■■a F 841 U59 + W^^^'T^^y/^MU^h-: , 1 ' V ,1'' •^ Date Due NmLiiM9«^ ^ Cornell University Library Preliminary Ji^Jriiin j|,,r '" "•" ""' '"" '"» »""" : olin The original of this booW is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://archive.org/details/cu31924028917859 PRELIMINARY REPORT CONCKKNING EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS PRINCIPALI-y IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. PROSECUTED IN ACCORDANCE WITH PARAGRAPH 2, SPECIAL ORDERS No. 109, WAR DEPARTMENT, MARCH 18, 1871, AND LETTER OF INSTRUCTIONS OF MARCH 23, 1871, BRIGADIER GENERAL A. A. HUMPHREYS, CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. CONDUCTED UNDEE THE IMMEDIATE DIRECTION OF 1st Lieut. GBOEGE M. WHEBLEJR, Corps of Engineers. Jt0^' 1871. WASHINGTON:^ GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, 18 7 2. CORN UNSVERSSTY Cj^' 'f In the Senate of thk United States, Maxj 2, 1872. liesolved, That uinehuudrecl and lifty acUUtiouiil copies of the "Eeoonutiissaace of Arizona and Nevada" be printed iu quarto form and bound ; four hundred and fifty copies of which shall be for the use of the Senate, and five hundred for distribution by the Chief of Engineers, United States Army. Attest : GEO. C. GOEHAM, Secretary. In the Senate of the United States, May 28, 1872. The following resolution, passed by the Senate Jlay 2, 187i, was concurred in by the House of Representatives, May 27, 1872. Resolved, By tlie Senate, (the House of Representatives concurring,) that four thousand additional copies of the "Reconnaissance of Arizona and Nevada" be printed in quarto form and bound: one thousand copies of which shall be for the use of the Senate, two thousand seven hundred and fifty copies for the use of the House of Representatives, and two hundred and fifty copies for distribution by the Chief of Engineers, United States Army. Attest : GEO. C. GORHAM, Secretary. TABLE OF COITEITS. Page. Officers of the expedition 12-13 Escort 13 United States Naval Observatory 13 Western Union Telegraph Company 13 United States Lake Survey 13 Instruments 13 Letter of Secretary of War 5 Chief of Engineers 7 Lieutenant Wheeler 9 Introduction 11 Letter of instructions 11 Co-operation of the Supply Departments of the Army. 12 Medical Department of the Army . 12 CHAPTER I. Organization of expedition 15 From Rendezvous No. 5, Trnxton Springs, to Rendez From Rendezvous No. 1, Halleok Station, Nevada, to Rendezvous No. 2, near Belmont, Nevada 15 From Rendezvous No. 2, Belmont, to Rendezvous No. 3, at Camp Independence, California 15 From Rendezvous No. 3, Camp Independence, Cali- fornia, to Rendezvous No. 4, at Cottonwood Springs, Nevada 16 From Rendezvous No. 4, Cottonwood Springs, to Ren- dezvous No. 5, at Tnixton Springs, Arizona 17 CHAPTER II vous No. 6, at Presoott, Arizona 18 From Rendezvous No. 6, Presoott, Arizona Territory, to Rendezvous No. 7, at Camp Apache, Arizona 19 Prom Rendezvous No. 7, Camp Apache, Arizona, to s Rendezvous No. 8, Camp Lowell, Tucson, Arizona Territory 19 Extent of reconnaissance line 19 Area traversed 19 Cost of survey, etc 19 Astronomical 21 Topographical 21 Physico-geographical 22 Meteorological .'. 24 Geological 24 - Natural history 25 Mineralogy 25 Magnetic observations 25 Photographs 25 Means of communication 25 Indians 27 Sites for military posts 29 Influence of climate 30 Agricultural and grazing lands 31 Mines 32 List of mining questions 32 MlJ^^ma DISTRICTS. Bull-Run and Cope districts, Nevada 34 Lone Mountain district, Nevada 35 Tuscarora and Railroad districts, Nevada 35 Mineral HiU district, Nevada 35 Diamond and Racine districts, Nevada 36 Eureka district, Nevada 37 Sierra or Secret Canon district, Nevada .37 Pinto district, Nevada 37 Morey district, Nevada 38 White Pine and Spring Valley districts, Nevada 39 Antelope district, Nevada 39 Hot Creek and Empire districts, Nevada 39 Rattlesnake Canon district, Nevada 39 Tyboe and Battle Mountain districts, Nevada. » 40 Yankee Blade and Reese River districts, Nevada 40 Kingston district, Nevada 41 North Twin River district, Nevada 41 Twin River and Jefferson districts, Nevada 41 Manhattan and Mountain Chief districts, Nevada 41 Silver Bend district, Nevada 41 Reveille district, Nevada 42 Freiberg district, Nevada 42 Ely district, Nevada 42 Highland district, Nevada , 43 Blind Mountain district, Nevada 43 Cedar district, Nevada 43 Pahranagat Lake district, Nevada 43 Tim-pah-ute district, Nevada 44 Groom district, Nevada 44 Southeastern district, Nevada 4r) TABLE OF CONTENTS. Waucova district, California 45 San Antonio district, Nevada 45 Montezuma district, Nevada 46 Blind Spring district, California 46 Alida district, Nevada 47 Gold Mountain district, Nevada 47 Palmetto district, Nevada 47 Green Mountain district, Nevada 47 Columbus district, Nevada 48 Oneata district, California 48 Montgomery district, California 48 Silver Peak and Red Mountain districts, Nevada 48 Deep Spring Valley district, California 49 Fish Spring district, California 50 Kearsarge district, California 50 San Carlos district, California 50 Lone Pine district, California 50 Coso district, California 51 Granite Mountain district, California 51 Telescope district, California 52 Lyons district, California 52 Death Valley district, California 52 Page. El Paso district, California 52 Amargosa district, California 52 Timber Mountain district, Nevada 52 Yellow Pine district, Nevada 52 Clarke district 53 New York district, Nevada and California 53 Hualpais district, Arizona 53 Maynard district, Arizona 54 Tiger district, Arizona 54 Pine Grove district, Arizona 55 Bradshaw district, Arizona 55 Turkey Creek district, Arizona 55 Weaver district, Arizona 55 Walnut Grove district, Aiizona 55 Hassyampa district, Arizona 56 Martinez district, Arizona , 56 Santa Maria district, Arizona 56 Vulture Mine, Arizona 56 Mines in Pinal Mountains, Arizona 56 Maps 59 Conclusion 60 Territory yet to be surveyed 61 APPENDIX A. Report of Daniel W. Lookwood, First Lieutenant of Engineers g2 From Truxton Springs to Prescott, Arizona 67 From Prescott to Camp Apache, Arizona 68 Agricultural lands 70 Grazing lands 7]^ Woodlands 72 Mineral lands and mines •. . 72 Natural history 73 Geology 73 Meteorology 73 Means of communication, routes for roads, &c 74 Indians 74 APPENDIX B Report of Second Lieutenant D. A. Lyle, Second United States Artillery 7g From Belmont, Nevada, to Camp Independence, Cali- fornia »- From Camp Independence to Gold Mountain and return 80 From Camp Independence to Cottonwood Springs, Nevada g„ From Cottonwood Springs to Saint Thomas, Nevada. 85 From Saint George, Utah, to the Crossing of the Col- orado 85 From Truxton Springe to Prescott, Arizona Territory, via Camp Date Creek and Bradshaw Mountains . . .' 86 From Prescott, Arizona Territory, to Tucson, Arizona Territory, via Camp Apache Recapitulation Valleys Mountains Indians Agricultural lands Grazing lands Mining districts Means of communication Remarks APPENDIX C Report of Assistant Edward P. Austin g^ Carlin, Nevada q^ Battle Mountain, Nevada q, Austin, Nevada Camp Independence, California . Salt Lake City Probable character of results . . . . Report of Assistant G. K. Gilbert. .. 