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 http://www.archive.org/cletails/cu31924027989098 
 
THE DIARY 
 
 JOHN EVELYN, ESQ., F.R.S. 
 
THE DIARY 
 
 JOHN EVELYN, ESQ., F.R.S. 
 
 FROM 1641 TO 1705-6 
 
 WITH MEMOIR 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 WILLIAM BRAY, ESQ. 
 
 FELLOW AND TREASURER OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES OF LONDON 
 
 LONDON 
 
 W. W. GIBBINGS, 1 8, BURY STREET, W.C. 
 
 Exeter : J. G. Commin 
 
 1890 
 
 T 
 

 A 
 
 A/ \ 
 
TO 
 JOHN EVELYN OF WOTTON IN SURREY, ESQ. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 The last sheets of this Work, with a Dedication to the late LADY 
 Evelyn, under whose permission it was to be given to the public, were 
 in the hands of the Printer, when it pleased God to release her from a 
 long and painful illness, which she had borne with the greatest fortitude 
 and resignation to the Divine Will. 
 
 These papers descended, with the estate, from the celebrated John 
 Evelyn, Esq. (a relative of your immediate ancestor), to his great- 
 great-grandson, the late Sir Frederick Evelyn, Bart. This Gentlemaij 
 dying without issue, intrusted the whole to his Lady, whose loss we 
 have now to lament; of whose worth, and of the value of whose friend- 
 ship, I have happily had long knowledge and experience. Alive to the 
 honour of the family, of which she was thus made the representative, 
 she maintained it in every point, and with the most active benevolence; 
 and her care extended to every part of the property attached to the 
 domain. Mr. Evelyn had fonned in his own mind a plan of what he 
 called an ' Elysium Britannicum,' in which the Library and Garden 
 were intended to be the principal objects : could he return and visit 
 this his beloved seat, he would find his idea realized, by the arrange- 
 ment and addition which her Ladyship had made to his library, and 
 by the disposition of the flower-garden and green-house, which she had 
 embellished with the most beautiful and curious flowers and plants, 
 both native and exotic. 
 
 In completion and full justification of the confidence thus reposed in 
 her, her Ladyship has returned the estate, with its valuable appendages, 
 to the family, in your person. 
 
 I have, therefore, now to offer these Volumes ' to you. Sir, with a 
 wish, that you and your posterity may long enjoy the possessions, and 
 continue the line of a Family so much distinguished in many of its 
 branches, for superior worth and eminence. 
 
 I am. Sir, 
 Your most obedient, 
 
 and most humble servant, 
 
 Share, 2 Jan. 1818. WILLIAM BRAY. 
 
 1 Biilio^apkic notice, frotH* Lowndes* p. 767. Fifth edition, 1 vols., P(rrt. and plaits. 
 Second edit; 2 vols., 115J. 6d. Third edit., i, vols. 8vo., aoj. Fourth edit., 4 vok^ 43* 
 Fifth edit., 4 vols., 34J. Bohn's edit,. 4 vois.^ 20s. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The following pages are taken from the Journal of John Evelyn, 
 Esq., author (amongst many other works) of the celebrated Sylva, a 
 Treatise on Forest Trees, and from which he has often been known by 
 the name of The Sylva Evelyn. The Journal is written by him m a 
 very small, close hand, in a quarto volume, containing 700 pages, which 
 commences in 1641 and is continued to the end of 1697, and from 
 thence is caiTied on in a smaller book till within about three weeks oi 
 his death, which happened 27 Feb. 1705-6, in the 86th year of his age. 
 
 These books, with numberless other papers in his handwriting, are 
 in the valuable Library at Wotton, which was chiefly collected by him. 
 Lady Evelyn, the late possessor of that very respectable old Mansion, 
 after much solicitation from many persons, consented to favour the 
 Public with this communication. The last sheets were in the hands of 
 the Printer, when the death of that Lady happened. 
 
 The Editor who has been entrusted with the preparation of the 
 work for the press, is fully diffident of his competence to make a 
 proper selection, and is even aware that many things will be found in 
 its pages which, in the opinion of some, and not injudicious. Critics, 
 may appear too unimportant to meet the public eye : but, it has been 
 thought that some information, at least some amusement, would be 
 furnished by the publication ; it has been supposed that some curious 
 particulars of persons and transactions would be found in the accom- 
 panying notes ; and that, though these papers may not be of importance 
 enough to appear in the pages of an Historian of the Kingdom, they 
 may in some particulars set even such an one right ; and, though the 
 notices are short, they may, as to persons, give some hints to Biogra- 
 phers, or at least may gratify the curiosity of those who are inquisitive 
 after the mode in which their ancestors conducted their business, or 
 passed their time. 
 
 Thus, when mention is made of great men going after dinner tn 
 attend a Council of State, or the business of their particular Offices, or 
 the Bowling Green, or even the Church ; of an Hour's Sermon being 
 of a moderate length ; of Ladies painting their faces being a novelty, 
 or of their receiving visits of Gentlemen whilst dressing, after having 
 just risen out of bed ; of the female attendant of a lady of fashion tra- 
 velling on a pillion behind one of the footmen, and the footmen riding 
 with swords ; such things may not be altogether incurious. 
 
 For many Corrections, and many of the Notes, the Editor acknow- 
 
PREFACE, vii 
 
 ledges, with great pleasure and regard, that he is indebted to James 
 Bindley, Esq.' of Somerset House, a Gentleman who possessed an 
 invaluable Collection of the most rare Books and Pamphlets, and 
 whose liberality in communications was equal to the ability afforded 
 by such a collection. 
 
 He has also to acknowledge how much he is obliged for many his- 
 torical notes and elucidations to a literary Gentleman very conversant 
 with English History, whose name he would gladly give, were it not 
 withheld by particular request, and whose research has doubtless 
 given additional interest to this work. 
 
 The Editor, finally, returns his best thanks to Mr. Upcott, of the 
 London Institution, for the great and material assistance received from 
 him in this Publication, besides his attention to the superintendence of 
 the Press. 
 
 MR. EVELYN lived in the busy and important times of King 
 Charles I. Oliver Cromwell, King Charles II. King James II. and 
 King William, and he early accustomed himself to note such things as 
 occurred which he thought worthy of remembrance. He was known 
 to, and had much personal intercourse with, the Kings Charles II. and 
 James II. ; and he was in habits of great intimacy with many of the 
 Ministers of those two Monarchs, and with many of the eminent men 
 of those days, as well amongst the Clergy as the Laity. Foreigners 
 distinguished for learning or arts, who came to England, did not leave 
 it without visiting him. 
 
 In the first edition of the Bz'o^. Brit, in folio. Dr. Campbell has a 
 long article relating to this gentleman ; and the following pages will 
 produce farther particulars of this eminent man. They will shew 
 that he did not travel merely to count steeples, as he expresses himself 
 in one of his letters : they will develope his private character as being 
 of the most amiable kind. With a strong predilection for monarchy, 
 with a personal attachment to Kings Charles II. and James II., formed 
 when they resided at Paris, he was yet utterly averse to the arbitrary 
 measures of those Monarchs. 
 
 Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and practice of the 
 Church of England, he felt the most liberal sentiments for those who 
 differed from him in opinion. He lived in intimacy with men ot all 
 persuasions, nor did he think it necessary to break connexions with 
 
 » Died, in the Sist year of his age. Sept li, 1818. 
 
viii PRErACE. 
 
 any one who had even been induced to desert the Church of England 
 and embrace the doctrines of that of Rome. 
 
 He speaks with great moderation of the Roman Catholics in general, 
 admitting that some of the Laws enacted against them might be miti- 
 gated ; but of the Jesuits he had the very worst opinion, considering 
 them as a most dangerous Society, and the principal authors of the 
 misfortunes which befell King James II., and the horrible persecutions 
 of the Protestants in France and Savoy. 
 
 He must have conducted himself with uncommon prudence and dis- 
 cretion, for he had personal friends in the Court of Cromwell, at the 
 same time that he was corresponding with his father-in-law Sir Rich. 
 Browne, the Ambassador of Charles II. at Paris ; and at the same 
 period that he paid his Court to the King, he maintained his intimacy 
 w ith a disgraced Minister. 
 
 In his travels he made acquaintance not only with men eminent for 
 learning, but with men ingenious in every art and profession. 
 
 His manners we may presume to have been of the most agreeable 
 kind, for his company was sought by the greatest men, not merely by 
 inviting him to their own table, but by their repeated visits to him at 
 his own house ; and this was equally the case with regard to the ladies, 
 of many of whom he speaks in the highest style of admiration, affec- 
 tion, and respect. He was master of the French, Italian, and Spanish 
 languages. That he had read a great deal is manifest, but at what 
 time he found opportunities for study, it does not seem easy to say ; he 
 acknowledges himself to have been idle while at Oxford ; and when on 
 his travels he had little time for reading, except when he stayed about 
 nineteen weeks in France, and at Padua, where he was likewise 
 stationary for some time. At Rome he remained a considerable time ; 
 but whilst there he was so continually engaged in viewing the great 
 abundance of interesting objects to be seen in that City, that he could 
 have found little leisure for reading. When resident in England, he 
 was so much occupied in the business of his numerous offices, in pay- 
 ing visits, in receiving company at home, and in examining whatever 
 was deemed worthy of curiosity or of scientific observation, that it is 
 astonishing to think how he found the opportunity to compose the 
 numerous books which he published, and the much greater number of 
 papers, on almost every subject, which still remain in manuscript ^ ; to 
 say nothing of the very extensive and voluminous Correspondence 
 which he appears to have carried on during the period of his long life, 
 with men of the greatest eminence in Church and State, and the most 
 distinguished for learning, both Englishmen and Foreigners. In this 
 correspondence he does not seem to have made use of an amanuensis 
 and he has left transcripts in his own hand of great numbers of Letters' 
 
 1 Amongst these there is a Bible bound in three volumes, the pages filled with notes. 
 
PREFACE. tx 
 
 both received and sent. He observes, indeeil, m one of these, that he 
 seldom went to bed before 12, or closed his eyes before i o'clock. 
 
 He was happy in a wife of congenial dispositions with his own, of an 
 enlightened mind, who had read much, was skilled in etching and paint- 
 ing, yet attentive to the domestic concerns of her household, and a most 
 affectionate mother. Of her personal beauty an idea may be formed 
 from the print, engraved from a most exquisite drawing in pencil by 
 that celebrated French artist Nanteuil, in 1650. Dr. Eohun, who 
 knew Mrs. Evelyn intimately, having resided with her family for a 
 long time as tutor to her son, describes her not only as an eloquent 
 letter-writer, a wit and a beauty, but as " the best of daughters and wives, 
 the most tender of mothers, and the most amiable of friends." Some 
 of her letters have been preserved, and confirm his eulogium of them. 
 
 The grandfather of John Evelyn, George, was not the first ofthefamily 
 who settled in Surrey; John, father of this George, was of Kingston 
 in 1520, and married a daughter of David Vincent, Esq. Lord of the 
 Manor of Long Ditton, near Kingston, which afterwards came into the 
 hands of George, who there carried on the manufacture of gunpowder. 
 He purchased very considerable estates in Surrey, and three of his 
 sons became heads of three families, viz. Thomas, his eldest son, at 
 Long Ditton ; John at Godstone, and Richard at Wotton. Each 
 of these three families had the title of Baronet conferred on them 
 at different times, viz. at Godstone in 1660, Long Ditton in 1683, and 
 Wotton in 17 13. 
 
 The manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at Godstone as well 
 as at Long Ditton, but it does not appear that there ever was any mill 
 at Wotton, or that the purchase of that place was made with such a 
 view. Nor does it appear that Mr. Evelyn's grandfather _^/<3:«^(?if the 
 timber, with which Wotton was, and always has been, so well stored. 
 The soil produces it naturally, and it has at ail times been carefully 
 preserved, besides what has been planted, furnishing abundance for 
 cutting at proper seasons. 
 
 It may be not altogether incurious to observe, that, though Mr. 
 Evelyn's father was a man of very considerable fortune, the first rudi- 
 ments of this son's learning were acquired from the village schoolmaster 
 over the porch of Wotton Church. Of his progress at another school, 
 and at college, he himself speaks with great humility ; nor did he add 
 much to his stock of knowledge whilst he resided in the Middle Temple, 
 to which his father sent him, with intention that he should apply to 
 what he calls ' an impolished study,' which he says he never likei 
 More will be said of this in a subsequent page. 
 
 The public troubles coming on before he had engaged in any settled 
 plan for his future life, it appears that he had thoughts of Uving in the 
 most private manner, and that, with his brother's permission, he had 
 even begun to prepare a place for retirement at Wotton. Nor did he 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 afterwards wholly abandon this intention, if the plan of a philosophical 
 College which he sent to Mr. Boyle in 1659, was really formed on 
 a serious idea. 
 
 His answer to Sir Geo. Mackenzie's panegyric on Solitude, in which 
 Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part, and urges the preference to which 
 public employment and an active life is entitled, might be supposed a 
 playful essay of one who, for the sake of argument, would controvert 
 another's position, though in reality agreeing with his own opinwn, if 
 we think him serious in two letters to Mr. Abraham Cowley, dated 
 12 March and 24 August 1666. In truth, his mind was too active 
 to admit of solitude, however desirable it might at some times appear 
 to him in Theory. 
 
 After he had settled at Deptford, which was in the time of Crom- 
 well, he kept up a constant correspondence with Sir Rich. Browne (his 
 father-in-law) the King's Ambassador at Paris ; and though his con- 
 nection must have been known, it does not appear that he met with 
 any interruption from the Government here. Indeed, though he re- 
 mained a" decided Royalist, he managed so well as to have intimate 
 friends amongst those nearly connected with Cromwell ; and to this we^ 
 may attribute his being able to avoid taking the Covenant, which he 
 says he never did take. In 1659 he published ' An Apology for the 
 Royal Party,' and soon after he printed a paper which was of great 
 service to the King, entitled 'The late News or Message from Brussells' 
 unmasked,' which was a pamphlet designed to represent the King in 
 the worst light. 
 
 On the Restoration we find him very frequently at Court, and he 
 became engaged in many public employments, still attending to his 
 studies and literary pursuits. Amongst these is particularly to be 
 mentioned the Royal Society, in the establishment and conduct of 
 which he took a very active part. He procured Mr. Howard's library 
 to be given to them ; and in 1667 the Arundelian Marbles to the Uni- 
 versity of Oxford. 
 
 His first appointment to a public office was in 1662, as a Commis- 
 sioner for reforming the buildings, ways, streets and incumbrances, and 
 regulating Hackney coaches in London. In the same year he sat as a 
 Commissioner on an enquiry into the conduct of the Lord Mayor, &c. 
 concerning Sir Tho. Gresham's charities. In 1664 he was in a Com- 
 mission for regulating the Mint; and in the same year he was appointed 
 one of the Commissioners for the care of the Sick and Wounded in 
 the Dutch War ; and was continued in the same employment in the 
 second War with that Country. 
 
 He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of St. Paul's Cathe- 
 dral shortly before it was burnt in 1666. 
 
 In chat year he was in a Commission for regulating the farming and 
 making of Saltpetre. 
 
PREFACE. XI 
 
 In 1671 he was made a Commissioner of Plantations on the estab- 
 lishment of the Board, to which the Council of Trade was added in 
 1672. 
 
 In 1685 he was one ot the Commissioners of the Privy Seal during 
 the absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who held that office), on his 
 going Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. 
 
 On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital in 1695, he was one of the 
 Commissioners ; and on 30 June 1696, he laid the first stone of that 
 building. He was appointed Treasurer with a salary of .£200 a year, 
 but he says it was a long time before he received any part of it. 
 
 When the Czar of Muscovy came to England in 1698, he was de- 
 sirous of having the use of Sayes Court, as being near the King's 
 Dock-yard at Deptford, where that Monarch proposed insti-ucting him- 
 self in the art of Ship-building. During his stay he did so much 
 damage, that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of ^.150 for it. He parti- 
 cularly regrets the mischief done to his famous holly hedge, which 
 might have been thought beyond the reach of damage.' 
 
 October 1699, his elder brother George Evelyn dying without male 
 issue, aged 83, he succeeded to the paternal estate ; and in May follow- 
 ing he quitted Sayes Court and went to Wotton, where he passed the 
 remainder of his life, except going occasionally to London, where he 
 had a house. 
 
 In the great storm in 1703 he mentions, in his last edition of the 
 Sylva, that above 1000 trees were blown down in sight of his house. 
 
 He died at his house in London, 27 Feb. 1705-6, in the eighty-sixth 
 year of his age, and was buried at Wotton. His Lady survived him 
 nearly three years, dying 9 Feb. 1708-9, in her seventy-fourth year, and 
 was buried near him at Wotton. His personal character was truly 
 amiable. In the relative duties of father, husband, and friend, few 
 could exceed him. 
 
 Of Mr. Evelyn's children, one son, who died at the age of five, and 
 one daughter, who died at the age of nineteen, were almost prodigies. 
 The particulars of their extraordinary endowments, and the deep 
 manner in which he was affected by their deaths, may be seen in 
 his letters, and cannot be read without exciting the most tender 
 emotions. 
 
 One daughter was well and happily settled ; another less happily, 
 but she did not survive her marriage more than a few months. 
 
 The only son who lived to the age of manhood inherited his father's 
 love of learning, and distinguished himself by several publications. 
 
 Mr. Evelyn's employment as a Commissioner of the Sick and Wounded 
 was a very laborious one, and from the nature of it must have been 
 extremely unpleasant. Almost the whole labour was in his depait- 
 
 * It is said that one of Czar Peter's favourite recreations was to demolish the hedpes by 
 cidiag through them in a wheelbarrow. 
 
xii PREFACE. 
 
 ment, which included all the Ports between the River Thames and 
 Portsmouth ; he had to travel in all seasons and weathers, by land 
 and by water, in the execution of his office, to which he gave the strict- 
 est attention. It was rendered still more unpleasant by the great 
 difficulty which he found in procuring money for support of the Pri- 
 soners. In the Library at Wotton are copies of numerous letters to 
 the Lord Treasurer and Officers of State, representing, in the strong 
 est terms, the great distress of the poor men, and of those who had 
 furnished lodging and necessaries for them. At one time there were 
 such aiTears of payment to the victuallers, that on landing additional 
 sick and wounded, they lay some time in the streets, the publicans 
 refusing to receive them, and shutting up their houses. After all this 
 trouble and fatigue he found as great difficulty in getting his accounts 
 settled 1. In Jan. 1665-6 he formed a plan for an Infirmary at Chat- 
 ham, which he sent to Mr. Pepys, to be laid before the Admiralty, with 
 his reasons for recommending it ; but it does not appear that it was 
 carried into execution. 
 
 His business relating to the repair of St. Paul's (which, however, was 
 very short), that of a Commissioner of Trade and Plantations, and for 
 building Greenwich Hospital, were much better adapted to his inclina- 
 tion and pursuits. 
 
 As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign of K. James II. 
 he had a difficult task to perform. He was most steadily attached to 
 the Church of England, and the King required the Seal to be put t» 
 many things incompatible with the welfare of that Church. This on 
 some occasions he refused to do, particularly to a Licence to Dr. 
 Obadiah Walker to print Popish books'; and on others absented him- 
 self, leaving it to his brother Commissioners to act as they thought fit. 
 Such, however, was the King's opinion of him, that he shewed no dis- 
 pleasure on this account. 
 
 With respect to Mr. Evelyn's attempt to bring Col. Morley (who 
 was Cromwell's Lieutenant of the Tower, and who held it at the time 
 immediately preceding the Restoration) over to the King's interest, an- 
 imperfect account of it is given in the Biograpliia. 
 
 The fact is, that there was great friendship between these gentlemen^ 
 and Mr. Evelyn did endeavour to engage the Colonel in the King's- 
 
 1 3 Oct. 1665, he writes to the Lord Chancellor, Lord Arlington, Sir William Coventry, and' 
 Sir Philip Warwick, complaining of want of money for the Prisoners, and praying that whilst 
 he and his brother Commissioners adventure their persons, and all that is dear to them, iiu 
 this uncomfortable service, they may not be exposed to ruin, and to a necessity of abandon- 
 ing their care : they have lost their officers and servants by the pestilence, and are hourly 
 environed with the saddest objects of perishing people.—' I have,' says he, ' 15 places full ot 
 sick men, where they put me to unspeakable trouble ; the Magistrates and Justices, who 
 should further us in our exigencies, hindering the people from giving us quarters, jealous of 
 the contagion, and causing them to shut their doors at our approach.' 
 
 2 Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England, but had renounced it, and 
 turned Papist. 
 
PREFACE. xiii 
 
 Interest ; he saw him several times, and put his life into his hands by 
 writing- to him on 12 Jan. 1659-60 ; he did not succeed, and Col. 
 Morley was too much his friend to betray him ; but so far from the 
 Colonel having settled matters privately with Sir Anth. Ashley Cooper, 
 or General Monk ^ as there stated, when the Restoration took place, 
 Col. Morley actually applied to Mr. Evelyn to obtain his pardon, and 
 Mr. Evelyn obtained it accordingly, though, as the latter states, the 
 Colonel was obliged to pay a sum of money. This could not have 
 happened if he had previously joined with General Monk. 
 
 Mr. Evelyn's book intitled ' Navigation and Commerce, their Original 
 and Progress,' was nothing more than an Introduction to the History 
 of the Dutch War, a work undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express 
 command of King Charles II., and the materials for which were fur- 
 nished by the Officers of State. The completion of this work, after a 
 considerable progress had been made in it, was put a stop to by the 
 King himself ; for what reason does not appear ; but perhaps it was 
 found that Mr. Evelyn was inclined to tell too much of the truth con- 
 cerning a transaction which it will be seen by his Journal he utterly 
 reprobated. His copy of the History, as far as it had proceeded, he 
 put into the hands of his friend Mr. Samuel Pepys of the Admiralty, 
 who did not return it. 
 
 ' The Mystery of Jesuitism' consisted of three volumes, published in 
 different years. The translation of the second was undertaken by Mr. 
 Evelyn at the express desire of Lord Clarendon and his son, as appears 
 by a letter of Mr. E. to Lord Combury, dated 9 Feb. 1664. The third 
 was translated by Dr. Tonge for Mr. Evelyn. 
 
 In giving a list of Mr. Evelyn's Publications, the Authors of the 
 Biographia say, ' As several of these treatises were printed before the 
 Author's return to England, and others without his name, we must 
 depend on the general opinion of the woi"ld, and the authority of Mr. 
 Wood, for their being his ; yet there is no great reason to suspect a 
 mistake.' They say, ' We know nothing of the " Mundus Muliebris ; 
 or, the Ladies' Dressing Room unlocked," except that it has had a 
 place in tlic Catalogue of our Author's Works, from which therefore 
 we have no right to remove it.' 
 
 There iS no doubt of his being the author : under 1685 Mr. Evelyn, 
 in his account of his daugnter Mary, says she ' put in many pretty 
 symbols in the " Mundus Muliebris," wherein is an enumeration 01 the 
 immense variety of the modes and ornaments belonging to the sex.' 
 
 In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated 9 Feb. 1664, he speaks of having 
 written a Play. 
 
 1 Colonel Morley's name is scarcely mentioned in the account of General Monk's conduct 
 on this occasion written by John Price, D.D. (who was sent to him on the King's behalf, 
 and had continual intercourse with him), published in x68o, and reprinted by Baron Maserea 
 in 1815. 
 
xiv PREFACE. 
 
 The Authors of the Btog. Brit, say, 'The account which Mr. Boyle 
 received from Mr. Evelyn of the method used by the Italians for pre- 
 serving snow in pits, is an admirable specimen of that care with which 
 he registered his discoveries, as weil as the curiosity which prompted 
 him to enquire into every thing worthy of notice, either natural or arti- 
 ficial, in the countries through which he passed. It is much to be 
 regretted that a work so entertaining and instructive as the History of 
 his Travels would have been, appeared, even to so indefatigable a per- 
 son as he was, a task too laborious for him to undertake ; for we should 
 then have seen clearly, and in a true light, many things in reference to 
 Italy which are now very indistinctly and partially represented ; and 
 we should also have met with much new matter never touched before, 
 and of which we shall now probably never hear at all.' 
 
 What is thus said of Mr. Evelyn's travels is partly supplied in the 
 following volume, but not so fully as could be wished. That he made 
 many observations which will not be found here, appears by the above 
 quotation from Mr. Boyle, and by an account of the manner of making 
 bread in France, which he communicated to Mr. Houghton, a Fellow 
 of the Royal Society, who published it in some papers which he printed 
 weekly in 1681 and following years. It is presumed that Mr. Evelyn 
 had made many other observations not found in this Journal, and the 
 notes of which have not been discovered amongst his papers. 
 
 From the numerous Authors who have spoken in high terms of this 
 Gentleman, we will insert the two following characters of him : 
 
 In the Biog. Brit. Dr. Campbell says, ' It is certain that very few 
 Authors who have written in our language deserve the character of 
 able and agreeable writers so well as Mr. Evelyn, who, though he was 
 acquainted with most sciences, and wrote upon many different subjects, 
 yet was very far, indeed the farthest of most men of his time, from 
 being a superficial writer. He had genius, he had taste, he had 
 learning ; and he knew how to give all these a proper place in his 
 works, so as never to pass for a Pedant, even with such as were least 
 in love with literature, and to be justly esteemed a polite Author by 
 those who knew it best.' — Vol. V. p. 614, note I. 
 
 Mr. Hor. Walpole, in his Catalogue of Engravers, also gives the 
 following admirably-drawn character of him: ' If Mr. Evelyn had not 
 been an Artist himself, as I think I can prove he was, I should yet 
 have found it difficult to deny myself the pleasure of allotting him a 
 place among the Arts he loved, promoted, patronized ; and it would 
 be but justice to inscribe his name with due panegyric in these records, 
 as I have once or twice taken the liberty to criticise him : but they are 
 trifling blemishes compared with his amiable virtues and beneficence ; 
 and it may be remarked, that the worst I have said of him is, that he 
 knew more than he always communicated. It is no unwelcome satire 
 to say, that a man's intelligence and philosophy is inexhaustible, I 
 
PREFACE. XV 
 
 mean not to write his Life, which may be found detailed in the new 
 edition of his ' Sculptura,' in Collins's ' Baronetage,' in the ' General 
 Dictionary,' and in the new ' Biographical Dictionary ;' bat I must 
 observe, that his life, which was extended to 86 years, was a course of 
 enquiry, study, curiosity, instruction, and benevolence. The works of 
 the Creator, and the minute labours of the creature, were all objects of 
 his pursuit He unfolded the perfection of the one, and assisted the 
 imperfection of the other. He adored from examination ; was a cour- 
 tier that flattered only by informing his prince, and by pointing out 
 what was worthy for him to countenance ; and really was the Neigh- 
 bour of the Gospel, for there was no man that might not have been 
 the better for him. Whoever peruses a list of his works will subscribe 
 to my assertion. He was one of the first promoters of the Royal 
 Society ; a patron of the ingenious and the indigent ; and peculiarly 
 serviceable to the lettered world ; for besides his writings and dis- 
 coveries, he obtained the Arundelian Marbles for the University of 
 Oxford, and the Arundelian Library for the Royal Society. — Nor is it 
 the least part of his praise, that he, who proposed to Mr. Boyle the 
 erection of a Philosophical College for retired and speculative persons, 
 had the honesty to write in defence of active life against Sir Geo. 
 Mackenzie's Essay on Solitude. He knew that retirement, in his own 
 hands, was industry, and benefit to mankind ; but in those of others, 
 laziness and inutility.' 
 
 His son, Mr. John Evelyn, was of Trinity College, Oxford, and when 
 about 1 5 years old he wrote that elegant Greek Poem which is prefixed 
 to the second edition of the ' Sylva.' He translated Rapin on Gardens, 
 in four books, written in Latin verse. His father annexed the second 
 book of this to the second edition of his ' Sylva.' He also translated 
 from the Greek of Plutarch the life of Alexander the Great, printed in 
 volume iv. of ' Plutarch's Lives by several Hands; 'and from the French, 
 the History of the Grand Viziers Mahomet and Achmet Coprogli. 
 There are several Poems of his, of which some are printed in Dryden's 
 Miscellanies, and more in Nichols's Collection of Poems. 
 
 In December 1688 he was presented to the Prince of Orange at 
 Abington by Col. Sidney and Col. Berkley, and was one of the volun- 
 teers in Lord Lovelace's troop, when his Lordship secured Oxford for 
 the Prince. In 1690 he purchased the place of Chief Clerk of the 
 Treasury ; but in the next year he was by some means removed from 
 it by Mr. Guy, who succeeded in that office. In August 1692 he 
 was made one of the Commissioners of the Revenue in Ireland, from 
 whence he returned to England in 1696 in very ill health, and died 
 24th March, 1698, in his father's life-time. 
 
 He married Martha, daughter and coheir of Rich. Spenser, Esq., a 
 Turkey merchant, by whom he had two sons and three daughters. 
 The eldest son, and the eldest daughter, Martha-Mary, and youngest 
 
XVI PREFACK 
 
 daughter, Jane, died infants. The surviving daughter, Elizabeth, mar- 
 ried Simon Harcourt, Esq. son of the Lord Chancellor Harcourt. 
 Sep. i8, 1705, the son John, who had succeeded his grandfather at 
 Wotton, married Anne, daughter of Ed. Boscawen, Esq. of the county 
 of Cornwall ; and by letters patent, dated 30 July 17 13, was created 
 a Baronet. He inherited the virtue and the taste for learning, as well 
 as the patrimony, of his ancestors, and lived at Wotton universally 
 loved and respected. He built a Library there, 45 feet long, 14 wide, 
 and as many high, for the reception of the large and curious collection 
 of books made by his grandfather, father, and himself, and where thev 
 now remain. He was a Fellow of the Royal Society, was long the 
 First Commissioner of the Customs, and died July 15, 1763, in the 
 eighty-second year of his age. 
 
 By his lady, who died before him, he had several children, and was 
 succeeded by John the eldest, who married Mary daughter of Hugh 
 Boscawen, Viscount Falmouth, and died 11 June, 1767, in the sixty- 
 first year of his age. He was Clerk of the Green Cloth to Frederick 
 Prince of Wales, father of Grnrtre 111., to George III. when Prince of 
 Wales, and after he came to the Crown. He represented the Borough 
 of Helston in several Parliaments, and to the time of his death. He 
 had only one son, Frederick, who succeeded to the title and estate, 
 and three daughters. Of the daughters, two died unmarried ; the 
 third, Augusta, married the Rev. Dr. Henry Jenkin, Rector of Wotton 
 and Abinger, but she died without issue. Sir Frederick was in the 
 army in the early part of his life, and was in Elliot's Light-Horse 
 when that Regiment so highly distinguished themselves in the famous 
 Battle of Minden in Germany in 1759. He married Mary, daughter 
 of William Turton, Esq. of Staffordshire, and, dying without issue in 
 1812, he left his estates to his Lady. She lived at Wotton, where she 
 fully maintained the honour and great respect which had so long 
 attended the family there. Her taste for botany was displayed in her 
 garden and green-house, where she had a curious collection of exotic 
 as well as native, shrubs and flowers. The Library shared her atten- 
 tion ; besides making additions to it, she had a complete Catalogue 
 arranged by Mr. Upcott of the London Institution. 
 
 This lady by her will returned the estate to the family, devising it to 
 John Evelyn, Esq. who descended from George Evelvn, the Durchaset 
 of this estate in 1 579. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 KA.LENDARIUM. 
 
 I WAS borne at Wotton, in the county of Surrey, 31 Oct., 1620^ 
 after my Father had been married about seven yeares', and my 
 Mother had borne him two daughters and one sonn, viz. Eliza, 2S 
 Nov., 1614: Jane, 16 Feb., 1615; George, 18 June, 1617. They had 
 another sonn after me, Richard, bom 4 Dec, 1622. 
 
 My Father, named Richard, was of a sanguine complexion, mixed 
 with a dash of choler : his haire inclining to light, which tho' very 
 thick became hoary by that time he was 30 yeares of age; it was 
 -; somewhat curled towards the extremity ; his beard, which he wore a 
 /,' little picked, as the mode was, of a brownish colour, and so continued 
 ' to the last, save that it was somewhat mingled with grey haires about 
 his cheekes : which, with his countenance, was cleare, and fresh 
 coloured, his eyes quick and piercing, an ample forehead, manly aspect; 
 low of stature, but very strong. So exact and temperate, that I haue 
 heard he had never been surprised by excesse, being ascetic and 
 sparing. His wisdom was greate, his judgment acute ; of solid dis- 
 course, affable, humble, and in nothing affected ; of a thriving, neate, 
 silent, and methodical~^enius ; discreetly severe, yet liberal on all just 
 occasions, to his children, strangers, and servants ; a lover of hospi- 
 tality ; of a singular and Christian moderation in all his actions ; a 
 Justice of the Peace and of the Quorum ; he served his Country as 
 High Sheriff for Surrey and Sussex together^. He was a studious 
 decliner of honours and titles, being already in that esteem with his 
 country that they could have added little to him beside their burden '. 
 He was a person of that rare conversation, that upon frequent recollec- 
 tion, and calling to mind passages of his life and discourse, I could 
 never charge him with the least passion or inadvertence. His estate 
 was esteem'd about £^oooj>er ann. well wooded and full of timber. 
 
 1 He was married at St. Thomas's Church, Southwark, 37 Jan. 1613. 
 
 2 Formerly the two Counties had, in general, only one Sheriff, though sometimes distinct 
 ones ; in 1637 each County had its Sheriff, and so it has continued ever since. 
 
 3 " Rectaved the 29 Oct., 1630. of Richard Evlinge of Wottone in the Countye of Sun' 
 Esq. : by waie of composic'one to the use of his Mac., being appointed by his M. CoUectoi 
 for the same, for his Fine for not apearinge at the time and place apoynted for receavinga 
 jrder of Knighthood,, the somme of fivetypound I say receaved Tho. CtYMKS." 
 
 I 5 'U 2 
 
■i8 DESCRIPTION AND SITUATION OK WOTTON, SURREY. 
 
 My Mother's name was Elianor, sole daughter" and heyresse of 
 John Standsfield Esq. ; of an ancient and honorable family (thougli 
 now extinct) in Shropshire, by his wife Elianor Comber of a good and 
 well knowne house in Sussex. She was of proper personage ; of a 
 Browne complexion ; her eyes and baire of a lovely black ; of constitu- 
 tion inclyned to a religious melancholy, or pious sadnesse ; of a rare 
 memory and most exemplary life; for ceconomie and prudence 
 •esteemed one of the most conspicuous in her Country. 
 
 So much touching my parents; nor was it reasonable I should 
 -speake lesse of them to whom I owe so much. 
 
 Wotton, the mansion house of my father, left him by my grand- 
 father, (now my eldest brother's) is situated in the most Southern part 
 of the Shire, and tho' in a vally, yet really upon part of Lyth Hill, one 
 of the most eminent (993 feet) in England for the prodigious prospect to 
 be seen from its summit, tho' by few observed. From it may be dis- 
 cem'd 12 or 13 Counties, with part of the Sea on the Coast of Sussex., 
 in a serene day ; the house large and ancient, suitable to those hos- 
 pitable times, and so sweetly environed with those delicious streams 
 . and venerable woods, as in the judgement of Strangers as well as Eng- 
 lishmen it may be compared to one of the most pleasant Seates in the 
 Nation, and most temptmg for a great person and a wanton purse to 
 render it conspicuous : it has rising grounds, meadows, woods, and 
 water, in abundance. 
 
 The distance from London little more than 20 miles (nearly 26 
 miles) and yet so securely placed as if it were 100 ; three miles from 
 Dorking, which serves it abundantly with provisions as well of land as 
 ■sea; 8 from Gilford, 14 from Kingston. I will say nothing of the 
 ■ ayre, because the prKeminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil 
 being dry and sandy ; but I should speake much of the gardens, 
 fountaines, and groves, that adorne it ; were they not as generaly 
 knowne to be amongst the most natural, and (til this later and universal 
 "luxury of the whole nation, since abounding in such expenses) the most 
 magnificent that England afforded, and which indeede gave one of the 
 first examples to that elegancy since so much in vogue and foUow'd in 
 the managing of their waters, and other ornaments of that nature. Let 
 me add, the contiguity of 7 Manners, the patronage of the livings about 
 it,^ and, what is none of the least advantages, a good neighbourhood. 
 All which conspire to render it fit for the present possessor, my worthy 
 brother, and his noble lady, whose constant liberality give ttiem title 
 both to the place and the affections of all that know them. Thus, with 
 the poet, 
 
 Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine cunctos 
 Ducit, et im'emores non sinit esse sui. 
 
 1 Born 17 Nov. 1^98, near Lewes; 
 
 » r Manors, 2 Advowsons, and a Chapel of Sir John Cotton. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 19 
 
 1624. I was not initiated into any rudiments till I was four years of 
 age, and then one Frier taught us at the church porch of Wotton ; and 
 I perfectly remember the great talk and stir about il Conde Gundamafj 
 Ambassador from Spain (for near about this time was the match of 
 our Prince with the Infanta proposed). 
 
 1625. I was this year sent by my Father to Lewes, to be with my 
 Grandfather Standsfield, with whom I passed my childhood. This 
 was the year in which the pestilence was so epidemical that there dy'd 
 in London 5,000 a week ; and I well remember the strict watches and 
 «xaminations upon the ways as we passed. 
 
 1626. My picture was drawn in oyle by one Chanterell, no ill 
 painter. 
 
 1627. My Grandfather Standsfield dyed this yeare on ; Feb. : I 
 remember the solemnity at his funeral. He was buried in the parish 
 •church of AU Soules, where my Grandmother, his second wife, erected 
 a monument. About this time was the consecration of the Church of 
 South Mailing, near Lewes, the building whereof was chiefly procured 
 by my Grandfather, who having the Impropriation, gave ^(^20 a-year 
 out of it to this Church. I afterwards sold the Impropriation. I layd 
 ■one of the first stones at the building of the Church, which was conse- 
 crated by Bishop Field, Bishop of Oxfd., the sermon being preached 
 ty Mr. Coxhall, afterwards minister there. 
 
 It was not till the yeare 1628 that I was put to learne my Latine 
 rudiments, and to write of one Citolin, a Frenchman, in Lewes. I was 
 put to schoole to Mr. Potts, in the Cliffe at Lewes ; and in 1630 from 
 thence to the Free-schole at Southover neere the town, of which one 
 Agnes Morley had been the foundresse, and now Edward Snatt was 
 the master, under whom I remained till I was sent to the University. 
 This yeare my Grandmother (with whom I sojourn'd) being married to 
 one Mr. Newton, a learned and most religious gent, we went from the 
 Cliff to dwell at his house in Southover. 
 
 1631. There happen'd an extraordinary dearth in England, corne 
 bearing an excessive price ; and in imitation of what I had scene my 
 Father do, I began to observe matters more punctualy, which I did 
 used to set downe in a blanke almanac. 
 
 21 Oct. 1632. My eldest Sister was married to Edward Darcy Esq.; 
 who Uttle deserved so excellent a person. I was soone afterwards sent 
 for into Surrey, and my Father would willingly have weaned me from 
 ■my fondness of my too indulgent Grandmother, intending to have 
 placed me at Eaton ; but I was so terrified at the report of the severe 
 discipline there, that I was sent back to Lewes, which perversenesse of 
 mine I have since a thousand times deplor'd. Whiles I was now 
 ■trifling at home I saw London, where I lay one night onely. The 
 next day I dined at Beddington, where I was much delighted with 
 
 i Long after, Mr. Evelyn paid great rtfspect to this gentleman, as appears by his letters. 
 
20 DEATH OF MY SISTER— DEATH-BED OF MY MOTHER. 
 
 the gardens and curiosities. Thence we returned to the Lady 
 Darcy's at Sutton, thence to Wotton, and the i6 August 1633, back 
 
 to Lewes. 
 
 1634. My Father was appointed Sheriff for Surrey and Sussex 
 before they were disjoyned. He had 1 16 servants in Uverys, every one 
 liver/d in greene sattin doublets ; divers gentlemen and persons of 
 quality waited on him in the same garbe and habit, which at that time 
 (when 30 or 40 was the usual retinue of the High Sheriff) was esteem'd a 
 great matter. Nor was this out of the least vanity that my Father 
 exceeded (who was one of the greatest decliners of it), but because he 
 could not refuse the civility of his friends and relations, who volun- 
 tarily came themselves, or sent in their servants. But my Father was 
 afterwards most unjustly and spitefully molested by that jeering judge 
 Richardson', for repreeving the execution of a woman, to gratifie my 
 L. of Lindsey, then Admiral ; but out of this he emerged with as much 
 honor as trouble. 
 
 15 Dec. 1634. My Sister Darcy departed this life, being arriv'd to 
 her 20 yeare of age, in vertue advanc'd beyond her yeares, or the merit 
 of her husband, the worst of men. She had been brought to bed the 2 
 June before, but the infant died soon after her. My Sister was interr'd 
 in a very honorable manner in our dormitory joyning to the parish 
 church of Wotton, where now her monument stands. 
 
 1635. My deare Mother departed this life upon the 29 Sept., about 
 the 37th of her age and 22d of her marriage ; her death hastened by 
 excessive grief for the losse of her daughter. When near her death, 
 she summoned all her children then living (I shall never forget it), and 
 express'd herself in a manner so heavenly, with instructions so pious 
 and Christian, as made us strangely sensible of the extraordinary losse 
 then imminent ; after which, embracing every one of us, she gave to 
 each a ring, with her blessing. Then taking my Father by the hand, 
 she recommended us to his care ; and having importun'd him that what 
 he design'd to bestow on her funeral he would rather dispose among 
 the poore, she labour'd to compose herselfe for the blessed change 
 which she now expected. There was not a servant in the house whom 
 she did not expressly send for, advise, and infinitely affect with her 
 counsell. 
 
 Though her Physicians, Dr. Merwell, Dr. Clement, and Dr. Rand, 
 had given over all hopes of her recovery, and Sr. Sanders Duncombe 
 tried his celebrated and famous powder, she was many days impairing, 
 and endur'd the sharpest conflicts of her sicknesse with admirable 
 
 1 He was made a Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 1626, and of the King's Bench ia 
 1631. There is a monument for him in Westminster Abbey. Fuller says he lived too neai 
 the time to speake fully of him. He took on him to issue an order against keeping wakes on 
 Sundays, which Laud, then Bishop of Bath and Wells took up as an infringement of the right* 
 of Bishops, and got him severely reprimanded at the Council Table. He was owner of Sur- 
 horough Castle in Lmgfield ia Surrey. Bray's History of Surrey, vol. II. 3^5. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 21 
 
 patience and most Christian resignation, retaining her intellectuals and 
 ardent affections for her dissolution to the very article of her departure 
 When near her dissolution, she laid her hand on every one of hej 
 children, and taking solemn leave of my Father, with elevated heart 
 and eyes she quietly expired, and resign'd her soule to God. She was 
 interr'd, as neere as might be, to her daughter Darcy, 3 Oct. at night, 
 but with no meane ceremony. 
 
 1 1636. This yeare being extreamely dry, the pestilence much in- 
 creased in London and divers parts of England. 
 
 13 Feb. I was admitted into the Middle Temple, London, thojgh 
 absent, tind as yet at schoole. 
 
 3d April, 1637. I left schoole, where, till about the last yeare, I had 
 been extreamely remisse in my studies, so as I went to the Universitie 
 rather out of shame of abiding longer at schoole, than for any 
 fitnesse, as by sad experience I found, which put me to re-leame all 
 that I had neglected, or but perfunctorily gain'd. 
 
 10 May. I was admitted a fellow communer of Baliol College, Oxford, 
 and on the 29th I was matriculated in the Vestry at St. Marie's, where 
 I subscribed the Articles and took the oaths. Dr. Baily, head of St. 
 John's, being Vice Chancelor, afterwards Bp. The Fellow Communers 
 in Balliol were no more exempt from exercise than the meanest scholars 
 there, and my Father sent me thither to one Mr. Geo. Bradshaw {nomen 
 invisztm ! yet the son of an excellent father, beneficed — Rector of Ock- 
 ham — in Surrey.) I ever thought my Tutor had parts enough, but as 
 his ambition made him much suspected of the College, so his grudge 
 to Dr. Lawrence, the governor of it (whom he afterwards supplanted) 
 tooke up so much of his tyme, that he seldom or never had the oppor- 
 tunity to discharge his duty to his scholars. This I perceiving, asso- 
 ciated myself with one Mr. Jas. Thicknesse (then a young man of the 
 Foundation, afterwards a Fellow of the House,) by whose learned and 
 friendly conversation I received great advantage. At my first arival, 
 Dr. Parkhurst was Master ; and after his discease, Dr. Lawrence, a 
 chaplaine of his Ma'ties and Margaret Professor, succeeded, an accute 
 and learned person ; nor do I much reproch his severity, considering 
 that the extraordinary remissenesse of discipline had (til his coming) 
 much detracted from the reputation of that CoUedg. 
 
 There came in my tyme to the Coll : one Nathaniel Conopios out of 
 Greece, from Cyrill the Patriarch of Constantinople, who returning 
 many years after, was made (as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He 
 was the first I ever saw drink coffee, which custom came not into Eng- 
 land till 30 years after. 
 
 After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities (for then was 
 the University exceedingly regular, under the exact discipline of William ' 
 
 1 An account of the visit made by K. Charles I. and his Queen to the University of O.xfon^ 
 «i Sept. 1636, is given in this work in a letter from Ceo. Evelyn, Esq. to his Father. 
 
22 AT CAMBRIDGE— IN SOMERSETSHIRE— AND IN LONDON. 
 
 Lawd, Abp. of Canterbury, then Chancelor,) I added, as benefactor to 
 the Library of the Coll. these books : 
 
 Zanchii Opera, vols, i, 2, 3. Granada in Thomam Aquinatem, vols. 
 I, 2, 3. Novarini Electa sacra, and CresoliiAnthologia sacra, authors 
 (it seems) desired by the students of Divinity there. 
 
 1637. At Christmas the Gentlemen of Exeter College presented z. 
 Comedy to the University. 
 
 I was admitted into the dauncing and vaulting Schole, of which late 
 activity one Stokes, the Master, set forth a pretty book, which waa 
 publish'd with many witty elogies before it.' 
 
 1638. My Father order'd that I should begin to manage myne owne 
 expenses, which till then my Tutor had done; at which I was much 
 satisfied. 
 
 1639. I began to look on the rudiments of musick, in which I 
 afterwards ariv'd to some formal knowledge, though to small perfec- 
 tion of hand, because I was so frequently diverted by inclinations to 
 newer trifles. 
 
 20 May. Accompany'd with one Mr. Jo. Crafford, (who afterwards 
 being my fellow-traveller in Italy there chang'd his religion,) I tooke a 
 journey of pleasure to see the Sumersetshire Bathes, Bristoll, Ciren- 
 cester, Malmesbury, Abington, and divers other townes of lesser note, 
 and returned the 25th. 
 
 1640. Came my bro. Richard from schole to be my chamber-fellow 
 at the University. He was admitted the next day, and matriculated 
 the 31st. 
 
 I I April. I went to London to see the solemnity of his Majesties 
 riding through the Citty in state to the Short Parliament, which began 
 the 13th following, a very glorious and magnificent sight, the King 
 circled with his royal diademe and the affections of his people. 
 
 27 April. I went to London to be resident in the Middle Temple. 
 My being at the University, in regard of these avocations, was' of very 
 small benefit to me. 
 
 5 May was the Parliament unhappily dissolved. 
 
 20 May I return'd with my bro. Geo. to Wotton, who on the 28 of 
 the same month was married at Aldbury to Mrs. Caldwell (an heiress 
 of an ancient Leicestershire family).- 
 
 10 June I repaired with my Brother to the Tearme, to goe into our 
 new lodgings, (that were formerly in Essex Court,) being a very hand- 
 
 l It being now become extremely scarce, the title of it is here given : ' The Vaulting 
 Master, or the Art of Vaulting. Reduced to a method comprized under certain Rules. Illus- 
 trated by examples, and now primarily set forth, by Will. Stokes. Printed for Rich. Davis 
 in Oxon, 1655/ A small oblong quarto, with the author's portrait prefixed, and a number o< 
 plates beautifully engraved (most probably by Glover) representing feats of activity on horM- 
 back that appear extraordinary ones at this time of day. 
 
 ■' A daughter of Dan. Caldwell, Esq. by Mary, daughter of Geo. Duncomb, Esq. of Albury. 
 She died 15 May 1644, and he afterwards married the widow of Sir John Cotton. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 23 
 
 some apartment just over against the Hall-Court, but four pair of stairs 
 high, w'ch gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect, but did not muck 
 contribute to the love of that impolish'd study, to w'ch (I suppose) my 
 Father had design'd me, when he paid 145/. to purchase our present 
 lives, and assignments afterwards. 
 
 London, and especially the Court, were at this period in frequent- 
 disorders, and greate insolencies were com'itted by the abus'd and too- 
 happy Citty : in particular the Bish. of Canterbury's Palace at Lam- 
 beth was assaulted by a rude rabble from Southwark ; my Lord Cham- 
 berlayne imprison'd, and many scandalous libells and invectives, 
 scatter'd about the streetes, to the reproach of Government and the- 
 fermentation of our since distractions. 
 
 27 June. My Father's indisposition augmenting, by advice of the 
 physitians he repaired to the Bathe. 
 
 7 July. My brother Geo. and I understanding the peril my Father 
 was in, rod post from Guildford towards him, and found him extra- 
 ordinary weake ; but on eighth Sept. I returned home with him ini 
 his litter. 
 
 15 Oct. I went to the Temple, it being Michaelmas; Tearme it 
 began then. 
 
 30th. I saw his Ma'tie (coming from his Northern Expedition) ride- 
 in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all the marks of a happy peace, 
 restored to the affections of his people, being conducted through Lond: 
 with a most splendid cavalcade ; and on 3 Nov. following (a day never 
 to be mention'd without a curse) to that long, ungratefuU, foolish, and 
 fatal Parliament, the beginning of all our sorrows for twenty yeares. 
 after, and the period of the most happy Monarch in the world : Qtiis 
 talia fando ! ' 
 
 My Father's disorder appeared to be a dropsy, an indisposition the- 
 most unsuspected, being a person so exemplaryly temperate. On the 24. 
 Dec. he died, retaining his senses and piety to the last, which he most 
 tenderly expressed in blessing us, whom he now left to the world, and. 
 the worst of times, whilst he was taken from the evill to come. 
 
 1641. 2 Jan. We at night followed the mourning hearse to the- 
 Church at Wotton, when, after a sermon and funeral oration, my 
 Father was interred neere his formerly erected monument, and mingled 
 with the ashes of our Mother, his deare wife. Thus we were bereft oi 
 both our parents in a period when we most of all stood in need of theire-: 
 counseU and assistance, especially myselfe, of a raw, vaine, uncertain, 
 and very unwary inclination ; but so it pleased God to make tryall of 
 my conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest and most prodigious hazard ' 
 that ever the youth of England saw. If I did not amidst all this 
 peach my liberty, nor my vertue, with the rest who made shipwreck of 
 
 1 Notwithstanding this expression, it -will afterwaids appear that Mr. Evelyn by no mean^ 
 sppmved of arbitrary or tyrannical measures 
 
34 TRIAL AND EXECUTION OF STRAFFORD— EMBARKS FOR HOLLAND. 
 
 "both, it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than the 
 least discretion of myne owne, who now thought of nothing but the 
 pursuite of vanity, and the confused imaginations of young men. 
 
 15. I went to London, to heare and see the famous tryall of the 
 Earl of Strafford, who on 22d March before had been summon'd 
 before both Houses of Parliament, and now appear'd in Westminster 
 Hall, which was prepar'd with scaffolds for the Lords and Commons, 
 who together with the King, Queene, Prince, and flower of the 
 Noblesse, were spectators and auditors of the greatest malice and the 
 greatest innocency that ever met before so illustrious an assembly. 
 The E. of Arundell and Surrey, Earle Martial of England, was made 
 High Steward. The sequel is too well known. 
 
 27. Came over from Holland the young Prince of Orange, with a 
 splendid equipage, to make love to his Ma'ties eldest daughter, the now 
 Trincess Royal. 
 
 That evening was celebrated the pompous funerall of the Duke of 
 Richmond, who was carried in effigie in an open chariot thro' London 
 in great solemnity. 
 
 12 May. I beheld on Tower Hill the fatal stroke which sever'd the 
 wisest head in England from the shoulders of the Earle of Strafford ; 
 whose crime coming under the cognizance of no human law, a new one 
 was made, not to be a precident, but his destruction ; to such exorbitancy 
 "were things arived. 
 
 28 June. I went to London with my sister Jane, and the day after 
 'sate to one Vanderborcht for my picture in oyle, which I presented to 
 her, being her request, on my resolution to absent myself from this 
 ■ill face of things at home, which gave umbrage to wiser than myselfe, 
 that the medaiU was reversing, and our calamities were but yet in 
 their infancy. 
 
 The 16 July, having procur'd a passe at the Costome-house, I went to 
 Cravesend, accompany'd with one Mr. Caryll and our servants, with a 
 purpose to take the first opportunity of a passage for Holland ; but the 
 wind as yet not favourable. On the 19th we rode to Rochester and 
 -Chatham, to see the Soveraigne, a monstrous vessel so called, being 
 for burthen, defense, and ornament, the richest that ever spread cloth 
 •before the wind,' and especially for this remarkable, that her building 
 •cost his Ma'tie the affections of his subjects, who quarrell'd with 
 him for a trifle, refusing to contribute either to their own safety or 
 to his glory. 
 
 21. We embarqued in a Dutch Fregat, bound for Flushing, con- 
 voyed and accompanied by 5 other stoute vessells, whereof one was a 
 jnan of war. The next day at noon we landed at Flushing. 
 
 Being desirous to overtake the Leagure,' which was then before 
 
 ^ Accidentally burnt at Chatham in 1696. 
 
 » Mr. Evelyn means, by this expression, to be in time to witness the siege, &C. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 2$ 
 
 Genep,' 'eie tlie Summer should be too far expir'd, we went this even- 
 ing to Midelbrogh and Derveer. From Derveer we passed over many 
 townes, houses, and ruines of demolish'd suberbs, &c. which have for- 
 merly ben swallow'd up by the sea, at what time no less than 8 of those 
 Hands had been irrecoverably lost. 
 
 The next day we ariVd at Dort, the first towne of Holland, fumish'd 
 with all German commodities, and especially Rhenish wilties and tim- 
 ber. It hath almost at the extremity a very spacious and venerable 
 Church ; a stately Senat-house, wherein was holden that famous Synod 
 against the Arminians in 1618, and in that hall hangeth a picture of the 
 Passion, an exceeding rare and much esteemed piece. 
 
 From Dort, being desirous to hasten towards the Army, I tooke 
 wagon to Roterdam, where we were hurried in lesse than an houre, 
 though it be 10 miles distant, so furiously do these Foremen drive. I 
 saw the publiq statue of the learn'd Erasmus, of brasse. They shew'd 
 us his House, or rather the meane Cottage wherein he was borne, over 
 which there were extant these lines in capital letters : 
 
 iEDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS 
 ARTIBUS INGENUIS, RELIGIONE, FIDE. 
 
 The 26th I passed through Delft to the Hague ; in which journey 
 I observ'd divers leprous poor creatures dwelling in solitary huts on the 
 brink of the water, and permitted to aske the charity of passengers, 
 which is convey'd to them in a floating box that they cast out 
 
 Ariv'd at the Hague, I went first to the Queene of Bohemia's 
 Court ; there were several of the Princesses her daughters. Prince 
 Maurice newly come out of Germany, and my Ld. Finch not long 
 before fled out of England from the fury of the Parliament. It was a 
 fasting-day with the Queene, for the unfortunate death of her husband; 
 and the Presence Chamber had been hung with black velvet ever since 
 his discease. 
 
 The 28th I went by Leyden ; and on the 29th to Utricht. We then 
 came to Rynen, where the Queene of Bohemia hath a neate Palace 
 or Country-house, built after the Italian manner as I remember. Then 
 by Nimeguen. And, 2d of August, arriv'd at the Leagure, where was 
 then the whole Army encamped about Genep, a strong castle on the 
 river Wahale ; but being taken 4 or j days before, we had only a sight 
 of the demolitions. The next Sunday was the thanksgiving sermons 
 perform'd in Col. Goreing's Regiment (eldest sonne of the since Earle of 
 Norwich) by Mr. Goff'e his Chaplin (now turned Roman and Father 
 Confessor to the Queen-Mother). The evening was spent in firing 
 canon, and other expressions of military triumphs. 
 
 1 On the Waal— a place which having been greatly strengthened by the Cardinal Infante 
 D. Fernando in 1635, was at this time besieged by the French and Dutch. There is a full 
 account of the siege in the great work of Aitzema, a man who with extraordinary patience 
 compiled materials for the History of the tJnited Provinces during the greater part of th» 
 ■cventeenth century. One o' kis brothers was mortaEy wounded at this siege. 
 
26 AT LEYDEX. ARRIVE AT ROTTERDAM ; THE FAIR THERE. 
 
 Now, according to the compliment, I was received a Volunteere in 
 the Company of Cap. Apsley, of whose Capt. Lieut. Honywood (Apsley 
 being absent) I received many civilities. 
 
 3 Aug., at night, we rode about the lines of circumvallation, the 
 Gen'U being then in the field. The next day I was accom'odated with 
 a very spacious and com'odious tent for my lodging, as before I was 
 with an horse, which I had at com'and, and an hutt, which during the 
 excessive heates was a greate convenience, for the sun piercing the 
 convass of the tent, it was, during the day, unsufferable, and at night 
 not seldome infested with mists and fogg, which ascended from the 
 river. 
 
 6 Aug. As the turne came about, I watched on a home workeneere 
 our quarters, and trailed a pike, being the next morning reliev'd by a 
 company of French. This was our continual duty till the Castle was 
 re-fortified. 
 
 The 7th I went to see a Convent of Francisean Friers, not far from 
 our tents ; the Chapell and Refectory full of the goods of such poor 
 people as at the approch of the Army had fled with them thither for 
 sanctuary. On the day following I went to view all the trenches, 
 approches, and mines, &c. of the Besiegers, and in particular the 
 wheel-bridg, which engine his Excellency had made to run over the 
 moate when they storm'd the castle. The walls and ramparts of 
 earth, which a mine had broaken and crumbled, were of prodigious 
 thicknesse. 
 
 8. I din'd in the Horse quarters with Sir Rob. Stone and his 
 Lady, Sir Will. Stradling, and divers Cavaliers, where there was 
 rery good cheere, but hot service for a young drinker as I then was. — 
 Being pretty well satisfied with the confusion of Armies and Sieges (if 
 such that of the United Provinces may be called, where their quarters 
 and encampments are so admirably regular, and orders so exactly 
 observed as few Cittys exceede it for all conveniences), I tooke my 
 leave of the Leagure and Camerades. 
 
 12 Aug. I embarked on the Waal, in company with 3 grave 
 Divines, who enntertayn'd us a greate part of our passage with 
 a long dispute concerning the lawfulness of Church Musick. We 
 touch'd at Bommell, that had divers English in garrison. It stands 
 upon Contribution land, which subjects the environs to the Spanish 
 incursions. We passed Lovestine, famous for the escape of the 
 learned Grotius, whose lady conveyed him out as a trunk of books. We 
 lay at Gorcum. 
 
 13. We arrived late at Roterdam, where was their annual marte or 
 faire, so furnished with pictures (especially Landskips and Drolleries, 
 as they call those clounish representations) that I was amaz'd. Some 
 1 bought and sent into England. The reson of this store of pictures 
 and their cheapness proceedes from their want of land to employ their 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. TJ 
 
 Stock, SO that it is an ordinary thing to find a common Farmer lay out 
 two or ;^3,ooo in this com'odity. Their houses are full of them, and 
 tliey vend them at their faires to very greate gaines. Here I iirst saw 
 an Ehphant. I passed thro' Delft, and visited the Church, where was 
 the monument of Prince William of Nassau, and his sonn and suc- 
 cessor, Grave Maurice. The Senat-house hath a very stately Portico, 
 supported with very choyse pillars of black marble, as I remember, of 
 one entire stone. Within, there hangs a weighty vessell, not unlike a 
 Butter Chume, which the adventurous woman that hath two husbands 
 at one time is to weare for a time about the towne, her head coming 
 out at the hole, and the rest hanging on her shoulders, as a pennance 
 for her incontinency. Risewick is a stately country-house of the 
 Prince of Orange, for nothing more remarkable than the delicious 
 walkes planted with Hme trees, and the modeme paintings within. 
 
 19 Aug. We visited the Haff or Prince's Court at the Hague, with 
 the adjoining gardens, which were full of ornament, close-walks, 
 statues, marbles, grotts, fountains, and artificiall musiq,' &c. There 
 is a stately Hall, not much inferior to ours of Westminster, hung round 
 h'ith colours and other trophys taken from the Spanyards ; and the 
 sides below are fumish'd with shopps.^ Next day I returned to 
 Delft, Rotterdam, the Hague, Leyden, Haerlem, and Amsterdam, 
 where I went to a Synagogue of the Jews, being Saturday ; the cere- 
 monies, ornaments, lamps, law, and scholes, afforded matter for my 
 wonder and enquiry. The women were secluded from the men, being 
 seated above in galleries, and having their heads muffled with linnen 
 after a fantasticall and somewhat extraordinary fashion. They have a 
 seperate burying-ground, full of sepulchres with Hebrew inscriptions, 
 some of them very stately. In one, looking through a narrow crevice, 
 I perceiv'd divers bookes lye about a corpse, for it seems when any 
 learned Rabbi dies, they bury some of his books with him. With the 
 help of a stick I raked out some of the leaves, written in Hebrew cha- 
 racters, but much impaired. — We stepp'd in to see the Spin-house, a 
 kind of Bridewell, where incorrigible and lewd women are kept in dis- 
 cipline and labour, but all neate. — We were shew'd an Hospital for 
 poor travellers and pilgrimes, built by Queene Eliz. of England ; and 
 another maintained by the Citty. 
 
 The State or Senat-house, if the designe be perfected, will be a 
 magnificent piece of architecture, especialy for the materialls and the 
 carvings. In the i2ssie is paynted on a very large table Marie tie 
 Medices' statue to the breast, supported by foure royal diademes, the 
 work of one VandaU, who hath set his name thereon, i Sept. 1638. 
 
 I went to heare an English sermon at the Presbyterian Congrega- 
 
 1 As at Enstone in Oxfordshire, see afterwards. 
 
 2 Westminster Hall used to be so in Term time and the sitting of Parliament, in the 
 beginning oi the reign of George 111. 
 
28 THE INSTITUTIONS AT AND ADVANTAGES OF AMSTERDAM. 
 
 tion, where they had chalked upon a slate the psalms that were to be 
 suns, so that all the congregation might see it without the bidding of a 
 Clerk. After such an age no minister was permitted to preach, but 
 had his maintenance continu'd during life. 
 
 I changed my lodgings out of a desire to converse amongst the Sec- 
 taries that swarm'd in this Citty. It was at a Brownists house, where 
 we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension with us 
 my L. Keeper Finch, and one Sir Jo. Fotherbee. Here I also found 
 an English Carmelite, with another Irish gentleman. I went to see 
 the Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-house, for the educa- 
 tion of decay'd persons, orphans, and poore children, where they are 
 taught several occupations. The girls are so well brought up to 
 housewifry, that men of good worth who seeke that chiefly in a woman, 
 frequently take their wifes from this seminary. We went to see the 
 Rasp-house, where the lusty knaves are compell'd to labour, and the 
 rasping of Brasill and Logwood is very hard labour. Thence to the 
 Dull-house, for madmen and fooles. But none did I so much admire 
 as an Hospitall for their lame and decrepid souldiers, it being for state, 
 order, and acom'odations, one of the worthiest things that the world 
 can shew of that nature. Indeede it is most remarkable what pro- 
 visions are here made and maintain'd for publiq and charitable 
 purposes, and to protect the poore from misery, and the country from 
 beggers. 
 
 On Sunday morning about II, after their sermons were ended, I 
 went to see their Dog-market, which lasts till two in the afternoon. I 
 do not look on the structure of the Exchange to be comparable to that 
 of Sir Tho. Gresham in our Citty of London, yet in one respect it 
 exceeds, that ships of considerable burthen ride at the very key con- 
 tiguous to it. It is by extraordinary industry that as well this Citty, as 
 generaly the townes of Holland, are so accommodated with graffs, cults, 
 sluces, moles, and rivers, that nothing is more frequent then to see 
 a whole navy of marchands and others environ'd with streetes and 
 houses, every man's barke or vessell at anker before his very doore, 
 and yet the streetc so exactly straite, even, and uniforme, that nothing 
 can be more pleasing, especialy being so frequently planted and 
 shaded with the beautifuU lime-trees, set in rows before every man's 
 house. 
 
 The next day we were entertain'd at a kind of tavern called the 
 Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where, in the upper roomes 
 of the house were divers pretty waterworkes, rising io8 foote from the 
 ground ; here were many quaint devices, fountain es, artificiall musiq, 
 noyses of beasts, and chirping of birds, &c. There was a lamp of 
 brasse, with eight socketts from the middle stem, like those we use in 
 churches, having counterfeit tapers in them, streams of water issuing 
 as out of their wickes, the whole branch hanging loose upon .... 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 29 
 
 the middst of a beame, without any other perceptible com'erce with 
 any pipe, so that, unlesse it were by compression of the ayre with a 
 syringe, I could not comprehend how it should be don. There was a 
 chime of purselan dishes, which fitted to the clock-worke rung many 
 changes and tunes. 
 
 The Keisers Graft; or Emperors Streete, appears a citty in a wood 
 through the goodly ranges of the stately lime-trees planted before each 
 man's doore, and at the margent of that goodly aquae-duct, or river, 
 so curiously wharfed with clincars (a kind of white sun-bak'd brick), 
 and of which the spacious streetes on either side are paved. This part 
 of Amsterdam is gained upon the maine Sea, supported by piles at an 
 iro'ense charge. Prodigious it is to consider the multitude of vessels 
 which continualy ride before this Citty, which is certainly the most 
 busie concourse of mortalls now upon the whole earth, and the most 
 addicted to com'erce. 
 
 The Steeples are adorned after a particular manner for cost and 
 invention ; the Chimes of Bells are so rarely manag'd, that being 
 curious to know whether the motion were from any engine, I went up 
 to that of St. Nicholas (as I take it), where I found one who play'd all 
 sorts of compositions from the tablature before him, as if he had 
 fingered an organ, for so were the hammers fastened with wires to 
 several keys, put into a frame 20 foote below the bells, upon which (by 
 help of a wooden instrument, not much unlike a weavers shuttle, that 
 guarded his hand), he struck on the keys and play'd to admiration : all 
 this while through the clattering of the wires, din of the too nearly 
 sounding bells, and noise that his wooden gloves made, the confusion 
 was so greate that it was impossible for the musician, or any that stood 
 nearehim, to heareany thing himselfe ; yet to those at a distance, and 
 especialy in the streetes, the harmony and the time were the most 
 exact and agreeable. 
 
 Generaly there are in all the Churches in Holland, organs, lamps, 
 monuments, &c. carefully preserved from the fury and impiety of 
 popular reformers, whose zeale had foolishly transported them in other 
 places rather to act like mad-men than religious. 
 
 I went to Hundius's shop to buy some mapps, greatly pleased ■with 
 the designes of that indefatigable person. Mr. Bleaw, the setter forth of 
 the Atlas's and other workes of that kind, is worthy seeing. At another 
 shop I fumish'd myselfe with some shells and Indian curiosities. 
 
 Towards the end of August I returned to Haerlem by the river 10 
 miles in length, straighte as a line and of competent breadth for 
 ships to saile by one other. They shew'd us a cottage where, they told 
 us, dwelt a woman who had been married to her 25th husband, and 
 being now a widdow was prohibited to marry in future, yet it could 
 not be proved that she had ever made any of her husbands away, 
 though the suspicion had brought her divers times to trouble. 
 
30 LEYDEN UNIVERSITY. JOSEPH SCALIGER. HEINSIUS. 
 
 This is a very delicate towne, and hath one of the fairest Churches, 
 of the Gotiq design, I had scene. There hang in the steeple two silver 
 bells said to have been brought from Damiate in Egypt by an Earle 
 of Holland, in memory of whose successe they are rung out every 
 evening. In the Nave hang the goodliest branches of brasse for 
 tapers that I had scene, esteem'd of great value for the curiosity of the 
 workmanship ; also a faire payre of organs, which I could not find they 
 made use of in divine service, or so much as to assist them in singing 
 psalms, but only for shewe, and to recreate the people before and after 
 iheir devotions, whilst the Burgomasters were walking and conferring 
 about their affaires. — There hang near the West window two modclls 
 of shipps compleetely equipp'd, in memory of that invention of saws 
 under their keeles with which they cutt the chayne before the Port of 
 DamiatEE. Having visited this Church, the Fish-market, and made 
 some enquiry about the Printing-house, the invention whereof is sayd 
 to have been in this towne, I returned to Leyden. 
 
 At Leyden I was carried up to the Castle, or Pyrgus, built on a very 
 steepe artificial mount, cast up (as reported) by Hengist the Saxon 
 on his returne out of England, as a place to retyre to in case of any 
 sudden inundations. 
 
 The Churches are many and very faire ; in one of them lyes interr'd 
 that prodigy of learning the noble and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, 
 without any extraordinary inscription, as having himself left so many 
 monuments of his worth behind him, more lasting than marble, 
 besides giving his Library to this University. 
 
 28. I went to see their Colledge and Schooles, which are nothing 
 extraordinary, and was matriculated by the then Magnificus Professor, 
 who first in Latine demanded of me where my lodging in the towne 
 was, my name, age, birth, and to what faculty I addicted myself; then 
 recording my answers in a booke, he administered an oath to me that 
 I should observe the statutes and orders of the University whiles I 
 stay'd, and then deliver'd me a ticket by virtue whereof I was made 
 excise-free, for all which worthy privileges and the paines of writing, 
 he accepted of a rix-doUar. 
 
 Here was the famous Dan. Heinsius, whom I so long'd to see, as 
 well as the Elzivirian printing-house and shop, renown 'd for the polite- 
 ness of the character and editions of what he has publish'd through 
 Europe. I visited their garden of simples, which was indeede well 
 Etor'd with exotic plants, if the Catalogue presented to me by the 
 Gardiner be a faithfuU register. 
 
 I was much pleased with a sight of their Anatomy schole, theater, 
 and repository adjoyning, which is well furnish'd with natural 
 curiosities; skeletons from the whale and eliphant to the fly and spider, 
 whidi last is a very dehcate piece of art, to see how the bones (if I 
 may so call them) of so tender an insect could be separated from the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 31 
 
 mucilaginous parts of y' minute animal. Amongst a great variety o( 
 other things, 1 was shew'd the knife newly talcen 'out of a drunlcen 
 Dutchman's gut's by an incision in his side, after it had slipped from his 
 ' fingers into his stomach. The picture of the chyrurgeon and his 
 patient, both living, were there. 
 
 There is without the Towne a faire Maill curiously planted. 
 
 I was shew'd the statue, cut in stone, of the happy Monke whom 
 they report to have been the first inventor of Typography, set over the 
 doore ; but this is much controverted by others, who strive for the 
 glory of it, besides John Guttenburg. 
 
 I was brought acquainted with a Burgundian Jew who had married 
 an apostate Kentish woman. I asked him divers questions ; he told 
 me, amongst other things, that the world should never end, that our 
 soules transmigrated, and that even those of the most holy persons did 
 pennance in the bodys of bruits after death, and so he interpreted the 
 banishment and salvage life of Nebucodnezer ; that all the Jewes should 
 rise again, and be lead to Jerusalem ; that the Romans only were the 
 occasion of our Saviour's death, whom he affirm'd (as the Turks do) 
 to be a greate Prophet, but not the Messias ; he shewed me severall 
 bookes of their devotion, which he had translated into English for the 
 instruction of his wife ; he told me that when the Messias came, all the 
 ships, barkes, and vessells of Holland should, by the powere of certaine 
 strange whirle-winds be loosed from their ankers and transported in a 
 moment to all^the desolat ports and havens throughout the world 
 where eveFthe dispersion was, to convey their breathren and tribes to 
 the holy Citty ; with other such hke stuff. He was a merry drunken 
 fellow. 
 
 I Sept. I went to Delft and Rotterdam, and two days after back to 
 the Hague, to bespeake a suite of armore which I caused to be made 
 to fit me, with the harnesse of a horseman. I went to see one of the 
 Prince's Palaces, called The Hoff Van Hounslers Dyck, which is a 
 very magnificent cloyster'd and quadrangular building. The gallery is 
 prettily paynted with severall Huntings, and at one end a Gordian knot, 
 with several rusticall instruments so artificially represented as to deceive 
 an accurate eye, to distinguish it from actual relievo. The ceiling of 
 the staire-case is painted with the Rape of Ganymede, and other pen- 
 dent figures, the worke of F. Covenberg, of whose hand I bought an 
 excellent drollery, which I afterwards parted with to my brother George 
 of Wotton, where it now hangs still there. To this Palace joynes a 
 faire garden and parke, curiously planted with limes. 
 
 8 Sept. to Rotterdam thro' Delfts-haven and Seedam, where was at 
 that time Coll. Goring's winter-quarters. This towne has heretofore 
 been much talk'd of for witches. 
 
 10. I took waggon for Dort, to be present at the reception of the 
 Queen Mother, Maria de Medices, Dowager of France. Widdow of 
 
32 AT DORT, BOIS LE DUKE, HYSDUNE, AND ROTTERDAM. 
 
 Henry the Create, and Mother to the French King Lewis xiij and the 
 Queene of England, whence she newly arived, toss'd to and fro by the 
 various fortune of her life. From this Citty she design'd for Collin, 
 [Cologne] conducted by the Earle of Arundell and the Here Van Bra. 
 dered? At this interview I saw the Princesse of Orange, and the Lady 
 her daughter, afterwards married to the House of Brandenbourg, 
 There was little remarkable in this reception befitting the greatnesse of 
 her person, but an universal discontent, which accompany'd that 
 unlucky woman wherever she went. 
 
 12 Sept. I went towards Bois le Duke. We arrived on the l6th, 
 when the New Citidall was advancing with innumerable hands, and 
 incomparable inventions for draining off the waters out of the fenns 
 about it, being by bucketts, mills, cocklea's, pumps, and the like. Here 
 were now 1 6 companies and g tropes of horse. They were cutting a 
 new river to passe from the Towne to a Castle not far from it. Here 
 we split our skiff, falling fowle on another through negligence of the 
 master, who was faine to run on ground, to our no little hazard. A 
 Soldier convey'd us to the Governor, where our names were taken, and 
 our persons examin'd very strictly. I was permitted to walk the round 
 and view the workes, and to visite a Convent of religious women of the 
 order of St. Clara, who by the capitulation were permitted to enjoy 
 their monastery and maintenance undisturbed at the surrender of the 
 towne 1 2 years since. We had a collation, and very civil entertaynment. 
 They had a neate Chapell, in which the heart of the Duke of Cleve, 
 their founder's lies inhum'd under a plate of brasse. Within the Cloyster 
 is a garden, and in the middle of it an overgrowne lime-tree, out of 
 whose stem, neere the roote, issue 5 upright and exceeding tall suckers 
 or boles, the like whereof for evenesse and heighth I had not obserVd. 
 
 The cheife Church is curiously carved within and without, with a 
 paire of organs, and a most magnificent font, all of copper. 
 
 18. I went to that most impregnable towne and fort of Hysdune, 
 where I was exceedingly obliged to one Coll: Crombe, the Lieut. 
 Governor, who would needes make me accept the honor of being Capt. 
 of the Watch, and to give the word this night. We departed towards 
 Gorcum. Here Sir Kenelme Digby travelling towards Colin met us. 
 
 19. We arrived at Dort, passing by the Decoys, where they catch 
 innumerable quantities of fowle. 
 
 22. I went to Roterdam to receive a passe which I expected from 
 the Cardinal Infante, then Governor for his brother the K. of Spaine, 
 in Flanders, being desirous to see that country in my return for Eng- 
 land, whither I was now shaping my course ; and within 2 days after, 
 having obtained another from the Pr. of Orange, on 24 Sept. 1 
 departed through Dort, but met with very bad tempestuous weather, 
 being several times driven back, and oblig'd to lie at anker off Keele, 
 other vessells lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and 26tb 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 33 
 
 we made other essays, but were driven back to the harbor, where lay 
 60 vessels waiting to sail. But on the 27th we, impatient of the t>'me 
 and inhospitablenesse of the place, sailed again with a contrary and 
 impetuous wind, and a terrible sea, in greate jeopardy, for we had 
 much ado to keepe ourselves above water, the billows breaking despe- 
 rately on our vessel ; we were driven into Williamstadt, a place gar- 
 rison'd by the English, where the Governor had a faire house. The 
 workes and especially the Countercamp are curiously hedg'd with 
 jgijick, and are planted with a stately row of limes on the Rampart. 
 The Church is of a round structure with a Cupola. 
 
 28. Failing of an appointement, I was constrained to returne to 
 Dort for a biU of exchange, but it was ist October ere I could get 
 back ; at Keele I numbered 141 vessells who durst not yet venture out ; 
 but animated by the master of a stout bark, after a small encounter of 
 weather, we ariv'd by 4 that evening at Stene-bergen. In the passage 
 we sailed over a sea call'd the Plaet, which is an exceeding dangerous 
 water, by reason of 2 contrary tydes which meet there very impetuously. 
 Here, because of the many sheifes, we were forc'd to tyde it along the 
 Channell ; but, ere we could gaine the place, the ebb was so far spent, 
 that we were compell'd to foote it at least a league thro' a most pelting 
 shower of raine. 
 
 2 Oct. I went in a cart (for it was no better, and no other ac- 
 comodation could be procured) of 2 wheeles and one horse to Bergen- 
 op-Zome, meeting divers partys of his Highness' Army retiring 
 towards their winter quarters. The Fort was heretofore built by the 
 English. 
 
 The next morning I embarked for Lillo, having refused a convoy of 
 horse which was afforded me. The tyde being against us, we landed 
 short of the Fort, on the beach, where we marched half leg deep in mud 
 ere we could gaine the dyke, which being 5 or 6 miles from Lillo, we 
 were forced to walke on foote very wett and discompos'd, and then 
 entering a boat we pass'd the Ferry, and came to the Castle. Being 
 taken before the Governor, he demanded my passe, to which he set his 
 hand, and asked 2 rix-doUars for a fee, which methought appeared very 
 unhandsome in a Soldier of his quality. I told him that I had ahead 
 purchased my passe of the Commissaries at Roterdam ; at which, in a 1 
 greate fury snatching the paper out of my hand, he flung it scornfully 
 under a table, and bad me try whether I could get to Antwerp without 
 his permission ; but when I drew out the money, he return'd it as scur- i " 
 vily again, bidding me pay 14 Dutch shill. to the Cantone, or Searcher, | 
 for my contempt, which I was also glad to do with a greate deale of 
 laution and danger, concealing my Spanish passe, it being a matter of 
 miprisonment, for that the States were therein treated by the names of 
 Rebells. Besides all these exactions I gave the Commissary 6 shil., to 
 ihe soldiers something, and 'ere perfectly cleare of this frontiere 30 
 
 3 
 
34 THE CITY OF ANTWERP ; THE CHURCHES ; JESUIT COLLEGE. 
 
 Stivers to the man of war who lay blocking up the river 'twixt Lillo and 
 the opposite sconce called Liflcinshoeck. 
 
 4 Oct. We passed several Spanish Forts, out of one of which came 
 some Dons, to whom I shewed my Spanish passe, which was signed 
 by one, and I gave him 6 guilders. We pass'd by another man of war, 
 to which we lower'd our topsails ; and at length ariv'd at Antwerp. 
 
 The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient. I lost little 
 tyme, but with the conduct of one Mr. Lewkner visited divers 
 Churches, CoUedges, Monasteries, &c. The Church of the Jesuits is 
 most sumptuous and magnificent, a glorious fabriq without, and within 
 wholly incrusted with marble, inlay'd and polish'd into divers repre- 
 sentations of histories, landskips, flowers, &c. On the high altar is 
 plac'd the Statue of the B. Virgin and our Saviour in white marble. 
 The quire is a glorious piece ; the pulpit is supported by foure angels, 
 and adorn'd with other carvings. There are rare pictures by Rubens, 
 now lately deceased, and divers votive tables and reliques. The tower 
 jf Notre Dame d'Anvers, which is the Cathedrall Church, is a very 
 venerable fabriq, built after the Gotick manner ; the Tower is of an 
 excessive heighth. I assended it to take a better view of the country. 
 The sun shon exceeding hot, and darted the rayes without any inter- 
 mission, affording so bright a reflection to us who were above, and had 
 a full prospect of both land and water about it, that I was much con- 
 firmed in my opinion of the moon's being of some such substance as 
 this earthy globe consists of; perceiving all the subjacent countrv, at 
 so small a horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light as I could 
 hardly look against, save where the river, and other large water within 
 our view, appeared of a more dark and uniforme colour, resembling 
 those spotts in the moone supposed to be seas there, according to our 
 new philosophy, and viewed by optical glasses. 
 
 We went to see Jerusalem Church, affirmed to have been founded by 
 one who, upon divers greate wagers, went to and fro betweene that Cittj 
 and Antwerp on foote, by which he procur'd greate sums of mony, 
 which he bestow'd in this pious structure. Hence to St. Mary's 
 Chapell, where I had some conference with two English Jesuites, Con- 
 fessors to Coll. Gage his regiment. These Fathers conducted us to the 
 Cloyster of religious women, where we heard a Dutch sermon at a 
 Quarantia, or exposure of the Sacrament as they tearme it. The Senat- 
 house of this Citty is a very spacious and magnificent building. 
 
 5 Oct. I vissited the Jesuits schole, which for the fame of their 
 method &; institution I had greately desir'dto see. They were divided 
 into 4 classes with a several inscription over each ; as, i. Ad majorem 
 Dei gloriam; over the 2d, Princeps diligentiiB j the 3d, Imperator 
 Byzantiorumj over the 4th and upmost, Imperator Romanorum. 
 Under these the scholars and pupils had their places or formes, with 
 titles and priority according to their proficiency. Their dormitory and 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 35 
 
 lodgings above were exceeding neate. They have ptisons for the 
 offenders and lesse diligent ; a court to recreate themselves in, virherein 
 is an aviary of birds, eagles, foxes, monkeys, &c., to divert the boys at 
 their times of remission. To the house jojTi music and mathematical 
 scholes, and lastly a pretty chapell. The great streete is built after a 
 mere Italian mode, and is very faire and noble, cleane and sweete. 
 
 The Oesters house, belonging to the East India Company, is a most 
 beautifull palace, adorn'd with more than 300 windows. From hence 
 walking into the Gun-garden, I was suffered to see as much of the 
 Citadell as is easily permitted to strangers. It is a matchless piece of 
 modem fortification, accommodated with logiaments for the souldiers 
 and magazines. The graffs, ramparts, and platforms, are stupendious. 
 Returning by the shop of Plantine, I bought some bookes for the name- 
 sake onely of that famous printer. 
 
 But there was nothing about this Citty which more ravished me than 
 those delicious shades and walkes of stately trees, which render the 
 fortified workes of the towne one of the sweetest places in Europ ; nor 
 did I ever observe a more quiet, cleane, elegantly built, and civil place, 
 then this magnificent and famous Citty of Antwerp. In the evening I 
 was invited to Signor Duert's, a Portuguese by nation, an exceeding 
 rich merchant, whose palace I found to be fumish'd like a prince's ; 
 his three daughters entertain'd us with rare musiq, vocal & instru- 
 mental, which was finish'd with a handsome collation. I tooke leave 
 of the Ladys, and of sweete Antwerp, as late as it was, embarquing for 
 Bruxelles on the Scheld, in a vessel which delivered us to a second 
 boate (in another river) drawn or tow'd by horses. In this passage we 
 frequently chang'd our barge, by reason of the bridges thwarting oui 
 course. Here I observed numerous families inhabiting their vessels,, 
 and floating dwellings, so built and divided by cabins, as few houses, 
 on land enjo/d better accommodation, stor'd with all sorts of utensills, 
 neate chambers, a pretty parlour, and kept so sweete that nothing; 
 could be more refreshing. The rivers on which they are drawne are; 
 vei-y cleare & still waters, and passe through a most pleasant country 
 on both the bankes. We had in our boate a very good ordnary, and* 
 excellent company. The cutt is straight as a line for 20 English miles.. 
 What I much admir'd was, neere the midway, another artificial river,, 
 which intersects this at right angles, but on an eminence of ground, , 
 and is carryed in an aqueduct of stone so far above the other as that 
 the waters neither mingle nor hinder one another's passage. 
 
 At Villefrow all the passengers went on shore to wash at a fountaine 
 issuing out of a pillar, and then came aboard again. On the margin . 
 of this long tract are aboundance of Shrines and Images, defended 
 from the injuries of the weather by niches of stone in which they are 
 placed. 
 7 Oct. We arriv'd at Bruxelles at 9 in the morning. The State ■ 
 
36 AT BRUXELLES ; ITS COURTS, HALLS, AND PARKS. 
 
 house, neere the market-place, is for the carving in freestone a most 
 laborious and finished piece, well worthy observation. The flesh- 
 shambles are also built of stone. I was pleased with certain small 
 engines by which a girl or boy was able to draw up, or let downe, 
 greate bridges, which in divers parts of this Citty crossed the channell, 
 for the benefit of passengers. The walls of this Town are very intyre, 
 and full of towers at competent distances. The Cathedrall is on a very 
 high and exceeding steepe ascent, to which we mounted by faire stepps 
 of stone. Hence I walked to a Convent of English Nunns, with whom 
 I sate discoursing most part of the afternoone. 
 
 8 Oct. being the morning I came away, I went to see the Prince's 
 Court, which is an ancient, confus'd building, not much unlike the 
 Hofft at the Hague ; there is here likewise a very large Hall, where 
 they vend all sorts of wares. Through this we passed by the Chapell, 
 which is indeed rarely arch'd, and in the middle of it was the hearse or 
 catafalco of the late Arch-Dutchesse, the wise & pious Clara Eugenia. 
 Out of this we were conducted to the lodgings, tapistry'd with incom- 
 parable arras, and adorn'd with many excellent pieces of Rubens, old 
 and young Breughel, Titian, and Stenwick, with stories of most of the 
 late actions in the Netherlands. 
 
 By an accident we could not see the Library. There is a faire ter- 
 race which looks to the Vine-yard, in which, on pedestalls, are fix'dthe 
 statues of all the Spanish Kings of the House of Austria. The oppo- 
 site walls are paynted by Rubens, being an history of the late tumults 
 tn. Belgia ; in the last piece the Arch-Dutchesse shutts a greate payre 
 of gates upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, arm'd, and in a 
 menacing posture. On another, the Infanta is seen taking leave of Don 
 Philip. 
 
 From hence we walked into the Parke, which for being intirely 
 within the walls of the Citty is particularly remarkable ; nor is it less 
 pleasant than if in the most solitary recesses, so naturally is it furnish'd 
 with whatever may render it agreeable, melancholy, and country-like. 
 Here is a stately heronry, divers springs of water, artificial cascades, 
 rocks, grotts, one whereof is composed of the extravagant rootes of 
 trees cunningly built and hung together. In this Parke are both 
 fallow and red deare. 
 
 From hence we were led into the Manege, and out of that into 
 a most sweete and delicious garden, where was another grott, of more 
 neate and costly materials, full of noble statues, and entertaining us 
 with artificial musiq ; but the hedge of water, in forme of lattice-worke, 
 which the fontanier caused to ascend out of the earth by degrees, 
 exceedingly pleased and surpris'd me, for thus with a pervious wall, or 
 rather a palisad hedge, of water, was the whole parterre environ'd. 
 
 There is likewise a faire Aviary, and in the court next it are kept 
 divers sorts of animals, rare 5: exotic fowle, as eagles, cranes, storks, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 37 
 
 bustards, pheasants of several kinds, a duck having 4 -wings, &c. 
 In another division of the same close, are rabbits of an almost perfect 
 yellow colour. 
 
 There was no Court now in the Palace, the Infante Cardinal, who 
 was the Governor of Flanders, being dead but newly, and every one in 
 deepe mourning. 
 
 At near 1 1 o'clock, I repaired to his Majesty's Agent Sir Hen. De 
 Vic, who very courteously receiv'd me and accommodated me with a 
 coach & six horses, which carried me from Bruxelles to Cant, where it 
 was to meete my Lord of Arundel, Earle Marshal of England, who had 
 requested me when I was at Antwerp to send it for him, if I went not 
 thither myselfe. 
 
 Thus taking leave of Bruxelles and a sad Court, yet full of gallant 
 persons (for in this small Cittye the acquaintance being universal, Ladys 
 and Gentlemen, I perceiv'd,had greate diversons and frequent meetings), 
 I hasted towards Gant. On the way I met with divers little wagons 
 prettily contrived and full of pedling merchandises, drawne by mastive- 
 dogs, harnessed compleately like so many coach-horses, in some 4, in 
 others 6, as in Bruxelles itselfe I had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as 
 I remember, 4 dogs draw 5 lusty children in a charriot : the master 
 commands them whither he pleases, crying his wares about the streetes. 
 After passing through Ouse, by 6 in the evening I arriv'd at Ghent. 
 This is a Citty of so great a circumference that it is reported to be 7 
 leagues round, but there is not half of it now built, much reniaining in 
 fields and pastures, even within the wall, which has strong gates towards 
 the West, and two faire churches. 
 
 Here I beheld the Palace wherein John of Gaunt and Cha. V. were . 
 borne ; the statue of the latter stands in the Market-place, on an high 
 pillar, with his sword drawn, to which (I was told) the Magistrates and 
 Bergers were wont to repaire on a certaine day every yeare with roaps 
 about their necks, in toaken of submission & pennance for an old 
 Rebellion of theirs ; but now the hemp is changed to a blew ribbon. 
 Here is the Basilisco, or great Gun, so much talked of. The Ley and 
 the Scheldt meeting in this vast City divide it into 26 Islands, which 
 are united by many bridges, somewhat resembling Venice. This 
 night I supp'd with the Abbot of Andoyne, a pleasant and courteous 
 priest. 
 
 8 Oct. I passed by boate to Bruges, taking in at a redoutt a 
 convoy of 14 musketeers, because the other side of the river being 
 Contribution land, was subject to the inroads and depredations of the 
 bordering States. This river was cut by the famous Marquiss Spinola, 
 and is in my judgment a wonderfull piece of labour, and is a worthy 
 publiq worke, being in some places forced thro' the maine rock, to an 
 incredible depth, for 30 miles. At the end of each mile is built a small 
 redout, which communicates a line to the next, and so the whole way, 
 
38 AT BRUGES, OSTEND, DUNKIRK, DOVER, AND LONDON. 
 
 from whence we received many vollies of shot in compliment to my 
 Lord Marshall, who was in our vessel, a passenger with us. At 5 that 
 evening we were met by the Magistrates of Bruges, who came out to 
 convoy my Lord to his lodgings, where he was entertaynd that night 
 at their cost. 
 
 The morning after we went to see the State-house and adjoyning 
 Aquasduct, the Church, and Market-place, where we saw cheeses and 
 butter piled up in heapes ; also the Fortifications and Grafts, which are 
 extreamly large. 
 
 The 9th we arived at Ostend by a straighte and artificial river. 
 Here, with leave of the Captaine of the Watch, I was carried to survey 
 the river and harbour, with fortifications on one side thereof : the East 
 and South are mud & earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately 
 stood a memorable siege 3 years, 3 moneths, 3 weeks, & 3 dayes. I went 
 to see the Church of St. Peter, and the Cloysters of the Franciscans. 
 
 10 Oct. I went by wagon, accompany'd with a jovial Commissary, 
 to Dynkirk, the journey being made all on the sea sands. On our arrival 
 we first viewed the Court of Guards, the Workes, the Towne-house, 
 and the New Church ; the latter is very beautifuU within ; and another, 
 wherein they shew'd us an excellent piece of our Saviour's bearing the 
 Crosse. The Harbour in two channels coming up to the Towne was 
 choaked with a multitude of prizes. 
 
 From hence, the next day, I marched three English miles towards 
 the packet-boate, being a pretty fregat of 6 guns, which embarked us 
 for England about 3 in the afternoone. 
 
 At our going off, the Fort against which our pinnace ankered saluted 
 my Lord Marshall with 12 greate guns, which we answered with 3. 
 Not having the wind favourable, we ankered that night before Calais. 
 About midnight we weighed ; and at 4 in the morning, tho' not far 
 from Dover, we could not make the Peere till 4 in the afternoon, the 
 wind proving contrary and driving us Westward ; but at last we got on 
 shore, Oct. the 12th. 
 
 From Dover I that night rod post to Canterbery. Here I visited 
 the Cathedrall, then in great splendour, those famous windows being 
 intire, since demolish'd by the Phanatiqs. The next morning by 
 Sittinbourn I came to Rochester, and thence to Graves-end, where a 
 Light-horse-man (as they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide as far 
 as Greenwich. From hence, after we had a little refresh'd ourselves at 
 the CoUedge (for by reason of the contagion then in London we baulked 
 the Inns), we came to London, landing at Arundel-stayres : here I 
 took leave of his Lordship, and retyred to my lodgings in the Middle 
 Temple, being about 2 in the morning. 
 
 16 Oct. I went to see my brother at Wotton. On the 31st of that 
 moneth (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, which broke out on the 
 23rd) I was one and twenty yeares of age. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 39 
 
 7 Nov. I visited my Lord Marshal at Albury. 
 
 23 Nov. I returned to London ; and on the zjth saw his Majesty 
 ride thro' the Citty after his coming out of Scotland, and a Peace pro- 
 claym'd, with greate acclamations and joy of the giidy people. 
 
 15 Dec. I was elected one of the Comptrolers of the Middle 
 Temple-revellers, as the fashion of the young Students and Gentlemen 
 was, the Christmas being kept this yeare with greate solemnity ; but 
 being desirous to passe it in the Country, I got leave to resigne my 
 stafiFe of office, and went with my brother Richard to Wotton. 
 
 10 Jan. 1642. I gave a visite to my cousin Hatton of Ditton. 
 
 19. I went to London, where I stayed till 5th March, studying a 
 little, but dancing and fooling more. 
 
 3 Oct. I went to Chichester, and hence the next day to see the 
 Beige of Portsmouth, for now was that bloody difference betweene the 
 King and Parliament broken out, which ended in the fatal tragedy so 
 many yeares after. It was on the day of its being render'd to Sir 
 William Waller, which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of 
 Coll. Goring the Governor, now embarqueing for France. 
 
 From thence I went to South'ton and Winchester, where I vissited 
 the Castle, Schole, Church, and King Arthur's Round Table, but 
 especialy the Church, and its Saxon Kings Monuments, which I 
 esteemed a worthy antiquity. 
 
 3 Oct. was fought that signal Battaile at Edgehill. 
 
 1 2th Nov. was the Battle of Braineford surprisingly fought, and to 
 the greate consternation of the Citty had his Majesty (as twas believed 
 he would,) persu'd his advantage. I came in with my horse and armes 
 just at the retreate, but was not permitted to stay longer than the 15th 
 by reason of the Army's marching to Glocester, which would have left 
 both me and my brothers expos'd to ruine, without any advantage to 
 his Majesty. 
 
 7 Dec. I went from Wotton to London to see the so much celebrated 
 line of communication, and on the loth returned to Wotton, no body 
 knowing of my having been in his Majs. Army. 
 
 1643. 10 March. I went to Hartingfordberry, to visite my cousin 
 Keightly. 
 
 II. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury's Palace at Hatfield, where 
 the most considerable rarity besides the house (inferior to few then m 
 England for its architecture) was the garden and vineyard rarely well 
 watered and planted. They also shewed us the picture of Secretary 
 Cecil in mosaiq worke, very well don by some Italian hand. 
 
 I must not forget what amazed us in the night before, viz. a shining 
 clowd in the ayre, in shape resembling a sword, the point reaching to 
 the North : it was as bright as the moone, the rest of the sky being 
 very serene. It began about 1 1 at night, and vanish'd not till about 
 one, being seen by all the South of England. 
 
40 IN LONDON— OBTAIN LICENCE TO TRAVEL— AT CALAIS. 
 
 I made many journies to and from London. 
 
 15 April. I went to Hatfield, and neere the Town of Hertford 1 
 went to see Sir J. Harris [Harrison] his house new built.' Returning 
 to London, I called to see his Majesty's house and gardens at Theo- 
 balds, since demolish'd by the rebels. 
 
 2nd May. I went to London, where I saw the furious and zelous 
 people demolish that stately Crosse in Cheapside. On the 4th I re- 
 tum'd, with no little regrett for the confusion that threaten'd us. 
 Resolving to possess myselfe in some quiet if it might be, in a time of 
 so great jealosy, I built by my Brother's permission a study, made a 
 fishpond, an island, and some other solitudes and retirements, at Wotton, 
 which gave the first occasion of improving them to those water-works 
 and gardens which afterwards succeeded them. 
 
 12 July. I sent my black manage horse and furniture with a friend 
 to his Majestie then at Oxford. 
 
 23. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myselfe ; but finding 
 it impossible to evade the doing very unhandsome things, and which 
 had been a greate cause of my perpetual motions hitherto between 
 Wotton & London, Oct. 2nd I obtained a lycence of his Majestie, 
 dated at Oxford and sign'd by the King, to travail againe. 
 
 6 Nov. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir Ralph Whitfield's, at 
 Blechinglee, (whither both my Brothers had conducted me), I ariVd at 
 London on the 7th, and 2 days after took boate at the Tower-wharfe, 
 which carry'd me as far as Sittingburne, tho'not without danger, I being 
 onely in a payre of oares, expos'd to a hideous storme ; but it pleas'd 
 God we got in before the perill was considerable. From thence I went 
 by post to Dover, accompany'd with one Mr. Thicknesse, a very deare 
 friend of mine. 
 
 Having a reasonable good passage, though the weather was snowy 
 and untoward enough, we came before Calais, where, as we went on 
 shore, misUking the tyde, our shallop struck on the sands, with no 
 little danger, but at length we got off. 
 
 Calais is well fortified, in the old Castle and new Citadell, reguarding 
 the Sea. The haven consists of a long banke of sand, lying opposite to 
 it. The Market-place and the Church are remarkable things, besides 
 the reliques of our former dominion there. I remember there was 
 engraven in stone on the front of an ancient dwelling which was shew'd 
 us, these words in English, God save the King, with the name of the 
 architect and date. The walls of the towne are substantial, but the 
 situation towards the land is not pleasant, by reason of the marishes 
 and low grounds about it. 
 
 12 Nov. After diner we tooke horse with the Messagere, hoping to 
 
 1 Now called Balls Park, belonging to Lord John Townshend, who inherits it from his 
 grandmother, Lady Viscountess Townshend, who was a Miss Harrison, and wife to Charlc* 
 Viscount Townshend, Secretary of State to G<orge II 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 41 
 
 have ariv'd at BoUogne that night ; but there fell so great a snow, 
 accompanied with hayle, rain, and suddaine darknesse, that we had 
 much adoe to gain the next village ; and in this passage being to crosse 
 a vally by a causeway and a bridge built over a small river, the raine 
 that had fallen making it an impetuous streame for neere a quarter of 
 a mile, my horse slipping had almost been the occasion of my perish- 
 ing. We none of us weat to bed, for the souldiers in those parts 
 leaving little in the villages, we had enough to do to get ourselves dry 
 by morning, between the tire and the fresh straw. The next day early 
 we ariv'd at BoUogne. 
 
 This is a double towne, one part on a high Rock, or downes, the 
 other, caU'd the Lower Towne, is yet with a greate declivity towards 
 the Sea. There is a strong Castle on a notable eminence. Under the 
 towne runs the river, which is yet but an inconsiderable brooke. Hen. 
 8th. in the siege of this place is said to have used those greate leatherne 
 guns which I have since seen in the Tower of London, inscribed Noti 
 Marie opus est, cut non deficit Merctirius, if at least the history be true, 
 which my Lord Herbert in his History doubts. 
 
 The next morning, in some danger of party's [Spanish] surprising 
 us, we came to Monstreuil, built on the sum'it of a most conspicuous 
 hill, environ'd with faire and ample meadows, but all the suburbs had 
 been from time to time ruin'd, and were now lately burnt by the Spa- 
 nish inroads. This towne is fortified with 2 very deep dry ditches ; the 
 walls about the bastions and citadel are a noble piece of masonry. 
 
 The Church is more glorious without then within. The Market- 
 place is large, but the inhabitants are miserably poore. The next day 
 we came to Abbeville, having pass'd all this way in continual expecta- 
 tion of the volunteeres, as they call them. This Towne affords a good 
 aspect towards the hill from whence we descended, nor does it deceive 
 us, for it is handsomely built, and has many pleasant and useful 
 streames passing through it, the maine river being the Some, which 
 discharges itselfe into the Sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the 
 towne. The principal Church is a very handsome piece of Gothiq 
 architecture, and the ports and ramparts planted for ornament. They 
 brought us choice of guns and pistolls to sell at reasonable rates, and 
 neately made, being here a merchandize of greate account, the towne 
 abounding in gun-smiths. 
 
 Hence we advanced to Beauvais, a town of good noate, and having 
 the first vineyards we had seen. The next day to Beaumont, and the 
 morrow to Paris, having taken our repast at St. Denys, 2 leagues from 
 that greate Citty. St. Denys is considerable only for its stately Cathe- 
 dral, and the dormitory of the French Kings, there inhum'd as ours at 
 Westminster Abbey. The treasury is esteemed one of the richest in 
 Europe. The Church was built by King Dagobert, but since much 
 enlarged, being now 390 foote long, 100 in bredth and 80 in height. 
 
42 THE TREASURES OF THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. UENYS. 
 
 without comprehending the cover ; it has a very high shaft of stone, 
 and the gates are of brasse. In the choir are the sepulchres of the 
 most ancient Kings ; without it are many more ; amongst the rest that of 
 Bertrand du Guesclin, Constable ol France ; in the Chapell of Charles 
 V. all his posterity, and neere him the magnificent sepulchre of Francis 
 I. with his children, warres, victories, and triumphs, engraven in marble. 
 Above, are bodies of several Saints ; below, under a state of black 
 velvet, the late Lewis xiij. Every one ot the lo chapels, or oratories, 
 had some Saints in them ; amongst the rests, one of the Holy Inno- 
 cents. The treasury is in the sacristy above, in which are crosses of 
 massy gold and silver, studded with precious stones, one of gold 3 feet 
 high. Amongst the still more valuable reliques are a naile from our 
 Saviour's Cross, in a box of gold full of precious stones ; a crucifix of 
 the true wood of the Crosse, carved by Pope Clement III. inchas'd in a 
 crystal covered with gold ; a box in which is some of the Virgin's 
 haire ; some of the linnen in which our blessed Saviour was wrapped 
 at his nativity ; in a huge reliquary modelled like a church, some of 
 our Saviour's blood, hair, cloathes, linnen with which he wiped the 
 Apostles feet ; with many other equally authentic reliques. Amongst 
 the treasures is the Crowne of Charlemagne, his 7 foote high scepter 
 and hand of justice, his sword, belt, and spurrs of gold ; the Crowne of 
 St. Lewis, cover'd with precious stones, amongst which is one vast 
 ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 300 carrats, (under which 
 is set one of the thorns of our blessed Saviour's crowne,) his sword, 
 seal, and hand of justice. The 2 crownes of Hen. IV. his sceptre, 
 hand of justice, and spurrs. The 2 crowns of his son Lewis. In the 
 cloak royal of Anne of Bretagne is a very greate and rare rubie. 
 Divers bookes cover'd with solid plates of gold and studded with 
 precious stones. Two vasas of berill, 2 of achate, whereof one is 
 esteemed for its bignesse, colour, and carving imboss'd, the best now to 
 be scene ; by a special favour I was permitted to take the measure & 
 dimensions of it ; the story is a Bachanalia. It is really antique. 
 There is a large gundola of chrysolite, a huge urn of porphyry, another 
 of chalcedone, a vasa of onyx, the largest I had ever seen of that stone; 
 2 of chrystal ; a morsel of one of the water-pots in which our Saviour 
 did his first miracle ; the effigies of the Queen of Saba, of Julius, 
 Augustus, Marc Antony, Cleopatra, and others, upon saphyrs, topazes, 
 agates, and cornelians ; that of the Queen of Saba has a Morish face ; 
 those of Julius and Nero on achates rarely colour'd and cut. A cup 
 in which Solomon was us'd to drinke. Apollo on a great amethyst. 
 There lay in a window a miroir of a kind of stone said to have belonged 
 to the poet Virgil. Charlemayne's chessemen, full of Arabic charac- 
 ters. In the presse next the doore, the brasse lanthorn full of crystals, 
 said to have conducted Judas and his company to apprehend our B. S. 
 A faire unicorne's horn, sent by a K. of Persia, about 7 foote long. In 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 43 
 
 another presse (over which stands the picture in oil of their Orleans 
 Amazon with her sword), the effigies of the late French Kings in wax, 
 like ours in Westminster, covered with their robes, with a world of 
 other rarities. Having rewarded our courteous fryer, we tooke horse 
 for Paris, where we ariv'd about five in the afternoone. In the way 
 were faire crosses of stone carv'd with fleurs de lys at every furlong's 
 end, where they affirme St. Denys rested and layd down his head after 
 martyrdom, carrying it from the place where this monastery is builded. 
 We lay at the Ville de Venice ; I went to visite Sir Richard Browne, 
 his Majesties Resident with the French King. 
 
 5 Dec. The Earl of Norwich, formerly Geo. Lord Goring, came as 
 Ambassador Extraordinary ; I went to meet him in a coach and six 
 horses, at the palace of Mons. de Bassompiere, where I saw that gallant 
 person, his gardens, terraces, and rare prospects. My lord was waited 
 on by the master of the ceremonies, and a greate cavalcade of men of 
 quality, to the Palais Cardinal, where on the 23d he had audience of 
 the French King and the Queen Regent his mother, in the golden 
 chamber of presence. From thence I conducted him to his lodgings in 
 Rue St. Denys, and so tooke my leave. 
 
 24. I went to see the Isle encompassed by the Seine & the Oyse. The 
 City is divided into 3 parts, whereof the Towne is greatest. The City 
 lyes between it and the University, in form of an island. Over the 
 Seine is a stately bridge called Pont Neuf, begun by Hen. 3. in 1578, 
 finished by Hen. 4. his successor. It is all of hewn free stone found 
 imder the streets, but more plentifully at Mont-Martyre, and consists 
 of 12 arches, in the midst of which ends the poynt of an island, on 
 which are built handsome artificers houses. There is one large pas- 
 sage for coaches, and 2 for foot passengers 3 or 4 feet higher, and of 
 convenient breadth for 8 or 10 to go abreast. On the middle of this 
 stately bridge on one side stands that famous statue of Hen. the Great 
 on horseback, exceeding the natural proportion by much ; and on the 
 4 faces of a stately pedestal, (which is compos'd of various sorts ot 
 polish'd marble and rich mouldings,) inscriptions of his victories and 
 most signal actions are engraven in brasse. The statue and horse are 
 of copper, the worke of the greate John di Bologna, and sent from 
 Florence by Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo the 2d, unkle & cousin to 
 Mary di Medices, the wife of this K. Henry. It is inclos'd with a 
 strong and beautifull grate of yron, about which there are allways 
 mountebancs shewing their feates to idle passengers. From hence is 
 a rare prospect towards the Louver and suburbs of St. Germaines, the 
 Isle of du Palais, and Notre Dame. At the foote of this bridge is a. 
 water house, on the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of our 
 Saviour and the Woman of Samaria powring water out of a bucket. 
 Above is a very rare dyal of severall motions, with a chime, &c. The 
 water is convey'd by huge wheeles, pumps, and other engines, from 
 
44 THE CATHEDRAL, NOTRE DAME DE PARIS. 
 
 the river beneath. The confluence of the people and multitude oi 
 coaches passing every moment over the bridge, to a new spectator is 
 an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there are, as that of Notre 
 Dame ; and the Pont au Change, &c. fairly built, vv'ith houses of stone 
 which are laid over this river: only the Pont St. Anne, landing the 
 suburbs of St. Germaine at the Thuilleries, is built of wood, having 
 likewise a water-house in the middst of it, and a statue of Neptune 
 casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much inferior to the 
 Samaritane. 
 
 The University lyes S.W. on higher ground, contiguous to, but the 
 lesser part of Paris. They reckon no less than 65 Colleges, but they 
 in nothing approach ours at Oxford for state and order. The book- 
 sellers dwell within the University. The Scholes (of which more 
 hereafter) are very regular. 
 
 The suburbs are those of St. Denys, Honore, St. Marcel, Jaques, 
 St. Michel, St. Victoire, and St. Germaines, which last is the largest, 
 and where the nobility and persons of the best quality are seated ; and 
 truely Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the material the houses 
 are built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of the most 
 gallant Cittyes in the world ; large in circuit, of a round forme, very 
 populous, but situated in a botome, environ'd with gentle declivities, 
 rendering some places very dirty, and making it smell as if sulphure 
 were mingled with the mud ; yet it is paved with a kind of free-stone, 
 of neere a foote square, which renders it more easy to walk on than 
 our pebles in London. 
 
 On Christmas eve I went to see the Cathedrall of Notre Dame, 
 erected by Phihp Augustus, but begun by K. Robert, son of Hugh 
 Capet. It consists of a Gotiq fabriq, supported by 120 pillars, which 
 make 2 ailes in the Church round about the quire, without comprehend- 
 ing the Chapells, being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100 high. The 
 Quire is enclos'd with stone worke graven with the sacred history, and 
 containes 45 Chapells cancell'd with iron. At the front of the chiefe 
 entrance are statues in relievo of the Kings, 28 in number, from Childe- 
 bert to the founder, Philip ; and above them are two high square 
 Towers, and another of a smaller size, bearing a Spire in the middle, 
 where the body of the Church formes a Crosse. The greate Tow'r is 
 ascended by 389 steps, having 12 gallerys from one to the other. They 
 greatly reverence the Crucifix over the skreene of the Quire, with an 
 image of the B. Virgin. There are some good modem paintings hang- 
 ing on the pillars : the most conspicuous statue is the huge Colosse of 
 St. Christopher, with divers other figures of men, houses, prospects, & 
 rocks, about this gygantiq piece, being of one stone, and more remark- 
 able for its bulke than any other perfection. This is the prime Church 
 of France for dignity, having Arch-deacons, Vicars, Canons, Priests, 
 and Chaplaines in good store, to the number of 127. It is also the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 45 
 
 Palace of the Archbishop. The young King (Louis XIV.) was there 
 with a greate and martial guard, who enter'd the Nave of the Church 
 ^vith drums and fifes, at the ceasing of which I was entertain'd with 
 the church musiq. 
 
