f^rvir^i 'm^m^mrss^^: iBBsSSSuiimMsS^^^ 'd'^N'^^fTsM A«,n A./^^ .•-r^l '/T.w.K-r'M.O-W^xVr^., «^^r' wm AftAAftP*^^ aaAAA' ^^^■:--^*:).^*:v/;^;c% '.O'r^,')^',,'-^'' '^C!PR?f« ^S^^A/^AA i^^S .r^r^mmmm'. v^.,^:/^A^- ,^/^!^^^|^^^.^ Hr^5^^^ '^rtHH/ ^^kafi^M^M <£r\r^. ^ia,^mi ^r^--^r\.n ^frnmSuMfi^Mm '0;n^^^' ^^^*-.T Y mtm, r^^I ^■iSiv^MM^rai&'^i^lJAw ii«B ■.viSk^ifedet'^ .i NV3EVM0FTHEA/AE1L1CAN INDIAN.' FJtEBERICK W. HODGE COi-LSETION 3 1924 104 080 522 ^\ m XI Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924104080522 UKTTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURYET F. M. THORN SUPE n INTKNDKNT METHODS AND RESULTS VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION ' ON THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA FROM 1539 TO 1603 APPENDIX No. 7-REPORT FOR 1886 WASHINGTON GOVBKNMBNT I^UINTING OFFICE 1 887 tri^ITED STATES COAST AKD GEODETIC SUEYET F. M. THORN SUPERINTENDENT METHODS AND RESULTS VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION ON THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA FROM 1639 TO 1603 APPENDIX No. 7— REPORT FOR 1886 WASHINOTON GOVBENMBNT PRINTING OFFICE 1887 ADDITIONS AND COEKECTIONS. Page 156, line 30: For seventy, read seventy-one. Page 160, column 1, line 7 refers to line 5 column 2. Page 190, column 1, line 15: For las, read los. Page 210, column 1, line 3 from bottom: For four or five, read three. Page 212, column 1, line 13: For four or five, read three. Page 216, column 1, lines 5, 4, 3 from bottom should read: "Foeda corporum laoeratione et crebris in montibus sacrificijs, hujus Novae A.lbionis portus incol^e, Draci, jam bis corouati, decefsum deflent." Page 222, column 1, bufore first line insert: £1 Gabo de Finos, Ferrelo, 40°. Feb., Mar., 1543. Page 222, column 1. line 20, add: (See p. 228.) Page 222, column 1, line 12: For deck, read deck*, and for foot note, insert: * See explanation, page 234. Page 223, column 1, line 9, insert: Baia de. Page 224, column 1, line 3 from bottom: For Carpofero, read Garpdforo. Page 226, column 1, line 25: After p. insert 206. Page 228, column 1, line 4 from bottom, add: (See p. 222.) Page 236, column 1, before the 9th line from bottom insert: El Puerto de San Sebastian, Gabrillo. Johnson's Lee. (See p. 238.) Page 238, column 1, after line 22 insert : Fl Puerto de San Sebastian, Gabrillo. Johnson's Lee, latitude 33° 57 J^'. (See p. 236.) This is an anchorage just east of South Point, under the south-southeast shore of Santa Bosa Island, and the first shelter the vessel would reach after running through the San Miguel Passage. Anchorage in the narrow kelp field in seven fathoms of water. Pages 246, 247. After the last lines add: No. 71, Mar. 5-8, 1543; El Puerto de San Sebastian, F's Consort: Johnson's Lee, 33° 57^': Anchorage under the south-southeast shore of Santa Bosa Island. Page 247: In the column of Bemarks on line No. 64, for 3^, read 3. Page 249, column 1: In lines 5 and 6, delete, etc., and in Evans' (and Henshaw's), and insert: and Davidson's. Page 249, column 2: After Gabrillo, insert, Gavendisb 162. Page 250, column 1, lines 23 and 27, for Limancdurt, read Limantour. Page 250, column 1 : After line 50, insert, Johnson's Lee, 236, 238. Page 250, column 2: After line 28, insert, El Puerto de San Sebastian, 236, 238. Sam Feahoisco, Galifornia, May 22, 1888. Appendix No. 7—1886. AN EXAMINATION OF SOME OF THE EARLY VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION 0|i THE NORTHWEST COAST OF AMERICA, FROM 1539 TO 1603. By Prof. &EORGrE! D^-S^IDSON, A.. DOi., Ph.D. Assistant U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey. INTRODUCTION. During my work ou the Pacific coast of tbe United States since the spring of 1850 1 became deeply interested in the discoveries and explorations of the early Spanish navigators who had followed the coast from Oape San Lucas to Alaska. Part of my duty consisted in the determina- tion of the latitude and longitude of the headlands, islands, rocks, harbors, rivers, &c., and in the geographical reconnaissance of the shores from the Mexican boundary to the forty-ninth parallel. While in command of the surveying brig K. H. Fauntleroy, I entered (in addition to my regular duties) upon the self-imposed task of writing a Coast Pilot for California, Oregon, and Washington Territory, and I have nearly completed the fourth edition of that work. Very natu- rally, my early interest in the old explorations became intensified, and I made many special ex- aminations of the narratives , and their application to supposed localities. I think I have been able to reconcile many of the discrepancies of the old Spanish, English, American, and French navigators. Their inaccuracies arose principally from "constant" errors of their instruments, ignorance of the coast currents, errors of judgment in estimating distances, &c. Among the' Spanish discoverers, the meagerness of detailed descriptions, a failure to seize the salient points for the determining of their positions, the want of minute accuracy in most of their plans — some- times giving weight to general features and sometimes to details without distinction — and a lean- , ing to exaggerate certain discoveries and to completely overlook others, have much involved the locating of many of their landfalls, headlands, mountains, and streams. The minuteness of re- cord in Cook and Vancouver, of comparatively recent date, has enabled me to follow their tracks day by day and to correct their positions by personal knowledge of the localities described j. but whilst giving these great men the fullest credit for surveys unparalleled before or since (when all the attendant circumstances are considered), I cannot withhold my admiration for the indomita- ble courage and perseverance of the old Spanish navigators, who, in small, ill-conditioned, and ill- supplied vessels, with crews nearly destroyed by scurvy, fought their way to the wildest parts of the Alaskan coast almost regardless of season. "There were giants in the earth in those days." The records of such of these voyages as are published are too short to be of much more value than isolated statbments of what was done; and the inaccuracy of the observations for the deter- mination of the geographical positions has led many to judge that all were touched with the spirit of Maldonado, de Fonte, and de Fuca. But with the present knowledge of our coast it is possible to locate TJlloa; to track Cabrillo and Ferrelo in their discoveries in midwinter ; to place Drake under Cape Ferrelo and Point Eeyes, and to fix with certainty the most of Vizcaino's, positions. Later than 1603 I have not undertaken identification in this paper, except to incident- ally mention Father Taraval's visit to Point Eugeuio, and his landing upon Natividad and Cerros 156 UNITED STATES COAST A55^D GEODETIC SUEVEY. Islauds. I was particularly interested in the voyages of Cabrillo and Ferrelo, and I have endeavored to put myself in their places ; and understanding the seasons and the difficulties they encountered, I have tried to follow them day by day in their exciting discoveries. I have based my narrative of Cabrillo . upon the condensed and unsatisfying chapters in Herrera (B), and have corrected several mistakes and deciphered one or two obscure passages. Of the narrative supposed to embrace the whole voyage of Cabrillo and Ferrelo, I have freely used the translation made by Mr. Richard Stuart Evans as printed with introductory remarks by Mr. H. W. Henshaw (H), but in critical passages where important issues were involved I have examined the original (C) and made my own translations. Of the voyage of Ulloa, I have had recourse to the short narrative given in Burney and trans- lated from (A). Of the voyage by Drake, I have collated from the "English Hero" (D), and the "World Encompassed" (B), with reference to the Portus Novae Albionis in the margin of Hondius' map; and to this map I have reduced the Coast Survey chart of the vicinity of Drake's Bay to cor- respond in scale and in orientation, whereby I have identified his bay. In the voyage of Vizcaino I first trusted to the English translation of Yenegas' narrative, but I found it so uncertain in critical positions that I had recourse to the original (F) ; and I have used Vizcaino's chart of the coast exhibited in Burney, Part II of his series of volumes of Voyages and Discoveries (G). For details of some of the jjoints and anchorages south of Todos Santos Bay I have used the Coast Survey charts of 1874 and the descriptions of the " West Coast of Mexico, from the Northern Boundary," published by the Hydrographic Bureau of the United States Navy (I). To preserve accuracy and consistency of description on the coast north of Mexico, I have referred to the manuscript of the fourth edition of the " Coast Pilot of California, Oregon, and Washington" (J), and constantly to the charts of the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey. The full titles of these authorities are appended to this intro'd action with the reference letters. In order to present as clearly as practicable the descriptions of localities by the different navigators, I have drawn them up in three parallel columns, preserving in the case of Cabrillo and Ferrelo the whole of their narratives. My notes and remarks have been placed in another column. At the close I have added a condensed tabular statement of the names and positions of the seventy places mentioned by Cabrillo and Ferrelo and which I have identified. In the narratives I have occasionally added a note or condensed statement in brackets [ ]. In regard to the name " California," I extract the following note from tlie (California Coast Pilot already referred to : " The name California is first found in the worthless romance ' Las Sergas of Esplandian, the son of Amadis of Gaul, written by Garcia Ardonez de Montalvo, the translator of the Amadis. It was first printed in 1510, with editions in 1519, 1521, 1525, 1526 (two), 1575, 1587, and the recent reprint of 1857.* " The name appears in several passages, of which the following are given : " ' Know that, on the right band of the Indies, very near to the Terrestrial Paradise, there is an island called California, which was peopled with black women, without any men among them, because they were accustomed to live after the fashion of Amazons. " ' In this island called California are many Griffins, on account of the great savageness of the country and the immense quantity of wild game found there. " 'Now in the time that those great men of the Pagans sailed (against Constantinople) with those great fleets of which I have told you, there reigned in this land of California a Queen, large of body, very beautiful, in the prime of her years, &c. " ' The name California next occurs in the memoirs of the 'Conquistador, Bernal Diaz del Cas- tillo, who served with Cortes in the conquest of Mexico. He writes that "Cortes again set sail from Santa Cruz and discovered the coast of California." Here Cortes remained for some time, disheartened at the want of success of his various expeditions. The viceroy, Mendoza, dispatched * The full title of the book is " Las Sergas del Mey Esforxado Cabalero Esplandian hijo del excelente re Amadis de Gaula." _ UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. 157 a vessel under the command of Ulloa with letters to Cortes. " TJUoa had a most favorable voyage and soon arrived in the harbor where Cortes lay at anchor. The letters of his wife and those of his children, and of the viceroy, had so touch effect upon him that he gave the command of his vessel to Ulloa, embarked for Acapulco, and when he had arrived there hastened to Quanhuahuac, where his wife resided. * * * Shortly after, also, the troops arrived which had been left behind in California." " ' After a few months' repose Cortes sent out a more considerable expedition, under command of Ulloa. " This armamentleft the harbor de la Kavidad in the month of June of one thousand five hundred and thirty, and so many years— I forget the exact year." " The California referred to above is thepeninsula of that name, generally known asLowerCali- fornia, and the date 1535. They are the only times in which Diaz uses the name, (Cap. C. C.) " In 1539 Francisco de Ulloa determined Lower California to be a peninsula. This fact appears to have been subsequently forgotten, for it was called La Islade Las Oarolinas, in honor of Charles 11 of Spain, and late in the last century the charts .continued to delineate it as a great island parallel to the continental coast. "The name California was gradually used to designate the region from the Gulf of California to the mythical " Straits of Aniau," (which were very probably Bering Straits). "The country was called Few Albion by Sir Erancis Drake in 1579. "In recent times the region north of San Diego was called Alta California, and that to the south Baja California.' " I cheerfully express my thanks to John T. Doyle, esq., aud to H. H. Bancroft, esq., of San Francisco, for courtesies extended iu ray examination of some of the older authorities ; and to E. J. Molera, esq., for assistance in rendering several old Spanish idiomatic phrases. The principal works which I have consulted are — (A) Tllloa. — There is no Spanish record or book of his explorations. The Italian account is iu the Jihird volume of the Navigations and Voyages of Gio. Battista Eamusio, pp. 339-354, published in Venice in 1865. It is published in English, in Hakluy t, Voyages III, pp. 397-424. The title is: Ulloa. Eelatione della Scoprimento che uel nome di Dio va a far 1' armata dell' illustrissimo Fernando Cortese, Marchese di Valle con tri Naui, chiamata 1' una Santa Agata, di Grandezza di dugento quaranta botto, 1' altra, la Trinita, di grandezza di settanta e la terza San Tomaso, di quarata, dellaquale armata su Capitano il molto Magniflco Caualiero Francesco di VLLOA habita- tor della citta di Merida. (B) Gdbrillo. — Historia General de los Hechos de los Castellauos en las Islas y Tierra Firme del Mar Oceano, Escrita por Antonio de Herrera Coronista Mayor de Su Magestad de las Indias y Coronista de Castilla y Leon Decada Setima al Eey Nuestro SerLor En Madrid en la OfBcina Eeal de Nicolas Eodriguez Franco 1730. Con Privilegio de Su Majestad. Libro Quiuto Oa]). 111. Del viaje que hicieron dos Navios, que embio Don Antonio de Men- do§a a descubrir la Costa de la Mar del Sur, desde Nueva-Espaiia. Cap. IV. Que prosigue el descubrimieuto de los dos Navios de Don Antonio de Mendoga por la Mar del Stid. (Cj Ferrelo. — Collecion de varios documentos Para la" Historia de la Florida y tierras adyacentes. Largas en fazafias 6 cortos en descrebillas. Tomo I. En la casa de Trilbner y Oompaiiia. Num. 60, Paternoster Eow, Londres. (Se han tirado 500 Ejamplases por Jos6 Eodriguez, Madrid, Ano de 1857, p. 173. Mar del Sur. 1542. Eelaciou, 6 diario, de la Navegacion que hizo Juan Eodriguez Cabrillo con dos Navios, al descubrimieuto del paso del Mar del Sur al Nortes desde 27 de Junio de 1542 que Salio del puerto de Navidad, hasta 14 de Abril del Siguiente ario que se restituy6 a 61, naviendo Uegado hasta el altura de 44 grados, con la descripcion de la Costa, puertos, ensanadas, 6 islas que reconoci6 y sus distancias, en la extension de toda aquella costa. (D) DraTce. — The English Hero : or. Sir Francis Drake revived. Being a full account of the dangerous Voyages, admirable Adventures, notable Discoveries, and magnanimous Athievements, of that valiant and renowned Commander. I. His Voyages in 1572, to Nombre de Dios in the West Indies, where they saw a Pile of silver Bars nearly 70 Feet long, 10 Feet broad, and 12 Feet high. II. His encompassing the whole World in 1577, which he performed in two Years, and ten Months, gaining a vast quantity of Gold and Silver. III. His vdyage into America in 1585, and taking the towns of St. lago, St. Domingo, Carthagena, and St. Augustine. Also his worthy 158 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEOI^ETIC SURVEY. actions when Vice Admiral of England in the Spanish Invasion, 1588. IV. His last voyage in those Conntries, in 1595, with the manner of his Death and Burial. Eecommeuded to the Imitation of all heroic Spirits. Enlarged and reduced into Chapters with Contents. ByE. B. The twelfth Edition. Dublin: Prictcd for G. Golding at the King's Head in High-street, 1739. (E) Drake. — The World Encompassed by Sir Francis Drake, Being his next voyage to that to Nombre de Dios. Collated with an Unpublished Manuscript of Francis Fletcher, Chaplain to the Expedition ; with appendices illustrative of the same Voyage, and Introduction, by W. S. Vaux Esq. M. A., London : Printed for the Hakluyt Society, M.D.CCCLIV. (P) Venegas. — Noticia de la California, y de su conquista temporal y espiritual hasta el tiempo presenti, sacada de la Flistoria Manuscrita, formada en Mexico aiio de 1739, por el Padre Miguel Venegas, de la Compania de Jesus : y de otras Noticias, y Relationes antiguas, y modernas : Ana- dida de Algunos mapas particulares j y uno general de la America Septentrional, Assia Oriental, y Mar del Sur intermedio, formados sobre las Memorias mas recientes, y exactas, que se publican jnstamente: dedicada al EeyNtro. Senor por la Provincia de Nueva-Espana, de la Compaflia de Jesus. Tomo Tercero. Con licencia En Madrid : En la Imprenta de la Viceda de Manual Fer- nandez, y del Supremo Consejo de la Inquisicion, Afio de M.DCC.LVII. (G) Burney.—A Chronological History of the Voyages and Discoveries in the South Sea or Pacific Ocean. Part I. Commencing with an account of the earliest discovery of that Sea by Europeans, and terminating with the Voyage of Sir Francis Drake, in 1579. Illustrated with Charts by James Burney, Captain in the Eoyal Navy, London : printed by Luke Hansand, near Lincoln's- lun-Fields, and sold by C. and W. Nicbol, Bookseller to His Majesty, Pall Mall; G. and J. Eobin- son, Paternoster Eow; J. Eobson, New Bond Street; Mem's Gate; and Cadell and Davis, in the Strand, 1803. (H) Engineer Department U. 8. Army.— Report upon United States Geographical Surveys west of the one hundredth meridian, in charge of First Lieutenant Geo. M. Wheeler, Corps of Engineers, U. S. Army, under the direction of Brig. General A. A. Humphreys, Chief of Engi- neers, U. S. Army. Published by authority of the Honorable Secretary of War, in accordance with acts of Congress of June 23d, 1874, and February 15th, 1875, in several volumes, accompanied by one topographical and one geological atlas. Vol. VII. Arcbseology, Washington : Government Printing Office, 1879. (Appendix to Part I, Vol. VII, pp. 292-314.) (I) No. 56 U. S. EydrograpMc Office— Bureau of Navigation. The West Coast of Mexico, from the Boundary Line between the United States and Mexico to Cape Corrientes, including the Gulf of California. Wfishington : Government Printing Office. 1880. (J) United States Coaat and Geodetic Survey, F. M. Thorn, Superintendent. Pacific Coast Coast Pilot of California, Oregon, and Washington. Fourth edition: By George Davidson Assistant. 1886. [Yet in manuscript, August, 1886.] ' The work upon this investigation has been done at intervals, independently of the regular duties of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, and has therefore been a long time in hand. San Francisco, Cal,, August, 1880. GEOEGE DAVIDSON. 160 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. FEREELO. The Port of Navidad is in latitude 19° 13' N. and twenty miles west-northwest from the harbor of Mansa- nilla. El Cabo de Corrientes, in 20i°, CabriUo. Latitude 20° 25' : correction to CabriUo, —0° 05' if he observed the latitude, which I very much doubt. ' Thirty leagues, by the charts. La Bahia de Santa Cruz, UUoa. El Puerto de la Cruz, 24° and "more," CabriUo. El Puerto del Marques del Valle. (The Emperor had given Cortes the title of Marques del Valle del Qnaxaco in 1528.) This port is probably the cove under Cape Pulmo. The Point of California "in 24° and more," is quite likely the present Cape Pulmo which is the easternmost land of the peninsula of Lower California, and placed in latitude 23° 23', so that the correction to CabriUo woiild be — 0° 37' "and more." Hence to Cape San Lucas fol- lowing the coast line the distance is 44 geographical miles. The cliffs at Cape Pulmo are 410 feet above the sea, and within a mile the hiU rises to 850 feet with a low neck or valley behind it, so that from the northward or southward this hill presents a notable feature. Inside of this the mountains eight miles westwardly rise to 2,885 feet, while Miraflores of the Sierra la Victoria, 27 miles from the gulf shore, rises to 6,200 feet elevation : the former is visible at 62 miles distance, the latter at 91 miles. On the south side of Cape Pulmo there is a nice cove three-quarters of a mile deep where anchorage may be had in ten fathoms within two hundred yards of the beach. Fresh water is found in the arroyo which opens on the cove. This bay is probably the Puerto del Marques del Valle where one of Cortes ships put in during the expedition of 1534, and where Ximenes the Captain (who had muti- nied as pUot) was killed. The bay of Santa Cruz was visited by Cortes himself in 1536. In 1596 El General Vizcaino, under orders of Don Gaspar de Zuniga Conde de Monte-Rey, visited the eastern shore of the southern end of the Peninsula of California and remained eight days at the Puerto de San Sebastian, but abandoned it for a more convenient place, and sailing further they came to the Puerto de la Paz. This Puerto de Santa Cruz may therefore be reasonably considered the same as that of the Marqnesdel Valle. Juan Rodriguez set sail from the Puerto de Navidad to discover the coast of New Spain on the 27th day of June, 1542. He' was delayed from the Puerto de Navidad to Cabo Corrientes a day and a night, forty leagues, with a southeast wind. From Wednesda.y to the following Thursday they held their course along the coast thirty-five leagues. Sunday, the secoud day of July, they had sight of California : they were delayed in crossing over, by the weather, which was not very favorable, almost four days ; they anchored the following Monday, on the third of the same, off the Point of California, and were here two days, and from this place UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. IGl CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. Don Antonio de Mouilo9a took more interest in mari- time matters, for notwithstanding tlie vessels lie had sent to discover that part of the coast of New Spain, to- wards the South, had suffered a great deal, he sought, by every . means, to know what there was further on, and for that purpose he ordered two vessels to be fitted out, and appointed for Captain of them Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese, a person very conversant with the matters of the sea. Oue of the vessels was named the San Salvador, which was the flagship, and the other La Victoria ; there was for chief pilot Bartolomfe Ferrer, and also for jiilot Bar- tolom& Fernandez ; and for masters Antonio Carrera, and S. Eemo. These vessels being quickly made ready, they sailed from the Puerto de Navidad, on the twenty-seventh of June, of the present year, [1542,] at noon, and arrived early iu the morning at Cabo do Corrientes in twenty degrees and a half. Friday, ou the 30th, running along the coast, they found themselves in twenty and two degrees, and a third. Sunday, on the second of July, they found themselves iu twenty aud four degrees and more, and recognized the Puerto del Marquez del Valle, which they called de !ii Crnz, which is the Coast of California. VIZCAINO. [Vizcaino, with his three vessels and a long boat, left Puerto de la Navidad outhe twenty-second of May 1602; continuing his course with adverse winds nearly to Cape Corrientes where he arrived on the twenty-sixth; and after a survey of that vicinity he proceeded along the Coast to Mazatlan, where he arrived June second.] ' ' On the eighteenth of October, they reached the bay ct Santa Cruz. October twenty ninth, [1539], TJlloa sailed with the Santa Agueda aud the Trinidad", from the bay of Santa Cruz, to follow, as before, the trend of the coast : but being impeded by contrary winds, he had advanced on the tenth of November not more than fifty-four leagues from the bay of Santa Cruz towards the south and south- west." , ' VIZCAINO. [From Wednesday to the following Thursday they held their course along the coast of New Spain thirty-five leagues. ] "Sunday, on the second day of July, they had, sight of California : they were delayed in crossing over [the Gulf of California] by the weather, which was not very favor- able, almost four days ; they anchored the following Mon- day, on the third of the same month, off the Point of Cali- tbrnia, and were here two days." H. Ex. 40- 162 UNII'BD STATES COAST AND CVEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. El Puerto de San Lucas, " They say it is iu latitude 23°," Ferrelo : La Baiiia de San Bernabfe, Vizcaino : San Lucas Bay; latitude 2-Z° 52'. Correction toFerrelo, — 0° 08'. Either Ferrelo obtained the latitude at second authoritj-, or his instrument was badly deranged thereafter, as well as at Santa Cruz ; I thint the former. It was in this harbor of San Lucas that the English navigator Cavendish, in 1587, captured, plundered, and burnt the Spanish galleon Santa Ana from the Philippines. This name suggests this bay as that where the Mexican asti'onomers observed the Transit of Venus in 1769, when the French expedition under Auteroche de la Chappe oc- cupied a station at Sau Joso del Cabo, a few miles east- wardly, which I recovered in 1873. San Lucas Bay a;ffords good anchorage and shelter from the northwest and southwest winds, but it is open to the sea from the south to the east, rendering it exceedingly unsafe during the summer and autumn, or wet season, when the gales are very frec^n-eut and violent. The best anchorage is in six or seven fathoms of water, a quarter of a mile from the beach. Wood and water are obtained here. Vizcaino gives a full description of the natives, the fresh-water lake, the fishes, and the productions of the land. FERRELO. they reached the Puerto do San~ Lucas the following Thurada,y, and took in water; they saw these days no Indians: they say Cdizen] that this port is in twenty- three degrees^ and from the point to the port it is clear and soundable, and the land is bare and rugged. La Punta de la Trinidad-. Cabrillo; Ferrelo iu 25°. This is undoubtedly Cape Tosco, in latitude 24° 17'. Correction to Cabrillo and Ferrelo,— 0° 43'. From Cape San Lucas to Cape Tosco, a distance of 130 miles, or 43 leagues, there iu no prominent point or inden- tation of the coast line, except immediately under the latter cape. The shore is marked by long lines of dreary sand dunes, except near Cape Falso and half way hence to Cape Tosco, where there is a "low, rocky point called the Point del Marques. A reef of rocks extends a short distance out from it, and on either side near the coast are low sandy bluffs." " Vessels-may anchor anywhere along this part of the coast in fine weather iu from 8 to 10 fathoms, a mile or two from the beach. The soundings are regular, and there are no hidden dangers. The beach is generally steep, and the breakers close to it." Immediately behind this point the land rises to "Las Mesas," or table-lands, of GOO feet elevation. ,To the southeastward stretches a great chain of mountains, reaching Cape San Lucas, and ranging from 4,000 to 6,200 feet elevation; and visible at a distance of ninety-one miles. The point is laid down on the U. S. Coast Survey chart iu latitude 23° 56' north, and the indications are against any anchorage when the northwest winds are blowincf- although Ulloa anchored eight or ten leagues to the south- east of Puerto Trinidad. Vizcaino met with strong cur- rents from the northwest along this stretch of coast. There must be some omission in Ferrelo's narrative wherein he gives the distance of five leagues from Cape San Lucas to Cape Tosco. .The actual distance is 43 leagues along the coast. His estimates are so va which was the fourth time (p. 46)." * ULLOA. [On the first of December, they anchored near the coast, and boaits went to procure water; in doing which, they were attacked by the natives. Captain Ulloa and some others were wounded, not dangerously,] " and Berecillo, their best mastiff dog, (they had two others) was wounded with three arrows, and would no more return to the charge." [Near this watering place they found .a hay or port, with three fathoms depth at the entrance, and deeper water within. No latitude is mentioned.] VIZCAINO. "And coming near the shore on the 8th of the mouth,, facing some highlands, they were becalmed, that in a. week they did not gain a single league ; and on this ac~ count they gave that high land the name Sierra del Enfado, or Mount Tiresome (p. 47)." [On his chart Vizcaino simply says "This coast is free- ijom dangers" half way to Cape Tosco, and hence to. Tosco "low beaches." The chart has a weak point neat- the present Point del Marquis.] 16i UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. DAVIDSON. no supposition can fairly be matle as to wliat he intended to say. La Puuta de la Trinidad, 25°, C'aljrillo. El Puerto de la Trinidad, 25°, Ferrelo. La Bahia de San Abad, Ulloa. La Bahla enganosa de Santa Marina, Vizcaino (p. 51). El Puerto del Marqufes, 6 de Santiago of Vizcaino (p. 52). La Bahia de Santa Marina, Vizcaino's chart. ' Salita Marina Bay, in latitude 24° 20'. Santa Margarita Island. It is twenty-two miles long, about five miles broad at the broadest place, and rises in barren peaks to 1,900 feet elevation. El Puerto de San Pedro, 25i°, Ferrelo. El Puerto de la Magdalena, Vizcaino (p. 49). La Bahia 6 Puerto de la Magdalena, Vizcaino, pages 50, 52, and chart. Magdalena Bay is in latitude 24° ,32' ; correction to Ferrelo —0° 58'. This large and spacious bay with a fine entrance three miles wide, with very deep water and high headlands, is well protected by great mountain barriers from the Pa- cific Ocean winds. The magnificent sheet of water is thirty-five miles long by twelve miles broad, but is divided by a narrow throat into Magdalena Bay proper on the north, and Almega Bay on the south ; the latter again opening southward into Santa Marina Bay. The depth of water in the two main bays is over ten fathoms. From the northern part of Magdalena Bay there is connection with a long line of lagoona running for sixty miles northward, and lying just inside the coast sand dunes. These lagoons have several openings to the sea, through the dunes, and were formerly the resort of innumerable whales. FEEEELO Wednesday, on th6 twelfth day of said month, they departed from this- place. In Puerto de la Trinidad, an island forms the port which is here, and it is a. good port, sheltered from the. west-northwest winds ; the port of the island is at the head of the island on the southeast side, and the port is clear and soundable ; it has neither wood nor water; the island has ten leagues of length and two leagues of breadtli ; they anchored that night." They departed the Thursday following, aod passed the Puerto de San Pedro, which is in twenty-five and a half degrees; in this port there is no water nor wood; its direction is southeast ; it has a good shelter from the west winds ; El Morro Eedondo, Vizcaino's chart. Cape Eedondo, in latitude 24° 32'. The northern point of the entrance to Magdalena Bay is Entrada Point. La Bahia de San Martin, Ferrelo. La Bahia de Santa Marta, Vizcaino's chart. Santa Maria Bay, latitude 24° 44'. This bay is four leagues northwestward from the en- trance to Magdalena Bay, and lies broad open to the southwestward. It is eight miles between the northwest and southeast points of the entrance, and it is four and a half miles deep towards the northeast. The soundings decrease regularly from twenty fathoms to three fathoms at the sandy beach, which is backed by sand dunes. There are no dangers except a line of rooks extendino half a mile from Cape Lazaro, which forms the northwest point. Inside the bay, on the east side of Cape Lazaro, there is good anchorage in six fathoms of water over sandy bottom. The southeast point of entrance to the bav is Cape Corso. When Cabrillo had reached El Puerto de la Magdalena or Peqnena, in latitude 27° by his reckoning, ho says "This puerto is forty leagues from the bay of San Martin;" this would put it approximately in his latitude of 25° ; but he makes no mention of such a port in his narrative when he was sailing past that part of the coast; although he had just lefr. Santa Marina Bay and UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. 