i^ iMwaiii ■ linn will .tmmm mm mi y it dn . '%y 4m "^ t '^ a- 1 v^i-1 1: e ,1-mm f^ •/^ ■«■■ ELLA F.ATON KELLOGG mwMk -<^ 111 iiiiii | |W>liw«ii«»i«%i >» » »« w»»l> w* t l '. ALBERT R, MANN LIBI^RY Cornell University Gift of Thomas Bass From Home Bakint;.^. by Edna Ev San FrancisLO, 1912 MANN SPEC. COLL TX 715 .K318 1904 co^^ '^^Bi <"> !Z /ERSITY L ill 17 3C BRARY ■ 11 1 770 The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924087301770 Science IN THE Kitchen BY ELLA EATON KELLOGG A Scientific Treatise on Food Substances and their Dietetic Properties together with a Practical Explanation of the Principles of Healthful Cookery A Thousand Choice, Pala- table, and Wholesome Recipes. Revised and Enlarged Edition. PUBLISHED BY THE MODERN MEDICINE PUBLISHING CO., LTD. Battle Creek, Mich. 3 London House Yard, Paternoster Row, London, E. C, England. Copyrighted 1892, by Mrs. E. E. KEixt.«^.(,. PREFACE THE interest in scientific cookery, particularly in cookery as related to health, has manifestly increased in this country within the last decade, as is evidenced by the success which has attended every intelligent effort toward the establishment of schools for instruction in cookery in various parts of the United States. While those in charge of these schools have presented to their pupils excellent opportunities for the acquirement of dexterity in the preparation of toothsome and tempting viands, but little attention has been paid to the science of dietetics, or what might be termed the hygiene of cookery. A little less than ten years ago the Sanitarium at Battle Creek, Mich., established an experimental kitchen and a school of cookery under the supervision of Mrs. E, E. Kellogg, since which time, researches in the various lines of cookery and dietetics have' been in constant progress in the experimental kitchen, and regular sessions of the school of cookery have been held. The school has gradually gained in popularity, and the demand for instruction has become so great that classes are in session during the entire year. During this time, Mrs. Kellogg has had constant oversight of the cuisine of both the Sanitarium and the Sanitarium Hospital, preparing bills of fare for the general and diet tables, and supplying constantly new methods and original recipes to meet the changing and growing demands of an institution numbering always from 500 to 700 inmates. These large opportunities for observation, research, and experience have gradu- ally developed a system of cookery, the leading features of which are so entirely novel and so much in advance of the methods heretofore in use that it may be justly styled A New System of Cookery. It is a singular and lamentable fact, the evil consequences of which are wide-spread, that the preparation of food, although involving both chemical and physical processes, has been less advanced by the results of modern researches and discoveries in chemistry and physics than any other department of human industry. Iron-mining, glass-making, even the homely art of brick-making, and many of the operations of the farm and the dairy, have been advantageously modified by the results of the fruitful labors of modern scientific investigators ; but the art of cookery is at least a century behind in the march of scientific progress. The mistress of the kitchen is still groping her way amid the uncertainties of mediaeval methods, and daily bemoaning the sad results of the "rule of thumb." The new cookery brings order from out the confusion of mixtures and messes, often incongruous and incompatible, which surrounds the average cook, by the eluci- dation of the principles which govern the operations of the kitchen, with the same certainty with which the law of gravity rules the planets. Those who have made themselves familiar with Mrs. Kellogg's system of cook- ery, invariably express themselves as trebly astonished : first, at the simplicity of the methods employed ; secondly, at the marvelous results both as regards palatableness, wholesomeness, and attractiveness ; thirdly, that it had never occurred to them •• to do this way before." . , ' .^ „ - [3] ^ PREFACE. This system does not consist simply of a rehash of what is found in every cook book, but of new methods, which are the result of the application of the scientific principles of chemistry and physics to the preparation of food in such a manner as to make it the most nourishing, the most digestible, and the most inviting to the eye and to the palate. Those who have tested the results of Mrs. Kellogg'* system of cookery at the Sanitarium tables, or in their own homes through the instruction of her pupils, have been most enthusiastic in their expressions of satisfaction and commendation. Hun- dreds of original recipes which have appeared in her department in Good Health have been copied into other journals, and are also quite largely represented in the pages of several cook books which have appeared within the last few years. This volume is the outgrowth of long and patient practical and experimental work. Its preparation has occupied the entire leisure time of the author during the last five or six years ; and no pains or expense has been spared to render the work authoritative on all the questions upon which it treats. Battle Creek, Mich., April, iSqa. Publishers. PREFACE TO FOURTH EDITION. Cookery is a progressive science. Within the past few years several new and very valuable food products have been developed in the food laboratories of the Battle Creek Sanitarium and put upon the market, mak- ing necessary the evolution of many new recipes for their preparation for the table. A large number of such recipes are embodied in the present edition of this book in addition to the standard articles which are always in demand. The author desires to acknowledge her indebtedness for a con- siderable number of new recipes to Mrs. E. B. Perkins, Mrs. H. H. Ward, Mrs. Lulu T. Burden, Miss Lucy Winegar, and Miss Lenna F. Cooper, also to several of her pupils who have done excellent original work in the field of experimental cookery. Recipes marked with a star (*) are contributed. A number of new and novel illustrations make plain the processes by which some of the more difficult dishes are prepared. Taken as a whole, it is believed that this volume will be found superior to its predecessors in scope and usefulness. Battle Creek, Mich., May 1, 1904. Publishers. TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE Foods 25 Properties of food — Food elements — Uses of food elements — Proper combinations of foods — Proper proportion of food elements — Condiments — Relation of condiments to intemper- ance — Variety in food — Table topics. The Digestion of Foods 35 The digestive organs — The digestion of a mouthful of bread — Mastication — Salivary digestion — Stomach digestion — In- testinal digestion — Other uses of the digestive fluids — Absorp- tion — Liver digestion — Time required for digestion — Hygiene of digestion — Hasty eating — Drinking freely at meals — Eat- ing between meals — Simplicity in diet — Eating when tired — Eating too much — How much food is enough — Excess of cer- tain food elements — Deficiency of certain food elements — Food combinations — Table topics. Cookery 45 Evils of bad cookery — The principles of scientific cookery — Fuels — Making fires — Care of fires — Methods of cooking — Roasting — Broiling or grilling — Baking — The oven ther- mometer — The boiling-point of water — How to raise the boiling-point of water — Action of hot and cold water upon foods — Steaming — Stewing — Frying — Adding foods to boiling liquids — Evaporation — Measuring — Comparative table of weights and measures — Mixing materials — Stirring — Beating — Kneading — Temperature — Cooking utensils — Porcelain ware — Granite ware — Galvanized iron ware — Tests for lead-adulterated tin — Table topics. The Household Workshop 66 Description of a convenient kitchen — The kitchen furniture — Cupboards — A convenient kitchen table — The kitchen sink — Drain-pipes — Stoves and ranges — Oil and gas stoves — The "Aladdin Cooker " — Kitchen utensils — The tin closet — The dish closet — The pantry — The storeroom — The refrig- erator — The water supply — Test for pure water — Filters — (5) b TABLE OF CONTENTS Cellars — Kitchen conveniences — The steamcooker — The vegetable press — The lemon drill — The handy waiter — The wall cabinet — The percolater holder — Kneading table — Dish-towel rack — Kitchen brushes — Vegetable brush — Table topics. Cereals and their Preparation for the Table 78 General properties of grains — Cooking of grains — The double boiler — Table showing amount of liquid, and time required for cooking different grains — Grains for breakfast — Grains an economical food — Wheat — Description of a grain of wheat — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Pearled wheat, Browned wheat, Cracked wheat, Rolled wheat, Boiled wheat, Wheat with raisins, Wheat with fresh fruit. Molded wheat — Finer mill products of wheat — Recipes: Farina, Farina with fig sauce. Farina with fresh fruit. Molded farina, Wheatose, Graham porridge, Graham porridge molded, Graham porridge with nut meal, Graham porridge with dates. Plum porridge, Gra- ham apple porridge. Breakfast Granola, fruit Granola, peach Granola, Bran jelly — The oat, description of — Oatmeal — Brose — Flummery — Budrum — Preparation and cooking of oats — Recipes: Oatmeal, Oatmeal with fruit. Oatmeal blanc- mange. Oatmeal blancmange No. 2, Jellied oatmeal, Mixed grains. Rolled oats, Oatmeal with apple, Oatmeal porridge — Barley, description of — Gofio — Scotch milled or pot barley — Pearled barley — Suggestions for cooking barley — Recipes : Baked barley. Pearled barley with raisins. Pearled barley with lentil gravy — Rice, description of — Rice paddy — Preparation and cooking of rice — Recipes: Steamed rice. Boiled rice, Rice with fig sauce. Orange rice. Rice with raisins. Rice with peaches. Browned rice — Rye, description of — Rye meal — Rye flour — Recipes: Rolled rye. Rye mush — Maize, or Indian corn, de- scription of — Suggestions for cooking corn — Recipes: Corn meal. Corn meal with fruit, Corn meal cubes. Browned corn meal. Samp, Cerealine flakes. Hulled corn. Coarse hominy, Fine hominy or grits. Popped corn — Macaroni, description of — Semolina — Spaghetti — Vermicelli — To select macaroni — To prepare and cook macaroni — Recipes: Home-made maca- roni. Macaroni with egg sauce, Macaroni with cream sauce, Macaroni with tomato sauce. Macaroni baked with granola, Eggs and macaroni. Fruit macaroni — Table topics. Breadstuffs and Breadmaking log The origin of bread — Chestnut bread — Peanut bread — Breadstuffs — Qualities necessary for good bread — Superiority of bread over meat — Graham flour — Wheat meal — Whole- TABLE Of CONXENtS 7 wheat or entire wheat flour — How to select flour — To keep flour — Deleterious adulterations of flour — Tests for adul- terated flour — Chemistry of breadmaking — Bread made light by fermentation — The process of fermentation — Fermenta- tive agents — Yeast — Home-made yeasts — How to keep yeast — Bitter yeast — Tests for yeast — Starting the bread — Pro- portion of materials needed — Utensils — When to set sponge — Temperature for breadmaking — How to set the sponge — Lightness of the bread — Kneading the dough — How to manip- ulate the dough in kneading — How many times shall bread be kneaded — Dryness of the surface — Size of loaves — Proper temperature of the oven — How to test the heat of an oven — Care of bread after baking — Best method of keeping bread — Test of good fermented bread — Whole-wheat and Graham breads — Toast — Steamed bread — Liquid yeast — Recipes : Raw potato yeast, Raw potato yeast No. 2, Hop yeast, Boiled potato yeast. Boiled potato yeast No. 2, Raisin yeast — Fer- mented breads — Recipes: Milk bread with white flour, Vienna bread. Water bread, Fruit roll. Fruit loaf. Potato bread. Pulled bread. Whole-wheat bread, Whole-wheat bread No. 2, Miss B's one-rising bread. Potato bread with whole-wheat flour. Rye bread, Graham bread, Graham bread No. 2, Graham bread No. 3, Raised biscuit, Rolls, Imperial rolls, French rolls. Cres- cents, Parker House rolls. Braid, Brown bread. Date bread, Fruit loaf with Graham and whole-wheat flour. Raised corn bread, Corn cake, Oatmeal bread. Milk yeast bread, Graham salt-rising bread — Unfermented breads — Passover cakes — Tortillas — Evils of chemical bread raising — Rochelle salts in baking powder — General directions — Gem irons — Per- forated sheet-iron pan for rolls — Unfermented batter breads — Unfermented dough breads — Recipes: Whole- wheat puffs. Whole-wheat puffs No. 2, Whole-wheat puffs No. 3, Graham puffs, Graham puffs No. 2, Currant puffs, Graham gems. Water Graham puffs, Rye puffs, Rye puffs No. 2, Rye gems. Blueberry gems, Hominy gems, Sally Lunn gems. Corn puffs, Corn puffs No. 2, Corn puffs No. 3, Corn puffs No. 4, Corn dodgers. Corn dodgers No. 2, Cream corn cakes. Hoe cake, Oatmeal gems, Snow gems, Pop-overs, Granola gems. Bean gems, Breakfast rolls. Sticks, Cream Graham rolls, Corn mush rolls. Fruit rolls, Cream mush rolls. Beaten biscuit. Cream crisps. Cream crisps No. 2, Graham crisps, Oatmeal crisps, Graham crackers. Fruit crackers — Table topics. Fruits 164 Chemical constituents of — Value as nutrients — Structure of TABLE OF CONTENTS fruits — Digestibility of fruits — Unripe fruits — The jelly-pro- ducing principle — Table of fruit analysis — Ripe fruit and digestive disorders — Over-ripe and decayed fruits — Danger- ous bacteria on unwashed fruit — Free use of fruit lessens de- sire for alcoholic stimulants — Beneficial use of fruits in dis- ease — Description and classification of fruits — Apples — The pear — The quince — The peach — The plum — The prune — The apricot — The cherry — The olive, its cultivation and preservation — The date, description and uses of — The orange — The lemon — The s-weet lemon or bergamot — The citron — The Hme — The grape fruit — The grape — The pome- granate, its antiquity — Zante currants — The goose- berry—The currant — The v^^hortleberry and blueberry — The cranberry — The strawberry — The raspberry — The black- berry — The mulberry — The melon — The fig, its antiquity and cultivation — The banana — Banana meal — The pineapple — Fresh fruit for the table — Selection of fruit for the table — Directions for serving fruits — Keeping fresh fruit — Direc- tions for packing, handling, and keeping fruits — Recipes: To keep grapes. To keep lemons, oranges, and cranberries — Cooked fruit — General suggestions for cooking fruit — Recipes: Baked apples. Citron apples, Lemon apples. Baked pears. Baked quinces. Pippins and quince. Baked apple sauce. Baked apple sauce No. 2, Apples stewed whole. Steamed apples. Compote of apples, Apple compote No. 2, Stewed pears, Smooth apple sauce, Boiled apples with syrup. Stewed apples. Stewed crab apples. Sweet apple sauce with condensed apple juice. Apples with raisins. Apples with apricots Peaches, plums, cherries, berries, and other small fruits. Baked apples. Baked pears, Baked peaches, Cranberries, Cranberries with raisins. Cran- berries and sweet apples. Oranges and apples. Stewed raisins, Dried apples, Dried apples with other dried fruit. Dried apricots and peaches. Evaporated peach sauce. Dried pears, Small fruits. Prunes, Prune marmalade — Preserva- tion of fruit — Canning fruit — Selection of Cans — How to test and sterilize cans — Selection of fruit — Direc- tions for preparing fruit — Cooking fruit for canning — Stor- ing of canned fruit — Mold on canned fruit — Opening canned fruit — Rules for selecting canned fruit — Recipes for canning fruit — Fruit jellies — Recipes for fruit jellies — Fruit juices, value of — How to prepare fruit juices — Recipes: Grape juice or unfermented wine. Grape juice No. 2, Another method, Fruit syrup, Currant syrup. Orange syrup. Lemon syrup, Lemon syrup No. 2, Blackberry syrup, Fruit ices — Drying Fruit — Fruit salads — Recipes: Orange dressing, Pineapple dressing, Miss B.'s sweet salad dressing. Quince dressing. Raspberry salad, TABLE OP CONTENTS ^ Strawberry and orange salad, Orange and pineapple, Banana salad, Banana salad No. 2, Orange and banana. Peach salad. Peach and banana salad. Pineapple and peach salad, Pineapple salad, Sweet apple salad, Tomato salad. Tomato dressing for salad, Date and walnut salad, Apple and banana salad. Cream salad dressing, Fruit salad. Currant salad — Table topics. The Legumes 217 Composition and nutritive value — Legumes as a substitute for animal food — Legumin, or vegetable casein — Chinese cheese — Legumes the "pulse" of Scripture — Diet of the pyramid builders — Digestibility of legumes — A fourteenth century recipe — The green legumes — Suggestions for cooking — Slow cooking preferable — Soaking the dry seeds — Effects of hard water upon the legumes — Temperature of water for cooking — Amount of water required — Addition of salt to legumes — Peas, description of — Buying votes with peas — A commemo- rative dinner — Peas bainocks — Peas pudding — Peas sau- sages — Time required for cooking — Recipes: Stewed split peas. Peas puree, Mashed peas. Peas cakes. Dried green peas — Beans, description of — Mention of beans in Scripture — Beans in mythology — Time required for digestion — Method of cook- ing — Experiment of an English cook — Parboiling beans — Time required to cook — Recipes: Baked beans. Boiled beans. Beans boiled in a bag, Scalloped beans. Stewed beans. Mashed beans. Stewed Lima beans. Succotash, Pulp succotash. Rich baked beans — Lentils, description of — Use of lentils by the ancients — Lentil meal — Preparation for cooking — Recipes: Lentil puree. Lentils mashed with beans, Lentil gravy with rice — ^Table topics. Vegetables 228 Composition and nutritive value of vegetables — Exclusive diet of vegetables not desirable — To select vegetables — Poison in potato sprouts — Stale vegetables a cause of illness — Keep- ing vegetables — To freshen withered vegetables — Storing winter vegetables — Preparation and cooking — To clean veg- etables for cooking — Methods of cooking — Time required for cooking — Bain-marie — The Irish potato, description of — The chemistry of cooking — Digestibility of the potato — New potatoes — Preparation and cooking — Recipes : Potatoes boiled in " jackets," Boiled potatoes without skins. Steamed potatoes, Roasted potatoes. Baked potatoes. Stuffed potatoes. Stuffed potatoes No. 2, Mashed potatoes, New potatoes. Cracked pota- toes. Creamed potatoes. Scalloped potatoes. Stewed pota- toes, Potatoes stewed with celery. Potato snowballs, Potato 10 tAELE OF CONTENTS cakes, Potato cakes with egg, Potato puff, Browned potatoes, Ornamental potatoes, Broiled potatoes, Warmed-over potatoes. Vegetable hash — The sweet potato, description of — Prepara- tion and cooking — Recipes: Baked sweet potatoes. Baked sweet potatoes No. 2, Boiled sweet potatoes. Steamed sweet potatoes, Browned sweet potatoes. Mashed sweet potatoes. Potato hash. Roasted sweet potatoes — I'urnips, description of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Boiled turnips. Baked turnips. Creamed turnips, Chopped turnips. Mashed turnips. Scalloped turnips. Steamed turnips, Stewed turnips. Turnips in juice, Turnips with cream sauce — Parsnips, description of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Baked parsnips. Baked parsnips No. 2, Boiled parsnips. Browned parsnips, Creamed parsnips. Mashed parsnips. Parsnips with cream sauce, Parsnips with egg sauce, Parsnips with potatoes. Stewed parsnips. Stewed parsnips with celery — Carrots, description of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Boiled carrots, Carrots with egg sauce, Stewed carrots — Beets, description of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Baked beets. Baked beets No. 2, Beets and potatoes, Beet hash, Beet greens. Beet salad or chopped beets, Beet salad No. 2, Boiled beets, Stewed beets — Cabbage, description of — Prep- aration and cooking — Recipes: Baked cabbage, Boiled cabbage. Cabbage and tomatoes, Cabbage celery. Cabbage hash, Chopped cabbage or cabbage salad. Mashed cabbage, Stewed cabbage — Cauliflower and Broccoli, description of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Boiled cauliflower. Browned cauliflower. Cauliflower with egg sauce. Cauliflower with tomato sauce. Stewed cauliflower. Scalloped cauliflower — Spinach, descrip- tion of — Preparation and cooking — Celery, description of — To keep celery fresh — Recipes: Celery salad, Stewed celery. Stewed celery No. 2, Celery with tomato sauce. Celery and potato hash — Asparagus, description of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Asparagus and peas, Asparagus points. As- paragus on toast. Asparagus with cream sauce. Asparagus with egg sauce, Stewed asparagus — Sea-kale, description of — Let- tuce and radish, description of — Recipes: Lettuce, Tomato dressing for lettuce. Radishes — Cymling, summer squash, or vegetable, description of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Mashed squash. Squash with egg sauce. Stewed squash — Win- ter squashes, description of — Preparation and cooking — Time required for cooking — Recipes: Baked squash, Steamed squash — The pumpkin, description of — Recipes: Baked pumpkin. Stewed pumpkin. Dried pumpkin — Tomato, description of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Baked tomatoes, Baked tomatoes No. 2, Scalloped tomatoes, Stewed corn and tomatoes. Tomato gravy, Tomato salad. Tomato salad No. 2, Broiled TABLE OF CONTENTS. 11 tomatoes. Tomato pudding, Stewed tomatoes, Tomato with okra — Egg plant, description of — Nutritive value — Recipes: Scalloped egg plant, Baked egg plant — Cucumber, description of — Digestibility — Salsify or vegetable oyster, description of — Preparation and cooking — Recipes: Scalloped vegetable oysters. Stewed vegetable oysters — Green corn, peas, and beans, description of — General suggestions for selecting and cooking — Recipes for corn: Baked corn, Baked corn No. 2, Boiled green corn, Stewed corn pulp, Corn cakes, Corn pudding, Roasted green corn. Stewed green corn. Summer succotash, Dried corn — Recipe for peas: Stewed peas — Recipes for beans: Lima beans, Shelled beans. String beans — The onion — Canning vegetables — Recipes: Canned corn. Canned corn and tomatoes. Canned peas. Canned tomatoes. Canned tomatoes No. 2, String beans. Canned pumpkin and squash — Table topics. Soups 271 Value of soup as an article of diet — Superiority of soups made from grain and legumes — Economical value of such soups — Digestibility of soups — Cooking of material for soups — Use of a colander in preparing soups — Quantity of salt required — Flavoring soups — Seasoning of soup — Chinese soup strainer — Whole grains, macaroni, shredded vegetables, etc., for soups — Milk in the preparation of soups — Consistency of soups — Preparation of soups from left-over fragments — Croutons — Soups without Milk, Recipes: Baked bean soup. Bean and to- mato soup, Black bean soup, Bran stock, Combination soup. Combination soup No. 2, Dried pea soup, Kornlet and tomato soup. Lentil and corn soup. Miss B's Irish corn soup, Mrs. H's sago fruit soup. Split pea soup, Swiss lentil soup. Tomato and macaroni soup. Vegetable soup. Vegetable pea soup — Soups with Milk and Cream, Recipes: Asparagus Soup, Bean and corn soup, Bean and hominy soup. Bean and potato soup, Brown soup. Canned green pea soup. Canned corn soup. Carrot soup, Celery soup, Celery soup No. 2, Chestnut soup. Combination soup, Another, Cream pea soup. Cream barley soup. Green corn soup. Green pea soup. Green bean soup, Kornlet soup, Lentil soup. Lentil and parsnip soup, Lima bean soup, Macaroni soup. Oatmeal soup. Parsnip soup, Parsnip soup No. 2, Pea and tomato soup, Plain rice soup. Potato and rice soup, Potato soup, Sago and potato soup, Scotch broth. Sweet potato soup, Swiss potato soup, Tomato cream soup. Tomato and okra soup, Tomato soup with vermicelli. Vegetable oyster soup, Vegetable soup, Vegetable soup No. 2, Vegetable soup No. 3, Velvet soup. Ver- micelli soup. White celery soup — Table topics. 12 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Breakfast Dishes 287 Importance of a good breakfast — Requirements for a good breakfast — Pernicious custom of using fried and indigestible foods for breakfast — Use of salted foods an auxiliary to the drink habit — The ideal breakfast — Use of fruit for breakfast — Grains for breakfast — An appetizing dish — Preparation of zwieback — Preparation of toast — Recipes: Apple toast, Apri- cot toast, Asparagus toast, Banana toast, Berry toast, Berry toast No. 2, Celery toast. Cream toast, Cream toast with poached tgg, Cherry toast. Gravy toast. Dry toast with hot cream. Grape toast. Lentil toast. Prune toast. Peach toast, Snowflake toast. Tomato toast, Vegetable oyster toast — Miscellaneous breakfast dishes: Brewis, Blackberry mush. Dry granola. Frumenty, Mac- aroni with raisins. Macaroni with kornlet. Peach mush. Roasted rice. Baked apples with gluten mush, Oregon toast — Table topics. Desserts 296 Appropriate and healthful desserts — Objections to the use of desserts — The simplest dessert — General suggestions — Im- portance of good material — Preparation of dried fruit for dessert — Molded desserts — Suggestions for Havoring: Cocoa- nut flavor, Orange and lemon flavor. To color sugar — Fruit desserts — Recipes: Apple dessert, Apple meringue dessert, Apple rose cream, Apple snow. Baked apples with cream. Baked sweet apple dessert. Bananas in syrup. Baked bananas, Fresh fruit compote. Grape apples. Peach cream. Prune dessert — Desserts made of fruit with grains, bread, etc. — Recipes: Apple sandwich, Apple sandwich No. 2, Baked apple pudding. Barley fruit pudding. Barley fig pudding, Blackberry cornstarch pud- ding, Cocoanut and cornstarch blancmange. Cornstarch blanc- mange. Cornstarch with raisins. Cornstarch with apples. Corn- starch fruit mold. Cornstarch fruit mold No. 2, Escalloped bananas. Nut loaf, Fruit roll. Farina blancmange. Farina fruit mold, Filled bananas, Pyramid of peaches. Fruit meringues, Plain fruit pudding or Brown Betty, Prune pudding. Rice meringue. Rice snowball. Rice fruit dessert. Rice dumpling. Rice cream pudding, Rice pudding with raisins. Red rice mold. Rice and fruit dessert, Rice and tapioca pudding. Rice flour mold. Rice and stewed apple dessert. Rice and strawberry des- sert. Stewed fruit pudding, Strawberry minute pudding. Sweet apple pudding, Whortleberry pudding — Desserts with tapioca, sago, manioca, and sea moss — Recipes: Apple tapioca, Apple tapioca No 2, Banana dessert. Blackberry tapioca. Cherry pud- TABLE OF CONTENTS. 13 ding, Fruit tapioca, Molded tapioca with fruit, Pineapple tap- ioca. Prune and tapioca pudding. Tapioca and fig pudding. Peach tapioca, Tapioca jelly, Apple sago pudding, Red sago mold, Sago fruit pudding. Sago pudding, Manioca with fruit. Rasp- berry manioca mold. Sea moss blancmange — Desserts made with gelatine — Gelatine an excellent culture medium — Dan- gers in the use of gelatine — Quantity to be used — To prepare Sanitas Vegetable Gelatine for desserts — Recipes: Lemon jelly. Orange jelly. Pineapple mold, Apple jelly, Orange fruit mold. Banana and other fruit molds. Apples in jelly. Fruit charlotte, Mock chicken jelly No. i. Mock chicken jelly No. 2, Chocolate mold No. I, Chocolate mold No. 2, Chocolate charlotte. Fruit sandwich, Layer pudding. Lemon gelee. Pineapple gelee. Lemon sherbet. Pineapple and orange sherbet. Peach sandwich, Nut pound-cake. Cake with orange cream filling. Chocolate gelee — Desserts with crusts — Recipes: Apple tart, Apple tart with nut crust, Strawberry and other fruit shortcakes, Banana shortcake, Lemon shortcake, Berry shortcake with prepared cream. Cream, Raised pie. Baked apple loaf — Custard puddings — Importance of slow cooking — Best utensils for cooking — Custard desserts in cups — To stir beaten eggs into heated milk — To flavor cus- tards and custard puddings — Recipes: Apple custard, Apple custard No. 2, Apple custard No. 3, Apple cornstarch custard, Apple and bread custard. Almond cornstarch pudding. Almond cream, Apple charlotte. Banana custard. Boiled custard. Boiled custard bread pudding. Bread and fruit custard. Bread custard pudding. Bread and fig pudding. Bread and apricot pudding, Car- amel custard, Carrot pudding, Cocoanut cornstarch pudding, Co- coanut custard, Cocoanut rice custard, Corn meal pudding, Corn meal pudding No. 2, Corn meal and fig pudding. Cornstarch meringue, Cracked wheat pudding, Cup custard, Farina custard. Farina pudding. Floating island, Fruit custard, Wheatose pud- ding, Ground rice pudding, Lemon pudding. Almond cream cup custard, Granuto and apple pudding, Cream whip with granose flakes, Macaroni pudding. Molded rice or snowballs. Orange float. Orange custard. Orange pudding. Peach meringue, Picnic pudding, Plain cornstarch pudding. Plain custard. Prune pud- ding. Prune whip. Rice apple custard pudding, Rice custard pud- ding, Rice snow. Rice snow with jelly. Rice with eggs. Snow pudding. Steamed custard. Chocolate macaroons, Cherry cas- serole, Pop-co/n pudding, Sago custard pudding. Sago and fruit custard pudding. Snowball custard, Tapioca custard. Tapioca pudding. Vermicelli pudding. White custard. White custard No. 2 — Steamed pudding — Precautions to be observed in 14 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Steaming puddings — Recipes: Batter pudding, Bread and fruit custard, Date pudding. Rice balls, Steamed bread custard, Steamed fig pudding — Pastry and cake — Deleterious effects from the use of — Reasons for indigestibility — General direc- tions for making pies — Recipes: Paste for pies, Corn meal crust, Granola crust, Paste for tart shells. Cream filling. Grape tart, Lenion filling. Tapioca filling, Apple custard pie. Vegetable mince. Nut mince for pies, Cocoanut pie, Cocoanut pie No. 2, Cream pie. Cranberry pie. Dried apple pie. Dried apple pie with raisins. Dried apricot pie. Farina pie. Fruit pies, Grape jelly pie. Fruit and nut pie. Lemon pie. Lemon meringue custard. One-crust peach pie. Orange pie. Peach custard pie, Prune pie, Pumpkin pie. Pumpkin pie No. 2, Pumpkin pie without eggs, Simple custard pie, Squash pie. Squash pie without eggs — Sweet apple custard pie. Sweet potato pie — Cake — General sugges- tions for preparation of — Cake made light with yeast — Cake made light with air — Recipes: Apple cake. Delicate cup cake, Fig layer cake. Fruit jelly cake. Gold and silver cake. Icing for cakes. Simple sponge cake. Fruit cake, Jelly cake. Fruit cake. Loaf cake, Pineapple cake. Plain buns. Sponge cake, Sugar crisps. Sunshine cake. Nut sponge cake, Mrs. N's white sponge cake — Table Topics. Gravies and Sauces 350 Importance of proper preparation — Accuracy of measurement — Proportion of material necessary — The double boiler for cooking gravies — Flavoring of gravies for vegetables — Gravies and sauces for vegetables — Recipes: Brown sauce, Cream or white sauce. Celery sauce. Egg sauce. Pease gravy, Tomato gravy, Tomato cream gravy, Gluten gravy — Sauces for desserts and puddings — Recipes: Browned cream sauce, Cocoanut sauce. Cream sauce. Cranberry pudding sauce, Cus- tard sauce. Egg sauce, Egg sauce No. 2, Foamy sauce. Fruit cream. Fruit sauce, Fruit sauce No. 2, Lemon pudding sauce, Mock cream. Molasses sauce. Orange sauce, Peach sauce. Plain pudding sauce. Red sauce, Rose cream. Sago sauce. Whipped cream sauce, Meltose sauce. Almond cream sauce — Table topics. Beverages 357 Large quantities of fluid prejudicial to digestion — Wholesome beverages — The " cup that cheers but not inebriates " — Harm- ful substances contained in tea — Theine — Tannin — Use of tea a cause of sleeplessness and nervous disorders — Tea a stimulant TABLE OF CONTENTS. IS — Tea not a food — Coffee, cocoa, and chocolate — Caffeine — Adulteration of tea and coffee — Substitutes for tea and coffee — Recipes: Beet coffee, Caramel coffee, Caramel coffee No. 2, Caramel coffee No. 3, Caramel coffee No. 4, Mrs. T's caramel coffee. Parched grain coffee, Wheat, oats, and barley coffee — Recipes for cold beverages: Blackberry beverage. Fruit bev- erage. Fruit beverage No. 2, Fruit cordial. Grape beverage, Lemonade, Mixed lemonade. Oatmeal drink. Orangeade, Pine- apple beverage. Pineapple lemonade, Pink lemonade. Sherbet, Tisane — Table topics. Milk, Cream, and Butter 364 Milk, chemical composition of — Proportion of food elements — Microscopic, examination of milk — Casein — Casein coag- ulated by the introduction of acid — Spontaneous coagulation or souring of milk — Adulteration of milk — Quality of milk in- fluenced by the food of the animal — Diseased milk — Kinds of milk to be avoided — Distribution of germs by milk — Proper utensils for keeping milk — Where to keep milk — Dr. Dougall's experiments on the absorbent properties of milk — Washing of milk dishes — Treatment of milk for cream rising — Temper- ature at which cream rises best — Importance of sterilizing milk — To sterilize milk for immediate use — To sterilize milk to keep — Condensed milk — Cream, composition of — Changes produced by churning — Skimmed milk, composition of — But- termilk, composition of — Digestibility of cream — Sterilized cream — Care of milk for producing cream — Homemade creamery — Butter, the composition of — Rancid butter — Tests of good butter — Flavor and color of butter — Artificial butter — Test for oleomargarine — Butter in ancient times — Butter making — Best conditions for the rising of cream — Upon what the keeping qualities of butter depend — Cheese — Tyrotoxicon — Recipes: Hot milk, Devonshire or clotted cream. Cottage cheese. Cottage cheese from buttermilk, Cottage cheese from sour milk, French butter. Shaken milk — Table topics. Eggs 380 Eggs a concentrated food — Composition of the egg — How to choose eggs — Quality of eggs varied by the food of the fowl — Stale eggs — Test for eggs — How to keep eggs — To beat eggs — Albumen susceptible to temperature — Left-over eggs — Recipes: Eggs in shell. Eggs in sunshine, Eggs poached in tomatoes. Eggs in cream. Poached or dropped eggs. Poached eggs with cream sauce. Quickly prepared eggs, Scrambled eggs, 16 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Steamed eggs, Whirled eggs — Omelets — Recipes: Plain om- elet, Foam omelet, Fancy omelets, Soft omelet. Eggs a la Mar- tin, Gluten olive omelet — Table topics. Nuts and Nut Foods 389 Value of nuts as a food — Nutritive value — When to be eaten — Emulsified fats in nuts — Albumen in nuts — Almond — Brazil nuts — Cocoanut — Chestnut — Hazelnut, filbert, cobnut, — Walnut, butternut, hickory nut — Pecan — Peanut, or ground-nut — Nuts containing starch should be cooked — Rec- ipes: To blanch almonds. To blanch peanuts, To keep nuts fresh, Cocoanut cream. Nut meal. Nut pulp, Peanut butter, Boiled chestnuts. Mashed chestnuts. Baked chestnuts, Chest- nut soup. Lentil and chestnut soup. Roasted almonds. Cooked peanuts. Peanut and tomato puree, Baked peanuts with tomato, Peanuts baked like beans, Baked rich peanuts, Baked pignolias, Lentil and nut loaf. Lentil and nut loaf No. 2, Savory nut loaf. Nut meal grain dressing. Nut rolls. Nut sticks. Nut crisps, Cocoanut crisps, Cocoanut corn bread. Walnut buns, Cocoanut corn dressing — Nut preparations — Protose — Nut butters — Protose and Nuttolene Recipes: Stewed protose, Stewed pro- tose with tomato. Potato stew with protose, simmered protose. Stewed nuttolene, Nuttolene and tomato, Protose stew. Stew or ragout of protose. Savory protose stew, Protose stew with rice. Stewed protose with roasted rice, Protose with onions. Fricassee of protose. Fricassee of protose No. 2, Stewed pro- tose and mashed beans. Stewed nuttolene and protose with tomato, Minced protose. Boiled protose. Broiled nuttolene, Veg- etarian Chili sauce, Nuttolene with mint sauce. Poached egg on protose steak. Nut Lisbon steak. Nut Lisbon steak No. 2, Nut steak in gravy, Protose steak in tomato with ripe olives. Mock Hamburger steak, Protose and nuttolene in shells, Nuttolene cutlets. Nut cutlets. Custard sauce for cutlets, Protose cutlets, Nut fillets. Vegetable cutlets, Brown sauce. Baked protose, Crust patties, Basted protose. Braized protose. Braized protose No. 2, Escalloped protose. Nut croquettes, Protose and granose cro- quettes, Protose and rice croquettes, Protose croquettes, Hom- iny croquettes. Rice macaroni croquettes. Casserole of rice and protose. Cream celery sauce. Stuffed protose with brown gravy, Stuffed protose. Stuffed protose with vegetable oysters, Protose fish, Casseroles of protose with potato, Protose and gluten patties, Nuttolene cottage cheese. Vegetarian roast, Protose tim- bales. Browned hash, Nut and rice roast, Protose roast, Protose patties, Protose patties No. 2, Protose patties No. 3, Macaroni TABLE OF CONTENTS. 17 with nuttolene, Protose roast, Protose roast No. 2, Protose roast No. 3, Protose roast No. 4, Protose roast with tomato sauce, Protose roast with potato, Pressed protose loaf, Pressed nut loaf broiled, Protose roast with brown gravy, Macaroni with protose, Protose hash. Baked protose and granola, Nut roast. Cereal roast. Roast imperial. Sauce imperial. Vegetable roast or mock turkey, Protose and nuttolene pie, Nuttolene pie with potato crust, Nuttolene a la creme, Nuttolene fricassee. Vegetarian roast, Swiss lentil roast. Rice and lentil croquettes. Pea and celery croquettes — Nut products with vegetables, Rec- ipes: Protose with green vegetables, Escalloped potato with protose and nuttolene, Stewed potatoes in cocoanut sauce, Sweet potato cutlets. Potato del Monico cream roll. Baked hulless beans, Oakhill potato. Potato stew with protose. Stuffed potatoes, Protose with mashed potato border of roses, Spanish stew, Nut Irish stew, Protosed potato. Stuffed tomatoes, Nut and tomato timbales. Macaroni au gratin. Spinach on toast, with broiled nuttolene, Nuttolene and corn. Nut corn pudding. Corn pudding, Protose timbale with spinach soufHe, Spinach souffle — Nut salads and relishes. Recipes: Protose salad. Mayonnaise dressing, Mayonnaise dressing No. 2, Sunflower Mayonnaise, Mock chicken salad, Protose and celery salad. Cream salad dressing. Potato salad, Protose salad. Red salad. Ideal tomato catsup. Ideal Chili sauce, Golden salad — Nut cream and nut butter, Recipes: Nut butter as seasoning. Nut butter, Nut cream. Nut milk, Nuttolene, Canned pea soup. Gluten soup, Lentil and tomato soup, Baked cabbage. Nut butter puffs. Baked savory peas. Corn baked with zwieback, Browned corn-meal biscuits, Cocoanut crusts. Mashed beans with walnuts. Stewed beans with nut butter. Baked beans with nuts. Bean patties. Marbled beans. Bean pudding with tomato sauce. Pease patties with tomato sauce. Pease patties No. 2, Corn patties. Macaroni with pease gravy, Pea and celery croquettes. Savory lentils. Lentils with nuts. Lentil patties. Bean and lentil patties. Rice and lentil croquettes. Lentil dressing, Vegetable roast, Nut and vegetable roast, Nut sauce. Cream of almond soup — Soup stock. Recipes: Nut soup stock, Tomato and macaroni soup. Canned corn soup. Bean and corn soup, Lima bean soup, Pea and tomato soup, Protose soup. Lentil and tomato soup, Juilienne soup. As- paragus soup. Nut and rice soup. Nut and barley soup, Nut and ripe olive soup, Nut and lemon-juice broth. Nut and lentil soup, Nut and grape-juice fruit soup. Fruit soup — Sandwiches, Rec- ipes: Ribbon sandwich. Sweet sandwich. Fig sandwich, Olive sandwich, Hulless bean sandwich. Potato sandwich. Fruit sand- 2 18 TABLE OF CONTENTS. wich, Calcutta sandwich, Protose sandwich, Protose sandwich No. 2, Nut sandwich. Food for the Sick 4^6 Need of care in the preparation of food for the sick — What constitutes proper food for the sick — Knowledge of dietetics an important factor in the education of every woman — No special dishes for all cases — Hot buttered toast and rich jellies objectionable — The simplest food the best — Scrupulous neat- ness in serving- important — To coax a capricious appetite — A " purple " dinner — A " yellow " dinner — To facilitate the serving of hot foods — Cooking utensils — Gruels — Long-con- tinued cooking needed — Use of the double boiler in the cook- ing of gruels — Gruel strainers — Recipes : Arrowroot gruel. Barley gruel, Egg gruel, Egg gruel No. 2, Farina gruel. Flour gruel. Gluten gruel. Gluten gruel No. 2, Gluten cream. Gluten meal gruel, Graham gruel, Wheatose gruel. Gruel of prepared flour, Indian meal gruel. Lemon oatmeal gruel. Milk oatmeal gruel. Milk porridge. Oatmeal gruel. Oatmeal gruel No. 2, Oat- meal gruel No. 3, Peptonized gluten gruel. Raisin gruel. Rice water. Toasted corn flake gruel — Preparations of milk — Milk diet — Advantages of — Quantity of milk needed — Digest- ibility of milk — Recipes: Albuminized milk. Hot milk. Junket, or milk curd. Koumiss, Milk and lime water. Peptonized milk for infants — Liquid foods, broths, etc. — Nutritive value — Testimony of Dr. Austin Flint — Recipes: Vegetable broth. Vegetable broth No. 2, Mixed vegetable broths. Vegetable bouil- lon, Protose broth. Malted nuts, Meltose, Bromose, Almond cream. Hot almond milk. Almond milk with lemon, Sanitas porridge. Potato gluten puree. Savory potato gluten puree. Po- tato gluten omelet, Potato gluten porridge. Potato gluten por- ridge No. 2, Potato gluten porridge No. 3 — Grains for the sick — Recipes: Gluten mush. Tomato gluten. Tomato gluten No. 2, Baked apples with gluten mush, Toasted wheat flakes. To prepare for the table. Tomatoes with toasted wheat flakes. Toasted wheat flakes with oranges. Toasted wheat flakes with sliced bananas, Granuto, Granuto cakes, Granuto and malted nuts gruel, Granuto with almond or peanut cream, Granuto and baked banana, Granose flakes, Granose flakes with egg. Manna, Granose fruit dessert, Granose fruit pie, Granose short- cake, Granose biscuits. Toasted corn flakes, Poached eggs on corn flakes. Toasted corn flake porridge. Drop cake. Corn flakes with fruit — Fruits for the sick — Dr. J. H. Kellogg on fruits — Man's natural bill of fare — Fruits in disease — " Grape cure " — TABLE OF CONTENTS. 19 Germ-destroying property of fruit juice — Fruit acids — Fruit in rheumatism — Fruit in obesity — Nutritive value of — Fruit juices in fevers — Fruit soup as used by German physicians — Fruit in constipation — Fruit diet for the relief of chronic symptoms — Two-meal-a-day plan — Apples — Pears — Pine- apple — Lemon juice in hemorrhage — Strawberry — Combina- tion of fruits with nuts — Eggs for the sick — Recipes: Floated ^gg, Gluten meal custard, Gluten custard, Steamed eggs. Soft custard, Raw eggs. White of egg. White of egg and milk — Refreshing drinks and delicacies for the sick — Nature's del- icacies — How to serve — Fruit juices — Recipes: Acorn coffee. Almond milk, Apple beverage, Apple beverage No. 2, Apple toast water. Baked milk. Barley lemonade. Barley and fruit drink. Barley milk. Cranberry drink, Currantade, Crust coffee. Egg cream. Egg cream No. 2, Egg cream No 3, Egg lem- onade. Flaxseed tea, Gum arable water, Hot water, Hot lemon- ade, Irish moss lemonade, Orangeade, Plain lemonade, Slippery elm tea. Toast water, Tamarind water — Bread — Recipes: Wheat loaf, Hoecake, Diabetic biscuit, Diabetic biscuit No. 2, Gluten meal gems, Almond meal gems. The Daily Menu 453 A perplexing problem — Requisites for a well-arranged menu — Suggestions for preparing bills of fare — Table of food analyses — Sample seasonable menus — Table topics. Appendix 464 Protose Broth — Nut and Tomato Bisque Soup — Cream of Spinach Soup — Tomato and Celery Soup — Nut and Bean Soup — Clear Tomato Soup — Cream of Lettuce Soup — Cream of Browned Onion Soup — Fruit Soup — Bouillon — Savory Roast — Lentil Sauce — Panned Pro- tose — Mock Veal Loaf — Rice Croquettes — Grape Catsup — Brown Sauce — Nut Patties — Protose Roast with Dressing — Browned Cream Gravy — Spanish Eggs — Scalloped Eggs — Potato Cutlets — Macaroni Cutlets — Cream of Tomato Sauce — Asparagus Canapes — Corn Roast —Creamed Baked Potatoes — Creamed Spinach — Bean Croquettes — Lyonnaise Potatoes — Baked Cabbage a la Russe — Scalloped Corn — Lettuce Sandwich — French Apple Toast — Cucumber Sandwich — Baked Tomato on Toast — Corn Pone — Cheese Straws — Cottage Cheese Sandwich — Spinach on Toast — Cucumber Jelly Salad — To- mato Jelly Salad — Fruit Salad — Golden Salad Dressing — French Dressing — Vegetable Oyster Salad — Cream Chicken Salad — Cream Salad Dressing — Royal Salad — String Bean Salad — French Salad — Peas and Celery Salad — Banana and Walnut Salad — Date and Apple Salad — Date and Walnut Salad — Fig Puffs — Cocoanut Macaroons — Steamed Fruit Pudding — Raspberry Sauce — Date Sauce for Pud- dings — Hard Sauce — Lemon Filling for Cake — Pumpkin Pie — Date Cream Pie — New England Cream Tart Pie — Baked Indian Pudding — Date Bread Pudding— Fruit Punch — Raspberry Nectar-.-Peach Sherbet— The Fuel Value of Foods— Calories. 20 TABLE OF CONTENTS. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE The Alimentary Canal 36 An Oven Thermometer 50 A Convenient Kitchen Table ... 63 A Double Boiler 67 Compartment Sink for Dishwash- ing (open) 68 The Same (closed) 69 The Steam Cooker 71 Vegetable Press 71 Lemon Drill 72 The Handy Waiter 72 Wall Cabinet 73 Percolator Holder 74 Kneading Table 74 Dish-Towel Rack 75 Vegetable Brush 76 A Double Boiler 82 PAGE Sectional View of Wheat Kernel 86 Measuring Cups 127 Bread Pan 134 Mexican Woman Making Tortillas 148 Stone Metate 149 Gem Irons 152 Perforated Sheet-Iron Pan for Rolls 152 Making Unfermented Bread 153 Canning Utensils 197 Bain Marie 232 Chinese Soup Strainer 273 Creamery 371 Oriental Butter-Making 374 Gruel Strainer 429 ' Extension Strainer 429 PLATES. PAGE Some Ancient Millers 88 A Japanese Dinner — The Maca- roni Vender 98 A Neapolitan Macaroni Factory 104 Ancient Methods of Grinding Meal 112 Bread Dough after and before Fermentation — ■ Fermented Breads 130 Kneading Fermented Bread Dough 132 Unfermented Batter Bread 156 Unfermented Batter Breads 158 Unfermented Dough Bread 160 Unfermented Dough Breads .... 162 Dainty Ways of Serving Fruit. . 168 Fruit Wafers and Cream Sticks Autumn Fruits 186 Fruit Canning 193 Making Soup (Peas) 274 Preparing Zwieback for Fruit Toast 290 Fruit Wafers and Cream Sticks — An Ideal Breakfast — A Fruit and Grain Breakfast.. 294 Fruit Charlotte 313 Cherry Fruit Mold 314 Preparing Vegetable Gelatine for Fruit Gelee 316 Fruit Gelee — Finishing Processes 318 Layer Pudding — Orange Fruit Mold 319 PAGE Dainty Ways of Serving Fruit Gelee 322 Crust Shells for Filling. Linen Pie — Granola Pie-Crust 337 Lemon Pie with Granola Crust — Health Bon Bons— Nut Cake 345 Nut Cake 348 Gluten Olive Omelet — Protose Steak in Tomato with Olives 388 Nut Pound Cake 390 Protose and Nuttolene in Shells 402 Protose and Nuttolene Rolls — Poached Egg with Ripe Olives —Nut Roast 409 The Invalid's Tray 411 Protose Salad 414 Granose Flakes 421 Granose Biscuit 440 Mock Chicken Jelly 448 Marbled Beans — Strawberry Shortcake 459 Rice Croquettes— Peas and Cel- ery Salad 464 Potato Cutlets — Asparagus Can- apes Protose Roast with Dressing 467 Cucumber Sandwich — Cottage Cheese Sandwiches 469 Bean Croquettes — Baked Cabbage a la Russe 474 INTRODUCTION. \\0 one thing over which we have control exerts so marked ■'■ ' an influence upon our physical prosperity as the food we eat ; and it is no exaggeration to say that well-selected and scientifically prepared food renders the partaker whose diges- tion permits of its being well assimilated, superior to his fellow- mortals in those qualities which will enable him to cope most successfully with life's difficulties, and to fulfill the purpose of existence in the best and truest manner. The brain and other organs of the body are affected by the quality of the blood which nourishes them, and since the blood is made of the food eaten, it follows that the use of poor food will result in poor blood, poor muscles, poor brains, and poor bodies, incapable of first-class work in any capacity. Very few persons, however, ever stop to inquire what particular foods are best adapted to the manufacture of good blood and the maintenance of perfect health ; but whatever gratifies the palate or is most conven- iently obtained, is cooked and eaten without regard to its die- tetic value. Far too many meals partake of the characteristics of the one described in the story told of a clergyman who, when requested to ask a blessing upon a dinner consisting of bread, hot and tinged with saleratus, meat fried to a crisp, potatoes swimming in grease, mince pie, preserves, and pickles, de- murred on the ground that the dinner was " not worth a bless- ing." He might with equal propriety have added, "and not worth eating." [21] 22 INTRODUCTION. The subject of diet and its relation to human welfare, is one deserving of the most careful consideration. It should be studied as a science, to enable us to choose such materials as arq best adapted to our needs under the varying circumstances of cli- mate, growth, occupation, and the numerous changing condi- tions of the human system ; as an art, that we may become so skilled in the preparation of the articles selected as to make them both appetizing and healthful. It is an unfortunate fact that even among experienced housekeepers the scientific prin- ciples which govern the proper preparation of food, are but lit- tle understood, and much unwholesome cookery is the result. The mechanical mixing of ingredients is not sufficient to secure good results ; and many of the failures attributed to "poor ma- terial," "bad luck," and various other subterfuges to which cooks resort to excuse themselves, are more correctly attributable to ignorance of scientific principles. The common method of blindly following recipes, with no knowledge of "the reason why," can hardly fail to be often productive of unsatisfactory results, which to the uninformed seem quite inexplicable. Cookery, when based upon scientific principles, ceases to be the difficult problem it so often appears. Cause and effect fol- low each other as certainly in the preparation of food as in other things ; and with a knowledge of the underlying principles, and faithfulness in carrying out the necessary details, failure be- comes almost an impossibility. There is no department of hu- man activity where applied science offers greater advantages than in that of cookery, and in our presentation of the subjects treated in the following pages, we have endeavored, so far as consistent with the scope of this work, to give special promi- nence to the scientific principles involved in the successful pro- duction of wholesome articles of food. We trust our readers will find these principles so plainly elucidated and the subject INTRODUCTION. i^ SO interesting, that they will be stimulated to undertake for themselves further study and research in this most important branch of household science. We have aimed also to give special precedence of space to those most important foods, the legumes, and grains and their products, which in the majority of cook books are given but little consideration or are even left out altogether, believing that our readers will be more interested in learning the many palatable ways in which these especially nutritious and inexpensive foods may be prepared, than in a reiteration of such dishes as usually make up the bulk of the average cook book. In the recipes given, the fat of nuts and dairy cream are made use of for the reason that emulsified fats are more readily digested than oils and free fats; but lest there be some who may suppose that because these occupy so frequent a place in the recipes, and because of their inability to obtain either the nut or dairy cream, the recipes are therefore not adapted to their use, we wish to state that a large proportion of the recipes in which these are mentioned as seasoning or for dressing, will be found to be very palatable with the cream omitted. We ought also to mention in this connection, that wherever dairy cream is recommended, unless otherwise designated, the quality used in the preparation of the recipes is that of single or twelve hour cream sufficiently diluted with milk, so that one fourth of each quart of milk is reckoned as cream. If a richer quality than this be used, the quantity should be diminished in proportion ; otherwise, by the excess of fat, a wholesome food may become a rich, unhealthful dish. In conclusion, the author desires to state that no recipe has been admitted to this work which has not been thoroughly tested by repeated trials, by far the larger share of such being original, either in the combination of the materials used, the 24 INTRODUCTION. method employed, or both materials and method. Care has been taken not to cumber the work with useless and indifferent recipes. It is believed that every recipe will be found valu- able, and that the variety offered is sufficiently ample, so that under the most differing circumstances, all may be well served. We trust therefore that those who undertake to use the work as a guide in their culinary practice, will not consider any given recipe a failure because success does not attend their first efforts. Perseverance and a careful study of the direc- tions given, will assuredly bring success to all who possess the natural or acquired qualities essential for the practice of that most useful of the arts, — " Healthful Cookery." Ella E. Kellogg. Battle Creek, April 20, i8g2. ['HE purposes of food are to promote growth, to supply force and heat, and to furnish material to repair the waste which is constantly taking place in the body. ^"•1 Every breath, every thought, every motion, wears out some portion of the delicate and wonderful house in which we live. Various vital processes remove these worn and useless particles ; and to keep the body in health, their loss must be made good by constantly renewed supplies of material properly adapted to replenish the worn and impaired tissues. This ren- ovating material must be supplied through the medium of food and drink, and the best food is that by which the desired end may be most readily and perfectly attained. The great di- versity, in character of the several tissues of the body, makes it necessary that food should contain a variety of elements, in order that each part may be properly nourished and replenished. The Food Elements. — The various elements found in food are the following : Starch, sugar, fats, albumen, mineral substances, indigestible substances. [25] 26 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. The digestible food elements are often grouped, according to their chemical composition, into three classes ; viz., carbo- naceous, nitrogenous, and inorganic. The carbonaceous class includes starch, sugar, and fats ; the nitrogenous, all albuminous elements ; and the inorganic comprises the mineral elements. Starch is found only in vegetable foods ; all grains, most vegetables, and some fruits, contain starch in abundance. Sev- eral kinds of sugar are made in nature's laboratory ; cane, grape, fruit, and milk sugar. The first is obtained from the sugar-cane, the sap of maple trees, and from the beet root. Grape and fruit sugars are found in most fruits and in honey. Milk sugar is one of the constituents of milk. Glucose, an arti- ficial sugar resembling grape sugar, is now largely manufactured by subjecting the starch of corn or potatoes to a chemical proc- ess ; but it lacks the sweetness of natural sugars, and is by no means a proper substitute for them. Albumen is found in its purest, uncombined state in the white of an ^%%, which is almost wholly composed of albumen. It exists, combined with other food elements, in many other foods, both animal and vegetable. It is found abundant in oatmeal, and to some ex- tent in the other grains, and in the juices of vegetables. All natural foods contain elements which in many respects resemble albumen, a.nd are so closely allied to it that for convenience they are usually classified under the general name of" albumen." The chief of these is gluten, which is found in wheat, rye, and bar- ley. Casein, found in peas, beans, and milk, and the fibrin of flesh, are elements of this class. Fats are found in both animal and vegetable foods. Of animal fats, butter and suet are common examples. In vegeta- ble form, fat is abundant in nuts, peas, beans, in various of the grains, and in a few fruits, as the olive. As furnished by nature in nuts, legumes, grains, fruits, and milk, this element is always found in a state of fine subdivision, which condition is the one best adapted to its digestion. As most commonly used, in the form of free fats, as butter, lard, etc., it is not only difficult of digestion itself, but often interferes with the digestion of the other food elements which are mixed with FOODS. 27 it. It was doubtless never intended that fats should be so modified from their natural condition and separated from other food elements as to be used as a separate article of food. The same may be said of the other carbonaceous elements, sugar and starch, neither of which, when used alone, is capable of sustaining life, although when combined in a proper and natural manner with other food elements, they perform a most im- portant part in the nutrition of the body. Most foods contain a percentage of the mineral elements. Grains and milk furnish these elements in abundance. The cellulose, or woody tissue, of vegetables, and the bran of wheat, are examples of in- digestible elements, which although they cannot be converted into blood and tissue, serve an important purpose by giving bulk to the food. With the exception of gluten, none of the food elements, when used alone, are capable of supporting life. A true food substance contains some of all the food elements, the amount of each varying in different foods. Uses of the Food Elements. — Concerning the purpose which these different elements serve, it has been demonstrated by the experiments of eminent physiologists that the carbona- ceous elements, which in general comprise the greater bulk of the food, serve three purposes in the body, i. They furnish material for the production of heat ; 2. They arc a source of force when taken in connection with other food elements ; 3. They replenish the fatty tissues of the body. Of the carbona- ceous elements, — starch, sugar, and fats, — fats produce the greatest amount of heat in proportion to quantity ; that is, more heat is developed from a pound of fat than from an equal weight of sugar or starch ; but this apparent advantage is more than counterbalanced by the fact that fats are much more diffi- cult of digestion than are the other carbonaceous elements, and if relied upon to furnish adequate material for bodily heat, would be productive of much mischief in overtaxing and producing disease of the digestive organs. The fact that nature has made a much more ample provision of starch and sugars than of fats in man's natural diet, would seem to indicate that they were 28 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. intended to be the chief source of carbonaceous food ; never- theless, fats, when taken in such proportion as nature supplies them, are necessary and important food elements. The nitrogenous food elements especially nourish the brain, nerves, muscles, and all the more highly vitalized and active tissues of the body, and also serve as a stimulus to tissue change. Hence it may be said that a food deficient in these elements is a particularly poor food. The inorganic elements, chief of which are the phosphates, and the carbonates of potash, soda, and lime, aid in furnishing the requisite building material for bones and nerves. Proper Combinations of Foods. — While it is important that our foods should contain some of all the various food ele- ments, experiments upon both animals and human beings show it is necessary that these elements, especially the nitrogenous and carbonaceous, be used in certain definite proportions, as the system is able to appropriate only a certain amount of each ; and all excess, especially of nitrogenous elements, is not only useless, but even injurious, since to rid the system of the sur- plus imposes an additional task upon the digestive and excre- tory organs. The relative proportion of these elements neces- sary to constitute a food which perfectly meets the requirements of health, is about eight of carbonaceous to one of nitrogenous. Scientists have devoted much careful study and experimentation to the determination of the quantities of each of the food ele- ments required for the daily nourishment of individuals under the varying conditions of life, and it has come to be commonly accepted that of the nitrogenous material which should consti- tute one eighth of the nutrients taken, one and one-half to two ounces is all that can be utilized in twenty-four hours, by a healthy adult of average weight, doing ordinary work. Many articles of food are, however, deficient in one or the other of these elements, and need to be supplemented by other articles containing the deficient element in superabundance, since to employ a dietary in which any one of the nutritive elements is lacking, although in bulk it may be all the digestive organs can manage, is really starvation, and will in time occasion serious results. FOODS. 29 It is thus apparent that much care should be exercised in the selection and combination of food materials. The table on page 484, showing the nutritive values of various foods, should be carefully studied. Such knowledge is of first importance in the education of cooks and housekeepers, since to them falls the selection of the food for the daily needs of the household ; and they should not only understand what foods are best suited to supply these needs, but how to combine them in accordance with physiological laws. Condiments. — By condiments are commonly meant such substances as are added to season food, to give it ''a relish" or to stimulate appetite, but which in themselves possess no real food value. To this category belong mustard, ginger, pepper, pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, cloves, spices, and other similar substances. That anything is needed to disguise or improve the natural flavor of food, would seem to imply either that the article used was not a proper alimentary substance, or that it did not answer the purpose for which the Creator designed it. True condiments, such as pepper, pepper sauce, ginger, spice, mustard, cinnamon, cloves, etc., are all strong irritants. This may be readily demonstrated by their application to a raw surface. The intense smarting and burning occasioned are ample evidence of their irritating character. Pepper and mus- tard are capable of producing powerfully irritating effects, even when applied to the healthy skin where wholly intact. It is surprising that it does not occur to the mother who applies a mustard plaster to the feet of her child, to relieve congestion of the brain, that an article which is capable of producing a blister upon the external covering of the body, is quite as capable of producing similar effects when applied to the more sensitive tissues within the body. The irritating effects of these substances upon the stomach are not readily recognized, simply because the stomach is supplied with very few nerves of sensation. That condiments induce an intense degree of irritation of the mucous membrane of the stomach, was abundantly demon- strated by the experiments of Dr. Beaumont upon the unfor- tunate Alexis St. Martin. Dr. Beaumont records that when St. Martin took mustard, pepper, and similar condiments with 30 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. his food, the mucous membrane of his stomach became intensely red and congested, appearing very much like an inflamed eye. It is this irritating effect of condiments which gives occasion for their extended use. They create an artificial appetite, similar to the incessant craving of the chronic dyspeptic, whose irritable stomach is seldom satisfied. This fact with regard to condiments is a suflficient argument against their use, being one of the greatest causes of gluttony, since they remove the sense of satiety by which Nature says, "Enough." To a thoroughly normal and unperverted taste, irritating condiments of all sorts are very obnoxious. It is true that Nature accommodates herself to their use with food to such a degree that they may be employed for years without apparently producing very grave results ; but this very condition is a source of injury, since it is nothing more nor less than the go- ing to sleep of the sentinels which nature has posted at the portal of the body, for the purpose of giving warning of danger. The nerves of sensibility have become benumbed to such a degree that they no longer offer remonstrance against irritat- ing substances, and allow the enemy to enter into the citadel of life. The mischievous work is thus insidiously carried on year after year until by and by the individual breaks down with some chronic disorder of the liver, kidneys, or some other im- portant internal organ. Physicians have long observed that in tropical countries where curry powder and other condiments are very extensively used, diseases of the liver, especially acute congestion and inflammation, are exceedingly common, much more so than in countries and among nations where condiments are less freely used. A traveler in Mexico, some time ago, described a favorite Mexican dish as composed of layers of the following ingredients : " Pepper, mustard, ginger, pepper, po- tato, ginger ; mustard, pepper, potato, mustard, ginger, pep- per." The common use of such a dish is sufficient cause for the great frequency of diseases of the liver among the Mexicans, noted by physicians traveling in that country. That the use of condiments is wholly a matter of habit is evident from the fact that different nations employ as condiments articles which FOODS. 3 1 would be in the highest degree obnoxious to people of other countries. For example, the garlic, so freely used in Russian cookery, would be considered by Americans no addition to the natural flavors of food ; and still more distasteful would be the asafetida frequently used as a seasoning in the cuisine of Persia and other Asiatic countries. The use of condiments is unquestionably a strong auxiliary to the formation of a habit of using intoxicating drinks. Persons addicted to the use of intoxicating liquors are, as a rule, fond of stimulating and highly seasoned foods ; and although the converse is not always true, yet it is apparent to every thoughtful person, that the use of a diet composed of highly seasoned and irritating food, institutes the conditions neces- sary for the acquirement of a taste for intoxicating liquors. The false appetite aroused by the use of food that " burns and stings," craves something less insipid than pure cold water to keep up the fever the food has excited. Again, condiments, like all other stimulants, must be continually increased in quantity, or their effect becomes diminished ; and this leads directly to a demand for stronger stimulants, both in eating and drinking, until the probable tendency is toward the dram-shop. A more serious reason why high seasonings lead to intem- perance, is in the perversion of the use of the sense of taste. Certain senses arc given us to add to our pleasure as well as for the practical, almost indispensable, use they are to us. For instance, the sense of sight is not only useful, but enables us to drink in beauty, if among beautiful surroundings, without doing us any harm. The same of music and other harmonies which may come to us through the sense of hearing. But the sense of taste was given us to distinguish between wholesome and unwholesome foods, and cannot be used for merely sensuous gratification, without debasing and making of it a gross thing. An education which demands special enjoyment or pleasure through the sense of taste, is wholly artificial ; it is coming down to the animal plane, or below it rather ; for the instinct of the brute creation teaches it merely to eat to live. 32 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Yet how wide-spread is this habit of sensuous gratification through the sense of taste ! If one calls upon a neighbor, he is at once offered refreshments of some kind, as though the greatest blessing of life came from indulging the appetite. This evil is largely due to wrong education, which begins with childhood. When Johnnie sits down to the table, the mother says, "Johnnie, what would you like .'" instead of putting plain, wholesome food before the child, and taking it as a matter of course that he will eat it and be satisfied. The child grows to think that he must have what he likes, whether it is good for him or not. It is not strange that an appetite thus pampered in childhood becomes uncontrollable at maturity ; for the step from gormandizing to intoxication is much shorter than most people imagine. The natural, unperverted taste of a child will lead him to eat that which is good for him. But how can we expect the children to reform when the parents continually set them bad examples in the matter of eating and drinking.? The cultivation of a taste for spices is a degradation of the sense of taste. Nature never designed that pleasure should be divorced from use. The effects of gratifying the sense of taste differ materially from those of gratifying the higher senses of sight and hearing. What we see is gone ; nothing remains but the memory, and the same is true of the sweetest sounds which may reach us through the ears. But what we taste is taken into the stomach, and what has thus given us brief pleasure through the gratification of the palate, must make work in the alimentary canal for fourteen hours before it is disposed of. Variety in Food. — Simplicity of diet should be a point of first consideration with all persons upon whom falls the respon- sibility of providing the family bills of fare, since the simplest foods are, as a rule, the most healthful. Variety is needed ; that is, a judicious mingling of fruits, grains, and vegetables ; but the general tendency is to supply our tables with too many kinds and to prepare each dish in the most elaborate manner, until, in many households, the cooking of food has come to be almost the chief end of life. While the preparation of food FOODS. 33 should be looked upon as of so much importance as to demand the most careful consideration and thought as to its suitability, wholesomeness, nutritive qualities, and digestibility, it should by no means be made to usurp the larger share of one's time, when simpler foods and less labor would afford the partakers equal nourishment and strength. A great variety of foods at one meal exerts a potent influ- ence in creating a love of eating, and is likewise a constant temptation to overeat. Let us have well-cooked, nutritious, and palatable food, and plenty of it ; variety from day to day, but not too great a variety at each meal. The prevalent custom of loading the table with a great num- ber of viands, upon occasions when guests are to be enter- tained in our homes, is one to be deplored, since it is neither conducive to good health nor necessary to good cheer, but on the contrary is so laborious and expensive a practice that many are debarred from social intercourse because they cannot afford to entertain after the fashion of their neighbors. Upon this subject a well-known writer has aptly said: "Simplify cook- ery, thus reducing the cost of living, and how many longing individuals would thereby be enabled to afford themselves the pleasure of culture and social intercourse ! When the barbarous practice of stuffing one's guests shall have been abolished, a social gathering will not then imply, as it does now, hard labor, expensive outlay, and dyspepsia. Perhaps when that time arrives, we shall be sufficiently civilized to demand pleasures of a higher sort. True, the entertainments will then, in one sense, be more costly, as culture is harder to come by than cake. The profusion of viands now heaped upon the table, betrays poverty of the worst sort. Having nothing better to offer, we offer victuals ; and this we do with something of that complacent, satisfied air with which some more northern tribes present their tidbits of whale and walrus." 3 TABLE TOPICS. "Let appetite wear reason's golden chain, And find in due restraint its luxury." A man's food, when he has the means and opportunity of selecting it, suggests his moral nature. Many a Christian is trying to do by prayer that which cannot be done except through corrected diet. — Talmage. Our pious ancestors enacted a law that suicides should be buried where four roads meet, and that a cart-load of stones should be thrown upon the body. Yet, when gentlemen or ladies commit suicide, not by cord or steel, but by turtle soup or lobster salad, they may be buried on consecrated ground, and the public are not ashamed to read an epitaph upon their tombstones false enough to make the marble blush. — Horace Mann. It is related by a gentleman who had an appointment to breakfast with the late A. T. Stewart, that the butler placed before them both an elaborate bill of fare ; the visitor selected a list of rare dishes, and was quite abashed when Mr. Stewart said, "Bring me my usual breakfast, — oatmeal and boiled eggs." He then explained to his friend that he found simple food a necessity to him, otherwise he could not think clearly. That unobscured brain applied to nobler ends would have won higher results, but the principle remains the same. — Sel. Study simplicity in the number of dishes, and variety in the character of the meals. — Set. I HAVE come to the conclusion that more than half the disease which em- bitters life is due to avoidable errors in diet, . . . and that more mischief, in the form of actual disease, of impaired vigor, and of shortened life, accrues to civilized man from erroneous habits of eating than from the habitual use of alcoholic drink, considerable as I know that evil to be. — Sir Henry Thompson. The ancient Gauls, who were a very brave, strong, and hardy race, lived very abstemiously. Their food was milk, berries, and herbs. They made bread of nuts. They had a very peculiar fashion of wearing a metal ring around the body, the size of which was regulated by act of Parliament. Any man who outgrew in circum- ference his metal ring was looked upon as a lazy glutton, and consequently was dis- graced. To keep in health this rule is wise : Eat only when you need, and relish food. Chew thoroughly that it may do you good, Have it well cooked, unspiced, and undisguised. — Leonardo da Vinci, [34] pT is important that the housekeeper not only understand the nature and composition of foods, but she should also know something of their digestive properties, since food, to ^ be serviceable, must be not only nutritious, but easily di- gested. Digestion is the process by which food is rendered soluble, and capable of being absorbed for use in carrying on the various vital processes. The digestive apparatus consists of a long and tortuous tube called the alimentary canal, varying in length from twenty-five to thirty feet, along which are arranged the various digestive organs, — the mouth, the stomach, the liver, and the pancreas, — each of which, together with the intestines, has an important function to perform. In these various organs nature manufact- ures five wonderful fluids for changing and dissolving the sev- eral food elements. The mouth supplies the saliva ; in the walls of the stomach are little glands which produce the gastric juice ; the pancreatic juice is made by the pancreas ; the liver secretes bile ; while scattered along the small intestines are minute [3S] 36 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. glands which make the intestinal juice. Each of these fluids has a particular work to do in transforming some portion of the food into suitable material for use in the body. The saliva acts upon the starch of the food, changing it into sugar ; the gastric juice digests albumen and other nitrogenous ele- ments ; the bile digests fat, and aids in the ab- sorption of other food elements after they are digested ; the pancreatic juice is not confined in its action to a single ele- ment, but digests starch, fats, and the albuminous elements after they have been acted upon by the gastric juice ; the intes- tinal juice acts upon all the digestible food ele- ments, including the sugar. The Digestion of a Mouthful of Bread.— A mouthful of bread repre- sents all, or nearly all, the elements of nutrition. Taking a mouthful of bread as a representative of food in general, it may be said that its digestion begins the moment it en- ters the mouth, and con- The Alimentary Canal. ..Esopnagus:i. Stomach: tiuUCSthe entire length c. Cardiac Orifice: d. Pylorus; e. Small Intestine; c <-Vio olimoi-if ^r-ii- r-anal /. Bile Duct; £•. Pancreatic Duct; A. Ascending Co- OI ^"-^ aiimeniary CaUdl, Recium.^"""'"' '^°'°"= -^ °"""'"' ^°'°""^- or until the digestible THE DIGESTION OF FOODS. • 37 portion of the food has been completely digested and absorbed. We quote the following brief description of the digestive proc- ess from Dr. J. H. Kellogg's Second Book in Physiology*: — '^Mastication. — The first act of the digestive process is mas- tication, or chewing the food, the purpose of which is to crush the food and divide it into small particles, so that the various digestive fluids may easily and promptly come into contact with every part of it. " Salivary Digestion. — During the mastication of the food, the salivary glands are actively pouring out the saliva, which mingles with the food, and by softening it, aids in its division and prepares it for the action of the other digestive fluids. It also acts upon the starch, converting a portion of it into grape- sugar. " Stomach Digestion. — After receiving the food, the stomach soon begins to pour out the gastric juice, which first makes its appearance in little drops, like beads of sweat upon the face when the perspiration starts. As the quantity increases, the drops run together, trickle down the side of the stomach, and mingle with the food. The muscular walls of the stomach con- tract upon the food, moving it about with a sort of crushing action, thoroughly mixing the gastric juice with the food. During this process both the openingsof the stomach are closed tightly. The gastric juice softens the food, digests albumen, and coagulates milk. The saliva continues its action upon starch for some time after the food reaches the stomach. "After the food has remained in the stomach from one to three hours, or even longer, if the digestion is slow, or indiges- tible foods have been eaten, the contractions of the stomach become so vigorous that the more fluid portions of the food are squeezed out through the pylorus, the lower orifice of the stomach, thus escaping into the intestine. The pylorus does not exercise any sort of intelligence in the selection of food, as was once supposed. The increasing acidity of the contents of the stomach causes its muscular w^alls to contract with increasing * Published by the American Book Co., New York. 38 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. vigor, until finally those portions of the food which may be less perfectly broken up, but which the stomach has been unable to digest, are forced through the pylorus. " Intestinal Digestion. — As it leaves the stomach, the par- tially digested mass of food is intensely acid, from the large quantity of gastric juice which it contains. Intestinal digestion cannot begin until the food becomes alkaline. The alkaline bile neutralizes the gastric juice, and renders the digesting mass slightly alkaline. The bile also acts upon the fatty elements of the food, converting them into an emulsion. The pancreatic juice converts the starch into grape-sugar, even acting upon raw starch. It also digests fats and albumen. The intestinal juice continues the work begun by the other digestive fluids, and, in addition, digests cane-sugar, converting it into grape- sugar. " Other Uses of the Digestive Fluids. — In addition to the uses which we have already stated, several of the digestive fluids possess other interesting properties. The saliva aids the stomach by stimulating its glands to make gastric juice. The gastric juice and the bile are excellent antiseptics, by which the food is preserved from fermentation while undergoing digestion. The bile also stimulates the movements of the intestines by which the food is moved along, and aids absorption. It is re- markable and interesting that a fluid so useful as the bile should be at the same time composed of waste matters which are being removed from the body. This is an illustration of the wonder- ful economy shown by nature in her operations. " The food is moved along the alimentary canal, from the stomach downward, by successive contractions of the muscular walls of the intestines, known as peristaltic movements, which occur with great regularity during digestion. *^ Absorption. — The absorption of the food begins as soon as any portion has been digested. Even in the mouth and the esophagus a small amount is absorbed. The entire mucous membrane lining the digestive canal is furnished with a rich supply of blood-vessels, by which the greater part of the di- gestive food is absorbed. rut DIGESTION OF FOODS. 39 "Liver Digestion. — The liver as well as the stomach is a digestive organ, and in a double sense. It not only secretes a digestive fluid, the bile, but it acts upon the food brought to it by the portal vein, and regulates the supply of digested food to the general system. It converts a large share of the grape- sugar and partially digested starch brought to it into a kind of liver starch, termed glycogen, which it stores up in its tissues. During the interval between the meals, the liver gradually re- digests the glycogen, reconverting it into sugar, and thus sup- plying it to the blood in small quantities, instead of allowing the entire amount formed in digestion to enter the circulation at once. If too large an amount of sugar entered the system at once, it would be unable to use it all, and would be compelled to get rid of a considerable portion through the kidneys. The liver also completes the digestion of albumen and other food elements." Time Required for Digestion. — The length of time re- quired for stomach digestion varies with different food sub- stances. The following table shows the time necessary for the stomach digestion of some of the more commonly used foods : — Rice I oo Sago I 45 Tapioca 2 oo Barley 2 00 Beans, pod, boiled 2 jo Bread, wheaten 3 30 Bread, com 3 IS Apples, sour and raw 2 00 Apples, sweet and raw 1 30 Parsnips, boiled 2 30 Beets, boiled 3 45 Turnips, flat, boiled 3 30 Potatoes, Irish, boiled 3 30 Potatoes, Irish, baked 2 30 Cabbage, raw 2 30 Cabbage, boiled 4 30 Milk, boiled 2 00 Milk, raw 2 15 Eggs, hard boiled 3 30 Eggs, soft boiled 3 00 Eggs, fried 3 3° ht^. mio. Eggs, whipped I 30 Salmon, salted, boiled 4 00 Oysters, raw 2 55 Oysters, stewed 3 30 Beef, lean, rare roasted 3 00 Beefsteak, broiled 3 00 Beef, lean, fried 4 00 Beef, salted, boiled 4 15 Pork, roasted 5 15 Pork, salted, fried 4 15 Mutton, roasted 3 15 Mutton, broiled 3 00 Veal, broiled 4 00 Veal, fried 4 30 Fowls, boiled 4 00 Duck, roasted 4 30 Butter, melted 3 30 Cheese 3 3° Soup, marrowbone 4 15 Soup, bean 3 00 Soup, mutton 3 3° Chicken, boiled 3 00 40 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. The time required for the digestion of food also depends upon the condition under which the food is eaten. Healthy stomach digestion requires at least five hours for its completion, and the stomach should have an hour for rest before another meal. If fresh food is taken before that which preceded it is digested, the portion of food remaining in the stomach is likely to undergo fermentation, thus rendering the whole mass of food unfit for the nutrition of the body, besides fostering various dis- turbances of digestion. It has been shown by recent observa- tions that the length of time required for food to pass through the entire digestive process to which it is subjected in the mouth, stomach, and small intestines, is from twelve to four- teen hours. Hygiene of Digestion, — With the stomach and other di- gestive organs in a state of perfect health, one is entirely un- conscious of their existence, save when a feeling of hunger calls attention to the fact that food is required, or satiety warns us that a sufficient amount or too much has been eaten. Perfect digestion can only be maintained by careful observance of the rules of health in regard to habits of eating. On the subject of Hygiene of Digestion we again quote a few paragraphs from Dr. Kellogg's work on Physiology, in which is given a concise summary of the more important points relating to this : — "The hygiene of digestion has to do with the quality and quantity of food eaten, and the manner of eating it. " Hasty Eating. — If the food is eaten too rapidly, it will not be properly divided, and when swallowed in coarse lumps, the digestive fluids cannot readily act upon it. On account of the insufficient mastication, the saliva will be deficient in quantity, and, as a consequence, the starch will not be well digested, and the stomach will not secrete a sufficient amount of gastric juice. It is not well to eat only soft or liquid food, as we are likely to swallow it without proper chewing. A considerable proportion of hard food, which requires thorough mastication, should be eaten at every meal. THB DIGESTION OF- FOODS. 41 " Drinking Freely at Meals is harmful, as it not only encour- ages hasty eating, but dilutes the gastric juice, and thus lessens its activity. The food should be chewed until well insalivated and reduced to a liquid state before swallowing. When large quantities of fluid are taken into the stomach, digestion does not begin until a considerable portion of the fluid has been absorbed. If cold foods or drinks are taken with the meal, such as ice-cream, ice-water, iced milk or tea, the stomach is chilled, and a long delay in the digestive process is occa- sioned. " The Indians of Brazil carefully abstain from drinking when eating, and the same custom prevails among many other savage tribes. " Eating between Meals. — The habit of eating apples, nuts, fruits, confectionary, etc., between meals is exceedingly harm- ful, and certain to produce loss of appetite and indigestion. The stomach as well as the muscles and other organs of the body requires rest. The frequency with which meals should be taken depends somewhat upon the age and occupation of an individual. Infants take their food at short intervals, and, ow- ing to its simple character, are able to digest it very quickly. Adults should not take food oftener than three times a day ; and persons whose employment is sedentary may, in many cases at least, adopt with advantage the plan of the ancient Greeks, who ate but twice a day. The latter custom is quite general among the higher classes in France and Spain, and in several South American countries. " Simplicity in Diet. — Taking too many kinds of food at a meal is a common fault which is often a cause of disease of the digestive organs. Those nations are the most hardy and enduring whose dietary is most simple. The Scotch peasantry live chiefly upon oatmeal, the Irish upon potatoes, milk, and oatmeal, the Italian upon peas, beans, macaroni, and chestnuts ; yet all these are noted for remarkable health and endurance. The natives of the Canary Islands, an exceedingly well-developed and vigorous race, subsist almost chiefly upon 42 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. a food which they call gofio, consisting of parched grain, coarsely- ground in a mortar and mixed with water. "Eating when Tired. — It is not well to eat when exhausted by violent exercise, as the system is not prepared to do the work of digestion well. Sleeping immediately after eating is also a harmful practice. The process of digestion cannot well be performed during sleep, and sleep is disturbed by the ineffec- tive efforts of the digestive organs. Hence the well-known evil effects of late suppers. '^Eating too Much. — Hasty eating is the greatest cause of over-eating. When one eats too rapidly, the food is crowded into the stomach so fast that nature has no time to cry, ' Enough,' by taking away the appetite before too much has been eaten. When an excess of food is taken, it is likely to ferment or sour before it can be digested. One who eats too much usually feels dull after eating. "How Much Food is Enough? — The proper quantity for each person to take is what he is able to digest and utilize. This amount varies with each individual, at different times. The amount needed will vary with the amount of work done, mental or muscular ; with the weather or the season of the year, more food being required in cold than in warm weather : with the age of an individual, very old and very young per- sons requiring less food than those of middle age. An unper- verted appetite, not artificially stimulated, is a safe guide. Drowsiness, dullness, and heaviness at the stomach are indica- tions of an excess of eating, and naturally suggest a lessening of the quantity of food, unless the symptoms are known to arise from some other cause. " Excess of Certain Food Elements. — When sugar is too freely used, either with food or in the form of sweetmeats or candies, indigestion, and even more serious disease, is likely to result. Fats, when freely used, give rise to indigestion and ' biliousness.' An excess of albumen from the too free use of meat is harmful. Only a limited amount of this element can be used ; an excess is treated as waste matter, and must be re- moved from the system by the liver and the kidneys. The THE DIGESTION OF FOODS. 43 majority of persons would enjoy better health by using meat more moderately than is customary in this country. ^^ Deficiency of Certain Food Elements. — A diet deficient in any important food element is even more detrimental to health than a diet in which certain elements are in excess. " The popular notion that beef-tea and meat extracts con- tain the nourishing elements of meat in a concentrated form, is a dangerous error. Undoubtedly many sick persons have been starved by being fed exclusively upon these articles, which are almost wholly composed of waste substances. Prof. Paule Bernard, of Paris, found that dogs fed upon meat extracts died sooner than those which received only water." Food Combinations. — Some persons, especially those of weak digestive powers, often experience inconvenience in the use of certain foods, owing to their improper combinations with other articles. Many foods which are digested easily when partaken of alone or in harmonious combinations, create much disturbance when eaten at the same meal with several different articles of food, or with some particular article with which they are especially incompatible. The following food combinations are among the best, the relative excellence of each being in- dicated by the order in which they are named : Milk and grains ; grains and eggs ; grains and vegetables ; grains and fruits; grains and nuts ; nuts and fruits ; grains, nuts, and fruits. Persons with sound stomachs and vigorous digestion will seldom experience inconvenience in making use of other and more varied combinations, but dyspeptics and persons troubled with slow digestion will find it to their advantage to select from the bill of fare such articles as best accord with each other, and to avoid such combinations as fruits and vegetables, milk and vegetables, milk and meats, sugar and milk, meat or vege- tables, fats with fruits, meats, or vegetables, or cooked with grains. TABLE TOPICS. Now good digestion waits on appetite, and health on both. — Shakespeare. We live not upon what we eat, but upon what we digest. — Abernelhy. If we consider the amount of ill temper, despondency, and general unhappiness which arises from want of proper digestion and assimilation of our food, it seems ob- viously well worth while to put forth every effort, and undergo any sacrifice, for the purpose of avoiding indigestion, with its resulting bodily ills ; and yet year after year, from the cradle to the grave, we go on violating the plainest and simplest laws of health at the temptation of cooks, caterers, and confectioners, whose share in short- ening the average term of human life is probably nearly equal to that of the combined armies and navies of the world. — Richardson. Almost every human malady is connected, either by highway or byway, with the stomach. ^ir Francis Head, It is a well-established fact that a leg of mutton caused a revolution in the affairs of Europe. Just before the battle of Leipsic, Napoleon the Great insisted on dining on boiled mutton, although his physicians warned him that it would disagree with him. The emperor's brain resented the liberty taken with its colleague, the stom- ach ; the monarch's equilibrium was overturned, the battle lost, and a new page opened in history. — Sel. Galloping consumption at the dinner table is one of the national disorders. — Sel. The kitchen (that is, your stomach) being out of order, the garret (the head) cannot be right, and every room in the house becomes affected. Remedy the evil in the kitchen, and all will be right in parlor and chamber. If you put improper food into the stomach, you play the mischief with it, and with the whole machine besides. — Abernethy. Cattle know when to go home from grazing, but a foolish man never knows his stomach's measures. — Scandinavian Proverb. Enough is as good as a feast. Simplicity of diet is the characteristic of the dwellers in the Orient. Ac- cording to Niebuhr, the sheik of the desert wants only a dish of pillau, or boiled rice, which he eats without fork or spoon. Notwithstanding their frugal fare, these sons of the desert are among the most hardy and enduring of all members of the human family. A traveler tells of seeing one of them run up to the top of the tallest pyra- mid and back in six minutes. One fourth of what we eat keeps us, and the other three fourths we keep at the peril of our lives. — Abernethy. [44] -T is not enough that good and proper food material be pro- vided ; it must have such preparation as will increase and not diminish its alimentary value. The unwholesome- ^^ ness of food is quite as often due to bad cookery as to improper selection of material. Proper cookery renders good food material more digestible. When scientifically done, cook- ing changes each of the food elements, with the exception of fats, in much the same manner as do the digestive juices, and at the same time it breaks up the food by dissolving the soluble portions, so that its elements are more readily acted upon by the digestive fluids. Cookery, however, often fails to attain the desired end ; and the best material is rendered useless and unwholesome by improper preparation. It is rare to find a table, some portion of the food upon which is not rendered unwholesome either by improper preparatory treatment, or by the addition of some deleterious substance. This is doubtless due to the fact that the preparation of food being such a commonplace matter, its important relations to [45] 46 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. health, mind, and body have been overlooked, and it has been regarded as a menial service which might be undertaken with little or no preparation, and without attention to matters other than those which relate to the pleasure of the eye and the pal- ate. With taste only as a criterion, it is so easy to disguise the results of careless and improper cookery of food by the use of flavors and condiments, as well as to palm off upon the digest- ive organs all sorts of inferior material, that poor cookery has come to be the rule rather than the exception. Another reason for this prevalence of bad cookery, is to be found in the fact that in so many homes the cooking is in- trusted to an ignorant class of persons having no knowledge whatever of the scientific principles involved in this most im- portant- and practical of arts. An ethical problem which we have been unable to solve is the fact that women who would never think of trusting the care of their fine china and bric-a- brac to unskilled hands, unhesitatingly intrust to persons who are almost wholly untrained, the preparation of their daily food. There is no department of life where superior intelligence is more needed than in the selection and preparation of food, upon which so largely depend the health and physical welfare of the family circle. The evils of bad cookery and ill-selected food are manifold, so many, in fact, that it has been calculated that they far exceed the mischief arising from the use of strong drink ; indeed, one of the evils of unwholesome food is its decided tendency to create a craving for intoxicants. Bad cookery causes indiges- tion, indigestion causes thirst, and thirst perpetuates drunken- ness. Any one who has suffered from a fit of indigestion, and can recollect the accompanying headache and the lowness of spirits, varying in degree from dejection or ill-humor to the most extreme melancholy, until the intellectual faculties seemed dazed, and the moral feelings blunted, will hardly wonder that when such a condition becomes chronic, as is often the case from the use of improperly prepared food, the victim is easily led to resort to stimulants to drown depression and enliven the spirits. COOKERY. 47 A thorough practical knowledge of simple, wholesome cook- ery ought to form a part of the education of every young woman, whatever her station in life. No position in life is more responsible than that of the person who arranges the bills of fare and selects the food for the household ; and what higher mission can one conceive than to intelligently prepare the wherewithal to make shoulders strong to bear life's bur- dens and heads clear to solve its intricate problems } what worthier work than to help in the building up of bodies into pure temples fit for guests of noble thoughts and high pur- poses } Surely, no one should undertake such important work without a knowledge of the principles involved. THE PRINCIPLES OF SCIENTIFIC COOKERY. Cookery is the art of preparing food for the table by dress- ing, or by the application of heat in some manner. Fuels. — Artificial heat is commonly produced by combus-^ tion, caused by the chemical action of the oxygen of the air upon the hydrogen and carbon found in fuel. The different fuels in common use for cooking purposes are hard wood, soft wood, charcoal, anthracite coal, bituminous coal, coke, lignite, kerosene oil, gasoline, and gas. As to their respective values, much depends upon the purpose for which they are to be used. Wood charcoal produces a greater amount of heat than an equal weight of any other fuel. Soft wood burns quicker and gives a more intense heat than hard wood, and hence is best for a quick fire. Hard wood burns slowly, produces a larger mass of coals, and is best where long-continued heat is desired. Anthracite coal kindles slowly, and burns with little flame or smoke, but its vapor is sulphurous, and on that account it should never be burned in an open stove, nor in one with an imperfect draft. Its heat is steady and intense. Bituminous coal ignites readily, burns with considerable flame and smoke, and gives a much less intense heat than anthracite. Lignite, or brown coal, is much less valuable as fuel. Coke is useful when a short, quick fire is needed. Kerosene and gas are convenient and economical fuels. 48 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Making Fires. — If coal is the fuel to be used, first clean out the stove by shaking- the grate and removing all ashes and cinders. Remove the st6ve covers, and brush the soot and ashes out of ail the flues and draft holes into the fire-box. Place a large handful of shavings or loosely twisted or crumpled papers upon the grate, over which lay some fine pieces of dry kindling-wood, arranged crosswise to permit a free draft, then a few sticks of hard wood, so placed as to allow plenty of air spaces. Be sure that the wood extends out to both ends of the fire-box. Replace the covers, and if the stove needs blacking, mix the polish, and apply it, rubbing with a dry brush until nearly dry, then light the fuel, as a little heat will facilitate the polishing. When the wood is burning briskly, place a shovel- ful or two of rather small pieces of coal upon the wood, and, as they ignite, gradually add more, until there is a clear, bright body of fire, remembering, however, never to fill the stove above the fire bricks ; then partly close the direct draft. When wood or soft coal is used, the fuel may be added at the same time with the kindling. Care of Fires. — Much fuel is wasted through the loss of heat from too much draft. Only just enough air should be sup- plied to promote combustion. A coal fire, when well kindled, needs only air enough to keep it burning. When the coal be- comes red all through, it has parted with the most of its heat, and the fire will soon die unless replenished. To keep a steady fire, add but a small amount of fuel at a time, and repeat often enough to prevent any sensible decrease of the degree of heat. Rake the fire from the bottom, and keep it clear of ashes and cinders. If a very hot fire is needed, open the drafts ; at other times, keep them closed, or partially so, and not waste fuel. There is no economy in allowing a fire to get low before fuel is added ; for the fresh fuel cools the fire to a temperature so low that it is not useful, and thus occasions a direct waste of all fuel necessary to again raise the heat to the proper degree, to say nothing of the waste of time and patience. The addition of small quantities of fuel at short intervals so long as continuous heat is needed, is far better than to let the fuel burn nearly out, COOKERY. 49 and then add a larger quantity. The improper management of the drafts and dampers has also much to do with waste of fuel. As stoves are generally constructed, it is necessary for the heat to pass over the top, down the back, and under the bottom of the oven before escaping into the flue, in order to properly heat the oven for baking. In order to force the heat to make this circuit, the direct draft of the stove needs to be closed. With this precaution observed, a quick fire from a small amount of fuel, used before its force is spent, will produce better results than a fire-box full under other circumstances. An item of economy for those who are large users of coal, is the careful sifting of the cinders from the ashes. They can be used to good advantage to put first upon the kindlings, when building the fire, as they ignite more readily than fresh coal, and give a greater, quicker heat, although much less enduring. Methods of Cooking. — A proper source of heat having been secured, the next step is to apply it to the food in some manner. The principal methods commonly employed are roasting, broiling, baking, boiling, stewing, simmering, steam ing, and frying. Roasting is cooking food in its own juices before an open fire. A clear fire with intense heat is necessary. Broiling-, or grilling, is cooking by radiant heat over glow- ing coals. This method is only adapted to thin pieces of food with a considerable amount of surface. Larger and more com- pact foods should be roasted or baked. Roasting and broiling are allied in principle. In both, the work is chiefly done by the radiation of heat directly upon the surface of the food, although some heat is communicated by the hot air surrounding the food. The intense heat applied to the food soon sears its outer surfaces, and thus prevents the escape of its juices. If care be taken frequently to turn the food so that its entire surface will be thus acted upon, the interior of the mass is cooked by its own juices. Baking is the cooking of food by dry heat in a closed oven. Only foods containing a considerable degree of moisture are adapted for cooking by this method. The hot, dry air which 4 so SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. fills the oven is always thirsting for moisture, and will take from every moist substance to which it has access a quantity of water proportionate to its degree of heat. Foods contain- ing but a small amount of moisture, unless protected in some manner from the action of the heated air, or in some way sup- plied with moisture during the cooking process, come from the oven dry, hard, and unpalatable. Proper cooking by this method depends greatly upon the facility with which the heat of the oven can be regulated. When oil or gas is the fuel used, it is an easy matter to secure and maintain almost any degree of heat desirable, but with a wood or coal stove, especial care and painstaking are necessary. It is of the first importance that the mechanism of the oven to be used, be thoroughly understood by the cook, and she should test its heating capacity under various conditions, with a light, quick fire and with a more steady one ; she should carefully note the kind and amount of fuel requisite to produce a certain de- gree of heat ; in short, she should thoroughly know her "machine" and its capabilities before at- tempting to use it for the cook- ing of food. An oven thermome- ter is of the utmost value for testing the heat, but unfortu- nately, such thermometers are not common. They are obtainable in England, although quite expensive. It is also possible at the present time to obtain ranges with a very reliable thermometer attachment to the oven door. A cook of good judgment by careful observation and com- parison of results, can soon learn to form quite a correct idea of the heat of her oven by the length of time she can hold her hand inside it without discomfort, but since much depends upon the construction of stoves and the kind of fuel used, and since An Oven Thermometer. COOKERY. SI the degree of heat bearable will vary with every hand that tries it, each person who depends upon this test must make her own standard. When the heat of the oven is found to be too great, it may be lessened by placing in it a dish of cold water. Boiling IS the cooking of food in a boiling liquid. Water is the usual medium employed for this purpose. When water is heated, as its temperature is increased, minute bubbles of air which have been dissolved by it are given off. As the tempera- ture rises, bubbles of steam will begin to form at the bottom of the vessel. At first these will be condensed as they rise into the cooler water above, causing a simmering sound ; but as the heat increases, the bubbles will rise higher and higher before collapsing, and in a short time will pass entirely through the water, escaping from its surface, causing more or less agitation, according to the rapidity with which they are formed. Water boils when the bubbles thus rise to the surface, and steam is thrown off. If the temperature is now tested, it will be found to be about 212° F. When water begins to boil, it is impos- sible to increase its temperature, as the steam carries off the heat as rapidly as it is communicated to the water. The only way in which the temperature can be raised, is by the confinement of the steam ; but owing to its enormous expansive force, this is not practicable with ordinary cooking utensils. The mechan- ical action of the water is increased by rapid bubbling, but not the heat ; and to boil anything violently does not expedite the cooking process, save that by the mechanical action of the water the food is broken into smaller pieces, which are for this reason more readily softened. But violent boiling occasions an enormous waste of fuel, and by driving away in the steam the volatile and savory elements of the food, renders it much less palatable, if not altogether tasteless. The solvent properties of water are so increased by heat that it permeates the food, rendering its hard and tough constituents soft and easy of digestion. The liquids mostly employed in the cooking of foods are water and milk. Water is best suited for the cooking of most foods, but for such farinaceous foods as rice, macaroni, and 52 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. farina, milk, or at least part milk, is often preferred. Nut milk may serve the same purpose. In using milk, or nut milk, it should be remembered that being more dense than water, when heated, less steam escapes, and consequently it boils sooner than does water. Then, too, milk being more dense, when it is used alone for cooking, a little larger quantity of fluid will be required than when water is used. The boiling point for water at the sea level is 212°. At all points above the sea level, water boils at a temperature be- low 212", the exact temperature depending upon the altitude. At the top of Mt. Blanc, an altitude of 15,000 feet, water boils at 185". The boiling point is lowered one degree for every 600 feet increase in altitude. The boiling point may be increased by adding soluble substances to the water. A saturated solution of common baking soda boils at 220°. A saturated solution of chloride of sodium boils at 227". A simi- lar solution of sal ammoniac boils at 238°. Of course such solutions cannot be used advantageously, except as a means of cooking articles placed in hermetically sealed vessels and immersed in the liquid. Different effects upon food are produced by the use of hard and soft water. Peas and beans boiled in hard water containing lime or gypsum, will not become tender, because these chem- ical substances harden vegetable casein, of which element peas and beans are largely composed. For extracting the juices of meat and the soluble parts of other foods, soft water is best, as it more readily penetrates the tissue ; but when it is desired to preserve the articles whole, and retain their juices and flavors, hard water is preferable. Foods should be put to cook in cold or boiling water, in ac- cordance with the object to be attained in their cooking. Foods from which it is desirable to extract the nutrient prop- erties, as for broths, extracts, etc., should be put to cook in cold water. Foods to be kept intact as nearly as may be, should be put to cook in boiling water. Hot and cold water act differently upon the different food elements. Starch is but slightly acted upon by cold water. COOKERY. 53 When starch is added to several times its bulk of hot water, all the starch granules burst on approaching the boiling point, and swell to such a degree as to occupy nearly the whole volume of the water, forming a pasty mass. Sugar is dissolved readily in either hot or cold water. Cold water extracts albumen. Hot water coagulates it. Steaming, as its name implies, is the cooking of food by the use of steam. There are several ways of steaming, the most common of which is by placing the food in a perforated dish over a vessel of boiling water. For foods not needing the solvent powers of water, or which already contain a large amount of moisture, this method is preferable to boiling. Another form of cooking, which is usually termed steaming, is that of placing the food, with or without water, as needed, in a closed vessel which is placed inside another vessel containing boiling water. Such an apparatus is termed a double boiler. Food cooked in its own juices in a covered dish in a hot oven, is sometimes spoken of as being steamed or smothered. Stewing is the prolonged cooking of food in a small quantity of liquid, the temperature of which is just below the boiling point. Stewing should not be confounded with simmering, which is slow," steady boiling. The proper temperature for stewing is most easily secured by the use of the double boiler. The water in the outer vessel boils, while that in the inner vessel does not, being kept a little below the temperature of the water from which its heat is obtained, by the constant evaporation at a temperature a little below the boiling point. Frying, which is the cooking of food in hot fat, is a method not to be recommended. Unlike all the other food elements, fat is rendered less digestible by cooking. Doubtless it is for this reason that nature has provided those foods which require the most prolonged cooking to fit them for use with only a small proportion of fat, and it would seem to indicate that any food to be subjected to a high degree of heat should not be mixed and compounded largely of fats. The ordinary way of frying, which the French call saiiteing, is by the use of only a little fat in a shallow pan, into which the food is put and cooked first 54 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. on one side and then the other. Scarcely anything could be more unwholesome than food prepared in this manner. A morsel of food encrusted with fat remains undigested in the stomach because fat is not acted upon by the gastric juice, and its combination with the other food elements of which the morsel is composed interferes with their digestion also. If such foods are habitually used, digestion soon becomes slow and the gastric juice so deficient in quantity that fermentation and putre- factive changes are occasioned, resulting in serious disturbance of health. In the process of frying, the action of the heat par- tially decomposes the fat ; in consequence, various poisonous substances are formed, highly detrimental to the digestion of the partaker of the food. Adding Foods to Boiling Liquids. — Much of the sod- denness of improperly cooked foods might be avoided, if the following facts were kept in mind : — When vegetables, or other foods of ordinary tempera- ture, are put into boiling water, the temperature of the water is lowered in proportion to the quantity and the tempera- ture of the food thus introduced, and will not again boil until the mass of food shall have absorbed more heat from the fire. The result of this is that the food is apt to become more or less water-soaked before the process of cooking begins. This diffi- culty may be avoided by introducing but small quantities of the food at one time, so as not to greatly lower the temperature of the liquid, and then allowing the latter to boil between the introduction of each fresh supply, or by heating the food before adding it to the liquid. Evaporation is another principle often overlooked in the cooking of food, and many a sauce or gravy is spoiled because the liquid, heated in a shallow pan, from which evaporation is rapid, loses so much in bulk that the amount of thickening requisite for the given quantity of fluid, and which, had less evaporation occurred, would have made it of the proper consis- tency, makes the sauce thick and unpalatable. Evaporation is much less, in slow boiling, than in more rapid cooking. Measuring. — One of the most important principles to be observed in the preparation of food for cooking, is accuracy in COOKERY. 55 measuring. Many an excellent recipe proves a failure simply from lack of care in this respect. Measures are generally more convenient than weights, and are more commonly used. The common kitchen cup, which holds a half pint, is the one usually taken as the standard ; if any other size is used, the ingredients for the entire recipe should be measured by the same. The following points should be observed in measuring: — 1. The teaspoons and tablespoons to be used in measuring, are the silver spoons in general use. 2. Any material like flour, sugar, salt, that has been packed, should either be sifted or stirred up lightly before measuring. 3. A cupful of dry material is measured level with the top of the cup, without being packed down. 4. A cupful of liquid is all the cup will contain without running over. Hold the cup in a saucer while measuring, to prevent spilling the liquid upon the floor or table. Comparative Table of Weights and Measures.— The following comparative table of weights and measurements will aid in estimating different materials : — One heaping tablespoonful of sugar weighs one ounce. Two round tablespoonfuls of flour weigh one ounce. Two cupfuis of granulated sugar weigh one pound. Two cupfuis of meal weigh one pound. Four cupfuis of sifted flour weigh one pound. One pint of oatmeal, cracked wheat, or other coarse grains, weighs about one pound. One pint of liquid weighs one pound. One pint of meat chopped and packed solid weighs one pound. Seven heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar^ one cupful. Five heaping tablespoonfuls of flour= one cupful. Two cupfuis of liquid or dry material=one pint. Four cupfuis of liquid or dry material= one quart. Mixing Materials. — In the compounding of recipes, vari- ous modes are employed for mingling together the different ingredients, chief of which are stirring, beating, and kneading. By stirring is meant a continuous motion round and round with a spoon, without lifting it from the mixture, except to 5'6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. scrape occasionally from the sides of the dish any portion of the material that may cling to it. It is not necessary that the stirring should be all in one direction, as many cooks suppose. The object of the stirring is to thoroughly blend the ingredi- ents, and this may be accomplished as well by stirring in one direction as in another. Beating is for the purpose of incorporating as much air in the mixture as possible. It should be done by dipping the spoon in and out, cutting clear through and lifting from the bottom with each stroke. The process must, be continuous, and must never be interspersed with any stirring if it is desired to retain the air within the mixture. Kneading is the mode by which materials already in the form of dough are more thoroughly blended together ; it also serves to incorporate air. The process is more fully described in the chapter on " Bread." Temperature. — Many a cook fails and knows not why, be- cause she does not understand the influence of temperature upon materials and food. Flour and liquids for unfermented breads cannet be too cold, while for bread prepared with yeast, success is largely dependent upon a warm and equable tem- perature throughout the entire process. Cooking Utensils. — The earliest cookery was probably ac- complished without the aid of any utensils, the food being roasted by burying it in hot ashes or cooked by the aid of heated stones ; but modern cookery necessitates the use of a greater or less variety of cooking utensils to facilitate the prep- aration of food, most of which are so familiar to the reader as to need no description. (A list of those needed for use will be found on page 66.) Most of these utensils are manufactured from some kind of metal, as iron, tin, copper, brass, etc. All metals are dissolvable in certain substances, and some of those em- ployed for making household utensils are capable of forming most poisonous compounds when used for cooking certain foods. This fact should lead to great care on the part of the housewife, both in purchasing and in using utensils for cooking purposes. COOKERY. 57 Iron utensils, although they are, when new, apt to dis- color and impart a disagreeable flavor to food cooked in them, are not objectionable from a health standpoint, if kept clean and free from rust. Iron rust is the result of the combination of the iron with oxygen, for which it has so great an affinity that it will decompose water to get oxygen to unite with ; hence it is that iron utensils rust so quickly when not carefully dried after using, or if left where they can collect moisture. This is the reason why a coating of tallow, which serves to exclude the air and moisture, will preserve ironware not in daily use from rusting. "Porcelain ware" is iron lined with a hard, smooth enamel, and makes safe and very desirable cooking utensils. German porcelain ware is unexcelled for culinary purposes. " Granite ware " is a material quite recently come into use, the composition of which is a secret, although pronounced by eminent chemists to be free from all injurious qualities. Uten- sils made from it are light in weight, easily kept clean, and for most cooking purposes, are far superior to those made from any other material. What is termed "galvanized iron" is unsuitable for cook- ing utensils, it being simply sheet iron coated with zinc, an exceedingly unsafe metal to be used for cooking purposes. Tin, which is simply thin sheet iron coated with tin by dip- ping several times into vats of the melted metal, is largely employed in the manufacture of cooking utensils. Tinware is acted upon by acids, and when used for holding or cooking any acid foods, like sour milk, sour fruits, tomatoes, etc., harm- ful substances are liable to be formed, varying in quantity and harmfulness with the nature of the acid contained in the food. In these days of fraud and adulteration, nearly all the cheaper grades of tinware contain a greater or less amount of lead in their composition, which owing to its greater abun- dance and less price, is used as an adulterant of tin. Lead is also used in the solder with which the parts of tinware are united. The action of acids upon lead form very poison- 58 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. ous compounds, and all lead-adulterated utensils should be wholly discarded for cooking purposes. Test for Lead-Adulterated Tui. — Place upon the metal a small drop of nitric acid, spreading it to the size of a dime, dry with gentle heat, apply a drop of water, then add a small crystal of iodide of potash. If lead is present, a yellowish color will be seen very soon after the addition of the iodide. Lead glazing, which is frequently employed on crockery and ironware in the manufacture of cooking utensils, may also be detected in the same manner. Cooking utensils made of copper are not to be recommended from the point of healthfulness, although many cooks esteem them because copper is a better conductor of heat than iron or tin. The acids of many fruits combine with copper to form extremely poisonous substances. Fatty substances, as well as salt and sugar, act upon copper to a greater or less degree, also vegetables containing sulphur in their composition, and pro- duce harmful compounds. Utensils made of brass, which is a compound of copper and zinc, are not safe to use for cooking purposes. *l-«^ 'isS^ TABLE TOPICS. Bad cooking diminishes happiness and shortens life. — Wisdom of Ages. Says Mrs. Partington : " Many a fair home has been desiccated by poor coolcing, and a man's table has been the rock on which his happiness has split." Significant Fact. — Lady — "Have you had much experience as a cook?" Applicant — "Oh, indeed I have. I was the cook of Mr. and Mrs. Peterby for three years." L. — "Why did you leave them ? " A. — "I didn't leave them. They left me. They both died." Z.— "Whatof ?" A. — " Dyspepsia." Cooking is generally bad because people fall into routine ; habit dulls their appre- ciation, and they do not think about what they are eating. — Didsbury. Lilly (^lecTel&ry oi the cooking class) — "Now, girls, we've learned nine cakes, two kinds of angel food, and seven pies. What next ? " Susie (engaged) — " Dick's father says I must learn to bake bread." Indignant chorus — " Bread ? How absurd ! What are bakers for ? " It is told of Philip Hecgnet, a French physician who lived in the 17th century, that when calling upon his wealthy patients, he used often to go to the kitchen and pantry, embrace the cooks and butlers, and exhort them to do their duty well. " I owe you so much gratitude, my dear friends," he would say ; " you are so useful to us doctors ; for if you did not keep on poisoning the people, we should all have to go to the poorhouse." There are innumerable books of recipes for cooking, but unless the cook is master of the principles of his art, and unless he knows the why and the wherefore of its processes, he cannot choose a recipe intelligently and execute it successfully. — Richard Estcourt, They who provide the food for the world, decide the health of the world. You have only to go on some errand amid the taverns and the hotels of the United States and Great Britain, to appreciate the fact that a vast multitude of the human race are slaughtered by incompetent cookery. Though a young woman may have taken lessons in music, and may have taken lessons in painting, and lessons in astronomy, she is not well educated unless she has taken lessons in dough ! — Talmage. [59] 'T is a mistake to suppose that any room, however small and unpleasantly situated, is " good enough " for a kitchen. This is the room where housekeepers pass a great portion ^P of their time, and it should be one of the brightest and most convenient rooms in the house ; for upon the results of no other department of woman's domain depend so greatly the health and comfort of the family as upon those involved in this " household workshop." The character of a person's work is more or less dependent upon his surroundings, hence is it to be greatly wondered at that a woman immured in a small, close, dimly-lighted room, whose only outlook may be the back alley or the woodshed, supplies her household with products far below the standard of health and housewifely skill ? Every kitchen should have windows on two sides of the room, and the sun should have free entrance through them ; the windows should open from the top to allow a complete change of air, for light and fresh air are among the chief essen- tials to success in all departments of the household. Good [60] THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 6l drainage should also be provided, and the ventilation of the kitchen ought to be even more carefully attended to than that of a sleeping room. The ventilation of the kitchen should be so ample as to thoroughly remove all gases and odors, which, to- gether with steam from boiling and other cooking processes, generally invade and render to some degree unhealthful every other portion of the house. It is the steam from the kitchen which gives a fusty odor to the parlor air and provides a wet- sheet pack for the occupant of the " spare bed." The only way of wholly eradicating this evil, is the adoption of the suggestion of the sanitary philosopher who places the kitchen at the top of the house. In planning a kitchen the aim should be to so arrange every detail that the room can be easily kept clean ; shall be comfort- able and healthful to live in during both cold and hot weather, and so equipped that no unnecessary steps will need to be taken in carrying on the various operations for which it is a workshop. A door opening onto a porch is a desirable arrangement, thereby making it possible for many kinds of work to be done in the open air. The handy waiter described on page 72 is an especial con- venience for this purpose. There should be ample space for tables, chairs, range, sink, and cupboards, yet the room should not be so large as to neces- sitate too many steps. A very good size for the ordinary dwelling is i6 x i8 feet. Undoubtedly much of the distaste for, and neglect of, " house- work," so often deplored in these days, arises from unpleasant surroundings. If the kitchen be light, airy, and tidy, and the utensils bright and clean, the work of compounding those articles of food which grace the table and satisfy the appetite will be a pleasant task, and one entirely worthy of the most intelligent and cultivated woman. It is desirable, from a sanitary standpoint, that the kitchen floor be made impervious to moisture ; hence, concrete or tile floors are better than wooden floors. If wooden floors are used, they should be constructed of narrow boards of hard wood, carefully joined and thoroughly saturated with hot linseed oil, well rubbed in to give polish to the surface. 63 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Cleanliness is the great desideratum, and this can be best at- tained by having all woodwork in and about the kitchen coated with varnish ; substances which cause stain and grease spots, do not penetrate the wood when varnished, and can be easily removed with a damp cloth. Paint is preferable to whitewash or calcimine for the walls, since it is less affected by steam, and can be more readily cleaned. A carpet on a kitchen floor is as out of place as a kitchen sink would be in a parlor. The elements of beauty should not be lacking in the kitchen. Pictures and fancy articles are inappropriate ; but a few pots of easily-cultivated flowers on the window ledge or arranged upon brackets about the window in winter, and a window box arranged as d^ jardiniere, with vines and blooming plants in sum- mer, will greatly brighten the room, and thus serve to lighten the task of those whose daily labor confines them to the pre- cincts of the kitchen. The Kitchen Furniture.— The furniture for a kitchen should not be cumbersome, and should be so made and dressed as to be easily cleaned. There should be plenty of cupboards, and each for the sake of order, should be devoted to a special purpose. Cupboards with sliding doors are much superior to closets. They should be placed upon casters so as to be easily moved, as they are thus not only more convenient, but admit of more thorough cleanliness. Cupboards used for the storage of food should be well ven- tilated ; otherwise, they furnish choice conditions for the de- velopment of mold and germs. Movable cupboards may be ventilated by means of openings in the top, and doors covered with very fine wire gauze which will admit the air but keep out flies and dust. All stationary cupboards and closets should have a ventilating flue connected with the main shaft by which the house is ventilated, or directly communicating with the outer air. No kitchen can be regarded as well furnished without a good timepiece as an aid to punctuality and economy of time. An eight-day clock with large dial and plain case is the most suitable. THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 63 Every kitchen should also be provided with a slate, with sponge and pencil attached, on one side of which the market orders and other memoranda may be jotted down, and on the other the bills of fare for the day or week. In households where servants are kept, the slate will save many a vexatious blunder and unnecessary call to the kitchen, while if one is herself mis- tress, cook, and housekeeper, it may prove an invaluable aid and time-saver if thus used. Lack of sufficient table room is often a great source of inconvenience to the housekeeper. To avoid this, arrange A Convenient Kilchea Table. swinging tables or shelves at convenient points upon the wall, which may be put up or let down as occasion demands. For ordinary kitchen uses, small tables of suitable height on easy- rolling casters, and with zinc tops, are the most convenient and most easily kept clean. It is quite as well that they be made without drawers, which are too apt to become receptacles for a heterogeneous mass of rubbish. If desirable to have some handy place for keeping articles which are frequently required for use, an arrangement similar to that represented in the ac- companying cut may be made at very small expense. It may 64 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. be also an advantage to arrange small shelves about and above the range, on which may be kept various articles necessary for cooking purposes. One of the most indispensable articles of furnishing for a well-appointed kitchen is a sink ; however, a sink must be properly constructed and well cared for, or it is likely to be- come a source of great danger to the health of the inmates of the household. Earthen-ware is the best materiar for kitchen sinks. Iron is very serviceable, but corrodes, and if painted or enameled, this soon wears off. Wood is objectionable from a sanitary standpoint. A sink made of wood lined with copper answers well for a long time if properly cared for. The sink should if possible stand out from the wall, so as to allow free access to all sides of it for the sake of cleanliness, and under no circumstances should there be any inclosure of woodwork or cupboards underneath to serve as a storage place for pots and kettles and all kinds of rubbish, dust, and germs. It should be supported on legs, and the space below should be open for inspection at all times. The pipes and fixtures should be selected and placed by a competent plumber. Great pains should be taken to keep the pipes clean and well disinfected. Refuse of all kinds should be kept olit. Thoughtless housekeepers and careless domestics often allow greasy water and bits of table waste to find their way into the pipes. Drain pipes usually have a bend, or trap, through which water containing no sediment flows freely ; but the melted grease which often passes into the pipes mixed with hot water, becomes cooled and solid as it descends, adhering to the pipes, and gradually accumulating until the drain is blocked, or the water passes through very slowly. A grease-lined pipe is a hotbed for disease germs. Water containing much grease should be cooled and the grease removed before being turned into the kitchen sink, while bits of refuse should be disposed of elsewhere, since pre- vention of mischief is in this case, as in most others, far easier than cure. It is customary for housekeepers to pour a hot solution of soda or potash down the sink pipes occasionally, to THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 65 dissolve any grease which may tend to obstruct the passage ; but this is only a partial safeguard, as there is no certainty that all the grease will be dissolved, and any particles adhering to the pipes very soon undergo putrefaction. A frequent flushing with hot water is important ; besides which the pipes should be disinfected two or three times a week by pouring down a gallon of water holding in solution a pound of good chloride of lime. Stoves and Ranges. — The furnishing of a modern kitchen would be quite incomplete without some form of stove or range The multiplicity of these articles, manufactured each with some especial merit of its own, renders it a somewhat diffi- cult task to make a choice among them. Much must, how- ever, depend upon the kind of fuel to be used, the size of the household, and various other circumstances which make it necessary for each individual housekeeper to decide for herself what is best adapted to her wants. It may be said, in brief, that economy of fuel, simplicity of construction, and efficiency in use are the chief points to be considered in the selection of stoves and ranges. A stove or range of plain finish is to be preferred, because it is much easier to keep clean, and will be likely to present a better appearance after a few months' wear than one of more elaborate pattern. But whatever stove or range is selected, its mechanism should be thoroughly understood in every particu- lar, and it should be tested with dampers open, with dampers closed, and in every possible way, until one is perfectly sure she understands its action under all conditions. Oil and Gas Stoves. — In many households, oil, gas, and gasoline stoves have largely taken the place of the kitchen range, especially during the hot weather of summer. They can be used for nearly every purpose for which a wood or a coal range is used ; they require much less labor and litter, and can be instantly started into full force and as quickly turned out when no longer required, while the fact that the heat can be regulated with exactness, makes them superior for certain proc- esses of cooking to any other stove. But while these stoves S 66 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. are convenient ancj economical, especially in small families, they should be used with much care. Aside from the danger fro;ii explosion, which is by no means inconsiderable in the use of gasoline and oil stoves, they are not, unless well cared, for alto- gether healthful. Unless the precaution is taken to use them in well-ventilated rooms or to connect them with a chimney, they vitiate the atmosphere to a considerable extent with the products of combustion. Oil stoves, unless the wicks are kept well trimmed, are apt to smoke, and this smoke is not only dis- agreeable, but extremely irritating to the mucous membrane of the nose and throat. Oil stoves are constructed on the same principle as ordinary oil lamps, and require the same care and attention. Quite recently there has been invented by Prof Edward Atkinson a very unique apparatus for cooking by means of the heat of an ordinary kerosene lamp, called the " Aladdin Cooker.' The food to be cooked is placed in a chamber around which hot water, heated by the flame of the lamp, circulates. The uni- form heat thus obtained performs the process of cooking, slowly, but most satisfactorily and economically, the result being far superior to that obtained by the ordinary method of cooking by quick heat. The cooker is only used for stewing and steaming ; but Mr. Atkinson has also invented an oven in which the heat is conveyed to the place where it is needed by a column of hot air instead of hot water. With this oven, which consistsof an outer oven made of non-conducting material, and an inner oven made of sheet iron, with an intervening space between, through which the hot air circulates, no smoke or odor from the lamp can reach the interior. Kitchen Utensils. — The list of necessary kitchen utensils must of course be governed somewhat by individual circum- stances, but it should not be curtailed for the sake of display in some other department, where less depends upon the results. A good kitchen outfit is one of the foundation-stones of good housekeeping. The following are some of the most essential : — Two dish pans ; two or more papier mache tubs for washing glassware ; one kneading board ; one bread board ; one pair THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 6/ scales, with weights ; scrubbing and stove brushes ; brooms ; dustpans ; roller for towel ; washbowl ; soap dish ; vegetable brushes. For the Tin Closet. — One dipper ; one egg-beater ; one two-quart pail ; one four-quart pail ; six brick-loaf bread pans ; three shallow tins ; three granite-ware pie tins ; two perfo- rated sheet iron pans for rolls, etc. ; one set of measures, pint, quart, and two-quart ; two colanders ; two fine wire strainers ; one flour sifter ; one apple corer ; one set patty-pans ; two dripping-pans ; two sets gem irons ; one set muffin-rings ; one toaster ; one broiler ; six saucepans, different sizes ; two steamers ; six milk- pans ; one dozen basins, different sizes ; one chopping bowl and knife ; six double ADoiibieToii^. boilers ; two funnels, large and small ; one can-opener ; griddle ; kettles, iron and granite ware ; two water baths. For the Dish Closet. — One half dozen iron-stone china cups ; three quart bowls ; three pint bowls ; two large mixing bowls ; two two-quart bowls with lip ; six deep plates ; three kitchen pitchers ; one glass rolling-pin ; six wooden and six iron spoons, assorted sizes ; six kitchen teaspoons ; one stone bak- ing pot ; glass jars for stores ; crocks and jars. The Pantry. — The pantry and china closet should have direct light and good ventilation. The dark, dingy places some- times used for this purpose are germ-breeders. There should be plenty of shelf room and cupboards for the finer glass and china-ware, with a well-arranged sink for washing the dishes. The sink for this purpose is preferably one lined with tinned or planished copper ; for dishes will be less liable to become injured and broken than when washed in an iron or earthen-ware sink. Extension or folding shelves are a great convenience, and can be arranged for the sink if desired. The accompanying cuts illustrate a sink of four compartments for dish-washing, devised by the writer for use in the Sanitariurft Domestic Economy kitchen, which can be closed and used as a table. Two zipc 68 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. trays fit the top, upon which to place the dish drainers. If pre- ferred, the top might be arranged as a drainer, by making it of well-seasoned hard wood, with a number of inclined grooves to allow the water to run into the sink. If the house be heated by steam, a plate-warmer is an important part of the pantry furnishing. The Storeroom. — If possible to do so, locate the room for the keeping of the kitchen supplies on the cool side of the house. Plenty of light, good ventilation, and absolute cleanli- Compartment Sink for Dish-Washing. nes3 are essential, as the slightest contamination of air is likely to render the food supply unfit for use. The refrigerator should not be connected with the kitchen drain pipe, and the greatest care should be taken to keep it clean and sweet. It should be thoroughly scrubbed with borax or sal soda and water, and well aired, at least once a week. Strongly flavored foods and milk should not be kept in the same refrigerator. The ice to be used should always be care- fully washed before putting in the refrigerator. Care should also be taken to replenish it before the previous supply is entirely melted, as the temperature rises when the ice becomes low, and double the quantity will be required to cool the refrigera- THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP 69 tor that would be ftecessary to keep it of uniform temperature if added before the ice was entirely out. The Water Supply. — The water used for drinking and cooking purposes should receive equal consideration with the food supply, and from whatever source obtained, it should be frequently tested for impurities, since that which looks the most refreshing may be contaminated with organic poison of the most treacherous character. A good and simple test solution, which any housewife can use, may be prepared by dissolving twelve grains of caustic Compartment Sink for Dish-Washing. Closed. potash and three of permanganate of potash in an ounce of distilled water, or filtered soft water. Add a drop of this solu- tion to a glass of the water to be tested. If the pink color imparted by the solution disappears at once, add another drop of the solution, and continue adding drop by drop until the pink color will remain for half an hour or more. The amount of the solution necessary to secure a permanent color is a very fair index to the quality of the water. If the color imparted by the first one or two drops disappears within a half hour, the water should be rejected as probably dangerous. Water which is suspected of being impure may be rendered safe by boiling. Filters are only of service in removing suspended 70 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. particles and the unpleasant taste of rain water ; a really dan- gerous water is not rendered safe by filtering in the ordinary manner. Cellars. — Sanitarians tell us that cellars should never be built under dwelling houses. Because of improper construction and neglect, they are undoubtedly the cause of much disease and many deaths. A basement beneath the house is advanta- geous, but the greatest of care should be given to construct it in accord with sanitary laws. It should be thoroughly drained that there may be no source of dampness, but should not be connected with a sewer or a cesspool. It should have walls so made as to be impervious to air and water. An ordinary brick or stone wall is inefficient unless well covered with good Port- land cement polished smooth. The floors should likewise be covered with cement, otherwise the cellar is likely to be filled with impure air derived from the soil, commonly spoken of as " ground air,", and which offers a constant menace to the health of those who live over cellars with uncemented walls and floors. Light and ventilation are quite as essential to the health- fulness of a cellar as to other rooms of the dwelling. Constantly during warm weather, and at least once a day during the winter season, windows should be opened wide, thus effecting a free interchange of air. All mold and mustiness should be kept out by thorough ventilation and frequent coats of white- wash to the walls. Vegetables and other decomposable articles, if stored in the basement, should be frequently sorted, and all decaying substances promptly removed. This is of the utmost importance, since the germs and foul gases arising from de- composing food stuffs form a deadly source of contamination to the air of the living rooms above, to which it ascends through every crack and crevice. KITCHEN CONVENIENCES. In these days of invention and progress, much thought and ingenuity have been expended in making and perfecting labor- saving articles and utensils, which serve to make housework less of a burden and more of a delight. THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. 