 1644. 4 January. I pass'd this day with one Mr. Jo. Wall, an Irish 
 gentleman, who had been a Frier in Spaine, and afterwards a Reader 
 in St. Isodors Chayre at Rome, but was, I know not how, getting away, 
 and pretending to be a Souldier of fortune, an absolute Cavaliere, 
 having as he told us been Capt. of Horse in Germany. It is certaine 
 he was an excellent disputant, and so strangely given to it that nothing 
 could passe him. He would needes perswade me to goa with him this 
 morning to the Jesuites CoUedge, to witness his polemical talent. We 
 found the Fathers in their Church at the Rue St. Anthoine, where one 
 of them shew'd us that noble fabriq, which for its cupola, pavings, in- 
 crustations of marble, the pulpit, altars (especially the high altar), 
 organ, lavatorium, &c. but, above all, the richly carv'd and incom- 
 parable front, I esteeme to be one of the most perfect pieces of archi- 
 tecture in Europ, emulating even some of the greatest now at Rome 
 itself; but this not being what our Frier sought, he led us into the ad- 
 >oyning Convent, where having shew'd us the Library, they began a 
 very hot dispute on some poynts of Divinity, which our Cavalier con- 
 tested onely to shew his pride, and to that indiscreete height that the 
 Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach, they being put beside all 
 patience. The next day we went into the University, and into the 
 College of Navarre, which is a spacious well-built quadrangle, having 
 a very noble Library. 
 
 Thence to the Sorbonne, an antient fabriq built by one Robert de 
 Sorbonne, whose name it retains, but the restauration which the late 
 Cardinal de Richlieu has made to it renders it one of the most excellent 
 modeme buildings ; the sumptuous Church, of admirable architecture, 
 is far superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole designe of 
 the Church is very magnificent. 
 
 We went into some of the Scholes, and in that of Divinity we found 
 a grave Doctor in his chaire, with a multitude of auditors, who all write 
 as he dictates ; and this they call a Course. After we had sate a little, 
 our Cavalier started up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the 
 Doctor ; at which, and especialy as he was clad in the Spanish habit, 
 which in Paris is the greatest bugbare imaginable, the Scholars & 
 Doctor fell into such a fit of laughter that nobody could be heard 
 speake for a while ; but silence being obtain'd, he began to speake 
 Latine, and make his apology in so good a style, that their derision 
 was tum'd to admiration, & beginning to argue, he so baffled the Pro- 
 fessor, that with universal applause they all rose up and did him greale 
 honors, waiting on us to the very streete and our coach, testifying 
 greate satisfaction. 
 
46 THE EXCHANGE, PALAIS, CHAPELL, MARAIS DE TEMPLE. 
 
 3 Feb. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to the build- 
 ings is very noble, but the gallerys where they sell their petty merchan- 
 dize are nothing so stately as ours at London, no more than the place 
 where they walke below, being onely a low vault. 
 
 The Palais, as they call the upper part, was built in the time of 
 Philip the Faire, noble and spacious. The greate Hall annex'd to it 
 is arched with stone, having a range of pillars in the middle, round 
 which and at the sides are shops of all kinds, especialy Bookesellers. 
 One side is full of pewes for the Clearkes of the Advocates, who 
 swarme here (as ours at Westminster). At one of the ends stands an 
 altar, at which Masse is said daily. Within are several Chambers, 
 Courts, Treasuries, &c. Above that is the most rich and glorious Salle 
 d'Audience, the Chamber of St. Lewis, and other superior Courts 
 where the Parliament sits, richly guilt on embossed carvings & fretts, 
 and exceeding beautified. 
 
 Within the place where they sell their wares is another narrower 
 gallery full of shopps and toys, &c. v/hich lookes downe into the Prison 
 yard. Decending by a large payre of stayres, we passed by St. Cha- 
 pelle, which is a Church built by St. Lewis, 1242, after the Gotiq 
 manner ; it stands on another Church which is under it, sustain'd by 
 pillars at the sides, which seeme so weak as to appear extraordinary in 
 the artist. This ChapeU is most famous for its Relicques, having, as 
 they pretend, almost the intyre Crowne of Thornes ; the Achat Patine, 
 rarely sculptur'd, judg'd one of the largest & best in Europ. There 
 was now a very beautifull Spire erecting. The Court below is very 
 spacious, capable of holding many coaches, and surrounded with 
 shopps, especially Engravers, Goldsmiths, and Watchmakers. In it 
 is a fayre Fountaine & Portico. The Isle du Palais consists of a tri- 
 angular brick building, whereof one side, looking to the river, is in- 
 habited by Goldsmiths. Within the court are private dwellings. The 
 front looking on the greate bridge is possessed by Mountebanks, 
 Operators, and Puppetplayers. On the other part is the every day's 
 market for all sorts of provisions, especially bread, hearbs, flowers, 
 orange-trees, choyce shrubbs ; here is a shop called Noah's Arke, 
 where are sold all curiosities naturall or artificial, Indian or European, 
 for luxury or use, as cabinets, shells, ivory, porselan, dried fishes, 
 insects, birds, pictures, and a thousand exotic extravagances. Passing 
 hence we viewed the Port Dauphine, an arch of excellent workman- 
 ship ; the street, bearing the same name, is ample and straite. 
 
 4 Feb. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where is a noble 
 Church and Palace, heretofore dedicated to the Knights Templars, 
 now converted to a Piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden, 
 but larger and not so pleasant, tho' built all about with divers con- 
 siderable palaces. 
 
 The Church of St. Genevieve is a place of greate devotion, dedicated 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 47 
 
 to another of their Amazons sayd to have deliver'd the Citty from the 
 EngUsh, for which she is esteem'd the tutelary Saint of Paris. H 
 stands on a steepe eminence, having a very high spire, and is govern'd 
 by Canons Regular. 
 
 At the Palais Royale Hen. IV. built a faire quadrangle of stately 
 Palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of a spacious area stands 
 on a noble pedestal, a brazen Statue of Lewis XIII. which tho' made 
 in imitation of that in the Roman Capitol, is nothing so much esteem'd 
 as that on the Pont Neuf. 
 
 The Hospital of the Quinz-Vingts in Rue St. Honorfe is an excellent 
 foundation ; but above all is the Hotel Dieu for men and women, neare 
 Notre Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the 
 Charity gave me great satisfaction in seeing how decently and Chris- 
 tianly the sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen 
 them served by noble persons, men and women. They have also gar- 
 dens, walks, & fountaines. Divers persons are here cutt for the stone 
 with greate successe yearly in May. The 2 Chasteletts (supposed to 
 have been built by Julius Cassar) are places of Judicature in Criminal 
 Causes, to which is a strong Prison. The Courts are spacious and 
 magnificent. 
 
 8 Feb. I took coach and went to see the famous Jardine Royale, 
 which is an enclosure walled in, consisting of all varieties of ground for 
 planting and culture of medical simples. It is well chosen, having in 
 it hiUs, meadows, wood and upland, naturall and artificial, and is richly 
 stor'd with exotic plants. In the middle of the Parterre is a faire 
 fountaine. There is a very fine house, chapel, laboratory, orangery, & 
 other accommodations for the President, who is allways one of the 
 King's cheife Physitians. 
 
 From hence we went to the other side of the towne, and to some 
 distance from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the Bastille, which 
 is the Fortresse Tower and Magazine of this great Citty. It is very 
 spacious within, and there the Grand Master of the Artillery has his 
 house, with faire gardens and walks. 
 
 The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble Castle, with 
 magnificent apartments, fit for a Royal Court, not forgetting the 
 Chapell. It is the chiefe Prison for persons of quality. About it there 
 is a parke walled in, fuU of deere, and in one part is a grove of goodly 
 pine-trees. 
 
 The next day I went to see the Louvre with more attention, its 
 severall Courts and Pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun by Hen. 
 IV. and finish'd by his son and grandson, is a superb but mix'd struc- 
 ture. The cornices, mouldings, & compartments, with the insertion ot 
 severall colour'd marbles, have been of great expence. 
 
 We went through the long gallery, pav'd with white & black marble, 
 richly fretted and paynted a fresca. The front looking to the river, 
 
43, THE THUILLERIES ; ROYAL APARTMENTS ; CREATE GARDEGN. 
 
 Iho' of rare worke for the carving, yet wants of that magificence which 
 a plainer and truer designe would have contributed to it. 
 
 In the Cour aux Thuilleries is a princely fabriq ; the winding 
 geometrical stone stayres, with the cupola, I take to be as bold and 
 noble a piece of architecture as any in Europ of the kind. To this is a 
 Corps de Logis, worthy of so greate a Prince. Under these buildings, 
 thro' a garden in which is an ample fountaine, was the King's printing- 
 house, and that famous letter so much esteem'd. Here I bought divers 
 of the classiq authors, poets & others. 
 
 We return'd through another gallery, larger, but not so long, where 
 hung the pictures of all the Kings and Queenes and prime Nobility of 
 France. 
 
 Descending hence, we went into a lower very large room, call'd the 
 Salle des Antiques, which is a vaulted Cimelia, destin'd for statues 
 only, amongst which stands the so celebrated Diaiza of the Epkesians, 
 said to be the same which utter'd oracles in that temple. There is 
 a huge globe suspended by chaynes. The pavings, inlayings, and in- 
 crustations of this Hall are very rich. 
 
 In another more privat garden towards the Queene's apartment is a 
 walke or cloyster under arches, whose terrace is paved with stones of a 
 greate breadth ; it looks towards the river, and has a pleasant aviary, 
 fountaine, stately cypresses, &c. On the river are seene a prodigious 
 number of barges and boates of great length, full of hay, corne, wood, 
 •vine, &c. Under the long gallery dwell goldsmiths, paynters, sta- 
 tuaries, and architects, who being the most famous for their art in 
 Christendom, have stipends allowed them by the King. We went into 
 that of Monsieur Saracin, who was moulding for an image of a Madona 
 to be cast in gold, of a greate size, to be sent by the Queene Regent to 
 Lauretto, as an offering for the birth of the Dauphine, now the young 
 King of France. 
 
 I finish'd this day with a walke in the greate garden of the Thuil- 
 leries, which is rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or company, by 
 groves, plantations of tall trees, especialy that in the middle, being of 
 elmes, another of mulberys. There is a labyrinth of cypresse, noble 
 hedges of pomegranates, fountaines, fishponds, and an aviary. There 
 is an artificial echo, redoubhng the words distinctly, and it is never 
 without some faire nymph singing to it. Standing at one of the focus's, 
 which is under a tree, or little cabinet of hedges, the voice seems to 
 descend from the clouds ; at another as if it was under-ground. This 
 being at the bottom of the garden, we were let into another, which 
 being kept with all imaginable accuratenesse as to the orangery, pre- 
 cious shrubes, and rare fruites, seem'd a paradise. From a tarrace in 
 this place we saw so many coaches, as one would hardly think could 
 be maintained in the whole Citty, going, late as it was in the year, 
 towards the Course, which is a place adjoyning, of neere an English 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 49 
 
 nnile long, planted with 4 rows of trees, making a large circle in the 
 middle. This Course is walled about, neere breast high, with squar'd 
 freestone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, with sculpture and 
 statues about it, built by Mary di Medices. Here it is that the 
 gallants and ladys of the Court take the ayre and divert themselves, as 
 with us in Hide Park, the circle being capable of containing an hundred 
 coaches to turne commodiously, and the larger of the plantations for 5 
 or 6 coaches a brest. 
 
 Returning through the Thuilleries, we saw a building in which are 
 kept wild beasts for the King's pleasure, a beare, a wolfe, a wild boare, 
 a leopard, &c. 
 
 27 Feb. Accompany'd with some English gentlemen we tooke horse 
 to see St. Germains en Lay, a stately country-house of the King, some 
 
 5 leagues from Paris. By the way we alighted at St. Cloes, where, on 
 an eminence neere the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a garden, for 
 the house is net very considerable, rarely water'd and furnish'd with 
 fountaines, statues, and groves ; the walkes are very faire ; the foun- 
 tain of Laocoon is in a large square pool, throwing the water neere 40 
 feet high, and having about it a multitude of statues and basines, and 
 is a surprising object ; but nothing is more esteem'd than the cascade 
 falling from the greate stepps into the lowest and longest walke from 
 the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a grotto, or shell house, on the 
 summit of the hill, whe*ein are divers water-workes and contrivances to 
 wet the spectators ; this is covered with a fayre cupola, the walles 
 paynted with the Muses, and statues placed thick about it, whereof 
 some are antiq and good. In the upper walkes are two perspectives, 
 seeming to enlarge the allys. In this garden are many other con- 
 trivances. The Palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The outer 
 walles onely paynted a fresca. In the Court is a Volary, and the 
 statues of Charles IX. Hen. III. IV. and Lewis XIII. on horseback, 
 mezzo-relievod in plaster. In the garden is a small chapell ; and 
 under shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere 
 original, with others. From the tarrace above is a tempest well 
 paynted, and there is an excellent prospect towards Paris, the meadows, 
 
 6 river. 
 
 At an inn in this village is an host who treats all the greate persons 
 in princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but they pay well for it, as 
 I have don. Indeed the entertainment is very splendid, and not un- 
 reasonable, considering the excellent marmer of dressing their meate, 
 and of the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revellings, 
 being out of observance. 
 
 About a league farther we went to see Cardinal Richelieu's villa at 
 Ruell. The house is small, but fairely built, in form of a castle, moated 
 round. The offices are towards the road, and over against are large 
 vineyards walled in. 
 
50 CARDINAL RICHELIEU'S VILLA ; ITS ATTRACTIONS ; ST. GERMAINS. 
 
 Though the house is not of the greatest, the gardens about it are so 
 magnificent that I doubt whether Italy has any exceeding it for all 
 rarities of pleasure The garden nearest the pavilion is a parterre, 
 having in the middst divers noble brasse statues, perpetually spouting 
 v/ater into an ample bassin, with other figures of the same metal ; but 
 what is most admirable is the vast enclosure, and variety of ground, in 
 the large garden, containing vineyards, cornefields, meadows, groves, 
 (whereof one is one of perennial greens), and walkes of vast lengthes, 
 so accurately kept and cultivated, that nothing can be more agreeable. 
 On one of these walkes, within a square of tall trees, is a basilisc ' of 
 copper, which managed by the fountainere casts water neere 60 feet 
 high, and will of itself move round so swiftly, that one can hardly 
 escape wetting. This leads to the Citroniere, where is a noble conserve 
 of all those rarities ; and at the end of it is the Arch of Constantine, 
 painted on a wall in oyle, as large as the real one at Rome, so well 
 don that even a man skill'd in painting may mistake it for stone and 
 sculpture. The skie and hills which seem to be betweene the arches 
 are so naturall that swallows and other birds, thinking to fly through, 
 have dashed themselves against the wall. At the further part of this 
 walke is that plentiful though artificial cascade which rolls down a very 
 steepe declivity, and over the marble steps and bassins, with an aston- 
 ishing noyse and fury ; each basin hath a jetto in it, flowing like sheetes 
 of transparent glasse, especialy that which rises over the greate shell of 
 lead, from whence it glides silently downe a channell thro' the middle of 
 a spacious gravel walke terminating in a grotto. Here are also foun- 
 taines that cast water to a great height, and large ponds, 2 of which 
 have islands for harbour of fowles, of which there is store. One of 
 these islands has a receptacle for them built of vast pieces of rock, 
 neere 50 feet high, growne over with mosse, ivy, &c. shaded at a com- 
 petent distance with tall trees, in this the fowles lay eggs and breede. 
 We then saw a large and very rare grotto of shell-worke, in the shape 
 of satyres and other wild fancys : in the middle stands a marble table, 
 on which a fountaine playes in forms of glasses, cupps, crosses, fanns, 
 crownes, &c. Then the fountaineere represented a showre of raine 
 from the topp, mett by small jetts from below. At going out two extra- 
 vagant musqueteeres shot us with a streme of water from their musket 
 barrells. Before this grotto is a long poole into which ran divers 
 spouts of water from leaden escoUop bassins. The viewing this para- 
 dise made us late at St. Germains. 
 
 The first building of this palace is of Cka. V. called the Sage ; but 
 Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it compleate, speaking as to the 
 style of magnificence then in fashion, which was with too greate a mix- 
 ture of the Gotic, as may be seen in what there is remaining of his in 
 the old Castle, an irregular peace as built on the old foundation, and 
 
 1 The imaginary animal or serpent bo called. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. JI 
 
 having a moate about it. It has yet some spacious & handsome 
 roomes of state, & a chapell neately paynted. The new Castle is at 
 some distance, divided from this by a court, of a lower but more 
 modern designe, built by Hen. IV. To this belong 6 tarraces built of 
 brick & stone, descending in cascads towards the river, cut out of the 
 naturallhill, having under them goodly ^■aulted galleries ; of these, 4 have 
 subterranean grotts & rocks, where are represented several! objects in 
 the manner of sceanes, and other motions by force of water, shewn by 
 the light of torches onely ; amongst these is Orpheus, with his musiq, 
 & the animaUs, which dance after his harp ; in the second is the King 
 and Dolphin (Dauphin) ; in the third is Neptune sounding his trum- 
 pet, his charriot drawne by sea-horses ; in the fourth Perseus & 
 Andromeda ; mills ; hermitages ; men fishing ; birds chirping ; and 
 many other devices. There is also a dry grott to refresh in, all having a 
 fine prospect towards the river and the goodly country about it, especialy 
 the forrest. At the bottom is a parterre ; the upper tarrace neere 
 half a myle in length, with double declivities, arched and baluster'd 
 with stone, of vast and royal cost. 
 
 In the Pavilion of the new Castle are many faire roomes, well 
 paynted, and leading into a very noble garden and parke, where is a 
 pall-maill, in the midst of which, on one of the sides, is a Chapell, 
 with stone cupola, tho' small, yet of an handsome order of architec- 
 ture. Out of the parke you goe into the forrest, which being very 
 large is stor'd with deare, wild boares, wolves, and other wild game. 
 The Tennis Court, and Cavalerizzo for the menag'd horses, are also 
 observable. 
 
 We return'd to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the King's, built by 
 Francis I. and called by that name to absolve him of his oath that he 
 would not go from Madrid, in which he was prisoner in Spayne, but 
 from whence he made his escape. This house is also built in a park, 
 waUed in. We next called in at the Bonnes hommes, well situated, 
 with a faire Chapel and Library. 
 
 I March. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace in the Rue 
 de Seine, which is well built. Towards his study and bedchamber 
 joynes a little garden, which tho' very narrow, by the addition of a well 
 painted perspective is to appearance greatly enlarged ; to this there is 
 another part, supported by arches, in which runs a streame of water, 
 rising in the aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to flow for some miles, 
 by being artificially continued in the painting, when it sinkes downe at 
 the wall. It is a very agreeable deceipt. At the end of this garden is 
 a little theater, made to change -Kith divers pretty seanes, and the stage 
 so ordered that with figures of men & women paynted on light-boards, 
 and cut out, and, by a person who stands underneath, made to act as 
 if they were speaking, by guiding them, & reciting words in diferent 
 tones as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet, where 
 
52 ART TREASURES, PAINTINGS, ETC. PROTESTANT TEMPLE. 
 
 was a neate invention for reflecting lights by lining divers sconces with 
 thin shining plates of gilded copper. 
 
 In one of the rooms of state was an excellent paynting of Poussin, 
 being a Satyre kneeling; over the chimney, the Coronation of Ike 
 Virgin by Paulo Veroneze : another Madona over the dore, and that 
 of Jos. by Cigali ; in the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta attended by hit 
 page, sayd to be of Mich. Angelo : the Rape of Proserpine, with a very 
 large landskip of Corregio. In the next roome some payntings of 
 Primaticcio, especially the Helena, the naked Lady brought before A lex- 
 ander, well paynted, and a Ceres. In the bedchamber a picture of the 
 Cardinal de Liancourt of Raphael, rarely colour'd. In the cabinet are 
 divers pieces of Bassano, 2 of Polemburg, 4 of Paulo Brill, the skyes a 
 little too blew. A Madona of Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone; 
 a Judith of Mantegna ; 3 Women of Jeronimo ; one of Stenwick ; a 
 Madona after Titian, and a Magdalen of the same hand, as the Count 
 esteemes it ; 2 small pieces of Paulo Veroneze, being the Martyrdomt 
 of St. Justina & St. Catherine,; a Madona of Lucas Van Leyden, sent 
 him from our King ; 6 more of old Bassano ; 2 excellent drawings of 
 Albert ; a Magdalen of Leonardo da Vinci ; 4 of Paulo : a very rare 
 Madona of Titian, given him also by our King ; the Ecce Homo, shut 
 up in a frame of velvet, for the life and accurate finishing exceeding all 
 description. Some curious medals, and a chaplet of admirable inven- 
 tion, the intaglias being all on fruit-stones. The Count was so ex- 
 ceeding civill that he would needes make his Lady goe out of her 
 dressing-roome, that he might shew us the curiosities and the 
 pictures in it. 
 
 We went thence to visite one Mons. Perishot, one of the greatest 
 virtuosos in France, for his collection of pictures, achates, medalls, and 
 flowers, especially tulips & anemonies. The chiefest of his payntings 
 was a Sebastian of Titian. 
 
 From him we went to Mons. Frene's, who shew'd us many rare 
 drawings, a Rape of Helen in black chalke ; many excellent things of 
 Sneider ; some of Julio & Michael Angelo ; a Madona of Passignano ; 
 some things of Parmensis, & other masters. 
 
 The next morning being recommended to Mons. de Hausse, Pre- 
 sident du Parliament, and once Ambassador at Venice for the French 
 King, we were very civily receiv'd, and shew'd his Library. Amongst 
 his paintings were, a rare Venus &> Adonis of Veroneze, a St. Anthony 
 after the first manner of Corregio, and a rare Madona of Palma. 
 
 Sunday 6 March. I went to Charenton, 2 leagues from Paris, to 
 hearre&see the manner of the French Protestant Churches service. 
 The place of meeting they call the Temple, a very faire and sptcious 
 roome, built of free-stone, very decently adorn'd with payntings of the 
 Tables of the Law, the Lords Prayer & Creede. The pulpit stands at 
 the upper end in the middle, having an enclosure of seates about it, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 53 
 
 where the Elders, & persons of greatest quality and strangers, sit ; the 
 rest of the congregation on formes & low stooles, but none in pewes as 
 in our Churches, to their greate disgrace & nothing so orderly, as here 
 the stooles & other comber are remov'd when the assembly rises. I 
 was greatly pleas'd with their harmonious singing the Psalms, which 
 they all learn perfectly well, their children being as duely taught as 
 their Catechisme. 
 
 In our passage we went by that famous bridge over the Mama, where 
 echo retumes the voice of a good singer 9 or 10 times. 
 
 7 March. I went with some company towards Fontainebleau, a 
 sumptuous palace of the King's, like ours of Hampton Court, about 
 14 leagues from the Citty. By the way we pass through a Forest so 
 prodigiously encompass'd with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone, 
 heaped one on another in mountainous heights, but I think the like is 
 not to be found elsewhere. It abounds with staggs, wolves, boares, 
 & not long after a lynx or ounce was kill'd amongst them, which had 
 devoured some passengers. On the summit of one of these gloomy pre- 
 cipices, intermingl'd with trees and shnibs, the stones hanging over, 
 & menaceing ruine, is built an Hermitage. In these solitudes rogues 
 frequently lurke & do mischiefe (& for whom we were all well 
 appoynted with our carabines), but we arived safe in the evening at 
 the village, where we lay at the Home, going early next morning to 
 the Palace. 
 
 This house is nothing so stately and uniforme as Hampton Court, 
 but Francis I. began much to beautifie it ; most of all. Hen. IV. and 
 not a little the late King. It abounds with faire halls, chambers, and 
 gallerys ; in the longest, which is 360 foote long, and 18 broad, are 
 paynted the Victories of that great Prince Hen. IV. That of Francis I. 
 call'd the grand Gallery, has all the King's Palaces paynted in it ; above 
 these, in 60 pieces of excellent worke in fresca is the History of Ulysses, 
 from Homer, by Primaticcio in the tyme of Hen. III. esteemed the 
 most renown'd in Europ for the designe. The Cabinet is full of excellent 
 pictures, especialy a Woman of Raphael. In the Hall of the Guards is 
 a piece of tapistry painted on the wall, very naturally, representing the 
 Victorys of Cha. VII. over our countrymen. In the Salle des Festins 
 is a rare Chimny-piece, & Hen. IV. on horseback, of white marble, 
 esteemed worth 18,000 crowns ; dementia & Pax, nobly don. On 
 columns of jasper, 2 lions of brasse. The new Stayres, and a halfe 
 circular Court, are of modern and good architecture, as is a ChapeU 
 built by Lewis XIII. all of jasper, with several incrustations of marble 
 in the inside. 
 
 Having scene the roomes we went to the Volary, which has a cupola 
 in the middle of it, greate trees and bushes, it being full of birds who 
 drank at two fountaines. There is a faire Tennis Court & noble Stables ; 
 but the beauty of all are the Gardens. In the Court of the Fountaines 
 
SA FONTAINEBLEAU, ITS ATTRACTIONS. CORBEIL, NORMANDY. 
 
 Stand divers antiquities and statues, especialy a Mercury. In the 
 -Queenes Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountaine, with numerous other 
 brasse statues. 
 
 The Create Garden, i8o toises long and 154 wide, has in the centre 
 a fountayne of Tyber of a Colossean figure of brasse, with tlie Wolfe 
 over Romulus & Rhemus. At each corner of the garden rises a foun- 
 taine. In the Garden of the Fish Pond is a Hercules of white marble. 
 Next is the Garden of the Pines, and without that a Canale of an 
 English mile in length, at the end of which rise 3 jettos in the form of 
 a fleur de lys, of a great height ; on the margin are excellent walkes 
 planted with trees. The carps come familiarly to hand [to be fed]. 
 Hence they brought us to a spring, which they say being first discover'd 
 by a dog, gave occasion of beautifying this place, both with the Palace 
 and Gardens. The rocks at some distance in the Forest yeald one of 
 the most august & stupendous prospects imaginable. The Parke about 
 this place is very large, & the Towne is full of noblemen's houses. 
 
 Next morning we were invited by a Paynter, who was keeper of the 
 pictures and rarities, to see his owne collection. We were lead thro' a 
 gallery of old Rosso's worke, at the end of which, in another cabinet, 
 were 3 Madonas of Raphael, and 2 of Andrea del Sarto. In the 
 Academy where the Paynter himselfe wrought, was a S/. Michael of 
 Raphael, very rare ; St. Jo. Baptist of Leonardo, & a Woman's head; 
 a Queene of Sicily &= St. Margaret of Raphael ; 2 more Madonas, 
 whereof one ver)' large, by the same hand ; some more of del Sarto ; a 
 .5"/. Jerome of Perino del Vaga ; the Rape of Proserpine, very good ; 
 and a greate number of drawings. 
 
 Returning part of our way to Paris that day, we visited an house 
 cal'd Maison Rouge, having an excellent prospect, grott, & fountaines, 
 one whereof rises 50 feet, & resembles the noise of a tempest, battailles 
 of gunns, &c. at its issue. 
 
 We went to Essone, a house of Monsieur Essling, who is a greate 
 Vertuoso ; there are many good payntings in it, but nothing so observ- 
 able as his gardens, fountaines, fishe-pooles, especialy that in a triangular 
 forme, the water cast out by a multitude of heads about it ; there is a 
 noble cascade and pretty bathes, with all accommodations. Under a 
 marble table is a fountaine of serpents twisting about a globe. 
 
 We alighted next at Corbeil, a towne famous for the siege of Hen. 
 IV. Here we slept, & return'd next morning to Paris. 
 
 18 March. I went with Sir Jo. Cotton, a Cambridg-shire Knight 
 a journey into Normandy. The first day we passed by Gaillon, the 
 Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The gardens are highly commended, 
 but we did not go in, intending to reach Pontoise by dinner. This 
 towne is built in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the Oize, 
 and is well refresh'd with fountaines. 
 
 This is the first towne in Normandy, and the farthest that the Vine- 
 
THE DIARY Of JOHN EVELYN. 55 
 
 yfards extend to on this side of the country, which is fuller of playnes, 
 wood and enclosures, with some townes towards the sea, very like 
 England. 
 
 We lay this night at a vilage call'd Magny. The next day, descending 
 a very steepe hill, we din'd at Fleury, and after rode 5 leagues downe 
 St. Catharine, to Rouen, which affords a goodly prospect to the ruines 
 of that chapell & mountaine. This country so abounds with wolves, 
 that a shepherd whom we met told us one of his companions was 
 strangled by one of them the day before, & that in the midst of his 
 flock. The feilds are mostly planted with pears & apples & other cider 
 fruites. It is plentifully furnish'd with quarries of stone & slate, & hath 
 iron in abundance. 
 
 I lay at the White Crosse in Rouen, which is a very large Citty, on 
 the Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, call'd the Aubelt and Lobes. 
 There stand yet the ruines of a magnificent bridge of stone, now sup- 
 ply'd by one of boates only, to which come up vessells of considerable 
 burthen. The other side of the water consists of meadows, and there 
 have the Reformed a Church. 
 
 The CathedraU Nostre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, by 
 the English ; some English words graven in Gotic characters upon 
 the front seeme to confirm it. The Towers & whole Church are 
 full of carving. It has 3 steeples with a pyramid ; in one of these 
 I saw the famous bell so much talk'd off, 13 foote in height, 32 round, 
 the diameter II, weighing 40,000 pounds. In the Chapel d'Amboise, 
 built by a Cardinal of that name, lies his body, with several 
 faire monuments. The Quire has behind it a greate dragon 
 paynted on the wall, which they say had don much harme to the in- 
 habitants till vanquished by St. Remain their Archbishop, for which 
 there is an annual procession. It was now neere Easter, and many 
 images were expos'd with scenes & stories representing the Passion, 
 made up of little puppets, to which there was great resort and devotion, 
 with offering. Before the Church is a faire Palace. — St. Owen is an- 
 other goodly Church and an Abbey with fine gardens. Here the King 
 hath lodgings when he makes his progresse through these 'parts. The 
 structure where the Court of Parliament is kept is very magnificent, 
 containing very faire halles & chambers, especialy La Chambre d'Orde. 
 The Towne-houee is also well built, and so are some gentlemen's 
 houses ; but most part of the rest are of timber, like our merchants of 
 London, in the wooden part of the Citty. 
 
 21 March. On Easter Monday we din'd at Totes, a solitary inn 
 between Rouen & Diepe, at which latter place we arived. This towne 
 is situated betweene two mountaines, not unpleasantly, and is washed 
 on the North by our Enghsh seas. 
 
 The Port is commodious, but the entrance is difficult. It has one 
 ample and faire streete, in which is a pretty church. The Fort PoUet 
 
56 DIEPPE ; HAVRE DE GRACE ; CAEN, TOWN AND ABBEY. 
 
 consists of a strong earth-worke, and commands the Haven, as on the 
 other side dos the Castle, which is also well fortified, with the Citadel 
 before it ; nor is the Towne itself a little strong. It abounds with 
 workmen, who make and sell curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shells ; 
 & indeed whatever the East Indies afford of cabinets, purcelan, 
 natural & exotic rarities, are here to be had with abundant choyce. 
 
 23 March. We pass'd along the Coast by a very rocky and rugged 
 way, which forc'd us to alight many times before we came to Havre de 
 Grace, where we lay that night. 
 
 The next morning we saw the Citadel, strong and regular, well 
 stored with artillery, &c. The works furnish'd with faire brasse 
 canon, having a motto. Ratio ultima Reginn. The allogiaments of 
 the garrison are uniforme ; a spacious place for drawing up the soldiers, 
 a pretty chapell, and a faire house for the Governor. The Duke of 
 Richelieu being now in the fort, we went to salute him ; who receiv'd 
 us very civily, and commanded that we should be show'd whatever we 
 desired to see. The Citadel was built by the late Card, de Richelieu, 
 unkle of the present Duke, and is very strong. The haven is very 
 capacious. 
 
 We embarqued ourselves and horses to passe to Honfleur, about 4 
 or 5 leagues distant, where the Seine falls into the Sea. It is a poore 
 fisher towne, remarkable for nothing so much as the odd yet usefuU 
 habites which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as 
 of raggs at Dieppe, and all along these coasts. 
 
 25 March. We arriv'd at Caen, a noble and beautifuU towne, on the 
 river Orne, which passes quite thro' it, the 2 sides of the towne joyn'd 
 only by a bridg of one arch. We lay at the Angel, where we were 
 very well us'd, the place being abundantly furnish'd with provisions at 
 a cheape rate. 
 
 The most considerable object is the great Abby and Church, large 
 and rich, built after the Gotic manner, having two spires and middle 
 lanterne at the West end, all of stone. The quire round and large, 
 in the centre whereof, elevated on a square, handsome, but plain 
 sepulchre, is this inscription : 
 
 " Hoc Sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi Conquestoris, 
 Gulielmi, dum viveret Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Caenomano- 
 rumque Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris : Cum 
 anno 1562 vesano hereticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem 
 nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam 
 beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, anno D'ni 1642. D'no Johanne 
 de Baulhache ascetarii Protopriore. P.D.D.P." 
 
 On the other side are these monkish rhymes : 
 
 " Qui rexit rigidos Normanos, atq. Britanos 
 Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 57 
 
 Et Casnomanenses virtute coercuit enses, 
 
 Imperiique sui legibus applicuit, 
 Rex magus parva jacet hie Gulielmus in urna, 
 
 Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino. 
 
 Ter septem gradibus se volverat, atq. duobus 
 
 Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hie obiit." 
 
 We went to the Castle, which is strong and fayre, and so is the 
 Towne-house, built on the bridg which unites the two townes. Here 
 are Scholes and an University for the Jurists. 
 
 The whole Towne is handsomly built of that excellent stone so 
 well knowne by that name in England. I was lead to a pretty garden, 
 planted with edges of Alaternus, having at the entrance a skreene at 
 an exceeding height, accurately cutt in topiary worke, with well under- 
 stood Architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, freezes, and other 
 ornaments, with greate curiosity ; some of the columns wreathed, 
 others spiral, all according to art. 
 
 28 March. We went towards Paris, lying the first night at Evreux, 
 a Bishop's seate, an ancient Towne, with a faire Cathedral. 
 
 The next day we arrived at Paris. 
 
 I April. I went to see more exactly the roomes of the fine Palace 
 of Luxemburge, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains, built by Mary de 
 Medices, and I think one of the most noble, entire, and finish'd piles, 
 that is to be seen, taking it with the garden and all its accomplish- 
 ments. The gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history of 
 the Foundresses life, rarely designed ; at the end of it is the Duke of 
 Orleans's Library, well furnished with excellent bookes, all bound in 
 maroquin and gilded, the valans of the shelves being of greene velvet 
 fring'd with gold. In the cabinet joyning it are onely the smaler 
 volumes, with 6 cabinets of medails, and an excellent collection of 
 shells, and achates, whereof some are prodigiously rich. This Duke 
 being very learn'd in medails and plants, nothing of that kind escapes 
 him. There are other spacious, noble, and princely furnish'd roomes, 
 which looke towards the gardens, and which are nothing inferior to 
 the rest. 
 
 The Court below is formed into a square by a corridor, having over 
 the chiefe entrance a stately cupola, covered with stone ; the rest is 
 cloistered and arch'd on pillasters of rustiq worke. The tarrace 
 ascending before the front paved with white & black marble, is balus- 
 tred with white marble, exquisitely polish'd. 
 
 Onely the Hall below is lowe, and the stayrecase somewhat of an heavy 
 desigiie, but the faciata towards the parterre, which is also arched 
 & vaulted v\dth stone, is of admirable beauty, and full of sculpture. 
 
 The Gardens are neere an English mile in compasse, enclos'd with 
 a stately wall, and in a good ayre. The parterre is indeed of box, but 
 so rarely design'd and accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes 
 
58 THE BEAUTY OF THE GARDENS OF PALAIS DE LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 a wonderful effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided into 4 
 squares, & as many circular knots, having in the center a noble basin 
 of marble neere 30 feet diameter (as I remember), in which a triton ot 
 brasse holds a dolphin that casts a giran4ola of water neere 30 foote 
 high, playing perpetualy, the water being conveyd from Arceuil by 
 an aqueduct of stone, built after the old Roman magnificence. About 
 this ample parterre, the spacious walkes & all included, runs a border 
 of freestone, adorned with pedestalls for potts and statues, and part 
 of it neere the stepps of the terrace, with a raile and baluster of pure 
 white marble. 
 
 The walkes are exactly faire, long, & variously descending, and so 
 justly planted with limes, elms, & other trees, that nothing can be 
 more delicious, especialy that of the hornebeam hedge, which being 
 high and stately, butts fuU on the fountaine. 
 
 Towards the farther end is an excavation intended for a vast fish- 
 pool, but never finish'd. Neere it is an inclosure for a garden of 
 simples, well kept, and here the Duke keepes tortoises in greate 
 number, who use the poole of water on one side of the garden. Here 
 is also a conservatory for snow. At the upper part towards the 
 Palace is a grove of tall elmes cutt into a starr, every ray being a 
 walk, whose center is a large fountaine. 
 
 The rest of the ground is made into severall inclosures (all hedge- 
 worke or rowes of trees) of whole fields, meadowes, boxages, some of 
 them containing divers acres. 
 
 Next the streete side, and more contiguous to the house, are knotts 
 in trayle or grasse worke, where likewise runs a fountaine. Towards 
 the grotto and stables, within a wall, is a garden of choyce flowers, 
 in which the Duke spends many thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing 
 is wanting to render this palace and gardens perfectly beautiful! & mag- 
 nificent ; nor is it one of the least diversions to see the number of 
 persons of quality, citizens and strangers, who frequent it, and to whom 
 all accesse is freely permitted, so that you shall see some walkes & 
 retirements full of gallants and ladys ; in others melancholy fryers ; in 
 others studious scholars ; in others jolly citizens, some sitting or lying 
 on the grasse, others runing, jumping, some playing at bowles and 
 ball, others dancing and singing ; and all this without the least dis- 
 turbance, by reason of the largeness of the place. 
 
 What is most admirable is, you see no gardners or men at worke, 
 and yet all is kept in such exquisite order as if they did nothing 
 else but work ; it is so early in the morning, that all is dispatch'd and 
 don without the least confusion'. 
 
 I have been the larger in the description of this Paradise, for the 
 extraordinary delight I have taken in those sweete retirements. The 
 Cabinet and Chapell neerer the garden front have some choyce pic- 
 tures. All the houses neere this are also noble paiace.s, especialy /t'///< 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EYELYN. 59 
 
 Luxemburge. The ascent of the streete is handsome from its breadth, 
 situation, and buildings. 
 
 I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques steeple, 
 esteem'd the highest in the towne, from whence I had a full view of 
 the whole Citty and suburbs, both which, as I judge, are not so large 
 as London : though the dissimilitude of their formes and situations, 
 this round, London long, renders it difficult to determine ; but there 
 is no comparison between the buildings, palaces, and materials, this 
 being entirely of stone and more sumptuous, tho' I esteeme our piazza's 
 to exceede their's. 
 
 In St. Innocent's Church-yard, where the story of the devouring 
 quality of the ground (consuming bodys in 24 hours), the vast charnells 
 of bones, tombs, piramids, and sepulchres, took up much of my time, 
 together with the hieroglyphical characters of Nicholas Flamen's philo- 
 sophical worke, who had founded this church, and divers other cha- 
 ritable workes, as he testifies in his booke. 
 
 Here divers clarks get their livelyhood by inditing letters for poor 
 mayds and other ignorant people who come to them for advise, and 
 to write for them into the Country, every large grave-stone serving 
 for a table. Joyning to this Church is a com'on fountaine, with good 
 relievo's on it. 
 
 The next day I was carried to see a French gentleman's curious col- 
 lection, which abounded in faire & rich jewels of all sorts of precious 
 stones, most of them of greate sizes and value ; achates & onixes, 
 some of them admirably colour'd & antique ; nor inferior were his 
 landskips from the best hands, most of which he had caused to be 
 copy'd in miniature ; one of which, rarely painted on stone, was broken 
 by one of our company, by the mischance of setting it up ; but such 
 was the temper & civility of the gentleman, that it altered nothing ot 
 his free & noble humor. 
 
 The next morning I went to the Garden of Monsieur Morine, who 
 from being an ordinary gardner is become one of the most skillful and 
 curious persons in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, & 
 insects. 
 
 His Garden is of an exact oval figure, planted with cypresse cutt flat 
 & set as even as a wall : the tulips, anemonies, ranunculus's, crocus's, 
 &c. are held to be of the rarest, and draw all the admirers of such 
 things to his house during the season. He lived in a kind of Hermit- 
 age at one side of his garden, where his collection of purselane and 
 coral, whereof one is carved into a large Crucifix, is much esteemed. 
 He has also bookes of prints, by Albert [Durer], Van Leyden, Calot, 
 &c. His collection of all sorts of insects, especially of Butterflys, is 
 most curious ; these he spreads and so medicates that no corruption 
 invading them, he keepes them in drawers, so plac'd as to represent a 
 beautiful! piece of tapistre. 
 
6o PALAIS CARDINAL; BOIS DE BOULOGNE; LOIRE, PARIS. 
 
 He shew'd me the remarks he had made on their propagation, which 
 he promis'd to pubhsh. Some of these, as also of his best flowers, he 
 had caus'd to be painted in miniature by rare hands, and some in oyle 
 
 I went to see divers of the fairest Palaces, as that ofVendosme, verp 
 large and stately ; Longueville ; Guyse ; Condi ; Chevereuse ; Nevers, 
 esteem'd one of the best in Paris towards the river. 
 
 I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by Richelieu to the 
 King, on condition that it should be called by his name ; at this time 
 the King resided in it, because of the building of the Louvre. It is a 
 very noble house, tho' somewhat low ; the gallerys, paintings of the ; 
 most illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queenes bathes, presence 
 chamber with its rich carved and gilded roofe, theatre, & large garden, 
 in which is an ample fountaine, grove, and maille, are worthy of 
 remark. Here I also frequently went to see them ride and exercise the 
 Create Horse, especialy at the Academy of Monsieur du Plessis, and 
 de Veau, whose scholes of that art are frequented by the Nobility; and 
 here also young gentlemen are taught to fence, daunce, play on musiq, 
 and something in fortification & the mathematics. The designe is 
 admirable, some keeping neere an hundred brave horses, all managed 
 to the greate saddle. 
 
 1 2th. 1 took coach to see a general muster of all the gens d'armes 
 about the Citty in the Bois de Boulogne before their Majesties and all 
 the Grandees. They were reputed to be neere 20,000, besides the 
 spectators who much exceeded them in number. Here they performed 
 all their motions, and being drawne up, horse & foote, into several 
 figures, represented a battell. 
 
 The sum'er now drawing neere, I determined to spend the rest of it 
 in some more remote towne on the river Loire ; and on 19 April I 
 tooke leave of Paris, and, by the way of the messenger, agreed for my 
 passage to Orleans. 
 
 The way, as indeed most of the roades in France, is paved with a 
 small square freestone, so that there is little dirt and bad roads, as in 
 England, onely 'tis somevvhat hard to the poor horses feete, which 
 causes them to ride more temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or 
 grand pas, as they call it. We passed several wall'd townes or villages ; 
 amongst others of note, Chartres and Estampes, where we lay the first 
 night. This has a faire church. 
 
 20 April. We had an excellent road, but had like to come short 
 home ; for no sooner were we entred two or three leagues into the 
 Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company 
 behind us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from the hedges and 
 frequent covert, slew foure upon the spot. This disaster made such an 
 alarme in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevost Martial, with his 
 assistants, going in persuite, brought in two whom they had shot, and 
 exposed them in the greate market-place, to see if any would take cog- 
 
THE DIAKY OF JOHN EVELYN. 6l 
 
 nuance of them. I had greate cause to give God thankes for this 
 escape. I lay at the White Lion, where I found Mr. John Nicholas, 
 eldest son to Mr. Secretary [Nicholas]. In the night a cat kitten'd on 
 my bed, and left on it a young one having six ears, eight leggs, two 
 bodys from the navil downwards, and two tayles. I found if: dead, but 
 warm, in the morning when I awaked. 
 
 21 April. The citty is well built of stone, on the side of the Loyre. 
 About the middle of the river is an island, full of walkes and faire trees, 
 with some houses. There is a stately stone bridge, reaching to the 
 opposite suburbs, built likewise on the edge of an hill, from whence is 
 a beautifull prospect. At one end of the bridge are strong toures, and 
 about the middle, on one side, is the statue of the Virgin Mary or Pieta, 
 with the dead Christ in her lap, as big as the life. At one side of the 
 Crosse kneeles Cha. VII. arm'd, and at the other Joan d'Arc, arm'd 
 like a cavalier, with boots and spurrs, her hayre dischevel'd, as the 
 deliveress of the towne from our countrymen, when they besieg'd it. 
 The figures are all cast in copper, with a pedistall full of inscriptions 
 as well as a faire columne joyning it, which is adorn'd with fleurs de 
 lys and a crucifix, with two saints proceeding as it were from two 
 branches out of its capital. The inscriptions on the Crosse are in. 
 Latinc : " Mors Christi in cruce nos a contagione labis et ffiturnorum 
 morborum sanavit." On the pedestal : " Rex in hoc signo hostes pro- 
 fligavit, et Johan'a Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab 
 impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. f." — 
 " Octannoq' Galliam servitute Britannica liberavit. A Domino factum 
 est illud, et est mirabili in oculis nostris ; in quoram memoria haec 
 nostras fidei Insignia." To this is made an annual procession on 12 May, 
 Masse being sung before it, attended with great ceremony and con- 
 course of people. The wine of this place is so strong, that the King's 
 cup-bearers are, as I was assured, sworne never to give the King any 
 of it ; but it is a very noble liquor, and much of it transported into 
 other countrys. The town is much frequented by strangers for the 
 greate purity of the language here spoken, as well as for divers other 
 priviledges ; and the University makes the towne much frequented by 
 strangers, especialy Germans, which causes the English to make no 
 long sojourne hear, except such as can drinke and debauch. The Citty 
 stands in the County of Beaulse, was once stiled a Kingdom, after- 
 wards a Dutchy, as at present, belonging to the second son of France. 
 Many Councils have been held here, and some Kings crown'd. The 
 University is very antient, divided now by the students into that of four 
 nations, French, High Dutch, Normans, and Picardins, who have each 
 their respective protectors, severall officers, Treasurers, Consuls, Seales, 
 &c. There are in it two reasonable faire publiq Libraries, whence one 
 may borrow a booke to one's chamber, giving but a note under hand, 
 which is an extraordinary custome, and a confidence that has cost 
 
62 CITY OF ORLEANS ; BLOIS ; PALACE OF CHAMBOURG. 
 
 many Libraries deare. Tlie first church I went to visit was St. Croix ; 
 it has been a stately fabric, but has been much ruin'd by the late Civil 
 Warrs. They report the towre of it to have been the highest in France- 
 There is the beginning of a faire reperation. About this cathedral! is a 
 very spacious cemeterie. The tovvne-hous is nobly built, with a high 
 tower to it. The market-place and streetes, some whereof are deli- 
 ciously planted with limes, are ample and straite, so well paved with a 
 kind of pebble, that I have not seen a neater towne in France. This 
 Citty was by Francis I. esteemed the most agreeable of his great 
 dominions. 
 
 28 April. Taking bo<ite on the Loir, I went towards Blois, the pas- 
 sage and river being both very pleasant. Passing Mehun, we dined at 
 Baugency, and slept at a little towne called St. Dieu. Quitting our 
 barke, we hired horses to Blois, by the way of Chambourg, a famous 
 house of the King's, built by Francis L in the middle of a solitary 
 parke, full of deere ; the enclosure is a wall. I was particularly desirous 
 of seeing this palace from the extravagance of the designe, especialy 
 the stayre-case mentioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen 
 were constantly employ'd in this fabric for twelve yeares : if so, it is 
 wonderful! that it was not finish'd it being no greater than divers gen- 
 tlemens houses in England, both for rome or circuit. The carvings 
 are very rich and full. The stayre-case is devised with four entries or 
 ascents, which cross one another, so that tho' four persons meete, they 
 never come in sight, but by small loopeholes, till they land. It con- 
 sists of 274 stepps (as I remember), and is an extraordinary worke, but 
 of far greater expense than use or beauty. The chimnys of the house 
 appeare like so many towres. About the whole is a large deepe 
 moate. The country about it full of corne and wine, with many faire 
 noblemens houses. 
 
 We ariv'd at Blois in the evening. The town is hilly, uneven, and 
 rugged. It stands on the side of the Loire, having suburbs joyn'd by 
 a stately stone bridg, on which is a pyramid with an inscription. At 
 the entrance of the castle is a stone statue of Lewis XII. on horseback, 
 as large as life, under a Gothic state ; and a little below are these 
 words : 
 
 ' Hie ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo 
 Sumpsit honorata regia sceptra manu : 
 Fselix quae tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis 
 Gallica non aiio principe digna fuit.' 
 
 Under this is a very wide payre of gates, nailed full of wolves and 
 wild-boars' heads. Behind the castle the present Duke Gastion had 
 begun a faire building, through which we walked into a large garden, 
 esteemed for its furniture one of the fairest, especialy for simples and 
 exotic plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight. On the riglit 
 hand is a longe gallery full of ancient statues and inscriptions, both of 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 63 
 
 marble andbrasse ; the length, 300 paces, divides the garden into higher 
 and lower ground, having a very noble fountaine. There is the por- 
 trait of an hai-t, taken in the forest by Lewis XII. which has 24 antlers 
 -on its head. In the Collegiate Church of St. Saviour we saw many 
 sepulchres of the Earls of Blois. 
 
 Sunday, being May day, we walked up into the Pall Mall, very long 
 And so nobly shaded with tall trees (being in the midst of a greate 
 ■wood), that, unless that of Tours, I had not seen a statelier. 
 
 From hence we proceeded with a friend of mine through the ad- 
 joyning forestt to see if we could meete any wolves, which are here in 
 such numbers that they often come and take children out of the very 
 streetes ; yet will not the Duke, who is sov'raigne here, permite them 
 to be destroy'd. We walked five or six miles outright, but met with 
 none ; yet a gentleman who was resting himselfe under a tree, with his 
 horse grazing by him, told us that, halfe an houre before, two wolves 
 had set upon his horse, and had in probability devour'd him, but for a 
 •dog which lay by him. At a little village at the end of this wood we 
 eat excellent creame, and visited a castle builded on a very steepe cliff. 
 
 Bloys is a towne where the language is exactly spoken ; the inhabit- 1;^ 
 ants very courteous ; the ayre so good, that it is the ordinary nursery I 
 •of the King's children. The people are so ingenious, that, for gold- 
 smith's worke and watches, no place- in France affords the like. The 
 pastures by the river are very rich and pleasant. 
 
 2 May. We took boate, passing by Charmont, a proud castle on 
 the left hand ; before it is a sweete island, deliciously shaded with tall 
 trees. A little distance from hence we went on shore at Ambois, a very 
 Agreeable village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue slate, 
 as the towns on the Loyre generally are ; but the castle chiefely invited 
 us, the thicknesse of whose towers, from the river to the top, was 
 .admirable. We enter'd by the draw-bridg, which has an invention to 
 let one fall, if not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious cham- 
 bers, and one stayre-case, is large enough, and sufficiently com'odious 
 ■to receive a coach, and land it on the very towre, as they told us had 
 been don. There is some artillery. In the ancient chapell is a stag's 
 head or branches, hung up by chayns, consisting of twenty brow ant- 
 lers, the beame bigger than a man's middle, and of an incredible 
 length. Indeed it is monstrous, and yet I cannot conceive how it 
 ■should be artificial ; they show also the ribs and vertebrae of the same 
 beast ; but these might be made of whalebone. 
 
 Leaving the Castle we pass'd Mont Louis, a village having no house 
 above ground, but such onely as are hewn out of the maine rocks 
 which are of excellent free-stone. Here and there the funnell of a 
 chimny appears on the surface amongst the vineyards which are over 
 •them, and in this manner they inhabite the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, 
 •vn one side of the river for many miles. 
 
64 TOURS; ITS ATTRACTIONS. STOP THERE. SILK-WOR&-S. 
 
 We now come within sight of Tours, where we were design'd for the 
 rest of the time I had resolv'd to stay in France, the sojournment being 
 so agreeable. Tours is on the easy side of an hill on the river Loyre, 
 having a faire bridge of stonu. called St. Edme ; the streetes are very 
 long, straite, spacious, well built, & exceeding cleane ; the suburbs 
 large and pleasant, joyn'd to the citty by another bridg. Both the 
 Church and Monastry of St. Martin are large, of Gothic building, having 
 4 square towers, faire organs, and a stately altar where they shew the 
 bones and ashes of St. Martine, with other reliques. The Mall without 
 comparison is the noblest in Europe for length and shade, having 7 
 rowes of the tallest and goodliest elms I had ever beheld, the inner- 
 most of which do so embrace each other, & at such a height, that 
 nothing can be more solemn and majestical. Here we play'd a party 
 or two, and then walked about the Towne walles, built of square stone, 
 fiU'd with earth, & having a moate. No citty in France exceeds it in 
 beauty or delight. 
 
 6 May. We went to St. Gratian, reported to have been built by our 
 countrymen ; the dyal and clock-work are much esteem'd. The 
 Church has two handsom towres & spires of stone, and the whole fabric 
 is very noble & venerable. To this joynes the Palace of the Arch- 
 bishop of old and new building, with many faire roomes, and a faire 
 garden. Here I grew acquainted with one Mons. Merey, a very good 
 Musitian. The Archbishop treated me very courteously. We visited 
 divers other Churches, Chapells, & Monasteries, for the most part 
 neatly built, and full of pretty payntings, especialy the Convent of 
 the Capucines, which has a prospect over the whole Citty and many 
 faire walks. 
 
 8th. I went to see their manufactures in Silke (for in this towne 
 they drive a very considerable trade with silk-wormes), their pressing 
 & watering the grograms and chambletts, with weights of an extra- 
 ordinary poyse, putte into a rolling engine. Here I took a master of the 
 language and studied the tongue very diligently recreating myself 
 sometimes at the Maill, and sometymes about the Towne. The house 
 opposite my lodging had been formerly a Palace of the King's, the 
 outside was totaly cover'd with fleurs de lyes, emboss'd out of the 
 stone. Here Mary de Medici had her Court when she was compell'd 
 to retire from Paris by the persecution of the Cardinal. 
 
 25. Was the FUe Dieu, and a goodly procession of all the religious 
 orders, the whole streetes hung with their best tapistrys, and their 
 most precious moveables expos'd ; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and 
 pictures in abundance ; the streets strew'd with flowres, and full of 
 pageantry, banners, and bravery. 
 
 6 June. I went by water to visit that goodly and venerable Abby 
 of Marmoustier, being one of the greatest in the Kingdome. There is 
 a large Church of stone, with a very high pyramid. Amongst other 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 6$ 
 
 reliques the Menkes shew'd us is the Holy Ampoule, the same with 
 that which sacres their Kings at Rhemes, this being the one which 
 anoynted Hen. IV. Ascending many stepps we went into the Abbot's 
 Palace, where we were shew'd a vast Tun (as big as that at Heidel- 
 berg), which they report St. Martin (as I remember) filled from one 
 cluster of grapes growing there. 
 
 7. We walked about 2 miles from the Citty to an agreeable soli- 
 tude called du Plessis, a house belonging to the King. It has many 
 pretty gardens, full of nightingales. In the Chapell lyes buried the 
 famous Poet Ronsard. 
 
 Returning, we stepp'd into a Convent of Franciscans called St. 
 Cosmo, where the Cloister is painted with the miracles of their St 
 Francis k Paula, whose ashes lie in their Chapell, with this inscrip- 
 tion : 'Corpus Sancti Fran, k Paula 1507. 13 Aprihs. concrematur 
 verb ab Haereticis anno 1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hie jacent.' 
 The tomb has 4 small pyramids of marble at each corner. 
 
 9 June. I was invited to a Vineyard, which was so artificialy planted 
 and supported with arched poles that stooping downe one might see 
 from end to end, a very greate length, under the vines, the bunches 
 hanging down in abundance. 
 
 20 June. We took hors to see certain natural Caves, caled Goutiere, 
 neare Colombiere, where there is a spring within the bowells of the 
 earth very deepe, & so excessive cold that the dropps meeting with 
 some stony matter it converts them into an hard stone, which hangs 
 about like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures and i 
 sugar plums as wee call them. 
 
 Neere this we went under the ground almost two furlongs, lighted 
 with candles, to see the source and spring which serves the whole 
 Citty, by a passage cut through the maine rock of free-stone. 
 
 28. I went to see the Palace and Gardens of Chevereux, a sweete 
 place. 
 
 30. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbd, to the 
 mines of an old & very strong Castle sayd to have ben built by the 
 English, of great hight, on the precipice of a dreadful! cliff, from 
 whence the country and river yeald a most incomparable prospect. 
 
 27 July. I heard excellent musiq at the Jesuites, who have here a 
 Scheie and Convent, but a meane Chapell. We had now store of those 
 admirable melons so much celebrated in France for the best of the 
 kingdom. 
 
 I Augt. My valet, one Garno, a Spaniard borne in Biscay, having 
 misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him ; he demanded of me (be- 
 sides his wages) nolesse then 100 crownes to carry him to his country ; 
 refusing to pay it, as no part of our agreement, he had the impudence 
 to arrest me : the next day I was to appear in Court, where both our 
 Advocats pleaded before the Lieutennant Civile. The Judge imme- 
 
 5 
 
66 TROUBLED BY MY VALET. TOURS ; RICHELIEU. 
 
 diately acquitting me, after he had reproached the Advocate who tooke 
 part with my servant, he rose from the Bench, and making a courteous 
 excuse to me, that being a stranger I should be so us'd, he conducted 
 mee through the Court to the streete-dore. This varlet afterwards 
 threatened to pistol me. The next day I waited on the Lieutennant to 
 thanke him for his greate civility. 
 
 18 Aug. The Queene of England came to Tours, having newly 
 ariv'd in France, and going for Paris. She was very nobly receiv'd by 
 the People and Cleargy, who went to meete her with the trained bands. 
 After the harangue the Archbish'p entertain'd her at his Palace, where 
 I paid my duty to her. The 20th she set forward to Paris. 
 
 8 Sept. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to this place, where 
 I settled them in their pension and exercises. 
 
 14. We tooke post for Richlieu, passing by I'lsle Bouchart, a vil- 
 lage. — 15. We ariv'd at the Towne, and went to see the Cardinal's 
 Palace neare it. The Towne is in a low, marshy ground, having a 
 small river cut by hand, very even and straite, capable of bringing up 
 a small vessell. It consists of onely one considerable streete, the 
 houses on both sides (as indeed throughout the towne) built exactly 
 uniforme, after a modern handsome designe. It has a large goodly 
 Market-house and Place, opposite to which is the Church built of free- 
 stone, having two pyramids of stone, which stand hollow from the 
 towers. The Church is well-built, of a well-ordered architecture, hand- 
 somely pav'd and adom'd. To this towne belongs an Academy, where, 
 besides the exercise of the horse, armes, dauncing, &c. all the sciences 
 are taught in the vulgar French by Professors stipendiated by the greate 
 Cardinal, who by this, the cheape living there, and divers priviledges, 
 not only design'd the improvement of the vulgar language, but to draw 
 people and strangers to the towne ; but since the Cardinal's death it is 
 thinly inhabited, standing so much out of the way, and in a place not 
 well situated for health or pleasure. He was allured to build by the 
 name of the place, and an old house there belonging to his ancestors. 
 This pretty town is handsomely wall'd about & moated, with a kind of 
 Blight fortification, two faire gates & draw-bridges. Before the gate 
 towards the Palace is a spacious circle, where the Faire is annually 
 kept. About a flite-shot from the towne is the Cardinal's house, a 
 princely pile, tho' on an old designe, not altogether Gotiq, but mix'd, 
 inviron'd by a cleare moate. The roomes are stately, most richly 
 furnish'd with tissue, damask, aras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, 
 & all sorts of antiquities, especialy the Cassars in oriental alabaster. 
 The long gallerv is paynted with the famous acts of the Founder ; the 
 roole witti the life of Julius Cssar ; at the end of it is a Cupola or 
 singing theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black marble. The 
 Chapell anciently belonging to the family of the Founder. The Court 
 is very ample. The Gardens without are very large, and the parterres 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 67 
 
 of excellent imbrodry, set with many statues of brasse and marble; the 
 groves, meadows, and walkes are a real paradise. 
 
 16. We return'd to Tours, from whence, after 19 weekes sojourne, 
 we went towards the more Southern parte of France, minding now to 
 shape my course so as I might winter in Italy. 
 
 16 Sept. With my friend Mr. Thicknesse and our guide we went 
 the first day 7 leagues to a castle called Chenonceaux, built by Cath. de 
 Medici, and now belonging to the Duke of Vendosme, standing on a 
 bridg. In the gallery, amongst divers other excellent statues, is that 
 of Scipio Africanus, of oriental alabaster. 
 
 21st. We pass'd by Ville Franche, where we din'd, and so by 
 Muneton, lying at Viaron au mouton, which was 20 leagues. The next 
 day by Murg to Bourges, 4 leagues, where we spent the day. This is 
 the capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, 
 situated on the River Eure. It stands high, is strong, & well placed 
 for defence. It is inviron'd with meadows and vines ; the living here 
 is very cheap. In the suburbs of St. Prie there is a fountaine of sharp 
 water which they report wholesome against the stone. They shew'd us a 
 vast tree which they say stands in the center of France. The French 
 tongue is spoken with great purity in this place. St. Stephen's Church 
 is the Cathedrall, well built i la Gotic, full of sepulchres without-side, 
 with the representation of the final judgment over one of the ports. 
 Here they shew the Chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous souldier 
 who had serv'd six Kings of France in their warrs. 
 
 St Chapell is built much like that at Paris, full of reliques, and the 
 bones of one Briat, a gyant of 15 cubits high. This was built by 
 John Duke of Berry, and they shew'd the coronet of the dukedom.. 
 The great tour is a Pharos for defence of the towne, very strong, in- 
 thicknesse 18 foote, fortified with a graff and workes ; there is a garri- 
 son in it, and a strange engine for throwing great stones, and the yron^ 
 Cage where Lewes Duke of Orleans was kept by Charles VIII. Neere 
 the Town-house stands the CoUedge of Jesuites, where was heretofore 
 an Amphitheatre. I was courteously entertayned by a Jesuit, who had 
 us into the garden. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth seeing. 
 Bourges is an Archbishopric, Primate of Aquitain. I tooke my leave 
 of Mr. Nicholas and some other English there ; and on the 23d pro- 
 ceeded on my journey by Pont du Charge ; and lay that evening at 
 Coulaiure, 13 leagues. 
 
 24, by Franchede St. Menou, thence to Moulins where we din'd. 
 This is the chiefe towne of the Bourbonois, on the river AUier very 
 navigable. The streetes are faire ; the Castle has a noble prospect, 
 and has been the seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty parke and gar- 
 den. After dinner came many who offered knives and scissars to sell, 
 it being a towne famous for those trifles. This Dutchy of Bourbon is 
 ordinarily assigned for the dowry of the Queenes of France. 
 
•^S VARENNE ; BOURBON ; ROAN ; TARRARE ; LIONS. 
 
 Hence we tooke horse for Varenne, an obscure village, where we lay 
 that night. The next day we went somewhat out of the way to see the 
 ^.owne of Bourbon I'Archambaut, from whose ancient and ragged 
 castle is deriVd the name of the present Royal Family of France. The 
 castle stands on a ilinty rock, overlooking the towne. In the midst of the 
 streetes are some bathes of medicinal waters, some of them excessively 
 hot, but nothing so neately wall'd & adorn'd as ours in Som'ersetshire ; 
 and indeede they are chiefly for drinking, our Queen being then lodged 
 there for that purpose. After dinner I went to see the St. Chapel, a 
 prime place of devotion, where is kept one of the thornes of our 
 Saviour's crowne, & a piece of the real crosse ; excellent paintings on 
 ^lasse, and some few statues of stone and wood, which they show for 
 ■ curiosities. We went forward to Palisse, a village that lodged us that 
 night. 
 
 26 Sept. We ariv'd at Roan, where we quitted our guide and 
 ■tooke post for Lions. Roan seem'd to me one of the pleasantest and 
 jnost agreeable places imaginable for a retyred person : besides the 
 -situation on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheape and 
 ^aboundant. 
 
 It being late when we left this towne, we rode no farther than 
 Tarrare that night (passing St. Saforin), a little desolate village in a 
 vally near a pleasant streame, encompass'd with fresh meadows and 
 ■vineyards. The hills which we rod over before we descended, and 
 afterwards on the Lions side of this place, are high and mountainous ; 
 fir and pines grow frequently on them. The ayre methought was 
 much alter'd, as well as the manner of the houses, which are built 
 flatter, more after the Easterne manner. Before I went to bed I tooke 
 a landskip of this pleasant terrace. There followed a most violent 
 tempest of thunder and lightning. 
 
 27. We rod by Pont Charu to Lions, which being but six leagues 
 we soone accomplish'd it, having made 85 leagues from Toures 
 in seven days. There at the Golden Lion, rue de Flandre, I met 
 divers of my acquaintance, who coming from Paris, design'd for Italy. 
 We lost no time in seeing the Citty, because of being ready to accom- 
 ,,pany these gentlemen in their journey. 
 
 Lions is excellently situated on the confluence of the rivers Soane 
 -and Rhodanus, which wash the walls of the Citty in a very rapid 
 streame ; each of these has its bridg ; that over the Rhone consists of 
 2S arches. The two high chffs called St. Just and St. Sebastian are 
 -very stately ; on one of them stands a strong fort, garrison'd. We 
 A-issited the Cathedrall, St. Jean, where was one of the fairest clockes 
 [for art and buisy invention I had ever seene. The fabriq of the Church 
 ■.is Gotic, as are likewise those of St. Esti^nne and St. Croix. From 
 .the top of one of the towers of St. Jean (for it has 4) we beheld the 
 whole citty and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alpes, many 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 69 
 
 leagues distant. The Archbishop's Palace is fairely built. The Church 
 of St. Niser is the greatest ; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here 
 are divers other fine Churches, with other noble buildings. We went 
 to that of the Charity, or greate Kospitall for poor infirme people, en- 
 tertaining about 1500, with a schoole, granary, gardens, and all conve- 
 niences, maintained at a wonderful expence, worthy seeing. The 
 place of the Belle Court is very spacious, observable for the view it 
 affords, so various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyards, gardens, 
 precipices, and other advantages, presenting themselves together. The 
 Pall Mall is sett with faire trees. This stately, cleane and noble 
 Citty built all of stone, abounds in persons of quality and rich mer- 
 chants. Those of Florence obtain greate privileges above the rest- 
 In the Towne-house they shew 2 tables of brass on which is engravem 
 Claudius's speech to the Senat as to giving the Towne the Roman' 
 priviledges. There are also other antiquities. 
 
 30 Sept. We bargain'd with a waterman to carry us to Avignon on. 
 the river, and got the first night to Vienne in Dauphind. This is an- 
 Archbishoprick, and the Province gives title to the Heir Apparent of 
 France. Here we supped and lay, having amongst other dainties, a 
 dish of trufles, an earth nut, found out by an hogg train'd to it, and 
 for which those animals are sold at a great price.* We were shew'd. 
 the ruines of an Amphitheatre pretty entire ; and many handsome 
 Palaces, especialy that of Pontius Pilate not far from the towne, at 
 the foote of a solitary mountain neere the river, having 4 pinnacles. 
 Here 'tis reported he pass'd his exile, and precipitated himselfe into, 
 the lake not far from it. The house is modern, and seemes to be the 
 seate of some gentleman, being in a very pleasant place. The Cathe- 
 dral of Vienne is St. Maurice ; and there are many other pretty 
 buildings, but nothing more so than the Mills where they hammer 
 and polish the sword-blades. 
 
 Hence the next morning we swam (for the river here is so rapid that 
 the boat was only steered) to a small village called Tain, where wS' 
 dyn'd. 
 
 Over against this is another towne named Toumon, where is a very 
 strong castle under a high precipice. To the castle joynes the 
 Jesuits CoUedge where they have a fayre library. The prospect was. 
 so tempting that I designed it with my crayon. 
 
 We then came to Valence, a capital Citty carrying the title of a 
 Dutchy, but the Bishop is now sole lord temporal of it and the country 
 about it. The towne having an University famous for the study o£ 
 the civil law, is much frequented ; but the Churches are none of the 
 fairest, having been greatly defaced in the time of the warrs. The 
 streets are full of pretty fountaines. The Citadell is strong and gar- 
 rison'd. Here we pass'd the night. The next morning by Pont St. 
 
 • In England they are found by doir»- 
 
70 ORANGE ; AVIGNON ; VAUCLUSE ; AIX ; MARSEILLES. 
 
 Esprit, which consists of 22 arches ; in the piers of the arches are 
 windowes as it were, to receive the water when it is high and full. At 
 this place we went on shore, it being very dangerous to passe the 
 bridg in a boat. 
 
 Hence leaving our barg we tooke horse, seing at a distance the 
 Towne and Principality of Orange, and lodging one night on the way 
 we ariv'd at noone at Avignon. This towne has belonged to the Popes 
 ever since the time of Clement VI. being in 1352 alienated by Jane 
 Queene of Naples and Sicily. Entering the gates the soldiers at the 
 guard tooke our pistols and carbines, and examin'd us very strictly ; 
 after that, having obtain'd the Governor's leave and the Vice-Legat's 
 to tarry three days, we were civilly conducted to our lodging. The 
 City is on the Rhodanus, and divided from the newer part or towne, 
 which is on the other side of the river, by a very faire stone bridge 
 (which has been broken) ; at one end is a very high rock, on which is 
 a strong castle well furnish'd with artillery. The walls of the Citty are 
 of large square free-stone, the most neate and best in repaire I ever 
 saw. It is full of well-built Palaces ; those of the Vice-Legate and 
 Archbishop being the most magnificent. There are many sumptuous 
 Churches, especially St. Magdalene and St. Martial, wherein [the tomb 
 of] the Cardinal d'Amboise is the most observable. Clement VI. lies 
 buried in that of the Celestines, the altar whereof is exceeding rich. 
 There is the tomb of Laura the celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We 
 saw the Arsenal, the Pope's Palace, and the Synagogue of the Jewes 
 who here are distinguished by red hats. Vaucluse, so much renowned 
 for the solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the Castle, but could not 
 go to visit it for want of time. We now took mules and a guide for 
 Marseilles. 
 
 30 Sept. We lay at Loumas ; the next morning came to Aix, having 
 pass'd that extremely rapid and dangerous river of Durance. In this 
 tract all the heathes or com'ons are cover'd with rosemary, lavender, 
 lentiscs, and the like sweet shrubes, for many miles together, which to 
 me was very pleasant. Aix is the chiefe Citty of Provence, being a 
 Parliament and Presidential Town, with other Royal Courts and 
 , Metropolitan jurisdiction. It is well built, the houses very high and 
 the streetes ample. The Cathedrall, St. Saviour's, is a noble pile 
 adorn'd with innumerable figures especialy that of St. Michael ; the 
 Baptisterie, the Palace, the Court, built in a most spacious Piazza, are 
 very faire. The Duke of Guise's house is worth seeing, being furnished 
 with many antiquities in and about it. The Jesuites have here a Royal 
 CoUedge, and the City is an University. 
 
 7 Oct. We had a most delicious journey to Marseilles, thro' a 
 country sweetely declining to the South and Mediterranean coasts, 
 full of vine- yards and olive-yards, orange trees, myrtils, pomegranads, 
 and the like sweete plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 71 
 
 villas to the number of above 1 500 built all of freestone, and in pros- 
 pect shewing as if they were so many heapes of snow dropp'd out 
 of the clouds amongst those perennial greens. It was almost at the 
 shutting of the gates that we arived. Marseilles is on the sea coast, 
 on a pleasant rising ground, well walled, with an excellent port for 
 ships and gallys, secur'd by a huge chayne of yron drawn across the 
 harbour at pleasure, and there is a well-fortified tpwer with 3 other 
 forts, especialy that built on a rock ; but the castle commanding the 
 Citty is that of Nostre dame de la Guard. In the Chapel hung up 
 divers crocodiles skinns. 
 
 We went to visite the Gallys, being about 25 ; the Captaine of the 
 Gaily Royal gave us most courteous entertainement in his cabine, the 
 slaves in the interim playing both loud and soft musiq very rarely. 
 Then he shew'd us how he commanded their motions with a nod and 
 his whistle, making them row out. The spectacle was to me new and 
 strange, to see so many hundreds of miserably naked persons, having 
 their heads shaven close and having onely high red bonnets, a payre of 
 course canvas drawers, their whole backs and leggs naked, doubly 
 chayn'd about their middle and leggs, in couples, and made fast te 
 their seates, and all commanded in a trise by an imperious and cruell 
 seaman. One Turke he much favor'd, who waited on him in his cabin, 
 but with no other dress than the rest, and a chayne lock'd about his 
 leg but not coupled. This gaily was richly carv'd and gilded, and 
 most of the rest were very beautifuU. After bestowing something on 
 the slaves, the captain sent a band of them to give us musiq at dinner 
 where we lodged. I was amaz'd to contemplate how these miserable 
 catyfs lie in their gaily crowded together, yet there was hardly one but 
 had some occupation by which, as leisure and calmes permitted, they 
 gat some little monye, insomuch as some of them have, after many 
 yeares of cruel servitude, been able to purchase their liberty. Their 
 rising forward and falling baqk at their oare is a miserable spectacle, 
 and the noyse of their chaines with the roaring of the beaten waters 
 has something of strange and fearfuU to one unaccustom'd to it. They 
 are rul'd and chastiz'd by strokes on their backs and soles of theire 
 feete on the least disorder, and without the least humanity ; yet are 
 they chereful and full of knavery. 
 
 In the church of St. Victoire is that Saint's head in a shrme of silver 
 which weighs 600 lb. Nostre Dame is well built ; it is the Cathedrall. 
 The Duke of Guyse has a Palace : there is the Palais of Justice, the 
 Maison du Roy, but nothing is more strange than the great number of 
 slaves working in the streets, and carrying burthens, with their confus'd 
 noises and gingling of their huge chaynes. The cheife trade of the 
 towne is in silks and tirougs out of Africa, Syria, and Egypt, and Bar- 
 bary horses which are brought hither in great numbers. The towne is 
 govem'd by 4 Captaines, has three Consuls and one Assessor, three 
 
72 PERIGUEUX ; CANES ; NICE ; MONACO J CORSICA. 
 
 Judges Royal ; the Merchants have a Judge for ordinary causes. Here 
 we bought umbrellas against the heats, and consulted of our journey to 
 Canes by land, for feare of the Pickaron Turkes, who make prize of 
 many small vessels about these parts, we not finding a gaily bound for 
 Genoa, whither we were design'd. 
 
 9 Oct. We tooke mules, passing the first night very late in sight of 
 St. Baume, and the solitary grott where they affirme Mary Magdalen 
 did her pennance. The next day we lay at Perigueux, a Citty built on. 
 an old foundation, witnesse the mines of a most stately amphitheater 
 which I went out to design, being about a flight shoote from the Towne : 
 they call it now the Rolsies. There is a strong towre neere the Towne 
 call'd the Visone, but the Towne and Citty are at some distance from 
 each other. It is a bishoprick ; has a Cathedral ; with divers noble- 
 men's houses in sight of the sea. The place was formerly call'd Forum 
 Julij, well known by Antiquaries. 
 
 10 Oct. We proceeded by the ruines of a stately aqueduct. The 
 soile about the Country is rocky, full of pines and rare simples. 
 
 1 1. We lay at Canes, which is a small Port on the Mediterranean ; 
 here we agreed with a seaman to carry us to Genoa, and having pro- 
 cur'd a bill of health (without which there is no admission at any towne 
 in Italy,) we embarq'd on the 12th. We touched at the Islands of St. 
 Margaret and St. Honore, lately retaken from the Spanyards with 
 great bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here, having payd some small 
 duty, we bought some trifles offer'd us by the souldiers, but without 
 going on shore. Hence we coasted within 2 leagues of Antibes, which 
 is the utmost towne in France. Thence by Nice, a Citty in Savoy 
 built all of brick, which gives it a very pleasant appearance towards the 
 sea, having a castle built very high, which com'ands it. We sailed by 
 Morgus, now cal'd Monaco, having passed Villa Franca, heretofore 
 Portus Herculis, when, ariving after the gates were shut, we were forc'd 
 to abide all night in the barg, which was put into the haven the wind 
 coming contrary. In the morning we were hastned away, having no 
 time permitted us by our avaricious master to go up and see this strong 
 and considerable place ; it now belongs to a Prince of the family oi 
 Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and himself under the protec- 
 tion of the French. The situation is on a promontory of solid stone 
 and rock. The towne walls very fayre. We were told that within it 
 was an ample court, and a palace, furnish'd with the most rich and 
 princely moveables, and a collection of statues, pictures, and massiv 
 plate to an immense amount. 
 
 We sailed by Menton and Vintimiglia, being the first Citty of the 
 Republiq of Genoa : supp'd at Oneglia, where we anker'd and lay ork 
 shore. The next morning we coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica 
 and St. Remo, where the shore is furnish'd with evergreens, oranges, 
 citrons, and date-trees ; we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morning 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 73 
 
 by Diano Aroisso, famous for the best corrall fishing, it growing in 
 aboundance on the rocks deepe and continualy covered by the sea. By 
 Albenga and Finale a very faire and strong towne belonging to the 
 King of Spain, for which reason a Monsieur in our vessell was ex- 
 treamely afraide, as was the patron of our barke, for they frequently 
 catch French prizes as they creepe by these shores to go into Italy ; he 
 therefore ply'd both sayles and oars to get under the protection of 
 a Genoese gaily that pass'd not far before us, and in whose company we 
 sayl'd as far as the Cape of Savona, a towne built at the rise oi the Ape- 
 nines ; for all this coast (except a little at St. Remo) is an high and steepe 
 mountainous ground consisting all of rock marble, without any grasse, 
 tree, or rivage, formidable to looke on. A strange object it is to con- 
 sider how some poore cottages stand fast on the declivities of these 
 precipices, and by what steps the inhabitants ascend to them. The 
 rocks consist of all sorts of the most precious marbles. 
 
 Here, on the 1 5th, forsaking our gaily, we encounter'd a little foule 
 weather, which made us creepe Terra, Terra, as they call it, and so a 
 vessell that encounter'd us advised us to do ; but our Patron, striving to 
 double the point of Savona, making out into the wind put us into 
 great hazard, for blowing very hard from land betwixt those horrid 
 gapps of the mountaines, it set so violently as rais'd on the sudden so 
 great a sea that we could not recover the weather shore for many 
 houres, insomuch that, what with the water already enter'd, and the 
 confusion of fearful passengers (of which one who was an Irish Bishop, 
 and his brother, a priest, were confessing some as at the article of 
 death), we were almost abandon'd to despaire, our pilot himselfe giving 
 us up for lost. And now, as we were weary with pumping and laving 
 out the water, almost sinking, it pleas'd God on the suddaine to 
 appease the wind, and with much ado and greate perill we recover'd the 
 shore, which we now kept in view within halfe a league, in sight of 
 those pleasant villas, and within scent of those fragrant orchards which 
 are on this coast, full of princely retirements for the sumptuousnesse of 
 their buildings and noblesse of the plantations, especialy those at St. 
 Pietro d'Arena, from whence, the wind blowing as it did, might per- 
 fectly be smelt the joys of Italy in the perfumes of orange, citron, and 
 jassmine flowers for divers leagues seaward.' 
 
 16 Oct. We got to anker under the Pharos, or watch-tower, built 
 on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole of Genoa, the weather being 
 still so fowle that for two houres at least we durst not stand into 
 the haven. Towards evening we adventured, and came on shore by 
 the Prattiq-house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics, we 
 were had to the Ducal Palace, and there, our names being taken, we 
 were conducted to our inne kept by one Zacharias an Englishman. 
 
 I Mr. Evelyn was so struck with the circumstance of the fragrancy of the air on this coast, 
 that he has noticed it again in his Dedication of the Fumifugium to Charles II. 
 
74 GENOA, ITS BEAUTY AND SITUATION. MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 I shall never forget a story of our host Zachary, who on the relation 
 of our perill told us another of his owne, being shipvvreck'd, as he 
 affirm'd solemnly, in the middle of a greate sea somewhere in the West 
 Indies, that he swam no lesse than 22 leagues to another island, with 
 a tinder-box wraped up in his hayre, which was not so much as wett 
 all the way ; that picking up the carpenter's tooles with other provi- 
 sions in a chest, he and the carpenter, who accompany'd him, (good 
 swimers it seemes both) floated the chest before them, and ariving at 
 last in a place full of wood, they built another vessell and so escaped. 
 After this story we no more talked of our danger, Zachary put us quite 
 downe. 
 
 17 Oct. Accompany'd by a most courteous merchand call'd Tomson, 
 we went to view the rarities. The Citty is built in the hollow or bosom 
 of a mountaine, whose ascent is very steepe, high, and rocky, so that, 
 from the Lantern and Mole to the hill, it represents the shape of a 
 theater ; the streetes and buildings so ranged one above another as our 
 seates are in play-houses ; but, from their materials, beauty, and struc- 
 ture, never was an artificial scene more beautiful to the eye, nor is 
 anyplace, for the size of it, so tull of well-design'd and stately palaces, 
 as may be easily concluded by that rare bobke in a large folio which the 
 great virtuoso and paynter Paull Rubens has published, tho' it contains 
 [the description of] only one streete and 2 or 3 churches. 
 
 The first Palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo del Negros, 
 to which we pass'd by boate acrosse the harbour. Here I could not but 
 observe the sudden and devilish passion of a seaman, who plying us 
 was intercepted by another who interpos'd his boate before him and 
 tooke us in ; for the teares gushing out of his eyes, he put his finger in 
 his mouth and almost bit it off by the joynt, shewing it to his anta- 
 gonist as an assurance to him of somie bloudy revenge if ever he came 
 neere that part of the harbour again. Indeed this beautifuU Citty is 
 more stayn'd with such horrid acts of revenge and murthers than any 
 one place in Europ, or haply in the world, where there is a political 
 government, which makes it unsafe to strangers. It is made a gaily 
 matter to carry a knife whose point is not broken off. 
 
 This Palace of Negros is richly furnish'd with the rarest pictures ; 
 on the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove of stately trees amongst 
 which are sheepe, shepherds, and wild beasts, cut very artificially in a 
 grey stone ; fountaines, rocks, and fish-ponds : casting your eyes one 
 way, you would imagine yourselfe in a wildernesse and silent country ; 
 sideways, in the heart of a great citty ; and backwards, in the middst 
 of the sea. All this is within one acre of ground. In the house I 
 noticed those red-plaster flores which are made so hard, and kept so 
 polished, that for some time one would take them for whole pieces of 
 porphyrie. I have frequently wonder'd that we never practic'd this in 
 England for cabinets and rooms of state,' for it appears to me beyond 
 
 1 There are such at Hardwick Hall in Derbyshire, a seat of the Duke of DcYOnshire. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 75 
 
 any invention of that kind ; but by their careful! covering them with 
 canvas and fine mattresses, where there is much passage, I suppose 
 they are not lasting in their glory. 
 
 There are numerous other Palaces of particular curiositys, for the 
 merchands being very rich have, lilce our neighbours the Hollanders, 
 little or no extent of ground to employ their estates in : as those in 
 pictures and hangings, so these lay it out on marble houses and rich 
 furniture. 
 
 One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the Prince d'Orias, 
 which reaches from the sea to the sum'it of the mountaines. The 
 house is most magnificently built without, nor less gloriously furnish'd 
 within, having whole tables ' and bedsteads of massy silver, many 
 of them sett with achates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, turquizes, 
 and other precious stones. The pictures and statues are innumerable. 
 To this Palace belong three gardens, the first whereof is beautified with 
 a terrace, supported by pillars of marble ; there is a fountaine of eagles, 
 and one of Neptune with other Sea-gods, all of the purest white 
 marble ; they stand in a most ample basine of the same stone. At 
 the side of this garden is such an aviary as Sir Fra. Bacon describes in 
 his Sermones fidelium, or Essays, wherein grow trees of more than 
 two foote diameter, besides cypresse, myrtils, lentiscs, and other rare 
 shrubs, which serve to nestle and pearch all sorts of birds, who have 
 ayre and place enough under their ayrie canopy, supported with huge 
 iron worke, stupendious for its fabrick and the charge. The other two 
 gardens are full of orange-trees, citrons, and pomegranads, fountaines, 
 grotts, and statues ; one of the latter is a Colossal Jupiter, under which 
 is the sepulchre of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this 
 family receiv'd of the K. of Spaine 500 crownes a yeare during the life 
 of that faithfuU animal. The reservoir of water here is a most ad- 
 mirable piece of art ; and so is the grotto over against it. 
 
 We went thence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is also the Court 
 of Justice ; thence to the Merchants Walke, rarely covered. Neere 
 the Ducal Palace we saw the publiq armoury, which was almost all 
 new, most neatly kept and order'd, sufficient for 30,000 men. We 
 were shew'd many rare inventions and engines of warr peculiar to that 
 armory, as in the state where gunns were first put in use. The garrison 
 of the towne chiefly consists of Germans and Corsicans. The famous 
 Strada Nova, built wholly of polish'd marble, was design'd by Rubens, 
 and for statelinesse of the buildings, paving, and evennesse of the 
 streete, is far superior to any in Europ, for the number of houses ; that 
 of Don Carlo d'Orias is a most magnificent structure. In the gardens 
 of the old Marquiss Spinola I saw huge citrons hanging on the trees, 
 apply'd like our apricots to the walls. The Churches are no less 
 
 1 One of which. Lassells says, weighed 24.000 lbs. 
 
^6 THE MOLE AND HARBOUR OF GENOA. DRESS OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 splendid than the Palaces : than of St. Francis is wholly built of Parian 
 marble ; St. Lawrence, in the middle of the City, of white and black 
 polish'd stone, the inside wholly incrusted with marble and other pre- 
 cious materials ; on the altar of St. John stand 4 sumptuous columns of 
 poi-phyry ; and here we were shew'd an emerald supposed to be one 
 of the largest in the world.' The Church of St. Ambrosio belonging 
 to the Jesuites will, when finish'd, exceed all the rest. That of the 
 Annunciada, founded at the charges of one family ,° in the present and 
 future designe can never be outdone for cost and art. The Mole is a 
 worke of soHd huge stone stretching neere 600 paces into the main sea, 
 and secures the harbour, heretofore of no safety. Of all the wonders of 
 Italy, for the art and nature of the designe, nothing parallels this.' 
 We pass'd over to the Pharos, or Lantern, atowre of very great height. 
 Here we tooke horses and made the circuite of the Citty as far as the 
 new walles would let us ; they are built of a prodigious height, and with 
 Herculanean industry, witnesse those vast pieces of whole mountaines 
 which they have hewn away, and blown up with gunpowder, to render 
 them steepe and inaccessible. They are not much lesse than'' 20 Eng- 
 lish miles in extent, reaching beyond the utmost buildings of the Citty. 
 From one of these promontories we could easily discern the Island of 
 Corsica ; and from the same. Eastward, we saw a Vale having a great 
 torrent running thro' a most desolate barren country ; and then turning 
 our eyes more Northward we saw those delicious Villas of St. Pietro 
 d' Arena, which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retire- 
 ments of the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much paine, we de- 
 scended towards the Arsenale, where the gallys lie in excellent order. 
 
 The inhabitants of this City are much affected to the Spanish mode 
 and stately garbe.' From the narrowness of the streetes they use 
 sedans and litters, and not coaches. 
 
 19 Oct. We embarqued in a filuca for Ligorne [Leghorn], but the 
 sea running very high we put in at Porta Venere, which we made with 
 peril, between 2 narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed with 
 great velocity ; but we were soone delivered into as great a calme and 
 a most ample harbour, being the Golpho di Spetia. From hence we 
 
 1 Lassells calls it a great dish, in which they say here that our Saviour ate the Paschal 
 Lamb witli his Disciples ; but he adds that he finds no authority for it in any ancient writer, 
 and that Venerable Bede writes that the dish used by our Saviour was of silver. Of an au- 
 thentic relic of St.John he observes that Baronius writes credibly. 
 
 * Two brothers, named LoTnellini, allow the third part of their gains. Lassells. 
 
 * The Break -water now (1816) forming at Plymouth is at least as stupendous a work, 
 
 * Lassells says, finished in 18 months, and yet 6 miles in compass. 
 
 B Thus described by Lassells: broad hats without hatbands, broad leather girdles with steel 
 buckles, narrowbritches with long-waisted doublets and hanging sleeves. The great ladies go in 
 guard infanta's (child preservers) ; that is, in horrible overgrown vertigals of whalebone, which 
 being put about the waiste of the lady, and full as broad on both sides as she caxi reach with hes 
 hands, bear out her coats in such a manner that she appears to be as broad as long. The men 
 look like tumblers that leap thro' hoops, and the women like those that anciently danced the 
 Hobby-horse in country mummings. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 77 
 
 could see Pliny's DelpMni Promontorium, now call'd Cap fino. Here 
 stood that famous City of Luna, whence the Port was named Lunaris, 
 being about 2 leagues over, more resembling a lake than an haven, 
 but defended by castles and excessive high mountaines. We landed 
 at Larici, where, being Sunday, was a great procession, carrying the 
 Sacrament about the streetes in solemn devotion. After dinner we 
 took post horses, passing through whole groves of olive-trees, the 
 way somewhat rugged and hilly at first, but aftewards pleasant. We 
 passed thro' the townes of Sarazana and Massa, and the vast marble 
 quarries of Carrara, and lodged in an obscure inn at a place called 
 Viregio. The next morning we ariv'd at Pisa, where I met my old 
 friend Mr. Thomas Henshaw, who was then newly come out of Spaine, 
 and from whose company I never parted till more than a yeare 
 after. 
 
 The City of Pisa is as much worth seeing as any in Italy ; it has con- 
 tended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily, and even Carthage. The 
 Palace and Church of St. Stephano (where the order of knighthood 
 called by that name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside 
 thereof being altogether of polish'd marble ; within it is full of tables 
 relating to this order ; over which hang divers banners and pendants, 
 with other trophies taken by them from the Turkes, against whom they 
 are particularly obhg'd to fight ; tho' a religious order, they are per- 
 mitted to marry. At the front of the Palace stands a fountaine, and the 
 statue of the greate Duke Cosmo. The Campanile, or Settezonio, built 
 by John Venipont, a German, consists of several orders of pillars, 30 in 
 a row, design 'd to be much higher. It stands alone on the right side of 
 the Cathedrall, strangely remarkable for this, that the beholder would 
 expect it to fall, being built exceedingly declining, by a rare addresse of 
 the architect ; and how it is supported from falling I think would puzzle a 
 good geometrician. The Domo, or Cathedrall, standing neere it, is a 
 superb structure, beautified with 6 columns of greate antiquity ; the gates 
 are of brasse, of admirable workmanship. The Cemetere cal'd Campo 
 Santo is made of divers gaily ladings of earth formerly brought from 
 Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature as to consume dead bodies in fourty 
 houres. 'Tis cloistred with marble arches ; here lies buried the learned 
 Philip Decius who taught in this University. At one side of this 
 Church stands an ample and weU-wrought marble vessell which hereto- 
 fore contain'd the tribute paid yearly by the Citty to Cassar. It is plac'J, 
 as 1 remember, on a pillar of opilestone, with divers other antiq urnes. 
 Neere this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, 
 built of pure white marble and cover'd with so artificial a cupola that 
 the voice uttered under it seemes to breake out of a cloud. The font 
 and pulpit supported by 4 lyons is of inestimable value for the precious- 
 nesse of the materials. The place where these buildings stand they 
 call the Area. Hence we went to the Colledge, to which joynes a 
 
78 PISA ; PENDANT TOWER. LIGORNE : THE SLAVE MARKET. 
 
 Gallery so fumish'd with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, dry'd 
 animals, skelletons, &c. as is hardly to be seen in Italy. To this the 
 Physiq Garden lyes, where is a noble palm-tree and very fine water- 
 workes. The river Amo runs through the middle of this stately Citye, 
 whence the streete is named Longarno. It is so ample that the Duke's 
 gallys, built in the Arsenal here, are easily conveyed to Livorno ; over 
 the river is an arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and serving for a 
 bridge, is no where in Europ. The Duke has a stately Palace, before 
 which is plared the statue of Ferdinand the Third ; over against it is 
 the Exchange, built of marble. Since this Citty came to be under the 
 Dukes of Tuscany it has been much depopulated, tho' there is hardly 
 in Italy any which exceeds it for stately edifices. The situation of it is 
 low and flat, but the inhabitants have spacious gardens and even fields 
 within the walls. 
 
 21 Oct. We tooke coach to Livorno, thro' the Great Duke's new 
 Parke full of huge corke-trees, the underwood all myrtils, amongst 
 which were many bufifalos feeding, a kind of wild ox, short-nos'd, with 
 homes revers'd ; those who worke with them com'and them as our 
 bearewards do the beares, with a ring thro' the nose, and a cord. 
 Much of this Parke, as well as a greate parte of the country about it, 
 is very fenny, and the ayre very bad. 
 
 Ligome is the prime Port belonging to all the Duke's territories ; 
 heretofore a very obscure Towne, but since Duke Ferdinand has 
 strongly fortified it (after the modern way), has drain'd the marshes by 
 cutting a channell thence to Pisa navigable i6 miles, and has rais'd a 
 Mole, emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it is become a 
 place of great receipt: it has also a place for the gallys, where they lye 
 safe. Before the sea is an ample Piazza for the market, where are the 
 statues in copper of the fower slaves, much exceeding the life for pro- 
 portion, and, in the judgment of most artists, one of the best pieces of 
 modem worke.' Here, especialy in this Piazza, is such a concourse oi 
 slaves, Turkes, Mores, and other nations, that the number and confu- 
 sion is prodigious ; some buying, others selling, others drinking, others 
 playing, some working, others sleeping, fighting, singing, weeping, all 
 nearly naked, and miserably chayn'd. Here was a tent, where any 
 idle fellow might stake his liberty against a few crownes, at dice or 
 other hazard, and, if he lost, he was immediately chayn'd and led away 
 to the gallys, where he was to serve a tearm of yeares, but from whence 
 they seldom retum'd : many sottish persons in a drunken bravado 
 would try their fortune in this way. 
 
 The houses of this neate Towne are very uniforme, and excellently 
 paynted afresca on the outer walls with representations of many of 
 their victories over the Turkes. The houses, though low on account 
 
 1 They had attempted to steal a galley, meaning to have rowed it themselves, butweie 
 taken in this great enterprise. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 79 
 
 of the earthquakes which frequently happen here (as did one during 
 my being in Italy) are very well built ; the Piazza is very fayre and 
 com'odious, and with the Church whose 4 columns at the portico are 
 of black marble polish'd, gave the first hint to the building both of 
 the Church and Piazza in Covent Garden with us, tho' very imper- 
 fectly persu'd. 
 
 22 Oct. From Livorno I took coach to Empoly, where we lay, and 
 the next day ariv'd at Florence, being recommended to the house 
 of Sig. Baritiere, in the Piazza dal Spirito Santo, where we were cxt- 
 ceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Appenines, the 
 West part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified with 
 more than a thousand houses and country palaces of note, belonging 
 to gentlemen of the towne. The river Amo runs through this Citty, 
 in a broad but very shallow channel!, dividing it, as it were, in the 
 middle ; and over it are fower most sumptuous bridges of stone. On 
 that nearest to our quarter are the 4 Seasons in white marble ; on 
 another are the goldsmiths shops ; at the head of the former stands a 
 column of opite on which is a statue of Justice with her balance and 
 sword, cut out of porphyrie, and the more remarkable for being the 
 first which had been carved out of that hard material, and brought to 
 perfection after the art had been utterly lost ; they say this was done 
 by hardening the tools in the juice of certaine herbs. This statue was 
 erected in that corner because there Cosmo was first saluted with the 
 newes of Sienna being taken. 
 
 Neere this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely piece of archi- 
 tecture, in a rustiq manner. The Palace of Pitti was built by that 
 family, but of late greatly beautified by Cosmo with huge square stones 
 of the Doric, Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a terrace at each 
 side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that ends in a 
 cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a vista to the gardens. 
 Nothing is more admirable than the vacant stayrecase, marbles, statues, 
 umes, pictures, courte, grotto, and waterworkes. In the quadrangle is 
 a huge jetto of water in a volto of 4 faces, with noble statues at each 
 square, especialy the Diana of porphyrie above the grotto. We were 
 here shew'd a prodigious greate load-stone. 
 
 The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, aviaries, 
 vivaries, fountaines, especialy one of five jettos, the middle basin being 
 one of the longest stones I ever saw. Here is every thing to make such 
 a paradise delightfull. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an 
 orange-tree. There was much topiary worke, and columns in architec- 
 ture about the hedges. The Duke has added an ample laboratorye, 
 over against which stands a Fort on a hill where they told us his trea- 
 sure is kept. In this Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living with 
 his Swiss guards, after the frugal Italian way, and even selling what he 
 can spare of his wines, at the cellar under his very house, wicker 
 
8o FLORENCE ; THE BUILDINGS AND ART TREASURES THERE. 
 
 bottles dangling over even the chiefe entrance into the Palace, serving 
 
 for a vintner's bush. 
 
 In the church oi Santo Spirito the altar and reliquary are most rich, 
 full ot precious stones ; there are 4 pillars of a kind of serpentine, and 
 some of blue. Hence we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called 
 Palazzo Vecchio, before which is a statue of David by Michael Angelo, 
 and one of Hercules killing Cacus, the work oi Baccio Bandinelli. 
 The quadrangle about this is of the Corinthian order, and in the hall 
 are many rare marbles, as those of Leo the Tenth and Clement VH. 
 both Popes of the Medicean family ; also the acts of Cosmo in rare 
 painting. In the Chapell is kept (as they would make one believe) the 
 original Gospel of St. John, written with his owne hand ; and the 
 famous Florentine Pandects, and divers precious stones. Neere it is 
 another pendant Towre like that at Pisa, always threatning ruine. 
 
 Under the Court of Justice is a stately Arcade for men to walke in, 
 and over that the shops of divers rare artists who continualy worke for 
 the great Duke. Above this is that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or Repo- 
 sitory, wherein are hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of marble 
 and mettal, vases of porphyrie, &c. ; but amongst the statues none so 
 famous as the Scipio, Boare, the Idol of Apollo brought from the Del- 
 phic Temple, and two triumphant columnes. Over these hang the 
 pictures of the most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or 
 amies, to the number of 300, taken out of the Museum of Paulus 
 Jovius. They then led us into a large square roome in the middle of 
 which stood a Cabinet of an octangular forme, so adorn'd and fur- 
 nish'd with christals, achat, sculptures, &c. as exceeds any description 
 This cabinet is called the Triiu/ia, and in it is a pearle as big as a 
 hazale nut.' The cabinet is of ebonie, lazuli, and jasper ; over the 
 door is a round of M. Angelo ; in the cabinet, Leo the Tenth, with 
 other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and Correggio, viz. 
 a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, 2 Apostles, 2 Heads of Durer rarely 
 carved. Over this cabinet is a Globe of ivory, excellently carved ; the 
 Labours of Hercules in massy silver, and many incomparable pictures 
 in small. There is another, which had about it 8 oriental columns of 
 alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head of a Cffisar, cover'd with 
 a canopy so richly set with precious stones that they resembled a firma- 
 ment of Starrs. Within it was our Saviour's Passion and 12 Apostles 
 in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hundred thousand crownes. 
 In another, with Calcidon pillars, was a series of golden medaills. 
 Here is also another rich ebony Cabinet cupola'd with a tortoise-shell 
 and containing a collection of gold medaills esteem'd worth 50,00a 
 crownes ; a wreathed pillar of oriental alabaster, divers paintings ol 
 
 1 Sir Gore Ouseley brought from Persia a picture of the Khan, now (1816) in his house in 
 Bruton-street, on whose dress are represented pearls of such a size as to make the one here 
 spoken of very insignificant. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 8l 
 
 Da Vinci, Pontorno, del Sarto, an Ecce Homo of Titian, a^^j/of Bron- 
 zini, &c. They sliew'd us a branch of corall fixed on the rock which 
 they affirme dos still grow. In another roome is kept the Tabernacle 
 appointed for the Chapel of St, Lawrence, about which are placed small 
 statues of Saints, of precious materials ; a piece of such art and cost, 
 that, having been these 40 years in perfecting, it is one of the most 
 curious things in the world. Here were divers tables of Pietra Comessa, 
 which is a marble ground inlay'd with severall sorts of marbles and 
 stones of various colours, representing flowers, trees, beasts, birds, and 
 landskips. In one is represented the town of Ligorne by the same 
 hand who inlay'd the altar of St. Lawrence, Domenico Benotti. I 
 purchased of him 19 pieces of the same worke tor a cabinet. In a 
 presse neere this they shew'd an yron nayle, one halfe whereof being 
 converted into gold by one Thornheuser, a German chymist, is look'd 
 on as a greate rarity, but it plainly appeared to have been soldered 
 together. There is a curious watch, a monstrous turquoise as big as 
 an egg, on which is carved an emperor's head. 
 
 In the Armory are kept manyantiq habits, as those of Chinese kings ; 
 the sword of Charlemain ; Hannibal's head-piece ; a loadstone of a 
 yard long, which bears up 86 lbs. weight, in a chaine of 17 links, such 
 as the slaves are tied to. In another roome are such rare toumeries in 
 ivory as are not to be described for their curiosity. There is a faire 
 pillar of oriental alabaster; 12 vast and compleate services of silver 
 plate, and one of gold, all of excellent workmanship ; a rich embrodred 
 saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke ; and here is that 
 embrodred chaire set with precious stones in which he sits, when, on 
 St. John's Day, he receives the tribute of the Citties. 
 
 25 Oct. We went to the Portico where the famous statues of Judith 
 and Holofernes stand, also the Medusa, all of copper ; but what is 
 most admirable is the Rape of a Sabine with another man under foot, 
 the confusion and turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of 
 one entire marble, the worke of John di Bologna, and is most stupen- 
 dous ; this stands directly against the greate Piazza, where, to adome 
 one lountaine, are erected four marble statues and eight of brasse, 
 representing Neptune and his family of sea-gods, of a Colossean magni- 
 tude, with lour sea-horses in Parian marble of Lamedrati ; this is ia 
 the midst of a very great basin, a work, I think, hardly to be parallel'd. 
 Here is also the famous statue of David by M. Angelo ; Hercules and 
 Cacus by Baccio Bandinelli ; the Perseus in copper by Benevento, and 
 the Judith of Donatelli, which stand publicldy before the old palace 
 with the Centaur of Bologna, huge Colossean figures. Neere this stands 
 Cosmo di Medici on horseback, in brasse on a pedistal of marble, and 
 four copper bass relievos by John di Bologna, with divers inscriptions ; 
 the Ferdinand the First on horseback is of Pietro Tacca. The brazen 
 Boare which serves for another publiq fountaine is admirable. 
 
 6 
 
82 THE CAVALERIZZO OF FLORENCE. PIAZZA OF THE COURT. 
 
 After dinner we went to the church of Annunciata, where the Duke 
 and his Court were at their devotions, being a place of extraordinary 
 repute for sanctity ; for here is a shrine that dos greate miracles, 
 [proved] by innumerable votive tablets, &c. covering almost the walles 
 of the whole church. This is the image of Gabriel who saluted the Bl. 
 Virgin, and which the artist finish'd so well that he was in despaire of 
 performing the Virgin's face, whereupon it was miraculously don for 
 him whilst he slept ; but others say if was painted by St. Luke him- 
 selfe. Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it. The 
 altar is set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted by 
 thirty greate silver lamps. There are innumerable other pictures by 
 rare masters. Our Saviour's passion in brasse tables inserted in marble 
 is the worke of John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli. 
 
 To this church joynes a Convent whose cloister is painted in fresca 
 very rarely. There is also neere it an Hospital for looo persons, with 
 nurse children, and several other charitable accom'odations. 
 
 At the Duke's Cavalerizzo, the Prince has a stable of the finest 
 horses of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, &c. 
 which are continualy exercis'd in the manage. 
 
 Nere this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves, 
 catts, beares, tygers, and lions. They are loose in a deep wall'd court, 
 and therefore to be scene with more pleasure than at the Tower of 
 London, in their grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height 
 to catch ajoynt of mutton which I caused to be hung downe. 
 
 ' There are many playne brick towers erected for defence when this 
 [Sienna] was a free state. The highest is called the Mangio, standing 
 at the foote of the Yvsazs., which we went first to see after our arival. 
 At the entrance of this tower is a Chapel, open towards the Piazza, of 
 marble well adorn'd with sculpture. 
 
 On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice, well built a 
 la moderna of brick ; indeed the bricks of Sienna are so well made 
 that they look almost as well as porphyrie itselfe, having a kind of na- 
 tural polish. 
 
 In the Senate House is a very faire hall where they sometimes en- 
 tertain the people with publiq shews and operas as they call them. 
 Towards the left are the statues of Romulus and Remus with the 
 Wolf, all of brasse, plac'd on a columne of ophite stone which they 
 report was brought from the renowned Ephesian Temple. These en- 
 signes being the armes of the towne, are set up in divers of the streetes 
 and publiq wayes both within and far without the citty. 
 
 The Piazza compasses the faciata of the Court and Chapel, and being 
 made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop 
 shell. The white ranges of pavement intermix'd with the excellent 
 bricks above mentioned, with which the town is generally well-paved, 
 
 There seemjs to be an omission in the MS. as to their leaving Florence and going to Sienna, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 83 
 
 render it very clean. About this market-place (for so it is) arc many 
 faire palaces, though not built with excesse of elegance. There stands 
 an Arch the worke of Baltazar di Sienna, built with wonderfull inge- 
 nuity so that it is not easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has 
 some imperceptible contignations which do not betray themselves easily 
 to the eye. On the edge of the Piazza is a goodly fountaine beautified 
 with statues, the water issuing out of the wolves mouths, being the 
 worke of Jacobo Quercei, a famous artist. There are divers other pub- 
 liq fountaines in the Citty, of good designe. 
 
 The Sapienza is the University, or rather CoUedg, where the High 
 Germans enjoy many particular privileges when they addict themselves 
 to the Civil Law. This place has produced many excellent scholars, 
 besides those three Popes, Alexander, Pius the Ilnd and the Ilird 
 of that name the learned .iEneas Sylvius, and both were of the antient 
 house of the Piccolomini. -^ 
 
 The chiefe streete is called Strada Romana, in which Pius the 
 Ilnd has built a most stately Palace of square stone with an incom- 
 parable portico joyning neere to it. The towne is com'anded by a 
 Castle which hath four bastions and a garison of souldiers. Neere it 
 is a List to ride horses in, much frequented by gallants in summer. 
 
 Not far from hence is the Church and Convent 01 the Dominicans, 
 where in the Chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna they shew her head, 
 the rest of her body being translated to Rome. The Domo or Cathe- 
 dral, both without and within, is of large square stones of black and 
 white marble polish'd, of inexpressible beauty, as is the front adorn'd 
 with sculpture and rare statues. In the middle is a stately cupola and 
 two columns of sundry streaked colour'd marble. About the body of 
 the Church on a cornice within, are inserted the heads of all the Popes. 
 The pulpit is beautified with marble figures, a piece of exquisite worke ; 
 but what exceeds all description is the pavement, where (besides the 
 various emblemes and other figures in the nave) the quire is wrought 
 with the History of the Bible, so artificialy express'd in the natural co- 
 lours of the marbles that few pictures exceede it. Here stands a Christo 
 rarely cut in marble, and on the large high Altar is a brasen vessell of 
 admirable invention and art. The organs are exceeding sweete and well 
 tun'd. On the left side of the altar is the Library, where are painted 
 the acts of .(Eneas Sylvius and others by Raphael. They shew'd us an 
 arme of St. John the Baptist, wherewith, they say, he baptized our 
 Saviour in Jordan ; it was given by the King of Peloponesus to one of 
 the Popes, as an inscription signifies. They also have St. Peter's 
 Sword, with which he smote off the ear of Malchus. 
 
 Just against the Cathedral we went into the Hospital, where they 
 entertain and refresh for three or four days, gratis, such pilgrimes as 
 go to Rome. In the Chapel belonging to it lies the body of St. Suso- 
 rius their founder, as yet uncorrupted though dead many hundreds of 
 
84 SIENNA ; MONT OLIVETO ; MUa'CATELLO ; MONTE PIENTIO. 
 
 yeares. They show one of the nailes which pierced our Saviour, and 
 St. Chrysostom's Comment on the Gospel written by his owne hand. 
 Below the hill stands the pool called Fonte Brande, where fish are fed 
 for pleasure more than foode. 
 
 St. Francis's Church is a large pile, neere which, yet a little without 
 the Citty, growes a tree which they report in their legend grew from the 
 Saint's staff, which on going to sleepe he fix'd in the ground, and at his 
 waking found it had grown a large tree. They affirme that the wood of 
 it in decoction cures sundry diseases. 
 