91 APPENDIX D. 87 88 80 89 89 90 90 91 91 92 92 War Department, April 19, 1872. The Secretary of War has the honor to trausmit to the United States Senate a preliminary re- port of Lieutenant George M. Wheeler, Corps of Engineers, of the progress of the engineer explora- tion of the public domain in Nevada and Arizona, which, it is believed, will satisfactorily meet the request contained in the Senate resolution of the 7th ultimo, and to invite the attention of that body to the estimate of funds necessary for the continuance of the work, embraced in the letter of the Chief of Engineers forwarding the report, for which purpose no provision was made in the reg- ular estimate for appropriations heretofore made to Congress. WM. W. BELKKAP, Secretary of War. Office of the Chief of Engineers, Washington, B. C, April 18, 1872. Sir: In compliance with the followiug resolution of the Senate of the United States, "That the Secretary of War be requested to communicate, for the information of the Senate, a report showing the present condition of the explorations now being conducted under the direction of the Engineer Department, (in Nevada and Arizona,) and in the immediate charge of Lieutenant George M. Wheeler, Corps of Engineers," I have the honor to submit herewith a preliminary report from Lieutenant Wheeler, which, it is believed, will furnish all the information contemplated in the res- olution. The preliminary topographical map referred to in the report has just been completed, and two copies are transmitted herewith. I desire to invite attention to the extent of country in the interior that has not yet been explored instrumentally, and to recommend to favorable consideration the project and estimate submitted by Lieutenant Wheeler for continuing the exploration of these unknown areas. For the next season's work the sum of $75,000 is necessary. The early mapping of this region will be of great service not only for governmental purposes, but in furnishing Information eagerly sought for by those interested in -mining and other industrial pursuits. Yery respectfully, your obedient servant, A. A. HUMPHREYS, Brigadier General and Chief of Engineers, Hon. Wm. W. Belknap, Secretary of War. PRELIMINARY REPORT ov EXPLORATMS IN SEYADA ASD AEIZOM. By GEO. M. WHEELEll, First Lieutenant Corps of Engineers. United States ENaiNEEE Oefice, (Explorations in Nevada and Arizona,) Washington, D. (7., March 19, 1872. General : I have the houor to forward, iu acknowledgment of your communication of the 12th instant, a preliminary report, with appendices, presenting, so far as circumstances will permit, such of the results relating to the explorations of the past season, (as are liable to be soonest needed,) and explanations regarding the present condition of our labors, thinking that this will in the best manner satisfy the spirit of the resolution of. the Senate of the 8th instant, a copy ot which you inclose. It will also supply, in a measure, the part of a more detailed annual report, that should have been forwarded from the field only for the great urgency of other duties ; and your attention is called to some of the suggestions in favor of a continuance of explorations in the field of our western territory, and to the estimates presented. A preliminary topographical map, now nearly completed, will be forwarded at the earliest opportunity. All of which is respectfully submitted. GEO. M. WHEELEE, .First Lieutenant, Corps of Engineers, in charge of Explorations in Nevada and Arizona. Brigadier General A. A. Humphreys, Chief of Engineers U. 8. Army, Washington, D. C. INTRODUCTION. In presenting this preliminary report, it has been deemed advisable to divide it into two sepa- rate parts, the first giving the localities included in the survey, some general details, and an average of the cost, based upon the area traversed; the second giving, as plainly as circumstances permit, the present condition.of the results from this work. Tlie following are copies of the special orders from the War Department : Special Orders ) War Dei'autmknt, Adjutant General's Office, No. 109.— Extract. S Washington, March 18, 1871. 2. Upon the recommendation of the Chief of Engineers, 1st Lieutenant George M. Wheeler, Cori^s of Engineers, is hereby assigned to the charge of the exploration, under the direction of the Chief of Engineers, of those portions of the United States territory lying south of the Central Pacific Eailroad, embracing parts of Eastern Nevada and Arizona. The Quartermaster General will, in addition to the transportation and supply of the escort, procure the necessary animals and forage them en route. He will furnish transportation from the East to San Francisco, and thence to the field, for the civilian assistants of Lieutenant Wheeler, and the subsistence stores, instruments, &c. The Commissary General of Subsistence will furnish the necessary rations and auti-soorbutics for the party. The Surgeon General will furnish one medical officer and two hospital stewards, and the necessary medical stores. The Chief of Ordnance will supply horse equipments, arms, and ammunition at such points as may be necessary. By order of the Secretary of War : E. D. TOWNSEND, Adjutant General. Special Orders I Headquauteks of the Akmv, Adjutant General's Office, No. 110.— Extract. ^ • Washington, March 18, 1871. # * ^ « jt # * ^ 2. The Commanding General .Military Division of the Pacific will furnish proper escort to the exploration party referred to in Special Orders No. 109, of this date, from the War Department, for the exploration of those portions of the United States territory lying south of the Central Pacific Railroad, embracing points of Eastern Nevada and Arizona. By command of General Sherman ; E. D. TOWNSEND, Adjutant General. The general plan to be pursued was indicated in the letter of instructions of the Chief of Engineers, dated March 23, 1871, and was only modified as imperative circumstances required. The following is a copy of the letter of instructions mentioned : ■ Office of the Chief of Engineers, Washington, D. C, March 23, 1871. Sir: The Secretary of War, in his orders of March 18, 1871, a copy of which has been furnished you, has assigned you to the charge of the exploration, under the direction of the Chief of Engineers, of those portions of the United States territory lying south of the Central Pacific Railroad, embracing parts of Eastern Nevada and Arizona. The main object of this exploration will ho to obtain correct topographical knowledge of the country traversed by your parties, and to prepare accurate maps of that section. In making this the main object, it is at the same time intended that you ascertain as far as practicable everything relating to the physical features of the country, the num- bers, habits, and disposition of the Indians who may live in this section, the selection of such sites as may be of use for future military operations or oooupation, and the facilities offered for making rail or common roads, to meet the wantg pf |.hose who fit soine fiiture period mfl'V occupy ov tra. verse tltis part of our territory, 12 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. In aecertaimi,g the physical features, your attention is particnlarly called to th. mineral resources that may be discovered, and, where the indications would seem to justify