71 The Steam-Cooker. The Steam=Cooker. — One of the most unique of these con- veniences is the steam-cooker, one kind of which is illustrated by the accompanying cut. Steam- ing is, for many foods, a most eco- nomical and satisfactory method of cooking. Especially is this true respecting fruits, grains, and vege- tables, the latter of which often have the larger proportion of their best nutritive elements dissolved f^ "^•i , and thrown away in the water in ^ 1 1 h "tn*ac *•»■ yr^ii which they are boiled. In the ma- jority of households it is, however, the method least depended upon, because the ordinary steamer over a pot of boiling water requires too much attention, takes up too much stove room, and creates too much steam in the kitchen, to prove a general favorite. The steam-cooker has an escape- steam tube through which all excess of steam and odors passes into the fire, and thus its different compartments may contain and cook an entire dinner, if need be, and over one stove-hole or one burner of an oil or a gasoline stove. The Vegetable Press. — The accom- panying cut repre- sents this handy utensil, which is equally useful as a potato and vegeta- ble masher ; a s a sauce, gruel, and gravy strainer ; as a fruit press, and for many other purposes for which a colander or strainer is needed, while it economizes both time and labor. Vegetable Press. 72 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Lemon Drill. Lemon Drill. — This little article for extracting the juice of the lemon, and which can be purchased of most hardware dealers, is quite superior to the more commonly used lemon- squeezer. Being made of glass, its use is not open to the danger that the use of metal-squeezers are from poisonous combinations of the acid and metal, while the juice extracted is free from pulp, seeds, and the oil of the skin. A Handy Waiter. — In many households where no help is employed, a labor-saving device, like the one represented in the accompanying illustration, will be found of great service. It is a light double table on easy- rolling casters, and can be readily constructed by any one handy in the use of tools. If preferred, the top may be covered with zinc. In setting or clearing the table, the dishes may be placed on the lower shelf, with the food on the top, and the table rolled from pantry to dining-room, and from dining-room to kitchen ; thus accomplishing, with one trip, what is ordina- rily done with hundreds of steps by the weary housewife. If desirable to reset the table at once after a meal, the waiter will be found most serviceable as a place whereon the glassware and silverware may be washed. It is equally serviceable for holding the utensils and mate- rial needed when cooking ; being so easily moved, it can be rolled to the stove and is always con- venient. Wall Cabinet. — Where cupboard space is limited, or where for convenience it is desirable to have some provision for sup- plies and utensils near the range and baking table, a wall cabi- net offers a most convenient arrangement. It may be made of a size to fit into any convenient niche, and constructed The Handy Waiter. THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. ;3 plainly or made as ornamental as one pleases, with doors to ex- clude the dust, shelves on which to keep tin cans filled with rice, oatmeal, cracked wheat, and other grains ; glass jars of raisins, sugar, citron, cornstarch, etc ; hooks on which may hang the measures, egg-beater, potato masher, and such frequently needed utensils ; and with drawers for paring knives, spoons, and similar articles, the wall cabinet becomes a multuni in parvo of conveni- ence which would greatly facilitate work in many households. Percolater Holder. — The accompanying cut illustrates an easily-constructed device for holding a jelly bag or percolater. It may be so made as to be easily screwed to any ordinary 74 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. table, and will save the housekeeper far more than its cost in time and patience. Kneading Table. — Much of the tiresome labor of bread- making can be avoided if one is supplied with some convenient table similar to the one represented in the cut, wherein the needed material and uten- sils may be kept in readiness at all times. The table illustrated has two large tin drawers, each divided into two compart- ments, in which may be kept corn meal, entire wheat, and Graham and white flours. Two drawers above provide a place for rolling-pin, bread mallet, gem irons, spoons, etc., while a narrow compartment just be- neath the hardwood top affords a place for the kneading board. The table being on casters is easily moved to any part of the kitchen for use. Disli=Towel Rack. — Nothing adds more to the ease and facility with which the frequent dish-washings of the household may be accomplished than clean, well-dried towels. For quick Percolator Holder. Kueading Table. THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP. ;5 drying, — an item of great importance if one would keep the towels fresh and sweet, — the towel rack represented in the cut, and which can be made by any carpenter, is a most handy device. When not in use, it can be turned up against the wall Dish-Towel Rack. as illustrated. It is light, affords sufficient drying space so that no towel need be hung on top of another, and projecting out from the wall as it does, the free circulation of air between the towels soon dries them. Kitchen Brushes. — These useful little articles can be put to such a variety of uses that they are among the chiefest of 76 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. household conveniences. They are also so inexpensive, cost- ing but five cents apiece without handles and seven cents with handles, that no housewife can afford to be without a supply of them. For the washing of dishes with handles, the outside of iron kettles, and other cooking utensils made of iron, they are especially serviceable. The smaller sizes are likewise ex- cellent for cleaning cutglass ware, Majolica ware, — in fact, any kind of ware with raised figures or corrugated surfaces. For cleaning a grater, nothing is superior to one of these little brushes. Such a brush is also most serviceable for washing celery, as the corrugated surface of the stalk makes a thorough cleaning with the hands a difficult operation. Then if one uses a brush with handle, ice water, which adds to the crispness of the celery, may be used for the cleaning, as there will be no necessity for putting the hands in Vegetable Brush. Water. A Small whisk broom is also val- uable for the same purpose. Such vege- tables as potatoes, turnips, etc., are best cleaned with a brush. It makes the work less disagreeable, as the hands need not be soiled by the process, and in no other way can the cleaning be so well and thoroughly done. All brushes after being used should be carefully scalded and placed brush downward in a wire sponge basket, or hung up on hooks. If left around carelessly, they soon acquire the musty smell of a neglected dishcloth. TABLE TOPICS. The kitchen is a chemical laboratory, in which are conducted a number of chem- ical processes by which our food is converted from its crude state to a condition more suitable for digestion and nutrition, and made more agreeable to the palate. — Prof. Mattieu Williams. Half the trouble between mistresses and maids arises from the disagreeable sur- roundings to which servants are confined. There is no place more dismal than the ordinary kitchen in city dwellings. It is half underground, ill-lighted, and unwhole- some. What wonder, then, in the absence of sunlight, there is a lack of sunny temper and cheerful service ? An ill-lighted kitchen is almost sure to be a dirty one, where germs will thrive and multiply. Let sanitary kitchens be provided, and we shall have more patient mistresses and more willing servants. — Set. A SLUGGISH housemaid exclaimed, when scolded for the uncleanliness of her kitchen, "I'm sure the room would be clean enough if it were not for the nasty sun, which is always showing the dirty corners." — Sel. If we would look for ready hands and willing hearts in our kitchens, we should make them pleasant and inviting for those who literally bear the "burden and heat of the day " in this department of our homes, where, emphatically, " woman's work is never done." We should no longer be satisfied to locate our kitchens in the most un- desirable corner of the house. We should demand ample light, — sunshine if pos- sible, — and justly, too ; for the very light itself is inspiring to the worker. It will stir up cheer and breed content in the minds of those whose lot is cast in this work-a-day room. — Sel. Any invention on the part of the housekeeper intended to be a substitute for watchfulness, will prove a delusion and a snare. — Sel. "The first wealth is health," says Emerson. A KNOWLEDGE of sanitary principles should be regarded as an essential part of every woman's education, and obedience to sanitary laws should be ranked, as it was in the Mosaic code, as a religious duty. — Sel. Much of the air of the house comes from the cellar. A heated house acts like a chimney. A German experimenter states that one half of the cellar air makes its way into the first story, one third into the second, and one fifth into the third. 177] lEREAL is the name given to those seeds used he iiJ^ food (wheat, rye, oats, barley, corn, rice, etc.), which are AvMl produced by plants belonging to the vast order known as the grass family. They are used for food both in the unground state and in various forms of mill products. The grains are pre-eminently nutritious, and when well prepared, easily digested foods. In composition they are all similar, but variations in their constituent elements and the relative amounts of these various elements, give them dif- ferent degrees of alimentary value. They each contain one or more of the nitrogenous elements, — gluten, albumen, caseine, and fibrin, — together with starch, dextrine, sugar, and fatty matter, and also mineral elements and woody matter, or cel- lulose. The combined nutritive value of the grain foods is nearly three times that of beef, mutton, or poultry. As regards the proportion of the food elements necessary to meet the various requirements of the system, grains approach more nearly the proper standard than most other foods ; indeed, [78] THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 79 wheat contains exactly the correct proportion of the food elements. Being thus in themselves so nearly perfect foods, and when properly prepared, exceedingly palatable and easy of diges- tion, it is a matter of surprise that they are not more generally used ; yet scarcely one family in fifty makes any use of the grains, save in the form of flour, or an occasional dish of rice or oatmeal. This use of grains is far too meager to adequately rep- resent their value as an article of diet. Variety in the use of grains is as necessary as in the use of other food material, and the numerous grain preparations now to be found in market render it quite possible to make this class of foods a staple article of diet, if so desired, without their becoming at all monotonous. In olden times the grains were largely depended upon as a staple food, and it is a fact well authenticated by history that the highest condition of man has always been associated with wheat-consuming nations. The ancient Spartans, whose powers of endurance are proverbial, were fed on a grain diet, and the Roman soldiers who under Caesar conquered the world, carried each a bag of parched grain in his pocket as his daily ration. Other nationalities at the present time make extensive use of the various grains. Rice used in connection with some of the leguminous seeds, forms the staple article of diet for a large pro- portion of the human race. Rice, unlike the other grain foods, is deficient in the nitrogenous elements, and for this reason its use needs to be supplemented by other articles containing an excess of the nitrogenous material. It is for this reason, doubt- less, that the Hindoos use lentils, and the Chinese eat peas and beans in connection with rice. Notwithstanding the high nutritive value possessed by the cereal foods, it must be stated that as ordinarily used, in the form of mush, they can not be said to agree with every one. The difficulty often lies in the fact that the grain was either not properly cooked, not properly eaten, or not properly accom- panied. A grain, simply because it is a grain, is by no means warranted to fulfil faithfully its mission unless properly treated. 8o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN, Like many another good thing excellent in itself, if found in bad company, it is prone to create mischief, and in many cases the root of the whole difficulty may be found in the excessive amount of sugar used with the grain. Sugar is not needed with grains to increase their alimentary value. The starch which constitutes a large proportion of their food elements must itself be converted into sugar by the di- gestive processes before assimilation, hence the addition of cane sugar only increases the burden of the digestive organs, for the pleasure of the palate. The Asiatics, who subsist largely upon rice, use no sugar upon it, and why should it be con- sidered requisite for the enjoyment of wheat, rye, oatmeal, barley, and other grains, any more than it is for our enjoy- ment of bread or other articles made from these same grains ? Undoubtedly the use of grains would become more universal if they were served with less or no sugar. The continued use of sugar upon grains has a tendency to cloy the appetite, just as the constant use of cake or sweetened bread in the place of ordinary bread would do. Plenty of nut or dairy cream or fruit juice, is a sufficient dressing, and there are few persons who after a short trial would not come to enjoy the grains without sugar, and would then as soon think of dispensing with a meal altogether as to dispense with the grains. Even when served without sugar, the grains may not prove al- together healthful unless they are properly eaten. Because they are made soft by the process of cooking and on this account do not require masticating to break them up, the first process of digestion or insalivation is usually overlooked. But it must be remembered that grains are largely composed of starch, and that starch must be mixed with the saliva, or it will remain undigested in the stomach, since the gastric juice only digests the nitrogenous elements. For this reason it is desirable to eat the grains in connection with some hard food. Whole- wheat wafers, nicely toasted to make them crisp and tender, toasted rolls, and unfermented zwieback, are excellent for this purpose. Break two or three wafers into rather small pieces over each individual dish before pouring on the dressing. In THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 8 1 this way, a morsel of the hard food may be taken with each spoonful of the grains. The combination of foods thus secured, is most pleasing. This is a specially advantageous method of serving grains for children, who are so liable to swallow their food without proper mastication. Cooking of Grains. — The grains are foods largely com- posed of starch. In their cooking the aim should be not only to disintegrate their tissue, but so to change the starch as to render it easy of digestion. Starch passes through five stages in undergoing digestion. First it is converted into amylodextrine, or soluble starch ; second, eryihrodextrine ; thixA, achroodextrine ; fourth, maltose; and fifth, levulose, or fruit stigar. By cook- ing it is possible to carry the starch through the first three stages. The last two changes are the result of digestive action. The preliminary digestive work done by cooking varies in degree with the method employed. The cooking of cereals and cereal preparations in water of boiling temperature for a short period only, simply carries the starch through the first step of the digestive process by changing the raw starch, which is insol- uble, into soluble starch, or amylodextrine. To secure a further conversion into erythrodextrine requires the application of 175° C. dry heat, which can best be secured, with ordinary cooking facilities, by baking the cereal in an oven. The third stage of starch diges- tion is attained only in articles from which the moisture is already evaporated, by exposing such to the action of heat at a temperature of at least 320°, as in the toasting or rebaking of foods by which they are browned throughout. Zwieback, roasted rice, and granose flakes are examples of foods thus changed. Those cereals which have been prepared for the table by this latter method are best suited to the digestion of most peo- ple. For a hot weather diet there are few articles of food that can in every way serve so good a purpose as some of these served with nut cream or fruit sauces. In the ordinary preparation of cereal foods for the table by simply cooking for a few minutes, it is seldom that more than a 6 82 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. A Double Boiler. fraction of the starch completes even the first stage of digestion. An insufficiently cooked grain, although it may be palatable, is not in a condition to be acted upon by the saliva, which does not begin the process of digestion with raw starch, but can act only upon soluble starch, or ainylodextrine. Even the so-called steam- cooked grains advertised to be ready for use in a few minutes, require a much longer cooking to fit them for digestion. For the cooking of grains on the top of the stove, a double boiler is the most convenient utensil. If one does not possess a double boiler, a very fair substitute may be improvised by using a covered earthen crock placed within a kettle of boiling water, or by using two pails, a smaller within a larger one containing boiling water. An earthen crock or jar is best suited to the cooking of grains in the oven. Grains may be cooked in an ordinary kettle, but the difficulties en- countered, in order to prolong the cooking sufficiently and pre- vent burning, make it the least desirable utensil for this purpose. The quantity of liquid required varies with the different grains, the manner in which they are milled, the method by which they are cooked, and the consistency desired for the cooked grain. The following table gives the time necessary for cooking and the quantity of liquid required for the various grains, with the exception of rice, when cooked in a double boiler, a closed steamer, or when baked in a crock; if an ordi- nary kettle is used, a larger quantity of water will be needed: — Wheatose Rolled Wheat . . . Cracked '■' Pearled " Whole " . . Rolled Oats Coarse Oatmeal. Rolled Rye Pearled Barley .. . Coarse Hominy.. Fine " Cerealine Quantity of Water Hours to Grain. Required. Cook. I pa -t 4 3 parts 3 to 5 3 to 4 454 11 4 to 6 4 t( 4 to 6 6 (t 6 to 8 or li 2 or 3 4 3 11 3 to 4 4 to 6 3 to 4 4 to 5 ^ " 6 to lo s <( 4 to 6 I part Yz THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 83 All grains should be carefully looked over biefore being put to cook. In the cooking of grains, the following points should be observed: — 1 . Measure both liquid and grain accurately with the same utensil, or with two of equal size. 2. Have the water boiling when the grain is introduced, but do not allow it to boil for a long time previously, until it is con- siderably evaporated, as that will change the proportion of water and grain sufficiently to alter its consistency when cooked. In- troduce the grain slowly, so as not to stop the boiling of the water, and let it boil rapidly until the grain ceases sinking to the bottom, and the whole becomes thickened. If the grain is cooked in a double boiler, this first boiling should be done with the inner dish directly over the fire, and when the grain has thickened or become " set," as it is termed, the dish should at once be placed in the outer boiler, the water in which should be boiling. It will then require no further care during the entire cooking, save to keep the outer boiler filled and the water boil- ing. If the grain is to be cooked in a steam-cooker or in the oven, as soon as set it may be turned into a suitable dish, and placed at once in the steamer or oven to complete the cooking. If an ordinary kettle is used, it is well to place it upon an iron ring or a brick on some part of the range where it will just sim- mer, for the remainder of the cooking. 3. Stir the grain continuously until it has set, but not at all afterward. Grains are much more appetizing if, while properly softened, they can still be made to retain their original form. Stirring renders the preparation pasty, and destroys its appear- ance. Grains cooked in a double boiler will require no stirring, and there will be little danger of their being lumpy, underdone on top, and scorched at the bottom, as is so often the case when cooked in a single boiler. 4. Cook continuously. If it be necessary to replenish the water in the outer boiler at any time, let it be done with water of boiling temperature. If it is desired to have the grain 84 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. quite thick and dry, the boiler should be left uncovered during the latter part of the cooking. If preferred moist, keep the cover on. If the grain is to be cooked in the oven, first introduce it into boiling water, as already directed, allow it to boil until well set, then turn into a crock, and finish in a slow oven. Grains for Breakfast. — Since hasty preparation will not suffice for the grains, they cannot be conveniently cooked in the morning in time for breakfast. This difficulty may be obviated by cooking the day previous, and reheating in the following way : — ^ Place the grain, when sufficiently cooked, in the refrigerator or in some place where it will cool quickly (as slow cooling might cause fermentation), to remain over night. If cooked in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware double boiler, it may be left undisturbed, if uncovered. If cooked in tin or iron, turn the grain into a large earthen or china dish. To heat in the morn- ing, fill the outer boiler with boiling water, place the inner dish containing the grain therein, and steam till thoroughly heated. No stirring and no additional liquid will be necessary, and if placed upon the stove when beginning the preparations for breakfast, it will be ready for serving in good season. If the grain has been kept in an earthen dish, it may best be reheated by placing that inside a steam-cooker or an ordinary steamer over a kettle of boiling water. Cracked wheat, pearled wheat, oatmeal, and other coarse grain preparations to be reheated, require for cooking a half cup of water in addition to the quantity given in the table. For rolled wheat, rolled oats, rolled rye, and other crushed grains, no more is needed. Grains may be used for breakfast without reheating, if served with some hot dressing. If one has an Aladdin oven, the problem of grains for breakfast may be easily solved by cooking them all night, and if started late in the evening, they may be thus cooked over a single-burner oil stove with the flame turned low. THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 8$ Grains an Economical Food. — While grains are pre-emi- nently among the most nutritious of foods, they are also among the most economical, the average price being from five to seven cents a pound, and even less when purchased in bulk. If it be objected that they require much fuel to secure the prolonged cooking necessary, we would say that a few cents' worth of oil a week and a small lamp stove will accomplish the cooking in a most efficient manner. For a hot-weather food there are few articles which give greater satisfaction and require less time and labor on the part of the housewife than grains, cooked by the aid of a small lamp stove. All grains should be kept in a perfectly dry place protected from air and moisture. WHEAT. Description. — Wheat is the most important of the grain foods. It is probably a native of Southwestern Asia, though like most grains cultivated from the earliest periods, its history is extremely obscure. Wheat is of two principal kinds, characterized as soft and hard wheat, though there are hundreds of named varieties of the grain. The distinction between many of these is due to variation in the relative proportions of starch and nitrogenous matter. Some contain not more than eight per cent of nitrog- enous elements, while others contain eighteen or twenty per cent, with a corresponding decrease in carbonaceous elements. This difference depends upon the soil, cultivation, season, climate, and other conditions under which the grain is pro- duced. The structure of the wheat grain consists of an external tegument of a hard, woody nature, so coherent that it appears in the form of scales or bran when the wheat is ground, and an inner portion, more soft and friable, consisting of several cellular layers. The layer nearest the outer husk contains vegetable fibrin and fatty matter. The second layer is largely composed of gluten cells ; while the center comprising the bulk 86 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Sectional View of Wheat Kernel. of the grain, is chiefly made up of starch granules with a small proportion of gluten. The structure of a wheat kernel is well illustrated in the accompanying cut. As will be seen, the different food elements are situated in different parts of the grain, and not uniformly distributed throughout its structure. The outer husk of the berry is composed wholly of innutritious and indi- gestible matter, but the thin layers which lie next this outer covering con- tain the larger proportion of the nitrogenous ele- ments to be found in the entire kernel. The cen- tral portion consists al- most wholly of farina- ceous matter. Phosphates and other mineral matter are present to some extent throughout the en- tire grain, but preponderate in the external part. Here is also found a peculiar, soluble, active principle called diastase, which possesses the power of converting starch into sugar. The dark color and marked flavor of Graham bread is undoubtedly due to the influence of this element. Until within a few years the unground grain was rarely used as an article of food, but people are beginning to appreciate its wholesomeness, and cracked, rolled, and pearled wheats are coming rapidly into favor. Cracked wheat is the grain cleaned and then cut into two or more pieces ; in rolled wheat the grains are mashed between rollers, by which process they are thoroughly softened in every part, and are then easily cooked. Pearled wheat is the whole grain cleaned and dressed. The whole grain is also cooked sometimes in its natural state. Preparation and Cooking. — Few articles of food show greater difference between good and poor cooking than the various grains. Dry, harsh, or underdone, they are as un- THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 87 wholesome as unpalatable. Like most of the grains, wheat, with the exception of new wheat boiled whole, should be put into boiling water and allowed to cook continuously but slowly until done. Any of the unground preparations require pro- longed cooking. The average length of time and the approxi- mate amount of water needed in cooking one cupful of the various wheat preparations in a double boiler, is stated on page 82. REOIPES. Pearled Wheat. — Heat a quart of water to boiling in the inner dish of a double boiler, and stir into it one half pint of pearled wheat. Let it boil rapidly until thickened, then place in the outer boiler, and cook continu- ously from four to six hours. BroTrned Wheat. — Brown the wheat as directed for Browned Rice on page 100. Cook the same as above. Cracked Wheat. — Cracked wheat may be cooked the same as pearled wheat by using four and one half parts of water to one of grain. The time required to cook it thoroughly is about the same as for pearled wheat. Boiled Wheat. — This preparation of wheat requires only three parts water to one of wheat. It should be cooked in the same way as pearled wheat, but requires only three hours' cooking. Boiled WTieat (sometimes called frumenty). — Select newly cut wheat, well rubbed or threshed out. Look it over carefully, wash, and put to cook in five times its measure of cold water. Let it come to a boil, and cook gently until the grains burst open, and it can be readily mashed between the thumb and finger. This will require from four to ten hours, depending upon the age and variety of the wheat used. When done, it should be even full of a rich, thick liquor. If necessary, add more boiling water, but stir as little as possible. It may be served with cream, the same as other wheat preparations. It is also excellent served with sweet or subacid fruit sauces. Wheat with Raisins. — Raisins or Zante currants may be added to any of the foregoing recipes, if desired. The raisins or currants should be well steamed previously, however, and stirred in lightly and evenly just before dishing. If cooked with the grain, they become soft, broken, and insipid. Figs, well steamed and chopped, may be added in the same way. Wheat with Fresh Fruit. — Fresh whortleberries, blueberries, and blackberries stirred into any of the well-cooked wheat preparations just be- fore serving, make a very desirable addition. A most delicious dish may be prepared by stirring into well-cooked cracked wheat a few spoonfuls of rather thick cream and some fresh wild blackberries. Servct hat. 88 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Molded Wheat. — Cracked wheat, rolled wheat, or pearled wheat, cooked according to the foregoing recipes, and turned into molds until cold, makes a very palatable dessert, and may be served with sugar and cream or with fruit juice. Bits of jelly placed on top of the molds in the form of stars or crosses, add to the appearance. Molded grains are also very nice served with fresh berries, either mashed or whole, arranged around the mold. FINER Mai PRODUCTS OF WHEAT. The grain of wheat is inclosed in a woody envelope. The cellular layers just beneath contain the largest proportion of nitrogenous matter, in the form of gluten, and are hard of pul- verization, while the starchy heart of the grain is easily crum- bled into fine dust. Thus it will be readily understood that when the grain is subjected to an equal pulverizing force, the several portions will be likely to be crushed into particles of different sizes. The outer husk being toughest, will be the least affected, the nitrogenous or glutenous portion will be much finer, while the brittle starch will be reduced to powder. This first simple product of grinding is termed wheat meal, un- bolted, or Graham flour, and of course contains all the elements of the grain. In ordinary milling, however, this is subjected to various siftings, boltings, or dressings, to separate the finer from the coarser particles, and then subdivided into various grades of flour, which vary much in composition and properties. The coarser product contains the largest proportion of nutri- ents, while in the finer portions there is an exclusion of a large part of the nitrogenous element of the grain. The outer por- tions of the wheat kernel, which contain the greater part of the nitrogenous element, are darker in color than the central, starchy portion. It will be apparent, then, that the finer and whiter the flour, the less nutriment it is likely to contain, and that in the use of superfirie white flour the eye is gratified at the expense of the body. A preparation called farina, is made from the central portion of wheat, freed from bran, and crushed in granules. Another preparation, called wheatose, is prepared by granulating the THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 89 outer layers of the kernel together with the germ of the wheat. This preparation, comparatively a new one, includes the most nutritious properties of the grain, and its granular form renders it excellent for mushes as well as for other purposes. Farina is scarcely more nutritious than white flourj^and should not be used as a staple food. Wheatose contains the best ele- ments of the wheat grain in good proportion, and is one of the best preparations of wheat. Other preparations of wheat somewhat similar in character are farinose, germlet, etc. RECIPES. Farina. — Heat a pint of milk and one of water, or if preferred, a quart of milk, in the inner cup of a double boiler ; and when boiling, stir in eight tablespoonfuls of farina, moistened evenly with a little milk. Let it boil rapidly until well set, which will be in about five or eight minutes ; then place in the outer boiler, and cook one hour. Serve cold or hot with a dressing of cream or fruit juices. Farina may be cooked in water alone, or nut milk or malted nuts may be nsed in place of dairy milk. Farina witli Fig Sance. — Cook the farina as in the foregoing recipe,— and serve hot with a fig sauce prepared as follows : — ■" Carefully look over, wash, and chop or cut quite finely, enough good figs to make a cupful. Stew in a pint of water, to which has been added a table- spoonful of sugar, until they are one homogeneous mass. If the figs are not of the best quality and do not readily soften, it is well, after stewing for a time, to rub them through a colander or vegetable press to break up the tough portions and make a smooth sauce. Put a spoonful of the hot fig sauce on each individual dish of farina, and serve with cream or with- out dressing. Farina with Fresli Frnit.— Cook the farina as previously directed. Have some sliced yellow peaches, mellow sweet apples, or bananas in a dish, turn the farina over them, stir up lightly with a fork, and serve hot with cream. Molded Farina. — Farina to be used cold may be cooked in the same manner as before described, with two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar added at the same time with the farina, and when done, molded in cups previously wet with a little cold water. Serve with a dressing of fruit juice, whipped cream flavored with lemon, or mock cream flavored with cocoanut. Wheatose. — To four parts of water boiling in the inner dish of a double boiler add slowly, so as not to stop the boiling of the water, one part of Wheatose. Stir until thickened, then place in the outer boiler, 9P SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. i and steam from three to five hours. Serve hot with cream, or mold in cups previously dipped in cold water, and serve with a dressing of fruit juice. The fig sauce prepared as previously directed, is also excellent with wheatose. Graham Porridge. — Good flour is the first requisite for making good Graham porridge. Poor Graham flour cannot be made into first-class por- ridge. Flour made from the best white winter wheat is perhaps the best. It may be used either sifted or unsifted, as preferred. The proportion of flour and liquid to be used will necessarily vary somewhat with the quality of the flour, but in general, three parts water to one of flour will be needed. Too much flour not only makes too thick porridge, but gives to it an under- done taste. Stir the dry flour rapidly into boiling water (which should not cease to boil during the process), until a thick porridge is obtained. It is well to have it a little thinner at first than is desirable for serving, as it will thicken by cooking. Cook slowly at least one hour. A longer time makes it more digestible. Left-over porridge is very nice spread on rather shallow tins, and simply heated quickly in a hot oven. Graham Porridge Molded.— Graham porridge prepared in the manner directed above may, when done, be turned into molds while hot, and allowed to become cold; to be served with fruit juice, fruit dressing, almond cream, or cocoanut sauce. Instead of water for the cooking, thin malted nuts may be used. Diluted nut cream may be used in the same manner. Fruit juices of various kinds may also be used in place of other liquid for cooking the grain. Serve with any preferred dressing. Graham Porridge with Nut Meal. — Graham porridge made as previously directed is nice served with a dressing of dry almond meal. Cold Graham porridge sliced thinly and browned in the oven is excellent served hot with a dusting of almond meal. If liked, roasted almonds may be used as an accompaniment. Other nut meats may be used, but care should be exercised to have the meats large so they will not escape mastication when thus used with a soft food. Graham Porridge with Dates. — Prepare a porridge as previously directed. When done, place in the dish in which it is to be served, some nice, fresh dates from which the stones have been removed. Pour the porridge over them, and stir up lightly, taking care not to break the fruit, . and serve. Raisins previously steamed, or figs steamed and cut in pieces, may be used instead of dates. Serve hot, or mold and serve cold. Plum Porridge. — Prepare a Graham mush as previously directed, and when done, add to it a cup of well-steamed raisins and sufficient rich milk or nut cream to thin it to the consistency of porridge. Graham Apple Porridge. — Prepare a smooth apple sauce of rather tart apples. Sweeten it slightly, and thin with boiling water. Have this mixt- THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 9 1 ure boiling, and add to it Graham flour, either sprinkled in dry or moist- ened with water, sufficient to make a well-thickened porridge. Cook, and serve hot with cream. Breakfast Granola.— Granola, a cooked preparation of wheat and oats, manufactured by the Sanitarium Food Co., makes a most appetizing and quickly-prepared breakfast dish. Into a quart of boiling water sprinkle a pint of granola. Cook for two or three minutes, and serve hot with cream. Fruit Granola. — Prepare the granola as previously directed, and stir into it, when done, a large cupful of nicely steamed, seedless raisins. Serve hot with cream. Milk may be used instead of water, if preferred. Peach Granola. — Instead of the raisins as directed in the foregoing recipe, add to the granola, when done, a pint of sliced yellow peaches. Finely-cut, mellow sweet apples, sliced bananas, and blueberries may be used in a similar way. Bran Jelly. — Select some clean wheat bran, sprinkle it slowly into boiling water as for Graham mush, stirring briskly meanwhile with a wooden spoon, until the whole is about the consistency of thick gruel. Cook slowly in a double boiler for two hours. Strain through a fine wire sieve placed over the top of a basin. When strained, reheat to boiling. Then stir into it a spoonful or so of sifted Graham flour, rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Boil up once ; turn into molds previously wet in cold water, and when cool, serve with cream or fruit juice. THE OAT, OR AVENA. Description. — The native country of the plant from which our common varieties of the oat are derived, is unknown. Oat grains have been found among the remains of the lake-dwellers in Switzerland, and it is probable that this plant was cultivated by the prehistoric inhabitants of Central Europe. The ancient Greeks and Romans used oats, ranking them next in value to barley, which they esteemed above all other cereals. Although principally grown as food for horses, the oat, when divested of its husk and broken by a process of mill- ing, is an exceedingly nutritious and valuable article of diet for human beings ; and there is no article of food that has in- creased in general favor more rapidly in the last few years than this grain. The Scotch have long been famed for their large consump- tion of oatmeal. It forms the staple article of diet for the 92 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. peasantry, to which fact is generally attributed the fine physique and uniform health for which they, as a race, are particularly noted. It is related that Dr. Johnson, of diction- ary fame, who never lost an opportunity to disparage the Scotch, on one occasion defined oats as, " In Scotland, food for men ; in England, food for horses." He was well answered by an indignant Scotchman who replied, " Yes ; and where can you find such fine men as in Scotland, or such horses as in England > " Oatmeal justly ranks high as an alimentary substance. It contains about the same proportion of nitrogenous elements as wheat, and with the exception of maize, is richer in fatty mat- ter than any other of the cultivated cereals. In general struct- ure the oat resembles wheat. To prepare oats for food, the husk, which is wholly indi- gestible in character, must be thoroughly removed. To accom- plish this, the grain is first kiln-dried to loosen the husk, and afterward submitted to a process of milling. Denuded of its integument, the nutritive part of the grain is termed groats ; broken into finer particles, it constitutes what is known as oatmeal ; rolled oats, or avcna, is prepared by a process which crushes the kernels. Oatmeal varies also in degrees of tritura- tion, some kinds being ground much finer than others. The more finely-ground products are sometimes adulterated with barley meal, which is cheaper than oatmeal and less nutritious. The black specks which are sometimes found in oatmeal are particles of black oats which have been ground in connection with the other. Oatmeal lacks the tenacity of wheaten flour, and cannot, without the addition of some other flour, be made into light bread. It is, however, largely consumed by the inhabitants of Scotland and the north of England, in the form of oatcakes. The oatmeal is mixed with water, kneaded thoroughly, then rolled into very thin cakes, and baked on an iron plate or griddle suspended over a fire. So much, however, depends upon the kneading, that it is said that the common inquiry THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 93 before a housewife will engage a domestic servant in Scotland, is whether or not she is a good kneader of oatcakes. The most common use of oatmeal in this country is in the form of mush or porridge. For this the coarser grades of meal are preferable. In point of nutritive value, oatmeal ranks high among grain products, containing, as it does, a large proportion of bone- and muscle-forming material, and for persons with sound stomachs it forms a most wholesome article of diet when properly prepared and eaten. It should not, however, be re- garded as equally adapted to the use of every person because of the fact that it possesses so high a nutritive value. The time required for its digestion is somewhat longer than that of wheaten meal prepared in the same manner. It is apt to disagree with certain classes of dyspeptics, having a tendency to produce acidity, though it is serviceable as an article of diet in some forms of indigestion. The manner of its preparation for the table has very much to do with its wholesomeness. Indeed, many objectionable dishes are prepared from it. One of these, called brose, much used in Scotland, is made by simply stirring oatmeal into some hot liquid, as beef broth, or the water in which a vegetable has been boiled. The result is a coarse, pasty mass of almost raw oatmeal, an extremely indigestible compound, the use of which causes water brash. A preparation called sowens, or flummery, made by macerating the husks of the oats in water from twenty-four to thirty-six hours, until the mixture ferments, then boiling down to the consistency of gruel, is a popular article of food among the Scotch and Welsh peasantry. When boiled down still more, so it will form a firm jelly when cold, the preparation is called budrum. Preparation and Cooking. — Oatmeal requires much cook- ing to prepare it properly for digestion; and the coarser the meal the longer it should be allowed to cook. A common fault in the use of oatmeal is that it is served in an underdone state, which makes a coarse, indigestible dish of what, with more lengthy preparation, would be an agreeable and nutritious food. Like most of the grains, it is best put into boiling soft water, and allowed to cook continously and slowly. It is greatly in- 94 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. jured by stirring, and is therefore preferably cooked in a double boiler or closed steamer. If it is necessary to use an ordinary kettle, place it on some part of the range where the contents will only simmer ; or a hot brick may be placed under it to keep it from cooking too fast. It may be cooked the day previous, and warmed for use the same as other grains. RECIPES. Oatmeal.— Heat a quart of water to boiling in the inner dish of a double boiler, sift into it one cup of coarse oatmeal, and boil rapidly, stirring continuously until it sets; then place in the outer boiler, the water in which should be boiling, and cook three hours or longer. Servo with cream or nut cream. Oatmeal Trith Fruit. — Prepare the oatmeal as directed above, and stir in lightly, when dishing for the table, some sliced mellow and juicy raw sweet apples. Strawberry apples and other slightly tart apples are like- wise excellent for the purpose. Well-ripened peaches and bananas may also be used, if care is taken to preserve the slices whole, so as to present an appetizing appearance. Both this and the plain oatmeal are best eaten with toasted whole-wheat wafers or some other hard food. Oatmeal Blancmange No. 1. — Soak a cupful of coarse oatmeal over night in a pint and a half of water. In the morning, beat the oatmeal well with a spoon, and afterwards pass all the soluble portion through a fine strainer. Place the liquid in the inner dish of a double boiler, and cook for half an hour. Turn into cups, cool fifteen or twenty minutes, and serve warm with cream and sugar, or a dressing of fruit juice. A lemon sauce prepared as directed on page 354 likewise makes an excellent dressing. Oatmeal Blancmange No. 2. — Take a pint of well-cooked oatmeal, add to it a pint of milk, part cream if obtainable. Beat well together, aud strain through a fine wire sieve. Turn the liquid into a saucepan, and boil for a few moments, until it is thick enough to drop from the point of a spoon ; then turn into cups previously wet in cold water, and mold. Serve with a dressing of fruit juice or whipped cream slightly sweetened and flavored with lemon. Jellied Oatmeal. — Cook oatmeal or rolled oats with an additional cup or cup and a half of water, and when done, turn into cups and mold. Serve cold with hot cream or malted nuts. Mixed Grains. — A cup and a half of rolled wheat mixed with one half cup of coarse oatmeal and cooked the same as oatmeal, is preferred by some to oatmeal alone, THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 95 Boiled Oats. — This preparation of oats should be cooked the same as oatmeal, but requires only three parts water to one of rolled oats, when cooked in a double boiler. Oatmeal with Apple. — Cold oatmeal which has been left over may be made into an appetizing dish by molding in alternate layers with nicely steamed tart apple, sprinkled lightly with sugar. Serve with almond cream. Other cooked fruit, such as cherries, evaporated peaches, and apricots, may be used in the same way. A very pleasing dish is made by using between the layers ripe yellow peaches and plums sliced together, and lightly sprinkled with sugar. Oatmeal Porridge. — Into a quart and a half of water, which should be boiling in the inner dish of a double boiler, sprinkle one cup of rather coarse oatmeal. Boil rapidly, stirring meanwhile until the grain is set; then place in the outer boiler, and cook continuously for three hours or longer. A half cup of cream or malted nuts added just before serving, is a desirable addition. BARLEY. Description. — Barley is stated by historians to be the oldest of all cultivated grains. It seems to have been the principal bread plant among the ancient Hebrews, Greeks, and Romans. The Jews especially held the grain in high esteem, and sacred history usually uses it interchangeably with wheat, when speaking of the fruits of the earth. Among the early Greeks and Romans, barley was almost the only food of the common people and the soldiers. The flour was made into gruel, after the following recipe : " Dry, near- the fire or in the oven, twenty pounds of barley-flour, then parch it. Add three pounds of linseed meal, half a pound of coriander seed, two ounces of salt, and the water necessary." If an especially delectable dish was desired, a little millet was also added to give the paste more "cohesion and delicacy." Barley was also used whole as a food, in which case it was fijrst parched, which is still the manner of preparing it in some parts of Palestine and many districts of India, also in the Canary Islands, where it is known as gofio. Of this custom a lady from Palestine writes : " The reapers, during barley harvest, take bunches of the half-ripe grain, and singe, or parch, it over 96 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. a fire of thorns. The milk being still in the grain, it is very sweet, and is considered a delicacy." In the time of Charles I, barley meal took the place of wheat almost entirely as the food of the common people in England. In some parts of Europe, India, and other Eastern countries, it is still largely consumed as the ordinary farinaceous food of the peasantry and soldiers. The early settlers of New England also used it largely for bread making. At the present day only a very insignificant quantity of barley is used for food purposes in this country, and most of this in the unground state. Barley is less nutritious than wheat, and to many people is less agreeable in flavor. It is likewise somewhat inferior in point of digestibility. Its starch cells being less soluble, they offer more resistance to the gastric juice. There are several distinct species of barley, but that most commonly cultivated is designated as two-rowed, or two-eared barley. In general structure, the barley grain resembles wheat and oats. Simply deprived of its outer husk, the grain is termed Scotch milled or pot barley. Subjected still further to the process by which the fibrous outer coat of the grain is removed, it consti- tutes what is known as pearled barley. Pearl barley ground into flour is known as patent barley. Barley flour, owing to the fact that it contains so small a proportion of gluten, needs to be mixed with wheaten flour for bread-making purposes. When added in small quantity to whole-wheat bread, it has a tend- ency to keep the loaf moist and is thought by some to improve the flavor. The most general use made of this cereal as a food, is in the form of pearled, or Scotch, barley. When well boiled, barley re- quires about two hours for digestion. General Suggestions for Cooking Barley.— The condi- tions requisite for cooking barley are essentially the same as for oatmeal. It is best cooked slowly. Four parts of water to one of grain will be needed for steaming or cooking in a double boiler, and from four to five hours' time will be required, unless the grain has been previously soaked for several hours, in which THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 97 case three hours will do. If the stron^" flavor of the grain is objected to, it may be soaked over night and cooked in fresh water. This method will, however, be a sacrifice of some of the nutriment contained in the grain. Barley thus soaked will re- quire only three parts water to one of barley for cooking. RECIPES. Baked Barley.— Soak six tablespoonfuls of barley in cold water over night. In the morning, turn off the water, and put the barley in an earthen pudding dish, and pour three and one half pints of boiling water over it; add salt if desired, and bake in a moderately quick oven about two and one half hours, or till perfectly soft, and all the water is ab- sorbed. When about half done, add four or five tablespoonfuls of sugar mixed with grated lemon peel. It may be eaten warm, but is very nice molded in cups and served cold with cream or nut cream. Pearled Barley Trith Baisins. — Carefully look over and wash a cupful of pearled barley. Cook in a double boiler in five cups of boiling water for four hours. Just before serving, add a cupful of raisins which have been prepared by pouring boiling water over them and allowing them to stand until swollen. Serve hot, with cream or nut cream. Pearled Barley with Lentil Gravy.— Pearled barley cooked in the same manner, but without the addition of the raisins, is excellent served with cream or with a lentil gravy prepared as directed on page 226. RICE. Description. — Rice is one of the most abundantly used and most digestible of all the cereals. It grows wild in India, and it is probable that this is its native home. It is, however, now cultivated in most tropical and sub-tropical climates, and is said to supply the principal food for nearly one third of the human race. It is mentioned in history several hundred years before Christ. According to Soyer, an old writer on foods, the Greeks and Romans held rice in high esteem, believing it to be a panacea for chest and lung diseases. The grain is so largely grown and used by the Chinese that " fan," their word for rice, has come to enter into many com- pound words. A beggar is called a " tou-fan-tee," that is, " the rice-seeking one." The ordinary salutation, " Che-fan," which 98 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. answers to our " How do you do ? " means, " Have you eaten your rice ? " Rice requires a wet soil, and the fields in which the grain is raised, sometimes called "paddy "- fields, are periodically irrigated. Before ripening, the water is drained off", and the crop is then cut with a sickle, made into shocks, stacked, threshed, and cleaned, much like wheat. The rice kernel is inclosed within two coverings, a coarse outer husk, which is easily removed, and an inner, reddish, siliceous coating. " Paddy " is the name given in India to the rice grain when inclosed in its husk. The same is termed " rough rice " in this country. The outer husk of the rice is usually removed in the process of threshing, but the inner red skin, or hull, ad- heres very closely, and is removed by rubbing and pounding. The rough rice is first ground between large stones, and then conveyed into mortars, and pounded with iron-shod pestles. Thence, by fanning and screening, the husk is fully removed, and the grain divided into three different grades, whole, mid- dlings, and small whole grains, and polished ready for market. The middlings consist of the larger broken pieces of the grain ; the small rice, of the small fragments mixed with the chit of the grain. The broken rice, well dried, is some- times ground into flour of different degrees of fineness. The small rice is much sweeter and somewhat superior in point of nutritive value to the large or head rice usually met with in commerce. Rice is characterized by a large percentage of starch, and is so deficient in other food elements that if used alone, unless consumed in very large quantities, it will not furnish the req- uisite amount of nitrogenous material necessary for a perfect health food. For this reason, it is necessary to supplement its use with some other food containing an excess of nitroge- nous elements, as peas, beans, milk, etc. Associated with other articles rich in albuminous elements, rice is exceed- ingly valuable, and one of the most easily digested foods. Boiled or steamed rice requires but a little over one hour for digestion. A JATAXESE DIXXP.R THE M4( AKDNI \ EM)ER THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 99 Preparation and Cooking. — Rice needs to be thoroughly- washed to remove the earthy taste it is so apt to have. A good way to do this is to put it into a colander, in a deep pan of water. Rub the rice well with the hands, lifting the col- ander in and out the water, and changing the water until it is clear ; then drain. In this way the grit is deposited in the water, and the rice left thoroughly clean. The best method of cooking rice is by steaming it. If boiled in much water, it loses a portion of its already small percentage of nitrogenous elements. It requires much less time for cooking than any of the other grains. Like all the dried grains and seeds, rice swells in cooking to several times its original bulk. When cooked, each grain of rice should be separate and distinct, yet perfectly tender. REC/PES. Steamed Rice. — Soak a cup of rice in one and a fourth cups of water for an hour, then add a cup of milk and a level teaspoonful of salt. Turn into an earthen dish suitable for serving it from at table, and place in a steam-cooker or a covered steamer over a kettle of boiling water, and steam for an hour. Boiled Rice (Japanese method). — Thoroughly cleanse the rice by washing in several waters, and soak it over night. In the morning, drain it, and put to cook in an equal quantity of boiling water, that is, a pint of water for a pint of rice. For cooking, a stewpan with tightly fitting cover should be used. Heat the water to boiling, then add the rice, and after stirring, put on the cover, which is not again to be removed during the boiling. At first, as the water boils, steam will puff out freely from under the cover, but when the water has nearly evaporated, which will be in eight to ten minutes, according to the age and quality of the rice, only a faint suggestion of steam will be observed, and the stewpan must then be removed from over the fire to some place on the range, where it will not burn, to swell and dry for fifteen or twenty minutes. Rice to be boiled in the ordinary manner requires two quarts of boil- ing water to one cupful of rice. It should be boiled rapidly until tender, then drained at once, and set in a moderate oven to become dry. Picking and lifting lightly occasionally with a fork will make it more flaky and dry. Care must be taken, however, not to mash the rice grains. Rice with Fig Sauce. — Steam a cupful of best rice as directed above, and when done, serve with a fig sauce prepared as directed on page 89.J lOO SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Dish a spoonful of the fig sauce with each saucer of rice, and serve with plenty of cream. Rice served in this wny requires no sugar for dressing, and is a most wholesome breakfast dish. Orange Kice. — Wash and steam the rice according to directions al- ready given. Prepare some oranges by separating into sections and cut- ting each section in halves, removing the seeds and all the white portion. Sprinkle the oranges lightly with sugar, and let them stand while the rice is cooking. Serve a portion of the orange on each saucerful of rice. Rice with Raisins. — Carefully wash a cupful of rice, soak it, and cook ^ as directed for Steamed Rice. After the rice has begun to swell, but be- ^ fore it has softened, stir into it lightly, using a fork for the purpose, a cupful of raisins or Zante currants. Serve with almond cream. Rice Tvitli Peaches. — Steam the rice as previously directed, and when done, serve with cream or almond cream and a nicely ripened peach pared and sliced on each individual dish. Browned Rice. — Spread a cupful of rice on a shallow baking tin, and put into a moderately hot oven to brown. It will need to be stirred fre- quently to prevent burning and to secure a uniformity of color. Each rice kernel, when sufficiently browned, should be of a yellowish brown, about the color of ripened wheat. Steam the same as directed for ordinary rice, using only two cups of water for each cup of browned rice, and omitting the preliminary soaking. When properly cooked, each kernel will be separate, dry, and mealy. Rice prepared in this manner is undoubt- edly more digestible than when cooked without browning. Millet is steamed the same as rice, using the same proportion of liquid. RYE. Description. — Rye is much more largely grown and used in European countries than in America. In appearance it closely resembles wheat, although somewhat darker in color and smaller in size. Bread made from rye constitutes the sta- ple food of the people in many parts of Europe. In nutritive value such bread nearly equals that made from wheat, but it has an acid taste not relished by persons unaccustomed to its use. Rye is found in market deprived of its husk and crushed or rolled, and also in the form of meal and flour. THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. ICI RECIPES. Rolled Rye. — Into three parts water boiling in the inner dish of a double boiler, stir one part rolled rye. Boil rapidly until set, stirring meanwhile, then place in the outer boiler, and cook for three or more hours. Rye Mush. — Stir a cupful of rye meal to a smooth batter with a cupful of water, then turn it slowly into two cupfuls of water, which should be boiling on the range, in the inner dish of a double boiler. Stir until thickened, then place in the outer boiler, and cook for an hour or longer. MAIZE, OR INDIAN CORN. Description. — There can be little doubt that maize is of American origin. The discoverers of the new world found it cultivated by the aborigines, and from the fact that corn was the generic term then largely used to designate grain (in old English, " corn " means grain), they named it " Indian corn." Since that time it has been carried to nearly every part of the globe, and probably it is more extensively used than any other one of the cereals, with the exception office. This is undoubt- edly due to the fact that it is the most prolific of the grains, and is adapted to the widest range of climate. Maize was the chief food of the slaves of Brazil, as it used to be of those in our own Southern States, and is very largely consumed in Mexico and Peru. It was used very little in Europe until the Irish famine in 1847 ; since then, it has be- come a staple food with the poorer classes. The varieties of corn are almost too numerous to be counted. For general purposes, however, they may be classified as field corn, sweet corn, and pop corn. Corn is characterized by an excess of fatty matter, con- taining upwards of three times the amount of that element to be found in wheat. Corn requires stronger powers of digestion than wheat, and is unsuited to some stomachs. The skin of the corn kernel is thin, and when subjected to milling processes, is included in the grinding. When well ground, it can be digested, with the exception of the siliceous coating. t02 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Sweet corn and some of the field varieties, form a nutritious and favorite food while green. The mature grain is used in many forms. The whole grain, hulled, is an agreeable food. Hulled, broken, or split to various degrees of fineness, It is known according to the size to which the grain has been re- duced as hominy, fine hominy, or grits ; or, if finer still, as samp. Subjected to a process of still finer trituration, it forms meal. Cornstarch consists of the farinaceous portions of the grain. On account of the large proportion of fatty matter con- tained in maize, it acquires, if kept for some time, an unpleas- ant, rancid taste, occasioned by the usual change which takes place in fat when exposed to the atmosphere. The new process granular meal, which is prepared from corn dried for a long period before grinding, becomes rank less quickly than that ground in the old way. Maize meal is very largely consumed in the form of mush or qorridge. This, in Ireland, is termed " stirabout ; " in Italy it is called " polenta ; " and in British Honduras it is known as "corn lob." General Suggestions for Cooking — Most of the various preparations from maize require prolonged cooking to render them wholesome ; this is equally true respecting mushes pre- pared from samp or meal, a dish which unfortunately some cook in bygone days saw fit to term "hasty pudding." Un- thinking people since, supposing it to have been so named because of the little time required to cook it, have commonly prepared it in fifteen or twenty minutes, whereas from one to two hours, or even longer, are necessary to cook it properly. Hulled corn, hominy, and grits, all require prolonged cooking. The time for cooking these preparations may be somewhat lessened if they are previously soaked over night. They should, however, be cooked in the same water in which they are soaked. THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. lOj REC/PES. Corn Meal. — Stir together one pint of corn meal, one tablespoonful of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and one pint of cold milk. Turn this slowly, stirring well meanwhile, into one quart of boiling water, which should not cease to boil during the introduction of the batter. Cook three or four hours. If milk is not desirable, water alone may be used, in which case two tablespoonfuls of flour will be needed. Cook in a double boiler. Corn Meal with Fruit. — Corn meal prepared in the above manner may have some well-steamed raisins or chopped figs added to it just be- fore serving. Corn Meal Cubes. — Left-over cooked corn meal may be made into an appetizing dish by first slicing into rather thick slices, then cutting into cubes about one inch square. Put the cubes into a tureen and turn over them a quantity of hot milk or cream. Cover the dish, let them stand until thoroughly heated through, then serve. Brotraed Corn MeaL — Slice cold cooked corn meal rather thin, brust each slice with thick sweet cream, and brown in a hot oven until well heated through. Samp. — Use one part of samp to four and one half parts of boilinjt water. It is the best plan to reserve enough of the water to moisten the samp before adding it to the boiling water, as it is much less likely to cook in lumps. Boil rapidly, stirring continuously, until the mush has well set, then slowly for from two 'o three hoars. Cerealine Makes. — Into one measure of boiling liquid stir an equal measure of cerealine flakes, and cook in a double boiler from one half to three fourths of an hour. Hulled Com. — To Hull the Corn. — Put enough wood ashes into a large kettle to half fill it; then nearly fill with hot water, and boil ten minutes. Drain off the water from the ashes, turn it into a kettle, and pour in four quarts of clean, shelled field corn, white varieties preferred. Boil till the hulls rub off. Skim the corn out of the lye water, and put it into a tub of fresh cold water. To remove the hulls, scrub the corn well with a new stiff brush broom kept for the purpose, changing the water often. Put through half a dozen or more waters, and then take the corn out by handfuls, rubbing each well between the hands to loosen the re- maining hulls, and drop again into clear water. Pick out all hulls. Cleanse the corn through several more waters if it is to be dried and kept before using. Well hulled corn is found in the markets. To Cook. — If it is to be cooked at once, it should be parboiled in clear water twice, and then put into new water and cooked till tender. It 104 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. should be nearly or quite dry when done. It may be served with milk or cream. Coarse Hominy. — For coarse hominy use four parts of water or milk and water to one of grain. It is best steamed or cooked in a double boiler, though it may be boiled in a kettle over a slow fire. The only objection to this method is the need of frequent stirring to prevent sticking, which breaks and mashes the hominy. From four to five hours' slow cooking will be necessary, unless the grain has been previously soaked ; then about one hour less will be required. Fine Hominy or Grits. — This preparation is cooked in the same man- ner as the foregoing, using three and one half or four parts of water to one of the grain. Four or five hours will be necessary for cooking the un- soaked grits. Popped Corn. — The small, translucent varieties of maize known as "pop corn," possess the property, when gently roasted, of bursting open, or turning inside out, a process which is owing to the following facts : Corn contains an excess of fatty matter. By proper means this fat can be separated from the grain, and it is then a thick, pale oil. When oils are heated sufficiently in a vessel closed from the air, they are turned into ?as, which occupies many times the bulk of the oil. When pop corn is gradually heated, and made so hot that the oil inside of the kernel turns \o gas, being unable to escape through the hull of the kernel, the pressure finally becomes strong enough to burst the grain, and the explosion is so violent as to shatter it in a most curious manner. Popped corn forms an excellent food, the starch of the grain being well cooked. It should, however, be eaten in connection with other food at mealtime, and not as a delicacy between meals. Ground pop corn is considered a delectable dish eaten with milk or cream ; it also forms the base of several excellent puddings. To pop the corn, shell and place in a wire "popper" over a bed of bright coals, or on the top of a hot stove; stir or shake continuously, so that each kernel may be subjected to the same degree of heat on all sides, until it begins to burst open. If a popper is not attainable, a common iron skillet covered tightly, and very lightly oiled on the bottom, may be used for the purpose. The corn must be very dry to begin with, and if good, nearly every kernel will pop open nicely. It should be used within twenty-four hours after popping. THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. 10$ MACARONI. Description. — Macaroni is a product of wheat prepared from a hard, clean, glutenous grain. The grain is ground into a meal called semolina, from which the bran is excluded. This is made into a pasty dough by mixing with hot water in the pro- portion of two thirds semolina to one third water. The dough after being thoroughly mixed is put into a shallow vat and kneaded and rolled by machinery. When well rolled, it is made to assume various shapes by being forced by a powerful plunger through the perforated head of strong steel or iron cylinders arranged above a fire, so that the dough is partially baked as it issues from the holes. It is afterwards hung over rods or laid upon frames covered with cloth, and dried. It is called by different names according to its shape. If in the shape of large, hollow cylinders, it is macaroni ; if smaller in diameter, it is spaghetti; if fine, vermicelli; if the paste is cut into fancy patterns, it is termed pasta d' Italia. Macaroni was formerly made only in Italy, but at present is manufactured to a considerable extent in the United States. The product, however, is in general greatly inferior to that im- ported from Italy, owing to the difference in the character of the wheat from which it is made, the Italian macaroni being produced from a hard, semi-translucent wheat, rich in nitroge- nous elements, and which is only grown successfully in a hot climate. Like all cereal foods, macaroni should be kept in a perfectly dry storeroom. To Select Macaroni. — Good macaroni will keep in good condition for years. It is rough, elastic, and hard ; while the inferior article is smooth, soft, breaks easily, becomes moldy with keeping. Inferior macaroni contains a large percentage of starch, and but a small amount of gluten. When put into hot water, it assumes a white, pasty appearance, and splits in cooking. Good macaroni when put into hot water absorbs a portion of the water, swells to nearly double its size, but per- fectly retains its shape. Inferior macaroni is usually sold a few cents cheaper per pound than the genuine article. It contains lo6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCllEN. a much smaller amount of gluten. The best quality of any shape one pleases can be bought in most markets for ten or fifteen cents a pound. To Prepare and Cook Macaroni. — Do not wash maca- roni. If dusty, wipe with a clean, dry cloth. Break into pieces of convenient size. Always put to cook in boiling salted water, using eight parts of water to one of macaroni, and cook until tender. The length of time required may vary from twenty minutes, if fresh, to one hour, if stale. When tender, turn into a colander and drain, and pour cold water through it to prevent the tubes from sticking together. The fluid used for cooking may be water, milk, or a mixture of both ; also soup stock, tomato juice, or any preferred ^quid. Macaroni serves as an important adjunct in the making of various soups, and also forms the basis of other palatable dishes. RECIPES. Home-Made Macaroni. — To four cupfuls of flour, add one egg well beaten, and enough water to make a dough that can be rolled. Roll thin on a bread board and cut in strips. Dry in tlie sun. The best arrange- ment for this purpose is a wooden frame to which a square of cheese- cloth has been tightly tacked, upon which the macaroni may be laid in such a way as not to touch, and afterwards covered with cheese-cloth to keep off the dust during the drying. Macaroni with Egg Sauce.— Break sticks of macaroni into pieces about an inch in length, sufficient to fill a large cup ; put it into boiling water and cook until tender. When done, drain thoroughly, then add a pint of milk, part cream if it can be afforded, a little salt, and one well-beaten egg or the yolks of two ; stir over the fire until it thickens, and serve hot. Macaroni with Cream Sauce. — Cook the macaroni as directed in the preceding, and serve with a cream sauce prepared by heating a scant pint of rich milk to boiling, in a double boiler. When boiling, add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, rubbed smooth in a little milk and one fourth tea- spoonful of salt. If desired, the sauce may be flavored by steeping in the milk before thickening for ten or fifteen minutes, a slice of onion or a few 6its of celery, and then removing with a fork. Macaroni with Tomato Sance. — Break macaroni into inch lengths, enough to make one cup, and drop into boiling water. Let it boil until perfectly tender. In the meantime prepare the sauce by rubbing a pint of THE CEREALS, OR GRAINS. IC7 fctewed or canned tomatoes through a colander to remove all seeds and fragments. Heat to boiling, thicken with a little flour ; a tablespoonful to the pint will be about the requisite proportion. Add a half cup of very thin sweet cream or nut cream and one teaspoonful of salt. Dish the macaroni in individual dishes, and serve with a small quantity of the sauce poured over each dish. Macaroni Baked with Granola.— Break macaroni into pieces about an inch in length sufficient to fill a large cup, and cook until tender in boiling water. When done, drain and put a layer of the macaroni in the bottom of an earthen pudding dish, and sprinkle over it a scant teaspoonful of granola. Add a second and third layer and sprinkle each with granola, using about two tablespoonfuls in all ; then turn over the whole a custard sauce prepared by mixing together a pint of milk or thin nut cream, the well- beaten yolks of two eggs or one whole egg, and a half teaspoonful of salt. Care should be taken to arrange the macaroni in layers loosely, so that the sauce will readily permeate the whole. Bake for a few minutes only, until the custard has well set, and serve. Eggs and Macaroni. — Break macaroni into inch lengths, enough to make one and one fourth cups, and put to cook in boiling water. While the macaroni is cooking, boil the yolks of four eggs until mealy. The whole egg may be used if cooked so the yolks are mealy and the whites simply jellied, not hardened. When the macaroni is done, drain and put a layer of it arranged loosely in the bottom of an earthen pudding dish. Slice the cooked egg yolks, and spread a layer of them over the macaroni. Fill the dish with alternate layers of macaroni and egg, taking care to have the top layer of macaroni. Pour over this a cream sauce prepared as fol- lows: Heat to boiling one pint of milk or nut cream, add three fourths of a teaspoonful of salt and one heaping spoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Cook until thickened, then turn over the macaroni. Sprinkle the top with grated bread crumbs or granola, and brown in a hot oven for eight or ten minutes. Serve hot. Fruit Macaroni. — Cook macaroni as previously directed in water without salt, until tender. Have hot in another dish some fruit pulp made of cooked and sweetened blueberries, equal parts of grape pulp and stewed apple, strawberry, or prune. Add the macaroni, cook together for a few moments, and serve. TABLE TOPICS. Sib Isaac Newton, when writing his great work, "Prlncipla," lived wholly upon a vegetable diet. Robert Collyer once remarked : " One great reason why I never had a really sick day in my life was that as a boy I lived on oatmeal and milk and brown bread, potatoes and a bit of meat when I could get it, and then oatmeal again." Hot-Weather Diet. — The sultry period of our summer, although compara- tively slight and of short duration, is nevertheless felt by some persons to be ex- tremely oppressive, but this is mainly due to the practice of eating much animal food or fatty matters, conjoined as it often is with the habit of drinking freely of fluids containing more or less alcoholics. Living on cereals, vegetables, and fruit, and abstaining from alcoholic drinks, the same persons would probably enjoy the tem- perature, and be free from the thirst which is the natural result of consuming needlessly heating food. — Sir Henry Thompson. Mistress (arranging for dinner) — " Did n't the macaroni come from the grocer's, Bridget?" Bridget — " Yis, mum, but oi sint it back. Every won av thim leetle stims wu? impty." Some years since, a great railroad corporation in the West, having occasion to change the gauge of its road throughout a distance of some five hundred miles, employed a force of 3,000 workmen upon the job, who worked from very early in the morning until late at night. Alcoholic drinks were strictly prohibited, but a thin gruel made of oatmeal and water w.-is kept on hand and freely partaken of by the men to quench their thirst. The results were admirable ; not a single workman gave out under the severe strain, and not one lost a day from sickness. Thus this large body of men were kept well and in perfect strength and spirits, and the work was done in considerably less time than that counted on for its completion. In Scotch households oatmeal porridge is as inevitable as breakfast itself, except perhaps on Sundays, as this anecdote will illustrate. A mother and child were passing along a street in Glasgow, when this conversation was overheard : — " What day 's the morn, mither ? " "Sabbath, laddie." " An' will wi hae tea to breakfast, mither ? " " Aye, laddie, gin we 're spared." " An' gin we 're no spared, will we hae parritch i " [108] LTHOUGH the grains form most nutritious and pala- f table dishes when cooked in their unground state, this ill I^Af is not always the most convenient way of making use of them. Mankind from earliest antiquity has sought to give these wonderful products of Nature a more portable and convenient form b}' converting them into what is termed bread, a word derived from the verb irav, to pound, beat, or grind small, indicative of the ancient manner of preparing the grain for making bread. Probably the earliest form of bread was simply the whole grain moistened and then exposed to heat. Afterward, the grains were roasted and ground, or pounded between stones, and unleavened bread was made by mixing this crude flour with water, and baking in the form o{ cakes. Among the many ingenious arrangements used by the ancients for baking this bread, was a sort of portable oven in shape something like a pitcher, in the inside of which a fire was made. When the oven was well heated, a paste made of meal and water was applied to th^ outside. Such bread was [109] I lO SCIENXE IN THE KITCHEN. baked very quickly and taken off in small, thin sheets like wafers. A flat cake was the common form in which most of the bread of olden times was baked ; being too brittle to be cut with a knife, the common mode of dividing it was by break- ing, and hence the expression "breaking bread" so common in Scripture. Various substances have been and are employed for making this needful article. Until the last few decades, barley was the grain most universally used. Chestnuts, ground to a flour, are made into bread in regions where these nuts abound. Quite recently, an immense peanut crop in the Southern States was utilized for bread-making purposes. In ancient times, the Thracians made bread from flour made from the water coltran, a prickly root of triangular form. In Syria, mulberries were dried and ground into flour. Rice, moss, palm tree piths, and starch-producing roots are used by different nationalities in the preparation of bread. In many parts of Sweden, bread is made from dried fish, using one half fish flour and one half barley flour ; and in winter, flour made from the bark of trees is added. Desiccated tomatoes, potatoes, and other vegetables are also mixed with the cereals for bread-making. In India, the lower classes make their bread chiefly from millet. Moss bread is made in Iceland from the reindeer moss, which toward autumn becomes soft, tender, and moist, with a taste like wheat bran. It contains a large quantity of starch, and the Icelanders gather, dry, pulverize it, and thus prepare it for bread-making. The ancient Egyptians often made their bread from equal parts of the whole grain and meal. The breadstuffs most universally used among civilized na- tions at the present time are barley, rye, oats, maize, buck- wheat, rice, and wheat, of which the last has acquired a decided preference. If made in the proper manner and from suitable material, \)read is, of all food substances, the article best fitted for the nourishment of the body, and if need be, can supply the place of all other foods. Good bread does not cloy the appe- tite as do many other articles of food, and the simplest bill of BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. Ill fare which includes light, wholesome bread, is far more satisfy- ing than an elaborate meal without it. Were the tables of our land supplied with good, nutritious, well-baked bread, there would be less desire for cake, pastry, and other indigestible articles, which, under the present system of cookery, are allowed to compensate for the inferior quality and poor preparation of more wholesome foods. Bread has been proverbially styled the " staff of life." In nearly all ancient languages the etymology of the word "bread" signifies all, indicating that the bread of earlier periods was in truth what it should be at the present time, — a staff upon which all the functions of life, might with safety depend. Notwithstanding the important part bread was designed to play in the economy of life, it would be hardly possible to mention another aliment which so universally falls below the standard, either through the manner of its preparation or in the material used. Bread, to answer the requirements of a good, wholesotiie article of food, beside being palatable, must be light, pofous, and friable, so that it can be easily insalivated and digested. It should not contain ingredients which will in any way be injurious if taken into the system, but should contain as many as possible of the elements -of nutrition. Wheat, the substance from which bread is most generally made, contains all the nec- essary food elements in proper proportions to meet the require- ments of nutrition, and bread should also contain them. The flour, however, must be made from the whole grain of the wheat, with the exception of the outer husk. What is ordinarily termed fine flour has a large part of the most nutritive properties of the grain left out, and unless this deficiency is made up by other foods, the use of bread made from such material will leave the most vital tissues of the body poorly nourished, and tend to produce innumerable bad results. People who eat bread made from fine white flour naturally crave the food elements which have been eliminated from the wheat, and are thus led to an excessive consumption 112 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. of meat, and the nerve-starvation and consequent irritability thus induced may also lead to the use of alcoholic drinks. We believe that one of the strongest barriers women could erect against the inroads of intemperance would be to supply the tables of the land with good bread made from flour of the entire wheat. The superiority of bread made from the entire wheat or unbolted meal has been attested by many notable examples in history. In England, under the administration of William Pitt, there was for several years such a scarcity of wheat that to make it hold out longer, a law was passed by Parliament that the army should be supplied with bread made of unbolted flour. This occasioned much murmuring on the part of the soldiers, but nevertheless the health of the army improved so greatly as to be a subject of surprise. The officers and the physicians at last publicly declared that the soldiers had never before been so robust and healthy. According to the eminent Prof. Liebig, whole-wheat bread contains 60 per cent more of the phosphate or bone-forming ma- terial than does meat, and 200 per cent more gluten than white bread. To the lack of these elements in a food so generally used as white flour bread, is undoubtedly due the great preva- lence of early decaying teeth, rickets, and other bone diseases. Indeed, so many are the evils attendant upon a continued use of fine flour bread that we can in a great measure agree with a writer of the last century who says, in a quaint essay still to be seen at the British Museum, that " fine flour, spirituous liq- uors, and strong ale-house beer are the foundations of almost all the poverty and all the evils that affect the labouring part of mankind." Bread made from the entire wheat is looked upon with far more favor than formerly, and it is no longer necessary to use the crude products of the grain for its manufacture, since mod- ern invention has worked such a revolution in milling proc- esses that it is now possible to obtain a fine flour containing all the nutritious elements of the grain. The old-time millstone has been largely superceded by machinery with which the entire I. Oriental Mill. ^^i 3. Syrian Mill. 4. Mexican Mill. ANCIENT METHODS OF GRINDING MEAL. BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. II3 grain may be reduced to fine flour without the loss of any of its valuable properties. To be sure, the manufacture of fine white flour of the old- sort, is still continued, and doubtless will be continued so long as color takes precedence of food value. The improved processes of milling have, however, enabled the millers to utrlize a much larger proportion of the nutritious elements of the grain than formerly, and still preserve that whiteness so pleasing to many consumers. Although it is true that there are brands of white flour which possess a large per- centage of the nutrient properties of the wheat, it is likewise true that flour which contains a// the nutritive elements is not white. Of flours made from the entire grain there are essentially two different varieties, that which is termed unb'olted wheat meal or Graham flour, and that called wheat-berry, whole-wheat, or entire- wheat flour. The principal difference between the two consists in the preliminary treatment of the wheat kernel before reduc- tion, Graham flour containing more or less of the flinty bran, which is wholly innutritions and to a sensitive stomach some- what irritating. In the manufacture of whole or ^«/«>^-wheat flour, the outer, flinty bran is first removed by special machinery, and then the entire grain pulverized, by some approved method, to different grades of fineness. The absence of the indigestible bran renders the entire-wheat flour superior in this respect to Graham, though for many persons the latter is to be preferred. How to Select Flour. — The first requisite in the making of good bread is good flour. The quality of a brand of flour will of course depend much upon the kind of grain from which it is prepared — whether new or old, perfect, or deteriorated by rust, mold, or exposure, and also upon the thoroughness with which it has been cleansed from dust, chaff", and all foreign substances, as well as upon the method by which it is ground. It is not possible to judge with regard to all these particulars by the appearance of the flour, but in general, good flour will be sweet, dry, and, free from any sour or musty smell or taste. Take up a handful, and if it falls from the hand light and elas- tic, it is pretty sure to be good. If it will retain the imprint 8 114 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. of the fingers and falls in a compact mass, or is damp, clammy, or sticky to the touch, it is by no means the best. Wet and knead a little of it between the fingers ; if it works soft and sticky, it is poor. Good flour, when made into dough, is elas- tic, and will retain its shape. This elastic property of good flour is due to the gluten which it contains. The more gluten and the stronger it is, the better is the flour. The gluten of good flour will swell to several times its original bulk, while that of poor flour will not. In buying white flour, do not select that which is pure white with a bluish tinge, but that which is of a creamy, yellowish-white tint. While the kinds of flour that contain the entire nutritive properties of the wheat will necessarily be darker in color, we would caution the reader not to suppose that because flour is dark in color it is for that reason good, and rich in nutritive elements. There are many other causes from which flour may be dark, such as the use of uncleansed or dark varieties of wheat, and the large admixture of bran and other grains ; many unscrupulous millers and flour dealers make use of this fact to palm off" upon their unsuspecting cus- tomers an inferior article. Much of the so-called Graham flour is nothing more than poor flour mixed with bran, and is in every way inferior to good white flour. Fine flour made from the entire wheat may generally be distinguished from a spu- rious article by taking a small portion into the mouth and chewing it. Raw flour made from the entire grain has a sweet taste, and a rich, nutty flavor the same as that experienced in chewing a whole grain of wheat, and produces a goodly quan- tity of gum or gluten, while a spurious article tastes flat and insipid like starch, or has a bitter, pungent taste consequent upon the presence of impurities. This bitter taste is noticeable in bread made from such flour. A given quantity of poor flour will not make as much bread as the same quantity of good flour, so that adulteration may also be detected in this way. Doubtless much of the prejudice against the use of whole- wheat flour has arisen from the use of a spurious article. BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. I IS As it is not always possible to determine accurately with- out the aid of chemistry and a microscope whether flour is genuine, the only safe way is to purchase the product of reli- able mills. It is always best to obtain a small quantityof flour first, and put it to the test of bread-making ; then, if satisfactory, purchase that brand so long as it proves good. It is true economy to buy a flour known to be good even though it may cost more than some others. It is not wise to purchase too large a quantity at once unless one has exceptionally good facilities for storage, as flour is subject to many deteriorating influences. It is estimated that a barrel of good flour contains sufficient bread material to last one person one year ; and from this standard it can be easily estimated in what proportion it is best to purchase. To Keep Flour. — Flour should always be kept in a tight receptacle, and in a warm, dry, well-ventilated place. It should not be allowed to remain in close proximity to any substances of strong odor, as it very readily absorbs odors and gaseous im- purities. A damp atmosphere will cause it to absorb moisture, and as a result the gluten will lose some of its tenacity and be- come sticky, and bread made from the flour will be coarser and inferior in quality. Flour which has absorbed dampness from any cause should be sifted into a large tray, spread out thin and exposed to the hot sun, or placed in a warming oven for a few hours. Deleterious Adulterations of Flour, — Besides the fraud frequently practiced of compounding whole-wheat flour from inferior mill products, white flour is sometimes adulterated — more commonly, however, in European countries than in this — with such substances as alum, ground rice, plaster of Paris, and whiting. Alum is doubtless the most commonly used of all these substances, for the reason that it gives the bread a whiter color and causes the flour to absorb and retain a larger amount of water than it would otherwise hold. This enables the user to make, from an inferior brand of flour, bread which Il6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. resembles that made from a better quality. Such adulteration is exceedingly injurious, as are other mineral substances used for a similar purpose. The presence of alum in flour or bread may be detected in the following way : Macerate a half slice of bread in three or four tablespoonfuls of water ; strain off the water, and add to it twenty drops of a strong solution of logwood, made either from the fresh chips or the extract. Then add a large teaspoonful of a strong solution of carbonate of ammonium. If alum is present, the mixture will change from pink to lavender blue. The Journal of Trade gives the following simple mode of testing for this adulterant : " Persons can test the bread they buy for themselves, by taking a piece of it and soaking it in water. Take this water and mix it with an equal part of fresh milk, and if the bread contains alum, the mixture will coagulate. If a better test is required, boil the mixture, and it will form a perfect clot." Whiting can be detected by dipping the ends of the thumb and forefinger in sweet oil and rubbing the flour between them. If whiting is present, the flour will become sticky like putty, and remain white ; whereas pure flour, when so rubbed, be- comes darker in color, but not sticky. Plaster of Paris, chalk, and other alkaline adulterants may be detected by a few drops of lemon juice : if either be present, effervescence will take place. Chemistry of Bread=Making. — Good flour alone will not insure good bread. As much depends upon its preparation as upon the selection of material ; for the very best of flour may be transformed into the poorest of bread through improper or careless preparation. Good bread cannot be produced at ran- dom. It is not the fruit of any luck or chance, but the prac- tical result of certain fixed laws and principles to which all may conform. The first step in the conversion of flour into bread is to incorporate with it a given amount of fluid, by which each atom of flour is surrounded with a thin film of moisture, in order to hyJrate the starch, to dissolve the sugar and albumen, and to BREADSTUFF3 AND BREAt)-MAlClNG. II/ develop the adhesiveness of the gluten, thus binding the whole into one coherent mass termed dough, a word from a verb meaning to wet or moisten. If nothing more be done, and this simple form of dough be baked, the starch granules will be ruptured by the heat and thus properly prepared for food ; but the moistening will have developed the glue-like property of the gluten to the extent of firmly cementing the particles of flour together, so that the mass will be hard and tough, and almost incapable of mastication. If, however, the dough be thoroughly kneaded, rolled very thin, made into small cakes, and then quickly baked with sufficient heat, the result will be a brittle kind of bread termed unleavened bread, which, although it requires a lengthy process of mastication, is more wholesome and digestible than soft bread, which is likely to be swallowed insufficiently insalivated. The gluten of wheat flour, beside being adhesive, is likewise remarkably elastic. This is the reason why wheat flour is much more easily made into light bread than the product of other cereals which contain less or a different quality of gluten. Now if while the atoms of flour are supplied with moisture, they are likewise supplied with some form of gaseous sub- stance, the elastic walls of the gluten cells will become dis- tended, causing the dough to " rise," or grow in bulk, and at the same time become light, or porous, in texture. This making of bread light is usually accomplished by the introduction of air into the dough, or by carbonic acid gas generated within the mass, either before or during the baking, by a fermentative or chemical process. When air is the agency used, the gluten, by its glue-like properties, catches and retains the air for a short period ; and if heat is applied before the air, which is lighter than the dough, rises and escapes, it will expand, and in expanding distend the elastic glutinous mass, causing it to puff up or rise. If the heat is sufficient to harden the gluten quickly, so that the air cells throughout the whole mass become firmly fixed before the air escapes, the result will be a light, porous bread. If the heat is not sufficient, the air does not properly expand ; n8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. or if before a sufficient crust is formed to retain the air and form a framework of support for the dough, the heat is less- ened or withdrawn, the air will escape, or contract to its former volume, allowing the distended glutinous cell walls to collapse ; in either case the bread will be heavy. If carbonic acid gas, generated within the dough by means of fermentation or by the use of chemical substances, be the means used to lighten the mass, the gluten by virtue of its tenacity holds the bubbles of gas as they are generated, and prevents the large and small ones from uniting, or from rising to the surface, as they seek to do, being lighter than the dough. Being thus caught where they are generated, and the proper conditions supplied to expand them, they swell or raise the dough, which is then termed a loaf. (This word " loaf" is from the Anglo-Saxon hlifian, to raise or lift up.) The structure is rendered permanent by the application of heat in baking. BREAD MADE LIGHT BY FERMENTATION. For general use, the most convenient form of bread is usually considered to be that made from wheat flour, raised or made light by some method of fermentation, although in point of nutritive value and healthfulness, it does not equal light, unfermented, or aerated bread made without the aid of chemicals. The Process of Fermentation. — Fermentation is a proc- ess of decomposition, and hence more or less destructive to the substances subjected to its influence. When animal and vege- table substances containing large amounts of nitrogenous ele- ments are in a moist state and exposed to air, they very soon undergo a change, the result of which is decomposition or decay. This is occasioned by the action of germs, which feed upon nitrogenous substances, as do the various species of fungi. Meat, eggs, milk, and other foods rich in nitrogenous elements can be preserved but a short time if exposed to the atmos- phere. The carbonaceous elements are different in this re- spect. When pure starch, sugar, or fat is exposed to the air BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. II9 in a moistened state, they exhibit very little tendency to change or decay. Yet if placed in contact with decompos- ing substances containing nitrogen, they soon begin to change, and are themselves decomposed and destroyed. This com- munication of the condition of change from one class of sub- stances to another, is termed fermentation. If a fermenting substance be added to a watery solution containing sugar, the sugar will be changed or decomposed, and two new sub- stances, alcohol and carbonic acid gas, are produced. The different stages of fermentation are known scientifically as alcoholic, acetous, and putrefactive. The first is the name given to the change which takes place in the saccharine matter of the dough, which results in the formation of alcohol and carbonic acid gas. This same change takes place in the sac- charine matter of fruits under the proper conditions of warmth, air, and moisture, and is utilized in the production of wines and fermented liquors. In bread-making, the alcohol and carbonic acid gas produced during the fermentation, are formed from sugar, — that originally contained in the flour and the additional quantity formed from starch during the fermenting process. It is evident, therefore, that bread cannot be fermented without some loss in natural sweetness and nutritive value, and bread made after this method should be managed so as to deteriorate the material as little as possible. If this fermentation continues long enough, the acetous fermentation is set up, and acetic acid, the essential element of vinegar, is formed, and the dough becomes sour. If the process of fermentation is very much prolonged, the putrefactive change is set up, and the gluten is more or less decomposed. If the dough be baked during the alcoholic and carbonic- acid stage of fermentation, the gas will render the loaf light and porous. The alcohol will be dissipated by the heat during the baking, or evaporated shortly afterward, provided the baking be thorough. If the fermentation is allowed to proceed until the acetous fermentation has begun, the loaf, when baked, will be "sad" and heavy, since there is no longer any gas to puff it up. 120 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. If, however, during the first or alcoholic stage of fermentation, new material be added, the same kind of fermentation will con- tinue for a certain period longer. These facts serve to show that great care and attention are necessary to produce good bread by a fermentative process. If the fermentation has not been allowed to proceed far enough to generate a sufficient amount of gas to permeate the whole mass, the result will be a heavy loaf; and if allowed to pro- ceed too far, acid fermentation begins, the gas escapes, and we have sour as well as heavy bread. It is not enough, however, to prevent bread from reaching the acetous or sour stage offer- mentation. Bread maybe over-fermented when there is no ap- preciable sourness developed. Fermentation may be carried so far as to destroy much of the richness and sweetness of the loaf, and yet be arrested by the baking process just before the acetous stage begins, so that it will be light and porous, but de- cidedly lacking in flavor and substance. Over-fermentation also develops in the bread various bitter substances which obscure the natural sweetness of the bread and give to it an unpleasant flavor. Many of these substances are more or less harmful in character, and include many poisons known as ptomaines, a class of chemical compounds produced by germs whenever fermentation or decomposition of organic matter takes place. Much skill is required to determine at what point to arrest the fermentation, in order to save the sweetness and richness of the bread. Fermentative Agents. — Fermentation in vegetable mat- ter is always accompanied by the growth of living organisms. The development of these minute organisms is the exciting cause of fermentation and putrefaction. The germs or spores of some of these fermenting agents are always present in the air. It is well known to housekeepers that if a batter of flour and water and a little salt be kept in a jar of water at a tem- perature of from 100° to iio°, it will ferment in the course of five or six hours. Scientists assure us that this fermentation is occasioned by the introduction of the spores of certain species of fungi which are continually floating in the atmosphere, and BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. I2l the proper conditions of warmth and moisture being supplied, they at once begin to grow and multiply. This method of se- curing fermentation is utilized by housewives in making what is termed salt-rising bread. The raising of dough by this proc- ess is lengthy and uncertain, and a far more convenient method is to accelerate the fermentation by the addition of some active ferment. The ancient method of accomplishing this was by adding to the dough a leaven, a portion of old dough which had been kept until it had begun to ferment ; but since the investigations of modern chemistry have made clear the properties of yeast, that has come to be considered the best agent for setting up the process of alcoholic fermentation in bread. The use of leaven is still practiced somewhat in some European countries. The bread produced with leaven, al- though light and spongy in texture, has an unpleasant, sour taste, and is much less wholesome than that produced with fresh yeast. Yeast is a collection of living organisms or plants belonging to the family of fungi, which, like all other plants, require warmth, moisture, %nd food, in order to promote growth, and when properly supplied with these, they begin to grow and multi- ply rapidly. Fermentation will not take place at a temperature below 30°, it proceeds slowly at 45", but from 70° to 90° it goes on rapidly. Fermentation may be arrested by the ex- haustion of either the fermenting agent or the food supply, or by exposure to heat at the temperature of boiling water. This latter fact enables the housewife to arrest the process of fer- mentation, when the loaf has become sufficiently light, by baking it in a hot oven. Heat destroys most of the yeast cells ; a few, however, remain in the loaf unchanged, and it is for this reason that yeast bread is considered less wholesome for dyspeptics than light unleavened bread. It is apparent, then, that the more thoroughly fermented bread is baked, the more whole- some it will be, from the more complete destruction of the yeast germs which it contains. Yeast. — Next to good flour, the most important requisite in the manufacture of fermented bread is good yeast. The best 122 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. of flour used in conjunction with poor yeast will not produce good bread. The most convenient and reliable kind of mar- ketable yeast, when fresh, is the compressed yeast. The dry yeast cakes sold at the stores are less to be recommended ; for, though they are always ready for use, the quality of the bread they produce is generally inferior to that made with either compressed yeast or good liquid yeast. If this sort of yeast must be depended upon, the cakes known as "Yeast Foam'' are the best of any with which we are acquainted. Of homemade yeasts there are almost as many varieties as there are cooks. Their comparative value depends mainly upon the length of time they will keep good, or the facility with which they can be prepared. Essentially the same prin- ciples are involved in the making of them all ; viz., the intro- duction of a small quantity of fresh, lively yeast into a mixture of some form of starch (obtained from flour, potato, or a com- bination of both) and water, with or without the addition of such other substances as will promote fermentation, or aid in preventing the yeast from souring. Under proper conditions of warmth, the small amount of original yeast begins to supply itself with food at once by converting the starch into dextrine, and then into grape sugar, and multiplies itself with great rapidity, and will continue to do so as long as there is material to supply it with the means of growth. While its growth is rapid, its decay is equally so ; and unless some means of preser- vation be employed, the yeast will die, and the mixture become sour and foul. Ordinarily it can be kept good for several days, and under the best conditions, even three or four weeks. After it has been kept from four to six hours, it should be placed in some receptacle as nearly air-tight as possible and set in the cellar or refrigerator, where it can be kept at a temperature not conducive to fermentation. Thus the little yeast organisms will remain in a quiescent state, but yet alive and cipable of multiplying themselves when again surrounded with favorable conditions. The yeast should be kept in glass or glazed earthen ware. The vessel containing it should be washed and scalded with BREADSTUFF'S AND BREAD-MAKING. 12^ scrupulous care before new yeast is put in, since the smallest particle of sour or spoiled yeast will ruin the fresh supply in a very short time. It is generally conceded that yeast will keep longer if the material of which it is made be mixed with liquid of a boiling temperature, or cooked for a few minutes at boiling heat before adding the yeast. The reason for this undoubtedly lies in the fact that the boiling kills foreign germs, and thus pre- vents early souring or putrefaction. The yeast must not be added, however, until the liquid has cooled to a little more than blood heat, as too great heat will kill the yeast cells. The starch of the potato is thought to furnish better mate- rial for the promotion of yeast growth than that of wheat flour ; but whether the potato be first cooked, mashed, and then com- bined with the other ingredients, or grated raw and then cooked in boiling water, makes little difference so far as results are concerned, though the latter method may have the advan- tage of taking less time. If potatoes are used for this purpose, they should be perfectly mature. New ones will not answer. Sugar assists in promoting the growth of the yeast plant, and a small amount is usually employed in making yeast. Hops serve to prevent the yeast from souring, and an infusion of them is frequently used for this purpose. While it is essential that the water used should be boiling, it is also necessary that the mixture should cool to a lukewarm temperature before the introduction of the original yeast, as intense heat will kill the yeast plant. Freezing cold will like- wise produce the same result. While a cool temperature is one of the requisites for keeping yeast fresh, care must be taken, especially in winter, that it does not get chilled. When yeast is needed for bread, it is always the best plan to take a cup to the cellar or refrigerator for the desired quan- tity, and re-cover the jar as quickly as possible. A half hour in a hot kitchen would be quite likely to spoil it. Always shake or stir the whole well before measuring out the yeast. In making yeast, use earthen bowls for mixing, porcelain-lined or granite-ware utensils for boiling, and silver or wooden spoons for stirring. 124 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Bitter Yeast. — It sometimes happens that an excessive use of hops in the malcing of yeast gives to it so bitter a flavor as to communicate a disagreeable taste to the bread. To cor- rect this bitterness, mix with the yeast a considerable quantity of water, and let it stand for some hours, when the thickest portion will have settled at the bottom. The water, which will have extracted much of the bitterness, can then be turned off and thrown away. Yeast also sometimes becomes bitter from long keeping. Freshly burnt charcoal thrown into the yeast is said to absorb the odors and offensive matter and render the yeast more sweet ; however, we do not recommend the use of any yeast so stale as to need sweetening or purify- ing. Yeast that is new and fresh is always best ; old and stale yeast, even though it may still possess the property of raising the dough, will give an unpleasant taste to the bread, and is much less wholesome. Tests for Yeast. — Liquid yeast, when good, is light in color and looks foamy and effervescent ; it has a pungent odor somewhat similar to weak ammonia, and if tasted will have a sharp, biting flavor. Yeast is poor when it looks dull and watery, and has a sour odor. Compressed yeast, if good, breaks off dry and looks white ; if poor, it appears moist and stringy. If there is any question as to the quality of yeast, it is always best to test it before use by adding a little flour to a small quantity and setting it in a warm place. If it begins to ferment in the course of fifteen or twenty minutes, it is good. Starting the Bread.— Having secured good yeast, it is nec- essary in some way to diffuse it throughout the bread material so that it will set up an active fermentation, which, by the evolution of gas, will render the whole mass light and porous. As fermentation is more sure, more rapid, and requires less yeast to start it when set in action in a thin mixture than when introduced into stiff dough, the more common method of start- ing fermented bread is by " setting a sponge ; " viz., preparing a batter of flour and liquid, to which potato is sometimes added, and into which the yeast is introduced. Some cooks, in mak- BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 125 ing the batter, use the whole amount of liquid needed for the bread, and as the sponge rises, add flour in small quantities, beating it back, and allowing it to rise a second, third, or even fourth time, until sufficient flour has been added to knead ; others use only half the liquid in preparing the sponge, and when it has well risen, prepare a second one by adding the remainder of the liquid and fresh flour, in which case the fer- mented batter acts as a double portion of yeast and raises the second sponge very quickly. The requisite amount of flour is then added, the dough kneaded, and the whole allowed to rise a third time in the loaf. Other cooks dispense altogether with the sponge, adding to the liquid at first the requisite amount of flour, kneading it thoroughly and allowing it to rise once in mass and again after molding into loaves. As to the superiority of one method over another, much depends upon their adaptability to the time and convenience of the user ; light bread can be produced by either method. Less yeast but more time will be required when the bread is started with a sponge. The end to be attained by all is a complete and equal diffusion of gas bub- bles generated during fermentation throughout the whole mass of dough. The preferable method of combining the materials needed for the batter is by first mingling the yeast with the water or milk. If condensed or dry yeast is used, previously dissolve it well in a half cupful or less of lukewarm water. Stir the flour slowly into the liquid mixture, and beat it very thoroughly so that the yeast shall be evenly distributed throughout the whole. Proportion of Materials Needed. — The material needed for making the bread should all be carefully measured out be- forehand and the flour well sifted. Many housekeepers fail in producing good bread, because they guess at the quantity of material to be used, particularly the flour, and with the same quantity of liquid will one time use much more flour than at another, thus making the results exceedingly variable. With the same brand of flour, the same quantity should always be used to produce a given amount of bread. This amount will de- 126 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. pend upon the quality of the material used. Good flour will absorb a larger quantity of liquid than that of an inferior quality, and the amount of liquid a given quantity of flour will take up de- termines the quantity of bread that can be produced from it. This amount is chiefly dependent upon the proportion of gluten contained in the flour. One hundred pounds of good flour will absorb sufficient water to produce one hundred and fifty pounds of bread. One reason why bread retains so much water is that during the baking a portion of starch is converted into gum, which holds water more strongly than starch. Again : the gluten, when wet, is not easily dried, while the dry crust which forms around the bread in baking is nearly impervious to water, and, like the skin of a baking potato, prevents the moisture from escaping. Kinds of flour vary so considerably in respect to their ab- sorbent properties that it is not possible to state the exact proportions of flour and liquid required ; approximately, three heaping measures of flour for one scant measure of liquid, in- cluding the yeast, will in general be found a good proportion. Bread made from the entire wheat will require from one half to one cupful less flour than that made of white flour. A quart of liquid, including the yeast, is sufficient for three ordinary-sized loaves. One half or two thirds of a cup of homemade yeasty according to its strength, or one half a cake of compressed yeast dissolved in a half cup of lukewarm water, will be suffi-- cient for one quart of liquid. It is a common mistake to use too much yeast. It lessens the time required, but the result is less satisfactory. Bread to be set over night requires less yeast. Whether water or milk should be used for bread-making, depends upon taste and convenience. Bread retains more nearly the natural flavor of the grain if made with water, and is less apt to sour ; at the same time, bread made with milk is more tender than that made with water. Bread made with milk requires from one half to one cupful less of flour. Potatoes are sometimes used in conjunction with flour for bread-making. They are by no means necessary when good BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 127 flour is used, but bread made from inferior flour is improved by their use. Only potatoes that are fully matured should be used for this purpose, and they should be well cooked and smoothly mashed. Neither sugar nor salt is essential for the production of good bread, though most cook books recommend the use of one or both. The proportion of the former should not exceed one even tablespoonful to three pints of flour, and the very smallest amount of salt, never more than a half tea- spoonful, and better less. No butter or other free fat is re- quired ; the tenderness of texture produced by its use can be secured as well by the use of unskimmed milk and thorough kneading. Utensils. — For bread-making purposes, earthen or china ware is preferable to either tin or wooden utensils : being a poor conductor, it pro- tects the sponge from the cold air much more effectually than tin, and is much more easily kept clean and sweet than wood. The utensil should be kept exclusively for the purpose of bread-making, and should never be allowed to contain any sour substance. The bowl should be thoroughly scalded before and after each using. Use silver or granite-ware spoons for stirring the bread. Iron and tin discolor the sponge. For measuring the material, particularly the liquid and the yeast, half-pint cups, divided by marks into thirds and fourths, as shown in the cut, are especially serviceable. When to Set the Sponge. — The time to set the sponge for bread-making is a point each housekeeper must determine for herself. The fact before stated, that temperature controls the activity of fermentation, and that it is retarded or accel- erated according to the conditions of warmth, enables the housewife, by keeping the bread-mixture at a temperature of about 50° F., to set her bread in the evening, if desired, and find it light and ready for further attention in the morning. Measuring Cup. Measuring Cup. 128 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. In winter, the sponge will need to be prepared early in the evening and kept during the night at as even a temperature as possible. A good way to accomplish this is to cover the bowl with a clean napkin and afterwards wrap it about very closely with several folds of a woolen blanket. In extremely cold weather bottles of hot water may be placed around the bowl outside the wrappings. In case this plan is employed, care must be taken to have sufficient wrappings between the bread and the bottles to prevent undue heat, and the bottles should be covered with an additional blanket to aid in retain- ing the heat as long as possible. If the sponge is set in the evening, if in very warm weather, it should be started as late as practicable, and left in a rather cool place. Cover closely to exclude the air, but do not wrap in flannel as in winter. It will be likely to need atten- tion early in the morning. Temperature for Bread-Making. — Except in very warm weather, the ferment or sponge should be started with liquid at a lukewarm temperature. The liquid should never be so cold as to chill the yeast. Milk, if used, should be first sterilized by scalding, and then cooled before using. After the sponge is prepared, the greatest care must be taken to keep it at an equable temperature. From 70° to 90° is the best range of temperature, 75° being considered the golden mean throughout the entire fermentative process of bread-making. After fermentation has well begun, it will continue, but much more slowly if the temperature be gradually lowered to 45° or 50°. If it is necessary to hasten the rising, the tempera- ture can be raised to 80° or 85°, but it will necessitate careful watching, as it will be liable to over-ferment, and become sour. Cold arrests the process of fermentation, while too great heat carries forward the work too rapidly. Too much stress cannot be laid upon the importance of an equable temperature. The housewife who permits the fermentation to proceed very slowly one hour, forces it rapidly by increased heat the next, and per- BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 1 29 haps allows it to subside to a chilling temperature the third, will never be sure of good bread. Putting the bowl containing the sponge into a dish of warm (not hot) water, or keeping it in the warming oven, or on the back of the range, are all methods which may bring about good results, provided the same degree of heat can be maintained continuously ; but if the fire is one which must be increased or diminished to suit the exigencies of household details, nothing but the closest and most careful attention will keep the sponge at uniform temperature. The better way is to cover the bowl with a napkin, and in cold weather wrap closely in several thicknesses of flannel, and place on a stand behind the stove, or in some warm place not exposed to draughts. A bread- raiser purposely arranged for keeping the bread at proper tem- perature is a great convenience. Two small and rather thick earthen ware crocks of the same size, serve very well for this purpose. Scald both with hot water, and while still warm, put the sponge in one, invert the other one for a cover, and leave in a warm room. All flour used in the bread should be warm when added. Lightness of the Bread. — The time required for bread in its different stages to grow light will vary according to the quantity and strength of the yeast used and the amount of warmth supplied. A thin batter is light enough when in ap- pearance it resembles throughout a mass of sea foam. It will not greatly increase in bulk, but will be in a state of constant activity, sending up little bubbles of gas and emitting a sharp, pungent odor like fresh yeast. When the thicker batter or second sponge is sufficiently light, it will have risen to nearly double its original bulk ancj become cracked over the top like "crazed" china. It should never be allowed to rise to the point of sinking or caving in, and should be kneaded as soon as ready. If for any reason it is not possible to knead the bread at once when it has arrived at this stage, do not allow it to stand, but take a knife or spoon and gently beat it back a little. This dissipates some of the gas and reduces the volume somewhat. Let it rise again, 9 130 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. which it will do in a short time, if it has not been allowed to become too light. If dough that has been kneaded and allowed to rise in mass, becomes sufficiently light at some in- opportune moment for shaping into loaves, it may be kept from becoming too light and souring, by taking a knife and cutting it away from the sides of the bowl and gradually working it over toward the center. Re-cover and put in a warm place. It will soon assume its former bulk. This "cutting down" may be repeated several times if necessary, provided the bread has not been allowed to become too light at any time, and some cooks recommend it as a uniform practice. We do not, how- ever, except in case of necessity ; since, though it may possibly make the bread more light, the long-continued fermenta- tion destroys more than is necessary of the food elements of the flour, and develops an unnecessary amount of the products of fermentation. Lightness is not the only requisite for bread, and should be secured with as little deterioration of the flour as possible. An important point in the preparation of bread is to decide when it is sufficiently light after having been molded and placed in pans. The length of time cannot be given, because it will vary with the temperature, the quality of the flour, and the quantity added during the kneading. At a temperature of 75°, an hour or an hour and a half is about the average length of time needed. A loaf should nearly double its size after being placed in a pan, before baking ; when perfectly risen, the bread feels light when lifted and weighed upon the hand. It is better to begin the baking before it has perfectly risen than to wait until it has become so light as to commence to fall, since if the fermentation proceeds too far, the sweetness of the grain will be destroyed, and the bread will be tasteless and innutritious, even if it does not reach the acetous stage. The exercise of a little judgment and- careful attention to detail will soon enable a person successfully to determine the proper degree of lightness of bread in its various stages. Bread which passes the extreme point of fermentation, or in common phrase gets " too light," will have a strong acid odor, and will BREAD DOUGH AFTER AND BEF( iKE FERMEXTA TRiN. FERMENTED BREADS. BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 131 pull away from the bowl in a stringy mass, having a watery appearance very different from the fine, spongy texture of properly risen dough. The acidity of such dough may be neutralized by the addition of an alkali, and housewives who through carelessness and inattention have allowed their bread to become " sour," often resort to saleratus or soda to neutral- ize the acid. The result of such treatment is unwholesome bread, wholly unfit for food. It is better economy to throw away bread material which needs to be sweetened with soda than to run the risk of injury to health by using it. Kneading the Dough. — As fresh flour is added during the bread-making, it is necessary to mix it in thoroughly. As long as the batter is thin, this can be done by thoroughly beating the mixture with the addition of material ; but when it is a thick dough, some other method must be adopted to bring about- the desired result. The usual way is by mixing the dough to a proper consistency, and working it with the hands. This is termed kneading. Much of the excellence of bread de- pends upon the thoroughness of this kneading, since if the yeast is not intimately and equally mixed with every particle of flour, the fermentation will not proceed evenly, and the porosity of the bread will not be uniform ; some portions will be heavy and compact, while others will be full of large, open cavities, from the excessive liberation of gas. The length of time required for kneading depends upon the perfection with which the yeast cells have been previously dif- fused throughout the sponge, and upon the quality of the flour used in preparing the bread, much less time being required for kneading dough made from good flour. Some consider an hour none too long to knead bread. Such a lengthy process may be advantageous, since one of the objects of kneading is to render the glutinous parts of the flour so elastic that the dough may be capable of expanding to several times its bulk without cracking or breaking, but excellent results can be obtained from good flour with less labor. Bread has been kneaded all that is necessary when it will work clean of the board, and when, after a smart blow with the fist in the center of the mass, 132 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. it will spring back to its original shape like an India rubber ball. Its elasticity is the surest test of its goodness ; and when dough has been thus perfectly kneaded, it can be molded into any shape, rolled, twisted, or braided with ease. Chopping, cutting, stretching, and pulling the dough are other methods for accomplishing the same end. If a large mass is to be kneaded, it is better to divide it- into several portions and knead each separately. It is less laborious and more likely to result in an equal diffusion of the yeast. Bread is often spoiled by the addition of too much flour during kneading. Dough should always be kneaded as soft as it can be handled, and only sufficient flour added to prevent its stick- ing to the board. Stiff bread is close in texture, and after a day or two becomes dry and hard. HoT\r to Manipulate the Dough in Kneading. — Sprinkle the board well with flour, and scrape the dough from the bowl with a knife. Dust the hands with flour, and then draw the dough with a rolling motion from the farthest side toward you, using the finger tips for the purpose, but pressing firmly down upon the mass with the palm of the hands. Reach forward again with the finger tips, and again press the ball of the hands upon the dough. Continue this process of manipulation until the mass is very much elongated ; then turn at right angles and repeat the process, taking care that the finger tips do not break through the light film which will form upon the outside of soft dough when well managed. Keep the dough constantly in motion until it is smooth, elastic, and fine-grained. The hands and the board may need a light dusting of flour at fre- quent intervals. If the dough sticks, lift it quickly, and clean the board, that it may be kept smooth. The dough will not stick if kept in constant motion. Do not rub off little wads of dough either from the hands or the board and keep kneading them into the loaf; they will seriously injure the uniform text- ure of the bread. How Many Times Shall Bread be Kneaded? — As the objects to be attained in kneading dough are to render the KNEADING FERMENTED BREAD DOL'flH. BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. I33 gluten more elastic and thoroughly to diffuse the yeast, it will be seen that there has been sufficient kneading when all the flour necessary for the bread has been added. Further- more, it must be apparent that continued manipulation of the dough at this stage will dissipate and press out the little vesi- cles of gas held in place by the elastic gluten, and thus lose in part what so much pains has been taken to secure. At what- ever stage the requisite amount of flour be added, the dough should then be thoroughly kneaded once for all. If allowed to rise in bulk, when light it should be shaped into loaves with the greatest care, handled lightly, and worked as little as pos- sible, and if at all diminished, allowed to rise again before baking. Dryness of the Surface. — Bread in all stages should be covered over the top, since it rises much more evenly, and does not have a stiff, dried surface, as when placed in a warm place exposed to air. It sometimes happens that this precaution is forgotten or not sufficiently attended to, and a dry crust forms over the dough, which, if kneaded into the loaves, leaves hard, dry spots in the bread. In case of such a mishap, take the dry crust off, dissolve it in a little warm water, add flour enough to mold, make it into a small loaf, and raise it separately. Size of Loaves. — The lightness of the bread after baking depends upon the' perfection with which the little air-cells, formed during the fermenting process, have become fixed by the heat during the baking. The heat expands the carbonic acid gas contained within the open spaces in the dough, and at the same time checks further development of gas by de- stroying the yeast plant. The sooner, then, that the cells can be made permanent after the arrest of fermentation, the more light and porous the bread will be. Although this fixing of the cells is largely dependent upon the degree of heat main- tained, it likewise in a measure depends upon the size of the loaf, as the heat will penetrate and fix the cells of a small loaf throughout much sooner than those of a large one. Therefore, bake in small loaves, and have a separate pan for each, as that 134 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. admits of an equal degree of heat to all sides. This aids in a more rapid fixing of the air-cells and likewise gives more crust, which is the sweetest and most digestible part of the bread. Sheet-iron pans, about eight inches in length, four in width, and five in depth, are the most satisfactory. After the dough is molded, divide it into loaves which will fill such pans to the depth of two inches. Let them rise until double their first vol- ume, and then put into the oven. In baking, the loaves will rise still higher, and if about five inches high when done, will have expanded to about the right proportions. Proper Temperature of the Oven. — The objects to be attained in the baking of bread are to break up the starch and gluten cells of the flour so as to make them easily digesti- ble, to destroy the yeast plant, and render permanent the cells formed by the action of the carbonic acid gas. To accomplish well these ends, the loaf must be surrounded by a temperature ranging from 400° to 600°. The oven should be one in which the heat is equal in all parts, and which can be kept at a steady, uniform heat. Old-fashioned brick ovens were superior in this respect to most modern ranges. The fire for baking bread should be of sufficient strength to keep the oven heated for at least an hour. If the oven has a tendency to become too hot upon the bottom, a thin, open grate, broiler, or toasting rack, should be placed underneath the tins to allow a circulation of air and avoid danger of burning. If the heat be insufficient, fermentation will not cease until the bread has become sour ; the cells will be imperfectly fixed or entirely collapsed ; too little of the moisture will have evaporated, and the result will be a soft, wet, and pasty or sour loaf. If the heat be too great, the bread will be baked before it has perfectly risen, or a thick, burned crust will be produced, forming a non-conducting cover- ing to the loaf, which will prevent the heat from permeating the interior, and thus the loaf will have an overdone exterior, but BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 1 35 will be raw and doughy within. If, however, the temperature of the oven be just right, the loaf will continue for a little time to enlarge, owing to the expansion of the carbonic acid gas, the conversion of the water into steam, and the vaporizing of the alcohol, which rises in a gaseous form and is driven off by the heat ; a nicely browned crust will be formed over the surface, the result of the rapid evaporation of water from the surface and consequent consolidation of the dpugh of this portion of the loaf, and a chemical change caused by the action of the heat upon the starch by which it is converted into dextrine, finally assuming a brown color due to the production of a sub- stance known to the chemist as assama. Bread is often spoiled in the baking. The dough may be made of the best of flour and yeast, mixed and kneaded in the most perfect manner, and may have risen to the proper degree of lightness before going to the oven, yet if the oven is either too hot or not hot enough, the bread will be of an inferior quality. Without an oven thermometer, there is no accurate means of determining the temperature of the oven ; but housekeepers resort to various means to form a judgment about it. The baker's old-fashioned method is to throw a handful of flour on the oven bottom. If it blackens without igniting, the heat is deemed sufficient. Since the object for which the heat is de- sired is to cook the flour, not to burn it, it might be supposed that this would indicate too high a temperature ; but the flour within the loaf to be baked is combined with a certain amount of moisture, thee vaporation of which lowers the temperature of the bread considerably below that of the surrounding heated atmosphere. The temperature of the inner portion of the loaf cannot exceed 212° so long as it continues moist. Bread might be perfectly cooked at this temperature by steam, but it would lack that most digestible portion of the loaf, the crust. A common way of ascertaining if the heat of the oven is sufficient, is to hold the bare arm inside it for a few seconds. If the arm cannot be held withiirwhile thirty is counted, it is too hot to begin with. The following test is more accurate : 136 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. For rolls, the oven should be hot enough to brown a teaspoon- ful of flour in one minute, and for loaves \wfive minutes. The temperature should be high enough to arrest the fer- mentation, which it will do at a point considerably below the boiling point of water, and at the same time to form a shell or crust, which will so support the dough as to prevent it from sinking or collapsing when the evolution of carbonic acid gas shall cease ; but it should not be hot enough to brown the crust within ten or fifteen minutes. The heat should increase for the first fifteen minutes, remain steady for the next fifteen minutes, and may then gradually decrease during the remain- der of the baking. If by any mischance the oven be so hot as to brown the crust too soon, cover the loaf with a clean paper for a few minutes. Be careful that no draught reaches the bread while baking ; open the oven door very seldom, and not at all for the first ten minutes. If it is necessary to turn the loaf, try to do so without bringing it to the air. From three fourths of an hour to an hour is usually a sufficient length of time to bake an ordinary sized loaf Be careful not to remove the bread from the oven until perfectly done. It is better to allow it to bake ten minutes too long than not long enough. The crust of bread, when done, should be equally browned all over. The common test for well-baked bread is to tap it on the bottom with the firger; if it is light and well done, it will sound hollow ; heavy bread will have a dull sound. A thor- oughly baked loaf will not burn the hand when lifted upon it from the pan. Care of Bread after Baking. — When done, remove the loaves from the tins, and tilt them upon edge so that the air may circulate freely on all sides of them to prevent " sweat- ing." Do not, however, lay them on a pine shelf or table to absorb the odor of the wood. A large tin dripping pan turned over upon the table does very well to tilt them on, if they are turned often, so that they will not soften on one side, but a fine wire bread cooler is the best thing. If this is not obtainable, a BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 1 37 fair substitute can be easily improvised by tacking window- screen wire to a light frame of sufficient size to hold the requi- site number of loaves. If the bread is left exposed to the air until cold, the crust will be crisp ; if a soft crust is desired, it can be secured by brushing the top of the loaf while hot, with tepid water, and covering with several thicknesses of a clean bread cloth. If by accident any portion of the crust is burnt, grate it away as soon as cold ; this is preferable to cutting or clipping it off. Best Method of Keeping Bread. — When the bread is quite cold, put it away in a bread box, which should be of tin, or of wood lined with tin, convenient in form and supplied with a well-fitting cover. Never use an unlined wooden box of any kind, as it cannot easily be kept fresh and free from musty odors, which bread so readily absorbs. Stone and earthen ware are not open to this objection, but they are likely to collect moisture, and hence are not equal to a tin receptacle. Do not keep bread in the cellar or any other damp place, nor in a close closet, where there are other foods from which it can absorb odors. The bread box should be kept well covered, and free from crumbs and stale bits. It should be carefully washed in boiling soapsuds, scalded, and dried, every two or three days. If cloths are used to wrap or cover the bread, they too should be washed and scalded every week, and oftener if at any time the loaf about which they are wrapped becomes moldy or musty. Test of Good Fermented Bread. — A loaf of good bread, well risen and perfectly baked, may be taken in the hands, and, with the thumb on the top crust and fingers upon the bottom of the loaf, pressed to less than half its thickness, and when the pressure is removed, it will immediately expand like a sponge, to its former proportions. Good yeast bread, while it should be firm and preserve a certain amount of moisture, will, when cold, crumble easily when rubbed between the fingers. If, instead, it forms a close, ^3^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. soggy mass, it may be regarded as indigestible. This is one reason why hot, new yeast bread and biscuit are so indigesti- ble. In demonstration of this, take a small lump of new bread, gently roll it into a ball, and put into a glass of water, adding a similar quantity of stale bread of the same kind also. The lat- ter will crumble away very soon, while the former will retain its form for hours, reminding one of its condition in the stomach, "as hard as a bullet," for a long time resisting the action of the gastric juice, although, meanwhile, the yeast germs which have not been killed in the oven are converting the mass into a lump of yeast, by which the whole contents of the stomach are soured. A soluble article like salt or sugar in iine powdered form is much more easily and quickly dissolved than the same article in solid lumps, and so it is with food. The apparent dryness of stale bread is not caused by loss of its moisture ; for if care- fully weighed, stale bread will be found to contain almost ex- actly the same proportion of water as new bread that has become cold. The moisture has only passed into a state of concealment, as may be demonstrated by subjecting a stale loaf inclosed in a tightly-sealed receptacle to a temperature equal to boiling heat in an oven for half an hour, when it will again have the appearance of new bread. Hot bread eaten with butter is still more unwholesome, for the reason that the melted grease fills up the pores of the bread, and further interferes with the action of the digestive fluids. Whole= Wheat and Graham Breads. — The same general principles are involved in the making af bread with whole- wheat and Graham flours as in the production of bread from white flour. Good material and good care are absolutely es- sential. Whole-wheat flour ferments more readily and rises more quickly than does white flour, hence bread made with it needs more careful management, as it is more liable to sour. The novice in bread-making should not undertake the preparation of bread with whole-wheat flour, until she has thoroughly mastered all the details of the art by practical experience, and can produce a perfect loaf from white flour. BREADSTUFFS AND SREAD-MAKING. 