'^w^ i^a^M^ (JIamrll Imupraitij liibtarg 3tlfara. Nevn fnrk CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES yVILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 1876 1918 Cornell University Library DS 507. F69 An American cruiser in the East :trayels 3 1924 023 270 873 The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924023270873 An xAmerican Cruiser in the East *' Pass not unmarked the islands In that sea, Wliere nature chainis the m(js.t celebrity, Half hidden, stretching in a lengthened line In front of China, Japan abounds In mines of sdvcr fine, Antl shall enlightened be by lioly taith divine." CamuENS, The Lustad_ AN AMERICAN CRUISER IN THE EAST Travels and Studies i?i the far East The Aleutian Islands, Behring's Sea, Eastern Siberia, Japan, Korea, China, Formosa, Hong Kong, and the Philippine Islands BY JOHN D. FORD Rear Admiral, United States Navy ILLUSTRATED THIRD EDITION New York A. S. Barnes and Company 1905 * Pass not unmarked the islands In that sea, AVIiere nature claims the most celebrity. Halt hidden, stretching in a lengthened line In front p 65 A Japanese Actor 6(3 Dai Butsu, THE "Gre.vt Buiidiia," near Kamakma, Japan . (q Enoshema, Japan 70 Japanese Jtnks 7- Harvesting the Rice in Jap\n 73 A Street Scene, Tokio, Jap.\n 77 M.vKiNG Rice Flour, Japan 79 Wistari.v So A Garden, T. ikio, Jap.\n •'si Entrance to Kwanin Tempi. i:, near Tokio, J.\p\n .... ,83 Vegetables in Japan S7 Japanese Acrobats 8.S Sweets and Toys 89 Japanese Jugglers ' 9° X List of Illustrations Page Entrance to the Mortuary Temit.es of the Shoguns at Sheba, near Tokiu, Japan 91 Japanese Troubadours 93 Temple of the Shoouns, Sheba, near Tokio, Japan ... 95 The Temple Font at the Shogun Temples, Sheha, near Tokio, Japan 97 Ancient Japanese Armor 98 Temple of the .Shoguns, Sheba, near Tokio, Japan ... 99 Temples of the Shoguns at Sheba, near Tokio, Japan . loi Tomb of " Roku Dai," the Si.xth Tokugawa Shogun, Sheba, near Tokio, Japan 102 Temple of the Shoguns, Sheba, near Tokio, Japan . . . 103 A Japanese School 106 Japanese Wrestlers 107 Japanese Wrestlers 109 A IjO'pus Field no In a Japa.nese Rick-Field iij The Mikado's Palace at Tokio, Japan 115 Bamboo Grove at Fukiagu, Tokio, Japan 118 Chrysanthemums 120 A Sedan Chair in Japan 121 Shimonoseki, the Entrance to the Inland Sea of Japan . 124 "The Falls" at Kobe, Japan 125 Japanese WoodT'edler 126 Kobe and the Inland Sea of Japan 127 Japanese Fruit Shop 129 Dry Goods Shop, Kobe, Japan 130 Japanese DancinoGirls, — the "Geisha" . 131 Japanese Babies 132 A Trip into the Country, — the "Kaga" 133 Japanese Carpenters 135 A Japanese Barber Shop 136 Nunabiki Waterfall at Kobe, Japan 137 One Method of Irrigating the Land in Japan ..... 140 A Japanese Clog-Maker 142 A Japanese Home Dinner 143 Japanese Doctor and Patient , 144 How They Sleep in Japan 145 The Family Bath, Japan 146 List of Illustrations xi Page Making the Toilet, Japan 147 The Hair-Dressek in Jai-an 14S The Sick Baee, Japan 149 A Taitoukd Japanese 150 Japanese Ciioper 151 Picking Tea Leaves in Japan 153 Japanese Cabinet-Makek at Osaka 154 Japanese Pottery at Osaka, Japan 155 Enfrance to Nagasaki Harikir. Papinberg in the Dis- tant Centkk 157 Japanese Sampan Ferry 159 Up the Mountain Stream, Nagasaki, Japan 160 The Hillside Graves 161 An Old Stone Bridge, Nagasaki, Japan 163 Japanese Toy Pedler 165 Fish and Fresh Pk'jA'ision Shop, Japan 166 Nagasaki Harbor at Noon on a Fourth of July .... 167 Artists Decor.vitng L.vnterns 169 A FUNER.\L PrliCESSION IN JAPAN I/I Coffin and Fl'neral Ornaments, Jap.\n 172 A J.vPANESE Country House near Nagasaki, Jap.\n ... 173 In the Rice-Field 174 The Dry Dock at Nagasaki, J.vpan 175 Japanese Bull Cart i;9 "The Old iHLL" at Nagasaki, Japan iSo Moll, Japan iS- HiLLSiDE Graves of the Martyrs, Moji, J.vpan 1S3 Ancient J.\panese ^YARRIOR 1S7 Japanese Firemen on Parade I93 Shinto Priest, J.vpan 196 Buddhist Priest, Japan i99 Japanese Wood-Carvinl; 200 JaP-\nese Homes -O- J.vp.vnese Tramps -°4 A Coolie 207 JL\KING U-MBRELL.vs in Japan -09 Japanese \Vood-C,\rver 211 Japanese Lacquer \V.\re 213 An Instrumental Concert, Japan 217 xii List of Illustrations Page Jafanese Artists Decora itm-. Porcelain -21 A Chinese Cart 227 CuEMrLTO, Korea -37 A Delegation i-iF Koreans Visit the "Alert" 245 Korean Mourning Costume 247 Seoul, the Capital oe Korea 251 Gateww to Seoul 253 GaVeww tij the Kinc.'s Palace, Se(jul, Korea .... 255 Tin Korean Army 257 PiNc.-YANi;, Kl'REA 259 Fortifications and Governor's Hoi^se, Ping-yang Lnlet . 263 A Korean Young Woman 265 A Korean House, Ping-yang Inlkl 266 Fortieications 267 Korean Buddhisf Priests 270 Eroi:ghton Baa" and Gen-san 272 His Majesty LuFin, King "K Korea, and his Royal Hic.ii- ness the Crown Prince 2S0 The Prime Minister ov Korea 2S2 The "Choson," the only Vessel in the Korean Navy . 2S4 A Korean Family 286 Sacred White Horse oe Jungu Temple 2SS The Korean Army, — Skirmish Drill 289 Chinese Junk 293 A Road in Shanghai, China 303 Waier-F'kont, Nin'H-'o, China 305 A Corner of the City Wall, Ningpo, China 307 The Pontoon Bridge, Ningpo, China 309 A Ningpo Chinese Family 311 NiNG.po Chinaman 316 (_'hakt of "ihe World 321 Old B\nvan-Trees 327 The Deified Rocks ap Amoy, China 332 Foreign Residences at- Korlangsoo, Amoy, China .... 335 IjAmpotoh Temple, Amo\', China 337 Woman of S\yato\v, China 340 Map op Olpj Canton 349 ']"he ISare Pagoda, Canpon, China 357 Chinese Punish.menp,— In thi: Cauc.ue 359 List of Illustrat ions ."AN, (_ AXTiiN A Knotty Case in Olh Canton . A Cantonese Family EXECTTION OF CHINESE ReBEI.S . Temple of the Ocean Banners, II Tlie NYater-Fronl of Old Caxlox Ca.mel Car\\an louni) FnR Pekino, China hong-kong The Queen's Ki>ai), Hong-koni: The Water-Fron'l, Hongkong in a Fog The Parsee Cemetery in the IIaity A'allly, Hong-kong Resil>ence of the Taklar General, New Chwano,, ;;ii!na ^yoman of nokihern cliina Manila, Philitpine Islands An Indian Warrior "F iiie PiiiLirpiNE Islands .... Chlrch of Dominic.\ns, M.\nila /;,,-, N.ATIYES OF M.VNILA, PhILII'I'INE IsLANDS Bell Tower shaken by E.VKTiirjr.vKE, Xew CAiiiEiii;Ai , JIasila /.;„-, Open Air Theaire, M.vnil.v A NaTIYE OF JI.\NIL.\, I'lIlLIITIXE ISL.\.NDS ^^VLLEY OF THE Al'OSTLES, C.WIIE /;;,-/ A X.ATIYE OF M.VNILA, I'lIlLiriTNE IsI,.\NDS A Cock-FTt .\t Manila, I'hii.iittne Islands The Unt.vmei] Indians of the Philiipine Im..\nds , . . XaTIYES of MaN1L,\, rillLllTTNE ISLANDS C.\y-Sabo Ri\"ek, (.■.will-. y-'.u/ X.iTiVE Bell ."^^led. M.\xil\, Philippine Isl.vnds .... Native Wom.\n of Manila, Philuttne Isi..\nds .... J.\PA.NESE MoUNILD InF,\N1RY. BV A JaP.ANESE ARITSP Imperial Chinese Tromi's Japanese Artillery. By a J\p\nese Artist Battle of M,\nil.\ B.vy Pasig River, M.\nil\. CJovERxriR-CENERAL's Pai-vce . /•;;. Manila FIarbor, S .\. m., ^iI.vy i, 1S9S Effect of 5-INCI1 Shell ex Mai.ite F'jrt .... (Spanish Fl.vg-ship) " Rein.a Cristina," M.w i, iSqS "IsL.v P'E Luzon," M.\v i, 1S9S "Castilla," May i, 1S9S " S.\N Antonio de L'llh.v," M.\y i, 1898 XIU Page • 3'ii ■ 363 ■ 366 ■ 3'i9 • 373 • .I'll ■ 399 . 401 ■ 403 ■ 404 , 411 ■ 415 . 419 ■ 4-2 ■„' 4-- 4-3 ',;' 4-4 4^6 ■ 4-7 ■s" 4^8 ■ 4-9 ■ 431 • 433 436 '-.' 436 • 43S ■ 439 , 446 ■ 459 • 464 , 4S1 ',;' 484 4S6 486 488 48 8 490 490 XIV List ot Illustrations Chukch of PaKANAIJIT].; The Lattle of i'avitk Corner of Ulfi Citv Wale, Manila (Bay Side) . . Old City Wall, Manila (Land Side) Sanglev Poinl JIafi'eky after Engagement ■with THE "Paltimore" Page 494 496 496 „ 498 Introduction AFTER a term of duty at the Baltimore Manual Training School, having watched its growth from nothing to ii\'e hundred students; having seen four classes of one hundred and twenty young men graduated, settled in good employ- ments, and well started in their chosen litework ; having witnessed the material increase from two bare floors in the old schoolhouse on Courtland Street to the acquisition and equipment ot the entire building, together with the lease and equipment of the annex, on the opposite side of the street, and the erection and furnishing of the five-story building adjoining and connecting with the old schoolhouse, — I opened my mail, on the 2d of July, I 890, and found an order which required me to report tor duty in San Francisco on the 13th of the month. The work had been laborious. There were some data for other circumstances, but none to suit our conditions. We were doing pioneer work. Every lesson and every course of stud\', both in the laboratories and the draughting- rooms, had to be studied out and devised, in order to obtain such as would furnish the largest amount of hand and eve work, so that it could be made to supplement the purely liter- ary work, blending together and producing the desired result, thus solving the problem, How to adjust Manual Train- ing to the Public-School System ? The results show how well or how ill the work has been done. I 2 Introduction Although my official relations with the school had been severed by the receipt of the order, I devoted the remaining days to getting things in shape for my unlcnown successor, and had never realized until then how it had endeared itself to me. But the last day came, as last days always will come! His Honor the Mayor, and the Officers and Members of the School Board tendered me a farewell dinner at the Rennert. After sitting through the feast, from the oysters to the black coffee and cigars, where all had kind words and pleasant wishes, we all stood and sang " Auld Lang Syne." Then came the hardest part of all, the " good-bye " and the " God bless you." A little later, I bade farewell to dear old Baltimore, and took rny seat in a Pullman sleeper of the " Overland Flyer," on the hottest night that has been known in this section for many years. As the train was rushing through the tunnel and beyond, I remembered how kind and helpful all had been to the work I was leaving behind. Our Senators and Representatives had interested themselves in it from its inception. The newspapers had sent their representatives, investigated, and commended. The Mayor, the Councils, and the School Board had been generous in their appropria- tions. The Chairman and Committee had always been a unit for the school. The Faculty was devoted and zealous, and the great majority of the students appreciated their opportunities. The next night Chicago was reached and left behind us, and we were still rushing through the great flat, treeless plains towards the Rocky Mountains. Council Bluffs, Omaha, Grand Island, Cheyenne, Laramie, Green River, Granger, Ogden, Winnemucca, Reno, Trucker, and Sum- Introduction 3 itiit, seven thousand feet abo\e the sea-level, and scores of other cities and towns, were passed by as we sped from prairie to desert and o\er hills and mountains. From Sum- mit the road ran down the Pacific slope, through Sacra- mento to Oakland, where we crossed the bay in the bit:; steamer to San Francisco, ha\ing left Baltimore late on Tuesday night and arri\ ed in San Francisco on the follow- ing Sunda\' morning. The car services, sleeping and din- ing, left nothing to be desired. Ha\ing completed m\' dut\" in San Francisco b\- the end of September, I repaired to the Alare Island Na\\' Yard, and joined the U. S. S. "Alert" for a cruise in Behring Sea and the far East. The cruise was \ ery interesting, and the experiences were \aluable. Behring Sea and Korea were re\'elations to me. During a large portion of the cruise we visited japan, China, Hong-kong, and the Philippines, which ga\"e me the opportunity to compare, modity, or con- firm the impressions of vears ago ; and my desire is, to show those countries and their people as I saw them. An American Cruiser in the East CHAPTER I THE START ON the morning of the i8th of jinie we cast off the lines that hound us to the watei-front of the Mare Island Na\ y Yard, and steamed down the river towards San Francisco. After reaching the bay, we changed our course to keep clear of the great steamer which plies between that city and Oakland ; and passing b\- the citv, we rounded to, and stood through the Golden Gate, running against a stiff breeze and a heavy chopped sea. As soon as we were well outside ot the land, upon the bosom ot the broad Pacific, bearini^s were taken, and the \'essel was headed tor Unalaska, Aleutian Islands, about twenty-two hundred miles awa\'. I he clouds lowered and became almost black, and the once chopped sea wraduallv increased until we had a hea\'\' head sea, causing the old ship to roll and pitch in a most uncomfortable manner. The little ship, that was to be our home for the next two vears and a halt, was an iron steamer, 175 teet long, 35 feet beam, 15 teet 6 inches deep, and ot 1,020 tons' displacement. It was full bark-rigged, and had an old- fashioned bow. Her armament consisted of one eleven- inch smooth-bore pivot gini, two nine-inch smooth-bore broadside 2;uns, one sixty-pounder breech-loading rifle, and several machine guns and brass pieces. 6 An American Cruiser in the East We had a lot of almost worthless Japanese for servants, — poor fellows, who had left their island home to seek then- fortunes in America. They had met with poor success, and were discouraged and homesick. To get away trom their uncongenial surroundings, and with the hope of ultimately reaching Japan, they shipped as servants for our cruise. They made poor seamen ; for as the gale increased, boy after boy disappeared, — sick, down with inal de mer^ — and before the close of the day we had but one servant in con- dition for service. One boy to look after a dozen of us ! Our head wind and sea stuck to us, and continued to increase, as though winds and seas never came from any other direction. After experimenting tor tour days, it was determined to abandon the direct course to Unalaska, and to make a leading wind of the present freshness, run- ning into Victoria, British Columbia, to refill our bunkers and to make a new start. The bad weather we were experiencing gave us the opportunity of testing the seamanship and endurance of our men, as a great deal of sail-drilling was necessary ; and before the end of it we realized that we had about as tine a crew as ever went to sea. Many of them were not only good seamen, but possessed qualities that promote the happiness of a ship's company. There were some jewels in the engine department, — men who worked well, and in the early watches of the night excelled in song and dance ; they could " spout " quotations from an " improved " Shake- speare or the dime " Ready Speaker," with a fervor and gesture that would cause an actor to blush. These inter- ested and amused the forecastle and the fire-room, and made Jack's time pass pleasantly during the loneliest hours of the nights, from tea-water to hammocks. We had men who were formerly elegant " barn-stormers," hut had been finan- cially wrecked in their showy ventures; also an ex-negro minstrel from down the coast, and an athlete who had seen The Start 7 Sullivan ; but the cream of the crew was the dude barber, whose carrot\' frizzes were alwa\s parted in the middle. He wore the finest embroidered trousers and shirts, and the ship's name, in solid silver, on his cap ribbon ; his clocked silk hose and elegant pumps were the envy of all the young- sters, from the forecastle to the maintop. He could trip the light fantastic toe, in hornpipe or jig, make good music from almost anv instrument, " splice the main-brace," or jump aloft as nimbly as any. Of course, such a paragon soon became the fa\'orite of the crew, and, to his credit, he held this good opinion throughout the cruise. As I have stated, we had artists and poets amongst the crew, and many of their stories of imagination, told to a gaping audi- tory in the dark midnight watches, might "cause each particular hair to stand on end," or provoke mirth that would disturb the slumbers of the watch below ; and we had some old fellows who were so salt that they would secure all the sea water they could stow away, to use for bathing purposes when the vessel was in fresh-water rivers. Early on the 24th, we sighted the OUmpics and headed for Cape Flattery, the most northerly point of land project- ing from the State of Washington, and just opposite V^an- couver Island. ^Ve entered the Strait of Juan de Fuca, between the cape and the island, and headed for Victoria, British Columbia. On one side of the strait, the great black mountains are covered with dense forests until the snow-line is reached ; beyond which the darkness is trans- formed into an eternal whiteness, rending the heavens and piercing the clouds, thousands of feet above us. Several Indian villai^es are scattered along the foot of the moun- tains. Bra\'es, and squaws with their pappooses, stroll along the beach and admire the great white war-canoe that is forging its way through the waters. Others paddle their canoes upon the quiet waters, or haul seine or line in pur- suit of unwary members of the finny tribe. 8 An American Cruiser in the East A cool breeze and calm sea bring our late, not sea-sick, but sick of the sea, messmates from their rooms, with appetites as big as the ship. Crackers, cheese, and beer are in demand ; and the stentori.in voice ot our most excellent caterer is heard in \'ain protests against this dan- gerous raid upon the sea stores. As the dav passes into night, the (31\ mpics, with a nearly full moon shining upon them, appear like masses of blackness capped with dancing gold ; and the old ship speeds on through placid waters, carr\ina^ a mass of sibxrv wa\'es at her bow, which make faint dashes, and are lost upon the beach, wheie the tiny lights and fires of the Indians dance like "will-o'-the- wisps " amidst the blackness. About ten o'clock we anchored near the inner harbor of Victoria, and were soon surrounded bv a little fleet ot pleasure-boats, whose happy occupants gave us some fine music, instrumental as well as \'ocal ; and we found that these wood people were as curious to see a Yankee man-of-war as the Indians of the strait had been. Victoria, British Columbia Victoria is situated on the southern end of Vancouver Island, in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and has grown from old Fort \Villiam, a trading post, which is nearly as old as the fur-trade on the North Pacific coast. It is still a seat of the Hudson Bay Company, which has fine store- houses in the city, where almost anything can be purchased or traded. The fur-trader was close behind the hunter, and they were soon followed by the prospector and the miner, as vast quantities of gold were supposed to be hidden in the hills. The finds were not equal to the expectations, and the rush soon cleared out what was there ; but the coal mines that were discovered have proven themselves The Start 9 I'astlv more important to this portion of the world than the precious metal could possihU' ha\ e been. The mines at Nainaimo and \icmit\- supply the whole upper Pacific coast, including San Francisco as well as the railroads and ship- ping, and make lite, manufactures, and conmierce possible. Timber is abundant, but the go\ernment cares for it, and Its cutting, on a large scale, is discouraged. The business portion ot the cit\" is built around an inner harbor which is protected bv a point of land that juts out into the strait. Man\" imp]"o\ cments are being made in this part ot the citv ; roads and streets are being changed and graded ; hollows and low places are being filled in, and hills remG\ed, gi\'ing the place a " fussy " appearance. There are manv handsome buildings that would be orna- ments in any citv. Through the streets several lines of cars are run, dri\'en bv electric motors. They make good speed, are easil)' handled, and have many advantages over the cable cars run in San Francisco. The poor car-horse is on the e\'e ot emancipation, and there seems to be no excuse for his further emplo\'ment in that capacit\-. The streets — roads, they are called — are lighted with electric lights. The curious old custom is prescr\'ed in Victoria of firing a warning gun at nine in the e\-ening ; and at nine thirty a second gun is fired, when all the public lights are ex- tincruished and the streets and roads are m darkness. Everything mo\"es sknvlv here. Business is done in a very quiet way, and the shopkeeper's life seems an easy one. There is no push or dri\e, and no ad\-ertising, as we see it in our home cities. No attempt is made to push o-Qods in the shops ; the\' are shown, on incptiry the price is named, and \oii buy or not, as )-ou please ; and )-ct a \'ast business is done in this quiet, easy wa\-, and handsome profits are realized. Business does not begin until after nine in the morning, and ends at four in the atternoon. lo An American Cruiser in the East The hotels are excellent, and are conducted on the Eng- lish plan. The residents' portion of the city extends over hills and valleys, and far up the strait, where, surrounded by neat little gardens filled with beautiful flowers or carefully kept lawns, stand villas and cottages, — the homes of the people. The roads are hard, smooth, and admirably cared for. They are bordered with trim hedges, and brightly painted gates open from them into little gardens. In the quiet summer e\enings, the air is laden with sweet per- fumes from these dainty gardens of roses. The houses are picturesque and ^'aried, and oi a com- posite order of architecture that is con\enient and attrac- tive. A'lany of the houses are built of bricks with hand- some stone trimmings, while a larger number are of wood, painted in pleasing tints ; and all have an air of quiet refinement and elegance. The climate is in\ igorating and healthv. The summers are delightful, and the winters are comparativel\- mild, for the latitude. The city contains about twentv thousand inhabitants, its population having doubled in the last three years. ^^'e dro\e to " Beacon Hill " to see the magnificent sun- set, and sat through the long twilight, which lasts about two hours. The route led o\er a fine, hard road, sur- rounded b\' handsomeh" hedged gardens, whose delicious perfumes filled the air; and the elegant houses lent their beauty to the e\er-changing panorama, as we wended our wa\- up among the hills. Beacon Hill is a bare knoll of greensward, with a flagstafl^ from which the British jack is thrown to the breezes. From this spot a most magnificent \'ic\v IS obtanied. Ill tlic \ allc\ below us nestles a \illage with its cluster of g.iidens and bright little cottages. We see the coast-line Willi us restless, e\'er-lashing sea ; and beyond, an arm of the se.i studded with islands, while here and there little boats The Start 1 1 and steamers are feeling their way through the winding channels. Yonder, the forest-covered Olympics, and in the far-off distance the snow-capped mountains of the Pacific hold up their heads in solemn grandeur. As the " da\-god " sank into the bosom of " Balboa's ocean," the tints changed from blue to silver, to gold, to fiery vermilion, the outlines of the mountains were tipped with old rose, and finally all melted into one streak of rosy red, when the heavens and the earth seemed to meet each other, and we realized that it was night, and the stars were on guard. The guns ha\ing been fired, the lights were extinguished, and our ride back to the hotel was dismal. The lonely watchman threw the ravs of his dark lantern upon us, peered at us through the darkness, and cried out : " Ten — o' — clock, — a — clear — bright — night ! " Then all was dark and still. At Sea On the 30th, we said good-bye to our new-made friends and made another start for Behring Sea. When we had cleared the land, and the \'essers course was set, we found ourselves confronted bv head winds and seas that caused the ship to pitch and roll to such a degree as to make life miserable. On the night of the 3d, the wind and sea died out, and the 4th opened with almost a calm, with a smooth sea and as bright a sun as e\'er shone. The boys had not sufKcienth' reco\'ered from their second attack of sea-sickness to make any attempt at celebrating the day, and the "glorious Fourth " came and went with only the " storm flag " fl\-ing. During the night of the 4th, the fair weather left us, and by daylight we had strong head winds and seas, with cold, gloomy weather. The 6th brought us some remark- able weather, — a cold Scotch mist with drizzly rain. 1 2 An American Cruiser in the East Thi-oimh this the sun vvoiilil shine bright'i\ for about twenty minutes ; then the mist would shut the sun out tor about the same length of time, — anJ so it went on, repeating the order for the whole day. The next day brought us a heav\ sea with a dense fog. The ship, ha\'ing been light- ened up considerabU' by the use i)t stores, rolled \ery deep, and the creaking bulkheads and blowing steam whistle were not soothiiio; music tor nerves already strained in endeavors to penetrate the fog and discover the rocky shoie ahead. Owing to the flatness ot the earth in these latitudes, there are chances for graxe errors in estimating distances; and the fact that these waters ha\'e ne\-er been carefully surveyed and charted, makes naxigation extremely hazardous. Atter leaving Victoria, our only visible neio;hbors were several schools ot whales and Jiumerous stray seals. Early on the morning of the 9th, the fog having cleared away, the peculiar haze, which the seaman knows to be land, was disco\'cred ahead ot us. Keeping on our course, we were soon between snowy mountains, whose chilly winds sent cold shivers through oiu" frames. The grandeiu' ot the scenery was fascinating, and held us almost spell- bound, in spite of the cold, as we felt our way through the Onalga pass, which leads into Behring Sea. On one side of us were rugged, snow-capped mountains, upon whose rocky sides not a vestige ot \erdure could be seen, with here and there mad torrents of melted snow plunging into the sea alm<.)st at our feet ; or mountain sides of emerald and black, up to the snow-line, from whence began their co\ering of white. On the port hand was Mount " Makooshin," 5,500 feet above the sea, sending forth ashes and smoke; on the starboard, mighty cone-shaped " Shisaldiji," towering 8,500 feet towards the heavens, with its everlasting mantle of snow, the mad waters of ocean and sea dashing themselves against its rocky base. All about us were islands and great snow-capped peaks, which we The Start 3 passed and left in the distance. " Priest Rock " stoi)d out ot the sea, tall and slender, in cowl and gown, and " E'tp; Island " and " Old Man " were passed as we felt our way into Behrino; Sea. An interesting native village about six miles awav, and Beaver Bay, where Captain Cook refitted his little fleet in 1778, were visible; and by fi\e in the afternoon vye moored the ship in the outer harbor of Iliuliuk, Unalaska. CHAPTER II UNALASKA, ALEUTIAN ISLANDS Ice-built, ice-bound, and ice-bounded, Such cold seas of silence! such room! Such snow-light! such sea-light confounded With thunders that smite like a doom ! Such grandeur! such glory, such gloom! Hear that boom ! hear that deep, distant boom Of an avalanche hurled Down this unfinished world! Ice seas and ice summits! ice spaces, In splendor of white, as God's throne! Ice worlds to the pole! and ice places, Untracked and unnamed and unknown! Hear that boom! Hear the grinding, the groan Of the ice gods In pain! Hear the moan Of yon ice mountain hurled Down this unfinished world! Joaquin Miller. ILIULIUK is a beautiful harbor, surrounded by snow- capped mountains and green \'alleys. Unalaska, the settlement, has been built upon a natural crescent of low hills and plains on the southern side of the harbor, and con- sists of a Russian church, six large residences, sixty one-story wooden shanties, a few sod-houses, two storehouses, and a lot of sheds. These are the property of the Alaska Com- mercial Company, whose agent, called " Prince Paul " by the natives, manages the place, under the observation of some of our own officials, Unalaska, Aleutian Islands 15 An inner harbor is formed bv a point of land jutting out from the shore, opposite the middle of the settlement. Near by is a third harbor, opening into the main one, known as Dutchman's Bay, around whose shores a ri\'al company is erecting storehouses and shanties for use of its people in future operations. At the foot of the mountains, be- hind the settlement, there is a large fresh-water lake, which is formed by the melted snow from the mountain's side. " Prince Paul " came on board to pay his respects, and to invite us to a ball which was to be given in the palace that evening in honor of our arrixal. But as the notice was short, and as we had not been sufficiently long bc\'ond the pale of ci\ilization to indulge, we were compelled to decline the honor. W'e lunched the " Prince; " and when he had said good-bye, he insisted upon returning to the shore in his own barge, which, hv the wa\', was managed by onl\' one man. Soon after he left the vessel, a local breeze and hea\'y rain came howling through the little valley ahead ot us. The whitecaps soon sprang up from the smooth sur- face of the bay, and the " Prince's" man Friday could not pull against the wind and sea. Their barge was blown upon the beach on the opposite side of the ba\ , where, in a drenched condition, they were compelled to abandon the boat and wade through swamp and mud to the head ot the spit ; here they secured another boat and were landed near the palace. The principal part of the settlement of Unalaska faces a roadway, which extends along the beach for about two miles from the inner harbor to the little cemetery on the hillock towards the sea. In this little cemetery there are twoscore or more quaint graves marked with the double cross, and heavily fenced in to protect the inmates from the raids of hungry wild beasts. The islands are of volcanic origin. Immense rocks have been thrown up from the bottom of the sea in some past 1 6 An American Cruiser in the East age, and a thin layer of soil has been deposited upon them. The tops of the hills and mountains are co\'ered with snow, and theie is nearlv al\va\"S an ic\' breeze blowing from the mountains, a drizzl\- rain, or a fog. Efforts ha\'e been made to culti\ate the soil. In \A-ell-slieltered places the experiments ha\'e been partiallv successful, but not \'ery encouraging;. There is not a tree or a bush in the neigh- borhood. A tall, rank grass giows in sheltered places, where a few cattle are pastured untd killing time. A great \'arietv of small wild flowers, mcluding \iolets and heliotrope, grt)w about the sheltered \alle\'S. I found more than one himdred specunens, which I pressed and sent to the President of the Woman's College of Baltimore. A fine scarlet berrv, which the nati\'es call the " salmon berry," as large as a culti\'ated blackberry, and of delicious fla\'or, grows abundantly in sunshiny places, where it has protection from the cold winds. Unalaska is the huntsman's paradise, whether with rod or gun. There is no end to the sport. It is just be\ond ciyilization, or rather just on its border. There are no hotels and no boarding-places, and one must rough it all the time. The "globe-trotter" and the tourist haye not penetrated its boundaries, climbed its hills, nor drank its sparkling waters ; neither has the hotel clerk's headlight flashed along its beach. There are many fine sites for hotels, huts, or tents, and the hills are filled with brown and green stones, that are aluKJSt prepared for buildings. It is delightful to li\'e the summer through in such free- d(jm. So close to nature ! All is so peacefully cjuiet, and the musical, sihery chimes from the old church belfry are only disturbed by the dashing of the surf upon the rocks, or the howling winds that come tearing like mad from the mountain-tops. Wolyes, deer, and foxes abound on the islands. Ptarmi- gan are plenty, and ducks and geese frequent the waters Unalaska, Aleutian Islands 17 from Septcmhcr to May. The waters fairly teem with whales, sea-lions, seals, cod, salmon, halibut, flounders, and herring. Cjam\- trout gi\ e sport in the streams, while fine oysters and clams are ahuiulant. 1 he principal t)ccupation of the inhabitants is hunting and fishing. They build small canoes ("kiaks "') of the raw hide of sea animals, which the\ sew o\er a liuht framework ot wood. 1 hese the\- deck t)\'er, leaxing an opening large enough to get their legs tbi'ough. Their hunting and fish- ing garments are made of the entrails of sea-lions (jr other large animals ; consequently, the\' are waterproof. These garments are called " kamlika." After taking his seat in the " kiak," the nati\e secLn-el\- fastens the skirt of his " kamlika " tij the rim ot the deck opening, or hatch- combini;, and \\'ith the hood ot the " kamlika " secured about his head, he is prepared to ejicounter any sea, as, with the exception ot face and hands, he ne\"er becomes wet. The paddles used in these " kiaks " are double- ended, \yith broad blades, and are made of such wood as can be procured from whaling \essels of the Trading Company. The melted snow from the mountains behind the settle- ment Is collected in a little reserx'oir, which has been ter- raced into the mountain, trom \yhence it trickles dovyn the hillside int(.) a tresh-water basin. Down upon the beach, among the rocks, pebbles, and shells, a noisy family party, assisted by neighbors, were preparing hundreds of fine salmon tor the winter's tood supply. A right nierr\' crowd of merry-makers they were, and the occasion might be called an Aleute harvest. The older members of the party cut the great fish down the back, remo\-ed the entrails, and passed them on to the youngsters, — little " tackers," whose ages, perhaps, ranged from four to ten years- They chopped off the heads and car- ried the bodies of the fish to the rear of the " home," where 1 8 An American Cruiser in the East they were thrown upon the ground in a heap until some old women strung them over great ridgepoles to dry. The fish were placed high enough to be out of reach of any wild animals that might be forced into the settlement in search of food. They were neither washed, salted, nor covered. There was no other preparation than I have noted. A'lany of these fine salmon would weigh twenty or thirty pounds apiece, and the cod, in these waters, are just as heavy. During the long winter season, the men devote their time to repairing boats and seines, making lines and spears, and lounging. Many of them, when they can obtain molasses or sugar, distil it into " hoocheno," a fiery rum, which they frequently use to excess. To prevent this, the agents are particular to sell these articles invery limited quantities; but it is surprising to see the devices of the natives to obtain the fiery beverage. Their women devote the long hours of winter to making baskets, mats, and many other curious ornaments from finely split grasses, with which they weave gay-colored wools and silks. They also make odd trinkets from dried skins, and ornament them with fancy colors. The sum- mer nights are nearly as light as the day. I could read a newspaper on deck until eleven at night, afterwards a deeper twilight lasted until about two in the morning, when again the paper could be read without the assistance of artificial light. The Aleutian Islands number about one hundred and fifty, and belong to the United States, being a part of Alaska. They form a chain which extends from the west coast of America to a point within eight hundred miles of Asia. They lie in about 55 degrees of north latitude, and separate Behring Sea from the Pacific Ocean. They are naturally divided into five groups, are of volcanic forma- tion, and show evidences of earthquakes on every hand. Unalaska, Aleutian Islands 1 9 The smoke of several volcanoes caji be seen at creat distances on clear days. The whole number ot inhabitants on all the islands is about fifteen hundred, who, from their circumstances and surroundings, "are compelled to li\'e in a shiftless condition, and lead miserable li\es. They are poor stunted Indians, who rather salmon and cod m the summer tor the winter's supply of food. They live in caves and holes in the ground, or in huts made by piling rows of sods upon each other, o\er which they thatch a roof, and fasten the skin of some animal to a lintel to ser\e as a door, unless they are so fortunate as to obtain some old boards for the purpose. They dress in skins of animals, or in " store-clothes," which they receive in trade for the skins they have captured. They live on in this way until they are put into another hole in the ground, where they will remain until the last trumpet shall sound. In the settlements, the Aleute has undergone a great change since he made his first bow to the Russian m the seventeenth century. His condition is not much improved, although he has changed his language, religion, and dress. His main reliance is still upon his fish, which he captures at the old place, and in the same old way. He has learned the use of civilized goods, and rather enjov s them. Canned goods and rum are two of his chief delights. He still li\es in his ca\'e, or hut, which he would gladly exchange tor a comfortable Japanese cottage, with its charcoal fire and kerosene light, and he would have no prejudice against chano-incT his crarb for " store-clothes." He is the true son of his ancestors, and inherits many of their qualities. He is a member of the Russian Church, and can read and write the Russian language, which he has been taught by the priests. He is dependent upon the Trading Company for his living, being paid for the skins he captures, and for the work he does about the warehouses. ;o An American Cruiser in the East It «'as curious to see a coal \cssel unloaded bv women and girls, who carried great baskets filled with coal from the vessel to the coal sheds. In the centre of the sett\ement there is a neat little Russian church, which is noted for its beautiful sih-ery chimes, and its fine pictures. Se\'eral of these are truly works of art, and it is surprising that the\' are in this (jut-ot- the-wa\- place. A painting of the " Last Supper," which hangs behind the altar, is particularly fine, both in its group- inij; and colors. A picture ot the " Madonna and Infant," on the left ot the altar, is also fine, and there are several in miniature that are excellent. The solid silver altar service is artistic and massi\'e. On the right of the entrance to the church there is a solitary gra\e marked " Nestor, a Bishop ot these Islands." The monimieiit states that at one time " Nestor had been a Lieutenant in the Imperial Russian Navy, and in ci\'il life a Baron ; " the monument fails to narrate the romance which caused the change in the man's career, and brought him from the gay scenes of St. Peter>burg to these bleak rocks beyond Siberia; but here he sleeps under the shadow of his little church, where the silence is only broken by the chimes ot the silvery bells. A stroll along the beach from the boat-landing to the cemetery, about tour in the afternoon, is \'erv interestins;. The fashionables of Unalaska are out for an airino- ; to see and to be seen. The ladies of the station are dressed in fur or \'el\'et cltjaks, gay-colored skirts, and headgear that rivals the rainbow's colors; together with their escorts, in neatest outfits ot the San Francisco tailor. The reverend prie>t, in black gown, with bared head and stooping form, has a cheering smile and a kindly greeting for all. He strokes the heads of the little ones, and imprints a kiss of lo\'e and peace upon the rosy cheek of the babe. All re\-erence the gcjod father, and bow low to him in passing. Unalaska, Aleutian Islands 21 The ladies ot the " Aleute Colony " are on the promenade in gowns ot quiet colors, with wraps as bright as their own sunny smile, their hair parted in the middle and carefully made into "• Ps\che " knots. The halt-breeds, like the Creoles in southern climes, have torms and teatures of surpassing loveliness and great, flash- ing black eyes. Thev dress in the blackest products of the loom, and ha\'e cloaks of the sea-otter for handy use in the chilly breezes. They daintily pick their way over the pebbly walk that ends in the little \alley beyond the ceme- tery, where the beautiful wild flowers may be had tor the gathering. The population ot the settlement is about four hundred, of whom one hundred are whites, and three hun- dred are Aleutes and halt-breeds. Every day, after our arrival, we enjoyed tine cod and salmon, some weighing as much as twenty-fi\e pounds. The trout, ptarmigan, oysters, and clams were very fine and of delicious flavor. Cod or salmon, boiled and sea- soned with drawn butter, a dash ot salt, pepper and W^or- cestershire, with a steamed potato, as entree^ and a half-pint of Sauterne, is \ery appetizing after a climb over the hills or a stroll along the beach. Prospectors are continually rapping, sounding, and " divin- ing " about these islands and hills on the mainland. We could not go anywhere without meeting their eager, anxious, speculati\'e faces. Why not leave these islands as spots in which to hunt and angle, haul the seine, or tong the oyster and clam that wait to be lifted out ot the water .? Every two or three days, and sometimes every afternoon, a gale is loosened in the icy mountain-tops among the snow, and sweeps down upon us in all its fury. The cables be- come taut, an ugly chopped sea is raised, and cold chills are sent through our frames, the only relief being found within our little rooms near the heaters. Sometimes the days are beautiful, when the sun shines brightly and there 2 2 An American Cruiser in the East is just a " baby-breeze," when greatcoats and storm-caps are comfortable. Such we have found the Aleutian Islands, their people and climate, after spending many " summer days " in the full enjoyment of the good things nature has so bountifully supplied. But it must be remembered that the Aleutian Islands are only a small portion of our territory in this great northwest. Alaska, of which they are a portion, is an immense territory, about one fourth the size ot the entire United States. From it twenty States, each as large as any of the older States of our Union, could be formed. The distance from Eastport, Maine, to Attau, the most western island ot the Aleutian group, spans about one third around the globe. Alaska is very rich in minerals and coal, and its fishing interests are immense. Its grass lands could supply cattle for the world, and it is believed that the hardier cereals, fruits, and vegetables would flourish, if cultivated in its sheltered places. On the afternoon of the 30th of July one of our quar- termasters — Thompson — was killed in going from the coal bark to the shore. He had been visiting a party of friends on the vessel, which, nearly emptied of its coal, was high out of water, and the gang-plank was very steep. When Thompson reached the rail, he missed his footing and tell, striking his head against a large beam of wood placed in the water to keep the \esse] from the wharf. When the man was picked up by the horror-stricken people about the wharf, life was extinct. The body was taken on board our ship and prepared for burial. All night long his messmates guarded the remains, and on the after- noon of the next day a funeral party from our \'essel and other ships in port went on shore to bury the dead. The music, his messmates, and then the body, in a neat box covered by the " Union Jack," were followed by the Marine Guard and Blue Jackets, men from our other vessels Unalaska, Aleutian Islands 23 and many from the British vvar-\'essels which were there to assist us in patrolling the sea. The " Third Watch " acted as chaplain as well as commander of the funeral party. After these came the British and our own officers, in reverse order of their rank. Slowly the cortege moved along the beach to the tump, tump, tump, of the muffled drums, or the mourntul strains ot the funeral march. Nearly all the inhabitants ot the settlement stood un- covered in the drizzling rain as the procession mo\'ed by, and then accompanied it to the cemetery. Ha\ing arri\ed at the grave, all uncovered, and the " T'hird Watch " read the solemn service tor the dead, when all that was mortal of our late shipmate was tenderly lowered into his last rest- ing-place, that had been prepared by his messmates on the edge of the little cemetery. As Thompson had not been a Catholic, the priest could not officiate, neither could his remains be buried in conse- crated ground ; but who can say that no drop of water or ray of sunshine from the heavens has consecrated the ground " Where, wrapped in his tarpauhn jacket, A poor sailor lies low " ? Thompson had served long and faithfully. He was a good man and an excellent sailor. CHAPTER III CRUISING IN BEHRING SEA WE cruised about Behring Sea for thirty days, guard- ing the passes, hunting for illegal sealers, and going into port only to replenish our coal. We found the work very disagreeable, both on account oi the reduced temperature and the weather. Eogs, with Scotch mists or drizzly rains, were not conducive to happiness ; and it we were so fortunate as to ha\'e an exceptionally sunshiny day, the fog had a disagreeable way of working in between us and " Old Sol," making it very annoying for those who were responsible tor the navigation ot the vessel. The steam- whistle could not be used, as it would betray our position, so we kept the lead going to ascertain the depth ot water, and kept sharp lookout about us, slowing the engines. On the 15th, we overhauled a schooner which proved to be all right. On the 1 6th, the weather being thick, we sighted a schooner which " took to her heels." Her people crowded on all sail in the etFort to get away from us. E\'ery few minutes the weather cleared a little, then the fog settled dowri thick, so that we were unable to see as far as the length of our own \'essel. We were gaining on the schooner, but slowly, and the chase was becoming exciting. In one of the thick spells, the schooner's course was altered, in the hope that we would keep on our course and run by her, while she would be making "to the good" on the new course, and thus elude us. Our " Skipper" antici- pated the move or " chanced it," and the schooner's people Cruising in Behring Sea 25 were vevy much astonished, when the fog lifted again, to find us ahnost running o\er her. She pro\ed to be eniraoed in the contraband work, and her master was warned to take her out of the sea. Our vessels cruise at a great disad\'antage in these waters. The sealers and whalers are accustomed to keep a sharp lookout, day and night, at their vessels' mastheads for seals, whales, and other game ; and as their profits mainly depend upon it, thev become very expert at the work. While thev are watching for game thev also keep a look- out for the tall masts, smoke-pipes, and the long line of black smoke which betrays our position. At the same time, their shorter masts and smaller hulls are a protection to them; so it is onl\- by chance that we are able to see them through the fog and mist. Later we anchored for about an hour, and gave all hands an opportunity to catch some fish. Some magnificent cod were hauled in, about a yard long, and weighing from thirty to thirty-five pounds apiece, while scores were taken that averaged more than twentv-fi\'e pounds. Some lines had two and three of these struggling beauties when they neared the surface, and assistance was necessary to land them sateh". On the 1 6th, we sighted the island of St. George, on its eastern side, and ran close in to see if any unauthorized vessels were loitering in the neighborhood. This side presents to the sea a bold, rocky blufi^, about three hundred feet high, and almost perpendicular. Millions of birds were flying from its top towards the mainland, and the sickly sunshine was darkened to twilight by their passing between sky and sea. Hundreds of "killer" whales were sporting in the sea, rolling and blowing; but they are not attractive to the hunter, and seem to have been created for the sole purpose of thinning out the smaller fish which abound in these waters. We headed about and stood to the north- 26 An American Cruiser in the East ward, going at a very slow rate of speed, but with every- thing in readiness to "crowd on" in case ot necessity. After a week's cruising in dense fog, chasing schooners, with scarcely a ray of sunshine to gladden our hearts, or to assist us in determining our position, we telt our way in under the lee of St. Paul Island, and anchored on the night of July 2 1. The stillness was broken bv the rolling and dashino- of the surf and the almost human cries of the seals. All night long these nervous, restless creatures kept up a chatter and din that made the night hideous. The next morning, Sunday, we steamed aroimd to the village, where we found the " A'lohican " and the "Thetis," the "Bear" and the " Corwin," H. B. M. S. " Nymphe " and " Pheasant," and the mail steamer " Farallon." After devoting the remaining portion of the forenoon to official calls and the functions incident to the day, and hav- ing partaken of a " sea luncheon," a party of us started in the gig for the shore to see the island, particularly the seal rookeries, and the hauling and killing grounds. As we approached the shore, we found many hidden dangers from rocks close under the surface of the sea, over which our boat bumped and grated, much to the discomfort of all hands ; but by poling here, pushing there, and an occasional pull on the oars, we succeeded in getting the boat safely through the surf, and landed on the rocks at the foot of the village road. After " pulling ourselves together" and making a hasty sur- vey of the surrounding country, we dismissed our boat to the ship, and started for the north beach, or rookeries, from which the sounds that we had enjoyed (?J the night before had proceeded. Leaving the village for future inspection, we started over the hills, which are covered with soft, fibrous turf, from which a rank grass has grown, amid which there is neither path nor road. In a rain that had lasted perhaps since the last winter, we trudged along over the un- certain, slippery ground. So uncertain was the footing that Cruising in Behring Sea 27 at almost e\er\' step great exertion was required to hold the position we had gained, or to make any progress toward our destination ; but this, hke all other things, must ha\ e an end, and after a couple of miles of such tra\el, with much puffing and blowing, and some very poor attempts at pleas- antry, we finally reached the rookeries, and beheld the celebrated amphibious animal in all its glory. The beach, or rookery, which we \isited extends for about a mile and a halt along the seashore, and e;radually slopes up from the sea for about sixty feet to a point where the rocks are covered with soil, whither the seals never go. The beach is formed of hard rock, worn smooth by the rise and fall of the sea, and by the friction of the seals mo\'ing about upon it. Rising from this smooth surface, at inter- vals more or less great, are shelying rocks, or seal's pillows, — natural formations, whichvary in size and shape, some of them being only a tew inches in height and area, while others are seyeral feet high. The male seal measures about six feet in length, and weighs about five hundred pounds. Its head is \'ery small in comparison with the size of its body, and its eyes are bluish, changing to hazel. It has a long yellowish-gray mustache, and sits \'er\' nearly erect. The tcmale seal is about four feet in length, much more shapely than the male, and has a handsome head, e\e, and body, and an expression of much intelligence. The young seals, or "• pups," are awkward, ungainly little animals, of a black color, with large heads and small eyes, and of not much intelligence. They huddle together in groups, and spend the first weeks of life apparently in wondering why they were born, and if life is worth liying. The hunting season is in the months of June and July. There is nothing no\'el or exciting about it, it being rather a piece of cold-blooded butchery. The seals are singled out and dri\en like domestic animals. 2 8 An American Cruiser in the East The Pribyloff Islands (St. Paul and St. George) and the Commander Islands (Behring and Copper), having clean, shelving, rocky beaches, free from mud and sand, are pecu- liarly adapted to the habits and comfort of the seals during the breeding season. Here they live from May to October in perfect peace and security. The business of hunting the seals, curing the skins, and trading with the islands has, for the past twentv-five years, been a monopoly of the Alaska Commercial Company of San Francisco, which has made a point of protecting the seals required for breeding purposes, but has not enjoyed its franchises undisputed. Many vessels have been fitted out each year, both in our own country and in Canada, to prey upon the seals when they leave the rookeries. It is claimed that these poachers have wantonlv frightened and destroyed the seals in great numbers by the use of fire-arms ; and it is also said that the crews of such vessels have raided the rookeries, and have even gone so tar as to raid the salt- houses and carry ofl^ the skins, under cover of darkness and fog. After gathering some specimens of beautiful wild flowers and coarse grasses, we retraced our steps to the village landing, where we found a motley crowd of young natives who were curious to see the strangers. We were soon in our boat again, and after having experiences similar to those on our way -to the shore, we reached the \essel, thor- oughly tired out and wet, but well repaid, we thought, for the trouble it had cost us to see the seals and rookeries. The next morning we sailed from St. Paul, heading to- wards St. George and Unalaska, going very slowly and keeping a bright lookout for our friends, the poachers. We arrived at St. George Island on the mornino- of luly 23, and were soon headed for the rookeries to see our other dear friends, the seals. St. George lies to the southward of St. Paul, and has less than half its area. The approaches Cruising in Behring Sea 29 and the landing are in hetter condition than those at St. Paul. The extent of the rookeries is about one sixth as great as those at the main island. There are about one hundred inhabitants on the island, — Americans, Russians, Aleutes, and halt-breeds, — whose occupations are all con- nected with the seals or the y;o\ ernment of the islands. \Ve were greath- interested in the efforts that a gentle- man was making here to instruct some of the nati\'e boys in the art of working the b(jnes and teeth of the seal into ornaments and other articles ot commercial \'alue. Both this island and St. Paul are strewn with bones and teeth of whales and seals, and the\' appear to be useless. They are, howe\'er, susceptible ot manipulation, and may be gu'en a fine polish. I ha\e seen beautiful articles manufactured from them, such as buttons, card-cases, paper-cutters, etc. Such training and empbnment will be ot great benefit to the nati\-es, as it will broaden their contracted range of winter emplo\-ments. At the landing we saw about twenty young Aleutes and half-breeds lounging about to see the arri\'als. They ranged from twelye to twenty years of age, and were resplendent in store-clothes, most of which were too large for the wearers, and were " baggy " upon them. Each one ot the nati\'es had a hea\y watch-chain across the front of his waistcoat, loud neckgear, pins, and finger-rings, which the\- took a great deal of trouble to di>play. The\' were \'eritable know- nothings, for we could not get an intelligent answer to any of our questions, though we afterwards learned that the under-employes of the Compan\- are not permitted to an- swer the questions of strangers. The seals were chattering to themsel\-es, and the little settlement was before us; S(j we concluded to do our own piloting, and struck out on our ovyn account. 1 he forma- tion and soil of this island is ab(jut the same as at St. Paul, except on the eastern side, where a great elevated plateau. jo An American Cruiser in the East about three hundred feet high and almost perpendicular on the eastern sea-front, graduallv slopes inland, and is lost in what may be called the general lev el of the island on all other sides. The settlement contains a little Russian church, with musical chimes and a beautiful white Virgin and Infant, and a schoolhouse, where the children are taught the catechism, the creed, and the elements ot a secular education. Its fift\' houses are built ot wood, with no attempt at ornamentation, but all had an air ot comfort, and some were elegant in their turnishings. Leaving- the villafre behind us, we started otF tor the beach and rookeries, guided by the well-known chatter of the seals. After a hard tramp we approached the rook- eries, where all before us, as far as the eye could reach, spread a dark-coated, restless, chattering mass, — -like a crouching army, ready to dash upon an enemy's lines. The beaches on all sides, except the east, are similar to those at St. Paul, and are well suited to the habits of the seals. Hundreds ot little groups of these interesting creatures were huddled together. These were the " harems," or families, and near by the "pups" were cared for by the rough old males, or "bulls." Over yonder, thousands of unmated "bachelor" seals were assembled in large parties bemoaning their fate, while thousands more were disport- ing among the breakers in the surf. Among all these thousands of restless, ner\'ous seals, the rio-hts of each seemed to be respected. Occasionally, a dissatisfied female would start off with the intention of deserting her lord, but a few roaring howls, and a savage bite on the neck, would cause her ladyship to return to her allegiance in short order. The "bachelors" spend their time in lamenting their fate, and they are the first victims of the conscientious hunter's blow and knife. The seals begin to leave the Cruising in Behring Sea 31 rookeries about the middle of July, and these are entirely deserted bv the middle oi September, \s'hen the \ oung ha\e learned to take care of themse!\ es. The study ot the mo\ ements and sports of these interest- ing creatures was both instructive and cntertaniintr. From what we ha\e seen, there can be little doubt that the man who originalU reported a mermaid had seen a female seal sportinij; in the sea. Their heads and bodies are shapely (almost human m form), and their arms are handsome to the elbows, from whence the forearms become great black rubber-like flippers ; while from the hips down the body tapers into a double tail, instead of legs. As we took a farewell look at the rookeries, what a din and chatter there was ! There were old seals and young seals, males, females, and " pups," — sporti\'e, meditative, and quarrelsome. The males were guarding their "harems" while the females were lying about in enjoyment of their leisure and ease. Seals are \ery shy, and all about us were e\idently disturbed b\- our presence. Whene\'er any of us approached too near, v\'ithin ten or twelve feet, the males assumed an angry, threatening atti- tude, and they expressed their anxiet\ with trembling form, shaking of heads, flashing eyes, gestures, and loud roars of \oice. We saw the sun, a great ball of dull red, sink into the far-ofF west, and in the twilight we retraced our steps to the landing, and took places in our boat to return to the ship. After the poor forlorn bachelor has become a regular Jeremiah by spending the season in lamentations, he is driven to the hauling grounds with his fellows, knocked in the head, stabbed to the heart, and skinned. The skin is salted, pickled, and cured, after which it is plucked and dyed. Every here and there over the seal's body a coarse white hair grows out from the fur, and these hairs must be 32 An American Cruiser in the East plucked out so carefully that the fur is not injured, other- wise the skin will be depreciated in \alue. A little while ago a countryman of ours invented a machine for remo\ing these hairs. An enthusiastic furrier witnessed some experiments with the machine, and was so well pleased with the rapidity of the work that he invested in hundreds of unplucked skins and set the in- ventor to work. When the work was finished it was dis- coN'ered that a small tuft of fur had been plucked out with each hair, and the skins had all been ruined. The pluck- ing is all done bv hand now. After the plucking, the skins are d\cd ; for it must be remembered that until the dyer has satisfactorily performed his operations upon it, the seal's skin is of a dark sil\"er-gra\-, or mouse-color, — not the beautiftd brown with which we are familiar. After lea\-ing St. George Island, we cruised about, inside of the Aleutian Islands, as far west as Pass No. 72. The scenery was beautiful bevond description. Nearly every high hill was covered with snow, and below the snow-line were great frowning rocks, palisades, and \alleys, while here and there mad, tumbling, rushing torrents flowed from the gorged streams of melted snow. Yonder, a handsome greensward, a lawn of nature's own making, containing whole acres as smooth as our decks. A fine buck with ten-foot antlers was grazing near the beach, but was gone before a rifle could be reached. just the faintest stain of smoke, within the beautiful blue \'ault of heax'en, indicated a volcano, that some night may be in full eruption, and send forth fire, ashes, and smoke in great \-olumc, while changing the physical geography of the neighborhood. After heading to the northward for a day, we saw a sail and made chase. On o\'erhauling "the find," it pro\'cd to be a whaler whose master told a gloomy stor\' of losino- a boat's crew of fixe men, while trying to secure a whale. The men had stuck their harpoons into the whale, which, Cruising in Behring Sea ^3 as usual, started oft, pulling the boat with it. Suddenly di\'ing, the whale dragged the boat, with all hands, under, the men being drowned and the boat lost. Besides this, he had a small mutiny to subdue. Some ot his men were sick, and the others thought the ok! \ esscl was too short- handed to continue on the hunt, so wished to go into port for additional help. They refused to work, but the old skipper meted out the punishments ot low diet and double dutv. This, ti_)gether with the presence ot se\eral men-of-war in the sea, caused the men to change their minds and go to work. The burh old skipper hummed psalm-tunes as he stowed his papers away, and cast a long, threatening look towards his forecastle. Our surgeon went on board and did what was necessary for the comfort of the sick. Three da\s afterwards, while a tine breeze was blowing, we sia^hted a sail and o;ave chase. After running nearly all day, and burnino; more coal than would suppK' se\eral houses for a winter, we came up with the sail, which pixned to be our old friend, the whaler. Well ! we were not gi\ing anything awa\", so we spoke him, returned his "dip," and kept right on the course as though we were going somewhere in a hurry. We could not afford to let that crowd have the laugh on us. On the next day, we sighted a schooner, which kept just beyond our rancre while her people were " doing " all the seamanship they knew, evidently with the hope of getting away, whether as a joke or for more substantial reasons, we could onl\' conjecture. It was one of those intermitting, sunshiny, and foggy days so common in those latitudes. After having been led in the chase until it began to look as if the schooner would escape us, a charge of powder and shell were put into the sixt\'-pounder, and in a moment of sunshine it was "let go." It was a fair line shot; and in less time than I can write it, our friend was almost drowned 3 a 34 An American Cruiser in the East in a shower of water. The rapidity with which he let all his "sails fly" was a sight that would have delighted a yachtsman. Our vessel was soon alongside of the schooner, — a poacher, of course, — whose master was ordered to take her out of the sea. After more of such cruising and the enjoyment of the fine scenery about the islands, we worlced our way into the harbor of Iliuliuk, and made preparations for the trip to Japan, via Kamtchatka. Unalasica to Kamtchatka, Siberia Early on the morning of September lO, we said good- bye to Unalaska, and started for Petropaulski, Kamtchatka. We ran along in full sight of the Aleutian Islands, once more enjoying the grandeur and beauty ot the magnificent scenery. Late in the afternoon, we reached the latest addition to United States soil, the changeable island of Boga- slov. Bogaslov is very much like a child's " Johnny-jump- up," only Bogaslov jumps up out of the sea and then sinks into it again, to rise again in a new place. Now we see it as a great volcano sending forth dense clouds of steam and vapor, not only from its crater, but from crater and fissures in its sides, giving it the appearance of a whole mountain on fire. This steam and vapor are formed by water of the sea running into the fissures of the island where it comes in contact with internal heat and is sent forth seething and boiling. The old volcano Bogaslov, known to the Russians for more than a hundred years, is near by. In 1882, it burst forth, after having remained quiet for more than half a cen- tury, and a new volcano was thrown up from the sea and added to our possessions. This great mass of matter issued from a submarine volcano. The particles, it is believed, worked up and around the outside of the crater Cruising in Behring Sea 35 until thev reached the sea-le\el, where they formed the toundation ot our new Bogaslox . So tar as known, no human beuig witnessed the birth of this island, for it was never reported. Ships sailed b\' the spot without observing it, and, later, ships sailed b\-, and it was there. It was first seen \n 1 883, beingthen in about the condition we saw it, with the addition of a strip of land and a series of immense rocks, known as " sad-rocks," — from then' resemblance to a full- rigged ship, — which connected the old and the new Boga- slo\'. These connections have sunk into the sea, and ves- sels ot large draught ot water can sail o\er the place where the\' once were. Extremes meet in this Behrins^ Sea ! The internal fires in both old and new Bogaslov ne\'er cease, and vonder are great mountains from whose peaks the snow ne\ er melts. Our path la\" across the l8oth meridian, and crossing this meridian tor the tirst time is air e\ cut in a Pacific cruise almost equal to crossing the equator. The green- horns are made to pay their footing and are warned to look out for the line ; to watch and see that the ship is not tripped up b\- it, and there is always a jolly time. This meridian marks the di\'ision of time between the eastern and western hemispheres, and is exactly opposite Greenwich. In going westward, when we cross the i8oth meridian, we drop a day from the calendar ; for instance, one retires on Priday nieht and awakens on Sunday morning. There is a tradition, in our service, ot an old salt who would not drop the da\', and when his xessel fell in with the fleet he was still running his own time. As the days rolled on, he held his Sunday service on Saturday, so when the fleet was having Sunday routine, our friend started off with "general quarters," and there was a great deal of noise and racket on board of his vessel. The senior officer signalled him to change his time and go on with the Sunday routine; so our friend dropped the day, and 36 An American Cruiser in the East ever afterwards insisted that he had kept two consecutive Sundays. The weather continued fine until the morning of the 1 2th, when our head wind and sea had increased to such strength that we could not steam against them. The ves- sel was " hove to " under steam and sail until the evening of the 14th, when the weather moderated, and we were enabled to increase our speed. The next day and night were beautiful, but it was so cold there was no pleasure in being on deck. On the night of the 17th, we picked up a gale that blew right in our teeth for two days and a half, and the ship was worked in under the lee of Behring and Copper islands, where we remained until the 20th. There we experienced some of the effects of the kurisowo, or Japanese warm current, which sweeps up the coast of Asia, and is divided somewhere to the southward of Attau. One portion flows up into Behring Sea; the other, being diverted by the Aleutian Islands, extends along the northern Pacific, moderates the temperature, and renders the islands habitable, but increases the dangers ot navigation by the fogs and currents it produces. As the gale subsided, we worked the vessel closer in to Behring Island, and we saw the place where Behring's little vessel was wrecked, and further on the spot where he is buried. The memories that cling about this island are sad. Near this spot, shipwrecked and broken in health, the intrepid Behring was stricken with scurvy. In the hope of checking its ravages, he was buried in the sand, but in a few days he died of the disease. A cruel fate ! a horrible death 1 After taking a look at Cooper Island, we headed for the entrance to Petropaulski, Kamtchatka. We sighted the coast at about two on the morning of the 22d and pushed on into the outer harbor of Petropaulski. As we ran down Cruising in Behring Sea 37 the coast, the lightning flashed, the thunder roared, and it rained in torrents ; but as the land is bold and the coast well charted, we kept on our course and anchored in the bay. The bay of Avatcha measures about ten miles across in e\ erv dnection, and is surrounded b\' mountains from seven to ten thousand feet hio;h, whose sides are coxered with dense forests of birch, which extend almost to their peaks ; whde in the distant background are mountains holding their heads se\enteen thousand feet high, and perpetually co\ered with snow. It had been snowing here for two weeks, and it was a glorious sight to see the sunshine. Along the outlines of some of the mountains, the sun's rays pla\ ing upon the snow-banks ga\'e all the prismatic colors of the rainbow. At this season of the \ ear, the weather changes very' rapidly. One night the elements will be warring and the rain coming down as though the very flood-gates had burst, while the next night will be calm, bright, and beautiful, and all the world seemingly at peace, until we discover by the howling, the \ells, and the harking that we are anchored near kennels of native dogs. These creatures make the most horrible noises that can be heard outside of Cairo in Egvpt. The noises made bv the seals at St. Paul Island were painful, because human-like, but they were music in comparison with these dogs. CHAPTER IV PETROPAULSKI, KAMTCHATKA. EASTERN SIBERIA THE Russian settlement of Petropaulski stands at the head of the harbor of Ax'atcha, Kamtchatka, in an amphitheatre, on the slope of two hills, which form a \alley that is covered with reeds and g-rasses. The settlement is composed of about two hundred small log-houses, surrounded by handsome little courts and gardens, which are neatly fenced with palings and interwoven twigs. Peter the Great took a great interest in the place, and more than two hundred years ago it was a flourishing port, but now it contains less than one thousand inhabitants. Behring was able to build his ships here, and trom this place he started on the \oyages of discovery that immortalized his name and added so much territory to the Russian Empire. Petropaulski has long been abandoned by the Russians as a military station. It is an interesting, dilapidated old place, whose history has been honorable, and it is likely again to plav an impor- tant part in the affairs of the world. At the lower part of the settlement, in the \alley, stands the old church, remarkable for its fantastic architecture. It is fast tailing into ruins, and is not now used. A high railing has been built around the grounds for protection, and the church is looked upon as an almost sacred thing, as it stands, a monument to the marriages, the baptisms, the funerals, and all the solemn and grand religious out- bursts of this hardy people. Before Behring and his fol- lowers were blessed there, bishops, priests and people had sung masses and chanted the Miserere within its little white Eastern Siberia ? f 9 walls. A new church has been erected on the hill, adjoin- ing the go\-ernor's palace. On one side of the church, a monument has been erected to Behruig; on the other side is a monument to Clerke, the successor ot the famous Captain Cook. There is also a monument to the na\'igatc)r La Perouse. On a point ot land which separates the inner tiom the outer harbor, there is a handsome granite monument which commemorates the victory gained b\- the Russians over a combined British and French na\ al force in 1854. During the Crimean war, the ]]ritish and Prench attacked the place in force, ha\ ing si\ \ easels and three thousand men. The Russians had se\eral land batteries, and a frigate in the harbor. After having been twice repulsed, the com- manders ot the allied forces determined to make an assault. A lar2;e force of sailors and marines was landed, and an attempt was made to take the place m the lear. The Russian sharpshooters picked off the assailants with deadly aim. Later a rush was made bv the Russians, and in the panic the enem\- \vas driven o\er the steep, sloping clift, two hundred feet high, into the plain below. It is said that more than two thousand of the enemy were slain, and fi\-e hundred Russians. The Briti>h admiral committed suicide early in the attack. In two immense trenches, side by side, sleep the Russians and the enemy who fell that day, and a handsome chapel has been erected on the plain. The houses of Petropaulski are built of heaw logs, one piled upon the other, the ends being hah ed out to receive the ends of the cross logs. The joints are calked like the seams of a wocxlen ship, and the interiors are lined with boards and painted or covered with paper. No attempt is made to ornament the exteriors. A few of the houses are elegant, many are comfortable, but the great majority are in keeping with the people, who are miserably poor and shiftless. Religious pictures and engravings are seen upon 40 An American Cruiser in the East the walls, and a shrine, containing a lepiesentation of the patron saint, is placed in the principal room of every house, and in the shops. When entering a shop it is customary to remove the hat in honor oi the saint. The men of the lower class are great drunkards, their favorite be\'erage being " swadka," a raw brandy tull of fire, which thev do not hesitate to pour down their " copper- hned " throats by the tumblerful. The evenings, which usually close with a supper, are generally spent in card-play- ing, drinking, smoking, and tea-drinking. The tea used by these people is of a superior quality, and is made in a verv careful way. The " samovar," or tea-urn, is seen in every Russian house, and is found from Behring Sea to the Baltic. It is a portable furnace, — a brass urn through which passes from bottom to top a cylinder, a couple ot inches in diameter. The cylinder is filled with ignited charcoal, and the water is heated by it, remaining hot as long as the fire continues. A porcelain or earthenware tea-pot is warmed with hot water before the drv lea\'es are placed m it, then boilino; water is poured upon the lea\es, and when the pot is about full it is placed on top ot the samo\ar. It is kept hot, but does not bt)il, and after se\eral minutes the tea is readv. The Russians drink their tea from tumblers. It is sweetened with loaf sugar, and a thin slice of lemon iloating upon its surface gives flavor to the delicious be\'eraije. Just before dinner, a luncheon is served on a side table, in the dining-room, and consists of cordial, wines, bitters with herring, ca\ iar, dried meats, and fish. The dinner follows in a iew minutes, and is served in this order: fish, soup, roast beef and vegetables, chops and cake, cream and jellies, the whole interspersed with wines and spirits. The fish is alwa\ s ser\'ed before the soup. The houses are heated bv large brick stoves, which are from four to six feet high, and so arrano;ed as to extend Eastern Siberia 41 into the corners of two or three rooms. The furnaces are rema'kably small. The women ha\ e attracti\'e features, but their dress is old-fashioned and plain. The children are a merrv, noisy, bright-looking lot of \oungsters, full of fun and frolic, except when the go\ ernor appears; then the fun ceases, and thev act as it a " boogv man " were about. They haye schools, where they are instructed m the Russian language, writing, and arithmetic. The\' are not encouraged to learn enough to make them dissatisfied with their lot in life. There are se\'eral t^ood shops where almost anything can be purchased, from sugar to a full dress-suit. The fashion of the latter may be a little ancient, but the goods will be all right. The o-o\ernor of Ivamtchatka is a colonel in the Rus- o sian army, and he is assisted in the administration by a captain and fifty Cossacks. They wear a butternut-brown uniform, long gra\- o\ ercoats, and fiat-top brown caps, being armed with rifles of superior make. These troops are stationed about the settlement, and little wooden shanties protect them from the rain and snow. The people hold the gox-ernor in great awe. Whereyer he goes, hats are remo\-ed and hands fall to the seams of the trousers, until his pleasure is known, or he leayes the place. Coal is brought from the Shaghalen Islands, and is expensi\'e. There is plent\' of wood, the hills being cov- ered with forests of ) otmg birch, which is used for all con- structions as vyell as, in part, for fuel. The forests are cared for by the go\-ernment, and only such trees as it permits can be cut. Timber is cut by hand or imported from California, as there are no saw-mills in the country. The melted snow flows down the mountain's side, and is diverted into ditches which have been made on one side of every street. From these little artificial brooks the people get their supply of water for household purposes. 