 2 Nov. We went from Sienna, desirous of being present at the Ca- 
 valcade of the new Pope Innocent X.' who had not yet made the grand 
 procession to St. John de Lateran. We set out by Porto Romano, the 
 country all about the towne being rare for hunting and game. Wild 
 boare and venison are frequently sold in the shops in many of the 
 townes about it. We pass'd neere Mont Oliveto, where the Monastrie 
 of that Order is pleasantly situated and worth seeing. Passing over a 
 bridg, which by the inscription, appears to have been built by Prince 
 Matthias, we went through Buon-Conventa, famous for the death of 
 the Emperor Hen. VII. who was here poison'd in the holy Eucharist. 
 Thence we came to Tormiero, where we din'd. This village is in a 
 sweete vally in view of Monte Alcini, famous for the rare Muscatello 
 wine. After three miles more we go by St. Querico, and lay at a pri- 
 vat Osteria neere it, where, after we were provided of lodging came in 
 Cardinal Doughi, a Genoese by birth, now come from Rome ; he was 
 so civil as to entertaine us with greate respect, hearing we were English, 
 for that, he told us, he had been once in our country. Amongst other 
 discourse he related how a dove was seen to sit on the chayre in the 
 Conclave at the election of Pope Innocent, which he magnified as a 
 greate good omen, with other particulars which we enquir'd of him, till 
 our suppers parted us. He came in great state with his owne bed- 
 stead and all the furniture, yet would by no meanes suffer us to resigne 
 the roome we had taken up in the lodging before his arival. Next 
 morning we rod by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called, Monte Man- 
 tuamiato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon peeping above 
 any clowds with its snowy head, till we had climbed to the inn at Radi- 
 cofany built by Ferdinand the greate Duke for the necessary refresh- 
 ment of travellers in so inhospitable a place. As we ascended we en- 
 tered a very thick, solid, and dark body of cloudes, which look'd like 
 rocks at a little distance, which lasted neere a mile in going up ; they 
 were dry misty vapours, hanging undissolved for a vast thicknesse, and 
 obscuring both the sun and earth, so that we seemed to be in the sea 
 rather than in the cloudes, till, having pierced through it we came into 
 a most serene heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation. 
 
 1 John Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in Oct. 1644, died in 165S. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 8S 
 
 the mountain appearing more like a greate island than joyn'd to any 
 other hills, for we could perceive nothing but a sea of thick cloudes 
 rowling under our feete like huge waves, every now and then suffering 
 the top of some other mountaine to peepe through, which we could dis- 
 cover many miles off : and betweene some breaches of the cloudes we 
 could see landskips and villages of the subjacent country. This was 
 one of the most pleasant, newe, and altogether surprizing objects that 
 I had ever beheld. 
 
 On the sum'it of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a very strong 
 Fort, garrison'd, and somewhat beneath it is a small Towne ; the pro- 
 visions are drawne up with ropes and engines, the precipice being other- 
 wise inaccessible. At one end of the towne lie heapes of rocks so 
 strangely broaken off from the ragged mountaine as would affright 
 one with their horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the 
 inn gushed out a plentifull and most useful fountaine, which falls into 
 a great trough of stone, bearing the Duke of Tuscany's armes. Here 
 we din'd, and I with my black lead pen tooke the prospect.' It is 
 one of the utmost confines of the Etrurian State towards St. Peter's 
 Patrimony since the gift of Matilda to Gregory 7, as they say. 
 
 Here we passe a stone bridg built by Pope Gregory XIV. and thence 
 immediately to Aquapendente,' a town situated on a very ragged 
 rock, down which precipitates an intire river with a horrid roaring 
 noise. From this river it has its name. We lay at the Post-house, on 
 which is this inscription : 
 
 " L'Insegna della Posta, 6 posta a posta. 
 In questa posta, fin che habbia &. sua posta 
 Ogn' un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta." 
 
 Before it was darke we went to seethe Monastery of the Franciscans, 
 famous for 6 learned Popes and sundry other great scholars, especialy 
 the renowned physician and anatomist Fabricius de Aquapendente, 
 who was bred and borne here. 
 
 4 Nov. After a little riding we descend towards the Lake of Bol- 
 sena, which being above 20 miles in circuit yields from hence a most 
 incomparable prospect. Neere the middle of it are 2 small islands, in 
 one of which is a Convent of melancholy Capucines. where those of the 
 Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it Tarquiniensis Lacus, and 
 talks of divers floting islands about it, but they did not appear to us. 
 The Lake is environ'd with mountaines, at one of whose sides we pass'd 
 towards the towne Bolsena, anciently Vulsinium, famous in those 
 times, as is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St. Chris- 
 tiana's Church, the urne, altar, and jasper columns. 
 
 After 7 miles riding, passing thro' a wood heretofore sacred to Juno, 
 we came to Monte Fiascone, the head of the Fahsci a famous people 
 
 1 An etching of it, with others, is in the Library at Wotton. 
 9 la miles from the Duke's Inn, accordmg to Lassells. 
 
86 THE DUTCH BISHOP. FALERNUM. ARRIVE AT ROME. 
 
 in old time, heretofore Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine, 
 as now for the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lyes buried in Faviano's 
 Church with this epitaph : 
 
 " Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est." 
 Because having ordered his servant to ride before, enquire where the 
 best wine was, and there write Est, the man found some so good that 
 he wrote Est, Est, and the Bishop drinking too much of it died. 
 
 From hence we travell a plain and pleasant champain to Viterbo, 
 which presents itselfe with much state afarr off, in reguard of her many 
 lofty pinnacles and toweres ; neither dos it deceive our expectation, for 
 it is exceedingly beautified with publiq fountaines, especialy that at the 
 entrance which is all of brasse and adorn'd with many rare figures, and 
 salutes the passenger with a most agreeable object and refreshing 
 waters. There are many Popes buried in this Citty, and in the Palace 
 is this odd inscription : — 
 
 " Osiridis victoriam in Gigantes litteris historiographicis in hoc 
 antiquissimo marmore inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi 
 Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversam : vetustiss : patriae monu- 
 menta atq' decora hie locandum statuit S. P. Q. V. 
 
 Under it : 
 
 Sum Osiris Rex Jupi- Sum Osiris Rex qui Sum Osiris Rex qui 
 
 ter universo in ter- ab Itaha in Gigantes terrarum pacato Ita- 
 
 rarum orbe. exercit u veni, vidi, et liam decern a'nos 
 
 vici. quorum inventor fui." 
 
 Neere the towne is a sulphureous fountaine which continualy boils. 
 After dinner we tooke horse by the new way of Capranica, and so 
 passing near Mount Ciminus and the Lake, we began to enter the 
 plains of Rome, at which sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, 
 but soon allay'd by so violent a shower which fell just as we were con- 
 templating that proud mistress of the world, and descending by the 
 Vatican (for at that gate we entered), that before we got into the Citty 
 I was wet to the skin. 
 
 I came to Rome on the 4 Nov. 1644, about 5 at night, and being 
 perplexed for a convenient lodging wandered up and down on horseback, 
 till at last one conducted us to Mons. Petit's, a Frenchman, near the 
 Piazza Spagnola. Here I ahghted, and having bargained with my host 
 for 20 crownes a moneth I caused a good fire to be made in my chamber 
 and went to bed, being so very wet. The next morning (for I was 
 resolved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted with several per- 
 sons who had long lived in Rome. I was especialy recommended to 
 Father John, a Benedictine monke and Superior of his Order for the 
 English College of Douay, a person of singular learning, religion, and 
 humanity ; also to Mr. Patrick Carey, an Abbot, brother to our learned 
 Lord Falkland, a witty young priest who afterwards came over to ou» 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 87 
 
 Church ; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs,' physicians who had dependence 
 on Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excellent poet ; Father 
 Cortnee, the Chiefe of the Jesuites in the English Colledge ; my Lord 
 of Somerset brother to the Marquiss of Worcester, and some others, 
 from whom I received instructions how to behave in towne, with direc- 
 tions to masters and bookes to take in search of the antiquities, churches, 
 collections, &c. Accordingly the next day, Nov. 6th, I began to be 
 very pragmatical? 
 
 In the first place our Sights-man ' (for so they name certain per- 
 sons here who get their living by leading strangers about to see the 
 City) went to the Palace Farnezi, a magnificent square structure, built 
 by Michael Angelo of the 3 orders of columns after the ancient man- 
 ner, and when Architecture was but newly recovered from the Gotic 
 barbarity. The court is square and tarrass'd, having two payre of 
 staires, which leade to the upper roomes, and conducted us to that 
 famous gallery painted by Agostino Caracci, than which nothing is 
 more rare of that art ; so deepe and well-studied are all the figures, 
 that it would require more judgment than I confesse I had, to deter- 
 mine whether they were fiat or emboss'd. Thence we passed into 
 another painted in chiaro osciiro, representing the fabulous history of 
 Hercules. We went out on a terrace, where was a pretty garden on 
 the leads, for it is built in a place that has no extent of ground back- 
 wards. The greate Hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, furnish'd 
 with statues, one of which being modem is a figure of one of the 
 Farnese in a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy of admira- 
 tion. Here we were shewed the Museum of Fulvius Ursinos replete 
 with innumerable collections ; but the Major Domo being absent, we 
 could not at this time see all we had a desire to see. Descending into 
 the court we with astonishment contemplated the 2 statues of Hercules 
 and Flora, so much celebrated by Pliny. There is a modern statue of 
 Hercules and two Gladiators not to be despis'd. In a second court 
 vvas a temporary shelter of boards over the most stupendous and never 
 to be sufficiently admir'd Torso of Amphion and Dirces, represented in 
 5 figures exceeding the life in magnitude, of the purest white marble, 
 the contending work of those famous statuaries, ApoUonius and Taurisco 
 in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire stone, and remaining 
 unblemished, to be valued beyond all the marbles of the world for its 
 
 I James Alban Gibbs, a Scotchman bred at Oxford, who resided many years at Rome, where 
 he died in 1677, and was blu*ied in the Pantheon thare with an epitaph to his memory under a 
 marble bust of him. He was an extraordinary character. In Wood's Athenae is along account 
 of him, and also some curious particulars in Warton's Life of Dr. Bathurst. He was a great 
 writer of Latin Poetry, a small collection of which he published at Rome, to which is prefixed 
 his portrait neatly engraved. 
 
 2 Mr. Evelyn must intend this in a good sense, very active and full of business, viz. what he 
 came upon, to view the antiquities and beauties of Rome, both ancient and modem. 
 
 ^ The present name for these gentlemen i« with the Italians a Cicerone^ but they affect iini' 
 vemally the title o( AHiiguaries, 
 
88 THE ROMAN TEMPLES, TRIUMPHAL ARCHES, COLUMNS, ETC 
 
 antiquity and workmanship. There are divers other heads and busts. 
 At the entrance of this stately Palace stands 2 rare and vast fountaines 
 of garnito stone, brought into this Piazza out of Titus's Bathes. Here 
 in sum'er the gentlemen of Rome take the fresco in their coaches and 
 on foote. At the sides of this court we vissited the Palace of Sign. 
 Pichini, who has a good collection of antiquities, especialy the Adonis 
 of Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel would once have purchas'd 
 if a greate price would have been taken for it. 
 
 7 Nov. We went into the Campo Vaccino by the ruines of the 
 Temple of Peace built by Titus Vespasianus, thought to be the 
 largest, as well as the most richly furnish'd, of all the Roman dedi- 
 cated places ; it is now an heape rather than a temple, yet the roote 
 and volto continue firme, shewing it to have been formerly of incom- 
 parable workmanship. This goodly structure was, none knows how, 
 consum'd by fire the very night, by all computation, that our Saviour 
 was born. 
 
 Hence we passed by the place into which Curtius precipitated him- 
 self for the love of his country, now without any sign of a lake or 
 vorago. Neere this stand some columns of white marble, of exquisite 
 worke, supposed to be part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans built by 
 Augustus ; the worke of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave 
 is excellent, full of sacrificing utensils. There are 3 other of Jupiter 
 S?ator. Opposite to these are the Oratories or Churches of St. Cosmo 
 and Damiano, heretofore the Temples of Romulus and Remus, a pretty 
 odd fabriq, with a Tribunal, or Tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. 
 The gates before it are brasse, and the whole much obliged to Pope 
 Urban the 8th. Here lie the bodies of those 2 Martyrs ; and in a 
 Chapel on the right hand is a rare painting of Cavaliero Baylione. We 
 next entered St. Laurenzo in Miranda. The portico is supported by a 
 range of most stately columns ; the inscription cut in the architrave 
 shews it to have been the Temple of Faustina. It is now made a faire 
 Church, and has an Hospital which joines it. On the same side is St. 
 Adriano, heretofore dedicated to Saturne. Before this was once placed 
 a Miliary Column, supposed to be set in the center of the Citty, from 
 whence they us'd to compute the distance of all the citties and places 
 of note under the dominion of those universal Monarchs. To this 
 Church are likewise brazen gates and a noble front. Just opposite they 
 shew'd us heapes and ruines of Cicero's Palace. Hence we went towards 
 Mons Capitolinus, at the foote of which stands the Arch of Septimius 
 Severus, full and entire, save where the pedestal and some of the lov/er 
 members are choaked up with ruines and earth. This Arch is exceed- 
 ingly inrich'd with sculpture and trophies, with a large inscription. In 
 the terrestrial and naval battailes here graven is seen the Roman Aries 
 fthe battering-ram]. This was the first triumphal arch set up in Rome. 
 The Capitol, to which we climbed by very broad steps, is built about a 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 89 
 
 square court, at the right hand of which going up from Campo Vaccino 
 gushes a plentifull streame from the statue of Tybur in porphyry, very 
 antiq, and another representing Rome ; but above all is the admirable 
 figure of Marforius casting water into a most ample Concha. The 
 front of this court is crowned with an excellent fabriq containing the 
 Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal Notary sits, and others. In 
 one of the Halls they shew the statues of Gregory XIII. and Paule III. 
 with several others. To this joynes a handsome Tower, the whole 
 faciata adorn'd with noble statues both on the outside and on the bat- 
 tlements, ascended by a double payre of staires, and a stately Posario. 
 In the center of the court stands that incomparable Horse bearing the 
 Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of Corinthian mettal, 
 placed on a pedestal of marble, esteemed one of the noblest pieces 
 of worke now extant, antique and very rare. There is also a vast Head 
 of a Colossean magnitude, of white marble, fixed in the wall. At the 
 descending stayres are sett two Horses of white marble governed by 2 
 naked Slaves, taken to be meant for Castor and Pollux, brought from 
 Pompey's Theatre. On the balustrade the Trophies of Marius against 
 the Cimbrians, very ancient and instructive. At the foote of the stepps 
 towards the left hand is that Colonna Miliaria with the globe of brasse 
 on it, mention'd to have been formerly sett in Campo Vaccino. On the 
 same hand is the Palace of the Segniori Conservatori, or 3 Consuls, 
 now the Civil Governors of the Citty, containing the Fraternities or 
 Halls (or Guilds, as we call them) of sundry Companys, and other 
 officers of state. Under the Portico within, are the statues of Augustus 
 Cjesar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, 
 with the excellent bassi relievi. In a smaller court are the statue of 
 Constantine on a fountaine, a Minerva's head of brasse, and that of 
 Com'odus to which belongs an hand the thumb of which is at least an 
 ell long, but the rest of the Colosse is lost. In the corner of this Court 
 stand an horse and lyon fighting, as big as life, in white marble, 
 exceedingly valu'd ; likewise the Rape of the Sabines ; 2 cumbent 
 figures of Alexander and Mammea ; 2 monstrous feete of a Colosse of 
 Apollo ; the sepulchre of Agrippina ; and the Standard, orantiq measure 
 of the Roman foote. Ascending by the stepps of the other corner, are 
 inserted fower basse relievo's, viz. the triumph and sacrifice of Marcus 
 Aurelius, which last, for the antiquity and rareness of the worke, I 
 caused my painter Carlo Neapolitano to copy. There are also 2 
 statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian the Emperor ; above stands 
 the figure of Marius, and by the wall Marsias bound to a tree ; all of 
 them excellent and antique. Above, in the Lobby, are inserted into 
 the walls those ancient laws on brasse call'd the 12 Tables; a faire 
 Madona of Pietro Perugino, painted on the wall ; neere which are the 
 Archives full of ancient records. In the great HaU are divers excellent 
 paintings of Cavaliero Giuseppe d'Arpino, a statue in brasse of Sixtus 
 
90 THE CAPITAL ; ARA CCELI. TARPEIAN ROCK. 
 
 V. and of Leo X. of marble. In another Hall are many modern statues 
 of their late Consuls and Governors, set about with fine antique heads ; 
 others are painted by excellent masters, representing the actions of M. 
 Scsvola, Horatius Codes, &c. — The room where the Conservatori now 
 feast on solemn days is tapisstred with crimson damasq embrodred 
 with gold, haveing a state or balduquino of crimson velvet very rich, 
 the frieze above rarely painted. Here are in brasse, Romulus and 
 Remus sucking the wolfe, with the^shepherd Faustulus by them ; also 
 the Boy plucking the thofne^out of his fodfe "ffn "brasse) "so" much 
 admir'd by artists. There are also holy statues and heads of saints. 
 In a Gallery neere adjoyning are the names of the ancient Consuls, 
 Praetors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by the learned ; also the 
 figure of an old woman ; 2 others representing Poverty ; and more in 
 fragments. In another large roome furnish'd with velvet are the statue 
 of Adonis very rare, and divers antiq heads. In the next chamber is 
 an old statue of Cicero, one of another Consul, an Hercules in brasse, 
 2 women's heads of incomparable worke, six other statues, and over 
 the chimny a very rare basso relievo and other figures. In a little 
 Lobby before the Chapell is the statue of Hanniball, a Bacchus very 
 antiq, bustos of Pan and Mercury, with other old heads. All these 
 noble statues, &c. belong to the Citty, and cannot be dispos'd of to 
 any privat person or remov'd hence, but are preserv'd for the honor 
 of the place, though greate sumes have been offer'd for them by divers 
 greate Princes lovers of art and antiquity. We now left the Capitol, 
 certainely one of the most renowned places in the world, even as now 
 built by the designe of the famous M. Angelo. 
 
 Returning home by Ara Cosli, we mounted to it by more than 100 
 marble stepps, not in devotion, as I observed some to do on their bare 
 knees, but to see those two famous statues of Constantine in white 
 marble, placed there out of his Bathes. In this Church is a Madona, 
 reported to be painted by St. Luke, and a column, on which we saw the 
 print of a foote which they affirme to have been that of the Angel, scene 
 on the Castle of St. Angelo. Here the feast of our blessed Saviour's 
 nativity being yearely celebrated with divers pageants, they began to 
 make the preparation. Having viewed the Palace and Fountaine at 
 the other side of the stayres, we return'd weary to our lodgings. 
 
 On the 7th we went again towards the Capitol, towards the Tarpeian 
 rock, whence it has a goodly prospect of the Tyber. Thence descend- 
 ing by the TuUianum, where they told us St. Peter was imprisoned, 
 they shew'd us a Chapell in which a rocky side of it beares the impres- 
 sion of his face. In the nave of the Church gushes a fountaine which 
 they say was caused by the Apostle's prayers, when having converted 
 some of his fellow-captives he wanted water to baptize them. We then 
 walked about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, and thence to the 
 Circus Maximus, capable of holdin g 40,000 spectators, now a heap oi 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 91 
 
 mines converted into gardens. Then by the Forum Boarium, where 
 they have a tradition that Hercules slew Cacus, some ruines of his 
 Temple remaining. The Temple of Janus quadrifrontis, having 4 
 arches importing the 4 Seasons, and on each side niches for the Mo- 
 nethes, is still a substantial and pretty entire antiquity. Neere this is 
 the Arcus Argentariorum. Bending now towards the Tyber we went 
 into the Theater of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 persons, built 
 by Augustus and dedicated to his nephew ; the architecture trom what 
 remaines appeares to be inferior to none. It is now wholly converted 
 into the house of the SavelIi,.one ot the old Roman families. The people 
 were now generally busye in erecting temporary triumphs and arches 
 with statues and flattering inscriptions against his Holinesse's grand 
 procession to St. John de Lateran, amongst which the Jewes also began 
 one in testimony of gratitude for their protection under the Papal State. 
 The Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's Architect, Ca- 
 vaUero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely an object as any 
 moderne building in Europ. It has a double Portico, at the end of 
 which we ascended by 2 paire of oval stayres all of stone and voide in 
 the well. One of these led us into a stately Hall, the volto whereof 
 was newly painted a fresca by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini di 
 Cortona. To this is annex'd a Gallery compleately fumish'd with 
 whatever art can call rare and singular, and a Library full of worthy 
 collections, medails, marbles, and manuscripts, but above all an Egyp- 
 tian Osyris, remarkable for the material being unknown and for its 
 antiquity. In one of the rooms neere this hangs the Sposaliccio of St. 
 Sebastian, the original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a copy 
 little inferior to the prototype ; a table in my judgment superior to any 
 thing I had seen in Rome. In the Court is a vast broaken Gulio Obe- 
 lisk having divers hieroglyphics cut on it. 
 
 8 Nov. We visited the Jesuites Church, the front whereof is 
 esteem'd a noble piece of architecture, the designe of Jacomo della 
 Porta and the famous Vignola. In this Church lies the body of their 
 renown'd Ignatius Loyola, an arme of Xaverius, their other Apostle, 
 and at the right end of their high altar their Champion Card : Bellar- 
 mine. Father Kircherus (professor of Mathematics and of the Oriental 
 tongues) shew'd us^ many singular courtesies, leading us into their 
 Refectory, Dispensatory, Laboratory, Gardens, and finally (through an 
 Hall hung round with pictures of such of their order as had been 
 executed for their pragmatical and buisy adventures) into his own 
 study, where, with Dutch patience, he shew'd us his perpetual motions, 
 catoptrics, magnetical experiments, models, and a thousand other 
 crotchets and devices, most of them since published by himselfe or 
 his industrious scholar Schotti. 
 
 Returning home we view'd the Palazzo de Medici, which was a 
 house of the Duke of Florence, neere our lodging, on the brow of 
 
93 STATUES OF K lOBE. ORATORY OF PHIL. NERIUS AND LENNIAS, 
 
 Mons Pincius, having a fine prospect towards the Campo Marzo. It 
 is a magnificent, strong building, having a substruction very remark- 
 able, and a portico supported with columns towards the gardens, with 
 two huge lions of marble at the end of the balustrade. The whole out- 
 side of the faciata is incrusted with antiq and rare basse-relieves and 
 statues. Descending into the garden is a noble fountaine govern'd by 
 a Mercur)' of brasse. At a little distance on the left is a lodge full of 
 fine statues, amongst which the Sabines is antiq and singularly rare. 
 In the arcado neere this stand 24 statues of great price, and hard by is 
 a mount planted with cypresses representing a fortresse, with a goodly 
 fountaine in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with white 
 marble, covered over with the natural shrubbs, ivy, and other pe- 
 rennial greenes, divers statues and heads being placed as in niches. 
 At a httle distance are those fam'd statues of Niobe and her family, in 
 all 15, as large as the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, 
 esteemed among the best pieces of worke in the world for the passions 
 they expresse, and all other perfections of that stupendous art. There 
 is in this garden a faire obeUsq full of hieroglyphics. In going out, 
 the fountaine before the front casts water neere 50 foote in height 
 when it is received in a most ample marble basin. Here they usually 
 rode the greate-horse every morning, which gave me much diversion 
 from the terrace of my owne chamber, where I could see all their 
 motions. 1 his evening I was invited to heare rare musiq at the Chiesa 
 Nova ; the black marble pillars within led us to that most precious 
 Oratory of Philippus Nerius their founder, they being of the oratory 
 of secular priests, under no vow. There are in it divers good pictures, 
 as the Assumption of Girolamo Mutiano ; the Crucifix j the Visitation 
 of Elizabeth J- the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin; Christo Sepolto 
 of Guido Rheno, Caravagio, Arpino, and others. This faire Church 
 consists of 14 altars and as many chapells. In it is buried (besides 
 their Saint) Caesar Baronius the greate annalist. Through this we 
 went into the Sacristia, where, the tapers being lighted, one of 
 the Order preach'd ; after him stepp'd up a child of 8 or 9 years old 
 who pronounced an oration with so much grace, that I never was better 
 pleas'd than to heare Italian so well and so intelligently spoken. This 
 course it seemes they frequently use, to bring their scholars to a 
 habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their action and assurance, 
 which none so much want as ours in England. This being finish'd 
 began their Motettos, which, in a lofty cupola richly painted, were 
 sung by eunuchs and other rare voices, accompanied with theorbos, 
 harpsicors, and viols, so that we were even ravish'd with the enter- 
 tainment of the evening. This roome is painted by Cortona, and has 
 in it two figures in the niches, and the Church stands in one of the 
 most stately streetes of Rome. 
 
 10 Nov. We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa where was for- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 93 
 
 merly the Viridarium of the poet Sallust. The house is very mag- 
 nificent, and the extent of the ground is exceeding large considering 
 that it is in a Citty ; in every quarter of the garden are antiq statues, 
 and walkes planted with cypresse. To this garden belongs a house oi 
 retirement built in the figure of a crosse after a particular ordonance, 
 especially the stayrecase. The whitenesse and smoothnesse of the par- 
 geting was a thing I much observ'd, being almost as even and poHsh'd 
 as if it had been marble. Above is a faire prospect of the Citty. In 
 one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of Bassano, the one a 
 Vulcan, the other a Nativity ! there is a German clock full of rare and 
 extraordinary motions, and in a little room below are many precious 
 marbles, columns, urnes, vasas, and noble statues of porphyry. Orien- 
 tal alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabriq is an ample 
 area, environ'd with 16 vast jarrs of red earth wherein the Romans us'd 
 to preserve their oyle, or wine rather, which they buried, and such as 
 are properly called Testa. I must never forget the famous statue of 
 the Gladiator spoken of by Pliny, so much foUow'd by all the rare ar- 
 tists as the many copies testifie, dispersed through almost all Europ 
 both in stone and metal. There is also an Hercules, a head of por- 
 phyrie, and one of Marcus Aurelius. In the villa-house is a man's 
 body, flesh and all, petrified and even converted to marble, as it was 
 found in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to one of the Popes ; it 
 lay in a chest or coffin lin'd with black velvet, and one of the armes 
 being broken, you mav see the perfect bone from the flesh which re- 
 mains intire. The Rape of Proserpine in marble is of the purest 
 white, the worke of Bernini. In the cabinet neere it are innumerable 
 small brasse figures and other curiosities. But what some look upon 
 as exceeding all the rest, is a very rich bedstead (which sort of grosse 
 furniture the Italians much glory in, as formerly did our grandfathers 
 in England in their inlaid wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of precious 
 stones and antiq heads, onyxs, achates, and cornelians, esteem'd to be 
 worth 80 or 90,000 crownes. Here are also divers cabinets and tables 
 of the Florence work, besides pictures in the gallery especialy the 
 Apollo. There is a chayre to sleepe in with the leggs stretcht out, 
 with books, and pieces of wood to draw out longer or shorter. 
 
 From this we went to see Sign. Angeloni's study, who very courte- 
 ously shew'd us such a collection of rare medaills as is hardly to be 
 parallel'd ; divers good pictures, and many outlandish and Indian curi- 
 Dsities and things of nature. 
 
 Hence we went to Monte Cavallo, heretofore call'd Mons. Quiri- 
 nalis, where we saw those two rare horses, the worke of the rivals 
 Phidias and Praxiteles, as they were sent as a present to Nero [by Tiri- 
 dates King] out of Arminia. They were placed on pedestals of white 
 marble by Sixtus V. by whom I suppose their injuries were repair'd. 
 They are govem'd by 4 naked slaves like those at the foote of the 
 
94 PALACE OF THE POPE. BATHS OF DIOCLESIAN. FONS FELIX. 
 
 Capitol. Here runs a most noble fountaine, faceing fower of the most 
 stately streetes for building and beauty to be seen in any Citty of 
 Europ. Opposite to these statues is the Pope's Sum'er Palace, built 
 by Gregory XIII. and in my opinion for the largeness and the archi- 
 tecture one of the most conspicuous in Rome. It has a stately portico 
 which leads round the court under columns, in the center of which runs 
 a beautiful! fountaine. The chapell is incrusted with such precious 
 materials, that nothing can be more rich or glorious, nor are the other 
 ornaments and moveables about it at all inferior. The hall is painted 
 by Lanfranci and others. The garden which is call'd the Belvedere di 
 Monte Cavallo, in emulation to that of the Vatican, is most excellent 
 for ayre and prospect, its exquisite fountaines, close walkes, grotts, 
 piscinas or stews for fish, planted about with venerable cypresses, and 
 refresh'd with water-musiq, aviaries, and other rarities. 
 
 12 Nov. We saw Dioclesian's Bathes, whose mines testifie the 
 vastness of the original foundation and magnificence ; by what 
 M. Angelo tooke from the ornaments about it, 'tis sayd he restor'd 
 the then almost lost art of architecture. This monstrous pile was 
 built by the labour of the primitive Christians, then under one of 
 the ten great persecutions. The Church of St. Bernardo is made out 
 of one onely of these ruinous cupolas, and is in the form of an urne 
 with a cover. 
 
 Opposite to this is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise call'd Fons 
 Felix ; in it is a basso relievo of white marble representing Moses 
 striking the rock, which is adorn'd with camels, men, women, an'' 
 children drinking, as large as life ; a worke for the designe and vast- 
 nesse truly magnificent. The water is convey'd no lesse than 22 miles 
 in an aqueduct by Sixtus V. ex agro Columna by way of Praneste, 
 as the inscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavors rais'd 
 about with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black 
 stone very rare and antiq. Neere this are the Store-houses for the 
 Citty's come, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna where 
 were the gardens of Sallust. The faciata of this church is noble, the 
 soffito within is gilded and full of pictures ; especialy famous is that 
 of Susanna, by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar 
 is of exquisite worke, from whose marble stepps you descend under- 
 ground to the repository of divers Saints. The picture over this altar is 
 the worke of Jac. Siciliano. The foundation is for Bernadine Nunns. 
 
 Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most ravishing front 
 In this church was sung the Te Deuin by Greg. XV. after the signal 
 victory of the Emperor at Prague ; the standards then taken still hang 
 up, and the impresse waving with this motto over the Pope's armes, 
 Extirpentur. The high altar was much frequented for an image of 
 the Virgine. There are some rare statues : there is Paule ravish'd 
 into the third heaven, by Ger. Fiamengo, and some good pictures. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 95 
 
 We went again to Dioclesian's Bathes, never satisfied witli contem- 
 plating that immense pile, in building which 150,000 Christians were 
 destin'd to labour 14 yeares and were then all murther'd. Here is a 
 Monastery of Carthusians call'd Santa Maria degli Angeli, the architec- 
 ture of M. Angelo, the cloister encompassing walls in an ample garden. 
 
 Mont Alto's Villa is enter'd by a stately gate of stone built on the 
 Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious parke full of fountaines, 
 especialy that which salutes us at the front ; stews for fish ; the cypresse 
 walkes are so beset with statues, inscriptions, relievos, and other 
 ancient marbles, that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The 
 citron-trees are uncommonly large. In the Palace joining to it are in- 
 numerable collections of value. 
 
 In St. Agnes Church is a tribunal of antiq Mosaiq, and on the altar 
 a most rich Ciborio of brasse with a statue of St. Agnes in Oriental 
 alabaster. The Church of Santa Constanza has a noble cupola. Here 
 they shew'd us a stone ship borne on a column heretofore sacred 
 to Bacchus, as the relievo intimates by the drunken emblemes and in- 
 struments wrought upon it. The altar is of rich porphyrie, as I remem- 
 ber. Looking back we had the intire view of the Via Pia downe to the 
 two houses before the Monte Cavallo before mention'd, one of the most 
 glorious sights for state and magnificence that any Citty can shew 
 a traveller. We retum'd by Porta Pia and the Via Salaria, neere 
 Campo Scelerato, in whose gloomy caves the wanton vestals were here- 
 tofore im'ured alive. 
 
 Thence to Via Felix a straite and noble streete but very precipitous, 
 till we came to the Fountaines of Lepidus, built at the abbutments of 4 
 stately wayes, making an exact Crosse of right angles ; and at the 
 Fountaines are as many cumbent figures of marble under very large 
 niches of stone, the water pouring into huge basins. The Church of 
 St. Carlo is a singular fabriq for neatnesse, of an oval designe, built of 
 a new white stone ; the columns are worth notice. Under it is another 
 Church of a structure nothing lesse admirable. 
 
 Santa Maria Maggiore is on the Esquiline Mountaine, which gives 
 it a most conspicuous face to the streete at a greate distance. The de- 
 sign is mix'd, partly antiq, partly moderne. Here they affirme that the 
 Bl. Virgin appearing, shew'd where it should be built 300 yeares since. 
 The first pavement is rare and antiq ; so is the portico built by P. P. 
 Eugenius II. The Ciborio is the worke of Paris Romano, and the 
 Tribunal of Mosaic. We were shew'd in the Church a Concha of por- 
 phyrie wherein they say Patricius the founder lyes. This is one of the 
 most famous of the 7 Roman Churches, and is in my opinion at least, 
 after St. Peter's, the most magnificent. Above all, for incomparable 
 glory and materials, are the two Chapels of Sextus V. and Paulus V. 
 That of Sextus was design'd by Dom. Fontana, in which are two rare 
 greate statues, and some good pieces of painting ; and here they pre- 
 
96 THE INNOCEKTS ; CRIB OF BETHLEHEM ; STUMP OF TORTURE. 
 
 tended to shew some of the Holy Innocents bodyes slaine by Herod. 
 That renown'd tabernacle of metall gilt, sustain'd by 4 angels holding 
 as many tapers, is placed on the altar. In this Chapel is the statue of 
 Sextus in copper, with basse relievo's of most of his famous acts in 
 Parian marble. But that of P. Paulus opposite to this, is beyond all 
 imagination glorious and beyond description. It is so incircl'd with 
 achates and other most precious materials as to dazzle and confound the 
 beholders. The basse relievo's are for the most part of pure snowy 
 marble, intermixed with figures of molten brasse double gilt on lapis 
 lazuli. The altar is a most stupendous piece ; but most incomparable 
 is the cupola, painted by Cavaliero Giuseppe Rheni and the present 
 Baglioni, full of exquisite sculptures. There is a most sumptuous Sa- 
 cristia ; and the piece over the altar was by the hand of St. Luke , if 
 you_will believe jt. Paule V. hath here likewise built two other altars ; 
 under the one lye the bones of the Apostle St. Mathias. In another 
 Oratory is the statue of this Pope, and the head of the Conga Ambas- 
 sador who was converted at Rome and dy'd here. In a third Chapel 
 design'd by M. Angelo lyes the body of Platina, and the Cardinal 
 of Toledo, Honorius III. Nicephorus IV. the ashes of St. Hierom, and 
 many others. In that of Sextus V. before mentioned was shew'd us 
 part of the crib in which Christ was swaddl'd at Bethlem ; there is also 
 the statue of Pius V. Going out at the further end is the resurrection 
 of Lazarus by a very rare hand. In the portico is this late inscription : 
 " Cardinali Antonio Barberino Archipresbytero, aream marmoream 
 quam Christianorum pietas exculpit, laborante sub Tyrannis ecclesia^ 
 ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, Franciscus Gualdus Arm. Eques 
 5. Stepbani, h suis sedibus hue transtulit et ornavit 1632." Just before 
 this portico stands a very sublime and stately Corinthian columne of 
 white marble, translated hither for an ornament from the old Temple 
 of Peace built by Vespasian, having on the plinth of the capital the 
 image of our Lady gilt on mettal ; at the pedestal runs a fountaine.— 
 Going downe the hill we saw the Obelisq taken from the Mauso- 
 leum of Augustus, and erected in this place by Domenico Fontana, 
 with this epigraphe : " Sixtus V. Pont. Max. obeliscum .lEgypto ad- 
 vectum, Augusti in mausoleo dicatum, eversum deinde et in plures 
 confractum partes, in via ad. S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam 
 faciem restitutum, Salutiferas Cruci felicius hie erigi jussit anno 
 M.D.L.XXXVIII. Pont III." 
 
 At the foote of this hill is the Church of Pudentia, in which is a 
 well fiU'd with the blood and bones of several Martyrs, but grated over 
 with yron ; it is visited by many Devota's. Neere this is the Church 
 of her sister S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a 
 little obscure place cancelled in with yron worke, is the Pillar or Stump 
 at which they relate our Bl. Saviour was scourged, being full of bloudy 
 spotts, at which the devout sex are always rubbing their chaplets, and 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 97 
 
 convey their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here, besides a 
 nobk statue of St. Peter is the tombe of the famous Cardinal Cajetan, 
 an excellent piece. Here they hold that St. Peter sayd his first masse 
 at Rome with the same altar and the stone he kneeled on, he having 
 been first lodged in this house, as they compute, about the 44th yeare 
 of the incarnation. They also shew many reliques, or rather raggs, of his 
 mantle. In the Church of Laurence in Panisperna is the Gridiron on 
 which that Martyr was broyl'd. St. Brigit is buried in this Church under 
 a stately monument. In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Lau- 
 rence painted a/r^jca on the wall. The frabriq is nothing but Gotic. On 
 the left is theTherma Novatii, and on the right Agrippina's Lavacrum. 
 
 14 Nov. We pass'd againe thro' the stately Capitol and Campo 
 Vaccino towards the Amphitheatre of Vespasian, but were first stay'd 
 to looke at Titus's triumphal Arch erected by the people of Rome in 
 honour of his victory at Jerusalem, on the left hand whereof he is 
 represented drawne in a charriot with 4 horses abreast ; on the right- 
 hand, or side of the arch within, is sculptur'd in figures, or basse re- 
 lievo as big as the life, and in one intire marble, the Arke of the Cove- 
 nant, on which stands the seaven-branch'd candlestick describ'd in Le- 
 viticus, as also the two Tables of the Law, all borne on men's shoul- 
 ders by the barrs, as they are describ'd in some of St. Hierom's Bibles ; 
 before this go many crown'd and laureated figures, and 12 Roman 
 fasces, with sacred vessels. This much confirmed the idea I before 
 had; and, for the light it gave to the Holy History, I caused my 
 paynter Carlo to copy it exactly. The rest of the worke of the Arch is 
 of the noblest, best understood composita. 
 
 Santa Maria Nova is on the place where they told us Simon Magus 
 fell out of the ayre at St. Peter's prayer, and burst himselfe to pieces 
 on a flint. Neere this is a marble monument erected by the people of 
 Rome in memory of the Pope's returne from Avignon. 
 
 Being now pass'd the mines of Meta sudante (which stood be- 
 fore the Colosseum) grovided to refresh the gladiators, we enter the 
 mighty mines of the Vespasian Amphitheatre, begun by Vespasian, and 
 finished by that excellent prince Titus. It is 830 Roman palmes in 
 length (/. e, 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area, with caves for the 
 wild beasts which us'd to be baited by men instead of doggs ; the 
 whole oval peripheria 2888^ palmes, and capable of containing 87,000 
 spectators with ease and all accom'odation : the 3 rowes of circles are 
 yet entire ; the first was for the senators, the middle for the jobility, 
 the third for the people. At the dedication of this place were 5000 
 wild beasts slain in 3 months during which the feast lasted, to the ex- 
 pence of 10 millions of gold. It is built of Tiburtine stone, a vast 
 height, with the S orders of architecture, by 30,000 captive Jewes. It 
 is, without, of a perfect circle, and was once adorn'd thick with statues, 
 and remained intire till of late that some of tiie stones were carried 
 
 7 
 
98 AMPHITHEATRE OF VESPASIAN. ARCH OF CONSTANTINE. 
 
 away to repaire the Citty walls and build the Farnesian Palace. That 
 which still appeares most admirable is, the contrivance of the porticos, 
 vaults, and staires, with the excessive altitude, which well deserves this 
 distich of the poet : 
 
 " Omnis Cassario cedat labor Amphitheatro, 
 Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus." 
 Neere it is a small chapell call'd Sta Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo, 
 which is erected on the steps or stages very lofty at one of its sides or 
 ranges within, and where there lives only a melancholy hermite. I 
 ascended to the very top of it with wonderfull admiration. 
 
 The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta sudante 
 before mentioned, at the beginning of the Via Appia on one side of 
 Monte Celio, and is perfectly intire, erected by the people in memory 
 of his victory over Maxentius at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole. 
 In the front is this inscription : 
 
 IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO 
 
 P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. Q. R. 
 
 QVOD INSTINCTV DIFINITATIS MENTIS 
 
 MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO 
 
 TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS 
 
 FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS 
 
 REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS 
 
 ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT. 
 
 Hence we went to St. Gregorio in Monte Celio, where are many 
 privileged altars, and there they shew'd us an arme of that Saint and 
 other reliques. Before this Church stands a very noble portico. 
 
 17. I walked to Villa Borghesi, a house and ample garden on 
 Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the Citty walls, circumscrib'd by 
 another wall full of small turrets and banqueting-houses, which makes 
 it appeare at a distance like a little towne. Within it is an elysium 
 of delight, having in the centre a noble Palace ; but the enterance of 
 the garden presents us with a very glorious fabrick or rather dore- 
 case adorn'd with divers excellent marble statues. This garden 
 abounded with all sorts of delicious fruit and exotiq simples, fountaines 
 of sundry inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also ad- 
 joining to it a vivarium for estriges, peacocks, swanns, cranes, &c. and 
 divers strange beasts, deare, and hares. The grotto is very rare, and 
 represents among other devices artificial raine, and sundry shapes 
 of vessells, flowers, &c. which is effected by changing the heads of 
 the fountaines. The groves are of cypresse, laurell, pine, myrtil, 
 olive, &c. The 4 sphinxes are very antique and worthy observation. 
 To this is a volary full of curious birds. The house is square, with 
 turrets from which the prospect is excellent towards Rome and the 
 invironing hills covered as they now are with snow, which indeed com- 
 monly continues even a great part of the sum'er, affording great 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 99 
 
 refreshment. Round the house is a balustre of white marble, with 
 frequent jettos of water, and adorn'd with a multitude of statues. The 
 walls of the house are cover'd with antiq incrustations of history, as 
 that of Curtius, the Rape of Europa, Leda, &c. The cornices above 
 consist of frutages and festoons, between which are niches furnish'd with 
 statues, which order is observ'd to the very roofe. In the lodge at the 
 entry are divers good statues of consuls, &c. with two pieces of field 
 artillery upon carriages (a mode much practized in Italy before the 
 great men's houses), which they looke on as a piece of state more than 
 defence. In the first hall within are the 12 Roman Emperors, ol 
 excellent marble : 'twixt them stand porphyry columns and other 
 precious stones of vast height and magnitude, with urnes of Oriental 
 alabaster. Tables of Pietra-Commessa. Here is that renown'd Diana 
 which Pompey worshipp'd ; the most incomparablcSeneca, of touch 
 bleeding in an huge vasa of porphyrie, resembling the dropps of 
 his blood ; the so famous gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon 
 a quilt _ of _ stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, ot 
 Cavaliero Bernini, is observable for the pure whiteness of the stone, 
 and the art of the statuary which is stupendious. There are a multitude 
 of rare pictures of infinite value by the best masters ; huge tables of 
 porphyrie, and two exquisitely-wrought vases of the same. In another 
 chamber are divers sorts of instruments of musiq : amongst other toyes 
 that of a satyre with so artificialy express'd an human voice, with 
 the motion of eyes and head, that it might easily affright one who was 
 not prepared for that most extravagant sight. They shew'd us also a 
 chayre which catches any who sitts downe in it so as not to be able 
 to stirr out, by certaine springs concealed in the armes and back 
 thereoff, which at sitting downe surprizes a man on the suddaine, lock- 
 ing him in by the armes and thighs, after a true tretcherous Italian 
 guise. The perspective is considerable, compos'd by the position of 
 looking-glasses, which render a strange multiplication of things re- 
 sembling divers most richly-furnish'd roomes. Here stands a rare clock 
 of German worke ; in a Word, nothing but what is magnificent is to be 
 seen in this paradise. 
 
 The next day I went to the Vatican, where in the morning I saw 
 the ceremony of Pamfilio the Pope's nephew receiving a Cardinal's 
 hat ; this was the first time I had seen his holiness in pontificalibus. 
 After the Cardinals and Princes had met in the Consistory, the cere- 
 mony was in the Pope's Chapell, where he was at the altar invested 
 with most pompous rites. 
 
 17 Nov. I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendious and incom- 
 parable Basilicum, far surpassing any now extant in the world, and 
 perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any that was ever built. The 
 largeness of the piazza before the portico is worth observing, because it 
 affords a noble prospect of the Church, not crowded up as for the most 
 
 
100 DESCRIPTION OF THE OBELISK BROUGHT FROM EGYPT. 
 
 part is the case in other places where greate churches are erected. In 
 this is a fountaine out of which gushes a river rather than a streeme, 
 which ascending a good height breakes upon a round embosse of marble 
 into millions of pearles that fall into the subjacent basons with greate 
 noise ; I esteeme this one of the goodliest fountaines I ever saw. 
 
 Next is the Obelisq transported out of Egypt and dedicated by 
 Octavius Augustus to Julius Caesar, whose ashes it formerly bo re 
 pn the sumit ; but being since overturn 'd by the Barbarians, was re- 
 erected with vast cost and a most stupendious invention by Domenico 
 Fontana, architect to Sixtus V. The Obelisk consists of one intire 
 square stone without hieroglyphic, in height 72 foote, but compre- 
 hending the base and all 'tis 108 foote high. It rests on 4 lyons of 
 gilded copper. You may see through the base of the Obelisq and plinth 
 of the piedestal. Upon two faces of the Obelisq is engraven ; 
 
 DIVO CAES. DIVI 
 
 IVLII F. AVGVSTO 
 TI. CAES. DIVI AVG. 
 F. AVGVST. SACRVM. 
 
 It now beares on the top a crosse in which 'tis sayd that Sixtus V. 
 inclosed some of the holy wood ; and under it is to be read by good eyes : 
 
 SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI 
 
 SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX. 
 
 CONSECRAVIT. 
 
 E PRIORE SEDE AWLSVM 
 
 ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB. 
 
 I. L. ABLATVM M.D.LXXXVL 
 
 On the foure faces of the base below : 
 
 I. CHRISTVS VINCIT. 
 
 CHRISTVS REGNAT. 
 
 CHRISTVS IMPERAL. 
 
 CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO " 
 
 PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT. 
 
 2. SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX. 
 
 OBELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM ' ' 
 
 IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM 
 
 AD APOSTOLORVM DIIS ITMINA 
 
 OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT 
 
 AN. M.D.LXXXVL PONT. II. 
 
 ■ 3. ECCE CRVX DOMINI 
 
 FVGITE PARTES 
 
 ADVERSAE 
 
 VINCIT LEO 
 
 DE TRIBV IVDA. 
 
 4. SIXTVS V. PONT. Max. 
 
 CRVCI INVICTAE 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. lOI 
 
 OBELISCVM VATICANVM 
 AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE 
 
 EXPIATVM IVSTIVS 
 ET FELICIVS CONSECRAVIT 
 AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II. 
 
 A little lower : 
 
 DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGO MILIAGRI NOVO COMENSIS TRANSTVLIT 
 
 ET EREXIT. 
 
 It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have cost 37,975 
 crowns, the labor of 907 men and 75 horses ; it was the first of the 4 
 Egyptian Obelisks set up at Rome, and one of the 42 brougjit to the 
 Citty out of Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by the 
 Goths, Barbarians, and Earthquakes. See Platina in Vita Pontiff, p. 
 315. — Some coaches stood before the stepps of the ascent, whereof one 
 belonging to Card. Medici had all the metall worke of massy silver ; 
 viz. the bow behind and other places. The coaches at Rome, as well 
 as cover'd wagons which are also much in use, are generally the richest 
 and largest I ever saw. Before the faciata of the Church is an ample 
 pavement. The Church was first begun by St. Anacletus when rather 
 a Chapel, on a foundation as they give out of Constantine the Great, 
 who in honour of the Apostles carried 12 baskets full of sand to the 
 work. After him Julius II. tooke it in hand, to which all his successors 
 have contributed more or less. 
 
 The front is suppos'd to be the largest and best studied piece of 
 architecture in the world ; to this we went up by 4 stepps of marble. 
 The first entrance is supported by huge pilasters ; the volto within is 
 the richest in the world, overlayd with gold. Between the 5 large anti- 
 ports are columns of enormous height and compass, with as many 
 gates of brasse the worke and sculpture of PoUajuolo the Florentine, 
 full of cast figures and histories in a deepe relievo. Over this runs 
 a terrace of like amplitude and ornament, where the Pope at solemn 
 times bestowes his benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this 
 portico are two campaniles, or towers, whereof there was but one per- 
 fected, of admirable art. On the top of all runns a balustrade which 
 edges it quite round, and upon this at equal distances are Christ and 
 the 13 Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below shewing no 
 greater than the life. Entring the Church, admirable is the bredth of 
 the volto or roofe which is all carv'd with foliage and roses overlayd 
 with gold in nature of a deepe bass relievo, a P antiq. The nave, or 
 body, is in forme of a crosse, whereof the foote part is the longest ; and 
 at the intern odium of the transept rises the cupola, which being all of 
 stone and of prodigious height is more in compasse than that of the 
 Pantheon (which was the largest amongst the old Romans, and is yet 
 intiie) or any other in the world. The inside or concave is cover'd 
 with most exquisite Mosaiq representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by ^ 
 
I02 SIZE AND MAGNIFICENCE OF ST. PETERS, ROME. 
 
 Giuseppe d'Arpino, full of Starrs of gold ; the convex or outside expos'd 
 to the aire, is cover'd with lead with great ribbs of metall double guilt 
 (as are also the ten other lesser cupolas, for no fewer adorn this glori- 
 ous structure) which gives a great and admirable splendor in all parts 
 of the Citty. On the sum'it of this is fix'd a brasen globe gilt, capable 
 of receiving 35 persons. This 1 entered and engrav'd my name amongst 
 other travellers. Lastly is the crosse, the access to which is betweene 
 the leaden covering and the stone convex or arch-worke, a most truly 
 astonishing piece of art. On the battlements of the Church, also all 
 overlayd with lead and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, 
 so many are the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few 
 houses inhabited by men who dwell there, and have enough to do fo 
 looke after the vast reparations which continually employ them. 
 
 We descended into the body of the Church, which is full of collaterall 
 Chapells and large Oratories, most of them exceeding the size of ordi- 
 nary Churches ; but the principal are fowre incrusted with most precious 
 marbles and stones of various colours, adom'd with an infinity of statues, 
 pictures, stately altars, and innumerable reliques. The altar-piece of 
 St. Michael being of Mosaiq I could not passe without particular note, 
 as one of the best of that kind. The Chapel of Gregory XIII. where 
 he is buried, is most splendid. Under the cupola, and in the center of 
 the Church, stands the high altar, consecrated first by Clement VIII. 
 adorn'd by Paul V. and lately cover'd by Pope Urban VIII. with that 
 stupendous canopy of Corinthian brasse which heretofore was brought 
 from the Pantheon ; it consists of 4 wreath'd columns partly channel'd 
 and incircl'd with vines, on which hang little puti, birds and bees (the 
 amies of the Barbarini), sustaining a baldachino of the same mettal. 
 The 4 columns weigh an hundred and ten thousand pounds, all over 
 richly gilt ; this with the pedestalls, crowne, and statues about it, form 
 a thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond all that 
 man's industry has produced of the kind : it is the work of Bernini, a 
 Florentine sculptor, architect, painter, and poet, who, a little before my 
 coming to the Citty, gave a publiq Opera (for so they call shews ol 
 that kind) wherein he painted the scenes, cut the statues, invented the 
 engines, compos'd the musiq, writ the comedy, and built the theatre. 
 Opposite to either of these pillars, under those niches which with their 
 columns support the weighty cupola, are placed 4 exquisite statues of 
 Parian marble, to which are 4 altars ; that of St. Veronica made by 
 Fra. Mochi, has over it the Reliquary, where they shew'd us the mira- 
 culous Sudarium indued with the picture of our Saviour's face, with 
 this inscription : " Salvatoris imaginem Veronicas Sudario excepta ut 
 loci majestas decenter custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmo- 
 reum signum et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit." 
 
 Right against this is that of Longinus, of a Colossean magnitude, also 
 by Bernini, and over him the Conservatory of the iron lance inserted in 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 103 
 
 a most precious chrystal, with this epigraph : " Longini Lanceam quam 
 Innocentius VIII. a Basagete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus 
 VIII. statua apposita et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium 
 transtulit." 
 
 The third Chapel has over the altar the statue of our countrywoman 
 St. Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, the worke of Boggi, 
 an excellent sculptor ; and here is preserved a greate piece of the pre- 
 tended wood of the holy crosse, which she is said to have first detected 
 miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope 
 with this inscription : " Partem Crucis quam Helena Imperatrix fe 
 Calvario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. h Sissoriana 
 Basilica desumptam, additis ara et statua, hie in Vaticano collocavit." 
 
 The 4th hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica, 
 the statue of St. Andrew, the worke of Flamingo, admirable above all 
 the other ; above is preserv'd the head of that Apostle richly inchas'd. 
 It is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed 
 in a disadvantageous light by Bernini the chiefe architect, who found 
 himselfe outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this : 
 
 " St. Andres caput quod Pius II. ex Achaia in Vaticanum asportan- 
 dum curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hie ornamentis decoratum sacrisq' 
 statuae, ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit." 
 
 The Reliques shew'd and kept in this Church are without number, 
 as are also the precious vessels of gold, silver, and gems, with the vests 
 and services to be seene in the Sacristy, which they shew'd us. Under 
 the high altar is an ample grot inlaid with Pietra Com'essa, wherein 
 half of the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserv'd ; before hang 
 divers greate lamps of the richest plate burning continually. About 
 this and contiguous to the altar runns a balustrade in forme of a 
 theatre, of black marble. Towards the left as you goe out of the 
 Church by the portico, a little beneath the high altar is an old brasse 
 statue of St. Peter sitting, under the soles of whose feete many devout 
 persons rub their heads and touch their chaplets. This was formerly 
 cast from a statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another place stands a 
 columne grated about with yron, whereon they report that our Bl. 
 Saviour was often wont to leane as he preached in the Temple. In the 
 work of the reliquary under the cupola there are 8 wreathed columns 
 which were brought from the Temple of Solomon. In another Chapell 
 they shew'd us the chayre of St. Peter, or as they name it, the Apos- 
 tolical Throne ; but amongst all the Chapells the one most glorious 
 has for an altar-piece, a Madona bearing a dead Christ on her knees 
 in white marble, the work of M. Angelo. At the upper end of the 
 Cathedral are several stately monuments, especialy that of Urban VIII. 
 Round the cupola and in many other places in the Church are con- 
 fession-seates for all languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish, Italian, 
 French, English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, &c. as it is written 
 
104 CHURCH OF ST. JOHN DE LATERANA. SCALA SANCTA. 
 
 on their freezes in golden capitals, and there are still at confessions 
 some of all nations. Towards the lower end of the Church and on the 
 side of a vast pillar sustaining a weighty roofe, is the depositum and 
 statue of the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with basso-relievos about 
 it of white marble, the worke of Bernini. Here are also those of Sextu.s 
 IV. and Paulus III. &c. Amongst the exquisite pieces in this sump- 
 tuous fabriq is that of the Ship with St. Peter held up from sinking by 
 our Saviour ; the emblems about it are the Mosaiq of the famous 
 Giotto, who restor'd and made it perfect after it had been defaced by 
 the Barbarians. Nor is the pavement under the cupola to be passed 
 over without observation, which with the rest of the body and walls of 
 the whole Church, are all inlaid with the richest of Pietra Com'essa, in 
 the most splendid colours of polish'd marbles, achats, serpentine, por- 
 phyry, calcedone, &c. wholy incrusted to the very roofe. Coming out 
 by the portico at which we entred, we were shew'd the Porto Santo, 
 never opened but at the year of jubilee. This glorious foundation hath 
 belonging to it 30 Canons, 36 Beneficiates, 28 Clearks benefic'd, with 
 in'umerable Chaplaines, &c. a Cardinal being always Arch-Priest ; the 
 present Carainal was Franc. Barberini, who also stiled himselfe Pro- 
 tector of the English, to whom he was indeede very courteous. 
 
 20 Nov. I went to visite that ancient See and Cathedral of St. John 
 de Laterana, and the holy places thereabout. This is a Church of 
 extraordinary devotion, though for outward forme not comparable to 
 St. Peter's, being of Gotig ordonance. Before we went into the Cathe- 
 dral, the Baptisterie of St. John Baptist presented itselfe, being for- 
 merly part of the Create Constantine's Palace, and as it is sayd, his 
 chamber where by St. Silvester he was made a Christian ; it is octago- 
 nal, having before the entrance 8 faire pillars of rich porphyrie, each of 
 one intire piece, their capitalls of divers orders supporting lesser 
 columnes of white marble, and these supporting a noble cupola, the 
 moulding whereof is excellently wrought. Women are prohibited from il 
 entering this chamber, for the malice of Herodias who caus'd him to 11 
 loose his head. Here are deposited several sacred reliques of St. ' 
 James, Mary Magdalen, St. Matthew, &c. and two goodly pictures. 
 Another Chapel or Oratory neere it is called St. John the Evangelist, 
 well adorn'd with marbels and tables, especialy those of Cavalier 
 Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in fresco. We went hence into another 
 called St. Venantius, in which is a Tribunal all of Mosaiq in figures of 
 Popes ; here is also an altar of the Madona much visited, and divers 
 Sclavonish Saints, companions of Pope John IV. The portico of the 
 Church is built of materials brought from Pontius Pilate's house in 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 The next sight which attracted our attention was a wonderful con- 
 course of people at their devotions before a place call'd Scala Sancta, 
 to which is built a noble front. Entering the portico, we saw those 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 10$ 
 
 large marble stayres, 28 in number, which are never ascended but on 
 the knees, some lip-devotion being used on every step, on which you 
 may perceive divers red specks of blood under a grate which they 
 affirme to have been drops of our Bl. Saviour at the time he was so bar- 
 barously mis-us'd by Herod's souldiers, for these stayres are reported 
 to have been translated hither from his Palace in Jerusalem. At the 
 top of these stayres is a Chapell, whereat they enter, but we could not 
 be permitted, by gates of marble, being the same our Saviour passed 
 when he went out of Herod's house. This they name the Sanctum 
 Sancloruvi, and over it we read this epigraph . Non est in toto sanc- 
 tior orbe locus. Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ 
 paynted as they say by St. Luke to the life. Descending again, we 
 saw before the Church the Obelise, which is indeed most worthy of 
 admiration. It formerly lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected 
 here by Sixtus V. in 1587, being 112 foote in height without the base 
 or pedestal ; at the foote 9! one way and 8 the other. This pillar 
 was first brought from Thebes at the utmost confines of Egypt, to 
 Alexandria, from thence to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is 
 said by Ammianus Marcellinus to have, been dedicated to Ramises 
 King of Egypt. It was transferr'd to this City by Constantine the 
 Sonne of the Great, and is full of hieroglyphics, serpents, men, owles, 
 falcons, oxen, instruments, &c. containing (as Father Kercher the 
 Jesuit will shortly tell us in a book which he is ready to publish) all the 
 recondite and abstruse learning of that people. The vessel, gaily, or 
 iloate that brought it to Rome so many hundred leagues must needs 
 have been of wonderful bignesse and strange fabriq. The stone is 
 one and intire, and [having been thrown down] was erected by the 
 famous Dom. Fontana for that magnificent Pope Sixtus V. as the rest 
 were ; 'tis now cracked in many places, but solidly joyn'd. The 
 Obelisk is thus inscrib'd at the several faciatas : 
 
 Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini Augusti F. Obeliscum k 
 patre suo motum diuq ; Alexandriae jacentem trecentorum remigum 
 impositum navi mirandi vastitatis per mare Tiberimq ; magnis molibus 
 Romam convectum in Circo Max. ponendum S. P. Q. R. D. D. 
 
 On the second square : 
 
 Fl. Constantinus Max : Aug : Christianse fidei Vindex & Assertor 
 Obeliscum ab yEgyptio Rege impuro voto Soli dicatum sedibus avul- 
 sum suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam ut novam Romam ab se 
 tunc conditam eo decoraret monumento. 
 
 On the third : 
 
 Sixtus V. Pontifex Max : ObeUscum hunc specie eximia temporum 
 calamitate fractum, Circi Maximi ruinis humo limoq ; alt& demersum, 
 multa impensa extraxit, hunc in locum magno labore transtulit, 
 fcrmasq ; pristinae accurate vestitum, Cruci invictissim^ dicavit anno 
 M.D.LXXXVllI. Pont. IIII. 
 
Io6 ALTAR OF ST. PETER. PILLARS OF TITUS. 
 
 On the fourth : 
 
 Constantinus per Crucem Victor a Silvestro hic baptisatus Crucis 
 gloriam propagavit. 
 
 Leaving this wonderful monument (before which is a stately publiq 
 fountaine, with a statue of St. John in the middle of it) we visited his 
 Holyness's Palace, being a little up on the left hand, the designe of Fon- 
 tana architect to Sixtus V. ; this I take to be one of the best Palaces 
 in Rome ; but not staying, we entered the Church of St. John de 
 Lateran, which is properly the Cathedral of the Roman See, as I 
 learn'd by these verses engraven upon the architrave of the portico : 
 Dogmate Papali datur, et simul Imperiali 
 Quod sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiaru 
 Hinc Salvatoris coelestia regna datoris 
 Nomine sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt ; 
 Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto 
 Nostra quod hasc ffides tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes. 
 'Tis call'd Lateran from a noble family dwelling it seems here- 
 abouts, on Mons CkHus. The Church is Gotiq, and hath a stately 
 tribunal ; the paintings are of Pietro Pisano. It was the first Church 
 that was consecrated with the ceremonies now introduc'd ; and where 
 altars of stone supplied those of wood, heretofore in use an -made like 
 large chests for the easier removal in times of persecution, such an 
 altar is still the greate one here preserved, as being that on which (they 
 hold) St. Peter celebrated masse at Rome, for which reason none but 
 the Pope may now presume to make that use of it. The pavement is 
 of all sorts of precio; .s marbles, and so are the walles to a great height, 
 over which 'tis painted a fresca with the life and acts of Constantine 
 the Greate, by most excellent masters. The organs are rare, sup- 
 ported by 4 columns. The suffito is all richly gilded and full of pic- 
 tures. Opposite to the porte is an altar of exquisite architecture with 
 a tabernacle on it all of precious stones, the worke of Targoni ; on this 
 is a Ccena of plate, the invention of Curtius Vanni, of exceeding 
 value ; the tables hanging over it are of Giuseppe d'Arpino. About 
 this are 4 excellent columnes transported out of Asia by the Emperor 
 Titus, of brasse double gilt, about 12 foote in height ; the walls 
 betweene them are incrusted with marble and set with statues in 
 niches, the vacuum reported to be fiU'd with holy earth which St. 
 Helena sent from Jerusalem to her sonn Constantine, who set these 
 pillars where they now stand. At one side of this is an Oratory 
 full of rare paintings and monuments, especialy those of the great 
 Connestable Colonna. Out of this we came into the Sacristia, full 
 of good pictures of Albert and others. At the end of the Church is a 
 flat stone supported by 4 pillars which they affirme to have beene the 
 exact height of our Bl. Saviour, which they say never fitted any mortal 
 man that tried it, but he was either taller or shorter ; two columns 
 
/;/ 
 
 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. I07 
 
 of the vaile of the Temple which rent at his passion ; the stone on 
 which they threw lots for his seamelesse vesture, and the pillar on 
 which the cock crow'd after Peter's denial ; and, to omit no fine thing, 
 ' the just length of the Virgin Mary's foote as it seems her shoemaker 
 affirm'd. Here is a most sumptuous crosse beset with precious stones, 
 containing some of the very wood of the holy crosse itselfe ; with 
 many other things of this sort. Here are many most magnificent monu- ' 
 ments, especialy those of St. Helen of porphyrie ; Cardinal Farneze ; , 
 Martine the first of copper. The pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martine 
 v., Laurent. Valla. &c. are of Gaetano ; the Nunciata, designed by 
 M. Angelo ; aiid the greate Cntcifix of Semoneta. In a Chapel at 
 one end of the porch is a statue of Henry IV. of France in brasse, 
 standing in a darke hole, and so has don many yeares ; perhaps from 
 not believing him a thorough proselyte. The two famous OEcumenical 
 Councils were celebrated in this Church by Pope Simachus, Martin the 
 first, Stephen, &c. 
 
 Leaving this venerable Church (for in truth it has a certaine majesty 
 in it) we pass'd through a faire and large Hospital of good architecture, 
 having some inscriptions put up by Barberini, the late Pope's nephew. 
 We then went by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Gregory P. 
 began by M. Angelo, a St. Andrewe, and the Bath of St. Cecilia. In 
 this Church are some rare paintings, especialy that story on the wall of 
 Guido Rheni. — Thence to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the Friers are 
 reported to be greate chymists. The quire, roofe and paintings in the 
 Tribuna are excellent. — Descending the Mons Cselius we come against 
 the vestiges of the Palazzo Maggiore, heretofore the Golden House of 
 Nero ; now nothing but an heape of vast and confused ruines, to shew 
 what time and the vicissitude of human things dos change from the 
 most glorious and magnificent to the most deformed and confused. — ■ 
 We next went into St. Sebastian's Church, which has an handsome 
 front. We then pass'd by the place where Romulus and Remus were 
 taken up by Faustulus ; the Forum Romanum ; and so by the edge of 
 the Mons Palatinus, where we were shew'd the ruines of Pompey's 
 house, and the Church of St. Anacletus : and so into the Circus Maxi- (J^^ \'^^'*-% *• 
 mus, heretofore capable of containing an hundred and sixty thousand i? ^ . 
 
 spectators, but now all one entire heape of rubbish, part of it converted 
 into a garden of pot-herbs. We concluded this evening with hearino; 
 the rare voices and musiq at the Chiesa Nova. 
 
 21 Nov. I was carried to see a great virtuoso Cavaliero Pozzo, 
 who shew'd us a rare collection of all kind of antiquities, and a choice 
 library, over which are the effigies of most of our late men of polite 
 literature. He had a great collection of the antiq bassi-relievos about 
 Rome, which this curious man had caus'd to be design'd in several 
 folios ; many fine medails ; the stone which Pliny calls Enhydrus ; it ____—- 
 had plainly in it the quantity of halfe a spoonfull of water of a yellow 
 
I08 PROCESSION OF INNOCENT X. TO ST. JOHN THE LATERAN. 
 
 pebble colour, of the bigness of a walnut. A stone in a ring without 
 foiles, paler than an amethyst, which yet he affirm'd to be the true 
 carbuncle, and harder than a diamond ; 'twas set in a ring, without 
 foile or any thing at the bottom, so as it was transparent, of a greenish 
 yellow, more lustrous than a diamond. He had very pretty things 
 painted on crimson velvet, design'd in black, and shaded and 
 heighten'd wich white, set in frames ; also a number of choice designs 
 and drawings. 
 
 Hence we walked to the Suburra and Erariu Saiurni, where yet 
 remaine some mines and an inscription. From thence to St. Pietro in 
 Vinculi, one of the 7 Churches on the Esqueline, an old and much fre- 
 quented place of greate devotion for the relicks there, especially the 
 bodyes of the seaven Maccabean breathren which lye under the altar. 
 On the wall is a St, Sebastian of Mosaic, after the Greeke manner ; 
 but what I chiefly regarded was that noble sepulchre of Pope Julius II. 
 the worke of M. Angelo, with that never sufficiently to be admired 
 statue of Moses in white marble, and those of Viia Contemplativa and 
 Activa by the same incomparable hand. To this Church belongs a 
 Monastery, in the Court of whose Cloisters grow two tall and very 
 stately palme-trees. Behind these are the Bathes of Titus with pro- 
 digious receptacles for water, which the vulgar call the Setti Sali, now 
 all in heapes. 
 
 23 Nov. There was the solemne and greatest ceremony of all the 
 Ecclesiastical States, vis. the procession of the Pope (Innocent X.) to 
 St. John de Lateran. Standing on the stepps of Ara Cell, neere the 
 Capitol, I saw it passe in this manner : — First went a guard of 
 Swissers to make way, and divers of the avant guard of horse carrying 
 lances. Next follow'd those who carried the robes of the Cardinals, 
 two and two ; then the Cardinals Mace-bearers ; the Caudatari on 
 mules ; the Masters of their Horse ; the Pope's Barber, Taylor, Baker, 
 Gardner, and other domestic officers, all on horseback in rich liveries ; 
 the Squires belonging to the guard ; 5 men in rich liveries led 5 noble 
 Neapolitan horses white as snow cover'd to the ground with trappings 
 richly embroidered, which is a service paid by the King of Spaine for 
 the kingdomes of Naples and Sicily, pretended feudatorys to the Pope ; 
 
 3 mules of exquisite beauty and price, trapp'd in crimson velvet : 3 rich 
 litters with mules, the litters empty ; the Master of the Horse alone, 
 with his Squires ; 5 Trumpeters ; the Amerieri estra muros ; the Fis- 
 cale and Consistorial Advocates ; Capellani, Camerieri de honore, 
 Cubiculari and Chamberlaines, cali'd Secreti ; 4 other Camerieri with 
 
 4 capps of the dignity Pontifical, which were Cardinals' hatts carried 
 on staffs ; 4 Trumpets : after them a number of noble Romans and 
 gentlemen of quality very rich, follow'd by innumerable Staffieri and 
 Pages ; the Secretaries of the Chancellaria, Abbreviatori-Acoliti in 
 their long robes and on mules ; Auditor! di Rota ; the Deane of the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN 'EVELYN. loq 
 
 Roti and Master of the sacred Palace on mules, with grave but rich 
 foote clothes, and in flat episcopal hatts ; then went more of the Roman 
 and other Nobility and Courtiers, with divers Pages in most rich 
 liveries on horseback ; 14 Drums belonging to the Capitol ; the Mar- 
 shalls with their staves ; the 2 Sindics ; the Conservators of the Citty 
 in robes of crimson damask ; the Knight Confalonier and Prior of the 
 R. R. in velvet tocques ; 6 of his holynesses Mace-bearers ; then the 
 Captaine or Governor of the Castle of St. Angelo upon a brave prancer ; 
 the Governor of the Citty ; on both sides of these 2 long ranks of 
 Swissers ; the Masters of the Ceremonies ; the Crosse-bearer on horse- 
 back, with two Priests at each hand on foote ; Pages, Footmen, and 
 Guards inaboundance ; then came the Pope himselfe, carried in a litter 
 or rather open chaire of crimson velvet richly embrodred, and borne by 
 two stately mules ; as he went he held up two fingers, blessing the mul- 
 titude who were on their knees or looking out of their windows and 
 houses, with loud viva's and acclamations of felicity to their new Prince. 
 This was follow'd by the Master of his Chamber, Cupp-bearer, Secre- 
 tary, and Physitian ; then came the Cardinal Bishops, Cardinal Priests, 
 Cardinal Deacons, Patriarchs, Archbishops, and Bishops, all in their 
 several and distinct habits, some in red, others in greene flat hatts with 
 tassells, all on gallant mules richly trapp'd with velvet and lead by 
 their servants in great state and multitudes ; then came the Apostolical 
 Protonotari, Auditor, Treasurer, and Referendaries ; lastly, the Trum- 
 pets of the reare-guard, 2 Pages of Amies in helmets with feathers and 
 carrying launces ; 2 Captaines ; the Pontifical Standard of the Church • 
 the two Alfieri or Cornets of the Pope's Light Horse, who all follow'd 
 in armor and carrying launces ; which, with innumerable rich coaches, 
 litters, and people, made up the procession. What they did at St. Johi 
 di Laterano I could not see by reason of the prodigious crowd ; so 1 
 spent most of the day in viewing the two triumphal arches which had 
 been purposely erected a few days before, and till now covered ; the 
 one by the Duke of Parma in the Foro Romano, the other by the 
 Jewes in the Capitol, with flattering inscriptions. They were of excel- 
 lent architecture, decorated with statues and aboundance of ornaments 
 proper for the occasion, since they were but temporary, and made up of 
 boards, cloath, &c. painted and fram'd on the suddaine, but as to out- 
 ward appearance solid and very stately. The night ended with fire- 
 workes. That which I saw was that which was built before the Spanish 
 Ambassadors house in the Piazza del Trinita, and another of the 
 French. The first appeared to be a mighty rock, bearing the Pope's 
 armes, a dragon, and divers figures, which being set on fire by one 
 who flung a roquet at it, tooke fire immediately, yet preserving the 
 figure both of the rock and statues a very long time, insomuch as'it 
 was deemed ten thousand reports of squibbs and crackers spent them- 
 selves in order. That before the French Ambassadors Palace was 
 
no THE JESUITS'C OLLEGE. LIBRARY. ALDOBRANDINI PALACE. 
 
 a Diana drawne in a chariot by her doggs, with aboundance of other 
 figures as large as the life, which plaied with fire in the same manner. 
 In the meane time the windows of the whole Citty were set with tapers 
 \put into lanterns or sconces of several colour'd oyl'd paper, that the 
 wind might not annoy them ; this render'd a most glorious shew. Be- 
 sides these there were at least 20 other fire-workes of vast charge and 
 rare art for their invention before diverse Ambassadors, Princes and Car- 
 dinals Palaces, especialy that on the Castle of St. Angelo, being a pyra- 
 mid of lights, of greate height, fastned to the ropes and cables which 
 support the standard -pole. The streetes were this night as light as day, 
 full of bonfires, canon roaring, musiq playing, fountaines running 
 wine, in all excesse of joy and triumph. 
 
 24 Nov. I went to the Jesuites CoUedge againe, the front whereoff 
 gives place to a few for its architecture, most of its ornaments being of 
 rich marble. It has within a noble Portico and Court, sustain'd by 
 stately columnes, as is the Corridor over the Portico, at the sides of 
 which are the Scholes for the Arts and Sciences, which are here taught 
 as at the University. Here I heard Father Athanasius Kercher upon 
 a part of Euclid, which he expounded. To this joynes a glorious and 
 ample Church for the Students ; a second is not fully finish'd ; and 
 there are two noble Libraries where I was shew'd that famous wit and 
 historian Famianus Strada. Hence we went to the house of Hippolito 
 Vitellesco (afterwards Bibliothecary of the Vatican Library) who 
 shew'd us one of the best collections of Statues in Rome, to which he 
 frequently talkes as if they were living, pronouncing now and then 
 orations, sentences, and verses, sometimes kissing and embracing them. 
 He has an head of Brutus scarr'd in the face by order of the Senate 
 for killing Julius ; this is much esteem'd. Also a Minerva and others 
 of greate value. This gentleman not long since purchased land in the 
 kingdome of Naples, in hope by digging the ground to find more 
 statues ; which it seemes so far succeeded as to be much more worth 
 than the purchase. We spent the evening at the Chiesa Nova, where 
 was excellent musiq ; but before that began the courteous Fathers led 
 me into a nobly-furnish'd Library contiguous to their most beautiful! 
 Convent. 
 
 28. I went to see the garden and house of the Aldobrandini, now- 
 Cardinal Borghese's. This palace is, for architecture, magnificence, 
 pompe and state, one of the most considerable about the Citty. It has 
 4 fronts, and a noble Piazza before it. Within the court, under arches 
 supported by marble columns, are many excellent statues. Ascending 
 the stayres there is a rare figure of Diana of white marble. The St. 
 Sebastian and Hermaphrodite are of stupendious art. For paintings, 
 ' 02ir Saviour's head by Corregio ; several pieces of Raphael, some of 
 which are small ; some of Bassano Veroneze ; the Leda, and two admir- 
 able Veniis's, are of Titian's pensill; so is the Psyche and Cupid; the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. Ill 
 
 head of St. John borne by Herodiasj two heads of Albert Durer, very 
 exquisite. We were shewn here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence- 
 worke in stone. In the garden are many fine fountaines, the walls 
 cover'd with citron-trees, which being rarely spread invest the stone 
 worke intirely ; and towards the streete, at a back gate, the Port is so 
 handsomely cloath'd with ivy as much pleas'd me. About this Palace 
 are many noble antiq bassi relievi, two especialy are placed on the 
 ground, representing armor and other military furniture of the Romans ; 
 beside these stand about the garden numerous rare statues, altars, and 
 urnes. Above all, for antiquity and curiosity (as being the onely rarity 
 of that nature now knowne to remaine) is that piece of old Roman 
 paynting representing the Roman Sponsalia, or celebration of their 
 marriage, judged to be 1400 yeares old, yet are the colours very lively 
 and the designe very intire, tho' found deepe in the ground. For this 
 morcell of painting's sake onely 'tis sayd that Borghesi purchased the 
 house, because this being on a wall in a kind of banqueting house in the 
 garden could not be removed, but passe with the inheritance. 
 
 29 Nov. I a second time visited the Medicean Palace, being neere 
 my lodging, the more exactly to have a view of the noble collections that 
 adorne it, especialy the bass relievi and antiq frezes inserted about the 
 stone worke of the house. The Saturne of mettal standing in the 
 portico is a rare piece ; so is the Jupiter and Apollo in the hall. We 
 were now led into those roomes above we could not see before, full of 
 incomparable statues and antiquities ; above all, and happly preferable 
 to any in the world, are the two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mixture 
 with each others armes and legges is stupendious. In the greate 
 chamber is the Gladiator whetting a knife ; but the Venus is without 
 parallel, being the master-piece of whose name you see graven under it 
 in old Greeke characters ; nothing in sculpture ever approached this 
 miracle of art. To this add Marcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing 
 on a pipe ; some reUeui incrusted on the palace walls ; and an antiq vasa 
 of marble neare 6 foote high. Among the pictures may be mentioned 
 the Magdalen and St. Peter weeping. I passe over the cabinets and 
 tables of Pietra Com'essa, being the proper invention of the Floren- 
 tines. In one of the chambers is a whimsical chayre, which folded 
 into so many varieties as to turn into a bed, a bolster, a table, or 
 a couch. I had another walk in the garden, where are two huge vasa's 
 or bathes of stone. 
 
 I went farther up the hill to the Pope's Palace at Monte Cavallo, 
 where I now saw the garden more exactly, and found it to be one of 
 the most magnificent and pleasant in Rome. I am told the gardener is 
 annualy alowed 2000 scudi for the keeping it. Here I observ'd hedges 
 of myrtle above a man's height ; others of laurell, oranges, nay of ivy 
 and juniper ; the close walks, and rustic grotto ; a crypta, ol which the 
 laver or ba-sin is of one vast, intire, antiq porphyrie, and below this flows 
 
112 PALAZZO DI GHISI. RELICS IN ROME. CHRISTMAS. 
 
 a plentiful! cascade ; the steppes of the grotto and the roofs being of rich 
 Mosaiq. Here are hydraulic organs, and a fish-pond in an ample bath. 
 From hence we went to taste some rare Greco, and so home. 
 
 Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept within, for the 
 most part, till the 6 Dec, and during this time I entertaind one Sign. 
 Alessandro, who gave me some lessons on the theorba. 
 
 The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry- 
 boate, to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, fairely built, 
 but famous onely for the painting a fresca on the volto of the portico 
 towards the garden ; the story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by 
 the hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbin. Here you always see 
 Painters designing and copying after it, it being esteemed one of the 
 rarest pieces of that art in the world, and with greate reason. I must 
 not omit that incomparable table of Galatea (as I remember), so care- 
 fully preserved in the cupboard at one of the ends of this walke, to pro- 
 tect it from the aire, being a most lively painting. There are likewise 
 excellent things of Baldassare and others. 
 
 Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of Bracciano, fairely 
 built, with a stately court and fountaine. — Next we walked to St. Mary's 
 Church, where was the Taberna Meritoria, where the old Roman sol- 
 diers received their triumphal garland, which they ever after wore. 
 The high altar is very faire, adorn'd with columns of porphyrie ; here 
 is also some mosaic worke about the quire, and the Assumption is an 
 esteem'd piece. It is sayd that this Church was the first that was dedi- 
 cated to the Virgin at Rome. In the opposite Piazza is a very sump- 
 tuous fountaine. 
 
 12. I went againe to St. Peter's, to see the Chapells, Churches, and 
 Grotts under the whole Church (like our St. Faith's under Paules,) in 
 which lie interr'd a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes ; amongst 
 them our countryman Hadrian IV. in a chest of porphyrie ; St. ]q: 
 Chrysostom ; Petronella ; the heads of St. James Minor, St. Luke, SL 
 Sebastian, and our Thomas "k Becket, a shoulder of St. Christopher; 
 anarmeof Joseph of Arimathea ; Longinus ; besides 134 more Bishops, 
 Souldiers, Princes, Scholars, Cardinals, Kings, Emperors, their wives 
 too long to particularize. 
 
 Hence we walked into the Cemitery cal'd Campo Santo, the earth 
 consisting of severall ship loads of mould transported from Jerusalem, 
 which consumes a carcasse in 24 houres. To this joynes that rare Hos- 
 pital, where once was Nero's Circus ; and next to this is the Inquisition 
 house and prison, the inside thereof, I thanke God, I was not curious 
 to see. To this joins his Holinesse's Horse-guards. 
 
 On Christmas Eve I went not to bed, being desirous of seeing the 
 many extraordinary ceremonies performed then in their Churches, ar. 
 midnight masses and sermons. I went from Church to Church the 
 \vhole night in admiration at the multitude of sceanes and pageantry 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. II3 
 
 which the Friers had with much industry and craft set out, to catch the 
 devout women and superstitious sort of people, who never parted with- 
 out dropping some money into a vessell set on purpose ; but especialy 
 observable was the pupetry in the Church of the Minerva, representing 
 the Nativity. I thence went and heard a sermon at the Apollinare, by 
 which time it was morning. On Christmas Day his Holinesse saing 
 Masse, the artillerie at St. Angelo went off, and all this day was expos'd 
 the cradle of our Lord. 
 
 29. We were invited by the English Jesuites to dinner, being their 
 greate feast of Thomas [k Becket] of Canterbury. We dined in their 
 common Refectory, and afterwards saw an Italian Comedy acted by 
 their alumni before the Cardinals. 
 
 1645. Jan. We saw passe the new officers of the people of Rome ; 
 especialy for their noble habits were most conspicuous the 3 Consuls, 
 now call'd Conservators, who take their places in the Capitol, having 
 been sworne the day before, betwene the hands of the Pope. We ended 
 the day with the rare musiq at the Chiesa Nova. 
 
 6 Jan. Was the ceremony of our Saviour's Baptisme in the Church 
 of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Cell was a greate procession, del Bam- 
 bino as they call it, where were all the Magistrates, and a wonderfull 
 concourse of people. 
 
 7. A Sermon was preach'd to the Jewes at Ponte Sisto, who are con- 
 strained to sit till the houre is don ; but it is with so much malice in 
 their countenances, spitting, hum'ing, coughing, and motion, that it is ; 
 almost impossible they should heare a word from the preacher. A con- ' 
 version is very rare. 
 
 14. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are expos'd at St. John de 
 Laterano. 
 
 1 5. The Zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have portions given 
 them by the Pope, being poore, and to marry them, walked in proces- 
 sion to St. Peter's, where the Veronica was shew'd. 
 
 I went to the Ghetto, where the Jewes dwell as in a suburbe by them- 
 selues ; being invited by a Jew of my acquaintance to see a circumci- 
 sion. I passed by the Piazza Judea, where their Seraglio begins ; for 
 being inviron'd with walls, they are lock'd up every'~nijht. In this 
 place remaines yet part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told me had 
 been a palace of theirs for the ambassador of their nation when their 
 country was subject to the Romans. Being led through the Synagogue 
 into a privat house, I found a world of people in a chamber : by and 
 by came an old man, who prepared and layd in order divers instru- 
 ments brought by a little child of about 7 yeares old in a box. These 
 the man lay'd in a silver bason ; the knife was much like a short razor 
 to shut into the haft. Then they burnt some incense in a censer, which 
 perfum'd the rome all the while the ceremony was performing. In the 
 basin was a little cap made of white paper like a capuchins hood, not 
 
 8 
 
1 14 CIRCUMCISION OF A JEW. MAGNIFICENCE OF THE VATICAN. 
 
 bigger than the finger ; also a paper of a red astringent powder, I sup- 
 pose of bole ; a small instrument of silver, cleft in the middle at one 
 end to take up the prepuce withall ; a fine linen cloth wrapped up. 
 These being all in order, the women brought the infant, swaddl'd, out 
 of another chamber, and delivered it to the Rabbie, who carried and 
 presented it before an altar or cupbord dress'd up, on which lay the 
 5 Bookes of Moses, and the Commandments a little unrowled ; before 
 this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words, he waved the 
 child to and fro awhile ; then he deliver'd it to another Rabbie, who 
 sate all this time upon a table. Whilst the ceremony was performing, 
 all the company fell a singing an Hebrew hymn in a barbarous tone, 
 waving themselves to and fro, a ceremony they observe in all their de- 
 votions, — The Jewes in Rome all wear yellow hatts, live onely upon 
 brokage and usury, very poore and despicable beyond what they are in 
 other territories of Princes where they are permitted. 
 
 18 Jan. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican, where he for 
 the most part keeps his Court. It was first built by Pope Simachus, 
 and since augmented to a vast pile of building by his successors. That 
 part of it added by Sixtus V. is most magnificent. This leads u.s into 
 divers tarraces arched sub dio, painted by Raphael with the Historys of 
 the Bible, so esteem'd that artists come from all parts of Europe to 
 make their studies from these designes. The foliage and grotesq about 
 some of the compartments are admirable.' In another rome are repre- 
 sented at large mapps and plotts of most countries in the world, in vast 
 tables, with briefe descriptions. The stayres which ascend out of St. 
 P'Jter's portico into the first hall, are rarely contriv'd for ease ; these 
 leade into the hall of Gregory XIII. the walls whereof, halfe way to the 
 roofe, are incrusted with most precious marbles of various colours and 
 workes. So is also the pavement inlaid worke ; but what exceeds de- 
 scription is the volta or rooff itselfe, which is so exquisitely painted, that 
 'tis almost impossible for the skilfuUest eye to discerne whether it be 
 the worke of the pensil upon a flatt, or of a toole cutt deepe in stone. 
 The Rotadeiitaia in this admirable perspective, on the left hand as one 
 goes out, the Stella, &c. are things of art incomparable. Certainly this 
 is one of the most superb and royall appartements in the world, much 
 too beautifuU for a guard of gigantic Swissers, who do nothing but 
 drinke and play at cards in it. Going up these stayres is a paynting 
 of St. Peter walking on the sea towards our Saviour. 
 
 Out of this I went into another hall, just before the chapell called 
 the Sala del Conclave, full of admirable paintings ; amongst others is 
 the Assassination of Colignij, the greate [Protestant] French Admiral, 
 murder'd by the D. of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials 
 of Hen. IV. with Queen Margarite ; under it is written, " Coligni 
 fit sociorum caedes :" on the other side, " Rex Coligni necem probat." 
 
 1 Painted by John of Udine, scholar of Raphael, from the designs of Raphael. Painter 
 Voyage of Italy, p. ij. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. II5 
 
 There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed, 
 
 " Alexander Papa III. Fredrici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum 
 fugiens abdidit es Venetijs ; cognitum et a senatu perhonorificfe sus- 
 ceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali praslio victo captoq ; Frederi 
 cus pace facta supplex adorat ; fidem et obedientiam poUicitus. Ita 
 Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Rep. beneficio restituta mclxxviii." ' 
 
 This inscription I the rather took notice of, because Urban VIII. 
 had caused it to be blotted out during the difference betweene him and 
 that State ; but it was now restor'd and refresh'd by his successor, to 
 the greate honor of the Venetians. The Battaile of Lepanto is another 
 faire piece here. 
 
 Now we came into the Pope's Chapell, so much celebrated for the 
 Last Judgment, painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti. It is a painting in 
 fresca upon a dead wall at the upper end of the Chapell, just over th? 
 high altar, of a vast designe and miraculous fancy, considering the 
 multitude of naked figures and variety of posture. The roofe also is 
 full of rare worke. — Hence we went into the Sacristia, where we were 
 show'd all the most precious vestments, copes, and furniture of the 
 Chapell. One priestly cope, with the whole suite, had been sent from 
 one of our English Henrys, and is shewn for a greate rarity. There 
 were divers of the Pope's pantofles that are kissed on his foote, having 
 rich Jewells embrodred on the instep, cover'd with crimson velvet ; also 
 his tyara, or triple crown, divers miters, crosiers, &c. all bestudded with 
 precious stones, gold, and pearle, to a very great value ; a very large 
 Crosse, carved (as they affirme) out of the holy wood it selfe; also 
 numerous utensils of chrystal, gold, achat, amber, and other costly 
 materials for the altar. 
 
 We then went into those chambers painted with the Historys of the 
 burning of Rome, quenched by the procession of a Crucifix j the Victory 
 of Constantine over Maxeniiusj St. Peter's delivery otit of Prison; 
 all by Julio Romano,^ and are therefore cal'd the Paynters' Academy, 
 because you always find some young men or other designing from them ; 
 a civility which is not refused in Italy where any rare pieces of the old 
 and best masters are extant, and which is the occasion of breeding up 
 many excellent men in that profession. 
 
 The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin Alberti, with 
 an ample landskip of Paul Brill's. 
 
 We were then conducted into a new Gallery, whose sides were 
 painted with views of the most famous places, towns, and territories in 
 Italy, rarely don, and upon the roofe the chiefe acts of the Ronjan 
 
 1 Pope Alexander III. flying from the wrath and attack of the Emperor Frederick I. took 
 shelter at Venice, where he was acknowledged, and most honourably received by the Senate. 
 The Emperor's son Otho being conquered and taken in a naval battle, the Emperor, having 
 made peace, became a suppliant to the Pope, promising faith and obedience. Thus his dig- 
 nity was restored to the Pontiff by the aid of the Republic of Venice, mclxxvui- 
 
 2 A famous scholar of Raphael, 
 
Il6 THE LIBRARY OF THE VATICAN, AND ITS LITERARY TREASURES 
 
 Church since St. Peter's pretended See there. It is doubtlesse one of 
 the most magnificent galleries in Europ. — Out of this we came into the 
 Consistory, a noble roome, the volte painted in grotesq, as I remember. 
 At the upper end is an elevated throne, and a baldachino or canopy of 
 state, for his HoUnesse, over it. 
 
 From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I think, then the 
 French king's at the Louvre), but onely of bare walls, we were brought 
 into the Vatican Library. This passage was now full of poore people, 
 to each of whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a mezzo 
 grosse. I believe there were in number neer 1500 or 2000 persons. 
 
 This Library is the most nobly built, furnish'd, and beautified of any 
 in the world; ample, stately, Ught, and cherefull, looking into a most 
 pleasant garden. The walls and roofe are painted, not with antiques 
 and grotescs, like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, dia- 
 grams, and the like learned inventions, found out by the wit and 
 industry of famous men, of which there are now whole volumes extant 
 There were likewise the effigies of the most illustrious men of letters 
 and fathers of the Church, with divers noble statues in white marble 
 at the entrance, viz. Hippolitus and Aristides. The Generall Councils 
 are painted on the side walls. As to the ranging of the bookej, they 
 are all shut up in presses of wainscot, and not expos'd on shelves to the 
 open ayre, nor are the most precious mix'd amongst the more ordinary, 
 which are show'd to the curious onely ; such as are those two Virgils 
 written in parchment, of more then a thousand yeares old ; the hke a 
 Terence ; the Acts of the Apostles in golden capital letters ; Petrarch's 
 Epigrams, written with his owne hand ; also an Hebrew parchment 
 made up in the ancient manner, from whence they were first call'd 
 Volumina, with the Cornua ; but what we English do much enquire 
 after, the booke which our Hen. VIII. writ against Luther.' 
 
 The longest roome is 100 paces long ; at the end is the gallery of 
 printed books : then the gallery of the D. of Urbans librarie, in which 
 are MSS. of remarkable miniature, and divers China, Mexican, Sama- 
 ritan, Abyssin, and other Oriental books. 
 
 In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all the bookes 
 taken from Heidelburg, of which the learned Gruter and other greate 
 scholars had been keepers. These walls and volto are painted with 
 representations of the machines invented by Domenico Fontana for 
 erection of the obelisqs ; and the true designe of Mahomet's sepulchre 
 at Mecca. 
 
 Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during a vacancy, 
 
 1 This very book, by one of those curiou,'! chances that occasionally happen, has recently 
 been brought to England, where the Editor has seen it : and what is very remarkable, wher- 
 ever the title of Defender of the Faith is subjoined to the name of Henry, the Pope has drawn 
 hii pen^ through the epithet. The name of the King occurs in his own hand-writing both at 
 the beginning and end ; and on the binding are the royal arms. The present possessor pur- 
 chased it in Italy for a few shillings from an old book-stall. 
 
IHE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 117 
 
 the Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed upon a new election, the 
 whole manner whereof was describ'd to us. 
 
 Hence we went into the Pope's Armory under the Library. Over the 
 dore is this inscription : " Urbanus VI II. Litteris Arma, Arma Litteris." 
 I hardly believe any Prince inEuropis able to shew a more compleately 
 furnish'd Library of Mars for the quality and quantity, which is 40,000 
 compleate for horse and foote, and most neately kept. Out of this we 
 pass'd againe by the long Gallery and at the lower end of it downe a 
 very large payr of stayres, round, without any stepps as usualy, but 
 descending with an evenesse so ample and easy that a horse litter or 
 coach may with ease be drawne up ; the sides of the vacuity are set 
 with columns ; those at Amboise on the Loire in France are something 
 of this invention, but nothing so spruce. By these we descended into 
 the Vatican Gardens cal'd Belvedere, where entring first into a kind of 
 Court we were shew'd those incomparable statues (so fam'd by Pliny 
 and others) of Laocoon with his three sonns embrac'd by an huge ser- 
 pent, all of one entire Parian stone very white and perfect, somewhat 
 bigger then the life, the worke of those three celebrated sculptors, Age- 
 sandrus, Polidorus, and Artemidorus, Rhodians ; it was found amongst 
 the ruines of Titus's Baths, and placed here. Pliny says this statue is ; 
 to be esteem'd before all pictures and statues in the world ; and I am ! 
 of his opinion, for I never beheld anything of art approach it. Here i 
 are also those two famous images of Nylus with the Children playing ; 
 about him, and that of Tyber ; Romulus and Rhemus with the Wolfe ; 
 the dying Cleopatra ; the Venus and Cupid, rare pieces ; the Mercury ; 
 Cybel ; Hercules ; Apollo ; Antinous : most of which are, for defence 
 against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot dores. We were 
 likewise shew'd the reliques of the Hadrian Moles, viz. the Pine, a vast 
 piece of mettall which stood on the summit of that mausoleum ; also a 
 Peacock of coper, supposed to be part of Scipio's monument. 
 
 In the Garden without this (which containes a vast circuit of ground) 
 are many stately fountaines, especialy two casting water into antiq 
 lavors brought froin Titus's Bathes ; some faire grotts and water works, 
 that noble cascade where the ship daunces, with divers other pleasant 
 inventions, walkes, terraces, meanders, fruite-trees, and a most goodly 
 prospect over the greatest part of the Citty. One fountaine under the 
 gate I must not omitt, consisting of three jettos of water gushing out of 
 the mouthes or proboscis of bees (the armes of the late Pope), because 
 of the inscription : — 
 
 Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit .' 
 Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam. 
 
 23. We went without the walls of the Citty to visite St. Paules, to 
 which place 'tis sayd the Apostle bore his owne head after Nero had 
 caus'd it to be cut off. The Church was founded by the Create Con- 
 stantine ; the maine roofe is supported by 100 vast columns of marble, 
 
Il8 ST. PAULES ; TRIA FONTANA ; PALAZZO FARNESE. 
 
 and the Mosaiq work of the greate arch is wrought with a very ancient 
 story Anno 440 ; asis likewise that of the faciata. The gates are brasse 
 made at Constantinople in 1070, as you may reade by those Greeke 
 verses engraven on them. The Church is neere 50ofoote long and 258 
 in breadth, and has 5 great iles joyn'd to it, on the bases of one of 
 whose columns is this odd title : " Fl. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Prasf. 
 Urbis V.S.I, reparavit." Here they shew'd us that miraculous Crucifix 
 which they say spake to St. Brigit : and just before the Ciborio stand 
 two excellent statues. Here are buried part of the bodys of St. Paula 
 and St. Peter. The pavement is richly interwoven with precious orien- 
 tal marbles about the high altar, where are also 4 excellent payntings, 
 whereof one, representing the stoning of St. Stephen, is by the hand of 
 a Bolognian lady named Lavinia. The tabernacle on this altar is of 
 excellent architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento 
 are of Lanfranchi. Diuers other reliques there be also in this venerable 
 Church, as a part of St. Anna ; the head of the Woman of Samaria ; 
 the chayne which bound St. Paule, and the Eculeus us'd in tormenting 
 the primitive Christians. The Church stands in the Via Ostensis about 
 a mile from the walks of the Citty, separated from any buildings neere 
 it except the Tria Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we walked, 
 going over the mountaine or little rising upon which story says an hun- 
 dred seaventy and 4 thousand Christians had been martyr'd by Maxi- 
 mianus, Dioclesian, and other blody Tyrants. On this stand St. Vin- 
 cent's and Anastasius ; likewise the Church of St. Maria Scala del 
 Cielo, in whose Tribuna is a very faire Mosaiq worke. The Church of 
 the Tre Fontane (as they are call'd) is perfectly well built tho' but 
 small (whereas that of St. Paule is but Gotiq) having a noble cupola in 
 the middle ; in this they shew the pillar to which St. Paule was bound 
 when his head was cut off, and from whence it made three prodigious 
 leaps, where im'ediately broke out the 3 remaining fountaines which 
 give denomination to this Church. The waters are reported to be me- 
 dicinal ; over each is erected an altar and a chayned ladle for better 
 tasting of the waters. That most excellent picture of St. Peter's cruci- 
 fixion is of Guido. 
 
 25. I went againe to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some certaine sta- 
 tues and antiquities which by reason of the Major Domo not being within 
 I could not formerly obtaine. In the hall stands that triumphant Colosse 
 of one of the family, upon 3 figures, a modern, but rare piece. About it 
 stood some Gladiators ; and at the entrance into one of the first chambers 
 are two cumbent figures of Age and Youth brought hither from St. 
 Peter's to make roomeforthe Longinus under the cupola. Here was the 
 statue of a ram running at a man on horseback, a most incomparable ex- 
 pression of Fury cut in stone ; and a table of Pietra Com'esse very curious. 
 The next chamber was all painted afresca by a rare hand, as was the 
 carving in wood of the cieling which as I remember was in cedar as the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. II9 
 
 Italian mode is, and not poore plaster as ours are ; some of them most 
 richly gilt. In a third rome stood the famous Venus, and the child 
 Hercules strangling a serpent of Corinthian brass antiq, on a Very 
 curious bass-rehevo; the sacrifice to Priapus; the Egyptian Isis in the 
 hard black ophit stone taken out of the Pantheon, greately celebrated by 
 the Antiquaries ; likewise two tables of brasse containing divers old 
 Roman laws. At another side of this chamber was the statue of a 
 wounded Amazon falling from her horse, worthy the name of the ex- 
 cellent sculptor, whoever the artist was. Neere this was a bass relievo 
 of a Bacchanalia with a most curious Silenus. The 4th room was totally 
 inviron'd with statues ; especialy observable was that so renowned piece 
 of a Venus looking backward over her shoulder, and divers other naked 
 figures by the old Greeke masters. Over the doores are two Vetius's, 
 one of them looking on her face in a glasse by M. Angelo, the other 
 is painted by Caracci. I never saw finer faces, especialy that under the 
 masque whose beauty and art are not to be describ'd by words. The 
 next chamber is also full of statues most of them heads of Philoso- 
 phers, very antiq. One of the Cassars and another of Hannibal cost 
 1200 crownes. Now 1 had a second view of that never to be sufficiently 
 admired gallery painted in deepe relievo, the worke of lo years study 
 for a trifling reward. In the wardrobe above they shew'd us fine 
 wrought plate, porcelan, mazers of beaten and solid gold set with dia- 
 monds, rubies, and emeralds ; a treasure, especialy the worlananship 
 consider'd, of inestimable value. This is all the Duke of Parma's. 
 Nothing seem'd to be more curious and rare in its kind then the 
 compleate service of the purest chrystal for the altar of the Chapell, the 
 very bell, cover of a book, sprinkler, &c. were all of the rock, incom- 
 parably sculptur'd with the holy story in deepe Levati ; thus was also 
 wrought the crucifix, chalice, vases, flower-pots, the largest and purest 
 chrystall that my eyes ever beheld. Truely I looked on this as one of 
 the greatest curiosities I had seene in Rome. In another part were 
 presses furnish'd with antiq armes, German clocks, perpetual motions, 
 watches, and curiosities of Indian workes. A very ancient picture of 
 Pope Eugenius ; a St. Bernard, and a head of marble found long since, 
 supposed to be a true portrait of our B ; Saviour's face. 
 
 Hence we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and countryman of 
 ours, who had some intendency in an Hospital built on the Via Tri- 
 umphalis, called Christ's Hospital, which he shew'd us. The Infirmitory 
 where the sick lay was paved with various colour'd marbles, and the 
 walls hung with noble pieces ; the beds are very faire ; in the middle is 
 a stately cupola, under which is an altar decked with divers marble 
 statues, all in sight of the sick, who may both see and heare masse as 
 they lye in their beds. The organs are very fine, and frequently play'd 
 on to recreate the people in paine. To this joyns an apartiment des- 
 tined for the orphans ; and there is a schoole ; the childrer weare 
 
I20 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, OR INFIRMARY. AQUEDUCT OF AUGUSTUS. 
 
 blew like ours in London at an Hospital of the same appellation. Here 
 are 40 nurses who give suck to such children as are accidental/ found 
 expos'd and abandon'd. In another quarter are children of bigger 
 growth, 450 in number, who are taught letters. In another, 500 girles 
 under the tuition of divers religious matrons, in a Monastry, as it were, 
 by itselfe. I was assur'd there were at least 2000 more maintain'd in 
 other places. I think one appartiment had in it neere 1000 beds ; 
 these are in a very long rome having an inner passage for those who 
 attend, with as much care, sweetenesse, and conveniency as can be 
 imagin'd, the Italians being generaly very neate. Under the portico 
 the sick may walke out and take the ayre. Opposite to this are other 
 chambers for such as are sick of maladies of a more rare and difficult 
 cure, and they have romes apart. At the end of the long corridore is an 
 apothecary's shop, fair and very well stor'd ; neere which are chambers 
 for persons of better quality who are yet necessitous. Whatever the 
 poore bring is at their coming in deliver'd to a treasurer, who makes an 
 inventory and is accoumptable to them, or their representatives if they 
 dye. To this building joynes the house of the com'endator, who with 
 his officers attending the sick make up 90 persons ; besides a convent 
 and an ample church for the friers and priests who daily attend. The 
 church is extreamely neate, and the sacristia very rich. Indeede 'tis 
 altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations I ever saw : 
 nor is the benefit small which divers young physitians and chirurgeons 
 reape by the experience they learne here amongst the sick, to whom 
 those students have free accesse. Hence we ascended a very steepe 
 hill neere the Port St. Pancratio to that stately fountaine call'd Acqua 
 Paula, being the aquaeduct which Augustus had brought to Rome, now 
 re-edified by Paulus V. ; a rare piece of architecture, and which serves 
 the City after a journey of 35 miles, here pouring itselfe into divers 
 ample lavors, out of the mouthes of swans and dragons, the armes of 
 this Pope. Situate on a very high mount, it makes a most glorious 
 shew to the Citty, especialy when the sun darts on the waters as it 
 gusheth out. The inscriptions on it are : 
 
 Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. Aquaeductus ab Augusta 
 Caesare extructos, asvi longinqua vetustate coUapsos, in ampliorem for- 
 mam restituit anno salutis M.D. CIX. Pont V, 
 
 And towards the feilds, 
 
 Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi 
 
 temporis injuria penfe diruto, sublimiorem 
 
 lOne or more leaves are here wanting in Mr. Evelyiis MS. descriptive 
 of other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the City.} 
 
 Thence to Veletri, a towne heretofore of the Volsci, where is a pub- 
 liq and faire statue of P. Urban VIII. in brasse, and a stately fountaine 
 in the streete. Here we lay, and drank excellent wine. 
 
 Jan : 28. We dined at Sermoneta, descending all this morning 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELVN. 121 
 
 downe a stony mounUine, unpleasant, yet full of olive-trees ; and anon 
 passe a towre built on a rock, kept by a small guard against the Ban- 
 ditti who infest these parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my 
 Lord Banbury and his company found to their cost a little before. To 
 this guard we gave some mony, and so were suffer'd to passe, which 
 was still on the Appian to the Tres Tabernas (whither the breathren 
 came from Rome to meete St. Paule, Acts, c. 2S) ; the ruines whereof 
 are yet very faire, resembling the remainder of some considerable edi- 
 fice, as may be judged by the vast stones and fairenesse of the arched 
 worke. The country invironing this passage is hilly, but rich ; on the 
 right hand stretches an ample playne, being the Pomptini Campi. We 
 repos'd this night at Piperno, in the Post-house without the towne ; 
 and here I was extreamely troubled with a sore hand from a mischance 
 at Rome, i\hich now began to fester, upon my base, unlucky, stiff- 
 necked, trotting, carrion mule, which are in the world the most wretched 
 beasts. In this towne was the Poet Virgil's Camilla borne. 
 
 The day following we were faine to hire a strong convey of about 30 
 firelocks to guard us through the Cork-woods (much infested with the 
 Banditti) as far as Nova Fossa, where was the Appii Forum, and now 
 stands a Church with a greate Monastry, the place where Thomas 
 Aquinas both studied and lyes buried. Here we all alighted, and were 
 most courteously received by the Monks, who shevv'd us many reliques 
 of their learned Saint, and at the high altar the print forsooth of the 
 mule's hoofe which he caused to kneele before the Host. The Church 
 is old, built after the Gotiq manner ; but the place is very agreeably 
 melancholy. After this, pursuing the same noble [Appian] way (which 
 we had before left a little) we found it to stretch from Capua to Rome 
 itselfe, and afterwards as far as Brundusium. It was built by that 
 famous Consul, 25 foote broad, every 12 foote something ascending for 
 the ease and firmer footing of horse and man ; both the sides are also a 
 little rais'd for those who travell on foote. The whole is paved with a 
 kind of beach-stone, and, as I say'd, ever and anon adorn'd with some 
 old ruine, sepulcher, or broken statue. In one of these monuments 
 Pancirollus tells us that in the time of Paul III. there was found the 
 body of a young lady swimming in a kind of bath of precious oyle or 
 liquor, fresh and entire as if she had been living, neither her face disco- 
 lour'd, nor her haire disorder'd : at her feete burnt a lamp which sud- 
 dainely expir'd at the opening of the vault ; having flam'd, as was com- 
 puted, now 1500 yeares, by the conjecture that she was TuUiola the 
 daughter of Cicero whose body was thus found, and as the inscription 
 testified. We din'd this day at Terracina, heretofore the famous Anxur, 
 which stands upon a very eminent promontorj', the Cercean by name. 
 Whilst meate was preparing I went up into the town, and view'd the 
 fayre remainders of Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a Churcli, 
 adorn'd with most stately columns ; its architecture has been excellent, 
 
122 THE APPIAN WAY. TOMB OF CICERO. CAJETA. 
 
 as may be deduc'd from the goodly cornices, mouldings, and huge 
 white marbles of which 'tis built. Before the portico stands a pillar 
 thus inscrib'd : 
 
 Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta 
 Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco. 
 for it seemes Theodoric drayn'd their marches. On another more 
 ancient : Imp. Cssar Divi Nerva Filius Nerva Trajanus Aug. Ger- 
 manicus Dacicus, Pontif. Max Trib. Pop. xvni. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p.p. 
 XVIII. Silices sua pecunia stravit. 
 Meaning doubtlesse some part of the Via Appia. Then, 
 
 Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Prefect. Classis— Ti, 
 Julius T. Fab. optatus II vir. 
 
 Here is likewise a Columna Miliaria with something engraven on it, 
 but I could not stay to consider it. Coming down againe, I went to- 
 wards the sea side to contemplate that stupendious strange rock and 
 promontory, cleft by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within 
 this is the Cercean Cave, which I went into a good way ; it makes a 
 dreadfuU noyse by reason of the roaring and impetuous waves con- 
 tinualy assaulting the beach, and that in an unusual manner. At the 
 top at an excessive height stands an old and very greate castle. We 
 ariv'd this night at Fundi, a most dangerous passage for robbing ; and 
 so we pass'd by Galba's Villa, and anon entred the kingdome of 
 Naples, where at the gate this epigraph saluted us : " Hospes hie sunt 
 fines Regni Neopolitani ; si amicus advenis, pacatfe omnia invenies, et 
 mails moribus pulsis,bonas leges." The Via Appia is here a noble pros- 
 pect ; having before consider'd how it was carried through vast moun- 
 taines of rocks for many miles, by most stupendious labour : here it is 
 infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres and antiquities, full of sweete 
 shrubbs in the invironing hedges. At Fundi we had oranges and cit- 
 rons for nothing, the trees growing in every corner, charged with fruite. 
 
 29. We descried Mount Csecubus, famous for the generous wine it 
 heretofore produc'd, and so rid onward the Appian Way, beset with 
 myrtils, lentiscus, bayes, pomegranads, and whole groves of orange- 
 trees and most delicious shrubbs, till we came to Formiana, where they 
 shew'd us Cicero's Tomb standing in an olive grove, now a rude heap 
 of stones, without fonne or beauty ; for here that incomparable Orator 
 was murther'd. I shall never forget how exceedingly I was delighted 
 with the sweetenesse of this passage, the sepulcher mixed amongst aU 
 sorts of verdure ; besides being now come within sight of the noble Citty 
 Cajeta, which gives a surprizing prospect along the Tyrrhen Sea in 
 manner of a Theater : and here we beheld that strangely cleft rock, a 
 frightfuU spectacle, which they say happen'd upon the passion of our 
 Bl. Saviour ; but the hast of our Procaccio did not suffer us to dwell so 
 long on these objects, and the many antiquities of this towne, as we 
 desired- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 123 
 
 At Fonnia we saw Cicero's grott, dining at Mola, and passing 
 Senuessa, Garigliano (once the Citty Minterna), and beheld the ruines 
 of that vast amphitheatre and aqua^duct yet standing ; the river Liris, 
 which bounded the old Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massicus, cele- 
 brated for its wine, now named Garo ; and this night we lodged at a 
 little village called Agatha, in the Falernian Feilds neere to Aurunca 
 and Sessa. 
 