it, you should have ^inute and detailed examinationr, made of the locality and character of the deposits. The influence of climate, the geological formations, character and kinds of vegetation, its probable value for agri- cultural and grazing purposes, relative proportions of woodland, water, and other qualities, which afifect its value for the settler, should be carefully observed. The latitude and longitude of as many as possible of the important points should be accurately determined, and in order to assist you in this, it is suggested that you make arrangements with the ofBcers in charge of the United States Lake Survey and United States Naval Observatory, so as to determine by telegraph the longitude of those points nearest your field of labor, with which your field-work can be connected. To accomplish these objects most efleotually, you will divide your expedition into two parts, and have both parties start from points to the west of Elko Station, proceeding in a southerly direction ; meet at oi-near Belmont ; following the same plan and direction leaving Belmont, meet at Camp Independence, iu California. Leaving Camp Independence, following a southeasterly direction, they will meet at or near Stump Springs, on the old Salt Lake road. Upon arriving at this point, you will organize a party to goto Fort Mohave, and using the boats already stored there, make an exami- nation of the Colorado River as far as the crossing of the old Santa Fe trail, where they will be met by the main expe- dition. The boat party will continue to examine the Colorado River, as far as practicable, while the main party will camp at Peacock's Spring. Leaving Peacock's Spring after the junction of the parties, the expedition will divide as before ; diverging from this station, will come together at Prescott, Arizona Territory. Hence making an examination of the country on both sides of the San Francisco Mountains, when the field-labor may be terminated. The following places are designated as convenient for depots, viz : Camp Independence, California ; Camps Mohave, Hualapais, Whipple, and Apache, in Arizona ; and Camps Wingate and Bayard, in Now Mexico. You will use your own judgment in modifying the plau proposed iu the event of any unforeseen circumstances or physical obstacles preventing an adherence to it. To aid yon in the discharge of these duties, Lieutenant D. W. Lockwood, of the Corps of Kugineers, has been ordered to report to you, and you are authorized to employ ten assistants as topographers, geologists, naturalists, &c., at salaries already authorized from this office iu letters of previous date ; also, the necessary number of packers, guides, and laborers, to complete your party. The whole number of civilian employes not to exceed thirty in number. You will procure your assistants, employes, equipments, supplies, &,c., at those points which seem to insure the most econom- ical and effective organization for the party, and are authorized to pay their actual transportation to and from, and to subsist them while in, the field. You will make requisition on this office for such instruments as you may require, and are authorized to purchase one spring-wagon for transporting the astronomical instruments, sextants, chronometers, and magnetic instruments for the use of the expedition. All necessary transportation, provisions, supplies, &c., which you cannot obtain from the supply departments of the Army, and books, stationery, and drawing materials, will be paid for from the funds in your hands. You will communicate with this ofBoe as often as the means of communication will allow, forwardiug the usual reports and returns required by the regulations, and such other reports as will keep this office apprised of your move- ments, aud the progress of the expedition under your charge. The sum of |50,000 has been set apart to meet your expenses until June 30, 1872, and you are particularly requested to be economical in your dislursements, and under no circumstances to exceed this amount. On the completion of your field duty you will dispose of the public property in your charge, discharge such assistants and employ^ of your party for whom you have no further need, and. return to Washington to make your report and prepare the necessary maps. ' Very respectfully, your obedient servant. Lieutenant George M. Wheelei;, Corps of Engineers, Washinijton, D. C. A. A. HUMPHREYS, Brigadier General, and Chief of JEnginctrs. In accordance with telegraphic orders from the War Department, dated March 11, and as men- tioned m letter of instructions from the Chief of Engineers of March 23, 1871, Lieutenant D. W. Lockwood, Corps of Engineers, was to have assisted in the performance of the duties of the exploration; but, owing to some misapprehension on the part of the commanding officer of the EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND AEIZONA. 13 department in which Lieutenant Lockwood was serving, he was not able to enter upon his labors until early in August. This single matter, because of the incident vexatious delays occasioned by the multiple nature of the duties thrust upon my shoulders, was the reason for the loss of nearly one month in time before the parties could be said to have fairly organized for systematic work. This caused serious inconvenience through the entire season, and it often seemed almost certain that, in consequence, the entire field of the labor projected could not be finished prior to the setting in of the winter. Second Lieutenant .D. A. Lyle, Second United States Artillery, who had been serving with his company in Alaska, was, at my request, ordered to join the expedition, but was unable to reach any of the rendezvous camps until that one established at Belmont, Nevada, a little prior to July 1, when he was at once placed in charge of main party No. 2 and the escort. He performed this latter duty until the close of the season's operations, and in many ways allied himself with the professional undertakings of the exploration. The Medical Department was to furnish one surgeon and two hospital stewards. These persons came from the Military Division of the Pacific, and were as follows : Acting Assistant Surgeon A. H. Cochrane ; Hospital Stewards Frank Hecox and T. V. Brown, the latter joining the command at Halleck Station, Nevada. Subsequently, Acting Assistant Surgeon Walter J. Hoffman reported at Carlin, Nevada, having been appointed by the honorable Secretary of AVar at the instance of Professor S. P. Baird, of the Smithsonian Institution, and upon the recommendation of the Surgeon General. He was at once placed in charge of the departments of mineralogy and natural history. Dr. Cochrane performed the duties of " surgeon to the expedition," while the two hospital stewards accomplished excellent services as meteorological observers. The areas intended to be examined were entirely, with the exceiitiou of certain small sections, in Southwestern Utah, within the limits of the Military Division of the Pacific, and the furnishing of the escort was effected through the commanding general, whose kindness in this as well as in all matters relating to the supplies and furthering the objects of the expedition was constantly evinced. The permanent escort that continued