(Qontell Unitrersttjj ffiihrarg Strata, Mem fork BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME OF THE FISKE ENDOWMENT FUND THE BEQUESTOF WILLARD FISKE LIBRARIAN OF THE UNIVERSITY 1868-1883 1905 Cornell University Library DA 740.C6O97 Old stone crosses of the vale of Clwyd a 3 1924 028 087 108 «,.„„i Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028087108 DEEWEN CHURCH AND CROSS Frontispiece - <♦ Old Stone Crosses OF THE VALE OF CLWYD AND NEIGHBOURING PARISHES, TOGETHER WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE ANCIENT MANNERS AND CUSTOMS AND LEGENDARY LORE CONNECTED WITH THE PARISHES. BY THE REV. ELIAS OWEN, M.A. ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS ON COPPER AND WOOD. PUBLISHERS: BERNARD QUARITCH, 15, Piccadilly, London, W. AND WOODALL, MINSHALL, & CO., Oswestry & Wrexham, * PREFACE Daring the spare moments of the last seven years the writer has been engaged in producing the following worft on the Old Stone Crosses of the Vale of Clwyd and neighbouring parishes, together with some account of the ancient manners and customs, and Legen- dary Lore connected with the District. Most of the crosses are now for the first time described and delineated, and additional matter has been collected about such crosses as had previously been described. The folk-lore has been collected from various sources, but chiefly from the aged inhabitants, many of whom are now no more, and in most cases, if not in every case, the writer has given his authority, or mentioned the name of his informant. This part of the work is capable of much enlargement. Wales teems with folk-lore of great variety and interest, and in the grave of the aged, as they one after the other leave us, is buried for ever some tale of by-gone days, which we could wish had been retained. The writer hopes that he has rescued a few of these tales from oblivion. There are expressions in Welsh that can only be understood by a knowledge of customs no longer practised. The word ymgroesi, to cross oneself, is still used, but the practice has ceased. Death in some parts of Wales is implied by words which mean "he is under his cross," from a custom once common of placing a wooden cross on the breast of the departed. Much curious information can be obtained by following the hint supplied by a word, and here and there in the following pages the reader will observe that many obsolete customs still live in the language of the people. This, however, is a source of information that has not been exhausted. In the course of the work, the writer has acknowledged the kind assistance received from several gentlemen, but he wishes specially to thank Mr. Beedham, of Kimbolton, for invaluable extracts taken from rare books in the British Museum and elsewhere, and also the Rev. Canon Thomas, Mr. Howel W. Lloyd, and the Rev. John Williams, Glanmor, for willing and valuable aid which he has re- ceived from them. Efenechtyd Rectory, January, 1886. ' ■'■■■■„ ;'■:■;::.' .!■■"■ r-j:-..: .... '.;''■,■: ■■ ■ "ST. ASAPH* /««JU' BRYN-EGLWYS. HEN I visited this Church in 1878, the steps and basement of the Churchyard Cross were in existence, but all other parts had disappeared ; visiting it later . I found that even these had been removed by the parish clerk without the knowledge of the Vicar. The present incumbent, the Rev. R. Owen, who was k ^_— - appointed to the living in 1870, and has restored his Church does not remember having seen any portion of the Cross standing From a sketch, taken in 1878, it appears that the stone which received the shaft was then entire, but it was not a massive one; apparently it was about nine inches thick and it rested upon a lar-e flat stone, about three feet square, which lay upon a slightly raised mound. The Cross stood nearly on a level with the west wall 4 Old Stone Crosses. of the Church, three paces to the south of it. The accompanying ground plan shows its position. Although so little can be said of this Cross, it is thought fit that, at least, some record of it should be preserved, particularly as the last vestige has been lately removed, and nothing now remains to mark the spot where the Cross once stood. i ffi u w. 1 Porch. ffi U ... 3 paces. ... □ Site of C ross. CERRIG-Y-DRUDION, HERE is no Cross in Cerrig-y-drudion churchyard, but built into the wall, above the east window, is a crucifix in a good state of preservation. It is cut out of a single stone, and apparently, for dimensions were not taken, it measures two feet by one foot. The figure of our Lord is in bold relief, but it lacks artistic merit, and the work seems to be a comparatively modern production ; probably it dates from the fifteenth century. It looks even worse than it otherwise would, because it is painted, the figure, white, and the ground, black. The feet, which are crossed, stand on a foot rest, and one nail penetrates both feet; the niche is sevenfoiled. (See Fig. page 6.) The Rector, the Rev. John Jones, informs me that the crucifix occupies the same position now as it did before the Church was restored by the late Rector, the Rev. Jenkin Jones, and he says : — " It was taken down in order to build the wall again, but replaced in the same position as before." This is the only church, to my knowledge, in the Diocese of St. Asaph, which has a crucifix in the church walls, but in the neighbouring Dio- cese of Bangor there are at least two churches similarly ornamented. The Rev. Edward Hughes, rector of Llanbedr, near Conway, gives the following description of the crucifixes just referred to. Speaking of that on his own church, Mr. Hughes writes :—" The crucifix, a rough sandstone in bold relief, is about 18 inches, or two feet, long, and about a foot, or less, wide. It is imbedded in the gable end, west side, too high up for measurement, under the bell, outside ; " and of the other crucifix he adds — " So is the one at Caerhun ; they are alike in shape and size. I have never been able to find any reference to them in either parish. There is no inscription on the crucifix, so far as I have been able to see." What Mr. Hughes says about the absence of tradition or other evidence respecting the crucifixes at Llanbedr and Caerhun is true with regard to that at Cerrig-y-drudion. Old Stone Crosses. -irr/r;r-—- There are several stones in Cerrig-y-drudion Church walls, on the east side, with letters or words on them, but no intelligible inscription could be made out of these letters. The word mulier appears on one of the stones. The Church has undergone restoration several times, and it is not improbable that the stones in the walls have been disarranged by the process, and, if this conjecture is correct, masons have separated stones which once adjoined each other, and possibly buried others in the walls, so that if these detached letters ever formed an inscription, or inscriptions, it would now be most difficult, if not altogether im- possible, to place the letters in con- secutive order. That there was a tendency to place memorials in the walls appears from the fact that former rectors have had their names engraven on stones in the north wall. On one stone is the following — GABRIEL : HVGHES : 1639. This is now in the vestry, but it occupies, I am told, the same position as it did before the restoration, the vestry being an addition to the Church, on that side. Another stone perpetuates the memory of — ROBERTVS WYNNE HVGVS PAROCHIAE RECTOR 1657. Underneath this inscrip- tion is a stone inscribed with a few letters. There is a tradition in the parish that the stones of which the Church is built were procured from a quarry in those parts, and so even was their surface that they were placed undressed in the walls. When I asked my informant whether the quarry still produced equally even- surfaced stones, I was answered in the negative. The appearance of the stones in the Church walls is quite consistent with the tradition. In the rectory ground is a portion of a seat, or of the old church screen, with these words on it : — deVs nobIs In trIbVLatIonIbVs aVXILIVM, in sixteenth century characters, and lying about, near the rectory, is a freestone window sill, belonging to the old church, with scorings on it. CILCEN. WEy BR$ HIS Cross is on the south side of the Church, and stands about sixteen paces from, and nearly opposite to, the Priest's door, which has been blocked up. The basement, a single flat stone, 2ft. 4m. square, has been much worn, apparently by sharpening implements upon it. Thus there is on one side an artificial groove, a quarter of an inch broad, three quarters of an inch deep, and ten inches long. Such an incision could only be made by arrows, pikes, or some similarly pointed objects. On another side of the pedestal are indentations made by whetting knives, or some oper- ation of the kind. The shaft is a tapering octagonal, 7ft. 7in. in height, squared by broaches at the base and top. It measures, at the base, 11 inches square ; at the top, 8 inches. The shaft is cracked in several places, and altogether it is greatly weather-worn and dilapidated. Portions of the side facing the Church have entirely dis- appeared. The remains of iron plugs and braces show that former generations were desirous that the Cross should be kept in- tact, but in our days no care is taken of it ; the iron bands have corroded, and with the exception of a few shreds they are no more, and consequently the upper part of the shaft, which these braces secured, is in imminent danger of falling. The Cross has departed considerably from the perpendicular, and looks as if it could not possibly weather the first storm which visits Cilcen. The head of the Cross is not in existence ; at least, it is not to be found in the. churchyard. The Cross belongs to the fourteenth century, 8 Old Stone Crosses. Many tombs surround this ancient stone, and it appears that in former days people were anxious to be buried under the shadow of the Churchyard Cross. Not only do the crowded graves in close proximity prove this, but there is documentary evidence to show that our forefathers were wishful to place their bodies under the protection of the Cross. The following extracts from original wills, communicated by the Rev. T. P. Wadley, Rector of Naunton Beauchamp, to my friend Mr. Beedharn, to whom I am indebted for them, show how common the desire was : — 1406. Sept. 24. Nicholas Conipaignonn ; to be buried in the cemetery of St. Warburgh, near the burial place of his late wife, "f crucem." Wills in the Bristol Orphan Book. 1508. Aug. 12. Thomas Byrkyn, fishmonger, of the city of Worcester, makes his will directing that he should be buried " in Seynt Mary Churche yarde bifore the crosse bytweene my two wiffe." Will proved 8 July 1511 : registered at Somerset House, Fetiplace, folio 2. The Cross in this case is that which formerly stood in the Cathedral churchyard at Worcester. Again Mr Wadley writes :— " In the will of Thomas Edmons of Ipsley, co. Warwick, made 17 Nov. 1540, proved 24 Sept. 1544, and registered at Worcester," it is stated : — My bodye to be buryed in the Churche yard of o r blessed lady of Ippesley nere the crosse there standinge. From original wills in the Bristol Orphan Book, it appears that William Lane, of the city of Worcester., mercer, who made his will in Latin, 16 May, 1506, desired to be buried in the Cathedral church- yard, "coram magna cruce ib'm." With one other quotation, culled from the Transactions of the Bristol and Gloucestershire Archaeological Society (vol. vi., p. 30), I will bring this subject to a close. It is there said that : — Robert Saundres of Bristol by Will dated 15th June 1391 desires to be buried in the cemetry of the church of Holy Cross Temple of Bristol opposite the southern cross there. From the last two extracts it would appear that more than one Cross existed in some churchyards. There is in Cilcen churchyard a sun-dial shaft, of freestone, octagonal, but brought to a square at the base and top by chiseled broaches. The socket had evidently been applied to some other use before it became the stand of the dial, for it has along one side a Cilcen. a Sun Dial. Priest's Door. □ Cross. moulding, whilst the other sides are rough and unornamented. The indicator has disappeared, and the shaft, through exposure to the weather, has been much worn, until, at present, it is almost round. The workmanship is apparently the same as that of the Cross. If cur- sorily noticed this dial shaft would be taken for that of a cross, but a care- ful inspection will show that it was nothing more than a sun-dial. On the north side of the Church, the windows have shutter hinges, and irons turning on pivots to secure the shutters to the walls. The Church is a short distance from the road, and is separated from it by a rather high stone wall, so that shut- ters were not wanted to protect the windows from stone-throwers ; but they point to the custom of ball-playing, in former days, on the north wall of the Church. This play would necessitate the protection of the windows by shutters, and this is the reason, as will be shown hereafter, why our country churches have shutters to the windows on their north side or west end. The churchyard, like many others in Wales, is nearly circular in form. There are two doors to this Church blocked up, viz., the Priest's Door, and that on the north side. In the belfry are a few beams with heads, or other engravings, on the corbels, similar to those in the roof of the Church, which roof, tradition says, was brought from Basingwerk Abbey. These unused beams have helped to support the tradition ; for it would appear that a greater quantity of roof beams were taken ffi U « D X u N-S-- Porch. I Site of Cross in Churchyard. Scale 1/24 of an inch to the foot. ,lo Old Stqne Crosses. ' ~ from the Abbey than was required for the Church, and the surplus wood was packed away in the tower. There is a tradition in the parish that the north aisle of the Church was burnt down in a Plygain, or early Christmas morning service, many years ago. This tradition is mentioned by B. Willis, who says : — " The North Isle of Kilcen Church (was) burnt down early in the morning upon Christmas Day in 1532, when the parishioners were assembled to pray and sing carols upon the occasion, in imita- tion of the High Mass, a custom peculiar to Wales, and which is called Plygain." (Willis's Survey of St. Asaph, vol. i., p. 230). The tradition is that the Church remained in ruins eighty years, but here tradition seems to be at fault. Willis places the catastrophe in the year 1532, and he founds his statement on the following stanza, which he observed on a brass plate in the Church, but which has since dis- appeared : — Mil pum cant, rhifant y rhai"n N6d addas, a deuddeg ar hugain, Oedd y Gair am FAB Mair fain Pan ddaeth y Golcaith i Gilcen. Willis's St. Asaph, vol. i., p. 230. These lines state that the conflagration took place in the year 1532. But the Church was not restored until the year 1746, as shown by a brass plate at present (1880) on the north wall. The inscription is as follows : — The North Isle of this Church was rebuilt in the year 1746 at the sole Expence of the Rev nd Richard Davies M.A. Rector of this parish Kilken. The Church consequently seems to have been in ruins, not for eighty, but for 214 years. It would appear from the decorated window at the east end of the north aisle that that wall was left standing after the fire. The Plygain or early Christmas morning service is still very popular in the parish. The word is perhips of doubtful origin. In a deriva- tive form it occurs in the Welsh Bible, thus : — " A'r boreu yn blygeiniol iawn." — S. Mark, ch. i., v. 35. Welsh hymn-writers also have used the word for very early in the morning. It is synonymous with cockcrowing. In Davies's Welsh and Latin Dictionary, published 1632, the reader is referred from Plygain to Pylgain, and there its Latin equivalent is galli cantus or cockcrowing. The word is pronounced differently in different parts Cilcen. 1 1 of Wales ; in North Wales it is usually Plygan, but in some parts, such as Denbighshire, it becomes Plygen. It approaches the full Plygain in Carnarvonshire ; but even there the i is not invariably distinctly sounded. In Cardiganshire it is pronounced, Pulgan, or Pylgan, and this will account for the transposition of the letters / and y by Dr. Davies, and at the same time throw light upon the derivation. Dr. Owen Pughe, as is his custom, gives the word as pure Welsh, the component parts being, according to him : Ply, that is " flexible or tender," and cain, "bright," and thus Plygain is "the return of light." This derivation is opposed to the popular etymology of the word, which makes Plygan or Pylgan mean " the crowing of the cock." This is also the meaning of the word given by Pennant. Mr. Trevor Parkins, in a very interesting contribution to The Cheshire Sheaf (vol. ii., p. 208) on the Plygan, writes : — The etymology of the word is perhaps doubtful. Plygain is explained by Dr. Owen Pughe as a purely Welsh word, signifying " the return of light ; " but the popular derivation of it from Pulli cantus, " the crowing of the cock," appears to be adopted by the best authorities. It would be satisfactory to ascertain whether this mediaeval Latin term, Pulli cantus, was used generally, or only by the inhabitants of Wales, as a substitute for the well-known classical expression which denoted cock-crowing in the days of Horace : — " Agricolam laudat juris legumque peritus, Sub galli cantum consult or ubi ostia pulsat." Horace, Sat. I., lines 9-10. So much on the derivation of the word. Let me now proceed to describe the service. On Christmas morn, tradition says, the church bell was rung in Cilcen from five to six o'clock, at which latter hour the service began. In other parishes the hour was four. The service usually consisted of a selection of appropriate portions of the Prayer Book, with or without a brief admonitory address by the clergyman, and then the carol-singing began. Any one who desired to sing was at liberty to do so. Sometimes a party sang in chorus, and sometimes a single voice was heard, and this service of song was continued until the dawn of day, when the Benediction was pronounced, and the congre- gation separated. Those who took part in the carol-singing supplied themselves with their own home-made candles, but the church authorities partially lit up the church for the occasion. As there were formerly no evening services in the churches, and the gosper or vespers began at three o'clock in the B 12 Old Stone Crosses. afternoon, when no lights were required, it was necessary that the churchwardens should provide candles and candlesticks for the Plygan on Christmas morn. This they did by procuring lumps of soft clay into which candles were stuck ; and these extemporized candle- holders were arranged along the walls, or placed on ledges in the church. The Rector of Llanfihangel, Montgomeryshire, the Rev. E. Evans, drew my attention to several of these candlesticks which he had found in his church, and which he preserved as curiosities ; and so did the Rev. D. Evans, Vicar of Abergele, to some which he had dis- covered at the restoration of Abergele Church, stowed away in various places. These churches are far apart, and the discovery of these candlesticks shows how commonly clay, in days gone by, took the place of stick, as a candle holder. With such imperfect means of lighting churches, we are surprised, not that Cilcen Church was burnt down, but that conflagrations were not more common. Old people tell us that great disorder prevailed in the Plygan, and this, they say, was caused by drunken men who frequented the service after a night's revelry. It was, it appears, a common practice for men to sit up all night drinking, and then to proceed in a state of in- toxication to the church. The riotous conduct of inebriates brought about the discontinuance of the Plygan in many places. Two stories, which I will here relate, show what disorder sometimes prevailed in these meetings. The Rev. E. Jones, Vicar of Cilcen, informed me that he was told by old Richard Roberts, Tanllan, Treuddyn, now dead, of an event which took place at a Plygan in Hope Church. R. Roberts was then a young man, and with every- body else he went to the Plygan. In church he happened to stand behind a young man with a bushy head of red hair. A companion suggested that it would be rare fun to set the head of red hair on fire. Roberts thought so too, and acting upon the impulse of the moment, placed his candle under the young man's hair, and in an instant it was all in a blaze. Recounting this event in old age to Mr. Jones, Roberts, in tones of self-reproach, said — " I do not know what possessed me to do such a thing." The next story was told me by the Rev. D. James, Rector of Garthbeibio, Montgomeryshire. At a Plygan in Garthbeibio Church, a man in drink threw from the west end gallery a rotten turnip at the head of the Rev. G. Howell, who was the officiating minister. Mr. Howell marked the man, and when the service was over walked Ciicen. 13 down the aisle of the church, the people standing the while, as was then the custom ; but instead of leaving the building he locked the door, and proceeded to the singing loft, where he broke his walking stick across the back of the culprit. This Christmas morning service was not confined to Wales. It was also common along the borders. In Philip Henry's Diary, lately- published, and edited by the Rev. M. H. Lee, is the following entry : — 1661. Dec. 25. Service at Worthenb. afore-day, an old custome, the ground of it I knowe not ; the Christians in time of persecution had their hymnos antelucanos. Tertull. Sermon at 10 a clock. Text, Zech. 13. 1. Philip Henry's Diary, p. 102. It would seem from this entry that the afore-day service was one of song, as it was in Wales proper, and the sermon was at ten o'clock. Mr, Trevor Parkins, in his article already referred to, writes : — I find several notices of it (the Plygan) in the Churchwardens' accounts at Gresford, a parish that lies upon the borders, and where Welsh customs might be expected to pass away. Thus, to quote an instance, Edward Partyn, who was Churchwarden in 1739, states in his account that he had " Paid for candles for ye Plagan 0:2: o" — and (adds Mr. Parkins) there is reason to believe that the practice lingered on in this semi-English district down to the commencement of the present century. Pennant's description of the Plygan, as it was held in his days, that is, a hundred years ago, is so appropriate, that I will conclude my account of the service with his words : — Upon Christmas-day, about three o'clock in the morning, most of the parishioners assembled in Church, and after prayers and a sermon, con- tinued there singing psalms and hymns with great devotion till broad day ; and if, through age and infirmity, any are disabled from attending, they never fail having prayers at home, and carols on our Saviour's nativity. The former part of the custom is still preserved ; but too often perverted into intemperance. This act of devotion is called Plygan, or the Crowing of the Cock. It has been a general belief among the superstitious, that instantly, " at his warning, Whether in sea or fire, in earth or air, Th' extravagant and erring spirit hies To his confine." But during the holy season, the cock was supposed to exert his power throughout the night ; from which, undoubtedly, originated the Welsh word Plygan, as applied to this custom. Tour in Wales, vol. ii., p.. 353, ed. 1784. 14 Old Stone Crosses. GOSPER CANWYLLAU OR CANDLE VESPERS. As Christmas day began with an early service, so it ended with a late service, which was popularly called in Welsh — Gosper can- wyllau, or Candle Vespers. It was so named from the fact that it was the only service in the year in which candles were used at Vespers or evening prayer. The usual hour for vespers in Wales, as I have said, was three o'clock in the afternoon, but on Christmas day it was changed from three to six, and hence the necessity for candles ; hence also the name applied to this service, viz., Gosper canwyllau, gosper being a corruption of the word vespe/, and canwyllau being the Welsh word for candles. There are, even now, a few churches in Wales which have no night services. In these churches the evening service begins in winter at three o'clock, and in summer at six o'clock. In the Gosper canwyllau, as in the Plygan, many contrivances were resorted to for illuminating the church. The service in the Gosper canwyllau was the ordinary evening prayer, with or without a sermon, but carols were always sung on Christmas evening. The feature of the service was the innumerable candles used on the occasion. Every one provided himself or herself with a candle, and lights were stuck on the ends of the seats, on the window sills, and in other available places, by the churchwardens, so that this service was rightly called Candle Vespers. The Rev. Canon Wynne Edwards remembers the service being held in Meifod Church, and other living clergymen in other parts of Wales have conducted it before evening services at six o'clock had become general. MAES-Y-GROES CROSS. One of the townships in Cilcen parish is called Maes-y-groes, the field of the cross, and in this township is an old house, evidently at one time a superior kind of abode, and it, also, is called Maes-y-groes. This house is about a mile from the Loggerheads Inn, and stands on the right-hand side of the road or lane connecting Cilcen with the Mold and Ruthin road. Maes-y-groes farm yard abuts upon the lane, and it has two entrances, one from the lane, and the other from the direction of the house ; on the right-hand gatepost of this latter entrance is a cross deeply cut into the stone post. (See figure.) Cilcen. i5 The stone on which the cross is, is 4ft. 8in. high, ift. broad at the base, and 8in. thick. It is limestone, as are all the gate posts in the neighbourhood. The cross, which is a small Latin cross, is near the top of the stone, the arms measure 2 inches each, whilst the lower limb is 5 inches long. A little more than a foot below the cross is the date 1795, cut length- wise into the stone. These figures, ap- parently, are more modern |han the cross. Immediately below the date* is a figure re- sembling a shovel with a short handle, and in this figure near its extremity is incised a semi-circle, or rather a semi-ellipse, with a portion of its diameter proceeding from left to right, and about the centre of this semi- ellipse is a single dot. I am informed by Mr. Davies, the school- master at Llanferres,the parish which adjoins Cilcen, that there is an old road, one of the oldest in the district, leading from the ancient mansion of Maes-y-groes to the river Alun, and that some people say that many years ago an army crossed the river Alun, just below the house, on their way to fight the Saxons at Mold or Chester, and that the name Maes-y-groes was ever afterwards given to the spot, because it was — " Y mats lie y darfufiddynt groesi," i.e., because it was "the field where they crossed over," and that in after years the inhabitants erected this pillar, with a cross on it, to com- memorate this event. Such is the tradition, if tradition it may be called, for it appears more like an attempt to account for a name than anything else. There is another farm called Maes-y-groes close to Cilcen village, and in various parts of Wales there are farms bearing this name with no rivers nor extant crosses in their vicinity. It may be, of course, that there is a germ of truth in the tradition, and that the pillar was erected to denote the spot where a battle was fought, or a hero died. 'l'j£/ yS/zevT CORWEN. ENNANT, in his Tour infflales, speaking of Corwen, mentions this Cross : — " A most singular cross in the churchyard merits attention : the shaft is let into a flat stone, and that again is supported by four or five rude stones, as if the whole had been formed in imitation of, and in veneration of, the sacred Cromlech of very early time." The flat stone noticed by Pennant is still in existence, but the "four or five rude stones," upon which the basement stood, have disappeared. The stone now rests on the ground. The Cross is on the west side of the church, and, in the absence of records and traditions, it would be difficult to ascertain whether its present was its original position. Churchyard crosses are generally found on the south side of the church, but the probability is that this Cross occupies the same spot as in Pennant's time, though the disappearance of the supporting stones could be better accounted for if we supposed that it had been removed. ■ The stone basement in which the shaft is placed is elliptical in form, with transverse and conjugate diameters measuring respectively sixty-four and sixty inches ; it is twelve inches or so thick, is of a slaty nature, and might have been procured in the neighbourhood. The crevices of the circular hole in which the shaft is fixed are filled up with' stones, and in this way the shaft is made to fit closely into the pedestal. There are seven peculiar artificial depressions along the surface of the pedestal, strongly resembling the cup-markings which are found occasionally on the capstones of cromlechau, etc. They are irregularly arranged : on the north side there are three, almost in a line ; and on other parts of the stone there are four of these marks. They differ somewhat from each other in size and shape, but they are for the most part circular, though one is more of an oblong than a circle. They vary also in depth, one being two and CAPITAL TOP. TOP OF SHAFT. BAKE OF SHAFT. CORWEN. WOODALL.MINSHALL X C?. UTHOS., OSWESTRY. Corwen. 17 a half inches deep, while the others are shallow. The largest is three inches in diameter ; the others are not so broad. It is only lately that the attention of antiquaries has been called to these strange markings, and those on Corwen Cross have hitherto been entirely overlooked. The accompanying drawing shows the position of the cups. The Rev. E. L. Barnwell, in a paper on " Marked Stones in Wales," published in the Archosologia Cambrensis (3rd series, No. L., pp. 150-156), alludes to the prevalence of these cup-shaped hollows, and states that they " are found to exist from the extreme south of England to the north of Scotland." Mr. Barnwell says that at the time he wrote (1867) there were only two known instances in Wales of stones thus marked, viz., Clynnog Cromlech, and a small stone in a field in Llanbedr parish, near Harlech. A view of the top slab of Clynnog Cromlech is given by Mr. Barnwell, and it "is covered with small artificial hollows, apparently placed without any attempt at order." I quote from Mr. Barnwell's paper, and this gentleman, who is so well able to offer an opinion, says there is little doubt that they were cut at a very early period. It is singular that these markings should be found along the basement of Corwen Cross, and also on the capstone of a Carnarvonshire cromlech. It is difficult to state posi- tively that the depressions on the Corwen stone are ancient, but, when cleared out, they certainly appeared to be so, and in character with the rude side dressings of the stone itself. In. connection with these markings it is well to bear in mind what Pennant says about the cromlech-like form of the Cross in his days. It is not only in the British isles that these . cup-markings are found ; they have been discovered in various parts of the world. In an article by Mr. C. W. Dymond on " Cup-markings on Burley Moor," in Yorkshire, published in the Journal of the British Archczo- logical Association (Dec. 31, 1880, vol. xxxvi., pt. iv., pp. 413-417), the widespread use in ancient times of cup-markings and such devices is clearly shown. Mr. Dymond writes: — "Ornaments similar to the cup- markings and rings are seen on vases from Dali, Cyprus . . . cup- and-ring-like ornaments are almost the only ones used in the decora- tion of glass and stone whorl-shaped beads found in Cyprus." . . " Among the relics found at Hissarlik by Dr. Schlieman was a pot- lid, ornamented as it were with cup-like indentations." {Troy, pp. 310-311.) "Among the objects found by Dr. Keller in lake- 1 8 Old Stone Crosses. dwellings were three, stones, with cups cut in their surfaces, some of them connected by grooves." These quotations carry us back far into pre-historic times to search for the origin and use of these peculiar marks. In the British islands we have them, not on manu- factured articles, but, probably in their more primitive form, on stones, in wild unfrequented districts ; and, it may be, in remote ages, these cup-marks were associated with religious observances. Before leaving this subject, it maybe stated that the late Professor Sir J. Y. Simpson published an excellent treatise on Cup and Ring Markings, which, if not the first, was one of the first books of the kind ever published. Since the foregoing notes were written, I have had the pleasure of perusing a most interesting paper entitled, " Notes on some un- described Stones with Cup-markings in Scotland," by J. Romilly Allen, with a table showing the geographical distribution of cup-marked stones, from which I learn that there are : — In Scotland ... ... ... 