 The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we come by the 
 Torre di Francolesse, where Hannibal in danger from Fabius Maximus 
 escaped by debauching his enemyes ; and so at last we enter'd the most 
 pleasant plaines of Campania, now call'd Terra di Lavoro ; in very truth, 
 I thinke, the most fertile spot that ever the sun shone upon. Here we saw 
 the slender ruines of the once mighty Capua, contending at once both 
 with Rome and Carthage, for splendor and empire, now nothing but a 
 heape of rubbish, except shewing some vestige of its former magnificence 
 in pieces of temples, arches, theaters, columns, ports, vaults, colossas, 
 &c. confounded together by the barbarous Goths and Longobards ; 
 there is however a new Citty, neerer to the road by two miles, fairely 
 rays'd out of these heapes. The passage from this towne to Naples 
 (which is about 10 or 12 English post miles,) is as straight as a line, of 
 great breadth, fuller of travellers than I remember any of our greatest 
 and most frequented roads neere London ; but what is extreamely 
 pleasing, is the great fertility of the feilds, planted with fruit-trees, 
 whose boles are serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant 
 that 'tis commonly reported one vine will loade 5 mules with its grapes. 
 What adds much to the pleasure of the sight is that the vines, climbing 
 to the summit of the trees, reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree 
 to another, planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful pic- 
 ture than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes for suggar, 
 olives, pomegranads, mulberrys, cittrons, oranges, figgs, and other 
 sorts of rare fruites. About the middle of the way is the towne Aversa, 
 wither came 3 or 4 coaches to meete our ladye-travellers, of whom we 
 now tooke leave, having ben very merry by the way with them and the 
 capitano their gallant. 
 
 31 Jan. About noone we enter'd the Citty of Naples, alighting 
 at the 3 Kings, where we found the most plentifull fare all the 
 ■yme we were in Naples. Provisions are wonderfully cheape ; we 
 seldom sat downe to fewer than 18 or 20 dishes ot exquisite meate 
 and fruites. 
 
 The morrow after our arival, in the afternoone, we hired a coach to 
 carry us about the towne. First we went to the Castle of St. Elmo, 
 built on a very high rock, whence we had an intire prospect of the whole 
 Citty, which lyes in shape of a theatre upon the sea brinke, with all 
 the circumjacent islands, as far as Capreffi, famous for the debauched 
 recesses of Tiberius. This Fort is the bridle ot the whole Citty, and 
 
124 NAPLES ; ST. ELMO ; THE MOLE ; CATHEDRAL AND CKURCHES 
 
 was well stor'd and garrison'd with native Spanyards. The strangenesse 
 of the precipice and rarenesse of the prospect of so many magnificent 
 and stately Palaces, Churches, and IMonasteries, with the Arsenall, the 
 Mole, and Mount Vesuvius in the distance, all in full com'and of the 
 eye, make it one of the richest landskips in the world. 
 
 Hence we descended to another strong Castle, cal'd II Castello 
 Nuovo, which protects the shore, but they would by no intreaty permit 
 us to go in ; the outward defence seemes to consist but in 4 towrs, very 
 high, and an exceeding deepe graft with thick walls. Opposite to this 
 is the Toure of St. Vincent, which is also very strong. 
 
 Then we went to the very noble Palace of the Viceroy, partly old 
 and part of a newer work, but we did not stay long here. Towards tfie 
 evening we tooke the ayre upon the Mole, which is a streete on the 
 rampart or banke rays'd in the Sea for security of their gallys in port, 
 built as that of Genoa. Here I observed a rich fountaine in the middle 
 of the Piazza, and adorn'd with divers rare statues of copper repre- 
 senting the Sirens or Deities of the Parthenope, spouting large streames 
 of water into an ample shell, all of cast metall, and of great cost ; this 
 stands at the entrance of the Mole, where we mett many of the Nobility 
 both on horseback and in their coaches to take \h.& fresco from the Sea, 
 as the manner is, it being in the most advantageous quarter for good 
 ayre, delight, and prospect. Here we saw divers goodly horses who 
 handsomly become their riders, the Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole 
 is about 500 paces in length, and paved I'-ith a square hewn stone. 
 From the Mole we ascend to a Church, of greate antiquity, formerly 
 sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greeke letters carv'd on the archi- 
 trave and the busts of their two statues testify. It is now converted 
 into a stately Oratory by the Theatines. 
 
 The Cathedrall is a most magnificent pile, and, except St. Peter's in 
 Rome, Naples exceeds all Cittys for stately Churches and Monasteries. 
 We were told that this day the blood of St. Genuarius and his head 
 should be expos'd, and so we found it, but obtain'd not to see the 
 miracle of the boiling of this blood, as was told us. The next we went 
 to see was St. Peter's, richly adorned, the Chapel especialy, where that 
 Apostle sayd masse, as is testified on the walle. 
 
 After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they shew'd us the 
 Crucifix that is reported to have sayd these words to St. Thomas, 
 " Bene de me scripsisti Thoma." Hence to the Padri Ohvetani, famous 
 for the monument of the learned Alexand. ab Alexandro. 
 
 We went the next day to visite the Church of Sta. Maria Maggiore, 
 where we spent much tyme in surveying the Chapell of Joh. Jov. Pon- 
 tanus, and in it the severall and excellent sentences and epitaphs on 
 bimselfe, wife, children, and friends, full of rare witt and worthy of 
 recording as we find them in severall writers. In the same Chapell is 
 shew'd an arrae of Titus Livius with this epigraph ; "Titi Livij brachium 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 12$ 
 
 quod Anton. Panormita a Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus 
 multos post annos hoc in loco ponendum curavit." 
 
 Climbing a steepe hill we came to the Monastery and Church of the 
 Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly prospect towards the Sea 
 and Citty, the one full of gallys and ships, the other of stately palaces, 
 churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, 
 Mount Vesuvius smoaking, the Promontory of Minerva and Misenum, 
 Capreje, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipe, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtlesse 
 one of the most divertisant and considerable vistas in the world. The 
 Church is most elegantly built ; the very pavements of the common 
 cloyster being all layd with variously polish'd marbles richly figur'd. 
 They shew'd us a massie crosse of silver much celebrated for the work- 
 manship and carving, and sayd to have been 14 yeares in perfecting. 
 The Quire also is of rare arte ; but above all to be admir'd is the yet 
 unfinish'd Church of the Jesuites, certainly if accomplished not to be 
 equal'd in Europe. Hence we pass'd by the Palazzo Caraffi, full of 
 ancient and very noble statues ; also the Palace of the Ursini. Tho 
 next day we did little but visite some friends, English merchants resi- 
 dent for their negotiation ; onely this morning at the Viceroy's Cavale- 
 rizzo I saw the noblest horses that I had ever beheld, one of his scnns 
 riding the menage with that addresse and de.xterity as I had never seene 
 any thing approch it. 
 
 4 Feb. We were invited to the collection of exotic rarities in the 
 Museum of Ferdinando Imperati, a Neapolitan nobleman, and one of 
 the most observable palaces in the Citty, the repository of incompara- 
 ble rarities. Amongst the naturall Herbals most remarkable was the 
 Byssus marina and Pinna marina j the male and female Camelion ; an 
 Onacratulus J an extraordinary greate Crocodile ; some of the Orcades 
 Anates, held here for a great rarity ; likewise a Salamander; the male 
 and female Manucodiata, the male having an hollow in the back, in 
 which 'tis reported the female both layes and hatches her egg ; the 
 Mandragoras of both sexes ; Papyrus made of severall reedes, and some 
 of silke ; tables of the rinds of trees written with Japoniq characters ; 
 another of the branches of palme ; many Indian fruites ; a chrystal that 
 had a quantity of uncongealed water within its cavity ; a petrified 
 fisher's net ; divers sorts of Tarantulas, being a monstrous spider with 
 lark like clawes, and somewhat bigger. 
 
 5 Feb. The next day we beheld the Vice-king's procession, which 
 was very splendid for the reliques, banners, and musiq, which accom- 
 panied the B. Sacrament. The ceremony tooke up most of the morning. 
 
 6 Feb. We went by coach to take the ayre, and see the diversions 
 or rather maddnesse of the Carnival ; the courtisans (who swarme in 
 this Citty to the number, as we are told, of 30,000, registred and pay- 
 ing a tax to the State) flinging eggs of sweete water into our coach as 
 we passed by the houses and windows. Indeed thetowne is so pester'd 
 
126 ASCENT OF VESUVIUS, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE VOLCANO 
 
 with these cattell, that there needes no small mortification to preserve 
 from their enchantment, whilst they display all their naturall and ar- 
 tificiall beauty, play, sing, feigne compliment, and by a thousand stu- 
 died devices seeke to inveigle foolish young men. 
 
 7. The next day being Saturday we went 4 miles out of towne on 
 mules to see that famous Volcano Mount Vesuvius. Here we passe a 
 faire fountaine cal'd Labulla, which continually boyles, suppos'd to pro- 
 ceed from Vesuvius, and thence over a river and bridg, where on a 
 large upright stone is engraven a notable inscription relative to the 
 memorable eruption in 1630. 
 
 Approching the hill as we were able with our mules, we alighted 
 crawling up the rest of the proclivity with great difficulty, now with our 
 feete, now with our hands, not without many untoward slipps which 
 did much bruise us on the various colour'd cinders with which the 
 whole mountaine is cover'd, some like pitch, others full of perfect brim- 
 stone, others metaliq, interspers'd with innumerable pumices (of all 
 which I made a collection), we at the last gain'd the sum'it of an exces- 
 sive altitude ; turning our faces towards Naples, it presents one of the 
 goodliest prospects in the world ; all the Baiae, Cuma, Elyssian Fields, 
 Capreae, Ischia, Prochita, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly Citty, with a 
 great portion of the Tyrrhen Sea, offering themselves to your view at 
 once, and at so agreeable a distance, as nothing can be more delight- 
 full. The mountaine consists of a double top, the one pointed very 
 sharp, and com'only appearing above any clouds, the other blunt. 
 Here as we approch'd we met many large gaping clefts and chasms, 
 out of which issued such sulphureous blasts and smoke that we durst 
 not stand long neere them. Having gain'd the very summit, I layd 
 myself downe to looke over and into that most frightfuU and terrible 
 vorago, a stupendious pit of neere three miles in circuit and halfe a mile 
 in depth, by a perpendicular hollow cliffe (like that from the highest 
 part of Dover Castle), with now and then a craggy prominency jetting 
 out. The area at the bottom is plaine like an even'd floore, which 
 seemes to be made by the winds circling the ashes by its eddy blasts. 
 In the middle and center is a hill shaped like a greate browne loafe, 
 appearing to consist of sulphurous matter, continualy vomiting a foggy 
 exhalation, and ejecting huge stones with an impetuous noise and roar- 
 ing like the report of many musquets discharging. This horrid Bara- 
 thrum engaged our attention for some houres, both for the strangnesse 
 of the spectacle and the mention which the old histories make of it, as 
 one of the most stupendious curiosities in nature, and which made the 
 learned and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect the causes, 
 and to loose it in too desperate an approch. It is likewise famous for 
 the stratagem of the rebell Spartacus, who did so much mischiefe to 
 the State, lurking amongst and protected by these horrid caverns, when 
 it was more accessible and lesse dangerous than now it is ; but especialy 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 12/ 
 
 notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in anno 1630, it burst 
 out beyond what it had ever don in the memory of history, throwing 
 out huge stones and fiery pumices in such quantity as not onely invi- 
 ron'd the whole mountaine, but totaly buried and overwhelm'd divers 
 townes and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more than an hun- 
 dred miles, and utterly devastating all those vineyards where formerly 
 grew the most incomparable Greco ; when bursting thro' the bowels ot 
 the earth it absorb'd the very Sea, and with its whirling waters drew in 
 divers gallyes and other vessells to their destruction, as is faithfully re- 
 corded. We descended with more ease than we climb'd up, thro' 
 a deepe vallie of pure ashes, which at the late eruption was a flowing 
 river of mealted and burning brimstone, and so came to our mules at 
 the foote of the mountaine. 
 
 On Sunday we with our guide visited the so much celebrated Baia; 
 and natural rarities of the places adjacent. Here we enter the moun- 
 taine Pausihpo, at the left hand of which they shew'd us Virgil's sepul- 
 chre erected on a steepe rock, in forme of a small rotunda or cupolated 
 columne, but almost overgrowne with bushes and wild baye trees. At 
 the entrance is this inscription : 
 
 Stanisi Cencovius. 
 
 1589. 
 
 Qui cineres ? Tumuli hsc vestigia, conditur olim 
 
 lUe hoc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura, Duces. 
 
 Can. Ree MDLIII. ' 
 
 After we were advanc'd into this noble and altogether wonderfull 
 crypt, consisting of a passage spacious enough for two coaches to go 
 on breast, cut thro' a rocky mountaine neere three quarters of a mile, 
 (by the ancient Cimmerii as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, 
 who employ'd an hundred thousand men on it,) we came to the mid- 
 way, where there is a well bor'd through the diameter of this vast moun- 
 taine, which admitts the light into a pretty chapel, hewn out of the 
 natural rock, wherein hang divers lamps perpetuaiy burning. The way 
 is pav'd under foote, but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so 
 excessively in this much frequented passage that we were forc'd at mid- 
 day to use a torch. At length we were deliver'd from the bowels of the 
 earth into one of the most delicious plaines in the world : the oranges, 
 lemons, pomegranads, and other fruites, blushing yet on the perpetuaiy 
 greene trees ; for the summer is here eternal, caus'd by the natural and 
 adventitious heate of the earth, warm'd through the subterranean fires, 
 
 1 Such is the inscription, as copied by Mr. Evelyn : but as its sense is not very clear, and 
 as the Diary contains instances of incorrectness in transcribing, the Editor has thought it de- 
 sirable to subjoin the distich said by Keysler in his Travels, vol. II. p. 433, to be the only one 
 in the whole mausoleum : 
 
 ** Qu3e cineris tumulo hsec vestigia ? cotiditur olim 
 lUe hoc qui cecinit, pascua, rura, duces." 
 
128 LAGO DI AGNANO ; CHARON'S CAVE ; COURT OF VULCAN. 
 
 as was shewn us by our guide, who alighted, and cutting up a turf with 
 his knife, and delivering it to me, was so hot I was hardly able to hold 
 it in my hands. This mountaine is exceedingly fruitful! in vines, and 
 exotics grow readily. We now came to a lake of about two miles 
 in circumference, inviron'd with hills ; the water of it is fresh and swete 
 on the surface, but salt at botome, some mineral s.alt conjectured to be 
 the cause, and 'tis reported of that profunditude in the middle that it is 
 botomelesse. The people call it Lago di Agnano from the multitude 
 of serpents which involved together about the spring fall downe from 
 the cliffy hills into it. It has no fish, nor will any live in it. We tried 
 the old experiment on a dog in the Grotto del Cane, or Charon's Cave ; 
 it is not above three or four paces deepe, and about the height of a man, 
 nor very broad. Whatever having life enters it presently expires. Of 
 this we made tryal with two doggs, one of which we bound to a short 
 pole to guide him the more directly into the further part of the den, 
 where he was no sooner entered, but without the least noyse, or so much 
 as a struggle, except that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, 
 his eyes being fix'd ; we drew him out dead to all appearance, but im- 
 mediately plunging him into the adjoyning lake, within lesse than halfe 
 an houre he recover'd, and swimming to shore ran away from us. We 
 tried the same on another dogg without the application of the water, 
 and left him quite dead. The experiment has been made on men, as 
 on that poore creature whom Peter of Toledo caus'd to go in ; likewise 
 on some Turkish slaves ; two souldiers, and other foole-hardy persons, 
 who all perished, and could never be recover'd by the water of the lake 
 as are doggs, for which many learned reasons have ben ofifer'd, as 
 Simon Majolus in his booke of the Canicular-dayes has mention'd, 
 coUoq, 15. And certainely the most likely is, the effect of those hot 
 and dry vapours which ascend out of the earth and are condensed by 
 the ambient cold, as appeares by their converting into chrystaline drops 
 on the top, whilst at the botome 'tis so excessively hott that a torch 
 being extinguished neere it, and lifted a little distance, was suddainely 
 relighted. Neere to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain, of 
 tiie nature of sudatories, in certaine chambers partition'd with stone 
 for the sick to sweate in, the vapours here being exceedingly hot, and 
 of admirable successe in the goute and other cold distempers of the 
 nerves. Hence we climb'd up an hill, the very highway in several 
 places even smoaking with heate like a fournace. The mountaines were 
 by the Greekes called Leucoyei, and the fields Phlsegrean. Hercules 
 here vanquished the Gyants assisted with lightning. We now came to 
 the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a valley neere a quarter of a mile in 
 breadth, the margent inviron'd with steepe cliffes, out of whose sides 
 and foote break forth fire and smoke in aboundance, making a noyse 
 like a tempest of water, and sometimes discharging in lowd reports 
 like so many guns. The heate of this place is wtinderfuU ; the earth 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 129 
 
 Itselfe being almost unsufferable, and which the subterranean fires have 
 made so hollow, by having wasted the matter for so many yeares, that 
 it sounds like a drum to those who walke upon it ; and the water thus 
 struggling with those fires bubbles and spoutes aloft into the ayre. The 
 mouthes of these spiracles are bestrew'd with variously-colour'd cinders, 
 which rise with the vapour, as do many colour'd stones, according to 
 the quality of the combustible matter, insomuch as 'tis no little adven- 
 ture to approch them ; they are however daily frequented both by sick 
 and well, the former receiving the fumes have been recover'd of diseases 
 esteem'd incurable. Here we found a greate deal of sulphure made, 
 which they refine in certaine houses neere the place, casting it into 
 canes, to a very greate value. Neere this we were shew'd an hill of 
 alume, where is one of the best mineries, yielding a considerable reve- 
 nue. Some flowres of brasse are found here ; but I could not but 
 smile at those who perswade themselves that here are the Gates of 
 Purgatory, (for which it may be they have erected very neere it a 
 Convent and named it St Januarius,) reporting to have often heard 
 screeches and horrible lamentations proceeding from these caverns and 
 volcanos ; with other legends of birds that are never scene save on 
 Sundayes, which cast themselves into the lake at night, appearing no 
 more all the weeke after. 
 
 We now approach'd the ruines of a very stately Temple or Theatre 
 of 172 foote in length and about 80 in breadth, throwne downe by an 
 earthquake not long since ; it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under 
 the ground are many strange meanders, from which it is nam'd the 
 Labyrinth ; this place is so haunted with batts that their perpetual flut- 
 tering endanger'd the putting out our linkes. 
 
 Hence we passed againe those boiling and smoking hills till we came 
 to Puzzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, the landing-place of St. Paule 
 when he came into Italy after the tempest described in the Acts of 
 the Apostles. Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers 
 medailes and other curiosities, antiquities, &c. of the country people, who 
 daily find such things amongst the very old ruines of those places. This 
 Towne was formerly a Greeke Colonic, built by the Samians, a reason- 
 able commodious Port, and full of observable antiquities. We saw 
 the ruines of Neptune's Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and 
 neere it the stately palace and gardens of Peter de Toledo, formerly 
 mentioned. Afterwards we visited that admirably built Temple of 
 Augustus, seeming to have been hewn out of an intire rock, tho' in- 
 deede consisting of several square stones. The inscription remaines 
 thus " L. Calphurnius L. E. Templum Augusto cum ornamentis D. D." 
 md under it ; " L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus Architectus." It 
 is now converted into a Church, in which they shew'd us huge bones, 
 which they affirme to have ben of some gyant. 
 We went to see the ruines of the old Haven, so compact with that 
 
 9 
 
13' EARTHQUAKES. LUCRINE LAKE. LAKE AVERNUS. 
 
 bituminous sand in which the materials are layd, as the like is hardly 
 to be found, though all this has not ben sufficient to protect it from the 
 fatal concussions of several earthquakes (frequent here) which hav« 
 almost demolish'd it, 13 vast piles of marble onely remaining, a stu- 
 pendous worke in the bosome of Neptune ! To this joynes the bridg of 
 Caligula, by which (having now embarq'd ourselves) we sail'd to the 
 pleasant Baiae, almost 4 miles in length, all which way that prowd 
 Emperor would passe in triumph. Here we row'd along towards a 
 villa of the orator Cicero's, where we were shew'd the ruines of his 
 Academy, and at the foote of a rock his Bathes, the waters reciprocat- 
 ing their tides with the neighbouring sea. Hard at hand rises Mount 
 Ganrus, being, as I conceiv'd, nothing save an heape of pumices, 
 which here floate in aboundance on the sea, exhausted of all inflam- 
 mable matter by the fire, which renders them light and porous, so as the 
 beds of nitre which lye deepeunderthem having taken fire dos easily eject 
 them. They dig much for fancied treasure said to be conceil'd about 
 this place. From hence we coasted neere the ruines of Portus Julius, 
 where we might see divers stately palaces that had ben swallow'dup by 
 the sea after earthquakes. Coming to shore we passe by the Lucrine 
 Lake, so famous heretofore for its delicious oysters, now producing few 
 or none, being divided from the sea by a banke of incredible labour, the 
 suppos'd worke of Hercules ; 'tis now halfe chock'd up with rubbish, and 
 by part of the new mountaine, which rose partly out of it, and partly 
 out of the sea, and that in the space of one night and a day, to neere 
 the altitude of a mile, on the 29 Sept. 1538, after many terrible 
 earthquakes which ruined divers places thereabout, when at midnight 
 the sea retiring neere 200 paces, and yawning on the sudaine, it con- 
 tinued to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in such quantity as pro- 
 duced this whole mountaine by their fall, making the inhabitants of 
 Puzzole to leave their habitations, supposing the end of the world 
 had ben come. 
 
 From the left part of this we walked to the Lake Avemus, of a 
 round forme, and totaly inviron'd with mountaines. This lake was 
 fain'd by the Poete for the gates of Hell, by which jEneas made his 
 descent, and where they sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The 
 waters are of a remarkable black colour, but I tasted of them without 
 danger ; hence they faigne that the river Styx has its source. At one 
 side stand the handsome ruines of a Temple dedicated to Apollo, or 
 rather Pluto, but 'tis controverted. Opposite to this, having new 
 lighted our torches, we enter a vast cave, in which having gon about 
 two hundred paces, we passe a narrow entry which lead us into a roome 
 of about 10 paces long, proportionable broad and high ; the side walls 
 and roofe retaine still the golden Mosaiq, though now exceedingly 
 deca/d by time. Here is a short cell, or rather niche, cut out of the 
 solid rock, somewhat resembling a couch, in which they report that 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYW. 131 
 
 the Sibylla lay and utter'd her oracles ; but is supposed by most to have 
 been a bath onely. This subterranean grott leads quite through to 
 Cuma, but is in some places obstructed by the earth which has sunk in, 
 so as we were constrain'd back againe & to creep on our bellys belore 
 we came to the light. 'Tis reported Nero had once resolved to cut a 
 channel for two greate gallys that should have extended to Ostia, an 
 150 miles distant. The people now call it Licola. 
 
 From hence we ascended to that most ancient Citty of Italy, the re- 
 nowned Cuma, built by the Grecians. It stands on a very eminent pro- 
 montory, but is now an heape of ruines. A little below stands the 
 .A.rco Felice, heretofore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations 
 of divers goodly buildings ; amongst whose heapes are frequently found 
 statues and other antiquities, by such as dig for them. Neere this is 
 the Lake Acherutia and Acheron. Returning to the shore we came 
 to the Bagnie de Tritoli and Diana, which are onely long narrow pas- 
 sages cut through the maine rock, where the vapours ascend so hot 
 that entring with the body erect you will even faint with excessive perspi- 
 ration, but stooping lower as suddaine a cold surprizes. These suda- 
 tories are much in request for many infirmityes. Now we enter'd the 
 haven of the Baiss, where once stood that famous Towne, so call'd 
 from the Companion of Ulysses here buried ; not without greate reason 
 celebrated for one of the most delicious places that the sunn shines on, 
 according to that of Horace : 
 
 " Nullus in Orbe locus Bails praelucet amoenis.'' 
 Though as to the stately fabrics there now remaine little save the- 
 ruines, whereof the most intire is that of Diana's Temple, and another 
 of Venus. Here were those famous pooles of lampreys that would 
 come to hand when call'd by name, as Martial tells us. On the 
 sum'ite of the rock stands a strong Castle garison'd to protect the shore 
 from Turkish Pyrates. It was once the retyring place of Julius Caesar. 
 
 Passing by the shore againe we entered Bauli, observable from the 
 monstrous murther of Nero com'itted on his mother Agrippina. Her- 
 sepulchre was yet shew'd us in the rock, which we enter'd, being cover'd 
 with sundry heads and figures of beasts. We saw there the rootes of a 
 tree turn'd into stone, and are continualy dropping. 
 
 Thus having view'd the foundations of the old Cimeria, the palaces> 
 of Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities,, 
 we proceeded towards the Promontory of Misenus, renown'd for the 
 sepulchre of jEneas's Trumpeter. 'Twas once a greate Citty, now 
 hardly a mine, sayd to have ben built from this place to the Promon- 
 tory of Minerva, 50 miles distant, now discontinu'd and demolish'd; 
 by the frequent earthquakes. Here was the villa of Caius Marius,. 
 where Tiberius Cassar died ; and here runs the Aqussduct, thought to- 
 be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly arched with, 
 marble, as the ruines testifie. Hence we walked to those receptacles. 
 
'32 THE ELYSIAN FIELDS ; PUZZOLO ; ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 of water cal'd Piscina Mirabilis, being a vault of 500 feet long, and 
 22 in breadth, the roofe prop'd up with 4 rankes of square pillars, 
 1 2 in a row ; the walls are brick plaster'd over with such a composi- 
 tion as for strength and politure resembles white marble. 'Tis con- 
 ceiv'd to have ben built by Nero, as a conservatory for fresh water ; 
 as were also the Centi Camerelli, into which we were next led. All 
 these Crypta being now almost sunke into the earth, shew yet their 
 former amplitude and magnificence. 
 
 Returning towards the BaiE we againe passe the Elyssian Fields, 
 so celebrated by the Poetes, nor unworthily, for their situation and 
 verdure, being full of myrtils and sweete shrubs, and having a most 
 delightful prospect towards the Tyrrhen Sea. Upon the verge of these 
 remaine the ruines of the Mercato di Sabato, formerly a Circus ; over 
 the arches stand divers urnes full of Roman ashes. 
 
 Having well satisfied our curiosity among these Antiquities, we 
 retir'd to our felucca, which row'd us back againe towards Puzzolo, at 
 the very place of St. Paule's landing. Keeping along the shore they 
 shew'd us a place where the sea-water and sands did exceedingly boyle. 
 Thence to the Island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph ; and thus we 
 leave the Baise, so renowned for the sweete retirements of the most 
 opulent and voluptuous Romans. They certainly were places of uncom- 
 mon amcenitie, as their yet tempting site and other circumstances of 
 natural curiosities easily invite me to believe, since there is not in the 
 world so many stupendious rarities to be met with as in the circle of a 
 few miles which inviron these blissfull aboades. 
 
 8 Feb. We went to see the Arsenal, well furnish'd with gallies and 
 other vessells. The Citty is crowded with inhabitants, gentlemen and 
 merchants. The Government is held of the Pope by an annual tribute 
 of 40,000 ducats and a white Genet ; but the Spanyard trusts more to 
 the power of those his natural subjects there ; Apulia and Calabria 
 yielding him neere 4 millions of crownes yearely to maintaine it. The 
 country is divided into 13 Provinces, 20 Archbishops, and 107 Bishops. 
 The estates of the nobility in default of the male line, reverting to the 
 King. Besides the Vice-Roy there is amongst the Chiefe Magistrates 
 an High Constable, Admiral, Chiefe Justice, Create Chamberlaine, and 
 Chancelor, with a Secretary ; these being prodigiously avaricious, do 
 wonderfully inrich themselves out of the miserable people's labour, 
 silks, manna, sugar, oyle, wine, rice, sulphur, and alome, for with all 
 these riches is this dehcious country blest. Thejiianna falls at certain 
 seasons on the adjoyning hills in forme of a thick dew. The very 
 winter here is a Summer, ever fruitfull, so that in the middle of Feb- 
 ruary we had melons, cheries, abricots, and many other sorts of fruite. 
 The building of the Citty is for the size the most magnificent of any 
 JTv Europe, the streetes exceeding large, well paved, having many vaults 
 and conveyances under them for the suUage, which renders them very 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. I33 
 
 sweete and cleane even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth more 
 than 3000 Churches and monasteries, and those the best built and 
 adorn'd of any in Italy. They greately affect the Spanish gravity in 
 their habite ; dehght in good horses ; the streetes are full of gallants 
 on horseback, in coaches and sedans, from hence brought first into 
 England by Sir Sanders Duncomb. The women are generaly well 
 featur'd but excessively libidinous. The country-people so jovial and 
 addicted to musick, that the very husbandmen almost universaly play 
 on the guitarr, singing and composing songs in prayse of their sweete- 
 hearts, and wil commonly goe to the field with their fiddle ; they are 
 merry, witty, and genial, all which I milch attribute to the excellent 
 quality of the ayre. They have a deadly hatred to the French, so that 
 some our company were flouted at for wearing red cloakes, as the mode 
 then was. 
 
 This I made the non ultra of my travels, sufficiently sated with 
 rolling up and downe, and resolving within myselfe to be no longer an 
 individuum vagum if ever I got home againe, since from the report of 
 divers experienc'd and curious persons I had ben assur'd there was 
 little more to be seene in the rest of the civil world, after Italy, France, 
 Flanders, and the Low Country, but plaine and prodigious barbarisme. ' 
 
 Thus about Feb. 7 we set out on our return to Rome by the same ' 
 way we came, not daring to adventure by Sea, as some of our company 
 were inclin'd to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on that coast ; 
 nor made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated place and 
 sepulchre of the famous Duelists who decided the ancient quarrell 
 betweene their imperious neighbours with the loss of their lives. These 
 brothers, the Horatij and Curiatij, lye buried neere the highway, under 
 two ancient pyramids of stone, now somewhat decay'd and overgrowne 
 with rubbish. We tooke the opportunity of tasting the wine here, which 
 is famous. 
 
 Being arived at Rome on Feb. 13 we were againe invited to Signor 
 Angeloni's study, where with greater leysure we survey 'd the rarities, as 
 his cabinet and medaills especialy, esteem'd one of the best collections 
 of them in Europe. He also shew'd us two antiq lamps, one of them 
 dedicated to Palas, the other Laribus Sacru\ as appeared by their in- 
 scriptions ; some old Roman rings and keyes ; the Egyptian Isis cast 
 in yron ; sundry rare bas-relievos ; good pieces of paynting, princi- 
 pally the Christ of Corregio, with this painter's owne face admirably 
 don by himselfe : divers of both the Bassanos ; a greate number of 
 pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs ; an infinity of naturall 
 rarities, dry'd animals, Indian habits and weapons, shells, &c. ; divers 
 very antiq statues of brasse; some lamps of so fine an earth that they 
 resembled cornelians for transparency and colour ; hinges of Corin- 
 thian brasse, and one greate nayle of the same mettal found in the 
 ruines of Nero's golden house. 
 
134 TRANSTEVERE • SANTA CECILIA ; TEMPLE OF ^SCULAPIUS. 
 
 In the aftemoone we ferried over to Transtevere, to the Palace of 
 Gichi, to review the works of Raphael : and returning by St. Angelo, 
 we saw the Castle as far as was permitted, and on the other side con- 
 sidered those admirable pilasters suppos'd to be of the foundation of 
 the Pons Sublicius, over which Hor. Codes pass'd ; here ajjkor 3 or 4 
 water-mills invented by Belizarius ; and thence had another sight of 
 the Farnesi's gardens, and of the tarrace where is that admirable 
 paynting of Raphael, being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought 
 afresca, preserv'd in shutters of wainscott, as well it merites, being cer- 
 tainely one of the most wonderful pieces of worke in the world. 
 
 14 Feb. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built and endow'd by 
 Cardinal Sfrondaeti, who has erected a stately altar neere the body of 
 this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about,'a veile 
 on her head, and the bloody scarrs of 3 wounds on the neck ; the body 
 is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it in snow-white marble. 
 Other Saints lie here decorated with splendid ornaments, lamps, and 
 incensories of greate cost. A little farther they shew us the Bathe of 
 St. Cecilia, to which joynes a Convent of Friers, where is the picture of 
 the Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the Portico taken from 
 the Bathes of Septimius Severus. 
 
 15 Feb. Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tiber and visited the 
 Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's), formerly cut in the shape of 
 a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisq represented 
 the mast. In the Church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the 
 Apostle. Here are the mines of the Temple of ^sculapius, now con- 
 verted into a stately Hospital and a pretty Convent. Opposite to it is 
 the Convent and Church of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing re- 
 markable save an old broken altar. Here v/as the Temple of Fortuna 
 Virilis. Hence we went to a cupola, now a Church, formerly dedi- 
 cated to the Sun. Opposite to it Santa Maria Schola Grseca, where for- 
 merly that tongue was taught, said to be the second Church dedicated 
 in Rome to the Bl. Virgin, bearing also the title of a Cardinalat. 
 Behind this stands the greate altar of Hercules, much demolish'd. 
 Neere this, being at the foote of Mount Avantine, are the Pope's salt- 
 houses. Ascending the hill we came to St. Sabina, an ancient fabric, 
 formerly sacred to Diana ; there in a Chapel is an admirable picture, 
 the work of Livia Fontana, set about with columns of alabaster, and in 
 the middle of the Church is a stone, cast as they report, by the Devil 
 at St. Dominic whilst he was at masse. Hence we travelled towards 
 an heape of rubbish called the Marmorata on the bank of the Tyber, 
 a magazine of stones, and neere which formerly stood a triumphal arch 
 in honor of Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The mines of the 
 bridg yet appeare. 
 
 We were now got to Mons Testseceus, an heape of potshards almost 
 200 foote high, thought to have ben amassed and thrown there by the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 135 
 
 subjects of the Commonwealth bringing their tribute in earthen ves- 
 sells, others (more probably) that it was a quarter of the towne where 
 potters lived ; at the sum'it Rome affords a noble prospect. Before it 
 is a spacious greene called the Hippodrom, where Olympic games were 
 celebrated, and the people muster'd as in our London Artillerie-ground. 
 Going hence to the old wall of the Citty, we much admir'd the pyramid 
 or tomb of C. Cestius, of white marble, one of the most ancient intire 
 monuments, inserted in the wall, with this inscription : " C. Cestius 
 L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr.pl. VII. Vir. Epulonum." 
 And a little beneath : 
 
 " Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti 
 P. F. Cla. Melae Heredis et Pothi L." 
 
 At the left hand is the Port of St. Caule, once Tergemina, out of 
 which the 3 Horatiipass'd to encounter the Curiatii of Albano. Henee 
 bending homewards by St. Saba, by Antoninus's Bathes (which we 
 enter'd) is the marble Sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the 
 walls and stately mines shew the enormous magnitude of these Bathes. 
 Passing by a corner of the Circus Maximus, we view'd the place where 
 stood the Septizonium, demolish'd by Sixtus V. for feare of its falling. 
 Going by M. Ccelius we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in Navicula, 
 so nam'd from a ship carv'd out in white marble standing on a pedestal 
 before it, suppos'd to be the vowe of one escaped from shipwreck. It 
 has a glorious front to the streete. Adjoining to this are the Horti 
 Mathcei, which only of all the places about the Citty I omitted visiting, 
 tho' I was told inferiour to no garden in Rome for statues, ancient mo- 
 numents, aviaries, fountaines, groves, and especialy a noble obelisq, 
 and maintain'd in beauty at the expense of 6000 crownes yearely, which 
 if not expended to keepe up its beauty forfeits the possession of a 
 greater revenue to another family ; so curious are they in their villas 
 and places of pleasure, even to excesse. 
 
 The next day we went to the once famous Circus Caracalla, in the 
 midst of which there now lay prostrate one of the most stately and an- 
 cient Obelisks, fuU of ./Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was broken into 4 
 pieces when o'rethrowne by the Barbarians, and would have ben pur- 
 chas'd and transported into England by the magnificent Thomas Earle 
 of Arundel, could it have ben well removed to the sea. This is since 
 set together and placed on the stupenduous artificial rock made by 
 Innocent X. and serving for a fountaine in Piazza Navona, the worke of 
 Bernini, the Pope's Architect. Neere this is the Sepulchre of Metellus, 
 of massy stone, pretty entire, now cal'd Capo di Bove. Hence to a 
 small Oratorie nam'd Domine quo vadis, where the tradition is, that 
 our B. Saviour met St. Peter as he fled, and turne'd him back againe. 
 
 St. Sebastians was the next, a meane structure (the faciata excepted) 
 but is venerable especialy for the reliques and grolts in which lie the 
 ashes of many holy men. Here is kept the pontificial chaire sprinkled 
 
136 ACADEMY OF THE HUMORISTS. WASHING OF PILGRIM'S FEET. 
 
 with the blood of Pope Stephen, to which greate devotion is paid ; also 
 a wellfullof Martyres bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebastian, with 
 one of the arrowes [used in shooting him] ; these are preserved by the 
 Fulgentine Monks, who have here their Monasterie, and who led us 
 down into a grotto which they affirm'd went divers furlongs under 
 ground ; the sides or walls which we passed were fill'd with bones and 
 dead bodies, laid as it were on shelfes, whereof some were shut up 
 with broad stones, and now and then a crosse or a palme cut in them. 
 At the end of some of these subterranean passages were square roomes 
 with altars in them, said to have ben the receptacles of primitive Chris- 
 tians in the times of persecution, nor seems it improbable. 
 
 17 Feb. I was invited after dinner to the Academic of the Humorists 
 kept in a spacious hall belonging to Signer Mancini, where the Witts of 
 the towne meete on certaine daies to recite poems, and debate on severall 
 subjects. The first that speakes is cal'd the Lord, and stands in an 
 eminent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi recite in order. By 
 these ingenious exercises, besides the learn'd discourses, is the purity 
 of the Italian tongue daily improv'd. The roome is hung round with 
 devises or emblemes, with mottos under them. There are severall other 
 Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical titles. In this of the 
 Humorists is the picture of Guarini, the famous author of the Pastor 
 Fido, once of this society. The cheife part of the day we spent in hear- 
 ing the academic exercises. 
 
 18 Feb. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere ; it has a faire front, 
 and within are parts of the bodys of St. Mark and Marcellino ; on the 
 Tribuna is a painting of Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval Baglioni, 
 with some other rare paintings. Coming round from hence we passed 
 by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now totaly in ruines. In 
 the afternoon we visited the English Jesuites, with whose Superior, P. 
 Stafford, I was well acquainted ; who received us courteously. They 
 call their Church and College .5"/. Thomasso de gli IngleH, and is a 
 Seminarie. Amongst other trifles they shew the relicq of Beckett, their 
 reputed Martyr. Of paintings there is one of Durante, and many repre- 
 senting the sufferings of .'everall of their society executed in England, 
 especialy F. Champion. 
 
 In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita I had seen the feete 
 of many pilgrims wash'd by Princes, Cardinals, and Noble Romans 
 and serv'd at table, as the Ladys and Noble Women did to other poore 
 creatures in another roome 'Twas told us that no lesse than 444,000 
 men had ben thus treated in the Jubilee of 1,600 and 25,500 women, as 
 appeares by the register, which brings store of money. 
 
 Returning homeward I saw the Palace of Cardinal Spada, where is 
 a most magnificent hall painted by Daniel da Volterra and Giulio Pia- 
 centino, who made fhe fret in the little Court ; but the rare perspectives 
 are of Bolognesi. Neere this is the Monte Pieta, instituted as a Bank 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. I37 
 
 for the Poore, who, if the sum be not greate, may have mony upon 
 pawns, &c. To this joynes St. Martino, to which belongs a Schola 01 
 Corporation that do many works of charity. Hence we came through 
 Campo di Fiori, or Herb Market, in the midst of which is a fountaine 
 casting water out of a dolphin in coper ; and in this Piazza is common 
 execution don. i 
 
 I went this afternoone to visite my Lord John Somerset, brother to 
 the Marques of Worcester, who had his appartment in Palazzo deUa 
 Cancellaria, belonging to Cardinal Francesco Barberini as Vice-chan- 
 celor of the Church of Rome and Protector of the English. The build- 
 ing is of the famous architect Bramante, of incrusted marble, with 4 
 ranks of noble lights ; the principal enterance is of Fontana's designe, 
 and all of marble ; the portico within sustain'd by massie columns ; 
 on the second peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by 
 Salviati and Vasari ; and so ample is this Palace that six Princes 
 with their families have ben receiv'd in it at one time, without incommod- 
 ing each other. 
 
 20 Feb. I went (as was my usual costome) and spent an afternoone 
 in Piazza Navona, as well to see what antiquities I could purchase 
 among the people who hold mercat there for medaills, pictures, and 
 such curiosities, as to heare the Montebanks prate and distribute their 
 medicines. This was formerly the Circus or Agonales, dedicated to 
 sports and pastimes, and is now the greatest mercat of the Citty, having 
 three most noble fountaines, and the stately Palaces of the Pamfilij, St 
 Giacomo de Spagnoli belonging to that nation, to which add two Con- 
 vents for Friers and Nuns, all Spanish. In this Church was erected a 
 most stately Catafalco, or Capella ardente. for the death of the Oueene 
 of Spaine ; the Church was nnng with black, and heare I heard a 
 Spanish sermon or funebral oration, and observed the statues, devises, 
 and impreses hung about the walls, the Church and Pyramid stuck 
 with thousands of lights and tapers, which made a glorious shew. The 
 statue of St. James is by Sansovino ; there are also some good pictures 
 of Caracci. The facciata too is faire. Returning home I pass'd by the 
 stumps of old Pas_C|uin at the comer of a streete call'd Strada Pontificia; 
 here they still past up their drolling lampoons and scurrilous papers. 
 This had formerly ben one of the best statues for workmanship and art 1 
 in all the Citty, as the remaining bust does still shew. 
 
 21 Feb. I walked in the morning up the hill towards the Capuchins, 
 where was then Cardinal Onufrio (brother to the late Pope Urban 
 VIII.) of the same order. He built them a pretty Church, full of rare 
 pictures, and there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still does 
 miracles. The piece at the great altar is by Lanfranc. 'Tis a lofty 
 edifice, with a beautifull avenue of trees, and in a good aire. After 
 dinner passing along the Strada del Carso, I observed the column of 
 Antoninus, passing under Arco Portugallo, which is but a relic, hereto- 
 
138 THE PANTHEON, AKCIENT MAGNIFICENCE AND PRESENT 3TATE„ 
 
 fore erected in honor of Domitian, cal'd now Portugallo from a Cardinal 
 living neere it. A little turther on the right hand stands the column, 
 in a small piazza, heretofore set up in honor of M. Aurelius Antoninus, 
 comprehending in a basse-rehevo of white marble his hostil acts against 
 the Parthians, Armenians, Germans, &c. but it is now somewhat decay'd. 
 On the su'mit has been placed the image of St. Paule of gilded coper. 
 The pillar is said to be 161 foote high, ascended by 207 steps, receiving 
 light by 56 apertures, without defacing the sculpture. 
 
 At a little distance are the relicques of the Emperors Palace, the heads 
 of whose pillars shew them to have ben Corinthian. 
 
 Turning a little down we came to another piazza, in which stands a 
 sumptuous vase of porphyrie, and a faire fountaine ; but the grace of 
 this merket, and indeede the admiration of the whole world, is the 
 Pantheon, now called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the 
 Gods, and still remaining the most entire antiquitie of the Citty. It was 
 built by Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the architrave of the portico sus- 
 tain'd by 13 pillars of Theban marble, 6 foote thick and 53 in height, of 
 one intire stone. In this porch is an old inscription. 
 
 Entring the Church we admire the fabric, wholly cover'd with one 
 cupola, seemingly suspended in the aire, and receiving light by a hole 
 in the middle onely. The structure is neere as high as broad, viz. 144 
 foote, not counting the thicknesse of the walls, which is 22 more to the 
 top, all of white marble, and til Urban VIII. converted part of the 
 metall into ordnance to warr against the Duke of Parma, and part to 
 make the high altar in St. Peters, it was all over cover'd with Corinthian 
 brasse, ascending by 40 degrees within the roof or convex of the cupola, 
 richly carved with octagons in the stone. There are niches in the walls, 
 in which stood heretofore the statues of Jupiter and the other Gods and 
 Goddesses ; for here was that Venus which had hung in her ear the 
 other Union, that Cleopatra was about to dissolve and drink up as she 
 had done its fellow. There are severall of these niches one above 
 another for the celestial, terrestrial, and subterranean deities, but the 
 place is now converted into a Church dedicated to the B. Virgin and 
 all the Saints. The pavement is excellent, and the vast folding gates 
 of Corinthian brasse. Inaword,'tis of all the Roman antiquities the most 
 worthy of notice. There lie interr'd in this Temple the famous Raphae' 
 da Urbino, Perino del Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters. 
 
 " And in the cup an union shall he throw 
 Richer than that which four successive kings 
 In Denmark's crown have worn. 
 
 Shakespeare, Hamlet, Act V. Sc. 2 : ed. Johnson and Steevens. 
 Theobald says, an union is the finest sort of pearl, and has its place in all crowns and 
 coronets. Steevens cites from Soliman and Perseda — ' Ay, were it Cleopatra's union' — add- 
 ing the following elucidation of the term from P. Holland's Translation of PHny's Natural 
 History : 'And hereupon it is that our dainties and delicates here at Rome, Ac. call them 
 unioTis, as a man would say singu^rand by themselves alone.* EDIT. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. I39 
 
 Returning home we passe by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, a noble piece 
 of architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, which is the grace of the 
 whole Corso. 
 
 22 Feb. I went to Trinita del Monte, a monasterie of French, a noble 
 Church built by Lewis XL and Charles VIII. the Chapells well painted, 
 especialy that by Zuccari, Volterra, and the cloyster with the miracles 
 of their St. Francis di Paulo and the heads of the French Kings. In 
 the pergolo above, the walls are wrought with excellent perspective, 
 especialy the St. John ; there are the Babylonish dials invented by 
 Kircher the Jesuite. This Convent so eminently situated on Mons 
 Pincius, has the intire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a faire 
 garden which joynes to the Palazzo di Medici. 
 
 23rd. I went to heare a sermon at St. Giacomo de gli Incurabili, a 
 faire Church built by F. Volaterra, of good architecture, and so is the 
 Hospital, where only desperate patients are brought. I pass'd the 
 evening at St. Maria del Copolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre, where his 
 ashes lay many yeares in a marble chest. To this Church joynes the 
 Monasterie of St. Augustine, which has pretty gardens on Mons Cin- 
 cius, and in the Church is the miraculous shrine of the Madona which 
 Pope Paul III. brought barefooted to the place, supplicating for a vic- 
 tory over the Turks in 1464. In a Chapell of the Ghisi are some rare 
 paintings of Raphael and noble sculptures. Those two in the Choire 
 are by Sansovino, and in the Chapel de Cerasii a piece of Caravaggio. 
 Here lie buried many greate scholars and artists, of which I tooke 
 notice of this inscription : 
 
 Hospes, disce novum mortis genus ; improba feUs, 
 Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo. 
 
 Opposite to the faciata of the Church is a superb obelise full of hiero- 
 glyphics, the same that Sennesertus K. of Egypt dedicated to the Sun, 
 brought to Rome by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and 
 since placed here by Pope Sixtus V. It is 88 foote high, of one intire 
 stone, and placed with greate art and engines by the famous Domenico 
 Fontana. 
 
 Hence turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo, we came to 
 Justinian's gardens neere the Muro torto, so prominently built as threat- 
 ning every moment to fall, yet standing so for these thousand yeares. 
 Under this is the burying-place for the com'on prostitutes, where they 
 are put into the ground sans ceremonie. 
 
 24 Feb. We walked to St. Roches and Martines neere the brink of 
 the Tyber, a large Hospital for both sexes. Hence to the Mausoleum 
 Augusti 'twixt the Tyber and the Via Flaminia, now much ruin'd, which 
 had formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It was intended 
 as a cemeterie for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports, and was 
 cover'd with a cupola of white marble, inviron'd with stately trees and 
 innumerable statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We pass'd 
 
 f- 
 
140 BAPTISM OF A JEW AND TURK. THE PILLAR OF TRAJAH. 
 
 the aftemoone at the sapienza, a very stately building full of good mar- 
 bles, especialy the Portico, of admirable architecture. These are 
 properly the Universitie Scholes, where lectures are read on law, 
 medicine, and anatomie, and students perform their exercises. 
 
 Hence we walk'd to St. Andrea della Valle neere the former Theater 
 of Pompey, and the famous Piccolomini, but given to this Church ana 
 the Order who are Theatines. The Barberini have in this place a 
 Chapell, of curious incrusted marbles of severall sorts, and rare paint- 
 ings. Under it is the place where St. Sebastian is said to have been 
 beaten with rods before he was shot with darts. The cupola is paynted 
 by Lanfranc, an inestimable work, and the whole fabric and Monastery 
 adjoining are admirable. 
 
 25 Feb. I was invited by a Dominican Frier, whom we usually 
 heard preach to a number of Jewes, to be god-father to a converted 
 Turk and Jew. The ceremonie was perform'd in the Church of Santa 
 Maria sopra la Minerva, neere the Capitol. They were clad in white, 
 then exorcis'd at their entering the Church with aboundance of cere- 
 monies, and when led into the Choir were baptiz'd by a Bishop in 
 pontijicalibus. The Turk lived afterwards in Rome, sold hot waters, 
 and would bring us presents when he met us, kneeling and kissing the 
 hems of our cloaks ; but the Jew was believ'd to be a counterfeit. 
 This Church, situate on a spacious rising, was formerly consecrated to 
 Minerva. 'Tis well built and richly adorn'd, and the body of St. 
 Catherine di Sienna lies buried here. The paintings of the Chapel are 
 by Marcello Venuti ; the Madona over the altar is by Giov. di Fiesole, 
 cal'd the Angelic Painter, who was of the Order of these Monks. 
 There are many charities dealt publiqly here, especialy at the Proces- 
 sion on the Annunciation, when I saw his Holinesse, with all the Car- 
 dinals, Prelates, &c. in ^pontificalibus s dowries being given to 300 
 poore girls all clad in white. The Pope had his tiara on his head, and 
 was carried on mens shoulders in an open arm-chaire, blessing the 
 people as he pass'd. The statue of Christ at the Columna is esteem'd 
 one of the master-pieces of M. Angelo : innumerable are the paintings 
 by the best artists, and the organ is accounted oae of the sweetest in 
 Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We return'd by St. Marcs, 
 a stately Church, with an excellent pavement, and a fine piece by Peru- 
 gino, of the two Martyrs. Adjoyning to this is a noble Palace built by 
 the famous Bramanti. 
 
 26 Feb. Ascending the hill we came to the Forum Trajanum, where 
 his column stands yet intire, wrought with admirable bass-relievo re- 
 cording the Dacian war, the figures at the upper part appearing of the 
 same proportion with those below. 'Tis ascended by 192 steps, en- 
 lightened with 44 apertures or windows, artificialy dispos'd ; in height 
 from the pedestal 140 foote. 
 
 It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where now stands 
 
THE DIARY OF J0>1N EVELYN. I4I 
 
 St. Peter's of gilt brasse, erected by Pope Sixtus V. The sculpture of 
 this stupendious pillar is thought to be the work of ApoUodorus ; but 
 what is very observable is the descent to the plinth of the pedestale, 
 shewing how this ancient Cittie lies now buried in her mines, this 
 monument being at first set up on a rising ground. After dinner we 
 took the aire in Cardinal Bentivoglio's delicious gardens, now but 
 newly deceas'd. He had a faire Palace built by several good masters 
 on part of the ruines of Constantine's Bathes : well adorn'd with 
 columns and paintings, especialy those of Guido Rheni. 
 
 27 Feb. In the morning Mr. Henshaw and my selfe walked to the 
 Trophies of Marius, erected in honour of his victorie over the Cim- 
 brians, but these now taken out of their niches are plac'd on the balusters 
 of the Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruine. Keeping 
 on our way we came to St. Crosse of Jerusalem, built by Constantine 
 over the demolition of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which he 
 threw down ; and 'twas here they report he deposited the wood of the 
 true Crosse found by his mother Helena in honour whereof this Church 
 was built, and in memory of his victory over Maxentius when that 
 holy signe appear'd to him. The edifice without is Gotiq, but very]] 
 glorious within, especialy the roofe, and one tribune well painted.!' 
 Here is a Chapel dedicated to St. Helena, the floore whereoffis of earth 
 brought from Jerusalem ; the walls are of faire Mosaic, in which they 
 suffer no women to enter it save once a yeare. Under the high altar 
 of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in Lydian marble, and Bene- 
 dict VII. and they shew a number of reliques, expos'd at our request, 
 with a phial of our B. Saviour's blood ; two thornes of his Crowne ; 
 three chips of the real Crosse ; one of the nailes, wanting a point ; St. 
 Thomas's doubting finger ; and a fragment of the title [put on the 
 Cross], being part of a thin board ; some of Judas's pieces of silver, 
 and many more, if one had faith to believe it. To this venerable 
 Church joynes a Monasterie, the gardens taking up the space of an 
 ancient amphitheater. Hence we pass'd beyond the walls out at the 
 Port of St. Laurence to that Saint's Church, and where his ashes are 
 enshrin'd. This was also built by the same great Constantine, famous 
 for the Coronation of Pietro Altisiodorensis, Emperor of Constantino- 
 ple, by Honorius the Second. 'Tis sayd the corps of St. Stephen the 
 protomartyr was deposited here by that of St. Sebastian, which it had 
 no sooner touch'd but Sebastian gave it place of its own accord. The 
 Church has no less than 7 privileg'd altars and excellent pictures. 
 About the walls are painted this martyr's sufferings, and when they 
 built them, the bones of divers Saints were translated to other Churches. 
 The front is Gotic. In our return we saw a small ruine of an aqua- 
 duct built by Q. Marcius the prator ; and so pass'd thro' that incom- 
 parable strait streete leading to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, 
 sufficiently tired. 
 
142 THE CARNIVAL AT ROME. BLESSING THE GOLDEN ROSES. 
 
 We were taken up next morning in seeing the impertinences of the 
 Carnival, when all the world are as mad at Rome as at other places ; 
 but the most remarkable were the 3 races of the Barbaric horses, that 
 run in the Strada del Corso without riders, onely having spurrs so 
 placed on their backs, and hanging downe by their sides, as by their 
 motion to stimulate them ; then of mares, then of asses, of buffalos, 
 naked men, old and young, and boys, and aboundance of idle ridicu- 
 lous passetime. One thing is remarkable, their acting comedies on a 
 stage placed on a cart, ox plaustrum, where the scene or tinng-place is 
 made of boughs in a rural manner, which they drive from streete to 
 streete with a yoake or two of oxen, after the ancient guise. The 
 streetes swarm with prostitutes, buffoones, and all man'er of rabble. 
 
 I March. At the Greke Church we saw the Eastern ceremonies per- 
 form'd by a Bishop, &c. in that tongue. Here the unfortunate Duke 
 and Dutchess of Bullion received their ashes, it being the first day of 
 Lent ; there was now as much trudging up and downe of devotees as 
 the day before of licentious people, all Saints alike to appearance. 
 
 The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of sta- 
 tues and antiquities, especialy urnes, amongst which is that of Min. 
 Felix; a Terminus that formerly stood in the Appian Way, and a huge 
 colosse ot the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviarie on the 
 hill ; the whole gardens furnish'd with rare collections, fresh, shady, 
 and adom'd with noble fountaines. Continuing our walke a mile far- 
 ther, we came to Pons Milvius, now Mela, where Constantine over- 
 threw Maxentius, and saw the miraculous signe of the Cross, " in hoc 
 signo vinces." It was a sweete morning, and the bushes were full of 
 nightingals. Hence to Aqua Claudia againe, an aqueduct finish'd by 
 that Emperor at the expense of 8 millions. In the afternoone to Far- 
 neze's gardens, neere the Campo Vaccino ; and upon the Palatine 
 Mount to survey the mines of Juno's Temple in the Piscina, a Piazza 
 so call'd neere the famous bridg built by Antoninus Pius and re-edified 
 by Pope Sixtus IV. 
 
 The rest of this weeke we went to the Vatican, to heare the sermons 
 at St. Peter's of the most famous preachers, who discourse on the same 
 subjects and texts yearely, full of Italian eloquence and action. On our 
 Lady-day, 25 March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp to 
 the Minerva, the greate guns of the Castle St. Angelo being fired, when 
 he gives portions to 500 zitelle [young women], who kisse his feete in 
 procession, some destin'd to marry, some to be nunns. The scholars of 
 the Colledge celebrating the B. Virgin with their compositions. The 
 next day his Holinesse was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent 
 to severall greate Princes ; the Procurator of the Carmelites preaching 
 on our Savior's feeding the multitude with 5 loaves, the ceremony ends. 
 The Sacrament being this day expos'd and the reliques ol the Holy 
 Crosse, the concourse about the streetes is extraordinarie. On Palm 
 Sunday there was a greate procession after a papal masse. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELY?.. I43 
 
 II April. St. Veronica's handkercheif [with the impressi'on of our 
 Saviour's face] was expos'd, and the next diy the speare, with a world 
 ot ceremonie. On Holy Thursday the Pope said masse, and afterwardl 
 carried the Host in procession about the Chapell, with an infinitie of 
 tapers ; this finish'd, his Holinesse was carried in his open chaire on 
 men's shoulders to the place where, reading the Bull in Ccena Domini, 
 he both curses and blesses all in a breath ; then the guns are againe 
 fired. Hence he went to the Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he 
 wash'd the feete of 12 poore men, with almost the same ceremonie 
 as 'tis don at Whitehall ; they have clothes, a dinner, and almes, which 
 he gives with his owne hands, and serves at their table ; they have also 
 gold and silver medailles, but their garments are of white woUen long 
 robes, as we paint the Apostles. The same ceremonies are don by the 
 Conservators and other Officers of State at St. John de Lateran ; and 
 now the table on which they say our Blessed Lord celebrated his last 
 supper, is set out, and the heads of the Apostles. In every famous 
 Church they are busy in dressing up their pageantries to represent the 
 Holy Sepulchre, of which we went to visite divers. 
 
 On Good Friday we went againe to St. Peter's, where the Handker- 
 chief, Launce, and Crosse were all expos'd and worshipp'd together. 
 All the confession-seates were filled with devout people, and at night 
 was a procession of several who most lamentably whipped themselves 
 till the blood stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others upon the 
 bare back, having vizors and masks on their faces ; at every 3 or 4 steps 
 dashing the knotted and ravelled whipcord over their shoulders, as hard 
 as they could lay it on, whilst some of the religious orders and fraterni- 
 ties sung in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going before, making 
 altogether a horrible and indeede heathenish pompe. 
 
 The next day there was much ceremony at St. John de Literan, so ' 
 as the whole weeke was spent in running from Church to ChurCh, all the | 
 fowne in buisy devotion, greate silence, and unimaginable superstition \ 
 
 Easter-day I was awaken'd by the guns from St. Angelo : we went to 
 St. Peter's, where the Pope himselfe celebrated masse, shew'd the 
 reliques before named, and gave a publiq benediction. 
 
 Monday we went to heare music in the Chiesa Nova, and tho' there 
 were aboundance of ceremonies at the other greate Churches, and greate 
 exposure of reliques, yet being wearied with sights of this nature, and 
 the season of the yeare, summer, at Rome being very dangerous by 
 reason of the heates, minding us of returning Northwards, we spent the 
 rest of our time in visiting such places as we had not yet sufficiently 
 scene ; onely I do not forget the Pope's benediction of the Con/alone, 
 or Standard, and giving the hallowed palmes ; and on May-day the 
 greate procession of the Universitie and the'Mulatiers at St. Antonie's, 
 and their setting up a foolish May-pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. 
 We therefore now tooke coach a little out of towne, to visite the famous 
 
144 EXPLORE THE CATACOMBS. TOURNAMENT AT ROME. 
 
 Roma soterranea, being much like what we had seen at St. Sebastian's. 
 Here in a cornfield, guided by two torches, we crept on our bellies into 
 a little hole, about 20 paces, which delivered us into a large entrie that 
 led us into several streetes or allies, a good depth in the bowells of the 
 earth, a strange and fearefull passage for divers miles, as Bosio has 
 measured and described them in his book.' We ever and anon came 
 into pretty square roomes, that seem'd to be Chapells with altars, and 
 some adorn'd with very ordinary ancient painting. Many skeletons 
 and bodies are plac'd on the sides one above the other in degrees like 
 shelves, whereof some are shut up with a coarse flat stone, having 
 ingraven on them Pro Christo, or a Cross and Palmes, which are sup- 
 posed to have been martyrs. Here, in all likely hood, were the meet- 
 ings of the primitive Christians during the persecutions, as Pliny the 
 younger describes them. As I was prying about, I found a glasse 
 phiale, fill'd as was conjectur'd with dried blood, and 2 lachrymatories. 
 Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there appear'd nothing else) 
 lay so intire as if plac'd by the art of the chirurgeon, but being only 
 touched fell all to dust. Thus after wandering two or three miles in 
 this subterranean meander, we retum'd almost blind when we came 
 into the day-light, and even choked by the smoake of the torches. It 
 is said that a French Bishop and his retinue adventuring too far in these 
 denns, their lights going out, were never heard of more. 
 
 We were entertain'd at night with an English play at the Jesuites, 
 where we before had dined ; and the next at Prince Galicano's who 
 himself composed the musiq to a magnificent opera, where were present 
 Cardinal Pamphilio the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, the 
 Cardinals, ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility and strangers. 
 There had been in the morning a Just and Tournament of severall 
 young gentlemen on a formal defy, to which we had been invited ; the 
 prizes being distributed by the ladies after the knight-errantry way. 
 The launcers and swordsmen running at tilt against the barriers, with 
 a greate deale of clatter, but without any bloodshed, giving much 
 diversion to the spectators, and was new to us travellers. 
 
 The next day Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning in attending 
 the entrance and cavalcade of Card. Medici, the Ambassador from the 
 Grand Duke of Florence, by the Via Flaminia. After dinner we went 
 again to see the Villa Borghesi, about a mile without the Cittie ; the 
 garden is rather a park or paradise, contriv'd and planted with walkes 
 and shades of myrtils, cypresse and other trees and groves, with 
 aboundance of fountaines, statues, and bass-relievos, and several pretty 
 murmuring rivulets. Here they had hung large netts to catch wood- 
 cocks. There was also a Vivarie, where amongst other exotic fowles 
 was an ostridge ; besides a most capacious aviarie ; and in another in- 
 closed part, an herd of deere. Before the palace (which might become 
 
 1 Intituled Roma SotteraTiea, folio, Rom. 1632. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 145 
 
 the courte of a great prince) stands a noble fountaine of white marbi- 
 mrich'd with statues. The outer walls of the house are incrusted wibi 
 excellent antique basse-relievos of the same marble, incornish'd witli 
 festoons and niches set with statues from the foundation to the roofe. 
 A stately Portico joynes the palace, full of statues and columnes of mar- 
 ble, umes and other curiosities of sculpture. In the first hall were the 
 12 Caesars of antiq marble, and the whole apartments furnish'd with 
 pictures of the most celebrated masters, and two rare tables of porphy • 
 rie of greate value. I often visited this delicious place. 
 
 This night were glorious fire-works at the palace of Card. Medici \ 
 before the gate, and lights of severall colours all about the windows < 
 through the Cittie, which they contrive by setting the candles in little 
 paper lanterns died with various colours, placing hundreds of them 
 from storie to storie, which renders a gallant shew. 
 
 4 May. ^ Having seen the entrie of the Ambassador of Lucca, I went 
 to the Vatican, where, by favour of our Cardinal Protector, Fran. Bar- 
 berini, I was admitted into the Consistorie, heard the Ambassador 
 make his oration in Latine to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state or 
 throne, and changing two pontifical miters ; after which I was presented 
 to kisse his toe, that is, his embroider'd slipper, two Cardinals holding 
 up his vest and surplice, and then being sufficiently bless'd with his 
 thumb and two fingers for that day, I retum'd home to dinner. 
 
 We went againe to see the medails of Signor Gotefredi, which are 
 absolutely the best "ollection in Rome. 
 
 Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human figure lies, 
 found on the snowy Alps ; I measured the Hidra, and found it not 
 a foot long ; the three necks and 15 heads seeme to be but patch'd up 
 with several pieces of serpents skins. 
 
 5 May. We tooke coach, and went 15 miles out of the Cittie to 
 Frascati, formerly Tusculanum, a villa of Cardinal Aldobrandini, built 
 for a country-house, but surpassing, in my opinion, the most delicious 
 places I ever beheld for its situation, elegance, plentifull water, groves, 
 ascents, and prospects. Just behind the palace (which is of excellent 
 architecture) in the center of the inclosure rises an high hill or moun- 
 taine all over clad with tall wood, and so form'd by nature as if it had 
 been cut out by art, from the sum'it whereof falls a cascade, seeming 
 rathei a greate river than a streame precipitating into a large theatre 
 of water, representing an exact and perfect rainebow when the sun 
 shines out. Under this is made an artificial! grott, wherein are curious 
 rocks, hydriiulic organs, and all sorts of singing birds moving and 
 chirping by force of the water, with severall other pageants and sur- 
 prising inventions. In the center of one of these roomes rises a coper 
 ball that continually daunces about 3 foote above the pavement by 
 virtue of a wind conveyed secretely to a hole beneath it ; with mar.y 
 other devices to wett the unwary spectators, so that one can ha»d!y 
 
 10 
 
14-6 FRASCATI; MONTDRAGONE; TIVOLI ; PALACE D'ESTE. 
 
 Step without wetting to the skin. In one of these theaters of water is 
 an Atlas spouting up the streame to a very great height ; and another 
 monster makes a terrible roaring with an horn ; but above all, the re- 
 presentation of a storm is most naturall, with such fury of raine, wind, 
 and thunder, as one would imagine ones self in some extreame tempest. 
 The garden has excellent walkes and shady groves, abundance of rare 
 fruit, oranges, lemons, &c. and the goodly prospect of Rome, above all 
 description, so as I do not wonder that Cicero and others have celebrated 
 this place with such encomiums. The palace is indeed built more like 
 a cabinet than any thing compos'd of stone and mortar ; it has in the 
 middle a hall furnish'd with excellent marbles and rare pictures, espe- 
 cially those of Gioseppi d'Arpino ; tjiempveables are princely and rich. 
 This was the last piece of architecture finish'd by Giacomo de la Porta, whc 
 built it for Pietro Card. Aldobrandini in the time of Clement VIII.' 
 
 We went hence to another house and garden not far distant, on the 
 side of a hill called Montdragone, finish'd by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, 
 an ample and kingly edifice. It has a very long galerie, and at the end 
 a theater for pastimes, spacious courts, rare grotts, vineyards, olive 
 grounds, groves, and solitudes. The aire is so fresh and sweete, as 
 few parts of Italy exceed it ; nor is it inferior to any palace in the cittie 
 itselfe for statues, pictures, and furniture ; but it growing late we could 
 not take such particular notice of these things as they deserv'd. 
 
 6 May. We rested ourselves ; and next day in a coach tooke our 
 last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places, going to Tivoli or the 
 old Tyburtine. At about 6 miles from Rome we passe the Teverone, 
 a bridge built by Mammea the mother of Severus, and so by divers 
 ancient sepulchres, amongst others that of Valerius Volusi ; and neere 
 it passe the stinking sulphurous river over the Ponte Lucano, where we 
 found an heape or turret full of inscriptions, now call'd the Tomb 
 of Plautius. Arriv'd at Tivoli we went first to see the Palace d'Estfi 
 erected on a plaine, but where was formerly an hill. The palace is very 
 ample and stately. In the garden on the right hand are i6 vast 
 conchas of marble jetting out waters ; in the midst of these stands a 
 Janus quadrifrons, that cast forth 4 girandolas, call'd from the resem- 
 blance [to a particular exhibition in fireworks so named] the Fontana 
 di Speccho [looking-glass.] Neere this is a place for tilting. Before 
 the ascent of the palace is the famous fountaine of Leda, and not far 
 from that 4 sweete and delicious gardens. Descending thence are two 
 pyramids of water, and in a grove of trees neere it the fountaines of 
 Tethys, Esculapius, Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora ; then the 
 prancing Pegasus, Bacchus, the Grott of Venus, the two Colosses of 
 Melicerta, and Sibylla Tibertina, all of exquisite marble, coper, and 
 other suitable adornements. The Cupids pouring out water are espe- 
 
 1 Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in January 1592 by the name of Cle- 
 ment YIII. and died in March 1605. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 1 47 
 
 cialy most rare, and the umes on which are plac'd the 10 nymphs. The 
 Grotts are richly pav'd with Pietra Commessa, shells, coraU, &c 
 
 Towards Roma Triumphans leades a long and spacious wal^c, full of 
 fountaines, under which is historized the whole Ovidian Metamorphosis 
 in rarely sculptur'd mezzo relievo. At the end of this, next th-e wall, is 
 the Cittie of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing 
 that Cittie, with its Amphitheaters, Naumachia, Thermae, Temples, 
 Arches, Aqueducts, Streetes, and other magnificences, with a little 
 streame running thro' it for the Tyber, gushing out of an urne next the 
 statue of the river. In another garden is a noble aviarie, the birds arti- 
 ficial, and singing till an owle appeares, on which they suddainly change 
 their notes. Near this is the fountaine of Dragons casting out large 
 streames of water with great noises. In another Grotto called Grotto 
 di Natura, is an hydraulic organ ; and below this are divers stews and 
 fish-pounds, in one of which is the statue of Neptune in his chariot on 
 a sea-horse, in another a Triton ; and lastly a garden of simples. There 
 are besides in the palace many rare statues and pictures, bedsteds richly 
 inlaied, and sundry other precious moveables ; the whole is said to have 
 cost the best part of a million. Having gratified our curiositie with 
 these artificial miracles, and din'd, we went to see the so famous natural 
 precipice and cascade of the river Anio, rushing down from the moun- 
 taines of Tivoli, with that furjr that, what with the mist it perpetualy 
 casts up by the breaking of the water against the rocks, and what with 
 the sun shining on it and forming a natural Iris, the prodigious depth 
 of the gulph below, it is enough to astonish one that lookes on it. Upon 
 the sum'ite of this rock stand the ruines and some pillars and cornishes 
 of the temple of Sibylla Tybertina, or Albunea, a round fabric, still dis- 
 covering some of its pristine beauty. Here was agreate deal of gunpowder 
 drying in the sun, and a little beneath, mills belonging to the Pope. 
 
 And now we returned to Rome. By the way we were shew'd at some 
 distance the citty Praeneste, and the Hadrian Villa, now onely an heape 
 of ruines, and so came late to our lodging. 
 
 We now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, ex- 
 cept what should happen to come in our way when my companion 
 Mr. Henshaw and myself should go to take the aire : onely I may not 
 omit that one afternoone, diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a 
 Montebanke there to allure curious strangers, taking off a ring from 
 his finger, which seemed set with a dull, darke stone, a little swelling 
 out, like what we call (tho' untruly) a loadstone, and wetting his finger a 
 little in his mouth and then touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as 
 bright and large as a small wax candle ; then blowing it out, he re- 
 peated this several times. I have much regretted that I did not pur- 
 chase the receipt of him for making that composition at what price 
 soever ; for tho' there is a processe in Jo. Baptista Porta and others 
 how to do it, yet on several] trials none of them have succeeded- 
 
148 RESUME OF OBSERVATIONS ON MATTERS CONCERNING ROME. 
 
 Amongst other observations I made in Rome are these : As to Coins 
 and Medails, 10 Asses make the Roman Denarius, 5 the Quinarius, 
 10 Detiarii an Aureus; which accompt runs almost exactly with what 
 is now in US2 of Quatrini, Baiocs, Jtilios, and Scudi, each exceeding 
 the other in the proportion of ten. The Sesteriitcs was a small silver 
 coyne marked H. S. or rather lls, valu'd 2 pound and half of silver, 
 •viz. 250 Denarii, about 25 golden Ducati. The stamp of the Roman 
 Denarius varied, having sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma 
 armed, or with a chariot and two horses, which were call'd Bigi; if with 
 4, Quadrigij if with a Victoria, so nam'd. The marke of the Denarius 
 was distinguish'd t> J <1 thus, or X ; the Qninarius of halfe value, had 
 on one side the head of Rome and V, the reverse Castor and Pollux 
 on horseback, inscribed Roma, &c. 
 
 I observ'd that in the Greek Church they made the signe of the 
 Crosse from the right hand to the left ; contrary to the Latines 
 and the Schismatic Greekes ; gave the benediction with the first, 
 second, and little finger stretched out, retaining the third bent down, 
 expressing a distance of the third Person of the Holy Trinity from 
 the first two. 
 
 For sculptors and architects we found Bernini and Algardi were in 
 
 the greatest esteeme ; Flamingo as a statuary, who made the Andrea 
 
 in St. Peter's, and is said to have died madd because it was placed in 
 
 an ill light. Amongst the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has 
 
 such an addresse of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient masters so 
 
 well as to make his copies passe for originals ; Pietro de Cortone, Mons. 
 
 Poussine a Frenchman, and innumerable more. Fioravanti for armour, 
 
 plate, dead life, tapistry, &c. The chiefe masters of music, after 
 
 Marc Antonio the best trebble, is Cavalier Lauretto an eunuch ; the 
 
 I next Card. Bichi's eunuch, Bianchi tenor, and Nicholai base. The 
 
 j Jewes in Rome wore red hatts til the Card, of Lions, being short- 
 
 I sighted, lately saluted one of them thinking him to be a Cardinal as 
 
 \ he pass'd by his coach ; on which an order was made that they should 
 
 ' use only the yellow colour. There was now at Rome one Mrs. Ward, 
 
 an English devotee, who much solicited for an Order of Jesuitesses. 
 
 At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hang'd in his cloak and hatt 
 
 I for murder. Thes struck the malefactor with a club that first stunn'd 
 
 j him, and then cut his throat. At Naples they use a frame, like ours at 
 
 Halifax (a guiiiotine). 
 
 It is reported that Rome has ben once no lesse than 50 miles in com- 
 pass, now not 13, containing in it 3000 Churches and ChapeKs, Mo- 
 nasteries, &C. It is divided into 14 Regions or Wards ; has 7 Moun- 
 taines, and as many Campi or Vally's ; in these are faire Parks or 
 Gardens call'd Villas, being onely places of recesse and pleasure, at 
 some distance from the streetes, yet within the walls. 
 The Bills of Exchange I tooke up from my first entering Italy till 1 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 149 
 
 went from Rome amounted but to 616 ducati di Banco, though I pur- 
 chas'd many books, pictures, and curiosities. 
 
 18 May. I intended to have seen Loretto, but being disappointed 
 of monies long expected, I was forc'd to returne by the same way ] 
 came, desiring, if possible, to be at Venice by the Ascension, and 
 therefore I diverted to take Legorne in the way, as well to furnish me 
 with credit by a merchant there, as to take order for transporting such 
 collections as I had made at Rome. When on my way, turning about 
 to behold this once and yet glorious City, from an eminence, I did not 
 without some regret give it my last farewell. 
 
 Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had sojourn'd 
 now about 7 moneths, Autumn, Winter, and Spring, I tooke coach in 
 company with two courteous Italian Gentlemen. In the afternoonewe 
 ariv'd at an house, or rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma, 
 called Caprarola,' situate on the brow of an hill that overlooks a little 
 town, or rather a naturall and stupendous rock ; witnesse those vast 
 caves serving now for cellerage, where we were entertain'd with most 
 generous wine of severall sorts, being just under the foundation. The 
 Palace was built by the famous Architect Vignola at the cost of Card. 
 Alex. Farnese, in forme of an octagone, the court in the middle being 
 exactly round, so as rather to resemble a fort or castle ; yet the cham- 
 bers within are all of them square, which makes the walls exceeding 
 thick. One of these rooms is so artificialy contriv'd that from the two 
 opposite angles one may hear the least whisper ; they say any perfect 
 square dos it. Most of the paintings are by Zuccari. It has a stately 
 entrie, on which spouts an artificial! fountaine within the porch. The 
 hall, chapell, and great number of lodging chambers are remarkable, 
 but most of all the pictures and witty inventions of Hannibal Caracci ; 
 the dead Christ is incomparable. Behind are the gardens full of 
 statues and noble fountaines, especialy that of the Shepherds. After 
 din'er we tooke horse, and lay that night at Montrosso, twentf 
 miles from Rome. 
 
 19 May. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Laurenzo. Next day 
 at Radicofani, and slept at Tumera. 
 
 21. We dined at Sienna, where we could not passe admiring the 
 greate Church built intirely both within and without with white and 
 black marble in pohsh'd squares, by Macarino, shewing so beautiful! 
 after a showre has faU'n. The floore within is of various colour'd mar- 
 bles, representing the storie of both Testaments admirably wrought. 
 Here lies Pius the Second. The BibHothec is painted by P. Perugino 
 and Raphael. The life of ^Eneas Sylvius is in fresco; in the middle 
 are the 3 Graces of antiq marble, very curious, and the front of this 
 building, tho' Gotic, is yet very fine. Amongst other things they shew 
 
 I Caprarola. There is a large descriptive account published of this Palace, with magnificent 
 plates of the buildings, pictures, and statues. 
 
15° P'?^ : LEGHORNE ; LUCCA ; TOMB OF ST. RICHARD. 
 
 St. Catharine's disciplining Cell, the doore whereof is half cut out into 
 chipps by the pilgrimes and devotees, being of deale wood. 
 
 Setting out hence for Pisa, we went againe to see the Domo in which 
 the Emperor Henry VII. lies buried, poyson'd by a Monk in the 
 Eucharist. The bending Tower was built by Busqueto Delichio, a 
 Grecian architect, and is a stupendious piece of art. In the gallery of 
 curiosities is a faire mummy ; the taile of a sea-horse ; corall growing 
 on a man's skull ; a chariot automaton ; two pieces of rock chrystall, 
 in one of which is a drop of water, in the other three or foure sipall 
 wormes ; two embalm'd children ; divers petrifactions, &c. The gar- 
 den of simples is well furnish'd, and has in it the deadly yew or iaxus 
 of the ancients ; which Dr. Bellueccio, the superintendant, affirmes that 
 his workmen cannot endure to clip for above the space of halfe an houre 
 at a time, from the paine of the head which surprizes them. 
 
 We went hence for Ligorne by coach, where I took up 90 crownes 
 for the rest of my journey, with letters of credit for Venice, after I had 
 sufficiently complain'd of my defeate of correspondence at Roma. 
 
 The next day I came to Lucca, a small but pretty territorie and state 
 of itselfe. — The Citty is neate and well fortified, wit}i noble and plea- 
 sant walkes of trees on the workes, where the gentry and ladiee use to 
 take the aire. 'Tis situate on an ample plaine by the rivef Serchio, yet 
 the country about it is hilly. The Senate-house is magnificent. The 
 Church of St. Michael is a noble piece, as is also St. Fredian, more 
 remarkable to us for the corpse of St. Richard, an English King,' who 
 died here in his pilgrimage towards Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb : 
 
 Hie rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus : 
 
 Rex fuit Anglorum, regnum tenet iste polorum. 
 
 Regnum demisit pro Christo cuncta reliquit. 
 
 Ergo Richardum nobis dedit Anglia sanctum. 
 
 Hie genitor Sancts Walburgae Virginis alm3£ 
 
 Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi, 
 
 Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum. 
 Next this we visited St. Crosses, an excellent structure, all of marble 
 both without and within, and so adorn'd as may vie with many of the 
 fairest even in Rome; witness the huge Crosse valued at £1^,000, 
 above all venerable for that sacred volto which (as tradition goes) was 
 miraculously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, 
 whilst the artist, finishing the rest of the body, was meditating what 
 face to set on it. The inhabitants are exceedingly civill to strangers, 
 above all places in Italy, and they speake the purest Italian. 'Tis also 
 cheape li'i'ing, which causes travellers to set up their rest here more 
 ;han in Florence, tho' a more celebrated Citty ; besides, the ladys here 
 are very conversable, and the religious women not at all reserv'd ; o( 
 
 ^ who this Richard King of England was, it is impossible to say ; the tomb still exists, and 
 has long been a crux to Antiquaries and Travellers. — Editor. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. I51 
 
 tnese we bought gloves and embroidered stomachers generaly worn by 
 gentlemen in these countries. The circuit of this state is but two easy 
 days journey, and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany's, but having 
 Spain for a Protector (tho' the least bigotted of all Roman Catholics), 
 and being one of the best fortify'd Citties in Italy, it remains in peace. 
 This whole country abounds in excellent olives, &c. 
 
 Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoia, where besides one 
 church there was little observable : onely in the highway we crossed 
 a rivulet of salt water tho' many miles from the sea. The country is 
 extreamly pleasant, full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line for 
 the best part of that whole day, the hedges planted with trees at equal 
 distances, watered with cleare and plentifull streames. 
 
 Ri^ng early the next morning we alighted at Poggio Imperiale, 
 being a Palace of the Create Duke, not far from the Citty, having omitted 
 It in my passage to Rome. The ascent to the house is by a stately 
 gallery as it were of talle and overgrown cypresse trees for neere half a 
 mile. At the enterance of these ranges are placed statues of the Tyber 
 and Ar-no, of iparble ; those also of Virgil, Ovid, Petrarch, and Dante. 
 The building is sumptuous and curiously furnish'd within with cabinets 
 of Pieta Commessa in tables, pavements, &c. which is a magnificence 
 or work particularly affected at Florence. The larger pictures are, Adam 
 and Eve by Albert Durer, very excellent ; as is that piece of carving in 
 wood by the same hand standing in a cupboard. Here is painted the 
 whole Austrian line ; the Duke's Mother, sister to the Emperor, the 
 foundresse of this Palace, than which there is none in Italy that I had 
 seene more magnificently adorn'd or furnish'd. 
 
 We could not omit in our passage to revisit the same and other curio- 
 sities which we had omitted at our first being at Florence. We went 
 therefore to see the famous piece of Andrea del Sarto in the Annunciata; 
 the storie is, that the Painter in a time of dearth borrow'd a sack of 
 corne of the religious of that convent, and repayment being demanded, 
 he wrought it out in this picture, which represents Joseph sitting on a 
 sack of com and reading to the B. Virgin ; a piece infinitely valued. 
 There fell down in the Cloister an old man's face painted on the wall in 
 fresco, greately esteem'd, and brake into crumbs ; the Duke sent his 
 best painters to make another instead of it, but none of them would 
 presume to touch a pencil where Andrea had wrought, like another 
 Apelles ; but one of them was so industrious and patient, that, picking 
 up the fragments, he laied and fastned them so artificialy together, that 
 the injury it had received was hardly discernable. Andrea del Sarto 
 lies buried in the same place. Here is also that picture of Bartolomeo, 
 who having spent his utmost skill in the face of the Angel Gabriel, and 
 being troubl'd that he could not exceede it in the Virgin, he began the 
 body and to finish the clothes, and so left it, minding in the morning to 
 work on the face,; but when he came, no sooner had he drawn away 
 
152 THE ART TREASURES AND THE RICHES OF FLORENCE. 
 
 the cloth that was hung before it to preserve it from the dust, than an 
 admirable and ravisliing face was found ready painted, at wliich miracle 
 all the Citty came in to worship ; 'tis now kept in the Chapell of the 
 Salutation, a place so enrich'd by the devotees that none in Italy save 
 Loretto is said to exceede it. This picture is always cover'd with 3 
 shutters, one of which is of massie silver ; methinks it is very brown, 
 the forehead and cheekes whiter, as if it had ben scraped. They report 
 that those who have the honour of seeing it never lose their sight — 
 happy then we ! There is belonging to this Church a world of plate, 
 some whole statues of it, and lamps innumerable, besides the costly 
 vowes hung up, some of gold, and a cabinet of precious stones. 
 
 Visiting the Duke's repository againe, we told at least 40 ranks of 
 porphyry and other statues, and 28 whole figures, many rare paintings 
 and relievo's, 2 square columns with trophies. In one of the galleries 
 24 figures and 50 antiq heads ; a Bacchus of M. Angelo, and one of 
 Bandinelli ; a head of Bernini, and a most lovely Cupid of Parian 
 marble ; at the further end, two admirable women sitting, and a man 
 fighting with a. Centaur ; 3 figures in little of Andrea ; an huge candle- 
 stick of amber ; a table of Titian's painting, and another representing 
 God the Father sitting in the aire on the 4 Evangelists ; animals ; divers 
 smaller pieces of Raphael ; a piece of pure virgin gold as big as an egg. 
 In the third chamber of rarities is the square cabinet valued at 80,000 
 crownes, shewing on every front a variety of curious work ; one of birds 
 and flowers of Pietra Commessa ; one, a descent from the crosse, of 
 M. Angelo ; on the third our Bl. Saviour and the Apostles, of amber ; 
 and on the 4th a crucifix of the same. 'Twixt the pictures two naked 
 Venus's by Titian ; Adam and Eve by Durer ; and severall pieces of 
 Pordenone and del Frate. There is a globe of 6 foote diameter. Ip 
 the Armourie were an entire elk, a crocodile, and amongst the hamesse 
 several targets and- antiq horse armes, as that of Cha. V. Two set with 
 turcoises and other precious stones ; a horse's taile of a wonderful! 
 length. Then passing the Old Palace, which has a very greate hall for 
 feasts and comedies, the roofe rarely painted, and the side walls with 6 
 very large pictures representing batailes, the worke of Gio. Vassari. 
 Here is a magazine full of plate ; a harnesse of emeralds ; the furni- 
 tures of an altar 4 foote high and six in length, of massy gold ; in the 
 middle is placed the statue of Cosmo II. the bass relievo's of precious 
 stones, his breeches cover'd with diamonds ; the mouldings of this sta- 
 tue, and other ornaments, festoons, &c. are garnish'd with Jewells and 
 great pearls, dedicated to St. Charles, with this incription in rubies : 
 
 Cosimus Secundus Dei gratia Magnus Dux Etrurise, ex vote. 
 There is also a King on horseback of massy gold 2 foote high, and an 
 infinity of such like rarities. Looking at the Justice in copper, set up 
 on a column by Cosmo in 1555 after the victory over Sienna, we were 
 told that when the Duke asking a Gentleman how he liked the piece, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 1 53 
 
 he ans.vL-red that he liked it very well, but that it stood too high lor 
 pooremein to come at it. 
 
 Prince Leopold has in this Citty a very excellent collection of paint 
 ings, especialy a S(. Catharine of P. Veroneze ; a Venus of marble, 
 veiled from the middle to the feete, esteem'd to be of that Greeke work- 
 man who made the Venus at the Medici's Palace in Rome, altogether 
 as good, and better preserved, an inestimable statue, and not long since 
 found about Bologna. 
 
 Signor Gaddi is a letter'd person, and has divers rarities, statues and 
 pictures of the best masters, and one bust of marble as much esteem'd 
 as the most antiq in Italy, and many curious manuscripts; his best 
 paintings are, a Virgin of del Sarto, mention'd by Vassari, a St. John 
 by Raphael, and an Ecce Homo by Titian. 
 
 The Hall of the Academie de la Crusca is hung about with impresses 
 and devices painted, all of them relating to corne sifted from' the brann ; 
 the seates are made like bread baskets and other rustic instruments us'd 
 about wheate, and the cushions of satin, like sacks. 
 
 ^ We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly noticing that 
 piece of the Resurrection, which consists of a prodigious number of 
 naked figures, the work of Pontarno. On the left hand is the Martyr- 
 dom of St. Laurence by Bronzini, rarely painted indeed. In a Chapell 
 is the tomb of Pietro di Medici and his brother John, of coper, excel- 
 lently designed, standing on 2 lions' feete which end in foliage, the work 
 of M. Angelo. Over against this are selpulchers of all the ducal family. 
 The altar has a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two Apostles. 
 Paulus Jovius has the honour to be buried in the cloister. Behind 
 the quire is the superb chapell of Ferdinand I. consisting of eight faces, 
 foure plaine, foure a little hollow'd, in the other are to be the sepul- 
 chres and a niche of paragon for the statue of the Prince now living, 
 all of coper gilt ; above is a large table of porphyrie for an inscrip- 
 tion for the Duke in letters of jasper. The whole Chapell, walls, pave- 
 ment, and roofe are full of precious stones united with the mouldings, 
 which are also of gilded coper, and so are the bases and capitals of the 
 columns. The tabernacle with the whole altar is inlaid with cornelians, 
 lazuli, serpentine, achats, onyxes, &c. On the other side are 6 very 
 large columns of rock chrystal, 8 figures of precious stones of several 
 colours, inlayed in natural figures not inferior to the best paintings, 
 amongst which are many pearls, diamonds, amethysts, topazes, sump- 
 tuous and sparkling beyond description. The windows without side are 
 of white marble. The library is the architecture of Raphael ; before the 
 port is a square vestibule of excellent art, of all the orders without con- 
 fusion ; the ascent to it from the library is excellent. We number'd 
 88 shelves, all MSS. and bound in red, chain'd ; in all about 3500 
 volumes, as they told us. 
 The Arsenal has sufficient to arme 70,000 men, accurately prescrv'd 
 
4 
 
 ■ 54 STATUES, FOUNTAINS, AND CASCADES, ARTIFICIAL AND MUSICAL. 
 
 and kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordinance, wliereof one is for a 
 ball of 300 pounds weiglit, and another for 160 which weighs 72,500 
 pounds. 
 
 When I was at Florence the celebrated masters were, for Pietra 
 Commessa (a kind of mosaiq or inlaying of various colour'd marble, 
 and other more precious stones) Dominico Benetti and Mazzotti ; the 
 best statuarie, Vincentio Brochi ; painter, Pietro Beretino di Cortona. 
 This statuary makes those small statues in plaster and pasteboard 
 -.vhich so resemble coper, that till one handles them they cannot be 
 distinguish'd, he has so rare an art of bronzing them. I bought four 
 of him. 
 
 This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan or prostitute allowed 
 to practice that infamous trade in his dominions, and so has his holi- 
 nesse the Pope, but not so much in value. 
 
 Taking leave of our two jolly companions Signor Giovanni and his 
 fellow, we tooke horses for Bologna, and by the way alighted at a villa 
 of the Grand Duke's called Pratoline. The house is a square of 4 pavi- 
 lions, withia faire platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in a 
 large meadow, ascending like an amphitheater, having at the bottom a 
 huge rock with water running in a small channell like a cascade ; on 
 the other side are the gardens. The whole place seems consecrated tc 
 pleasure and summer retirement. The inside of the palace may com- 
 pare with any in Italy for furniture of tapistry, beds, &c. and the gar- 
 dens are delicious and full of fountaines. In the grove sits Pan feeding 
 his flock, the water making a melodious sound through his pipe ; and 
 an Hercules whose club yields a shower of water which falling into a 
 greate shell has a naked woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In 
 another grotto is Vulcan and his family, the walls richly compos'd of 
 corals, shells, coper, and marble figures, with the hunting of severall 
 beasts, moving by the force of water. Here, having ben well washed 
 for our curiosity, we went down a large walke, at the sides whereof 
 several slender streams of water gush out of pipes concealed underneath, 
 that interchangeably fall into each others channells, making a lofty and 
 perfect arch, so that a man on horseback may ride under it and not 
 receive one drop of wet. This canopy or arch of water, I thought one 
 of the most surprising magnificencies I had ever seene, and very re- 
 freshing in the heate of the sum'er. At the end of this very long walk 
 stands a woman in white marble, in posture of a laundress wringing 
 water out of a piece of linen, very naturally formed, into a vast lavor 
 the work and invention of M. Angelo Buonarotti. Hence we ascended 
 Mount Parnassus, where the Muses plaied to us on hydraulic organs. 
 Neere this is a greate aviarie. All these waters came from the rock in 
 the garden, on which is the statue of a gyant representing the Apen- 
 nines, at the foote of which stands this villa. Last of all we came to 
 the labyrinth in which a huge colosse of Jupiter throws out a streame 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 155 
 
 over the garden. This is 50 foote in height, having in his body a 
 square chamber, his eyes and mouth serving for windows and dore. 
 
 We toolc horse and supped that night at II Ponte, passing a dread- 
 full ridge of the Apennines, in many places capped with snow, which 
 covers them the whole sum'er. We then descended into a luxurious 
 and rich plaine. The next day we passed through Scarperia, mounting 
 the hills againe where the passage is so strait and precipitous towards 
 the right hand that we climbed them with much care and danger; 
 lodging at Fiorenzuolo, which is a fort buih amongst the rocks and 
 defending the confines of the greate Duke's territories. 
 
 The next day we passed by the Pietra Mala, a burning mountaine. 
 At the sum'it of this prodigious masse of hills we had an unpleasant 
 way to Pianura, where we slept that night and were entertain'd with 
 excellent wine. Hence to Scafgalasino, and to bed at Loiano. This 
 plaine begins about six miles from Bologna. 
 
 This towne belongs to the Pope, and is a famous University, situate 
 in one of the richest spots of Europe for all sorts of provisions. 'Tis 
 built like a ship, whereof the Tori4 d'Asinello may go for tlie main- 
 mast. The Citty is of no greate strength, having a trifling wall about 
 it, in circuit neere 5 miJes, and 2 in length. This Torre d'Asinello, 
 ascended by 447 steps of a foote rise, seems exceedingly high, is very 
 narrow, and the more conspicuous from another tower call'd Garisenda 
 so artificially built of brick (which increases the wonder) that it seems 
 ready to faU : 'tis not now so high as the other, but they say the upper 
 part was formerly taken down for feare it should really fall and do 
 some mischief 
 
 Next we went to see an imperfect Church cal'd St. Petronius, shew- 
 ing the intent of the founder had he gon on. From this our guide led 
 us to the Schooles, which indeede are very magnificent. Thence to St. 
 Dominic's, where that saint's body lies richly inshrin'd. The stalls, or 
 seates of this goodly church have the historic of the Bible inlaied with 
 severall woods very curiously don, the work of one Fr. Damianc di 
 Bergomo and a frier of that order. Amongst other reliques they shew 
 the two books of Esdras written with his own hand. Here lie buried 
 Jac. Andreas and divers other learn'd persons. To the Church joynes 
 the Convent, in the quadrangle whereof are old cypresses, said to have 
 been planted by their Saint. 
 
 Then we went to the Palace of the Legal, a faire brick building, as 
 are most of the houses and buildings for the whole towne, full of excel- 
 lent carving and mouldings, so as nothing in stone seemes to be better 
 iinish'd or more ornamentall ; witnesse those excellent columns to be 
 scene in many of their churches, convents, and publiq buildings, for 
 the whole towne is so cloyster'd that one may passe from house to 
 house through the streetes without being expos'd to raine or sun. 
 
 Before the stately hall of this Palace stands the statue of Paule IV 
 
1S6 STATUARY, PICTURES, CARVINGS, AND RARE PIECES. 
 
 and divers others ; also flie monument of the coronation of Charles V. 
 The Piazza before it is the most stately in Italy, St. Mark's at Venice 
 onely excepted. In the center of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble 
 figure in coper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a very rich 
 vest of cloth of tissue, and severall other ornaments, according to the 
 fashion of his country, which much pleased me ; he was a young hand- 
 som person, of the most stately mien. 
 
 I would faine have seene the Library of St. Saviour's, famous for the 
 number of rare manuscripts, but could not, so we went to St. Francis's, 
 a glorious pile and exceedingly adorn'd within. 
 
 After dinner I enquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano, to whom 
 I brought recom'endations from Rome ; this was he who invented or 
 found out the composition of the lapis illuminabilis , or phosphorus. 
 He shew'd me their property (for he had severall), being to retaine the 
 light of the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition, by a 
 particular way of calcination. Some of these presented a blew colour 
 like the; flame of brimstone, others like coals of a kitchen fire. The 
 rest of the afternoone was taken u^ in St. Michael in Bosco, built on 
 a steepe hill on the edge of the Citty, for its fabrick, pleasant shade and 
 groves, cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most delicious re- 
 tirements I ever saw, art and nature contending which shall exceede ; 
 so as till now I never envied the life of a frier. The whole towne and 
 country to a vast extent are under com'and of their eyes, almost as far 
 as Venice itselfe. In this Convent there are many excellent paintings 
 of Guido Rheni, above all, the little cloister of 8 faces painted by 
 Carracci va. fresco. The carvings in wood in the sacristy are admirable, 
 as is the inlay'd work about the Chapell, which even emulates the best 
 paintings, the work is so delicate and tender. The paintings of St. 
 Saviour are of Carracci and Leonardo, and there are excellent things 
 oi Raphael which we could not see. 
 
 In the Church of St. John is a fine piece of .5"/. Cecilia by Raphael 
 As to other paintings, there is in the Church of St. Gregorie an excel- 
 lent picture of a Bishop giving the habit of St. Bernard to an arm'd 
 souldier, with severall other figures in the piece, the work of Guerchino. 
 Indeede this Citty is full of rare pieces, especialy of Guido, Domenico, 
 and a virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living, who has painted many 
 excellent pieces, and imitates Guido so well that many skilfull artists 
 have been deceiv'd. 
 
 At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy by Rheni, after the 
 manner of Caravagio, but better ; and here they shew'd us that famoai 
 piece oi Christ calling St. Matthew, by Hannibal Cairacci. The Mat 
 ques Magniani kas the whole freeze of his Hall painted in fresco by the 
 same hand. 
 
 Many of the religious men here nourish those lap-dogs which the 
 ladies are so fond of, and which they here sell. They are a pigmy sort 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 157 
 
 of spaniels, whose noses they break when puppies, which in my opinion 
 deforms them. 
 
 At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the dormitorie 
 of St. Michael I found a paper pasted neere the window, containing the 
 dimensions of most of the famous Churches in Italy compar'd with their 
 Toures here, and the length of this Gallery, a copy whereof I tooke. 
 
 St. Pietro di Roma. 
 
 Braccia. ' 
 
 Piedi di Bolognia. 
 
 Cana di Roma, j 
 
 
 
 
 longo — — 
 
 284 
 
 473 
 
 84 
 
 Cupola del murro, alta 
 
 210 
 
 350 
 
 60 
 
 Torre d'Asinello, alto 
 
 2o8| 
 
 348 
 
 S9pr. 6 
 
 Dormitorio de St. 
 
 
 
 
 Mich, a Bologn. longo 
 
 254 
 
 423 
 
 1^\ 
 
 From hence being brought to a subterranean territorie of cellars, the 
 courteous Friars made us taste a variety of excellent wines, and so we 
 departed to our Inn. 
 
 This Citty is famous also for sausages ; and here is sold greate quan- 
 tities of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo, Caviare, &c. which makes 
 some of their shops perfume the streetes, with no agreeable smell. We 
 furnish'd ourselves with wash-balls, the best being made here, and being 
 a considerable commodity. This place has also been famous for lutes 
 made by the old masters, MoUen Hans Frey, and Nicholas Sconvelt, which 
 were of extraordinary price ; the workmen were cheifly Germans. The 
 cattle used for draught in this country (which is very rich and fertile, 
 especialy in pasturage) are cover'd with housings of linnen fring'd at 
 the bottome, that dangle about them, preserving them from flyes, which 
 in sum'er are very troublesome. 
 
 From this pleasant Citty we went now towards Ferrara, carrying with 
 us a buUetino or bill of health, (customary in all these parts of Italy, 
 especialy in the State of Venice,) and so put ourselves into a boate that 
 was tow'd with horses, often interrupted by the sluices (inventions there 
 to raise the water for the use of mills, and to fill the artificial canalls) at 
 everyone of which we stayed till passage was made. We went by the 
 Castle Bentivoglio, and about night ariv'd at an ugly inn call'd Mai 
 Albergo, agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supp'd, we em- 
 bark'd and pass'd that night thro' the Fenns, where we were so pestered 
 with those flying glow-worms called Luccioli, that one who had never 
 heard of them would think the Country full of sparks of fire ; beating 
 some of them downe, and applying them to a book, I could reade in 
 the dark by the light they afforded. 
 
 Quitting our boate we took coach, and by morning got to Ferrara, 
 where, before we could gain entrance, our gunns and armes were taken 
 from us of custom, the Ipck being taken off before, as we were advis'd. 
 
 ^ A measure of half ao ell. 
 
IS8 FERRARA ; THE PO, THE ADICE, CANALS, VENICE. 
 
 The Citty is in a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The 
 houses and streetes have nothing of beauty, except the Palace and 
 Church of St. Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried ; and there are some 
 good statues, the Palazzo del Diamante, Citadel, Church of St. Dominico. 
 The Market-place is very spacious, having in its center the figure of 
 Nicholao Olao, once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in coper. It is in 
 a word a dirty towne, and tho' the streetes be large they remaine ill 
 pav'd ; yet it is an University, and now belongs to the Pope. Tho' 
 there are not many fine houses in the Citty, the inn where we lodg'd 
 was a very noble palace, having an Angel for its sign. 
 
 We parted from hence about 3 in the afternoone, and went some c£ 
 our way on the Chanell, and then imbark'd on the Po, or Padus, by the 
 poets called Eridanus, where they faine Phaeton to have fallen after 
 his rash attempt, and where lo was metamorphos'd into a cow. There 
 was in 'our company, amongst others, a Polonian Bishop, who was ex- 
 ceeding civill to me in this passage, and afterwards did me many kind- 
 nesses at Venice. We supp'd this night at a place called Corbua, 
 neere the ruines of the ancient Citty Adria, which gives name to the 
 Gulph, or Sea. After 3 miles, having passed 30 on the Po, we imbarked 
 in a stout vessell, and thro' an artificial chanell, very strait, we entred 
 the Adice, which carried us by breake of day into the Adriatic, and so 
 sailing prosperously by Chioza, (a towne upon an island in this Sea,) 
 and Palestina, we came over against Malamocco (the cheife port and 
 ankerage where our English merchantmen lie that trade to Venice,) 
 about 7 at night, after we had stayed at least 2 houres for permission 
 to land, our bill of health being deliver'd according to costome. So 
 soone as we came on shore we were conducted to the Dogana, where 
 our portmanteaus were visited, and then we got to our lodging, which 
 was at honest Signor Paulo Rhodomante's at the Black Eagle near the 
 Rialto, one of the best quarters of the towne. This journey from Rome 
 to Venice cost me 7 pistoles and 13 julios. 
 
 June. The next morning, finding myself extreamly weary and beaten 
 with my journey, I went to one of their bagnios, where you are treated 
 after the Eastern manner, washing with hot and cold water, with oyles, 
 and being rubbed with a kind of strigil of seal's-skin, put on the ope- 
 rator's hand like a glove. This bath did so open my pores that it cost 
 me one of the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of neces- 
 sary caution in keeping myselfe warme for some time after ; for coming 
 out I im'ediately began to visit the famous places of the Citty ; and 
 Travellers who come into Italy do nothing but run up and down to see 
 sights, and this Citty well deserved our admiration, being the most 
 wonderfully placed of any in the world, built on so many hundred 
 islands, in the very Sea, and at good distance from the Continent. It 
 has no fresh water except what is reserved in cisterns from raine, and 
 such as is daily brought from terra firma in boates, yet there was no 
 want of it, and all sorts of excellent provisions were very cheape. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 159 
 
 Tis said that when the Huns overran Italy some meane fishermen 
 and others left the maine land and fled for shelter to these despicable 
 and muddy islands, which in processe of time, by industry, are growne 
 to the greatnesse of one of the most considerable States, considered as 
 a Republic, and having now subsisted longer than any of the foure 
 ancient Monarchies, flourishing in greate state, wealth, and glory, by 
 the conquest of greate territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece, Candy, Rhodes, 
 and Sclavonia, and at present challenging the empire of all the Adriatiq 
 Sea, which they yearly espouse by casting a gold ring into it with 
 greate pomp and ceremony on Ascension Day : the desire of seeing 
 this was one of the reasons that hastened us from Rome. 
 
 The Doge, having heard masse in his robes of state (which are verj- 
 particular, after the Eastern fashion,) together with the Senat in their 
 gownes, imbark'd in their gloriously painted, carved, and gilded Bu- 
 centora, inviron'd and foUow'd by innumerable gallys, gondolas, and 
 boates, filled with spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets, 
 musiq, and canons ; having rowed about a league into the Gulph, the 
 Duke at the prow casts a gold ring and cup into the Sea, at which a loud 
 acclamation is ecchoed from the greate guns of the Arsenal and at the 
 Liddo. We then return'd. 
 
 Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water- coach (for 
 land-ones there are many old men in this Citty who never saw one, or 
 rarely a horse), we rowed up and downe the Channells, which answer 
 to our streetes. These vessells are built very long and narrow, having 
 necks and tailes of Steele, somewhat spreading at the beake like a 
 fishe's taile, and kept so exceedingly polish'd as to give a greate lustre ; 
 some are adorn'd with carving, others lined with velvet (commonly 
 black), with curtains and tassells, and the seates like couches, to lie 
 stretch'd on, while he who rowes stands upright on the very edge of 
 the boate, and with one oare bending forward as if he would fall into 
 the Sea, rows and turnes with incredible dexterity ; thus passing from 
 channell to channell, landing his fare or patron at what house he pleases. 
 The beakes of these vessells are like the ancient Roman rostrums. 
 
 The first publiq building I went to see was the Rialto, a bridge of 
 one arch over the grand Canall, so large as to admit a gaily to row 
 under it, built of good marble, and having on it, besides many pretty 
 «hops, three ample and stately passages for people without any incon- 
 venience, the two outmost nobly balustred with the same stone ; a piece 
 ' of Architecture much to be admir'd. It was evening, and the Canall 
 where the Noblesse go to take the air, as in our Hide-park, was full of 
 ladys and gentlemen. There are many times dangerous stops by rea- 
 son of the multitude of gondolas ready to sink one another ; and 
 indeede they affect to leane them on one side, that one who is not 
 accostom'd to it would be afraid of over-setting. Here they were 
 singing, playing on harpsicords and other musick, and serenading their 
 
l6o THE RIALTO ; GONDOLAS ; EXCHANGE ; CHURCH OF ST. MARC. 
 
 mistresses ; in another place racing and other pastimes upon the water, 
 it being now exceeding hot. 
 
 Next day I went to their Fxchange, a place like ours frequented by 
 merchants, but nothing so mugnificent : from thence my guide led me 
 to the Fondigo di Todeschi, which is their magazine, and here many of 
 the merchants, especialy Germans, have their lodging and diet as in a 
 college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by Gioigione da 
 Castelfranco, and Titian himselfe. 
 
 Hence I pass'd thro' the Merceria, which is one of the most delicious 
 streetes in the world for the sweetnesse of it, and is all the way on both 
 sides tapistred as it were with cloth of gold, rich damasks and other 
 silks, which the shops expose and hang before their houses from the 
 first floore, and with that variety that for neere halfe the yeare spent 
 cheifly in this Citty I hardly remember to have seene the same piece 
 twice expos'd ; to this add the perfumes, apothecaries shops, and the 
 innumerable cages of nightingales which they keepe, that entertaine 
 you with their melody from shop to shop, so that shutting your eyes you 
 would imagine yourselfe in the country, when indeede you are in the 
 middle of the Sea. It is almost as silent as the middle of a field, there 
 being neither rattling of coaches nor trampling of horses. This streete, 
 pav'd with brick and exceeding 'y cleane, brought us thro' an arch into 
 the famous Piazza of St. Marc. 
 
 Over this Porch stands that admirable Clock, celebrated next to that 
 of Strasburg for its many movements ; amongst which, about 12 and 6, 
 which are their houres of Ave Maria when all the towne are on their 
 knees, come forth the 3 Kings led by a Starr, and passing by the image 
 of Christ in his Mother's armes do their reverence, and enter into the 
 clock by another doore. At the top of this turret another automaton 
 strikes the quarters ; an honest merchant told me that one day walking 
 in the Piazza, he saw the fellow who kept the Clock struck with this 
 hammer so forceably, as he was stooping his head neere the bell to 
 mend something amisse at the instant of striking, that being stunn'd he 
 reel'd over the battlements and broke his neck. The buildings in this 
 Piazza are all arch'd, on pillars, pav'd within with black and white 
 polish'd marble even to the shops, the rest of the fabric as stately as 
 any in Europ, being not only marble but the architecture is of the 
 famous Sansovini, who lies buried in St. Jacomo at the end of the 
 Piazza. The battlements of this noble range of building are rail'd with 
 stone, and thick set with excellent statues, which add a great orna- 
 ment. One of the sides is yet much more Roman-like than the other 
 vhich reguards the Sea, and where the Church is plac'd. The other 
 tange is plainly Gotiq : and so we entred into St. Marc's Church, 
 before which stand two brasse piedestals exquisitely cast and figur'd, 
 which beare as many tall masts painted red, on which upon greate 
 festivals they hang flags and streamers. The Church is also Gotic ; 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. l6l 
 
 y«t for the preciousnese of the materials being of severall rich marbles, 
 aboundance of porphyrie, serpentine, &c. far exceeding any in Rome, 
 St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired the splendid historic of 
 our B. Saviour compos'd all of Mosaic over the faciata, below which 
 and over the cheife gate are four horses cast in coper as big as the life, 
 the same that formerly were transported from Rome by Constantine to 
 Byzantium, and thence by the Venetians hither.' They are supported 
 by S porphyrie columns of very great size and value. Being come into 
 the Church, you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but what is 
 precious. The fioore is all inlayed with achats, lazuli's, calcedons, jas- 
 pers, porphyries and other rich marbles, admirable also for the work ; 
 the walls sumptuously incrusted and presenting to the imagination the 
 shapes of men, birds, houses, flowers, and a thousand varieties. The 
 roofe is of most excellent Mosaic ; but what most persons admire is the 
 new work of the emblematic tree at the other passage out of the Church. 
 In the midst of this rich volto rise five cupolas, the middle very large 
 and sustayn'd by 36 marble columns, eight of which are of precious 
 marbles : under these cupolas is the high altar, on which is a reliquarie 
 of severall sorts of Jewells, engraven with figures after the Greekfj 
 maner, and set together with plates of pure gold. The altar is cover'd 
 with a canopy of ophit, on which is sculptur'd the storie of the Bible, 
 and so on the pillars, which are of Parian marble, that support it. 
 Behind these are four other columns of transparent and true Oriental 
 alabaster, brought hither out of the mines of Solomon's Temple as they 
 report. There are many chapells and notable monuments of illustrious 
 persons, Dukes, Cardinals, &c. as Zeno, Jo. Soranzi, and others : there 
 is likewise a vast baptisterie of coper. Among other venerable reliques 
 is a stone on which they say our Blessed Lord stood preaching to those 
 of Tyre and Sidon, and neere the doore is an image of Christ, much 
 ador'd, esteeming it very sacred, for that a rude fellow striking it, they 
 say, there gush'd out a torrent of blood. In one of the corners lies the 
 body of St. Isidore, brought hither 500 years since from the island of 
 Chios. A little farther they shew the picture of St. Dominic and 
 Francis, affirm'd to have ben made by the Abbot Joachim (many yeares 
 before any of them were bom.) Going out of the Church they shew'd 
 us the stone where Alexander III. trod on the neck of the Emperor 
 Fred. Barbarossa, pronouncing that verse of the psalm, " super basilis- 
 cutn," &c. The dores of the Church are of massie coper. There are 
 neere 500 pillars in this building, most of them porphyrie and serpen- 
 tine, and brought cheifly from Athens and other parts of Greece 
 brmerly in their power. At the corner of the Church are inserted into 
 the maine wall four figures as big as life cut in porphyrie, which they 
 say are the images of four brothers who poysoned one another, by 
 
 iThcy were taken away by Buouafarte to Paris, but in 1815 were sent baclc to Venice. Edit. 
 