42 An x'^merican Cruiser in the East Years ago the cultivation of wheat, rye, and barley was introduced with considerable success, but for some reason their culture has not been continued. The people depend upon the go\'ernment supplies of rye-flour, which is brought here and sold at cost price. Potatoes, turnips, cabbages, and lettuce arc grown in the little gardens, but neither the cabbages nor lettuce will head. The hills are covered with beautiful wild flowers and tall rank grass. Some few of the hardy flowers are raised indoors and under glass, but thev do not succeed in the open air. A large supply of cattle is kept on hand, and the beexes are killed to order. There are some delightful walks and climbs about Petro- paul>ki. A little "clearing" on the point between the harbors is delightfully situated h)r magnificent views of the snow-clad mountains, the hills, the bays, and the plains beyond. In the autumn, the da\s and nights are fine, clear, cold, and bracing; the lea\es ha\ e taken on their yellows, browns, and reds, and are about to die. The weather is fine until the middle oi October ; after that it is cold and wet, and the snow falls, which does not disappear until jLine. Durino; the winter, violent storms occur, the cold is intense, snow falls in such quantities as to lie e\ en with the house-tops, and the people cannot o;et about. In their imprisonment, with storehouses full, they sleep and idle the time awa\- until the thaw. The road- stead outside is rarely frozen o\cr. The summers are short and hot. \'eLi;etation is of re- markably rapid growth ; as soon as the snow disappears, the trees send forth their buds and blossoms, and the hills and valle)'s take on their beautiful verdure. In the same week the snow and ice may melt, and the trees begin to bloom. The temperature ranges from si.xty to seventy-five degrees, Fah. " ^ . . Pish form the basis of the nati\x's food, and the salmon Eastern Siberia 40 is bis choice. The fishing season lasts for nearly two months, when the salmon ascend the streams. They are taken in seines, and immense numbers arc caught each year. Salmon intended for the winter's supply are split and dried in the sun. The odor from one of these drying establishments is abominable and sickenino;. The nati\ es in the interior catcii the salmon in nets and with spears, while the dogs, woKes, and bears catch them with their mouths. Kamtchatka dogs are famous, and those of Petropaulski are second to none for the noises they can make. There are about two thousand of them owned in the town. They can bark, but the\- seem to prefer to howd. They begin about sunset, and keep up the most dismal howling until morning, making sleep and rest almost impcjssible, and life miserable. Kamtchatka has no industrial interests except its trade in skins and turs, and that is yery limited. Trade is con- ducted on the barter plan, and the poor jiati\-e finds his turs are cheap and the store goods arc high priced. Sable is the principal fur trapped by the nati\-es, and all their ingenuit\' is expended in its capture. The poll tax ot the nati\es is paid in sable skins at the rate of one skin tor c\er\- tour pei'sons, and the ^o\'ernor makes an annual \isit to all the \ illages, to ccdlect the tax. Foxes, sea-otter, sih'er toxes, and bears are also caught in small numbers, and traded to the merchants. Bears are plentiful, but their skins are not desired for export. Bear- huntino; is one ot the sports ot the communitw There are about one thousand inhabitants in the settle- ment, consisting of Russians, Cossacks, Kamtchadales, and half-breeds. The port is tVee, so far as import and export duties are concerned. The local gcnernmcnt is supported by the fines and dues of \'arious kinds. Exiles ha\ e not been sent to Kamtchatka since 1830. CHAPTER V KAMTCHATKA, EASTERN SIBERIA THE Russians say : " Even the distant shores of the cold and fog-covered Sea of Okhotsk are not, how- ever, quite the ultima Thule of that dreariest of regions, Siberia ; Kamtchatka lies beyond." The peninsula of Kamtchatka extends out from the northeastern extremity of Asia, and lies between the Sea of Okhotsk and the Pacific Ocean. It is about eight hundred miles long and two hundred and fifty miles at its broadest part. The entire peninsula is a vast range of volcanic mountains, many of which are in a state of acti\ itv, and earthquakes are of frequent occurrence. Two of these volcanoes have thrown ashes and stones for more than a hundred miles, and Avatcha, just behind Petropaulski, has sent out showers of stones and water. Kamtchatka is in- cluded in the province of Eastern Siberia, and Petropaulski is its capital. The Kamtchatka is the only navigable river, and empties into the ocean on the eastern side of the peninsula. There are many smaller streams, which contain great quantities of fish and water-fowl. Whales, walruses, seals, cod, and herring abound in the seas, and many salmon are found in the rivers. Game is plentiful near the coast, and on the streams ducks, teal, divers, quail, and woodcock are abun- dant ; while tracks of larger game are found all over the country. Avatcha Bay is a very extensive basin, nearly circular in shape, and is about ten miles across. It is formed at the Kamtchatka, Eastern Siberia 45 foot of a larger outer hay of the same name, near the southeastern end of the pcninsuki, and would afford secure shelter for all the fleets of the world. The harbor of Petropaulski, on the eastern side of Avatcha inner bay, is small, deep, and well sheltered, and is a \cry con\-enicnt place in which \essels may refit, although there is no dock. Three aboriginal tribes still inhabit the peninsula. The Kouricks and Ohlutors di\ide the north, while the Kamtcha- dales roam o\-er the south. Thev arc a dirty, repulsive set, of short stature and hlth\- habits, and thev subsist by means of fishing and hunting. They ha\-e no settled home, but wander from place to place, leading their most precious treasure, the " mean yellow dogs." The whole population ot Kamtchatka is less than fi\'e thousand. The dog is a nati\-e of the countr\-, and is as ugl\- as his master. He has many of the instincts of the mastiff and the wolf, both of which he resembles, ha\ing the bod\' of the former and the head of the latter. He is of a dirty yellow or sihxr color, his senses arc keener in the night than in the da\dight, and his bark and h(jwl are peculiar. He is alert and ner\'ous, but obedient under the lash. He has no feelings of attachment, and he should alwa\s be driven b\' the hand and the \'oice that have trained him. It is \cr\- necessary to keep him in good temper with his neighbors, and it is not sate to let him loose at any time. The half of a dried salmon is his day's ration when idle; and this is materially reduced when he is at work, as it is belie\'ed that he will work better when on the \'erge of star\'ation. The young dogs are considered the most dangerous. Kamtchatka being situated between the ocean and the sea, and influenced by the Japanese warm current, it has a somewhat milder climate than is f)und in the same latitudes on the Asiatic ccjiitinent, but it is a cheerless, dreary place. 46 An American Cruiser in the East At Sea. — On Passage to Japan The midnight of the 25th ushered in a beautiful day, and in the earl\- inorning wc left our anchorage and shaped our course for Japan. On the way through the waters of Avatcha we took a farewell look at the land. Just north of the settlement, Mount Korianski stands 1,100 feet high in its mantle of newly fallen, glistening snow, resplendent in the glorious sunshine, while all about it lesser mountains and hills crowd upon the vision ; and behind all, great black clouds work down from the northward. Further on down the bay, the whole coast is one mass of jagged moun- tains, hills, and deep ravines. Wiluckneski, 7,250 feet high, and Flat Mount, both snow-clad, sparkle like great masses of diamonds amid the forest of black hills. After leaving Avatcha Bav, we had our usual rain and mists, with head winds and seas. The winds and seas in- creased until Thursday morning, when we found oursehes in a lively gale. From about five o'clock we had a suc- cession of rain squalls, for two hours after which the old ship wallowed in a very heavy, confused sea with no wind. The stifling, oppressive influence that always accompanies the t\'phoon was present. The barometer registered about 28, and the \'essel rolled from side to side with a deep lurch that was slow of reco\ery ; but in her own good time she changed the motion, came up, and started off on the other roll. The hatches were battened down, and spars and masts were sent from aloft and secured. At every dip, green seas rolled over the rail, and for a time it seemed as if the ship must swamp. The bulkheads set up a melancholy squeaking that added to the unpleasantness. To keep the vessel under control, the engines were turning ahead slowly, the men at the wheel met the seas and tried to hold her up to them. Thick oil was dripped from a canvas bat; at her Kamtchatka, Eastern Siberia 47 bow, while the boiling seas chased each other over her sides from e\erv direction. Later in the da\-, the seas took on more form, and as a great roller was approached, the engines were speeded to their utmost. The sea, like an ani;r\- chdd, was making ha\'oc with our luggage below, article after article, singh', in pairs, and in crowds, benig dashed from their places into the hlth\' water that was swashino; (n'er the floors of our rooms. Bibles were chased around by boots and shoes, nautical and musical instruments followed ; packs of cards, hooks, and articles of clothing were tossed about like wreck- age upon a beach when the tide is low. At sundown, a taint breeze was disco\ered, which in- creased during the night. As it freshened, sail was set, the vessel's speed was increased, and b\ daylight we had a fine breeze, and were bounding along, under steam and sail, with nothing to mar our happiness except the recollection of the wreckage in our little rooms. On the morning of the 4th, we sighted the Japanese coast, and ran along near the islands. In the afternoon, we passed close enough to see a large native city with its thousands of houses and huts, some of its temples, and much of its bustle and life, while off its harbor more than three hundred junks were riding at anchor or engaged in fishing. As we worked to the southward, we picked up fair weather, and enjoyed smooth seas and pleasant skies. Old Neptune became so extremely polite and so careful of us that our late unpleasant shaking up was almost forgotten. The life lines and extra lashings were removed, exercises and drills were resumed, the lately sea-sick crawled out from their little rooms, and the vessel once mt)re became tidv and trim. The great sodden cloud-shapes in the mysterious, ever-changing vault were replaced by glorious skies. Our sun sank behind that great purple-black streak, 48 An American Cruiser in the East the Empire of [apan, and the fantastic shapes and colors presented to our \ iew would make an artist famous it he could but reproduce their beautiful effects upon his canvas. Our half-ill ser\ ants were soon on deck, to take a look at the outlines of the country which was their home, and while thev did not indulge in the old songs of " Home, Sweet Home," or " Home Again," we could easily see that they felt all the sentiments of those songs, and more. Their mobile, jaundice-like faces lighted up with almost The I'uint of Tomioka, Jafax. sickly smiles as they bowed low towards their country, and to each other, and congratulated themselyes upon their good fortune, or j(jined in animated conversation about their past disappointments and their new-found hopes. We soon rounded Nasima light, on Cape King, and stood up Yediio Bay towards Yokohama. From the dreary waters of old ocean, with their gloomy background, to the westward, we now turned towards a beautiful pano- rama. Terraced hills, of beautiful green, crowned and combed with bamboo, lined the broad bay on each side. Kamtchatka, Eastern Siberia 49 Here and there were towns, \HIages, anJ hamlets of nati\e houses, and huts surrounded b\' neat httle farms, gardens, or groxes. Scarlet or unpamted wooden torii marked the temple path, which ends in a grove of tine old trees. The great towering chimney of modern bricks sent its curlmg black smoke like clouds o\er the little hamlet, while the hum of machines announced the fabrication of beautiful silks and satins. Great steamers ploughed through the waters, and little ones rushed up or down'like mad, Is .-\ (apan'ese Torii and I.anteiins, thev sent a deafening whoop from their tiny steam-whistles. Unpainted junks, with bright-bronze fastenings, and square white sails streaked half-wa\' down with black, stood across the swift running waters ; and all about little fishing-boats, with picturesque people manairintr sails or oars, caused us to slow, to port, to starboard our helm, or speed the ship to avoid collision. As we approached the cit\', the scene became still more animated. The houses were more pre- tentious and closer together. The hum and dm of ma- 4 50 An American Cruiser in the East chinery was heard, and the great red ribs ot a leviathan steamer w,ie seen upon the ways as we passed near the shipyards. The people in the little native boats were noisy and boisterous. Steamers were swinging at buoys, in the outer reach, while taking cargoes of coal, or silk, or tea from great lighters, and the breech-clothed coolies sang merrily as they passed up bags, or bales, or boxes. These coolies were stalwart, handsome fellows, with splen- did muscles standing out as they bent and pulled and lifted the heavy weights. Along the beach, crowds of men, women, and children were bathing in the surf, while some of the more venturesome were swimming in our wake, and others beyond it were heading for the opposite shore. ^'$ Fujiyama. CHAPTER VI YOKOHAMA, JAPAN IN the afternoon we moored the \'essel inside of the breakwater at Yokohama, and before the first anchor was on the bottom, we were besieged by a long line ot " sampans," or nati\e boats, made of pine boards, propelled hv two long stern oars, worked by the little brown boatmen. These boats contained representatixxs of nearly all the business houses in the town, and their occupants ranged from washermen to the business managers of great com- mercial houses. Americans, Britons, Germans, Japanese, Parsees, Chinese, and natives of India and Africa helped to swell the cosmopolitan mob, for mob it was, until our master-at-arms took charge of the ship's gangway, and 52 An American Cruiser in the East arranged for the people to come on board in an orderly manner. Some of these people were old acquaintances. Many, soliciting trade, presented their cards and recom- mendations, whilst others brought samples and specimens of their wares. In most cases, the wares were beautiful, the offers tempting, and the merchants and their assistants courteous and graceful. Loath to leave this bazaar-like scene upon our decks, we turn from these interesting merchants to look over and Tin" 101 SiEi'S AT THE Bliji-k, Yokohama, Japan, with the Celebrated Zenaba Tea-Hou.se on the Left. beyond the rail, to see the bay well filled with merchant steamers, sailing-vessels, native craft, our old " Monocacy," and several Japanese war-vessels, whose gay ensigns flutter in the breezes. On low, undulating ground, between two ranges of low hills, lies the town, studded with neat little Japanese houses and gay shops. The hills, called " the Bluffs," are about one hundred and fifty feet high, semi-circular in trend, and stretch inland for a mile or more. Far away, and over Yokohama, Japan ^^ the town, snow-mantled Fujiyama looms up 15,000 feet towards the heavens, while a great white cloud cuts its beautiful cone between snow-line and base. P\ijiyama, as Fujisan, has been almost deified. It is the object of many pilgrimages, and has alwa)s held the first place in the afi-ections of the Japanese people. It is the first thing looked tor and greeted in the morning ; and when the gloaming is darkening into night, and Fujisan is disappearing from view, millions of people bid it good- night. The harbor is naturally exposed to strong winds and seas, and a semi-circular breakwater, twehe thousand feet long, is in process of construction for its protection. This breakwater extends from the entrance to the canal, under the bluffs, to the northern extremity of the settlement, and has an opening six hundred and fifty feet wide at its middle part, through which we entered the harbor. There are fixed red and green lights on the sides of the entrance, and buoys of corresponding colors are placed well inside and outside of the works as ranges for the navigator, and as marks of the channel. This breakwater is a great under- taking, and a magnificent piece of engineering. Its massive granite walls would reflect credit upon the working-men of any country. A great iron pier, two thousand feet long, at which \essels may discharge and take in cargo, is being built out into the bay, at the northern end of the town. Yokohama is situated on the western side of Yeddo Bay, and is about eighteen miles from the capital, with which it is connected by a fine double-track railway, or by water, for vessels of very light draught. The foreign residences are situated in handsome gardens on "the Bluffs," — a special concession made to foreigners when the present town of Yokohama was an insignificant fishing-village. "The BlufFs " are reached by a system of winding roads, or by 56 An American Cruiser in the East one hundred and one granite steps. The \iews from the top of these hills are fine, and the location is the healthiest in this section of ct)untr\-. The tea-house at the top of the steps is one ot the most celebrated in Japan. There is a fine Public Garden at " the likifts," and the race-course, which has a good track and is well enclosed, is situated about a mile beyond. The semi-annual meets are well patronized, and attract crowds ot people from the open ports. Chinese and Japanese ponies aie usually run, and The liRAN'i) Hotel, Y(iK<"iiiAMAj Jaj'AN. the bini spoi't is thoroughl\- enjoNcd. A public hall, com- g theatre and asseniblv-room, is also located on "the Bluff's." '1 he ])und is a fine hard loadway, extending along the entire watei -fiont of Yokohama, and upon this many of the principal houses and hotels front. There are churches, mission-houses, and schools of many Christian denomina- tions in the settlement, and near the centre is a very di lapidated recjeation-ground. The public water-supply is excellent in eiuality and quantity. The hotels of Yoko- Yokohama, Japan 59 hama afford excellent accommodations. The Grand Hotel, for example, situated at the southern end of the settlement, and facing Bund and bay, is one of the finest in the East. It has all the modern con\'enicnces and appliances, and, under the management of "• Fussy little l^ouis," who haunts the markets for delicacies, its menu is second to none in the world. Seyeral daily and weekly newspapers, in the English language, are published here, and the latest news from all parts of the world is obtained. Ji.NRiKJSHA IN Japan. At Yokohama, the \-isitor from the United States has the first crjimpse of beautiful Japan, and (jf its vyonderful people. Whether you land at the canal or at the " Hataha," you are met by a cro\yd of jolly, laughing jinrikisha men, each offerina; his yehiclc, and soliciting your patronage. It you except the customs officials, the jiiuikisha men are about the first acquaintances one makes in Japan. Each ot these worthies is clad in a close-fitting white-knit shirt, dark-blue, s 60 An American Cruiser in the East skin-tight pantaloons, or his bare, brown legs display the splendid muscles that rival those of an athlete. The sun's rays are warded off bv a large flat helmet, and he is shod with sandals of plaited straw. If he is at all " dudish," he wears a close-fitting, dark-blue coat, having scarlet edges and a great white monogram, or character, emblazoned upon the middle of the back. These poor fellows are in- telligent, faithful, and honest. As soon as you engage one you can trust him, and your property is perfectly safe in his care. The fare for these jinrikishas is ridiculously low, fifteen cents paying for an hour's ride, ten cents for any short distance, and seventy-five cents for a whole day's service. Two men should always be employed with a jinrikisha, one to pull and one to push. The overheating and sudden cooling, incident to the work, is very injurious to health, and produces throat and lung troubles, which are frequently followed by consumption and death. An excellent author- ity places the duration of life of a " rickshaw " man at less than fi\'e years. After my attention had been called to these facts, I never permitted myself to be pulled about by one man. The government buildings in Yokohama, — built of stone in the foreign style of architecture, — and the Consulates, are grouped near the centre of the native settlement. The Consulates are surrounded by handsome, well-kept grounds, situated on wide streets. The town has grown ^ so rapidly 1 Yokohama has grown rapidly since 1859, when it was thrown open to foreign trade. It is the port of entry for Tolvio, a consider- able coast, and the surrounding country. The population is about one hundred and fifty thousand. The number of foreign residents is about six thousand, of whom four thousand are Chinese. The imports con- sist chiefly of cotton and woollen goods. The value of the imports is ^3°>679.5oS. The total value of the exports is ^(50, 450, 489. Silk is the most valuable of the exports, being valued at 140,570,286. Yokohama, japan 63 that the natixe houses, as a rule, are not equal to those in other towns. The roatls are unmenelcd, and in the rainy season ahnost impassable. On the Bund, (jne j.ees all sorts and conditions ot nati\es. The man yonder, m the !^ra\- suit, like our letter-carriers, is in the Imperial Customs ser\ ice ; the little tellow in blue-cloth sack suit, with the threat goggles on his nose, and sword bv his side, is a policeman, and the little box on the corner is the place in which he takes his rest and finds shel- A lAPA.NTSn Sampax. ter from sun and ram. The man who is coming down the middle of the road, at a dog-trot, is a mail runner; the tiny parcel, suspended from the bamboo rod over his shoulder, is the mail. These men, by relays, go all oyer the Empire, con\-eyino; packages o\'er mountains and through \'allc\s to the most remote places, and they are said to make remark- ably quick time. We meet representati\'es of e\ery nationality in cosmo- politan Yokohama; the sight-seeing American, who landed 64 All American Cruiser in the East from the last steamer hom 'Frisco, or who is loitering to see more of the counti'\' ; the Englishman, who is making the " graiul tour;" the Frenchman, who is interested in beantiful curiosities ; the German, in quest ot I'aw silk and mattinL:;s ; the Russian, whose interest centres in furs; the Parsee, in search of desirable stocks; the Aleute, stranded from a Japanese sealing-schooner ; the Indian, who m\"steriousl\' brings from the folds ot his garments the most wonderful necklaces, brooches, rings, and unmounted stones of daz/,linix brilli.inc\', all sworn to be " first water " and " perfect," but at prices so astonishmglv low as to excite suspicions of their genuineness ; the Chinaman, bent on legitmiate tiade, wdio keeps a furnishing or a grocery shop, and adds to his gains b\' the sale of Manila lottery tickets ; and the nati\c of South Afidca, who offers a few Cape C(donv "diamonds" of exceptional brilliancy, which he has " smuggled " mto the country from Africa, or perhaps imported from Bn'minghani. \Ve pass on, bc\"ond the Go\ernment buildings and Con- sulates, make a couple of tiu'ns in the road, and enter the Benton Dori, a road which extends «'cst\^'ard, and contains many nati\e shops. It is a veritable " lapanese old curi- osity bazaar " on an extensixe scale ; old armor, swords, bows and arrows, pikes, spears, battle-axes, and all the war-gear for man and horse. Their fashion and workmanship are beautiful. AIan\- of them are marked and inlaid with gold and siK-er, while man\' others are mounted with rich bronze, which was considered more precious than gold or silver. I hcse arms, which cost hundreds, and in some cases thou- sands, of ilollars to manufacture, can now be obtained for a few dollars apiece. 'rhc\" are graphic relics of Japan, her noble families, her arms, and her military glorv, from the earlv ages of her history to the present time, and thcv should not be scattered all o\'er the world, but should be gathered together and deposited in a great museum at Vokohanid, Japj in 65 Tokio, where they could remain on exhibition for all time. 1 he Benton Dori is not all inaLle up of arms and armor. Brocades, silks, porcelains, masks, and portraits, and beauti- ful embroideries, old bronzes, i\or\', and wood car\iiio;s, — much of it mar\'ellousl\' fine, — is to be seen in almost every shop. The \ery fronts ha\e been remo\'ed from the little shops, and the whole interiors are exposed to \ iew. How artistic is the arrantremeiit of the beautiful and odd jAi'ANEMi GKhH.N-GROCIiK's SHiiP. wares ! What temptation there is to empt\' one's pockets, and sav, " Gi\e me an\'thing ; all is so charming;! " Thus it is, shop after shop, on both sides of the road, for the mile or more of its length, crowds of bright little men, women, and children thronging its thor(jughfare, and peals of merrv laughter ringing out in unison with the somids of the clogs upon its walk. One is always dissatisfied in this great bazaar, where the more that is seen, the greater is the desire to see more and to examine closer. Hours are instruc- 66 An American Cruiser in the East ti\'ely and entcrtainiu^lv spent in roaming from shop to shop, inspecting the beautiful waies, while chatting about their manufacture and history witli the bright little shop- keepers or manufacturers. A jAiANisr-- AcroK. Retracing our steps to the end of the road, where we entered, we malic a sharp turn to the right, and find our- selves on the gay Isszakicho; and a little further on we are among the theatres, museums, booths, tea-shops, and bazaars which line its road. Here all is noise and gayety. Banners and streamers float on the breezes, bright lanterns add to the Yokohama, Japan 69 hrilliant scene; and beating iliums, the samesan, the h'la^h- pitcheJ \oices ot the actors, the criticisms and applause of the audience, — all increase the noise and confusion of the place. We entered the best-looking theatre on the road, and sat through some pantomime acting, which was no\ el to us. The stage was bare of scenery. The actors and actresses were painted and made up with faces like those of the Chinese, although their costumes were ancient Japanese court dresses. The pla\ was founded on a Japanese love- storv, in which a maiden was carried off hv her lo\'er and his friends, atter all the members of her family had been murdered, and their house burned. The storv had no moral, tor in the la>t act the "sweet girl" and her ]icw- made lord were enio\ing great happiness, atter the Japa- nese fashion, notwithstanding the murder ot her pet)ple. We visited a museum ot wax-works, a series ot tableaux from the lite ot a Japanese saint, or hermit. These we found \erv interesting, both as works of the imagination, and in artistic treatment, and some ot them were starthngly life-like. The booths and bazaars, which line the rt)ad, were filled with the hundreds of trinkets peculiar to the native's use; while in the little tea-shops we could obtain tin\- draughts of the delicious beverage, and sweetened rice-cake, which is so toothsome to the nati\'es. Taking jinrikishas early in the morning, with sufficient help to travel comfortably, we set out for Enoshema, to see the colossal bronze statue of Huddha, the " Dai Butsii," near the temple of Hachiman. After a delighttid ride over a portion of the " Trcjcado," the old damio road to the capi- tal, o\er hills and thr(jugh \-alleys, stopping at the little tea- houses on the way, for refreshments and to rest (jur men, we finally arrived at the temple, which is situated in large grounds where priests are contmualK" in attendance. The 70 An American Cruiser in tlie East temple has y;reat altars ami shrines, aiui contains main' specLiiiens ot heautitul aiaiuw, s\\(ii\ls, spears, antl hamieis, ancient ttappm^s of war, ami m.nn tropiiies which ha\e been ccmmitteil to the enstoth' ot the goil ; tor this is the temple ot Hacliinian, the war i^oil. Hachiman was not born until after his mother, |mmi, hail siibdiieil the Koreans, ami placed her arrow o\ er the palace L!;ate at St'onl. After cxaminmL:; the beauties of the temple ami the old swords and armor, we rode on anotlua' mile, \\'liich broni^ht iis into .. ■"■.'ifWu-^j.-i^'f-'-''- the gro\'e ot old trees, throngh which, in the distance, we could sec the threat imaL:;e. Buddha sits alone upon his granite base, surrounded and shailed by old foiest trees. 'I^\ulition sa\'s : " lie was the altar-piece of a great temple which Honrishetl centuries ai^o, and tell into deca\- ; and these great old tices now shade the form of the ' Dai liutsu." " f'-e statue js fifty feet high, and is made of bright bronze which -;s now greened with age. It was made in sections Yokohama, Japan 71 and riveted together. The expression of the face is mild and hene\olent, well fitted for Buddha. The sacred snad is coiled upon his head to ward off ra\ s of the sun. He holds the sacred lotus in each hand, and niassi\e lanterns and \ ascs are placed before him. The interior of the image contains a shrine, and the priest in attendance ne\er tires of narrating the traditions of lluddha and the temple. A tin-thcr ride of about fi\e miles, through a beautiful rt)lling country, brmgs us to Enoshema, and after a short walk through a dark gro\ e of old trees we are at the cele- brated temple of the goddess " Benten." After inspecting the temple and grounds, and enio\ i/ig the magnificent \iews both inland and seaward, we repair to the little tea-house, where we enjov an appetizing limchcon of delicious fish, while watching the exerlasting surf splashing upon the opposite beach of Katase. The iourne\' back to Yoko- hama was \er\' enjovable. The e\'ening was re fresh intj;lv' cool, and the light of the moon, breaking through the trees, which line both sides of the "■ Trocado,'' showed us the way. YOKASUKA From Yokohama, in one of the little steamers to Yoka- suka, the Japanese Na\'al Arsenal, was a \'erv interesting trip, and re\'ealed many facts about these wonderful people. The dry dock and slips for building \essels are large and well planned. Here we see great vessels, their engines, boilei's, and auxiliaries in all stages of construction and repair; and a \'isit to this place would awaken in anv one great respect for these people, as constructing engineers and mechanics. To see the begrimed little fellows at their work of bendin;:, framing, riveting, or plating, attending the shaping machine, or drill press; at the moulding trough, sweepinti; up, or pouring the metal, — all was a revelation, so cleverly did they work. Battle-ships, cruisers, and tor- 72 An American Cruiser in the East pedo vessels, such as an\' iiatioii would he proud to fly its ensign upon, were in process of construction or undergoing repairs. On lea\ing the dock\'ards, we strolled o\'er to the hill where poor ^Vill Adams lies buried. Adams was an Eiiglishman wjio came here in 1607 on a Dutch trader. The nati\ es soon disco\ered that he was able to instruct them in the art of shipbuilding, and thev detained him in the country. Spiritless and broken-hearted, without hope, With a consuming longing for his far-off island home and lo\ed ones, he went about his task as best he could, until finall\- he drooped and died of a broken heart, and was buried in this lo\ ely spot. Thk Ride to Tokio The railroad tra\ el from Yokohama to Tokio, the capi- tal, parti)- along the bay shore, is through a country of varying scenery, and is full of interest. The roadway is Yokohama, |ap ipaii 7S abi,)Lit eighteen miles le)iig, well made aiul ballasted. The cars are luxiirioris, and are di\ided into eonipartmeiits for passengers of diftcrent classes. ( )ii lea\ irig Yokohama, the train passes under the shadow of a large temple, on the suburb, then along the fishing \ilIaL:;e of Kanagawa, which was the hrst designated place ot residence Kir for- eigners in Japan. We pass through the noted tobacco- fields, and chroLisih rsunii, wdicre the planters congregate and exchange experiences o\er their cup ot saki. As we go b\' Ivawasaki, we see its fleets ot bus\' sampans, and later the bare plams ot Owaii', whose porcelains ha\e ne\er been stirpassed. I hrough Kamada, at ttdl speed, we pass to IkcL^au a, whose greatest treasure is the temple of the "Wealth God," old '•'■ Dai Koku," whose pictures ot the god, sittiiiL^ on ba^rs ot rice which rats are gnawing, remind us e)t the tamous (jambrinus sitting upon ins kegs ot beer. In passing through Shinegawa, we ha\'e reached the head ot the ba\', and are at the home of those noted fish with the wondcrtul poppinLC c\es, lU-shapen bodies, and fan-tails. Soon we round through the suburb ot Tokio, passinL^ Alita and Shambashi on the wa\", and ha\ e arri\ed at the station in Japan's capital CHAPTER Vn TOKIO, THE CAPITAL '^r^OKIO is situated at the head of Yeddo Bay, and JL is about ten miles square, containing about one million and a half of inhabitants. It is the seat of the Imperial Cjcnernment and the residence of the Mikado. The Shiro, or palace, occupies a commanding position, and is the most notable buildijig in the capital. It is one of the hnest specimens of the old feudal castle to be found i]i Japan, and its many stories, huge ramparts, wide moats, and grove of old trees make it \'ci'v attracti\'e. Tokio is a busy, pushing city, with the hum and noises of a great metropolis. The streets are bustling streams ut life and animation, and are full ot no\eltics. As the people are changing their garb and customs foi those of the Euro- pean, the streets sh(jw man\' extremes and contradictions. The officials and man\' pri\ ate citizens wear garments made in the western fashion, while thousands adhere to the ancient dress. The grave, pictures(]ue, (]uaint, and grotesque meet, crowd, and pass on. The jinnkisha races by, the street car mo\'es along the rails, and the sedan-chair- man dodges under the horses' heads. A crowd ot human beings tug and pull as the)' moNC great loads on wheels, while the stateh' coachman dri\'es b\' in li\ery. The pul- sations of the steam-engine mingle with the sit:;hs of the poor coolie as he tries to ri\'al it in pounding rice into flour. The dingy kerosene lamp is beside the arc-light. A little fellow with bushy head, in ancient dress ajid clogs, passes by the side of one iji the latest tailor-made garments. The Tokic"), the Capital 79 musume, in hri-ht kimoiu) ami haiulsonic coifturc, trips meml\- b\- the mJc uf hci- sister who isj^owned ui Aniencan tashi.ui. AleJi with bated heads, in datl^-lilue coats and tight pantaloons, and little women m demute kimonos; men in tnll-dress, wearing high silk' hats, greeting others whose onh co\-ering is a coarse shirt ; little soldiers in black uni- torms and burnished helmets; the business-like p(jliceman with sword hv his side ; the hurr\ing postman and the clatter of the clogs upon the walks; the shuiflinL^ of the Makini; Kice Flotk, Japan. throng, and the prattle and laughter of the merry children, who are pla\ini: along the streets ; the ijuaint little shops, with their dark-blue awnings and patient attendants; the little white-and-black houses in almost endless lines, like rows of trreproot safes ; the thousands of odd, ugly, and prett\' things that we see in shops or streets ; the chatting, smiling people ; the lowlv bows and happ\', flower\- salu- tations and greetings amongst the pe(jple ; and the noble- man's carriage at his poor friend's d(jor, — all help to make 8o An American Cruiser in the East up the hustle and noises, and the contradictions and ex- tremes ot this great city ot the Alikado. The Japanese ha\e great appreciation and admiration of the beautiful in nature. The\' wander about the coun- tr\- in little bands, \ isiting some mountain, waterfall, or other beautiful scenerw Thc\' are great lovers of flowers, from the blossoms ot the earlv spring and the roses to the imperial chr\santhemum. In the season, groups and Wist \r!A. crowds of old, middle-aged, and young can be seen strolling through the gardens, or on the roads, admiring the blossoms of the wistaria or the chr\ santhemum. E\-en the poor coolie decorates his person, or his sur- roundings, with blossoms, buds, or flowers. From plants growing m a handful of soil, in pot or box, to those of the garden, all are cared f )r and nurtured. The Japanese will devote years t(j training \-ines and growing flowers, shrubs, and trees. The patience displa\ed is wonderful, and the results of their efforts and skill are the crosses and new Tokic), the Capital 83 species in flowers and shmhs, and the dwarfed ami twi>ted trees which the\' so well know how to produce, or the enormoLis, o\'ergrown productions that would ast(ini>h the judges at one of our coiint\ fairs. The\ can cair\- a him- dred-\-ear-old tree in a fluwer-pot, or grow clie^tmits that weigh half a pound, or potatoes that could not he put nuo an ordinar\- keg. T he dwarfing is obtained with great patience and care by pinching off the rootlets week b\- week, and rubbing off and trimming the ends of the branches until the tree is stunted and will not meastire o\ er a tew inches in heiLrht ; the other condition is obtained b\- patient culti\ation and forcing. These dwarfed trees are planted on little hills in the gardens, amongst rocks, miniature ri\ers, and water- tails, and the effects are not unlike the little artificial gar- dens we used to make around our Christmas trees. A ride through the beautiful, pictuiesque capital brings us to the suburb ot Asakusa, wdiere we \-isit the celebrateil temple ot Kwanin, wdiosc golden imaLje of the -jotldess was found by a fisherman's net at the bottom of the rn er. It was a fitting fiiul, for Kwanin is the goddess of the sea, and her temple is the fa\orite of fishermen and seafariiii: people, who pa\' their de\ otions to her, to supplicate for fair weather and prosperous \ iwages, or to return thanks for past mercies and blessings. At all temples, the worshippers perform ablution bv washing their hands and mouths before ejitering tlie temple, for which purpose large fonts or basins of water are placed in the grounds near the entrance. Each person usin^ the water is expected to dep(jsit a small coin in a box placeil con\'enientlv for the purpose. On each side of the entrance to the temple is a great rvd cage with hca\ \- iron gratings, containing colossal guardian gods, hideous and fierce fellows, whose terrible countenances and attitudes seem to belie their peaceful mission ot recening repeirtant sinners and looking after the welfare of children. 84 An American Cruiser in the East Ha\'inL:; purified hiinselt, the worshipper devoutly enters the temple and selects the particular deity he thinks will suit his needs. This temple contains four shrines and gods, besides the goddess Kwanin : one makes fair weather at sea, another gives a prosperous fishing season or \o\age, a third cures the stomach-ache, and the fourth is the patron of women and girls. The \otary pulls a bell- rope to attract the attention of the deity with whom he wishes to commune, drops a coin into a grated box, places his hands together, and whispers his supplication ; after which, he claps his hands to let the god know he has finished, and retires. The entrance-grounds to the temple contain many hand- somely sculptured stone lanterns, several grim-grinning toxes, and some fine specimens ot the Japanese lion. h locks ot tame pigeons and do\'es swarm and coo about the temple's eaves and grounds, and as they are believed to contain the spirits of the departed, thev are held sacred. Old women sell rice and peas, which the pious purchase and feed to the birds. Kwanin, like all temple-grounds, is used for pleasure as well as tor pious pinposes. The place is crowded with theatres, shows, archerv-galleries, tea-booths, and exhibitors of wax-woiks, some of whom rival the famous Mrs. Jarley. A large model ot the sacred mountain, Fujiyama, is visited by hundreds ot people who view the city and surrounding coLintrv from its crater. The pagoda, which is also near the temple, is approached by a stone walk, lined on both sides bv gay little booths for the sale of toys, ornaments, and retreshments, where the wcmien and children love to loiter and wonder over the gaudy trifles. All the children of Tokio seem to be here to-day ; the din, chatter, and noise of these happy youngsters can only be excelled by one of our Fourth of July celebrations at home. Tin horns, fire-crackers, toy balloons, waving o H Tokio, the Capital H7 flags, and grotesque kites add to the meninieiit and eiijo\- ment ot the \ oung Japanese and his mothei-. All Japan is a paradise fur the aged and the children. Gray hairs are eminenth respectable, and great deference is paid to age. Old age and a clean, honorable life are honored b\- all. Old people are saluted in the most re- spectful language ; a mother's heart rejoices if an aged person speaks kindlv to her babe, and the words are treas- Vegetaiiles I\ JAI'AN. ured as good omens for the child. Children with shaven heads, bright black eves, rosy brown cheeks, clad in gowns which almost reach to their feet, plav and frolic where they will, in the highways or quiet places, with ball or kite or at catches. They are never interfered with or nKjlested. There are no displa\'s of ill-temper, (jr bad words, — all is heartv fun and frolic. PLven the poor coolie, with his heavy burden, will go a long way round rather than disturb the children's p!:'.\'. 88 An American Cruiser in the East Little companies of jinenilc acrobats tra\ el about and give exhibitions of their skill, wherever they meet children at play. The little acrobats are clad in dark-blue tights, with great red turbans, and just enough bright tint to relieve the monotony of the blue. They tumble, cross, pile, and roll, and perform a number of very cle\'er feats to the sound of a gourd-like drum. At the climax of each feat they call out " Hie 1 " — " See ! " — as they extend their tiny arms in graceful acknowledgment of the applause ; and when |,\rANn?F A CROP, ATS. they have finished their programme, a small contribution is gratifying, and thev mo\'e on in quest of other audiences. With all their lo\e tor the )oung, and their beautiful wares, the Japanese are tar behind the rest of the world in the use ot common to\ s amongst their own children. Within the exception ot some \cry poor specimens of monstrous cats, fishes, flowers, and rattles, I ha\e not seen anything that was worthy of the name of toy for children's use. Tokio, the Capital 89 The "wandering " candy manufocturer is a genius, an artist in sweets, and he always succeeds in gatherino in a large number of small coins. He moves from street to street with his little stand, upon which is displayed his Sweets and Toys. Stock of birds, fishes, flowers, sticks, and drops. One end ot his stand is fitted with a tin\ charcoal furnace, above which a large basin of molten suirar is kept rcad\ for use. From this, he forms int(j shape and colors such articles as may be desired. Some beautiful forms are fashioned from the sweet, and it is a pleasure to watch the clever fingers 90 An American Cruiser in the East in their niaiiipiilations, and the \\ide-c\ eel Nomigsters gazing in astdnishnient as the work progresses. 1 he eandies made of pure suijar, while heautiful in form and color, are not fla\-ored to our taste. Other candies are made ot hiirhlv sweetened rice-Hour, which is also moulded into heautiful shapes and highl\- colored. The iu'.iu;ler amuses, and ma\- he called a friend ot the children in this heautiful land. A po(U-l\- clad and otttimes wretched-looking man steps in among a crowd ot merr\- Japanese Jir.c^,Li-:KS. children at their pla\ , when, much to the amusement ot all, he will o[ien an umhrella, perhaps, and hcixin to twirl it on his wrist. Suddcnl\- a -reat hall is seen travel- ling rapidl\- o\cr its surface in the opposite direction. He places a small roll of paper in his mouth, and pro- ceeds to draw therefrom mar\-ellous \-ards of wav-colorcd ribbons; next, he mav draw a sword from his t^irdle, give a histor\' of the hloodv weapon, and with great flourishes proceed to swallow its blade. He will plant a Tokio, the Capital 93 couple of seeds in the ground, cover the spot, mumble some words, and make some mimic passes over it, and then remove the covering, revealing a beautiful plant in flower; or he will place a child in a basket, thrust a great two-handed sword through and through it, up and down, right and left, while the screams and finally the groans from the child are heard. Then all is quiet, the basket is uncovered and found to be empty. Thus he gives trick after trick, in rapid succession, until his stock is exhausted, when he solicits contributions and mo\'es on. A man will be seen feel- ing his wav along in the middle of the road, blow- ing an occasional blast on his little reed pipe. E\erv one gi\es wav to him, for he is blind, and his oc- cupation is to give massage treatment to any who need his services. He will pull and pound, knead and rub you, until every joint and muscle of your bodv aches, and your skin ri\'als the color of a boiled lobster; but the reaction soon comes, and you feel like a new person. This treatment is thought to be good for rheumatism and some other ills that Japanese believe themselves afflicted with, and the poor man has a very lucrative occupation, notwithstanding his apparent helplessness. The Troubadours are usually from the country districts, and are dressed in quaint apparel. They bear a shrine Japanese Troubadours. 94 An American Cruiser in the East of some celebrated saint or hermit about the city ; and wherever they can find an audience, thcv proceed to re- cite, in a monotonous, sing-song fashion, the deeds of the good man. Sheba and Uyeko Parks A ride through o;av' Tokio, with its beautiful life and novel sights, and into the country beyond, where the old trees meet across the broad roadway and shut out the sun- shine, almost the daylight ; through an open country where hundreds ot picturesque nati\'es are at work in their little gardens ; over a stretch of broad a\enuc, hedged with hand- some stone fences, enclosing green terraces, with fine old trees, and a stream of sil\ cry water rippling beside the granite roadway, — brings us through the suburb and into famous Sheba. Through the dense shade, we behold the high, moss- covered white v\'alls, with their quaint scarlet lacquer trim- mings, sparkling in the subdued sunshine, and the great granite torii, with its brtm/.e crests, standing in the open space before them ; while just be\ond is the gold and scarlet black-r(jofed gate that gi\'es entrance to these temple- grounds of the Tokugayva Shoguns. Having reached the gateway and exchanged our shoes for straw slippers, we wei'e read\' to enter the sacred place. The priest, our guide, conducted us into a porch from which we beheld a scene of bewildering splendoi', — courtyards and groves, filled with beautiful temples, tombs, sculptures, and bron'/.es, all magnificent examples of artistic handiwork. The ancient Japanese hut and the 'I'artar tents are en- larged and beautified in these wonderful structures, which glisten and sparkle where\'er a ray of sunshine strays through the dense foliage and falls upon them. It is a Strange order of architecture, pleasing, bright, and warm, Tokio, the Capital 97 even in the subdued sunlight, the almost gloaming. The assemblage, grouping, and colors are wonderful, and one stands at the \ er\ threshold of all this beautv amazed at the magnihcence. The court ot each temple is enclosed with massi\e stone railings. Great rows of sculptured stone and bronze lan- terns, figures in bronze and n'on, belfries, sacred wells, and handsome gatewa\-s, are seen m bewilderino; profusion, and The Temple Foxt at the lOi.Ex Temples. Shell\, xeak Tukio, I A PAX. the whole is surrounded b\- dense gro\es ot old hr-trees which add nature's co\xring to the beautiful scene. The massi\"e temples are warm and bright with gold, scarlet, ffreen, and black lacquers and car\"ings ; Tartar-tashioned ea\-es, tipped, ringed, and edged with weather-greened bronze, are placed under hii^hh" >culptiu"ed and massnc black roots which form their C()\ering, splendid and contusing; and, through and over all, the triple asarum leaf is e\ ervwhere to be seen. 7 98 An American Cruiser in the East A beautiful greenish-black building is decorated with carved panels in scarlet, white, i^reen, gold, and blue, which form the frieze around its sides. A space of black wood, spotted with bright bronze, extends up to the cornice under , , the ea\'es, which is beautituUv carved and painted, and the great dark-bronze and gilt root is dotted o\'er with the Shogun's crest. A flight of broad stone steps leads to a missive platform, upon which eight white columns, embellished with deli- cate tracerv, support a great lintel which is wrought in monstrous dragons, and banded with greenish-brass, the whole giving sup- port to the bronze, tiled root. Two fierce warriors, in ancient armor and armed with bows and arrows, oc- cupy niches in walls of handsomely carved flowers, while guarding the temples. Projecting capitals are formed by half-bodies of fierce monsters with outstretched paws and open mouths, under a cornice of black and gold, from which project other gilded monsters, with contracted brows and hideous mien, who give support to a beautitully carved balcony. The balcony, a series of little panels of children romping among vines and flowers, has columns extending to the roof and .'\ncient Jai-anhse Akmok. Tokio, the Capital I oi crowned with monstrous di'a<:;on-horses. In the centre, a great white-and-golJ dragon is siipportetl between two massive cohinins ; and all around the cornice, and up among the rafters, are hundreds ot tierce dragons in threatening attitudes. A great terrace, within a covered court, is enclosed by rich <;ilt walls; its polished black flooi's are covered with snowy mattiiiLi; ot linest texture ; its altar and shidne are rich in u;ik and scarlet and black lacquers ; the ceilnig is Temples ov the S!^o^,uNS at Sheda, ki"-Ar Tr)Kh>, Tapax. wondertullv car\"ed and colored, wliile the na\e and idiancel are decorated with exquisite carvings and gold. Another broad flight (jt massive stone steps limits us to a base ot immense (granite slabs, stu'rounded In' a hantlsome wall ot highly (jrnamented stones, from wdiieii Lrreat black- and-t:;old brackets reach up and support pi"o]ectinL;; ii;ilt rafters that carry the massive roof; and between them is a band of fric/.e ot rich-colored carv iuL^s in birds and leaves and flowers. Black and wdiite and gold cai'vings are used in profusion ; while the walls are covered with delicate I02 An American Cruiser in the East tracen- and lattice-work, wruuL^ht in exeiui?ite patterns ui flowers and lea\ es, in white^ and lilacs, la\ enders, rose, and gold. Asceiidin2" a bronze ^talr\\■a\" to a beauntul lacquered platform ot^ the shrme, which i> supported b\" tour great white columns, we see monster dragon^ crawling about o\"er the doorwavs, golden monsters trowning from the roof, and monke\"S and birds car\'ed on the tneze and band of the temple's face. The interior recejses and panels are Tome ■ Rom- Dai THE -~IXTH TOKUGAWA SlIOGUN, ToKio. Tafan. ^HEBA, XEAR tilled with beautiful car\ mg in bewMldering profusion; strips of white sacramental paper, and a sacred metal- mirror are >uspended from the mam lintel ; snow-white mats co\ er the dark, polished floor. Gilt columns separate the central walls, and help support the massi\"e ro(_)t, whose ceiling is emblazoned with con\entionalized car\ings of birds and flowers, and the crest of the Shoeuns. It was nearlv sunset as we turned from this magnificence and left the temples. Ascending a broad stone stairway, Tokio, the Capital 105 we passed between two hideous stone lions, and entered the famous bronze gatewa\-, turned short to the right, and were soon before the tomb of Roku Dai, the sixth Shogun of the Tokugawa tamih". On a stone table before the tomb, are bright-bronze storks, lotus-flowers, and \'ases, — ornaments of the Buddhist faith. The tomb is beautiful in its conception and its simplicity, — an artistic combination of geometric lines and shapes which form the Japanese co\ered bell. A base of fi\e massi\'e, octagonal, bronze steps gi\es support to a domed c\linder that is co\"ered b\' a p\Taniid, from the top of which a forked flame shoots up and serves as tinial. The tomb is of hritrht-bron/e which is now becoming green. The triple asarum leaf i^ repeated ten times upon the beau- tiful bronze doors of the tomb which contains the ashes of Roku Dai. Retracinc: our steps a shurt distance, and ascending a slim\", moss-co\ercd old stairwa\", we pass along the great stone galleries until we reach the tombs of all the old kings of Japan, before which stand rows of bronze incense-burners and gigantic storks ; but these tombs are insignihcant when compared with the tombs of the Shoguns. On our wav out of the grounds we locjked through the lattice of the dancing temple. A great black shadow fell across the floc)r, but the lithe form of the " woman in white " had \ani>hed in the darkness. Some of the>e temples arc Shinto, and some are Bud- dhist. The Shinto, " wa\- of the gods,"' is the ancient relio-ion of Japan, and is now the official religion of the countrv. It is fmnded on relationship and duties, ances- tral worship and nature. Its service is spiritual and cere- monious, no sound being heard in the temple, where there is neither decoration nor color, the white sacramental paper and the sacred metal mirror being the only ornaments. The temples are repr(jductions of the ancient Japanese io6 All American Cruiser in the East hut of Linpainted ^\"oods with thatched roof, — the homes of the spirits of ancestors. The Buddhist temples are rich in decoration and colors, shrines and drums and bells; and rows of low stools, containing scrolls ot the law, are placed for the coiuenience ot the de\out. ^^'e de\oted three daws to the Museum and the Zoologi- cal and Botanical gardens, which are filled with most inter- esting specimens, and are cared ttu' hv gentlemen who are hiL;hl\" cultured in science and art. The pleasure and profit A |\rA\ESl- ScMi^OL. ot our \ i>its were greatU enhanced b\" ctun ersatioiis and discussions with these enthusiastic scientists. The impoMiig buildings ot the Imperial l'iii\ersit\" are grouped near the Botanical Garden, \^•here professors and students ha\e the benefit iif museum and garden, for study and recreatiiin. Japan has made wonderful strides in educational lines as well as in other directions. Her s\ stem of free schools range trom the Primar\ Department, thnui^h all (grades, to the Uni\ersity. Separate schools are maintained for the Tokio, the Capital 107 nobilitv, and all male students arc required to wear a white linen cap with the Emperor's crest upon it. The people ot japan are good-natured, flowerv, and respectful in thcu' address. \Vhcn speaking ot thcmsehes, the\' are depreciator\- and humble. The Club and hotels ot T okio are con\'enientlv located and are managed in the European st\le. An\' one can be as comtortablv housed and as well cared tor there as any- where in the world. Japaxesl Wrhmlers. We visited a colony ijf wrestlers near the Ragoku Bashi. Gav banners, standards and tiags were floating m the chillv breezes. The sounds of clapping hands and the "Hie! Hie ! " voices from the interior ot the tent attracted our attention and excited our ciu'iositw Atter settling for the admission, we entered the tent. The tent is held in place bv a framework ot bamboo, and is large enough to shelter se\'eral thousand people. The iing in the centre ot the tent is about twelve feet in diameter, is filled with black io8 An American Cruiser in the East earth, and is formed by bags of rice arranged in a square about twenty feet on each side. There is a red pole at each corner of the pavilion, before which a judge, in blaclc kimono, is seated. The umpire, decked in ancient costume, asserts his importance by shrill screeches, while the spectators, smoking their tiny pipes, sit upon the ground or on the platforms, which are arranged around the ring much after the fashion of the seats at our cnruses. The wrestlers squat aroimd the pax'ilion, outside of the ring. They are entirelv naked, with the exception of a band of silk about four inches wide, which is fastened around the waist, passing between the legs, and tied at the back, lea\itig a fringe to hang over the thighs. Two of them enter the ring and are received with great applause. \Vhat giants they are ! They gulp down great swallows of water from buckets conveniently placed in the pavilion. They squirt the water into the air, and it falls hack upon their naked bodies in a spray. They wipe themselves down with sheets of paper, and then begin to strut and pound upon their chests with their great fists. The)' slap their thighs, strike out with their legs, and bring their feet down with an energv that shakes the ground. One old Chinaman, who should ha\'e been jireparing for a better world, was bus\- taking all the bets that offered, and he was well patronized. After this displav, thev take places on opposite sides of the ring, bow t(j the umpiie, judges, and audience, then sit on their heels and staie each at his opponent. They then approach the centre of the ring, bejid over, place their great fists on the ground, and glare defiance at each other. The wrestlers next rub themsches down with dirt from the ring, where they squat and glare at each (jther again. When the signal is gi\-en lu close, they crouch like beasts, and Tokio, the Capital 109 spring together. Each tries to grasp the belt of his antago- nist. They clutch each other. The great bunches of fat are crowded into great hills of muscle. Mammoth, overfed, shapeless, nude human-brutes, cling- ing, pushing, pulling, and crowding, each endeavoring to overcome the other by mere weight ! Their arms and legs become like great chunks of iron. They quiver, and one has grasped the waistband of the other, lifts the great beast as if he were a child, and throws him over the ring. There he drops with a dull thud, as if an elephant had fallen. What a pan- demonium! How the crowd veils ! The umpire frantically beats his fan upon his hand and screams out the name of the victor. The defeated walks off with ashamed face. The victor squats in the centre of the ring, while the umpire proclaims him success- ful and awards the silk apron embroidered in gold. The victor and his followers march off in triumph. Then another couple appear, and a similar struggle ensues. Some of these matches are settled in about a minute, while others are so well contested that they last for half an hour. These games are about as dangerous as football with us. It is a common occurrence for these people to have ribs, arms, and legs broken, and sometimes a skull is cracked. There is no hitting or striking ; the work is done by pushing, pulling, clutching, and throwing. Japanhsm Wrestlers. I 10 An American Cruiser in the East The trainiiiL!; and methods ot these wrestlers .ire entirelv difterent trom those ot our athletes. rhe\' eat and drink larije quantities ot meat and beer, — amthuii; and e\ er\' ■ thini; that will inerease their \\"eiL;ht. .\Iaii\" ot them wei^h from two to three hundred pounds, and their nuiseles are hard and lirm, althouijh their bodies are so larL;e. ^^ resthiv; matches ha\ e been ta\"orite frames in Japan from the earliest times, and wrestlers did creat ser\ lee tor the feudal lords in ancient da\"s. uKK/Kttf^^^^^y^ - '^^->^'^^!*~''""^ "'":■ ■.-.■^•--:.-f^~-%-£. ,j ^^^^^9 ia^ done b\- men, and athletes still ha\ e their place as workers, but the\- aie no Ioniser uset'ul as n-iilitar\- bullies. Rapid-fire guns and rifles ha\ e settled all that, and their occupation is '.rone. I he next d.i\- a pleasant dri\ e brought us to the Botani- cal hardens, where wc were curious to learn about the flora ot these islands. The oak, elm, beech, birch, laurel. Tokio, the Capital 1 1 1 mulbern-, walnut, chestnut, hanihoo, pine and palm in man\- varieties, the wild plum, cherr\', c\cods, hydrangeas, azaleas, camellia, camphor, poppy, tea-bush, shepherd's purse, monkshood, dandelion, \iolet, lotus, mistletoe, rose, wista- ria, chrvsanthcmum, celandine, chickweed, mallow, plan- tago, golden-rod, thistle, dock, burdock, burweed, loquat, cotton, yam, vegetable wax, \arnish plant, rice, sesame, and tobacco are all well known. I he well-known birds are the pheasant, snipe, woodcock, wild-duck, wild-goose, stork, tit, crow, shirkic, wagtail, ia\-, owl, finch, earget. Our in\ estigations were cut short hv a low, rumbling noise. The building seemed to heave \\ith the undulating motions ot a ship at sea, then all was quiet again. The phenomenon was ot onl\' a very i'cw seconds' duration, but it was quite long encjugh to con\ince us that we had experienced the shock ot an earthquake. It v\'as a small affair, h(jwe\-er, and there was no material damage done. Japan is a lantl of earthquakes. It experiences about fi\'e hundred shocks e\'erv \"ear, and on man\' occasions some parts (jf the country ha\e been sex'crely shaken up. At times, great cities are shaken and rocked like ratts upon the ocean. There is a great strain, as if the internal pressure had o\ercome the imprisoning earth, and the surrounding countr\' is made to oscillate \-i()lentl\-. Slighter shakings on the surface, with crum- blings and undergrcjund noises, follow, until finally this dies awa\', though perfect quiet and relief may not be obtained for months. In such \'ears, an additional five hundred or more shakings are added to the average five hundred. When earthquakes are not felt, the country is threatened with \'(dcanoes, and a terrible eruption may take place at an\- time, and without warning. On the 15th July, 1888, an eruption took place on the grass-covered Bandaisan, and 112 An American Cruiser in the East in less than fifteen minutes more than a hundred and fifty square miles of country were buried beneath a hundred feet depth of earth. The labor of years was wiped out. Villages and farms were buried, and about six hundred people lost their lives. There are three well-known lines through which the subterranean forces act. The first of these comes from Kamtchatka, through the Kural Islands, Yesso, and Nippon, where it is met by a second line, almost at right angles, which runs through the Bonin Islands to the Ladrones in the Pacific Ocean. The third line comes from the Philippines, through Formosa to the centre of Kinshin, where it termi- nates in the volcano Assan, whose crater is ten miles in diameter. Severe earthquakes are as frequent in the middle of Japan, where there are no volcanoes, as in other parts of the country. They are more frequent along the eastern coast, and do not come from volcanoes, neither do they seem to have any relationship with volcanic action as displayed at craters. The latest supposition concerning the cause of these mighty upheavals attributes them to the vapor of water. Water is supposed to soak downwards to the heated regions, and the resulting steam is the motive-force of the volcano and the earthquake. The fact that many earth- quakes occur in volcanic countries near the ocean, where both moisture and heat are present, seems to support the theory, — notably, the frequent changes and eruptions at Bogaslov in the Aleutian group. There appears to be a complexity of causes which may enter into the production of earthquakes, and the proper investigation of them may lead to foretelling the advent of these terrible phenomena. One of the latest great disturbances in Japan was on the 28th October, 1891, about six o'clock in the morning, in the prefectures of Aichi and Gifu. In an area of over Tokio, the Capital I I four thousand two hundred square miles the destruction of buildings and great engineering works was complete ; and stone and brick buildings were aftected over an area exceed- ing twenty-four thousand square miles, while the shocks were distinctly felt from Sundai to Nagasaki,an area exceed- ing ninety-two thousand square miles. There are neither volcanoes nor \olcanic rocks about Gifu, the plain beinir a bed of alluvium lying in a basin of paleozoic hills. It was In a jAPANnsE Ku i:-Field, in these hills that the disturbance had its origin, and earth- quakes ha\e been frequent in this place. The surgical report upon the effects of this earthquake states that; "One thousand one hundred and Hftv cases were treated, mostU' simple and compound fractures, es- pecialK" of the spine and peKis. A threat number of wounds in consequence of neglect were dirt\' and suppurating ; some were co\ered with ma^crots. Numbers of the patients were fe\'erish and sufTerint^ from tetanus and er\"sipclas, but b\' strong antiseptic treatment and care, good results were I ] 4 An American Crui>er m the East obtained, and onlr tour out ot the iif- died. These patients were treated and cared for hv members vt the Red Cross Societ\\ medical officers from the Hospital ot the Imperial Uni\er?itv, and doctors from the Imperial Hotise- hold, the Xa\al and Alditarv Departments, and from the missions." The hospital in which these unfortunates were treated was constructed trom, and upon, the rums ot fallen houses, and the report further savs : " I he result ot ner\"ous excitement showed itself in the form ot tetanus, spinal, and other troubles rather than in an\" eeneral mental parahsis. . . . The tact that Japanese are less ner\"ous and excitable than Europeans niav be parth" accounted tor, perhaps, bv the tact that the former nation has been cradled amonijst earthquakes and \ olcanoes, the manifestations of which rank amongst the greatest of nature's terrors." I receued an in\utation tor the i;th, to attend a Leather- ing in the gardens of the Empenjr's Palace at Asakusa, in Tokio, to \ie\v the imperial chr\"santhemums. Our part\" lett\okohama in the m.jrning, and arrived at the capital in time to drive to the hotel, take a hast\- luncheon, don our unitorms, and reach the palace. After drning through the citv at a rapid pace, we reached an open, rolling countr\-, throuLrh which winds the Imperial roadwav. This road was kept clear of traffic tor a mile or more from the palace entrance. At short distances, a soldier, clad in blue uniform with scarlet trimmings, stood statue-like at '^ attention," and onl\- re- laxed trom this position to salute the occupants of each carnage, as it passed, bearing the guests ot his master. The road is broad, rinelv made, and hard, bordered on both sides by great old trees, whose branches meet overhead and shut out both the sunshine and the rain. As we wound onward and upward, the scene became gayer and more animated. Lines of handsome equipaijes, Tokio, the Capita I 1 7 whose prancing steeds dashed tiic from their heels upon the hardened road, bore gra\e ministers of state, ambas- sadors, and representatives from all the ci\ilized nations of the earth, clad in handsome imiforms, and escorting fair women, to the Emperor's reception. After a hard ride of nearly an hour, we reached the entrance and left our carriages under co\ er ot an exquisite little Japanese house, whose architecture, finish, and decorations are mar\'ellous e\'en in this land ot beautiful things. After presenting our cards, we were ushered into the presence of the Minister of the Imperial Household (repre- senting the Emperor), who was sunounded by gentlemen- in-waiting, and, near b\-, a host of servants. We were each presented to the Minister, who said some kmd things about our country and the President, and expressed the hope that our \'isit to Japan would be pleasant and profitable. The Aiinister and gentlemen wore black trock-coats, light-colored trousers, and each wore the button of his order of nobility. The servants were bright in blue cut- away coats, with bright \'ellow facings, black knee-breeches, white hose, and shiny leather shoes with great sd\-er buckles ; a chapeau under the leh arm. We loitered awhile, with some British na\al friends, to admire the beauty and exquisite taste displa\ed in this little entrance-house, where e\'er\'thing was charming. The walls were co\'ered with a rich rt)se-drab, difficult to describe, more difficult to imitate, and so ertecti\'e as to linger in one's memor\- like a pleasant dream. The floor was inlaid with hard woods, m simple but elegant designs and colors, and the walk o\er it was laid with a broad rich veh'et carpet in bright color>. As we strcdled along t(n\'ards the chr\santhemums, through park and garden, we saw much to admire and to astonish us: a cluster of trees so grouped that their com- mingling colors of greens and reds and browns appear like Ii8 An American Cruiser in the East a huge bouquet in the autumn light ; a pond, a quaint little lake of sparkling water, with its sporti\e gold and silver fishes, with great popping eyes and fan-tails ; yonder a lawn, so smooth and so green it would tempt a tennis* player to brave the anger of the guards to play upon it; a great waterfall, crashing and roaring as its mad waters dash into the pool below ; and beautiful old trees and shrubs and bushes everywhere. At e\ery corner of the walk and bend in the road stood a member of the house- Bahdoo Grove at Fukiagu, Tokio, Japan. hold guards, clad in black uniform and polished steel helmet, at " attention." These soldiers neither bend nor salute, but stand like black statues to ornament the grounds. When we reached the pavilion, the bands were dis- coursing sweet music, — a selection from the opera of the " Bohemian Girl." Brave men and fair women were promenading, admiring the chrysanthemums or expectantly awaiting the coming of the Emperor. Two gayly deco- rated pavilions had been erected on a commanding emi- Tokio, the Capital i i 9 nence In the garden, — one for the use of the Emperor, and the other tor the exhibition of the chrysanthemums. While we exchano;ed irreetino-s with friends and enjoyed joye the magnificent sights about us, the bands finished their selection and commenced playing the Japanese National Air. Couriers were approaching in great state, bowing low as thev cleared the way. After them came the gentlemen-in-waiting, and soon the Emperor. The Emperor was clad in the undress uniform of a general, and walked with a firm, stately tread,' indicati\e of good health and power, and looked every inch the ruler. The Empress, dressed in a magnificent yellow satin gown of western fashion, came next after the Em- peror, and she was followed by the Princesses and ladies of the court, each magnificently gowned in satins of western fashion. After the ladies came the notables of the Empire, ministers of State, judges of the Supreme Court, generals, admirals, and other dignitaries in order of their rank. As the Emperor approached, we all gathered on the roadside and remained uncovered, until the party had passed by, when we joined it. The Emperor is a great lover of flowers, and led the way to the pavilion contain- ing the chrysanthemums. This particular flower is his family crest, and, as may be imagined, the display was exceptionally fine and beautiful for the Imperial inspection. The chrv'santhemums were in great variety of form, size, and color, from the smallest imaginable to a gigantic size, plain, curly, and feathery ; ranging through all the colors of the rainbow, from the " rival of snow " to golds and reds and blues and pinks, with many intermediate shades and blendings. When the flowers had been sufficiently admired, the Emperor led the way to a large pavilion on the opposite side of the roadway, where an elegant luncheon was served. The Emperor and the Empress were seated at 1 20 x-^n American Cruiser in the East a table at the head of the pa\ilioii, and the Princesses sat facing them. Below this point a long table extended to the extreme end ot the pa\ ilion, and there were numerous small tables on the green, just outside ot the enclosure. Our places were at the long table, quite near the Em- peror, who was e\ identlv gratified, and enjoyed the beauti- ful scene fully as much as any of his guests. Sitting here in such presence and with such surroundings, I could but think of the wonderful chani:es this gi-eat man has wrought CHRYSANTHEjMUiMS. in this fair land and its people. Within the years that I have lived, the person of this man, whose guests we are, was considered too sacred for mortal eyes to gaze upon. No foreigner and very few natives could have access to him, — to look upon him was punishable b\ death. He lived in seclusion, surrounded bv his court, the source of all honor and power, without actual knowledge of his peo- ple or their needs. Another, even mightier than he, by inherited usurpation, administered the active duties of the Tokio, the Capital i 2 -] Empire. But this great Emperor, when only a boy in years, tore away the traditions that had hedged about his family for the two thousand years or more that they have ruled Japan. When the Tartars conquered China, his family was an old reigning one in this country. He has wiped out feudalism, changed the entire social system, gi\'en his people a constitutional go\'ernment ; made the practice of religion free ; established a free public-school system, where rich and poor can receive a liberal education ; encouraged and extended railroads, workshops, and electric plants ; opened up mines; extended industries and enlarged com- merce until the flag of Japan is seen in every eastern port. He has made his army and his navy the most powerful in the far East, and watches over all with jealous care, seeking always for the best in personnel and material ; and should the time ever come for Japan to defend herself, it will be a woful day for her enemy, come from whatever quarter he may. Such is the work of this great Emperor, who sits with us, in his scarlet blouse and blue trousers, sipping a cup of tea. Perhaps I should not have intruded my thoughts here, as my intention was to describe the garden party, but the greatness of this man fills me with enthusiasm, and o\er- shadows the simple story. I cannot help contrasting the history of Japan as I ha\'e read it, and the country and the people as I knew them twent\' years ago, v\ith the Japan of to-day as this great Emperor is shaping it. The rain that had been threatening all da\' commenced to fall in gentle patter upon the pa\ili(jn roof, and about the same time the Imperial party arose trorn their seats, which of course was the signal for all to follow, and we were soon outside of the gardens, racing through the rain towards our hotel. Later in the e\ening we took the train for Yokohama, very tired but greatly pleased with the day's experiences, Shimonoseki, the Entrance to the Inland Sea oe Japan. CHAPTER VIII KOBE, JAPAN ON the next afternoon we sailed for Kobe, where we arrived on the second day. ^Ve kept as close to the shore as possible, and had the full benefit of the beautiful scenery. Terraced hills, valleys, and picturesque villages that are scattered along the land \'aried the scene and delighted the eye. All about us, the little fishing-boats were sailed, sculled, or worked about in such manner as to compel us to pick our way, while the mischievous boatmen seemed to enjoy gettmg under our bows, and forcing us to change our course. The little shock-haired, browned fishermen would dip their colors and cheer us on every hand. The trip was more like an ovation than the dignified passage of a man-of- war, and I ha\'e no doubt that these good people remem- Kobe, Japan 125 bered the old ship and were L!;lad to see her again, expressing their pleasiH'e in this hoistcruus niannei". Kobe and H\(ig() adjoin each otlier, and are situated on the Idzuminada, at the entrance to tlie beautiful Inland Sea. Both cities face the land-locked ha\ , stretch along its shores tor about three miles, exteml inland tor about a nii!e to a range of lo't\- hills, where tlu\ struggle up for a little dis- tance, then lose themseKcs under the almost perpcndiculai heights, whose tops form the beautiful plains oi Arima, 'The Falls" at Kobe, Japan. The foreign settlement, at Kobe, is governed by a Go\'- ernor and a Council, composed ot all the foreign Consuls, and three members elected by the property-holders. The settlement is well laid out with wide, clean roads, and is lighted with gas and electricit\ . The water-front is pro- tected by a massi\'e stone wall, which extends the whole length of Kobe, and behind this is a handsome road and driveway called the Bund. The landing is at the foot of massive stone steps, situated nearly in front of the mid- 126 An American Cruiser in the East die of the settlement. The foreign houses are large and airy, being built of bricks covered with mortar, tinted in some pleasing shade, and they arc surrounded by handsome grounds. Many of these houses face the Bund and water- front, and add to the beauty of the scene. HvoGO-KoBE, Japan The old nati\c town of Hvogo is separated from Kobe by the river Minato, a narrow mountain stream spanned by a substantial stone bridge. Hyogo was not opened to foreign trade until 1892, when it was declared to be a part of Kobe. Hvogo is a very interesting town, where we see a busy, thriving native population, who are not much influ- enced by foreigners. Walks through its streets and glimpses of its gay, open shops and little manufac- tories are entertaining' and instruc- tive. Everything is so novel and so different from what we have seen in the other cities and towns. The wares, the shapes, and the colors have been made to suit the native taste and use. Ouaint and strange-shaped bowls and dishes, plaques, and tinv cups, in odd pieces and in sets of two, confront us in the shops, — Liliputian saki- bottles, in blue and white, or ugly browns and greens ; wide-mouthed vases, with chrysanthemum-like top broader than the base, and scalloped around the edges like the teeth of a saw; wrought-iron tea-kettles, beauti- Japanese W'JOD-PeIJLER. Kobe, Japan 1 29 t'ullv inlaid with sil\ cr hligree work, representing \'incs, monsters, or gods ; brass kettles, that ha\e been pcninded into shape, then chased and gra\ en ; hair-pins, and the scores ot knick-knacks that women use in their hair ; bows of blue, or pink, or red, to give brightness to the kimono; mirrors in metal and in glass; hundreds of cheap prints, novels, and fairy tales ; queer-looking and queer- tasting cakes and jellies, and great chunks ot sweets, and nameless toys ; cats and dogs, that might scare the crows jAPANLbE FkIIT ShOI' from a field, and cocks that are just true enouo-h to nature to have a place in a collection ; radishes that are two feet long; tomatoes, potatoes, and chestnuts that would easily take the prizes at our country fairs ; old oak-trees that you could put into your coat-pocket, and hundreds of queer and odd things made for the e\'ery-day use of the natives. Beyond, and away from these streets of shops and trade, we come to other streets and roads just as full of people, 30 An American Cruiser in the East who are moving to and from the temples. The temple of Shinkoji has a very large bronze Buddha, which is placed in front of the building, where he smiles upon all who pass up or down the road, and no toll-keeper collects more willino; contributions than does this silent pile ot bronze. Poor indeed is the man, woman, or child who can pass bv that face and not drop a cash or more. There is a curious old monumental stone in the courtyard, which 'm 'i.Mji)^ Shoi', Kobe, J. man. declares in Japanese, Chinese, and English that "Bud- dhism was first introduced here, from China, more than a thousand years ago." Several hundred young girls were performing a religious dance in this temple, while its courtyard and the roads were filled with people participating in the festivities. When the dancing was ended, gifts of money and food were thrown from the tops of high bamboo towers to the poor people, who filled the temple-grounds. There is an interesting old cemetery near the temples, Kobe, Japan 131 which is filled with quaint, moss-co\'ered stones and monu- ments ; and near by, in a gro\-e of old trees, stands a mon- ument that was erected in 1268 to the memory of the Japanese hero Kujormori. Thus does Japan honor the brave. Near the end of the town is an interesting little temple noted tor its plainness and poverty. Materials have been most sparingly used in its construction. Its exterior is unpainted, weather-stained, and moss-grown; but the in- Jafanese Dancing-Girls, — the "Geisha." terior is full of beauty, so fresh and bright that no one would dream it had weathered the storms of three hundred years and more. Its shrine contains a great brown Buddha, which at the time of our visit was almost buried in flowers, while crowds of gayly dressed musiimes were coming in, their arms filled with blossoms and flowers for its further adornment. Close by stands the old circular stone fort which has been there since before the days of the Dutch. It was 32 An American Cruiser in the East burned out, and is not susceptible oi enlargement or strength- ening, but stands with its craclced walls and closed ports, a wreck upon the land. As we retrace our steps, we see great streamers, flags, banners, and lanterns, which are displayed from the house- tops, giving the town a holiday appearance, and most as- tonishing signs hung out to ad\ertise wares. Bareheaded men, gayly dressed women, with wide-eyed babies upon their backs, or following along in the crowd, make discordant music upon the hard walk with their little clogs. The scene, the bustle, and the great surging, polite, good-natured throng is thoroughly Japanese, " kimono and obi " prevail, while the people trip along, and bar- gain and shop from place to place. We crossed the great stone bridge, which spans the Minato and connects the two towns. It is almost like the aerial bridges ot China, except that it is wider and heavier. We were forcibly impressed by its unnecessarily high ascent ; so great it is that jinrikisha men are compelled to go from one side to the other in making the ascent, and to repeat the operation in descending on the other side. The temple dedicated to Kusumski Masashegi stands near, on the Kobe side. This great warrior is famous in Japanese story for his loyalty and valor. He fell on the spot in 1336, during the unsuccessful war for the Restoration of the Mikado's power. The railroads in Japan are as fine as any in the world. fAPANESK BabIIuS. Kobe, Japan 133 Kobe is connected with Osaka, twenty miles distant by a double-track road. This Inic has been extended to Kyoto (the old capital), a distance of twenty-seven miles from Osaka, to Nagoya and to Yokohama and Tokio. The whole system is called the Ko-kaido Railway, and its en- tire length is nearK four hundred miles. Another road, the Sanyo railway, is being rapidly pushed A "i'RIf JNri_) TIIK CuLNTHY. — I M I- " IvAGA.' on to Shimonoseki at the Yellow Sea entrance of the In- land Sea. At this place the Japanese go\"ernmcnt has extensi\'e dock- yards which contain a patent slip capable ot accommodat ing a vessel ot two thousand tons, where the go\-ernment builds, and hts out, a large tonnage in ci'uisers, gun-ships, and torpedo \'essels tor its na\\-. It is nine hundred feet iontr, three hundred feet lon^c ahos c the water, thirtv- eight feet broad with a declix'itv of one in twenty, and is worked hv hydraulic power. I ;4 An American Crui;;er in the East The Imperial arsenal is situated in the eastern end ot Kobe, where we saw a cruiser, WLth ram bow, and si\ tor- pedo \"e>>els, toixether with their boilers, eUiiiiies, and aux- iliaries in process ot construction. The entire work was done b\" nati\ e superintendents and mechanic>, and the intelliLrence, care, and workmanship displa\ed were sur- prising. The arrangement and equipment ot the dock, arsenal, and shops are admirable, and as complete as could be desired. \\ e had been curious to disco\ er what opportunities the bo\"> had tor acquiriiiL: a kno\\'lede:e or a trade, and learned that the bo\ is apprenticed b\" his father to a workiiiir-man whom he is expected to ser\"e " taithtulU and well." The man oblitrates himself to impart all the information he can, and to explain, to the bo\', the \ arious operations and methods ot hl^ work. The bo\" commences his appren- ticeship when about twel\ e \ears of age, and remains until his maiorit\ . \\ hene\ er, from aiu cause, the workin^^-man changes his place, the bo\" ijoes with him, as the shop- owner has no control o\ er him, except in the matter of' deportment; and a> Japaiie>e bo\ s are well beha\ed, there is seldom an\" trouble. I'hese \ouiiiJ;>ters frequentU" be- come drautrhtsmen and superintendents, as the door is al«'a\'S wide open to the deser\ int; \ ouni; man in this pro- gressive Japan. Shipbuilding is a \"er\" important industr\" of" H\ Oijo-Kohe, and a number of iron, steel, and wooden \ essels are built here annualK. \\ e strolled up the hillside to the temple ot" Hachiman, "the war-god," which is .