204 stones with cup-marks on them. In England and Wales... ... 102 ,, „ „ (Wales itself has only 2 given) In Ireland ... ... ... 42 „ „ „ In France ... ... ... 21 „ „ „ In Switzerland ... ... ... 32 ,, „ „ In Scandinavia (including Den- mark) 42 „ „ „ All these stones are ancient remains of by-gone days, but in the same volume of the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, in which Mr. Romilly Allen's paper appears (1881-82, pp. 302-401), is another on the same subject, giving a list of cup-marked stones in churchyards, and one of these stones has on it an inscription dated 1722 a.d. The stones in graveyards in Scotland with these marks on them are generally dressed stones, and are oblong in shape ; so that we have in the northern part of the kingdom a continuation of these peculiar marks from remote to modern times. If an inference can he drawn from the continuance of these markings on modern grave- stones from the times when the cromlech served the same purpose, then these peculiar depressions have perhaps a hidden meaning con- necting them with the ancient dead. The shaft of Corwen Cross is quadrangular, with angles formed into rectangular mouldings. Its dimensions are : — Height, 7ft. 1 Jin. ; base ift. square ; top, underneath capital, ioin. by 8in. ; capital, io£in. high by nin. broad. From these measurements it will be seen Corwen. 19 u u -»- 6 paces that the stone is slightly narrower at the top than the base. It will also be observed from the sketch, that, although the shaft tapers throughout its entire length, it loses its gradient, and also its symmetry, owing to a fault in the stone, at about a third of its length from the base. The capi- tal, which is part of the shaft, both being one stone, slightly projects from the shaft, and measures, at the top, 11 in. by 8 in. ; into it is cut a socket, measuring 6in. by 4^in. on the surface, and 6 in. deep. This socket received the head-stone, which has disappeared. The capital resembles a shield, being circular at the bottom and rect- angular at the top ; it has on the east side interlaced rope- like ornamentation, which has, through age, become much de- faced. When the author of Lapidarium Wallice visited the Cross in 1835, he could not find the octagonal capstone depicted in Gough's Camde% as surmounting the shaft. On the east side of the shaft, 12J inches below the capital, is a cross in relief, \o\ inches long, and 3 inches broad from arm to arm. It has an incised line running crossways through the limbs. This cross resembles a short sword or dagger, and locally it is connected, in some way or other, with Owain Glyndwr. When the Church was being restored, an ancient sword was found, and the person who told me* of the discovery spoke of the sword confidently enough as having belonged to Glyndwr. At present, the Cross declines slightly, but there is no immediate danger of its falling. It is a hard grit stone, foreign to that part of the country, and may have been procured from the neighbourhood of Ruabon. The paring away of the angles, and the running up of a groove each side, conceals the bareness of the stone, and, simple though this contrivance is, it has a very pleasing effect. c PLAN Showing position of Churchyard Cross. Cross. 20 Old Stone Crosses. The Cross has certain Norman characteristics, and in some details resembles the old cross by Valle Crucis Abbey. It probably belongs to the Norman period. CROSS ON STONE BUILT INTO CHURCH WALL. This stone, which now forms the lintel to the Priest's Door, is not in its original position, and it has been cracked by the weight of the superincumbent wall. The lower part of the stone disappears in the wall, so that its entire length cannot be ascertained. The cross, which is incised, is near the top of the stone. It measures in length 22 inches ; the upper limb is 5 inches long and 1^ inches broad ; the cross limbs measure, from extremity to extremity, 10J inches, and their breadth is about the same as that of the upper limb. The three upper limbs are some- what dilated, whilst the lower one is pointed, and it deviates from the straight line for about the last 5 inches of its length. Local tradition speaks of this cross as being the impression of Owain Glyndwr's dagger. It says that Glyndwr hurled the dagger from the summit of the conical hill, or rock, which stands on the south side of the Church and overlooks the town, with such force, that it made a deep indentation in the stone it came in contact with. The distance of the rock from the Church, instead of indicating the impro- bability of the tale, has only added lustre to the achievement. The following extract from the Rev. D. R. Thomas's History of the Diocese of St. Asaph accounts for this cross in a more rational way : — The legend of its (the Church's) original foundation, which states that all attempts to build the Church in any other spot than where stood the " Carreg y Big yn y fach rewlyd," i.e., " The pointed stone in the icy nook," were frustrated by the influence of certain adverse powers, appears also to supply the clue to the name, viz., Corfaen, " the enclosure or choir of the stone," rather than Corwen, " the white choir or church." This stone is now built into the north porch, but probably marked at first one of the mission stations in the district ; another of which is indicated by the stone Cor wen. 21 marked with a cross, which now forms the lintel of the priest's door on the south side of the chancel, and is commonly shown as the impress of Owain Glyndwr's dagger ; and which, from its association with his name, may very likely have been transferred hither from " Bryn y Groes" in Carrog Issa, on his estate. The tradition respecting the cross being the impression of a dagger is probably derived from some historic event, which, in the lapse of time, has passed from memory, and is now presented in a mythical form. The Birmingham antiquary, Hutton, in his Remarks upon North Wales (pub. 1803), mentions what he saw at Corwen, and alludes to the cross on the stone above the Priest's Door : — Owain (Glyndwr) usually attended divine service at Corwen Church, where I was shown a doorway now made up through which he entered to his pew in the chancel. Upon one of the stones is cut, half an inch deep, the figure of a dagger, and my guide told me, with a face more serious than my own, that upon the Berwyn mountain, behind the Church, was a place called Glyndwr's seat, from which he threw his dagger, and made the im- pression upon the stone. If this had happened in our day, the whole bench of bishops would have united in pronouncing him Jacobin. Exclusive of the improbability of the tale, my friend forgot that it refutes itself, for the mark of the dagger is upon the very door-way through which Owain passed, which probably was not built up in his day. I climbed the mountain to what is called Owain's seat, among the rocks, and concluded he must have been more agreeably employed than in throwing his dagger, for the prospect is most charming. — Remarks on North Wales, pp. 50, 51. PORTION OF ORNAMENTAL STONE. A broken piece of stone, with ribbon ornamentation on it, was picked up by Mrs. Ab Ithel Williams, of the College, Corwen, in the churchyard. At first sight, this remnant might be supposed to have been a portion of the missing head-stone of the Churchyard Cross, for the workmanship, and the character of the stone, are identical; but from its size and design it would rather seem to have belonged either to a sepulchral slab, or to some other cross, rather than to the one at present in the churchyard. The accompanying sketch, which is not drawn according to scale, shows the kind of engraving with which the stone is ornamented. 2$ Old Stone Crosses. PRAYING OVER THE DEAD. In Corwen churchyard there are gravestones of a very peculiar form, evidently pointing to the old custom of praying for or over the dead. They are only a few inches above the ground, placed at the head and foot of the grave, with holes for the knees of those who pray. The accompanying _ __ sketches shew the shape of | \_J \_J I these stones. It will be ob- I I served from the drawings that there are knee-rests at both ends ot the grave. This is not always the rule; occasionally only one stone has such conveniences, as is the case in Llangar, and when this is so, it is the headstone. Between the two stones there is usually a flat slab with the initials of the dead engraven upon it, and the date of the death. But there are some entirely devoid of letters and figures, and where these appear they are rudely executed. One of the stones in Corwen churchyard bears the date 1771 ; another, 1810 ; from which it would seem at first that the custom of praying at the tomb continued in Corwen to the year 1810 : but the rustic stone-cutter in the beginning of this century may have merely copied the form of older stones, without knowing the meaning of their peculiar shape. In a neighbouring parish, Llansantffraid, there are numbers of grave- stones like these in Corwen churchyard, and Mr. Roberts, the school- master, informed me of a tradition, that in former years, before the Church Service began, the relatives of the dead were in the habit of kneeling at the grave for prayer, and that the grave-stones were formed as described so as to allow them to do so without inconvenience or risk in rainy weather. I have noticed similar stones in several church- yards in the neighbourhood of Corwen : Llangar old churchyard contains several ; so does Gwyddelwern. These memorials are touchingly simple in their construction. They could be formed by a relation, or a friend, without the aid of a stone-cutter. Apparently one grave contains a family. Thus, in Llansantffraid churchyard a flat stone has on it — T. I. 1780 E. H. 1780 H. D. 1786 Corwen. 23 And underneath these comes a modern inscription to the memory of persons lately interred. Another gives the initials and age of the departed : — S. K. 60. 1764 Other dates in Llansantffraid were 1769 and 1783 ; and the following are the dimensions of one of the stones there : — Height, 8in. ; knee- rests, 6in. apart, 6in. broad, and 3m. deep. The parish clerk of Llansantffraid corroborated the schoolmaster's remark as to the use of these stones, and he also said that he had used many similar knee-stones in building the chancel of the church, and taken numbers up to make room for stones of more modern design. The following quotation from Pennant throws considerable light on this matter. Speaking of the religious customs of the Welsh, Pennant says : — In some places it was customary for the friends of the dead to kneel, and say the Lord's Prayer over the grave for several Sundays after the inter- ment, and then to dress the grave with flowers. — Vol. ii., p. 353. This custom most likely lingered long in secluded districts, which held but little intercourse with the outer world, and the probability is that even so late as the beginning of the present century people prayed for or over their dead in and about Corwen. CWM LTHOUGH Cwm Church is an ancient structure, there is no vestige of a cross in the churchyard ; but, built into the wall of the vicarage orchard, in a place where it could not easily be seen, is a portion of a mutilated stone crucifix. The Vicar, the Rev. J. Morris, could give no information about this Cross ; all he could say was that he had discovered it in the wall, and left it there. The pro- bability is that it was placed in the wall for preservation by a former vicar, who found it lying about the Church premises. It stands on the / left-hand side of the entrance , to the orchard, and faces the-i public road ; but evergreens \ ^fc*--^. overgrowthe wall, and almost hide the figure from view. Upon referring to the illus- tration, it will be seen that the Cross was wantonly dis- figured. The head and arms have been knocked off, but the remaining portion of the body is in good preservation, and it is a well-executed piece of workmanship. The stem of the Cwm. 25 crucifix, which is all that now exists, consists of an oblong slab, measuring 15 inches by 8 inches, and its thickness is 3 inches or thereabouts. On this stone is carved in relief a figure of our Lord. It is so well preserved that it is difficult to believe it has always been exposed to the weather. Underneath the left arm is an iron plug secured by lead, apparently placed there as a prop ; the section of the other arm is not exposed to view, and therefore it could not be ascertained whether there was a similar plug on that side. DENBIGH. OLD HIGH CROSS. ENBIGH Old High Cross formerly stood in the square at the top of the town, in the place now occupied by a lamp-post, which is called locally the High Cross, but was removed some forty or fifty years ago, when the Town Hall was built, to the Bowling Green, adjoining the old castle walls. There it rests safely on a mound in a corner of the grounds. The writer was informed by the keeper of the Bowling Green, who remembers the Cross in the square, that it was removed bodily, and that even the stones in the steps occupy •now pretty nearly the same relative position as before. The Cross, therefore, is just as it used to be. Two steps lead to the pedestal or socket of the Cross. They measure respectively, in breadth, 6 feet and 4 feet; in height, 7 inches and 6 inches. The stones composing the steps are loosely put together, nor do they look old or worn. The socket is a large block of free-stone, measuring 28^ inches square, and ig inches high ; its upper surface and angles are much worn. The shaft, a tapering octagonal, squared at the base, and fixed with lead into the socket, consists of two stones. The lower, or more ancient part, is 59 inches long ; the upper, or modern addition, measures 27 inches; and it is sur- mounted by a ball 7 inches or so in diameter. The total height from the ground to the top of the ball is 12 feet 5 inches. There is a date, 1760, cut into the modern part of the shaft, and most probably this points to the time when this portion was erected. (Fig. I.) It is not unlikely that it took the place of a cross head, Fig. I. DENBIGH. HIGH CROSS. WOODALL.MINSHALL &C°. LITHOS., OSWESTRY Denbigh. 27 which was then removed from the High Cross, properly so called, to make room for a lamp. The Cross itself belongs to the fifteenth century, but it might have superseded a previous market cross. Latterly, and up to the time of its removal to the Bowling Green, this interesting monument was utilized as a lamp post, and the marks of the iron bands which secured the lamp to the pillar are distinctly seen, as will be observed upon referring to the accom- panying sketch. Denbigh High Cross in years gone by was the centre of markets and fairs. Buyers and sellers congregated around it, and stalls of the same kind always occupied the same spots. Next to the Cross stood the farmers with their wheat, further removed were the stocking and yarn vendors, and hat-sellers, &c. Three sides of the Cross itself were taken possession of by butchers. The third was unoccupied, as it was required for the purpose of trimming the lamp and replenishing it with oil. The butchers had a kind of shutter- awning fastened to the shaft of the Cross, to protect the meat from the weather ; and when the market was over the shutters were let down and secured by padlocks to the Cross. Several holes plugged with lead, an iron staple, and other remaining marks, indicate the use that was made of the Cross. The shaft is free-stone, and it is grooved on all sides ; the abrasions, which are deep, and must have endangered the safety of the Cross, were made by sharpening knives on the stone. After the erection of the new hall the market was transferred from the street to the building close by. THE ORIGIN OF MARKET CROSSES. The fact that the Denbigh Cross was the centre of fairs, points to its origin. In years long gone by, markets were held in churchyards, and even in the churches. This perhaps shocks our sense of pro- priety ; but in the country, six hundred years ago, the church and churchyard were, in most parishes, the only public place of resort. The people of Wales, as we learn from Giraldus Cambrensis, were not devoid of reverence, but, on the contrary, they showed greater respect than other nations to churches, crosses, ecclesiastical persons, etc. ; yet they saw nothing wrong in transacting ordinary business on con- secrated ground ; indeed, it may have been that they chose the consecrated ground, intending thus to place even their ordinary p 28 Old Stone Crosses. transactions, as between man and man, under the protection of the Church and the restriction of religious obligations. Attempts, however, were made in very early times by the Church authorities to put down churchyard fairs and games. Markets and fairs were ultimately removed from churchyards to towns and other places. Upon the removal of fairs, market crosses were erected in the place where markets were held, and the fairs were opened by the priest, and in this way these proceedings received the sanctions of religion just as they did in consecrated ground. Many a market cross in Wales owes its origin to this cause ; and these crosses were erected to encourage honesty. Milner, in his History of Winchester, says : — " The general intent of market crosses was to incite public homage to the religion of Christ crucified, and to inspire men with a sense of morality and piety amidst the ordinary transactions of life" (see Rimmer's Ancient Stone Crosses of England, pp. 8, 9) ; and I take the following extract from Brady's Clavis Calendaria (3rd ed., London, 1815, vol. i., p. 359) : — " Every town had its cross, at which engage- ments, whether of a religious or worldly interest, were entered into." Rimmer further states that " Market crosses originated in towns where there were monastic establishments, and the Order sent a monk, or friar, on market days to preach to the assembled market people" [Ancient Stone Crosses, etc., p. 8). And again, he says: — " These relics also gave the religious house a central point to collect the tolls paid by farmers and dealers in country produce for the privilege of selling within the limits of the town ; and until very lately this same tax was held by certain families in England, who exacted a toll from each head of cattle that was brought into the market-town for sale ; indeed, it probably exists in some remote country places at the present time" (p. 9). It may here be said, in corroboration of Mr. Rimmer's remark, that there was a house of Carmelites, or White Friars, at the bottom of the hill on which Denbigh is built, and tolls for cattle entering fairs are still collected in many towns in Wales, but these tolls are not now, if they once were, the property of the Church. That a connec- tion probably did exist between the High Cross and the clergy of Denbigh we learn from the municipal documents. From these papers, which are still extant, the following is taken : — A toll of oatmeal sold within the borough was given the officiating clergyman for reading prayers before the opening of the market. — Williams's Ancient and Modern Denbigh, pp. 138, 283. Denbigh. 29 We may, therefore, infer that the clergy of Denbigh, from olden times, opened the fairs, and this would naturally be done by them from the Cross, the centre of the market. If the Market Cross at Denbigh was erected by the Carmelites, it dates from the latter part of the thirteenth century ; but it probably belongs to a later period, most likely to the latter part of the fifteenth or beginning of the sixteenth century. SUNDAY FAIRS. Fairs were formerly held on Sundays and holy days, and even as late as 1571 the only restraint placed upon them was to stop pro- ceedings during divine service. Archbishop Grindal thus alludes to this matter : — That in fairs and common markets upon the Sundays, there be no shewing of any wares, before all the morning service and the sermon (if there be any) be done. — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 269. However, in the fourteenth century, some doubts of the propriety of holding fairs on Sunday appear to have taken possession of the minds of the inhabitants of Wrexham. In that year the steeple of their church was burnt down on a Sunday, and the calamity led to the changing of the fair from Sunday to Thursday. Browne Willis mentions this fact. He writes : — In some old accounts I have seen of this town in the Welsh Chronicles, the steeple is said to have been cast down on November 25th, 1330, and the market changed next year, anno 1331, from Sunday to Thursday, as it now continues. Fairs on Sunday ceased throughout Wales in the beginning of the present century. CYFLOG Y GROES, OR THE WAGE OF THE CROSS. In days gone* by, and the custom has not altogether ceased, it was usual for men who wished to be hired for harvest work, to congregate about the High Cross at Denbigh very early in the morning of week days, and on Sunday in the afternoon, and there the farmers went to engage them. The wages given at the Cross was the standard or market price of labour. It was called Cyflog y Groes, or, the wages agreed upon at the Cross. The wages in the neighbourhood were regulated by that given at the Cross. Most towns had their cross 3© Old Stone Crosses. wage ; but when treating of Rhuddlan Cross, which was a famous labour cross, I shall more particularly enter into this subject. I will only add of Denbigh Cross that engagements made there were bind- ing for one day only, and consequently during harvest time there was a daily labour market in this town. Dr. Johnson, who visited Denbigh, September 4th (Sunday), 1774, notices in his journal the men standing to be hired : — We dined with Mr. Myddelton, the clergyman, at Denbigh, where I saw the harvestmen very decently dressed, after the afternoon service, standing to be hired. — On other days, they stand at about four in the morning — they are hired from day to day. — A Journey into North Wales (Duppa's edition), pp. 123-4. These engagements made at the Cross were considered strictly binding on all parties concerned. PROCLAMATIONS MADE AT THE MARKET CROSS. When I paid a visit to Denbigh I found the High Cross, so called, surrounded by a number of loiterers, come together to discuss or hear news. In former days this was the very spot where people congregated to hear or relate the current news of the times. The poor people whom I saw were only perpetuating a custom once fashionable and necessary. It was at the Cross that announcements of importance were made ; and also proclamations of all kinds, of a private or public nature. Advantage was taken of the concourse of people assembled on market days to publish there matters of im- portance, and we find parliamentary instructions given, that certain notices, such as contemplated marriages, should be given on market days at the town or market cross. From very ancient times, up almost to our own days, legal, and civil, and private proclamations were made at the cross. I will give a few instances of these : — Walter Frompton of Bristol by his Will dated 8th December, 1388, gives certain property to his wife Isabel for her life, on conditions that she carefully preserves all the said possessions ; but if she should marry again, or live unchastely, they are to be sold, after three proclamations at the High Cross, " cum tuba, et plus offerenti ;" the money thereby raised to be divided into four equal parts and appropriated to certain specified pious and charitable uses. A summary of the will of Frompton is given in vol. vi., p. 19, of the Transactions of the Bristol and Gloucestershire Archmological Society. Denbigh. 3 1 In the times of the Commonwealth banns of marriage were pub- lished at market crosses, and people were there united in marriage by justices of the peace. In the parish register of Kislingbury, Northamptonshire, is this entry : — William Nicholles and Cassandra Cooke wear published in a contract of marriage at three markitt daies at the cross of Northampton the 8th and the 15th and the 22nd dayes of March 1655 and were married the 23rd daye. — Elliott's Parish Registers of Northampton (printed privately), p. 19. In the Cheshire Sheaf, which is a reprint of antiquarian notes published in the Chester Courant, there are given instances of civil marriages celebrated in the city of Chester. Mr. Hughes, the able editor of the Sheaf, found the following in the parish registers of Chester (St. Oswald's) : — Richard Hughes of Newton, in ye countie of Chest'r, smith, and Jane Worrall of Shurlach, in ye same countie, Widdow, vpon the 20th day of Sept 1654 tendared unto the Wor'll William Ince, Ald'rm' & Justice of peace within the Cittie of Chest'r, a sertiflcate subscribed by Tho : Humphreys, Notarie Publiq', & Parish Regist'r of Peters in Chest'r afforesaid, intimating that an Intenc'on of there Mariage was published in the Market place within the said parish of Peters three market days in three severall weekes ; whereupon hee p'mitted them to solem'ize there said Mariage, according to ye forme proscribed in an Act of Parliam't ; which was p'formed in ye p'sence of Hugh Rutter, William Milington, John Hughs, Arabella Dewsbury, witnesses p'sent at ye s'd Mariage. — Vol. ii., pp. 229-30. The market cross is not mentioned here ; " market place" stands in its stead ; but in an entry made in the Register for Holy Trinity parish it appears . . . . " published, at the Market Cross in Chester." This latter marriage was celebrated June 22nd, 1654. Without further burdening my description with quotations, I bring these remarks on proclamations at crosses to an end. I might have added many extracts to those already given, but sufficient have been used to show what important announcements were made at market crosses. One other kind of business which was sometimes transacted at such crosses, I must mention : the dispensing of justice. In Stow's Survey of London, edited by Strype (London, 1720, folio), is this entry : — In the high street, near unto the strand, sometime stood a cross of stone, against the Bishop of Coventry, or Chester his house, whereof I 32 Old Stone Crosses. read, that in the year 1294, and divers other times, the Justices Itinerant sate without London, at the stone cross overagainst the Bishop of Coventry's House, and sometimes they sate in the Bishop's House, which was by the strand. — Book iv., p. 105. Newspapers, market halls, and other products of later days, have brought to an end the primitive customs associated with market and other crosses. THE ABBEY CROSS, DENBIGH. All that remains of this Cross is the head-stone, which was for- tunately discovered by the late Dr. Cumming in the grounds of the Abbey. The doctor had it removed to his house, called Dolhyfryd, about a mile from Den- bigh, and there erected by the side of a well. On the sale of Dolhyfryd to Mr. Blackwell, father of the present owner, the Cross passed with the property, and was removed from the well to the premises attached to the house, where it now remains ; and I have to thank Mr. Black- well for his courtesy in allowing me to sketch this interesting remnant of the Abbey Cross. The stone measures 25 inches in length, 11 inches in width, and 8 inches in thickness. Four decorated niches ornament its sides. The subjects, sculptured in relief, are more or less defaced by the action |'» t ] a of the elements, or other causes. f-\ W'K ^r In one of the broader niches is a carving iiP'if^tii'' of the Crucifixi ° n ( Fi s- i o> and ° n eacn side WMmmlaSm of the cross are the emblems of the passion. To the right are the pincers, nails, hammer, anvil, and two scourges ; to the left are the ladder and spear, with sponge at the end, and a single nail. This niche is trefoil-headed ; the shafts at the angles have disappeared, and the ornamentation at the top is much worn. The opposite face is occupied by a figure ot the Virgin and Child (Fig. II.). The hair of the Virgin falls over the shoulders, and her head is encircled with a crown. % 'mm mwuJm. Fig. I. Fig. II. Denbigh. 33 In one of the side niches is the figure of an ecclesiastic (Fig. III.) in the act of devotion, robed in alb, chasuble, and maniple. Traces of a series of Y crosses are observable on the chasuble. The lower portion of the figure has been mutilated. In the remaining niche is a male figure clothed in a flowing robe (Fig. IV.), the left hand holding a book, the right, three, or perhaps four, balls. The sleeves of the garment do not come lower than the elbow. This figure probably represents St. John. The Abbey to which this Cross belonged was formerly a house of Carmelite Friars, and it was founded by John Salisbury, of Llewenny, in 1289. It continued to be the mausoleum of the family until the Reformation, Many mutilated effigies and frag- ments of tombs have from time to time been found in the ruins, and some of these are still preserved, and carefully kept, by Mrs. Owen of the Abbey, the name given to the residence adjoining the ruins. But the Abbey itself is in a pitiable state of neglect, and serves the purpose of outbuildings to the Abbey farm. Indeed, Denbigh is famous for containing more ruined Fig. hi. ecclesiastical buildings than any other town in North Wales. Here is the Abbey, at the bottom of the town, in a deplorable state of neglect ; St. Hilary's Chapel, on the summit of the hill, is untenantable ; the fine ruins, near by, of a church which was intended to supersede the cathedral at St. Asaph, are mere skeleton walls ; St. Anne's Chapel, mentioned by Leland, is no more, and its site is supposed to be occupied by a public-house, the Chirk Castle Arms; the ancient parish church called Whitchurch is rather a mortuary chapel than anything else ; and the Queen's Chapel, in the castle, completes the list of neglected religious houses in the parish of Denbigh. The Abbey Cross belongs probably to the early part of the fourteenth century, but it may have Fl e- IV ' been erected, when the Abbey was built, at the close of the thirteenth century. D E R W E N. CHURCHYARD CROSS. HIS is the most elaborate and perfect Cross in the Vale of Clwyd. It stands on the south side of the church, opposite the porch, and is a prominent feature in the churchyard. Very old and weather- worn it appears, leaning towards the ground. There are two steps leading up to the pedestal or socket of the Cross. The lower portion of the only some of its stones remaining in position, and the most part, overgrown with grass ; this portion basement has these are, for measures 7ft. 4m. by 8ft. 3m. ; in height, the step is 8in., in breadth, ift. ' The second part measures 6ft. iin. by 5ft. 6in. ; in height the step is ioin.,in breadth, ift. 4m. The stones forming these steps are large. From the measurements it will be seen that the Cross stands, at present, upon an oblong basement. The pedestal is a ponderous stone, 2ft. gin. square at the base, and 2ft. 4in. high ; the upper bed is brought to an octagon by broaches of convex outline, and the upper edge is slightly canted. The shaft, which is mortised into the pedestal, is 13m. square at the base, but, by sculptured heads, which serve as broaches, it becomes octagonal. On each side of the smaller alternate faces of the shaft are, sculptured in relief, equidistant from each other, three figures, representing, some of them, angels, and others, men's heads, said, locally, to represent the twelve apostles ; and at the top, underneath a fillet moulding, are oak leaves. Between two mouldings at the upper extremity of the shaft, one on each of the six smaller sides, alternately arranged, are a head, and a rose of fourfoils, whilst, on the two larger opposite sides, is similar ornamentation, two on each face ; and also, underneath the head- stone, one on each face, are heads and roses. Height, to first moulding, 6ft. iin., and from same moulding to niche, gin. '- 'i' v"- ' v I; , V.