139 Breads from whole-wheat and Graham flours require less yeast and less flour than bread prepared from white flour. A slower process of fermentation is also advantageous. Such breads will be lighter if at least one third white flour be employed in their manufacture. When the bread is made with a sponge, this white flour may be utilized for the purpose. Thus the length of time the whole-wheat flour will be under- going fermentation will be somewhat lessened, and its liability to become sour diminished. This plan is a preferable one for beginners in bread-making. Graham and whole-wheat flour breads must be kneaded longer than white-flour bread, and require a hotter oven at first and a longer time for baking. Much Graham and whole- wheat bread is served insufficiently baked, probably owing to the fact that, being dark in color, the crust appears brown very soon, thus deluding the cook into supposing that the loaf is well baked. For thorough baking, from one to one and a half hours are needed, according to the size of the loaf and the heat of the oven. Toast. — Toasting, if properly done, renders bread more digestible, the starch being converted into achroodextrine by the process ; but by the ordinary method of preparing toast, that of simply browning each side, only the surfaces of the slices are really toasted, while from the action of the heat upon the interior of the slice, it is rendered exactly in the con- dition of new bread, and consequently quite as indigestible. If butter is added while the toast is hot, we have all the dys- pepsia-producing elements of new bread and butter combined. Although considered to be the dish par excellence for invalids, nothing could be more unwholesome than such toast. To properly toast the bread, the drying and browning should ex- tend throughout the entire thickness of the slice. Bread may be thus toasted before an open fire, but the process would be such a lengthy and troublesome one, it is far better to secure the same results by browning the bread in a moderate oven. Such toast is sometimes called zwieback (twice baked), and when prepared from good whole-wheat bread, is one of the 140 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. most nourishing and digestible of foods. Directions for its preparation and use will be found in the chapter on " Breakfast Dishes." Steamed Bread. — Steaming stale bread is as open to objection as the surface toasting of bread, if steamed so as to be yielding and adhesive. It is not, perhapr, as unwholesome as new bread, but bread is best eaten in a condition dry and hard enough to require chewing, that its starch may be so changed by the action of the saliva as to be easily digested. LIQUID YEAST. RECIPES. Eaw Potato Teast. — Mix one fourth of a cup of flour, the same of white sugar, and a teaspoonful of salt to a paste with a little water. Pare three medium-sized, fresh, and sound potatoes, and grate them as rapidly as pos- sible into the paste ; mix all quickly together with a silver spoon, then pour three pints of boiling water slowly over the mixture, stirring well at the same time. If this does not rupture the starch cells of the flour and potatoes so that the mixture becomes thickened to the consistency of starch, turn it into a granite-ware kettle and boil up for a minute, stirring well to keep it from sticking and burning. If it becomes too much thick- ened, add a little more boiling water. It is impossible to give the exact amount of water, since the quality of the flour will vary, and likewise the size of the potatoes ; but three pints is an approximate proportion. Strain the mixture through a fine colander into an earthen bread bowl, and let it cool. When lukewarm, add one cup of good, lively yeast. Cover with a napkin, and keep in a moderately warm place for several hours, or until it ceases to ferment. As it begins to ferment, stir it well occasionally, and when well fermented, turn into a clean glass or earthen jar. The next morning cover closely, and put in the cellar or refrigerator, not, however, in contact with the fee. It is best to reserve enough for the first baking in some smaller jar, so that the larger portion need not be opened so soon. Always shake the yeast before using. Eaw Potato Teast No. 2. — This is made in the same manner as the preceding, with this exception, that one fourth of a cup of loose hops tied in a clean muslin bag, is boiled in the water for five minutes before pour- ing it into the potato and flour mixture. Many think the addition of the hops aids in keeping the yeast sweet for a longer period. But potato yeast may be kept sweet for two weeks without hops, if well cared for, BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 14I and is preferred by those who dislike the peculiar flavor of ths bread made from hop yeast. Hop Yeast. — Put half a cup of loose hops, or an eighth of an ounce of the pressed hops (put up by the Shakers and sold by druggists), into a granite-ware kettle ; pour over it a quart of boiling water, and simmer about five minutes. Meanwhile stir to a smooth paste in a tin basin or another saucepan, a cup of flour, and a little cold water. Line a colander with a thin cloth, and strain the boiling infusion of hops through it onto the flour paste, stirring continually. Boil this thin starch a few minutes, until it thickens, stirring constantly that no lumps be formed. Turn it into a large earthen bowl, add a tablespoonful of salt and two of white sugar, and when it has cooled to blood heat, add one half cup of lively yeast, stirring all well together. Cover the bowl with a napkin, and let it stand in some moderately warm place twenty-four hours, or until it ceases to ferment or send up bubbles, beating back occasionally as it rises ; then put into a wide-mouthed glass or earthen jar, which has been previously scalded and dried, cover closely, and set in a cool place. Yeast made in this manner will keep sweet for two weeks in summer and longer in winter. Boiled Potato Teast. — Peel four large potatoes, and put them to boil in two quarts of cold water. Tie two loose handfuls of hops securely in a piece of muslin, and place in the water to boil with the potatoes. When the potatoes are tender, remove them with a perforated skimmer, leaving the water still boiling. Mash them, and work in four tablespoonfuls of flour and two of sugar. Over this mixture pour gradually the boiling hop infusion, stirring constantly, that it may form a smooth paste, and set it aside to cool. When lukewarm, add a gill of lively yeast, and proceed as in the preceding recipe. Boiled Potato Teast No. 2. — Take one heaping cupful of smoothly mashed, mealy potato. (Tie a bunch of hops, about the size of a hickory- nut, in a piece of cheese-cloth, and boil in the water with the potatoes. The yeast will be lighter if the potatoes are boiled with the skins on and pealed just before washing.) Add to it one teaspoonful of salt, three tea- spoonfuls of sugar, three fourths of a cup of water in which the potatoes and hops were boiled, and one cake of Yeast Foam, dissolved in one fourth of a cup of warm water, or one half cup of the hop water and one half cup of lively yeast. Turn into a glass can, and keep moderately warm until full of bubbles, then put in a cool place. Raisin Yeast. — Cover a cup of raisins with water, and keep warm until fermentation takes place. Then prepare a solution of starch and water as directed in any of the foregoing recipes, using this fermenting liquor in the place of seed yeast. 142 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. FERMENTED BREADS. In the preparation of breads after the following recipes, the measure of flour should be heaping, unless otherwise stated. RECIF>ES. Milk Bread with 'White Flour. — Scald and cool one pint of unskimmed milk. Add to the milk when lukewarm, one fourth of a cup, or three tablespoonfuls, of liquid yeast, and three cups of flour. Give the batter a vigorous beating, turn it into a clean bread bowl or small earthen crock, cover, and let it rise over night. In the morning, when well risen, add two or three cupfuls of warm flour, or sufficient to knead. Knead well until the dough is sufficiently elastic to rebound when struck forcibly with the fist. Allow it to rise again in mass ; then shape into loaves ; place in pans ; let it stand until light, and bake. If undesirable to set the bread over night, an additional tablespoonful or two of yeast may be used, to facilitate the rising. Vienna Bread. — Into a pint of milk sterilized by scalding, turn a cup and a half of boiling water. When lukewarm, add one half cup of warm water, in which has been dissolved a cake of compressed yeast, and a quart of white flour. Beat the batter thus made very thoroughly, and allow it to rise for one hour ; then add white flour until the dough is of a consistency to knead. Knead well, and allow it to rise again for about three hours, or until very light. Shape into four loaves, handling lightly. Let it rise again in the pans, and bake. During the baking, wash the tops of the loaves with a sponge dipped in milk, to glaze them. Water Bread. —Dissolve a tablespoonful of sugar in a pint of boiling water. When lukewarm, add one fourth of a cupful of liquid yeast, and sufficient flour to make a batter thick enough to drop from the spoon. Beat vigorously for ten minutes, turn into a clean, well-scalded bread bowl, cover (wrapping in a blanket if in cold weather), and let it rise over night. In the morning, when well risen, add flour to knead. Knead well for half an hour, cover, and let it become light in mass. When light, shape into loaves, allow it to rise again, and bake. Fruit Roll. — Take some bread dough prepared as for Milk Bread, which has been sufficiently kneaded and is ready to mold, and roll to about one inch in thickness. Spread over it some dates which have been washed, dried, and stoned, raisins, currants, or chopped figs. Roll it up tightly into a loaf. Let it rise until very light, and bake. Fruit Loaf. — Set a sponge with one pint of rich milk, one fourth cup of yeast, and a pint of flour, over night. In the morning, add two cups of BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. I43 Zante currants, one cup of sugar, and three cups of flour, or enough to make a rather stiff dough. Knead well, and set to rise ; when light, mold into loaves ; let it rise again, and bake. Potato Bread. — Cook and mash perfectly smooth, potatoes to make a cupful. Add a teaspoonful of best white sugar, one cup and a half of warm water, and when the mixture is lukewarm, one half cup of yeast, prepared as directed for Boiled Potato Yeast No. 2, and flour to make a very thick batter. Allow it to rise over night. In the morning, add a pint of warm water and flour enough to knead. The dough will need to be considerably stiffer than when no potato is used, or the result will be a bread too moist for easy digestion. Knead well. Let it rise, mold into four loaves, and when again light, bake. Pulled Bread. — Remove a loaf from the oven when about half baked, and lightly pull the partially set dough into pieces of irregular shape, about half the size of one's fist. Do not smooth or mold the pieces ; the rougher the shape the better. Place them on perforated tins, and bake in a slow oven until browned and crisp throughout. Wliol6= Wheat Bread. — Take one pint of warm water, one teaspoonful of sugar, one level quart of whole-wheat flour, one and one fourth level pints of any good spring wheat flour, three tablespoonfuls of soft yeast or one half a cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in three tablespoonfuls of cold (vater. Put the yeast and sugar into the warm water, add the white flour, beating well. Wrap in a thick blanket and let rise until foamy. When light, add one half teaspoonful of salt, if desired, and the whole-wheat flour, warm. The dough should be very stiff. Knead well for twenty minutes, and return to the bowl (which has been washed and oiled). When risen to double its size, form into two loaves, place in brick-shaped pans, and let rise until very light. Then put into a very hot oven. After ten or fifteen minutes, lower the temperature of the ovep, and bake from three fourths to one and one fourth hours, according to the heat of the oven. Whole-Wheat Bread No. 2. — Scald one pint of unskimmed milk ; when lukewarm, add one half cup of liquid yeast, or one fourth cake of com- pressed yeast, dissolved in one half cup of warm water, and a pint of Pills- bury's best white flour. Beat this batter thoroughly, and allow it to rise. When well risen, add three and two thirds cups of wheat berry flour. Knead thoroughly, and allow it to become hght in mass ; then shape into two loaves, allow it to rise again, and bake. Mis8 B.'s One-Rising Bread. — Sift and measure three and three fourths (about seven level) cups of whole-wheat flour. Scald and cool a pint of unskimmed milk. When lukewarm, add three tablespoonfuls of lively liquid yeast and one teaspoonful of sugar. By slow degrees add the flour, beating vigorously until too stiff to use a spoon, then kn^^d thoroughly fpt 144 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. half an hour, shape into a loaf, place in a bread pan, cover with a napkin in warm weather, wrap well with blankets in cold weather, and let rise over night. In the morning, when perfectly light, bake in a well-heated oven. Potato Bread with Whole-Wheat Flour. — Take a half gill of liquid yeast made as for Boiled Potato Yeast No. 2, and add milk, sterilized and cooled to lukewarm, to make a pint. Add one cup of well-mashed, mealy potato and one cup of white flour, or enough to make a rather thick bat- ter. Beat thoroughly, cover, and set to rise. When well risen, add sufficient whole-wheat flour to knead. The quantity will vary somewhat with the brand of flour used, but about four and one fourth cupfuls will in general be needed. Knead well, let it rise in mass and again in the loaf, and bake. Bye Bread. — Prepare a sponge over night with white flour as for Water Bread. In the morning, when light, add another tablespoonful of sugar, and rye flour to knead. Proceed as directed for the Water Bread, taking care to use only enough rye flour to make the dough just stiffs enough to mold. Use white flour for dusting the kneading board, as the rye flour is sticky. Graham Bread. — Take two tablespoonfuls of lively liquid yeast, or a little less than one fourth cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in a little milk, and add new milk, scalded and cooled to lukewarm, to make one pint. Add one pint of white flour, beat very thoroughly, and set to rise. When very light, add three and one half cupfuls of sifted Graham flour, or enough to make a dough that can be molded. Knead well for half an hour. Place in a clean, slightly oiled bread bowl, cover, and allow it to rise. When light, shape into a loaf ; allow it to rise again, and bake. Graham Bread No. 2. — Mix well one pint of white and two pints of best Graham flour. Prepare a batter with a scant pint of milk, scalded and cooled, two tablespoonfuls of liquid yeast, or a little less than one fourth of a cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of milk, and a portion of the mixed flour. Give it a vigorous beating, and put in a warm place to rise. When well risen, add more flour to make a dough sufficiently stiff to knead. There will be some variation in the amount required, dependent upon the brands of flour used, but in gen- eral, two and one half pints of the flour will be enough for preparing the sponge and kneading the dough. Knead thoroughly for twenty-five or thirty minutes. Put into a clean and slightly oiled bread bowl, cover, and set to rise again. When double its first bulk, mold into a loaf ; allow it to rise again, and bake. Graham Bread No. 3. — Mix three pounds each of Graham and Minn- esota spring wheat flour. Make a sponge of one and a half pints of warm water, one half cake compressed yeast, well dissolved in the wa- BREADSTUFFS AND LREAD-MAKING. I45 ter, and flour to form a batter. Let this rise. When well risen, add one and a half pints more of warm water, one half cupful of New Or- leans molasses, and sufficient flour to knead. Work the bread thor- oughly, allow it to rise in mass ; then mold, place in pans, and let it rise again. The amount of material given is sufficient for four loaves of bread. Baised Biscuit. — These may be made from dough prepared by any of the preceding recipes for bread. They will be more tender if made with milk, and if the dough is prepared expressly for biscuits, one third cream may be used. When the dough has been thoroughly kneaded the last time, divide into small, equal-sized pieces. A quantity of dough sufficient for one loaf of bread should be divided into twelve or sixteen such por- tions. Shape into smooth, round biscuits, fit closely into a shallow pan, and let them rise until very light. Biscuit should be allowed to become lighter than bread before putting in the oven, since, being so much smaller, fermentation is arrested much sooner, and they do not rise as much in the oven as does bread. Bolls. — Well kneaded and risen bread dough is made into a variety of small forms termed rolls, by rolling with the hands or with a rolling-pin, and afterward cutting or folding into any shape desired, the particular manner by which they are folded and shaped giving to the rolls their characteristic names. Dough prepared with rich milk or part cream makes the best rolls. It may be divided into small, irregular portions, about one inch in thickness, and shaped by taking each piece separately in the left hand, then with the thumb and first finger of the right hand, slightly stretch one of the points of the piece and draw it over the left thumb toward the center of the roll, holding it there with the left thumb. Turn the dough and repeat the operation until you have been all around the dough, and each point has been drawn in ; then place on the pan to rise. Allow the rolls to become very light, and bake. Rolls prepared in this manner are termed Imperial Rolls, and if the folding has been properly done, when well baked they will be composed of a succession of light layers, which can be readily separated. French Rolls may be made by shaping each portion of dough into small oval rolls quite tapering at each end, allowing them to become light, and baking far enough apart so that one will not touch another. If, when the dough is light and ready to shape, it be rolled on the board until about one eighth of an inch in thickness, and cut into five-inch squares, then divided through the center into triangles, rolled up, be- ginning with the wide side, and placed in the pan to rise in semicircular shape, the rolls are called Crescents. What are termed Parker House Rolls may be made from well-risen dough prepared with milk, rolled upon the board to a uniform thickness of 146 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. about one-fourth inch ; cut into round or oval shapes with a cutter ; folded, one third over the other two thirds ; allowed to rise until very light, and baked. The light, rolled dough may be formed into a Braid by cutting into strips six inches in length and one in width, joining the ends of each three, and braiding. The heat of the oven should be somewhat greater for rolls and biscuit than for bread. The time required will depend upon the heat and the size of the roll, but it will seldom exceed one half hour. Neither rolls nor bis- cuit should be eaten hot, as they are then open to the same objections as other new yeast bread. Brown Bread.^To one and one fourth cups of new milk which has b.een scalded and cooled, add one level teaspoonful of salt, one fourth of a cup of lively yeast, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one cup each of white flour, rye flour or sifted rye meal, and yellow corn meal. With different brands of flour there may need to be some variation in the quantity of liquid to be used. The mixture should be thick enough to shape. Allow it to rise until light and cracked over the top ; put into a bread pan, and when again well risen, bake for an hour and a half or two hours in an oven sufficiently hot at first to arrest fermentation and fix the bread cells, afterwards allow- ing the heat to diminish somewhat, to permit a slower and longer baking, Graham flour may be used in place of rye, if preferred. Date Bread. — Take a pint of light white bread sponge prepared with milk, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and Graham flour to make a very stiff batter. Add last a cupful of stoned dates. Turn into a bread pan. Let it rise, and bake. Fruit Loaf Tcith Graham and Wliole-Wlieat Flour. — Dissolve one fourth cake of compressed yeast in a pint of sterilized milk ; add a pint of white flour ; beat thoroughly, and set to rise. When well risen, add three and one fourth cups of flour (Graham and whole-wheat, equal proportions, thoroughly mixed), or sufficient to knead. Knead well for half an hour, and just at the last add a cup of raisins, well washed, dried, and dusted with flour. Let the loaf rise in mass ; then shape, put in the pan, allow it to become light again, and bake. Balsed Corn Bread. — Into two cupfuls of hot mush made from white granular corn meal, stir two cupfuls of cold water. Beat well, and add one half cup of liquid yeast, or one half cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in one half cup of warm water, and two teaspoonfuls of granulated sugar. Stir in white or sifted Graham flour to make it stiff enough to knead. Knead very thoroughly, and put in a warm place to rise. When light, mold into three loaves, put into pans, and allow it to rise again. When well risen, bake at least for three fourths of an hour. BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 147 Com Cake. — Sterilize a cupful of rich milk or thin cream. Cool to lukewarm, and dissolve in it half a cake of compressed yeast. Add two small cupfuls of white flour ; beat very thoroughly, and put in a warm place to rise. When light, add a cup of lukewarm water or milk, and two cups of best yellow corn meal. Turn into a shallow square pan, and leave until again well risen. Bake in a quick oven. A tablespoonful of sugar may be added with the corn meal, if desired. Oatmeal Bread. — Mix a quart of well-cooked oatmeal mush with a pint of water, beating it perfectly smooth ; add a cupful of liquid yeast and flour to make a stiff batter. Cover, and let it rise. When light, add sufficient flour to mold ; knead as soft as possible, for twenty or thirty minutes ; shape into four or more loaves, let it rise again, and bake. Milk Teast Bread. — Prepare the yeast the day before by scalding three teaspoonfuls of fresh corn meal (the old-fashioned meal is better than the granular) with boiling new milk. Beat it well, and set in a warm place until light. When light, there will be a crackling sound, as the point of a spoon is put into it. Then put in a cool place, until needed for use. Start the bread by making a rather thick batter with one half cupful of quite warm water, one teaspoonful each of sugar and the prepared yeast, and white flour. Beat well, and put in a warm place to rise. When it be- gins to look light, take a quart of flour in your bread bowl and pour over it one cup of scalding, not boiling, water ; then without stirring, pour on another cup of tepid water. Mix very lightly with the flour, adding more flour, if necessary, to make a moderately thick batter. Pour in the rising, and mix lightly with a spoon, stirring very little. Cover the top of the sponge with warm flour. Cover the bowl well, and set where the heat will be even all around. When light, add half a teaspoonful of salt, if desired, and warm flour to make a soft dough. Knead lightly and very little on a warm molding board. Put into two pans, cover the top of the loaves well, and again set in a warm place. When well risen, place carefully in a moderate oven, and bake from three fourths of an hour to an hour. Grraham Salt-Bistng Bread. — Put two tablespoonf uls of milk into a half-pint cup, add boiling water to fill the cup half full, one half teaspoon- ful of sugar, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, and white flour to make a rather stiff batter. Let it rise over night. In the morning, when well risen, add a cup and a half of warm water, or milk scalded and cooled, and sufficient white flour to form a rather stiff batter. Cover, and allow it to rise again. When light, add enough sifted Graham flour to knead. Knead lightly, shape into a loaf ; allow it to become light again in the pan, and bake. All utensils used should be first well sterilized by scalding in hot sal-soda water. 143 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. UNFERMENTED BREADS. The earliest forms of bread were made without fermenta- tion. Grain was broken as fine as possible by pounding on smooth stones, made into dough with pure water, thoroughly kneaded, and baked in some convenient way. Such was the " unleavened bread " or " passover cakes " of the Israelites. In many countries this bread is the only kind used. Unleavened m Si. Alexican Woman Making Tortillas. bread made from barley and oats is largely used by the Irish and Scotch peasantry. In Sweden an unleavened bread is made of rye meal and water, flavored with anise seed, and baked in large, thin cakes, a foot or more in diameter. Some savage tribes subsist chiefly upon excellent corn bread, made simply of meal and water. Unleavened bread made of corn, called tortillas, forms the staple diet of the Mexi- can Indians. The corn, previously softened by soaking in lime water, is ground to a fine paste between a stone slab and roller called a metate, then patted and tossed from hand to BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 149 hand until flattened into thin, wafer-like cakes, and baked over a quick fire, on a thin iron plate or a flat stone. Unquestionably, unleavened bread, well kneaded and prop- erly baked, is the most wholesome of all breads, but harder to masticate than that made light by fermentation, but this is an advantage ; for it insures more thorough mixing with that im- portant digestive agent, the saliva, than is usually given to more easily softened food. What is usually termed unfermented bread, however, is prepared with flour and liquid, to which shortening of some kind is added, and the whole made light by the liberation of gas generated within the dough during the process of baking. This is brought about either by mixing with the flour certain chemical substances, which, when wet and brought into contact, act upon each other so as to set free car- bonic acid gas, which expands and puffs up the loaf; or by intro- ducing into the dough some volatile sub- stance, as carbonate of ammonia, which the heat during baking will cause to vapor- ize, and which in rising produces the same result. Carbonic acid gas may be for this purpose developed by the chemical decomposition of bicarbonate of potassa (saleratus), or bicarbonate of soda, by some acid such as sour milk, hydro- chloric acid, tartaric acid, nitrate of potassa, or the acid phos- phate of lime. The chemical process of bread-raising originally consisted in adding to the dough definite proportions of muriatic acid and carbonate of soda, by the union of which carbonic acid gas and common salt were produced. This process was soon aban- doned, however, on account of the propensity exhibited by the acid for eating holes in the fingers of the baker as well as in his Stone Metate. ISO SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. bread pans ; and the more convenient one for hands and pans, that of using soda or saleratus with cream of tartar or sour milk, was substituted. When there is an excess of soda, a por- tion of it remains in the loaf uncombined, giving to the bread a yellow color and an alkaline taste, and doing mischief to the delicate coating of the stomach. Alkalies, the class of chem- icals to which soda and saleratus belong, when pure and strong, are powerful corrosive poisons. The acid used with the alkali to liberate the carbonic-acid gas in the process of bread-making, if rightly proportioned, destroys this poisonous property, and unites with it to form a nevy compound, which, although not a poison, is yet unwholesome. We can hardly speak too strongly in condemnation of the use of chemicals in bread-making, when we reflect that the majority of housewives who combine sour milk and saleratus, or cream of tartar and soda, more frequently than otherwise guess at the proportions, or measure them by some "rule of thumb," without stopping to consider that although two cups of sour milk may at one time be sufficiently acid to neutralize a teaspoonful of saleratus, milk may vary in degree of acidity to such an extent that the same quantity will be quite insuffi- cient for the purpose at another time ; or that though a tea- spoonful of some brand of cream of tartar will neutralize a half teaspoonful of one kind of soda, similar measures will not always bring about the same result. Very seldom, indeed, will the proportions be sufficiently exact to perfectly neutralize the alkali, since chemicals are subject to variations in degree of strength, both on account of the method by which they are manufactured and the length of time they have been kept, to say nothing of adulterations to which they may have been sub- jected, and which are so common that it is almost impossible to find unadulterated cream of tartar in the market. Baking powders are essentially composed of bicarbonate of soda and cream of tartar, mixed in the proper proportions to exactly neutralize each other, and if they were always pure, would certainly be as good as soda and cream of tartar in any form, and possess the added advantage of perfect proper- BrEAdstUffs and bread-making. 15 1 tions ; but as was demonstrated not long ago by the govern- ment chemist, nearly every variety of baking powder in the market is largely adulterated with cheaper and harmful sub- stances. Alum, a most frequent constituent of such baking powders, is exceedingly injurious to the stomach. Out of several hundred brands of baking powder examined, only one was found pure. Even when in their purest state, these chemicals are not harmless, as is so generally believed. It is a very prevalent idea that when soda is neutralized by an acid, both chemical com- pounds are in some way destroyed or vaporized in the process, and in some occult manner escape from the bread during the process of baking. This is altogether an error. The alkali and acid neutralize each other chemically, but they do not destroy each other. Their union forms a salt, exactly the same as the Rochelle salts of medicine, a mild purgative, and if we could collect it from the bread and weigh or measure it, we would find nearly as much of it as there was of the baking powder in the first place. If two teaspoonfuls of baking powder to the quart of flour be used, we have remaining in the bread made with that amount of flour 165 grains of crystallized Rochelle salts, or 45 grains more than is to be found in a Seidlitz powder. It may be sometimes useful to take a dose of salts, but the daily consumption of such chemical substances in bread can hardly be considered compatible with the conditions necessary for the maintenance of health. These chemical substances are unusable by the system, and must all be removed by the liver and excretory organs, thus imposing upon them an extra and unnecessary burden. It has also been determined by scientific experimentation that the chemicals found in baking powders in bread retard digestion. These substances are, fortunately, not needed for the pro- duction of good light bread. The purpose of their use is the production of a gas ; but air is a gas much more economical and abundant than carbonic-acid gas, and which, when introduced into bread and subjected to heat, has the property of expand- ing, and in so doing, puiifing up the bread and making it 152 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Gem Irons. light. Bread made light with air is vastly superior to that compounded with soda or baking powder, in point of health- fulness, and when well prepared, will equal it in lightness and palatableness. The only difficulty lies in catching and holding the air until it has accomplished the de- sired results. But a thorough un- derstanding of the necessary condi- tions and a little practice will soon enable one to attain sufficient skill in this direction to secure most satisfactory results. General Directions. — All materials used for making aerated bread should be of the very best quality. Poor flour will not produce good bread by this or by any other process. Aerated breads are of two kinds : those baked while in the form of a batter, and such as are made into a dough before baking. All breads, whether fermented or unfermented, are lighter if baked in some small form, and this is particularly true of un- fermented breads made light with air. For this reason, breads made into a dough are best baked in the form of rolls, biscuits, or crackers, and batter breads in small iron cups similar to those in the accompanying illustration. These cups or "gem irons" as they are sometimes called, are to be ob- tained in various shapes and sizes, but for this purpose the more shallow cups are preferable. For baking the dough breads a perforated sheet of Russia iron or heavy tin, which any tinner can make to fit the oven, is the most serviceable, as it permits the hot air free access to all sides of the bread at once. If such is not obtainable, the up- Perforated Sheet Iron Pan for Rolls. BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 153 per oven grate, carefully washed and scoured, may be used. Perforated pie tins also answer very well for this purpose. The heat of the oven for baking should be sufficient to form a slight crust over all sides of the bread before the air escapes, but not sufficient to brown it within the first fifteen minutes. To aid in forming the crust on the sides and bottom of batter breads, the iron cups should be heated previous to introducing Making Unfennented Bread. the batter. The degree of heat required for baking will be about the same as for fermented rolls and biscuit, and the fire should be so arranged as to keep a steady but not greatly increasing heat. Air is incorporated into batter breads by brisk and con- tinuous agitating and beating ; into dough breads by thorough kneading, chopping, or pounding. Whatever the process by which the air is incorporated, it must be continuous. For this reason it is especially essential IS4 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. in making aerated bread that everything be in readiness before commencing to put the bread together. All the materials should be measured out, the utensils to be used in readiness, and the oven properly heated. Success is also dependent upon the dexterity with which the materials when ready are put together. Batter bread often proves a failure although the beating is kept up without cessation, because it is done slowly and carelessly, or interspersed with stirring, thus permitting the air to escape between the strokes. If the bread is to be baked at once, the greater the dispatch with which it can be gotten into a properly-heated oven the lighter it will be. Crackers, rolls, and other forms of dough breads often lack in lightness because they were allowed to stand some time before baking. The same is true of batter breads. If, for any reason, it is necessary to keep such breads for any length of time after being prepared, before baking, set the dish containing them directly on ice. The lightness of aerated bread depends not only upon the amount of air incorporated in its preparation, but also upon the expansion of the air during the baking. The colder the air, the greater will be its expansion upon the application of heat. The colder the materials employed, then, for the bread-making, the colder will be the air confined within it, and the lighter will be the bread. For this reason, in making batter bread, it will be found a good plan, when there is time, to put the materials together, and place the dish containing the mixture on ice for an hour or two, or even over night. When ready to use, beat thoroughly for ten or fifteen minutes to incorporate air, and bake in heated irons. Rolls and other breads made into a dough, may be kneaded and shaped and put upon ice to be- come cold. Thus treated, less kneading is necessary than when prepared to be baked at once. Many of the recipes given for the batter breads include eggs. The yolk is not particularly essential, and if it can be put to other uses, may be left out. The white of an egg, be- cause of its viscous nature, when beaten, serves as a sort of trap to catch and hold air, and added to the bread, aids in making it BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 155 light. Very nice light bread may be made without eggs, but the novice in making aerated breads will, perhaps, find it an advan- tage first to become perfectly familiar with the processes and conditions involved, by using the recipes with eggs before at- tempting those without, which are somewhat more dependent for success upon skill and practice. When egg is used in the bread, less heating of the irons will be necessary, and not so hot an oven as when made without. If the bread, when baked, appears light, but with large holes in the center, it is probable that either the irons or the oven was too hot at first. If the bread after baking, seems sticky or dough-like in the interior, it is an indication that either it was insufficiently baked, or that not enough flour in proportion to the liquid has been used. It should be stated, that although the recipes given have been prepared with the greatest care, and with the same brands of flour, careful measurement, and proper conditions, prove successful every time, yet with differ- ent brands of flour some variation in quantity may be needed, — a trifle more or less, — dependent upon the absorbent properties of the flour, and if eggs are used, upon the size of the eggs. A heavy bread may be the result of the use of poor flour, too much flour, careless or insufficient beating, so that not enough air was incorporated, or an oven not sufficiently hot to form a crust over the bread before the air escaped. Breads made into a dough, if moist and clammy, require more flour or longer baking. Too much flour will make them stiff and hard. The length of time requisite for baking aerated breads made with whole-wheat, wheat berry, or Graham flours, will vary from forty minutes to one hour, according to the kind and form in which the bread is baked, and the heat of the oven. The irons in which batter breads are to be baked should not be smeared with grease ; if necessary to oil them at all, they should only be wiped out lightly with a clean, oiled cloth. Irons well cared for, carefully washed, and occasionally scoured with Sapolio to keep them perfectly smooth, will require no greasing whatever. IS6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. In filling the irons, care should be taken to fill each cup at first as full as it is intended to have it, as the heat of the irons begins the cooking of the batter as soon as it is put in, and an additional quantity added has a tendency to make the breald less light. In most of the following recipes nut cream or nut meal may be substituted for dairy cream or milk, if desired. RECIPES. Whole- Wheat Puffs. — Put the yolk of an egg into a basin, and beat the white in a separate dish to a stiff froth. Add to the yolk, one half a cupful of rather thin sweet cream and one cupful of skim milk. Beat the egg, cream, and milk together until perfectly mingled and foamy with air bubbles ; then add, gradually, beating well at the same time, one pint of wheat berry flour. Continue the beating vigorously and without interrup- tion for eight or ten minutes ; then stir in, lightly, the white of the egg. Do not beat again after the white of the egg is added, but turn at once into heated, shallow irons, and bake for an hour in a moderately quick oven. If properly made and carefully baked, these puffs will be of a fine, even texture throughout, and as light as bread raised by fermentation. Whole- Wheat Pnffs No. 2.— Make a batter by beating together until perfectly smooth the yolk of one egg, one and one half cups of new milk or nut cream, and one pint of whole-wheat flour. Place the dish contain- ing it directly upon ice, and leave for an hour or longer. The bread may be prepared and left on the ice over night, if desired for breakfast. When ready to bake the puffs, whip the white of the egg to a stiff froth, and after vigorously beating the batter, stir it in lightly; turn at once into heated irons, and bake. If preferred, one third white flour and two thirds sifted Graham flour may be used in place of the wheat berry flour. Whole- Wheat Puffs No. 3.— Take one cupful of sweet cream (twelve- hour cream), one half cupful of soft ice water, and two slightly rounded cupfuls of wheat berry flour. Beat the materials well together, and set on ice for an hour or more before using. When ready to bake, beat again vigorously for ten minutes. Graham Puffs. — Beat together until full of air bubbles, one pint of nut cream or unskimmed milk, the yolk of one egg, and one pint and three or four tablespoonfuls of Graham flour, added a little at a time. When the mixture is light and foamy throughout, stir in lightly and evenly the white of the egg, beaten to a stiff froth; turn into heated irons, and bake in a rather quick oven. Instead of all Graham, one third white flour may be used if preferred. Initial Steps, Wliippiug m the Flon- UNKP:KMENTED BATTI'^K liKKAl). BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 157 Graliain Puffs No. 2. — Beat the yolks of two eggs in two cupfuls of ice water ; then add gradually, beating well meantime, three and one fourth cupfuls of Graham flour. Continue the beating, after all the flour is added, until the mixture is light and full of air bubbles. Add last the whites of the eggs, beaten to a.stiff froth, and bake at once in heated irons. Currant Puffs. — Prepare the puffs as directed in any of the foregoing recipes with the addition of one cup of Zante currants which have been well washed, dried, and floured. Graham Gems. — Into two cupfuls of unskimmed milk which has been made very cold by standing on ice, stir gradually, sprinkling it from the hand, three and one fourth cupfuls of Graham flour. Beat vigorously for ten minutes or longer, until the batter is perfectly smooth and full of air bubbles. Turn at once into hissing hot gem irons, and bake in a hot oven. If preferred, the batter may be prepared, and the dish containing it placed on ice for an hour or longer ; then well beaten and baked. Gra- ham gems may be made in this manner with soft water instead of milk, but such, in general, will need a little more flour than when made with milk. With some ovens, it will be found an advantage in baking these gems to place them on the upper grate for the first ten minutes or until the top has been slightly crusted, and then change to the bottom of the oven for the baking. Water Graham Puffs. — Into one cup of very cold water — in which are lumps of ice, if obtainable — beat one egg, a pinch of salt, and two cups of sifted Graham flour. Continue beating until the batter is full of air bub- bles, then drop into warm, not hot, gem-irons, and bake in a rather hot oven about forty-five minutes, or until dry inside. By varying the flour, whole-wheat and corn puffs may also be made. For the corn puffs use one half white flour. A small amount of it may be used in the Graham puffs. Kye Puffs. — Beat together the same as for whole-wheat puffs one cup- ful of milk, one tablespoonful of sugar, and the yolk of an egg. Add one cupful of rye flour, mixed with one half cupful of Graham flour, and stir in the well beaten white of the egg. Bake at once, in heated gem-irons. Eye Puffs No. 2. — Beat together until well mingled one pint of thin cream and the yolk of one egg. Add gradually, beating meanwhile, four cups of rye flour. Continue to beat vigorously for ten minutes, then add the stifBy-beaten white of the egg, and bake in heated irons. Rye Gems. — Mix together one cupful of corn meal and one cupful of rye meal. Stir the mixed meal into one and one half cupfuls of ice water. Beat the batter vigorously for ten or fifteen minutes, then turn into hot irons, and bake. Blueberry Gems. —To one cupful of rich milk add one tablespoonful of sugar, and the yolk of an egg. Beat well till full of air bubbles ; then add 158 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. gradually one cupful of Graham flour, and one cupful of white flour, or white corn meal. Beat vigorously until light ; stir in the beaten whitq of the egg, and one cupful of fresh, sound blueberries. Bake in heated irons, in a moderately quick oven. Chopped sweet or sour apples may be used in place of the berries. Hominy Gems. — Beat one egg until very light, add to it one table- spoonful of thick sweet cream, a little salt, if desired, and two cupfuls of cooked hominy (iine). Thin the mixture with one cupful or less of boiling water until it will form easily, beat well, and bake in heated irons. Sally Lnnn Gems. — Beat together the yolk of one egg, two tablespoon- fuls of sugar, and one cupful of thin, ice-cold, sweet cream. Add slowly, beating at the same time, one cup and two tablespoonfuls of sifted Gra- ham flour. Beat vigorously, until full of air bubbles, add the white of the egg beaten stiffly, and bake in heated irons. Corn Faffs. — Mingle the yolk of one egg with one cup of rich milk. Add one half teaspoonful of salt, one cup of flour, one half cup of fine, yellow corn meal, and one fourth cup of sugar, all of which have previously been well mixed together. Place the batter on ice for an hour, or until very cold. Then beat it vigorously five or ten minutes, till full of air bub- bles ; stir in lightly the stiffly beaten white of the egg, and put at once into heated irons. Bake in a moderately quick oven, thirty or forty minutes. Corn Puffs No. 2. — Scald two cupfuls of fine white corn meal with boiling water. When cold, add three tablespoonfuls of cocoanut cream, one half teaspoonful of salt, and the yolk of one egg. Beat well, and stir in lastly the white of the egg, beaten to a stiff froth. The batter should be sufficiently thin to drop easily from a spoon, but not thin enough to pour. Bake in heated irons, in a moderately quick oven. Corn Pnffs No. 3. — Take one cupful of cold mashed potato, and one cupful of milk, rubbed together through a colander to remove all lumps. Add the yolk of one well beaten egg, and then stir in slowly, beating vigorously meantime, one cupful of good corn meal. Lastly, stir in the white of the egg beaten to a stiff froth, and bake in heated irons, in a rather quick oven. Corn Puffs No. 4. — Blend thoroughly one and one half cupfuls of un- skimmed milk and the yolks of two eggs. Add two cupfuls of flour, and one cupful best granular corn meal. Beat the batter thoroughly ; stir in lightly the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, turn into heated irons, and bake. Nut cream may be used in place of milk. Corn Dodgers. — Scald one cupful of best granular corn meal, with which a tablespoonful of sugar and one fourth of a teaspoonful of salt have been sifted, with one cup of boiling milk. Beat until smooth, drop on a griddle in cakes about one inch thick, and bake slowly one hour. Turn when brown, Cocoanut cream may be used instead of milk, BeatiiiK tlie I'.attL-r. Filling the Irons. \'i liole Wheal I'ull.. UNFERMENTED BATTER BREADS, BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. 159 Corn Dodgers No. 2.— Mix one tablespoonful of sugar and one half of a teaspoonful of salt with two cups best corn meal. Scald with one cup of boiling water. Add rich milk to make a batter thin enough to drop from a spoon — two tablespoonf uls. Lastly, add one egg, yolk and white beaten separately, and bake on a griddle in the oven from three fourths of an hour to one hour. Cream Corn Cakes. — Into one cup of thin cream stir one and one half cups of granular corn meal, or enough to make a stiff batter; add one third of a teaspoonful of salt ; beat well, drop into heated irons, and bake. Hoe Cake. — Scald one pint of white corn meal, with which, if desired, a tablespoonful of sugar, and one half teaspoonful of salt have been mixed, with boiling milk, or water enough to make a batter sufficiently thick not to spread. Drop on a hot griddle, in large or small cakes, as preferred, about one half inch in thickness. Cook slowly, and when well browned on the under side, turn over. The cake may be cooked slowly, until well done throughout, or, as the portion underneath becomes well browned, the first browned crust may be peeled off with a knife, and the cake again turned. As rapidly as a crust becomes formed and browned, one may be removed, and the cake turned, until the whole is all browned. The thin wafer-like crusts are excellent served with hot milk or cream. Oatmeal Gems. — To one cupful of well-cooked oatmeal add one half cupful of rich milk or thin cream, and the yolk of one egg. Beat all to- gether thoroughly ; then add, continuing to beat, one and one third cup- fuls of Graham flour, and lastly the stiffly beaten white of the egg. Bake in heated irons. If preferred, one cupful of white flour may be used in place of the Graham. Snow Gems. — Beat together lightly but thoroughly two parts clean, freshly fallen, dry snow, and one part best granular corn meal. Turn into hot gem irons and bake quickly. The snow should not be packed in measuring, and the bread should be prepared before the snow melts. Pop OTers. — For the preparation of these, one egg, one cupful of milk, and one scant cupful of white floor are required. Beat the egg, yolk and white, separately. Add to the yolk, when well beaten, one half the milk, and sift in the flour a little at a time, stirring until the whole is a perfectly smooth paste. Add the remainder of the milk gradually, beating well until the whole is an absolutely smooth, light batter about the thickness of cream. Stir in the stiffly beaten white of the egg, and bake in hot earthen cups or muffin rings, and to prevent them from sticking, sift flour into the rings after slightly oiling, afterward turning them upside down to shake off all the loose flour. Granola Gems. — Into three fourths of a cup of rich milk stir one cup of Granola (prepared by the Sanitarium Food Co.). Drop into heated irons, and bake for twenty or thirty minutes. l6o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Bean Gems. — Prepare the gems in the same manner as for Whole- Wheat Puffs, using one half cup of milk, one egg, one cup of cooked beans which have been rubbed through a colander and salted, and one cup and one tablespoonful of white flour. A Httle variation in the quantity of the flour may be necessary, dependent upon the moisture contained in the beans, although care should be taken to have them quite dry. Breakfast Rolls. — Sift a pint and a half of Graham flour into a bowl, and into it stir a cupful of very cold thin cream or unskimmed milk. Pour the liquid into the flour slowly, a few spoonfuls at a time, mixing each spoonful to a dough with the flour as fast as poured in. When all the liquid has been added, gather the fragments of dough together, knead thoroughly for ten minutes or longer, until perfectly smooth and elastic. The quantity of flour will vary somewhat with the quality, but in general, the quantity given will be quite suilicient for mixing the dough and dusting the board. When well kneaded, divide into two portions ; roll each over and over with the hands, until a long roll about one inch in diameter is formed ; cut this into two-inch lengths, prick with a fork and place on perforated tins, far enough apart so that one will not touch another when baking. Each roll should be as smooth and perfect as possible, and with no dry flour adhering. Bake at once, or let stand on ice for twenty minutes. The rolls should not be allowed to stand after forming, unless on ice. From thirty to forty minutes will be re- quired for baking. When done, spread on the table to cool, but do not pile one on top of another. Very nice rolls may be made in the same manner, using for the wetting ice-cold soft water. They require a longer kneading, are more crisp, but less tender than those made with cream. With some brands of Graham flour the rolls will be much lighter if one third white flour be used. Whole-wheat flour may be used in place of Graham, if preferred. Sticks. — Prepare, and knead the dough the same as for rolls. When ready to form, roll the dough much smaller ; scarcely larger than one's little finger, and cut into three or four-inch lengths. Bake the same as rolls, for about twenty minutes. Cream Graham Bolls. — To one half cup cold cream add one half cup of soft ice water. Make into a dough with three cups of Graham flour, sprinkling in slowly with the hands, beating at the same time, so as to in- corporate as much air as possible, until the dough is too stiff to be stirred ; then knead thoroughly, form into rolls, and bake. Corn Mush Bolls. — Make a dough of one cup of corn meal mush, one half cup of cream, and two and one half cups of white flour ; knead thor- oughly, shape into rolls, and bake. .- -> v^- N *ii^ r .^^if/ ::^^^ Initial Step. Kneading tlie Duugh. UNFERMENTED DOUGH BREAD. BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING. l6l Fruit Rolls. — Prepare the rolls as directed in the recipe for Break- fast Rolls, and when well kneaded, work into the dough a half cupful of Zante currants which have been well washed, dried, and floured. Form the rolls in the usual manner, and bake. Cream Mnsh Bolls. — Into a cupful of cold Graham mush beat thor- oughly three tablespoonfuls of thick, sweet cream. Add sufficient Graham flour to make a rather stiff dough, knead thoroughly, shape into rolls, and bake. Corn meal, farina, and other mushes may be used in the place of the Graham mush, if preferred. Beaten Biscuit. — Into a quart of whole-wheat flour mix a large cup of thin sweet cream in the same manner as for breakfast rolls. The dough must be very stiif, and rendered soft and pliable by thorough kneading and afterward pounding with a mallet for at least half an hour in the fol- lowing manner : Pound the dough out flat, and until of the same thickness throughout ; dredge lightly with flour ; double the dough over evenly and pound quickly around the outside, to fasten the edges together and thus retain the air within the dough. When well worked, the dough will ap- pear flaky and brittle, and pulling a piece off it quickly will cause a sharp, snapping sound. Mold into small biscuits, making an indenture in the center of each with the thumb, prick well with a fork, and place on per- forated sheets, with a space between, and put at once into the oven. The oven should be of the same temperature as for rolls. If they are " sad" inside when cold, they were not well baked, as they should be light and tender. If preferred, use one third white flour, instead of all whole-wheat. Excellent results are also obtained by chopping instead of pounding the dough. Cream Crisps. — Make a dough of one cupful of thin cream, and a little more than three cups of Graham flour. Knead until smooth, then divide the dough into several pieces, and place in a dish on ice for an hour, or until ice cold. Roll each piece separately and quickly as thin as brown paper. Cut with a knife into squares, prick with a fork, and bake on perforated tins, until lightly browned on both sides. Cream Crisps No. 2. — Into two and one half cups of cold cream or rich milk, sprinkle slowly with the hands, beating meanwhile to incorpo- rate air, four cups of best Graham flour, sifted with one half cup of granulated sugar. Add flour to knead ; about two and one fourth cups will be required. When well kneaded, divide into several portions, roll each as thin as a knife blade, cut into squares, prick well with a fork, and bake. Graliam Crisps. — Into one half cupful of ice-cold soft water, stir slowly, so as to incorporate as much air as possible, enough Graham flour to make a dough stiff enough to knead. A tablespoonful of sugar may be added to the water before stirring in the flour, if desired. After kneading l62 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. fifteen minutes, divide the dough into six portions ; roll each as thin as brown paper, prick with a fork, and bake on perforated tins, turning often until both sides are a light, even brown. Break into irregular pieces and serve. Oatmeal Crisps.— Make a dough with one cupful of oatmeal porridge and Graham ilour. Knead thoroughly, roll very thin, and bake as directed for Graham Crisps. A tablespoonful of sugar may be added if desired. Graham Crackers.— Make a dough of one cup of cream and Graham flour sufficient to make a soft dough. Knead thoroughly, and place on ice for half an hour; then roll thin, cut into small cakes with a cooky - cutter, prick with a fork, and bake on floured pans, in a brisk oven. A tablespoonful of sugar may be added if desired. Fruit Crackers. — Prepare a dough with one cup of cold sweet cream and three cups of Graham flour, knead well, and divide into two portions. Roll each quite thin. Spread one thickly with dates or figs seeded and chopped ; place the other one on top and press together with the rolling pin. Cut into squares and bake. An additional one fourth of a cup of flour will doubtless be needed for dusting the board and kneading. For additional bread recipes, see pages 397, 398. TABLE TOPICS. Behind the nutty loaf is the mill wheel ; behind the mill is the wheat field ; on the wheat field rests the sunlight ; above the sun is God, — James Russell Lowell. Bread forms one of the most important parts of the ration of the German sol- dier. In time of peace, the private soldier is supplied day by day with one pound and nine ounces of bread ; when fighting for the P'atherland, every man is entitled to a free ration of over two pounds of bread, and field bakery trains and steam ovens for providing the large amount of bread required, form a recognized part of the equip- ment of the German army. The wandering Arab lives almost entirely upon bread, with a few dates as a relish. According to Count Rumford, the Bavarian wood-chopper, one of the most hardy and hard-working men in the world, receives for his weekly rations one large loaf of rye bread and a small quantity of roasted meal. Of the meal he makes an infusion, to which he adds a little salt, and with the mixture, which he calls burned soup, he eats his rye bread. No beer, no beef, no other food than that mentioned, and no drink but water ; and yet he can do more work and enjoys a better digestion and possesses stronger muscles than the average American or Englishman, with their varied dietary. Forming: Rolls. Breakfast Toast Sticks. UNFERMENTED DOUGH BREADS. Wafers. TABLE TOPICS. 163 The following truthful bit of Scandinavian history well illustrates the influence of habits of frugality upon national character : " The Danes were approaching, and one of the Swedish bishops asked how many men the province of Dalarna could furnish. " 'At least twenty thousand,' was the reply ; 'for the old men are just as strong sind brave as the young ones.' " ' But what do they live upon ? ' " ' Upon bread and water. They take little account of hunger and thirst, and when corn is lacking, they make their bread out of tree bark.' " ' Nay,' said the bishop, ' a people who eat tree bark and drink water, the devil himself could not vanquish ! ' and neither were they vanquished. Their progress was one series of triumphs, till they placed Gustavus Vasa on the throne of Sweden." The word biscuit embodies the process by which this form of bread was made from time immemorial down to within the last century. Bis (twice), and coctus (cooked), show that they were twice baked. Fragments of unfermented bread were discovered in the Swiss lake-dwellings, which belong to the Neolithic age. Fermented bread is seldom seen in Northern Europe and Asia except among the rich or the nobility. At one time, the captain of an English vessel requested a baker of Gottenburg to bake a large quantity of loaves of raised bread. The baker refused to undertake an order of such magnitude, saying it would be quite impossible to dispose of so much, until the captain agreed to take and pay for it all. I MADE a Study of the ancient and indispensable art of bread-making, consulting such authorities as offered, going back to the primitive days and first invention of the unleavened kind, and traveling gradually down in my studies through that accidental souring of the dough which it is supposed taught the leavening process, and through the various fermentations thereafter till I came to " good, sweet, wholesome bread," — the staff of life. Leaven, which some deemed the soul of bread, the spiritus which fills its cellular tissues, which is religiously preserved like the vestal fire, — some precious bottleful, I suppose, brought over in the Mayflower, did the business for America, and its influence is still rising, swelling, spreading in cerulean billows over the land, — this seed I regularly and faithfully procured from the village, until one morning I forgot the rules and scalded my yeast ; by which accident I discovered that even this was not indispensable, and I have gladly omitted it ever since. Neither did I put any soda or other acid or alkali, into my bread. It would seem that I made it according to the recipe which Marcus Porcius Cato gave about two centuries before Christ: " Make kneaded bread thus : Wash your hands and trough well. Put the meal into the trough, add water gradually, and knead it thoroughly. When you have kneaded it well, mold it, and bake it under a cover," that is in a baking kettle. — Thoreau in Walden. ifF all the articles which enter the list of foods, none are more wholesome and pleasing thaai the fruits which na- ture so abundantly provides. Their delicate hues and perfect outlines appeal to our sense of beauty, while their delicious flavors gratify our appetite. Our markets are supplied with an almost unlimited variety of both native and tropical fruits, and it might be supposed that they would always appear upon the daily bill of fare ; yet in the ma- jority of homes this is rarely the case. People are inclined to consider fruit, unless the product of their own gardens, a luxury too expensive for common use. Many who use a plenti- ful supply, never think of placing it upon their tables, unless cooked. Ripe fruit is a most healthful article of diet when par- taken of at seasonable times ; but to eat it, or any other food, between meals, is a gross breach of the requirements of good digestion. Fruits contain from seventy-five to ninety-five per cent of water, and a meager proportion of nitrogenous matter ; hence [.64] FRUITS. l6s their value as nutrients, except in a few instances, is rather small ; but they supply a variety of agreeable acids which refresh and give tone to the system, and their abundant and proper use does much to keep the vital machinery in good working order. Aside from the skin and seeds, all fruits consist essentially of two parts, — the cellulose structure containing the juice, and the juice itself The latter is water, with a small proportion of fruit sugar (from one to twenty per cent in different varieties), and vegetable acids. These acids are either free, or combined with potash and lime in the form of acid salts. They are malic, citric, tartaric, and pectic acids. The last-named is the jelly-producing principle. While the juice, as we commonly find it, is readily trans- formable for use in the system, the cellular structure of the fruit is not so easily digested. In some fruits, as the straw- berry, grape, and banana, the cell walls are so delicate as to be easily broken up ; but in watermelons, apples, and oranges, the cells are coarser, and form a larger bulk of the fruit, hence are less easily digested. As a rule, other points being equal, the fruits which yield the richest and largest quan- tity of juices, and also possess a cellular framework the least perceptible on mastication, are the most readily digested. A certain amount of waste matter is an advantage, to give bulk to our food ; but persons with weak stomachs, who cannot eat cer- tain kinds of fruit, are often able to digest the juice when taken alone. Unripe fruits differ from ripe fruits in that they contain starch, which during ripening is changed into sugar, and gener- ally some proportion of tannic acid, which gives them their astringency. The characteristic constituent of unripe fruit, however, is pectose, an element insoluble in water, but which, as maturation proceeds, is transformed into pectic and pectosic acids. These are soluble in boiling water, and upon cooling, yield gelatinous solutions. Their presence makes it possible to convert the juice of ripe fruits into jelly. Raw starch is indigest- ible in the stomach, hence unripe fruit should never be eaten i66 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. uncooked. As fruit matures, the changes it undergoes are such as best fit it for consumption and digestion. The following table shows the composition of the fruits in common use: — ANALYSIS. Apples Pears Peaches Grapes Plums Gooseberries .... Strawberries .... Raspberries .... Currants Blackberries .... Cherries Apricots Oranges Dates Bananas Turkey Figs .... Water. Albumen. Sugar. 83.0 0.4 6.8 84.0 0-3 7.0 85.0 80.0 0-5 0.7 1.8 Glucose. 13.0 82.0 0.2 3-6 86.0 U.4 7.0 87.6 0-5 4-5 86.+ 0-5 4.7 85.2 0.4 6.4 86.4 0-5 4-4 75-0 0.9 131 85.0 .08 l.o 86.0 * 8 to 10 20.8 6.6 54. 73-9 4.8 i9-7f 17-5 6.1 57-5 Free Acid. Malic. I .0 O. I 0.7 Tartaric, 0.8 Citric. '•5 1-3 1-3 Cit. &Mal. I.I 0-3 Fat. 0.2 Fat. 0.6 Fat. 0.9 5-2 4.6 8.0 3-' 5-7 1.9 o. I 1-7 0.2 1-4 2.2 5-9 12.3 8.41: Cellulose. Mineral Matter. 0.4 0-3 0.6 0.4 0.6 0-5 0.6 0.4 OS 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.6 0.8 2-3 * Small quantities of albumen, citric acid, citrate of potash, cellulose, etc. T Sugar and pectose. t Starch, pectose, etc. There is a prevailing notion that the free use of fruits, especially in summer, excites derangement of the digestive organs. When such derangement occurs, it is far more likely to have been occasioned by the way in which the fruit was eaten than by the fruit itself Perhaps it was taken as a surfeit dish at the end of a meal. It may have been eaten in combi- FRUITS. 167 nation with rich, oily foods, pastry, strong coffee, and other indigestible viands, which, in themselves, often excite an attack of indigestion. Possibly it was partaken of between meals, or late at night, with ice cream and other confections, or it was swallowed without sufficient mastication. Certainly,. it is not marvelous that stomach and bowel disorders do result under such circumstances. The innocent fruit, like many other good things, being found in " bad company," is blamed accordingly. An excess of any food at meals or between meals, is likely to prove injurious, and fruits present no exception to this rule. Fruit taken at seasonable times and in suitable quantities, alone or in combination with proper foods, gives us one of the most agreeable and healthful articles of diet. Fruit, fats, and meats do not affiliate, and they are liable to create a disturb- ance whenever taken together. Partially decayed, stale, and overripe, as well as unripe fruit, should never be eaten. According to M. Pasteur, the French scientist, all fruits and vegetables, when undergoing even incipient decay, contain numerous germs, which, introduced into the system, are liable to produce disturbances or disease. Perfectly fresh, ripe fruit, with proper limitations as to quantity and occasion, may be taken into a normal stomach with im- punity at any season. It is especially important that all fruits to be eaten should not only be sound in quality, but should be made perfectly clean by washing if necessary, since fruit grown near the ground is liable to be covered with dangerous bacteria (such as cause typhoid fever or diphtheria), which exist in the soil or in the material used in fertilizing it. Most fruits, properly used, aid digestion either directly or indirectly. The juicy ones act as diluents, and their free use lessens the desire for alcohol and other stimulants. According to German analysts, the apple contains a larger percentage of phosphorus than any other fruit, or than any vegetable. In warm weather and in warm climates, when foods are not needed for a heat-producing purpose, the diet may well consist largely of fruits and succulent vegetables, eaten in combination with lC8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. bread and grains. In case of liver and kidney affections, rheu- matism, and gout, the use of fruit is considered very beneficial by many scientific authorities. To serve its best purpose, raw fruit should be eaten without sugar or other condiments, or with the addition of as small a quantity as possible. It is a disputed question whether fruits should begin or end the meal ; but it is generally conceded by those who have given the matter attention, that fruit eaten at the beginning of a meal is itself the more readily digested, and aids in the diges- tion of other foods, since fruits, like soups, have the property of stimulating the flow of the digestive juices. Something, however, must depend upon the character of the fruit ; oranges, melons, and like juicy fruits, are especially useful as appe- tizers to begin the meal, while bananas and similar fruits agree better if taken with other food, so as to secure thorough mix- ture with saliva. This is true of all fruits, except such pulpy fruits as strawberries, peaches, melons, grapes, and oranges. It is often erroneously asserted that fruit as dessert is injurious to digestion. For those people, however, who regulate their bill of fare in accordance with the principles of hygiene, a simple course of fruit is not only wholesome, but is all that is needed after a dinner ; and much time, labor, and health will be saved when housekeepers are content to serve desserts which nature supplies all ready for use, instead of those harm- ful combinations in the preparing of which they spend hours of tiresome toil. Description. — For convenience, fruits may be grouped together ; as, pomaceous fruits, including the apple, quince, pear, etc. ; the drupaceous fruits, those provided with a hard stone surrounded by a fleshy pulp, as the peach, apricot, plum, cherry, olive, and date ; the orange or citron group, includ- ing the orange, lemon, lime, citron, grape fruit, shaddock, and pomegranate ; the baccate or berry kind, comprising the grape, gooseberry, currant, cranberry, whortleberry, blueberry, and others ; the arterio group, to which belong raspberries, straw- berries, dewberries, and blackberries ; the fig group ; the FRUItS. 169 gourd group, including melons and cantaloupes ; and foreign fruits. It is impossible, in the brief scope of this work, to enumerate the infinite varieties of fruit ; but we will briefly speak of some of the most common found in the gardens and markets of this latitude. Apples. — The origin and first home of the apple, is un- known. If tradition is to be believed, it was the inauspicious fruit to which may be traced all the miseries of mankind. In pictures of the temptation in the garden of Eden, our mother Eve is generally represented as holding an apple in her hand. We find the apple mentioned in the mythologies of the Greeks, Druids, and Scandinavians. The Thebans offered apples instead of sheep as a sacrifice to Hercules, a custom derived from the following circumstance : — "At one time, when a sacrifice was necessary, the river Asopus had so inundated the country that it was impossible to take a sheep across it for the purpose, when some youths, recol- lecting that the Greek word melon signified both sheep and an apple, stuck wooden pegs into the fruit to represent legs, and brought this vegetable quadruped as a substitute for the usual offering. After this date, the apple was considered as especially devoted to Hercules." In ancient times, Greece produced most excellent apples. They were the favorite dessert of Phillip of Macedon and Alexander the Great, the latter causing them to be served at all meals. Doubtless they came to be used to excess ; for it is recorded of the Athenian lawgiver, Solon, that he made a decree prohibiting a bridegroom from partaking of more than one at his marriage banquet, a law which was zealously kept by the Greeks, and finally adopted by the Persians. In Homer's time the apple was regarded as one of the precious fruits. It was extensively cultivated by the Romans, who gave to new varieties the names of many eminent citizens, and after the conquest of Gaul, introduced its culture into South- western Europe, whence it has come to be widely diffused throughout all parts of the temperate zone. 170 SCIENCE IN THE KiTCHEN. Apples were introduced into the United States by the early settlers, and the first trees were planted on an island in Boston Harbor, which still retains the name of Apple Island. The wild crab tree is the parent of most of the cultivated varieties. The Pear. — The origin of the pear, like that of the apple, is shrouded in obscurity, though Egypt, Greece, and Palestine dispute for the honor of having given birth to the tree which bears this prince of fruits. Theophrastus, a Greek philosopher of the fourth century, speaks of the pear in terms of highest praise ; and Galen, the father of medical science, mentions the pear in his writings as possessing " qualities which benefit the stomach." The pear tree is one of the most hardy of all fruit trees, and has-been known to live several hundred years. The Quince. — This fruit appears to have been a native of Crete, from whence it was introduced into ancient Greece, and was largely cultivated by both Greeks and Romans. In Persia, the fruit is edible in its raw state ; but in this country it never ripens sufficiently to be palatable without being cooked. The fruit is highly fragrant and exceedingly acid, and for these reasons is largely employed to flavor other fruits. The Peach. — This fruit, as its botanical name, prinus Persica, indicates, is a native of Persia, and was brought from that country to Greece, from whence it passed into Italy. It is frequently mentioned by ancient writers, and was regarded with much esteem by the people of Asia. The Romans, how- ever, had the singular notion that peaches gathered in Persia contained a deadly poison, but if once transplanted to another soil, this injurious effect was lost. In composition, the peach is notable for the small quantity of saccharine matter it con- tains in comparison with other fruits. The PI am. — The plum is one of the earliest of known fruits. Thebes, Memphis, and Damascus were noted for the great number of their plum trees in the early centuries. Plum trees grow wild in Asia, America, and the South of Europe, and from these a large variety of domestic plum fruits have been cultivated. FRUITS. 171 Plums are more liable than most other fruits to produce disorders of digestion, and when eaten raw should be carefully selected, that they be neither unripe nor overripe. Cooking renders them less objectionable. The Prune. — The plum when dried is often called by its French cognomen, prune. The larger and sweeter varieties are generally selected for drying, and when good and properly cooked, are among the most wholesome of prepared fruits. The Apricot. — This fruit seems to be intermediate between the peach and the plum, resembling the former externally, while its stone is like that of the plum. The apricot originated in Armenia, and the tree which bears the fruit was termed by the Romans "the tree of Armenia." It was introduced into England in the time of Henry VIII. The apricot is cultivated to some extent in the United States, but it requires too much care to permit of its being largely grown, except in certain sections. The Cherry. — The common garden cherry is supposed to have been derived from the two species of wild fruit, and his- torians tell us that we are indebted to the agricultural experi- ments of Mithridates, the great king of ancient Pontus, for this much esteemed fruit. It is a native of Asia Minor, and derives its name from Cerasus, the city or country which was its birthplace. The Olive. — From time immemorial the olive has been as- sociated with history. The Scriptures make frequent reference to it, and its cultivation was considered of first importance among the Jews, who used its oil for culinary and a great variety of other purposes. Ancient mythology venerated the olive tree above all others, and invested it with many charming bits of fiction. Grecian poets sang its praises, and early Roman writers speak of it with high esteem. In appearance and size the fruit is much like the plum ; when ripe it is very dark green, almost black, and possesses a strong, and, to many peo- ple, disagreeable flavor. The pulp abounds in a bland oil, for the production of which it is extensively cultivated in Syria, 172 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Egypt. Italy, Spain, and Southern France. The fruit itself is also pickled and preserved in various ways, but, like all other similar commodities when thus prepared, it is by no means a wholesome article of food. The Date. — The date is the fruit of the palm tree so often mentioned in the Sacred Writings, and is indigenous to Africa and portions of Asia. The fruit grows in bunches which often weigh from twenty to twenty-five pounds, and a single tree will bear from one to three thousand pounds in a season. The date is very sweet and nutritious. It forms a staple article of diet for the inhabitants of some parts of Egypt, Arabia, and Persia, and frequently forms the chief food of their horses, dogs, and camels. The Arabs reduce dried dates to a meal, and make therefrom a bread, which often constitutes their sole food on long journeys through the Great Desert. The inhabitants of the countries where the date tree flourishes, put its various pro- ductions to innumerable uses. From its leaves they make baskets, bags, mats, combs, and brushes ; from its stalks, fences for their gardens ; from its fibers, thread, rope, and rigging ; from its sap, a spirituous liquor ; from its fruit, food for man and beast ; while the body of the tree furnishes them with fuel. The prepared fruit is largely imported to this country. That which is large, smooth, and of a soft reddish yellow tinge, with a whitish membrane between the flesh and stone, is considered the best. The Orange. — According to some authors, the far-famed " golden fruit of the Hesperides," which Hercules stole, was the orange ; but it seems highly improbable that it was known to writers of antiquity. It is supposed to be indigenous to Central and Eastern Asia. Whatever its nativity, it has now spread over all the warmer regions of the earth. The orange tree is very hardy in its own habitat, and is one of the most prolific of all fruit-bearing trees, a single triee having been known to produce twenty thousand good oranges in a season. Orange trees attain great age. There are those in Italy and Spain which are known to have flourished for six hundred years. Numer- ous varieties of the orange are grown, and are imported to our FRUITS. 173 markets from every part of the globe. Florida oranges are among the best, and when obtained in their perfection, are the most luscious of all fruits. The Lemon. — This fruit is supposed to be a native of the North of India, although it is grown in nearly all sub-tropicaL climates. In general, the fruit is very acid, but in a variety known as the sweet lemon, or bergamot (said to be a hybrid of the orange and lemon), the juice is sweet. The sour lemon is highly valued for its antiscorbutic properties, and is largely employed as a flavoring ingredient in culinary preparations, and in making a popular refreshing beverage. The Citron. — The citron is a fruit very similar to the lemon, though larger in size and less succulent. It is supposed to be identical with the Hebrew tappuach, and to be the fruit which is mentioned in the English version of the Old Testa- ment as "apple." The citron is not suitable for eating in its raw state, though its juice is used in connection with water and sugar to form an excellent acid drink. Its rind, which is very thick, with a warty and furrowed exterior, is prepared in sugar and largely used for flavoring purposes. The Lime. — The fruit of the lime is similar to the lemon, though much smaller in size. It is a native of Eastern Asia, but has long been cultivated in the South of Europe and other sub- tropical countries. The fruit is seldom used except for making acidulous drinks, for which it is often given the preference over the lemon. The Grape Fruit.— This fruit, a variety of shaddock, be- longs to the great citrus family, of which there are one hundred and sixty-nine known varieties. The shaddock proper, how- ever, is a much larger fruit, frequently weighing from ten to fourteen pounds. Although a certain quantity of grape fruit is brought from the West Indies, our principal supply is derived from Florida. It is from two to four times the size of an or- dinary orange, and grows in clusters. It is rapidly gaining in favor with fruit lovers. Its juice has a moderately acid taste and makes a pleasing beverage. The pulp, carefully separated, is also much esteemed. 1/4 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. The Pomegranate. — This fruit has been cultivated in Asia from earliest antiquity, and is still quite generally grown in most tropical climes. In the Scriptures it is mentioned with the vine, fig, and olive, among the pleasant fruits of the prom- ised land. It is about the size of a large peach, of a fine golden color, with a rosy tinge on one side. The rind is thick and leathery. The central portion is composed of little globules of pulp and seeds inclosed in a thin membrane, each seed being about the size of a red currant. It is sub-acid, and slightly bitter in taste. The rind is strongly astringent, and often used as a medicine. The Grape. — Undoubtedly the grape was one of the first fruits eaten by mankind, and one highly valued from an- tiquity down to the present time. Although this fruit is often sadly perverted in the manufacture of wine, when rightly used it is one of the most excellent of all fruits. The skins and seeds are indigestible and should be rejected, but the fresh, juicy pulp is particularly wholesome and re- freshing. Several hundred varieties of the grape are culti- vated. Some particularly sweet varieties are made into raisins, by exposure to the sun or to artificial heat. Sun- dried grapes make the best raisins. The so-called English or Zante currant belongs to the grape family, and is the dried fruit of a vine which grows in the Ionian Islands and yields a very small berry. The name currant, as applied to these fruits, is a corruption of the word Corinth, where the fruit was formerly grown. The Gooseberry. — The gooseberry probably derives its name from gorse or goss, a prickly shrub that grows wild in thickets and on hillsides in Europe, Asia, and America. It was known to the ancients, and is mentioned in the writings of Theocritus and Pliny. Gooseberries were a favorite dish with some of the emperors, and were extensively cultivated in gar- dens during the Middle Ages. The gooseberry is a wholesome and agreeable fruit, and by cultivation may be brought to a high state of perfection in size and flavor. FRUITS. 175 The Currant. — This fruit derives its name from its re- semblance to the small grapes of Corinth, sometimes called Corinthus, and is indigenous to America, Asia, and Europe. The fruit is sharply acid, though very pleasant to the taste. Cultivation has produced white currants from the red, and in a distinct species of the fruit grown in Northern Europe and Russia, the currants are black or yellow. The Whortleberry and Blueberry. — These are both spe- cies of the same fruit, which grows in woods and waste places in the North of Europe and America. Of the latter species there are two varieties, the high-bush and the low-bush, which are equally palatable. The fruit is very sweet and pleasant to the taste, and is one of the most wholesome of all berries. The Cranberry. — A German writer of note insists that the original name of this fruit was cram-berry, because after dinner, when one was filled with other food, such was its pleasant and seductive flavor that he could still "cram" quite a quantity thereof, in defiance of all dietetic laws. Other writers consider the name a corruption of craneberry, so called because it is eagerly sought after by the cranes and other birds which frequent the swamps and marshes where it chiefly grows. The fruit is extremely acid, and is highly valued for sauces and jellies. Cranberries are among the most convenient fruits for keeping. Freezing does not seem to hurt them, and they may be kept frozen all winter, or in water without freezing, in the cellar, or other cool places, for a long period. The Strawberry. — The flavor of antiquity rests upon the wild strawberry. Its fruit was peddled by itinerant dealers about the streets of ancient Grecian and Roman cities. Virgil sings of it in pastoral poems, and Ovid mentions it in words of praise. The name by which the fruit was known to the Greeks indicates its size ; with the Latins its name was symbolic of its perfume. The name strawberry probably came from the old Saxon streawberige, either from some resemblance of the stems to straw, or from the fact that the berries have the appearance 1/6 SCIENCE IN TME KITCHEN. when growing of being strewn upon the ground. In olden times, children strung the berries upon straws, and sold so many " straws of berries " for a penny, from which fact it is possible the name may have been derived. The strawberry is indigenous to the temperate regions of both the Eastern and Western Hemispheres, but it seems to have been matured in gardens, only within the last two centuries. The Raspberry. — This fruit grows in both a wild and a cul- tivated state. It derives its name from the rough rasps or spines with which the bushes are covered. Among the an- cients it was called " the bramble of Mt. Ida," because it was abundant upon that mountain. It is a hardy fruit, found in most parts of the world, and is of two special varieties, the black and the red. The Blackberry. — This fruit is a native of America and the greater part of Europe. There are one hundred and fifty- one named species, although the high-blackberry and the low- blackberry, or dewberry, are said to have furnished the best cultivated varieties. The Mulberry. — Different varieties of the mulberry tree produce white, red, and black mulberries of fine aromatic flavor, and acidulous or sweet taste. Persia is supposed to be the native home of this fruit, from whence it was carried, at an early date, to Asia Minor and to Greece. The Hebrews were evidently well acquainted with it. It was also cultivated by the farmers of Attica and Peloponnesus. The ancient mul- berry was considered the wisest and most prudent of trees, because it took care not to put forth the smallest bud until the cold of winter had disappeared, not to return. Then, however, it lost no time, but budded and blossomed in a day. Several varieties are found in the United States. The Melon. — This is the generic name for all the members of the gourd tribe known as cantaloupes, muskmelons, and watermelons. The fruit varies greatly in size and color, and in the character of the rind. When fresh and perfectly ripe, melons are among the most delicious of edible fruits. The Fig. — In the most ancient histories, the fig tree is referred to as among the most desirable productions of the FRUITS. 177 earth. It was the only tree in the garden of Eden of which the Sacred Writings make particular mention. Among the inhabitants of ancient Syria and Greece, it formed one of the principal articles of food. Its cultivation was, and is still, extensively carried on in nearly all Eastern countries ; also in Spain, Southern France, and some portions of the United States. The fruit is pear-shaped, and consists of a pulpy mass full of little seeds. Dried and compressed figs are largely im- ported, and are to be found in all markets. Those brought from Smyrna are reputed to be the best. The Banana. — This is essentially a tropical fruit growing very generally in the East, the West Indies, South American countries, and some of the Southern States. The plant is an annual, sending up stems to the height of ten or fifteen feet, while drooping from the top are enormous leaves three or four feet in length, and looking, as one writer has aptly said, like "great, green quill pens." It is planted in fields like corn, which in its young growth it much resembles. Each plant produces a single cluster of from eighty to one hundred or more bananas, often weighing in the aggregate as high as seventy pounds. The banana is exceedingly productive. According to Hum- boldt, a space of 1,000 feet, which will yield only 38 pounds of wheat, or 462 pounds of potatoes, will produce 4,000 pounds of bananas, and in a much shorter period of time. It is more nutritious than the majority of fruits, and in tropical countries is highly valued as a food, affording in some localities the chief alimentary support of the people. Its great importance as a food product is shown by the fact that three or four good sized bananas are equal in nutritive value to a pound of bread. The amount of albumen contained in a pound of bananas, is about the same as that found in a pound of rice, and the total nutri- tive value of one pound of bananas is only a trifle less than that of an equal quantity of the best beefsteak. The unripe fruit, which contains a considerable percentage of starch, is often dried in the oven and eaten as bread, which, in this state, it considerably resembles in taste and appear- ance. Thus prepared, it may be kept for a long time, and is very serviceable for use on long journeys. The variety of 1 78 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. the banana thus used is, however, a much larger kind than any of those ordinarily found in our Northern markets, and is known as the plantain. The dried plantain, powdered, furnishes a meal of fragrant odor and bland taste, not un- like common wheat flour. It is said to be easy of digestion, and two pounds of the dry meal or six pounds of the fruit is the daily allowance for a laborer in tropical America. The Pineapple. — This delicious fruit is a native of South America, where it grows wild in the forests. It is cultivated largely in tropical America, the West Indies, and some portions of Europe. The fruit grows singly from the center of a small plant having iifteen or more long, narrow, serrated, ridged, sharp-pointed leaves, seemingly growing from the root. In general appearance it resembles the century plant, though so much smaller that twelve thousand pineapple plants may be grown on one acre. From the fibers of the leaves is made a costly and valuable fabric called pi}ia muslin. Nothing can surpass the rich, delicate flavor of the wild pineapple as found in its native habitat. It is in every way quite equal to the best cultivated variety. The most excel- lent pineapples are imported from the West Indies, but are seldom found in p.erfection in our Northern markets. FRESH FRUIT FOR THE TABLE. All fruit for serving should be perfectly ripe and sound. Immature fruit is never wholesome, and owing to the large percentage of water in its composition, fruit is very prone to change ; hence overripe fruit should not be eaten, as it is liable to ferment and decompose in the digestive tract. Fruit which has begun, however slightly, to decay, should be rejected. Juice circulates through its tissues in much the same manner as the blood circulates through animal tissues, though not so rapidly and freely. The circulation is suf- ficient, however, to convey to all the parts the products of decomposition, when only a small portion has wndergonc decay, FRUITS. 179 and although serious results do not always follow the use of such fruit, it certainly is not first-class food. If intended to be eaten raw, fruit should be well ripened be- fore gathering, and should be perfectly fresh. Fruit that has stood day after day in a dish upon the table, in a warm room, is far less wholesome and tempting than that brought fresh from the storeroom or cellar. All fruits should be thoroughly cleansed before serving. Such fruit as cherries, grapes, and cur- rants may be best washed by placing in a colander, and dip- ping in and out of a pan of water until perfectly clean, draining and drying before serving. DIRECTIOIVS FOR SERVING FRUITS. Apples. — In serving these, the "queen of air fruits," much oppor- tunity is afforded for a display of taste in their arrangement. After wiping clean with a damp towel, they may be piled in a fruit basket, with a few sprigs of green leaves here and there between their rosy cheeks. The feathery tops of carrots and celery are pretty for this purpose. Oranges and apples so arranged, make a highly ornamental dish. Raw mellow sweet apples make a delicious dish when pared, sliced, and served with cream. Bananas. — Cut the ends from the fruit and serve whole, piled in a basket with oranges, grapes, or plums. Another way is to peel, slice, and serve with thin cream. Bananas are also very nice sliced, sprinkled lightly with sugar, and before it has quite dissolved, covered with orange juice. Sliced bananas, lightly sprinkled with sugar, alternating in layers with sections of oranges, make a most delicious dessert. Cherries. — Serve on stems, piled in a basket or high dish, witH bits of green leaves and vines between. Rows of different colored cherries, arranged in pyramidal form, make also a handsome dish. Currants. — Large whole clusters may be served on the stem, and when it is possible to obtain both red and white varieties, they make a most attractive dish. Put them into cold water for a little time, cool thoroughly, and drain well before using. Currants, if picked from the stems after being carefully washed and drained, may be served lightly sprinkled with sugar. Currants and raspberries served together, half and half, or one third currants and two thirds raspberries, are excellent. Only the ripest of currants should be used. Gooseberries. — When fresh and ripe, the gooseberry is one of the most delicious of small fruits. Serve with stems on. Drop into cold l8o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. water for a few moments, drain, and pile in a glass dish for the table. Grapes. — Grapes need always to be washed before serving. Drop the bunches into ice water, let them remain ten or fifteen minutes, then drain and serve. An attractive dish may be made by arranging bunches of different colored grapes together on a plate edged with grape leaves. Melons. — Watermelons should be served very cold. After being well washed on the outside, put on ice until needed. Cut off a slice at the ends, that each half may stand upright on a plate, and then cut around in even slices. Instead of cutting through the center into even halves, the melon may be cut in points back and forth around the entire circumfer- ence, so that when separated, each half will appear like a crown. An- other way is to take out the central portion with a spoon, in cone-shaped pieces, and arrange on a plate with a few bits of ice. Other melons may be served in halves, with the seeds removed. The rough skin of the can- taloupe should be thoroughly scrubbed with a vegetable brush, then rinsed and wiped, after which bury the melon in broken ice till serving time ; divide into eighths or sixteenths, remove the seeds, reconstruct the melon, and serve surrounded with ice, on a folded napkin, or arranged on a bed of grape leaves. Do not cool the melon by placing ice upon the flesh, as the moisture injures the delicate flavor. Orangres. — Serve whole or cut the skin into eighths, half-way down, separating it from the fruit, and curling it inward, thus showing half the orange white and the other half yellow ; or cut the skin into eighths, two- thirds down, and after loosening from the fruit, leave them spread open like the petals of a lily. Oranges sliced and mixed with well ripened strawberries, in the proportion of three oranges to a quart of berries, make a palatable dessert. Peaches and Pears. — Pick out the finest, and wipe the wool from the peaches. Edge a plate with uniform sized leaves of foliage plant of the same tints as the fruit, and pile the fruit artistically upon it, tucking sprays or tips of the plant between. Bits of ice may also be intermingled. Yellow Bartlett pears and rosy-cheeked peaches arranged in this way are most ornamental. Peaches and Cream. — Pare the peaches just as late as practicable, since they become discolored bj' standing. Always use a silver knife, as steel soon blackens and discolors the fruit. If sugar is to be used, do not add it until the time for serving, as it will start the juice, and likewise turn the fruit brown, destroying much of its rich flavor. Keep on ice until needed for the table. Add cream with each person's dish. Pineapples. — The pineapple when fresh and ripened to perfection, is as mellow and juicy as a ripe peach, and needs no cooking to fit it for the table. Of course it must be pared, and have the eyes and fibrous center FRUITS. l8l removed. Then it may be sliced in generous pieces and piled upon a plate, or cut into smaller portions and served in saucers. No condiments are necessary ; even the use of sugar detracts from its delicate flavor. Pineapples found in our Northern markets are, however, generally so hard and tough as to require cooking, or are valuable only for their juice, which may be extracted and used for flavoring other fruits. When suffi- ciently mellow to be eaten raw, they are usually so tart as to seem to re- quire a light sprinkling of sugar to suit most tastes. Pineapples pared, cut into dice or small pieces, lightly sprinkled with sugar, to which just before serving, a cup of orange juice is added, form a delicious dish. Plums. — Plums make a most artistic fruit piece, served whole and ar- ranged with bunches of choice green grapes, in a basket or glass dish. A fine edge may be made from the velvety leaves of dark purple foliage plants. Pressed Figs. — Look over carefully, and select only such as are per- fectly good. They may be served dry, mixed with bunches of raisins, or steamed over a kettle of boiling water. Steamed figs make an excellent breakfast dish, and are considered much more wholesome than when used dry. Steamed raisins are likewise superior to dried raisins. Raspberries, Blackberries, Dewberries, Blueberries, and Whortle- berries, require careful looking over to remove all insects, stems, and overripe fruit. Blueberries and whortleberries frequently need to be washed. They are then drained by spreading on a sieve or colander. Perfectly ripe, they are more healthful without condiments ; but sugar and cream are usually considered indispensable. If necessary to wash strawberries, they should be put into cold water, a few at a time, pushed down lightly beneath the water several times until entirely clean, then taken out one by one, hulled, and used at once. Like all other small fruits and berries they are more whole- some served without cream, but if cream is used, each person should be allowed to add it to his own dish, as it quickly curdles and renders the whole dish unsightly ; if allowed to stand, it also impairs the flavor of the fruit. Frosted Fruit. — Prepare a mixture of the beaten white of egg, sugar, and a very little cold water. Dip nice bunches of clean currants, cherries, or grapes, into the mixture ; drain nearly dry, and roll lightly in powdered sugar. Lay them on white paper to dry. Plums, apricots, and peaches may be dipped in the mixture, gently sprinkled with sugar, then allowed to dry. This method of preparing fruit is not to be commended for its wholesomeness, but it is sometimes desirable for ornament. l82 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. KEEPING FRESH FRUIT. Of the numerous varieties of fruits grown in this country, apples and pears are about the only ones that can be kept for any length of time without artificial means. As soon as fruit has attained its maturity, a gradual change or breaking down of tissues begins. In some fruits this process follows rapidly ; in others it is gradual. There is a certain point at which the fruits are best suited for use. We call it mellowness, and say that the fruit is in "good eating condition." When this stage has been reached, deterioration and rotting soon follow. In some fruits, as the peach, plum, and early varieties of apples and pears, these changes occur within a few days after maturity, and it is quite useless to attempt to keep them ; in others, like the later varieties of apples and pears, the changes are slow but none the less certain. To keep such fruits we must endeavor to retard or prolong the process of change, by avoiding all con- ditions likely to hasten decay. Even with ordinary care, sound fruit will keep for quite a length of time ; but it can be pre- served in better condition and for a longer period by careful attention to the following practical points : — 1. If the fruit is of a late variety, allow it to remain on the tree as long as practicable without freezing. 2. Always pick and handle the fruit with the greatest care. 3. Gather the fruit on a dry, cool day, and place in heaps or bins for two or three weeks. 4. Carefully sort and pack in barrels, placing those most mellow and those of different varieties in different barrels ; head the barrels, label, and place in a cool, dry place where the temperature will remain equable. Some consider it better to keep fruit in thin layers upon broad shelves in a cool place. This plan allows frequent inspection and removal of all affected fruit without disturbance of the remainder. 5. Warmth and moisture are the conditions most favorable to decomposition, and should be especially guarded against. 6. The best temperature for keeping fruit is about 34° F., or 2° above freezing. t"RUltS. 183 Another method which is highly recommended is to sprinkle a layer of sawdust on the bottom of a box, and then put in a layer of apples, not allowing them to touch each other. Upon this pack more sawdust ; then another layer of apples, and so on until the box is filled. After packing, place up from the ground, in a cellar or storeroom, and they will keep perfectly, retaining their freshness and flavor until brought out. The Practical Farmer gives the following rough but good way to store and keep apples : " Spread plenty of buckwheat chaff on the barn floor, and on this place the apples, filling the inter- stices with the chaff. Cover with the chaff and then with straw two or three feet deep. The advantage of this is that cover- ing and bedding in chaff excludes cold, prevents air cur- rents, maintains a uniform temperature, absorbs the moisture of decay, and prevents the decay produced by moisture." The ordinary cellar underneath the dwelling house is too warm and damp for the proper preservation of fruit, and some other place should be provided if possible. A writer in the American Agriculturist thus calls attention to an additional reason why fruit should not be stored beneath living-rooms : "After late apples arc stored for the winter, a gradual change begins within the fruit. It absorbs oxygen from the air of the room, and gives off carbonic acid gas. Another change results in the formation of water, which is given off as moisture. The taking up of oxygen by the fruit and the giving off of carbonic acid, in a short time so vitiates the atmosphere of the room in which the fruit is kept, that it will at once extinguish a candle, and destroy animal life. An atmosphere of this kind tends to preserve the fruit. There being little or no oxygen left in the air of the room, the process of decay is arrested. Hence it is desirable that the room be air tight, in order to maintain such an atmosphere." The production of carbonic acid shows that a cellar in or under a dwelling, is an improper place for storing fresh fruit. When the gas is present in the air in sufficient proportion, it causes death, and a very small quantity will cause headache, listlessness, and other unpleasant effects. No doubt many l84 SCIENCE IM THE KITCHEN. troubles attributed to malaria, are due to gases from vegetables and fruits stored in the cellar. A fruit cellar should be under- neath some other building rather than the dwelling, or a fruit house may be built entirely above the ground. A house to keep fruit properly must be built upon the principle of a refrig- erator. Its walls, floor, and ceiling should be double, and the space between filled with sawdust. The doors and windows should be double ; and as light is undesirable, the windows should be provided with shutters. There should be a small stove for use if needed to keep a proper temperature in severe weather. To Eeep Grapes. — Select such bunches as are perfect, rejecting all upon which there are any bruised grapes, or from which a grape has fallen. Spread them upon shelves in a cool place for a week or two. Then pack in boxes in sawdust which has been recently well dried in an oven. Bran which has been dried may also be used. Dry cotton is em- ployed by some. Keep in a cool place. Some consider the following a more efficient method : Select perfect bunches, and dip the broken end of the stems in melted paraffine or seal- ing wax. Wrap separately in tissue paper, hang in a cool place, or pack in sawdust. To Keep Lemons and Oranges. — Lemons may be kept fresh for weeks by placing them in a vessel of cold water in a very cool cellar or ice house. Change the water every day. Oranges may be kept in the same way. The usual method employed by growers for keeping these fruits is to wrap each one separately in tissue paper, and put in a cool, dry place. To Keep Cranberries. — Put them in water and keep in a cool place where they will not freeze. Change the water often, and sort out berries which may have become spoiled. FRUITS. 185 COOKED FRUIT. Perfectly ripe fruit is, as a rule, more desirable used fresh than in any other way. Fruits which are immature, require cooking. Stewing and baking are the simplest methods of cooking fruits, and nearly all kinds admit of one of these modes of preparation. General Suggestions for Cooking Fruit. — The utensils for stewing should be porcelain-lined, or granite ware. Fruit cooked in tin loses much of its delicate flavor ; while if it be acid, and the tin of poor quality, there is always danger that the acid of the fruit acting upon the metal will form a poison- ous compound. Cover with a china plate or granite-ware cover, never with a tin one, as the steam will condense and run down into the kettle, discoloring the contents. Use only silver knives for preparing the fruit, and silver or wooden spoons for stirring. Prepare just before cooking, if you would preserve the fruit perfect in flavor, and unimpaired by discoloration. In prepar- ing apples, pears, and quinces for stewing, it is better to divide the fruit into halves or quarters before paring. The fruit is more easily handled, can be pared thinner and cored more quickly. Peaches, apricots, and plums, if divided and stoned before paring, can be much more easily kept whole. Cook in a small quantity of boiling water, and if economy is a point to be considered, do not add sugar until the fruit is done. Sugar boiled with an acid will be converted into glucose, two and one half pounds of which only equal one pound of cane sugar in sweetening properties. It will require a much larger amount of sugar to sweeten fruit if added before the cooking process is completed. Fruit should be cooked by stewing, or by gentle simmering ; hard boiling will destroy the fine flavor of all fruits, and especially of berries and other smal' fruits. Cinnamon, cloves, or other spices, should not be added, as their stronger flavors deaden or obliterate the natural flavor, which should always be preserved as perfectly as possible. If desirable to add some foreign flavor, let it be the flavor of an- l86 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. other fruit, or the perfume of flowers. For instance, flavor apple with lemon, pineapple, quince, or rose water. Unripe fruit is improved by making the cooking quite lengthy, which acts in the place of the ripening process, chang- ing the starchy matter to saccharine elements. In cooking fruit, try to preserve its natural form. The more nearly whole it is, the better it looks, and the more natural will be its flavor. Apples are best cooked by baking. Pears and quinces are also excellent baked. The oven should be only moderately hot ; if the heat is too great, they brown on the outside be- fore they are done throughout. In cooking fruit by any method, pains should be taken to cook together such as are of the same variety, size, and degree of hardness ; if it is to be cut in pieces, care should be taken to have the pieces of uniform size. REC/PES. Baked Apples. — Moderately tart apples or very juicy sweet ones are best for baking. Select ripe apples, free from imperfections, and of nearly equal size. Wipe carefully and remove the blossom ends. Water sufficient to cover bottom of the baking dish should be added if the fruit is not very juicy. If the apples are sour and quite firm, a good way is to pare them before baking, and then place them in an earthen pie dish with a little hot water. If they incline to brown too quickly, cover the tops with a granite-ware pie dish. If the syrup dries out, add a little more hot water. When done, set them away till nearly cold, then transfer to a glass dish, pour the syrup, which should be thick and amber colored, over them. Sour apples are excellent pared, cored, and baked with the centers filled with sugar, jelly, or a mixture of chopped raisins and dates. They should be put into a shallow earthen dish with water sufficient to cover the bottom, and baked in a quick oven, basting often with the syrup. Sweet apples are best baked without paring. Baked apples are usually served as a relish, but with a dressing of cream they make a most delicious dessert. Citron Apples. — Select a few tart apples of the same degree of hii4 ness, and remove the cores. Unless the skins are very tender, it is better to pare them. Fill the cavities with sugar, first placing in each apple a few bits of chopped citron. If the skins have_been removed, place the stuffed apples on a ilat earthen dish with a tablespoonful of water on the bottom ; cover closely, and bake till perfectly tender, but not till they have fallen to pieces. If the skins are left on, they may be baked without FRUITS. 107 covering. When cold, serve in separate dishes, with or without a spoon- ful or two of whipped cream on each apple. Lemon Apples. — Prepare tart apples the same as for citron apples. Fill the cavities made by removing the cores with a mixture of grated lemon and sugar, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over each apple, and bake. Serve with or without whipped cream. Baked Pears. — Hard pears make an excellent dessert when baked. Pare, halve, remove seeds, and place in a shallow earthen dish, with a cup of water to each two quarts of fruit. If the pears are sour, a little sugar may be added. Bake, closely covered, in a moderate oven until tender. Serve with sugar and cream. Tart pears are the best for bak- ing, as the sweet varieties are often tasteless. Baked Quinces. — Pare and remove the cores. Fill the cavities with sugar, put in a shallow earthen dish, and add water to cover the bottom ; bake till soft, basting often with the syrup. If the syrup dries out before the fruit is perfectly tender, add a little more hot water. Pippins and Qnince. — Pare and quarter nice golden pippins, and cook in boiling water until reduced to a jelly. Add two or three quinces sliced, and simmer slowly in the jelly until the quince is tender. Add sugar to taste. Serve cold. Baked Apple Sauce. — Pare, core, and quarter apples to fill an earthen crock or deep pudding dish, taking care to use apples of the same degree of hardness, and pieces of the same size. For two quarts of fruit thus prepared, add a cup of water, and if the apples are sour, a cup of sugar. Cover closely, and bake in a moderate oven several hours, or until of a dark red color. Sweet apples and quinces in the proportion of two parts of apple to one of quince, baked in this way, are also good. Cut the apples into quarters, but slice the quinces much thinner, as they are more difficult to cook. Put a layer of quince on the bottom of the dish, alternating with a layer of apple, until the dish is full. Add cold water to half cover the fruit, and stew in the oven well covered, without stirring, until tender. Pears may be cooked in a similar way, and both apples and pears thus cooked may be canned while hot and kept for a long period. Baked Apple Sauce No. 2. — Prepare nice tart apples as for No. i. Bake, with a small quantity of water, in a covered pudding dish, in a moderate oven, until soft. Mash with a spoon, add sugar, and when cold, a little grated orange rind. Apples Stewed Whole. — Take six large red apples, wash carefully, and put in a fruit kettle with just enough boiling water to cover. Cover the kettle, and cook slowly until the apples are soft, with the skins broken and the juice a rich red color. After removing the apples, boil the juice to a syrup, sweeten, and pour over the apples. l83 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Steamed Apples. — Select pound sweets of uniform size, wipe, cut out the blossom-ends, and pack in a large pudding dish. Pour in a cupful of water, cover the dish closely, set in a moderate oven, and steam till the apples are tender. Remove from the dish, and pour the liquor over them frequently as they cool. Compote of Apples. — Pare and extract the cores from moderately tart, juicy apples. Place them in a deep pudding dish with just enough watei to cover them. Cover, place in a moderate oven, and stew until they are tender. Remove the apples and place in a deep dish to keep hot. Measure the juice and pour it into a saucepan, add a few bits of lemon rind, and boil up until thickened almost like a jelly. While the juice is boiling, heat some sugar, one tablespoonful to each cup of juice, in the oven, and add to the juice when thickened. Pour scalding hot over the apples, and cover until cold. Apple Compote No. 2. — Pare eight or ten rather tart, finely flavored and easy-cooking apples, carefully removing the cores, and put them into a broad, shallow, granite- ware saucepan with just enough hot water to cover the bottom. Cover tightly and place over the fire. The steam will cook the apples tender in a short time. Do not allow them to fall to pieces. Make a syrup by dissolving one half cup of sugar in a pint of hot water. Add three teaspoonfuls of the juice of canned pineapple, and pour over the apples while both are hot. Stewed Pears. — Select some fine Bartlett pears which are ripe, but have hardly begun to soften ; remove the skins, cut in halves or quarters, and take out the seeds. Put loosely in a granite-ware kettle, and add a pint of water for three and a half quarts of fruit. Cover closely, and when it begins to boil, set it where it will just simmer until the top pieces are tender. Serve cold. Sugar will not be necessary if the fruit is of good quality. Smooth Apple Sauce. — If fruit is not sufficiently perfect to be cut into uniform quarters, a good way to prepare it is to pare, core, and slice into thin slices. Cook in as small a quantity of water as possible, the fruit covered closely, so that the top portion will steam tender as soon as the bottom, and when done rub through a colander, or beat smooth with a wooden spoon or an egg beater. Let it cool before adding sugar. A little lemon peel may be added to the fruit just long enough before it is done to flavor it, if desired. Boiled Apples with Syrup. — Halve and remove the cores of a half lozen nice apples, leaving the skins on. Boil till tender in sufficient water to cover them. Take out with a fork into a glass dish. Add to the juice three or four sUces of a large lemon ; boil for ten or fifteen \ninutes ; sweeten to taste ; then pour over the apples, and cool. FRUITS. 189 Stewed Apples. — Select fine fruit of a sub-acid flavor and not over- ripe. Pare, remove the cores and all blemishes, and divide into sixths if large, into quarters if small. Put into a porcelain or granite-ware kettle with enough boiling water to cook and leave a good liquor. Cover, and simmer gently, without stirring, from one to two hours. Do not add sugar till cold. Be careful not to break the fruit in serving. Stewed Crab Apples. — Select perfect fruit. Wash and stew in but little water until they are very soft. Rub through a coarse sieve or colander to remove the seeds and skins. Sweeten to taste. Sweet Apple Sauce with Condensed Apple Juice. — For the juice, wash, divide, and core rather tart apples and cook until softened with one cup of water for every six pounds of fruit. When soft, put into a percolater and drain off the juice or extract it with a fruit press. Boil until it is re- duced one half. Skim if needed while boiling, and if not perfectly clea^ allow it to settle before using. A considerable quantity of the juice may be thus prepared and put into stone jars, to be used as needed. For the sauce, pare, core, and quarter sweet apples. Put into a porcelain kettle with enough of the condensed juice to cover. Cook slowly until tender. Apples with Raisins. — Pare, core, and quarter a dozen or more me- dium sized sour apples. Clean thoroughly one fourth as many raisins as apples, and turn over them a quart of boiling water. Let them steep until well swollen, then add the apples, and cook until tender. Sugar to sweeten may be added if desired, although little will be needed unless the apples are very tart. Dried apples soaked over night may be made much more palatable by stewing with raisins or English currants, in the same way. Apples with Apricots. — Pare, core, and quarter some nice, sour apples. Put them to cook with two halves of dried apricot for each apple. When tender, make smooth by beating or rubbing through a col- ander, and sweeten. Dried apples may be used in the place of fresh ones. Peaches, Plums, Cherries, Berries, and all small fruits may be cooked for sauce by stewing in a small amount of water, adding sugar to sweeten when done. Baked Apples. — Take any good tart apples ; peel, cut in halves, and remove the cores. Scatter a few spoonfuls of sugar in the bottom of a dish, and lay the apples in, flat side down ; add a teacupful of cold water, and bake till tender. Let stand in the dish till cold, then take up the pieces in a vegetable dish, and pour over them what juice remains. Sweet apples are good baked in this way without sugar. Baked Pears. — Peel ripe pears ; cut in halves, and pack in layers in a stone ware jar. Strew a little sugar over each layer, and add a small cupful of water, to prevent burning. Cover tightly, and bake three or igO SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. four hours in a well-heated oven. L,et them get very cold, and serve with sweet cream. Baked Peaches. — Peaches which are ripe but too hard for eating, are nice baked. Pare, remove the stones, and place in loose layers in a shallow, earthen pudding dish with a little water. Sprinkle each layer lightly with sugar, cover and bake. Ci'anberries. — Cranberries make an excellent sauce, but the skins are rather hard of digestion, and it is best to exclude them. Stew in the pro- portion of a quart of berries to a pint of water, simmering gently until the skins have all burst, and the quantity is reduced to a pint. Put through a colander to remove the skins, and when nearly cool, add for the quart of berries two thirds of a cup of sugar. Cranberries with Raisins. — Cook the cranberries as in the preceding tecipe, and when rubbed through the colander, add for every pound of cranberries before cooking, one fourth pound of raisins which have been steeped for half an hour in just sufficient boiling water to cover. A little less sugar will be needed to sweeten than when served without the raisins. Cranberries and Sweet Apples. — Stew equal parts of cranberries and sweet apples together. Mash, rub through a fine sieve or colander to remove the skins and make the whole homogeneous. This makes a very palatable sauce without the addition of sugar. California prunes and cranberries stewed together in equal proportion, in a small quantity of water, also make a nice sauce without sugar. Orang'es and Apples. — The mild, easy cooking, tart varieties of apples make an excellent sauce stewed with one third sliced oranges from which the seeds have been removed. Pare, core, and slice the apples, and cook gently so as to preserve the form of both fruits until the apples are tender. Add sugar to sweeten, and if desired a very little of the grated yellow of the orange rind. Stewed Raisins. — Soak a pint of good raisins, cleaned and freed from stems, in cold water for several hours. When ready to cook, put them, with the water in which they were soaked, in a fruit kettle and simmer until the skins are tender. Three or four good-sized figs, chopped quite fine, cooked with the raisins, gives an additional richness and thickness of juice. No sugar will be needed. Dried Apples. — Good apples properly dried make a very palatable sauce ; but unfortunately the fruit generally selected for drying is of so inferior a quality that if cooked in its fresh state it would not be good. The dried fruit in most of our markets needs to be looked over carefully, and thoroughly washed before using. Put into a granite-ware kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook gently until tender. Fresh steam-dried or evaporated apples will cook in from one half to three fourths of an hour ; if older, they may require from one to two or more hours. Add FRUITS. 191 boiling water, as needed, during the cooking. If when tender they are lacking in juice, add a little boiling water long enough before lifting from the fire to allow it to boil up once. If the fruit is very poor, a few very thin slices of the yellow portion of lemon or orange rind added a half hour before it is done, will sometimes be an improvement. Dried Apples with Other Dried Fruit. — An excellent sauce may be made by cooking a few dried plums with dried or evaporated apples. Only enough of the plums to give a flavor to the apples will be needed ; a hand- ful of the former to a pound of apples will be sufficient. Dried cherries, raisins, English currants, dried apricots, prunelles, and peaches are also excellent used in combination with dried apples. Dried Apricots and Peaclies. — These fruits, if dried with the skins on, need, in addition to the preparation for cooking recommended for dried apples, a thorough rubbing with the fingers, while being washed, to remove the down. Put into boiling water in about the proportion of two parts of fruit to three of water. If the fruit was pared before drying, a little more water will be required. Cook quickly, but gently, until just tender, and take from the fire as soon as done. If too soft, they will be mushy and insipid. Evaporated Peach Sauce. — Soak the peaches over night in just enough water to cover. In the morning put to cook in boiling water. When tender, sweeten and beat perfectly smooth with an egg beater. Dried Pears. — These may be treated in the same way as dried apples. Small Fruits. — These when dried must be carefully examined, thor- oughly washed, and then cooked rather quickly in boiling water. They swell but little, do not require much water, and usually cook in a few minutes. They should be taken from the fire as soon as soft, as long standing makes them insipid. Prunes. — Use only the best selected prunes. Clean by putting them into warm water ; let them stand a few minutes, rubbing them gently between the hands to make sure that all dust and dirt is removed ; rinse, and if rather dry and hard, put them into three parts of water to one of prunes ; cover closely, and let them simmer for several hours. If the prunes are quite easily cooked, less water may be used. They will be tender, with a thick juice. The sweet varieties need no sugar whatever. Many persons who cannot eat fruit cooked with sugar, can safely partake of sweet prunes cooked in this way. A slice of lemon added just before the prunes are done, is thought an improvement. Prune Marmalade. — Cook sweet California prunes as directed above. When well done, rub through a colander to remove the skins and stones. No sugar is necessary. If the pulp is too thin when cold, it may be covered in an earthen pudding dish and §tewed down by placing in a pan of hot water in a moderate oven. 192 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. THE PRESERVATION OF FRUIT. Fresh fruit is so desirable, while at the same time the season during which most varieties can be obtained is so transient, that various methods are resorted to for preserving it in as nearly a natural state as possible. The old-fashioned plans of pickling in salt, alcohol, or vinegar, or preserving in equal quantities of sugar, are eminently unhygienic. Quite as much to be condemned is the more modern process of keeping fruit by adding to it some preserving agent, like salicylic acid or other chemicals. Salicylic acid is an antiseptic, and like many other substances, such as carbolic acid, creosote, etc., has the power of preventing the decay of organic substances. Sali- cylic acid holds the preference over other drugs of this class, because it imparts no unpleasant flavor to the fruit. It is nevertheless a powerful and irritating drug, and when taken, even in small doses, produces intense burning in the stomach, and occasions serious disturbances of the heart and other organs. Its habitual use produces grave diseases. What is sold as antifermentive is simply the well-known antiseptic, salicylate of soda. It should be self-evident to one at all acquainted with the philosophy of animal existence, that an agent which will prevent fermentation and decay must be sufficiently powerful in its influence to prevent digestion also. The fermentation and decay of fruits as well as that of all other organic substances, is occasioned by the action of those minute living organisms which scientists call germs, and which are everywhere present. These germs are very much less active in a dry, cold atmosphere, and fruit may be pre- served for quite a long period by refrigeration, an arrangement whereby the external air is excluded, and the surrounding at- mosphere kept at an equal temperature of about 40° F. The most efficient and wholesome method of preserving fruit, how- ever, is destruction of the germs and entire exclusion from the air. The germs are destroyed at a boiling temperature ; hence, if fruit be heated to boiling, and when in this condition sealed in air-tight receptacles, it will keep for an unlimited period. FRUITS. 193 CANNING FRUIT. Canning consists in sealing in air-tight cans or jars, fruit which has been previously boiled. It is a very simple pro- cess, but requires a thorough understanding of the scientific principles involved, and careful management, to make it suc- cessful. The result of painstaking effort is so satisfactory, however, it is well worth all the trouble, and fruit canning need not be a difficult matter if attention is given to the fol- lowing details : — Select self-sealing glass cans of some good variety. Tin cans give more trouble filling and sealing, are liable to affect the flavor of the fruit, and unless manufactured from the best of material, to impair its wholesomeness. Glass cans may be used more than once, and are thus much more economical. Those with glass covers, or porcelain-lined covers, are best. Test the cans to see if they are perfect, with good rubbers and covers that fit closely, by partly filling them with cold water, screwing on the tops, and placing bottom upward upon the table for some time before using. If none of the water leaks out, they may be considered in good condition. If the cans have been previously used, examine them with special care to see that both cans and covers have been carefully cleaned, then thoroughly sterilize them, and fit with new rubbers when necessary. Cans and covers should be sterilized by boiling in water for half an hour, or by baking in an oven, at a temperature suffi- cient to scorch paper, for two hours. The cans should be placed in the water or oven when cold, and the temperature allowed to rise gradually, to avoid breaking. They should be allowed to cool gradually, for the same purpose. Select only the best of fruit, such as is perfect in flavor and neither green nor over-ripe. Fruit which has been shipped from a distance, and which is consequently not perfectly fresh, contains germs in active growth, and if the least bit musty, it will be almost sure to spoil, even though the greatest care may be taken in canning. 13 194 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Poor fruit will not be improved by canning ; over-ripe fruit will be insipid and mushy ; and though cooking will soften hard fruit, it cannot impart to it the delicate flavors which be- long to that which is in its prime. The larger varieties of fruit should not be quite soft enough for eating. Choose a dry day for gathering, and put up at once, handling as little as possi- ble. Try to keep it clean enough to avoid washing. If the fruit is to be pared, use a silver knife for the purpose, as steel is apt to discolor the fruit. If the fruit is one needing to be divided or stoned, it will be less likely to become broken if divided before paring. Cook the fruit slowly in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware kettle, using as little water as possible. It is better to cook only small quantities at a time in one kettle. Steaming in the cans is preferable to stewing, where the fruit is at all soft. To do this, carefully fill the cans with fresh fruit, packing it quite closely, if the fruit is large, and set the cans in a boiler partly filled with cold water, with something underneath them to prevent breaking, — muffin rings, straw, or thick cloth, or any- thing to keep them from resting on the bottom of the boiler (a rack made by nailing together strips of lath is very con- venient) ; screw the covers on the cans so the water cannot boil into them, but not so tightly as to prevent the escape of steam ; heat the water to boiling, and steam the fruit until ten- der. Peaches, pears, crab apples, etc., to be canned with a syrup, may be advantageously cooked by placing on a napkin in a steamer, over a kettle of boiling water until tender, then dropped into the boiling syrup. Fruit for canning should be so thoroughly cooked that every portion of it will have been subjected to a sufficient degree of heat to destroy all germs within the fruit, but over- cooking should be avoided. The length of time required for cooking fruits for canning, varies with the kind and quality of fruit and the manner of cooking. Fruit is more frequently spoiled by being cooked an insufficient length of time, than by over-cooking. Prolonged cooking at a boiling temperature is necessary for the destruction of certain kinds of germs capable FRUITS. 195 of inducing fermentation. Fifteen minutes may be considered as the shortest time for which even the most delicate fruits should be subjected to the temperature of boiling water, and thirty minutes will be required by most fruits. Fruits which are not perfectly fresh, or which have been shipped some dis- tance, should be cooked not less than thirty minutes. The boiling should be very slow, however, as hard, rapid boiling will break up the fruit, and much of its fine flavor will be lost in the steam. Cooking the sugar with the fruit at the time of canning, is not to be recommended from an economical standpoint ; but fruit thus prepared is more likely to keep well than when cooked without sugar ; not, however, because of the preserva- tive influence of the sugar, which is too small in amount to prevent the action of germs, as in the case of preserves, but because the addition of sugar to the water or fruit juice in- creases its specific gravity, and thus raises the boiling point. From experiments made, I have found that the temperature of the fruit is ordinarily raised about 5° by the addition of the amount of sugar needed for sweetening sub-acid fruit. By the aid of this additional degree of heat, the germs are more cer- tainly destroyed, and the sterilization of the fruit will be accomplished in a shorter time. Another advantage gained in cooking sugar with the fruit at the time of canning, is that the fruit may be cooked for a longer time without destroying its form, as the sugar abstracts the juice of the fruit, and thus slightly hardens it and prevents its falling in pieces. The temperature to which the fruit is subjected may also be increased hy the same method as that elsewhere described for sterilizing milk, the covers of the cans being screwed down tightly before they are placed in the sterilizer, or as soon as the boiling point is approached, so that the steam issues freely from the can. See page 369. If this method is employed, it must be remembered that the cans should not be removed from the sterilizer until after they have become cold, or nearly so, by being allowed to stand over night. 196 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Use the best sugar, two tablespoonfuls to a quart of fruit is sufficient for most sub-acid fruits, as berries and peaehes ; plums, cherries, strawberries, and currants require from five to eight tablespoonfuls of sugar to a quart. Have the sugar hot, by spreading it on tins and heating in the oven, stirring occasionally. See that it does not scorch. Add it when the fruit is boiling. Pears, peaches, apples, etc., which contain a much smaller quantity of juice than do berries, may be canned in a syrup prepared by dissolving a cup of sugar in two or three cups of water. Perfect fruit, properly canned, will keep without sugar, and the natural flavor of the fruit is more per- fectly retained when the sugar is left out, adding the necessary amount when opened for use. If the fruit is to be cooked previous to being put in the cans, the cans should be heated before the introduction of the fruit, which should be put in at a boiling temperature. Vari- ous methods are employed for this purpose. Some wrap the can in a towel wrung out of hot water, keeping a silver spoon inside while it is being filled ; others employ dry heat by keeping the cans in a moderately hot oven while the fruit is cooking. Another and surer way is to fill a large dishpan nearly full of scalding (not boiling) water, then gradually introduce each can, previously baked, into the water, dip it full of water, and set it right side up in the pan. Repeat the process with pthijr cans until four or five are ready. Put the covers like- wise into boiling water. Have in readiness for use a. granite- ware funnel and dipper, also in boiling water ; a cloth for wiping the outside of the cans, a silver fork or spoon, a dish for emptyings, and a broad shallow pan on one side of the range, half filled with boiling water, in which to set the cans while being filled. When everything is in readiness, the fruit properly cooked, and af a boiling temperature, turn one of the cans down in the water, roll it over once or twice, empty it, and set in the shallow pan of hot water ; adjust the funnel, and then place first in the can a quantity of juice, so that when the fruit is put in, no vacant places will be left for air, which is FRUITS. t97 sometimes quite troublesome if this precaution is not taken ; then add the fruit. If any bubbles of air chance to be left, work them out with a fork or spoon handle, which first dip in boiling water, and then quickly introduce down the sides of the jar and through the fruit in such a way that not a bubble will remain. Fill the can to overflowing, remembering that any vacuum invites the air to enter ; use boiling water or syrup when there is not enough juice. Skim all froth from the fruit, Canning Utensils. adding more juice if necessary ; wipe the juice from the top of the can, adjust the rubber, put on the top, and screw it down as quickly as possible. If the fruit is cooked in the cans, as soon as it is sufficiently heated, fill the can completely full with boiling juice, syrup, or water ; run the handle of a silver spoon around the inside of the can, to make sure the juice entirely surrounds every portion of fruit, and that no spaces for air remain, put on the rubbers, wipe off all juice, and seal quickly. 198 SCIENCE I>f THE KITCHEN. As the fruit cools, the cover can be tightened, and this should be promptly done again and again as the glass contracts, so that no air may be allowed to enter. If inconvenient to fill the cans directly from the stove, the fruit may be kept at boiling heat by placing the kettle on a lamp stove on the table, on which the other utensils are in readiness. Many failures in fruit canning are due to neglect to have the fruit boiling hot when put into the cans. When the cans are filled, set them away from currents of air, and not on a very cold surface, to avoid danger of crack- ing. A good way is to set the cans on a wet towel, and cover with a woolen cloth as a protection from draughts. After the cans have cooled, and the tops have been screwed down tightly, place them in a cool place, bottom upward, and watch closely for a few days. If the juice begins to leak out, or any appearance of fermentation is seen, it is a sign that the work has failed, and the only thing to do is to open the can im- mediately, boil the fruit, and use as quickly as possible ; re-can- ning will not save it unless boiled a long time. If no signs of spoiling are observed within two or three weeks, the fruit may be safely stored away in a dark, cool place. If one has no dark storeroom, it is an advantage to wrap each can in brown pa- per, to keep out the light. Sometimes the fruit will settle so that a little space ap- pears at the top. If you are perfectly sure that the can is tight, do not open to refill, as you will be unable to make it quite as tight again, unless you reheat the fruit, in which case you would be liable to have the same thing occur again. Air is dangerous because it is likely to contain germs, though in itself harmless. If mold is observed upon the top of a can, it should be opened, and the fruit boiled and used at once, after carefully skimming out all moldy portions. If there is evidence of fer- mentation, the fruit should be thrown away, as it contains alcohol. If care be taken to provide good cans, thoroughly sterilized, and with perfectly fitting covers ; to use only fruit in good FRUITS. 199 condition ; to have it thoroughly cooked, and at boiling tem- perature when put into the cans ; to have the cans well baked and heated, filled completely and to overflowing, and sealed at once while the fruit is still near boiling temperature, there will be little likelihood of failure. Opening Canned Fruit. — Canned fruit is best opened a short time before needed, that it may be well aerated ; and if it has been canned without sugar, it should have the necessary quantity added, so that it may be well dissolved before using. Fruit or vegetables canned in tin cans should be removed from the cans as soon as opened. If not, the action of the air sometimes causes the acid of the fruit or vegetables to act upon the tin and form a poisonous compound. Fruit purchased in tin cans should be selected with the utmost care, since unscrupulous dealers sometimes use cans which render the fruit wholly unfit for food. The following rules which we quote from a popular scien- tific journal should be carefully observed in selecting canned fruit : — "Reject every can that does not have the name of the manufacturer or firm upon it, as well as the name of the company and the town where manufactured. All ' Stand- ards ' have this. When the wholesale dealer is ashamed to have his name on the goods, be shy of him. " Reject every article of canned goods which does not show the line of resin around the edge of the solder of the cap, the same as is seen on the seam at the side of the can. " Press up the bottom of the can ; if decomposition is begin- ning, the tin will rattle the same as the bottom of your sewing- machine oil can does. If the goods are sound, it will be solid, and there will be no rattle to the tin. " Reject every can that shows any rust around the cap, on the inside of the head of the can. Old and battered cans should be rejected ; as, if they have been used several times, the contents are liable to contain small amounts of tin or lead." 200 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. RECIPES. To Can Strawberries.