with the expedition until its termination came from Troop I, Third United States Cavalry, and consisted of two sergeants, four corijorals, and twenty-six privates, then serving in the Department of California, Brigadier General E. O. C. Ord commanding, to whom, for his generous aid and counsel at this time, as well as at all others, I feel especially grateful. Other temporary escorts were obtained from several of the posts in Arizona, and Lieutenant Colonel George Crook, commanding this department at the time of our entering its limits, was very kind in authorizing the facilities asked for in our informal requisitions. No lieutenant of cavalry was available to be placed in charge of the escort, as the troops of the Third Cavalry at Camp Halleck were about changing for a southern station. This resulted in no serious inconvenience, as this escort, except for the very few days spent at rendezvous camps, were always divided into two, and often into as many as four parts. In the matter of the deter- mination of the main astronomical stations, especially fruitful assistance Avas furnished on the part of the officers in charge of the United States Naval Observatory, the United States Lake Survey, and by the officers and certain operators of the Western Union Telegraph Company. I would particularly express my sense of obligation to Admiral Sands, of the United States Naval Observatory, whose active co operation secured to me the services of Professor J. R. Eastman at the observatory in Washington ; to General C. B. Comstock, of the United States Lake Survey, who allowed Civilian Assistant O. B. Wheeler to perform similar service at the observatory at Detroit ; to Mr. Orton, president, Messrs. Stager, Tinker, and Ladd, respectively, managers at Chicago, Washington, and San Francisco, of the Western Union Telegraph Company, as well as 14 EXPLOEATIOjST in NEVADA AND ARIZONA. to Brigham Yoaug, prewideut of the Mormon Ghurcb, Salt Lake City, Utah, who, tlirough the interventiou of Hon. William H. Hooper, tendered the use of the Mormon telegraph from that point to Saint George, Utah. It requires but a hasty examination to conclude that the elements placed at i>iy disposal were varied and complete, none too many, however, for the wants of an expedition to operate in so severe a section of country for such a length of time. For the full cooperation of the supply departments of the Army too many thanks cannot bo rendered. It would have been impossible, with the means placed at my disposal by the Engineer Department, to have conducted an expedition of such magnitude over so great a range of country within the limited time of one season, except for this very solid and generous assistance. It shall be among my endeavors to show that this has not been illy merited, and ask that reference be made to some of the succeeding images for a hasty summary of most of the results that have been so far accomplished. It is with the greatest difficulty that these can be made to seem not meager, since memory has to furnish so much material in the writing of this report, at a time when, the majority of the notes are en route, or rather blockaded, upon the Union Pacific Eailroad. To the many ofiicers in com- mand of n.ilitary posts along our route, as well as quartermasters and commissaries, to very many gentlemen, superintendents of mines and residents of the mining districts, to various State, terri- torial, and county ofacials, to members of the public press, contiguous to areas of the exploration, and to various private citizens and others who have extended cordial aid and sympathy to the work allotted to my care, I desire to express my thanks, as well as those of several of the members of the expedition. EXPLOEATIOX IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 15 CHAPTER I. The first principal rendezvous at Halleck Station, Nevada, on tbe Central Pacific Railroad, Avas established on the 3d of May, and the forces of the expedition were assembled entire within a few daj's, consisting, in addition to those already mentioned, as follows: Belonging to the engineer assistants and employes there were four topographers, one assistant surveyor, one assistant astronomical observer and computer, one chief geologist, one meteorologist, two collectors in natural history, one pliotographer, and guides, packers, laborers, &c., numbering thirty in all, which number was increased to thirty-one on the 1st of July Ly the addition of an assistant astronomical observer and assistant geologist; as qnartermaster's emp]oy(fs, including cliief packers, cargadores, guides, &c., fifteen. The transportation was as follows: On-e fifty-innle pack-train, one forty-mule pack-train, one instrument wagon, and two instrument-carts, two odometer vehicles, and riding- animals for officers, civilian assistants, and employes, as well as the escort. While waiting at Halleck Station, all the available time of the assistants was spent in journeys and examinations among the adjacent mountains within a radius from twelve to fourteen miles. RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 1, AT HALLECK STATION, NEVADA, TO RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 2, NEAR BELMONT, NEVADA, The Entire expedition moved to Carlin, Nevada, at which point the first main astronomical .station was to be established. A side party was here organized for work to the north and west- ward, and principally outside the zone traversed by the parties of the fortieth parallel survey. This party was to converge upon the remainder of main party No. 2, at Battle Mountain. Nevada, which had been sent there to establish a temporary camp at the commencement of that line. Main party No. 1 cut loose from the railroad about June 1, and passed to the southward, through Mineral Hill, Eureka, and Morey districts, to Belmont, about seven miles from which place tlie second rendezvous canip was established. Two side topograpliical parties detoured from this line, coming in upon tlie main line succes- sively at Eureka and Morey, visiting many mining districts and gaining valuable topographical and allied information. Main party No. 2, in charge of Acting Assistant Surgeon A. H. Cochrane, mo^'ing to the south, passed through Battle Mountain district, reaching Austin, as the first important point of any size. Side parties carried hasty examinations along the Toyabe Range and on either side of tlie Monitor Range. The complete rendezvous near Belmont was accomplished on June 24a The field of operations thus far was entirely confined to Nevada. RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 2, NEAR BELMONT, NEVADA, TO RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 3, AT CAMP INDEPENDENCE, CALIFORNIA. The interval of time here included is a little more than thirty days. The examinations were over areas in both Nevada and California. Main party No. 2, in charge of Lieutenant Lyle, operated to the south and west, impinging with one side party constantly employed upon the very desert and little-known area to the south and southwest from Belmont, which is a portion of that large tract in Southwestern Nevada hitherto unexplored. I beg leave to append the report presented by this oflicer, marked Appendix B. Main party No. 1, with two