 1.1 
 
I62 TRESORO DI SAN MARCO ; SENATE-HOUSE ; DUCAL PALACE. 
 
 which meanes there escheated to the Republiq that vast treasury of 
 rehcques now belonging to the Church. At the other entrance that 
 looks towards the Sea, stands in a small chapell that statue of out 
 Lady, made (as they aftirme) of the same stone or rock out of which 
 Moses brought water to the murmuring Israelities at Meriba. 
 
 After all that is said, this Church is in my opinion much too dark 
 and dismal, and of heavy work ; the fabric, as is much of Venice both 
 for buildings and other fashions and circumstances, after the Greekes, 
 their next neighboures. 
 
 The next day, by favour of the French Ambassador I had admittance 
 with him to see the Reliquary call'd here Tresoro di San Marco, which 
 very few even of travellers are admitted to see. It is a large chamber 
 full of presses. There are twelve breast-plates, or pieces of pure golden 
 armour studded with precious stones, and as many crownes dedicated 
 to St. Mark by so many noble Venetians who had recovered theirwives 
 taken at sea by the Saracens ; many curious vases of achats ; the cap 
 or cornet of the Dukes of Venice, one of which had .1 rubie set on it 
 esteemed worth 200,000 crownes ; two unicorns ho.'nes ; numerous 
 vasas and dishes of achat set thick with precious stones and vast 
 pearles ; divers heads of Saints inchas'd in gold ; a small ampulla or 
 glasse with our Saviour's blood ; a greate morcell of the real crosse ; 
 one of the nailes ; a thorn ; a fragment of the column to which our 
 Lord was bound when scourged ; the standard or ensigne of Constan- 
 tine ; a piece of St. Luke's arme ; a rib of St. Stephen ; a fmger of 
 Mary Magdalene ; numerous other things which I could not remem- 
 ber ; but a priest, first vesting himselfe in his sacerdotals with the stole 
 about his neck, shew'd us the Gospel of St. Mark (their tutelar patron) 
 written by his own hand, and whose body they shew buried in the 
 Church, brought hither from Alexandria many years ago. 
 
 The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of P. Veroneze, espe> 
 cialy that of the Magdalen. 
 
 A French Gentleman and myself went to the Courts of Justice, the 
 Senate-house, and Ducal Palace. The first Court neere this Church is 
 almost wholly built of several colour'd sorts of marble, like chequer 
 work on the outside ; this is sustain'd by vast pillars, not very shapely, 
 but observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three no two are 
 alike. Under this fabrick is the Cloyster where Merchants meete mor- 
 ning and evening, as also the grave Senators and Gentlemen, to confer 
 of state affaires in their gownes and caps like so many Philosophers ; 
 'tis a very noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle stood 
 two square columns of white marble, carved, which they said had ben 
 erected to hang one of their Dukes on who design'd to make himselfe 
 Soveraigne. Going through a stately arch there were standing in 
 niches divers statues of greate value, amongst which is the so celebra- 
 ted Eve, esteem'd worth its weight in gold ; it is just opposite to the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 1 63 
 
 staires where are two Colossus's of Mars and Neptune by Sansovino. 
 We went up into a Coridore built with several Tribunals and Courts ot 
 Justice ; and by a well contriv'd stair-case were landed in the Senate- 
 hall, which appears to be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in 
 Europ, being 76 paces long and 32 in breadth. At the upper end are 
 the Tribunals of the Doge, Council of Ten, and Assistants ; in the body 
 of the hall are lower ranks of seates capable of containing 1500" 
 Senators, for they consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over the 
 Duke's throne are the paintings of the Final Judgment by Tintoret,. 
 esteem'd amongst the best pieces in Europe. On the roofe are the 
 famous Acts of the Republick painted by severall excellent masters, 
 especialy Bassano ; next them are the Effigies of the severall Dukes^ 
 with their Elogies. Then we turned into a great Court painted with 
 the Battail of Lepanto, an excellent piece ; thence into the Chamber 
 of the Council of Ten, painted by the most celebrated masters. Front 
 hence, by the special favour of an lUustrissimo, we were carried to see 
 the private Armorie of the Palace, and so to the same Court we first 
 entered, nobly built of polish'd white marble, part of which is the Duke's 
 Court pro tempore; there are two wells adom'd with excellent work in 
 coper. This led us to the sea-side, where stand those two columns of 
 ophite stone in the intire piece, of a greate height, one bearing St. Mark's- 
 Lion, the other St. Theodorus ; these pillars were brought from Greece, 
 and set up by Nic. Baraterius the architect ; betweene them publique- 
 executions are performed. 
 
 Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of the Island St. George,, 
 the gallies, gondolas, and other vessells passing to and fro, we walked 
 under the Cloyster on the other side of this goodly Piazza, being a most 
 magnificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went into the 
 Zecca, or Mint ; at the entrance stand two prodigious Giants or Her- 
 cules of white marble : we saw them melt, beate, and coyne silver, gold, 
 and coper. We then went up into the Procuratorie, and a Library of 
 excellent MSS. and books belonging to it and the Publiq. After this 
 we climb 'd up the Toure of St. Mark, which we might have don on 
 horseback, as 'tis said one of the French Kings did, there being no 
 stayres or steps, but retumes that take up an entire square on the arches 
 40 foote, broad enough for a coach. This Steeple stands by itselfe 
 without any Church neere it, and is rather a watch toure in the corner 
 of the greate Piazza, 230 foote in height, the foundation exceeding 
 deepe ; on the top is an Angel that turns with the wind, and from hence 
 is a prospect down the Adriatic as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side, 
 with the surprizing sight of this miraculous Citty, which lies in the bo- 
 some of the sea, in the shape of a lute, the numberless Islands tacked 
 together by no fewer than 450 bridges. At the foote of this Toure is a 
 public Tribunal of excellent work in white marble polish'd, adorn'd 
 with several brasse statues and figures of stone in mezzo relievo, the 
 *orke of some rare artist. 
 
j64 appearance, dress, and habits of the VENETIANS. 
 
 It was now Ascension Weeke, and the greate Mart or Faire of ths 
 whole yeare was now kept, every body at liberty and joUie. The noble- 
 men stalking with their ladys on choppinesj these are high-heel'd shoes, 
 particularly affected by these proude dames, or, as some say, invented 
 to keepe them at home, it being very difficult to walke with them ; 
 whence one being asked how he liked the Venetian dames, replied, 
 that they were mezzo came, mezzo ligno, half flesh, half wood, and he 
 would have none of them. The truth is, their garb is very odd, as seem- 
 ing allwayes in masquerade ; their other habits also totaly different from 
 all nations. They weare very long crisped haire, of severall strakes 
 and colours, which they make so by a wash, dischevelling it on the 
 brims of a broade hat that has no head, but an hole to put out their 
 heads by ; they drie them in the sunn, as one may see them at their 
 windows. In their tire they set silk flowers and sparkling stones, their 
 peticoates coming from their very arnic-pits, so that they are neere 
 .three quarters and an half apron ; their sleeves are made exceeding 
 wide, under which their shift sleeves as wide, and commonly tucked up 
 to the shoulder, shewing their naked armes, thro' false sleeves of tiffany, 
 -girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of points richly tagged about 
 'their shoulders and other places of their body, which they usually cover 
 with a kind of yellow vaile of lawn very transparent. Thus attir'd they 
 set their hands on the heads of two matron-like servants or old women, 
 .to support them, who are mumbling their beades. 'Tis ridiculous to see 
 how these ladys crawle in and out of 'C!\€\r gondolas by reason of their 
 choppines, and what dwarfs they appeare when taken downe from their 
 ■wooden scaffolds ; of these I saw near thirty together, stalking half as 
 high again as the rest of the world, for courtezans or the citizens may 
 mot weare choppines, but cover their bodies and faces with a vaile of a 
 certaine glittering taffeta or lustre^, out of which they now and then 
 . dart a glaunce of their eye, the whole face being otherwise entirely hid 
 'With it ; nor may the com'on misses take this habit, but go abroad bare- 
 ' fac'd. To the corners of these virgin-vailes hang broad but flat tossells 
 -of curious Point de Venize ; the married women go in black vailes. 
 The nobility weare the same colour, but of fine cloth lin'd with taffeta 
 in Summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrells in the Winter, which all 
 put on at a certaine day girt with a girdle emboss'd with silver ; the 
 vest not much different from what our Bachelors of Arts weare in 0.x- 
 ford, and a hood of cloth made like a sack, cast over their left shoulder, 
 and a round cloth black cap fring'd with wool which is not so comely ; 
 they also weare their collar open to shew the diamond button of the 
 stock of their shirt. I have never seene pearle for colour and bignesse 
 comparable to what the ladys wear, most of the noble families being 
 very rich in Jewells, especialy pearles, which are always left to the son 
 or brother who is destined to marry, which the eldest seldome do. The 
 Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's, &c. of damasc, very 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 165 
 
 stately. Nor was I lesse surprised with the strange variety of the 
 severall nations which were seen every day in the streetes and piazzas ; 
 Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians, Moores, Greekes, Sclavonians, some 
 with their targets and boucklers, and all in their native fashions, nego- 
 tiating in this famous Emporium, which is allways crowded with 
 strangers. 
 
 This night, having with my Lord Bruce taken our places before, we 
 went to the Opera where comedies and other plays are represented in 
 recitative musiq by the most excellent musicians vocal and instrumen- 
 tal, with variety of sceanes painted and contrived with no lesse art of 
 perspective, and machines for flying in the aire, and other wonderfull 
 motions ; taken together it is one of the most magnificent and expen- 
 sive diversions the wit of man can invent. The history was, Hercules 
 in Lydia ; the sceanes changed thirteen times. The famous voices, 
 Anna Rencia, a Roman, and reputed the best treble of women ; bui 
 there was an eunuch who in my opinion surpass'd her ; also a Genoeze. 
 that sung an incomparable base. This held us by the eyes and eares^- 
 till two in the morning, when we went to the Ghetto de san Felice, to 
 see the noblemen and their ladies at Basset, a game at cards which 
 is much used, but they play not in public, and all that have inclination 
 to it are in masquerade, without speaking one word, and so they come- 
 in, play, loose or gaine, and go away as they please. This time of 
 licence is onely in Carnival and this Ascension Weeke ; neither are 
 their Theaters open for that other magnificence or for ordinary come- 
 dians save on these solemnities, they being a frugal and wise people- 
 and exact observers of all sumptuarie laws. 
 
 There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy Land, I had re- 
 solved to imbark, intending to see Jerusalem and other parts of Syria,. 
 Egypt, and Turkey ; but after I had provided all necessaries, laid in 
 snow to coole our drink, bought some sheepe, poultry, biscuit, spirits, 
 and a little cabinet of drouggs in case of sicknesse, our vessell (where- 
 off Capt. Powell was master) happen'd to be press'd for the service of 
 the State to carry provisions to Candia, now newly attacqued by the- 
 Turkes, which altogether frustrated my designe, to my very greate 
 mortification. 
 
 On the . . . June we went to Padua, to the Faire of their St. Anthony 
 in company of divers passengers. The first terra firma we landed at 
 was Fesina, being onely an inn, where we changed our barge and were 
 then drawne up by horses thro' the river Brenta, a strait chanell as 
 even as a line for 20 miles, the country on both sides deliciously adorn'd 
 with country villas and gentlemen's retirements, gardens planted with 
 oranges, figs and other fruit belonging to the Venetians. At one 
 of these villas we went ashore to see a pretty contriv'd Palace. 
 Observable in this passage was buying their water of those who farme 
 the sluices, for this artificial river is in some places so shallow that 
 
l66 PADUA; TOMB OF ST. ANTHONY; SCULPTURES. 
 
 reserves of water are kept with sluices, which they open and shut with 
 a most ingenious invention or engine, govern'd even by a child. Thus 
 they keep up the water, or let it go, till the next channell be either 
 filled by the stop, or abated to the levell, of the other, for which every 
 boate pays a certain dutie. Thus we stay'd neere halfe an houre and 
 more at three severall places, so as it was evening before we got to 
 Padua. This is a very ancient Cittie if the tradition of Antenor's 
 being the founder be not a fiction ; but thus speakes the inscription 
 over a stately gate : 
 
 Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agrum 
 fertilitatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit an'o ante 
 Christum natum M.Cxviii, Senatus autemVenetus his belli propugnan- 
 dis ornavit. 
 
 The towne stands on the river Padus, whence its name, and is gene- 
 rally built like Bologna on arches and on brick, so that one may walk 
 all round it, dry, and in the shade, which is very convenient in these 
 hot countries, and I think I was never sensible of so burning a heate 
 as I was this season, especialy the next day, which was that of the 
 Faire, fiU'd with noble Venetians by reason of a greate and solemn 
 procession to their famous Cathedral. Passing by St. Lorenzo I met 
 with this inscription : 
 
 Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem ' 
 
 Transtulit hue Henetum Dardanidumq ; fuga, 
 Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem, 
 Quem tegit hie humili marmore caesa domus. 
 
 Under the tomb was a cobler at his work. Being now come to St. 
 Antonies (the streete most of the way strait, well built, and outside ex- 
 cellently painted vn. fresco) we survey'd the spacious piazza, in which is 
 erected a noble statue of coper of a man on horseback, in memorie of 
 one Catta Malata'', a renowned captaine. The Church a la Greca con- 
 sists of five handsome cupolas leaded. At the left hand within is the 
 tomb of St. Anthony and his altar, about which a mezzo relievo of the 
 miracles ascrib'd to him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by the 
 three famous sculptors TuUius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus, and 
 Hieron. Compagno. A little higher is the quire, wall'd parapet fashion 
 with sundry coloured stone halfe relievo, the work of Andrea Reccij. 
 The altar within is of the same metall, which with the candlestick and 
 bases is in my opinion as magnificent as any in Italy. The wainscot of 
 the quire is rarely inlayed and carved. Here are the sepulchres of 
 many famous persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, &c. and among the 
 rest one that for an exploit at sea has a gaily exquisitely carved thereon. 
 
 1 Keysler very justly observes that the first line of this inscription conveys no meaning. 
 Vol. III. p. 220. 
 
 2 Lassells calls him Gatta Mela, the Venetian Ceneral, nicknamed Gata, because of his 
 valchfulness, p. 429. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 1 67 
 
 The Procession bore the banners with all the treasure of the cloyster, 
 which was a very fine sight. 
 
 Hence walking over the Prate delle Valle, I went to see the Convent 
 of St. Justina's, than which I never beheld one more magnificent. The 
 Church is an excellent piece of architecture of Andrea Palladio, richly 
 pav'd, with a stately cupola that covers the high altar inshrining the 
 ashes of that Saint. It is of Pietra Commessa, consisting of flowers 
 very naturally don. The quire is inlay'd with severall sorts of wood 
 representing the holy history, finish'd with exceeding industry. At the 
 far end is that rare painting of Si. Justinds martyrdom, by P. Vero- 
 nese ; and a stone on which they told us divers primitive Christians 
 had ben decapitated. In another place (to which leads a small cloister 
 well painted) is a dry well cover'd with a brasse-work grate wherein 
 are the bones of divers martyrs. They shew also the bones of St. Luke 
 in an old alabaster cotSn ; three of the Holy Innocents ; and the bodys 
 of St. Maximus and Prosdocimus ' . The Dormitory above is exceed- 
 ing commodious and stately, but what most pleas'd me was the old 
 cloyster so well painted with the legendarie Saints, mingled with many 
 ancient inscriptions, and pieces of urnes dug up it seemes at the foun- 
 dation of the Church. Thus having spent the day in rambles, I return'd 
 the next day to Venice. 
 
 The Arsenal is thought to be one of the best furnish'd in the world. 
 We entred by a strong port always guarded, and ascending a spacious 
 gallery saw armes of back, breast, and head, for many thousands ; in 
 another were saddles, over them ensignes taken from the Turks. An- 
 other Hall is for the meeting of the Senat ; passing a graff are the 
 smiths forges, where they are continualy at work on ankers and iron 
 work. Neere it is a well of fresh water, which they impute to two 
 rhinoceros's horns which they say lie in it and will preserve it from 
 ever being empoison'd. Then we came to where the carpenters were 
 building their magazines of oares, masts, &c. for an hundred gallys and 
 ships, which have all their aparell and furniture neere them. Then the 
 founderie, where they cast ordinance ; the forge is 450 paces long, and 
 one of them has thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon weighing 
 16,573 lbs. cast whilst Henry the Third dined, and put into a gaily 
 built, rigg'd, and fitted for launching within that time. They have also 
 armes for 12 galeasses, which are vessells to rowe, of almost 150 foote 
 long and 30 wide, not counting prow or poop, and contain 28 banks of 
 oares, each 7 men, and to carry 1300 men, with 3 masts. In another 
 a magazin for 50 gallys, and place for some hundreds more. Here 
 stands the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so contriv'd that 
 the slaves are not seene, having on the poop a throne for the Doge to 
 tit, when he gos in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. Here is also a 
 gallery of 200 yards long for cables, and over that a magazine of hemp. 
 
 1 St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua. La^sells. p. 430. 
 
l68 THE ARSENAL ; GRIMANI'S PALACE ; CHURCH OF ST. ZACHARY. 
 
 Over against these are their saltpetre houses, and a large row of cells 
 or houses to protect their gallies from the weather. Over the gate as 
 we go out, is a roome full of greate and small guns, some of which dis- 
 charge six times at once. Then there is a court full of can'on, bullets, 
 chaines, grapples, granados, &c. and over that armes for 800,000 men- 
 and by themselves armes for 400 taken from some that were in a plot 
 against the State ; together with weapons of offence and defence for 62 
 ships ; 32 pieces of ordnance on carriages taken from the Turks, and 
 one prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, 'tis not to be reckoned up 
 what this. large place containes of this sort. There were now 23 gallys, 
 and 4 gally-grossi of 100 oares of a side. The whole Arsenal is wall'd 
 about and may be in compasse about 3 miles, with 12 towres for the 
 watch, besides that the sea invirons it. The workmen, who are ordi- 
 narily 500, march out in military order, and every evening receive theil 
 pay thro' a small hole in the gate where the Governor lives. 
 
 The next day I saw a wretch executed who had murther'd his master, 
 for which he had his head chop'd off by an axe that slid down a frame 
 of timber,' between the two tall columns in St. Mark's Piazza at the sea 
 brink ; the executioner striking on the axe with a beatle, and so the 
 head fell off the block. 
 
 Hence by Gudala we went to see Grimani's Palace, the portico 
 whereof is excellent work. Indeed the world cannot shew a Citty of 
 more stately buildings considering the extent of it, all of square stone, 
 and as chargeable in their foundations, as superstructure, being all built 
 on piles at an immense cost. We return'd home by the Church of St. 
 Johanne and Paulo, before which is in coper the statue of Bartolomeo 
 Colone on horseback, double gilt, on a statety pedestal, the work of 
 And. Verrochio, a Florentine. This is a very fine Church, and has in 
 it many rare altar pieces of the best masters, especialy that on the left 
 hand of the Two Friers slaine, which is of Titian. 
 
 The day after, being, Sunday, I went over to St. George's to the cere- 
 monie of the schismatic Greekes, who are permitted to have their 
 Church, tho' they are at defiance with Rome. They allow no carved 
 images, but many painted, especialy the story of their patron and his 
 dragon. Their rites differ not much from the Latines, save that oi 
 communicating in both species, and distribution of the holy bread. 
 We afterwards fell into dispute with a Candiot concerning the proces- 
 sion of the Holy Ghost. The Church is a noble fabric. 
 
 The Church of St. Zachary is of Greeke building, by Leo the 4th 
 Emp. and has in it the bones of that prophet with divers other Saints. 
 Neere this we visited St. Luke's, famous for the tomb of Aretine.' 
 
 1 The maiden at Halifax, in Yorkshire, and the guillotine in France. 
 8 This epitaph has been made for this Satyrist and Atheist : 
 
 Here lies the man who no man spared, I Nor God himself had better farod^ 
 
 When the angry ht was on him ; ) If Aretine had known him. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 169 
 
 Tuesday we visited severall other Churches, as Santa Maria, newly 
 incrusted with marble on the outside, and adorned with porphyrie, 
 ophit, and Spartan stone. Neere the altar and under the organ are 
 sculptures, that are said to be of the famous artist Praxiteles. To that 
 of St. Paul I went purposely to see the tomb of Titian. Then to St. 
 John the Evangelist, where amongst other heroes lies Andr. Baldarius, 
 the inventor of oares applied to greate vessells for fighting. 
 
 We also saw St. Roch, the roofe whereof is, with the school or hall 
 of that rich confraternity, admirably painted by Tintoret, especialy the 
 Crncifix in the sacristia. We saw also the Church of St. Sebastian^ 
 and Carmelites monasterie. 
 
 Next day taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I pass'd to the Island of 
 St. George Maggiore, where is a Convent of Benedictines, and a well 
 built Church by Andrea Palladio, the greate architect. The pavement, 
 cupola, choire, and pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The cloyster 
 has a fine garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, tho' this is an 
 island a little distant from the Cittie ; it has also an olive orchard all 
 inviron'd by the sea. The new cloyster now building has a noble 
 stayrecase paVd with white and black marble. 
 
 From hence we visited St. Spirito and St. Laurence, faire Churches 
 in severall islands ; but most remarkable is that of the Padri Olivetani 
 in St. Helen's island, for the rare paintings and carvings, with inlay'd 
 work, &c. 
 
 The next morning we went againe to Padoa, where next day we 
 visited the market, which is plentifully furnish 'd and exceedingly cheape. 
 Here we saw the greate hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of the 
 most magnificent in Europe ; its ascent is by steps a good height, of 
 a reddish marble polish'd, much us'd in these parts and happly found 
 not far off ; 'tis almost 200 paces long and 40 in breadth, all cover'd 
 with lead, without any support of columns. At the farther end stands 
 the bust in white marble of Titus Livius the historian. In this town is 
 the house wherein he was borne, full of inscriptions and pretty faire. 
 
 Neere to the monument of Speron Speronii, is painted on the cieling 
 the celestial zodiaq and other astronomical figures ; without side there 
 is a corridor in manner of a balcony, of the same stone ; and at the 
 entrie of each of the three gates is the head of some famous person, as 
 Albert Eremitano, Jul. PauUo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the 
 piazza is the Podesta and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built ; but 
 above all the Monte Pietk, the front whereof is of most excellent archi- 
 tecture ; this is a foundation of which there is one in most of the Citties 
 in Italy, where there is a continual banq of mony to assist the poorer 
 sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, together with magazines 
 for deposit of goods till redeemed. 
 
 Hence to the Scholes of this flourishing and ancient University, espe- 
 cialy for the studie of physic and anatomie. They are fairly built in 
 
170 MATRICULATK AT PADUA. THE EARLE OF ARUNDEL. 
 
 quadrangle, with cloysters beneath, and above with columns. Over 
 the greate gate are the armes of the Venetian State, and under the lion 
 of St. Marc : 
 
 " Sic ingredere et teipso quotidie doctior ; sic egredere ut indies 
 Patrise Christianjeq ; Reipublicse utilior evadas ; ita demum Gymna- 
 sium a te felicitfer ornatiim existimabit. CID.IX." 
 
 About the court walls are carv'd in stone and painted the blazons of 
 the Consuls of all the nations that from time to time have had that 
 charge and honor in the Universitie, which at my being there was my 
 worthy friend Dr. Rogers, who here tooke that degree. 
 
 The scholes for the lectures of the severall sciences are above, but 
 none of them comparable, or so much frequented as the theatre for 
 anatomic, which is excellently contriv'd both for the dissector and spec- 
 tators. I was this day invited to dinner, and in the afternoone (being 
 30 July) received my UTatricula, being resolved to spend some moneths 
 here at study, especialy physic and anatomie, of both which there was 
 now the most famous professors in Europe. My Matricula contained 
 a clause, that I, my goods, servants, and messengers, should be free 
 from all toll and reprises, and that we might come, pass, return, buy or 
 sell, without any toll, &c. 
 
 The next morning I went to see the Garden of Simples, rarely fur- 
 nish'd with plants, and gave order to the gardener to make me a col- 
 lection of them for an hortus hyemalis, by permission of the Cavalier 
 Dr. Vestlingius, who was then Prefect and Botanic Professor as well as 
 of Anatomie. 
 
 Next morning the Earle of Arundel,' now in this Citty, a famous 
 collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me to go with him to see 
 the Garden of Mantua, where as one enters stands a huge colosse of 
 Hercules. From hence to a place where was a roome cover'd with a 
 noble cupola, built purposely for musiq ; the fillings up, or cove 'twixt 
 the walls were of urnes and earthen pots for the better sounding ; it was 
 also well painted. After dinner we walked to the Palace of Foscari all' 
 Arena, there remaining yet some appearances of an ancient theater, 
 tho' serving now for a court onely before the house. There were now 
 kept in it two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheepe, a stag, and sundry 
 foules, as in a vivarie. 
 
 Three days after, I retum'd to Venice, and pass'd over to Murano 
 famous for the best glasses of the world, where having viewed their 
 furnaces and seene their worke, I made a collection of divers curiosities 
 and glasses, which I sent for England by long sea. 'Tis the white 
 flints which they have from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceed- 
 ingly small and mix with ashes made of a sea-weede brought out of 
 
 1 The celebrated Thomas Earl of Arundel, part of whose collection was eventually procured 
 for the University of Oxford by Mr. Evelyn, and is distinguished by the name oi Martnortk 
 Antndtliana^ 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, I71 
 
 Syria, and a white sand, that causes this manufacture to excell. The 
 Towne is a Podestaria by itselfe, at some miles distant on the sea from 
 Venice, and like it built upon severall small islands. In this place are 
 excellent oysters, small and well tasted like our Colchester, and they 
 were the first, as I remember, that I ever could eate, for I had naturally 
 an aversion to them. 
 
 At our returne to Venice we met several gondolas full of Venetian 
 ladys, who come thus far in fine weather to take the aire, with musiq 
 and other refreshments. Besides that Murano is itselfe a very nobly 
 built Towne, and has divers noblemen's palaces in it and very hand- 
 some gardens. 
 
 In coming back we saw the Hands of St. Christopher and St. Michael, 
 the last of which has a Church inrich'd and incrusted with marbles and 
 other architectonic ornaments, which the Menkes very courteously 
 shew'd us. It was built and founded by M argaret ^miliana of Verona, 
 a famous courtezan, who purchased a greate estate, and by this founda- 
 tion hoped to commute for her sins. We then rowed by the lies of St. 
 Nicholas, whose Church with the monuments of the Justinian family 
 entertain'd us awhile ; and then got home. 
 
 The next morning Capt. Powell, in whose ship I was to embark 
 towards Turkey, invited me on board, lying about 10 miles from Venice, 
 where we had a dinner of English pouder'd beefe and other good meate 
 with store of wine and greate gunns, as the manner is. After dinner 
 the Captaine presented me with a stone he lately brought from 
 Grand Cairo, which he tooke from the Mummy-pitts, full of hierogly- 
 phics ; I drew it on paper with the true dimensions, and sent it in a 
 letter to Mr. Henshaw to com'unicate to Father Kircher, who was then 
 setting forth his greate work Obeliscus Pajnfhilius, where it is described, 
 but without mentioning my name. The stone was afterwards brought 
 for me into England and landed at Wapping, where before I could 
 heare of it, it was broken into severall fragments and utterly defaced, 
 to my no small disappointment. 
 
 The boatswaine of the ship also gave me a hand and foote of a 
 mummy, the nailes whereof had been overlaid with thin plates of gold, 
 and the whole body was perfect when he brought it out of Egypt, but 
 the avarice of the ship's crue broke it to pieces and divided the body 
 among them. He presented me also with two Egyptian idols, and 
 some loaves of the bread which the Coptics use in the Holy Sacrament, 
 with other curiosities. 
 
 8 August. I had newes from Padoa of my election to be Syndiait 
 Artistarum, which caused me after two days idling in a country villa 
 with the Consul of Venice, to hasten thither, that I might discharge my 
 selfe of that honour, because it was not only chargeable, but would have 
 hindred my progresse, and they chose a Dutch gentleman in my place, 
 which did not well please my countrymen, who had labour'd not a little 
 
172 HONOURED AT PADUA. RARE COLLECTION OF SIGN. RUGINI. 
 
 to do me the greatest honour a stranger is capable of in that Univer- 
 sitie. Being freed from this impediment, and having tal-cen leave of 
 Dr. Janicius, a Polonian, who was going physician in the Venetian 
 gallys to Candy, I went againe to Venice, and made a collection of 
 several! books and some toys. Three days after, I return 'd to Padoa, 
 where I studied hard till the arrival of Mr. Henshaw, Bramstone, and 
 some other English gentlemen whom I had left at Rome, and who 
 made me go back with them to Venice, where I spent some time in 
 shewing them what I had seene there. 
 
 26 Sept. My dear friend, and till now my constant fellow traveller, 
 Mr. Thicknesse, being obliged to returne to England upon his parti- 
 cular concerne, and who had served his Majesty in the warrs, I accom- 
 panied him part of his way, and on the 28th returned to Venice. 
 
 29. Michaelmas day, I went with my Lord Mowbray (eldest son to 
 the Earle of Arundell and a most worthy person) to see the collection 
 of a noble Venetian, Sign. Rugini. He has a stately Palace richly 
 furnish'd with statues and heads of Roman Emperors, all plac'd in an 
 ample roome. In the next was a cabinet of medals, both Latin and 
 Greek, with divers curious shells and two faire pearles in two of them ; 
 but above all he abounded in things petrified, wallnuts, eggs in which 
 the yealk rattl'd, a peare, a piece of beefe with the bones in it, an whole 
 hedge-hog, a plaice on a wooilen trencher turn'd into stone and very 
 perfect, charcoale, a morsel of cork yet retaining its levitie, sponges, 
 and a piece of taffety part roU'd up, with innumerable more. In 
 another cabinet supported by 12 pillars of Oriental achat and rail'd 
 about with chrystal, he shew'd us severall noble intaglias of achat, 
 especialy a head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath with her dog, some rare 
 cornelians, onixes, chrystals, &c. in one of which was a drop of water 
 not congeal'd, but moving up and down when shaken ; above all, a 
 diamond which had a very faire rubie growing in it ; divers pieces of 
 amber wherein were several insects, in particular one cut like an heart 
 that contained in it a salamander without the least defect, and many 
 pieces of Mosaic. The fabriq of this cabinet was very ingenious, set 
 thick with achats, turquoises, and other precious stones, in the midst of 
 which was an antiq of a dog in stone scratching his eare, very rarely 
 cut and comparable to the greatest curiositie I had ever seene of that 
 kind for the accuratenesse of the work. The next chamber had a bed- 
 stead all inlay'd with achats, chrystals, cornelians, lazuli, &c. esteemed 
 worth 16,000 crownes ; but for the most part the bedsteads in Italy are 
 of forged iron gilded, since it is impossible to keepe the wooden ones 
 from the chimices. 
 
 From hence I returned to Padoa, when that towne was so infested 
 with souldiers that many houses were broken open in the night, some 
 murders comitted, and the nunns next our lodging disturb'd, so as we 
 were forc'd to be on our guard with pistols and other fire-armes to 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 173 
 
 defend our doores ; and indeede the students themselves take a barba- 
 rous Uberty in the evenings when they go to their strumpets, to stop all 
 that passe by the house where any of their companions in folly are with 
 them ; this costome they call Chi vali, so as the streetes are dangerous 
 when the evenings grow dark ; nor is it easy to reforme this intoUerable 
 usage where there are so many strangers of severall nations. 
 
 Using to drink my wine cool'd with snow and ice, as the manner 
 here is, I was so afflicted with an angina and scare-throat that it had 
 almost cost me my life. After all the remedies Cavalier Vestlingius, 
 cheife professor here, could apply, old Salvatico (that famous physician) 
 being call'd made me be cupp'd and scarified in the back in foure 
 places, which began to give me breath, and consequently life, for I was 
 in the utmost danger ; but God being mercifull to me, I was after a 
 fortnight abroad againe, when changing my lodging I went over against 
 Pozzo Pinto, where I bought for winter provision 3000 weight of excel- 
 lent grapes, and pressed my owne wine, which proved incomparable 
 liquor. 
 
 10 Oct. Soon after came to visite me from Venice Mr. Henry 
 Howard, grandchild to the Earle of Arundel, Mr. Bramstone, son to the 
 Lord Cheif Justice, and Mr. Henshav/, with whom I went to another 
 part of the Citty to lodge neere St. Catherine's, over against the Monas- 
 terie of Nunns, where we hired the whole house and lived very nobly. 
 Here I learned to play on the theorba, taught by Sig. Dominico Bas- 
 sano, who had a daughter married to a Doctor of Laws, that played 
 and sung to nine severall instruments, with that skill and addresse as 
 few masters in Italy exceeded her ; she likewise compos'd divers 
 excellent pieces. I had never scene any play on the Naples viol before. 
 She presented me afterwards with two recitativos of hers, both words 
 and musiq. 
 
 31 Oct. Being my birth-day, the Nunns of St. Catharine's sent me 
 flowers of silk-work. We were very studious all this winter till Christ- 
 mas, when on twelfth day we invited all the English and Scotts in towne 
 to a feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably. 
 
 1646. In January Sign. Molino was chosen Doge of Venice, but the 
 extreame snow that fell, and the cold, hindered my going to see the 
 solemnity, so as I stirred not from Padoa till Shrovetide, when all the 
 world repaire to Venice to see the folly and madnesse of the Carnevall ; 
 the women, men, and persons of all conditions disguising themselves in 
 antiq dresses, with extravagant musiq and a thousand gambols, tra- 
 versing the streetes from house to house, all places being then 
 accessible and free to enter. Abroad, they fling eggs fiU'd with sweete 
 jvater, but sometimes not over sweete. They also have a barbarous 
 costome of hunting bulls about the streetes and piazzas, which is very 
 dangerous, the passages being generally narrow. The youth of the 
 severall wards and parishes contend in other masteries and pastimes, 
 
174 THE CARNIVAL AT VENICE, HOSPITALS OF PADUA. 
 
 SO that 'tis impossible to recount the universal madnesse of this place 
 during this time of licence. The greate banks are set up for those who 
 will play at bassett ; the comedians have liberty, and the operas are 
 open ; witty pasquils are thrown about, and the mountebanks have 
 their stages at every corner. The diversion which cheifely tooke me up 
 was three noble operas, where were excellent voices and musiq, the 
 most celebrated of which was the famous Anna Rencha, whom we 
 invited to a fish dinner after foure dales in Lent, when they had given 
 over at the theater. Accompanied with an eunuch whom she brought 
 with her, she entertain'd us with rare musiq, both of them singing to 
 an harpsichord. It growing late, a gentleman of Venice came for her 
 to shew her the gallys, now ready to sayle for Candia. This entertain- 
 ment produced a second, given us by the English Consul of the mer- 
 chants, inviting us to his house, where he had the Genoeze, the most 
 celebrated base in Italy, who was one of the late opera band. This 
 diversion held us so late as night, that conveying a gentlewoman who 
 had supped with us to her gondola at the usual place of landing, we 
 were shot at by two carbines from out another gondola in which was 
 a noble Venetian and his courtezan unwilling to be disturb'd, which 
 made us run in and fetch other weapons, not knowing what the matter 
 was, till we were informed of the danger we might incur by pursuing 
 it farther. Three days after this I tooke my leave of Venice, and went 
 to Padoa to be present at the famous Anatomie Lecture, which is 
 here celebrated with extraordinary apparatus, lasting almost a whole 
 moneth. During this time I saw a woman, a child, and a man dis- 
 sected with all the manual operations of the chirurgeon on the humane 
 body. The one was performed by Cavalier Vestlingius and Dr. Jo. 
 Athelsteinus Leonasnas, of whom I purchased those rare tables of 
 Veines and Nerves, and caus'd him to prepare a third of the Lungs, 
 Liver, and Nervi sexti par : with the Gastric Veines, which I sent into 
 England, and afterwards presented to the Royall Society, being the first 
 of that kind that had been seen there, and for aught I know in the 
 world, tho' afterwards there were others. When the Anatomie Lec- 
 tures, which were in the mornings, were ended, I went to see cures don 
 in the Hospitals ; and certainly as there are the greatest helps and the 
 most skilfull physitians, so there are the most miserable and deplorable 
 objects to exercise upon. Nor is there any, I should think, so power- 
 full an argument against the vice reigning in this licentious Country, as 
 to be spectator of the miserie these poore creatures undergo. They are 
 indeede very carefully attended, and with extraordinary charity. 
 2c March. I return'd to Venice, where I tooke leave of my friends. 
 
 22. I was invited to excellent English potted venison at Mr. Hobb- 
 son's, a worthy merchant. 
 
 23. I tooke my leave of the Patriarche and the Prince of Wirtem- 
 burg, and Mons. Grotius (son of the learned Hugo) now going a com- 
 
THE DiARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 175 
 
 mander to Candia, and in the afternoone receiv'd of Vandervoort my 
 merchant, my bills of exchange of 300 ducats for my journey. He 
 shew'd me his rare collection of Italian books, esteem'd very curiout 
 and of good value. 
 
 The next day I was conducted to the Ghetta, where the Jewes 
 dwell together as in a tribe or ward, where I was present at a marriage. 
 The bride was clad in white, sitting in a lofty chaire, and cover'd with 
 a white vaile ; then two old Rabbles joyned them together, one of 
 them holding a glasse of wine in his hand, which in the midst of the 
 ceremony, pretending to deliver to the woman, he let fall, the breaking 
 whereof was to signify the frailty of our nature, and that we must ex- 
 pect disasters and crosses amidst all enjoyments. This don, we had 
 a fine banquet, and were brought into the bride-chamber, where the 
 bed was dress'd up with flowers, and the counterpan strewed in workes. 
 At this ceremony we saw divers very beautifuU Portuguez Jewesses 
 with whom we had some conversation. 
 
 I went to the Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio his confessor, and 
 obtained his passe to serve me in the Spanish dominions, without which 
 I was not to travel, in this pompous form : 
 
 ' Don Caspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Senor Le 
 Lerena y Verazuza, Comendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago, 
 Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Civdad de Sevilla, 
 Gentilhombre de la Camara de S. M. su Azemilero Mayor, de su 
 Consejo, su Embaxador extraordinario a los Principes de Italia, y 
 Alemania, y a esta serenissima Republica de Venetia, &c. Haviendo 
 de partir de esta Ciudad para La Milan el Sig. Cavallero Evelyn Ingles, 
 con un Criado, mi han pedido Passa-porte para los Estatos de su M. 
 Le he mandado dar el presente, firmado de mi mano, y sellado con el 
 sello de mis armas, por el qual encargo a todos los menestros de S. M, 
 antes quien le presentase y a los que no lo son, supplico les dare passal 
 libramente sin permitir que se le haya vexacion alguna antes mandar 
 le las favor para continuar su viage. Fecho en Venecia a 24 del mes 
 de Marzo dell an'o 1646. Mar. de la Fuentes, &c.' 
 
 Having pack'd up my purchases of books, pictures, castes, treacle, 
 &c. (the making and extraordinary ceremonie whereof I had ben cu- 
 rious to observe, for 'tis extremely pompous and worth seeing) I de- 
 parted from Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller (the celebrated 
 Poet), now newly gotten out of England, after the Parliament had 
 extreamely worried him for attempting to put in execution the Com- 
 mission of Aray, and for which the rest of his CoUegues were hanged 
 by the Rebells. 
 
 The next day I tooke leave of my comrades at Padoa, and receiving 
 some directions from Dr. Salvatico as to the care of my health, I pre- 
 pared for my jolj-ney towards Milan. 
 
 It was Easter Monday that I was invited to breakfast at the Eaile of 
 
176 LEAVE VENICE. VINCENZA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS. 
 
 Arundel's'. I tooke my leave of him in his bed, where I left that greate 
 and excellent man in teares on some private discourse of crosses that 
 had befall'n his illustrious family, particularly the undutifuUnesse of his 
 Grandson Philip's turning Dominican Frier (since Cardinal of Norfolk), 
 and the miserie of his Countrie now embroil'd in civil war. He caus'd 
 his Gentleman to give me directions, all written with his owne hand, 
 what curiosities I should enquire after in my journey ; and so, enjoyn- 
 ing me to write sometimes to him, 1 departed. There stayed for me 
 below, Mr. Henry Howard (afterwards Duke of Norfolk), Mr. J. Digby, 
 son of Sir Kenelm Digby, and other gentlemen, who conducted me to 
 the coach. 
 
 The famous Lapidaries of Venice for false stones and pastes so as 
 to emulate the best diamonds, rubies, &c. were Marco Terrasso and 
 Gilbert. 
 
 An Accompt of what Bills of Exchange I tooke up at Venice since 
 my coming from Rome, till my departure from Padoa : ii August 
 1645 200, 7 Sept. 135, I October 100, 15 Jan. 1646 100, 23 April 300, 
 835 Ducati di Banco. 
 
 In company then with Mr. Waller, one Capt. Wray (son of Sir 
 Christopher, whose father had ben in armes against his Majesty, and 
 therefore by no meanes welcome to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and 
 learned man, we got that night to Vincenza, passing by the Eugan^an 
 hills, celebrated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples, which 
 we found growing about them. The wayes were something deepe, the 
 whole country flat and even as a bowling greene. The comon fields 
 lie square, and are orderly planted with fruite trees which the vines run 
 upon and embrace for many miles, with delicious streames creeping 
 along the ranges. 
 
 Vincenza is a Citty in the Marquisate of Treviso, yet appertaining 
 to the Venetians, full of gentlemen and splendid palaces, to which the 
 famous Palladio, borne here, has exceedingly contributed as having ben 
 the architect. Most conspicuous is the Hall of Justice ; it has a toure 
 of excellent work ; the lower pillars are of the first order ; those in the 
 three upper corridors are Doric ; under them are shops in a spacious 
 piazza. The hall was built in imitation of that at Padoa, but of a 
 nobler designe, a la moderna. The next morning we visited the Theater, 
 as being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and built by Pal- 
 ladio, in exact imitation of the ancient Romans, and capable of con- 
 taining 5000 spectators. The sceane, which is all of stone, represents 
 an imperial citty, the order Corinthian, decorated with statues. Over 
 the Scenario is incribed, ' Virtuti ac Genio Olympior : Academia The- 
 itrum hoc a fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect: 1584.' The sceane 
 
 1 Lassells, who travelled a short time after Mr. Evelyn, says, that the Earl died here, and 
 that his bowels are buried under a black marble stone, inscribed ' Interiora Thonue Howard 
 Comitis Arundeliae ' p. i2Q. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. I77 
 
 declines 1 1 foote, the suffito painted witli cloudes. To this there joynes 
 a spacious Hall for sollemn days to ballot in, and a second for the 
 Academics. In the Piazza is also the Podesta, or Governor's house, 
 the faciata being of the Corinthian order, very noble. The Piazza it- 
 selfe is so large as to be capable of justs and tournaments, the Nobility 
 of this Citty being exceedingly addicted to this knight errantry an^ 
 other martial diversions. In this place are two pillars in imitation of 
 those at St. Marc's at Venice, bearing one of them a winged lion, the 
 other the statue of St. Jo. Baptist. 
 
 In a word, this sweete Towne has more well-built Palaces than any 
 of its dimensions in all Italy, besides a number begun and not yet 
 finished (but of stately designe) by reason of the domestic dissentions 
 'twixt them and those of Brescia, fomented by the sage Venetians least 
 by combining they might think of recovering their ancient liberty. 
 For this reason also are permitted those dissorders and insolences 
 committed at Padoa among the youth of these two territories. It is 
 no dishonour in this country to be some generations in finishing their 
 palaces, that without exhausting themselves by a vast expence at once, 
 they may at last erect a sumptuous pile. Count Oleine's Palace is 
 neere perfected in this manner. Count Ulmarini is more famous for 
 his gardens, being without the walls, especialy his Cedrario or Conserve 
 of Oranges eleaven score of my paces long, set in order and ranges, 
 making a canopy all the way by their intermixing branches for more 
 than 200 of my single paces, and which being full of fruite and blos- 
 soms was a most delicious sight. In the middle of this garden was a 
 cupola made of wyre, supported by slender pillars of brick, so closely 
 cover'd with ivy, both without and within, that nothing was to be per- 
 ceived but greene ; 'twixt the arches there dangled festoones of the 
 same. Here is likewise a most inextricable labyrinth. 
 
 I had in this towne recommendation to a very civil and ingenious 
 apothecarie call'd Angelico, who had a pretty collection of paintings. 
 I would faine have visited a place caU'd the Rotunda, which was a 
 mile out of towne belonging to Count Martio Capra, but one of our 
 companions hasting to be gone, and little minding any thing save 
 drinking and foUy, which caus'd us to take coach sooner than we should 
 have done. 
 
 A little from the towne we pass'd the Campo Martio, set out in imi- 
 tation of ancient Rome, wherein the noblesse exercise their horses, and 
 the ladys make the Corso ; it is entred by a stately triumphal arch, the 
 invention of PaUadio. 
 
 Being now set out for Verona, about midway we din'd at Ostaria 
 Nova, and came late to our resting-place, which was the Cavaletto, 
 yust over the monument of the Scaligeri, formerly Princes of Verona, 
 adorn'd with devices in stone of ladders, alluding to the name 
 
 Early next morning we went about the Citty, which is built on the 
 
 12 
 
178 AMPHITHEATEK OF VERONA. JULIUS C^SAR SCALIGER. 
 
 gentle declivity and bottome of an hill, inviron'd in part with some 
 considerable mountaines and downes of fine grass like some places in 
 the South of England, and on the other side having the rich plaine 
 where Caius Marius overthrew the Cimbrians. The Citty is divided 
 in the midst by the river Athesis, over which are divers stately bridges, 
 and on its banks are many goodly palaces, whereof one is well 
 painted in chiaro oscuro on the outside, as are divers others in this 
 drie climate of Italy. 
 
 The first thing that engaged our attention and wonder too, was the 
 amphitheater, which is the most entire of ancient remaines now extant. 
 The inhabitants call it the Arena : it has two portico's, one within the 
 other, and is 34 rods long, 22 in bredth, with 42 ranks of stone benches 
 or seates which reach to the top. The vastnesse of the marble stones 
 is stupendious. ' L. V. Flaminia Consul, ano. urb. con. Llir.' This I 
 esteeme to be one of the noblest antiquities in Europ, it is so vast and 
 intire, having escaped the ruines of so many other public buildings for 
 above, 1400 yeares. 
 
 There are other arches, as that of the victorie of Marius ; temples, 
 aquasducts, &c. shewing still considerable remaines in severall places of 
 the towne and how magnificent it has formerly ben. It has three 
 strong castles, and a large and noble wall. Indeede the whole Citty is 
 bravely built, especialy the Senate-house where we saw those cele- 
 brated statues of Cornelius Nepos, Emilius Marcus, Plinius and Vi- 
 truvius, all having honoured Verona by their birth, and of later date 
 Julius Csesar Scaliger, that prodigie of learning. 
 
 In the evening we saw the garden of Count Giusti's villa, where are 
 walkes cut out of the maine rock, from whence we had the pleasant 
 prospect of Mantua and Parma, though at greate distance. At the en- 
 trance of this garden growes the goodliest cypresse I fancy in Europ, 
 cut in pyramid ; 'tis a prodigious tree both for breadth and height, en- 
 tirely cover'd and thick to the base. 
 
 Dr. Cortone, a Civilian, shew'd us amongst other rarities a St. Doro- 
 thea of Raphael. We could not see the rare drawings, especialy of 
 Parmensis, belonging to Dr. Marcello, another advocate, on account of 
 his absence. . 
 
 This Citty deserv'd all those elogies Scaliger has honoured it with, 
 for in my opinion the situation is the most delightfull I ever saw, it is 
 so sweetly mixed with rising ground and vallies, so elegantly planted 
 •with trees on which Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every 
 autumn, for the vines reach from tree to tree ; here of all places I have 
 scene in Italy would I fix a residence. Well has that learn'd man 
 given it the name of the very eye of the world : — 
 Ocelle mundi, Sidus Itali cceli, 
 Flos Urbium, flos corniculumq' amaenum, 
 Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVjiLYN. 179 
 
 The next morning we travell'd over the downes where Marius fought, 
 and fancied ourselves about Winchester and the country towards Dor 
 setshire. We dined at an inn called Cavalli Caschieri, neere Peschiera, 
 a very strong fort of the Venetian Republic, and neere the Lago di 
 Garda, which disembogues into that of Mantua, neere 40 miles in 
 length, highly spoken of by my Lord Arundel to me, as the most plea- 
 sant spot in Italy, for which reason I observ'd it with the more dili- 
 gence, alighting out of the coach and going up to a grove of cypresses 
 growing about a gentleman's country house, from whence indeede it 
 presents a most surprizing prospect. The hills and gentle risings about 
 it produce oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other tempting fruits, and 
 the waters abound in excellent fish, especialy troutts. In the middle of 
 this lake stands Sermonea on an island ; here Capt. Wray bought a 
 pretty nag of the master of our inn where we dined, for eight pistoles, 
 vifhich his wife, our hostesse, was so unwilling to part with, that she 
 did nothing but kisse and weepe and hang about the horse's neck tiU 
 the captaine rid away. 
 
 We came this evening to Brescia, which next morning we traverst 
 according to our custom in search of antiquities and new sights. Here 
 I purchas'd of old Lazarino Cominazzo my fine carabine, which cost 
 me 9 pistoles, this Citty being famous for these fire-armes, and that 
 workman, with Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteem'd. This Citty consists 
 most in artists, every shop abounding in gunns, swords, armorers, &c. 
 Most of the workmen come out of Germanic. The Citty stands in a 
 fertile plaine, yet the Castle is built on an hill. The streetes abound 
 in faire fountaines. The Torre della Pallada is of a noble Tuscan 
 Order, and the Senate-house is inferior to few. The Piazza is but 
 indifferent ; some of the houses arched as at Padoa. The Cathedrall 
 was under repaire. We would from hence have visited Parma, Pia- 
 cenza, Mantua, &c. but the banditti and other dangerous parties being 
 abroad, committing many enormities, we were content with a Pisgah 
 sight of them. 
 
 We din'd next day at Ursa Vecchia, and after dinner pass'd by an 
 exceeding strong fort of the Venetians cal'd Ursa Nova, on their fron- 
 tier. Then by the river Oglio and so by Sonano, where we enter the 
 Spanish dominions, and that night ariv'd at Crema, which belongs to 
 Venice, and is well defended. The Podesta's Palace is finely built, 
 and so is the Domo or Cathedral and the Tower to it, with an ample 
 Piazza. 
 
 Early next day, after 4 miles riding, we enter'd into the State of 
 Milan, and pass'd by Lodi, a greate Citty famous for cheese little short 
 of the best Parmeggiano. We din'd at Marignano, 10 miles before 
 coming to Milan, where we met halfe a dozen suspicious Cavaliers, who 
 yet did us no harme. Then passing as through a continual garden, 
 we went on with exceeding pleasure, for it is the paradise of Lombardy. 
 
l8o AT MILAN. THE CATHEDRALS. PALACE OK ARCHBISHOP. 
 
 the highways as even and straite as a line, the fields to a vast extent 
 planted with fruit about the inclosures, vines to every tree at equal 
 distances, and water'd with frequent streames. There was likewise 
 much come, and olives in aboundance. At approch of the Citty some 
 of our company, in dread of the Inquisition (severer here than in all 
 Spain), thought of throwing away some Protestant books and papers. 
 We ariv'd about 3 in the afternoone, when the officers search'd us tho- 
 roughly for prohibited goods, but finding we were onely gentlemen tra- 
 vellers, dismiss'd us for a small reward, and we went quietly to our inn, 
 the Three Kings, where for that day we refreshed ourselves, as we had 
 neede. The next morning we delivered our letters of recommendation 
 to the learned and courteous Ferrarius, a Doctor of the Ambrosian 
 College, who conducted us to all the remarkable places of the towne, 
 the first of which was the famous Cathedral. We enter'd it by a por- 
 tico so little inferior to that of Rome, that when it is finished it will be 
 hard to say which is the fairest ; the materials are all of white and 
 black marble, with columns of great height of Egyptian granite. The 
 outside of the Church is so full of sculpture, that you may number 
 4000 statues all of white marble, amongst which that of St. Bartholo- 
 mew is esteemed a masterpiece. The Church is very spacious, almost 
 as long as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. About the Quire the 
 sacred storie is finely sculptured in snow-white marble, nor know I 
 where it is exceeded. About the body of the Church are the miracles 
 of St. Char. Boromeo, and in the vault beneath is his body before the 
 high altar, grated, and inclos'd in one of the largest chrystals in Europe. 
 To this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is all of marble 
 within and without, and even cover'd with great planks of marble, in 
 the Gotick designe. The windows are most beautifully painted. Here 
 are two very faire and excellent organs. The fabriq is erected in the 
 midst of a faire Piazza, and in the center of the Citty. 
 
 Hence we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which is a quad- 
 rangle, the architecture of Theobaldi, who design'd much for Philip II. 
 in the Escurial, and has built much in Milan. Hence I went into the 
 Governor's Palace, who was Constable of Castile ; tempted by the 
 glorious tapissries and pictures, I adventur'd so far alone, that peeping 
 into a chamber where the greate man was under the barber's hands, he 
 sent one of his Negro's (a slave) to know what I was ; I made the best 
 excuse I could, and that I was only admiring the pictures, which he 
 returning and telling his lord, I heard the Governor reply that I was a 
 spie, on which I retir'd with all the speede I could, pass'd the guard of 
 Swisse, got into the streete, and in a moment to my company, who 
 were gone to the Jesuites Church, which in truth is a noble structure, 
 the front especialy, after the moderne. After dinner we were conducted 
 to St. Celso, a church of rare architecture, built by Bramante ; the 
 carvings of the marble faciata are by Hannibal Fontana, whom they 
 
THE DIARY Or JOHN EVELYN. l8i 
 
 esteeme at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In a roome 
 joyning to the Church is a marble Madona like a Colosse, of the sam? 
 sculptor's work, which they will not expose to the aire. There are tw* 
 Sacristias, in one of which is a fine Virgin of Leonardo da Vinci, in 
 the other is one by Raphael d'Urbino, a piece which all the world 
 admires. The Sacristan shew'd us a world of rich plate, Jewells, and 
 embroder'd copes, which are kept in presses. 
 
 Next we went to see the Create Hospital, a quadrangular Cloyster of 
 a vast compasse, a truly royal fabric, with an annual endowment of 
 50,000 crowns of gold. There is in the middle of it a crosse building 
 for the sick, and just under it an altar so plac'd as to be seene in aU 
 places of the Infirmarie. 
 
 There are divers Colleges built in this quarter, richly provided for by 
 the same Borromeo and his nephew the last Cardinal Frederico, some 
 not yet finish'd, but of excellent designe. 
 
 In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodyes of the 3 Magi, 
 since translated to Colin (Cologne) in Germany ; they however pre- 
 serve the tomb, which is a square stone, on which is engraven a star, 
 and under it, " Sepulchrum trium Magorum." 
 
 Passing by St. Laurence we saw 16 columns of marble, and the ruins 
 ■of a Temple of Hercules, with this inscription yet standing : 
 
 Imp. Cassari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medico Parthico Max. 
 Trib. Pot. VII. Imp. IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi Ha- 
 driani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro Nepoti Divi Nervas Abnepoti 
 Dec. Dec. 
 
 We concluded this day's wandring at the Monaster! e of Madona 
 della Gratia, and in the Refectorie admir'd that celebrated Ccena Domini 
 of Leonardo da Vinci, which takes up the intire wall at the end, and is 
 the same that the greate Virtuoso Francis the First of France was so 
 enamour'd of, that he consulted to remove the whole wall by binding 
 it about with ribs of iron and timber to convey it into France. It i;j 
 indeede one of the rarest paintings that was ever exeiwted by Leonardo, 
 who was long in the service of that Prince, and so deare to him that the 
 King coming to visite him in his old age and sicknesse, he expired in 
 his armes. This incomparable piece is now exceedingly impair'd. ' 
 
 Early next morning came the learned Dr Ferarius to visite us, and 
 took us in his coach to see the Ambrosian Lihrane, wnere Cardinal 
 Fred. Borromeo has expended so vast a sum on this building aiid in 
 furnishing with curiosities, especialy paintings and ara wings of inesti- 
 
 1 It is not noticed in the Painter's Voyage of Italv.published 1679, probably from its decay. 
 Tlie painting is still there, but having been often retouched, on account of the dampness of 
 the wall, is certainly not what it once was. The picture has been again drawn into notice in 
 England from the magnificent print of it lately engraved in Italy by Raphael Morghen, which is 
 esteemed one of the finest works of art in this kind that has ever been executed. There is also 
 an old engraving from it by Peter Soutman, but which by no means exhibits a true delineation 
 6f the characters of the piece, as designed by Leonardo. 
 
l82 BEAUTY, SITUATION, STRENGTH, AND EXTENT OF MILAN. 
 
 mable value amongst painters. It is a schole fit to make the ablest 
 astists. There are many rare things of Hans Breugill, and amongst 
 them the Four Elements. In this room stands the glorious [boasting] 
 inscription of Cavaliero Galeazzo Arconati, valueing his gift to the 
 librarie of severall drawings by Da Vinci, but these we could not see, 
 the keeper of them being out of towne and he always carrying the keys 
 with him ; but my Lord Martial, who had seene them, told me all but 
 one booke are small, that an huge folio contain'd 400 leaves full ot 
 scratches of Indians, &c. but whereas the inscription pretends that our 
 King Charles had offer'd ^.1000 for them, the truth is, and my Lord 
 himselfe told me, that it was he who treated with Galeazzo for himselfe 
 in the name and by permission of the King, and that the Duke of Feria, 
 who was then Governour, should make the bargain : but my Lord 
 having seene them since, did not think them of so much worth. 
 
 In the great roome, where is a goodly librarie, on the right hand of 
 the doore is a small wainscot closset furnish'd with rare manuscripts. 
 Two original letters of the Grand Signer were shew'd us, sent to two 
 Popes, one of which was (as I remember) to Alexander VI. (Borgia), 
 and the other mentioning the head of the launce which pierc'd our B. 
 Saviour's side sent as a present to the Pope : I would faine have gotten a 
 copy of them, but could not; I hear,however, that they aresince translated 
 into Italian, and therein is a most honourable mention of Christ. 
 
 We revisited St. Ambrose's Church. The high altar is supported by 
 4 porphyrie columns, and under it lie the remaines of that holy man. 
 Neere it they shew'd us a pit or well (an obscure place it is) where they 
 say St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine and recited the TV Deum, for 
 so imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some Councils 
 that have ben held here, and for the coronation of divers Italian Kings 
 and Emperors, receiving the Iron Crown from the Archbishop of this 
 see. They shew the History by Josephus written on the bark of trees. 
 The high altar is wonderfully rich. 
 
 Milan is one of the most princely Citties in Europe : it has no 
 suburbs, but is circled with a stately wall for 10 miles, in the center of 
 a country that seemes to flow with milk and bony. The aire is excellent ; 
 the fields fruitful! to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of 
 provisions. In the Citty are neere 100 Churches, 71 Monasteries, 
 40,000 inhabitants ; it is of a circular figure, fortified with bastions, fult 
 of sumptuous palaces and rare artists, especialy for works in chrystal, 
 which is here cheape, being found among the Alpes. They are curious 
 straw worke among the nunns, even to admiration. It has a good 
 river, and a citadell at some small distance from the Citty, commanding 
 it, of greate strength for its works and munition of all kinds. It was 
 built by Galeatius II. and consists of 4 bastions, and works at the 
 angles and fronts ; the graff is fac'd with brick to a very great depth ; 
 has 3 strong towres as one enters, and wiVnin is another foit and 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 183 
 
 spacious lodgings for the souldiers and for exercising them. No 
 accommodation for strength is wanting, and all exactly uniforme. They 
 have here also all sorts of work and tradesmen, a greate magazine of 
 armes and provisions. The fosse is of spring water with a mill for 
 grinding corn, and the ramparts vaulted underneath. Don Juan Vas- 
 quez Coronada was now Governor ; the garrison Spaniards onely. 
 
 There is nothing better worth seeing than the collection of Sig. 
 Septalla,' a canon of St. Ambrose, famous over Christendome for his 
 learning and virtues. Amongst other things he shew'd us an Indian 
 wood that has the perfect scent of civet ; a flint or pebble, that has a 
 quantity of water in it, which is plainly to be seen, it being cleare as 
 achat ; divers chrystals that have water moving in them, some of them 
 having plants, leaves, and hogs bristles in them ; much amber full of 
 insects, &c. and divers things of woven amianthus.^ 
 
 Milan is a sweete place, and tho' the streetes are narrow they abound 
 in rich coaches, and are full of noblesse, who frequent the course every 
 night. Walking a turn in the Portico before the Dome, a cavaliero 
 who pass'd by hearing some of us speaking English, looked a good 
 while earnestly on us, and by and by sending his servant desir'd we 
 would honour him the next day at dinner. We looked on this as an odd 
 invitation, he not speaking to us himselfe, but we returned his civilitie 
 with thanks, tho' not fully resolv'd what to do, or indeed what might 
 be the meaning of it in this jealous place ; but on enquirie 'twas told us 
 he was a Scots Colonel who had an honorable command in the Citty, 
 so that we agreed to go. This afternoon we were wholly taken up in | 
 seeing an opera represented by some Neapolitans, performed all in | 
 most excellent music with rare sceanes, in which there acted a cele- , 
 brated beauty. 
 
 Next morning we went to the Colonel's, who had sent his servant 
 ftgaine to conduct us to his house, which we found to be a noble palace 
 richly furnish'd. There were other guests, all souldiers, one of them a 
 Scotchman, but we could not learn one of their names. At dinner he 
 excus'd his rudenesse that he had not himselfe spoken to us, telling us 
 it was his custome when he heard of any English travellers (who but 
 larely would be knowne to passe thro' that Citty for feare of the 
 Inquisition) to invite them to his house, where they might be free. 
 We had a sumptuous dinner, and the wine was so tempting that after 
 some healths had gon about, and we had risen from table, the Colonel 
 
 * The Painter's Voyage particularizet 85 pictures in this Collection, but few of them by 
 great Masters. 
 
 * There are two descriptive Catalogues of the Museum ; in its day, one of the most cele, 
 Drated in all Italy ; both are in small quarto, the one in Latin, the later and most complete 
 one in Italian. To this is prefixed a large inside view of the Museum, exhibiting its curioui 
 contents of busts, statues, pictures, urns, and every kind of rarity natural and artificial. 
 
 Keysler in his Travels laments the not being able to see it, on account of a law-suit then 
 depending.'and it has been long since dispersed, probably in consequence of it. 
 
l84 HOSPITALITY OF THE SCOTCH COLONEL. ACCIDENT— HIS DEATH. 
 
 led US into his hall, where there hung up divers colours, saddles, 
 bridles, pistols, and other armes, being trophies which he had taken 
 with his owne hands from the enemy ; amongst them he would needs 
 bestow a paire of pistols on Capt. Wray, one of our fellow-travellers 
 and a good drinking gentleman, and on me a Turkish bridle woven 
 with silk and very curiously emboss'd, with other silk trappings, to 
 which hung a halfe moone finely wrought, which he had taken from a 
 basshaw whom he had slaine. With this glorious spoile I rid the rest 
 of my journey as far as Paris, and brought it afterwards into England. 
 He then shew'd us a stable of brave horses, with his menage and 
 cavalerizzo. Some of the horses he caus'd to be brought out, which he 
 mounted, and performed all the motions of an excellent horseman. 
 When this was don, and he had alighted, contrary to the advice of 
 his groome and page, who knew the nature of the beast and that their 
 master was a little spirited with wine, he would have a fiery horse 
 that had not yet been menaged and was very ungovernable, but was 
 otherwise a very beautifuU creature ; this he mounting, the horse getting 
 the reines in a full carriere, rose so desperately that he fell quite back, 
 crushing the Colonell so forceably against the wall of the menage, that 
 tho' he sat on him like a Centaure, yet recovering the jade on all foure 
 againe, he desir'd to be taken down and so led in, where he cast him- 
 self on a pallet, and with infinite lamentations, after some time we 
 tooke leave of him being now speechlesse. The next morning going to 
 pisite him, we found before the doore the canopie which they usually 
 carry over the host, and some with lighted tapers, which made us 
 suspect he was in very sad condition, and so indeede we found him, 
 an Irish Frier standing by his bed side as confessing him, or at least 
 disguising a confession, and other ceremonies us'd in extremis, for we 
 afterwards learn'd that the gentleman was a Protestant and had this 
 Frier his confidant, which was a dangerous thing at Milan, had it ben 
 but suspected. At our entrance he sighed grievously and held up his 
 his hands, but was not able to speake. After vomiting some blood, he 
 kindly tooke us all by the hand, and made signes that he should see us 
 no more, wh'ch made us take our leave of him with extreame reluctancy 
 and affliction for the accident. This sad disaster made us consult 
 about our departure as soon as we could, not knowing how we might 
 be enquir'd after or engag'd, the Inquisition being so cruelly formidable 
 and inevitable on the least suspicion. The next morning, therefore, 
 discharging our lodgings, we agreed for a coach to carry us to the foote 
 of the Alpes, not a little concern'd for the death of the Colonell, which 
 we now heard of, and who had so courteously entertain'd us. 
 
 The first day we got as far as Castellanza, by which runs a consi- 
 derable river into Lago Maggiore ; here at dinner were two or three 
 Jesuites, who were very pragmatical and inquisitive, whom we declin'd 
 conversation with as decently as we could ; so we pursu'd our journey 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 185 
 
 thro' a most fruitful! plaine, but the weather was wet and uncomfort- 
 able. At night we lay at Sesto. 
 
 The next morning leaving our coach we embarked in a boate to 
 carry us over the Lake (being one of the largest in Europe) and whence 
 we could see the touring Alps, and amongst them the greate San Ber- 
 nardo, esteemed the highest mountaine in Europe, appearing to be 
 some miles above the clouds. Thro' this vast water passes the river 
 Ticinus, which discharges itselfe into the Po, by which meanes Hel- 
 vetia transports her merchandizes into Italy, which we now begin to 
 '^ave behind us. 
 
 Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hal'd ashore at Arona, 
 a strong towne belonging to the Dutchy of Milan, where being examin'd 
 by the Governor and paying a small duty, we were dismiss'd. Opposite 
 to this forte is Angiera, another small towne, the passage very pleasant 
 with the prospect of the Alps cover'd with pine and fir trees, and 
 above them snow. We pass'd the pretty Island Isabella,' about the 
 middle of the Lake, on which is a faire house built on a mount, indeede 
 the whole island is a mount ascended by several terraces and walks all 
 set about with orange and citron trees. 
 
 The next we saw was Isola,' and we left on our right hand the Isle 
 of St. Jovanni,' and so sailing by another small towne built also on an 
 island, we ariVd at night at Margazzo, an obscure village at the end of 
 the Lake, and at the very foote of the Alpes, which now rise as it were 
 suddenly after some hundreds of miles of the most even country in the 
 world, and where there is hardly a stone to be found,[as if Nature had 
 here swept up the rubbish of the Earth in the Alpes to forme and cleare 
 the Plaines of Lombardy,^which we had hitherto pass'd since our 
 coming from Venice. In this wretched place I lay on a bed stuff'd 
 with leaves, which made such a crackling, and did so prick my skin 
 thro' the tick, that I could not sleepe. The next morning I was fur- 
 nish'd with an asse, for we could not get horses ; instead of stirrups we 
 had ropes tied with a loope to put our feete in, which supplied the 
 place of other trappings. Thus with my gallant steed, bridled with my 
 Turkish present, we pass'd thro' a reasonably pleasant but very narrow 
 vaUey till we came to Duomo, where we rested, and having shew'd the 
 Spanish Passe, tht Governor would presse another on us that his 
 Secretary might get a croune. Here we exchang'd our asses for mules, 
 sure footed on the hills and precipices, being accustom'd to passe them ; 
 hiring a guide, we were brought that night thro' very steepe, craggy 
 and dangerous passages to a village called Vedra, being the last ef the 
 King of Spain's dominions in the Dutchy of Milan. We had a very 
 infamous wretched lodging. 
 
 The next morning we mounted again thro' strange, horrid and fear- 
 
 * These are called "the Borromean Islands in the Lago Maggiore, belonging to thd 
 ^eat Milanese family of Borromco." 
 
l86 ASCENT OF THE ALPS ; UGLY NATIVES ; MOUNT SAMPION. 
 
 full craggs and tracts, abounding in pine trees, and onely inhabited by 
 beares, wolves, and wild goates ; nor could we any where see above a 
 pistol shoote before us, the horizon being terminated with rocks and 
 mountaines, whose tops cover'd with snow seem'd to touch the skies, 
 and in many places pierced the clowdes. Some of these vast mountaines 
 were but one entire stone, 'twixt whose clefts now and then precipitated 
 greate cataracts of mealted snow and other waters, which made a ter- 
 rible roaring, echoing from the rocks and cavities ; and these waters in 
 some places breaking in the fall wett us as if we had pass'd through a 
 mist, so as we could neither see nor heare one another, but trusting to 
 our honest mules we jogged on our way. The narrow bridges in some 
 places made onely by felling huge fir trees and laying them athwart 
 from mountaine to mountaine over cataracts of stupendious depth, are 
 very dangerous, and so are the passages and edges made by cutting 
 away the maine rock ; others in steps ; and in some places we passe be- 
 tweene mountains that have ben broken and fallen on one another, which 
 is very terrible, and one had neede of a sure foote and steady head to 
 climb some of these precipices, besides that they are harbours for beares 
 and wolves who have sometimes assaulted travellers. In these straights 
 we frequently alighted, now freezing in the snow, and anon frying by 
 the reverberation of the sun against the cliffs as we descend lower, when 
 we meete now and then a few miserable cottages so built upon the de- 
 clining of the rocks as one would expect their sliding down. Amongst 
 these inhabite a goodly sort of people having monstrous gullets or 
 wenns of fleshe growing to their throats, some of which I have scene 
 as big as an hundred pound bag of silver hanging under their chinns, 
 among the women especialy, and that so ponderous as that to ease 
 them many wear linen cloth bound about their head and coming under 
 the chin to support it ; but quis tumidum guttur miratur in Alpibiis ? 
 Their drinking so much snow-water is thought to be the cause of it ; 
 the men using more wine are not so strumous as the women. The truth 
 is, they are a peculiar race of people, and many greate water drinkers 
 here have not these prodigious tumours ; it runs as we say in the bloud, 
 and is a vice in the race, and renders them so ugly, shrivel'd and de- 
 form'd by its drawing the skin of the face downe, that nothing can be 
 more fritefuU ; to this add a strange puffing dress, furrs, and the bar- 
 barous language, being a mixture of corrupt High German, French and 
 Italian. The people are of greate stature, extreamely fierce and rude, 
 yet very honest and trustie. 
 
 This night thro' almost unaccessible heights we came in prospect of 
 Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sampion, which has on its sum'it a 
 few huts and a chapell. Approaching this, Captaine Wray's water- 
 ipaniel (a huge filthy cur that had follow'd him out of England) hunted 
 an heard of goates downe the rocks into a river made by the melting of the 
 snnw. Ariv'd at our cold harbour (tho' the house had a stove in every 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. lij 
 
 rpome) and supping on cheese and milk with wretched wine, we went 
 to bed in cupbords so high from the floore that we climb'd them by a 
 ladder; we were covered with feathers, that is we lay between two ticks 
 stuff'd with them, and all little enough to keepe one warme. The 
 cieling of the rooms are strangely low for those tall people. The house 
 was now, in September, halfe cover'd with snow, nor is there a tree or 
 bush growing within many miles. 
 
 From this uncomfortable place we prepared to hasten away the next 
 morning, but as we were getting on our mules, comes a huge young 
 fellow demanding mony for a goat which he affirm'd that Capt. Wray's 
 dog had kill'd ; expostulating the matter and impatient of staying in the 
 cold, we set spurrs and endeavour'd to ride away, when a multitude of 
 people being by this time gotten together about us (for it being Sonday 
 morning and attending for the priest to say masse) they stopp'd oui 
 mules, beate us off our saddles, and disarming us of our carbines, drew 
 us into one of the roomes of our lodging, and set a guard upon us. Thus 
 we continu'd prisoners till masse was ended, and then came halfe a score 
 grim Swisse, who taking on them to be magistrates sate downe on the 
 table, and condemn'd us to pay a pistole for the goate and ten more for 
 attempting to ride away, threat'ning that if we did not pay it speedily, 
 they would send us to prison and keep us to a day of publiq justice, 
 where, as they perhaps would have exaggerated the crime, for they pre- 
 tended we had prim'd our carbines and would have shot some of them 
 (as indeede the Captaine was about to do) we might have had our heads 
 cut off, as we were told afterwards, for that amongst these rude people 
 a very small misdemeanor dos often meete that sentence. Tho' the 
 proceedings appear'd highly unjust on consultation among ourselves 
 we thought it safer to rid ourselves out of their hands and the trouble 
 we were brought into, and therefore we patiently layde downe the mony 
 and with fierce countenances had our mules and armes deliver'd to us, 
 and glad we were to escape as we did. This was cold entertainment 
 but our journey after was colder, the rest of the way having ben as they 
 told us cover'd with snow since the Creation ; no man remember'd it to 
 be without ; andbecause by the frequent snowing the tracts are continualy 
 fiU'd up, we passe by severall tall masts set up to guide travellers, so as 
 for many miles they stand in ken of one another like to our beacons. In 
 some places where there is a cleft between 2 mountaines the snow fills 
 it up, whilst the bottome being thaw'd leaves as it were a frozen arch of 
 snow, and that so hard as to beare the greatest weight ; for as it snows 
 often, so it perpetualy freezes, of which I was so sensible that it flaw'd 
 the very skin of my face. 
 
 Beginning now to descend a little, Capt. Wray's horse (that was our 
 sumpter and carried all our baggage) plunging thro' a bank of loose 
 snow slid downe a frightfuU precipice, which so incens'd the choleriq 
 cavalier his master that he was sending a brace of bullets into the poore 
 
l88 ERIGA; THE LAKE OF GENEVA; SION. 
 
 beast, least our guide should recover him and run away with his bur- 
 then ; but just as he was Hfting up his carbine we gave such a shout, 
 and so pelted the horse with snow-balls, as with all his might plunging 
 through the snow he fell from another steepe place into another bot- 
 tome neere a path we were to passe. It was yet a good while ere we 
 got to him, but at last we recovered the place, and easing him cf 
 his charge hal'd him out of the snow, where he had ben certainly 
 frozen in if we had not prevented it before night. It was as we judg'd 
 almost two miles that he had slid and fall'n, yet without any other 
 harme than the benuming of his limbs for the present, but with lusty 
 rubbing and chafing he began to move, and after a little walking per- 
 form'd his journey well enough. All this way, afifrited with the disaster 
 of this horse, we trudg'd on foote driving our mules before us ; some- 
 times we fell, sometimes we slid thro' this ocean of snow, which after 
 October is impassable. Towards night we came into a larger way, 
 thro' vast woods of pines which clothe the middle parts of these rocks. 
 Here they were burning some to make pitch and rosin, piling the 
 icnotty branches as we do to make charcoale, reserving what mealts 
 from them, which hardens into pitch. We pass'd severall cascades of 
 dissolv'd snow, that had made channels of formidable depth in the 
 crevices of the mountaines, and with such a fearfuU roaring as we could 
 heare it for 7 long miles. It is from these sources that the Rhone and 
 the Rhine which passe thro' all France and Germanic, derive their 
 originals. Late at night we got to a towne called Briga at the foote of 
 the Alpes, in the Valtoline. Almost every doore had nail'd on the 
 outside and next the streete a beare's, wolfe's, or foxe's head, and divers 
 of them all three ; a savage kind of sight, but as the Alpes are full of 
 these beasts the people often kill them. The next morning we re- 
 turn'd our guide, and tooke fresh mules and another to conduct us to 
 the Lake of Geneva, passing thro' as pleasant a country as that we 
 had just travel'd was melancholy and troublesome. A strange and 
 suddaine change it seem'd, for the reverberation of the sun-beames 
 from the mountaines and rocks that like walls range it on both sides, 
 not above two flight shots in bredth for a very great number of miles, 
 renders the passage excessively hot. Thro' such extreames we con- 
 tinu'd our journey, that goodly river the Rhone gliding by us in a 
 narrow and quiet channell almost in the middle of this Canton, ferti- 
 lising the country for grasse and corne, which grow in aboundance. 
 
 We ariv'd this night at Sion, a pretty towne and citty, a bishop's 
 seate, and the head of Valesia. There is a Castle, and the Bishop who 
 resides in it has both civill and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. Our host, 
 as the costome of these Cantons is, was one of the chiefest of the 
 towne, and had ben a Colonell in France ; he us'd us with extreame 
 civility, and was so displeas'd at the usage we received at Mount 
 Sampion that he would needes give us a letter to tte Governor of the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 1 89 
 
 Country who resided at St. Maurice, which was in our way to Geneva, 
 to revenge the affront. This was a true old blade, and had ben a very 
 curious virtuoso, as we found by an handsome collection of books, 
 medails, pictures, shells, and other antiquities. He shew'd two heads 
 and homes of the true capricorne, which animal he told us was fre- 
 quently kill'd among the mountaines ; one branch of them was as 
 much as I could well lift and neere as high as my head, not much un- 
 like the greater sort of goates, save that they bent forwards, by help 
 whereof they climb up and hang on inaccessible rocks, from whence the 
 inhabitants now and then shoote them ; they speak prodigious things 
 of their leaping from crag to crag, and of their sure footing notwith- 
 standing their being cloven footed, unapt one would think to take hold 
 and walke so steadily on those horrible ridges as they do. The Colonell 
 would have given me one of these beames, but the want of a convenience 
 to carry it along with me caus'd me to refuse his courtesie. He told me 
 that in the Castle there were some Roman and Christian antiquities, 
 and he had some inscriptions in his owne garden. He invited us to 
 his country-house, where he said he had better pictures and other 
 rarities ; but our time being short, I could not persuade my companions 
 to stay and visite the places he would have had us seene, nor the offer 
 he made to shew us the hunting of the beare, wolfe, and other wild 
 beasts. The next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty 
 well-fashioned young woman, with a small ruble ring, we parted some- 
 what late from our generous host. Passing thro' the same pleasant 
 vally betweene the horrid mountaines on either hand, like a gallery 
 many miles in length, we got to Martigni, where also we were well en- 
 tertain'd. The houses in this country are all built of firr boards planed 
 within, low, and seldom above one story. The people very clownish, 
 and rustickly clad after a very odd fashion, for the most part in blew 
 cloth, very whole and warme, with little variety or distinction 'twixt the 
 gentleman and common sort, by a law of their country being exceed- 
 ingly frugal. Add to this their greate honestie and fidelity, tho' exact- 
 ing enough for what they part with. I saw not one beggar. We paid 
 the value of 20 shill. English for a day's hire of one horse. Every man 
 gos with a sword by his side, the whole country well disciplin'd, and- 
 indeed impregnable, which made the Romans have such ill successe 
 against them ; one lusty Swisse at their narrow passages is sufficient 
 to repell a legion. 'Tis a frequent thing here for a young tradesman or 
 fermor to leave his wife and children for 12 or i J yeares, and seeke his 
 fortune in the warrs in Spaine, France, Italy, or Germanic, and then 
 returne againe to work. I look upon this country to be the safest spot | 
 of all Europ, neither envyed nor e.lvying ; nor are any of them rich, 
 nor poore ; they live in greate simplicity and tranquillitie ; and tho' of 
 the 14 Cantons halfe be Roman Catholics, the rest Reformed, yet they i 
 mutually agree, and are confederate with Geneva, and are its onely ' 
 
igo ST. MAURICE ; BECOME ILL OF SMALL POX ; LAKE OF GENEVA. 
 
 security against its potent neighbours, as they themselves are from 
 being attack'd by the greater Potentates, by the mutual jealousie of their 
 neighbours, as either of them would be overbalanc'd should the Swisse, 
 who are wholy mercenarie and auxiliaries, be subjected to the rule ot 
 France or Spaine. 
 
 We were now ariv'd at St. Maurice, a large handsome towne and resi- 
 dence of the President, where justice is don ; to him we presented our 
 letter from Sion, and made known the ill usage we had receiv'd for 
 killing a wretched goate, which so incens'd him as he sware if we would 
 stay he would not onely help us to our money againe, but most severely 
 punish the whole rabble ; but our desire of revenge had by this time 
 subsided, and glad we were to be gotten so neere France, which we 
 reckon'd as good as home. He courteously invited us to dine with him, 
 but we excus'd ourselves, and returning to our inn, whilst we were 
 eating something before we tooke horse, the Governor had caus'd two 
 pages to bring us a present of two great vessells of cover'd plate full of 
 excellent wine, in which we drank his health, and rewarded the youthes ; 
 they were two vast bowles supported by two Swisses, handsomly wrought 
 after the German manner. This civilitie and that of our host at Sion 
 perfectly reconcil'd us to the highlanders ; and so proceeding on our 
 journey we pass'd this afternoone thro' the gate which divides the 
 Valois from the Dutchy of Savoy, into which we were now entering, 
 and so thro' Montei we ariv'd that evening at Beveretta. Being ex- 
 treamly weary and complaining of my head, and finding little accom- 
 modation in the house, I caus'd one of our hostesses daughters to be 
 removed out of her bed and went immediately into it whilst it was yet 
 warme, being so heavy with pain and drowsinesse that I would not stay 
 to have the sheetes chang'd ; but I shortly after payd dearly for my 
 impatience, falling sick of the small pox so soon as I came to Geneva, 
 for by the smell of frankincense and the tale the good woman told me 
 of her daughter having had an ague, 1 afterwards concluded she had 
 ben newly recover'd of the smallpox. Notwithstanding this I went with 
 my company on the next day, hiring a bark to carry us over the Lake ; 
 and indeede sick as I was, the weather was so serene and bright, the 
 water so calme, and aire so temperate, that never had travellers a 
 sweeter passage. Thus we sail'd the whole length of the Lake, about 
 30 miles, the countries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) affording 
 one of the most delightfuU prospects in the world, the Alps cover'd with 
 snow, tho' at a greate distance yet shewing their aspiring tops. Thro' 
 this Lake the river Rhodanus passes with that velocity as not to mingle 
 with its exceeding deep waters, which are very cleare, and breed the 
 most celebrated troute for largenesse and goodness of any in Europe. 
 I have ordinarily scene one of three foote in length sold in the market 
 for a small price, and such we had in the lodging where we abode, 
 which was at the White Crosse. All this while 1 held up tolerably, and 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. I9I 
 
 the next morning having a letter for Signor John Diodati, the famoui 
 Itahan Minister and translator of the Holy Bible into that language, I 
 went to his house, and had a greate deal of discourse with that learned 
 person. He told me he had been in England, driven by tempest into 
 Deale, whilst sailing for Holland, that he had seene London, and was 
 exceedingly taken with the civilities he receiv'd. He so much approv'd 
 of our Church Government by Bishops, that he told me the French 
 Protestants would make no scruple to submitt to it and all its pomp, 
 had they a King of the Reform'd Religion as we had. He exceedingly 
 deplor'd the difference now betweene his Majesty and the Parliament. 
 After dinner came one Monsieur Saladine with his little pupil the Earle 
 of Carnarvon, to visit us, offering to carry us to the principal places of 
 the towne, but being now no more able to hold up my head, I was con- 
 straint to keepe my chamber, imagining that my very eyes would have 
 dropp'd out ; and this night I felt such a stinging all about me that I 
 could not sleepe. In the morning I was very ill, but sending for a 
 doctor he persuaded me to be let bloud. He was a very learned old 
 man, and as he said had ben physician to Gustavus the greate King of 
 Sweden, when he pass'd this way into Italy under the name of Monsieur 
 Garse, the initial letters of Gustavus Adolphus Rex Suecias, and of our 
 famous Duke of Buckingham on his returning out of Italy. He after- 
 wards acknowledged that he should not have bled me had he suspected 
 the small pox, which brake out a day after. He afterwards purg'd me 
 and applied leaches, and God knows what this would have produc'd if 
 the spots had not appear'd, for he was thinking of blooding me againe. 
 They now kept me warme in bed for 16 dales, tended by a vigilant 
 Swisse matron, whose monstrous throat, when I sometimes awak'd out 
 of unquiet slumbers, would affright me. After the pimples were come 
 forth, which were not many, I had much ease as to paine, but infinitely 
 afflicted with the heat and noysomenesse. By God's mercy after five 
 weeks keeping my chamber I went abroad. Monsieur Saladine and 
 his lady sent me many refreshments. Monsieur Le Chat, my physi- 
 cian, to excuse his letting me bloud told me it was so burnt and vicious 
 as it would have prov'd the plague or spotted feaver had he proceeded 
 by any other method. On my recovering sufficiently to go abroad, 
 I dined at Monsieur Saladine's, and in the afternoone went crosse the 
 water on the side of the Lake, and tooke a lodging that stood exceed- 
 ing pleasant about halfe a mile from the Citty for the better ayring ; 
 but I sta/d onely one night, having no company there save my pipe ; 
 so the next day I caus'd them to row me about the Lake as far as the 
 greate stone which they call Neptune's Rock, and on which they say 
 sacrifice was anciently offer'd to him. Thence I landed at certaine 
 cherry-gardens and pretty villas by the side of the Lake and ex- 
 ceedingly pleasant. Returning I visited their conservatories of fish ; 
 in which were trouts of 6 and 7 foote long as they aj^irm'd. 
 
192 THK CITY OF GENEVA ; INSCRIPTIONS ; CAMPUS MARTIUS. 
 
 The Rhone, which parts the Citty in the middst, dips into a cavern 
 underground about 6 miles from it, and afterwards rises againe and 
 runns its open course like our Mole or Swallow by Dorking in Surrey. 
 The next morning (being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in 
 Italian, many of that Country, especialy of Lucca his native place, being 
 inhabitants of Geneva and of the Reform'd Religion. 
 
 The towne lying between Germanic, France, and Italy, those three 
 tongues are familiarly spoken by the inhabitants. 'Tis a strong well 
 fortifi'd Citty, part of it built on a rising ground. The houses are not 
 despicable, but the high pent-houses (for I can hardly call them cloy- 
 sters, being all of wood) thro' which the people passe drie and in 
 the shade winter and summer, exceedingly deforme the fronts of the 
 buildings. Here are aboundance of bookesellers, but their bookes are 
 of ill impressions ; these, with watches (of which store are made here), 
 chrystal, and excellent screw'd guns, are the staple commodities. All 
 provisions are good and cheape. 
 
 The Townehouse is fairely built of stone ; the portico has foure black 
 marble columnes, and on a table of the same under the Citty arms, a 
 demie eagle and a crosse between crosse-keys, is a motto, ' Post Tene- 
 bras Lux,' and this inscription : — Quum anno 1535 profligata Romans 
 Anti-Christi Tyrannide, abrogatisq ; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta 
 Christi Religio hie in suam puritatem, Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem 
 singulari Dei beneficio reposita, et simul pulsis fugatisq ; hostibus urbs 
 ipsa in suam Libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit ; 
 Senatus Populusq ; Genevensis Monumentum hoc, perpetuze memoriae 
 causa, fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quo suam erga Deum gratitudi- 
 nem ad posteros testatum fuerit. 
 
 The territories about the tbwne are not so large as many ordinary 
 gentlemen have about their country farmes, for which cause they are 
 in continual watch, especialy on the Savoy side ; but in case of any 
 siege the Swisse are at hand, as this inscription in the same place shews, 
 towards the streete : — D. O. M. S. Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum 
 veteri Libertate Genevae restituta, et quasi novo Jubileo ineunte, pluri- 
 mus vitatis domi et foris insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et Helve- 
 tiorum Primari Tigurini squo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum 
 venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo ad- 
 strinxerint, S. P. Q. G. quod felix se velit D. O. M. tanti beneficii mo- 
 numentum consecrarunt, anno temporis ultimi CID.IO.XXXIV. 
 
 In the Senat house were 14 ancient urnes, dug up as they were re- 
 moving earth in the fortifications. 
 
 A little out of the towne is a spacious field, which they call Campus 
 Martins ; and well it may be so tearm'd with better reason than that of 
 Rome at present (which is no more a field but all built into streetes), 
 lor here on every Sonday after the evening devotions this precise people 
 permitt their youths to exercise armes, and shoote in gunns and in the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. I93 
 
 long and crosse bowes, in which they are exceedingly expert, reputed 
 to be as dexterous as any people in the world. To encourage this, they 
 yearely elect him who lias won most prizes at the mark to be their 
 king, as the king of the long-bow, gun, or crosse-bow. He then weares 
 that weapon in his hat in gold, with a crowne over it, made fast to the 
 I hat like a broach. In this field is a long house wherein their armes 
 and furniture are kept in severall places very neately. To this joynes 
 a hall where at certain times they meete and feast ; in the glass win- 
 dows are the armes and names of their kings [of arms]. At the side 
 of the field is a very noble Pall Mall, but it turns with an elbow. There 
 is also a bowling-place, a tavern, and a true-table, and here they ride 
 their managed horses. It is also the usual place of publiq execution of 
 those who suffer for any capital crime tho' committed in another coun- 
 try, by which law divers fugitives have been put to death who have fled 
 hither to escape puishment in their own country. Amongst other severe 
 punishments here, adultery is death. Having seene this field and 
 play'd a game at Mall, I supped with Mr. Saladine. 
 
 On Sonday I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and after the 
 French mode, in a gowne with a cape and his hat on. The Church 
 Government is severely Presbyterian, after the discipline of Calvin and 
 Beza who set it up, but nothing so rigid as either our Scots or English 
 Sectaries of that denomination. In the afternoone Monsieur Morice, 
 a most learned young person and excellent poet, cheit Professor of the 
 University, preach'd at St. Peter's, a spacious Gotick fabrick. This 
 was heretofore a Cathedral and a reverend pile. It has 4 turrets, on 
 one of which stands a continual sentinel ; on another cannons are 
 mounted. The Church is very decent wiihin ; nor have they at all 
 defaced the painted windows, which are full of pictures of Saints ; nor 
 the stalls, which are all carVd with the history of our B. Saviour. 
 
 In the afternoone I went to see the young towne's-men exercise in 
 Mars Field, where prizes were pewter plates and dishes ; 'tis said that 
 some have gain'd competent estates by what they have thus won. Here 
 I first saw huge balistae or crosse-bows shot in, being such as they for- 
 merly us'd in wars before greate guns were known ; they were plac'd 
 in frames, and had greate screws to bend them, doing execution at an 
 incredible distance. They were most accurate at the long-bow and 
 musket, rarely missing the smallest mark. I was as buisy with the car- 
 bine I brought from Brescia as any of them. After every shot I found 
 the marksmen go into the long house and cleanse their guns before they 
 charg'd againe. 
 
 On Monday I was invited to a little garden vnthout the workes 
 where were many rare tulips, anemonies, and other choice flowers. 
 The Rhone, running athwart the towne out of the Lake, makes halfe 
 the Citty a suburb, which in imitation of Paris they call St. German's 
 Fauxbourg, and it has a church of the same name. On two wooden 
 
 13 
 
^ 
 
 J94 COLLEGE OF GENEVA ; THE RHONE ; ROHAN ; ORLEANS. 
 
 bridges that crosse the river are several water mills, and shops of 
 trades especialy smiths and cuttlers ; between the bridges is an island 
 in the midst of which is a very ancient Tower said to have been 
 built by Julius Caesar. At the end of the other bridge is the Mint, and 
 also a faire Sun-dial. 
 
 Passing againe by the Towne-house I saw a large crocodile hanging 
 in chaines ; and against the wall of one of the chambers seaven judges 
 were painted without hands, except one in the middle, who has but 
 one hand ; I know not the storie. The Arsenal is at the end of this 
 building, well furnisb'd and kept. 
 
 After dinner Mr. Morice led us to the CoUedge, a faire structure ; 
 in the lower part are the scholes, which consist of 9 classes ; and an 
 hall above, where the stiidents assemble ; also a good library. They 
 show'd us a very antient Bible of about 300 yeares old in the vulgar 
 French, and a MS. in the old Monkish character: here have the Pro- 
 fessors their lodgings. I also went to see the Hospital, which is very 
 commodious ; but the Bishop's Palace is now a prison. 
 
 This towne is not much celebrated for beautifull women, for even at 
 this distance from the Alps the gentlewomen have something full 
 throates, but our Captain Wray (afterwards Sir Wm. eldest son of that 
 Sir Christopher who had both ben in armes against this Majesty for the 
 Parliament) fell so mightilyin love with oneof Mons. Saladine's daughters 
 that with much persuasion he could not be prevail'd on to think on his 
 journey into France, the season now coming on extremely hot. 
 
 My sicknesse and abode here cost me 45 pistoles of gold to my host, 
 and five to my honest doctor, who for six weekes attendance and the 
 apothecarie thought it so generous a reward, that at my taking leave 
 he presented me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written 
 with his own hand in Latine. This regimen I much observ'd, and I 
 bless God pass'd the journey without inconvenience from sicknesse, but 
 it was an extraordinarily hot unpleasant season and journey by reason 
 of the craggie waies. 
 
 5 July, 1646, we tooke or rather purchas'd a boat, for it could not 
 be brought back against the streame of the Rhone. We were two days 
 going to Lions, passing many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs, 
 and neere the towne down a very steepe declivitie of water for a full 
 mile. From Lions we proceeded the next morning, taking horse to 
 Rohan, and lay that night at Farrara. At Rohan we indulged our- 
 selves with the best that all France affords, for here the provisions are 
 choice and plentifuU, so as the supper we had might have satisfied a 
 prince. We lay that night in damask beds, and were treated like em- 
 peroors. The towne is one of the neatest built in all France, on the 
 brink of the Loire ; and here we agreed with an old fisher to row us 
 as farr as Orleans. The first night we came as far as Nevers, early 
 enough to see the towne, the Cathedral (St. Gyre), the Jesuits Col- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYK. I95 
 
 ledge, and the Castle, a Palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it, 
 which is nobly built. 
 
 The next day we pass'd by La Charite, a pretty towne somewhat 
 distant from the rivar. Here I lost my faithfull spaniel (Piccioli) who 
 had follow'd me from Rome ; it seemes he had ben taken up by some 
 of the Governor's pages or footemen, without recovery, which was a 
 greate displeasure to me because the curr had many useful qualities. 
 
 The next day we ariv'd at Orleans, taking our turns to row, of 
 which I reckon my share came to httle less than 20 leagues. Some- 
 times we footed it thro' pleasant fields and meadows ; sometimes we shot 
 at fowls and other birds, nothing came amiss ; sometimes we play'd at 
 cards, whilst others sung or were composing verses, for we had the 
 greate Poet Mr. Waller in our companie, and some other ingenious 
 persons besides. 
 
 At Orleans we abode but one day ; the next, leaving our mad Cap- 
 taine behind us, I ariv'd at Paris, rejoic'd that after so many disasters 
 and accidents in a tedious peregrination I was gotten so neere home, 
 and here I resolv'd to rest myselfe before I went farther. 
 
 It was now October, and the onely time that in my whole life I spent 
 most idly, tempted from my more profitable recesses ; but I soone re- 
 covered my better resolutions and fell to my study, learning the High 
 Dutch and Spanish tongues, and now and then refreshing my daunce- 
 ing and such exercises as I had long omitted and which are not in much 
 reputation amongst the sober Italians. 
 
 1647, J3^n. 28, I chang'd my lodging in the Place de Monsieur de 
 Metz neere the Abby of St. Germains ; and thence on the 12th Feb. to 
 another in Rue Columbier, where I had a very faire appartement which 
 cost me 4 pistoles per moneth. The l8th I frequented a course of 
 Chemistrie, the famous Mr. Le Febure operating upon most of the 
 nobler processes. March 3, Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on 
 the lute, tho' to small perfection. 
 
 In May I fell sick and had very weak eyes, for which ailment I was 
 foure times let blood. 
 
 22 May. My valet (Hebert) robb'd me of cloths and plate to the 
 value of threescore pounds, but thro' the diligence of Sir Richard 
 Browne, his Majesty's Resident at the Court of France, and with whose 
 lady and family I had contracted a greate friendship (and particularly 
 set my affections on a daughter) I recovered most of them, obtaining of 
 the Judge with no small difficulty that the processe against the thiefe 
 should not conceme his life, being his first offence. 
 
 10 June. We concluded about my marriage, in order to which I 
 went to St. Germans, where his Majesty, then Prince of Wales, had his 
 court, to desire of Dr. Earle, then one of his Chaplains (since Dean of 
 Westminster, Gierke of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisburie) that he 
 would accompany me to Paris, which he did, and on Thursday 27 
 
 r' 
 
196 MY MARRIAGE. LEAVE PARIS FOR SAVES COURT AND LONDON. 
 
 June, 1647, he married us in Sir Richd. Browne's Chapell betwixte the 
 houres of 11 and 12, some few select freinds being present : and this 
 being Corpus Christi feast was solemnly observ'd in this country ; the 
 streetes sumptuously hung with tapistry, and strew'd with flowers. 
 
 10 Sept. Being call'd into England to settle my affaires after an 
 absence of about 4 yeares, I tooke leave of the Prince and Queene, 
 leaving my wife, yet very young, under the care of an excellent lady and 
 prudent mother. 
 
 4 Oct. I seal'd and declared my Will, and that morning went from 
 Paris, taking my journey thro' Rouen, Dieppe, Ville-dieu, and St. Val- 
 lerie where I staled one day with Mr. Waller with whom I had some 
 affaires, and for which cause I tooke this circle to Calais, where I ariv'd 
 on the nth, and that night imbarking in the paquet-boate, was by one 
 o'clock got safe to Dover, for which I heartily put up my thanks to God 
 who had conducted me safe to my owne country, and ben mercifull to 
 me thro' so many aberrations. Hence taking post I ariv'd at London 
 the next day at evening, being the second of October N.S. 
 
 5 Oct. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to my brother, and 
 on the loth to Hampton Court, where I had the honour to kisse his 
 Majesty's hand, and give him an account of severall things I had in 
 charge, he being now in the power of those execrable villians who not 
 long after murder'd him. I lay at my cousin Serjeant Hatton's at 
 Thames Ditton, whence on the 13th I went to London. 
 
 14th. To Sayes Court at Deptford in Kent, (since my house), where 
 I found Mr. Pretyman my wife's uncle, who had charge of it and the 
 estate about it during my father-in-law's residence in France. On the 
 I5tb I againe occupied my owne Chambers at the Middle Temple. 
 
 9 Nov. My sister open'd to me her marriage with Mr. Glanvill. 
 
 1648. 14 Jan. From London I went to Wotton to see my young nephew ; 
 and thence to Baynards [in Ewhurstjto visite my brother Richard. 
 
 5 Feb. Saw a Tragie-comedy acted in the Cockpit, after there had 
 ben none of these diversions for many years during the warr. 
 
 28. I went with my noble friend Sir Wm. Ducy (afterwards Lord 
 Downe) to Thistleworth, where we din'd with Sir Clepesby Crew, and 
 afterwards to see the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver and rounds of 
 plaster, and then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, who has 
 some good medails and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine Indian hang- 
 ings and a very good chimney-piece of water colours by Breugel, which 
 I bought for him. 
 
 26 April. There was a greate uprore in London that the Rebell 
 Armie quartering at Whitehall would plunder the Citty, on which there 
 was publish'd a Proclamation for all to stand on their guard. 
 
 4 May. Came up the Essex Petitioners for an agreement 'twixt his 
 Majesty and the Rebells. The i6th the Surrey men address'd the 
 Pariiament for the same ; of which some of them were slayne and 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 19 7 
 
 murder'd by Cromwell's guards in the New Palace Yard. I now sold 
 the Impropriation of South Malhng, neere Lewes in Sussex, to Mr. 
 Kemp and Alcock for ^.3000. 
 
 30 May. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich 
 being at the head of them. Their first rendevous was in Broome field 
 next to my house at Says-Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and 
 so to Colchester, where was that memorable siege. 
 
 27 June. I purchas'd the Manor of Hurcott in Worcestershire of 
 my brother George for ^.3300. 
 
 1 July. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head, to 
 Mr. Walker, that excellent painter. 
 
 10. Newes was brought me of my Lord Francis Villers being slaine 
 by the Rebells neere Kingston. 
 
 16 Aug. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the wedding of my 
 brother Richard, who married the daughter and coheire of Esquire 
 Ivlinn lately deceas'd, by which he had a greate estate both in land and 
 monie on the death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and 
 the bridegroome were, was overturn'd in coming home, but no harm 
 was done them. 
 
 28. To London from Says Court, and saw the celebrated follies of 
 Bartholomew Fair. 
 
 Sept. 16. Came my lately married brother Richard and his wife to 
 visite me, when I shewed them Greenewich and her Majesties Palace, 
 now possessed by the Rebells. 
 
 28. I went to Albury to visite the Countess of Arundel, and return'd 
 to Wotton. 
 
 31 October. I went to see my Manor of Preston Beckhelvyn and 
 the Cliffhouse. 
 
 29th Nov. My selfe with Mr. Tho. Ofifley and Lady Gerrard, 
 christned my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother George Eve- 
 lyn by my Lady Cotton his second wife. I presented my niece a piece 
 of plate which cost me £. 1 8, and caused this inscription to be set on it : 
 
 ' In memoriam facti 
 
 Anno ciD.Ix.xllix. Cal. Decemb. viil. Virginum castiss : Xtianorum 
 
 innocentiss: Nept: suaviss: Maris, Johan: Evelynus Avunculus et 
 
 Susceptor Vasculum hoc cum Epigraphe L. M. Q. D. , 
 
 Ave Maria, Gratia sis plena ; Dominus tecum.' 
 
 2 December. This day I sold my Manor of Hurcott for /.3400 
 to one Mr. Bridges. 
 
 13. The Parliament now sat up the whole night and endeavour'd to 
 have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty, but were surprized by the 
 Rebell Army, the Members dispers'd, and greate confusion everywhere 
 in expectation of what would be next. 
 
 17. I heard an Italian sermon in Mercers Chapel, one Dr. Mid- 
 dleton, an acquaintance of mme, preaching. 
 
198 HEARD PETER PREACH ; MURDER OF OUR KING. 
 
 18. I got privately into the council of the Rebell Army at White- 
 hall, where I heard horrid villanies. 
 
 This was a most exceeding wet yeare, neither frost nor snow all the 
 Winter for more than six days in all. Cattle died every where of a 
 murrain. 
 
 1649, I Jan. I had a lodging and some bookes at my father in law's 
 house, Sayes Court. 
 
 2 Jan. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveller Mr. Hen- 
 shaw, who had 2 rare pieces of Stenviryck's perspective. 
 
 17. To London. I heard the Rebell Peters incite the Rebell Powers 
 met in the Painted Chamber to destroy his Majesty, and saw that arch- 
 traytor Bradshaw, who not long after condemn'd him. 
 
 19. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger of being 
 drowned by our wherries falling foule in the night on another vessell 
 then at anker, shooting the bridge at 3 quarters ebb, for which His 
 mercy God Almighty be prais'd. 
 
 21. Was publish'd my Translation of Liberty and Sei-vitude, for 
 the Preface of which 1 was severely threatened. 
 
 22. I went thro' a course of Chymistrie at Sayes Court. Now was 
 the Thames frozen over, and horrid tempests of wind. 
 
 The villanie of the Rebells proceeding now so far as to trie, condemne 
 and murder our excellent King on the 30th of this month, struck me 
 with such horror that I kept the day of his martyrdom a fast, and 
 would not be present at that execrable wickednesse, receiving the sad 
 account of it from my brother George and Mr. Owen, who came to 
 visite me this afternoone, and recounted all the circumstances. 
 
 I Feb. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Norwich, Lord 
 Capell, &c. at their tryall before the Rebells New Court of Injustice. 
 
 15. I went to see the collection of one Trean, a rich merchant, who 
 had some good pictures, especialy a rare perspective of Stenwyck ; froni 
 thence to other Virtuoso's. The paynter La Neve has an Andromeda , 
 but I think it a copy after Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in 
 France. Webb at the Exchange has some rare things in miniature of 
 Breugel's, also Putti (Boys' Heads) in 12 squares, that were plunder'd 
 from Sir James Palmer. At Du Bois we saw 2 tables of Putti, that 
 were gotten, I know not how, out of the Castle of St. Angelo by old 
 Petit, thought to be Titian's ; he had some good heads of Palma, and 
 one of Stenwyck. Bellcar shew'd us an excellent copy of his Majesty's 
 Sleeping Venus and the Satyre with other figures, for now they had 
 plunder'd, sold, and dispers'd a world of rare paintings of the King's 
 and his loyall subjects. After all. Sir William Ducy shew'd me some 
 excellent things in miniature, aijd in oyle of Holbein's Sir Tho. More's 
 head, and an whole figure of Edward 6th, which were certainly his 
 Majesty's, also a picture oi Queene Elizabeth, the Lady Isabella Thynn; 
 a rare painting of Rothenhamer, being a Susannas and a Magdalen 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. I99 
 
 of Quintin the Blacksmith ; also an Hen. 8. of Holbein ; and Francis 
 the first, rare indeede, but of whose hand I know not. 
 
 16. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de Condd, my 
 wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter of con- 
 solation to her; and on the 22d having recommended Obadiah Walker,' 
 a learned and most ingenious person, to be tutor to and to travell with 
 Mr. Hillyard's two sonns, returned to Says Court. 
 
 25. Came to visite me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the lymphatic 
 vesseUs, and an excellent anatomist. 
 
 26. Came to see me Capt. Geo. Evelyn " my kinsman, the greate 
 traveller, and one who believed himself a better architect than really he 
 was, witness the Portico in the garden at Wotton ; yet the greate roome 
 at Albury is somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but 
 he overbuilt every thing. 
 
 27. Came out of France my wife's unkle (Paris still besieged) being 
 rob'd at sea by the Dunkyrk pirates : I lost among other goods my 
 Wife's picture painted by Mons. Bourdon. 
 
 5 March. Now were the Lords murder'd in the Palace Yard.^ 
 
 18. Mr. Owen, a sequester'd and learned minister, preach'd in my 
 parlour, and gave us the blessed Sacrament, now wholly out of use in the 
 Parish Churches, which the Presbyterians and Fanatics had usurp'd. 
 
 21 Mar. I receiv'd letters from Paris from my wife, and from Sil 
 Richard [Browne] with whom I kept a political correspondence, with 
 no small danger of being discovered. 
 
 25. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in these days) in St. 
 Peter's at Paul's Wharf, London ; and in the morning the Archbishop 
 of Armagh, that pious person and learned man. Usher, in Lincoln's Inn 
 Chapell. 
 
 April 2. To London, and inventoried my moveables that had hitherto 
 ben dispersed for feare of plundring • wrote into France touching my 
 suddaine resolutions of coming over to them. On the 8th againe heard 
 an excellent discourse from Archbp. Usher on Ephes : 4. v. 26-27. 
 
 My Italian collection being now ariv'd, came Moulins the greate 
 Chirurgeon, too see and admire the Tables of Veins and Arteries which 
 I purchas'd and caus'd to be drawne out of several humane bodies at 
 Padua. 
 
 II. Received newes out of France that peace was concluded : dined 
 with Sir Jo. Evelyn at Westminster ; and on the 13th I saw a private 
 dissection at Moulins' house. 
 
 17. I fell dangerously ill of my head ; was bUstered and let blood 
 behind the eares and forehead : on the 23rd began to have ease by using 
 
 1 Mr. Evelyn has added in the margin against Walker's name, ' Sinc^ an apostate.' He 
 was master of University College, Oxford. 
 
 2 Son of Sir John Evelyn of Godstone. 
 
 3 Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, and Lord Cape!. 
 
200 UNKINGSHIP PROCLAIMED ; DORISLAUS, BURIAL OF. 
 
 the fumes of caimnomile on embers applied to my eares after all the 
 physitians had don their best. 
 
 29. I saw in London an huge ox bred in Kent, 17 foote in length, 
 and much higher than I could reach. 
 
 12 May. I purchased the Manor of Warley Magna in Essex : in 
 the afternoone went to see Gildron's collections of payntings, where I 
 found Mr. Endymion Porter of his late Majesties Bedchamber. 
 
 17. Went to Putney by water in barge with divers ladies, to seethe 
 Schooles or Colledges of the young gentlewomen.' 
 
 19. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, v/ho had some good 
 paintings, especialy a Monk at his beades. 
 
 30 May. Un-kingship was proclaim'd, and his Majesty's statues 
 thrown down at St. Paule's Portico and the Exchange. 
 
 7 June. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton (brother to Sir Ralph, Lord 
 Hopton, that noble hero), who having ben Ambassador Extraordinary 
 in Spaine, sojourn'd some time with my Father-in-law at Paris ; a 
 most excellent person. Also Signora Lucretia, a Greeke lady, whom I 
 knew in Italy, now come over with her husbfind, an English gentle- 
 man. Also the Earle and Countesse of Arundel, taking leave of them 
 and other friends now ready to depart for France. This night was a 
 scuffle betweene some rebell souldiers and some gentlemen about 
 the Temple. 
 
 10. Preach'd the Archbishop of Armagh in Lincoln's Inn from 
 Romans 5. verse 13. I receiv'd the Blessed Sacrament preparatory 
 to my journey. 
 
 13. I din'd with my worthy friend Sir John Owen, newly freed from 
 sentence of death among the Lords that suffer'd. With him was one 
 Carew, who play'd incomparably on the Welsh Harp : afterwards I 
 treated divers Ladies of my relations, in Spring Garden. 
 
 This night was buried with great pomp Dorislaus, slaine at the 
 ( Hague, the villain who manag'd the trial against his sacred Majesty. 
 