— These are generally considered more difficult to can than most other berries. Use none but sound fruit, and put up the day they are picked, if possible. Heat the fruit slowly to the boiling point, and cook fifteen minutes or longer, adding the sugar hot, if any be used, alter the fruit is boiling. Strawberries, while cooking, have a ten- dency to rise to the top, and unless they are kept pushed down, will not be cooked uniformly, which is doubtless on« reason they sometimes fail to keep well. The froth should also be kept skimmed off. Fill the cans as directed on page 197, taking special care to let out every air bubble, and to remove every particle of froth from the top of the can before sealing. If the berries are of good size, they may be cooked in the cans, adding a boiling syrup prepared with one cup of water and one Of sugar for each quart can of fruit. If after the cans are cold, the fruit rises to the top, as it frequently does, take the cans and gently shake until the fruit is well saturated with the juice and falls by its own weight to the bottom, or low enough to be entirely covered with the liquid. To Can Raspberries, Blackberries, and Other Small Fruits. — Select none but good, sound berries ; those freshly picked are best ; reject any green, over-ripe, mashed, or worm-eaten fruit. If necessary to wash the berries, do so by putting a quart at a time in a colander, and dipping the dish carefully into a pan of clean water, letting it stand for a moment. If the water is very dirty, repeat the process in a second water. Drain thoroughly, and if to be cooked previous to putting in the cans, put into a porcelain kettle with a very small quantity of water, and heat slowly to boiling. If sugar is to be used, have it hot, but do not add it until the fruit is boiling ; and before doing so, if there is much juice, dip out the surplus, and leave the berries with only a small quantity, as the sugar will have a tendency to draw out more juice, thus furnishing plenty for syrup. Raspberries are so juicy that they need scarcely more than a pint of water to two quarts of fruit. The fruit may be steamed in the cans if preferred. When thoroughly scalded, if sugar is to be used, fill the can with a boiling syrup made by dissolving the requisite amount of sugar in water ; if to be canned with- out sugar, fill up the can with boiling water or juice. Seal the fruit according to directions previously given. To Can Gooseberries.— Select such as are smooth and turning red, but not fully ripe ; wash and remove the stems and blossom ends. For three quarts of fruit allow one quart of water. Heat slowly to boiling ; cook FRUITS. 20I fifteen minutes, add a cupful of sugar which has been heated dry in the oven ; boil two or three minutes longer, and can. To Can Peaches. — Select fruit which is perfectly ripe and sound, but not very much softened. Free-stone peaches are the best. Put a few at a time in a wire basket, and dip into boiling water for a moment, and then into Cold water, to cool the fruit sufficiently to handle with comfort. The skins may then be rubbed or peeled off easily, if done quickly, and the fruit divided into halves ; or wipe with a clean cloth to remove all dirt and the wool, and with a silver knife cut in halves, remove the stone, and then pare each piece, dropping it into cold water at once, to prevent discolora- tion. Peaches cut before being pared are less likely to break in pieces while removing the stones. When ready, pour a cupful of water in the bottom of the kettle, and fill with peaches, scattering sugar among the layers, in the proportion of a heaping tablespoonful to a quart of fruit. Heat slowly, boil fifteen minutes or longer till a silver fork can be easily passed through the pieces ; can in the usual way, and seal ; or, fill the cans with the halved peaches, and place them in a boiler of warm water with something underneath to avoid breaking ; cook until perfectly tender. Have ready a boiling syrup prepared with one half cup of sugar and two cups of water, and pour into each can all that it will hold, remove air bubbles, cover and seal. A few of the pits may be cooked in the syrup, and removed before adding to the fruit, when their special flavor is desired. Another Method. — After paring and halving the fruit, lay a clean napkin in the bottom of a steamer ; fill with the fruit. Steam until a fork will easily penetrate the pieces. Have ready a boiling syrup prepared as directed above, put a few spoonfuls in the bottom of the hot cans, and dip each piiece of fruit gently in the hot syrup ; then as Carefully place it in the jars. Fill with the syrup, and finish in the usual way. Peaches canned without sugar, retain more nearly their natural flavor. To prepare in this way, allow one half pint of water to each pound of fruit. Cook slowly until tender, and can in the usual manner. When wanted for the table, open an hour before needed, and sprinkle lightly with sugar. To Can Pears. — The pears should be perfectly ripened, but not soft. Pare with a silver knife, halve or quarter, remove the seeds, and drop into a pan of cold water to prevent discoloration. Prepare a syrup, allowing a cup of sugar and a quart of water to each two quarts of fruit. When the syrup boils, put the pears into it very carefully, so as not to bruise or break them, and cook until they look clear and can be easily pierced with a fork. Have the cans heated, and put in first a little of the syrup, then pack in the pears very carefully ; fill to overflowing with the scalding syrup, and finish as previously directed. The tougher and 202 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. harder varieties of pears must be cooked till nearly tender in hot water, or steamed over a kettle of boiling water, before adding to the syrup, and may then be finished as above. If it is desirable to keep the pears whole, cook only those of a uniform size together ; or if of assorted sizes, put the larger ones into the syrup a few minutes before the smaller ones. Some prefer boiling the skins of the pears in the water of which the syrup is to be made, and skimming them out before putting in the sugar. This is thought to impart a finer flavor. Pears which are very sweet, or nearly tasteless, may be improved by using the juice of a large lemon for each quart of syrup. Pears may be cooked in the cans, if preferred. To Can Plmns. — Green Gages and Damsons are best for canning. Wipe clean with a soft cloth. Allow a half cup of water and the same of sugar to every three quarts of fruit, in preparing a syrup. Pick each plum with a silver fork to prevent it from bursting, and while the syrup is heating, turn in the fruit, and boil until thoroughly done. Dip carefully into hot jars, fill with syrup, and cover immediately. To Can Cherries. — These may be put up whole in the same way as plums, or pitted and treated as directed for berries, allowing about two quarts of water and a scant pint of sugar to five quarts of solid fruit, for the tart varieties, and not quite half as much sugar for the sweeter ones. To Can Mixed Fruit. — There are some fruits with so little flavor that when cooked they are apt to taste insipid, and are much improved by can- ning with some acid or strongly flavored fruits. Blackberries put up with equal quantities of blue or red plums, or in the proportion of one to three of the sour fruit, are much better than either of these fruits canned separately. Black caps are much better if canned with currants, in the proportion of one part currants to four of black caps. Red and black raspberries, cherries and raspberries, are also ex- cellent combinations. Quinces witli Apples. — Pare and cut an equal quantity of firm sweet apples and quinces. First stew the quinces till they are tender in sufficient water to cover. Take them out, and cook the apples in the same water. Lay the apples and quinces in alternate layers in a porce- lain kettle or crock. Have ready a hot syrup made with one part sugar to two and a half parts water, pour over the fruit, and let it stand all night. The next day reheat to boiling, and can. Quinces and sweet apples may be canned in the same way as directed below for plums and sweet apples, using equal parts of apples and quinces, and adding sugar when opened. Plums mth Sweet Apples. — Prepare the plums, and stew in water enough to cover. When tender, skim out, add to the juice an equal FRUITS. 203 quantity of quartered sweet apples, and stew till nearly tender. Add the plums again, boil together for a few minutes, and can. When wanted for the table, open, sprinkle with sugar if any seems needed, let stand awhile, and serve. To Can Grapes. — Grapes have so many seeds that they do not form a very palatable sauce when canned entire. Pick carefully from the stems, wash in a colander the same as directed for berries, and drain. Remove the skins, dropping them into one earthen crock and the pulp into an- other. Place both crocks in kettles of hot water over the stove, and heat slowly, stirring the pulp occasionally until the seeds will come out clean. Then rub the pulp through a colander, add the skins to it, and a cupful of sugar for each quart of pulp. Return to the fire, boil twenty minutes until the skins are tender, and can ; or, if preferred, the whole grapes may be heated, and when well scalded so that the seeds are loosened, pressed through a colander, thus rejecting both seeds and skins, boiled, then sweetened if desired, and canned. To Can Crab Apples. — These may be cooked whole, and canned the same way as plums. To Can Apples. — Prepare and can the same as pears, when fresh and fine in flavor. If old and rather tasteless, the following is a good way : — • Prepare a syrup of the juice of four large or six small lemons, with several thin slices of the yellow part of the rind, four cups of sugar, and three pints of boiling water. Pare and quarter the apples, or if small, only halve them, and cook gently in a broad-bottomed closely-covered saucepan, with as little water as possible, till tender, but not broken ; then pour the syrup over them, heat all to boiling, and can at once. The apples may be cooked by steaming over a kettle of hot water, if preferred. Care must be taken to cook those of the same degree of hardness together. The slices of lemon rind should be removed from the syrup before using. To Can Pineapples. — The writer has had no experience in canning this fruit, but the following method is given on good authority : Pare very carefully with a silver knife, remove all the "eyes" and black specks ; then cut the sections in which the " eyes" were, in solid pieces clear down to the core. By doing this all the valuable part of the fruit is saved, leaving its hard, woody center. As, however, this contains considerable juice, it should be taken in the hands and wrung as one wrings a cloth, till the juice is extracted, then thrown away. Prepare a syrup with one part sugar and two parts water, using what juice has been obtained in place of so much water. Let it boil up, skim clean, then add the fruit. Boil just as little as possible and have the fruit tender, as pineapple loses its flavor by over-cooking more readily than any other fruit. Put into hot cans, and seal. 204 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. FRUIT JEUIES. The excess of sugar commonly employed in preparing jellies often renders them the least wholesome of fruit preparations, and we cannot recommend our readers to spend a great amount of time in putting up a large stock of such articles. The juice of some fruits taken at the right stage of matur- ity may be evaporated to a jelly without sugar, but the process is a more lengthy one, and requires a much larger quantity of juice than when sugar is used. Success in the preparation of fruit jellies depends chiefly upon the amount of pectose contained in the fruit. Such fruits as peaches, cherries, and others containing but a small propor- tion of pectose, cannot be made into a firm jelly. All fruit for jelly should, if possible, be freshly picked, and before it is over-ripe, as it has then a much better flavor. The pec- tose, the jelly-producing element, deteriorates with age, so that jelly made from over-ripe fruit is less certain to " form." If the fruit is under-ripe, it will be too acid to give a pleasant flavor. Examine carefully, as for canning, rejecting all wormy, knotty, unripe, or partially decayed fruit. If necessary to wash, drain very thoroughly. Apples, quinces, and similar fruits may require to be first cooked in a small amount of water. The juice of berries, cur- rants, and grapes, may be best extracted by putting the fruit in a granite-ware double boiler, or a covered earthen crock placed inside a kettle of boiling water, mashing as much as possible with a spoon, and steaming without the addition of water until the fruit is well scalded and broken. For straining the juice, have a funnel-shaped bag made of coarse flannel or strong, coarse linen crash. The bag will be found more handy if a small hoop of wire is sewn around the top and two tapes attached to hang it by while the hot juice is draining, or a wooden frame to support the bag may be easily constructed like the one shown on page 74. A dish to receive the juice should be placed underneath the bag-, FRUITS. 20S which should first be wrung out of hot water, and the scalded fruit, a small quantity at a time, turned in ; then with two large spoons press the sides of the bag well, moving the fruit around in the bag to get out all the juice, and removing the pressed pulp and skins each time before putting in a fresh supply of the hot fruit. If a very clear jelly is desired, the juice must be allowed to drain out without pressing or squeezing. The juice of berries, grapes, and currants may be extracted without the fruit being first scalded, if preferred, by putting the fruit into an earthen or granite-ware dish, and mashing well with a wooden potato masher, then putting into a jelly bag and allow- ing the juice to drain off for several hours. When strained, if the jelly is to be prepared with sugar, measure the juice and pour it into a granite or porcelain fruit kettle with a very broad bottom, so that as much surface can be on the stove as possible. It is better to boil the juice in quan- tities of not more than two or three quarts at a time, unless one has some utensil in which a larger quantity can be cooked with no greater depth of liquid than the above quantity would give in a common fruit kettle. The purpose of the boiling is to evaporate the water from the juice, and this can best be ac- complished before the sugar is added. The sugar, if boiled with the juice, also darkens the jelly. The average length of time required for boiling the juice of most berries, currants, and grapes, extracted as previously directed, before adding the sugar, is twenty minutes from the time it begins to bubble all over its surface. It is well to test the jelly occasionally, however, by dropping a small quantity on a plate to cool, since the quantity of juice and the rapidity with which it is boiled, may necessitate some variation in time. In wet seasons, fruits of all kinds absorb more moisture and a little longer boiling may be necessary. The same is true of the juice of fruits gathered after a heavy rain. Jellies prepared with sugar are generally made of equal measures of juice, measured before boiling, and sugar ; but a very scant measure of sugar is sufficient, and a less amount will suffice for many fruits. White granulated sugar is best for all jellie?. 2o6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. While the juice is heating, spread the sugar evenly on shallow tins, and heat in the oven, stirring occasionally to keep it from scorching. If portions melt, no great harm will be done, as the melted portions will form in lumps when turned into the juice, and can be removed with a spoon. When the juice has boiled twenty minutes, turn in the sugar, which should be so hot that the hand cannot be borne in it with comfort, stir- ring rapidly until it is all dissolved. Let the syrup boil again for three or four minutes, then take immediately from the fire. Heat the jelly glasses (those with glass covers are best), by rolling in hot water, and place them in a shallow pan partially filled with hot water, or stand them on a wet, folded towel while filling. If it is desired to have the jelly exception- ally clear and nice, it may be turned through a bag of cheese cloth, previously wrung out of hot water, into the jelly glasses. If the covers of the glasses are not tight fitting, a piece of firm paper should be fitted over the top before putting on the cover, to make it air tight. Pint self-sealing fruit cans are excellent for storing jelly, and if it is sealed in them in the same manner as canned fruit, will keep perfectly, and obviate any supposed necessity for the use of brandied paper as a pre- servative measure. Label each variety, and keep in some cool, dry place. If the jelly is not sufficiently firm when first made, set the glasses in the sunshine for several days, until the jelly becomes more firm. This is better than reheating and boiling again, as it destroys less of the flavor of the fruit. RECIPES. Apple Jelly. — Cut nice tart apples in quarters, but unless wormy, do not peel or core. Put into a porcelain kettle with a cup of water for each six pounds of fruit, and simmer very slowly until the apples are thoroughly cooked. Turn into a jelly-bag, and drain off the juice. If very tart, allow three fourths of a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. If sub-acid, one half pound will be sufficient. Put the sugar into the oven to heat. Clean the kettle, and boil the juice therein twenty minutes after it begins to boil thoroughly. Add the sugar, stirring until well dissolved, let it boil up once again, and remove from the fire. The juice of one lemon may be used with the apples, and a few bits of lemon rind, the yellow portion FRUITS. 207 only, cooked with them to give them a flavor, if liked. One third cran- berry juice makes a pleasing combination. Apple Jelly without Sugar. — Select juicy, white fleshed, sub-acid fruit, perfectly sound and mature, but not mellow. The snow apple is one of the best varieties for this purpose. Wash well, slice, and core without removing the skins, and cook as directed in the preceding recipe. Drain off the juice, and if a very clear jelly is desired, filter it through a piece of cheese cloth previously wrung out of hot water. Boil the juice, — rapidly at first, but more gently as it becomes thickened, — until of the desired consistency. The time required will vary with the quantity of juice, the shallowness of the dish in which it is boiled, and the heat employed. One hour at least, will be required for one or two quarts of juice. When the juice has become considerably evaporated, test it frequently by dipping a few drops on a plate to cool ; and when it jellies sufficiently, remove at once from the fire. A much larger quantity of juice will be needed for jelly prepared in this manner than when sugar is used, about two quarts of juice being required for one half pint of jelly. Such jelly, however, has a most delicious flavor, and is excellent served with grains. Diluted with water, it forms a most pleasing beverage. Berry and Currant Jellies. — Express the juice according to the direc- tions already given. For strawberries, red raspberries, and currants, allow three fourths of a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Black rasp- berries, if used alone, need less sugar. Strawberry and black raspberry juice make better jelly if a little lemon juice is used. The juice of one lemon to each pint of fruit juice will be needed for black raspberries. -Two parts red or black raspberries with one part currants, make a better jelly than either alone. Boil the juice of strawberries, red raspberries, and currants twenty minutes, add the sugar, and finish as previously di- rected. Black raspberry juice is much thicker, and requires less boiling. Cherry Jelly. — Jelly may be prepared from cherries by using with the juice of the cherries an equal quantity of apple juice, which gives an additional amount of pectose to the juice and does not perceptibly change the flavor. Crab Apple Jelly. — Choose the best Siberian crab apples ; cut into pieces, but do not pare or remove seeds. Place in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware double boiler, with a cup of water for each six pounds of fruit, and let them remain on the back of the range, with the water slowly boiling, seven or eight hours. Leave in the boiler or turn into a large china bowl, and keep well covered, all night. In the morning drain off the juice and proceed as for apple jelly, using from one half to three fourths of a pound of sugar to one of juice. Cranberry Jelly. — Scald the berries and express the juice as for other 208 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. jellies. Measure the juice, and allow three fourths of a pound of sugar to one of juice. Boil twenty minutes, add the sugar hot, and finish as directed for other jellies. Grape Jelly. — Jelly from ripe grapes may be prepared in the same manner as that made from the juice of berries. Jelly from green grapes needs one half measure more of sugar. Orange Jelly. — Express the juice of rather tart oranges, and use with it an equal quantity of the juice of sub-acid apples, prepared in the man- ner directed for apple jelly. For each pint of the mixed juice, use one half pound of sugar and proceed as for other jellies. Peach Jelly. — Stone, pare, and slice the peaches, and steam them in a double boiler. Express the juice, and add for each pint of peach juice the juice of one lemon. Measure the juice and sugar, using three fourths of a pound of sugar for each pint of juice, and proceed as already di- rected. Jelly prepared from peaches will not be so firm as many fruit jellies, owing to the small amount of pectose contained in their com- position. A mixture of apples and peaches, in the proportion of one third of the former to two thirds of the latter, makes a firmer jelly than peaches alone. The apples should be pared and cored, so that their flavor will not interfere with that of the peaches. Quince Jelly. — Clean thoroughly good sound fruit, and slice thin. Put into a double boiler with one cup of water for each five pounds of fruit, and cook until softened. Express the juice, and proceed as with other jellies, allowing three fourths of a pound of sugar to each pint of juice. Tart or sweet apples may be used with quinces, in equal pro- portions, and make a jelly of more pleasant flavor than quinces used alone. The seeds of quinces contain considerable gelatinous Substance, and should be cooked with the quince for jelly making. Plum Jelly. — Use Damsons or Green Gages. Stone, and make in the same way as for berry and other small fruit jellies. . Fruit in Jelly. — Prepare some apple jelly without sugar. When boiled sufficiently to form, add to it, as it begins to cool, some nice, stoned dates or seeded raisins. Orange jelly may be used instead of the apple jelly, if preferred. FRUITS. 209 FRUIT JUICES. As sauces for desserts and for summer beverages for sick or well, the pure juices of fruits are most wholesome and deli- cious. So useful are they and so little trouble to prepare, that no housewife should allow the fruit season to pass by without putting up a full stock. Strawberries, raspberries, blackber- ries, currants, grapes, and cherries are especially desirable. In preparing them, select only the best fruit, ripe, but not over- ripe. Extract the juice by mashing the fruit and slowly heat- ing in the inner cup of a double boiler, till the fruit is well scalded ; too long heating will injure its color. Strain through a jelly bag and let it drain slowly for a long time, but do not squeeze, else some of the pulp will be forced through. Reheat slowly to boiling and can the same as fruit. It may be put up with or without sugar. If sugar is to be used, add ii hot as for jelly, after the juice is strained and reheated to boil- ing. For strawberries and currants, raspberries and cherries, use one cup of sugar to a quart of juice. Black raspberries and grapes require less sugar, while blueberries and black- berries require none at all, or not more than a tablespoonful to the quart. A mixed juice, of one part currants and two parts red or black raspberries, has a very superior flavor. REC/PES. Grap'e Juice, or Unfermented Wine. — Take twenty-five pounds of some well ripened very juicy variety of grapes, like the Concord. Pick them from the stems, wash thoroughly, and scald without the addition of water, in double boilers until the grapes burst open ; cool, turn into stout jelly bags, and drain off the juice without squeezing. Let the juice stand and settle ; turn off the top, leaving any sediment there may be. Add to the juice about four pounds of best granulated sugar, reheat to boiling, skim carefully, and can the same as fruit. Keep in a cool, dark place. The wine, if to be sealed in bottles, will require a corker, and the corks should first be boiled in hot water and the bottles well sterilized. Grape Juice No. 2. — Take grapes of the best quality, picked fresh from the vines. Wash well after stripping from the stems, rejecting any imperfect fruit. Put them in a porcelain or granite fruit kettle with one H 210 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. pint of water to every three quarts of grapes, heat to boiling, and cook slowly for fifteen minutes or longer, skimming as needed. Turn off the juice and carefully filter it through a jelly bag, putting the seeds and skins into a separate bag to drain, as the juice from them will be less clear. Heat again to boiling, add one cupful of hot sugar to each quart of juice, and seal in sterilized cans or bottles. The juice from the skins and seeds should be canned separately. Another Method. — Wash the grapes, and express the juice without scalding the fruit. Strain the juice three or four times through muslin or cheese cloth, allowing it to stand and settle for some time between each filtering. To every three pints of juice add one of water and two cupfuls of sugar. Heat to boiling, and keep at that temperature for fifteen minutes, skim carefully, and bottle while at boiling heat. Set away in a cool, dark place. Fruit Syrup. — Prepare the juice expressed from strawberries, rasp- berries, currants, or grapes, as directed above for fruit juices. After it has come to a boil, add one pound of sugar to every quart of juice. Seal in pint cans. It may be diluted with water to form a pleasing beverage, and is especially useful in flavoring puddings and sauces. Currant Syrup. — Boil together a pint of pure currant juice and one half pound of best white sugar for ten minutes, and can or bottle while at boiling temperature. One or two spoonfuls of the syrup in a glass of water makes a most refreshing drink. Two parts currants and one of red raspberries may be used in place of all currants, if preferred. Orange Syrup. — Select ripe and thin-skinned fruit. To every pint of the juice add one pound of sugar, the juice of one lemon, and a little of the grated rind. Boil for fifteen minutes, removing all scum as it rises. If the syrup is not clear, strain through a piece of cheese cloth, and reheat. Can and seal while boiling hot. Lemou Syrup. — Grate the yellow portion of the rind of six lemons, and mix with three pounds of best granulated white sugar. Add one quart of water and boil until it thickens. Stram, add the juice of the six lem- ons, carefully leaving out the pulp and seeds ; boil ten minutes, and bottle. Diluted with two thirds cold water, it forms a delicious and quickly pre- pared lemonade. Lemon Syrup No. 2. — To every pint of lemon juice add one pound of sugar ; boil, skim, and seal in cans like fruit. Blackberry Syrup. — Crush fresh, well-ripened blackberries, and add to them one fourth as much boiling water as berries ; let them stand for twenty-four hours, stirring frequently. Strain, add a cup of sugar to each quart of juice, boil slowly for fifteen minutes, and can. FRUITS. 211 Fi'uit Ices. — Express the juice from a pint of stoned red cherries, add the juice of two lemons, one cup of sugar, and a quart of cold water. Stir well for five minutes, and freeze in an ice cream freezer. Equal parts cur- rant and red raspberry juice may be used instead of cherry, if preferred. DRYING FRUIT. This method of preserving fruit, except in large establish- ments where it is dried by steam, is but little used, since can- ning is quicker and superior in every way. Success in drying fruits is dependent upon the quickness with which they can be dried, without subjecting them to so violent a heat as to burn them, or injure their flavor. Pulpy fruits, such as berries, cherries, plums, etc., should be spread on some convenient flat surface, without contact with each other, and dried in the sun under glass, or in a moderate oven. They should be turned daily. They will dry more quickly if first scalded in a hot oven. Cherries should be first stoned and cooked until well heated through and tender, then spread on plates, and the juice (boiled down to a syrup) poured over them. When dried, they will be moist. Pack in jars. Large fruit, such as apples, pears, and peaches, should be pared, divided, and the seeds or stones removed. If one has but a small quantity, the best plan is to dry by means of artificial heat ; setting it first in a hot oven until heated through, which process starts the juice and forms a film or crust over the cut surfaces, thus holding the remaining quantity of juice inside until it becomes absorbed in the tissues. The drying process maybe finished in a warming oven or some place about the range where the fruit will get only moderate heat. If a larger quantity of fruit is to be dried, after being heated in the oven, it may be placed in the hot sun out of doors, under fine wire screens, to keep off the flies ; or may be suspended from the ceiling in some way, or placed upon a frame made to stand di- rectly over the stove. As the drying proceeds, the fruit should be turned occasionally, and when dry enough, it should be thoroughly heated before it is packed away, to prevent it from getting wormy. 212 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. FRUIT SALADS. The term ' ' salad ' ' is often applied to various unhealthf ul mixtures of food material, but this fact does not necessitate that all salads must be of this character. Simple salads prepared of wholesome ingredients are not only dainty relishes, grateful to the taste and pleasing to the eye, but are valuable adjuncts to a hygienic dietary. Their nutritive value is not high, as they are generally prepared from fruits, vegetable fruits, as the tomato, cucumber, etc., or leaves Hke the lettuce and water cress; but their fluid, acid, and mineral constituents serve an excellent purpose in the vital economy. Salads may be prepared from both raw and cooked material, but if made of more than one sort of fruit or vegetable, only such should be used together as harmonize in taste and digesti- biUty. The material to be used for a salad should be the best and most perfect of its kind. A good salad can not be produced from material of a poor quality. Of all salads, those prepared from fruits are the most whole- some and refreshing; and as nearly every variety of fruit may be used alone or in combination with other fruits for this pur- pose, the fruit salads which may be made are almost numberless. Acid fruits like currants, gathered on stems, dropped into ice water to clean and cool for a half hour, then drained, and served on a bed of fresh currant leaves, either with or without a sprinkling of sugar, make a very simple, dainty salad. The general principles upon which the success of all fruit salads depends, are harmonious combinations in the fruit and dressings used, care and painstaking in putting the materials to- gether, with such garnishing and serving as will make them at- tractive to the eye as well as pleasing to the taste. It is also essential that the salad should stand in a cold place for some time after mixing, to draw out and blend the fine flavors of the fruits. The garnishing of salads affords much opportunity for artistic display. Various edible leaves, small fruits, and slices of fruits are the most commonly used for this purpose. However, when FRUITS. 2 I 3 fruit on the stem is served as a salad, or when served in the rind of a fruit, as banana or orange, a garnish of the natural leaves of the fruit is sometimes admired. The dressing for a fruit salad is preferably the juice of some other fruit, a com- bination of different fruit juices, or a dressing prepared from nuts or nuts and fruit. Recipes are given for the preparation of a few such dressings. Nearly all fruit juices may be used in a similar manner. RECIPES. Orange Dressing. — One cupful of orange juice, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, and from one to three tablespoonfuls of sugar, depending upon the acidity of the oranges. Heat the juice to boiling, and thicken with one tablespoonful of cornstarch or rice flour. If it is preferred not to boil the orange juice, the cornstarch may be cooked in one half cup of water, and while still hot enough to mingle well, the orange and lemon juices added. Care will then need to be taken to beat the sauce thor- oughly, that it may be perfectly smooth, otherwise it will need to be put through a fine sieve. If preferred, the thickening may be omitted. Pineapple Dressing. — Prepare the same as orange dressing, using one cupful of the juice of fresh pineapples in place of the orange juice, or if canned pineapple is used, heat one and one half cups of juice to boiling, thicken with a tablespoonful of arrowroot, and add the lemon and sugar. If preferred, the lemon may be omitted and less sugar used. Miss B.'s Sweet Salad Dressing. — Rub two rounded tablespoonfuls of almond butter smooth with two thirds of a cup of water, add two table- spoonfuls of sugar, and one fourth teaspoonful of salt. Heat to boiling, remove from the stove, and add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. The dressing is especially palatable on finely sliced apples, apples and very ripe bananas, strawberries and bananas, pineapple and apple, orange and pineapple. One part pineapple alone to eight parts of salad dressing makes an excellent pineapple salad, Quince Dressing. — Extract the juice of quince as directed for jelly on page 2o8, boil for a few minutes until of the consistency of cream, Adl sugar to sweeten, and use for sweet or sour apple salad, peach or banana. Raspberry Salad. — Put well-ripened raspberries and currants in alter- nate layers in a salad dish, sprinkling each layer with sugar. Let it stand for an hour on ice, and serve. Stratrberry and Orange Salad. — Sweet oranges peeled and shredded, used in the proportion of three oranges to a quart of well-ripened straw- berries make a very pleasant salad. 214 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Orange and Pineapple. — Use equal parts of seeded oranges cut in small pieces, the white part being carefully removed, and sliced and drained canned pineapple. Cover vi'ith orange dressing, to which, while still hot enough to stiffen it, the well-beaten white of one egg has been added. When thoroughly cold, serve in the halves of orange peel with a garnish of green. If preferred, one third sliced banana may be used with the orange and pineapple. ; Banana Salad. — Slice well-ripened bananas very thin, and serve with a dressing of thick grape pulp. Bananas make a very pleasing salad served with orange, lemon, pine- apple, currant, cherry, or red raspberry dressing. A pleasing way to serve the salad is to preserve the skin of the banana as nearly intact as possible, and fill it with the salad. Banana Salad No. 2. — Remove the skins from six perfectly sound bananas, roll them lightly in sugar, place on a dripper, and bake in a mod- erate oven for twenty minutes. Serve in halves^with a red fruit dressing of cherry, cranberry, red raspberry, or currant juice. Orange and Banana. — Peel and slice four bananas. Peel, tear in sec- tions, and remove the seeds from six sweet oranges. Arrange the fruit in layers, and cover with orange dressing or sprinkle with sugar and pour over it the juice of a large lemon; or use one third each of sliced bananas, shredded orange, and seeded Malaga grapes. Serve with orange or lemon dressing. Peach Salad. — Pare and slice very thin some nice mellow Golden Drop or Crawford peaches, cover with orange dressing, and set on ice for an hour before dinner. Serve heaped in thin glass cups or sauce dishes, each placed upon a small dessert plate with a garniture of peach, nasturtium, or other leaves around the plate, completely hiding the dish io which the salad is served. Peach and Banana Salad. — Take equal quantities of thinly sliced bananas and perfectly ripened mellow peaches. Place them in alternate layers in a large salad bowl, and cover with orange dressing. Set on ice for an hour before serving. Pineapple and Peach Salad. — Place alternate layers of thinly sliced peaches and well-drained canned pineapple in a large china dish, cover with pineapple dressing made with the juice of the canned pineapple. Set on ice for an hour before serving. Pineapple Salad. — Pare and shred well-ripened pineapple, cover with orange dressing, and let it stand for an hour or more before serving; or, use equal parts of shredded pineapple and sliced oranges with a small quantity of orange dressing. FRUITS. 2 I 5 Sweet Apple Salad. — Slice very mellow sweet apples thin or cut in small pieces (do not chop, as that discolors the fruit), and cover as quickly as possible with a pineapple, grape, or quince dressing. Tomato Salad.— Peel and slice nice fresh tomatoes, and place on ice to chill. Rub a large tablespoonful of nuttolene or nut butter smooth in a half cup of water, add a half cup of lemon juice and a little salt. Beat all well together. Arrange equal- sized slices of tomato around the edge of a salad plate, with a spoonful of the dressing in the center. Tomato Dressing for Salad. — Strain off a pint of the juice from stewed tomato, and thicken with a tablespoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little of the cold tomato juice. Add a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of nut oil or two of nut butter. Beat well and use hot or cold on protose or other nut salads. Date and Walnut Salad.*— Crack English Walnuts so as to have some in halves and some in quarters. Pill dates that have been washed and seeded, with the broken pieces and quarter nuts, and reserve the halves for decorating. Fifteen minutes before serving, pour over the dates a French dressing made by heating together equal parts of lemon juice and sugar. For one-half pound of dates, and one-half pound of walnuts, use one-half cup lemon juice and one-half cup sugar. If desired, the heated lemon juice and sugar may be poured over the beaten white of one egg, beating until the juice is all in, then pour the dressing on, and garnish with lettuce leaves and the half nuts. Apple and Banana Salad.* — Serve one and one-half cupfuls each of banana and apple sliced and mixed, with a cream sauce made as follows : — Cream Salad Dressing.* — Cook in the inner cup of a double boiler one- third cup of cream, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs; when thickened like a custard, add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice after it is removed from the fire, together with a pinch of salt. Fruit Salad.* — Alternate layers of sliced oranges and sliced plums, those having bloodred meat are prettiest. Serve on a dark green lettuce leaf, pour a little lemon juice and sugar over the whole. Cherries may be used instead of plums if more convenient, but plums give the most pleasing effect. Currant Salad.* — Make a sweet salad dressing from two egg yolks, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of Nuttol or olive oil, one- fourth teaspoonful of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cook until slightly thick in a double boiler. Serve over steamed Zante currants which may be placed on a nice crisp lettuce leaf. Garnish with unsteamed cur- rants. TABLE TOPICS. Who lives to eat, will die by eating. — Sel. Fruit bears the closest relation to light. The sun pours a continuous flood of light into the fruits, and they furnish the best portion of food a human being requires for the sustenance of mind and body. — Alcott. The famous Dr. John Hunter, one of the most eminent physicians of his time, and himself a sufferer from gout, found in apples a remedy for this very obstinate and distressing malady. He insisted that all his patients should discard wine and roast beef, and make a free use of apples. Do not too much for your stomach, or it will abandon you. — Sel. The purest food is fruit, next the cereals, then the vegetables. All pure poets have abstained almost entirely from animal food. Especially should a minister take less meat when he has to write a sermon. The less meat the better sermon. — A. Branson Alcott. An orange or two before breakfast is an excellent means of preparing the stomach for the morning meal, as it cleanses away the mucus with which the mucous mem- brane lining the stomach becomes covered when it has been empty for some time. There is much false economy : those who are too poor to have seasonable fruits and vegetables, will yet have pie and pickles all the year. They cannot afford oranges, yet can afford tea and coffee daily. — Health Calendar. What plant we in the apple tree ? Fruits that shall dwell in sunny June, And redden in the August moon. And drop, when gentle airs come by, That fan the blue September sky. While children come, with cries of glee, And seek there when the fragrant grass Betrays their bed to those who pass At the foot of the apple tree. — Bryant. [216] ^'HE legumes, to which belong peas, beans, and lentils, are usually classed among vegetables ; but in composition they differ greatly from all other vegetable foods, being ^"J characterized by a very large percentage of the nitroge- nous elements, by virtue of which they possess the highest nu- tritive value. Indeed, when mature, they contain a larger proportion of nitrogenous matter than any other food, either animal or vegetable. In their immature state, they more nearly resemble the vegetables. On account of the excess of nitrogenous elements in their composition, the mature legumes are well adapted to serve as a substitute for ani- mal foods, and for use in association with articles in which starch or other non-nitrogenous elements are predominant ; as, for example, beans or lentils with rice, which combinations constitute the staple food of large populations in India. The nitrogenous matter of legumes is termed legumin, or vegetable casein, and its resemblance to the animal casein of milk is very marked. The Chinese make use of this fact, and [217] 2l8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. manufacture cheese from peas and beans. The legumes were largely used as food by the ancient nations of the East. They were the "pulse" upon which the Hebrew children grew so fair and strong. According to Josephus, legumes also formed the chief diet of the builders of the pyramids. They are particu- larly valuable as strength producers, and frequently form a considerable portion of the diet of persons in training as ath- letes, at the present day. Being foods possessed of such high nutritive value, the legumes are deserving of a more extended use than is generally accorded them in this country. In their mature state they are, with the exception of beans, seldom found upon the ordinary bill of fare, and beans are too generally served in a form quite difficult of digestion, being combined with large quantities of fat, or otherwise improperly prepared. Peas and lentils are in some respects superior to beans, being less liable to disagree with persons of weak digestion, and for this reason better suited to form a staple article of diet. All the legumes are covered with a tough skin, which is in itself indigestible, and which if not broken by the cooking pro- cess or by thorough mastication afterward, renders the entire seed liable to pass through the digestive tract undigested, since the digestive fluids cannot act upon the hard skin. Even when the skins are broken, if served with the pulp, much of the nutritive material of the legume is wasted, because it is im- possible for the digestive processes to free it from the cellulose material of which the skins are composed. If, then, it be de- sirable to obtain from the legumes the largest amount of nutri- ment and in the most digestible form, they must be prepared in some manner so as to reject the skins. Persons unable to use the legumes when cooked in the ordinary way, usually ex- perience no difficulty whatever in digesting them when di- vested of their skins. The hindrance which even the partially broken skins are to the complete digestion of the legume, is well illustrated by the personal experiments of Prof Striimpell, a German scientist, who found that of beans boiled with the skins on he was able to digest only 60 per cent of the nitroge- nous material they contained. When, however, he reduced the LEGUMES. 219 same quantity of beans to a fine powder previous to cooking, he was enabled to digest 91.8 per cent of it. The fact that the mature legumes are more digestible when prepared in some manner in which the skins are rejected, was doubtless understood in early times, for we find in a recipe of the fourteenth century, directions given " to dry legumes in an oven and remove the skins away before using them." The green legumes which are more like a succulent vege- table are easily digested with the skins on, if the hulls are broken before being swallowed. There are also some kinds of beans which, in their mature state, from having thinner skins, are more readily digested, as the Haricot variety. Suggestions for Cooking. — The legumes are best cooked by stewing or boiling, and when mature, require prolonged cooking to render them tender and digestible. Slow cooking, when practicable, is preferable. Dry beans and peas arc more readily softened by cooking if first soaked for a time in cold water. The soaking also has a tendency to loosen the skins, so that when boiled or stewed, a considerable portion of them slip off whole, and being lighter, rise to the top during the cooking, and can be removed with a spoon ; it likewise aids in removing the strong flavor characteristic of these foods, which is considered objectionable by some persons. The length of time required for soaking will depend upon the age of the seed, those from the last harvest needing only a few hours, while such as have been kept for two or more years require to be soaked twelve or twenty-four hours. For cook- ing, soft water is best. The mineral elements in hard water have a tendency to harden the casein, of which the legumes are largely composed, thus rendering it often very difficult to soften them. The dry, unsoaked legumes are generally best put to cook in cold water, and after the boiling point is reached, allowed to simmer gently until done. Boiling water may be used for legumes which have been previously soaked. The amount of water required will vary somewhat with the heat employed and the age and condition of the legume, as will also the time re- 220 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. quired for cooking, but as a general rule two quarts of soft water for one pint of seeds will be quite sufficient. Salt should not be added until the seeds are nearly done, as it hinders the cooking process. PEAS. Description. — The common garden pea is probably a native of countries bordering on the Black Sea. A variety known as the gray pea {^pois chiche) has been used since a very remote period. The common people of Greece and Rome, in ancient times made it an ordinary article of diet. It is said that peas were considered such a delicacy by the Romans that those who coveted public favor distributed them gratuitously to the people in order to buy votes. Peas were introduced into England from Holland in the time of Elizabeth, and were then considered a great delicacy. His- tory tells us that when the queen was released from her con- finement in the tower, May 19, 1554, she went to Staining to perform her devotions in the church of AUhallows, after which she dined at a neighboring inn upon a meal of which the prin- cipal dish was boiled peas. A dinner of the same kind, com- memorative of the event, was for a long time given annually at the same tavern. Peas, when young, are tender and sweet, containing a con- siderable quantity of sugar. The nitrogenous matter entering into their composition, although less in quantity when unripe, is much more easily digested than when the seeds are mature. When quite ripe, like other leguminous seeds, they require long cooking. When very old, no amount of boiling will soften them. When green, peas are usually cooked and served as a vegetable ; in their dried state, they are put to almost every variety of use in the different countries where they are cul- tivated. In the southeast of Scotland, a favorite food is made of ground peas prepared in thick cakes and called peas-bainocks. In India and southern Europe, a variety of the pea is eaten parched or lightly roasted, or made into cakes, puddings, and LEGUMES. 221 sweetmeats. In Germany, in combination with other ingre- dients, peas are compounded into sausages, which, during the Franco-Prussian war, served as rations for the soldiers. Dried peas for culinary use are obtainable in two forms ; the split peas, which have had the tough envelope of the seed removed, and the green or Scotch peas. The time required for cooking will vary from five to eight hours, depending upon the age of the seed and the length of time it has been soaked previous to cooking. RECIPES. Stewed Split Peas. — Carefully examine and wash the peas, rejecting any imperfect or worm-eaten ones. Put into cold water and let them come to a boil ; then place the stewpan back on the range and simmer gently until tender, but not mushy. Season with salt and a little cream if desired. When well cooked, they are excellent without cream. Peas Puree. — Soak a quart of Scotch peas in cold water over night. In the morning, drain and put them to cook in boiling water. Cook slowly until perfectly tender, allowing them to simmer very gently toward the last until they become as dry as possible. Put through a colander to render them homogeneous and remove the skins. Many of the skins will be loos- ened and rise to the top during the cooking, and it is well to remove these with a spoon so as to make the process of rubbing through the colander less laborious. Season with salt if desired, with or without a cup of thin cream or nut cream added. Serve hot. Mashed Peas. — Soak and cook a quart of peas as for Peas Puree When well done, if the Scotch peas, rub through a colander to remove the skins. If the split peas are used, mash perfectly smooth with a potato masher. Season with a teaspoonful of salt and a half cup of sweet cream or nut meal. Beat well together, turn into an earthen or granite-ware pudding dish, smooth the top, and bake in a moderate oven until dry and mealy throughout, and nicely browned on top. Serve hot like mashed potato, or with a tomato sauce prepared as follows : Heat a pint of strained, stewed tomato, season lightly with salt, and when boiling, thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Peas Cakes. — Cut cold mashed peas in slices half an inch in thickness, brush lightly with cream, place on perforated tins, and brown in the oven. If the peas crumble too much to slice, form them into small cakes with a spoon or knife, and brown as directed. Serve hot with or without a to- 222 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. mato sauce. A celery sauce prepared as directed in the chapter on Sauces, is also excellent. Dried Green Peas. — Gather peas while young and tender and care- fully dry them. When needed for use, rinse well, and put to cook in cold water. Let them simmer until tender. Season with cream, if desired, the same as fresh green peas. BEANS. Description. — Some variety of the bean family has been cultivated and used for culinary purposes from time imme- morial. It is frequently mentioned in Scripture ; King David considered it worthy of a place in his dietary, and the prophet Ezekiel was instructed to mix it with the various grains and seeds of which he made his bread. Among some ancient nations the bean was regarded as a type of death, and the priests of Jupiter were forbidden to eat it, touch it, or even pronounce its name. The believer in the doctrine of transmigration of souls carefully avoided this arti- cle of food, in the fear of submitting beloved friends to the ordeal of mastication. At the present day there is scarcely a country in hot or temperate climates where the bean is not cultivated and universally appreciated, both as a green vegetable and when mature and dried. The time required to digest boiled beans is two and one half hours, and upwards. In their immature state, beans are prepared and cooked like other green vegetables. Dry beans may be either boiled, stewed, or baked, but whatever the method employed, it must be very slow and prolonged. Beans to be baked should first be parboiled until tender. We mention this as a precautionary measure lest some amateur cook, misled by the term "bake," should repeat the experiment of the little English maid whom we employed as cook while living in London, a few years ago. In ordering our dinner, we had quite overlooked the fact that baked beans are almost wholly an American dish, and failed to give any suggestions as to the best manner of preparing it. Left to her own resources, the poor girl did the best she knew LEGUMES. 223 how, but her face was full of perplexity as she placed the beans upon the table at dinner, with, " Well, ma'am, here are the beans, but I do n't see how you are going to eat them." Nor did we, for she had actually baked the dry beans, and they lay there in the dish as brown as roasted coffee berries, and as hard as bullets. Beans to be boiled or stewed do not need parboiling, although many cooks prefer to parboil them, to lessen the strong flavor which to some persons is quite objectionable. From one to eight hours are required to cook beans, vary- ing with the age and variety of the seed, whether it has been soaked, and the rapidity of the cooking process. RECIPES. Baked Beans. — Pick over a quart of best white beans and soak in cold water over night. Put them to cook in fresh water, and simmer gently till they are tender, but not broken. Let them be quite juicy when taken from the kettle. Season with salt and a teaspoonful of molasses. Put them in a deep crock in a slow oven. Let them bake two or three hours, or until they assume a reddish brown tinge, adding boiling water occasionally to prevent their becoming dry. Turn into a shallow dish, and brown nicely before sending to the table. Boiled Beans. — Pick over some fresh, dry beans carefully, and wash thoroughly. Put into boiling water and cook gently and slowly until tender, but not broken. They should be moderately juicy when done. Serve with lemon juice, or season with salt and a little cream as preferred. The colored varieties, which are usually quite strong in flavor, are made less so by parboiling for fifteen or twenty minutes and then pour- ing the water off, adding more of boiling temperature, and cooking slowly until tender. Beans Boiled in a Bag. — Soak a pint of white beans over night. When ready to cook, put them into a clean bag, tie up tightly, as the beans have already swelled, and if given space to move about with the boiling of the water will become broken and mushy. Boil three or four hours. Serve hot. Scalloped Beans. — Soak a pint of white beans over night in cold water. When ready to cook, put into an earthen baking dish, cover well with new milk, and bake in a slow oven for eight or nine hours, refilling the dish with milk as it boils away, and taking care that the beans do not at any time get dry enough to brown over the top till they are tender. 224 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. When nearly done, add salt to taste, and a half cup of cream. They may be allowed to bake till the milk is quite absorbed, and the beans dry, or may be served when rich with juice, according to taste. The beans may be parboiled in water for a half hour before beginning to bake, and the length of time thereby lessened. They should be well drained be- fore adding the milk. Nut milk may be used if preferred. Stewed Beans. — Soak a quart of white beans in water over night. In the morning drain, turn hot water over them an inch deep or more, cover, and place on the range where they will only just simmer, adding boiling water if needed. When nearly tender, add salt to taste, a tablespoonful of sugar if desired, and half a cup of cream or nut cream. Cook slowly an hour or more longer, but let them be full of juice when taken up, never cooked down dry and mealy. Mashed Beans. — Soak over night in cold water, a quart of nice white beans. When ready to cook, drain, put into boiling water, and boil till .^ perfectly tender, and the water nearly evaporated. Take up, rub through a colander to remove the skins, season with salt and a half cup of cream, put in a shallow pudding dish, smooth the top with a spoon, and brown in the oven. Stewed Lima Beans. — Put the beans into boiling water, and cook till tender, but not till they fall to pieces. Fresh beans should cook an hour or more, and dry ones require from two to three hours unless previously soaked. They are much better to simmer slowly than to boil hard. They should be cooked nearly dry. Season with salt, and a cup of nut cream, to each pint of beans. Simmer for a few minutes after the cream is turned in. Should it happen that the beans become tender before the water is sufficiently evaporated, do not drain off the water, but add a little thicker cream, and thicken the whole with a little flour. A little flour stirred in with the cream, even when the water is nearly evaporated, may be preferred by some. Succotash. — Boil one part Lima beans and two parts sweet corn sepa- rately until both are nearly tender. Put together, and simmer gently till done. Season with salt and sweet or nut cream. Fresh corn and beans may be combined in the same proportions, but as the beans are likely to require the most time for cooking, they should be put to boil first, and the corn added when the beans are about half done, unless it is exception- ally hard, in which case it must be added sooner. Pulp Succotash. — Score the kernels of some fresh green corn with a sharp knife blade, then with the back of a knife scrape out all the pulp, leaving the hulls on the cob. Boil the pulp in milk ten or fifteen minutes, or until well done. Cook some fresh shelled beans until tender, and rub them through a colander. Put together an equal quantity of the beans LEGUMES. 225 thus prepared and the cooked corn pulp, season with salt and sweet cream, boil together for a few minutes, and serve. Kornlet and dried Lima beans may be made into succotash in a similar manner Bicli Baked Beans. — Wash (do not soak nor paiboil) one pint of beans. Put them into a stone jar, with two rounded teaspoonf uls of salt and a large quantity of boiling water. Let them boil for a few minutes on the top of the stove, then cover well and put into the oven. Bake very slowly from twelve to twenty-four hours. Pour boiling water over them when necessary, but do not stir. Leave them slightly juicy for serving. LENTILS. Description. — Several varieties of the lentil are cultivated for food, bat all are nearly alike in composition and nutritive value. They have long been esteemed as an article of diet. That they were in ordinary use among the Hebrews is shown by the frequent mention of them in Scripture. It is thought that the red pottage of Esau was made from the red variety of this legume. The ancient Egyptians believed that a diet of lentils would tend to make their children good tempered, cheerful, and wise, and for this reason constituted it their principal food. A gravy made of lentils is largely used with their rice by the natives of India, at the present day. The meal which lentils yield is of great richness, and gen- erally contains more casein than either beans or peas. The skin, however, is tough and indigestible, and being much smaller than peas, when served without rejecting the skins, they appear to be almost wholly of tough, fibrous material ; hence they are of little value except for soups, purees, toasts, and such other dishes as require the rejection of the skin. Len- tils have a stronger flavor than any of the other legumes, and their taste is not so generally liked until one has become accus- tomed to it. Lentils are prepared and cooked in the same manner as dried peas, though they require somewhat less time for cooking. 15 226 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. The large dark variety is better soaked for a time previous to cooking, or parboil for a half hour and then put into new water, to make them less strong in flavor and less dark in color. RECIPES. Lentil Puree. — Cook the lentils and rub through a colander as for peas puree. Season, and serve in the same manner. Lentils Mashed Tvith Beans. — Lentils may be cooked and prepared in the same manner as directed for mashed peas, but they are less strong in flavor if about one third to one half cooked white beans are used with them. LentU Gravy with Rice. — Rub a cupful of cooked lentils through a col- ander to remove the skins, add one cup of rich milk, part cream if it can be afforded, and salt if desired. Heat to boiling, and thicken with a tea- spoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Serve hot on nicely steamed or boiled rice, or with well cooked macaroni. TABLE TOPICS. The men who kept alive the flame of learning and piety in the Middle Ages were mainly vegetarians. — Sir William Axon. According to Xenophon, Cyrus, king of Persia, was brought up on a diet of water, bread, and cresses, till his fifteenth year, when honey and raisins were added ; and the family names of the Fabii and Lentuli were derived from their customary diet. Thomson, in his poem, "The Seasons," written one hundred and sixty years ago, pays the following tribute to a diet composed of seeds and vegetable products : — " With such a liberal hand has Nature flung These seeds abroad, blown them about in winds — ... But who their virtues can declare ? who pierce. With vision pure, into those secret stores Of health and life and joy — the food of man. While yet he lived in innocence and told A length of golden years, unfleshed in blood ? A stranger to the savage arts of life — Death, rapine, carnage, surfeit, and disease — The lord, and not the tyrant of the world." Most assuredly I do believe that body and mind are much influenced by the kind of food habitually depended upon. I can never stray among the village people LEGUMES. 227 of our windy capes without now and then coming upon a human being who loolcs as if he had been split, salted, and dried, like the salt fish which has built up his arid organism. If the body is modified by the food which nourishes it, the mind and character very certainly will be modified by it also. We know enough of their close connection with each other to be sure of that without any statistical observation to prove it. — Oliver Wendell Holmes. The thoughts and feelings which the food we partake of provokes, are not re- marked in common life, but they, nevertheless, have their significance. A man who daily sees cows and calves slaughtered, or who kills them himself, hogs " stuck," hens "plucked," etc., cannot possibly retain any true feeling for the sufferings of his own species. . . . Doubtless, the majority of flesh-eaters do not reflect upon the manner in which this food comes to them, but this thoughtlessness, far from being a virtue, is the parent of many vices. . . . How very different are the thoughts and sentiments produced by the non-flesh diet ! — Gustav Von Siruve. That the popular idea that beef is necessary for strength is not a correct one, is well illustrated by Xenophon's description of the outfit of a Spartan soldier, whose dietary consisted of the very plainest and simplest vegetable fare. The complete accoutrements of the Spartan soldier, in what we would call heavy marching order, weighed seveifty-five pounds, exclusive of the camp, mining, and bridge-building tools, and the rations of bread and dried fruit which were issued in weekly install- ments, and increased the burden of the infantry soldier to ninety, ninety-five, or even to a full hundred pounds. This load was often carried at the rate of four miles an hour for twelve hours Z^?" diem, day after day, and only when in the burning deserts of southern Syria did the commander of the Grecian auxiliaries think prudent to shorten the usual length of the day's march. Diet of Trainers. — The following are a few of the restrictions and rules laid down by experienced trainers : — Little salt. No coarse vegetables. No pork or veal. Two meals a day ; break- fast at eight and dinner at two. No fat meat is allowed, no butter or cheese, pies or pastry. EGETABLES used for culinary purposes comprise ■y roots and tubers, as potatoes, turnips, etc. ; shoots |x and stems, as asparagus and sea-kale ; leaves and in- florescence, as spinach and cabbage ; immature seeds, grains, and seed receptacles, as green peas, corn, and string- beans ; and a few of the fruity products, as the tomato and the squash. Of these the tubers rank the highest in nutri- tive value. Vegetables are by no means the most nutritious diet, as water enters largely into their composition ; but food to sup- ply perfectly the needs of the vital economy, must contain water and indigestible as well as nutritive elements. Thus they are dietetically of great value, since they furnish a large quantity of organic fluids. Vegetables are rich in mineral ele- ments, and are also of service in giving bulk to food. An exclusive diet of vegetables, however, would give too great bulk, and at the same time fail to supply the proper amount of food elements. To furnish the requisite amount of nitroge- nous material for one day, if potatoes alone were depended upon as food, a person would need to consume about nine pounds ; of turnips, sixteen pounds ; of parsnips, eighteen [228] VEGETABLES. 229 pounds ; of cabbage, twenty-two pounds. Hence it is wise to use them in combination with other articles of diet — grains, whole-wheat bread, etc. — that supplement the qualities lack- ing in the vegetables. To Select Vegetables. — All roots and tubers should be plump, free from decay, bruises, and disease, and with fresh, unshriveled skins. They are good from the time of maturing until they begin to germinate. Sprouted vegetables are unfit for food. Potato sprouts contain a poison allied to belladonna. All vegetables beginning to decay are unfit for food. Green vegetables to be wholesome should be freshly gath- ered, crisp, and juicy ; those which have lain long in the market are very questionable food. In Paris, a law forbids a market-man to offer for sale any green vegetable kept more than one day. The use of stale vegetables is known to have been the cause of serious illness. Keeping Vegetables. — If necessary to keep green vege- tables for any length of time, do not put them in water, as that will dissolve and destroy some of their juices ; but lay them in a cool, dark place, — on a stone floor is best, — and do not remove their outer leaves until needed. They should be cooked the day they are gathered, if possible. The best way to freshen those with stems when withered is to cut off a bit of the stem or stem-end, and set only the cut part in water. The vegetables will then absorb enough water to replace what has been lost by evaporation. Peas and beans should not be shelled until wanted. If, however, they are not used as soon as shelled, cover them with pods and put in a cool place. Winter vegetables can be best kept wholesome by storing in a cool, dry place of even temperature, and where neither warmth, moisture, nor light is present to induce decay or ger- mination. They should be well sorted, the bruised or decayed, rejected, and the rest put into clean bins or boxes ; and should be dry and clean when stored. Vegetables soon absorb bad flavors if left near anything odorous or decomposing, and are 230 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. thus rendered unwholesome. They should be looked over often, and decayed ones removed. Vegetables, to be kept fit for food, should on no account be stored in a cellar with barrels of fermenting pickle brine, soft soap, heaps of decomposing rubbish, and other similar things frequently found in the dark, damp vegetable cellars of modern houses. Preparation and Cooking. — Most vegetables need thor- ough washing before cooking. Roots and tubers should be well cleaned before paring. A vegetable brush or a small whisk broom is especially serviceable for this purpose. If necessary to wash shelled beans and peas, it can best be accomplished by putting them in a colander and dipping in and out of large pans of water until clean. Spinach, lettuce, and other leaves may be cleaned in the same way. Vegetables admit of much variety in preparation for the table, and are commonly held to require the least culinary skill of any article of diet. This is a mistake. Though the usual processes employed to make vegetables palatable are simple, yet many cooks, from carelessness or lack of knowl- edge of their nature and composition, convert some of the most nutritious vegetables into dishes almost worthless as food or almost impossible of digestion. It requires no little care and skill to cook vegetables so that they will neither be under-done nor over-done, and so that they will retain their natural flavors. A general rule, applicable to all vegetables to be boiled or stewed, is to cook them in as little water as may be without burning. The salts and nutrient juices are largely lost in the water ; and if this needs to be drained off, much of the nutriment is apt to be wasted. Many cooks throw away the true rich- ness, while they serve the "husks" only. Condiments and seasonings may cover insipid taste, but they cannot restore lost elements. Vegetables contain so much water in their composition that it is not necessary to add large quantities for cooking, as in the case of the grains and legumes, which have lost nearly all their moisture in the ripening process. Some VEGETABLES. 23 1 Vegetables are much better cooked without the addition of water. Vegetables to be cooked by boiling should be put into boiling water ; and since water loses its goodness by boiling, vegetables should be put in as soon as the boiling begins. The process of cooking should be continuous, and in general gentle heat is best. Remember that when water is boiling, the tem- perature is not increased by violent bubbling. Keep the cooking utensil closely covered. If water is added, let it also be boiling hot. Vegetables not of uniform size should be so assorted that those of the same size may be cooked together, or large ones may be divided. Green vegetables retain their color best if cooked rapidly. Soda is sometimes added to the water in which the vegetables are cooked, for the purpose of preserving their colors, but this practice is very harmful. Vegetables should be cooked until they are perfectly tender but not overdone. Many cooks spoil their vegetables by cooking them too long, while quite as many more serve them in an underdone state to preserve their form. Either plan makes them less palatable, and likely to be indigestible. Steaming or baking is preferable for most vegetables, be- cause their finer flavors are more easily retained, and their food value suffers less diminution. Particularly is this true of tubers. The time required for cooking depends much upon the age and freshness of the vegetables, as well as the method of cook- ing employed. Wilted vegetables require a longer time for cooking than fresh ones. Time Required for Cooking. — The following is the ap- proximate length of time required for cooking some of the more commonly used vegetables : — Potatoes, baked, 30 to 45 minutes. Potatoes, pared, about 20 minutes, if of Potatoes, steamed, 20 to 40 minutes. medium size ; if very large, they will Potatoes, boiled (in jackets), 20 to 25 require from 25 to 45 minutes. minutes after the water is fairly boil- Green corn, young, from 15 to 20 minutes. ing. Peas, 25 to 30 minutes. 232 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Asparagus, 15 to 20 minutes, young ; 30 to 50 if old. Tomatoes, I to 2 hours. String beans and shelled beans, 45 to 60 minutes or longer. Beets, boiled, i hour if young ; old, 3 to 5 hours. Beets, baked, 3 to 6 hours. Carrots, I to 2 hours. Parsnips, 45 minutes, young ; old, I to 2 hours. Turnips, young, 45 minutes; old, 1)4 to 2 hours. Winter squash, i hour. Cabbage, young, I hour ; old, 2 to 3 hours. Vegetable oysters, I to 2 hours. Celery, 20 to 30 minutes. Spinach, 20 to 60 minutes or more. Cauliflower, 20 to 40 minutes. Summer squash, 20 to 60 minutes. If vegetables after being cooked cannot be served at once, dish them up as soon as done, and place the dishes in a bain maj-ie or in pans of hot water, where they will keep of even temperature, but not boil. Vegetables are never so good after Bain Marie. standing, but they spoil less kept in this way than any other. The water in the pans should be of equal depth with the food in the dishes. Stewed vegetables and others prepared with a sauce, may, when cold, be reheated in a similar manner. If salt is to be used to season, one third of a teaspoonful for each pint of cooked vegetables is an ample quantity. Nut cream may be used in place of milk or cream for season- ing all vegetables. VEGETABLES. 233 THE IRISH POTATO. Description. — The potato, a plant of the order Solanacea, is supposed to be indigenous to South America. Probably it was introduced into Europe by the Spaniards early in the six- teenth century, but cultivated only as a curiosity. To Sir Walter Raleigh, however, is usually given the credit of its introduction as a food, he having imported it from Virginia to Ireland in 1586, where its valuable nutritive qualities were first appreciated. The potato has so long constituted the staple article of diet in Ireland, that it has come to be commonly, though incorrectly, known as the Irish potato. The edible portion of the plant is the tuber, a thick, fleshy mass or enlarged portion of an underground stem, having upon its surface a number of little buds, or "eyes," each capable of independent growth. The tuber is made up of little cells filled with starch granules, surrounded and permeated with a watery fluid containing a small percentage of the albuminous or ni- trogenous elements. In cooking, heat coagulates the albumen within and between the cells, while the starch granules absorb the watery portion, swell, and distend the cells. The cohesion between these is also destroyed, and they easily separate. When these changes are complete, the potato becomes a loose, farinaceous mass, or " mealy." When, however, the liquid por- tion is not wholly absorbed, and the cells are but imperfectly separated, the potato appears waxen, watery, or soggy. In a mealy state the potato is easily digested ; but when waxy or water-soaked, it is exceedingly trying to the digestive powers. It is obvious, then, that the great desideratum in cooking the potato, is to promote the expansion and separation of its cells ; in other words, to render it mealy. Young potatoes are al- ways waxy, and consequently less wholesome than ripe ones. Potatoes which have been frozen and allowed to thaw quickly are much sweeter and more watery, because in thawing the starch changes into sugar. Frozen potatoes should be thawed in cold water and cooked at once, or kept frozen until ready for use. 234 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Preparation and Cooking. — Always pare potatoes very thin. Much of the most nutritious part of the tuber lies next its outer covering ; so care should be taken to waste as little as possible. Potatoes cooked with the skins on are undoubt- edly better than those pared. The chief mineral element con- tained in the potato is potash, an important constituent of the blood. Potash salts are freely soluble in water, and when the skin is removed, there is nothing to prevent these salts from escaping into the water in which the potato is boiled. If the potato is cooked in its "jacket," the skin, which does not in general burst open until the potato is nearly done, serves to keep this valuable element largely inside the potato while cooking. For the same reason it is better not to pare potatoes and put them in water to soak over night, as many cooks are in the habit of doing, to have them in readiness for cooking for breakfast. Potatoes to be pared should be first washed and dried. It is a good plan to wash quite a quantity at one time, to be used as needed. After paring, drop at once into cold water and rinse them thoroughly. It is a careless habit to allow pared potatoes to fall among the skins, as in this way they become stained, and appear black and discolored after cooking. Scrubbing with a vegetable brush is by far the best means for cleaning potatoes to be cooked with the skins on. When boiled in their skins, the waste, according to Leth- eby, is about three per cent, while without them it is not less than fourteen per cent, or more than two ounces in every pound. Potatoes boiled without skins should be cooked very gently. Steaming, roasting, and baking are much better methods for cooking potatoes than boiling, for reasons already given. Very old potatoes are best stewed or mashed. When with- ered or wilted, they are freshened by standing in cold water for an hour or so before cooking. If diseased or badly sprouted, potatoes are wholly unfit for food. VEGETABLES. 23$ RECtPES. Boiled Potatoes {in Jackets). — Choose potatoes of uniform size, free from specks. Wash and scrub them well with a coarse cloth or brush ; dig out all eyes and rinse in cold water ; cook in just enough water to prevent burning, till easily pierced with a fork, not till they have burst the skin and fallen in pieces. Drain thoroughly, take out the potatoes, and place them in the oven for five minutes, or place the kettle back on the range ; remove the skins, and cover with a cloth to absorb all moisture, and let them steam three or four minutes. By either method they will -be dry and mealy. In removing the skins, draw them off without cutting the potatoes. Boiled Potatoes (without Skins). — Pare very thin, and wash clean. If not of an equal size, cut the larger potatoes in two. Cook in only suf- ficient water to prevent burning until a fork will easily pierce their center ; drain thoroughly, place the kettle back on the range, cover with a cloth to absorb the moisture, and let them dry four or five minutes. Shake the kettle several times while they are drying, to make them floury. Steamed Potatoes. — Potatoes may be steamed either with or without the skin. Only mature potatoes can be steamed. Prepare as for boiling ; place in a steamer, over boiling water, and steam until tender. If water is needed to replenish, let it always be boiling hot, and not allow the potatoes to stop steaming, or they will be watery. When done, uncover, remove the potatoes to the oven, and let them dry a few minutes. If peeled before steaming, shake the steamer occasionally, to make them floury. Roasted Potatoes. — Potatoes are much more rich and mealy roasted than cooked in any other way. Wash them very carefully, dry with a cloth, and wrap in tissue paper ; bury in ashes not too hot, then cover with coals and roast until tender. The coals will need renewing occasion- ally, unless the roasting is done very close to the main fire. Baked Potatoes. — Choose large, smooth potatoes as near the same size as possible ; wash and scrub with a brush until perfectly clean ; dry with a cloth, and bake in a moderately hot oven until a fork will easily pierce them, or until they yield to pressure between the fingers. They are better turned about occasionally. In a slow oven the skins become hardened and thickened, and much of the most nutritious portion is wasted. When Qone, press each one till it bursts slightly, as that will allow the steam to escape, and prevent the potatoes from becoming soggy. They should be served at once, in a folded napkin placed in a hot dish. Cold baked potatoes may be warmed over by rebaking, if of good quality and not overdone the first time. ^36 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Stuffed Petatoes.— Prepare and bake large potatoes o£ equal size, as directed in the preceding recipe. When done, cut them evenly three fourths of an inch from the end, and scrape out the inside, taking care not to break the skins. Season the potato with salt and a little thick sweet cream, being careful not to have it too moist, and beat thoroughly with a fork until light ; refill the skins with the seasoned potato, fit the broken portions together, and reheat in the oven. When hot throughout, wrap the potatoes in squares of white tissue paper fringed at both ends. Twist the ends of the paper lightly together above the fringe, and stand the potatoes in a vegetable dish with the cut end uppermost. When served, the potatoes are held in the hand, one end of the paper untwisted, the top of the potato removed, and the contents eaten with a fork or spoon. Stuffed Potatoes No. 2. — Prepare large, smooth potatoes, bake until ten- . der, and cut them in halves ; scrape out the inside carefully, so as not to V break the skins ; mash smoothly, mix thoroughly with one third freshly prepared cottage cheese; season with nice sweet cream, and salt if desired. Fill the shells with the mixture, place, cut side uppermost, in a pudding dish, and brown in the oven. Mashed Potatoes. — Peel and slice potatoes enough to make two quarts ; put into boiling water and cook until perfectly tender, but not much broken ; drain, add salt to taste ; turn into a hot earthen dish, and set in the oven for a few moments to dry. Break up the potatoes with a silver fork ; add nearly a cup of cream, and beat hard at least five minutes till light and creamy ; serve at once, or they will become heavy. If preferred, the potatoes may be rubbed through a hot sieve into a hot plate, or mashed with a potato beetle, but they are less light and flaky when mashed with a beetle. If cream for seasoning is not obtainable, a well-beaten egg makes a very good substitute. Use in the proportion of one egg to about five potatoes. For mashed potatoes, if all utensils and ingredients are first heated, the result will be much better. New Potatoes. — When potatoes are young and freshly gathered, the skins 'are easiest removed by taking each one in a coarse cloth and rub- bing it ; a little coarse salt used in the cloth will be found serviceable for this purpose. If almost ripe, scrape with a blunt knife, wash very clean, and rinse in cold water. Boiling is the best method of cooking ; new potatoes are not good steamed. Use only sufiicient water to cover, and boil till tender. Drain thoroughly, cover closely with a clean cloth, and dry before serving. Cracked Potatoes.— Prepare and boil new potatoes as in the preceding recipe, and when ready to serve, crack each by pressing lightly upon it with the back of a spoon, lay them in a hot dish, salt to taste and pour over them a cup of hot thin cream or rich milk. VEGETABLES 237 Creamed Potatoes. — Take rather small, new potatoes and wash well ; rub off all the skins ; cut in halves, or if quite large, quarter them. Put a pint of divided potatoes into a broad-bottomed, shallow saucepan ; pour over them a cup of thin sweet cream, add salt if desired ; heat just to the boiling point, then allow them to simmer gently till perfectly tender, tossing them occasionally in the stewpan to prevent their burning on the bottom. Serve hot. Scalloped Potatoes. — Pare the potatoes and slice thin ; put them in layers in an earthen pudding dish, dredge each layer lightly with flour, add salt, and pour over all enough good, rich milk to cover well. Cover, and bake rather slowly till tender, removing the cover just long enough before the potatoes are done, to brown nicely. If preferred, a little less milk may be used, and a cup of thin cream added when the potatoes are nearly done. Stewed Potato. — Pare the potatoes and slice rather thin. Put into boiling water, and cook until nearly tender, but not broken. Have some rich milk boiling in the inner dish of a double boiler, add to it a little salt, then stir in for each pint of milk a heaping teaspoonful of corn starch or rice flour, rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Stir until it thickens. Drain the potatoes, turn them into the hot sauce, put the dish in the outer boiler, and cook for a half hour or longer. Cold boiled potatoes may be sliced and used in the same way. Cold baked potatoes sliced and stewed thus for an hour or more, make a particularly appetizing dish. Potatoes Stewed with Celery. — Pare and slice the potatoes, and put them into a stewpan with two or three tablespoonfuls of minced celery. Use only the white part of the celery and mince it finely. Cover the whole with milk sufficient to cook and prevent burning, and stew until tender. Season with cream and salt. Potato Snowballs. — Cut large potatoes into quarters ; if small, leave them undivided ; boil in just enough water to cover. When tender, drain- and dry in the usual way. Take up two or three pieces at a time in a strong, clean cloth, and press them compactly together in the shape of balls. Serve in a folded napkin on a hot dish. Potato Cakes. — Make nicely seasoned, cold mashed potato into small round cakes about one half an inch thick. Put them on a baking tin, brush them over with sweet cream, and bake in a hot oven till golden brown. Potatfl Cakes with Egg. — Bake nice potatoes till perfectly tender ; peel, mash thoroughly, and to each pint allow the yolks of two eggs which have been boiled until mealy, then rubbed perfectly smooth through a fine wire sieve, and one half cup of rich milk. Add salt to taste, mix all well together, form the potato into small cakes, place them on oiled tins, and brown ten or fifteen minutes in the oven. 238 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Potato Puff. — Mix a pint of mashed potato (cold is just as good if free from lumps) with a half cup of cream and the well-beaten yolk of an egg ; salt to taste and beat till smooth ; lastly, stir in the white of the egg beaten to a stiff froth. Pile up in a rocky form on a bright tin dish, and bake in a quick oven until heated throughout and lightly browned. Serve at once. Browned Potatoes. — Slice cold potatoes evenly, place them on an oiled tin, and brown in a very quick oven ; or slice lengthwise and lay on a wire broiler or bread-toaster, and brown over hot coals. Sprinkle with a little salt if desired, and serve hot with sweet cream as dressing. Ornamental Potatoes. — No vegetable can be made palatable in so many ways as the potato, and few can be arranged in such pretty shapes. Mashed potatoes made moist with cream, can easily be made into cones, pyramids, or mounds. Cold mashed potatoes may be cut into many fancy shapes with a cookie-cutter, wet with a little cold water, and browned in the oven. Mounds of potatoes are very pretty smoothed and strewn with well- cooked vermicelli broken into small bits, and then lightly browned in the oven. Scoring the top of a dish of mashed potato deeply in triangles, stars, and crosses, with the back of a carving knife, and then browning lightly, gives a very pretty effect. Broiled Potato. — Mashed potatoes, if packed firmly while warm into a sheet-iron bread tin which has been dipped in cold water, may be cut into slices when cold, brushed with cream, and browned on a broiler over hot coals. Warmed-over Potatoes. — Cut cold boiled potatoes into very thin slices ; heat a little cream to boiling in a saucepan ; add the potato, season lightly with salt if desired, and cook until the cream is absorbed, stirring occa- sionally so as to prevent scorching or breaking the slices. Veg'etable Hash. — With one quart finely sliced potato, chop one car- rot, one red beet, one white turnip, all boiled, also one or two stalks of celery. Put all together in a stewpan, cover closely, and set in the oven ; when hot, pour over them a cup of boiling cream, stir well together, and serve hot. THE SWEET POTATO. Description. — The sweet potato is a native of the Malayan Archipelago, where it formerly grew wild ; thence it was taken to Spain, and from Spain to England and other parts of the globe. It was largely used in Europe as a delicacy on the VEGETABLES. 239 tables of the rich before the introduction of the common potato, which has now taken its place and likewise its name. The sweet potato is the article referred to as potato by Shake- speare and other English writers, previous to the middle of the seventeenth century. Preparation and Cooking. — What has been said in ref- erence to the common potato, is generally applicable to the sweet potato ; it may be prepared and cooked in nearly all the ways of the Irish potato. In selecting sweet potatoes, choose firm, plump roots, free from any sprouts ; if sprouted they will have a poor flavor, and are likely to be watery. The sweet potato is best cooked with the skin on ; but all discolored portions and the dry portion at each end, together with all branchlets, should be carefully removed, and the potato well washed, and if to be baked or roasted, well dried with a cloth before placing in the oven. The average time required for boiling is about fifty minutes ; baking, one hour ; steaming, about one hour ; roasting, one and one half hours. REC/PES. Baked Sweet Potatoes. — Select those of uniform size, wash clean, cut- ting out any imperfect spots, wipe dry, put into a moderately hot oven, and bake about one hour, or until the largest will yield to 'gentle pressure be- tween the fingers. Serve at once without peeling. Small potatoes are best steamed, since if baked, the skins will take up nearly the whole potato. Baked Sweet Potato No. 2. — Select potatoes of medium size, wash and trim but do not pare, and put on the upper grate of the oven. For a peck of potatoes, put in the lower part of the oven in a large shallow pan a half pint of hot water. The water may be turned directly upon the oven bot- tom if preferred. Bake slowly, turning once when half done. Serve in their skins, or peel, slice, and return to the oven until nicely browned. Boiled Sweet Potatoes. — Choose potatoes of equal size ; do not pare, but after cleaning them well and removing any imperfect spots, put into cold water and boil until they can be easily pierced with a fork ; drain thoroughly, and lay them on the top grate in the oven to dry for five or ten minutes. Peel as soon as dry, and send at once to the table, in a hot dish covered with a folded napkin. Sweet potatoes are much better baked than boiled. 240 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Steamed Sweet Potatoes. — Wash the potatoes well, cut out any dis. colored portions, and steam over a kettle of boiling water until they can be easily pierced with a fork, not allowing the water in the pot to cease boiling for a moment. Steam only sufficient to cook them, else they will be watery. Browned Sweet Potatoes. — Slice cold, cooked sweet potatoes evenly, place on slightly oiled tins in a hot oven, and brown. Mashed Sweet Potatoes. — Either bake or steam nice sweet potatoes, and when tender, peel, mash them well, and season with cream and salt to taste. They may be served at once, or made into patties and browned in the oven. Potato Hash. — Take equal parts of cold Irish and sweet potatoes ; chop fine and mix thoroughly ; season with salt if desired, and add sufficient thin cream to moisten well. Turn into a stewpan, and heat gently until boiling, tossing continually, that all parts become heated alike, and serve at once. Roasted Sweet Potatoes. — Wash clean and wipe dry, potatoes of uni- form size, wrap with tissue paper, cover with hot ashes, and then with coals from a hardwood fire ; unless near the main fire, the coals will need renewing a few times. This will require a longer time than by any other method, but they are much nicer. The slow, continuous heat promotes their mealiness. When tender, brush the ashes off with a broom, and wipe with a dry cloth. Send to the table in their jackets. To Dry Sweet Potatoes. — Carefully clean and drop them into boiling water. Let them remain until the skins can be easily slipped off ; then cut into slices and spread on racks to dry. To prepare for cooking, soak over night, and boil the next day. TURNIPS. DescripUon. — The turnip belongs to the order Cruciferce, signifying " cross flovirers," so called because their four petals are arranged in the form of a cross. It is a native of Europe and the temperate portions of Asia, growing wild in borders of fields and waste places. The ancient Roman gastronomists considered the turnip, when prepared in the following manner, a dish fit for epicures: "After boiling, extract the water from them, and season with cummin, rue, or benzoin, pounded in a mortar ; afterward add honey, vinegar, gravy, and boiled grapes. Allow the whole to simmer, and serve." VEGETABLES. 24 1 Under cultivation, the turnip forms an agreeable culinary esculent ; but on account of the large proportion of water entering into its composition, its nutritive value is exceedingly low. The Swedish, or Rutabaga, variety is rather more nutri- tive than the white, but its stronger flavor renders it less palatable. Unlike the potato, the turnip contains no starch, but instead, a gelatinous substance called pectose, which dur- ing the boiling process is changed into a vegetable jelly called pectine. The white lining just inside the skin is usually bitter ; hence the tuber should be peeled sufficiently deep to remove it. When well cooked, turnips'are quite easily digested. Preparation and Cooking. — Turnips are good for culi- nary purposes only from the time of their ripening till they begin to sprout. The process of germination changes their proximate elements, and renders them less fit for food. Select turnips which are plump and free from disease. A turnip that is wilted, or that appears spongy, pithy, or cork-like when cut, is not fit for food. Prepare turnips for cooking by thoroughly washing and scraping, if young and tender, or by paring if more mature. If small, they may be cooked whole ; if large, they should be cut across the grain into slices a half inch in thickness. If cooked whole, care must be taken to select those of uniform size ; and if sliced, the slices must be of equal thickness. RECIPES. Boiled Tnmips. — Turnips, like other vegetables, should be boiled in as small an amount of water as possible. Great care must be taken, however, that the kettle does not get dry, as scorched turnip is spoiled. An excellent precaution, in order to keep them from scorching in case the water becomes low, is to place an inverted saucer or sauce-dish in the bottom of the kettle before putting in the turnips. Put into boiling water, cook rapidly until sufficiently tender to pierce easily with a fork ; too much cooking discolors and renders them strong in flavor. Boiled turnips should be drained very thoroughly, and all water pressed out before pre- paring for the table. The age, size, and variety of the turnip will greatly vary the time necessary for its cooking. The safest rule is to allow plenty of time, and test with a fork. Young turnips will cook in about forty-five 16 242 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. minutes; old turnips, sliced, require from one and a quarter to two hours. If whole or cut in halves, they require a proportionate length of time. White turnips require much less cooking than yellow ones. Baked Tamips. — Select turnips of uniform size; wash and wipe, but do not pare ; place on the top grate of a moderately hot oven ; bake two or more hours or until perfectly tender ; peel and serve at once, either mashed or with cream sauce. Turnips are much sweeter baked than when cooked in any other way. Creamed Turnips. — Pare, but do not cut, young sweet white turnips ; boil till tender in a small quantity of water ; drain and dry well. Cook a tablespoonful of flour in a pint of rich milk or part cream ; arrange the turnips in a baking dish, pour the sauce over them, add salt if desired, sprinkle the top with grated bread crumbs, and brown in a quick oven. Chopped Turnips. — Chop well-boiled white turnips very fine, add salt to taste and sufficient lemon juice to moisten. Turn into a saucepan and heat till hot, gently lifting and stirring constantly. Cold boiled turnip may be used advantageously in this way. Mashed Turnips. — Wash the turnips, pare, and drop into boiling water. Cook until perfectly tender ; turn into a colander and press out the water with a plate or large spoon ; mash until free from lumps, season with a little sweet cream, and salt if desired. If the turnips are especially wa- tery, one or two hot, mealy potatoes mashed with them will be an improve- ment. Scalloped Turnips. — Prepare and boil whole white turnips until nearly tender ; cut into thin slices, lay in an earthen pudding dish, pour over them a white sauce sufficient to cover, made by cooking a tablespoonful of flour in a pint of milk, part cream if preferred, until thickened. Season with salt, sprinkle the top lightly with grated bread crumbs, and bake in a quick oven until a rich brown. Place the baking dish on a clean plate, and serve. Rich milk or cream may be used instead of white sauce, if preferred. Steamed Turnips. — Select turnips of uniform size, wash, pare, and steam rapidly till they can be easily pierced with a fork ; mash, or serve with lemon juice or cream sauce, as desired. Stewed Turnips. — Prepare and slice some young, fresh white turnips, boil or steam about twenty minutes, drain thoroughly, turn into a sauce- pan with a cup of new milk for each quart of turnips ; simmer gently until tender, season with salt if desired, and serve. Turnips in Juice. — Wash young white turnips, peel, and boil whole in sufficient water to keep them from burning. Cover closely and cook gently until tender, by which time the water in the kettle should be re- duced to the consistency of syrup. Serve at once. VEGETABLES. 243 Tniiiips with Cream Sance. — Wash and pare the turnips, cut them into half-inch dice, and cook in boiling water until tender. Meanwhile prepare a cream sauce as directed for Scalloped Turnips, using thin cream in place of milk. Drain the turnips, pour the cream sauce over them, let them boil up once, and serve. PARSNIPS. Description. — The common garden parsnip is derived by cultivation from the wild parsnip, indigenous to many parts of Europe and the north of Asia, and cultivated since Roman times. It is not only used for culinary purposes, but a wine is made from it. In the north of Ireland a table beer is brewed from its fermented product and hops. The percentage of nutritive elements contained in the pars- nip is very small ; so small, indeed, that one pound of parsnips affords hardly one fifth of an ounce of nitrogenous or muscle- forming material. The time required for its digestion, varies from two and one half to three and one half hours. Preparation and Cooking. — Wash and trim off any rough portions : scrape well with a knife to remove the skins, and drop at once into cold water to prevent discoloration. If the parsnips are smooth-skinned, fresh, and too small to need dividing, they need only be washed thoroughly before cooking, as the skins can be easily removed by rubbing with a clean towel. Reject those that are wilted, pithy, coarse, or stringy. Large parsnips should be divided, for if cooked whole, the outside is likely to become soft before the center is tender. They may be either split lengthwise or sliced. Parsnips may be boiled, baked, or steamed ; but like all other vegetables containing a large percentage of water, are preferable steamed or baked. The time required for cooking young parsnips, is about forty-five minutes ; when old, they require from one to two hours. 244 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. RECIPES. Baked Parsnips.— Wash thoroughly, but do not scrape the roots; bake the same as potatoes. When tender, remove the skins, slice, and serve with cream or an egg sauce prepared as directed for Parsnips with Egg Sauce. They are also very nice mashed and seasoned with cream. Baked and steamed parsnips are far sweeter than boiled ones. Baked Parsnips No. 2. — Wash, scrape, and divide ; drop into boiling water, a little more than sufficient to cook them, and boil gently till thoroughly tender. There should remain about one half pint of the liquor when the parsnips are done. Arrange on an earthen plate or shallow pudding dish, not more than one layer deep ; cover with the juice, and bake, basting frequently until the juice is all absorbed, and the parsnips delicately browned. Serve at once. Boiled Parsnips. — Clean, scrape, drop into a small quantity of boiling water, and cook until they can be easily pierced with a fork. Drain thoroughly, cut the parsnips in slices, and mash or serve with a white sauce, to which a little lemon juice may be added if desired. Browned Parsnips. — Slice cold parsnips into rather thick pieces, and brown as directed for browned potatoes. Creamed Parsnips. — Bake or steam the parsnips until tender ; slice, add salt if desired, and a cup of thin sweet cream. Let them stew slowly until nearly dry, or if preferred, just boil up once and serve. Mashed Parsnips. — Wash and scrape, dropping at once into cold water to prevent discoloration. Slice thinly and steam, or bake whole until perfectly tender. When done, mash until free from lumps, remov- ing all hard or stringy portions ; add salt to taste and a few spoonfuls of thick sweet cream, and serve. Parsnips with Cream Sauce. — Bake as previously directed. When ten- der, slice, cut into cubes, and pour over them a cream sauce prepared as for Turnips with Cream Sauce. Boil up together once, and serve. Parsnips with Eg'gr Sauce. — Scrape, wash, and slice thinly, enough pars- nips to make three pints; steam, bake, or boil them until very tender. If boiled, turn into a colander and drain well. Have ready an egg sauce, for preparing which heat a pint of rich milk or very thin cream to boiling, stir into it a level tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth with a little milk. Let this boil a few minutes, stirring constantly until the flour is well cooked and the sauce thickened ; then add slowly the well-beaten yolk of one egg, stirring rapidly so that it shall be well mingled with the whole ; add salt to taste ; let it boil up once, pour over the parsnips, and serve. The sauce should be of the consistency of thick cream. VEGETABLES. 245 Parsnips with Potatoes. — Wash, scrape, and slice enough parsnips to make two and a half quarts. Pare and slice enough potatoes to make one pint. Cook together in a small quantity of water. When tender, mash smoothly, add salt, the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and a cup of rich milk. Beat well together, put into an earthen or china dish, and brown lightly in the oven. Stewed Parsnips. — Prepare and boil for a half hour; drain, cover with rich milk, add salt if desired, and stew gently till tender. Stewed Parsnips witli Celery. — Prepare and steam or boil some nice ones until about half done. If boiled, drain thoroughly ; add salt if de- sired, and a tablespoonful of minced celery. Turn rich boiling milk over them, cover, and stew fifteen or twenty minutes, or till perfectly tender, CARROTS. Description. — The garden carrot is a cultivated variety of a plant belonging to the Umbelliferce, and grows wild in many- portions of Europe. The root has long been used for food. By the ancient Greeks and Romans it was much esteemed as a salad. The carrot is said to have been introduced into En- gland by Flemish refugees during the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. Its feathery leaves were used by the ladies as an adornment for their headdresses, in place of plumes. Carrots contain sugar enough for making a syrup from them ; they also yield by fermentation and distillation a spirituous liquor. In Germany they are sometimes cut into small pieces, and roasted as a substitute for coffee. Starch does not enter into the composition of carrots, but a small portion of pectose is found instead. Carrots contain more water than parsnips, and both much cellulose and little nutritive material. Carrots when well cooked form a whole- some food, but one not adapted to weak stomachs, as they are rather hard to digest, and tend to flatulence. Preparation and Cooking. — The suggestions given for the preparation of parsnips are also applicable to carrots ; and they .may be boiled, stea.ned, or browned in the same manner. From one to two hours' time will be required, according to age, size, variety, and method of cooking. 246 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. RECIPES. Boiled Carrots. — Clean, scrape, drop into boiling water, and cook till tender ; drain thoroughly, slice, and serve with a cream sauce. Varieties with strong flavor are better parboiled for iifteen or twenty minutes, and put into fresh boiling water to finish. Carrots with "Egg Sance. — Wash and scrape well ; slice and throw into boiling water, or else steam. When tender, drain thoroughly, and pour over them a sauce prepared the same as for parsnips (page 244), with the addition of a tablespoonful of sugar. Let them boil up once, and serve. Stewed Carrots. — Prepare young and tender carrots, drop into boil- ing water, and cook for fifteen or twenty minutes. Drain, slice, and put into a stewpan with rich milk or cream nearly to cover ; simmer gently until tender ; season with salt and a little chopped parsley. BEETS. Description. — The beet is a native of the coasts of the Mediterranean, and is said to owe its botanical name, deia, to a fancied resemblance to the Greek letter B. Two varieties are in common use as food, the white and the red beet ; while a sub-variety, the sugar beet, is largely cultivated in France, in connection with the beet-sugar industry in that country. The same industry has recently been introduced into this country. It is grown extensively in Germany and Russia, for the same pose, and is also used there in the manufacture of alcohol. The beet root is characterized by its unusual amount of su- gar. It is considered more nutritive than any other esculent tuber except the potato, but the time required for its digestion exceeds that of most vegetables, being three and three fourths hours. Preparation and Cooking. — Beets, like other tubers, should be fresh, unshriveled, and healthy. Wash carefully, scrubbing with a soft brush to remove all particles of dirt ; but avoid scraping, cutting, or breaking, lest the sweet juices escape. In handling for storage, be careful not to bruise or break the skins ; and in purchasing from the market, select only such as are perfect. VEGETABLES. 247 Beets may be boiled, baked, or steamed. In boiling, if the skin is cut or broken, the juice will escape in the water, and the flavor will be injured ; for this reason, beets should not be punctured with a fork to find if done. When tender, the thickest part will yield readily to pressure of the fingers. Beets should be boiled in just as little water as possible, and they will be much better if it has all evaporated by the time they are cooked. Young beets will boil in one hour, while old beets require from three to five hours ; if tough, wilted, and stringy, they cannot be boiled tender. Baked beets require from three to six hours. RECIPES. Baked Beets. — Beets are far better baked than boiled, though it takes a longer time to cook properly. French cooks bake them slowly six hours in a covered dish, the bottom of which is lined with well-moistened rye straw ; however, they may be baked on the oven grate, like potatoes. Wipe dry after washing, and bake slowly. They are very nice served with a sauce made with equal quantities of lemon juice and whipped cream, with a little salt. Baked Beets No. 2. — Wash young and tender beets, and place in an earthen baking dish with a very little water ; as it evaporates, add more, which must be of boiling temperature. Set into a moderate oven, and according to size of the beets, bake slowly from two to three hours. When tender, remove the skins and dress with lemon juice or cream sauce. Beets and Potatoes. — Boil newly matured potatoes and young beets separately till tender ; then peel and slice. Put them in alternate layers in a vegetable dish, with salt to taste, and enough sweet cream nearly to cover. Brown in the oven, and serve at once. Beet Hash. — Chop quite finely an equal quantity of cold boiled or baked beets and boiled or baked potatoes. Put into a shallow saucepan, add salt and sufficient hot cream to moisten. Toss frequently, and cook until well heated throughout. Serve hot. Beet Greens. — Take young, tender beets, clean thoroughly without separating the tops and roots. Examine the leaves carefully, and pick off inferior ones. Put into boiling water, and cook for nearly an hour. Drain, press out all water, and chop quite fine. Serve with a dressing of lemon juice or cream, as preferred. 248 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Beet Salad, or Clioppetl Beets. — Cold boiled or baked beets, chopped quite fine, but not minced, make a nice salad when served with a dressing of lemon juice and whipped cream in the proportion of three tablespoon- fuls of lemon juice to one half cup of whipped cream, and salt if desired. Beet Salad No. 2. — Chop equal parts of boiled beets and fresh young cabbage. Mix thoroughly, add salt to taste, a few tablespoonfuls of sugar, and cover with diluted lemon juice. Equal quantities of cold boiled beets and cold boiled potatoes, chopped fine, thoroughly mixed, and served with a dressing of lemon juice and whipped cream, make a palatable salad. Care should be taken in the preparation of these and the preceding salad, not to chop the vegetables so fine as to admit of their being eaten without mastication. Boiled Beets. — Wash carefully, drop into boiling water, and cook until tender. When done, drop into cold water for a minute, when the skins can be easily rubbed oif with the hand. Slice, and serve hot with lemon juice or with a cream sauce. Stewed Beets. — Bake beets according to recipe No. 2. Peel, cut in slices, turn into a saucepan, nearly cover with thin cream, simmer for ten or fifteen minutes, add salt if desired, and thicken the gravy with a little corn starch or flour. CABBAGE. Description. — The common white garden cabbage is one of the oldest of cultivated vegetables. A variety of the plant known as red cabbage was the delight of ancient gormands more than eighteen centuries ago. The Egyptians adored it, erected altars to it, and made it the first dish at their repasts. In this they were imitated by the Greeks and Romans. Hippocrates, the Father of Medicine, considered the cab- bage one of the most valuable of remedies, and often prescribed a dish of boiled cabbage to be eaten with salt for patients suffering with violent colic. Erasistratus looked upon it as a sovereign remedy against paralysis, while Cato in his writings affirmed it to be a panacea for all diseases, and believed the use the Romans made of it to have been the means whereby they were able, during six hundred years, to do without the assistance of physicians, whom they had expelled from their territory. The learned philosopher, Pythagoras, composed books in which he lauded its wonderful virtues. VEGETABLES. 249 The Germans are so fond of cabbage that it enters into the composition of a majority of their culinary products. The cab- bage was first raised in England about 1640, by Sir Anthony Ashley. That this epoch, important to the English horticult- ural and culinary world, may never be forgotten, a cabbage is represented upon Sir Anthony's monument. The nutritive value of the cabbage is not high, nearly ninety per cent being water ; but it forms an agreeable variety in the list of vegetable foods, and is said to possess marked antiscorbutic virtue. It is, however, difficult of digestion, and therefore not suited to weak stomachs. It would be impossible to sustain life for a lengthened period upon cabbage, since to supply the body with sufficient food elements, the quantity- would exceed the rate of digestion and the capacity of the stomach. M. Chevreul, a French scientist, has ascertained that the peculiar odor given off during the boiling of cabbage is due to the disengagement of sulphureted hydrogen. Cabbage is said to be more easily digested raw than cooked. Preparation and Cooking. — A good cabbage should have a well-developed, firm head, with fresh, crisp leaves, free from worm-holes and decayed portions. To prepare for cooking, remove the outer leaves, divide into quarters, cut off the tough stalk, shake well to free from dirt, and if there are any signs of insects, lay in cold salted water for an hour or so to drive them out. Rinse away the salt water, and if to be boiled, drop into a small quantity of boiling water. Cover closely and boil vigorously until tender. If cooked slowly, it will be watery and stringy, while over-done cabbage is especially insipid and flavorless. If too much water has been used, remove the cover, that evaporation may go on more rapidly ; if too little, replenish with boiling water. Cabbage should be cooked in a porcelain-lined or granite-ware sauce pan or a very clean iron kettle. Cabbage may also be steamed, but care must be taken to have the process as rapid as possible. Fresh young cabbage will cook in about one hour ; old cabbage requires from two to three hours. 2S<^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. RECIPES. Baked Cabbage. — Prepare and chop a firm head of young white cab- bage, boil until tender, drain, and set aside until nearly cold. Then add two well-beaten eggs, salt to taste, and a half cup of thin cream or rich milk. Mix and bake in a pudding dish until lightly browned. Boiled Cabbage. — Carefully clean a nice head of cabbage, divide into halves, and with a sharp knife slice very thin, cutting from the center of the head outward. Put into boiling water, cover closely, and cook rapidly until tender ; then turn into a colander and drain, pressing gently with the back of a plate. Return to the kettle, add salt to taste, and sufficient sweet cream to moisten well, heat through if at all cooled, dish, and serve at once. If preferred, the cream may be omitted, and the cabbage served with tomato sauce or lemon juice as a dressing. Catobage and Tomatoes.— Boil finely chopped cabbage in as little water as possible. When tender, add half the quantity of hot stewed tomatoes, boil together for a few minutes, being careful to avoid burning, season with salt if desired, and serve. If preferred, a little sweet cream may be added just before serving. Cabbage Celery. — A firm, crisp head of cabbage cut in slices half an inch or an inch thick, and then again into pieces four or five inches long and two or three inches wide, makes a quite appetizing substitute for celery. Cabbage Hash. — Chop fine, equal parts of cold boiled potatoes and boiled cabbage, and season with salt. To each quart of the mixture add one half or three fourths of a cup of thin cream ; mix well and boil till well heated. Chopped Cabbage or Cabbage Salad. — Take one pint of finely chopped cabbage ; pour over it a dressing made of three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a half cup of whipped cream, thoroughly beaten together in the order named ; or serve with sugar and diluted lemon juice. Mashed Cabbage. — Cut a fine head of cabbage into quarters, and cook until tender. A half hour before it is done, drop in three good-sized potatoes. When done, take all up in a colander together, press out the water, and mash very fine. Season with cream, and salt if desired. Stewed Cabbage. — Chop nice cabbage quite fine, and put it into boil- ing water, letting it boil twenty minutes. Turn into a colander and drain thoroughly ; return to the kettle, cover with milk, and let it boil till per- fectly tender ; season with salt and cream to taste. The beaten yolk of an egg, stirred in with the cream, is considered an improvement by some. VEGETABLES. 2S I CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI. Description. — These vegetables are botanically allied to the cabbage, and are similar in composition. They are en- tirely the product of cultivation, and constitute the inflores- cence of the plant, which horticultural art has made to grow into a compact head of white color in the cauliflower, and of varying shades of buff, green, and purple in the broccoli. There is very little difference between the two aside from the color, and they are treated alike for culinary purposes. They were known to the Greeks and Romans, and highly appreciated by connoisseurs. They are not as nutritious as the cabbage, but have a more delicate and agreeable flavor. Preparation and Cooking. — The leaves should be green and fresh, and the heads of cauliflower creamy white ; when there are dark spots, it is wilted. The color of broccoli will depend upon the variety, but the head should be firm, with no discolorations. To prepare, pick off the outside leaves, cut the stalk squarely across, about two inches below the flower, and if very thick, split and wash thoroughly in several waters ; or better still, hold it under the faucet, flower downward, and allow a constant stream of water to fall over it for several minutes ; then place top downward in a pan of lukewarm salted water, to drive out any insects which may be hidden in it ; examine carefully for worms just the color of the stalk ; tie in a net (mosquito netting, say) to prevent breaking, or place the cauliflower on a plate in a steamer, and boil, or steam, as is most convenient. The time required for cooking will vary from twenty to forty minutes. REOIPES. (The recipes given are applicable to both broccoli and cauliflower.) Boiled Cauliflower. — Prepare, divide into neat branches, and tie se- curely in a net. Put into boiling milk and water, equal quantities, and cook until the main stalks are tender. Boil rapidly the first five minutes, afterward more moderately, to prevent the flower from becoming done before the stalks. Serve on a hot dish with cream sauce or diluted lemon juice 252 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Browned CanlifloTrer.— Beat together two eggs, a little salt, four tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, and a small quantity of grated bread crumbs well moistened with a little milk, till of the consistency of batter. Steam the cauliflower until tender, separate it into small bunches, dip each top in the mixture, and place in nice order in a pudding dish ; put in the oven and brown. Cauliflower with Egg Sauce.— Steam the cauliflower until tender, sep- arate into small portions, dish, and serve with an egg sauce prepared as directed for parsnips on page 244. Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce.— Boil or steam the cauliflower until tender. In another dish prepare a sauce with a pint of strained stewed tomatoes heated to boiling, thickened with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little water, and salted to taste. When the cauliflower is tender, dish, and pour over it the hot tomato sauce. If preferred, a tablespoonful of thick sweet cream may be added to the sauce before using. Stewed Cauliflower. — Boil in as little water as possible, or steam until tender; separate into small portions, add milk, cream, and salt to taste; stew together for a few minutes, and serve. Scalloped Cauliflower.— Prepare the cauliflower, and steam or boil until tender. If boiled, use equal quantities of milk and water. Separate into bunches of equal size, place in a pudding dish, cover with a white or cream sauce, sprinkle with grated bread crumbs, and brown in the oven. SPINACH. Description. — This plant is supposed to be a native of western Arabia. There are several varieties which are pre- pared and served as " greens." Spinach is largely composed of water. It is considered a wholesome vegetable, with slightly laxative properties. Preparation and Cooking.— Use only tender plants or the tender leaves of the older stalks, and be sure to have enough, as spinach shrinks greatly. A peck is not too much for a family of four or five. Pick it over very carefully, trim off the roots and decayed leaves, and all tough, stringy stalks, and the coarse fibers of the leaves, as those will not cook tender until the leaves are overdone. Wash in several waters, lifting it from one pan to another, that it may be freed from sand and grit. Shake each bunch well. Spinach is best cooked in its own juices; this may be best accomplished by cooking it in a VEGETABLES. 253 double boiler, or if placed in a pot and slowly heated, it will in a short time yield sufficient juice to cook itself. It must, however, be stirred frequently at first, to prevent burning ; cover closely and cook till tender. The time required will vary from twenty minutes to an hour or more. If water is used in the cooking, have a half kettleful boiling when the spinach is put in, and continue to boil rapidly until the leaves are perfectly tender ; then drain in a colander, press with the back of a plate to extract all water, chop very fine, and either serve with lemon juice as a dressing, or add a half cup of sweet cream with or without a teaspoonful of sugar. Boil up once, stirring constantly, and serve very hot. A garnish of sliced boiled eggs is often employed with this vegetable. CELERY. Description. — The common celery is a native of Great Britain. In its wild state it has a strong, disagreeable taste and smell, and is known as smallage. By cultivation it be- comes more mild and sweet. It is usually eaten uncooked as a salad herb, or introduced into soups as a flavoring. In its raw state, it is difficult of digestion. Celery from the market may be kept fresh for some time by wrapping the bunches in brown paper, sprinkling them with water, then wrapping in a damp cloth and putting in some cool, dark place. REOIPES. Celery Salad. — Break the stems apart, cut oif all green portions, and after washing well put in cold water for an hour or so before serving. Stewed Celery. — Cut the tender inner parts of celery heads into pieces about a finger long. The outer and more fibrous stalks may be saved to season soups. Put in a stewpan, and add sufficient water to cover ; then cover the pan closely, and set it where it will just simmer for an hour, or until the celery is perfectly tender. When cooked, add a pint of rich milk, part cream if you have it, salt to taste, and when boiling, stir in a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little milk. Boil up once and serve. 254 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Stewed Celery No. 2. — Cut the white part of fine heads of celery into small pieces, blanch in boiling water, turn into a colander, and drain. Heat a cup and a half of milk to boiling in a stewpan ; add the celery, and stew gently until tender. Remove the celery with a skimmer, and stir into the milk the beaten yolks of two eggs and one half cup of cream. Cook until thickened ; pour over the celery, and serve. Celery with Tomato Sauce. — Prepare the celery as in the preceding recipe, and cook until tender in a small quantity of boiling water. Drain in a colander, and for three cups of stewed celery prepare a sauce with a pint of strained stewed tomato, heated to boiling and thickened with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. If desired, add a half cup of thin cream. Turn over the celery, and serve hot. Celery and Potato Hash. — To three cups of cold boiled or baked potato, chopped rather fine, add one cup of cooked celery, minced. Put into a shallow saucepan with cream enough to moisten well and salt to season. Heat to boiling, tossing and stirring so that the whole will be heated throughout, and serve hot. ASPARAGUS. Description. — The asparagus is a native of Europe, and in its wild state is a sea-coast plant. The young shoots form the edible portion. The plant was known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, who not only used it as a table delicacy but considered it very useful in the treatment of internal diseases. Roman cooks provided themselves with a supply of the vegetable for winter use by cutting fine heads and dry- ing them. When wanted, they were put into hot water and gently cooked. The asparagus is remarkable as containing a crystalline alkaloid called asparagin, which is thought to possess diuretic properties. Preparation and Cooking. — Select fresh and tender asparagus. Those versed in its cultivation, assert that it should be cut at least three times a week, and barely to the ground. If it is necessary to keep the bunches for some time before cooking, stand them, tops uppermost, in water about one half inch deep, in the cellar or other cool place. Clean each stalk separately by swashing back and forth in a pan of VEGETABLES. 255 cold water till perfectly free from sand, then break off all the tough portions, cut in equal lengths, tie in bunches of half a dozen or more with soft tape, drop into boiling water barely sufficient to cover, and simmer gently until perfectly tender. If the asparagus is to be stewed, break (not cut) into small pieces ; when it will not snap off quickly, the stalk is too tough for use. Asparagus must be taken from the water just as soon as tender, while yet firm in appearance. If boiled soft, it loses its flavor and is uninviting. It is a good plan when it is to be divided before cooking, if the stalks are not perfectly tender, to boil the hardest portions first. Asparagus cooked in bunches is well done, if, when held by the thick end in a horizontal position between the fingers, it only bends lightly and does not fall heavily down. The time required for boiling asparagus depends upon its freshness and age. Fresh, tender asparagus cooks in a very few minutes, so quickly, indeed, that the Roman emperor Augustus, intimating that any affair must be concluded with- out delay, was accustomed to say, " Let that be done quicker than you can cook asparagus." Fifteen or twenty minutes will suffice if young and fresh ; if old, from thirty to fifty minutes will be required. REC/PES. Aspara^s and Peas. — Asparagus and green peas make a nice dish served together, and if of proportionate age, require the same length of time to cook. Wash the asparagus, shell and look over the peas, put together into boiling water, cook, and serve as directed for stewed asparagus. Asparagus Points. — Cut off enough heads in two-inch lengths to make three pints. Put into boiling water just sufficient to cover. When tender, drain off the water, add a half cup of cream, and salt if desired. Serve at once. Asparagus on Toast. — Cook the asparagus in bunches, and when ten- der, drain and place on slices of nicely browned toast moistened in the asparagus liquor. Pour over all a cream sauce prepared as directed below. Asparagus with Cream Sauce. — Thoroughly wash, tie in small bunches, and put iuto boiling water ; boil till perfectly tender. Drain thoroughly, 256 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. untie the bunches, place the stalks all the same way upon a hot plate, with a dressing prepared as follows : Let a pint of sweet cream (about six hours old is best) come to the boiling point, and stir into it salt to taste and a level tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth with a little cold cream. Boil till the flour is perfectly cooked, and then pass through a fine wire strainer. Asparagus with Egg Sauce. — Prepare and cook asparagus as directed above. When tender, drain thoroughly, and serve on a hot dish or on slices of nicely browned toast, with an egg sauce prepared in the follow- ing manner : Heat a half cup of rich milk to boiling, add salt, and turn into it very slowly the well-beaten yolk of an egg, stirring constantly at the same time. Let the whole just thicken, and remove from the fire at once. Stewed Asparagus. — Wash, break into inch pieces, simmer till tender in water just to cover, add sufficient rich milk, part cream if convenient, to make a gravy, thicken slightly with flour, a teaspoonful to a pint of milk ; add salt if desired, boil up together once, and serve. SEA=KALE. Description. — This plant, a native of Britain, and much esteemed as a vegetable in England and on the Continent, is also in its wild state a sea-coast plant. When properly cooked, it is nutritious and easy of digestion. In appearance and flavor it greatly resembles asparagus, and the suggestions for cooking and recipes given for that vegetable are applicable to sea-kale. LETTUCE AND RADISH. Description. — These two vegetables, although wholly dif- ferent, the one being the leaf of a plant, the other the root, are both so commonly served as relishes that we will speak of them together. Both have long been known and used. Wild lettuce is said to be the bitter herb which the Hebrews ate with the Paschal lamb. The ancient Greek and Roman epicures valued lettuce highly ,'and bestowed great care upon its cultivation, in some instances watering the plants with sweet wine instead of water, in order to communicate to them a delicate perfume and flavor. The common garden lettuce of the present day VEGETABLES. 257 is a hardy plant, which supplies an agreeable, digestible, and, when served with a wholesome dressing, unobjectionable salad. The common radish is supposed to be indigenous to China. Ancient writers on foods mention the radish as used by the early Greeks and Romans, who fancied that at the end of three years its seed would produce cabbages. They had also the sin- gular custom of making the radish the ignominious projectile with which in times of tumult the mob pursued persons whose political opinions had made them obnoxious. When quiet was restored, the disgraced vegetable was boiled and eaten with oil and vinegar. Common garden radishes are of different shapes and of various colors on the outside, there being black, violet, red, and white radishes. The inside portion of all, however, is white. They are sometimes cooked, but more commonly served raw. A dish of crisp, coral radishes adds beauty to the appearance of the table, but they are not possessed of a high nutritive value, being very similar to the turnip in composition, and unless very young, tender, and when eaten thoroughly masticated, are quite difficult of digestion. RECIPES. Lettuce. — Wash well, put into cold water, and set on ice or on the cel- lar bottom for an hour or more before using. Dry the leaves with a soft towel and use whole or tear into convenient pieces with a silver fork ; never cut with a knife. Serve with a dressing prepared of equal quantities of lemon juice and sugar, diluted with a little ice water ; or, with a dressing of cream and sugar, in the proportion of three or four tablespoonfuls of thin cream to a teaspoonful of sugar. The dressing may be prepared, and after the sugar is dissolved, a very little lemon juice (just enough to thicken the cream slightly, but not sufficient to curdle it) may be added if desired. Tomato Dressing for Lettnee.— To one cupful of stewed, strained tomato, use one tablespoonful of lemon juice with salt to season. Radishes. — Wash thoroughly young and tender radishes, and arrange in a glass dish with the taper ends meeting. An inch of the stem, if left on, serves as a convenience in handling. 17 258 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. CYMilNG, SUMMER SQUASH, or VEGETABLE MARROW. Description. — The vegetable marrow (sometimes called cymling) is thought to be a variety of the common gourd, from which also the pumpkin and winter squash appear to have been derived. It is easily digested, but on account of the abundance of water in its composition, its nutritive value is very low. Preparation and Cooking. — When very young, most va- rieties need no preparation for cooking, aside from washing thoroughly. After cooking, the skin can be easily rubbed off and the seeds removed. If more mature, pare thinly, and if large, divide into halves or quarters and scoop out the seeds. Summer squashes are better steamed than boiled. If boiled, they should be cooked in so little water that it will be quite evaporated when they are tender. From twenty to sixty minutes will be required for cooking. RECIPES. Mashed Squash. — Wash, peel, remove seeds, and steam until tender. Place the squash in a clean cloth, mash thoroughly, squeeze until the squash is quite dry, or rub through a fine colander and afterward simmer until nearly dry ; season with cream, and a little salt if desired, and heat again before serving. A teaspoonful of sugar may be added with the cream, if desired. Sqnash with Egg' Sauce. — Prepare, steam till tender, cut into pieces, and serve with an egg sauce made the same as directed for asparagus, page 256. Stewed Squash. — Prepare, cut into pieces, and stew until tender in a small quantity of boiling water ; drain, pressing out all the water ; serve on toast with cream or white sauce. Or, divide in quarters, remove the seeds, cook in a double boiler, in its own juices, which when done may be thickened with a little flour. Season with salt if desired, and serve hot. VEGETABLES. 259 WINTER SQUASHES. The winter squash and pumpkin are allied in nature to the summer squash. Preparation and Cooking. — Select squashes of a firm texture, wash, break in pieces with a hatchet if hard-shell, or if the shell is soft, divide with a knife ; remove all seeds, and boil, stew, steam, or bake, as preferred. To boil or steam, from thirty minutes to one hour's time will be needed ; to bake, one to two hours. REC/PES. Baked Sqnash. — The hard-shell varieties are best for baking. Wash, divide, and lay, shells downward, on the top grate of the oven, or place in a shallow baking dish with a little boiling water. Bake until tender, serve in the shell, or scrape out the soft part, mash and serve with two large tablespoonfuls of cream to a pint of squash. If preferred, the skins may be removed before baking, and the squash served the same as sweet po- tato, for which it makes a good substitute. Steamed Sqnasb. — Prepare the squash, and steam until tender. Mash and season as for baked squash. THE PUMPKIN. Description. — When our forefathers came to this country, they found the pumpkin growing in the Indian cornfields, and at once made use of it. Although as food it did not supply what its handsome exterior promised, yet in the absence of other fruits and relishes, of which the exigencies of a new country deprived them, they soon found the pumpkin quite palatable ; and the taste, cultivated through necessity, has been handed down through generations, until the pumpkin stewed and baked in pies, has become an established favorite. 26o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. REC/PBS. Baked PnmpMn. — Wash the pumpkin well on the outside, divide into quarters if small, into sixths or eighths if large ; remove the seeds but not the rind. Bake as directed for squash. Serve in the rind, dishing it out by spoonfuls. Stewed Pumpkin. — Select a good, ripe pumpkin, and cut in halves ; remove the seeds, slice halfway around, pare, cut into inch pieces, put over the fire in a kettle containing a small quantity of boiling water, and stew gently, stirring frequently until it breaks to piecer Cool, rub through a colander, and place where it will just simmer, but not burn, until the water is all evaporated and the pumpkin dry. Pumpkin for pies is much richer baked like squash, and rubbed through a colander after the skin has been removed. Dried Pumpkin. — Pumpkin may be dried and kept for future use. The best way is first to cut and stew the pumpkin, then spread on plates, and dry quickly in the oven. Dried in this manner, it is easily softened, when needed, by soaking in a small quantity of water, and is considered nearly as good as that freshly stewed. TOMATO. Description. — The tomato, or " love apple," as it was called in the early part of the century, is a native of South America and Mexico. It was formerly regarded as poisonous, and though often planted and prized as a curiosity in the flower garden, it has only within the last half century come to Lj considered as a wholesome article of diet. Botanically, it is allied to the potato. It is an acid fruit, largely com- posed of water, and hence of low nutritive value ; but it is justly esteemed as a relish, and is very serviceable to the cook in the preparation of soups and various mixed dishes. Preparation and Cooking. — Tomatoes to be served in an uncooked state should be perfectly ripe and fresh. The medium-sized, smooth ones are the best. To peel, pour scald- ing water over them ; let them remain for half a minute, plunge into cold water, allow them to cool, when the skins can be easily rubbed off. Tomatoes should always be cooked in porce- lain or granite ware ; iron makes them look dark, and being VEGETABLES. 26 1 slightly acid in character, they are not wholesome cooked in tin vessels. Tomatoes require cooking a long time ; one hour is needed, and two are better. RECIPES. Baked Tomatoes. — Fill a pudding dish two thirds full of stewed tomatoes ; season with salt, and sprinkle grated crumbs of good whole- wheat or Graham bread over it until the top looks dry. Brown in the oven, and serve with or without a cream dressing. Baked Tomatoes No. 2. — Wash and wipe a quantity of smooth, even- sized tomatoes ; remove the stems with a sharp-pointed knife. Arrange on an earthen pudding or pie dish, and bake whole in a moderate oven. Serve with cream. Scalloped Tomatoes. — Take a pint of stewed tomatoes, which have been rubbed through a colander, thicken with one and one fourth cups of lightly picked crumbs of Graham or whole-wheat bread, or a suffi- cient quantity to make it quite thick, add salt to season, and, if desired, a half cup of sweet cream, mix well, and bake for twenty minutes. Or, fill a pudding dish with alternate layers of peeled and sliced tomatoes and bread crumbs, letting the topmost layer be of tomatoes. Cover, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour or longer, according to depth. Uncover, and brown for ten or fifteen minutes. Stewed Corn and Tomatoes. — Boil dried or fresh corn until perfectly tender, add to each cup of corn two cups of stewed, strained tomatoes, either canned or freshly cooked. Salt to taste, boil together for five or ten minutes, and serve plain or with a little cream added. Tomato Gravy. — Heat to boiling one pint of strained stewed tomatoes, either canned or fresh, and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little water ; add salt and when thickened, if desired, a hall cup of hot cream. Boil together for a minute or two and serve at once. Tomato Salad. — Select perfectly ripe tomatoes, and peel at least an hour before using. Slice, and place on ice or in a cool place. Serve plain or with lemon juice or sugar as preferred. Tomato Salad No. 2. — Use one half small yellow tomatoes and one half red. Slice evenly and lay in the dish in alternate layers. Powder lightly with sugar, and turn over them a cupful of orange juice to the pint of tomato, or if preferred, the juice of lemons may be used instead. Set on ice and cool before serving. Broiled Tomatoes. — Choose perfectly ripened but firm tomatoes of equal size. Place them on a wire broiler, and broil over glowing coals, 262 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. from three to eight minutes, according to size, then turn and coolc on the other side. Broil the stem end first. Serve hot with salt to season, and a little nut cream. Tomato Padding'. — Fill an earthen pudding dish with alternate layers of stale bread and fresh tomatoes, peeled, sliced, and sprinkled lightly with sugar. Cover the dish and bake. Stewed Tomatoes Peel and slice the tomatoes. Put them into a double boiler, without the addition of water, and stew for an hour or longer. When done, serve plain with a Httle sugar added, or season with salt and a tablespoonful of nut butter to each pint of tomatoes. If the tomatoes are thin and very juicy, they may be thickened with a little flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. They are much better, however, to stew a longer time, or until the water they contain is sufficiently evaporated to make them of the desired consistency. The stew may also be thick- ened, if desired, by the addition of bread crumbs, rice, or macaroni. Tomato mth Okra. — Wash the okra, cut off the stem and nibs, and slice thin. For a quart of sliced okra, peel and slice three large toma- toes. Stew the tomatoes for half an hour, then add the okra, and simmer together for half an hour longer. Season with salt and a little cream. EGG PLANT. Description. — The egg plant, a vegetable indigenous to the East Indies, is somewhat allied in character to the tomato. In shape, it resembles an egg, from which fact it doubtless de- rives its name. It ranks low in nutritive value. When fresh, the plant is firm and has a smooth skin. RECIPES. Scalloped E^g Plant. — Pare a fresh egg plant. If large, divide in quarters, if small, in halves, and put to cook in boiling water. Cook until it can be easily pierced with a straw, and drain in a colander. Turn into a hot dish, and beat with a silver fork until finely broken. Measure the egg plant, and add to it an equal quantity of grated bread crumbs, a little salt, and a tablespoonful of thick sweet cream. Lastly, add one well beaten eg^. Put in an earthen pudding dish, and brown in the oven until the egg is set, and the whole is heated throughout but not dry. Baked Eg'g Plant. — Wash and cook whole in boiling water until tender. Divide in halves, remove the inside with a spoon, taking care not to break the skin. Beat the egg plant smooth with a fork. Season with salt and VEGETABLES. 