165 "Eight or ten leagues farther to the Northwest, they came to some inlets like passages between islands, into one of -which they sailed, and found a good harbor entirely en- closed with land, which they named Bahia de San Abad. The latitude is not given. In this port they took a sup- ply of -water, and at this part of the coast they had intercourse wit^ the natives, who exchanged pearl shells and feathers for beads and other trinkets ; but this traffic was conducted with much caution and distrust, and their separation was not friendly." "(P. 49.) Vizcaino's flagship entered the oay outhe20tn of July, 1602,buther consort did not on account of the fogs. The next day some soldiers ascended the m'ountain and saw her consort sailing northward. The Capitana being thus alone on Santa Magdalena's day, the father Commis- sary and Father Tomas said mass ashore ; and on account of this festival the bay was named La Bahia, or Puerto de Magdalena ; it is very spacious, with several safe coves and anchoring places; has two entrances, and through it a wide arm of the sea runs up into the coun- try. * * * (P. 50.) The frigate subsequently entered the bay, joined the Capitana, and both left in company (p. 51)"." [Vizcaino's chart gives his anchorage iu the Bay, the soundings, and the eastern passage to Santa Marina Bay. He designates it as La Bahia de la Magdalena ; and the southern point of the entrance is named Morro Eedondo. ] [About five miles beyond Magdalena Bay ho dis- covered the entrance to -what appeared a very dangerous bay, but it had been errfered by the Almiranta and is named on the chart La Bahia de Sta. Marta.] 166 CriSriTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUKVEY. DAVIDSON. looked into the present Magdaleua Bay. . As there is uo other port immediately north of Magdalena Bay, it is reasonable to assume that La Bahia de Sau Martin anxl Santa Maria Bay are the same ports. FEEEELO. La Pnnta de Sau Lazaro, Vizcaino's chart. Cape San Lazaro, in latitude 24° 48'. _ From Cape San Lazaro the coast line takes a decided change of direction from west-northwest to north (mag- netic), and also changes from the high mountainous range from Cape Tosco to Cape San Lazaro, to one that is low, sandy, and only broken by the entrance to great lagoons that stretch sixty miles northward from Magdalena Bay. It is very probable that the receding of this low shore ■caused Ferrelo to designate it the head of a large ense- :nada or gulf; or else that he saw the great lagoons from ithe mast-head ; in either case they would head in about latitude 24° 50' or 25° 00'. they continued sailing along the coast, which forms a large gulf, the head of which is in 'twenty-six degrees ; the land is low and covered with sand dunes, the coast white and clear ; they proceeded, sailing along the coast with fair winds La Bahia de San Christoval, Vizcaino. In this ense- nada is the entrance to the Boca de San Domingo, in lati- tude 25° 21'. It is three-quarters of a mile wide, with a shoal exten ding a mile oif the entrance. There is a depth of seven and a half feet of water upon it at high tide. The southern end of the lagoon heads in Magdalena Bay, and also stretches northward thirty miles. A very low country lies to the eastwUrd of it. El Puerto de la Magdalena, 27°, Cabrillo and Ferrelo. Pequeiia Bay, in latitude 26° 14'. Correction to Cab- rillo and Ferrelo, — 0° 46'. The distance from Santa Maria Bay is only thirty leagues. This is a bay formed by an indentation of the coast, one and a half miles to the northward. The rocky point on the west is composed ot volcanic bluifs thirty feet high, with a hill eighty-five feet high. The country is low, with sand dunes and lagoons farther in shore. Vessels find shelter from the northwesters by anchor- ing in six fathoms of water one mile northeastward from the point. There is a large estero behind the point, but in some seasons it has no opening to the sea. .Vizcaino has a line of soundings along the shore from Cape Lazaro nearly to Point Abreojos, ranging from thirty to fifteen fathoms of water. And he has two in- dentations corresponding very nearly in i)ositiou to Pe- quefia Bay and the open roadstead under Point San Do- mingo. His chart says this is a "broken, ragged coast," and inland " moantainous." Both statements are true. The charts of 1874 named the point forming Pequeua Bay, San Domingo; but on the latest charts it has no name, and San Domingo is transferred to the point thir- teen miles to the west-northwest. as far as twenty-seven degrees, and Wednesday, on the nineteenth of the said month, they landed at a port which they discovered, and going on shore they found a path used by Indians, and followed it the distance of an arquebuse shot, wh6re they found a spring of water; the land is level withiu and bare and very dry ; they gave it the name of Puerto de la Mada- ena ; 'it is forty leagues from the Bay of San Martin to this port. La Punta de Santa Catalina, Ferrelo. San Domingo Point, of the latest charts ; it is in lati- tude 26° 19', and thirteen miles west-northwest from Pe- quena Bay. ThefollowlngThursday, on the twentieth of this month, they departed from this port and proceeded, sailing along the coast with contrary winds, and about six leagues from that place they found an anchorage behind UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. 167 Wednesday, on the nineteenth, they discovered' a port which is of good protection, which they called La Mag- dalena, in twenty-seven degrees, and here they took in water. [On Vizcaino's chart he names the head which forms the northwest point of Santa Maria Bay, La Pnnta de San Lazaro.] "The whole coast beyond this cape is level and pleas- ant ; and has only a few mountains in the inland coun- try." " On the 30th of July, they had sight of a bay, which seemed to be formed there by the issue of a river. * * * (P. 52. ) There were breakers at the entrance. * * * This place or gnlf had been surveyed by the Almiranta. It was named the Bahia de San Christoval, * * * be- cause it was surveyed on the anniversary of that saiut.' (P. 53.) [The chart designates it as a "low coast."] 168 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVKY. DAVIDSON. Sau Domingo Point is a remarkable perpendicular rocky cHfif of dark color, rising; one hundred and seventy- five feet above tbe sea. The cliffs extend for several miles east and west of the Point. A short reef stretches out from the Point in a southwesterly direction. Anchor- age may be had to the eastward of the Point, under its lee, in five or six fathoms of water, half a mile from the shore, where a vessel will find some protection from the prevailing wind. To the northwestward of this Point a long line of la- goons lies just inside the sand dunes. Behind the lagoons the land is low and sandy and then rises gently to low table-lands. The mountains are from twenty to thirty miles inland. El Puerto de Santiago, 27^°, Ferrelo. La BaMa de las Ballenas, Vizcaino. Balleuas Bay, latitude 26° 45'. San Iguacio Lagoon, under Abredjos Point, in latitude 26° 42'; correction to Ferrelo, — 0° 45'. It is 76 miles from Pequena Bay, and 54 miles from San Domingo Point. The whole bight east and southeast of Abre<5jos Point, for fifty miles, is bordered by low sandy shores, behind which stretch immense lagoons, which were the former haunts of thehumpbackwhale. The San Ignacio Lagoon, seventeen miles east-northeast from Abre6jos Point, pene- trates twenty miles northward and has a channel that admitted whaling vessels (1854). Between this lagoon and AbreCijos Point there is another large lagoon not named. From Ignacio Bay to San Domingo Point there is the long line of narrow lagoons already mentioned. The early navigators may very readily have imagined an extensive and deep bay lying well to the eastward of Point Abredjos, and stretching eastward and northward from and forming part of the Puerto Santiago. The highlands for thirty or forty miles retreat inland behind the San Ignacio Lagoon or Puerto. The open bay just inside Abreojos Point is named Ballenas Bay ; it is sixteen miles broad, east and west, and seven miles deep, north and south. The depth of water in it ranges from twenty fathoms to three fathoms close under the beach. The Point affords good protection from the prevailing winds of summer. An anchorage is had in six to seven fathoms of water over sandy bottom. With strong winds a large swell rolls in, causing a heavy surf on the beach. The Point itself is low and sandy, with a long narrow lagoon stretching to the west-northwest. There is a barren hill 277 feet high three miles inside the Point. On its southeast side there is a pond with brackish water in it during the dry season. A ridge running north- northwest from the Point rises to. mountains in twenty miles. La Punta de Santiago, Ferrelo. Abre6jos Point. Habre Ojo (Rocks), "Keep your eye open", 27^° and and "more," Ferrelo. The Abredjos Rocks, latitude 26° 46'. Correction to Ferrelo, — 0° 44' " and more. Whale Rock. These dangers lie three miles west-southwest from Abre6jos Point, and are about two miles in extent. One of them. Whale Rock, is four feet above water ; the rest FERRELO. a point, which they called Punta de Santa Catalina, and so they continued sailing along the coast. and the Tuesday following, on the twenty-fifth of the said month of July, they discovered a large bay in twenty- seven and a half degrees; they made very little progress these days on account of the bad weather ; they dropped anchor in this port and gave it the name of Puerto de Santiago; it is distant from Puerto de Madalena twenty- three leagues; there are from Punta de Santiago for five leagues some very dangerous, shoals and rooks, and they do not appear except when the sea breaks upon them ; they are one league from the land, and in a little over twenty- seven and a half degrees ; they are called Habro Ojo. UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. 169 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. "And the same night [July 30th] (p. 53), they continued their voyage until they came to the Bahia de las Bal- lenas; -when approaching it, '.'at a considerable distance they saw a large bay, ' » » (p. 54), but on approach- ing, it -was found to be as it were intercepted bfshoalB. * * This bay [Ensenada] had been surveyed by the Almiranta, who gave it the name of Bahia de Ballenas on account of the multitudes of that large fish they saw there." They could not land for two days. The country is quite populous and the Indians peaceable. [Vizcaino's chart exhibits this great bight east of Ab- refijos Point, with a long barrier of sand through it as if guarding the lagoons behind it. In front of this barrier is the legend "Arrecifes."] [Vizcaino's chart has the sunken rocks off the point named "Abreojos;" and he evidently anchored under the point as his anchor denotes.] H. Ex. 40 22 170 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEl, DAVIDSON. are sunken. The distance around them and the danger just oif the point is eight or nine miles. La Bahi.a de San Hipolito, Vizcaino's chart. San Hipolito Bay, latitude 36° 58'. This open bay is formed by the indentation of tie coast -line east of Point San Hipolito. The eastern shore runs north for three miles and then sweeps to the eastward and southeastward for ten miles. Good anchorage may he had under the lee of the Point in iive to seven fathoms of water over a sandy bottom, at half a mile from the low shore. San Hipolito Point is quite low, and composed of black root with barren sand hills fifty to one hundred feet high, rising a short distance from it. There is. a sandy shoal extending Qver a mile from the Point. A remarkable table-shaped mountain, of 1,227 feet ele- vation, lies five and a half miles north (magnetic) from the Point. Behind this rise higher mountains, three thousand' feet in elevation. Sierra de los Siete lufautea, Vizoaluo. These seven peaks are in the mountain range, lying between Abre6jos Point and San Eoque Island, and about fifteen miles inland. They are not recognized ou any of the charts to date. The range reaches au elevation of 3,400 feet. FEEBELO Punta y Pnerto de Santa Ana, 28°, Ferrelo. Asuncion Point, latitude 27° 07' , Correction to Fer- relo,— 0° 53'. It is forty-seven miles in a straight line from Abre6jos Point. It is a low, sharp, bluif Point, with a cone-shaped hil- lock about seventy-five feet high at its outer extremity, and moderately hig^i hills a short distance inland. Asuncion Island. Sau Roque Island. These are the islands discovered by Ulloa, but not then named; nor were they named by Cabrillo. Laslslas de San Eoque, Vizcaino iu the Almirauta. La Isla de la AssumpoioO, by the Capitaua; this is the first or southern islet. La" Isla de San Eoque, Vizcaino. They are both named ou his chart, with an anchorage under each. Asuncion Island lies a little more than three-quarters of a mile to the south-south east of Asuncion Point, and ■ is placed in latitude 27° 06'. It is three-quarters of a mile long, and less than a quarter of a mile wide ; of sand- stone formation, and entirely barren ; towards its south- ern end some hills reach an altitude of one hundred feet. The Island of San Eoque is a rugged rock, one mile long east and west, less than half a mile wide at its broadest part, and about forty feet above the sea. It lies in the Middle of Sau Eoque Bay, about two miles from the shore, and has dangers off its eastern extremity. It is iu latitude 27° 08|', and is twenty-five miles from Point San Hipolito, and six miles from Asuncion Island. They proceeded sailing on the same course along the coast, as far as twenty -eight degrees, and there anchored under shelter of a point. Here are groves of trees which they had not seen from the Point of California; it is from this point' to Pnerto de Santiago at the northwest point twenty-three leagues. There are high and broken ridges with some woodland. We gave it the Hame of Santo. Ana ; It has an islet about a league from the land. UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 171 CABEILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. [Vizoaiuo's oliart locatesabayaboat half way between the Abre6jos and Asuncion Island ; he designates it as la Bahla de San Hipolito (p. 56). They sailed up it, and came to an anchor ; but some soldiers being sent ashore in search of wood and water, they -found the country everywhere extremely barren, and therefore re- turned on board (p. 56).] "Midway between the bay of Ballenas and the Islands of San Eoque there is a high Sierra from which project seven high and distinct x>eak8 in line, and which have been named de las Siete Infantes [the seven Infants] (P- 56). "Almost the whole mouth of December [1539] the winds blew from Ihe northwest, in which direction the coast was found to coutiuuo. At times they advanced a little, but at. other times they were tkiven back. The first of January [1540] they arrived in sight of two small islands near the mainlaud ; VIZCAINO. [Vizcaino in the Almirauta was separated from the Capitana and Fragata, and discovered the Islas de San Eoqiie (p. 56-57). The Capitana coasting under the same shores reached the first island on the evening of the Assumpcion (August 5th) and gave it the name Isla de la Assnmpcion; the other island was two leagues further on, to which he sailed, and under which he anchored.] "The island is of middling size, the soil sandy and gravelly, and covered with sea gulls. In some of the coves there are infinite numbers of sea wolves." This island was named Isla de San Roque (p. 5l()- 172 UIsriTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUKVEY. DAVIDSON. El Puerto Fondo, Ferrelo. Table Head Cove or San Pablo Bay, in latitude 27° 11', and about ten miles from Asuncion Point. It is an open bay about one and a half miles deep, formed by an in- dentation in the face of Table Head between the points named San Roctue and San Pablo. It is apparently free from all hidden dangers, and affords good anchorage iu from ten to fifteen fathoms of water, at about three-quar- ters of a mile from the shore. The great headland, embracing Asuncion Point, San Eoque Point, and San Pablo Point, known on our charts as Table Head, has hills 560 to 800 feet elevation, rising directly from the water; and the mountains reach 1,800 feet in six miles inland, and 3,400 feet in fifteen miles. It is the commencement of a very high and mountainous coast line hence to Point San Eugenio. They anchored iu the open bight eight miles east of the Morro Hermoso. and now named the Bay of San Cristoval, but without any claim to being reckoned a bay, for it is twenty-three miles broad aud oulj' five miles deep . El Puerto de San Pedro Viucula, in 2&J°, " and a little more," Ferrelo. El Puerto de San Bartolomfe, Vizcaino. Port Sau Bartolomfe, in latitude 27° 39' ; correction to Ferrelo,— 0° 55'. The distance from Table Head Cove "is eleven and a half leagues in a direct line. "Port San Bartolomfe is the best harbor on the west coast of Lower California between San Diego and Mag- dalena Bays. It is nearly circular in its general form, aud is about two and a half miles in diameter." " Ves- sels may anchor anywhere in the bay." " The soundings are very regular, and the Ijottom sand." FERRELO. Thursday, on the twcnty-seveuth of the same mouth, they departedfrom said Puerto de Santa Ana, and dropped anchor about six leagues from that place in a port which they named Puerto Fondo, on account of the great depth which it had, as near the land it had thirty fathoms; it is clear ; and they departed -the following day from the said port, and turned back three times to the said port with contrary winds, audthev were in the said nort until the following Mnnday. Monday, ou the thirty-first of the same month, they departed from the aforesaid Puerto Fondo and an- chored-about eight leagues theuce that night, and the next day they departed on their voyage. Tuesday, on the first day of August, they left that [anchorage] place, aud they proceeded about ten leagues, where thoy anchored in a port to which they gave the name of San Pedro Vinoula; this port is in sight of the Isla de Zedros." This port is in twenty-eight and a half degrees, and more ; the land is high and rugged and bare ; from California to this place we have seen no Indian, El Morro Hermoso, Vizcaino. Morro Hermoso (The Beautiful Rook). It is in lati- tude 27° 30',' and lies twelve miles southeast of Port San Bartolomfe ?iud thirty-nine miles southeast from the island of Cerros. The seaward face of the Morro Hermoso is a bold, rocky clifi' rising abruptly from the sea to a hill 900 feet in height. Immediately behind it the mountain rises to 1,536 feet, with higher mountains a little further inland. " Beyond the lligh aud extensive table-lands of Point San Pablo there is a remarkable range of ijeaks from 2,000 to 3,000 feet elevation, and of variegated colors, corresponding well with Vizcaino's description." Four miles east of the Morro Hermoso there is a peak 2,232 feet high, aud only one mile from the shore. Ulloa, Cabrillo, aud Ferrelo do not mention the Morro Hermoso, although the last two were in the Bay of San Bartolomfe. Thirty-five miles broad off the coast, in this latitude, the deep plateau of the Pacific Ocean is reached at 2,3.55 fathoms. Island discovered, bat not named, by Ulloa. La Isla de San Esteban, Ferrelo. La Isla de la Natividad de Nuestra Senora, Vizcaino, in the Almiranta. Affegua (or Bird Island), Indian name, Taraval, 1734. Wednesday, on the second of the said month, they do- parted from this port, and the wind -was contrary, apd they proceeded beating ; they cast anchor under an island which is four leagues distant from the southeast side of the island of Zedros, and they named this island San UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 1 73 CABEILLO ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. "The Capitana and Fragata, not being hindered by the winds as the Almiranta was (p. 61), sailed into a good port, which they named de San Bartolomfe. It is three leagues before you reach the island of Cerros. ' ' * They found no water on shore, and the land was ex- tremely dry and sterile. And they found on the beach a resin which did not have a good odor, and which some supposed to be amber, because there were great numbers of whales there. Whatever it was there was enough to load a ship. As this port was discovered on the day of the San Bartolomfe Apostol, the twenty-fifth of August, it was so named ; and that night they sailed (p. 62). [The chart shows "a rugged coast, without trees." The bay is well indicated, and an anchorage laid down under the north shore, well inside. ] "(P. 60.) The Almiranta, prosecuting her voyage [northwestward from San Eoque Island], came in sight of a very lofty mountain, at the base of which the sea broke, and which was twelve leagues from Cerros Island, which they could not reach. Here, to double the point which the mountain makes, the Almiranta was more than eight days beating against the northwest winds, which were very strong. Every time they tacked they were within a stone's throw of the mountain and the mainland. This mountain has not a single herb or green thing, but it presents an appearance as if painted, and variegated with different colors, like fancy tapes and ribbons of every hue, so that it is a wonderful sight (p. 61). ' ' * Finally the weather cleared up a little, the sea went down, and they doubled the cape. When the Capitana and Fragata were in sight of La Sierra Pintada, they did not encounter the strong winds which bafifled the Almiranta." ULLOA. " On Monday, the 5th of Jan'.iary, 1540, having advanced since the first of the month thirty-tive leagues [from ^he Islands Asuncion and San Eoque], they came to two other islands, one of them much larger than the other, lying at some distance from the coast of the mainland. 174 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON: Natividad Island, iii latitude 27" 53', and its southern part is three leagues from Cerros Island. Natividad Island is about three and three-quarters miles long, northwest and southeast, and from half a mile to a mile wide, being broadest at its southeastern end. It rises to 502 feet elevation ; is hilly and barren, with mostly steep rooky shores surrounded by detached rocks and kelp. The passage between the island and Point Eugenio is nearly four miles wide. On the southeastern end cf the island there is a sand beach half a mile long, and vessels may anchor off this in ten fathoms of water among the kelp. But there are several dangers off this southern end of the island, such as Fl.at Rock on which the sea breaks continually. La Isla de los Cedros (Ulloa). La Isla. de Zedros, Ferrelo ; in 29°. La Isla de Gerros, Vizcaino (p. 58 et seq.) ; and the same on his chart. Amalgna (or Fog Island), Indian name ; Taraval, 1734. Cerros Island, latifcudeofthe southernmost point, 28°02'. Correction to Ferrelo, — 0° 58'. El Cabo de San Augustiu, Vizcaino. Cape San Augnstin. The change of name from Cedros to Cerros was quite natural, for Vizcaino says (p. 67), "Que la Isla de Cer- ros tendria de box treinta leguas, y en ella vieron grandes Pinares, y Cedros, en las Coronas, de los mas altos Cer- rps." ( That the island of Cerros is about thirty leagues in circuit, and on it we saw great pines and cedars on the summits of the highest mountains,) The island lies nearly north and south for twenty-one miles, with a broad base of nine miles at the southern, end, and an average breadth of four miles. It is of vol- canic origin, with numerous high peaks, the highest of which attains an elevation of 3,955 feet. In clear weather these peaks may be seen from a distance of sixty miles. They were probably seen by the explorers from the vicin- ity of Table Head. The eastern side of the island is a succession of- rocky ledges and ravines, with the land rising abruptly in sharp ridges and precipitous cliffs. The northern part of the island is formed by broken bluffs, and outlying rocks, A sharp peak, 1,761 feet high, with a crest of cedars, rises just back of this point. The western side has the same general character as the eastern, hut with more outlying rooks. Many of the crests of the western slopes of the mountains sustain ce- darssixty to seventy feet in height. The oTiaracter of the southern shore is much like the eastern, but under both the sea is comparatively smooth, and anchorage may be • hM in seven to ten fathoms of water close under the shore. Vizcaino notes five such anchorages on his chart. On the southeast side of Cape San Augustin, Avhich is 832 feet in height, lies South Bay with from four to ten fathoms of water. An indentation of two and a half miles forms this bay, where anchorage may be had in s^ven fathoms of water, close to the shore, and sheltered from the prevailing winds, but open to the southerly gales that occur during Ihe early part of the wiiitor. In FERRELO. Estebau. With the extremity [the northern shore] of the point of tho mainland running east and west, the coast [to the southward] is northwest and southeast ; it [the island] is a league from the mainland; from this point the mainland turns the coast line towards the northeast, and makes a great gulf, so that the land is not visible. Between the island and the mainland there is a good channel, and they had to pass close to the island, for- there are rocks which extend in a reef from tho point for a quarter of a league. There is much vegeta- tion on tho water, that grows from the bottom; and is matted beneath th.e surface. This island trends with San Pedro Vincula northwest and southeast ; this island has three leagues in circuit. We were at this island with the wind contrary until the following Saturday, the fifth of the said month of August. It has a good port on the side towards the southeast. There is much fishing with a hook, and many birds are found. They departed from the island of San Esteban Satur- day, on tho fifth day of August, and anchored at the Isla de Zedros, where they remained until Thursday, the tenth of the said montli, taking in water and wood. They found no Indiaps, although they found some sign of them. Tho leeward point of this island on the south, side is in twenty-nine degrees, and it has on this south side good ports and water and wood, and it is on this part bare, as it has only some small bushes. The island is large and high and bare, and rnns almost east and west, and. is on this side to the south twelve leagues in length. [See page 184 for mention of the island on the re', urn of the expedition.] DlSllTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. 175 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. They wore higb, and on the top of each were many tall, slender trees." vizcaIno. "And the Almiranta proceeded towards the Mountain, or Island of Cerros, passing between the mainland and a . small island which they named the isla de la Natividad de Nuesira Senora (p. 61). The Capltana and the tender sailed from Port Bar- tholomfe on the 24th of August, in the night, and they did not see the island of Natividad, but passed close to it (p. 62). And they named the small island la Isla de la Nativi- dad, and it is wholly a desert, with only one sort of wild fennel (p. 68)." ULLOA. " The large island was twenty leagues in circuit, and wasafterwardsnamedIsladelo.9Cedro8. * * * Onthe ninth of January they were obliged to run back for shel- ter under the Isla de Cedros, nearthe south part of which they anchored in thirty fathoms. This side of the island was mountainous, and covered with burnt earth and ashes ■ * » * they did not see any appearance of vegetation. They landed, and by digging pits obtained water, in small quantity.and of in- different quality. On the 14th, they anchored near the northern part of the island, which had avery different aspect from the op- posite extremity, being well covered with trees, and in- habited. The next day they anchored in thirty fathoms, near au Indian village on the same island, and Captain Ulloa went with two boats to search for water. * » * [He had a conjlict with the Indians, and his dog Bere- cillo Was badly beaten.] The canoes of these ludians were made of the trunks of the cedars, not hollowed, but merely fastened parallel and close to each other. Some of these trunks were twice the thickuess of a mau, aud six yards in length. On the hills in themorth part of the island, there were groves of these trees, for which reason the name Isla de los Cedros was given to (he island." vizcaIno. "At daybreak on the 25th of August, the Capitaua and Tragata were close to the Island of Cerros which the Admiral thought was the mainland, and therefore ho coasted to the westward; but it pleased our Lord, whom we serve, that for nine days they were unable to double a point which is part of the same island, aud which he named el Caho de San Augustin. "Wearied by continual tacking the General determined to run close under the land, where he thought he would be sheltered from the northwest winds ; and after he had anchored he sent for tic Fragata, and in her the Cosmographer Geronymo Martin, to make a reconnaissance of the Island. And i a he came to an anchor under the south part of the Island of Cetros [in South Bay], on the last_day of August. * * * And the Fragata discovered the Almiranta thia d.ny and the fleet was reunited (p. 65)." 