-,is V jlJi?J v ">"~r'Vi,>°£ ■WEST SID'S. DERWE1ST. WOODALLMINSHALL & C?. UTHOS,OSWESTRY. Derwen. 35 _Q X U ffi u w. The head, or capstone, measures ift. gin. in width, and ift. iin. in depth, and its height is 2ft. ioin. It is divided into four niches, containing sculptured figures with canopy and pinnacles. The Cross is weather-worn, or otherwise disfigured, and it is difficult to decipher the sculpturing on its surface, and consequently this is variously read. The Rev. D. R. Thomas, in the History of the Diocese, expresses himself as follows respecting Derwen Cross, and his thoughtful opinion is ever worthy of consideration : — " The churchyard cross, now much weather-worn, has on its four faces canopied niches with subjects carved in relief, to represent respectively, the Crucifixion of our Lord, and Justice, Mercy, and Truth. The work belongs apparently to the twelfth or thirteenth century." After many visits to the Cross, and its careful observation in many lights, I have failed to make out all the figures, but my journeys have not been entirely in vain . They have been rewarded by the revela- tion of details that had escaped detection at previous visits, and they have increased my admira- tion for the painstaking labour and skill of the unknown artist who five centuries ago worked upon the Cross, forming it out of a single stone. In the west niche is a crucifix, with the figures of St. John and the Virgin, one on each side, all greatly defaced, not by time, but by the spoiler. In the south compartment is an angel, holding a scale in the left hand, while with his uplifted right hand he grasps a sword, which is seen above the head, and from the mouth proceeds a trumpet. A portion of the angel's wing is visible at the top of the left corner of the compartment, and the feet stand on a somewhat rounded surface. The scene represents the sum- moning of the dead to judgment, and it is therefore an appropriate symbol for a churchyard. 5a I □ Cross. Site of Churchyard Cross. Seals i-24th inch to the foot. A Holy Water Stoup. 36 Old Stone Crosses. The east face is sadly defaced and worn by time, and the figures are indistinct. In the centre of the niche is a chair on which is seated a person clothed in flowing garments ; on each side are two figures, an adult and a child ; so that the compartment contains figures of five persons. It has been supposed that the group represents the Wisdom of Solomon, but it is more probable that it was intended for the Virgin and Child, and possibly the second child stands for the infant Forerunner of Christ. The north face, the one opposite the Church porch, has like the east face suffered greatly, and all that is traceable in this niche is an erect image robed in loose raiment ; and probably this also was intended to represent the Virgin. The total height of the Cross, including the steps and socket, is 13 feet 1 inch, and when complete and perfect it was higher, for the top part of the head stone has disappeared. The Cross belongs to the fourteenth century. It has departed from the perpendicular, and inclines from 1 to 2 degrees eastward. Formerly, when the parish school was held in the room formed out of the lich gate, the churchyard was the children's play ground, and their great feat was to climb up the Cross, and seat themselves on the top. I have been informed that this was occasionally accomplished. If so, the repeated attempts would damage the engravings on the shaft, for the climbers would use them as props for their feet ; but it must have been difficult for a child to ascend to the top, as the head stone projects considerably from the shaft. The achievement was consequently accompanied with bodily danger sufficient to retard all but the rash and reckless from attempting its accomplishment. ANNOUNCEMENTS MADE BY PARISH CLERKS FROM STEPS OF CROSS. The custom of publishing parochial matters by the parish clerk from the steps of the Cross in Derwen parish reached our own days. The present clerk, Mr. John Morris, an intelligent and respectable man, who has filled the office for upwards of forty years, has himself published notices of local interest from the Cross ; but he has not lately done so. Printed circulars have superseded this kind of advertisement. The notices were announced by the parish clerk after the morning service, and the people were in the habit of waiting outside the Church until his appearance to ascertain whether he had Derwen. 37 any news to give them ; if he had, he proclaimed it, standing on the upper step of the Cross. Such was the custom in this parish, and also in some other parishes in the Vale ; but crosses latterly did not exist in every churchyard, and where there was no cross, the parish clerk stood in the porch. Mr. Morris said that the Sunday announcements made by him were often issued at the command of the justices of the peace. Various were the announcements made by the parish clerk on Sunday morning. Sometimes he had to inform the people when the tithes were to be paid, or when an auction was to take place, or of the sports to be played. Agricultural matters formed a part of these announcements. Where sheep were kept on the hills, they at certain seasons of the year came into the proclamations of the parish clerk. In fact, all matters of a secular kind incidental to farm life, and the exigencies of the country, were published, without compunction, on Sunday, by the clerk. The Rev. M. Hughes, Rector of Derwen, informed me that in South Wales the same thing formerly took place, and that the parish clerk of Llanedy was in the habit of pub- lishing auctions, and enumerating the things to be sold, jumbling them up in a ludicrous manner. Mr. Jones, schoolmaster at Llanfihangel-Glyn-Myfyr, told me that his mother had informed him that she remembered races, etc., announced by the parish clerk of Llandyrnog, a parish in the Vale of Clwyd, on Sunday, after morning service. I was also informed by natives of Llanfihangel- Glyn-Myfyr that athletic contests were formerly notified on Sunday by the clerk in the churchyard. As the parish clerk was formerly the public crier outside the church, so was it also his duty to announce inside matters connected with the services. I have heard a parish clerk in Carnar- vonshire give notice of a watch-night (gwylnos), a religious service held the night before the burial, in the house where a corpse lies, and also of the time when the funeral procession would start. In the English-speaking parts of Wales the parish clerk was in the habit of giving notices in church, and queer mistakes were sometimes made by these officials. SUNDAY GAMES. Sunday games date from most ancient times, and they continued in Wales up to and into the present century. Many an old man has told me that he has seen hand-ball played on Sunday morning 38 Old Stone Crosses. against the church walls, and that when the church bell ceased, players and spectators in a body entered the church. The testi- mony of the living is amply corroborated by many writers. Robert Hughes, Tyissa, Efenechtyd, 83 years old, told me that he remem- bered ball-playing at Clocaenog Church on Sunday mornings. He said that the game was continued to the last minute before the service began, and that then everybody walked into the church. Sunday playing, Hughes says, ceased when he was a lad. John Roberts, Penfedw, Llanfwrog, told me that it was a usual thing, according to the testimony of an old man, long dead, who was fond of speaking of his younger days, for the parson of a certain parish in the Vale of Clwyd to act as marker in important games, and that when the time for beginning the service approached, he would say, " Come, lads, it is high time to go to church," and immediately the game stopped, and they all followed the clergyman. The vicar mentioned died in 1809. Innumerable instances of Sunday sports in the Vale could be adduced, but enough for the present has been said. It was not in the Vale only that such games were carried on in the days of men still living. David Watkin, servant man at the Rectory, Llanfechain, Montgomeryshire, told me that he had seen bandy played in Llanfechain churchyard at the back of the church, the north side, on Sunday, when he was a lad. He told me he was 68 years old, and this was two years ago. Hand-ball was usually played on the gable end of the church, where there was no window ; but if the west end was not suitable, then the north wall was used. This wall in old churches had no windows in it, excepting a small one in the chancel, and it was therefore available for games of " fives"; but should there be windows in the walls, likely to interfere with the game, they were protected with shutters. The north side of the churchyard was devoted to games, and formerly no one was buried in that part. In Llanfechain churchyard there is a cock-pit still traceable, amphitheatre-like in form, on the north side of the church. The games played on Sunday were various : hammer-throwing and heavy-stone-throwing were both common ; nine-pins, prison-bars, ball (both hand and foot), dancing, etc., were all common games. Prison-bars, or prisoners' bars, or base, as it is called in Shakespeare, nine-pins and ball playing, were the favourite pastimes in more recent days. Dermen. 39 Contests between parish and parish were popular, and hard words and harder blows too frequently accompanied these friendly en- counters. Tradition says that the gosper (vesper) service was put off occasionally to enable the young men to continue their games un- interruptedly. This afternoon service was not so much thought of as the morning service, and was but indifferently attended. Usually there was a sermon on Sunday morning in church, but not in the afternoon. The writer was informed by a friend, Mr. Elias Williams, Bronydd, Llanllechid, Carnarvonshire, of an event which took place in his father's days, and in which, I think, he said his father took a part. A football match had been arranged for a certain Sunday, on a hill midway between Llanbedr and Llanllechid, between the young men of those parishes. On the day appointed it rained, and though the Llanllechid men were on the ground, their opponents failed to appear. The weather was propitious on the following Sunday ; but, as no arrangement had been made for that day, a few only of the Llan- llechid people presented themselves, whilst those of Llanbedr came in force. The game began, but the few opposed to the many could not even hold their own, and in their distress they despatched one of their number to the parish church, which was a good way off, to bring up assistance. The messenger rushed along over walls and fields, and, heated and exhausted, ran into the church, shouting out that the boys of Llanbedr had come, and that they were kicking the ball before them to Llanbedr parish. At these words every man in the church rose and left the building, and made for the hill with might and main. They came up to the victorious Llanbedr boys, who were kicking the ball over the mountain towards their own village. The ball was rapidly turned the other way, and the day ended with a "glorious licking for the Llanbedrites." Such a day became a red-letter day, and my dear old friend related with anima- tion the famous encounter here recorded. Sunday games seem to have been accompanied with much drink- ing, if not with much drunkenness. In very many instances the next house to the village church was the village inn, and it often abutted upon the churchyard walls. A clerical friend, who some years ago restored his church, informed me that when he first went to the living he noticed a small recess in the wall of the church, on the north side, and upon making inquiries, he was told that it was 40 Old Stone Crosses. the twll chwart, or quart hole, and that when a game of fives was being played a quart jug filled with ale was always there for the use of the players ; and he further said that the stakes were generally a quart of ale. His church had shutters to the windows on the side where ball was played. It need hardly be said that the twll chwart and shutters disappeared when the church was restored. This church was in Carmarthenshire, South Wales. These Sunday games outlived injunctions and laws, but they have in this century entirely disappeared from Wales. In some parishes they lingered longer than in others, and Derwen was one of these. In this parish there is a quillet of ground called Yr erw fowlio, the bowling quillet, where of a Sunday the natives exhibited their skill at chwareu ceilys, or nine-pins. It is no longer used on Sunday, or any other day, for this purpose. Hand-ball, or fives, was usually played here, as in other parishes, against the church walls, and Sunday was the ordinary time for playing this and other games. Fives was a dry game, and the players often resorted to the Blue Bell to quench their thirst. There was a door opening into the churchyard from the inn, and thus no time was lost in going through the churchyard gate, or over the stile, to the public-house. The gable end of the village inn at Derwen is built upon the very boundary of the churchyard, forming, in fact, the boundary wall, and whether the owners of the Blue Bell had ever a right of way into the churchyard direct from the house or not, they had a door which formerly gave ingress and egress. This privilege appears to have been obnoxious in later times, for a wall has been erected right in front of the door, thus stopping the passage. In the neighbouring parish of Llanfwrog, a public-house, the Labour in Vain, also abuts upon the churchyard, and here, too, is a door in the gable end opening into it. This door is not blocked up, but it is quite disused in these days. The churches at Llan- ferres and Llanynys likewise have public -houses adjoining the churchyards. In the village of Bettws-Gwerfil-Goch, near Corwen, the public-house adjoins the churchyard, and has a back door, even at present in use, that opens into it. At Dolgelley a door opening into the churchyard from the adjoining inn was closed fifteen years ago. There may be other instances of the juxta- position of church and tavern in the Vale of Clwyd and other Derwen. 41 places, that have been unnoticed by me, but those which I have now enumerated are more than sufficient to prove that in days gone by the public-house was in great request. There was a time when singers thought they ought to have a glass of beer between the singing of one part of the service and another, and then these entries into public-houses would be great conveniences ; and the door opening directly from the singing-loft to the churchyard would enable the sitters in the west-end gallery to escape unnoticed, when- ever they liked, from the church. At every restoration of a church, some distinguishing, if dis- figuring, feature disappears, and west-end galleries, very shortly, will be things of the past. Stone steps, leading direct to the church gallery from the churchyard, have, I believe, entirely gone ; the last to be removed in or near the Vale of Clwyd was that at Bettws- Gwerfil-Goch Church. Many extracts might be made from books showing the prevalence of Sunday games in Wales and England up to a late period, but two shall suffice. In the Life of the Rev, Thomas Charles, by the Rev. W. Hughes, Vicar of Llanuwchllyn, near Bala, Mr. Charles, speaking of the last quarter of the eighteenth century, and scenes which he had himself observed, says : — On Sunday mornings the poor were more constant in their attendance at church than the gentry ; but the Sunday evenings (afternoons up to dark) were spent by all in idle amusements. Every Sabbath there was what was called Y chwareu-gamp, a sort of sport in which all the young men of the neighbourhood had a trial of strength, and the people assembled from the surrounding country to see their feats In this town (Bala) they used to employ the Sundays in dancing and singing to the harp, and in playing tennis against the town hall. In every corner of the town some sport or other went on, till the light of the Sabbath-day had faded away. But it was not in Wales only that the things now mentioned took place ; they were also common in England. In the Records of the Life of the Rev. W. H. Havergal, by his daughter, it is stated that Miss Havergal visited Coaley, Gloucester- shire, to tread in her father's footprints, where he had been officiating from 1819 to 1822. She says : — Another man told me that when my father first came to Coaley, as soon as ever the church was over, the game of fives was played against the 42 Old Stone Crosses. tower wall, but for shame they could not play after hearing such sermons. — Home Words, xii., p. 256. When we recall the measures which were taken to put down Sunday games, we find how unwilling the people were to forego these recreations. An account of these measures is given in the Appendix. LLOFFT-Y-GROG, OR ROOD-LOFT. Derwen is the only church in the Vale of Clwyd which has a rood-loft, or, as it is called in Welsh, Llofft-y-grog, i.e., the Loft of the Cross. This rood-loft occupies its original position between the nave and chancel of the Church. Until the late restoration, the loft was entered from the body of the Church by stairs that abutted upon the north wall, but at present it is reached by stairs built into the north wall. It extends the whole breadth of the Church, and measures 25ft. long by 9ft. 4in. broad. The wooden cross that formerly stood in the uppermost beam, facing the nave, has disappeared, but the mortise into which it entered still exists, and measures 7m. by i^in. The parish clerk informs me that he remembers the loft occupied by parishioners, and he states that there were in it two movable benches for their use. My informant says that on the great festivals the rood-loft, the west-end gallery, which has been taken down, and the body of the Church, were crowded with people, and on such occa- sions the north side door, now closed, and the south door, were thrown open to enable the congregation to leave the Church. He also states that the people who were in the habit of frequenting the rood-loft, when the parishioners generally attended the Church, continued doing so from choice, and not necessity, to the end of their lives. The rood-lofts, as I have said, have disappeared from the churches in and about the Vale of Clwyd, but there is evidence in several buildings of their former existence. Llanrhaiadr Church was lately restored, and a small window, high up in the south wall, was brought to light, which evidently was intended and required for the rood-loft. The small narrow windows on the south and north sides of Cerrig-y- drudion Church show that at one time there was a rood-loft. In Llanelidan Church are beams that seem to have been portions of a rood-loft, and in the Village Churches in Denbighshire a sketch of a part of it will be found. Other churches bear indications of rood- lofts that were taken down years ago, so far back that even tradition is silent about them. In Efenechtyd Church is a battlemented and Derwen. 43 paneled beam of wood, now used as a partition between the chancel and nave, which was a part of the rood-loft. The screen at Clocaenog Church retains traces of the rood-loft that once surmounted it, and from the date, 1672, on a piece of wood nailed to the screen, we may infer that the loft was then improved away. The destruction of rood-lofts began as early as the days of Henry VIII. In a letter from Cranmer to Henry VIII., dated January 24, 15+I, he refers to the king's commands " to take down the lofts," &c. (See The Miscellaneous Writings, &c, of Thomas Cranmer, page 415, Parker Society.) An entry in the parish register of South Littleton, Worcestershire, under date 1552, refers to the rood-loft there. It is : " Received . . . for ou r Rode loffte." Passing over a few years we find another allusion to rood- lofts. In Archbishop Parker's articles to be inquired of within the diocese of Canterbury in his visitation in 1569 is the following question : — Whether the roode lofte be pulled downe, according to the order pre- scribed ; and if the partition betweene the chauncell and the churche be kepte. — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 259. In 1571 the Ecclesiastical Commissioners gave orders for the removal of rood-lofts : — It is thus decreed and ordained that the roodlofts, as yet being at this day aforesaid (the tenth day of October) untransposed, shall be so altered that the upper parts of the same with soller, be quite taken down unto the upper parts of the vaults and the beams running in length over the said vaults, by putting some convenient crest upon the said beam, &c— Remains of Grindal, pp. 154-5, Parker Society. Articles to the same effect as the foregoing were issued by Edmund, Archbishop of York (Grindal). And in the same Arch- bishop's injunctions for the laity, issued also in 1571, are the following words : — All altars to be pulled down to the ground, and the altar stones defaced and bestowed to some common use : and rood lofts altered. The materials to be sold for the use of the church. — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 269. Upon his translation to Canterbury, the Archbishop issued like F 44 Old Stone Crosses. Articles of Enquiry within his province of Canterbury. This he did in the 18th year of Queen Elizabeth, a.d. 1576 : — Art. 4. whether in ye church all altars be taken .... And whether y e roodlofts be taken and altered so that the upper parts thereof with the soller or loft be quite taken down unto the cross beam, &c. By taking away the " soller " or loft, in which people congregated, a simple screen was left standing, and this will account for the number of screens without a loft that are still to be met with in the Vale of Clwyd and other parts of Wales. In a very interesting History of the Parish of Llanerfyl by the Rev. G. Edwards, M.A., Rector of Llangadfan, which appears in the Montgomeryshire Collections (vol. xvi., p. 266), is an account of a Vestry held July 15th, 1675, Lord Herbert presiding, in which it was resolved to remove the rood-loft. The demolition of this loft involved, possibly, no greater principle than that its removal was necessary for the contemplated improvements in the church. Be this as it may, the Vestry resolved : — 1. The rood-loft was ordered to be taken down, all except the door under it, which was to be left to make a distinction between the body of the church and the chancel. 2. With the additional timber, the seats, by way of a gallery, to be erected below the font for the parishioners in Heu of the said rood. These resolutions were carried out, as is shewn by the records of a subsequent vestry. The manner in which the rood-loft was removed reminds us of Archbishop Parker's injunctions in 1569, that a " par- tition betweene the chauncell and the churche be kepte," and the substitution of a gallery in lieu of the rood "soller" shows that in other places as well as in Derwen rood-lofts were occupied by the people, and without them the accommodation was evidently insuffi- cient for the congregation. It is fortunate that Derwen has retained its screen and loft. A few years ago it was the fashion to remove, as encumbrances, or for some other reason, all these interesting and valuable records of art in years gone by, but at present they are, deservedly, highly appre- ciated and preserved. The late Bishop of Bangor, Bishop Bethel, subscribed handsomely towards the restoration of Derwen Church in 1857, upon the condition that the screen and rood-loft should be left undisturbed. This was complied with, and so the handsome and invaluable fourteenth century screen remains intact, and, if not Derwen. 45 tampered with, it will last for centuries. 1'here is a beautiful screen in good preservation in Llanwnog Church, Montgomeryshire, and another in Llanrwst Parish Church. EASTER-TIDE FESTIVITIES. The observance of Good Friday and Easter in the last century was very different from what it is now in Wales. The parish clerk of Derwen tells me, and I have heard the same thing in other parishes, that at Easter-tide all the adults in the parish were in the habit of partaking of the Holy Communion. There were three celebrations at that season, one on Good Friday, one on Saturday, and one on Easterday. In some parishes I have also heard of a celebration on Easter Monday. The parishioners did not all partake at the same time ; servants, farmers, and gentry, partook on different days. This division of classes appears to have been common, for the same thing was the rule in Llanasa, and other churches also. I know not the exact date when what I have now related ceased, but the living state that in the time of their fathers all the parishioners communicated on one of the three days named ; and the immediate predecessor of the present parish clerk at Derwen used to say that so many communicated in his early days that he " thought they would never end." The afternoon of Easter Saturday was formerly a half holiday. Servants claimed it as a matter of right, and spent it in various games, but they attended church in the morning of the day. But Easter Monday was the great gala day, alike with masters and servants. It was spent in jollity, games, and exhibitions of strength and wrestling. Derwen had its Erw ysgwt, or wrestling quillet, as well as its Erw fowlio, or bowling quillet. There was one singular custom in this parish which happily has passed away. It was called Gwneyd Bragod, and was described to me by Mr. Morris, the parish clerk, who remembers it. Gwneyd Bragod, or making bragget, took its name from a kind of liquor in use among the Welsh, consisting of a mixture of mead and spiced beer. This was a beverage specially prepared for Easter Monday. It was an old custom, so Mr. Morris informs me, for the young women of the parish, on Easter Monday, to invite to the public-house all the young men they met on their way to the village, to have a drink of Bragod. With such a custom in the parish, it is 46 Old Stone Crosses. not to be wondered at that John Langford, who was Rector from the year 1672 to 1718, wrote the following elegiacs in the parish register : — Baptizatorum tibi nomina singula signo Atq' ita defunctos ordine quosq' loco Sed junctos memoro sociali fcedere paucos Transiliit metas luxuriosa cohors. There was in other places, at Easter time, something similar to this liquor-drinking and gallantry. Strutt says that it was customary in the Scilly Isles for " the young people to exercise a sort of gallantry called goose-dancing, when the maidens are dressed up for young men, and the young men for maidens ; thus disguised they visit their neighbours in companies, where they dance. . . . When the music and dancing is done, they are treated with liquor, and then they go to the next house of entertainment" (Sports and Pastimes, P- 349). DYSERTH N the south side of the Parish Church, in the church- yard, stands a Cross which, tradition says, originally marked the spot, on the hill-side ; where Einion, son of Ririd Flaidd, fell, pierced with an arrow, while engaged in the siege of the castle tha"t stood on the summit of the rock above the Church. The piece of ground on which the National School stands was formerly called Bryn Einion, but it is now named Bryn-yr-Ysgol, or the Mount of the School. On this Bryn the Cross is said to have stood, but the exact spot is unmarked and unknown. The inhabi- tants state that years ago the Cross was, for safety's sake, removed from the hill-side to its present position. If this were verily Croes Einion, Einion's Cross, it would be valu- able and interesting as showing the kind of crosses erected to the memory of the brave, six or more centuries ago. But its identity is not proved. Pennant says : — It was at a siege of this place that Eineon, the son of Ririd Vlaidd, was slain. A cross was erected on the spot, called Croes Eineon, the shaft of which, ornamented with strange sculpture, now is supposed to form the stile into the churchyard of Diserth; in which is another cross, of very curious workmanship. — Tour in Wales, vol. ii., pp. 7, 8. Thus briefly, and guardedly, does Pennant express himself respect- ing the crosses he observed in Dyserth. At present there is only one Cross in the churchyard. When Professor Westwood was at Dyserth, he saw two crosses, which are figured in the Lapidarium Wallice. The Professor was at Dyserth thirty-five years ago, and since that time one of the crosses has entirely disappeared. The other is still in existence, and most probably it is the one which is last mentioned by Pennant, as being in the churchyard, " of very curious workmanship." Pennant visited Dyserth in the last century. The existing Cross could not have formed the stile into the churchyard, for its surfaces do not exhibit marks of having been so used. * * 48 Old Stone Crosses. The cross which Pennant found as a stile, and which was then supposed to have been the shaft of Croes Einion, has latterly dis- appeared. Somehow or other the present Cross has usurped the honour due to Einion's Cross, but Professor Westwood detected the fraud. He writes : — This Crbss is stated to have been brought from an adjoining hill, and to have been erected on the spot where Einon, son of Ririd Vlaidd, was slain by an arrow 'at the time the castle was destroyed by Llewellyn ap Gruffydd, about 1260. The Cross is, however, of a much earlier date, having been ascribed to the eighth century, which is certainly too early. . . . It is also stated that there was an inscription on the Cross, which, according to Griffith Hiraethog, was read : — " Oc si petatur lapis yste kausa notatur Einon oxi Ririd Flaidd filius hoc memoratur." No trace, however, exists of such an inscription, nor does there seem to be sufficient space for it on any part of the stone. — Lapidarium Wallice, p. 209. That there was no writing of any kind on this Cross is further proved by information which the Rev. D. Jones, Vicar of the parish, gave the writer. Mr. Jones stated that a few years ago the Cross was removed bodily, and that he certainly did not detect traces of any inscription on that part of the shaft which was buried in the ground. He estimated the length of the shaft in the ground at about three feet. There are no letters, nor space for any letters, on the exposed part of the Cross. Mr. Jones said that the Cross was replaced on its original site when it was re-erected in the churchyard. Taking all these things into consideration, it cannot be maintained that the present Cross commemorates Einion's death. The writer is indebted to the kindness of Mr. Howel W. Lloyd for the following interesting transcript from Robert Vaughan's Pedigrees respecting Einion, son of Ririd Flaidd : — His (Ririd Flaidd's) eldest son was Madoc, Enion the second, and Howel the third . . . The said Enion was killed in a fight at Diserth in Flintshire, in memorie of whome a Crosse was erected there, and called Croes Enion, yt is, Enion's Crosse, and thereon was engraven this distic. Mr. Lloyd remarks: — "Here an hiatus occurs in R. V.'s MS., but the distich is supplied by W. W. E. Wynne, Esq., of Peniarth, from another Hengwrt MS., Griffith Hiraethog's MS. Book of Pedi- grees, entitled Llyfr Casgl law G. H. (fol. no), which is written in Dyserth. 