side parties constantly engaged, moved to the soutli and east, reaching Pahranagat Valley for supplies prior to the direct 1 6 EXPLOEATION IX XEVADA AND AEIZONA. march thence in nearly a due line toward Camp Independence, over one of the most desolate regions upon the face of the earth, and amid the scenes of disaster of those early emigrant trains who are accredited with having perished in " Death Yalley." This entire section is known in common parlance among the settlers of the mining and mountain towns of Nevada as " Death Valley," while the "Death Valley proper" should be limited to that remarkable depression which, at its lowest surface, falls beneath the level of the ocean, and which lies principally in California. It was thought at first that it would be impracticable to make this march with the entire train, and that it would be necessary to surround this desert section in traveling along lines partially known, and entering it at certain points with parties numbering not more than five or six. It was almost impossible to gain any accurate information of even the chances for grass and water from either white man or Indian, the erratic wanderings of the latter having scarcely reached a day's march from their own wick-e-ups. A party was dispatched to the southward, toward the Colorado, to establish a supply camp somewhere along Spring Mountain Eange, upon which to converge, after the parties should have again crossed the " Death Valley," in their outward journey from Camp Independence. This arrangement proved most fortiiitous. On the 23d of July, the rest of the main party were all together at Faquinta Springs, north and west from Tim-pah-ute Peak, with the desert stretching out along our western horizon. The objective point was a place since called Oasis Valley, known at the time to be sensibly to our westward, and containing good grass and water. This locality was reached after three days of the most severe marching, and was found to be a narrow valley, surrounded by low rolling mesas, from which broke, in many places, a largg number of springs_of good, clear water, but of varying thermal conditions. V\^e remained here until joined by a messenger from Lieutenant Lyle's party, who reported still more terrible difficul- ties before us. This messenger came in accompanied by an Indian, and reported that he had left Lieutenant L\ie with a relief party on the eastern slope of the Inyo Eange, and that he, in com. pany with a guide by the name of Ilahn, had gone forward to seek a camp to the eastward, and had been left far from this place by the guide, who apparently was confused from not knowing the country; this guide has never since been h?ard from. Lieutenant Lyle and party sncceeded in reaching a little mining camp near Gold Mountain after great hardship. A subsequent guide sent by this officer explained that it would be impossible to send the main party immediately westward toward Camp Independence; consequently, after reaching Grape-vine Springs, which, at the western slope of the foot-hills of a range of this name, faces upon the northwestern arm of the main Death Valley, the train moved to the north and westward, to Deep Spring Valley, reaching there a road, while a party of picked men took up their route nearly due west to reach Camp Independence, no matter what the intervening obstacles, and sncceeded in this after suffering what, up to that time, had been some of the most bitter experience that had ever fallen under my observation. At this rendezvous, as in fact at all others, the time used for the recuperation of animals and arranging for supplies was economically employed by the professional force in local investigation and the preliminary reduction of notes. x\t this point the expedition was joined hy Lieutenant Lockwood. EENDEZVOUS NO. 3, CAMP INDEPENDENCE, CALIFOENIvk, TO NO. i, AT COTTON- WOOD SPEINGS, NEVADA. Lieutenant Lockwood, having been placed in charge of main party No. 2, was ordered to pro- ceed well to the south, and then, turning to the eastward, to encircle several of the supposed interior and limited local basins, which, although lying in the natural profile which trends toward the Colo- rado, still are separate and inclosed. His party skirted tlie Sierras for a considerable distance below EXPLOKATIOiSr IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 17 Owen's Lake, aud thence to the eastward and across the lower part of Death Valley. The general features of this trip, as well as those operations intrusted to his charge at subsequent times during the season, -will appear in his preliminary report, herewith submitted and marked Apjiendix A. Besides a special party in charge of supplies, who sensibly followed the general direction of main line No. 2 toward the next rendezvous, another party followed an individual and separate line. Main party No. 1, in executive charge of Lieutenant Lyle, broke out of Owen's Eiver Valley to the eastward at the head of Owen's Lake, and came to the mountains on the western side of Death Valley, where they were joined by a side party that had followed a line via the mines at Cerro Gordo, having struck this range of mountains higher up. The main camp was joined by myself after a very severe march, when it was found that a small party had gone to the northward to effect a connection be- tween the two lines. A portion of tliis party returned, all, in fact, except Mr. Egan, the guide, who has never yet been heard from authentically; his fate, so far, is uncertain ; that of any one to have followed him in the particular direction he was taking when last seen would have been certain death. More details of this matter occur in the report of Lieutenant Lyle. The force was massed for the passage of Death Valley, and the camp in advance at Furnace Cxeek selected. The entrance to the valley was through a narrow, gorge-like caiion, presenting among its tortuous walls a variety of contour and color. The descent was very rapid, and the bed of the valley below, limited in horizon through the narrow opening by the far mountains to the eastward, met our eyes in strange and gloomy vibrations through the superheated atmosphere. The caiion has been named after the valley, and photographic illustrations here made will give a far more tangible description than words can convey. Finally, one of the bugbears of the trip, that of crossing Death Valley, is over; this jiarticular crossing was near the area of greatest depression, and Dr. Hoffman, with an assistant, was sent to the southward to take barometrical observations; he did not reach the point of greatest depression, however, but the observations from present rough calculations show a level below that of the sea. At our camp at Furnace Creek the thermometer at midnight recorded 109° F. This remarkable valley was crossed in four places. The Amargosa Desert is next encountered, traversed, and camp made at its eastern edge. Here it became necessary to find the rendezvous that had been ordered to be established in the mountain range to the south and east, which result was determined only after much difficulty, owing partly to the surly nature of the Indians found here and the jaded condition of the men and animals of the command. Finally, intelligence was gotten through