-.ittiated in a beautiful ero\ e, and is surrounded b\- shrines and treasure-houses, that are tilled with ancient armor, swords, spears, pennants, and trophies from Korea. Near b\" i> the caee of the saci'ed white horse and the huts of the priests. The temple is ap- proached hv a broad roadwav of masonr\-, — a noble Kobe, Japan I 35 avenue, — which extends thioiit^h the cit\' for se\ eral blocks, and is crossed, at intcr\als, hv i:;rcat stone torn and lanterns. To the beautiful gio\'e of old trees crowds of people resort, after their de\otions, to admire the trophies, eat rice and dainties, smoke tobacco, and sip tea, while ex- chanijiiiij CTOSsip or tellino; stories. The \ounger members of the part\ wander oft to feed beans to the poor imprisoned j \r'A\i>E Carphnters. horse, with his projecting ribs and pink eves, clap their hands in merriment at the antics of the acrobats, climb o\er a blear-e\'ed god, and laugh and chatter o\er the fun and frolic. The raised ri\ er-bed of the Minatogawa, lined on each side with magnificent old pines, as straight as masts, many oi them a hundred feet hiu;h, is a pleasure-ground tor the inhabitants of both cities. Under the old trees, little sum- mer booths line the greensward banks, and tempt natives 1 36 An American Cruiser in the East and foreigners to sip the saki, or lemonade, while enjoying the gentle breezes, the music of the soft samisan, and the song of the musiime ; old men fly kites, and boys toss the shuttlecock with the heels ot their closes. ,7 I /! ■>^ ' hi" A jAl'ANESli liAKllKK SllMl'. Near by a merry family-party stops to rest ; the old man takes three whiffs from his infinitesimal bronze and bamboo pipe; the little women and men gambol on mats and greensward ; the demure musijmes chatter in under- tone as they cast fagiti\'e glances at the promenaders ; NuNAiiiKi Waterfall at Kobe, Japan. Kobe, Japan [39 while the mother of the party chats with a neighbor o\ er the fence. All seem happv and joyous in Japan. No sad faces are seen, and it sadness fills any heart the clouds do not appear upon the countenance. The Montomachi, main street, running from the centre ot Kobe through Hvogo, and losing itself in the countr\' be\ond, is a re\elation and a delight. It is lined on both sides with tempting little shops, where beautiful wares are displayed. '1 he fronts are all open, and the interiors can be seen troni the street, which is only about twenty feet wide. Works ot art, ancient armor and arms, bamboo furniture and ornaments, porcelains, fans, lanterns, jewelr\', curios, old and new bronzes, wares ot gold and colored lacquer; carvings in i\'ory and woods ; embroideries, silks, and the hundreds ot nameless things that make up the nati\e woman's finerv ; fish, garden-produce, fruits and sweets, — are all temptingly arranged by the cunning, artistic shop- keepers, who are patiently squatting upon their little square mats, gazing into \acancy, apparently indifferent to the world and its surroundings, but well knowing that then' beautiful wares are sure to draw you into their nets. F'urther down the street are establishments where some of the most precious articles ot the ancient order can be seen, — articles that in the days of the Shoguns were sacred heirlooms in families that ha\e been deposed. Many of these beautiful works of art are in gold, siK-er, bronze, steel, i\'ory, lacquer, porcelain, and silk ; armor that has resisted the spear's thrust, the arrow, and the battle-axe at the \'ery gates of Seoul; swords that have hewn down countrymen and strangers, or perhaps have performed the hari-kari and saved a noble family from disgrace ; old i\ ories, bronzes, and porcelains, that decorated castles tor hundreds of years, — all ha\'e found their ways here. As the settino; sun 140 An American Cruiser in the East seems to gather the hist rays of light and cast them hke uncertain, scattering tints toward the eastern sky, so here we find the last trophies of the dying clans, gathered within the walls of these museums of art, where you and I may have our choice for the merest trifle. The dark hills behind Kobe, reaching to a height ot twentv-fi\e hundred feet, make a beautiful background tor the settlement and its approaches. In the morning sun- light the hills are brightest green and purple, shading into L).\E .Mi.iiiort (>[■ 1i;ki(.;ai!\g the r^Nl' in [al-an. the color of night, while in the evening their blackness is dotted o\ er with little red lights, which shine from the native huts that are scattered on their sides. The Nunabiki gathers its waters about the tops of these lofty hills, meanders tor awhile, until, suddenly reaching a shelving place, it leaps (jver and dashes full a hundred feet into a basin that is surrounded bv perpetual green, around which, as well as up the hillsides, the nature- loving natives have placed charming little summer-houses Kobe, Japan 141 and tea-houses, where they eiijii\ the beautiful scenery ana the waters. The waters, like sporti\-e maidens, frohc and play in the basin, and then make another leaji (jf a hundred feet, and go laughingly on to the sea. The scener\- is just as it came from the hands of the Creator, wild and weird, a place ot beauty, quiet, and rest; and little bands of pilgrims come from e\-erv part of the countr\- to wonder at, adnnre, and enjoN' its beauties. The plains of Arima are situated behind these lofty hills, and as tar as \'ision extends, — until lost on the horizon, where the fields seem to meet the sk\", — nothing is seen but a ^■ast greensu'ard plain, smootli and le\"el, like our own prairies of the \Vest. Middle-Class Homes and Hospitality We were frequently entertained b\' nati\e friends ; and as the nati\-e houses of Kobe are similar to millions of others all o\er this fair land, I will describe one wdierc we \'isited. The house stands about three feet abo\'e the ground on a foundation of bricks. It is two stories in height, built of wood, with an all-around projecting hip-roof of tiles. The sides and rear are enclosed by wooden walls with small openinr^s for windows, while on the front both stories ha\'e sliding doors ot thin \^-ooden frames, co\-ered with white paper. At night, and in stormy weather, heavy wooden shutters are set up in front of these papered frames, and secured on the inside. An oiled and polished wooden porch, about thirty inches wide, extends across the front. Vines are trained upon the enclosed sides of the house for beauty and for their cooling effect in keeping of! the sun's rays in summer. A litttle vestibule, or reception- 142 An American Cruiser in the East room, is just uiitsidc of the front door, where visitors are recci\cd, ajul are expected to exchaiiy:e their clogs or shoes for shppers before entering the house. It would he a gross insult to go in upon the beautiful white matting with soiled clotrs or shoes. >. *' A lArAKESH Clog-Maker. Ha\"ina donned our slippers, we ascend one step, which brin^is us to the mam floor, — into the house proper. Each entire floor is one room, but is di\ ided into several com- partments b\' slidin;); doors or screens, which are tastetullv ornamented and so arranged that the\" can be mo\-ed about in ffrooves that are built with the hcjuse. Each screen has o a little hrori/x' castiiiL; let into its edge which ser\'es as knob to lift it or n"io\e it abcnit. The floors are co\"ered with beautiful white rice-straw mats, about six feet long, three teet wide, and three inches thick. Soft silk, crape, and cotton cushions, about two feet square and one inch thick, filled with cotton-wool, are placed about the floor. Imitating our host, each of us sat upon a mat. A small lacquered table, containing tiny cup Kobe, japan 143 and saucer ot finest blue-antl-white purcelain, a howl of sweets, and a cut (.)t sweet rice cake, similar in appi-arance and taste to sponge cake, was placed heture each of us. These little tables were .ihout one foot hiL'h and one foot square, with a shelf half-wa\ between top and bottom. On the eastern side of the room was a platform of hand- some oiled wood, raised about fi\e inches abo\e the floor. Upon the centre ot the platform stood a handsome bluc-and- white \'ase, filled with chr\'santhemums , and suspended upon the wall, behind the \ase, \\'as a " kakemono," a silk scroll, handsomeb- embroidered with the Imperial flower. A Japanese Home IJinnf.h. In a few moments a large brazier, containing a kettle of boiling water, was brought in and fixed in a place pre- pared for it, in the centre of the ro(jm. A handsome metal box containing tea leaves was handed to each guest. \Vc placed a pinch of the lea\'es in our tiny cups, and they were filled with the boiling water. Placing a sweet in the mouth and sippint^ the delicious tea, with broken morsels from the 144 An American Cruiser in the East rice cake, was the mode. All the while our host and host- ess were doing their best in polite, flowery, honorific Anglo- Japanese to entertain us, and render our \'isit pleasant. J.M'ANESE Doctor and Patient. These people have no stoxes. When it is cool they depend upon thicker clothing tor the body, and the coals in the brazier, for warming hands and teet. When it becomes very cold, they make a good charcoal fire in the brazier, place a wooden frame about it, spread a heavy quilt over all, and sit or lie on a large, heavv cushion, with their feet towards the brazier, pulling the quilt up around their bodies, thus keeping warm while reading or chatting. Often they begin the cold winter evenings in this fashion, while telling blood-curdling stories of murderous robbers, or of the deeds of valor of some natne hero. The floors of the kitchens are made of plain oiled boards, which can be raised, like trap-doors. Under these the family stores of charcoal and other articles are kept. A large brazier is placed near the middle of the kitchen Kobe, fapan 1 45 where the tamih' cooking is done ; atui near h\ is a clay furnace, '■'■ hetsui," ciintainmLi; the lart^c iron nce-boiler which is so necessary in ever)' Japanese tamily. The walls are decorated with numerous utensils for culi- narv purposes, but there are neithei" chairs nor tables. Food is prepared on a short piece of board that is sup- ported on two legs, — " mana-ita." Charcoal and wood are the fuel in general household use. There is plent\ ot coal in the countr\, much ot it of excellent quality- ; but it is too expensive for ordinary household use. H^.w Thev Plehp in Japan. The sleeping-rooms, on the second floor, are sundar in ippe to the room in \\hich we were entertained. A closet, with sliding door, is built on one side of the room, and serves as receptacle for beds and bedding when not m use. The beds are large quilted mats of silk, or cotton goods, about seven feet long, four wide, and three inches thick, and are spread out upon the white mat-covered floor. 146 An /American Cruiser in the East The head, which is ahvavs elaborately dressed, is supported bv a little cushion that serves as a pillow, and is fitted into a wooden frame resting upon the floor. A small cabinet for cosmetics and a pair of metal mirrors complete the fur- niture of the room. There are no people in the world who indulge in bath- inL' more frequently than the Japanese, and their bathing arran2:ements are \erv simple. A large, unpainted tub is The F.^milv Bath, Japan. placed in some secluded spot in the house or garden, and nearly filled with \yater of a temperature that would almost turn a lobster red. Kimono and clogs quickly remoyed, and the nati\es spring into the tub, and scrub and rub and knead t(j their heart's content, the operation being repeated two, three, and often four times a dav. There are public baths in all cities tor both males and females, where a little tub of hot water and a place on the cemented floor (where they can rub and scrub and douchj can be had for less than half a cent. Kobe, Japai H7 Making the Toili.i. | -m'ax. Japane.se GiRLb ANij Women' The lite ot a woman in japan is unique, and \ ei'\ ilit- terent from that of her sister in the United States. Hci birth into the \s-urld is heralded for sc\ cral weeks in ad\ ance by a gaud\- flag or streamer from the housetop. When she is se\"en da\ s e of the ^reat number of di\'orces in Japan. An old maid or bachelor is almost unknown. The girl is not consulted, and has no \ oicc m the selection of her future husband. •The Sitk B ibe, J,\fan. Marriages are arranged b\- the middleman, or " nakado." He inter\'iews the relatives ot both, carries on the court- ing, is master ot ceremonies at the marriage, and acts on all matters of discord between husband and wife. He settles all family matters, has power to grant dnorce, and arrange the settlement ot propert\". He bi'ings the \oung people together for the hrst time. The girl must subnnt to an inspection, and if she is satisfact(jrv to her future husband, the matter is settled. It not, the man leaves, and the ent:;ai:;ement is ofl. When the enij:at:;ement is 15° An American Cruiser in the East there is an e\chan^e of presents of clothing and made, flowers. On the da\ of the wedding the girl co\'ers her face with rice-panit, rouges her lips, and dresses in white garments, — the color for mourning, — emblematic of her death to her father's famil)-. All of her property is sent to her mother- in-law, and after her depart- ure the house is thoroughly cleaned, indicating that she is no longer of the family. In old times, the father's parting gift was a short sword, with the admonition to the girl to commit suicide, " harikari," if she failed to please her hus- baiul. The wedding takes place at the home of the man's familv, to which the gnd has been escorted by the '' nakado," where she changes her mourning kimono for one ot colors presented bv her fu- ture husband. The house is tastefully decorated with flow- ers, and in one corner of the room two wooden figures are dressed as an old man and woman, being mtcnded to signitv long life for the bride and trroom. o Religion and law ha\c \ery little to do with these wed- dings. The\' partake <;t the nature ot an at^recment, and can be terminated at any time b\' mutual consent. The man kneels at one side of the room, where he is joined by the bi-ide, the "-nakado," and members of the families. Thev kneel, facing each other, and tlie man hands the A TaTTumiUi I APAN]'ST.. Kobe, Japai 151 bride a cup of saki, from which she sips and returns it to him. Phis cerenion\' ot drinkinsj; is repeated nine times to the accompaniment of music from an adjoining room, and this means that henceforth the husband and wife — for thev are now united — wdl ihink trom the same cup, whether it be ot prosperit\- or ad\ crsit\ . The relatn es now enter, and a feast follows. Japanesf Cooper. When the tcuests ha\'e departed, the bridal chamber is sought, and nine cups are again emptied. T[ he husband is then served bv the bride, who makes low obeisances, and by all means in her power indicates her belief in her hus- band's superiority From this time the husband's power is supreme, his will is law. After these ceremonies the woman blackens her teeth, shaves her eyebrows, and does all in her power to render herself as unattracti\e to other men as possible; but this practice is rapidly dying out. From childhood she is taught perfect obedience, first to hei- father, then to her husband 152 An American Cruiser in the East and her husband's family; and if she becomes a widow, then to her son. She is tender, gentle, and womanly, but there is no romantic homao;e to her. She has limited privileges, and demands no rights. The railwav terminus is at the boundary line between Kobe and H\ogo, and extensi\'e car-buildings and repair- shops are on the grounds. There are Protestant and Catholic churches in Kobe, and an excellent club, recrea- tion-ground, and three first-class hotels in the foreign settlement. The population ot both towns is about one hundred and sixty thousand. The foreign residents ot Kobe number about six hundred, not including the Chinese, who number one thousand and twenty. Fi\'e daily papers are published, three of which are in the English language, and two in Japanese. The harbor is commodious, and affords safe anchorage for N-essels ot large tonnage. Tea, rice, camphor, vege- table wax, copper, matting, porcelain, and curiosities are the most important articles of export. The value of the import trade is about 526,501,670; that of the exports, $17,314,595. There are 23,679,977 pounds of tea shipped from this port, the whole of which goes to the United States and Canada. Picking Tea Leaves in Jai'An. CHAPTER IX OSAKA, JAPAN TWENTY miles of railroad travel over a finely made road, through a scenery varied bv gardens, villages, and forests, delights the eye, and brings us to Osaka. This, the second city of the Empire, is situated on the Ajiawa River, about five miles from the sea, in the province of Settsu, and is an extensi\'e manufacturing centre. Its houses are well built and close together, and the streets are well laid out, regular, and beautifully clean. Three hun- dred bridges span its canals, and it has been called the "Venice of the East." Osaka is thoroughly native, and is not infiucnced by the foreigner. It is a pushing, driving city, and has been 154 An American Cruiser in the East likened to some of our rapid growing cities of the West. The Imperial mint is located here, and its coinage is not surpassed by any in the world. The porcelains of Osaka are well known and admired throughout the world. Its bronzes are of the finest, and they are deservedly famous. The silk shops display the richest goods that can be pro- duced. Some of its mills send out beautiful patterns in rugs, druggets, and carpets, and others produce cotton cloths that Japanese Cabinet-Maker at Osaka. rival the texture of India lawns. The iron-works are deservedly famous, and the ship-building yards send forth the steamers whose shrill Calliopes make the early morn- ings and the nights hideous about Kobe. Osaka is so much of a manufactLning centre that it will be well for the political economists and manufacturers of the world to remember the artistic tastes, mechanical genius, deft fingers, and cheap labor (jf Japan when making their calculations for the future. The city is the scat of the Provincial government, and its Osaka, Japan M5 scenes are similar to those of the other great cities. The paa;- eantry ot the court, the handsome equipages of the officials, the great throngs ot people, in nati\e and foreign dress, the sedan chairs, the jinrikisha and street cars, and the soldiers in red and blue uniforms, make a picturesque foreo;round tor the ga\-, open shops which line the streets. Osaka was the capital and niilitar\' camp of the Toku- gawa Shoguns. For more than four centuries they shaped Japanese Pottery at Osaka, Japan. the country's course, and made its histor\-, from this citv on the Ajiavva; and it was here they met their tate, and played the last act in the drama of usurpation, by surrender- ing to the Mikado, in 1868. The castle of the Shoguns was erected by Hido-Yashi, in 1583, and is one of the finest specimens of the ancient feudal castle to be found in Japan, ri\alling the palace of the Mikado at Tokio. It is now garrisoned by troops of the Imperial army, and is the military headquarters and arsenal of this district. The arsenal, situated in the castle- 156 An American Cruiser in the East nd grounds, contains vast quantities of military stores a arms. The Haku Butsu, " great bazaar," is filled with speci- mens of almost everything made in Japan : antiques, lacquers, screens, porcelains, embroideries, gold and silver and bronze work. Side bv side are the newest and the oldest, beautiful things and grotesque, rich goods and common, — all attract the natives, who delight to stroll through the roads and enjoy its sights. The Temroji temple and pagoda are fine specimens of Japanese religious architecture, and the little dingy island hotel is a comfortable place to rest in after tramping over the great city. The population of Osaka is 500,324 souls. Its imports are $4,840,507, and the exports are $1,000,601. From Kobe to Nagasaki, through the Inland Sea of Japan We sail in and out as we thread our way among the islands which dot the Inland Sea of Japan, — the beautiful water which connects the Pacific Ocean with the Eastern sea. Terraced hills, dark valleys, bamboo-combed ridges, line its shores, and behind them great black mountain ranges, whose peaks are lost beyond the clouds ; while here and there cities, towns, \ illages, and temples add their beauty. Oucer, square sailing-junks and little fishing-boats are passed, and the sea and sky lend enchantment to the scene as the white ship speeds on her way, with steam and crreat spread of canvas, with the starry banner at her peak, a thing of beauty on the beautiful water. We pass from the sea through the beautiful but treacher- ous Straits of Shimonoseki, the " Gibraltar of Japan," where fortress on fortress, bristling with guns, terrace the hills where the busy garrisons are adding strength to the strong- Osaka, Japan 159 holds, and the huge black piles of coal await the coming of the iron and steel monsters. Between these grim hills, the treacherous waters curl and twist and turn, forming danger- ous eddies and whirlpools ; but ha\'ing safelv passed through them, we hug the shore while keeping well inside ot outlying islands until we reach Papinberg, at the entrance, where we feel our wav through the long narrow channel to Nagasaki. Japanese Sahfan Ferry. The scenery all the while is \aried and attracti\e. A fine pebblv beach extends inland to terraced hills ot wa\'ing rice; bamboo-combed mountains arc in the distance ; and neat little hamlets of tiny native huts lie about the valleys and hillsides. Nagasaki, Japan Nagasaki is situated on the southwestern coast of the island of Kiushiu. The harbor is about three miles long, and its greatest width is one mile. It is land-locked, and is one of the most picturesque harbors in the world. To compare it l6o An American Cruiser in the East with another is absurd, for there is hut one ^.aijasaki. The cit\- is \erv old, and was the most important trading port of Japan in the earl\- da\"s of foreign intercourse. Near here, in 1637, were enacted the scenes attendant upon the extinction of Christianitv in japan. The celebrated island of Papinberg, at the harbor's entrance, is the spot where thousands ot Christian mart\rs, rather than renounce their Ur THE Mountain Stream. Nagasaki. Japan. religion and trample upon the cross, suffered themseh'es to be thrown o\er the high clift'into the sea. The nati\-e cit\- is about two nnles long; and one mile wide, extending along the water-front, and following up the hills until thev become too steep, where it loses itself in straggling summer-houses, tea-houses, and pleasure-houses among the gra\estones, and the little terraced rice-fields. f>om this ele\'ation a beautiful panorama of hills, valley, and sea is spread out before us; and the "sampans," with their co\ered cabins, appear like white gondolas gliding through the waters of the beautiful harbor. Osaka, Jap; m ]6 After the Christian religion had been crushed out, and the foreigners expelled, the Dutch were granted the pri\ i- lege of trading with Japan. On the departure of their \-essel tor Holland, they were compelled to lea\e hostages for its return. The problem of takmg care of these host- ages arose, and the go\ ernor looked about the cit\-, strolled down to the water's edge, and, opening his fan, said, " .Make Ax (")i.ri Stoxe ISRinr.rL, Xac. asaki, Japax. an island like this." This «'as done, houses were built for the accommodation of the hostages, and, that the\- might be safeh kept, the windows were secLU-ed with bars ot hea\v iron. Thus the Dutchmen found themsehes prisoners on the fan-shaped island of Deshema. The 0'Sue\-a, or Bronze-Horse temple, stands upon a hill behind the cit\-, and is approached bv a wide roadway of huee stone slabs, spanned at inter\"als h\ great stone torii, behind whose columns stand massi\-e stone lanterns. 164 An American Cruiser in the East The roadway crosses the moLiiitain torrent bv a fine old stone bridge, — a piece of engineering said to be several hundred years old. The roadway is lined on both sides by little shops and booths which extend almost to the temple. The temple is situated in a large courtyard which con- tains a life-size sacred bronze horse, colossal stone lanterns and a sacred font, the whole surrounded by a dense grove of old trees, where the nati\'es congregate to enjoy the beautiful surroundings and scenery. At the entrance to the temple stand " Gog and Magog" in gigantic, barbaric hideousness, seeming ready to strike down any intruder. The temple is a mass ot dingy col- umns supporting a tent-shaped tiled roof, and enclosed by wooden walls. There are three altars, each having a Buddha with different attributes. Before each is placed a grated box, to receive offerings, and a bell-cord is so located that the devout can call the attention of the god required. A trip through the korausha, or bazaar, gives an idea of the wonderful artistic and industrial life of the people of this section of the Empire. Here we see beautiful cabinets, tables, and boxes ot \ aiious styles and design, made of natural colored woods, — almost incomprehensible boxes, which, turn them as you may, you cannot open unless you know the secret ; embroideries in gold and colored silks ; magnificent old brocades of gold and silver threads; stuffed birds, so natural as to cause surprise ; lacquer boxes and tables and trays, that rival, in decoration and color, the temples of the Shoguns ; handsome and grotesque bronzes ; old and new tapestries; beautiful ornaments in glass and gold and silver; car\'ed ivorv and wood in many designs ; porcelains and pottery ; fruit and Hower stands, where one may hnd his fa\'orite rosebud or chrysanthemum. The crowds of shock-headed men, gayly dressed women, and Osaka, Japan 165 shaven-headed babies trip along good-humoredlv, and add to the beautiful scenes. Chatting together or singintr on the way, thev seem to go through lite in a menv, happy way, living close to nature, as their religion teaches. Jai'Axfse Toy Pi-:ih are caiiL'ht, dried, and salted tor the market. Hundreds ot little fishinir-boats -j^o outside to deep sea soundinijs, where the\" remain until the\' secure the catch the\" desire, or are dri\"en in b\" bad weather. A short trip outside ot the harbor, at ni^ht, soon briiiijs us m smht ot the trreat tleet, — a scene ot enchantment. As tar as the e\"e can reach we see the little reddish-white li'j:hts ot the fishermen, twinkling" as the e\erlastinL: roll ot the sea ixi\ es them undulatiivj; motion that sends weird ra) s through the surroundiiiLT blackness. Osaka, Japan 169 The tcist ot l.intcrns is held in October, after the hai- \ests. hor da\ s preparations are being made, and the testi\"a! is talked about. Cakes and cookies and sweets, and all the ni\sterions things the lapanesc mother can dc\ ise to tempt the appetite and gratif\- the palate, arc prepared. In the mean time, the male portion of the com- mtmitv is bLis\- with preparations ; houses are decorated, lanterns, flags, and transparencies arc purchased or im- AkTlSTS I^RCORAriN*^ LaNTIZRNS. proxised, wagons are decorated, and '' floats "" arranged. When the nia;ht arri\es, the people are in a fe\"er-heat ot expectanc\' ; houses are illummated ; a trreat torch-lieht procession with beatniL: drums, ringmo; bells, decorated wagons and floats, banners and illuminated transparencies, marches throucrh a section of the cit\", and pandemonium reicrns amid this ^ood-natured throng ot men and women. After going o\er as much ot the cltv as possible, the procession is so timed as to arri\e at the head of the har- bor about midnight, when all who ha\e had relati\'e or I JO An American Cruiser in the East friend lost at sea or an\-\vhere drowned, launch a miniature sampan made of rice-straw, ga\-l\' decorated and filled with pro\-isions. A bright light is placed inside of the little sampan, so that the spirit, whose name is painted in a conspicuous place, can distinguish it. Many of these little craft are stranded and burn upon the beach of the long harbor, whdc many others float out to sea to hunt the lost spirit whose earth-name is borne upon its frail bow. Atter launching; these little boats, the people re-form in familv groups, and with lighted lanterns and a store of pro- visions wend their wa\" up the hills, amongst the gra\'es, where the\ teast with their dead. Thev belie\"e that the spirits are present and enio\' the tcast with them. The least lasts tor two nights and da\"s, and when it is ended refreshments are left at the gra\es so that the spirits can least at their pleasure. Alter another trip through the " Curio '' street, where we inspected the beautiful specimens ot armor and arms, old porcelains and silks, reminders ot the last Shoguns and their faithful henchmen, and watched the cunning artisans fash- ionincr beautiful designs in tortoise-shell, we strolled up the hill to the Shinto temple. Turning trom the street into a fliL^ht ot wide stone steps, which is flanked on each side hv hca\\' retainiiiLT walls, we mounted the thirty or more steps which hroUL;ht us under the torii and into the temple court\"ard, — a large terrace bordered on all sides with fine old trees A stijiie \^-ell tor ablutions is fixed in the centre of the court, and numerous elaborateh' car\ed stone lan- terns are scattered about in artistic disorder. The temple is ot plain, old unpainted wood, as the teach- ings ot the Shinto taith require, and is more impressi\'e trom its great size and its surroundings than for architectu- ral beaut\' or decoration. AIassi\'e pillars of bright wood, capped with hca\ \- green-bronzed heads, gi\-e support to crreat Larders and lintels with curious bronze ends ; and little Osaka, Japn an 171 birds fly about, and chirp frcmi their nests between the rafters which support the blacl: tiled roof. A Funeral pRr)Ci:ssii in in I \pax. The matted floor is soiled from use and aee. The shrineless altar, with its sacred white papers and the Lircat metal mirror o\ erhead, adds to the beautiful simplicit\" of the interior. A cotiple ot bon/es, pjiests, in elet^ant robes, were mo\ing about in preparation for some c\ent. As we were about lea\iny; the temple we met a proces- sion ot white-robed nati\"es, two and twc), each man bearing a massue bouquet ot artificial flowers. Bod\"-beai"ers bore a beautitul white-wood box which was about thirt\ inches square, and the same in heiL'ht, with a slantincj co\cr upon it like the hipped root ot a house. A bod\" had been placed in thi> box in a MttiiiL'; poMtion, with the knees under the chin, and the head pres^ed forward. I his coffin, or box, was placed close in front of the temple altai', w hile the persons compnsiiiLC the procession fnrmed a trianude about it, the \'ertex of the triaiiLde beiuL' towards the entrance, and 172 An American Cruiser in the East the sides extending towards the chancel rail. One of the priests pulled the bell-rope to call the god, then all present engaged in silent prayer. The ceremony lasted for about half an hour, and there was no sound except the ringing of the bell, the clapping of hands, and the chirping of the little birds under the roof. One of the priests then clapped his hands three times, when all bowed low ; the procession rc-tormed, and the body was borne out of the temple. \Vhen the procession reached the great porch of the temple, one of the priests opened a little wooden cage and set a beautiful white dove free. The freed bird circled round and round, each time widening its circle, until it had about completed the third, when it started off and upward, almost in a straight line, and was soon lost to sight, emblematic of the flight of the freed spirit. Coffin a,\d Funlkal Oi^nament^, Japan. The little company now resumed its march, slowly and re\erentlv mo\ ing up the hills to the spot where the remains of their friend v.'ere to be hidden from the sight of men. Osaka, japan 173 A drive around the beautiful harbor brings us to the old native tort whose guns were al\va\s pointed towards the de\'oted island of Deshema, lest the poor Dutch hostages should forget their capti\itv and endea\or to enio\ the free- dom of the neighboring hills. Lotus-fields and beautiful flowers are beyond. Charming scenes are through the vale to the right, and the Russian \illage that skirts the harbor is in the \allev through which the terrible t\ phoon sweeps, .A f,\r\NESE Country House N]:Aii XAr^ASAKi, [ai'Ax. and where we meet the odd-looking half-breeds who re- semble neither Japanese nor Cossacks. Turning inland, we dismount, walk up a \'er\' steep hill to view the surrounding countrv and harbor, and are greeted hv a magnificent sight of mountains, hills, vallevs, and clouds of wonderful shapes and colors, with the smooth, mirror-like harbor at our teet. Near us is the new resi- dence of the kenshaw, oi' go\ernor, imposing in si/.e, of the Russo-Japanese style ot architecture, situated on a com- manding blufFat the head of the harbor, and surrounded by 174 ^^ American Cruiser in the East a handsome garden, which is also the official weather signal station, where the approach of t\phoons are about as well foretold as rains are foretold at home. We \isited one of the public schools, situated on a hill near the kenshaw. The schoolhouse is a rectangular building, light and airy, cxternalh" ha\-ing the appearance of an immense conser\'ator\', as it is almost entircU" made up of windows, doors, and root. It is about two hundred In tiik RlCE-Fli^Lli. feet long;, one hundred tcet wide, and two stories hisih. It stands in a court\"ard about as large as two of our city blocks. The interior ot the building is di\ided into corri- dors and class-rooms, each ot which is fitted with little tables, seats, and blackboards. To gi\e some idea of the appreciation of the schools bv the people, our dri\-er intoi-mcd us, with a great deal of pride in his manner, that /j/> children attended this school. Further on, we left the hills and re-entered our vehicle, crossing two ot the fine stone biidgcs that ha\-e spanned Osaka, Japan 177 this mountain torrent for centuries. Then we went up the road, which leads along the falls, to see the crazy old mill whose race passes o\ er one wheel and under another, as it furnishes power from the flowing waters, to grind the people's rice. Crossing the cit\-, we meet groups of men and women returning from their dailv toil of fratherine twi^s from among the trees on the hillsides, and behind them groups of charcoal-\enders, who have their little crossed piles of coals swung from bamboo poles, borne upon their shoulders, — e\ery one ot them ha\ mg a prettv little nosegav, or bou- quet in hand, or on the burden, so dearlv do these people lo\'e flowers. Pushing on up the hill, amoni:st the gra\'es, we reach a fa\orite tea-house, where we stop awhile tor rest and re- treshments. Ha\"ing exchanged our sht)es t(jr light slippers, we pass over the white-matted floor to the verandah beyond, where we enjo\" the beautiful scener\- while awaiting the preparation ot our luncheon. Soon the Honorable Miss Bamboo and the Honorable Miss Chr\santhenium make their appearance, and, tallinu; upon their knees, exchange the compliments of the dav, aiul recei\ e oLir orders. After a time the luncheon is spread before us in Ameri- can fashion, and with sharpened appetites we proceed to make our honorable waitresses stare at the wa\' the good things disappear. Stare, did I sav.' I did not mean exactly that, for no t pa^sau;es, is an experience ne\"er to be forgotten. There one sees the little brown, blackened [aps, picking, wheeling, trucking, and sendinu; the Coal to the surface, with their tin\' safety lamps, like Liliputian head-lights, to guide them, and one feels a realiz- ing sense of being so far under the sea. When the fresh air IS reached, and one's feet arc fixed upon the green- sward, the sensation is one of ercat relief.' We de\(ited an afternoon to a trip to the crematory, which ii located mi the top of one of the highest hills behind Nagasaki. Oui' guide was a little superstitious, and, when he learned our destination, he refused to go with us; so, Lnited States fashion, we went yvithout him. Not 1 There are seicral very pr(]diicti\e coal mines near Nagasaki, of winch the Vackashenia mine is tlie most important, tlie production bemu- over 300,000 tons in one year ; that of the Nakamashema mine is 125,509 tons, and tile aggregate production of the various mines in the locality is abeiut 800,000 tons. Osaka, Japan 179 being able to find the road, we coneluded that "all roads lead to Rome," and struck out across the country, o\er rice-fields and terraces, climbmsj; o\er parapets, and at times going a long way around to a\-oid the flooded rice- fields. The tramp was particularly fatiguing, as the mer- cury had taken a sudden jump up into the nineties tor our benefit. Tired out, but undaunted, we finalK- reached our destination, and found the place well worth the visit, but, I must confess, a little mourntid. Japanese Bull Cakt. The hmldinw is a masMye brick structure, with a tall chimney of the same material, and it is situated in a barren courtyard. A little Japanese summer-house, with white avynings and massive black characters, stands to the right of the entrance, and a great pile of cord-wood is neatly lined up behind it. There are no trees on the premises, no sounds ; not even the note of a stray bird breaks the awful stillness of this Di\-es-like inferno, man's device to cheat time and rob the worm. i8o An American Cruiser in the East We entered through a large central doorway which opens into a wide hall that extends across the entire breadth of the building and meets two other halls which extend to the rear. The hallways are lined with furnaces, so placed that their backs form the base of the great one- hundred-and-hftv-feet-high chimney. The furnaces ex- tending across the front hall are reser\ ed for the rich, while those opening into the side halls are on one side designed ^™^^ 'fe-^^S^^^S^^SBISBC fe; V ■^^mmmm€-' - ' .-^-'^^^^ BB^^v;^^>^^^ •^HB^BBMKBEE'^^^M^S^g^^^^^BB^^^^B 9 "The Old Mill" Ar Nagasaki, Japan. for the middle classes and on the other side for the poorer people. The furnaces are rectangular iron boxes, built in with the brick work, with an opening in the back end near the top of each, and each furnace door is fitted with a regulating damper. When a bodv is to be cremated, the religious services, it any, are held in the halhvav. A known quantity of cord-wood is spread over the bottom of the furnace, then the body is placed upon an iron truck, the truck is run into the furnace over the wood, the wood is ignited, the Osaka, Japan i 8 i door closed, its edges made tight with luted clay, and in one hour the bodv is reduced to ashes. The door is then opened, the truck is drawn out of the furnace, the ashes are caretullv gathered from the truck and placed in a vase, the top ot which is sealed and marked. At this point my companion became nervous, and imagined all sorts of horrible things, and it was with great difficulty that I could quiet him, and get him into condition to make our down- ward journev. Our descent was pleasanter than the ascent as we tried a road which led us directly to the Bund, and we were soon on board of our ship. The climate of Nagasaki is mild in winter, and healthy at all seasons of the year. It is hot in summer by reason of the situation of the town on a plain surrounded by high hills. During the last few years the foreign trade has steadily improved. The chief articles of import are cotton and woollen goods. The piincipal exports are coal, tea, cam- phor, rice, and dried fish.' The " Rising Sun," a small English weekly paper, is published here, and also two native papers. There are Protestant and Catholic churches, mission houses and schools in the settlement, which is just south ot the nati\e city. Moji, Japan Moji, an important fishing village, containing about five thousand inhabitants, is situated on the opposite side ot the island from Nagasaki, about five miles distant. It is now 1 The value of the im|inrt trade of Nagasaki was .^3,000,133, and that of the export trade #3,482,216. Coal is the chief article of ex- port, amounting to nearly one half of the ivhole export trade. The population of Nagasaki is r,o,S6o. The number of foreign residents is 1,006, of whom 671 are Chinese. iSz An American Cruiser in the East reached b\- a broad new pass cut through the mountains, in a countr\- justly celebrated for its beautiful scenery. Formerh-, the distance was about eight miles by a narrow countr\' road that woiuid upwaids and over the mountani- tops. Thousands of men and women were employed in remo\'ing this great mass of earth and rock with tiny shovels and baskets which hold about a peck of earth. The pass through the mountains is about one hundred teet wide and about one mile and a halt long, and the banks are more than three hundred feet high. The road-bed has been so carefully made that it is as hard and smooth as a well-made city street, and the whole roadway to Moji, about five miles in length, is in the same condition. MeiJJ, jAt'AN. At every step and turn in the road there is something to attract and to admire : terrace on terrace where the beautiful rice bows its head to the gentle breezes; the bamboo groves and little shrines; the torii and temples; Osaka, Japan 183 the old mill in the deep ravine ; the swift-running, mad mountain stream, now swollen to ri\er proportions, with clear, sparkling waters rushing on and down to the sea, turning this wheel and that, as it grinds the rice or spins the Hillside Graves ul the Martvks, Moji, Japan. cotton ; the quaint little tea-houses, with their wistaria arbors shading the road, and the peaceful smile of the old hermit of the mountains as he welcomes you to rest in his little black hut. Moji Is built around a semi-circular bav, its houses and huts occupjiny; the level ground between the beach and the hills be\ond. Here one sees nati\e life uninfluenced by foreign fashions; and the male portion of the population being absent on their fishing excursions, the village appeared to be inhabited by women, children, a few old men, and the crowd of squeak-voiced curs that were continually snapping about our heels. 184 An American Cruiser in the East riic luautifLiI ink', the \ariitl architcctuR-, tlic pictui'- es(]uc old inn at the entrance ot tile descent bay, the little lislinig \'essels, tossnig; about in unison with oKl ocean's swell, and the niagniliceiit seeneiy about iis, — all make Moji a charniinjj; place to visit. CHAPTER X CONSTITL'TION' A\D GOVERNMENT OF JAPAN THE go\ ernment of Japan was until reccntK' that of an absolute moiiarch\ . The Alikados were the supreme heads ot the Empire, and the source of all honors and power. The\" were encouraged to li\e in seclusion and pleaSLire (their persons being considered too sacred for ordi- narv mortals to behold), while the Shoguns, the militar\' commanders, assisted b\- the !3amios, or feudal lords, superintended the acti\'e administration of affairs. Se\-eral attempts were made by restless Alikados to depose these usurpers, but their efforts were not successful until 1868, \vhen the present reigning Emperor o\"erthrew the power of the Shoguns in a short, shai-p war. They surrendered their lands, retainers, and incomes to the Mikado, who granted them one tenth of their incomes and required them to reside in Tokio. The reigning monarch, Mutsu-hito, meaning "Honorable Gate," was boi-n at Iv\-oto No\embcr3, 1852. He suc- ceeded his father, Komei leune, in 1867, and married Prin- cess Han-ko December 28, 1868. The Empress was born April 17, 1850, and is the daughter of Piince Itchijc. The present Emperor is the one hundred and twent\-first descendant of an unbroken d\ nast\" which was tdunded 660 B. c. ]]y the ancient law of succession, the crown de\ol\cs upon the eldest son of the Emperor, and, tailing male issue, upon his eldest daughter. ])isregard ot this law- of succession has frequentU' occurred, and this was one of the chief causes that brought about the dual s)stem of 1 86 An American Cruiser in the East government in Japan. Women lia\e trc(|uently occupied the throne. The power of tlic Mikado was formerh' absolute, but in 1875, when the Senate and Supreme Judieiary were estab- lished, tlie Emperor declared his intention tci toini a consti- tutional system of o;o\ernment. The I'^mpenu' has alwa\'S been the spiritual as well as the temporal heati of the Empire. The official religion is the Shijitu faith, — "the wa)' of the cods ; " but theie is no interfeience in reliirious matters, and all religions are tolerated m Japan. In '^77, the Ecclesiastical Department was retluced to a bmt-au under the Interior lOepartment. The Emperor acts through an E\ecnti\f Council, which is divided into nme departments, the head of each being a great Minister of State. I'he departments are those of Eoreit^n Afl^airs, the Interior, Agriculture, [ustice, Finajice, Education, the Navy, the Army, and ihv Departmejit of Communications. The new Constitution was proclaimed in Kebruary, 1889, and in iHqo the first Japanese Pail lament was chosen. It is composed of a House of Peers and a hlousc of Representatives. The House of Pters is composed of three distinct classes, — Hereditary, Elective, and Nomina- tive Members. The House of Representatives consists of three hundred members, who are electeil by ballot, for a term of four years, but in case of necessity the term may be prolonged. The Emperor selects the members of his Cabinet, or Council, and they are not responsible to the Parliament. Eor administratiye purposes, the Empire is divided into three I'u, or cities (I okio, Kyoto, and Osaka), and forty- three Ken, or prefectures, including the L Yori-touri, a general ot o;reat abilit\", founded the Shogiinate in i 184. It continued throuL;h se\eral d\'nasties, and exercised the executi\e authorit\-. The administration was shared b\' the two hundred and fifty Damios, or feudal lords, who were supreme in their own dominions so lonsi as the\" remained lo\"al to the Shogun. The great Tokugawa family vyas deposed from its usurped authorit\" in i86q, and the rank and powers of the Damios tell with it. In 1884, the nohilit\' were re-established, and the most distinguished militar\" and ci\ il officers who t(.iok part in the Restoration of the Emperor were admitted to its ranks, — Prince, Marquis, Count, X'lscount, and Baron replaced the ancient titles. The re\enuc of Japan is 585,080,081. The total expenditure is 885,978,078, — about two dollars per annum for each soul in the Empire. .An'.iknt Jafane.se Warrior. 1 88 An American Cruiser in the East The Japanese Army The army of Japan consists of the standing army, the reserves, and the militia. The standing army, when on a peace footing, is composed of 61,976 men, and when on a war footing, 245,310 men, which can be increased to one million. The Imperial Guard is composed of 5,336 picked troops, who do duty at the capital. The Empire is divided into six military districts with headquarters at Tokio, Nagoya, Sendai, Osaka, Kumamoto, and Hiroshima. Four regiments of infantry, one regiment of cavalry, two batteries of artillery, one regiment of engi- neers, and one regiment of transport corps are stationed at each headquarters, and camps of instruction are estab- lished in fifty-six other places. The army is organized on the French system by officers specially selected by the French government. The Em- peror looks after the army and navy with jealous care. At the mancEuvres, which are held every year, the Emperor spends days in the saddle, or on board ship, familiarizing himself with the condition of the troops, insisting always on the best in personnel, equipments, material, and move- ments. His tastes and the tastes of his people have always inclined toward outdoor exercise, the use of warlike weapons, a chivalrous bearing, and the cultivation of qualities which develop warriors. The Navy of Japan The navy of Japan comprises five steel coast-defence vessels, ten composite corvettes, two iron-clad frigates, six steam sloops-of-war, — five of steel, one composite, — five steam gunboats, three torpedo-catchers, four seagoing tor- pedo boats, and thirty-five torpedo boats, whose numbers are being increased by vessels built in Japan and in Europe. The steel coast-defence vessel " Itsukushima," built in Constitution and Government 189 France,' has a displacement of 4,278 tons with engines of 5,400 horse-power. Her armament consists of one 65-ton and twelve smaller breech-loading steel rifles. One sister ship built in japan, and one built in France, ha\e similar power and guns. The iron-clad frigate " Fuso " has a displacement of 3,779 tons, with engines of 3,932 horse- power. Her armor \aries from 7 to 9 inches in thickness. Her armament consists of four 15.25 and two 5.5 ton breech-loading steel rifles, so placed as to command e\'ery point ot the compass. • The iron-clad cor\ette " Ivongo " has a displacement of 3,000 tons, with engines of 2,500 horse-power. A belt of armor 4.5 inches thick extends around her, and her arma- ment consists ot 124-pounder breech-loading steel rifles. The " Hi\ei," a sister ship to the " Kongo," has similar displacement, power, armor, and battery. The steel cruiser " Tsukushi " has a displacement of 3,000 tons, steams 16 knots an hour, and her armament consists of two 25-ton breech-loading- rifles. The " Naniwa " has a displacement of 3,700 tons, steams 18 knots an hour, and has an armament ot two 25-ton breech- loading steel rifles, besides a number ot machine guns. The " Takachiho " is a sister vessel to the " Naniwa," and has equal displacement, speed, and batterv. The " Yoshino " has a displacement of 4,200 tons, with engines of 5,500 horse- power, steams 22 knots an hour, and has an armament of two 25-ton breech-loading steel rifles, machine guns, and three torpedo tubes. The steel cruiser " Chiyoda " has a dis- placement of 2,400 tons, with engines of 2,500 horse-power. Her armament consists of one 25-ton breech-loading steel rifle, machine guns, and three torpedo tubes. Japanese sailors are bold and \enturesome, and the mechanical genius of the people fits them for the guidance and management of the great trghting machines of these times. CHAPTER XI POPULATION AND INDUSTRY' OF JAPAN THE area of Japan is estimated at 156,604 square miles; and the population, according to the census of 1890, was 40,453,461, of whom 20,431,097 are males, and 20,022,236 are females. The Kmpn'C is divided, geographically, into tour depart- ments or islands, — Henshiu, Knishiu, Shikoku, and Yezo. The first three are suhdi\ided into eight trreat di\isions containing sixtv-six pro\'inces, and Yezo is di\ided into ele\'en pro\mces. The Japanese ports ot Yokohama, Kobe-Hvogo, Hako- date, Nugatee, Nagasaki, and the cities of Tokio and Osak are open by treaty to foreign trade ' and residence. Thev each ha\e a designated settlement where foreignei's may reside. Some ot the treaties were re\ ised in 1889. Th new treaties were to become etfecti\e in 1890, when the ca e 1 The follnvving table ■-hnws the tntal value nf the principal classes of gorids exportetl troni Japan, in yen, or Mexican siUer dollars, as: Books and Paper . ^269, 979 Silk and Cocoons $32,175,891 Coal 4,749,734 Skins, Hair, Shells, Drugs, Dyes, occ. . 2,506,116 Horn, &:c. . . 279,718 Grain and Pro\-isions 10,923,467 Tea 7,033,050 Matches . . . 1,843,637 Clothing, &-e. . . 5,372,413 Nfetals .... 5,409,773 Duty free CSooils . 6,247,764 Oil and Wax . . 639,483 Foreign Produce, &;r. 789,219 Porcelain and Earthen- "';rre .... 1,287,027 Total . #79,527,272 Population and Industry of Japan 191 whole ot Japan was to be thrown open to foreign commerce and extratorialitv, — which is \'er\- distasteful to these clever people — was to be abolishetl. On October 19, 1889, the Japanese Minister ot Foreign Affairs was se\erelv wounded in the capital in an attempt upon his lite, incited bv the agitation ot treat\' re\ ision, and the work was then suspended. The re\ ised treaties had been signed b\' the United States, Russia, and Cjerman\-, but thev were not ratified. Negotiations were resumed, and the United The imports from varinus ffireign countries arc classified by the Imperial Bureau ot Revenue, also m )'en, or Mexican sih'er dollars, as: — Arms, Clocks, Ma- Lime and Manutac- chinerv, i'C. . . 53,990,611 turcs ot . . ^326,159 Beveraa;es and Pro- Metals and Manu- visions . . . 886,950 factiires of . . i;,i+o.S93 Books and Stationery 609,990 Oil and \A'aN . 4,971,781 Clothing and x'\pparel 755,519 Silk Manufactures . 5151377 Cotton, Raw . . 8,199,251 Sugar .... 7,811,307 " Yarn . . 5,589,290 Textile Fabrics, " Piece Goods 3,502,127 Miscellaneous . 393,590 Drugs, Medicines, Vessels .... 674,270 andChemicals . 2,225,767 ^^'incs and Lic|uors 430,111 Dyes and Paints . 1,218,202 ^Voollcn Manufac- Glass and Glassware 379,075 tures .... 5,481,938 Rice, Beans, ^vc. 6,106,537 Sundries . . . 2,521,639 Hair, Horns, I\ory, Skins, S;c. . . 1,177,101 Total . 562,927,268 The total shipping from and to foreign countries for the year 1893 was ; — Eiiteyed. Tonnage. Cleared. Tonnage. Steamers. . . . 1,358 1,906,698 1,231 1,604,995 Sailing yessels . . 1,006 15^, '^05 1.167 I5 + -3-5 2,364 2,063,305 2,398 1,759,320 of which 1,262 steamers and 19 sailing yessels entered, and 1,280 steamers and 19 sailing vessels cleared in the coast trade; ot these, more than one half were Japanese employed in foreign trade. 192 An American Cruiser in the East States and British treaties were re\"ised and signed in 1894. Railwavs alread\' completed and in course ot construction will soon make a line of communication from the extreme north to Nagasaki in the south, branching off to the im- portant cities in the east and west. In 1S92, the Parlia- ment enacted a law authorizing the eo\"ernment to con- struct lines of state railwa\"s connecting all the important cities and towns in the Empire, and to issue bonds to cover the cost. Tokio, Kobe, 0?aka, Yokohama, Nagasaki, and Hakodate are now connected with each other and with the United States, I'ui Europe, b\- lines ot telegraph and cables. There are more than se\en thousand miles of telegraph wires, connecting all the important towns in the Empire. Japan is a member of the Uni\ersal Postal Union, and for the past eighteen vears has managed the international as well as domestic postal ser\dce. The telephone, electric lights, steam mills, and street-cars ha\-e been introduced into the capital, and the first three into nearlv all the large Cities ot the Empire. The Religions of Japax The Japanese in ci\-ilization aie far in ad\-ance of other far-Eastern people, and ha\-e a more liberal appreciation of Western thoughts and customs. This is due to the fact that their national religion is Shintoism. To-dav, Chris- tianitv, Buddhism, and Shintoism flourish side bv side but Shintoism is the religion of the state, and gives direction to the thoughts ot the Empire. Japanese historv and Shintoism date from 660 B. c. ; Buddhism came through the snows of Korea, in 550 a. d. ; and Christianitv was reintroduced after Perrv's \isit. Christianity was looked upon with suspicion ;'nd a certain dread which sur\ived the unhappv experiences of the six- Japanese Fikeme.x o.\ 1'arade. Population and Industry oi Japan 195 teenth centur\', and althouiih these are slowly dying; away, the\' ha\-e aftected the progress of Christianity. To comprehend Shnitoism, we must examine Tacjism and Coiitucianism, from \yhich the Shinto taith was formulated, and stud\' its wonderful eflects upon a nation isolated from the outside world. The doctrine of Shmtoisni, " Kami-no- michi," or " The wa\' of the nods," is contained in a combi- nation of selections from Taoism and Confucianism, and IS ot Chinese orii^in. Its fundamental principle is hero- worship, the \eneration of the countr\"s heroes and bene- factors, and ot all ancestors, ancient and modern. When the Mikado iJa\ e his people their present liberal Constitu- tion, he iinoked the spirits ot his ancestors to witness the act. Shmtoisni is broad and liberal. It lends a hclpini!; hand to e\er\"thing that tends to uplift the nation, and its priests and followers ha\e abyays given aid and welcome to priests and missionaries ot other creeds. Notwithstanding the fact that Shintoism has been the religion of japan for more than twent\-f )ur centuries, it \yas not declared the established relitrioii until the \'ear 1868, after the restoration of the A'likado, when a grant of iiJoo-jOOO per annum was made toward the support of its one hundred thousand temples. Shintoism and Buddhism work side by side, and the rites of either are administered as the people may prefer. Bud- dhism is pushmcr and aggressiNC, and had almost superseded Shintoism. The principal deit\- ot the Shinto faith is Rlingo-no- Alikato, the ancestor of the present Mikado, who is said to have been descended from the sun. The Mikado is known as the " Son of Heayen," on account of his descent from Alingo-no-.Mikato. It is said that '^ \yhen the goddess of the sun made ' Mingo ' soycrcign of Japan, she gave him the ' way of the gods,' and ordered that his dynasty should 196 An American Cruiser in the East be as immovable as the sun and moon." The goddess also ga\'e him a mirror, and commanded him to look upon the mirror as her spirit, to keep it in the same house and upon the same floor with himself, and to worship it as he would worship her actual presence. Shinto Priest, Japan. There are ten parts of the Sacred Book, Yengi Shiki, which are devoted to court ceremonies, and these occupy a prominent place in the rules of the court of the Empire. The great incarnate god is the Mikado, but everything in nature is exalted and deified. Population and Industry of Japan 197 Shinto temples are usually divided into two compart- ments. One contains the emblem of the deity, which may be a mirror, a sword, or a stone, kept in a sacred box within other boxes, covered with wrappings of brocades, and tied with silken cords. In the other compartment, usually the outer one, pieces ot white paper cut in a peculiar shape hang from a lintel o\erhead. There is usuall)' an oratorv in front ot the temple, with a gong hanging over its entrance, so that the de\out can call the attention of his god, and before this oratorv the worshipper bows and clasps his hands to- gether while offering his silent prayer. He then claps his hands, throws a tew small coins into the box for offerings, and departs. The priests sell slips of paper bearing the name and title ot the god, which many of the people use as charms. The temples are generally situated in a grove of trees, and there are often additional buildings near, which are dedicated to other Shinto deities. These temples are of the plainest architecture, without coloring or decoration. The floor is raised a few feet from the ground, and a narrow balcony extends around the entire structure. The approach to a Shinto temple is always under a torii, " bird-perch," a lintel placed across two up* ritrhts at the entrance to the grounds. Sometimes more than one mark the way to the temple. The\' are made ot hea\'y or ot light materials, — wood, stone, or bronze, — and are sometimes painted a bright red color. The central part of the lintel may have inscribed upon it the name ot the deity to whom the temple is dedicated. The temple of Ise at Yamato is Shinto, pure and simple, and as it is one ot the most ancient shrines in the Empire, it is annually visited by thousands ot pilgrims. There is no grand architecture or decorations, no sacrifices, and tew symbols. The main columns of the temple are supported on heavy stone foundations, the floors are raised about four feet from the ground, and the walls are ot wood. The 198 An American Cruiser in the East roof is thatched, and metals ha\'e been sparingly used. The posts, rails, and fences are unornamented, and there is neither car\'ing, lacquer, nor color, simply the brown and grav tints and the mosses of weather-stained woods, — the ancient hut enlarged. The " torii " are the gatewa\-s, and hanging curtains of white swing for grates. The lanterns are ot coarse white paper, decorated with the conventional chr\santhemum, the crest of the Mikado. The offerings upon the altar are rice, salt, fish, and flowers, and the emblems are as simple, — ropes oi" rice-straw and wisps, and hanging slips ot white paper, each a symbol in the story of the sun goddess, being enticements from the ca\e to which she had retired from the moon god's \'iolence. The sacred mJrror is never seen by mortal eves. It is kept in a box which is wrapped in white silk and covered by a wooden cage, which in turn is covered with a silk wrapper. The mirror is in a brocade bag, and as soon as its sheen begins to fade with atce, a new mirror is added without remo\ing the old one. The priests call the attention of the deity by a few strokes upon a gong or bell, recite a few short prayers, bow the head, and retire. Buddhism in Japan There are as manv Buddhist sects in Japan as there are Christian denominations in the United States. Thev all belie\'e in the teachings of Buddha, but the\' \'ar\' greatU in creed and forms of worship. The Tundi sect peddle medicines and charms to protect against all the ills flesh is heir to, — to cure rheumatism or the cholera, to keep birds out of a rice-field, or His Satanic Majestv out of a house, — and the\' sell earth to make the muscles of the dead flexible, so that the limbs can be doubled up and placed in Population and Industry of Japan 199 i^n^ the doghouse-like coffins which the Japanese use. This sect has thousands of temples throughout the Empire. The most powerful sects are the Monto, the Jodo, and the Nichiren. The Monto teach that fervent praver, ele\ ated thoughts, and good works are the essentials, without ceasing, abstain from eating flesh, and do not permit their priests to marry. The Nichirens are noisy and intolerant, and believe that all except themselves are doomed tn eternal punishment. Their temple^ contain many deities and incarna- tions. Some cure babies and protect from all childhood's dangers ; others cure all sorts ot diseases. All on has to do, is to select the right temple and deit\', bargain with th' priest, say the prescribed prayers, and go away cured. At aloKjst every temple there is a sacred horse, some hogs, or a flock of birds. These are ted b\' the bounty ot some deceased person who has made pro\ ision tor their support, or by the taithtul, who bestow a few beans or a little corn upon the creatures in hopes of rccei\'in!r their reward for a meritorious act. There are said to be about se\'ent\' thousand Buddhist temples in Japan. The Buddhists ot Japan are kind and considerate of each other and of all creatures. They believe the spirits of the departed have entered into some created torm, to serve tJuijiiiiisr Pkihst, Japan. 200 An American Cruiser in the East during the piobationarv period, and therefore they treat all creatures kindl\' for fear of oppressing some spirit. They are energetic and pushing. They pubhsh many religious articles in the newspapers, and a nio\'ement is being made tor the foundation ot a Buddhist theological course in the Imperial Uni\ersitv. Some advanced thinkers are hoping to make it the state religion, while others are formulating I .\ PAN' i:sE Wood-Carvi .\G. .4 Detail of the Tem/'le, Shelm, near Tokio, Japan. creeds for the union of Christianity, Shintoism, and Buddhi>m, retaining what the\' believe to be the best fea- tures of each, and tormintr a trrand relitrion tor all men. Manv Buddhists, in Japan, believe that Nir\'ai)a does not mean a state (it total spiritual annihilation, but the annihi- lation of all that is bad and the continuance (jf all that is g(jod in man. Manv of these Japanese temples have been erected by men and women who became enthusiastic and gave their labor. Carpenters, masons, carvers, lacquerers, and laborers C(jme from all parts of the Empire, and work for a certain Population and Industry of Japan 201 number of days without compensation. Rich men con- tribute the materials, and women do the hauling and lifting. They e\'en cut the hair from their heads and braid it into ropes with which to pull and hoist the great stones and beams. It is said that two hundred thousand women and voung girls cut oft' their tresses and made them into the ropes which are used for the hauling about the temple ot Higashi Hongwauji, now being erected at Kyoto, yet this magnificent pile will cost more than eight millions of dollars before its completion. Some of these temples ha\x \er\' large incomes, and almost any of them can raise from one hundred thousand to half a million dollars a year. Class Distinctions in Japan The Tokio Historical Society has made exhausti\'e re- searches from which the following extracts are taken. "Until the year 470 a. d., all persons not elevated by official employment, nor degraded temporarily as criminals, were equal before the law. In that year, a man named Ne-no-omi rebelled against the Emperor Yuryaku. Ne-no- omi was killed, but the Emperor decreed that all the descendants of this man should be regarded as inferior per- sons and be reduced to ser\'itude of a menial kind. They were divided into two parties, one being detailed to ser\e the Emperor, and the other a provincial governor." " In 486 A. D., Karabukmo-no-Sukune rebelled, and when captured the Emperor ordered that he and his descendants should look after the Imperial tombs." "In 693 A. D., the E^mperor |ito decreed that if a man was unable to pay a debt, and it the sale ot his property did not realize sufficient money to meet the obligation, he should become the slave of his creditor." "Down to this time (693 a. d.) all foreigners who came into the country were classed amongst the seiii?iiin. 202 An American Cruiser in the East inferior people, and unless redeemed bv relati\"es or friends, were sla\es tor lite. The Emperor ]ito changed this law, and decreed that toreiLiners should he classed amongst the rx:.!/!!!!, superior people, and be exempt trom serxitude. For se\eral hundred \ears the distinction between the two classes was \"er\" great, but under the Kamakura and Ashikasa Shoguns it was almo^t obliterated." ''In 701 A. D., the 'Yaiho' laws were published, and scmmm^ or interior people, were classified as t'ollows ; ( I ) rv;^5, euards ot the Imperial tombs ; (2) kivduko^ o;o\"ern- ment sla\"es ; (31 kciiui^ domestic sla\ es ; (4) io/ziil:!, sla\ es ot oiiicials ; (5) shniiih!