49 a very illegible hand, so that R. V. may have failed to read it to his satisfaction." The distich is given as follows : — Ok sy petatur lapis yste kaussa notatur Enion oxi rririt flaid filius hoc memoratur. The Cross which at present exists in Dyserth churchyard is 63 inches high. It is a monolith, of a slaty, destructible nature. About one half of the head, which was circular, has been broken off; the shaft tapers throughout its length. On the west side of the circular head is cut a Maltese cross, the extremities of which project slightly beyond the circle ; this cross proceeds from a central boss 5 inches in diameter, and the limbs of the cross measure, therefrom to the circumference, jh inches. The head, when perfect, measured 18 inches in diameter; but, if measured from the extremity of the limbs of the Maltese cross, the entire breadth of the head would be 20 inches. Between the arms of the cross are rather deeply cut trilobed incisions, 2| inches long ; and between the trilobes and the circumference are a series of oval or elliptical impressions, four on each limb of the cross, and four on each space between the limbs ; and thus there would be, when the cross was complete, thirty-two of these elongated incisions around the circular head. At present there are only fourteen more or less visible. A circular incision, at present but indistinctly seen, separated these impressions from the trilobes. On the only arm of the Maltese Cross that is entire, between the elliptical markings and the central boss, is a cross formed by two lines intersecting each other, having on either side a couple of lines parallel therewith, which meet each other and form angles. The other arm that partly exists has indistinct interlaced ribbon ornamentation. The stem of the Cross on this side, i.e., the west side, has inter- laced ribbon ornamentation, which is represented as terminating just beneath a lobe-like ornamentation close to the lower arm of the Maltese cross ; but the work in this part is very much weather-worn and indistinct. Near the base of the shaft is a quadrangular pattern, similar to that on the arm of the Cross, divided by diagonal lines into a series of triangles, which form a cross within the quadrangle. The length of the stem is 46 inches ; breadth, underneath the head, 8| inches; at the surface of the ground, 11 inches; the width, 4 to 5 inches. The side of the Cross facing eastward is also embellished. The 50 Old Stone Crosses. circular head has two trilobed incisions, and traces of a third ; so that on this side, as on the other, there were originally four trilobed incisions. In the centre is a boldly projecting boss, orna- mented with spiral lines. The boss is 5 inches in diameter, and 3 in projection. The space between the trilobes and the cir- cumference is filled with interlaced work, while that between the trilobes is taken up by spiral lines, and underneath the boss is a knot representing two ropes entwined. From this part, to within 11 inches of the ground, the shaft is plain, the stone having peeled off; but at the bottom there is a portion of an interlaced line ornamentation similar to that on the other side. The edges of the stem are ornamented with interlaced ribbon work, broken into two by a moulding 8 inches below tne head of the Cross ; in the spaces between the ribbon work are small raised bosses. Although the Cross is elaborately embellished, the workmanship is rough, and the notches of the stonecutter's tool are visible. The stone itself is overgrown with lichen, is greatly weather-worn, and has a tendency to split. Unfortunately, even within the last forty years, a large portion of one side has dropped off. The part that has disappeared is delineated in Professor Westwood's excellent work already several times alluded to. The drawings which illustrate my own remarks were taken in 1880. SOCKET OF CROSS. The socket or pedestal of a Cross was brought to light at the restoration of the Church. It was found imbedded in one of the walls. The Church underwent alterations in 1579, 1603, and 1636, and probably in one of these the socket was built into the wall for preservation, or it might have been so placed by a utilitarian builder, to save trouble and expense. The stone is at present in the church porch ; a few years ago it was lying about the churchyard. It deserves a safe resting place. It is a block of irregular shape. (Figs. I., II., and III.) The total height is 19 inches ; the base is much broader than the top. Five of its sides are ornamented, but one is plain. Evidently at one time this pedestal was only partially exposed. The extremity was intended to be buried in the ground, the lower 5 inches being rough and unornamented ; while the upper 14 inches are beautified with interlaced and other designs ; and there is one long unornamented Scale, lloch. to the Poof.. PEDESTAL OT CROSS. TOP OE PEDESTAL Kg. 3. SECTION OE PE0EST4L. rig. 2. DYSERTH. WOODALL.MINSHALL &C°. LITHOS., OSWESTRY. Dyserth. 5i side, which apparently was also originally hidden from view, or it would have been decorated like the other sides. The socket measures 12 inches long, 6| inches broad, and 7 inches deep. These dimensions will admit of its having been the pedestal of the Cross now in the churchyard ; and, furthermore, the engravings upon it are identical in character with those on the Cross. One side has on it a circle, inclosing a cross, two arms of which extend beyond the circle, while the transverse arms terminate with the circumference ; the next side to this has interlaced work, similar to that on the Cross ; then comes another circle divided into four compartments, having within each compartment a figure resembling the letter S. The two next divisions have interlaced work ; but both these sides have been greatly damaged, and the design on one of them has almost disappeared. The interstices between the designs are filled with mortar, and this makes it difficult to trace correctly the interlaced work. There are several grooves or incisions on the top of the pedestal, as shown in the accompanying plan (Fig. III.). Built into the wall, where possibly the stile was which Pennant mentions, is a long block of limestone, measuring 5ft. ioin. by i6in. broad, but one side only of this block is exposed. There was found lately, in the church- yard, a stone which is still preserved, with a cross upon it. An en- graving of it is here given (Fig. IV.). It seems to have been one of the panels in an altar tomb. It was accidentally dug up, and is in a very good state of preservation. Another visit to the churchyard was lately made, and I observed a stone (Fig. V.) lying, among other stones, against the east wall of the church ; this, too, was probably a panel in an altar tomb. <:--=- ■ 201H Fig. V, Fig. IV. EFENECHTYD. SUPPOSED CHURCHYARD CROSS. HEN Efenechtyd Church was being re-built, in the year 1873, an ornamented stone was found embedded in the wall, and this stone, Mr. Baker, the architect, supposes, was a portion of the Churchyard Cross. I am indebted to this gentleman for tracings of his drawings of this stone, which are here reproduced on a reduced scale (Figs. I. and II.) This fragment appears to have been twice subjected to the stone-cutter's chisel, for both the top of the stone and two of its sides are £ ornamented. The top of the stone has a singular spiral figure cut into it, which is shown in the accompanying illustration (Fig. I.). This part of the stone measures 5 inches by 7 inches. It will be observed, upon referring to the sketch, that the figure is incomplete, as indicated by the dotted lines, and if it was ever perfect, the stone must have been originally of greater dimensions than it is at present. The figure on the top apparently has been partly cut away to make room for the ornamented work on the sides, and if this was the case, then this stone has occupied at various periods two distinct positions, and has been used for two Fig- 11. different purposes. It is difficult to say posi- tively what these two uses were. All that can be said is that it is very probable that the coiled design on the top is more ancient than the interlaced work on the side of the stone. It may be Fig. 1. Efenechtyd. 53 interesting to note that at the restoration of Bangor Cathedral there were discovered several Norman fragments, including a curious sepulchral cross, which had been used to form the base of the central buttress of the south transept. In this case, as in that of Efenechtyd, the stone had been re-dressed to make it suitable for its new position. The Efenechtyd fragment measures I foot 4J inches in height. A cable moulding running down the stone separates two designs of the ribbon or interlaced pattern (Fig. II.). Both this stone relic, and the oak font in the church, cut out of a single trunk, are Norman. A portion of a stone with sculpturing on it is preserved in the Rectory grounds, and it is not improbable that it is the one found in the church wall, though, having been subjected to rough treatment, it differs somewhat from that delineated by Mr. Baker. A sketch of the stone in the Rectory grounds is here given (Fig. III.). At present there is no vestige of the Church- yard Cross ; and another cross seems also to have disappeared from the neighbourhood. Just over the hill to the east of the church is a farm called Cil-y-groes-lwyd, the nook of the grey cross, but no traces of a cross remain, though the name of the place appears to indicate that formerly a j cross stood there. Of crosses proper we have, therefore, but a small fragment in Efenechtyd, and even that is somewhat doubtful ; but in other respects the parish is interesting, and its folk-lore valuable. It is chiefly because of its customs that it occu- pies a place in these pages. The customs that linger in this sequestered nook were, perhaps, once common to all North Wales, and they lived longer in this- quiet retreat than in most parishes, but they are now for- saking their last home. Owing to various causes the population of the parish has become migratory, and the farms often change hands. This is inimical to the preservation of customs, and also to parochial patriotism, but the same evil is only too prevalent in Wales generally, and hence the necessity for collecting and recording customs that are rapidly disappearing before the sound of the railway whistle. Fig. in. 54 Old Stone Crosses. I will begin by noticing such customs as may be called Church Customs. THE CONGREGATION STOOD AS THE CLERGYMAN WAS LEAVING THE CHURCH. This custom was once common throughout Wales. Latterly it has disappeared from most parishes, and it ceased to exist at Efenechtyd in the days of those now living. An old parishioner, Robert Davies, Tyntwll, as a young man, was in the habit of attending church, but became a Nonconformist before he had reached middle age. Davies came to church on the Christmas evening of 1882, and in a conversation I had with him, after this casual visit, he volunteered the following information. " People," said he, " do not behave now in church as they did when I was a young man. I stood up, as I was in the habit of doing, on Christmas night, after the service was over, for the clergyman to leave the church first, but I found the congregation leaving before you had time to come down, and so I followed. The congregation always stayed in church in former days until the clergyman had reached the porch." Davies is apparently over seventy. Thus this custom has disappeared from Efenechtyd within the last fifty years or so. In other parts of Wales it was prevalent at the beginning of the century. About twenty-five years ago I was acquainted with an old man, Robert Hughes, from seventy to eighty years old, an inhabitant of Ro-wen, near Conway, who as a lad frequented Llan- gelynin Old Church, near Penmaenmawr, and there the congregation stood up when the clergyman walked down the aisle. Robert, however, one Sunday bolted out of the church just before the parson; but, said he, when recounting the fact to me, " I had not gone above a few steps before I received such a slap on the side of my head from the parson as sent me reeling;" and, added old Hughes, " never did I again attempt to leave the church before the clergyman had gone down the alley." THE PASSING BELL. The death of a person is announced by tolling the church bell. The passing bell, as this is called, is rung the evening of the day on which the death occurs, and not as the soul is departing. The E/enechtyd. 55 custom still continues in this parish, but is not universally observed. By varying the number of pulls, the parishioners know whose passing bell is being rung, for it is the custom to observe the following rule when announcing a death. Four pulls, thrice repeated, with a pause between each set of pulls, implies that a girl-child is dead, i.e., the bell is tolled twelve times for a girl's death ; five pulls, thrice repeated, with a pause after each fifth, indicates the death of a boy- child ; and six, seven, eight, and nine pulls, thrice repeated, imply respectively that a single woman, an unmarried man, a married woman or a married man, has departed this life. In Llanfair parish the pulls are not thrice repeated, and this is \he only difference between the two parishes, as far as concerns the passing bell. The custom has descended to us from remote times. It is thus alluded to in the year 1564:— That when any Christian bodye is in passing, that the bell be tolled, and that the curate be specially called for to comforte the sicke person, and after the time of his passinge to ring no more but one shorte peale, and one before the buriall, and another shorte peale after the buriall. — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 249. With the exception of the " shorte peale after the buriall," which is not now generally observed, the practice above mentioned has in substance reached our days. Even the ringing of the bell after the funeral is still common in some parishes. In Llanasa and Caerwys parishes, as soon as the grave is filled in, the church bell is rung, and in these parishes the passing bell is tolled the evening before the funeral. GWYLNOS, OR WATCHNIGHT. The gwylnos, which is literally a night of watching for the dead, is held the night preceding the funeral. The custom has all but dis- appeared from the Vale of Clwyd, but it is observed in the mountain districts bordering upon the Vale. I have been told that in the parish of Tremeirchion, near St. Asaph, a prayer meeting is held in the house where the corpse lies, the evening before the funeral. Mr. John Roberts, Plas Einion, Llanfair D.C., remembers a gwylnos being held for William Jones, Plasuchaf, in Llanfair parish, consisting of hymn-singing and prayers. This is the usual way of keeping a gwylnos in Carnarvonshire, where the custom still flourishes, but 56 Old Stone Crosses. sometimes, when a clergyman conducts the service, a sermon or exhortation forms part of the proceedings. The following quotation shows how the gwylnos was observed towards the close of the last century in Carnarvonshire, and the description may be true of all such gatherings in other parts of North Wales. The writer says : — When the parish-bell announces the death of a person, it is immediately enquired upon what day the funeral is to be ; and on the night preceding that day, all the neighbours assemble at the house where the corpse is, which they call Ty corph, i.e., " The corpse's house." The coffin, with the remains of the deceased, is then placed on stools in an open part of the house, covered with black cloth, or, if the deceased was unmarried, with a clean white sheet, with three candles burning on it. Every person on entering the house falls devoutly on his knees before the corpse, and repeats to himself the Lord's Prayer, or any other prayer that he chooses. Afterwards, if he is a smoker, a pipe and tobacco are offered to him. This meeting is called Gwylnos, and in some places Pydreua. The first word means Vigil ; the other is, no doubt, a corrupt word from Paderau, or Padereuau, that is Paters, or Pater-nosters. When the assembly is full, the parish-clerk reads the common service appointed for the Burial of the Dead ; at the conclusion of which, psalms, hymns, and other godly songs are sung ; and since Methodism is become so universal, some one stands up and delivers an oration on the melancholy subject, and then the company drop away by degrees. — Williams's Observations on the Snowdon Mountains, pp. 13, 14. OFFERINGS ON THE COFFIN. Offerings at the house of the deceased, for the benefit of the sur- viving members of the family, are common in many parts of Wales, and in the Vale they still exist. After the coffin is brought out of the house, it is placed on two chairs, and if there is to be an offering on the coffin, or, as it is called in Welsh, Offrymu ar yr arch, those present at the funeral walk up and deposit a coin. Formerly it was customary after a funeral for the men and women to go to the village public-house : the men, to drink beer, and the women, tea. To defray this expense there was a Shotgladdu, or a funeral shot, of six- pence or a shilling, which became the property of the innkeeper. But this custom has now ceased in most, though not in all places, and instead of the shot in the public-house, money is given in the house from which the funeral starts by all who partake of the refresh- ments there provided, to the nearest relative of the deceased. Efenechtyd, 57 STARTING THE FUNERAL. The funeral in our days is not started without a short service, con- sisting of reading the Bible, singing, prayer, and occasionally an address or addresses. The form is varied, and differs according to the social position of the deceased. Nonconformists and Churchmen alike adhere to the practice. This is called Codi'r corph, or raising the corpse. In cases where the clergyman is present, he usually is requested to start the funeral ; in his absence, the parish clerk does so, by repeating the Lord's Prayer. This occurs where the deceased belonged to the Church, but if he was a Nonconformist, then the service is performed by a minister, if one is present, or by some other chapel official. This custom dates from ancient times. It is alluded to in the Injunctions of Edward VI., 1547, wherein priests are informed that they are not bound " to fetch any coarse before it be brought to the churchyard" {Concilia, vol. iv., p. 7). Again in 1549 allusion is made to the same matter, for in that year the clergy are instructed " to receive no corps, but at the churchyard" {Concilia, vol. iv., p. 32) ; and in 1571 the people are instructed thus : — Nor to say the " De profundus " for the dead. Nor rest at any cross in carrying any corps to burying. Nor to leave any little crosses of wood there. — Concilia, vol. iv., pp. 269-70. Notwithstanding these and like injunctions the custom in a certain form has survived, and reached our days. It is true that now the funeral procession does not rest awhile at cross roads, nor do the people repeat the Pader in such places, as they once did, but instead, hymns are often sung, as the procession passes hamlets on its way to the church. NEXT OF KIN CARRY THE BIER. The custom of the next of kin, being males, starting the funeral, has reached our days. They also carry the bier from the lich-gate into the church, and again from the church to the grave, and they also lower the coffin into the grave. OFFERINGS AT FUNERALS. In many parishes in Wales there are no burial fees, but instead there are offerings, and these constitute the clergyman's fees. Where offerings are made, the proceedings are carried out as follows. After 58 Old Stone Crosses. the clergyman has read that portion of the burial service which is to be said in church, the nearest relatives of the deceased walk up to the chancel, and deposit in the appointed place a coin, generally a silver piece. When they have returned to their seats, the congrega- tion, first the men and then the women, offer, and they generally give a penny. The amount thus offered depends greatly upon the respec- tability of the deceased, and often it reaches a large sum. The writer has heard that upon the occasion of a well-known and highly- connected gentleman's funeral, the offering came to upwards of twenty pounds. Usually it amounts to a few shillings, but of course it fluctuates considerably. In this parish it varies from three or four shillings to upwards of a pound. In some parishes it was, and possibly still is, a custom for the parish clerk to count the offerings before the funeral leaves the church, and then publish the amount : an incentive to many to offer largely. In Tremeirchion the parish clerk claims the most valuable coin given in the church, and he has also, in addition, an offering for himself at the grave. This is a local usage. After the people have offered, the clergyman proceeds down the aisle, and he is followed by the mourners to the grave, where the re- maining portion of the service is read. At the close, the clerk says the Pader, and then goes about with a ladle to receive the offerings given to him by the relatives of the deceased and others. Then the grave is decorated by a woman, who, it may be, has laid out the dead, and so the funeral ceremonies come to an end. SUL COFFA, OR COMMEMORATION SUNDAY. The Sunday succeeding a funeral, or in some parishes, the second Sunday after the burial, is called Sul Coffa, or Commemoration Sunday. It is customary for relatives and friends of the deceased to come to church on the morning of this day. But the relatives proceed to the grave before entering the church, and there they remain awhile. In some parishes in the Vale the men, while at the grave, stand with uncovered heads. But formerly, in the early part of this century, the near relatives of the dead knelt around the new made grave on Sul Coffa, and repeated the Pader. Thomas Davies, parish clerk of Llanychan, near Ruthin, who is now alive, and is not apparently seventy years old, told the writer that he remembered Efenechtyd. 59 planks being placed each side the grave for the convenience of the mourners ; and Amelia Pierce, who is mentioned in connection with Gwyddelwern Church, states that she remembers mourners kneeling at the head and feet of the departed, and that the stones with knee rests (which are described under the head of Corwen) were for their convenience. In Montgomeryshire, and in other parts of Wales, Commemoration Sunday is observed ; but there and elsewhere it is called Ail gladdedi- gaeth, or second funeral. People, in many Welsh parishes, still come to church on Sul Coffa in large numbers. And often they walk many miles to be present on the day when the dead are commemorated. It appears that formerly there was an annual commemoration of the dead, but at present only one day is observed. For the sake of comparison it will not be amiss to give here what Pennant says of Welsh funeral customs, but it should always be borne in mind that customs differ in different localities, and what Pennant noticed might have been local, and not common to the whole of Wales. He states that : — Previous to a funeral, it was customary, when the corpse was brought out of the house and laid upon the bier, for the next of kin, be it widow, mother, sister, or daughter (for it must be a female), to give, over the coffin, a quantity of white loaves, in a great dish, and sometimes a cheese, with a piece of money stuck in it, to certain poor persons. After that they present, in the same manner, a cup of drink, and require the person to drink a little of it immediately. When that is done, all present kneel down ; and the minister, if present, says the Lord's Prayer : after which they proceed with the corpse ; and at every cross-way, between the house and the church, they lay down the bier, kneel, and again repeat the Lord's Prayer ; and do the same when they first enter the churchyard. It is also customary, in many places, to sing psalms on the way ; by which the stillness of rural life is often broken into, in a manner finely productive of religious reflections. To this hour, the bier is carried by the next of kin ; a custom considered as the highest respect that filial piety can pay to the deceased. — Tour in Wales, vol. ii., p. 352. BURYING IN SHEETS. The late parish clerk of Aber, Carnarvonshire, John Parry, in- formed the writer that he remembered the last person in that parish who was buried in a sheet. He stated that formerly all the poor were so buried. They were carried to the grave, he said, in a wooden coffin, which was the property of the parish, but they were H 60 Old Stone Crosses. deposited in the grave wrapped up in a common sheet. It is strange that this ancient custom continued so long. In former days stone coffins were in general use for the upper classes, but it will be seen from the illuminations of ancient missals that dead bodies wrapped in a sheet or cloth were put into the ground. I find from the Penny Cyclopczdia, vol. viii., under the word "coffin," that Matthew Paris says that the monks of St. Alban's were thus buried till the time of Abbot Waren, who died 1195. This Abbot ordered that henceforth the dead brothers were to be buried in stone coffins, as being more decent ; for this command Matthew Paris accuses him of innovating on ecclesiastical customs to please the multitude. The poor con- tinued, not only in the Norman but also in later times, to be buried according to the old custom, and it appears that even in modern times in Wales, unseemly though it be in our eyes, the practice was continued. The following quotation from the Diary of Philip Henry (p. 305) shows that in the latter part of the seventeenth century people were occasionally at least buried without a coffin : — leiftenant Williams of Llangollen in Denb. having layn in prison some time upon the writ de excom. cap. was sick and had favor by y e B p to return home awhile & dy'd & after 10 dayes lying in y e Churchyard was, by Commissary Edwards order, taken up & bury'd by his Friends in his garden. Having no coffin, it was the more offensive to y e sexton, who fel sick upon it. CYMHORTH : AID OR CONTRIBUTIONS. Akin to offerings were Cymhorthau, or aids. They consisted of presents sent upon certain occasions, such as weddings, burials, chris- tenings, etc., by neighbours to friends. A marriage in this sparsely populated parish is a rare event, but this year (1884) a well-to-do parishioner took to himself a wife, and old customs were revived, and presents flowed into his house. But these Cymhorthau are not what they have been. At one time the Cymhorth was quite an institution, and families kept a register of all things received, with the names of the donors, so that on a fitting occasion a like gift could be returned. The Rev. J. Pugh Evans, Rector of Llangar, informed the writer that he had seen a book of this sort kept in Cardiganshire by persons in affluent circumstances. In our days this class is rather above receiving Cymhorth. It has reached its last stage, and with other customs, fostered no longer by rich and poor alike, is doomed to Efenechtyd. 61 decay and disappearance. In harvest and seed time a helping hand was once forthcoming, and the laggard was not left uncared for. Cymhorth from his neighbours rescued him from his difficulties. This brotherly help is becoming rare, though genuine sympathy expressed in kind actions is still to be found in Wild Wales. The abuse of the custom led to its abandonment. In Dr. Owen Pughe's Dictionary, under the word Cymhorth, the following information is given : — Cwrw Cymhorth, ale of contribution. It is customary for poor people, in Wales, to brew ale, or to provide any other entertainment, and invite the neighbourhood to partake, when a collection is made on the occasion ; and they have priodas gymhorth, or marriage of contribution, to which every guest brings a present of some sort of provision, or money, to enable the new couple to begin the world. The clergyman formerly received Oymhorth in harvest time, and the farmers hauled anything he might require without charge. The village blacksmith's coal was also hauled by the farmers free of charge, and this act of kindness was called Cymhorth Glo, or Coal Aid. The following invitation to a wedding, which is given in an interesting and valuable paper on " Some Ancient Welsh Customs," by the Rev. E. L. Barnwell, in the Archceologia Cambrensis for 1872 (p. 330), exhibits another phase of the Cymhorthau. Mr. Barnwell found it in Peter Roberts's Cambrian Popular Antiquities (1815) : — Carmarthen, March 20, 1802. As I intend to enter the matrimonial state on Easter Monday, the igth day of April next, I am encouraged by my friends to make a Bidding on the occasion the same day at my dwelling-house, known by the sign of the " Green Dragon," in Lammas Street, where the favour of your good company is humbly solicited, and whatever donation you will be pleased to confer on me then will be gratefully received and cheerfully repaid whenever demanded on a similar occasion, by Your humble Servant, David Thomas. P.S. — The young man's mother, brother, and sister (Hannah, Richard, and Phoebe Thomas) desire that all gifts of the above nature due to them shall be returned to the young man on the same day, and will be thankful for any additional favour bestowed upon him. Mr. Barnwell adds that " the names of the visitors are registered in a book, so that the compliment may be returned on the proper occasion." OF SOME MARRIAGE CUSTOMS. Many young couples formerly attended the wedding in church. There were often as many as twenty or thirty groomsmen and bridesmaids. 