to the rendezvous, and their comparatively fresh animals did good service in bringing all the party to the camp, which had been selected at Cottonwood Springs, in a beautiful locality on the eastern slope of the Spring Mountain Range. RENDEZVOUS NO. 4, COTTONWOOD SPRINGS, NEVADA, TO TRUXTON SPRINGS, ARIZONxV TERRITORY, RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 5. Prior to the establishing of the next rendezvous, the Colorado was to be crossed ; a separate river party was to be organized and put in operation ; the rendezvous itself was yet to be selected ; also an escort from the Arizona side were to meet us at this point; the land forces were also to keep at work, up to their ordinary maximum capacity, and the plan for those operations, iuNolving the points already mentioned as well as the seeming necessity of using the boats of the river party to cross the land forces at or near the foot of the Grand Caiion, had to be made up in advance, and with the knowledge that physical difficulties would prevent speedy communication in case of mishap. There was no small apprehension on my own part in regard to the success of the programme after it was made out. Subsequently, however, everything that was projected was accomplished, and 3 18 EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. at tbe appointed tiiues. The laud parties were left iu eliarge of Lieuteuant Lockwood, still retain- ing their distinctive party organization, their first objecti\e point being Saint George, in South- western Utali. Their course to this point lay along three lines. The party selected for the ascent of the Colorado reached Camp Mohave on the llth of Septend)er, at which post the boats were stored. The boats being in a somewhat damaged condition, several days were occupied in repairs and gathering supplies. A guide was dispatched to meet the escort who were coming from Camp Ilualapais as a re enforcement: these were to be directed to the rendezvous to be selected, and from thence the guide was to make his way to the northward, crossing the Colorado and reaching the main land camp; this he did with creditable ability and promptitude, and to his action alone belongs, in a measure, the success of the operations along this section. The crossing at the foot of the Grand Cation was reached on the morning of the 4th of October, and on the evening of the 5th the entire expedition was most successfully crossed. One main line continued on directly to Truxton Springs; the remaining available force branched out in other directions. Meanwhile the boat party entered the jaws of the Grand Caiion, not knowing what was before them. Up to this time the rapids, though often very swift, had not been accouij)auied with heavy falls, and the estimate for the time requisite to reach the mouth of the Diamond Creek, (called "Diamond Eiver" by Ives,) or the most desirable point at which to connect with the land camj), was based on our experience up to that time, with supposed due allowance for increasing difficulties, and so arranged in the instructions given to the relief parties. Subsequent revelations showed how inadequate was this plan, and also the chances for suffering that may arise from want of careful judgment and forethought. However, on the 19th of October, after many difficulties, in comparison with which any other of the hardships and privations of the expedition sink into insignificance, the exhausted boat party reached the mouth of Diamond Creek, and are next day gladdened by the sight of the relief party, who visited this point the second time to their assistance. This river trip, occupying only thirty-three days, was quite an exploration of itself, and will be given its due prominence in the final report. The Mohave Indians accompanying us on this tri]) proved to be of invaluable assistance, and although several times ^\ishing to desert, because of the tedious labor and their fear of the Pah- Utes, with whom they were at war, nevertheless proved faithful and industrious to the end. A side party succeeded in reaching the head of the Diamond Creek after some diiflcult climbing. The complete reudez\ous at Truxton Springs was accomplished on the 23d of October. FROM RENDEZVOUS NO. 5, TO RENDEZVOUS NO. 0, PRESCOTT, ARRIZONA TERRI- TORY. The main line with the liea\y train debouched to ilie sonthwai'd, reaching the military road from Camp Mohave to Preseott, and then pushed on iu advance to establish the camp. Main partj- No. '1 followed the rim of the watershed, dividing the waters that approach the Colorado direct and along the Grand Caiion, and those flowing toward tributaries that, joining, enter farther to the southward. Lieutenant Lyle, with a picked escort, broke to the south and east, with Camp Date Creek as an objective point, and thence via Bradshaw mines to Preseott. Another side party visited the Hualapais district, detoured thence in its march to the southward, coming into the military road near Camp Hualapais, while still another party, going as far as Mohave, brought instruments, supplies, and data deposited there, hence to Preseott. The rendezvous at Preseott was completed No^'ember 6. W^iuter was coming on, and being at least three ^v.eelis late in reaching this locality, EXPLORATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 19 it was determined to diminish sliglitly tlie size of the expedition — wliich lyid at all times been too large — at this point; carrying ont this plan, the fearfnl sequel determined that three who had left us were among those nnfortnnatcs in the late Wickenburgh stage massacre, another one of the atrocities committed, so far as circumstantial evidence can determine, at the hands of the Indians fed and fostered by onr Government upon reservations. RENDEZVOUS CAIMP NO. G TO RENDEZVOUS NO. 7, AT OAI\IP APACHE, ARIZONA TERRITORY. The /orce, fairly organized, started out well in hand. Party No. 1 moving to the eastward across the Verde River" at the caves, about thirty miles north of Camp V(?rde, thence in a nearly due straight line reaching the high mesa, and finally the northern end of San Francisco Mountains, about which detailed examinations were made, thence turning to the south and east. Camp Apache was an objective point, and the divide of the waters between the basin of the Little Colorado and those of the Verde and Salt Rivers was sensibly tlie line followed. We were troubled with some snow, and now and then unpleasant winds, all of which was agreeably modified after breaking from the mesa down into the TontoBasin. The distance proved to be greater than was anticipated, and men and animals reached Apache much jaded. Main party No. 2 had arrived at this same point a day or two previous, having crossed our line, reaching the Little Colorado, thence via head of the White Mountains. Only a short time was spent here, as, already so long in the field, nearly every one was threadbare and read5' for rest. A photograph of the White Mountain Apaches on ration day was secured. RENDEZVOUS NO. 7, TO PINAL RENDEZVOUS CAMP NO. 8, AT CAMP LOWELL, TUCSON, ARIZONA TERRITORY. The march between these points was conducted simply in two main lines, one via San Carlos River and Camp Grant, the second via Pinal Mountains and Florence, on the Gila River. Tucson