^ sla\es ot private individuals. '" " The first two classes were householders and consisted ot rebels or their descendants. The work of ffuardint; the Imperial tombs was regarded in those da\"s as discjraceful emplo\"ment, as all work connected with the dead was con- sidered to defile. The slaves of classes 2 and 4 had precedence ot all others, as it was not considered degrading Population and Industry of Japan 203 to work about culti\ated people, even in the capacity ot sla\es. The sla\'es in class 2 were mostlv rebels, but they u'ere o\'er sixty years of age. Those ot class 3 were too poor or helpless to become householders or to take care ot themsehes, generally poor relations, and were compelled to ser\-e the persons upon whom they depended tor their support." " Of course, there was a certain disgrace attached to this loss of freedom, but it was preferable to many other forms of ser\itude. In all classes except 3 it was punishment tor crime or \'iolation of law. In class 3 it fixed the mutual obligation of master and ser\"ant, between persons who were charged with the support and care of others who yyere un- able to care for themselyes, and in this connection we must remember that institutions for the care of the poor were unknown. Classes 4 and 5 were composed of prisoners taken in war and criminals and their descendants. Class 5 furnished sla\'es for the market, as it was strictly forbidden to sell a member of the other four classes." " Men and women of class 5 were bought and sold, and their personal liberty depended upon the disposition of their owners. But the lapanese ha\-e always been a kind-hearted people, and the hardships to which their sla\'es \yere sub- jected were no more than always exists between master and ser\'ant." " Sla\es were forbidden to rnarr^' with the other people, and the slaxes of one class were prohibited from marrying the sla\'es of another class. The punishment for a x'iolation ot this layy was fittv stripes and annulment of the marriage. The sla\-es who guarded the Imperial tombs vyere under the control of the Imperial Household officials." "Before 691 a. d., the sale of people belonging to the r\omin^ox superior class, was common, but the Emperor jito issued a decree in that year specifying the cases in which the sale of persons should in^'ol\'e degradation in social rank, 204 -^^ American Cruiser in the East If a peasant was sold for the benefit of his elder brother, he was not degraded, but if he was sold for the benefit of his parents, he was degraded, and a person sold to discharge a debt did not lose his rank as ryornin. In the case of traffic in slaves, a written bargain had to be prepared and submitted to the authorities for approval." Japanese Tramps. "A curious document bearing on the sale and prices paid tor slaves in Japan was recently discovered. It gives an account of the sale of certain persons in Mino. There were three males and three females. They realized a total of 4,900 bundles of rice-plants. The ages of the three males were 34, 22, and 15 years, respectively. The two elder slaves brought 1,000 bundles each, and the younger goo. The ages of the females were 22, 20, and 15 years, respectively. The two elder ones realized 800 plants each, and the younger one 600. Various marks of identity are described, such as red spots on the left cheek, freckles, etc." "• If they became sick within three days after the sale. Population and Industry of Japan 205 the sale was null and \ old. In case ot runaways it was cus- tomary to pay a reward amounting to five per cent of the value of the sla\e, if he or she were captured within one month, and ot ten per cent when a year had elapsed between the runawa\- and capture." " Sla\es might become free and enter the r\omln^ or superior class, under certain conditions : in case of persons who had been stolen and reduced to sla\erv illegally ; when a master died without an heir and his house become extinct ; when gi\en their freedom by their master. Official sla\ es became free when reaching 76 \'ears of age, or too ill to work. Freedom was often obtained after a few \ ears' ser- \ice bv those who had been reduced on account of their association with rebels, but not owing to any prominent part they had taken in opposing the go\'ernment. Slaves occasionally obtained their freedom by displaying great pro- ficiencv in some art or accomplishment, and were some- times released bv the will of the sovereign. In such cases there was usually some special object in view, such as the encouragement of agriculture." " There are no reliable statistics, and it is not known exactly how many slaves there were at any gi\'en time. But it is believed that they amounted to about fi\'e per cent of the whole population, and that the number of female slaves was slightly in excess ot the males." " The early Tokugawa Shoguns were much given to social classifications. They not onl\ rc\ i\ed the old dis- tinctions between >-yo>nin and it'iiimni^ which had nearly died out, but also divided the latter into a number of minor classes. At no time in the histor\' of Japan was the list of persons officialh' designated uminui so large." It was ; ( I ) " Chori^ originally the name given to the head of Eta^ but in later days used as a synonym of Eta. (2) Eta. (3) Hintn., an outcast, one who is too low to be regarded as human ; originally applied to criminals, now 2o6 An American Cruiser in the East extended to beggars. (4) }'iu/iti/>iiii, mountain-keepers. (5) Kaicara-niotio, beggars who arc required to bin-\- crim- inals. (6) C)rdinar\ beggars. [j ) Sl?ikii, persons who dance before shrines. (8) Miko^ a witch, one who tries to appease angrx- spirits. (Q) liLuinai^ a male dancer who uses no music. (10) Gounin^ a mendicant triar. (11) Sodekoi^ a class of mendicant priests, who wear long-slee\'ed koromo and beg with a wooden boud, — " slee\'e beggars." (12) Omho^ persons emplo\"ed in the burning ot bodies. [vi^] X'ing\o-tiuka'i^ puppet showmen. ( 14) Actors. (15) Brothel-keepers. (16) Zato^ blind shampooers. (17) Saru- gaku Xo^ performers. (18) O'/r^.i/'/', di\iners. (iq) Plas- terers. (20) Makers ot earthenware. (21) [inoiiih'i^ moulders. (22) 1 suji-iutkura^ wa\"sidc blind beggars. (23) Saru-hiki^ men who exhibit monkcvs. (24) Hachi- tatak'i^ priests who obtain monc\- b\" beating a metal bowl and reciting passages of scripture. { 25 ) Stone-cutters. (26) Umbrella-menders. (27) Ferry boatmen. (28) D\"ers. (29) Teuhotati\ the keepers ot archerv grounds. (30) Pen- makers. (31) Ink-makers. (32) Scki-inori^ barrier (guards. (33) Bell-ringers. (34) Shishi-mai, persons who dance with masks for the amusement of children. (35) Makers of rain-coats. ( i^b) Keepers ot bath-hduses. ( 57) \\'atchmen. (38) Alikaiva niausi'ii^ beggars who acted as mummers at the New Year. ( 39 ) Jugglers. (40 ) }'<7.f/'/, showmen. (41) Inn iiuTLcashi^ protessional do2;-trainers. (42) Hiumihikd^ storv-tellers. (43) Serpent-charmers. (44) Nnzo toki^ expounder ot eniijmas. (45) Chikdmiiiochi^ professional athletes. (46) Ko'^o >nikc\ persons who crawl through a nar- row basket \vithout being hurt by the drawn sword attached to It. (47) hitsii)u:-tiukai^ trainers of foxes." Why some ot these occupations were deemed isnomin- ious, and wh\- some were not so classed, is unknown, but it is certain that e\-er\- irregular method of obtainino; a In-eli- hood was considered a decradation. Be2:c:ino; was abhorred, Population and Industry of Japan 207 All connection with dead bodies was supposed to defile. Even pen-makers, who used the hair of deer, and ink- makers, who used the bones of horses and cows for harden- ing their ink, were condemned. Occupations were often considered ignominious on accoimt of their associations; A Coolie. archery grounds were often used as meeting places of loose character, hence they were despised. During the time of the earlv Tokugawa Shoguns, the control of sejnmin of all classes was intrusted to Dauzae- mon and Kurnma Zeushichi. The powers with which 2o8 An American Cruiser in the East these two men were endowed enabled them to establish a kind of judicial go\-ernment. Ail the misdemeanors of seminin were dealt with by these chiefs, as the Shoguns con- sidered it beneath the dignity of ordinary court officials ex'en to pass judgment on the outcasts of society. The reign of the Dauzaemon famih" o\'er the Eta and other classes of outcasts dates from the time of the Kamakura Shoguns. During the reigns of the late Tokugawa Shoguns, the classes of persons included among senimin were gradually diminished, until, at the commencement of the Meji, — the present era, — the government was memorialized on the sub- ject, and as a result e\en the Eta and Hinin were placed on an equality with their tellow-men. The Japanese have ne\ er taken kindly to class distinctions, and I cannot show these facts more forcibly than has been done in the preced- ing historical sketch, and in the following from the "Japan Dailv Mail : " " In no country do a man's circumstances count for so little, provided his personal character merits esteem. A nobleman's carriage standing in front of the humble home of a highly xalued friend of its owner is a sight no less common than significant, and is an abundant proof that the assumption of our modern wealth-worshipping world, and all the senseless minor class distinctions of fash- ionable society, are adjuncts of a civilization which in many of its characteristics is infinitely iiiferior to that which Japan, sitting at the feet ot Jiaturc, has succeeded in developing." Japanese Art The Japanese ha\e been artists, and have gi\'en their imagination full pla\' from the earliest ages of their history. Their manners, customs, and diess are a-sthetic, and their houses, lacquers, bronzes, porcelains, and household uten- sils, — in fact, almost exxrything they own or make, from the hut to the temple, from the bow of a coolie to the swfjrd of the Damio, — are artistic. Population and Industry of Japan 209 MAKixt; Umbrellas in Japan. There are no Cupids, no Venuses, and no Apollo Belve- deres, but there are elegant forms, and shapes in every material worked by man. There are dragons, monsters, landscapes, and flowers, and many nameless forms that are elegant products ot the imagination. The Japanese are a nation ot artists in conception and finish, and the whole people are appreciative ot art, to the extent, at least, ot good taste and term. Their art and architecture are diiFerent in style from those we know in Europe and America, and must not be measured and criticised by the old rules and standards. As our fathers raised the tree-trunks, placed lintels across them, and fitted a root over all, ornamenting and decorat- ing them until thev developed into the various orders, simple and complex, that we know in Europe and America, so the Japanese have advanced from the cave and tent to the hut., and have developed this until it has expanded into the gor- 14 21 o An American Cruiser in the East geous splendors of the temples at Nicka, Sheba, Uyeno, and other places, at which artists, architects, and cultured men and women from all lands marvel and wonder. The Shoguns were patrons of art ; and there can be no doubt that the seclusion of Japan from foreign intercourse kept that art in pure channels, and caused artists to work for art's sake alone, by curtailing the demand for the rapid reproduction of their work tor commercial purposes. The elegant simplicity and taste displayed in their houses are nowhere excelled, and no people are better housed. Their dress, in design, material, and decorations, is the most artistic worn by man. As a rule, their art wares are named from the locality in which thev were made, or from some artist who made his reputation by their production. Perhaps the oldest art-workers in Japan are the wood and ivory carvers. These artists plv their sharp cutting tools, and produce the most natural, litelike repre3entati\'es of whatever design is born in their tancitul brains. This may be the ancient warrior, the boatman, wrestlers, the musume, vines, flowers, birds, or monsters, — but all are faithfully reproduced, perfect models, and works of art. Their artistic wood and metal workeis almost kept pace with each other; and specimens of the beautiful produc- tions of these old masters — specimens that are older than the Christian religion — are still to be seen. Both woods and metals are lacquered ; but that finish is usually put upon wood. One of the most important operations is that of thor- oughly seasoning the wood, which these clever people do to perfection. After this, the various pieces are fitted to- gether, and the grain ot the wood is filled in with a paste made of powdered stone. After the joints have been made, and are firmly set in place, the edges are rubbed smooth with a fine, flat stone, and the whole article is coated with a composition ot finely powdered burnt clay Population and Industry of Japan 211 and \arnish. When dr\', it is again smoothed o\-er with the stone. The article is then co\'ered with silk or tine paper, which is pasted on with great care to prevent creas- ing, and receives about h\e coatings ot the cla\' and varnish, each coat being allowed to become thoi-oughlv dr\' before the next is applied, llie surface is then made perfectly smooth h\- rubbing with stone of a \er\- fine grain, and the lacquer is laid on with a thin, flat brush ot fine hair, — • JAPANISH \\'oOLJ-Cak\'ER. human hair being preferred for this purpose. Each coat is thorouiihly dry and hard bctore the next is applied, and the final ccjat is laid on with the utmost care, with cotton-wocjl, and is almost rubbed of! u'lth fine, soft paper. When thoroughly dr\', the article is polished with deer's horn ashes, reduced to a fine powder and applied with the fintrers. So far, we ha\-e (jnl\- finished the background. The decoration, in gold, sihei', mother-of-pearl, or a \ariety of metals, is now to be added, and the metallic powders used for this purpose are numerous. 7 he com- 2 12 An American Cruiser in the East positions differ in size and shape, and are distinguished by various names, and the powders are used to produce various effects according to the knowledge and sicill of the artist. Nashiji is the decoration most frequently seen. It is made by covering the article with particles of ground gold- dust, until it resembles gold stone, and great skill is re- quired to distribute the particles evenly. This is covered with several coatings of fine transparent lacquer, often exceeding a dozen in number. This decoration dates from the fifteenth century. It is either made of pure gold-dust, gold and siher dust mixed, or of silver-dust alone. Giobu- Nashiji also dates from the same century, and has small squares of gold-leaf instead of the powdered metal. Similar work is made in mother-ot-pearl, each piece being applied separately with thin, pointed bamboo sticks. For Togi-dashi, ground and polished metals are used, and the design is laid in a thicker lacquer, and is em- phasized by a fine, white powder and then gilt, the brighter pieces being raised above those of the lower tone by means of a stiff' lacquer and gold-dust. When this has become dry, the parts which are to be gilded are covered with lacquer, and then thicklv dusted with gold ; this, when dry, is again thrice lacquered and thoroughly hardened. The surface is then rubbed until the gilt design is shown. Great care is required to avoid injury to the gilding dur- ing the various manipulations. After the design shows through the glaze, the article needs to be polished. In Hira-makiye, the design is not raised above the gen- eral surface, the design and effects being produced by shading or softening the metals, or by touching up and toning mother-of-pearl or colors, when the most beautiful effects are produced. The Tsui-shiu (red) and Tsui-koku (black) lacquers Population and Industry of Japan 213 are carved out of thick coatings of lacquer. Guri-lac is formed ot manv layers of colored lacquers, through which the designs are cut to expose the layers. Chiukiu-bori is made bv incising the design in fine lines into the body of the lacquer, with a gra\ er, and filling the hnes up with powdered gold. Some of the greatest of Japanese artists have been workers in lacquer. A list of articles ot this ware would jAfANEbE LACtjUER WarE. include entire suits of Japanese furniture used by the princes and nobles, — boxes, stands, trays, decorations for temples and houses, and hundreds of other forms. A suit of furniture includes two tauser, or stands, on which the tray and nine boxes are placed. The boxes include large ones for holding papers and books, incense and game boxes, a sloping reading-desk, and a writing-desk, picnic boxes, fan boxes, and oblong letter boxes. 214 ^^ American Cruiser in the East A letter was often placed in this box and borne to its destination by a servant. Frequently the servant's mouth was bandaged so that he could not breathe on the box, and much stress was laid on the fashion of the cord around the box, and the manner of tying it. It the recipient ot the letter was inferior to the sender, he retained the box as a memento ; but if he was an equal, he returned his answer in the box. An Inro was a necessary part of every gentleman's dress. It was made fast to a netsuke by a silken cord, and strung through his sash. It was used tor a seal box or for perfumes and medicines. ^ An Inro is made of metal, wood, crystal, bark, ivory, shells, and lacquered wood, and usually has four trays, each one fitting into another with great precision. Many of these articles in lacquer are extremely inter- esting and valuable specimens of Japanese art. Marvellous harmony of design and coloring are often combined with a minuteness of detail that causes us to wonder at their com- pleteness ; and frequently a tew rough strokes, dashes of a single color, are so graphic that a beautiful picture is produced, — a story is told. Hokusai and many others have made their names famous by their works in lacquer. In a country where civil wars and feuds were of frequent occurrence, and a stain, of any kind, upon one's good name could only be wiped out by suicide with one's own sword, the sword was brought to great perfection. Where the art instinct was universal, and jewelry for personal adornment unknown, the sword was regarded 1 Seals have been in common use in Cliina, Japan, and Korea for ages, and formerly took the place of a signature. They are made on small blocks of ivory, wood, or metal, on which is engraved the owner's seal. This is placed on a pad of vermilion ink, and stamped in one or more places on any document used. Population and Industry of japan 215 with deference, was subject to carefulK' prescribed rules of etitjuette, and was handed down as the most precious heir- loom ; it became the dearest article of personal adorn- ment. Artists manufactured and decorated the sword and la\ished their skill upon it. It is said that they at- tained such perfection in the blade that for temper it was unri\alled in the world, often performed mar\'ellous feats, and acquired SLich a thust for blood that its owner was pro- hibited from wearnisj; it. ( )riianients were la\ i>hed upon it, and these were executed in e\ ery \ ariet\ of metal, and in designs so distinct that it is extremeh difiicult to find two exactU" alike. I o wear the sword was a pri\ilege to which cjiih" the lord and his \assal, the "Samuri," were entitled. In the sixteenth centur\ the fashion of wearing two swords came in. The " kantana," about three feet Ions, was for offence and defence, and the "■ waki-zashi," about two feet long, was for the "hari-kari " (suicide). A lii;;hter sword than the " kantana," but of the same size, and called the " chisakantana," was used for dress and court purposes. In full dress, the color of the scabbard was black, with a tinije of i^reen and red. The fittintjs and mountings of these weapons are as follows : the guard, or " tsube," a flat piece of metal that is either square, circular, or o\'al in form ; a short dagger, " kokatanka," which is htted into one side of the scabbard; and the "■ kogai," a Mnaller dagger, or metal skewer, which is fitted into the opposite side of the scabbard, and is left as a card in the bod\" of an ad\'ersary killed in battle ; small ornaments, " mcnuki," placed on each side of the hilt to trn-e a u;ood grasp ; the cap, " hashi\'a," of highlv ornamented metal, and held upon the head of the hilt bv a silken cord which is passed through opposite eyes ; an o\al ring of metal, " fuchi," which encircles the base of the handle, and through the centre of which the blade passes ; the " kurikata," through 21 6 An American Cruiser in the East which the " sagcwo," or cord for holding back the slec\'es while fighting, passes; and the " kejiri," or metal end ot the scabbard. Doctors and inferior officials wore the " aikuchi," a dirk without a guard, and the " jintochi," or two-handed sword, and the " mamori," or stiletto. As a rule, the artists confined theniseU'es to particular decorations, although some artists made se\'eral parts ot the weapon, and others completed the entire sword. As famous armorers and workers in metals, the Miochiu famil\- ha\'e been celebrated since the twelfth centur\-, and they ha\ e recei\ed marks ot the hii^hest distinction trom royalty for their work. Thev made the famous eau;le that is in the South Kensington Museum, and the si.xteenth- century dragon is their work. In the fifteenth centur\- the Goto t"amd\' appeared as workers in metal, and their wi)rk has always been held in great esteem. They were attached to the Shoo;unate, and always prodticed work ot the highest qualitw The suc- cessors in the tamilv were always chosen trom those who displayed the greatest proficienc)' in the art of metal- working. In the sixteenth century, Kaneiye, Nobuiye, and Melada introduced damascening, chasing, and inla\"ing with the "tsube," and Kaneiye is considered to ha\'e been the creator of artistic swords. At the beginning of the se\'enteenth centur\-, the country entered upon an era of peace which extended o\ er a period of about two hundred and fifty years. The sword-guard was then adopted for dress purposes and tcj adorn the sword, from this time \ye sec changes in the character of the metal used, and the decoiations emplo\'ed. At Osaka, damascenings ot gold and sih-er were used in the iron. Kaneiye incrusted his work with copper, and enamels vyere introduced b\ Douin and Kinai, whose Population and Industry ot Japan 217 beautiful pierced " tsubas " pro\ oke the admiration of all who examine them. At the beginning of the eighteenth century, there were three great schools of these workers in metals, — the Nara, the ^ okova, and the Omori. The Nara school was com- posed ot a large number of artists, and was started in oppo- sition to the Gotos. The Yoko\a school joined with the Omori, and became famous for its pierced and gold "tsubas," with their battle-scenes. Teruhide was famous for his An In^'I rumen tal Coni ckt, Japan. wa\es and imitation of gold stone, and may be considered as of this school. The armor, spears, and pikes, in elegant design and work- manship, kept close behind the sw(jrd, and there are some fine specimens by famous artists in metals. The Japanese still lead the world in the perfection of their bronzes, and thev have two great schools of their beau- tiful art, the " Shakudo " and the " Shibuichi." Their dif- ference consists in the treatment ot the metals, but the designs mav be said to be similar. The metal used in the finest 21 8 An American Cruiser in the East work IS " Shakudo," — black, with an almost imperceptible shade of blue, — and is composed of ninety-five parts of copper, two to four of gold, one to one and five tenths of silver, and traces of lead, iron, and arsenic. Shibuichi is of a lighter color, bears a slight resemblance to steel, is hard, of a fine texture, and is composed of fifty to seventy parts of copper, thirty to fifty ot silver, with traces of gold and iron. The precious metals are used to produce dif- ferent effects. In the Shakudo, the gold gives the rich purple tint, or " patina," as it is called. In the Shibuichi, the silver causes the metal to assume its beautiful silver- gray tint under certain atmospheric conditions. In making these beautiful articles, the designer has the shape formed in clay, — a mere core, — whether vase or other form, after which he makes his designs for decoration. These are made of wax, and are arranged upon the model with wonderful skill as they are evolved from his fertile brain. When the article is sufficiently decorated, the whole is co\ered with clay which fills in, under, around, and over each leaf, quill, or whatever the decoration may be. This is a difficult operation, requiring great deftness and skill. When covered, a huge, ill-shapcn mass of clay is all that appears to represent the imagination, brain, and handi-work that has been expended. After the mass has become hardened, it is carefully tinned about in a fire to melt out the wax decorations that have been imprisoned within the clay, leaving the hollow spaces that correspond with leaf or flower, monster or sea. The molten bronze is poured into this hollow space. When cooled, the outer clay covering is broken awav, and the inner core dug out, leaving the beautiful form ready for the finishers. The finishers carve, touch, and retouch, and polish with chisels, hammers, files, and scrapers, producing the delicate outlines and the high polish of the finished piece. After this has been done, the article is touched with chemicals Population and Industry of Japan 219 to produce the desired tint, and the artist receives the criticisms and congratulations of his friends. Shippo ware of the Japanese, Cloisonne of the French, is the most beautiful production of potter\-. The Japanese created this fascinating ware, which is a combination of metal work and enamels, and for contour, color, and wonderful finish is without a ri\'al in porcelains. The little brown, shock-headed smith pounds the copper into shape upon the heakhorn of his rude an\il, and dove- tails the meeting edges together. He then places the \essel upon his rude little furnace ot li\'e coals, spreads o\er the flux and solder, and furiously fans the lurid, green- gold flame that melts the solder and brazes the \'essel. Satisfied with the perfection of this work, he removes the blackened article, and again hammers it to a finish upon the rude little an\ il. The designer now takes the article, — vase, plaque, or whate\er form it mav be, — and outlines the thousand delicate and intricate designs that are to be deline- ated upon the rough metal forms. A second artist in metals now clips siher and brass wire into tinv pieces, and bends and fits them into the many shapes required bv the design. These almost microscopic curves, elbows, angles, and circles are cemented over the outlines made hv the designer, and stand up from the body of the article like filigree work. When the outlines are all laid on in cement, the article is taken once more to the furnace, and the wires are fused, thus securely fastening the outlines to the bod\', and making it one complete thing. If the work was now polished, it would be a beautiful work in filigree; but the article is passed to an artist who is skilled in the nnstery of enamels, who fills in the multitudinous little cre\ices between the wires with beautiful colors. After another firing the article is handed over to the 220 An American Cruiser in the East polisher, who poHshes the rough surface. Gradually the rough surface disappears, here and there a smooth place appears, until finally — it may be after hours or da\'s of polishing — the article is seen in all its perfection of design and colors, reds, yellows, greens, and browns encased in tiny threads of gilt and silver, — a thing of beauty and a joy forever, It is said that from the earliest ages in their history whenever a Japanese died, his wife and one or more ser- vants committed suicide, and the remains ot all were interred together, so that he might have company and consolation upon his long journey in the land ot spirits. In the year 2 b. c, the Mikado Suinin issued an edict abolishing the cruel rite, but the old fashion was persisted in. Nomi-no-Sukune, an officer of the court, devised some clay images, and succeeded in having them interred with the remains of the Empress who died in the year 3 A. D. This set the fashion, and Japanese ceramic art was born. From this time, images superseded the cruel suicides, and artists sprang up, each endea\'oring to make his images the truest to nature. The originator, Nomi- no-Sukune, was decorated Hoji, or clay-image-artist, and Japanese art branched out in new directions. The Satsuma is recognized as the " Royal porcelain of Japan." It is ot creamy color, and has a peculiar crackle finish. It is made bv most skilful potters, and is deco- rated in beautiful designs with colors and golds. The decorations are outlined in black, after which bright pig- ments and pure gold are beautitully worked in. About the year 1600, the Prince of Satsuma invaded Korea, and while there became interested in pottery. He induced a few potters to settle in his domain, and they became the originators of this beautiful ware, under the patronage of the Prince. This ware was never offered for sale, but was Population and Industry of Japan 2 21 brought to the highest degree of perfection attainable, and was presented, as a special gift, to \vhome\cr the Prince chose to honor. f\ir nian\- \-ears it was only used by the Alikado and nobles. The Korean potters intermarried with the Japanese, and their descendants are still working this Satsuma clav-bank, and producmt; the ro\"al ware in cream, crackle, and gold. Japanese Artists decorating Porcelain. In 1670, a disciple ot the famous decorator Tauvu decorated some pieces ot coloix-d enamel faience for the Prince of Taugen. The designs were more elaborate than the customar\- decorations of this ware, and the few pieces that remain, known as the " Satsuma-Taugen," are among the rarest specimens of old Japanese pottery. Thev are cream crackle dcccjrated with brown figures, and are of the Kano school. Satsuma v\'are lost ta\'or in the seventeenth century ; but the celebrated decorators, Kuwabara and his kin, produced 222 An American Cruiser in the East a hard, close-grained ware. Thev adhered to the cream- color with finely crackled glaze, and their paste was as dense as ivory. Thev decorated in enamelled diaper and dragons and ilo\vers ; and Satsuma regained its old place. In 1785, it was further improved bv Yanasuke, an artist ot gieat fame, and the ware ot his time is considered to be the finest e\'er made. Modern Satsuma, made smce the \isit of Commodore Peny, is decorated in Kyoto for the foreign markets ; and while it is beautiful, with decorations ot saints, warriors, and deities, it does not compare with ancient products of the kiln of the Prince of Satsuma. There are thousands of specimens of modern Satsuma, but there is nothing more rare than a piece of the old ware. It is well to note, in search- ing tor the old ware, its extreme solidity, its graceful and restrained decoration, its ivorv-like surface, the sharp, hard edges, the perfection ot gilding, the accurate outlines of its enamels, and the brillianc\' ot its delicate coloring. The Hizen ware is fine, and beautiful, and gorgeous in decoration. Great quantities ot it found its way to Eiu'ope through the Dutch intercourse, but it was considered second and third rate ware in Japan. The shapes were not Japanese, but were made to suit the taste of the pur- chasers. Huge \ ases and bowls and the \aried sizes of plates were not in accordance with the artistic taste of old Japan. The finest wares were made in the kilns of the princes, where the best manipulators and decorators were employed, and products of these kilns were bestowed as princely gifts. The choicest works of blue and white and of Kakiyemon and Keuzan v\'ere rarely seen outside of Japan until within the last twenty years. In 1530, Shousui ot Ise learned in China the process of decorating porcelain with blue. He returned to Arita in Hizen, bringing with him a small store of raw mate- rial, which he worked up into small articles, and he Population and Industry of Japan 223 became tamoiis as the father of Japanese porcelain. Goro- hachi and Gorohichi followed in his lead, and carried on the work until the material was exhausted and the manu- facture ceased. About 1608, Naboshima brought Risanpei, a Korean potter, to Arita, where he found the feldspar which was suitable tor the manufacture of porcelain. Blue-and-white porcelain was made, but it was about fifty years before the disco\-er\' ot the art ot using \itrifiable enamels, which require a second firing o\'er the glaze, at low temperatures. Porcelain, in Japan, was first decorated o\er the glaze about 1650. This process was introduced bv Takuzaye- mon, who learned it in China. Takuzavemon was neither potter nor artist ; but Kakivemon, a good potter and a bold artist, learned the secrets from his friend, struck out in new directions, and produced decorations in colored enam- els which created a new school in Japanese porcelains. He attained a degree of perfection, both in material and style, that ha\e ne\er been surpassed. His ware has a fine, hard, white base, and gi\-es a clear, bell-like sound. It is decorated with bamboo and plum blossoms, or with corn shea\'es and flowers, and sometimes with fluttering birds. At Imari, bluc-and-whitc decorations under the glaze, at a single firing, are still produced, and some specimens ri\al the finest work of the Chinese. Kameyarna and Hirado kilns produced beautiful blue- and-white porcelain in the eighteenth centurw Mikawa-uchi ware vyas presented hv the Prince of Hirado to the Sh(jgun and his private friends. The paste was finely powdered, strained, and bleached, while the glazes were delicately prepared. l"he white is clear and the blue is soft, \'erv different from the intense blue of the old Chinese ware. The delicacy of the design, execution, and perfection of the firing, are not approached by any porcelains in the world. 2 24 ^'^ American Cruiser in the East Kutana ware, another celebrated porcelain, originated with Saijiro at Kutana in the pro\ince ot Koga. In 1658, the Prince of Koija sent Saijiro to Hizen to stud\- the art. Soon after his return to Kutana, he disco\"ered a clay from which was produced the exquisite decorations ni red, s;:;reen, \ellow, \ iolet, siKer, and gold, which made the ware famous. After the death of Saijuo, the ware soon lost its reputation, as his pupils could not maintain the master's st\le or tinish. l\iwards the end of the se\'enteenth centLn'\-, .Morikagc- took charge ot the work at Koi;a. He introduced freedom and boldness in desisjn, and soon made the ware tamous. His products \ ar\" in subject, and are in rare tints ot green, yellow, and \ iolet. After AKirikage's death, the potter\- ao;ain deteriorated in quality, and the base became dark, almost black. In 1S14, the process ot decoration in red was redis- co\ered b\" "'I oshida\ a, who protluced beautitul \yares in that color and gold. These soon became tamous, and bear the artist's name. In 18 78, Zingoro produced a more brilliant porcelain by substituting golil-leat tor the po\yder, and using cleaner color. Seto, in the pro\iiice ot C)\yaii, produced commercial potter\- tor se\ eral centuries, but it was not until 1801 that Tamekichi commenced to make porcelain. 1 he products ot these potteric> are beautiful, and nia\" be seen all o\-er the Empire. .\ beautiful ware in delicate blue and white is produced at Ki\o\\'ezer, near K^"oto. It ma\ be recognized b\" its coarse paste and its dark-blue decoration. The Japanese dexoted their cjenius as artists to faience, into which the\- introdLiced the most subtle and surprising effects hv delicate shades ot color, and quaint forms. Their lo\e tor artistic potter\- dates back to the ninth cen- tury, since which time their amateurs ha\ e cherished the richl)' glazed Seiji ware, which was copied from, and Population and Industry of Japan 225 excelled, the Chinese work. The early Shigarakl ware is rough, is skilfully made, and has a beautiful glaze ; the Soma ware has an impressed horse ; the Takatori v\-are has a brieht lustre. Other xarieties are the old Banko and o Higo wares, the Yatsushuia, and the Kiuezan, with its rich raised blue enamels, the Oribe, with mottle glaze, and the old lube or Bizen ware, with its reddish-brown glaze, one of the oldest Japanese wares, dating back tuUy fi\-e hundred years. Kakivemon, Niusei, and Keuzan are the three celebrated names in the histor\' of Japanese porcelains. They flour- ished between the years 1624 and 1652, and during these years Japanese decorative, ceramic art \yas at its height. Niusei \yorked at Kyoto, and his products were the cream- colored wares ot "■ Avvata." T he ware is made ot a hard paste, has a yery fine, uniform crackle, and is enamelled on a buff groLLnd, with floral decorations in green and blue tints heightened with gold. This work laid the foundation for a great school in faience which has come down to our times. Kyoto was filled with potteries xs'hich followed the style of Niusei, but these products do not equal his in glaze, crackle, or enamels. Kirko-Zau, who was a follower of Niusei, in the next century, brought the Awata products to great perfection, and introduced a raised, dark-purple enamel in relief. The work of this artist is fine, with uniform crackle ; clear and finished in design and execution, while the Avvata ware of the present day is thin, cold, and dr\- in glaze, and the enamels are not so perfect. Keuzan was no less famous than Niusei. He was a bold, dashing painter, and originated a new style of free- hand decorations in birds, flowers, grasses, and delicate landscapes. He flouiished between the years 1663 and 1743, and his style still influences all the Japanese, Euro- pean, and American decorative pottery. Free-hand floral '5 2 26 An American Cruiser in the East decoration on china was not known before his time. Keu- zan was a poet as well as an a^:i^t, and he did not hesitate to indite \erses upon his landscapes. His work has the rouixh boldness of a masterful artist, a leader, not a follower in stvle ; and his productions are amonest the rarest and most precious product? or the Japanese kilns. In writing of thi> Japan, where e\er\thin2: is so artistic and beautitul, I could not persuade niNself to netrlect the introduction of these tew lines on its leading: art works, — works which ha\"e had great influence o\"er the li\ es and happiness ot its people, and neces?aril) modiU" their inter- course with the outjide world. A Chinese Caut. CHAPTER XII A TRIP TO THE NORTHWESTWARD AT about halt-past six on an o\'ercast nuirnint; in AIa\, which was Sunday, we left oiu' anchorage and stood out of the harbor of H\ ogo, Japan, bound for Chefoo, China. As we passed the flagship we ga\ c the "■ flag " a steaming salute, having the marines drawn up in line, at a present arms, on the poop deck, ajul dipping the ensit^n. Our course was througii the beautiful Inland Sea of Japan as tar as the Straits of Shimonoscki, then heading to the northward and westward, across the Yellow Sea to Chefoo on the Shantung promontory. Wf had not gone \ery far on our way, perhaps twenty miles or so, when the weather became thick and foggv. We kept on blowing our steam- whistle at inter\als, and steaming along at a slow rate of speed. At about nine o'clock there was a bump, and we soon realized that the old ship had struck a sand beach which 228 An American Cruiser in the East had not respect enough tor us to keep out of the way. We were soon surrounded by nati\es in sampans, who were attracted by the no\'elt)' of seeing a great ship so near their little \'illao;e. On in\'estigation, we tound ourselves to be in front of the \'illage of Akashi, Japan. After some good hard backing of the engines, the ship was gotten out of the sand into deep water, when the anchor was let go and we remained until about noon ; when, as the weather had cleared somewhat, the anchor was raised and another start made. We ran along until darkness set in, when we anchored for the night. After all was quiet about the ship, and " Jacky " was snugly stowed in his " dream-bag," lost to the world, perhaps dreaming of his home and loved ones, the ship's bell rang out the alarm for fire, which soon brought all ot us to our feet. Hammocks were quietly triced up and stowed, and all hands were at their places for fire quarters. We soon discovered that it was only a drill. It is always a relief to know that there is no actual fire, for there is no more tr\ ing position than that upon a burning ship at sea. After running out the hose and starting the pumps, the retreat was sounded. When e\'er\'thing had been secured, the crew wejit off' to whisper about the " old man," and once more to try the soft side of a mattress ; but these whisperings were short-lived, as in a few minutes the rattle was sounded for " general quarters." Hammocks were again made up and stowed ; lights were put out in a very unceremonious manner; the magazine was opened, and powder and sliell were passed upon the deck; while the great guns were "cast loose" and loaded. Two rounds were fired fioni each aun, when "secure" and "retreat" sounded, and e\'er\- one repaired to his " downy couch " and endeavoied to make up the lost sleep. Early the next morning the anchor was raised, and we picked our way among the islands. On the second day we passed through the interesting Straits of A Trip to the Northwestward 229 Shimonoseki, where the gallant McDougal forced his way in the "\\'yoniing," in 1863; not without a hot fight, tor the Japanese were well prepared for him, and bra\ely contested his passage inch bv inch, but the bra\ e Yankee skipper won the fight ; and the " Wyoming " passed into the Inland Sea. Later, the Japanese go\ernment paid a hea\'y indemnity for the benefit of the families of the killed and wounded in this afi^air ; but still later, this sum, together with the accu- mulated interest, was returned to the Japanese, who appro- priated the whole amount to the erection ot the breakwater at ^ okohama, which protects shippint; in that harbor from the efi^ects ot t\ phoons that sometimes sweep up the Bay of Yeddo. The Straits ot Shimonoseki are well sur\e\ed and marked h\ beacons, lights, and bearings ; but as the tide runs \erv strong, and there are whirlpools and eddies, it is safest to go through at a good rate of speed and in the daylight. The surrounding hills are well fortified, and they are still being terraced and strengthened. There is a strong garrison stationed on the hills, abo\'e the city. Shimonoseki is not one ot the open ports, and toreign vessels do not stop here unless they are in distress. At about nine in the morning we stood to the westward ; and when the \essel was well clear of the land, the engines were stopped and the propeller was disconnected. The entire morning was de\oted to sail exercises, tacking and wearing ship; and while the men were aloft, many of them busy on the \ard-arm, a dumm\-, that had been quietly prepared, was pushed out of one of the cabin ports, and soon the cry was raised of " Man overboard ! " The men tumbled down from aloft, while the head sails were thrown aback, lifeboats mannctl and lowered, and the " dummy " was brought on board, much to the disgust of the junior watch, who had the deck and was under 230 An American Cruiser in the East the impression that it was really one of the men who had fallen o\ erboard. This ended the drill, and the \'essel was soon again steaming to the northwestward on her course. As we proceeded on our wa\., the wind freshened and the sea increased, until bv night we had about as much ot each as was wanted, — and a little more than was com- fortable, for the ship rolled and pitched to such a degree that it was \-er\- difficult to hang on, and impossible to keep on one's feet without being lashed to some fixed part of the ship. It was deemed expedient to " hea\'e to " for the night, the engines turnmg just fast enough to keep steerage-way and prevent the ship from tailing off into the trough of the sea. By daylight, the wind quieted down, and we had a smooth sea, with just breeze enough to blow the smoke away ; but the thermometer indicated 90° in the shade, with a mucky, sultry atmosphere that was an\thing but pleasant. The speed of the engines was increased to about the full, and the ship sped on at a good rate until night set in, when the weather became so thick and toggy that we could not see about the decks, and it was impossible tor the look- outs to see for any great distance from the \'essel. There was no alternati\e but to slow the engines and feel the way, keeping the steam-whistle blowing, at inter\'als, to warn the people on any other \essel in our \ icinity, while we were compelled to a\'oid se\'eral uo;l\-, jaij^ed rocks which show their horrid " tangs" abo\e the surface of the sea, like \'ery monsters guarding the approaches to fair Korea. About noon of the next day we entered the Yellow Sea, the sea which separates japan from Korea. As there are no rocks until near the coast of China, at Shantuno-, two hundred and eighty miles distant, in spite of the thick weather, we pushed the ship, and arri\-ed off Chefoo on the sixth day after leaving Kobe. A Trip to the Northwestward 231 Chefoo, China \ antai is the port to which the name ot Chefoo has been applied. As a matter of fact, Yantai is in the \icinit\ ot Chetoo, but has no connection with it. While the town was m possession ot the French troops, business men crowded there and settled about the camps under their pro- tection ; and as there was no fixed plan ot settlement, man\- ot their houses were surrounded b\- nati\ e buildings, hence thev now ha\'e disagreeable neitrhbors, and what should ha\'e been one of the pleasantest places of residence in the tar East has been marred bv the undesirable surroundings. The later toreiL;n settlement has grown up alontr the sea- shore, where tliere is a fine sand\- beach. For nnlcs beyond the town, stretches a gentb rolling country, and back of this the hills rise into mountains, and render the landscape interesting and \aried. In consequence of its wondertul climate and beautiful beach, Chetoo is the summer resort ot manv toreien resi- dents ot China. Here, as all o\ er the East, the houses occupied by foreigners are built ot sun-dried bricks, co\ered with plaster, and painted in some pleasing ct)lor. The doorways and window openings are usually trimmed with stone, and the roof is coyered with tiles. The houses are of large proportions, haye spacious \erandahs on e\'ery floor and side, are situated in commodious, well-kept gardens, and ha\e an air ot elegant comfort that is not seen else- where. As a rule, the furniture and fixtures are products of Eastern art, and are poems and marvels in woods, metals, stones, porcelains, and silks. There are six commodious churches of various Christian denominations, and a fine club-house where everything necessary for the comfort of man can be obtained. In the older settlement, and on the beach, are fine hotels. 232 An American Cruiser in the East which for appointments and comt'ort cannot be excelled in the Eastern world. There are many line shops, wheie goods that have been imported from e\ ery part ot the world can be obtained, frt)m " Murray's canned corn " to the trap- pings for a ]ad\"'s saddle-horse. My guide and I, mounted in sedan chairs, made a trip into the country and through the native city. 1 he guide, Ah-Sin, did not speak \-erv good American, and I had some difficulty in making him understand mv Chinese; but as my principal need i)i him was to point out the roads, we managed to get along fairly well. He was very patient with me; indeed, I do not remember anv creature more patient than a C(jolie, who is paid tor an afternoon's ride in a sedair chair while guiding a " foreign de\'il." On our wav to visit the native citv, we passed out of the settlement into the broad countrv, which is tra\'ersed, here and there, by little paths not more than a yard in width. Each path has a narrow ditch running parallel with one side of it, and these little paths are the highwa\s of this section. Coolies with heavy burdens upon their backs, and little Chinese ponies, laden with pro\'isions, or great timbers, or some heavy piece of machinery, were led by their masters towards the distant mountaiiis. All abtjut these paths are little gardens, where \'egetables are grown to sell to the residents of the settlement. My curiosity was aroused by the sight of gra\'e-like huts in one corner of almost every garden spot. They looked like places into which these poor people might crawl and die; but they proved to be the homes of the lonely gardeners, and near each one of them there is a little well from which they draw water to supply their thirsty plants. As it is a dry, rainless district, irrigation of the land is necessary; and this is accomplished by raising water from the wells and pouring it into little ditches, whence it runs about the land. Alany of these poor people seemed to be A Trip to the Northwestward 2^3 continualK' lifting baskettuls of water out of these holes in the ground, and potuin^ it nito these eaithen L:;iittcrs. After \ielding two and three cro])s in a )"ear, this land is still as producti\e as almost an\' well-kept garden in America. After the Japanese, tile Chinese are the finest agriculturists in the world ; the\- are patient, hard workers, and ne\'er tire of turning o\er, cleaning up, and manuring the land. The United States Consul at this place has interested himself in introducing California fruits to the farmers of the countr\-, and, bv so doin^, he has \aried the products of one class, and added to the table luxuries of the other. All about these hills, we see schools, missions, and churches, — nK.inuments to the good women and men who ha\e left their kin and friends in Christian lands to teach these people how to li\e and die, and for what to hope. Ha\'ing reached the gateway in the mud wall of the natne cit\", we were recei\'ed with much shoutinix and con- siderable bustle, of u'hich the t^uide came in tor onl\- a small share, as his rank did not count for much ; but m\" importance seemed to be increased bv haN'ino; the ser\ant with me. Ah-Sin explained the situation to the mob, and after the expenditure of some "cash," we were permitted to proceed on i^ur wav in peace. After passing through the cit\-, we found the streets and roads — narrow, crooked, unpa\'ed, and diitv — receptacles for the abominations of the place. The poor, rickety huts are made of mud, which is piled up and allowed to drv in the sunshine, after which a thatched roof of straw is placed over it. The best houses — but there are \'ery few best among; them — are built of sun-dried bi'icks, and the walls look as if in an\" excitement or crowding the\' would fall to the ground. There is not a shop in the miserable town equal to the poorest of the thousands to be found In the business portion of old Canton. 2 34 All American Cruiser in the East I he da\- was sultr\i and a [jreat maii\" natne Gentlemen of leisure were taking their siestas on the roadsides, dressed in their biithda\- clothes, as is the custom in this part of the H'orld. We could not hnd an\thing in the wretched little shops to ser\"e as a memento of" the \isit, and as a last resort we offered a price to one of the gentrv for the pipe he was smoking. He e\ identlv thought the offer too good to lose, and closed the bargain hx surrendering the pipe, which we brought oft in triumph. This section contains the most unskiltul mechanics that we ha\-e seen in the East. The boats and sampans in the harbor are clums\", rough, and hea\-v. ^Ve saw some car- penters, " wood-butchers," at work in the town, doing the \erv worst with a piece of wood that was e\'er seen, hack- ing, chopping, and botching it to such an extent that it was a pit\- the poor wood could not cr\' out in protest against the rouLfh usaee. As we passed along we saw the nati\'e process ot making bricks. Two or three coolies pour water into a hole in the ground, two or three others scatter straw o\-er the water, while others jump about in it tor the purpose ot mixing the mud and straw together. I cannot imagine why thev do not let their great tat hogs do this, unless it is because they prefer to ha\c the fun themseh'es. \^'hen sulEciently mixed, the mud is scooped up in basket-sho\'els, and carried to other men \vho place it in wooden trames (" moulds ") the size of the proposed bricks. These men press the mixture into the frames ; it is levelled up, and then placed in the sun to dr\-. No attempt is made to smooth the bricks ; on the contrary, they are roughened, we were informed, for the purpose of making them hold to the mud-mortar. We \isited the onl\- temple that we could find in the place. It is nearly in the centre of the city, a mean old structure well on the road to ruin. Some " sing-sonanding ot the lapanese ami their recep- tion by the Koreans." 'This tine picture shows Japanese disembarkinir from their vessel, while others are lamlinir on the shores of Korea, and are being received bv white-robed Koreans. The leader of the Japanese carries a copy of the treaty between the two nations. The tea-houses are ex(|uisitelv neat, and the entertain- ment at them is all that could be desired. JiSeaiitiful \ ieu's may be enjoj'cd from the verandahs, as well as from the neat little cemetery on the side of the hill. There are two hotels in tile settlement, the "Stewart House," which is conducted in the semi-foreign style b\' a Chinaman, whose name the house bears, and the Japanese hotel, "Dai Butsu." The proprietors are accommodatinLr, and it is well to know one of them before making the trip to Seoul ; either one will make all arrangements for the journey and secure accommodations at the tea-house in the capital. Jeuchuan, the sub-prefectural town, is situated about ten miles distant from the port of Chemulpo. The rising town of Mapu, on the main road to Seoul, is about seventy-five miles distant from Chemulpo, or about thirty miles from Seoul. The land forming the Japanese settlement was sold by public auction in 1884, and land sales in the general foreign settlement took place in No\cmbcr of the same \ ear. Chemulpo is governed by a Municipal Council com- A Trip to Korea 241 posed ot the toreign consuls, one Korean official, and three representatL\ es who are elected b\' the land-holders. Two foreign and one Chinese policemen, in European uniforms, do duty in the settlement, under the du-ection of the Council. The settlement has been neatU' laid out with broad roads, which, m rain\- seasons, ri\al for mud the war-time roads ot old X'irginia. The lots are all impro\ed with substantial buildings, and the roads are planted with fine shade-trees. The approaches and the ri\'er (Satee) have been sur- \eved b\- the British and Japanese, and the charts of late dates are entirely reliable. The na\igation of these waters is dangerous from the manv sandbars, washings of the ri\ ers, the h-equenc\" of sudden dense fogs, and the absence ot lii^hts and beacons. The outer anchorai^e is accessible to the largest \essels, but the holding ground is not reliable, and \'essels are liable to drag their anchors when the wind is strong on shore. The inner harbor is accessible to coasting \'essels ot litjht draught as tar up as Alapu. An o\erland telegraph trom China to this port, and con- necting Seoul and Ping-vang, is in operation. The climate of Chemulpo is healthy and similar to that of Baltimore. The foreign population is about three thousand, ot whom about twentv-fi\e hundred are Japanese. The nati\'e pop- ulation is estimated at about three thousand people, who li\e in mere huts built on the lowland marshes. Their settlement is most miserable and unsanitary, and altogether is the filthiest place in which I ha\ e e\er seen human beings crowded. If the Japanese succeed in teaching these poor people cleanly habits, they will ha\'e done a noble work for humanity. The ascent from the boat-landing into Chemulpo is by 16 242 An American Cruiser in the East an inclined road\va\- of niassi\-e granite blocks, tor about fifty rods, the road lia\ing an inclination ot about 18'. As the tide falls, it lea\"es the inclined road co\ered with mud and slime, which freijuentlv makes the ascent somewhat dani^erous and at all times filthw Landiuii here, and tra\ellini; o\'er an unkept road tuU ot hollows and hills, with no approach to straightness, does not impress one \ er\- fa\orabl\- with Chemulpo. A tramp through the nati\ e settlement should be made in old clothes for the filth, stout boots for the mud, a cigar for the smells, and a stout stick for the curs, — for all are dangerous ; but the life one sees on such a trip is \er\- interesting and well repavs for the risks taken. The roads through the settlement are about eight teet wide, broken and filthw The\" are lined on both sides bv mean little huts, one stor\-, eight b\" ten feet in height, and made of any old materials the unfortunate nati\es are able to gather. Some are made trom old dr\"-g:oods boxes, some ot mud, and a \ery tew ot sun-dried bricks plastered o\-er with mud, — an\thini; that will gi\e shelter, hold the mud plastered o\'er them, and carry the straw-thatched root intended to keep out the winter's snows and the summer's rains. The interiors ot these cabins are as filthy and unkept as the exteriors. Dogs, piss, and fowls share the "kang" and house with the family ; in fact, they are part of the famih'. Except for the flowing white robes, there are no e\'idences ot cleanness in the place. The onl\ water we could dis- coyer was in the little tubs containing the fish for sale, and in the green pools along the roadsides. E\ery cabin has a compartment called the " kang," a sort ot room, with earthen floor, under which a fire is made. Here the members of the family resort to secure warmth, and in the eyenings mats spread upon the floor form the famih^ bed. There is a shop ot some description in front of e\erv cabin, for the sale of fish, \egetables, charcoal, or notions; A Trip to Korec H3 or it ma',- be a cook:-->hop, where the \ ile^t me^■,e^ that c. er ruined the -.tfjrnath ut a human beina are eontoeted. Great roll^ ot underdone nee-flour, suimmin'i in a pool ot boihng hih-oil ; an unnamable mess of '^reen stuff, pork, and hsh made into ste\\s,and ehalks -lookini: loa\es of nee, uith shellfish and o\ sters. These shops 'J:\vt the roads the appearance ot lon'^, hlth\' bazaars, and the snowv-robed Koreans look \er\- much out ot place, as the\' crowd through the filth. I hesc cabins ha\'e yards in the rear, enclosed b\' wicker fences, made from the branches ot bushes. In some few cases attempts are made to do truek-t:ardening In raising a little green stufi and a tew cabbages, but there are no fruits or riou'ers ; indeed, I doubt if the Koreans care for flowers. AJan\' of these \ards are uncultn.ated, and contain abomi- nations of the foulest sort. How the people li\e and flourish amidst such surroundings is be\ond m\- comprehension. When one has run the J^antlet of the do'/s, tlie urchins, and the smells, and reaches the end without ha\in^ been bitten, or ditched, or ha'.in^" contracted cholera, it is a relief to roam o'.er the hills to the little fapancsc cemeter\ , and gather the beautiful wild flowers that ma\ be had tor the taking, or to sisit one of the tea-houses on the hill beyond, from whence we tretpuenth' watched the fishermen and the beach-combers gathering o\sters, crab^, and other gifts of the sea, when the tide was out. Sometimes we took pictures of tfie quaint scenes about us, pitched (pioits upon the tea-housC ','reen, listened to the mandolm-like strains of the sweet samisan, or were entertained with tales of daring and v\'ar hv a bold Korean warrior, who, when his tales were finished, politelv invited himself to partake ot our refreshments. The common people are innocent and inquisitive, child- like and bland, with no intention of beint: impertinent. They will smooth down your clothes, and inquire about ^44 -^^^ American Cruiser m the East the materials of which the\" are made; ask to see )"oiir watch, and require an explanation ot its mechanism ; and \oin- pockets must be tinned out and the contents explained. I c::a\"e one ot" these people some ^ollr drops I happened to ha\'e with me ; he thought them a species ot amber beads, "W'hen I explained to him that the\- were edible and sweet, he ran oti, but soon returned with a crowd ot slipshod females, who were all \ er\" importunate tor a supph" ot the no\ el sweets. In a short time mv little stock was exhausted, and it was mterestiiiiX to see the disappointment depicted upon their countenances, as the\' went oti empt\"- handed. I afterwards learned that these ladies looked Lipon me as a inaLiic-maii, in leaLitie with the spirits. The t.xecutixe, the Senior Watch, and I called upon the Go\eriKir to pa\" our respects. ^^'e were met at the boat-landino;, the toot ot the inclined roadwa\", b\ a China- man who was to act as our s^tiide. He had nuistered three dilapidated sedan chairs tor our use, and four coolies to act as bearers tor each chair. ^\ e were in full-dress uniform, and the '' con\ evances " seemed ridiculousK' out ot keeping with the importance ot the occasion and our i^ood clothes ; but the \dsit had been prearranged, and there was nothiiiLT to do but l:o ahead. The chairs were made of bamboo basket-work, with long poles proiectiiiL: out before and behind on each side, tor the bearers, and there was a canop\" o\ er the top to protect the rider from the weather. The Senior ^^ atch had the most dilapidated I'i^ oi the three ; and as his bearers were as inexperienced as the others, he seemed in imminent dani;er ot beiiiL: tumbled out on his head. 7"he best chair in the lot tell to me; but as my bearers had not practised enotiiih to gi\e a steady swing to the chair, the ride ^^■as \er\- imcomtortable. \\*e were accompanied all the \\-a\- b\- a rabble oi idlers who thoroughly understood and enjo\-ed our discomfiture. A Trip to Korea 245 After having been borne up the inclined landing, and through the foreign settlement and skirting one edt^e of the nati\e \illage, we started up a \ery steep hill, which put our stabilitv to the test, but we reached the palace entrance in safetv, and were thankful, 'llic great outer doors of the palace courtvard were opened with much ceremony. Some twenty officials came out to meet us, and there was a great deal of bowing, chui-chin-nig, and good American A Dllegatiox of Koreans \'isrT the " Alert.' handshaking, as we dismounted from our rickety old bamboo cages. As soon as we pulled ourselves together, as it were, we were escorted through the courtvard, up a flight of broad steps, and into the audience-chamber. His Excellency and suite, in their official robes, were already present to receive us. We did not need a special presentation, as we had entertained the Governor on our vessel ; and he reached out to greet us — more in American than Korean fashion — as soon as we entered the room. 246 An American Cruiser in the East After more greetmi^s and haiulshakings, we were all seated, and enio\-ed a pleasant chat with the Go\'ernor and the other Korean gentlemen present. PresentU' cigars were ser\'ed, the scr\'ant cutting oH" the ends and lighting them for iis. Later, wme and cake were brought in, all the while the con\ ersati(.>n flowmg on in pleasant channels. W'e inquired after the health ot His Majesty the King, and expressed the hope that it might he a thousand \-ears before he would be called upon to ascend on hin;h to ride the celestial dragon, ^^'hen we took oiu' lea\-e, we were escorted to our chalis, the Go\'ernor in- sistinii; upon seeino; us to the outer gate, and again shaking our hands. The audience-room, in which we had been receu'cd, was about thirty feet long and twent\"-fi\e broad, with a \-er\- high ceiling. It was fitted in the Ein'opean fashion with a handsome \el\ et carpet, made near Boston. I^ace cur- tains, with hea\'y silk trimmings at the windov\'s, a hand- some mahogany table, placed lengthwise ot the centre of the room, and chaii's to match, made it a beautiful atidience- room. When we entered the room the Go\ernor stood near its centre. He was clad in a long r(.)be ot dull blue silk, with square breast-and-back pieces embroidered with birds ot gav plumage. He wtjre the ear-hat of the Korean noble, with a long strand ot hea\-y amber beads, like a chin-strap, but reaching down upon his breast, and his shoes were of embroidered silk with pointed toes. When we reached the native village on our way back to the landing, our attention was attracted by wailing sounds from some one apparently in deep distress. We dismounted from our chairs and hunted tor the cause of these outcries, which we soon found to come from a professional mourner, who, in shrill, high-pitched tones of voice, was announcing; the \irtues of the deceased person 1} ing before her. These A Trip to Korea 247 poor professionals come from the lower walks of life and are generally objects of pit\ . Thcv cultivate the funereal expression and the loud, shrill voice that adds horror to the otherwise dismal surroundings, and inspire feelings that make the '' Westerner " wish he were as far away as pos- KORE-W ^loURXIXG CMSTUMIi. sible. Of course, these professional mourners, like stone- cutters with epitaphs, add \irtae to \irtuc tor the fee, and deem the tacts of the case to be no concern of theirs. We learned, through our guide, that the deceased was the father of a numerous tamilv, and had been a \'erv worthy blacksmith's helper, who was cut off in the flower of his manhood. His good deeds and \irtues, as narrated by the 24!^ An American Cruiser in the East nioumci, were ininiiiK-ral)k' ; and :is soon as llic family ceased to pay fi>i" tlie niDiniiiiii^, tlie liineial would take place. W^heii a Kcirea/i dies, Ins hody is prepaicd tor mteinient much akiT the hishioii in China. Placed in a strong, hea\'y woiiden hux thaL has moie or It-ss oinameiU upun u, he is pi'iifessionally muuined tor as lon^ as family and (iriuIs can afford to pay for that sci"\ ice ; and when all is ready, the l)o\ IS home to the ij;ra\c by heareis, preceded hy the professional mourners, who contort and howd in proportion to tlieir pa\'. The relatnes and friends follow, dressed in hrownish-white rohes, the males wearin;^ immense, coal- scuttle-like hats of the same color, and ha\'inii; a loiij^; staff" of nalural-colored wood in hand. When the ^nave is riached, the hox is lowered inlo the prepared place, or in some cases is placed upon the surface of the ground, and earth is piled around and over it. The term of mourning Is three years. .Atler this slight of dislress and misery wc made anolher start (or the \'essel. When I had remo\'ed my ( amera from under the seat of iin' chair and was preparinjj; to takt- a \'iew of the pc;or little shops in the iiatne villain-, a L;;reat crowd, hut a good- natured one, gathered about us, ohstructing the \ iew. We soon learned that the people were all anxious to appear in the picture, — not that they mighl e\-er see it themselves, lint they were anxious to he Mleiilided wilh llieii- \'illage. Wliat ho\cls and huts for a |)eo|ile id he proud of, and with which to wish to lie ideiUlli<' aiul rests until the time tor the audience. He is next conducted across a hand- some cc'urt and up a flight ot' stone >teps, w Inch are guarded b\ nias>i\ e stone doi^s, car\ed b\ Koiean artists. He finds himself in a lar^^e, open hall, with a massi\e tiled roof, sup- ported b\ numerous scarlet columns. 1 he floor is of h.md- siMiie, inlaid woods. .K beautiful kiirean screen stands at the opposite side of the room where the King recei\es. ^^ hen the Klin-j; LTiants an audience, he recen es in a scarlet robe, embroidered with ^old medallions on the breast aiul b.ick, aiul iwi each shoulder. He wears a hea\ \ iewelled belt about his waist, and a blue, wiul^Icss hat upon his head. No one can pa>s in front of him, and ser\ ants hold up his arms as he nunes about. .All nui>t prostrate them- sel\ es 111 Ills piesence. He begins his da\ at ti\e o'clock in the atternoon, and retires at about eit^ht m the morning::. Little two-stor\ storehouses ha\e been constructed, about the " Hell roads," in such f.isliion th.it the shops undei" them open into court\ai\ls instead of into the streets. Whenexer the Kiiil:: makes .1 "progress," these little houses are torn .iwxu . 1 his pageant is .1 ceremoiu' ot \er\ unusual occurrence, and its details .ire said to li.ne been unehan^ed tor hundreds of \ears. l.ittle wooden shanties, that ser\ e as workshops and for business pur- poses, lia\ e been erected in front of almost e\er\ house, not onl\- reduciiii: the width of the streets, but i:i\ iiiLr them a squalid appearance. Seoul, the Capital of Korea 21^5 The city is \ery diitv, piles of filth being allowed to accumulate; and the open ditches, on each side of the roads, are often choked up with refuse. The shops are mean, and it is difficidt to find fanc\- anicles ot Korean make. The best way to obtain curiosi- ties is to let )-our wants be known as soon after \()ur arrival as possible, name a place and date where you can .-^•^^ Gate \ A^ y Tin. Ki.\<,'s Palace. Seoul, K(;ioi.\. be seen, and \'ou wdl be waited upon by merchants who deal in such wares. Pans, antique metal-v\'ork, Korean coins and mats can be obtained in this wa\ . I'he prices will be high, as the articles are rare and the owners not anxious to part v\'ith them. One of the sights outside of the cit\- gate is the exer- cise of the Ro\al troops. The\' are tinitormed in blue coats, plum-colored trousers, black fur hats with bright 256 An American Cruiser in the East yellow tassels, and their feet are encased in half-high boots. They are armed with modern rifles, and are a stalwart, fine-looking body of men. Their movements are credit- able, and they have the free, easy carriage ot the volunteer rather than the stiffness of the regular. They are trained by two Americans who served in the Civil War and now hold commissions under the Korean government. The courage and endurance ot the Koreans has often been tested, and there is no doubt that they will give a good account ot themsch'es m case ot need ; but it must be remembered that the whole army numbers only twenty-five himdrcd men. Street life in Seoul is picturcs(|ue and novel, and no city in the world equals it tor quaintncss. The gateways in the city wall, the palace gates, and the marble pagoda are worth seeing as the work of this interesting people. Out- side the city walls, to the northwest, the immense bowlder image ot Buddha stands boldlv torth m its granite grandeur, requiring some plav ot the imagination to decide whether it be the " Light ot Asia " or some other man. But it is a work of nature rather than of art. Passing out of the northeast gate and through a miserable- looking country, we reach the \ illage of the Buddhist priests, where these gentry luxuriate in g;reater comfort than the average Korean. Through the southwest gate we are conducted to the temple and tomb of OuecJi Chung. The temple is filled with soiled red hangings, has a shrine ot Buddha incarnated, and the whole structure is noisome with foul odors. The pleasure-grounds, surrounding the palaces, cover an area of a thousand acres, and are very interesting. They extend to the foot of the moLintains, where some maenifi- cent views may be had. lliere are no modes of convey- ance except sedan chairs, and a reliable guide is necessary, both to point out the way and to act as interpreter. I o FJiNG-YANG, Ivi iRbA. CHAPTER XV PING— \AN'G, KOREA WE left Chemulpo earh' in the atteriiooii of May 20, reaching Ping-\ang Inlet late on the lid. Uiu'inii the da\'light the weather was \vai"m and halm\', not unlike May-da\ s at home; but the nights were chilK', and our progress was slow, owing to the dangerous coast and the fogs which pre\'ailed. The steam-whistle made the days and nights dreary b\- incessant "footings," vshich were necessary to gi\'e warning of our position and mo\ements ; and it was a relief to our strained-e\'ed lookouts when we dropped anchor in forty fathoms ot water, and "piped all hands to rest." 26o An American Cruiser in the East ThroLio-h li"^ht rifts in the focr we had occasional tot" ^ glimpses of the coast and the great barren rocks, jutting up from the sea, — rocks without a vestige of verdure upon them ; resting-places for the gulls and sea-spawn, and breakers upon which the unwary mariner might be dashed to destruction. No lights, no marks, nothing to guide or warn in the fog or in the black storm at night when the howling winds and boiling sea, aided by the treacherous currents, might drive the ship on and on until the tale would be " missing." The memory of that region makes one shudder, and corroborates the truth of the stories that the Koreans have rendered the ap- proaches to their country as desolate and unattractive as possible. How different is the vicinity of Ping-yang Inlet ! The scenery along its shores and up the rivers is varied and beautiful. For background, dark and gloomy hills, which thrust their peaks into the clouds, brave the anger of the storm, or receive the first kiss from the rising sun, while from their sides bright valleys of waving green extend down to the sea. Here and there a patch of woods, a cascade, or falls ot silvery water which leap over or trickle down the massv sides of great rockv liills, where may be hidden gold or sih'er or iron or coal, — awaiting the miner's touch, — that may yet ransom Korea, and make her one of the wealthy nations of the East ; villages of huts in the vallevs, or near the beach, where groups of curious nati\'cs with flowing white robes and sombre hats discuss the arri\'al as they add xarietv to the already beautiful sccncrv. The next meaning we raised our anchor and stood close in to the land, hunting for Chclto, on the Yalu Ri\'cr, which we found late in the afternoon, and dropped our anchor just in time to get the full force of a very homelike thunder-and-rain storm. From an inky blackness in the Ping-yang, Korea 261 hea\'ens, lightning began to play its pranks. Soon the wind came whistling and howling, while the flashes of lightning came nearer and nearer, and sent threat forked streaks among the hills and down the \'allevs, while the thun- der boomed, and echoed from hill to hill. The rain poured down in torrents, and the clouds seemed to have opened their flood-gates. In this war of the elements, each seemed to try to outdo the other, and all were ri\alled by the mad rush of the ri\ers, which unite here and form the Ping- yang Inlet. Alter awhile, the clouds drifted awav, and blue patches began to appear in the hea\'ens, and soon we had a clear skv and twinkling stars where the angr\- elements had warred. Here and there along the shore, or in the dingv huts, lights sent their starlike brightness from the homes of the nati\'es, and no sounds disturbed the peace of the " Land of the Morning Calm" except the mighty roar of the rivers, the surf upon the beach, and our bugle's " call to rest." We had finished our good-night cigars, after watch- ing the faint flashes from receding clouds, as the lightning, loath to lea\ e, shot forth from the dim distance like a sullen armv in retreat. In the mornino; we found our \'essel just within the mouth of the Yalu (one of the three ri\ ers which form the Ping-vano; Inlet), opposite the town, and just inside the lines of nati\'e breastworks that mark the toitifications. The ri\er was swift-running and muddy, sweeping like mad through a \'erv fairv-land. The sun shone in splendor, and lighted up beautiful emerald hills, or, bv contrasting shadows, emphasized valleys whose beauties alkn'e to rest , or penetrated the dark recesses of mvsterious gro\es, — on the \'erv mountain-tops, — where holv men, like Moses, commune with God, and still offer blood and burnt offer- ings for the sins of the people. E\erv time we visited the shore the tide happened to be 262 An American Cruiser in the East low, and we found ourselves more than twenty feet below the usual water-le\-el of the little town, and our boat unable to reach land. After being carried o\'er the muddy bottom for some two hundred feet upon the shoulders of two lusty Koreans, we were landed at the foot of the principal street ("road ") of Chelto. Chelto is situated on the right bank of the Yalu River, just abo\e the intersection of the ri\ers. It contains about fifty houses, tho.