263 cream, and if desired, a stalk of celery or a small slice of onion very finely minced, for flavor. Put back in the skin, sprinkle the top with bread crumbs, and brown the cut side uppermost in the oven. CUCUMBER. Description. — The cucumber is a native of Southern Asia, although it is quite commonly cultivated in most civilized countries. It formed a part of the dietary of the Israelites when in Egypt, where it grew very plentifully. The ancient Greeks held the cucumber in high esteem, and attributed to it wonderful properties. The cucumber is not a nutritious vegetable, and when served in its raw state, as it so generally is, dressed with salt, vinegar, pepper, and similar condiments, it is an exceedingly indigesti- ble article. If it is to be eaten at all, it should first be cooked. It may be pared, divided in quarters, the seeds removed, and cooked in a small quantity of water until perfectly tender, and served on toast with an egg sauce or a cream sauce ; or it may be prepared the same as directed for Escalloped Egg Plant. SALSIFY, OR VEGTABLB OYSTER. Description. — The vegetable oyster plant, sometimes called purple goat's-beard, or salsify, is indigenous to some portions of Great Britain. The long, slender root becomes fleshy and tender under cultivation, with a flavor, when cooked, somewhat resembling that of the mollusk for which it is named. On this account, it is much esteemed for soups. A variety of the plant grows near the line of perpetual snow, and forms the principal article of fresh vegetable food in the dietary of Kur- distan. Preparation and Cooking. — Select fresh and unshriveled roots, wash and scrape well, dropping into cold water as soon as cleaned, to prevent discoloration. If the roots are covered with cold water for a half hour or more before scraping, they can be cleaned much easier. Use a porcelain-lined kettle, for •264 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. cooking, as an iron one will discolor it and injure its flavor. From twenty minutes to one hour, according to age, is re- quired to cook it tender. RECIPES. Scalloped Vegetable Oysters. — Boil two quarts of sliced vegetable oysters in about two quarts of water until very tender. Skim them out, and fill a pudding dish with alternate layers of crumbs and oysters, having a layer of crumbs for the top. To the water in which they were boiled, add a pint and a half of thin cream, salt to taste, boil up, and thicken with a heaping tablespoonful or two of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold cream. Pour this over the oysters and crumbs, and bake a half hour. If this is not enough to cover well, add more cream or milk. Stewed tomatoes are a nice accompaniment for escalloped vegetable oysters. Stewed Vegetable Oysters. — Wash, scrape, and cut into slices not more than one half inch in thickness. Put into a small quantity of boiling water and cook until tender. If a large quantity of water is used, the savory juices escape, and leave the roots very insipid. When tender, pour in a cup of rich milk and simmer for five or ten minutes ; add a little flour rubbed smooth in milk, and salt if desired ; boil up once, and serve as a vegetable or on slices of nicely browned toast. If preferred, a well- beaten egg may be used in the place of flour. GREEN CORN, PEAS, AND BEANS. Description. — Corn, peas, and beans in their immature state are so nearly allied to vegetables, that we give in this connection recipes for cooking green corn, green beans, and green peas. A general rule applicable to all is that they should, when possible, be cooked and eaten the day they are gathered, as otherwise they lose much of their sweetness and flavor. For corn, select young, tender, well-filled ears, from which the milk will spurt when the grain is broken with the finger nail. Beans and peas are fresh only when the pods are green, plump, snap crisply when broken, and have unshriveled stems. If the pods bend and appear wilted, they are stale. Corn, peas, and beans are wholesome and nutritious foods when thoroughly cooked and sufficiently masticated, but they are almost indi- gestible unless the hull, or skin, of each pea, bean, or grain of corn, be broken before being swallowed. VEGETABLES. 265 RECIPES FOR CORN. Baked Corn. — Select nice fresh ears of tender corn of as nearly equal size as possible. Open the husks and remove all the silk from the corn ; replace and tie the husks around the ears with a thread. Put the corn in a hot oven, and bake thirty minutes or until tender. Remove the husks before serving. Baked Corn No. 2. — Scrape enough corn from the cob (as directed be- low for Corn Pulp) to make one and a half quarts. Put into a baking dish, season with salt if desired, add enough milk, part cream if convenient, barely to cover the corn, and bake in a hot oven twenty-five or thirty minutes. Boiled Green Com. — Remove the husks and every thread of the silk fiber. Place in a kettle, the larger ears at the bottom, with sufficient boil- ing water nearly to cover. Cover with the clean inner husks, and cook from twenty to thirty minutes, according to the age of the corn ; too much cooking hardens it and detracts from its flavor. Try a kernel, and when the milk has thickened, and a raw taste is no longer apparent, it is suffi- ciently cooked. Green corn is said to be sweeter, boiled with the inner husks on. For cooking in this way, strip off all outer husks, and remove the silk, tying the inner husk around the ear with a bit of thread, and boil. Remove from the kettle, place in a heated dish, cover with a napkin and serve at once on the cob. Some recommend scoring or splitting the corn by drawing a sharp knife through each row lengthwise. This is a wise precaution against insufficient mastication. Stewed Corn Folp. — Take six ears of green corn or enough to make a pint of raw pulp ; with a sharp knife cut a thin shaving from each row of kernels or score each kernel, and with the back of the knife scrape out the pulp, taking care to leave the hulls on the cob. Heat a cup and a half of rich milk — part cream if it can be afforded — to boiling, add the corn, cook twenty or thirty minutes ; season with salt and a teaspoonful of sugar if desired. Com Cakes. — To a pint of corn pulp add two well-beaten eggs and two tablespoonfuls of flour ; season with salt if desired, and brown on a grid- dle. Canned corn finely chopped can be used, but two tablespoonfuls of milk should be added, as the corn is less moist. Corn Pudding:. — One quart of corn pulp prepared as for stewing, one quart of milk, three eggs, and a little salt. Mix the corn with a pint of the milk, and heat it to boiling. Break the eggs into the remainder of the milk, and add it to the corn, turn all into an oiled pudding dish, and bake slowly until the custard is well set. Roasted Green Corn. — Remove the husks and silk, and place the corn before an open grate or in a wire broiler over hot coals until the kernels 266 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. burst open, or bury in hot ashes without removing the husks. Score the grains, and serve from the cob. Stewed Green Corn.— Cut the corn from the cob and with the back of the knife scrape off all the pulp, being careful to leave the hull on the cob. Put into a stewpan with half as much water as corn, cover closely and stew gently until thoroughly cooked, stirring frequently to prevent the corn from sticking to the pan ; add cream or milk to make the requisite amount of juice, and season with salt if desired. A teaspoonful of white sugar may be added if desired. Cold boiled corn cut from the cob and stewed a few minutes in a little milk, makes a very palatable dish. Summer Succotash,— This may be made by cooking equal quantities of shelled beans and corn cut from the cob, separately until tender, and then mixing them ; or the beans may be cooked until nearly soft, an equal quantity of shaved corn added, and the whole cooked fifteen or twenty minutes or longer. Season with cream, and salt if desired. Dried Com. — The sweet varieties of corn taken when young and ten- der and properly dried, furnish an excellent material for nearly all pur- poses to which g^een corn is put. Take green corn, just right for eating, have it free from silk ; cut the fleshy portion from the cob with a sharp knife, then with the back of the knife gently press the remaining pulp from the cob. Spread thinly on plates and put into an oven hot enough to scald, not scorch it. Watch closely for a half hour or more, turning and stirring frequently with a fork. When thus thoroughly scalded, the corn may be left without further attention if placed in a moderate oven, save an occasional stirring to prevent its sticking to the plate, until the drying is complete, which ought to be in about forty-eight hours ; however, if one can spend the time to watch closely and stir very frequently, the drying may be |completed in a single afternoon in a rather hot oven. Be careful that it does not scorch. When needed for use, soak over night and cook in accordance with recipes for Stewed Corn, Succotash, etc., pages 265, 224, only remembering to allow a longer time. RECIPE FOR PEAS. Stewed Peas. — If from the garden, pick and shell the peas with clean hands ; if from the market, wash the pods before shelling, so that the peas will not require washing, as they are much better without. When shelled, put into a colander and sift out the fine particles and undeveloped blos- soms. If not of equal growth, sort the peas and put the older ones to cook tenminutes before the others. Use a porcelain kettle, with one half VEGETABLES. 267 pint of boiling water for each quart of peas, if young and tender ; older ones, which require longer stewing, need more. Cover closely, and sim- mer gently till tender. The time required for young peas is from twenty- five to thirty minutes; older ones require from forty to fifty minutes. Serve without draining, season with salt and enough sweet cream to make them as juicy as desired. If preferred, the juice may be thickened with a little flour. The peas may be purposely stewed in a larger quantity of water, and served in their own juices thickened with a little flour and seasoned with salt. RECIPES FOR BEANS. Lima Beans. — Lima beans are not good until they are full grown and have turned white. Shell, wash, cover with boiling water, and cook about one hour or until tender. Let the water nearly evaporate, and add milk or cream thickened with a little flour. Season with salt to taste, boil up once, and serve. Shelled Beans. — Shell, wash, drop into boiling water sufficient to cover, and cook until tender. Let the water boil nearly away, and serve without draining. Season with thin cream, and salt if desired. String Beans. — Wash well in cold water. Remove the strong fiber, or strings, as they are called, by paring both edges with a sharp knife ; few cooks do this thoroughly. Break off stems and points, carefully rejecting any imperfect or diseased pods. Lay a handful evenly on a board and cut them all at once into inch lengths. Put in a porcelain kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook from one to three hours, according to age and variety, testing frequently, as they should be removed from the kettle just as soon as done. When very young and tender, only water sufficient to keep them from burning will be needed. When done, add a half cup of thin cream, and salt to taste. If the quantity of juice is considerable, thicken with a little flour. THE ONION. The onion belongs to a class of foods containing an acrid oil of a strongly irritating character, on which account it cannot be considered a wholesome food when eaten raw, as it so gen- erally is. The essential oil is, however, quite volatile, so that when cooked, after being first parboiled in two or three waters, its irritating properties are largely removed. The varieties grown in warm climates are much milder and sweeter than 268 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. those grown in colder countries. The onion is valuable for flavoring purposes. It may also be boiled and served whole with a cream sauce, or cut in quarters and prepared as directed for Scalloped Turnips, page 242. CANNING VEGETABLES. Most housekeepers experience more difficulty in canning and keeping vegetables than fruit. This is frequently owing to lack of care to secure perfect cans, covers, and rubbers, and to cook the vegetables thoroughly. Whatever is to be canned must be cooked sufficiently to be eaten, and must be boiling at the time it is put into the cans. Care as to the cleanliness of the cans and their sterilization is also important, and after the canning process is completed, all vegetables put up in glass should be kept in a cool, dark place. The general directions given for canning fruits should be followed in canning vege- tables. RECIPES. Canned Com. — Select corn just ripe enough for table use, and prepare as directed for stewed corn. It will require from twelve to fifteen ears to fill sufficiently each quart can. To insure success, the cans should be so full that when the corn is shrunken by the cooking, the can will still be well filled. Pack the corn in the cans, working it down closely by means of the small end of a potato masher, so the milk will cover the corn and completely fill the can ; heap a little more corn loosely on the top, and screw the covers on sufficiently tight to prevent water from getting into the can. Place the cans in a boiler, on the bottom of which has been placed some straw or a rack ; also take care not to let the cans come in contact with each other, by wrapping each in a cloth or by placing a chip between them. A double layer of cans may be placed in the boiler, one on top of the other, if desirable, provided there is some intervening sub- stance. Fill the boiler with cold water so as completely to cover the cans ; place over the fire, bring gradually to a boil, and keep boiling steadily for four hours. Remove the boiler from the fire, and allow the cans to cool gradually, tightening the covers frequently as they cool. If the corn in the can shrinks, do not open to refill. If cooked thoroughly, and due care is taken in other particulars, there need be no VEGETABLES. 269 failure. Wrap closely in brown paper, and put away in a dark, cool, dry place. Canned Corn and Tomatoes. — Use about one third corn and two thirds tomatoes, or in equal portions if preferred. Cook the tomatoes in a double boiler for an hour and a half or longer ; and in another double boiler, when the tomatoes are nearly done, cook the corn in its own juices until thoroughly done. Turn them together, heat to boiling, and can at once. Canned Peas. — Select peas which are fresh, young, and tender. Shell, pack into perfect cans, shaking and filling as full as possible, add suffi- cient cold water to fill them to overflowing, screw on the covers, and cook and seal the same as directed for canning corn. Canned Tomatoes. — Tomatoes for canning should be freshly gathered, ripe, but not at all softened. As they are best cooked in their own juices, peel, slice, put into a double boiler or a porcelain fruit-ket'tle set inside a dish filled with boiling water, and cook from one to two hours. Cooked in the ordinary way, great care will be required to keep the fruit from burning. When thoroughly cooked — simple scalding will not do — put into cans, and be sure that all air bubbles are expelled before sealing. Wrap in dark brown paper, and put in a cool, dry, dark place. Canned Tomatoes No. 2. — Cut the fruit into thick slices, let it stand and drain until a large portion of the juice has drained off; then pack solid in new or perfect cans. Allow them to stand a little time, then again drain off the juice; fill up a second time with sliced tomatoes, and screw on the top of the cans without the rubbers. Pack into a wash boiler as directed for canning corn, and boil for two hours, then put on the rubbers and seal. When cold, tighten the covers and put away. String Beans. — Select young and tender beans, string them, and cut into pieces about one half inch in length. Pack the cans as full as pos- sible, and fill with water until every crevice between the beans is full. Screw on the covers and can in the same manner as corn. Shelled beans may be canned in the same way. Canned Pnmpkin and Squash. — These fruits when canned are quite as desirable for pies as the fresh material. The same general rules should be followed as in canning other vegetables and fruits. TABLE TOPICS. The word "vegetarian" is not derived from " vegetable," but from the Latin, homo vegetus, meaning among the Romans a strong, robust, thoroughly healthy man. An Intellectual Feast. — Professor Louis Agassiz in his early manhood visited Germany to consult Oken, the transcendentalist in zoological classification. "After I had delivered to him my letter of introduction," he once said to a friend, " Oken asked me to dine with him, and you may suppose with what joy I accepted the invitation. The dinner consisted only of potatoes, boiled and roasted ; but it was the best dinner I ever ate ; for there was Oken. Never before were such potatoes grown on this planet ; for the mind of the man seemed to enter into what we ate sociably together, and I devoured his intellect while munching his potatoes." Dr. Abernethy's recipe for using cucumbers: "Peel the cucumber, slice it, pepper it, put vinegar to it, then throw it out the window." A GREEN son of the Emerald Isle was eating sweet corn from the cob for the first time. He handed the cob to the waiter, and asked, " Will you plaze put some more beans on my shtick ? " A French physician styles spinach ie halai de Pestomac (broom of the stomach). An ox is satisfied with the pasture of an acre or two ; one wood suffices for sev- eral elephants. Man alone supports himself by the pillage of the whole earth and sea. What ? Has Nature indeed given us so insatiable a stomach, while she has given us so insignificant bodies ? No ; it is not the hunger of our stomachs, but in- satiable covetousness which costs so much. — Seneca. The oftener we go to the vegetable world for our food, the oftener we go to the first and therefore the cheapest source of supply. The tendencies of all advanced scholars in thrift should be to find out plans for feeding all the community, as far as possible, direct from the lap of earth ; to impress science into our service so that she may prepare the choicest viands minus the necessity of making a lower animal the living laboratory for the sake of what is iust a little higher than cannibal propensities. — Dr. B. W. Richardson. A Voice from the Corn. I was made to be eaten, not to be drank. To be husked in a barn, not soaked in a tank ; I come as a blessing when put in a mill. As a blight and a curse when run through a still. Make me up into loaves, and your children are fed ; But made into drink, I will starve them instead. In bread I'm a servant the eater shall rule. In drink I'm a master, the drinker a fool. Then remember my warning ; my strength I'll employ. If eaten, to strengthen, if drunk, to destroy. — Sel, [270] s^^l OUP is an easily made, economical, and when properly j^^^ prepared from healthful and nutritious material, a whole- jrs)/^ some article of diet. A thick soup or pjirce is prefer- ^^' ' able because it adds less fluid with the meal. In general, when soup is mentioned, some preparation of meat and bones is supposed to be meant ; but we shall treat in this chapter of a quite different class of soups, viz., those pre- pared from the grains, legumes, and vegetables, without the previous preparation of a "stock." Soups of this character are in every way equal, and in many points superior, to those made from meat and bones. If we compare the two, we shall find that soups made from the grains and legumes rank much higher in nutritive value than do meat soups. For the prepara- tion of the latter, one pound of meat and bones, in about equal proportion, is required for each quart of soup. In the bone, there is little or no nourishment, it being valuable simply for the gelatine it contains, which gives consistency to the soup ; so in reality there is only one half pound of material contain- ing nutriment, for the quart of soup. Suppose, in comparison, [271! 2/2 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. we take a pea soup. One half pound of peas will be amply enough for a quart. As we take an equal amount of material as basis for each soup, we can easily determine their relative value by comparing the amount of nutritive material contained in peas with that of beef, the most commonly used material for meat soups. As will be seen by reference to the table of food analyses on page 486, peas contain 87.3 parts nutritive ma- terial, while lean beef contains only 28 parts in one hundred. Thus the pea soup contains more than three times as much nourishment as does the beef soup. Soups prepared from grains and legumes are no more ex- pensive than meat soups, and many kinds cost much less, while they have the added advantage of requiring less time and no more labor to prepare. The greater bulk of all meat soups is water, holding in solution the essence of meat, the nutritive value of which is of very doubtful character. When properly prepared, the solid matter which enters into the composition of vegetable soups, is so broken up in the pro- i;ess of cooking, that it is more easily digested than in any other form. Taken hot at the beginning of a meal, soup stimulates the flow of the digestive juices, and on account of the bulk, brings a sense of satiety before an excessive quantity of food has been taken. In preparing soups from grains, legumes, and vegetables, the material should be first cooked in the ordinary manner, using as small an amount of water as practicable, so as the more thoroughly to disintegrate or break it up. If the material be legumes or grains, the cooking should be slow and pro- longed. The purpose to be attained in the cooking of all foods is the partial digestion of the food elements ; and in general, with these foods, the more slowly (if continuous) the cooking is done, the more completely will this be brought about. When the material is cooked, the next step is to make it homogeneous throughout, and to remove any skins or cellulose material it may contain. To do this, it should be put through SOUPS. 2/3 a colander. The kind of colander depends upon the material. Peas and beans require a fine colander, since the skins, of wliich we are seeking to rid them, would easily go through a coarse one. To aid in this sifting process, if the material be at all dry, a small quantity of liquid may be added from time to time. When the colander process is complete, a sufficient amount of milk or other liquid may be added to make the whole of the consistency of rather thick cream. If the material is now cold, it must be reheated, and the salt, if any is to be used, added. The quantity of salt will depend somewhat upon the taste of the consumer ; but in general, one Chinese Soup Strainer. half teaspoonful to the pint of soup will be an ample supply. If any particular flavor, as of onion or celery, is desired, it may be imparted to the soup by adding to it a slice of onion or a few stalks of celery, allowing them to remain during the reheat- ing. By the time the soup is well heated, it will be delicately flavored, and the pieces of onion or celery may be removed with a fork or a skimmer. It is better, in general, to cook the soup all that is needed before flavoring, since if allowed to boil, all delicate flavors are apt to be lost by evaporation. When re- heated, add to the soup a quantity of cream or nut cream as seasoning, in the proportion of one cup of thin cream for every quart or three pints of soup. To avoid the possibility of any lumps or fragments in the soup, pour it again through a colander or a Chinese soup 274 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. strainer into the soup tureen, and serve. It is well to take the precaution first to heat the strainer and tureen, that the soup be not cooled during the process. If it is desired to have the soup especially light and nice, beat the cream or nut cream before adding, or beat the hot soup with an egg beater for a few minutes after adding it. The well-beaten yolk of an egg for every quart or three pints of soup, will answer as a very fair substitute for cream in po- tato, rice, and similar soups. It should not be added to the body of the soup, but a cupful of the hot soup may be turned slowly onto the egg, stirring all the time, in order to mix it well without curdling, and then the cupful stirred into the whole. Soups made from legumes are excellent without cream. The consistency of the soup when done should be about that of single cream, and equal throughout, containing no lumps or fragments of material. If it is too thick, it may be easily diluted with hot milk or water ; if too thin, it will require the addition of more material, or may be thickened with a little flour or cornstarch rubbed to a cream with a small quantity of milk, used in the proportion of one tablespoonful for a quart of soup, — heaping, if flour; scant, if cornstarch, — and remembering always to boil the soup five or ten minutes after the flour is added, that there may be no raw taste. The addition of the flour or cornstarch gives a smoothness to their consistency which is especially desirable for some soups. A few spoonfuls of cooked oatmeal or cracked wheat, added and rubbed through the colander with the other ma- terial, is valuable for the same purpose. Browned flour pre- pared by spreading a cupful thinly on shallow tins, and placing in a moderately hot oven, stirring frequently until lightly and evenly browned, is excellent to use both for thickening and flavoring certain soups. If whole grains, macaroni, vermicelli, or shredded vegetables are to be used in the soup, cook them separately, and add to the soup just before serving. The nutritive value of soup depends of course upon its in- gredients, and these should be so chosen and combined as to SOUPS. 275 produce the best possible food from the material employed. Milk is a valuable factor in the preparation of soups. With such vegetables as potatoes, parsnips, and others of the class composed largely of starch, and containing but a small propor- tion of the nitrogenous food elements, its use is especially important as an addition to their food value, as also to their palatableness. Very good soups may, however, be made from legumes, if carefully cooked with water only. Soups offer a most economical way of making use of the " left-over " fragments which might otherwise be consigned to the refuse bucket. A pint of cold mashed potatoes, a cupful of stewed beans, a spoonful or two of boiled rice, stewed tomatoes, or other bits of vegetables and grains, are quite as good for soup purposes as fresh material, provided they have been pre- served fresh and sweet. To insure this it is always best to put them away in clean dishes ; if retained in the dish from which they were served, the thin smears and small crumbs on the sides which spoil much sooner than the larger portion, will help to spoil the rest. One may find some difficulty in rubbing them through the colander unless they are first moistened. Measure the cold food, and then determine how much liquid will be needed, and add a part of this before attempting to put through the colander. It is difficult to give specific directions for making soups of fragments, as the remnants to be utilized will vary so much in character as to make such inapplicable, but the recipes given for combination soups will perhaps serve as an aid in this direc- tion. Where a sufficient amount of one kind of food is left over to form the basis of a soup or to serve as a seasoning, it can be used in every way the same as fresh material. When, however, there is but a little of various odds and ends, the general rule to be observed is to combine only such materials as harmonize in taste. Soups prepared from the grains, legumes, and vegetables, are so largely composed of food material that it is important that they be retained in the mouth long enough for proper insaliva- tion ; and in order to insure this, it is well to serve with the 276 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. soup croutons, prepared by cutting stale bread into small squares or cubes, and browning thoroughly in a moderate oven. Put a spoonful or two of the croutons in each plate, and turn the hot soup over them. This plan also serves another purpose, — that of providing a means whereby the left-over bits of stale bread may be utilized to advantage. REOIPES. Soups without Milk. Baked Bean Sonp. — Soak a half pint of white beans over night. In the morning turn off the water, and place them in an earthen dish with two or two and one half quarts of boiling water ; cover and let them simmer in a moderate oven four or five hours. Also soak over night a tablespoonful of pearl tapioca in sufficient water to cover. When the beans are soft, rub through a colander, after which add the soaked tapioca, and salt if desired ; also as much powdered thyme as can be taken on the point of a penknife and sufficient water to make the soup of proper consistency if the water has mostly evaporated. Return to the oven, and cook one half hour longer. Bean and Tomato Soup. — Take one pint of boiled or a little less of mashed beans, one pint of stewed tomatoes, and rub together through a colander. Add salt, one half a cup of nicely steamed rice, and sufficient boiling water to make a soup of the proper consistency. Reheat and serve. Black Bean Soup. — Soak a pint of black beans over night in cold water. When ready to cook, put into two and one half quarts of fresh watnr, which should be boiling, and simmer until completely dissolved, adding more boiling water from time to time if needed. There should be about two quarts of all when done. Rub through a colander, add salt, and reheat. When hot, turn through a soup strainer, add two or more teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, and serve. Bran Stock. — For every quart of stock desired, boil a cup of good wheat bran in three pints of water for two or three hours or until reduced one third. This stock may be made the base of a variety of palatable and nutritious soups by flavoring with different vegetables and seasoning with salt and cream. An excellent soup may be prepared by flavoring the stock with celery, or by the addition of a quantity of strained stewed tomato sufficient to disguise the taste of the stock. It is also valuable in giving consistence to soups, in the preparation of some of which it may be advantageously used in place of other liquid. SOUPS. 277 Combination Sonp> — This soup is prepared from material already cooked and requires two cups of cracked wheat, one and one half cups of Lima beans, one half cup of black beans, and one cup of stewed tomato. Rub the material together through a colander, adding, if needed, a little hot water to facilitate the sifting. Add boiling water to thin to the proper consistency, season with salt and serve. Combination Soup No. 2.— Take three and one half cups of mashed (Scotch) peas, one cup each of cooked rice, oatmeal, and hominy, and two cups of stewed tomato. Rub the material through a colander, add boiling water to thin to the proper consistency, season with salt, reheat, and add, just before serving, two cups of cooked macaroni. Dried Pea Soap. — Use the green Scotch peas. Look over carefully a pint of the peas, and put to cook in a quart of water. Cook very slowly, adding a little water if needed, for several hours, until perfectly tender. Rub through a colander to remove the skins. Add to this pulp two cups of strained stewed tomato, salt to season, and enough water to make of the proper consistency. Reheat and serve. If the flavor is liked, a few pieces of celery or slices of onion may be put in just before reheating and removed before serving. Kornlet and Tomato Sonp. — Put together equal quantities of kornlet and strained stewed tomato, season with salt and heat to boiling ; add for each quart one fourth to one half cup of hot water, thicken with a table- spoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little water and serve. Cooked corn rubbed through a colander may also be used for this soup. Lentil and Corn Soup. — To one quart of bran stock add equal parts of cooked and sifted lentils and com pulp of a quantity to make the soup of proper consistency. Season with salt and serve. Miss B.'s Irish Corn Soup. — Cook one pint of sliced potato until tender. Rub through a colander, and add one pint of corn pulp obtained by rubbing canned or freshly cooked green corn through a colander. Season with salt, add water to make of the proper consistency, reheat, and serve. Mrs. H.'s Sago Fruit Soup.— Soak one half cup of sago for one hour in a cup of cold water. Add a quart of water, and cook in a double boiler until transparent. In the meantime cook together one cup of sweet Cali- fornia prunes and one half cup of raisins in a small quantity of water. When the sago is transparent, add the fruit and juice to it, together with one half cup of currant or some other tart fruit juice, and one half cup of sugar. The quantities given are sufficient for three pints of soup. Serve hot with croutons. Split Pea Soup.— For each quart of soup desired, simmer a cupful of split peas very slowly in three pints of boiling water for six hours, or until thoroughly dissolved. When done, rub through a colander, add salt, reheat, 278 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. and when boiling, stir into it two teaspoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Boil up until thickened, and serve. If preferred, the soup may be flavored with a little celery or onion. STriss Lentil Soup. — Cook a pint of brown lentils in a small quantity of boiling water. Add to the lentils when about half done, one medium sized onion cut in halves or quarters. When the lentils are tender, remove the onion with a fork, and rub the lentils through a colander. Add sufiicient boiling water to make three pints in all. Season with salt, reheat to boil- ing, and thicken the whole with four tablespoonfuls of browned flour, rubbed to a cream in a little cold water. Tomato and Macaroni Sonp. — Break a half dozen sticks of macaroni into small pieces, and drop into boiling water. Cook for an hour, or until per- fectly tender. Rub two quarts of stewed or canned tomatoes through a colander, to remove all seeds and fragments. When the macaroni is done, drain thoroughly, cut each piece into tiny rings, and add it to the strained tomatoes. Season with salt, and boil for a few minutes. If the tomato is quite thin, the soup should be slightly thickened with a little flour before adding the macaroni. Vegetable Soup. — Prepare a quart of bran stock as previously directed. Heat to boiling, and add to it one teaspoonful of grated carrot, a slice of onion, and a half cup of tomato. Cook together in a double boiler for half an hour. Remove the slice of onion, and add salt and a half cup of turnip previously cooked and cut in small dice. Vegetable Pea Soup. — Cook one pint of split peas until dissolved. When nearly done, put to cooking one and one half pints of sliced potato and one medium- sized onion, sliced thin. When tender, rub all through a colander, add water to make of the consistency of thin cream, and salt to taste. Reheat and serve. Soups with Milk and Cream. Asparagus Soup. — Wash two bunches of fresh asparagus carefully, and cut into small pieces. Put to cook in a quart of boiling water, and simmer gently till perfectly tender, when there should remain about a pint of the liquor. Turn into a colander, and rub all through except the hard portion. To a pint of asparagus mixture add salt and one cup of thin cream and a pint of milk ; boil up for a few minutes, and serve. Bean and Com Sonp. — Cold boiled or stewed corn and cold baked beans form the basis of this soup. Take one pint of each, rub through a colander, add a slice of onion, three cups of boiling water or milk, and boil for ten minutes. Turn through the colander a second time to remove SOUPS. 279 the onion and any lumps or skins which may remain. Season with salt and a half cup of cream. If preferred, the onion may be omitted. Bean and Hominy Sonp. — Soak separately in cold water over night a cupful each of dry beans and hominy. In the morning, boil them together till both are perfectly tender and broken to pieces. Rub through a col- ander, and add sufficient milk to make three pints. Season with salt, and stir in a cup of whipped cream just before serving. Cold beans and hominy may be utilized for this soup. Bean and Potato Sonp. — Soak a half pint of dry white beans over night ; in the morning drain and put to cook in boiling water. When tender, rub through a colander. Prepare sliced potato sufficient to make one quart, cook in as small a quantity of water as possible, rub through a colander, and add to the beans. Add milk or water sufficient to make two quarts, and as much prepared thyme as can be taken on the point of a penknife, with salt to season. Boil for a few minutes, add a teacup of thin cream, and serve. Brown Sonp. — Simmer together one quart of sliced potatoes and one third as much of the thin brown shavings (not thicker than a silver dime) from the top of a loaf of whole-wheat bread, in one quart of water. The crust must not be burned or blackened, and must not include any of the soft portion of the loaf. When the potatoes are tender, mash all through a colander. Flavor with a cup of strained, stewed tomatoes, a little salt, and return to the fire ; when hot, add a half cup of cream, and boiling water to make the soup of proper consistency, and serve at once. If care has been taken to prepare the crust as directed, this soup will have a brown color and a fine, pungent flavor exceedingly pleasant to the taste. Canned Green Pea Sonp. — Rub a can of green peas through a colander to remove the skins. Add a pint of milk and heat to boiling. If too thin, thicken with a little flour rubbed smooth in a very little cold milk. Season with salt and a half cup of cream. A small teaspoonful of white sugar may be added if desired. Green peas, instead of canned, may be used when procurable. When they have become a little too hard to serve alone, they can be used for soup, if thoroughly cooked. Canned Com Sonp. — Turn the contents of a can of sweet corn into a graniteware pan, and mash thoroughly with a potato-masher until every / kernel is broken. Then rub through a colander. To the pulp thus obtained, add sufficient rich milk to make two quarts in all (about three pints). Add salt if desired, heat to boiling, and thicken with a little flour braided in milk. Serve hot. Carrot Sonp. — For a quart of soup, slice one large carrot and boil in a small quantity of water for two hours or longer, then rub it through a 28o SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. colander, add a quart of rich milk, and salt to season. Reheat, and when boiling, thicken with two teaspoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Celery Sonp. — Chop quite fine enough fresh, crisp celery to make a pint, and cook it until tender in a very little boiling water. When done, heat three cupfuls of rich milk, part cream if it can be afforded, to boiling, add the celery, salt to season, and thicken the whole with a tablespoon- ful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk ; or add to the milk before heating a cupful of mashed potato, turn through a colander to remove lumps, reheat, add salt and the celery, and serve. Celery Sonp No. 2.— Cook in a double boiler a cupful of cracked wheat in three pints of water for three or four hours. Rub the wheat through a colander, add a cup of rich milk, and if needed, a little boiling water, and a small head of celery cut in finger lengths. Boil all together for twenty minutes, until well flavored, remove the celery, add salt, and serve with or without the hard-boiled yolk of an egg in each soup plate. Chestnut Soup. — Shell and blanch a pint of Italian chestnuts, as di- rected on page 215, and cook in boiling milk until tender. Rub the nuts through a colander, add salt and sufficient milk and cream to make a soup of the proper consistenc}', reheat and serve. Combination Sonp. — One half cup of cold mashed potato, one cup each of cooked pearl wheat, barley, and dried peas. Rub through a colander, add boiling milk to thin to the proper consistency, season with salt and a half cup of cream. Another. — Take three cups of cooked oatmeal, two of mashed white beans, and one of stewed tomato. Rub the ingredients through a colan- der, add boiling milk to thin to the proper consistency, season with salt and a little cream. Cream Pea Soup. — Soak three fourths of a pint of dried Scotch peas over night in a quart of water. In the morning put to cook in boiling water, cover closely and let them simmer gently four or five hours, or until the peas are very tender and well disintegrated ; then rub through a colander to remove the skins. Just before the peas are done, prepare pota- toes enough to make a pint and a half, after being cut in thin slices. Cook the potatoes until tender in a small amount of water, and rub them through a colander. Add the potatoes thus prepared to the sifted peas, and milk enough to make three and one half pints in all (about one quart). Return to the fire, and add a small head of celery cut in finger lengths, and let the whole simmer together ten or fifteen minutes, until flavored. Remove the celery with a fork, add salt and a cup of thin cream. This should make about two quarts of soup. If preferred, the peas may be cooked without soaking. It will, however, require a little longer time. SOUPS. 281 Cream Barley Soup. — Wash a cup of pearl barley, drain, and simmer slowly in two quarts of water for four or five hours, adding boiling water from time to time as needed. When the barley is tender, strain off the liquor, of which there should be about three pints ; add to it a portion of the cooked barley grains, salt, and a cup of whipped cream, and serve. If preferred, the beaten yolk of an egg may be used instead of cream. Green Corn Soup. — Take six well-filled ears of tender green corn. Run a sharp knife down the rows and split each grain ; then with the back of a knife, scraping from the large to the small end of the ear, press out the pulp, leaving the hulls on the cob. Break the cobs if long, put them in cold water sufficient to cover, and boil half an hour. Strain off the water, of which there should be at least one pint. Put the corn water on again, and when boiling add the corn pulp, and cook fifteen minutes, or until the raw taste is destroyed. Rub through a rather coarse colander, add salt and a pint of hot unskimmed milk ; if too thin, thicken with a little corn- starch or flour, boil up, and serve. If preferred, a teaspoonful of sugar may be added to the soup. A small quantity of cooked macaroni, cut in rings, makes a very pretty and palatable addition to the soup. The soup is also excellent flavored with celery. Green Pea Soup. — Gently simmer two quarts of shelled peas in suffi- cient water to cook, leaving almost no juice when tender. Rub through a colander, moistening if necessary with a little cold milk. Add to the sifted peas an equal quantity of rich milk and a small onion cut in halves. Boil all together five or ten minutes until the soup is delicately flavored, then remove the onion with a skimmer ; add salt if desired, and serve. If preferred, a half cup of thin cream may be added just before serving. Celery may be used in place of the onion, or both may be omitted. Green Bean Soup. — Prepare a quart of fresh string beans by pulling off ends and strings and breaking into small pieces. Boil in a small quantity of water. If the beans are fresh and young, three pints will be sufficient ; if wilted or quite old, more will be needed, as they will require longer cooking. There should be about a teacupful and a half of liquid left when the beans are perfectly tender and boiled in pieces. Rub through a colander, return to the kettle, and for each cup of the bean pulp add salt, a cup and a half of unskimmed milk ; boil together for a few minutes, thicken with a little flour, and serve. The quart of beans should be sufficient for three pints of soup. Eomlet Soup. — Kornlet or canned green corn pulp, may be made into a most appetizing soup in a few minutes by adding to a pint of kornlet an equal quantity of rich milk, heating to boiling, and thickening it with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. 282 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Lentil Sonp. — Simmer a pint of lentils in water until tender. If de- sired to have the soup less dark in color and less strong in flavor, the len- tils may be first parboiled for a half hour, and then drained and put into fresh boiling water. Much valuable nutriment is thus lost, however. When perfectly tender, mash through a colander to remove all skins ; add salt and a cup of thin cream, and if too thick, sufficient boiling milk or water to thin to the proper consistency, heat again to boiling, and serve. If preferred, an additional quantity of liquid may be added and the soup slightly thickened with browned flour. Lentil and Parsnip Sonp. — Cook together one pint of lentils and one half a small parsnip, sliced, until tender in a small quantity of boiling water. When done, rub through a colander, and add boiling water to make a soup of the proper consistency. Season with salt and if desired a little cream. Lima Bean Soup. — Simmer a pint of Lima beans gently in just suffi- cient water to cook and not burn, until they have fallen to pieces. Add more boiling water as needed. When done, rub the beans through a col- ander. Add rich milk or water to make of the proper consistency, and salt to season ; reheat and serve. White beans may be used in place of Lima beans, but they require more prolonged cooking. A heaping tablespoonful of pearl tapioca or sago previously soaked in cold water, may be added to the soup when it is reheated, if liked, and the whole cooked until the sago is transparent. Macaroni Soup. — Heat a quart of milk, to which has been added a tablespoonful of finely grated bread crust (the brown part only, from the top of the loaf) and a slice of onion to flavor, in a double boiler. When the milk is well flavored, remove the onion, turn through a col- ander, add salt, and thicken with two teaspoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Lastly add one cupful of cooked maca- roni, and serve. Oatmeal Sonp. — Put two heaping tablespoonfuls of oatmeal into a quart of boiling water, and cook in a double boiler for two hours or longer. Strain as for gruel, add salt if desired, and two or three stalks of celery broken into finger lengths, and cook again until the whole is well flavored with the celery, which may then be rernoved with a fork ; add a half cup of cream, and the soup is ready to serve. Cold oatmeal mush may be thinned with milk, reheated, strained, flavored, and made into soup the same as fresh material. A slice or two of onion may be used with the celery for flavoring the soup if desired, or a cup of strained stewed tomato may be added. Parsnip Sonp. — Take a quart of well scraped, thinly sliced parnips, one cup of bread crust shavings (prepared as for Brown Soup), one head SOUPS. 283 of celery, one small onion, and one pint of sliced potatoes. The parsnips used should be young and tender, so that they will cook in about the same length of time as the other vegetables. Use only sufficient water to cook them. When done, rub through a colander and add salt and sufficient rich milk, part cream if desired, to make of the proper consistency. Reheat and serve. Parsnip Soup No. 2. — Wash, pare, and slice equal quantities of par- snips and potatoes. Cook, closely covered, in a small quantity of water until soft. If the parsnips are not young and tender, they must be put to cook first, and the potatoes added when they are half done. Mash through a colander. Add salt, and milk to make of the proper consistency, season with cream, reheat and serve. Pea and Tomato Sonp. — Soak one pint of Scotch peas over night. When ready to cook, put into a quart of boiling water and simmer slowly until quite dry and well disintegrated. Rub through a colander to remove the skins. Add a pint of hot water, one cup of mashed potato, two cups of strained stewed tomato, and one cup of twelve-hour cream. Turn into a double boiler and cook together for a half hour or longer ; turn a second time through a colander or soup strainer and serve. The pro- portions given are quite sufficient for two quarts of soup. There may need to be some variation in the quantity of tomato to be used, depend- ing upon its thickness. If very thin, a larger quantity and less water will be needed. The soup should be a rich reddish brown in color when done. The peas may be cooked without being lirst soaked, if preferred. Plain Rice Sonp. — Wash and pick over four tablespoonfuls of rice, put it in an earthen dish with a quart of water, and place in a moderate oven. When the water is all absorbed, add a quart of rich milk, and salt if desired ; turn into a granite kettle and boil ten minutes, or till the rice is done. Add a half cup of sweet cream, and serve. A slice of onion or stalk of celery can be boiled with the soup after putting in the kettle, and removed before serving, if desired to flavor. Potato and Rice Soup. — Cook a quart of sliced potatoes in as little water as possible. When done, rub through a colander. Add salt, a quart of rich milk, and reheat. If desired, season with a slice of onion, a stalk of celery, or a little parsley. Just before serving, add a half cup of cream and a cup and a half of well-cooked rice with unbroken grains. Stir gently and serve. Cooked vermicelli may be used in place of the rice. Potato Sonp. — For each quart of soup required, cook a pint of sliced potatoes in sufficient water to cover them. When tender, rub through a colander. Return to the fire, and add enough rich, sweet milk, part cream if it can be afforded to make a quart in all, and a little salt. Let the 284 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. soup come td a boil, and add a teaspoonful of flour or cornstarch, rubbed to a paste with a little water ; boil a few minutes, and serve. A cup and a half of cold mashed potato or a pint of sliced baked potato can be used instead of fresh material ; in which case add the milk and heat before rubbing through the colander. A slice of onion or a stalk of celery may be simmered in the soup for a few minutes to flavor it, and then removed with a skimmer or spoon. A good mixed potato soup is made by using one third sweet and two thirds Irish potatoes, in the same manner as above. Sago and Potato Soup. — Prepare the soup as directed for Potato Soup, from fresh or cold mashed potato, using a little larger quantity of milk or cream, as the sago adds thickness to the soup. When seasoned and ready to reheat, turn a second time through the colander, and add for each quart of soup, one heaping tablespoonful of sago which has been soaked for twenty minutes in just enough water to cover. Boil together five or ten minutes, or until the sago is transparent, and serve. Scotch Broth. — Soak over night two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley and one of coarse oatmeal, in water sufficient to cover them. In the morning, put the grains, together with the water in which they were soaked, into two quarts of water and simmer for several hours, adding boiling water as needed. About an hour before the soup is required, add a turnip cut into small dice, a grated carrot, and one half cup of fine pieces of the brown portion of the crust of a loaf of whole-wheat bread. Rub all through a colander, and add salt, a cup of milk, and a half cup of thin cream. This should make about three pints of soup. Sweet Potato Soup. — To a pint of cold mashed sweet potato add a pint and a half of strained stewed tomato, rub together through a colander, add salt to season, and half a cup of cream. Reheat and serve. Swiss Potato Soup. — Pare and cut up into small pieces, enough white turnips to fill a pint cup, and cook in a small quantity of water. When tender, add three pints of sliced potatoes, and let them boil together until of the consistency of mush. Add hot water if it has boiled away so that there is not sufficient to cook the potatoes. When done, drain, rub through a colander, add a pint and a half of milk and a cup of thin cream, salt if desired, and if too thick, a little more milk or a sufficient quantity of hot water to make it of the proper consistency. This should be sufficient for two and a half quarts of soup. Tomato Cream Soup. — Heat two quarts of strained, stewed tomatoes to boiling ; add four tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Let the tomatoes boil until thickened, stirring constantly that no lumps form ; add salt to season. Have ready two cups of hot rich milk or thin cream. Add the cream or milk hot, and let all boil together for a minute or two, then serve. SOUPS. 285 Tomato and Okra Sonp. — Take one quart of okra thinly sliced, and two quarts of sliced tomatoes. Simmer gently from one to two hours. Rub through a colander, heat again to boiling, season with salt and cream if desired, and serve. Canned okra and tomatoes need only to be rubbed through a colander, scalded and seasoned, to make a most excellent soup. If preferred, one or two potatoes may be sliced and cooked, rubbed through a colan- der, and added. Tomato Sonp mth Vermicelli. — Cook a cupful of broken vermicelli in a pint of boiling salted water for ten minutes. Have boiling two quarts of strained, stewed tomatoes, to which add the vermicelli. If preferred, the tomato may be thickened slightly with a little cornstarch rubbed smooth in cold water before adding the vermicelli. Salt to taste, and just before serving turn in a cup of hot, thin cream. Let all boil up for a moment, then serve at once. Vegetable Oyster Sonp. — Scrape all the outer covering and small root- lets from vegetable oysters, and lay them in a pan of cold water to pre- vent discoloration. The scraping can be done much easier if the roots are allowed first to stand in cold water for an hour or so. Slice rather thin, enough to make one quart, and put to cook in a quart of water. Let them boil slowly until very tender. Add a pint of milk, a cup of thin cream, salt, and when boiling, a tablespoonful or two of flour, rubbed to a cream with a little milk. Let the soup boil a few minutes until thick- ened, and serve. Vegetable Sonp. — Simmer together slowly for three or four hours, in five quarts of water, a quart of split peas, a slice of carrot, a slice of white turnip, one cup of canned tomatoes, and two stalks of celery cut into small bits. When done, rub through a colander, add milk to make of proper consistency, reheat, season with salt and cream, and serve. Vegetable Sonp No. 2. — Prepare and slice a pint of vegetable oysters and a pint and a half of potatoes. Put the oysters to cook first, in suffi- cient water to cook both. When nearly done, add the potatoes and cook all till tender. Rub through a colander, or if preferred, remove the pieces of oysters, and rub the potato only through the colander, together with the water in which the oysters were cooked, as that will contain all the flavor. Return to the fire, and add salt, a pint of strained, stewed toma- toes, and when boiling, the sliced oysters if desired, a cup of thin cream and a cup of milk, both previously heated ; serve at once. Vegetable Sonp No. S. — Soak a cupful of white beans over night in cold water. When ready to cook, put into fresh boiling water and simmer until tender. When nearly done, add three large potatoes sliced, two or three slices of white turnip, and one large parsnip cut in slices. When 286 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. done, rub through a colander, add milk or water to make of proper con- sistency, season with salt and cream, reheat, and serve. This quantity of material is sufficient for two quarts of soup. Velret Sonp. — Pour three pints of hot potato soup, seasoned to taste, slowly over the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, stirring briskly to mix the egg perfectly with the soup. It must not be reheated after adding the egg. Plain rice or barley soup may be used in place of potato soup, if preferred. Vermicelli Sonp. — Cook a cupful of sliced vegetable oysters, a stalk or two of celery, two slices of onion, a parsnip, and half a carrot in water just sufficient to cover well. Meanwhile put a cupful of vermicelli in a quart of milk and cook in a double boiler until tender. When the vegetables are done, strain off the broth and add it to the vermicelli when cooked. Season with salt and a cup of cream. Beat two eggs light and turn the boiling soup on the eggs, stirring briskly that they may not curdle. Reheat if not thickened, and serve. White Celery Soup. — Cut two heads of celery into finger lengths, and simmer in a quart of milk for half an hour. Remove the pieces of celery with a skimmer. Thicken the soup with a tablespoonful of cornstarch braided with a little milk, add salt if desired, and a teacup of whipped cream. TABLE TOPICS. Soup rejoices the stomach, and disposes it to receive and digest other food. — Brillat Savarin. To work the head, temperance must be carried into the diet. — Beecher. To fare well implies the partaking of such food as does not disagree with body or mind. Hence only those fare well who live temperately. — Socrates. The aliments to which the cook's art gives a liquid or semi-liquid form, are in general more digestible. — Dictionaire de Medicine. The eating of much flesh fills us with a multitude of evil diseases and multitudes of evil desires. — Porphyrises, 2jj A. D. No flocks that range the valley free To slaughter I condemn ; Taught by the Power that pities me, I learn to pity them. But from the mountain's grassy side A guiltless feast I bring ; A scrip with herbs and fruits supplied, And water from the spring. — Goldsmith. GOOD breaKiast is the best capital upon which people |f who have real work to do in the world can begin the B day. If the food is well selected and well cooked, it l^s^ furnishes both cheer and strength for their daily tasks. Poor food, or good food poorly prepared, taxes the digestive powers more than is due, and consequently robs brain and nerves of vigor. Good food is not rich food, in the common acceptation of the term ; it is such food as furnishes the requi- site nutriment with the least fatigue to the digestive powers. It is of the best material, prepared in the best manner, and with pleasant variety, though it may be very simple. " What to get for breakfast " is one of the most puzzling problems which the majority of housewives have to solve. The usually limited time for its preparation requires that it be something easily and quickly prepared ; and health de- mands that the bill of fare be of such articles as require but minimum time for digestion, that the stomach may have chance for rest after the process of digestion is complete, before the dinner hour. The custom of using fried potatoes or mushes, salted fish or meats, and other foods almost im- [287] 288 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. possible of digestion, for breakfast dishes, is most pernicious. These foods set completely at variance all laws of breakfast hygiene. They are very difficult of digestion, and the thirst- provoking quality of salted foods makes them an important auxiliary to the acquirement of a love of intoxicating drinks. We feel very sure that, as a prominent temperance writer says, " It very often happens that women who send out their loved ones with an agony of prayer that they may be kept from drink for the day, also send them with a breakfast that will make them almost frantic with thirst before they get to the first saloon." The foods composing the breakfast menu should be simple in character, well and delicately cooked, and neatly served. Fruits and grains and articles made from them offer the requi- sites for the ideal breakfast. These afford ample provision for variety, are easily made ready, and easily digested, while at the same time furnishing excellent nutriment in ample quan- tity and of the very best quality. Nearly all vegetables, and compound dishes, more difficult of digestion, are better reserved for the dinner bill of fare. No vegetable except the potato is especially serviceable as a breakfast food, and it is much more readily digested when baked than when prepared in any other manner. Stewing requires less time for preparation, but about one hour longer for digestion. As an introduction to the morning meal, fresh fruits are most desirable, particularly the juicy varieties, as oranges, grape fruit, melons, grapes, and peaches, some one of which are obtainable nearly the entire year. Other fruits ; as apples, bananas, pears, etc., though less suitable, may be used for the same purpose. They are, however, best accompanied with wafers or some hard food, to insure their thorough mastication. For the second course, some of the various cereals well cooked, or cereal products as granola, granose or toasted corn flakes served with fruit, nut cream, or cream together with one or more unfermented breads (recipes for which have been given in a previous chapter) , cooked fruits, and some simple rel- ishes, are quite sufficient for a healthful and palatable breakfast. BREAKFAST DISHES. 289 If, however, a more extensive bill of fare is desired, numer- ous delicious and appetizing toasts may be prepared according to the recipes given in this chapter, and which, because of their simple character and the facility with which they can be pre- pared, are particularly suitable as breakfast dishes. The foun- dation of all these toasts is zwieback, or twice-baked bread, prepared from good whole-wheat or Graham fermented bread cut in uniform slices not more than a half inch thick, each slice being divided in halves, placed on tins, or what is better, the perforated sheets recommended for baking rolls, and baked or toasted in a slow oven for a half hour or longer, until it is browned evenly throughout the entire slice. The zwieback may be prepared in considerable quantity and kept on hand in readiness for use. It will keep for any length of time if stored in a dry place. Stale bread is the best for making zwieback, but it should be good, light bread ; that which is sour, heavy, and not fit to eat untoasted, should never be used. Care must be taken also not to scorch the slices, as once scorched, it is spoiled. Prop- erly made, it is equally crisp throughout, and possesses a delicious, nutty flavor. Its preparation affords an excellent opportunity for using the left-over slices of bread, and it may be made when the oven has been heated for other purposes, as after the baking of bread, or even during the ordinary cooking, with little or no additional heat. If one possesses an Aladdin oven, it can be prepared to perfection. Zwieback may also be purchased in bulk, all ready for use, at twelve cents a pound, from the Sanitarium Food Co., Battle Creek, Mich., and it is serviceable in so many ways that it should form a staple article of food in every household. For the preparation of toasts, the zwieback must be first softened with some hot liquid, thin cream or nut cream. Heat the cream (two thirds of a pint of cream will be sufficient for six half slices) nearly to boiling in some rather shallow dish. Put the slices, two or three at a time, in it, dipping the cream over them and turning so that both sides will become equally '9 290 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. softened. Keep the cream hot, and let the slices remain until softened just enough so that the center can be pierced with a fork, but not until at all mushy or broken. With two forks or a fork and a spoon, remove each slice from the hot cream, draining as thoroughly as possible, and pack in a heated dish, and repeat the process until as much zwieback has been softened as desired. Cover the dish, and keep hot until ready to serve. Special care should be taken to drain the slices as thoroughly as possible, that none of them be wet and mushy. It is better to remove them from the cream when a little hard than to allow them to become too soft, as they will soften somewhat by standing, after being packed in the dish. Prepare the sauce for the toast at the same time or before softening the slices, and pour into a pitcher for serving. Serve the slices in individual dishes, turning a small quantity of the hot sauce over each as served. RECIPES. Apple Toast. — Fresh, nicely flavored apples stewed in a small quan- tity of water, rubbed through a colander, sweetened, then cooked in a granite-ware dish in a slow oven until quite dry, make a nice dressing for toast. Baked sweet or sour apples rubbed through a colander to re- move cores and skins, are also excellent. Soften slices of zwieback iri hot cream, and serve with a spoonful or two on each slice. If desired, the apple may be flavored with a little pineapple or lemon, or mixed with grape, cranberry, or apricot, thus making a number of different toasts. Apricot Toast. — Stew some nice dried apricots as directed on page 191. When done, rub through a fine colander to remove all skins and to render them homogeneous. Add sugar to sweeten, and serve as a dressing on slices of zwieback which have been previously softened in hot cream. One half or two thirds fresh or dried apples may be used with the apricots, if preferred. Asparagrns Toast. — Prepare asparagus as directed on page 255. When tender, drain off the liquor and season it with a little cream, and salt if desired. Moisten nicely browned zwieback in the liquor and lay in 'a hot dish ; unbind the asparagus, heap it upon the toast, and serve. Banana Toast. — Peel and press some nice bananas through a colan- der. This may be very easily done with a potato masher, or if preferred a vegetable press may be used for the purpose. Moisten slices of zwie- BREAKFAST DISHES. 29I back with hot cream and serve with a large spoonful of the banana pulp on each slice. Fresh peaches may be prepared and used on the toast in the same way. Berry Toast. — Canned strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries may be made into an excellent dressing for toast. Turn a can of well-kept berries into a colander over an earthen dish, to separate the juice from the berries. Place the juice in a porcelain ket- tle and heat to boiling. Thicken to the consistency of cream with corn- starch rubbed smooth in a little water ; a tablespoonful of flour to the pint of juice will be about the right proportion. Add the berries and boil up just sufficiently to cook the flour and heat the berries ; serve hot. If cream for moistening ■ the zwieback is not obtainable, a little juice may be reserved without thickening, and heated in another dish to moisten the toast ; or if preferred, the fruit may be heated and poured over the dry zwieback without being thickened, or it may be rubbed through a colander as for Apricot Toast. Berry Toast No. 2. — Take fresh red or black raspberries, blueberries, or strawberries, and mash well with a spoon. Add sugar to sweeten, and serve as a dressing on slices of zwieback previously moistened with hot cream. Celery Toast. — Cut the crisp white portion of celery into inch pieces, simmer twenty minutes or half an hour, or until tender, in a very little water; add salt and a cup of rich milk. Heat to boiling, and thicken with a little flour rubbed smooth in a small quantity of milk — a teaspoon- ful of flour to the pint of liquid. Serve hot, poured over slices of zwie- back previously moistened with cream or hot water. Cream Toast. — For this use. good Graham or whole-wheat zwieback. Have a pint of thin sweet cream scalding hot, salt it a little if desired, and moisten the zwieback in it as previously directed packing it imme- diately into a hot dish ; cover tightly so that the toast may steam, and serve. The slices should be thoroughly moistened, but not soft and mushy nor swimming in cream ; indeed, it is better if a little of the crispness still remains. Cream Toast with Poached Egg. — Prepare the cream toast as pre- viously directed, and serve hot with a well-poached egg on each slice. Cherry Toast. — Take a quart of ripe cherries ; stem, wash, and stew (if preferred the stones may be removed) until tender but not broken ; add sugar to sweeten, and pour over slices of well-browned dry toast or zwie- back. Serve cold. Grayy Toast.— Heat a quart and a cupful of rich milk to boiling, add salt, and stir into it three scant tablespoonfuls of flour which has been rubbed to a smooth paste in a little cold milk. This quantity will be 292 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. sufficient for about a dozen slices of toast. Moisten slices of zwieback with hot water and pack in a heated dish. When serving, pour a quan- tity of the cream sauce over each slice. Dry Toast with Hot Cream. — Nicely prepared zwieback served in hot saucers with hot cream poured over each slice at the table, makes a most delicious breakfast dish. Grape Toast. — Stem well-ripened grapes, wash well, and scald with- out water in a double boiler until broken ; rub through a colander to remove seeds and skins, and when cool, sweeten to taste. If the toast is desired for breakfast, the grapes should be prepared the day previous. Soften the toast in hot cream, as previously directed, and pack in a tureen. Heat the prepared grapes and serve, pouring a small quantity over each slice of toast. Canned grapes may be used instead of fresh ones, if desired. Lentil Toast. — Lentils stewed as directed for Lentil Gravy on page 226, served as a dressing on slices of zwieback moistened with hot cream or water, makes a very palatable toast. Browned flour may be used to thicken the dressing if preferred. Prune Toast. — Cook prunes as directed on page 191, allowing them to simmer very slowly for a long time. When done, rub through a colander, and if quite thin, they should be stewed again for a time, until they are about the consistency of marmalade. Moisten slices of zwieback with hot cream, and serve with a spoonful or two of the prune dressing on each. One third dried apple may be used with the prune, if preferred. Peach Toast. — Stew nice fresh peaches in a small quantity of water ; when tender, rub through a colander, and if quite juicy, place on the back of the range where they will cook very slowly until nearly all the water has evaporated, and the peach is of the consistency of marmalade. Add sugar to sweeten, and serve the same as prunes, on slices of zwieback previously moistened with hot cream. Canned peaches may be drained from their juice and prepared in the same manner. Dried or evaporated peaches may also be used. Toast with dried-peach dressing will be more delicate in flavor if one third dried apples be used with the peaches. Snowflake Toast. — Heat to boiling a quart of milk to which a half cup of cream and a little salt have been added. Thicken with a tablespoon- ful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Have ready the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; and when the sauce is well cooked, turn a cupful of it on the beaten egg, stirring well meanwhile so that it will form a light, frothy mixture, to which add the remainder of the sauce. If the sauce is not sufficiently hot to coagulate the albumen, it may be heated again almost to the boiling point, but should not be allowed to boil. The sauce should be of a light, frothy consistency throughout. Serve as dressing on nicely moistened slices of zwieback. BREAKFAST DISHES. 293 Tomato Toast. — Moisten slices of zwieback in hot cream, and serve with a dressing prepared by heating a pint of strained stewed tomato to boiling, and thickening with a tablespoonful of corn starch or flour rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Season with salt and a half cupful of hot cream. The cream may be omitted, if preferred. Tegfetable Oyster Toast. — Cook a quart of cleaned, sliced vegetable oysters in a quart of water until very tender ; add a pint and a half of rich milk, salt to taste, and thicken the whole with two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed to a smooth paste with a little milk. Let it boil for a few minutes, and serve as a dressing on slices of well-browned toast previ- ously moistened with hot water or cream. MISCELLANEOUS BREAKFAST D/SHES. Brewis. — Heat a pint of rich milk to boiling, remove from the fire, and beat into it thoroughly and quickly a cup of very fine stale rye or Graham bread crumbs. Serve at once with cream. Blackberry Mush. — Rub a pint of canned or freshly stewed and sweet- ened blackberries, having considerable juice, through a fine colander or sieve to remove the seeds. Add water to make a pint and a half cupful in all, heat to boiling, and sprinkle into it a cupful of sifted Graham flour, or sufficient to make a mush of the desired thickness. Cook as directed for Graham Porridge. Serve hot with cream. Dry Granola. — This prepared food, made from wheat, com, and oats, and obtainable from the Sanitarium Food Co., Battle Creek, Mich., forms an excellent breakfast dish eaten with cold or hot milk, cream, or nut cream or fruit dressing. Toasted Corn Flakes Granuto and Granose Flakes served in a similar way and obtainable from the same firm, are each delicious and suitable foods for the morning meal. Frumenty. — Wash well a pint of best wheat, and soak for twenty-four hours in water just sufficient to cover. Put the soaked wheat in a covered earthen baking pot or jar, cover well with water, and let it cook in a very slow oven for twelve hours. This may be done the day before it is wanted, or if one has a coal range in which a fire may be kept all night, or an Aladdin oven, the grain may be started in the evening and cooked at night. When desired for use, put in a saucepan with three pints of milk, a cupful of well-washed Zante currants, and one cup of seeded raisins. Boil together for a few minutes, thicken with four tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, and serve. Macaroni with Raisins. — Break macaroni into inch lengths sufficient to fill a half-pint cup. Heat four cups of milk, and when actively boil- ing, put in the macaroni and cook until tender. Pour boiling water over a half cup of raisins, and let them stand until swelled. Ten or fifteen 294 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. minutes before the macaroni is done, add the raisins. Serve hot with or without the addition of cream. Macaroni cooked in the various ways as directed in the chapter on Grains, is also suitable for breakfast dishes. Macaroni Trith Eomlet. — Boil one and one half cups of macaroni, bro- ken into inch lengths, in salted water until tender. Rub one can of sweet corn through a colander, after crushing each kernel with a potato masher (or use the prepared kornlet), and add one pint of rich milk. Heat to boil- ing, and thicken with one tablespoonful of flour. Mix with the cooked macaroni, add one and one fourth teaspoonfuls of salt, turn into a pudding dish, and brown in a hot oven. Peach Mush. — Prepare the same as Blackberry Mush using very thin peach sauce made smooth by rubbing through a colander. Freshly stewed or canned peaches or nicely cooked dried peaches are suitable for this purpose. Apples and grapes may be likewise used for a break- fast mush. Boasted Eice. — The roasted rice prepared by the Battle Creek Sanita- rium Food Co. makes an excellent and easily prepared breakfast dish. Put two cups of water in the inner vessel of a double boiler, and when actively boiling, introduce one cup of roasted rice. Place in the outer boiler, and steam until tender only — twenty to thirty minutes. Serve with almond cream, lentil gravy, tomato sauce, cream, nut gravy, or fruit sauce. Baked Apples with Gluten Mnsh.*— Pare and remove the cores from tart apples; fill the cavities with sugar and add a few spoonfuls of water ; bake until tender, turning to keep them whole; serve hot after filling the centers with well-cooked gluten mush. Oregon Toast.* — Take one pint of canned huckleberries; reheat, and thicken with a half teaspoonful of cornstarch ; let it boil up and serve at once on crisp breakfast toast with a tablespoonful of pecan nuts on top. Any fruit may be used. Pecan meats are valuable for both fat and proteid. FRUIT WAFERS AND CREAM STICKS AN IDEAI, IIREAKFAST A FRCIT AXn GRAIN ERI'IAKFAST Table topics. The lightest breakfast is the best. — Oswald. A New Name for Breakfast.— "Turn, mamma, leth's go down to tapper," said a little toddler to her mother, one morning, recently. "Why, we don't have supper in the morning," replied the mother. "Den leth's do down to dinner, ' urged the little one. " But we don't have dinner in the morning," corrected the mother- "Well, den, leth's do down any way," pleaded the child. " But try and think what meal we have in the morning," urged mamma. "I know," said the toddler, brightening up. " What meal do we have in the morning ? " " Oatmeal. Turn on ; leth's do."— Sel. Seneca, writing to a friend of his frugal fare which he declares does not cost a sixpence a day, says : — " Eo you ask if that can supply due nourishment ? Yes ; and pleasure too. Not indeed, that fleeting and superficial pleasure which needs to be perpetually recruited, but a solid and substantial one. Bread and polenta certainly is not luxurious feeding, but it is no little advantage to be able to receive pleasure from a simple diet of which no change of fortune can deprive one." Breakfast ! Come to breakfast 1 Little ones and all, — How their merry footsteps Patter at the call ! Break the bread ; pour freely Milk that cream-like flows ; A blessing on their appetites And on their lips of rose. Dinner may be pleasant, So may the social tea. But yet, methinks the breakfast Is best of all the three. With its greeting smile of welcome. Its holy voice of prayer, It forgeth heavenly armor To foil the hosts of care. — Mrs. Sigourney. Health is not quoted in the markets because it is without price. — Sel It is a mistake to think that the more a man eats, the fatter and stronger he will become. — Sel. [a95] fiUSTOM has so long established the usage of finishing the dinner with a dessert of some kind, that a ine7iu is considered quite incomplete without it ; and we shall „,„,, I devote the next few pages to articles which may be deemed appropriate and healthful desserts, not because we consider the dessert itself of paramount importance, for in- deed we do not think it essential to life or even to good living, but because we hope the hints and suggestions which our space permits, may aid the housewife in preparing more wholesome, inexpensive dishes in lieu of the indigestible articles almost universally used for this purpose. We see no objection to the use of a dessert, if the articles offered are wholesome, and are presented before an abundance has already been taken. As usually served, the dessert is but a "snare and delusion" to the digestive organs. Compounded of substances " rich," not in food elements, but in fats, sweets, and spices, and served after enough has already been eaten, it offers a great temptation to overeat ; while the elements of which it is largely composed, serve to hamper the digestive or- [296] — DESSERTS. 297 gans, to clog the liver, and to work mischief generally. At the same time it may be remarked that the . preparation of even wholesome desserts requires an outlay of time and strength better by far expended in some other manner. Desserts are quite unnecessary to a good, heathful, nutritious dietary. The simplest of all desserts are the various nuts and delicious fruits with which nature has so abundantly supplied us, at no greater cost than their harmful substitutes, and which require no ex- penditure of time or strength in their preparation. If, how- ever, other forms of dessert are desired, a large variety may be prepared in a simple manner, so as to be both pleasing and appetizing. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. In the preparation of desserts, as in that of all other foods it is essential that all material used shall be thoroughly good ol its kind. If bread is to be used, the crumbs should be dry and rather stale, but on no account use that which is sour or moldy, Some housekeepers imagine that if their bread happens to spoil and become sour, although it is hardly palatable enough for the table, it may be advantageously used to make puddings. It is indeed quite possible to combine sour bread with other ingre- dients so as to make a pudding agreeable to the palate ; but disguising sour bread by sweets and flavors by no means changes it into a wholesome food. It is better economy to throw sour bread away at once than to impose it upon the digestive organs at the risk of health and strength. Bread which has begun to show appearance of mold should never be used ; for mold is a poison, and very serious illness has resulted from the eating of puddings made from moldy bread. Eggs, to be used for desserts, should always be fresh and good. Cooks often imagine that an egg too stale to be eaten in any other way will do very well for use in cakes and pud- dings, because it can be disguised so as not to be apparent to the taste ; but stale eggs are unfit for food, either alone or in combination with other ingredients. Their use is often the occasion of serious disturbances of the digestive organs. Most 298 SCIENCE IN THfi KITCHEN. desserts in which eggs are used will be much lighter if the yolks and whites are beaten separately. If in winter, and eggs are scarce, fewer may be used, and two tablespoonfuls of dry snow for each omitted egg stirred in the last thing before baking. Milk, likewise, should always be sweet and fresh. If it is to be heated, use a double boiler, so that there will be no danger of scorching. If fresh milk is not available, the condensed milk found at the grocer's is an excellent substitute. Dissolve according to directions, and follow the recipe the same as with fresh milk, omitting one half or two thirds the given amount of sugar. If dried sweet fruits, raisins, or currants are to be used, look them over carefully, put them into a colander, and placing it in a pan of warm water, allow the currants to remain until plump. This will loosen the dirt which, while they are shriveled, sticks in the creases, and they may then be washed by dipping the colander in and out of clean water until they are free from sedi- ment ; rinse in two waters, then spread upon a cloth, and let them get perfectly dry before using. It is a good plan, after purchasing raisins and currants, to wash and dry a quantity, and store in glass cans ready for use. To facilitate the stoning of raisins, put them into a colander placed in a dish of warm water until plump ; then drain, when the seeds can be easily removed. For desserts which are to be molded, always wet the molds in cold water before pouring in the desserts. In the preparation of many of the desserts or for their dress- ing, almond cream may be substituted in the recipes given, for dairy milk and cream, if desired. Malted nuts may likewise serve a similar purpose, if preferred. SUGGESTIONS FOR FLAVORING. ETG. Cocoanut Flavor. — Cocoanut, freshly grated or desiccated, unless in extremely fine particles, is a very indigestible substance, and when its DESSERTS. 299 flavor is desired for custards, puddings, etc., it is always better to steep a few tablespoonfuls in a pint of milk for twenty minutes or a half hour, and strain out the particles. The milk should not be allowed to boil, as it will be likely to curdle. One tablespoonful of freshly grated cocoanut or two of the desiccated will give a very pleasant and delicate flavor ; and if a more intense flavor is desired, use a larger quantity. Orange and Lemon Flavor. — Orange or lemon flavor may be obtained by steeping a few strips of the yellow part of the rind of lemon or orange in milk for twenty minutes. Skim out the rind before using for desserts. Care should be taken to use only the yellow part, as the white will impart a bitter flavor. The grated rind may also be used for flavoring, but in grating the peel, one must be careful to grate very lightly, and thus use only the outer yellow portion, which contains the essential oil of the fruit. Grate evenly, turning and working around the lemon, using as small a surface of the grater as possible, in order to prevent waste. Generally, twice across the grater and back will be sufiicient for removing all the yellow skin from one portion of the lemon. A well-grated lemon should be of exactly the same shape as before, with no yellow skin remaining, and no deep scores into the white. Remove the yellow pulp from the grater with a fork. To Color Sng'ar. — For ornamenting the meringues of puddings and other desserts, take a little of the fresh juice of cranberries, red rasp- berries, currants, black raspberries, grapes, or other colored juices of fruits, thicken it stiff with the sugar, spread on a plate to dry, or use at once. It may be colored yellow with orange peel strained through a cloth, or green with the juice of spinach. Sugar prepared in this man- ner is quite as pretty and much more wholesome than the colored sugars found in market, which are often prepared with poisonous chemicals. FRUIT DESSERTS. RECIPES. Apple Dessert.— Pare some large tart apples, remove the cores, put into the cavities a little quince jelly, lemon flavored sugar, or grated pineapple and sugar, according to the flavor desired. Have as many squares of bread with the crust taken off as there are apples, and place a filled apple on each piece of bread, on earthen pie plates ; moisten well with a little quince jelly dissolved in water, lemon juice, or pine- apple juice, according to the filling used. Cover closely, and bake in a rather quick oven till the apples are tender. Serve with almond cream. 300 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Apple Meringue Dessert. — Pare and core enough tart, easy-cooking apples to make a quart when stewed. Cover closely and cook slowly till perfectly tender, when they should be quite dry. Mash through a colan- der, add a little sugar and a little grated pineapple or lemon peel. Beat light with a silver fork, turn into a pudding dish, and brown in a mod- erate oven ten or fifteen minutes. Then cover with a meringue made with two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the beaten whites of two eggs, and return to the oven for a moment to brown. Serve cold. Apple Rose Cream. — Wash, quarter, core, and cook without paring, a dozen fresh snow apples until very dry. When done, rub through a colander to remove the skins, add sugar to sweeten, and the whites of two eggs ; beat vigorously with an egg beater until stiff, add a tea- spoonful of rose water for flavoring, and serve at once, or keep on ice. It is especially important that the apples be very dry, otherwise the cream will not be light. If after rubbing through the colander, there is still much juice, they should be cooked again until it has evaporated ; or they may be turned into a jelly bag and drained. Other varieties of apple may be used, and flavored with pineapple or vanilla. Made as directed of snow apples or others with white flesh and red skins, the cream should be of a delicate pink color, making a very dainty as well as delicious dessert. Apple Snow. — Pare and quarter some nice tart apples. Those that when cooked will be whitest in color are best. Put them into a china dish, and steam until tender over a kettle of boiling water. When done, rub through a colander or beat with a fork until smooth, add sugar to sweeten and a little grated lemon rind, and beat again. For every cup and a half of the prepared apple allow the white of one egg, which beat to a stiff froth, adding the apple to it a little at a time, beating all together until, when taken up in a spoon, it stands quite stiff. Serve cold, with or without a simple custard prepared with a pint of hot milk, a tablespoonful .of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs. Baked Apples with Cream. — Pare some nice juicy sweet apples, and remove the cores withoiit dividing. Bake until tender in a covered dish with a spoonful or two of water on the bottom. Serve with whipped cream. Or, bake the apples without paring, and when done, remove the skins, and serve in the same manner. The cream may be flavored with a little lemon or rose if desired. Lemon apples and Citron apples, prepared as directed on pages i86 and 187, make a most delicious dessert served with almond cream and sugar, or with mock cream flavored with cocoanut. Baked Sweet Apple Dessert. — Wash and remove the cores from a dozen medium-sfzed sweet apples, and one third as many sour ones, and DESSERTS. 301 bake until well done. Mash through a colander to make smooth and re- move the skins. Put into a granite-ware dish, smooth the top with a knife, return to the oven and bake very slowly until dry enough to keep its shape when cut. Add if desired a meringue made by beating the white of one egg with a tablespoonful of sugar. Cut in squares, and serve in individual dishes. The meringue may be flavored with lemon or dotted with bits of colored sugar. Bananas in Syrup. — Heat in a porcelain kettle a pint of currant and red raspberry juice, equal parts, sweetened to taste. When boiling, drop into it a dozen peeled bananas, and simmer very gently for twenty minutes. Remove the bananas, boil the juice until thickened to the consistency of syrup, and pour over the fruit. Serve cold. Baked Bananas. — Bake fresh, firm, yellow bananas with the skins on fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. Serve hot. Fresh Fruit Compote. — Flavor three tablespoonfuls of sugar by mix- ing with it a little of the grated yellow rind of an orange, or by rubbing it over the orange to extract the oil. If the latter method is used, the square lump sugar will be preferable. Pare, quarter, and slice three medium-sized tart apples. Peel, remove the seeds, and cut in quite fine pieces three or- anges. Put the fruit in alternate layers in a glass dish. Sweeten a cupful of fresh or canned raspberry juice with the flavored sugar, and turn it over the fruit. Put the dish on ice to cool for a half hour before serving. Grape Apples. — Sweeten a pint of fresh grape juice with half a pint of sugar, and simmer gently until reduced one third. Pare and core without dividing, six or eight nice tart apples, and stew very slowly in the grape juice until tender, but not broken. Remove the apples and boil the juice (if any remain) until thickened to the consistency of syrup. Serve cold in individual dishes with a little of the grape syrup over each apple, or with a dressing of whipped cream. Canned grape pulp or juice may be utilized for this purpose. Sweet apples may be used instead of tart ones, and the sugar omitted. Peach Cream. — Pare and stone some nice yellow peaches, and mash -With a spoon or press through a colander with a potato masher. Allow equal quantities of the peach pulp and cream, add a little sugar to sweeten, and beat all together until the cream is light. Serve in saucers or glasses with currant buns. A banana cream may be prepared in the same manner. Prune Dessert. — Prepare some prune marmalade as directed on page 191. Put in a square granite-ware dish, which place inside another dish containing hot water, and cook in a slow oven until the marmalade is dry enough to retain its shape when cut with a knife. If desired add a meringue as for baked sweet apple dessert, dotting the top with pink sugar. Serve in squares in individual dishes. 302 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. DESSERTS MADE OF FRUIT WITH GRAINS, BREAD, ETC. RECIPES. Apple Sandwich. — Mix half a cup of sugar with the grated yellow riad of half a lemon. Stir half a cup of cream into a quart of soft bread crumbs ; prepare three pints of sliced apples, sprinkled with the sugar ; fill a pudding dish with alternate layers of moistened crumbs and sliced apples, finishing with a thick layer of crumbs. Unless the apples are very juicy, add half a cup of cold water, and unless quite tart, have mixed with the water the juice of half a lemon. Cover and bake about one hour. Remove the cover toward the last, that the top may brown lightly. Serve with cream. Berries or other acid fruits may be used in place of apples, and almond cream substituted for cream. Apple Sandwich No. 2. — Prepare and stew some apples as for sauce, allowing them to become quite dry ; flavor with lemon, pineapple, quince, or any desired flavor. Moisten slices of zwieback in hot cream as for toast. Spread a slice with the apple mixture, cover with a second slice of the moistened zwieback, then cut in squares and serve, with or without a dressing of mock cream. If desired to have the sandwiches particularly dainty, cut the bread from which the zwieback is prepared in rounds, tri- angles, or stars before toasting. Baked Apple Pudding'. — Pour boiling water over bread crumbs ; when soft, squeeze out all the water, and line the bottom and sides of an oiled earthen pudding dish with the crumbs. Fill the interior with sliced apples, and cover with a layer of bread crumbs. Bake in a covered dish set in a pan of hot water, until the apples are tender ; then remove the cover and brown. Loosen the pudding with a knife, invert on a plate, and it will turn out whole. Serve with almond cream. Barley Fruit Pudding. — Mix together a pint of cold, well steamed pearl barley, a cup of finely minced tart apples, three fourths of a cup of chopped and seeded raisins, a third of a cup of sugar, and a cup of boiling water and turn into a pudding dish ; cover, and place the dish in the oven in a pan of hot water, and bake slowly an hour and a half, or until the water has become quite absorbed and the fruit tender. Serve warm with a sauce made by dissolving a tablespoonful of apple jelly in a cup of hot Water, adding sugar to taste, and thickening with a half teaspoonful of cornstarch. Any tart fruit jelly may be used, or the pudding may be served with cream and sugar flavored with a little grated lemon rind. Barley Fig Pudding. — One pint of well-steamed pearl barley, two cups of finely chopped best figs, one half cup of sugar, one half cup of thin sweet cream, and one and one half cups of fresh milk. Mix all DESSERTS. 303 thoroughly, turn into an earthen pudding dish ; place it in the oven in a pan half full of hot water, and bake slowly till the milk is nearly ab- sorbed. The pudding should be stirred once or twice during the baking, so that the figs will be distributed evenly, instead of rising to the top. Blackberry Cornstarch Padding:. — Take two quarts of well-ripened blackberries which have been carefully looked over, put them into a granite-ware boiler with half a cup of water, and stew for twenty minutes. Add sugar to sweeten, and three heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed to a cream with a little cold water. Cook until thickened, pour into molds, and cool. Serve cold with milk or cream. Other fresh or canned berries may be used in the same way. Cocoanut and Cornstarch Blancmange. — Simmer two tablespoonfuls of desiccated cocoanut in a pint of milk for twenty minutes, and strain through a fine sieve. If necessary, add more cold milk to make the full pint. Add a tablespoonful of sugar, heat to boiling, and stir in gradually two table- spoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a very little cold milk. Cook five minutes, turn into cups, and serve cold with fruit sauce or cream. Cornstarch Blancmange. — Stir together two tablespoonfuls of corn- starch, half a cup of sugar, the juice and a little of the grated rind of one lemon ; braid the whole with cold water enough to dissolve well. Then pour boiling water over the mixture, stirring meanwhile, until it becomes transparent. Allow it to bubble a few minutes longer, pour into molds, and serve cold with cream and sugar. Cornstarch with BaLsins. — Measure out one pint of rich milk. Rub two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch perfectly smooth with a little of the milk, and heat the remainder to boiling, adding to it a tablespoonful of sugar. Add the braided cornstarch, and let it cook until it thickens, stirring con- stantly. Then add a half cup of raisins which have been previously steamed. This may be served hot with sugar and cream, or turned into cups and molded, and served cold with lemon, orange, or other fruit sauce for dressing. Cornstarch with Apples. — Prepare the cornstarch as in the preceding recipe, omitting the raisins. Place in a pudding dish some lemon apple sauce, without juice, about two inches deep. Pour the cornstarch over it, and serve hot or cold with cream. Cornstarch rrnit Mold. — Heat a quart of strawberry, raspberry, or cur- rant juice, sweetened to taste, to boihng. If the pure juice of berries is used, it may be diluted with one cup of water to each pint and a half of juice. Stir into it four tablespoonfuls of cornstarch well braided with a little of the juice reserved for this purpose. Boil until the starch is well cooked, stirring constantly. Pour into molds previously wet with cold water, and cool. Serve with cream and sugar. A circle of fresh berries firound the mold when served adds to its appearance. 304 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Cornstarch Fruit Mold No. 2. — Wash, stone, and stew some nice French prunes, add sugar to sweeten, and if there is not an abun- dance of juice, a little boiling water. For every one fourth pound of prunes there should be enough juice to make a pint in all, for which add two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, rubbed smooth in a little Cold water, and boil three or four minutes. Pour into cups previously wet in cold water, and mold. Serve cold with whipped cream. Other dried or canned fruits, as apricots, peaches, cherries, etc., may be used in place of prunes, if preferred. Escalloped Bananas.*^— Cut one-half dozen bananas into half Inch slices. Cut some bread into small pieces and put a layer of this into '.he bottom of an oiled pudding dish. Add a layer of bananas, two tableipoonfuls of malted nuts and one-half tablespoonful of lemon juice. A sprinkle of sugar may be used. Repeat these layers until all have been itsed, having bread as the top layer. Sprinkle the top with malted nuts or sugar, and bake one-half hour in a quick oven. Nut Loaf.* — Mix together equal parts of finely chopped English walnuts or pecans and finely minced raisins ; make into a loaf half an inch thick, cut into cubes one inch square, and serve like bromose. Fruit Roll.*— Make equal quantities of fig marmalade and chopped English walnuts ; a little lemon juice may be added if desired. Roll out into a cylinder two inches in diameter ; flour this with malted nuts ; cut into slices and serve. Farina Blancmange. — Heat a quart of milk, reserving one half cup, to boiling. Then add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and four heaping tablespoonfuls of farina, previously moistened with the reserved half cup of milk. Let all boil rapidly for a few minutes till the farina has well set, then place in a double boiler, or a dish set in a pan of boiling water, to cook an hour longer. Mold in cups previously wet with cold water. Serve with sugar and cream flavored with vanilla or a little grated lemon rind, mock cream, or cocoanut sauce. Much variety may be given this simple dessert by serving it with a dressing of fruit juices ; red raspberry, strawberry, grape, currant, cran- berry, cherry, and plum are all very good. If desired, the milk with which the blancmange is prepared may be first flavored with cocoanut, thus making a different blancmange. Fresh fruit, as sliced banana, blueber- ries, or strawberries, lightly stirred in just before molding, make other excellent varieties. Farina Fruit Mold. — Put a quart of well-sweetened red raspberry juice into the inner cup of a double boiler. Heat to boiling, and stir in four heaping tablespoonfuls of farina first moistened with a little of the juice. DESSERTS. 305 Boil up until thickened, then set into the outer boiler, the water in which should be boiling, and cook for one hour. Pour into molds pre- viously wet in cold water, and cool. Serve with whipped cream or mock cream. Currant, strawberry, cherry, or blackberry juice may be used instead of raspberry. If water be added to dilute the juice, a little more farina will be needed. Filled Bananas.*— Remove a section of the peel from large ripe bananas; then lift out the pulp so as to leave the shell. Crush raspberries slightly and sweeten to taste; add a few drops of lemon juice. Sugar may be omitted and malted nuts used instead. Fill the shell and serve on a dish garnished with any appropriate leaves. Pyramid of Peaches.* — Arrange peaches which have been cut into halves and stewed, around a cork-shaped crouton on small round crou- tons. In the center of each half peach put a blanched almond or a spoonful of English walnuts or pecans chopped fine. Over the whole pour the juice of the peaches which has been boiled with a little lemon juice. Malted nuts may be used in place of the nuts. Fruit Meringues.*— Remove the soft part of freshly made meringues and fill the cavities with meltose which has been beaten until a creamy white. Place in the center one large raspberry or pitted cherry. Plain Fruit Pudding or Brown Betty. — Chop together one part seeded raisins and two parts good tart apples. Fill a pudding dish with alternate layers of the fruit and bread crumbs, finishing with the bread crumbs on top. Unless the apples are very juicy, moisten the whole with a table- spoonful of lemon juice in a cup of cold water, for a pudding filling a three-pint dish. Cover the dish and place it in a moderate oven in a pan of hot water, and bake nearly an hour ; then remove from the pan, uncover, and brown nicely. Serve warm with cream and sugar, or with an orange or lemon sauce. Seeded cherries may be used in place of the apples and raisins. In that case, each layer of fruit should be sprinkled lightly with sugar, and the water omitted. Prune Pudding. — Moisten rather thin slices of stale bread in hot milk and place in a pudding dish with alternate layers of stewed prunes from which the stones have been removed, finishing with bread on top. Pour over the whole a little more hot milk or pure juice or both, and bake in a moderate oven three fourths of an hour. Serve hot or cold with orange or lemon sauce. Rice Meringue. — Steam a cupful of rice as directed on page 99 until ten- der and dry. Heap it loosely on a glass dish, and dot with squares of cran- berry or currant jelly. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth with one third cup of sugar, and pile it roughly over the rice. Serve with cream. 20 205 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Rice Snowball. — Wash a cupful of good rice and steam until half done. Have pared and cored without dividing, six large, easy cook- ing tart apples. Put a clean square of cheese cloth over a plate, place the apples on it, and fill them and all the interstices between with rice. Put the remainder of the rice over and around the apples ; tie up the cloth, and cook in a kettle of boiling water until the apples are tender. When done, lift from the water and drain well, untie the cloth, invert the pudding upon a plate and remove the cloth. Serve hot with cream and sugar or cocoanut sauce. Eice Fruit Dessert. — Cold boiled rice, molded so that it can be sliced, may be utilized in making a variety of delicious desserts. A nice pudding may be prepared by filling a dish with alternate layers of half-inch slices of molded rice and grated tart raw apples the same thickness. Grate a little lemon rind over each layer. Cover, and place in the oven in a pan of boiling water, and bake for an hour. Serve with sugar and cream. Stoned cherries or peaches may be used instead of the apple. Rice Dumpling. — Steam a teacup of rice until tender, and line an oiled earthen pudding dish, pressing it up around the sides and over the bottom. Fill the crust thus made with rather tart apples cut in small slices ; cover with rice, and steam until the apples are tender, which may be determined by running a broom-straw through them. Let stand until cold, then turn from the dish, and serve with sugar and cream. Any easy cooking tart fruit, as stoned cherries, gooseberries, etc., may be used in place of the apples when preferred. Rice Cream Pudding. — Take one cup of good well-washed rice, one scant cup of sugar, and eight cups of new milk, with a little grated lemon rind for flavoring. Put all into an earthen pudding dish, and place on the top of the range. Heat very slowly until the milk is boiling, stirring fre- quently, so that the rice shall not adhere to the bottom of the dish. Then put into a moderately hot oven, and bake without stirring, till the rice is perfectly tender, which can be ascertained by dipping a spoon in one side and taking out a few grains. It should be, when cold, of a rich, creamy consistency, with each grain of rice whole. Serve cold. It is best if made the day before it is needed. If preferred, the milk may be first flavored with cocoanut, according to the directions given on page 298. Rice Pudding' with Raisins. — Wash thoroughly one half cup of rice, and soak for two hours in warm water. Drain off the water, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one half cup of raisins, and four cups of milk. Put in an earthen pudding dish and cook for two hours in a moderate oven, stirring once or twice before the rice begins to swell, then add a cup of hot milk, and cook for an hour longer. DESSERTS. 307 Red Rice Mold. — Take one and one half pints of red currants and one half pint of red raspberries, and follow directions on page 209 for extract- ing their juice. The juice may be diluted with one part water to two of juice if desired. Sweeten to taste, and for each pint when boiling stir in two tablespoonfuls of ground rice or rice flour rubbed smooth in a little of the juice which may be retained for the purpose. Pour into molds, cool, and serve with whipped cream. Bice and Fruit Dessert. — Steam a cup of good well- washed rice in milk till tender. Prepare some tart apples by paring, dividing midway between the stem and blow ends, and removing the cores. Fill the cavities with quince or pineapple jelly ; put the apples in a shallow stewpan with a half cup of water, cover, and steam till nearly tender. Put the rice, which should be very moist, around the bottom and sides of a pudding dish ; place the apples inside, cover, and bake ten minutes. Serve with cream flavored with quince or lemon. Bice and Tapioca Pudding. — Soak one half cup of tapioca over night in a cup of water ; iu the morning drain off the water if any remains. Add to the tapioca half a cup of rice, one cup of sugar, one cup of raisins, and eight cups of new milk, with a little grated lemon rind for flavoring. Put all in an earthen pudding dish on the top of the range, where it will heat very gradually to the boiling point, stirring frequently. When the milk boils, put the pudding in the oven, and bake till the rice grains are perfectly tender but not broken and mushy. From twenty minutes to half an hour is usually sufficient. When taken from the oven, it will appear quite thin, but after cooling will be of a delicious, creamy consistency. Serve cold. Eice-Flour Mold. — Braid two tablespoonfuls of rice flour with a little milk and stir the mixture into a pint of boiling milk to which has been added three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a little salt if desired. Let this boil until it thickens, then mold, and serve with cream and sugar or with lemon, orange, or other fruit sauce. Bice and Stewed Apple Dessert. — Steam or bake some rice in milk until tender, sweeten slightly and spread a layer of the rice half an inch thick on the bottom of a pudding dish, then a layer of lemon-flavored apple sauce, which has been rubbed through a colander and afterward simmered on the range until stiff. If preferred, the sauce may be pre- pared by first baking the apples, and then rubbing the pulp through a colander. Add another layer of rice, then one of sauce, and so on until the dish is full. Bake in a moderate oven and serve hot. If the apples are not very tart, part stewed and sifted cranberries may be used with them. 308 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Eice and Strawberry Dessert. — Soak a cup of rice in one and a half cups of new milk ; place all in an earthen dish, and steam an hour, or until dry and tender, stirring occasionally for the first fifteen minutes. When the rice is done, place in the bottom of qups previously moistened with cold water, five nice hulled strawberries in the shape of a star. Carefully fill the interstices between the berries with the cooked rice, and put in a layer of rice. Add next a layer of strawberries, then another of rice. Press firmly into the cups, and set away to cool. When well molded, turn into saucers, and pile whipped cream around each mold ; sprinkle with sugar and serve. A little care in forming the stars and filling the molds makes this a delicious and pretty dessert. If preferred, the dessert may be prepared in one large mold, and a larger number of berries arranged in the form of a cross in the bottom of the dish, covering with rice, and adding as many alternate layers of berries and rice as desired. Stewed Fruit Pudding. — Take a deep, square or oblong granite-ware or earthen dish ; cut strips of stale bread uniformly an inch in width and three fourths of an inch in thickness, and place them in the mold with spaces between them equal to their width. Or, fit the strips around the bottom of a round, earthen pudding dish, like the spokes of a wheel, with an open space between each and in the center. Have ready some hot stewed or canned fruit, sweetened to taste ; whortleberries are best, but apricots, cherries, currants, strawberries, and gooseberries may all be used. Separate the juice from the berries by turning them into a colan- der. Fill the interstices between the bread with hot fruit, using just as little juice as possible. Cover with another layer, this time placing the strips of bread over the fruit in the first layer, and leaving the spaces for fruit over the bread in the first layer. Fill the dish with these layers of fruit and bread, and when full, pour over all the hot fruit juice. Put a plate with a weight on it on the top to press it firmly. Dip off any juice that may be pressed out, and set the pudding in the refrigerator to cool and press. When cold, it will turn out whole, and can be cut m slices and served with whipped cream or cocoanut sauce. Strawberry Minute Pudding. — Cook a quart of ripe strawberries in a pint of water till well scalded. Add sugar to taste. Skim out the fruit, and into the boiling juice stir a scant cup of granulated wheat flour pre- viously rubbed to a paste with a little cold water ; cook fifteen or twenty minutes, pour over the fruit, and serve cold with cream sauce. Sweet Apple Pudding:. — Pare, core, and slice enough ripe, juicy sweet apples to fill a pint bowl. Heat a quart of new milk to scalding in a double boiler. Pour it hot over one cup of good granulated cornmeal, and beat very thoroughly to remove all lumps. Return to the double DESSERTS. 309 boiler, and cook until the meal is set. The batter then should be about the consistency of corn mush. Remove from the fire, add a pint of cold milk, stir in the sliced apples, one third of a cup of sugar or molasses, and a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a very little milk. Turn all into a deep earthen crock or pudding dish, and bake slowly from three to four hours, stirring frequently the first hour. It should be moderately browned on top when done. Serve warm or cold. Whortleberry Pudding:. — One quart of new milk, one quart of fine bread crumbs, two quarts of fresh whortleberries, one or two table- spoonfuls of sugar. Heat the milk to boiling ; fill a pudding dish with alternate layers of bread crumbs and berries, beginning and ending with crumbs. Add the sugar to the milk, let it dissolve, and pour the whole over the pudding. Cover closely, and bake in a slow oven within a pan of hot water nearly an hour. Serve warm with cream or cocoanut sauce. DESSERTS WITH TAPIOCA, SAGO, MANIOCA, AND SEA MOSS. Both pearl and flake tapioca are suitable for these desserts. They should be soaked for some hours before using, and it is always best to soak over night if convenient. The flake tapioca requires longer soaking and cooking than the pearl tapioca. For soaking, use one and a half cups of water for each cup of flake tapioca, and one pint of water for a cup of pearl tapioca. For cooking, three or four additional cups of water will be required for each cup of tapioca, depending upon the articles used with it. A double boiler should be used for the cooking. REC/PES. Apple Tapioca. — Soak a cupful of pearl tapioca over night. In the morning simmer in a quart of boiling water until transparent and thick- ened. Arrange in the bottom of a pudding dish four or five good-sized tart apples, which have been pared, cored, and the cavities filled with sugar. Squeeze the juice of a lemon and grate a very little of the rind over the apples. Pour the tapioca over the fruit. Set the dish inside a pan filled with hot water, cover, and bake one hour, or until the apples are done. Serve with sugar and cream. It is best nearly cold. Fresh peaches, pared and" stewed, may be used in place of apples, if preferred. Apple Tapioca No. 2. — Soak a half cup of tapioca in a cup of tepid water, for at least three hours. Pare, core, and quarter nice tart apples 310 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. to fill a two-quart puddiag dish nearly half full. Add four cups of water and one of sugar to the soaked tapioca, pour it over the apples, and bake two or three hours in a slow oven. Serve with whipped cream. Banana Dessert. — Soak a cup of tapioca over night. In the morning cook in a double boiler in a quart of water until transparent. When done, add a cup of sugar and three or four sliced bananas. Serve cold with cream. Blackberry Tapioca. — Soak a cup of tapioca over night. When ready to cook, add three cups of boiling water and cook in a double boiler until transparent and smooth. Sprinkle a quart of fresh blackberries with sugar, and stir lightly into the tapioca. Pour into molds and serve cold with cream and sugar. Other fresh berries may be used in the same way. Cherry Pndding'. — Soak and cook a half cup of tapioca in a pint of water until transparent. Have a pint of fresh pitted cherries in an earthen pudding dish. Sprinkle them well with sugar, pour over them the cooked tapioca, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Serve hot with or without cream. Fruit Tapioca. — Cook three fourths of a cup of tapioca in four cups of water until smooth and transparent. Stir into it lightly a pint of fresh strawberries, raspberries, currants, or any small fruit, adding sugar as required. For variety a cup of canned quinces or apricots may be sub- stituted for fresh fruit. Serve warm or cold with whipped cream or mock cream. Molded Tapioca with Fruit. — Simmer one half cup of desiccated cocoa- nut in a pint of milk for twenty minutes. Strain out the cocoanut, and add milk to make a full pint. Add one half cup of sugar and one half cup of tapioca previously soaked over night. Let the whole simmer until the tapioca is transparent. Dip some cups in cold water, drain, and lay fresh strawberries, currants, or cherries in the bottom of each in the form of a star or cross. Pour the tapioca into the molds gently, so as not to displace the fruit. When cold, turn out and serve with whipped cream or fruit sauce. Raisins may be substituted for fresh fruit, or bits of jelly may be placed around the mold after it has cooled, if preferred. Pineapple Tapioca. — Soak one cup of tapioca over night in one and one half cups of water. Add two and one half cups of water and cook in a double boiler until transparent, then add one cup of sugar and one juicy pineapple minced fine with a sharp knife. Mold, and serve cold with or without cream. Prune and Tapioca Pudding:. — Soak one half cup of tapioca over night. In the morning cook until transparent in two cups of water. Stew two cups of well-washed and stoned prunes in a quart of water till perfectly tender ; then add the juice of a good lemon and two tablespoonfuls of bESSERtS. 311 sugar, and boil till the syrup becomes thick and rich. Turn the prunes into a pudding dish, cover with the cooked tapioca, and add a little grated lemon rind. Bake lightly. Serve without dressing or with sugar and cream or almond sauce. If preferred, the prunes and tapioca may be placed in the dish in alternate layers, having the top one of tapioca. Tapioca and Fig Pudding. — Cook three fourths of a cup of tapioca as for Apple Tapioca. Have ready two cups of finely sliced or chopped tart apples, and one cup of chopped figs, which have first been lightly steamed. If preferred, raisins may be used in place of half the figs. Put the fruit in the bottom of the pudding dish, turn the tapioca over it, and bake till the fruit is very soft. If the apples are not very tart, sprinkle the juice of a lemon over them before adding the figs and tapioca. A nice fruit pudding can also be made by using half canned pears and half apples, or canned quinces may be substituted for figs. Peach Tapioca. — For this will be needed a quart of nicely canned peaches, a cup of tapioca, and from one half to three fourths of a cup of sugar, according to the sweetness of the peaches. Soak the tapioca over night in just enough water to cover. When ready to cook, put in a double boiler with three cups of water, and cook for an hour. Remove from the fire and add to it the juice from the peaches, of which there should be a cup and a half, which has been secured by draining the peaches in a colander, and stir it well into the tapioca. Place a layer of this mixture in an oiled pudding dish, add the peaches, cover with the remainder of the tapioca, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Tapioca Jelly. — Soak a cup of tapioca in a pint of water over night. Add another pint and cook until transparent and smooth. Add three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and four tablespoonfuls of sugar ; beat well together and turn into molds. Serve cold. No /dressing is required. This may be varied by using unsweetened currant, grape, or other acid fruit juice in place of lemon. Fruit jelly may be used if the juice is not eas- ily obtained. Add when the tapioca is well cooked, and stir until dissolved. Apple Sago Pudding. — Soak one cup of sago in six cups of water ; stew ten small apples, mix with the sago, and bake three quarters of an hour. Serve with cream and sugar. It is better warm than cold, but acceptable either way. Red Sago Mold. — Take a quart of red raspberry juice, pure or diluted with one third water, and sweeten to taste. Have ready one half cup of best sago which has soaked for twenty minutes in just enough water to cover. Drain off any water that may remain. Add the sago to the juice, and cook until the sago is transparent, then turn into molds. Serve cold with cream. Cranberry or strawberry juice may be used in place of the raspberry, if preferred. 312 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Sago Fruit Pudding.— Soak a small cup of sago an hour in just enough water to cover. Drain off any water that may not be absorbed. Mix two thirds of a cup of sugar with the sago, and stir all into a quart of boiling water. Let it boil until the sago is perfectly transparent and pour in a pint of nicely hulled strawberries. Turn into molds to cool, or serve warm with cream, as preferred. Tapioca can be used instead of sago, but needs longer soaking. Raspberries, stoned cherries, or currants can be used in place of strawberries. Sago Pudding. — Soak a cupful of sago for twenty minutes in a cup of cold water ; then pour over it a quart and a cup of boiling water, add a cup of sugar and one half cup of raisins. Cook till the sago is per- fectly transparent, flavor with vanilla, and set away to cool. Serve with whipped cream. Manioca with Fruit. — Pare, core, and quarter six medium-sized tart apples, and put them to cook in a quart of boiling water. Add a cup of sugar, and cook without stirring until softened, then sprinkle into the water in which they are cooking iive tablespoonfuls of manioca, and cook until it is transparent, which will be in about ten minutes. Flavor with a little grated lemon rind, and serve hot with sugar and cream, or mold, as preferred. Canned peaches, apricots, or cherries may be used in a similar manner, adding boiling water if there is not sufficient juice to properly cook the manioca. Or the manioca may be first cooked in boil- ing water, using four scant tablespoonfuls for a pint of water, and when transparent, turning it over sliced bananas, pineapples, or oranges, mold- ing, and serving with cream and sugar. Raspberry Manioca Mold. — Heat a pint of water, and when boiling, sprinkle into it four scant tablespoonfuls of manioca and cook for ten minutes or until transparent, stirring continually. When transparent and thickened, remove from the fire, and add a tablespoonful of lemon juice and one cup of sugar. Place a layer of the cooked manioca in the bottom of a pudding dish, add a layer of freshly picked red raspberries, then another of the manioca, filling the dish in alternate layers with one of manioca for the top. Set away in some cool place until well molded. Serve in slices with cream flavored with rose. Other fresh berries may be used instead of raspberries. Sea Moss Blancmange. — Wash the moss well in several waters, and soak in a very little cold water for an hour before using. It is hardly possible to give exact directions for making this blancmange, owing to the difficulty of accurately measuring the moss, but in general, a small hand- ful will be ample for a quart of milk. Add the moss, when washed, to the milk, and cook in a double boiler until the milk has become thick- ened and glutinous. Add sugar to sweeten, flavor with vanilla or rose DESSERTS. 313 water, and strain through a fine sieve into cups previously wet in cold water, and mold. This may be varied by using boiling water instead of milk for cooking, adding the juice of one or two lemons and a little grated rind to flavor. DESSERTS MADE WITH GELATINE. Gelatine is an article largely employed in making delicate and dainty dishes. It is an especially convenient material, as the dessert can be prepared several hours before needed; but it must be stated that it has in itself little or no food value, and there is great liability of its being unwholesome. A writer in the Anti- Adulteration Journal, a short time since, speaking of the use of gelatine, says : — " The nutritive value of pure gelatine has been shown to be very low in the scale of foods. The beef gelatine of the mar- kets that is used by bakers, is far from being pure gelatine. It frequently has a very disagreeable, fetid odor, and has evidently begun to decompose during the process of manufacture. After a thorough drying, putrefaction does not take place as long as it remains dry. But suppose that gelatine which has thus be- gun to decompose during the drying process, containing, per- haps, putrefactive germs in the dried state, be dissolved in water, and in hot weather, kept in this condition for a few hours previous to being used ; the result would be rapid pu- trefaction. The putrefaction would be checked by freezing ; but the bacteria causing it are not killed by the low temperature- As soon as the dessert is melted or eaten, they resume their activity in the body, and may cause sickness. It is a well- known fact that gelatine is an excellent medium in which to cultivate various kinds of micro-organisms ; and if the con- clusions here mentioned be correct, it seems that gelatine should be used with great care in connection with food prepa- rations." There is, however, a vegetable gelatine which, while serving a better purpose than the ordinary animal gelatine, is not open to these objections and at the same time is a material of high nutritive value when combined with fruit juices or farina- ceous substances, being especially rich in proteids. 3H SCIE^*C2 IN THE KITCHEN. To Prepare Sanitas Vegetable Gelatine for Desserts. — Soak it in hot water (that of about 140° is best) for twenty minutes. Remove from this water, and put it into an iron or heavy bottomed kettle. Pour over it boiling water, four cupfuls to the ounce of gelatine, and let it boil eight or ten minutes, or until it is perfectly clear. Strain through a cheesecloth. A box of the gelatine or one ounce will solidify twelve cups or three quarts of liquid inclusive of the water in which it is cooked. In summer a little less liquid should be used. After the des- serts have been prepared, set on ice until ready to serve. RECIPES. Lemon Jelly.— Prepare one fourth of a box of vegetable gelatine as above directed. To one-half cup of lemon juice, add one cup of sugar, one and one-fourth cups of water, and then one cup of cooked 'gelatine. Pour into molds which have been previously wet with cold water, and set in a cool place or on the ice to mold. This may be served with or without a dressing of whipped cream, or beaten meltose, flavored with vanilla. Orange Jelly. — To one cup of orange juice add one cup of sugar, one- fourth cup of lemon juice, one-half cup of water, and one cup of cooked gelatine. Mold and serve the same as lemon jelly. Pineapple Mold. — To one and one-half cups of pineapple juice add one- fourth cup of lemon juice, one cup of sugar, and one cup of the cooked gelatine. Mold and serve the same as lemon jelly. Other jellied desserts may be made by using grape, cherry, strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, or other fruit juices in the place of pineapple. Apple Jelly. — Substitute apple juice for orange juice and proceed as for orange jelly. Orange Fruit Mold. — Line molds with sections of orange from which the fiber has been removed, and pour over them orange jelly. Set on the ice until ready to serve. Banana and Other Fruit Molds.— Prepare a lemon, pineapple, or other fruit jelly. About one minute after it has been poured into molds, slice into it some ripe bananas. If the slices do not readily sink to place, they may be put there with the end of a knife. Other fruits may be substituted for the banana; viz., cherry, straw- berry, raspberry, pineapple, etc. Apples in Jelly. — Pare and core without cutting open, one dozen medium-sized tart apples, of the same degree of hardness. Fill the centers with a little grated lemon rind and sugar. Put one-half cup of hot water into a pan and set into the oven to cook. When tender, arrange in a deep DESSERTS. 315 dish with some space between each apple, and pour over them a lemon, pineapple or apple jelly, prepared as directed above. Cool and set on the ice until ready to serve. Fruit Charlotte. — Cut strips of sponge cake three fourths of an inch wide, dip into the white of an egg, and arrange in spindle form from the center of a glass dish, with the outer portion of the cake reaching to the edge of the dish, or arrange the strips in circles around the dish. Fill with a fruit jelly and set on the ice to mold. When solidified, a meringue may be added if desired. Mock Chicken Jelly, No. 1.— Cut a pound of nuttolene into cubes. Put into a double boiler, and add three cups of hot water, the yolks of three eggs, well beaten, and one-half cup of cocoanut or dairy cream. Season with one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of celery salt, one slice of onion, and a, pinch each of mint, marjoram, and sage. Cook forty- five minutes. Strain and measure. To every two cups of the broth, add one cup of the cooked gelatine. Mold and cut into oblong or square sections, and garnish with celery, lettuce, or parsley. Mock Chicken Jelly, No. 2. — Brown one cup of almond meal in the oven. Tie it in cheesecloth and cook one-half hour in three cups of water. Add one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of celery salt, a slice of onion, and a pinch each of mint, thyme, and marjoram. Strain, and to two cups of the liquid add one cup of the cooked gelatine. Mold and serve as the above. Chocolate Mold, No. 1. — Rub smooth three tablespoonfuls of almond but- ter with one cup of cold water, adding a little of the water at a time. To this add one and one-half cups of hot water, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, four heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, six heaping tablespoonfuls of health cocoa moistened with one-half cup of hot water. Let all boil for one min- ute, then add two cups (^oz.) of the cooked vegetable gelatine. Flavor with vanilla and turn into a glass dish to mold. This may be served with a meringue, if desired. Chocolate Mold, No. 2.— Heat in a double boiler two cups of milk and one cup of dairy or cocoanut cream. Beat to a cream the yolks of two eggs and four heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, and stir into the milk. Dissolve four heaping tablespoonfuls of health cocoa with some of the milk, and add to the mixture. Let all boil for one minute. Add two cups (yi oz.) cooked vegetable gelatine. Flavor with vanilla. Turn into a glass dish or small molds previously wet with cold water. Cool and set in refrigerator. Serve with whipped cream, whipped almond cream, or sliced bananas. Chocolate Charlotte. — Line a glass dish as for fruit charlotte, and fill with chocolate mold. Meringue if desired. Fruit Sandwich. —Prepare an orange or lemon jelly as above directed. Mold in shallow tins of uniform size. Prepare a stiff marmalade of figs or dates and one-half the quantity of English walnuts ground fine or pressed through a colander and moistened with a little lemon juice. Arrange the jelly and marmalade in alternate layers, having three layers of jelly and two of marmalade. Serve with cream or beaten meltose. 3l6 SCIENCE IN TSE EITCHEN. Layer Pudding.— Prepare a lemon jelly as previously directed, and also a cherry, strawberry, or raspberry jelly. Fill molds with one half of each, or if desired, the mold may be filled with alternate layers of each, care being taken that each layer becomes partially cooled before another is added, to prevent the commingling of the jellies. Lemon Gelee.— For this take two cups of lemon juice, two cups of sugar, six cups of water, one ounce of vegetable gelatine, one and one-half cups meltose, beaten, one and one-half tablespoonfuls vanilla, whites of three eggs. Soak the gelatine as previously directed. Remove it from the water in which it has been soaking and add four cups of boiling water. Cook for eight or ten minutes, or until perfectly smooth and clear, stirring frequently to pre- vent burning. While this is cooking, put together the lemon juice, water, and sugar. Beat the meltose until quite light in color, and add to it the vanilla. Beat the egg whites until stiff, and fold them into the meltose. Strain the gelatine through cheesecloth and add to the lemon mixture, stir- ring constantly to prevent solidification. Then add the meltose and egg mixture, and freeze to the consistency of a stifiE mush. The above amount will make one gallon. Pineapple Gelee.— For this will be needed three and one-half cups gyrated or four cups pineapple juice; two cups sugar, one-half cup lemon juice, three cups water, one ounce vegetable gelatine; one and one-half cups beaten meltose, one and one-half tablespoonfuls vanilla, whites of three eggs. Put together the same as for lemon gelee. Other fruit juices may be used, such as orange, pineapple, raspberry, grape, peach, or apple. If fresh fruit is used, it should first be put through a colander. Lemon Sherbet. — Take one cup lemon juice, one and one-fourth cups sugar, three cups water, two cups {yi. box) of the cooked vegetable gelatine, whites of three eggs. Put together and freeze the same as for lemon gelee, with this exception, that the whites of the eggs should be stirred in after the rest of the mixture is partially frozen. Pineapple and Orange Sherbet.— Take one-fourth cup lemon juice; one cup orange juice, one cup pineapple juice, or one cup grated pineapple, one and one-fourth cups sugar, three cups of water, two cups of cooked (% box) vegetable gelatine, whites of three eggs. Put together the same as for lemon sherbet, and freeze. Peach Sandwich. — Pare some large, well-ripened but firm peaches. Cut in halves, removing the stones. Fill the cavity with lemon gelee and serve. Nut Pound Cake.* — For this is required three large or four small eggs, a scant cupful of granulated sugar, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one tablespoonful of ice-water, one cup of sifted nut meal (peanut, almond, or filbert nut meal may be used), one-half cup of finely chopped or ground citron, one-half to two-thirds cup pastry flour sifted once before measuring. Have all the ingredients as nearly ice cold as possible. Sift the sugar; DESSERTS. 317 sift the flour twice and leave it in the sifter. Beat the yolks of the eggs in a cake bowl with a revolving egg beater, adding the sugar gradually. When stiff, add part of the water and more sugar. Beat, add more water, sugar, and half the lemon juice, until all the sugar is in. Stir into this mixture half the nut meal, a good pinch of salt, and the citron. Add the remainder of the lemon juice to the whites of the eggs when moderately stiff, and beat until dry and feathery. Slide the beaten whites on the yolk mixture, sprin- kle part of the nut meal over them, and sift on a little flour. Chop in lightly, dipping from the bottom with a large spoon three times. Add more meal and flour and continue until the flour is all in. The mixture should not get soft. If a streak of flour shows when in the pan, it will do no harm. Bake slowly in an oven which bakes well from the bottom ("the top grate of a gas stove is preferable) from one to one and one-half hours. Handle care- fully when removing from the oven. Do not use spring wheat flour. This is an excellent cake to serve with chocolate gelee. Cake with Orange Cream Filling.*— Simple sponge cakes may be baked in a round tin, placing a cup in the center before turning in the batter, thus forming a hollow center to be filled with the following : — Emulsify one tablespoonful of almond butter with one cup of cold water, adding a little at a time. Strain to make smooth. Add three- fourths cup of cocoanut or dairy cream, and the same of beaten meltose. Heat to boiling, and when cool, add one cup (one-fourth ounce) of cooked vegetable gelatine, the juice of one orange, and one tablespoonful of vanilla. Let it partially solidify before filling the cake. Cliocolate Gelee.* — For this is required three fourths of a pound of al- mond butter emulsified in five cups of cold water; four eggs; one cup of cocoanut cream; one and one-half cups of beaten meltose; nine tablespoon- fuls of sugar ; eight rounded tablespoonf uls of Sanitas health cocoa mois- tened with one cup of hot water, and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of vanilla. Beat together the almond cream, the sugar, yolks of eggs, and moistened cocoa, and heat to boiling. Remove from the stove, add the beaten meltose, vanilla, and cocoanut cream, and when cold, the vegetable gelatine. Lastly, add the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs and freeze. DESSERTS WITH CRUSTS. RECIPES. Apple Tart. — Pare and slice some quick-cooking, tart apples, and 'jlace them in the bottom of a pudding dish, with a tablespoonful of water. Cover with a crust prepared in the following manner : Into a cup of thin cream stir a gill of yeast and two cups of flour ; let this become very 3l8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. light, then add sufficient flour to mix soft. Knead for fifteen or twenty minutes very thoroughly, roll evenly, and cover the apples ; put all in a warm place until the crust has become very light, then bake. If the apples do not bake easily, they may be partially cooked before putting on the crust. Dish so that the fruit will be uppermost, and serve cold with cream and sugar, cocoanut sauce, or mock cream. Apple Tart with Nut Crust.— Prepare the fruit as directed in the pre- ceding recipe. Cover with a crust made by sifting together one cup of nut meal and one cup of flour until thoroughly mingled. Make into a dough with one fourth cup of water, and roll without kneading. Spread over the apple and bake. Gooseberries, cherries which have been stoned, and sliced peaches may be used instead of apples. If the fruit is very juicy, sprinkle a tablespoonful of flour over it before putting on the crust. Bake in a moderately quick oven. Strawberry and Other Fruit Shortcakes.— A crust prepared as directed for Apple Tart, rolled about one half inch in thickness, making the center a little thinner than the edges, so that when risen, the center will not be the highest, and baked in two laj'ers, may be used ; or one prepared as directed for Apple Tart with Nut Crust. Fresh granose biscuit split in halves nicely browned and spread with almond butter make excellent indi- vidual shortcakes. A sponge cake made after any preferred recipe and baked in layers, is also considered very nice for shortcake. It is generally desirable to omit a portion of the sugar from the cake if sugar is used in the berries. Spread one cake with fruit, and cover with the other. If the fruit is large, it may be chopped with a knife or mashed with a spoon. A little lemon juice added to peaches is an addition for short- cake. Banana Shortcake. — Prepare the crust as previously directed. Fill with sliced bananas, for every three of which add the the juice of one orange, a little of the grated rind, and a half cup of sugar. Lemon Shortcake. — Prepare the crust as for Fruit Shortcake. For the filling, grate the yellow portion only of the lemon, and squeeze the juice into a bowl ; add a cupful of sugar. Braid a tablespoonful of flour smooth with two tablespoonfuls of water, add enough boiling water, stir- ring well meanwhile, to make a teacupful. Add this to the other ingredi- ents, beat well together, and place the bowl in a basin of boiling water or over the teakettle. Cook until about as thick as boiled custard. Fill this between the shortcakes and serve. Berry Shortcake with Prepared Cream.— Prepare the shortcake as pre- viously directed. Sweeten the berries and spread on the lower crust, then pour over them a " cream " prepared as follows, and add top crust : DESSERTS. 319 Cream. — Heat one half cup of milk and the same of thin cream to boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and thicken with one teaspoon- ful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Turn the hot sauce over the beaten white of two eggs, stirring rapidly meanwhile, until the egg is thoroughly mingled with the whole. Allow it to become cold before using. Raised Pie. — Prepare the dough as for shortcake. Divide in two portions, spread one on the tin, and cover with a layer of easy-cooking tart apples sliced in eighths. Put two or three spoonfuls of rather thick sweet cream over the apples, and cover with the top crust. Let the crusts rise until very light, and bake. Peaches may be used in the same manner. Baked Apple Loaf. — Prepare some dough as for buns on page 347, leaving out the sugar, and when ready for the last molding, cut it into three portions. Put some flour on the bread board, mold the dough well, and roll as thin as pie crust in such shape as will fit a shallow bak- ing tin. Spread over the tin, and cover the dough with a layer of easy- cooking, sour apples sliced very thin, or with very stiff apple marmalade. Cover this with a second layer of dough, then add another layer of ap- ples, and cover with the third portion of the dough. Pinch the edges of the dough well together, let the loaf rise till very light, then bake. Eat cold with sugar and cream. If the apples will not cook quickly, they may be first steamed until nearly tender. If the crust appears too hard when taken from the oven, cover with a wet napkin and allow it to steam for a little time until softened. CUSTARD PUDDINGS. Very much depends upon the baking in all puddings made with milk and eggs. A custard pudding made with one egg, and slowly baked, will be much thicker and nicer than one made with more eggs, baked in too hot an oven. A custard pudding baked too quickly or too long will have the eggs mixed with the farinaceous substance and the milk turned to whey, while one more carefully baked will have eggs and milk formed into a thick custard on the top. Custard puddings and all other baked puddings which re- quire to be cooked slowly, are best cooked in an earthen dish set in the oven in a pan of hot water, and baked only till the 320 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. pudding is set. If it is desirable to use with eggs any ingredi- ent which requires a lengthy cooking, it is much better to cook it partially before adding the eggs. Many custard desserts are much more dainty and more easily served when cooked in cups than when baked in a large dish. The blue willow pat- tern stoneware cups and the blue and white Japanese ware are very suitable for this purpose. When cooking, set the cups, allowing one for each person, in the oven in a dripping pan containing hot water, and bake. Serve without removing from the cups. If desired to stir beaten eggs into heated milk, add a few spoonfuls of cold milk to the eggs, and pour the mixture, a lit- tle at a time, into the hot milk, taking care to stir it constantly. A nice way to flavor custards and meringues for custard puddings is to beat fruit jelly with the whites of the eggs ; red raspberry, quince, and pineapple jellies give especially nice flavors. Nut cream may be used for custards. REC/PES. Apple Custard. — Bake good tart apples ; when done, remove the pulp, and rub through a sieve ; sweeten, and flavor with grated pineapple or grated orange or lemon rind. Put in a glass dish, and cover with a plain custard prepared as directed on page 328. Bits of jelly may be scattered over the top of the custard. Apple Custard No. 2. — Peel, halve, and core eight or ten medium-si^ed sour apples. Have prepared a syrup made with a cup of water, the juice of one lemon, a httle grated rind, and a half cup of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, add the fruit, and simmer till tender but not fallen to pieces. Skim out the apples, draining thoroughly, and lay them in a glass dish. Boil up the syrup until thick, and pour it over the apples. Make a soft boiled custard with a pint of milk, yolks of three eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. When cold, spread over the apples ; whip the whites to a stiff froth, flavor with lemon, and pile irregularly upon the top. Brown lightly in the oven. Apple Custard No. 3. — Pare and remove the cores from a dozen tart apples, and fill the cavities with black raspberry, quince, or grape jelly. Put them in a covered baking dish with a tablespoonful of water, and steam in the oven till tender but not fallen to pieces. Then cover the apples with a raw custard made by cooking two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth with a little milk, in a quart of milk, till just thickened, DESSERTS. 