62 Old Stone Crosses. There was a curious custom called running for the wedding cake, which has disappeared in the life-time of the aged. It was carried out in the following manner. As soon as the young couple were pronounced to be man and wife, the young men present in church rushed out, and started for the bride's house, and the first who arrived and announced the marriage received the wedding cake. Richard Parry, a farmer in Carnarvonshire, told me that he had run when a young man four miles against thirty young men, and beat them all, and obtained the cake. Parry, who is now growing old, occu- pies a farm called Plasuchaf, in Llanllechid parish, Carnarvonshire. Offerings appear to have been made to the clergyman in church after a wedding. Mr. Barnwell, in the article already referred to, writes : — On some occasions, at least in North Wales, where the married couple occupy a more elevated position, as that of wealthy farmers, or superior tradesmen, offerings in money are made to the officiating clergyman by all present. An instance of this occurred in Denbighshire within the last half century. Cadwneithior, or keeping the wedding feast, which usually lasted all night, is a custom which disappeared in the lives of our grand- parents. The night used to be spent in songs, merriment, and dances. Dr. Owen Pughe speaks of it as being in existence in his days, and he states that the Neithiawr was kept on a sixth day after the wedding, generally the following Sunday, when the guests brought presents to the newly married couple. In South Wales these presents were made on the wedding day, as already stated. Should a younger child in a family be married before the elder brothers or sisters, the unmarried seniors, at the marriage feast, were obliged to dance shoeless, in the presence of the company. This custom has come down to the days of the living, and a married woman, between fifty and sixty years old, told me that her brother had, upon her marriage, undergone this penalty for permitting her, a junior, to get married before him. The custom was also observed, in the case of daughters, on the other side of the Border, in Shrop- shire, and Miss Burne, in Shropshire Folk Lore (pp. 290-1), men- tions an instance at Hodnet even as late as 1881. There is an expression, occasionally heard in North Wales, which would imply that people think a marriage might be contracted by jumping over a besom. A parishioner of mine, Gwen Williams, Efenechtyd. 63 told me that she thought no more of marriage in the Registrar's office than of a marriage by jumping over a besom. Questioned about the expression, she said she had heard that in olden times people could be married by jumping over a broom-stick. From further inquiries, I find that such marriages are spoken of in many parts of North Wales, and, when properly attested, they are sup- posed to have been considered valid. GWYLMABSANT, OR WAKE OF THE PATRON SAINT. The Gwylmabsant Efenechtyd, or festival of the patron saint, was the most important annual event in the parish. The Church is dedi- cated to St. Michael, whose feast occurs at the most opportune time of the year for a rural population to enjoy themselves. The harvest is over, and winter has not arrived, and they are now at liberty to rest. This they were not loth to do. The multiplied means of amusement of these days of railway travelling did not exist fifty years ago, and consequently the agriculturists intensified their pleasures by concen- trating them into certain seasons, and then they enjoyed themselves without restraint in the midst of their friends in their own parishes. St. Michael was a favourite saint in many parts of Wales, and many churches are dedicated to him. There is in this parish a meadow designated Gweirglawdd Mihangel, or Michael's meadow. The wakes began on the Sunday before the Dedication Day, and on that Sunday it was customary for all the parishioners, arrayed in their best clothes, generally new, to attend the Church services, so that we are not surprised to hear old people say that on this day the Church was crowded to excess. It was a long feast, for it lasted until Friday evening. Dancing, singing with the harp, trials of strength and agility, and other manly sports, filled the hours of the afternoon, and, it is said, extended into the small hours of the night. Drinking to excess and fighting were not uncommon during the festivities. As long as the feast lasted, the hamlet was crowded with strangers from the surrounding parishes. A plant, the Michaelmas Daisy, which blossoms in the fall of the year, is locally called Blodau Gwylmabsant 'Nechtyd, or the blossoms of the patron saint of 'Nechtyd (Efenechtyd). It was customary for every one to wear a bunch of these flowers during the feast, and strangers begged them of the cottagers, who willingly gave a sprig, 64 Old Stone Crosses. for they had taken care to cultivate the plant lor this special purpose. Mr. Lewis Jones, Brynffynnon, a farmer in the parish, from whom I have obtained this information about the flowers, told me that his mother was in the habit of calling his attention to the approach of the wakes by saying, " Look, Lewis, the wakes are approaching, for see the saint's flowers begin to blossom." Lewis was then a small child, and he remembers his mother taking him to the wakes once and only once. Since Lewis Jones is between 40 and 50 years old, it would seem that the wakes were kept in this parish up to about 40 years ago, but they had deteriorated before this, and as far as I can judge, from many enquiries, they were not in their glory even 50 years back. But there are many old people living who remember them well, and have been present at the wakes. Mention has been made of wearing new clothes at the feast. In connection with this custom Evan Davies, wheelwright, of Bryn- llan, Efenechtyd, an old but hale man, told me the following story : — Samuel Hughes, Tydraw, tailor, who was always unusually busy about Michaelmas, remembered, on the Saturday previously to the wakes, that he had forgotten to make a pair of breeches for John Williams, of Pen-y-giaig. He thought that if he worked through Saturday night he could finish the garment, keep his word, and retain a good customer. This he did, but early on Sunday morning he was disturbed by his neighbour, who, hearing a noise in his house, thought that instead of striking file, flint, and tinder, she would procure a light from Samuel. So Nancy Jones opened the door, and was horrified to find Samuel hard at work with his needle on the Lord's Day. However, as she had come for fire, this she asked Samuel to give her, and he, without stirring from the table on which he was seated, told her to take as much as she liked. Just as Nancy was shutting the door, she said, looking towards the tailor — " Sam, Sam, the Lord will pay you for this work." " No, he won't," was Sam's rejoinder, " I am not working for Him." This story reminds one of some of the tales in Dean Ramsay's Reminiscences, which combine levity and wit. Samuel lies in Efenechtyd Churchyard under the shadow of the east wall of the Church, and on his gravestone are these words : — Here lieth the body of Samuel Hughes, Tydraw, Tailor, was buried June 2ist, 1832, aged 69. Efenechtyd, 65 This date marks not only Samuel's death, but also within a few years that of the Gwylmabsant. In other parts of Wales the celebra- tion of the wakes has likewise disappeared within the last thirty or forty years. The rising generation in this parish do not even know the time when the wakes were observed, and when the old people are gone, the remembrance of the once celebrated festival will have disappeared. It was the dissipation, the brutal fights and bickerings, that brought about the end of these feasts. They included much that was innocent and pleasurable. The dancing, penillion singing, games and sports, and trials of strength, in themselves are unobjec- tionable, and they are conducive to manly and chivalrous conduct. When we look at the state of the country, and the admiration which physical strength accompanied with bravery ever commands, we can understand how the wakes, notwithstanding their failings, lasted so long. Again, it is not to be wondered at that such a merry-making as this was popular, nor that it was looked forward to by young and old alike, for, in fact, it had become a part of the social system of the country. Parochial events were remembered by their having occurred so many weeks, or months, before or after the Gwylmabsant. The first goose was killed in this week. The potato harvest began on the Wednesday in the wakes. Hospitality was profuse, and distant friends were welcomed to every house in the parish. Natives who had settled down in other parts came home for the wakes. In this way friendships were cemented, and old acquaintances renewed. Boys and girls who had gone to service once more visited home, and recounted to willing ears their joys and troubles. They, in return, received the history of the parish. Happy were these re- unions that brought annually together a whole parish, and suffered no one to forget, through lapse of years, the features of an early friend. Such re-unions as these gave an individuality to parochial life and fostered parish patriotism, but, on the other hand, they often generated antagonisms between parish and parish, which lasted longer than the wakes. Opposing champions ended, not unfrequently, their struggles for pre-eminence in sports, by an appeal to brute force and dogged courage. In this way parish became opposed to parish, and wherever the young men belonging to different parishes met they fought savagely, from no personal animosity, but from a mistaken notion 66 Old Stone Crosses. that it was a duty incumbent upon them to settle in this way old parochial misunderstandings ; or battles were fought because some feud of remote, unknown origin existed between one parish and another. The riotings attending the wakes in other parts than Wales have been the subject of injunctions ; and in consequence of abuses endeavours were made to put them down. As early as the time of Edward VI., in 1548, appears an injunction given by his Majesty against the observing of wakes in the Deanery of Duncastre, which presumedly extended to other parts. It is : — Forasmuch as drunkenness, idleness, brawls, dissentions, and many other inconveniences do chance between neighbor and neighbor, by the assembly of people together at wakes, and on the plough mundays ; it is therefore ordered and enjoyned, that hereafter the people shall use, make, or observe no more such wakes, plough mundays, or drawing of the same with any such assembly or rout of people, or otherwise, as hath been accustomed, upon pain of forfeiting to the king's highness forty shillings for every default, to be paid by the owner of the plough and householder, whereunto the said plough is drawn, or wakes are kept. — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 29. Injunctions of this kind, as already shown, if they ever reached Wales, were powerless instruments of reform, for the people clung most tenaciously, in spite of prohibitions emanating even from the highest authorities, to the customs of their country. EFENECHTYD GAMES. These consisted of many rustic sports that required strength, suppleness, and coolness, on the part of the performers. Of British games there were twenty-four. They are enumerated in Dr. Davies's Dictionary, and also by Pennant. The three manly qualifications were, " Bywiowgrwydd, Nerth, a Synnwyr," i.e., activity or liveliness, strength, and skill. The twenty-four games were supposed to cul- tivate these threefold manly qualities. Such games as required no instrument whatever in their performance, and depended mainly on bodily strength, or on the man naked as he was born, were the most popular. There were many days in the 3'ear on which these games were practised, such as on the afternoon of Festivals, Easter- tide, Wakes, and Sunday afternoons, and old people say that although their forefathers had so many holidays, they lived quite as well as people do in these days, Efenechtyd. 67 There is a relic of these ancient games called Y Maen Camp, or feat stone, in the churchyard of Efenechtyd. It is a ponderous boulder stone, weighing 101 lbs. The camp, or feat, was to lift this stone and throw it over the head backwards, and he was the hero who could throw this huge stone the furthest. Many of these stones are still in existence in various parts of Wales. Trials of strength and dexterity with this stone at Efenechtyd took place on the north side of the churchyard, where there are to this day but few graves. No account of former days can be a faithful record unless some allusion is made to the personal conflicts which too often took place even on Sunday in the church or churchyard, as well as on other days, and in other places, between men who hated not each other, but who strove for the palm of pre-eminence in muscular strength. The hero of the parish was the man who excelled all others in personal prowess, and when bravery was accompanied with noble- ness of conduct, the expert pugilist was the admired of men and maidens ; but he had to pay dearly for his renown. He was hence- forth the parish champion, and on all fitting occasions upon him was placed the responsibility of vindicating the honour of the parish. The excess to which this fighting propensity ran was prohibited by early law-makers. In the Cyfreithiau Hywel Dda, the Laws of Howel the Good, a.d. 928, fighting is forbidden in the churchyard or sanctuary under penalty of heavy fines : — For fighting within the churchyard , fourteen pounds are to be paid ; if out of the churchyard in the sanctuary, seven pounds are to be paid. — Haddon and Stubbs, Councils and Ecclesiastical Documents, vol. i., p. 243. Passing over much evidence of fighting and disturbances, in the interval between a.d. 928 and Edward VI., we come to an Act passed in this king's reign, which is partly quoted in the Ecclesiastical Courts Commission (pp. 204-5). The Commissioners state that " there was a time when disturbances in the church and churchyard, from various trifling causes, were of frequent occurrence, and sometimes carried to great extremities, for the suppression of which the Legislature was induced to pass an Act in the reign of Edward VI. (5 & 6 Edw. VI., c. 4), which still remains unrepealed." In the Preamble to this Act it is said that — Of late many outrageous and barbarous behaviours and acts have been used and committed by divers ungodly and irreligious persons by quar- relling, brawling, fraying, and fighting openly in churches and churchyards. I 68 Old Stone Crosses, To prevent the continuance of this reprehensible conduct, the statute enacted that those who quarrel, chide, or brawl in church or churchyard shall be liable to suspension, if a layman, ab ingressu ecclesice ; if a clerk, from the ministration of his office for so long a time as the Ordinary shall think fit. By the third section of this statute, persons maliciously striking any other with any weapon, or drawing any weapon with intention of striking, upon conviction were to lose one ear, and if the offender had no ear he was to be branded on the cheek with a hot iron, having the letter F on it. The spirit of this law was in full accord with the spirit of the times, and if it succeeded in driving quarrels and fights from consecrated places, it was not successful in its latent meaning that battles should cease, for these continued to flourish up to recent times. A few stories which I have heard of these fights may be worth telling. Lewis Jones, Brynffynnon, informed me that a young man was killed in an open fight, and one who had witnessed the shocking occurrence went to inform the father of the deceased of his son's death: When told that his son had been killed, the father inquired whether he had shown the white feather. " Oh, no," said the man ; " he died fighting." " Well," said the father, " what matters it, since he has died like a man ! " Thomas Jones, Perthi, in the upper part of this parish, told me that Dolly Jones, Pengeulan, Bettws-Gwerfil-Goch, was informed by her children, on coming home from school, that one of their brothers had fought, and had been beaten by a lad in the school. When this boy appeared, the mother said, " Go, and lick that boy that licked thee, or thou shalt never have a bit to eat nor a drop to drink in this house!" The boy went, and came back with the tidings that he had done his mother's bidding. In conversation in Mr. Lloyd's house, Post Office, Llanfihangel- Glyn-Myfyr, one of the company told me that a woman in those parts was in the habit of acting as her husband's second in his battles. When remonstrated with because of her unwomanly conduct, she replied, " I would rather carry his bones home in my apron than that he should be beaten ! " A friend of mine told me of a fight that took place at Llanbedr, Carnarvonshire, between two champions, the one seconded by a strong lusty man, the other by his sister, The woman saw that her Efenechtyd. 6g brother was often thrown to the ground, and supposing or perceiving that his antagonist's second played him foul, she went up to him, struck him in the face, and laid him level with the ground ; and then she challenged any spectator who thought her conduct blameworthy to step forward and take the place of her prostrate foe. With one more tale I will end this chapter. A young brave of well-known mettle was challenged by another to a fight. He refused, but a little while afterwards, walking with his companion, he reminded him of this challenge, and told him that they would there and then have it out, at the same time giving his reasons for in the first instance refusing the combat. His companion was anxious to avoid the conflict, but he was told that this was impossible ; so they proceeded to a field, and stripped for the onslaught. A long, fierce fight followed, but at last the man who had challenged the other lay on the ground unable to move. When requested to get up to resume the battle, he said he could not. " Then," said the other, "you give in." "Yes, I give in." "Then let's go home," and, suiting the action to the words, the conqueror put on his clothes, and started away. The man on the ground shouted out, " You won't leave me here all night ;" upon which his antagonist returned, assisted the man to dress, and, as he was unable to walk, carried him on his back a long distance to his home. FLINT. CHURCHYARD CROSS. N a sketch of the old parish church of Flint, taken in 1800 by Mr. D. Parkes for the Gentleman'' s Magazine, where it appeared January, 1801, and now repro- duced in Mr. Taylor's History of Flint, is to be seen on the south side of the church the towering shaft of the Churchyard Cross, but the capstone does- not appear in this drawing. The pedestal seems to have been a massive square block, chamfered, and the shaft was a tapering octagonal, brought at the base apparently to a square. When the present Church was being built by the Rev. T. B. LI. Browne, now Rector of Bodfari, but then perpetual curate of Flint, a portion of the head- stone of a Cross was discovered in taking down the old church wall. This relic, Mr. Browne informed me, passed into the pos- session of Mr. Roskell, a Catholic gentle- man, and lately I was fortunate enough to find that it was still extant, and care- fully preserved by Mrs. Roskell, widow of the gentleman above named. In company with the Rev. W. LI. Nicholas, Rector of Flint, I went in search of the stone, and to our great delight we found it in a grotto at Stockyn, the beautifully situated resi- dence of Mrs. Roskell; and, through the courtesy of this lady, I am able to produce a sketch of the Cross. The stone measures 2 feet broad, and 3 feet 2 inches long. It is much worn and mutilated. Within a richly-decorated cinquefoil Flint. J l niche is a carving of the Crucifixion. On each side of the cross are figures, St. John and the Virgin. The head of our Lord, and also the heads of the Virgin and the Apostle, have been knocked off. St. John carries a book in his left hand ; the right hand is raised to support the head, which apparently was turned towards our Saviour. The Virgin is considerably mutilated ; the hands are seen meeting across the breast. Over the figures is a rich ogee crocketed canopy, the crockets, as usual, being sculptured with foliage. The finial consists of three parts. One only of the shafts from which the arch rises is intact ; the other has disappeared, and only one of the pinnacles remains. The Cross belongs probably to the latter end of the thirteenth or the early part of the fourteenth century. The shaft, which probably was in existence up to the time of the building of the new Church in 1847-8, has disappeared, and very likely it has been broken up ; but if it could be found, it would be in good taste to restore the Cross to its original position. CROES ATI. This Cross stood somewhere in the village of Pentre, about a mile from the town of Flint. The exact spot is unknown, but the late Rector of the parish, the Rev. E. Jenkins, told the writer that it stood somewhere near, if not on, the site of the new church, St. David's, which he erected. Be this as it may, the Cross, in part, existed in Pennant's time, for he states (Tour in Wales, Car- narvon edition, vol. i., p. 68) : — "About a mile from the town, on the lower road to Chester, stood a cross, whose pedestal I remember, which was called Atis-cross, and the land around is still called Crors- ati. This probably was a place of note ; for, at the Conquest, it gave a name to a very considerable Hundred, at that time con- sidered as part of Cheshire." The Hundred mentioned by Pennant still bears the name it had at the time the Domesday Book was compiled, viz., the Hundred of Atiscross. The fact that the Cross gave the name to the Hundred at a very remote period shows its early existence, and also the high repute in which it was held. It is to be regretted that the pedestal seen by Pennant has dis- appeared ; its preservation would have been a link between ages Jong past and our days. GWYDDELWERN HERE is no cross in Gwyddelwern churchyard, but a sun-dial occupies the spot where probably at one time stood the churchyard cross. The dial stands opposite the Priest's Door, midway between it and the churchyard wall ; thus it is in the same relative position as is the old cross in Cilcen churchyard. There is nothing ancient belonging to the dial. It stands on three steps, and on one of the stones are the following initials and figures — RP GT WR WAR 1760— thus marking the date of its erection, and the probable disappearance of what remained, up to that date, of the churchyard cross. 1 N-«- W s&* XJ3 THE CHURCHYARD. ITS SHAPE. The churchyard is, for a considerable part of its extent, oval or somewhat circular in form. On the east and south sides the wall is well built, and this part seems to be the oldest portion of the boundary. The north and west sides have been tampered with, and these deviate from the circular, and in parts- are almost straight, but even here traces of a different course are discernible. There have been encroachments on the east side, and several buildings have been erected in the churchyard in that part, and the wall has there been altered so as to enable the tenant of an adjoining building to have access to the garden behind his house. But still, through all these accom- modating alterations, the wall maintains its circular character. '* ■**' The churchyard of Gwyddelwern is not singular in its peculiar shape. There are several churches in North Wales that are DIAL D Owyddelwern, 73 surrounded by walls almost, if not altogether, circular. In Mont- gomeryshire,- Llanfihangel, Llangadfan, Kerry, Berriew, and Llan- fechain churchyards are more or less round. In the latter place the parish road follows the circular bend of the churchyard for about two-thirds of its entire circumference. Llandrinio churchyard was once circular, if its size and shape are indicated by the old yew trees that stand on the west and south sides of the church, but at present the churchyard • expends beyond the trees. In Denbighshire there are many circular churchyards. In or about the Vale of Clwyd the following churches have this characteristic feature : — Derwen, Llanelidan, Efenechtyd, Llandyrnog, and Tremeirchion. Cilcen, Llanarmon, Cerrig-y-drudion, and Bettws-Gwerfil-Goch, also have churchyards which are more or less ovoidal in form. The peculiarity is worthy of notice, for so many burial grounds could hardly be accidentally of this shape. They must have been thus formed designedly, and it is difficult not to associate these round church- yards with the remains of prehistoric times of similar form. Thus we have dating from most ancient times circular camps, homesteads and huts ; circular carneddi, or heaps of stones covering the dead, circumscribed by a circle of erect stones; and the cist faen, or stone coffin, with its surrounding stone circle. Then we have, along the hills of Wales, England, Scotland, Ireland, France, and other countries, large circles of stones, some for funeral, some for unknown, and some for religious purposes. If an inference may be drawn from similarity of form, then these circular churchyards and the stone circles of the prehistoric age are in some way connected with one another. The circle as an emblem existed in very distant times, and the veneration in which it was held is shown by its reproduction in domestic, national, and religious buildings. Even if these ovoidal churchyards are not the identical spots on which the ancient inhabitants celebrated their pagan rites, they are, in form, a connecting link between the paganism of our forefathers and the Christian religion which supplanted it. They may have been spots of ground dedicated to religious purposes in pagan times, and appropriated by the early Christians, in consequence of their previous use, to the celebration of the Christian religion, and hence the peculiar shape of these churchyards. Mr. Brash in his Ogam Inscribed Stones (p. 109), speaking of Irish churches, says, "It is well known that many of our early churches were 74 Old Stone Crosses. erected on sites professedly pagan." This may have been the case in Wales, notwithstanding the many orders of the early councils to destroy pagan temples. These injunctions, indeed, imply the preservation of those temples, and their conversion into Christian churches, to the great disquietude and reprobation of the members of the council: hence the order for their destruction; but we know not to what extent those orders were obeyed. As injunctions in modern times were disregarded, so likewise, it is probable, were these ancient decrees. A careful collection of facts connected with churches in circular churchyards wherever found, and an equally careful collation of such facts, will throw more light upon this subject than we now possess. I shall, when treating of Llangernyw Crosses, revert to the subject now under consideration. BURIAL OF SUICIDES. Up to the year 1823 suicides were buried in cross-roads, at mid- night, without religious service, and the body was subjected to in- dignities. After this date they were buried by night on the north side of the churchyard. Robert Hughes, Tyissa, Efenechtyd, aged 82, remembers a burial in the cross-road by Eglwys Wen (Whitchurch), Denbigh, but he does not recollect what the man had done to be buried there. A few years ago I made the acquaintance of an old man, a native of Gwyddelwern, who told me that he remembered a person who had hung himself being buried underneath the church- yard wall, at night, at Gwyddelwern. Amelia Pierce, the keeper of the churchyard keys, who is still alive, and 68 years old, told me that she remembered the burial of the servant girl of Wern-ddu, who took away her own life, and she was buried by night, without service, close by the north wall of the churchyard at Gwyddelwern. These sad occurrences made an indelible impression on the spectators. Mention is made of these cross-road burials in Samuel Carter Hall's Retrospect of a Long Life (vol. i., p. 45). Mr. Hall writes: — Fifty years ago the bodies of suicides were subjected to shocking indignities. They were by law ordered to be buried at midnight, at cross- roads, and a hedgestake driven through the body. No religious rites were permitted, and a hole was dug where two roads crossed each other, often in a lonely, solitary spot, and at midnight, with or without torches, lanterns, or candles, the body was placed, usually coffinless, in the hole, a Gwyddelwern . 