^e of the better classes being built of rough stones plastered o\er with mud, then' thatched roots being of rice-straw. The poorer houses are made of wooden poles, stuck into the trround and laced together with basket- work. These are also plastered over with mud, and have thatched roots. P'ormerK , the a\erage Korean family was contented with a large hole in the ground, which was roofed over with stiaw thatching, lea\ int: an opening in the roof for ingress and egress. These were found to afford very little protection against raids of the tiger, an animal which abounds in these northern parts. Frequentlv, after the \isits ot these creatures, whole families were found to have suffered, and in many cases funerals were the order ot the dav, so that to the present time the inventor of houses is considered a public benefactor, and a prayer is offered for him. Beneath each house is a large stone under which a small fire is kept smouldering, while abo\ e it mats are placed, to be used as the family bed. Mattresses and hea\'y bed-cover- ing are not required, although the thermometer often regis- ters zero, and snow and ice are well known throughout the winter. There are no shops in the place, it being a town of agri- culturists. The residence of the go\'ernor of the province IS in the \ icinit\ . The men are stalwart, with well-formed heads, handsiMiie countenances, just a tinge of copper in their well-turned, regular features, black hair and eyes, and Pin<:;;-\an(j;, Korea :6 gracetnl, tree-aiid-easy caniage. Tlun- maiiv quite yoiiiio;, and the women soon get a worn, haggard look, which the\' usually retain until about their fortieth \ear of at^e, when the\' grow stout. Except tor the "•' sleep\- e\e./' the\- are a handsomer race ot people tliaii either the Japanese or the Chinese. ?'3h' -j p p p- ^w' ," is^ ^^ Fortifications a.nd Go\'ernoh's House, Ping-vaxg Inli:t, Korea. Thev dress in flowing white robes which reach to the shoe-tops. T heir loose white trousers are tied in at the ankles, and threat mufflers ot quilted cotton are bound about their feet, which are thrust into Chinese dress-shoes. The usual head-co\ erin^ tor an ordinar\' married man is the Stilf, straiLrht-rimmed hat ot braided black horsehair, wliich is sometimes made ot tmeK split bamboo which has been cok)red black. I he usual dress nt an unmarried man is the same, except that he does not wear am head-co\erini;, and his hair is parted m the middle and made into a broad plait, which hangs down his back. When in mourning, 264 An American Cruiser in the East the garb is of the same fashion, but is made of a white- brown or unbleached goods, with " coal-scuttle " helmet of the same color as the clothing. The hat covers the head, and reaches down to the shoulders, the intention being to cover the face as much as possible. The mourner must also carry a staff of natural-colored wood, which equals the individual in height. The costume of the women is similar to that worn by the unmarried men, except that a girdle is worn about the body, which gives the costume the appearance of bodice and skirt. The women are small in stature, of good form, and are fair to look upon. While the sexes are separated at an early age, — about six years, — the women have all that can be called a domestic life in Korea. Marriages are arranged by professional " go-betweens." Ordinarily, the woman has no voice in the selection of a husband, and knows nothing of him until all the arrangements have been made, and the wife-to-be finds herself in the presence of her future husband. After the briefest ceremony, — a feast to friends, in whose presence they pledge each other in Korean wine, — the man seizes and carries off his new- made wife. These marriages seem to be as happy as those made in other lands. Korean ladies have been famous at the Eastern courts for their grace, their wit, and their beauty. As far back as the year 1200, they were celebrated at the court of the Emperor of China, and the Pope's legate to that court reported on the " wondrous beauty of a Korean lady." Much has been written about the condition of these women ; but the facts are, that they are well satisfied, suited to their surroundings and the condition of their country, and are in the full enjoyment of all the rights they know or want. When the conditions of the country change, the women may change with them, and they will get their full share of the benefits. Ping-yang, Korea 265 The Korean is a man in the tull sense ot the word ; and because his wife is a woman, she knows how to get what she wants, and — *' When she will, she will, and what is more of it ; ^^^hen she won't, she won't, and that is all ot it.'' A Korean Voung Woman. The dress of the iiobilitv is of the same fashion as that of the comm(.)n people, but the materials, colors, and orna- ments are different, and \ary with the rank. The hat is made of fine, braided black horsehairs, with round crown, 266 An American Cruiser in the East without a rim, and is held in place on the head b\ ribbons, which tie under the chin. The slee\ es of the robe arc L^enerally of a pale blue or green color, cut long and flowing. A Korean Hoii?^e, Pixg-^anq Imlet. From the sides of the hat, hangina; down to the shoulders, long strands of amber beads are worn ; while on the breast and back are beautitulK embroidered pieces of silk, worked in natural colors. These complete the costume of the Korean ot \er\' high degree, and no swell of Europe feels his importance more than does this scion of " Choson." They do not ha\'e much furniture or many ornaments about their houses. iVIcals are taken, friends are received, and business is transacted in a squatting position. At the foot of one of the streets, antl near the water's edge, is an immense granar\, where the rice is stored until the coming of some Japanese agent, \\'ho goes through the country and buys up the produce, particularly the rice. In nearly all my visits to the shore I had my camera with me, Ping-yang, Korea \by as It was mv intention to take a picture in this interesting countrv at e\er\- ta\orable opportunit\ . I was hcic sur- rounded hv a moh ot curious men who persisted in crowd- ing between the camera and the house I was desirous of picturnig. I presented each ot the gentlenien with a cis^ar, whereupon thev all squatted down in a hue on their heels, gi\"ing me the opportuiiLtx" to tocus o\ er thcii' heads and get the house, with the women, babies, household utensils, and the furnace in the \'ard, — a t\pical Korean house. A short distance a\va\-, I took a picture of the long line ot fortitications which detend tlic ri\xr approaches. These are made of rough stones cemented together, breast high, about one \ard thick, and pierced with loopholes about .t ir^^'-m-*^ ^JtJv F' )K r IFM ATM ^^■ - every fi\'e feet. The\' extend around the junction of the rivers, and up o\er the hills. The\' were made in the davi of bows and arrows, and would not resist the projectiles of modern ordnance unless well reinfoiced by earthworks, when they could be made almost impregnable. Little did 268 An American Cruiser in the East I think, when joking with these good-natured people while taking this picture, that in a few months one of the most important battles of modern times would be fought over these walls, between the Japanese and the Chinese, — a battle whose results no man can foresee. On our way back to the town we saw many mammoth oxen grazing upon the fields, — oxen that would put the pygmies often seen at our county fairs to the blush ; while the native pony, "a natty little rig," bore his master canter- ing through the half-sleepy streets. The lonely merchant, half miller, half merchant, bartered his rice for a x'essel of rich cream, while the good housewife wove cotton from her thrifty spinnings. These people li\'e very close to nature ; and while the bet- ter classes are neat, clean, and as tidy as any people that I have ever seen, the poorer classes detest soap and water. A friend of mine was on the beach at Roze Island with his men, for target practice, when some half-grown urchins, inspired by curiosity, and eager to gather up the empty brass cartridge shells, came over from the fishing village near by. While thev were idling around, some of our men tried to persuade them to go in bathing, but they could not be prevailed upon to do so until some small change was offered as a reward. This temptation was great, and they soon divested themselves of their scanty rags, and waded into the water, but it was only work for the money ; there was no boyish fun or sport, and as soon as possible they were out of it and on their way home, rejoicing over the reward. Korea has produced some \'erv learned men, great artists, and workers in porcelain, but these ha\'e been among per- sons in the higher walks of life, who were self-educated. The common people have little or no opportunity to ac- quire an education. Until very recently, education for the best has been confined to reading and writing their own Ping-yang, Korea 269 language, the works of Confucius, and other works of ancient China. Mathematics, e\en their own history, and the sciences, that have done so much towards the advance- ment and upbuilding of other nations, are almost unknown to them. The Buddhist priests ha\e been their guides and instructors. The sons of nobles are usually sent to Peking to study Chinese lore. Koreans have no domestic life, and are great tramps and gossips. Singly, in couples, and in little groups, both by day and by night, the white-robed gentry may be seen roaming o\er hill and plain, on their way to visit some celebrated shrine, a bit of beautiful scenery, or a sacred spot, stopping at almost e\ery hut on the way to exchange the news and gossip. The people are good-natured and hospitable, and these tramps are always welcome to share the rice and meat, and doubly welcome when a particularly good story is told, or a bit of spicy gossip is rehearsed. The se.xes are separated, and ha\e separate apartments from an earh' age ; and it is considered a great breach ot etiquette for the face of a woman to be seen by a man. Koreans ha\e a great appreciation and love tor the beautiful in nature. It is common to see great monu- mental stones that have been erected by men of means to commemorate the pleasure they have derived from the contemplation of a landscape, waterfall, or some beautiful scenery. Their religion is founded upon the ancient Confucian of China. Their ancestors are the chief objects of wor- ship, but they also worship heaven, and believe in spirits. They think that the air and sea are peopled with spirits, good and e\'il, and believe that they can hold communion with them at all times. The fifth, fifteenth, and twenty- fifth of every month are considered unlucky days, upon which they will not begin any venture. The Koreans seem to have greater respect for the Japa- 270 An American Cruiser in the East nese than for any other people. Their relations have been close, as the Japanese ha\e o\errun the country three or tour times. They are better acquainted with Eastern Korean Buddhist Priests. policy and diplomacy than any other nation, and are frank and honest in their dealings. The only portions of land that arc of any great \aluc are along the roads upon which the neat little Japanese houses, tea-houses, and the temple are built, where the little " musiime " pats her clotrs as she Ping-yang, Korea 271 waddles along, and where the Chesi makes night hldccius with \clls when stufted with too much rice. The go\'ernment of Korea has a dim appreciation of the tendencN' ot these times towards scientific progress and a higher ci\ ilization ; but a \-er\- powerful anti-torcign part\-, with ramifications all o\'er the kingdom, is bent upon plac- ing all obstacles possible in the way ot any chano;e. The Jesuits ha\e gi\cn the Koreans a threat deal of trouble in \'ears gone hv. 'I'he\- disguised thcmscKes, studied the language in China, worked their wa\- into Korea, set up their religion, and preached, making some con\-erts. As soon as disco\'ered, the Korean go\'ernment thrust them out with fire and sword. Man\" were burned at the stake, others torn limb from limb, and still others decapitated. All that has been changed in the last tew years, and now the missionary has pernnssion to li\e in the country under certain restrictions, and is doing a good vyork, educating the poor, healing the sick, and teaching the people how to li\e and die. Gen-san, Korea Gen-san (" War-san," of the Koreans) extends for a couple of miles along the shores of Broughton Bay, v\hich is on the northeast coast of Korea, nearly half-way between Fu-san and Vladi\'ostok. Broughton Bay is a beautiful sheet of water, surrounded b\- green hills which are in a high state of cultiyation. Gen-san \yas opened to the trade of the world in 1883. The town consists of about two thousand houses, with a population ot about eio-hteen thousand inhabitants. The main street extends the o entire length of the town, and into this numerous narrow and crooked lanes open. The houses are mean and dirty, resemblin^^ the po\-ert\'-stricken huts of the native settlement in the flats at Chemulpo. There is an open space near 272 An American Cruiser in the East each end of the main street, where small farmers and prod- uce dealers congregate each week tor the purpose ot ex- changing their wares. These markets are \ er\ picturesque and interesting, and are the means of bringing together all classes of the people, native and foreign. What a Babel of sounds ! Each is talking in his own laiiguage, or in some compromise between it and the others. BrOUGHTON liAY AND (iEN-SAN. The stalwart, white-robed Korean, the shock-headed obied Japanese, and the slick Chiiiaman in silks, barter for rice and eggs and fowls. The musume exchanges gossip with the veiled Korean, while the Chinese maiden balances herself upon her deformed feet. The Buddhist priests " chin-chin " to each other, and walk off with a i'ew eggs. The oxen and the ponies make friends, and the geese and fowls get mixed in their rough coops, while a Chinese urchin goes screaming down the road with a young Japa- nese and a Korean pulling at his pigtail. Ping-yang, Korea 273 The Japanese, as usual, ha\e a neat, clean settlement ot about one hundred and fift\' ct)nifoitablc houses, built in the Tokio st\le, and ha\e surrounded themselves with many of the elegances of their own land. Their Con- sulate, in the European st\ le of architecture, is a \ery lar^e building, containing many rooms, where Japanese interests are well looked after. 1 he Chinese Consulate, not far from the custom-house, is situated near the centre of the Chinese settlement. The foreign settlement is on the side of a hill, in a \-ery healthy locality. The houses are built of brick or wood, with tiled or thatched roofs. The roads are soft, and are almost impassable in rain\ weather. The Japanese and Chinese merchants carry on an extensive business in cottons, silks, dye-stuffs, and gold. There are about eighteen hun- dred foreign residents, of whom about fourteen hundred are Japanese. The country about Gen-san is in a good state of culti\'ation of produce, rice, and grasses. The soil is remarkably fertile. Mines of copper are worked to a limited extent, and gold is found in the neighboring mountains. Cattle are \'erv fine and plentiful, and are raised for use as food and as beasts of burden. Broughton Bay is an excellent harbor, with good depth of water and fair holding ground. It is roomy, well pro- tected against stormv winds, and easy of access. Ice ne\er forms to a thickness that interferes with the com- merce of the port. As trade impro\'es, the natives are attracted to the town so that it is growing in almost all directions. There is a telegraph line under Chinese man- agement which connects the town with the capital. Trade is carried on by Japanese steamers and junks with Japan, China, and other parts of the kingdom. The value of the foreign trade is about 1,500,000 Japanese or Mexican silver dollars. The exports are hides, beans, rice, dried fish, skins, and gold. The imports are cotton and silk manufactured goods, metals, and dyes. iS 274 A'^ American Cruiser in the East Fu-SAN, Korea Fu-san (" Pu-san," of the Koreans) is the nearest Korean town to Japan, only separated from Shimonoseki by the Japanese Straits. It is a walled town, located at the head of a beautiful harbor in the southeastern end of the penin- sula. It is the residence of the_ military governor, who is in charge of the Royal storehouses for rice, which are lo- cated here. There are only a few miserable huts in the town, and these are occupied by the guards and laborers employed about the storehouses. A short distance from the walled town, opposite Deer Island, the Japanese settlement is U)cated. As usual, these clever people ha\e brought their homes and habits with them, and the little town is as methodically laid out, well kept, and clean as any little town m Japan. The houses are well built (in the Japanese style), are comfortable, and have many of the little elegances with which these artistic people surround themselves. The Japanese Consul, assisted by an elective council of land-owners, administers the affairs of the settlement. The police are uniformed in the European fashion. There is a fairly good supply ot water, and the roads are lighted at night with lamps, which burn American kero- sene. There are about 5,600 foreign residents, ot whom 5,370 are Japanese. Hanging on to the outskirts of the Japanese settlement is a collection of miserably wretched, thatched-roofed, native cabins and huts, with an even more wretched population of about two thousand souls, among whom the males find employment, more or less precarious, with the foreign resi- dents ; and this is about the story at all the open Korean ports. These poor nati\'es gather about the outskirts of the foreign settlements, live in miserable huts, and as they are mentally simple arid childlike, but physically strong, Piiig-yang, Korea 271; they eke out a wretched existence b\ a\ enues new to them ; and thus the ranks ot agricultunsts — which are said to be o\ercro\vded — find relief. While woi kin^ and lix'inij; thus, these people learn h)reign methods; and crude and rough though it be, this experience is slux- of its reward when the dawning da\ shall hurst forth into the full noon ot Korean prosperit\ . The harbor ot Fu-san is a niaiinihcent bod\' of water, with sutHcient extent and depth to float great fleets of the largest vessels. The climate is mild and health\', — a \'erv H\'geia, — a paradise tor old and \oung, where one can live in the open air tor the greater part ot the \'ear ; and the place has one ot the tinest beaches in the f^ast, where sea-bathing can be indulcred in at all times. The important town ot Fong-nai-tu, containing about thirt\' thousand inhabitants, is about eight miles inland. Japanese steamers and junks make regular trips to Fu-san. There is teletjraphic connection with the capital, and a submarine cable connects the town with Japan. The trade of the port amounts to about tour million Japan- ese or Mexican dollars a \'ear. OuELPART,^ Korea What South Africa was to the British, what Siberia is to the Russian, so Ouelpart is to the Korean, — a land ot banishment and exile. This dread island is situated about forty miles to the southward and westward ot the main- land of Korea, in the wa\- of the navigator on his route from Japan to the northern part ot China. The coast is high and rockv ; and as there is no reliable harbor, it is dano-erous to attempt a landmg. Deception Bay, as its name implies, is a mere indentation on the northern side of the island, and afi-'ords neither holding ground nor 1 Pronounced Kcll-par. 276 An American Cruiser in the East shelter for vessels. The everlasting, restless, dashing sea upon its unsheltered, rock-bound shores makes the landing extremely dangerous. Fancy scrambling upon the slimv, slippery rocks from a surf-tossed boat. Struggling up the face of the rocks and bowlders, drenched to the skin, hanging on by one's fingers, then a foot-hold, a slip-back, a tug, a pull, then a dreary prospect, an almost hopeless reach, until finally one has pulled, crawled, and worked himself up the face of the rocks for two hundred feet or more, when the lower plateau is reached. What a scene presents itself! Off yonder, to seaward, a great ship is moving about, like a monster of the deep; be\ond, the heavens and the waters seem to meet and merge into one. Turning inland, the emerald and black hills and plains of the " accursed prison island " lie before one, and yonder Auckland looms up sixtv- fi\'e hundred feet towards the clouds, and ofters the Korean a holy place for sacrifice and pra\'er. In the quiet restfulness of the place, tired nature suc- cumbs to repose; and, on awakening, the balmy air, the delicious scent-laden breezes, the sweet songs of the birds, and the presence of a group of curious nati\'es make one feel this to be the very "Land of the Morning Calm." Near Deception Bay is a nati\'e settlement of several hundred huts, occupied by the garrison and a few hundred inhabitants, who li\e and die in this lonely place with scarcely a thought of the world without and its affairs. So innocent and ignorant are they that if they are told of the great countries beyond, or of current events of the world's history, they stare at you as if in a daze, with no sign of appreciation. They have no knowledge except of their little crops, hunts, and the affairs of the petty island. In olden times, the island was a resort for pirates and thieves, who swarmed the neighboring seas, and preyed upon all on land or sea, but " modern appliances " having ren- Ping-yang, Korea 277 dereJ such occupations, to sav the least, a little dangerous, the Island has been g;i\en o\'er to nioie honest purposes. The government have used it as a place of banishment for ortending natives, and tor foreigners who ha\'e had the tementv to penetrate into the forbidden land, but whose heads it was deemed ad\ isable to lea\ e upon their shoulders. Here the\- languished out a miserable, hopeless existence untd relie\'ed by death. Up to the toot ot Mount Auckland a rolling land is inter- spersed with hills and valle\s, while waterfalls, rippling, siKer\ streams, and terrace on terrace, add their beauty to the scene. The soil, rich and productive, is well culti\ated in manv places, while o\ er large tracts the wild hog has almost undisputed sway. The monkey trisks and chatters from swinging boughs, while the almost helpless nati\ e smiles in innocent glee at the antics ot the Darwinian specimen, and either attacks, or retreats from his haiiy toe. Until recently the t^oxernment mamtained a s\ stem of watchers and watch-towers on the island, as well as on the mainland, to signal the approach ot suspicious \essels, and to gix'e warning; of an\' danger. A great Hre was lighted, the smoke of which could be seen at the next station, and this sit^nal was repeated from station to station until seen at Seoul. The culti\'ation of a friendship with a tew ot the nati\ es induced them to furnish us a large basket and a coil ot straw rope, which facilitated the descent to the rocks below and at the same time lessened its dani^er. CHAPTER XVI KOREA " Land of the Morning Calm, — and evening rest, And afternoon repose, — thy life's lot seems A dolce far niente undistressed By labor's pain or keen ambition's schen:ies. Keep thou thine ancient state; since countless years Have thrown no wave of progress on thy shores, Best now to stand aside, nor share the fears Of those who surge and clamor at thy doors. Still let thy sons, like shadows ot the past. White-clad and silent, watch the distant strife Nor seek to know, nor long the die to cast Which shall with knowledge mar thy simple lite." KOREA, Choson ("Land of the Morning Calm"), called Koria by the Portuguese, who were the first navigators known in the far East, and still called Korea, or Corea, by foreigners, is a peninsula situated on the north- eastern side of Asia, extending southwestward between China and Japan. It is about six hundred miles long, and lies between the 34th and 43d degrees of north latitude. The Sea of Japan is on its eastern side, Manchuria lies to the north, the Yellow Sea is on the westward, and the Korean Channel marks its southern limit. It has a coast- line of about seventeen hundred miles. Korea is a land of mountains and hills, many being from 1,000 to 8,000 feet in height. They appear snarled and tumbled about in all directions, but the trend is northwest by southeast. The highest lie towards Manchuria, and Korea 279 lieie the ^ alu and the rmiiun i"i\ ers are foniieil. Hien-tiiinj;, the highest mountain in Korea, is 8,114 feet high, and is at the southeastern extreniit\' ot the ran^e. The Yalu, the chict ri\er ot Korea, and a poi'tion of its northern boundar\-, has two sources, one on the southern slopes ot the mountains, the other in the noitheastern portion of the peninsula. These unite and form the "• three-mouthed ri\ cr," the eastern, central, and western. The eastern is the deepest, but has the strongest current, the central has less cmrent, and the western Is compara- ti\ elv small and sate. It is about tort\'-fi\'e miles trom the harbor ot Taktj. Until \'er\^ recently the na\ ligation ot this branch was interdicted b\' the Korean noxcrnment, and strant:;ers found attcmptmg to use it were put to death or transported to Ouelpart. Its navigation, like that ot all Korean ri\ers, is unsafe on account of many sandbars. The Tumun is the second great ri\-cr in Koiea. It takes Its rise on the eastern side ot the northern range ot mountains and flows into the Yellow Sea. The Han Ri\er, upon which Seoul, the capital, is situated, and the Ping-vang, rise in this range of mountains, and are \ery important ri\-ers. These ri\ers are frozen o\er tor se\eral months in the \"ear. The na\do;ation of this entire coast is dangerous, owing to the strong tides and currents among the islands and rocks and the prevalence of dense togs. Thei'e are se\cral deep, well-sheltered harbors on both coasts, which will be more fully noticed in the descriptions of the settlements. Korea possesses many ad\'antages in hills, dales, sea, and river, and, lying at the mouth of the Yellow Sea, it recci\es the moderating influence of the southwest monsoon, which tempers the climate and necessarily causes main" productions to surpass those of the ctmtinent in similar latitudes. The climate is healthy, in\igorating, and bracing in the northern part, where the winters are long and cold. The southern 280 An American Cruiser m the East portioti is exposed to the winds from the Yellow Sea and the Korean Channel, which moderate the winters and make the summers enjoxable. The common people suffer terribly from scarcity of fuel The mines are filled with coal, but there are no means of His Majesty Li-Fin, King of Korea, and his Royal Highness THE Crown Prince. distribution, even it permission to worlv the mines were given i and so much ot the arable land is under culti\'ation for the food supply that there are not enough forests to furnish fuel. Their onl\' relief is in warm clothing. The Korea 281 \vcalth\- line their robes with the skins of animals, while the middle class and the poor quilt cotton-wool in their garments. Clothing made of wool is unknown to them. In the capital, a fa\-ored few obtain small quantities of sur- face coal, which is mixed with a proportion ot mud to give it bodv, and is burned in open grates. It gi\ es out a heat that is anything but satisfactory. Korea tor political purposes is divided into ei^ht prov- inces, and each ot these is subdi\ided into smaller jurisdic- tions, as in China. The people are of the same race as the Japanese and Chinese. In appearance, they are like the people ot North China, but they are more frank and more like the Japanese in their manners. Thev are a bra\e people, and are excellent friends but dangerous foes ; their history is tull ot the proofs ot this. They ha\'e frequently fought the Japanese and the Chinese, and the French and Americans can bear witness to their courage. Their devo- tion to the cause ot the Roman Catholic priests in their hour of trial, and their open door and heart\- welcome to e\er\- comer, clearlv pro\'cs their friendship and hospitality. According to nati\'e histor\, a Chinese warrior named Kisbi, or Kitaze, who in ii 22 b. c. was defeated and had his arm\" put to rout b\' the Tartars, fearing to return to his nati\ e countr\ with broken fortunes, led his followers down the peninsula, subdued the nati\e " hair\- " race he found there, established the political and social order, and became the first Korean monarch. His descendants are said to ha\'e ruled until the fourth centurv I5. c. As the " hairy " people, or Ainos, were of an indolent but inde- pendent disposition, and could not be utilized in the new economv, their lands were confiscated and the owners disposed of The present d\-nasty is descended from Ni- Taijo, a young soldier uf fortune who succeeded in depos- ing the Wang d\-nast\\ Seoul, whose nati\'e name is Han-yan (city on the Han), was selected by Ni-Taijo as 282 An American Cruiser in the East his capital, and it has remained the capital city since that time. Tlie present ruler, His Majesty King Li-Fin, is the twent\ -eighth so\ ereign of the present line. The kingdom is governed, under the King and three Prime Ministers, by fi\'e Departments, — those ot Finance, Ceremonies, Public P,niployment, War, and Justice. 1 he general administration of the government is patterned after that of China. The revenue for the support of the government is derived from the land tax, and amounts to about one million of Japanese or Mexican dollars each year. The King, though an indepen- dent sovereign, recognized the Emperor ot China bv a yearly tribute until the year _ _ if^QSi when befcjre the tablets of liis an- fp-^'-4pL B ccstors he solemnly declared his indepen- J '* r" 'Jw dcnce of China. The Koreans have always been able military engineers, skilled in the construc- tKjn and defence of fortifications. After the lapse ot twelve hundred years, ruins ot their works are to be met v\'ith on all sides as we travel about the coast, from the round tower, with encircling court, to the great walls surrounding a city, — on plains, on hills, and on spurs on the mountain-side. Among the rugged mountains which are the barrier-wall between Korea and Manchuria, and in the valley ot the Yalu, ranges a tribe ot independent mountaineers who live in defiance ot both Korea and China. They have fre- quently been attacked by the Chinese forces, but it has been found impossible to dislodge them. "Fhcy are of Manchu descent and are partially civilized, are expert '■'■ medicine men," and occupy themselves in gathering and 'JiiE Prime Minister of Korea. Korea 283 preparing medicinal roots, and in hunting for gold. At certam seasons the\" meet the Chinese and the Koreans and exchange their medicmes and t^okl tor products of China and Korea. For centuries the Koreans successfulU' resisted all efforts to induce them to hold intercourse with torci2;ners, e;oing to the extent ot converting their horder-land and the entii'e coast into a desert, in order to render entrance as drearv and as unattractive as possible, and \ i^itlng the punishment of death upon anv person who had the tement\' to pass the bounds thus set. At the same time, the\" wei'e stri\'ing to build up a nation worthv ot the countr\" thev inhabited, and thev became masters and teachers in literature and poetry, in metal and art work, painting and embroidery, and tor hundreds ot \"ears the\" instructed the Japanese and the Chinese. They invented one of the most perfect languages in existence, — a religion tounded upon the teachings ot Con- fucius, — and their engineers were building ci\il and military works in the East when Rome was \-oung. Their mastery of the arts has been lost m a great measure, and the de- scendant of the master has taken the place ot pupil, while the descendant of the pupil has become the master. But it must be remembered that much skill still remains in Korea, as is demonstrated b\- their beautiful boats, which are made of wood without metal fastenings, guns, small and large, nearly all breech-Ioading and of most beautiful workman- ship, and their artistic costumes. The houses of the \vealth\" class in Korea are oblong, one story in height, built of stone or wood, plastered inside and out, and covered u-ith a thatched root. The door is placed near one corner of the house; near it is a boiler for cooking, and a small space for the cook to work in. The " kang," a mammoth stove of brick, stones, or terra-cotta, is built y,-ithin this room, and the top of it forms the floor 2S4 An American Cruiser in the Ivast of the rcni.ilning poition of the house. The sleeping- rooms are at the baek end of the " kaiig," whieh ser\ es to wanii them, aiul the tire whieh is used tor eooking purposes also heats the " kaiig." I'he wiiulows are small openings covered with oiled paper or seiaped skins ot animals, and onK' ser\ e to show the inmates how tlark it is within the room. The houses of tlie people oi the better class are neat and clean. 'i'lit: " Ciii_).soN," nil' iiM.\ \'i;ssF.L IN 'nil KourAN Navy. Like all Kastcrii people, tile Koie.ms lia\e great \enera- ti(Ui for age, and .1 white he.ul is .1 " crown of g)or\ ." The lapanese and the- t'hiiuse' sha\ e tlu- h.iir from the hcatis of their ho\'S, sometinus in f.int.istie shape; hut the Koreans allow their h.iir to grow all o\ er the liead, part it in the miildle, and \\e.ii the h.ick portion h.inging down in a broad plait. W'lu'ii tlie\' marr\', this |il.iit is cut off, Icavino; a stump about ionv inches loiiij;, wliich is turned up, flat on tile he.ul, aiu! worn under tiie hat. Korea ::S; Tn the northern p.irt ot the eotintr\-, the poorer classes dress in clothes m.ule troni a species ot Lrr.iss-cloth, \\\n en from .1 tibvoiis plant v\hich is cultn ated e\tensi\ el\-. This cloth bleaches as white as cotton, and i> substituted for It. In the southern part ot the countrx cotton is worn, and the people dress m white, except when in niotirnini;, the color tor that costume beuii: a whit\ -blown. The \\"ealth\ wear silks, either ot their own or ot Chinese niaiui- tacture. 1 he poor people use straw sandals, w hile the upper classes wear shoes made i^t cloth, or ot leather, both ha\ 111;:: leathei' soles and pointed toes. 1 he middle classes wear shoes made ot stout twine plaited ; the soles arc made tiist, then the upper part is worked on, and it is remark.ible how well these shoes wear. The hats ha\ c broad brims and cxlinder tops, and are made ot black horsehair or of line w-o\ en crass. 1 his costume is alter the st\ le ot the Mine d\ i'iast\ in L'hina. The buttons are ot amber, orna- ments ot" -adestone, and the ladies atlect pearls. In the northern part of the district, dishes and table-ware are made of polished cast-brass, which is iich in copper, while in the southern pan the table-fittmcs are made ot cla\ and poice- lain. Prospectors claim that the countr\ is rich in minerals. All cereals and \ eeetables are found in abundance ; grapes, apricots, peaches, plums, apples, pears, and cherries grow throughout the countr\- ; and gooseberries, currants, and strawberries are found in the noiihern part. '1 he truits come to ereat pert'ection, but owdng to o\ er-culti\ ation they do not ha\ e the rich tla\or of corresponding t'rtiits raised in the Middle States of our own countrw The cotton produced in Korea is of staple and fine quality, similar to the best of Sea Island cotton. Formerl\-, laree quantities of foreign cotton cloth were purchased from the Chinese at the gates. Koreans raise no sheep, and ha\ e no woollen manufactures. The mulberr\-tree is culti- 2 86 An American Cruiser in the East vated in many places, the bark being used in the manurac- ture of a paper which is known all over the northern part of China, and it is especiallv \'alued for its texture and strength. It is used tor screens, windows, umbrellas, etc. A Korean I~.\ Medicnies used b\- the Chniese are produced in great quan- tities in Korea. Ginseng, a celebrated tonic, constitutes one of the most important articles of trade ; and tobacco, ot a mdd quality, is grown in many places, and is almost uni\'ersalh- used. Korea 287 1 he elm, se\'eral \'arieties ot pine, the ccJar, sc\ eral species ot oak, birches, and cork-trees are common. The iron-wood, hawthorn, and the wild iig are frcquenth met. Chestnuts and se\ eral other \arieties ot nut-bearin, CiiI-\\. Ail fishermen, women, and girls belie\-e themselves to be under her special protection, and the people ot Fuhkin con- sider her their guardian and patron, as she is the deified daughter of a fisherman of that place. No labor or expense has been spared in honoring the goddess, the finest orna- mental stonework, the richest wood-carvings, and gold, silver, and colors, in barbaric splendor and profusion, com- pose and adorn her temple. The other temples, in honor of titular gods, are fine specimens of Chinese architec- ture, decoration, and ornamentation, but the\- pale m com- 308 An American Cruiser in the East parison with the magnificence of that to the Queen of Heaven. Ningpo is ornamented with a seven-storied hexagonal pagoda, — " the heaven-sent pagoda," — one hundred and sixty feet in height. The outer covering has crumbled away, leaving the rough brickwork exposed. The build- ing leans a little like the tower of Pisa, and old trees and bushes are growing trom its corners, but it is an interesting and impressive monument of the past. Its top is reached by flights ot rickety old wooden stairs on the inside. The view from the top ot this old pagoda well repays one tor the risky climb. The homes of two millions of human beings, with their hopes and fears, joys and sorrows, lite and death, lie betore us. Beyond the miles of tiled roofs, serpent-like streams meander through the great muddy plains, which reach to the foot of the mountains, and \'il- lages dot the shores, between which hundreds of junks sail on their busy way. At the foot of the old pagoda stairs is a shrine containing eight gods, and a priest sees that the joss-sticks and little lamp are kept burning. The streets of Ningpo are well paved, and are wider than those of any other Chinese city that I have visited. The shops are bright and gay with native goods, but all that a foreigner is tempted to purchase are the exquisite wood-carvings, — statuettes of natives, and beautifully carved cabinets and frames, which are really worth the care required to bring them home. The Ningpo River is crossed by a pontoon bridge which is more than six himdred feet long, and is lined on both sides with native shops and booths. It is a gay promenade where all phases of Chinese outdoor life may be seen. Behind the end of this bridge stands an old fort, dating trom the days ot the occupation, and near it is a monu- ment which commemorates the event. Outside ot the city are thousands of burial-places. Some Ningpo, China J09 arc handsome stone and biiek vaults, or mounds of earth as high as one's head. In others, the coffin is placed upon the ground and coNcred with matting, while in (]uite a number of instances the corpse is tied up in a piece of matting, and lies on the ground, exptjsed to the heat, the Cold, and the storms. As mav be supposed, all classes are represented here, the rich, the middle class, and the poor, |(?»«S'«. L„ The rijNTOnx I;iii[M;i, XixgI'h, Chixa. and the poor beggar lies unburied, almost uncovered, in death. Thousands ot men, women, and children crowd back and forth o\'er the pontoon bridtre and amoiiLi; the shops. Pedlers, with irreat packs upon their backs, call out their wares or spread them upon the walks for inspection. W^e see little shops where rice, triiit, and soups are sold, their owners shi\-crini; behind the tin\' sto\'es while awaiting a customei'. Horses, wheelbarrows, and sedan chairs add to the confusion, and the place is ali\ e with barter and trade. -J 10 An American Cruiser in the East J The blacksmith squats upon the ground and pulls his bellows and warms himself at his curious forge; the barber's tinlcling bell announces that he is ready to sha\'e a head, dress a queue, or put the last delicate touch upon the eyebrows of a dude; an old cobbler is mending shoes; and near by a woman is patching or mending a rent in an old garment ; a crowd of youngsters are enjoying themselves with shuttle- cock, striking with their heads, elbows, and heels ; and the old men indulge in flying great kites made in forms of beasts and iiirds and gods. The Chinese have some curious customs. Soon after a child is born, its wrists are decorated with scarlet cords to wliich charms are attached. These are expected to ward oft the ills to which infantile lite is exposed, as well as to keep off evil spirits. When the child is one month old,^ a barber, dressed in red, the religious color, sha\es all the hair from its head except one little tutt, which is left at the crown as a foundation for the queue. A bov must be shaved before the ancestral tables, and a girl before th image of the goddess of children. In either case, thank- ofterings are presented to the goddess, and friends send gifts of eggs, cakes, and sweets to the baby. These presents are done up in red paper or silk. The ancestral tablet is a small monumental slab of wood or stone, which stands for the dead ancestor. Sometimes se\eral generations are represented on one slab by names, dates, and inscripti(,)ns. These tablets are similar to a dimin- utive tombstone, and are generally lacquered in black and decorated with gilt characters. The spirit of the dead is supposed to enter the tablet, and the more frequently it is worshipped, the better the spirit is pleased. After the fifth generation, the spirit is supposed to ha\ e passed into anoth body, and is no longer worshipped. Three moons after the shaving of an infant, the goddess is thanked and invoked to make the child grow up stiong e er y. < Ningpo, China 313 and [rood. On its first birthday, the goddess is again vvor- shipped, and thank-offerings are made to her; while the child is dressed in gay clothing, and pencils, tools, books, and various other articles are placed before it. All the members ot the family and friends stand around in expect- ancy, tor whate\'er is first taken into the tiny hand is believed to presage its future occupation. From this time on the child is taught to worship the gods, to bow before them, and to raise his hands when incense and candles are burned in their honor. The boys wear a tuft of hair until the tenth year, when the queue is trained. Chinese boys are experts at top-spin- ning, seesaw, and cjuoits, and no boys enio\' the sports with more zest ; but in all their play there seems to be an under- lying \ein of gra\ it\' and soberness that is not often seen among the young of any other countr\'. At the sixteenth year children leaye childhood behind them. Chinese girls are instructed b\' tutors, as there are no nati\e schools for them, but nati\ e schools for boys are to be found all o\cr the country. The schoolmasters are \'ery important personages. Parents take great interest in them, and are always on the lookout for the best. The master must not only know the doctrines of the ancient sages, but he must know how to teach. When a particular school has been settled upon for the boy, the schoolmaster is in\ited to a feast specially prepared for him. A fortune-teller decides upon a luck\' day for the boy to enter school ; and on entering the boy first worships at the shrine of Confucius, salutes his teacher respectfully, recci\'es the teacher's instructions, and goes to his desk. Each boy has a desk so arranged that he cannot speak to the boy in the next desk, and they are not per- mitted to talk in school. In reciting their lessons, pupils are required to stand with their backs to the teacher. A Chinese school, during study hours, is a very noisy place. 314 An American Cruiser in the East as the lessons are learned h\- being repeated in a sing-song manner, while the students s«'a\" their heads from side to side. Sehools are alwa\"s closed on the anni\ersar\- ot the death of Confucius, and for about ten da\"S at the Chmese New "^'ear, and the pupils are excused to keep tannh- testi\als, — hirthda\s ot ancestors, — and to worship at tablets and at tombs. Schoolmasters are men ot literar\' honors who ha\'e a tondne^s tor teachiiiL:. The incenti\ e to stud\" is the hope ot taking; literar\" honors, which are the onU" means ot advancement. E\ en a person m the lowest walks ot lite, taking these honors, wotild rank as a L^entleman, and be eli2:ible to the hi-jhest place in the eitt ot the irovernment. The school punishments are standiiiL: with face to the wall and repeatmLr some lesson or classic. For extreme cases, the culprit is beaten with the " bmom,'" which means bad luck, and is con>idered the worst punishment the master can inflict. The responsihilit\" of the teacher ne\Tr ends ; it the bo\ in atter-lite should commit some great crime, — kill his parents, tor instance, — the teacher would be liable to be executed tor the manner m which he taught the child. Chinese Homes Yhe houses of the wealth\" are built ot drab-colored bricks, with hea\ \ stone trimmniLrs about the openings, and with tiled roofs, more or less ornamented, accordini; to taste. 'rhe\" are composed of a number of lar^e rooms, generalh" on one floor. In the crowded cities, some houses are two stories in height, but the Chinese think it is un- luck\- to Ine abo\ e the trround. The houses are \er\- room\-, tor it is custom3r\- to ha\e se\'eral branches of the famiK" and the serwmts under one roof. There are alwa\s three entrances to a Chine^e house. The principal door, Ningpo, China 315 in the centre ot the house, opens into a large reception- room, in which \ isitors are recei\'cd. The floors are of pohshed woods, or concrete, inico\ ered by rug or carpet, and the walls are frequentK hung with silk or satin scrolls, beautitully decorated with paintings, or embroideries, or inscribed with some motto from the sages. Beautiful lan- terns hang from the ceilnig, suspended h\ silken cord or fineh' wrought chains. Handsomely car\'ed, straight- backed chairs, ot highK' polished wood, are ranged against the walls, while tables, screens, and cabinets, bearing old porcelains, marbles, and bronze ornaments and fans, are in profusion. At the end of the room, usually facing the entrance, the altar or shrme of household gods and the ancestral tablets are placed, upon which incense-sticks and candles arc kept burning, and offerings ot flowers or meats are alwa\s to be found. The li\ing room is similar to the reception-room, except that it has a larij;e round-t(jp table in its centre. All the inmates and wtiests ot the house gather around this table at meal-time, when the \ lands — soups, broths, stews, bakes, and sweets — are ser\'cd in course, each person helping himself with spoon or chopsticks as best ser\es his purpose. The kitchen, " the realm of m\ster\," is presided o\'er by a man, or " chef," who is well skilled in the Chinese culinary art, from bird's-nest and shark's-tin soups to melon seeds, and this domain is a wondertul, ding\- place. One side of the kitchen contains a large brick turnace, with great bowl-shaped pans fixed iiit(j the top ot it, the fire impinging upon the umler sides ot the pans. One ot these is sacred t(j the rice; the others (there may be se\ eral, de- pending upon the size of the establishment) are for gen- eral uses. The walls are co\ered with a multitude ot pots, pans, kettles, boxes, jars, and crocks, all for the use of the "mysterious king of the kitchen," who is as much of a ?i6 An American Cruiser in the East J t\iant ill China as his namcsaltrainino; e\"es, and teroeioiisU snateh up an\ little broken sttitl- that nia\' ^upport their hopeless exi^teiiee. rhe\' roll m the mud to ijet its eo\ eriiiL: tor warmth, and erawd akmg- side ot an old broken tomb to sleep. Hundreds ot thou- sands ot the people are actu.ilK erowded otl the land, and ha\ e their homes in sampans and junks. Man\ were born, reared, and expeet to end their da\ s and be buried from such homes. A i^reat main" Chinese smoke opium, and the habit is a curse to the people. The " dens " w here opium is sold and used are tieiieralK made as .ittracti\e as possible tor the nati\e, although I ha\e seen main noisome, \ lie places of the sort. In either case, hiLih or low, the \ letmi resorts to the den, and, ha\ iiii; m.ide himself comtortable upon a low- couch, places a tin\ ball ot' opium in the bowd ot his pipe, which he holds o\ er the Hame 'oads ha^'e been constructed throughout the Chinese territory, the resources of the island are being rapidly de\'eloped, and Auping and Takow ha\'e been strongly fortified. CHAPTER XX AMOY, CHINA RUNNING down the coast before a stifF monsoon is the \ery acme of sailing, and reminds us of the "good old times " we ha\e all read of, when the time of a vessel between ports could ne\er be predicted. It a \'essel made a start, her progress would depend almost entirely upon the state ot the winds. But in these days of " steam and schedules," the time of arri\"al can generalh" be calcu- lated. It, howe\er, one is sailing m the monsoon region, there mav be delays if the winds are ad\'erse, or his speed may be greatly accelerated in spite ot "•' close-reeted topsails " and " the engines turning as slowly as possible." The latter was our case on this run. We expected to arrive at early daylight, but the winds pushed us alonci at such rate that we tound ourseh'es off the entrance light at about ele\'en o'clock in the night. The coast and entrance being well lighted, and the charts entireh- reliable, we kept the lead going and ran in, anchoring for the night in the outer harbor. Our friends on shore were delighted to see the " Starry Banner" just as Key wrote, " By the dawn's early light." The island of Amov is a great barren rock of ^-olcanic formation, e\'idently of the same chain as its neighbors Korlangsoo and Swatow. Perhaps, in past times, the great thousand-ton granite bowlders, rocks, and stones that we now see all about us, were hurled upwards in some fearful con\-ulsion of nature ; but the rains and the winds of the ^^2 An American Cruiser in the East monsoons ha\'e washed ami blown away from its un- sheltered sides all deposits before thev could gain a holding place among the smooth rocks. A2;es ago, so lone; ago that no one now knows the time, an outpost was established here to repel piratical incursions from neighboring islands. This fjutpost de\-eloped into a camp, the camp mto a regLilarl\- fortified place; camp fol- lowers and hanc;ers-on soon came, and when the settlement The DiiitiHD R'h. ks at Amov, China. was strong enough to repel hostile attack, trade began and business grew, — hence the present cit\'. Amoy is situated on a hill, on the south coast of the barren island of Amo\-, in latitude 24^ 28' north, longitude I 1 8" 10' cast, nearly opposite the centre of the island of Formosa. The city is about ten miles around, and is divided into an inner and an outei' town, separated from each other hv a chain of hills. Upon the simimit of these liills tlicre is an old Chinese citadel of considerable strength, Amoy, China 3 ^^ 3 which commands both cities, as well as the surroundincr coiintrv. Each city has its own commodious harbor, where hun- dreds ot picturesque junks, swarming with noisy natives, can be seen, and the inclined stone landings are crowded with men and women, bearing to and from these busy water-cratt burdens of rice, sugar, tea, or fish. 1 he mner cit\- is protected b\- a network of \-erv strong fortifications ; but these are so close that in case of an attack upon them an enemy's projectiles would be sure to destro\" both cities. Amo\' IS the entry port of the pro\'ince of Fo-kien and the seaport of Chanw-chti, with H-hich it has wood river communication. i\Ian\" cargoes of tea from Tam-sui and other ports of Formosa are handled here, the charges inci- dent to the porterage and handling adding \-cr\" materially to the commercial importance of the place. The men of Amov aic stalwart, handsome fellows, who ha\e the bearing of good soldiers. 'rbe\- dress like the Chinese of this section of C(iuntr\-, but wear turbans to ciinceal the piirtail, which thc\" consider a badge of oppression. The streets of the native cities arc \er\" narrow and filthy. 'rhe\" arc not more than se\en feet wide ; many of them are of less width, and there is no pretence of sanitary arrangements. To go about in them one has to be prepared to climb o\er and wade through the most horrid filth and abominations, and the odors are at times almost unbearable. Granite is plent\-, and can be had for the gathering and hauling. On the heights, temples, monasteries, and a few houses are built of this stone. During the prevalence of the monsoons, the climate is filled with moisture ; and as stone houses arc belie\cd to attract the moistuix- and become damp, the people do not consider them desirable as places 334 ^^ American Cruiser in the East of residence. A great many very poor families are crowded to<2;ether, more like animals than human beings, in scantily furnished, dirty houses. Many families seem to be composed entirely of boy children. When the parents are poor, or if they do not care to rear girls, they either sell or kill them. U killed, they are usually drowned in a tub of water, and the father must do the horrid work, as any agent would be liable to be punished for the murder. The parents have absolute con- trol over their children. Sometimes girls are offered for sale, but buyers are few. It is thought necessary that all children should marry; and parents often sell or give their girls to their friends when they are quite young, to be the future wi\es of the sons of the new owners. Even among the better classes, girl children are sometimes put to death, if the parents have more daughters than they care to rear. Chinese girls of from ten to sixteen years of age wear their hair " bansred " across the front ot the head as a noti- ce fication to the "go-between " that they are of marriageable a.;n residences ha\"e, more than once, been attacked b\" mobs who could onl\- be sup- pressed b\' force of arms. Canton was besieged b\" a rebel force in 1S44-45, -"""^ '^ is belie\-ed that af'ter the repulse more than one million people perished in the pro\"ince. The citx' is admirablv located for a irreat commercial port, and for centuries it has been a noted place. Its near- ness to the sea, its central location, the pre\alence of the monsoons, and the fact that the millions ot people who reside upon its tributar\- territor\- can be reached b\' the ri\ers and canals, >eem to assure its situation. The Arabs were well acquainted with the place and \"isited it in the ninth centur\-, briii^iu'T their rellL^ion and Canton, China 373 building their mosciucs. lii the sixteenth century the Portu- guese came in fur a share of the trade. In the se\'enteenth century thev were followed by the Dutch, and from the latter part of the same century the enterprising East India Companv carried on an immense traffic with this port. At sunset all business ceases, the city gates are closed, and the bustling, busy streets arc quiet and deserted. The general teeling ot ibstriist and insecurit\- among the na- I'liiL W'atek-Front i_'r Olh Canton. I'h,' Ju>iki all i>i Jor ilu- Lkhifu- Nt-w Wiir. tives renders it necessar\' to barricade e\'erv shop at dusk, and to put it in coiidititin to v\ithstand a siege. The first sign of the Chinese New Year is the gathering of the junks, which come in from all directions. New scarlet flags aie thrown to the breezes, and scarlet papers, haying happy passages from the sages painted upon them, are pasted on bows and masts. Houses are cleaned and made brii^ht, and the scarlet papers are pasted on walls, 374 -^" American Cruiser in the East doorposts, and lintels. Cakes and sweets, and all the toothsome wonders of the Celestial culinary ait, are produced. The coolie stops work, and the people appear in their best clothes. Settlements are made and debts are paid, so that all business transactions are settled and closed. Occasion- all\' a cracker or bomb is exploded, like the lonely blasts on the tin horn by our luchins at home, — just to let the world know the New Year is coming. As night advances, the din increases. Sampans and boats mo\-e down and up the ri\-er, with crackers firing, rockets ricochetting, drums and goni^s beatiiiLi;, and the whole ri\er and plain becomes a pandemoniimi of glaring lights, sounds, and hres. Suddenly a great sheet of red flame bursts forth and licks and lashes the hea\ens, — dense black smoke and \'olumes of hissing sparks curl and fly. The great guns boom, the bells ring oLit the fearful alarm, and the people shriek and cmse and run. A lighted cracker had fallen among some waste stuff, and for three mortal hours the cruel, relentless, massi\'c tongues of red flame snapped and roared and cracked ; while through and abo\'e them, ni\'riads ot bright hissing sparks arose and danced and tell. High up in the hea\'ens, a ^reat bank ot black smoke curled and rolled itself" about, and hung like an awful pall o\'er the doomed place. The re\'ellers were appalled, the noises ceased, and the ruer renamed its usual quiet. Fhe voices of the firemen and the shrieks of the women could be heard amid the roariiiL^ flames, and the pulse-beating sounds from the great steam-pumps \\'hich were sending streams of water from the riv'cr-fnjiit. The efforts of the stalwart fellows, with their little wooden hand-pumps and buckets, and the help of the great streams from the steamers, were unavailing. Thousands of houses and their contents had gone up in the flames which were urged on by the cruel monsoon. Acres of shapeless heaps of bricks marked the spot, and ten thousand men, women, and children were Canton, China 375 homeless wanderers on this festal night, this New Year's Eve. *'The^V(t^ld laiigliN with him who laughs, But lu- whu weeps niu^t \\eep alone/' Atter the lull, a bomb, a cracker, a rocket, gong, or drum, and the re\elrv was renewed upon the rner. Bombs and rockets were sent up from boat and citv, and cracked and flashed and sparkled in the air. The jolh' mirth of the glad went on through the ni^ht ; and the next ten nights and davs were gi\en o\'er to feasting and drmknig and io\ for the glad New Year. All business, public and pri\'ate, is suspended, for these da\-s the mails, the banks, e\'erything, is at a standstill duriim; the holiday. Canton has maintained her own army and na\"v, made and repelled attacks, and exercised all the tunctioiis of sovereignty in her own rights, in the \-ears that are gone. The chief exports from Canton are tea, silk, sugar, and cassia, and the chief imports are cotton, woollen, and metal goods, food stuffs, opium, and kerosene. The total \alue of the trade is 342,280,752, of which $22,328,632 are imports. The domestic trade is enor- mous, but no account of it is kept. There are 3,316 vessels enterintc and cleariny; the port each \ear. CHAPTER XXII THE GOVERNMENT AND PEOPLE OF CHINA KUANG-SII, Emperor of China, is the son of Prince Ch'un, the seventh son of the Emperor Tae Kuang, and is a cousin of the late Emperor Tung Chi, who died from small-pox on January 12, 1875. The present Emperor is the ninth of the Tartar dynasty of Tu-tsing, " Sublime Purity," which succeeded the native Ming dynasty in 1644. There is no law of hereditary succession to the throne, each Emperor naming his successor from among the members of his own family. The late Emperor, dying suddenly, in the eighteenth year of his age, did not designate a successor, but by an arrangement directed by the Empress Dowager and Prince Ch'un, the son of the latter was declared Emperqr by proclamation, ot which the following is a translation ; — "Whereas, His Majesty the Emperor has ascended upon the Dragon to be a guest on high, without offspring born to his inheritance, no course has been open but that of causing Tsai Tien, son of the Prince Ch'un, to become adopted as the son of the Emperor Weng Tsung Hien (Hien Fung), and to enter upon the inheritance of the great dynastic line as Emperor by succession. Therefore, let Tsai Tien, son of Yih Huan,the Prince of Ch'un, become adopted as the son of the Emperor Weng Tsung Hien, and enter upon the inheritance of the great dynastic line as Emperor by succession." Government and People of China 377 The Emperor Kuang-Sii assumed the government in February, 1887, was married to Yeh-ho-na-la, a niece of the Empress Dowager on February 26, 1889, and ascended the throne on March 4, i8go. The government of China is that of an absohite mon- archy. The Emperor is spiritual as well as temporal lord and master ot his people. He is regarded as the representa- ti\'e of Deit\', " the Son of Hea\en," and he alone with his ministers can perform the great religious ceremonies as High-Priest. No other ecclesiastical authority is recognized in the state, neither is any priesthood maintained at the pub- lic cost. The Constitution, or fundamental laws ot the Empire, is recorded in the Tu-tsing Huei-tien, " Collected Regula- tions of the Great Pure Dynasty," in which the govern- ment of the state is based upon that ot the family. The Interior Council has supreme authority in the administration of the go\'ernment, and is composed of tour members, two of Tartar and two of Chinese origin, with two legal ad\ isers from the Han-lin, " Great College," whose duty it is to see that nothing is done contrary to the laws of the Empire as contained in the " Collected Regula- tions," and in the books of Confucius. The members of the Interior Council are called Ta-Hsis-sz, Ministers of State, and thev are assisted by the Li-Pu, eight boards of government, who are under their immediate control. Each of these eight boards of government is presided o\er by a Tartar and a Chinese, and a censor must always be present at their meetings. The Boards are; l. The Board of Civil Appointments; 2. The Board of Revenue; 3. The Board of Rites and Ceremonies ; 4. The Military Board ; 5. The Board of Pub- lic Works ; 6. The Board of Criminal Jurisdiction ; 7. The Board of Admiralty ; 8. The Board of Foreign Affairs. 378 An American Cruiser in the East The Tu-clia-Yuan, " Board of Public Censors," is inde- pendent of the y;o\ernment, and theoretically is above the administration. It consists of about fifty members, and has two presiding oificers, one of Manchu and the other of Chinese birth. B\- ancient custom of the Empire, all the members of this Board ha\ e the right of presenting remonstrances to the Emperor. The dixisibility of the absolute power takes from it much of its danger, and pub- lic opinion, backed by the protests of the censors, pre- \'ents the Emperor from violating the rights of the subject. The censors ha\e often protested with a freedom and \'igor worthy of all praise. According to Confucius and his followers, the Empire is solely under the guidance ot Heaven : " Hea\'en is the only master of the nation." The so\'ereigntv is a holy mission committed to an indi\'idual tor the good ot the people, and it is withdrawn from him when he shows himself unworthy of the high trust. In times of re\'olution, the conflicts have been terrible until some decided adxantage has been gained, and the people, belie\ ing that Hca\en had withdrawn its smiles from its adopted son and shown the sign of a new power, ha\'e submitted to that authority without further (_|uestion. The Emperor, being the Son of Hea\en, is father of his people, and has a right to the worship of his subjects. He is absolute, can make and abolish the laws, make or degrade ofBcials, and has the power of life and death. He is the source of all power and authority, and can command the entire revenues of the Empire. The Emperor is sole proprietor ot the soil and can reco\'er possession for non-pa\'ment of taxes, or by confiscation, — for crimes coinmitted against the state. The so\-ereign can trans- mit his power to whomsoe\'er he pleases, as there is no law ot inheritance to restrain him; and, being the father of an immense family, he delegates his powers to his ministers. Government and People of China 379 who, in turn, appoint the interior officers of the go\ernment. This di\ision ot authorit\' extends downwards to groups of famihes, ot whieh the fathers are the natural heads, and just as absolute within their sphere. The Emperors, after death, like the ancient Egyptian Kina;^, are subject to a tiial, the \-erdict ot which, coupled with their names, tjoes down to tuture t:;enerations. R\' this means thc\' become known in histor\', and the \'erdict gi\es the estimate of their character. The literar\ aristocrac\- is an ancient institution which has become firmlv established, and gi\-es the government all its real and du'ect influence. Its numbers are increased each \ear by the examinations. Its members arc a pri\'i- le2;ed class, — almost the oiiK' nobilitv recognized ; and it is considered to be the ner\e and mainsta\- of the Empire, and appointments to ci\ il officers can onl\- be made from amono its members, under well-established laws. Any Chinese ma\" present himself for examination tot the thud degree. Those who are successful may take the second, which opens the way to the minor offices. Those who aspire to the hii^her offices must ha\'e been successful tor the first degree. The only hereditary titles of nobilit\- acknowledged in China are those of the Imperial family and the descendants of Confucius, to whom certain prerogati\-es and a small pension are allowed. They ha\c the right to wear a scarlet or yellow corselet, plumes of peacock leathers in the hat, and to have a certain number of chair-bearers, but they cannot be appointed to any office with(jut ha\ing taken the literarv degrees. Etry one sees on every hand, it would be impossible to find the means of supporting life for such an immense population. 388 An American Cruiser in the East Labor is caiet"ull\- and abundantly bestowed upon all pur- suits, — agriculture, manufactures, fisheries, and trade. Villages, \allevs, and plains are carefullv culti\'ated, irri- gated, and fertilized ; hills and mountains are terraced, and e\'ery square foot of ground that can be made producti\e is brought into use. The profession of agriculture has always been highly honored in this countr\'. Confucius and the sages ha\e celebrated and exalted it, and the Emperor nexer fails to render it homage. Towards the end of March, each \ear, the Emperor goes in state to the sacred field, accompanied bv three princes of the blood royal and a retinue of nobles. After ha\'ing offered sacri- fice upon the earthen altar, he lays his sacred hands upon the plough and traces a furrow. The princes and nobles follow his example and complete the field. Then the Em.peror, as high-priest, blesses the work and the field. In the provinces, a similar solemnity takes place, in which the Go\ernor represents the Emperor. Chinese agriculture is rarely conducted on a large scale, and the simplest tools are used, [n the south, buffaloes are used in idling the rice-fields ; while in the north, oxen, horses, mules, and asses are used, and it is a common sight to see a woman drawing the plough while the husband walks behind and guides it. At the end ot the furrow they both sit down to rest and smoke a little tobacco. The Chinese haye a passion for fertilizing the soil, and this is carried to great extremes, anNthing and e\'erything being used tor the purpose. Eyen barbers sa\'e the shayings and croppings of hair to sell to farmers for enrichment of the soil. Farmers often use the spade in preference to the plough, and weeds are exterminated as their dearest foe. The\' keep their places in beautiful order, and the neat appearance of their little lands compels the admiration of all beholders. In places too dry for rice, sweet yams and hemp wil' Government and People of China 389 be raised, and useful trees are planted in the corners, — the mulberr\', the chestnut, or some pines, according to the temperature. The Chinese farmer is nervous about his crop, his margin of profit being so small that he cannot afford to lose. He binds several stalks of rice together to give mutual support against the winds, he arranges little sticks, with " charmed " strings attached, to drive the birds away, and each field has such a " scarecrow " as would frighten oft any crow that li\es. He watches the weather, and when it is too hot and drv he co\ ers up his plants and irrigates the land ; he raises water from one reservoir to another, and by means of bamboo pipes runs it about his fields, — even up the moun- tain's sides. Archimedes' screw-pumps, chain-pumps, and bucket water-wheels are his implements; his feet supply the power. These water-wheels are of extreme lightness, and have little half-round buckets attached, which take up the water and pour it into large tanks, from whence it is run over the fields. The Chinese do not know what worn-out soil is. Some places are so fertile and are cultivated with so much care and skill that three or four crops a year are regularly gathered. W'hen the first crop is well along, the second is sowed, or planted, in the intervals between the ridges, and it is very common to see two crops in the same field at the same time. All the cereal and vegetable productions known in Canada, the United States, or Mexico, and many that we do not know, are found in China. Barley, wheat, buck- wheat, and maize are cultivated in the northern part, and rice in the southern part, besides a score or more in both. Rice is not the principal food of the inhabitants throughout the Empire. Wheat, buckwheat, Indian corn, and barley, form the daily food of the people in the northern and west- ern provinces, while rice is extensively used in the south. 