321 and adding, when cold, the yolks of two eggs well beaten with two heap- ing tablespoonfuls of sugar, and lastly the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth. Bake in a dish set in a pan of hot water, until the custard has set, but not till it separates. Apple Cornstarch Custard. — Cover the bottom of a small earthen-ware pudding dish an inch or more in depth with apples stewed until very dry, sweetened and flavored with a teaspoonful of rose water. Heat a cup of milk to boiling, and stir into it a tablespoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, and one fourth cup of sugar ; cook until thick- ened, then add the yolk of one egg, and pour the whole over the apple. Meringue the top with the white of the egg beaten stiff with a tablespoon- ful of sugar, and flavored with a little rose water. Apple and Bread Custard. — For this is required one cup of finely rolled bread crumbs, two eggs, one half cup of sugar, one cup minced sour apples, and one quart of milk. Beat the sugar and yolks together, add the milk, bread, and fruit, and lastly the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in a dish set in a pan of hot water till firm but not dry. Almond Cornstarch Pudding'. — Blanch one and one half ounces of sweet almonds, and reduce them to a paste as directed on page 394 ; or if obtainable, almondine may be used instead of the prepared almonds. Heat a quart of milk, and while boiling, stir into it four tablespoonfuls of cornstarch which has been braided smooth with a little cold milk ; let it thicken over the fire, stirring all the time. Then add two table- spoonfuls of thick, sweet cream. Lastly, stir in two or three well-beaten eggs and a tablespoonful of rose water. Let it come just to the boiling point, and remove from the stove. Keep in a cold place till needed. Serve with hot mock cream or with grape pulp as dressing. Almond Cream. — Heat a pint of milk, and when boiling stir into it two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, also one fourth cup of sugar and three tablespoonfuls of almondine. Cook until thickened, and pour it, stirring constantly meanwhile, over the beaten whites of two eggs. Set on ice to cool, and serve with grape pulp as dressing. A cupful of blanched and chopped almonds may be used in- stead of almondine if that is not obtainable. The pudding will then require an additional one fourth cup of sugar. Apple Charlotte. — Take three cups of nicely stewed tart apples which have been beaten smooth or rubbed through a colander and sweetened to taste. If the sauce is thin and very juicy, place it upon the range, and simmer slowly till it is of the consistency of thick marmalade or jelly. Add to the apples four tablespoonfuls of grated fresh or canned pineapple for flavoring. Remove the hard crusts from slices of light whole-wheat bread, spread them quite thickly with the prepared apple, and pack in 322 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. layers in a pudding mold. Cover with a simple custard made of a quart of milk, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two eggs. Let it stand half an hour, then bake. Do not press the bread or beat it after the custard is turned on, as that will be likely to make the pudding heavy. Other fruit marmalade may be used in place of the apple preparation if preferred. Banana Custard. — Prepare a custard as directed for Plain Custard with a quart of milk, two well-beaten eggs, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one of cornstarch. When the custard is cool, pour it over four thinly sliced yellow bananas, over which a tablespoonful of sugar and a teaspoonful of water have been sprinkled. Serve cold. Boiled Custard. — Beat thoroughly together one pint of milk, two eggs, and a tablespoonful or two of sugar, until thoroughly mingled. Turn the mixture into a double boiler, and cook until the custard is set. Boiled Custard Bread Pudding. — Crumble enough of the soft portion of stale whole-wheat bread to lightly fill a pint bowl. Heat a pint of milk to boiling. Stir into it, as soon as it boils, two eggs, yolks and whites well beaten separately, two heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little grated lemon rind, and the light bread crumbs ; stir rapidly till the whole thick- ens, pour into a deep dish, and when cold, dot the top with bits of currant or cranberry jelly. Bread and Fruit Custard. — Take for this, two cups of grated bread crumbs, two cups of finely chopped tart apples, one cup of English cur- rants or stoned raisins, mixed with a very little chopped citron for flavor, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, three cups of milk, and two eggs. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, then add the milk, bread, fruit, and lastly the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in a dish set within a pan of hot water, until the custard is set. Bread Custard Pudding:. — Take one cup of finely powdered bread crumbs, one half cup of sugar, one quart of milk, and the beaten yolks of three eggs and whites of two. Mix the bread and milk, and when well softened, add the beaten yolks, sugar, and lastly the well-beaten whites ; beat all together thoroughly, season with a little grated lemon rind ; place the pudding dish in the oven in a pan of hot water, and bake till firm and lightly brown. Take from the oven, cover the top with a layer of apple marmalade made without sugar, or with some tart fruit jelly ; add to this a meringue made of the white of the remaining egg and a tablespoonful of sugar, beaten to a stiff froth, and place in the oven a moment to brown lightly. Fresh fruit, strawberries, raspberries, chopped peaches, currants, cherries, or shredded oranges are equally as good as the marmalade or jelly for the top dressing, and may be used to vary this pudding in a num- ber of different ways. Canned fruits, if well drained from juice, especially DESSERTS. 323 apricots and peaches, are excellent for this purpose. A cocoanut custard pudding may be made of the above by flavoring the milk before using, with two tablespoonfuls of desiccated cocoanut. Another variety still may be made by adding to the first recipe half a cup of Zante currants and the. same of seedless raisins, or a half cup of finely shredded, tender citron. Bread and Fig Pudding. — Put together two cups of finely grated bread crumbs, two cups of milk, one cup of finely chopped figs previously steamed or cooked, one fourth cup of sugar, and lastly, two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a moderate oven till the custard is set. Bread and Apricot Pudding'. — Fill a pudding dish with alternate lay- ers of bread crumbs and canned apricots well drained from juice. Pour over it a custard made with two eggs, one half cup of sugar, and a pint of milk. Bake one half hour, or only until the custard is set. Canned peaches, to which a teaspoonful of lemon juice has been added after draining, may be used in place of apricots. Caramel Custard. — Turn one fourth of a cup of sugar into a stewpan, and stir it over the fire until it becomes liquid and brown. Scald a cup and a half of milk, and add the browned sugar. Beat two eggs thor- oughly, add to them one half cup of cold milk, and turn the mixture slowly, stirring constantly that no lumps form, into the scalding milk ; continue to stir until the custard thickens. Set away to cool, and serve in glasses. Carrot Pudding, — Take two cups of carrots, boiled tender and rubbed through a colander, one pint of milk, two thirds of a cup of sugar, and two well-beaten eggs. Flavor with vanilla, and having beaten all well together, turn into an earthen pudding dish ; set the dish in a pan of ■ hot water, and place in the oven. Bake only till the custard sets. Cocoanut Cornstarch Pudding. — Simmer a cupful of grated cocoanut in a quart of milk for twenty minutes. Strain the milk to remove the cocoanut, adding enough more milk to make a full quart. With a small portion of it braid smoothly one and one half tablespoonfuls of cornstarch or rice flour, and put the remainder in a saucepan over the fire. When the milk is boiling, add the cornstarch, stirring constantly until it thick- ens ; then remove from the fire and cool. Next add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a moderate oven, in a dish set in a pan of hot water, until the custard is well set. Cocoanut Custard. — Flavor a pint of milk with cocoanut, add a table- spoonful of sugar and two well-beaten eggs, and boil till set in a double boiler or a bowl set in a dish of boiling water. Richer custards may be made by using three or four eggs, but the richer the custard the more likely it is to curdle and become watery, as well as being less wholesome. 324 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Cocoannt Rice Custard. — Flavor one quart of milk quite strongly with cocoanut, as previously directed. Add to it one and one half cups of boiled rice, one cup of raisins, one half cup of sugar, and lastly three well-beaten eggs. Set the pudding dish in a pan of hot water, and bake till the custard is well set. Com Meal Pudding.— Heat a quart of milk lacking two thirds of a cupful, to boiling. Moisten nine tablespoonfuls of nice granulated corn meal with the two thirds of a cup of milk, and stir gradually into the boil- ing milk. Let it boil up until set, turn into a double boiler, and cook for an hour. Then add a tablespoonful of thick sweet cream, one half a cup "of molasses or sugar, a quart of cold milk, a little salt if desired, and lastly, two well-beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly. Pour into a pudding dish and bake one hour. A cup of currants or seeded raisins may be used to give variety. Corn Meal Pnddingr No. 2. — Crumble cold corn puffs or corn cake to make a cupful ; add a pint of sweet milk, three teaspoonfuls of sugar, the yolks of two eggs and the white of one, and bake slowly in a dish set inside a pan of hot water for an hour. Corn Meal and Fig Pudding. — Beat together a scant cup of best sifted corn meal with a cupful of molasses, and stir the mixture gradually into a quart of boiling milk. Cook ten or twelve minutes, or until well thick- ened, then set aside to cool. Add a cupful of finely chopped figs, one and two thirds cups of cold milk, part cream if it can be afforded, and when the mixture is cool, add two well-beaten eggs. Pour into a pudding dish and bake in a moderate, steady oven for three or more hours ; the longer the better. When the pudding has baked an hour, pour over it a cupful of cold milk. Do not stir the pudding, but allow the milk to soak in grad- ually. A pint of finely sliced or chopped sweet apples may be used in place of figs for variety, or if preferred, both may be omitted. Cornstarch Meringue. — Heat one and one half pints of milk to boiling, and then stir in gradually two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch which has been previously rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. When the starch has thickened, allow it partially to cool, and then add, stirring con- tinuously meanwhile, the yolks of two eggs which have been previously well beaten with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let the whole simmer for a minute or two longer, turn into a dish, meringue with the whites of the eggs, and when cold, dot with lumps of strawberry jelly. Cracked Wheat Pudding. — Beat two cups of cold steamed cracked wheat in two cups of rich milk until so thoroughly mingled that no lumps remain. Add one cup of canned sweet cherries well drained from juice, one half cup of sugar, and two eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately. Bake in a slow oven till the custard is set. DESSERTS. 325 Cup Custard. — Into four cups of milk stir the yolks of three eggs and one whole one well beaten. Add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, and strain the mixture into cups ; place these in a dripping pan full of hot water, grate a little lemon rind over the top of each, and bake in a moderate oven. If preferred, the milk may be first flavored with cocoanut. It is also better to have the milk nearly hot when stirring in the egg. Half a cupful of the milk should be reserved to add to the egg before turning into the heated portion. Farina Custard. — Flavor a quart of milk with cocoanut as directed on page 298. Cook two tablespoonfuls of farina in the flavored milk for twenty minutes, in a double boiler; then set aside to cool. When nearly cold, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Beat all together very thoroughly, and lastly stir in the whites of the eggs which have been previously beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in one dish set inside another filled with hot water, just long enough to set the custard. Serve cold. Farina Pudding. — Take a cup of cold cooked farina and soak it in four cups of milk until there are no lumps, or rub through a colander ; add two well-beaten eggs, one scant cup of sugar and one cup of raisins ; bake in a moderate oven until the custard is well set. Floating Island. — Make a custard of a pint of milk flavored with cocoanut, and the yolks of three eggs ; sweeten to taste, and steam in a double boiler. When done, turn into a glass dish. Have the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and drop for a few seconds on the top of a pan of scalding hot water, turning so that both sides may be alike coagulated but not hardened ; skim off, and put in islands on the top of the custard. When quite cold, drop bits of different colored jellies on the islands, and keep in a cool place till needed. Or put a spoonful of fruit jelly in the bottom of small glasses, and fill with the custard with a spoonful of the white on top. Fruit Custard. — Heat a pint of red raspberry, strawberry, or currant juice to boiling, and stir into it two even tablespoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold water. Stir constantly until thickened, then add half a cup of sugar, or less if the fruit juice has been sweetened ; take from the fire and stir in the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs, stir- ring all the time so that the hot mixture will coagulate the egg. Make a custard of a pint of milk, the yolks of the three eggs, and three table- spoonfuls of sugar. When done, set on the ice to cool. Dish in a glass dish when cold, placing the fruit mixture by spoonfuls on top, and serve. Wheatose Pudding. — Heat two cups of milk in a double boiler. When boiling, stir in one half cup of wheatose moistened with one cup of cold milk. Cook for an hour and a half in a double boiler, then re- 326 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. move from the fire and cool. Add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, three fourths of a cup of finely chopped apples, and one fourth of a cup of chopped raisins, and two well-beaten eggs. Bake three fourths of an hour in a moderate oven. Gronud Rice Pudding. — Simmer a few pieces of thinly cut lemon rind or half a cup of cocoauut, very slowly in a quart of milk for twenty min- utes, or until the milk is well flavored. Strain the milk through a fine strainer to remove the lemon rind or cocoanut, and put into a saucepan to boil. Mix four large tablespoonfuls of ground rice smooth with a little cold milk, and add to the boiling milk. Cook until the whole has thick- ened, then set aside to cool. When nearly cold, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a gentle oven in a dish placed in a pan of hot water, until the whole is lightly browned. Lemon Puddingy. — Grate the rind of one lemon ; soften one pint of bread crumbs in one quart of sweet milk, add the yolks of two eggs, and half a cup of sugar mixed with grated lemon rind. Bake twenty minutes. Beat to a froth the whites of the eggs, the juice of the lemon, and half a cup of sugar. Spread over the top, and return to the oven for five minutes. This may be baked in cups if preferred. Almond Cream Cup Custard. — Prepare a cream by thoroughly mingling two rounded tablespoonfuls of almond cream with one quart of water. Add one cup of sugar with which has been thoroughly mixed one tablespoonful of cornstarch, and the yolks of four eggs. Beat all together until thoroughly blended. Lastly add the beaten whites of the eggs and one teaspoonful each of lemon and vanilla. Turn into cups, place in the oven in a dripping pan half filled with water, and cook until well done and lightly browned on top. Granuto and Apple Pudding.* — Cut pared apples into eighths. Lay them in the bottom of a pudding dish, and sprinkle them with Granuto. Fill the dish with layers, and pour salted water over in the proportion of one- third cup of water to a scant three-fourths cup of Granuto. Cover, and bake in a moderate oven until the apples are tender. Serve with dairy or nut cream, with plain or sweet fruit, custard, fig or date pulp, or egg sauce. Peaches, pears, or berries may be substituted for the apple. Cream Whip with Granose Flakes.— Flavor whipped cream with vanilla, sprinkle with malted nuts, pile the cream in a dish, cover with granose flakes. Macaroni Pudding. — Break sufficient macaroni to make a pint in inch lengths, put into a double boiler, turn over it three pints of milk, and cook until tender. Turn into a pudding dish, add a pint of cold milk, two thirds of a cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one egg, and the yolks of two others well beaten. Bake from twenty to thirty minutes. When done, DESSERTS. 327 cool a little, spread the top with some mashed fresh berries or grape marma- lade, and meringu6 with the whites of the eggs and a tablespoonf ul of sugar. Molded Kice or Snow Balls. — Steam a pint of well-cleaned rice until tender, as directed on page gg, and turn into cups previously wet in cold water, to mold. When perfectly cold, place in a glass dish, and pour over them a cold custard made of a pint of milk, half a cup of sugar, a tea- spoonful of cornstarch, and one egg. Or, if preferred, the rice balls may be served in individual dishes with the custard sauce, or with a dressing of fruit juice. Orangfe Float. — Heat one quart of water, the juice of two lemons, and one and one half cupfuls of sugar. When boiling, stir into it four table- spoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a very little water. Cook until the whole is thickened and clear. When cool, stir into the mixture five nice oranges which have been sliced, and freed from seeds and all the white portions. Meringue, and serve cold. Orangre Custard. — Turn a pint of hot milk over two cups of stale bread crumbs and let them soak until well softened ; add the yolks of two eggs, and beat all together until perfectly smooth ; add a little of the grated rind and the juice of three sweet oranges, and sugar to taste. Lastly add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, turn into cups, which place in a moderate oven in a pan of hot water, and bake twenty minutes, or until the custard is well set but not watery. Orange Pnddlng. — Pare and slice six sweet Florida oranges, remov- ing the seeds and all the white skin and fibers. Place in the bottom of a glass dish. Make a custard by stirring two tablespoonfuls of corn- starch braided with a little milk into a pint of boiling milk, and when thickened, adding gradually, stirring constantly meanwhile, one egg and the yolk of a second egg well beaten with pne fourth cup of sugar. When par- tially cool, pour over the oranges. Whip the white of the second egg to a stiff froth with one fourth cup of sugar which has been flavored by rub- bing over some orange peel, and meringue the top of the pudding. Fresh strawberries, raspberries, or peaches may be substituted for oranges in making this dessert, if preferred. Peach Meringne. — To every pint of stewed or canned peaches, sweet- ened to taste, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. Bake in a deep pud- ding dish fifteen minutes, then cover with the whites of the two eggs beaten till very light with two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Brown in the oven, and serve cold with whipped cream. For peaches, substitute any other stewed fruit desired. Picnic Pudding'. — Thicken a pint of strawberry or raspberry juice, sweetened to taste, with two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, as for Fruit Custard. Turn into the bottom of cups previously wet with cold 328 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. water, or a large mold, as preferred. In a second dish heat to boiling a pint of milk, flavored with cocoanut, to which a tablespoonful of sugar has been added. Stir into it two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, and cook thoroughly. When done, cool slightly and turn into the molds on the top of the pink portion, which should be sufficiently cool so that it will not mix. A third layer may be added by cooking two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch and one of sugar, rubbed smooth in a little milk, in a pint of boiling milk, and stirring in, just as it is taken from the stove, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Plain Cornstarcb Pudding. — Heat to boiling a pint and a half of milk, with a few bits of the yellow rind of a lemon to flavor it. While the milk is heating, rub four large spoonfuls of cornstarch to a cream with half a cup of cold milk ; beat well together the yolks of three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and half a cup of cold milk, and whip the whites of the eggs to a stifle froth. When the milk is actively boiling, remove the bits of lemon rind with a skimmer, and stir in the starch mixture ; stir constantly and boil three or four minutes until the starch is well cooked ; then add gradually, stirring well meanwhile, the yolks and sugar. Remove from the fire, and stir the beaten whites lightly through the whole. Serve with a dressing of fruit juice or fruit syrup ; if in the season of fresh ber- ries, the pudding may be dressed with a few spoonfuls of mashed straw- berries, raspberries, or currants. Plain Custard. — Heat a pint of milk to boiling, and stir in a table- spoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little milk ; let the milk and starch boil together till they thicken ; then cool and add one well-beaten egg and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cook in the oven in a dish set inside another iilled with hot water, or in a double boiler. The milk may be previously flavored with orange, lemon, or cocoanut. Prune Pudding. — Heat two and one half cups of milk to boiling, then stir in gradually a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch which has been rubbed smooth in a little cold milk ; let this boil and thicken for a minute, then remove from the fire. When cool, add three well-beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a cupful of prunes which have been stewed, then drained of all juice, the stones removed, and the prunes chopped fine. Pour into a pudding dish and bake twenty minutes. Serve with or without cream. Prune Wliip. — Sift through a colander some stewed sweet California prunes which have been thoroughly drained from juice, and from which the stones have been removed. Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, and add two cups of the sifted prunes; beat all together thoroughly; turn into a pudding dish, and brown in the oven fifteen minutes. Serve cold, with a little cream or custard for dressing. Almond sauce also makes an excellent dressing. DESSERTS. ' 329 Rice Apple Custard Pudding. — Pare, and remove the cores without dividing from a sufficient number of apples to cover the bottom of a two- quart pudding dish. Fill the cavities of the apples with a little grated lemon rind and sugar, and put them into the oven with a tablespoonful of water on the bottom of the dish. Cover, and steam till the apples are tender, but not fallen to pieces. Then pour over them a custard made with two cups of boiled rice, a quart of milk, half a cup of sugar, and two eggs. Rice Custard Pudding:. — Take one and one half cups of nicely steamed rice, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a pint of milk ; heat to boiling in a saucepan. Then stir in very carefully the yolk of one egg and one whole egg, previously well beaten together with a few spoonfuls of milk reserved for the purpose. Let the whole boil up till thickened, but not longer, as the custard will whey and separate. When partly cool, flavor with a little vanilla or lemon, turn into a glass dish, and meringue with the white of the second egg beaten to a stiff froth. Cold steamed rice may be used by soaking it in hot milk until every grain is separate. Rice Snow. — Into a quart of milk heated to boiling, stir five table- spoonfuls of rice flour previously braided with a very little cold milk ; add one half cup of sugar. Let the whole boil up together till well cooked and thickened ; then remove from the stove, and stir in lightly the beaten whites of four eggs. Mold, and serve cold with foam sauce. Rice Snow witli Jelly. — Steam or bake a teacupful of best rice in milk until the grains are tender. Pile it up on a dish roughly. When cool, lay over it squares of jelly. Beat the whites of two eggs and one third of a cup of sugar to a stiff froth, and pile like snow over the rice. Serve with cream sauce. Rice witll Eggs. — Steam rice as previously directed, and when suffi- ciently cooked, stir into half of it while hot, the yolks of one or two eggs well beaten with a little sugar. Into the other half, the whites of the eggs, sweetened and beaten to a stiff froth, may be lightly stirred while the rice is still hot enough to set the eggs. Serve with the yellow half in the bottom of the dish, and the white part piled on top covered with whipped cream flavored with lemon or vanilla. Snow Pudding. — Heat one half pint each of water and milk together, to boiling, stir into this a tablespoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, and cook for five minutes. Cool partially and add the whites of two well-beaten eggs. Turn into molds and set in the ice box to cool. Serve with a cream made by stirring into a half pint of boiling milk the yolks of two eggs, a teaspoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a lit- tle cold milk, and half a cup of sugar. Cook until well thickened. Cool and flavor with a Httle lemon or vanilla. Or, if preferred, serve with a dressing of fruit juice. 330 SCIENCE- IN THE KITCHEN. Steamed Cnstard. — Heat a pint of milk, with which has been well beaten two eggs and one third of a cup of sugar, in a double boiler until well thickened. When done, turn into a glass dish, and grate a liftle of the yellow rind of lemon over the top to flavor. If desired to have the custard in cups, remove from the fire when it begins to thicken, turn Into cups, and finish in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water. Chocolate Macaroons.*— Take one cup of the crumb of raised white bread, seven tablespoonfuls of health chocolate, three fourths of a cupful' of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of vanilla and the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. Drop on oiled paper and bake. While hot sprinkle with very finely pulyerized desiccated cocoanut. Cherry Casserole.*— Line a teacup with a thin layer of well-cooked rice. Make a marmalade of cherries by passing cooked cherries through a colander and thickening with a little cornstarch; put four tablespoonfuls of this mixture in the rice mold and cover over with rice. Let it stand until perfectly cold. If the rice is warm and care be taken in forming the mold the cherries will be completely hidden and the rice mold will be intact. Serve with cherry dressing or beaten meltose. Pop Com Pudding. — Take a scant pint of the pop corn which is ground and put up in boxes, or if not available, freshly popped corn, rolled fine, is just as good. Add to it three cups of new milk, one half cup of sugar, two whole eggs and the yolk of another, well beaten. Bake in a pudding dish placed inside another filled with hot water, till the custard is set. Cover with a meringue made of the remaining white of egg, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a sprinkling of the pop corn. Sagro Custard Pudding. — Put one half cup of sago and a quart of rich milk into the inner cup of a double boiler, or a basin set inside a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer until the sago has thickened the milk and become perfectly transparent. Allow it to cool, then add a cup of sugar, two well-beaten eggs, and a little of the grated rind of a lemon. Turn into a pudding dish, and bake only till the custard has set. Sago and Fruit Custard Pudding. — Soak six tablespoonfuls of sago in just enough water to cover it, for twenty minutes. Meanwhile pare and remove the cores from half a dozen or more tart apples, and fill the cavi- ties with a mixture of grated lemon rind and sugar. Place the apples in the bottom of a pudding dish, with a tablespoonful of water ; cover, and set in the oven to bake. Put the soaked sago with a quart of milk into a double boiler. Let it cook until the Sago is clear and thick ; then add three fourths of a cup of sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Pour the sago custard over the apples, which should be baked tender but not mushy. Put the pudding dish in the oven in a pan of hot water, and bake till the custard is well set. Serve cold. DESSERTS. 331 Snowball Castard. — Flavor a pint of milk by steeping in it three or four slices of the yellow rind of a lemon for twenty minutes or more. Skim out the rind ; let the milk come to the boiling point, and drop into it the well-beaten whites of two eggs, in tablespoonfuls, turning each one over carefully, allowing them to remain only long enough to become coagulated but not hardened, and then place the balls upon a wire sieve to drain. Afterward stir into the scalding milk the yolks of the eggs and one whole one well beaten, together with two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Stir until it thickens. Pour this custard into a glass dish, and lay the white balls on top. Tapioca Custard. — Soak one third of a cup of pearl tapioca over night in sufficient water to cover. When ready to prepare the custard, drain off the water if any remain, and add one quart of milk to the tapioca ; place in a double boiler and cook until transparent; then add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs or the yolks of two and one whole one, mixed with three fourths of a cup of sugar. Let it cook a few minutes, just long enough for the custard to thicken and no more, or it will whey and be spoiled ; flavor with a little vanilla and turn into a glass dish. Cover the top with the whites beaten stiffly with a tablespoonful of sugar, and dot with bits of jelly, or colored sugar prepared by mixing sugar with cran- berry or raspberry juice and allowing it to dry. For variety, the cus- tard may be flavored with grated lemon rind and a tablespoonful of lemon juice whipped up with the whites of the eggs, or other flavor may be dispensed with, and the meringue flavored by beating a table- spoonful of quince jelly with the whites of the eggs. Tapioca Pudding.— Soak one third of a cupful of tapioca over night in just enough water to cover. In the morning, add to it one quart of milk, and cook in a double boiler until transparent. Add three eggs well beaten, one half cup of sugar, one half cup of chopped raisins, and a very little chopped citron. Bake till the custard is set. Serve warm or cold as preferred. Tennicelli Pudding. — Flavor two and one half cups of milk with lemon as directed on page 299. Drop into it, when boiUng, four ounces of vermicelli, crushing it lightly with one hand while sprinkling it in, and stir to keep it from gathering in lumps. Let it cook gently in a double boiler, stirring often until it is tender and very thick. Then pour it into a pudding dish, let it cool, and add a tablespoonful of rather thick sweet cream if you have it (it does very well without), half a cup of sugar, and lastly, two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a moderately hot oven till browned over the top. Wlute Custard. — Beat together thoroughly one cup of milk, the whites of two eggs, one tablespoonful of sugar, and one and one half tablespoon- 332 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. fuls of almondine. Turn into cups and steam or bake until the custard is set. White Custard No. 2. — Cook a half cup of farina in a quart of milk in a double boiler, for an hour. Remove from the stove, and allow it to be- come partially cool, then add one half cup of sugar, the vifhites of two eggs, and one half the yolk of one egg. Turn into a pudding dish, and bake twenty minutes or until the custard is well set. STEAMED PUDDING. The following precautions are necessary to be observed in steaming puddings or desserts of any sort : — 1. Have the water boiling rapidly when the pudding is placed in the steamer, and keep it constantly boiling. 2. Replenish, if needed, with boiling water, never with cold. 3. Do not open the steamer and let in the air upon the pudding, until it is done. RECIPES. Batter Pudding. — Beat four eggs thoroughly ; add to them a pint of milk, and if desired, a little salt. Sift a teacupful of flour and add it grad- ually to the milk and eggs, beating lightly the while. Then pour the whole mixture through a fine wire strainer into a small pail with cover, in which it can be steamed. This straining is imperative. The cover of the pail should be tight fitting, as the steam getting into the pudding spoils it. Place the pail in a kettle of boiling water, and do not touch or move it until the pudding is done. It takes exactly an hour to cook. If moved or jarred during the cooking, it will be likely to fall. Slip it out of the pail on a hot dish, and serve with cream sauce. A double boiler with tightly fitting cover is excellent for cooking this pudding. Bread and Fruit Custard. — Soak a cupful of finely grated bread crumbs in a pint of rich milk heated to scalding. Add two thirds of a cup of sugar, and the grated yellow rind of half a lemon. When cool, add two eggs well beaten. Also two cups of canned apricots or peaches drained of juice, or, if preferred, a mixture of one and one half cups of chopped apples, one half cup of raisins, and a little citron. Turn into a pudding dish, and steam in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water for two hours. The amount of sugar necessary will vary somewhat accord- ing to the fruit used. DESSERTS. 333 Date Pudding. — Turn a cup of hot milk over two cups of stale bread crumbs, and soak until softened ; add one half cup of cream and one cup of chopped and stoned dates. Mix all thoroughly together. Put in a china dish and steam for three hours. Serve hot with lemon sauce. Rice Balls. — Steam one cup of rice till tender. Wring pudding cloths about ten inches square out of hot water, and spread the rice one third of an inch thick over the cloth. Put a stoned peach or apricot from which the skin has been removed, in the center, filling the cavity in each half of the fruit with rice. Draw up the cloth until the rice smoothly envelops the fruit, tie, and steam ten or fifteen minutes. Remove the cloth carefully, turn out into saucers, and serve with sauce made from peach or apricot juice. Easy-cookmg tart apples may also be- used. Steam them thirty minutes, and serve with sugar and cream. Steamed Bread Cnstard. — Cut stale bread in slices, removing hard crusts. Oil a deep pudding mold, and sprinkle the bottom and sides with Zante currants ; over these place a layer of the slices of bread, sprinkled with currants ; add several layers, sprinkling each with the currants in the same manner. Cover with a custard made by beating together three or four eggs, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one quart of milk. Put the pudding in a cool place for three hours ; at the end of that time, steam one and a quarter hours. Serve with mock cream flavored with vanilla. Apple marmalade may be used to spread between the slices in place of currants, if preferred. Steamed Fig Pudding. — Moisten two cupfuls of finely grated Graham bread crumbs with half a cup of thin sweet cream. Mix into it a heaping cupful of finely chopped fresh figs, and a quarter of a cup of sugar. Add lastly a cup of sweet milk. Turn all into a pudding dish, and steam about two and one half hours. Serve as soon as done, with a little cream for dressing, or with orange or lemon sauce. PASTRY AND CAKE. So much has been said and written about the dietetic evils of these articles that their very names have become almost synonymous with indigestion and dyspepsia. That they are prolific causes of this dire malady cannot be denied, and it is doubtless due to two reasons ; first, because they are generally compounded of ingredients which are in themselves unwhole- some, and rendered doubly so by their combination ; and sec- ondly, because tastes have become so perverted that an excess 334 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. of these articles is consumed in preference to more simple and nutritious food. As has been elsewhere remarked, foods containing an ex- cess of fat, as do most pastries and many varieties of cake, are exceedingly difficult of digestion, the fat undergoing in the stomach no changes which answer to the digestion of other elements of food, and its presence interferes with the action of the gastric juice upon other elements. In consequence, di- gestion proceeds very slowly, if at all, and the delay often occasions fermentative and putrefactive changes in the entire contents of the stomach. It is the indigestibility of fat, and this property of delaying the digestion of other foods, chiefly that render pastry and cakes so deleterious to health. We do not wish to be understood as in sympathy with that class of people who maintain that dyspepsia is a disciplinary means of grace, 'when, after having made the previous state- ment, we proceed to present recipes for preparing the very articles we have condemned. Pie and cake are not necessa- rily utterly unwholesome ; and if prepared in a simple manner, may be partaken of in moderation by persons with good di- gestion. Nevertheless, they lack the wholesomeness of more simple foods, and we most fully believe that would women supply their tables with perfectly light, sweet, nutritious bread and plenty of fruit, the continual demand for cakes and pies would cease. However, if pies and cakes must needs be, make them as simple as possible. General Suggestions for Making Pies. — Always pre- pare the filling for pies before making the crust, if the filling is to be cooked in the crust. Have all the material for the crust on the table, measured and in readiness, before begin- ning to put together. Follow some of the simple recipes given in these pages. Have all the material cold, handle the least possible to make it into a mass, and do not knead at all. When the crust is ready, roll it out quickly to about one half inch in thickness, then fold up like a jelly roll, and cut DESSERTS. 335 from the end only sufficient for one crust at a time. Lay this, tlie flat side upon the board, and roll evenly in every direction, until scarcely more than an eighth of an inch in thickness, and somewhat larger than the baking plate, as it will shrink when lifted from the board. Turn one edge over the rolling pin, and carefully lift it onto the plate. If there is to be an upper crust, roll that in the same manner, make a cut in the center to allow the steam to escape, fill the pie, slightly rounding it in the center, and lift on the upper crust ; press both edges lightly together ; then, lifting the pie in the left hand, deftly trim away all over- hanging portions of crust with a sharp knife; ornament the edge if desired, and put at once into the oven, which should be in readiness at just the right temperature, a rather moder- ate oven being best for pies. The under crust of lemon, pumpkin, custard, and very juicy fruit pies, filled before baking, is apt to become saturated and softened with the liquid mixture, if kept for any length of time after baking. This may be prevented in a measure by glazing the crust, after it is rolled and fitted on the plate, with the beaten white of an egg, and placing in the oven just a moment to harden the egg before filling ; or if the pie is one of fruit, sprinkle the crust with a little flour and sugar, brushing the two together with the hand before adding the filling. During the baking, the flour and melted sugar will adhere together, tending to keep the juice from contact with the crust. Pies are more wholesome if the crusts are baked separately and filled for use as needed. This is an especially satisfactory way to make pies of juicy fruit, as it does away largely with the saturated under crusts, and the flavor of the fruit can be made by simply fitting the crust to the outside of the pie tin, pricking to prevent its blistering while baking, and afterward filling when needed for the table. For pies with two crusts, fit the under crust to the plate, and fill with clean pieces of old white linen laid in lightly to support the upper 336 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. crust. When baked, slip the pie on a plate, lift off the upper crust, take out the pieces of cloth, and just before serving, fill with fruit, which should be previously prepared. Canned peaches filled into such a crust make a delicious pie. Strawberries, cherries, gooseberries, and other juicy fruits, that lose so much of their flavor in baking, may be lightly scalded, the juice thickened a little with flour if desired, sweetened to taste, and filled into such a crust. An excellent pie may be made in this manner from apples, stewed carefully so as to keep the slices whole, sweetened to taste, and flavored with lemon, orange, or grated pineapple. One pineapple will be sufficient for four pies. Fresh fruit for filling may be used without cooking, if desired. If desired, several crusts may be baked and put away unfilled. When needed, the crusts may be placed for a few minutes in a hot oven until heated through, then filled with freshly prepared fruit. In preparing material for custard or pumpkin pies, if the milk used be hot, the pies will be improved and the time of baking be considerably shortened. Tin or granite-ware plates are preferable to earthen ones for pies, as they bake better on the bottom. The perforated pans are superior in some respects. No greasing is needed ; simply rub them well with flour. The time required for bak- ing pies varies from one half to three fourths of an hour. The dampers should be so adjusted as to bake the bottom crust first. After baking, remove at once to heated earthen plates, or set the tins upon small supports, so that the air can circulate underneath them. RECIPES. Paste for Pies.— Sift together equal parts of Graham meal and white flour (Graham flour will do if the meal is not obtainable, but the meal will produce a more crisp and tender crust), and wet with very cold, thin sweet cream. Have the flour also as cold as possible, since the colder the material, the more crisp the paste ; mix together very quickly into a rather stiff dough. Do not knead at all, but gather the fragments lightly together, roll out at once, fill and bake quickly, since much of the light- ness of the crust depends upon the dispatch with which the pie is gotten Q^^^^^l ^^^^3 . ■.■ --- V.;;:- ." .^'.■u-;i5^'^-;^-;-T^ ^^ ^ ^.„.,^„..,i„*S8 :. "^'^- CRUST SHELLS FOR FILLING. LINEN PIE. GRANOLA PIE CRUST. DESSERTS. 337 into the oven after the materials are thrown together. If for any reason it is necessary to defer the baking, place the crust in the ice-chest till needed. Corn Meal Crnst. — Equal parts of sifted white corn meal and flour, mixed together lightly with rather thin sweet cream which has been set in the ice-chest until very cold, makes a very good crust. Granola Crnst. — For certain pies requiring an under crust only, the prepared granola manufactured by the Sanitarium Food Co. makes a superior crust. For one medium-sized pie, take three fourths of a cup of granola, mix, if desired, a little salt with it, and pour over it quickly from one fourth to one third of a cup of rich milk or thin cream, just enough to moisten it slightly. If too moist, the crust will be soggy. Turn immedi- ately into the pie tin, and spread and press evenly with a spoon over the bottom and sides of the tin. A teaspoon is best for the sides, and press- ing the finger against the other side of the edge, as you are pressing with the spoon, makes the edge firmer. Do not allow the crust to come over the edge of the tin. Fill with fruit pulp prepared from nicely stewed dried apple, apricot, peach, or prune, or with a lemon filling prepared as directed for lemon pie (page 340). Stewed cranber- ries, grape, or peach may be rubbed through a colander, thickened if necessary with a little cornstarch, and baked in a granola crust. A cream pie may be baked in this crust if the filling be first cooked as per recipe given below. After filling, bake ten or fifteen minutes in a quick oven. Paste for Tart Shells. — Take one half cup of rather thin sweet cream, which has been placed on ice until very cold ; add to it the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, and whip all together briskly for ten minutes. Add sufficient white flour to roll. Cut into the required shape, bake quickly, but do not brown. Fill after baking. This paste, rolled thin and cut into shapes with a cooky cutter, one half of them baked plain for under crusts, the other half ornamented for tops by cutting small holes with a thimble or some fancy mold, put together with a layer of some sim- ple fruit jelly between them, makes a most attractive-looking dessert. It is likewise very nice baked in little patty pans, and afterward filled with apple or peach marmalade, or any of the following fillings : — Cream Filling. — One cup of rich milk (part cream if it can be afforded) heated to boiling. Into this stir one scant tablespoonful of flour previously braided smooth with a little cold milk. Add to this the well-beaten yolk of one egg and one tablespoonful of sugar. Turn this mixture into the hot milk and stir until it thickens. Flavor with a little grated lemon rind, vanilla, or, if preferred, flavor the milk with cocoanut before using. Fill the tart shells, and meringue with the white of the egg beaten stiff with a tablespoonful of sugar. 33^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. trrape Tart. — Into one pint of canned or fresh grape juice, when boil- ing, stir two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch braided with a Httle water, and cook for five minutes. Sweeten to taste, and fill a baked crust. lemon Filling.— Into one cup of boiling water stir two level tablespoon- fuls of cornstarch previously braided smooth with the juice of a large lemon. Cook until it thickens, then add one half cup of sugar and a little grated yellow rind of the lemon. Tapioca Filling. — Soak one tablespoonful of tapioca over night in one cup of water ; mash and stir the tapioca, simmer gently until clear and thick, adding enough water to cook it well ; add half a cup of white sugar and a tablespoonful each of lemon and orange juice. If desired, a Httle raspberry or currant juice may be added to make the jelly of a pink color. Apple Custard Pie. — Stew good dried apples till perfectly tender and there remains but very little juice. Rub through a colander. For each pie use one cup of the sifted apples, one and a half cups of rich milk, two eggs, five tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a little grated lemon rind for flavor- ing. Bake with under crust only. Stewed fresh apples, beaten smooth or rubbed through a colander, can be used if preferred. The eggs may be omitted, and one half cup more of the sifted apples, with more sugar, may be used instead. Vegetable Mince.* — Mix together five cnpfuls of chopped tart apple, five cupfuls of minced protose, one cupful of prune marmalade, two cupfuls of freshly boiled apple juice, one cupful o£ raisins, one cupful of rolled nut meats, one cupful of meltose, one-half cupful of sugar. Cook gently for three hours. If desired, a tablespoonful of pure olive oil may be added. A cupful of malted nuts used in place of rolled nuts is an improvement. The quantities given are sufficient for five pies. Nut Mince for Pies.*— One pound of protose, chopped, three pints of chopped tart apples, three cups of seeded raisins, chopped, one-half cup of lemon juice, one and one-half cups of New Orleans molasses (or one-half cup of nicely flavored dark molasses, one cup of brown sugar, one-fourth cup of granulated sugar), one or two teaspoonfuls of salt, and two teaspoon- fuls of ground coriander seed. When New Orleans molasses is used, the addition of a cup of strong Caramel Cereal gives a rich flavor and color. This filling served with granose flakes makes a nice dessert. Cocoannt Pie. — Flavor a pint of milk with two tablespoonfuls of desic- cated, or finely grated fresh cocoanut according to directions on page 298 ; strain, and add enough fresh milk to make a pint in all. Add three table- spoonfuls of sugar, heat, and as the milk comes to a boil, add a table- spoonful of cornstarch rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Boil for a minute or two till the cornstarch thickens the milk ; theii remove from the stove. Allow it to get cold, and then stir in one well-beaten egg ; bak< DESSERTS. 339 in an under crust. Tie a tablespoonful of desiccated cocoanut in a clean cloth, and pound it as fine as flour ; mix it with a tablespoonful of sugar and the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth. When the pie is done, spread this over the top, and brown in the oven for a moment only. Cocoanut Pie No. 2. — Steep one half cup of cocoanut in a pint of milk for one half hour. Strain out the cocoanut and add sufficient fresh milk to make a pint. Allow it to become cold, then add a quarter of a cup of sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Bake with an under crust only. When done, the top may be covered with a meringue the same as in the preced- ing recipe. Cream Pie. — For one pie beat together one egg, one half cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of flour, and two cups of rich milk. Bake in one crust. Cranberry Pie. — Stew a quart of cranberries until broken in a pint of boiling water. Rub through a colander to remove the skins, add two cups of sugar and one half cup of sifted flour. Bake with under crust only. Dried Apple Pie. — Stew good dried apples till perfectly tender in as small a quantity of water as possible. When done, rub through a colan- der ; they should be about the consistency of fruit jam ; if not, a little flour may be added. Sweeten to taste, fill under crusts with the mix- ture, and bake. If lemon flavor is liked, a few pieces of the yellow rind may be added to the apples a little while before they are tender. If the apples are especially tasteless, lemon juice or some sour apple jelly should be added after rubbing through the colander. The crusts may first be baked, and filled with the mixture when needed ; in which case the sauce should be simmered lightly till of the desired consistency. The top may be ornamented with strips or rings of crust, if desired. Dried Apple Pie with Raisins. — Rub a quart of well-stewed dried apples through a colander, add a cupful of steamed raisins, sugar to sweeten, and bake with two crusts. This is sufficient for two pies. Dried Apricot Pie. — Stew together one third dried apricots and two thirds dried apples or peaches. When soft, rub through a colander, add sugar to sweeten, and if very juicy, stew again until the juice is mostly evaporated ; then beat until light and bake in a granola crust. Farina Pie. — Cook one fourth cup of farina in a double boiler for an hour in three cups of rich milk. Allow it to become cool, then add one half cup of sugar, the yolks of two eggs, and a little grated lemon rind. Bake with under crust only. Meringue the top with the white of the egg beaten to a stiff froth with one tablespoonful of sugar and a little grated lemon rind for flavoring. The quantity given is sufficient for two small pies. Fruit Pies. — Apples, peaches, and all small fruits and berries may be made into palatable pies without rich crusts or an excess of sugar, or the 340 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. addition of unwholesome spices and flavorings. Bake the crust sepa- rately, and fill when needed with prepared fruit ; or, fill with the fruit, using only sufficient sugar to sweeten ; add no spices, and bake quickly. Prepare apples for pies by paring, coring, and dividing in eighths. Peaches are best prepared in a similar manner. Fill crusts in which the fruit is to be baked quite full and slightly heaping in the center. If flavoring is desired, let it be that of some other fruit. For apple pies, a teaspoonful or two of pineapple juice, a little grated lemon or orange peel, or a little strawberry or quince syrup, may be used for flavoring. For pies made of apples, peaches, and fruits which are not very juicy, add a tablespoon- ful or so of water or fruit juice ; but for very juicy fruits and berries, dredge the under crust with a tablespoonful of sugar and a little flour mixed together before filling, or stir a spoonful of flour into the fruit so that each berry or piece may be separately floured. Grape Jelly Pie. — Cook perfectly ripe, purple grapes; rub them through a colander to remove the seeds and skins. Return the pulp to the fire and thicken with rice flour or cornstarch, to the consistency of thick cream or jelly, and sweeten to taste. Bake with under crust only. Fruit and Nut Pie.* — For the crust use one and one-fourth cups each of almond meal and pastry flour, salt, and one-third cup of ice water. Mix and roll out without kneading. Mix together one-half cup of sugar and one-third cup of almond meal. Sprinkle half over the bottom crust before filling. Fill with sliced tart apples, dropping into the spaces fine flavored raisins. Sprinkle the remainder of the sugar and meal over the fruit. Add the top crust and bake. Lemon Pie. — Take four tablespoonf uls of lemon juice ( one large lemon or two small ones will yield about this quantity ), the grated yellow por- tion only of the rind of half a lemon, and two thirds of a cup of sugar. Beat the lemon juice and sugar together. Braid two level tablespoon- fuls of cornstarch with as little water as possible, and pour over it, stirring constantly, one half pint of boiling water, to thicken the starch. Add the lemon and sugar to the starch, and let it cool ; then stir in the yolks of two eggs and half the white of one, well beaten together. Beat thoroughly, pour into a deep crust, and bake. When done, cover with the remaining whites of the eggs, beaten with one and a half tablespoon- fuls of sugar, and brown lightly in the oven. Lemon Meringue Custard. — Heat two cups of milk to boiling, add a tablespoonful of cornstarch well braided with a little cold milk ; let the whole simmer till thickened, stirring constantly. Allow it to cool, add one third of a cup of sugar and the beaten yolks of two eggs. Bake in an under crust, and cover with a meringue made of the whites of the eggs DESSERTS. 341 beaten to a stiff-froth with two tablespoonfuls of sugar mixed with grated leaioa peel. If liked, a spoonful of lemon juice may be added, a few drops at a time, during the beating of the meringue. One-Crust Peach Pie. — Pare and remove the stones from ripe, nice flavored peaches ; stew till soft in the smallest quantity of water possible without burning. Rub through a colander, or beat smooth with a large spoon. Add sugar as required. Bake with one crust. If the peach sauce is evaporated until quite dry, it is very nice baked in a granola crust. When done, meringue with the whites of two eggs whipped stiff with two tablespoonfuls of sugar. The flavor is improved by adding by degrees to the egg while whipping, a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Re- turn to the oven and brown lightly. Serve cold. Canned peaches or stewed dried peaches may be used in place of the fresh ones. In using the dried peaches, carefully examme and wash; soak them over night in cold water, and stew them in the same water until soft enough to rub through the colander. For each pie, add two tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, and sufficient sugar to sweeten ; too much sugar destroys the flavor of the fruit. Evaporated peaches, soaked over night and stewed carefully until tender, then removed from the syrup, which may be sweetened and boiled until thick and rich and afterward turned over the peaches, makes a delicious pie. Bake in one crust, with or without a meringue. Orange Pie. — Rub smooth a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch in three tablespoonfuls of water ; pour over it a cup of boiling water, and cook until clear, stirring frequently that no lumps form. Add one cupful of sour orange juice, a little grated rind, and the juice of one lemon, with sugar to taste. Lastly, when quite cool, stir in the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Bake with under crust only. Meringue the top when baked, with the whites of the eggs well beaten with a tablespoonful of sugar, and a very little grated orange peel sprinkled over it. Peach Custard Pie. — Cover a pie plate with an under crust. Take fresh peaches, pare, halve, and stone them, and place a layer, hollow side up, in the pie. Prepare a custard with one egg, one cup of milk, and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. Pour the custard over the peaches, and bake. If the quantity given will not entirely cover the peaches, a little more must be prepared. Canned peaches which are not broken can be used instead of fresh ones. The pieces should be drained free from juice, and less sugar used. Prune Pie. — Prepare and cook sweet California prunes as -directed for Prune Marmalade. Fill an under crust and bake. The top may be or- namented with strips of crust or pastry leaves ; or, if desired, may be meringued with the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth with two 342 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. tablespoonfuls of sugar and a little grated lemon peel. This pie is excel- lent baked in a granola crust. Pumpkin Pie. — To prepare the pumpkin, cut into halves, remove the seeds, divide into moderately small pieces, and bake in the oven until thoroughly done. Then scrape from the shell, rub through a colander, and proceed as follows : For one and one third pints of the cooked pump- kin use one quart of hot, rich, sweet milk. Add one half cup of sugar and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, beat well together, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and beat thoroughly. Line the tins with a stiff cream paste, fill, and bake in a moderate oven till the pies are barely firm in the center, or till the custard is well set. Pumpkin Pie No. 2. — For each pie desired, take one half pint of baked pumpkin, a pint of rich milk, one third of a cup of sugar, and two eggs. Mix the sugar and eggs, add the pumpkin, and lastly the milk, which should be hot, and beat all together with an egg beater until very light. Fill the crust, and bake slowly. Pnmpldn Pie witliout Eggs. — Prepare the pumpkin as previously di- rected. For two medium-sized pies, heat a pint and a half of milk in a farina kettle, and when scalding, stir into it two scant tablespoonfuls of white flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Cook, stirring often, until it thickens. Add half a cup of sugar, or a little less of syrup, to a pint and a half of the sifted pumpkin, and after beating well together, stir this into the hot milk. Bake in an under crust ; or, for three pies, take one quart and a cupful of pumpkin, three fourths of a cup of sugar, tv/o thirds of a cup of best New Orleans molasses, and three pints of hot milk. Beat all together thoroughly. Line deep plates with a cream crust, and bake an hour and a half in a moderate oven. Simple Custard Pie. — For one pie, take one pint of milk, two well- beaten eggs, one third of a cup of sugar, and a little grated lemon rind for flavor. Bake in an under crust. If eggs are scarce, a very good pie can be made by using only one egg, and a tablespoonful of cornstarch, with the above proportions of milk and sugar ; in which case, heat the milk to scalding, stir in the cornstarch, and cook till thickened ; cool, and then add the well-beaten egg. If preferred, the crust may be baked before fill- ing, and the custard steamed, meanwhile. Squash Pie. — Squash prepared as directed for pumpkin, and flavored with rose water, makes an excellent pie. Or, for each pie desired, take one pint of rich milk (part cream if it can be afforded ), add one cup of nicely baked mealy squash which has been rubbed through a colander, one third of a cup of sugar, and two well-beaten eggs. Beat all together thoroughly,. Bake in a deep pan slowly and carefully until firm. DESSERTS. 343 Squash Pie without Eggs. — Bake the squash in the shell ; when done, remove with a spoon and mash through a colander. For one pie, take eight tablespoonfuls of the squash, half a cup of sugar, and one and one third cups of boiling milk. Pour the milk slowly over the squash, beating rapidly meanwhile to make the mixture light. Bake in one crust. Sweet-apple Custard Pie. — Into one pint of new milk, grate three ripe sweet apples ( Golden Sweets are excellent ) ; add two well-beaten eggs, and sugar to taste. Bake with under crust only. Sweet Potato Pie. — Bake sufficient sweet potatoes to make a pint of pulp when rubbed through a colander ; add a pint of rich milk, a scant cup of sugar, salt if desired, the yolks of two eggs, and a little grated lemon rind for flavor. Bake with under crust. When done, meringue with the whites of the eggs beaten up with a tablespoonful of sugar. CAKE. General Suggestions." — Always sift the flour for cake before measuring out the amount required. Use the best granulated white sugar. Eggs for use in cake are better to have the yolks and whites beaten separately. Beat the former until they cease to froth and begin to thicken as if mixed with flour. Beat the whites until stiff enough to remain in the bowl if inverted. Have the eggs and dishes cool, and if prac- ticable, beat in a cool room. Use earthen or china bowls to beat eggs in. If fruit is to be used, it should be washed and dried accord- ing to directions given on page 298, and then dusted with flour, a dessert-spoonful to the pound of fruit. For use in cup cake or any other cake which requires a quick baking, raisins should be first steamed. If you have no patent steamer, place them in a close covered dish within an ordinary steamer, and cook for an hour over a kettle of boiling water. This should be done the day before they are to be used. Use an earthen or granite-ware basin for mixing cake. Be very accurate in measuring the materials, and have them all at hand and all utensils ready before beginning to put the cake together. If it is to be baked at once, see that the oven also is at just the right temperature. It should be less hot for cake 344 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. than for bread. Thin cakes require a hotter oven than those baked in loaves. They require from fifteen to twenty minutes to bake ; thicker loaves, from thirty to sixty minutes. For loaf cakes the oven should be at such a temperature that dur- ing the first half of the time the cake will have risen to its full height and just begun to brown. The recipes given require neither baking powder, soda, nor saleratus. Yeast and air can be made to supply the necessary lightness, and their use admits of as great a variety in cakes as will be needed on a hygienic bill of fare. In making cake with yeast, do not use very thick cream, as a rich, oily batter retards fermentation and makes the cake slow in rising. If the cake browns too quickly, protect it by a covering of paper. If necessary to move a cake in the oven, do it very gently. Do not slam the oven door or in any way jar a cake while baking, lest it fall. Line cake tins with paper to prevent burning the bottom and edges. Oil the paper, not the tins, very lightly. Cake is done when it shrinks from the pan and stops hissing, or when a clean straw run into the thickest part comes up clean. As soon as possible after baking, remove from the pan, as, if allowed to remain in the pan, it is apt to become too moist. RECIPES. Apple Cake. — Scald a cup of thin cream and cool to blood heat, add one and a half cups of sifted white flour, one fourth of a cup of sugar, and a gill of liquid yeast or one half cake of compressed yeast dissolved in a gill of thin cream. Beat well together, set in a warm place, and let it rise till perfectly light. When well risen, add one half cup of sugar mixed with one half cup of warm flour. Beat well and set in a warm place to rise again. When risen a second time, add two eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, and about one tablespoonful of flour. Turn the whole into three round shallow baking tins, which have beeu previ- ously oiled and warmed, and place where it will rise again for an hour, or until it is all of a foam. Bake quickly in a moderately hot oven. Make this the day before it is needed, and when ready to use prepare a filling as follows : Beat together the whites of two eggs, one half cup of sugar, the juice of one lemon, and two large tart apples well grated. LEMON PIE WITH GRANOLA CRUST. HEALTH BON BONS. NUT CAKE. DESSERTS. 345 Heat in a farina kettle until all are hot ; cool, and spread between the layers of cake. This should be eaten the day the filling is prepared. Delicate Cup Cake. — This cake contains no soda or baking powder, and to make it light requires the incorporation of as much air as pos- sible. In order to accomplish this, it should be put together in the same manner as directed for Batter Breads (page 154). Have all material measured and everything in readiness before beginning to put the cake together, then beat together the yolk of one egg, one cup of sugar, and one cup of very cold sweet cream, until all of a foam ; add a little grated lemon rind for flavoring ; stir in slowly, beating briskly all the time, two cups of granular white flour (sometimes termed gluten flour) or Graham meal. When all the flour is added, add lastly the beaten whites of two eggs, stirring just enough to mix them well throughout the whole ; turn at once into slightly heated gem irons which have been pre- viously oiled, and bake in a moderately quick oven. If made according to directions, this cake will be very light and delicate. It will not puff up much above its first proportions, but will be light throughout. A nice cake may be prepared in the same manner with Graham meal or even white flour, by the addition of a heaping tablespoonful of cornstarch sifted into the flour, in the way in which baking powder is ordinarily mixed with flour before using. Fig Layer Cake. — Prepare the cake as directed for Apple Cake. Chop one half pound of figs very fine, add one half cup of sugar, one cup of water, and boil in a farina kettle until soft and homogeneous. Cool, and spread between the cakes. Or chop steamed figs very fine, mix with an equal quantity of almondine, and use. Fruit Jelly Cake. — Prepare the cake as in the foregoing, using fruit jelly between the layers. Gold and SilTer Cake. — Prepare the cake as for Apple Cake. When it has risen the second time, measure out one third of it, and add the yolks of the eggs to that portion with a little grated lemon rind for flavor- ing ; add the whites with some very finely pulverized desiccated cocoanut to the other two thirds. Make two sheets of the white and one of the yellow. Allow them to become perfectly light before baking. When baked, place the yellow portion between the two white sheets, binding them together with a little frosting or white currant jelly. Icing for Cakes. — Since icing adds to the excess of sugar contained in cakes, it is preferable to use them without it except when especially desired for ornament. An icing without eggs may be prepared by boil- ing a cup of granulated sugar in five tablespoonfuls of sweet milk for five minutes, then beating until cool enough to spread. One with egg may be easily made of six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, the white of one egg, 346 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. and one teaspoonful of boiling water mixed without beating. A colored icing may be made by using a teaspoonful of boiling cranberry juice or other red fruit juice instead of water. The top of the icing may be or- namented with roasted almonds, bits of colored sugar or frosted fruits, directions for the preparation of all of which have already been given. Simple Sponge Cake.* — Three eggs, two tablespoonfuls of hot water, one large cup of flour, one cup of sugar and one teaspoonful of vanilla (if desired). Beat together for fifteen minutes, the eggs, the hot water and the sugar; next fold in the flour and the flavoring. In beating, the eggs will stiffen quicker, if set in a dish of hot water, after the egg mixture is partially thickened. Bake in a moderate oven about forty minutes. Fruit Cake.* — Into the simple sponge cake mixture, carefully fold one- half cupful each of raisins and dates, which have been washed, seeded, chopped, and well floured. Bake in a moderate oven one hour, or longer if necessary. Jelly Cake.*— The cake mixture is the same as the above recipe. Bake in layers, spreading apple jelly between the layers. Sliced bananas, ripe peaches, fresh berries, orange sections from which the white has been removed, may also be used between the layers. Fruit Cake. — Make a sponge of one pint of thin cream which has been scalded and cooled to lukewarm, one gill of liquid yeast or one half cake of compressed yeast dissolved in a gill of cream, one half cup of sugar, and two and one half cups of flour. Beat all together very thor- oughly and let rise until light. When light, add another half cup of sugar, one half cup of rather thick cream which has been scalded and cooled, one cup of warm flour, and after beating well together, set away to rise again. When well risen, add one cup of seeded raisins, one fourth cup of citron chopped fine, one half cup of 2ante currants, two well-beaten eggs, and about one and one third cups of flour. Turn into a brick loaf bread pan, let it rise until very light, and bake. When done, remove from the pan and set away until at least twenty-four hours old before using. Loaf Cake. — Scald a cup of rather thin cream, and cool to blood heat. Add one and one half cups of warm flour, one half a cup of sugar, and one fourth cake of compressed yeast dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of thin cream or as much of liquid yeast. Beat well, and let rise until per- fectly light ; then add one half cup more of sugar mixed with one half cup of warm flour. Beat well, and set away to rise a second time. When again well risen, add the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one half cup of warm flour, and a little grated lemon rind, or two teaspoonfuls of rose water to flavor. Turn into a brick loaf bread pan lined with oiled paper, allow it to become perfectly light again, and bake. This cake, like DESSERTS. 3^7 other articles made with yeast, should not be eaten within at least twenty- four hours after baking. Pineapple Cake. — Prepare as for orange cake, using grated pineapple in place of oranges. Plain Buns. — These are the simplest of all cakes. Dissolve half a small cake of compressed yeast in a cup of thin cream which has been previously warmed to blood heat, add two cups of warm flour, and beat thoroughly together. Put in a warm place, and let it rise till very light. Add three tablespoonfuls of sugar mixed well with a half cup of warm flour, one half cup of Zante currants, and sufficient flour to make of the consistency of dough. Buns should be kneaded just as soft as possible, and from fifteen to twenty minutes. Shape into biscuits a little larger than an English walnut, place them on tins far enough apart so they will not touch each other when risen. Put in a warm place till they have risen to twice their first size, then bake in a moderately quick oven. If desired, the currants may be omitted and a little grated lemon rind for flavoring added with the sugar, or a bit of citron may be placed in the top of each bun when shaping. When taken from the oven, sprinkle the top of each with moist sugar if desired, or glace by brushing with milk while baking. Sponge Cake. — For this will be required four eggs, one cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of lemon juice with a little of the grated rind, and one cup of white flour. Success in the making of sponge cake depends almost wholly upon the manner in which it is put together. Beat the yolks of the eggs until very light and thick, then add the sugar little by little, beating it in thoroughly ; add the lemon juice and the grated rind. Beat the whites of the eggs until perfectly stiff and firm, and fold or chop them very lightly into the yolk mixture. Sift the flour with a sifter little by little over the mixture and fold it carefully in. On no account stir either the white of the eggs or the flour in, since stirring will drive out the air which has been beaten into the eggs. Do not beat after the flour is added. The cake, when the flour is all in, should be stiff and spongy. If it is liquid in character, it will be apt to be tough and may be considered a failure. Bake in a shallow pan in a rather hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Sugar Crisps. — Make a soft dough of two and one fourth cups of Gra- ham flour, one half cup of granulated white sugar, and one cup of rather thick sweet cream. Knead as little as possible, roll out very thinly, cut in rounds or squares, and bake in a quick oven. Sunshine Cake.— Take five large fresh eggs, one cup of granulated sugar (sifted), one cup of flour (sifted), one tablespoonful of lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Have the material, pans, and oven all in readiness. 348 SCIENCE IN THE KlTCHEN. Put the whites into a large bowl or a round-bottomed crock. With a Dover egg beater beat the yolks rapidly until thick and creamy. Next add the sugar which has been flavored with the oil of the lemon, and beat ag^iin very thoroughly, using the Dover beater in the form of a whip, not turning the crank, as it will make it too stiff. It should be very stiff when done. Set this to one side, add the salt to the whites, and with the wire spoon egg beater whip until light and frothy, but not stiff. Add the lemon juice and beat until very stiff, so that it has a cooked appearance. Next pour slowly into the whites the yolk and sugar mixture, stirring with the beater constantly, until thoroughly mixed. The stirring should be a sort of dipping down into the mixture at the side of the bowl, coming up through the center, then lifting the beater up, and repeating, dipping in iirst on one side then on the other. Last add the flour very carefully, first sprinkling one half the flour evenly over the top, and when that is partly mixed in, sprinkle the remain- der on and mix until no dry flour can be seen. The mixing should be done with the same movement used in mixing in the sugar and yolks. If it is stirred much after adding the flour, it becomes tough. This can be baked as a layer cake or as a loaf; if as a layer cake, bake in two layers for thirty-five minutes. It should not brown the first twenty minutes, but should be getting light, and must be left in the pans until cold. If baked as a loaf, it should be baked about forty minutes, and should not brown for the first thirty or thirty-five minutes. The ' ' Misses Lisk Improved Cake Tins " are the best for all sponge cakes. Turn the pans upside down as soon as taken from the oven, and leave thus until cold. Hut Sponge Cake. — Proceed same as for Sunshine Cake, adding to the mixture just before the flour is to be sifted in one cup of finely rolled nut meats or nut meal. Instead of the flour a half cup of gluten meal may be used if preferred. English walnuts, pecans, or hickory nuts are the best in flavor for this cake ; baked almonds may be used. Bake in a loaf the same as Sunshine Cake. Mrs. N.'s White Sponge Cake. — Take the whites of six large or seven small eggs, one cup of sifted granulated sugar, a tablespoonful of lemon juice and two thirds of a cup of flour. Sift the flour three or four times, to make it very light. Add a pinch of salt to the whites of the eggs, and beat until stiff enough to remain in the dish if turned bottom upwards. Then add the lemon juice, and beat again until the whites are very stiff. Add the flavoring and sugar. Fold the flour in lightly and quickly, and take slowly thirty-five to fifty minutes. Bc-aiiiig ti.L' r-;j;gs. Folding in tlie Flour. NUT CAKE. TABLE TOPICS. If families could be induced to substitute the apple — sound, ripe, and luscious — for the pies, cakes, candies, and other sweetmeats with which children are too often stuffed, there would be a diminution of doctors' bills, sufficient in a single year to lay up a stock of this delicious fruit for a season's use. — Prof, Faraday. Food for repentance — mince pie eaten late at night. Young Student — "This cook book says that pie crust needs plenty of shorten- ing. Do you know what that means, pa ? " Father — "It means lard. " " But why is lard called shortening, pa ? " "Because it shortens life. " The health journals and the doctors all agree that the best and most wholesome part of the New England country doughnut is the hole. The larger the hole, they say, the better the doughnut. An old gentleman who was in the habit of eating a liberal slice of pie or cake just before retiring, came home late one evening after his wife had gone to bed. After an unsuccessful search in the pantry, he called to his wife, " Mary, where is the pie?" His good wife timidly acknowledged that there was no pie in the house. Said her husband, " Then where is the cake ? " The poor woman meekly confessed that the supply of cake was also exhausted ; at which the disappointed husband cried out in a sharp, censorious tone, " Why, what would you do if somebody should be sick in the night ? " Woman ( to tramp) — "I can give you some cold buckwheat cakes and a piece of mince pie. " Tramp — ( frightened ) " What ye say ? " Woman — "Cold buckwheat cakes and mince pie. " Tramp — (heroically) "Throw in a small bottle of pepsin, Madam, and I'll take the chances." [349] JRAVIES for vegetables, sauces for desserts, and similar IvI^ foods thickened with flour or cornstarch, are among the most common of the poorly prepared articles of the cuisine, although their proper preparation is a matter of considerable importance, since neither a thin, watery sauce nor a stiff, paste-like mixture is at all palatable. The preparation of gravies and sauces is a very simple matter when governed by that accuracy of measurement and carefulness of detail which should be exercised in the preparation of all foods. In consistency, a properly made sauce should mask the back of the spoon ; that is to say, when dipped into the mixture and lifted out, the metal of the spoon should not be visible through it as it runs off. The proportion of material necessary to secure this requisite is one tablespoonful of flour, slightly rounded, for each half pint of water or stock. If the sauce be made of milk or fruit juice, a little less flour will be needed. If cornstarch be used, a scant instead of a full tablespoonful will be required. The flour, or cornstarch should be first braided [350] GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 351 or rubbed perfectly smooth in a very small amount of the liquid reserved for the purpose (salt or sugar, if any is to be used, be- ing added to the flour before braiding with the liquid), and then carefully added to the remaining liquid, which should be actively boiling. It should then be continuously stirred until it has thickened, when it should be allowed to cook slowly for five or ten minutes until the starch or flour is well done. If through any negligence to observe carefully these simple de- tails, there should be lumps in the sauce, they must be removed before serving by turning the whole through a fine colander or wire strainer. The double boiler is the best utensil for the preparation of sauces and gravies, since it facilitates even cooking and renders them less liable to become scorched. The inner cup should be placed on the top of the range until the sauce has become thick- ened, as in the cooking of grains, and afterward placed in the outer boiler to continue the cooking as long as needed. Cream gravies for vegetables may be delicately flavored with celery, by steeping a few bits of celery in the milk for a few minutes, and removing with a fork before adding the thickening. Sauces for puddings may be similarly flavored, by steeping co- coanut or bits of orange or lemon rind in the milk. GRAVIES AND SAUCES FOR VEGETABLES. RECIPES. Brown Sance. — Heat a pint of thin cream, and when boiling, add half a teaspoonful of salt and two and one half tablespoonfuls of flour browned in the oven as directed on page 274, and rubbed to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Allow it to boil rapidly, stirring constantly until thickened ; then cook more slowly, in a double boiler, for five or ten minutes. If desired, the milk may be flavored with onion before adding the flour. This makes a good dressing for potatoes. Cream or White Sauce.— Heat a pint of rich milk, part cream if it can be afforded, to boiling, and stir into it two tablespoonfuls of flour previously rubbed smooth in a little milk. Season with salt, and cook in a double boiler five or ten minutes, stirring frequently that no lumps be formed. If lumps are found in the sauce, turn it quickly through a fine, hot colan- der into the (Jisb in which it is to be served. 352 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Celery Sauce. — Cut half a dozen stalks of celery into finger-lengths, and simmer in milk for ten or fifteen minutes. Skim out the celery, add a little cream to the milk, salt to taste, and thicken with flour as for white sauce. This is very nice for potatoes and for toast. Egg Sauce. — Heat a pint of milk to boiling, and stir in a dessertspoon- ful of flour rubbed smooth in a little milk. Stir constantly until the sauce is well thickened ; add the well-beaten yolk of an egg, turning it in very slowly and stirring rapidly so that it shall be well mingled. Boil up once only, add a very little salt, and serve. The egg makes an excellent sub- stitute for cream. Pease Gi'ayy. — A gravy prepared either of dried or green peas as di- rected for Lentil Gravy on page 226, makes a suitable dressing for baked potatoes. Lentil gravy is also good for the same purpose. The addition of a little lemon juice to the lentil gravy makes another variety. Tomato Grayy. — A gravy made of tomatoes as directed on page 261, is excellent to use on baked or boiled sweet potatoes. Tomato Cream Gravy. — Prepare a gravy as for Cream Sauce, using a slightly heaping measure of flour. When done, add, just before serving, for each quart of the cream sauce, one cup of hot, stewed tomato which has been put through a fine colander to remove all seeds. Beat it thoroughly into the sauce and serve on boiled or baked potato. Gluten Gravy. — Add one tablespoonful of gluten meal to one pint of hot milk. Leave in a double boiler to cook fifteen minutes, salt to taste and thicken with flour to the desired consistency. Instead of milk, water in which a tablespoonful of nut butter has been dissolved may be used. Browned Cream Sauce. — Heat to boiling one cup o£ rich milk or nut cream, add salt to season, and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of 40% gluten previously browned in the oven . SAUCES FOR DESSERTS AND PUDDINGS. RECIPES. Cocoanut Sauce. — Flavor a pint of new milk with cocoanut, as directed on page 298. Skim out the cocoanut, and add enough fresh milk to make one pint. Heat the milk to boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, thicken with two even spoonfuls of cornstarch, and proceed in the same manner as for Mock Cream. Cream Sauce. — Beat together two thirds of a cup of sugar, one table- spoonful of thick, sweet cream, and one egg. Wet half a teaspoonful of GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 353 cornstarch with a little milk, and stir in with the mixture ; then add five tablespoonfuls of boiling milk, stirring rapidly all the time. Pour into the inner cup of a double boiler ; have the water in the outer cup boiling, and cook five minutes. Flavor to taste. Cranberry Pudding Sauce. — To a quart of boiling water add two cups of sugar, and when well dissolved, one quart of carefully sorted cran- berries. Mash the berries as much as possible with a silver spoon, and boil just seven minutes. Turn through a colander to remove skins, cool and serve. Custard Sance. — Rub two teaspoonfuls of flour to a smooth paste with half a cup of new milk. Heat two and a half cups of fresh milk in a double boiler to scalding, then stir in the braided flour ; heat again, stirring constantly till just to the boiling point, but no longer ; remove from the stove and cool a little. Beat together one egg, three tablespoon- fuls of sugar, and a little lemon rind for flavoring. Turn the hot milk over this, a little at a time, stirring briskly meanwhile. Return the whole to the double boiler, and cook, stirring frequently, until when a spoon is dipped into the custard a coating remains upon it. Then remove at once from the fire. If the spoon comes out clean, the custard is not sufiiciently cooked. Egg Sauce. — Separate the yolks and whites of three eggs. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and stir in very gently, so as not to let the air out of the beaten whites, one cup of powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon flavoring powder. Lastly, stir in carefully the beaten yolks of the eggs, and serve at once. Egg Sauce No. 2. — Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth with one half cup of sugar. Add three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and one of water. Serve at once. Foamy Sauce. — Beat one egg or the whites of two very thoroughly with one half cup of sugar and a little grated lemon rind. Pour on this very slowly, stirring constantly to make it smooth, one cup of boiling milk, part cream if it can be afforded. If the whites alone are used, they should not be beaten stiff. If preferred, the lemon may be omitted and a tablespoonful or two of currant juice or quince jelly added last as flavoring. Fruit Cream. — Take the juice pressed from a cupful of fresh straw- berries, red raspberries, or black caps, add to it one third of a cup of sugar, and place in the ice chest till chilled. Set a cup of sweet cream also on ice till very cold. When thoroughly cold, whip with an egg beater till the froth begins to rise, then add to it the cold fruit juice and beat again. Have ready the white of one egg beaten to a stiff froth, which add to the fruit cream, and whip till no more froth will rise. This makes a doJi- 23 354 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. cious dressing for simple grain molds and blancmanges, but is so rich it should be used rather sparingly. Serve as soon as possible after being prepared. Fruit syrup, in the proportion of two or three tablespoonfuls to the pint of cream, may be used in the same manner when the fresh juice is not available. The juice of orange, quince, and pineapple may also be used in the same manner as that of berries. Fruit Sauce. — Heat a pint of red raspberry, currant, grape, straw- berry, apricot, or any other fruit juice to scalding, and stir in a table- spoonful of cornstarch previously rubbed to a cream with a little cold water. Cook till it thickens ; then add sugar according to the acidity of the fruit. Strain and cool before using. If fruit juice is not available, two or three tablespoonfuls of pure fruit jelly may be dissolved in a pint of hot water and used instead of the juice. A mixture of red and black raspberry juice, or currant and raspberry, will be found acceptable for variety. Fruit Sauce No. 2. — Mash a quart of fresh berries, add one cup of sugar, beat very thoroughly together, and set away until needed. Just be- fore it is wanted for serving, turn into a granite fruit kettle and heat nearly to boiling, stirring constantly to avoid burning. Serve hot with hot or cold puddings, or molded desserts. Lemon Pudding Sauce. — Heat to boiling, in a double boiler, a pint of water in which are two slices of lemon, and stir into it a dessertspoonful of cornstarch ; cook four or five minutes, or until it thickens. Squeeze the juice from one large lemon, and mix it with two thirds of a cup of sugar. Add this to the cornstarch mixture, and allow the whole to boil up once, stirring constantly ; then take from the fire. Leave in the double boiler, surrounded by the hot water, for ten minutes. Cool to blood heat before serving. Mock Cream. — Heat a pint of fresh, unskimmed milk in a double boiler. When the milk is boiling, stir in two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two even tablespoonfuls of cornstarch which has first been rubbed smooth in a very httle cold milk. Bring just to a boil, stirring con- stantly ; then pour the hot mixture, a little at a time, beating thoroughly all the while, over the well-beaten white of one egg. Put again into the double boiler, return to the fire, and stir till it thickens to the con- sistency of cream. Molasses Sauce. — To one half cup of molasses, add one half cup of water, and heat to boiling. Thicken with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed to a cream with a little cold water. Serve hot. Orange Sauce. — Squeeze a cupful of juice from well-flavored, sour oranges. Heat a pint of water, and when boiling, thicken with a table- sgoonful of cornstarch. Add the orange juice, strain, and sweeten to GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 355 taste with sugar that has been flavored by rubbing over the yellow rind of an orange until mixed with the oil in the rind. If a richer sauce is de- sired, the yolk of an egg may be added lastly, and the sauce allowed to cook until thickened. Peach Sauce. — Strain the juice from a well-kept can of peaches. Dilute with one half as much water, heat to boiling, and thicken with cornstarch, a scant tablespoonful to the pint of liquid. Plain Pudding Sauce. — Thicken one and one half cups of water with one tablespoonful of cornstarch ; boil a few minutes, then stir in two thirds of a cup of sugar, and one half cup of sweet cream. Take off the stove, and flavor with a little rose, vanilla, or lemon. Bed Sauce. — Pare and slice a large red beet, and simmer gently in three cups of water for twenty minutes, or until the water is rose colored, then add two cups of sugar, the thin yellow rind and juice of one lemon, and boil until the whole is thick syrup. Strain, add a teaspoonful of rose water or vanilla, and serve. Rose Cream. — Remove the thick cream from the top of a pan of cold milk, taking care not to take up any of the milk. Add sugar to sweeten and a teaspoonful or two of rose water. Beat with an egg beater until the whole mass is thick. Good thick cream, beaten in this manner, makes nearly double its original quantity. Sago Sauce. — Wash one tablespoonful of sago in two or three waters, then put it into a saucepan with three fourths of a cup of hot water, and some bits of lemon peel. Simmer gently for ten minutes, take out "the lemon peel, add half a cup of quince or apricot juice ; and if the latter, the strained juice of half a lemon,- and sugar to taste. Beat together thoroughly. Whipped Cream Sauce. — Beat together with an egg beater until of a stiff froth one cup of sweet cream which has been cooled to a temperature of 64° or less, one teaspoonful of vanilla or a little grated lemon rind, and one half cup of powdered white sugar, and the whites of one or two eggs which have been beaten to a stiff froth. The sauce may be variously flavored with a little fruit jelly beaten with the egg, before adding to the cream. Meltose Sauce.*— Boil together one cupful of meltose, the juice of one lemon, and one-half cup of strawberry juice. Thicken with one table- spoonful of flour and color pink with the juice from one large beet which has been cut into very small pieces and stewed. Almond Cream Sauce.* — Thicken one cupful of boiling water with two teaspoonfuls of flour. Stir this into four rounded tablespoonfuls of almond butter. Add one and one-fourth cupfuls of water. Serve warm. TABLE TOPICS. Whether or not life is worth living, all depends upon the liver. — Sel. Diet cures mair than doctors. — Scotch Proverb. According to the ancient Hindu Scriptures, the proper amount of food is half of what can be conveniently eaten. Every hour you steal from digestion will be reclaimed by indigestion. — Oswald. MoOTHS ( mouths ) are nae measures. — Scotch Proverb. "Very few nations in the world," says a sagacious historian, "produce better soldiers than the Russians. They will endure the greatest fatigues and sufferings with patience and calmness. And it is well known that the Russian soldiers are from childhood nourished by simple and coarse vegetable food. The Russian Grenadiers are the finest body of men I ever saw, — not a man is under six feet high. Their allowance consists of eight pounds of black bread, and four pounds of oil per man for eight days." Colonel Fitzgibeon was, many years ago, colonial agent at London for the Canadian Government, and wholly dependent upon remittances from Canada for his support. On one occasion these remittances failed to arrive, and it being before the day of cables, he was obliged to write to his friends to ascertain the reason of the de- lay. Meanwhile he had just one sovereign to live upon. He found he could live upon a sixpence a day, — four pennyworth of bread, one pennyworth of milk, and one pennyworth of sugar. When his remittances arrived a month afterward, he had five shillings remaining of his sovereign, and he liked his frugal diet so well that he kept it up for several years. An hour of exercise to every pound of food. — Oswald. Some eat to live, they loudly cry ; But from the pace they swallow pie And other food promiscuously, One would infer they eat to die. — Sel. [356] I HE use of beverages in quantities with food at meal- time is prejudicial to digestion, because they delay the action of the gastric juice upon solid foods. The ^f?'' practice of washing down food by copious draughts of water, tea, or coffee is detrimental, not only because it intro- duces large quantities of fluid into the stomach, which must be absorbed before digestion can begin, but also because it offers temptation to careless and imperfect mastication, while tea and coffee also serve as a vehicle for an excessive use of sugar, thus becoming a potent cause of indigestion and dys- pepsia. It is best to drink but sparingly, if at all, at mealtimes. Consideration should also be given to the nature of the bever- age, since many in common use are far from wholesome. Very cold fluids, like iced water, iced tea, and iced milk, are harm- ful, because they cool the contents of the stomach to a degree at which digestion is checked. If drunk at all, they should be taken only in small sips and retained in the mouth until partly warmed. [357] 358 SCISls^CE IN THE KITCHEN. Tea is often spoken of as the "cup that cheers but not ine- briates." "The cup that may cheer yet does injury" would be nearer the truth, for there is every evidence to prove that this common beverage is exceedingly harmful, and that the evils of its excessive use are second only to those of tobacco and alcohol. Tea contains two harmful substances, theine and tannin, — from three to six per cent of the former and more than one fourth its weight of the latter. Theine is a poison belonging to the same class of poisonous alkaloids, and is closely allied to cocaine. It is a much more powerful poison than alcohol, producing death in less than one hundredth part the deadly dose of alcohol ; and when taken in any but the smallest doses, it produces all the symptoms of intoxication. Tannin is an astringent exercising a powerful effect in delaying salivary and stomach digestion, thus becoming one of the most common causes of digestive disorders. It is also a matter of frequent observation that sleeplessness, palpitation of the heart, and various disorders of the nervous system frequently fol- low the prolonged use of tea. Both theine and tannin are more abundant in green than in black tea. The dependence of the habitual tea-drinker upon the bever- age, and the sense of loss experienced when deprived of it, are among the strongest proofs of its evil effects, and should be warnings against its use. No such physical discomfort is ex- perienced when deprived of any article of ordinary food. The use of tea makes one feel bright and fresh when really ex- hausted; but like all other stimulants, it is by exciting vital action above the normal without supplying extra force to sup- port the extra expenditure. The fact that a person feels tired is evidence that the system demands rest, that his body is worn and needs repair; but the relief experienced after a cup of tea is not recuperation. Instead, it indicates that his nerves are paralyzed so that they are insensible to fatigue. Some people suppose the manner of preparing tea has much to do with its deleterious effects, and that by infusion for two or three minutes only, the evils resulting from the tannin will be greatly lessened. This, however, is a delusion. fiEVERAGES. 359 if the same amount of tea be used proportionate to tlie water ; for tannin in its free state, tlie condition in which it is found in tea is one of the most readily soluble of substances ; and tea infused for two minutes is likely to hold nearly as much tannin in solution as that infused for a longer period. Tea is not a food, and can in no wise take the place of food, as so many people attempt to make it, without detriment to health in every respect. Coffee, cocoa, and chocolate rank in the same category with tea, as beverages which are more or less harmful. Coffee contains caffein, a principle identical with theine and a modi- fied form of tannin, though in less quantity than tea. Cocoa and chocolate contain substances similar to theine and equally harmful, though usually present in much less proportion than in tea." Custom has made the use of these beverages so common that most people seldom stop to inquire into their nature. Doubt- less the question arises in many minds. If these beverages contain such poisons, why do they not more commonly pro- duce fatal results.'' — Because a tolerance of the poison is estab- lished in the system by use, as in the case of tobacco and other narcotics and stimulants ; but that the poisons surely though insidiously are doing their work is attested by the prevalence of numerous disorders of the digestive and nervous systems, directly attributable to the use of these beverages. Both tea and coffee are largely adulterated with other harmful substances, thus adding another reason why their use should be discarded. It is stated on good authority that it is almost impossible to obtain unadulterated ground coffee. In view of all these facts, it certainly seems wisest if a beverage is considered essential, to make use of one less harmful. Hot milk, hot water, hot lemonade, caramel coffee, or some of the various grain coffees, recipes for which are given in the following pages, are all excellent substitutes for tea and coffee, if a hot drink is desired. 360 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. RECIPES. Beet Coffee. — Wash best beets thoroughly, but do not scrape; slice, and brown in a moderate oven, taking care not to burn. When brown, break in small pieces and steep the same as ordinary coffee. Caramel Coffee. — Take three quarts best bran, one quart corn meal, three tablespoonfuls of molasses ; mix and brown in the oven like ordinary coffee. For every cup of coffee required, use one heaping tablespoon- ful of the caramel. Pour boiling water over it, and steep, not boil, for fifteen or twenty minutes. Caramel Coffee No. 2. — Take one cup each of white flour, corn meal, unsifted Graham flour, and molasses. Mix well, and form into cakes half an inch thick and a little larger around than a silver dollar. If the molasses is not thin enough to take up all the dry material, one fourth or one half a cup of cold water may be added for that purpose. Bake the cakes in the oven until very dark brown, allowing them to become slightly scorched. When desired for use, take one cake for each cup of coffee required, pour sufficient water over them, and steep, not boil, twenty minutes. Caramel Coffee No. 3. — To three and one half quarts of bran and one and one half quarts of corn meal, take one pint of New Orleans molasses and one half pint of boiling water. Put the water and molasses together and pour them over the bran and corn meal which have been previously mixed. Rub all well together, and brown slowly in the oven, stirring often, until a rich dark brown. Use one heaping tablespoon- ful of coffee to each small cup of boiling water, let it just boil up, then steep on the back of the stove for five or ten minutes. Caramel Coffee No. 4. — Beat together four eggs and one pint of mo- lasses, and mix thoroughly with four quarts of good wheat bran. Brown in the oven, stirring frequently. Prepare for use the same as the pre- ceding. Mrs. T's Caramel Coffee. — Make a rather thick batter of Graham grits or Graham meal and milk, spread it in shallow pans and bake in a moder- ate oven until evenly done throughout. Cut the cake thus prepared into thin strips, which break into small uniform pieces and spread on per- forated tins or sheets and brown in the oven. Each piece should be very darkly and evenly browned, but not burned. For each cup of coffee required, steep a small handful in boiling water for ten or fifteen minutes, strain and serve. Parched Grain Coffee. — Brown in the oven some perfectly sound wheat, sweet corn, barley, or rice, as you would the coffee berry. If desired, a mixture of grains may be used. Pound or grind fine. Mix the BEVERAGES. 36 1 white of an egg with three tablespoonfuls of the ground grain, and pour over it a quart of boiling water. Allow it to come just to the boiling point, steep slowly for twelve or fifteen minutes, and serve. Wlieat, Oats and Barley Coffee. — Mix together equal quantities of these grains, brown in the oven like ordinary coffee, and grind. To one quart of boiling water take three tablespoonfuls of the prepared coffee mixed with the white of an egg, and steep in boiling water ten or fifteen minutes. RECIPES FOR COLD BEVERAGES. Blackberry Beverage. — Crush a quart of fresh blackberries, and pour over them a quart of cold water ; add a slice of lemon and a teaspoonful of orange water, and let it stand three or four hours. Strain through a jelly bag. Sweeten to taste with a syrup prepared by dissolving white sugar in hot water, allowing it to become cold before using. Serve at once with bits of broken ice in the glasses, or place the pitcher on ice until ready to serve. Fruit Beverage. — A great variety of pleasant, healthful drinks may be made by taking equal quantities of water and the juice of currants, straw- berries, raspberries, cherries, or a mixture of two kinds, as raspberries and currants, sweetening to taste, and putting into each glass a small lump of ice. Directions for the preparation of fruit juices will be found on page 2og. Fruit Beverage No. 2. — Mash a pint of red raspberries, add one cup of canned pineapple or half a fresh one chopped fine ; pour over all three pints of water. Stir frequently, and let the mixture stand for two hours. Strain, add the juice of six lemons, and sugar or syrup to sweeten. Another. — Extract the juice from three lemons and as many sour oranges, add a quart of cold water, sugar or syrup to sweeten, half a teaspoonful of rose water, and a cup of pure grape juice ; or the rose water and grape juice may be omitted and two tablespoonfuls of straw- berry, raspberry, or cherry juice used instead, and the whole poured over half a dozen slices of pineapple, and allowed to stand until well flavored before using. Fruit Cordial. — Crush a pint of blackberries, raspberries, grapes, cur- rants, or cherries, adding the juice of two sour oranges, and a sliced lemon ; pour over all a quart of cold water. Stir the mixture frequently and let it stand for two hours, then strain and add a syrup made by dis- solving white sugar in boiling water, sufficient to sweeten. Cool on ice and serve. Grape Beverage. — Crush two pounds of perfectly ripened purple grapes and strain the juice through a jelly bag. Add to the juice three 3^2 SCIENCfe IN THE KITCHE>J. tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar or syrup, and dilute with cold water to suit the taste. Lemonade. — Use three large or four medium-sized lemons for each quart of water, and from six to eight tablespoonfuls of sugar. Rub or squeeze the lemons till soft. Cut a slice or two from each, and extract the juice with a lemon drill ; strain the juice through a fine wire strainer to remove the seeds and bits of pulp, and pour it over the sugar. Add the slices of lemon, and pour over all a very little boiling water to thoroughly dissolve the sugar ; let it stand ten or fifteen minutes, then add the neces- sary quantity of cold water, and serve. Or rub the sugar over the out- side of the lemons to flavor it, and make it into a syrup by adding sufficient boiling water to dissolve it. Extract and strain the lemon juice, add the prepared syrup and the requisite quantity of cold water, and serve. Mixed Lemonade. — A very pleasant, cooling summer drink is made from the juice of six oranges and six lemons, with sugar to taste ; add to this some pounded ice and the juice of a small can of pineapple, and lastly pour over the whole two quarts of water. Oatmeal Drink. — Boil one fourth of a pound of oatmeal in three quarts of water for half an hour, then add one and one half tablespoonfuls of sugar, strain and cool. It may be flavored with a little lemon or rasp- berry syrup if desired ; or the sugar may be omitted and a quart of milk added. Cool on ice and serve. Orangreade. — Pare very thin from one orange a few bits of the yellow rind. Slice three well-peeled sour oranges, taking care to remove all the white portion and all seeds. Add the yellow rind and a tablespoonful of sugar ; pour over all a quart of boiling water. Cover the dish, and let it remain until the drink is cold. Or, if preferred, the juice of the oranges may be extracted with a lemon drill and strained as for lemonade. Pineapple Beyerage. — Pare and chop quite fine one fresh pineapple ; add a slice or two of lemon, and cover with three pints of boiling water. Let it stand for two hours or more, stirring frequently ; then strain and add the juice of five lemons, and sugar or syrup to sweeten. Pineapple Lemonade. — Lemonade made in the usual manner and flavored with a few spoonfuls of canned pineapple juice, is excellent for variety. Pink Lemonade. — Add to a pint of lemonade prepared in the usual manner half a cup of fresh or canned strawberry, red raspberry, cur- rant, or cranberry juice. It gives a pretty color besides adding a pleasing flavor. Sherbet. — Mash a quart of red raspberries, currants, or straw- harries, add the juice of a lemon, and pour over all three pints of cold TABLE TOPICS. 363 Water. Stir frequently, and let it stand for two or three hours. Strain through a jelly bag, sweeten to taste, and serve. Tisane. — This is a favorite French beverage, and is prepared by chop- ping iine a cupful of dried fruits, such as prunes, figs, or prunells, and steeping for an hour in a quart of water, afterward straining, sweetening to taste, and cooling on ice before using. TABLE TOPICS. The nervousness and peevishness of our times are chiefly attributable to tea and coffee. The digestive organs of confirmed coffee drinlcers are in a state of chronic derangement which reacts on the brain, producing fretful and lachrymose moods. The snappish, petulant humor of the Chinese can certainly be ascribed to their immod- erate fondness for tea. — Dr. Bock. Dr. Ferguson, an eminent physician who has carefully investigated the influ- ence of tea and coffee upon the health and development of children, says he found that children who were allowed these beverages gained but four pounds a year between the ages of thirteen and sixteen, while those who had been allowed milk instead, gained fifteen pounds in weight during the same period. Dr. Richardson, the eminent English physician and scientist, asserts that the misery of the women of the poorer classes of the population in England is more than doubled by the use of tea, which only soothes or stimulates to intensify the after- coming depression and languor. A PHYSICIAN recommended a lady to abandon the use of tea and coffee. " O, but I shall miss it so," said she. "Very likely," replied her medical adviser, "but you are missing health now, and will soon lose it altogether if you do not." Dr. Stenhouse, of Liverpool, once made a careful analysis of a sample pack- age of black tea, which was found to contain " some pure Congo tea leaves, also sitt- ings of Pekoe and inferior kinds, weighing together twenty-seven per cent of the whole. The remaining seventy-three per cent was composed of the following sub- stances : Iron, plumbago, chalk. China-clay, sand, Prussian-blue, tumeric, indigo, starch, gypsum, catechu, gum, the leaves of the camelia, sarangua, Chlorantes offici- nalis., elm, oak, willow, poplar, elder, beach, hawthorn, and sloe." MILK. llHEMICALLY considered, the constituents of milk arc Jip^ nitrogenous matter (consisting of casein and a small iWcyii proportion of albumen), fat, sugar of milk, mineral mat- i^ <■ ter, and water, the last constituting from sixty-five to ninety per cent of the whole. The proportion of these elements varies greatly in the milk of different animals of the same species and of the same animals at different times, so that it is not possible to give an exact analysis. The analysis of an average specimen of cow's milk, accord- ing to Letheby, is : — Nitrogenous matter 4. 1 Fat 3.9 Sugar of milk 5.2 Mineral matter 0.8 Water 86.0 If a drop of milk be examined with a microscope, it will be seen as a clear liquid, holding in suspension a large number of [364] MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 365 minute globules, which give the milk its opacity or white color. These microscopic globules are composed of fatty matter, each surrounded by an envelope of casein, the principal nitrogenous element found in milk. They are lighter than the surrounding liquid, and when the milk remains at rest, they gradually rise to the top and form cream. Casein, unlike albumen, is not coagulated by heat ; hence when milk is cooked, it undergoes no noticeable change, save the coagulation of the very small amount of albumen it contains, which, as it solidifies, rises to the top, carrying with it a small portion of the sugar and saline matter and some of the fat globules, forming a skin-like scum upon the surface. Casein, although not coagulable by heat, is coagulated by the introduction into the milk of acids or extract of rennet. The curd of cheese is coagulated casein. When milk is allowed to stand for some time exposed to warmth and air, a spontaneous coagulation occurs, caused by fermentative changes in the sugar of milk, by which it is con- verted into lactic acid through the action of germs. Milk is sometimes adulterated by water, the removal of more or less of the cream, or the addition of some foreign sub- stance to increase its density. The quality of milk is more or less influenced by the food upon which the animal is fed. Watery milk may be produced by feeding a cow upon sloppy food. The milk of diseased animals should never be used for food. There is no way by which such milk can invariably be de- tected, but Prof. Vaughan, of Michigan University, notes the following kinds of milk to be avoided: " i. Milk which be- comes sour and curdles within a few hours after it has been drawn, and before any cream forms on its surface. This is known in some sections as 'curdly' milk, and it comes from cows with certain inflammatory affections of the udder, or digestive diseases, or those which have been overdriven or worried. 2. ' Bitter-sweet milk' has cream of a bitter taste, is covered with 'blisters,' and frequently with a fine mold. But- ter and cheese made from such milk cannot be eaten on ac- count of the disagreeable taste. 3. ' Slimy milk' can be drawn 366 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. out into fine, ropy fibers. It has an unpleasant taste, which is most marked in the cream. The causes which lead to the secretion of this milk are not known. 4. 'Blue milk' is char- acterized by the appearance on its surface, eighteen or twenty- four hours after it is drawn, of small, indigo-blue spots, which rapidly enlarge until the whole surface is covered with a blue film. If the milk be allowed to stand a few days, the blue is converted into a greenish or reddish color. This coloration of the milk is due to the growth of microscopic organisms. The butter made from 'blue milk' is dirty-white, gelatinous, and bitter. 5. 'Barnyard milk' is a term used to designate milk taken from unclean animals, or those which have been kept in filthy, unventilated stables. The milk absorbs and carries the odors, which are often plainly perceptible. Such milk may not be poisonous, but it is repulsive." There is no doubt that milk often serves as the vehicle for the distribution of the germs of various contagious diseases, like scarlet fever, diphtheria, and typhoid fever, from becoming contaminated in some way, either from the hands of milkers or from water used as an adulterant or in cleansing the milk vessels. Recent investigations have also shown that cows are subject to scarlet fever and tuberculosis, the same as human beings, and that milk from infected cows will produce the same disease in the consumer. Milk should not be kept in brass or copper vessels or in earthenware lined with lead glazing ; for if the milk becomes acid, it is likely to unite with the metal and form a poisonous compound. Glass and granite ware are better materials in which to keep milk. Milk should never be allowed to stand uncovered in an occupied room, especially a sitting-room or bedroom, as its dust is likely to contain disease-germs, which, falling into the milk, may become a source of serious illness to the consumer. Indeed it is safest to keep milk covered whenever set away, to exclude the germs which are at all times present in the air. A good way is to protect the dishes containing milk with several layers of cheese-cloth, which will permit the air Jbut MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 367 not the germs to circulate in and out of the pans. Neither should it be allowed to stand where there are strong odors, as it readily takes up by absorption any odors to which it is exposed. A few years ago Dr. Dougall, of Glasgow, made some very interesting experiments on the absorbent properties of milk. He inclosed in jars a portion of substances giving off emana- tions, with a uniform quantity of milk, in separate vessels, for a period of eight hours, at the end of which time samples of the milk were drawn off and tested. The result was that milk exposed to the following substances retained odors as de- scribed : — Coal gas, distinct ; paraffine oil, strong ; turpentine, very strong; onions, very strong; tobacco smoke, very strong; ammonia, moderate ; musk, faint ; asafetida, distinct ; creo- sote, strong ; cheese (stale), distinct ; chloroform, moderate ; putrid fish, very bad ; camphor, moderate ; decayed cabbage, distinct. These facts clearly indicate that if the emanations to which milk is exposed are of a diseased and dangerous quality, it is all but impossible that the milk can remain free from dangerous properties. Too much pains cannot be taken in the care of milk and vessels containing it. Contact with the smallest quantity of milk which has undergone fermentation will sour the whole ; hence the necessity for scrupulous cleanliness of all vessels which have contained milk before they are used again for that purpose. In washing milk dishes, many persons put them first into scalding water, by which means the albumen in the milk is coagulated ; and if there are any crevices or seams in the pans or pails, this coagulated portion is likely to adhere to them like glue, and becoming sour, will form the nucleus for spoiling the next milk put into them. A better way is first to rinse each separately in cold water, not pouring the water from one pan to another, until there is not the slightest milky appearance in the water, then wash in warm suds, or water containing sal-soda, 368 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. and afterward scald thoroughly ; wipe perfectly dry, and place if possible where the sun will have free access to them until they are needed for further use. If sunshine is out of the ques- tion, invert the pans or cans over the stove, or place for a few moments in a hot oven. The treatment of milk varies with its intended use, whether whole or separated from the cream. Cream rises best when the milk is quite warm or when near the freezing-point. In fact, cream separates more easily from milk at the freezing-point than any other, but it is not thick and never becomes so. An intermediate state seems to be unfavorable to a full rising of the cream. A temperature of 56° to 60° F. is a good one. Milk to be used whole should be kept at about 45° and stirred frequently. All milk obtained from city milkmen or any source not cer- tainly known to be free from disease-germs, should be sterilized before using. Indeed, it is safest always to sterilize milk be- fore using, since during the milking or in subsequent handling and transportation it is liable to become infected with germs. To Sterilize Milk for Immediate Use. — Put the milk as soon as received into the inner dish of a double boiler, the outer vessel of which should be filled with boiling water. Cover and heat the milk rapidly. Slow heating makes it liable to become sour. Allow it to remain with the water in the outer boiler actively boiling for half an hour, then remove from the stove and cool very quickly. This may be accomplished by pouring into shallow dishes, and placing these in cold water, changing the water as frequently as it becomes warm, or by using pieces of ice in the water. It is especially important to remember that the temperature of the milk should be raised as rapidly as possible, and when the milk is sufficiently cooked, cooled very quickly. Either very slow heating or slow cooling may prove disastrous, even when every other precaution is taken. Or, well-cleaned glass fruit cans may be nearly filled with milk, the covers screwed on loosely, then placed in a kettle of cold water, gradually heated to boiling and kept at that tempera- ture for a half hour or longer, then gradually cooled. Or, per- MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER, 369 fectly clean bottles may be filled with milk to within two inches of the top, the neck tightly closed with a wad of cotton, and the bottles placed in a steam cooker, the water in which should be cold at the start, and steamed for half an hour. This cooking of milk, while it destroys many of the germs contained in milk, particularly the active disease-germs which are liable to be found in it, thus rendering it more wholesome, and improving its keeping qualities somewhat, does not so com- pletely sterilize the milk that it will not undergo fermentative changes. Under varying conditions some thirty or forty dif- ferent species of germs are to be found in milk, some of which require to be subjected to a temperature above that of boiling water, in order to destroy them. An examination of milk as supplied by the city dealers in Bos- ton some time since showed the average number of germs to the drop to be 160,000. Examination of the milk supply in various other places has shown a much higher number. Not all such germs are capable of producing definite disease, as tuberculosis or typhoid fever, although it is well recognized that these dis- orders are often communicated through the use of milk ; they are nevertheless undoubtedly the occasion of various digestive dis- turbances, a productive source of poisons the absorption of which gives rise to a variety of disagreeable feelings. Various nuts, as almonds, filberts, and cocoanuts furnish prod- ucts which make excellent substitutes for milk, and which can be utilized in cooking in nearly all recipes where milk is needed. These milk substitutes approach very closely the same composi- tion as cows' milk, thus affording equal nourishment, while they have the advantage of being perfectly clean and free from germs. Recipes for their preparation are given elsewhere. Condensed Milk. — Condensed milk is made by evapo- rating milk in a vacuum to one fifth its original volume ; it is then canned like any other food by sealing at boiling tempera- ture in air-tight cans. When used, it should be diluted with five times its bulk of warm water. Condensed milk, when not thoroughly boiled in the process of condensation, is liable to harbor disease-germs the same as any other milk. 24 3/0 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. CREAM. Cream varies in composition according to the circumstances under which it rises. The composition of an average specimen as given by Leth- erby is : — Nitrogenous matter 2.7 Fat 26. 7 Sugar of milk 28 Mineral matter 1.8 Water 66.0 In the process of churning, the membranes of casein which surround each of the little globules constituting the cream are broken, and the fat of \Vhich they are composed becomes a compact mass known as butter. The watery looking residue containing casein, sugar of milk, mineral matter, and a small proportion of fat, comprises the buttermilk. Skim-mifk, or milk from which the cream has been re- moved, and buttermilk are analogous in chemical compo- sition. The composition of each, according to Dr. Edward Smith, is : — SKIM-MILK. Nitrogenous matter 4.0 Sugar 3.8 Fat 1.8 Mineral matter 0.8 Water 88.0 BUTTERMILK. Nitrogenous matter 4. i Sugar 3.6 Fat o. 7 Mineral matter 0.8 Water 88.0 Skim-milk and buttermilk, when the butter is made from sweet cream and taken fresh, are both excellent foods, although lacking the fat of new milk. Cream is more easily digested than butter, and since it contains other elements besides fat, is likewise more nutritious. In cream the fat is held in the form of an emulsion which MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 371 allows it to mingle freely with water. As previously stated, each atom of fat is surrounded with a film of casein. Thus emulsified, and thus miscible with the stomach contents, the little particles of fat are carried to the small intestines, where the pancreatic juice digests them, and on their way they do not interfere with the stomach digestion of other foods, as the presence of butter and other fats not emulsified are very liable to do. It is because of its greater wholesomeness that in the directions for the preparation of foods given in this work we have given preference to the use of cream over that of butter and other free fats. The usual ob- jection to its use is its expense, and the difficulty of obtaining it from city dealers. The law of supply and cost generally corre- sponds with that of demand, and doubtless cream would prove no exception if its use were more general. Cream may be sterilized and preserved in a pure state for some time, the same as milk. Milk requires especial care to secure a good quality and quantity of cream. Scrupulous cleanliness, good ventilation, and an unvarying temperature are absolute essentials. The common custom of setting milk in pans is objectionable, not only because of the dust and germs always liable to fall into the milk, but also from the difficulty of keeping milk thus set at the proper temperature for cream-rising. Every family using, milk in any quantity ought to have a set of creameries of large or small capacity according to circumstances, in which the milk supply can be kept in a pure, wholesome condition, and so arranged as to facilitate the full rising of the cream if desired. A very simple and satisfactory creamery, with space for ice around the milk, similar to that represented in the ac- companying cut, may be constructed by any tinman. Creamery. 372 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. The plan of scalding milk to facilitate the rising of the cream is excellent, as it not only secures a more speedy rising, but serves to destroy the germs found in the milk, thus lessen- ing its tendency to sour. The best way to do this is to heat the milk in a double boiler, or a dish set inside another con- taining hot water, to a temperature of 150° to 165° F. as in- dicated by wrinkles upon its surface. The milk must not, however, be allowed to come to a boil. When scalded, it should be cooled at once to a temperature of about 60° F. and kept thus during the rising, of the cream. BUTTER. Of all animal foods wholly composed of fat, good fresh butter is the best. Vegetable fats, especially the fat of nuts, is far preferable to animal fats in any form. Even vegetable fats are not easy of digestion, however, when taken in a separate state, as in the form of an oil. If exposed to great heat, as on hot buttered toast, meats, rich pastry, etc., butter is quite indigestible. We do not recommend its use either for the table or for cooking purposes when cream can be obtained, since butter is rarely found in so pure a state that it is not undergoing more or less decomposition, depending upon its age and the amount of casein retained in the butter through the carelessness of the manufacturer. Casein, on exposure to air in a moist state, rapidly changes into a ferment, which, acting upon the fatty matter of the but- ter, produces rancidity, rendering the butter more or less un- wholesome. Poor, tainted, or rancid butter should not be used as food in any form. Good butter is pale yellow, uniform throughout the whole mass, and free from rancid taste or odor. White lumps in it are due to the incorporation of sour milk with the cream from which it was produced. A watery, milk-like fluid exuding from the freshly cut surface of butter, is evidence that it was not well washed. Such butter spoils quickly. The flavor and color of butter vary considerably, according to the breed and food of the animal from which the milk was MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 373 obtained. An artificial color is often given to butter by the use of a preparation of annatto. Both salt and saltpeter are employed as preservatives for butter ; a large quantity of the former is often used to increase the weight of the butter. Artificial Butter. — -Various fraudulent preparations are sold as butter. Oleomargarine, one of the commonest, is made from tallow or beef-fat, cleaned and ground like sausage, and heated, to separate the oil from the membranes. It is then known as " butter-oil," is salted, cooled, pressed, and churned in milk, colored with annatto, and treated the same as butter. Butterine, another artificial product, is prepared by mixing butter-oil and a similar oil obtained from lard, then churning them with milk. An eminent analyst gives the following excellent way of distinguishing genuine butter from oleomargarine: — "When true butter is heated over a clear flame, it 'browns' and gives out a pleasant odor, — that of browned butter. In heating there is more or less sputtering, caused by minute par- ticles of water retained in washing the butter. On the bottom of the pan or vessel in which true butter is heated, a yellowish- brown crust is formed, consisting of roasted or toasted casein. When oleomargarine is heated under similar circumstances, it does not 'brown,' but becomes darker by overheating, and when heated to dryness, gives off a grayish steam, smelling of tallow. There is no 'sputtering' when it is being heated, but it boils easily. If a pledget of cotton or a wick saturated with oleomargarine be set on fire and allowed to burn a few mo- ments before being extinguished, it will give out fumes which are very characteristic, smelling strongly of tallow, while true butter behaves very differently." Butter in Ancient Times. — Two kinds of butter seem to have been known to the ancient Jews, one quite like that of the present day, except that it was boiled after churning, so that it became in that warm climate practically an oil ; the other, a sort of curdled milk. The juice of the Jerusalem arti- choke was mixed with the milk, when it was churned until 374 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. a sort of curd was separated. The Oriental method of churn- ing was by putting the milk into a goat-skin and swinging and shaking the bag until the butter came, as illustrated in the accompanying cut. An article still sold as butter in Athens is made by boiling the milk of goats, allowing it to sour, and then churning in a goat-skin. The result is a thick, white, foamy substance ap- pearing more like cream than butter. Butter -Making. — The manufacture of good butter is de- pendent upon good cows and the care given them, as well as most careful treatment of the milk and cream. The milk to be used for butter making, as indeed for all purposes, should be most carefully strained through a wire strainer cov- ered with three or four thicknesses of perfectly clean cheese cloth. The following points given by an experienced dairyman will be found worthy of consideration by all who have to do with the manufacture of this article : — "Milk is almost as sensitive to atmospheric changes as mer- cury itself It is a question among many as to what depth milk should be set to get the most cream. It does not make so much difference as to the depth as it does the protection of ^■'J --•J^ Oriental Butter-Making. MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 375 the milk from acid or souring. As soon as the milk begins to sour, the cream ceases to rise. " With a clear, dry atmosphere the cream will rise clean in the milk ; but in that condition of the atmosphere which readily sours the milk, the cream will not rise clean, but seems to hang in the milk, and this even when the milk is protected by being set in water. " The benefit of setting milk in cold water is that the water protects the milk from becoming acid until the cream has time to rise. For cream to rise readily on milk set in cold water, the atmosphere in the room should be warmer than the water- As much cream will rise on milk set in cold water in one hour as on milk not set in water in twenty-four hours. The milk should be skimmed while sweet, and the cream thoroughly stirred at each skimming. " Cream skimmed from different milkings, if churned at the same time in one churn, should be mixed eight to ten hours before churning ; then the cream will all come alike. "The keeping qualities of butter depend principally upon two things : First, the buttermilk must be all gotten out ; and secondly, the grain of the butter should be kept as perfect as possible. Butter should not be allowed to be churned after it has fairly come, and should not be gathered compactly in the churn in taking out, but the buttermilk should be drained from the butter in the churn, through a hair sieve, letting the butter remain in the churn. Then take water and turn it upon the butter with sufficient force to pass through the butter, and in sufficient quantity to rinse the buttermilk all out of the butter. With this process of washing the butter the grain is not in- jured or mashed, and is thus far kept perfect. And in working in the salt the ladle or roll or worker, whatever it is, should never be allowed to slip on the butter, — if it does, it will de- stroy the grain, — but it should go upon the butter in a press- ing or rolling motion." Test the temperature of the cream with a thermometer, and churn it at 60° in summer and 62° in winter. If the butter is soft, it may be hardened by pouring onto it while work- 376 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. ing a brine made lay dissolving a pint of salt in ten quarts of water. The salt used in the butter should be carefully measured, three fourths of an ounce of salt to the pound being the usual allowance. Butter, like milk, absorbs odors readily, and should never be allowed to remain in occupied rooms or any place exposed to strong or foul odors, but be kept covered in a cold place. CHEESE. Cheese is a product of milk prepared by separating the casein, with more or less of the cream, according to the man- ner in which it has been prepared, from the other ingredients of the milk. It is an article, which, although possessing a large proportion of nutritive material, is very difficult of digestion, and the use of which is very questionable, not only for this reason, but because it is very liable to contain a poison called tyrotoxicon, capable of producing most violent and indeed fatal results, according to the remarkable researches of Prof Vaughan of Michigan University. This poison is sometimes found in ice cream and custards, cream-puffs, etc., made from stale milk or cream. It is much better to use milk in its fresh, natural state than in any of its products. Made into either butter or cheese, we lose some of its essential elements, so that what is left is not a perfect food. RECIPES. Hot Milk. — Milk is more easily digested when used hot. This is not due to any marked chemical change in the milk, but to the stimulating effect of heat upon the palate and stomach. To prepare hot milk, heat it in a double boiler until a wrinkled skin appears upon the surface. In the double boiler it may be kept at the proper temperature for a long time without diflSculty, and thus prepared is more palatable than when boiled. Milk, either cold or hot, should be taken a few sips only at a time, and not be drank in copious draughts when used in connection with other foods at mealtime. It will then coagulate in the stomach in small flakes much more easily digested than the large mass resulting when a large quantity is swallowed at a time. MILK, CREAM, AND BUTTER. 377 DcTOnshire or Clotted Cream. — This is prepared as follows : Strain the milk as it comes fresh from the cow into a deep pan which will fit tightly over a kettle in which water can be boiled, and set away in a cool well-ventilated place, where it should be allowed to remain undisturbed from eight to twelve hours or longer. Then take the pan up very care- fully so as not to disturb the cream, place over a kettle of water, heat to near the boiling point, or until a rim of bubbles half an inch wide forms all around the dish of milk. It must not, however, be allowed to boil, or the cream will be injured. Now lift the pan again with equal care back to a cool place and allow it to stand from twelve to twenty-four hours longer. The cream should be a compact mass of considerable thickness, and may be divided with a knife into squares of convenient size before skimming. It is delicious for use on fruit and grains. Cottage Cheese. — This dish is usually prepared from milk which has curdled from lack of proper care, or from long standing exposed to the air, and which is thus in some degree decomposing. But the fact that the casein of milk is coagulated by the use of acids makes it possible to pre- pare this dish in a more wholesome manner without waiting for decompo- sition of the milk. Add to each four quarts of milk one cupful of lemon juice ; let it stand until coagulated, then heat slowly, but do not boil, until the curd has entirely separated from the whey. Turn the whole into a colander lined with a square of clean cheese cloth, and drain off the whey. Add to the curd a little salt and cream, mix all together with a. spoon or the hands, and form into cakes or balls for the table. The use of lemon gives a delicious flavor, which may be intensified, if desired, by using a trifle of the grated yellow rind. Cottage Cheese from Buttermilk. — Place a pail of fresh buttermilk in a kettle of boiling water, taking care to have sufficient water to come up even with the milk in the pail. Let the buttermilk remain until it is heated throughout to about 140°, which can be determined by keeping a ther- mometer in the milk and stirring it frequently. When it is sufficiently heated, empty the curd into strong muslin bags and hang up to drain for several hours. If properly scalded and drained, the curd will be quite dry and may be seasoned and served the same as other cottage cheese. If scalded too much, it will be watery. Cottage Cheese with Sour Milk. — Take a pan of newly-loppered thick sour milk, and place it over a kettle of boiling water until the whey sepa- rates from the curd, breaking and cutting the curd as the milk becomes warmed, so as to allow the whey to settle. The milk should be well scalded, but not allowed to boil, as that will render the curd tough and leathery. Have ready a clean piece of cheese cloth spread inside a col- ander, dip the curd into it, and leave it to drain. If preferred, the corners 37^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. of the cloth may be tied with a string, thus forming a bag in which the cheese may be hung up to drain. When well drained, remove the dry curd to a dish, rub it fine with the hands, add salt, and season with sweet cream, beating it well through the curd with a silver fork. It may be shaped into balls with the hands or pressed in large cups or bowls. French Butter. — Fill a large, wide-mouthed glass bottle or jar about half full of thick sweet cream. Cork tightly, and with one end of the bottle in each hand shake it vigorously back and forth until the butter has separated from the milk, which it will generally do in a few minutes. Work out the buttermilk, make into small pats, and place on ice until ready to serve. As a rule this butter is not washed or salted, as it is intended for immediate use. Shaken Milk. — Fit a conical tin cup closely over a glass of milk and shake it vigorously until all of a foam, after which it should be slowly sipped at once ; or a glass of milk may be put into a quart fruit can, the cover tightly screwed on, and then shaken back and forth until the milk is foamy. TABLE TOPICS. A LITTLE six-year-old boy went into the country visiting. About the first thing he got was a bowl of bread and milk. He tasted it, and then hesitated a moment, when his mother asked if he didn't like it ; to which he replied, smacking his lips, "Yes, ma'am. I was only wishing that our milkman in town would keep a cow ! " When Horace Greeley was candidate for the presidency, he at one time visited New Orleans, .whose old Creole residents gave him a dinner ; and to make it as fine an affair as possible, each of the many guests was laid under contribution for some of the rarest wines in his cellar. When dinner was announced, and the first course was completed, the waiter appeared at Mr. Greeley's seat with a plate of shrimp. " You can take them away," he said to the waiter, and then added to the horrified French Creole gentleman who presided, " I never eat insects of any kind." Later on, soup was served, and at the same time a glass of white wine was placed at Mr. Greeley's right hand. He pushed it quietly away, but not unobserved by the chief host. " Do you not drink wine ? " he asked. " No," answered Mr. Greeley ; "I never drink any liquors." "Is there anything you would like to drink with your soup?" the host then asked, a little disappointed. " If you 've got it," answered Mr. Greeley, " and it is n't any trouble, I 'd like a glass of fresh buttermilk. ' ' Said the host afterward in his broken English, " Ze idea of electing to ze presi- dency a man vot drink buttermilk vis his soup ! " Old friendships are often destroyed by toasted cheese, and hard salted meat has often led to suicide. — Sydney Smith. A German sitting beside a Spanish officer on board a Havana steamer, was munching Limberger cheese with evident satisfaction when it occurred to him that he ought to offer some to his neighbor, who very coolly declined. "You think it unhealthful to eat that ? " inquired the German in polite astonishment. " Unhealth- ful ?" exclaimed the Hidalgo, with a withering look and a gasp for a more adequate word ; "No, sir : I think it an unnatural crime ! "^Oswald. Good for Dyspepsia. — "Really, don't you think cheese is good for dyspep- sia ?" said an advocate of the use of this common article of food. "Why, my uncle had dyspepsia all his life, and he took a bit of cheese at the close of every meal ! " Mattieu Williams tells us, " When common sense and true sentiment supplant mere unreasoning prejudice, vegetable oils and vegetable fats will largely supplant those of animal origin in every element of our dietary." [379] j. S will be seen from the analysis given below, an egg is '^lllmf particularly rich in nitrogenous elements. It is indeed W one of the most highly concentrated forms of nitroge- i^jsr^ nous food, about one third of its weight being solid nu- triment, and for this reason is often found serviceable in cases of sickness where it is desirable to secure a large amount of nourishment in small bulk. COMPOSITION OF THE WHITE OF AN ORDINARY HEN'S EGG. Nitrogenous matter 20.4 Fatty matter lo.o Mineral matter' 1.6 Water 68.0 COMPOSITION OF THE YOLK. Nitrogenous matter iC.o Fatty matter 30. 