 17. I got a passe from the rebell Bradshaw, then in greate power. 
 
 20. I went to Putney and other places on the Thames to take pros- 
 pects in crayon to carry with me into France, where I thought to 
 have them engrav'd. 
 
 2 July. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the residence of Sir John 
 Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn of Wilts, when I took leave 
 of both Sir Johns and their ladys. Mem. the prodigious memory of 
 Sir John of Wilts daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepoint, and 
 mother of the present Earle of Kingston. I returned to Says Court 
 this night. 
 
 4. Visited Lady Hatton, her Lord sojourning at Paris with my 
 father-in-law. 
 
 IKept probably by Mrs. Bathsua Makins, the most learned woman of her time : she had been 
 tutor to the Princess Elizabeth, King Charles's daughter. There is a very rare portrait of her 
 
 by MarihaU. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 201 
 
 9. Din'd with Sir Walter Pye and my good friend Mr. Eaton, after- 
 wards a Judge, who corresponded with me in France. 
 
 11. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the Divine, Historian 
 and Poet ; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and other friends, came to 
 take leave of me. 
 
 12. It was about 3 in the afternoone I tooke oares for Gravesend, 
 accompanied by my cousin Stephens and sister Glanvill, who there 
 supp'd with me and return'd ; whence I tooke post immediately to 
 Dover, where I ariv'd by 9 in the morning, and about 1 1 that night 
 went on board a bark guarded by a pinnace of 8 guns ; this being the 
 first time the pacquett-boate had obtained a convoy, having severall 
 times before ben pillag'd. We had a good passage, tho' chased for 
 some houres by a pyrate, but he durst not attaq our fregat, and we then 
 chas'd him till he got under the protection of the Castle at Calais. It 
 was a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I carried over 
 with me my servant Ri. Hoare, an incomparable writer of several 
 hands, whom I afterwards preferr'd in the Prerogative Office, at the 
 return of his Majesty. Lady Catherine Scot, daughter of the Earle 
 of Norwich, follow'd us in a shallop with Mr. Arthur Slingsby, who left 
 England incognito. At the entrance of the towne the Lieut. Governor 
 being on his horse with the Guards let us passe courteously. I visited 
 Sir Richard Lloyd, an English gent in the towne, and walked in the 
 Church, where the ornament about the high altar of black marble is 
 very fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The Citadel! 
 seemes to be impregnable, and the whole country about it to be laied 
 under water by sluices for many miles. 
 
 16. We departed for Paris in company with that very pleasant lady, 
 and others. In aU this journey we were greatly apprehensive of parties, 
 which caus'd us to alight often out of our coach and walke separately 
 on foot with our guns ready in all suspected places. 
 
 I Aug. At 3 in the afternoone we came to St. Denis, saw the rarities 
 of the Church and Treasury, and so to Paris that evening. 
 
 The next day came to wellcome me at dinner the Lord High Trea- 
 surer Cottington, Sir Edward Hide Chancellor, Sir Edward Nicholas 
 Secretary of State, Sir George Cartret Governor of Jersey, and Dr. 
 Earle, having ben absent from my Wife above a yeare and halfe. 
 
 18. I went to St. Germain's to kisse his Majesty's hand ; in the 
 coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's went Mrs. Barlow the King's 
 mistresse and mother to the Duke of Monmouth, a browne, beautiful!, 
 bold, but insipid creature. 
 
 19. I went to salute the French King and the Queene Dowager j 
 and on the 21st returned in one of the Queenes coaches with my Lord 
 Germain, Duke of Buckingham, Lord Wentworth, & Mr. Croftes, since 
 created Lord Croftes. 
 
 7 Sept. Went with my Wife and deare Cosin to St. Germaines, and 
 
 H 
 
202 PRESIDENT MAISON'S PALACE. DROGHEOA TAKEN. 
 
 kissed the Queene's-mother's hand ; din'd with my L. Keeper and Lord 
 Hatton. Divers of the greate men of France came to see the King ; 
 the next day came the Prince of Condd. Returning to Paris we went 
 to see the President Maison's Palace, built castlewise of a milk-white 
 fine freestone ; the house not vast, but well contriv'd, especialy the 
 staire-case and the ornaments of Putti about it. 'Tis inviron'd in a 
 dry moate, the offices under-ground, the gardens very excellent with 
 extraordinary long walkes set with elmes, and a noble prospect towards 
 the forest and on the Seine towards Paris. Take it altogether, the 
 meadows, walkes, river, forest, corne-ground, and vineyards, I hardly 
 saw any thing in Italy exceede it. The yron gates are very magnificent. 
 He has pulled downe a whole village to make roome for his pleasure 
 about it. 
 
 12. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman and one of his Majesties Chap- 
 laines, a learned Grecian who set out the Council of Florence, preached. 
 
 13. The King invited the Prince of Condd to supper at St. Cloud ; 
 there I kiss'd the Duke of York's hand in the Tennis Court, where I 
 saw a famous match 'twixt Monsieur Saumeurs and Col. Cooke, and 
 so returned to Paris. 'Twas noised about that I was knighted, a dig- 
 nity which I often declin'd. 
 
 I Oct. Went with my cousin Tuke (afterwards Sir Samuel) to see 
 the fountaines of St. Cloud and Ruel, and after dinner to talke with 
 the poore ignorant and superstitious Anchorite at Mount Calvary, and 
 so on to Paris. 
 
 2. Came Mr. William Coventrie (afterwards Sir William) & the 
 Duke's Secretary, &c. to visite me. 
 
 5. Dined with Sir George Radcliffe the greate favourite of the late 
 Earle of Strafford, formerly Lord Deputy of Ireland, decapitated. 
 
 7. To the Louvre to visite the Countesse of Morton, Governesse to 
 Madame. 
 
 15. Came news of Drogheda being taken by the Rebells and all put 
 to the sword, which made us very sad, fore-running the losse of all 
 Ireland. 
 
 2t. I went to heare Dr. D'Avinson's lecture in the physical garden, 
 and see his laboratorie, he being Prefect of that excellent Garden and 
 Professor Botanicus. 
 
 30. I was at the funerall of one Mr. Downes, a sober English 
 gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Charenton, where he was 
 interr'd in a cabbage-garden, yet with the office of our Church, which 
 was said before in our Chapell at Paris. Here I saw also where they 
 buried the greate Souldier Gassion, who had a tombe built over him 
 like a fountaine, the designe and materials meane enough. I returned 
 to Paris with Sir Phil : Musgrave, & Sir Marmaduk Langdale, since 
 Lord Langdale.— Memorandum. This was a very sickly and mortal 
 Autumne. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 203 
 
 5 Nov. I receiv'd divers letters out of England, requiring me to 
 come over about settling some of my concerns. 
 
 7. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester) preach'd in our 
 Chapell on iVIatt: 4. verse 3. 
 
 18. I went with my Father-in-law to his audience at the French 
 Court, where next the Pope's Nuncio he was introduced by the Master 
 of Ceremonies, and after delivery of his credentials, as from our King 
 since his Father's murder, he was most graciously receiv'd by the King 
 of France and his Mother, with whom he had a long audience. This 
 was in the Palais Cardinal. 
 
 After this, being presented to his Majesty and the Queene Regent, I 
 went to see the house built by the late greate Cardinal de Richelieu. 
 The most observable thing is the gallerie painted with the portraits of 
 the most illustrious persons and signal actions in France, with innu- 
 merable emblemes 'twixt every table. In the middle of the gallery is a 
 neate chapell rarely paved in worke and devices of severall sorts of 
 marble, besides the altar-piece and 2 statues of white marble, one of St. 
 John, the other of the Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the apart- 
 ments are rarely gilded and carv'd, with some good modern paintings. 
 In the presence hang 3 huge branches of chrystal. In the FrencS. 
 King's bed-chamber is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were 
 in a chamber like a moveable box, with a rich embroidred bed. The 
 fabric of the Palace is not magnificent, being but of 2 stories, but the 
 garden is so spacious as to containe a noble basin and fountaine con- 
 tinually playing, and there is a Mall, with an elbow or turning to pro- 
 tract it. So I left his Majesty on the terrace, buisie in seeing a bull 
 baiting, and retum'd home in Prince Edward's coach with Mr. Paule, 
 the Prince Elector's agent. 
 
 19. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden, an English 
 Sorbonne Divine, we fell into some discourse about Religion. 
 
 28 Dec. Going to waite on Mr. Waller, I view'd St. Stephen's 
 Church ; the building tho' Gotic is full of carving ; within it is beauti- 
 ful], especialy the quire and winding staires. The glasse is well painted, 
 and the tapissry hung up this day about the quire, representing the 
 conversion of Constantine, was exceeding rich. 
 
 I went to that excellent engraver Du Bosse, for his instruction 
 about explanation of some difficulties in perspective which were 
 delivered in his booke. 
 
 I concluded this yeare in health, for which I gave solemn thanks to 
 Almighty God . 
 
 29 I christned Sir Hugh Rilies child with Sir Geo. Radcliffe in our 
 Chapell, the parents being so poore that they had provided no gossips, 
 so as severall of us drawing lotts it fell on me, the Deane of Peterborow 
 
 1 This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every year, but it will not always be neces 
 sary to insert it in this book. 
 
204 PALACE OF MADRID. CUTl'lNG FOR THE STONE. AJ3\ULTED. 
 
 (Dr. Cosin) officiating : we named it Andrew, being on the eve of that 
 Apostle's day. 
 
 1650. Jan. I. I began this Jubilie with the pubhq office in our 
 Chapell : din'd at my Lady Herbert's, wife of Sir Edward Herbert, 
 afterwards Lord Keeper. 
 
 18. This night was the Prince of Cond^ and his Brother carried 
 prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes. 
 
 Feb. 6. In the evening came Signor Allessandro, one of the Cardinal 
 Mazarine's musitians, and a person of greatename for his knowledge in 
 art, to visite my wife, and sung before divers persons of quality in 
 my chamber. 
 
 I March. I went to see the masquerades which was very fantastic, 
 but nothing so quiet and solemn as I found it at Venice. 
 
 13. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del Camp's Academic, where divers 
 of the French and English Noblesse, especialy my Lord of Ossorie, 
 and Richard, sonns to the Marquis of Ormond (afterwards Duke), did 
 their exercises on horseback in noble equipage, before a world of spec- 
 tators and greate persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation. 
 
 April 25. I went out of towne to see Madrid, a palace so call'd, 
 built by Francis the First. 'Tis observable onely for its open manner 
 of architecture, being much of tarraces and galleries one over another 
 to the very roofe, and for the materials, which are most of earth painted 
 like Porcelain or China-ware, whose colours appeare very fresh, but is 
 very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this potterie, 
 chimney-pieces and columns both within and without. Under the 
 chapell is a chimny in the midst of a roome parted from the Salle des 
 Gardes. The house is fortified with a deepe ditch, and has an admi- 
 rable "vista towards the Bois de Boulogne and River. 
 
 30. I went to see the collection of the famous sculptor Steffano de 
 la Bella returning now into Italy, and bought some prints ; and like- 
 v/ise visited Perelle the landskip graver. 
 
 3 May. At the Hospital of La Charitd I saw the operation of cutting 
 for the stone. A child of 8 or 9 yeares old underwent the operation 
 with most extraordinary patience, and expressing greate joy when he 
 saw the stone was drawn. The use I made of it was to give Almighty 
 God hearty thankes that I had not ben subject to this deplorable 
 mfirmitie. 
 
 7. I went with Sir Rich. Browne's lady and my wife, together with 
 the Earle of Chesterfield, Lord Ossorie and his brother, to Vamber, a 
 place neere the Citty famous for butter ; when coming homewards, 
 being on foote, a quarrel arose between Lord Ossorie and a man in a 
 garden, who thrust Lord Ossorie from the gate with uncivil language, 
 on which our young gallants struck the fellow on the pate, and bid him 
 aske pardon, which he did with much submission, and so we parted ; 
 but we were not gon far before we heard a noise behind us, and saw 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 20S 
 
 people coming with gunns, swords, staves, and forks, and who followed 
 flinging stones ; on which we turn'd and were forc'd to engage, and 
 with our swords, stones, and the help of our servants (one of whom had 
 a pistol) made our retreate for neere a quarter of a mile, when we took 
 shelter in a house, where we were besieg'd, and at length forc'd to 
 submit to be prisoners. Lord Hatton with some others were taken 
 prisoners in the flight, and his lordship was confin'd under 3 locks and 
 as many doores in this rude fellow's master's house, who pretended to 
 be steward to Monsieur St. Germain, one of the Presidents of the 
 Grand Chambre du Parliament and a Canon of Notre Dame. Severall 
 of us were much hurt. One of our lacquies escaping to Paris, caused 
 the bailiff of St. Germain to come with his guard and rescue us. 
 Immediately afterwards came Monsieur St. Germain himselfe in greate 
 wrath on hearing that his housekeeper was assaulted ; but when he saw 
 the King's Officers, the Gentlemen and Noblemen, with his Majesty's 
 Resident, and understood the occasion, he was ashamed of the accident, 
 requesting the fellow's pardon, and desiring the ladys to accept their 
 submission and a supper at his house. It was 10 o'clock at night ere 
 we got to Paris, guarded by Prince Griffith, (a Welch hero going under 
 that name, and well known in England for his extravagances,) together 
 with the scholars of two academies who came forth to assist and meete 
 us on horseback, and would faine have alarm'd the towne we receiv'd 
 the affront from, which with much ado we prevented. 
 
 12. Complaint being come to the Queene and Court of France 
 of the affront we had receiv'd, the President was ordered to aske pardon 
 of Sir R. Browne, his Majesty's Resident, and the fellow to make sub- 
 mission and be dismiss'd. There came along with him President de 
 Thou, sonn of the greate Thuanus [the historian,] and so all was com- 
 pos'd. But I have often heard that gallant gentleman my Lord Ossorie 
 affirme solemnly that in all the conflicts he ever was in at sea or on 
 land, (in the most desperate of both which he had often ben) he believ'd 
 he was never in so much danger as when these people rose against us. 
 He us'd to call it the battaill de Vambre, and remember it with a greate 
 deale of mirth as an adventure en cavalier. 
 
 24. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a running at the 
 Ring, where were many brave horses, gallants and ladys, my Lord 
 Stanhope entertaining us with a collation. 
 
 12 June. Being Trinity Sunday the Dean of Peterborough preach'd ; 
 after which there was an ordination of two Divines, Durell and Brevent 
 (the one was afterwards Deane of Windsor, the other of Durham, both 
 very learned persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with greate 
 gravity, after a pious and learned exhortation declanipg the weight and 
 dignitie of their function, especialy now in a time of the poore Church 
 of England's affliction ; he magnified the sublimity of the calhng, from 
 the object, viz. the salvation of men's soules, and the glory of God ; 
 
206 A FUNNY PICTURE. THE MUSEUM AT PONT NEUF. 
 
 proi^ucing many humane instances of the transitorinesse and vanity of 
 all other dignities ; that of all the triumphs the Roman Conquerors 
 made, none was comparable to that of our Blessed Saviours when 
 he lead Captivitie captive, and gave gifts to men, namely that of the 
 Holy Spirit, by which his faithfull and painefuU Ministers triumphed 
 over Satan as oft as they reduc'd a sinner from the errour of his ways. 
 He then proceeded to the ordination. They were presented by the 
 Deane in their surplices before the altar, the Bishop sitting in a chaire 
 at one side ; and so were made both Deacons and Priests at the same 
 time, in reguard to the necessitie of the times, there being so few 
 Bishops left in England, and consequently danger of a failure of both 
 functions. Lastly they proceeded to the Communion. This was all 
 perform'd in Sir Rich. Browne's Chapell at Paris. 
 
 13 June. I sate to the famous sculptor Nanteuil, who was after- 
 wards made a kni.-;ht by the French King for his art. He engrav'd 
 my picture in cop) Cr. At a future time he presented me with my own 
 picture, done all with a pen ; an extraordinary curiosity. 
 
 21 June. I went to see the Samaritan or Pump at the end of the 
 Pont Neuf, which tho' to appearance promising no greate matter, is 
 besides the machine, furnish'd with innumerable rarities both of art and 
 nature ; especialy the costly Grotto, where are the fairest corals grow- 
 ing out of the very rock, that I have seen; also great pieces of chrystal, 
 amethysts, gold in the mine, and other mettals and marcasites, with 
 two greate conchas, which the owner told us cost him 200 crownes at 
 Amsterdam. He shew'd us many landskips and prospects very rarely 
 painted in miniature, some with the pen and crayon ; divers antiquities 
 and relievos of Rome ; above all, that of the inside of the Amphitheater 
 of Titus incomparably drawn by Monsieur St. Clire himselfe; two boys 
 and three skeletons moulded by Fiamingo ; abooke of statues with the 
 pen made for Hen. IV. rarely executed, and by which one may discover 
 many errors in the taille douce of Perrier, who has added divers con- 
 ceits of his owne that are not in the originals. He has likewise an 
 infinite collection of taille douces richly bound in Morocco. He led us 
 into a stately chamber furnish'd to have entertain'd a prince, with pic- 
 tures of the 'greatest masters, especialy a Venus of Perino del Vaga ; 
 the Putti carved in the chimney-piece by the Fleming ; the vasas of 
 porcelan, and many design'd by Raphael ; some paintings of Poussin 
 and Fioravanti ; antiques in brasse ; the looking-glasse and stands 
 rarely carved. In a word, all was greate, choice and magnificent, and 
 not to be pass'd by as I had often don, without the least suspicion that 
 there were such rare things to be seene in that place. At a future visit 
 he shew'd a new grotto and bathing-place, heVd thro' the battlements 
 of the arches of Pont Neuf, into a wide vault at the intercolumnia- 
 tion, so that the coaches and horses thunder'd over our heads. 
 
 27 June. I made my Will, and taking leave of my wife and other 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 207 
 
 friends tooke horse for England, paying the Messenger S pistoles for me 
 and my servant to Calais, setting out with 17 in company well arm'd, 
 some Portugezes, Swisse, and French, whereof 6 were Captaines and 
 Officers. We came the first night to Beaumont; next day to Beauvais. 
 and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reach'd Abbeville ; next 
 din'd at Montreuil, and proceeding met a company of foote (being now 
 within the inroades of the parties which dangerously infest this day's 
 journey from St. Omers and the Frontiers) which we drew very neere 
 to, ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly were order'd 
 and led by a captaine of our traine ; but as we were on the speede, they 
 cal'd out, and prov'd to be Scotchmen newly rais'd and landed, and few 
 arm'd among them. This night we were well treated at BoUogne. 
 The next day we march'd in good order, the passage being now ex- 
 ceeding dangerous, and got to Calais by a little after two. The sun 1 
 so scorch'd my face that it made the skin peel off. / 
 
 I din'd with Mr. Booth his Majesty's Agent, and about 3 in the 
 afternoone imbarVd in the packet-boat ; hearing there was a pirate then 
 also setting saile, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair 
 S.W. wind, in seven hours we landed at Dover. The buisy watchman 
 would have us to the Major to be searched, but the gent, being in 
 bed we were dismiss'd. 
 
 Next day, being Sonday, they would not permit us to ride post, so 
 that afternoone our trunks were visited. 
 
 The next morning by 4 we sat out for Canterbury, where I met with 
 my Lady Catherine Scot, whom that very day twelve months before I 
 met at sea going for France ; she had been visiting Sir Tho. Peyton 
 not far off, and would needes carry me in her coach to Gravesend. 
 We din'd at Sittingboum, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford, 
 taking leave of my lady about 4 the next morning. 
 
 5th July. I supped in the Citty with my Lady Catherine Scott 
 at one Mr. Dubois, where was a gentlewoman call'd Everard, that was 
 a very great Chymist. 
 
 Sun. 7 July. In the afternoone having a mind to see what was 
 doing among the Rebells, then in full possession at' Whitehall, I went 
 thither and found one at exercise in the Chapell, after their way; 
 thence to St. James's, where another was preaching in the Court 
 abroad. 
 
 17. I went to London to Obtain a passe, intending but a short stay 
 in England. 
 
 25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Robert Cook and 
 my sister Glanvill ; the country was now much molested by souldiers, 
 who tooke away gentlemen's horses for the service of the State as 
 then call'd. 
 
 4 Aug. I heard a sermon at the Rolls ; and in the afternoone wan- 
 der'd to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties. 
 
2o8 LEAVE FOR FRANCE. MISERABLE STATE OF THE PEOPLE. PARIS. 
 
 6th. To Mr. Walker's a good painter, who shew'd me an excellent 
 copie of Titian. 
 
 12 July. Sat out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so that 
 night to Canterbury, where being surpriz'd by the souldiers, and 
 having only an antiquated passe, with some fortunate dexterity I got 
 cleare of them, tho' not without extraordinary hazard, having before 
 counterfeited one with successe, it being so difficult to procure one 
 of the Rebells without entering into oathes, which I never would do. 
 At Dover money to the searchers and officers was as authentiq as the 
 hand and seale of Bradshaw himselfe, where I had not so much as my 
 trunk open'd. 
 
 13. At 6 in the evening set saile for Calais, the wind not favourable 
 I was very sea sick, coming to an anksr about one o'clock ; about five 
 in the morning we had a long boate to carry us to land tho' at a good 
 distance ; this we willingly enter'd, because two vessells were chasing 
 us, but being now almost at the harbour's mouth, thro' inadvertency 
 there brake in upon us two such heavy seas as had almost sunk the 
 boate, I being neere the middle up in water. Our steeresman it 
 seemes apprehensive of the danger was preparing to leape into the 
 sea and trust to swimming, but seeing the vessell emerge, he put her 
 into the Pier, and so, God be thanked ! we got to Calais, tho' wett. 
 
 Here I waited for company, the passage towards Paris being still 
 infested with volunteers from the Spanish frontiers. 
 
 16. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 1400 horse and 
 foote (amongst them was a Capt. whom I knew), being come to towne, 
 I took horses for myselfe and servante, and march'd under their protec- 
 tion to Boulogne. 'Twas a miserable spectacle to see how these tatter'd 
 souldiers pillag'd the poore people of their sheepe, poultry, corne, 
 catell, and whatever came in their way ; but they had such ill pay that 
 they were ready themselves to starve. 
 
 As we pass'd St. Denis the people were in uproar, the guards 
 doubl'd, and every body running with their moveables to Paris, on 
 an alarme that the Enemy was within 5 leagues of them, so miserably 
 exposed was even this part of France at this time. 
 
 The 30th I got to Paris, after an absence of two moneths onely. 
 
 I Sept. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner ; Paris, and in- 
 deede all France being full of loyall fugitives. 
 
 Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which the Popish 
 midwife had baptis'd. 
 
 Oct. 15. Sir Tho. Osbom (afterwards Lord Treasurer) and Lord 
 Stanhop shot for a wager of 5 Louis to be spent on a treat ; they shot 
 so exact that it was a drawn match. 
 
 Nov. I. Took leave of my Lord Stanhop going on his journey 
 towards Italy : also visited my Lady Hatton, Comptroller of his Ma- 
 jesties Household, the Countesse of Morton, Governesse to the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 209 
 
 Lady Heniietta, and Mrs. Gardner one of the Queen's Maids ot 
 Honour. 
 
 6. Sir Thomas Osborn supping with us, his groome was set upon 
 in the streete before our house and receiv'd two wounds, but gave 
 the assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charitd hospital. Sir 
 Thomas went for England on the eighth, and carried divers letters for 
 me to my friends. 
 
 16. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's Secretary, to 
 a concert of French music and voices, consisting of 24, two theorbo's 
 and but one bass viol, being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at 
 vespers at Saint Cecilia's, on her feast, she being patronesse of Mu- 
 sitians. News ariv'd of the death of the Prince of Orange of the 
 small pox. 
 
 14 Dec. I wente to visite Mt. Ratcliffe, in whose lodging was an 
 impostor that had like to have impos'd upon us a pretended secret of 
 multiplying gold ; 'tis certain he had liv'd some time in Paris in extra- 
 ordinarie splendor, but I found him to be an egregious cheate. 
 
 22. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visite me. 
 
 31. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the past years. 
 and made up my accompts, which came this yeare to 7015 livers, neere 
 ;^.6oo sterling. 
 
 1651. I Jan. I wrote to my brother at Wotton about his garden 
 and fountaines. After evening Prayer Mr. Wainsford called on me : 
 he had long ben Consul at Aleppo, and told me many strange things 
 of those countries, the Arabs especialy. 
 
 27. I had letters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my grandmother-in. 
 law ; she had a most tender care of me during my childhood, and was 
 a woman of extraordinarie charity and piety. 
 
 29. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. 34, shewing the mischiefe of 
 covetousnesse. My Lord Marq. of Ormond and Inchiqueen, come 
 newly out of Ireland, were this day at Chapell. 
 
 9 Feb. Cardinal Mazarine was proscrib'd by Arret du Parlement, 
 and great commotions began in Paris. 
 
 23. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a Convent that has a tayr 
 cloister painted with the lives of the Eremites ; a glorious altar now 
 erecting in the chapell ; the garden on a rock with divers descents, with 
 a fine vineyard and a delicate prospect towards the Citty. 
 
 24. I went to see a Dromedarie, a very monstrous beaste, much like 
 the Camel but larger. There was also dauncing on the rope ; but 
 above all surprising to those who were ignorant ot the addresse, was the 
 water-spouter, who drinking only fountaine water, rendred out of his 
 mouth in severall glasses all sorts of wine and sweete waters, &c. For 
 a piece of money he discover'd the secret to me. I waited on Frier 
 Nicholas at the Convent at Challiot, who being an excellent chymist 
 shew'd me his Laboratorie and rare collection of Spagyrical remedies. 
 
 14 
 
110 FRIER NICHOLAS. ACTION OF THE TORTURE. A BALL. 
 
 He was both physitian and apothecarie of the Convent, and insteade ot 
 the names of his drouges painted his boxes and potts with the figure ol 
 the drug or simple contain'd in them. He shew'd me as a raritie some 
 5 of antimoniei : he had cur'd Monsieur Senetan of a desperate sick- 
 nesse, for which there was building a monumental altar that was to 
 cost £i'^oo. 
 
 II March. I went to the Chatelet or Prison, where a malefactor was 
 to have the question or torture given to him, he refusing to confess the 
 robbery with which he was charg'd, which was thus : they first bound 
 his wrist with a strong rope or small cable, and one end of it to an iron 
 ring made fast to the wall about 4 foote from the floore, and then his 
 feete with another cable, fastned about 5 foote farther than his uttmost 
 length to another ring on the floore of the roome : thus suspended and 
 yet lying but aslant, they slid an horse of wood under the rope which 
 bound his feete, which so exceedingly stiffened it, as sever'd the fellow's 
 joyiits in miserable sort, drawing him out at length in an extraordinary 
 manner, he having onely a paire of linnen drawers on his naked body : 
 then they questioned him of a robbery (the Lieutenant Criminal being 
 present, and a clearke that wrote), which not confessing, they put an 
 higher horse under the rope, to increase the torture and extension. In 
 this agonie, confessing nothing, the Executioner with a home (just 
 such as they drench horses with) stuck the end of it into his mouth, 
 and poured the quantity of two bouketts of water downe his throat and 
 over him, which so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pittied and 
 affrighted any one to see it; for all this, he denied all that was charged 
 to him. They then let him downe, and carried him before a warme 
 fire to bring him to himselfe, being now to all appearance dead with 
 paine. What became of him I know not ; but the gent, whom he rob- 
 bed constantly averr'd him to be the man, and the fellow's suspitious 
 pale lookes, before he knew he should be rack'd, betraied some guilt: 
 The Lieutenant was also of that opinion, and told us at first sight (for 
 he was a leane, dry, black young man) he would conquer the torture ; 
 and so it seemes they could not hang him, but did use in such cases, 
 where the evidence is very presumptive, to send them to the gallies, 
 which is as bad as death. 
 
 There was another Malefactor to succeede, but the spectacle was so 
 uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the sight of another. It 
 represented yet to me, the intollerable sufferings which our Blessed 
 Saviour must needes undergo when his body was hanging with all its 
 '.veight upon the nailes on the crosse. 
 
 20. I went this night with my wife to a Ball at the Marquiss de 
 Crevecoeur's, where were divers Princes, Dukes, and greate persons, but 
 what appeared to me very meane was that it began with a puppet-play, 
 
 ' Qu, some preparatloa of it ; since aerfected by Dr. James, M-hose name it now bears. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 211 
 
 6 .May. 1 attended the Ambassador to a Masque at Court, where 
 the French King in person daunced five enteries : but being ingag'd in 
 discourse and better entertained with one of the Queene Regent's Secro - 
 taries, I soon left the entertainment. 
 
 II. To the Palais Cardinal, where the Master of Ceremonies placed 
 me to see the royal masque or opera. The first sceane represented a 
 chariot of singers compos'd of the rarest voices that could be procur'd, 
 representing Cornaro ' and Temperance ; this was overthrowne by Bac- 
 chus and his Revellers : the rest consisted of severall enteries and 
 pageants of excesse by all the Elements. A Masque representing Fire 
 was admirable ; then came a Venus out of the Clouds. The conclu- 
 sion was an Heaven whither all ascended. But the glory of the Masque 
 was the greate persons performing in it, the French King, his brother 
 the Duke of Anjou, with all the Grandees of the Court, the King per- 
 forming to the admiration of all. The music was twenty-nine violins 
 vested a Vantiq, but the habits of the Masquers were stupendiously 
 rich and glorious. 
 
 23 May. I went to take leave of the Ambassadors for Spaine, which 
 were my Lord Treasurer Cottington and Sir Edw. Hide ; and as I 
 return'd I visited Mr. Morine's garden and his other rarities, especialy 
 coralls, minerals, stones and natural curiosities ; crabs of the Red Sea, the 
 body no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and the 2 leggs or 
 claws a foote in length. He had aboundance of shells, at least 1000 sorts, 
 which furnish'd a cabinet of greate price ; and had a very curious col- 
 lection of scarabees and insects, of which he was compiling a natural 
 historie. He had also the pictures of his choice flowers and plants in 
 miniature. He told me there were 10,000 sorts of tulips onely. He 
 had taiEe douces out of number ; the head of the rynoceros bird, which 
 was very extravagant, and a butterflie resembling a perfect bird. 
 
 25. I went to visit Mr. White, a learned priest and famous philoso- 
 pher, author of the booke De Mundo, with whose worthy brother I was 
 well acquainted at Rome. I was shew'd a cabinet of Maroquin or 
 Turkey leather, so curiously inlaid with other leather, and guilding, 
 that the workman demanded for it 800 livres. 
 
 The Dean (of Peterboro') preach'd on the feast of Pentecost, per- 
 stringing those of Geneva for their irreverence of the Blessed Virgin. 
 
 4 June. Trinity Sunday I was absent from Church in the afternoone 
 on a charitable affaire for the Abbesse of Boucharvant, who but for me 
 had been abus'd by that chymist Du Menie. Returning I stept into 
 the grand Jesuites, who had this high day expos'd their Cibarium, made 
 all of solid gold and imagerie, a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croydon, 
 who was coming out of Italy and from Padua, came to see me on his 
 return to England. 
 
 5. I accompanied my L. Strafford and some other noble persons to 
 
 1 The famous Venetian writer on Temperance. 
 
212 DR. STEWARD. BATHING AT CONFLANS ; ESCAPES OF SIR L. DJVES. 
 
 heare Madame Lavaran sing, which she did both in French and Italian 
 excellently v.-ell, but her voice was not strong. 
 
 7 June. Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession, all the 
 streetes tapisstred, severall altars erected there, full of images and 
 other rich furniture, especialy that before the Court, of a rare designe 
 and architecture. There were aboundance of excellent pictures and 
 great vases of silver. 
 
 13. I went to see the collection of one Monsieur Poignant, which 
 for variety of achates, chrystals, onyxes, porcelain, medails, statues, re- 
 lievos, paintings, taille douces and antiquities, might compare with the 
 Italian virtuosos. 
 
 21. I became acquainted with Sir William Curtius, a very learned 
 and judicious person of the Palatinate. He had ben scholar to Alste- 
 dius the Encyclopedist, was well advanc'd in yeares, and now Resident 
 for his Majestic at Frankfort. 
 
 2 July. Came to see me the Earle of Strafford, Lord Ossory and his 
 Brother, Sir John Southcott, Sir Edw: Stawell, two of my Lord Spen- 
 cer's Sonns, and Dr. Stewart Deane of St. Paules, a learned and pious 
 man, where we entertained the time upon severall subjects, especialy 
 the affaires of England and the lamentable condition of our Church. 
 ~ The Ld. Gerrard called to see my collection of sieges and battles. 
 
 21 July. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our ChapeU, Dr. 
 Steward Dean of St. Paul's preaching. 
 
 2 Aug. I went with my wife to Conflans, where were aboundance of 
 ladys and others bathing in the river ; the ladys had their tents spread 
 on the water for privacy. 
 
 29 Aug. Was kept as a solemne Fast for the calamities of our poore 
 Church now trampled on by the Rebells. Mr. Waller being at St. 
 Germains, desir'd me to send him a coach from Paris to bring my wife's 
 god-daughter to Paris, to be buried by the Common Prayer. 
 
 6 Sept. I went with my wife to St. Germains to condole with Mr. 
 Waller's losse. I carried with me and treated at dinner that excellent 
 and pious person the Deane of St. Paul's Dr. Steward, and Sir Lewes 
 Dives (half-brother to the Earle of Bristol) who entertain'd us with his 
 wonderful escape out of prison in White-hall the very evening before 
 he was to have ben put to death, leaping down out of a jakes two stories 
 high into the Thames at high water, in the coldest of winter and 
 at night ; so as by swimming he got to a boate that attended for him, 
 tho' he was guarded by six musqueteeres. After this he went about in 
 womens habite, and then in a small-coale-man's, travelling 200 miles 
 on foote, embark'd for Scotland with some men he had raised, who 
 coming on-shore were all surpriz'd and imprison'd on the Marq. of 
 Montrose's score, he not knowing any thing of their barbarous murder 
 of that hero. This he told us was his fifth escape, and none less mira- 
 culous, with this note, that the chargeing thro' 1000 men arm'd, or 
 
THE DTARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 213 
 
 whatever danger could befall a man, he believ'd could not more confound 
 and distract a man's thoughts than the execution of a premeditated 
 escape, the passions of hope and feare being so strong. This knight 
 was indeede a valiant gentleman, but not a little given to romance when 
 he spake of himselfe. I returned to Paris the same evening. 
 
 7 Sept. I went to visite Mr. Hobbs, the famous philosopher of 
 Malmsbury, with whom I had long acquaintance. From his window 
 ive saw the whole equipage and glorious cavalcade of the young French 
 Monarch Lewis XIV. passing to Parliament when first he tooke the 
 kingly government on him, now being in his 14th yeare, out of his 
 minority and the Queene Regent's pupillage. First came the captaine 
 if the King's aydes at the head of 50 richly liveried ; next the Queene 
 Mother's light horse, an hundred, the lieutenant being all over cover'd 
 with embroiderie and ribbans, having before him 4 trumpets habited 
 in black velvet, full of lace and casques of the same ; then the King's 
 light horse, 200, richly habited, with 4 trumpets in blue velvet em- 
 brodred with gold, before whom rid the Count d'Olonne coronet 
 [comet] whose belt was set with pearle ; next went the grand Prevost's 
 company on foote with the Prevost on horseback ; after them the 
 Swisse in black velvet toques led by 2 gallant cavalieres habited in 
 scarlet-colour'd sattin after their country fashion, which is very fantas- 
 tick ; he had in his cap a pennach of heron with a band of diamonds, 
 and about him 12 little Swisse boyes with halberds; then came the 
 Ayde des Ceremonies j next the grandees of court, governors of places, 
 and lieutenants general of provinces, magnificently habited and mounted, 
 among whom I must not forget the Chevalier Paul, famous for many 
 sea-fights and signal exploits there, because 'tis said he had never been 
 an Academist, and yet govern'd a very unruly horse, and besides his rich 
 suite, his Malta Cross was esteem'd at 10,000 crownes; these were headed 
 by 2 trumpets, and the whole troup cover'd with gold, jewels, and rich 
 caparisons, were follow'd by 6 trumpets in blew velvet also, preceeding 
 as many heralds in blew velvet semfee with fleurs de lys, caduces in 
 their hands and velvet caps on their heads ; behind them came one 
 of the masters of the ceremonies ; then divers marishalls & many of 
 the nobility, exceeding splendid ; behind them Count d'Harcourt, 
 grand escuyer, alone, carrying the King's sword in a scarf, which he 
 held up in a blew sheath studded with fleurs de lys ; his horse had for 
 reines 2 scarfs of black tafifata ; then came aboundance of footemen and 
 pages of the King, new liveried with white and red feathers ; next the 
 guard de corps and other officers ; and lastly appear'd the King him- 
 selfe on an Isabella Barb, on which a houssing sem^e with crosses of 
 the Order of the Holy Ghost, and fleurs de lys ; the King himself like a 
 young Apollo, was in a sute so cover'd with rich embrodry, that one 
 could perceive nothing of the stuff under it ; he went almost the whole 
 way with his hat in hand, saluting the ladys and acclamators who had 
 
214 MAJORITY OF LOUIS XIV. AT COURT. BATTAIL OF WORCESTER. 
 
 fiU'd the windows with their beauty, and the aire with Vive le Roy. 
 He seem'd a prince of a grave yet sweete countenance. After the King 
 foUow'd divers greate persons of the Court exceeding splendid, also his 
 esquires, masters of horse on foote, then the company of Exempts des 
 Cards, and 6 guards of Scotch; 'twixt their files were divers princes of 
 the blood, dukes, and lords ; after all these, the Queene's guard of 
 Swisse, pages, and footemen ; then the Queene Mother herselfe in a rich 
 coach, with Monsieur the King's brother, the Duke of Orleans, and 
 some other lords and ladys of honour ; about the coach march'd her 
 Exempts des Cards, then the company of the King's Cens d'armes well 
 mounted, 150, with 4 trumpets and as many of the Queene's ; lastly, an 
 innumerable company of coaches full of ladys and gallants. In this 
 equipage pass'd the Monarch to the Parliament, henceforth exercising 
 his kingly government. 
 
 15 Sept. I accompanied Sir Richard Browne, my father-in-law, to 
 the French Court, where he had a favourable audience of the French 
 King and the Queene his Mother, congratulating the one on his coming 
 to the exercise of his royal charge, and the other's prudent and happy 
 administration during her late Regency, desiring both to preserve the 
 same amitie for his Master, our King, as they had hitherto don, which 
 they both promis'd with many civil expressions and words of course 
 upon such occasions. We were accompanied both going and return- 
 ing by the Introductor of Ambassador and Ayd of Cermonies. I also 
 saw the audience of Morosini the Ambassador of Venice, and divers 
 other Ministers of State from German Princes, Savoy, &c. Afterwards 
 I tooke a walke in the King's gardens, where I observ'd that the Mall 
 gos the whole square thereof next the wall, and bends with an angle so 
 made as to glace [glance] the ball; the angle is of stone. There's a 
 basin at the end of the garden fed by a noble fountaine and high jetto. 
 There were in it 2 or 3 boates in which the King now and then rowes 
 about. In another part is a compleate fort, made with bastions, graft, 
 halfe-moones, ravelins, and furnish'd with greate gunns cast on purpose 
 to instruct the King in fortification. 
 
 22. Ariv'd the news of the fatal battail at Worcester, which exceed- 
 ingly martified our expectations. 
 
 28. I was shew'd a collection of books and of prints made for the 
 Duke of York. 
 
 I Oct. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. Cosin] preach'd on 13 Job 
 v. 15, encouraging our trust in God on all events and extremities, and 
 for establishing and comforting some ladys of greate qualitie, who were 
 then to be discharg'd from our Q. Mother's service, unlesse they would 
 go over to the Romish Masse. 
 
 The Dean dining this day at our house, told me the occasion of pub- 
 lishing those Offices which among the Puritans were wont to be call'd 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 215 
 
 Cosins causining Devotions'^ by way of derision. At the first cpjning 
 of the Queene into England, she and her French ladys were" often up- 
 braiding our religion, that had neither appointed nor set forth any 
 houres dfprayer or breviaries^ by which ladies and courtiers, who have 
 much ^pare time, might edify and be in devotion, as they had. Our 
 P rotesfai nrladys, scandaliz'd it seemes at this,.inov'd the matter to the 
 King, whereupon his Majesty presently call'd Bishop White to him, 
 and asked his thoughts of it, and whether there might not be found 
 some formes of prayer proper on such occasions, collected out of some 
 already approv'd formes, that so the court ladys and others (who spend 
 much time in trifling) might at least appeare as devout, and be so too, 
 as the new-come-over French ladys, who tooke occasion to reproch our 
 vvant of zeale and religion. On which the Bishop told his Majesty that 
 it might be don easily and was very necessary ; whereupon the King 
 commanded him to employ some person of the Cleargy to compile such 
 a work, and presently the Bishop naming Dr. Cosin, the King injoyn'd 
 him to charge the Dr. in his name to set about it immediately. This 
 the Dean told me he did, and 3 monethes after bringing the book to 
 the King, he commanded the Bishop of London to reade it over and. 
 make his report ; this was so well lik'd that (contrary to former custome 
 of doing it by a chaplain) he would needes give it an imprimatur vc^Aex 
 his owne hand. Upon this there were at first onely 200 copies printed ; 
 nor, said he, was there any thing in the whole book of my owne com- 
 posure, nor did I set any name as author to it, but those necessary 
 prefaces, &c. out of the Fathers, touching the times and seasons of 
 prayer, aU the rest being intirely translated and collected out of an 
 Office, publish'd by authority of Q. Elizabeth, ao 1560, and our owne 
 Liturgie. This I rather mention to justify that industrious and pious 
 Deane, who had exceedingly suffer'd by it, as if he had don it of his 
 owne head to introduce Popery, from which no man was more averse, 
 and one who in this time of temptation and apostacy held and confirm'd 
 many to our Church^. 
 
 29 October. Came newes and letters to the Queene and Sir Rich- 
 ard Browne (who was the first that had intelligence of it) of his Majes- 
 ties miraculous escape after the fight at Worcester, which exceedingly 
 rejoiced us. 
 
 7 Nov. I visited Sir Kenelm Digby, with whom I had much dis- 
 
 1 So called by Mr. Prynne in his brief survey of this book. The Dean was sequestered 
 from all his preferments by the Parliament, and went abroad to Paris 1643. He kept up the 
 service of the Church of England in Sir Rich. Browne's chapel there. On the Restoration 
 he was made Bishop of Durham, to which See, as well as to Peter House, at Cambridge, oi 
 which he had been Master, he was a most munificent benefactor. He died in 16^1. 
 
 ^The Clergy who attended the English Court at this time and are mentioned to have ofBci- 
 ated in Sir Richard Browne's Chapel were : The Bishop of Galloway ; Dr. Geo. Morley. 
 afterwards Bishop of Winchester ; Dr. Cosin, Dean of Peterborough, afterwards Bishop of 
 Durham ; Dr. Steward Dean of St. Paul's ; Dr. Earle ; Dr. Clare : Dr. Wolley, no great 
 Preacher; Mr. Crowder; Dr. Lloyd; Mr. Hamilton; Dr. Duncar, 
 
2l6 DEATH OF DR. STEWARD. MARRIAGE OF MRS. GARDNER. 
 
 course of chymical matters. I sheWd him a particular way of ex- 
 tracting oyle of sulphur, and he gave me a certaine powder with which 
 he affirm'd that he had fixed 5 (mercury) before the late King ; he 
 advis'd me to try and digest a little better, and gave me a water which 
 he said was onely raine water of the autumnal equinox exceedingly 
 rectified, very volatile ; it had a taste of a strong vitrioliq, and smelt 
 like aqua fortis. He intended it for a dissolvent of calx of gold ; but 
 the truth is, Sir Kenelm was an errant mountebank. — Came news of 
 the gallant Earle of Derby's execution by the rebells. 
 
 12. Dr. Clare preach'd on 28 Gen. v. 20, 21, 22, upon Jacob's vowe, 
 which he appositely applied, it being the first Sonday his Majesty 
 came to Chapell after his escape. I went in the afternoone to visite 
 the Earle of Norwich ; he lay at the Lord of Aubignies. 
 
 16. Visited Dean Steward, who had been sick about 2 daies, when 
 goingup to his lodging I found him dead, which affected me much, as be- 
 sides his particular affection and love to me, he was of incomparable 
 parts and great learning, of exemplary life, and a very greate losse to the 
 whole Church. He was buried the next day with all our Church's 
 ceremonies, many noble persons accompanying the corps. 
 
 17. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mrs. Gardner, maid of 
 honor, lately married to that odd person Sir Henry Wood : but riches 
 do many things. 
 
 I went to see Monsieur Febur's course of Chymistrie,'where I found Sir 
 Kenelm Digby and divers curious persons of learning and quality. It 
 was his first opening the course and preliminarys in order to operations. 
 
 I Dec. I now resolv'd to retume into England. 
 
 3. Sir Lewis Dives din'd with us, who relating some of his adven- 
 tures, shew'd me divers pieces of broad gold which, being in his pocket 
 in a fight, preserv'd his life by receiving a musket-bullet on them, 
 which deaden'd its violence so that it went no further, but made such 
 a stroake on the gbld as fix'd the impressions upon one another, bat- 
 tering and bending severall of them ; the bullet itselfe was flatted, and 
 retained on it the colour of the gold. He assur'd us that of an hundred 
 of them, which it seems he then had in his pocket, not one escap'd 
 without some blemish. He affirm'd that his being protected by a 
 Neapolitan Prince who conniv'd at his bringing some horses into 
 France, contrary to the order of the Vice-roy, by assistance of some 
 banditti, was the occasion of a difference betweene those greate men, 
 and consequently of the late civil war in that kingdom, the Vice-roy 
 having kill'd the Prince standing on his defence at his owne castle. 
 He told me that the second time of the Scots coming into England, the 
 King was six times their number, and might easily have beaten them, 
 but was betraied, as were all other his designes and councils by some, 
 even of his bed-chamber, meaning M. Hamilton, who copied Mon- 
 trose's letters from time to time when his Majesty was asleepe. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 21/ 
 
 II. Came to visite me Mr. Obadiah Walker of University College, 
 with his two Pupils the sons of my worthy friend Hen. Hyldiard, Esq. 
 whom I recommended to his care. 
 
 21. Came to visite my wife Mrs. Lane, the lady who conveied the 
 King to the sea-side at his escape from Worcester. Mr. John Cosin, 
 son to the Dean, debauch'd by the priests, wrote a letter to me to me- 
 diate for him with his father. I prepar'd tor my last journey, being 
 now resolved to leave France altogether. 
 
 25. The King and Duke receiv'd the Sacrament first by themselves. 
 Lords Biron and Wilmot holding the long towell all along the altar. 
 
 26. Came news of the death of that Rebell Ireton. 
 
 31. Preach'd Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated the Holy 
 Communion, which I received also, preparative of my journey, being 
 now resolved to leave France altogether, and to returne God Almighty 
 thanks for his gracious protection of me this past yeare. 
 
 1652, 2 Jan. News of my sister Glanville's death in childbed, which 
 exceedingly affected me. 
 
 I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in enamailing. 
 He wrought by the lamp figures in bosse of a large size, even to the 
 life, so that nothing could be better moulded. He told us greate 
 stories of a Genoese Jeweller who had the greate Arcanum, and had 
 made projection before him several! times. He mett him at Cyprus 
 travelling into Egypt, in his returne from whence he died at sea, and 
 the secret with him, that else he had promised to have left it to him ; 
 that all his effects were seized on and dissipated by the Greekes in the 
 vessell to an immense value. He also affirm'd, that being in a Gold- 
 smith's shop in Amsterdam, a person of very low stature came in and 
 desir'd the goldsmith to mealt him a pound of lead, which don he un- 
 screw'd the pummel of his sword, and taking out of a little box a 
 small quantity of powder, casting it into the crucible, pour'd an ingot 
 out, which when cold, he tooke up, saying, ' Sir, you will be paid for 
 your lead in the crucible,' and so went out immediately. When he 
 was gon the goldsmith found 4 ounces of good gold in it, but could 
 never set eye againe on the little man, tho' he sought all the Citty for 
 him. This Antonio asserted with greate obtestation, nor know I what 
 to think of it, there are so many impostors and people who love to tell 
 strange stories, as this artist did, who had been a greate rover, and 
 spake ten different languages. 
 
 13 Jan. I tooke leave of Mr. Waller, who having ben proscrib'dby 
 the Rebells, had obtain'd of them permission to returne, and was going 
 to England. 
 
 29. Aboundance of my French and English friends and some Ger- 
 mans came to take leave of me, and I set out in a coach for Calais, in 
 an exceeding hard frost which had continued some time. We got that 
 night to Beaumont; 30. to Beauvais ; 31. we found the ways very 
 
2l8 LEAVE FRANCE ; REACH SAVES COURT. FUNERAt OF IRETON. 
 
 deepe with snow, and it was exceeding cold ; din'd at Pois ; lay at 
 Pern^e, a miserable cottage of miserable people in a wood, wholly un- 
 fumish'd, but in a little time we had sorry beds and some provision, 
 which they told me they hid in the wood for feare of the frontier 
 enemy, the garrisons neere them continually plundering what they had. 
 They were often infested with wolves. I cannot remember that I ever 
 saw more miserable creatures. 
 
 I Feb. I din'd at Abbeville ; 2. din'd at Montreuil, lay at Bologne ; 
 3. came to Calais by 1 1 in the morning ; I thought to have embarqu'd 
 in the evening, but for feare of Pyrates plying neere the coast, I durst 
 not trust our small vessell, and stay'd till Monday following, when 2 or 
 3 lusty vessells were to depart. 
 
 I brought with me from Paris Mr. Christopher Wase, sometime 
 before made to resigne his fellowship in King's Coll. Cambridge, be- 
 cause he would not take the Covenant. He had ben a souldier in 
 Flanders, and came miserable to Paris. From his excellent learning, 
 and some relation he had to Sir R. Browne, I bore his charges into 
 England, and clad and provided for him till he should find some 
 better condition ; and he was worthy of it.^ There came with us 
 also Capt. Griffith, Mr. Tyrell, brother to Sir Timothy Tyrell of 
 Shotover (near Oxford). 
 
 At Calais I dined with my Lord Wentworth, and met with Mr. 
 Heath, Sir Richard Lloyd, Capt. Paine, and divers of our banish'd 
 friends, of whom understanding that the Count de la Strade Governor 
 of Dynldrke was in the towne, who had bought my wife's picture, taken 
 by Pyrates at sea the year before (my wife having sent it for me in 
 England) as my Lord of Norwich had inform'd me at Paris, I made 
 my addresse to him, who frankly told me that he had such a picture in 
 his owne bed-chamber amongst other ladys, and hrvw he came by it ; 
 seeming weU pleas'd that it was his fortune to preserve it for me, and 
 he generously promis'd to send it to any friend I had at Dover ; I 
 mentioned a French merchant there, and so tooke my leave. 
 
 6 Feb. I embark'd early in the packet-boat, but put my goods in a 
 stouter vessell. 'Twas calm, so that we got not to Dover till 8 at 
 night. I tooke horse for Canterbury, and lay at Rochester ; next day 
 to Gravesend, tooke a pair of oares, and landed at Sayes Court, where 
 1 stayed three days to refresh and look after my packet and goods, sent 
 by a stouter vessell. I went to visit my co: Richard Fanshawe, and 
 divers other friends. 
 
 March 6. Saw the magnificent funeral of that Arch-rebell Ireton, 
 carried in pomp from Somerset House to Westminster, accompanied 
 with divers regiments of souldiers horse and foote ; then marched the 
 mourners. General Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parliament- 
 men, officers, and 40 poore men in gownes, 3 led horses in housings of 
 
 ' Mr. Evelyn did afterwards procure him a situation. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 219 
 
 black cloth, 2 led in black velvet, and his charging-horse all cover'd 
 over with embrodery and gold on crimson velvet ; then the guydons, 
 ensignes, 4 heraulds carrying the armes of the State (as they cal'd it), 
 namely, the red crosse and Ireland, with the casq, wreath, sword, 
 spurrs, &c. ; next, a chariot canopied of black velvet and 6 horses, in 
 which was the corps ; the pall held up by the mourners on foote ; the 
 mace and sword, with other marks of his charge in Ireland (where he 
 died of the plague), carried before in black scarfs. Thus in a grave 
 pace, drums cover'd with cloth, souldiers reversing their armes, they 
 proceeded through the streetes in a very solemn manner. This Ireton 
 was a stout rebell, and had ben very bloudy to the King's party, 
 witnesse his severity at Colchester, when in cold blood he put to death 
 those gallant gentlemen. Sir Cha. Lucas and Sir George Lisle. My 
 CO. R. Fanshawe came to visite me and informe me of many consider- 
 able affaires. Sir Henry Herbert presented me with his brother my 
 Lord Cherburie's book ' De Veritate.' 
 
 9. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for my settle- 
 ment, no more intending to go out of England, but endeavour a settl'd 
 life, either in this or some other place, there being now so little appear- 
 ance of any change for the better, all being entirely in the RebeUs 
 hands, and this particular habitation and the estate contiguous to it 
 (belonging to my father-in-law actually in his Majesty's service), very 
 much suffering for want of some friend to rescue it out of the power of 
 the usurpers ; so as to preserve our interest, and take some care of my 
 other concemes, by the advice and endeavour of my friends I was ad- 
 vis'd to reside in it, and compound with the souldiers. This I was be- 
 sides authoriz'd by his Majesty to do, and encourag'd with a promise 
 that what was in lease from the Crowne, if ever it pleas'd God to restore 
 him, he would secure to us in^fee-ferme. I had also addresses and 
 cyfers to correspond with his Majesty and Ministers abroad : upon all 
 which inducements I was persuaded to settle henceforth in England, 
 having now run about the world, most part out of my owne country, 
 neere 10 yeares. I therefore now likewise meditated sending over for 
 my wife, whom as yet I had left at Paris. 
 
 14 Mar. I went to Leusham, where I heard an honest sermon on 
 2 Corinth. 5, 7, being the first Sonday I had ben at church since my 
 retume, it being now a rare thing to find a priest of the Church of 
 England in a parish pulpit, most of which were fiU'd with Independents 
 and Phanatics. 
 
 15 Mar. I saw the Diamond and Ruby launch'd in the Dock at 
 Deptford, carrying 48 brasse cannon each. Cromwell and his Gran- 
 dees present with greate acclamations. 
 
 18. That worthy divine Mr. Owen of Eltham, a sequestered person, 
 came to visite me. 
 
 Kg. Invited by Lady Garrard I went to London, where we had s- 
 
220 PRIMATE OF IRELAND. ECLIPSE OF THE SUN. 
 
 greate supper ; all the vessells, which were innumerable, were of Porce- 
 lan, she having the most ample and richest collection of that curiositie 
 in England. 
 
 22. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton to give him what 
 directions I was able about his garden, which he was now desirous to 
 put into some forme ; but for which he was to remove a mountaine 
 overgrowne with huge trees and thicket, with a moate within lo yards 
 of the house. This my brother immediately attempted, and that with- 
 out greate cost, for more than an hundred yards South, by digging 
 downe the mountaine and flinging it into a rapid streame, it not onely 
 carried away the sand, &c. but filled up the moate, and level'd that 
 noble area, where now the garden and fountaine is. The first occasion 
 of my brother making this alteration was my building the little retiring 
 place betweene the greate wood Eastward next the meadow, where 
 sometime after my father's death I made a triangular pond, or little 
 stew, with an artificial rock after my coming out of Flanders. 
 
 29 Mar. I heard that excellent Prelate the Primate of Ireland (Jacob: 
 Usher) preach in Lincoln's Inn, on 4 Hebrews, v. 16, encouraging of 
 penitent sinners. 
 
 5 April. My brother Geo. brought to Says Court Cromwell's Act of 
 Oblivion to all that would submit to the Government. 
 
 13. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my brother George's 
 wife, was deliver'd of a son. 
 
 I was moved by a letter out of France to publish the letter which 
 sometime since I sent to Deane Cosin's proselyted son ; but I did not 
 conceive it convenient, for feare of displeasing her Majesty the Queene- 
 
 15. I wrote to the Deane touching my buying his library, which was 
 one of the choicest collections of any private person in England. 
 
 The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely sent me the 
 picture of my wife from Dynkirk in a large tin case, without any charge. 
 It is of Mr. Bourdon, and is that which has the dog in it, and is to the 
 knees, but unfortunately it has been something spoil'd by washing it 
 ignorantly with soap-suds. 
 
 25. I went to visit Aid. Kendrick, a Fanatic Lord Mayor, who had 
 married a relation of ours, where I met with a Captain who had been 
 thirteen times to the East Indies. 
 
 29. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun so much threatened by 
 the astrologers, and which had so exceedingly alarm'd the whole Nation 
 that hardly any one would worke, nor stir out of their houses. So ridi- 
 culously were they abus'd by knavish and ignorant star-gazers. 
 
 We went this aftemoone to see the Oueene's House at Greenwich, 
 now given by the rebells to Bulstrode Whitlock, one of their unhappy 
 counsellors, and keeper of pretended liberties. 
 
 10 May. Passing by Smithfield I saw a miserable creature burning 
 who had murder'd her husband. I went to see some workmanship of 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 221 
 
 that admirable artist Reeves, famous for perspective and the tursiiug of 
 curiosities in ivorie. 
 
 29. I went to take order about a coach to be made against my 
 wife's coming, being my first coach, the pattern whereof I had brought 
 out of Paris. 
 
 30. I went to obtain of my Lord of Devonshire that my nephew 
 George might be brought up with my young Lord his son, to whom I 
 was recommending Mr. Wase. I also inspected the manner of cham- 
 bletting silk and grograms at one Monsieur La Dorees in Morefields, 
 and thence to Coll. Morley, one of their Councel of State, as then 
 caU'd, who had ben my scholefellow, to request a passe for my wife's 
 safe landing, and the goods she was to bring with her out of France, 
 which he courteously granted, and did me many other kindnesses, that 
 was a greate matter in those daies. 
 
 30. In the afternoone at Charlton Church, where 1 heard a Rabini- 
 cal sermon. Here is a faire monument in black marble of Sir Adam 
 Newton, who built that faire house neere it for Prince Henry, and 
 where my noble friend Sir Henry Newton succeeded him. 
 
 3 June. I receiv'd a letter from CoEonel Morley to the Magistrates 
 and Searchers at Rie, to assist my wife at her landing and to shew her 
 all civility. 
 
 4. I set out to meet her now on her journey from Paris, after she 
 had obtain'd leave to come out of that Citty, which had now ben be- 
 sieged some time by the Prince of Condi's armie in the time of the 
 rebellion, and after she had ben now neere twelve yeares from her owne 
 country, that is since five yeares of age, at which time she went over. 
 I went to Rie to meet her, where was an embargo on occasion of the 
 late conflict with the Holland fleete, the two Nations being now in 
 warr, and which made sailing v/ry unsafe. 
 
 On Whitsunday I went to the Church (which is a very faire one), and 
 heard one of their Canters, who dismiss'd the assembly rudely and with- 
 out any blessing. Here I stay'd till the loth with no small impatience, 
 when I walk'd over to survey the mines of Winchelsea, that ancient 
 Cinq-port, which by the remaines and mines of ancient streetes and 
 Dublic structures discovers it to have ben formerly a considerable and 
 large Citty. There are to be scene vast caves and vaults, walls and 
 towers, mines of monasteries and of a sumptuous church, in which are 
 some handsom monuments, especialy of the Templars, buried just in 
 the manner of those in the Temple at London. This place being now 
 all in rubbish, and a few despicable hovells and cottages onely stand- 
 ing, hath yet a Mayor. The sea which formerly render'd it a rich and 
 commodious port has now forsaken it. 
 
 1 1. About 4 in the afternoone being at bowles on the Greene, we dis- 
 cover'd a vessell, which prov'd to be that in which my wife was, and 
 which got into the harbour about 8 that evening to my no small joy. They 
 
222 ARRIVAL OF MV WIFE FROM FRANCE. ROBBED BY FOOTPADS. 
 
 had ben three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleete, thro' which 
 they pass'd, taken for fishers, which was great good fortune, there being 
 1 7 bailes of furniture and otlier rich plunder, which I blesse God came all 
 safe to land, together with my wife, and my Lady Browne her mother, 
 who accompanied her. My wife being discompos'd by having been so 
 long at sea, we set not forth towards home till the 14th, when hearing 
 the small-pox was very rife in and about London, and Lady Browne 
 having a desire to drink Tunbridge waters, I carried them thither and 
 staled in a very sweete place, private and refreshing, and tooke the 
 waters myself to the 23d, when I went to prepare for their reception, 
 leaving them for the present in their little cottage by the Wells. The 
 weather being hot, and having sent my man on before, I rod negli- 
 gently under favour of the shade, till within three miles of Bromley, at 
 a place call'd the Procession Oake, two cut-throates started out, and 
 striking with long staves at the horse and taking hold of the reines threw 
 me downe, took my sword, and haled me into a deepe thickett some 
 quarter of a mile from the highway, where they might securely rob 
 me, as they soone did. What they got of money was not considerable, 
 but they took two rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an 
 onyx, and a pair of bouckles set with rubies and diamonds, which were of 
 value, and after all bound my hands behind me, and my feete, having 
 before puU'd off my bootes ; they then set me up against an oake, with 
 most bloudy threats to cutt my throat if I offer'd to crie out or make any 
 noise, for they should be within hearing, I not being the person they 
 looked for. I told them if they had not basely surpri^'d me they shouldnot 
 have had so easy a prize, and that it would teach me never to ride neere 
 an hedge, since had I ben in the mid- way they durst not have adventur'd 
 on me ; at which they cock'd tiieir pistols, and told me they had long 
 guns too, and were 14 companions. I begg'd for my onyx, and told 
 them it being engraven with my armes would betray them, but nothing 
 prevail'd. My horse's bridle they slipt, and search'd the saddle, which 
 they pull'd off, but let the horse graze, and then turning againe bridl'd 
 him and tied him to a tree, yet so as he might graze, and thus left me 
 bound. My horse was perhaps not taken because he was mark'd and 
 cropt on both eares, and well known on that roade. Left in this manner 
 grievously was I tormented with flies, ants, and the sunn, nor was my 
 anxiety little how I should get loose in that solitary place, where I could 
 neither heare or see any creature but my poore horse and a few sheepe 
 stragling in the copse. After neere 2 houres attempting I got my 
 hands to turn palm to palm, having been tied back to back, and then it 
 was long before I could slip the cord over my wrists to my thumb, 
 which at last I did, and then soone unbound my feete, and saddling 
 my horse and roaming awhile about I at last perceiv'd dust to rise, and 
 soone after heard the rattling of a cart, towards which I made, and by 
 the help of two countiy men I got back into the high way. I rode to 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 223 
 
 Coli. Blount's, a greate justiciarie of the times, who sent out hue and 
 cry immediately. The next morning, sore as my wrists and armes 
 were, I went to London and got 500 tickets printed and dispers'd by an 
 officer of Goldsmiths Hall, and within 2 dales had tidings of all I had 
 lost except my sword which had a silver hilt, and some trifles. The 
 rogues had pawn'd one of my rings for a trifle to a goldsmith's servant 
 before the tickets had came to the shop, by which meanes they scap'd; 
 the other ring was bought by a victualler, who brought it to a gold- 
 smith, but he having seen the ticket seiz'd the man. I afterwards dis- 
 ■charg'd him on his protestation of innocence. Thus did God deliver 
 me from these villains, and not onely so, but restor'd what they tooke, 
 as twice before he had graciously don, both at sea and land ; I meane 
 when I had ben rob'd by pyrates, and was in danger of a considerable 
 losse at Amsterdam ; for which, and many, many signal preservations, 
 I am extreamely oblig'd to give thanks to God my Saviour. 
 
 25 May. After drowth of neare 4 monethes there fell so violent a 
 tempest of haile, raine, wind, thunder, and lightning, as no man had 
 seene the like in this age ; the haile being in some places four or five 
 inches about, brake all glasse about London, especialy at Deptford, and 
 more at Greenwich. 
 
 29. I retum'd to Tunbridge, and againe drank the water, till 10 July. 
 
 We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickard at Summer-hill 
 near Tunbridge (now given to that villain Bradshaw who condemned 
 the King.) 'Tis situated on an eminent hill, with a park, but has no- 
 thing else extraordinary. 
 
 4 July. I heard a sermon at Mr. Packer's' Chapell at Grooms- 
 bridge," a pretty melancholy seate, well wooded and water'd. In this 
 house was one of the French Kings' kept prisoner. The Chapell was 
 built by Mr. Packer's father, in remembrance of K. Charles the First 
 his safe returne out of Spaine.'' 
 
 9. We went to see Penshurst, the Earl of Leicester's, famous once 
 -for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the noble conversation which 
 was wont to meete there, celebrated by that illustrious person Sir Philip 
 Sidney, who had there compos'd divers of his pieces. It stands in a 
 ■park, is finely water'd, and was now full of company on the marriage of 
 my old fellow collegiate Mr. Robert Smith, who married my Lady 
 Dorothy Sidney' widdow of the Earle of Sunderland. 
 
 One of the men who robb'd me was taken ; I was accordingly sum- 
 >mon'd to appeare against him, and on the 12th was in Westminster 
 
 1 Clerk of the Privy Seal to King Charles I. 
 
 2 In the parish of Speldhurst in Kent, four miles from Tunbridge. 
 
 3 The Duke of Orleans taken at the battle of Agincourt 4 Hen. V. by Richard Waller, then 
 ■ owner of this place. Hasted's Kent, vol. I. p. 431. 
 
 * With this inscription over the door, ' D. O. M. 1623. ob felicissimi Caroli Principis ex 
 rHispanii reducis Sacellum hoc D. D. I. P.' over it the device of the Prince of Wales. 
 » Mr. Waller's Sicharissa, daughter of Philip Earl of Leicester. 
 
':24 REDEEM SAVES COUKT. DR. MASON. DEATH OF LADY BROWNE. 
 
 Hall, but not being bound over nor willing to hang the fellow I did not 
 appeare, coming onely to sa\i: .l friend's baile, but the bill being found 
 he was turn'd over to the Old Bailey. In the meane time I received a 
 petition from the prisoner, whose father I understood was an honest 
 old farmer in Kent. He was charg'd with other crimes, and con- 
 demn'd, but repriev'd. I heard afterwards that had it not been for his 
 jompanion, a younger man, he would probably have kill'd me. He 
 tvas afterwards charg'd with some other crime, but refusing to plead, 
 was press'd to death. 
 
 23. Came my old friend Mr. Spencer to visite me. 
 
 30 July. I took advice about purchasing Sir Richard's [Browne] 
 interest of those who had bought Sayes Court. 
 
 I Aug. Came old Jerome Lennier of Greenwich, a man skill'd in 
 painting and musiq, and another rare musitian call'd Mell. I went to 
 see his collection of pictures, especialy those of Julio Romano which 
 surely had ben the King's, and an Egyptian figure, &c. There were 
 also excellent things of Polydore, Guido, Raphael, Tintoret, &c. . 
 Lennier had been a domestic of Qu. Elizabeth, and shew'd me her 
 head, an intaglia in a rare sardonyx, cut by a famous Italian, which 
 he assur'd me was exceeding like her. 
 
 24. My first child, a sonn, was born precisely at one o'clock. 
 
 Sept 2. Mr. Owen, the sequestered Divine of Eltham, christened 
 my sonn by the name of Richard. 
 
 25. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, so famous for the prospect 
 (for the house is a wretched one) and the description of it in Barclay's 
 Icon Animarum.^ 
 
 22. I went to Woodcot, where Lady Browne was taken with a 
 scarlet fever and died. She was carried to Deptford, and interr'd in 
 the Church neere Sir Richard's relations with all decent ceremonies, 
 and according to the Church Office, for which I obtained permission, 
 after it had not ben us'd in that Church of 7 yeares. Thus ended an 
 excellent and virtuous lady, universally lamented, having ben so obliging 
 on all occasions to those who continualy frequented her house in Paris, 
 which was not only an hospital, but an asylum to all our persecuted 
 and afflicted countrymen during eleven yeares residence there in that 
 honourable situation. 
 
 5 Nov. I went to London to visite some friends, but the in- 
 solencies there were so greate in the streetes that I could not returne 
 till the next day. 
 
 1 The book here referred to is in the British Museum, intitled, "Joannis Barclaii Icoa 
 Animarum," printed at London 1614, small i2mo. It is written in Latin, and is dedicated to 
 Lewis XI IL of France, for what reason does not appear, the Author speaking of himself as a 
 subject of this Country. It mentions the necessity of forming the minds of youth, as a skilful 
 gardener forms his trees ; the different dispositions of men in different nations ; English, 
 Scotch, and Irish, &c. Cap. 2, contains a florid description of the beautiful scenery about 
 Greenwich, but does not mention Dr. Mason or his house. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 225 
 
 Dr. Scarborough was instant with me to give the Tables of Veins 
 and Arteries to the CoUedge of Physitians, pretending he would not 
 onely reade upon them, but celebrate my curiositie as being the first 
 who caus'd them to be compleated in that manner, and with that cost ; 
 but I was not so willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to the 
 CoUedge during their anatomical lectures, which I did accordingly. 
 
 22. I went to London, where was propos'd to me the promoting that 
 greate work, (since accomplish'd by Dr. Walton, Bishop of Chester) 
 Biblia Polyglotta, by Mr. Pierson that most learned divine. 
 
 25. Christmas day, no sermon any where, no Church being per- 
 mitted to be open, so observ'd it at home. The next day we went to 
 Lewesham, where an honest divine preach'd. 
 
 31 Dec. I adjusted all accompts, and render'd thanks to Aliliighty 
 God for his mercys to me the yeare past. 
 
 I Jan. 1653. I set apart in preparation for the B. Sacrament which 
 the next day Mr. Owen administered to me and all my family in Sayes 
 Court, preaching on 6 John 32. 33. shewing the exceeding benefits of 
 our blessed Saviour taking our nature upon him. He had christened 
 my son and churched my wife in our own house, as before noticed. _ -- 
 
 17 Jan. I began to set out the ovall garden at Sayes Court, which 
 was before a rude orchard and all the rest one intire field of 100 acres, 
 without any hedge, except the hither holly hedge joyning to the bank of 
 the mount walk. This was the beginning of all the succeeding gardens, 
 walks, groves, enclosures, and plantations there. 
 
 21. I went to London and there seal'd some of the writings of my pur- 
 chase of Sayes Court. 
 
 30 Jan. At our own parish Church a stranger preach'd. There was 
 now and then an honest orthodox man got into the pulpit, and tho' the 
 present incumbent was somewhat of the Independent, yet he ordinarily 
 preach'd sound doctrine, and was a peaceable man, which was an ex- 
 traordinary felicity in this age. 
 
 I Feb. Old Alex. Rosse (author of 'Virgilius Evangelizans,' and 
 many other little bookes) presented me with his book against Mr. 
 Hobbs's ' Leviathan.' 
 
 19. I planted the Orchard at Sayes Court, new moone, wind W. 
 
 22. Was perfected the seahng, livery and seizin of my purchase of 
 Sayes Court. My brother Geo. Glanvill, Mr. Scudamor, Mr. Offley, 
 Co. William Glanvill (son to Serjeant Glanvill, sometime Speaker of 
 the House of Commons), Co. Stephens, and severall of my friends dining 
 with me. I had bargain'd for ^^3200, but I paid £^%oo- 
 
 25 Mar. Came to see me that rare graver in taille douce Monsieur 
 Richett ; sent by Card. Mazarine to make a collection of pictures. 
 
 I I April. I went to take tba aire in Hide Park, where every coach 
 was made to pay a shilling, and horse 6d. by the sordid fellow who had 
 purchas'd it of the State as they were cal'd. 
 
226 CHARLTON. REV. MR. HIGHAM. BIRTH OF MY SONN JOHN. 
 
 17 May. My servant Hoare, who wrote those exquisite several 
 hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexie, caus'd, as I suppose, by tampering 
 with 5 (mercury) about an experiment in gold. 
 
 29. I went to London to take my last leave of my honest friend 
 Mr. Barton now dying : it was a gr<!ate losse to me and to my affaires. 
 On the sixth of June I attended his funeral. 
 
 8 June. Came my brother George, Capt. Evelyn the greate traveller, 
 Mr. Muschamp, my Co. Tho. Keightly, and a virtuoso fantastical Sy- 
 mons' who had the talent of embossing so to the life. 
 
 9 June. I went to visite my worthy neighbour Sir Hen. Newton [at 
 Charlton], and consider the prospect, which is doubtless for city, river, 
 ships, meadows, hill, woods, and all other amenities, one of the most 
 noble in the world ; so as had the house running water, it were a 
 princely seate. Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law came to visite 
 me, and he presented me with a seleniscope. 
 
 19. This day I paid all my debts to a farthing, 6 blessed day ! 
 
 21. My Lady Gerrard and one Esquire Knight, a very rich Gent, 
 living in Northamptonshire, visited me. 
 
 23. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my Collections. 
 
 27. Monsieur Roupel sent me a small phial of his aurum potabile, 
 with a letter shewing the way of administering it, and the stupendous 
 cures it had don at Paris ; but ere it came to me, by what accident I 
 know not, it was all run out. 
 
 17 Aug. I went to visite Mr. Hyldiard at his house at Horsley (for- 
 merly the great Sir Walter Raleigh's), where met me Mr. Oughtred the 
 famous mathematician ; he shew'd me a box or golden case of divers 
 rich and aromatic balsams, which a chymist a scholar of his had sent 
 him out of Germany. 
 
 21. I heard that good old man Mr. Higham the parson of the parish 
 of Wotton where I was bom, & who had baptized me, preach after his 
 very plaine way on Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the sea, 
 the ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to the fish. 
 
 22. We all went to Guildford to rejoice at the famous Inn, the Red 
 Lion, and to see the Hospital, and the monument of Arch-Bish. Abbot 
 the founder, who lies buried in the chapell of his endowment 
 
 28 Sept. At Greenwich preach'd that holy maityr Dr. Hewer 
 on Psalm 90 v. 11. magnifying the grace of God to penitents, and 
 threatning the extinction of his Gospel light for the prodigious impiety 
 of the age we live in. 
 
 II Oct. My sonn John Stansfield was borne, being my second child, 
 and christned by the name of my mother's father, that name now quite 
 extinct, being of Cheshire. Christen'd by Mr. Owen in my Library at 
 Sayes Court, where he afterwards churched my wife, I always making 
 
 * Abraham Simons, a strange character, but most excellent modeller after life, and engraver 
 of medals. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 
 
 227 
 
 use of him on these occasions, because the Parish Minister durst not 
 have officiated according to the forme and usage of the Church of 
 England, to which I always adhered. 
 
 25. Mr. Owen preach'd in my Library at Sayes Court on 18 Luke, 
 7. 8. an excellent discourse on the unjust judge, shewing why Almighty 
 God would sometimes be compared by such similitudes. He afterwards 
 administered to us all the Holy Sacrament. 
 
 28. Went to London to visit my Lady Gerrard, where I saw that 
 cursed woman call'd the Lady Norton, of whom it was reported that 
 she spit in our King's face as he went to the scaffold. Indeede her 
 talke and discourse was like an impudent woman. 
 
 21 Nov. I went to London to speak with Sir John Evelyn my kins- 
 man about the purchase of an estate of Mr. Lambard's at Westrara, 
 which afterwards Sir J. himself bought for his son-in-law Leech. — 
 
 4 Dec. Going this day to our Church I was surpriz'd to see a 
 tradesman, a mechanic, step up ; I was resolv'd yet to stay and see 
 what he would make of it. His text was from 2 Sam. ch. 23. v. 20. 
 ' And Benaiah went downe also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in. 
 the time of snow ; ' the purport was, that no danger was to be thought 
 difficult when God call'd for shedding of blood, inferring that now the 
 Saints were call'd to destroy temporal governments ; with such feculent 
 stuff ; so dangerous a crisis were things growne to. — 
 
 25. Christmas Day. No Churches or publiq assembly. I was faine 
 to passe the devotions of that blessed day with my family at home. 
 
 1654. 20 Jan. Came to see me my old acquaintance and the most 
 incomparable player on the Irish harp, Mr. Clarke, after his travells. 
 He was an excellent musitian, a discreete gentleman, borne in Devon- 
 shire (as I remember). Such musiq before or since did I never heare, 
 that instrument being neglected for its extraordinary difficulty ; but in 
 my judgment it is far superior to the Lute itselfe, or whatever speakes 
 with strings. 
 
 25. Died my son J. Stansfield, of convulsion fits ; buried at Dept- 
 ford on the East comer of the Church, and near his mother's 
 great-grandfather, &c. 
 
 8 Feb. Ash Wednesday. In contradiction to all costome and de- 
 cency, the Usurper Cromwell feasted at the Lord Maior's, riding in 
 triumph thro' the Citty. 
 
 14. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb ; he was a huge 
 beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth and found his tongue rough 
 like a cat's ; a sheepe also with 6 leggs, which made use of 5 of them 
 to walke; a goose that had 4 leggs, 2 crops, and as many vents. 
 
 29 March. That excellent man Mr. Owen preached in my Library 
 on Matt. 28. v. 6. a Resurrection Sermon, and after it we all received 
 the Holy Communion. 
 
 6 April. Came my Lord Herbert, Sir Kenelme Digbie, Mr. Denham, 
 and other friends, to see me. 
 
228 LADY brook's GARDEN. WINDSOR. START FOR WILTSHIRE. 
 
 15. I went to London to heare the famous Doctor Jeremy Taylor 
 ^since Bishop of Downe and Connor) at St. Gregg: on 6 Matt. 48. 
 concerning evangelical perfection. 
 
 5 May. I bound my laquay Tho. Headly apprentice to a carpenter, 
 giving with him five pounds and new cloathing ; he thrived vei-y well, 
 and became rich. 
 
 8. I went to Hackney to see my Lady Brook's garden, which was 
 one of the neatest and most celebrated in England, the house well fur- 
 nish'd, but a despicable building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tombs's 
 garden ; it has large and noble walks, some modem statues, a vineyard, 
 planted in strawberry borders, staked at 10 foote distances ; the ban- 
 quetting-house of cedar, where the couch and seates were carv'd a T an- 
 tique; some good pictures in the house, especialy one of Vandyke's, 
 being a Man in his shirt; also some of Stenwyck. I also call'd at Mr. 
 Ducie's who has indeede a rare collection of the best masters, and one 
 ■of the largest stories of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir Tho. Fowler's 
 aviarie, which is a poore businesse. 
 
 '"lo. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden,' now the 
 onely place of refreshment about the towne for persons of the best 
 quality to be exceedingly cheated at ; Cromwell and his partisans hav- 
 ing shut up and seiz'd on Spring Garden, which till now had ben the 
 usual rendezvous for the ladys and gallants at this season. 
 
 n. I now observed how the women began to paint themselves, for- 
 merly a most ignominious thing and us'd only by prostitutes. 
 
 14. There being no such thing as Church Anniversaries in the Paro- 
 -chial Assemblies, I was forced to provide at home for Whitsonday. 
 
 15. Came Sir Robt. StapIeton,the translator of Juvenal, to visiteme. 
 8 June. My wife and I set out in a coach and 4 horses, in our way 
 
 to visite relations of hers in Wiltshire and other parts, where we re- 
 solved to spend some moneths. We din'd at Windsor, and saw the 
 Castle and the Chapell of St. George, where they have laied our bless- 
 ed Martyr King Charles in the vault just before the altar. The 
 Church and workmanship in stone is admirable. The Castle itselfe 
 large in circumference, but the roomes melancholy and of antient mag- 
 nificence. The keepe, or mount, hath besides its incomparable pros- 
 pect a very profound well ; and the terrace towards Eaton, with the 
 park, meandering Thames, and sweete meadows, yield one of the most 
 delightful prospects. That night we lay at Reading. Saw my Lord 
 Craven's house at Causam [Caversham] now in ruines, his goodly 
 woods felling by the Rebells. 
 
 * Buckingham House (now the Queen's Palace) was built on the site of the32 gardens ; see 
 Dr. King, III. 73, ed. 1776; Malcolm's Londinium Redivium, IV. 263 ; but the latter after- 
 iwards. p. 327, says that the piece of ground called the Mulberry Garden was granted by 
 Charles II. in 1672 to Henry Earl of Arlington : in that case it would be what is now called 
 .Arlington Street, unless -t extended up to the Queen's Palace. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 329 
 
 9. Din'd at Marlborough, which having ben lately fir'd was now new 
 built. At one end of this towne we saw my Lord Seymour's house, ' 
 but nothing observable save the Mount, to which we ascended by 
 windings for neere halfe a mile. It seems to have ben cast up by hand. 
 We pass'd by Coll. Popham's, a noble seate, park and river. Thence to 
 Newberry, a considerable towne, and Donnington Castle famous for 
 its battle, siege, and castle : that this last had been the possession of 
 old Geofrie Chaucer. Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphry 
 Forster's, built d la moderne. Also that exceedingly beautifuU seate 
 of my Lord Pembroke, on the ascent of an hill, flank'd with wood, and 
 reguarding the river ; and so at night to Cadenham, the mansion of 
 Edward Hungerford, Esq. uncle to my wife, where we made some stay. 
 The rest of the weeke we did nothing but feast and make good cheere 
 to welcome my wife. 
 
 27. We all went to see Bathe, where 1 bathed in the Crosse Bathe. 
 Amongst the rest of the idle diversions of the towne, one musitian 
 was famous for acting a changeling, which indeede he personated 
 strangely. 
 
 The faciate of this Cathedrall is remarkable for its historical carving. 
 The King's Bath is esteem'd the fairest in Europe. The towne is in- 
 tirely built of stone, but the streetes narrow, uneven, and unpleasant- 
 Here we trifled and bathed, and intervisited with the company who- 
 frequent the place for health, &c. till the 30th, and then went to Bristoll,. 
 a Citty emulating London, not for its large extent but manner of build- 
 ing, shops, bridge, traffiq, exchange, market -place, &c. The Governor 
 shew'd us the Castle, of no greate concernment. The Citty wholly 
 mercantile, as standing neere the famous Severne, commodiously for 
 Ireland and the Western world. Here I first saw the manner of re- 
 fining suggar and casting it into loaves, where we had a collation of 
 eggs fried in the suggar furnace" together with excellent Spanish winer 
 but what was most stupendious to me was the rock of St. Vincent, a, 
 little distance from the towne, the precipice whereoff is equal to any- 
 thing of that nature I have seene in the most confragose cataracts of 
 the AJpes, the river gliding betweene them at an extraordinary depth. 
 Here we went searching for diamonds, and to the Hot Wells at its 
 foote. There is also on the side of this horrid Alp a very romantic 
 seate : and so we retum'd to Bathe in the evening, and on first July 
 to Cadenham. 
 
 4 July. On a letter from my wife's uncle, Mr. Pretyman, I waited 
 back on her to London, passing by Hungerford, a towne famous for its 
 troutes, and the next day ariv'd at Deptford, which was sixty miles, in 
 the extremity of heate. 
 
 ' Now the famous inn there. 
 
 " A kind of entertainment like that we now have of eating beef-steaJu drest on the stoker'.^ 
 sl.ONei and drink'ng porter at the famous brewhouses in London, 
 
230 VISIT OXFORD AND SEE THE ACTS, LIBRARY, AND MSS. 
 
 6. I went early to London, and the next day met my wife and com- 
 pany at Oxford, the eve of the Act. 
 
 8. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the scholes, and after 
 dinner the Proctor opened the Act at St. Marie's (according to custome) 
 and the Prevaricators their drolery. Then the Doctors disputed. We 
 supp'd at Wadham College. 
 
 9. Dr. French preach'd at St. Marie's on 12 Matt. 42. advising the 
 Students to search after true wisdome, not to be had in the bookes of 
 Philosophers, but in the Scriptures alone. In the afternoone the famous 
 Independent, Dr. Owen, perstringing Episcopacy. He was now Crom- 
 well's Vice-Chancelor. We din'd with Dr. Ward, Mathematical Pro- 
 fessor (since Bp. of Sarum), and at night supp'd in Balliol Coll. Hall, 
 where I had once ben Student and Fellow Commoner, and where they 
 made me extraordinarily welcome. 
 
 10. On Monday I went againe to the Scholes to heare the severall 
 Faculties, and in the afternoone tarried out the whole Act in St. 
 Marie's, the long speeches of the Proctors, the Vice-Chancellor, the 
 severall Professors, creation of Doctors by the cap, ring, kisse, &c. 
 those antient ceremonies and institution being as yet not wholy abolish'd. 
 Dr. Kendal, now Inceptor amongst others, performing his Act incom- 
 parably well, concluded it with an excellent oration, abating his Pres- 
 byterian animosities, which he witheld not even against that learned 
 and pious divine Dr. Hammond. The Act was closed with the speech 
 of the Vice-Chancellor, there being but 4 in Theologie, 3 in Medicine, 
 which was thought a considerable matter, the times consider'd. I din'd 
 at one Monsieur Fiat's, a Student at Exeter College, and supp'd at a mag- 
 nificent entertainment in Wadham Hall, invited by my deare and excel- 
 lent friend Dr. Wilkins, then Warden (afterwards the Bishop of Chester.) 
 
 11. Was the Latin sermon, which I could not be at, tho' invited, 
 being taken up at All Souls, where we had music, voices, and theorbos, 
 perform'd by some ingenious scholars. After dinner I visited that 
 miracle of a youth Mr. Chrisjopher Wxen, nephew of the Bishop of 
 Ely. Then Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln) Bibliothecarius of 
 the Bodleian Library, my most learned friend. He shew'd us the 
 rarities of that most famous place, manuscripts, medails, and other 
 
 I curiosities. Amongst the MSS. an old English Bible, wherein the 
 Eunuch mentioned to be baptized by Philip is called the Gelding: 'and 
 Philip and the Gelding went down into the water,' &c. The original 
 Acts of the Council of Basil 900 yeares since, with the bulla or leaden 
 affix, which has a silken cord passing thro' every parchment ; a MS. of 
 Venerable Bede of 800 yeares antiquity ; the old Ritual secundum usum. 
 Sarum, exceeding voluminous ; then amongst the nicer curiosities, the 
 Proverbs of Solomon written in French by a lady,' every chapter of a 
 
 * Mrs. Esther Inglisb, married to Bartholomew Kello, Rector of Willinghall Spain in Esses. 
 ^ee an account of her curious penmanship in Massey's Origin and Progress of Letters. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELVN. 231 
 
 severall character or hand the most exquisite imaginable ; an hierogly- 
 phical table or carta folded up like a map, I suppose it painted on 
 asses hide, extremely rare ; but what is most illustrious, there were no 
 less than 1000 MSS. in 19 languages, especialy Oriental, furnishing 
 that new part of the Library built by Abp. Lawd from a designe of Sir 
 , Kenelme Digby and the Earle of Pembrook. In the closet of the 
 Tower they shew some Indian weapons, urnes, lamps, &c. but the rarest 
 is the whole Alcoran written on one large sheet of calico, which is made 
 up in a priest's vesture or cope, after the Turkish and Arabic character, 
 so exquisitely written as no printed letter comes neere it ; also a roll of 
 magical charms, divers talismans, and some medails. 
 
 Then I led my wife into the Convocation House, finely wainscoted ; 
 the Divinity Schole and Gotic carv'd roofe ; the Physick or Anatomie 
 Scheie, adorn'd with some rarities of natural things, but nothing 
 extraordinary save the skin of a jaccall, a rarely colour'd jacatoo or 
 prodigious large parrot, 2 humming birds not much bigger than our 
 humble bee, which I had not seene before, that I remember. 
 
 12. We went to St. John's, saw the Library and the 2 skeletons 
 which are finely cleans'd and put together ; observable is here also the 
 store of mathematical instruments, cheifely given by the late Abp. 
 Lawd, who built here an handsome quadrangle. 
 
 Thence we went to New College, where the Chapel was in its ancient 
 garb, notwithstanding the scrupulositie of the times. Thence to Christ's 
 Church, in whose library was shew'd us an Office of Hen. 8, the writing 
 miniatures, and gilding whereof is equal if not surpassing any curiosity 
 I had seene of that kind ; it was given by their founder. Cardinal 
 Wolsey. The glasse windows of the Cathedrall (famous in my time), 
 I found much abus'd. The ample Hall and columne that spreads its 
 capital to sustaine the roofe as one goes up the stayres is a very 
 remarkable structure. 
 
 Next we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw the Library and 
 Chapell, which was likewise in pontifical order, the altar onely I think 
 tui^n'd table-wise, and there was still the double organ, which abomina- 
 tions (as now esteem'd) were almost universaly demohsh'd ; Mr. Gibbon, 
 that famous musitian, giving us a taste of his skill and talents on that 
 instrument. 
 
 Hence we went to the Physick Garden, where the sensitive plant 
 was shew'd us for a greate wonder. There grew canes, olive-trees, 
 rhubarb, but no extraordinary curiosities, besides very good fruit, 
 which when the ladys had tasted, we returned in our coach to our 
 lodgings. 
 
 13. We all din'd at that most obliging and universally-curious Dr. 
 Wilkins's, at Wadham. College. He was the first who shew'd me the 
 transparent apiaries, which he had built like castles and palaces, and 
 so order'd them one upon another as to take the hony without destroy- 
 
232 BEE HIVE. CADENHAM. BROAD-HINTON ; DRUNK SERVANTS. 
 
 ing the bees. These were adorn 'd with a variety of dials, little statu 3 5, 
 vanes, &c. and he was so aboundantly civil, as finding me pleas'd with 
 them, to present me with one of the hives which he had empty, and 
 which I afterwards had in my garden at Sayes Court, where it continu'd 
 many years, and which his Majestie came on purpose to see and con- 
 template with much satisfaction. He had also contriv'd an hollow 
 statue which gave a voice and utter'd words, by a long conceal'd pipe 
 that went to its mouth ', whilst one speaks through it at a good dis- 
 tance. He had above in his lodgings and gallery variety of shadows, 
 dyals, perspectives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magi- 
 cal curiosities, a way-wiser, a thermometer, a monstrous magnet, conic 
 and other sections, a ballance on a demi-circle, most of them of his 
 owne and that prodigious young scholar Mr. Chr.Wren, who presented 
 me with a piece of white marble, which he had stain'd with a lively red 
 very deepe, as beautiful as if it had ben natural. 
 
 Thus satisfied with the civilities of Oxford, we left it, dining at Fa- 
 ringdon, a towne which had ben newly fir'd during the warrs ; and 
 passing neere the seate of Sir Wal. Pie, we came to Cadenham. 
 
 1 6. We went to another uncle and relative of my wife's, Sir John 
 Glanvill, a famous lawyer, formerly Speaker of the House of Commons j 
 his seate is at Broad-Hinton, where he now liv'd, but in the Gate- 
 house, his very faire dwelling house having ben burnt by his owne 
 hands to prevent the rebells making a garrison of it. Here my cousin 
 Will. Glanvill, his eldest sonn, shew'd me such a lock for a doore, that 
 for its filing and rare contrivances was a master-piece, yet made by a 
 country black-smith. But we have seene watches made by another 
 with as much curiositie as the best of that profession can brag of ; and 
 not many yeares after, there was nothing more frequent than all sorts 
 of Iron-work more exquisitely wrought and polish'd than in any part of 
 Europ, so as a dore-lock of a tolerable price was esteem'd a curiositie 
 even among forraine princes. 
 
 Went back to Cadenham, and on the 19th to Sir Ed. Baynton's at 
 Spie Park, a place capable of being made a noble seate ; but the hu- 
 mourous old Knight has built a long single house of 2 low stories on 
 the precipice of an incomparable prospect, and landing on a bowling 
 greene in the park. The house is like a long barne, and has not a 
 window on the prospect side. After dinner they went to bowles, and in 
 the meanetime our coach-men were made so exceedingly drunk, that in 
 returning home we escap'd greate dangers. This it seems was by order 
 of the Knight, that all gentlemen's servants be so treated ; but the 
 custome is a barbarous one, and much unbecoming a Knight, still 
 lesse a Christian. 
 
 20. We proceeded to Salisbv ry ; the Cathedral I take to be the com- 
 
 ^ This reminds us of the speaking figu'fcs so long exhibited in Spring Gardens, and i.i Lei- 
 cester Fields, scflae years ago. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 233 
 
 pleatest piece of Gotic worke in Europe, taken in all its uniformitie. 
 The pillars, reputed to be cast, are of stone manifestly cut out of the 
 quarry ; most observable are those in the Chapter-house. There are 
 some remarkable monuments, particularly the antient Bishops founders 
 of the Church, Knights Templars, the Marques of Hartford's, the 
 cloysters of the palace and garden, and the greate mural dial. 
 
 In the afternoone we went to Wilton, a fine house of the Earl of Pem- 
 broke, in which the most observable are the dining-roome in the modem 
 built part towards the garden, richly gilded and painted with story by 
 De Creete ; also some other apartments, as that of hunting landskips 
 by Pierce ; some magnificent chimny-pieces after the best French 
 manner ; a paire of artificial winding-stayres of stone, and divers rare 
 pictures. The garden, heretofore esteem'd the noblest in England, is 
 a large handsom plaine, with a grotto and water-works, which might be 
 made much more pleasant were the river that passes through cleans'd 
 and rais'd, for all is effected by a meere force. It has a flower garden 
 not inelegant. But after all, that which renders the seate delightful 
 is its being so neere the downes and noble plaines about the country 
 contiguous to it. The stables are well order'd and yeild a gracefull 
 front, by reason of the walkes of lime-trees, with the court and fountaine 
 of the stables adorn'd with the Caesar's heads. 
 
 We returned this evening by the plaine, and 14 mile race, where out 
 of my lord's hare-warren we were entertained with a long course of an 
 hare for neere 2 miles in sight. Neere this is a pergola or stand, built 
 to view the sports : and so we came to Salisbury, and viewed the most 
 considerable parts of the Citty. The merket place with most of the 
 streetes are water'd by a quick current and pure streame running thro' 
 the middle of them, but are negligently kept, when with small charge 
 they might be purg'd and render'd infinitely agreeable, and made one 
 of ths sweetest townes, but now the common buildings are despicable 
 and the streetes are dirty. 
 
 22 July. We departed and din'd at a ferme of my uncle Hunger- 
 ford's, call'd Darneford Magna, situate in a vally under the plaine, most 
 sweetly water'd, abounding in trouts catch 'd by speare in the night 
 when they come attracted by a light set in the sterne of a boate. 
 
 After dinner, continuing our returne, we passed over the goodly 
 plaine, or rather sea of carpet, which I think for evenness, extent, ver- 
 dure, and innumerable flocks, to be one of the most delightful prospects 
 in nature, and reminded me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we reade 
 of in Romances. 
 
 Now we were arived at Stone-henge, indeede a stupendious monu^ 
 ment, appearing at a distance like a castle ; how so many and huge 
 pillars of stone should have ben brought together, some erect, others 
 transverse on the tops of them, in a circular area as rudely represent- 
 ing a cloyster or heathen and more natural temple, is wonderfuU. The 
 
234 STONEHENOE ; LEICESTERSHIRE ; GLOUCESTER. 
 
 stone is so exceeding hard, that all my strength with a hammer could 
 not breake a fragment, which hardnesse I impute to their so long ex- 
 posure. To number them exactly is very difficult, they lie in such 
 variety of postures and confusion, tho' they seem'd not to exceed loo ; 
 we counted onely 95. As to their being brought thither, there being 
 no navigable river neere, is by some admir'd ; but for the stone there 
 seemes to be the same kind about 20 miles distant, some of which 
 appeare above ground. About the same hills are divers mounts rais'd, 
 conceiv'd to be ancient intrenchments, or places of burial after bloudy 
 fights. We now went by the Devizes, a reasonable large towne, and 
 came late to Cadenham. 
 
 27. I went to the hunting of a sorel deere, and had excellent chase 
 for 4 or 5 houres, but the venison little worth. 
 
 29 July. I went to Langford to see my cousin Stephens. I also saw 
 Dryfield, the house heretofore of Sir John Pretyman, grendfather to my 
 wife, and sold by her uncle ; both the seate and house very honourable 
 and well built, much after the modern fashion. 
 
 31. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had ben long and nobly 
 entertain'd, we went a compass into Leicestershire, where dwelt another 
 relation of my wife's ; for I indeede made these excursions to shew her 
 the most considerable parts of her native country, who from her child- 
 hood had liv'd altogether in France, as well as for my owne curiosity 
 and information. 
 
 Aoout two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have a prospect 
 from woody hills into a most goodly vale and country. Gloucester is a 
 handsome Citty, considerable for the Church & monuments. The 
 Minster is indeede a noble fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, 
 being thro' a passage of 25 yards, in a many-angled cloister, and was, 
 I suppose, either to shew the skill of the architect, or some invention of 
 a cunning priest, who standing unseene in a recesse in the middle of 
 the Chappell, might heare whatever was spoken at either end. This is 
 above the quire, in which lies buried K. Stephen under a monument of 
 Irish oake, not ill carved considering the age. The new Librarie is a 
 noble tho' a private designe. I was likewise pleased with the Seveme 
 gliding so sweetely by it. The Duke's house, the Castle workes, are 
 now almost quite dismantl'd ; nor yet without sad thoughts did I see the 
 Towne, considering how fatal the siege had ben a few yeares before to 
 our good King. 
 
 I August. We sat out towards Worcester by a way thick planted 
 with cider-fruit. We deviated to the Holy Wells, trickling out of a 
 vaUy thro' a steepe declivity towards the foote of the greate Mauvern 
 Hills ; they are said to heale many infirmities, as king's evil, leaprosie. 
 sore eyes, &c. Ascending a great height above them to the Trench 
 dividing England from South Wales, we had the prospect of all Here- 
 fordshire, Radnor, Brecknock, Monmouth, Worcester, Gloucester, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 235 
 
 Shropshire, Warwick, Derby shires, and many more. We could dis- 
 cern Tewxbery, King's-rode towards Bristol, &c. so as I esteeme it one 
 of the goodliest vista's in England. 
 
 2. This evening we ariv'd at Worcester, the Judges of Assize and 
 Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing the Towne the next day, we 
 found the Cathedral much ruin'd by the late warrs, otherwise a noble 
 structure. The Towne is neately pav'd and very cleane, the goodly 
 river Severne running by it, and standing in a most fertile country. 
 
 3. We pass'd next thro' Warwick, and saw the Castle, the dwelling- 
 house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture noble. It is built on an 
 eminent rock which gives prospect into a most goodly greene, a woody 
 and plentifully watred country ; the river running so delightfully under 
 it, that it may passe for one of the most surprising seates one should 
 meete with. The gardens are pretily disposed, but might be much 
 improVd. Here they shew us Sir Guy's greate two-handed sword, 
 staff, horse-armes, pott, and other reliques of that famous knight-errant. 
 Warwick is a faire old Towne, and hath one Church full of antient 
 monuments. Having viewed these, I went to visite my worthy friend 
 Sir H. Puckering at the Abby, and tho' a melancholy old seate, yet in 
 a rich soile. Hence to Sir Guy's Grott, where they say he did his 
 penances and dyed. 'Tis a squalid den made in the rock, crown'd yet 
 with venerable oakes and looking on a goodly streame, so as, were it 
 improv'd as it might be, 'twere capable of being made a most romantiq 
 and pleasant place. Neere this we were shew'd his chapell and gigantic 
 statue hewn out of the solid rock, out of which there are likewise divers 
 other caves cut, & some very capacious. The next place to Coventry. 
 The Crosse is remarkable for Gotic worke and rich gilding, comparable 
 to any I had ever seene except that of Cheapeside in London, now demo- 
 lish'd. This Citty has many handsome churches, a beautiful! wall, a 
 faire free-schole and librarie to it ; the streetes full of greate shops, 
 cleane and well pav'd. At going forth the Gate they shew us the bone 
 or rib of a wild boare said to have beene kill'd by Sir Guy, but which 
 I take to be the chine of a whale. 
 
 4. Hence riding thro' a considerable part of Leicestershire, an 
 open, rich, but unpleasant country, we came late in the evening to 
 Horninghold, a seate of my wife's unkle [not nam'd]. 
 
 7. Went to Uppingham, the Shire-towne of Rutland, pretty and 
 well builte of stone, which is a rarity in that part of England, where 
 most of the rural parishes are but of mud, and the people living as 
 wretchedly as in the most impoverish'd parts of France, which they 
 much resemble, being idle and sluttish. The country (especialy Lei- 
 cestershire) much in common ; the gentry free drinkers. 
 
 g , To the old and ragged Citty of Leicester, large and pleasantly 
 seated, but despicably built, the chimney flues like so many smiths 
 forges; however, famous for the tombe of the Tyrant Richard thei 
 
236 LEICESTER; OAKHAM; NEWARK-ON-TRENT ; SHERWOOD FOREST. 
 
 Third, which is now converted to a cistern, at which (I think) cattel 
 drink. Also here in one of the Churches Hes buried the magnificent 
 Cardinal Wolsey. John of Gaunt has here also built a large but poore 
 Hospital, neere which a wretch has made him an house out of the 
 ruines of a stately church. Saw the ruines of an old Roman Temple, 
 thought to be of Janus. Entertain'd at a very fine collation of fruits, 
 such as I did not expect to meet with so far North, especialy very 
 good melons. We return'd to my unkle's. 
 
 14. I tooke a journey into the Northern parts, riding thro' Oakham, 
 a pretty towne in Rutlandshire, famous for Ihe tenure of the Barons 
 (Ferrars), who hold it by taking off a shoe from every nobleman's 
 horse that passes with his Lord thro' the streete, unlesse redeem'd 
 with a certain piece of money. In token of this are severall gilded 
 shoes nail'd up on the Castle-gate, which seemes to have ben large 
 and faire. Hence we went by Brook, a very sweete seate and parke of 
 the old Lady Camdens. Next by Burleigh House, belonging to the 
 Duke of Buckingham,' and worthily reckon'd among the noblest seates 
 in England, situate on the brow of an hill, built a la moderne neere a 
 park wall'd in, and a fine wood at the descent. 
 
 Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seate belonging to Mr. 
 Heath, sonn to the late Lord Cheif Justice of that name. Here, after 
 dinner, parting with the company that conducted us that far, I pass'd 
 that evening by Belvoir Castle, built on a round mount at the point of 
 a long ridge of hills, which affords a stately prospect, and is famous 
 for its strenuous resistance in the late civil warr. 
 
 Went by Newark on Trent, a brave towne and garison. Next by 
 Wharton House, belonging to the Lord Cha worth, an handsom seate ; 
 then by Home, a noble place belonging to the Marques of Dorchester, 
 and pass'd the famous river Trent, which divides the South from the 
 North of England, and so lay that night at Nottingham. This whole 
 Towne and County seemes to be but one entire rock as it were, an 
 exceeding pleasant shire, full of gentry. Here I observ'd divers to 
 live in the rocks and caves, much after the manner as about Tours in 
 France. The Church is well built on an eminence ; there is a faire 
 house of the Lord Clare's, another of Pierrepoints ; an ample merket- 
 place ; large streetes full of crosses ; the reliques of an ancient castle 
 hollow'd, beneath which are many caverns, especialy that of the Scots 
 King, and his work whilst there. This place is remarkable for being 
 the place where his Majesty first erected his standard at the beginning 
 of our late unhappy differences. The prospects from this citty towards 
 the river and meadows are most delightfull. 
 
 ij. We pass'd next thro' Sherewood Forest, accounted the most 
 
 1 Called Burleigh on the Hill, for distinction from the Earl of Exeter's near Stamford. The 
 Duke of Buckingham sold it to the family of Finch, now Earl of Winchelsea and Nottingham> 
 towhom it belongs. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVKLYN. 237 
 
 extensive in England. Then Paplewick, an incomparable vista with 
 
 the pretty castle neere it. Thence we saw Newstead Abby belonging 
 to the Lord Biron, situated much like Fontaine-bleau in France, 
 capable of being made a noble seate. accommodated as it is with brave 
 woods and streames ; it has yet remaining the front of a glorious Abby 
 Church. Next by Mansfield Towne ; then Wellbeck, the house of the 
 Marques of Newcastle, seated in a botome in a park, and environ'd 
 with woods, a noble yet melancholy seate. The palace is a handsom 
 and stately building. Next to Worksop Abby, almost demolish'd; the 
 Church has a double flat towre intire, and a pretty gate. The Mannor 
 belongs to the Earle of Arundel, and has to it a faire house at the foote 
 of an hill in a park that afords a delicate prospect. Tickel, a Towne 
 and Castle, has a very noble aspect. All these in Nottinghamshire. 
 
 i6. We ariv'd at Doncaster, where we lay this night ; it is a large 
 faire towne, famous for greate wax-lights and good stockings. 
 
 17. Pass'd thro' Pontefract ; the Castle, famous for many sieges 
 both of late and ancient times, and the death of that unhappy King 
 murdered in it (Richard II.) was now demolishing by the Rebells ; it 
 stands on a mount and makes a goodly shew at a distance. The 
 Queene has an house here, and there are many faire seats neere it, 
 especialy Mr. Pierrepoint's, built at the foote of an hill out of the Castle 
 mines. We all alighted in the highway to drink at a cristal spring 
 which they call Robin Hood's Well ; neere it is a stone chaire, and an 
 iron ladle to drink out of, chain'd to the seate. We rode to Tadcaster, 
 at the side of which we have prospect of the Archbishop's Palace (which 
 is a noble seate), and in sight of divers other gentlemen's faire houses. 
 This tract is a goodly, fertile, well-water'd and wooded country, abound- 
 ing with pasture and plenty of provisions. 
 
 17 August. To York, the second Citty of England, fairely wall'd, 
 of a circular forme, water'd by the brave river Ouse, bearing vessels of 
 considerable burthen on it ; over it is a stone bridge emulating that of 
 London, and built on, the middle arch is larger than any I have scene 
 in England, with a wharfe of hewn stone, which makes the river 
 appeare very neate. But most remarkable and worthy seeing is St. 
 Peter's Cathedrall, which of all the greate churches in England had 
 ben best preserv'd from the furie of the sacrilegious,' by composition 
 with the Rebells when they tooke the Citty, during the many incursions 
 of Scotch and others. It is a most intire magnificent piece of Gotic 
 architecture. The skreene before the quire is of stone carv'd with 
 flowers, running work and statues of the old Kings. Many of the 
 monuments are very ancient. Here, as a greate rarity in these dayes 
 and at this time, they shew'd me a Bible and Common Prayer Book 
 cover'd with crimson velvet, and richly emboss'd with silver gilt ; also 
 a service for the altar of guilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, euer, chali- 
 
 ' By Sir Thomas Fairfai. 
 
438 YORK ; BEVERLY ; HULL ; LINCOLN AND ITS CATHEDRAL. 
 
 ces, patins, &c. with a gorgeous covering for the altar and pulpit, care- 
 fully preserv'd in the Vestrie, in the hollow wall whereof rises a 
 plentiful! spring of excellent water. I got up to the Towre, whence we 
 had a prospect towards Duresme, and could see Rippon, part of Lan- 
 cashire, the famous and fatal Marston Moore, the Spaws of Knares- 
 
 brough, and all the environs of that admirable country, Sir 
 
 Ingoldsby has here a large house, gardens, and tennis court ; also the 
 King's house and Church neere the Castle, which was modemly forti- 
 fied with a palizade and bastions. The streetes are narrow and ill 
 pav'd, the shops like London. 
 
 1 8 Aug. We went to Beverly, a large towne with 2 stately churches, 
 St. John's and St. Marie's, not much inferior to the best of our Cathe- 
 drals. Here a very old woman shew'd us the monuments, and being 
 above 100 yeares old, spake the language of Queen Marie's dales, in 
 whose time she was born ; she was widow of a Sexton who had belong'd 
 to the church an hundred yeares. 
 
 Hence we pass'd thro' a fenny but rich country to Hull, situate like 
 Calais, modemly and strongly fortified with three block-houses of brick 
 and earth. It has a good mercat-place and harbour for ships. Famous 
 also (or rather infamous) is this towne for Hotham's refusing enterance 
 to his Majesty. The Water-house is worth seeing. And here ends 
 the South of Yorkshire. 
 
 19. We passe the Humber, an arme of the sea of about 2 leagues 
 breadth. The weather was bad, but we cross'd it in a good barg to 
 Barton, the first towne in that part of Lincolnshire. All marsh ground 
 till we came to Brigg, famous for the plantations of licorice, and then 
 had brave pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salisbury 
 Plaine. Lincoln is an old confus'd towne, very long, uneven, steepe, 
 and ragged ; formerly full of good houses, especialy churches and 
 abbies. The minster almost comparable to that of York itselfe, 
 abounding with marble pillars and having a faire front. Herein was 
 interr'd Q. Elianor, the loyal and loving wife who suck'd the poison 
 out of her husband's wound ; the Abbot founder, with rare carving in 
 the stone ; the greate Bell, or Tom, as they call it ; I went up the 
 steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all over the country. The 
 souldiers had lately knocked off most of the brasses from the grave- 
 stones, so as few inscriptions were left ; they told 'js that these men 
 went in with axes and hammers, and shut themselves in, till they had 
 rent and tome off some barge-loads of mettal, not sparing even the 
 monuments of the dead, so hellish an avarice possessed them ; besides 
 which thpy exceedingly ruin'd the Citty. 
 
 ,' Here I saw a tall woman six foote two inches high, comely, middle 
 
 ,' ag'd and well proportion'd, who kept a very neate and cleane ale-house, 
 
 and got most by people's coming to see her on account of her height. 
 
 20. From hence we had a most pleasant ride over a large heath 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 339 
 
 open like Salisbury Plaine, to Grantham, a pretty towne, so well situ- 
 ated on the side of a bottome, which is large and at distance inviron'd 
 with ascending grounds, that for pleasure 1 consider it comparable to 
 most inland places of England : famous is the Steeple for the exceed- 
 ing height of the shaft, which is of stone. 
 
 About 18 miles we passe by a noble seate, and see Boston at a dis- 
 tance. Here we came to a parish of which the parson has Tithe Ale. 
 
 Thence thro' Rutland we brought night to Horninghold, from whence 
 I sat out on this excursion. 
 
 22. I went a setting and hawking, where we had tolerable sport. 
 
 25. I went to see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord Hatton's in 
 Northamptonshire, built a la moderne; the garden and stables agree- 
 able, but the avenue was ungraceful and the seate naked : returned 
 that evening. 
 
 27. Mr. Allington preach'd an excellent discourse from Romans 6, 
 19. This was he who publish'd those bold sermons of the members 
 warring against the mind, or the Jewes crucifying Christ, applied to 
 the wicked regicides, for which he was ruin'd. We had no sermon in 
 the afternoone. 
 