176 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVET. DAYIDSON. FEEKELO. this bay Vizcaino aDcliored on the 31st of August, 1G02. Father Taraval, in 1734, went with the Indians from Point Eugenio to these islands on the same kind of cata- maran or raft that is described by Ulloa. He named the group of islands embracing "Natividad, Cerros and the Benitos, Los Dolores. Neither Ulloa, Vizcaino nor Ca- brillo refer to the San Benito Islands. The San Benito Islands form a group of barren and rocky islands sixteen miles west from Cerros Island. They cover an area of about six miles by two miles. The western or largest island of the group is about one and a cuarter ' miles long and rises to six hundred and fifty feet elevation. • There is anchorage in ten fathoms of water over sandy bottom, a little to the westward of its southeast point. On the southwest paijt of the western islet a Japanese wreck was found by Captain Scammon in 1853. The keel and three or four strakes of the bottom remained. The nails, as well as the wood, proved it to be Japanese ; and the indications were that it had been a long time in the water. Bahia de San Xavier : by Father Taraval, 1734. Sebastian Vizcaino Bay. This is the great gulf which has Cerros Island for its western limit, the north shore of the great range of the Sierra Piutada for its southern boundary, and the long, low, sandy shores of Scammon's Lagoon, TSlack Wari-ior Lagoon, &c., as far north 'as Phiya Maria Bay, for its eastern shores. In describing the landfall about Cerros Island this bay " was referred to byFerrelo as that "great gulf" [una en- senada grande que no paresce tierra], extending to the northeastward from Point Eugenio, but to which neither he nor Vizcaino gave any iiame. The latter has given no limit to its eastern shores; he saw them receding, but did not trace them. The frigate reported that she CQuld not see the limit of this "great arm of the sea which peuetrated the land far to the easj^ward " (pp. 67, 6-)). To-form this gulf the trend of the coast changes at Point Eugenio from northwest and southeast on the ocean side to east on the gulf side. From that point the shore is high and bold for thirty-three miles to the east ; then becomes low and sandy and sweeps twenty-eight miles to the northeast, past the mouth of Scammon's Lagoon to Black Warrior Lagoon ; then twenty-four miles northward past Lagoon Head ; and finally changes again to high bold shores running northwest for nearly one hundred miles. Scammon's Lagoon is the deepest part of this gulf. It is known to extend fifteen miles to the eastward towards the base of the Santa Clara Mountains. The entrance is in latitude 27° 54', and bears E. by N. i N., 41 miles from Point Eugenio. ' Near the entrance to this and the Black Warrior Lagoon, the shore-line is backed by very high sand dunes, and drift logs have been found among these dunes two miles inland (1.754). In Scammon's Lagoon Spanish cedar trunks of trees with branches were found by Scammoji. They had drifted from the Mexican coast and islands. La Punta de San Eugenio, Vizcaino's chart. Sierra Pintada, Torquemadn. Point Eugenio, latitude 27'^ 50'. This headland is not described by Cabrillo or Vizcaino although it is a very remarkable landfall, and tlie south- ern boundary of the great Gulf of Sebastian Vizcaino It is the western estremiCy of (bo mouutaiuoiis penin- UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUKVEY. I77 CABEILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. H. Ex. 40 23 178 UNITED STATES OJAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. DAVIDSON. sula, thirty-five miles long, afld from three to tweuty miles broad, which, stretches from Table Head towards the northwest. Within seven miles of the Point tho mountains are over 1,100 feet above the sea, and beyond the depression behind Port San Bartholomfe they grad- ually rise to over 3,000 feet. The immediate shores are compact, bold , and forbidding. The prolongation of this peninsula is exhibited by tho islands Natividad, C-erros, and San Benito. El Puerto de Santa Clara, in 30° "scant," Ferrelo, La Bahla de San Hipolito, Vizcaino, just under lati- tude 29° on his chart. La Playa Maria Bay, latitude 28" 55'. i The correction to Ferrelo is, — 1° 05' "scant," and the bay lies almost northeast (true), 17 leagues from thenorth end of Cerros Island. Playa Maria Bay is formed by an east-northeaat sweej) of the shore-line for three miles from Maria Point, and then east-southeast for six miles to Black Point. It is about two and a half miles' deep and six miles broad be- tween the two points. The shores are low, sandy, and barren. At the north- east angle of the bay there is a cone-shaped hill 256 feet, high. Immediatelybehindthis hillock, and to the north- eastward, the latest charts place a lagoon, but the traders assert (1885) that there is no lake and no water here. There is gdod anchorage in the northern part of tho bay in six or seven fathoms of water, over sandy bottom, where vessels may lie protected from tbe prevailing sum- mer winds. For two or three miles back of the north shore the land is Id w and flat, and then it rises quickly to the great coast barrier which reaches nearly three thousand feet eleva- vation. I judge this to beTorqneinada's San Hipolito, and not Sajita Eosalia Bay twenty-three miles to the southeast where there is good anchorage and no fresh water, be- cause Vizcaino's Bay of San Coame y San Damian, which lies four leagues to the northwest, has a fresh-water lake We lack detailed and accurate knowledge of this region, but it is probable the reported lagoon may have fresh water in very wet seasons. San Hipolito had already been examined by the Almi- .raiita when separated from the Capitan and Fragata. FEEEELO. They departed from the island of Zedros on Thursday, the tenth'day of the said month of August, to pursue their voyage, and proceeded along the shores of the mainland, sailing to the north. They went this day about ten leagues, and the following Friday dropped anchor in a port which they called Puerto de Santa Clara; it is a good port. They landed and found fonr Indians, who fled. This port i.s thirty degrees scant ; it trends with the island of Zedros, northeast and southwest, and this coast runs from the port towards the ensenada, north- northwest and south-sontheast. l^he coast is clean and soundable ; the land is bare and is not rugged. It has plains and valleys. They were in this port until Sun- day, the thirteenth of the said month, on account of foul winds. Ensenada de San Cosme ySan Damian, Vizcaino. Blanco Bay, in latitude 29° 04'. Five miles from Maria Point the coast-lino falls back one and a half miles and forms False Bay. Five leagues from Maria Point the shore recedes three miles to the northeastward, and forms Blanco Bay, which is a broad bight open to the southwest. Good anchorage may be found here protected from' the prevailing coast winds, The shores are high and rooky, and the coast mountains reach 2,500 feet elevation in ten miles. There is said to he no fresh water here. La Punta del Mai Abrijo, 30|°, Ferrelo. Point Canoas, in latitude 29° 25'; correction to Fer- relo,— 1° 05'. Thereis apoBsibility of itsbeing Bluff Point, in latitude 29° 34'. Working back from San Geronimo Island, one of these points ijiust be that which Cahrillo intended to designate as Mai Abrijo. Sunday, the thirteenth of the said month, they departed from this port and went sailing along the coast with light winds, anchoring each night ; and the following Tuesday they let go anchor under a point which forms a cove, which is in thirty and a half degrees; (<) it affords very little shelter ; they called it Punta del Mai Abrijo. UlSriTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 179 CABKILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. VIZCAINO. " And they sailed from this islaud [ofCerros] on the ninth of Septomher [1602] in search of the Ma de Ceni- zas. Bat first the. Armada sailed towards the mainland, which trended to the northwest : and on the eleventh the squadron made the coast, which on their approach they .found to 1)0 level and pleasant, and they saw a hay, to ■which (p. C9) they gave the name of San Hipolito, and the Bhipscametoanchorinit. » * * Theyfouudthecountry very fertile, and of a delightful appearance, and a hroad heaten road, leading from the coast to the inland parts. They also found a large hut, covered with palm leaves, and capable of holding conveniently fifty people. (P. 69) "Four leagues farther to the northwest of the ensenada of San Hipolito is another ■which they named La Bahia de San Cosme, y San Damian, which the Almi- lanta had surveyed, ■while she was in search of thei Capi- ■tana. It is very well sheltered from the northwest ■winds, end near the shore on the mainland there is afamous fresh- water lalie, and the country also is heautif nl, fertile, and level." 180 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. Point Canoas is a sharp perpendioalar saud bluff 274 feet higli, backed by hills from 700 to 1,200 elevation, and these again backed, at ten miles from the shore, with a range 3,100 feet above the sea. An anchorage partially protected from the coast winds is found under the lee of the point in good weather, in five to seven fathoms of water, over sandy bottom, about a mile form the shore. From the point the shore-line runs ten miles eastward, of which the eastern sis miles has a low shore with a broad plain behind it, according to the chart of 1873. If he anchored deep in the bight between Point Canoas and Bluff Point, Cabrillo might have been abreast a deep arroyo laid down on the latest charts. Vizcaino has an anchorage laid down just under 30>=, but without name. Cabo del EngaBo, no latitude, Vizcaino. See page 184 for the Cabo del Engano of UUoa, Cabrillo, and Ferrelo. Bluff Point; latitude 29° 34'. A study of Vizcaino's narrative fully satisfies me that he applied this name to the headland which is fifteen or sixteen miles southeast of Point San Antonio. Vizcaino Iiad stormy weather here; his shipa got sep- arated; and he gives the particulars very clearly. Ho says the island of San Geronymo is about eight leagues to the west-northwest of Cape Engafio. It is just 25 miles. Bluff Point is a bold sand point 100 feet high, and lies eighteen and three-quarter miles in a southeasterly direc- tion from Point San Antonio. The sand bluffs on this part of the coast are backed by moderately high hills and in some portions by table-lands that rise from 1,000 to 2,000 feet in elevation. Of these mountains. Som- brero Peak, lying about two miles to the northeast of Bluff Point, is the most conspicuous, and reaches an elevation of 1,968 feet. The chart exhibits a "table land" ten miles in extent, to the northwest of Bluff Point, and about two thousandf eet in height. It is only about five miles from the shore. This table-land is Las Mesas de San Cypriano of Vizcaino, in latitude 29° 4'J'. La Bahia de San Francisco, Vizcaino. He gives no lati- tude. It is laid down upon his chart about three leagues to the southeast of the Isla de San Geronimo, and must be to the southeast of the Point EngaRo or San Antonio, and to the northwest-of Bluff Point. Abreast Las Mesas there 'is a great field of kelp stretching out to twenty- five fathoms of water, and it is probable that inside this kelp, under some slight indentation, they fonnd anchor- age, and gave it this name. A depth of twelve fathoms of water is found in this kelp four miles from the shore over a bottom of sand and rock. The slight indentatiou of the shore about five miles southeast of Point Engano or San Antonio is in latitude 29° 42', and under the north- west flank of Las Mesas. The latest charts do not give any anchorage at this place, nor has it any name. Point San Antonio, latitude 29° 45'. This is really the turning point of the coast-line, where it takes a new trend more to the northward. This is not the Cabo del Engalio of Cabrillo. It is not mentioned by Vizcaino in his narrative and his chart does not indi- cate it, but unusual prominence is given to the Island of FEERELO. The Wednesday following they were sailing along the coast and had a heavy northwest wind, which was con- trary, and they lay to at night without making any pro- gress ; and the following Thvirsday they held on with heavy rains and adverse winds and calms, so that they made no headway, and this following night they had rauch UNITED STATES COAST AISTD GEODETIC SURVEY. 181 CABEILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. (P. 70.) "As the Armada proceeded along the coast they saw many large fires and smokes made by the ladians. But the northwest wind blew so violently, and the air was BO cold, that the squadron was obliged to run close in with the land, and on the sixteenth they were under some lofty black mountains, on the top of which were large plains. ' These they called Las Mesas de San Cypri- ano. To the leeward or southeast of this Sierra or range of mountains (p. 71) were some white cliffs; and on them greatnumbers of Indians. * * * However, the next day the weather became fair, with a gentle breeze, by which they recovered What they had lost during the storm, and aiTived off the Mesas, where the land forms a point of the Cape. Here they were again overtaken by a most violent gale from the northwest, with thick weather, * « » and again lost sight of each other (p. 72). The reason for the usual violence of the wind at this Capo, called del Engaflo, is that the air is there, contracted betwixt the cape and the island of Ceniza, which lies about eight leagues distant along the mainland to the west-northwest of Cape Engano (p. 73), and this island is divided in the middle, forming two steep, lofty, round mountains of equal height. * » * The Capitana alone » * * even ventured to double Cape Engano. "And having to the northwest of Las Mesas de San Cy- priano and the Cabo de el Engano (p. 73) found a good harbor, the General ordered the two ships to stand in for it. Accordingly, iu the evening of San Francisco' which was the 3rd of October, they entered the bay, which they called La Bahia de San Francisco (p. 74) , In a rancheria they found onions and goat's horns. The country is level and fruitful, and by the dung and other indications seems to have a great plenty of cattle and deer. 182 UNITED STATES COAST A.XD GEODETIC SUEYE\. DAVIDSON. Saa Geioiiimo. Aud I think it higlily probable that it is not the EngaBo of Ulloa, who may have reached this latitude, and seeing Point Baja beyond and a trifle far- ther to the westward, gave up the ceaseless struggle he had made against the northwest winds. It is a bluff point, with a peak 570 feet high, close to the shore, and about one and a half miles southeast from the point. About three miles southeast of the point there is the mouth of a very remarkable gorge, which extends more than a mile inland. Between this gorge and the high pealc the San Eosario River enters the sea. • Ferrelo was under the coast between Bluff Point aud Point San Antonio. FERRELO. wind from the west-northwest, aud lay to for rest; and the following Friday they proceeded with fair winds and they found themselves to windward of the Point of Mai Abrijo six leagues; and so they held on [_tlieir course} until the following Saturday, on the nineteenth of the said month, La Isla do San Bernardo, 30|°, Ferrelo. La Isla do San G6r6nymo, Vizcaino. San Geriiaimo Island, latitude 29° 48', correction to Ferrelo's latitude,— 42'. This islet lies eight leagues from Bluff Point, and thirteen leagues from Point C anoas. It is a league broad off' Point San Antonio. Five miles to the south-southeast lies the dangerous Sacramento Reef. To the northward the trend of the shore is north-northwest, aud to the southward southeast by east. "It is a barren rock, covered in many places with a mixture of sand and guano ; three-quarters of a mile long and less than a third of a mile broad ; with rocky beaches and cliffs ten to twenty feet in height. Near the . centre is a jjeak 172 feet high, and northward of this are two lower ones.'' » » » " There is anchorage to the eastward of the islet in about seven fathoms over sandy bottom, but an uncomfortable swell will usually be felt. A good landing place is found on a small shingle beach, in a slight indentation of the shore-line on the souiheast side of the islet, at the base of the highest peak." The present absence of wood may have resulted from fire spreading over the islet. Torquomada is apparently confused about the Island of Cenizas aud-the Island of San 6er6nimo, as if they were two distinct islands, and he even mentions the characteristics of each. The explanation is this: The Almiranta, after her separation from the fleet, searched for the'Capitaua by going as far back as Cerros Island, and then, not wishing to' be again obstructed, made a long tack to seaward (p. 79), when she saw Guadalupe Island, which she named the Isla do Paxaros, aud from this position she. tacked inshore, making the landfall north of San Hilario Island (San Martin Island), which they saw and miscalled the Island of Cenizas (p. 89) ; thence she sailed in search of the Capitana, and when near the Bay of the Virgins she saw the Capitana and Fragata sailing out. This islet, as we shall soou see, is also double headed. Moreover, it is evident that the fleet had previous knowledge of some island described as Cenizas (cinders, lava), because on tlieir Jiassage to the northward they left Cerros Island to search for it. This knowledge they must have derived from the voyages of Ulloa and Cabrillo, and the description may possibly hav6 referred to Natividad aud Cerros Islands. On Vizcaino's return voyage he passed the Bay of Todos Santos, and came in sight of the Island of San Hilario (San Martin Island) on the 3d of February (p. 122^ And when they dropped anchor off a small island which is half a league from the mainland. It may be ten leagues from the Point of- Mai Abrijo ; it is in thirty and half de- grees ; it has a good anchorage aud good shelter ; they called it San Bernardo ; it extends one league north and south. The coast of the mainland runs north-northwest and south-southeast, and is a clean coast. The land within is of very good appearance and level, and there are good valleys and some trees, and the rest is baro. They did not find these days a sign of Indians. UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. 183 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. (P. 68.) " On the 9tli of September, tlie sciuadron left the islandofCerrqs) to proceed to that of Cenizas. * ' » The island of Ceniza which lies about eight leagues west- northwest from el Cabo do el EngaQo [or Bluff Point] (p. 73). (P. 74.) The Fragata also reported that a little farther [beyond BaLia de-Sau Francisco] they found a small island wliich they called San Geronymo ; and the General ordered some of the sailors to go ashore and take a view of it. Here they saw prodigious numbers of birds, and much wood. [On- his. chart it is named the lala de San Geronimo.] 184 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. " after passiDg the Bay of the Virgins ou the 5tli of this month, they made the island Cenizas, ^Thich, asveehave already mentioned, had heen surveyed by the Almiranta. Here the northwest winds increasing, the ships stood in for the Island of Cerros." This Island of Cenizas is cer- tainly Ihe San Geronymo of Ootol5er 3d, 1602 (p. 74). FEERELO, El Cabo del Eugauo, 30°, UUoa. El Caho del EngaSo, 31°, CabriUo. La Punta del Engafio, 31°, Ferrelo. Point Baja, in latitude 29° 56' (on a late chart, Pnnta Bajo). Tne correction to Cabrillo and Ferrelo is,— 0° 64'. It is eight and a half miles N. by W. i W. from San Gcronimo Island, and NW. by N. i N., twelve and a half miles from Point San Antonio. Eastward of the point the shore retreats abruptly and forms Eosario Bay, in which safe anchorage may be had in iive to six fathoms over saudy bottom, sheltered from the usual coast winds of summer. Punta Baja is a low sand cliff 30 feet high. Behind it the land rises to 300.and 500 feet in two miles, and to a mountain range of nearly 2,000 feet elevation within ten miles. The shores of Eosario Bay rise in sandy cliifs from 50 to 100 feet high. Off the point and the ap- proaches great fields of kelp extend out into deep water Sunday, the twentieth of the said month of August, they departed from the island of San Bernardo, and ap- proached Punta del Engano, which is seven leagues from this island, which point is in thirty-one degrees :_^ the coast of the point towards tlie island trends north- northwest, south-southeast; on Punta del EngaSo the land is not high, and appears in itself a good and level land ; the ridges are bare : we saw no sign of Indians ; The coast from Punta IJaja runs true north for twenty- four miles hence to Point San Queutin. El Puerto do la Posesi'on, 31|°, Ferrelo. La Babla (de las Virgines), Vizcaino. Port San Quentinin latitude 30° 24' ; correction to Fer- relo,— 1° 06'. La Punta de las Virgines, Vizcaino's chart. Cape San Queutin, latitude 30° 22'. This cape is twenty-six and three-quarter miles NW. by N. from Punta Baja, and is the sonthern termination of a narrow peninsula eight miles in length, formed by a line of fi^e remarkable hills lying north-northwest and south-southeast, and from 324 feet to 1,000 feet ele- vation. They were aptly named the Five Hnraniocks by Vancouver. To the eastward'of this peninsula there is low coun- try, with great lagoons penetrating the laud for several miles. The entrance to these lagoons is ou the east side of the cape and two miles from its extremity. Inside of the entrance the port is small but aft'ords perfectly secure anchorage and protection from all winds. No vessel drawing over twelve feet of water should attempt to en- ter the port without sending in aboat to sound the chan- nel, which has two and a quarter fathon.s of water at low tide. The village of San Queutin lies five or six miles in a northeasterly direction from the anchorage, at the foot of a range of hills, and near some salt ponds. Tebenkoff, in his hydrographic description of this part of the coast, says: "The only place where fresh water fit to drink is to be found, is the well, excavated by the Eussians in 1805, situated upon the spit running from the right shore towards the Cape San Quentin. The soil is of sand and clay, impregnated with salt, and in and so they continued sailing until the next Monday following the coast to the north and northeast ; and about ten leagues from Punta del EngaQo they discovered a good port, in which they anchored and took in water and wood : it is in thirty-one and a half degrees: it is a port siritable for making any kind of repairs for the ships, by placing the latter under the lee of the hills. The following Tuesday the captain, Juan Eodrignez Cabrillo, went ou shore and took possession of it in the name of His Majesty and of the most illustrious Seuor Don Antonio do Mendoza, and gave it the name of Puerto de la Posesion. He found a lake which had three (') [arms] ; and they found some Indian fishermen, who im- mediately fled. They took one of them, and, giving him certain presents, they released hirn,and he went off. The land in the interior is high and rugged and has good valleys, and appears to be a good country, although it is bare. They were on shore here until Sunday, the twen- ty-seventh of said month, repairing the sails and obtain- ing a supply of water ; and Thursday they saw certain smokes and went there with a boat and found about thirty fishermen, who were friendly, and they brought to the ship a boy and two Indian women, to whom they gave clothing and presents and let them go ; from whom they could understand nothing by signs. The following Friday, going to take in water, they found at the watering xilaco certain Indian.s, who were friendly, and these showed them a pond of water and a salt pit which contained much, and they said by signs that they had not their habitation there, but in the inte- rior, and that there were many people. This same day, in the evening, five Indians came to the shore, whom they brought to the ship, and they appeared intelligent In- dians ; and entering in the ship they took note of the Spaniards who were there and counted them, and made signs that they had seen other men like them, who had UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO 185 Oa the twentieth of August they found themselves at El Cabo del EngaBo in thirty and one degrees. ULLOA. ''They sailed to the northward above twenty leagues beyond this island [of Cerros], and were then in thirty degrees of north latitude." He " was driven back" l)y " thouortliwest winds, -which continued fixed." » * » " Ulloa made many attempts to get to the north, but was always forced to return for shelter to the Isla de Cedros, The Santa Agneda, the larger vessel, being a heavy sailer^ and in want of repairs. Captain Ulloa determined to send her back to New Spain, and to endeavor with the Triuidad only to jiroceed on the proposed discovery. ' * * On the 5th of April the two vessels parted, the Sta. Agueda sailing for New Spain. [Incidentally this vessel notes sea weed growing ill fifteen fathoms of water, &c.] ' " Ulloa, in the Trinidad, endeavored in vain to get far- ther north. The utmost he reached was to a point of land which he named Cabo del Engaiio [.the Cape of De- ception]. The winds blowing nuceasinglyfrom the north- west, and his provisions being nearly expended, he bent his course for New Spain, where he arrived after an ab- sence of a year, which was employed in this expedition." vizcaIno. "A little beyond this island (p. 74) [of San Geronimo] there seemed to be a large bay or inlet (p. 75) with a very Impetuous current both at the ebb and flood tides : and the General supposing there might be a latge river at the bottom of it, stood in with both ships, in order, if it af- forded a, good harbor, to wait some days there for the Almiranta, which if not lost, must pass near the mouth of it. The tender stood in first, sounding all the way ; but at the mouth of the estero found a bar with only three fathoms of water at low tide, so that the Capitana did not think it advisable to venture in ; but the tender sailed over the bar, and found a good harbor. * * " They found near the coast a great number of naked Indians, fishing in canoes made of thick and pliable flags which grow in fresh watet » * • And who showed them sev- eral wells of very good water, « * » which were in a thickcopseof willowB.iudosiersintermixed. * * ■'The Indians also intimated by signs that up iu-tho country there were great numbers of people clotlied, who had Tbeards, and that they also had lire-arms. " * ' " The Capitana and Fragata having s( aid in this bay the time proposed, the General gave orders for putting to sea, in order to look out for the Almiranta ; accordingly she got under sail on the 24th of October ; but as they were standing out of the bay they saw the Almiranta, which gave them the greatest joy, not having seen her for twenty-eight days, and had now given her over for lost " (p. 78). [On his chart Vizcaino locates the Indian village ; and makes two anchorages in the open bay.] H. Ex. 40 24 186 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY, DAVIDSON. places overgrown with ,a hard prickly plant, sheltering numbers of snakes : on the beach turtles and amphibians are constantly sunning themselves, as well as sea- elephants, sea-lions, and sometimes fur seals. There are very few birds." From Port San Quentin the coast trends eastwardly for seven or eight miles and then turns to the southward, forming the open hay of San Quentin. The water is shoal for several miles off shore, and n long swell will usually be found rolling in, making it an uncomfortable anchorage. The north and east shore of the bay is a low sand beach, with the eastern hills rising to three hundred feet high a short distance inland, and these backed by a mountain range reaching from 1,500 to 4,000 feet. In liis narrative Vizcaino does not give any name to this " graude Bahla o Eusenada " (p. 74), but on page 80, when speaking of the Almiranta coming iu sight, ho refers to it as la Bahia de las Virgines. La Isla de San Augustin, Ferrelo. Ho gives no lati- tude and no distance sailed from Cape San Quentin. La Isla de Cenizas, Vizcaino, by the Almiranta (p. 80). La Isla de San Hilario, Vizcaino, by the Capitana (p. 80). San Martin Island, latitude 30° 29|.' On the chart of Vizcaino it is laid down jnst outside Cape San Quentin, but without name. On his re+urn to New Spain, in February', 1603, he reached the wells of the Bay of Todos Santos, &c., and continuing southward came in sight of the island of San Hilario. It is in latitude 30° 29', lies three miles off the coast, and is nearly ten miles northwest from the cape. " The island is nearly circular iu form, having its great- est diameter (one and a half miles) in an east and west direction. There are two remarkable i)eaks near the cen- ter. The western, Which is 497 feot high, is an extinct • volcano having a crater at its summit 330 feet in diame- ter and 40 feet deep. The island is quite barren, produc- ing nothing but the prickly pear and a few stunted bushes, that grow among the loose masses of lava. " There is good anchorage on the southe.ast side of the island, off a small lagoon which has communication with the sea at half tide ; and anchorage may be found any- where on the northeast side. The best place to anchor in is Hassler Cove, a snug little bight on the eastern side of the island, protected on all sides except the north. Au- * chor in seven to nine fathoms with the northeru end of the natural breakwater that forms the east side of the cove, bearing S. 571' E. true. The island is surrounded by detached rocks and kelp ; and great numbers of seal and sea fowl resort to it, particularly to the shores of the cove and the lagoon " (p. 8). Torquemada says that the Island Cenizas is divided in the middle, making two high mountains. ■ Ferrelo does not mention on which side of the island the drift timber was found, but evidently on the east, where he anchored. [See memorandum about the Spanish cedar found at Scammon's Lagoon.] San Ramon Bay, latitude 30° 49'. For twenty-one miles north of San Manin Island the coast-line runs nearly true north and south, and t hen forms the broad bight known as San Eamou Bay or A'irgins Bay. Thence tiie shore of sand dunes runs northwest to the FERRELO. beards, and who brought dogs and cross-bows and swords. The Indians came .smeared with a white bitumen on the thighs and body and arms, and they had the bitumen ap- plied in the manner qf slashes, so that they appeared like men in slashed douulets and hose; and thoy made signs that five days' journey thence were the Spaniards. And they made signs that there were many Indians, and that they had much maizo and many parrot.'*. They came covered with deer skins, and some had the deer skins dressed iu the manner in which the Mexicans dress the skius which they carry iu the cutters. This is an ad- ■ vauced and well-disposed people. They carry bows and arrows like those of New Spain, the arrows tipped with flints. The Captain gave them a letter, which they should carry to the Spaniards who they said were in the interior. Thoy departed from this Puerto de la Posesion Sunday, the twenty-seventh of the said month of August, and sailing on their course found an island two leagues from the mainland ; it is uninhabited ; there is a good port in it; they gave it the name of San Augustin ; it measures two leagues in cii'cumference ; and so they held on along the coast with light winds, working to windward, until the following Wednesday, the thirtieth of said month, which gavp them much wind from the northwest, which compelled them to put into tho island of Saji Augustin. In this island they found some sign of people, and two x:ow-horns, and very large trees which the sea had oast there, which had more than sixty feet in length, and were of snch thickness that two men could not embrace one ot them ; these appeared to be cyjiresses, and there were ce- dars. There was a large quantity of this wood ; it con- tains nothing else. If a good port, it is not a valuable island ; they were at this island until the following Sun- day. On Sunday, the third day of September, they departed from the said island of San Augustin, and proceeded, sail- ing ou-their course, and the following Monday they dropped anchor about seven leagues distant on the windward shore, on a coast running north and south ; and then they imiTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 187 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. Wheu the Almirauta stood iiisliorc from tlie island of Paxaros or Gnadaliipe slie made the coast just north of the island of San Martin, and "they saw the island of Ceuiza, that was left hehind them (p. i-O) ; that those of the Capitana had not seen ; and jirosecnting the search for the Capitana and the Fragata; and coming into the Bahia de las Virgines, they saw the Capitana and tender . sailing out to sea: » " * and the General gave orders to continue their course to the first harbor they should find. Accordingly they passed near a small island close to themainlandj-p.hichtheycalledSanHilario * * * (p.80). 188 UNITED STATES OOAST AND GEODETKl SURVEY. DAVIDSON. bay under Oape Colnett, to neither of which does Fer- relo refer, unless he means the bay under Cape Coluett when he says he anchored in the Ensenada which the island forms. The coast hence runs eighteen miles true north. There is a broad valley northward of Cape Col- uett and then jagged mountains. For fifteen miles southeast of Cape Colnett the kelp field is very dense iu thirteen fathoms of water. On the other hand, he may have anchored in the broad indenta- tion sixteen milos north (true) from Cape Colnett, oif the month of the San Vicente River. Five miles off the shore sonndings arc had iu thirteen fathoms of water. A few miles iu the interior the mountains attain an eleva- tion of 1,500 to 2,000 feet. At eight or ten miles inland is the old Mission of Sau Vicente. Cabo de Sau Simon y Judas, Vizcaino's cfiart. Cape Coluett, in latitude 30° 59'. La Bahla de San Simon y Judas, Vizclaud (pp. 81, 84). Colnett Bay. Cape Colnett is a remarkable headland. Its shore out- line is semicircular, with perpenilioular cliffs, from 150 to 350 feet-high, of a very dark-colored rock which forms the upper horizontal layer or stratum, based on a light sand- stone. The coast retains the same general appearance for ten miles to the northward of the cape. The eastern shore of the cape trends north and eastward for two and a half miles, forming Coluett Bay, where good anchorage may be found abreast a remarkable gorge in from six to nine fathoms of water over a sandy bottom. Ten to fifteen miles southward of the cape the coast sweeps around to the southward, forming what is called on the charts San Ramon Bay, as already mentioned. Ten miles behind Cape Colnett the mountains rise to 1,500 and 2,000 feet elevation. Neither Cabrillo nor Ferre'.o refers to this notable headland to the bay. This is the first time that Ferrelo mentions currents from the northward. El Cabo de Sau Martin, 32-J°, Ferrolo. Cape San Tomaa, or Point Santo Jomaij; laiiludo 31° ;'!3' ; correction to Fenelo,— 0° 57' Ferrelo's description means a narrow promontory or sharp cape formed by a spur or ridge of the mountains projecting from the interior and ending in a liigh point. Vizcaino makes no mention of this cape in his narra- tive ; but he has the projecting point on his chart, and behind it the legend "mountainous.'' "The point lies twelve miles S. 14° E. from Banda Point. The coast-line between them is crescent-like, high and precipitous, with deep water close inshore, and nu- merous detached rocks. The point itself is low and rocky, rising abruptly to a height of 395 feet, where it unites with the coast mountains, which attain, at five or six miles inland, an elevation of 4,520 feet. * * » Half a mile to the southward of the.point the coast makes a sharp turn to the eastward, forming a small bight, where good anchorage may be found one quarter of a mile from shore, in five to six fathoms of water, over sandy bottom sheltered from the prevailing coast winds. A stream running through a deep cafiada opens on the beach two miles southeast of the anchorage; a road leads from abreast this anchorage to the mouth of this stream, and thence to the old Mission of Santo Tomas, situated sixteen miles FERKELO, ,continuod their course and were sailiug with fair weather, on a coast running north and south, until Thursday, the seventh day of the said month of September, when they oast anchor in a oovo which the land forms ; and hero ends the coast, which runs north and south and turns to the northwest. Behind this cova theiTe is a large valley, and the land is level on the coast, and within are high ranges, and rough land good in appearance. All the coast is bold with a smooth bottom, as at half a league from land they were at anchor in ten fathoms ; hero there is much vegetation on the water. On the Friday following, on the eighth of the said month, they held on with light winds, working to wind- ward, and they found here contrary currents ; they dropped anchor uuder a point which forms a cape, and affords a good shelter from the west-northwest ; they gave it the name of Cabo de San Martin; where the land terminates on both sides; and here also terminates a chain of high mountains that are beyond in the distance, and end by other smaller sierras. There is a large valley and many others ; iu appearance it is good land ; it is in thirty-two and a half degrees, and is a clean port and soundable; it trends with the island of Sau Augustin, north and south. Being at this Cabo de San Martin, they went on shore for water, and found a small lagoou with fresh water, where they procured water, and at this watering-place came forty Indiana with their bows and arrows; they could not understand each other; they came naked; they brought roasted agaves to eat and fish ; this is an advanced race; here, they took possession; they were at this cape until the following, Monday. ' UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 189 t CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAtNTO. (P. 80.) "And ranging along the coast [nortliward from lala de San Hilario] tliey came in sight of a large bay, which the General ordered the tender to sound and survey; and thoy fonnd it afforded a very good shelter against the northwest wind, (p. SI), and there were many Indians, and going further north about two leagues they were overtaken by a strong gale at northwest which obliged them to put back into the said bay ; and it being the anniversary of the glorious' Apostles Saint Simon and San Judas, October 28th, they gave that name. to the bay. "Here the General ordered the Almiranta to take in wood and water. * !