7 Mineral matter I.3 Water 52.0 The white of egg is composed mainly of albumen in a dis- solved state, inclosed in layers of thin membrane. When beat- en, the membranes are broken, and the liberated albumen, owing [380] EGGb. 381 to its visoous or glutinous nature, entangles and retains a large amount of air, thus increasing to several times its original bulk. The yolk contains all the fatty matter, and this, with a modi- fied form of albumen called vitellin, forms a kind of yellow emulsion. It is inclosed in a thin membrane, which separates it from the surrounding white. The yolk, being lighter than the white, floats to that por- tion of the egg which is uppermost, but is held in position by two membranous cords, one from each end of the egg. The average weight of an egg is about two ounces, of which ten per cent consists of shell, sixty of white, and thirty of yolk. How to Choose Eggs. — The quality of eggs varies con- siderably, according to the food upon which the fowls are fed. Certain foods communicate distinct flavors, and it is quite probable that eggs may be rendered unwholesome through the use of filthy or improper food ; hence it is always best, when practicable, to ascertain respecting the diet and care of the fowls before purchasing eggs. On no account select eggs about the freshness of which there is any reason to doubt. The use of stale eggs may result in serious disturbances of the digestive organs. An English gentleman who has investigated the subject quite thoroughly, finds upon careful microscopical examina- tion that stale eggs often contain cells of a peculiar fungoid growth, which seems to have developed from that portion of the egg which would have furnished material for the flesh and bones of the chick had the process of development been con- tinued. Experiments with such eggs upon dogs produce poi- sonous effects. There are several ways of determining with tolerable accu- racy respecting the freshness of an egg. A common test is to place it between the eye and a strong light. If fresh, the white will appear translucent, and the outline of the yolk can be distinctly traced. By keeping, eggs become cloudy, and when decidedly stale, a distinct, dark, cloud-like appearance maybe discerned opposite some portion of the shell. Another test is to shake the egg gently at the ear ; if a gurgle or thud 382 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. is heard, the egg is bad. Again, eggs may be tested by drop- ping into a vessel containing a solution of salt and water, in the proportion of a tablespoonful to a quart. Newly laid eggs will sink ; if more than six days old, they will float in the liquid ; if bad, they will be so light as to ride on the surface of the brine. The shell of a freshly laid egg is almost full ; but ow- ing to the porous character of the shell, with age and exposure to air a portion of the liquid substance of which the egg is composed evaporates, and air accumulates in its place at one of the extremities of the shell. Hence an egg loses in density from day to day, and the longer the egg has been kept, the lighter it becomes, and the higher it will rise in the liquid. An egg that will float on the surface of the liquid is of too questionable a character to be used without breaking, and is apt to be unfit for use at all. Ho^w to Keep Eggs. — To preserve the interior of an egg in its natural state, it is necessary to seal the pores of the shell air-tight, as the air which finds its way into the egg through the pores of the shell causes gradual decomposition. Various methods are devised to exclude the air and thus pre- serve the egg. A good way is to dip perfectly fresh eggs into a thick solution of gum-arabic, — equal parts of gum and water, — let the eggs dry and dip them again, taking care that the shells are entirely covered with the solution each time. When dry, wrap separately in paper and pack in a box of sawdust, bran, salt, or powdered charcoal, and cover tightly to keep out the air. There is a difference of opinion as to which end should be placed down in packing ; most authorities recommend the smaller end. However, an experienced poultryman offers the following reasons for packing with the larger end down : "The air-chamber is in the larger end, and if that is placed down, the yolk will not break through and touch the shell and thereby spoil. Another thing : if the air-chamber is down, the egg is not so liable to shrink away." It would be well for housekeepers to make the test by packing eggs from the same lot each way and noting the result. EGGS. 383 Melted wax or suet may be used to coat the shells. Eggs are sometimes immersed and kept in a solution of lime water, a pound of lime to a gallon of cold water, or simply packed in bran or salt, without a previous coating of fat or gum. By any of these methods they will keep for several weeks. Eggs, however, readily absorb flavors from surrounding substances, and for that reason lime water or salt solution are somewhat objectionable. Nothing of a disagreeable odor should be placed near eggs. Eggs for boiling may be preserved by placing in a deep pan, and pouring scalding water over them. Let them stand half a minute, drain off the water, and repeat the process two or three times. Wipe dry, and when cool, pack in bran. Eggs should be kept in a cool, not cold, place and handled carefully, as rough treatment may cause the mingling of the yolk and white by rupturing the membrane which separates them ; then the ep^cf will spoil quickly. The time required for the digestion of a perfectly cooked egg varies from three to four hours. It is generally conceded that eggs lightly cooked are most readily digested. What is generally termed a hard-boiled egg is not easily acted upon by the digestive juices, and any other manner of cooking by which the albumen becomes hardened and solid offers great resistance to digestion. To Beat Eggs. — This may seem trivial, but no dish requir- ing eggs can be prepared in perfection, unless they are properly beaten, even if every other ingredient is the best. An egg- beater or an egg-whip is the most convenient utensil for the purpose ; but if either of these is not to be had, a silver fork will do very well, and with this the beating should be done in sharp, quick strokes, dipping the fork in and out in rapid suc- cession, while the egg should grow firmer and stiffer with every stroke. When carelessly beaten, the result will be a coarse and frothy instead of a thick and cream-like mass. Use a bowl in beating eggs with an egg-beater, and a plate when a fork or egg-whip is employed. If the white and yolk are used separately, break the shells gently about the middle, opening slowly so as to let the white 384 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. fall into the dish, while retaining the yolk in one half of the shell. If part of the white remains, turn the yolk from the one half to the other till the white has fallen. Beat the yolks until they change from their natural orange color to a much lighter yellow. The whites should be beaten until firm and dry enough not to fall from the bowl if turned upside down. The yolk should always be beaten first, since, if the white is left to stand after being beaten, a portion of the air, which its vis- cous nature allows it to catch up, escapes and no amount of beating will render it so firm a second time. Eggs which need to be washed before breaking should always be wiped perfectly dry, that no water may become mingled with the egg, as the water may dilute the albumen sufficiently to prevent the white from becoming firm and stiff when beaten. In cold weather, it is sometimes difficult to beat the whites as stiff as desirable. Albumen is quite susceptible to tempera- ture, and this difficulty may be overcome by setting the dish in which the eggs are beaten into warm water — not hot by any means — during the process of beating. In very hot weather it is often advantageous to leave the eggs in cold or ice water for a short time before beating. When a number of eggs are to be used, always break each by itself into a saucer, so that any chance stale egg may not spoil the whole. If the white or yolk of an egg is left over, it may be kept for a day or two if put in a cool place, the yolk thoroughly beaten, the white unbeaten. REC/PES. Eggs in Shell. — The usual method of preparing eggs for serving in this way is to put them into boihng water, and boil or simmer until they are considered sufficiently cooked. Albumen, of which the white of the egg is composed, is easiest digested when simply coagulated. The yolk, if cooked at all, is easiest digested when dry and mealy. Albumen coagu- lates at 160°, and when the boiling point is reached, it becomes hard- ened, tough, and leathery, and very difficult of digestion. If the egg were all albumen, it might be easily and properly cooked by dropping into boil- ing water, allowing it to remain for a few seconds, and removing it, since the shell of the egg would prevent its becoming sufficiently heated EGGS. 385 in so short a time as to become hardened ; but the time necessary to cook properly the white of tlie egg would be insufficient for the heat to penetrate to and cook the yolk ; and if it is desirable to cook the yolk hard, the cooking process should be carried on at a temperature below the boil- ing point, subjecting the egg to a less degree of heat, but for a longer time. The most accurate method is to put the eggs into water of a temperature of 160°, allowing them to remain for ten minutes and not permitting the temperature of the water to go above 165°. Cooked in this way, the white will be of a soft, jelly-like consistency throughout, while the yolks will be hard. If it is desired to have the yolks dry and mealy, the tem- perature of the water must be less, and the time of cooking lengthened. We have secured the most perfect results with water at a temperature of 150°, and seven hours ' cooking. The temperature of the water can be easily tested by keeping in it an ordinary thermometer, and if one pos- sesses a kerosene or gas stove, the heat can be easily regulated to maintain the required temperature. Another method, although less sure, is to pour boiling water into a saucepan, draw it to one side of the range where it will keep hot, but not boil, put in the eggs, cover, and let stand for twenty minutes. If by either method it is desired to have the yolk soft-cooked, lessen the time to ten minutes or so, according to the hardness desired. Eggs are best served as soon as done, as the white becomes more solid by being kept in a hot shell. It should be remarked that the time necessary to cook eggs in the shell will vary somewhat with the iirmness of the shell, the size of the eggs, and the number cooked together. 'Eggs in Sunshine. — Take an earthenware dish which will stand heat and also do to use in serving the eggs. Oil it and break therein as many eggs as desired ; sprinkle lightly with salt, and put into the oven for two or more minutes till the eggs are set. Have ready some hot tomato sauce prepared as for Tomato Toast ; pour the sauce over them, and serve. Eggs Poached in Tomatoes. — Take a pint of stewed tomatoes, cooked until they are homogeneous or which have been rubbed through a colander ; season with salt if desired, and heat. When just beginning to boil, slip in gently a half dozen eggs, the shells of which have been so carefully broken that the yolks are intact. Keep the tomato just below the boiling point until the eggs are cooked. Lift the whites carefully with a fork as they cook, until they are firm, then prick them and let the yellow mix with the tomato and the whites. The whole should be quite soft when done, but showing the red of the tomatoes and the white and yellow of the eggs quite distinctly. Serve on toast. If the flavor is agreeable, a little onion minced very finely maj' be cooked with the tomatoes. 25 385 SCIEN-CE IN THE KITCHEN. Eg-gs in Cream. — Put a half cupful or more of cream into a shallow earthen dish, and„place the dish in a kettle or pan of boiling water. When the cream is hot, break in as many eggs as the bottom of the dish will hold, and cook until well set, basting them occasionally over the top with the hot cream. Or, put a spoonful or two of cream into individual egg or vegetable dishes, break a fresh egg in each, and cook in the oven or a steamer over a kettle of boiling water until the white of the egg is well set. Poached or Dropped "Eggs. — Break each egg into a saucer by itself. Have a shallow pan half filled with scalding, not boiling, water on the stove. If desired, a little salt and a tablespoonful of lemon juice may be added. Slip the eggs gently from the saucer upon the top of the water, holding the edge of the saucer under water to prevent the eggs from scattering ; dip the water over them with a spoon and let them stand five minutes, or until the yolk is covered with a film, and the white is firm but not hardened ; keep the water just below the boiling point. Take out the eggs one by one on a skimmer, and serve in egg-saucers, or on slices of nicely browned toast moistened with a little sweet cream, as preferred. If one is especially particular to keep the shape of the eggs, an egg poacher should be used, or a set of muffin-rings may be laid in the bottom of the pan, and the eggs turned into the rings. Poached Eggs with Cream Sauce. — Poach eggs as in the foregoing, and pour over them a sauce made according to directions on page 351. Quickly Prepared Eggs, — A good way to cook quickly a large number of eggs, is to use a large-bottomed earthen dish, which will stand the heat and in which the eggs may be served. Oil it well ; break the requisite number of eggs separately, and turn each carefully into the dish ; sprinkle lightly with salt ; set the dish in the oven or in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water for a few minutes until the eggs are set, then serve. Scrambled Eggs. — Beat four eggs lightly, add half a teaspoonful of salt if desired, and half a cup of milk or cream. One fourth cup of water may be used instead of the half cup of milk. Have ready a hot, oiled saucepan ; turn the eggs in and cook quickly, stirring constantly until firm, but soft. Steamed Eggs. — Break eggs into egg or vegetable dishes or patty- pans, salt very lightly, and set in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water until the whites are set and a film has formed over the yolk. Serve the same as poached eggs, with or without toast. Whirled Eggs. — Have a small kettle of water heated almost to boil- ing, and with a wooden spoon, stir it rapidly round and round in the same direction until a miniature whirlpool is produced. Have ready some eggs broken in separate cups, and drop them carefully one at a time into the whirling water, the stirring of which must be kept up until the egg is a soft round ball. Remove with a skimmer, and serve on cream toast. EGGS. 3S7 OMELETS. RECIPES. Plain Omelett — Beat the yolks of three eggs to a cream and beat the whites to a stiff froth. Add to the yolks three tablespoonfuls of milk or_ cream, one tablespoonful of finely grated bread crumbs, and season lightly with salt ; lastly, fold, not stir, the whites lightly in. An omelet pan is the best utensil for cooking, but if that is not to be had, an earthen-ware pudding dish which will stand the heat is good ; an iron spider will do, but a larger omelet would need to be prepared. A tin saucepan is apt to cook the omelet so rapidly as to burn it in spots. Whatever the utensil used, it should be hot, the fire clear and steady, and all in readiness by the time the eggs are beaten. Oil the dish well and gently pour in the omelet mixture ; cover, and place the pan on the range where the heat will be continuous. Do not stir, but carefully, as the egg sets, lift the omelet occasionally by slipping a broad-bladed knife under it, or with a fork by dipping in here and there. It should cook quickly, but not so quickly as to burn. From three to five minutes will generally be ample time. When the middle of the omelet is set, it may be put into a hot oven to dry the top. As soon as the center is dry, it should be removed immediately, as it will be hard and indigestible if overdone. To dish, loosen from the pan by running a knife under it, lay a hot platter, bottom upward, over the pan, and invert the latter so as to shake out the omelet gently, browned side uppermost ; or if preferred, double one part over the other before dishing. Serve at once, or it will fall. An omelet of three eggs is sufficient for two or three persons ; if more is desired, a second omelet of three eggs may be made. Larger ones are not so light nor so easily prepared. The dish used should be reserved for that purpose alone, and should be kept as smooth and dry as possible. It is better to keep it clean by wiping with a coarse towel than by washing, if the omelet comes from the pan perfectly whole and leaving no frag- ments behind. Foam Omelet. — Prepare as above, leaving out the white of one egg, which must be beaten to a stiff froth and spread over the top of the omelet after it is well set. Let this white just heat through by the time the ome- let is done. Fold the omelet together, and dish. The whites will burst out around the edges like a border of foam. Fancy Omelets. — Various fancy omelets may be made by adding other ingredients and preparing the same as for plain omelets. Two qi three 3S8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. tablespoonfuls of orange juice instead of milk, with a little grated rind for flavor and three tablespoonfuls of sugar, may be combined with the eggs and called an orange omelet. A little cold cauliflower or cooked asparagus chopped very fine and mixed in when the omelet is ready for the pan, may be denominated a vegetable omelet. Soft Omelet.— Beat together thoroughly one quart of milk and six eggs. Season with salt. Pour into a shallow earthen pudding dish, and bake in the oven until well set. Eggs a la Martin.*— Dust the bottom of a dish lightly with granose flakes; cover with cream sauce; and break the eggs over the cream sauce, being careful to keep each one whole. Sprinkle more granose over the eggs, and a bit of cream sauce to each egg. Set in the oven about ten minutes, or until the whites are set. Serve with parsley sauce. Gluten Olive Omelet.*— For the omelet use one teaspoonful each of twenty-per-cent gluten and ice water to every two eggs (a little more salt will be required than for plain egg omelet). Serve with ripe olives alone, or with olives in tomato sauce, or with cream sauce. TABLE TOPICS. The candidates for ancient athletic games were dieted on boiled grain, with warm water, cheese, dried figs, but no meat. An Unpleasant Reminder. — (Scene, Thanksgiving dinner, everybody com- menting on the immense size of the turkey.) An appalling silence fell upon the crov.d when Tommy cried out, "Mamma, is that the old sore-headed turkey?" The eminent Prof. Wilder was reared a vegetarian, having passed his earlier years without even knowing that flesh food was ever eaten by human beings. When six years old, he saw on the table for the first time, a roasted chicken, at which he gazed for some moments in great bewilderment, when he seemed to make a dis- covery, and in his astonishment burst out with the remark, "I'll bet that's a dead hen ! " A STORY is told of a minister who was spending the day in the country, and was invited to dine. There was chicken for dinner, much to the grief of i little boy of the household, who had lost his favorite hen to provide for the feast. After dinner, prayer was proposed, and while the preacher was praying, a poor little lonesome chicken came running under the house, crying for its absent mother. The little boy could restrain himself no longer. He put his mouth down to a hole in the floor, and shouted, " Peepy ! Peepy ! I did n't kill your mother ! They killed her for that big preacher's dinner ! " The " Amen " was said very suddenly. m- GLUTEN OLIVE OMELET PROTOSE. STEAK IN TOMATO WITH OLIVES NUTS lETETICALLY considered, nuts are a most valuable and nutritive food. They are sometimes termed shell fruit, but are more properly seeds, containing in general no starch, but rich in fat and nitrogenous elements in the form of vegetable albumin and casein. The fat, of which there is in most nuts a large percentage, is the purest and most digestible fat to be found in any food. In composition the nut thus ranks high in nutritive value, being indeed one of the most nutritious of foods, but owing to the fact that it is commonly improperly eaten either as to time or manner, it has earned the opprobrium of being largely indigestible. Now raw nuts are hard and dry and difficult of mastication. Few people eat with sufficient leisure or have teeth good enough to chew hard foods properly, and the conse- quence is that instead of being reduced to that fine cream-like con- sistency necessary for their perfect digestion, nuts are swallowed in chunks and pieces, in which form they are absolutely impervious to the digestive fluids, and can not be digested, although because of the surrounding warmth and moisture they may undergo decom- position in the alimentary canal, thereby causing serious digest- ive disturbances. Nuts should be eaten in moderation, with other food, at mealtime, and not as a tidbit between meals. It is also well to eat with them some other hard food to insure their perfect mastication. Those nuts which do not contain an 390 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. excess of fat, such as almonds, filberts, hazelnuts, and pecans, are the most wholesome. A well-known writer, speaking of their composition and digestibihty, says, " Nuts are made up of little cells, each of which has its proportion of proteids, albumin, fat, dextrine, and other constituents. When the nut is crushed, it forms a creamy mass, which readily dissolves and digests. Other fats, when entering the stomach, float upon the surface of its contents, smearing them, and hindering the action of the digestive fluids. They also contain germs which cause fermentation and decom- position, so that the contents of the stomach become rancid. But in nuts we have fats in a form in which they can, when properly masticated, pass through the stomach mingled with food, just as cream will mingle with water, without any interfer- ence with the processes of digestion in the stomach, and pass on to the small intestines where the pancreatic juice and the bile act upon them, completing the process of digestion so far as it is necessary to secure prompt absorption. The fat, being divided into small particles, is attacked by the digestive fluids at once ; whereas, fat that is taken in a fluid mass can be thus acted upon only after a long process of churning and manipulation by the stomach and intestines. "The albumin in nuts is another valuable constituent. Nuts are unquestionably the vegetable analogue of meat and other animal foods, not only containing all the food elements found in animal products, but in finer form,, more delicately flavored, and wholly free from the deleterious elements which abound in meat, and which are closely associated with all forms of animal food. All nuts are rich in albumin, so that, on an average, a pound of nuts contains as much proteid as a pound of beef- steak, and has other advantages besides." Most of the edible nuts have long been known and used as food. The almond was highly esteemed by the ancient nations of the East, its native habitat, and is frequently referred to in sacred history. It is grown extensively in the warm, temperate regions NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 391 of the Old World. There are two varieties, known as the bit- ter and the sweet almond. The kernel of the almond yields a fixed oil ; that produced from the bitter almond is much esteemed for flavoring purposes, but it is by no means a safe article to use, as it possesses marked poisonous qualities. Fresh sweet almonds are, when properly eaten, wholesome food. The outer brown skin of the kernel is somewhat bitter, rough, and irritating to the stomach, but it can easily be removed by blanching. Blanched almonds, if baked for a short time, become quite brittle, and may be easily pulverized, and are then more easily digested. Bread made from almonds thus baked and pulver- ized is considered an excellent food for persons suffering with diabetes. Brazil nuts are the seeds of a gigantic tree which grows wild in the valley of the Amazon and throughout tropical America. The case containing these seeds is a hard, woody shell, globular in form, and about the size of a man's head. It is divided into four cells, in each of which are closely packed the seeds which constitute the so-called nuts of com- merce. These seeds are exceedingly rich in oil, one pound of them producing about nine ounces of oil. The cocoanut is perhaps the most important of '.ll the nuts, if we may judge by the variety of uses to which the nut and the tree which bears it can be put. It has been said that nature seldom produces a tree so variously useful to man as the cocoa- nut palm. In tropical countries, where it grows abundantly, its leaves are employed for thatching, its fibers for manufacturing many useful articles, while its ashes produce potash in abun- dance. The fruit is eaten raw, and in many ways is prepared for food. The fat it contains serves in the place of animal fat for cooking. The milk of the fruit is a cooling beverage, and the woody shell of the nut answers very well for a cup from which to drink it. The saccharine juice of the tree also affords an excellent drink ; and from the fresh young stems is prepared a farinaceous substance similar to sago. 392 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. The cocoanuts grow in clusters drooping from the tuft oi long-fringed leaves which crown the branchless trunk of the stately palm. The cocoanut as found in commerce is the nut divested of its outer sheath, and is much smaller in size than when seen upon the tree. Picked fresh from the tree, the cocoa- nut consists first of a green outer covering, next of a fibrous coat, which, if the nut is mature, is hairy-like in appearance; and then of the woody shell, inside of which is the meat and milk. For household purposes the nuts are gathered while green, and before the inner shell has become solidified; the flesh is then soft like custard, and can be easily eaten with a teaspoon, while a large quantity of delicious, milk-like fluid is obtainable from each nut. As found in our Northern markets, the cocoanut is difficult of digestion, as is likewise the prepared or desiccated cocoanut. The cocoanut contains thirty-five and nine-tenths per cent of oil. The chestnut is an exception to most nuts in its composi- tion. It contains starch and about fifteen per cent of sugar. No oil can be extracted from the chestnut. In Italy and other parts of Southern Europe, the chestnut forms an important article of food. It is sometimes dried and ground into flour, from which bread is prepared. In Lombardy and some other portions of northern Italy, chestnut flour is used in the propor- tion of one part of chestnut flour to two parts of wheat flour, a mixture which makes excellent bread. The chestnut is a nutri- tious food, but owing to the starch it contains, is more digestible when cooked. The same is true of the acorn, which is similar in character to the chestnut. In the early ages, acorns were largely used for food, and are still used as a substitute for bread in some countries. The ancient Romans lived almost exclu- sively on chestnuts. The hazelnut, with the filbert and cobnut, varieties of the same nut obtained by cultivation, are among the most desir- able nuts for general consumption. The walnut, probably a native of Persia, where in ancient times it was so highly valued as to be considered suited only for NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 393 the table of the king, is now found very commonly with other species of the same family, the butternut and hickory nut, in most temperate climates. The pecan, a nut allied to the hickory nut, and grown exten- sively in the Mississippi Valley and Texas, is one of the most easily digested nuts. The peanut, or groundnut, is the seed of an annual, cul- tivated extensively in most tropical and subtropical countries. After the plant has blossomed, the stalk which produced the flower has the peculiarity of bending down and forcing itself under ground, so that the seeds mature some depth beneath the surface. When ripened, the pods containing the seeds are dug up and dried. In tropical countries the fresh nuts are largely consumed, and are thought greatly to resemble almonds in flavor. In this country they are more commonly roasted, but in this form are almost indigestible, for the peanut is really not a nut at all, but a legume, and requires thorough cooking after some method to render it digestible. Peanuts are, however, a very wholesome and nutritious food when properly cooked. Soups prepared from peanut flour are largely used as rations in the German army. Most nuts containing starch are more easily digested if cooked. Within the last few years a number of new processes have been discovered by which the invaluable food elements found in nuts may be advantageously utilized as food. The prepared nut foods make excellent substitutes for animal fats and flesh foods upon the daily bill of fare, and present the special advantages of being a purely vegetable product free from disease germs, of deli- cate flavors, and containing all the elements of nutrition in a form easy of digestion. The use of cooked nuts in some form is daily gaining in favor, either as a separate dish upon the menu, or as an addition to other foods. The cook in search of new and healthful dishes will find in nuts and nut preparations material for an almost numberless variety of such. 394 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. RECIPES. To Blanch Almonds. — Shell fresh sweet almonds, and pour boiling water over them ; let them stand for two or three minutes, skim out, and drop into cold water. Press between the thumb and finger, and the ker- nels will readily slip out of the brown covering. Dry between clean tow- els. Blanched almonds served with raisins make an excellent dessert. To Blanch Peanuts.— After shelling, peanuts may be blanched the same as directed for almonds; or place them on shallow dishes, and dry (not roast) in the oven, until the red skin is very dry, when it may be easily removed by rubbing in the hands with a coarse towel; or spread them upon a smooth surface, a zinc-covered table or kneading board, and roll with a rolling pin. To Keep Nuts Fresh.— Chestnuts and other thin-shelled nuts may be kept from becoming too dry by mixing with an equal bulk of dry sand and storing in a box or barrel in some cool place. Cocoanut Cream. — Cut fresh cocoanut in thin slices, and grind the nut very fine in a chopper or some strong hand mill. If nothing of this sort is available, the cocoanut may be grated. To each cup of the prepared nut add one pint of hot water, stirring and beating with a spoon to extract as much of the juice as possible. Drain off the liquid, and add a second similar quantity of hot water, and after beating again very thoroughly, strain through a thin cloth or very fine sieve, pressing ^out all the liquid possible. This may be used at once, as a substitute for milk, to be eaten with rice or other grains, or to prepare puddings and sauces. It is excel- lent served with granose flakes or eaten with zwieback. If placed on the ice for a few hours, the cream will rise to the top, and may be taken off, making a pure cocoanut butter. Nut Meal. — Chop blanched almonds, filberts, or hazelnuts fine, or crush with a rolling pin, then press through a fine colander or sieve. If the nuts have been blanched with boiling water, they must first be well dried before making into" nut meal. Hickory nuts, walnuts, pinenuts, and pecans may be pressed through a sieve or colander without blanching. Nut Pulp. — Blanch raw peanuts and introduce into boiling water in the proportion of one pint of blanched nuts to two quarts of water. Put them in an earthen jar or bean pot, allow them to come just to a boil, and bake in a slow oven, continuously if possible, for eight to ten hours, until the nuts are very soft and the water mostly evaporated. A tin oven over a kerosene lamp stove furnishes an excellent means of cooking the nuts with almost no care and expense, but the managing housewife will find it not difficult to cook ihem at the same time that a fire is needed for other purposes. NUTS AND NUr FOODS. 395 When the nuts are done, rub through a fine colander or sieve, add salt if desired, and utilize for gravies, seasoning of soups and vegetables, as a substitute for butter on bread, and for every other purpose for which a nut butter is needed. The pulp will be of a coarser grain than manu- factured nut butters, but it serves as a very fair substitute when these can not be obtained. If desired, the nuts may be lightly browned (not roasted) before cook- ing, and the product will be a very tasty food. If kept in a cool place, it will remain fresh for several days. Peanut Batter. — A nut butter mill is desirable for the preparation of nut butter at home. If one designed for the purpose is not obtainable, a coffee or hand wheat mill may be used. Blanch the nuts, but do not roast and grind. The meal thus prepared may be cooked by putting it (dry) in the inner cup of a double boiler and cooking as directed for grains, for eight or ten hours. As it is required for use, add water to make of the desired consistency, and cook again for a few min- utes, just long enough to bring out the essential oil of the nuts. Water may be added as soon as the nuts are ground, and the mixture placed in a covered bean pot and baked from eight to ten hours in a moderate oven, if preferred. Boiled Chestnuts, — The large variety known as the Italian chestnut is best for this purpose. Remove the shells, drop into boiling water, and boil for ten minutes; take out, drop into cold water, and rub off the brown skins. Have some clean water boiling, turn the blanched nuts into it, and cook until they can be pierced with a fork. Drain thoroughly, put into a hot dish, dry in the oven for a few minutes, and serve. A cream sauce or tomato sauce may be served with them if liked. Mashed Chestnuts. — Prepare and boil the chestnuts as in the preceding recipe. When tender, mash through a colander with a potato masher. Season with cream and salt if desired. Serve hot. Baked Chestnuts. — Put Italian chestnuts in the shell on a perforated tin in a rather hot oven, and bake for ten minutes, or until tender. Remove the shells, and serve hot. If preferred, they can be roasted on a clean shovel, or on a corn-popper over a bed of glowing coals. Chestnut Soup. — Use the large Italian chestnuts. Drop into boiling water, and cook in the shells from one to three quarters of an hour, then place in a hot oven, and bake for ten or fifteen minutes. The length of time required will depend upon the age of the chestnuts. They should be tender and mealy when done. Shell, and press them through a colander, add boiling water to make the soup of a proper consistency, salt to taste, and season with nuttolene. 396 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Lentil and Chestnut Soup. — Use the large Italian chestnuts. Blanch by boiling for five minutes in the shell, then dropping into cold water, and peeling. Cook one pint of the blanched nuts in boiling water until tender and mealy, then press through a fine colander or sieve. To each cup of chestnuts thus prepared, add two cups of lentils pressed through a sieve, two tablespoonfuls of onion juice, one cupful of rather thick nuttolene cream (other nut cream or dairy cream may be used), two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, and sufficient water to make of the desired consistency. Celery salt may be used if preferred. Roasted Almonds. — Blanch the almonds as directed on page 394, allow them to become well dried, then place on tins in a rather hot oven, and brown lightly. Cooked Peanuts.— Shell the raw nuts and blanch. Add to a pint of the blanched nuts about two quarts of water, put them into a bean pot, heat to boiling, then place in a slow oven and cook for nine or ten hours. When done, they should be soft and mealy and rich with juice. Peanut and Tomato Puree. — Prepare and cook peanuts as directed in the preceding recipe. When done, rub them through a colander. To three cups of peanuts add one of the strained stewed tomato, season with salt, reheat, and serve. Baked Peanuts with Tomato. — Blanch a quart of raw peanuts and cook as previously directed. An hour or so before removing from the oven, add half a cup of hot strained stewed tomato, and when tender season with salt if desired. Peanuts Baked like Beans.*— Get the Virginia shelled raw peanuts. Put in the bean pot with one and one-third to one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt to each pound of nuts, and a large quantity of boiling water. Put them where they will boil rapidly for a half hour or so, then into a very slow oven, where they will gently simmer for eight to fourteen hours. If neces- sary to add more water at any time, pour it boiling hot over them, and let it settle through them without stirring. When done, they should be a little juicy. Baked Bich Peanuts.* — Two pounds of peanuts, one-half cup of strained tomato, two tablespoonfuls of dark brown flour, scant three teaspoonfuls of salt. Bake the same as above. Baked Pignolias.* — Pour boiling water over three pounds of pignolias in a fine colander (after picking out the pieces of shell), rinse in cold water, and put into a bean pot with three large onions finely sliced, two cups of strained tomato, and four rounded teaspoonfuls of salt. Let them heat quite rapidly at first, and boil gently for a half hour, then simmer gently for ten to twelve hours. Leave just juicy for serving. NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 397 Lenti/ '^nd Nut Loaf. — Take one pint of well-cooked lentil pulp, one cup of strained stewed tomato, one and one half cups of walnut meal, a very little pulverized sage, and enough granola or crushed zwieback to make quite a stiff mixture (probably one cupful). Bake for forty minutes or longer in a moderate oven. Lentil and Nut Loaf No. 2. — To one pint of rather dry lentil pulp, add one cup of grated Brazil nuts and sufficient stale breadcrumbs to make a stiff mixture. Season with salt and sage if desired. Press into a bread tin, and bake in a slow oven one hour or longer. Savory Nut Loaf. — Take two cups of ground zwieback or granola, and one cup of walnut, pecan, or hickory-nut meal. Add one half tea- spoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of any prefeiTed herb, as pulverized sage, mint, or celery-seed, as seasoning. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and cover with rather thin nut cream, or, if preferred, boiling water may be used. Allow the mixture to stand for a few moments if granola is used, as the moisture will cause it to swell, then add enough more hot water to make the whole quite moist, turn into a bread tin, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour. It may be served hot with or without a nut dressing or tomato sauce. It is also excellent served cold in slices, with a garnish of lemon sliced thin, or with lettuce salad. Nut Meal Grain Dressing. — Moisten a cup of nut meal with a little water, then stir it into one pint of boiling water. Season with salt, and if desired of a thicker consistency, thicken with a little cornstarch. If thick- ened with browned flour, this also makes a very palatable sauce for baked potato or other vegetables. Nut KoUs. — With four cups of winter-wheat flour mix one and one half cups of nut meal, and with water as wetting proceed as for Breakfast Rolls (page 1 60). Nut Sticks. — Dough prepared in the same manner as above, after being well kneaded may be divided and shaped by rolling with the hand into a long roll about the size of the little finger. Cut into three- or four- inch lengths, and bake on perforated tins for about twenty minutes; or rolled still smaller and cut in similar lengths, may be made into nut straws. Nut Crisps. — Mix together thoroughly one and one half cups of coarse Graham flour and one half cup of nut meal. Make into a rather stiff dough with ice-cold water, knead well, roll into a sheet as thin as brown paper, cut with a knife into squares, and bake on perforated tins until lightly browned on both sides. Cocoanut Crisps. — Take two cups of winter-wheat flour and one and one half cups of desiccated cocoanut. Finely pulverize the cocoanut in a mortar, mix with the flour, and proceed as for Cream Crisps (page 161). 398 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Graham or seconds flour may be used, and by using a little more cocoanul . water may be used instead of cream. Cocoannt Corn Bread. — Scald a cupful of best granulated com meal by pouring over it a cupful of boiling water, stirring it well meanwhile. Add to this enough cocoanut cream prepared as directed on page 394 to make the meal into a batter thick enough to require spreading in the pan with a spoon. Bake half an hour or longer. Walnut Bims. — Prepare the buns after any preferred recipe, and when ready to shape, knead lightly into the dough some halves of walnut meats. When the buns are baked, brush lightly with syrup of pure sugar, and place walnut meats on the top in any desired manner. Cocoanut Corn Dressing. — Rub freshly cooked or canned corn through a colander, add a sufficient quantity of cocoanut cream prepared as directed on page 394 to make of the whole a gravy of good consistency. Add salt if desired, heat to boiling, and serve on nicely browned granose biscuits or on slices of zwieback. NUT PREPARATIONS. Within the last few years, various new processes have been discovered whereby nuts of different kinds are converted into most valuable and palatable foods. Chief among these nut products may be named protose, or vegetable meat, almond and peanut butters, nuttolene, nuttose, -nut meals, and nut soup stock. There are also a number of predigested foods prepared from nuts, or nuts and grains, well suited to the needs of inva- lids, children, and aged people, while constituting a delicious, nourishing adjunct to any bill of fare. Further mention is made of them in the chapter on Foods for the Sick. Protose, or vegetable meat, forms a most excellent substitute for the various flesh foods, resembling them in taste and appear- ance, and being composed of the same food elements. It comes in cans, all ready to slice and serve like canned meats, or may be recooked, and prepared into a great variety of palatable dishes. The nut butters may be used in place of butter on bread, as seasoning in foods, and, in fact, for every purpose for which NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 399 dairy cream and butter are used. Not being a free fat, however, as are butter and other animal fats, a larger amount is required for some purposes. For shortening, the nut meala are generally considered preferable to nut butter. Nut soup stock forms a very desirable substitute for the stock prepared from meats, and may be used in a similar manner. In most of the recipes in the foregoing chapters, nut cream may be substituted for dairy cream if preferred. PROTOSE AND NUTTOLENE RECIPES. Stewed Protose.*— Slice the protose, then cut into pieces not over half an inch square, cover with boiling water, and cook in a double boiler for two hours or longer. The longer and more slowly it is stewed, the richer it will be in flavor. A small onion, a sprig of parsley, or a few bits of celery may be added just long enough before the completion of the cooking to im- part their flavor to the stew, if desired. Season with salt, and serve hot. Stewed Protose with Tomato.— Stew the protose as directed in the preceding recipe. When done, season with salt and a cupful of strained stewed tomato to the pint of protose. Potato Stew with Protose.*— Prepare and stew the protose as previously directed. When nearly done, remove to a kettle, heat to boiling, and add some thinly sliced potatoes, and cook together until the potatoes are ten- der. There should be enough liquor in the protose so that additional liquid will not be needed for the potatoes. Season with salt, and serve. Simmered Protose.*- Cut protose into small dice or strips the size of coarse noodles ; add water enough to cover. Let this simmer gently for four or five hours or longer, adding more water if necessary. Salt to taste, and at the last let the water cook away leaving the protose slightly juicy. For variety, the protose may be flavored with sage, celery, parsley, or onion. It may be served with a spoonful of boiled rice or roasted rice with each helping, or a special dressing may be prepared to serve with it. Stewed Nuttolene.*— Rub two ounces of nuttolene smooth with three fourths of a cup of water. Press it through a wire strainer, salt to taste, and heat to boiling. Drop into this sauce the remainder of the pound of nuttolene which has been cut into strips and well separated, or into three-fourths inch dice. Let it stand a few minutes in a warm place until heated through, but do not let it boil, and do not stir it after tie pieces of nuttolene are in. Serve carefully on warm individual platters, garnishing with parsley. Nuttolene and Tomato.— Cut nuttolene into one-half or three-fourths inch cubes, and drop into hot strained tomato, well salted. Cook slowly, until the tomato is quite thick, and serve. Protose Stew.*— Make a tomato gravy by taking about two kitchen spoonfuls of cocoanut butter with the same amount of flour, and after this 400 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. has been well mingled adding a third of a can of strained tomato juice, to this add an amount of both water and Caram'^l Cereal to equal the quan- tity of tomato used, and let the whole boil until sufficiently thickened, stir- ring well- so that it shall not be lumpy. Add salt to taste. Then add some cubed protose and let it simmer until the protose is heated through. Stew or Ragont of Protose.*— Cut protose into three-fourths- or one-inch dice, according to the way it is to be served. To each pound of protose take two and one-half to three tablespoonfuls of strained tomato, about one quart of boiling water, one-fourth to one-half teaspoonful salt. Simmer from one to four hours. Sarory Protose Stew.* — To each pound of protose add one and one- half tablespoonfuls of chopped onion and one-fourth teaspoonful of sage. Cook as directed for stewed protose. Or add one and one-half teaspoonfuls of chopped onion to each half pound of protose. Cook as directed, and just before serving sprinkle in two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley. Protose Stew with Rice.*— To each half pound of protose which has been cut into one-third inch dice take three slightly rounded tablespoonfuls of rice, well washed. Put these into one quart of boiling water, with a little salt, in the inner cup of a double boiler. Let the water boil rapidly until the rice is tender, then set in the outer boiler and stew until ready to serve. It may be served at any time after the rice is tender. Macaroni may be used instead of rice. Stewed Protose with Boasted Eice.*— Steam one cup of rice, well washed, in two and one-fourth cups of water, with one scant teaspoonful of salt, and one large onion chopped or sliced. Serve a spoonful of this with each order of protose, which has been stewed with browned flour and tomato, in the proportion of one-half cup of tomato and one tablespoonful of flour to each two pounds of protose. Salt to taste. Protose with Onions.* — Slice onions, — the dark red ones are the sweet- est, — and cook until tender ; add an equal quantity of simmered protose. Salt to taste, and cook slowly until of a delicate brown, but do not scorch. Nuttolene may be prepared in a similar manner, but does not require to be first stewed. Fricassee of Protose.* — Add enough water to nearly cover a pound of protose, which has been cut into cubes. Stew slowly for an hour and a half .until nearly dry. Grate one half of a small onion into the protose. Strain into it one cup of tomatoes and stew half an hour. Add to this the follow- ing: one teaspoonful of nut butter diluted with water and rubbed smooth with one teaspoonful of brown flour and two teaspoonfuls of white flour. Stir this into the tomatoes, and add the protose. Serve with potato border or steamed rice, and garnish with parsley. Fricassee of Protose, No. 2.* — Cut the protose from a pound can in halves. Place in a shallow stew pan with one small onion sliced, one carrot cut in quarters, and a few sprigs of parsley. Cover with water and simmer for two hours. Drip the protose and place in a saucepan in which is a tea- NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 4OI spoonful of cocoanut butter mixed well with a tablespoonful of flour. To this add the stock in which the protose was boiled. When ready to serve, add to this one egg yolk beaten with a tablespoonful of cream. Serve with rice or roasted rice as an accompaniment. Stewed Protose and Mashed Beans.*— Cook and mash beans, season with salt. Serve stewed protose on individual platters, with a spoonful of the beans. Garnish with lettuce or parsley. Stewed Nuttolene and Protose with Tomato. — Heat strained tomatoes to boiling, and thicken a little with flour, if desired ; salt, and drop in three- fourths cup of nuttolene. Reheat without boiling, and serve. The tomato may be flavored with onion or celery for variety, and a little chopped pars- ley makes it more attractive. One part of each of nuttolene and protose may be used if desired. Minced Protose. — Chop the protose fine with a meat chopper or chop- ping knife. Have some strained stewed tomato heated to boiling, add one cup of the minced protose to one and one-half cups of tomato. Boil up once, and serve on slices of zwieback which have been moistened with hot cream, hot nut cream, or hot water. Broiled Protose. — Cut protose into thin slices, and pan broil until of a delicate brown on both sides ; serve at once. The protose may be sprinkled with salt after broiling. Broiled Nuttolene.*— Cut nuttolene into slices one-half to three-fourths of an inch thick, and broil in a wire broiler over the coals to a delicate brown. It should not have spots of dark brown upon it. If it is not con- venient to have the coals, the broiling may be done under or over the blaze of a gas stove or on a griddle which has been heated slowly to the right temperature, using no oil on it. Serve with chili sauce. Vegetarian Chili Sauce.*— One cup of strained tomatoes, one stalk of celery and two or three slices of onion chopped fine, the juice of one lemon, a little salt, and one teaspoonful of sugar. Put over the fire and boil up once. Serve cold. Excellent with baked beans and other meat substitutes. Nnttolene with Mint Sauce.*— Broil nuttolene according to above direc- tions, and serve with mint sauce. Mint Sauce.*— One tablespoonful of chopped fresh mint, two tablespoon- fuls of lemon juice, one tablespoonful of sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. When served over 'hot dishes, let it get just warm, but not hot. It should not stand long after being prepared. One-fourth of a teaspoonful of dry mint may be used in place of the fresh mint, but it is not so good. A little more sugar may be used if desired. Poached Egg on Protose Steak.*— Cut one-half-inch slices from a pound of protose. Heat in a quick oven until delicately browned, but not dried, and slip carefully on each round slice an egg so poached that the white is just jellied. Sprinkle with salt, garnish, and serve. Nut Lisbon Steak.— * Broil sliced protose, then pour over it a small quantity of nut cream and bake in the oven. 402 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Nut Lisbon Steak, No. 3.*— Slice protose into one-half-inch slices. Broil for ten minutes, and serve hot with a brown cream sauce. Nut Steak in Grayy.*— Put slices of protose in a baking pan and cover with a sauce made of one-half cup of nut butter dissolved in one quart of water, and one cup of strained stewed tomato. Thicken the sauce with browned flour, season with salt, pour over the sliced protose, and bake in the oven. Protose Steak la Tomato with Kipe Olives.^*— Pour enough stewed tomato, into which a little salt has been sprinkled, over the bottom of a granite pan to cover it well. Lay three-fourths-inch slices of protose in the tomato, and heat all in a moderate oven until the protose hasabsorbed the tomato. Serve with ripe olives. Mock Hamburger Steak.*— Mash fine one-half pound of protose, and one- eighth pound of nuttolene. Add one large or two small eggs, and one-half granose biscuit, ground fine. Season with grated onion, sage and salt to taste. Form into small patties and bake on an oiled tin in the oven, or broil over coals. Serve with hot tomato sauce. *Protose and Nuttolene in Shells.*— Take two-thirds protose and one- third nuttolene, mince all fine with a fork (or grind through a food cutter), and mix well together. It may then be made into cakes with the hands, or put into a pastry bag with a star-shaped tube with large spaces, and pressed into the shells. Turn over the cakes the liquid from the can of protose, flavored with celery salt, grated onion, or some of the herbs; or not flavored at all, as preferred. Place them on the top grate of a hot oven, or under a gas blaze, not too hot. Just heat them through, and serve at once. They require no sauce, but a teaspoonful of jelly on one side of the shell is very enjoyable with them. Leaves of parsley may be used as a garnish. The same mixture may be made into rolls and served cold, or browned in the oven. *Nuttolene Cutlets.*— Cut nuttolene into irregular shapes, dip into egg beaten with water in the proportion of one tablespoonful to each egg, and a little salt, then roll in granola. Dip in egg and roll in granola again, then put into a hot oven until a delicate brown. Serve plain or with green peas. Nut Cutlets, No. 2.*— Sprinkle a thin layer of granose on the bottom of an oiled baking pan, lay over this slices of nuttolene, then sprinkle on more flakes, cover with the following custard sauce and bake until brown : — Custard Sauce for Cutlets.*— Beat together thoroughly two eggs, one pint of milk and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Pour over the cutlets and bake. Protose Cutlets.*— Dip broiled protose in egg which has been beaten slightly with salt and one tablespoonful of water to each egg. Then roll in fine zwieback crumbs or granola. Put into a hot oven until slightly browned. Nut Fillets.* — Slice protose and nuttolene each one-half inch thick. Place a slice of onion between protose and nuttolene, protose on top. Make a dressing of strained tomatoes which have been stewed down, and seasoned with bay leaves, thyme, and salt. Put the dressing over the fillets. Bake one hour in a moderate oven. Garnish with parsley or lettuce. NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 403 Tegetable Cutlets.*— Mix together one cupful of steamed rice, two cup- fuls of minced protose, one cupful of lentil pulp, one grated onion, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-third cupful of 20% gluten or of browned flour, and one-half cupful of tomato juice. Mold in oblong cakes two-thirds of an inch in thickness, and bake for half an hour. Serve with a brown sauce and garnish with green peas. Brown Sauce. — Brown together one tablespoonful of nut meal and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Add one-half teaspoonful of salt. Braid smooth in a little cold water and turn into a pint of boiling milk, stirring until thick- ened. Add lastly one-half cup of strained tomato juice. Baked Protose. — Remove a pound of protose from the can, cut in halves and place them cut side down in a baking dish. Pour over the protose a quart of tomato juice (obtained by draining from a can of tomato) to which has been added a tablespoonful of cocoanut cream, or nut butter, and a teaspoonful of salt. Bake until most of the liquor is evaporated, basting the protose frequently with the tomato. Crust Patties.— Beat until light the yolks of six eggs with four table- spoonfuls of salt. Add sufficient flour to make dough stifiE enough to knead. Knead well for a few minutes, and roll to about the thinness of a knife blade. Have prepared a dish of nut fillets, cooked and hot. Cut the crust into rounds. Place some of the fillets on one-half of the round, turn the other half of the crust over, and press the edges together like turnovers. Bake on a roll baker until thoroughly done and slightly brown. Serve with or with- out tomato sauce. Basted Protose.*— Cut one-half pound of protose into halves and place in an oiled baking dish and sprinkle with onions finely sliced, pressing some of the slices into the sides of the protose. Pour over this one quart of strained tomatoes, seasoned with salt, and bake in a moderate oven until the tomato is slightly thickened. Baste occasionally by dipping the tomato over the protose. Place on a hot platter, garnish with parsley and serve a little tomato with each slice of protose. The tomato may be omitted, and water in which is dissolved a little nut butter used instead. Braized Protose.* — Mash one-half pound of protose. Prepare a vegeta- ble stock by emulsifying three tablespoonfuls of nut butter with some tomato juice, and adding one teaspoonful of well-browned flour. Mince (or slice) one large onion, add this and one teaspoonful of sage, one-half teaspoonful of celery salt, one small carrot, one small turnip, and one small potato ; the vegetables sliced ; also one-fourth teaspoonful marjoram, two bay leaves; mix altogether and stew gently for three hours. Season with salt. Cut the remainder of the protose into slices and place in a baking pan allow- ing each piece to overlap the next. Pour in enough of the vegetable stock to partially cover, and baste as in meat roasting, until the protose is thor- oughly flavored with the stock. Bake one hour in a moderate oven. This is nice served"with toast. Braized Protose No. 2.*— Cut a half-pound of protose into halves, length- wise, and place in an oiled baking dish with the rounding side up. Press 4^4 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. young onions, thinly sliced, into the sides of the protose, and drop a few into the dish (celery may be used in place of onions if preferred). Surround and cover this with a pint of strained tomato which has been seasoned to taste with a little salt. Escalloped Protose.*— Add to two parts of minced protose one part of stewed strained tomato with salt. Mix thoroughly, and put into a dish, hav- ing the mixture not over two inches deep. Bake in a rather slow oven for three quarters of an hour. Serve with or without tomato sauce. Nut Croquettes.*— Chop one cup of walnut meats, and add one cupful each of mashed potatoes and fresh bread-crumbs; moisten with one-fourth cup of water in which the potatoes were boiled, and season with salt. Beat until light the yolks of three eggs, and add them to the mixture with the whisked white of one egg. Mix thoroughly, convert into small croquettes, egg and crumb them and bake in a moderate oven until a rich brown. Serve hot. Protose and Granose Croquettes.*— Take one cup of slightly juicy stewed protose, one egg, salt to taste, and just enough granose flakes to shape. Form into rolls, and bake in a quick oven until they begin to crack, and are of a delicate brown. They may be prepared and set in a cool place until time to bake them. Grape pulp or fruit jelly are agreeable sauces for them. Protose aud Bice Croquettes.*— Steam one-half cup of well-washed rice in one cup of water, with one-fourth teaspoonful of salt for one hour, or until tender. Add to this an equal bulk of rather dry stewed protose, one egg, and salt to taste. Shape, and roll in fine bread-crumbs or granola. Bake in a quick oven until they begin to crack, and are of ac delicate brown. If desired, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley or celery may be added be- fore shaping. Serve with egg sauce or with fruit or jelly. Protose Croquettes.*- Mash protose with a fork ; mix with it an equal quantity of mashed potato. Season with mint, celery, or a bit of onion and salt to taste. Form into croquettes, roll in bread-crumbs, then in beaten yolks of eggs, roll again in bread-crumbs, and bake brown on an oiled tin in the oven. Hominy Croquettes.*— Warm one pint of cooked hominy in one or two tablespoonfuls of hot milk. Add the beaten yolk of one egg, and salt to taste. Cool ; shape ; roll, and bake like rice croquettes. Rice Macaroni Croquettes.*— Take one pint of cold, boiled rice, macaroni or spaghetti ; heat and moisten with a little thick, white sauce ; add the beaten yolk of one egg, two tablespoonfuls of grated nuttolene, and salt and celery to taste. Cool ; shape-; roll in crumbs ; dip in egg ; roll in crumbs again, and bake until brown on an oiled tin about one-half hour. Casserole of Kice and Protose.*— Chop or mash protose very fine, and add to it one-half teaspoonful of salt, celery salt to taste, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and one tablespoonful of finely sliced or grated onion, one beaten egg, and two teaspoonfuls of fine cracker-crumbs. Use hot water to moisten it that it may pack easily. Oil a small mold and [line the sides NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 405 and bottom one-half inch deep with either hot or cold rice. Pack in the protose and cover closely with rice ; steam forty-five minutes. Serve with cream celery sauce or tomato sauce. Cream Celery Sauce. — Simmer two stalks of celery in one pint of milk until the milk is well flavored. Remove the celery, thicken with one table- spoonful of browned flour and one teaspoonful of white flour. Salt to taste. Stuffed Protose With Brown Grary.*— Cut the center from a pound can of protose and stufiE with a dressing made from the following ingre- dients : Three slices of stale bread broken into small pieces and soaked in cold water until tender. Press the water from the bread, add one raw egg, one medium-sized onion, grated, one cup of hot mashed potato which has been seasoned with rich cream and salt. Add to this one-half of the pro- tose which was cut from the center of the pound, after having mashed it well. Season the dressing with one-half teaspoonful of sage and salt to taste. Place the stuffed protose in a baking dish and add just enough water to baste while baking for two and one-half hours in a hot oven. When done, carefully lift the roast into another dish, reserving the water for gravy. Surround the roast with the remainder of the dressing and bake for one-half hour. Serve with the following : Brown Gravy.— Add sufficient cream to the water remaining to make a pint in all. Thicken with brown flour, add the remainder of the protose from the center of the pound after it is mashed, and season the gravy with sage and celery salt. Serve with each order a little protose, dressing, and gravy. Stuffed Protose. — Remove a pound of protose from the can and scoop out the center, leaving a cavity about the size of a small chocolate cup. Fill this with a stuffing prepared by mixing together, one and one-fourth cups of bread-crumbs, one-half cup of minced protose (a portion of that removed from the center) , one-half teaspoonful of sage, the same of celery salt, one- fourth of a medium-sized onion and two stalks of celery both finely minced, moisten these with one-fourth of a cup of cream or nut cream, beating all together thoroughly, and with this stufiE the protose roll. Place the stufifed protose in a high baking dish and turn over it the following: one cup of hot water in which two bay leaves have been simmered for a few minutes, and one-fourth cup of thick cream or cocoanut cream, with salt to season. Bake in a moderate oven, basting very frequently for one hour, then add to the basting liquid one cupful of strained, stewed tomato, and bake from one- half to one hour longer. Stuffed Protose with Vegetable Oysters.— Prepare the protose as in the preceding recipe, filling the center with a mixture of bread-crumbs mois- tened with cream and seasoned with salt and vegetable oysters which have been stewed until tender. Put in a baking pan, and bake for an hour, basting with liquor obtained from stewing the vegetable oysters, seasoned with salt and cream. Protose Fish.* — Roll sliced protose in salted beaten egg, then in granose flakes, and bake in a moderate oven until tne protose is heated through. Serve hot with tomato jelly. 4o6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Casseroles of Protose with Potato.— Line small round dishes with well- seasoned mashed potato. Fill with a mixture prepared of one-half pound of protose, minced, one tablespoonful of cream or nut cream, one egg, one-half teaspoonful of powdered sage, one-fourth teaspoonful of thyme, one-half teaspoonful of celery salt, and one-fourth teaspoonful of salt. Cover with a crust of potato, and bake in a moderate oven until well browned. Potato gluten with which has been mixed one tablespoonful of cocoanut cream to three heaping spoonfuls of the meal, the whole rubbed smooth with slightly salted water, just enough being used to make the meal suflSciently moist to shape well, may be used instead of the mashed potato. Protose and Gluten Patties.*— Take one-half pound of finely minced pro- tose, one tablespoonful of thick dairy cream, cocoanut cream, or nut cream, two tablespoonfuls of prepared 20% gluten, and one well-beaten egg. Add salt to season, and a little powdered sage or celery salt to flavor. Shape with the hands into small patties, and bake until lightly brown. Nuttolene Cottage Cheese.— Rub nuttolene through a wire strainer, add salt and enough lemon juice to give it the slight tartness of cottage cheese. Be careful not to get too much lemon juice, and to use plenty of salt. Mix well, and press through a fine strainer again. Shape into balls, and roll in chopped parsley. This is very pretty served on lettuce leaves as a salad. Tegetarian Boast.* — Cover the bottom of a baking pan with minced pro- tose, sprinkle this with grated bread-crumbs with which a small quantity of nut meal has been mixed, and some minced celery. Moisten this with cream sauce, then cover with nuttolene which has been pressed through a colander. Add a second layer of bread-crumbs, nut meal and celery, with cream sauce. Cover with minced protose and then with cream sauce, and bake until well browned. A custard sauce may be used, if preferred. Protose Timbales.*— Take one pound of protose, one-fourth pound of nut- tolene, four rolled crackers, one-half cup of cream, two beaten eggs, one tea- spoonful each of salt and celery salt, and one teaspoonful of powdered bay leaf. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, bake for twenty minutes in oiled molds, set in a pan of hot water. Serve with tomato sauce. Browned Hash.- Chop together two-thirds paits protose and one-third part potato, season with salt and grated onions, sage, or celery, as preferred. Press into an oiled tin, cover the top with thick cream or cocoanut cream, and bake until nicely browned. Nut and Bice Boast. — Mix together two cups of hashed protose or nutto- lene and one cup of boiled rice, add three well-beaten eggs, flavor with sage and salt. Mix thoroughly, cover the top with cream or nut cream, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Protose Boast.- Mix well together one pint of minced protose, one cup of granola, one cup of cream, two eggs, with salt and sage or celery to season. Bake until well browned. Cocoanut cream may be used in place of the dairy cream. Protose Patties.* — To one cup of cooked rice add one cup of protose, one tablespoonful of gluten (20%), four well-beaten eggs, one tablespoonful of NUTS AND NOT FOODS. 407 granola, one-half cup of cream, or cocoanut cream, with salt and sage to season. Form into patties and bake until well browned. Protose Patties, No. 2.* — Mash one cupful of protose fine, add one-fourth cupful of finely minced celery, and salt to season, form into patties, roll in beaten egg, then in bread-crumbs, and bake until well browned. Protose Patties, No. 3.* — Take one cupful each of potato and protose, chopped fine, add salt and a little grated onion to flavor, moisten with one egg beaten with one-half cupful of cream, form into patties and brown in the oven. Macaroni witli Nuttolene.* — Mix together one quart of rather moist, coarse bread-crumbs, one teaspoonful of powdered sage, and one teaspoonful of salt. Have one cupful (measured before cooking) of cooked macaroni and one- half pound of nuttolene cut into very small dice or chopped fine. Put layers of the crumbs, macaroni, and nuttolene into a baking dish until all are in. Four over the whole two cups of water, sprinkle the top lightly with fine crumbs, and bake slowly from three- fourths of an hour to an hour. It should be moist enough when done not to require sauce, but any sauce desired may be used. Protose Boast. — Cut a pound of protose lengthwise through the center. Place in a baking pan and baste with a thin tomato sauce to which one or two bay leaves have been added, with salt to season. A tablespoonful of cocoanut or other nut butter added to the tomato is thought by some to be an improvement. Protose Boast, No. 2.*— Slice the protose one fourth or one third of an inch thick, and place in a dripper or other baking tin with just enough water to cover. Bake in a slow oven for an hour or longer, until the water is mostly evaporated, and the slices are richly browned. Serve on individual platters with a helping of nicely mashed potato or browned rice, and a gravy prepared by cooking together for a few moments two cups of cooked lentil pulp, one and one-half cups of strained stewed tomato, a tablespoonful of nut butter, and one-third cup of protose made into a pulp by having been put through a vegetable press. Protose Boast, No. 3.* — Cut one pound of protose into halves, cover with cocoanut butter and grated onion, put into the oven and bake for a short time, then pour over the following sauce : two scant cupfuls of water, two scant cupfuls of tomato juice, a third of a cupful of lemon juice, with salt and celeiy to taste. If preferred, the following sauce may be used: two eggs, beaten smooth, one pint of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt. Return to the oven and bake until brown. Protose Boast, No. 4.*— Take out both ends of a can of protose, be- ing careful to cut the tin close to the edge. Remove the contents of the can whole. Split lengthwise through the middle, lay in a roasting pan flat side downward. Prepare a sauce by adding to one pint of stewed tomato rubbed through a colander, a large tablespoonful of nut meal. Pour this sauce over the protose and bake in a moderate oven for three hours, basting frequently. 408 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. When thoroughly baked, the surface of the protose will be of a rich brown color. In serving, cut in slices like roast beef, but a little thicker. Protose Roast with Tomato Sauce.*— To two or three cups of chopped bread-crumbs, toasted crumbs preferred, moistened with water, add one-half pound of protose, and season with a little salt and sage. Bake about three quarters of an hour or until nicely browned. For the sauce, add to one and one-half cups of strained tomato, one tablespoonful of mashed protose, and cook for a short time. Thicken, and serve over the dressing. Protose Roast with Potato.*— Place one pound of sliced protose in the bottom of a small dripping pan with a few slices of onion and a little salt. Cover with water and bake slowly for several hours. Three quarters of an hour before serving, pare and quarter, lengthwise, three or four potatoes, and place in a pan. Sufficient water should be added from time to time to make a gravy. Pressed Prot»se loaf.*— Break up the protose slightly with a fork, add salt, a very little sage, and if necessary, a little water to make the protose hold together. Pack it into an oiled tin, put a weight on it, press firmly, and let it stand in a cool place for several hours. When ready to serve run a knife- blade around the edge of the. tin, turn the contents out carefully, slice with a thin, sharp knife, and serve with cranberry sauce, jelly, or celery. A little nuttolene may be used with the protose. Minced yolks of hard-boiled eggs are an improvement in the loaf. Seasoning with celery salt and a little lemon juice instead of the sage, salt, and water, makes another variety. Minced onion, with or instead of the sage, gives a different dish. This may be broiled before serving, if desired, and served with sour apple sauce. Pressed Nut Loaf Broiled.*- One cup of nut meal, three-fourths cup of water, two and three-fourths pounds of protose, one-fourth teaspoonful of bay leaves, one-half teaspoonful of sage, three-fourths teaspoonful of salt. Break the protose into coarse, irregular pieces with a fork; add the herbs and salt, then the nut meal, which has been cooked for the few minutes in the water. Press firmly into tins, put on a weight, and let stand in the ice box for several hours. It may be sliced and broiled or served cold. Protose Roast with Browned Grayy.* — Put alternate layers of sliced pro- tose and finely sliced onion, with salt, in a small tin or dripper. Cover with water and bake slowly for two or three hours , adding water as required . When ready to serve, remove the protose from the tin, add more water to that left in the tin, if necessary, and thicken with a mixture of brown and white flour stirred up with water. This may be served with peeled baked potatoes, or the potatoes may be baked with the protose. Macaroni with Protose.— Break macaroni, sufficient to fill a large cup, into inch lengths, and cook until tender in boiling water; when done, drain. Put a layer of the macaroni in the bottom of a pudding dish, and sprinkle over it a light layer of finely minced protose ; add a second and a third layer, sprinkling each with the minced protose. Then turn over the whole a custard made by mixing together a pint of nut cream (prepared by adding PROTOSE AND NUTTOLENE ROLES POACHED EGG WITH RIPE OLIVES NUT ROAST NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 4O9 three tablespoonfuls of nut butter to a cup and a half of water) and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs or one whole egg, and one teaspoonful of salt. Care should be taken to arrange the macaroni in layers loosely, so the sauce will readily permeate the whole. Bake in a moderate oven until lightly browned. Protose Hash.— Chop cold boiled potatoes and protose, equal parts. Put into a saucepan just enough of the liquor obtained from stewing a slice of protose to moisten well the chopped foods ; heat thoroughly, tossing and turning until equally hot throughout, and serve. Salt for seasoning should be added to the liquid before introducing the chopped foods. A little chopped celery may be used with the potato if preferred. Baked Protose and Granola. — Put one-half pound of protose through a vegetable press, or rather fine colander. Mix together two cups of granola and three of warm water; season with a little salt and a little pulverized sage or minced celery. Put alternate layers of the seasoned gfranola and the protose into a pudding dish, finishing with the protose. Press together slightly, and bake in a moderate oven until lightly browned. Nut Koast.*— One cupful of lentil pulp, one-half cupful of 20^ gluten, one-half cup of granola and one-half teaspoonful of salt, one cupful of nut meal made by pressing mixed nuts through a fine colander, with salt and sage to season. Place in a baking dish, spread the top with cream and bake for thirty-five or forty minutes. Cereal Roast.* — Mix together one pint of dry bread-crumbs, one quart of watefln which has been dissolved one-half cup of nut butter. Add one cup of nut meal, salt, sage, and thyme to season, and bake in a moderate oven until firm enough to slice. Roast Imperial. — Mix together one-half cup of lentil pulp, one-half cup of pease pulp, one-half cup of English walnuts, and season to taste with sage and salt. Line an oiled baking dish one-half inch deep with the mixture. Pack in loosely a dressing made from the following ingredients: Four slices of zwieback, steamed until softened, one-half cup of hot cream, sage and salt to taste, and one well-beaten egg. Mix together lightly with a fork. Cover closely with pease, lentil, and nut mixture. Spread over the top thick cream or nut cream, bake in a moderatejoven until firm enough to cut into slices. Serve with cranberry sauce, jelly, or brown cream gravy. Sance Imperial.* — Take one quart (one can) stewed tomato, two sprigs of parsley leaves, two bay leaves, two sprigs of thyme, one rounded table- spoonful of chopped onion, one eighth of a lemon, one tablespoonful of nut oil or cocoanut cream, and one tablespoonful of flour. Cook the ingredients, except the oil, parsley and flour, together for twenty minutes, and strain. Stir the flour smooth in the oil, then pour over that gradually, stirring con- tinually, the hot tomato. Let all boil up well together, and add salt to season. Yegetable Roast or Mock Tui'key.*— To two cups of lentil pulp, add one cup of strained stewed tomato, two eggs, two cups of walnut meal (made by ^^'^ SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. pressing English walnut meats through a colander) , one-half cup of granola, one-half cup of 20% gluten which has been browned in the oven, the juice of a medium sized onion, a little minced celery and pulverized sage, just enough to give it flavor, and one-fourth cup of very thick nuttolene cream, with salt to season. The mixture should be quite stiflf, as it will be if the water is largely separated from the lentils. Place in a common bread tin and bake in a quick oven. If the mixture proves to be thin, a longer, slower baking will be required, as it should be stiflf enough when baked to slice nicely. Serve in slices on individual dishes with a small quantity of dressing pre- pared in the following manner, and a garniture of parsley or celery leaves : one cup of strained lentils, one cup of strained, stewed tomato, one cup of nuttolene cream, browned flour to thicken. Season with salt, celery, and a little grated onion. Strain before serving. Protose and Nuttolene Pie.*— Put layers of protose and nuttolene into a deep dish, sprinkle browned flour, salt, thyme, and a very little mint between the layers. Pour a little strained tomato over each layer, and cover the whole with water. Bake from one-half to one hour, adding water to leave it quite juicy. Cover a granite pie tin with a plain crust, and fill with the layers of baked protose and nuttolene. Cover with a top crust as for fruit pies, and bake until the crust is just done. Cut in pieces, and serve with any suitable gravy on an individual platter, on a lettuce leaf, or with parsley ; or slip the pie on to a chop tray, and garnish with parsley or lettuce. The seasoning may be varied. Black walnuts may be sprinkled between the layers, instead of herbs. Nuttolene Pie with Potato Crust.* — Put slices of nuttolene, with or without onion or other flavoring, into a baking dish. Dredge with flour be- tween the layers, and cover with salted water. Bake one-half hour or more. Then add more water if necessary, cover with a thick layer of mashed potato, and bake until of a delicate brown. The crust may have one egg, beaten separately, added to each pint of potato. Nuttolene a la Creme.* — Break up three fourths of a pound of nuttolene into triangular pieces with a fork. Mix with it four hard-boiled eggs which have been pressed through a colander, with three fourths of a teaspoonful of salt. Sauce: Rub seven eighths of a cupful of pastry flour smooth with water. Pour it gradually into one pint of boiling milk, stirring until smooth. Pour this over two beaten eggs, add one-half teaspoonful of onion juice, one or two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, and three-fourths to one teaspoon- ful of salt. Put the sauce and prepared nuttolene in a baking dish, in lay- ers, the sauce on top. Sprinkle with gluten, fine granola, or cracker crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven until bubbling all through and slightly browned over the top. Nuttolene Fricassee.*— With a fork shave one-half pound of nuttolene into thin slices. Prepare a corn sauce by adding to a half pint of corn pulp two well-beaten eggs, one pint of rich milk, and salt to taste. Add the nuttolene, and cook together for a few minutes until well thickened. Nuts and nut foods. 41 1 Vegetarian Koast.*— Cover the bottom of a baking pan with minced protose. Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and nut meal and chopped celery. Moisten with cream sauce, then cover with nuttolene, then bread-crumbs, nut meal and celery again with the cream sauce. Cover with minced pro- tose and bake to a nice brown with cream sauce on top. If preferred use ( gg and cream sauce instead of the plain cream sauce. Swiss Lentil Roast.— Take two thirds of a cup of lentil pulp, one third of a cup of mashed potatoes, one-half cup of cream, and salt to season. A little celery or onion may be used to flavor. Mix all together, spread cream or nut cream over the top and bake brown. Rice and Lentil Croqnettes.*— Take one cupful of lentil pulp, one cup- ful of cooked rice, one-half cupful of cream, one beaten egg, sage and salt to taste. Form into croquettes and roll in beaten eggs, then in bread- crumbs. Spread a bit of cream on top and bake to a nice brown. Pea and Celery Croquettes.*— One cupful of peas pulp, two-thirds cupful of chopped celery, one egg, and enough bread-crumbs to make stifiB enough for croquettes ; salt and thyme to taste. Form in croquettes, roll in beaten egg and crumbs and bake until slightly browned. NUT PRODUCTS WITH VEGETABLES. Protose with Green Vegetables.— Green peas, wax beans, beet greens, shelled beans, and tomatoes are all excellent cooked with protose. Add the protose in about the proportion of two thick slices of protose, cut into small pieces, to one pint of shelled peas, or one pound of canned peas. Cook to- gether until the vegetables are done, and serve without other seasoning than a little salt. Escalloped Potato with Protose and Nuttolene.— Cover the bottom of an oiled pan or basin with a layer of thinly sliced potato. Over this place a layer of sliced protose spread with very thin slices of onion. Dredge lightly with flour. Add a second layer of potato. Next, add a layer of sliced nut- tolene, and lastly another layer of potato. Pour over this enough water, to which salt to season has been added, to entirely cover the whole. Sprinkle the top with granola and bake slowly in a moderate oven until the potatoes are well done. Stewed Potatoes in Cocoanut Sauce. — Bake some medium-sized pota- toes. When done, remove the skins and slice evenly. Prepare a sauce tjy adding to one cupful of cocoanut cream an equal quantity of water, or by dissolving two-thirds of a cup of prepared cocoanut butter in one pint of water. Thicken this when boiling with two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a very little water. Season with salt and if liked a half cup of strained tomato. Add the sliced potato and stew for an hour or longer in a double boiler. Sweet Potato Cutlets.* — Slice cold sweet potatoes which have been steamed or baked, dip each slice into beaten salted egg, then into granol^ 412 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. or toasted bread-crumbs, and bake on an oiled tin in a hot oven until brown. Potato Del Monico Cream Roll.* — Chop raw potatoes very fine and add sufficient cream and beaten egg white to bind them together. Salt to taste, and bake in an oiled granite pan in a double baker in a hot oven. When the potatoes are tender roll like an omelet, and serve with chopped parsley sauce. Baked Hulless Beans. — Put one pint of huUess beans in a bean jar and cover with three pints of cold water. I.(et them stand two or three hours. Add salt to taste, and one or two small onions, sliced or chopped fine. Bake for three or four hours in a slow oven, or until the beans are tender. This dish is excellent served with brown bread. A few slices of nuttolene may be added and baked with the beans if desired and the onion omitted. Oakhill Potato.* — Cook six large Irish potatoes until tender. Mash, season with salt and cream or nut cream to taste. To this add one cup of protose cut into pieces; savory protose is excellent for this recipe; also add two egg yolks which have been cooked until mealy. Season the whole with salt to taste, and a little sage or celery may be added if desired. Steam for one and one-half hours, then bake in an oiled dish until heated through. Turn out on a platter and decorate with the remaining potato by putting it through a pastry tube that is fastened to one end of a bag made of coarse cloth. Serve with this dish seeded ripe olives and garnish with parsley. If there is any left over, it may be cut into slices, and baked on an oiled pie tin. This makes a nice breakfast dish. Potato Stew with Protose.— Stew protose in a large quantity of water. When nearly done, add some thinly sliced potatoes, and cook together until the potatoes are tender. There should be enough liquor in the protose so that additional liquid will not be needed for the potatoes. Season with salt, and serve. Stuffed Potatoes.*— Remove the pulp from baked potatoes; mix with one third mashed protose, and season with a little finely chopped onion, and salt. This should be kept hot while mixing. Fill the potato skins with the mixture, and serve at once. Protose with Mashed Potato Border or Roses.*— Put mashed potato into a pastry bag with a, plain tube. Then press it out into a border around the edge of an individual platter in any desired design. Pile up the stewed protose in the center of the potato border. A star-shaped tube may be used, and the potato put onto the platter in roses. Spanish Stew.*— Take three medium-sized potatoes, peel and cube, one medium-sized onion cut into small pieces. Simmer the potato and onion until tender with sufficient water to cover. Then add one can of protose cut into cubes. Salt to taste. Nut Irish Stew.*— In two quarts of salted water cook from four to six large onions sliced thin, and a few potatoes cut into irregular pieces about NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 413 an inch in diameter. When the potatoes are nearly tender, add eight table- spoonfuls of nut meal, stirring it in carefully, so as not to break the potatoes. When the potatoes are done, drop in pieces of nuttolene or protose. Heat through, and serve without stirring. Protosed Potato.*— Pare mhdium-sized potatoes and put in cold water while you prepare the following, for which will be required one pound pro- tose, one-half pound nuttolene, one-half teaspoonful salt, one-third teaspoon- ful sage ; mix thoroughly after having minced the protose and nuttolene. Remove the potatoes from the water and make a hole through each one with an apple corer. Then fill with the protose and nuttolene mixture, place the potatoes, when filled, in a baking pan, brush each one lightly with olive oil or cocoanut butter, pour hot water over and bake, basting very frequently. Stuffed Tomatoes.* — Take out the inside of six medium-sized tomatoes, and moisten with it eight to twelve tablespoonfuls of toasted bread-crumbs. Mix with this one-half pound of protose chopped, one table-spoonful of chopped onion, one-fourth to one-half teaspoonful of sage, and one to one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt. Fill the tomatoes with this mixture, piling it up on the top, and bake in a hot oven until the tomatoes are cooked. When nearly done, sprinkle chopped parsley over the top. Nut and Tomato Timbales.*— Rub the nuttolene from one small can through a fine colander or sieve, add to it one quart of strained, stewed tomato, one-half cup of cream, one whole egg and the yolk of a second, with salt to season. Beat so as to blend thoroughly, and bake in timbale molds set in a pan of hot water until well set. Macaroni au Gratin. — Break sufficient macaroni into two-inch lengths to make a quart. Cook until tender in boiling salted water. When done, drain and place in a baking dish. Sprinkle over it a quart of fresh cottage cheese. Beat together three eggs and one cupful of rich milk or cream. Turn this over the macaroni, sprinkle the top with cracker crumbs, and bake for ten minutes in a moderate oven. Spinach on Toast,* with Broiled Nuttolene.— Wash spinach, and cook in salted water until tender. Drain, and chop fine. Moisten slices of zwie- back in hot salted water. Cover until thoroughly steamed and swollen, then place each slice on an individual platter, spread over it a thin layer of the spinach, and place a small thin slice of broiled nuttolene or protose, cut in any desired shape, on top or by the side of the zwieback, with a teaspoonful of chopped red beets, dressed with lemon juice, and a tablespoonful of nut- tolene sauce. Nuttolene and Com. — Place alternate layers of stewed or canned sweet corn and dice of nuttolene in a pudding dish. Cover, and place in a moder- ate oven until just heated through. Serve at once. This combination of nuttolene and corn is most pleasing. Nut Com Pudding.* — Fill a three-quart basin half or two-thirds full of layers of thin slices of protose and nuttolene, with salt, finely sliced celery, and a slight dredging of flour. Cover well with water, and bake from half 4^4 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. an hour to one hour. Then spread over it the following corn pudding, sprinkle lightly with fine crumbs, and bake until a delicate brown over the top ; serve at once. Corn Pudding.— Two cans of sweet corn rubbed through a colander, three well-beaten eggs, one cup of milk, salt to taste. Protose Timbale with Spinacli Souffle. — Use one and one-half cups of whole-wheat bread-crumbs soaked in one cup of water until soft, then cooked over a moderate fire, with frequent stirring, until smooth and creamy and dry enough to leave the sides of the dish. To this add one-half cup of sifted nut meal, one-half can of protose finely chopped, one-fourth teaspoonful of powdered bay leaf, one-half teaspoonful of powdered sage, five-eighths teaspoonful of salt, and the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Beat all together until well mingled, or pass through a fine colander. Lastly, add the whites of the eggs, lightly beaten. Turn into well-oiled molds and steam one and one-half hours. Spinacli Souffle. — Cook a peck of well-cleaned spinach in boiling salted water. When tender, drain thoroughly, and rub through a fine colander. When well dried over a moderate fire, let it cool a little, and then beat in the yolks of two eggs; lastly, chop in the whites beaten to a light froth. Fill well-oiled molds about three-fourths full, set in a pan containing hot water, and bake slowly until rounded up and firm to the touch. They are then sufficiently baked, and should be removed from the oven. These molds are very pretty ornamented by placing shapes cut from hard-boiled eggs in the bottom of the mold before turning in the souffle. NUT SALADS AND RELISHES. Protose Salad.* — Take one cupful of protose cut in small cubes, two hard-boiled eggs grated or chopped fine, one-half cup of minced celery, and salt to season. Mix well together and serve with the following : — Mayonnaise Dressing.*— Add to two well-beaten eggs one teaspoonful of celery salt, one-half teaspoonful common salt, one-third cupful of lemon juice. Beat well together, and cook in a double boiler over the fire, stirring constantly until it thickens, then remove from the fire and beat until cold. Mayonnaise Dressing,* No. 2.— Beat together enough to blend four large eggs, one-half cup of nut oil or pure olive oil, one scant cup of lemon juice, and one well-rounded teaspoonful of salt. Put into a double boiler contain- ing warm water, and heat, stirring continuously, until it begins to thicken. Then remove from the outer boiler and set in a dish of cold water, stirring until partially cooled. Strain if necessary. Sunflower Mayonnaise.*— Press the yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs separately through a wire strainer. Pile the yolks in the center of a salad plate, placing the whites in a circle outside of it. Around this arrange shredded lettuce, piled lightly, and serve with a mayonnaise dressing. Two eggs for each three plates of salad will be sufificient, NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 415 Mock Chicken Salad.*— Take two cupfuls of nuttolene cut in small cubes, three hard-boiled eggs which have been pressed through a colander, one-half cupful of celery chopped fine, and salt to season. Mix well together, serve with some salad dressing and a garnish of parsley. Protose and Celery Salad.*— Cut protose into one-half inch dice or shred it with a fork. Add to it a little salt and a very little grated onion, and pour over it a small quantity of lemon juice. Let it stand in the ice-box for half an hour or longer. Just before serving mix with it one half as much crisp celery cut into crescents as there is of protose, and serve with nut oil salad dressing. Pile up in the center of a bed of lettuce in a salad dish or serve on individual dishes. Celery leaves make a nice garnish for it. Nas- turtiums with or without the lettuce are beautiful. The sour salad dressing of peanut or almond butter may be used by adding the yolk of an egg. Cream Salad Dressing.*— Cook in the inner cup of a double boiler one- third cup of cream, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs. When thickened like a custard, add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice after it is removed from the fire, together with a pinch of salt. Potato Salad.*— Chop three or four left-over Irish potatoes, or else cut them into dice. Add to them one-half cup of chopped protose, one stalk of celery finely minced, and enough onion and salt to give a delicate flavor. Chopped egg yolks may be used if desired. Over this squeeze the juice of one lemon and allow it to stand in a cool place while preparing the following dressing: Mix together the yolks of two eggs, three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of water, one-fourth tablespoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of nuttol or olive oil. Put in the inner cup of a double boiler, and cook slowly, stirring carefully until slightly thickened. Remove from the fire and cool at once. Add a little sugar if desired. When cold, mix with the potato; allow it to stand for at least one hour, and serve on a lettuce leaf and garnish with sliced egg yolks which have been steamed or with cooked beets cut into fancy shapes. Protose Salad.*— Cut one cup of protose into small cubes; add to this one half as much minced celery, one hard-boiled egg, and three small rad- ishes cut in various shapes; pour over these ingredients the juice of two lemons and sprinkle with salt to taste. Let it stand one-half hour before serving. Garnish with radishes which have been cut so as to represent tulips. Mayonnaise dressing may be used instead of lemon juice. Ked Salad.*— Cook one cup of red kidney beans in slightly salted water until tender, but unbroken; then drain. Arrange lettuce leaves fresh and crisp, on a round plate, and put on it one cup of protose cut into cubes. (If desired one-half protose and one-half nuttolene may be used.) Spread over this a cream salad dressing, then scatter the beans over it, and garnish with slices of hard-boiled egg. Ideal Tomato Catsup.* — Two quarts of strained, stewed tomatoes, one large head of celery, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, four teaspoonfuls of salt. 41 6 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Slice the celery very fine, add with the sugar and salt to the boiling toma- toes, cook together until the celery is tender and the sauce rather thick. Ideal Chili Sauce.* — One quart o£ stewed tomatoes (not strained), one large onion (sliced) , one teaspoonful of celery salt, one-half tablespoonful of sugar, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of common salt. Cook all together until of the desired consistency. Golden Salad. — Prepare as many eggs as required by hard boiling them. Cut, when done, into two parts; remove the yolks without breaking the whites, mash the yolks and mix with enough mayonnaise or boiled salad dressing to bind them. Fill the egg-white shells with the prepared yolks, and stick the two half whites together, thus forming whole eggs. Cut one end flat, and stand an egg on a lettuce leaf on each salad plate. Around each egg put a circle of mayonnaise. NUT ORE AM AND NUT BUTTER. Nut Butter as Seasoning. — For green peas, stewed tomatoes, string beans, asparagus, and other vegetables, nut butter makes an agreeable seasoning. It is excellent eaten with green corn. It forms a rnost pala- table substitute for other fats in soups and such dishes as baked beans, mashed peas, mashed potato, etc. Indeed, nut butter and nuttolene may be used in most dishes in which cream or butter is ordinarily used. Nut Butter is prepared for table use by placing the desired quantity in a bowl, adding a. small quantity of water, a few drops at a time, and beat- ing the same smooth with a fork, A larger amount of water added makes nut cream. Nut milk is prepared by using four parts water to one of nut butter which is all ready for table use. Nuttolene may be made into nut cream in the same way, care being taken to add the water a little at a time, beating the whole smooth each time before adding more. Canned Pea Soup.— Rub a can of peas through a colander to remove the skins, add water to a tablespoonful of nut butter to form an emulsion, add this to the sifted peas, and enough additional water to make the soup of the proper consistency, season with salt, and serve. Potato, bean, tomato, and other vegetable soups may be prepared in like manner, and seasoned with nut butter. Gluten Soup.— Into a quart of water slice a small onion and add a tea- spoonful of nut butter. Heat to boiling, then remove the slices of onion, which are used simply for flavoring the soup, and stir in six rounding table- NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 417 spoonfuls of No. 3 gluten prepared by the Sanitarium Health Food Co. Boil until thickened, add salt to season, and serve. Lentil and Tomato Soup.— Two and three fourths cups of lentils (measured after having been cooked and rubbed through a colander), one cup of strained tomato, one teaspoonful of nut butter, and two stalks of celery. To these add sufficient water to make the soup of the proper con- sistency. Heat to boiling, remove the celery, add salt to season, and one teaspoonful of browned flour rubbed to a paste with a little water. Boil for two or three minutes until the flour is cooked; then serve. Baked Cabbage. — Chop the cabbage fine and cook in boiling water twenty minutes. Drain in a colander. To one quart of cooked cabbage add a cupful of water in which has been dissolved a dessertspoonful of nut butter, two well-beaten eggs, and the juice of one lemon. Add salt to taste. Mix thoroughly, and bake in a double baker until the cabbage is thoroughly done and the eggs well cooked. Nut Butter Puffs. — Dissolve nut butter in five times its own vol- ume of water. Into one cup of this cream beat one egg and sufficient sifted Graham flour (part white flour if desired) to make a batter of proper consistency (about the same quantity will be required as directed in the recipe for Graham Puffs, page 157). The batter should be poured into warm, not hot, gem irons. Bake in a moderate oven until well baked throughout, or about fifty minutes. Baked Sarorj Peas. — Take equal parts of sifted peas (the dried Scotch peas, cooked and pressed through a colander) and dry bread or zwieback crumbs. To four parts of this mixture add one of strained stewed tomato and one large tablespoonful of nut butter with salt to season. Add a little minced celery and onion or scge, and bake until dry and nicely browned throughout. Com Baked mth Zwieback. — Rub a tablespoonful of nut butter smooth in a little cold water, adding more gradually until it makes one quart in all. Heat this to boiling, and with it moisten eight or ten slices of zwieback. Put one pint of freshly cooked or canned corn through a colander to remove the skins, add to it one half teaspoonful of salt and one cup of water with which has been mingled one teaspoonful of nut but- ter. Cover the bottom of a graniteware baking dish with the corn mixture, and place therein a layer of zwieback slices, pour a little more of the corn over these slices, and add another layer of the zwieback; continue thus till the dish is full, pouring the corn mixture over each layer. Bake twenty minutes in a rather hot oven. Serve at once. BroTmed Com Meal Biscuits. — Spread a cuqful of corn meal rather thin on square tins, and heat in the oven until lightly browned, stirring 27 4i8 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. it frequently with a spoon to prevent an uneven browning. While still hot, add one fourth teaspoonful of salt if desired, and about two cupfuls of boiling nut cream, beating the whole very thoroughly. The amount of liquid will vary with the quality of the meal and the consistency of the cream. There should be only sufficient to make a stiff batter that will retain its shape. Drop in spoonfuls on slightly oiled tins, and bake until well browned on both sides. Cocoanut Crnsts. — Beat together very thoroughly one cupful of cocoa- nut cream, prepared as directed on page 394, and one cupful of Graham flour. The cocoanut liquid should be of about the consistency of ordi- nary cow's milk, and, if possible, should be made cold before using, by placing on ice. Other nut creams may be used in the place of cocoanut. When the batter has been beaten until it is light and foamy throughout, turn into hot iron cups, and bake twenty or twenty-five minutes. Only a small quantity should be put into each cup, the quantity here given being sufficient for one dozen crusts. Mashed Beans with Walnuts.— Prepare the beans as for mashed beans. To two cups of the bean pulp, which should be as dry as possible, add one half cup of lemon juice in which is dissolved a half teaspoonful of salt, if salt is desired. Mix together very thoroughly, then stir in lightly one cup- ful of the whole halves of walnut meats. Turn into a baking dish, and bake twenty minutes, or until mealy and well browned on top. Stewed Beans with Nut Batter. — Look over and wash one pint of dried haricot beans. Put into cold water, and parboil for half an hour. Turn off the water, and- put them to cook again in boiling water, with an ounce of nuttolene or a tablespoonful of nut butter. Stew slowly for two hours, or until tender, making sure that they are quite juicy when done. Add salt to season, one or two tablespoonfuls more of nut butter rubbed to a cream in a little water, the juice of one lemon, and an ounce of parsley chopped very fine. Boil together three or four minutes, and serve. Celery may be used in place of parsley, or both may be omitted, as preferred. Baked Beans with Nuts. — Prepare and cook the beans as directed on page 223. When tender, season with two tablespoonfuls of nut butter or peanut pulp, add one lemon cut m thin slices, the seeds and skins hav- ing been removed. Turn into a bean pot, and bake from two to four hours. Enough water should be added from time to time, if required, to keep the beans juicy. Bean Patties. — Prepare from well-cooked navy beans in the same man- ner as lor pease patties. Serve hot with a garnish of thin slices of lemon, with or without a dressing prepared by beating one spoonful of nut butter to a cream in one cup of water, adding one half cup of lemon juice, and salt if desired. NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 4^9 Marbled Bcaus. — Cook until tender in separate kettles one pint of white navy beans and one pint of black beans. Botli will require a prolonged, continuous cooking, from four to eight hours or longer. When done the liquid should be mostly evaporated. Put each separately through a colan- der. Add to the pulp salt to season and one cup of nut cream . Put iuto a slightly oiled pudding dish portions of the white and brown pulp in any preferred way so that when baked it will have a marbled appearance. Smooth the top with a knife, and bake until dry and mealy as for Mashed Beans (page 224). Bean Pudding with Tomato Sauce. — Rub smooth in a little cold water one tablespoonful of nut butter or its equivalent, and add boiling water to make one pint. With this moisten well eight pieces of zwieback. Have ready four cups of bean pulp to which salt has been added. Other seasoning, as thyme or sage, a small quantity, may be liked by some. Put a few spoon- fuls of the bean pulp, which should be moist enough to spread easily on the bottom of a baking dish, over this; add one half of the moistened zwieback, then another portion of the bean pulp, next the remaining zwie- back, and finish with beans on the top. Bake for an hour, and serve with hot tomato sauce. Pease Patties witli Tomato Sauce. — The dried Scotch peas are the best for this. Prepare them as for mashed peas (page 221), seasoning the pulp with nut butter or nut meal if desired. Shape with the hands in flat, oblong, or roivad patties about one inch thick. Brown on tins until dry and mealy. Serve on indiiddual dishes with a garnish of parsley and to- mato saa**©. Pease Patties, No. 2.*— Take one quart of the pulp of cooked Scotch peas, three fourths of a cup of nut meal, one egg, beaten, one-half cup of nut cream, one teaspoonful of salt, four and one-half cups of granose flakes. Shape into patties, brush with cream, and bake until nicely browned. Corn Patties. — One pint of sweet corn cut from the cob, one-half cup of cream, one well-beaten egg, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and enough zwieback or cracker crumbs to make of such consistency that it can be formed into cakes. Bake until brown. Macaroni witli Pease Gravy.— Prepare the peas as for Mashed Peas (page 221). To each cupful of the sifted peas add one cup of boiling water with salt to season. Put one small onion, cut in half, and three stalks of cele/y into the gravy, and boil all down together for fifteen min- utes. Renriove the onion and celery with a fork; add one half cup of nut cream for each cupful of water used, and thicken if needed with a little flour rubbed smooth in water. Meanwhile have the macaroni thoroughly cooked in boiling salted water, add it to the pease gravy, stew together for a few moments, and serve. 420 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Pea and Celery Croquettes.*— Take one cupful of pease pulp, two-thirds cupful of minced celery, one beaten egg, and enough bread-crumbs to make the mixture stiflE enough to form into croquettes, with salt and thyme to season. Form, roll in egg and crumbs, and bake until slightly browned Savory Lentils. — Take equal quantities of cooked brown lentils that have been rubbed through a colander to remove the skins, and the crumbs of unfermented bread. Moisten with a little nut cream, season with salt and a very little powdered sage, pour into a baking dish, and bake in a moderate oven until well browned. A tomato sauce makes a nice accom- paniment. A meal prepared by rubbing chopped English walnut meats through a colander, added to the savory lentils in the proportion of one cup of nut meal to a pint of lentils, just before putting into the oven to brown, makes a very palatable dish. When the nut meal is used, water may be used to moisten the lentils if preferred. Lentils with Nuts. — Use three pints of cooked lentil pulp and one pint of stewed tomato; season to taste with nut butter and salt, and bake as for mashed peas. If desired, the lentils may first be cooked with a little onion to flavor. Lentil Patties. — Cook the lentils as in the preceding recipe, and make the pulp into patties in the same manner as for Pease Patties. If preferred, one half browned stale bread crumbs may be used. A half cup of walnut meal to the pint of lentil pulp is considered an addition by some. Serve with a tomato sauce. The tomato sauce may be flavored with celery, and a garnish of celery leaves used, if desired; or a garnish of sliced fresh tomato may be used. Bean and Lentil Patties. — Take equal parts of well-cooked navy bean pulp and lentil pulp, mix well, season, and prepare in patties as directed above. Bake and serve with a garnish of Brazil nuts, with or without a plain tomato sauce. The Brazil nuts may be sliced crosswise or used whole. Eice and Lentil Croquettes.*— Take one cupful of lentil pulp, one cup- ful of cooked rice, one-half cup of cream, one beaten egg, with salt to sea- son. Turn into croquettes, roll in beaten egg and then in zwieback crumbs. Spread a bit of cream on top, and bake till brown. Lentil Dressing. — Cook some good lentils with a few slices of onion or pieces of celery to give them a flavor. When tender, rub through a colan- der, and add one half as much stewed and strained tomato as there is of lentils; add salt to season, and a tablespoonful of nut butter to each quart of dressing. This makes an excellent dressing for vegetables, and also for toast. The onion and celery may be omitted if preferred. NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 421 Vegetable Roast.— One cup of strained stewed tomato, one cup of cooked lentils -(measured after being rubbed through a colander), one cup of cooked crystal wheat, one tablespoonful of nut butter, one half tea- spoonful of finely powdered and sifted sage, one tablespoonful of finely minced celery. Add a little salt for seasoning, turn into a baking dish, and bake in the oven until quite dry. Serve in slices with a gravy made by cooking together for a few moments two cups of lentils prepared as above, one cup of strained stewed tomato, salt to season, and a tablespoonful of nut butter. _ Nut and Yegetable Roast.'— Cover the bottom of a baking dish with protose, sprinkle with a little grated onion, chopped celery or parsley. Cover with a layer of potato. Add another layer of protose. Turn over all sufficient tomato sauce to cover, and bake until the potato is well done. Nut Sance. — Heat to boiling a quart of water in which two table- spoonfuls of nut butter or nut pulp have been dissolved. Thicken with three tablespoonfuls of browned flour, add salt to season; cook thoroughly for five or ten minutes, then add one third cup of hot stewed strained tomato. Beat thoroughly, when it is ready to serve. This is excellent as a dressing for toast and for vegetables and grains. If preferred, the tomato may be omitted. Cream of Almond Soup.— Make a cream of one quart of water and one- half pound of almond butter; salt to taste, and heat thoroughly in a double boiler. Cut one dozen blanched almonds into strips, and put them into the tureen, then pour the cream over them. Serve at once with toas'.ed whole- wheat wafers. SOUP STOCK. Not Soup Stock. — Nut soup stock may be used in precisely the same way as extract of beef and other concentrated soup stocks. It dissolves instantly in either hot or cold water. It is best to add the water slowly at first. It may be used in any proportion desired, but about one part to ten or twenty of water is most satisfactory. Tomato and Macaroni Soup.— Break a half dozen sticks of macaroni into small pieces and drop into boiling water. Cook for an hour, or until perfectly tender. Rub three pints of stewed or canned tomato through a colander to remove the seeds. Add one pint of nut soup stock liquor (pre- pared by dissolving soup stock in water), and salt as desired. When the macaroni is done, drain well, cut each piece into tiny rings, and add to the tomato. Serve hot. Canned Corn Soup. — Turn the contents of a can of sweet corn into a graniteware pan, and mash thoroughly with a potato masher until every 422 SdlENCfi IN tHfi KrrcHEN. kernel is broken ; then rub through a colander. To the pulp thus obtained add sufficient nut soup stock liquor to make about three pints in all. Add salt if desired, and serve hot. Bean and Corn Soup.— Cold stewed corn and cold baked beans form the basis of this soup. Put one pint of each through a colander, add a few sticks of celery or a slice of onion, and three cups of rather diluted nut soup stock liquor. Boil for ten minutes. Remove the onion or celery, season with salt, and serve. Lima Bean Soup. — Simmer a pint of Lima beans gently in just suffi- cient water to cook and not burn, until they have fallen to pieces. Add more boiling water as needed. When done, rub the beans through a col- ander. Add nut soup stock to make of the proper consistency, and salt to season. Reheat and serve. White beans may be used in place of Lima beans, but they require more prolonged cooking. A heaping teaspoonful of pearled tapioca or sago, previously soaked in cold water, may be added to the soup when it is reheated, if liked, and the whole cooked until it is transparent. Pea and Tomato Soup. — Soak one pint of Scotch peas over night. When ready to cook, put into a quart of boihng water, and simmer slowly until quite dry and well disintegrated. Rub through a colander to remove the skins. Add two cups of strained stewed tomato and three cups of nut soup stock liquor. Turn into a double boiler, and cook together for a half hour or longer ; turn a second time through a colander or soup strainer and serve. Protose Soup.*— To one-half pound of mashed protose add one can of tomatoes, one large onion, two or three stalks of celery or a little celery-salt, and one quart of water. Cook in about two quarts of water, and strain through a colander before serving. The addition of a little flour thickening makes the soup smoother. Lentil and Tomato Soup. — Two and three fourths cups of lentils (measured after having been cooked and rubbed through a colander), one cup of strained tomato, one teaspoonful of nut butter, and two stalks of celery. To these add sufficient water to make the soup of the proper consistency. Heat to boiling, remove the celery, add salt to season, and one teaspoonful of browned flour rubbed to a paste with a little water. Boil for two or three minutes until the flour is cooked, then serve. Jalienne Soup. — Take an equal proportion of parsnip, turnip, cel- ery, and string beans, cut into thin pieces of inch lengths, sufficient to make one pint. Simmer the vegetables gently in a small quantity of water until tender, but not long enough to destroy their shape. Heat a quart of soup stock to boiling, add the vegetables, salt to taste, and serve. NUTS AND NUT FOODS. 423 Other vegetables, as peas, asparagus, etc., may be used in their sea- son. , Sometimes the vegetables are cut into dice or fancy shapes with a vegetable cutter. It makes little difference about the shape, so that the pieces are small and uniform in size. Such vegetables as potatoes, car- rots, or turnips, when used for soups, are most easily cut, after paring in the usual manner, by taking the vegetable in the left hand, holding it on the table or board between thumb and finger, and with the right hand cut- ting downward in even slices, not over one third of an inch wide, to within a quarter of an inch of the bottom. Turn the vegetable and repeat the process, cutting across the first slices. Again lay the vegetable on its side and make a third series of cuts, which will divide it into cubes. If several kinds of vegetables are used, those which require a longer time for cooking should be cut into smaller pieces. Asparagus Sonp. — This soup is prepared in every way like the one on page 276, except that soup stock is used instead of milk. Green pea soup, celery soup, green corn soup, and green beau soup may be prepared accord- ing to the recipes already given for these soups, by substituting for milk the same quantity of soup stock. Nut and Rice Soup.* — One fourth of a pound can of nut soup stock, eight cups water, two and one-half tablespooufals rice, two-thirds teaspoon- ful chopped onion, one-eighth to one-fourth teaspoonful sage, two and one- half teaspoonfuls salt. Nut and Barley Soup.*— One fourth of a pound can of nut soup stock, eight cups of water, two and one-half tablespoonfuls coarse pearled barley, two small sticks of celery, two and one-half to three teaspoonfuls of salt. Nut and Ripe Olire Soup.* — One fourth of a pound can of nut soup stock, six to six and one-half cups of water, two to two and one-half dozen ripe olives cooked for fifteen minutes in three-fourths cup water, four to five teaspoonfuls arrowroot (or two tablespoonfuls corn starch) blended with cold water, two to two and one-half teaspoonfuls salt. Nut and Leinon-juice Broth.*— One fourth of a pound can of nut soup stock, four cups water; heat to boiling, remove from the fire and add one to two teaspoonfuls lemon juice, and one and one-half to two teaspoonfuls salt. Nut and Lentil Soup.* — One-half cup of lentils, before cooking (about one and one-fourth after), one eighth of a pound can of nut soup stock, three to three and one-half cups water, two very small onions, one to one and one-fourth teaspoonfuls salt. For a dififerent soup, add one-half tea- spoonful of lemon juice. Nut and Grape-juice Fruit Soup.*— One fourth of a pound can of nut soup stock, four cups water, two cups undiluted Concord grape juice, eight tablespoonfuls seeded raisins, eight tablespoonfuls currants, and four table- spoonfuls citron, shredded. 424 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Fruit Soup. — In one cup of strawberry juice cook one teaspoonful of sago until transparent. Add one cup of pineapple juice, one tablespoonfu) of lemon juice, one tablespoonful of sugar. Serve hot as soon as well heated. Cherry or currant juice may be used in place of the strawberry juice. SANDWICHES. Few articles of the cuisine are capable of being served in so many and various forms as the time-honored sandwich. Bread- stuffs of some kind are the usual foundation for sandwiches, and anything which harmonizes in taste and digestibility with bread may be used as filling. Yeast bread is the more commonly used for the purpose, but wafers, split rolls, and toasted granose bis- cuit make excellent sandwiches, and are a degree more wholesome than loaf bread in that they contain no yeast, and are harder in texture, so that they necessitate more thorough mastication. There is another advantage in the use of wafers for sandwiches — they do not require to be first buttered before filling. Yeast bread, sliced from the loaf or split as when in the shape of biscuit, is so porous in character that a smearing of the surface with some kind of fatty substance is really needed to protect the crumb from becoming saturated when moist mixtures are used as filling ; hence it is customary to butter the slices when making sand- wiches. Both dairy and nut butters are used for the purpose, but some care needs to be taken that whatever is used shall harmo- nize in taste with the filling. Thin slices are preferable for sand- wiches. When the sandwiches have been spread and filled, they may be cut into a variety of pretty shapes. RECIPES. Ribbon Sand wicli.— Prepare a filling with one-half pound of protose, minced fine, three grated yolks of hard-boiled eggs, juice of one lemon, and salt to season; or the lemon may be omitted, and the protose and egg mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Cut whole-wheat bread into thin slices and Spread lightly with dairy or cocoanut butter. Upon a slice thus prepared spread the protose mixture, and cover with a second slice buttered on both sides. Spread this thickly with grape or cranberry jelly and cover with a third slice. Divide the whole by cutting diagonally into two or four sec- tions. Thinly split, well-toasted granose biscuit may be prepared into most appetizing sandwiches in the same manner. SANDWICHES. 425 Sweet Sandwich. — Flavor a half cup of almond butter, fresh from the can, with a tablespoonful of rosewater. Beat stiff the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of meltose; add this to the almond butter, and beat all to- gether. Spread between thin slices of bread, and serve.- Fig Sandwich. — Spread thin slices of bread or toasted whole-wheat wafers with cocoanut or almond butter. Place nicely steamed figs between the slices and serve. Olive Sandwich.*— Spread thin slices of bread with nut butter, anfl put in between two pieces a layer of ripe olives. Cut the sandwiches in fancy shapes, and garnish with the ruffled edge of lettuce. Ripe olives served in this way resemble a ham sandwich. Hulless Bean Sandwich.* — Left-over bean patties may be seasoned to taste with lemon juice and spread between buttered slices of bread for sandwiches. They are also nice mixed with salad dressing and then used for the sandwich filling. Potato Sandwich.*— Form mashed potatoes into patties the thickness of ordinary crackers. Put into an oiled baking dish and bake until the under crust is nice and brown. While the patties are in the oven, put one cup of cream into a small pan; salt slightly, and when at the boiling point add two hard-boiled egg yolks, minced fine; then moisten a level teaspoonful of corn starch in cold water and stir rapidly into the cream. Remove the pat- ties from the oven; place on a heated platter, alternately covering with the corresponding patty, putting the brown side up. Garnish with parsley or lettuce leaves and serve while hot. Fruit Sandwich.* — Between slices of bread which have been cut about one-fourth inch thick and spread with butter or nut butter, put a filling made by chopping very fine equal parts of steamed figs and nuts, moisten- ing them with water and lemon juice to form a paste. Dates, prunes, raisins, or currants may be used in place of figs. Calcutta Sandwich.*— Make a filling by mixing together one part of nuttolene, one part of nut butter, four parts of protose, salt and lemon juice to taste. Put through a fine sieve. This goes in between the first two layers. Between the next two layers spread red raspberry or cherry marma- lade mixed with chopped nuts, and on top serve a hard sauce. Into the center of each a cherry or small tomato may be inserted. Under each point put a small lettuce leaf. Protose Sandwich.* — Place slices of protose between thin slices of white or Graham bread, biscuit, or wafers, spread with nut butter. Protose Sandwich, No. 2. — Spread nicely browned wafers with nut but- ter, and place between them minced protose lightly seasoned with salt and lemon juice. Nut Sandwich. — Over chopped English walnuts pour the following dressing: Four yolks of eggs well beaten, juice of two lemons in a cup and enough water to fill the cup, one teaspoonful of salt and one of sugar. Let it cook until the eggs thicken. HERE is no branch of tb.e culinarj' art which requires L more skill than that of preparing food for the sick and feeble. The purpose of food at all times is to supply "^^ material for repairing the waste which is constantly going on in the vital economy ; and hence it ought always to be chosen with reference to its nutritive value. 15ut during ill- ness and convalescence, when the waste is often much greater and the vital powers less active, it is of the utmost importance that the food should be of such a character as will supply the proper nutrition. Nor is this all ; an article of food may contain all the elements of nutrition in such proportions as to render it a wholesome food for those in health, and not be a proper food for the sick, for the reason that its conversion into blood and tissue lays too great a tax upon tlie digestive organs. Food for the sick should be palatable, nutritious, and easily as- similated. To discriminate as to vrhat food will supply these requisites, one must possess seme knowledge of dietetics and physiology, as well as of the nature of the illness with which the patient is suffering; and such a knowledge ought to be [426] fOOD FOR THE SICK. ^27 part of the education of every woman, no matter to what class of society she belongs. There are no special dishes suitable alike for all cases. Hot buttered toast, tea, rich jellies, and other dainties so com- monly served to the sick, are usually the very worst articles of diet of which they could partake. As a general rule, elabor- ate dishes are not suitable. Well-cooked gruel, a nicely browned granose biscuit, a crisp, or some refreshing drink often serves far better than foods which combine a greater variety of ingredients, and require more ex- tensive preparation. The simplest foods are always the best, because the most readily assimilated. Scrupulous neatness and care in all the minute particulars of the cooking and serving of food for invalids, will add much to its palatableness. The clean napkin on the tray, the bright silver, and dainty china plate, with perhaps a sprig of leaves and flowers beside it, thinly sliced bread, toast or cracker, and the light cup partly filled with hot gruel, are far more appetiz- ing to the invalid than coarse ware, thickly cut bread, and an overflowing cup of gruel, though the cooking may be just as perfect. Anything that suggests excess or weight fatigues the sick. The appearance of milk served in a bowl, water in a mug, gruel in a saucer, though seemingly a trivial thing, is often sufficient to remove all desire for food. So far as practicable, the wants of the patient should be anticipated, and the meal served, a surprise. The capricious appetite of an invalid may sometimes be coaxed by arranging his simple food upon a tray so planned that in the napery and service-ware used, some one particular color predominates, and if this color be selected to accord or harmonize as far as possi- ble with the food allowed, the tout ensemble presents a pleasing fancy, which will tempt the eye, and through its influence, the appetite of the patient. For example : an invalid whose dietary must consist of fruit and grains, might be served to a "purple " dinner, with bill of fare including a fresh, cool bunch of purple grapes, a glass of unfermented grape juice, a saucer of black- berry mush, a plate of nicely toasted wafers, Graham puffs or 428 SCIENCE IN THE ICITCHEN. zwieback, with stewed prunes or a slice of prune toast, served on dishes decorated with purple. Tie the napkin with a bow of purple ribbon, and place a bunch of purple pansies just within its folds. The monotonous regimen of a poor dyspeptic might be rendered more enjoyable by a "yellow" dinner, in which poached eggs, beaten biscuit, wheat gluten, eggnog, with, perhaps, stewed peaches or an orange, are served on gilt- band china with a spray of goldenrod, a bunch of marigolds, or a water-lily to give an additional charm. Foods which are ordered to be served hot, should be hot, not merely warm, when they reach the patient. To facilitate this, let the dish in which the food is to be served, stand in hot water for a few moments ; take out, wipe dry, turn in the hot food, place on the tray, and serve. An oil stove, alcohol lamp, or a pocket stove is very convenient for warming gruels, broths, and other similar foods, as either can be made ready for use in a moment, and will heat the small quantity of food neces- sary for an invalid in one fourth the time in which it could be accomplished over the range, if necessary to rekindle the fire. In the preparation of food for the sick, a scrupulously clean dish for cooking is of the first importance. It is a good plan in every household to reserve one or two cooking uten- sils for this purpose, and not be obliged to depend upon those in daily use. Utensils used for the cooking of fruits, vege- tables, soup, etc., unless cleaned with the utmost care, will sometimes impart a sufficiently unpleasant flavor to the food to render it wholly unpalatable to an invalid whose senses are preternaturally acute. GRUELS. These simple foods, the base of which is usually some one of the grains, play an important part in the dietary for the sick, if properly prepared ; but the sloppy messes sometimes termed gruel, the chief merit of which appears to be that they " are prepared in ten minutes," are scarcely better than nothing at all. Like other dishes prepared from the grains, gruel needs a long, continuous cooking. When done, it should be the very essence FOOD FOR THE SICK. 429 Gruel Strainer. of the grain, possessing all its nutritive qualities, but in such form as to be readily assimilated. For the making of gruels, as for the cooking of grains for any other purpose, the double boiler is the best utensil. If it is desirable to strain the gruel before serving, have a fine wire strainer of a size to stand conveniently within a large bowl or basin, turn the gruel into this, and rub it through with a wooden or silver spoon, using a second spoon, if neces- sary, to remove that which hangs beneath the sieve. On no account use the first spoon for the latter operation, as by so doing one is apt to get some of the hulls into the gruel and destroy its smoothness. When as much of the gruel as possi- ble has been rubbed through the sieve, pour the strained liquid into a clean dish, reheat to boiling, and season as desired before serving. An extension strainer which can be fitted over any sized dish is also serviceable for straining gruels. Gruels, like all other foods, should be retained in the mouth for proper insalivation, and it is well to eat them with wafers or some hard food, when solid food is allowed. Extension Strainer, RECIPES. Arrowroot Gruel. — Rub a dessertspoonful ol pure arrowroot to a thin paste in two tablespoonfuls of cold water, and stir it into a half pint of boiling water, or, if preferred, a cup and a third of boiling milk, and stir rapidly until thickened and clear. If desired, a little lemon peel for fla- voring may be infused in the water or milk, before adding the arrowroot. Sweeten, if allowed, and serve. 430 SCIENCE IN TKE KITCHEN. Barley Gruel. — Wash three heaping tablespoonf uls of pearled barley, drop it into a pint of boiling water, and parboil five minutes. Pour this water off and add a quart of fresh boiling water. Let it simmer gently for three hours. Strain, season, and serve. A small piece of lemon rind added to the gruel a half hour before it is done, gives it a very agreeable flavor. Equal quantities of milk and barley gruel make a very nourishing drink; the milk, however, should not be added to the gruel until needed, as in a warm atmosphere it undergoes quite rapid change, and is likely to ferment. A little lemon juice, with sugar to sweeten, almond cream, or malted nuts is excellent seasoning for barley gruel. Egg Gruel. — Heat a cup of milk to boiling, and stir into it one well- beaten egg mixed with one fourth cup of cold milk. Stir constantly for a few minutes till thickened, but do not allow it to boil again. Season with a little salt, or if preferred and allowed, a little loaf sugar. Egg Gruel No. 2.— Boil the yolks of three eggs until dry and mealy, mash perfectly smooth, then add a cup of boiling milk. Season with salt, and serve. Fariua Grnel. — Moisten two tablespoonf uls of farina with a very little water, and stir it into a cupful of boiling water. Boil until it thickens, add a cupful of new milk or almond cream, turn into a double boiler, and cook again for twenty or thirty minutes. Strain if necessary, season with salt or sugar, and serve. Flour Gruel. — Rub one heaping tablespoonful of whole-wheat flour to a thin paste with three tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and stir it into a pint of boiling milk. Cook for ten or twelve minutes. Season with salt, strain if necessary, and while hot, stir in the beaten white of one egg. The egg may be omitted if preferred; or the yolk^of the egg and a little sugar may be used instead, if the patient's condition will allow it. Gluten Gruel. — Stir two and one half tablespoonfuls of the wheat glu- ten prepared by the Sanitarium Food Co., Battle Creek, Mich., into a pint of boiling milk; boil until thickened, when it is ready to serve. Gluten Grnel No. 2.— Into a pint of boiling water stir three heaping tablespoonfuls of the prepared gluten. Boil until thickened, and add a half cup of thin cream or nut cream. Gluten Cream. — Into a pint of boiling malted nuts stir three table- spoonfuls of wheat gluten. When thickened, it is ready to serve. Gluten Meal Grnel.— Into a cup and a half of boiling water stir four tablespoonfuls of gluten meal (prepared by the Sanitarium Food Co.), let it boil for a moment, add six tablespoonfuls of rather thin sweet cream or almond cream, and serve. Graham Gruel.— Heat three cups of water in the inner dish of a double boiler, and when vigorously boiling stir into it carefully, a little at a FOOD FOR THE SICK. 431 time, so as not to check the boiling, one scant cup of Graham flour which has been rubbed perfectly smooth in a cup of warm, not hot, water. Stir until thickened, then place in the outer boiler and cook for an hour or longer. When done, strain if necessary, season with salt, and if desired, a half cup of sweet cream. Wheatose Gruel. — Cook three heaping tablespoonfuls of wheatose in a quart of boiling water, as directed in the chapter on Grains, for three hours. Turn through a soup strainer to remove any lumps, season with half a cup of cream, and salt if desired. Well cooked wheatose may be made into gruel by thinning with water or milk, straining and seasoning as above. Malted nuts may be used in place of cream. Grnel of Prepared Flour.— Knead a pint of flour with water into a ball, and tie firmly in a linen cloth ; put it into a granite-ware basin or kettle, cover with boiling water, and boil slowly, replenishing with boiling water as needed, for twelve hours. Put it before the fire to dry. Afterward remove the cloth, and also a thick skin which will have formed over the ball. Dry the interior again. When needed for use, rub a tablespoonful of the prepared flour smooth with three spoonfuls of cold milk, and stir it into a pint of boiling milk. Cook from three to five minutes. Season with salt if desired. Indian Meal Gruel. — Make a thin paste of one teaspoonful of flour, two tablespoonfuls of best cornmeal, and a little water. Stir this into a quart of boiling water, or milk and water in equal proportions, as pre- ferred. Boil until the meal has set, stirring constantly ; then turn into a double boiler and cook for an hour and a half or two hours. Season with salt, and strain. If too thick, thin with water or cream. Lemon Oatmeal Gruel. — The United States Dispensary recommends the following method of preparing oatmeal gruel for fever patients : "Rub one heaping tablespoonful of fine oatmeal smooth in a little cold water ; stir this into three pints of boiling water. Cook until the quan- tity is reduced to two pints ; then strain, and let it cool and settle. When it is quite cold, pour the clear gruel from the sediment, add the jiilce of a lemon, and sugar to sweeten slightly. If desirable to serve it warm, reheat before adding the lemon juice." Freshly cooked oatmeal may be thinned with boiling water, strained and seasoned in the same manner. Milk Oatmeal Gruel. — Take a pint of milk and one of water, and heat to boiling. Stir in three heaping tablespoonfuls of oatmeal, and cook in a double boiler for two or three hours. MUk Porridge. — Take one pint of milk and the same quantity of water, and heat to boiling. Stir in two heaping tablespoonfuls of corn- meal or wheatose, boil, stirriug continuously, until the meal has set, 432 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. then turn into a double boiler and cook for two hours or longer. Season with salt, and a tablespoonful of sweet cream if allowed. Oatmeal Gruel. — Into one quart of boiling water stir two heaping tablespoonfuls of fine oatmeal ; let it boil until it thickens, stirring all the time ; then turn into a double boiler and cook for three and a half or four hours. Strain before serving. A little cream may also be added, unless contra-indicated by the patient's condition. Oatmeal Gruel No. 2. — Pound one half cup of coarse oatmeal until it is mealy. The easiest way to do this is to tie the oatmeal in a coarse cloth and pound it with a wooden mallet. Put it in a pint bowl, and fill the bowl with cold water. Stir briskly for a few moments until the water is white, then allow the meal to settle. Pour off the water, being careful to get none of the sediment. Fill the bowl a second time with cold water, stir thoroughly, let settle, and pour off the water as before. Do this the third time. Boil the liquid one half hour, strain, and serve hot. If very thick, a little almond cream may be added. Oatmeal Gruel No. 3. — Add to one cup of well-cooked oatmeal while hot two cups of hot milk, or one cup of hot milk and one of hot water. Beat all thoroughly together, add a little salt if desired, strain, and serve. Peptonized Gluten Gruel. — Prepare the gruel as directed for Gluten Gruel No. i. Strain if needed, cool to lukewarm, and turn it into a pitcher, which place in a dish containing hot water even in depth with the gruel in the pitcher ; add the peptonizing fluid or powder, stir well, and let it stand in the hot water bath for ten minutes. The temperature must not be allowed to rise over 130°. Put into a clean dish and serve at once, or place on ice till needed. Other well-cooked gruels may be peptonized in the same way. Raisin Gruel. — Stone and quarter two dozen raisins and boil them twenty minutes in a small quantity of water. When the water has nearly boiled away, add two cups of new milk. When the milk is boiling, add one heaping tablespoonful of Graham or whole-wheat flour which has been rubbed to a thin paste with a little cold milk. Boil until thickened, siu- ring all the time ; then turn into a double boiler and cook for twenty min- utes or half an hour. Season with salt and serve. Bice Water. — Wash half a cup of rice very thoroughly in several waters. Put it into a saucepan with three cups of cold water and boil for half an hour. Strain off the rice water, season with salt if desired, and serve. Toasted Com Flake Gmel.* — Boil together for fifteen minutes one pint of water and one cupful of toasted corn flakes. When done, salt to taste, and serve hot. A little tomato may be added together with bean broth. FOOD FOR THE SICK. 433 PREPARATIONS OF MILK. Milk Diet. — An almost exclusive milk diet is sometimes made use of in cases of sickness. It is usually necessary to begin the use of the milk in moderate quantities, gradually withdrawing the more solid food and increasing the quantity of milk. In the course of a week, all other food should be withdrawn, and the quantity of milk increased to three or four quarts a day. Only milk which has been carefully sterilized should be made use of for this purpose. Kumyss or buttermilk is much better than ordinary milk. RECIPES. Albmnlnlzed Milk. — Shake together in a well-corked bottle or glass fruit can a pint of fresh milk and the well-beaten whites of two eggs, until thoroughly mixed. Serve at once. Hot Milk. — The milk should be fresh, and should be heated in a double boiler until the top is wrinkled over the entire surface. Junket, or Milk Cnrd. — Heat a cup of fresh milk to 85°, add one teaspoonful of the essence of pepsin, and stir just enough to mix thor- oughly. Let it stand until firmly curded, and serve. Eonmiss. — Dissolve one fourth of a two-cent cake of compressed yeast, and two teaspoonfuls of white sugar, in three tablespoonfuls of lukewarm water. Pour this into a quart bottle and add sufficient fresh, sweet milk to nearly fill. Shake well, and place in a room of the tem- perature of 70° to 80° P., and allow it to ferment about six hours. Cork tightly and tie the cork in. Put in a cool place, not above 60°, and let it remain a week, when it will be ready for use. In making koumiss be sure that the milk is pure, the bottle sound, and the yeast fresh. Open the bottle with a champagne tap. ^ there is any curd or thickening resembling cheese, the fermentation has been prolonged beyond the proper point, and the koumiss should not be used. Milk and Lime Water. — In cases where milk forms large curds, or sours in the stomach, lime water prepared in the following manner may be added to the milk before using : — Into a gallon jar of water, put a piece of lime the size of one's fist. Cover the jar and let the lime settle over night. In the morning, draw the water off the top with a syphon, being careful not to move the jar so as to mix again the particles of lime with the water. 