was reached on the evening of the 5th of December, and preparations for disbanding already begun were hastened to a conclusion, and on the 11th everything had been disposed of and those of the parties who were to go either to San Francisco or Washington had departed. Seventy- one remaining mules, the property of the quartermaster's department, were turned over to the depot quartermastei', and forty-seven others, engineer property, were sold, with a view of being used as transportation in the coming camijaigu, and it is hoped that these, as also the several experienced packers, who remained, may be doing good service in the fight against the Apaches in the war, supposed already to have been commenced by General Crook, commanding the department. Thus, in the windings in and ont of the main and various detached jiarties a reconnaissance line of 0,327 miles has been traversed, or nearly twice the shortest distance from Washington to San Francisco, A little more than 83,000 square miles of territory has been examined, lying in the following-named political divisions: Nevada, 32,000; California, 19,000; Utah, 1,200; Arizona, 31,000. It is safe to say that five-eighths of this is new ground. The expense has been a little less than $1 ijer square mile; per square acre not to exceed sixteen one-hundredths cents. The result has exceeded my most sanguine expectations, so much so that present experience would compel me to ask for two seasons to cover a similar-sized area, and it is hoped will contribute data worthy a place among the records of the Department in regard to this portion of our territory. The line has crossed the route of two railroads already projected, the Atlantic and Pacific, and Texas Pacific, along areas that will have to be traversed by the Utah Southern, and affords the requisite information for those routes north and south which are so much needed in the develop- 20 EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. ment of the miniug interest, aud which will be eventually required to hold together the diverse interests of sections separated by large distances latitudinally. It may be said that much of this ground has been visited before, but, although the first party of recorded exjplorers, who visited sections familiar among the aunals of this trip as early as 1540, more than three centuries ago, and have been succeeded by various parties subsequently up to the present time, still the operations of this season have but joined on to, elaborated upon, and to a certain extent completed their work, mapping sensibly only those portions hitherto known as unexplored instrumentally upon the able map of the Western States and Territories compiled in the Engineer Department by General G. K. Warren, at that time lieutenant in the Corps of Topo- graphical Engineers. EXPLOEATION IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. 21 CHAPTERII. I shall endeavor in this chapter to give the general results upon the subjects mentioned in the letter of instructions^ from the Chief of Engineers ; and, with this in view, shall divide them into heads, as follows : 1st, astronomical ; 2d, topographical ; 3d, physicogeographical ; 4th, meteorolo- gical; 5th, geological; Gth, department of natural history, &c. ASTRONOMICAL. The great want in the mapping of the western portion of our territory has been the accurate establishment of astronomical positions. The plan adopted this season has been to secure, at the most proper and available intervals of the perimeter of the area surveyed, the main astronomical stations. During this season these have been to a certain extent accessory to, and governed by, the movements of the parties of the expedition. The locations are as follows : Carlin and Battle Mountain, Nevada, on Central Pacific Railroad, Austin, Nevada ; Camp Independence, California ; Saint George, Utah; and Prescott, Arizona Territory. Including those determined in 1869, there have been established for main stations, under my supervision, eleven points, in the interior of our western territory. In nine of these cases, the longitude has been determined by telegraph. All have been solidly marked with stone monuments, and are available for future reference. The principal observer, Mr. E. P. Austin, presents a hasty report, submitted herewith, and marked Appendix C, giving a general notion of the character of the work, and the prospective value of the results. Another of the observers, Mr. Marvine, who also at times has had his attention directed to matters of geology, could, if present during the time of arranging the material for a preliminary report, bear more jiarticular testimony regarding the results at Saint George, Utah, and at Prescott, Arizona Territoi'y. His observations, however, when reduced by the com- puter, will be presented in proj)er form in the final report. In order to comprehend fully the character of the value of this astronomical work, the full report will give, in addition to the reductions of our own observers, those of Messrs. Eastman and Wheeler, respectively, of the United States Naval Observatory, at Washington, and that of the United States Lake Survey, at Detroit. At the intermediate astronomical stations, the observations have been taken with sextants giving a check more particularly upon the latitudes. The majority of the stations were confined to the two main lines of the survey, and the character of the work varies in no remarkable particular from that ordinarily jierformed in the Pacific Railroad surveys. Data from these observations will be properlj grouped in tables for future reference. TOPOGRAPHICAL. The plan pursued has been to attach one topographer to each of the main and side parties, who was assisted by one observer taking odometer readings, and another person to read the barometer for relative and absolute altitude of the station. In the frame- work of the map are the main astronomical points, the intermediate astronomical points coming in at the ends of the daily marches, while between each two of these latter the topographer takes as many stations as may be needed to satisfy him in regard to the details. The base line is then the meandered line, measured by the odometer, checked by astronomical positions and angular bearings from prominent mountain j)eaks. 22 EXPLORATION IX NEVADA AND ARIZONA. Tlie portable' tr.insits employed, having a telescope of considerable focal i>ower, give quite accurate readings for the bearings, and a sldllful topographer, after a little practice, varies but slightly in his latitudes and departures from those given by the astronomical positions. Tlie aneroid reading.s give data for a general profile of the routes and the heights of the stations, and after these"observations are reduced l)y comparing -n'ith the cistern barometer, give a series of results of siirprising relative accuracy. In the vicinity of the rendezvous camps more time was available, and more minute surveys carried out. The contours of the areas, covered by mineral development in two mining districts, were taken. The method of moving in two lines, flanked at least by one side party adjacent to each, has worked very successfully, and in a great measure accounts for the very extensive results obtained topographically. The