• * Near the shore they found a con- siderable number of Indians, who were alert and cour- ageous" (p. 81). [They had a fight with the Indians, * * * and left the bay on the first of November.] 190 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. FERRELO DAVIDSON. iiiland, in a very fertile valley. A smaller stream opens directly opposite the anchorage.'? In 1873, wlien passing this point, we made the follow- ing note which may explain Ferrelo's peculiar expres- sion, "As seen from the northwest, the point of Solita- lios shows vertical dykes" (with illustrations). The anchorage is called ' ' Sheltered Cove " in the Coast Survey Chart of T874. El Cabo de la Cruz ; 33° Cabrillo. El Cabo de Cruz ; 33° Ferrelo. Grajero Point, in latitude 31° 45'. Banda Point, on some charts. Correction to Cabrillo and Ferrelo,— 1° 15'. Las Islas de Todos Santos. La Eusenada de Todos las Santos ; Vizcaino (p. 121). Todos Santos Bay. Ferrelo does not describe this great bay as a whole, but in embarrassing details ; and on account of adverse winds ' his estimates of distances are very erroneous. He barely mentions passing a small island, which must be Todos Santos Island. Grajero Point is a very bold, narrow head, projeotiiig five miles into tho-sea to the west-northwestward, and in- creases in width from a quarter of a mile to two miles. Near the extreme point the height is 1,273 feet; and in three and a half miles from the coast-line, between this cape and Point Santo Tomas the mountains rise to 3,563 feet. The sides of the cape are i)recipitous and slope both ways (N. NE. and S. SW.). The Todos Santos Islands are on the prolongation of the cape and distant three miles therefrom. Their com- biued length is two miles, and the width half a mile. The southeast islet rises 374 feet, and the northwest islet about (JO feet. They lie about the middle of the entrance to the bay, which is nine miles broad by as many deep. In the southeast part of the bay there is a broad sand beach behind which lies a lagoon receiving the waters of two small streams. Vizcaino indicates this low shore by a discontinued line. In the northeast part of the bay is the Ensenada anchorage, and under the northwest cape, called San Miguel, is the anchorage abreast the Arroyo Carmen. Very high mountains surround the bay. A fa- vorable wind induced Vizcaino to postpone the survey of the bay until bis return voyage, when he ivas unable to ' carry out his plan . El Puerto de San Mateo, 33J°, Ferrelo. This "port" may be the present Ensenada anchorage in the northeast part of Todos Santos Bay, where his description suits very well ; he very probably passed out- side the Todos Santos Islets to get there. It is well shel- tered from all winds but the southwest, and he would have to get water by digging or from water-pools filled by the early rains. It is only nine miles in a direct line from his Cabo de Cruz. It is in latitude 31° 51', and the correction to Ferrelo's latitude would be,— 1° 29'. If he passed outside the islets it is a possibility that he was under Cape San Miguel or Sansal Point, which forms the northwestern limit of Todos Santos Bay, and lies six and a half miles from the Ensenada anchorage. The cliffs are bold and high, and he could have gotten water from the Arroyo Carmen, but he would have been exposed to the heavy swell from seaward. Monday, on the eleventh of said month, they departed from Cabo de SanMartin and sailed about four leagues on a coast running from north-northeast to south -southwest, (6) and thence the coast turns to the northwest. The land is lofty and bare ; and the day following they sailed also with adverse winds about four leagues on a coast running from northwest to southeast. On the land there are high and broken sierras ; and the following Thurs- day thly dropped anchor at about three leagues in ad- vance at a point which projects sharply into the sea ; they called it Cabo de Cruz ; i-t is in thirty-three degrees ; there is no water nor wood, nor did they find any signs of Indians. • Having- departed from Cabo de Cruz, they found them- selves the following Saturday two leagues from Cabo de Cruz on account of the head winds on a coast from north- north-west to south-southeast, and under the shore they saw Indians in some very small canoes. The land is very high and bare and dry. All the land from the extremity of California to this place is sandy like the sea-beach. - Here bfegins land of another character, as it is a coun- try of beautiful vegetation and better appearance, like orchards. Sunday, the seventeenth of the said month, they sot sail to pursue their voyage, and about six leagues from Cabo do Cruz they found a good port well enclosed, and to ar- rive there they passed by a small island which is near the mainland. In this port they obtained water, and there are groves resembling silk cotton trees [ceybas], ex- cept that it is hard wood. They found thick and tall trees which the sea throws ashore. This port was called San Mateo. It is a good conntry in appearance. There are large cabins, and the herbage like that of Spain, and the land is high and rugged. They saw herds of animals like flocks cf sheep, which went togetherby the hundred or more, which resembled in appearance and movement Peruvian sheep, and with long wool. They have small horns of a span in length as thick as the thumb, and the tail is broad and round and of the length of a palm. It 18 in thirty-threo and one-third degrees. They took pos- UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUBVEY. CABRILI.O ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. 191 Oil the foiirteeutli of September they oatuo to anchor at a cape, which they called do la Cruz ; laud precipi- tous, high, and harren, which is in thirty anil three de- grees. "The squadron having left the bay of St. Simon and St. Jude (p. 84), and continuing their voyage against the wind, and against the currents, they came very near to a great bay nearly surrounded by lofty mountains; and by ( ho breaking of the sea near the harbor, it appeared that i t was an arm of the sea or the mouth of a river. In th^ west part of the bay, about two leagues distant, there are two islands which they call Todos Santos The ten- der being ordered in, the Almiranta followed her; but the Capitana,as night was coming on,8(oodoff to sea; and the others, that they might not be separated from her, also put baoli. This happened on the 5th of Novem- ber, and the next morning it was agree d to stand again into the bay and take a plainer view of it, but a favora- ble breeze springing up and theGeneral thinking itmost . advisable to take advantage of it, and refer the survey to their return, they continued their course." [About the end of January, 1603, Vizcaino was return- ing to La Paz for succor (p. 121) ; ma ny of his crew be- ing dead from scurvy and only three or four remaining fit to navigate his ship. The winds were light and he made but slow progress, but he carried the ships to the springs or wells which he had j)reviouBly found in the deepest part of the Ensenada de Todos los Santos. Under these circumstances liis description is very meagre;] 192 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUKVEY. DAVIDSON. Neithei- the Coast Pilot nor the chart uotes any anchor- age, although it is reported that schooners have recently anchored here. Cape San Miguel lies nine miles true north from the Southern Cape of Todos Santos Bay, and is in latitude 31° 33^'. This would give a correction to Ferrelo of — 1° 30'. He was in the region of the antelope, which were still running in largo herds around San Diego Bay in 1851. There is a remarkable valley opening on the coast in 32° 06'. It exhibits several marked terraces reaching back and up to a great height above the sea. Cabrillo must have been near Descanso Bay in latitude 32° 16', hut the distance is only twelve leagues. FEKRELO. session of it. They were in this port until the following Satnrday. Saturday, the twenty-third of the said month, Jthey departed from the said port of San Mateo and sailed along the coast until the following Monday, in which time they niado about eighteen leagues. They saw very beautiful valleys and groves,. and a -country flat and rough, and they did not see Indians. Las Islas Desiertas, 34°, Ferrelo. Las Islas de los Coronados, Vizcaino (page 85). Las Islas de San Martin, chart of Vizcaino. Los Coronados Islands, in latitude 32° 85'. Correction to Ferrelo's latitude,— 1° 35'. This is a group of four or five rocky and desolate islets. There are two main islets and three smaller masses of rooks. The largest islet is about seven miles from the coast-line, and the others stretch to. the northwest for four or five miles. The largest is two miles long by half a mile wide ; it is wedge-shaped, and at its highest peak attains an elevation of 674 feet. On the west and north- west sides lie two barren rocks tifty feet high. The north- western islet is a barren rook seven-tenths of a mile in extent and 350 feet high. A fair anchorage may be had in eight fathoms of water over sandy bottom,-on the east side of the islet, northward of its middle. Kohl says: "There is little doubt that the 'Dolores' mentioned by Taraval were the Coronados Islands"! We have already shown that Taraval lauded onNatividad and Cerros Islands. La Mesa de la Ceua, Vizcaino's chart. La Mesa Eedonda of the native Californians. Table Mountain, in latitude 32° 20' 05", longitude llii 54' 17". This is a notable mountain, especially as a landfall to the navigator; and Vancouver gives a characteristic view of it. It lies about seven milt s inside the shore of Descanso Bay. As seen from every side it is flat topped and the top nearly circular. The surface of this table is covered with singular fragments of rock. The diameter of the flat top is 1,60 yards, and its height above the sea is 2,244 feet ; so that it is visible at fifty miles from sea- ward. A few miles to the southeast of this mountain there is another marked mountain of three sharp peaks rising 400 to 500 feet higher than Table Mountain. It seems curious that Cabrillo did not mention these mount- ains. THE COAST OF ALTA CALIFORNIA. El Puerto de San Miguel, 34J°, Ferrelo. El Puerto de San Diego, Vizcaino. El Puerto Bueno de San Diego, Vizcaino's chart. San Diego Bay. The light-honse near the extremity of Point Loma is in latitude 32° 40'. Correction to Fer relo,— 1°40'. El Biien Puerto, \izcaiuo. False Bay. On the Tuesday and Wednesday following they sailed along the coast abont eight leagues and passed by some three uninhabited islands. One of them is larger than the others, and extends two entire leagues, and forms a shelter from the west winds. They are three leagues from the mainland ; they are in thirty-four degrees. This day they saw on the land great signal smokes. It is a good land in appearance, and there are great valleys, and in the interior there are high sierras. They called them Las Islas Desiertas. The Thursday following they proceeded about six leagues along a coast running uorth-northwest and dis- covered a port enclosed and very good, to which they gave the name of San Miguel. It is in thirty-four and one-third degrees; and after anchoring in it they, went on shore, which had people, three of whom remained and all the others fled. To these they gave some prosents: and they said h^ signs that in the interior had passed UNITED STATES COAST A:N^D GEODETIC SURVEY. 193 CABEILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. "After sailing a few leagues, the wind again shifted to the northwest, but they kept coasting along the shore, and were amused by the smokes and fires made by the Indians all along the Strand as an invitation to the ships to send their people ashore. The country appeared very beautiful, and level, and pleasant. At the distance of six leagues from the mainland, they fell in with four isl- ands, to which they gave the name of Los Coronados (p. 84) ; the two smaller appear like sugar-loaves, the other two somewhat larger." [On his chart he names them Las Islas de San Martm, and has a anchorage on the north side of the largest.] LVizcaino's chart places the "Mesa de la Cena" near the coast-line to the southward of the Coronados. It furnishes the only attempt at hachuring on Bumey's copy of his chart and therefore must have impressed the cos- mographer."! " To the north of these islands [Los Coronados] (p. 85), on the mainland is a famous harbor which was named the Puerto de San Diego, which the squadron entered at seven in the evening of San Martin on the tenth of No- vember. The day following the General ordered several persons to survey a hill (monte) [La Loma] which ai- forded protection to this port from northwest winds. * ** On this hill they found tall and straight oaks, and other H. Ex. 40 25 194 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVBY. DAVIDSON. La lala do Arena. The Peninsula. "The Island" is the low sandy, chaparral-coveredpenin8ula,formingtbe west shoreof the bay and crowding so close to Ballast Point under Panta de la Loma as tj form the deep narrow channel between the bay and the sea. It is not over six feet above the level of the sea, and in 1850 was locally known as " The Island," and now known as the " Peninsula." Next \f> that of San Francisco, no harbor on the Pacific coast of the United States approaches in excellence the Bay of San Diego. It is readily distinguished by the notable landmark of Point Loma, in latitude 32° 39', is easily approached on account of the absence of outlying dangers, and a depth of twenty-two feet of water can be carried over the bar. This bar has not changed in depth or position since the time of Vancouver. Vessels approaching San Diego Bay make the ridge of Point Loma as a long flat-topped island, when about twenty-five miles distant. This appearance is occasioned by the bay to the southwest, by the low land to the north- east, and by the Puerto Falso at the north. The bay 5s a long curving body of water about twelve miles in length, and from one-half to ten miles in width. For the first six or seven miles from the cntrauoe there is a fine broad channel, carrying four to eight fathoms of water. The southern end of the bay is occupied by very extensive flats, through, which a channel with twenty to twelve feet of water is found. Between the bay, and the ocean there is a narrow strip of sand dunes and very low ground. When insijle the entrance of the bay, a vessel is shel- tered from every wind, and the holding ground is good. When we first visited the bay, in 1851, there was no sign of 'the trees mentioned by Vizcaino, nor did the Spanish population have any traditions about the u. His description of "elmonte" applies with great directness to La Loma. Kohl blunders very badly about Taraval's " Bahia de San Xavier," and says that "probably it is the small bay now known as San Diego Harbor." Wo have shownthat it was the great gulf of Sebastian Vizcaino lying east- ward of Cerros Island. FEREELO. people like the Spaniards. They manifested much fear. This same day at night they went on shore from the ships to fish with a net, and it appears that there wero here some Indians, and they began to discharge arrows and wounded three men. The next day, in tho morning, they entered farther within the harbor, which is large, with the "boat, and thsy brought away two boys, who understood nothing by signs, and they gave them both shirts, and immediately sent them away. And tho following day, in the mdrning, there came to the ship three full-grown Indians, and bysigns they said that there wore travelling in the interior men like us, with beards, and clothed and armed like thoie of the ships, and they made signs that thoy carrictf cross-bow and swords, and made gestures with the right arm, as if they were throwing lances, and went runn ing in a posture as if rid- ing on horseback, and made signs that they killed many of the native Indians, and that for this they were afraid. • This people are well-disposed and advanced; they go covered with the skins of animals. Being in this port, there passed a very great tempest, but on account of the harbor being good, they suffered nothing. It was a vio- lent storm from the west-southwest and south-southwest. This is the first storm which they have experienced. They were in this port until the following Tuesday. Here Christians were called Guacamal. Ensenada (.de Santa Caihaliua), Vizcaino. Sau Pedro Bay, latitude 33° 43'. To Vizcaino this great bight embraced the low country north and east of San Pedro Bay, which land ho did not see. On his chart he places Santa Catalina Island broad oft' the Bay of San Pedro. Kohl thinks that San Pedro Bay is tho Baia de Fumos o.f Cabrillo, but we will show that it ia Santa Monica. Bay. The following Tuesday, on the third day of the month ef October, they departed from this port of San Miguel, and Wednesday and Thursday and Friday they pro- ceeded on their course, about eighteen leagues along the coast, on which they saw many valleys and much level ground, and many largo smokes, and, in the interior, mountains. La Isla de San Salvador, Ferrelo. La Isla do Santa Cathalina, Vizcaino. Santa Catalina Island, in latitude 33°2Ci', at Isthmus Cove. The island is eighteen miles from the mainland at San Pedro and twenty-three and a half miles from Point Lasuen. La Isla do la Vittoria, Ferrelo. San Clemente Island ; the latitude of the southeast head is 32° 49'. These islands were named after the sbips; tho former They wero at dusk near some islands, which are about seven leagues from the mainland, and because tho wind had died out they could not reach them this night. Saturday, the seventh day of tho month of October, they arrived at the islands at daybreak, which they named San Salvador and La Vittoria, and they anchored off oiio of them, and they went with the boat on shore to see if people were there, and as the boat approached, a great number of Indians issued from among tho bushes and grass, yelling and dancing and making signs that they should come ashore ; and they saw that the women wen' UNITED STATES COAST AKD GEODETIC SUEVEY. 195 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. trees; some shrubs resembling rosemary, and a great variety of fragrant and wboresome plants. The top of this hill commanded a view of the whole harbor which appeared very great and very commodious, and well sheltered from every wind (p. 86). The hill borders this harbor on the northwest and is about three leagues in length, and a half a league in breadth. And to the northwest ofthis hill is another good harbor. ' • * The_y obtained there water from a sandy beach or a little island of sand, where they dug deep trenches, iii which, during the flood the water was fresh and good ; but on the ebb salt. * * * Most of the Indians painted of besmeared with blaols and white ; and their heads were' loaded with feathers. * » * They signified by signs that a certain people up the country had beards and were clothed like' the Spaniards (p. 88) ; and by their dress, complexions, and customs seemed to be of the same country with the visitors. * ' ' ' ' In this harbor there is a great variety of fish, as oysters, mussels, lobsters, soles, &c., and the cuunfery abounded in game. » » * They were highly delighted with the mildness of the climate, and the goodness of the soil. * * * "Everything being completed, * * » they left this place on the twentieth of November (p. 89). " They had no sooner left San Diego, than the northwest xrind ooramenoed to blow (p. 89). Little by little, how- ever, the ships advanced, and came in sight of a great gulf, where the neighboring country presented a -very pleasant appearance. And as they proceeded they saw also the smoke of large fires which the Indians hadkin- dled, to induce the ships to put in there. But on ap- proaching the coast, found no shelter from the northwest wind ; they therefore continued their course, and a few leagues further discovered (p. 90) a great island about twelve leagues from the mainland, and for the day of its discovery, they called it the Isla de Santa Cathalina. On the 28th of November the ships came close in with it, and from thence had sight of a much larger one lying to the southwest of Santa Cathalina. They, however, thought proper not to survey it till their return (p. 90). [Then follows a long description of the inhabitants, &c.] (P. 94) " This island, like most of those adjacent, is very populous. * * * Thisislandhasseveralgood harbors, abundance of fine fish, especially large and good sar- 196 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. after the flag-ship, thoCapitaua, and the latter after the tender, the Almiranta. These two islands are lafge, very high, and visible far out at sea. I have seen the former from the ridge of Point Loma. Santa Cataliua Island is eighteen miles long, with an extreme breadth of seven miles, and an average breadth of four miles. Its general direction is W. by N. f N., magnetic. It rises to 2,110 feet above the sea, and is visi- ble at a distance of fifty-three miles. It is very rugged, covered largely with dense chaparral, and is nearly di- vided into two islands towards the western end. San Clemente Island is also eighteen miles long, and not over three and ahalf miles broad ; it rises to 1,964 feet elevation, and is visible at a distance of fifty miles. It lies nearly parallel with Cataliua, and directly south ; its north point is only nineteen miles from the nearest part of Catalina. Neither island has been inhabited by Indians since the country has been .settled by Americans, and the signs of former populations are much less than on Santa Rosa and Sau Miguel. For further descriptions see Davidson's Coast Pilot. Ferrelo evidently anchored off the north side of Santa Catalina Island. Vizcaino does not mention San Clemente by name, but describes it as a larger island lying to the southwest, and to be surveyed on the return of the expedition from the north. He has not placed it on his chart. On his plan of Catalina Island he clearly indicates the locality of the great depression ; and a small circle de- notes the position of the so-called Temple to the Sun, &c. La Bahia de los Fumos, 35°, Ferrelo. La Bahia de las Fuegos, Ferrelo. La Bahia Onai a corruption of La Ballona, a rancho bordering this bay. Santa Monica Bay, namedfrom the Sierra Santa Monica. Latitude of Point Dume on the northern shore of the bay 34° 00' ; correction to Ferrelo,— 1° 00'. I feel sure that he made the land of this bay near Point Dume, where there is shelter, and where there were large rancherias of the Indians to a very late date. Vizcaino does not mention this bay, but it is plainly indicated on his chart, as well as the cape formed by San Pedro Hill, 1,475 feet elevation. Ferrelo does not mention San Pedro Bay, but Vizcaino calls it an Eusenada, embracing Santa Catalina Island; and his chart gives it great breadth, and notes the rooky islet called Deadman's Island. This islet is the El Morro of the later Spanish charts. This part of the coast is sharply backed on the north by the almost inaccessible mountains of the Sieri-a Santa Monica. To this day they may be said to have no trails through them. FERRELO. running away, and from the boats they made signs that they should have no fear, and immediately they assumed confidence and laid on the ground their bows and arrows, and they launched a good canoB in the water, which held eight or ten Indians, and 'they came to the ships. They gave them beads and little presents, with which they were delighted, and they presently went away. The Spaniards afterwards went ashore and were very secure, they and the Indian women and all. Here an old Indian made signs to them that on the mainland men were jour- neying, clothed and with beards like the Spaniards. They were in this island only until noon. The following Sunday, on the eighth of the said mouth, they caine near the mainland in a great bay which they named la Bahia delos Fumos ; on account of the numer- ous smokes wh ich they saw around it. Here they h eld in- tercourse with some Indians, whom they took in a canoe, who made signs that towards the north were Spaniards like them. This bay is in thirty-five degrees, and is a good harbor, and the country is good, with many valleys and plains, and trees. Laguna Mugu, latitude 34<: 05'. This is a moderately large estero under the northwest- erly coast termination of the Sierra Santa Monica, where it crowds over the broad low plains of the Santa Clara Valley. There is a good anchorage off the mouth of the estero. See 'Davidson'sCoastPilotof California, Oregon, aud Washington.' The following Monday, on the ninth day of the said month of October, they departed from la Bahia de los luegos, and proceeded this day about six leagues, and anchored at a large inlet. dXITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 197 CABRILLO. • ULLOA. AND VIZCAINO. (llneei. » * » xiie sea wolves serve the ludiaus botli for food and clothing. * » » After taking a survey of several parts of this Island, the squadron left it on the third of Dtoember, 1602. 198 UNITED STATES OOASl AIJTD GEODETIC SUIIVET. DAVIDSON. It is fifteen miles west of Point Duuio, From Mugu to San Buenaventura the coast-line^ is, nineteen miles, and the last eight miles runs northwest. This is the only coast-line in this section with this direction -and with such a well-marked valley. Los Pueblos de las Cauoas, 3,")^°, Cabrillo. El Pueblo de las Cfanoas, 35i°, Ferrelo. ("Which is called Xucu.") Ferrelo, page 84. San Buenaventura, in latitude 34° 17' ; correction to Ferrelo,— 1° 03'. San Buenaventura lies under the seaward face of the mountains, at the extreme western edge of the broad, low, flat valley of Santa Clara. The Santa Clara River empties into the ocean four or five miles eastwardly of San Buenaventura, while ou the immediate west empties the San Buenaventura River, after coming through a smaller and narrow valley among the mountains. The wood, fresh water, open bay, i^laius ou one side and river on the other would make this a favorable location for a large village. Ferrolo's description is very satisfaototy, aud it will not suit any other locality in this immediate region. Vizcaino sailed past this part of the coast with favor- able winds, and did not anchor anywhere in the archi- pelago, except at Santa Catalina ; but he notes the pro- jecting shore-line at Point Hueuome, and to the west of it lays down on his chart a large "fresh-water river," which may be either the Santa Clara or the San^Buena- ventura, more likely the former. He held short commu- nication with the chief of the Indians. The founding of the Mission of San Buenaventura w uld indicate that large numbers of Indians were in the vicinity, and that the place had superior inducements for sustaining the establishment aud recruiting prose- lytes. • The name Taq^uimine seems to be the original of the present Hueneme, and is locally referred to the name of a celebrated chief. Mugu (Point Mugu) is quite likely the original name of one of their villages, although it may be from the Span- ish muga, which really designates the character of the point. We may here premise that hence to Point Coucepcion Ferrelo gives the dislance at thirty leagues, whereas it is only between twenty and twenty-one leagues, and we may reasonably be. guided in the adoption of this scale through tho Santa Barbara Channel, becausehehad pleas- ant weather and light variable winds throughout. But pending that examination along the main shore I refer to the other two islands not seen by Cabrillo and Ferrelo. La Isla de Santa Barbara, Vizcaino's chart. SantaTBarbara Island. lie has not mentioned it individually in his narrative. It is laid down as a small island in a relatively correct position. His name is retained., This island is in lati- tude 33° 30', and rises 547 feet above the sea ; it can be seen a distance of twenty-seven miles. La Isla de San Nicolas, Vizcaino. San Nicolas Island. The southeast point is in latitude 33° 16'. It is not FERRELO. and they passed on thence the following day, Tuesday, and proceeded about eight leagues on a coast northwest and southeast, and they saw on the land a village of In- dians near the sea, and the houses large, in the manner of those of New Spain ; and they anchored in front of a very large valley on the coast. Here came to the ships many very good canoes, which held in each one twelve or thirteen Indians, and they gave them information oi Christians who were journeying in the interior. The coast is from northwest to southeast. Here they gave them some presents, with which they were very much pleased. They made signs that in seven days they could go where the Spaniards were travelling, and Juan Rodriguez was determined to send two Spaniards to the interior. They also made signs that there was a great river. With these Indians they sent a letter at a venture to the Christians. They gave the name to this village of el Pueblo de las Canoas. They go covered with some skins of animals ; they are fishermen, and eat the fish raw ; they also eat agaves. This village is in thirty-five and one-third de- grees. The country within is a very beautiful valley, and they made signs that there was in that valley much maize and much food. There appear within this valley some mountains very high, and the land is very rugged. They call Christians Taquimine. Here they took posses- sion : here they remained until Friday, the thirteenth of the said month. TJNITBD STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. , 199 CABRILLO. . ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. Tuesday, on the tenth of Ootoher, they discovered some villages of peaceable Indians, with whom they traded, which they named los Pueblos de las Canoas, because they had a great many canoes, and they are in thirty and five degrees and a third; 200 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. mentioned in Ms narrative, but is on his chart, where it is placed close alongside and to the westward of Santa Barbara Islaild, and even smaller. He has either com- mitted the error that Tebenkoff has done in his atlas (1848) of laying down Santa Barbara as two islets, or he saw only the highest point of San Nicolas Island, which is 890 feet above the sea and visible at a distance of thirty- four miles. Supposing that he sailed from the north har- bor of Santa Catalina Island to the throat of the Santa Barbara Channel (reckoned as lying between Anacapa Island and Point Hueneme), he passed not nearer than fifteen miles to Santa Barbara Island and forty-two miles to San Nicolas Island. The former is visible in clear weather with a sharp lookout ; the latter is not visible unless by extraordinary refraction. As Vizcaino gives a graphic description of his passage through the Santa Barbara Channel, we interrupt Fer- relo's narrative to condense it. Th§ Islands of the Santa Barbara Channel. To the broad passage between the mainland from Point Hueneme to Point Concepcion and the islands from Ana- papa to San Miguel, Vizcaino (p. 95) gives the name El Canal de Santa Barbara. He is the first to call attention to the parallelism of these islands with the continental shore. This channel is sixty-five miles long nearly east and west, and ranges from eleven to twenty-six miles in breadth. His statement that there are six islands in this channel must include the islands which he named San Nicolas and Santa Barbara, and which are laid down by hini half way between Santa Catalina Island and Anacapa. His chart gives a very fair representation ^of the archipelago and its relation to the mainland. This archipelago is now known as the Santa Barbara Islands, ■ and embraces all of them from San Miguel to San Nico- las and San Clemente. FERRELO. Cabrillo's vessels left Buenaventura and reached the "Eincon," latitude 34° 22', four leagues west of San Buenaventura. This coast is bordered by high and steep mountains, the water is alkali, and it was doubtless but sparsely inhabited. Friday, the thirteenth of the said month of October, they departed from the Pueblo de las Canoas on their voyage, and proceeded this day six or seven leagues, and passed two large islands which extend four leagues each one, and are four leagues from the continent. They are uniuhabitecl, because there is no water on them ; and they have good ports. UNITED STATES COAST AND aEODETIC SURVEY. 201 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. (Pp. 94,95.) Beyond Santa Catalina there is a irgn- ]ar row of islands from four to six leagues distant from eacli other. Some are large and others small, hut all arc populous, and the inhabitants trade with each other and with those of the continent. These islands take up from the first one to the last oue, nearly a distance of one hundred leagues ; and they follow each in the same di- rection as the mainland; and their number, largeness, and proximity often occasion the Philipine ships in their return to New Spain, to mistake them for the Continent ; and thus to keep at a distance from them. They are, how- ever, very populous, and have a safe passage betwixt them and the mainland, in some parts twelve, in others ten, and the narrowest eight leagues broad, called el Canal de Santa Barbara, and which lies Eagt and West. The ships being arrived near the continent, at the mouth of this Canal, a boat came off with four paddles, bringing an Indian, who was the King of the Coast on the mainland. * ' ' Within an hour after the Indian was gone, a south- east wind sprang up, and was the only gale from that quarter they had felt during their voyage. And it being directly fair, the General thought proper to defer his visit to the Indian King till his return. " ' * Accordingly they set all their sails, and as the gale lasted from seven in the evening of the 3rd of December till eight o'clock the day following (p. 98), the ships had nearly reached the last cluster of islands in the Canal, which are six in number, and distant two leagues from each other. The Canal is about twenty-four leagues in length, and the coast of the continent very pleasantly interspersed with woods, and has a great number of Indian Villages. In the night following the day of Santa Barbara the wind shifted to the northwest, which caused great consterna- tion, it being dark, and the ships among islands and in the channel where the sea ran very high. This gale lasted all night and the following two days ; on the third it abated; but they had lost sight of their consort among the islands. on the day of San Nicolas. With fair weather the ships sailed out of this archipelago. * * * H. Ex. 40 -26 202 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. DAVIDSON. La Isla cle geute Barbada, Vizcaino's chart. •Aiiacapa Island, latitude 34° 01'. This island is distinctly visible from San Buenaventura, and is distant seventeen miles, although not nearly so ' large as mentioned by Ferrelo. It is four and a half miles long but very narrow, and presents its broad side to the northern shore west of San Buenaventura. In approach- ing it from the east, from under Point Dume, it is seen projected on the Island of Santa Cruz, and cannot be dis- tinguished from it if the atmosphere is very clear. In this case the whole mass of the two islands, and even a part of Santa Eosa to the south, will show as one very large island, and when seen from San Buenaventura it might be supposed that only the end was visible towards the observer, and thus a stranger would be misled in hia estimate of the size, &c. The island is merely a great ridge of coarse sandstone rock reaching 9£0 feet elevation, barren, desolate, without water and without a harbor. When Vizcaino was ap- proaching it he must have supposed it was a great island, and ho even lays it down on his chart with its greater length to the southwest. The second island seen by Cabrillo "is La Isla de San Ambrosio of Vizcaino's chart, with a rocky islet laid down oif its eastern point. This- is the Island of Santa Cruz, of which the eastern point is in latitude 34° 02'. Ferrelo has evidently confused the characteristics of the two islands, because he visited neither, saw them under changing aspects, and got his Information frpin the Indians by signs. .... The name Anacapa is a corruption of Vancouver's In- dian name of the island. In his text he names it Euneea- pah, but the engraver has spelled it Eneoapah on the chart, and subseque.ut compilers have endeavored to give it a Spanish form. The Indian deep guttural pronnncia- iion is En-ui-ah-pagh'. FEEEELO. The yessels left the Eincon where the low lands of the Carpiuteria begin and stretch westwardly for ten miles to Santa Barbara Point. He anchored oflf the Carpiute- ria, latitude 34° 524', about a mile west of Sand Point. Ferrclo's description is satisfactory. From the Carpiuteria the vessels continued- past Santa Barbara (at-six and a half miles from bis starting point) with its protecting hill, La Vigia, and the rocky cliffs of the mesa for five miles to the westward of the anchor- age ; past the low shore and treeless mesa cut by the lagoons behind. Point Goleta ; and anchored about four or five miles west of the latter place, probably inside the great field of kelp skirting the coast ; latitude 34° 25'. The coast of the mainland runs west-northwest; the country is level, with many cabins and trees ; and the fol- lowing Saturday they continued on their course, and pro- ceeded two leagues, no more, and they anchored opposite a valley very beautiful and very populous, the land being level with many trees. Here came canoes with fish to barter ; they remained great friends. And the Sunday following, the fifteenth day of the said month, they held on their voyage along the coast about ten leagues, and there were always many canoes, for all this coast is very populous, and many Indians were con- tinually coming aboard the ships, and they pointed out to us the villages and named them by their names, which are Xuon, Bis, Sopono, Alloc, Xabaagua, Xotococ, Potol- tuc, Nacbuc, Quelqueme, Misinagua, C°) Misesopano, El- quis, Coloc, Mugu, Xagua, Anaobuo, Partooao, Susuquey, ■Quanmu, Gua, Asimu, Again, Casalio, Tucumu, Incpnpu. All these villages extend from the first, Pueblo de las Canoas, which is called Xuou, as far as this place ; they are in a very good country, with very good plains and many trees and cabins ; they go clothed with skins; they said that inland there were many towns, and much maizo at three days' distance ; they call the maize Oep ; and also that there were many cows. They call the cows Cae ; they also gave us uocice of some people with beards, and UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 203 OABEILLO. ULLOA AND VJZC'AlNO. 204 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. La Isla tie San Lucas, Ferrelo. Las Islas de San Lucas, Ferrelo. (See pp. 205, 226, 228.) • They supposed tbat Santa Cfnz Island and Santa Eosa Itiland were one, liecause ihej saw them overlapped. They afterwards discovered them to he two islands, refer- ring in January, lC;4o, to Santa Cruz Island as "the other islands of San Lucas," which the Indians called Limu or Limun, and to which the discoverers gave the name of San Salvador, forgetting that Santa Catalina had already re- ceived that name irom them. It is the present Santa Cruz Island. The highest peak is Mt. Diahlo (Devil's Peak), which is 2,410 feet ahove the sea, and is visible at a distance of fifty-five miles. The six villages which Fer- relo here names have not a single correspondent in the names of the thirteen villages which he subsequently learned to be on the three western islands. On the 16th of October they sailed from the anchorage (four or five miles west of Goleta Point or eleven miles west of Santa Barbara Light-house) to an anchorage twenty or twenty-one miles west of the same light-house, and very likely abreast the opening of the Canada del Eefngio, in latitude 34° S7'. On the 17th they got as far as abreast the GaviotaPass, latitude 34° 28', where Ferrelo mentions getting large quantities of fresh sardines. If anchored just inside the kelp-field they would be in a fairly good position. During these two days and the next Ferrelo does not mention seeing the Santa Barbara Islands; they may have been obscured by fog, for in a few days they dis- cover San Miguel and Santa Rosa Islands. Gaviota an- chorage is twelve miles east of Point Concepcion. Vizcaino sailed through the Santa Barbara Channel without stopping, but on the main shore, two-thirds of the distance from San Buenaventura to Point Concepcion, ho has made a drawing on his chart to represent "a large Indian town, adding "all this coast is wooded and free from shoals." El Cabo de la Galera, 36i°, Cabrillo. El Cabo de Galera, 36° " and more," Ferrelo. La Punta de la Concepcion. Point Concepcion, or Conception, in latitude 34° 27'; correction to Ferrelo, — 1° 33' "and more;" to Cabrillo, — 2° 03'. Cabrillo's description of the cape is good. It cannot be mistaken for Point Arguello, eleven miles to the north- westward. For a detailed description of this cape, and of Point Arguello, see Davidson's Coast Pilot. Very curiously Vizcaino does not mention this remark- able headland, although he has it on his chart, but not named. La Isla de San Lucas, Ferrelo. (See pp. 206, 226, 228. ) Las Islas de San Lucas, Ferrelo. They had already seen the Island of Santa Rosa, as part of the Island of Santa Cruz when they overlapped and were named San Lucas. Now they discover San Miguel separated from the Island of Santa Rosa, which was supposed to be the western part of San Lucas. Santa Cruz is twenty miles long, Santa Rosa fifteen miles, and thetwo, with the intervening passages, thirty- seven miles, or twelve leagues, which Cabrillo reckoned FERRELO. clothed. They passed this day parallel with the shore of a large island which is fifteen leagues in length, and they said that it was very populous, and that it contained th6 following villages: Niquipos,Maxnl,Xugua,Nitel,Ma- camo, Nimitopai. They named the island San Lnoas ; i"; is from this place to Pueblos de las Canoaa eighteen leagues; the island is from the continent six leagues. Monday, the sixteenth of the said month, sailing along the coast they proceeded four leagues, and anchored in the evening opposite two villages; and also this day canoes were continually coming to the ships, and they made signs that further on there were canoes much larger. The Tuesday following, the seventeenth day of the said month, they proceeded three leagues with fair weather, and there were with the ship from daybreak many canoes,' and the Captain continually gave them many presents; and all this coast where they have passed is very popu- lous; they brought with them a large quantity of fresh sardines very good; they say that inland there are many villages and ;nuoh food; these people did not eat any maize; they went clothed with skins, and wear their hair very long and tied up with cords very long and placed within J;he hair, and these strings have attached many small daggers of flint and wood and bone. The land is very excellent in appearance. Wednesday, the eighteenth of the said month, they went running along the coast until ten o'clock, and saw all the coast populous, and because a fresh breeze sprung up the canoes did not come. They came to a point which forms a cape like a galley, and they named it Cabo de Galera, and it is in a little over thirty and ^x degrees, and bechuse there vvas a fresh northwest wind they stood off from the shore and discovered two islands, the one large, which has eight leagues of coast running east and west; the other has four leagues, and in this small one there is a good port, and they are peopled ; they are ten leagues from the continent ; they are called las Islas de San Lucas. From the mainland towards Cabo de Ga- lera the shore trends west by north, and from Pueblo de las Canoas to Cabo de Galera there is a very populous province, and they call it Xoxu ; it has many languages UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 205 CABRILI.O. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. and having sailed little in several days, on account of the too fine weather, the Wednesday, of the eighteenth of the said month, they arrived at a long point, which forms a cape, and on account of its length like a galley, they named it el Cabo de la Galera:"thi3 is in thirty and six degrees and a half. and because the wind wasnorthwtst fresh they were car- ried to leeward by the sea and Ihey discovered two islands, the one of eight leagnes of coast East West, and the other of four; in this they discovered a port small, very good ; they found them very populous ; and these people, and all those of the coast passed bj', lived by fishing, and mahe beads from 1 he Lonesof fishcp, to trade with the other people of the mainland, and tbey are ten leagues from the Cabo de Galera : running west quarter to the northwest. iDuring the tight days tbcy remained 206 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. DAVIDSON. eight leagues. San Miguel is seven and a half miles long, or two and a half leagues, whereas Cabrillo reckons it four leagues. Santa Eosa is the Isla de Cleto of Vizcaino. From San Buenaventura to Point Concepcion the trend of the coast-line is a very little north of west, and the distance is actually twenty leagues. I suppose they pro- pose to give ouly the general direction of the coast. La Isla de la Posesion, Cabrillo. La Isla de Posesion, Ferrelo. Una de las Islas de San Lucas, Ferrelo. La Isla de Baxos, Vizcaino's chart. Ciquimuymu, Indian, Ferrelo. San Miguel Island ; the latitude of the anchorage is 34° 03' (see p. 226). Ferrelo named the island La Isla de Juan Rodriguez after Cahrillo's death. El Puerto de la Posesion, Cabrillo, Ferrelo. Cuyler's Harbor. (See pp. 204, 226, 236.) This is the largest and best harbor around the Island of San Miguel. It is a moderately large bay on the north- east face. Its extent is a little more than one mile be. tween the eastern and the western heads, and about two- thirds of a mile deep. It has bold shores and approaches, and a large rocky islet half a mile north of the eastern head. This isle,t is five hundred yards in extent and 303 feet high, with a precipitous face to the north-northwest. Across the mouth of the harbor stretches a dense field of kelp having six fathoms of water throughout the greater part of it, but marked by two reefs and rooks near the middle, and almost in line between the heads. There are other rocky patches in the eastern part of the harbor. Vessels coming into the harbor from the northwest pass within half a mile of the western head, through the kelp, at a distance of only three hundred yards from the cliffs, and then haul towards the western bight of the bay, where they anchor in five fathoms of water, over hard bottom, but protected from all save the north and east winds, which rarely blow. The heavy swell from the strong northwest winds reaches well into the anchorage. (See p. 236.) Vessels cannot easily enter by the eastern passage un- less familiar with the dangers and currents. Water is found at one place on the steep southern hill face, and during winter water drains down the gully at the western part of the long beach southeast from the anchorage. The summit of the island lies only a mile southward of the anchorage, and is about seven hundred feet above the sea. It is in latitude 34° 02'. There is not much veg- etation upon the island, and the south and western part is swept by sand driving from the ocean beach. The evidences are very strong of there having been a very large Indian population on this island, and doubt- less the fishing was good among the kelp-fields and rooky patches off the west and nojthwest parts of the island. They may have been in the broad bight between Point Concepcion and Point Arguello. FEKEELO. different from each other; they have many great wars with each other; it is from El Pueblo de las Canoas to El Cabo de Galera thirty leagues; they were in these islands until the following Wednesday, because it was very stormy. Wednesday, the twenty-fifth of the said month, they departed from the said islands, from "the one which was more to the windward; it has a very good port, so that from all the storms of the sea no damage will be suffered by those within its shelter ; they called it La Posesion. This day they advanced little, as the wind was not fa- vorable; and in the middle of the following night they had a \?ind, south-southwest and west-southwest, with rain, so that they saw themselves in difficulty, for it was an on-shore wind and they were near the land, and they could not double the cape on one tack or the other ; and the following Thursday at vespers the wind veered to'the south, and they proceeded on their course ten leagues to a UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 207 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. they were well treated by the Indians, every one going naked, and they have their faces painted in the manner of a chess hoard ; to tJiis port they gave the name de la Posesioni Wednesday, on the twenty-fifth, they sailed with fine weather from this Puerto de la Posesion, with wind south- west, and the following day they had it south, and south- west, with rain showers, and fog, and they had a rough time, the wind blowing on shore, being near the coast and a heavy swell running. i08 gNlTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. DAVIDSON. The coast north of Point Arguello to San Luis Obispo Bay has a general trend north and south (true) for a dis- tance of thirty-six miles. Point Sal is eleven leagues from Point Coucepcion, fol- lowing the grand trend of the coast, and they ■were prob- ably between Point Purisima and Point Sal. Point Purisima is in latitude 34° 47'. Point Sal is in latitude 34° 54'. The Purisima Eiver is in latitude 34° 42', just north of the bold Point Arguello. (See p. 210.) This river was certainly the Purisima, emptying just north of Point Arguello and linown on the State map as the Santa Ynez. It comes through large valleys north of the Santa Ynez range, and from seaward the country has the appearance of needing a large river for drainage. Vancouver in sailing past it recorded that it seemed to give t"Ue indications of Oi greater river than any since he had left the Columbia. The town of Xexo, Ferrelo. This was at the opening of the valley lying upon the Coxo anchorage. There is water in the valley at all sea- sons, and some oak trees, but wood was not plenty in 18£0 when we were encamped here for more than three months. FEERELO. coast running north-northwest and south-southeast; all this coast is inhabited and in appearance good land; this night they kept out to sea, for they had an on-shore wind, and the Friday and Saturday following they were beating about on one tack or the other with foul winds, and could gain nothing, and they were in thirty and six degrees and a half, ten leagues from Cabo de Galera; and in the same manner they held on during Monday arid Tuesday to the thirty-first of the said month, the eve of All Saints' Day, beating about on one tack and the. other ; and they wished to approach the mainland in search of a great river of which they had notice, which was on the other side of the Cabo de Galera, and because there were on land many indications of rivers, and yet they found no river. Nor did they anchor here for the coast vras very bold. They found during this month on this coast the weather as in Spain,,from thirty-four degrees and uj)- wards, and with much cold mornings and evenings and with storms, dark and cloudy weather, and the air heavy. Wednesday, at midnight, on the first day of Novem- ber, standing off, a strong wind from the north-north- west struck them, which did not let them carry a palm of sail, and by the dawn of day freshened so much that they cquld do no less than seek shelter, and they took refuge under Cabo de Galera and anchored there and went on shore, and because there was a large town which they called Xexo, and wood did not appear to be much at hand, they decided to go to Pueblo de las Sardinas, because there water and wood were very near and aooes- El Puerto de Todos Santos, Ferrelo. El Coxo anchorage in latitude 34° 28'. There can be no doubt about this port and anchorage being the same ; and although Kohl says this anchorage was east of Cape Coucepoion, yet he confounds it with San Luis Obispo, which is thirty-six miles to the north- ward. sible. yrhey called this shelter under Galera Puerto de Todos Santos. El Pueblo de las Sardinas, Cabrillo. Los Pueblos de las Sardinas, Ferrelo. El Puerto de las Sardinas, 35J°, Ferrelo. (See pp. 210, 228.) Cioacut, the Indian name, Ferrelo. The Gaviota Anchorage off the Gaviota Pass ; latitude 34° 27' ; correction to Ferrelo,— 1° 13'. It was at this an- chorage where they got so many fresh sardines on the 17th of the month. It should be noted that it was their last anchorage before reaching Point Concepcion. This gives us seventeen villages, including that at the Coxo, in a distance of eleven miles, exactly oue village to each streamlet from the Gaviota Pass to the Coxo. Xucu : elsewhere Ferrelo says this province of Xucn extends from San Buenaventura to Point Concepcion. The following Thursday they went to Pueblos de las Sardinas, where they were taking in water and wood three days, and the natives of the country aided them and brought wood and water to the ships. This village of the Puerto de las Sardinas is called Cicacut, and the others, which are from this place to Cabo de Galera, are Ciuout, Anacot, (') Maquinanoa, Paltatre, Anacoat, Ole- smo, Coaacat, (») Paltocac, Tocane, Opia, Opistopia, Nocos, Yutum, Quiman, Miooma, Garomisopona. An old Indian woman is princess of these villages, who came to the ships and slept two nights in the Captain's ship, and the same did many Indians. The village of -Ciucut ap- peared to be the capital of the other villages, as they came therefrom other villages at the call of the princess ; the village which is at the cape is called Xexo. From this port to Pueblo de las Canoas there is another province which they call Xucu (s) ; they have their houses round, and covered very well down to the ground ; they go cov- UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUliVEY. 201) CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. Friday, Saturday, and Suuday on the twenty-ninth, they kept under way, with the wind from all quarters, with much difficulty. Monday and Tuesday, of the thirty-first, they had show- ers and cloudy weather. Wednesday, the first of November, at midnight, head- ing towards the shore they had much wind northwest, which did not allow them to carry a palm of sail, and they returned around the Cabo de la Galera, which af- fords good protection from this wind. > And Thursday, on the second of the same mouth, they were at the Pueblo de Sardinas, having sailed along forty leagues of laud very well populated, and with good peo- ple ; aud from one village, near this port, there came the priucip.al peoijle aboard the ship, and they dauced to the sound of a drum, and a iiute of the Castiiians, and they slept on board, and during these festivities they took in water, and wood, and their houses were large, with dou- ble sloping roofs, like those of New Spain, and their bury- ing grounds were surrounded with boards: they give the name Sejo to this province : they ate acorns, hazel nuts, and fish : they said that farther ou there were peo- ple with clothes on. H.Bx. 40 27 210 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVET. DAVIDSON. Cabrillo says this province is named Sejo. Tlio name Coxo, or Cojo, is evidently derived from these words. (See tlie Coxo anchorage.) "Tamales," a well-kno.wn Spanish article of food, pre- pared by boiling some kind of flesh, rolled in thin sheets of dough, and wrapped in the husks of the maize. It is sold in San Francisco under the same name. El Puerto do las Sardiuas, 35f °, Ferrelo. The Gaviota Anchorage is in latitude 34° 27' ; correc- tion to Ferrelo,— 1° 13'. (See p. 208. ) Kohl says this harbor is to the eastward of Cape Cou- eopcion, and yet ho adds, in clear contradiction, that it " is perhaps the place now known as San Simeon," which is to thQ northward of Point Conoepeion. Compare with Vizcaino's description of the religious (?) eeremonies at the Great Depression of Santa Catalina Island (pp. 90-94) of the Noticia, etc. lil Eio de Nuestra Senorq,, Cabrillo. (See p. 208.) The Purisima River, in latitude 34° 42'. (See David- son's Coast Pilot for description and for the variety of names it has had.) At the iirst attempt Ferrelo said ten leagues, and he was then between Point Purisima and Point Sal. Twenty leagues beyond this position, at six leagues from the coast which they would appear to be gradually avoiding, as the southeaster was coming up. Estei-osSay: The latitude of the haystack shaped EI Morro, which is in the middle of this bay, is 35° 22'; its elevation is 573 feet, and it forms a notable landmark abreast the entrance to Morro Bay. There is no harbor for shelter on this part of the coast from the southerly gales of winter; but there is protec- tion from the summer winds under the northern shores of Esteros Bay, San Luis Obispo Bay, and San Simeon Bay. Vizcaino appears to have been closer in shore and to have recognized those bights. Las Sierras de Sau Martin, 37|°, Cabrillo, 37 -Jo, Ferrelo. La Sierra do Santa Lucia, Vizcaino. Cape San Martin, lal^itnde 35° 54'; correction to Cii- brillo and Ferrelo, — 1° 36'. (See pp. 212, 224, 226.) I"hey were nearly abreast Las Piedras Blancas and Sau Simeon Bay, behind which rise the massive peaks of Rocky Butte, in latitude 35° 41', 3,400 feet above the sea and visible at sixty-iive miles; and Pine Mountain, in latitude. 35° 42', 3,500 feet above the sea and visible at sixty-six miles ; they are only three miles apart. These form the southern part of the bold, compact, aud un- broken line of high mountains hence to Point Pinos. It is the highest and the boldest range of coast mountains along this Pacific seaboard, reaching 6,200 feet elevation at Santa Lucia Mountain and 5,100 feet at Cone Mount- ain or the Twin Peaks. The former is only ten miles from the coast-line and the latter only four or Jive miles. From his description he was distant about twenty -five miles, nearly south, of the presentCape San Martin, which FERRELO. ered with the skins of many kinds of animals; they eat oak acorns, and a grain which is as large as mai^e, and is white, of which they make tamales ; it is good food. They say that inland there is much maize, and that men - like us are travelling there : this port is in thirty and five degrees and two-thii'ds. ^ Monday, the sixth of the said month of November, they departed from the said port of Sardinas, and that day they made hardly,any progress, and until the following Friday they held on with littlo wind. This day they reached Cabo de Galera ; through all this course they could not make use of the Indians who came to board them with water and fish and showed much good dispo- sition; they have in their villages their large public commons, aud they have an inclosure like a circle, aud around the inclosure they have many blocks of stone fastened in the ground, which project about three palms, and in the middle of the inclosares they have sticks of timber driven into the ground like masts, and very thick ; and they have many pictures on these same posts, and we believe that they worship them, for when they dance they go dancing around the inclosure. The Saturday following, the day of San Martin, on the eleventh of the said month of November, they proceeded, sailing along the land and they found themselves this morning twelve leagues from the cape, in the same place where they arrived first; and all this day they had a good wind so that thoy sailed along a coast, running northwest aud sontheast full twenty leagues; all this coast which they passed this day is a bold coast without any shelter whatever, and there extends a Cordillera of sierra along the wliole of it, very lofty, and it is as high by the sea as on the land within ; the sea boats upon it ; they saw no popula- tion nor smokes, and all the coast, which has no shelter on the north, is uninhabited ; they named the mountain las Sierras de San Martin ; they are in thirty and seven degrees and a half; UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. CABRXLLO. TTLLOA AND VIZCAINO. 211 Chapter IV. Which continues tlw disooveriea of the two vessels of Dan An- tonio die Mendofa in the South Sea. Saturday, on the eleventb, they were coasting, ■with a sontheast wind and continually they were looliing for el Bio de Nuestra Sefiora, and did not find it, " This fair weather enahled the ships to get away from the islands ; and standing in for the continent to take a draught of the coast, they found it extremely high and mountainous. hut with some well sheltered hays, from one of which' came four rush canoes." » » * [0n his chart he lays down the large bight forming Esteros Bay with the notable Morro in the middle of its length, and the entrance to Morro Bay, but he gives no name.] "Here they had a formidable gale which lasted until the 14th of December; but a great range of mountains very high, with many trees, to which they gave thename Las Sierrasde San Mar- tin, and they are in thirty and seven degrees and a half. ■and the weather clearing up a little in the daytime, the ships found themselves near a wry high and white ridge of mountains ; but reddish towards the base, and covered with woods. This range thsy call the Sierra de Santa Lu- cia ; it'is the usual landfall for the China ships (p. 100)." 