 30. Taking leave of my friends who had now feasted me more than 
 a moneth, I, with my wife, &c. set our faces towards home, and got 
 this evening to Peterborow, passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of St 
 John's (one deepe in the bloud of our good King), built out of the 
 ruines of the Bishops Palace and Cloyster. The Church is exceeding 
 faire, full of monuments of greate antiquity. Here lies Queene Catha- 
 rine, the unhappy wife of Hen. VIII. and the no lesse unfortunate 
 Mary Q. of Scots. On the steeple we view'd the Fens of Lincolnshire, 
 now much inclos'd and drained with infinite expence, and by many 
 sluices, cutts, mounds, and ingenious mills, and the like inventions, at 
 which the Citty and country about it, consisting of a poore and very 
 lazy sort of people, were much displeas'd. 
 
 Peterborow is an handsome towne, and hath in it another well- 
 built Church. 
 
 31. Thro' part of Huntingdon shire we passe that towne, faire and 
 ancient, a river running by it. The country about it so abounds in 
 wheate, that when any King of England passes thro' it they have a 
 costom to meet him with an hundred plows. 
 
 This evening to Cambridge ; and went first to see Sl John's CoUedge, 
 well built of brick, and Librarie, which I think is the fairest of that 
 University. One Mr. Benlowes ' has given it all the ornaments of 
 Pietra Commessa', whereof a table and one piece of perspective is very 
 
 1 Edward Benlowes, Esq. a writer of Divine Poesy, of a good family in Essex and of a 
 good estate, but which he wasted by improvident liberality, aad buying curiosities, as Wood 
 says. Wood's Fasti, 876. 
 
 * Marble inlaid of various colours, represeotiiig flowers, birds, && 
 
24D CAMBRIDGE ; COLLEGES, LIBRARIES, AND SCHOOLS SEEN. 
 
 fine ; other trifles there also be of no great value, besides a vast old 
 song book or service, and some faire manuscripts. There hangs in the 
 library the picture of John Williams Abp. of York sometime Lord 
 Keeper, my kinsman and their greate benefactor. 
 
 Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quadrangle of any 
 University in Europ, but in truth is far inferior to that of Christ Church 
 in Oxford : the hall is ample and of stone, the fountaine in the quad- 
 rangle is gracefuU, the Chapell and Library faire. There they shew'd 
 us the prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but the passage 
 and emblem which they would apply to our late King, is manifestly re- 
 lating to the Swedish ; in truth it seemes to be a meere fantastic rhap- 
 sody, however the title may bespeake strange revelations. There is an 
 Office in manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities 
 given by the Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VIL and the 
 before mention'd Abp. Williams when Bishop of Lincoln. The Library 
 is pretty well stor'd. The Greeke Professor had me into another large 
 quadrangle cloistered and well built, and gave us a handsome collation 
 in his own chamber. 
 
 Thence to Caius, and afterwards to King's College, where I found the 
 Chapel altogether answer'd expectation, especialy the roofe all of stone, 
 which for the flatness of its laying and carving, may I conceive vie with 
 any in Christendome. The contignation of the roof (which I went upon) 
 weight and artificial joyneing of the stones is admirable. The lights 
 are also very faire. In one ile lies the famous Dr. Collins so celebrated 
 for his fluency in the Latin tongue. From this roofe we could descry 
 Ely, and the incampment of Sturbridge faire now beginning to set up 
 their tents and boothes ; also Royston, Newmarket, &c. houses belong- 
 ing to the King. The Library is too narrow. 
 
 Clare Hall is of a new and noble designe, but not finish'd. 
 
 Peter House formerly under the government of my worthy friend Dr. 
 Jo. Cosin Deane of Peterborow ;' a pretty neate College having a deli- 
 cate Chapell. Next to Sidney, a fine College. 
 
 Catharine Hall, tho' a meane structure, is yet famous for the learned 
 Bp. Andrews, once Master. Emanuel Colledge, that zealous house, 
 where to the hall they have a parler for the Fellows. The Chapell is re- 
 form'd, ab origine, built N. and S. meanely built, as is the Librarie. 
 
 Jesus College, one of the best built, but in a melancholy situation. 
 Next to Christ College, a noble erection, especialy the modern part, built 
 without the quadrangle towards the gardens, of exact architecture.' 
 
 The Schooles are very despicable, and Public Librarie but meane, tho' 
 somewhat improv'd by the wainscotting and books lately added by the 
 Bp. Bancroft's Library and MSS. They shew'd us little of antiquity, 
 onely K. James's Works, being his owne gift and kept very reverently. 
 
 The Mercat-place is very ample, and remarkable tor old Hobson the 
 
 1 Ejected from aU his preferments in 1640 or 1641. Afterwards Bishop of Durham. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 241 
 
 pleasant Carrier's beneficence of a fountaine. But the whole towne 
 is situate in a low dirty unpleasant place, the streetes ill paved, 
 the aire thicke and infected by the Fennes, nor are its churches (of 
 which St. Marie's is the best) any thing considerable in compare 
 with those of Oxford.' 
 
 From Cambridge we went to Audley End, and spent some time iv 
 seeing that goodly palace built by Howard Earl of Suffolk, once Lord 
 Treasurer. It is a mixt fabric 'twixt antiq and modern, but observable 
 for its being compleately finish'd, and without comparison is one of the 
 stateliest palaces of the kingdom. It consists of two courts, the first 
 very large, wingM with cloisters. The front hath a double entrance ; 
 the hall is faire, but somewhat too small for so august a pile. The 
 kitchen is very large, as are the cellars arch'd with stone, very neate 
 and well dispos'd ; these offices are joyn'd by a wing out of the way 
 very handsomely. The gallery is the most cheerful!, and I thinke one 
 of the best in England ; a faire dining-roome, and the rest of the 
 lodgings answerable, with a pretty chapell. The gardens are not in 
 order, tho' well inclos'd. It has also a bowling-ally, a noble well 
 wall'd, wooded, and water'd park, full of fine coUines and ponds : the 
 river glides before the palace, to which is an avenue of lime trees, but 
 all this is much diminish'd by its being plac'd in an obscure bottome ; 
 for the rest, it is a perfectly uniform structure, and shewes without like 
 a diadem, by the decorations of the cupolas and other ornaments on 
 the pavilions ; instead of railes and balusters, there is a bordure of 
 capital letters, as was lately also on Suffolk House neere Charing 
 Crosse, built by the same Lord Trea»urer. 
 
 This house stands in the parish of Saffron Walden, famous for the 
 aboundance of saffron there cultivated, and esteem'd the best of any 
 forraine country. 
 
 3 Oct. Having din'd here we pass'd thro' Bishop's Stortford, a 
 pretty water'd towne, and so by London late home to Sayes Court, 
 after a journey of 700 miles, but for the variety an agreeable refresh- 
 ment after my turmoil and building, &c. 
 
 10. To my brother at Wotton, who had ben sick. 
 
 14. I went to visit my noble friend Mr. Hyldiard, where 3 met that 
 learned gentleman my Lord Aungier, and Dr. Stokes, one of his 
 Majesty's Chaplains. 
 
 15. To Betchworth Castle to Sir Ambrose Browne, and other gentle- 
 men of my sweete and native country. 
 
 24. The good old parson Higham preach'd at Wotton Church : a 
 plaine preacher, but innocent and honest man. 
 
 23 Oct. I went to London to visit my co. Fanshawe, and this day I 
 saw one of the rarest collections of achates, onyxes, and intaglios, that 
 I had ever seene either at home or abroad, collected by a conceited old 
 
 1 The reader must remember that an Oxford man is speaking. 
 
 16 
 
242 LONDON ; CHRISTMAS ; WOODCOT ; A RARE TABLE CLOCK. 
 
 hatt-maker in Black Friers, especialy one achat vase, heretofore the 
 greate Earle of Leicester's. 
 
 28. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to visit us ; also 
 one Captain Cooke, esteem'd ye best singer after the Italian manner of 
 any in England ; he entertain'd us with his voice and theorba, 
 
 3r. My birth-day, being the 34th yeare of my age: blessing God for 
 his providence I went to London to visite my brother. 
 
 3 Dec. Advent Sunday. There being no office at the church, but 
 extemporie prayers after the Presbyterian way, for now all formes were 
 prohibited, and most of the preachers were usurpers, I seldome went to 
 Church upon solemn feasts, but either went to London, where some of 
 the orthodox sequestred Divines did privately use the Common Prayer, 
 administer sacraments, &c. or else I procur'd one to officiate in my 
 house ; wherefore, on the loth. Dr. Richard Owen, the sequester'd 
 minister of Eltham, preach'd to my family in my library, and gave us 
 the holy communion. 
 
 25. Christmas Day. No public offices in churches, but penalties on 
 observers, so as I was constrain'd to celebrate it at home. 
 
 1655. Jan. I. Having with my Family performed the publiq offices 
 of the day, and begged a blessing on the yeare I was now entering, I went 
 to keepe the rest of Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn at Woodcot. 
 
 tg. My wife was brought to bed of another son, being my third, 
 but second living. Christen'd on the 26th by the name of John. 
 
 28. A stranger preached from 3 Coloss., 2, inciting our affections to 
 the obtaining heavenly things. I understood afterwards that this man 
 had ben both Chaplaine and Lieutennent to Admiral Pen, using both 
 swords, whether ordained or not I cannot say ; into such times were 
 we fallen ! 
 
 Feb. 24. I was shew'd a table clock whose ballance was onely a 
 chrystall ball sliding on parallel wyers without being at all fixed, but 
 rolling from stage to stage till falling on a spring conceal'd from sight, 
 it was throwne up to the upmost channel againe, made with an imper- 
 ceptible declivity, ia this continual vicissitude of motion prettily enter- 
 taining the eye every halfe minute, and the next halfe giving progress 
 to the hand that shew'd the houre, and giving notice by a small bell, so 
 as in 120 halfe minutes, or periods of the bullet's falling on the ejacula- 
 torie spring, the clock part struck. This very extraordinary piece 
 (richly adom'd) had been presented by some German Prince to our 
 late King, and was in possession of the Usurper, valu'd at 200/. 
 
 2 Mar. Mr. Simson, the King's jeweler, shew'd me a most rich 
 achat cup of an escalop shape and having a figure of Cleopatra at the 
 scroll, her body, haire, mantle, and vaile of the several natural colours. 
 It was supported by a halfe M. Antony, the colours rarely natural, and 
 the work truly antique, but I conceived they were of several! pieces ; 
 liad they ben all of one stone it were invaluable. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 243 
 
 18. Went to London on purpose to heare that excellent preacher 
 Dr. Jeremy Taylor on 14 Matt. 17. shewing what were the conditions 
 of obtaining eternal life : also concerning abatemenfs for unavoidable 
 infirmities, how cast on the accompts of the Crosse. On the 31st I 
 made a visit to Dr. Jer. Taylor to conferr with him about some spiritual 
 matters, using him thenceforward as my ghostly father. I beseech God 
 Almighty to make me ever mindful of, and thankful for, his heavenly 
 assistances. 
 
 2 April. This was the first weeke that my V. Pret. [Uncle Pretyman] 
 being parted with his family from me, I began housekeeping, till now 
 sojourning with him in my owne house. 
 
 9. I went to see the greate ship newly built by the Usurper Oliver, 
 carrying 96 brasse guns, and 1000 tons burthen. In the prow was 
 Oliver on horseback, trampling 6 Nations under foote, a Scott, Irish- 
 man, Dutchman, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily 
 made out by their several habits. A Fame held a laurel over his in- 
 sulting head ; the word, God with us. 
 
 15. I went to London with my family to celebrate the feast of Easter. 
 Dr. Wild preach'd at St. Gregorie's ; the Ruling Powers conniving at 
 the use of the Liturgy &c. in this church alone. In the afternoone 
 Mr. Pierson (since Bishop of Chester) preach'd at East Cheape, but 
 was disturb'd by an alarme 01 fire, which about this time was very fre- 
 quent in the Cittie. 
 
 29 May. I sold Preston to Col. Morley. 
 
 June 17. There was a collection lor the Persecuted Churches and 
 Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient Albigenses. 
 
 3 July. I was shew'd a pretty Terrella, describ'd with all the circles, 
 and shewing all the magnetic deviations, &c. 
 
 14. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome, also Sir Edward 
 Hales, Sir Jo. Tufton with Mr. Seamour. 
 
 I Aug. I went to Dorking to see Mr. Cha. Howard's amphitheater, 
 garden, or solitarie recess, being 15 acres inviron'd by a hill. He 
 shew'd us divers rare plants, caves, and an elaboratory. 
 
 10. I went to Alburie to visit Mr. Howard, who had begun to build 
 and alter the gardens much. He shew'd me many rare pictures, par- 
 ticularly the Moore on horseback; Erasmus as big as the life, by Hol- 
 bein ; a Madona in miniature by Oliver ; but above all the Skull carv'd 
 in wood by Albert Durer, for which his father was offer'd 100/. ; also 
 Albert's head hy himselfe ; with divers rare achates, intalias, and other 
 curiosities. 
 
 21. I went to Rygate to visit Mrs. Carey at my Lady Peterboro's, in 
 an antient monastery well in repaire, but the parke much defac'd ; the 
 house is nobly furnish'd. The chimney-piece in the greate chamber, 
 carv'd in wood, was of Hen. 8. and was taken from an house of his in 
 Blechinglea At Rygate was now the Archbishop ot Armagh, the 
 
244 ARCHBISHOP USHER. OUCHTRED. THE MATHEMATICIAN. 
 
 learned James Usher, whom I wente tovisite. He receiv'd me exceed- 
 ing kindly. In discourse with him he told me how greate the losse of 
 time was to study much the Eastern languages : that excepting Hebrew 
 there was little fruite to be gather'd of exceeding labour ; that besides 
 some mathematical bookes, the Arabic itselfe had little considerable ; 
 that the best texte was the Hebrew Bible ; that the Septuagint was 
 finish'd in 70 daies, but full of errors, about which he was then writing ; 
 that St. Hierom's was to be valued next the Hebrew ; also that the 70 
 translated the Pentateuch onely, the rest was finish'd by others ; that 
 the Italians at present understood but little Greeke, and Kircher was a 
 mountebank ; that Mr. Selden's best book was his ' Titles of Honour ;' 
 that the Church would be destroyed by sectaries, who would in all 
 likelihood bring in Poperie. In conclusion he recommended to me 
 the study of Philologie above all human studies ; and so with his 
 blessing I tooke my leave of this excellent person, and returned to 
 Wotton. 
 
 27. I went to Box-hill to see those rare natural bowers, cabinets, and 
 shady walkes in the box copses : hence we walk'd to Mickleham, and 
 saw Sir F. Stidolph's seate envircn'd with elme-trees and walnuts 
 innumerable, and of which last he told us they receiv'd a considerable 
 revenue. Here are such goodly walkes and hills shaded with yew and 
 box as render the place extreamely agreeable, it seeming from these 
 ever-greens to be summer all the winter. 
 
 28. Came that renown'd mathematician Mr. Oughtred to see me, I 
 sending my coach to bring him to Wotton, being now very aged. 
 Amongst other discourse he told me he thought water to be the 
 philosopher's first matter, and that he was well perswaded of the possi- 
 bility of their elixir ; he believ'd the sunn to be a material fire, the 
 moone a continent, as appears by the late Selenographers ; he had strong 
 apprehensions of some extraordinary event to happen the following 
 yeare, from the calculation of coincidence with the diluvian period ; 
 and added that it might possibly be to convert the Jewes by our Saviour's 
 visible appearance, or to judge the world ; and therefore his word was 
 Parate in occursumj he said original sin was not met with in the 
 Greeke Fathers, yet he believ'd the thing ; this was from some dis- 
 course on Dr. Taylor's late booke which I had lent him. 
 
 16. Preach'd at St. Gregories one Darnel on 4 Psalm 4. concerning 
 the benefit of selfe examination ; more learning in so short a time as 
 an hour I have seldom heard. 
 
 17 Sept. Receiv'd 2600/. of Mr. Hurt for the manor of Warley 
 Magna in Essex, purchased by me some time since. The taxes were 
 so intoUerable that they eate up the rents &c. surcharged as that county 
 had been above all others during our unnatural war. 
 
 19. Came to see me Sir Edw. Hales, Mr. Ashmole, Mr. Harlakenton, 
 and Mr. Thornhill ; and the next day I visited Sir Hen. Newton at 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 245 
 
 Charleton, where I met the Earl of Winchelsea and Lady Beauchamp, 
 daughter to the Lord CapeL 
 
 On Sunday aftemoone I frequently stay'd at home to catechise and 
 instruct my familie, those exercises universally ceasing in the parish 
 churches, so as people had no principles, and grew very ignorant of 
 €ven the common points of Christianity ; all devotion being now plac'd 
 in hearing sermons and discourses of speculative and notional things. 
 
 26. I went to see Col. Blount's subterranean warren, and drank of 
 the wine of his vineyard, which was good for little. 
 
 31. Sir Nich. Crisp came to treate with me about his vast designe 
 of a Mole to be made for ships in part of my grounds at Sayes Court. 
 
 3 Nov. I had accidentally discourse with a Persian and a Greeke 
 concerning the sad devastation of Poland by the late incursion of 
 the Swedes. 
 
 27. To London about Sir Nicholas Crisps designs. 
 
 I went to see York House and gardens belonging to the former 
 greate Buckingham, but now much ruin'd thro' neglect.' 
 
 Thence to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib,' a public spirited 
 and ingenious person, who had propagated many usefull things and 
 arts. He told me of the Castles which they set for ornament on their 
 stoves in Germany (he himselfe being a Lithuanian as I remember), 
 which are furnish'd with small ordinance of silver on the battlements, 
 out of which they discharge excellent perfumes about the roomes 
 charging them with a little powder to set them on fire and disperse the 
 smoke ; and in truth no more than neede, for their stoves are sufficiently 
 nasty. He told me of an inke that would give a dozen copies, moist 
 sheets of paper being press'd on it, and remaine perfect ; and a receipt 
 how to take off any print without the least injury to the originall. This 
 gentleman was master of innumerable curiosities, and very communi- 
 cative. I returned home that evening by water, and was afflicted for 
 it with a cold that had almost kill'd me. 
 
 27. This day came forth the Protectors Edict or Proclamation, pro- 
 hibiting all ministers of the Church of England from preaching or 
 teaching any scholes, in which he imitated the Apostate Julian ; with 
 the decimation of all the royal parties revenues throughout England. 
 
 14 Dec. I visited Mr. Hobbs the famous philosopher of Malmesbury 
 with whom I had ben long acquainted in France. 
 
 Now were the Jews admitted. 
 
 25. There was no more notice taken of Christmas day in churches. 
 
 I went to London where Dr. Wild preach'd the funeral sermon of 
 
 ' The Duke's names and titles are still preserved in the buildings erected or the site ; viz, 
 George Street, Villiers Street, Duke Street, Off Alley, Buckingham Street 
 
 2 Samuel Hartlib. Milton's Tractate of Education is addressed to him. Mr. Todd in his 
 I.ife of that Poet prefixed to the last Edition of his Poetical Works, observes that ' a Life o£ 
 Hartlib is a desideratum in English Biography : ' there are ample materials for it in the publi- 
 cations of the time. 
 
24t) EDICT OF CROMWELL. DR. WILKINS. VISIT TO WHITEHALL. 
 
 Preaching, this being the last day, after which Cromwell's proclama- 
 tion was to take place, that none of the Church of England should 
 dare either to preach or administer Sacraments, teach schoole, &c. on 
 paine of imprisonment or exile. So this was the mournfullest day that in 
 my life I had scene, or the Church of England herselfe since the Re- 
 formation ; to the greate rejoicing of both Papist and Presbyter'. So 
 pathetic was his discourse that it drew many teares from the auditory. 
 Myself, wife, and some of our family receiv'd the Communion ; God 
 make me thankfuU, who hath hitherto provided for us the food of 
 our soules as well as bodies ! The Lord Jesus pity our distress'd Church, 
 and bring back the captivity of Sion ! 
 
 1656. 5 Jan. Came to visit me my Lord Lisle, sonn to the Earle 
 of Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two of the Usurper's Council ; 
 Mr. John Hervey, and John Denham the poet. 
 
 18. Went to Elthafti on foote, being a greate frost, but a mist fall- 
 ing as I returned, gave me such a rheume as kept me within doores 
 neere a whole moneth after. 
 
 5 Feb. Was shew'd me a pretty perspective and well represented in 
 a triangular box, the greate Church of Harlem in Holland, to be scene 
 thro' a small hole at one of the corners and contriv'd into an handsome 
 cabinet. It was so rarely don, that all the artists and painters in towne 
 flock'd to see and admire it. 
 
 la I heard Dr. Wilkins' preach before the Lord Mayor in St. 
 Pauls, shewing how obedience was preferable to sacrifice. He was a 
 most obliging person, who had married the Protector's sister, and tooke 
 greate pains to preserve the Universities from the ignorant sacrilegious 
 Commanders and Souldiers, who would faine have demolish'd all places 
 and persons that pretended to learning. 
 
 II. I ventured to go to White-hall, where of many yeares I had not 
 ben, and found it very glorious and well fumish'd as far as I could 
 safely go, and was glad to find they had not much defac'd that rare 
 piece of Hen. VII. &c. don on the walles of the King's privy chamber. 
 
 14. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley of Berkeley 
 Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with my Lord Bruce, my 
 fellow-traveller in Italy. 
 
 19. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see Barlow, the famous painter oi 
 fowls, beasts and birds. 
 
 4 Mar. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger L'Estrange to hear 
 the incomparable Lubicer on the violin. His variety on a few notes 
 and plaine ground with that wonderful dexterity was admirable. Tho* 
 a young man, yet so perfect and skilfull, that there was nothing, how 
 
 I The text was 2 Cor. 13. 9. That, however persecution dealt with the Ministers of God's 
 word, they were still to pray for the flocke, and wish their perfection, as it viras the flocke to 
 pray for and assist their pastors, by the example of St. Paul. J. E. 
 
 'Afterwards Bishop of Chester. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOIiN EVELYN. 247 
 
 ever cross and perplext, brought to him by our Artists, which he did 
 not play off at sight with ravishing sweetnesse and improvements, to 
 the astonishment of our best Masters. In sum he plaid on that single 
 instrument a full concert, so as the rest flung down their instruments, 
 acknowledging the victory. As to my own particular, I stand to this 
 hour amaz'd that God should give so greate perfection to so young a 
 person. There were at that time as excellent in their profession as any 
 were thought to be in Europ, Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell and others, till 
 this prodigie appear'd. I can no longer question the effects we reade 
 of in David's harp to charme evil spirits, or what is said some particular 
 notes produc'd in the passions of Alexander, and on that King of 
 Denmark. 
 
 12 April. Mr. Berkeley, and Mr. Robert Boyle (that excellent per- 
 son and greate virtuoso), Dr. Taylor and Dr. Wilkins, din'd with me 
 at Sayes Court, when I presented Dr. Wilkins with my rare buming- 
 glasse. In the afternoone we all went to Colonel Blount's to see his 
 new-invented plows. — 
 
 22. Came to see Mr. Henshaw and Sir William Paston's sonn, 
 since Earle of Yarmouth. Afterwards I went-to see his Majesty's house 
 at Eltham, both Palace and Chapell in miserable ruincs, the noble 
 woods and park destroy'd by Rich the Rebell. 
 
 6 May. I brought Monsieur le Franc, a young French Sorbonnist, a 
 proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor ; they fell to dispute on ori- 
 ginal sinn, in Latine, upon a booke newly publish'd by the Doctor, 
 who was much satisfied with the young man. Thence I went to see 
 Mr. Dugdale, our learned Antiquarie and Herald. Returning, I was 
 show'd the three vast volumes of Father Kircher's ' Obeliscus Pam- 
 phiUus ' and ' .(Egyptiacus ;' in the second volume I found the Hiero- 
 glyphic I first communicated and sent to him at Rome by the hands of 
 Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions. I design'd it from the stone itselfe 
 brought me to Venice from Cairo by Cap. PowelL 
 
 7. I visited Dr. Taylor and prevail'd on him to propose Mons. le 
 Franc to the Bishop that he might have orders, I having some time 
 before brought him to a full consent to the Church of England her 
 doctrine and discipline, in which he had till of late made some diffi- 
 culty ; so he was this day ordain'd both Deacon and Priest, by the 
 Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his Lordship, who was very poore 
 and in greate want, to that necessity were our Clergy reduc'd ! In 
 the afternoone I met Alderman Robinson, to treat with Mr. Papillion 
 about the marriage of my cousin Geo. Tuke with Mrs. Fontaine. 
 
 8. I went to visit Dr. Wilkins at White-hall, when I first met with 
 Sir P. Neale, famous for his optic glasses. Greaiorix the mathematical 
 instrument maker shew'd me his excellent invention to quench fire. 
 
 12. Was publish'd my Essay on Lucretius,' with innumerable 
 
 1 A TriUuIatioQ into English verse of the 6Tst Book only, the Frontispiece to which was 
 
248 THE HOLLAND AMBASSADOR. DUKE OF ARGYLE. COLCHESTER. 
 
 errata by the negligence of Mr. Triplet who undertook the correction ot 
 the press in my absence. Little of the Epicurean philosophy was then 
 known amongst us. 
 
 28. I din'd with Nieuport the Holland Ambassador, who receiv'd 
 me with extraordinary courtesie. I found him a judicious, crafty and 
 wise man. He gave me excellent cautions as to the danger of the 
 times, and the circumstances our nation was in. I remember the ob- 
 servation he made upon the ill success of our former Parliaments, and 
 their private animosities, and little care of the public. 
 
 Came to visit me the old Marques of Argyle (since executed), Lord 
 Lothian, and some other Scotch noblemen, all strangers to me. Note, 
 the Marques tooke the turtle-doves in the aviary for owles. 
 
 The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer) and Mr. Spencer, bro- 
 ther to the Earle of Sunderland, came to see my garden. 
 
 7 July. I began my journey to see some parts of the North East of 
 England, but the weather was so excessive hot and dusty^ that I 
 shortned my progresse. 
 
 8. To Colchester, a faire towne, but now wretchedly demolished 
 by the late siege, especialy the suburbs, which were all burnt, but 
 were then repairing. The towne is built on a rising ground, having 
 faire meadows on one side, and a river with a strong ancient castle, 
 said to have ben built by K. Coilus, father of Helena mother of Con- 
 stantine the Great, of whom I find no memory save at the pinnacle of 
 one of their wool-staple houses, where is a statue of Coilus in wood, 
 wretchedly carved. The walles are exceeding strong, deeply trench'd 
 and fiU'd with earth. It has 6 gates and some watch-towres, and some 
 handsome churches. But what was shewed us as a kind of miracle, at 
 the outside of the Castle, the wall where Sir Cha. Lucas and Sir Geo. 
 Lisle, those valiant and noble persons who so bravely behav'd them- 
 selves in the last siege, were barbarously shot, murder'd by Ireton in 
 cold blood after surrendering on articles ; having ben disappointed of 
 relief from the Scotch army, which had ben defeated with the King at 
 Worcester. The place was bare of grasse for a large space, all the rest 
 of it abounding with herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged and fac- 
 tious towne, now swarming with Sectaries. Their trading is in cloth 
 with the Dutch, and bales and saies with Spaine ; it is the only place 
 in England where these stuffs are made unsophisticated. It is also 
 famous for oysters and eringo-root, growing here about and candied 
 for sale. 
 
 designed by Mr. Evelyn's Lady. Prefixed to the copy in the Library at Wotton is this note 
 in his own hand-writing : ' Never was boolc so abominably misused by printer : never copy 
 so negligently surveled by one who undertooke to looke over the proofe-sheetes with all 
 exactnesse and care, namely Dr. Triplet, well knowne for his abilitie, and who pretended to 
 oblige me in my absence, and so readily offer'd himselfe. This good yet I received by it, 
 that publishing it vainely, its ill successe at the printer's discourag'd me with troubhng the 
 nforlde with the rest.' 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 249 
 
 Went to Dedham, a pretty country towne, having a very fatre church 
 finely situated, the valley well watred. Here I met with Dr. Stokes, 
 a young gentleman but an excellent mathematician. This is a clothing 
 towne, as most are in Essex, but lies in the unwholesome hundreds. 
 
 Hence to Ipswich, doubtlesse one of the sweetest, most pleasant, 
 well built Townes in England. It has twelve faire churches,many noble 
 houses, especialy the Lord Devereux's ; a brave kay and commodious 
 harbour, being about 7 miles from the maine ; an ample mercat-place. 
 Here was born the Great Cardinal Wolsey, who began a palace here, 
 which was not finish'd. 
 
 I had the curiosity to visite some Quakers here in prison ; a new 
 phanatic sect, of dangerous principles, who shew no respect to any 
 man, magistrate or other, and seeme a melancholy proud sort of 
 people, and exceedingly ignorant. One of these was said to have 
 fasted 20 dales, but another endeavouring to do the like, perish'd on 
 the loth, when he would have eaten but could not. 
 
 10. I return'd homeward, passing againe thro' Colchester ; and by 
 the way neere the antient towne of Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built 
 in a parke by Henry 7. and 8. and given by Queen Elizabeth to the 
 Earle of Sussex, who sold it to the iate greate Duke of Buckingham, 
 and since seiz'd on by O. Cromwell (pretended Protector). It is a 
 faire old house built with brick, low, being only of 2 stories, as the 
 manner then was ; the Gate-house better ; the Court large and pretty ; 
 the staire-case of extraordinarj' widnesse, with a piece representing 
 Sir F. Drake's action in the year 1580, an excellent sea-piece; the 
 galleries are trifling ; the hall is noble ; the garden a faire plot, and 
 the whole seate well accommodated with water ; but above all I 
 admir'd the faire avenue planted with stately lime-trees in 4 rowes, for 
 neere a mile in length. It has three descents, which is the only fault, 
 and may be reform'd. There is another faire walk of the same at the 
 mall and wildernesse, with a tennis-court, and pleasant terrace towards 
 the park, which was well stor'dwith deere and ponds. 
 
 II. Came home by Greenwich Ferry, where I saw Sir John Win- 
 ter's new project of charring sea-coale, to burne out the sulphure and 
 render it sweete. He did it by burning the coales in such earthen 
 pots as the glasse-men mealt their mettall, so firing them without 
 consuming them, using a barr of yron in each crucible or pot, which 
 barr has a hook at one end, that so the coales being mealted in a fur- 
 nace with other crude sea-coales under them, may be drawn out of the 
 potts sticking to the yron, whence they are beaten off in greate halfe- 
 exhausted cinders, which being rekindl'd make a cleare pleasant cham- 
 ber fire, deptiVd of their sulphur and arsenic malignity. What successe 
 it may have, time will discover.' 
 
 1 Some years ago Lord Dundonald revived the project, but with the projected improvement of 
 extracting and saving the Tar. Unfortunately his Lordship did not profit by it. The Gas-Liglit 
 Company sell the coal thus charred, by the name of Coke, for fuel for many purposes (i8i8). 
 
250 SIR H. VANE IMPRISONED. DR. WILD'S LODGINGS, LONDON. 
 
 3 Aug. I went to London to receive the B. Sacrament, the first 
 time the Church of England was reduced to a chamber and conven- 
 ticle, so sharp was the persecution. The Parish Churches were fill'd 
 with Sectaries of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics 
 usurping the pulpets every where. Dr. Wild preach'd in a private 
 house in Fleete Streete, where we had a greate meeting of zealous 
 Christians, who were generaly much more devout and religious than in 
 our greatest prosperity. In the afternoone I went to the French Church 
 in the Savoy, where I heard Monsieur d'Espagne catechise, and so 
 return'd to my house. 
 — 20. Was a confus'd election of Parliament cal'd by the Usurper. 
 
 7 Sept. I went to take leave of my excellent neighbour and friend 
 Sir H. Newton & Lady, now going to dwell at Warwick ; and Mr. 
 Needham, my dear and learned friend, came to visite me. 
 
 14. Now was old Sir Hen. Vane sent to Carisbrook Castle in Wight 
 for a foolish booke he publish'd ; the pretended Protector fortifying 
 himselfe exceedingly, and sending many to prison. 
 
 2 Oct. Came to visite me my co. Stephens, and Mr. Pierce (since 
 Head of Magdalen Coll. Oxford) a learned minister of Erington in 
 -Northamptonshire, and Captain Cooke, both excellent musicians. 
 
 2 Nov. There was now nothing practical preached or that pressed 
 reformation of life, but high and speculative points and straines that 
 few understood, which left people very ignorant and of no steady prin- 
 ciples, the source ofall our sects and divisions, for there was much envy 
 and uncharity in the world ; God of his mercy amend it ! Now 
 indeed that I went at all to church whilst these usurpers possess'd the 
 pulpets, was that I might not be suspected for a Papist, and that tho' 
 the Minister was Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I understood 
 duly ordain'd, and preach'd sound doctrine after their way, and besides 
 was an humble, harmlesse and peaceable man. 
 ~ 25 Dec. I went to London to receive the B. Communion this holy 
 festival at Dr. Wild's lodgings, where I rejoiced to find so full an 
 assembly of devout and sober Christians. 
 
 26. I invited some of my neighbours and tenants according to cos- 
 tome, and to preserve hospitality and charity. 
 
 28. A stranger preached on 18 Luke, 7, 8. on which he made a con- 
 fused discourse, with a greate deale of Greeke and ostentation ol 
 learning to but little purpose. 
 
 30. Dined with me Sir William Paston's sonn, Mr. Henshaw and 
 Mr. Clayton. 
 
 31. I begged God's blessings & mercys for his goodnesse to me 
 the past yeere, and set my domestic affaires in order. 
 
 1657. January I. Having praied with my family and celebrated 
 the Anniversarie, I spent some time in imploring God's blessing the 
 yeare I was entred into. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 251 
 
 7 Jan. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since Secretary to the Duke, slain 
 in the Dutch war) eldest son to the Bishop of Ely, now a prisoner in 
 the Tower ; a most worthy and learned gentleman. 
 
 10. Came Dr. Joylife, that famous physician and anatomist, first 
 detector of the lymphatic veins : also the old Marques of Argyle and 
 another Scotch Earle. 
 
 5 Feb. Din'd at the Holland Ambassador's ; he told me the East 
 India Company of Holland had constantly a stock ot ^400,000 in 
 India, and 48 men of war there : he spoke of their exact and just 
 keeping their books & correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock 
 could possibly be lost or defeated ; that it was a vulgar error that the 
 Hollanders furnished their enemies with powder and ammunition lor 
 their money, tho' engaged in a cruell warr, but that they us'd to mer- 
 chandize indifferently, and were permitted to sell to the triends of their 
 enemies. He laugh'd at our Committee of Trade, as compos'd of men 
 wholy ignorant of it, and how they were the ruine of commerce, by 
 gratifying some for private ends. 
 
 10 Feb. I went to visite the Governor of Havanna, a brave, sober, 
 valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Capt. Young of Deptiord, when 
 after 20 yeares being in the Indies, and amassing greate wealth, his 
 lady and whole family except two sonns were burnt, destroyed and 
 taken within sight of Spaine, his eldest sonn, daughter and wife 
 perishing with immense treasure.' One sonn, of about 17 years 
 old, with his brother of one yeare old, were the onely ones sav'd. 
 The young gentleman about 17, was a well-complexion'd youth, not 
 olive-colour'd ; he spake Latine handsomely, was extreamely well- 
 bred, and bom in the Caraccas, 1000 miles South of the Equinoxial, 
 neere the mountaines of Potosi j he had never ben in Europe before. 
 The Governor was an ancient gentleman of greate courage, of the 
 order of St. Jago, sore wounded in his arme, and his ribs broken ; he 
 lost for his owne share ;/^ioo,ooo sterhng, which he seem'd to beare 
 with exceeding indifference, and nothing dejected. After some dis- 
 course I went with them to Arundel House, where they din'd. They 
 were now going back into Spaine, having obtain'd their liberty from 
 Cromwell. An example of human vicissitude ! 
 
 14. To London, where I iound Mrs. Carey ; next day came Mr. 
 Mordaunt (since Viscount Mordaunt, younger sonn to the Countesse 01 
 Peterborow) to see his Mistress, bringing with him two of my Lord 01 
 Dover's daughters : so after dinner they all departed. 
 
 5 Mar. Dr. Rand, a learned physician, dedicated to me his Version 
 of Gassendus's Vita Peiriskii. 
 
 25. Dr. Taylor shew'd me his MSS. of Cases of Conscience, or 
 Bucto dubitantium, now fitted for the presse. 
 
 1 This disastrous event is particularly noticed in Waller's Poem on aWarwith Spain. Fight 
 at Sea by Gcr.end Montague 1656. 
 
2J2 VISIT BEDLAM, AND CHRIST-CHURCH AND HOSPITAL. 
 
 The Protector, Oliver, now affecting Kingship, is petition'd to tal^e 
 the Title on him by all his new-made sycophant Lords, &c. but dares 
 not for feare of the Phanatics, not thoroughly purg'd out of his Rebell 
 Army. 
 
 21 April. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer of Hanmer in Wales, to see 
 me. I then waited on my Lord Hatton, with whom I dined ; at my 
 retume I stept into Bedlame, where I saw several poore miserable 
 creatures in chaines ; one of them was mad with making verses. I 
 also visited the Charter-house, formerly belonging to Ihe Carthusians, 
 now an old neate fresh solitarie CoUedge for decaied gentlemen. It 
 has a grove, bowling-greene, garden, chapell, and a halle where they 
 €ate in common. I likewise saw Christ-church and Hospital, a very 
 goodly Gotic building ; the hall, school, and lodgings in greate order 
 for bringing up many hundreds of poore children of both sexes ; it is 
 an exemplary charity. There is a large picture at one end of the hall, 
 representing the Governors, Founders, and the Institution. 
 
 25. I had a dangerous fall out of the coach in Covent Garden, going 
 to my brother's, but without harme : the Lord be praised. 
 
 I May. Divers souldiers were quarter'd at my house, but I thank 
 God went away the next day towards Flanders. 
 
 5. I went with my cousin George Tuke to see Baynards in Surrey, 
 an house of my brother Richard's, which he would have hir'd. This is 
 a very faire noble residence, built in a park, and having one of the 
 goodliest avenues of oakes up to it that ever I saw ; there is a pond of 
 60 acres neere it ; the windows of the cheife roomes are of very fine 
 painted glasse. The situation is excessively dirty and melancholy.' 
 
 15. Laurence, President of Oliver's Council, and some other of his 
 Court Lords, came in the afternoon to see my garden and plantations. 
 7 June. My fourth sonn was born, christen'd George (after my 
 Grandfather) : Dr. Jer. Taylor officiating in the drawing-room. 
 
 18. At Greenwich I saw a sort of Catt' brought from the East 
 Indies, shap'd and snouted much like the Egyptian racoon, in the body 
 like a monkey, and so footed ; the eares and taile like a catt, onely the 
 taile much longer, and the skin variously ringed with black and white ; 
 with the taile it wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into 
 trees, and with it would wrap its whole body round. Its haire was 
 woolly like a lamb ; it was exceedingly nimble, gentle, and purr'd as 
 dos the catt. 
 
 July 16. On Dr. Jer. Taylor's recommendation I went to Eltham, 
 to help one Moody, a young man, to that living, by my interest with 
 the Patron. 
 
 6 Aug. I went to see Col. Blount, who shewed me the application 
 
 ^ It is in the lower part of the parish of Ewhurst in Surrey, adjoining to Rudgwick in 
 S',:ssex, in a deep clay soil. It was formerly the seat of Sir Edward Bray. It belonged to 
 Ithe late Earl of Onslow, who carried the painted glass to his seat at ClandoQ. 
 
 i This was probably the aninuU called a Mocock, well known at present. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 353 
 
 of the Way-wiser to a coach, exactly measuring the miles, and shewing 
 them by an index as we went on. It had 3 circles, one pointing to the 
 number of rods, another to the miles, by 10 to 1000, with all the sub- 
 divisions of quarters ; very pretty and useful. 
 
 10. Our Vicar, from John 18. v. 36, declaim'd against the folly of a 
 sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots, call'd the Fifth-Monarchy- 
 Men, pretending to set up the kingdome of Christ with the sword. To 
 this passe was this age ariv'd when we had no King in Israel. 
 
 21. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and the yeare was very 
 sickly in the country. 
 
 I Sept. I visited Sir Edmund Bowyer at his melancholy seate at 
 Camerwell. He has a very pretty grove of oakes, and hedges of yew 
 in his garden, and a handsom row of tall elmes before his court. 
 
 15. Going to London with some company, we stept in to see a 
 famous Rope-dauncer call'd The Turk. I saw even to astonishment 
 the agilitie with which he perform'd ; he walk'd barefooted taking hold 
 by his toes only of a rope almost perpendicular, and without so much as 
 touching it with his hands; he daunc'd blindfold on the high rope and 
 with a boy of 12 yeares old tied to one of his feete about 20 foote be- 
 neath him, dangling as he daunc'd, yet he mov'd as nimbly as if it had 
 ben but a feather. Lastly he stood on his head on the tope of a very 
 high mast, daunc'd on a small rope that was very slack, and finally flew 
 downe the perpendicular, on his breast, his head foremost, his legs and 
 arms extended, with divers other activities. — I saw the hairy woman,' 
 20 years old, whom I had before seen when a child. She was borne at 
 Augsburg in Germany. Her very eye-browes were comb'd upwards, 
 and all her forehead as thick and even as growes on any woman's head, 
 neatly dress'd ; a very long lock of haire out of each eare ; she had 
 also a most prolix beard, and mustachios, with long locks growing on 
 the middle of her nose, like an Iceland dog exactly, the colour of a 
 bright browne, fine as well-dress'd flax. She was now married, and 
 told me she had one child that was not hairy, nor were any of her 
 parents or relations. She was very well shap'd, and plaied well on the 
 harpsichord, &c. 
 
 17. I went to see Sir Robert Needham at Lambeth, a relation of 
 mine ; and thence to John Tradescant's Musseum, in which the cheifest 
 rarities were, in my opinion, the ancient Roman, Indian and other 
 nations armour, shields, and weapons ; some habits of curiously-colour'd 
 and wrought feathers, one from the phoenix wing as tradition goes. 
 Other innumerable things there were, printed in his catalogue by Mr 
 Ashmole, to whom after the death of the widow they are bequeath'd, 
 and by him design'd as a gift to Oxford.* 
 
 ^ Barbara Vanbeck. There are two portraits of her, one an engraving, the other in mezzo- 
 tinto, described by Mr. Granger in his Biography. There is also another representation of 
 her in some German Book of Natural History. 
 
 3 Where they now are in the Ashmolean Museum. See tinder 1678, July. 
 
254 SUBSCRIBE TO EAST INDIA COMPANY. ARRESTBD AT CHURCH. 
 
 22. To towne to visit the Holland Ambassador, with whom I had 
 
 now contracted much friendly correspondence, useful to the intelligence 
 I constantly gave his Majesty abroad. 
 
 19 Sept. I went to see divers gardens about London: returning I 
 saw at Dr. Joyliffe's 2 Virginian rattle-snakes alive, exceeding a yard 
 in length, small heads, slender tailes, but in the middle nearly the size 
 of my leg ; when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tailes, as 
 loud as a child's rattle: this, by the collision of certaine grissly skinns 
 curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent as parchment, by which 
 they give warning: a providential caution for other creatures to avoid 
 them. The Doctor tried their biting on ratts and mice, which they im- 
 mediately killed: but their vigour must needes be much exhausted here, 
 in another climate, and kept only in a barrell of bran. 
 
 26 Nov. I went to London to a Court of the East India Company 
 upon its new union, in Merchant Taylors' Hall, where was much diss- 
 order by reason of the Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers 
 oblig'd onely by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might 
 pursue their private trade ; but it was carried against them. Wednes- 
 day was fix'd on for a General Court for election of officers, after a 
 sermon and prayers for good successe. The stock resolv'd on was 
 800,000/. 
 
 27. I tooke the oath at the E. India House, subscribing 500/. 
 
 2. Dec. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) preach'd before 
 the Company at St. Andrew Undershaft, on 13 Nehemiah, 31, shewing 
 by the example of Nehemiah all the perfections of a trusty person in 
 publique affaires, with many good precepts apposite to the occasion, 
 ending with a prayer for God's blessing on the Company and the un- 
 dertaking. 
 
 3. Mr. Gunning preached on 3 John, 3. against the Anabaptists, 
 shewing the effect and necessity of the Sacrament of Baptisme. This 
 sect was now wonderfully spread. 
 
 25. I went to London with my wife, to celebrate Christmas-day, 
 Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter Chapell, on 7 Michah 2. Sermon 
 ended, as he was giving us the Holy Sacrament, the chapell was sur- 
 rounded with souldiers, and all the communicants and assembly sur- 
 priz'd and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others carried 
 away. It fell to my share to be confin'd to a roome in the house, where 
 yet I was permitted to dine with the master of it, the Countesse ot 
 Dorset, Lady Hatton, and some others of quality who invited me. In 
 the aftemoone came Col. Whaly, Goffe and others, from White-hall, to 
 examine us one by one ; some they committed to the Marshall, some 
 to prison. When I came before them they tooke my name and abode, 
 examin'd me why, contrarie to an ordinance made that none should any 
 longer observe the superstitious time of the Nativity (so esteem'd by 
 them), I durst offend, and particularly be at Common Prayers, which 
 
THE DIARY OP JOHN EVELYN. 255 
 
 they told me was but the masse in English, and particularly pray for 
 Charles Steuart, for which we had no Scripture. I told them we did 
 not pray for Cha. Stewart, but for all Christian Kings, Princes, and 
 Governors. They replied, in so doing we praid for the K. of Spaine 
 too, who was their enemie and a papist, with other frivolous and in- 
 snaring questions and much threatning ; and finding no colour to de- 
 taine me, they dismiss'd me with much pitty of my ignorance. These 
 were men of high ilight and above ordinances, and spake spiteful things 
 of our Lord's Nativity. As we went up to receive the Sacrament the 
 miscreants held their muskets against us as if they would have shot 
 us at the altar, but yet suffering us to finish the office of Communion, 
 as perhaps not having instructions what to do in case they found us in 
 that action. So I got home late the next day, blessed be God. 
 
 1658. 27 Jan. After six fits of a quartan ague with which it pleased 
 God to visite him, died my deare son Richard, to our inexpressible griefe 
 and affliction, 5 yeares and 3 days old onely, but at that tender age a 
 prodigy for witt and understanding ; for beauty of body a very angel ; 
 for endowment of mind of incredible and rare hopes. To give onely a 
 little taste of some of them, and thereby glory to God, who out of the 
 mouths of babes and infants does sometimes perfect his praises : at 2 
 yeares and halfe old he could perfectly reade any of the English, Latine, 
 French, or Gottic letters, pronouncing the three first languages exactly. 
 He had before the 5th yeare, or in that yeare, not onely skill to reade 
 most written hands, but to decline all the nouns, conjugate the verbs 
 regular, and most of the irregular ; learn'd out Puerilis, got by heart 
 almost the entire vocabularie of Latine and French primitives and 
 words, could make congruous syntax, turne English into Latine, and 
 vice versa, construe and prove what he read, and did the government 
 and use of relatives, verbs, substantives, elipses, and many figures and 
 tropes, and made a considerable progress in Comenius's Janua ; began 
 himselfe to write legibly, and had a stronge passion for Greeke. The 
 number of verses he could recite was prodigious, and what he remem- 
 ber'd of the parts of playes ; which he would also act ; and when seeing 
 a Plautus in one's hand, he ask'd what booke it was, and being told it 
 was comedy, and too difficult for him, he wept for sorrow. Strange was 
 his apt and ingenious application of fables and morals, for he had read 
 vEsop ; he had a wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by 
 heart divers propositions of Euclid that were read to him in play, and 
 he would make lines and demonstrate them. As to his piety, astonish- 
 ing were his applications of Scripture upon occasion, and his sense of 
 God ; he had learn'd all his Catechisme early, and understood the his- 
 torical part of the Bible and New Testament to a wonder, how Christ 
 came to redeeme mankind, and how, comprehending these necessarys 
 himselfe, his godfathers were discharg'd of their promise. These and 
 the like illuminations far exceeded his age and experience, considering 
 
256 DEATH-BED EXPERIENCES OF MY YOUNG SON RICHAKD. 
 
 the prettinesse of his addresse and behaviour, cannot but leave impres- 
 sions in me at the memory of him. When one told him how many 
 dayes a Quaker had fasted, he replied that was no wonder, for Christ 
 had said man should not live by bread alone, but by the Word of 
 God. He would of himselfe select the most pathetic psalms, and chap- 
 ters out of Job, to reade to his mayde during his sicknesse, telling her 
 when she pitied him that all God's children must suffer affliction. He 
 declaim'd against the vanities of the world before he had scene any. 
 Often he would desire those who came to see him to pray by him, and 
 a yeare before he fell sick, to kneel and pray with him alone in some 
 corner. How thankfully would he receive admonition, how soon be 
 reconciled ! how indifferent, yet continualy chereful ! He would give 
 grave advice to his brother John, beare with his impertinencies, and say 
 he was but a child. If he had heard of or saw any new thing, he was 
 imquiet till he was told how it was made ; he brought to us all such 
 difficulties as he found in books, to be expounded. He had learn'd by 
 heart divers sentences in Latin and Greeke, which on occasion ht 
 would produce even to wonder. He was all life, all prettinesse, far 
 from morose, sullen, or childish in any thing he said or did. The last 
 time he had ben at church (which was at Greenwich), I ask'd him, 
 according to costome, what he remembered of the sermon ; two good 
 things, father, said he, bonum gratia and bonum gloria, with a just 
 account of what the preacher said. The day before he died he cal'd to 
 me, and in a more serious manner than usual told me that for all I 
 loved him so dearly I should give my house, land, and all my fine things, 
 to his brother Jack, he should have none of them ; the next morning, 
 when he found himself ill, and that I persuaded him to keepe his hands 
 in bed, he demanded whether he might pray to God with his hands un- 
 joyn'd ; and a little after, whilst in greate agonie, whether he should not 
 ■offend God by using his holy name so often calling for ease. What shall 
 I say of his frequent pathetical ejaculations utter'd of himselfe ; Sweete 
 Jesus save me, deliver me, pardon my sinns, let thine angels receive 
 me ! So early knowledge, so much piety and perfection ! But thus 
 God having dress'd up a Saint fit for himselfe, would not longer permit 
 him with us, unworthy of the future fruites of this incomparable hope- 
 full blossome. Such a child I never saw: for such a child I blesse God 
 in whose bosome he is ! May I and mine become as this little child, 
 who now follows the child Jesus that Lamb of God in a white robe 
 whithersoever he goes ; Even so. Lord Jesus,_/fa/ voluntas tua ! Thou 
 gavest him to us. Thou hast taken him from us, blessed be the name of 
 the Lord ! That I had any thing acceptable to Thee was from thy 
 grace alone, since from me he had nothing but sin, but that Thou hast 
 pardon'd ! blessed be my God for ever, amen ! 
 
 In my opinion he was suffocated by the women and maids that tended 
 him, and cover'd him too hot with blankets as he lay in a cradle, near 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 257 
 
 an excessive hot fire in a close roome. I suffered him to be open'd, 
 when they found that he was what is vulgarly call'd liver-grown& 
 I caused his body to be coffin'd in lead and reposited on the 30th at 
 8 o'clock that night in the church of Deptford accompanied with divers 
 of my relations and neighbours, among whom I distributed rings with 
 this motto, Dominus abstulitj intending, God willing, to have him 
 transported with my owne body to be interr'd in our dormitory in 
 Wotton church, in my dear native county Surrey, and to lay my bones 
 and mingle my dust with my fathers, if God be gracious to me and 
 make me as fit for Him as this blessed child was. The Lord Jesus 
 sanctify this and all other my afflictions. Amen ! ' 
 
 Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even mourning to 
 the grave. 
 
 1 5 Feb. The afflicting hand of God being still upon us, it pleased 
 Him also to take away from us this morning my youngest sonn, George, 
 now 7 weekes languishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending in a 
 dropsie. God's holy will be done ! He was buried in Deptford church 
 the 17th following. 
 
 25. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor & my Brothers with other friends to 
 visite and condole with us. 
 
 March 7. To London to hear Dr. Taylor in a private house en 
 13 Luke 23, 24. After the sennon followed the blessed Communion, 
 of which I participated. In the afternoone Dr. Gunning at Excester 
 House expounding part of the Creede. 
 
 This had ben the severest winter that any man alive had known in 
 England. The crowes feete were frozen to their prey. Islands of ice 
 inclos'd both fish and fowl frozen, and some persons in their boates. 
 
 15 May was a public Fast to avert an epidemical sicknesse, very 
 mortal this spring. 
 
 20. I went to see a coach-race in Hide Park, and coUation'd in 
 Spring Garden. 
 
 23. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preach'd at Covent Gar- 
 den, on 6 Matthew 10. shewing what the kingdome of God was, how 
 pray for it, &c. 
 
 There was now a collection for persecuted and sequestered Ministers 
 of the Church of England, whereof divers are in prison. A sad day ! 
 The Church now in dens and caves of the earth. 
 
 31. I went to visite my Lady Peterborow, whose sonn, Mr. Mor- 
 daunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on his trial, and acquitted but 
 by one voice ; but that holy martyr Dr. Hewer was condemn'd to die, 
 without law, jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State as they 
 call'd it. A dangerous, treacherous time ! 
 
 1 In the Preface to his Translation of ** The Golden Book of St. Chiysostom, concerning 
 the Education of Children," is likewise given a very interesting account of this amiahle and 
 nromising child. 
 
 17 
 
258 CAPTURE OF A WHALE. EXECUTION OF DR. HEWER. 
 
 2 June. An extraordinary storm of haile and raine, the season as 
 cold as winter, the wind Northerly neere 6 moneths. 
 
 3. A large whale was taken betwixt my land butting on the Thames 
 and Greenewich, which drew an infinite concourse to see it, by water, 
 iorse, coach, and on foote, from London and all parts. It appear'd 
 first below Greenewich at low water, for at high water it would have 
 destroyed all the boates, but lying now in shallow water incompass'd 
 ■with boates, after a long conflict it was kill'd with a harping yron, struck 
 in the head, out of which spouted blood and water by two tunnells, and 
 after an horrid grone it ran quite on shore and died. Its length was 
 58 foote, heighth 16; black skin'd like coach leather, very small eyes, 
 greate taile, onely 2 small finns, a picked snout, and a mouth so wide 
 'that divers men might have stood upright in it ; no teeth, but suck'd 
 the slime onely as thro' a grate of that bone which we call whale-bone ; 
 the throate yet so narrow as would not have admitted the least of fishes. 
 "The extreames of the cetaceous bones hang downewards from the upper 
 jaw, and was hairy towards the ends and iDottom within side; all of it 
 'prodigious, but in nothing more wonderfuU then that an animal of so 
 igreate a bulk should be nourished onely by slime thro' those grates. 
 
 9. I went to see the Earl of Northumberland's pictures, whereof 
 ■that of the Venetian Senators'^ was one of the best of Titian's, and 
 ■another of Andrea del Sarto, viz. a Madona, Christy St. John, and an 
 
 Old Woman, &c. a St. Catharine of Da Vinci, with divers portraits of 
 'Van Dyke ; a Nativity of Georgioni ; the last of our blessed Kings 
 ■■{Charles I.) and the Duke of York, by Lely ; a rosarie by the famous 
 Jesuits of Bruxelles, and severall more. This was in Suffolk House: 
 the new front towards the gardens is toUerable, were it not drown'd 
 by a too massie and clomsie pair of stayres cf stone, without any neate 
 invention. 
 
 8. That excellent preacher and holy man Dr. Hewer was martyr'd 
 'for having intelligence with his Majesty,' thro' the Lord Marques of 
 Ormond. 
 
 10. I went to see the Medical Garden at Westminster, well stored 
 •••vith plants, under Morgan, a very skilfuU botanist. 
 
 26. To Eltham to visite honest Mr. Owen. 
 
 3 July. To London, and din'd with Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Dorell, ani 
 Mr. Ashmole, founder of the Oxford repository of rarities, with divers 
 doctors of physic and virtuosos. 
 
 15. Came to see my Lord Kilmurrey & Lady, Sir Robert Needham, 
 Mr. Offley, and two daughters of my Lord Willoughby of Parham. 
 
 3 Aug. Went to Sir John Evelyn at Godstone. The place is excel- 
 lent, but might be improved by turning some offices of the house, and 
 
 ^ The Comaro Family, still one of the grand ornaments of Northumberland House. There 
 is a fine Print of it, engraved by Baron, 
 •2 He was beheaded on Tower Hill. He was Minister of St. Gregory's, London. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 259 
 
 removing the garden. The house being a noble fabric tho' not com- 
 parable to what was first built by my uncle, who was master of all the 
 powder-mills. 
 
 5. We went to Squirries Westerham to visit my cousin Leech, 
 daughter to Sir John Evelyn ; a pretty, finely wooded, and well water'd 
 seate, the stables good, the house old, but convenient. 6. Returned to 
 Wotton. 
 
 la I din'd at Mr. Carew Raleigh's, at Horsley, son to the famous 
 Sir Walter. 
 
 14. We went to Durdans [Epsom] to a challeng'd match at bowls 
 for 10/. which we wonn. 
 
 18. To Sir Ambrose Brown at Betchworth Castle, in that tempes- 
 tuous wind which threw downe my greatest trees at Sayes Court, and 
 •did so much mischeife all over England. It continued the whole night 
 and till 3 in the afternoone of the next day, in the South West, and 
 yestroy'd all our winter fruit. 
 
 3 Sept. Died that arch rebell Oliver Cromwell, cal'd Protector. 
 
 16. Was publish'd my Translation of St. Chrysostome on Education 
 •of Children, which I dedicated to both my Brothers, to comfort them 
 •on the loss of their children. 
 
 21. My Lord Berkeley of Berkeley Castle invited me to dinner. 
 
 26. Mr. King preach'd at Ashted on 15 Proverbs 24; a Quaker 
 would have disputed with him. In the afternoone we heard Dr. Hacket 
 ■(since Bishop of Lichfield) at Cheame, where the family of the Lumlies 
 lie buried. 
 
 27. To Bedington, that ancient seate of the Carews, a fine old hall, 
 but a scambling house, famous for the first Orange gardens in England, 
 being now over-growne trees, planted in the ground, and secur'd in 
 winter with a wooden tabernacle and stoves. This seate is rarely 
 watred, lying low, & inviron'd with good pastures. The pomegranads 
 beare here. To the house is also added a fine park. Thence to Cass- 
 halton, excellently watred, and capable of being made a most delicious 
 seate, being on the sweete downes, and a champion about it full planted 
 with walnut and cherry-trees, which afford a considerable rent. 
 
 Riding over these downes and discoursing with the shepherds, I 
 found that digging about the bottom nc«re Sir Christopher Buckle's,? 
 neere Bansted, divers medails have ben found, both copper and silver, 
 with foundations of houses, urns, &c. Here indeede anciently stood a 
 Citty of the Romans. (Antonine's Itiner.) 
 
 29. I retum'd home after 10 weekes absence. 
 
 Oct. 2. I went to London to receive the H. Sacrament. On the 3rd 
 Dr. Wild preached in a private place on the 1 Isaiah 4. shewing the 
 
 1 This house is not far from the course of the Roman road from Chichester through Sussex, 
 and passing through Ockley and Dorking church-yard. Considerable remains of a Roman 
 building have been found on Walton Heath, South of this house:. 
 
26o FUNERAL OF OLIVER CROMWELL. PUBLICATION OF MY BOOK. 
 
 parallel betwixt the sinns of Israel and those of England. In the aftei- 
 noone Mr. Hall (sonn to Joseph Bp. of Norwich) on i Cor. 6. 2. of the 
 dignitie of the Saints, a most excellent discourse. 
 
 4. I din'd with the Holland Ambassador at Derby House: returning 
 I diverted to see a very -white raven, bred in Cumberland ; also a por- 
 cupine, of that kind that shoots its quills, (see Claudian) : it was headed 
 like a rat, the fore feete like a badger, the hind feete like a beare. 
 
 19. I was summoned to London by the Commissioners for new 
 buildings ; afterwards to the Commission of Sewers ; but because there 
 was an oath to be taken of fidelity to the Government as now constituted 
 without a King, I got to be excus'd and return'd home. 
 
 22. Saw the superb funerall of the Protector. He was carried from 
 Somerset House in a velvet bed of state drawn by six horses, houss'd 
 with the same ; the pall held up by his new Lords ; Oliver lying in 
 efifigie in royal robes, and crown'd with a crown, sceptre, and globe, like 
 a king ; the pendants and guidons were carried by the officers of the 
 army ; and the imperial banners, acheivements, &c. by the heraulds in 
 their coates ; a rich caparison'd horse, embroider'd all over with gold ; a 
 knight of honour arm'd cap-a-pie, and after all, his guards, souldiers, 
 and innumerable mourners. In this equipage they proceeded to West- 
 minster: but it was the joyfullest funerall I ever saw, for there were 
 none that cried but dogs, which the soldiers hooted away with a bar- 
 barous noise, drinking and taking tobacco in the streetes as they went. 
 I returned not home till the 17th Nov. 
 
 I was summon'd againe to London by the Commissioners for new 
 foundations to be erected within such a distance of London. 
 
 6 Dec. Now was publish'd my ' French Gardener,' the first and 
 best of that kind that introduc'd the use of the Olitorie garden to any 
 purpose. 
 
 23. I went with my wife to keep Christmas at my co. Geo. Tuke's, 
 at Cressing Temple in Essex. Lay that night at Brentwood. 
 
 25. Here was no publiq service, but what we privately us'd. I 
 blessed God for his mercies the yeare past, and i January begged a 
 continuance of them. Thus for three Sundays, by reason of the in- 
 cumbent's death, here was neither praying nor preaching, tho' there was 
 a Chapell in the house. 
 
 1659. 17 Jan. Our old Vicar preach'd, taking leave of the parish 
 in a pathetical speech, to go to a living in the Citty. 
 
 24 Mar. I went to London to speake to the patron Alderman Cuttler 
 about presenting a fit pastor for our destitute parish church. 
 
 5 April. Came the Earle of Northampton and the famous painter 
 Mr. Wright' to visite me. 
 
 * Mr. Michael Wright, who painted the twelve judges in Guildhall after the great fire. 
 There is a long account of him in ' Walpole's Anecdotes of Painting.' See more of him under 
 1660, Oct. 
 
THK DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 26r 
 
 lo April. One Mr. Littler being now presented to t&e living of our 
 parish, preach'd on 6 John 55, a sermon preparatory to the Holy 
 Sacrament. 
 
 25. A wonderfull and suddaine change in the face of the publiq ; 
 the new Protector Richard shghted ; several pretenders and parties 
 strive for the government: all anarchy and confusion ; Lord have mercy 
 on us ! 
 
 5 May. I went to visite my brother in London, and next day to see 
 a new Opera,^ after the Italian way, in recitative music and sceanes, 
 much inferior to the Italian composure and magnificence ; but it was 
 prodigious that in a time of such publiq consternation such a vanity 
 should be kept up or permitted. I being engag'd with company could 
 not decently resist the going to see it, tho' my heart smote me for it. 
 
 7. Came the Ambassador of Holland and his Lady to visite me, and 
 staid the whole aftemoone. 
 
 12. I return'd the visite, discoursing much of the revolutions, &c. 
 
 19 May. Came to dine with me my Lord Galloway and his son, a 
 Scotch Lord and learned ; also my Brother and his Lady, Lord Berkeley 
 and his Lady, Mrs. Shirley, and the famous singer Mrs. Knight,'' and 
 other friendes. 
 
 23. I went to Rookwood,' and din'd with Sir William Hicks, where 
 was a great feast and much company. 'Tis a melancholy old house, 
 inviron'd with trees and rooks. 
 
 26. Came to see me my Lord Geo. Berkeley, Sir Will. Ducy, and 
 Sir George Pott's sonn of Norfolk. 
 
 29. The Nation was now in extreame confusion and unsettl'd, be- 
 tween the Armies and the Sectaries, the poor Churcli of England 
 breathing as it were her last, so sad a face of things overspread us. 
 
 7 June. To London, to take leave of my brother, and see the founda- 
 tions now laying for a long streete and buildings in Hatton Garden, 
 design'd for a little towne, lately an ample garden. 
 
 I Sept. I communicated to Mr. Robert Boyle, son to the Earle of 
 Corke, my proposal for erecting a philosophic mathematic College. 
 
 1 5. Came to see me Mr. Brereton, a very learned gentleman, son 
 to my Lord Brereton, with his and divers other ladies. Also Henry 
 Howard of Norfolk, since Duke of Norfolk. 
 
 ^ Probably Sir William Davenant's Opera, in which the cruelty of the Spaniards in Peru 
 was expressed by instrumental and vocal music, and by art of perspective in scenes, 4to, 1658. 
 See the "Biographia Dramatica." 
 
 2 Afterwards one of Charles the Second's mistresses. 
 
 ' This was a house in Layton in Essex, better known by the name of Rockholt, or Ruck- 
 holt, built by Mr. Parvish, a former owner of the estate ; but a new house was afterwards 
 erected near the sit« of the former by the family of Hicks, of whom William was created a 
 baronet in 1619. King Charles II. was entertained here one day when he was hunting, and 
 knighted William the son of the Baronet. Morant, in his * History of Essex,' vol. I. p. 24, 
 printed 1768, speaks of the new house as having been a beautiful one, pulled down some yeais 
 ago. Previous to this it had been a place of public entertainment in a morning, at which 
 visitors were regaled with tea and music^ which is not mentioned bv Morant, 
 
362 NO GOVERNMENT IN THE NATION. MY ' APOLOGIE ' FOR THE KINGi 
 
 30. I went to visite Sir William Ducie and Col. Blount, where I met 
 Sir Henry Blount the famous traveller and water-drinker. 
 
 10. I came with my wife and family to London: tooke lodgings at 
 the 3 Feathers in Russell Street, Covent Garden, for all the winter, my 
 sonn being very unwell. 
 
 1 1 Oct. Came to visite me Mr. William Coventry (since Secretary 
 to the Duke) son to the Lord Keeper, a wise and witty gentleman. 
 
 The Armie now turn'd out the Parliament. We had now no Govern- 
 ment in the Nation ; all in confusion ; no Magistrate either own'd or 
 pretended but the Souldiers, and they not agreed. God Almighty have 
 mercy on and settle us ! 
 
 17. I visited Mr. Howard at Arundel house, who gave me a faire 
 onyx set in gold, and shew'd me his designe of a Palace there. 
 
 21. A private Fast was kept by the Church of England Protestants 
 in towne, to beg of God the removal of His judgments, with devout 
 prayers for His mercy to our calamitous Church. 
 
 7 Nov. Was publish'd my bold Apologie for the King in this time 
 of danger, when it was capital to speake or write in favour of him. It 
 was twice printed, so universaly it took. 
 
 9. We observ'd our solemn Fast for the calamity of our Church. 
 
 12. I went to see the severall drougs for the confection of Treacle, 
 Dioscordiitm, and other Electuaries, which an ingenious Apothecarie 
 had not onely prepared and rang'd on a large and very long table, but 
 cover'd every ingredient with a sheete of paper, on which was very lively 
 painted the thing in miniature, well to the life, were it plant, flowre, 
 animal, or other exotic droug. 
 
 15 Nov. Din'd with the Dutch Ambassador. He did in a manner 
 acknowledge that his Nation mind only their own profit, do nothing out 
 of gratitude, but coUateraly as it relates to their gaine or security ; and 
 therefore the English were to look for nothing of assistance to the 
 banish'd King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, tho' an 
 ingenuous confession. 
 
 18. Mr. Gunning celebrated the wonted Fast, and preached on 3 
 Phil. 12, 13. — Nov. 24. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to 
 the 41st wedding-day feast, where was much company of friends. 
 
 26. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers learned and 
 worthy persons, Sir J. Marsham, Mr. Dugdale, Mr. Stanley, and others. 
 
 9 Dec. I supp'd with Mr. Gunning, it being our Fast-day, Dr. 
 Feame, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain, Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild' 
 and other devout and learned Divines, firm Confessors and excellent 
 persons. Note : Most of them since made Bishops. 
 
 ' He was of Se. John's College, Oxford, Chaplain to Abp. Laud, Vicar of St. Giles, Read- 
 ing. Adhering to the King he preach'd before the Parliament at Oxford. After the Restora* 
 tion he was made Bp. of Londonderry in Ireland. He had kept up a religious meeting foe 
 the Royalists in Fleet Street Wood's Athens, vol. 11. p. 251. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 263- 
 
 lo. I treated privately with Col. Morley, then Lieutenant of the 
 Tower, and in greate trust and power, concerning delivering it to the 
 King, and the bringing of him in, to the greate hazard of my life, but 
 the Coll. had ben my scholefellow, and I knew would not betray me. 
 
 12. I spent in publiq concerns for his Majesty, pursuing the point, 
 to bring over Colonel Morley, and his brother-in-law Fayne, Governor 
 of Portsmouth. 
 
 18. Preached that famous divine Dr. Sanderson (since Bp. of Linc.)i 
 now 80 yeares old, on 30 Jer. 13. concerning the evil of forsaking God.. 
 
 29. Came my Lord Count Arundel of Wardour to visite me. I went 
 also to see my Lord Viscount Montague. 
 
 31. Settling my domestic affaires in order, blessed God for his 
 infinite mercies and preservations the past yeare. 
 
 Annus Mirabilis 1660. Jan. i. Begging God's blessings for the 
 following yeare, I went to Excester Chapell, when Mr. Gunning began 
 the yeare on 4 Galatians v. 3 to 7, shewing the love of Christ in shed- 
 ding his blood so early for us. 
 
 12. Wrote to Col. Morley againe to declare for his Majesty. 
 
 22. I went this aftemoone to visit Coll. Morley. After dinner I dis- 
 cours'd with him, but he was very jealous, and would not believe Monk, 
 came in to do the King any service ; I told him he might do it without 
 him, and have all the honour. He was still doubtfull, and would re- 
 solve on nothing yet, so I took leave. """" 
 
 3 Feb. Kept the Fast. Generall Monk came now to London out 
 of Scotland, but no man knew what he would do, or declare, yet he- 
 was met on all his way by the Gentlemen of all the Counties which he 
 pass'd, with petitions that he would recall the old long interrupted Par- 
 liament and settle the nation in some order, being at this time in most 
 prodigious confusion and under no government, every body expecting, 
 what would be next and what he would do. 
 
 10. Now were the Gates of the Citty broken down by General Monke, 
 which exceedingly exasperated the Citty, the souldiers marching up and 
 down as triumphing over it, and all the old army of the phanatics put 
 'sut of their posts, and sent out of towne. 
 
 11. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous and wretchedi 
 a pack of knaves would have still usurped the supreame power, and 
 having intelhgence that they intended to take away his commission^ 
 repenting of what he had don to the Citty, and where he and his forces 
 quartered, marches to White-hall, dissipates that nest of robbers, and 
 convenes the old Parliament, the Rump Parliament (so call'd as retain- 
 ing some few rotten members of the other) being dissolVd ; and for joy 
 whereofif were many thousand of rumps roasted publiqly in the streetes 
 At the bonfires this night ', with ringing of bells, and universal jubilee. 
 This was the first good omen. 
 
 ^ Pamphlets with cuts representing this were printed at the time. 
 
264 MY PAMPHLET. THE RESTORATION OF CHARLES IL 
 
 From 17 Feb. to 5 April I was detam'd in bed with a land of double 
 
 tertian, the cruell effects of the spleene and other distempers, in that 
 extremity that my physicians, Drs. Wetherborn, Needham, and Claude, 
 were in great doubt of my recovery, but it pleas'd God to deliver md 
 out of this affliction, for which I render him hearty thanks : going to 
 Church the 8th and receiving the blessed Eucharist. 
 
 During this sicknesse came divers of my relations and friends to 
 visite me, and it retarded my going into the country longer than I in- 
 tended ; however! writ and printed a letter in defence of his Majesty 1, 
 against a v/icked forg'd paper, pretended to be sent from Bruxells to 
 defame his Majesties person and vertues, and render him odious, now 
 when every body was in hope and expectation of the General and Par- 
 liament recalling him, and establishing the Government on its antient 
 and right basis. The doing this towards the decline of my sicknesse, 
 and setting up long in my bed, had caus'd a small relapse, out of which 
 it yet pleas'd God also to free me, so as by the 14th I was able to go 
 into the country, which 1 did to my sweete and native aire at Wotton. 
 
 3 May. Came the most happy tidings of his Majesty's gracious de- 
 claration and applications to the Parliament, Generall, and People, and 
 their dutiful acceptance and acknowledgment, after a most bloudy and 
 unreasonable rebellion of neere 20 yeares. Praised be for ever the Lord 
 of Heaven, who onely deeth wondrous things, because His mercy en- 
 dureth for ever ! 
 
 8. This day was his Majestie proclaim'd in London, &c. 
 
 9 May. I was desir'd, and design'd to accompany my Lord Berkeley 
 with the public Addresse of the Parliament, Generall, &c. to the King, 
 and invite him to come over and assume his Kingly Government, he 
 being now at Breda ; but I was yet so weake I could not make that 
 journey by sea, which was not a little to my detriment, so I went to 
 London to excuse myselfe, returning the loth, having yet receiv'd a 
 gracious message from his Majestie by Major Scot and Coll. Tuke. 
 
 24. Came to me Col. Morley, about procuring his pardon, now too 
 late seeing his error and neglect of the counsel 1 gave him, by which if 
 he had taken it he had certainly done the great work with the same 
 -ease that Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a post 
 ■to have done what he pleas'd, but his jealousie and feare kept him from 
 that blessing and honor. I address'd him Lord Mordaunt, then in 
 ■greate favour, for his pardon, which he obtain'd at the cost of 1000/. as 
 I heard. O the sottish omission of this gentleman ! what did I not 
 undergo of danger in this negotiation to have brought him over to his 
 Majesty's interest, when it was intirely in his hands ! 
 
 29. This day his Majestie Charles II. came to London after a sad 
 
 1 The title cf it is, ' The late News or Message from Brussels unmask'd. ' This and the 
 pamphlet which gave occasion for it are printed in ' A CoUectioa of interesting Tracts selected 
 irom the Sonuners Collection of Tracts/ z voL 4to. 1795. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 26} 
 
 and long exile and calamitous suffering both of the King and Church, 
 being 17 yeares. This was also his birth-day, and with a triumph of 
 above 20,000 horse and foote, brandishing their swords and shouting 
 with inexpressible joy ; the wayes strew'd with flowers, the bells ringing, 
 the streetes hung with tapistry, fountaines running with wine ; the 
 Maior, Aldermen, and all the Companies in their liveries, chaines of 
 gold, and banners ; Lords and Nobles clad in cloth of silver, gold, and 
 velvet ; the windowes and balconies well set with ladies ; trumpets, 
 music, and myriads of people flocking, even so far as from Rochester, 
 so as they were seven houres in passing the Citty, even from 2 in the 
 afternoone till 9 at night. 
 
 I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and bless'd God. And all this 
 was don without one drop of bloud shed, and by that very army which 
 rebell'd against him ; but it was the Lord's doing, for such a Restaura- 
 tion was never mention'd in any history antient or modern, since the 
 returne of the Jews from the Babylonish captivity ; nor so joyiuUa day 
 and so bright ever seene in this Nation, this hapning when to expect or 
 effect it was past all human policy. 
 
 4 June. 1 receiv'd letters of Sir Richard Browne's landing at Dovet^ 
 and also letters from the Queene, which I was to deliver at White-hall, 
 not as yet presenting myselfe to his Majesty by reason of the infinite 
 concourse of people. The eagerness of men, women, and children to 
 see his Majesty and kisse his hands was so greate, that he had scarce 
 leisure to eate for some dayes, coming as they did from all parts of the 
 Nation ; and the King being as willing to give them that satisfaction, 
 would have none kept out, but gave accesse to all sorts of people. 
 
 Addressing myselfe to the Duke, I was carried to his Majestie when 
 very few noblemen were with him, and kiss'd his hands, being very 
 graciously receiv'd. I then return'd home to meete Sir Richard Browne, 
 who came not till the 8th, after a 19 yeares exile, during all which time 
 he kept up in his chapell the Liturgie and Offices of the Church of 
 England, to his no small honour, and in a time when it was so low, and 
 as many thought utterly lost, that in various controversies both with 
 Papists and Sectaries our Divines us'd to argue for the visibility of the 
 Church, from his chapell and congregation. 
 
 I was all this week to and fro at Court about buisinesse. 
 
 16. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers came to make their 
 address to his Majesty, one Monsieur Stoope pronouncing the harangue 
 with greate eloquence. 
 
 18. I propos'd the Ambassy of Constantinople for Mr. Henshaw, 
 but my Lord Winchelsea struck in.' 
 
 Goods that had ben pillag'd from White-hall during the Rebellion 
 
 1 It was on his return from this embassy that his Lordship visiting Sicily was an eye-wit- 
 ness of the dreadful eruption of Mount jEtna in 1669, a short account ot which was afterwards 
 published in a small pamphlet, with a cut by Hollar of the Mountain, &c. 
 
266 TOUCHING FOR. THE KING'S EVIL. CITY OF COLOGNf. 
 
 were now daily brought in and restor'd upon proclamation ; as plate, 
 hangings, pictures, &c. 
 
 21. The Warwickshire gentlemen (as did all the shires and cheil 
 townes in all the three Nations) presented their congratulatory Addresse. 
 It was carried by my Lord Northampton. 
 
 30. The Sussex gentlemen presented their Addresse, to which was 
 my hand. I went with it and kiss'd his Majesties hand, who was pleas'd 
 to own me more particularly by calling me his old acquaintance and 
 speaking very graciously to me. 
 
 3 July. I went to Hide-park, w^here was his Majestic and abound- 
 ance of gallantrie. 
 
 4. I heard Sir Sam. Tuke harangue to the House of Lords in 
 behalfe of the Roman Catholics, and his account of the transaction at 
 Colchester in murdering Lord Capel, and the rest of those brave men 
 that suffer'd in cold bloud, after articles of rendition. 
 
 5. I saw his Majestie go with as much pompe and splendour as any 
 earthly prince could do to the greate Citty feast, the first, they had 
 invited him to since his retume, but the exceeding raine which fell all 
 that day much eclips'd its lustres. This was at Guild-hall, and there 
 was also all the Parliament men, both Lords and Commons. The 
 streetes were adorn'd with pageants at immense cost. 
 
 6. His Majestie began first to touch for the evil, according to cos- 
 tome, thus : his Majestie sitting under his State intheBanquetting House, 
 the Chirurgeons cause the sick to be brought or led up to the throne, 
 where they kneeling, the King strokes their faces or cheekes with both 
 his hands at once, at which instant a Chaplaine in his formalities says, 
 ' He put his hands upon them and he healed them.' This is sayd to 
 every one in particular. When they have ben all touch'd they come 
 up againe in the same order, and the other Chaplaine kneeling, and 
 having Angel gold' strung on white ribbon on his arme, delivers theni 
 one by one to his Majestie, who puts them about the necks of the touched 
 as they passe, whilst the first Chaplaine repeats, ' That is the true light 
 who came into the world.' Then followes an Epistle (as at first a 
 Gospell) with the Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some alteration, 
 lastly the blessing ; and the Lo. Chamberlaine and Comptroller of the 
 Household bring a basin, ewer and towell, for his Majestie to wash. 
 
 The King receiv'd a congratulatory addresse from the Citty of Co- 
 logne in Germany, where he had ben some time in his exile ; his Majesty 
 saying they were the best people in the world, the most kind and worthy 
 to him that he ever met with. 
 
 1 recommended Mens. Messeroy to be Judge Advocate in Jersey, by 
 the Vice-Chamberlain's mediation with the Earle of St. Albans ; and 
 saluted my excellent and worthy noble friend my Lord Ossory, sonn to 
 the Marquess of Ormond, after many yeares absence returned home. 
 
 ^ Pieces of money so called from having the figure of am angel on them. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 267 
 
 8. Mr. Henchman preached on 5 Ephes. 5, concerning Christian 
 circumspection. From henceforth was the Liturgie publiquely used in 
 our Churches, whence it had ben for so many yeares banished. 
 
 1 5. Came Sir Geo. Carterett and Lady to visite us : he was now 
 Treasurer of the Navy. 
 
 28. I heard his Majesties Speech in the Lords House, on passing the 
 Bills of Tonnage and Poundage ; restauration of my Lord Ormond to 
 his estate in Ireland ; concerning the Commission of Sewers, and con- 
 tinuance of the Excise.— In the afternoone I saluted my old friend the 
 Archbishop of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall). 
 He presented several Irish Divines to be promoted as Bishops in that 
 kingdom, most of the Bishops in the three kingdoms being now 
 almost wome out, and the Sees vacant. 
 
 31. I went to visite Sir Philip Warwick, now Secretary to the Lord 
 Treasurer, at his house in North Cray. 
 
 Aug. 19. Our Vicar read the 39 Articles to the Congregation, the 
 National Assemblies beginning to settle, and wanting instruction. 
 
 23. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several Scottish 
 Lords, to see my garden. 
 
 25. Coll. Spencer, CoUonel of a Regiment of Horse in our County 
 of Kent, sent to me and intreated that I would take a Commission for 
 a Troope of Horse, and that I woulde nominate my Lieutenant and 
 Ensigns ; I thank'd him the honour intended me, but would by no 
 means undertake the trouble. 
 
 4 Sept. I was invited to an Ordination by the Bishop of Bangor in 
 Henry the Sevenths Chapell, Westminster, and afterwards saw the 
 audience of an Envoyee from the Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment 
 his Majesties return. 
 
 5. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoyde of the King of Po- 
 land and Resident of the King of Denmark, &c. 
 
 7. I went to Chelsey, to visite Mr. Boyle, and see his pneumatic 
 engine performe divers experiments. Thence to Kensington, to visite 
 M. Henshaw, returning home that evening. 
 
 13. I saw in South wark at St. Margaret's Faire, monkies and apes 
 dance and do other feates of activity on the high rope ; they were gal- 
 lantly clad A la mode, went upright, saluted the company, bowing and 
 pulling off their hatts ; they saluted one another with as good a grace 
 as if instructed by a dauncing-master ; they turn'd heels over head with 
 a basket having eggs in it, without breaking any ; also with lighted 
 candles in their hands and on their heads without extinguishing them, 
 and with vesseUs of water without spilling a drop. I also saw an 
 Italian wench daunce and performe all the tricks on the high rope to 
 admiration ; all the Court went to see her. Likewise here was a man 
 who tooke up a piece of iron cannon of about 4001b. weight with the 
 haire of his head onely. 
 
268 POLL TAX PAID. EXECUTION OF REGICIDES. 
 
 17 Sept. I went to London to see the splendid entry of the Prince 
 
 de Ligne, Ambassador extraordinary from Spaine ; he was Generall of 
 the Spanish King's horse in Flanders, and was accompanied with diverr 
 greate persons from thence, and an innumerable retinue. His train 
 consisted of 17 coaches with 6 horses of his owne, besides a gre?te 
 number of English, &c. Greater bravery had I never scene. He was 
 receiv'd in the Banquetting House in exceeding state, all the greate 
 Officers of Court attending. 
 
 13. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee the Duke of Glocester 
 died of the small pox in the prime of his youth, and a prince of 
 extraordinary hopes. 
 
 27. The King receiv'd the Merchants Addresses in his closet, 
 giving them assurance of his persisting to keepe Jamaica, choosing Sir 
 Edw. Massy Governor. In the afternoone the Danish Ambassadors 
 condolencies were presented, on the death of the D. of Gloucester. This 
 evening I saw the Princesse Royal, mother to the Pr. of Orange, now 
 come out of Holland in a fatal period. 
 
 6 Oct. I paid the greate Tax of Poll Money levied for disbanding 
 the Army, till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire ^.10, and one 
 shilling for every servant in my house. 
 
 7 Oct. There din'd with me a French Count, with Sir George Tuke, 
 who came to take leave of me, being sent over to the Queene Mother to 
 breake the marriage of the Duke with the daughter of Chancellor Hide. 
 The Queene would fain have undon it, but it seemes matters were 
 reconcii'd on greate offers of the Chancellor's to befriend the Queene, 
 who was much in debt, and was now to have the settlement of her 
 
 ^.afeires go through his hands. 
 
 II Oct. The Regicides who sat on the life of our late King, were 
 brought to tryal in the Old Bailey, before a Commission of Oyer and 
 Terminer. 
 