difliculty of keeping these parties supplied, and in a state of active co- operation, calls for very constant, strenuous ex(Mtious, liowever, on the part of the officer in charge. As a certain allotment of funds and material had been made for one season's work to cover a certain area, it became necessary, in order to consummate the results expected, to work with much celerity and little or no intermission, and the force at ray disposal were constantly pressed with labors that gave them little if any rest, and no recreation from the commencement to the end of the season. It is with no little satisfaction that I can bear testimony to the willingness of the civilian assistants and employes, with scarce an exception, 1o make any and all exertions, or undergo such privations as were required of them. In gaining topographical information, special attention was given to the determination ol' the perimeter line of the watersheds of the exterior and interior basins; to the relative iiortions of mountain and valley; to the size and extent of the arable, mineral, and desert sections ; of the distribution of springs, streams, timber, &c., all of which are to appear in the final map or maps. The areas inhabited by the Indian tribes are also to be marked out, and the varieties of observations afford material for the constrnction of a number of maps. The possible location for routes by rail, or common roads, along lines sensibly north and south, have been carefully studied, and to this end the expedition has followed out and made use of the system employed in the eailier surveys for a railroad route from the ]\rississipi>i to the Pacific Ocean ; more accuracy having been obtained because of the superior character of the astronomical stations, and the improvement in field instruments now used. The large field traversed while upon various trips since 18G8, up to that of the present season, has rendered me conversant with a considerable section of country over which, in the final topo- graphical map, a more systematic nomenclature can be adopted. Among those portions prosecuted more in detail, and presenting novel and interesting results is the survey of the Colorado, pai'tly hydrographic in its nature, and which adds unique information to the topographical knowledge of our continent. The general tendency of projecting too much has been felt in this undertaking, and must always follow as the experience of any one who estimates for a scheme of exploration, no matter how little or how greatly elaborate among those sections oi'our western territory still niunapped, where the physical obstacles are so varied and difficult. rHYSIGO-GEOG i; ArHTO AL. The operations of the past season have been conducted in a great measure in and around the Great American Desert. Go where you will in your journey westward, from the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, exploi;atiox ix inevada and akizon^. 23 you must cross its barren aud uninviting plains, valleys, or mountains. Its coufiguratiou is \ aried, as are many of its local characteristics; in width ranging from seventy-five to two hundred and fifty miles, but uowliere narrowing so that an east aud west line can be prolonged entirely through arable sections. The ele'N atiouH of this great area viiry, I'roui the depression in Death Valley, below the level of the sea, to mountain valleys, from six to seven thousand feet in altitude, surrounded by rugged and often desolate ranges, whose summits tower to heights of eleven and twehe thousand feet. The general trend of these mouutaiu chains from the fortieth to the thirty-tifth parallel is sensibly north and south, with spurs and ridges that bear for the general part to the northwest and southeast, the eastern slopes of the main ridges being by far the most gentle. Passing into Arizona, the continuity of the characteristic trend of the Cordillera system is somewhat broken in that area occupying so large a portion of Northeastei^n Arizona, that will be named upon the maps as the Colorado Plateau. Upon the summit of this grand plateau one encounters the rolling and broken mesa formation through which have obtruded at many points volcanic mouutain peaks, that lift their black sides far in the horizon. Through the middle of the Territory the ranges, formed of the more i)rimitive rocks, steer on iu their course, and are met, as it were, by other ranges that, converging in direction, follow onward in their deliberate advance, massing iu tho Sierra Madres of Mexico. The present map submitted will give soraewliat of a general view of these more prominent features. Physical geography details, al^^ ays having more direct reference tg the vertical lines of a sur- \ey, have been sought after, aud the ^vauts of the case attended to so far as possible. The posi- tive and relative altitudes of a multitude of i)oints have been secured. Profiles along many lines of the basius, both exterior and interior, can be produced ; the con- figurations of the mountains, valleys, rivers, creeks, aud springs, in their general relation, have been noted. The character and supposed extent of the great Colorado Plateau, the peculiar features of which have, for the first time, been delineated, were partially studied aud need but one more expedition to complete. Examinations while ascending the famous canon of the Colorado chronicle, in inemorium, addi- tions to those data, gradually being collated, referring to the beginning of the creation of the world ; and while watching the gloomy sides of these grand walls, listening to the confused mutterings of the restless waters, whose continual fliow through geologic years have so seldom awakened a sound beyond their own echoes, comes the thought that the time necessary for the creation, full development, and extinction of one single animal race, falls into insigniflcauce in comparison with the eras that may have passed while this erosive agent of nature was stealing slowly down to its present bed. The exploration has determined the existence and limits of several basius, completely inclosed, without drainage to the ocean and outside either of the Great Salt Lake or Humboldt Basins, principally found in Nevada, to the east of the Sierras aud north of latidude 35° 30'; of these the Death Yalley Basin is characteristic. The face of the country, especially in those locations where the primitive rocks arc superhu- posed unconformably, by volcanic material belonging to the older series, is rapidly changing by denudations; the constant action of these degradations being to decrease the declivities of the mountains, carrying the debris far out into the valleys, the disintegration constantly furnishing earthy material for new series of .plants from age to age. Along very many areas in Ne\'ada and Arizona quite extensive forests fringe the high mouu- 24 EXPLOKATIOJSf IN NEVADA AND ARIZONA. tains and plateaus. The grand Colorado Plateau, so immense in size, is, over a great share of its surface, covered with pine forests and parts. The greater portion of the area examined in Southeastern California was of the most barren and desolate nature, the bare and brown rocks seldom being relieved by any sort of vegetation. PiQon pine and a stunted growth of mountain cedar abound in fre