212 UmTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUKVEY. DAVIDSON. is the great flanking spur or buttress for this luouutain range. He was sixty miles south by east from the termi- nation of the range at Carmel Bay, and the mountains are so high and so near the coast-lino that he could have seen them if the weather permitted ; but it is almost cer- tain that he estimated his latitude and did uot observe it. Even Mount Carmel, north of the Sur, is 4,417 feet above the sea and visible at a distance of seventy-five miles. It is in latitude 33° 22' and is only eight miles in- side of Point Sur. The latitude of the Twin Peaks over- looking Cape Martin is 3(5° 03'. The highest peak is 5,100 feet above the sea and is visible at a distance of eighty miles,, and only four or five miles inshore. We applied the name to Cape Sah Martin some years since to commemorate this landfall of Gabrillo. Point Sur, or The Sur: This is a remarkable rooky looking head, rising 358 feet above the sea, and is con- nected with the mainland by a narrow low neck of sand dunes. See Davidson's Coast Pilot. On his chart Vizcaino has, in this position, a slightly projecting point and the legend "Point appearing as an island." Vancouver thought it was an island. It is in latitude 35° 18'. FERRELO El Rio del Carmelo, Vizcaino. Carmel Bay and River, in latitude 36° 34'. The bay of Carmel is twelve miles northwestward of the island-like point known as " The Sur." The river is a stream of minor importance, and in 1770 a mission was founded on its banks and overlooking the bay. El Cabo do Martin, 38°, Cabrillo, Ferrelo. El Cabo de San Martin, 37^°, Ferrelo. La Punta de Pinos, Vizcaino (p. 101). La Punta de los Pinos, recent charts. Point Pinos, in latitude 36° 38'. (See pp. 210, Hii, 2ii6, 236.) I think their Cabo de Martin, when they wore driven oft' the coast near las Piedras Blancas, was the termina- tion of the mountain range at or near Carmel Bay, in latitude 36° 30'. They could not have seen the pine-clad hill behind Point Pinos at the distauce of sixty miles- But on the return of the expedition they explicitly state that the Cabo de San Martin which they made was in thirty-seven and a half degrees. If we assume this later determination of his positiou to be the better one, the correction to Ferrelo's latitude is, — 1°00'. On his voyage northward Cabrillo was forced by the southeast storm to leave the coast before he sighted Point Pinos, and afterwards he made the land near Fort Ross, in latitude 38° 35'. Vizcaino's description cannot be mistaken. Except that he gives no idea of the height of the pine-covered hill lying between Carmel Bay and Monterey Bay, it de- scribes the point and applies to no other.' EI Puerto de Monte-Roy, Vizcaino. Monterey Harbor, in latitude 36° 31'. This harbor is well protected from the southeast storms which wore those most destructive to the early naviga- tors, and therefore Vizcaino extolled it far beyond its real merits and thus misled Constanzo and others in 1769. the spurs of these and of the sierras on tho northwest form a cape which projects into the sea in thirty and eight degrees ; they named it Cabo de Martin. TJOTTED STATiiib COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. OABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. 213 and at the termination of them, at the north west, it forms a cape ■which is in thirty and eight degrees, and they named it Cape Martin, (P. 100. ) " Four leagues farther a river enters into the sea between some rocks, after a precipitate course from some high and white mountains ; the banks of this stream are covered with black and white poplars, willows, and other trees and brambles known in Spain. This river is called del Carmelo. "Two leagues farther northward of the river Carmelo there is a famous port, and between this and the river there is a forest of pine trees t'tro leagues in extent, and there is a point of land at the entrance to the harbor that is called Punta de Pinos (p. 100). (P. 101. ) "On the 16th of December the squadron i)ut into this port which was called de Monte-Eey (iu houor of Don Antonio de Mendoza, the Count of MonteRey, Viceroy of New Spain ; by whom they had been sent on this Discovery, in the name of his Majesty). « * « (P. ]07,) "This is a very good harbor, and affords good 214 imiTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON, r- Although open to the northwest winils they do not blow home with great forcei > Vizcaino applied the name only to the southeast angle of the bay where the town of Monterey is situated. This is evident from his outline chart, although ho has the general features to the north and nortliTvestward. For a detailed description of the harbor and .bay ^ee David- son's Coast Pilot. Point Alio Nuovo, latitude 37° 06'. Vizcaino has no reference to this low point or to the massive spur behind it in his narative; and no name on his chart, although there is a point faintly indicated in this locality. (See p. 224 ; Black Mountain.) Half Moon Bay, latitude 37° 30'. The indication of this bay is very clear on the chart of Vizcaino, but there is no name given to it, and no refer- ence made to it in the narrative. The general trend of the coast is good. North of Half Moon Bay, Vizcaino's chart says, "the coast is wooded," which is one of its characteristics for a very short distance. La Baia de Pinos, Cabrillo. La Bahia de los Pinos, Ferrelo ; latitude 39° and a "little more.'' La Ensenada de los Farallones, later Spanish authority The Gulf of the Farallones of the U. S. Coast and Geo- detic Survey. (Seep. 222.) Correction to Ferrelo, — 1° 00' and a "little more." This gulf, extending from Point San Pedro, in latitude 37° 35', to Point Eeyes, in latitude 38° 00', and embrac- ing the Farallones de los Frayles, was seen by Cabrillo and Ferrelo, as is shown by 1 heir narratives, on their first return from the northward, ]'"riday, the 16th of Novem- ber, 1542. Whether they intended the name to include this great bight is doubtful, althongh Cabrillo called it a "great gulf," but this may mean ouly the bight between Point Eeyes and Ballenas Point. There are no pines south of those which are on the ridges near Mount Tamalpais* un- til we reach Point San Pedro and then they are sparse until the crest-line is reached about latitude 37° 25'. ' Poftus Novas Albionis, Drake, 38° and 38° 30'. El Puerto de San Francisco, Vizcaino. Sir Francis Drake's Bay. Drake's Bay, latitude 38° 00'. Drake's Bay is a capital harbor in northwest winds, such as Drake encountered. It is easily entered, shel- tered by high lands, and a vessel may anchor in three fathoms close under the shore in good holding ground. Drake's vessel drew thirteen feet of water "to make her swim," and it would appear that when she was leakin" he moved her to the beach and careened her. If ho had been insido the Estcro Limantour,of which he could not have detected the eutranct from his ves- sel, he would necessarily have been very close to either shore. And had he seen it he would not have dared to enter it without sounding it out. It has only thirteen feet of water on the bar at the highest tides, and he would not have hazarded his vessel in entering such a doubtful anchorage. Nor would h e have risked^the pos- ain of BMOhe*' *'^'""""'*''y'^^'' "'« Tamal iDdLins, The Table Mount - FERRELO. UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. 215 DRAKE. ULLOA AND VICZAlXO. protectiou, aud is sheltered from all winds. It has ex- tensive lorests, and an infinite number of very great pines, straight and smooth, fit for masts and yards; like- wise evergreen oaks of a prodigious size proper for building ships. Hero also are rose-trees, white thorns, firs, willows, and poplars; large clear lakes, fine pastures, and arable lands. * » • xhe sea ahouuds with oys- ters, lobsters, crabs, etc. Also huge sea wolves and whales. This harbor is surrouuded with rancherias of Indians, a well-looking affable people; » » * ^yjio expressed great concern when the Captain aud tender sailed out of this harbor on the third of January, 1603, • • • in search of the Cabo Mendocino. "Hero" (p. 116). " They were forcibly carried southward from forty-eight to thirty-eight degrees, where they found the land low' acd plain, with some few hills covered with Snow. June 17th, [1579,] (p. 117) they came to a convenient harbour and continued there till Jnly 23rd, during which, though in the height of Summer, yet they had constant nipping- Cold (neither for fourteen days could they see the Sun for the fogginess of the Air), • » • the Trees being without Leaves, and the Ground without Grass, even in June and July: » * * Tho' the real Cause of this Extremity is uncertaiu, yet it is judged to proceed from the large Continent of America and Asia, near together, northward of this place, from whose high Mountains, al- ways covered with Snow, the North-West Winds, which usually blow on those Coasts, bring this almost unsuf- ferable sharpness, which the Sun in his greatest Heat is not able to dissolve, from whence the Earth is so barren, and the Show lies at their Doors almost in tho midst of Summer, hut is never off their Hills, from whence pro- e«eded those stinking Fogs through whi ch the Sun can- not pierce, nor draw tho Vapors higher into the Air, ex- " The Capitana and Fragata had no sooner left tho harbor of Monterey to seek for the Cabo de Mendocino, than they had a formidable wind which lasted to the sixth of January, the day of the Los [Santos] Reyes, and carried them beyond the Puerto de San Fi-anc^sco. And the day after that of Los Reyes, which was tho 7th of Januarj', the wind suddenly shifted to the northwest and blew sou.ewhat fiercely, but they were able to make some headway ; and the Fragiita concluding there was no ne- cessity to seek a harbor from this wind continued her voyage; and the Capitana thinking they were in com- pany did not show a light ; so in the morning they were not in sight of each other, and the General returned ■ with the Capitana to the Puerto de San Francisco to wait for the Fragata ; but they did not hear of her until they returned to Mexico. Another reason which prompted the Capitana to put into Puerto de San Francisco, was to make a reconnaissance of it, and learn if anything was to he found of the ship San Angustin, which came upon the coast in 1595, * * » under the Pilot Sebastian Rodriguez Cermenoil; and being in this port she was 21(3 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. FEEEELO. sibility of attack from the Indians in buch a contracted place. He doubtless anchored in Drake's Bay, and the reef In his plan represents in a crude manner the reef off the easternmost point of Point Eeyes Head. In a rongh sketch of his anchorage it is called Portus Novas Al- bionis. The "World Encompassed" describes Drake leaving the coast in latitude 43° and going southward, as follows: "And he drew baoke agalne without landing, til we catne within thirtie-eight degrees towards the line. lu which height, it ijleased God to send us into a faire and good bay, with a good wind to enter the same." In the " Hero " the narrator says : " From the height of 48 degrees, in, which now we were, to 38, we found the land, by coasting alongst it, to bee but low and reasonable plaine ; every hill (whereof we saw many, but none verie high), though it were in June, and the Sunne ju his nearest approach onto them, being covered with snow. " In 38 degrees 30 minutes, wc fell in with a conven- ient and fit harborough, aud Juno 17th came to an an- chor thereiu." * • * Continuing in llii: " World Encompassed," the narratoi writes : " In this bay vtb aukered (he seventeenth of June, and the peo p of tlie-Conntery, having their houses close by the water's side, shewed themselves unto us, and sent a present to our Generall. ' " " Our Generall called this countery Nova Albion, and that for two causes: the one, in respect of the white bankes and cliffes, which ly towardes the sea ; and the other, because it might have some affinitio with our countrey in name, which some- time was so called. " There is no part of earth here to bee taken up, wherein there is not some speciall likelihood of gold or silver. "At our departure hence our Generall set up a monu- ment to onr being there." _ » * » From a recent visit to Drake's Bay (1886), we feel as- sured he was anchored close under the point. From this place he -could not see any fair indication of there beiug a lagocpi like the Estero de Limantonr. Moreover, that he was not in that estero would appear by the follow- ing precautions he took against any surprise by the na- tives : "The third day following, viz, the 21st, our ship hav- ing received a leake at sea, was brought to anchor neerer the shore, that, her goods being landed, she might be re- paired ; but for that we were to preuent any danger that might chance against our safety, our Generall first of all landed his men, with all necessary promission,to build tents and make u fort for the defence of our selves and goods; and that wee might vnder the shelter of it with more safety (what ever should befal) end our business" (p. 122). "When they [the Indians] came to the top of hill, at the bottom whereof wee had built our fort, they made a stand." " * * On the sketch of Portus Nova; Albionis there is the le- gend, " Fffida corporum laceraetione et crebris in monti- bus sacrifiesis hujeis Novi Albionis portns itioela; Drecis jambis coronote deceslum deflent." (By horrible lacerations of their bodies and by fre- quent sacrifices in the mountains, the inhabitants of this UNITED STATES COAST ASD GEODETIC SURVEY. 217 DRAKE. cept the fierce Winds do sometimes scatter them ; and when gone, the Fogs return as before." Chap. VI., p. 118. * * * "Next day after their coming to Anchor in the har- bour afore-mentioned, the Natives of the Country discov- ering them, sent a Man to them in a Canoe, with all Ex- pedition. » k * June 23, their Ship being leaky, came nearer the shore to Land their Goods; but to pre- vent any surprize, the General sent his Men ashore first with all necessaries for making Tents, and a Fort for se- curing their Purchase ■ * » * their Houses are dug round within the Earth, and have from the surface to the Ground, Poles of Wood set np and joined together at tho Top like a Spired Steeple, which being covered with Earth, no water can enter(p. 120), andarevery warm, tho Door being also the Chimney to let out tho Smoke, which are made Slopous, like the Scuttle of a Ship * » * (p. 1"21). The Generalhaving experienced the treachery of other Infidels, provided against any Alteration of their mind, setting up Tents, and intrenching themselves with Stone Walla; which done they grew more Secure. * * * The Indians * * * coming to tho Top of the Hill, at the Bottom whereof they had built their Fort, thej made a stand, where their chief speaker wearied him- self, .and them with a long oration, &c. (p. 123), their Hioh or King appeared. , • » » (P. 128). "Having finished their Afl'airs the General and some of his Company made a Journey up into the Country, to observe their manner of Living, with the Na- ture and Commodities of the Country ■ " * » the In- land was far different from the Seashore, it being a very frnitfnl soil, furnished with all Necessaries, and stored with large fat Deer, whereof they saw Thousands in an Herd, &c. * * » " This Country General Drake called Nova Albion, both because it had white Cliffs towards the Sea, and that its Name might have some likeness to England, which was formerly so called. Before they went hence, the General caused a Monument to be erected, signifying the English had been there, and asserted the Eights of Queen Eliza- beth and her Successors to that Kingdom, all engraven in a Plate of Brass, and .Nail'd to a great firm Post, with the Time of their Arrival, the Queen's Name, and the free Resignation of the Country by the King and People into her Hands; likewise her Picture and Arais, and nuder- neath the General's Arms. * * ' " July the 23rd, they [the Indians] took a sorrowful leave of them, but loth to part with them, they went to the top of the Hills to keep sight of them as long as pos- sible, making Fires before, bohiud.and at each side of them, therein they supposed Sacrifices were offered to their happy Voyage." ULLOA AND VIZCxilNO. wrecked and driven on shore by a contrary wind ; and among those who were there at that occurrence was the chief pilot, H. Ex. 40- -28 218 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVET. DAVIDSON. FEEEELO port of New Albion deplore the depaitnre of Drake now twice crowned.) Among the Nicasio Indians of the Nicasio Valley, lying to the eastward of Drake's Bay, there is said to be a tra- dition that Drake anchored in this bay ; that some of his crew deserted and lived among the Indians ; and that he gave the natives some seeds, and among other things Bome hard ship-biscuit, which they innooentlv planted. He also left among^them a sow and a, boar ; and the early Spaniards report that when they came to this region the country was filled with wild hogs. ' Ballenas Bay: To the southward of Drake's Bay, and nearly half way to San Francisco Bay entrance, there is a small cove somewhat protected by a reef from the north- west swell. The name Volanos or Bolanos, Vizcaino's pilot, at once suggests tlie origin of the present name i. e., the Bay of Bolanos. La Pauta de los Eeyes, Vizcaino. Point Eeyes, latitude 38° 00'. The chart of Vizcaino gives a fair idea of Point Eeyes and its relation to Drake's Bay, but the latter is exag- gerated. He has an entrance to a large estero now known as the Estero de Limantour, or Drake's Lagoon. For a detailed description of this remarkable headland, which forms the northorn boundary of the Gulf of the Farallones, see Davidson's Coast Pilot. The Isles of St. James, Drake. Los Frayles, Vizcaino's chart. Los Farallones de los Frayles of the later Spanish navi- gators. The North Farallones, the Middle Farallon, and South- east Far.allon, latitude 37° 42'. It is a curious fact that neither Cabrillo norFerrelo men- tion these notable islets, although they describe and name the great gulf under Point Eeyes Head. Drake's descrip- tion admits of no" doubt whatever. Vizc^no does not mention this extensive group of high islets in his narra- tive, but has five "Frayles" laid down off his port of San Francisco, doubtless the North Farallones, and a large islet close inshore and to the southward. This latter is certainly the largest and highest, or the South- east Farallon, and it would appear ihat he did not sail between it and the shore, because he has laid it down dangerously near to the coast. This remarkable group of islands forms a uotablc feat- ure in the navigation of this part of the coast. The Southeast Farallon is a high rocky islet about one mile in extent, rising abruptly from deep water, with several well-defined heads, one of which attains an elevation oi 360 feet This islet may sometimes have been mistaken for several islets close together. It lies in latitude 37° 42', twenty-four miles broad off the Golden Gate, and eighteen miles true south of Point Eeyes Head. It is a wild granitic mass of rock, without a particle of soil and the resort and breeding-place of thousands of sea-lions and millions of sea birds. There are two or three land- ing places around the island. UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVBY. OKAKE. TTLLOA AND VIZCAINO. 219 "A little witbout their Harbour lyo certain Isles, and by tbem the Islands of St. James, wherein are plenty of Seals and Fowls, and Landing on one of them the next day, they supplied themselves with competent Provis- ion for some time (Hero, p. 129). "The 23 of July they took a eorrowfull farewell of vs but being loath to leave vs, tbey presently run no to the top of the hils to keepe vs in sight as long asithey could, making fires. * » * "Not farre without this barborough did lye certain Islands (we call them the Islands of Saint James), hav- ing on them plcntifull and great store of Scales and birds, with one of which wee fell July 24, whereon we found such provision as might competently seruo our turne for a while. We departed againe the day next following, viz, July 25." (World Encompassed, p. 134.) Francisco de Volanos, who was with the present expedi- tion. He recognized the place and afilirmed that they had left on shore a great quantity of wax, and chests of silks, and the Greneral was anxious to discover some vestiges of these. "The Qapitana came to anchor behind a point of land which makes this port [Puerto do San Francisco, i. e. Drake's Bay], and which he called La Punta de los Eeyes ; but no one was sent ashore that they might be in readiness for the tender; and on the day following, the Capirana sailed out in search for her. The wind was northwest and light and the Capitana moved slowly. • * <• 220 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVBY. DAVIDSON. The North Farallones is a group of four smaller islets and low rocks gathered together in a somewhat compact hody. The four principal islets are high, barren, and almost inaccessible. The highest rises to an elevation of 158 feet. The group lies six and three-fifths miles northwest by west from the Southeast Farallon, and twelve miles south-southwest from the western extremity of Point Eeyes He.ad. The depth of water around these islands is thirty fathoms, and the same continues well in towards the shore so that it is somewhat strange that Cabrillo, Ferrelo, and Vizcaino did not go inside of them ; they could not have been coasting very closely along the main shore. Frequently these islets are hidden by the fogs even when the shores are fairly free and visible. Eio Grande de San Sebastian, Vizcaino's chart. TomalesBay: The mouth of Tomales Bay is in latitude 38° 14'. This body of water is shown on Vizcaino's chart but no mention is made of it in the narrative. It is indicated in the locality of Bodega Bay, six leagues north of Point Eeyes, by a large river leading many leagues to 'the east- ward. It might be considered the Estero Americano, but this stream is quite narrow, not straight, and is not easily made out from seaward. It is almost certainly Tomales Bay, which would show the mile- wide entrance between the rulge of Tomales Peninsula and the equally high land forming the eastern shore of the bay. Tomales Bay is ten miles long with a navigable chan- nel a good distance in. But the bar at the entrance is generally marked by breakers, and has lees than ten feet of water upon it at low tide. On old Spanish charts we find the name sometimes spelled Tamales; and it would seem a reasonable con- _ elusion that it was named after the Tamal Indians. The vessels of Cabrillo were compelled by stress of weather to leave the coast when near Cape San Martin. From his description I place him about twenty-five miles nearly south of the present Cape San Martin, which is the great flanking spur from the m ountains of the Santa Lucia range. He was sixty miles south by east from the termination of the range at Carmel Bay, and the mount- ains are so high that he may possibly have seen them; but it is more i^robable that he estimated his distance, and also that the range was cloud-capped. In the heavy "southeaster'' it is evident that their small vessels were very seriously in danger, and that for safety each had to look out for itself. A rough plotting of their courses clearly indicates that -they were far away from the coast. "Echaron unEomero" means that they cast lots to de- cide who should go on the pilgrimage to tjie church and make the offering to Our Lady Guadalupe. A marginal note in Herrera states : "Vote de los Marineros de la Nao de D. Antonio de Mendof a, b. Nuestra Sefiora del Eosero." They sight land to the northward of the Slavianski or Enssian Eiver on the 14th ; the summit of Eoss Mountain is over 2,200 feet above the sea and only three miles from the shore. It is in latitude 38° 30', and is visible from the latitude of Point Eeyes. FEREELO This same u ight of Saturday, at four o'clock in the night, being in the sea about six leagues from the coast, lying to waiting for the day, with a southeast wind, so great a storm struck Ihcmfrom Ihe southwest and the south- southwest with rain and dark cloudy weather, that they conld not keep \\p a handbreadth of sail, and it made them scud with a small foresail, with umch labor, all the night, and the Sunday following the tempest broke upon them with much greater violence, which continued that day and night until the following Monday at noon, and the storm was as great as can bo experienced in Spain. On Saturday night they lost sight of their consort. Monday, the thirteenth of the said month of November, at the hour of Vesper.s, the weather cleared up and the wind veered to the west, and immediately they made sail and went in search of their consort steering towards the land, praying to God that they might discover her, as they much feared that she would be lost ; they were run- ning to the north and to the north-northwest; with the wind west and west-northwest ; and the following Tues- day at daybreak they had sight of the laud, and they were able to hold on until the evening, and they could see that the land was very high, and they cruised along the coast to see If there was any port where they might take shelter ; and so great was the swell of the sea that it was fearful to behold ; and the coast was hold, and the UNITED STATES COAST AKD GEODETIC SURVEY. 221 CABEILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO and at four hours in the night, commencing to blow strongly the wind from the south-southeast, and from the southwest, with showers, and heavy clouds, and a great sea that nearly engnlfed them, and at dawn, it blowing tremendously, it was not possible to run, except with the least amonnt of sail, before the wind, and on account of the strong sea, wintl, and dense clouds, one vessel lost sight of the other, and that one vessel threw overboard everything that could lighten her, from the deck, because the storm was very great ; and on the Capitana, seeing themselves in the greatest danger, they vowtd a j)ilgrim- age [eeharon un Eomero] to our Lady of the Rosary and the blessed Mother of Pity, for her mercy, and she favored them with a little fair weather. And Monday, on the thirteenth of said month, they were heading towards the land, in search of the other vessel, and during the night they kept a lookout, in order not to lose sight of any- thing, and to search for some shelter, and to make the land. 222 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. Cabo do Finos, Cabrillo, 40° "and more." Northwest Cape, Russian. (See pp. 224, 228, 236.) This is the bold hig'h spur of the coast mountains nearly overhanging Fort Ross Cove, in latitude 38° 31'. This gives a correction to Cabrillo and Ferrelo of, — 1° 29'. The vessels were not near enough to the coast to see the details of the shore-line. This bold shoulder with the forests upon it was the dis- tinguishing mark for the Russian ships when making the small harbor of Fort EosS. The massive character of the orography is well exhibited in the latest editions of the Coast Survey charts. Cabrillo's description is good, even to the direction of the ooast-liue. The Russian name " Northwest Cape " was not really applied to the capo above described, but to the compara- tively low rocky point at the northwest part of the Fort Ross Cove. (See Davidson's Coast Pilot.) FERliELO. mountains very lofty, and at evening they lay to for rest ; it is a coast running northwest to southeaat; they iier- oeived the land at a point frhich projects into the Ocean, which forms a cape, and the point is covered with trees, and it is in forty degrees. Punta de Arena. Point Arena, latitude 38° 57'. This point liea thirty-seven miles uorthwest, along a straight coast-liuo, from the Northwest Cape at Fort Ross Cove; and Cabrillo could not hUvo seen the point itself when he was in his latitude of Cabo de Pinos. But he could have readily mado out the high mountains lying sevea or eight miles southeast of Point Arena and border- ing the coast. Moreover, if he sailed along the shore be- yond Cabo de Pinos before the gale struck him (as they iipparently got observations of the sun q.t noon), he may have actually seen Point Arena. As he had seen no point with such marked peculiarities it is strange he did not describe it. The long terrace land stretches out three miles from the base of the mountains and terminates in vertical cliffs from two hundred and sixty feet to forty and fifty feet i:i height, with whitish faces, in the sun- light. Cabrillo's Friday is an error, as shown by the contest ; it Hhonid bo Thursday. • Bala do Pinos, Cabrillo. La Bahia de los Pinos, Ferrelo, 39° and " more." Ensenada de los Frayles. The Gulf of the Faralloues. Drake's B.iy, latitude 38° 00' ; correction to Ferrelo, —1° 00' and " more." (See p. 214.) The " Great Gulf" of Cabrillo may possibly bo intended to embrace the bight from Point Reyes Head to Point Bo- neta, or even to Point San Pedro. It could not have been intended for Bodega Bay, because this has no character- istics of a great gulf, and there have been no pines upon Bodega Head, Point Tomalos, or the eastern shore ot the bay since its occupation in the last fifty years; nor is there any indication of such a growth previously. On the other hand, a part of the ridges and all the gulches from Mount Tamalpais'are even yet forest clad. This is quite a marked feature from seaward. Moreover, the re- ported latitude carries the location to the Gulf of the Faralloneg. Wednesday, the fifteenth day of the said month, they had sight of their consort, for which they gave many thanks to God, as they had considered her lost; and they came up with her and joined her at evening. They of the other ^ip endured more danger and risk than those of the Captain's vessel, on account of its being small and having no deck. This l,ind whore they were sailing is to appearance very good, but they saw no Indians nor smokes. There are grand Sierras covered with snow; there .ire many trees. At night they lowered the sails and lay to. On the following Thursday, the sixteenth of the said month of November, at daybreak, they were upon a large gulf which was formed by a change of direction of the shore, which appeared to have a port and a river, and they went'beating about this dayandtho night and the Friday following, until thoy saw that there was no river nor any shelter; and to take possession they cast anchor in forty- five fathoms. They did not dare to land on account of the high sea. This gulf is in thirty and nine degrees and n;ore, and it is all covered with pines to the sea. They gave it the name of La Bahia de las Pinos. The follow- ing night they lay to until the next day. UNITEt) STATES COAST AKD GEODETIC SUltVEY. 223 CABRILT.O. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. There is a Cape, projecting into the sea, very much wooded, with very high pine trees, and they called it Cabo de Pinos, and observing the Sun, they found them- selves in forty degrees, and more, to the northwest, from whence they recognized more than fifteen leagues of coast, all the land high, and the coast running from northwest southeast : Aud Friday, the sixteenth, they arrived at a Great Gull^ that looked like a harbor, and tbey called it Pinos. 224 UNITED STATES COAST ^\ND GEODETIC SUKVEY DAVIDSON. El Cabo cle San Martin. (See pp. 210, 222, 223, 236.) Tliis is either the northern limit of the Sierra Santa Lucia near Point Carrael or the San Martin which they made in the early part of the voyage when they were storm struck and had to run before it. The former would probably bo the more likely, because on the 18th they were running from near Point Eeyes all day along the coast, and passing the deep bight of Monterey Bay would make the pine-covered mountain behind Point Pinoa or the higher mountains beyond Point Carmel by nightfall. It is evident that Ferrelo runs ahead in his narrative to describe in general terms the appearance of the coast range of mountains from the Gulf of the Farallones to Cap°e San Martin, and then returns to take up the details, liis Sierras Nevadas form the mountain range of the Pen- insula of San Francisco, in whose crest -line is Loma Prieta reaching an elevation of nearly 3,000 feet, and which is about thirteen miles inside of Point Alio Nuevo lying un- der his Snowy Cape. Mount Baeho, in the same range, is in latitude 37° 06*' and reaches 3,825 feet elevation. His description is good, although it would apply with greater force to the stupendous barrier of the seaward face of the Sierra Santa Lucia ; ho may very probably have had both mountain r.anges in his mind at the time of compiling his narrative. Las Sierras Nevadas, Ferrelo. La Sierra de Santa Cruz. The Peninsula of San Francisco. . Cabo do Nieve, Ferrelo, 38|o. Cabo de Nieve, CabriUo, 38J°. Black Mountain, latitude 37° 09'. This is the massive western spur or buttress ot the San Francisco Peninsula Mountains immediately behind and almost overhanging the low Point Ano Nuevo: The ships were not close enough to the coast for CabriUo to note the details of the shore-line, but ho took in the broad, bold features, and graphically describes them under the aspect of a heavy winter. I place this great shoulder of the range in latitude 37° 09', whence the correction to Ferrelo and CabriUo is,— 1° 31'. Mount Bache, reaching 3,825 feet elevation, is in lati- tude 37° Ofii'. Ferrelo again runs ahead of events in his narrative in mentioning his approach to the Santa Barbara Islands and then returns and describes the coast from Calio de Pinos (Northwest Cape at Fort Koss). (See pp. 210, 222, y2(),23G.) By plotting his course as far as practicable during the storm and his again making the coast, I fix his approach thereto south of Point Arena, at the cape he describes, but even then lie most have been twenty-five miles from the coast-line. He could not have followed the shore very closely or ho would have seen the bays of Esteros, San Luis Obispo, and Point Sal. Moreover the coast was thickly popu- lated from the San Carpofero to Point Concepciou ; and from Carmel Bay northward the coast was also thicklv inhabited. FEEHELO. The following Saturday they were running along the coast, and they found themselves at night off El Cabo de San Martin. All the coast they passed by this day is very Dold, and there is a grgat swell of the sea, and the land is very lofty ; there are mountains which rise to the sky and the sea beats upon them. While sailing near the land it ap- pears as if they would fall upon the ships ; they are cov- ered with snow to the summit. ■ They gave them the uame of las Sierras Nevadas, and the principal one forms a cape which projects into the sea, which they named Cabo de Nieve. The coast runs north-northwest and south-southeast. It does not appear that Indians inhabit this coast. This Cabo de Nieve is in thirty and eight degrees and two- thirds, and always when the wind blew from the northwest it made the weatlier fair and clear. Thursday, on the twenty-third day of the month, they approached on a return course the islands of San Lucas, and one'of them named la Posesion ; and they ran aloljg all the coast, point by point, from el Cabo de Pinos to them, and they found uo shelter, so that of necessity they had to return to the, said island, on account of having these diiya a very strong west-northwest wind, and the swell of the seii, was very great. From Cabo de San Mar- tin to Cabo'de Pinos we saw no Indians, because of the coast being bold iiud without shelter and rugged ; and on the southeast side of Cabo de Martin for fifteen leagues they found the country inhabited, and many smokes, for the laud is good ; but from el Cabo de Martin as far as to forty degrees we saw no signs of Indians. UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. 