28 434 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Two tablespoonfuls of the lime water is usually sufficient for a pint of milk. Peptonized Milk for Infants. — One gill of cows' milk, fresh and un- skimmed ; one gill of pure water ; two tablespoonfuls of rich, sweet cream ; two hundred grains of milk sugar ; one and one fourth grains of extractum pancreatis ; four grains of sodium bicarbonate. Put the above in a clean nursing bottle, and place the bottle in water so warm that the whole hand cannot be held in it longer than one minute without pain. Keep the milk at this temperature for exactly twenty minutes. Prepare fresh just before using. LIQUID FOODS, BROTHS, ETC. Beef tea and meat broths are by no means so useful as foods for the sick as is generally supposed. The late Dr. Austin Flint used to say of these foods, that " the valuation by most persons outside of the medical profession, and by many within it, of beef tea or its analogues, the various solutions, most of the extracts, and the expressed juice of meat, is a delusion and a snare which has led to the loss of many lives by starvation. "The quantity of nutritive material in these preparations is insignificant or nil, and it is vastly important that they should be reckoned as of little or no value, except as indirectly con- ducive to nutrition by acting as stimulants for the secretion of the digestive fluids, or as vehicles for the introduction of the nutritive substances. Furthermore, it is to be considered that water and pressure not only fail to extract the alimentary prin- ciples of meat, but that the excrementitious principles, or the products of destructive assimilation, are thereby extracted." Vegetable broths prepared from grains and legumes possess a much higher nutritive value, while they lack the objection- able features of meat broths. REOIPES. Tegetable Broth. — Put a cupful of well washed white beans into a quart of cold water in a double boiler, and cook slowly until but a cupful of the liquor remains. Strain off the broth, add salt, and serve hot. If preferred, a few grains of powdered thyme may be added as flavoring. FOOD FOR THE SICK. 435 Tegetable Broth No. 2. — Pick over and wash a cup of dried Scotch peas, and put to cook in a quart of cold water, cook slowly in a double boiler or in a kettle placed on the range where they will just simmer, until but a cupful of liquid remains. Strain off the broth, add salt and one third of a cupful of the liquor, without pulp, from well-stewed toma- toes. Serve hot. Mixed Tegetable Broths. — Broths may be prepared as directed from both black and white beans, and combined in the proportion of one third of the former to two thirds of the latter ; or a broth of lentils may be used instead of the black bean. Vegetable Bouillon,*— Reserve the broth from navy beans which have been cooked in the inner cup of a double boiler, and also the broth from protose which has been cut up fine and cooked for at least two hours in a double boiler. Mix equal quantities of protose and bean broth and tomato juice; season with salt and celery salt and heat before serving. Protose Broth.* — Boil one cup of protose which has been cut, for about two hours over a hot fire, season to taste, with salt, and when done put through a fine sieve. Serve hot with well-toasted whole-wheat wafers, or zwieback. Malted liuts. — This is a food especially beneficial for invalids of nearly every class, particularly those suffering from consumption, neuras- thenia, Bright's disease, dyspepsia, and other diseases of digestion. Its nature is indicated by its name. In appearance it resembles malted milk, and may be used dry, as it is readily soluble in hot or cold water, may be made into a rich creamy liquid of a consistency suited to the taste, to be used as a beverage, or to be eaten with zwieback, wafers, or other hard breads. Malted nuts may also take the place of milk in the preparation of custards, and as a dressing for grains and desserts for the sick. A small quantity added to caramel-cereal forms an excellent substitute for both the milk and the sugar usually considered so desirable with this beverage. Meltose. — This is a liquid, predigested food, representing the perfectly digested starch of cereals. It is delicately sweet in flavor, and may be eaten as freely as bread without injury. It is an invaluable food in all forms of wasting disease, emaciation, convalescence from fevers, various diges- tive disorders, and anemia. It is a fat-forming food par excellence. Com- bined with granose, meltose makes an ideal dry food, in a form best adapted to quick digestion and perfect assimilation. Meltose makes an excellent dressing for rice, corn meal, and other grain preparations. 43^ ' SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Bromose is a perfect aliment, in composition the same as malted nuts. Put up in tablets resembling caramels, it is ready to eat at once, or it may be dissolved in water and used as a beverage, or as a liquid food. It is an excellent accompaniment for apples, peaches, and other acid and subacid fruits, and is well suited to cases requiring a fruit and nut diet. Almond Cream. — Add water, a little at a time, to any desired quantity of almond butter, stirring until completely dissolved and of the desired consistency. Use the same as dairy cream, as a dressing for grains and desserts, or for the preparation of custards and puddings. Hot Almond Milk. — To two tablespoonfuls of almond butter add water, a few spoonfuls at a time, beating it thoroughly meanwhile, until the whole is of the consistency of milk. Heat just to the boiling point, add a little salt if desired, and serve. This may be partaken of the same as hot dairy milk, or may be served with such dry grain preparations as granose flakes, nuttola, granuto, and granola. Almond Milk with Lemon. — Prepare the same as above, adding a tea- spoonful of lemon juice to the glass of milk. Orange and pineapple juice and other fruit juices may also be used with the nut milk. Sanitas PonidgB. — Heat to boiling one cup of thin cream added to a pint of water. Into this stir two thirds of a cup of Sanitas Infant Food or enough to thicken to the desired consistency. A little salt may be added if desired. Serve hot. In place of the cream, nut cream or malted nuts may be used if preferred. Potato Meal Pnr^e.— Stir into one pint of boiling water three table- spoonfuls of cocoanut cream and three heaping tablespoonfuls of potato meal, which has previously been braided with enough cold water (about three fourths of a pint will be needed) so that it will pour readily. If liked, the meal may be braided with thin, strained, stewed tomato instead of water. SaTory Potat» Meal Puree.— Prepare the same as in the preceding, having first steeped in the water for a few minutes three stalks of celery cut in one-inch pieces, or one small onion, or if preferred, one half as much of both. Remove the pieces of onion or celery with a fork before stirring in the meal. Potato Meal Omelet.— Prepare a Potato Meal Puree as directed in a foregoing recipe. To one cupful of the pur6e, which should be quite stiff, add three well-beaten eggs. Turn into cups or timbale molds, and steam until the egg is well set. Serve plain or with a tomato sauce. Malted nuts, meltose, bromose, and Sanitas infant food are manufactured and sold by the Sanitas Nut Food Co., Battle Creek, Mich. FOOD FOR THE SICK. 437 Potato Meal Porridge.— Prepare the same as for Potato Meal Pur^e, using two instead of three large spoonfuls of the potato meal. This may be served plain or flavored with celery salt or a few drops of onion juice. It may also be varied by adding to the plain porridge one well-beaten egg or the yolks only of two eggs. Potato Meal Porridge, No. 2. — Prepare some Potato Meal Pur6e as directed in a preceding recipe. When thickened, add an equal quantity of strained, stewed tomato, and serve hot. Potato Meal Porridge, No. 8. — Prepare some Protose Bouillon as directed elsewhere, and thicken with potato meal in the proportion of two large spoonfuls of meal, well braided with cold water, to the pint of broth. This may be served plain or flavored with onion or celery. GRAINS FOR THE SICK. For invalids able to digest solid foods, rice, browned rice, browned wheat, gluten flour, and other grains may be prepared and cooked as previously directed in the chapter on Grains. The various cooked preparations of grains — granola, gra- nose, wheatena, avenola, granuto, wheat gluten, and gluten meal — manufactured by the Sanitarium Food Co. , Battle Creek, Mich. , form excellent articles of diet for many invalids, when served with fruits and fruit juices or malted nuts. Several RECIPES. Glnten Mash. — Heat together a cup of thin cream and three cups of water ; when boiling, sift in lightly with the fingers, stirring continuously meanwhile, enough wheat gluten to make a mush of the desired consist- ency. Boil up once and serve. A few blanched or roasted almonds may be stirred in just before serving, if desired. Tomato Gluten. — Heat a pint of stewed tomato, which has been rubbed through a fine colander to remove the seeds, to boiling, add salt to season, and three tablespoonfuls of gluten meal. Boil together for a moment until thickened, and serve hot. Tomato Gluten No. 2. — Prepare the same as the preceding, using five tablespoonfuls of the gluten meal, and seasoning with two tablespoonfuls of rather thick, sweet cream. 438 SCIfiNCfi iN tHfi KITCHEN. Baked Apples with Gluten Mush.*— Pare and remove the cores from tart apples; fill the cavities with sugar, and add a few spoonfuls of water; bake until tender, turning to keep them whole ; serve hot after filling the centers with well-cooked gluten mush. Touted Wheat Fiakeg.— This is a preparation of wheat which repre- sents the whole grain, each flake being an entire kernel of wheat having only the rough exterior removed. The grain in the process of preparation is subjected to thorough cleansing and sterilization without the sacrifice of any of the nutritive elements. It is also so perfectly dextrinized in process of manufacture that it is very readily digested. To Prepare for the Table.— Scatter a quart of the dry flakes over the bottom of a pan. Fit a flat-bottomed pan-colander, those the size and shape of a milk-pan are best suited to the purpose, over the pan, and pour a cupful of boiling water through it over the flakes, taking care that the water is evenly distributed over the whole, cover and steam for a moment, first lifting lightly with a fork and serve with cream, nut cream, fruit sauces or fruit juices. When rightly-prepared, the flakes will be light, and each flake separate. Tomatoes with Toasted Wheat Flakes.*— Add to one can of tomatoes two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one tablespoonful of nut butter, and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Thicken with one level tablespoonful of flour, and serve hot with toasted wheat flakes. Toasted Wheat Flakes with Oranges.*— Cut oranges into halves and serve on a fruit plate on which an orange spoon has been placed. Serve at the same time a dish of freshly toasted wheat flakes together with malted nuts or nut meats of any kind. Toasted Wheat Flakes with Sliced Bananas.*— Have ready in a deep bowl some freshly toasted wheat flakes, add to them bananas cut in slices crosswise ; sprinkle the whole with malted nuts, and serve. Granuto.* — This is a product of grains and nuts. It contains all the elements of nutrition, and in the proportions necessary for maintaining the body in the highest state of health. It may be eaten dry, dissolved in water, milk, fruit juices, or other liquids, or used in the preparation of desserts and other dishes in which crumbs or other granular preparations are generally used. Granuto Cakes.— Cook for a moment one cup of Granuto in two-thirds cup of salted water. Cool, and add one beaten egg. Beat well and drop in spoonfuls on a slightly oiled griddle. Brown slightly on one side, and turn; do not turn the second time. Serve at once with dairy or nut cream, dairy or nut butter, fruit sauce, or sweet fruit pulp. These cakes are also deli- cious served with stewed green peas. tf66D FOR THE SICK. 439 Orannto and Malted Nuts Gruel, for Oue.— Three-fourths cup water, two teaspoonfuls malted nuts, one tablespoonful granuto ; salt. Heat water to boiling, stir in granuto and malted nuts mixed, and simmer for two or three minutes. Add salt, and serve. Granuto with Almond or Peanut Cream.*— Dilute almond or peanut butter with water to the consistency of cream. Serve with freshly toasted granuto. Some like a pinch of salt added to the granuto. Granuto and Baked Banana.*— Grind granuto moderately fine ; add a pinch of salt, and roll in it peeled bananas until thoroughly covered. Lay the bananas in a granite basin, cover with strawberry juice and bake until the juice is almost cooked away. Baste with the juice while cooking. Serve a little of the thick syrup on each banana. Granose Flakes as it comes from the box, after being lightly browned by placing for a few moments in a rather hot oven, is excellent eaten dry, the same as bread. It forms thus one of the best foods for invalids of all classes. It is likewise a most excellent food for children and the aged. It may also be served with cream, nut cream, fruit juices or fruit sauces. GranoBe Flakes with Egg. — Granose is an excellent accompaniment of soft-boiled or poached eggs. Serve the eggs, when cooked, with a spoonful or two of the dry granose in each individual dish. Manna. — Over nicely toasted granose iiakes pour sufiBcient meltose to flavor. Carefully lift the flakes with a fork until the meltose is thoroughly mixed with them. Serve in an individual pudding dish as the first course for breakfast. Granose Fruit Dessert. — Prepare a fruit pulp by rubbing stewed grapes, cranberries, tart apples, or prunes through a colander ; sweeten to taste, and evaporate to about the consistency of marmalade. Spread a thin layer of dry granose in the bottom of the pudding dish, and then fill the dish with alternate layers of fruit and granose, finishing with a layer of granose on the top. Let it stand for an hour or so, until the flakes have become slightly moistened. Cut in squares and serve. In its perfection, this des- sert should be neither mushy nor variegated with dried granose, but each flake throughout should be delicately moistened with the fruit pulp. Thus it will be if care is taken in the preparation of the fruit pulp, and no more granose used than the fruit will moisten. Granose Fruit Pie. — Brown granose flakes lightly in a hot oven, then moisten very slightly with almond cream. A little nut meal may be mixed with the granose flakes instead of moistening them, if preferred. Place a layer of the granose on a pie plate in the shape of a piece of pie, spread on this a thick layer of lightly mashed and sweetened berries, peaches, or very mellow sweet apples, cover with a thin layer of granose flakes, and sen-e. ■440 SCIENCE IF THE KITCHEN. Granose Slioricakc— Cowr [be bottom ot a snallow pudding dish with a thin layer of dry granose, add a layer oi fresh strawberries, chopped and slightly sweetened, then a second layer of granose. Fill the dish thus with alternate layers of granose and berries. Set away in a cool place for an hour, when it will be ready to serve. Cut in squares. No dressing is required. This is a delicious dish, and one which is as wholesome as deli- cate. Raspberries and other small fruits may be used in the same manner. Granose Biscuits^ — These, when split and toasted over glowing coals or a gas jet until nicely browned on both sides, form one of the most desir- able grain foods for the sick. They may be served as a bread with maltol, with nuttolene, with fruit sauce, fruit juice, milk and cream, vegetables, fresh fruits, as a toast with any preferred dressing, or as an accompani- ment of gruel or other liquid foods. Toasted Corn Flakes.— Heat the Corn Flakes for a few moments in a rather hot oven and serve while still hot with a dressing of cream, cocoanut cream, almond cream, or the rich juice of blueberries, black raspberries, or other sub-acid fruits. Poached Eggs on Corn Flakes.— Put a few of the crisp Flakes on an in- dividual platter ; warm in the oven and drop on them two nicely poached or soft-boiled eggs ; sprinkle the eggs slightly with salt, garnish with parsley, and serve. Toasted Corn Flake Porridge.— Put dry Corn Flakes into the porridge bowl, pour sterilized milk or cream — hot or cold as preferred — over it, and eat at once. The addition of sugar spoils the nutty flavor of Corn Flakes, besides forming a combination which causes fermentation. Drop Cake.— Beat separately the whites and yolks of three eggs, beat- ing the yolks first, to which one third of a cup of sugar is added. Before beating the whites, add a pinch of salt, and when very stiff, carefully fold in the beaten yolks, which should be stiff, and two and one-half cups of freshly toasted corn flakes. Corn Flakes with Fruit.— On individual pie plates put a handful of crisp Corn Flakes. Dip carefully over them some stewed apples, sweetened as for sauce, and sprinkle Flakes lightly over the top. Serve at once. Whortleberries, cranberries, prunes, peaches, or any other stewed fruit may be used in place of the apples, or a cooked cream or lemon filling. Fresh peaches sliced, slightly sprinkled with sugar, or fresh berries used in the same way make a most appetizing dish. Cocoanut Cream or dairy cream may be considered an addition by some. FOOD FOR tun SICE. 441 FRUITS FOR THE SICK. While fruits may with advantage form a part of the daily bill of fare for the person in health, they are particularly essen- tial in many cases of illness and convalescence. Says Dr. J. H. Kellogg: — " Fruits without doubt formed a leading constituent, perhaps the chief element, in the original bill of fare of the human race, just as they now do in that of the gorilla, the chimpanzee, and the orang-outang, the classes of lower animals which come next to man in the scale of being, and the majority of savage tribes whose habits have not been modified by contact with civilized man. ' ' The many popular errors concerning the indigestion of fruits are perhaps responsible for their sparing use. Lack of knowledge respecting their great value in a variety of diseased conditions must also be held responsible to a considerable degree for the fact that they occupy so small a place in the usual bill of fare of civilized nations. ' ' The value of the ' grape cure ' in certain forms of intesti- nal disease has long been known. The ' apple cure, ' the ' peach cure, ' and the ' strawberry cure ' have each had their advocates as rivals to the 'grape cure.' A recent writer on medical die- tetics remarks that the rationale of the ' grape cure ' and other forms of fruit cures is not yet understood. We differ. ' ' Recent bacteriological investigations have shown clearly fhat those micro-organisms which are most abundant in certain forms of indigestion, particularly those accompanied by so-called biliousness, coated tongue, bad taste in the mouth, etc. , do not thrive in any fruit juice, and die quickly in grape juice. This fact shows quite conclusively that the value of a fruit dietary in indigestion is chiefly due to the germ-destroying properties of the fruit juices. 44^ SCIENCE tN THE KitCHEN. "This action of fruit juices is doubtless due to the acids which they contain. Professor Koch, of Berlin, has conclu- sively demonstrated the fact that a small quantity of citric acid added to a glass of water is capable of destroying all disease- producing germs which it may contain. Other fruit acids seem to have similar properties. At any rate, the writer's experi- ments show that the juices of grapes, apples, lemons, and other acid fruits remain sterile when inoculated with stomach fluid which gives rise to a very abundant bacterial growth when inocu- lated into beef -tea, gelatine, and other nutrient media of animal origin. ' ' The germicidal property of fruits renders them of immense value in the treatment of biliousness, nervous headache, sick- headache, fevers, and the stomachal and intestinal disorders of both children and adults. It is necessary, of course, to adapt the particular kind of fruit eaten and the form in which it is presented, to the digestive organs of each individual case. It is also necessary to note that fruits are not compatible with all other kinds of foods. For example, fruits and vegetables con- stitute a poor combination for persons suffering from slow diges- tion as the result of dilatation or prolapse of the stomach, or hypopepsia. Acid fruits and cereals are not a good combination in cases of hyperpepsia, because of the excessive acidity of the stomach whereby the gastric digestion of starch is seriously interfered with. ' ' Fruits are certainly of great value in many forms of dis- ease, because of the acids which they contain. These acids, when taken into the blood, break up some of the compounds of waste substances which have been formed, and thus give rise to an increased excretion of these substances through the kidneys. In this way fruits are a great advantage in the treatment of rheu- matism, gout, gravel, and all the different morbid conditions which accompany the so-called uric-acid diatheses. ' ' Remembering the interesting fact pointed out by Bou- chard, that rheumatism isreally a poisoned condition resulting POOD FOR THE &1(1Z. 443 from the decomposition of food stuffs in a dilated or prolapsed stomach, we may also attribute the beneficial effects of a fruit diet in rheumatism and allied conditions to its value in suppress- ing the formation of poisonous substances in the alimentary canal. "Obesity, which is, like rheumatism, a diathesis, may be successfully treated by a fruit dietary. This is due not only to the fact that fruit is a natural food, and thus aids the system to establish normal tissue changes and a normal balance between the processes of assimilation and disassimilation, but also because it affords a very comfortable means of reducing the amount of nutrient material received to a minimum quantity. "Fruit is chiefly water, the amount of nutrient material it contains varying from five to eight or ten per cent in most fruits, rising to a higher figure only in dried fruits, such as dried grapes, prunes, dates, etc. The writer has succeeded in reduc- ing excessive weight in the most satisfactory manner by prescrib- ing a diet consisting almost exclusively of grapes or apples, allowing only a small bit of thoroughly dried bread or zwieback in connection with the fruit. In some cases the fruit may be allowed as often as three or four times a day, to relieve an uncomfortable sensation of emptiness. ' ' In fevers, fruits, especially in the form of fruit juices, are a most convenient and certainly the most appropriate of all foods. It is now almost universally recognized that beef tea and meat preparations of all sorts should be wholly proscribed in cases of fever, as the patient is already suffering from the accumulation of waste matters to such a degree that the addi- tion of even the small amount contained in beef tea or a small piece of meat, may be sufficient to give rise to an exacerbation of the disease, and lessen the patient's chances for recovery. "German physicians make great use of preparations of fruits in fevers, particularly of fruit soup, which is made by boiling for some time one part of dried fruit of some sort with four or five parts of water. In cases in which considerable irritation of the stomach and intestines exists, the soup or decoction thus pre- 444 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. pared should be carefully strained, so as thoroughly to remove the skins and all other extraneous matters. The juice of oranges, grapes, raspberries, blackberries, huckleberries, tamarinds, cur- rants, or cranberries may be added to water as a beverage in fevers. Thus used, they not only increase the quantity of water which the patient is enabled to drink, by giving to it a distinct and agreeable flavor, but also aid the elimination of poisons with which the system is struggling, by a slight diuretic action. Fruit juices used in the same way are likewise highly beneficial in Bright's disease and other forms of kidney disease. The grape- fruit, the lime, the shaddock, and the pomegranate also afford agreeable acid juices which may be used in the same manner. The antiseptic value of fruit juices must also be recognized as a positive benefit in these cases. " There is no single article of diet of such great value in the treatment of intestinal inactivity or constipation as fruits. For this purpose fruits must be eaten freely, being taken, as a rule, in cases of this sort, at the beginning of the meal or a little while before it. Fruit is most effective when taken by itself in this manner. Raw apples, steamed figs, peaches, apricots when not too ripe, prunes, oranges, and tamarinds are of the greatest value for this purpose. Tamarinds or pomegranates furnish an acid from which a very pleasant beverage may be prepared. Tamarinds used in this way sometimes serve a useful purpose in cases of constipation. " Persons who employ a fruit diet for the relief of chronic symptoms such as rheumatism, neurasthenia, sick-headache, etc., should not, however, expect to be cured in a few days or a few weeks, but should adopt the free use of fruit as a regular practice. In cases of periodical sick-headache, which is almost always connected with dilatation of the stomach, the patient may advantageously adopt the plan of systematically confining himself to a fruit diet for one or two days preceding the time of the expected attack; or it may be sufficient to con- fine the diet to fruit for a single one of the daily meals, as for breakfast. Persons who require a fruit diet are generally bene- FOOD FOR THE SICK. 445 fited by an adoption of the two-meal-a-day plan, nothing being taken after three or four o'clock in the afternoon, so that the stomach may be prepared as thoroughly as possible for the reception of fruit the next day. As regards the particular fruit to be eaten for special conditions, the most important thing to be said is that fruits, if possible, be taken fresh, and as soon after reaching maturity as possible. . Canned fruit and dried fruits are inferior to fresh fruit; still they are far better than none, and if properly prepared, they may render very great service. Each fruit has its own special adaptation and limitations. ' ' Apples may be eaten either raw, stewed, or baked. If eaten raw, they should be thoroughly ripened, else in mastica- tion large masses will enter the stomach in a condition to interfere with digestion, giving rise to fermentation or other disagreeable symptoms. ' ' Pears may be cooked in the same way as apples, but are less useful in relieving constipation, and are not usually so read- ily obtained. Pears, however, have the advantage over apples that they are usually of a more mild and palatable flavor, so that they do not require the addition of sugar, which is often added to sour fruit in such excessive quantities as to render the fruit entirely unwholesome. Instead of adding cane sugar to sour fruit, the better plan is to mingle together sour and sweet fruits. "The pineapple, as well as the lemon, orange, grape fruit, tamaripd, guava, pomegranate, sapota, and other tropical fruits are as valuable as they are palatable, and ought to be freely used when obtainable. ' ' There is perhaps nothing better for checking hemorrhage from the stomach than the pure juice of one or two lemons, swallowed quickly. Nosebleed may be stopped by snuffing lemon juice into the nostril from which the blood issues. "Pineapples, when allowed to mature upon the plant, are extremely palatable and luscious, and almost as easily digested as the peach, although containing considerable more woody mat- 446 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. ter; but in the state in which they are usually obtained in this country, they are quite indigestible if eaten raw, and only the juice should be swallowed. The juice of the pineapple contains a digestive principle similar to pepsin. It may be used with advantage as an application to the throat in diphtheria. ' ' The strawberry, which is one of the most popular favor- ites of all the various kinds of domestic fruits, is generally well received by the most delicate stomachs, if care is taken to avoid rendering it indigestible by the addition of cream and sugar, ice cream, etc. The better varieties of strawberries are sufficiently sweet, and require no sugar. They are best when fresh, being less well adapted to canning than almost any other fruit. The strawberry is said to contain a larger proportion of iron in its water-free constituents than any other fruit. There is occasion- ally a person who can not eat strawberries because of some idio- syncrasy, as the result of which an exceedingly troublesome rash appears. " A combination of fruits with nuts which have been thor- oughly cooked and completely disintegrated is found of great value. ' Fig bromose,' ' nut bromose,' and a number of other similar products have proved of great value in the treat- ment of chronic constipation and various other conditions in which a fruit and nut diet is indicated." EGGS FOR THE SICK. Care should be taken that eggs used for the sick are unex- ceptional in quality. Not only does the food consumed by the fowl affect their quality, but the shell being porous, eggs may become contaminated with disease germs. RECIPES. Floated Hgg. — Separate the white from the yolk, and drop the yolk, taking great care not to break it, into boiling, salted water. Cook until hard and mealy. In the meantime, beat the white of the egg until stiff and firm. When the yolk is cooked, remove it from the water with a skimmer. Let the water cease to boil, then dip the beaten white in FOOD FOR THE SICK. 447 spoonfuls on the top of the scalding water, allowing it to remain for a second or two until coagulated, but not hardened. Arrange the white in a hot egg saucer, and place the cooked yolk in the center, or serve on toast. This makes a very pretty, as well as appetizing dish, if care is taken to keep the yolk intact. Gluten Meal Cnstard. — Beat together thoroughly one pint of almond cream, one egg, and four tablespoonfuls of gluten meal. Add salt if de- sired, and cook with the dish set in another containing boiling water, until the custard has set. Or, turn the custard into cups, which place in a dripping pan partly filled with hot water, and cook in a moderate oven until the custard is set. Gluten Custard. — Into a quart of boiling milk stir four tablespoonfuls of wheat gluten moistened with a little of the milk, which may be reserved for the purpose. Allow it to cook until thickened. Cool to lukewarm temperature, and add three well-beaten eggs, and a trifle of salt, if desired. Turn into cups, and steam over a kettle of boiling water until the custard is set. Steamed Egrgs. — Break an egg into an egg saucer, sauce-dish, or patty pan, salt very slightly, and steam until the white has just set. In this way, it will retain its shape perfectly, and not be mixed with the few drops of water so annoying to invalids, and so hard to avoid in dishing a poached egg from water. Soft Cnstard. — Boil some milk, then cool it to i8o°, add three whipped eggs to each quart of milk, and keep at the temperature of i8o° for fifteen or twenty minutes. The object is to coagulate the eggs without producing the bad effect of exposure to a high temperature. Baw Egg's. — Break a fresh egg into a glass, add a tablespoonful of sugar, and beat to a stiff froth ; a little cold water may be added if liked. White of Egg. — Stir the white of an egg into a glass of cold water, or water as warm as it can be without coagulating the egg, and serve. White of Egg and MUk. — The white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth and stirred into a glass of milk, forms a nourishing food for persons of weak digestion. REFRESHING DRINKS AND DELICACIES FOR THE SICK. In many fevers and acute diseases, but little food is re- quired, and that of a character which merely appeases hunger and quenches thirst, without stimulation and without afford- ing much nourishment. 448 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Preparations from sago, tapioca, and other farinaceous sub- stances are sometimes serviceable for this purpose. Oranges, grapes, and other perfectly ripened and juicy fruits are also most excellent. They are nature's own delicacies, and serve both for food and drink. They should not, however, be kept in the sick room, but preserved in some cool place, and served when needed, as fresh and in as dainty a manner as possible. Like all food provided for the sick, they should be arranged to please the eye as well as the palate. The capricious appetite of an invalid will often refuse luscious fruit from the hand of a nurse, which would have been gladly accepted had it been served on dainty china, with a clean napkin and silver. The juice of the various small fruits and berries forms a basis from which may be made many refreshing drinks espe- cially acceptable to the dry, parched mouth of a sick person. Fruit juices can be prepared with but little trouble. For directions see page 209. Beverages from fruit juices are prepared by using a small quantity of the juice, and sufficient cold water to dilute it to the taste. If it is desirable to use such a drink for a sick per- son in some household where fruit juices have not been put up for the purpose, the juice may be obtained from a can of strawberries, raspberries, or other small fruit, by turning the whole into a coarse cloth and straining off the juice ; or a tablespoonful of currant or other jelly may be dissolved in a tumbler of warm water, and allowed to cool. Either will make a good substitute for the prepared fruit juice, though the flavor will be less delicate. The hot beverages and many of the cold ones given in the chapter on Beverages will be found service- able for the sick, as will also the following additional ones : — RECIPES. Acorn Coffee. — Select plump, round, sweet acorns. Shell, and brown in an oven ; then grind in a coffee-mill, and use as ordinary coffee. Almond Milk. — Blanch a quarter of a pound of shelled almonds by pouring over them a quart of boiling water, and when the skins soften, rub? bing them off with a coarse towel. Pound the almonds in a mortar, a few at a time, adding a few drops of rose water occasionally, to prevent theic FOOD POR THE SICK. 449 oiling. About one tablespoonful in all will be sufficient. When finely pounded, mix the almonds with a pint of water, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a little piece of lemon rind. Place the whole over the fire to simmer for a little time. Strain, if preferred, and serve cold. Apple BeTcrage. — Pare and slice very thin a juicy tart apple into a china bowl. Cover with boiling water, put a saucer over the bowl, and allow the water to get cold. Strain and drink. Crab apples may be used in the same way. Apple Beverage No. 2. — Bake two large, sour apples, and when tender, sprinkle a tablespoonful of sugar over them, and return to the oven until the sugar is slightly browned. Break and mash the apples with a silver spoon, pour over them a pint of boiling water ; cover and let stand until cold ; then strain and serve. Apple Toast Water. — Break a slice of zwieback into small pieces, and mix with them two or three well-baked tart apples. Pour over all a quart of boiling water, cover, and let stand until cold, stirring occasionally. When cold, strain, add sugar to sweeten if desired, and serve. Baked Milk. — Put a quart of new milk in a stone jar, tie a white paper over it, and let it stand in a moderately heated oven eight or ten hours It becomes of a creamy consistency. Barley Lemonade. — Put a half cup of pearl barley into a quart of cola water, and simmer gently until the water has become mucilaginous, and quite thick. This will take from an hour to an hour and a half. Tne barley will absorb most of the water, but the quantity given should make a teacupful of good, thick barley water. Add to this two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice and a tablespoonful of sugar. Let it get cold before serving. By returning the barley to the stewpan with another quai't of cold water, and simmering for an hour or an hour and a half longer, a second cup of barley water may be obtained, almost as good as the first. Barley and Fruit Drink. — Prepare a barley water as above, and add to each cupful a tablespoonful or two of cranberry, grape, raspberry, or any tart fruit syrup. The pure juice sweetened will answer just as well ; or a little fruit jelly may be dissolved and added. Barley Milk. — Wash two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley in cold water until the water is clear. Put it to cook in a double boiler, with a quart of milk, and boil till the milk is reduced to a pint. Strain off the milk, and sweeten if desired. Cranberry Drink. — Mash carefully one quart of selected, ripe cran- berries thoroughly in an earthen dish, and pour one quart of boiling water over them. Let the mixture stand until cold, str-»in off the water, and sweeten to taste. Barberries thus prepared also make a nice drink. 450 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Currantade. — Mash thoroughly a pint of ripe, red currants, and one half the quantity of red raspberries ; add sugar to sweeten and two quarts of cold water. Stir, strain, cool on ice, and serve. Crust Coffee. — Brown slices of Graham bread in a slow oven until very dark in color. Break in pieces and roll fine with a rolling pin. A quantity of this material may be prepared at one time and stored in glass fruit cans for use. When needed, pour a cupful of actively boiling water over a dessertspoonful of the prepared crumbs, let it steep for a few moments, then strain and serve. Egg: Cream. — Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, add one table- spoonful of white sugar, then beat again. Next add the yolk, and beat ; then a tablespoonful of milk, one of cold water, and one of any fruit juice desired. Egg Cream No. 2. — Prepare as above, using two tablespoonfuls of water instead of one of water and one of milk, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice in place of other fruit juice. Egg Cream No. 3. -Beat the yolk of a freshly laid egg with a table- spoonful of sugar until it is light and creamy ; add to this, one half cup of hot milk and stir in lightly the stiffly beaten white of the egg. Serve at once. Egg Lemonade. — Beat the white of an egg to a stiff froth, then mix with it the juice of a small lemon, and one tablespoonful of sugar. Add a half pint of cold water. Or, beat together with an egg beater a table- spoonful of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of sugar, the white of an egg and a cup of cold water, until thoroughly mingled, then serve at once. Flaxseed Tea. — Take an ounce of whole flaxseed, half an ounce of crushed licorice root, an ounce of refined sugar, and four tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Pour a quart of boiling water over them ; keep near the fire for four hours, and then strain off the liquid. The flaxseed should not be crushed, as the mucilage is in the outer part of the kernel, and if bruised, the boiling water will extract the oil of the seed, and render the decoction nauseous. Make fresh daily. Gum Arabic Water. — Pour a pint of boiling water over an ounce of clean gum arable. When dissolved, add the juice of one lemon and a tea- spoonful of sugar, and strain. Hot Water. — Put good, fresh water into a perfectly clean granite-ware kettle, already warmed ; let it come to a boil very quickly, and use at once. Do not leave it to simmer until it has become insipid through the loss of the air which it contains. Hot Lemonade. — Put in a glass a thin slice of lemon and the juice of half a small lemon, being careful to remove all seeds ; mix with it one dessertspoonful of white sugar, and fill the glass with boiling water. Or, remove the peel of a lemon in very thin parings, turn one pint of boiling FOOD FOR THE SICK. 451 water over them, letting it stand for a few moments covered. Remove the peel, add the juice of a lemon and one tablespoonful of sugar, and serve. Irish Jtoss Lemonade. — Soak one fourth of a cup of Irish moss in cold water until it begins to soften ; then work it free from sand and tiny shells li>ely to be on it, and thoroughly wash. Put it in a granite-ware basin, and pour over it two cups of boiling water. Leave on the back of the range where it will keep hot, but not boil, for half an hour ; strain, add the juice of one lemon, and sugar to taste. Drink hot or cold, as preferred. Orangeade. — Rub lightly two ounces of lump sugar on the rind of two nice, fresh oranges, to extract the flavor ; put this sugar into a pitcher, to which add the juice expressed from the oranges, and that from one lemon. Pour over all one pint of cold water, stir thoroughly, and serve. Plain Lemonade. — For one glass of lemonade squeeze the juice of half a small lemon into the glass ; carefully remove all seeds and particles. Add a dessertspoonful of sugar, and fill the glass with cold water. Slippery Elm Tea. — Pour boiling water over bits of slippery elm bark or slippery elm powder, cool, and strain. If desired, a little lemon juice and sugar may be added to flavor. Toast Water. — Toast a pint of whole-wheat or Graham bread crusts very brown, but do not burn. Cover with a pint of cold water. Let it stand an hour, strain, and use. Sugar and a little cream may be added if allowed. Tamarind Water. — Boil four ounces of tamarinds and the same of raisins slowly, in three quarts of water, for fifteen or twenty minutes, or until the water is reduced nearly one fourth ; strain while hot into a bowl with a small slice of lemon peel in it. Set away until cold before using. BREAD. For invalids who are able to partake of solid foods, the Break- fast Rolls, Whole-wheat Puffs, Beaten Biscuit, Crisps, and other unfermented breads, directions for the preparation of which are given in the chapter on Bread, will be found excellent. The various crackers, wafers, and invalid foods manufac- tured by the Sanitarium Food Co., Battle Creek, Mich., are also to be recommended. Zwieback, prepared as directed on page 289, will be found serviceable and wholesome to be used with liquid foods and gruels. It may be prepared so as to look especially tempting by cutting off the crust of the bread, and 452 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. cutting the slice into fancy shapes with a cooky cutter before toasting. In cases where their use is allowable, many of the various toasts given under the head of Breakfast Dishes will be relished. RECIPES. Wheat Loaf.*— Make a batter from one quart of lukewarm water, one- half teaspoonful of salt, and sufficient white flour to make it the right con- sistency. Beat vigorously, and let it stand overnight. Add to the light batter two tablespoonfuls of cocoanut cream or olive oil, and enough flour to make a dough that can be kneaded. The flour should be a mixture of three-fourths coarse wheat flour and one-fourth white flour. Knead one hour ; set to rise in tin, and when light, bake in an oiled tin three hours. Hoecake. — Brown together in the oven one cupful of commeal, two tablespoonfuls of flour, one teaspoonful of sugar, and one-third teaspoonful of salt. Add one and one-half cupfuls of hot milk and when cool, the beaten yolks of two eggs ; lastly, fold in the beaten whites, and bake for twenty minutes on hot tins. Dialbetic Biscnit. — Make a stiff dough of Graham or entire-wheat flour and water. Knead thoroughly, and let it stand three hours ; then place on a sieve under a faucet, turn a stream of water over the dough, and wash out the starch, kneading and working with the hands so that all portions of the dough will be equally washed. When the starch has been all washed out, as will be indicated by the water running off clear, the dough will be a rubber-like, glutinous mass. It may then be cut into long strips, and these divided into equal-sized pieces or cubes. Place the pieces on shallow baking pans in a rather hot oven, which, after a short time, should be allowed to cool to moderate heat, and bake for two hours, when they should be of a dark, rich brown color and light and crisp throughout. If tough, they need rebaking. If the oven is too hot, the pieces will puff up, becoming mere hollow shells ; if not suffi- ciently hot, they will not rise properly. Diabetic Biscuit No. 2. — Prepare a dough and wash out the starch as in the preceding. Add coarse middlings so that the dough can be rolled into thin cakes, and bake. Gluten Meal Gems. — Beat together one half cup of ice water, one half cup of thick, sweet cream, and one egg ; then add one cup and a table- spoonful of the gluten meal prepared by the Sanitarium Food Co. Turn into slightly heated gem irons, and bake in a moderately hot oven from one half to three fourths of an hour. Almond Meal Gems. — Add to the well-beaten whites of two eggs one teaspoonful of lemon juice and ten scant tablespoonfuls of almond meal. Beat thoroughly together, drop into slightly heated gem irons, and bake ten or fifteen minutes. - —- ~ - rHAT to get for the family meals is frequently a most perplexing problem, especially when one re- members the many important points that should enter into the arrangement of the daily bill of fare. A well-arranged menu should be composed of articles which supply the requisite amount of food elements for proper nutri- tion, palatably prepared. These should be adapted to the season and also to the family purse. There should be an agreeable and pleasing change from day to day, with never too great variety at one meal, and no incongruous association of foods that do not harmonize, upon the same bill of fare. The amount of time and strength' available for the prepara- tion of the meal must also receive consideration. The prob- lem would be easier of solution could one select her menu wholly from fresh material each time ; but in most households the odds and ends and "left-over" foods must be utilized, and if possible compounded into dishes that will not have the savor of yesterday's breakfast or dinner. The making of a bill of fare offers opportunity for thought and study under all circumstances ; but it is often particularly (453) 454 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. difficult for the housewife long accustomed to the use of foods of a different character, to make up a menu of hygienic dishes properly adapted to all requirements. For such of our readers as need aid in this direction, we give in this chapter a number of bills of fare adapted to different seasons of the year, which we trust may be found helpfully suggestive of good hygienic living. A lesser variety may be used, and indeed is desirable if each person were to partake of the whole bill of fare; but in most families, tastes and individual preferences differ so greatly that some choice of articles is demanded to suit all. Only two meals are provided for. A third meal, if desired, whether it be luncheon or supper, should, for health's sake, be so simple in character that we have not deemed it necessary to give bills of fare. In arranging for the daily meals, the housewife will find it a great saving of vexation and trouble to make out menus for several days or a week ahead, at one time, rather than from day to day or from meal to meal. She can then plan her work and her resources so as the more nearly to make ' ' both ends meet," and can provide a more varied fare, while if changes are needed, they can be easily made by substituting one article for another, as circumstances demand. When planning the menus, she should bear in mind that a proportion of all the digestive food elements is absolutely essen- tial for the growth and repair of the living animal, and provide such foods as may be combined to furnish the requisite amount of each, since no single food in nature contains all the elements necessary for the healthy maintenance of the body and in just the right proportion. Hence the need of combining different food substances in such a manner that the deficiency of one food will be complemented by the surplus in another. Such a combination will constitute a well-balanced bill of fare. In arranging her menus the housewife will find it well to select first the breads and grain products to be used, since being among the most nutritious of all foods, they may well form the THE DAlLV MENU. 455 chief and staple food, around which all other articles upon the bill of fare are grouped. If the grain food chosen be rice, white bread, or one largely composed of starch, the remainder of the menu should include some foods rich in nitrogenous elements, such as nuts, macaroni, whole-wheat or Graham breads, pro- tose, the legumes, eggs, etc. If the choice of grain food be one containing a high percentage of nitrogenous material, less of this element will be required in the accompanying foods. As an aid in determining the nutritive value of any given food sub- stance, the following table, presenting the results of the chem- ical analysis of the more common articles used as food, which we have compiled from the most recent scientific authorities, will be found helpful : — TABLE SHOWING THE NUTRITIVE VALUES OF COMMON FOOD SUBSTANCES. FOOD SUBSTANCES. Gkains. Wheat, Poland Mich. White... ■■ Diehle . Japanese Rye, Winter German Barley So. Russian. . .. Oits. Corn, Flint Dent Sweet Rice Millet Buckwheat Irish Moss Flouh. Graham. ... Wheat Rye Barley Oat Corn Buckwheat . Bean Pea Banana Arrowroot... Breads. Barley Whole Wheat o c u .3S 21.5 ij 6 13.8 16.5 II. 14. 10 5 12 7 10.7 10.2 9-4 11.4 6.7 10.5 10. 22. 61.9 72.2 65.1 74.6 78. 66.7 70.9 58.3 68.5 68.5 62.7 73.5 68.2 71.8 S6-3 69.9 75-4 697 71.2 67.2 69.5 74-3 59-4 57-2 77-9 82. 64.4 I 60. I SI a = oc/3 21 17.9 1.7 2.2 2.9 ■5 2.5 1-7 2.9 o.t; £2 2.9 6.2 5-2 4- 6.9 5-3 6.5 5.5 ft. I 71 7.8 6.1 II. 8 6.9 7-3 2.6 6.1 6.8 6.1 6.3 4-9 75 8S 2.6 2-3 27- 82. 3 . 86.8 85-5 87.8 84.7 89.8 92. 82.3 86. 80 I 84.9 84.4 83.7 86.9 85.7 85.6 81.1 85. 1 88.3 84.7 84.7 91.4 84.3 83.8 88. 87.3 83.5 82. 83.? 8... 1 Chiefly sugar and starch. 456 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. FOOD SUBSTANCES. White Rye Swedish Speise Brod. , Zwieback, White Rye Macaroni Manna Fresh Fruits. Apple Apricot Blackberry Banana Cherry Cranberry Currant Grape Gooseberry Pear Prune Plum Peach Raspberry Strawberry Whortleberry Dried Fruits. Prune Pear Apple Cherry Raisin Fig Date Nuts. Chestnut Walnut Hazelnut Sweet Almond Peanut.... Cocoanut Syrup Honey Vegetables. Carrot Winter Cabbage Red Cabbage White " Spinach Celery Head Lettuce. Potato White Turnip Beet Sugar Beet Parsnip Sweet Potato Cucumber Asparagus Cauliflower Melon Squash * Maniute. ^ ■i a u u V rt ji •s ■< in 45-1 S-3 46. 42-3 6 1 46.9 12. 10 72.3 13.3 8 s 73.3 II. ft 9 3 07.7 13.1 9 76.8 15.3 1-9 18. 1 84.8 .4 Si.= s 86.4 5 73- I 9 79.8 7 89.6 I 84.7 5 78. 2 ft 8'i.7 a 83.2 4 81.2 8 84. » 4 80. 7 8-i.7 4 87.6 X I 7S.4 8 29-3 2.3 .2 29-4 2 10.3 27.9 1 3 5. ft 49-8 2 32. 2 4 31.2 4 33. 9- 7.3 14.6 69. 7-2 15.8 13. 7 I 17-4 7.2 6.2 23.5 7.8 6.S 28.1 1.8 46.6 5. ft 8. 24.6 20.6 .8 86.8 1.2 80. 4. 90. 1.8 90. 1.9 88., 3.S 84.1 1.5 94.3 1.4 75. 2.2 92.. ■; I., 87. s 1-3 71. ft 2. 82. 1.2 71. 8 I. 95.2 1.2 93.7 1. 8 90.9 2.5 90.4 I. 9°-3 I - 2.3 2.3 3.1 1.8 3.6 7.2 4.6 4.1 10.2 1.5 6.4 14.3 7.1 8.2 6.2 3.6 4.5 6.3 5. 44-4 29.1 42.8 31.2 54.6 49.8 26.2 72.8 58. 12. 6 .4 1.2 3.2 '4 2.4 57-4 6a. 6 53. 46.2 35.9 3.6 5.6 13.4 6.5 14.3 7.5 3.8 9.2 10.4 4.2 2.6 4.3 II. 3- 9- ■7 7.2 25.3 1.4 2.3 3.4 4. 5.» 1.5 5.3 7- .3 5.9 6.3 4.6 3.6 3-5 4.4 5.4 4.3 6.1 7.4 2.3 12.3 3.4 4.6 3.2 6.5 13.9 2.9 8.2 12. 5 14. 5 IS. 12. 1 23.8 14.2 20,5 7-7 I. 9-7 6.1 6.2 25. 4 27.3 42.8 22,9 26.1 12.4 6.4 54.9 87. 35. » 83.7 86.9 74-6 «3.7 13-5 6.6 26.7 14.8 4.1 10.7 18.2 10.8 12.4 13.4 10.8 13-9 6.9 6g.2 63.7 67. 49.4 66.3 56.7 67. . 7 87.3 79.6 50.5 75.4 79.4 9.6 2.1 .1 fi.s 25.5 2. 1.6 6.5 6.1 11.7 18. 1 8.7 8.2 10.5 14.5 4.9 24.4 5.4 II. 5 16. S 10. 27.2 4. 5.3 8.2 8.S SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. 457 FOOD SUBSTANCES. Onion Pampkin Tomato Peas, ffreen, earden.... small African green shelled Beans, field French or Kidney. . white Lima Strine beans Lentils German Mile and Butter, Mothers' Milk Cows' " Cream Swedish Butter French " Cheese. Stilton Skimmed milk Buttermilk Milk o{ Cow Tree Meats. Lean Beef Lean Mutton Veal Pork Poultry White Fish Salmon Entire Eee White of Ege Yolk of Ege 86. 90.3 92.4 78.4 10.3 6.5 12.7 13-5 11. IS. 9. 88.7 12.3 II.7 8g.i 86. 66. 13.8 12.6 32. 88. 88. 58. g3 2 a Q) IS 3.2 aw < 1-7 I.I 1.6 6.4 14.6 23.4 21.7 25- 23.7 26.9 21,9 2.7 25.9 33. 26.2 19.3 18.3 16.5 9.8 21. 18. 1 16. 1 14. 20.4 16. 12. 52.6 57.8 57.7 48.8 55.6 48.8 60.6 5.5 53. 30.3 2.8 1-5 2.5 2.8 Milk Sug. 5.4 5.2 2.8 .6 .2 34-5 3.8 3.6 3-2 3-9 26.7 84.4 86.4 3.3 1.8 .7 35.2 3.6 4-9 15.8 48.9 3.8 2.9 5.5 10.5 30.7 .7 1.2 .8 1.9 6.4 3.3 3.2 8. 3.8 2.8 4. 1.2 3.9 13.6 poi' ■g «> i 3 oS x> o * £2 6.4 6. 2.8 3. 2.2 2.7 2.7 2. 2.4 1.9 2.8 2.5 2.1 1.2 2.2 II. 141. 86.6 1.4 1.4 1.2 ,18 .26 .95 4.9 .18 .16 .34 .75 1.9 13-3 8.5 6.8 19-7 83.3 90.2 84.1 78.5 85.1 82.2 87. 10. 1 83.8 74.7 14- 34. 86.2 87.4 68. 10.4 9.2 40.2 28. 28. 37. 61. 26. 22. 23. 26. 22. 48. BIUS OF FARE. BKJBAKFAST Fresh Fruit Toasted Com Flakes with Canned Grape Sance Zwieback Sticks Baked Bananas BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Granose Flakes with Stewed Applet Breakfast Rolls Prune Toast Zwieback Malted Nuts DINNER DINNER Tomato Soup with Vermidelli Mashed Potato Stewed Dried Corn Marbled Beans Granose Flakes with Cream or Nut Cream Whole Wheat Bread Zwieback Beaten Biscuit Prune Dessert Black Bean Soup with Lemon Potato Canned Green Peas Crisps Celery Zwieback Com PuSs Lemon Apples Nuttolen* 458 SCIEiN'CE rx THE IIITCHEN. BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Roasted Rice with Tomato Sauce Canned or Dried Peach Toast Browned Granose Biscuit Nuttolene Currant PufEs DINNER Split Pea Soup Baked Sweet Potato Mashed Parsnip Escalloped Tomato Granose Flakes Graham Bread Stewed Prunes Roasted Almonds BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Ceraline with Grape Sauce Macaroni Baked with Granola Baked Apples Zwieback Vegetable Oyster Soup Potato Stewed with Protose Canned Wax Beans Granose, Cream or Nut Cream Whole-Wheat Bread . Crisps Whole-Wheat PufEs with Stewed Fruit Stewed Apple Brown Betty BREAKFAST Apples Grains of Gold with Meltose Baked Sweet Apples Nut Sticks Whole-Wheat Bread Tomato Toast Fruit Juice Potatoes Boiled in Jackets with Gluten Dressing Squash Succotash Corn Puffs Stewed Grapes Zwieback Crisps Baked Sweet Apple Dessert BREAKFAST Fruit Graham Gems with Cocoanut Cream Apple Sandwich Macaroni with Tomato Whole-Wheat Wafers Malted Nuts DINNER , Plain Rice Soup Mashed Peas with Tomato Sauce Savory Lentils Browned Granose Biscuit Currant PufEs Nut Butter Stewed Dried Fruit BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Granuto with Almond Cream Banana Toast Corn Meal Mush Sliced and Browned, with Nut Butter Sticks Zwieback DINNER Pea and Tomata Soup Apple Macaroni Protose Roast with Gravy Baked Potato Graham Bread Zwieback Roasted Almonds Granose Fruit Dessert JNTaKELKD r.KANS. LAWX LUXCHEOX. Protose SaiKlwiches with Ripe Olives Nut Sticks (tied in bundles with ribbon) Marbled Beans with garnish of walnuts and sliees of lemon Wafers and Fruit Salad Individual Berry Shortcakes Fruit Coco Fruit Nectar Strawberry Shortcake. BILLS OF FARE. 459 BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Browned Granose Biscuit with Nuttolene Toasted Wheat Flakes with Baked Sweet Apples and Almond Cream Dried Apricot Toast Graham Bread Stewed Fruit DINNER Protose and Potato Hash Baked Beans Dry Granola with Cream or Nut Cream Whole-Wheat PufiEs Zwieback Nuts and Raisins BREAKFAST Bananas with Graham Crisps Fig Sauce on Toast Fruit Macaroni Corn Dodgers Zwieback Cream or Cocoanut Cream Lima Bean Soup Potato with Parsnip Asparagus Baked Barley Stewed or Canned Fruit Raisin Bread Zwieback Prune Pie, Granola Crust BREAKFAST Cherries Cocoanut Crisps Fresh Berry Toast Granose Flakes with Poached Egg or with Meltose Zwieback Nuttolene DINNER Asparagus Soup Stewed Potato Pease Patties with Tomato Sauce Zwieback Lettuce Salad Browned Granose Biscuit Cocoanut Sauce Fresh Berries Stewed Fruit Pudding BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Granola Raisin Mush Cherry Toast Graham Crusts Zwieback Nuttolene DINNER Plain Rice Soup Escalloped Potatoes Spinach Broiled Protose with Tomato Sauce Zwieback, Toasted Rolls Graham Bread Strawberries Pineapple Tapioca BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Toasted Granose Flakes with Cream or Nut Cream Canned Grape Toast Breakfast Rolls Poached Eggs DINNER Lentil and Tomato Soup Macaroni with Kornlet Potato Salad Asparagus with Green Peas Browned Granose Biscuit Strawberry Sandwich Stewed Fruit Nut or Cream Crisps 460 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. BREAKFAST Protose Hash Asparagfus on Toast Granose Flakes with Cream or Nut Cream Breakfast Rolls Graham Wafers BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Raspberry Granola Snowflake Toast Fruit Rolls Graham Crusts Roasted Almonds Fruit Soup Nut Sticks Mashed Split Peas Stewed Tomato Sunflower Mayonnaise Zwieback with Malted Nuts Fresh Berries Berry Tarts DINNER Tomato and Vermicelli Soup with Croutons New Potatoes Vegetable Roast with Gravy Beet Greens with Lemon Dressing Browned Granose Biscuit Whole-Wheat Bread Lettuce Salad Mixed Nuts BREAKFAST Sweet Plums Browned Granose Biscuit with Cocoanut Cream Lettuce with Protose Black Raspberry Sandwich DINNER Corn and Pea Soup Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce Stewed Summer Squash New Potatoes Baked Barley Whole-Wheat Bread Zwieback Stewed Berries BRfeAKFAST Melon Browned Rice with Black Raspberry Sauce Almond Cream Toast Graham Water Gems Blueberries Caramel-Cereal Green Corn Soup Savory Nut Loaf Baked Potato Brown Sauce Browned Wheat with Cream or Nut Cream Graham Bread Sliced Tomato Wheat Puffs Simple Sponge Cake Mixed Nuts BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Steamed Rice with Nut Cream Fresh Blueberry Toast Breakfast Rolls Malted Nuts Fruit Soup with Nut Sticks Savory Lentils Tomato Salad Corn Puffs Wafers Fresh Berries Granose Fruit Pie BILLS OF FARE. 461 BREAKFAST Browned Rice with Cream or Nut Cream Fresh Fruit Lentil Gravy Toast Breakfast Rolls with Nuttolene Sliced Tomato Wax or Shelled Bean Soup Escalloped Potato Baked Egg Plant Mashed Peas Granola Sticks Zwieback Peach Shortcake Blackberries BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Granuto with Almond Cream and Blackberries Eggs in Tomato Cases with Granose Flakes Fruit Sandwich Breakfast Zwieback with Malted Nuts BREAKFAST Melon Peach Granola Browned Corn Meal Biscuit Protose and Tomato Stew Zwieback with Malted Nuts Fruit Bread BREAKFAST Peaches with Fruit Wafers Pearled Wheat with Baked Sweet Apples and Cream or Nut Cream Grape Toast Breakfast Rolls Health Cocoa DINNER Corn Pur6e with Croutons Wafer Sandwiches Broiled Tomato Baked Potato Stuffed Protose Buns Sticks Fresh Blackberries Peaches DINNER Green Com Soup Shelled Beans Protosed Potato Lentil and Nut Loaf Currant Pufifs Browned Granose Biscuit Sliced Peaches DINNER Pease Pur6e Baked Potato or Browned Rice with Broiled Protose and Protose Gravy Baked Green Corn Sliced Tomato Whole-Wheat Bread Baked Quince Fresh Berries BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Fruit Granola Minced Protose on Toast Browned Granose Biscuit with Nuttolene No-Coffee DINNER Clear Tomato Soup with Nut Sticks Broiled Nuttolene with Green Peas Squash Fruit Salad Wafers with Fresh Berries Fruit Puffs Granose Biscuit 462 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. BREAKFAST Granose Flakes with Cream or Nut Cream Broiled Potato Corn Dodgers Stewed Tomato Zwieback Nut Butter BREAKFAST Grapes Hominy with Cream or Nut Cream Corn Dodgers Nuttolene a la Creme Baked Potato Toasted Whole-Wheat Wafers BREAKFAST Apples Boiled Rice Fig Toast Egg Sandwich Cocoanut Corn Bread BREAKFAST Fresh Fruit Toasted Corn Flakes with Cream or Nut Cream Dried Peach Toast Baked Apples Graham Wafers Zwieback Rolls Nuttolene BREAKFAST Apples with Cocoanut Crisps Corn Meal Mush Sliced and Browned Nuttolene Cutlets Boiled Chestnuts Fruit Toast DINNER Baked Peanuts Macaroni with Kornlet Fruit Sandwich Browned Rice with Tomato Sauce Whole- Wheat Bread Lemon Apple Sauce Toasted Wafers Fresh Fruit DINNER Tomato Soup Baked Sweet Potato with Roast Protose and Gravy Fresh Lima Beans Graham Bread Stewed Apples Nuts DINNER Fruit Soup Nut Sticks Baked Pignolias Browned Rice Tomato Sauce Bean Patties with Lemon Whole- Wheat Puffs Browned Granose Biscuit Fruit and Nut Pie Stewed Fruit DINNER Dried Lima Bean Soup Potato Snowballs Celery Broiled Protose Escalloped Vegetable Oysters Granola Raisin Mush Stewed Fruit Graham Bread Crisps Baked Sweet Apples Swiss Lentil Soup Parsnip with Potato Granose Flakes with Cream or Grape Juice Escalloped Tomato Beaten Biscuit Graham Bread Prune Whip Health Cocoa TABLE TOPICS. WATER. To the days of the aged it addeth length ; To the might of the strong it addeth strength ; It freshens the heart, it brightens the sight ; 'Tis like quaffing a goblet of morning light. — Sel. It is said that Worcester sauce was first introduced as a medicine, the original formula having been evolved by a noted physician to disguise the assafetida which it contains, for the benefit of a noble patient whose high living had impaired his digestion. The turnpike road to people's hearts I find Lies through their mouth, or I mistake mankind. — Dr. Wolcolt. A GOOD dinner sharpens wit, while it softens the heart. — Doran. Small cheer and great welcome. make a merry feast. — Shakespeare. The food on which the man who would be healthy should live must be selected so as to insure variety without excess. — Dr. Richardson. Hearty foods are those in which there is an abundance of potential energy. — Prof. Atwater. An Old-Fashioned Recipe for a Little Home Comfort.— Take of thought for self one part, two parts of thought for family ; equal parts of common sense and broad intelligence, a large modicum of the sense of fit- ness of things, a heaping measure of living above what your neighbors think of you, twice the quantity of keeping within your income, a sprinkling of what tends to refinement and aesthetic beauty, stirred thick with the true brand ol Christian principle, and set it to rise. — Sel. For all things have an equal right to live. Kill noxious creatures where 'tis sin to save ; 'Tis only just prerogative we have ; But nourish life with vegetable food. And shun the sacrilegious taste of blood. — Ovid. 463 APPENDIX ADDITIONAL RECIPES CULLED FROM THE SANITARIUM KITCHEN AND COOKING-SCHOOL SOUPS Protose Broth. — One-half pound protose; 2^ cups cold water; % bay leaf; y^ teaspoonful celery salt; J^ teaspoonful grated onion; ^ teaspoonful condensed tomato. Mince or chop the protose, add to it the other ingredients, cook over a very slow fire for two hours. Strain, and serve the clear liquid'. (Cooper.) Nut and Tomato Bisque Soup. — One-fourth cup nut butter; 1 cup to- mato ; 2 to 3 cups water. Rub the nut butter smooth in the tomato. Add) the water. Heat to boiling, and add salt to taste. Cream of Spinach Soup. — One cup cooked spinach ; 1 quart milk ; 2 cups cream; 3 tablespoonfuls flour. Put the spinach through a colander. Add the hot milk, cream, and flour moistened with a little cold water. Let it come to the boiling point a few minutes. Tomato and Celery Soup. — One cup chopped celery; 1 cup boiling water; 3 pints strained canned tomato; 2 teaspoons salt; lyj tablespoonfuls butter. Cook the celery in the boiling water. Add the strained tomato, butter, salt, and water sufficient to make two quarts of soup. (Cooper.) Nut and Bean Soup. — A bean soup which may be enjoyed by those who still have a taste for the flavor of a ham bone in soup, is made as follows : 154 cups dry lima beans; 1 small potato; 1 medium-sized onion; ^ cup nut butter ; Yi cup nut meal ; 2 teaspoonfuls salt. Wash the beans and put them to cook in cold water. Wash the potato with the skin on. Slice it and the onion thin, and add them to the beans. After the beans have been cooking one-half hour, add the nut butter and nut meal. When the beans are thoroughly cooked, rub the whole through a colander. Add water to make two quarts of soup. Salt, reheat, and serve. (Cornforth.) Clear Tomato Soup. — One quart strained stewed tomato; IJ^ table- spoonfuls butter; 3 teaspoonfuls sugar. Heat the tomato and sugar together, then add the butter. Cream of Lettuce Soup. — ^Lettuce, 6 oz. ; Yi cup cream; Yz cup milk; 1 teaspoonful salt. Steam lettuce until tender. Put through a colander. Add cream, milk, and salt. Heat and serve. [464] Rice CuooriirrEs Peas and Celeuv Salad APPENDIX. 465 Cream of Browned Onion Soup. — Four medium-sized onions; 1 cup milk; 1 cup cream; 1 cup water; 1 teaspoonful salt; 1 tablespoonful flour (slightly browned). Cook the onions in a small amount of water until per- fectly tender, then cook the liquid until it becomes thick and syrupy. Put through a colander. Add the liquids and thicken with the slightly browned flour. Add salt. Two teaspoonfuls caramel cooked with the onions im- proves the flavor. Fruit Soup. — Two cups peach juice; 1 cup cherry juice; 1 cup apple juice; V/i tablespoonful s sago; 2 tablespoonfuls sugar; 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice. Drain the juice from a quart can of peaches, and one cup of juice from a can of cherries, and a cup of fresh apple juice or the juice from the cooked apples. Add to these the sago, and cook till transparent and soft. Lastly add the lemon juice and sugar. The amount of sugar may be varied accord- ing to the sweetness of the juices. Serve hot or cold. (Kitchen.) Bouillon. — One cup bean broth; 1 cup peas broth; 1 cup tomato juice; ^ onion; j/i teaspoonful celery salt. Wash one cup each of white beans and dried green peas, and put each to cook in one quart of cold water. Cook slowly until about one cup of liquor remains. Drain and measure. Add the clear juice from tomatoes, the grated onion, and celery salt. Cook for a few minutes, and serve hot. (Cooper.) ENTREES Savory Roast. — Two cups lentil, bean, or peas puree ; 2 eggs ; yi cup granola; juice of medium-sized onion; 2 teaspoonfuls sage; 1 cup strained tomato ; 2 cups nut meal or finely chopped nuts ; '/^ cup browned flour ; 2 tea- spoonfuls celery salt; ^ cup cream; 1 teaspoonful salt. Cook the legumes (either lentils, peas, or beans) until quite tender and dry, then put through a colander, in this v/ay removing the hulls. Beat the eggs slightly and add the other ingredients in the order given. Then bake in a loaf in a hot oven twenty to thirty minutes or until nicely browned. Serve with Lentil Sauce. — One cup lentil, bean, or peas puree; % cup browned flour; 2 teaspoonfuls onion juice; 1 cup strained tomato; 1 teaspoonful' celery salt; 1 cup cream; 1 teaspoonful salt if desired. Prepare the lentils as above, put- ting them through a colander, then add the strained tomato, and put through a colander. Add the celery salt, onion juice, and salt. Put all to heat over the fire. Moisten the browned flour with a little cold water and stir until smooth, then add to the boiling liquids. Cook five minutes, then add the cream. Reheat and serve at once. (Cooper.) Panned Protose.— One-half pound protose; 1 tablespoonful butter; 1 cup strained tomato; J4 teaspoonful salt if desired. Slice the protose in one-half- inch slices and arrange in a frying pan. Cover with the strained tomato, add. 466 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. the salt and the butter, and let simmer over the fire for one-half hour oi more, until the tomato becomes quite thick. (Cooper.) Mock Veal Loaf. — One large cup of minced protose; 1 tablespoonful grated onion; 1 tablespoonful butter; 1 teaspoonful celery salt or minced celery; 5 rolled whole-wheat wafers; 1 egg; 1 cup hot cream; 1 teaspoonful salt. To the minced protose add the butter, grated onion, salt, celery salt, wafer crumbs, beaten egg, and lastly the hot cream. Stir all together and bake. Rice Croquettes. — One-half cup rice ; 2 cups water ; ;4 cup milk ; % cup flour ; 1 egg ; 1 tablespoonful grated onion ; 1 tablespoonful celery salt ; 2 table- spoonfuls butter ; 1 cup corn flakes. Heat the water to boiling, add the rice, and cook slowly in the inner portion of the double boiler for fifteen minutes, then place in the outer portion of the double boiler and finish cooking. When the rice is thoroughly softened and the liquid has been absorbed, add the onion, celery salt, and butter. Make a thick cream sauce by adding the flour braided with a little cold water to the hot milk. When cooked, remove from the fire and add the beaten egg. Into this stir the seasoned rice. When thor- oughly mixed, dip by spoonfuls into previously crushed corn flakes and shape into oblong cakes and bake in a hot oven until set. (Cooper.) Qrape Catsup. — One pound grapes; 54 cup sugar; yi cup lemon juice; J4 teaspoonful cinnamon. To the grapes add enough water to keep from burning. Let boil until soft enough to press through a colander. Add the rest of the ingredients to this pulp, and boil down to desired consistency. Brown Sauce. — Four tablespoonfuls nut meal; 1 teaspoonful nut but- ter; iy2 cups cereal coffee; 2J4 cups water; 2 tablespoonfuls flour; salt. Dissolve the nut butter and nut meal in the water, add the cereal coffee, heat to boiling in a double boiler, add the flour, which has been stirred smooth with a little cold water. Salt to taste, and allow it to cook fifteen minutes. (Cornforth.) Nut Patties. — One can protose; 1 can nuttolene; lemon juice and onion to flavor. Mash and mix together. Form into patties and bake. Protose Roast with Dressing. — Remove the protose whole from a pound can by opening can in both ends before attempting to remove. Split the protose lengthwise through the middle and place flat side downward in a small roasting pan. Over this pour the sauce made by using one and a half cups of strained tomatoes, one and a half cups of water, two tablespoon- fuls of butter, one bay leaf broken in pieces. Put into the oven, and baste protose every half hour with this sauce, cooking about two hours, or until the sauce is quite well evaporated. Remove and place upon platter and serve with the following dressing : 2 cups sliced vegetable oysters ; ^ cup sterilized butter ; 2 tablespoonfuls grated onion ; 1 teaspoonful salt ; 1 teaspoonful sage ; 2 cups stale bread crumbs. Cook vegetable oysters in boiling salted water, using enough water to cover well. Let them cook down until about one- fourth cup of liquid remains, then add butter, grated onion, salt, and lastly Potato Ci'tlets AspAKA<;i's Canai'ES Pkotose Roast with Dressinc; APPENDIX. 467 fold in lightly the bread crumbs. Turn into a pan and bake in a moderate oven. (Cooper.) Browned Cream Gravy. — Two small slices of protose; ]^ cup flour; lyi cups cream; 1 cup milk. Brown the protose and mix with the flour. Add the heated milk and cream, stirring meanwhile, and cook in double boiler fifteen or thirty minutes. Spanish Eggs. — Six eggs ; ^ cup strained tomato ; 1 tablespoonful lemon juice; 2 doz. ripe olives (cut into rings) ; 1 small onion, grated; 1 tea- spoonful salt; 1 teaspoonful celery salt. Beat the eggs slightly, add the re- maining ingredients, and cook in a double boiler. Stir constantly until slightly thickened. Serve hot. (Cooper.) Scalloped Eggs. — Yolks of 6 hard-boiled eggs ; l4 cup chopped ripe olives; 1 cup cream sauce; 1 cup bread crumbs. Butter a baking dish, place in the bottom one-fourth of crumbs, three egg yolks thinly sliced, one-half of the chopped olives, one-half of the cream sauce made as above, omitting the tomato, and using one cup rich milk instead of two-thirds cup, then add one-half cup bread crumbs, repeat the layer, finishing with a thin sprinkle of bread crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. (Emmons.) VEGETABLES Potato Cutlets. — ^Two cups mashed potato ; 2 teaspoonfuls grated onion ; 1 teaspoonful salt; J4 teaspoonful mace; }4 cup farina; 5^ cup cream; J4 cup milk; 1 tablespoonful butter. Heat the cream to boiling, add the farina moistened in the cold milk, cook in a double boiler three-fourths of an hour. To the hot mashed potato add the salt, onion, mace, butter, and farina, form in cutlets, roll in toasted bread crumbs, beaten egg, crumbs again, bake to a nice brown and serve with the following gravy : One-half cup thin cream; yi teaspoonful salt; J/^ cup water in which the potatoes were boiled; 1 tablespoonful flour; 1 tablespoonful browned flour; 1 tablespoonful butter. Heat cream and potato water to boiling; rub the butter, flour, and salt together; stir in the hot cream and potato water; cook five minutes. (Emmons). Macaroni Cutlets. — One and one-third cups egg macaroni (see p. 107) ; 1J4 cups corn flakes ; J4 cup nut meal. To the macaroni add the nut meal, shape with a spatula, cover with the corn flakes. Bake until nicely browned. Cream of Tomato Sauce. — ^Two-thirds cup rich milk; yi cup strained tomato; 2 tablespoonfuls flour; ^ teaspoonful salt. Heat the milk to boil- ing, stir in flour previously rubbed smooth in a little cold milk; when cooked, add the hot strained tomato and salt. (Cooper.) A8parag;us Canap£s. — Prepare the canapes by cutting bread, two or 468 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. three days old, into two-and-one-half-inch cubes. Remove a two-inch cube from one side, forming a square receptacle. Toast in a slow oven to a golden brown. Place in the canape six or eight asparagus tips, fill the cavity with Cream of Tomato Sauce, and serve. Corn Roast. — Two eggs; 54 cup milk; J4 cup cream; 1J4 cup granola or 1 cup toasted bread crumbs ; 1 cup canned or fresh corft ; 1 teaspoon salt ; Vi teaspoonful grated onion. Mix ingredients in the order given; let stand twenty to thirty minutes. Bake in an oiled bread pan thirty to forty minutes. Creamed Baked Potatoes. — Twelve medium-sized potatoes; Yz cup cream; Yi cup milk; Y^ teaspoonful salt. Pare the potatoes and place in the bottom of a pan and cover with the milk and cream. Add the salt. Cover the pan and place in the oven. Keep covered until the potatoes are almost done, then remove the cover and allow the milk and cream to cook down until they are somewhat thick. Creamed Spinach. — Two thirds cup spinach (canned or cooked) ; Ys cup cream; 1 teaspoonful flour; J^ teaspoonful salt. Heat the spinach and mix with it a cream sauce made of the cream, salt, and flour. Bean Croquettes. — Two cups stewed beans ; 3 cups corn flakes ; 2 table- spoonfuls butter; 3 tablespoonfuls strained tomato; V/i teaspoonfuls salt if desired. Soak one cup of beans in cold water overnight or for several hours. Then put to cook in three or four pints of water and let cook until tender. When cooked down quite dry, add the butter, tomato, and salt if desired. Lastly fold in the corn flakes. Form into croquettes. When shaped, place in the hot oven and bake until nicely browned. (Cooper.) Lyonnaise Potatoes. — Three medium-si^ed boiled potatoes ; 1 small onion; 2 sprigs of parsley; 2 tablespoonfuls butter; ^ tablespoonful salt. Put the butter, chopped parsley, and onion, grated, into a double boiler. When the butter is melted, slice and add the potatoes and also the salt. When thoroughly heated throughout, serve. (Lambert.) Baked Cabbage k la Russe. — One large head of cabbage; 2J^ cups of toasted bread crumbs; J4 cup of sterilized butter; 1 teaspoonful of salt; 4 cups of milk (^ cream if obtainable). Cut off stem; hollow out center of cabbage from stem end, in this way removing the pulp. Cut away the cab- bage adhering to the core and chop cabbage very finely. Mix with this one and a half cups of the bread crumbs, made by rolling on a moulding board zwieback or thoroughly dried and toasted bread, also the butter and salt, and fill center with this. Place stuffed cabbage in crock which can be tightly sealed. Surround the cabbage with the remainder of the bread crumbs and the milk, and cover. Place in oven and bake slowly for two hours or more. When tender and the milk is quite largely evaporated, remove and serve. (Cooper.) Scalloped Corn.— One- fourth cup of sterilized butter; Va, cup of flour; Yi teaspoonful of salt; V/i cups of milk; 1 scant tablespoonful of sugar; 1 can of corn ; J4 cup of cracker crumbs ; 54 cup of cream, Rub butter, flour. APPENDIX. 469 and salt together, heat milk to scalding, and pour slowly over the flour, stir- ring meanwhile; then place over fire and let come to boiling point; then stir in sugar and corn, from which the water has been drained. Pour all into a baking dish, and over the top spread evenly the cracker crumbs, moistened with the cream. Set in oven and bake fifteen to twenty minutes. i(Coopeir.) SANDWICHES AND TOAST Lettuce Sandwich. — Thinly sliced bread; butter; crisp lettuce leaves; mayonnaise dressing. Butter the bread and spread between each two slices cooked mayonnaise dressing (see p. 414) and a crisp lettuce leaf. Cut into two pieces and serve. French Apple Toast. — One-half cup of milk; 1 egg; 4 slices of bread; J4 cup of apple sauce. Beat the egg slightly and add the milk. Into this dip for a moment the bread, one slice at a time, and place on buttered tins in a hot oven, and bake to a nice golden brown. Remove from the oven and place on each slice a spoonful of apple sauce. This makes a delightful break- fast dish. (Cooper.) Cucumber Sandwich. — Pare three or four medium-sized cucumbers. Mix with them one tablespoonful of grated onion and sufficient mayonnaise to cover the cucumbers well. Spread this between buttered bread, thinly sliced. This makes a very delicious luncheon sandwich. Thinly sliced toma- toes may be used instead of cucumbers. (Cooper.) Baked Tomato on Toast. — Six slices of whole-wheat bread; 6 thick slices of tomato; 1 tablespoonful butter; J4 cup milk; salt. Moisten the toasted bread with the milk. Slice the tomatoes and bake on oiled tin. Be- fore placing in the oven, sprinkle with salt and pour over a little mellted but- ter. When baked, place a slice on each slice of bread. (Aldrich.) Corn Pone. — One pint yellow corn-meal; lj4 cups boiling water (if white corn-meal is used, % cup boiling water is sufficient); % cup butter; 1 teaspoonful salt; 2 teaspoonfuls sugar. Mix the salt, sugar, corn-meal, and butter together and pour over it the boiling water. Let stand a few minutes and shape slightly with the hand into four pones. Bake in a quick oven until of a nice golden brown. Cheese Straws. — One cup pastry flour; ?4 cup nut meal; yi teaspoonful salt; yi teaspoonful sugar; cream to moisten; yi cup cottage cheese. Mix the flour, nut meal, salt, and sugar. Moisten with sufficient cream to make a dough. Roll out, sprinkle a little of the cheese on the dough, fold togethdr, and roll out again. Do this till the cheese is all used. Roll out as thin as a knife blade, cut in one-eighth-inch strips, and bake in a quick oven. (Cornforth.)) 470 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Cottage Cheese Sandwich.— Thinly sliced bread ; ^ cup cottage cheese ; 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter; 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. Butter the bread. Mix the cottage cheese with melted butter and lemon juice, adding a little salt if desired. Spread this between the buttered bread, thinly sliced. Arrange neatly on the plate for serving. (Cooper.) Spinach on Toast. — One full cup cooked spinach; 1 tablespoonful but- ter; 54 teaspoonful salt; 6 slices toasted bread; J4 cup cream and milk (y^ cream) ; 2 hard-boiled eggs. Heat the spinach, season with salt and butter. Toast the bread and moisten in milk and cream. Place the spinach on the toast and garnish with the sliced hard-boiled egg. (Aldrich.) SALADS Cucumber Jelly Salad. — Seven-eighths cup cucumber pulp; J^ cup lemon juice; yi cup cooked vegetable gelatin. Reduce the cucumbers to a pulp by grating. Add the lemon juice and the cooked vegetable gelatin pre- pared by boiling one-eighth box vegetable gelatin in one-half cup of water. Turn at once into molds previously wet with cold water. Serve upon lettuce leaf. (Lambert.) Tomato Jelly Salad. — Three cups strained stewed tomato; 3 bay leaves; 1 small onion grated or 1 tablespoonful onion juice; 1 teaspoonful celery salt; % cup lemon juice; ?4 cup cooked vegetable gelatin. Cook the tomato with the seasonings until reduced one-half. Then add the cooked vegetable gelatin prepared by boiling one-eighth ounce vegetable gelatin in one-half cup of water. Turn into molds previously wet with cold water. Serve upon lettuce leaf. (Cooper.) Fruit Salad. — One cup oranges, diced; 1 cup apples, diced; 1 cup ba- nanas, diced; %. cup canned cherries. Serve with golden salad dressing. Golden Salad Dressing. — One-half cup pineapple, orange, or apple juice; yi cup lemon juice; 4 eggs; % cup sugar. Beat the eggs, add the sugar and fruit juices. Cook in double boiler until thickened, stirring con- stantly. Date and Apple Salad. — Two cups diced apples; 1 cup chopped dates. Serve with golden salad dressing. Date and Walnut Salad. — Two cups dates seeded and cut into pieces; 1 cup walnut meats, broken. Serve with golden salad dressing. French Dressing. — One tablespoonful lemon juice; 3 tablespoonfuls olive oil; salt, and a few drops onion juice if desired. To the lemon juice add the salt and onion juice, stir in the oil. (Cooper.) Vegetable Oyster Salad. — Wash and scrape one bunch of vegetable oysters, and as you clean them, drop them into water to which one-half cup of lemon juice and one tablespoonful of flour have been added. To one quart of boiling water add one-half cup of lemon juice and one-half table- spoonful of flour stirred smooth with cold water; then put in the oysters APPENMX. 471 and cook them until they are tender. When done, drain, and when cold, cut into two-inch strips and pour a mayonnaise over them. A boiled mayonnaise may be made as follows : 54 cup lemon juice, % cup olive oil, J4 cup water, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful sugar, J^ teaspoonful salt, ^ teaspoonful celery salt. Mix all together in the inner cup of a double boiler. Bring to a boil slowly, stirring occasionally. When boiling, stir constantly until of the consistency of thick cream, then remove from the stove and set the dish in cold water. Serve the salad on a lettuce leaf on one side of a small plate, and place a toasted granose biscuit on the other side. (Cornforth.) Cream Chicken Salad {Vegetarian Style).— Cut nuttolene in one- fourth-inch dice, lay it on an oiled pan, and toast in the oven till lightly browned. Add to it an equal quantity of diced celery, and serve over it the following : Cream Salad Dressing. — One cup fresh sweet cream; 1 tablespoonful flour; 2 egg whites; 3 tablespoonfuls lemon juice; 2 tablespoonfuls olive oil; 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar; % teaspoonful salt; yi teaspoonful celery salt. Stir the flour smooth with some of the cream. Heat the remainder to boiling and stir in the flour. Cook for a minute or two. Add the sugar, and take from the fire. When it has cooled a little, beat in the whipped whites of the eggs. Cool, then beat in the oil, salt, celery salt, and lemon juice, and pour it over the mixed nuttolene and celery. (Cornforth.) Royal Salad. — Two cups diced nuttolene; 3 hard-boiled egg yolks; }4 cup chopped celery; yi cup cooked mayonnaise (see p. 414). Brown the nutto- lene, add the celery and egg yolks pressed through a colander, and the dress- ing. String Bean Salad. — One can French beans; yi cup French dressing; yi teaspoonful onion juice. Drain the water from the beans. Pour over it the French dressing and onion juice. French Salad. — Two cups cooked potatoes ; 1 tablespoonful cucumber chopped fine; 1 tablespoonful chopped radishes; 2 tablespoonfuls chopped celery; yi tablespoonful onion juice; marianate with mayonnaise. Peas and Celery Salad. — One can peas; lyi cups chopped celery; 1 onion; 1 gcant cup cooked mayonnaise; yi teaspoonful salt. Drain the juice from one can of peas. Add to the peas the grated onion, salt, and chopped celery. Mix all with the mayonnaise. (Cooper.) Banana and Walnut Salad. — One-half banana; 1 teaspoonful chopped English walnuts; 1 level teaspoonful mayonnaise dressing (see page 414). Slice the banana lengthwise, pour over it the mayonnaise, and on top of this sprinkle the chopped walnuts. Fig Puffs. — Two cups milk ; 2 eggs ; 3 cups of flour (about) ; 1 tablespoon- ful sugar; yi teaspoonful salt; yi cup figs, washed and cut in small dice. Beat together the milk, eggs, sugar, and salt. Then add sufficient flour to make a 472 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. batter stiff enough to pile up slightly in the dish as it flows from the batter- whip, but not too stiff to flow freely. Beat five minutes, then fold in the figs, which have been dredged with flour, and bake at once in heated gem-irons. (Cornforth.) DESSERTS Cocoanut Macaroons. — Three egg whites; 1 cup powdered sugar; y% pound shredded cocoanut. Beat the egg whites very stiff, beat in the pow- dered sugar a little at a time^ stir in the cocoanut, form into balls the size of a walnut, and bake in a cool oven till slightly browned. (Cornforth.) Steamed Fruit Pudding. — This dehcious pudding differs from the usual Christmas pudding in that it is not made rich and indigestible by the presence of a large amount of free fat of some kind. It is simply a combinar< tion of fruits and grains with a little sugar and egg: Three cups quartered and cored apples ; 54 pound raisins ; J4 pound figs ; 1 cup seeded dates ; 2 tablespoonfuls maple syrup ; ^ cup hot water ; ^ cup sugar; V/i cups toasted bread crumbs; 1 teaspoonful vanilla; 2 eggs. Chop the fruit together, then add the other ingredients, adding the well-beaten eggs last. Steam four hours. Serve with raspberry sauce. Raspberry Sauce. — One cup raspberry juice; Yi cup peach juice; J4 cup pineapple juice; sugar; 1 tablespoonful corn-starch. Mix the juices, sweeten to taste, heat to boiling, and thicken with the corn-starch stirred smooth with a little cold water. (Cornforth.) Date Sauce for Puddings. — Seed the dates, and stew them in just enough water to cover them, till they are soft enough to rub through a col- ander. After they are put through the colander, add fruit juice (cherry juice is very nice) to thin them to the proper consistency. Heat the sauce to boiling, and let it cook a minute or two, and it is ready to serve. This is very nice with bread pudding or with cranberry shortcake. (Cornforth.) Hard Sauce.— One-half pound butter; J4 cup powdered sugar; lemon and vanlla flavoring. Cream the butter and the powdered sugar slowly, stirring while adding it, then add the flavoring. Put on ice to chill. (Cooper.) Hard Sauce. — One-third cup sugar; 2 egg whites. Add to the sugar just enough water to dissolve it, and boil it till it hairs. Have the egg whites beaten stiff, and pour the hot syrup slowly over them, beating allthe while till the sauce is cold. (Cornforth.) Lemon Filling for Cake.— One cup water; ^ cup lemon juice; 2 tablespoonfuls butter; 3 tablespoonfuls corn-starch; grated rind of 1 lemon; 2 egg yolks; Vi cup sugar. Heat the water, sugar, lemon rind to boiling. Add the melted butter and corn-starch, moistened with a little cold water. Add the lemon juice. Cook five to ten minutes. Pumpkin Pie. — A pumpkin pie which needs no spices to add to its toothsomeness may be made as follows : 1 quart milk ; 1 pint sifted pumpkin ; V/t cups dates (measured after being seeded and ground very fine with a APPENDIX. 473 food chopper) ; J^ cup sugar; 1 tablespoonful brown flour; Ij^ tablespoonfuls nut butter; 1 egg; ^4 teaspoonful salt. Heat the milk to boiling. Mix the remaining ingredients, and add to them the boiling milk. Pour into two crusts, and bake slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Date Cream Pie^ — Line a pie tin with nut-meal crust, building up a scalloped edge, and bake in it a filling made as follows : 3 cups milk ; 54 pound dates; 2 eggs. Seed the dates, and stew them till tender and dry, then rub them through a colander. Heat the milk to boiling. Beat the eggs, and add them to the dates, then add the hot milk and mix thoroughly. (Cornforth.) New England Cream Tart Pie. — Three cups of apples, diced, cooked in 1 cup of water; 2 egg yolks; Yz cup sugar; 1 cup cream; 2 egg whites; 1 tablespoonful pulverized sugar. Cook the apples in the water until quite dry (there should be 1^4 cups when cooked). Add the sugar, egg yolks, and cream. Make a pie crust, turn filling into it, and bake until set. Add the meringue and set in the oven until slightly browned. Baked Indian Pudding. — Two quarts milk; 7 tablespoonfuls corn- meal ; J4 cup sugar ; 1^ cups ground dates ; grated orange peel ; J/^ teaspoon- ful salt. Heat the milk in a double boiler. Add the corn-meal, and stir until the meal does not settle. Cook one hour. Add the remainingi ingre- dients, put into a baking pan, and bake one hour. Date Bread Pudding. — Soak stale bread in milk, and put layers of the soaked bread and seeded dates in a baking pan. Pour over this a raw custard made of 1 quart of milk, 1 cup of sugar, 4 beaten eggs, and 1 teaspoonful of lemon flavoring. Allow it to soak thoroughly, and bake till the custard is set. This pudding is nice served with cranberry sauce. (Cornforth.) Fruit Punch. — One cup grape, strawberry, or other fruit juice; juice of 3 oranges; juice of 3 lemons; J4 cup sugar; 4 cups water. Cut the oranges and lemons in halves and extract the juice by means of the lemon drill. Strain the juice so that it will be perfectly clear. Add this to the unfer- mented grape juice, which may be obtained at any drug store. Add this, with the sugar, to the water. Stir well to dissolve the sugar. Place in an ice-chest to chill. (Cooper.) Raspberry Nectar.' — One- fourth cup lemon juice; 4 tablespoonfuls sugar; 1J4 cups water; 1 cup raspberry juice. Make a lemonade of the lemon juice, sugar, and water, then add the raspberry (red preferred) juice. Chill. (Cooper.) Peach Sherbet. — One quart peach puree; 1^ cups orange juice; \y% cups sugar; J4 cup lemon juice; 1 cup water; whites of 2 eggs. Select nice ripe peaches, pare and put through a colander enough to make one quart. To this add the orange juice, sugar, lemon juice and water. Turn into the freezer and chill thoroughly, then add the stiffly beaten egg whites and con- tinue freezing. (Cooper.) THE FUEL VALUE OF FOODS As remarked in the opening chapter of this book, the chief pur- poses of food are to promote growth, to furnish materials for bod- ily repairs, and to supply heat and force or energy. The energy of the human body is developed from food through its oxidation ( combustion) within the tissues of the body. In the laboratory this energy is measured by means of an instrument called a calorimeter. The unit of measure is the calorie. Approximately, the calorie is the amount of heat required to raise the tem(perature of a pound of water four degrees Fahrenheit. The total calories to be derived from a given quantity of any given food substance when taken into the body, digested and as- similated, is measured by its fuel value. For the maintenance of perfect health the body requires certain definite proportions of each of the three chief classes of nutrient materials : 1. Proteids, which build blood and tissues, the albuminous ele- ments of which the body needs 160 to 240 units daily. 2. Carbohydrates (starches, sugars, dextrins, pectins, and fruit acids), of which the body ordinarily requires for expenditure daily in heat and force 1,000 to 1,400 food units. 3. Fats, which likewise support heat and energy, of which is needed from 500 to 900 units each day. One ounce of proteids yields 116 calories. " " carbohydrates " 116 " " " fats " 265 " Thus fats have two and one-fourth times as great fuel value as have proteids and carbohydrates. The food value in calories of cooked foods is considerably dif- ferent from that of the same foods in a raw state, because of the addition of water or of the evaporation of the juices during the cooking process. [474] Beak CROot'ETiEb Baked Cabbage a la Russe APPENDIX. 475 The accompanying table, copied from the Battle Creek Sani- tarium Diet List, shows the food value of a large variety of food- stuffs when prepared for the table: •o bo at Calories Per Ounce S o ^• .Sao pa o--, a no O CaloricB Serv'd i Almond Butter IJ Almond Cream 3 Apple and Jelly 3t Apples Baked (Sweet) 4 Apples baked With Meltose Dressing 5i Apples Fresh 2i Apple, Grape 6 Apple Juioe 3i Apple Sauce 2f Apple Tapiooa Si Apple Tart 3i Apricot Sauce 1 J Asparagus 3 Asparagus in Cream 4 Asparagus on Toast 3J Barley, Pearl 3| Bananas 2} Bananas Baked 1^ Banana with Mayonnaise . . 4 Beans, Butter 3 Bean Croquettes 2i Beans, Green Lima 3i Beans, Kidney 2i Beans, Lima 2} Beans, Marbled Roast. . . . 2J Beans, Navy 4 Beans, Wax 2J Beets Chopped 4} Beets in Aspic with Mayon- naise 3 Beet Greens 2i Beets Sliced li Beaten Biscuit 1 Biscuit, Gluten 4 Biscuit, Granose 1 Biscuit, Rice 3 Blackberries 3 Blackberry Sauce 3i Blanc Mange, Chocolate. . . 3 Blanc Mange, Cocoanut. . . 2i ' Blanc Mange, Farina 5 Blood Oranges 26 1.1 1.63 .6 2 5 1.2 2.5 2.8 5.3 2.97 1.5 3.2 3.4 5.48 8.74 4.7 8.2 9.5 9.7 8.1 1.2 2.7 3.1 2.6 2.7 8.4 48.5 14.1 8.5 1.5 .8 3.4 3.8 4.16 .9 152.8 65.5 .98 1.3 1 7.15 1.3 .8 .66 10.6 8.8 17 26.9 .87 1.6 4.73 18.3 .8 11 78 .8 .5 1.8 2.4 1.47 .3 .3 10.5 9.1 .3 47.3 2.8 1.9 .9 2.6 3.3 22.86 36.4 21.56 .5 21.4 9 38.36 28.4 200.2 85.8 40.97 30.3 37.5 101.2 47.79 17 21.78 36.9 60.7 21.7 13.9 24.7 50.9 31.08 28.8 40.3 48 23.28 53.72 22.5 30.3 46 38.6 30.96 5.1 11.6 16.8 15.4 11.6 134.9 107.4 99.6 106. 16.8 33.3 42.53 57.5 44.4 14.9 .5 1.16 2.45 3.25 2.66 5.5 2.1 5.8 4.6 2.7 1.64 4.6 7.1 4 1.9 3.2 3.47 3.5 2.06 4.3 1.86 4.4 3.3 2.16 2.6 3.3 19.6 8.6 5.9 6.5 8.6 .75 .93 1 .94 6 3 2.35 1.74 2.26 6.7 133 115 3 4 4 7 4 3 2 34 15 51 105 3 6 11 19 3 30 3 1 4 6 3 3 1 46 30 1 61 3 1 1 8 10 81 111 73 19 16 117 94 143 91 130 100 71 97 148 71 5 15 74 88 89 81 28 54 100 38 72 76 69 52 17 19 15 12 19 104 52 64 93 38 88 57 53 64 69 1 U li li H 1 li 1 i 1 3 t i i 3 1 1 1 i i U i 1 1 1 i i i i i i H 1 i 1 i 1 H li H i 476 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. £63 s° Calories Per Ounce •Sao o Calories Serv'd a> If o 2i Blueberries 4^ Blueberry Sauce si Bread Custard 2 Bread, Corn 2 Bread, Fruit 2 Bread, Graham 2 Bread, White 2 Bread, Gluten 2 Bread, Whole Wheat 41 Bouillion, Tomato 4f Bouillion, Vegetable 2i Browned Cream Gravy 2i^ Brown Gravy 4J Broth, Protose 4J Broth, Bean li Buns li Buns, Fruit 6 Buttermilk 3 Cabbage, Baked 3i Cabbage, Baked in Tomato . 4 Cabbage, Boiled 31 Cabbage, Creamed 4 Cabbage, Steamed 6t Canteloupe 3 Cauliflower, Steamed 1 Celery 3f Celery and Peas 4J Celery, Stewed 2i Cereal Roast 2J Cherries 3i Cherries, White 3 Cherry Sauce li Chili Sauce 3 Corn Cake } Corn Flakes 2J Corn, Green Sweet 2 Corn Pone 2i Corn Roast 2 Cottage Cheese 2i Cream 2i Cream Sauce , Currants, Cherry 3 Cutlets, Macaroni 2i Cutlets, Nut , 2 Cutlets, Protose , 1 Currant Jelly 3i Custard, Bread 21 Corn Pulp 1.5 5 87 9 .7 8 82 .95 5 .2 44 .7 9 3 7 87 8 2 2 6 8 4 9 1 31 4 3 9 .49 .3 .4 06 .9 19.4 14.9 19.12 52 63.4 60.8 63.4 58.1 58 4.77 7 13 3.9 2.9 11.58 66.8 68.2 5.6 4.1 3.39 1.9 3.7 1.9 10.9 3 3.9 8.7 3.92 22.7 19.5 19.5 29.4 28.26 52.8 91.3 22 68.3 24.15 5.06 5.3 9 14.9 32.35 15.26 17.3 90.1 19.12 23.2 21. 17. 57. 72. 78. 76 76. 72. 71. 16. 18. 53 36. 7 19. 91. 96. 10. 18. 6. 5. 13. 5. 11. 7. 5. 20. 11. 61. 22. 22. 32. 35. 95. 103. 28. 108. 52. 37. 57. 35. 16. 74. 61 61 91 57. 29 4 6 7 37 3 1 13 4 3 4 56 95 7 3 7 6 9 5 7 83 9 8 8 6 8 6 5 5 6 96 36 5 6 7 6 .5 2 3 .6 4.6 5.8 1.75 1.3 1.27 1.3 1.3 1.4 1.4 6 5.5 1.88 2.76 14.2 5.2 1.1 1.1 9.6 5.3 14.4 4.3 7.5 4.3 8.6, 12.6 18.1 4.8 8.5 1.6 4.4 4.4 3 2.7 1 .97 3.5 .92 1.8 2.6 1.7 2.8 6 1.3 1.6 1.6 1.09 1.75 3.3 1 3 22 17 10 20 18 22 24 17 29 18 3 11 22 10 10 25 12 4 3 5 3 5 3 1 12 5 23 3 4 4 7 42 7 10 11 22 40 6 7 5 41 56 50 1 22 9 4 7 112 25 4 9 7 8 5 36 18 76 64 3 16 24 26 10 26 9 14 31 14 13 32 29 74 5 8 6 3 90 1 7 59 60 25 107 50 86 57 40 11 7 45 65 66 108 61 121 125 120 121 22 28 31 8 11 62 91 89 40 12 12 8 14 8 70 9 5 31 16 55 42 63 90 40 168 67 58 130 68 10 12 18 45 98 37 35 99 266 59 4 I U i u li li i i li * i I li li i i i i i i i i I*. i i li i f 1 i 3 i t 2 li i li 1 i 2i li li 1 2 t APPENDIX. 477 31 Carrots, Creamed 3 Caramel Custard 1 Whole-wheat Wafers or Crackers 2i Cutlets, Nuttolene 1 Catsup, Grape 4i Granola Fruit Mush 5 Grapes (At water) ... 3 Grapes, Cooked li Granola 3 Dandelion Greens li Dates 5i Date Pumpkin Pie 1 Dales Stuffed 2 Dressing for Roasts 3 Endive 3 Egg Macaroni 21 Egg Mayonnaise Salad li Eggs, Poached 2i Eggs, Poached, on Toast . . . li Egg Plant li Eggs, Hard Jellied li Eggs, Soft Jellied 2i Eggs, Spanish 2i Egg Sauce 2 Eggs, Scrambled 3i Fruit Gelee 3 Floating Island 2f Fig Pudding 2 Figs, Steamed 3 Figs, Stewed 5i Gluten Mush 2i Gooseberries, Stewed 4 Golden Dressing 4i Grains of Gold Sf Grape Fruit 1 Granose Flakes li Gravy, Creamed Gluten 1 Gravy, Brown Nut 4i Granola Date Mush 4i Granola Mush If Granuto 6 Gruel, Baked Potato 5 Gruel, Baked Potato Cream 6 Gruel, Barley 6i Gruel, Corn Flakes 6i Gruel, Corn Meal 5i Gruel, Cream Gluten 4J Gruel, Farina Calories Per Ounce S 2.01 5.22 11.4 16.27 3.60 3.1 1.16 .88 15.6 2.8 2.5 7 4.6 5 3.3 5.45 13.37 16.3 14.1 6.63 16.3 16.3 9.1 4.8 14.1 1.10 5.45 4.7 4.6 2.3 3.3 .5 2.4 1.7 .9 13.4 4.3 7.8 3 4.3 19.1 .7 1.8 1.48 .7 .8 4.3 1.4 7.5 11.4 26 32.66 7.64 1.17 3.3 3.43 1.1 3.7 7.5 24.1 27.7 18.37 1 30.7 30.66 33 18.28 26.43 32 33 31.3 22.7 23.7 .5 12.4 15.3 .6 .4 .3 53.1 .4 .5 1 17.8 11.5 I .3 5 5.7 19.8 .7 .9 .4 20.3 .04 10.3 23.6 84. 13. 68. 34. 16. 34. 85. 13. 91. 26 82. 21 4. 9, .04 45 1 6 7 9 4 68 9 5 8 8 4 9 2 6 8 7 9 2 1 8 9 1 Calories Serv'd .sgo «.2o 9-. 3 P.0 O 19.8 40.2 132.7 63.5 78.5 39.25 30.9 38.7 101.7 18 101.5 57.1 114.7 48.2 9.3 35.5 44.5 48.3 57.76 71 48.3 48.3 43.47 35.5 39.25 39.7 39.6 54.7 79.1 52.1 18.2 19.4 126.6 16.6 13.2 98.2 31.5 24.2 29.2 28.23 115.5 13.2 39.5 12.39 7.7 8. 37.5 10.5 5.05 2.4 .81 1.6 1.2 3.5 4.7 3 .98 5.5 1 1.75 .87 2.07 10.7 2.8 2.25 2.1 1.7 1.4 2.1 2.1 2.33 2.82 2.5 2.5 2.5 1.83 1 1.93 5.4 5.15 .8 6 7.6 1 3.12 4.15 3.42 3.55 .87 8.2 3.3 8.07 13 12.5 2.7 9.5 5" 29 39 36 73 27 80 7 5 16 6 1 8 12 136 22 88 3 59 69 42 47 38 43 43 72 47 45 2 62 42 1 1 1 42 2 2 1 38 13 4 2 8 35 101 4 6 3 108 1 86 30 66 104 79 92 105 34 160 138 74 51 13 26 1 67 54 i li li H * li 1 1 li i IJ 3 1 1 i 1 1 li 1 7 TB 1 i i li li H li i 1 i 1 i i i i i li li 3 i li i i i 2 7 18 2 120 71 96 140 14 81 49 56 66 45 64 15 5 109 103 160 35 41 63 40 42 69 43 i 478 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. f^ bo Calories Per Ounce ce a Calories Sorv'd •o ^ 1 .9a5 3P.0 CO 2 'S3 1 ^ II 1 H O Ph N o £ 6 Gruel, Granola 8 Gruel, Granose Flakes 6 Gruel, Oatmeal 4i Gruel, Potato Meal 6 Gruel, Plain Gluten 6 Gruel, Rice 5 Gruel, Savory Potato Meal. 8 Gruel, Wheat Flake 2J Hash, Protose 3t Hash, Potatoes and Onion. 3 Hash, Potato and Celery .. . 2f Hash, Vegetable If Honey 4t Hominy ^ Hominy Grits 4i Hulled Corn 5f Hulled Wheat 2f Jelly, Chocolate 2i Jelly, Cranberry 3 Jelly, Cherry 3 Jelly, Cucumber 3 Jelly, Lemon 24 Jelly, Orange 3 Jelly, Orange and Pineapple 4 Jelly, Pineapple 3} Jellied, Peach 3i Jelly, Tomato 1 Jelly, Currant 5^ Lemonade IJ Lettuce with Lemon li Lemon Sauce li Maple Syrup 2i Macaroni and Cornlet 24 Macaroni AuGratin 3 Macaroni Cutlets 3 Macaroni, Egg 3 Macaroni and Tomato 2i- Maltose U Malted Nuts 5J Malted Nuts Cream 6 Malted Nuts Egg Nog 4 Malted Nuts, Frozen 2 Malted Nuts, Hot 2i Marmalade, Pig 2i Marmalade, Prune f Meltose Sauce li Meltose with Butter IJ Meltose, whipped 3 Nut and Rice Croquettes. . . 2.7 .8 L3 1 3 .7 2.9 .04 8 2.35 2.G6 2.5 .5 2.6 1.7 2.6 3.3 3 .38 .52 .43 .58 3.2 1.2 1.1 4 10.8 13.8 5.4 5 27.6 8.3 10.8 9.2 27.6 2.8 .8 1.1 .33 1.1 13.25 .9 .06 1.4 .1 .3 1.2 10.7 .22 4.3 10.79 9. 6G 7.1 .5 .4 .5 1 14.9 1.01 .3 .23 3.48 1.7 1.2 4.9 5.8 10.2 13.9 5.8 11.9 5.22 21.1 17.63 21.0 17.4 94.7 20.7 4.5 20.7 22 17.4 49.7 16.6 3 30.57 36.4 24.5 12.6 24 8.8 .6 6.9 15.88 28.5 20.7 3.86 73.6 28 25.2 24.5 73.6 .4 .3 .04 62.94 .04 9.64 90. 14. 5 37. 83 11. 17.85 32.35 9.34 17.16 86.2 51.2 15.4 13.65 17 51.2 48.7 43.9 80 62.25 80.0 17.7 15.6 5.7 8.5 11.3 17.2 7.7 25.9 6.1 33.4 30.7 33.3 27 95.2 23.8 16.6 23.8 26.3 35.3 51.1 16.6 3.8 30.57 36.4 25.1 12.6 28.1 13.7 91.3 14.2 6.7 37.3 83 22.7 44.5 74.6 35.5 26 86.2 152.4 51.7 49.6 50.7 152.4 51.9 45 81.2 125. 53 81.14 40.6 40 13 1 15 45 86 59 11 96 163 153 96 145 100 29 76 42 35 45 81 38 59 44 63 57 63 49 149 87 66 87 126 49 97 50 9 100 100 73 50 85 32 99 75 7 50 100 26 50 98 26 49 200 68 89 82 68 100 118 97 49 100 99 56 1 i i i 1 i li I 1 1 1 i 1* 1 1 u 1 1 i 1 i i 1 i i 1 i li 2i 1 4 2 2 3 3 2 3 li 1 i 2 1 li APPENDIX. 479 8" Calories Per Ounce S O rH o Calories Sorv'd II 3 Kut and Rice Patties 24 Nut and Vegetable Stew 2 Nut Croquettes 2i Nut Fillets 1 Nut Gravy 2i NutlrishStew 2i Nut Loaf with Peas 3i Nut Meat Pie 2 Nut Patties 2 J Nut Patties- Tomato Sauce. . 3 Nut Ragout 2J Nut Steak with Gravy , 3 Nuttolene-Apple Sauce , 3 Nuttolene- Apricot Sauce. . .. 2f Nuttolene A la Cream 2 Nuttolene Broiled 2 Nuttolene with Chili Sauce, 2 Nuttolene with Mint Sauce. , 3 Nuttolene-Cranberry Sauce . 2i Nuttolene Cutlets 1^ Mayonnaise, Cooked 2i Nuttolene Fricassee , i Nuts, Almonds i Nuts, Almonds Salted i Nuts, Brazil ^ Nuts, Pecans \ Nuts, Pine i Nuts, Pine Salted i Nuts, Walnut, Eng i Nuts, Filberts 5 Oranges 5 Oranges, Blood 1 Orange Sauce 4i Oatmeal 1 Oatmeal Wafers 4i Oats, Rolled H Olives, Ripe (7) 3 Onions, Baked 2i Onions, Boiled 3 Onions, Creamed 4i Oniops on Toast 3 Onions, Escalloped 3 Parsnips, Browned 3 Parsnips, Creamed 2i Parsnips, Escalloped 3 Parsnips, Mashed 84 Patties, Peas 21 Patties, Rice 13.25 6.3 18.6 15.1 7.8 8.9 18.2 15 18.6 15.1 8.97 18.5 9.7 10 10.3 14.4 14.4 14.4 9.7 16.27 6.87 10.35 24.5 24.5 19.8 11.2 39.5 39.5 19.4 18.2 .9 .9 2.6 3.3 13.7 3.3 2 3.16 1.13 1.73 4.1 3.21 2 2.56 3.27 1.7 13 14.9 9. 6. 21. 14. 11. 8. 16. 18. 21. 20. 27. 18. 18. 18, 27 27, 27. 27, 18, 32, 67, 23 146 146 178, 188 131 131 169 174 2 2 5 5 7 4 5 4 ■98 .1 6 3 .43 31 29 3 .5 .4 24 40.6 21.3 49.6 46.6 24.2 30.25 46.4 64.2 49.6 44.4 41.5 46.4 42 40.7 45.7 50.2 50.2 50.2 45.7 62.5 76.8 40.4 191.1 191.1 206.1 217.8 179.2 179.2 207.5 207.5 14.9 14.9 103.5 18 123.8 18 76.1 33.7 10.52 21.9 35.2 24.67 25.2 26.3 30.2 17.1 54.8 131.2 2.4 4.6 1.5 2.14 4.15 3.3 2.15 1.6 1.55 2.2 2.4 2.1 2.38 2.45 2.2 2 2 2 2.17 1.6 1.3 2.5 .52 .52 .48 .46 .55 .55 .47 .48 6.7 6.7 .96 5.6 .8 5.6 1.3 2.96 9.5 4.5 2.8 4.05 3.9 3.8 3.33 5.8 1.8 8 6 18 10 6 7 8 5 48 .76 37 li i i li 2 1 1 li li li li 1 1 1 li u 1 1 i i 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 4 1 4 li 4 1 1 i 4 11 4 4 4 4 i 2 2i 480 SCIENCE IN- THE KITCHEN. -o bo ^ a o Calories Per Ounce t*» CO fe'O o O ^' 5pio o Calories Serv'd a) 4 4 4 3i 3 3 4 4f 3J 4 4 5i 4 5 3f 5 5 5i 4 4 2f i 3 3 3 3i 4J 3i 34 2 4 4i 3i 2f 21 3 3J 2i 3i 34 3 34 34 3 3 3f Pears Pears, Cooked Peaches Peaches, Cooked Peas, Pur^e Peas, Green Pineapple, Sliced Pie, Apple Pie, Blueberry Pie, Blackberry Pie, Cocoanut Cream Pie, Custard Pie, Cherry Pie, Date Pumpkin Pie, Lemon (,\ Pie) Pie, Mince Pie, Orange (J Pie) Pie, Pumpkin Pie, Raspberry Pie, Squash Pie, New England Cream . Plums Plums, Sauce Popped Corn Potatoes, Baked Nut and Rice Patties Potatoes, Boiled Potatoes, Browned Potato Chowder Potato Cakes Potatoes In Cream Sauce . . Potato Croquettes Potatoes, Cream Baked Potatoes, Escalloped Potatoes, Glazed Potatoes Hashed Browned. Potatoes, Hashed Potatoes in Jackets Potato Loaf Potatoes, Lyonnaise Potatoes, Mashed Potatoes, Mashed Sweet. . . Potatoes, Minced Potatoes, New, Creamed . . Potatoes, New, with Peas Potatoes, Sweet, Browned Potatoes, Steamed Potatoes, Savory .7 .7 .9 .9 8.5 7.8 .5 7.18 5.2 6."46 4.9 8.2 7 7.94 15.09 11.39 3.25 8.18 4.27 6.42 1.2 1.1 12.5 3.4 7.81 2.9 3.5 2.7 3.76 3.2 4,58 4.1 3.6 3.5 2.95 2.96 2.9 4 3. 3 3. 3. 3. 17 5 02 2 4.46 4.11 2.9 2.2 1.3 1.1 .3 .3 9 9.1 .8 16.7 12.7 23' 16.8 14.6 24.1 26.9 22.2 19.31 7.26 14.36 22.7 23.7 13.3 .4 11.87 .3 5.17 17 10 12.87 28.7 12.9 10.7 5.17 19.27 19.27 .3 15 7.42 8 5. 10.96 12.87 7.75 11.25 .3 4.9 10.5 23.3 11.6 19.7 17.5 17.5 11.3 35.18 47.4 18.5 25.1 12.8 20.9 35 34.4 12.6 59.1 65.3 60.' 85 52.2 68.8 57.1 73.54 12.47 66.3 35.4 65.64 63.5 59.9 24.7 37.4 117.6 32.7 35.0 27.6 38 30.1 39.9 34.8 56.6 38.7 35.3 38 44.15 44.15 27.6 36.5 37.2 31.8 58.2 35.5 34.8 34.1 75 27.6 27.1 5.4 4 7.8 4.8 3 3 8 1.6 1.5 1.65 1.9 1.46 1.75 1.3 1.3 1.5 2.8 1.5 1.58 1.6 4 2.67 .85 3 2.85 3.5 2.6 3.3 2.5 2.8 1.7 2.5 2.75 2.6 2.2 2.2 3.5 2.7 2.7 3.14 1.7 2.8 2.8 2.93 1.34 3.5 3.7 3 3 24 23 2 32 20 67 93 46 71 50 51 45 165 49 181 76 64 58 126 120 158 73 71 77 126 90 f 1 4 i U 1 4 21 24 103 116 184 138 160 169 134 U 230 203 113 95 97 40 88 43 67 97 51 83 68 50 85 90 97 62 62 67 59 72 66 169 62 68 80 180 67 74 2 3 21 3 3i- 34 24 21 34 34 24 1 1 4 1 1 1 14 14 li 14 li 14 14 14 14 14 i li 1 1 2 1 li li 2i i 1 APPENDIX. 481 •a m n m I- Calories Per Ounce I o ^ o Calorics Serv'd 2i 2 4 2i 3 2J 2 4 2i 2* 3i 2i 2i 3i 3t 2i 21 3i 2i 3i 2* 31 3| 3i 2f 3f Bi 3i 3i 3i 3i i 1 1 3 3i 3i 3k 4 2i 2i 4 4i 5 Potato Salad Protose, Broiled Protose, Braized Protose, Chipped in Cream . . Protose, Minced on Toast. . . , Protose, Potted Protose, Potted with Mayon naise , Protose, Panned Protose Patties Protose Roast with Dressing Protose Steak with Onion . . Protose Steak with Gravy . . Prunes Prune Marmalade Pudding, Baked Indian . Pudding, Bread Custard . . . Pudding, Cream Hice Pudding, Date Pudding, Fig Potatoes, Sliced in Cream Pudding, Snow Pudding, Sago Pudding, Tapioca Puffs, Cocoanut Puflfs, Corn Pufis, Currant Puffs, Fig Puffs, Graham Puffs, Nut Puffs, White Puffs, Whole Wheat Pudding, Chocolate Quince Sauce Rice, Puffed Radishes Raisins Raisins, Cooked Raspberry Sauce, Red Raspberry Sauce, Black .... Raspberries, Fresh Red .... Raspberries, Fresh Black — Rolls, Cocoanut Rolls, Cream Rolls, Diabetic Rice, Boiled Rice, Browned Rice with Raisins 4.56 22.8 13 10.8 11.88 21.2 18.6 8.9 19.24 18.5 .8 .8 2.33 6.44 4.25 7.2 4.7 3.94 4.78 .53 4.5 9.52 12.5 8.84 8.36 10 10.1 9.4 10 4.95 .48 9 1.5 3 2 1.2 1.6 1.2 2 9.3 11.4 3.3 3.8f 2.99 25.77 16 12.17 20.3 23.77 15.06 10.2 6.22 9.4 7.52 .5 .3 .34 .99 38.5 39.72 25.98 45. 39 49 31.4 40.5 43.1 2.1 2 3.1 2.5 2.37 56. 49. 40. 51 46. 37. 45 23. 57. 45. 97. 54. 37. 30. 28. 48. 92. 88. 81. 79. 87. 94. 86. 84. 58. 20 101. 8. 100. 65. 23. 31. 15. 19. 125. 117. 7 55 4 1 65 2 31 75 1 .83 6 33 52 07 08 13 24 26 15 06 16 18 7 32.1 43.94 28.97 3.1 2.27 3.4 50 44 56 49 51 1 1 20 112 72 60 42 60 23 2 45 115 90 83 77 93 129 84 86 80 2 18 10 144 53 1 2 28 18 61 29 24 96 97 25 66 64 170 96 52 41 96 68 177 168 162 170 172 161 162 156 104 71 46 5 88 176 71 88 46 57 178 195 111 183 133 1 1 li 1 1* 1 u li li 1 1 i 2 H 2i U li i 1 li 3i 3 2i 34 3 3i 31 21 2 1 i i 1 2 1 1 i 1 3* 21 li 2 U 482 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. Calories Per Ounce a Calories Serv'd •a o -: £-2g 11? 1 ^ II 1 2 S II OD a i: £ O n o h o & 3 28 9.91 21.18 34.37 2.9 14 42 94 1* 8 5 .9 96.6 06 .94 3 47 i fi 2.8 2.7 16.1 16.4 2 12 11 i •?. ?.n 4.27 26.16 32.69 8 4 6 40 i 1 5 1.9 32.5 35.9 2.78 3 3 69 i 4 37 16.56 14.21 35 2.85 6 24 20 i 97 .10 53.6 34.71 5.3 2 1 10 * fiS 2.35 2.8 75. 85 17.1 1 5 6 i 1 f» 18.2 17.2 37.-5 2.6 4 37 34 i ?. 5 5.8 45.8 54.1 1.85 3 6 41 5 9 34.8 58.6 99.3 1 7 44 74 Iv 4 8.5 45 57.5 1.72 3 8 39 i R 4 18.3 26.41 48 2.06 3 19 28 i 198. 07 2.852 00.92 .5 99 1 1 13 37 30.66 .46 44.5 2.25 30 69 1 1 1 98 2.53 26 8 32 3 3.1 5 8 62 i 4.5 3.8 18.9 27.3 3.6 8 7 35 i 1 1 .6 5 6.7 15 2 1 7 ^ 4 9 10 29.5 44.4 2.25 10 2 d67 1 33 fifi 67.73 12. 561 03.95 .96 44 13 i'it 2 6 ?,4 16.02 12.5 34.8 2.8 18 4 636 1 4.56 25.77 15.06 45.39 2.1 1(1 5 733 1 11 (> 38.4 6.2 56.2 1.78 25 8 614 li .7 51.7 2.3 54.7 1.8 2 9 3 5 1 1 8 10.6 4.4 16.9 5.8 8 47 20 i 4 3 4.8 9.2 18.8 5.5 6 6 13 i 4 37 19.4 23.9 47.25 2 12 62 76 H 11,2 33.9 37.6 82.8 1.2 20 69 69 H 10 50.12 39.09 99.29 1 15 75 60 14 fi 08 30.47 53.66 90.22 1.1 10 50 90 H 7 4 88.6 70.6 1 16.6 .85 10 49 91 li fi 8 38.2 87 82 1.2 12 71 67 H 8,7 42.1 40.4 91.4 1.09 14 70 66 H 5,07 28.2 28.5 61.9 1 12 68 70 14 40 6 44.8 53.8 1 39.2 .7 80 89 106 2i 9.86 15.98 25.34 51.19 1.9 29 47 74 14 2.17 .4 8.9 11.5 8.7 10 1 39 4 5,37 28.85 9.68 48.9 2 24 133 43 3 6,76 14.4 21.69 42.85 2.3 32 68 100 2 6 1 14.6 13.2 83.9 2.97 27 6 558 14 6,3 14.6 14.5 35.4 2.83 31 72 72 14 2.9 17 8.8 28.7 3.48 13 74 38 li 3.11 21.34 8.35 32.8 8 15 98 37 14 2.7 19.2 9 80.9 3.2 13 93 44 14 3,24 18.33 4.57 26.14 3.82 16 88 21 li 8.55 22 6.45 32 3 16 104 30 14 44 Rice, Steamed or Creamed. . i Rice Flakes 4 Rutabagas, Mashed 14 Salad, Apple and Celery 24 Salad, Banana Cherry Sauce. 2i Salad, Beet and Potato li Salad, Beet and Lemon 24 Salad, Cabbage-Lemon 2 Salad, Chopped Cabbage 2i Salad, Date and Apple li Salad, Date and Walnut 4 Salad Dressing, Golden 1 Salad, Banana Mayonnaise . . i Salad Dressing, French 24 Salad, Egg Mayonnaise .... 2J Salad, Fruit 2 Salad, French li Salad, Lettuce with Lemon. . 24 Salad, Nuttolene and Apple . 2 Salad, Protose and Celery . . . 3 Salad, Peas and Celery 24 Salad, Potato 24 Salad, Royal 14 Salad, String Bean 4 Salad, Tomato with Mayon- naise 24 Salad, Vegetable 14 Sandwich, Baked Bean 14 Sandwich, Cottage Cheese . . 14 Sandwich, Egg 14 Sandwich, Fig 14 Sandwich, Jelly 14 Sandwich, Lettuce 14 Sandwich, Nuttolene 24 Sandwich, Salad 2 Savory Roast 3 Savory Spaghetti 44 Soup, Bean and Tapioca 44 Soup, Cream of Lettuce 44 Soup, Cream Lima Bean . . . . 44 Soup, Cream Lentil 44 Soup, Cream of Split Pea 44 Soup, Cream of Rice 44 Soup, Cream of Browned Onion 44 Soup, Cream of Potato 41 Soup, Cream of Asparagus . . 44 Soup, Cream of Spinach. . . APPENDIX. 483 •C CO sa li o° Calories Per Ounce ■p 2 OQ Oo o Calories Serv'd v J3 3 4i Soup, Clear Tomato 41 Soup, Cream of Corn 4i Soup, Cream of Barley 4i Soup, Cream of Pea 4i Soup, Cream of Scotch Pea. . 41 Soup, Cream of Celery 41 Soup, Cream of Tomato 41 Soup, Cream of Vegetable Oyster 41 Soup, Fruit 41 Soup, Kidney Bean 41 Soup, Nut French 41 Soup, Nut and Rice 41 Soup, Navy Bean 41 Soup, Pea Green 4} Soup, Split Pea 41 Soup, Tomato Bisque 41 Soup, Vegetable 3 Spinach 3i Spinach, Creamed 4 Spinach on Toast 3 Spinach Souffle 3 Spaghetti Cutlets 3 Spaghetti and Tomato Zi Squash, Baked si Squash, Steamed 4 Strawberries 3^ Strawberry Sauce 8i Sanitas Steak-Tomato 5 Tangerines 5 Toast, Apple 5 Toast, Apricot 5 Toast, Banana 5 Toast, Blueberry 5 Toast, Blackberry 5 Toast, Cream 4i Toast, French Apple 5 Toast, Grape 5 Toast, Peach 5 Toast, Prune 5 Toast, Red Raspberry 5 Toast, Strawberry 5 Toast, Snow Flake 5 Toast, Tomato 4i Toast, Tomato Cream 3 Tomatoes Baked on Toast. . . 3 Tomatoes, Breaded 3} Tomatoesi Stewed 3.1 3.5 2.1 5.9 6.14 2.8 2.8 2.4 .15 11.25 2.2 1.27 9.4 4.8 7.18 3.1 .96 3.3 3 5.3 6.4 13.82 5 1.6 1 1.2 .9 22.8 .9 1.4 2.2 3.2 1.95 1.86 4.15 4.65 1.14 1.5 1.86 2.2 1.95 5.09 2.26 5.16 4.77 1.9 1.4 7 18.5 14.76 18 14.6 19 20 21 .01 9.48 4.3 3.8 4 14.5 1.85 10.5 5.71 1 13.1 28 19.3 28.49 3.86 2.2 1.3 1.6 1 35.4 .5 3.48 2.7 15.9 9.23 5.7 29.9 9.73 2.63 2.45 3 2.7 3.65 23.17 3.2 28.8 9.69 4.47 .5 8.9 10 7.16 13.2 14.1 4.7 5.96 4.6 26.88 21.38 4.1 2.6 24. 'i 7.8 18.07 2.4 6.9 4.93 5.2 18.7 6.7 32.35 17.16 16 12.3 8.6 22.7 10.4 13.5 27.2 27.1 22.4 23.9 34.8 13.6 27.4 32.8 24.3 32.38 28.4 29 14.64 16.2 21.4 20.2 10.9 4.7 19.15 32.12 24 37.1 34.84 26.6 28.78 28 37. 42. 10. 7. 38. 27. 27. 16 13. 9. 21. 52. 32. 74. 26. 19. 14. 11. 24. 68. 14. 32. 33 41. 35 43. 47. 41. 37. 28. 37. 33. 34. 42. 21. 55. 34. 17. 6. 5.2 3.1 4.1 2.7 2.9 3.7 3.4 17 16 12 28 31 13 10 11 1 53 10 4 44 21 34 14 1 9 10 20 20 41 15 4 3 5 3 74 5 4 10 13 10 7 18 16 5 8 8 12 10 21 91 14 23130 36 87 76 84 73 90 90 94 45 20 13 19 68 8 50 23 3 47 110 59 86 11 6 5 7 3 116 2 14 12 77 46 26 143 39 12 13 12 15 19 110 47 47 37 63 71 22 25 20 124 Ui2 20 8 112 6 83 11 26 13 18 70 21 98 49 40 42 38 69 35 68 132 128 110 119 16712 64 2i 120U 15811 129H 155:11 148; 11 146ill 69,2 77|l 97 2J 721J 32| i 181 1 H li 11 11 li li li li 2 i i n li li 1 i i i 2 1 2i i i i i i 2i i H U 2 14 484 SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN. CO (O Calories Per Ounce H QD •02 d Calories Serv'd O ,-; j 00 5fto o 4 Tomatoes, Sliced 3 Turnips, Creamed 4 Turnips, Mashed 2f Vegetable Oysters, Creamed. 3 Vegetable Oysters, Escalloped 2i Walnut Roast 2 Watercress 8 Watermelon 54 Wheat, Cracked J Wheat Flakes 4 Wheat Grits 5i Wheat, Hulled i Whipped Cream 4| Soup Lentel 4J Bean Soup 4| Bean Soup, Lima 1 2.18 .6 2.14 2.5 9.5 1.4 .5 3.3 11 2.1 3.3 2.9 5.06 9.4 6.58 1.1 4.6 6.7 16 4 4 4.6 10.9 17.7 5.6 6 13 2.8 2.7 6.1 16.4 2 12 12.76 6.17 21 4.75 5 3 18.7 8.3 24.5 4 8 42 40 22.5 72 1.4 26 112 .8 3.4 5.6 17.8 2 1 .5 7.8 8.8 11.4 4 4 1 22 26.3 3.8 18 6 3.9 88.9 103.8 .96 8 3 1 15.3 18.4 5.4 9 4 1 22 26.3 3.8 18 6 49.3 10.14 62.2 1.6 1 20 .46 11.79 17.38 5.7 22 2 4. |24. 7 38. 1 2.6 44 19 1. 26 24. 16 32.01 3.1 31 5 17 31 11 15 25 62 7 67 126 64 62 126 4 51 112 114 i i i i ! !^ i i U i 4 14 li The Following Table Shows Clearly the Inferior Value of Flesh Foods. 3i Beef Juice 2i Beef , Roasted (Fat) 2i Beef, Round (Bpiled, Lean) . . 6 Bouillon 3i Chicken (Broilers) 34 Clams 5 Cod Fish 24 Goose 3 Halibut (Steak) 2 Lamb Chops (Boiled) 3^ Lamb (Leg, Roast) 3 Liver (Veal) 2 Lobsters 2i Mutton (Leg, Boiled) si Oysters 1 Pork (Bacon, Smoked Medium Fat) 2i Pork, (Ham, Boiled) 3 Pork (Loin, Chops) 2i Salmon (California) 2i Shad 14 Trout (Brook) li Turkey 2^ Veal (Leg, Boiled) 1.71 136.85 4.54 .3 6.56 1.08 1.02 95.4 13.9 177.3 65.4 84.5 46.6 25.71 55.5 59.1 11.2 7. 155. 45. 3. 31. 8. 20. 113. 35. 105 55. 35. 23. 83. 10. 188.6 90.3 103 66.6 47.61 77.7 83.2 41.6 .53 1.1 .97 1.5 2.1 3.6 1.2 2.4 352 10 1 21 4 5 252 39 152 120 39 10 30 12 188 144 246 105 54 10 71 27 3 H 1 i 1 1 INDEX. Page Absorption 38 Acorn coffee 448 Aerated bread, general direc- tions for making 152 Air, incorporation of, for unfer- mented bread 154 Aladdin cooker 66 Albumen 26 Alcoholic drinks and condiments 31 Alimentary canal 35 Almond 390 cornstarch pudding 321 cream 321, 436 cream cup custard 326 cream, granuto with 439 cream sauce 355 meal gems 452 milk 448 milk, hot 436 milk with lemon 436 soup 421 Almonds, to blanch . . . . ; 394 roasted 396 Amylodextrine 81 Apple 445 and banana salad 215 beverage 449 and bread custard 321 cake 344 charlotte 321 cornstarch custard 321 custard 320 custard pie 338 dessert 299 and granuto pudding 326 jelly 314 Pagb Apple loaf, baked 319 meringue dessert 300 pie, dried 339- pie, dried, with raisins 339 pudding, baked 302 rice custard pudding 329 and rice dessert 307 rose cream 300 sago pudding 311 sandwich 302 sauce, baked 187 sauce, smooth 188 snow 300 tapioca 309 tart 317 tart with nut crust 318 toast water 449 Apples 169 with apricots 189 baked 186, 189 baked, with cream 300 baked, with gluten mush 294, 438 boiled, with syrup 188 citron 186 compote of 188 dried 190 dried, with other dried fruit 191 grape 301 in jelly 314 lemon 187 with raisins 189 steamed 188 stewed 189 stewed whole 187 Apricot 171 and bread pudding 323 485 4SS' INDEX. Apricot pie, dried 339 Apricots and peaclies, dried 191 Arrowroot gruel 429 Asparagus 254 with cream sauce 255 description 254 with egg sauce 256 and peas 255 points 255 preparation and coolcing 254 soup 278, 423 stewed 256 on toast 255 Bain marie 232 Baking 49 powders 150 Banana 177 baked, with granuto 439 custard 322 dessert 310 fruit mold 314 salad 214 shortcake 318 Bananas, baked 301 escalloped 304 filled 305 in syrup 301 toasted wheat flakes with . . . 438 Barley, baked 97 description 95 fig pudding 302 and fruit drink 449 fruit pudding 302 general suggestions for cook- ing 96 gruel 430 lemonade 449 meal 96 milk 449 and nut soup 423 nutritive value 96 patent 96 pearled 96 pearled, with lentil gravy... 97 Barley, pearled, with raisins 97 pot 96 soup, cream 281 used by Greeks and Romans 95 Batter pudding 332 Bean and corn soup 278, 422 and hominy soup 279 and lentil patties 420 patties 418 and potato soup 279 pudding with tomato sauce. 419 sandwich, hulless 425 soup, baked 276 soup, black 276 soup, green 281 and tomato soup 276 Beans 222 baked 223 baked, hulless 412 baked, with nuts 418 baked, rich 225 boiled 223 boiled in a bag 223 description 222 marbled 419 mashed 224 mashed, with walnuts 418 mashed, with stewed protose 401 in mythology 222 scalloped 223 shelled 267 stewed 224, 418 string 267, 269 Beaten biscuit 161 Beating 56 Beaumont's experiments with condiments 29 Beet cofiEee. 360 greens 247 hash , 247 salad 248 Beets 246 baked 247 boiled 248 chopped 248 INDEX. 4S7 Beets, description 246 and potatoes 247 preparation and cooking... 246 stewed 248 Berry shortcake, with prepared cream 318 Beverage, apple 449 blackberry 361 fruit 361 grape 361 pineapple 362 Beverages 357 cold, recipes 361 from fruit juices 448 Bill of fare, making of 453 Bills of fare 457 Biscuits, raised 145 browned corn meal 417 Blackberry 176 beverage 361 cornstarch pudding 303 mush 293 syrup 210 tapioca 310 Blancmange, cocoanut and corn- starch 303 cornstarch 303 farina 304 sea moss 312 Boiling 51 liquids, adding food to 54 Bouillon, vegetable 435, 465 Braid 146 Bran jelly 91 stock 276 Brass utensils 58 Brazil nut 391 Bread, antiquity of 109 and apricot pudding 323 Miss B.'s, one-rising 143 brown 146 care of, after baking 136 cocoanut corn 398 custard pudding 322 custard, steamed 333 Bread, date 146 dough, to cover 133 fermented, test of good 137 and fig pudding 323 from fine flour Ill and fruit custard 322, 332 how many times to knead . . 132 for invalids 451 to keep 137 lightness of 129 in the making of desserts... 297 milk yeast 147 nutritive value of 110 oatmeal 147 pans 134 potato 143 potato, with whole-wheat flour 144 pudding, boiled custard 322 pulled 143 rye 144 starting the 124 steamed 140 various substances used for. 110 Vienna 142 water 142 well-baked, test for 136 wheat loaf 452 Bread-making, chemicals, use of 150 chemistry of 116 proportion of materials needed in 125 temperature for 128 Breads, fermented 118, 142 BreadstufEs and bread-making.. 109 Breakfast dishes 287 dishes, miscellaneous, recipes 293 grains for 84 Brewis 293 Broiling or grilling 49 Bromose 436 Brose 93 Broth, nut and lemon-juice 423 protose 435 488 INDEX. Broth, Scotch... 284 vegetable 434, 435 Brown Betty 305 bread 146 gravy 405 gravy, protose roast with . . . 408 sauce. 351, 403, 466 soup 279 Browned hash 406 Brushes, kitchen 75 Budrum 93 Buns, plain 347 walnut 398 Butter, absorbent properties of.. 376 in ancient times 373 artificial 373 flavor and color of 372 French 378 peanut 395 Butter-making 374 Buttermilk, cottage cheese from 377 composition of 370 Butternut and hickory nut 393 Cabbage 248 baked 250, 417 boiled 250 celery 250 chopped 250 description 248 hash 250 mashed 250 preparation and cooking . . . 249 salad 250 stewed 250 and tomatoes 250 Cake 343 apple 344 delicate cup 345 fig layer 345 fruit 346 fruit jelly 345 general suggestions 343 gold and silver 345 loaf 346 Cake, Mrs. N.'s white sponge. . 348 nut pound 316 nut sponge 348 with orange cream filling... 317 pineapple 347 simple sponge 346 sponge 347 sunshine 347 Cakes, icing for 345 Calcutta sandwich 425 Canned fruit, opening 199 Canning fruit 193 porcelain lined or granite ware for 194 recipes 200 Caramel cofiEee 360 custard 323 Carbonic acid gas in bread rais- ing 118, 149 Carrot pudding 323 soup 279 Carrots 245 boiled 246 description 245 with egg sauce 246 preparation and cooking... 245 stewed 246 Casein 26 Catsup, tomato 415 Cauliflower, boiled 251 and broccoli 251 browned 252 description 251 preparation and cooking 251 scalloped 252 stewed 252 with tomato sauce 252 Celery 253 description 253 and pea croquettes 411 and potato hash 254 and protose salad 415 salad 253 sauce 352 sauce, cream 405 INDEX. 4Sd Celery soup 280 soup, white 286 stewed 253, 254 with tomato sauce 254 Cellars 70 Cereal roast 409 Cerealine flakes 103 Cereals and their preparation for the table 78 Charlotte, apple 321 chocolate 315 fruit 315 Cheese 376 cottage 377 digestibility 376 nutritive value 376 Chemistry of bread-making 116 Cherry 171 casserole 330 pudding 310 Chestnut 392 soup 280, 395 Chestnuts, baked 395 boiled 395 mashed 395 Chicken jelly, mock 315 salad, mock 415 Chili sauce, ideal 416 sauce, vegetarian 401 Chocolate charlotte 315 gelee 317 macaroons 330 mold 315 Citron 173 Cocoanut 391 cornstarch pudding 323 cream 394 crusts 418 custard 323 and custard blancmange... 303 flavor 298 pie 338, 339 rice custard 324 sauce 352 sauce, stewed potatoes in... 411 Cofifee, acorn 448 beet 360 caramel 360 cocoa, and chocolate 3S9 crust 450 parched grain 360 wheat, oats, and barley 361 Colander, for soup making 273 Color scheme for invalid's tray.. 427 Combination soup 277, 280 Condiments 29 and intoxicating drinks 31 Constipation, fruits in 444 Cookery 45 evils of bad 46 Cooking fruit, general sugges- tions 185 of grains 81 methods 49 Copper utensils 58 Cordial, fruit 361 Corn, baked 265 baked with zwieback 417 and bean soup 422 boiled green 265 Corn bread, cocoanut 398 bread, raised 146 cake 147 cakes 265 cakes, cream 159 canned 268 canned, and tomatoes 269 dodgers 158, 159 dressing, cocoanut 398 dried 266 flake gruel 432 flake porridge 440 flakes with fruit 440 flakes, with poached eggs. . . 440 flakes, toasted 440 hulled 103 meal 103 meal biscuits, browned 417 meal, browned 103 meal crust 337 490 INDEX. Corn meal cubes 103 meal and fig pudding 324 meal with fruit 103 meal gruel 431 meal pudding 324 and nuttolene 413 patties 419 peas, and beans, green 264 description 264 pudding 265, 414 pudding, nut 413 pulp, stewed 265 roasted green 265 soup, Miss B.'s Irish 277 soup, canned 279, 421 soup, green 281 stewed green 266 and tomatoes 261 varieties of 101 Cornstarch with apples. 303 blancmange 303 fruit mold 303, 304 meringue 324 pudding, cocoanut 323 pudding, plain 328 with raisins 303 Cottage cheese 377 cheese from buttermilk 377 cheese, nuttolene 406 cheese from sour milk 377 Crab apples, stewed 189 Cracked wheat pudding 324 Crackers, fruit 162 graham 162 Cranberries 190 and sweet apples 190 Cranberry '. 175 drink 449 pie 339 pudding sauce 353 Cream 370 almond 321, 436 cocoanut . . : 394 composition 370 Devonshire or clotted 377 Cream, digestibility as compared with butter 370 filling 337 fruit 353 mock 354 pie 339 prepared 319 rose 355 salad dressing 415 sauce 352 sauce, browned 352 scalding 372 or white sauce 351 whip withgranose flakes 326 Creamery 371 Crescents 145 Crisps, cocoanut 397 cream 161 Graham 161 nut 397 oatmeal -. 162 sugar 347 Croutons 276 Crust coffee 450 corn meal 337 granola 337 patties 403 Crusts, cocoanut 418 Cucumber, description 263 Cup cake, delicate 345 custard 325 Currant 175 salad 215 syrup 210 Currantade 450 Custard, almond cream cup 326 apple 320 apple cornstarch 321 banana 322 boiled 322 bread and fruit 322, 332 bread pudding 322 bread, steamed '. 333 caramel 323 cocoanut 323 INDEX. 491 Custard, cocoanut rice 324 cup 325 farina 32S fruit 32S gluten 447 gluten meal 447 lemon meringue 340 orange 327 pie, apple 338 pie, simple 342 pie, sweet-apple 343 plain 328 pudding, bread 322 pudding, rice 329 pudding, rice apple 329 pudding, sago 330 pudding, sago and fruit 330 pudding, general suggestions 319 recipes 320 sauce 353 sauce for cutlets 402 snowball 331 soft 447 steamed 330 tapioca 331 white 331, 332 Cymling, summer squash or vegetable marrow 258 description 258 preparation and cooking. . . . 258 Date 172 pudding 333 sandwich and walnut salad 215 Desserts 296 with crusts, recipes 317 made of fruit with grains, bread, etc., recipes 302 made with gelatine 313 general suggestions 297 and pudding, sauces for, rec- ipes 352 with tapioca, sago, manioca, find sea moss, recipes 309 Diabetic biscuit 452 Diet, simplicity in 32, 41 Digestion of foods 35 hygiene of 40 of a mouthful of bread 36 time required for 39 Digestive apparatus 35 fluids, other uses of 38 Dish closet, contents of 67 Dish-towel rack 74 Dish-washing sink 67 Double boiler 82 Dough 117 how to manipulate, in knead- ing 132 Drinking freely at meals 41 Drinks and delicacies for the sick 447 Drop cake 440 Drying fruit 211 Dumpling, rice 306 Eating between meals 41 hasty 40 and intemperance, relation between 288 when tired 42 too much 42 Egg cream 450 floated 446 granose flakes with 439 gruel 430 lemonade 450 plant 262 plant, baked 262 plant, description 262 plant, scalloped 262 sauce 352, 353 white of 447 white of, and milk 447 Eggs 380 composition of white and yolk 380 in cream 386 how to beat 383 how to choose 381 492 INDEX. Eggs, how to keep 382 in making desserts 297 a la Martin 388 poached 386 poached, on corn flakes 440 poached, with cream sauce.. 386 poached, on protose steak . . 401 poached in tomatoes 385 quickly prepared 386 raw 447 recipes 384 scrambled 386 in shell 384 for the sick, recipes 446 steamed 386, 447 in sunshine 385 tcEt for 381 use of, in batter breads 154 whirled 386 Evaporation 54 Farina 88, 89 blancmange 304 custard 325 with fig sauce 89 with fresh fruit 89 fruit mold 304 gruel 430 molded 89 pie 339 pudding 325 Fats 26 Fermentation, bread made light by 118 process of 118 Fermentative agents 120 Fevers, fruit in 443 Fibrin 26 Fig 176 and bread pudding 323 layer cake 345 pudding, barley 302 pudding, steamed 333 sandwich 425 and tapioca pudding 311 Filters 69 Fires, care of 48 making 48 Flavoring soups 273 Flavorings 298 Flaxseed tea 450 Floating island 325 Flour, deleterious adulterations of 115 gruel 430 how to select 113 to keep lis prepared, gruel of 431 Foamy sauce 353 Food elements 25 elements, carbonaceous 27 elements, deficiency of 43 elements, excess of 42 elements, inorganic 28 elements, nitrogenous 28 elements, uses of 27 proper amount of 42 purposes of 25, 426 for the sick 426 substances, nutritive value of 455 variety in 32 Foods, combinations of 28, 43 digestion of 35 French butter 378 Fried foods for breakfast 287 Fruit acids 442 and barley drink 449 beverage 361 and bread custard 332 cake 346 canning 193 charlotte 315 compote^ fresh 301 cooked 185 cordial 361 corn flakes with 440 cream 353 custard 325 dessert, granose 439 INDEX. 493 Fruit dessert, rice 306 desserts, recipes 299 drying 211 fresh, to keep 182 fresh, for the table 178 ices 211 jellies 204 juices 209 juices, germ-destroying prop- erties of 441 juices for the sick 448 loaf 142 loaf, Graham and whole- wheat flour 146 manioca with 312 meringues 305 mold 314 mold, cornstarch 303, 304 mold, farina 304 molded tapioca with 310 and nut pie 340 nutritive value of 443 pie, granose 439 pies 339 preservation of 192 pudding, plain, or Brown Betty 305 pudding, sago 312 pudding, stewed 308 recipes 206 and rice dessert 307 roll 142, 304 salads 212, 215 sandwich 315, 425 sauce 354 soup 424 soup in fevers 443 soup, Mrs. H.'s sago 277 soup, nut and grape-juice.. 423 syrup 210 tapioca 310 Fruits 164 as an aid to digestion 167 composition 164 description 168 Fruits as dessert 168 directions for serving 179 and grains for breakfast 288 a leading constituent of man's original bill of fare 441 for the sick 441, 448 small, dried 191 table of analysis of 166 unripe 165 Frumenty 293 Frying 53 Fuels 47 Furniture, kitchen 62 Gelatine, adulteration of 313 Gelee, chocolate 317 lemon 316 pineapple 316 Gem irons 152 Gems, almond meal 452 bean 160 blueberry 157 gluten meal 452 Graham 157 granola 159 hominy 158 oatmeal 159 rye 157 Sally Lunn 158 snow 159 Germs in milk 366, 368, 369 Gluten 26 cream 430 custard 447 gravy 352 gruel 430 gruel, peptonized 432 meal custard 447 meal gems 452 mush 437 mush, baked apples with 294, 438 olive omelet 388 and protose patties 406 soup 416 tomato 43? 494 INDEX. Gluten of wheat flour 117 Gofio 95 Gold and silver cake 345 Golden salad 416 Gooseberry 174 Graham apple porridge 90 bread 144 flour 113 gruel 430 porridge 90 porridge with dates 90 porridge, molded 90 porridge with nut meal 90 salt-rising bread 147 Grain coffee, parched 360 dressing, nut meal 397 Grains for breakfast 84 cooking of 81 an economical food 85 mixed 94 nutritive value of 78 in olden times 79 quantity of liquid required in cooking 82 for the sick, recipes 437 used by other nations 79 Graniteware 57 Granola, breakfast 91 crust 337 dry 293 fruit 91 peach 91 Granose biscuits 440 flakes 439 flakes, cream whip with 326 flakes, with egg 439 fruit dessert 439 fruit pie 439 shortcake 440 Granuto 438 . with almond or peanut cream 439 and apple pudding 326 and baked banana 439 cakes 438 and malted nuts gruel 439 Grape 174 beverage 361 cure 441 fruit 173 jelly pie 340 juice, or unfermented wine 209, 210 tart 338 Gravies and sauces 350 double boiler in preparing.. 351 Gravy, brown 405 gluten 352 pease 352 tomato 352 tomato cream 352 Gruel, arrowroot 429 barley 430 egg 430 farina 430 flour 430 gluten 430 Graham 430 granuto and malted nuts... 439 Indian meal 431 lemon oatmeal 431 milk' oatmeal 431 oatmeal 432 peptonized gluten 432 of prepared flour 431 raisin 432 toasted corn flakes 432 wheatose 431 Gruels 428 recipes 429 Gum arable water 450 Hamburger steak, mock 402 Handy waiter 72 Hash, browned 406 Hazelnut, filbert, and cobnut... 392 Hoe-cake 159, 452 Hominy, coarse 104 croquettes 404 fine, or grits 104 Household workshop 60 INDEX. 495 Ices, fruit 211 Icing for calces 345 Imperial roast and sauce 409 Infants, peptonized milk for 434 Inorganic elements 28 Intestinal digestion 38 Irish moss lemonade 451 Iron utensils 57 Jellies, fruit 204 Jelly, apple 314 apples in 314 cake 346 lemon 314 mock chicken 315 orange 314 Julienne soup 422 Junket, or milk curd 433 Kitchen brushes 75 conveniences 70 description 60 furniture 62 utensils 66 Kneading 56 the dough 131 table 74 Kornlet soup 281 and tomato soup 277 Koumiss 433 Left-over foods 453 Legumes 217 composition 217 suggestions for cooking 219 used by the ancients 218 Legumin 217 Lemon 173 drill 72 filling 338 gelee 316 jelly 314 juice, mediciual value of 445 meringue custard 340 Lemon pie 340 pudding 326 pudding sauce 354 sherbet 316 shortcake 318 syrup 210 Lemonade 362 barley 449 egg 450 hot 450 Irish moss 451 m ixed 362 pineapple 362 pink 362 plain 451 Lentil and bean patties 420 and chestnut soup 396 and corn soup 277 dressing 420 gravy with rice 226 meal 225 and nut loaf 397 and nut soup 423 and parsnip soup 282 patties 420 pur6e 226 and rice croquettes 411, 420 roast, Swiss 411 soup 282 soup, Swiss 278 and tomato soup 417, 422 Lentils 225 ancient use of 225 description 225 mashed with beans 226 with nuts 420 savory 420 Lettuce 257 and radish 256 description 256 Lima bean soup 282, 422 beans 267 beans, stewed 224 Lime 173 Liquid foods, broths, etc, recipes 434- 496 INDEX. Liquid, quantity of, in cooking grains 82 Liver digestion 39 Loaf cake 346 Loaves, size of 133 Macaroni baked with granola.. 107 with cream sauce 106 description IDS with egg sauce 106 eggs and 107 fruit 107 au gratin 413 home-made 106 how to select 105 with kornlet 294 with nuttolene 407 with pease gravy 419 to prepare and cook 106 with protose 408 pudding 326 with raisins 293 rice croquettes 404 soup 282 with tomato sauce 106 and tomato soup 421 Macaroons, chocolate 330 Maize or Indian corn, description 101 general suggestions for cook- ing 102 use of, in the South, also in Europe 101 Malted nuts 435 and granuto gruel 439 Manioca with fruit 312 mold, raspberry 312 Manna 439 Mastication 37 Mayonnaise dressing 414 Measuring 54 cups 127 Melon 176 Meltose 435 sauce 355 Menu, daily 453 Menu, make out ahead of time.. 454 planning 454 Meringue, cornstarch 324 peach 327 rice 305 Meringues, fruit 305 Metate, the 148 Mexico, condiments used in 30 Milk 364 absorbent properties of 367 adulteration 365 albuminized 433 almond 436, 448 analysis 364 baked 449 barley 449 bread with white flour 142 condensed 369 curd 433 diet 433 of diseased animals 365 hot 376, 433 and lime water 433 in making desserts 298 peptonized, for infants 434 porridge 431 preparations 433 shaken 378 to sterilize 368 and white of egg 447 Mince, nut, for pies 338 vegetable 338 Mineral elements in food 27 Mint sauce 401 Mixing materials 55 Molasses sauce 354 Mulberry 176 Mush, unwholesomeness of 79 Neatness and care in serving food to invalids 427 Nut and barley soup 423 butter 416 butter and nut cream, recipes 416 butter pufEs 417 INDEX. 407 Nut butter, as seasoning 416 butters, use of, as butter 398 corn pudding 413 cream 416 cream and nut butter, recipes 416 croquettes 404 cutlets 402 fillets 402 and fruit pie 340 and grape-juice fruit soup.. . 423 Irish stew 412 and lemon- juice broth 423 and lentil loaf 397 and lentil soup 423 Lisbon steak 401, 402 loaf 304 loaf broiled, pressed 408 loaf, savory 397 meal 394 meal grain dressing 397 milk 416 preparations 398 products with vegetables, recipes 411 pulp 394 and rice roast 406 and rice soup 423 and ripe olive soup 423 roast 409 sandwich 425 sauce 421 soup stock 421 sponge cake 348 steak in gravy 402 and tomato timbales 413 and vegetable roast 421 Nutritive value of common food substances 455 Nuts 389 composition and digestibility 390 cooking of 393 to keep them fresh 394 mastication of 389 and nut foods 389 nutritive value 389 Nuts, recipes 394 as substitutes for milk 369 Nuttolene 416 broiled 401 broiled, spinach on toast with 413 cottage cheese 406 and corn 413 a la creme 410 cutlets 402 fricassee 410 macaroni with 407 with mint sauce 401 pie with potato crust 410 and protose, escalloped po- tato with 411 and protose pie 4l0 and protose in shells 402 stewed 399 stewed, and protose with tomato 401 and tomato 399 Oakhill potato 412 Oat or avena, description 91 Oatmeal 94 with apple 95 blancmange 94 digestibility 93 drink 362 with fruit 94 gruel 432 gruel, lemon 431 gruel, milk 431 jellied 94 nutritive value 93 porridge 95 preparation and cooking 93 soup 282 value of, as food ■. 92 Oats, rolled 95 use of, among the ancients. . 91 Obesity, fruit in 443 Oil and gas stoves 65 Olive 171 and nut soup 423 498 INDEX. Olive sandwich 425 Olives with protose steak in tomato 402 Omelet, foam 387 gluten olive 388 plain 387 potato gluten 436 soft 388 Omelets, fancy 387 recipes 387 Onion 267 Onions, protose with 400 Orange 172 and banana 214 custard 327 dressing 213 float 327 fruit mold 314 jelly 314 and lemon flavor 299 pie 341 and pineapple 214 pudding 327 sauce 354 syrup 210 Orangeade 362, 451 Oranges and apples 190 toasted wheat flakes with . . . 438 Oven thermometer SO, 135 proper temperature of 134 temperature for aerated bread 153 Pan for rolls, perforated 152 Pantry 67 Parsnipsoup 282, 283 Parsnips 243 baked 244 boiled 244 browned 244 with cream sauce 244 creamed 244 description 243 with egg sauce 244 mashed 244 Parsnips with potatoes 245 preparation and cooking 243 stewed 245 stewed with celery 245 Pasta d' Italia 105 Paste for pies 336 for tart shells 337 Pastry and cake 333 why unwholesome 334 Pea and celery croquettes ... 411 , 420 soup, canned 416 soup, canned green 279 soup, cream 280 soup, dried 277 soup, green 281 soup, vegetable 278 and tomato soup 283, 422 Peas 220 and asparagus 255 baked savory 417 cakes 221 canned 269 description 220 dried green 222 mashed 221 pur6e 221 stewed 266 stewed, split 221 time required for cooking . . . 221 Pease gravy 352 gravy, macaroni with 419 patties 419 patties with tomato sauce . . . 419 Peach 170 and banana salad 214 cream 301 custard pie 341 meringue 327 mush 294 pie, one crust 341 salad 214 sandwich 316 sauce 355 sauce, evaporated 191 tapioca 311 INDEX. 499 Peaches, baked 190 plums, cherries, berries, stewed 189 pyramid of 305 Peanut butter 395 cream, granuto with 439 or groundnut 393 and tomato pur^e 396 Peanuts baked like beans 396 baked rich 396 baked, with tomato 396 to blanch 394 cooked 396 Pear 170, 445 Pears, baked 187, 189 dried 191 stewed 188 Pecan 393 Percolator holder 73 Picnic pudding 327 Pie, apple custard 338 cocoanut 338, 339 cranberry 339 cream 339 dried apple 339 dried apple, with raisins 339 dried apricot 339 farina 339 fruit and nut 340 granose fruit 439 grape jelly 340 lemon 340 mince 338 orange 341 peach custard 341 peach, one crust 341 protose and nuttolene 410 prune 341 pumpkin 342, 472 raised 319 simple custard 342 squash 342, 343 sweet-apple custard 343 sweet potato 343 Pies, fruit 339 paste for 336 Pies, general suggestions for mak- ing 334 recipes 336 Pignolias, baked 396 Pineapple 178, 445 beverage 362 cake 347 dressing 213 gelee 316 lemonade 362 mold 314 and orange sherbet 316 and peach salad 214 salad 214 tapioca 310 Pippins and quince 187 Plum 170 porridge 90 Pomegranate 174 Pop-corn pudding 330 Pop-overs 159 Popped corn 104 Porcelain ware 57 Porridge, milk 431 potato gluten 437 Sanitas 436 Potato 233 cakes 237 cakes with egg 237 and celery hash 254 crust, nuttolene pie with 410 description 233 meal omelet 436 meal porridge 437 meal pur^e 436 meal pur^e, savory 436 hash 240 delMonico cream roll 412 oakhill 412 preparation and cooking 234 and protose, casseroles of . . . 406 with protose and nuttolene, escalloped 411 protose roast with 408 protosed 413 500 INDEX. Potato puff 238 and rice soup 283 salad 415 sandwich 425 snowballs 237 soup 283 soup, Swiss 284 stew with protose 399, 412 Potatoes, baked 235 and beets 247 boiled in jackets 235 boiled without skins 235 broiled 238 browned 238 cracked 236 creamed 237 mashed 236 new 236 ornamental 238 roasted 235 scalloped 237 steamed 235 stewed 237 stewed with celery 237 stewed, in cocoanut sauce. . . 411 stuflfed 236, 412 warmed-over 238 Principles of cookery 47 Protose, baked 403 basted 403 braized 403 broiled 401 broth 435, 464 and celery salad 415 croquettes 404 cutlets 402 escalloped 404 fish 405 fricassee of 400 and granola, baked 409 and gluten patties 406 and granose croquettes 404 with green vegetables 411 hash 409 loai , pressed 408 Protose, macaroni with 408 with mashed potato border or roses 412 minced 401 and nuttolene, escalloped po- tato with 411 and nuttolene pie 410 and nuttolene, recipes 399 and nuttolene in shells 402 with onions 400 patties 406, 407 and potato, casseroles of 406 potato stew with 399, 412 and rice, casserole of 404 and rice croquettes 404 roast 406, 407 roast with brown gravy 408 roast with potato 408 roast with tomato sauce 408 salad 414 sandwich 425 simmered 399 soup 422 steak, poached egg on 401 steak in tomato with ripe olives 402 stew 399 stew or ragout of 400 stew with rice 400 stew, savory 400 stewed 399 stewed, and mashed beans. 401 stewed, with roasted rice... 400 stewed, with tomato 399 stuffed 405 stuffed, with brown gravy.. 405 stuffed, with vegetable oys- ters 405 timbales 406 with tomato and stewed nut- tolene 401 or vegetable meat 398 Protosed potato 413 Prune 171 dessert 301 INDEX. 501 Prune marmalade 191 pie 341 pudding 305 and tapioca pudding 310 whip 328 Prunes ." 191 Pudding, almond cornstarch 321 baked apple 302 batter 332 carrot 323 cherry 310 corn 265 cornstarch 328 cracked wheat 324 date 333 farina 325 fig, steamed 333 fruit 305 granuto and apple 326 ground rice 326 layer 316 lemon 326 macaroni 326 orange 327 picnic 327 pop-corn 330 prune 305, 328 rice cream 306 rice and tapioca 307 sago 312 sauce, plain 355 sauce, red 355 snow 329 stewed fruit 308 strawberiy minute 308 sweet apple 308 tomato 262 vermicelli 331 wheatose 325 whortleberry 309 Puddings, steamed 332 Puflfs, corn 158 currant 157 Graham 156 Graham water 157 31 Puffs, nut butter 417 rye 157 whole-wheat 156 Pumpkins 259 baked 260 canned 269 description 259 dried 260 pie 342 stewed 260 Pur6e 271 peanut and tomato 396 potato gluten 436 potato gluten, savory 436 Quince 170 dressing 213 Quinces, baked 187 Radishes 256, 257 Raisin gruel 432 Raisins or currants, to prepare.. 298 stewed 190 Raspberry 176 manioca mold 312 salad 213 Red salad 415 sauce 355 Refrigerator 68 Rheumatism, fruit in 442 Ribbon sandwich 424 Rice, apple custard pudding 329 balls 333 boiled 99 browned 100 cream pudding 306 custard, cocoanut 324 custard pudding 329 description 97 dumpling 306 with eggs 329 with fig sauce 99 fruit dessert 306 and fruit dessert 307 and lentil croquettes... 411, 420 502 INEEX. Rice, lentil gravy with 226 macaroni croquettes 404 meringue 305 mold, red 307 molded, or snowballs 327 and nut roast 406 and nut soup 423 orange 100 with peaches 100 preparation and cooking 99 and protose, casserole of 404 and protose croquettes 404 protose stew with 400 pudding, ground 326 pudding with raisins 306 with raisins 100 roasted 294 roasted, stewed protose with 400 snow 329 snow with jelly 329 snowball 306 soup, plain 283 starch in 98 steamed 99 and stewed apple dessert. . . . 307 and strawberry dessert 308 and tapioca pudding 307 used by the Chinese 97 water 432 Rice-flour mold 307 Roast, cereal 409 imperial 409 nut 409 nut and vegetable 421 protose 406, 407 Swiss lentil 411 vegetable 409, 421 vegetarian 406, 411 Roasting 49 Rolls US breakfast 160 corn mush 160 cream Graham 160 cream mush 161 French US Rolls, fruit 161 imperial 145 nut 397 Parker house 145 Rose cream 355 Rye, description 100 mush 101 rolled 101 use of, in Europe 100 Sago apple pudding 311 custard pudding 330 and fruit custard pudding.. 330 fruit pudding 312 mold, red 311 and potato soup 284 pudding 312 sauce 355 tapioca and other farinaceous substances for the sick 448 Salad, beet 248 cabbage 250 celery 253 dressing. Miss B. 's sweet 213 dressing, cream 215, 415, 471 golden 416 mock chicken 415 potato 415 protose 414, 415 protose and celery 415 red 415 tomato 261 Salads, fruit 212, 471 Salivary digestion 37 Salsify, or vegetable oyster 263 description 263 preparation and cooking 263 Samp lOJ Sandwich, Calcutta 425 fig 425 fruit 425 huUess bean 425 nut 425 olive 425 potato 425 INDEX. S03 Sandwich, protose 425 ribbon 424 sweet 425 Sandwiches, recipes 424 Sanitas porridge 436 vegetable gelatine 314 Sauce, almond cream 355 brown 3S1, 403, 466 browned cream 352 celery 352 cocoanut 352 cranberry pudding 353 cream 352 cream celery 405 cream or white 351 custard 353 custard for cutlets 402 egg 352, 353 foamy 353 fruit 354 imperial 409 lemon pudding 354 meltose 355 mint 401 molasses 354 nut 421 for nuttolene a la creme 410 orange 354 peach 355 plain pudding 355 sago 355 whipped cream 355 Sauces and gravies 350 Scientific cookery, principles of. 47 Scotch broth 284 and oatmeal 91 Sea moss blancmange 312 Sea-kale 256 description 256 Shaken milk 378 Sherbet 362 lemon 316 pineapple and orange 316 Shortcake, fruit 318 granose 440 Sick, food for 426 refreshing drinks and delica- cies for 447 Sink, care of 64 Slippery elm tea 451 Snow balls 327 pudding 329 Snowball, custard 331 rice 306 Soup, asparagus 278, 423 Miss B.'s Irish corn 277 baked bean 276 bean and corn 278 bean and hominy 279 bean and potato 279 bean and tomato 276 black bean 276 brown 279 canned corn 279, 421 canned green pea 279 canned pea 416 carrot 279 celery 280 chestnut ; . . 280, 396 combination 277, 280 corn and bean 422 cream of almond 421 cream barley 281 cream pea 280 dried pea 277 fruit 424, 465 gluten .- 416 green bean 281 green corn 281 green pea 281 Mrs. H.'s sago fruit 277 Juilienne 422 kornlet 281 kornlet and tomato 277 lentil 282 lentil and chestnut 396 lentil and corn 277 lentil and parsnip 282 lentil and tomato 417, 422 lima bean 282, 4.22 :o4 INDEX. Soup, macaroni 282 nut and barley 423 nut and grape-juice fruit 423 nut and lentil 423 nut and rice 423 oatmeal 282 parsnip 282, 283 pea and tomato 283, 422 plain rice 283 potato 283 potato and rice 283 protose 422 sago and potato 284 stock, recipes 421 strainer, Chinese 273 sweet potato 284 Swiss lentil 278 Swiss potato 284 tomato cream 284 tomato and macaroni.. 278, 421 tomato and okra 285 tomato with vermicelli 285 vegetable 278, 285 vegetable oyster 285 vegetable pea 278 velvet 286 vermicelli 286 white celery 286 Soups 271 from grain and legumes, 272, 275 from left-overs 275 nutritive value 274 Sowens 93 Spaghetti 105 Spanish stew 412 Spices, taste for 32 Spinach 252 description 252 preparation and cooking 252 souffl6 414 on toast with broiled nutto- lene 413 Sponge cake 347 cake, Mrs. N.'s white 348 cake, nut 348 Sponge cake, simple 346 when to set 127 Squash, baked 259 canned 269 with egg sauce 258 mashed 258 pie 342, 343 preparation and cooking.... 259 steamed 259 stewed 258 summer 258 winter 259 Starch 26 Steak, mock Hamburger 402 nut,