39^ An American Cruiser in the East The method of preparing these cereals for food is about the worst that could be conceived. Little bunches oi dough are boiled in oil, or grease, and a half-cooked paste, strings of boiled dough, and rolls of putty-like material, that would be irritating to the stomach of an ostrich, are regarded as appetizing by these poor people. The bamboo is the most useful tree that grows in China, and there are said to be sixty-three varieties. These differ in diameter, height, distance of separation of the rings or sections, color and thickness of the wood, and in the roots, branches, and leaves. The bamboo is used for houses, fences, furniture, water-pipes, and for hundreds of useful and ornamental purposes. The beds of rivulets, marshes, and ponds are planted with tubers, water-lilies, and lotus. The cultivation ot vege- tables and fruits receives great attention and is encouraged by the government. Among the agricultural products of China we find, besides rice and tea, the wax-tree, camphor- tree, paper mulberry, the tallow-tree, varnish-tree, dragon's eye, star anise and jujube, many species of orange, cinna- mon, ginseng, cotton, sugar, and tobacco, — the whole range of vegetables and fruits, and a very large number of flowers. The manufacturing industry of the country is as wonder- ful as it is necessary for the support of the dense population. The silks, satins, crapes, embroideries, and gauzes have always attracted attention. The porcelains have only been equalled in the last few years, and the cottons and nankeens are famous. The many useful and ornamental articles of bamboo attract attention, and the furniture, instruments, and tools are commended for simplicity. The cunningly wrought and cast metal-work of the Chinese, their musical instruments, and their art in cutting and polishing hard stones are well known throughout the world. They are unrivalled in the production of unchanging colors, but they Government and People of China ^91 are losing their originality and cimnini; in tliis direction ; many specimens ot' antique manutacture tar surpass the work that can now be done. Owing to the pressure ot the dense population upon the means of subsistence, the Chniese eat an\ thing and c\er\- thing trom which the\' can deri\e nutrition. Diunkcnness is uncommon in China. Tea is uni\ersallv used. Thev have native wines, but these are too expensive tor common Camfl Caravan Bound for Peking. China. use. The people are temperate in all things, and unless working hard are content with two meals a da\-, — the morning rice at about ten a. m., and the evening nee at about ii\e p. M. Thev do not use milk, butter, or cream. Doo;s and cats are regularlv sold for food. 1 have seen dogs skinned, hanging hv the side of pigs and goats. Ah)n- keys, sea-slug, and birds' nests are aristocratic dishes, and unhatched ducks and chickens are much sought atter. An immense internal traffic is carried on bv means ot the numerous ri\crs and canals, and over the roads. The 392 An American Cruiser in the East roads are mere bridle-paths and tracks, and the transporta- tion of cjoods over them — on the backs of horses and mules — is a ver)- slow and difficult undertaking. In times of crop-failure and famine, the loss of life is fearful from the difficulty of getting food supplies to the sufferers. The densely populated portion of China is compara- tively level, and is remarkably well adapted for the con- struction of railroads ; but the Chinese, even in view of the great advantages to be thus obtained, seem unable to con- quer their prejudices against these conxeniences. The little railroad, only about ten miles long, connecting Woosung with Shanghai, constructed by a foreign company in 1876, was bought out and destroyed by the Chinese during the next year. The Kaiping Coal Company built a line of railway from their mines to the canal bank, afterwards extending it through Tientsin to Fungchow, near Peking. This is being extended from Tientsin to Shan-hai-kwan, and is used for passenger as well as freight traffic. Railway lines have been authorised bv the gov- erment to extend from New Chwang to Luisi, and from Hankow to Peking, but not much beyond the surxejs has been accomplished. All the important cities of the Empire are connected by telegraph and with the outside world by cable. The public re\enue of China is about three hundred and sixty millions of dollars, and there are almost always deficits, which must be covered by extraordinary taxation, although everything is cheap and the government has no large debts. The total number of foreign residents in China is 10,149, of whom 1,526 are natives of the United States. The principal dependencies of China are Mongolia and Manchuria, which contain a larger Chinese than native population. Thibet is also a dependency, subject to the government at Peking, and a Resident is maintained Government and People of China 39:5 at Lhassa. These dependencies ha\e an area of two and one third millions ot square miles, and a population of about twenty-three millions of inhabitants. The Chinese army has a total of one million men, including 678 companies of Tartar troops, 211 companies of Mongols and nati\-e Chinese (militia) infantry. The first grand di\ision is composed of Manchus, — the troops of the " Eicrht Banners," who o-arrison all the large cities and torts throughout the Empire. The second grand di\'ision is composed of Chinese, who, when not on acti\e dutv, live in their own homes, and follow some ci\'il occupation. With the dense population of China, and the system of registration, the army can be increased almost indefinitelv in numbers. The armv seems to be uncared for. It is badly or- ganized, drilled, and armed; and while there are some well- fortified strongholds in China, it is not possible for them to withstand successfully a determined assault or siege bv anv modern army. China e\idently relies upon her \'ast numbers, her dis- tance from any strong power likely to attack her, and the consummate ability of her ministers ; but she cannot afford to slumber thus in the face of the possibility of mobs and resolutions within her o\yn borders, and with neighbors who are restless under restraints which, they think, hinder their -de\'elopment and infringe upon the rights of their subjects. Diplomacy is always more potent when sup- ported by an efficient force. Until the year 1884 the Chinese na\\' consisted of a number of wooden war-junks, and a few small steel gun- boats of foreign style, which were built at the Mamori dock- yard, Shanghai, and at Foochow. Since that time, the nayy has been greatly strengthened. The greatest improve- ment is found to be in the northern fleet, which now in- cludes ten armored steel vessels of from 3,000 to 10,000 394 "^^^ American Cruiser in the East tons, having the most powerful machinery and modern breech-loadino; cruns. There are also maiiv steel cruisers, and gun and torpedo boats of the latest design ; but the weak points of the na\'y are in its personnel. The officers of many of these splendid vessels are composed of natives and foreigners, and there is \'er\' poor discipline among the crews. The foreigners are to supplement the want of knowledge on the part of the nati\'es, who do not com- prehend the possibilities of the great fighting machines, and therefore do not absolutely command them. No doubt, in case of need, there will be some splendid fight- ing and heroic deeds, — for the Chinese are brave men, — but there will be faulty handling and manoeuvring. Port Li (changed from Lu-Shew-kow, in honor of the viceroy, Li Hung Chang), situated on the southern coast of Shing-king, has been built up as a great naval station and dock-yard for the new fleet, and has been strongly fortified. There is also an excellent school where young men are educated in modern na\ al science. Every variety of soil and climate, in every degree of altitude, are to be found within the boundaries of China, — from the heated swamps below the sea-le\'el to the region of exerlasting trosts be\'ond the snow-line; and in these \'aried climates e\er\ thing for the comfort of man can be produced. Facilitv of communication by natural and artificial water- ways is not exceeded iji any country of the world, and the mineral resources ri\al those of our great western States. Iron ore is found in every province, and is so common that onlv the finest black magnetic ore is used; while gold, silver, tin, copper, and lead are plentiful. Sharpened b\' competition, the mental capacities of the people are wonderful ; their higher examinations are equal to any intellectual tasks set in America or Europe. Their statesmen hold their own with any in the world, and their Government and People of China 395 merchants gain ground over those of other nations. Their common people are painstaking, shrewd, and docile, and have great love ot order and respect for authority. Education among the males is common, and they possess all the factors requisite for success. This people have always been the ruling race in the far East, but lost their prestige bv failing to keep up with modern improvements. It is not characteristic ot the Chinese to remain stationary or to mo\e slowlv, but it is the result of circumstances, — the policy of their rulers. They ha\'e adopted some improvements that commend themsehes. The Buddhist religion is an importation from India, and quite a number of Chinese are Mahometans. Nearly two thousand vears ago the decimal system of notation was introduced bv the Buddhists, and they changed the ancient custom of writing from top to bottom for the Indian system of from right to left. Thev rearranged their calendar to accord with the ideas of western astronomers, and in recent years they have republished many works by foreign authors. Hospitals and free schools ha\e flourished for more than a thousand years, and \accination is practised by nati\'e physicians. Extensive arsenals ha\e been established at \'arious places and there is a large powder manufactory at Tientsin. The government is purchasing and building powerful war\'essels of the most improved types, and is beginning to arm and drill their forces after modern ideas. The Chinese are a progressive people. They have all the mental, moral, and religious instincts of our nature, with a keen perception of things conduci\'e to their interests and no prejudices to prevent their adoption. Some ot the statesmen fully realize the conditions,— the trend of these times, but appreciate the convulsions, overturnings, and untold misery to many millions of people that would necessarily follow the introduction of machinery, railways, s 396 An American Cruiser in the East and mining, on a large scale, or any radical change in dress, diet, and mode of life, and in their wisdom they choose to move slowly. Capital and enterprise are not lacking. America does not possess all the millionaires ; there are numbers ot them in China. Notwithstanding the low wages, the millions of people who are crowded off the land to live in boats, glad to get ten cents a day tor their labor, China has many multi-millionaires. Perhaps the richest man in the world is How Qua, a Cantonese, who is reputed to be worth a thousand millions of dollars. There are thousands of Chinese who would be only too glad of an opportunity to start up a new order of things if they could get the permission of their government; but it is fortunate for the people of America and Europe that the economic and political conditions of China exist there, and that changes are made so slowly. If her people, ac- customed as they are to their present social conditions, modes of life, and low wages, were to open up their mines and engage in manufacturing and mercantile pursuits on a large scale, they would soon become the exporters for the world. They could undersell all other people, and at the same time realize profits of which their people have never dreamed. To-day, hampered as they are by manual labor, rattle- trap looms, and slow methods, they do a comparatively extensive manufacturing, commercial, and banking business, and regularly declare dividends of from ten to twenty per cent in gold. The Chinese Language The Chinese is the only primitive language in use to- day. It is distinguished by its originality, and is used by more people than speak any other tongue. It is divided into two parts, the written and the spoken. The written Government and People ot China 397 language has no alphabet, but is a collection of written characters, representing ideas, or objects. The original characters were signs, or rather rude drawings, — pictures which represented objects. There were two hundred and fourteen of these, some for the heavens, others for the earth, • — for man, the parts of the body; domestic animals; the horse, the ox, the dog ; plants, trees, birds, fish, metals, etc. As their experiences enlarged, new wants made themselves felt, the language needed to be expanded, and a new ar- rangement made. The forms ot the rude drawings were changed, but the primitive strokes were retained ; and with these have been composed all the characters. By the combinations of the original characters were formed thou- sands of arbitrarv sounds. Natural objects are classed under the animal, tree, or plant which was the type of the original characters. The fox and the wolf were referred to the dog, and the hooted animals to the horse, etc. B\' their ingenious method, they formed real natural families. The name ot evcrv creature is made up of two parts, one denoting the kind, the other relatino- to the species, — indicating the peculiarities ot shape, the habits, or the use that can be made of the object. It would appear \'cry diificult to represent abstract ideas and acts of the understanding bv such a svstem, but the difficulties have been ingeniously met. Two pearls, one beside the other, express the idea of a friend, because it is difficult to find two pearls alike. To express anger, a heart surmounted by a slave is represented. There are great numbers of characters, the analysis of which is very interesting ; but for many of the words, the characters are arbitrary. The whole number of characters amounts to about forty thousand, but less than one third of that number are used. The characters are written one above the other, in a vertical line, beginning at the right of the page. 39 8 An American Cruiser in the East When the words are correctly intonated and properly modulated, the speech is musical. The Chinese language has no grammatical construction. There are some well-understood rules by which sentences are constructed and words placed in proper apposition to other words in the same sentence ; but the verb has no mood, tense, person or inflection of any kind ; the noun has neither gender, number, nor case ; and a word is sub- stantive, verb, or adjective, singular or plural, masculine or feminine, according to its position, or connection, in the sentence. The meaning of a passage can be determined onlv by close attention to the relati\'e position of the words in each sentence, and by a knowledge of the idioms. The forty thousand written characters are expressed by about four hundred and eleven vocables; and many characters, when pronounced, ha\c precisclv the same sound to an unpractised ear. To a\'oid ambiguity, and as far as possible to distinguish one character from another in common con- versation, the Chinese have a system of tones, so that each vocable is capable of being pronounced in six or eight dif- ferent ways ; and another method of clearly expressing their meaning is the combination of two words, having relation to each other in point of signification. ^ Ml m'm' ^j^-^^^-^^^Wm ^^^^^^%m($i u-|,-»*^-^-~^._^ .■ n , '. . 1 1 HONG-KONG. CHAPTER XXIII HONG-KONG, CHINA HA\'ING taken the last picture and the last stroll through the lah\'rinth of cra/,v streets anil quauit shops of old Canton, and ha\ing said good-b\e to the dear friends on Shamien, we retraced our sex ent\-ti\ e niHes ot river navigation through the " obstructions," the " Tiger's Mouth," and the " Lvmoon Pass," and dropped our anchors in the green waters of Hong-kong harbor, — off Victoria, the capital and chief town of the colonv. Wc were soon surrounded b\' hundreds of brown, gavlv decked sampans, with their picturesque crews of women, girls, and children, shrill-voiced and barefooted, who live the dax's through, sculling, sailing, and steering; dri\iiig sharp bargains with the sailors, and gossiping with their neighbors. 400 An American Cruiser in the East Great war vessels, merchant steamers, sailing craft, and junks crowd the harbor; while the upper end of the island is lined with junks that swarm with coolies engaged in unloading and loading, — merrily singing as they toss off great loads of rice, or coal, or some huge piece of machinery. Hong-kong is mountainous, and shows volcanic origin in its low, granite ridges, bleak, barren valleys, narrow strips of level coast-line, and lofty overhanging precipices, where the monsoons cut and grind and burn. Here the typhoon shrieks its horrid wails as it lashes mighty ships, frail junks, and little sampans to destruction; or a pall of fog hangs between the granite hills and the sea. The prospect is wild, dreary, and monotonous, with barren, treeless hills, where no natural green thing smiles back to the sun in tender acknowledgment of o-oodness. Hong-kong is one of the Ladrone (" Thieves ") group of islands, so named for having been a place of resort for pirates and thieves in " the good old times." It is situated seventy-five miles southeast of Canton, in latitude 22°4' north, and longitude 114° 6' east. It was ceded to the British in 1 841, to be used as a depot for repairing and refitting their vessels, and as a place of refuge for dis- tressed seafaring people. It is irregular in form, about ten miles and a half long, and has a breadth varying from two to five miles, with an area of about thirty square miles. It is separated from the mainland of China by a body of water known as Hong-kong Roads, which narrows down to about one quarter of a mile in width at the Lymoon Pass. On the southern coast, two bold strips of land extend into the sea and form the harbors of Deep Bay and Tyam Bay, and the little island of Aberdeen shelters a fine harbor which is supplied with fine dock-yards and extensive machine-shops. Hone-kone, China 40: Victoria, the capital and commercial port, is situated on the northwest end of the island. It is laid out with tine wide roads and terraces. The residences occupied by Europeans are large and commodious, having, with their broad \'erandahs and beautiful artificial gardens, an air of elegant refinement. The houses of the Chinese are of brick, covered with mortar, and are much superior in ap- The Queen's Road, Hong-kon'G. pearance to houses found in the Chinese cities ; but they are not suited to the climate, being damp and unhealthy, and breeding malaria and fevers. Society is ceremonious and exacting, and is led by the occupants of the government house, who maintain a little court after British fashion. The city of Victoria extends for about three miles along the bay shore, and thence up the sides of the hills, where it loses itself in terrace on terrace, which are reached by 26 40 2 An American Cruiser in the East winding roads, or broad flights of granite steps. Here and there a lovely villa or mansion marks the boundary, and the hotels and groups of elegant homes that comb " Mount Austin " reach down to meet the Queen-named town. The colony is ruled by a royal Governor, with an Executive Council, composed of the Colonial Secretary, the Commander of the troops, the Attorney-General,' and the Auditor-General. The Legislative Council, presided over by the Governor, is composed of all the members of the Council (except the Commander), with the addition of four unofficial members, who are appointed by the crown,, on the recommendation of the Governor. The Praya, the road along the bay-front, extends from the parade to the extreme northwest end of the town, and is lined with fine shops and storehouses, while its roadway is crowded with busy men and women. The Queen's Road is lined on both sides with fine shops, filled with beautiful and rare wares from every part of China, Japan, India, and Africa. Silks, crapes, gauzes, cabinets, ivories, lacquers, porcelains, precious stones, rare filigree in gold and silver, and cunning work in camel's hair and fine wools, are lavishly displayed to tempt the traveller; and the roadway swarms with a motley crowd of Europeans, Jews, Japanese, Koreans, Alahometans, Hindoos, Malavs, Javanese, Parsees, Sikhs, Cingalese, Negroes, halt-castes, and everywhere that unfortunate Chinese coolie, — the drudge, the bearer of the world's loads and burdens. The "Sikh" policeman, in dark blue, with immense scarlet turban, stands " attention " at the corner of the road. White-robed " ayahs " and Koreans stride from shop to shop, while the pedlers cry their wares. Everybody is talking in this great Babel. " Tommy Atkins," the high private, with cap on ear and switch in hand, swaggers up the road, the observed of all obser\'ers. A picturesque group of little musiimes from " Dai Nippon " chaperone Hong-kong, China 403 Chinese and Hindoo maidens thiough the mazy road. Parsees, Chinese, and Koreans discuss money, stocks, and the latest rumors from Seoul. The Turlc and the Ja\'anese hold a hot discussion. The childlike and bland Cingalese unfolds his pack, and displays beautiful emeralds, moonstones, cat's-eyes, sapphires, and diamonds that are \yorth a king's ransom, but can be purchased tor a few shillings ; and the The Water-Front, Ho\g-ko\g, in a Fog. small boys in pigtails toss the shuttlecock with knee, heel, and elbow. Victoria has most of the modern improvements. Elec- tricity, gas, and oil illuminate its streets. A cable-car line extends up the side of the hills, some fourteen hundred teet, to " Mount Austin," where summer houses and two tine hotels have been erected, and water is abundantly supplied from a reservoir holding seventy-five million gallons. The water-front is being extended out into the bay three hundred feet, where a massive granite retaining wall is being built. 404 An American Cruiser in the East The intervening space will be filled in with soil, to enlarge the narrow strip of level land upon which the business portion of the city is located. The palaces of the Governor and the Bishop, the City Hall, the Cathedral, the Museum, the Exchange, the Hong- kong Hotel, the Club Germania, the Hong-kong Club, the Botanical Garden, the Hospitals, the Barracks, the The Parsee Cemetery in the Happv \'alley, Hong-kong. Government dock-vard, the parade and recreation grounds, are all very interesting to visit, as well as the fine schools which range from the primary grades to the college, and are for both sexes and all conditions. The Bowen and Kennedy roads, and the aqueducts and military roads, that almost encircle the heights, are great engineering works. The English planted on this bold, barren rock, which nature hurled up from the bottom of the sea, their roads, their hedges, their gardens, and much quiet elegance, and this is their home. Hong-kong, China 405 " KUHLAN, 1855" In a gloomy spot, at the toot of the hill where begins the deep cut to the Happy Vallev, stands a monument commemorative of one of the few events in which Ameri- cans and Britons stood shoulder to shoulder, and shared the dangers, death, and glory of conflict. The monument is of granite, about sixty Teet high, surrounded by a handsome wrought-iron railing well shaded by four old trees, and bears the following inscription ; — " ERECTED BY THE OFFICERS AND CREWS OF THE UNITED STATES STEAM FRIGATE ' POWHATAN ' AND H. B. M. STEAM-SLOOP ' RATTLER,' IN MEMORY OF Their shipmates who fell in a combined attack on a fleet of piratical Junks oft' Kuhlan, August 4th, 1855." " KILLED IN THE ACTION. ■ Rattler.' ' Powhatan.' George Mitchell, A. B. John Pepper, Seaman. James Silvers, Carpenter's crew. James A. Hai.sey, Land, John Massey, Gunner, R. M. A. Isaac Coe, Landsman M. Oliff, Private, R. A. S. Mullard, Marine sman. B. F. Addamson, Marine." From that day to this, no military procession has e\-er passed the spot without halting, while the band plays the "Star Spangled Banner," "God Save the Oueen," and a solemn dirge, in memory of the brave fellows who sleep there. To the southward, whether vou go bv the deep cut, over the hills and through the valleys, or turn from the dock-yard 4o6 An American Cruiser in the East and skirt along the Praya, the scenery is varying and grand beyond description. The Happy Valley, which is the pride of the colony, is a vast amphitheatre, with racecourse and cricket-ground in its centre, and behind the grand stand are the English, Catholic, Jewish, Mahometan, and Parsee cemeteries, with their beautifully shaded walks, clumps of palms, and strange, luxurious tropical growths and blooms, with here and there a stately pile, or stone, to mark the resting-place of some member of the silent majority. How full these cemeteries are ! It is only about fifty years since the white man unfurled his banner and took possession of the island, but in that time the " Happy \'alley " has swallowed up her victims bv hundreds and bv thousands. The ride back to the city is delightful, but one becomes a little serious while pondering over the causes that ha\ e filled these cemeteries in so short a time. Victoria is remarkably quiet and orderly. The streets are guarded by a toice ot Indian sepoys, and after eight o'clock in the evening the Chinese must gi\'e account of their movements. The mode of conveyance is by chairs, open or closed, and jinrikishas, which give employment to the coolie who Is alwa\s soliciting your patronage. Victoria has many industries, in the range of European and Chinese manufactures and art. Besides the hundreds of handiwork establishments, there is a large sugar refinery, rum distillery, a jute mill, an extensive paper mill, and an ice manufactory. Each year large sums of public money are expended for improvements, including fortifications ; and the extension of military and public roads, sewerage and drainage, gives employment to large numbers of coolies. Two daily and three weekly newspapers are published in the English language, and there is one Chinese bi-daily, besides a Portuguese weekly. Hong-kong, China 407 Aberdeen, Hong-kong The Aberdeen dry-docks are situated at the head of an inlet on the south side of the island. The entrance is easy and safe, and the anchorage is excellent. The docks are substantially built of granite. Hope Dock was opened in 1867, and has a length, o\ er all, of four hundred and thirty- three feet; its breadth at entrance is eighty-four feet; its depth, o\-er sill, at ordinary spring tides, twenty-four feet. Rise of tides, spring, seven feet six inches. Lamont Dock, also at Aberdeen, was opened in i860. It has a length, over all, of three hundred and forty feet ; its breadth at entrance is sixty-tour teet ; its depth, over sill, at ordinary spring tides, sixteen teet. Rise ut tide, spring, se\en feet six inches. There are extensi\e building and repair shops connected with these docks. KowLOON, China Kowloon is a \'ast, slightly undulating plain, on the main- land of China, on the opposite side ot Hong-kong Roads, and faces the island of Hong-kong. It has been neatly laid out and built up with fine public buildings and resi- dences, has a irarrison ot Indian troops, and is considered to be a suburb of Victoria, with which it is connected by little steam ferry-boats. Fine granite drv-docks and patent slips for hauling up vessels are hicated here. They are in close proximity to the shipping, and are well protected on all sides. The approaches to the docks are perfectly sate, and the immediate \ icinity affords excellent anchorage. Powerful shears of eighty feet, to lift fort)' tons, stand on a wharf, alongside of which vessels can lie in from twenty to twenty-two feet of water. The depth of low- water springs in the shallowest part of the bay, in front of the docks, is thirty-nine feet. 4o8 An American Cruiser in the East No. I Dock, Kowloon, has a length, over all, of five hundred and thirty feet ; breadth at entrance, eighty-six feet top, seventy feet bottom; depth, over sill, at ordinary spring tides, thirty feet; rise ot tide, spring, seven feet six inches. H. i\l. S. " Imperieuse," of eighty-four hundred tons, is the largest vessel ever docked here. The dock can be filled in one hour, and pumped out in three hours. No. 2 Dock, Kowloon, was opened in 1866. Length, o\'er all, three hundred and forty feet ; breadth at entrance, seventy-four feet ; depth, over sill, at ordinary spring tides, eighteen feet ; rise of tide, spring, seven feet six inches. The S. S. " Glenartney," of 2,107 tons, is the largest vessel ever docked here. No. 3 Dock, Kowloon, was opened in 1866. Length, over all, two hundred and forty-five feet ; breadth at en- trance, 43.3 teet ; depth, over sill, at ordinary spring tides, thirteen teet ; rise of tide, spring, seven feet six inches. The S. S. " Douglas," of 1,373 tons, is the largest vessel ever docked here. Patent Slip No. i, Kowloon, was opened in 1888. Length, over all, two hundred and fifty feet; breadth at entrance, sixty feet ; depth, over sill, at ordinary sprino- tides, eleven feet ; rise of tide, spring, seven feet six inches. The ship "Napiei," of 1,235 tons, is the largest \'essel ever taken on this slip. Patent Slip No. 2, Kowloon, was opened in 1892. Length, over all, two hundred and thirty feet ; breadth at entrance, sixty feet ; depth, over sill, at ordinary spring tides, eleven feet. Vessels can be placed on the slip in two and a half hours. The Cosmopolitan Dock is located on the Kowloon side ot the harbor, about two miles from the centre of Victoria. The depth of low-water springs is twentv-six feet in the shallowest part of the bay. The anchorage is safe, and it is better protected from typhoons than any other portion of Hong-kong, China 409 the port. The dock is substantialK built of granite, was opened in 1877, and has a length, over all, of four hundred and fitty-six feet; breadth at entrance, eighty-fix e feet; depth, over sill, at ordinary spring tides, twenty feet ; rise of tide, spring, se\ en feet six inches. The Steamer "City of Tokio," ot 5,079 tons, is the largest vessel ever docked here. These docks and slips are all under the same manage- ment. The work-shops, at each, ha\ e every appliance necessary tor the repairs of \'essels or their machinery, — lathes, planing, screwing, cutting, punching and hydraulic riveting machines, etc., etc., — capable of executing work on the largest scale. The shipwright's, boiler-maker's, machine, and blacksmith's shops, and the foundries, are all well equipped to execute the largest work with quick despatch. Se\eral powerful steam-tugs are always ready for service. B)- the rules of these docks, \'essels using their own materials and men to make repairs, while in dock, are charged fifteen per cent on the \alue of the labor, and ten per cent on the \ alue of materials, except sheathincr and nails, on which the charge is fi\'e per cent. Hong^-kong owes its importance to the fact that it is the militaiT and naval headquarters ot the British forces in this quarter of the globe. It is also the prominent banking- centre of the far East. It is the central port for trade in sugar, flour, salt, ship supplies, and granite, and has a larger opium trade than anv other port in that part of the world. The scenery is wild and drearv. Attempts have been made to cultivate rice and sweet yams, but e\'en the Chinese cannot make them prow in sufficient quantities to supply the foreign residents. The orange, mango, and lichie grow in well-sheltered spots. 7\jrtoises, b(jas, and se\eral species of poisonous snakes are found about the island, and a 41 o An American Cruiser in the East troublesome white aiit burrows into woodwork and cuts the heart out of it. Hons;-kong is not a healthy place. Malaria is given out from its decomposing granite hills, kidney diseases are prevalent, and deadly cuts and sores will not heal (surgical cases are sent abroad for cure), and catarrh is one of the nuisances of the island. The temperature ranges from 56' to 84 ' Fah. The mean temperature throughout the vear is about 73" P'ah., but is modified by the mon- soons. The annual rainfall is about 59 inches. In 1 841, the population was 5,000, which has increased bv emigration to about 225,000, ot whom 6,000 are Americans and Europeans (including all the troops), and 219,000 Asiatics, of whom the Chinese are the most numerous. About 25,000, in addition, li\-e in boats scat- tered about in the immediate \'icinit\-. The Chinese government maintains a Heet ot small revenue cutters in Hong-kong waters, to prevent opium and salt smuggling. From Victoria Peak, — 1,835 feet high, — where the British Jack is alwa\s fl\ ing, the view is interesting and grand. On one hand stretches the everlastingly restless sea, surging and dashing against the rocks and islets of the Ladrone group; yonder. Mount Steakeuse, on the island of Lamma, two miles distant, stands 1,140 feet high ; and sleepy old China is grand but m\-sterious, without bright- ness, — no greens or golds, silvers or pinks, blues or pearls, but just the dull, heavy red, like the ball the dragon tosses upon her own flag. The sun sinks be- hind the paddy-fields into the west, the twinkling lights, away down in the city and on the bay, admonish us, and when we enter the cable-car and are whirled down, ajid still down, the side of the hill, the romance is gone before we reach the city. RESIDE^'CE OF THE TARTAR GENERAL, NtW ClIWA.NT,, CHINA. CHAPTER XXIV M^CAO, CHINA ATRIP from Hong-kong to Macao in one of the untidv little steamers which pK' between the ports is very interesting and enio\able. When the frantic veils of the officers, the bhjwing of steam, and the tooting of the whistle ha\'e ceased, the little craft heads for the Lvmoon Pass, and all is quiet (jn board except the pulsat- ing throbs of the exhausting steam. \\ c lun betueen scenes in brown and gra\-, leaden, wild, and weird, and the undulating motion ot the e\-er-rest!ess sea causes the little craft to dance upon the waters. Picturesque groups and crowds unwittinglv pose about the decks, — Portuguese, Chinese, and half-breeds, who make up the list of pas- 412 An American Cruiser in the East sengers. The ever-changing groups are studies that leave pleasant memories ; and long after the journey is done, we smile at the recollections of this or that incident of the trip. Like all other harbors in this part of the world, Macao swarms with gay sampans, with their queer little shrines and mirrors and pictures, half-Christian, half-Buddhist. A strange mixture of beliefs ha\'c come through poor old China, and in coming have brought the soil with them, — religion musty and soiled. The town is situated on the southern extremity of the island of Hiang-shang, on a point of land formed by the intersection of the Chu-kiang with the Heung-kiang, in latitude 2 2° north, and longitude 132° east. The gavlv colored, flat-roofed houses, red and blue and green, make a quaint little city, which nestles between bold, bleak, black rocky hills. The old Portuguese forts, with their ancient guns frown- ing upon the river, are more picturesque than awe-inspiring in these days of rifle-guns and long ranges. The Praya Grande (here evcr\thing is '^ grande ") is the promenade of the place, where the belles and the beaux of old Macao take their airings, passing before the palace, and among the little shops and gambling saloons which border its animated road. The old church of St. Paul has braved monsoons, t\phoons, fiery flames, and earthquakes since 1594. St. Paul, with its deep-toned organ, and the old Hospital of the Misericordi, stand as living protests, — the cross against the lotus. After climbing the rocks and bowlders beyond the city, we reach the grotto of poor Camoens, the real object of our pilgrimage. Strewn with great granite bowlders, abraded and shorn by monsoon and typhoon, the spot is as wild as nature made it, — although trees and shrubs and vines have been transplanted, so that men of these latter times may not see the place in its native bareness. Sitting here, where Camoens wrote his immortal " Lusiad," Macao, China 413 to recount the glories of his beloved Portugal, although an exile from her shores, we must admire the man, so filled with patriotism. The history of Camoens is interesting. He was born in Lisbon in 1524. Of noble parentage, well educated, with classical attainments, witt)', courteous, and handsome, he was welcome at the Portuguese court, where he met the )outh and beauty of the land. Here he soon became a fa\'orite with the fair sex, while his sarcasm incurred the hatred of his own. Camoens formed a romantic passion for a lady of the court. The lady had a suitor whom her parents fa\ored, and when Camoens's passion became known to them, their influence procured his banishment from the court. Our poet joined the forces, went to Africa, and engaged in the war against the Moors, in which he lost his rieht eve. In 1550 he returned to Lisbon. In 1553 he had trouble with an officer of the ro\-al household. The officer and two ot the poet's triejids were rollicking, when a dispute arose, and the poet came to the rescue. The officer received a sword-thrust in the neck, and the friends ran off. Camoens was thrown into prison, but was soon released on promising to leave the country. He started tor the East Indies, and arrived at Cjoa in time to join a force against the Purientas, where he did some good service. He returned to Goa in the following year, but, giving loose rein to his caustic pen, he incensed the authorities and was banished. He found his way to Macao, and in the solitude of this grotto passed his days in writing the " Lusiad," recounting the virtues of his faithful Javanese slave Antonio, — the poor sla\e, who, in strange lands, among strange people, tended Camoens so devotedly and with such solicitude, through exile, tempest, and wreck, who begged for him, and who tenderly closed his hungering, weary eyes in death. 414 An American Cruiser in the East Returning to Goa, Canioens and his faithful slave were wrecked near the mouth of the river, and on their arrival were cast into prison. In Goa, Camoens received news of the death of his beloved, news which crazed him ; but the devoted Antonio guided him through his sorrow. Camoens was at last released from prison, and after seventeen years of weary exile he returned to Lisbon, where he was quar- antined for a year on account of the plague, which had carried off more than fifty thousand people. When he landed, he went to see his poor old mother, and then made arrangements for the publication ot the " Lusiad." Its publication excited the malice of jealous poets, but Camoens knew little of this, as he lived a retired life, and his friends were only a few fathers of the convent ot Santa Ana. After the year 1578, he was reduced to extreme poverty, and on June 10, 1580, he died in a small, cheerless room, in a miserable house in the Rua dc Santa Ana. After the death of Camoens, Fra Jose Indio, a Carmel- ite monk, wrote these lines on a fly-leaf of a first copy of the " Lusiad " : — " What thing more griexous than to see so great genius lacking success ! I saw him die in a hospital in Lisbon, without a sheet to co\er him, after ha\ing triumphed in the Indies, and having sailed five thousand five hundred leagues by sea. What warning so great for those who, by night and dav, weary themsehes in studv without profit, like the spider weaving the thread to catch small flies." In 1557, the Portuguese, in return for their services in combating pirac\', were permitted to form a settlement on the peninsula. The Jesuit missionaries set up the cross, and in 1575 the Chinese built the wall across the island to separate this settlement from the rest of China. In S ^S^, a government was formed for the settlement, and in 1628, Jeronimo de Silveria became the first royal Governor. The Chinese claim that they have always retained control over Macao, China 415 the settlement through Mandarins, and have never sur- rendered their territorial sovereign rights. The royal Governor, De Amaral, in i 849, declared that the Mandarins had no more authorit\' than the rcprescntati\'es of any other Woman of Northern China. foreign nation. De Amaral was assassinated in the same year, but his successors have continued his policy, although the Chinese government refuses to recognize the claim. The European powers consider Macao a de facto colony, and the King of Portugal appoints all the officers, includ- 41 6 An American Cruiser in the East ing the Chinese magistrates. Macao has been occupied by British forces to prevent its seizure by the French. There are 6,050 inhabitants of European extraction in Macao, 60,617 Chinese li\'ing on the land, and about 11,000 in boats. Vhe people are engaged in commercial and agricultural pursuits, and nearl\' all the land is under cultivation. Macao has been a tree port since 1846. The preparation and packing of tea is the most important in- dustry of the port, and there is a good trade in Chinese manufactured goods from Canton. Gambling and opium dens are numerous, and are openly carried on. The total value of the trade of the port is $15,000,000. The revenue is largelv made up from taxes on gambling tables, and small dues and fines. CHAPTER XXV MANILA, PHILIPPINE ISLANDS ON the afternoon of March 12, we ran out of Hong- kong roads, and anchored under the lee of a barren httle rock. On the following morning, we had target prac- tice with great and small guns, -rifles, and revoK'ers ; after which we picked up our targets, and headed out tor Manila. After lea\'ing the fogs and gloom of Hong-kong, halniy air fresheneil into good topsail-breezes, dro\'e ofl' the chill, and gave us all new life. Even the old ship — as sail was made, and the engines put out of use — dashed ahead and bumped into the seas as though she enio)ed the delightful bath. During the middle watch of the l6th, we lost the wind, but the hea\y swell of the sea remained, and the \ esse! became a little too sporti\ e for our comfort. Fellows were pitched out of their bunks in a \er\' uncei-emonious fashion, and furniture and crockery were sent about the decks at a rate dan^crcjus to our limbs and our pockets. We were not slow in gettint^ the engines connected, and going ahead with them. For the first two or three hours, after stalling up, the vessel rolled deeper than before. Sleep was out of the question, and we wandered about the mess-room like white- robed spirits, securing the nois\' articles, and declaring that we would gladiv " sell our farms" and come to sea, where we could always have such pleasant surroundings and so much comfort. 27 41 8 An American Cruiser in the East On the morning of the 17th, we sighted Luzon, and ran along Manila Bay, in full view of the land. For miles we ran almost beside the beautiful white surf-washed beach, which met the low, rolling land, and lost itself on the sides of great mountains, that rear their black heads full five thousand feet into the clouds. We reached the outer harbor at about noon, and anchored there. Manila, the capital of Luzon, as well as of the Philippine Islands, is situated on the eastern side of the Bay of iVlanila, at the mouth of the Pasig River, in latitude 14° 36' north, and longitude 120° 52' east. The immediate surrounding coun- try is low, rolling land, almost flat, and being bare of vege- tation in the dry season has a barren appearance. The Mafonso and Mateo Mountains form the background for Manila, and gi\e color and variety to the otherwise monoto- nous scenery. Old Boreas and Neptune paid their respects to us on our first night in the port, in the form of a little blow. The sea dashed into our ports, drowning out some of the rooms ; and after the ports were closed it became so intoler- ably hot that it was impossible to sleep in the ship. The next morning we made a trip to the shore. After crossing the bay in the steam-cutter, we entered the Pasig River, between the grim old Spanish fort and the massive granite lighthouse which guard the entrance. Keeping on up the ri\'er for about a mile, passing between and dodging lines of busy shipping, where unloading and loading was being done, we heard all the noise and witnessed the confusion made by Spanish sailors and longshoremen, — poor fellows ' — who cannot lift a weight without an ac- companying yell or song, in which the song is seven-eighths yell and one-eighth music. We landed on a flight of granite steps at the custom- house, and were assailed — but in a friendly way — by a crowd of natives, anxious to serve us in almost any capacity : ijss; Manila, Philippine Islands 421 to act as guides o\er the citv, to sell the lucky number in the lottery, cakes, fruits, or cigars, or to furnish teams to see the sights. After some parley, we entered a trap driven by a native and drawn by a pair of lively little ponies, and started off" for the Club. Our dri\'er more than earned his tare by the vigorous manner in which he conducted his part ot the expedition. He would strike at the flank of one pony and then at the other, all the while yelling as if the cit\' were on fire, and he driving the only fire-engine in the place. We soon discovered this to be a ruse, a cheap way of showing his importance and zeal. The dash-board and not the ponies received the blows, and the yelling is simply a Manila fashion. It became evident that the Jehu did not know where the club-house was ; neither did we, and as the day was hot, the trap comfort- able, and we were seeing interesting, novel sights, we let him dri\e on at will. After wandering about in this fashion, we dashed up a street where the " Stars and Stripes " were floating over our Con- sulate ; and through an open window we saw our repre- sentative decked in all the glory of full dress, ready for a dinner at eight. He was slowly pacing the floor, trying to keep cool, with the mercury bobbing 100' in the shade. The Consulate ga\ e us the bearing of the Club, and we headed directly for it, soon arrived, and laid ourselves out in long easy-chairs under the " punkhas," which the coolies kept moving at a vigorous rate, wafting gentle breezes o\er us, as we enjoyed the perfection of laziness, while awaiting the preparation of luncheon. After having given the ponies a breathing spell and the Jehu time to rest his lungs, we re-entered the trap and started off to see the sights. The Pasig River divides Manila into two parts, which are connected by a fine old stone bridge and a handsome suspension bridge. 42 2 An' American Cruiser in the East The old city, the Plaza de Manila, is enclosed by the walls of the old fort, and is entered by low, arched gateways. Its streets are broad and very clean, and run at right angles to each other; but as there are neither shops nor traffic, they are dull and gloomy, only brightened by the many little parks of refreshing green, and by the tinkling bells of the poor car-horses who are beaten through them. The Governor's palace, the administration building, and the cathedral face a large garden of beautiful tropical flowers, which shed their fra- gi ance about a colossal bronze statue of Don Carlos IV. of Spain. The University and Academy of Arts, the arsenal, mint, museum, hospitals, many churches, and religious houses are also within the gloomy walls of the city. Outside the city walls, hand- some villas, situated in beauti- ful grounds, extend along the roads for miles. La Luna is a prome- nade lacing the bay, where all Manila resorts in the evening, to hear the bands play, the opposite side of the river, contains extensive warehouses filled with the products of these islands and with wares from all parts of the world the Escalto, lined with gay Chinese shops, the native suburb, which struggles for miles up the river, the busy Beriondo, and the fashionable San Miguel. An Indian W.arrior of the Fhilippine Islands. " New Manila," oi Manila, Philippine Islands 423 Dashnig over the moss-co\'ci'cd stone bridge which spans the Pasig, thence along the ri\ cr's banl<;, bv the old, cracked citv wall and the monument to Magellan, and under the low archway in the wall, we found our spirited little ponies trottincT through the consecrated streets of old Manila. We Natives of Manila, Philippine Islands. kept on through the sleepv streets to the cathedral, a mas- sive old pile of granite, in the composite stvle of architec- ture, Romanesque, with Corinthian cornice. Founded in 1575, one hundred and fourteen years after Columbus discovered America ; several times shattered, wrecked, and 424 An American Cruiser in the East rebuilt, — it now stands (surrounded by the noblest speci- mens of architecture in Manila), bearing the scars and rents of the earthquakes of 1863 and 1880. Venerable, historic, and altogether grand, the old bat- tered walls still enclose and guard beautiful chapels and altars, the grand choir and organ, the golden throne, the cunningly wrought statues, and wonderful paintings, — all magnificent fittiniis for this old Christian church in this far- eastern isle. Inanimate witness of masses, glorias, and triumphs in the fair days, when the people had cause for thanksgivings and rejoicings for bounteous harvests, the stay ot the pestilence, or some triumph of the Spanish arms, or the witness ot miserv and heart-rending distress, when terror- stricken women and half-dazed men flocked here and prayed to Heaven to stay the rumbling and quaking earth, that rent and shattered massive piles of man's handiwork, tore great rents in the earth, and swallowed up hundreds and thousands of people, burying them from the sight of their fellows forever. With its scars and rents, its chime of sonorous bells, and with clusters of old trees growing from its top and sides, the cathedral bell tower (now a ruin) stands like a solitary sentinel on the opposite side of the street. The native ringer, stationed within its walls, rings out the half- hours upon the musical chimes, by time measured with a Yankee clock which has superseded the ancient hour- glass. The onlv modern thing in the \icinity, besides the clock, is the colossal bronze statue of Don Carlos IV. of Spain, in robes of state, which stands in a handsome garden of flowers, facing the cathedral. The inscription on the pedestal reads, — ■ "IN GRATITUDE FOR THE INTRODUCTION OF VACCINATION IN THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS." f- Manila, Philippine Islands 425 The noble pile of moss and creeper-co\'ered granite vender is the ruin of the palace, another result of the earthquake. The top and front of the building were thrown down, lea\ ing the grand stone stairway exposed, like an ascent to some old tomb. These ruins are in the centre of a noble park of luxuriant growth. It is said that on moonlight nights, in the monsoon season, shadows from the tree's thrown across stairwa\' and park appear like a procession of black-robed monks wandering about the ruins. The superstitious nati\es stare with frightened eyes, and run in wonder and awe from the mysterious apparition. All about the citv there are ruins of fine houses that were thrown down by the earthquake, and have remained untouched since that time. The Church of the Sacred Heart is a magnificent pile, long and broad and high. Its exterior is plain and unpre- tentious, like the ecclesiastic architecture of old Spain and Mexico, and the missions of California ; but its interior is encased with exquisitely carved sandal-wood, the work of native Christians of India, from designs furnished by nati\'e priests here. There are no gorgeous greens, golds, and scarlets, or bold, grotesque carvings, such as we see in the Buddhist temples, but beautiful reliefs and bas-reliefs that tell the stories of the Saviour, the Apostles, and Fathers of the Church. A great cabinet of sweet-scented woods is so finely executed as to bear the glass. Each section and panel is a wonderful work of art, and the whole a collection of masterpieces. There are a few fine old historical paintings in the Church of Santo Domingo. One represents the murder of the priests in 1260 by the Arabians, on the Pescadores. On the opposite side of the doorway a painting represents a number of priests assembled, in the sanctuary, around the mutilated body of a white man, while the heavens are open, and the priests hold consultation with the Holy 426 An American Cruiser in the F/ast Family. The light was poor, and we could not decipher the inscription upon this very old and dim picture. On one side of a chapel, there is a fine painting of the "Jesuits preaching to the Japanese," and a picture opposite represents the "• Persecution of the Jesuits by the Japanese." These pictures are carefully guarded and shown with much pride by the brethren of Santo Domingo. About two hundred and fifty years ago, Japan was almost concerted to Christianit\' hv the Jesuits. The Dutch were jealous, and intrigued with the Japanese gov- ernment, persuading it that the Christians designed its overthrow. The Japanese became alarmed, and waged a relentless war ot extermination against the Jesuits and nati\e Christians. Thousands who would not renounce their religion were thiown o\ er the causeway of Papin- berg, and drowned in the sea. Cigar manufacture is a monopoly of the government, and the manufactory co\'ers several acres ot ground. It is a \erv interesting place to \'isit ; tweh'e thousand women and girls are at work, some handsome, some plain, some neat, and others untidy ; but all chatter gayly, and many a hearty Spanish laugh rings out while their little heaps of tobacco are manipulated. Here one sees all the pro- cesses of stripping, assorting, filling, rolling, pasting, count- ing, and packing in boxes the rolls ot tragrant weed. At the noon-hour and in the evening, when the women lea\'e the premises, they are all searched, to make sure that no scraps of tobacco are taken awa\'. The\ are even required to take down their hair. The examinations are made under the superintendence of a Spanish beauty. The cemetery, like those at New Orleans, is surrounded by an outer and an inner wall, with level compartments between them, shch'ed in rous one abo\'e another. On the arrival of a bod\', it is taken from its casket and placed Open Air Theatre, JIanila. Manila, Philippine Islands 427 in one ot these compartments. Ouicklime is placed around It to hasten the process ot decomposition ; the openin^^ is then sealed with a memorial stone, and the casket is taken back to the undertaker's shop to await the next body that will fit into it. A Xati\"i: .Manil\, Philippine Islands. The old church near the cathedral contains some art treasures worth seeing. The painting representing the " Baptism of the Sa\iour by Saint John " is a fine composi- tion, rich in colorinc/. The stained glass window behind the altar has " anirels ho\'erini^ about in the heavens." The 428 An American Cruiser in the East altar-piece is a marble statue of the Virgin ; and when the sun shines through the window, the effect is of "angels hovering about the Virgin." A heavy white veil hangs before the altar and heightens the effect of the picture, so that it appears like a beautiful dream. Every afternoon San Miguel, the fashionable drive, is gay with hundreds of Spanish dowagers, black-eyed senoritas, and interesting children, who recline in elegant carriages, which are drawn by handsome ponies. The ladies are gowned in black or pink or yellow silks, with black man- tillas arranged in the hair and falling gracefully about the shoulders, as they drive back and forth over the length of the noble street. As night approaches, the street is Hlled with people, the sidewalks are crowded, and all Manila seems to be out on parade. Driving through a beautiful suburb that is lined with handsome villas and well-kept grounds of luxuriant green, we keep on with the throng, and reach " La Luna," an oblong plot of ground near the bay shore. La Luna, " the night," is about a quarter ot a mile long, several hundred yards wide, and is illuminated by reddish-black flames from hundreds of kerosene lamps. A band from one of the regiments discourses music from dark until ten o'clock, while hundreds of carriages containing fair women and brave men drive slowly round and round. Their occupants enjoy the cool breezes from the wide bay, the beautiful, moving panorama, and the sweet music, or perhaps alight to promenade upon the greensward, and to exchange greet- ings with friends. The men, in white linen clothes, with black derby hats, lounge about with their cigars, or drop into the little wine-shops at the turn of the promenade to discuss the news over a glass of claret. Wherever one goes in the evening, whether to church, theatre, on the streets, the beautiful promenade, or to call upon friends, he is always met by the sickly, reddish-black, < Manila, Philippine Islands 4-9 smokv Hamc of kcrostiic. The dread of eaith(|uakes and hies should teach these people to thr(.)W the treaeherous oil away, and to adopt gas or eleetrieity. A Xati\e of Manila, ri-nii ipim; IslaM'S. The Spaniards li\'e in fine stone houses, whieh have an air ot wealth and elegance ; while the natives li\ e in huts ot straw or in poorly huilt houses ot wood, often situated on low ground, where the\' are huilt on pHes of wood, and can only be reached by rude ladders from the outside. The iu'ing part of all houses is on the upper floors, the lower 4^o All AnicTicaii Cruiser in tlie Ivast Hoors bciiiii; usctl as sliii|)s aiul stoiT- iddiiis. iMan\ of l lie citizens arc \ci\ rich, aiul wc iliil not sec e\ iiliiu'cs of tlic extreme po\ert\' that is met with m other plact'S. I'hc nati\e wonieii th'css in skills ot ted or pink and white material, — usiialU' lat^c plaitis, a loosel\ htliiiL!; boiliec of "penia cloth," with rtowiiiii; slec\(S ot \\h\ic lace. Tlicir haic feet aic encased in Mue, led, oi giten plush slippers that ha\ e no backs, and their liaii is al\\a\s neatl) dressed, as the\ ne\ et wear bonnets or hats. 'I'he natn e men wear while trousers and shins (the lader alwa\ s worn outside ot the troustas), and slippers like those of the women. It it can be atlordeil, a black tleib\ hat completes the male costimie. I'he street cars are dirt\, .nul the scr\ic(.' is indiHcuait. The cars are onl\ used b\ the |)oorer natn'cs, — e\(.'n the Chini^c coolies retiise to patroni/.e them. I he c\ly had no adi'opic of Cancer and the Equator. For administrative purposes thev are divided into twenty-seven provinces, and contain about eight millions ot people. In the early days of the Spanish settlement, Jesuit missionaries came to the islands in great numbers, and met with success in the conversion ot the natives. There are now about two thousand priests on the islands, who exercise almost un- limited authority o\ er the nati\'es. There are about six millions of natives who acknowledge the Spanish authority, and pay taxes in some form ; but there are more than a million, in the inaccessible mountains, who live a guerilla lite, and resist all efforts to bring them under subjection. E\'er since the Spaniards planted their standard upon the soil, in 1565, there have been strife, rebellions, and wars in the islands. In earlv da\'S, the Portuguese and the Dutch were jealous ot these rich possessions, and annoyed the Spaniards at every opportunity. Bold pirates sailed out from Chinese ports and raided the islands, and differences between the ci\'il and ecclesiastical authorities have fre- quentlv led to internal dissensions and conflicts. In 1762 the British captured Manila, but restored it to Spain after two years' occupation. There are about twelve thousand troops on the islands, of whom one half are natives with Spanish ofBcers, and The Untamed Indians of the Philippine Islands. The Philippines 435 there is always a fleet nt small Spanish war-'/essels cruising about the islands to maintain order. There are a laree o number of '•'■mestizos," or halt-breeds, children of nati\ e mothers and foreign fathers. In the wet season, from March to juU', the ri\-ers become swollen and flooded, and tra\ el is difficult and dangerous. In the dry season, droughts often occur, when the ground is parched and \'egetati()n burned by the sun. Locusts sometimes de\our the crops, and terrihc storms are frequent at the t\'phoon season. The Philippines are a centre of v'olcanic action, and destructi\e earthquakes are of frequent occurrence. They ha\'e shaken down massi\e houses, desolated extensi\-e tracts of land, filled up \'alle\'S, and opened passages from the sea into the interior. The history of the islands is full of accounts of these destructi\'c visitations. The Jesuits ha\'e an excellent observatory in Manila, for study of the weather, stoims, and earthquakes. Instru- ments for determining the direction, force, and duration of earthquakes are fixed on a floor which is suspended from masonry. The whole arrangement is automatic and self- registering, so that if an earth(]uake should occur during the absence of the obser\'er, it is supposed to record itself. How this arranijement will work in actual practice, under the given conditions, time on]\- can determine. The earthquake of 1796 was a calainit\-. In 1824, many churches, the principal bridge, the barracks, and a great number of pri\ate liouses were dcstro\"eJ in Manila. A chasm nearly four miles in length was opened, and six vessels were wrecked in the narrow ri\er. The people all fled from the cit\", and a large number perished. During the earthquake of 1828, the great stones of the gates in the city walls were mo\'ed (JUt of their places, and the bells in the church towers were set ringing. I'he walls of churches and other buildings were rent, and hanging lamps swung 4^6 An American Cruiser in tlie East throut^h ail arc of abmit five degrees. The phenomena lasted for about three minutes, but there were no rumbhng noises. A destructi\e earthquake oecuncd in 1H56, and a terrible one made the year ]88o memorable in the history uM'iNE Islands. ot Manila, v\dien a great portion dT the eitv was wrecked. 1 he people li\e in constant dread of these terrible \isitations, and all possible precautions are taken for pi'otection. The houses are located, planned, and built with reference to safety under such conditions. They arc large and imposiiig, but have no architectural pretensions. Cav-Sabo River, Cavite. The Philippines 437 The cit\', with the suburbs, contains a population ot three hundred thousand five hundred. The people are good-natured and orderly. They have great respect tor authorit\', and \er\- iew crunes are com- mitted. The police force is strictl)' military, and its mem- bers are nati\es. The lottery and sex-eral other forms of gambling flourish, and large revenues are derned from them. Race meetina;s are held e\er\' spring, when nati\ e and Chinese ponies are run. These entertainments are \cry popular, and attract large numbers of people from the islands and the Chinese coast. The climate of these islands is healthy but hot. The maximum range of the thermometer is 103° f'ah., but a sea breeze usually sets in about h\e in the e\ening, and lowers the temperature. 1 he greatest annual rainfall recorded is 114 inches, and the least is 84 inches. There are 323 Europeans and Americans, 4,506 Span- iards, 16,520 Chinese, 47,662 Chinese mestizos (half- breeds), 4,963 Spanish mestizos, and 200,966 pure nati\es in Manila. The population seems to be di\'ided into the clergy, the officials, the halt-breeds, and nati\'e Indians. The business hours are from fi\ e to nine in the morning and from fi\e to midnight. T he middle ot the da\' is de\'oted to quiet lounging and sleep. There are four dail\- newspapers published in Manila, " El Diario de Manila," " La Oceania Espanola," and " La Voz de Espana" in the morning, and "El Comercio " in the eyening. Manila Bay is about one hundred and thirty miles in circumference and almost circular in shape. Its great size and the absence of shelter make it an unsafe anchorage for vessels during the t\phoon season. The anchorage is about three miles from the landing, but small vessels go up the riyer and make fast to walls. Since 1880, a tax of 438 An American Cruiser in the East two per cent has been laid on all imports, and one per cent on all exports, the income thus obtained to be used in building a breakwater within which vessels can lie in safety at all seasons of the year. Hurricanes, earthquakes, and fearful thunder-storms are frequent in the rainy season. The Spanish na\al station at Ca\'ite, opposite the mouth of the Pasig, has a small patent slip and shops for the repair of vessels. Blli. Sled, Manila, PmLirpiNi. Islamis. The public revenue amounts to about fifteen millions of dollars each \ ear. The principal exports are two hundred thousand tons of sugar, seven hundred thousand bales of hemp, and h\ e thousand tons of cuffee. The United States and Great Britain are the chief markets, and one hundred million cigars go to China and the p:ast Indies annually. The bav is full of harmless little water-snakes. Some- times sharks make excursions up the bay, but they are not believed to be harmless. Beet and other meats are poor, but the vegetables and The Philippines 41;9 fruits, which are in trreat \ 3riet\', are excellent and abundant. Manila hemp is a product of the leaf-stalks of Ali/sa textihs, indigenous to these islands, which the nati\cs call *■' abaca." It is one of the most \ aluable products, and requires the least care and attention ot them all. A false stem, or cluster ot enclosing leat-stalks, grows up troni its rhizome to a height ot about twent\- teet, then spreads mto unbroken lea\ es similar to those of the banana. It is rudeU' culti\"ated tor its fibre. When about three years old it blooms, and this is the most ta\ orable time tor gath- ering the fibre. The stock is then cut, and the enclosmij; stalks are torn into narrow strips and cleaned while fresh. The cleaning is done bv drawing the strips between a sharp knite-edijed instrument and a block ot hard wood, and repeating the operation until the soft cellular matter which surrounds the fibre is remo\"ed, when the fibre is hung in the open air to dr\-. Two natnes will cut stocks and separate about twent\-fi\e pounds of fibre per da\-. The fibre from the outer la\er ot lea\"es is tough, tiillv de\ eloped, and stroncr, while the product ot the inner lea\'es is increas- insjlv thin, fine, and weak. The fine fibre is used b\" the nati\"es, without spinning or twisting; (the ends of the single fibres being knotted together), and from it a beautiful, fine, thin, ti-an^lucent, and comparati\'elv strong te.xture known as " jusi-cloth " is made, which is used for articles of dress and ornament. Native Whman (m~ Manila, I'll Il-i I'KI N h L^LA^I^s. 440 An American Cruiser in the East Having nearly completed our three years' tour of duty, we left Yokohama on August 15, and after buffeting the storms, calms, and fogs of the broad Pacific for about thirt\-eight days, we sighted the highlands of California on a beautiful morning, and entered the Golden Gate. We gathered on the poop-deck and sang " Home Again " and " Praise God," while every fellow of us was filled with the sentiments of the hymns, for even the brown hills on each side of us were home ; and it we could have done so, I have no doubt that some would ha\-e been quite willing to hug the old hair seals on ClifT Rock because they were Americans. Soon we dropped our anchors off the Custom House wharf, and later proceeded to the Navy Yard, where the flag was hauled down just three years after it had been raised. APPENDIX Appendix I THE JAPAN— CHINA WAR EVER since the settlement of foreigners in Korea, there have been periodical outbreaks of more or less violence against the new-comers, — the Japanese. These outbreaks ha\e been instigated bv secret societies, known as " Tan Haks," or anti-foreigners, whose hatred was hereditar\', and whose jealousy was excited and in- tensified by the beautiful civilization ot the Japanese, and by the evidences ot progress and advancement among the new settlers. A Japanese would be found murdered in one part of the kingdom, a serious outbreak would occur in another part, the authorities would be resisted somewhere else, and law- abiding people lived in a state of alarm and unrest. After the snows had disappeared, the ice had melted, and the roads became passable in 1894, a rebellion broke out in Korea, and soon became so formidable that the government forces were unable to suppress it. Korea called on China for assistance, and China, as by treaty bound, notified Japan that she would send a force to sup- press the outbreak. On June 7, Japan gave China notice that she would also send a force to protect her own sub- jects resident in the troubled districts. On June 9, the town of Asan, about forty miles south of Seoul, was the scene of great excitement caused bv the landing of about two thousand Chinese troops ; at about the same time 444 ^^^ Amci'icnn (Viiiscr in tlu- Iv.ist till' j^ipancsc l.iinliil li\i' liuiulnil mm Ikhii iIhii llcci .it C'lK'imilpd, aiul piisluil (luni (in li> llic i'.i|iil;il. 'I'llf l.ipancsc j;ii\ I'liinicnl .ippicnal cj llic l',I'IVII\' <'I till' siliialiiin, ami li\ llic ciul ol llu- nimilli liail alidiil li\r thousaiul nun IM .1|H lu C '111 11.1. 'I'lu- " KownIiiiii' " w.is iiiiw iliMcdil 111 liilluw llir " N.IIIIW.I," ImiI llu- ( 'lllllcsc iiIIk l.ll. oil liii.llil wulllil llnl |)i'l Mill lie I I'll]' lis ll oIIk CIS III iilir\ I lir iii ilii . ,\ llri s('\ ri .il 1 rin'lll inns .mil nun i i iiii |il i.ilii r Willi llir uiilrl, llir " N.i niw.l " ilisrh.il [Mil .1 liii|irilii .11 llir " k 1 1\\ sli 1 1 1|' ' .mil npcniil liii' ii|>i>n liri, Miikini' lii'i m .limiil .1 li.ill liniil, .illii wlin ll llic " N.iniw.i " sir.iini ll .iliuiil llir » i ci k.ij'r, .mil s.niil Millie 111 llic |)iii|)lc. llic " I SI ^ ucii " lin.ill\ clmlcij llic "■ ^ iislmiii," \\ lien llic l.illci \ isscl ilio|i|icil In i .im Inn, .mil in llic e.iil\ .illciniiiiii llic " ,\ k ilsnsliini.i " icliiiiicil Willi llic " Is. Ill kl.llll' " .IS licl |)ri/e. I lie lle\l niiiinill!' I lie llllle llecl sle.imeil suiilli, .mil, l.illin;> in Willi llii " ^ .lc y.llll.l," I I .lllslcl Icil lllcll |llls support lln- l.iiiiliii^ o\ tlirii ainius, ami tlu' wiuk \\ .IS ailmii.ihU iloiic. I'lu' llcrl's basr ot uprrations was in tlu- iU'ij;lil>oi IiihhI ot tlu- kokiiii Islands, aiul its i;iiaiil \ I'ssi'ls w t'u- Lrpt luuriiiiL; alioiit tlu' Ciiilt ot Puhili, watchiiii^ l'mL:_-\ anij_ liiKt aiul the ShaiitiiiiL^ I'romoiitorv, wliilr (lu- littli ili\ isioii ot tlu- lapaiusc aiiu\ aiul war malciial ot all kiiuls wfU' lapklK piislu'il into Korea under this pioteition. rile Chinese fleet leniaineil in theCiiill ot I'lehili, appai- cntK iiulitleii'iit to the movements ot the [apanese, aiul C^hinese \ issels aeeom|iaine(l then tianspoits (lom Port Arthur to the ^ alu without mteiteienet- tiom the Japanese. ('>n /Vumist 10, a l.ip.mese fleet ol tweKe \ c-ssi'ls .iiul some toipeilo ho, its t'\eh.in;;eil shots with the forts at \\'ei-l l.n-\\\-i, hut, fiiuliiiLi 110 l.ii|:;e Chinese \essels 111 har- bor, the\ lelui neil to kiue.i. Ilie C'hniese were in eonsuh-rahle loiee at l'iii|_^-v .1111;, sotiu' h.niiiL!, heeii sent from j'.iku, ,nul i^ieat luinihers ha\ iiiLi; eiosseJ o\ la lioiii ^ I .ineliin i.i. The |.ip.inese pre- p.iieil to ilislo(li;e them, .iiiil on August 1 c; thin ni.ini InuK' left Seoul .iiul took up the ni.iieh tor 1'iiil;-\ .nu^, while a column of mf.nitiA ,iiul .irtillei\ left (.ien-s.in, the m.irehes heiiuj, so ilireeteil tli.it .1 |iiiietioii was siiecesstulK ertecled 1h'Ioi\' I'liie -\ .iiil:, w.is ri'.ieheil. (^11 August .11, the first ieser\i.'s of tlu- fifth Ji\i-.ioii iiiuler Ciener.il Xoil/u .iirneJ .It C'hemulpo, 111 tr.nispoits, .iiul on the .'^h the\ ni.ule a loieeil m.iieli to l'm^-\.lll^, wlieie the\- .issistetl in the .iss.iiilt .iiul capture. In .Auj^ust, .1 Imili.uIc ot ci^ht thoiis.iiul men ot the t hii J Ji\ isioii l.iiuleil .it Cien-s.in, when (.\ilonel S.ito m.iicheJ .icross the mount. mis to Piii^-vmul;, with fn e thoiis.uul men. Cn September iv^, thnt\-fi\e tr.iiis|iorts .iirneJ on the west CO. 1st ot Kore.i, when si\ w.ir \ I'ssels .issistcil them in l.iiulinLl the secoiul briL',.ule of the third Jnision i .ibout ten thous.iiul mcn\ the pontoon biulL^es for crossing the 452 An American Cruiser in the East Yalu River, a large number of coolies, and \'ast quantities of stores and provisions ; while the main body of the fleet remained outside on the lookout. Ping-yang, naturally a strong position, had been greatly strengthened by the Chinese, who had about fifteen thou- sand men for its defence. The Japanese attacking forces amounted to about seventeen thousand. On September 15, the Japanese assaulted the outer works, advancing in three columns, the fighting lasting until night. The Chinese retreated towards the Yalu under cover of the darkness. The next morning, the Japanese took possession of the works and the city, and sent a force in pursuit of the fleeing Chinese ; but they were badly demoralized, and made no further stand on Korean soil. The Japanese moved up to the Yalu River, where they halted to await reinforcements. Their forces now in Korea consisted of the third and fifth divisions, with strong garrisons at Ping-yang, Seoul, Fu-san, and Gen-san. The Japanese fleet arrived at Ping-yang Inlet on the morning of September 15, when the Admiral sent four men-of-war and some torpedo boats up the river to assist the army in its operations against the Chinese. The re- mainder of the fleet was formed into two squadrons, and steamed up the coast, leaving the inlet the next morning. The first squadron, under command of Admiral Ito, was made up of the " Matsushima," " Chiyoda," " Itsuku- shirna," " Hochidate," " Hivei," " Fuso," and the " Akagi." The second squadron, under command of Rear-Admiral Tsuboi, was composed of the " Yoshino," the " Taka- chiho," the " Akitsushima," the " Naniwa," and the armed steamer " Sakyo." The Chinese squadron cruised about Taku, Port Arthur, Wei-Hai-Wei, and the Gulf of Pichili, until the evening of September 14, when it headed for Talienwan Bay, where it was joined by the smaller vessels, and some Appendix 453 torpedo boats. The entire squadron, under the command of Admiral Ting, and con\'ovint^ h\e transports, with about n\'e thousand troops and stores, sailed for the Yalu Ri\ er, where it arrived on the i6th and landed the troops and stores under the guns of the " Ping; Yuen," " Kuajicr Ping," and the torpedo boats, the "Fing Yuen," the "Chen Yuen," the "Lai Yuen," the "King Yuen," the "Chi "^'uen," the " Ching Yuen," the " Chih Yuen," the " Chao Yuen," the " Yung Wei," the " Kuang Kia," and four small gunboats guarding the approaches. On the morning of the 17th, smoke was reported, where- upon Admiral Ting got his fleet underway, and formed his line of battle, — the two battleships being in the centre, the smaller \essels on the flanks, and the gun and torpedo boats under co\ er of the fleet. The Chinese steamed slowh- up to meet the approaching Japanese squadrons, which were advancinji in colimin. The first squadron. Admiral Ito, was in the lead, and headed tor the centre of the Chinese column, then slowly changed its course and passed its right wnig. When the advance vessels of the Japanese squadron had approached to within about six thousand yards, the Chinese \'essels opened fire upon them. The Japanese continued to ad\ancc upon their enemy's right flank, and when within about thiee thousand yards opened a deadly fire. After passing the flank, the " Ping Yueji," the " Kuang Pmg," and the torpedo boats were attacked, but they a\oided the assault. The squadron now hastened to the support of the " Hiyei " and the " Akagi." The Chinese vessels kept their hows toward their enemy, and slowly swung to starboard, as the Japanese vessels approached their riffht flank. The "Fuso" steamed close in front of o the Chinese line, and the " Hiyei," having lost her positicjn in line, was compelled to cross tlic Chinese line, between the " Chen Yuen " and the " King Yuen," and in so doing 4^4 -"^'^ American Cruiser in the East was so badlv damaged as to compel her commander to seet protection under co\er of the vessels which had turned the Chinese flank, and were now in the rear of that Reet. The "Akagi," not being able to keep up with the first squadron, was exposed to the assault ot all the \essel5 ot the Chinese left wine. She was closelv pressed br the " Lai Yuen," which \-essel was set on hre, when the " Aka2:i " was enabled to withdraw. The second squadron was called to the assistance ot the " Akagi," and hercelv assaulted the front oi the Chinese line, while the hrst squadron was attacking it in the rear. The combined attack was maintained with ereat \'i2;or, the Japanese \'e55els slowlv withdrawins to long range, where thev re-tormed their columns. ^ Earh" in the action, the Chmese fleet was thrown into disorder, and was not able to re-form. The " Chao "^ uen " and the " "^ uen ^Vei," disabled and on nre, headed for Talu Tao-, where the '' ^ ung ^^ ei " sank soon after reach- ing shoal water, when her crew were taken oft bv one of the torpedo boats. The "Chao ^ung" and the "' Kua:v; Kia " were cut ott from the fleet bv the Japanese hrst squadron, and started to run from the battle. In the panic, the " Chao "\ ung '' was rammed b\" the " Chi "\ uen," and sank in deep water, and the '' Chi '\ uen '' soon sank as a result ot her iniuries. All the other \'essels were more or less damaged, and were dropping awav from the " Chung ^ uen " and the '' Ting "^ uen," which braxelv kept up the hght. The Japanese slowlv drew their \essels out of range, but were followed up bv the Chinese battleships, when the battle was soon renewed. The Japanese second squadron was sent after the retreating Chinese ^'essels, and sank the " King Yuen," while the nrst squadron of li\-e vessels circled round and round the two Chinese battleships at long range. The " Matsushima " was seriouslv injured; Appendix 455 and had a large number of her people killed by being striick by a twelve-inch shell from the ^ Tini; Ytien." At half-past five in the afternoon, after a hot engage- ment of se\ en hours and a half, the [apanese vessels steamed out ot range, and closed the action. The remainuig Chinese vessels steamed to Port Arthur, where they were repaired. The " Kuang Kia "' being lost in the vicinit\' of Talienwan Ba\ , Admiral Ito transferred his flag to the " Hoehidate," and tlurini; the night the fleet stood out to sea, returniiiL!; in the mornuig, when the " Alatsu- shima," tiie *■' Hi\ei," and the "• Akagi," being badiv in- jured, were sent to [apan tor repairs. The rest ot the fleet returned to Ping-\-ang Inlet on the 19th, where all the other vessels were repaired. As soon as the \ essels were readv for service, they were sent to cruise in the Gulf of Pichili, taking in Port Arthur and Shantung. 'rhirt\-se\en transports, containing eighteen thotisand men of the first di\'ision, arri\etl in Ping-\ ang Inlet from Heisoshima, on October 11. The\- were con\'o\ ed trom here b\' the [apanese fleet and sixteen torpedo boats to Kwayeus, about eighty miles northeast of Port Arthur, where they landed on the 24th. The entire di\ ision was landed without opposition by the 29th, and the troops ot the tweltth brigade of the sixth di\ ision, about nine thousand men, which had been encamped at Chemulpo, were brought over and landed by No\'ember 4. These mo\ements were guarded by the vessels of the fleet, which were kept cruisnig in the vicinit\'. The Japanese mo\'ed on to the town ot Pitsewo, and occupied it. The ad\'ance guard was then pushed on to Kinchau, which was defended by fifteen thousand Chinese troops. After an artiUerv duel of se\-eral hours' duration and an assault, Kinchau was capttired on the 6th, the Chinese fleeino- in the direction of Talienwan and Port Arthur. On November 6, the Japanese fleet, in company with 456 An American Cruiser in the East some tenders, sailed to the entrance of Talienwan Bay, leaving the \ essels of tlieir third squadron and a tew others to protect the enemy's base. The tenders searched for mines, while the war xessels steamed back and forth across the entrance to the ba\ to draw upon themselves the fire of the forts. On the morning of the 7th, three of the vessels entered Talienwan Bay, and two entered Iveu Bav, where they found that the forts had been abandoned by the Chinese, and were occupied by their own troops. The mines were soon rcmoyed, and Talienwan Ba\' was made the base ot operations tor the Japanese torces. The vessels of the Chinese squadron that had been in- jured at the battle at Ping-yang Inlet were now repaired and ready for serx'ice ; and ha\ing rccci\ed their stores at Taku, they sailed for Wei-Hai-Wei on the 12th. The Japanese Admiral Ito, with the first, second, and third squadrons, and six torpedo boats, steamed about the en- trance to Wei-Hai-Wei on the i6th and 17th, in the hope of drawing the Chinese vessels out. On the 1 8th, he returned to Talienwan Bay, leaving the second squadron to watch the Chinese fleet. On the same day, the " Chen Yuen " struck upon a rock oft Hwang Island, at the en- trance of Wei-Hai-Wei Bay, and received serious injuries. On the 13th the twelfth brigade reached Kinchau, and on the 17th the march was taken up for Port Arthur. The works at Pt)rt Arthur were very strong on the sea side, and on the land side were formed of redoubts of stone and earth, which commanded the hills for about three miles from the arsenal. These were connected by a wall that was of some value as a means of defence, and mounted guns of various calibres, from Krupps down to machine guns and Catlings. Ten of these works were located on the left hand and two on the right hand of the main road, and lines of rifle-pits covered their rear from the top Appendix 41^7 of a steep ridge, being garrisoned bv about thirteen thousand troops, while the Japanese force was twenty thousand, of whom about fifteen thousand were m the action. On the 18th, when about eight miles from Port Arthur, the Japanese ad\ ance was met bv a large body of Chinese, «'ho wounded a number of the Japanese, and dro\e them back to their main body. The Japanese steadily advanced in three columns, ha\ my; fittv field and mountain and twent\"-tour sietje o;uns. On the 20th, the Chinese made a sortie in tcjrce m two columns, threatening the Japanese right. A single shell put one c(jlumn t(j flight, and the other was di'uen back after some little fighting. A Chinese force of about one thousand ad\'anced to meet the Japanese right column, and was soon repulsed. The Japanese com- mander of the rio;ht column then paid his respects to the forts on the west of the main road, which he soon captured. The centre and left then pushed forward under cover of the artillery fire, and captured the works in front of them, meeting with little resistance. The Chinese fled in the direction of Port Arthur, leaving guns, stores, and ammuni- tion in good condition. The\' were pursued, the rifle-pits on the ridge were soon captured, and at two in the after- noon the Japanese troops occupied the camp. Several of the forts on the sea side were captured on the same dav, and the remaining works were found abandoned on the 2 2d. The Chinese garrison was badly demoralized, and no attempts ha\ e been made to destrov an\' of the works, as forts and na\'y-vards were found to be in good condition. On the 2 1 St of November, the Japanese fleet, except the third squadron, which was on guard at Talienwan, steamed about the entrance to Port Arthur, some of the vessels of the fourth squadron exchanging shots with the forts. Late in the dav, two torpedo boats came out of the harbor, when some of the Japanese torpedo boats destroyed them 45 8 An American Cruiser in the East under the guns of the western forts. The fleet remained off the harbor all night, and on the next day found their army in possession of the place. The entrance was soon cleared of mines and torpedoes, when Port Arthur became the base ot Japanese operations. The In\asion of Manchuria While the Japanese were awaiting reinforcements on the left bank of the Yalu River, the Chinese had selected a naturally strong position on the right bank, and erected earthworks. On October 24, the Japanese began the passage of the Yalu in columns. One column forded the river about twentv-fi\e miles above its mouth, while the main body crossed on a pontoon bridge near the city of Wiju. On the next day, the Japanese charged the Chinese and defeated them, part fleeing towards Kiuliencheng, and the others towards Antong. The Japanese followed the Chinese and captured Kiuliencheng on the next day with- out opposition. The Chinese forces in these encounters amounted to about twentv-five thousand. The Chinese retreated in the direction of Fenhugangen, on the main road to Monkden, and through Antong on the road to Takushan, about thirty miles west of the entrance to the Yalu Ki\'er. They were hotly pursued in both directions, and were so badly demoralized that they aban- doned fieldpieces, small arms, and great quantities of stores and ammunition. General Tatsumi entered Fenghuanchung at the head of his brigade on the 3rst, and found the Chinese fleeing in two directions, some on the road to Monkden, while others went in the direction of Haichang. General Oseka pursued the enemy to Siyuen, when they fell back to Semencheng, v/hich is situated on the Siyuen and Inku cross-roads. The third division, under General Katsura, attacked the Appendix 459 Chinese near Sumuchang, and t!io\'cthcm towards Haichang, which was captured and occupied b\ the Japanese on the 13th. Here thev intrenched themselves and rested. About the same time, General Tatsumi, with the fifth division, was doing some hard work in forced marches, fighting his way towards Liaoyang, where the Chinese offered consider- able resistance, and made numerous attempts to cut oft their communications. The Japanese ad\'ance met a force Implkial Chimse TrO"P^. which checked them at Matien Pass, on the Monkden road, but they made no effort to capture the pass, and General Ito harassed them by making se\eral attempts, all of which were unsuccessful, to cut oft^ the Japanese com- munications with the Yalu River. The Japanese fijund the Chinese in considerable numbers a few miles west of Haichang, and onl\- succeeded in driv- ing them ofl^ after several hours of hard fighting, during which the loss on both sides was very heavy. The Chinese retreated towards Nieuchwant^. 