75 stake driven right through the chest or bowels into the ground beneath, and the grave filled in. In 1823 the practice was by Act of Parliament abolished, and it was enacted that the bodies of suicides might in future be buried in any ordinary churchyard, between the hours of 9 and 12 at night, without any religious ceremony, the interment to be private, and to take place 24 hours from the finding of the inquisition by the coroner. It is probable that the burial mentioned above as taking place under- neath the churchyard wall, which was taken down for that purpose, was before the repeal of the statute, or custom, legalizing cross- road burials, and was a compromise by the people of Gwyddelwern between their humanity and regard for the law ; and the burial mentioned by Amelia Pierce evidently took place in agreement with the Act 4, Geo. IV., c. 52, that directed which after 8th July, 1823, suicides were to be buried in churchyards 24 hours from the finding of the inquisition, between the hours of g and 12 at night, without any marks of ignominy, such as having a stake driven through their bodies ; but no mention is made in the Act as to whether they were to be buried with or without the rites of Christian burial. The Rev. David Roberts, Rector of Llanelidan, Ruthin, informed me that when the cross roads that meet by the churchyard were lowered, human bones were discovered, and he accounted for the presence of these bones by supposing that they belonged to some one, such as a suicide, who was considered unworthy of Christian burial in consecrated ground. Mr. Roberts stated that the bones were near the churchyard wall. CHURCH WALL PAINTINGS. Previously to the judicious restoration of Gwyddelwern Church in 1882 by the Hon. C. H. Wynn, of Rug, the old church, while pre- senting a deserted and neglected appearance, contained, nevertheless, many objects of considerable antiquarian and ecclesiastical interest. The walls were decorated with Scripture texts, memorial tablets, and other monuments. It was one of the last churches restored in the diocese of St. Asaph, and as such was worthy of notice. It contained much that belonged to pre- Reformation times, but these had been mutilated or were unused. The old screen had been cut down ; the Priest's Door, with its massive wooden bolt, which had a socket penetrating far into the wall, was closed, and guarded by spiders. The north-side door was built up, and the space occupied J 76 Old Stone Crosses. by a cupboard. The font was whitewashed, and was dirty. Children, when baptized, were baptized with water in a basin placed within the font. There were in the church seats belonging to three, if not to four, distinct periods. The chancel and nave were covered with large slabs of stone, commemorative of the dead. The stained glass had been smashed, but pieces were preserved in the various windows. Many a churchwarden had " improved" the fabric, and complacently informed future generations that he had done so. Thus, there was a painted notice telling the spectator that the saddleback roof of the chancel had been hidden from view by plastering : — " This wood was plaster'd by Ellis Davies. Humphrey Pierce, Thomas Hughes, Churchwardens, 1730." And on the lower beam in the west-end gallery was inscribed the name of " Gabriel Hughes, 1634," followed by a verse from the Bible indicating that Hughes had either erected the gallery or improved it. But my special purpose was to mention the Scripture texts painted upon the walls. The texts in this Church were not old. There were no black letter inscriptions on the walls : all dated from the last or the previous century. It appears from the following extract from the Concilia that the painting of verses from the Bible on church walls began in England during the reign of Edward VI., and was the out- come of the Reformation. In that age the whitewash brush was used extensively, and pictures drawn on the church walls in previous years were washed over, and in their place painted texts appeared. According to an injunction of Edward VI., pictures and paintings in churches were to be destroyed, and from the mandate of Bishop Bonner, 1554, a.d., it appears that texts had taken the place of these paintings. I will quote so much of the Bishop's mandate as refers to this matter :— Because some children of iniquity, given up to carnal desires and novelties, have by many ways enterprized to banish the ancient manner and order of the church, and to bring in and establish sects and heresies ; taking from thence the picture of Christ, and many things besides, instituted and observed in ancient times laudably in the same, placing in the room thereof such things as in such place it behoveth them not to do ; and also have procured as a stay to their heresies (as they thought) certain Scriptures wrongly applyed, to be painted upon the church walls. . . . . Wheresoever any such Scriptures or paintings have been attempted, that they abolish and extinguish such manner of Scriptures, so that by no means they be either read or seen, — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 108, Gwyddelwern. yy This extract accounts for the disappearance of ancient paintings from church walls, and the substitution of texts in their place. There is abundant proof that in Wales, pictures, possibly of Christ, were washed over, and instead, texts, or some other substitutes, were placed on the church walls. There is hardly an old church which has undergone restoration, that has not, on the removal of the wash, shown traces of successive ornamentation, the lowest being ancient frescoes, and over these texts or other inscriptions. Neither can there be much doubt as to the age of these latter designs or texts. They date from the sixteenth to the eighteenth century. I will give a few instances of these discoveries. The Rev. David Jones, Rector of Llanfechain, Montgomeryshire, lately restored his church, and in an interesting account which he kindly gave me of the successive decorations discovered on the walls, he says : — " The oldest decorations on the walls of our church were red lines branching and curved ; later, were texts. There were also on the upper surfaces some bright red and blue lines, forming apparently the framing of some memorial inscription with a cherub's head at the top, much like what is often seen on tombstones. We could make out amongst the latter inscriptions some words of the Creed on the north wall." At the restoration of Clocaenog Church, near Ruthin, fresco paintings were brought to view, one on each side of the large east window. The Rev. W. Jones, Rector of the parish, described these paintings as follows. One was the figure of a man, about two yards long, with shaven face, and what appeared to be a breastplate on his breast. There were letters, in character like Hebrew, connected with this figure, but so obliterated as to be unreadable. The other figure was also that of a man, full size, canonically robed, and holding a pastoral staff with its head turned inwards. The eyes were particularly bright, and the figure had a beard. There were indistinct letters about this figure ; and also along the north wall were traces of paintings. Meliden Church, which is being restored, upon the removal of plaster and whitewash, was ascertained to have had formerly a succession of wall paintings or inscriptions, the one taking the place of the other. On the east wall was found in black letter a portion of the Creed in Welsh, and over it traces of coloured lines, but the design could not be made out. On the south wall adjoining the east 7§ Old Stone Crosses. side is an English inscription, and over it is a Welsh inscription. Both were in painted frames or borders, and they were alike covered over with whitewash. There are other traces of wall paintings in this church. The same state of things existed in churches in South Wales. When the church at Bettws, Carmarthenshire, was being restored in 1873, the Rev. M. Hughes, the Vicar, discovered underneath the whitewash fresco paintings, the Creed and Commandments. The fine fourteenth-century fresco, brought to light in the restora- tion of Ruabon Church in 1870, shows the kind of paintings destroyed by ignorant fanaticism, for there is certainly nothing objectionable in this fresco, which has been judiciously preserved, and which had for ages been hidden underneath successive layers of whitewash. Many other instances might be given of wall paintings covered over. Sometimes the whitewash was laid on the walls wantonly ; possibly, in some instances, it was used carelessly from a disregard for all such things ; and doubtless, at other times, the figures and letters having in time become worn, to remedy all defects, the brush was resorted to. I have said that the inscriptions in Gwyddelwern Church were not old. From an inscription within a painted frame on the south wall in the chancel it seems that they were executed in the last century. The inscription was as follows : — " Mr. Edward Wynne, Vicar, Thomas Humphreys, William Edwards, Thomas Hughes, Church Wardens, 1745. Thomas Davies, Painter." BURYING IN CHURCH. When any old church is restored, proof is forthcoming, in the abundance of human bones, that burials innumerable have taken place there. This practice, now no more, dates from olden days. Thus in the reign of Edgar, when S. Dunstan was Archbishop of Canterbury, such burials were common, and they are mentioned in the canons issued in 960 a.d., and their too common occurrence condemned. The canon states : — XXIX. Docemus etiam, ut in ecclesia nemo sepeliatur, nisi sciatur quod in vita Deo bene placuerit, ut inde judicetur, quod sit sepultura dignus. — Concilia, vol. i., p. 227. Here burial within the precincts of the church is made consequent upon the good living of the defunct, but it is for the purpose of (jwyddelwern. 79 showing that these burials in church date from ancient days that this quotation is given. The prevalence and antiquity of this practice are also evident from the following extracts taken by Wilkins from the Liber Legum Ecclesiasticarum. Its date is 994 a.d. : — Antiquus erat mos in his regionibus, mortuos homines frequenter in ecclesiis sepelire, et loco, quae ad Dei ministerium sanctificata, et con- secrata erant ad offerendum, ipsi facere coemeteria. Jam nolumus abhinc, ut aliquis in ecclesia sepeliatur, nisi fit vir sacerdotalis ordinis, aut etiam tarn Justus laicus, ut sciatur quod vivus propter meritum vitae suae talem locum corpus suum ibi reponendi promeruerit. Nolumus tamen ut corpora, quae prius in ecclesia sepulta erant, ejiciantur, sed tumuli, ubi appareant, ut utrum horum (eligatur) vel profundius ilia in terra sepeliantur, vel transitus super ea'fiat et aequaliter ac convenienter cum ecclesiae pavi- mento condantur, ut nullus tumulus ibi videatur. Si autem in aliquo loco tot tumulti sint, ut hoc difficile sit factu, tunc sinant loca ilia coemeteria esse, et auferatur altare inde, et in purum locum ponatur, et ibi ecclesiae sint, ubi Deo reverenter et pure offerri possit. — Concilia, vol. i., pp. 267-8. The words " antiquus erat mos " prove that even in the year 994 a.d. the custom referred to was an ancient one, and the quota- tion further shows that it had become necessary to place some restraint on such burials ; that their frequency caused inequalities in the surface of the church, and turned God's house into a cemetery. The custom was not confined to one part of the country, but prevailed in Wales as much as in England. In the year 1556 a.d., Thomas Goldwell, Bishop of St. Asaph, thought it necessary to issue an injunction, in which, among other matters, interment within the precints of the church is mentioned. From the Bishop's words it appears that burials within the church were not only of common occurrence, but that the people without let or hindrance claimed the privilege of burying there, and his lordship endeavours to restrict this practice. The injunction states : — That no man, of what degre or condycyon soever he be, be buryed wythin the precynt of the chyrch, without the consent of the church- wardens, except he have a chappell of hys owne, or fryndes byldyng, and that no man be buryed in the chancel without the consent of the parson or vycar. Item, That he that ys buryed in the chyrch, havyng no chappell of hys owne, shall pay to the chyrchwardens toward the reparacyons of the chyrch VI.s. VIILd. and he that ys buryed in the chancell, shall .paye to 80 Old Stone Crosses. hym, that hath the care of the reparacyons of the chancell, X.s. and the pryst that buryeth-any man contrary to this injunction, shall pay the sayd money to the chyrch, or chancell hymself. — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 145. This brings the history of interments in churches to the middle of the sixteenth century, and we have only to go into unrestored churches to find that the custom knew but little, if any abatement, in the eighteenth century. There is in Llanychan churchyard, which is about two miles from Ruthin, a flat stone with this inscription : — Here, vnder the first stone in this holy grovnd, lyeth the body of Elizabeth vch Robert, who dyed 21 of Jan. 1672. The Rev. D. R. Thomas thinks this refers to the introduction of tombstones into churchyards, but it might also point to a departure from the custom of burying in churches. But if it did so, the example was not generally followed in and about the Vale of Clwyd, for there is hardly an old church in the whole district that is not flagged with stones commemorative of the dead who departed this life during the last century. The inscriptions usually are short and simple, and generally consist of a few words, which give us scant in- formation. On one flag in Gwyddelwern Church in the chancel were these words : — Yma y claddwyd Evan Hughes or Hendre Chwefror 17 ei oed 84. Ag Alice Roberts ei wraig Mai 31 yn y flwyddyn 1796. This stone informs us that — " Here were buried Evan Hughes, of Hendre, February 17, aged 84, and Alice Roberts, his wife, May 31, in the year 1796." It is worthy of notice that Hughes's wife retained after marriage, in accordance with a Welsh custom, her maiden name. The large majority of stones in Gwyddelwern Church have on them a few initials and dates, and members of the same family doubtless slept in the same grave. One instance of this will suffice. It is or was on a stone in the chancel : — C W S W 1724 I W 1753 Many a brass plate on the seats in churches tells us that " under- neath this seat " was buried so and so ; therefore it was a custom for Gwyddelwern. 81 persons to be buried under the spot which, when living, they occupied in church. Not only was the body of the church used as a cemetery," but even underneath the church walls have people been buried. Quantities of human bones were discovered below the foundation stones at Llanbedr Church, near Conway, and on the restoration of Meliden Church, near Rhyl, the whole floor was found filled with bones, and the south wall had also been undermined to make room for graves, and it was a matter of surprise that the wall had not [given way in the process of excavation. The practice of burying in church has ceased in our days, except that sometimes a family vault, which has not been filled, continues to be used. CHURCH SEATS. Curious is the information supplied by the old seats in churches. Those in Gwyddelwern belonged to many periods. There were in the chancel ancient benches made of huge blocks of oak. (Fig. I.). In the nave were pews with panels of Jacobean carving. (Fig. IV.). Then came on the north side old open seats and benches, and on the west side, extending partly underneath the gallery, a sheep-pen like set of seats, bearing date 1707. There was no uniformity between "^^C" these productions of various Fi s- i- periods. A portion of the floor in the old church was also bare, having no kind of seats. The markings and inscriptions on some of the benches show that seats were appropriated at an early period, and that contests for their possession took place. There is a curious instance of this in the inscriptions on one of the benches in the chancel, formerly adjoining the north wall. At both extremities of the bench are initials. One is D W, but partially hiding these letters is a brass plate (a, Fig. II.), with these words on it, " David Davies, Tymawr, ' w, t .,.:.. sitting. At the Llan 1816." Thus Davies claims D W's 82 Old Stone Crosses. other end of the bench cut into the seat are the letters G L ; these are left undisturbed, but nailed into the centre of the bench is another brass plate (2, Fig. II.) claiming the whole bench : — "This bench belonging to Hugh Hughes, Plasau Le Derm Moisdel' Anne, 181 — ." Thus H. Hughes ousts all comers, and claims the whole seat or bench for himself. Fig. 11. On other benches in this part of the church are initials, or names of persons, or farms, cut into the wood with or without lines of demarcation between each sitting. (Fig. TIL). R.Wynne, Meyarth, claims a whole seat, but to M: I: Esq 1 ' on another bench only ig inches are allotted. On another bench, "I + R + Clegir," gets 38m., while "I + R + Brindu" has 40m. to his share. The Dynant people get 39m., &c. The seats in the chancel are old, probably the oldest in the church. (Fig. I.) Nonails are used in their make. The seats are dove-tailed into a thick plank on the side next the wall, and at the other end they are mortised into an upright bench end. The structure is of massive oak. The bench is 4 inches thick. There are no backs to the seats. There benches in the chancel ; also a stall-like wardens' seat. The pews in front of and about the pulpit, which stands against the north wall, close to the site of the screen, are high-backed box were two sets of these chair, and the church- Gwyddelwern. 83 seats. The oldest are those about the pulpit. The panels contain excellent Jacobean carvings representing birds and drag- ons. On the breast of one of the dragons is engraved a cross (Fig. IV.). From the inscriptions on the box seats, opposite the pulpit, we gather that they were placed in the Flg ' IV- Church in the early part of the eighteenth century. Thus, one panel has engraved upon it the initials " T : H 1743"; another, " H ^ M MDCCV." On the reading desk is carved, " Cronogr : Dirigatvr • oratio ' nostra ■ qvasi • incesvm • in ■ visv ■ patris ■ gratie sedes impens : R° : Davies strvcta in vsvm paroche Gwyddelwern." The workmanship of the wood engraver is exquisite; the poise of some of the birds, admirable ; and the grouping, artistic. These engravings belong to the seventeenth century, and they are a credit to it, even if the high seats themselves may not be so described. The height to which pews were built was the cause of offences which are mentioned in the following order, given by Bishop Wren, of Norwich, in 1636 : — That the chancels and alleys in the church be not incroached upon by building seats ; and if any be so built, the same to be removed and taken away, and that no pews be made over high so that they, which be in them, cannot be seen how they behave themselves, or the prospect of the church or chancel be hindered ; and therefore that all pews, which within do much exceed a yard in height, be taken down near to that scantling, unless the bishop by his own inspection, or by the view of some special commissioners, shall otherwise allow. — Concilia, vol. iv. p. 527. Appropriated seats in this, as well as in other churches, had locks to keep out intruders, and often churches were almost filled with such pews ; and where this was the case, to avoid bickerings, the public were informed which were free by cutting into them the words, Maingc y plwy, parish seat. But, as already stated, benches even were claimed by parishioners, who, to show their claim, cut into them their initials. This practice was common throughout Wales, so that, even where there were no Jacobean pews, benches or seats, by constant occupation by the same party, ultimately 84 Old Stone Crosses. became private property. The churchwardens, therefore, as ne- cessity arose, were obliged to provide parish seats. An instance of this occurs in Gwyddelwern Church. The open seats in the chancel had become the property of individuals, and consequently accommodation had to be provided for such parishioners as had no sittings. Ten benches, roughly constructed, with a rest for the back, answered this purpose, and they stood next to the high- backed seats, on the north wall. There is only one single initial on these benches, and the person whom they represent was a person of note, for he is styled Esquire. The letters are " R P EsqV Whenever this set of benches was made, wood from the old screen was used in their construction. The blocks of wood upon which the benches rested belonged to the screen. The upper part of the old rood-screen was removed, no one knows when, but that portions of it were used up in these seats suggests the reason of its removal. 1'he lower part of the screen, in 1880, was in its original position, and several of its carved panels remained undisturbed. HALKYN, FLINTSHIRE. CHURCHYARD CROSS. LL that remains of Halkyn Churchyard Cross is a portion of the head-stone, which very properly has been built into one of the buttresses of the mag- nificent structure lately erected in the place of the old parish church, by the munificence of the Duke of Westminster. I am informed by the Rev. Walter Evans, Rector of the parish, that he observed the part of the Cross, which has been preserved, a sketch of which is here given, lying about in the belfry of the old church, and that it was used by the bell-ringer as a rest for his foot. Though the old church has been razed to the ground, the outlines of the building can be traced ; but I failed to discover the site of the Churchyard Cross. It appears from Domesday that there was then a church at Halkyn, or, as it is there called, Alchene ; so there must have been in olden times in the churchyard a cross ; probably it disappeared when the Church was re-built in 1776, but by accident a part of it escaped destruction, and has come down to our day, and is cared for in the manner stated above. The part of the Cross which has been preserved is mutilated, but the Crucifixion scene engraved upon it is sufficiently legible. The stone measures about 25 inches long by about 15 inches broad. The niche was originally cinque-foiled, but a part of the top has dis- appeared. In the figure of our Lord the head has been knocked off, and the legs and arms are all but worn away. There are two figures, one on each side of the Cross, with their faces turned upwards, as if contemplating the Saviour. These represent, most probably, the 86 Old Stone Crosses. Virgin and St. John. The Apostle supports his head with his right hand, and he holds a book in his left. The Virgin's hands clasp on her breast something which is not clearly traceable. The calvary is supported underneath by an angel with extended wings, and on its head is a small cross. A part of the left-hand corner has been broken off, and pieces of the left border have also been chipped away. The workmanship of the side figures, and angel underneath, is good, and possibly, when perfect, this remark might with justice be applied to the whole, but the hands of our Lord now appear to have been rudely executed. The Cross belongs probably to the fourteenth century. HENLLAN. vwM|f50j III VILLAGE CROSS. HERE is at present no Cross in Henllan village, but I am indebted to the courtesy of the late Mr. Townshend Mainwaring of Gallt-faenan for a copy of a small drawing of the Church and detached tower, in 'which the Village Cross forms a conspicuous feature. Mr. Mainwaring informed me that the sketch was a copy of an engraving in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, but he could not tell the date of its execution. Upon reference to the drawing, which is here exactly reproduced, it will be seen that the Village Cross stood close to the churchyard gate, in a recess, between the tower and the entrance to the churchyard. The shaft, evidently a long one, appears without the head-stone, so that it had already been tampered with. The socket, or pedestal of the Cross, is shown in the sketch, and apparently it was a huge flat stone. This is about all that can be said of this Cross. But the date of its removal is a question of some importance. The Church has under- gone two " restorations" in this century, one in 1807-8, and the other in 1878-g, and between these two dates the Village Churches of Denbighshire was published by Messrs. Lloyd- Williams and Underwood, in which there is an accurate drawing of Henllan Church as it was after the alterations of 1807-8. In this drawing the Cross does not appear, nor the two dormer-windows and church porch, which are delineated in the vignette given above. 88 Old Stone Crosses. The alterations, therefore, of 1807-8 were extensive. It is stated in the Village Churches that the church walls were raised to an unnecessary height in 1807-8, and the remains of the older structure either used up in them, or scattered through the village. It is very likely that the Church was then raised to make room for the west-end gallery, which in 1878-9 was entirely removed. A supporting column of this gallery was, in Mr. Mainwaring's opinion, the shaft of the Village Cross. This most likely was the case ; for, as a pillar for the gallery this octagonal stone was incongruous, but as a shaft of a cross it was, as to material, form, and size, an exact representation of many other crosses. It is not unlikely that, at the extensive alterations which the Church underwent in 1807-8, the Cross was removed from the entrance to the churchyard, and the shaft utilized as a pillar for the gallery. At the restoration in 1878-g, the pillar or shaft of the Cross was removed again, and placed opposite the church porch, where also it serves a purpose alien from that for which it was intended, for in winter it is used as a post for a lamp. Such have been the vicissitudes of Henllan Village Cross. The shaft is an octagonal and tapering monolith, brought to a square at the base by concave chamfers. The height, as it now stands, is 7ft. gin., and breadth, ift. 4m. The work belongs probably to the fifteenth century. LLANARMON YN IAL. CHURCHYARD CROSS. HIS Churchyard Cross has suffered the same fate as many others, and has been cut down and converted into a stand for a sun-dial. The dial itself is now un- used and useless, the indicator is broken, and the brass plate markings are indistinct. After much trouble I succeeded in de- ciphering the nearly illegible inscrip- tion on the plate, " Mai yr Awr yn dyfod," " As the hour coming ; " not an inappropriate motto for a sun-dial. The Cross stands at present 18 paces from the west end of the church. It is not in a line with the south side of the church, but it stands six paces more to A the south. In its position it w 1 E ~ resembles the cross that was at Bryn Eglwys, and also the one now at Corwen. The shaft is a somewhat ta- pering octagon- . 2o.PAc t , a r_. al, 3 feet 5 inches high, squared by broaches at the base, and mortised into the pedestal with lead- It measures <« ' M/m//.*' tt '~ ' crucifix at Cwm, the head and arms of iiJltfSr k M^SBliiiWf which have been knocked off, and both Crosses evidently were identical in pur- pose. In Mr. Pooley's Old Crosses of Gloucestershire (p. 67) is described and delineated a crucifix similar to this, having the figure of our Lord on both sides, which, Mr. Pooley thinks, belongs either to the eleventh or twelfth century. CONSECRATION CROSS. A most interesting Consecration Cross is preserved in the Church. The late Vicar of the parish, the Rev. T. J. Hughes, Lianas a. 93 now Rector of Llanbedr, near Ruthin, informs me that this Cross was, previously to the late restoration of the Church, built into the south wall. At the restoration it was removed, and at present it lies underneath the old communion table in the east end of the south aisle. It would have been well had this Cross been replaced in its original position, for there it would have been safer than where it is at present. It is a relic so seldom met with in churches in Wales, that it deserves to be well taken care of. The stone measures i foot 3 inches by 1 foot 1 inch, and it is 2 inches thick. The Cross, which is in relief, appears as if formed by two branches of a tree placed transversely, with the boughs lopped off. The three upper limbs of the Cross have each upon them four lopped-off branches, and the lower has three. The Cross is surrounded by a quatrefoil, and around this is a circle, which is touched on its concave surface by the quatrefoil. The quatrefoil and the circle each consists of three concentric mouldings. The Cross belongs probably to the fourteenth century. . Consecration Crosses are extremely rare. I am not aware of the existence of more than four in the Diocese of St. Asaph, and one of these four may have been the head of a sepulchral slab, and not a Consecration Cross : I allude to that at Overton. In Llanwnda (Pembrokeshire) Church walls there are several incised crosses on stones outside the church, and these, most likely, are Consecration Crosses, for such crosses stood both within and without the sacred building. Since this kind of cross is so extremely rare, not only in Wales but throughout the kingdom, I will enumerate those that have come under my notice in this diocese. 94 Old Stone Crosses. CHIRK CONSECRATION CROSS. This Cross at present is built into the south wall, above one of the windows, but there it is out of place. The Cross is in relief; the stone measures apparently ift. 3in. square. The Cross is within a circle, which is con- nected with the angles of the stone by four spikes. (See accompanying engraving.) Pro- bably it is of the twelfth century. LLANGWYFAN CONSECRATION CROSS. On the east jamb of the south door of this Church is a small Cross, with arms of about equal length, mea- suring each an inch or a litttle more. The stone, into which the Cross is cut, is red sandstone, and the porch is a part of the ancient Church, which, by restoration, has all but dis- appeared. Underneath the Cross, on other stones, are grooves, as shown in the illustration. Llangwyfan is about six miles from Ruthin. OVERTON. CROSS ON STONE. Built into the western pillar of this Church is a portion of a Cross within a circle, as shown in the sketch ; but, as part of the stone has been broken off, it is difficult to say whether this is a portion of a Consecration Cross, or only a fragment of an incised slab. The stone measures 20^ inches by 17 inches. The Cross is Norman in character. Llanasa. 95 These are the only probable Consecration Crosses that I have observed in the diocese of St. Asaph. But it would appear that there are, several in Malpas Church, and that parish adjoins the eastern portion of the diocese. The Hon. W. T. Kenyon, Rector of Malpas, to whose courtesy I am indebted for the following remarks on these Crosses, states that they were brought to light in the year 1881, by scraping off the plaster and whitewash. One of these Crosses is at the south porch, on the right-hand side entering the Church, just at the spring of the arch ; the four limbs are of equal length, or almost so, each limb narrowing towards the centre of the Cross. The dimensions of this Cross are given as 3m. by 2|in. or 3in. The position and size of the Cross correspond with that at Llangwyfan. The other Crosses at Malpas are on the capitals of the pillars, and they are four in number. They consist of two incisions crossing each other at right angles. These Crosses seem to be coeval in age with those portions of the Church where they appear. Mr. Beedham has supplied me with the following interesting notice of Consecration Crosses at the Franciscan Priory, Adare. The information appears in a beautiful quarto volume printed -by Parker, Oxford, " for private circulation," entitled " Memorials of Adare Manor, by Caroline, Countess of Dunraven, with Historical Notices of Adare by her Son, the Earl of Dunraven." On p. 81 appear engravings of two Consecration Crosses that are in the Priory. They are within circles, and are simply " scratched in the plaster, and are about ioin. in diameter, and about 5ft. from the ground." The Malpas and Llangwyfan Crosses are not surrounded by a circle, though it appears from the order of consecrating churches that such Crosses were usually circumscribed with a circle. In the Liber Pontificalis of Edmund Lacy, Bishop of Exeter, a MS. of the fifteenth century, edited by Ralph Barnes, Esq. (Exeter, 1847), are given the following directions to be carried out at the dedication of churches : — DEDICATIO ECCLESIARUM. Incipiat ordo ad dedicandum ecclesiasin quarum dedicacione subscripta requiruntur Primo provideatur quod ecclesia poterit libere circuiri, et g6 Old Stone Crosses. quod xii cruces depingantur in circulis in parientibus infra ecclesiam, et xii deforis : et xiiii cereoli et totidem claves ferrei figendi in superiore parte circulorum in quibus dicti cereoli figantur. — Liber Pontificalis, p. 12. From the opening remarks in the order of consecrating churches it appears that twelve crosses were to be depicted in circles on the walls within the church, and also twelve without. These the Bishop consecrated in the manner following, as appears in the Consecratio Altaris : — Postea eat Episcopus infra ecclesiam, et faciat crucem cum pollice intincto crismate in xii circulis infra ecclesiam ita dicens — " Sanctificetur hoc templum per istam sanctam unctionem et nostram benedictionem in honore. N. in nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti. Amen." The Bishop, having made with holy oil twelve crosses within circles inside the church, and having pronounced the words of con- secration, proceeds outside, where the ceremony is thus continued: — Tunc demum exeat Episcopus et cum crismate faciat xii cruces in circulis in parientibus ecclesise ab extra dicendo in quolibet circulo sicut dixit infra, soola canenti antiphonam. Here we are informed that the Bishop makes with the holy oil twelve crosses in circles on the walls outside the church, using there the same words as he had used inside the church, the scholars singing antiphonally. Lacy was Bishop of Exeter from 1420 to 1455 a.d. Although the Pontifical speaks of Consecration Crosses as being depicted on the walls, it is clear that they were sometimes incised. In Arundel Church, Sussex, are to be seen, on the internal walls, several painted crosses, but these are very rare now. Few such crosses escaped the whitewashing process of late days, and when once hidden from view, their destruction followed. At the restoration of churches in our days, plaster, with whatever was on it, disappeared. This would not be the case with incised crosses, and hence a few of these have reached our time. But few external Consecration Crosses are in existence in these days. At Salisbury Cathedral the external Consecration Crosses are inlaid in brass. I know of no such Cross in the Diocese of St. Asaph. It is not difficult to account for the very small number of Conse- cration Crosses that are in existence now. The perishable nature of such crosses, for they were generally painted on the church walls, Llanasa. 