225 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. And on the eighteenth they were seeking for a port, and discoTered some snow covered sierras, with a cape, which projected therefrom, which they called Caho de Nieve, in thirty and eight degrees and two-thirds, and the whole land and coast, possesses this peculiarity, that, whenever the wind hlows from the northwest, the weather is all clear, without any scud or anything else ; and from the thirty and seven degrees and a half, hence to the forty degrees, this coast runs northwest southeast ; H. Ex. 40 29 226 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIO SURVEY. DAVIDSON. El Cabo de Sau Martin, Ferrelo, 37i°. (See pp. 210, 222,224,2,36.) The present Cape San Martin is in latitude 35° 54', but Moant Carmel, one of the high peaks of the Sierra Santa Lucia (Ferrelo's Sierra San Martin) would probably be the first mountain he would see when approaching from the north across the Gulf of Monterey. In the clear sty of northwest weather he would have seen it when he was abreast of his Cabo de Nieve, or Point Ano Nuevo. It is in latitude 36° 22', rises to an elevation of 4,417 feet, and is visible at a distance of seventy-five miles. It is only eight miles inside of Point Sur. La Isla de la Posesion, Cabrillo. Una de las Islas de San Lucas, Cabrillo. Isla de Posesion, Ferrelo. La Isla de Juan Rodriguez, Ferrelo. Ciquimuymu, Indian, Ferrelo. La Isla de Baxos, Vizcaino. San Miguel Island. (See pp. 204, 206, 236.) This is the westernmost of the Santa Barbara Islands. (For a detailed description see Davidson's Coast Pilot of California, &c.) Bl Puerto de la Posesion, Cabrillo. This is Cuyler's Harbor in latitude 34° 03', already de- scribed. (See p. 236.) FERRELO. El Cabo de San Martin is in thirty and seven degrees and a half. The "other islands of Sau Lucas" is San Salvador, Ferrelo. (Seep. 204.) Limun or Limu, Indian, Ferrelo. Santa* Cruz Island, already described. (For a minute description of the island see Davidson's Coast Pilot of California, &o. ) He appjirently forgets that Cabrillo named Santa Cat- iilina Island San Salvador, and ho slightly changes the spelling of the Indian name. While wintering in this Isla de Posesion, on the third day of January, 1543, departed from this present life Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, Captain of the said ships, from a fall which he had on the same island at the former time when they were there, by which he broke an arm near .the shoulder. He left for Captain the Chief Pilot, who was one Bartolomfe Ferrelo, a native of the Le- vant ; and he charged them much at the time of his death that they should not give up the discovery, as far as possible, of all that coast. They named the island La Isla de Juan Rodriguez. The Indians call this isl- and Ciquimuymu, and another they call Nicalqne, and the other they call Limu. In this island de la Posesion, there are two villages; the one is called Zaco(lO) and the other Nimollollo. On one of the other islands there are three villages; one they call Niohochi, and another Coy- coy, and the other Estocoloco. On the other island there are eight villages, which are, Miquesesquelua, Poele, Pisqueno, Pualnacatup, Patiquiu, Patiquilid, Ninumu, Muoc, Pilidquay, Lilibeque. The Indians of these islands are very poor. They are fishermen ; they eat nothing but fish ; they sleep on the ground ; all their business and employment is to fish. In each house they say there are fifty souls. They live very swinishly; they go naked. They were in these islands from the twenty-third of November to the nineteenth of January. "In all this time, which was almost two months, there were very hard wintry storms on the land and tho sea. The winds which prevailed most wore west-south- west and Bonth-southwost and west-northwest. The weather was very tempestuous. Friday, the nineteenth day of the mouth of January, 1543, they set sail from the island of Juan Rodiiguez, which is called Ciquimuymu by the natives, to go to tho mainland in search of some supplies of provisions for their voyage, and in leaving the port a heavy storm from the west-northwest struck them, which made them put into the other islands of San Lucas, and they anchored off the island of Limun, to which they gave the name of San Salvador, and they found it necessary to weigh an- chor again because it had no port more under the shelter of the islands, and the wind veered around from all points, and they sailed around these islands eight days with the wind very foul, sheltering themselves under the islands from the bad weather ; and on tho twenty-seventh of the said month they entered the same port of the isl- and of Juan Rodriguez where they were before. The greatest hindrance they had was because the winds were not steady, but went veering about from one point to an- other. Those which are the more constant are from tho west-northwest and from the west-southwest. UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. 227 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. and because they did not find any port, they had to go to la Isla de la Posesion, which is one of the Islands of San Lucas, and they entered there Thursday, on the twenty- third of November, and because it is a good port, they repaired the small vessel, and made her staunch, as she was going to sink. lu the aforesaid port they remained, until the end of December, on account of the bad weather, with great cold and snow, even to the sea level, rain from heaven, and heavy clouds ; and as the southeast storm was con- tinuing, thisre was so great a surf, although in a land- locked harbor, that sometimes for three and four days, it was not possible to go on shore. Finally, Friday, on the nineteenth of January of the following year, one thou- sand five hundred and forty-three, with great labor they arrived at the Puerto de Sardinas, 228 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. DAVIDSON. FEERELO. La Isla do Sau Seliastiau, Ferrelo's consort. (See pp. 204,236.) • La Isla de San Lucas, Ferrelo. La Isla de Cleto, Viztfaino's chart. Nioalque, Indian, Ferrelo. Santa Eosa Island, lying between San Miguel Island and Santa Cruz Island. He probably lost bis anchor in Becher's Bay ou the northeast face of the island, -where he could have watered his vessel. For minute description of the island see Davidson's Coast Pilot. El Puerto do las Sardinas, Ferrelo. Cicaout, Indian, Ferrelo. The Gaviota anchorage. (See pp. 208, 210.) In the Gaviota Pass there are evidences of large Indian Eaucherias, where the Indians couldretire from the coast- line in winter and thus avoid the full effects of the storms, and at the same time engage in hunting or cul- tivate the ground. La Isla do San Salvador, Ferrelo. Santa Cruz Island. (See pp. 204, 236, 238.) If we suppose that he ran nearly south, and half way between Santa Cruz and San Nicolas, he would probably have seen the islands of San Miguel, Santa Eosa, Santa Cruz, Anacapa, Santa Catalina (with Santa Barbara in line and not distinguishable), and San Nicolas. He could not have seen San Clemente Island ; Anacapa is small ; and Santa Catalina would, at that distance, appear smaU. Sau Nicolas would be seen moderately small, because he would make it endwise. When the unusual northeast wiud changed and the west-northwest wind came up with the large sea always accompanying it, it is very unlikely that he was even two hundred miles to the windward of the islands. And yet we find Kohl making the unaccountable blunder of sup- posing that the six islands which Ferrelo saw "were doubtless the Sandwich Islands '.' ! El Cabo de Pinos, Ferrelo. Already described as the mountain mass behind Fort Eoss Cove. (See pp. 210, 222, 224, 236. ) This is the Punta de Arena in latitude 38° 57', but he does not name it ; the land trends to the northwestward from Bodega to this point, then the shore changes its di- rection to north-northwest. EI Cabo de Fortunas, Cabrillo, 41°. They saw the great mountain inass which reaches a height of nearly 4,300 feet a little to the northward of Tuesday, the twenty-ninth of the said month of Janu- ary, they departed from the island of Juan Eodriguez for th6 island of San Lucas, which is in the middle of the others, to take up certain, anchors which they had left in a storm, not being able to raise them ; and which they recovered, and took in water. They departed from this island of San Lucas Monday, the twelfth day of the month of February, which they could not do sooner on account of the bad weather, which gave tliem winds and much snow. It is inhabited, and the people are like those of the other island. The In- dians call it Nioalque. There are three villages on it, which are called Nicochi, Coycoy, Coloco. This day they went to Puerto de las Sardinas, to take in wood and other things necessary for their voyage, as they were not to be obtained on those islands. Wednesday, on the fourteenth of tho said month, they departed from El Puerto de Sardinas, having taken a boat-load of wood, and they did not dare to remain longer there on account of the great s well of the ocean ; they did not find so many Indians as before, nor any fishing on account of the winter ; the natives eat oak acorns and other seeds and herbs of the field without cooking. From this place they proceeded to the island of San Sal- vador, because they were there more secure from the storms, that they might be able to make sail and run out to sea. Sunday, the eighteen th day of the said month of Feb- ruary, they departed from the island of San Salvador ' with a moderate wind from northeast, and they ran along to the southwest, because they had been told that there were other islands toward the southwest ; they were at dusk this day about twelve leagues from the island of San Salvador, and they saw six islands, some large and others small. This day a sailor died, and the following Monday, at daybreak, they were at sea about ten leagues to the wind- ward of the islands, and with the wind west-northwest they were standing off five days to the southwest, and after they had proceeded about one hundred leagues they found the wind more violent and the sea high ; and Thursday, the twenty-second of the said month of February, they again stood in shore to endeavor to reach Cabo de Pinos, with the wind south-southeast, which continued three days, and was increasing each day ; and the Sunday following, at daybreak, they gained sight of Cabo de Pinos, and they were this day at dusk twenty leagues to windward on a coast running northwest and southeast, and it is bold and without shelter ; there was no smoke seen on the land, aud they saw a point which formed the extremity of the land, which changed the coast to the northwest; in the middle of the night the wind suddenly shifted to the south-southwest, and they ran to the west-northwest until day, and in the morning the wind shifted to the west-southwest with great vio- lence, which held ou until tJie following Tuesday; they' ran to the northwest. UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 229 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAiNO. whence they left on the fourteenth of February. And Monday, on the twenty-sixth ot sam montn, tney were at a point which makes a cape, which they called Cabo de Fortunas, on account of the many dangers which they had experienced in those days, and it is in forty and one degress : 230 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUUVEST. DAVIDSON. Point. Delgada at Shelter Cove; and continues as a bold range to the north of Cape Mendocino. They could not have seen Point Delgada because it is low and projected on the base of the coast mountains. If he saw King Peak, or the mountain behind Cape Gorda, or Mount Pierce behind Cape Mendocino, then his latitude must be assumed to have been derived from dead reckoning. Cape Mendocino is in 40° 27', Cape Gorda in 40° 13', but the high crest-line of the mountains runs to the south ot 40°. This course from Point Arena is nearly north-north- west, true. Vizcaino's two ships had been separated in a storm, and the crews were in a terribly bad condition from scurvy. These are the high mountains lying eastwardly from Point Delgada, and culminating in King Peak in latitude 40° 09', at an elevation of 4,265 feet. Cabo Mendocino, Vizcaino's pilots, 41°, without ob- servation. Cape Mendocino, latitude 40° 27'. The description and' the position of the cape in rela- tion to the foregoing mountains are good for Cape Men- docino, but I think the latitude ho gives is merely a report, for they do not appear to have observed the sun, and his chart places it in 41° 40'. The high mountains, rising to an elevation of 3,400 feet behind the cape, might well be covered with snow if the winter was severe, as we may assume it was from the narrative. They could not have been in 41° 30', because after being driven northward by the violent southeaster for six days (to January 20) they were then only in 42°. Vizcaino's chart lays down a prominent headland in lati- tude 40i° (obtained by bringing up the scale of degrees from Point Pinos to Point Eeyes) and a iharked headland in 41°. Between these two capes he has a deep receding of the shore-line to the east and northeast, with a large river emptying into the northeast part of this great bight. I am satisfied that this appiirent eastern recession Oi the shore-line was the low country around Humboldt Bay and Eel and Mad Eivers. The large river which he has drawn was a supposition of its existence on account oi the low lying valley in that direction giving passage way -to the discolored waters of Mad River and Pigeon River — Cabo Mendocino, Vizcaino's chart, 41° 40'. ^Point St. George, in latitude 41° 46'. South of Cape Mendocino Vizcaino notes the coast line as rugged, butno name appears until "Cabo Mendocino" stands abreast a cape of white cliffs in latitude 41° 40' with mountains to the southward covered with snow. The shore-line from Trinidad to this capo is laid down straight, but for twenty miles it is continued to the northeast. He could not have been near the coast, on account of the heavy weather, or he would not have missed Redding Rock north of Trinidad, nor the notable cliffs of Gold Bluff in 41° 25'. And especially does he omit any sign of the rocky islets of the Dragon Rocks forming St. George's Reef iu 41° 50'. As there is a marked recession of the high land behind Point St. George on account of large lakes and several streams making in from the distant mountains, he may have FEEEELO. Tuesday, the twenty-seventh of the said mouth, the wind veered to the south-southwest, which held on all day ; they ran to the west-northwest with the foresails lowered, for it blew violently; at the approach of night the wind shifted to the west; they ran all night to the south with but little sail ; there was a high sea which broke over them. UNITED STATES COAST .AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. 231 CABEILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO "The ship progressed very slowly, but little by little, on Sunday the twelfth day of January [1603] the flag- ship came iu sight of some very higji mountains of a reddish color, and fourteen league's farther to the north- west a chopped off cape came upon the sea, and near to it some snowy mountains; and the pilots judged that this should be the Cape Mendocino, which is [reported to be] in forty and one degrees of latitude. "The day following, which reckons itself the thirteenth of January, a southeast wind came up with the greatest fury, and with it a fine sleet that appeared like snow. This wind raised such a tremendous sea, that every mo- ment it appeared as if the ship must founder and all be lost: and to avoid its fury, and not to reach a higher latitude, because they feared the excessive cold and the > increased violence of the storms in the higher latitudes, and it being the depth of winter, it was deemed the best to lay to until the wind was favorable and then make sail for Acapulco. * » » "With this decision came a little strength to mitigate the sufferings of the people, for they now thought they ■Bould be able to hold out some days longer than if thev went farther north. "And on the fourteenth of the said month the weather cleared a little that day and the sun shone out, so that the pilots were able to observe, and they found themselves near to this Cabo Mendocino, and the currents had car- ried them even this far in two days. Almost immediately the sky was obscured that day with a thick fog, and dark, and a cold drizzle which they had not expected ; and as the wind was still at southeast the ship lay to the sea with the wind abeam 232 UNITED STATES COAST ASD GEODETIC SUEVEY. DAVIDSON. FEERELO, supposed the shore receded more to the Bortheast than it really does. EI Caho Blanco de San Sebastian. Vizcaino does not state positively that this cape is in his observed latitude of 42°, which, by the way, is the only latitude he mentioiis in his narrative. His chart lays down a cape of white cliffs in 41° 40', where he places Cape Mendocino. There are the white cliffs of the Gold Blaffs in 41° 25', and the notable white sand dunes just nor oh of Mack's Arch. These sand dunes a,re three miles in length and rise to 170 feet elevation and are a marked feature in the shore line. They lie in latitude 42° 14' and tbo verdure-clad mountains behind them rise to 1,500 feet aud are pine covered on the upper slopes and crest line. In latitude 42° 05' the Coast Survey has named a bold headland, seen from Pelican Bay, Cape Ferrelo, and in latitude 42° 18' a second notable head has been nam^d Cape Sebastian, but without other intention than com- memorating these names. "A Bad bay," Drake 42°. Chetko. Bay, latitude 42° 01'. This is an open^roadstead exposed to the full force of the southerly swell. It is at the southern termination of fifty miles of high rugged coast coming from Port Or- ford to the Chetko Eiver. In striking the coast Drake could find no anchorage between Point Orford and this place, and none other near this except Crescent City Harbor, seventeen miles southward, and which he would hardly approach when the dangerous Dragon Rocks or St. George's Reef guarded the shore. Chetko anchorage is but slightly protected even from the northwest swell by the long rounding head of Cape Ferrelo, five or six miles to the west-northwest. The shore line to the west- ward is bound by rocks, and there are several sunken rooks with breaks upon them in the anchorage. Weknow from experience that it is not a comfortable anchorage; and it may very well be accepted as tire anchoring place of Drake in latitude 42°. Trinidad Head, latitude 41° 03'. Redding Eock, latitude 41° 22'. The tender was then off Trinidad Head in latitude 41^ 03', and supposing that they had observed the latitude correctly, ho could havo found no protection anywhere in the vicinity of Cape Mendocino in 40° 27', or of Trin- idad Head. In their demoralized condition they were auxious to get shelter, and the first object they could find would be the Redding Rock in latitude 41° 22', only five miles off a nearly straight coast-line. It is only eigbty-three feet high and of limited extent, but sufficient to give a lee for sucb a small vessel ; moreover it is evident that the storm was not very severe. This protection was his only refuge, and his reference to Cape Mendocino was merely to the. nearest known landfall. imiTED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DEA.KE. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. 233 even to the nineteentti of January, on the evening of San Fahian and Sebastian, Martyrs. T^iis day the wind came from the northwest and cleared the weather, and observing the altitude the pilots found themselves in forty and two degrees of latitude ; and the coast has a Cabo Blanco, of white land, joined to some high snow covered mountains, and it is called El Cdbo Blanco de San Sebastian. "The 5 day of June, wee were forced by contrary windes to runne in with the shoare, which we then first descried, and to cast anchor in a bad bay, the best roade we could for the present meete with, where wee were not without some danger by reason of the many extreme gusts and flawes that beate vpou vs, which if they ceased and were still at any time, immediately upon their inter- mission their followed most nile thicke, and stinking fogges, against which the sea preuailed nothing, till Ihe gusts of wind againe remoued them, which brought with them such extremity and violence when they came, that 'there was no dealing or resisting against them." " In this place was no abiding for vs ; and to go further north, the extremity of the cold (which had now vtterly discouraged oar men) would not, permit -vs; and the winds directly beat against vs, hauing once gotten vs vnder sayle againe, commanded vs to the southward whether we would or no." " World Encompassed," p. 115. "With this wind the sick sailors are reanimated to assist those who are well, and with great labor they raise the sails, and set them to the wind, with the desire to come in sight of the land in search of the t^der, and for recounoitering the line of the coast. "The Fragata, as I have said before, found herself without the ilag-ship ; believing she -wna going before, went in her following, and on the lookout for her ; and being in latitude forty and one degrees, the southeast wind, which I mentioned, struck the flag-ship, and not bein? able to withstand the sea on her beam, she ran with the wind, so as to reach the shelter of the mainland ; and very near to Cap'e Slendooino, under protection of a large rocky islet, she remained at anchor until the wind had passed ; and after the wind had lulled, they con- tinued their navigation, being close to the land ; H. Ex. 40- -30 234 UKITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. DAVIDSON. Cabo Blanco, Vizcaino (Flores), 43°. Cape Orford, or Cape Blanco, in latitude 42° 51'. North of tliis latitude the coast does not run to the northwest ; on the contrary it trends nearly north (mag- netic). Yet we may suppose that in running along the coast and making the cape with the northwest wind with its dangerous reef before him he fell hack upon his in- structions to return. This cape has a water- worn face that shows whitish in the afternoon sun, hat there is no river near it which he would dare to enter. In May, 1886, the cliflfs around Cape Orford were mostly covered with verdure, and only small spaces showed whitish. Taking his narrative as accurately descriptive, we may assume that his Cabo Blanco was the white sand dune line (just south of Cape Sebastian) in latitude 42° 14', and already described. Hence the coast rnus to the west of north to Cape Orford. After passing these bright dunes and keeping the coast-line moderately close aboard he would open the well marked valley of the Eogue Eiver in latitude 42° 25'. This stream has a tolerably wide mouth and has been entered by vessels ; but the current is very strong and there is a short breaking bar off the entrance; while outside of it there is a very dangerous reef which he would certainly avoid. The Chetko Eiver and Smith's Eiver are in the deep bight of Pelican Bay under 42°, and he would hardly have run in there from around the Dragon Eocks. The Chetko mouth is closed by a gravel barrier in dry seasons. FEEEELO. On the 28th of February, 1543, they were out of sight of land, and probably in latitude 41^°, allowing a cor- rection of one and a half degrees to his reported latitude. "Yuo tenerpuente." In Spanish, puente does not mean exactly "deck" when applied to a ship; it means the place where the batteries of a ship are situated. They were probably in latitude 42° 30' abreast of Eogue Eiver and working their way back to El Cabo de Pinos; but they must have been seventy miles broad off the coast, which was therefore not visible. The logs were brought down the flooded rivers of this part of the coast ; and they always have been a feature off the coast north of Mendocino. The Wednesday following, the twenty-eighth day of the said month, at daybreak, the wind shifted directly to the southwest, and it did not blow hard. This day they observed the latitude in forty-three degrees.- Towards night the wind freshened and shifted to the south-south- west. They ran this night to the west-northwest with much difficulty, and Thursday at daybreak the wind shifted to the southwest with great fury, and the seas came from many parts, which harassed them much, and broke over the ships, which, not having the decks [as in a man-of-war], if God should not succor them, they could not escape, and not being able to lay to, of necessity they Bcudded northeast towards the land ; and now, holding themselves for lost, they commended themselves to our Lady of Guadalupe, and made their promises [or offer- ings], and ran thus until three o'clock in the afternoon with much fear and labor, for they saw they were going to be lost, and already they perceived many signs of the laud which was near, as small birds, and logs very fresh, which had floated from some rivers, although from the dark and cloudy weather the land did not appear. At this hour the Mother of God succored them with the grace of her Son, and there came a very violent rainstorm from the north, which made them scud all that night and the following day until sunset to the south, with the foresails DOITED STATES COAST AND &EODETIO SUEVEY. 235 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. and on the nineteenth of January, the i)ilot Antonio - Flores, who was in the tender, found himself in latitude forty and three degrees, where the land makes a cape, or point, which was named Cabo Blanco, and from which the coast begins to run to the northwest, and very close to it, he found a Eiver of large volume, and deep, that upon its banks it had very large Ashes, Willows, Elders, and other trees of Castile; .and wishing to enter it, the currents would not permit him.'' [And thereupon Ensign Alferez Martin Aguilar, com- mander of the tender, and the pilot Antonio Flores, find- ing they were in a latitude beyond that mentioned in the Instructions of the Viceroy, that there was no appearance ol the flag-ship, and that the crew were very sickly, agreed to return to Acapulco.] from the twenty-seventn of February, until Thursday, the first of March, they ran the greatest danger, and still more on the night of the same day, and when it became daylight, they gave thanks to Our Lady, and to Her Blessed Son, for having saved them from so dark and ter- rible a night, because the storm is not felt so much in the daytime: and when the weather cleared up, on the first of March, they observed the sun, in forty and four de- grees, with so much cold that they were freezing, 286 "CTNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. DAVIDSON. On Saturday, March 3, 1543, they were approaching the coast south of Point Arena, hut Ferrelo goes hack in his narrative when he was north of Cape Mendocino. The large fresh water streams breaking through the coast line north of that Cape, and up to 42° are : Eel Kiver in latitude 40° 38', Humboldt Bay in latitude 40° 46', Mad Eiver in 40° 53', Pigeon Eiver in 41°, the Klamath Eiver iu 41° 34', Crescent City in 41° 44', Smith's Eiver in 41° 54', the Winchuk in 41° 58', the Chetko Eiver in 42° 02', ■ Pistol Eiver in 42° 15', and the Eogue Elver In 42° 24'. All of these bring down winter freshets of discolored water abounding in the uprooted trees from their hanks. El Cabo de Pinos, in latitude 38° 30'. The mountain mass overhanging Fort Eoas, and al- ready described (pp. 233, 224, 228). I should judge the vessel to have been twenty five miles oif the land and even somewhat to the southward of the cape. From the highest point attained, in latitude 42|°, to this position abreast Cabo de Pinos the vesseLran two hundred and seventy-five miles between the morning of March 1 and the evening of March 3, giving about five miles per hour. If they continued on their east-southeast course they should have seen Point Eeyesand the Farallones off the Golden Gate. FEEEELO. furled ; and because there was a high sea from the south. It broke ove* them each time at the how, and swept over them as if over a rook, and the wind shifted to the north- west and the north-northwest with great fury, so that it made them run until Saturday, the third of March to the southeast, and to the east-southeast, with such a high sea t7at it made them cry out without reserve that if God and His blessed Mother did not miraculously save them they could not escape. Saturday at noon the wind moderated and remained at the northwest, for which they gave many thanks to our Lord. They suffered also iu provisions, as they had only biscuit, and that damaged. It appeared to them thsjt there was a very large river, of which they had much indication, between forty and one degrees and forty and three, for they saw many signs of it. This day, in the evening, they recognized the Cabo de Pinos, and on account of the high sea which prevailed they could do no less than run along the coast on the re- turn course in search of a shelter. They experienced much cold. La Tsla de Juan Eodriguez, Ferrelo. San Miguel Island and Cuyler's Harbor. (See pp. 206, 226.) It broke on the reef which is in the middle of the har- bor, and he was unacquainted with the dangers of Wil- son's Eeef off the approaches and with the best place to anchor under the western shore of the harbor. (See de- scription under Isla de San Sebastian). Puerto de la Isla de San Salvador, Ferrelo. Smugglers' Cove. Santa Cruz Island. (Seep. 204.) Ferrelo's port is the Smugglers' Cove on the short south- east side of Santa Cruz Island. Isla de San Sebastian, Ferrelo's consort. Santa Eosa Island. (See p. 206.) This is the first time the Cahrillo narrative has men- tioned the Island of San Sebastian. It specifiesthe south- southeast side of the island where he sought shelter. As the Fragata was off Cuyler's Harbor in the evening (about twelve hours after the Capitana had passed it) with a heavy blow from the northwest, he very naturally was afraid to approach the old anchorage because he evi- dently passed through the breakers and dangers of Wilson's Eeef, over one mile in extent, that lie three miles off the Monday, on the fifth day of the said month of March, 1543, at dawn, they found themselves off the Island of Juan Eodriguez, and they did not dare to enter the port on account of the' great storm which prevailed, which broke the sea at the entrance of the harbor in fifteen fathoms; the wind was north-northwest; the entrance is narrow ; they ran under the protection of the Isla de San Salvador on the southeast side ; UJ!T1TED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. 