460 An American Cruiser in the East About the end of December, General Nogi left Kinchau for Kaiping with a brigade of the first division of the second army, which had been engaged at Port Arthur. He reached Kaiping on January 10, and dro\e the Chinese out with great loss, and as he was now within supporting dis- tance of the third di\ ision at Haichang, he opened commu- nication with it. The first division soon came up, under the command of Lieutenant-General Yamigi, when their forces were united. The Japanese now held Kaiping, Haichang, and Feng- huanchung, and kept their communications open with Takushan, Kiuliencheng, and Antong, which position remained practically unchanged until the end of February. The Chinese confronted them in superior numbers, there being a corps at Liaoyang, another at Nieuchwang, and one at Tienchwangtai, which also held the Inku. In January and February they made se\eral attempts to recapture Haichang, but they were dri\'en ofi^ with small loss to the Japanese. After the capture of Port Arthur, the Japanese fleet , steamed about the Gult oi Pichili, and the entrance to Wei-Hai-Wei, using coal that had been captured at Port Arthur. On Januar\- 18, the " Yoshino," the " Akitsu- shima," and the " Takachiho " made a demonstration before Tenchan, about sevent\- miles west of Wei-Hai-Wei, which was repeated on the next dav. These vessels then rejoined the fleet in Talienwan Ba\-, where the\ found the whole of the second division, and the eleventh brigade of the sixth di\'ision, — about twentv thousand men in all, — assembled on fiftv transports which had arri\ed from Uiiina. In the evening, the fleet convoyed twenty of the trans- ports, with troops, to Yungching Bav, on the Shantung Promontory, after which thev took a threatening position at the entrance to Wei-Hai-Wei. By the 23d, all the transports had arrived and landed their troops, not, however. Appendix 461 until one ot the \essels had opened fire and dispeised the Chinese who opposed the landing. , Wei-Hai-Wei was defended against attack from the sea by strong earthworks on both the mainland and the islands, and heav\ guns commanded both entrances. The land side was protected bv earthworks that were mounted with field-guns, and the eastern islands had a clav wall about fi\ e teet thick. On the western side, a parapet of sand- bags had been built, and mounted with a number of 10.5 centimetres, and a machine gun. The approaches were all mined. The island ot Lin<;kinij; had in barbette a number ot guns, ranging from field-guns up t(j 9.4 inches calibre, and there was a well-budt tort on Channel Island which mounted two 8-inch and a number of smaller guns. The Japanese ad\ance guard occupied Yungching on the 20th, and on the 25th the Japanese moved forward in two columns. The ele\'enth brigade moved along the northern r(jad, while the second division took the southern road, ha\ ing dail\ encounters with a lartre bodv ot Chinese who were retreating before it. These roads were \ ery difficult, — mei'e bridle-paths, and almost impassable. Notwithstanding the fieldpieces had not come up, the eastern works were assaulted at about nine o'clock on the mornintr of the 30th, and by a quarter of one o'clock were in the possession of the Japanese. The larger \ essels remained in position to assist in the attack it necessar\ , but the acti\e work was done by the smaller ones. A party of officers and men from the fleet manned one ot the captured forts at the eastern entrance, and opened a hot fire on the Channel Island fort. The fort on Channel Island, the eastern forts, and the imprisoned Chinese fleet replied with spirit. A battalion of Japanese troops was deployed across the beach to intercept the Chinese, who were fleeing from the eastern forts. While engaged with the Chinese, their line was enfiladed by the fire from several 462 An American Cruiser in the East of their own vessels, and the battalion was nearly annihi- lated. On the next day, the Japanese southern column took position across the western promontory. The left of this line encountered the frenzied Chinese, who were fleeing from the western forts, and sustained great loss. After receiving reinforcements, they drove the Chinese off in the direction of Chefoo. The western forts were abandoned, and Wei-Hai-Wei was occupied without further resistance. The smaller vessels of the Japanese fleet were compelled to leave their station at the entrance to the harbor, and find shelter from a severe gale and snowstorm which raged for three da\s. On the 3d, the xessels returned and exchanged shots with the forts to divert attention from the parties vvho were examining the entrances to the harbor. A channel was found on the east side, and at two o'clock on the morning of the 5th, ten torpedo boats left the lee of Three-Peaked Point, and raced for the entrance. Eight of them succeeded in entering the harbor, and immediately attacked the Chinese fleet, firing eleven torpedoes. One torpedo from boat No. g struck the " Ting Yuen," when she was run into shoal water and sank ; later the Chinese blew her up. No. 9 received a shot in her boiler, and, being helpless, was abandoned. No. 22 grounded in trying to leave the harbor, and was lost. On the morning of the 6th, under cover of the darkness, five torpedo boats started for the harbor. Four succeeded in entering, and discharged several torpedoes, sinking the " Lai Yuen," the " Wei Yuen," and the tender " Panfah." After the exploit, all the torpedo boats returned safely, when some of the Japanese vessels and the eastern torts manned by Japanese opened fire on the Chinese fleet and island forts. On the "th, the maga- zine on Channel Island exploded, and the fort was soon abandoned. The Chinese torpedo fleet tried to escape by the western entrance, but they were chased, and were all Appendix 463 captured or destroyed by the first squadron. On the 9th, the Japanese placed mortar batteries in position near the western torts, and opened fire on the Lintrjcing; batteries at the same time the eastern forts opened on the island and the Chinese fleets. The firing lasted all da\-, and the " Ching Yuen" was sunk. On the iith, the Japanese fleet opened fire on the island forts, but a strong wind and heayv sea compelled the ships to stop firing, and draw out of range. During the winter months, the operations of the Japanese fleet were frequently interrupted by foul weather. On the 1 2th, Admiral Ting proposed to capitulate to Admiral Ito, and on the 17th the Japanese fleet steamea into the harbor, and took possession of the remaining ves- sels of the Chinese fleet, and of the forts. Admiral Ting committed suicide. The officers who had been captured were sent, with the dead Admiral, to Chetoo in the prize vessel " Kang Chi," which the Japanese furnished tor the purpose. The "Chen Yuen," the " Tci Yuen," the " Ping Yuen," the "■ Kuang Fing," and six ot the small gunboats were among the pri/.es, all of which were sent to Japan, except the " Chen Yuen," which was sent to Port Arthur for repairs. The torts and guns on the main- land were destro\-ed, the army was gradualU' withdrawn to Talienwan, and by the end of February there onl\- remained 320 men, and a na\al force to look after Lino;king. The Spring C.yMPAicN in AIanchi'ria The first di\'ision ot the second armv, under command of Lieutenant-General Yamagi, was at Kaiping, and part of the fifth division, under General Nodzu, was at Haichang, when an ad\'ance was ordered. On February 24, troops were sent out from Ivaipina;, and, after some hard fighting, Tapingsham was captured. A few davs later. General Katsuma left Haichang with a force, and pushed the Chinese 464 An American Cruiser in the East back some fifteen miles on the Laivang Road, and then went in the direction of Nieuchwang. At the same time, a part of the fifth di\-ision made a direct attack from Hai- chang, and captured the place on Aiarch 4, after a se\ere fight, which lasted from ten in the morning until eleven at night. The Chinese kept up a street fight, and defended themsehes house by house. Lieutenant-General Yamacji jAPANHsii ARTiLLnrn'. ^^ a Jaivanesf. Artist. pushed on to Inku, which he took possession of on the 7th, the Chijiese fleeing in all directions across the frozen river. On the 9th, the first army, assisted h\ a brigade of the second arm\', mo\'ed on the Chinese at Tienchwangtai, on the west side of the Liao Ri\er, and captured the place after se\ eral hours' fighting. The main body of the Chinese had retreated before the assault began, leaving a small rear- guard to repeat the story of Nieuchwang, a running street fight, and from house to house. Appendix 465 The Pescadores and Formosa The first and second squadrons were refitted in Japan, and made ready tor operations against Formosa. The remain- ing vessels of the fleet continued cruising about the Gulf of Pichili. The seven war vessels under command of Admiral Ito con\'oved fi\e transports, with about three thousand troops and a hatteiT of mountain artiller\', and came to anchor ofl' Pachan Island, Pescadores, on March 20. On the z]d, the troops were landed on Ponghan under co\ cr of the fleet. Three ot the \'essels engaged a fort about four miles to the westward, and a fort nearer Alakimg. After the troops were established on shore, three more \ esscls were sent to assist against the forts, and at about two in the afternoon the Chinese abandoned the louver fort. On the morning of the 24th, the Japanese ad\'anced against Alakung, on the west side ot Ponghan, where the Chinese soon abandoned their works, fleeing to Fisher Island in junks. The Japanese soon found that the Chinese had earned oft the mo\ablc parts ot the guns. As soon as the Japanese flag was raised upon the tort, at halt-past ele\'en in the morning, the Chinese forts opened fire upon it from Fisher Island. Lieutenant Inou\c of the na\ \-, with thirty men, had accompanied the armw He was able to get the disabled guns in working older, and turned their fire upon Fisher Island. Not getting a return fire, he crossed o\er in a sampan at night, and found that the Chinese had abandoned their forts and escaped to the mainland. After searching; tor mines, the fleet entered the harbor on the 26th, but mo\'ed outside again on account of cholera among the troops. By the terms of the armistice, which became effective on March 30, active operations were suspended in the districts of Monkden, Chili, and Shantung. The Japanese were in 466 An American Cruiser in the Ea-t force at Tahen'.van and K:r.char., and additional troop; v.ere being assembied in Japan. The Chinese '.vere in torce at Kuiu, at Monkden, at iharhai'.van, a: TaKu, a: Tientsin, and in sreat numbers in the ■. icinitv of Peking, which city, it was feared, would be next assailed. The Japanese fleet had full control of the seas, and there -.va; no important Chinese force south of the Japanese lines. The Japanese Imperial Guard arri. ed at Kulung, For- mosa, about the end of Mar, as an army oi occupation. The treat'.- of peace was signed by the representa:;-.-es of the two Powers on April i", 1895, and ratincations bv the Emperors of Japan and China v,-ere e.xchanged on Mav 8. The treatv pro", idee for the full and complete surrender of Korea ; the cession b-.- China to Japan of Formosa and the Pescadores ; the pavment of a war in- demnir.- of 2::.:;;.:;: taels; the opening to trace of several Chinese c.ties hitherto clo-ed ; the extension of Japanese steam navigation to se'.'eral ri-.ers in China ; and the securitv of certain right; to Japar,e>e sub-ects in China. Japan agreed to e.acuate Chir.e-e territorv within three months, but to occupv AVei-Hai-^^'ei temporarilv, at the partial expense or China, a^ a guarantee o: the raithful performance of the stipulations o: the treatv ; prisoners of war were to ^e exchanged, ana Chinese subiects who had been com.promnsed in their relations with the Jaoane-e armr." were not to be punished. Japan '.vas a.so to have possession o: the southern oart of the Feng-tien, includini' Port A.~hur, but bv an I.-n- penaj rescript, datea June i;. 1&95. the Japanese Go-ern- ment expressed the intention of lea", in^ this territorv „ncer Chinese -urisdiction. The document read; thu; 1 — - S;;:ce, tbrit, 1 r.t G:ve---ert if idtir Ms-tidt^, ibe E-- tfRu^na an- Gtr: -^-.y -1 ti-tvr Rrr-ii: tr'Fr.r:;, have 1: .r. s re 1 ",~ ~ ^r. Hi" t- :: :i- Giv:---;-: -- - rer-=rt-dv Appendix 467 the grounJ that such permanent pc^^'.es^ion would be detrimental to the lasting peace of" the Orient. "Devoted as \\ e unalterabl\- arc, and ever have been, to the prinuples of peace, we were constrained to take up arms against China tor no other rca,on than 'jur desire to secure tor the (Orient an enduring peace. " Now the triendh' recommendation of the three Po\ver3 was equall)- prompted b\' the same desire. Con-ulting, tliereh»re, the best interests ot peace, and aniinated b\- a desire not to bring upon nur people added hardship, or to impede the progress of national destiny by creating new complications, and therebv mating the situation difficult and retarding the restoration of peace, we do not hesitate to accept such recommendation." Formosa and the Pescadores were fi^mallv transferred from China to japan at KulunL', Formosa, on the 2d da\' of June, b\' the Chinese H iirh Commissioner to .Admiral Kalavama, the Japanese (io\ernor-General. He found that the Chinese officials and troops had been withdrawn, but the aboriirinal nati\es, whose fears and prejudices had been pla\ ed upon, were in a state of rebellion and war. His troops, therefore, had to fight their wa\" and restore order out of the chaos which rci2ncd in thfjse beautiful islands. During the entire war, 623 Japanese were killed in battle; 2,489 died of cholera ; 2,981 died of other diseases ; and of the 3,155 wounded, 172 died of their wounds. It is not known how man\' Chinese were killed and wotmded, as their organization was too imperfect to justif\- c\en an approximate estimate of the numbers. I here were some splendid duels on held and deck, but the discipline, steadiness, and C(|uipment of the Japanese v\'cre too much for the ill-armcd and worsc-disciplmed troops and sailors under the " drac;on flag." Through innumerable hardsliips, in the face of the tvphoons and during the terrible winter of Manchuria, the Japanese sailors and soldiers bore themselves as m.en con- 468 An American Cruiser in the East scious of their strength, and were humane and generous to their vanquished foes. Scanty rations and medicines were shared with enemies. The wounded, the women, and the children were cared tor and succored. Safeguards and pro- tection were thrown about the captured towns and \ illagcs, and justice was shown toward the humblest. Appendix II MORE ABOUT THE PHILIPPINES THE Philippines lie between 5 and 22 degrees of north latitude and 117 and 127 degrees of east longitude, about six hundred and thirtv miles trom the coast ot China, with the China Sea washing their western shores and the Pacific Ocean dashing its spra\' against the green-crowned rocks and upon the beaches of their eastern coasts. A glance at a map of the world will show the distance from San Francisco to Hawaii to be about two thousand miles, from Hawaii to the Caroline Islands about as much more, and from the Carolines to the Philippines it is about the same, making the whole distance trom San Francisco to the Philippines a little more than se\en thousand miles, through summer seas a.id delightful breezes, on almost the identical track that was tra\'ersed hv the old Spanish gal- leons in their journevs between Mexico and the Philippines during- the first three hundred \'ears after the settlement of the Philippines bv the Spaniards. It must be remem- bered that all communication between Spain and the islands was kept up by way of Mexico until 18 18, when Mexico freed herself from Spanish rule. The Philippines are not on the direct course of the regu- lar mail lines which ply along the coast of China, and are seldom visited bv tourists, and thus their natural beauties have not been seen and enjoyed to the extent that most other lands have been. Their delightful climate has not 47° An American Cruiser in the East been known; and the quaint old city ot Manila has not been much explored nor its beauties cnjo\'ed or appreciated, e\'en b\ main who think the\ ha\ e seen the world. The Philippines consist ot some one tliousand islands, islets, and rocks, which contain 152,500 square miles of as \'aried and beautiful scener\' and tertile lands as can be tound under the sun. The climate is a perpetual sunmier, where the thermometer ranges between 60' and 90", and there are three well-marked seasons ot the \ear, — the hist cold and di"\', lasting from No\'eniber to March ; when it becomes warm, but is still dr\-, until June; when the wet season bea-ins, and lasts until No\'ember. I he land is clothed with a rich verdure that is interspersed with beautiful Rowers and trees throughout the \"ear. The numerous mountains, dark valleys and lowlands., waterfalls, cascades, ba\-s, and streams make it an ideal home tor the lounger or health-seeker; and the gentle breezes which spring up at the setting of the sun o;i\-e strength and lite. Almost e\'er\- torm ot life thri\-es here, while about eight millions ot inhabitants enjoy its bounty and beauties. The principal islands are -Luzon, Panay, Negros, Cebu, Saman, Mindanao, and Leyte. Manila, on the island of Luzon, Cebu, on the island of Cebu, Ilo Ilo, on the island of Panay, and Zamboango, on Mindanao, are the open ports tor foreign trade ; but the regulations and restrictions are almost prohibitive, e.xcept at Manila, where there is more liberality, but many obstructions and hindrances to commerce exist even there. It these regulations were properly modified and intelligentlv administered, these would become thriving cities ot vast proportions, for they are sur- rounded by countries that arc proverbially fertile, rich in mineral deposits, and teeming with a nativ e population that is eager to have restrictions to their industry removed. The Spaniards have been in possession of the coast of the islands tor more than three hundred v cars ; but the natives Appendix 471 in the foot-hills and on the high lands ha\e ne\cr been broLight into subjection to them, as the\' ha\e alvva\ s resisted and waged fierce war against then' would-be masters. The Spaniards found the islamls settled bv a brown race, supposed to be descended from Malays, whose ancestors settled here many centmaes ago, and who had reached a hi^h state of- ci\-ilization before their ad\ent. The people of the northern islands, including L.uzon, are called " I'agalogs ; " those of the middle islands, "\'isa\as;" and the southern, " Sulus." ] he 'I agalogs are of medium stature, copper- coloi'ed, inclinmg to brown, with pleasant features, black e\es, small, well-firmed nose, large mouth, small and deli- cate hands ajid tect, coarse black hair, and scant beaid. The\" ha\ e generous instincts, and aie the most ci\ilized and hospitable ot all these people. The \'isayas, who in- habit the southern middle islands, are descended from the Tagalogs amalgamated with the Mussulmans of the far South, and are less ci\ili7ed, ha\ ing brutish instincts. Negros was peopled b\' crimnials who fled from Lir/.on and its neighboring islands, and are the lowest order of people on the islands. The\' were a lawless set until about fifty years ago, when the\' committed some terrible atrocities, and extraordinar\" means were used to subdue them, and thev were brought under subjection. These races ha\e alwa\s hail gi'c at antipatln- tor each other, and the people of each despise those of the (jthers to this daw The people ot Sulu and the tribes in the s(juthern middle islands — Basilin, Balihac, Paragua, and Aiindanao — reject all authorit\' except that of their own chiefs and the protectorate of the Sultan of Sulu. The\- are belie\'ers in Mahomet, and are impatient at all o\'ertures to change their relii^ion. It is belie\'ed that the sultanate was founded, about eight hundred \xars aij;o, hv Mussulmans from India and China. The present capital of the sultan is at i\'Ia\burn. Early in the sixteenth century, Hernando de Maghallans, 4/2 An American Cruiser in the East a Portuo-uese nobleman of iiood education, disgusted with the treatment which he received in his own country, abjured Portugal, and became a Spanish subject. The King of Spain received him kindly, and on August lO, 1519, under the patronage of Charles I. of Spain, and with the blessing ot the Pope, he set sail from San Lucae de Banameda on a voyage of discovery, with the ships, "La Trinidad," "San Antonio," "Victoria," "Santiago," and " Concepcion." On December 13, 15 19, he arrived at Rio Janeiro, and from there followed the coast line of South America in search of an opening into the Pacific Ocean. After many hardships, incident to mutinies amongst some of his follow- ers, the rigor of the climate, and lark of fresh pro\ isions and water, on October 28, 1520, he beheld for the first time the open water which connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, — the strait which now bears his name, — and vindicated the prognostications of Columbus that a water route must exist from Europe to the far East bv way ot the west. On November 26, 1520, he found himself on the broad Pacific, and boldly stood to the northward and west- ward; and on March 16, 1521, he reached the Ladrone Islands, and sailed along the north coast of Mindanao. During Easter week ufthe same )ear he arri\'ed at the en- trance to the Butuano River, where the first mass in the Philippines was celebrated. The natives were curious, friendly, and hospitable; and to show his appreciation of them, he took formal possession of their country in the name of his roval master, Charles L The Butuano king guided Maghallans' fleet to the fertile island of Cebu, where they arrived on April 7, and built a rude church in which to house their sacred vessels and celebrate the sacraments. The natives at Cebu were at war with the people of the island of Magton ; and on April 25, i 521, Maghallans went over to Magton to assist in an attack upon them, when he was mortally wounded by a poisoned arrow. Thus perished Appendix 47^ the man who had added lustre to the Spanish flao; and the "Pearls of the Orient " to Spain's domain. In 1570, Miguel de Legaspi fitted out an expedition in Mexico and sailed for the Philippines, where he completed the annexation of all the islands to the throne of Castde. AV^hile at Cebu, Legaspi heard wonderful stories of a natnx city further up the coast, called MavniJa, whose people did a great trade with the Chinese. In 1 571, he went up to see the wonderful place; and as his mission was to grab evervthlng \aluahle, he negotiated with the King of Maynila, and soon made the king accept the protection of the King of Castile. Legaspi was so pleased with the cit\' and its surroundings that he declared Mavnila to he the capital of the Philippines, and Ccbu was handed o\er to the ecclesias- tical authoritw From time immemorial the Chinese ha\'e been coming to iMa\-nila in junks laden with silks and the rich wares of Canton and Amo\-, which thev bartered to the nati\'es ; and in later \-ears, when the go\'ernment at Ma\"nila became more stable, the Chinese began to locate there and inter- marry with the nati\es. They soon became so numerous that a portion ot the city was designated for their residence. Several times the Chinese ha\'e been in unsuccessful rebel- lion against the Spanish authority. The population of Manila is now about 350,000, of which number 60,000 are Chinese and 10,000 Chinese half-castes; and there are about 40,000 Chinese and Chinese half-castes in the islands outside of Manila. The Tagalog, Visaya, Moro, and Chinese languages and some thirty dialects of them are spoken by the people on the islands, but Spanish is the official language. The Philippine Islander is a yer\' matter-of-fact person ; there is yery little of the dreamer about him. He sleeps in the middle of the day in a shady place, but is wide awake and enterprising at all other times. He is a reasoning 474 ^^^^ American Cruiser in the East creature, who is always asking the why of everything. He loves to be free, — free as the night breezes of his own Philippines; but circumstances make him restless and a wanderer. He is easily managed by honest treatment. He loves to follow a brave leader, but despises a coward. He is as sensitive as a woman, as brave as a lion, and makes a fine soldier or sailor. If he realizes that he has done wrong, he will make any reparation in his power; but if he feels that he has been wronged, he will follow his enemy to the furthermost part of the earth for his rexenge. This accounts for the wonderfully brave fight he is now making against his Spanish foes. Their motto has been, " The end justi- fies the means ; " and the Philippine Islander believes them to have been the authors ot all his woes. Owing to his inability to comprehend a religion ot love when administered by torture and bv force, he has become insincere, and it has made no further impression upon his mind than that due to its outward obser\ance. He promises all things, but may perform none ; his moral sense has been blunted by the tyrannical acts ot his masters, and a lie is no sin to him. He needs to be grasped by the hand, and to ha\'e whispered into his ear the magic words, " Mv brother," instead of being brained with a brazen crucifix by a " relic of the Inquisi- tion," or throttled with a Spanish bayonet. He will make a good, loyal subject or citizen under a just and honest government, which is his ideal and hope; but he is now restless and impatient under oppression. The Friars have been the actual rulers of the Philippines since 1 571, when they commenced to convert the heathens of these islands. The Augustinian, Dominican, Franciscan, and Recoleto Orders ha\'e always had the civil and military to do their bidding, and there have always been jealousies and contentions between them, which have been closely watched by the natives, whose disgust of the foreign yoke has been greatly increased thereby. There have been fierce Appendix 47^ and otttimes bloody contests between the Friars and the governors, in which the latter have almost always been the losers. Any go\'ernor-general who displeases the nn)nks is recalled. General Despujolo had to leave in 1892, after onl\' eitrht months ot office, because he did not please the priests, and General Blanco was recalled at their instigation. Foreman writes ; — " There has been much discontent amongst the secular native priests because the monks insisted upon holding the incumbencies, notwithstanding the rules ot their own orders and the decree of the Council of Trent, which forbade it. The Friars nipped this native ambition bv instigating a revolt ot the troops at Cavite and charging the plot to the native priests. In 1872 four native priests were publiclv executed for it, and it was declared that native priests were incompe- tent to hold incumbencies. Several ot the best tamilies of Manila were banished and robbed of their property at the same time. " There are about six hundred and twenty parishes in Manila, of which the Friars unlawfully hold about ninetv- tlve per cent. A Spanish parish priest is above all civil law ; he cannot sue or be sued. He is independent of all state authority, and meddles in every affair of the town- ship by recognized right; if he cannot have things go his way, he smgles out his opponent tor reyenge, and alwavs obtains it. " I remember meeting the expedition sent North from Manila in i 88 I, to reduce men who haye never been brouo-ht under subjection. It was a total failure, but the general was rewarded with the title of ' Conde de la Union,' and a ' 7"e Deum ' was chanted in the capital in thankso;ivinff for imaginary victories. The theory which soothed the con- sciences of the first military leaders was that the soul must either be prepared for salvation in the living man, or the body must be annihilated. For generation after generation 476 An American Cruiser in the East raids were repeatedly made on the natives for the crime of passive resistance to what they could not comprehend. With the cry of ' Viva Castilla! ' bands of Spanish soldiers opened the way with blood for the monks to enter into the breach and palliate the wound with silvery phrases to the terror-stricken converts. The cry of ' Castilla ' has come to represent everything that is terrible beyond all hope of mercv. 'Castilla' in the north, and 'Cochila' in the south mean the same, and it is common to hear mothers frighten their children into good behavior and quietness with the dread word, ' Castilla.' " From 157 1, when Legaspi took possession ot Manila, until 18 19, when Mexico threw off the Spanish yoke, these beautiful islands were virtually dependencies of Mexico, and during all these years there was no direct communica- tion between them and Spain except through Mexico. There has always been a struggle between the merchants of the Philippines and the home country for liberty to trade freely with Mexico and China, — their natural markets, — but the Spanish king and his advisers always restricted this trade as much as possible, as they were anxious to retain the Mexican markets for the merchants of Spain. Their theory seemed to be that Philippine goods must be paid for in Mexican dollars, which would partially close the Mexi- can markets to the merchants of Spain, and, at the same time, supply the Philippines with R/lexican dollars with which to purchase the rich silks and fabrics of China, for their own use and for trade with Mexico. The arrival of a junk from China or a galleon from Mexico was an event in the annals of Manila. The traders would swarm about her in their out-rigger canoes, the news would be published, friends greeted, strangers scanned, the wonderful goods displayed, or the rough kegs of Mexican dollars would be sent on shore, while the noise of gongs, tom-toms, and beating drums would be deafening behind Appendix 477 the eves of the junk ; or the dignified friar would offer his thanks tor a sate arri\ al at the Httle oratory under the ban- ner of his far-away CastiUa. In 1572, Li Ala Han landed at Manila with about two thousand Chinese, but he was defeated and driven out by the Spaniards and nati\es, under Juan de Solcedo. In 1606 fi\'e ships ot the Netherlands blockaded the islands, hut they were finalK' destroved bv the Spanish fleet. In 1762, Ma- nila was taken h\ the British, but was ceded back to Spain in 1764 for a ransom of one million pounds sterling, which was never paid. The public re\enue is about fifteen million dollars per annum, of which the larger part is raised from direct taxes, customs, and monopolies, and this could easilv he doubled bv a liberal s\'Stem. No matter what the result cjt the Spanish-American war may be, it would be one of the blackest crimes ot history to hand these natne people back to Spain, or to gi\'e them up to anv monarchical go\ ernment. Thev ha\ e always wanted libert\', and ha\'e fought the Spaniards for it on manv a hotly contested field since 1522. All they ask is a chance for life, liberty, and the pursuits of happiness, and they care not whether it be a republic ot their own, or some form de\'ised for them by the great United States of North America. When Dewey fired his first shell on the first of May, it proclaimed liberty throughout these Island seas and bays, and echoed back liberty as it struck down the " Reina Cristina " and the Spanish fleet, since which time the natives have been " Coming tro)Ti the hill-tops Coming from the plains, Shouting the battle-cry of freedom These people need steamships ot from one hundred to five hundred tons to trade amongst the islands ; they need 478 An American Cruiser in tire East steaniNhips of from thi'ee thousand to hve thoiisaiul tons to trade with the United States and other parts ot the woild; thev need rail\va\s, locomotucs, and cars tor ijitcrnal traffic; and the\ need thni diess-goods, all sorts ot tliin wliite goods, insertions and laces, black and white prints of thin cotton, silk and woollen g(K)ds, thiu-wcn'en and knit goods, fancy and staple hardware, tin ware, groceries, canned goods and flour, steam-engincs, pumps, sugai-mills, agricultural im- plements, furniture, books and stationery, and our public- school s\stem. Thev can pay tor these with sui^ai", tobacco, hemp, camphor, rice (which are produced in great quanti- ties), coal, gold, and many \'arieties ot beautitul hard woods. Wh)' should our people not ha\-e this trade? Appendix III NAV'AL BATTLE OF CAVITE U. S. S. " Baltimorc,"" Off C"a\-itc, Manila Bay, July lo, iSgg. A PAGE has been written in Spanish-American history in Asiatic \\'aters. Two of the proudest nations on earth ha\"e met in conflict, in their terrible steel monsters, and the conclusion «-as short, sharp, and decisne. The Spanish fleet was annihilated, and the starr\" banner floats o\'er the conquered baw On the 25th of March, 1898, the U. S. S. '' Baltimore "' lett Honolulu, H. I., with ammunition for the fleet in Asiatic waters, and arri\"cd at ^'okohama, japan, on the loth ot Aprd, where she was filled up with coal and other stores ; on the 15th she left Yokohama, and arri\"cd at Hong-kong, China, on the lid, \\diere she was docked, cleaned, and painted, chani^inL^ the white ot peace tor the smoke-color ot war. She was filled up with coal, and a bcLrmning was made to strip the \essel for the horrible work that might be betore her. ••'Our f]ritish Cousins" at Hong-kong notified iis to iea\'e their port, as the\" objected to our making an\" prepa- rations for war in their v\'aters, and the tollowing Proclama- tion of Xeiitralit\" was issued b\- the acting (jo\-ernor ot the Colom' : — " Whereas, the Rielit Honfirablc jiiseph Chamberlain, Her Majesty's Principal Sccretarx' of State lur the Colniiies, lias in- formed the Goyernment of this Culon\- that war has unhappily 480 An American Cruiser in the East broken out bct\veen the Kingdom of Spam and the United States of America, and has communicated Her Majest)-'s commands that all of her subjects shall observe a strict neutrality in and during the said war, and shall abstain from violating or contravening either the laws and statutes of the realm in their behalt; or the laws of nations in relation thereto, as they will answer to the contrary at their peril." Then follow extracts from the Act, which passed in the thirty-third and thirty-fourth year of Her Majesty's reign, and is intituled "An Act to regulate the conduct of Her Majesty's subjects during the existence of hostilities between foreign states with which Her Majesty is at peace," the subjects dealt with being illegal enlistments, illegal ship- building, and illegal expeditions. On the 25th of April the fleet moved out to Mir's Bay (which is on the Chinese coast, a short distance from Hong- kong), where it anchored the same afternoon. On the afternoon of the 27th, Mr. Williams, the U. S. Consul to Manila, who had left Manila a few days before and had taken refuge in Hong-kong, took up quarters on the U. S. S. " Baltimore," and brought us a copy of the procla- mation of the Go\ernor-General of the Philippines. This is extremely interesting in \ iew of later e\'ents, and reads as follows : — Extraordinary Proclamation OF TFE Governor-General of the Philippine Islands Spaniards : Between Spain and the United States of North America hostili- ties have broken out. The moment has arrived to prove to the world that we possess the spirit to conquer those who, pretending to be lo\-al friends, take advantage of our misfortunes and abuse our hospitality, using means which civilized nations count unworthy and disreputable. The North American people, constituted of all the social excrescences, have exhausted our patience and provoked «var Sis '\ % . \ •>:» 'x ^jo ^X •s-S 1^ / ''■o>. ft; s ~%. ^•5 c 1^ 5 s ^ 1 \i 1 "' ^ Appendix 4S3 with their perhdiiiiis machinations, with their acts of treachcr\-, with their outrages against the law ot nations and international conventions. The struggle will he short and decisive. The God of victories will give us one as brilliant and coinplete as the righteousness of our cause demands. Spain, which counts upon the s\ mpathies of all the nations, will emerge triumphantU- from this new test, humiliating and blasting the ad\enturer3 from those states that, without cohesion and without a histor\", offer to humanit\' onlv infamous traditions and the ungrateful spectacle ot Chambers in which appear united insolence and defamation, cowardice and cvnicism. A squadron manned hv foreigners, possessing neither instruction nor discipline, is preparing to come to this archipelago with the ruffianl\" intention of robbing us of all that means lite, honor, and libertv. Pretending to be inspired bv a courage ot which the\" are incapable, the North American seamen undertake as an enterprise capable of realization the substitution of Protestantism for the Catholic religion \ou profess, to treat vou as tribes retractor\- to civilization, to take possession of \'Our riches as if they were un- acquainted with the rights of propert\-, and to kidnap those per- sons whom (hev consider useful to man their ships, or to be exploited in agriculture or industrial labor. \'ain designs ! Ridiculous boastings ! Your indomitable braverv will suffice to tru^trate the attempt to carrv them into realization. You will not allow the faith \'ou profess to be made a mock of, impious hands to be placed on the teinple of the true God, the images \-ou adore to be thrown down b\- unbelief The aggressors shall not profane the tombs of your fathers ; the\- shall not gratitV their lusttlil passion^ at the cost of S'our wives' and daughters' honor, or appropriate the property your industr\' has accumulated as a provision for your old age. No ! thev shall not perpetrate any of the crimes inspired by their wickedness and covetousness, because )-our valor and patriot- ism will suffice to punish and aba.^e the people that, professing to be civilized and cultivated, have exterminated the natives of North America instead of bringing to them the lite ot civilization and progress. 484 An American Cruiser in the East Philipinos ! prepare for the struggle, and, united under the glorious Spanish flag, which is ever covered with laurels, let us fight with the conviction that victor\- will crown our efforts, and to the calls of our enemies let us oppose, with the decision ot the Christian and patriot, the cry " Viva Espana ! " Your General, (Signed) Basado Acustin Da\'ILLa. Manila, April 23, 1S9S. At 2.15 P.M., Oil April 27, the fleet was formed in line in the following order, — flagship " Olympia," " Baltimore," " Raleigh," "• Petrel," " Concord," and " Boston," with the revenue steamer " WcCulloch " and the transports "Nanshan " and " Zafiro " on the oft' side of the war \es- sels, — and started for the entrance to Manila Bay. Soon after dark the commanding officers were called to the flag- ship, and when they returned the following telegram was published ; — Dewey, — Hostilities have commenced ; begin operations in the Philippines ; capture or destroy the Spanish fleet. — Long. On the afternoon of April 30, the " Baltimore " fired the first gun of the war in the Eastern hemisphere. The " Con- cord " and the " Boston " were making a reconnoissance in Subig Bay under the protection of the " Baltimore," when a schooner flying the Spanish flag was made out on the opposite side of the entrance to the bay. The " Bal- timore " fired a shot across the schooner's bow from one of her small guns, when the astonished skipper hauled down his sails and hove to. A boarding party from the " Balti- more " brought the skipper and tour ot his men on board, where they were examined and permitted to lea\e, as they did not even know that a state of war was existing between Spain and the United States. When the three vessels -(^■' Appendix 481^ rejoined the fleet, about ilark, the eommaiiding officers reported on hoard the flagship, and when thev returned, the ships' companies were intornied that the foits at the entrance to Alan da l!av weie to he passetl that ni^ht. 1 he fleet steamed along slo\\d\-, uiulei- a beautiful mooidight that was now bi-ight, or now hidden h\ flccc\' cloutls ; and at 10.30 "Battle Stations'" was sminJed t'or action, when (.ifficers and men jumped to their places as the Star-Spangled Ijainier was set at each mast-liead and on each side ot the atter rigging. Soon we were to the south of Corregidor, the Gibi-altar of the Philippines, and after the flagship "OUnipia," the " l-Saltinnne," and the " Ra- leigh " \s-ere well headed up the chainiel, the batteries of Restinga, or trade, and on L'oiregidor opened their Hre upon us. 1 he nu)on had sunk low, but was \ et aho\e the horizon. Hissing shells chased t-ach other o\er us, or fell short, as we steamed slowh' on, and onl\- returned the fire when we thought we cotild locate a flash, as we were le- ser\'ing our ammunition for bigger game in the morning. In about two hours the entire fleet had slowh passed the batteries, had passed o\er the torpedoes and the mines un- harmed, and was heading tor Ca\ ite, the Spanish na\ al station, which is about tweKe miles below Manila. H\ the time we were well inside of the ba\ , the moon liati set, and we were in darkness, onU' relie\'ed by the tv\Mnkling stars which showed us the wa\ as we timed our speed so as to reach C'a\'ite at earh' dawn. The scenes on board the " Baltimore " were no\el and stranixe, e\en to a sailor's e\e. The bulkheads had been torn awa\- tVom the officers' (|uarters and gi\en into old Neptune's keepino;, and temporar\ hangings and curtains were impnn'ised to screen the inmates from public gaze. Men of the gun's crews watched h\- turns, and slept about the decks, belted and read\ ; the men of the powder division slept, spoon fashion, upon the hard deck of the ward-room ; 486 An American Cruiser in the East and some were in uniform, but many were begrimed and stripped to the waist for the past and the coming tray. Below, in the depths of the vessel, the firemen toiled be- fore the great boiler fires, where intense heat and weird flames gave the place the appearance of a hell, and they looked like begrimed imps of very darkness, dancing and panto- miming, as they worked their fires, or threw on more fuel; and the engineers and machinists watched and handled the great engines of the smoke-colored monster that was carry- ing horrible war up the peaceful bay on this beautiful first May morn. At 5.05 in the morning, which was calm, clear, and as beautiful as any that has ever smiled upon the Philippines, the flagship made signal ; "• Prepare for general action." The " Baltimore " had been readv all night, and the men and officers jumped to their guns and stations, the click of the breach-plug could be heard as others manned the am- munition hoists, while a tew poor firemen who had been let out of their hot holes to get a tew lifegiving breaths of the fresh morning air, rushed down to their infernal-like compartments about their fires, and the marines mustered about the after eight-inch guns, all ready for the fray. Our vessels steamed very slowlv, in the same order in which thev had passed the forts at Corregidor, except that the " McCulloch " lay oft' in the bay with the two transports. At 5.15 a challenge shot was fired at the head of our column by one of the batteries on Point Cavite, which was immediately followed by the Spanish vessels " Castilla " and " Don Antonio de Ulloa " using their port batteries, as they were moored bow and stern off Point Cavite. The flagship " Reina Cristina," a protected cruiser with a main battery of six 5.2 inch guns, the cruisers " Isla de Cuba," "Isla de Luzon," and the " Don Juan de Austria," and the gunboat "Isla de Mindanao," were under steam, ■Till rm i Ji'^A Spanish Flag-ship and Castilla ix Forhground. United States Fleet in Backgrulnd. Dritisii Merchant Vessel in JMiddle- GROUND. Manila IIarlor, 8 a. ai., May i, 1S98. Efeect of 5-INCH Shell in Malite Appendix 487 and occasionallv retired behind Point Ca\itc, — no doubt trying to lead us in o\ er tlieir torpedoes, which were be- lieved to be planted in the entrance and bay. The gunboats "General l,e/,o,"' "Marques del Duero," "El Correo," and another one were iriside the basin behind Point Cavite, trom whence the\' could fire upon us without our being able to see just where the\' were. Oiu' \cssels steamed ni column up past the torts and fleet, turniiiL:; and passing down aij;am, making H\'e long loops durino- the tirst engagement, our range \ar\ing trom fi\e thousand to twent\-fi\e hundred \ ards, which could not be shortened on account ot the shallow water. Earh" in the tight, a torpedo boat was gallantly dashed out ti-om Ponit C"a\"ite at high speed, eyidently intending to torpedo the flagship or the " Baltimore;"' but the secondary batteries ot tliose \'essels were handled with such precision, skill, and rapidit\- that the boat was hastih' turned and headed tor the shore, when a well-directed eight-inch shell from the "Baltimore" soon tinished her. Still the cruel vyork went on, each \essel ot each fleet taking e\'erv ad\ an- tage possible to destro\' its ad\'ersary. During the entire engagement there was no breeze, and the dense black smoke trom the tunnels hung like a pall about the slow-mo\ing vessels, and for more than two mortal hours the carnage reigned. Shot and shell flew through the air trom the \ es- sels of both fleets and the shore batteries ; huge tongues ot black-red flame licked intf) the dense smoke, and the (|uick, sharp crack of the rifle, the thunder roar of the enemy's guns, the hissing of flying shells, the pra\'ers, the moans, and the curses of the wounded and the d\'ing, and the lusty cheers for a successful shot, all mingled and went up with the great smoke-crowned columns of flame, as \'essel atter vessel was fired, and finally exploded and sank, making a scene of wreck and death that could only be produced by cruel war. "Whii- toTx; ^^^ril TTJ^ illrfe-lT . ir_ _ i.r Oii 's^trLcreTv r^rz.-; >^: "^ o:v-r-.- "Dss-; - ^^^ ^^vO A :Sf,\NIM1 l*"LA(.-^^im' " Rl'.INA LKtSllMA,'' Mav I, 1S9S. ' li-LA L.i^ Ia!,:un," M V\ 1. l^igS. Appendix 489 she was sent inside to follow the enemy up, soon after which the eneni\' hoisted the white flag. The " Concord '" started after a large Spanish transport, the " Isla de Mindanao," which was supposed to ha\e mu- nitions ot war, and which had been firint^ upon us during the morning. The "Concord" sent a shot across her bow, which was unheeded ; then she sent a six-inch shell into her, setting her on lire. The transport still endea\'ored to escape, but the "Olvmpia" headed her off, and sent an eight-inch shell through her, when she burst ijito flames and was run aground, where she soon blew up The saucv little "Petrel" went in amonirst e\'A\t \essels and brouu;ht ofi" five torpedo boats m tow. On the afternoon of May 2, the " Raleigh " and the " Baltimore " went down to Corregidor and demanded the surrender ot the torts. The commandant v\'as a little obstinate; hut when informed that his forts were to be destroyed whether he surrendered or not, and that "the demand to surrender was in the interest ot humanity and to sa\e bloodshed," he made an unconditional surrender, and his three hundred and eighty officers and men were paroled ; whereupon the " Raleigh " and the " Baltimore " returned to the fleet. Corregidor, Ca\ite, with its \'ast shops and stores, and the bay are ours in two da\ s ; and we ha\ e a home in the far East it we choose to hold it. Manila means the Philip- pines, but we must await the arri\-al ot troops to hold it. The Spanish made a splendid fight for their country and their king. They poured out their blood like water, and freel)' ga\e their li\es to their dut\-. More than one halt of the men eno-aged were either killed or wounded. Their greatest loss was in their engine departments, where in some cases the entire f(jrce \yent down with the ship. Yankee pluck and Western daring were t(jo much tor their bra\'e foes. Not one of the Spanish ships hauled down 490 An AnKTn.aii C niisci^ in tlu' I'. .1st tlu-ir roldls, r\i'i\ uiii- of ihcni 1hiii;\ iilliii Miiik oi .ili.m- d(MH'il with rciiois ll\iii!:. I'lu' Sp.inish Kiss w.is 4S11 killed aiul "i.io wcuiiulnl, \\'\u\c the Aimm.iii loss w.is hiil iij;lil sli^luK w.iuiuli-il, .ill ol llu- " l'>.iltiin«>ii-." i'lu- .S|).inisli loililu .11 Ions wru- .is IdIIuws; — /■'iir/s ,niJ liiilln ii'^ ,il ihr l'jili,iii, , l-i .]l,i)uhi H,i\'. I'unl.i (.1111(1.1 II.KU r\ . I ..isisl I'lllllt K.il Iti \ . C'cinr^uiiii Kills .iiiil II.illi'i ics. I'ulci (.'.ili.illo Isl.uul r..illii\ . i',1 I'V.iilc Ki.i k ll.illci \ . Kc'slinu,.! I'uiiu r>.illci\. /'«/■/: ,// C.ii'ilr. C '.mot .1(1 n.illci \ . .SaiiL:;lc\ i'liiiil l)alIiT\'. I'm /\ III ,1 liiinlii . I.IIIKI I'lllt, ICII-IIkIi k 1 1I|)|) ( ill lis. W'.ills 111 the dill I II \ , I \\il\ r Irii lliuk,.iiul si ii'Iil'! luiinl with ihrrc t hukiussis (il h.iLis nl s.iiid I. ml Iciitithwisc. I'lu liijhlhiiiisc Iciil at llu- nuiiith cil the I'.isM' Ri\ii. .S'/),////iA /',i.w7i ,// Ciirili, M,i\ /, /,\'.;,\'. Ailniiial M(iiitii|ii. Ciins. Ciiiniii iii.l.'i. Rrina d isliiia ( llaL'ship ), .' 1 L. ('aidnsa. (limned C^lstill.i, '.' A. M. de ( )lna. (.Sniik Dun Antiiiiio de Ulida, 1.; V,. Rcihimi. (Sunk Isia de C'liha, K 1 |. Sidi .m h. (Sunk Isia de I ar/,ciii, K 1 | . L. I luni.in. ( Sunk Don J 11,111 (k- All si I ia, I ^ I . de l.i C 'one 1 1.1. ( IIiii ned ]'d C'oiiid, 7 1 '. |',s( iideia. ( liiinied ' Castili-a ' Ma'/ 1 i8g "San Antonio i^e Ulloa/' Mav 1,1898. Appendix ^oj Guni. Commandfr. Geneial Lezo, 6 F. Bcnovcnto. (Burned.) Marques del Duero, 5 S. AI. Guerra. (Burned.) Villa Lobas, 4 J- M. Estanga. (Burned.) Unknown Gunboat, (Burned.) Manila (transport), 2 J. Ozamrz. (Captured.) General Alova, (Captured.) Rapido, (Captured.) Hercules, (Captured.) ^i-^ollo, ^ (Captured.) Isla de Mindanao (armed transport), (Burned.) United States I'eswls at Cavite^ May /, iSqS. Commodore George De\ve\ , U. S. N., Commanding. Guns. Commander. Olvmpia flag sh ip)^ 14 C. V. Gridlev. Baltimore 10 N. M. Dyer.' Raleigh, II [. B. Coghlan. Boston, 8 Frank \Vildes. Concord, 6 Asa Walker. Petrel, 4 E. P. Wood. On the 20th of Ma\", Aguinaldo, the native insurgent leader, with members ot his statt, arrixed at Ca\'ite, and immediately began to assemble his followers ; since which time these bra\e people ha\-e captured nearlv all the Spanish strongholds in the province ot Ca\ ite, taken thousands of prisoners, and armed themseh'es b\- their captures. They have worked their wa\' to the outposts ot Manila and control all the countr\' about it. On the 30th of June, U. S. transports, conx'o\'ed by the U. S. cruisers " Charleston " and " ISaltimore," arri\'ed in the bay with the first instalment of U. S. soldiers for the occupation of Manila and the Philippines. They were composed of a battalion of the Fourteenth Regular Infantry, 492 An American Cruiser in the East the Third Oregon Infantrv, the First California Infantry, and a detachnu^nt of California Heavy Artillery, all under the command of Brigadier-General Anderson, U. S. Army. The troops were speedily landed at the Ca\'ite Arsenal, and quartered in the Spanish barracks just outside ot the Arsenal. Aiiuinaldo's nati\'e forces mo\ed into old Ca\ite, the adjoinini^ towns, and closer to xManila, to make room tor our troops, who soon fraternized with their natix'c aux- iliaries. The nati\-es regard our people as their libci'ators from Spanish cruelt\- and oppression, and do e\xrything in their power t(j help on the good cause. The following Spanish account of the na\-al battle of Ca\ite, taken from the '' Diano de Aianila " of May 4, 1898, is interesting ; — A Na\'al Surprise When the encm\''s squadron was sighted in perfect line of battle through the cloLids of a misty dawn on the morn- ing of the first of May, gloom and smprise vycrc general among the people of Manila. At last these ships had strained thcii' boldness to the point of appearing on our coast and def\dng our batteries, which showed more courage and \alor than effect wdien the\- opened fire on the squadron. It needs something more than courage to make projectiles penetrate — indeed, it does! E\■I•;R^■ Man to his Station I he ine{|ualit\' ot iiur batteries when compared with those (jt the squadron which alarmed the inhabitants of Manila at fi\"e in the morning was enough to transform the tranqiul character ot our tropical temperaments. ^Vhlle ladies and children in carriages or on foot fled in fright to seek refuge in the outhing suburbs and adjacent Appendix 493 villages around the capital, fi'om danger multiplied by their imagination, e\ery man, from the statel\' personage to the most humble worlvman, merchants and mechanics, Span- iards and natives, soldiers and ci\ ilians, — all, we repeat, sought their stations and put on their arms, confident that ne\er should the encmv land in Manila unless he passed o\-er their corpses. ^ ct from the lirst moment the strength ot the enem\-"s armor and the power of his criins demon- strated that his ships were invulnerable to our encnnes and armaments; the hostile squadron would nexer ha\'e entered our bay had not its surety been guaranteed by its manifest superiority. Spectators and Observers The city walls, the church towers, the roofs of hii^h buildings, and all high places con\'enient for observation were occupied b\' those who were not retained bv their military duties within the walls, on the bridges, or at the advanced posts. The slightest details of the enemy's ships- were eagerly noted as the\' adv'anced towards Ca\ite in a line parallel with the beaches of Manila, as though they had just come out ot the Pasig Ri\'er. There were no gaps in the line, but the curious public hardly realized the disparity between their great guns and the pieces mounted on our fortifications. Some had glasses and others were without, but all seemed to devour with their eyes these strangers who, while bra\e, were not called upon to show their courage, since the range of their guns and the weak- ness of our batteries enabled them to preserve their impu- nity, while doing as much harm as they pleased. Remarks of the People All who appreciated the impunit\' with which the hostile ships manoeuvred, as if on a harmless parade, were full of such rage and desperation as belongs to the brave man who can make no use of his courage; to whom remains no 494 An American Cruiser in the East remeti sdy except an honorable death rather than a cowardly inacti\'it\-. A soldier of the First ]3attalion of Cazadores gazed at the squadron sweeping o\er the waters out of reach ot the fire of oiu- batteries, looked out and at the ships, then toward heaven, saying, "If Holy Mary would turn that sea into land, the Yankees would find out how we can charge in double time." And a crouching nati\'e staring out at the ships said, " lust let them come ashore and give us a whack at them." On they stood at full speed in column of battle, heading for Ca\ite with the decision due to a sense of safety and a firm assurance ot success. The Fic;ht seen from Manila For more than an hour and a half the bombardment held in suspense those whose souls followed the unequal struggle, in which the Spanish ships went down with their glorious banners fl\in!j;. What was woinw on in the waters of Cavite .? From Manila we saw, through glasses, the two squadrons almost mingled together in the clouds of smoke. This was not far from a triumph tor our side, considering the weakness ot our batteries. For once alongside the enemv, the cry ot "Boarders Awav ! " and the flash ot cold steel might ha\ e enabled our de\(.)ted seamen to disturb the calm in which watches and instruments were regulated and direct- ing those engines ot destruction. In the blindness of our rage how should we paint the heroic deeds, the prowess, the wa\'es ot \alor which burst forth from our men-ot-war? Those who tought beneath the Spanish flag bore themselves like men, as chosen sons of our native land, who never measure torces, nor yield to superior t(jrce in the hands ot an eneni\ ; who woukl rather die without ships than li\'e in ships which ha\e surrendered. 1 -9 ■ >;^ fi' c '/■■ "^ '^ 5 o f3 ?> 1 - ^ !*■ :■ -j ' •;. ■■ H k !- ■J ^l 3 u; J H H < Appendix 495 To name those who distinguished themseK'es in battle would require the publication of the entire muster-rolls of our ships, from captain to cabin-bo\'. To these victorious seamen of ours we offer congratulations ; laurels for the li\-ing; pra\'ers for the dead; for all, our deepest sJ:ratitude. Since we cannot reconstruct the bloody scene which was exhibited last Sunda\- in the waters of Ca\-ite, we will not attempt a description, which would only be a pale shadow ot great deeds descr\'ing a perpetual place in the pages of history. When the hostile squadron turned toward Ca\ ite, the crew ot the steamer " Isla de Mindanao " heard the drinns beating to quarters, and answered with enthusiasm, three rounds of cheers for the King, for the Queen, and for Spain, which echoed along our line. Later, until a quarter to five, absolute silence reigned. E\ervthing was readv. The idea of death was lost in ardor tor the fra\-, and ever\- e\e was fixed on the battle- flags wa\ Jul:; at our mastheads. In perfect and majestic order — wh\- should we deny this? — the ifine Yankee ships ad\anccd in battle-arrav. The " Ohmpia," bearing the admiral's flasj, led the column, followed b\ the other ships, steering at full speed towards Ca\'ite. The " Olym- pia" opened fire, and an instant reply came from the battery on the mole, which kept on firing at h\'e-minute inter- vals, while the iron-clad shaped her course for the " Reina Cristina " and " Castilla." Into both these ships she poured a steadv and rapid fire, seconded by the ships which fijllowed in her wake. Another ship which directed a heavy fire on our line was the "Baltimore;" and so the cannonade went on until a quarter to eight. At that moment the "Don Juan de Austria" ad\anced against the cnem\', intending to board the "Ohmpia," and if a tremendous broadside had not stopped her se]f-de\'oted charge, buth ships would perhaps ha\ e sunk t(j liie bottom. 496 An American Cruiser in the East The captain of the " Reina Cristina," seeing that the resolute attempt of his consoit had failed, advanced at full speed until within two hundred yards of the " Olympia," aiming to attack her. Then a shower of projectiles swept the bridge and decks, filling the ship with dead and wounded. Heroes and martyrs whom the nation will remember as long as it endures ! A dense column of smoke from the bow-compartment showed that an incendiary projectile, such as the law of God and man prohibits, had set fire to the cruiser. The ship, still keeping up her fire on the enemy, withdrew toward the arsenal, where she was sunk to keep her from falling into the hands of the Yankees. The desperation of the men of the " Reina Cristina " was aggravated by the sight of the "■ Castilla " also in a blaze, from a similar use of incendiary projectiles. The principal ships of our little squadron having thus been put out of action, the Yankee vessels, some of them badly crippled by the fire of our ships, and the batteries at Point Sangley, stood out toward Mariveles and the entrance of the ba\-, ceasing theii' fire and occupying themselves in repairing injuries until ten o'clock, when they began a second attack to complete their work of destruction. In this second assault the fire at the arsenal was ex- tinguished, and they continued to cannonade the blazing gunboats. One gunboat, which seemed to have nothing more venturesome to undertake, detached herself from the squadron and set to work to riddle the mail steamer " Isla de Mindanao." Now that the ships were in flames, the admiral, Senor Montojo, who had shown his flag as long as there was a vessel afloat, landed, and hostilities ceased. The only Spanish ship which had not been destroyed by Corner of uld Cit\ Wall, ^Manila i^Bav mde). Old City Wall, Manila (Land Sibij. Appendix' 497 lire or hv the cncm\ "s projectiles, sunk herself so that she could in no wise be taken. Such, in broad outlines, u'hich we cannot correct at this monien:, was the na\al battle of Ca\ite, in \\'hich the last glimpse ot our squadron showed the Spani>h flai;. A thousand sensational details ha\c reached us, which we would reprtidtice gladh, after the necessar\' corrections, if OLir pen w^juld ser\"e tor anNthiiiL:; except to sing the glor\- ot these mai"t\rs ot the nation. Perhaps to-niorrow or another da\', with tuller knowledge of the tacts, we can ttirnish our readers with many inter- esting details. To-da\- we limit ourseKes t(j a sketch ot the grand picture which was unrolled betore us on the first of Mav, beggino; our trieiids to excuse the defects which the\' ma\" note. The Killed and \\'ounued Killid : The Captaiji, Chaplain, Clerk, and Boatswain of the " Reina Cristina." Wounded: The Captains of the " Castilla " and "Don Antonio de Ulloa." The Execiai\-e Officer of the "Reina Cristina." A Lieutenant of the " Don Juan de x'\ustria." The Paymaster of the " Ulloa," the second Sur- geon of the " Cristina," the Surgeon of the " Ulloa," and Chief P^ngineers of the " Cris- tina" and " Austria." ViGILAN'CE By naval authority the most careful watch was kept in the ri\er as well as on the coast, to secure the defence of the port. Batteries The gunners of the batteries defending Manila and Ca\itc showed the highest degree of energy and heroism. Every 3- 498 An American Cruiser in the East one applauds the bra\'c artiller\-men who, by their cahnness and skill, diil all that was possible with the guns assigned to them, allowmsj; for their deticieneies and imperfections. The battery that did most harm to the enemy was the one t)n Point Sansj;le\' made up of Hontoria guns. From one of these (;uns came the shot \\-hich the " Boston " re- cei\ed, whde tour ships which had altogether sixt\'-five guns were pouruig their fires on this battery to reduce it to silence. One L^un ha\ ing been crippled, the other kept on pla\ ing, liiing whene\er damage could be done and avoiding waste ot ammunition. 'l\i one ot its shots is attributed the hurt which turned the " Baltimoie " from the tight. This gun must have greatly ajin()\'ed the Yankees, to judge bv the efforts they made to sdeiice its tn"es, toUowmii; it tip until six gunners had been killed and foin' woinuled. On this acc(.)unt it is proposed to demand the bestowal ot the lain-el-wi-eathed cross of San Fernando to the valiant gunners who ser\ed this battery. The Ltienta batter\' at Manila, which assailed the Yankee ships With much \igor, was the object of the enemy's special attention as he stood past the fortifications of Manila, head- ing toi" C'a\ite. (juiis were also mounted at the entrance of the bay on Coiregidor and Oaballo Islands, on Fl Fraile rock, on the south shore at Point Restinga and at Mariveles, Punta Ciorda, anJ Point Fasisi on the north shore. The guns on Corregidtjr Island were of about six-inch calibiT ; similar guns were mounted on the rock and on Point Restinga. I he other batteries had guns of smaller calibre and short range. Kind Treatment I he Spanish Olub, e\'er earnest in remedying misfortune, g;i\ e liberal help to the refugees who sur\i\ed from our ships (if war. Appendix ^gg Bread anmj Water Doubtless the Ci\'il Commission has arrant^ed to secure supphes tor the cit\-, hut it is certain since Sunday there has been great scarcity oi evervthing, and specuhitors have got what prices they cared to ask for articles of prime necessit\'. Alread\ people are growmg calmer, and the shops are open, and it is to be expected that Manila will go on resuming her ustial life and animation. The Country responds The great masses of the rin-al populati(jn of the Philip- pines, as well as the leaders ot the nation, have responded like loyal sons ot Spam, sharing our pains and assisting in our labors. Telecram The admiral, Seiior Montojo, has received a telegram ot congratulation from the Minister ot Marine, who, in his own name, and in the name ot the Oucen ot Spam, felici- tates the na\\' ut this aixhipelago tor gallant beha\ior on the dav ot Ca\ite. These are the terms ot the telegram referred to: " Honor and gl(jr\' to the Spanish Pleet which fought so heroically in the bay." No Papers After two davs of silence, in which our paper failed to sec the light, bv reason of exceptieinal circumstances oc- curring in Manila, and well known to all the public, we return to our regular issues, trusting in the good-will ot our subscribers. Appendix IV THE CAPTURE OF MANILA AND THE PHILIPPINES BY THE COMBINE!) SEA ANIJ LAND FORCES OF THE UNITED STATES, AUGUST IJ, 1898 U. S. S. " Baltimore," Manila, August I S, I S9S. As soon as the Spanish fleet had been annihilated, the insui-\-cs ul !ltc L'liiUj Stales. (Signed ) George Dewev, I^tar-AJiiiiyal. U. S N., coiiunanding U. S. SWr.'al Foi\es in Asiatic Station. To which the Goxernor-General rcphed : — Manila, August 7, 1S9S To the Maior-Gtnfral of the Army and the Renr-AJminil oj the Sii-ccil Forees of the United States : Gextlemex, — I have the honor to inform \-our Excellencies that at halt-pa^t twelve o'clock I received the notice with which you favored me, that after fort\--eiglu hours have elapsed vou mav begin operations against this fortified citv, or at an earlier hour if the forces under vour command are attacked hv mine. As vour notice is sent tor the purpose ot pro\-iding for the safety of non-combatants, I give thanks to \'our Excellencies for the humane sentiments \'0U have shown, and state that, finding m\'>elt surrnunded bv insurrectionar\' forces, I am without a place of refuge tor the increased number of wounded, sick, women, and children who are now within the walls. Respectfully, and kissing the hand of \'our Excellencies, (Signed) Ffrmix Jacdexes, Governor-General and t\iptain-Gencral of the Phil i /•fines. Our troops were not molested after this correspondence. A parle\' becran, and at halt-past citrht on Satiirda\" morii- incr, after a hea\ \" down-puur ot ram, the \'essels of our fleet, — flaL:;ship " Ohmpia," "Baltimore," " Monterey," " Raleigh," " Charleston," " Boston," " Petrel," " Callao " (captured Spanish gunboat), and the "Ohinpia's" steam tender, — with colors set at each masthead and with ships' 504 An American Cruiser in the East companies at battle stations, began to form in battle order. ^Vhile we were forming, the band of the British flagship "Immortalite" plaved the "Star-Spangled Banner," after which the "Immortalite'' and the " Iphigenia " went o\er and took positions, one at each end of the line ot the foreign men-of-\\-ar. The Japanese war \'essels remained olT Ca\ite. The "Olvmpia," "Raleigh," " Petrel," " Callao," and the "Ohmpia's" steam tender headed slowlv toward Fort Malate, while the " Alontere\- " went close in to the front of the cit\" to draw the encm\-'s fire, and the " Baltimore," "Charleston," and "Boston" acted as a reser\-e di\"ision, and the " Concord " remained near the Pasig Ri\'er. At half-past nine, it still being thick and raining, the " 01\"m- pia," " Raleigh, " Petrel," " Callao," and the " Ohmpia's " steam tender opened tire upon Fort Malate, and bv h\'e minutes past ele\en the guns of that foit were silenced. Then the left wing of our armv, under the command of Brigadier-General Green, rushed out of their trenches and made a dash for the fort. After a hand-to-hand encounter, which lasted for some minutes, the enemv stubbornlv fell back, disputincr e\'en,- inch of the ground, as our troops ad- \anced. The little "Callao" kept ahead, and threw shells into the enem\''s lines to clear the wav for our troops as the\" ad\"anced alone the beach and through the streets of Alalate (a suburb of Manila). The Luneta fort v^-as found to be exacuated ; when our men turned b\" it and returned to the beach, fiL'htin'.£ their wa\' up to the tcates of the old walled citw In the mean time the " Monterev" patrolled the entire water-front, and the other \ essels of the fleet proceeded alonir \'erv slowh, so as to ha\e our troops, at all times, well under the protection of our s:uns. At the same time the right wins; of the armv, under command of Brigadier-General .MacArthur, ad\ anced along the roads further remoxed from the water-front ana fouaht Appendix ^o^ its way to the gates of the old citv. Then the steam launch of the Belgian Consul, which haj been fulluwin- o\iv fleet duiing the action, took a i'eprescntati\-e of (leneral Alerntt from the atniv flagship ''Zatiro" and a tepix^entati^e of Admiral Dewev from the '^ ( )1\ nipia " mto the old citv of Manila, under a flag of truce, where they demanded the surrender ot the Philippnies. At half-past two in the after- noon the prelmiinary terms of surrender had been aLn'eed upon, and the launch returned, and at nine nnnutes past fi\e the United States flag replaced the Spanish flag on the plaza ot the old citw The guns of each ship thundered forth twent\-one guns, the Spaniards ceased to rule the Philippines, and Alajor-Cieneral Weslev Merritt of the United States Arm\- became the first Ameiican iinNernoi-, and took up his headquarters in the palace oi the Spanish ro\ al go\'ernor in the old cit\-. Thirty soldiers u-ere killed and se\ent\' wounded in the battle, and it is supposed that the enem\'s loss was about eight hundred killed and wounded. Incidfnts. Not a man of the fleet was injured in the battle. It is believed that this last defence of Manila was made b\- the native troops who remained lo\'al to Spain, as the Spaniards were not anxious tn renew their experienee^ ot the first ot Ma\' \\ uh us, \\diile the artiller\' of the right wing of the arm^' wa^ advancing, the Astor batter\- made a sharp turn in the road when the\' found themselves ambushed under a galling fire, and the situation was such that the\" could not sx\'ing their gtins amnnd to use them; so thev jumped t'rom their guns, and with sabre and re\oKcr in hand dashed at the enemv in the bush. In a tew nnnnents the regulars were in the WfViV, and the Spaniards fell back, but still kept up a hot tire with their rifle^. The Spaniards had scattered "blnck " "fig" Inmses, with loop- holes tor small arms, abntit the eountr\- to tiiininand the roads of approach to IVlanila. At block house No. 1 4 there w a- a hotly 506 An American Cruiser in the East contested fight for some minutes, where several were killed and many were wounded on both sides. [ust as tlie Philippines were surrendered to us, the Spaniards celebrated the event by burning one ot their gunboats and scuttling another, besides several smaller craft, just inside the entrance to the Pasig River. The Spaniards were ^varned against doing any more work of this kind ; and when it was explained to them that they would not look vcr\- dignified when dangling at the end ot a piece of Manila rope, the)' took the hint, and there were no more acts of vandalism. The Spanish troops were all disarmed and paroled ; their officers being allowed to keep their side arms, which they continued to wear about the town while puffing cigarette smoke and explaining how it happened. When the sun had set behind the western horizon, and darkness had hillen o\'cr land and sea, the German flagship " Kaiserin Augusta" steamed out of the bav with the late Governor-General Agustin and funilv on board, and conveved them to Hong-kong. Sunday was a quiet dav, and most of the vessels having refugees on board returned to the mouth of the Pasig. Father Doughert)', of General Merritt's stafi-", celebrated mass in the cathedral to an immense congregation. While the service lasted, it was well ; but when he made his address in the English language, there was con- sternation amongst the vast throng. On Mondav morning the British flagship " Immortalite " steamed over from her place in the foreign fleet, hoisted the Ameri- can flag at her masthead, and saluted it with twent\'-one guns, wdiile her band played the " Star-Spangled Banner " and " Yankee Doodle." She then took a new anchorage near our fleet, and was soon joined by her consort, the " Iphigenia." The English sce?ncd as much pleased over the victorv as our own people. The Civic Guard, lo\-al natives, are policing the cit\' under our control, and the custom-liouse and post-office are practiealb' operated bv the people who were in charge under Spanish rule ; ever)'thing goes on as usual, and the business ot the citv is being rapidly resumed. Some ot the women show a spiteful feeling against us, but that \sill Soon disappear, — at least, in the open manifestation. The citv is very short of provisions and goods of all kinds Horses, mules, and water-buftalo were used tor food ; and vegeta- Appendix 507 bles and fruits have been almost unknown for more than a month, — ever since the insurgents invested the cit\-. There is ver\" little friction, no mure than would be expected in getting an armv of thousands of men settled in a captured city and the islands in working order. The insurgents have retired from this neighborhood. At noon on August 1 6 an English steamer came in to the licet with news that hostilities had ceased. INDEX Index Aberdeen, the island of, Hong-kong, 400; di\\ -ducks at, 407. Aborigines, ot Fni-mosa, tlie, 325 ; ori- gin of, '525; their di\ ision into tribus, 1,2:. ; persnnal ai^.K-arance ot, ■^z^ ; defy the autliority of China, V5 ; their dress, -^2^; their honesty, ^25 ; burial customs ot, 325 ; wars com- mon among, ^2:, ; e\"idences of civili- zation among, -^2:;. Acrobats, juvenile, in Japan, SS. ActorSj Chinese, V'5- Actors, Japanese, 66. Adams, Will, the ^tory of, 72. Addamson, B. F., 405. Atrica, 51 ; Chinese emigrants in, 1,'^y. Agriculture, Chinese, 3SS. Aguinaldo, at Cavite, 491, 500 ; the na- tive forces of, 402; fraternizes widi the American forces, 492 ; begitis land operations against the Spaniai'.ls. 500; his declaration, 501, 502. Agustin, Go\ ernor-General, see Da- vi//a, Basaiio A'^nst'ni. Ah-Po, the author's Chinese guide, 348. Ah-Sin, the authrjr's Chinese guide, 232, 233. Aichi, the pref.--cture of, in Ia]")an, 112. '■ Aikuchi " (dirk), the, in Japan, 216. Ainos, the, of Korea, 2S1. Ajiawa River, the, Japan, 153, 1:^5. '' Akaji,'' the, of the Japanese navy, 445, 446 ; attacks the Chinese fleet, 452-435 ; badly damaged, 455. Al^ashi, Japan, 22S. " Akitsushima," the. of the Japanese navv. 445. 