97 will satisfactorily explain the disappearance of a large number, and where they were incised, as it appears they sometimes were, over the spot marked with the sacred symbol by the Bishop, they were subjected in after years to destruction and mutilation by the Puritans. I shall quote from the Journal of William Dowsing, in treating in the Appendix of the destruction of the Cross on and about churches, and I will here take a couple of extracts from the same book bearing upon Consecration Crosses. He says, while enumerating the crosses he had done away with, that he had destroyed at Damsden — " Three crosses in the chancel on the wall." These doubtless were Consecration Crosses ; and again he records the destruction of many such crosses at Wetheringsett. His words are :— Wetheringsett : Nineteen crosses, sixteen about the arches of the church, and three on the porch. This entry reminds us of the crosses on the pillars in Malpas Church, and also of the cross at Llangwyfan, in the porch of the Church. CUSTOMS. Many Church customs in Llanasa parish lingered long, and only ceased in the memory of the living, or in the days of their parents or grand-parents. Lecta Roberts, once grave-digger, but now too aged to follow this occupation, told me of many of these now obsolete customs. Eastertide was a season of much rejoicing. The custom of " heaving" on Monday and Tuesday in Easter week long survived. On Easter Monday the young men, accompanied by a fiddler, went from house to house to " heave " the young women, and it was considered somewhat of a disgrace not to be visited. On Tuesday the young women went in companies to return the compliment, and these days were given up mostly to merriment. This custom was formerly general in all these parts, and over the border, in Shropshire, and some other English counties. Between thirty and forty years ago it was not an uncommon thing to see chairs carried about the streets of Shrewsbury, for the purpose of "heaving" or "lifting." Celebrations of the Holy Communion took place in this parish on Good Friday, Easter Eve, Easter-Day, and Easter Monday. 98 Old Stone Crosses. The first three continued to the end of the incumbency of the late Vicar, the Rev. T. J. Hughes, who showed me a record of the number communicating on those days. Possibly this custom still exists. The distribution over so many days was necessary in consequence of the number of communicants, but perhaps it had another object in view, viz., the distinction of classes of society, for Lecta informed me that the "great folk" communicated on Easter- Day, and the rest on any day that suited them best. It was once usual, I am told, to deliver in Llanasa Church a sermon on Easter Eve. The only Church that I am aware of, which continues the custom in the Vale is Llanychan, where the practice is still popular. I learn from the Rev. T. J. Hughes that it was a custom when he was Vicar of Llanasa, for the communicants to come up from the nave of the church to the chancel at the words, " Draw near with Faith " in the Prayer of Humble Access in the Communion Service, and those who could find room knelt then around the Com- munion Table, He also informed me that at private celebrations the parish clerk was present, and he always carried the clergyman's surplice. Mr. Hughes said there were, when he was Vicar of the parish, only three celebrations on successive days at Easter — on Good Friday, Easter Eve, and Easter-Day. In Llanasa parish it was formerly a custom on All Saints' Day to distribute seed cakes amongst the poor, who on receiving them prayed God to bless the next crop of wheat. This was a day much thought of formerly throughout the whole of Wales. In Clocaenog parish, at the present day, children go from house to house on All Saints' Day, for, as they call it, Bwyd Cenad y Meirw, which may be translated " The food of the Messenger of the Dead." Their errand is well known, but when at the door they intimate the object of their visit by saying the foregoing words. They receive either food or money, usually the latter, from the good wife of the house, and then they proceed to the next residence. This custom, I hear, still prevails in many parishes in Denbighshire and Merioneth- shire. Baptisms and marriages and funerals were times where the persons immediately concerned received presents from their neighbours. At baptisms as many as thirty couples of young people were present standing around the font. It was the custom for each young man Llanasa. 99 to give a shilling to the mother of the child, a shilling to the mid- wife, and a shilling shot to obtain beer. Lecta Roberts told me that her own mother received, when her daughter Ann was baptized, in 1799, the sum of £5 at the christening. Marriages here, as in all other parts, were attended by many groomsmen and bridesmaids, and on such occasions there were presents for the young couple, and "shots" from those assembled to buy drink for all at the wedding. The Rev. T. J. Hughes told me that it was customary on Palm Sunday to decorate the pulpit with willow branches. The learned Dr. Rock, in his book The Church of our Fathers, mentions the custom of wreathing the Cross on Palm Sunday. His words are : — Here (i.e., at the second station) was it that sometimes in parish churches especially the churchyard cross was the spot at which they stopped. Falling down on the ground they yielded their worship to Him who chose to die on the rough hard wood for the love He bore mankind. All about they strewed flowers and green boughs ; and after the Passion had been recited at Mass, blessed Palms were brought and this cross was wreathed and decked with them to symbolize Christ's victory over death and sin. References to such a ritual practice are not wanting among our records ; and our forefathers liked to think of it ; thus, Henry Bunn, by his will, a.d. 1501, orders a cross to be set up in Hardley Churchyard "pro palmis in die ramis palmarum offerendis (Blomefield's Norfolk, x. 141)" — Church of our Fathers, vol. hi., pt. 2, p. 228. William de Bleys, who was Bishop of Worcester from 12 18 to 1236, issued constitutions in 22g a.d., and when treating of church- yards his Lordship says : — Crux decens et honesta, vel in coemeterio erecta, et quam net processio ipso die Palmarum, nisi in alio loco consuevit fieri. — Concilia, vol. i., pp. 623-4. This is an authority for the erection of Churchyard Crosses in the thirteenth century, and it also indicates that use of these Crosses which is mentioned by D . Rock. M LLANELIDAN. CHURCHYARD CROSS. •€*-n. HIS Cross stood on the pathway on the north side of the Church ; its position was about mid-way be- tween the Church porch and the lich gate (See plan). A few foundation stones mark the spot once occupied by the Cross ; but these are on a level with the pathway which passes over them, and therefore not very noticeable. Fifteen paces taken from the Church porch brings one to the site of the Cross. Before proceeding with a description of the Churchyard Cross, it may be remarked that, in consequence of the configuration of the ground on which the Church stands, the porch and chief en- trance are on the north side, and not, as is usually the case, on the south. Corwen Church is another instance of this kind. The Cross at Llanelidan was erec- ted therefore on that side which was tra- versed by the parish- ioners on their way to the Church. The Cross was, I am informed by the present Rector, the Rev- David Roberts, removed by the orders of his predecessor, the Rev. Llanelidan. 101 Robert Roberts. The stonemason, Griffith Griffiths, who was employed on the occasion, is still living (1883), an old man of over eighty years, but still strong and capable of work. He lately contracted for building the wall around the additional burial ground, and when so engaged he informed the Rector that he had removed the Cross, and he stated that the removal took place from fifty to sixty years ago. Portions of the Cross have been built up into the schoolroom ; and at the approach to the Church, on the south side, are several large blocks of sandstone, apparently the steps to the Cross, but used at present as steps to the entrance into the churchyard. On the top of the steps is a large stone, which formed the basement of the Cross. It measures 3ft. 2in. square, and is about 9 inches thick ; the sides are chamfered, and to avoid the central socket, which would be inconvenient, as the stone is now used, it has been in- verted, so that the chamfered sides are undermost. (See Fig. X.) Some portions of the old Cross are thus utilized, but others have disappeared. It is much to < 3ft. 2in > be regretted that a Churchyard Cross, Fig. x. having reached the nineteenth century, should, even if already mutilated, have been removed or des- troyed. The parish clerk, Simon Goodman Jones, informed me that from this Cross parochial and other matters were published in days gone by, just as they were in the neighbouring parish of Derwen. BALL-PLAYING ON CHURCH WALLS. Ball-playing was in this, as in other parishes, a favourite game. Reference has already been made to it, but particulars not previously recorded are here given. Mention was made of the use of shutters to the church windows when speaking of Cilcen Church. From information supplied by the parish clerk of Llanelidan there is no doubt that they were, as previously stated, supplied to secure the glass from breakage when the game was being played. Games of fives were played at Llanelidan on the west gable end of the south aisle. There is a window above a built-up door, with the shutter staples still remaining, but the shutters themselves have 102 Old Stone Crosses. disappeared, and the clerk said that these shutters were provided simply for the protection of the windows while games were going on. He also pointed out to me a contrivance by which the shutters of a window in an adjoining side wall were drawn to from the loft in the west end of the Church. The space between these two walls is now occupied by grave stones, and when the attention of the clerk was drawn to these obstructions to a game of fives, he stated that the altar tombs and head stones were erected after the game had ceased. He also pointed out to me several slabs broken at the surface of the ground, and he said these stones were driven into the ground by Mr Davies, a curate of the parish, to make it impossible for the young men to play ball against the Church walls. But, said my informant, the parishioners would not submit to such treatment, and one, Robert Jones, Tyntwll, with a sledge hammer, broke the objec- tionable pillars to pieces, and the games were resumed. All this took place a little more than sixty years ago. The Rev. John Davies, the clergyman referred to, ceased to be curate of Llanelidan in the year 1819. It would seem that these games were not always played for amusement only, but oftentimes for money. The Llanelidan parish clerk told me that his grandfather, Gabriel Lloyd, a freeholder in the parish, was passionately fond of the game, and three times over he gambled and lost his property in betting on unsuccessful com- petitors. When asked how he could have spent his freehold three times over, Lloyd said that his infatuated forefather took the deeds of the property and deposited them with a female cousin, as security for money advanced by her on the freehold ; that after a while she forgave him the debt and restored the deeds ; and this she did on three occasions. But her kindness was of no avail, and for the fourth time the deeds came into her possession, and now, wearied by these thrice repeated proofs of her relative's improvidence and gambling propensities, she no longer would relieve him of his monetary difficulties, and, though aged and blind, she found a hus- band, and Gabriel Lloyd lost his property for ever. Poverty even destroyed not his love for the game, and he staked his last shilling on his grandson, Gabriel Goodman's skill at fives, and lost it. Such are* the family traditions of Gabriel Lloyd. Corroborative evidence of play for money was given by old John Lewis, Graigfechan, who is mentioned in connection with Llanelidan. - 103 Llanfair Cross. This old man narrated with much vivacity a feat he had performed in a game played against Llanfair Church walls years ago, when he won a bet of a pound. Upon being asked whether he could play equally well with both hands, he said, capering about in front of the dumb wall, as if replaying the cele- brated match — " Oh yes, I played with my left hand as well as with the right, or I could never have won that game." The old man is now minus an arm. MARKING OF GAMES OF FIVES ON CHURCH WALLS. A south doorway into Llanelidan Church contains many scorings of games played on the wall already mentioned. This entrance is through the side wall adjoining, and at right angles to, the west wall. The wall is very thick, and the marker stationed in the recess of the door could see the game without interfering with the players. Both sides of the doorway are plastered over with mortar, and many coats of whitewash have been laid on the wall. Upon the peeling off of the whitewash the scorings came in view. The wall was covered over with them. These marks are the only remaining instances of records of games that have reached our days. Nearly all the churches in the Vale have undergone restoration, and much that was old and interest- ing has consequently disappeared ; and to the fact that Llanelidan Church has not been restored, we are indebted for the preservation of these marks. The records of matches are variously written. Sometimes a single line, four inches or so long, is scratched into the mortar, and this line is inter- \ \ sected by other lines measuring about 1 I two inches in length. (See Figs. I. and II.) ^ It appears that Fig. II. records a dead heat, while Fig. I. shews that a well con- Fig. 1. a— &= 4 inches, tested game has been played, the victors winning by two points out of ten. \ 1 ; l I I j I / / i I / I . 1 Another way of scoring was by c M j j I I I j ' | \ I I I j d drawing two parallel lines, and in- serting within them a straight line Fig. 11. c— a=^6 inches. for each point gained by one of the 104 Old Stone Crosses. competing sides, whilst the record of the other side was marked by straight lines drawn outside the parallel lines, as shewn in Fig. III. e It would appear that the game re- gistered in Fig. III. was very one-sided, the winners gain- ing fourteen out of eighteen points. II I m Fig. Ill, e—f=g inches. Fig IV. seems to have been the same kind of scoring, somewhat modified, I I I I I as in Fig. III. Fig. V. re- l I I I I presents another kind, but what it means I know not. There are several single k letters in the mortar close to Fig. iv. g-h=gi inches. the scorings, such as G and J, and there are also many other records of games along the walls, and these exhibit a certain amount of di- versity from the delineations now given. The parish clerk informed me that the letters stood for the marker's name, and the G, he said, belonged to his enthusiastic grandfather, Gabriel. These records show that a game of fives was conducted accord- ing to well-known rules, which have now been lost in Wales. On the walls of Pompeii have been discovered a complete programme of a match of fives or hand ball, in which challengers, accepters, and markers are named. All this reminds one forcibly of the games played at Llanelidan, where the scorings and the markers figure so conspicuously, while it shews the antiquity of the exercise of the pila. The pilicrepi of Pompeii were an influential body, and on electioneering placards they are even asked to support a certain candidate— " Pilicrepi Facite " are the words there written. We can well understand the enthusiasm Fig. V. i—j=3 inches. Llanelidan. 105 invoked by a great match in Wales, and we can well believe, as old people tell us, that the important work of keeping the score was often undertaken by the clergyman. ROOD-SCREEN AND LOFT. There is a tradition that the screen belonging to this Church was removed to Ruthin Church. If so, it has disappeared from that Church also, where at present there is no screen. The remains of certain portions of a rood-loft are still in existence in Llanelidan Church. One part forms a seat in the vestry, and this is ornamented with rude engraving of animals ; there are other portions of the rood-loft used as beams in the west-end gallery in the Church. Particularly noticeable is one with mortises. Judging from the remains of the rood-loft still preserved and appropriated in the Church, the tradition as to the removal of the screen and its appur- tenances cannot be literally correct. A part may have been removed when the Church was undergoing repairs, but certainly not the whole. EAST WINDOW GLASS. The painted glass in the east window is fragmentary, and the window is filled in with old greenish glass. A pane has the date 1700 upon it. LLANFAIR DYFFRYN CLWYD. 1 1 H U CHURCHYARD CROSS. HIS is one of those Churchyard Crosses that have been converted into a sun-dial. From the figures 1800 cut into the shaft, we may suppose that that was the date when the change was effected. The sun- dial plate has an inscription, which states that " E. Tavo, Chester, Fee*." The Cross stands on the south side of the Church, six paces from the porch, and it is in a straight line with the east wall of the porch. There are two steps leading up to the pedestal ; the lowest is, in most parts, imbedded in the soil, but a sufficient portion is exposed to show that it is about I2in. broad, and 7ft. 2in. long. The next step consists apparently of three large stones, lying partly underneath the pedestal. This step is on two of its sides I2in. broad, and on the two opposite sides, ift. 3in. broad ; in length, its opposite sides measure re- spectively 5ft. 4m. and 4ft. nin.; a displacement of the stones forming the steps will account for this inequality. The interstices between the stones are filled with luxuriantly growing ferns, including the hart's tongue. The pedestal is a large block of free-stone, mea- suring, at the base, 2 ft. ioin. square ; height, 2ft. iin. Grooves .j ,.y-r~- . ,, y.r--H--i — ^. CROSS Plan showing position of Churchyard Cross. Llanfair Dyffyyn Clwyd. 107 have been made along its upper surface by sharpening thereon knives or other implements. The shaft is an octagonal, 2ft. 5in. in height, brought to a square by broaches, and mortised into the pe- destal with lead. When perfect the Cross must have been a massive and imposing structure. The remains are simple in character. It is pro- bably fifteenth -century work. Old people in the parish remember many customs that have ceased in their days. One of these was — RINGING A HAND-BELL AT FUNERALS. The parish clerk formerly preceded funerals, walking a short distance in advance of the procession, tolling, as he went along, a small hand-bell. The modern reason given for this custom was the narrowness of the roads, which would not permit of vehicles passing each other. The bell, therefore, gave notice of the approach of the funeral, and should there be impediments on the road, they were removed before the funeral came up. This custom is extinct. It appears that the custom of ringing hand-bells at funerals was known in other parts of Wales, and continued to the days of the living. In that interesting book on bells, by the Rev. H. T. Ellacombe, called Tintinnabula, p. 315, speaking of a Carnarvonshire bell, the writer says : — I was told that the bell had been formerly round, but was squeezed into its present form by the famous Llwyd Fawr, a gigantic ancestor of Lloyd Edwards, Esq., of Nanhoran. Before a funeral the clerk used to go round the churchyard ringing the bell. There are persons still living who remember that in Carnarvon a bell used to be rung through all the streets to give notice of an approaching funeral. Many proofs could be adduced of the prevalence of this custom in ancient times. In a.d. 1549 parsons, vicars, and curates were N 108 Old Stone Crosses. bidden to receive corpses at the Churchyard without bell or cross {Concilia, vol. iv., p. 32.) A more distinct reference to the use of hand-bells at funerals is made by Archbishop Grindal in 157 1. In his injunctions to the clergy the Archbishop says : — At burials, no ringing any hand bells ; no month's minds, or yearly commemoration of the dead ; nor any other superstitious ceremonies to be observed or used, which tended either to the maintenance of prayer for the dead or of the popish purgatory. — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 269. Thus wrote Archbishop Grindal, but we have seen that in Wales hand-bells were rung at funerals long after the issuing of this in- junction. The custom of ringing a hand-bell at funerals also prevailed in Ireland, as testified by the following quotation : — On February nth, 1839, Dr Aquila Smith exhibited to the members of the Royal Irish Academy an ancient Irish bell of a square form, found near Fintona, in the county of Tyrone. I have been informed by my friend, the Rev. Henry Tottenham, the present rector of Fintona, that the bell is still in existence, and is in the custody of a family by the name Mc'Enhill ; that when any member of the family dies, it is rung in front of the funeral procession. — Tintinnabula, p. 338. Bells were also used when the parish boundaries were perambulated in Rogation Days, but their use was for- bidden by Archbishop Grindal on such oc- casions. Neither banners nor hand-bells were to be carried in these perambulations, says his grace in his injunctions of 1571. The Llanfair bell is not old, but, as sug- gested by the Rev. Basil M. Jones, the Vicar of the parish, it may have been cast out of an older one. Perhaps it is still more probable that a new bell took the place of an older one. Its dimensions are — g|in. high ; diameter at base, 6fin. ; the handle is triangular, and is one with the rest of the metal. The bell is in an excellent state of preservation. Around the outside in raised characters is the following inscription : — There were and are four churchwardens belonging to this parish, and the initials of these officers in 1723 are here given. Between Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd 169 the date and the letters, and also between each set of letters, are small figures of a heart. The bell is of the usual shape. The accompanying engraving renders any minute description unnecessary. Cardinal Pole, in 1557, in Articles set forth in his ordinary visitation within his diocese of Canterbury touching the clergy, inquires : — Whether the sacrament be carried devoutly to them that fall sick, with light, and with a little sacring bell. — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 170. The Cardinal describes the sacring bell as little. Llanfair bell is not a small one, but it might have been used for the purpose specified by the Cardinal. From inventories of church goods made in 1548, bells are named along with vestments, plate, &c. There would therefore be more than one kind of holy bell used in connection with the services of the church in those times. Several real sacring bells have reached our days. At Llanrhyddlad Church, Anglesey, there is one. It is of small dimensions, being only 4m. high, and 2gin. by 2in. at the bottom, and is of cast bronze. Such a bell would be used at the celebration of theMass, and not probably a bell of the dimensions of that at Llanfair. Formerly, when parishes were perambulated in Rogation Days, commonly called Cross Week, certain ceremonies were performed, and hand-bells were used, and such bells as this at Llanfair, or that at Gwytherin, a parish about six miles from Llan- rwst, would be the kind of bell used on such occasions. Dr. Thirlwall, the late Bishop of St. David's, found at Kerry, Montgomeryshire, an official whose duty it was to perambulate the Church during service with a bell to awaken sleepers. The Llanfair bell was used by the parish clerk when he had any announcement to make, to the people on Sunday, which he did from the steps of the Cross after ringing the bell. In this way it would be used as the bell of a crier. When the members of the Cambrian Archaeological Association visited Gwytherin in August, 1882, the small hand-bell kept in the church was exhibited. Some thought it a not very ancient Sacring Bell ; others, nothing of the sort ; whilst a native said it had formerly been used by the village crier. Very likely it had been used in the same manner as that at Llanfair. The inhabitants of Llanfair remember their bell being used for the purpose of calling the people together when the tithes were sold by auction. I will only add that the Llanfair bell, in some way or other, came into the possession of Mr. Samuel Owen, the village inn-keeper, and HO Old Stone Crosses, he, at the request of the Rev. Basil M. Jones, willingly gave it up to the charge of the Vicar, and at present it is kept in the Vicarage. It is not improbable that even in these days bells, which formerly belonged to churches, may be found. The writer, when on an official visit to Caerwys school, observed a hand-bell under a bench, with a date and letters on it, and all the information he could get from Mr. Jones, the schoolmaster, was that he had found the bell in the school, and that he had removed a much-worn leather thong from the hole in the handle. The bell is now used for calling the children to school. The inscription is cast, and is in rude raised characters as follows : — In shape the bell resembles the Llanfair hand-bell, but it has a plain moulding just below the inscription. The handle is formed of a perforated projection, into which a leather thong was inserted for the hand. The height of the bell is 6f inches, and its diameter 6 inches. Upon referring to the parish account books, in company with the Rev. E. Jones, the Rector, under the year 1702 it was ascertained that Roger Ffoulkes and William Thomas were then churchwardens, and evidently the initials R F, W T, on the bell, stand for the names of these gentlemen ; and further, in the account rendered[for that year, appear these entries : — for chainge the littel bell . . .7.0 for chainge the flagon . . .2.6 Both the flagon and the bell mentioned in these entries are still in existence. The flagon is of pewter, and has on it the inscription " R.F. WT. Wardens 1702." The bell and the flagon coming together in the account may seem to suggest that this was a Sacring Bell. The flagon undoubtedly would be used in the administration of the holy communion, and so, possibly, at that time, would the bell be used as a sacring bell. On the other hand the church flagon was used formerly for holding spiced beer, which was drunk at funerals ; and the custom of ringing a hand-bell in the procession, and of drinking beer after the funeral was over, would by an association of ideas cause the churchwardens to enter these articles, the one immediately after the other, in their annual church accounts. The most formidable objection, however, Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd. ill to this bell having been a sacring bell i&its size, while, as a procession bell, either at funerals or perambulations, its size and depth of sound would be necessary qualities. There was, and possibly still is, at Gwyddelwern, a sacring bell of a peculiar shape, which the Rev. John Williams (Glanmor) tells me he has often handled. PENANCE. Reconciliation consequent upon penance publicly performed in church during divine service came down to the end of the last century. Mr. John Roberts, Plas Einion, a respectable farmer, bred and born in Llanfair parish, whose long life began July 2, 1801, told me that it was a custom for offenders, men and women, guilty of certain offences, upon conviction, to stand in Church in a white sheet. When asked whether he had himself seen this, he told me that he had not, but that John Jones, the late parish clerk, told him that he had seen a man undergoing his penance in this- form. Mr. Roberts also informed me that it was common for the justices of the peace, for petty offences, to command the guilty to distribute a quantity of white bread to the poor after morning prayer on Sunday, and this Mr. Roberts had himself witnessed. The last time he did so was about the year 1816, and his father's servant man received one of the loaves then distributed. When my friend, Mr. Beedham, and I, visited Llanfair churchyard in the year 1880, we met there John Lewis of Graigfechan, 86 years old, and he told us he had seen a man distribute loaves of white bread from one of the tombs on the south side of the church, and that he had had one of the loaves himself. I have been informed of the infliction of both these punishments in other parts of North Wales. Lecta Roberts, already mentioned, at one time grave digger in Llanasa, told me that the last to do penance in that Church was Belly Humphreys, who died in 1817, and whose grave Lecta pointed out. The female grave-digger had but a confused recollection of the event, but she remembered having seen Belly walk up the aisle of the Church covered with a white sheet, and the clergyman standing in the chancel facing the penitent, presumedly to absolve her, and to take away the sheet, and give her permission to be admitted to the holy communion. D'Israeli, in his Curiosities of Literature (Routledge's edition, p, 373), speaking of the domestic history of the great lawyer, Sir Edward H2 Old Stone Crosses. Coke, says that Lady Villiers* Cope's daughter, was condemned to stand in a white sheet. High and low, in those days, the early part of the seventeenth century, underwent the same punishment. There are many allusions to penance in the Concilia, which has so often been quoted in these pages. Archbishop Grindal, in 1571, enjoins penance ; and Archbishop Laud issued in 1635 a form of penance and absolution of a renegade or apostate, which throws much light upon this subject. In this form the offender is directed as follows : — He is to stand all the time of divine service and sermon in the forenoon, in the porch of the church (care being taken that boys and idle people flock not about him) if it have any, if none, yet without the church door, if extremity of weather hinder not, in a penitent fashion in a white sheet and with a white wand in his hand, his head uncovered, his countenance dejected, not taking particular notice of any one person that passeth him, and when the people come in, and go out of the Church, let him upon his knees humbly crave their prayers, and acknowledge his offence in this form — " Good Christians remember in your prayers a poor wretched apostate or renegado." — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 522. The next Sunday, in his penitential habit, after the Te Deum, he is brought by one of the churchwardens into the church as far as the west side of the font, where he kneels till the second lesson is ended, and then he makes submission and asks mercy of God in a form given, after which in a humble and devout manner he kisses the bottom stone of the font, and strikes his breast, and then departs into the church porch. The third Sunday at the beginning of the service he is brought into the body of the church, near the minister's pew, habited as before, where he is to stand, and after the Creed he is addressed by the minister, and then makes his confession in the presence of the congregation, whom the minister next addresses, after which the penitent kneels down eastward, bowing to the pave- ment, and offers up a set prayer by himself, if he is able to read it, or else he repeats the same after the minister, Then the priest, laying his hand on his head, absolves him, and after saying certain prayers takes away his white sheet and wand, and, addressing him as "dear brother," openly promises " that upon any communion day following he shall be admitted to the Holy Sacrament." In this way was the penitent to act, and some such proceedings were carried out in other cases, but the exact form is forgotten even by old people, who remember nothing but the white sheet. Llanfair Dyffryn Clwyd. 