237 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCAINO. and Saturday, on the third, they again turned round to examine el Cabo de Pinos, but owing to the strong wind they were forced to go to la Isla de la Posesion, where they arrived on the flftii, and on account of the heavy breakers at the mouth of the harbor they sought protection under the Isla do San Sebastian, under the side presented to the south-southeast, 238 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. DAVIDSON. northwest point of the island of San Miguel ; and probably continued through the San Miguel Passage seeking a lee under the shores of Santa Eosa Island ; and found protection and anchorage between South Point and East Point under the shore facing to the south-southeast. The summit of Santa Rosa Island is in latitude 33° 57', and rises to 1,500 feet elevation. He must have remained here fourteen days while the other vessel was three days in Smugglers' Cove under Santa Cruz, and then searched for her consort at the Puerto de las Canoas, again at Smugglers' Cove, at San Diego, Port Quentin, and finally at the Island of Cerros. There are four open anchorages on the south side of Santa Cruz Island and Smugglers' Cove at the short southeast side. To reach this anchorage he must have sailed along the north shore of San Miguel Island, Sauta Rosa Island, and Santa Cruz Island, and rounded the, easternmost point of the latter to find shelter, from the northwest wind, at Smugglers' Cove. He previously says he observed the sun in forty-four degrees, i, e., in 42i° latitude, after applying the proba- ble correctiou . San Buenaventura (El Pueblo de las Canoas) is only nineteen miles north-northeast from Smugglers' Cove. (See p. 204.) FEREELO. Puerto de San Miguel. San Diego Bay. (See pp. 192, 194.) ■La Bahia de San Mateo. Todos Santos Bay. (See p. 190.) EI Puerto de la Posesion. Port San Quentin, Lower California. (See p. 184.) La Isla de Cedros. Cerros Island. (See p. 174.) This ship, the Fragata, did not enter the port on Juan Rodriguez Island (Cuyler Harbor on San Miguel), but sought shelter under the south-southeast side of the Island of San Sebastian (Santa Rosa Island). (See p. 236 for and the night before coming with a violent tempest, with only two small foresails, the other ship disappeared, so that they suspected that the sea had swallowed it up, and they could not discover it any more, even after day- break ; they believe they must have been in forty-four degrees when the last storm overtook them and compelled them to run to leeward. Thursday, the eighth of the said month, they departed from the island of San Salvador, to stand in for the main- land in search of the other ship, and they proceeded to Pueblo de las Canoas and did not obtain news of the other ship; and here they took four Indians. The Friday following, on the ninth of the said month, they departed from Pueblo de las Canoas and proceeded to the island of San Salvador and found no signs of their cofisort. Sunday, the eleventh of the said month, they came near the Puerto de San Miguel, neither did they find hero their consort nor any news of her ; here they waited six days ; here they took two boys to carry to New Spain for interpreters, and left certain signals in case the other ship should approach. Saturday, the seventeenth of the said month, they de- parted from the said Puerto de San Miguel ; the follow- ing Sunday they arrived off the Bahia de San Mateo and found no signs of the other ship. Sunday, the eighteenth of the said month, in the even- ing, they departed from this bay of San Mateo, and the Wednesday following, on the twenty-first of the said month, they arrived at Puerto de la Posesion, and still obtainedno news of their consort ; they waited two days without entering the harbor, for they did not dare to enter it on account of the heavy northwest wind which blew, and, as they parted their cable, of necessity they got under way. Friday, on the twenty-third of the said month, they departed from Puerto do la Posesion, and the following Saturday at midnight they arrived oflf Isla de Cedros, and being there the following Monday, the twenty-sixth of the said month, arrived the other ship off Isla do Ce- dros, at which they rejoiced much and gave many thanks to God ; this ship passed by La Isla de Juan Rodriguez, at night, passing through some breakers so that they thought they must be lost, and the mariners promised to go in proces- sion naked to her church and our Lady delivered them. UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. ^ 230 CABRILLO. ULLOA AND VIZCATNO. and that night [of the great stormj the flag-ship disap- peared ; and in five days they ran two hundred leagues, with reefed foresail, and there was nothing more to eat, but rotten biscuit, and they dealt out one pound per ration. Thursday, on the eighth of the said month, they de- parted from El Puerto de San Sebastian, iu search of the other vessel, and the whole crew ma,de their demands that they should return to New Spain, as we had noth- ing that we could eat ; and because this was in reason, they ordered the return, searching for their consort. and they found her by chance at the Isla de Cedros, on the twenty-sixth of said month : 240 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVET. DAVIDSON. mention of tlie dangers oflf the northwest sbore of San Miguel Island. ) The ships arriveat El Puerto de Navidad, in New Spain, April 14, 1543. "de letra del tiempo," ». e., in an old manuscript of tbat period. FEEEELO. On Monday, the second day of the month of April, they departed from the Isla de Cedros on their return to New Spain, because they did not have a supply of provisions to renew their attempt to discover the coast. They arrived in El Puerto de Nividad Saturday, the fourteenth day the said month of April [1543]. Came as Captain of the ships, Bartolomfe Fei-relo, Chief Pilot of the said ships, in default of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who died in Isla do la Posesion. The men came in the said ships. (') So in the originalj without doubt by equivocation. (*) He speaks of the port where they anchored in. twenty-eight degrees. (') An equal blank in the original. Found without the name of the author, in the general archives of the Indias of Seville, in the writing of the time, among the papers brought from Simancas. File nine of Descriptions and Populations. Examined and approved. MARTIN FEENAJSTDEZ DE NAVAERETE. There is another copy of this narrative in the collection of Munoz, Vol. XXXVI, in wbioh he inserts after his cer- tificate of approval: "At the head and on the cover of this narrative occurs three times, De Juan Paez." The differences which aro noticed between the present narrative and that one are : ('') 3° and f ; (°) Nor nordeste sudueste; (^) The last two names are united thus, Qnan- mngua; (') Anaooao; (s) Caacao; (") Xuca; ('") Caco. Ul chart. J La Isla de Santa Cathalina, V F 3iJi°, C 36° "and more," F. F C, F. C, F. La Isla de Baxos,V UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. Brake (D.), and Yizcalno (7.), and, the present names and latitudes — Continued. 245 Present name of the place. San Mavtiu Island . San Ramon Bay . . . Point Santo Tomas, or Cape San Tomas. Grajero Point, or Banda Point-. do The Todos Santos Islands The Ensenada in Todos Santos \ Bay. ! Los Coronados Islands Latitude, Correction to C.,F., orD. San Diego Bay . Santa Catalina Island San Clemente Island Santa Monica Bay do The Anchorage off Lagnna Mugu San Buenaventura do Anchorage off " the Eincou "... Anchorage off ' ' the Carpinteria " . Anchorage 4 ot 5 miles west of Goleta Point. Anchorage off the Canada del Kefugio. Anchorage off Gaviota Pass o ' 30 29 30 49 31 33 31 45 31 45 31 48 31 51 32 25 32 40 33 27 32 49 34 00 — 57'F . — 75'C . — 75' F The Indian Villages at Gaviota Pass. Anchorage off Gaviota Pass . — Anchorage off El Coxo Indian Village at El Coxo Point Conoepoion, orPointCon- . ceptioDj, , The three islands, Santa Cruz, Santa Eosa, and San Miguel. San Miguel, and then Santa Cruz and Santa Eosa as one. San Miguel Island 34 05 34 17 34 17 34 22 34 24 34 25 34 27 34 27 34 28 34 27 34 28 34 29 34 27 34 27 -89'P -95' F ■ 100' F -60' F 34 03 .do .do 63' C — 63'F 73' F Eemarks. No. The anchorage under the cape Distance fiom Cape San Martin, 4 leagues. ( Anchorage in the northeast part of Todos ) } Santos Bay. ' c He has one of the largest errors in the ■> I hest-known port. ' At the great depression across the island — At the southeast head 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 A few miles east of Santa Barbara. 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 -123'C : -93' "and more," F. Ferrelo says the Indian name was Cicaout. There are two CoXos. The Coxo Viejo is one mile east of the usual anchorage El Coxo. ( LaPuntadelaCoucepcion of recent Span- I ish navigators. They overlap each other, and were seen as one great island. i One large— Santa Cruz, and Santa Eosa— and one small, which was San Miguel. Ferrelo says the Indian name was Ciqui- muymu. 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 246 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVEY. The landfalls of Cabrillo (G.) and Ferrelo (F.), with their names by Ulloa (f/.j No. Dates, 1542, 1543 Name of place by Cabrillo and Ferrelo. Latitude by Cabrillo and Ferrelo. Names by Ulloa, Drake, or Vizcaino. 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 Jan. 3, 1543..,) Mar. 5, 1543... 5 Oct. 25, 1542 Mar.5, 1543 Jan. 29, 1543 Mar.5, 1543 ( Jan. 19, 1543.. i l Feb. 14, 1543.. 5 Nov. 11, 1542 Nov.ll, 1542 Nov. 11, 1542 Nov. 11,18,1582.. Nov. 18, 1542 Nov. 18, 1542 Nov. 16, 1542.... Nov. 10,1542.... Nov. 14, 1542 ... i Feb. 25, 1543.. > lMari3, 1543... ) Feb. 25, 1543 Ffeb.26, 1543 La Isla de Juan Rodriguez El Puerto de laPosesion .. [Dangers] La Isla de SanLiicas La Isla de San Sebastian.. La Isla de San Salvador . . El Rio de Nnestra SeBora ., Las Sierras de San Martin El Cabo de Sau Martin El Cabo de Sau Martin El Cabo de Nieve (De las Sierras Nevadas) . . . La Baia de Pinos La Bahia de los Pinos El Cabo de Pinos , El Cabo de Pinos A point,' &c , El Cabo de Fortuuas F C, F. F. 'a consort. P F.'s consort. La Isla de Cleto, V. La Isla de San Ambrosio, V . 37^0, C, F. La Sierra de Santa Lucia, V. 38°, F.. 374°, F, La Punta de Pinos, V. F,t!., F. 39° "and more," F. Portus NovsB Albionis, 38°, D . . , El Puerto de San Francisco, V 40° " and more," C . 40°, F. F 41°, C UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. Drake (I).), and Vizcaino {V.), and the present naines and latitudes — Continued. 247 Present uame of the place. Latitude. Correction to C, F., orD. Eenrarks. No. O ' c So named by Ferrelo to commemorate Ca- 5 \ brillo's death on the island. J Cabrillo and Ferrelo wintered here in 1542- 1543 ; it is on the north shore of San Miguel Island. The rocks and reefs off the northwest shores of .San Miguel Island. ■ Ferrelo says the Indian name was Nicalque. 55 56 ^7 58 .59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 finvler'a Harbor 34 03 34 06i 33 57 Wilson Rock, &c S^antai Rosa l8la.ncL ..... ....... do Santa Cruz Island 34 02 34 42 36.03 36 32 36 03 37 09 c Ferrelo says the Indian name of the island ) ( was Tiimu or Limun. > CabrUlo and Ferrelo did not see it. They learned of its existence north of Point Concepoion from Indian information when in the Santa Barbara Channel. This mountain ringe is 50 miles long and overhangs the coast line. The culminat- ing point is Mount Santa Lucia, 6,000 feet elevation and 12 miles inside the shore. — 87'C.,F — 88'F — 87'F/. The height is 5,100 feet, and the distance 3i miles inland. The mountain mass 13 miles behind Point Aflo Nnevo. Embracing Black Mountain — 91'F Anchorage in Drake's Bay Drake's Bay, or the Gulf of the Farallones. 38 00 38 00 33 31 38 31 38 57 40 00 OO'D The northern part of the Gulf of the Faral- lones. "A great gulf," Cabrillo (Una Ensenada Grande.) ~\ -\» The mountain mass just east of Fort Ross } anchorage, and reaching 2,200 feet ele- > vation. La Punta de Arena of later Spanish naviga- tors. The mountain mass northward of Shelter Cove, with King Peak only 10 mUes in- land and 4,235 feet elevation, as the cul- minating point. 60' F —89' "and more." C. — 89'F King Peak, behind Panta Del- gada. 60' C UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY, 249 INDEX TO APPENDIX NO. 7-1886. PREFATORY NOTE. In consulting this index and the paper to which it relates, it will be of much advantage to refer to the map (Illustration No. 18) which Assistant Davidson has prepared to show the landfalls of Cabrillo and Ferrelo on the Pacific coast. The several items of nomenclature and other references, embracing all appearing in the original paper, are herein indexe* in groups, tinder the following headings, for convenience in collating the descriptions; but for a condensed statement of the names and positions of the places mentioned by Cabrillo and Ferrelo, and which have been identi- fied by Assistant Davidson, see his table, pp. 242-247. Authorities and Publications Consulted or Refeueed to. Discoverers and Explorers. Harbors (Ports) and Anchorages, Bays, Channels, Coves, Gulfs, Lagoons, Straits, Headlands: Capes, Points, Bluffs. Islands, Reefs, and Rocks. Mountains and Mountain Ranges (Sierras), Taele-lakds (Mesas). Rivers and Streams. Settlements: Indian Villages (Pueblos). Miscellaneous Notices. Authorities and Publications Consulted or Re- ferred to. [For the fall titles of the principal publications named in the intro- duction, see pp. 156, 157, 158.] Bnmey: "Chronological History of Voyages and Discoveries in the South Sea or Pacific Ocean." Cabrillo: In the original Spanish in Herrera, &e., and in Evans' (and Henshaw's) translation. United States Coast and Geodetic Survey Charts. United States Coast Pilot of California, Oregon, and Washington. Fourth edition. By George Davidson, Assistant, United States Coast and Geodetic Survey, 1886. Drake: "The English Hero, &c." Edition of 1739. Drake: " The World Encompassed, &c." Haklnyt Society, 1854. Ferrelo: In the original Spanish, and in Evans' (and Henshaw's) translation. United States War Department : Geographical Surveys West of the one hundredth Meridian, Vol. VII. Hakluyt: "Voyages, &c.," Vol.111. Henshaw: IntroduoHou to Evans' translation of diaries of Cabrillo and Ferrelo. Herrera: "Historia General, &o.," for voyages of Cabrillo. Hondius' Map of Drake's Voyage. (See under Drake.) Hydrographic Bureau of the United States Navy ; description of the "West Coast of Mexico, &o.'' Xohl: History of Discovery and Exploration on the Coasts of the United States. In Eeport of Superintendent United States Coast and Geodetic Survey for 1884. Mnnoz : Karrative of Ferrelo's Voyages. See p. 240 of this paper. Navarrete: Narrative of Ferrelo's Voyages. Seep.240of this paper. Eamusio ; Account (in Italian) of Voyages of (Jlloa, &o., and English translation in Hakluyt. TebenkoiT: Hydrographic description (Atlas, 1848). See pp. 184, 200 of this paper. Torquemada : Hydrographic description. See pp. 178, 182, 186 of this paper. UUoa: In Bamnsio (see above), and translation into English in Hak- luyt. Venegas: "Noticia de la California, &c.," the original used for Viz- caino's Voyages. Vizcaino: In Venegas (original), and Vizcaino's chart of the coast, as exhibited in Bnmey's volumes, Part II (see above). Discoverers and Explorers. [Jfames to be found generally throughout tliis paper for the ]jeriotl in question.* For those casually alluded to, see pages as under.] Pagi. Beechey : 214 Cabrillo (•) Cook 155 Cortes i 150,157,100 Davidson (*) Drake 155,156,157,158,214,216,218,219,240,247 Ferrelo (*) Scammon 176,186 Taravel 155, 176, 192, l&s Ulloa (*) Vancouver 165,184,192 Vizcaino (*) Harbors (Ports) and Anchorages, Bats, Channels, Coves, Gulfs, Ijagoo>ts, Straits. Abad, BahiadeSan • 164, Ana, Puerto de Santa..... Anchorage at Asuncion Point in Bay of San Cristoval off the Canada del Kefugio under Cape Pnlmo off the Carpinteria r in Drake's Bay oflFElCoxo off Fort Eoss off Gaviota Pass west of Goleta Point offtheEineon (For other anchorages, see the condensed table. BaUenas, Bahiadelas Ballenas Bay (near Drake's Bay, called after Volanos (Bola- nos), Vizcaino's pilot) Bartolom^, Puerto de San - 172, Bay of San Cristoval ._ Bay of San Quentin Bay of the Virgins i Becher's Bay (on Santa Eosa Island) 165, 242 170 243 242, 243 244, 245 243 244, 245 247 245 247 244,245 245 244, 245 168,109,242 218 173 242 172, 243 1S6 182 2-2J i}50 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SUEVET. Page. During Stialtg 157 Eoriir>b6, Baliia de San 162,163,243 Elacli WaiTior Lagoou 176 Bianco Bay 178 Bodega Bay 220 CaBadjide) Eofagio 204,244,245 Canal de Santa Barbara (Santa Barbara Channel) 198, 200, 201 Canoas, Puerto delas 238 CarmelBay 220 Cbetko Bay (an anchorage of Brake) 232 Chriatoval, Babia de San 166,167,242 Clara, Puerto de Santa .- 178,242 ColnettBay 188 Crescent City Harbor 232 Cruz, Bahia de Santa 160,161,242 Cruz, Puerto de la (or de Santa) 160,101,243 Cnyler's Harbor (on San Miguel Island) 206, 226, 236, 238, 247 Bescanso Bay 192 Biego, Puerto Bueno de San (or El Bueno Puerto) . . ) 193, 193, 194. Biego, Puerto de San (= Puerto de San Miguel) .'. 5 195, 238, 244, 245 Bomingo, Boca do San 166 Brake's Bay (Portus Nov© Albionis) . - - .136, 214, 216, 218, 219, 222, 247 Brake's Lagoon (or Estoro de Limancourt) 214,216,218 Ensenada (Jrande (of Ferrelo), (Gulf of San Xavier of Tar- . avel) , (Bay or Gulf of Sebastian Vizcaino) 176, 194, 242, 243 Estero Americano (in Bodega Bay)...' 220 Estero de Limancourt (or Brake's Lagoon) 214,216,218 EsterosBay .*. 210,211 False Bay (see San Biego Bay) 192, 194 False Bay (near Maria Point) 178 Falso, Puerto (north of San Biego Bay) 194 ]b'arallones, Ense&ada de los (of later Spanish authorities) . . 214, 246, 247 FarallonSs, Gulf of the (U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey), • 214, 222, 246, 247 rondo, Puerto 172,242 Fort Boss CoT6 222,228 Francisco, Puerto de San (of Vizcaino ; and Brake's Bay) . . . 214, 215 ' 218, 219, 246, 247 Fuegos, Bahia de los 196,244 li'umos, Bahia de los 194,196,244 GaviotaPass 204,208 Golden Gate t 218 Gulf of the Faiallones (of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Sur. vey) 214,222,246,247 Half Moon Bay 214 Hassler Cove 186 Hipolito, Bahia de San 170,171,178,179,242 Humboldt Bay .' 230 Isla de San Salvador, Puerto dela 236 Laguna Mugu 196,244,245 La Playa Maria Bay 178,243 Lucas, Puerto de San 162,243 ilagdalcna, Bahia (or Puerto) de la". 164, 242 MagJalena Bay#i 104,166,243 Magdalena, Puerto (or Bahia) dela 264,242 Mansanilla, harbor of ■ 160 Marina, Bahia de ^anta 165,242 Marques del Valle (title of Cortes), Puerto del 100,161,242 Marta, Bahia de Santa 165,242 Martin, Bahia de San.-. 164,165,166,243 Mateo, Bahiade San 238 Mateo, Puerto de San ~. ]90, 192,244 Mazatlan, harbor of IGl MigUL'l, Puerto de San (San Biego Bay) 192, 238, 244 Monterey Harbor 212 Monte-Eey, Puerto de 212,213 Morro Bay 210,211 Navidad I'ort 243 Navidad, Puerto de (of Cabrillo and Forrelo) i 157, 160, N avidad, Puerto de la (of Vizcaino) 5 161, 240, 241, 242 Novas Albionis Portus 1,56, 214, 21C M6, 247 Ona, La Bahia (corruption of La Ballona) 196 Paz, Puerto de la IjO Pedro, Puerto de San ;„ 164,242 Poilro Vincuia (Puerto do San) 172 242 I'J-r. Pelican Bay 2J2, J31 PequeuaBay 164,166,243 Pinos, Bahia, or Baia, de los (Gulf of the Farallonos) . .322, 223, 246, 247 Port Navidad 160,243 PortOrford 232 Port San Bartolomft 172,178,243 Port San Quentin 181,180,238,243 Portus Novae Albionis 156,214,216,246,247 Posesion, Puerto de la (on San Miguel Island, now Cnyler's Harhor 206,207,226,246,247 Posesion, Puerto dela (now called Port San Quentin)..,... 184, 186, ' 238, 242, 243 Quentin, Port San.. 184,186,238,242,243 HosarioBay 184 San Cosmo y San Bamian, EnaeBada de 178, 179 San Cristoval Bay 172,243 San Biego Bay 192,238,245 San Hipolito Bay 170 San Ignaoio Bay .*.. 168 Sanlgnacio Lagoon -■ 168 San Jose del Cabo (de San Lucas, station for transit of Venus, 1769) 162 San Luis Obispo Bay 210 San Lucas Bay 162,243 San Miguel Passage .238 San Pablo Bay (or Table Head Cove) 172,243 San Pedro Bay 194,196 SanBamon Bay 186,188,245 SanEoqueBay 170 San Simeon Bay _ 210 San Simon y Judes, Bahia de 188, 189,191 Santa Maria Bay 164,243 Santa Marina Bay 164,163,243 Santa Monica Bay 194,196,244 Santa Eosalia Bay ^ 178 Santiago, Puerto de 108,242 Sardinas, Puerto de las 208, 210, 227, 228, 244 Scammon's Lagoon 178, 186 Sebastian, Puerto de San « 160, 239 Sebastian Vizcaino, Bay or Gulf of (the ' ' EnseBada Grande " ofFerrelo) 176,194,242,243 Shelter Cove 230,247 Sheltered Cove (of tj. S. Coast Survey, under Cape Tomas) . 190, 245 Sir Francis Brake's Bay (see Brake's Bay) . .156,214,210,218,219,222,247 Smugglers' Cove 230,238 South Bay (off Cape San Augustin) 174 Todos Santos, .Puerto de i 208,244,245 Todos Los Santos, EnseDada do 186, 190, 191 , 238, 244 Xom^ales Bay (Tamales on some old Spanish charts) 220 TriBidad, Puerto do la 164, 242 Virgines, Bahia delas 184, 187, 242 Xavier, Bahia de San 176, 194, 243 Headlands: Capes, Points, Bluffs. Abre6j08 Point 166,168, Ana, Pnntadc Santa Aiio Nuevo, Point Antonio, Point San Arena, Point ^^ Arena, Punta de ^ 212 Arguello, Point 204 Asuncion Point 170 Augustin, Cabo de San Augnstin, Cape San Baja, Point (or Punta), nearEosario Bay 182,184, Ballcnas Point BaUast Point (in San Biego Harbor) Banda (orGrajero) Point 188, Black Point Blanco, Cabo (of Flores, Vizcaino's pilot) Blanco (orOrford), Cape Bluff Point (see Cabo del EngaHo of Vizcaino) 178, 180, California, Punta de igo Canoas, Point i7g igo Carpinteria (lowlands of the) Catalina. Punta de Santa icg 169, 170 170, 242 214, 224 180, i82 222, 24V 228, 247 2J6, 203 172, 248 174, 175 174 242. 243 214 194 190, 245 178 234, 235 234 182, 183 161,243 182, 243 202 168,242' UNITED STATES COAST A»]) GEODETIC SUEVEY, 251 Page. Colnett, Cape 1S8 <"oncepoiou (or Conception), Point i 200,204, <;oncepoion,Puntadela(of recent Spanislinavigators) 5200,20^,224,245 Corrientes, Cabo de,. 160,161.242 Corrieutes, Cape 243 Corso, Cape 164 Delgada, Point 230 Bclsada, Punta 247 Diimo, Point 196, 108 Eiigano, Cabo del (of Ulloa, Cabrillo, and Ferrelo) 180,184,185 ILngallo, Cabo do! (of Vizcaino) 180,181,183 Engafio, Cape 181 Engano, Point (or San Antonio) 180 Engafio, Fnntadel 184,242 Eugenio, Point 172,176,178 Eugenio, Pnnta de San 172,176,178 False, Cape (near Cape Toscol 163 Ferrclo, Cape (named so by IT. S. Coast Survey) 155, 232 Fortunas, Cabo de 228,229,246 Galeia, Cabode 244 Galera, Cabo de la 204,205,206,208,209,210,244 •GoldBlafPa 233 Goleta, Point .202,204,245 •Gorda, Cape 230 Grajero (orBanda) Point 188,190,245 Hipolito, Point San 170 Huenemo Point .' 198,200 Iiagoon Head (in Sebastian Vizcaino Bay) 176 Lasnen, Point 194 Lazaro, Cape San ...'. .• 164,166,243 Lazaro, Pnnta de San 166, 167 iomo, Point 192 Loma, Pantadela 194 Lacas, Cape San 155 Mack's Arch 232 MalAbrijo, Pnnta del 178,242 Maria Point' 178 Marques, Point del 162 Martin, Cabode ; .--. 212,224 Martin, Cabo de San 188, 190, 210, 212, 220, 224, 226, 244, 240 Mendocino, Cabo 230,231 Mendocino, Cape 230,231 Miguel, Cape San (or Saasal Point) 190 Morro Hermoso 172 MorroEedondo 164,105 Mugu Point 198 If ieve, Cabo de (Snowy Cape of Ferrelo) 224, 225, 226, 246 KortliwestCape(oftbeEns8ian8) 222,224,247 Orford, Cape (or Cape Blanco) 234 •Orford, Point 232 Pablo, PointSan. 172 Peninsula, the (in San Diego Harbor; formerly known as "The Island") IM Pequena Point 243 Piedras Blancas 210 Pinos, Cabode 222.228,230,246 Pinos, Point 212,247 Pinos Pnnta (or Pa. de los, of recent charts) 212, 213, 246 P.Umo,Cape «0.2« Purisima, Point 208 (Juentin, Cape San ■ 184,186 Qaentin, Point San Eedondo, Cape (see Morro Eedondo) E«yes, Point 155,214,216,218 Reyes, Punta de los 218,219 Eincon, El (Point Eincon) 202 Saint George, Point (possibly Cabo Mendocino, of Vizcaino) . 230 Sal, Point ^"^ S.an Domingo Point 166,168,243 San Eoque Point San Simon y Judes, Cabo de Santiago, Punta de .• Sauaal Point Sebastian, Cape (named so by U. S. Coast Surrey) Sebastian, Cabo Blanco de San Solitaries, Point of 184 164 172 183 168 190 2S3 232, 233 Page. Sur, Point (or '"^jiie Sur") 212 Tomaa, Cape San 188,245 Tomas, Point Santo 188,190,245 Tosco, Cape 162,103,166,243 Trinidad Head 233 Trinidad, Punta de la 162,163,164,242 Virgines, Punta de las 184 Islands, Ebefs, aijd Eocks. Abrcbjos (Habro OJo), Eocks, or Eeef 168, 169, 171, 242. 243 Af6gua (or Bird) Island 172,243 Amalgna (or Fog) Island 174,243 Ambrosio, Isla de San 202,246 Anacapa Island (Enneeapah of Vancouver) 200, 203 Arena,Islade 194 Assumpcion, Isladela 170,171 Asuncion Island 170,171 Augnstin, IsladcSan 186,214 Barbara, Islade Santa ". .: 198, C02 Baxos, Made 206,226,245 Bernardo, Isla de San 182,184.242 Bird (or Affigua) Island 173,243 Carolinas, Isla 'do las 157 CathaUna, Isla de Santa 194,195,244 Cedros, Isla delos 174, 175, 185,238, 239, 240, 242 Ceniza, Islade 179,183,183,184,186,187,244 Cerroa, Islade 174, 175,182,183,184,185,192,194,238,243 Cerros Island 155,172,174,178,238,243 Ciquimuymu (Indian name of San Miguel Island) 206, 226, 245 Cleto, Islade .206,228,240 Coronados, Islas delos , 192,193,244 Deadman's Island (El Morro of San Pedro Bay) 196, 210, 211 Desiert-as, Las Islas ' 192,244 Dolores, Los....' 176,392 Dragon Eocks (or St. George's Eeef) 230,232 Esteban, Islade San 172,174,242 Farallones de los Frayles 214,218,2:0 Farallonea Islands : the North, the Middle, the Southeast. . - 218, 220 Flat Eock (south end of Natividad Island) 174 Fog (or Anialgua) Island ." 172,243 Frayles, Los (Farallones de los Frayles) 218 Guadalupe Island (or Isla de Paxaros) 182, 187 Geronymo, Islade San j 180,182,183,242 Hilario, Islade San 186,189,244 Isles (or islands) of Saint James (of Drake) , the Farallones . - 218, 21 9 Limn (or Limun) Indian name of La Cruz Island 226, 247 Los Coronados Islands 192,193,244 Lucas, Islas do San (Santa Cruz Island and Santa Eosa Island) 204,227,228,244,245,246 Martin, Islas de San 192,193,244 Morro, El (Deadman's Island) 196,210,211 N atividad (de N uestra SeSora, Isla de) 172, 175, 192, 242 Natividad Island 155,174,178,162,243 Nioalque (Indian name of Sant^ Eosa Island) 226, 228, 247 Paxaros, Islad3 (Guadalupe Island) 182, lt7 Posesion, Isla de ." 226,244 Posesion, Isla de la (San Miguel Island) . .206, 226, 227, 230, 244, 245, 247 EeddingEock (near Trinidad Head) 230 Eodriguez, Isla do Juan (San Miguel Island) 206, 220, 23C, 238, 246 Eoque, Isla de San ". 170,171,242 Saeramento Eeef 182 Samt George's Eeef (or Dragon Eocks) 230, 232 Salvador, Isla de San (S.anta Catalina Island) . . . .194, 226, 228, 244, 246 SanBenitoa Islands 170,178 San Clemente Island 194,196,200,244,245 San Geronimo Island 182,242 San Hilario Island _. 182,187 San Martin Island = 182,166,187,245 San Miguel Island (Isla de la Posesion) 196, 200, 204. 206, 226, 227, 236, 238, 244, 245, 247 San Nicolas Island ■ 198,200 San Eoque Island 170,243 Santa Barbara Island 198,200 Santa Barbara Channel, islands of the 200 Santa Barbara Islands 200,288 252 UNITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. Page. Santa Catallna Island 104, 196, 20f, 210, 244 Santa Cniz Island 202,204,226,228,236,238,245,247 Santa Margarita Island 164, 243 Santa Eoea Island 196, 202, 204, 206, 228, 236, 238, 245, 247 Sebastian, lala de San 228,236,246 Todos Sant08,'Isla8 de '. 190 Todos Santos Islands 190,191,245 Vit toria, Isla de (is San Clemente Island) 192, 244, 245 Whale Rock (one of the 4,bre6joB Books) 168 Wilson's Eeef, orEock 236,247 Zedros, Islade 173,174,178,242 MOL'XTAINS AND MOUNTAIN EaNGES (SlERftAS), TABLE- LANDS (Mesas). Black Mountain 214,224,247 Cone Mountain (or Twin Peaks) 210,212,247 Devil's Peak (Mount Diablo) 204 Five Hummocks (of peninsula at Cape San Qaentin) 1 84 King Peak : 230,247 Loma, La (in San Diego Harbor) , 193 Loma Prieta (of San Prancisco Peninsula Eange) 224 Mesa de la Cena (Table Mountain) 192, 193 MesaEedonda (or Mesa de la Cena) 192, 193 Mesas behind Point del Marques 162 Mesas do San Cypriano 180, 181 Miraiiores (in Sierra la Victoria) 160 Morro Hermoso (Sierra Pintada) . . i 173, 176 Mount Bacbe (of San Prancisco Peninsula Eange) 224 Mount Carmel 212 Mount Diablo (Devil's Peak), on Santa Craz Island 204 Mount Pierce 230 Mount Santa Lucia 247 Mount Tamalpaie '. 214,222 Mount Tiresome (in Sierra del Enfado) , 163 Peninsula of San Prancisco 224 Pine Mountain. ; 210 Eooky Butte 21o Boss Mountain 220 San Prancisco Peninsula Eange '. 224 Santa Clara Mountains 176 Santa Cruz Mountains (Sierra de La Cruz) 224, 247 Santa Tnez Eange 208 Sierra del Enfarto _ 163 Sierra delos Siete Infantes 170, 171 Sierrade Santa Lucia (now Sierra Santa Lncia) 210, 211, 220, 224, 246, 247 Sierra la Victoria 160 Sierra Pintada (Morro Hermoso) 173,176 Sierra Santa Monica (jind Santa Clara Valley) 196 Sierras de San Martin 2 1 0, 211, 246 Sierras Nevadas (of Perrelo), San Francisco Peninsula Mountains 224, 246 San Pedro Hill 296 Sombrero Peak 130 Table Head 172 Table Mountain (of Beechey)" (see Tamalpais) 214,222 Table Mountain (Mesa de la Cena) 192 193 Tomales Peninsula 220 Twin Peaks (or Cone Mountain) 210,212 247 Vigia,La '202 Rivers and Strbvms. Arroyo Carmen igQ Carmelo, Eio de '_ 212 213 Carmel Eiver _ 212 213 Carpofero, Arroyo de San 224 Chetko River 232,234,236 Creaceut City, river at 236 ^elKi™r 230,230 Estero Americano (in Bodega Bay) 220 Esterode Limantour (or Drake's Lagoon) 214 216 21'! Humboldt Bay, river at ' '236 Elamatb River 036 Page. Mad Eiver 230,236 !ITaestra Sefiora, Eio do (Pnrisima Eiver) 210,211,246 Pigeon River 230, 2.'6 Pistol Eiver 235 Purisima (or Santa Tnez) Eiver 208,210,247 Rio Grande de Sebastian (mistake of Vizcaino), probably en- trance to Tomales Bay 220 Rogue Eiver a34, :>30 Eussian (or Slavianski) River 220. San Buenaventura Eiver igg San Eosario Eiver 182 Santa Clara Eiver iflg Santa Tnez Eiver (Purisima Eiver, now so called) 208 SauVicento Eiver igg Slavianski (or Russian) Eiver 2.0 Smith's River 234, 236 Winchuk Eiver 2i6 Settlements: Indian Villages (Pueblos). Pueblos or villages of Indians along the shores of Santa Barbara channel and islands (very populous, seventeen villages in a distance of 1 1 miles) ; references to and names of some given 184, 185-198, 208, 208-210, 226, 228, 244, 245 Villages on shores of Drake's Bay and in Nioaeio Valley -to eastward 210 217 1:18 Pneblos de las Canoas (site of Mission of San Buena- ventura) 198,199,200,244,245 Pneblos at El Coxo (pueblos de Xoxo, two villages) 208, 21 0, 249, 241, 24-) Indian province of Xucu, or Sejo 208, 210 Pueblos delas Sardinas, at Gaviota anchorage .208,209,210 228, 244, 24.-' Miscellaneous Notices. Acapulco, harbor of Aguilar, Allbrez Martin, commander of the tender to Viz- caino Alaska ^ Amadis de Gaula: Name California first found in this ro- mance Anian, Straits of ; Mythical, probably" Bering Straits Archives of the Indias of Seville. Bancroft, H. H Bering Straits Bernal Diaz del Castillo : Memoir California: Name first found in the romance of Amadis of Gaul Lower (Baja), determined to be a peninsula by tJlloa . . . Upper (Alta), name applied to region north of San Diego Carolinas, Isla de las: Name applied to Lower California... Cavendish, Captain Chappe, Auteroche de la: French observer of transit of Ve- nus (1769), near Cape San Lucas Charies II, King of Spain: The Isla de las Carolinas named after him Constanzo : Navigator in 1769 Doyle, J. T !...".'!!'!"!' Fonte, de Fort Eoss (Russian) 212 Fnoa, de La Paz Maldonado Martin, Geronymo: Cosmograpber to Vizcaino Mondoza, Don Antonio de. Count of MonteEey, Viceroy, successor to Cortes .150 157 igi Mexico, or New Spain ' Missions, sites of (future) : San Buenaventura Santo Tomas San Vicente Molera, E. T Montalvo: Translator into Spanish (in 1510) of the Amadis de Gau'a (from the Portuguese) (see full title) .' 157, 231 235 155 lee 167 240 157 157 156,157 156 157 167 167 102 162 157 212 167 157 224, 236 157 191 167 175 184, 213 156, 185 198 188 188 157 16< UXITED STATES COAST AND GEODETIC SURVEY. 253 Page. Qiianhnnliua, residence of wife of Cortes at 157 Santa Cruz : A port visited by Cortea and Ulloa 156, 157 TaquimiDO : Indian name for th,e present Haeneme 198 Zuiii,!pi, Conde de Monte-Roy - 160 Pilots on the voyages: Corm6non(215), Feniandez(161), Ferrer (Ferrelo) (ISl), Flores {i'M), Yolanos (orBolanos) (218), Ximenos (160). Page. Ships of tlie explorers: Of Ferrelo (2) : Tlie San Salvador (the "Capitana"), La Vit- toria(the "Almiranta") 161,194 OfTTlloa(2): The Santa Agneda, tlie Trinidad 186 Of Vizcaino (3): The "Capitana," the "Fragata," the "Al- miranta" 171,18» Missing Page msmmmm ■\^Ha nn: y _ '^ O^vA/^&K^'i^o^^ aa' A w■^'/-^ CjWv^ P5 mm ^HRPH ^^^f^'^Mm^^^^, '^0-?%^-^^^;; lA^^^/ lA^^^;^ «p^p^^»«?---« ^/=^/^/F^y-^ waAI ■^mmnnr^f^^ rCsrs' ;^nA; :rl/^r^A: ^/^/^/?^^r ^^^^^/^/^n^^ r^-^fvf9^'^"A'^A'