446 : attacks the '■ Wei Vuen," 440 : tak.c-s the " Tsao Kiang" as prize, 450; attacks the Chinese fleet, 452-45 5, 460. Alaska, iN ; size of, 22\ richness of, Alaska Commercial Companv, the, 14, 17, 19 ; the business of, 28, 29. "Alert," the U. 5. S., 3 ; starts on her cruise, 5 ; description of, 5 ; the ship's compan}', 6 ; at \'ictoria, 8 ; at lliuliuk, 13, 34 ; cruising about Behring Sea, 24-37 ; Unalaska to Kamtchatka, Sibei'ia, 34-37 ; on pas- sage to japan, 46-50 ; at Yokohama, 5T ; at Kribe, Japan. 124 ; a trip to the northvvcstward. 227-2-^6; aground, 22S ; a hre-drill cm\ board, 228 ; '■ man (jvcboard " drill on. 220; on the coast r.f Koi"ea, 2^; ; target-prac- tice of, 23S. 417 ; at Ping-yang, Korea, 259 ; in the Yellow Sea, 293 ; at Shanghai, Cliina, 293 : at Xingpo, China, ^o:, ; rimning before a mon- soon, ^''i I ; ^t .^watow, China, 3^6 ; at Canton, China, 344 ; at Hong- kong, China, -^99 ; at Manila, 41S; at home again, 44G " Aleute Colony,'' the, 21. Aleutes, the, description of, 19; on St. George Island, 29 ; in Japan, f)\. Aleutian Islands, the, 5 ; description of, iS ; the inhabitants, 19 ; popu- lation of, 21 ; the half-breeds, 21 ; size of, 22, 32, 34, 36, ^20. Allied forces, the, occupy Funghai, Cliina, 319. '' Amagi," the, of the Japanese navy, 445- Amaral, De, governor of Macao, 415; assassinated. 4 i \. Americans, the, on St. George Island, 512 Index 29; ill Japan, 51, ''14 ; in the Philip- pine Islands, 437. American-Spanish War, the, 479-507 ; the loss of life in, 490. Amoy, the island of, China, opened to forei:^n trade, yS, forma- tion of, 331 ; settlement and growth of, 332 ; location of, 332 ; the Deified Rocks at, 332 ; Chinese citadel at, 33:;; fortifications of, ;^;^j] the men of, 2,j^~>'-' tl"'e streets of, 333; the cli- mate of, ;^ii2 ; characteristics of the natives of, 334, ;^^-^ ; captured by the British, 336 ; fruits and fauna of, 33^- Ancestral tablets, Chinese, 310; de- scription of, 310, 313. Anderson, Brigadier-General, at I\Ia- nila, 492, 501. Animals, Korean, 2S7. '■ Ann," the British brig, lost on tlie coast of Formosa, 330. Antong, 45S ; held by the Japanese, 460. Antonio, Camoens's slave, 41 3, 414. Arabians, the, in Canton, China, 362, 372; in the Philippine Islands, 42^. Arima, the plains of, Japan, 125, 141. Arita, in Ilizen, 165. 222, 223. Armor, ancient Japanese, 9S. Art, Japanese, 20S-214. Artisans, Chinese, methods of, 302. Asakusa, Japan, S3 ; the Emperor's Palace at, 114. Asan, Korean town of, 443; Chinese troops land at, 443, 449, 450. Ashikaga Shoguns, the, in Japan, 202. Asia, iS, 36. Assan, the volcano, 1 12. Astor battery, the, at Manila, 505. " Atago," the, of the Japanese navy, 44 5 1 44''^- Athletic sports, in China, 3^4. Attaii, 22, 36. Auckland, Mount, Korea, 276, 277. Augustinian Order, the, in the Philip- pines, 474. Auping, Formosa, 330. Austin, Mount, Victoria, 343, 402, 403. Australia, Chinese emigrants in, 3S7. Avatcha, the bay of, 37, 44; dcsciip- tion ol, 44, 4 5, 46. Awata ware, Japanese, 225. Azaleas, in Japan, iii. D "Balboa's Ocean," ti. Balibac, the island of, 471. Baltic Sea, the, 40. Baltimore, city of, 2, 241. " Baltimore,'' the U. S. S., reaches Yokohama, 479; notified to leave Hong-kong, 479 ; in the battle of Cavite, 484 ; fires the first gun of the American-Spanish war, 484; the scene on b(jard, 485, 4S6 ; destroys a Spanish gunboat, 4S7 ; attacks the forts, 4SS ; demands the surrender of the Corregidor forts, 4S9, 495, 40S, 503, 504. Baltimore Manual Training School, the growth of, i ; Mr. Ford's work at, I. Bamboo, in Japan, iii; in China, 390. Bamboo-grove, at Fukiagu, Japan, III. Bandaisan, the grass-covered, 11 t. '* Banjo,'" the, of the Japanese navy, 445, 446. Bankers, Chinese, 365. Banko \\'are, Japanese, 225. Banyan-trees, Formosa, 327, 341. Barber, the Chinese, 310. Barber-shop, the Japanese, 136. " Bare Pagoda," the, at Canton, China, 356,357. " Beacon Hill," 10. " Bear," the, 26. Bear-hunting, 43. iiears, 43. Beaver Bay, 13. Beech, the, in Japan, 110. Behring, the intrepid, shipwreck and death of, 36; at Petropaulski, 38; monument erected to, 39. Behring's Island, 28, 36. Behring's Sea, the, 3, 11, t2, 13, iS ; cruising about, 24-37; 36, 40. "Bell-roads,'' in Korea, 253, 254. r>enovento, F., in conmiand of tlie '■General Lezo," in the battle of Cavite, 491 . '■ Benten,-' the Japanese goddess, temples of, 71. Ind ex 5' Benton Dori, the, at Yokohama, 64, 05. Beriondo, the, 422. Birch, the, in Japan, no. Birds, Korean, 2S7. Bizen ware, Japanese, 225. Blacksmith, the Chinese, ^10. Blanco, General, governor of the Philippines, 475; recalled, 475. Blind Men's Home, the. at Canton, China, y?],. Blockhouse Xo. 14, at Manili, 305. "Bluffs, the," at Yukohaina, 52, 55, "Boca-Tigris," the, at Canton, China. 343j 344, 399- Bogaslov, the changeable island of, ^4, 3S- Bogaslov, the old volcano, history of, 34, ri2. Bonm Islands, the, 112. Bonzes (priests), Japanese, rji. *' Boston," the U. S. S., in the battle of Cavite, 4S4, 488, 491, 49S, 50^, 504. Botanical Garden, the, at Hong-kong, 404. Botanical Gardens, the, at Tokio, 106, T 10. Bricks, Chinese, 234, British, the, victorious over the Rus- sians at Petropaulski, 39 ; in Japan, 51; occupy Funghai, China, 319; capture Amoy, China, 336; capture and occupy Canton, China, 346; Hong-kon ceded to, 400; occupy Macao, China, 416; capture Manila, 432- British Columbia, G. Broughton Bay, Korea, 271, 272; de- scription of, 273. Bronze-Horse Temple, tiie, see 0' Sneva Tcm/le, tlie. Bronzes, Japanese, 154, 217; the manu- facture of, 2jS, Bubbhng-well Road, the, Shanghai, 295. Buddha, the great statue of, 69; de- scription of, 70, 71; in Kobe, 130, i3r; in the O'Sueva Temple, 164; the teachings of, 198, 256, 3S6. Buddhism, introduction into Japan of, 130, 19-, 195; the principles of, 19S, 200; its introduction into China, 395- Buddhist priests, in Korea, 269, 270. Buddiiists, the, in Japan, 199 ; their behefs, 200. Buddhist temples, in Japan, loc;; de- scribed, 106; 199; in Canton, China, Bull cart, Japanese, 179. Bund, the, at Kobe, Japan, 125, 126. Bund, the, at Yokohama, 56, 59, 6"?. Burdock, the, in Japan, in. Burweed, the, in Japan, iii. Basilin, the island of, 471. Butuano king, the, 472. Butuano River, the, Maghallans at, 472. Caballo Islands, the, 498. Cairo, 37. Califurnia, 41; the missions of, 425. Callturnia fruits, mtrciiluced into China, California Heavy Artillery, the, at Ma- nila. 492. " Callao," the Spanish gunboat, cap- tured in the battle of Cavite, 503, 504- Camel caravan, in China, ^91. Camellia, the, in Japan, in. CauKjens, tlie grotto of, at .Macao, 412; tlie '■ Lusiad," 412 ; lits history, 41 ^. Camphor, in Japan, in. Canada. 28, 152; Chinese emigrants in, 387, 389- Candy manufacturer, tiie, in Japan, 89. Canocao Battery, the, at Cavite, 490. Canton, China, 233; opened to foreign trade. ^18; tlie approach to, 34 :;, 344; location of, 344; the scene ntf the city, 345, 346; captured and oc- cu[>ied by the British and Frencli, 346; the old city, 34S; the Tartars in, ^8; the city walls, 34S ; the hniises of, 34S, ^51; the streets of, 351; a wel!-go\'erned city, 35 I ; [lop- uKttion of, 3^1 ; tlie shops of, 351 ; the people of, -^^^t, ; the Guild-hal) at, 334; the Temple of the Five Hun- 3Z ^^^ Index dred Genii at, 354 ; the Temple of Longevity at, 335 ; the Temple of the Five Genii at, 356; the "Bare Pagoda" at, 356, 357; tlie Confu- cian temple at, 356; the "Sleeping Buddha" at, 359 ; the " Temple of Horrors " at, 361 ; the Temple of tiie God of War at, 362; the Mahometan mosque at, 362 ; the examination hall, 362; the mint at, 363; the charities of, 363; the cosmopolitan life of, 363; the pawn-shops, 364; the theatrical school at, 365; opium- smoking in, 366; the execution- ground, 367; the suburbs of, 372; Buddhist temples at, 372 ; the cli- mate of, 372 ; hostility of the people to foreigners, 372 ; its favorable loca- tion, 372; maintains her own army and navy, 375; exports and imports of, 375'399> 41^- Canton (China) boats, the, 367. Cape Colony, 64. Cardosa, L., in command of the ■' Reina Cristina " in the battle of Cavite, 490; killed in battle, 497. Carlos IV., Don, of Spain, 422; his statue at Manila, 422, 424. Caroline Islands, the, 469. Carpenters, Japanese, 135; Chinese, 234- *' Cash." Chinese, 249; value of, 291 JS4. "Castilla," the Spanish vessel, in tiie battle of Ca\ite, 4S6; sunk, 490, 495, 496. Caugue, the, as used in China, 359. Cavite Arsenal, the, 492, 301, Ca\ite, the na\a] battle of, 479-491 ; formation of the American fleet, 4S4; Spanish account of, 492-499. Cavite, Point, batteries of, 4:;S, 47,, 485 ; fires on the American fleet, 4S6, 487, 4S8; captured by the American fleet, 4S9, 490, 493, 494, 495, 497, 500. Cazadores, the First Battahon of, 494. Cebu, the city of, an ripen port, 470. Cebu, the island of, 470; Maghallans at, 472; I.egaspi at, 473: handed over to ecclesiastical authority, 47-!. Celandine, the, in Japan, iir. Central America, Chinese emigrants in, 387. Ceramic art, Japanese, birth of, 230. Chamberlain, Rt. Hon. Joseph, 479. Chan-chan foo, China, 3^6. Chang-chu, the seaport of, China, ;^^t^. Chang-hua, Formosa, 326. Channel Island, 461 ; magazine ex- plodes on, 462. " Chao Kiang," the, of the Chinese navy, 44S. '' Chao \ uen," the, of the Chinese navy, 44S ; attacked by the Japanese fleet, 453-455; rammed by the '' Chi Yuen,'' 454. Charles I., of Spain, 472, " Charleston." the U. S. cruiser, ar- ri\'es at Manila Bay, 491, 500, 503, 504- Chasing, in Japan, 216. Chefoo, China, 227; the ''Alert" at, 230; the French troops in, 231; the later foreign settlement, 251; the wonderful climate of, 231, 235; the houses of, 231 ; the churches and clubs of, 231 ; the older settle- ment of, 231 ; hotels of, 231 ; irriga- tion in, 232; agriculture in, 233; California fruits introduced into, 233; schools, missions, and churches in, 233; shops in, 233- unskilful mechanics in, 234; the harbor of, 235; population of, 235; trade of, 235> 2J7, 449, 451.462, 463- Chekiang, the province of, China, 306. Chelto, Korea, 260; location of, 262: houses of, 262 ; a town of agricul- turists, 262; granary at, 266. Chemulpo, Korea, 237, 2^8, 240; gov- ernment of, 240; settlement of, 240 ; telegraph at, 24 c; climate of, 241; foreign population of, 241; native population of, 241 ; roads aroimd, 242; native dwellings of, 242; im- ports and exports of. 250, 271, 291 ; Japanese troops land at, 444, 455. Chemulpo Club, the, 248. "Chen Chung," the, of the Chinese nav\', 448. "Chen Li," the, of the Cliinese navy, 448. Index 5^5 ''Chen Xaii," the. of the Chinese navy, 44S. '■Chen Tai,'" the, of the Chinese nav\-^ 44S. "Chen rieu," the, of the Chinese navy, 44S. "Chen Tung," the, of the Chinese navy, 44S. " Chen Yuen," the. of tlie Chinese navy, 44S ; attael^ed by the lapanese fleet, 45:,-455; wrecked, 430; taken as a prize by the Japanese, 40V Cherry, the, in Japan, iji. Chesi, tlie, in Ki.irea, 271. Chestnut, the, in Japan, iii. Cheyenne, 2. Chicago, 20. ChickweeJ, the. in japan, iri. '' Chih Yuen.'' the, uf the Chinese navy, 448 ; attacked by the Japanese fleet, 453^453. " Ciiikaramochi," the, in Japan, 2o('). Children, in Tokio, 84 ; Japan a para- dise for, S7. Chili, the district of, 463. China, 3; the Tartars ci:inc|uer, 12:;: 130 ; tlie aerial bridges of, i ^2 ; use of seals in, 214; irrigation in, 2^2 ; agri- culture in, 23^: California fruits in- troduced into, 2-^3; Korea declares itself independent of, 2S2; boys and girls in, 310, 31', ; schools and school- masters in, 313, 314 ; homes in, 314- 318, use of tobacco in, 316; the poor in, 317; opium-smoking in, 317 ; opium war between Great Britain and, 31S; pays Japan indemnity for Formosan murders, 3 v^ ; athletic sports in, -^34; banking in, 363; the tobacco industry in, 36:;; no heredi- tary law of succession in, 376; the government an absolute monarchy, 377; the fundamental laws of, 377; the Interior Council of, ^77; the ad- ministrative boards of, ^^77; " solely under the guidance of Hea\'en," 37S; the attributes of the Emperor. ^78, 379; the literary aristocracy of, 379; nobility in, 379; ranks and titles in, 380; military ranks and grades in, 380 ; divisions in the administration of affairs, 3S0 ; filial piety, the strength of, 3S0; the sacred edict "Shing-gu," 3S1 ; severity of the laws n\\ 3,Si ; the degraded cunJition 61 women in, 3S1 ; charities in, ^,'62; the peculiarity of the people of, 382 ; an undercurrent of distrust in, 3S3; the legal cninai^e of, 3S4; early his- tory of, 3S0, 3,S7 ; papulation of, ^Sy; general appearance uf, ^87 ; emigra- tion from, ^S-/ ; agriculture in, 3SS, }$'i : cereal and vegetable produc- tions of, 3S9 ; agricultural products of, 390 ; tiie manufacturing industry of, 390; immense internal traflic of, 391; railroads of, 393; public rev- enue of, 302 ; foreign residents in, 392 ; principal dependencies of. 392 ; the army of. rehes too much upon her \ast numb-jrs, vn ; the navy of,, 393 ; sml and climate of, 3()4 : water-\vay=. in, 3^,4; min(.-ral resources of, 394; the mental capa- cities of the people of, :^i.)4, "^oi i some notable improvements in, 30; ; multi-millionaires in, ^^96; the possi- bihties of, 396; sends aid to the Ko- reans, 443 ; refuses lapan's demands, 444; attem].Us to drive the Japanese from Korea, 440 : declares war against Japan, 430 ; signs treaty of peace with Japan, 466; terms nt the tre.ity, 46'> ; trade between Manila and, 473, 476. China, tlie Emperor of, see A'/fii>ii^-Sn'. Chin-ai, lourteenth Mikadn ot Japan, 2S7: rebelliitn against, 287 ; death of, 2.S7. China Sea, the, 460- Chinese, the. in japan, 31, 64, 132; hne agriculturists, 2^3 ; invade Kcjrea, 2r,i ; forbearance among. 29$ ; char- ities of, 300; curious customs of, 3T0 ; their homes, 314-318 ; their dress, 316; a well-to-do people, s^r; drive out the Pepo-hohans, 324 ; in Formosa. 323,329; a peculiar peo- p.le. ^82; their regard for the queue, ^St,: ceremonious politeness of, ^St^; a nation of born traders, 3S3; have no division of time, 3S5 ; the religion of. 385; personal characteristics of, 3S5 ; their religious and. political 5.6 Index wars, 3S6 ; patience and industry of, 3S7; their respect for agriculture, 3S8 ; their food, 391 ; opposed to rail- ways, 392; mental capacities of, 394; a progressive people, 395; in the Phihppine Islands. 437; defeated by tlie Japanese at Seikwan, 450; in Manila, 473- Ciiinese army, the, 393 ; composition of, 393 ; badly organized, 393; its make- up in the Japan-China war, 447; at- tempts tu recapture Haichang, 460. Chinese boys, 310, 313 ; sports of, 313 ; education of, 313, 334. Chinese Charity Hospital, the, at Shanghai, 299. Chinese customs service, the, 319. Chinese girls, 310, 313, 334. Chinese homes, description of, ■:;i4-3iS. Chinese houses, described, 314, 315. Chinese language, tlie, 396-39S, 473. Chinese navy, the, improvement in, 393 ; its make-up in the Japan-Chma war, 447, 44S ; engages the [apanese fleet, 452-435 ; surrenders to the Japanese, 463. Chinese New Year, the, 314; descrip- tion of the celebration, 373-375- Chinese torpedo fleet, the, destroyed by the Japanese, 462. Chinese women, fearful condition of, 3^4 ; their stales of hair-dressing, 339, 340 ; tlie mutilation of their feet, 340, 341 ; tlieir dress, 341 ; Chinese customs concerning, 381, " Ching Yuen," the, of the Chinese navy, 44S ; attacked by the Japanese, 453-455 ; sunk by the Japanese, 463. Chinhai, Chinese city of, ^06 ; a port of entry, 319. " Chisakantana " (sword), the, 215. Chiukiu-bori decoration, the, in Japan, 213. " Chiyoda," the. of the Japanese na\'y, description of, 1 IS9 ; 445, 446 ; attacks the Chinese f^eet, 452-455. "Chi Yuen," the, of the Chinese navy, 448; attacked by the fajtanese, 45"^- 455; rams the "Chao Yuen," 454. ''Chokai," the, of the Japanc-se navy, 445' 44^J- '' Chori," the, in Japan, 203. " Choson," see Korea. " Choson," the, of the Korean navy, 2S4. Christianity, the extinction in Japan of, lOo; re\'i\ed in Japan, 192; its progress in Japan, 195 ; 200. Christian martyrs, the, in Japan, 160, Chrysanthemums, 80, in; the Im- perial, at Tokio, 114-123. Chu-kiang Kiver, the, China, 412. Ch'un, Prince, of China, 376. Chung, Queen, the temple and tomb of, in Seoul, 256. Church of Santo Domingo, the, at iManila, 425. Church of tlie Sacred Heart, the, at ;\Ianila, 425. Chusan, the i^land of, China, 319. Chusan group of islands, the, China, 306. Cigar manufacture, in Manila, 426, 43S. Cingalese, the, at Hongkong, 402, 403, " City of Tokio," the steamer, 409. Civic Guard, the, at Manila, 506. Clerke, monument to, 39. Cliff Rock, 440. Clog-maker, a Japanese, 142. Cloisonne ware, French, 219; manu- factiu-e of, 219. Club German ia, the, at Hong-kong, 404. Coal mines, in Japan, 17S. Cobbler, the Chinese, ^10. Cochin-China, Chinese emigrants in, 3S7. Coe, Isaac, 405. Coghlan, J. B., in command of the " Raleigh '^ in the battle of Cavite, 491. Commander Islands, the, 2S. " Concepcion," Maghallans' ship, 472. " Concord," the U. S. S., in the battle of Cavite, 4S4, 4SS ; destroys the " Isla de Mindanao," 4S9, 491, 504. Confucianism, 195, Confucian temple, the, at Canton, China, 356 ; description of, 356. Confucius, the works of, 269, 2S3, 313, 314,377, 37S, 379, 3S6, 3SS. Consulates, the, at Yokohama, 60. Cook, Captain, 13, 39. Index 5^7 Coolies, Japanese, 50, So, Sy, 207 ; Chinese, 232. 3S3, 402, 406, 4^0; Korean, 249 ; description of, 24Q. Cooper, the Japanese, 151. Copper Island, 2S, 36. Corea, see Korea. Corregidor, the ("iibraltar of the Philip- pines, 4S5 ; tlie batteries ot, fire upnn the American fleet, 4S5 : the iorts surrender to the Anierican tieet, 4S0, 490; 49S. '' Corwin," the, 26. Cosmopolitan Dock, the, at Kowloon, 40S. Cossacks, 41, 43. 173. Cotton, In Japan, iti : in Kurea, 2S5. Council Bluffs, 2. Court, a Chinese, 360, -^soi. Crematory, a Japanese, 17S-1S0. Crimean War, tlie, ^9. Criminals, Chinese, 339. Crow, the, in Japan, iii. Cycods, the, in Japan, iii. D Dagl"pax, 430, "Dai Butsu,"' 6;, 69; description of the great statue of, 70, 71. *' Dai Koku," the temple of, y^. Damascening, in Japan, 216. Damio road, the old. 60. Damios, the, feudal lords in Japan, 1S5, 1S7 ; the fall of, 1S7. Dancing-girls, Japanese. 131. Dandelion, the, in Japan, iii. Dauzaemon, power of, 207, 20S. Davilla, Basalio Agustin, governor-gen- eral of the Philippines, extraordinary proclamation of, 4S0-4S4 ; escapes to Hong-kong, 506. Deception Bay, Korea, 275, 276. Deep Bay, China, 400. Deer, in Unalaska, 16. Deer Island, Kurea, 274. '• Deified Rocks," the. at Amoy, China, Deshema, the fan-shaped island of, Japan, 163 ; the Dutch prison-houses on, 163, 165, 173. Despujolo, General, governor of the Philippines, 475 ; recalled, 475. Dewey, Admiral George, 477 ; instruc- tions from Secrctai'v Long tri, 4M. 401 ; his note to Jaudenes, 502; his reply, 503 ; demands the surrender of the Philippines, 505. Divers, 44. Dock, the, in Jajian, iii. Doctor, the Japanese, 144, 2\G. Dodd's Range, Pormosa, 320. Oogs, 37 ; at Kamtchatka, 43, 45. ''Don Antonio de Ulloa,"' the Span- ish vessel in the battle of Cav ite, -\'S'.< ; sunk, 490. Dominican Order, the, in the Philip- pines, 47-4. ''Don Juan de Austria,"' the Spanish cruiser, in the battle of Cavite, 4S6 ; burned, 490, 495. Dougherty, Father, at Manila, 506. •■ Douglas," the S. S., 40S. Douin, 216. Ducks, in Unalaska, 16, 44. Dutch, the, 131 ; allowed to trade wi'h Japan, i6-^ ; imprisoned in Japan, 16:;; beloved by the Pepo-hohans, 324 ; discover Formosa, 329 ; build the fort " Zelandia," 329; driven off bv ihe Tartars, ^29 ; in Canton, China, i7'^ ; intrigue against the Jesuits, 426; jealous of the J-'hilip- pines, 4':;2. Dutclnnan's Bay, i ^ . Dyer, X. M., in cumniandof the " Bal- niore " in tlie battle of Ca\'ite, 491. E EAE.GET, the, in Japan, iii. Earthc|uakes, Japan a land of, in, 112 ; in Manila, 424, ^t,^. Eastern Archipelagr), the, Chinese emi- grants in, 3S7. Eastern Sea, the, 156, 320. Eastern Siberia, the pro\'ince of, 44, 320. East India Companv, the, 343, 373. East Indies, the, 4n, 43S. Eastport, Maine, 22. Ecclesiastical department, the, in Japan, I So. Educati(Ui. in CJiina, 395. " Egg Island," 13. Eichizen, 2S7. 5i8 Index " Eight Banners,'' troops of the, Chinn, 393- "El CoiTeo," the Spanish gunboat, in the battle of Cavite, 4S7 ; burned, 490. El Fraile Rock, the batteries of, fire upon the American fleet, 4S5 ; 490, 498. Elm, the, in Japan, no. Empress Dowager, the, of China, 3;('>, 377- English, the, in Japan, 64. I-:nglish Club, the, at Manila, 431. Enoshema, Japan, 69, 70. 71. Escalto, the, ^22. Escudera, F., in command r.f the "El Correo " in the battle nt Ca\'ite, 400. Estanga, J. M., in command of thu "Villa J,obas " m the battle ut Ca\'ite, jfiji . " Eta," the, m Japan, 205, 20S. Europeans, at Hong-kung, 402 ; in the Philippine Islands, 437. Execution, a Chinese, 3i'i7, Executive Council, the, in Japan, 1S6; its nine dejiartments, tSo. Faienxe, Japanese, enamel, .';2i, 224. "Fan-tan,'' the Chmese game of, 360. " Farallon," the, 26. Farmer, the Chinese, 38S, 389. Feast of Lanterns, the, in Japan, if-io; described. 169; in China, 38;. Fenghuanchung, Cieneral Tatsumi enters, 4^8. Feng-shang, I'ormosa, 32^. Feng-tien, ceded to Japan, but re- turned to China, 466. Fenhugangen, 45S, Feudalism, in Japan, wiped out by the Emperor, 12^. Filigree-work, Chinese, ';f')5. Finch, the, in Japan, 111. Fiiemen, Japanese, 703. "Fire Mountain," see Ho-san. First California Infantry, the, at Manila. 402. Fish. 44; in Ja]ian, 166; in China, 2^;, 306; in Krirca, 28 7; in Formosa, 329. Fisher Ibland, 465. Five Genii, the Temple of, at Canton, China, 356. Five Hundred Genii, the Temple of, at Canton, China, 354. Flat Mount, 46. Flattery, Cape, 7. " F'lower-boats,'' in China, 31S. Flowers, wild, in Unalaska, 16, 21; 28. Fo-kien, the province of China, -^^-i^y Fo-kien, the Strait of, 320. Fong-nai-fu, Korea, 275. Ford, John D., work at the Baltimore Manual Training School, i ; ordered to San Francisco, \ ; doing pioneer work, I ; farewell dinner tendered to, 2 ; at the Mare Island Navy Yard, 3; joins the U. S. S. "Alert," 3; starts on his cruise, 5 ; the sliiji's compauN', 6; arrives at \'ictoria, 8- 11; at sea, 11; arrn'es at Iliuliuk, I";. ^4; among the Aleutian Islands, 1^-22; a burial at sea, 22, 2-:; ; cruising in Behring Sea. 24-37; after illegal sealers, 24; at the Fribyloff Islands, 2% ; a humoi'ous incident, 3:; ; Unalaska to Kamtcliatka, Si- beria, '^4-37; crossing the meridian, 3:; ; a tradition, 35 ; at Petropaulski, 36; nn passage to Japan. 46-50 ; at "V'okohama, 51-75 ; at Tokio, 76-123 ; a visit to the mortuary temples of the Shoguns at Sheba, 94-105 ; a visit t(} the imperial chrysanthemums, 114-72:;; at Kol^e, Japan, 124-152, at Osaka, i5:;-i5o; at Nagasaki, 150-181; at Moji, 181-184; bound for Chefoo, 227 ; at Chefoo, 231-235 ; a trip to Korea, 237-250 ; a visit to the Korean Govei'nor, 244 ; in Chelto, Korea, 262; at Shanghai, China, 20 1 ; at Ningpo, China, 306; at Amoy, China, 331 ; at Swatow, China, 3^6 ; at^Canton, China, 344 ; a family of lepirs. 546 ; at Hong- kong, China, 300; at Macao, China, 471 ; at Manila, 41S ; at home again, 440 ; on board the U. S. S. " Baltimore," 479. Foo-Chow, China opened to foreign ti"ade. 318 ; 303. Foreman, on the prjwer of the Friars in the Philippines, 475. Ind ex 5^9 Formosa, the island of, 112, -:;2o; loca- tion ut, 320 ; mountains ot. :;2o ; its natural di\"isions, ^20; its, f 01 illa- tion, 320 ; encliantin'^- scL-nery un, '\2^] origin ot" its name, ';2;; \'e,L;e- tation and climate of, j,2y, tlie tiiiee classes of inhabitants nf, :;2:; ; the abori^Mues of, 32 j; ; the Chinese portion ui. 326 ; important towns of, 326; population uf, ^20: the wi.nk of the elements in, 1,26 ; exports and imports ol. ;2g: the fauna of, 32'ti; its coal fields, ^20; early history of, 329 ; dangerous coast of, ;'-,}o ; early ferocity of its people, 330; development of the resources of, 3-;o ; ceded to Japan. 466, 467. Foundhng Hospital, the, at Canton, China, 363. Fourteenth Regular Infantry, at !\Ianila, 491 . Foxes, in Unalaska, 16 ; in Kam- tchatka. 43. France, reciuests japan not to occupy Port Arthur, 466. Franciscan Order, the, in the Pliilip- pines, 474. French, the, victorious over the Rus- sians at Petropaulski. 39; capture and occupy Canton, China, 346. French concession, the, at Shangliai, 2Q:;, 296. Friars, the, in the Plulip>pines, 474; the actual rulers of the Philippines, 474 ; the struggle between the governors and, 473. Fruit-packing, at Honan, Canton, 371. Fruits, Korean, 2S5. Fu, the Japanese, 1S6. Fuensen. Korea, 291. Fiihkin, China. 307. Fujisai), see Fujiyama. Fujiyama, 31, y-,. S4. Fukiagu, Japan, bambori-grove at, tiS. Funerals, Japanese, 171, 172; Chinese, Fungchow, China, 392. Fung-fai, the, Formosa. 329. Funghai, Chinese city of, 306, 319; occupied l^y the British, 319 ; occu- pied by the allied forces, 319. Fur-trade, the, S. Fu-san, ICmi. a, 271; descri])tion of, 274; roval storehouses at, 274; [.ijiancsu SI. tllement at, 274 ; police ot, 274; pupulailon of, 274; harbor ol. 275; climate of, 275; trade iif, 275; 2\)\ ; Japanese troops at, 444, 452. '' Fuso,'' the. of the Japanese navy, desciiption ot, 1S9; 4^5, 44'^); attacks the Cliinese fleet, 4^2-4^5. Fwo-tre-tia, the town of, Formosa. 326. Gamurinus, 75. '' Gaunin," the, in fapan, 206. Cieese, in i'nalaska, to. " Geisha," the, i "^i. '•'■ Geneial Alova." the Spanish boat, captured in the battle of Cavite, 491. " Cieneral Lezo,'' the Spanish gunboat, in the battle of Cavite, 4S7 ; burned, 491. Gen-san, Korea, 271 ; description of, 271 ; }-i(i|Hilatioii of, 271 ; liouses of, 271; market at, 272; ihe Japanese in, 27^,; the Chinese Consulate in, 273; the foreign settlement at. 273; ])roduce of, 273; exports and imports of, 27-^ ; Japanese troops at, 444, 4^1, \-y. Germans, the, in Japan, 51, 64. German} , ioi . ("icrmany, the F.mperor of, requests Japan not to occupy Port Arthur, 4^.0. " Gibraltar of Japan," the, see Shnno- noseki^ the Siraiis of. Gifu, the prefecture of, in Japan, 112, 1 1 ;. riiiisriig, in Korea, aSi.i. Ginbu-Xashiji decuiation, the, in Japan, 21 2. r;lass ware. Chinese, y-^'-^- ■■ Gl..-nartncy;" the S, S,, 40S. (ioa. 4C;, 4'4- '■Gog and IMagog," in the O'Sueva Temple, 164. Golden Gate, the, 5. Golden rod, the, in Japan, tii. GorobachI, 223. 520 Index Goroliichij 223. Goto tamily, the, famous Japanese metal-workers, 216. Grand Hotel, the, at Yukohama, 56, 59. Grand IsKind, 2. Granger, 2. Great Britain, 192; opium war be- tween China and, 31S, 43^; issues a Proclamation of NeutraHty, 479, 480. " Great Buddha," the, see Dai Biilsii. Green, Brigadier-General, in the attack on Fort Malate, 504. Green-ginger indiistr}', the, at llonan, Canton, ^71. Green-grocer's shop, Japanese, 05. Green River, 2. Gridley, C. \'., In command of the '• Olvmpia " in the battle of Cavitc, 491. Guerra, S. M., in command of the " Marciues del Duero," in the battle of Cavite, 491. Guild-hall, the, at Canton, China, 354. Guri-lac decoration, the, in Japan, 213. H Eiglit-bannered Hachimiu, the Buddha, 2SS. Hachiman, the Japanese war-god, -jo. Hachiman, the temple of, at Eno- shema, Japan, 69, 70 ; at Ilyogo- Kobe, 134. " Hachitataki," the, in Japan, 206. Haichang, 45S ; captured and occupied by the Japanese, 459 ; 460 ; the Chi- nese attempt to recapture, 460 ; 463, 464. Hair-drer.ser, the Japanese, 14S. Hakodate, Japan, 192. Haku Butsu (great bazaar), the, at Osaka, Japan, 156. Half-breeds, the, in the Aleutian Islands, 21 ; on St. George Island, 29; at Kamtchatka, 4"^ : 173. Halsey, James, A., 405. " Hanashika," the, in Japan, 206. Han-ko, Princess, marries the Emperor of Japan, 185. Hankow, China, 392. Han-lin (" Great College") China, 377. Han River, the, 239, 251, 252, 279,336. Han-Van, see Sroiii. Happy Valley, the llong-kong, Parsee cemetery in, 40^, 405, 406. Har-Chwang-Sze, the, at Honan, Can- ton, 369, ^~,-ji ; description of, 371. '■ >lai-ikari," the (i^uicide), in Japan, 139, 150, 215. " Hataba,'' the, at Yokohama, 59. Hawaii, 469. " Hea\'enly Barrier,'' the, see Woo- Sll/lg. Ileisoshima, 435. Henshiu, Japan, 190. '^ Hercules," the Spanish boat, cap- tured in the battle of Cavite, 491. '• Hermit nation," tliu, see Korea. Herring, 17, 44. " Hetsui" (day liunace), the Japanese, Heung-kiang River, tlie, China, 412. Hiang-shang, the island of, China, 412. Hido-Vashi, 155. Hien Fung, see Whig Tsting Hien^ £}/iperor. Hien-fung, the Koi'can mountain. 279. Higashi Hongwanji, the temple of, 201 . Higo wai'e, Jajjanese, 225. Hillside graves of the martyrs, the, Japan, 161, 183. Hindoos, at Hong-kong, 402. " Hinin," the, in Japan, 205, 20S. Hirado, Japan, 165. Hirado, tlie Prince of, 223. Hirado kiln, the, in Japan, 223. Hira-maki\'e decoration, the, in Japan, 212. Hiroshima, Japan, a military district, tS8. " Hiyei," the, of the Japanese navy, description of, 189 ; 445,446; attacks the Chinese fleet, 452-455 ; badly damaged, 454. Hizen, Japan, 165, 222, 2S7. HIzen ware, Japanese, 222. " Hochidate," the, of the Japanese na\'y, 445, 446 ; attacks the Chinese fleet, 452-455 ; becomes the flagship, 455- Hokusai, a Japanese lacquer-worker, 214. Holland, 163. Ind ex !) 21 Honan, China, 344, ^;q ; locatii.in cf. 307; industries at, y>- \ tea liongs at, 367; the '"temple of the Ocean Banners'' at, 371 ; niattiiig factories at, 371 ; the green-ginger and fruit- packing estabHshments at, 371 ; the public flower-garden, ^71. Hong-kong, China, 3 ; the harbor of, "^ '^ ; Chinese emigrants in, :;87; the •• Alert ■' at, 399; formation of. 400 ; location of^400 ; ceded to the British, 400; government of, 402; the Praya Road at, 402 ; the Queen's Road at, 402; the Happy Valley at, 406; cem- eteries at, 406 ; causes of its impor- tance, 409 ; scenery at, 40Q ; not a healthy climate, 410; population of, 410; 479. Hong-kong Roads, 400, 407. Honolulu, 479. " Hoocheno," iS. Hope Dock, Aberdeen, 407. Horse, the sacred white, at Hyogo- Kobe, Japan, 134, 13:;. Ho-san, the volcano, Formosa, 320. Hospital of the Imperial University, the, 114. Hospital of the Misericordi, the, at Macao. 412. " Hotel junks," in China, 31S. Household gods, Chinese, 315, 316, Howeie, the town of, Formosa, 326. How Qua, the richest man in the world, 396. Hudson Bay Compan\", the, S. Human, J. L., in command of the " Isla de Luzon " in the battle of Cavite, 490. Hu-mun River, the, China, 343, 344, 359i 3'J7- Hundred and one steps, the, at Yoko- hama, ^2, ^6. Hwang Island, 456. Hydrangeas, in Japan, in. Hyogo-Kobe, Japan. 125; description of, 126; shipbuilding at, 134; 132; harbor of, 227 ; 28S. I Idzuminada, the, Japan, 125. Ikegawa, Japan, 75. lliuliuk, UnaLiska. the '' Alert " at, 13, 34 ; dcsciiption of, 14. Ilo Ho, the city of, an open port, 470. " Ilo Ilo," the Spanish boat, captured in the battle of Cavite, 49[. Imari, [apan, 1(13, 22:,. ' Immortalitie,'' the British flagship, at Manila, 504, 506. '■ Imonshi,"' the. in Japan, 206. Imperial (.luard, the |apanese, xSS ; at Kulung, 4'.)0. Imperial t^mljs, the, Japan, 201, 202, 20 :;. Imperial University, the, at Fokio, 106, 200. ■■ Imperieuse," II. M. S., 408. India, 5 1, yt^, 402, Inchans, the, 7, 8, 19; in Japan, 64. Indian villages, 7. Indio, Fra Jos^, on Camoens, 414. Inku cross-road, the, 45S; held by the Chinese, 460 ; captured by the Japa- nese, 4i"i4. Inland Sea of }apan, the, 124, 125, 127, i^r-i, 227 ; the " \\"yriming '' in, 229. Inlaying, in Japan, 216. '' Iim mawashi," the, in Japan, 206. Inou}'e, Lieutenant, 465. " Inin," the, in Japan, 214, Interior Council, tlie, of China, ^77 ; composition of, 377; powers of, 377. Interior Department, the, in Japan, 1S6, 1S7. *' Iphigenia," the British vessel, at Ma- nila, 504, 506. Iron ore, in China, 394. Iron-works. Japanese, 154. " Isla de Cuba," the Spanish cruiser, in the battle of Cavite, 4S6; sunk, 490. "Isla de Luzon," the Spanish cruiser, in the battle of Cavite, 4S6 ; sunk, 490. " Isla de Mindanao." the Spanish gun- boat, in the battle of Cavite, 4S6; destroyed by the "Concord," 4S9; burned, 401 ; -49S, 496- Ise, the temple of, at Vamato, Japan, 197. Isszakicho, the, at Yokohama, 66. Isuruga, Eichizen, 2S7. Itchije, Prince, 1S5. Ito, Admiral, in the Japan-China war, 522 Index 452; engages the Chinese fleet, 453, 455 ; sails for Wei-Hai-Wei, ^^(>, 459 ; tlie Chinese surrender to, 463 ; sails against Furniosa, ^h^. " Itsukushima/' the, of the Japanese navy, description of, iSS, 189; 445, 446; attacks the Chinese fleet, 452- 455- lube ware, Japanese, 325. Ivory-carvers, in Japan, 210 ; in China, Jadestones,352. Japan, 3, 34, 46, 4S, 64 ; ship-building in, 72 ; harvesting rice in, yi, ; a paradise for the aged and the chil- dren, 87 ; juvenile acrobats in, 88 ; the ••wandering" candy manufac- turer in, 89 ; jugglers in, 90 ; the massage doctor, 93; troubadours in, 9:;; the official religion of, 105, 186; wondei'fiil growth in educational lines, 106; the people of, 10;; wrest- ling in, 107-110; the flora of, no, III ; a land ot earthquakes, in ; birds of, in ; the great reforms ac- complished by the Mikado in, 122, 123; introduction of Buddhism into, 130; railroad in, 132, 192; no sad- ness to be seen m, 139 ; irrigation in, 140; girls and women in, 147; the extinction of Christianity in, 1 60 ; until recently an absolute monarchy, 183 ; the ancient law uf succession in, 1S5 ; women rulers of, 1S6; re- ligious toleration in, 1S6; the new constitution proclaimed, iSf^ : ad- ministrative division of the Empire, 186 ; restoration of the nobility. 187 ; the revenue of, 1S7 ; the military dis- tricts of, tSS; area of, 190; j^opula- tion of, 190 ; geographical division of, 190; her ports opened to foreign trade and residence, iqo : value of her exports, 100 : new treaties of, 191 ; value of her imports, 191; her shipjiing, 191 ; the telegraph and cable in, 192; the postal service in, IQ2; religions of, 192; date of its history, 192; Shintoism in, 192-108; Buddhism in, 198-201 ; class distinc- tions in, 201 ; art in, 208-214; use of seals in, 214; exacts indemnity from China for Formosan murders, 330; the Chinese in, 3S7 ; almost con- verted to Christianity by the Jesuits, 426; wages war against the Jesuits, 42('); sends troops to Korea, 443 ; prepares for war, 444 ; her demands refused by China, 444; composition of her navy, 444; piotccts the King of Korea, 449; declares war against Chma, 450; a na\al \ictory, 4:;o ; signs treats' of peace with China, 466; terms of the treaty, 466. Japan, the Emperor of, see Ahtisii- hiio. Japan, the Empress of, see Han-ko^ Princess. Japan, the Sea of, 27S. Japan-China War. the, 443-46S ; the treaty of peace, 466; losses of life in, 467. Japanese, the, as ser\'ants, G; 51; their lo\e of the beautiful, So ; their pa- tience in hoi ticulture, 80; their re- spect for old age and lo\e for children, 87 ; behind in the use of common to}'s, S8 ; characteristics of, 107, 114; native homes of, 141-146; their love of bathing, 146; their con- siderations for marriage, 149 ; civili- zation of, 192; their abhorrence of begging, 206 ; not fond of class dis- tinction, 20S ; their artistic tempera- ment, 20S ; lead the world in bronzes, 217; their flght with the "Wyo- ming," 229; pay a hea\y indenmity, 22g ; finest agriculturists in the wnilil, 2-\-i,\ tlieir peaceful landing in Korea, 239,240; in Korea, 241, 240, 27 V. the respect of the Koreans for, 270 ; their first Jn\'asion of Korea, 287 ; at Ili.mg-kong, 402 ; antago- nism in I-vorea to, 443. Japanese army, the, organization of. 188 ; 447 ; composition of, 447 ; cap- tures Ping-yang, 452; occupies Pit- sewo, 455; captures Kinchan, 455; captures Port Arthur, 457 ; captures Kiuliencheng, 458 ; captures Feng- huanchung, 458 ; captures Haichang, 450 ; attacks Wei-Hai-Wei, 461 ; Ind ex 5 -J occupies W'ei-Hai-W'ei, 4(12; c:iptures Tapingshani, 403 ; captures Inku, 464 ; captures 'I'ienslnvani^tai, 404 ; captures Makuiig, 46:;. Japanese boys, 134. Japanese girls, 147; the^'outli of, 14;; by instinct modest and polite, 14;; education uf, 147 ; the dress of, 14S ; their amusements. 14S ; their mar- riages. I4g ; tiieir weddings, i y:\ 131 ; tiieir obedience to their hus- bands, 1 5 1 - Japanese hut, the ancient. 94. Japanese Islands, the, ;},2o. Japanese Naval Arsenal, the, 71. Japanese navy, the, iSS, iSq ; compo- sition of, 444, 445 ; defeats the Chinese fleet, 449, 450 ; at Ping- yang Inlet, 452 ; engages tlie Chinese fleet, 452-455 ; at Talienwan Bay, 456 ; threatens Wei-Hai-W'ei. 460 ; attacks Wei-Hai-Wei, 401 ; at Pachan Island, 465; in full control of the seas, 466. Japanese Straits, the, 274. Japanese torpedo boats, 462. Jaudenes, General Fermin. at Manila, ;o2; note from the American com- manders to, 502 ; his reply, 503. Java, Chinese emigrants in, 387. Javanese, the, at Hong-kong, 402. Jay, the. in Japan. 1 1 1. JeLichuan, Korean town of, 2;9 ; its growth, 239; consulates at, 239; the rice-cleaning steam mill at, 239 ; temple at, 239; tea-houses in, 240; hotels in, 240; location of, 240. Jesuits, the, make trouble in Korea, 271 ; in ^lacao, 414 ; almost convert Japan to Christianity, 426 ; war waged by the Japanese against, 426; in the Philippine Islands, 432, 435. Jeweller's Guild, the, at Shanghai, ^00. Jews, at Hong-kong, 402. Jingu, mother of Hachiman, 70. Jinrikisha, the, in Japan, 59, 69, 76 ; in Victoriaj 406. Jinrikisha men, 59; description of, 60; 1 1,2. " Jintochi " (sword), the, in Japan, 216. Jito, Emperor of Japan, 201, 202, 203. Jodo Buddhists, the, in Japan, 199. Jnss-sticks, Chinese, 29S. Juan de Fuca, the Strait uf, 7, S. Jugglers, Japanese, 90. Juisen, see /c'!n'/i2ia7i. Jungu Koge, leads the Japanese army, 2^y ; invades Korea, 287 ; temples dedicated to, 28S. Jungu temple, the, Korea, 2SS. Junks, Japanese, 72; Chinese, 293. Junsen, see "Jt-iichnan. K K.\-FRi-ANG, the village of, Formosa, 325 ; iiuuses of, 325. " Kaga," the, in Japan, ) ^",. " Kain'io," tlie, of the Japamrse na\'\', 445- Kaiping, General Nogi enters, 460 ; 4'J3- Kaiping Coal Company, the, 392. '' Kaiserin Augusta," the German flag- ship, at Manila, 506, " Kakem^ino '" (silk scroll), the, Japan- ese, [43. Kakiyemon, a tamous Japanese porce- lain worker, 222, 22:;, 225. Kala}'ama, Admiral. 41.7. Kamada, Japan, 75. Kamakma, Japan, 67. Kamakura Slio;4uns, the, in Japan, 202, 20S. Kameyarna kihi, the, in Japan, 223. " Kami-no-michi," 195. " Kamlika," 17. Kanitchadales, 4^, 45. Kanitchatka, Siberia, ^4 ; the govern- ment of. 41 ; dogs at. 43, 45 ; trade at, 43; description of, 44; aboriginal tribes of, 45; population of, 45 ; sit- uation of, 45. Kamtchatka River, the, 44, Kanagawa, Japan, 75. Kaneiye, the creator of artistic swords, 216.' '' Kang," the, in Korea, 242, 2S3, 284, 291. " Kang Chi," the, of tlie Chinese na\'y, 44S ; taken as a prize by the Japan- ese, 46^. Kano school of pottery, the, 221. " Kantana" (sword), the, in Japan, 2/5, 5^4 Index Karabukmo-no-Sukune, rebels ag:iinst the Emperor of Japan, 201. Katase, the beach of, ;i. Katsuma, General, in the Japan-China war, 464. Katsura, General, in the Japan-China war, 45S. "Katsuragi," the, of the Japanese navy, 445, 446. " Kawara-mono," the, in Japan, 200. Kawasaki, Japan, 73. Kelung, the town of, Formosa, 326, 329; the Japanese in, 466, 467. Ken, the Japanese, 1S6. " Kenin," the, in Japan, 202. Kensliaw (governor), tiie Japanese, 17^. Ken Bay, 4^6. Kenzan, a tamous Japanese porcelain- worker, 222, 225, 226. Ki-ai, Formosa, 326. " Kiaks" (canoes), 17. " Kilung," see Formosa^ the island of. Kimono, the, in Japan, 79, 132, 148, 150. Kinai, 216. Kinchau, captured by the Japanese, 455' 456 ? 4^'^' 46^- King, Cape, 4S. Kingtung, Chinese town of, 319, "King Yuen," the, of the Chinese navy, 44S ; attacked by the Japanese fleet, 433-455. Kinshin, 112. Kirko-Zan, a famous Japanese porce- lain-worker, 225. Kisbi, a Chinese warrior, 2S1; story of, 2S1. Kitaze, see Kisbi. " Kitsune-tsukai," the, in Japan, 206. Kiuezan ware, Japanese, 225. Kiuliencheng, 45S ; captur^'d by tlie Japanese, 458. Kiushiu, the island of, Japan, 139, 190, 287. Kiyowezer, Japan, 224. Kobe, Japan, the "Alert'' at, 124; description of, 125 ; the " Falls " at, 125 ; the foreign settlement at, 123; the government of, 123; the Bund at, 123; 126, 127; the Imperial arsenal at, 134 ; trade at, i ^,q ; native homes at, 141 -146; churches in, 132; population of, 152; foreign residents of, 152; newspapers in, 132; the harbor of, 152 ; imports and exports of, 152, 192. Koga, Japan, 224, " Kogai " (dagger), the, in Japan, 213. " Kogo nuke," the, in Japan, 206. Ko-kaido Railway, the, in Japan, 133. " Kokatanka " (dagger), the, in Japan, 21 :;. Kokun Islands, the, 431. Komei leiine, Emperor, 1S5. " Komihi," the, in Japan, 202. "Konang-fu," the, in China, 3S0. "Kongo," the, of the Japanese navy, description of, 1S9; 44^, 446. Korausha (bazaar), the, at Nagasaki, Japan, i 64. Korea, 3, 134, 192; use of seals in, 214; invaded by the Prince of Sat- suma, 220; 230, 239; the peaceful landing of the Japanese in, 240 ; mourning customs in, 246-24S; cur- rency of, 249; mail-service of, 249; the Royal troops of, 233; desolate approaches to, 260; the people of, 26S; education in, 26S ; Buddhist priests in, 269; the religion of, 269 ; the government of, 271, 2S2 ; de- scription of the country, 27S ; rivers of, 279 ; climate of, 27Q ; scarcity of fuel in, 2S0 ; subdivision of, 2S1 ; Roman Catholic jiiriests in, 2S1 ; cereals and vegetables in, 2S3 ; ac- count of tlie first Japanese invasion of, 2S7 ; later invasions of, 291; the " Hermit nation," 291 ; treaty be- tween the United States and, 291 ; imports and exports of, 292 ; popula- tion of, 292 ; the Chinese in, 3S7 ; opposition to the Japanese in, 443; rebellion in, 443 ; calls on Ciiina for help, 443 ; 451; surrendered to Japan, 466. Korea, the King of, sec Li-Fin. Korean Channel, the, 27S, 2S0. Korean ladies, the, 264. Koreans, the, 70 ; life of, 243 ; charac- teristics of, 243; personal appear- ance of, 262, 263, 281; their dress, 263, 264; 2S5 ; the dress of the nobility, 265 ; live close to nature, 26S ; liave no doniestic life, 20q; their respect tor llic lapancbe, 270; the Jesuits give trouble to. 271; sutler from lack of fuel, 2^'-o \ tlieir clothing-, 2S0 ; a brave people, 2S1 ; able military engineers, 2N2 ; tluir opposition to foreigners, 28^,; their language, 283 ; their houses, 2N3 ; their veneration for age, 284 ; their customs in hair-dressing, 2S4; home- less wanderers, 291 ; their povert\ , 292; at Hong-kong, 402. Korean troops, the, 255, 250. Koria, see Korea. Korianski, Muunt, 411, Korlangsoo, tlie i-^land uf, Amov, China, 331 ; iDrcign rebii.lences at, 333 ; formation of, Vi5 ; the " Lanv putoh Temple" at, Vi'-'. Kouricks, the, 45. Kowloon, China, ^43 ; de^crljition nf, 407 ; dry-docks at, 407-409. " Kowshing," the Chinese transport, 44g; sunk by the " Naniwa," 450. '■' Kuang Kia,"' the, of the Ciiinese navy. 44S ; attacked by the Japanese- fleet, 4:;';-455 > '"^^ 4vt- "Kuang Ping," the, of tiie Clli^e^e navy, 44S ; attacked by tlie Japanese fleet, 45:;-453; taken as a prize by the Japanese, 463. Kuang-Sii. Emperor of China, 37'.) ; proclamation of his accession, 376; his marriage, 377 ; the spiritual as well as the temporal head of his people. 377; absolute in power, 37S; attributes of, 378; encourages agri- culture, 3SS. " Kuang \'i," the, of the Chinese navy, 44S ; attacked and wrecked by the " Naniwa," 449. Kuhlan, sea-fight off, 405. Kuiu, the Chinese in force at, 4(16. Kuing-Kei, the province of, Korea, 239, 252. Kujormori, the Japanese hero, morui- ■ ment to, 131. Kumamoto, Japan, 17S; a military district, tSS. Kural Islands, the, 122, 320. " Kurisowo," the, 36. Kurnma Zeushichi, power of, 207. Index c ^ - Kusum^ki Masashegi, the temple at Kobe, dedicated to, i :;2, Kiitana, in Koga, 224. KLitaua ware, Japanese, 224. Kuwabara, the celebrated decorator, Kwang-tung, the province of, China, 33'-^ 345- Kwaiiin, tlie Japanese goddess of the sea, S3, S4. Kwanln, thetemiile of, 8:;, 84, 85. " Kwankn," the, in Japan, 202. Kwayeus, 455. K\oto, Japan, 133, 1S5, 201, 222, 224, La Concha, J. de, in command of the '' Don |uan de Austria " in the battle of Cavite, 490. Lacquer ware, Clhnese, i;5 ; com- pared with the Japanese, :;35. Lacc]uer ware, Ja).ianese, 21 "; ; com- pared witli the Chinese, "^^5. Laccjuer-woiki.Ts, in Japan, 21^, Ladr(.me IslaiK.ls, the 11 2. 400 ; Ma- gliahans at, 472. Laiyang Road, the, 464. '' Lai Yuen," the, of the Chinese navy, 44S ; attacked by the Japanese fleet, 43-^-453 ; sunk by the |apanese, -162. La I,una promena'.le, the, at Manila, 4-S. Lamma, tlie island (if, 410. Lament Dock, ,\ljcrdCT-n, 407. " Lanipotoh Temple," the, at Amoy, China, ^",6, ^■,;^-,y. " Land of the Mornin;.; Calm," tlie, see Korea . La I'crouse, tlie na\iL;atoi-, nionument to, jO- Laramie, 2. Lasisi Loint Uallery, the, at Maiula Bay, 490, 4'i.S. " La Trinidad," Ma.^hallaiib' ship, 472. Laurel, the, in Ja|ian, iro. Legaspi, Miguel de, sails fur the Phil- ippines, 471 : C'lmpletcs annexation of the Philippines to Spain, 473; at Cebu, 473 ; seizes Maynila,473, 476. Leper's \'illage, the, at Canton, China, S--6 Index Levte, the island of, 470. Lhassa. 303. Liao River, the, 464. Liaoyanj, 4;q; the Chinese at. 460. Li-Fin. King of Korea. 2;4: palace of. 254, 2^^: jSo, 2S2; ileclares his in- dependence of China, 2S2 ; protected by the Japanese, 449. Li Hung Chang. ^04. Li ila Han. lands at ^Manila. 4",": de- feated. 477. Lingking. the island of. 401; batteries on, 4'.->3. Li Pu, the. China, 377. Lisbon, 4 [ ;. 414. Long, Secretary Ji.>hn D.. instructions to Admiral Dewey frL>ni. 474. Longevity, tlie Temple of, at Canton, China. :;5 ;. Looclaoo Islands, the. iSo. Loqnat, the. in Japan, iii. Lotus fields, in japan, no. in, 17^. "Louis, Fussy little," ;q. Luenta battery, the, at ^LaniIa, 49S ; evacuated by the Spanish, 504. Luisi, China. "^02. Luna, Fort, at ^lanila, 490. Lu-She\v-ko\v. see Poii Li. " Lusiad.'' the, 41 ^. 414. Luzon, the island of. 41S, 470, 471. " Lymoon Pass,'' the, ^oq, 400, 41 i. M MacaC', China, 411; harbor of. 412; location oi. 412; Portuguese forts at, 412: the I'raya Grande at, 412 ; the Cluuch of St. Paul at, 412; the Hospital L'i the .Misericordi, 412 ; the grotto of Camoens at, 412; the Portuguese form a settlement at, 414; royal governors of, 414, 413; considered a h, 416; the peuple of, 410; the trade of, 416; a free port, 410. Macao passage, the, China, ■;47. MacArthur, Brigadier-General at ?v[a- nila, 5U4. " McCullnch," the U. S. revenue steamer, m the battle of Cavite, 4S4, 4S6. ?>IcDougal, the gallant, in the Straits of Shiraonoseki, 2z^\ lus tight with the Japanese, 229. ?\Iafonso JMountains, the, 41S. Magellan, SlS A/ai^')a.\'a'^s, H<:r- iiajido ii'c. Maghallans, Hernando de, nionum:-nt at Manila to, 42 :; : becomes a Spanish subject. 472 ; sails on a voyage of dis- co\"er\-, 472 : arrives at Kio Janeiro. 472 : at the Ladrone Islands. 472 ; at Mindanao. 472 ; at the Cutuano Ri\er, 472 ; celebrates the first mass in tlie Phiiippmes, 472; takes pus- session uf the Philippines tor Spain, 472 ; at Cebu, 472 ; killed at Magton, 472. Maghallans, tiie Strait uf, 472. Magton. the island oi, 472 ; ilaghallans killed on, 472. Mahomet. 471. iMahometan mosque, the. at Canton, China, }.62. Mahometans, in China. >"i:; ; at Hong- kong. 402. " Maimai." the, in Japan, lo'o. ■■ Makooshin. " ?*Iouut, 12. " Ma kora " iwooden pillow), the. in Japan, 14S. Makung, captured by the Japanese, Malate, Manila, 504. ilalate. Fort, the, at ^Manila, 500. y-jz, ;o4 ; destroved bv the American tieet, .04. ^lalavs, in Formosa. 32;; at Hong- kung. 402 ; in the Philippine Islands, 471. Mallow, the, in Japan, itt. "Mamori"' (stiletto), the. in Japan, 2 I (■, Mamori dnckyards, tlie. -^o^. '• Mana-ita." the Japanese, 145. JLinchuria, 27S, 2S2. 392, 4^1; the Japanese invasion of, ^j;S-4n;; the spring campaign in, 46;, 467. ilanchus, the. in the Chinese army, " Mandarin," the term, ^So. ^L-lndal-ins' Tea-garden, the, at Shang- hai, 2,00. Manila, Piiilippine Islands, location of, Index SV 41S; division of, 421; 422; streets ol, 422 ; the (..GveniDi's palace at, 422 ; La Luna pruiuenadii, 422, _j2^; the monument to ^Ui,L;i?llan, 42 :; ; earthquakes at, ^24; the statue of Don Carlos l\\, ^2(: thL chai-clies, ofj 425, 4211, 427 ; ei;-;ar iiiaiuitactuie at, 421.1; cemetery at. 420; tlie San Mi-uel drive, 42S ; the >|i,uiianl-^ at, 420 ; tlie lioLiscs (>r, .120 ; the dres> uf the women i)f, 4 ^t ; the l'hl^li:^h Chib at, 4^1 ; amLisenn.':its at, 4:51 ; population ot. 4J7, 473 ; newspapers of, 4'i7 : its beauties not appreciated, 470; seized for Spain by Lci^'aspi, 473 : trade between China and, 47:; : the Chinese in, -j 7 , : the arrival of a Chinese or Mexican \"es>el at, 471.1, 477; Li >L-i Ilan land:> at, 477; the American occujiation nt, 401. 49- ; the capture by the Americans of, 500-507. ** Manila/' the Spani.^h transport, caji- tured in the battle tif Ca\-ite. 401. Manila, the Dav of, 41S; descriptiim of, ■\'\7\ the American f^eet in, 4S4, 4S5. Manila liemp, 4^0; manufacture I'f, 430. Mapu, Chinese town of, 240, 241. Mare Island Navy Yard, the, 3, ;. ^Mariveles, 406, 4n.'>. " Marques del Dnero," the Spanish gunboat, in the battle of Cavite. 4S7; burned, 401. Marriages, Japanese, 140: Korean. 2r(4. Massage doctor, the Japanese, 93. Massey, John, 405. Mateo Mountains, tlie, 418. Matien Pass, 450. " Matsnshinia." the, of the Japanese navv, 445, 44''^; attacks the Cliincse fleet, 452-455 ; scriuasly injured, 454- Matting-factories, at Ilonan, Canton, " Mava,'-' the, of the Japanese navy, 445- 44^^- Mayburn, the capital of the Sultan of Suhi, 471. Maynila, see Manila. Maynila, the King of, 473. '• ^Medicine min,"' the, of Korea, 2S2. Medicines. Kuix-an, 2Sn. Meji, tlie, in |apan, 208. Me-l^ang-shang, Miiuiit, P'ormosa, 320. Melada, 216. .Mengka, the town of, lAirmn^a, 3211. .Men itt, ^Lljor-( -eiieral Wesley, ar- ri\ es at Manila, 502 ; his imte to laudeiirs, :;o2 ; his repl\ , 50 -, ; de- mands the surrender ul the I'hilip- pines, 505 ; becomes tho liist Ameri- can governor of the I'lnhppiiies, 505, 506. •■ ^Mestizos,"' the, in the IdiiJippine Islands, 4 y^. i\Ietal-work, Lhlnese, 500. Meral-wiirkers, in Japan, 210. Mexici:^, ",80,425,4^0; the ! 'hiHpi>ines, dependencies ot, 475 ; trade between the Philippines and, 479. ^likados, the, sujireme heads ot the Japanese Empire, 185; their efforts to depose the Shoguns, 185. '^ Mikawa inausai," the, in Japan, 206. iMikawa-uchi ware, Japanese, 223. " Miko," the, in Japan, 206. IMinato River, the, Ja|>an, 129, 132. Minatogawa River, the, japan, 135. Mindanao, the island nf, 470, 471 ; Ma- gliahans at, 472. Ming dynasty, tlie, in China, 285, 320, ^Iingo-no-:\l!kato, tlie principal deity of the Shinto faitli, 105. ]\Iino, Japan, 204. Miochiu family, tlie, famous Japanese metal-workers, 21(1. Mir's Hay, 480. Mistletoe, die, in Japan, in. I\Iita, lapan, 75. Mitcl-irll, (.eorge, 405. " Mohican," tlie, 2h. Moji, japan, 1 78 ; situation of, 181; described, 1S1-184. Money-changers, Chinese, 395. Mongolia, 392. Mongols, the. in tlie Chinese army, 393. Monivden, 4v'^; theCliinese in force at, 466. Monkden road, the, 450. " Monkey llilh" 'I'aknw. I'urmosa, 323. Monkshood, the, m Japan, in. 528 Index " Monocacy," the old, 52. Monsoons, ^ ^o, ^31, 3^2. -i;^-^. '• Monterey,"' the U. S. vc^bel, at Ma- nila, 503, 504. Monto Buddhists, the, in Japan, 199. Montojo, Admiral, in cunimand of the Spanish fleet at Cavite, 4SS ; wounded, 4SS ; 490, 499. Montomachi, the, Kobe, Japan, 139. Moon Lake, China, "^07. Moors, the, .| 1 ^. Morikage, at Koga, 224 ; death of, 224. Moro language, the, 47 V Mortuary temples of tlie Shoguns, the, at Sheba, 91 ; description of, 94-103. Mulberry, the, in Japan, 11 1 ; in Korea, 2S6. Mallard, S., 405. " Musabhi,"' the, of the Japanese navy, 445' 44'J- Museum, the, at Inkio, 106 I\Iussulmans, the, 471. Musiime, the, in 'I'okio, 70 ; in Kobe, :Mutsu-hi[o, the Mikado of Japan. 76 : his palace at Tokio, 114, 115 ; de- scription of, 119; a great lo"\er of fl(.i\vers, 119; ^\■onderfLd refornib ac- complished by, 120, 121; his great- ness, 12^^; o\erthro\\s the Shogims, 1N5 ; forms a constitutional system of go\'ernment, 1S6; the spiritual as well as the temporal head of the em- pire, 1S6 ; his new constitution, 1S6; his cabinet, 1S6 ; his jealous care for the army and navy, iSS, 105; tlie great incarnate god c^f Sliintoism, 196. N NaBASHIMTi. 22^,. Nagasaki, J.ipan, r i ^, ; situation of, 1 59 ; history of, t6o ; described, 160 ; the O'SuLva Temple near, 16^-164 ; the korauslia at, 164 ; industries at, 164, 165, 166; fishing interests of, 1G6 ; harbor of, 167 ; the Feast of Lanterns, jr-ui: the dry-dock at, 17;. 177: its water supply, 178 ; the crematnr\' near, 17S; the old mill at, 180; the climate ':>f, 181 ; imports and exports of, iSi ; newspapers of, iSi ; churches and schools at, iSi ; population of, iSi ; foreign residents of, iSi ; 192. Xagoya, Japan, i :;3 ; a militar}' dis- trict, 1S8. Nainaimo, mines at, 9. '' Nakadu '" (middleman), the, in Japan, 149, 150. Xakamashema coal-mine, the, Japan, Nan-hai, 1,20. '• Xaniwa," the, of the Japanese navy, description of, 189 ; 445, 446 ; attacks and wrecks the " Kuang Yi," 449; sinks the " Kowshing,"' 4:^0 ; attacks the Chinese fleet, 4:;2-4;5. " Nanshan," the U. S, transport, in the battle of Ca\'ite, 4S4. " Xapier," the ship, 408. Kara school of metal-workers, in Japan, 217. Xasliiji decoratii.n. the, in Japan, 212. Nasima Light, 4S. " Nazo toki," the, in Japan, 206. Negroes, at Hong-kong, 402. Xegros, the island of, 470 : the people of, 471. X"e-no-omi, rebels against tlie Emperor ^"uryaku, 201; death of, 201. " Nestor," the story of, 20. Netherlands, the, blockade the Philip- pines, 477 ; defeated by the Spanish, 477- New Chwang, China, ':,92, 411. " New]iort," the U, S. transport, at Manila, 502. Nichiren Buddhists, the, in f^pan, 199. Nicka, Japan, temple at, 210. Nieuchwang, 459; the Chinese at, 460, 464. Ningpo, China, water-port ac, 305 ; location of, 306; tlie surrounding country, 306 ; industries of, 306; the city walls, 306; the moat, 306,307; " the heaven-sent pagoda " at, 30S ; streets of, 30S ; shops of, 30S; burial- places outside, 30S ; opened to for- eign trade, 31S; its coasting and in- land trade, 31S ; population of, 319. Ningpo River, the, China, 305 ; pon- toon bridge across, ^oS, 309. Nippon, 1 12. Nirvana, meaning of, 200. Index 529 Ni-Taijo, 2^2; deposes the \\'ang dy- nasty in Korea, 2S1. " Niugyo-tsukai," the, in Japan, 206. Niusei, a famous Japanese porcelain- worker, 225. Nobility, the Japanese, restoration of, 1S7/ Nobles, Chinese, 370. Nobuiye, 216. Nodzu, General, in the japan-China war, 451 ; at Haicliang, 463. Nogi, General, at Kaiping, 460. Nomi-no-Sukime, tlie originator of Japanese ceramic art, 220 ; decorated, 220. North America, tlie Pacihc coast of, 320. North China, 2S1 . North Formosa, 326. Nunabiki waterfall, the. at Kobe, Japan, 137, 140, 141. " Nymphe," the, 26. O Oak, the, in Japan, 110. Oakland, 3, 5. " Obi " (sash), the, in Japan, 132, 14S. Ogden, 2. Ohlutors, the. 45. Ojiu, the Japanese god of war, 2SS. Okhotsk, the Sea of, 44. Old age, lapan a paradise for, S- ; Ko- rean respect for, 2S4. "Old Man," 13. Old Men's Home, the, at Canton, China, 363. Old Women's Home, the, at Canton, China, 363. Oliff, M., 405. Oliva, A. M. de, in command of the " Castilla " in the battle of Cavite, 490; wounded in battle, 497. " Olympia," the U. S, S., in the battle of Cavite, 4S4, 485, 4SS, 4S9, 491, 495' 5^3' 5^4; 5^5- Olympics, the, 7, .S, 11. Omaha, 2. "Ombo," the, in Japan, 206. Omori school of metal-workers, in Japan, 217. Onalga Pass, tlie^ 12. '■ Onyoshi," the, in Japan, 206. Opium-smoking, in China, 317, 366 ; description of, 31 7. Opium war, the, between Great Britain and China, 31S. ''Orange Peko " tea, tlie preparation of, 36S. Oribe ware, Japanese, 225. Osaka, Japan, 133; situation of, 153; the '-Venice of the East," 153; a nati\'e city, 15",; the lnii>crial mint at, 154; the products c»f, 1 54 ; a mamifacturing centre, 154; the seat of tlie Provincial government, 154 ; formerly the capital of the 'J'oku- gawa Shoguns, 155 ; the castle of the Shoguns at, 155; the Ilaku Butsu at, 156; the Temngi temple at, 15O; the population c>f, 151'"'; the imports and exports of, 136 ; a mili- tary district, iSS; 192, 216. Oseka, General, in the Japan-China war, 45S. Oshima, General, in the Japan-China war, 430. " Oshima," the, of the Japanese navy, 44 5 > 4-1 '^>- O'Sueva Temple, the, near Nagasaki, Japan, 16:;; described, 163, 104. "Overland Flyer," the, 2. Owaii, the province of Japan, 224. Owair, tiie plains of, 75. Owl, the, in Japan, 1 1 1. Ozamiz, J., in command of the trans- port '■ Manila " in the battle of Ca- vite, 491. F Paoian Islaxd, Pescadores, the Japanese fieet at, 465. Pacific Ocean, the, 5. iS, 44. 156, 469, 472. Pagoda, the ''heaven-sent,'' at Xingpo, China, 30S; description of, 30S. Painters, Chinese, 352. Palm, the, in Japan, 11 r. Panay, the island of, 470. " Panfah," the Chinese tender, sunk b\' tlie Japanese. 462. Fapiiiberg, the island of, Japan, 157, I 59, iGo. 426. Paragua, the island of, 471. 34 53^ Index Parliament, the first Japanese, iS6; composition of, i86, 192. Parsees,the, in Japan, 51, 64 ; at Hong- kong, 402. Pasai, American troops at, 502. Pasig River, the, 41S, 421, 423, 43S, 49o> 493' 5^4- S'^'^- Pass No. 72, 32. " Paul, Prince,'" 14; visits the " Alert," 15; his unfortunate experience, 13. Pawn-shops, Chinese, 364- Pearl River, the, see Hu-mun River^ the. Pei-ho River, the, China, 235. Peking, China, 252, 269, 391, 392; the Chinese in force at, 466. " Penia-cloth,'' 439. Pepo-hohans, the, 32-1; characteristics of, 324; their love for the Dutch, 324 : driven back by the Chinese, 324- Pepper, John, 405. Perry, Commodore, visits Japan, 192, 222. Pescadores, the, 425, 465 ; ceded to Japan, 466, 467. Peter the Great, 38. "Petrel," the U. S. S., in the battle of Cavite, 4S4, 4SS, 4S9, 491, 503, 504. Petropaulski, the Russian settlement of, 34, 36; history of, :;S ; Behring at, 3S ; description of, 38, 39 ; the houses of, 39; customs of the inhabi- tants of, 40 : products of, ^1,42, 44 ; the harbor of, 45. Philippine Islander, the, description of, 473, 474. Philippine Islands, the, 3, 112, v^ ; Chinese emigrants in, -^87 ; intro- duction of vaccination into, 424; lo- cation of, 432, 469 ; division of, 4^2 ; populadon of, 432; Jesuits at, 4^3; priests and their power, 4-^^2 ; early strife in, 432 ; captured by the British, but restored to Spain, 4^,2, 477 ; troops, 432 ; untamed Indians of, 433; the "mestizos" of, 4:;:; ; the wet season in, ^y-^ ; a centre of vol- canic action, 435 ; earthquakes in, 435; the people wf, s^-t^-] \ gambling in, 437; the climate of, 4-^7, 4fi9, 470; population of, 437; the public revenue of, 43S; exports of, 43S ; the manufacture of Manila hemp, 439 ; the principal islands of, 470 ; prohibitive restrictions of trade, 470; the original settlers of, 471 ; celebra- tion of the first mass in, 472 ; taken possession of by Maghallans for Spain, 472 ; Legaspi completes the annexation to Spain of, 47^ ; the official language of, 473 ; the Friars the actual rulers of, 474 ; dependen- cies of Mexico, 476; Spain's effort to cut off trade of Mexico and China from, 476; blockaded by ships from the Xetherlands, 477; the public revenue of, 477; should not be re- stored to Spain, 477 ; the needs of, 478 ; captured by the.Americans, 500- 507 ; Aguinaldo proclaims the inde- pendence of, 501 ; the American commanders demand the surrender of, 505 ; General Merritt becomes the first American governor of, 50 s. '' Pheasant," the, 26. Pheasant, the, in Japan, m. Pichili, Gulf of, China. 2:;5, 2-^7, 451 ; the Chinese fleet at, 452 ; the Japan- ese fleet at, 45;;, 460. Pine, the. in Japan, i ti. Ping-yang, Korea, 241, 450; Chinese troops at, 451; attacked and cap- tured by the Japanese. 452. Ping-yang Inlet, 250 ; description of, 260, 2ru ; fortifications and Govern- or's House at, 26"^; 266, 45T ; the Japanese fleet at, 4^2, 455 ; battle at, 452-455, 456. Ping-yang River, the, Korea, 27Q. " Ping Yuen." the. of the Chinese na\'v, 448 ; attacked by tiie Japanese fleet, 453-455 ' fallen 3s a prize by the Japanese, 467. Pisa, the tower of. -^c^^. Pitsewo, the town of, occupied by the Japanese, 455. Plantago, the, in Japan, rii. IMum, the wild, in Japan, ni. Poabi, P'ormosa, -^2^^ ; nati\'e huts at, 324. Ponghan, the Japanese troops landed at, 465. Index 531 Ponies, Japanese, s''; Chinese, 56, i-v. 205. Pontoon bridge, the, at Ningpo, China, 30S. Poppy, the, in Japan, iii. Porcelains, Japanese, 75, 134, 10^,220- 224; Chinese, 22^,, 3110. Port Arthur, China. ti.>rtitications at, 2^^, 451; the Cliine^e Hect at, 452, 455; fortifications ut. 45(1; captured by the Japanese, 457; made the base of the Japanese operations, ^^^ ; 400, 463; ceded to Japan, but returned to China, 466. Port Li, China, 394. Portugal, the King of, 415. Portuguese, tlie. 27S ; discover For- mosa. 329; in Canton. China, 37,; 411; form a settlement at IMacao, 414; jealous of tlic PhiHppines, 4:12. Potters, Korean, 221. Pottery, Japanese, 221. Poung, Do, the island nf, 449, "Powhatan," the U. S. steam frigate, 405. Praya Grande, the, at Macao, 412. Praya Road, the, at Ilung-kong, 402. Prefects, Japanese, 1S6 ; their rank and powers, 1S7. Pribyloff Islands, the, 2S. " Priest Rock," 13. Priests, Shinto, in Japan. ir/>. Priests, in the Philippine Islands, 432; their power. 4^2. Ptarmigan, in Unalaska, jCk 2]. Pulo Caballo Island Battery, the. at Manila Bay, 490. Piinta Gorda Battery, the, at Manila Bay, 490, 49S. Purientas, the. 413. "Pu-san," see Fu-san. Quail, 44. 31S. Queen of Heaven, the, Chinese temple to, 307, 30S. Queen's Road. the. at Honci-kong. 402. Quelpart, Korea. 275 ; location of. 275; description of, 275; coast of, 275; 27g. Queue, the, Chinese regard for, 3S3. Kagoku Bashi, the, at Tnkio, 107. Railroads, in Japan, 1^2. i:;:;, 178; in China, 21,4, :;<;2. " Raleigli." the U. S. .^., in the battle ol Ca\itc, 4S4, 4X3 ; demands the surrender of the Curregidor forts, 489 ; 491, 501, 503, 504. " Rapido," the Spanisli boat captiu'ed in the battle of Cavite, 41)1. " Rattlei," the Ihitish stcain-sloup, 405. Recoletn (irder, the, in the Philipipines, 474- Red Cross Society, the, 114. " Reina Cristina,'' the .'-Spanish cruiser, destroyed by the American fleet, 477 ; in the battle uf Ca\'ite, 4S6 ; set on fire, 4SS, 490 i 495, 496. Reno, 2. Restinga Puint, the batteries of, fire upon the Ameiican iieet, 4S5; 4r|0, 40S, Kice, in Japan, 7',, 75, 70, 11 1; in Korea, 239 ; in Cliina, 31S, 354, 389. Rio Janeiro, Magliallans arrives at, -I7-- Risanpei, a Korean potter, 223. Rol^ion, E., in command of tlie '• Don Antonio de Ulloa " in tlie battle of Cavite, 490 ; woimded in battle, 497. Rocky Mountains, the, 2. " Roku Dai," the sixth 'J'okugawa .'■hogun, tomb of, 102 ; described, 10^. Roman Catholic priests, in Korea, 2S1. Rome, 2S3. Rose, the, in Japan, iii. Roze Island, Knrca, 2:;(), 26S. Russia, the Emperor of, requests Japan not to occupy Fort Arthur. 466. Russian Church, the, 19. Russian Empire, the, 3.S, 191. Russians, the, on .-^t. George Island, 29; in Petn.pauiski, 3S ; defeated by the British and French at Fetro- paulski, 39; tra-drinking among, 40: in Japan, 64. " Rvomin," the, in Japan, 202. 203, 204, 205, 53- Index Sable, 43. Sacramento, 3. Sacred white horse of Jungu Temple, the, 2SS. Saijiro, originator of Kutana ware, 224 ; death uf, 224. Sailors, Japanese, 1S9. St. George, the island of, 25, 2S ; the " Alert " at, 28 ; location of, 2S ; the inhabitants of, 29 ; the settlement of, 20, ^0, 32. St. Paul, the Church of, at Macao, 412. St. Paul Island, 26, 2S ; the " Alert" at, 28, 29, ;^o, 37. St. Petersburg, 20. '' Saki " (lemonade), Japanese, 136, 151. " Sakyo," the Japanese steamer, attacks the Chinese fleet, 452-455. Salmon, 17, iS, 2r, 43, 44. Salmon berry, tlie, in Unalaska, 16. Saman, the ibland of, 470. " Samisan," the Japanese, 136. " Samovar/' the, description of, 40. Sampan ferry, Japanese, 159. " Sampans," Japanese, 51, 63, 75, 160, 345- "Samuri," the, in Japan, 215. '■ San Antonio," Magliallans' ship, 472. Sandwich Islands, the, Chinese emi- grants in, 3S7. San Francisco, i, 3, 5, 9, 469. Sangley Point Battery, the, at Cavite, 490, 496, 49S. San Lucae de Banameda, Maghallans sails from, 472. San Miguel drive, the, Manila, 422, 428. Santa Ana, the con\'ent of, 414. "Santiago," Maghallans' ship, 472. Sanyo Railway, the, in Japan, 13^. " Sarugaku Xn,'' the, in Japan, 206. " Saru-hiki," the, in Japan, 206. Satee River, the, Korea, 239, 241 ; navigation of, 241 . Sato, Colonel, in the Japan-China war, 451- Satsuma, the ]-*rince of, invades Korea, 220, 222. Satsuma porcelain, Japanese, 220; loses favor, 221; regains favor, 222; modern work inferior to the ancient, 222. Satsuma-Tangen potter}^, Japanese, 221. "Scented Caper" tea, the preparation of, 36S. Schoolmasters, Chinese, 313; the honorable position of, 314 ; respon- sibility of, 314. Schools, Chinese, 313; punishments in, 314, 3S2. Schools, Japanese, 106, 123, 174. Sea Island cotton, 2S5. Sealers, illegal, 24, 25, Seal hunting, 27, 28. Sea lions, 17. Seal rookeries, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31. Seals, 12, 17, 26; description of, 27; 2S, 29, ;}fO ; habits of, 30, 31 ; 37, 44. Seals, use in China, Japan, and Korea of, 214. Seal-skins, treatment of, 31, 32. Sea-otter, 43. Sedan chair, tlie, in Japan, 121 ; in Korea, 256. Seiji ware, Japanese, 224. Seikwan, Korea, the Chinese defeated by the Japanese at, 450. " Seki-mori," the, in Japan, 206. Semencheng, 45S. "Semmin," the, in Japan, 201, 202, 205, 207, 208. Senate and Supreme Judiciary, the, in Japan, iS6. Sendai, Japan, a military district, 1S8. Seoul, Korea, 70, 139, 240, 241, 251; description of, 252; houses of, 252; "belt-roads" in, 253; gateway to, 253; the King's palaces in, 253; shops of, 25 t; street-life in, 256, 277, 279, 281, 291, 443, 450; Japanese troops at, 452. Sepo3"s, Indian, at \'ictoria, 406. Sesame, the, in Japan, ni. Seto, 224. Settsu, the pro\'ince of, Japan, 153. Shaghalen Islands, tlie, 41. Shakudo school of bronze-workers, the, in Japan, 217. Shambashi, Japan, 75. " Sha-mien," the Sand-flats, Canton, Ind ex 5: China, 344 ; its use for forei,c;n resi- dents, 346, 347; its location, 347; the residences on, ^47, 34^, >]o. Shan-chas-siian, Mount, Forniosa. ^20. Shaugiiai, China, 294; railway at, 294; location of, 295; 30 1; consulates at, 295; description of. 2<)y, tlie dri\cs about, 295; the old towu, 2ito; the gateways of, 296; the streets of. 207 ; the houses of, 2(17 ; the jieoplc oi, 297; the shops of. 20S ; the ciiarity hos- pital at, 209 ; the Mani.larin's tea- garden at, 300; the Jc\V(_ller'^ (.iuild at, 300; the great temple at, '^-,00; tea-gardens at, 3D1 ; the nuinicipal government uf the foreign settle- ments, 303; churches, missions, and schools at, ^o;^ ; in posse^sion of the Tae-ping rebels, 304 ; commercial importance ot, 304 : imports and exports ot, :;o4 ; opened to foreign trade, 31S ; 319, 302, 393. Shan-hai-kwan, China, 392. Shantung, the district of, 46;^. Shantung promontory, the, China, 227, 451. 455' 4''0. Sharhaiwan, the Chinese in force at, 466. Sheba, Japan, mortuary temples of the Shoguns at, 91, 9^ ; dcscrijitinn of, 94-105; 200; temple at. 210. Shepherd's purse, the, in Japan, iii. Shibuichi school of bn.mze-workers, in Japan, 217. Shigaraki ware, lapanese, 225, Shikoku. japan, 100. "Shiku," the. in Japan, 206. Shimonoseki, Japan, i2j, 133; govern- ment dockyards at, 13^. Shimonoseki, the Straits of, Japan, 1^6, 227; McDougal in, 229; description of, 229. 274. Shina, Korea, in\aded by the Japanese, 2S7. Shina. the King of, submits to the Japanese, 2S7. Shinegawa, Japan, 7^. " Shin-gu," the sacred Chinese edict, 3S1. Shing-king. China, -^o.]- Shinkoji, the temple of, at Kobe, Japan, 130. Shmtoism, in Japan, 105 ; described, 105; iSo, 192; lundamental princi- ple of, 195 ; is broad and liberal, 19s ; principal deity of, 195: the Sacred Book of, 19O; the Mikado the great incarnate god ol, i9'5 ; 200. Shinto temples, in japan, 105 ; de- scribed, 10:;, io6, 107; 170, 197. "Shinuhi," the, in japan, 202. Ship-building, in Ja[^an, 72, 134. Shippo ware, Japanese, 219 ; manu- facture of, 210. Shirkie, the, in |a|.ian, 11 1. Siiiro, the, at Tokin, 70. ■■ Shisaldin," Mount, 12. '■ Shishi-mai," the, in |apan. 206. Shogunate, the Japane>e, founded by Voi'i-toLu-i, 187 ; 210. Shoguns. tlie, in Japan, 1^9; the mili- tary commanders, 1S3 ; efforts of the Mikados to depose, 1S5; overthrown by the present Mikado, 185 ; patrons of art, 210. Shoguns, the I'okug'^ wa, mortuary temples of, near Sheba, 91, 94, 95, 97- Shopajul, the islanil of, 449. Shousui, of Isc, the father i<( Japanese porcelain, 222, 22 v Siberia, 20. 44, 275, Sidracli, J., in commancl of the "' Isla de Cuba" in the battlt* of Ca\'ite, 400. Sikhs, at Hong-kong. 402. Silk. Japanese. ''>o, 1^4 ; Chinese, 236. Silk weavers, Chinese, 355, 390. Silvers, James, 405. Silveria, Icrnnimu de, first royal gov- ernor ot Macan, 414. Si\uien, 45S. Sla\'es, in Japan, 203-20:;. "Sleeping liuddha," the, at Canton, China, :;5r). Snipe, the, in Japan, iii; in China, 31S. "S; the Chinese in force at, 466. Takushan, 45S; held by the Japanese, 460. Takuzaycmon, 22"^. Talienwan Day, the Chinese fleet at, 452, 455 : tlie Japanese fleet at, 456; made the base of the Japanese opera- tions, 456, 457, 460, 463, 466. Talu Tao, 4;4. Tambo, American troops at, 501, ^02. Tamekichi, 224. Tam-sui, k'ormosa, 320, 329, 333. Tam-sui River, the, Formosa, ^20, 326. Tangen, the Prince of, 221, " Tan Haks," secret societies in Knrea, 443- Tan-shan ?iIountains, the, Formosa, 320. Tanyu, the famous decnrator, 221. Taoism. 103. Tapingsham, captured by the Japanese, 4^v Tartars, the, conquer China, 12:;; tic- feat Kisbi, 2S1 ; drive the Dutcli out of Formosa, 329; in Can'on, China, 34S ; degrade the CJiinese, 3S2 ; 3>!i->. Tatsumi, General, enters Fenghuan- chung, 458, 459. Tattooing, in Formosa, "^25. Tea, 40; picking in China, 3oi-:;o2 ; its cultivation in China, 31S ; For- mosan trade in, ^y^ ; the prepara- tion of, :;68. Tea-bush, the, in Japan, iii. Tea hongs, Chinese, 307. Tea-houses, Japanese, 71 ; Korean, 240. Tea-testing, in China, 3fiS. Tea trade, the, in JajKni, 152. Telegraph, the, in Korea, 241, 273; in China, 392. Ind ex 535 " Temple of Ilorrors," the, at CanUm, China, 31:1 i . Temple of tlie I'ioJ of War, the, at Can- tun, China, 31.12. " Temple of the Ocean Banners," the, see Har-Chzvang-SzL\ tin.-. Templei, Chinese. ^07. Temroji Temple, the, at O^aka, lap.m, 1 v3. Tenchan, 460. Tents, Tartar. 04. Teruhide, 217. ^' Teubotate," tlie. in Japan, 206. Teiikchasu. the ti_>\vn of, Formo^a, ^2^1. " TeLU"in/" the, of the Japanese na\_\, 445i 4-1'-'- Thai-LUian. the port kA^ I'"orniosa, ~^2b. Theatres, Japanese, 00. Theatrical sch(:iol, the, at Cantnn, Chma, V-'5- " Thetis," the, 26. Thibet, 392. Tiiird OregfJD Infantr)', tlie, at Maniht. 4f)2. Thistle, the, in Japan, iii. Thompson, Quartermaster, death ul, 22 ; buried at sea, 22^ 23, Three-Peaked Point, 402. Tienchwangtai, the Chinese at, 4fjo ; captured by the Japanese, 464. Tientsin, China, ^192, 393 ; the Cliincse in force at, 46'j. Tiger, the, in Korea, 262. " Tiger's iMouth," the, see " Boca- Tigrish the. Ting, Admiral, in the Japan -China ■war, 453; engages the Japanj-^e fleet, 453; capitulates with the Jai)ane^e, 463 ; commits suicide, 4';^. '• Ting Yuen." the, of the Chinese navy, 44S; attacked by the Japanese ffeet, 4;3--435 ; sunk by the Jajxuie'-.e. 462. Tobacco, in Korea, 2S6. Tobacco-fields, Japanese, 75. in. Tobacco industry, tlie, in Chin.i, 365. Togalog language, the, 47^, *' Togalogs," the, 471; tlescription of, 471. Togi-dashi decoration, the, in Japan, 212. Tokio, 65, 72, 75; situation of, 76; Inhabitants of, 711; a [licture of hfe at, 70; the children ut", ^4, 94; the Museiun .ind the Zoological and Bo- tanical (iardcns at, 106; the Im- peri.d L'ni\ersity at, lof.i; the Club and hnteli of, 107; the Emperor's paLtce at, 1 14 ; 133, 155, 1S5 ; a mili- tary district, i,s:s ; 192. Tokio Historical Societ)', the, 201. Tokugawa, Shoguns, the, in Japan, 105; Osaka formerly the capital of, 155 ; surrender tu the Mikado, 135; the castle C'f, 153 ; deposition of, i,S7; nuich given to social classifica- tinns, 2l'3-207 ; 20S. Tomiwka, the I-'oiut of, 48. 'I'ong-hai, 320. 'i'oril, Japianese, 49. 'I Urtwise-ihell work, in Japan, 165. To\' pedler, the Japanese, 103. Toys, cliildren's, in Japan, 88. Tramps, Japanese, 204. Tient, tlie Council of, 473. ■' rrueadn," the, 09, 71. Trouhadiiurs, Japanese, 93 4Vm.ker, 2. I'sai I'icn, see k'//ang-.Sn. '' I'sau Kiang," the Chinese steamer, -149; taken .1^ pi ize by the " Akit- sushima/' 450. " Tsein," the, 3.S4 ; value of, 3S4; use of, 3S4. 'J'sianghan, Chinese city of, -306. Tsike, Chinese city of, 306. " Tsi Vucn," the, of the Chinese nav}-, 44'"); attacket! b\' the lapanese, but escaiies, 441",, j^^o\ taken as a prize hv the Japanese. 46 ^ " 'I'stilie," the use i^f, in Japan, 216, TsubrM, Kcar-Admirah attacks the Chinese Heet, _i4u. Tsui-koku lacquer, the, in Japan. 212. Tsui-shiu lacqiiir. the. in Japan, 212. " '1 siiji-mekur,!," in Japan, 2o''(. " Tsukushi," the, of the Japanese na\'>3 ilescriptinn (.>f, 1S9; 445. Tsumi, japan. 7;. Tn-cha-Yuan, the, China, description nf, 37S. Tunmn River, the, Korea.. 279; de- scription of, 279, 53^^ Index Tundi Buddhists, the, in Japan. loS. Tung Chi, Empeior ol China, 371'; death of, 376. Turks, at Hong-kong, ^o;;-,. Tu-tsing, the Tartar dynasty of, 376. Tu-tsing Huei-tien, the, China, 377. Tyam Bay, China, 400. T}'phoons, 320, 330J 400. U Umbrella-making, in Japan, 209. Unalaska, the settlement of, 5, 6, 13; description of, 14, 15; wild flowers of, Id; the hunter's paradise, 16; fish uf, 17; the principal occupation of, 17, iS; the women, iS, 28, 34. United States, the, iS ; 22, 132, 191, 192 ; treaty bet\\'een Korea and, 291 ; Chinese emigrants in, 3S7 ; 3S9, 392,438 ; declarer war against Spain, 480. " Universal Fostal Union, the, 192. Uijina, 460. U}'cno, Japan, temple at, 2!o. Vaccination, introduced into the Thilipi^ine I^.lands, 424. Vancouver Island, 7, S. Varnish plant, the. in Japan, 11 r. "Venice of the East." the. see Osal-a. "\'ictoria, British Columbia, 6, 7 ; the "Alert"' at. S: location of , S ; his- tory cf, S; desciiption Cif. <:> : a curi- ous (jld custom, 9 ; busine-^s custuuis at, 9; the houses and climate, 10, 1 2. Victi ria. irijnc;-kong, ^4;, ':;oo ; loca- tion of, 401 ; descriptir^n of, 401 ; society at, 401 ; modern inipro\'e- ments at, 40"; ; quiet and cirderly, 40^1: industries of. 406; newspapers at, 4or.. 40;. "\'ictoria," JMa:;hallans' ship, 472. Victoria Peak, 410. " Villa Loba-^," the S]"ianish vessel, burned in the battle of Ca\"ite, 401. Violet, the, in Japan, rii. Virginia, old, 241. Visaya language, the. 47:;. " \"isa}"as," the, 471 ; description of, 471. Madivostok, Korea, 271. Volcanoes, 19, 34,44, hi, H-, Hj- Wagtail, the, in Japan, in. •■ Waki-zashi " (sword;, the, in Japan, 215. \\"alker, .Asa, in connnand of the "Con- cord " in the battle of Ca\ite. 491. Walnut, tlie, in Japan, iii. AA'alrubes, 44. Wanrjiua, China, 347. Wang dynast}", the, in Korea, 2S1. " War-san,"' see Gen-sau. Washington, the State of, 7. Water-ti.iw 1, 44. Wax, the \egetable, in Japan, 11 1. '• Wealth God," the, see Dai h'oku. Weddings, Japanese, 130; Chinese, \\'e:-lbil-Wei. China, fortilicatiuns of, 2y-^ ; importance vi. 233 ; location of, 2i^ ; de>cnpti(.in ot, 233 ; tamous tenii.)les at, 2^(^ ; na\al college at, 2 :;(.! ; h.irbor of, 2 V3 ; arsenals at, 236 ; believed by Chinese to be impreg- nable, 236 ; 4^1 ; the Chinese fleet at, 452, 456; 460; threatened by the Japanese fleet, 460 ; its defences, 401 ; attacked by the Japanese, 461, 462: occupied by the Japanese, 462; 46r,. Wei-H.ii-Wei Bav, ^v'.. ■• \\a Vuen," the, of tlie Chinese navy, 44S : attacked by the Japanese, 440 ; sunk by tlie Japanese, 4''i2. Wenc; Tsnnj Hien, Emperor, of China, ",76. West India Islands, the, Chinese emi- f^rants in, :;S;. Whalers, e5,'32, \Miales, 12. ] 7. a;. 20, 44. " White Cloud Mountains," the, Canton, China, 344, 359. Wiju, the city of, 4 58. Wildes, Frank, in command of the " Boston," in the battle of Cavite, 401. William, Fort, S, Williams, Mr,, U. S, Consul at Manila, 4 So. Wiluckneski, Mount, 46. Ind ex 5 37 Wiiinemucca, 2. Wistaria, in Japan, So, iii. Wolves, ill Unalaska, 16. Woman's College of Baltimore, the, 16. Women, iS, 20, ::i, 41; unique life ul Japane.^e, i-ij; in Korea, 264. Wood, K. 1'., In command ; 71, -2^']-^^ 114, 123, 133 ; the breakwater rif, 229 ; 479. Yokeiya school nf inetal-\vurkers, in lapan, 217. \.\iri-toiii-i, (leneral, founds the Sho- gunate, i S7. Yoshidaya, 224. " \'oshinn," the, of the Japane-^e na decription of, 1S9 '. 445, 44'* ; attacks the '• \\"ei \"uen," 449 ; the '• Ts Yuen '■ escapes foun, 450 ; attack; the Chinese fleet, 452-455 ; 4O0 Yuna River, the, China, 306. Yungching, occupied by the Japanese. 461. Yungching Bay. 4''io. " \'ung Wei," the. of the Chinese navv, 448 ; attacked by the Japanese fleet, 4; :;-4 55 ; disabled and fired, 4^4. Yuryaku, Emperor, rebellion against, 201. " Zafiro," tlie U. S. transport, in the battle of Cavite, 4^4 5 505- Zamboango, the city of, an ojion port, 470. " /ato," the, in Japan, 206. '' Zelandia," the old Dutch fort, 326, 329. Zenaba Tea-i louse, the, at Yokohama, Zingorn, 224. Zoological and Bntauical Gardens, the, at Tokio, 100.