113 For v the convenience of penitents there were formerly in church- yards two large undressed stones, one on each side the church porch, called " Cerrig dioddefaint," or stones on which persons undergoing penance could seat themselves. The Rev. John Williams (Glanmor), Vicar of Llanallgo, Anglesey, to whom I am indebted for this inform- ation, tells me that he remembers two of these so-called stones lying one on each side the porch of Abergele Church, and when a child, very old people informed him that they had heard of persons under- going penance seated on these stones, and wrapped in white sheets. This, they said, was done on a Sunday during divine service. Most of these stones have, I fear, disappeared during the restoration of the churches, but it may be, many of them have only to be looked for to be found. We can well understand that slight respect would be shewn to these relics, when their use, and even their distinctive name, were forgotten. Mr. Williams also informs me that excommunicated persons, who were forbidden even to enter the churchyard, were in the habit of leaning on the churchyard walls that they might at least hear the " Sanctus Bell." ELOR FEIRCH, OR HORSE BIER. In times gone by, and up to the early part of the present century, the dead, if they had to be carried a long distance, were conveyed to the churchyard on a bier called Elor feirch, or horse bier, which was carried by horses. The bier in question had long arms behind and before, and within these arms, or shafts, horses were placed, one in each shaft, and secured by gear made specially for the bier. The coffin also was fastened to the bier, and of necessity stood between the horses. It is said that it was difficult to train the hinder horse to take his place, his head being right above the coffin. I have been told that a couple of celebrated horses for carrying the Elor fcirch were kept by a farmer at Cynwyd, near Corwen, and that he hired them out. Biers of this kind were necessary because of the distances which had to be travelled, and also because of the badness of the roads, which were often mere bridle paths. One of these biers is preserved in Llangower Church, near Bala, and there are, in Llan- elidan Church, in the Vale of Clwyd, the remains of one, which has been converted into an ordinary bier by cutting off a part of the shafts ; but at present it is unused and hangs up in the vestry. Mr. Roberts, Plas Einion, Llanfair, remembers two funerals in which the ii4 Old Stone Crosses. horse bier was used. The last he saw was about the year i8o8 4 when Robert Llwyd, Cerygoerion, was buried. KEEPING CHRISTMAS ACCORDING TO THE OLD STYLE. After the adoption of the new or Gregorian style in 1752, when September 3rd was reckoned as September 14th, thus causing eleven days to be thrown out of that year, Christmas continued to be ob- served in Llanfair by the people for many years according to the old style. Christmas Day was kept in Church according to the new style, but Mr. Roberts, whom I have several times mentioned, in- formed me that his own father was in the habit of reading to his servants and others on old Christmas Day, in his own house, the services appointed by the Church for that day, and this he continued to do to the end of his life. SPELL-BREAKING WITH EARTH FROM THE CHURCHYARD. One of the favourite pastimes in the parish of Llanfair was cock- fighting, and many expedients were resorted to by bird-owners for securing success for their own birds. Amongst these devices was that of procuring spells against opponents' birds, but fortunately these spells could be broken. One way in which this could be done was mentioned to me by Mr. Roberts. He said that when a certain main had been arranged, a servant of his father suspected unfair play. Having reason to believe that his master's birds had been bewitched, he went to the churchyard, and carried away a quantity of earth, with which he sprinkled the cock pit, and thus the evil was averted, the spell became nugatory, and all the birds fought and won according to their merits. Can it be that one reason why cocks were fought in churchyards was the belief that there spells lost their power, and is this the reason why men in former times fought in consecrated ground ? CURSING AN INCOMING TENANT. Spells, or cursing, seem to have had a beneficial restraining influ- ence in days gone by. They who feared little, feared being cursed ; and the dread of the curse deserved made it undeserved. A singular instance of faith in spells was told the writer by Mr. Roberts, of Plas Einion. He said it was generally believed in the parish, that if a Llanfair Dyffryn .Clwyd. 115 tenant were supplanted, and lost his holding through the misre- presentations of an unscrupulous farmer desirous of obtaining the farm, then the outgoing tenant had his revenge by cursing the inter- loper. This was done as follows. The supplanted farmer, before he left the premises, wrote out, or got some one to write out for him, the 109th Psalm, and this he hid away in a crevice in the wall of the house, and carefully covered the spot where he had stowed it with mortar, so that the incoming tenant could not discover it, for if discovered the spell would be broken. As long as the paper re- mained in the wall, so long were dire calamities sure to follow the steps of the man who had ousted the innocent, and ultimately unavoidable ruin, it was believed, would overtake the interloper. TITHE AUCTION. An important day in the annals of the parish of Llanfair D.C. was Gwyl If an, St. John's Festival, when the tithes of the various townships were disposed of by public auction. In this and other parishes a special brew was provided, called Cwrw Degwm, tithe beer, for the sale. It is said that this ale was neither sparingly supplied, nor was it weak and undrinkable, for under its influence many a bid was made hastily, which was repented of at leisure. The tithes, it seems, usually were bought by the farmers themselves, and the purchase by outsiders was resented; for occasionally the natives were outbidden. The value of the tithes depended on the selling price of grain, and when wheat was high the tithe, it is said, has been known to be even higher than the rent. Thus two persons told me that in the time of the French wars, in the early part of this century, the rent of a farm called Ffynnogion was ^120, while one year the tithe reached that figure ; and another, it went as high as £ 140. In those days a hob of wheat, i681bs., was sold for £3 ; now the same quantity is sold for twelve shillings. In these parts the tithe was willingly paid to the clergy, and as a rule, good feeling existed between the people and their pastor, at any rate on this point. This seems to have been the case in other parts of Wales. The following extract from the Tithe Accounts of Marchwiel parish, near Wrexham, for which I am indebted to the courtesy of the Rev. J. Sturkey, Rector of the parish, is interesting. A former Rector writes : — The existence of Tythes, as arranged in this parish, was advantageous to all, since, when the Lord of the Harvest gave rich crops, the Tenant o n6 Old Stone Crosses. was enabled to pay accordingly, and when the crops were light, or when the tenants anticipated any difficulty in paying at Christmas the amount of them, he had the option of refusing his Tythes, and such good under- standing existed between the Tythe owner and Tenant that I have frequently known the Tenant offer to hale his Tythes to the Rectory gratuitously. Therefore it was to the regret of all parties that in the parish of Marchwiel Tithes ceased on the Feast of Circumcision, 1842. J. H. Montagu Luxmoore, F. of Epiphany, 1842. Rector. There is no doubt the Welsh in olden times looked upon tithes, not so much as the clergyman's property, as dues belonging to God, and when in days of oppression they were deprived of the ministrations of the clergy, and there was no one to receive the tithes, rather than appropriate them to their own use they offered them a burnt offering to Jehovah. This is alluded to in a letter by Thomas Price, Llan- fyllin, written to the Cambrian Register, April 12th, 1701. Mr. Price says : — From the severe laws made by Henry IV. against the Welsh after Owen Glyndyfrdwy's rising, whereby they were not only interdicted the civil, but also the ecclesiastical rights of their country ; no priest being admitted to the rectorship of any parish ; whereon the people having finished their harvest, and laid their tythes aside, and knowing none that could lay claim to them, set fire to them, as not thinking fit to make use of what had been so solemnly dedicated to the service of God Almighty. — Cambrian Register, vol. i., p. 327. Such an act as this speaks louder than words ; and it shows how real and unselfish was the religion of our forefathers. SEPARATING THE SEXES DURING DIVINE SERVICE. A custom prevails in Jesus Chapel, in the parish of Llanfair D.C., which also at one time was common in Wales, and in some churches is being revived, of separating the men from the women in church during divine service. Jesus Chapel was built in 1623, an d pre- sumedly, from that time, the custom has reached our days. A transept of Llangelynin Old Church, near Conway, is called Capel Meibion, the men's chapel. THE ORDER OF LEAVING THE CHURCH. In former days the clergyman was the first to leave the church, and when he had reached the porch, the gentlefolk left their seats, Llanfair Dyffyyn Clwyd. 117 and in the porch they exchanged courtesies with the parson. After a sufficient time had elapsed for these greetings to take place, other portions of the congregation departed ; these again were succeeded by others, each portion taking precedence of others below them in the social scale, until all had left. They, one and all, were greeted heartily by the clergyman, who shook hands with each as he or she left the porch. This custom was common to all the churches in the Vale of Clwyd and other parts of Wales. It continued in Llan- fair D.C. parish to the year 1848, when, on the death of the Rev. James Jones, it ceased. His successor, instead of continuing the custom, sat in the pulpit while the congregation left the church. The order of precedence in leaving the church was often a vexatious point, particularly where there were more squires than one in a parish of supposed equal rank. As the patty, who first left the sacred edifice was considered the leading family in the parish, gentlefolks who laid claims to pre-eminence contended for this honour. There is a tradition in Llanfor parish, near Bala, forwhir.h I am indebted to Mr. R. Pryce Jones, Pentrecelyn, a native of Bala, that two families of considerable influence and authority in Llanfor parish, the Rhiwaedog and Rhiwlas families, long contended for this coveted distinction, and after much unpleasantness and many bitter words the matter was referred to arbitrators, who decided in favour of the Rhiwaedog claimants. The Rhiwlas family was not satisfied with the result of the arbitration, and, unwilling to be second to any- one, the squire of Rhiwlas built a chapel on the north side of the chancel, known, locally, as Yr Eglwys Groes, or the Cross Church, also called Rhiwlas Chapel. Thus, by having their own private chapel, with its door opening into the churchyard, the family escaped the humiliation of having to follow that of Rhiwaedog from the Church services. The Rhiwlas chapel was built in 1599. LLANGERNYW. N< N Llangernyw churchyard stand two rough, undressed stones with Crosses on them. From the accompanying ground plan it will be seen that these stones are in close proximity to each other, and also to the church walls. The stone marked (a) in the plan measures 15m. by 2iin. at the base ; height, 52m. ; and on the top, which is irregular in sur- face, it measures i6in. by I2in. It is uin. from the church wall in one direction, and 63m. in the other. The other stone, marked (b), varies in its dimensions. The sides at the base measure re- spectively 16, 15, 14, and 15 in- ches ; the height is 51 inches. This stone stands 22 inches to the south of one of the church wall buttresses. These stones are gft. 4m. apart. Between them lies a flat modern grave stone. The position of these upright stones with respect to each other suggests that they may have been originally the supporters of a cromlech. Taken in conjunction with another set of stones, 20 yards or so away, with an altar toinb between them, they point to a series of prehistoric remains, which once stood in Llangernyw churchyard. ^sn <&. Plan, shewing position of Pillar Stone Scale 123456 feet. (a) Pillar Stone with Cross on it. (b) Pillar Stone with Cross on it. (d) Flat Gravestone — modern. Llangemyw. 119 The form of the Cross on the stone marked (a) is rather peculiar. Two lines intersecting each other at right angles form the Cross; at the extremity of each of these lines, and at right angles to it, are other shorter lines, but the central vertical line projects slightly beyond the upper line which cuts it. Between this line and the one immediately below it are two small artificial circular depressions, like cup markings, and the extremities of the various lines that form the Cross terminate with circular punctures. The central inter- secting lines measure respectively ioin. and 7in. ; the longer one being the stem of the Cross, and the shorter, the arms. The lines at the ex- tremity of these are unequal in length ; those at the extremity of the stem measure 5m. each ; 3m. on one side, and 2in. on the other side the stem ; the lines at the end of the arms measure 3m. each. The IliRiSilll liiiii Mr, Mm. H .w'l'J 1 **PP|M11)W< Pillar stone, or maen hir, in churchyard. Fig. a. Pillar stone, ormaen hir, in churchyard. Fig. b, surface of this stone is smooth, excepting a portion of the left-hand side, where a part has peeled off. There are a few incisions or arrow markings just below the Cross near the side of the; stone. The Cross is at the top of the stone. The Cross on the stone marked (b) in the ground plan is also at the 120 Old Stone Crosses. head of the stone, and it is formed by two sets of parallel grooves,about three inches apart, running from four cup-like depressions, and termin- ating, at the head and arms, with the edge of the stone. This Cross measures 21 in. by 13 in. ; but the lower stern is somewhat indistinct. These are the only monoliths in churchyards in the Diocese of St. Asaph with incised crosses upon them. They are, therefore, highly interesting remains. It would seem that originally they were unmarked meini hirion, similar to many others still in existence in many parts of Wales, and probably in ancient times they were erected to indicate the last resting place of the illustrious dead. After an interval of centuries, perhaps, another famous person was buried near the stone and a rude cross cut upon it to show that a Christian also there found rest from his labours. The crosses on these stones would therefore date from early Christian days, probably from the time when the Romans held sway in Britain. It is very likely that the Church was erected near them designedly, and that they were carefully preserved when the Church was originally built, and afterwards when it was restored. It may be that the Church at Llangernyw is built on a spot dedicated to religious rites in pre- Christian days, and that the veneration for the place was perpetuated by building upon it a Christian Church. That Christians appropriated sites and objects venerated by pagans is indisputable. In many countries this was the case. In a very interesting book, entitled Antigiledades de Galicia, bjr D. Ramon Barros Scielo, Corunna, 1875, are cuts which shew that crosses are found in Spain intermixed with stone remains of pre-historic times. Thus, on a monolith, known as the Serpent Stone (Piedra da Serpenta), from the figure of a mythological serpent rudely traced upon it, a plain cross has been erected. In the same book also, facing page 73, is a representation of a dolmen of the mountains of Obre in Noya, Corunna ; and on a stone near the base is a small cross, before which is the figure of a woman kneeling. From the posture of the woman it is evident that she is performing her devotions before the cross on the stone, and if in far distant times some kind of religious service was performed at this dolmen, which is very likely, we have a continuation of the veneration for the stone diverted to a different object. In Ireland pillar stones are found with the cross engraved upon them, and the late Mr. Brash, in his book called Ogam Inscribed Llangernyw, 121 Monuments of the Gaedhil in the British Islands, gives many engravings of rude pillar stones on which the cross is incised. Fourteen plates contain delineations of such stones in Ireland ; two are given in Wales, and other plates shew similar stones found in Scotland. Mr. Brash had not heard of these stones in Llangernyw Church, or he would have mentioned them. One of the stones figured in plate xxviii., the pillar stone at Drumkeare, co. Kerry, has on it a cross much like that on one of the Llangernyw stones, and it still further resembles the Welsh relic in having the cross near the top, but the Irish stone has Ogham marks along one of its edges, which the Llangernyw stone has not. Speaking of the Irish pillar stones, Mr. Brash remarks that : — The religious character of the pillar-stone in Ireland is preserved in the term ailithri, which signifies a pilgrimage, or a ceremony performed in penance That the pagan Irish reverenced pillar-stones, we have evidence in the well-known incident in the life of St. Patrick, who is represented as overthrowing the symbols of Crom-Cruach and his twelve subordinate deities, which, in the form of pillar-stones, stood in the plain of Magh Sleacht, in the present county of Cavan. In other instances he appears to have allowed these monuments to remain, directing that they should be inscribed with the sacred name, as we have it recorded in the Tripartite Life (II., c. 52), that in his journey into Connaught he arrived at a plain near the present Lough Hacket, in the county of Galway, where he found three pagan pillar-stones, " quae gentilitas ibi in memoriam aliquorum jacinorum vel gentilitum rituum posuit ;" on these stones he caused to be inscribed the names of the Redeemer, Jesus, Salvator, Soter. That his example was extensively followed, we have ample evidence in the huge rough monoliths so often met with, upon which rude crosses are inscribed ; monuments of that type never erected by Christian hands, but evidently sanctified at a remote period by imposition of the sacred symbol. — Ogam Inscribed Monuments of the Gaedhil, p. 95. This quotation throws considerable light upon the origin of the crosses found on pillar-stones, or tneini hirion, in all parts of Chris- tendom. That such stones with an inscribed cross became memorials of Christian graves is an opinion held by Mr. Brash. He says : — That stones inscribed with ogam characters should have been found on sites hallowed by Christianity is only reasonable to expect, and it is well known that many of our early churches were erected on sites professedly pagan ; and that these inscribed memorials found on the spot should have been used as head stones to the graves of Christians sanctified by the addition of the cross is consistent with probability and the practice of primitive Christianity. — Ogam Inscribed Monuments of the Gaedhil, p. 109. 122 Old Stone Crosses. The paucity of meini hirion in churchyards is mentioned by Mr. Brash in these words (p. 109) : — The number of these monuments found in Christian burial-grounds or Churches is few, and of these the number bearing the sacred emblem is fewer still ; and from the manner and position in which it is placed on the majority of them, it is quite evident that the ogam pillar was changed from its original purpose, and turned into a Christian monument by the imposition of the cross. I will venture to make only one more quotation from Mr. Brash's valuable work, though much more might be quoted directly connected with the matter under consideration. Mr. Brash, speaking of ogham inscribed stones in Wales, writes (p. 112) : — The handy-work of the Christianizers has also been found on them in the form of crosses of an antique type, inscribed as usual on the bases of the monuments, when they were appropriated to Christian uses. The Church of Trallong, in Brecknockshire, contains a fine example of the ogam inscribed pillar. It bears a bilingual inscription, and has a plain cross in a circle inscribed on its original base. Many years before Mr. Brash's work was published, Mr. Taliesin Williams, Iolo Morganwg's son, issued a small book of poetry, called The Doom of Colyn Dolphyn, with notes. I will take the liberty of quoting one of these notes : its appositeness shall be my justifi- cation. This gentleman writes (p. 107) : — The Christian Churches in this kingdom were founded either on the sites of Druidic Temples (Llannau — and the ancient term Llan is prefixed to such) or contiguous to them. Llanilid and Llangewydd, in Glamor- ganshire, among many others, are corroborative instances. At Llanilid the old Druidic oratory (Gwyddfa) still remains, nearly perfect ; reverently spared by Papist and Protestant Not a vestige of the old Church at Llangewydd remains, except that the boundaries of the church- yard, appearing higher than the rest of the field (still called Cae'r Hen Eglwys), may be traced, and that bones are occasionally turned up ; but two large stones, apparently the remains of a cromlech, prior to Chris- tianity, yet stand there. The existence of two large stones, " apparently the remains of a cromlech " in a deserted church burial ground is particularly interesting to us, since similar remains at present stand in Llan- gernyw churchyard. In the foregoing quotations no mention is made of the form of these twice appropriated pieces of ground ; but if they are found to be circular or ovoidal, then most probably, the round churchyards, Llangernyw. 12$ which are quite common in Wales, were sacred spots in the days of out Celtic forefathers, and the churches that stand on them are the most ancient in the Principality. About twenty yards from these two upright stones in Llangernyw Churchyard are two others, deeply imbedded in the ground, with an altar tomb, bearing date 1665 a.d., be- tween them (Fig. c). They are not pillar-stones, but boulders, and resemble the stones which form the boundaries of the circular enclosures of the Cist feini still found on the hills of Carnarvonshire, and other places, and marking the graves of the ancient dead. Taking these boulder stones ap-it,^ z x -.- Stones in churchyard. Fig. c. in connection with the pillar-stones in the churchyard, they seem to point to the former existence of a series of ancient stone remains there, a few only of the stones having reached our days, the two upright ones being preserved because they have on them the sacred symbol, and the others because they protect the tomb of a once well- known and highly respected family. It remains to be remarked that the Church was founded in the fifth century by Digain, son of Cystenyn Gorneu : hence probably the name of the parish, Llangernyw. FAIRS HELD IN CHURCHES AND CHURCHYARDS. Mention has been made of fairs being held in consecrated ground, and Llangernyw was probably one of the last places in Wales where the practice was kept up. Fairs were prohibited in churches and churchyards towards the end of the thirteenth century. In a synod at Exeter in 1287, the custom is condemned and forbidden. The. 13th article of the synod has reference solely to this custom. It is entitled, " Ne in ecclesiis vel coemeteriis earum mercata vel placita secularia teneantur, vel sedificia secularia construantur," or, in other words, it states that — Neither fairs nor secular amusements are to be J 24 Old Stone Crosses. held in churches or churchyards, nor are secular buildings to be erected thereon. The words forbid, in the most clear and forcible language, the continuance of fairs and games in those places : — . . . Districte prohibendo statuimus, ne in quibuscunque ecclesiis nostrae dioecesis, atriis earum, vel ccemeteriis mercata seu placita secularia de caetero teneantur ; nee ullas negotiationes quisquam exercere praesumat, nee aedificia secularia inibi construere, nisi pro communi utilitate (et) hostilitatis tempore necessitas id exposcat. Et si quae hactenus constructa fuerint, ipsa praecipimus demoliri. — Concilia, vol. ii., p. 140. This, freely rendered into English, is : — We strictly forbid fairs or secular amusements to be held hereafter in any churches whatsoever in our diocese, their porches, or churchyards ; also we forbid anyonu to presume to carry on any business matters, or erect secular buildings therein, unless, for the common good in time of war, expediency may demand it. And if any such buildings have heretofore been erected, we command them to be destroyed. It is almost certain that the effect of this prohibition was local ; for we find the Archbishop of Canterbury, in 1305, issuing a similar mandate respecting the church and churchyard of Newenham, in which fairs, bargains, and games were being carried on. His Grace alludes to the evil, and its consequences, and commands the same to be put an end to. (See Concilia, vol. ii., p. 282.) That fairs continued long after 1305 in churches and churchyards may be inferred from the injunctions of King Edward VI., published in 1549:— 12. Item. That the churchwardens suffer no buying or selling, gaming or unfitting demeanour in church or churchyards, especially during the common prayer, the sermon, and reading of the homily. — Concilia, vol. iv., P-33- It was not in England only that the evil so repeatedly condemned and prohibited existed, but Wales was also guilty of the same offence. The Rev. D. R. Thomas, in his History of the Diocese of St. Asaph, speaking of the parish of Llangernyw, says : — The Rural Dean's Report for 1749 has a curious notice suggestive of the primitive ways of the place, and of the old connection between the fairs and the church. The Dean reports of Llangernyw — " Here is a custom, which I think, very odd and unbecoming, and which ought to be altered. There are five fairs yearly kept in this village, and at every one of them the churchyard porch is made use of by butchers to hang and sell their meat in. Earthen and wooden ware, wool, and several other things are exposed Llangernyw. 12$ for sale in the churchyard, and I saw some pedlars have their stalls there. In the church porch are kept, by the clerk, collars, bridles, pack saddles, ropes, and other gears. These, indeed, were formerly kept, as I am told, in the church ; and they may, perhaps, be so again, unless they are in time ordered farther from it." (P. 389.) All this, Mr. Thomas says, was in the following year remedied, though not without some difficulty and opposition. Llangernyw was not singular in the custom condemned by the Dean. Other church porches and churchyards were similarly used. But from the action of the Dean, the use of church porches and churchyards for the purposes mentioned was in 1749 almost unknown, though at one time common, as will now be shown. WARES SOLD IN CHURCH PORCHES. Formerly, as I have said, pedlers exposed their wares for sale in church porches, and proof is not wanting that provision was made in the construction of the porches to enable vendors to exhibit their merchandise to the full view of the people. Thus, at Llangar old Church, near Corwen, is an old porch, which has on the east side two sets of stone seats, the one above the other, 22 inches apart. The lower seat is about a foot or so from the ground, and ig inches broad ; the upper is about a yard from the ground, and 10 inches broad. There is in the parish a tradition that these ledges, or seats, were made for the purpose of enabling sellers to display their wares. The sale would take place at such times as the parishioners congre- gated in church, and this was usually on Sundays and holy days. The custom approached our grandfathers' days. A beam above the 4oor of Llangar Church bears date 1702, and whatever alterations the porch then underwent, the seats were left intact, and the tradition above mentioned is still green. The prevalence of the use of church porches as stalls appears also from the following injunction issued in 1571 : — No pedlar or other to set his wares to sell in church porch or church yard, nor anywhere else on holidays or Sundays, while any part of divine service was in doing, or while any sermon was in preaching. — Concilia, vol. iv., p. 269. Such only were the limits to Sunday dealings in porches and churchyards in the sixteenth century. 126 Old Stone Crosses. WHY FAIRS WERE HELD IN CONSECRATED GROUND. I have already said something as to the reason for holding fairs and markets in churchyards ; but it can partly be accounted for by the fact that there people usually congregated, and the Rev. D. R. Thomas thinks the privilege of sanctuary possessed by churchyards was a reason why fairs were held there. The persons of those who frequented fairs held on consecrated ground were inviolable, and this was a very important consideration in troublous times. The great regard which the Welsh had for consecrated ground is shown by the Archdeacon of St. Davids. Giraldus Cambrensis, speaking of the Welsh in his days, 1 146-1223, says : — We observe that they show a greater respect than other nations to churches and ecclesiastical persons, to the relics of saints, bells, holy books, and the cross, which they devoutly revere ; and hence their churches enjoy more than common tranquillity. For peace is not only preserved towards all animals feeding in churchyards, but at a great distance beyond them, where certain boundaries and ditches have been appointed by the bishops, in order to maintain the security of sanctuary. But the principal churches to which antiquity has annexed the greater reverence extend their protection to the herds as far as they can go, to feed in the morning and return at night. — Giraldus Cambrensis, Bohn's Edition, p. 507. The veneration shown towards consecrated places and things by the ancient inhabitants of Wales goes far towards proving that during fairs held within the sanctuary hostilities would by mutual agreement cease, and it is very likely that advantage was taken of this feeling to do business within the precincts of consecrated grounds, and that in this way the Church was connected with fairs and markets. LLANNEFYDD. VILLAGE CROSS. ,|CIiTfcsr2P&-' i HIS Cross formerly stood in the centre of the village of Llannefydd, at the junction of the Llansannan with the Denbigh road. As it was thought to be an obstruction, and also somewhat of a nuisance, owing to persons' congregating about it, it was removed by the parishioners and the Vicar, the Rev. E. Jones, to the Vicarage grounds in 1871, and there it now stands. In the last century the Cross was converted into a sun-dial. There is an almost obliterated inscription cut into the stone, around the brass dial plate, which, as far as it could be deciphered, was as follows :— " The gift of S r . . | . . . BAR IT . 1756." The gift here mentioned was the dial, and not its stand, which is very much older than 1756. The giver only appropriated the remains of the Village Cross, even if he did not cut it down, to place the dial upon it. There is a tradition in the village that the sun-dial was a present from Sir Robert Cotton of Llewenny Hall to the parishioners. If so, the initials of Sir Robert Cotton, or rather Sir Robert Salusbury Cotton, were probably on the stone originally, though at present they are obliterated. The tradition is corroborated in part by Pennant, who says, speaking of " Lleweni Hall " — At present it is the seat of the honourable Thomas Fitzmaurice, brother to the Marquis of Landsdown, purchased about ten years ago by him from Sir Robert Salusbury Cotton, baronet, of Combermere-Abby, in Cheshire. That gentleman possessed the place by the marriage of his ancestor, Sir Robert Cotton, with Hester, sister to Sir John Salusbury, the last baronet of his name, in the time of Charles II. — Pennants Tour in Wales {Carnar- von Edition) vol. ii., pp. 139 — 140. 9 128 Old Stone Crosses. '"'