 14. Axtall, Carew, Clements, Hacker, Hewson, and Peters, were 
 executed. 
 
 17. Scot, Scroope, Cook, and Jones, suffered for reward of their 
 iniquities at Charing Crosse, in sight of the place where they put to 
 death their natural Prince, and in the presence of the King his sonn 
 whom they also sought to kill. I saw not their execution, but met 
 their quarters mangl'd and cutt and reeking as they were brought from 
 the gallows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh the miraculous providence 
 of God ! 
 ~~~ 28. His Majesty went to meet the Queene Mother. 
 
 29. Going to London, my Lord Mater's shew stopp'd me in 
 Cheapside ; one of the pageants represented a greate Wood, with the 
 Royal Oake and historic of his Majesty's miraculous escape at Boscobel. 
 
 Oct. 31. Arived now to my Fortieth year, I rendered to Almighty 
 God my due and hearty thanks. 
 
THE DIARY OP JOHN EVELYN. 269 
 
 Nov. I. 1 went with some of my relations to Court, to shew them 
 his Majesties cabinet and closset of rarities ; the rare miniatures of 
 Peter Oliver after Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which I infinitely 
 csteeme ; also that large piece of the Dutchesse of Lennox don in ena- 
 maile by Petitot, and a vast number of achates, onyxes and intaglios, 
 especially a medalion of Caesar, as broad as my hand ; likewise rare 
 cabinets of Pietra Commessa ; a landscape of needlework, formerly 
 presented by the Dutch to King Cha. I. Here I saw a vast book of 
 mapps in a volume neere 4 yards large ; a curious ship modell ; and 
 amongst the clocks, one that shew'd the rising and setting of the Sun 
 in the Zodiaq, the Sunn represented by a face and raies of gold, upon 
 an azure skie, observing the diurnal and annual motion, rising and 
 setting behind a landscape of hills, the work of our famous Fromantel ; 
 and severall other rarities. 
 
 3. AriVd the Queene Mother in England, whence she had ben 
 banish'd almost 20 yeares ; together with her illustrious daughter the 
 Princesse Henrietta, divers Princes and Noblemen accompanying them. 
 
 15. I kiss'd the Queene Mother's hand. 
 
 20. I din'd at the Clerk Comptroler's of the Greene Clothe, being 
 the first day of the re-establishment of the Court Diet and settling of 
 his Majesty's Household. 
 
 23. Being this day in the Bedchamber of the Princess Henrietta, 
 where were many greate beauties and noblemen, I saluted divers of my 
 old friends and acquaintances abroad ; his Majesty carrying my wife to 
 salute the Queene and Princesse, and then led her into his closet, and 
 with his owne hands shew'd her divers curiosities. 
 
 25. Dr. Rainbow preach'd before the King, on 2 Luke 14. of the 
 glory to be given God for all his mercies, especialy for restoring the 
 Church and government ; now the service was perform 'd with musiq, 
 voices, &c. as formerly. 
 
 27. Came downe the Cleark Comptroler [of the Greene Cloth] by 
 the Lord Steward's appointment, to survey the land at Says Court, on 
 which I had pretence, and to make his report." 
 
 Dec. 6. I waited on my brother and sister Evelyn to Court. Now 
 were presented to his Majestie those two rare pieces of Drolery, or 
 rather a Dutch Kiichin, painted by Dowe so finely as hardly to be 
 distinguish'd from enamail. I was also shew'd divers rich Jewells and 
 chrystal vases ; the rare head of Jo. Belino, Titian's master ; Christ in 
 the Garden, by Hannibal Caracci ; two incomparable heads by Hol- 
 bein ; the Queene Mother in a miniature, almost as big as the life ; an 
 exquisite piece of carving, 2 unicorns' homes, &c. This in the Closset. 
 
 1 The King's Household used to bo supplied with com and cattle from the different Counties ; 
 and oxen being sent up, pasture grounds of the King near town were allotted for them : 
 amongst these were lands at Deptford and Tottenham Court, which were under the direction 
 of the Lord Steward and Board of Greene Cloth. Sir Rich. Browne had the keeping of the 
 lands at Deptford. 
 
270 DEATH OF THE PRINCESS OF ORANGE. 
 
 13. I presented my son John to the Queene Mother, who kissed 
 him, talked with and made extraordinary much of him. 
 
 14- I visited my Lord Chancellor, the Marchionesse of Ormond, and 
 Countesse of Guildford, all of whom we had knowne abroad in exile. 
 
 18. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most ingenious gentleman, grandchild 
 to the learned Sir Henry, to my Lord Mordaunt, to whom I had re- 
 commended him as Secretary. 
 
 22. The marriage of the Chancellor's daughter being now newly 
 owned, I went to see her, she being Sir Richard Browne's intimate 
 acquaintance when she waited on the Princesse of Orange ; she was 
 now at her father's at Worcester House in the Strand. We all kiss'd 
 her hand, as did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and Coun- 
 tesse of Northumberland. This was a strange change — can it succeed 
 well ! — I spent the evening at St. James's, whither the Princesse Hen- 
 rietta was retir'd during the fatal sicknesse of her sister the Princesse 
 of Orange, now come over to salute the King her brother. The Prin- 
 cesse gave my wife an extraordinary compliment and gracious accept- 
 ance, for the ' Character ' she had presented her the day before, and 
 which was afterwards printed. 
 
 21. This day died the Princesse of Orange, of the small pox, which 
 wholly alter'd the face and gallantry of the whole Court. 
 
 25. Preached at the Abbey Dr. Earle, Cleark of his Majesties Closet 
 and my deare friend, now Deane of Westminster, on 2 Luke 13. 14. 
 condoling the breache made in thepubliq joy by the lamented death of 
 the Princesse. 
 
 30. I din'd at Court with Mr. Crane, Cleark of the Greene Cloth. 
 
 31. I gave God thankes for his many signal mercies to my selfe, 
 Church and Nation, this wonderfuU yeare. 
 
 1661. 2 Jan. The Queene Mother, with the Princesse Henrietta, 
 began her journey to Portsmouth, in order to h'er retume into France. 
 
 5. I visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, with whom I had ben 
 well acquainted abroad. 
 
 6. Dr. AUestree preach 'd at the Abby, after which 4 Bishops were 
 consecrated, Hereford, Norwich .... 
 
 This night was suppress'd a bloudy insurrection ot some Fifth-Mo- 
 narchy enthusiasts. Some of them were examin'd at the Council the 
 next day, but could say nothing to extenuate their madnesse and un- 
 warrantable zeala 
 
 I was now chosen (and nominated by his Majestie for one of the 
 Council) by suffrage of the rest of the Members, a Fellow of the Philo- 
 sophic Society now meeting at Gressham College, where was an as- 
 sembly of divers learned gentlemen. This being the first meeting since 
 the King's return ; but it had ben begun some yeares before at Oxford, 
 and was continued with interruption here in London during the Rebellion. 
 
 There was another rising of the Phanatics, in which some were slaine. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 271 
 
 16. I went to the Philosophic Club, where was examin'd the Torri- 
 cellian experiment. I presented my Circle of Mechanical Trades, and 
 had recommended to me the publishing of what I had written upon 
 Chalcography. 
 
 25. After divers yeares since I had seen any play, I went to see acted 
 * The Scornful Lady,' at a new Theater in Lincoln's Inn Fields. 
 
 30. Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation to deplore the- 
 sinns which so long had provok'd God against this afflicted church and 
 people, order'd by Parliament to be annually celebrated to expiate the 
 guilt of the execrable murder of the late King. 
 
 This day (O the stupendous and inscrutable judgments of God !) 
 were the carcasses of those arch rebells Cromwell, Bradshaw the Judge 
 who condemned his Majestic, and Ireton, sonn-in-law to the Usurper, 
 dragg'd out of their superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings, 
 to Tybume, and hang'd on the gallows there from 9 in the morning till 
 6 at night, and then buried under that fatal and ignominious monument 
 in a deepe pitt ; thousands of people who had seene them in all their 
 pride being spectators. Looke back at Nov. 22, 1658, [Oliver's 
 funeral,] and be astonish'd ! and feare God and honor the King ; but 
 meddle not with them who are given to change ! 
 
 6 Feb. To London to our Society, where I gave notice of the visit 
 of the Danish Ambassador Extraordinary, and was ordered to return 
 him their acceptance of that honour, and to invite him the next 
 meeting day. 
 
 10. Dr. Baldero preach 'd at Ely House, on 6 Matt. v. 33. of seeking 
 early the kingdome of God ; after sermon the Bishop (Dr. Wren) gave 
 us the blessing very pontifically. 
 
 13 Feb. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to our meeting at 
 Gressham College, where were shew'd him divers experiments in vacuo, 
 and other curiosities. 
 
 21. Prince Rupert first shewed me how to grave in Mezzo Tinto. 
 
 26. I went to Lord Mordaunt's at Parson's Green. 
 
 27. Ash Wed. Preached before the King the Bishop of London 
 (Dr. Sheldon) on 18 Matt. 25. concerning charity and forgivenesse. 
 
 8 March. I went to my Lord Chancellor's, and deliver'd to him the 
 state of my concernement at Sayes Court. 
 
 9. I went with that excellent person and philosopher Sir Robert 
 Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsey, and saw divers effects of the 
 Eolipile for weighing aire. 
 
 13. I went to Lambeth with Sir R. Browne's pretence to the War- 
 <lenship of Merton Coll. Oxford, to which, as having ben about 40 
 years before a student of that house, he was elected by the votes of 
 every Fellow except one ; but the Statutes of the house being so that 
 unlesse every Fellow agree, the election devolves to the Visitor, who is 
 the Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon), his Grace gave his nomina- 
 
 \ 
 
273 MY HISTORY OF CHALCOGRAPHY. DECLINE BEING KNIGHTED. 
 
 tion to Sir T. Clayton, resid'"nt there and the Physick Professor ; for 
 which I was not at all displeas'd, because, tho' Sir Richard miss'd it by 
 much ingratitude and wrong of the Archbishop (Clayton being no 
 Fellow), yet it would have hinder'd Sir Richard from attending at 
 Court to settle his greater concemes, and so have prejudic'd me, tho' 
 he was much inclin'd to have pass'd his time in a collegiate life, very 
 unfit for him at that time, for many reasons. So I tooke leave of his 
 Grace, who was formerly Lord Treasurer in the reigne of Chs. I. 
 
 This aftemoone Prince Rupert shew'd me with his owne hands the 
 new way of graving called Mezzo Tinto, which afterwards by his per- 
 mission I publish'd in my History of Chalcography ; this set so many 
 artistes on worke, that they soone ariv'd to that perfection it is since 
 come, emulating the tenderest miniatures. 
 
 Our Society now gave in my relation of the Pic of Teneriffe in the 
 Great Canaries, to be added to more queries concerning divers natural 
 things reported of that Island. 
 
 I retum'd home with my Cousin Tuke, now going for France, as 
 sent by his Majesty, to condole the death of that greate minister and 
 politician Cardinal Mazarine. 
 
 29. Dr. Heylin (author of the Geography) preach'd at the Abby, on 
 5 Cant. 25. concerning Friendship & Charitie ; he was, I think, at this 
 time quite darke, and so had ben for some yeares. 
 
 31. This night his Majectie promis'd to make my wife Lady of the 
 Jewels (a very honourable charge) to the future Queene (but which he 
 never perform'd.) 
 
 I April. I din'd with that great mathematician and virtuoso Mon- 
 sieur Zulichem, inventor of the pendule clock, and discoverer of the 
 phenomenon of Saturn's annulus ; he was elected into our Society. 
 
 19. To Londoi., and saw the bathing and rest of the ceremonies of 
 the Knights of the Bath, preparatory to the Coronatipii.J it was in the 
 Painted Chamber, Westminster. I might have received this honour, 
 but declined it. The rest of the Ceremonie was in the Chapell at 
 White-hall, when tneir swords being laid on the altar, the Bishop de- 
 liver'd them. 
 
 22. Was the splendid cavalcade of his Majestie from the Tower of 
 London to White-hall, when I saw him in the Banquetting House 
 create 6 Earls, and as many Barons, viz. 
 
 Edward Lord Hide,' Lord Chancellor, Earle of Clarendon ; sup- 
 
 1 In 1656 or 1657. attempts were made to remove the Chancellor (Hyde), by accusing him 
 of betrayimg his Majesty's Counsels, and holding correspondence with Cromwell ; but these 
 allegations were so trivial and frivolous, that they manifestly appeared to be nothing but the 
 effects of malice against him, and therefore produced the contrary effects to those which soma 
 desired, and strengthened the King's kindness to him ; as giving him just occasion to believe 
 that these suggestions against him proceeded all from one and the same cause, namely, from 
 the ambition which some people had to enter in his room into the first trust of his Majesty's 
 affairs, if once they could remo^-e him from his station. Life of King James 11. from his own 
 papers, 1816, vol. 1, p. 274, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 273 
 
 ported by the Earles of Northumberland and Sussex ; the Earle of 
 Bedford carried the cap and coronet, the Earle of Warwick the sword, 
 the Earle of Newport the mantle. 
 
 Next, was Capel, created Earle of Essex ; Brudenell, Cardigan ; 
 Valentia, Anglesea ; Greenvill, Bath ; and Howard, Earle of Carlisle. 
 
 The Barons were ; Denzill Holies ; Cornwallis ; Booth ; Townsend ; 
 Cooper ; Crew ; who were all led up by severall Peers, with Garter and 
 Officers of Armes before them ; when, after obedience on their severall 
 approches to the Throne, their patents were presented by Garter King 
 at Armes, which being receiv'd by the Lord Chamberlaine and deliver'd 
 to his Majesty, and by him to the Secretary of State, were read and then 
 againe deliver'd to his Majestie, and by him to the severall Lords 
 created ; they were then rob'd, their coronets and collers put on by his 
 Majestie, and they were plac'd in rank on both sides the State and 
 Throne, but the Barons put off their caps and circles and held them in 
 their hands, the Earles keeping on their coronets as cousins to the King. 
 
 I spent the rest of the evening in seeing the severall arch-trium- 
 phals built in the streetes at severall eminent places thro' which his 
 Majesty was next day to passe, some of which, tho'temporary, and to stand 
 but one yeare, were of good invention and architecture, with inscriptions. 
 
 23. Was the Coronation of his Majesty Charles IL in the Abby 
 Church of Westminster ; at all which ceremonie I was present. The 
 King and all his Nobility went to the Tower, I accompanying my 
 Lord Viscount Mordaunt part of the way ; this was on Sun. the 22d, 
 but indeede his Majestie went not til early this morning, and proceeded 
 from thence to Westminster in this order :, 
 
 First went the Duke of York's Horse Guards. Messengers of the 
 Chamber. 136 Esquires to the Knights of the Bath, each of whom 
 had two, most richly habited. The Knight Harbinger. Serjeant 
 Porter. Sewers of the Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clearks of 
 Chancery. Clearke of the Signet. Clearke of the Privy Seale. Clearks 
 of the Council, of the Parliament, and of the Crowne. Chaplaines in or- 
 dinary having dignitaries lo. Kings Advocats and Remembrancer. 
 Council at Law. Members of the Chancery. Puisne Serjeants. Kings 
 Attorney and Sohcitor. Kings eldest Serjeant. Secretaries of the 
 French and Latin e tongue. Gent. Ushers, Daily Waiters, Sewers, Car- 
 vers, and Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of the Body 4. Masters 
 of standing offices being no Councellors, viz. of the Tents, Revels, 
 Ceremonies, Armorie, Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. Chamberlaine 
 of the Exchequer. IBarons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord Chiefe 
 Baron. Lord C. Justice of the Common Pleas. Master of the Rolls. 
 Lord C. Justice of England. Trumpets. Gentlemen of the Privy 
 Chamber. Knights of the Bath, 68, in crimson robes exceeding rich 
 
 ' There is a full account of this Ceremony with fine Sculptures, in a folio volume, published 
 ty John Ogilby, i66i. 
 
 lo 
 
274 THE CORONATION OF CHARLES THE SECOND. 
 
 and the noblest shew of the whole cavalcade, his Majestie excepted. 
 Knt. Marshall. Treasurer of the Chamber. Master of the Jewells. 
 Lords of the Privy Council. Comptroller of the Household. Treasurer 
 of the Household. Trumpets. Serjeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at 
 Armes. Barons. Two Pursuivants at Armas. Viscounts. TwoHeraulds. 
 Earles. Lord Chamberlaine of the Household. Two Heraulds. 
 Marquisses. Dukes. Heralds Clarencieux and Norroy. Lord Chan- 
 cellor. Lord High Steward of England. Two persons repre- 
 senting the Dukes of Normandy and Aquitain, viz. Sir Richard 
 Fanshawe and Sir Herbert Price, in fantastiq habits of the time. 
 Gentlemen Ushers. Garter. Lord Maior of London. The Duke of 
 York alone (the rest by two's). Lord High Constable of England. 
 Lord Great Chamberlaine of England. The Sword borne by the Earle 
 Marshal of England. The KING in royal robes and equipage. After- 
 wards follo\v'd Equerries, Footemen, Gent. Pensioners. Master of the 
 Horse leading a horse richly caprison'd. Vice Chamberlaine. Captain 
 of the Pensioners. Captain of the Guard. The Guard. The Horse Guard. 
 The Troope of Volunteers with many other Officers and Gentlemen. 
 
 This magnificent traine on horseback, as rich as embroidery, velvet, 
 cloth of gold and silver, and Jewells, could make them and their 
 pransing horses, proceeded thro' the streetes strew'd with flowers, 
 houses hung with rich tapessry, windoes and balconies fuU of ladies ; 
 the London Militia lining the ways, and the severall Companies with 
 their banners and loud musiq rank'd in their orders ; the fountaines 
 running wine, bells ringing, with speeches made at the severall trium- 
 phal arches ; at that of the Temple Barr (neere which I stood) the 
 Lord Maior was receiv'd by the Bayliff of Westminster, who in a scar- 
 let robe made a speech. Thence with joyful acclamations his Majestie 
 passed to Whitehall. Bonfires at night. 
 
 The next day, being St. George's, he went by water to Westminster 
 Abby. When his Majestie was enter'd, the Deane and Prebendaries 
 brought all the regalia, and deliver'd them to severall Noblemen to beare 
 tefore the King, who met them at the west doore of the Church singing 
 an anthem, to the Quire. Then came the Peers in their robes, and coro- 
 nets in their hands, til his Majestie was plac'd in a throne elevated before 
 the altar. Then the Bishop of London (the Archbishop of Canterbury 
 being sick) went to every side of the throne to present the King to the 
 People, asking if they would have him for their King and do him 
 homage ; at this they shouted 4 times God save King Charles the 
 Second! Then an anthem was sung. Then his Majestie attended by 
 3 Bishops went up to the altar, and he offer'd a pall and a pound of 
 gold. Afterwards he sate downe in another chaire during the sermon, 
 •which was preach'd by Dr. Morley then Bishop of Worcester. After 
 sermon the King tooke his oath before the altar to maintain the Reli- 
 gion, Magna Charta, and Lav/s of the Land. The hymn Veni S. Sp. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 275 
 
 folioVd, and then the Litany by 2 Bishops. Then the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, present but much indispos'd and weake, said Lift up your 
 hearts; at which the King rose up and put off his robes and uppei 
 garments, and was in a waistcoate so opened in divers places that the 
 Archb'p might commodiously anoint him, first in the palmes of his 
 hands, when an anthem was sung and a prayer read ; then his breast 
 and twixt the shoulders, bending of both armes, and lastly on the 
 crowne of the head, with apposite hymns and prayers at each anoynt- 
 ing ; this don, the Deane clos'd and button'd up the wastcoate. Then 
 was a coyfe put on, and the cobbium, syndon, or dalmatic, and over 
 this a supertunic of cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of the same, 
 spurrs, and the sword, a prayer being first said over it by the Arch- 
 bishop on the altar before t'was girt on by the Lord Chamberlaine. 
 Then the armill, mantle, &c. Then the Archbishop plac'd the crowne 
 imperial on the altar pray'd over it, and set it on his Majesties head, at 
 which all the Peers put on their coronets. Anthems and rare musiq, 
 with lutes, viols, trumpets, organs, and voices, were then heard, and 
 the Archbishop put a ring on his Majesties finger. The King next 
 offer'd his sword on the altar, which being redeemed was drawn and 
 borne before him. Then the Archbishop deliver'd him the sceptre with 
 the dove in one hand, and in the other the sceptre with the globe. 
 Then the King kneeling, the Archbishop pronounc'd the blessing. 
 The King then ascending againe his Royal Throne, whilst Te Deum 
 was singing, all the Peeres did their homage, by every one touching his 
 crowne. The Archbishop and rest of the Bishops first kissing the 
 King ; who receiv'd the holy sacrament, and so disrob'd, yet with the 
 crowne imperial on his head, and accompanied with all the Nobility in 
 the former order, he went on foote upon blew cloth, which was spread 
 and reach'd from the West dore of the Abby to Westminster stayres, 
 when he tooke water in a triumphal barge to Whitehall, where was ex- 
 traordinary feasting. 
 
 .24. I presented his Majestiewith his Panegyric' in the Privy Cham- 
 ber, which he was pleas'd to accept most graciously ; I gave copies to 
 the Lord Chancellor and most of the Noblemen who came to me for it. 
 I din'd at the Marques of Ormonds, where was a magnificent feaste 
 and many greate persons. 
 
 I May. I went to Hide Park to take the aire, where was his Majesty 
 and an innumerable appearance of gallants and rich coaches, being 
 now a time of universal festivitie and joy. 
 
 2. I had audience of my Lord Chancellor about my title to Says Court. 
 
 3. I went to see the wonderful! engine for weaving silk stockings^ 
 said to have ben the invention of an Oxford schoUer 40 years since ; 
 and I return'd by Fromantil's the famous clock-maker to see some pen- 
 dules. Monsieur Zulichem being with us. 
 
 ' Viz. a Poe>ii upon his Majesty's Coronation, the 23 of April 1661, being St. George's Day. 
 
276 OPENING OF PARLIAMENT. THE SCOTCH COVENANT BURNT. 
 
 This evening I was with my Lord Brouncker, Sir Robert Murray, 
 Sir Pa. Neill, Monsieur Zuhchem, and Mr. Bull (all of them of our 
 Society and excellent mathematicians), to shew his Majestic, who was 
 present, Saturn's annulus as some thought, but as Zulichem affirm'd 
 with his Ealleus (as that learned gentleman had publish'd), very neere 
 eclips'd by the Moon, neere the Mons Porphyritis ; also Jupiter and 
 Satelites, thro' his Majesty's great telescope, drawing 35 foote ; on 
 which were divers discourses. 
 
 8 May. His Majestie rod in state, with his imperial crowne on, and 
 all the Peeres in their robes, in great pomp to the Parliament now 
 newly chosen (the old one being dissolv'd) ; and that evening declar'd 
 in Council his intention to marry the Infanta of Portugal. 
 
 9. At Sir Rob. Murray's, where I met Dr. Wallis, Professor of Geo- 
 metry in Oxon, where was discourse of several! mathematicall subjects. 
 
 n. My wife presented to his Majesty the Madona she had copied 
 in miniature irom P. Oliver's painting after Raphael, which she wrought 
 with extraordinary pains and judgment. The King was infinitely 
 pleas'd with it, and caus'd it to be plac'd in his cabinet amongst his 
 best paintings. 
 
 13. I heard and saw such exercises at the election of Scholars at 
 Westminster School to be sent to the University, in Latin, Greek, 
 Hebrew, and Arabic, in themes and extemporary verses, as wonderfully 
 astonish'd me in such youths, with such readiness and witt, some of 
 them not above 12 or 13 years of age. Pity it is that what they attaine 
 here so ripely, they either not retain or do not improve more consider- 
 ably when they come to be men, tho' many of them do ; and no lesse 
 is to be blamed their odd pronouncing of Latine, so that out of England 
 none were able to understand or endure it. The Examinants or Posers 
 were. Dr. Duport, Greek Professor at Cambridge ; Dr. Fell, Deane of 
 Christ Church Oxon ; Dr. Pierson, Dr. Alestree Deane of Westmin- 
 ster, and any that would. 
 
 14 May. His Majesty was pleas'd to discourse with me con- 
 cerning several particulars relating to our Society, and the planet 
 Saturn, &c. as he sat at supper in the withdrawing room to his bed- 
 chamber. 
 
 16. I din'd with Mr. Garmus, the Resident from Hamburgh, who 
 continu'd his feast neere 9 whole hours, according to the custome of his 
 country, tho' there was no greate excesse of drinking, no man being 
 oblig'd to take more than he lik'd. 
 
 22. The Scotch Covenant was burnt by the common hangman in 
 divers places in London. Oh prodigious change ! 
 
 29. This was the first Anniversarie appointed by Act of Parliament 
 to be observed as a day of General Thanksgiving for the miraculous 
 Restauration of his Majesty: our Vicar preaching on 118 Psalm 24. re- 
 quiring us to be thankful & rejoice, as indeede we had cause. 
 
•IHE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 277 
 
 4 June. Came Sir Cha. Harbord, his Majesties surveyor, to take an 
 account of what grounds I challeng'd at Says Court. 
 
 27. I saw the Portugal Ambassador at dinner with his Majestic in 
 state, where was excellent musiq. 
 
 2 July. I went to see the New Spring Garden at Lambeth, a pretty 
 contriv'd plantation. 
 
 19. We tried our Diving Bell or engine in the water-dock at Dept- 
 ford, in which our Curator continu'd half an hour under water ; it was 
 made of cast lead, let down with a strong cable. 
 
 August 3. Came my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of his Majestie? 
 household, to visite me. 
 
 9. I tried several experiments on the sensitive plant and humilis, 
 which contracted with the least touch of the sun thro' a burning glasse, 
 tho' it rises and opens onely when it shines on it. 
 
 I first saw the famous Queen Pine ' brought from Barbados and pre- 
 sented to his Majestic ; but the first that were ever seen in England 
 were those sent to Cromwell foure years since. 
 
 I din'd at Mr. Palmer's in Gray's Inn, whose curiosity excell'd in 
 clocks and pendules, especialy one that had innumerable motions, and 
 plaied 9 or 10 tunes on the bells very finely, some of them set in parts, 
 which was very harmonious. It was wound up but once in a quarter. 
 He had also good telescopes and mathematical instruments, choice 
 pictures, and other curiosities. Thence we went to that famous moun- 
 tebank Jo. Punteus. 
 
 Sir Kenelme Digby presented every one of us his Discourse of the 
 Vegetation of Plants ; and Mr. Henshaw, his History of Salt Petre and 
 Gunpowder. I assisted him to procure his place of French Secretary 
 to the King, which he purchas'd of Sir Hen. De Vic. 
 
 I went to that famous physitian Sir Fr. Prujean, who shew'd me his 
 laboratorie, his work-house for turning, and other mechanics ; also many 
 excellent pictures, especialy the Magdalen of Caracci ; and some in- 
 comparable /az^o^^j done in distemper ; he plaied to me likewise on the 
 polythore, an instrument having something of the harp, lute, theorbo, 
 &c. It was a sweete instrument, by none known in England, or describ'd 
 by any author, nor us'd but by this skilfuU and learned Doctor. 
 
 15. I went to Tunbridge Wells, my wife being there for the benefit 
 of her health. Walking about the solitudes, I greately admired at the 
 extravagant turnings, insinuations, and growth of certaine birch trees 
 among the rocks. 
 
 13 Sept. I presented my Fumifugium,' dedicated to his Majesty, 
 who was pleas'd I should pubhsh it by his special commands, being 
 much gratified with it. 
 
 1 At Kensington Palace is a curious picture of King Charles receiving a pine apple from his 
 gardener Mr. Rose, who is presenting it on liis knees. See 1668, August. 
 
 2 This pamphlet having become extremely scarco, was haDxlsomely reprinted for Messrs, 
 Vhite in Fleet Street, in 4to. in 1773. 
 
278 BOAT RACING. DISPUTE OF THE AMBASSADORS. 
 
 18. This day was read our Petition to his Majesty for his Royal 
 Grant authorizing our Society to meet as a Corporation, with severul 
 privileges. 
 
 An exceedingly sickly, wet autumn. 
 
 I Oct. I sail'd this morning with his Majesty in one of his yachts 
 (or pleasure-boats), vessells not known among us til the Dutch E. India 
 Company presented that curious piece to the King, being ^ery excellent 
 sailing vessells. It was on a wager betweene his other new pleasure 
 boate, built frigate like, and one of the Duke of York's ; the wager 
 100/. ; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend and back. The King 
 lost it going, the wind being contrary, but sav'd stakes in returning. 
 There were divers noble persons and lords on board, his Majesty some- 
 times steering himselfe. His barge and kitchen boate attended. I 
 brake fast this morning with the King at return in his smaller vessell, 
 he being pleas'd to take me and onely foure more, who were noblemen, 
 with him ; but din'd in his yatcht, where we all eate together with his 
 Majesty. In this passage he was pleas'd to discourse to me about my 
 book inveighing against the nuisance of the smoke of London and pro- 
 posing expedients how by removing those particulars I mention'd, it 
 might be reform'd ; commanding me to prepare a Bill against the next 
 Session of Parliament, being as he said resolv'd to have something don in 
 it. Then he discours'd tome ofthe improvement of gardens andbuildings, 
 now very rare in England comparatively to other countries. He then 
 commanded me to draw up the matter of fact happening at the bloudy 
 encounter which then had newly happen'd betweene the French and 
 Spanish Ambassadors neere the Tower, contending forprecedency, at the 
 reception of the S weeds Ambassador ; giving me order to consult SirWm. 
 Compton, Master of the Ordnance, to informe me what he knew of it, and 
 with his favourite Sir Cha. Berkley,! captaine of the Duke's life guard, 
 then present with his troope and 3 foote companies ; with some other re- 
 flections and instructions, to be prepar'd with a declaration to take off 
 the reports which went about of his Majestys partiality in the affaire, and 
 of his officers and spectators rudenesse whilst the conflict lasted. So I 
 came home that night, and went next morning to London, where from the 
 Officers of the Tower, Sir Wm. Compton, Sir Cha. Berkeley, and others 
 who were attending at this meeting of the Ambassadors 3 dayes before, 
 having collected what I could, I drew up a narrative in vindication of 
 his Majesty and the carriage of his Officers and standers by. On Thurs- 
 day his Majesty sent one of the pages of the Back Stayres for me to waite 
 on him with my papers in his cabinet, where was present only 
 Sir Henry Bennett^ (Privy Purse), when beginning to read to his 
 Majesty what I had drawn up, by the time I had read halfe a page, came 
 
 1 Afterwards Earl of Falmouth, who was killed by the side of the Duke of York, in the first 
 Dutch war. 
 
 2 Afterwards Secretary of State, Earl of Arlington, and Lord Chamberlain. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 279 
 
 in Mr. Secretary Morice with a large paper, desiring to speake with 
 
 his Majesty, who told him he was now very buisy, and therefore order'd 
 him to come againe some other time ; the Secretary rephed that what he 
 had in his hand was of extraordinary importance, so the King rose up, 
 and commanding me to stay, went aside to a corner of the roome with 
 the Secretary ; after a while the Secretary being dispatch'd, his Majesty 
 returning to me at the table, a letter was brought him from Madame- 
 out of France ; this he read and then bid me proceede from where I 
 left off. This I did til I had ended all the narrative, to his Majestys 
 greate satisfaction ; and after I had inserted one or two more clauses, in 
 which his Majesty instructed me, commanded that it should that night 
 be sent to the Post-house directed to the Lord Ambassador at Paris (the 
 Earle of St. Alban's) and then at leasure to prepare him a copy 
 which he would publish. This I did, and immediately sent my papers 
 to the Secretary of State, with his Majesty's expresse command of dis- 
 patching them that night for France. Before I went out of his Majestys 
 closet, he cal'd me back to shew me some ivorie statues, and other 
 curiosities that I had not seene before. 
 
 3. Next evening, being in the withdrawing roome adjaining the bed- 
 chamber, his Majesty espying me came to me from a greate crowde of 
 noblemen standing neere the fire, and ask'd me if I had don ; and told 
 me he fear'd it might be a little too sharp, on second thoughts, for he 
 had that morning spoken with the French Ambassador, who it seemes 
 had palliated the matter and was very tame, and therefore directed me 
 where I should soften a period or two before it was publish'd (as after- 
 wards it was '). This night also he spake to me to give him a sight of 
 what was sent, and to bring it to him in his bedchamber ; which I did, 
 and receiv'd it againe from him at dinner next day. By Saturday hav- 
 ing finish'd it with all his Majestys notes, the King being gon abroad, I 
 sent the papers to Sir Hen. Bennett (Privy Purse and a great favourite), 
 and slip'd home, being myselfe much indispos'd and harrass'd with 
 going about,. and sitting up to write. 
 
 19. Oct. I went to London to visite my Lord of BristoU, having first 
 ben with Sir John Denham (his Majesties surveyor) to consult with 
 him about the placing of his palace at Greenewich, which I would have 
 had built between the river and the Queenes house, so as a large 
 square cutt should have let in the Thames like a bay ; but Sir John 
 was for setting it on piles at the very brink of the water, which I 
 did not assent to, and so came away, knowing Sir John to be a 
 better poet than architect, tho' he had Mr. Webb (Inigo Jones's man) 
 to assist him. 
 
 1 Notwithstanding this positive assertion, it is very extraordinary that it has never been in- 
 aerted in any Library or Auction Catalogue that a gentleman of the greatest research (Mr, 
 Bindley) ever saw. Perhaps it was recalled. 
 
28o THE ROYAL SOCIETY. AT THE PLAY. MY TRANSLATIONS. 
 
 29. I saw the Lord Maior' passe in his water triumph to Westmin- 
 ster, being the first solemnity of this nature after 20 yeares. 
 
 2 Nov. Came Sir Hen. Bennet, since Lord Arlington, to visite me, 
 and to acquaint me that his Majesty would do me the honor to come 
 and see my garden, but it then being late 'twas deferr'd. 
 
 3. One Mr. Breton'^ preach'd his probation Sermon at our Parish 
 Church, and indeede made a most excellent discourse on i John 29 of 
 God's free grace to penitents, so that I could not but recommend him 
 to the patron. 
 
 10. In the afternoone preach'd at the Abby Dr. Basire, that greate 
 travailler, or rather French Apostle, who had been planting the Church 
 of England in divers parts of the Levant and Asia. He shew'd that 
 ."he Church of England was for purity of doctrine, substance, decency, 
 and beauty, the most perfect under Heaven ; that England was the 
 very land of Goshen. 
 
 11. I was so idle as to go see a play call'd 'Love and Honour,'. — 
 Din'd at Arundel House; and that evening discours'd with his Majestic 
 about shipping, in which he was exceeding skilful!. 
 
 15. I din'd with the Duke of Ormond, who told me there were no 
 moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and that but in one county ; 
 but it was a mistake that spiders would not live there, only they were 
 not poysonous. Also that they frequently took salmon with dogs. 
 
 16. I presented my Translation of ' Naudaus concerning Libraries' 
 to my Lord Chancellor, but it was miserably false printed. 
 
 17. Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of the ' Florentine Council,' and a 
 most eloquent man and admirable Grecian, preached on 6 Cant. 13. 
 celebrating the retume and restauration of the Church and King. 
 
 20. At the Royall Society Sir William Petty propos'd divers things 
 for the improvement of shipping, a versatile keele that should be on 
 hinges, and concerning sheathing ships with thin lead. 
 
 24. This night his Majesty fell into discourse with me concerning 
 bees, &c. 
 
 26. I saw Hamlet Prince of Denmark played, but now the old plays 
 began to disgust this refined age, since his Majesties being so long 
 abroad. 
 
 28. I din'd at Chiffinch's house-warming in St. James's Park ; he 
 was his Majesty's closet keeper, and had his new house full of good 
 pictures, &c. There din'd with us Russell, Popish Bishop of Cape 
 Verde, who was sent out to negotiate his Majesties match with the In- 
 fanta of Portugal after the Ambassador was return'd. 
 
 29. I din'd at the Countesse of Peterborows, and went that evening 
 
 1 Sir John Frederick. The pageant for this day was called 'London's Triumph,' at the 
 Charges of the Grocers Company. By John Tatham. 
 
 2 He obtained the Living. 
 
 .t A Tragi-Comedy by William Davenant ; the performance appears to have been in the 
 morning. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 28 1 
 
 to Parson Greene's House with my Lord Mordaunt, with whom I staid 
 that night. 
 
 I December. I went to take leave of my Lo. Peterborow going 
 no;>r to Tangier, which was to be delivered to the English on the 
 match with Portugal. 
 
 3. By universal suffrage of our philosophic assembly an order was 
 made and register'd that I should receive their public thanks for the 
 honourable mention I made of them by the name of Royal Society in 
 my Epistle dedicatory to the Lord Chancellor before my Traduction of 
 Naudeus. Too great an honor for a trifle. 
 
 4. I had much discourse with the Duke of York concerning strange 
 cures, he affirmed of a woman who swallow'd a whole ear of barley, 
 which work'd out at her side. I told him of the knife swallow'd^ and 
 the pins. 
 
 I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verde now going in the Fleet to 
 bring over our new Queene. 
 
 7. I din'd at Arundel House, the day when the greate contest in 
 Parliament was concerning the restoring the Duke of Norfolk ; however 
 'twas carried for him. I also presented my little trifle of Sumptuary 
 Laws, intitl'd ' Tyrannus ' [or ' The Mode.'] 
 
 14. I saw otter hunting with the King, and killed one. 
 
 16. I saw a French Comedy acted at White-hall. 
 
 20. The Bishop of Glocester ^ preached at the Abby at the funeral 
 of the Bishop of Hereford, brother to the Duke of Albemarle. It was 
 a decent solemnity. There was a silver mitre with episcopal robes, 
 born by the Herauld before the herse, which was followed by the Duke 
 his brother, and all the Bishops with divers noblemen. 
 
 23. I heard an Italian play and sing to the guittar with extraordi- 
 nary skill before the Duke. 
 
 1662, I Jan. I went to London, invited to the solemn foolerie of the 
 Prince de la Grange at Lincoln's Inn, where came the King, Duke, &c. 
 It began with a grand masque, and a formal pleading before the mock 
 Princes, Grandees, Nobles, and Knights of the Sunn. He had his 
 Lord Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, and other Royal Officers, 
 gloriously clad and attended. It ended in a magnificent banquet. 
 One Mr. Lort was the young spark who maintain'd the pageantry. 
 
 6 Jan. This evening, according to costome, his Majesty open'd the 
 rcvells of that night by throwing the dice himselfe in the privy cham- 
 ber, where was a table set on purpose, and lost his 100/. (The yeare 
 before he won 1500/.) The ladies also plaied very deepe. I came away 
 when the Duke of Ormond had won about 1000/. and left them still at 
 
 1 This refers to the Dutchman, and to an extraordinary case, contained in a "miraculoufl 
 cure of the Prussian Swallow Knife, &c. by Dan. Lakin, P.C." quarto, London, 1642, with a 
 wood cut representing the object himself and the size of the knife. 
 
 a Dr. William Nicholson. 
 
282 GAMBLING AT COURT. LONDON SMOKE. SOLEMN FAST. 
 
 passage, cards, &c. At other tables, both there and at the Groom- 
 porter's, observing the wicked folly and monstrous excesse of passion 
 amongst some loosers ; sorry I am that such a wretched costome as 
 play to that excesse should be countenanc'd in a Court which ought to 
 be an example of virtue to the rest of the kingdome. 
 
 9. I saw acted ' The 3rd Part of the Siege of Rhodes.' In this acted 
 the faire and famous comedian call'd Roxalana from the part she per- 
 form'd ; and I think it was the last, she being taken to be the Earle ot 
 Oxford's Misse (as at this time they began to call lewd women.) It was 
 in recitativa musiq. 
 
 10. Being call'd into his Majesty's closet when Mr. Cooper, the rare 
 limner, was crayoning of the King's face and head, to make the stamps 
 by for the new mill'd money now contriving, I had the honour to hold 
 the candle whilst it was doing, he choosing the night and candle-light 
 for the better finding out the shadows. During this his Majesty dis- 
 cours'd with me on several things relating to painting and graving. 
 
 II Jan. I din'd at Arundel House, where I heard excellent musiq 
 perform'd by the ablest masters both French and English, on theorbos, 
 viols, organs, and voices, as an exercise against the coming of the 
 Queene, purposely compos'd for her chapeU. Afterwards my Lord 
 Aubignie (her Majesty's Almoner to be) shew'd us his elegant lodging 
 and his wheele-chaire for ease and motion, with divers other curiosities; 
 especialy a kind of artificial glasse or purcelan adorn'd with relievos of 
 paste, hard and beautifull. Lord Aubignie (brother to the Duke of 
 Lennox) was a person of good sense, but was wholly abandon'd to ease 
 and effeminacy. 
 
 I receiv'd of Sir Peter Ball, the Queene's Attorney, a draught of an 
 Act against the nuisance of the smoke of London, to be reform'd by 
 removing severall trades which are the cause of it, and indanger the 
 health of the King and his people. It was to have ben offer'd to the 
 Parliament as his Majestie commanded. 
 
 12. At St. James's Chapell preach'd, or rather harangu'd, the famous 
 orator Monsieur Morus,^ in French. There was present the King, 
 Duke, French Ambassador, Lo. Aubignie, Earle of Bristol, and a world 
 of Roman Catholics, drawne thither to hear this eloquent Protestant. 
 
 15 Jan. There was a general fast thro' the whole nation, and now 
 relebrated at London, to avert God's heavy judgments on this land. 
 There had fallen greate raine without any frost or seasonable cold, not 
 only in England, but in Sweden, and the most Northern parts, being 
 here neere as warme as at midsommer in some yeares. 
 
 This solemn fast was held for the House of Commons at St. Margarets. 
 Dr. Reeves, Dean of Windsor, preach'd on 7 Joshua 12. shewing how 
 the neglect of exacting justice on offenders (by which he insinuated 
 
 1 Probably the famous Alexander Moms (the antagonist of Miltcn) who wa* here in the 
 year 1662. He was a very eloquent and much-admired preachftr. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 283 
 
 such of the old King's murderers as were yet reprieved and in the 
 Tower) was a maine cause of God's punishing a land. He brought in \ 
 that of the Gibeonites as well as Achan and others, concluding with an - \ 
 eulogie of the Parliament for their loyaltie in restoring the Bishops and 
 Cleargie and vindicating the Church from sacrilege. 
 
 16. Having notice of the Duke of York's intention to visit my poore 
 habitation and garden this day, I return'd, when he was pleas'd to do 
 me that honor of his owne accord, and to stay some time viewing such 
 things as I had to entertaine his curiosity. Afterwards he caus'd me 
 to dine with him at the Treasurer of the Navy's house, and to sit with 
 him cover'd at the same table. There were with his Highness the 
 Duke of Ormond and several lords. Then they view'd some of my 
 grounds about a project for a receptacle for ships to be moor'd in, which 
 was laied aside as a fancy of Sir Nicholas Crisp. After this 1 accom- 
 panied the Duke to an East India vessell that lay at Blackwall, where 
 we had entertainment of several curiosities. Amongst other spirituous 
 drinks, as punch, &c. they gave us Canarie that had ben carried to and 
 brought from the Indies, which was indeede incomparably good. I 
 return'd to London with his highnesse. This night was acted before 
 his Majesty ' The Widow,' a lewd play. 
 
 18. I came home to be private a httle, not at all affecting the life 
 and the hurry of Court. 
 
 24. His Majesty entertain'd me with his intentions of building his 
 Palace of Greenewich, and quite demolishing the old one ; on which I 
 declar'd my thoughts. 
 
 25. I dined with the Trinity Company at their house, that Corpo- 
 ration being by charter fixed at Deptford. 
 
 3 February. I went to Clielsey to see Sir Arthur George's house. 
 II. I saw a comedy acted before the Dutchesse of York at the 
 Cockpit. The King was not at it. 
 
 17. I went with my Lord of Bristoll to see his house at Wimbledon," 
 newly bought of the Queene Mother, to help contrive the garden after 
 the moderne. It is a delicious place for prospect and the thicketts, but 
 the soile cold and weeping clay. Returned to London that evening with 
 Sir Henry Bennet. 
 
 This night was buried in Westminster Abby the Queene of Bohemia,' 
 after all her sorrows and afflictions being come to die in the arms of 
 her nephew the King : also this night and the next day fell such a storm 
 of hail, thunder and lightning, as never was seene the like in any man's 
 memorie, especialy the tempest of wind, being South West, which sub- 
 verted besides huge trees, many houses, innumerable chimnies (amongst 
 
 lit came afterwards to Sarah Duchess of Marlborough, who built a new house there, burnt 
 down a few years since. Now belonging to Earl Spencer, who has built a smaller house. 
 There are two scarce and curious views of the old house, engraved by Winstanley. 
 
 2 Elizabeth Electress Palatine, daughter of James I. a woman of excellent understanding 
 •ad most amiable disposition. 
 
284 LAMENTABLE FIRES. MARQUIS OF ARGYLE. 
 
 Others that of my parlour at Sayes Court), and made such havoc at land 
 and sea that severall perish'd on both. Divers lamentable fires were 
 also kindl'd at this time, so exceedingly was God's hand against this 
 ungrateful and vicious Nation and Court. 
 
 20. I return 'd home to repaire my house, miserably shatter'd by the 
 late tempest. 
 
 March 24. I returned home with my whole family, which had ben 
 most part of the winter since October at London in lodgings neere the 
 Abby of Westminster. 
 
 6 April. Being of the Vestry, in the aftemoone we order'd that the 
 Communion Table should be set as usual altar-wise, with a decent raile 
 before it, as before the Rebellion. 
 
 17 April. The young Marquis of Argyle, whose turbulent father was 
 executed in Scotland, came to see my garden. He seem'd to be a 
 man of parts. 
 
 7 May. I waited on Prince Rupert to our Assembly, where were 
 tried severall experiments in Mr. Boyle's vacuum. A man thrusting in 
 his arme upon exhaustion of the aire had his flesh immediately swelled 
 so as the bloud was neare bursting the veines: he drawing it oute we 
 found it all speckled. 
 
 14. To London, being chosen one of the Commissioners for reform- 
 ing the buildings, wayes, streetes, and incumbrances, and regulating the 
 hackney coaches in the Citty of London, taking my oath before my 
 L,:ird Chancellor, and then went to his Majesty's Surveyor's office in 
 Scotland Yard about naming and establishing officers, adjourning till 
 the i6th, when I went to view how St. Martin's Lane might be made 
 more passable into the Strand. There were divers Gentlemen of quality 
 in this Commission. 
 
 2^5. I went this evening to London, in order to our journey to 
 
 Hampton Court to see the new Queene, who having landed at Ports- 
 mouth had ben married to the King a weeke before by the Bishop of 
 London. 
 
 30. The Queene ariv'd with a traine of Portuguese ladies in their 
 monstrous fardingals or guard-infantas, their complexions olivader' 
 and sufficiently unagreeable. Her Majesty in the same habit, her fore- 
 top long and turn'd aside very strangely. She was yet of the hand- 
 somest countenance of all the rest, and tho' low of stature pretily shaped, 
 languishing and excellent eyes, her teeth wronging her mouth by stick- 
 ing a little too far out ; for the rest lovely enough. 
 
 31. I saw the Queene at dinner ; the Judges came to compliment 
 her arival, and after them the Duke of Ormond brought me to kisse 
 her hand. 
 
 ^ Of a dark olive complexion. It has been noticed in other accounts that the Queen'f 
 Porluguese Ladies of Honour who came over with her were uncommonly ill-favoured and 
 disagreeable in their appearance. See Fairthom's curious print of her Majesty in the costume 
 here described. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 253 S 
 
 2 June. The Lord Mayor and Aldermen made their addresses to the 
 Queene, presenting her ;£.iooo in gold. Now saw I her Portuguese 
 iadies, and the Guarda-damas or Mother of her maids,' and the old 
 Knight, a lock of whose haire quite cover'd the rest of his bald pate, 
 bound on by a thred, very oddly. I saw the rich gondola sent to his 
 Majesty from the State of Venice ; but it was not comparable for swift- 
 nesse to our common wherries, tho' manag'd by Venetians. 
 
 4. Went to visite the Earle of Bristol! at Wimbledon. 
 
 8 June. I saw her Majesty at supper privately in her bed-chamber. 
 
 9. I heard the Queene's Portugal musiq, consisting of pipes, harps, 
 and very ill voices. 
 
 Hampton Court is as noble and uniforme a pile, and as capacious as 
 any Gotiq architecture can have made it. There is incomparable furni- 
 ture in it, especially hangings design'd by Raphael,very rich with gold; 
 also many rare pictures, especially the Ccesarian Triumphs of Andr. 
 Mantegna, formerly the Duke of Mantua's ; of the tapessrys I believe 
 the world can shew nothing nobler of the kind than the storys of 
 Abraham and Tobit. The gallery of homes is very particular for the 
 vast beames of staggs, elks, antelopes, &c. The Queene's bed was an 
 embrodery of silver on crimson velvet, and cost ^.8000, being a pre- 
 sent made by the States of Holland when his Majesty returned, and 
 had formerly ben given by them to our King's sister the Princesse of 
 Orange, and being bought of her againe was now presented to the 
 King. The greate looking-glasse and toilet of beaten and massive gold 
 was given by the Queene Mother. The Queene brought over with her 
 from Portugal such Indian cabinets as had never before ben seene here. 
 The greate hall is a most magnificent roome. The chapell-roof excel- 
 lently fretted and gilt. I was also curious to visite the wardrobe and 
 tents and other fijrniture of state. The park formerly a flat naked piece 
 of ground, now planted with sweete rows of lime trees ; and the canall 
 for water now neere perfected ; also the hare park. In the garden is a 
 rich and noble fountaine, with syrens, statues, &c. cast in copper by 
 FaneUi, but no plenty of water. The cradle-walk of home beame in 
 the garden is, for the perplexed twining of the trees, very observable. 
 There is a parterre which they call Paradise, in which is a pretty ban- 
 quetting-house set over a cave or cellar. All these gardens might be 
 exceedingly improved, as being too narrow for such a palace. 
 
 10. I returned to London, and presented my History of Chalco- 
 ^Taphie (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our Society. 
 
 19 June. I went to Albury, to visite Mr. Hen. Howard soone after 
 he had procured the dukedom to be restor'd. This gentleman had now 
 compounded a debt of ;rS.20o,ooo, contracted by his grandfather. I 
 was much oblig'd to that greate virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, 
 with whom I staled a fortnight 
 
 ' A lady had this title in the reign of King Geor^i^e 111. 
 
286 THE QUEENE MOTHER. INCORPORATION OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY. 
 
 2 July. We hunted and kill'd a buct in the park, Mr. Howard in- 
 viting most of the gentlemen of the country neere him. 
 
 3. My wife met me at Woodcott whither Mr. Howard accompanied 
 me to see my son John, who had ben much brought up amongst Mr. 
 Howard's children at Arundel House, 'til for feare of their perverting 
 him in the Catholic religion, I was forced to take him home. 
 
 8. To London, to take leave of the Duke and Dutchesse of Ormond, 
 going then into Ireland with extraordinary retinue. 
 
 1 3. Spent some time with the Lord Chancellor, where I had discourse 
 with my Lord Willoughby, Governor of Barbados, concerning divers 
 particulars of that colonic. 
 
 28. His Majesty going to sea to m.eet the Queene Mother, now 
 coming againe for England, met with such ill weather as greately en- 
 danger'd him. I went to Greenewich, to wait on the Queene now landed. 
 
 30. To London, where was a meeting about Charitable Uses, and 
 particularly to enquire how the Citty had dispos'd of the revenues of 
 Gressham College, and why the salaries of the professors there were no 
 better improv'd. I was on this commission, with divers Bishops and 
 Lords of the Council, but little was the progresse we could make. 
 
 31. I sate with the Commissioners about reforming the buildings 
 and streetes of London, and we ordered the paving of the way from 
 St. James's North, which was a quagmire, and also of the Hay-market 
 about Piqudillo [Piccadilly], and agreed upon instructions to be printed 
 and published for the better keeping the streetes cleane. 
 
 I Aug. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles, Edward, Bernard, 
 Philip' now the Queens Almoner, (all brothers of the Duke of Norfolk 
 still in Italy) came with a greate traine and din'd with me ; Mr. H. 
 Howard leaving with me his eldest and youngest sons Henry and 
 Thomas for three or four days, my son John having ben sometime 
 bred up in their father's house. 
 
 4. Came to see me the old Countesse of Devonshire," with that 
 excellent and worthy person, my Lord, her sonn, from Rowhampton. 
 
 5. To London, and next day to Hampton Court about my purchase, 
 and took leave of Sir R. Fanshawenow Ambassador to Portugal. 
 
 13. Our Charter being now passed under the broad scale, constitu- 
 ting us a Corporation under the name of The Royal Society for the 
 improvement of naturall knowledge by experiment, was this day read, 
 and was all that was done this afternoone, being very large. 
 
 14. I sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the Lord Maior 
 and others of the Mercers Company being summon'd to answer some 
 
 1 Since Cardinal at Rome. 
 
 ^ Christian Countess of Devonshire. She was of considerable celebrity for her devotion, 
 hospitality, her great care in the management of her son's affairs, and as a patroness ot the 
 wits of the age who frequently met at her house : also for her loyalty and correspondence to 
 promote the Restoration. King Charles II. frequently visited her at this place with tho 
 l^ueen Mother and the Royal Family. There is a life of this lady written by Mr. Pomfret. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 287 
 
 complaints of the professors grounded on a cJause in the will of Sii 
 Thomas Gressham the founder. 
 
 This afternoone the Queene Mother with the Earle of SL Alban's 
 and many greate ladies and persons, was pleas'd to honor my poore villa 
 with her presence, and to accept of a collation. She was exceedingly 
 pleas'd and stay'd till very late in the evening. 
 
 15. Came my Lord Chancellor (the Earle of Clarendon) and his lady, 
 his purse and mace borne before him, to visit me. They were likewise 
 collation'd with us, and were very merry. They had all ben our old 
 acquaintance in exile, and indeed this greate person had ever ben my 
 friend. His sonn Lord Cornebery was here too. 
 
 17 Aug. Being the Sonday when the Common Prayer Booke re- 
 formed and ordered to be used for the future, was appointed to be read, 
 and the solemn League and Covenant to be abjured by all the incum- 
 oents of England under penalty of looseing their livings ; our Vicar 
 read it this morning. 
 
 20. There were strong guards in the City this day, apprehending 
 some tumults, many of the Presbyterian Ministers not conforming. I 
 dined with the Vice Chamberlaine, and then went to see the Queene 
 Mother, who was pleas'd to give me many thanks for the entertainment 
 she receiv'd at my house, when she recounted to me many observable 
 stories of the sagacity of some dogs she formerly had. ^.- — 
 
 21. I was admitted and then sworne one of the Council of the Royal 
 Society, being nominated in his Majesty's original grant to be of this 
 Council for the regulation of the Society, and making laws and statutes 
 conducible to its establishment and progresse, for which we now set 
 apart every Wednesday morning till they were all finished. Lord 
 Visct. Brouncker (that excellent mathematician) was also by his Majesty 
 our Founder nominated our first President. The King gave us the 
 armes of England to be borne in a canton in our armes, and sent us a 
 mace of silver gilt of the same fashion and bigness as those carried 
 before his Majesty, to be borne before our President on meeting dales. 
 It was brought by Sir G. Talbot, Master of his Majestys Jewel-house. 
 
 22. I din'd with my Lord Brouncker and Sir Robt. Morray, and 
 then went to consult about a new-model'd ship at Lambeth, the 
 intention being to reduce that art to as certaine a method as any other 
 part of architecture. 
 
 23 Aug. I was spectator of the most magnificent triumph that ever 
 floated on the Thames ; ' considering the innumerable boates and 
 vessells, dress'd and adorn'd with all imaginable pomp, but above all 
 the thrones, arches, pageants^ and other representations, stately barges 
 
 1 An account of this solemnity was published in ' Aqua Triumphalis ' ; being a true relation 
 of the honourable City of London entertaining their sacred Majesties upon the River of 
 Thames, and welcoming them from Hampton Court to White-hall, &c. Engraved by Joho 
 Tathamj' folio, 1662. 
 
28S AQUATIC TRIUMPH. COUNCI I, OF ROYAL SOCIETY AT COURT. 
 
 of the Loi-d Maior and Companies, with various inventions, musiq and 
 peales of ordnance both from the vessels and the shore, going to meete 
 and conduct the new Queene from Hampton Court to White-hall, at 
 the first time of her coming to tovvne. In my opinion it far exceeded all 
 the Venetian Bucentoras, &c. on the Ascension, when they go to espouse 
 the Adriatic. His Majestie and the Queene came in anantiq-shap'dopen 
 vessell, cover'd with a state or canopy of cloth of gold, made in form 
 of a cupola, supported with high Corinthian pillars, wreath'd with 
 flowers, festoons, and garlands. I was in our new-built vessell, sailing 
 amongst them. 
 
 29. The Council and Fellows of the Royal Society went in a body 
 to White-hall to acknowledge his Majestys royal grace in granting our 
 charter, and vouchsafing to be himselfe our Founder ; when the Presi- 
 dent made an eloquent speech, to whichhis Majesty gave a gracious reply, 
 and we all kiss'd his hand. Next day we went in like manner with our 
 addresse to my Lo. Chancellor, who had much promoted our Patent ; 
 he receiv'd us with extraordinary favour. In the evening I went to the 
 Queene Mother's Court, and had much discourse with her. 
 
 I Sept. Being invited by Lo. Berkley, I went to Durdans, Epsom, 
 where din'd his Majestie, the Queene, Duke, Dutchesse, Prince Rupert, 
 Prince Edward, and aboundance of Noblemen. I went after dinnerto 
 visit my brother of Woodcot, my sister having ben deliver'd of a son a 
 little before, but who had now ben two days dead. 
 
 4 Sept. Commission for charitable uses, my Lord Maior and Alder- 
 men being againe summon'd, and the improvements of Sir Tho. 
 Gressham's estate examin'd. There were present the Bp. of London, 
 the Lord Chief Justice, and the King's Attorney. 
 
 6. Dined with me Sir Edward Walker, Garter King at Armes, Mr. 
 Slingsby, Master of the Mint, and severall others. 
 
 17. We now resolv'd that the armes of the Society should be, a 
 held Argent, with a canton of the armes of England ; the supporters two 
 talbots Argent ; Crest, an eagle Or holding a shield with the like armes 
 of England, viz. 3 lions. The words Nullius in verba. It was pre- 
 sented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders given to Garter 
 King at Armes, to passe the diploma of their office for it. 
 
 20. I presented a petition to his Majesty about my "5wn concerns, 
 and afterwards accompanied hira to Mons. Febure, his chymist, (and 
 who had formerly ben my master in Paris) to see his accurate prepara- 
 tion for the composing Sir Walter Raleigh's rare cordial ; he made a 
 learned discourse before his Majesty in French on each ingredient. 
 
 27. Came to visit me Sir Geo. Savell,^ grandson to the learned Sir 
 Hen. Savell, who published St. Chrysostome. Sir Geo. was a witty 
 gentleman, if not a little too prompt and daring. 
 
 3 Oct I was invited to the CoUedge of Physitians, where Dr. 
 
 1 Aftcru^aTiis tKc celebrated Marquis of Halifax. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 289 
 
 Meret, a learned man and Library Keeper, sheVd me the Library, 
 Theater for Anatomic, and divers natural curiosities ; the statue and 
 epigraph under it of that renowned physitian Dr. Harvey, discoverer 
 of the circulation of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sir Wm. 
 Paddy's, and other pictures of men famous in their faculty. 
 
 Visited Mr. Wright, a Scotsman, who had liv'd long at Rome and 
 was esteem'd a good painter. The pictures of the Judges at Guild-hall 
 are of his hand, and so are some pieces in White-hall, as the roofe in 
 his Majestys old bed-chamber, being Astrea, the St. Catherine, and a 
 chimney-piece in the Queen's privy-chamber ; but his best, in my 
 opinion, is Lacy the famous Roscius or comedian, whom he has painted 
 in three dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian minister, and a Scotch 
 highlander in his plaid. It is in his Majestys dining-room at Windsor ; 
 He had at his house an excellent collection, especialy that small piece 
 of Corregio, Scotus of de la Marca, a designe of Paulo, and above all 
 those mines of Polydore, with some good achates and medailles, espe- 
 cialy a Scipio, and a Caesar's head of gold. 
 
 15. I this day deliver'd my Discourse concerning Forest Trees to the 
 Society, upon occasion of certain queries sent to us by the Commissioners 
 of his Majesty's Navy, being the first booke that was printed by order 
 of the Society, and by their Printer, since it was a Corporation. 
 
 16. I saw ' Volpone' acted at Court before their Majesties. 
 
 21. To the Queene Mother's Court, where her Majesty related to 
 us divers passages of her escapes during the Rebellion and the Warrs 
 in England. 
 
 28 Oct. To Court in the evening, where the Queene Mother, the 
 Queene Consort, and his Majesty, being advertis't* of some disturbance, 
 forbore to go to the Lord Maior's shew and fe?.jt appointed next day, 
 the new Queene not having yet seen that triumph. 
 
 29. Was my Lo. Maior's ' shew, with a number of sumptuous 
 pageants, speeches, and verses. I was standing in an house in Cheape- 
 side against the place prepar'd for their Majesties. The Prince and 
 heire of Denmark was there, but not our King. There were also the 
 maids of honor. I went to court this evening, and had much discourse 
 with Dr. Basiers,'' one of his Majesty's chaplain's, the greate traveller, 
 who shew'd me the syngraphs and original subscriptions of divers 
 Eastern Patriarchs and Asian Churches to our Confession. 
 
 4 Nov. I was invited to the wedding of the daughter of Sir Geo. 
 Carterat (the Treasurer of the Navy and King's Vice-Chamberlain), 
 married to Sir N. Slaning, Kt. of the Bath ; by the Bishop of London 
 in the Savoy Chapell ; after which was an extraordinary feast. 
 
 5. The Council of the R. Society met to amend the Statutes, and 
 
 ^ Sir John Robinson, Knt. and Bart. Clothworker. The pageant on this occasion was called 
 * X.ondon's Triumph, at the Charge of the Clothworlcers Company. By John Tatham.' 
 ' Isaac Basire. See account of him in Wood's " Athense." 
 
 19 
 
ago PUBLICATION OF MY SILVA. FEASTED AT WESTMINSTER- 
 
 dined together : afterwards meeting at Gressham College, where was a 
 discourse suggested by me concerning planting his Majestys Forest of 
 Deane with oake, now so much exhausted of the choicest ship-timber 
 in the world. 
 
 20. Dined with the Comptroller Sir Hugh Pollard; afterwards saw 
 ■* The Young Admiral ' ' acted before the King. 
 
 21. Spent the evening at Court, Sir Kenelm Digby giving me greate 
 thanks for my Sylva. 
 
 27. Went to London to see the entrance of the Russian Ambassador, 
 whom his Majesty order'd to be received with much state, the Emperor 
 not only having ben kind to his Majesty in his distress, but banishing 
 all commerce with our Nation during the Rebellion. 
 
 First the Citty Companies and Train'd Bands were all in their sta- 
 tions: his Majesty's Army and Guards in greate order. His Excellency 
 came in a very rich coach, with some of his chiefe attendants ; many 
 of the rest on horseback, clad in their vests after the Eastern manner, 
 rich furrs, caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawkes, furrs, 
 teeth, bows, &c. It was a very magnificent shew. 
 
 I din'd with the Master of the Mint, where was old Sir Ralph Free- 
 man2 ; passing my evening at the Queene Mother's Court, at night saw 
 acted ' The Committee,' a ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, where the 
 mimic Lacy acted the Irish Footeman to admiration. 
 
 30. St Andrews day. Invited by the Deane of Westminster^ to 
 his consecration dinner and ceremony, on his being made Bishop of 
 Worcester. Dr. Bolton preach'd in the Abby Church ; then foUow'd 
 the consecration by the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, 
 Salisbury, &c. After this was one of the most plentifuU and magnifi- 
 cent dinners that in my life I ever saw ; it cost neere ^.600 as I was 
 inform'd. Here were the Judges, Nobility, Clergy, and Gentlemen in- 
 numerable, this Bishop being universally belov'd for his sweete and 
 gentle disposition. He was author of those Characters which go under 
 the name of Blount*. He translated his late Majesty's Icon into 
 Latine, was Clearke of his Closet, Chaplaine, Deane of Westminster, 
 and yet a most humble, meeke, but cheerfuU man, an excellent scholar, 
 ^nd rare preacher. I had the honour to be loved by him. He married 
 me at Paris, during his Majesties and the Churches exile. When I 
 tooke leave of him he brought me to the Cloysters in his episcopal 
 habit. I then went to the evening prayers at White-hall, where I pass'd 
 that evening. 
 
 I Dec Having seen the strange and wonderful dexterity of the 
 sliders on the new Canal in St. James's Park, perform'd before their 
 Majesties by divers gentlemen and others with Scheets after the man- 
 
 1 A Tragi-Comedy by James Shirley. 2 Of Betchworth in Surrey. 
 
 3 Dr. John Earle. Translated afterwards to Salisbury. 
 
 4 These Characters were several times printed, and are still read with some interest. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 291 
 
 ner of the Hollanders, with what swiftnesse they passe, how suddainly 
 they stop in full carriere upon the ice, I went home by water, but not 
 without exceeding difificultie, the Thames being frozen, greate flakes 
 of ice incompassing our boate. 
 
 17. I saw acted before the King 'The Law against Lovers.' ' 
 
 21. One of his Majesty's Chaplains preach'd, after which, in- 
 stead of the ancient, grave, and solemn wind musiq accompanying the 
 organ, was introduced a concert of 24 violins betweene every pause, 
 after the French fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern or play- 
 house than a church. This was the first time of change, and now we 
 no more heard the cornet which gave life to the organ, that instrument 
 quite left off in which the English were so skillfull. I din'd at Mr. 
 Povey's, where I talk'd with Cromer, a greate musician. 
 
 23. I went with Sir George Tuke to hear the Comedians con and 
 repeate his new comedy, ' The Adventures of 5 Hours,' a play whose 
 plot was taken out of the famous Spanish poet Calderon. 
 
 27. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph. 
 
 29. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambassador which was with 
 extraordinary state, his retinue being numerous, all clad in vests of 
 severall colours, with buskins after the Eastern manner ; their caps of 
 furr ; tunicks richly embrodred with gold and pearls made a glorious 
 shew. The King being seated under a canopie in the Banquetting 
 house, the Secretary of the Embassy went before the Ambassador in a 
 grave march, holding up his master's letters of credence in a crimson 
 taffeta scarfe before his forehead. The Ambassador then deliver'd it 
 with a profound reverence to the King, who gave it to our Secretary of 
 State ; it was written in a long and lofty style. Then came in the 
 present, borne by 165 of his retinue, consisting of mantles and other 
 large pieces lined with sable, black fox and ermine ; Persian carpets, 
 the ground cloth of gold and velvet ; hawks, such as they sayd never 
 came the like ; horses said to be Persian ; bowes and arrows, c&c. These 
 borne by so long a traine rendered it very extraordinary. Wind musiq 
 pla/d all the while in the galleries above. This finish'd, the Ambassa- 
 dor was convey'd by the Master of the Ceremonies to York House, 
 where he was treated with a banquet which cost ^200 as I was assur'd.^ 
 
 1 A Tragi-Comedy by Sir William Davenant, taken almost entirely from Shakespeare's 
 *Mea5ure for Measure,' and 'Much Ado about Nothing,' blended together. 
 
 2The Czar of Muscovy sent an Embassador to compliment K. Cha. II. on his Restoration. 
 The K. sent the Earl of Carlisle as his Embassador to Moscow, to desire the re-establishment 
 of the antient privileges of the English Merchants at Archangel, which had ben taken away 
 by the Czar, who abhorring the murder of the K's. father accused them as favorers of it. 
 But by the means of the Czar's ministers, his lordship was very ill received, and met with "what 
 he deemed affronts, and had no success as to his demands, so that at coming away he refused 
 the presents sent him by the Czar. The Czar sent an Ambassador to England to complain of 
 Lord Carlisle's conduct, but his lordship vindicated himself so well, that the King told the 
 Embassador he saw no reason to condemn his lordship's conduct.' Relation of this Embassie 
 >y G. M. authenticated by Lord Carlisle, printed 1669. 
 
292 BALLS AT COURT. THE KING DAUNCES. GREAT MASQ. 
 
 1663. 7 Jan. At night I saw the Ball, in which his Majesty daunc'd 
 with several great ladys. 
 
 8. I went to see my kinsman Sir Geo. Tuke's comedy acted at the 
 Duke's Theater, which took so universally that it was acted for some 
 weekes every day, and 'twas believ'd it would be worth to the Come- 
 dians 4 or ^.500. The plot was incomparable, but the language was 
 stiffe and formal. 
 
 10. I saw a Ball againe at Court, daunc'd by the King, the Duke, 
 and Ladies in great pompe. 
 
 21. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's of the Household, Sir Charles Berke- 
 ley's, where were the Earle of Oxford, Lord Bellassis, Lord Gerard, Sir 
 Andrew Scroope, Sir William Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, 
 and others. 
 
 5 Feb. I saw ' The Wild Gallant,' a comedy ' ; and was at the 
 greate Ball at Court, where his Majesty, the Queene, &c. daunc'd. 
 
 6. Dined at my Lord Maior's, Sir Jo. Robinson, Lieutenant of the 
 Tower. 
 
 15. This night some villains brake into my house and study below, 
 and robbed me to the value of ^.60 in plate, money, and goods. This 
 being the third time 1 have ben thus plundered. 
 
 26 Mar. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, where was a greate case 
 pleaded by his Majesty's Counsel ; he having built a wall over a water- 
 course, denied the jurisdiction of the Court. The verdict went for the 
 Plaintiff [/. e. against the King]. 
 
 30 April. Came his Majesty to honor my poore villa with his pre- 
 sence, viewing the gardens and even every roome of the house, and was 
 pleas'd to take a small refreshment. There were with him the Duke of 
 Richmond, Earl of St. Albans, Lord Lauderdale, and several other 
 persons of quality. 
 
 14 May. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence went to Barnes, 
 to visite my excellent and ingenious friend Abraham Cowley. 
 
 17. I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin, to whom I had 
 ben kind and assisted in his exile, but which he little remember'd in 
 his greatnesse. 
 
 29. Dr. Creighton preach'd his extravagant Sermon at St. Marga- 
 ret's, before the House of Commons. 
 
 30. This morning was pass'd my Lease of Sayes Court from the 
 Crown, for the finishing of which I had ben oblig'd to make frequent 
 joumies to London. I return'd this evening, having scene the Russian 
 Ambassador take leave of their Majesties with greate solemnity. 
 
 2 July. I saw the greate masq at Court, and lay that night at 
 Arundel-house. 
 4. I saw his Majesty's guards, being of horse and foote 4000, led by 
 
 1 By Mr Dryden. It did not succeed on its first representation, but was considerably 
 altered to tbe form in which it now appears. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 293 
 
 the Gensral the Duke of Albemarle in extraordinary equipage and gal- 
 lantry, consisting of gentlemen of quality and veteran souldiers, excel- 
 lently clad, mounted and ordered, drawn up in battalia before their 
 Majesties in Hide Park, where the old Earle of Cleveland trail'd a pike 
 and led the right-hand file in a foote company commanded by the Lord 
 Wentworth his son, a worthy spectacle and example, being both of 
 them old and valiant souldiers. This was to shew the French Am- 
 bassador, Monsieur Comminges ; there being a greate assembly of 
 coaches, &c. in the park. 
 
 7. Dined at the Comptroller's ; after dinner we met at the Com^mis- 
 sion about the streetes, and to regulate hackney coaches, also to make 
 up our accompts to passe the Exchequer. 
 
 16. A most extraordinary wet and cold season. 
 
 Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy, had now married his 
 daughter Carohne to Sir Thomas Scot, of Scottshall, in Kent. This 
 gent: was thought to be the sonn of Prince Rupert. 
 
 2 Aug. This evening I accompanied Mr. Treasurer and Vice Cham- 
 berlain Carteret to his lately-married son-in-law's Sir Tho. Scot, to 
 Scottshall. We tooke barge as far as Gravesend, thence by post to 
 Rochester, whence in coaches and 6 horses to Scottshall ; a right noble 
 seate, uniformely built, with a handsome gallery. It stands in a park 
 well stor'd, the land fat and good. We were exceedingly feasted by 
 the young knight, and in his pretty chapell heard an excellent sermon 
 by his chaplaine. In the afternoone preach'd the learned Sir Norton 
 Knatchbull (who has a noble seate hard by, and a plantation of stately 
 fir-trees). In the church-yard of the parish church I measur'd an over- 
 grown yew-tree that was 18 of my paces in compasse, out of some 
 branches of which, torne off by the winds, were saw'd goodly planks. 
 
 10. We return'd by Sir Norton's, whose house is likewise in a park. 
 This gentleman is a worthy person, and learned critic, especialy in 
 Greek and Hebrew. Passing by Chatham we saw his Majesties Royal 
 Navy, and din'd at Commissioner Pett's, master-builder there, who 
 shewed me his study and models, with other curiosities belonging to 
 his art. He is esteem'd for the most skilfull ship-builder in the world 
 He hath a pretty garden and banquetting-house, pots, statues, cypresses, 
 resembling some villas about Rome. After a greate feaste we rod post 
 to Graves-end, and sending the coach to London, came by barge to 
 Sayes Court that night. 
 
 18. To London to see my Lo. Chancellor, where I had discourse 
 with my Lo. Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of Winchester, 
 who injoyned me to write to Dr. Pierce, President of Magd. Coll. Oxon. 
 about a letter sent him by Dr. Goff, a Romish Oratorian, concerning 
 an answer to Dean Cressy's late book.' 
 
 1 Of Dr. Pi'^rce, who was also Dean of Salisbury, Wood gives a very unfavourable account 
 in his ' Fasti.' He appears to have been engaged ia disputes both in his College and at Salia- 
 
294 TABLES AT COURT. THE MINT. SHELDON, ABP. OF CANTERBURY. 
 
 30. I din'd at the Comptroller's [of the Household] with the Earle 
 of Oxford and Mr. Ashburnham ; it was said it should be the last of 
 the public diets or tables at Court, it being determined to put down the 
 old hospitality, at which was great murmuring, considering his Ma- 
 jesties vast revenue and the plenty of the Nation. Hence I went to sit 
 in a Committee to consider about the regulation of the Mint at the 
 Tower, in 'vviiich some small progresse was made. 
 
 27 Aug. Din'd at Sir Ph. Warwick's, Secretary to my Lo. Trea- 
 surer, who shew'd me the accompts and other private matters relating 
 to the revenue. Thence to the Commissioners of the Mint, particularly 
 about coynage, and bringing his Majestys rate from 15 to 10 shillings 
 for every pound weight of gold. 
 
 31. I was invited to the Translation of Dr. Sheldon, Bishop of 
 London, from that see to Canterbury, the ceremonie performed at 
 Lambeth. First went his grace's mace-bearir, steward, treasurer, 
 comptroller, all in their gownes and with white staves ; next the Bishops 
 in their habites, eight in number ; Dr. Sweate, Deane of the Arches, 
 Dr. Exton Judge of the Admiralty, Sir William Merick, Judge of the 
 Prerogative Court, with divers Advocates in scarlet. After divine ser- 
 vice in the chapel, perform'd with musiq extraordinary, Dr. French and 
 Dr. Stradling (his grace's chaplaines) saied prayers. The Archbishop 
 in a private roome looking into the Chapel, the Bishops who were 
 Commissioners went up to a table plac'd before the altar, and sat round 
 it in chaires- Then Dr. Chaworth presented the commission under 
 the broad seale to the Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr. 
 Sweate. After which the Vicar-general went to the vestry, and brought 
 his Grace into the Chapell, his other officers marching before. He 
 being presented to the Commissioners was seated in a greate arm chaire 
 at one end of the table, when the definitive sentence was read by the 
 Bishop of Winchester, and subscribed by all the Bishops, and procla- 
 mation was three times made at the Chapell dore, which was then set 
 open for any to enter and give their exceptions, if any they had. This 
 don, we all went to dinner in the greate hall to a mighty feast. There 
 were present all the nobility in towne, the Lord Maior of London, She- 
 riffs, Duke of Albemarle, &c. My Lo. Archbishop did in particular 
 most civily welcome me. So going to visite my Lady Needham who 
 liv'd at Lambeth, I went over to London. 
 
 10 Sept. I din'd with Mr. Treasurer of the Navy, where sitting by 
 Mr. Secretary Morice, we had much discourse about bookes and 
 authors, he being a learned man, and had a good collection. 
 
 24 Oct. Mr. Edward Phillips came to be my sonns preceptor : this 
 
 bury. Dean Cressy was bred in the Church of England, and was appointed Canon of Windsor 
 and Dean of Leighlin in Ireland, in the time of King Charles I. but, from the troubles of that 
 time, had no beneiit from either ; he afterwards became a Papist. The book here referred to 
 is ' Exomologetis/ or the motives of his conversion. Wood's Fasti. 
 
rilE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 295 
 
 gentleman was nephew to Milton, who wrote agiinst Salmasius's 
 ' Defensio,' but was not at all infected with his principles, tho' he was 
 brought up by him. 
 
 5 Nov. Dr. South, my Lord Chancellor's Chaplain, preached at 
 Westminster Abby an excellent discourse concerning obedience to 
 Magistrates, against the Pontificians and Sectaries. I afterwards dined 
 at Sir Ph. Warwick's, where was much company. 
 
 6. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn of Godstone off from being 
 Sheriff of Surrey, in which he succeeded. 
 
 30. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the choice of new 
 officers, according to the tenor of our Patent and Institution. It being 
 St. Andrew's day, who was our patron, each fellow wore a St. Andrew's 
 Crosse of ribbon on the crowne of his hatt. After the election we 
 din'd together, his Majesty sending us venison. 
 
 16 Dec. To our Society where Mr. P. Balle, our treasurer at the 
 late election, presented the Society with an iron chest, with 3 locks, 
 and in it £100. as a gift. 
 
 18. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majestys bedchamber at White- 
 hall. 
 
 1664, 2 Jan. To Barne Elmes, to see Abraham Cowley after his 
 sicknesse ; and returned that evening to London. 
 
 4 Feb. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's ; thence to Court, where I 
 had discourse with the King about an invention of Glasse Granados, 
 and severall other subjects. 
 
 5. I saw ' The Indian Queene'' acted, a tragedie well written, so 
 beautified with rich scenes as the like had never ben seene here, or 
 haply (except rarely) elsewhere on a mercenary theater. 
 
 16. I presented my ' Sylva ' to the Society ; and next day to his 
 Majestie, to whom it was dedicated ; also to the Lord Treasurer, and 
 the Lord Chancellor. 
 
 24. My Lord Geo. Berkeley of Durdens, and Sir Samuel Tuke, came 
 to visite me. We went on board Sir William Petty's double bottom'd 
 vessell, and so to London. 
 
 26. Dined with my Lord Chancellor ; and thence to Court, where 
 I had greate thanks for my ' Sylva,' and long discourse with the King 
 of divers particulars. 
 
 2 March. Went to London, to distribute some of my books amongst 
 my friends. 
 
 4. Came to dine with me the Earle of Lauderdale, his Majestie's 
 greate favorite, and Secretary of Scotland ; the Earl of Tividale ; 
 my Lord Viscount Brouncker, President of the R. Society ; Dr. 
 Wilkins, Deane of Rippon, Sir Robert Murray, and Mr. Hooka, 
 Curator to the Royal Society. 
 
 This Spring I planted the Home-field and West-field about Sayes 
 
 1 Written by Sir Robert Howard and Mr. Dryden. 
 
2q6 PLANTING AT SAVES COURT. TREASURES OF THE JESUITS. 
 
 Court with elmes, being the same yeare that the elmes were planted 
 
 by his Majesty in Greenewich Park. 
 
 9. I went to the Tower, to sit in Commission about regulating the 
 Mint ; and now it was that the fine new mill'd coin both of white money 
 and guineas was establisli'd. 
 
 26. It pleas'd God to take away my sonn Richard, being now a 
 moneth old, yet without any sicknesse of danger perceivably, being to 
 all appearance a most likely child ; we suspected much the nurse had 
 overlayne him ; to our extreame sorrow, being now againe reduced to 
 one ; but God's will be done ! 
 
 29. After evening prayers was my child buried neere the rest of his 
 brothers — my very deare Children. 
 
 27 April. Saw a facetious Comedy called ' Love in a Tub ; ' and 
 supped at Mr. Secretary Bennet's. 
 
 3 May. Came the Earle of Kent my kindsman, and his Lady, to 
 visite us. 
 
 5. Went with some company a journey of pleasure on the water in 
 barge with musick, and at Mortlack had a greate banquet, returning 
 late. The occasion was. Sir Rob. Carr now courting Mrs. Bennet, 
 sister to the Secretary of State. 
 
 6. Went to see Mr. Wrighte the painter's collection of rare shells, &c. 
 8 June. Went to our Society, to which his Majestic had sent that 
 
 wonderfull home of the fish which struck a dangerous hole in the keel 
 of a Ship in the India Sea, which being broke off with the violence of 
 the fish and left in the timber, preserved it from foundering. 
 
 9. Sir Samuel Tuke' being this morning married to a lady, kins- 
 woman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, by the Queenes Lord Almoner 
 L. Aubignie in St. James's Chapell, solemniz'd his wedding-night at my 
 house with much companie. 
 
 22. One Tomson a Jesuite shew'd me such a collection of rarities, 
 sent from the Jesuites of Japan and China to their Order at Paris, as a 
 present to be reserv'd in their repository, but brought to London by the 
 East India ships for them, as in my life I had not seene. The cheife 
 things were, large rhinoceros's horns ; glorious vests wrought and em- 
 brodered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colours, that for splendour 
 and vividness we have nothing in Europe that approches it ; a girdle 
 studded with achats and rubies of greate value and size ; knives of so 
 keene an edge as one could not touch them, nor was the mettal of our 
 colour, but more pale and livid ; fanns like those our ladies use, but 
 much larger, and with long handles curiously carved and filled with 
 Chinese characters ; a sort of paper very broad, thin and fine like 
 abortive parchment and exquisitely polished, of an amber yellow, ex- 
 ceeding glorious and pretty to looke on, and seeming to be like that 
 which my Lo. Verulame describes in his ' Nova Atlantis ; ' several 
 
 1 A Roman Catholic 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 297 
 
 Other sorts of paper, some written, others printed ; prints of landskips, 
 their idols, saints, pagods, of most ugly serpentine monstrous and 
 hideous shapes, to which they paid devotion ; pictures of men and 
 countries rarely painted on a sort of gum'd calico transparent as 
 glasse ; flowers, trees, beasts, birds, &c. excellently wrought in a kind 
 of sieve silk very naturall ; divers drougs that our drouggists and 
 physitians could make nothing of, especialy one which the Jesuite 
 call'd Lac Tygridis, it look'd like a fungus, but was weighty like metal!, 
 yet was a concretion or coagulation of some other matter ; several 
 booke MSS. ; a grammar of the language writen in Spanish ; with in- 
 numerable other rarities. 
 
 I July. Went to see Mr. Povey's' elegant house in Lincoln's-inn- 
 fields, where the perspective in his court, painted by Streeter, is indeede 
 excellent, with the vasas in imitation of porphyrie, and fountains ; the 
 inlaying of his closet ; above all, his pretty cellar and the ranging of 
 his wine bottles. 
 
 7. To Court, where I subscribed to Sir Arthur Slingsby's lotterj' a 
 desperate debt owing me long since in Paris. 
 
 14. I went to take leave of the two Mr. Howards, now going for 
 Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley ; thence to Eltham, to see 
 Sir John Shaw's new house now building ; the place is pleasant if not 
 too wett, but the house not well contriv'd, especialy the roofe and roomes 
 too low pitch'd, and the kitchen where the cellars should be ; the 
 orangerie and aviarie handsome, & a very large plantation about it. 
 
 19. To London to see the event of the lottery which his Majesty had 
 permitted Sir Arthur Slingsby to set up for one day in the Banqueting 
 House at White-hall. I gaining only a trifle, as well as did the King, 
 Queene-consort and Oueene-mother for neere 30 lotts ; which was 
 thought to be contrived very unhandsomely by the master of it, who 
 was, in truth, a meer shark. 
 
 21. I din'd with my L. Treasurer at Southampton House, where his 
 Lordship used me with singular humanitie. I went in the afternoone 
 to Chelsey to waite on the Duke of Ormond, and returned to London. 
 
 28. Came to see me old Monsieur Zulichem, Secretary to the Prince 
 of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, now neere 80 yeares of age, a rare 
 Latinist, with Monsieur Oudar:. 
 
 3 Aug. To London ; a concert of excellent musitians, especialy one 
 Mr. Berkenshaw, that rare artist who invented a mathematical way of 
 composure very extraordinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but 
 without much harmonie. 
 
 8. Came the sad and unexpected newes of the death of Lady Cot- 
 ton, wife to my brother George, a most excellent lady. 
 
 1 A Mr. Povey lived at Eellsize House in Hampstead in 1718, who was a coal merchant, 
 though Dot trained to the business : he wrote many books, some discovering indirect practices 
 in tJ.e coal trade, in government offices, &c 
 
298 DEATH OF MY SISTER-IN-LAW. LORD CLARENDON. 
 
 9. Went with my brother Richard to Wotton, to visite & comforte 
 my disconsolate brother; and on the 13th saw my friend Mr. Charles 
 Howard at Dipden neere Dorking. 
 
 16. I went to see Sir William Ducie's house at Charleton, which he 
 purchas'd of my excellent friend Sir Henry Newton, now nobly 
 furnish'd. 
 
 22. I went from London to Wotton to assist at the funeral of my 
 sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in our dormitorie there, she 
 being put up in lead. Dr. Owen made a profitable and pathetic dis- 
 course, concluding with an eulogie of that virtuous, pious, and deserving 
 lady. It was a very solemn funerall, with about 50 mourners. I came 
 back next day with my wife to London. 
 
 2 September. Came Sir Constantino Hugens, Dr. Zulichem, Sir 
 Robert Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew, and other friends, to spend 
 the day with us. 
 
 5 Oct. To our Society. There was brought a new invented instru- 
 ment of musiq, being a harpsichord with gut strings, sounding like a 
 concert of viols with an organ, made vocal by a wheele, and a zone of 
 parchment that rubb'd horizontaly against the strings. 
 
 6. I heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr. Harvey, in the 
 Anatomic Theater in the Coll. of Physitians, after which I was invited 
 by Dr. Alston the President to a magnificent feast. 
 
 7. I din'd at Sir Nicholas Strood's, one of the Masters of Chancery,, 
 in greate St. Bartholomews ; passing the evening at White-hall with 
 the Queene, &c. 
 
 8. Sir William Curtius, his Majesty's Resident in Germany, came 
 to visite me ; he was a wise and learned gentleman, and, as he told me, 
 scholar to Henry Alstedius the Enclyclopffidist. 
 
 15. Din'd at the Lo. Chancellors, where was the Duke of Ormond, 
 Earle of Cork, & Bp. of Winchester. After dinner my Lord Chan- 
 cellor and his lady carried me in their coach to see their palace^ (for he 
 now liv'd at Worcester House in the Strand) building at the upper end 
 of St. James's Streete, and to project the garden. In the evening I 
 presented him with my booke of Architecture, as before I had don to 
 his Majesty and the Queene Mother. His Lordship caus'd me to stay 
 with him in his bed-chamber, discoursing of several! matters very late, 
 even til he was going into his bed. 
 
 17. I went with my Lord Visct. Corneburyto Cornebury in Oxford- 
 shire, to assist him in the planting of the park, and beare him company, 
 with Mr. Belin and Mr. May, in a coach with 6 horses ; din'd at 
 Uxbridge, lay at Wicckam (Wycombe). 
 
 18. At Oxford. Went thro' Woodstock, where we beheld the de- 
 
 ' There is a large View of it engraved. The Chancellor in the Continuation of his Life 
 laments the having built it, on account of the great cost, and the unpopularity wliich its mag- 
 nificence created. He had httle enjoyment ofit, as will be seen hereafter. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 299 
 
 struction of that royal seate and park by the late rebels, and ariv'd that 
 evening at Comebury, an house lately buDt by the Earle of Denbigh 
 in the middle of a sweete park, wall'd with a dry wall. The house is 
 of excellent freestone abounding in that part, a stone that is fine, but 
 never sweats or casts any damp ; 'tis of ample dimensions, has goodly 
 cellars, the paving of the hall admirable for its close laying. We 
 design'd an handsome chapell that was yet wanting : as Mr. May had 
 the stables, which indeede are very faire, having set out the walkes in 
 the park and gardens. The lodge is a prety solitude, and the ponds 
 very convenient ; the parke well stor'd. 
 
 20. Hence we went to see the famous wells, natural and artificial 
 grotts and fountaines, call'd Bushells Wells at Enstone.' This Bushell 
 had ben secretary to my Lo. Verulam. It is an extraordinary solitude. 
 There he had two mummies ; a grott where he lay in a hammock like 
 an Indian. Hence we went to Dichley, an ancient seate of the Lees, now 
 Sir Hen. Lee's ; it is a low ancient timber-house, with a pretty bowling 
 greene. My Lady gave us an extraordinai-y dinner. This gentleman's 
 mother was Countesse of Rochester, who was also there, and Sir 
 Walter Saint John. There were some pictures of their ancestors not 
 ill painted ; the great grand-father had been Knight of the Garter : 
 there was the picture of a Pope and our Saviour's head. So we return'd 
 to Combury. 
 
 24. We din'd at Sir Tim. Tyrill's at Shotover. This gentleman 
 married the daughter and heyre of Dr. James Usher, Abp. of Armagh, 
 that learned Prelate. There is here in the grove a fountaine of the 
 coldest water I ever felt, and very cleere. His plantation of oakes, &c. 
 is very commendable. We went in the evening to Oxford, lay at Dr. 
 Hide's, Principal of Magdalen Hall (related to the Lo. Chancellor) 
 brother to the Lord Ch. Justice, and that Sir Hen. Hide who lost his 
 head for his loyalty. We were handsomly entertain'd two dayes. The 
 Vice Chancellor, who with Dr. Fell, Deane of Christ Church, the 
 learned Dr. Barlow, Warden ofQueenes, and severall heads of houses, 
 came to visite Lord Cornebury (his father being now Chancellor of the 
 University), and next day invited us all to dinner. I went to visite 
 Mr. Boyle (now here), whom I found with Dr. Wallis, and Dr. Chris- 
 topher Wren in the Tower of the Scholes, with an inverted tube or 
 telescope, observing the discus of the Sunn for the passing of Mercury 
 that day before it, but the latitude was so great that nothing appeared ; 
 so we went to see the rarities in the Library, where the keepers shewed 
 me my name among the benefactors. They have a cabinet of some 
 medails, and pictures of the muscular parts of a man's body. Thence 
 to the new Theater, now building at an exceeding and royal expence 
 by the Lo. Abp. of Canterbury [Sheldon], to keepe the Acts in for the 
 
 " Bushell published a pamphlet respecting his contrivances here ; and in Plotl's Oxfordshire 
 is an engraving of the rock, the fountains, &c. belonging to it. 
 
300 THE KING. APPOINTED COMMISSIONER TO LOOK TO CAPTIVES. 
 
 future, till now being in St. Mary's church. The foundation had ben 
 newly laied and the whole design'd by that incomparable genius my 
 worthy friend Dr. Christopher Wren, who shewed me the model, not 
 disdaining my advice in some particulars. Thence to see the picture 
 on the wall over the Altar at All Soules, being the largest piece of 
 fresco painting (or rather in imitation of it, for it is in oil of turpentine) 
 in England, not ill design'd by the hand of one Fuller ; yet I feare it 
 will not hold long. It seems too full of nakeds for a chapell. 
 
 Thence to New College, and the painting of Magdalen Chapel, 
 which is on blew cloth in chiaro osciiro, by one Greenborow, being 
 a Ccena Domini, and a Last Jitdgment on the wall by Fuller, as is the 
 other, but somewhat varied. 
 
 Next to Wadham, and the Physick Garden, where were two large 
 locust trees, and as many platana, and some rare plants under the 
 culture of old Bobart.^ 
 
 26. We came back to Beaconsfield ; ne.xt day to London, where we 
 din'd at the Lord Chancellor's with my Lord Bellasis. 
 
 27. Being casually in the privy gallery at White-hall, his Majesty 
 gave me thanks before divers lords and noblemen for my book of Ar- 
 chitecture, and againe for my ' Sylva,' saying they were the best 
 design'd and useful! for the matter and subject, the best printed and 
 design'd (meaning the taille douces of the Parallel of Architecture) that 
 he had scene. He then caus'd me to follow him alone to one of the 
 windows, and ask'd me if I had any paper about me unwritten, and a 
 crayon ; I presented him with both, and then laying it on the window- 
 stool, he with his own hands design'd to me the plot for the future 
 building of White-hall, together with the roomes of state, and other 
 particulars. After this he talk'd with me of severall matters, and 
 asking my advice of many particulars, in which I find his Majesty had 
 an extraordinary talent becoming a magnificent prince. 
 
 The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to be made to 
 take care of such Sick and Wounded and Prisoners of war as might be 
 expected upon occasion of a succeeding war and action at sea, war 
 being already declar'd against the Hollanders, his Majesty was pleas'd 
 to nominate me to be one, with three other gentlemen, Parliament men, 
 m2. Sir Wm. Doily Knt. and Bart. Sir Tho. Clifford," and Bullein 
 Rheymes Esq. ; with a salary ;!(^. 1 200 a year amongst us, besides extra- 
 
 1 Jacob Bobart, a German, was appointed tbe first keeper of the Physic Garden at Oxford. 
 There is a fine print of him after Loggan by Burghers, dated 1675. Also a small whole 
 length in the frontispiece of Vertumnus, a poem on that garden. In this he is dressed in a 
 long vest, with a beard. One of this family was bred up at College in Oxford, but quitted hia 
 studies for the profession of the whip, driving one of the Oxford coaches (his own property) 
 for many years with great credit. In 1813 he broke his leg by an accident : and in 1814, 
 from the respect he had acquired by his good conduct, fee was appointed by the University 
 CO the place of one of the Esquire Beadles, 
 
 • Since Lord Treasurer of Kn^Und. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 30I 
 
 ordinaries for our care and attention in time of station, each of us being 
 appointed to a particular district, mine falling out to be Kent and 
 Sussex, with power to constitute officers, physitians, chirurgeons, pro- 
 vost marshals, and to dispose of halfe of the hospitals thro' England. 
 After the Council we kiss'd his Majesty's hand. At this Council I 
 heard Mr. Solicitor Finch ' plead most elegantly for the Merchants 
 trading to the Canaries, praying for a new Charter. 
 
 29. Was the most magnificent triumph by water and land of the 
 Lord Maior "- I din'd at Guild-hall at the upper table, plac'd next to 
 Sir H. Bennett, Secretary of State, opposite to my Lo. Chancellor and 
 the Duke of Buckingham who sate betweene Monsieur Comminges 
 the French Ambassador, Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond and 
 Albemarle, Earl of Manchester Lord Chamberlaine, and the rest of the 
 great Officers of State. My Lord Maior came twice up to us, first 
 drinking in the golden goblett his Majesty's health, then the French 
 King's as a compliment to the Ambassador ; then we return'd my Lo. 
 Maior's health, the trumpets and drums sounding. The cheere was 
 not to be imagined for the plenty and raritie, with an infinite number 
 of persons at the rest of the tables in tkat ample hall. The feast was 
 said to cost ;i^.iooo. I slipt away in the crowd, and came home late. 
 
 31. I was this day 44 yeares of age, for which I returned thanks to 
 Almighty God, begging his mercyfuU protection for the yeare to come. 
 
 2 November. Her Majesty the Queene Mother came crosse the 
 gallerie in White-hall to give me thanks for my book of Architecture 
 which I had presented to her, with a compliment that I did by no 
 means deserve. 
 
 16. We chose our Treasurer, Clearks, and Messengers, and ap- 
 pointed our seal which I order'd should be the good Samaritan, with 
 this motto, Fac similiter. Painters Hall was lent us to meete in. In 
 the greate roome were divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had 
 ben given to the Company by several of the Wardens and Masters of 
 the Company. 
 
 23. Our Statutes now finished, were read before a full assembly of 
 the Royall Society. 
 
 24. His Majesty was pleas'd to tell me what the conference was 
 with the Holland Ambassador, which, as after I found, was the heads 
 of the speech he madt at the re-convention of the Parhament, which 
 now began to meet. 
 
 2 Dec. We deliver'd the Privy Council's letters to the Governors of 
 St. Thomas's Hospital in Southwark, that a moiety of the house should 
 be reserv'd for such sick and wounded as should from time to time be 
 sent from the Fleete during the war. This being deliver'd at their 
 
 ' Afterwards Earl of Nottingham, and Lord Chancellor. 
 
 2 Sir John Lawrence. The pageant for the day was called ' London's Triumph, prepared 
 at the cost of the Haberdashers Companj-, and written by John Tatham, Gent.' 
 
302 LAUNCH OF THE EXPERIMENT. THE MYSIERIES OF JESUITISM. 
 
 Court, the President and several Aldermen, Governors of that Hospital, 
 invited us to a greate feaste in Fishmongers Hall. 
 
 20. To London our last sitting, taking order for our personal visiting 
 our severall districts. I dined at Capt. Cock's (our Treasurer), which 
 that most ingenious gent. Matthew Wren, sonn to the Bp. of Ely, and 
 Mr. Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State. 
 
 22. I went to the launching of a new ship of two bottomes, invented 
 by Sir Wm. Petty, on which were various opinions ; his Majesty being 
 present gave her the name of The Experiment ; so I returned home, 
 where I found Sir Humphry Winch, who spent the day with me. 
 
 This yeare I planted the lower grove next the pond at Sayes Court. 
 It was now exceeding cold and a hard long frosty season, and the ComeJ 
 --W3S very visible. 
 
 28. Some of my poore neighbours dined with me, and others of my 
 tennants, according to my annual costome. 
 
 31, Set my affaires in order, gave God praise for his mercys the 
 
 past yeare, and prepared for the reception of the Holy Sacrament, 
 which I partook of the next day after hearing our Minister on the 4th 
 Galatians 4. 5. of the Mysterie of Our Blessed Saviours Incarnation. 
 
 1665. 2 Jan. This day was published by me that part of 'The 
 
 1 In a letter to Lord Cornbury 2 Jan. 1664, Mr. Evelyn says, * I came to present your 
 Lordship with your owne booke [in the margin is written, ' The other part of the Myst;ery of 
 Jesuitism translated and publish'd by me'] : I left it with my Lord your father, because I 
 would not suffer it to be publiq till he had first scene it, who, on your Lordship's score, has so 
 just a title to it. The particulars which you will find added after the 4th letter are extracted 
 out of severall curious papers and passages lying by me, which for being very apposite to the 
 controversy, I thought fit to annex, in danger otherwise to have never ben produced.' — In 
 another letter to Lord Cornbury, 9 Feb. 1664, Mr. Evelyn says he undertook the Translatien 
 by command of his Lordship and of his father the Lord Chancellor. 
 
 The Authors of the ' Biographia -Britannica ' speak of " The Mystery of Jesuitisme '' as one 
 volume : but in the library at Wotton there are three, in duodecimo, with the following titles 
 and contents : the second in order is that translated by Mr. Evelyn, 
 
 1. Les Provinclales, or, The Mystery of Jesuitisme, discovered in certain Letters written 
 upon occasion of the present difference at Sorbonne between the Jansenists and the Molinists, 
 displaying the perr.lcious Maxims of the late Casuists. The second edition corrected, with 
 large additionals. Sicut Serpenies. London : Printed for Richard Royston, and are to be sold 
 by Robert Clavell at the Stag's Head near St. Gregorie's Church in St. Paul's Churchyard, 
 1658.— pp. 360. Additionals, pp. 147. At the end are the names of some of the most eminent 
 Casuists. 
 
 2. Mi/^tjptoi' TJjr 'Ai'oni'ac That is. Another Part of the Mystery of Jesuitism ; or the new 
 Heresie of the Jesuites, publickly maintained at Paris, in the College of Clermont, the xii of 
 December MDCLXI. declared to all the Bishops of France. According to the copy printed 
 at Paris. Together with the Imaginary Heresie, in three Letters, with divers other particu- 
 lars relating to the abominable Mysterie. Never before published in English. London: 
 Printed by James Flesher, for Richard Royston, bookseller to his most sacred Majesty, 1664. 
 — 3 letters, pp. 206. Copy of a Letter from the reverend Father Valerian, a Capuchin, to 
 Pope Alexander 7th, pp. 207 — 239. The sense of the French Church, pp. 240 — 254. 
 
 3. The Moral Practice of the Jesuits demonstrated by many remarkable histories of their 
 actions in all parts of the world. Collected either from books of the greatest authority, or 
 most certain and unquestionable records and memorials. By the Doctors of the Sorbonne. 
 Faithfully translated into English (by Dr. Tongue ; see 1678, Oct. 1.) London ; Printed for 
 Simon Miller at the Star at the West end of St. Paul's, 1670. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. j03 
 
 Alysterie of Jesuitisn, translated and collected by me, the' without my 
 name, containing the Imaginarie Heresy, with 4 letters and other pieces. 
 
 4. I went in a coach, it being excessive sharp frost and snow, 
 towards Dover and other parts of Kent, to settle physitians, chirurgeons, 
 agents, marshals and other officers in all the Sea Ports, to take care of 
 such as should be set on shore, wounded, sick, or prisoners, in pur- 
 suance of our Commission reaching from the North Foreland in Kent 
 to Portsmouth in Hampshire. The rest of the Ports in England were 
 allotted to the other Commissioners. That evening I came to Ro- 
 chester, where I deliver'd the Privy Council's letter to the Maior to 
 receive orders from me. 
 
 5. I ariv'd at Canterbury, and went to the Cathedral, exceedingly 
 well repair'd since his Majesty's returne. 
 
 6. To Dover, where Col. Stroode Lieutenant of the Castle, having 
 receiv'd the letter I brought him from the Duke of Albemarle, made 
 me lodge in it, and I was splendidly treated, assisting me from place to 
 place. Here I settled my first Deputy. The Maior and Officers of the 
 Costomes were very civil to me. — 9. To Deal. — 10. To Sandwich, a 
 pretty towne, about 2 miles from the sea. The Maior and Officers of 
 the Costomes were very diligent to serve me. I visited the Forts in the 
 way, and return'd that night to Canterbury. 
 
 II. To Rochester, when I tooke order to settle officers at Chatham. 
 — 12. To Gravesend, and return'd home. A cold, busy, but not an 
 unpleasant journey. 
 
 25. This night being at White-hall, his Majesty came to me standing 
 in the withdrawing roome, and gave me thanks for publishing ' The 
 Mysterie of Jesuitism,' which he said he had carried two days in his 
 pocket, read it, and encourag'd me ; at which I did not a little wonder ; 
 I suppose Sir Robert Murray had given it to him. 
 
 27. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, who caus'd me after dinner to 
 sit 2 or 3 houres alone with him in his bed-chamber. 
 
 2 Feb. I saw a masq perform'd at Court by 6 gentlemen and 6 
 ladys, surprizing his Majesty, it being Candlemas-day. 
 
 8. Ash-Wednesday. I visited our prisoners at Chelsey CoUedge, 
 and to examine how the Martial and Suttlers behav'd. These were 
 prisoners taken in the warr ; they only complain'd that their bread was 
 too fine. I dined at Sir Henry Herbert's, Master of the Revells. 
 
 9. Din'd at my Lo. Treasurers the Earle of Southampton, in Blomes- 
 bury, where he was building a noble Square or Piazza,' a little Towne ; 
 his owne hotise stands too low, some noble roomes, a pretty cedar 
 chapell, a naked garden to the North, but good aire '- I had much 
 
 1 TTie Italians do not mean what we do by Piazza ; they only mean a Square. 
 
 2 Afterwards it was called Bedford House, being the town residence for many years of the 
 Russell family, but was pulled down in t8oo, and on the site and the adjoining fields were 
 erected many handsome houses, now called Russell Square, Bedford Place, Russell Place, &c. 
 
304 ST. JAMES'S PARKE. DR. FELL. THE HOUSE OF LORDS. 
 
 discourse with his Lordship, whom I found to be a person of extra- 
 ordinary parts, but vahtiidinarie. — I went to St. James's Parke, where 
 I saw various animals, and examined the throate of the Onocratylns 
 or Pelican, a fowle betweene a Storlc and a Swan ; a melancholy water- 
 fowl brought from Astracan by the Russian Ambassador, it was divert- 
 ing to see how he would toss up and turn a flat fish, plaice or flounder, 
 to get it right into its gullet at its lower beak, which being filmy, 
 stretches to a prodigious wideness when it devours a great fish. Here 
 was also a small water-fowl not bigger than a more-hen, that went 
 almost quite erect like the penguin of America ; it would eate as much 
 fish as its whole body weigh'd, I never saw so unsatiable a devourer, 
 yet the body did not appear to swell the bigger. The Solan geese here 
 also are greate devourers, and are said soon to exhaust all the fish in a 
 pond. Here was a curious sort of poultry not much exceeding the size 
 of a tame pidgeon, with legs so short as their crops seem'd to touch the 
 earth ; a milk-white raven ; a stork which was a rarity at this season, 
 seeing he was loose and could flie loftily ; two Balerian cranes, one of 
 which having had one of his leggs broken and cut off above the knee, 
 had a wooden or boxen leg and thigh, with a joynt so accurately made 
 that the creature could walke and use it as well as if it had ben natural ; 
 it was made by a souldier. The Parke was at this time stored with 
 numerous flocks of severall sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild 
 fowle, breeding about the Decoy, which for being neere so greate a 
 Citty, and among such a concourse of souldiers and people, is a singular 
 and diverting thing. There were also deere of severall countries, 
 white; spotted like leopards; antelopes; an elk; red deere; roebucks; 
 staggs ; Guinea goates ; Arabian sheepe, &c. There were withy-potts 
 or nests for the wild fowle to lay their eggs in, a little above the surface 
 of the water. 
 
 23 Feb. I was invited to a greate feast at Mr. Rich's (a relation of 
 my wife's, now Reader at Lincoln's Inn ; where was the Duke of 
 Monmouth, the Archbishop of Canterbury, Bishops of London and 
 Winchester, the Speaker of the House of Commons, divers of the 
 Judges, and severall other greate men. 
 
 24. Dr. Fell, Canon of Christ Church, preach'd before the King on 
 15 Romans 2, a very formal discourse, and in blank verse, according to 
 his manner ; however he is a good man. — Mr. Philips, preceptor to my 
 sonn, went to be with the E. of Pembroke's sonn, my Lo. Herbert. 
 
 2 March. I went with his Majesty into the lobbie behind the House 
 of Lords, where I saw the King and rest of the Lords robe them- 
 selves, and got into the Lords House in a corner neere the woolsack on 
 which the Lord Chancellor sits next below the Throne ; the King sate 
 in all the regalia, the crown imperial on his head, the scepter and 
 globe, &c. The D. of Albemarle bare the sword, the D. of Ormond 
 the cap of dignity. The rest of the Lords robed and in their places : — a 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 305 
 
 most splendid and august convention. Then came the Speaker and the 
 House of Commons, and at the barr made a speech, and afterwards 
 presented severall bills, a nod onely passing them, the Cleark saying 
 Le Roy le veult, as to public bills ; as to private, Soitfaite comme it 
 est desiri. Then his Majesty made a handsome but short speech, 
 commanding my Lord Privy Scale to prorogue the Parliament, whicJ 
 he did, the Chancellor being ill and absent. I had not before seene 
 this ceremony. 
 
 9. 1 went to receive the poore creatures that were saved out of the 
 London fregat, blovvne up by accident with above 200 men. 
 
 29 Mar. Went to Goring House', now Mr. Secretary Bennett's, ill 
 built, but the place capable of being made a pretty villa. His Majestie 
 was now finishing the Decoy in the Parke. 
 
 2 April. Took order about some prisoners sent from Capt. Allen's 
 ship, taken in the Solomon, viz. the brave men who had defended her 
 so gallantly. 
 
 5. Was a day of public humiliation and for successe of this terrible 
 warr, begun doubtlesse at secret instigation of the French to weaken the 
 Stntes &; Protestant interest. Prodigious preparations on both sides. 
 
 6. In the afternoone I saw acted ' Mustapha,' a tragedy written by 
 the Earle of Orrery. 
 
 II. To London, being now left the onely Commissioner to take all 
 necessary orders how to exchange, remove, and keepe prisoners, dispose 
 of hospitalls, &c. the rest of the Commissioners being gone to their 
 severall districts, in expectation of a suddaine engagement. 
 
 19. Invited to a greate dinner at the Trinity House, where I had 
 businesse with the Commissioners of the Navy, and to receive the second 
 ;£5,ooo imprest for the service of the sick and wounded prisoners. 
 
 20. To White-hall to the King, who called me into his bed chamber 
 as he was dressing, to whom I shew'd the letter written to me from the 
 Duke of York from the fleete, giving me notice of Young Evertson, and 
 some other considerable commanders newly taken in fight with the 
 Dartmouth and Diamond frigats", whom he had sent me as prisoners 
 
 1 On the site whereof Arlington Street is now built. Tlaere is a small print of this house. 
 
 2 In the publication of the Life of King James II. from his own papers (printed 1816), after 
 describing the engagement with the Dutch fleet in 1665, he says, ' Soon after this three Dutch 
 men of war, which had been seen for some time to the windward of us, and were looking out 
 for their own fleet, bore down in order to join it. One of them was a great ship of above 80 
 gijns, which for want of some repairs had been left by Cornelius Evertson to his son, with 
 orders to follow ; the otfr.er two were not of the same force. These being to windward, endea- 
 voured to join the head of their fleet, and young Evertson being a mettled man, and having a 
 mind to distinguish hit.lself, resolved to run on board the Plimouth, hoping to bear her down : 
 but Sir Tho. Allen, perceiving by Evertson's working what his design was, brought his ship to 
 at once, so that Evertson miss'd his aim, tho' he came so near it that the yard-arms of both 
 ships touch'd, and they gave each other a severe broadside in passing ; after which Evertson 
 and the other two made a shift to join their own fleet, and Sir Tho. Allen continued leading as 
 before, till finding himself extreamly disabled, he was forc'd to ly by.* P. 410. — 'After this 
 engagement was over, and the Dutch had retured to their own ports, the Duke of ^'o^k had 
 
 20 
 
306 FIGHT AT SEA. CAPTURE OF SHIPS. RELEASE OF THE CAPTAINS. 
 
 at war ; I went to know of his Majestie how he would have me treate 
 them, when he commanded me to bring the young Captain to him, and 
 to take the word of the Dutch Ambassador (who yet remained here) for 
 the other, that he should render himself to me whenever I called on 
 him, and not stir without leave. Upon which I desir'd more guards, 
 the prison being Chelsey House. I went also to Lord Arlington (the 
 Secretary Bennett lately made a Lord) about other businesse. Dined 
 at my Lord Chancellor's, none with him but Sir Sackville Crowe, for- 
 merly the Ambassador at Constantinople ; we were very chearfuU 
 and merry. 
 
 24. I presented young Capt. Evertson (eldest son of Cornelius, Vice 
 Admiral of Zealand, and nephew of John, now Admiral, a most valiant 
 person) to his Majestie in his bed chamber ; the King gave him his 
 hand to kisse, and restored him his liberty ; ask'd many questions con- 
 cerning the fight (it being the first bloud drawne), his Majestie remem- 
 bering the many civilities he had formerly receiv'd from his relations 
 abroad, who had now so much interest in that considerable Province. 
 Then I was commanded to go with him to the Holland Ambassador, 
 where he was to stay for his passport, and I was to give him 50 pieces 
 in broad gold. Next day I had the Ambassador's parole for the other 
 Captain, taken in Capt. Allen's fight before Cales. I gave the King an 
 account of what I had don, and afterwards ask'd the same favour for 
 another Captain, which his Majesty gave me. 
 
 28 April. I went to Tunbridge, to see a solemn exercise at the free 
 schoole there!. 
 
 Having taken orders with my martial about my prisoners, and with 
 the doctor and chirurgeon to attend the wounded, enemies and of our 
 owne men, I went to London again and visited my charge, several! 
 with legs and arms off; miserable objects God knows ! 
 
 16 May. To London to consider of the poore orphans and widows 
 
 brought back the English fleet to the Nore, he took care to have his Scouts abroad, two of 
 which, the Diamond, Capt. Golding, and the Yarmouth, Capt AyliiFe, being sent to observe the 
 motione of the Dutch, they happened to meet with two of the Direction ships (as the Dutch call 
 them) of 40 od guns each ; the biggest was commanded by one Masters, the other by young 
 Cornelius Evertson, who, tho' ours were of somewhat better force, did not avoid engaging. At 
 the first broadside Golding was slain ; but his Lieut. Davis managed the fight so well, as did 
 the Capt. of the Yarmouth, that after some hours dispute, both the Dutch ships were taken, 
 the' bravely defended, for they lost many men and were very much disabled before they 
 •tntck The Duke gave young Evertson his libertyi, in consideration of his father Cornelius, 
 who had performed severall services for the K. before his Restoration ; and his R. H. freed 
 also the other Captain for having defended himself so well, and made Lieut. Davis Captain 
 of those prizes.' P. 419. 
 
 * There is an annual visitation by the Skinners Company of London, who are the patrons, 
 at which verses, themes, &c. are spoken before them by the senior scholars. The Rev. Vicesi- 
 mus Knox (D.D.), author of many works, some of have gone through many editions, waa 
 master from about 1779 to 1812, when he resigned in favour of his son the Rev. Thomas Knox. 
 
 1 i. e. he recommended it to the King to do so, for we see he was sent to London and pre- 
 sented to the King by Mr. Evelyn. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 307 
 
 made by this bloudy beginning, and whose husbands and relations 
 perished in the London fregat, of which there were 50 widows, and 45 
 of them with child. 
 
 26. To treat with the Holland Ambassador at Chelsey for release of 
 divers prisoners of warr in Holland on exchange here. After dinner 
 being call'd into the Council Chamber at White-hall, I gave his Majesty 
 an account of what I had don, informing him of the vast charge upon 
 us, now amounting to no less than ;^.iooo weekely. 
 
 29. I went with my little boy to visite my district in Kent, to make 
 up accompts with my officers. Visited the Governor at Dover Castle,, 
 where were some of my prisoners. 
 
 3 June. In my return went to Graves-end ; the Fleets being just- 
 now engaged, gave special orders for my officers to be ready to receive 
 the wounded and prisoners. 
 
 5. To London, to speak with his Majesty and the Duke of Albemarle 
 for horse and foote guards for the prisoners at warr, committed more 
 particularly to my charge by a Commission apart. 
 
 8. I went againe to his Grace, thence to the Council, and mov'd for 
 another privy seale for ^.20,000, and that I might have the disposal 
 of the Savoy Hospital for the sick and wounded, all which was granted. 
 Hence to the Royal Society to refreshe among the Philosophers. 
 
 Came newes of his Highness's victory, which indeede might have 
 ben a compleate one, and at once ended the warr, had it ben pursued, 
 but the cowardice of some, or treachery, or both, frustrated that. We 
 had however bonfires, bells and rejoicing in the Citty. Next day the- 
 9th I had instant orders to repaire to the Downes, so as I got to> 
 Rochester this evening. Next day 1 lay at Deale, where I found all in- 
 readinesse ; but the Fleete being hindred by contrary winds I come away 
 on the i2th and went to Dover, and returned to Deale ; and on the- 
 13th hearing the Fleete was at Solebay, I went homeward, and lay at- 
 Chatham, and the 14th I got home. On the 15th came the eldest son , 
 of the present Secretary of State to the French King, with much other 
 companie, to dine with me. After dinner I went with him to London, . 
 to speake to my Lord Gen. for more guards, and gave his Majesty an ■ 
 account of my journey to the Coasts under my inspection. I also waited 
 on his Royal Highnesse, now come triumphant from the Fleete, 
 gotten in to repaire. See the whole history of this conflict in my 
 History of the Dutch Warr. 
 
 20. To London, and represented the state of the sick and wounded 
 to his Majesty in Council, for want of mony ; heorder'dl should apply 
 to my Lo. Treassurer and Chancellor of the Exchequer, upon what- 
 funds to raise the mony promised. We also presented to his Majesty 
 divers expedients for retrenchment of the charge. 
 
 This evening making my court to the Duke, I spake to Mons. Co- 
 minges the French Ambassador, and his Highness spranted me six 
 
Jo8 VISIX THE FLEETE IN COMPANY WITH THE KING. 
 
 prisoners, Emdeners, who were desirous to go to the Barbados with a 
 merchant. 
 
 22. We waited on the Chancellor of the Exchequer, and got an 
 order of Council for our mony to bt paid to the Treasurer of the Navy 
 for our Receivers. 
 
 23. I din'd with Sir Robert Paston since Earle of Yarmouth, and 
 saw the Duke of Verneuille base brother to the Q. Mother, a handsom 
 old man, a greate hunter. 
 
 The Duke of Yorke, told us that when they were in fight, his dog 
 sought out absolutely the very securest place in all the vessell. — In the 
 afternoone I saw the pompous reception and audience of El Conde de 
 Molino, the Spanish Ambassador, in the Banquetting-house, both their 
 Majesties sitting together under the canopy of state. 
 
 30. To Chatham ; and I July, to the Fleete with Lord Sandwich, 
 now Admiral, with whom I went in a pinnace to the Buoy of the Nore, 
 where the whole Fleete rod at anker ; went on board the Prince of 90 
 brasse ordnance, happly the best ship in the world both for building 
 and sailing ; she had 700 men. They made a greate huzza or shout at 
 our approch 3 times. Here we dined with many noblemen, gentlemen 
 and volunteers, served in plate and excellent meate of all sorts. After 
 dinner came his Majestic, the Duke, and Prince Rupert. Here I saw 
 the King knight Capt. Custance for behaving so bravely in the late 
 fight. It was surprizing to behold the good order, decency, and plenty 
 of all things in a vessell so full of men. The ship received an hundred 
 cannon shot in her body. Then I went on board the Charles, to v/hich, 
 .nfter a gun was shot off, came all the Flag-officers to his Majesty, who 
 there held a Generall Council, which determin'd that his R. Highnasse 
 should adventure himselfe no more this Summer. I came away late, 
 having scene the most glorious Fleete that ever spread sailes. We 
 returned in his Majesty's yacht with my Lo. Sandwich and Mr. Vice- 
 Chamberlaine, landing at Chatham on Sunday morning. 
 
 5 July. I tooke order for 150 men who had ben recovered of their 
 wounds, to be carried on board the Clove Tree, Carolus Quintus, and 
 Zeland, ships that had ben taken by us in the fight ; and so re- 
 turn'd home. 
 
 7. To London, to Sir Wm. Coventrie ; and so to Sion, where h's 
 Majesty sat at Council during the contagion ; when buisines was over, 
 I viewed that seate belonging to the Earle of Northumberland, built 
 out of an old Nunnerie, of stone, and faire enough, but more celebrated 
 for the garden than it deserves ; yet there is excellent wall-fruit, and a 
 pretty fountaine ; nothing else extraordinarie. 
 
 9. I went to Hampton Court, where now the whole Court was, 
 to solicite for mony ; to carry intercepted letters ; confer again with 
 Sir Wm. Coventrie, the Duke's secretary ; and so home, having din'd 
 with Mr. Secretary Morice. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELVN. 309 
 
 16 July. There died of the plague in London this weeke rtoo, 
 and in the weeke following above 2000. Two houses were shut up 
 in our parish. 
 
 2 Aug. A solemn fast thro' England to deprecate God's displeasure 
 against the land by pestilence and war ; our Dr. preaching on 26 Levit 
 41, 42. that the meanes to obtaine remission of punishment was not to 
 repine at it, but humbly submit to it. 
 
 3. Came his Grace the Duke of Albemarle, L. Generall of all his 
 Majesties Forces, to visite me, and carried me to dine with him. 
 
 4. I went to Wotton to carry my sonn and his tutor Mr. Bohun, 
 Fellow of New Coll. (recommended to me by Dr. Wilkins and the 
 Pres. of New Coll. O.xford), for feare of the pestilence, still increasing in 
 London and its environs. On my retume I call'd at Durdans, where I 
 found Dr. Wilkins, Sir Wm. Petty, and Mr. Hooke, contriving chariots, 
 new rigging for ships, a wheele for one to run races in, and other 
 mechanical inventions ; perhaps three such persons together were not 
 to be found elsewhere in Europe, for parts and ingenuity. 
 
 8. I waited on the D. of Albemarle, who was resolved to stay at 
 the Cock-pk in St. James's Parke. Died this week in London 4000. 
 
 15. There perished this week 5000. 
 
 28. The contagion still increasing and growing now all about us, 
 I sent my wife and whole family (two or three necessary servants 
 excepted) to my brother's at Wotton, being resolved to stay at my 
 house myselfe and to looke after my charge, trusting in the providence 
 and goodnesse of God. 
 
 5 Sept. To Chatham to inspect my charge, with 900/. in my coach. 
 
 7. Came home, there perishing neere 10,000 poore creatures weekly ; 
 however I went all along the Citty and suburbs from Kent Streete to 
 St. James's, a dismal passage, and dangerous to see so many coffines 
 expos'd in the streetes, now thin of people ; the shops shut up, and all 
 in mourneful silence, as not knowing whose turn might be next. I 
 went to the Duke of Albemarle for a pest-ship, to wait on our infected 
 men, who were not a few. 
 
 14. I went to Wotton ; and on 16 Sept. to visite old Secretary 
 Nicholas, being now at his new purchase of West Horsley, once mort- 
 gag'd to me by Lord Visct. Montagu : a pretty drie seate on the Downe. 
 Retum'd to Wotton. 
 
 17. Receiving a letter from Lord Sandwich of a defeate given to the 
 Dutch, I was forc'd to travell all Sunday. I was exceedingly perplex'd 
 to find that neere 3000 prisoners were sent to me to dispose of, being 
 more than I had places fit to receive and guard. 
 
 25. My Lord Admiral being come from the fieete to Greenewich, I 
 went thence with him to the Cock-pit to consult with the Duke of 
 Albemarle. I was peremptory that unlesse we had 10,000/. imme- 
 diately, the prisoners would starve, and 'twas proposed it should be 
 
310 CAPTURE OF DUTCH EAST INDIAMEN. THE PLAGUE IN LONDON. 
 
 rais'd out of the E. India prizes now taken by Lord Sandwich. They 
 being but two of the Commission, and so not impower'd to determine, 
 sent an expresse to his Majesty and Council to know what they should 
 do. In the meane time I had 5 vessells with competent guards to keepe 
 the prisoners in for the present, to be placed as I should think best. 
 After dinner (which was at the Generals) I went over to visite his 
 Grace the A. Bishop of Canterbury at Lambeth. 
 
 28. To the Generall againe, to acquaint him of the deplorable state 
 of our men for want of provisions ; return'd with orders. 
 
 29. To Erith to quicken the sale of the prizes lying there, with order 
 to the Commissioner who lay on board till they should be dispos'd of, 
 5000/. being proportion'd for my quarter. Then I deliver'd the Dutch 
 Vice Admiral, who was my prisoner, to Mr. Lowman, of the Marshal- 
 sea, he giving me bond in 500/. to produce him at my call. I exceed- 
 ingly pittied this brave unhappy person, who had lost with these prizes 
 40,000/. after 20 yeares negotiation [trading] in the East Indies. I din'd 
 in one of these vessells, of 1200 tonus, full of riches. 
 
 I October. This afternoone, whilst at evening prayers, tidings were 
 brought me of the birth of a daughter at Wotton, after six sonns, in the 
 same chamber I had first tooke breath in, and at the first day of that 
 moneth, as I was on the last, 45 yeares before. — 4. The monthly fast. 
 
 II. To London, and went thro' the whole Citty, having occasion to 
 alight out of the coach in severall places about buisinesse of mony, 
 when I was environ'd with multitudes of poore pestiferous creatures 
 begging almes ; the shops universaly shut up, a dreadful prospect ! I 
 din'd with my Lord General ; was to receive 10,000/. and had guards 
 to convey both myselfe and it, and so returned home, thro' God's 
 infinite mercy. 
 
 17. I went to Gravesend, next day to Chatham, thence to Maidstone, 
 in order to the march of 500 prisoners to Leeds Castle, which I had 
 hired of Lord Culpeper. I was earnestly desir'd by the learned Sir 
 Roger Twisden and Deputy Lieutenants to spare Maidstone from 
 quartering any of my sick flock. Here Sir Edw. Brett sent me some 
 horse to bring up the reare. This country from Rochester to Maid- 
 stone by the Medway and the Downs is very agreeable for the prospect. 
 
 21. I came from Gravesend, where Sir Jo. Griffith, the Governor of 
 the Fort, entertain'd me very handsomely. 
 
 31. I was this day 45 yeares of age, wonderfully preserved, for which 
 I blessed God for his infinite goodness towards me. 
 
 23 November. Went home, the contagion having now decreas'd 
 considerably. 
 
 27. The Duke of Albemarle was going to Oxford, where both Court 
 and Parliament had ben most part of the summer. There was no small 
 suspicion of my Lord Sandwich having permitted divers commanders 
 who were at the taking of the East India prizes, to break bulk and taka 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 3II 
 
 to themselves jewels, silkes, &c. : tho' I believe some whom I could 
 name fiU'd their pockets, my Lo. Sandwich himselfe had the least 
 share. However he underwent the blame, and it created him enemies, 
 and prepossess'd the Lord Generall, for he spake to me of it with 
 much zeale and concerne, and I believe laid load enough on Lord 
 Sandwich at Oxford. 
 
 8 Dec. To my Lo. of Albemarle (now return'd from Oxon), who was 
 declar'd Generall at Sea, to the no small mortification of that excellent 
 person the Earle of Sandwich, whom the Duke of Albemarle not onely 
 suspected faulty about the prizes, but less valiant ; himselfe imagining 
 how easie a thing it were to confound the Hollanders, as well now as 
 heretofore he fought against them upon a more disloyal interest. 
 
 25. Kept Christmas with my hospitable brother at Wotton. 
 
 30. To Woodcott, when I supp'd at my Lady Mordaunt's at Ashted, 
 where was a roome hung with Pintado, full of figures greate and small, 
 prettily representing sundry trades and occupations of the Indians, 
 with their habits ; here supp'd also Dr. Duke, a learned and facetious 
 gentleman. 
 
 31. Now blessed be God for his extraordinary mercies and preser- 
 vation of me this yeare, when thousands and ten thousands perish'd 
 and were swept away on each side of me, there dying in our parish this 
 yeare 406 of the pestilence ! 
 
 1666. 3 Jan. I supp'd in None-such House,' whither the office of 
 Vhe Exchequer was transferr'd during the plague, at my good friend's 
 Mr. Packer's, and tooke an exact view of the plaster statues and bass 
 relievos inserted 'twixt the timbers and punchions of the outside walles 
 of the Court ; which must needs have ben the work of some celebrated 
 Italian. I much admir'd how it had lasted so well and intire since the 
 time of Hen. VIII. expos'd as they are to the aire ; and pitty it is they 
 are not taken out and preserv'd in some drie place ; a gallerie would 
 become them. There are some mezzo-relievos as big as the life, the 
 storie is of the Heathen Gods, emblems, compartments, &c. The 
 Palace consists of two courts, of which the first is of stone, castle-like, 
 by the Lo. Lumlies (of whom 'twas purchas'd), the other of timber, a 
 Gotic fabric, but these walls incomparably beautified. I observ'd that 
 the appearing timber punchions, entrelices, &c. were all so cover'd with 
 scales of slate, that it seem'd carv'd in the wood and painted, the slate 
 fastened on the timber in pretty figures, that has, like a coate of armour, 
 preserv'd it from rotting. There stand in the garden two handsome 
 stone pyramids, and the avenue planted with rows of faire elmes, but 
 the rest of these goodly trees, both of this and of Worcester Park ad- 
 joyning, were fell'd by those destructive and avaricious rebells in the 
 late warr, which defac'd one of the stateliest seates his Majesty had. 
 
 1 There is a small print of it in Speed's Map of Surrey, but a larger one by Hoefnagle in si 
 Collection of Views, seme in England, but chiefly abroad. Mr. Lysons has copied this in hi« 
 'Environs of Lundoa, edit. 1796, vol. I. p. 153. 
 
312 PESTILENCE ABATED, AND PRESERVED, THOUGH MUCH EXPOSED. 
 
 12. After much, and indeede extraordinary mirth and cheere, all my 
 brothers, our wives and children being together, and after much sorrow 
 and trouble during this Contagion, which seperated our families as well 
 as others, I returned to my house, but my wife went back to Wotton, 
 I not as yet willing to adventure her, the Contagion, tho' exceedingly 
 abated, not as yet wholy extinguished amongst us. 
 
 29. I went to waite on his Majesty, now return'd from Oxford to 
 Hampton Court, where the Duke of Albemarle presented me to him ; 
 he ran towards sne, and in a most gracious manner gave me his hand 
 to kisse, with many thanks for my care and faith fuUnesse in his service 
 in a time of such greate danger, when every body fled their employ- 
 ments ; he told me he was much oblig'd to me, and said he was severall 
 times concem'd for me, and the peril I underwent, and did receive my 
 service most acceptably (tho' in truth 1 did but my duty, and O that I 
 had performed it as I ought !) After this his Majesty was pleas'd to 
 talke with me alone, neere an houre, of severall particulars of my em- 
 ployment, and order'd me to attend him againe on the Thursday 
 following at Whitehall. Then the Duke came towards me, and em- 
 brac'd me with much kindnesse, telling me if he had thought my danger 
 would have ben so greate, he would not have suffer'd his Majesty to 
 employ me in that station. Then came to salute me my Lo. of St. Al- 
 bans, Lord Arlington, Sir William Coventrie, and severall greate per- 
 sons ; after which I got home, not being very well in health. 
 
 The Court was now in deepe mourning for the French Queene Mother. 
 
 2 Feb. To London, his Majesty now come to White-hall, where I 
 heard and saw my Lo. Maior (and breathren) make his speech of well- 
 come, and the ^wo Sheriffs were knighted. 
 
 6. My wife and family return'd to me from the country, where they 
 had ben since August, by reason of the contagion, now almost univer- 
 sally ceasing. Blessed be God for his infinite mercy in preserving us ! 
 I having gone thro' so much danger, and lost so many of my poore 
 officers, escaping still myselfe, that I might live to recount and magnifie 
 his goodnesse to me. 
 
 8. I had another gracious reception by his Majesty who call'd me 
 into his bed-chamber, to lay before and describe to him my project of 
 an Infirmarie, which I read to him, who with greate approbation, re- 
 commended it to his R. Highnesse. 
 
 20 Feb. To the Commissioners of the Navy, who having scene the 
 project of the Infirmary, encourag'd the work, and were very earnest it 
 should be set about immediately ; but I saw no mony, tho' a very 
 moderate expense would have saved thousands to his Majesty, and ben 
 much more commodious for the cure and quartering our sick and 
 wounded, than the dispersing them into private houses, where many 
 more chirurgeons and attendants were necessary, and the people temp- 
 ted to debaucherie. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 313 
 
 21. Went to my Lo. Treasurers for an assignment of ^40,000 upon 
 the two last quarters for support of the next yeares charge. Next day 
 to Duke of Albemarle and Secretary of State, to desire them to propose 
 it to the Council. 
 
 I Mar. To London, and presented his Majesty my book intituled 
 ' The pernicious Consequences of the new Heresy of the Jesuits against 
 Kings and States.' 
 
 7. Dr. Sandcroft, since Abp. of Canterbuiy, preached before the 
 King about the identity and immutabiUty of God, on the 102 Psalm 27. 
 
 13. To Chatham, to view a place design'd for an Infirmarie. 
 
 15. My charge now amounted to neere ;£.7ooo [weekly.] 
 
 22. The Royal Society re-assembled after the dispersion from the 
 contagion. 
 
 24. Sent jr.2ooo to Chatham. 
 
 I Aprill. To London, to consult about ordering the natural rarities 
 belonging to the repositorie of the Royall Society ; was referred to a 
 Committee. 
 
 10. Visited Sir William D'Oylie, surprized with a fit of apoplexie, 
 and in extreame danger. 
 
 11. Dr. Bathurst preached before the King, from 'I say unto you 
 all, watch'— a seasonable and most excellent discourse. When his 
 Majesty came from Chapell, he call'd to me in the Lobby, and told me 
 he must now have me sworn for a Justice of Peace (having long since 
 made me of the Commission), which I declin'd as inconsistent with the 
 other service I was engag'd in, and humbly desired to be excused. 
 After dinner, waiting on him, I gave him the first notice of the Spa- 
 niards referring the umpirage of the Peace 'twixt them and Portugal to 
 the French King, which came to me in a letter from France before the 
 Secretaries of State had any newes of it. After this his Majestie againe 
 asked me if I had found out any able person about our parts that might 
 supply my place of Justice of Peace (the office in the world I had most 
 industriously avoided, in reguard of the perpetual trouble thereoff in 
 these numerous parishes), on which I nominated one, whom the King 
 commanded me to give immediate notice of to my Lord Chancellor, 
 and I should be excus'd ; for which I rendered his Majestie many thanks. 
 — From thence I went to the Royal Society, where I was chosen by 27 
 voices to be one of their Council for the ensuing yeare ; but upon my 
 earnest suite, in respect of my other affaires, I got to be excused; — and 
 so went home. 
 
 15. Our parish was now more infected with the plague than ever, 
 and so was all the countrie about, tho' almost quite ceas'd at London. 
 
 24. To London about our Mint Commission, and sat in the inner 
 Court of Wards. 
 
 8 May. To Queenboro', where finding the Richmond Fregate, I 
 sail'd to the Buoy of the Nore to my Lo. General and Prince Rupert, 
 
314 ACTION AT SEA. A VICTORY, BUT WITH GREAT LOSS TO US. 
 
 where was the rendezvous of the most glorious Fleet in the world, now 
 preparing to meete the Hollander. — Went to visite my Co. Hales at a 
 sweetly-water'd place at Chilston neere Bockton. The next morning 
 to Leedes Castle, once a famous hold, now hired by me of my Lord 
 Culpeper for a prison. Here I flowed the drie moate, made a new 
 drawbridge, brought spring water into the court of the castle to an old 
 fountaine, and tooke order for the repaires. 
 
 22. Waited on my Lo. Chancellor at his new palace ; and Lord 
 Berkeley's built next to it. 
 
 24. Dined with Lord Cornbury, now made L. Chamberlaine to the 
 Oueene ; who kept a very honorable table. 
 
 I June. Being in my garden at 6 o'clock in the evening, and hear- 
 ing the greate gunns go thick off, I tool<e horse, and rod that night 
 to Rochester ; thence next day towards the Downes and sea-coast, but 
 meeting the Lieutenant of the Hampshire Fregat, who told me what 
 pass'd, or rather what had not pass'd, I return'dto London, there being 
 no noise or appearance at Deale, or on that coast, of any engagement. 
 Recounting this to his Majesty, whom I found at St. James's Park, im- 
 patiently expecting, and knowing that Prince Rupert was loose about 
 3 at St. Helen's Point at N. of the Isle of Wight, it greately rejoic'd 
 him ; but he was astonish'd when I assur'd him they heard nothing of 
 the guns in the Downs, nor did the Lieutenant, who landed there by 5 
 that morning. 
 
 3 June. Whitsunday. After sermon came newes that the Duke of 
 Albemarle was still in fight, and had ben all Saturday, and that Capt. 
 Harman's ship (the Henrie) was like to be burnt. Then a letter from 
 Mr. Bertie that Pr. Rupert was come up with his squadron (according 
 to my former advice of his being loose and in the way), and put new 
 courage into our Fleete, now in a manner yielding ground, so that now 
 we were chasing the chasers ; that the Duke of Albemarle was slightly 
 wounded, and the rest still in greate danger. So having ben much wearied 
 with my journey, I slipp'd home, the gunns still roaring fiercely. 
 
 5. I went this morning to London, where came severall particulars 
 of the fight. 
 
 6. Came Sir Dan. Harvey from the Generall, and related the dread- 
 full encounter, on which his Majesty commanded me to dispatch an 
 extraordinary physitian and more chirurgeons. 'Twas on the solemn 
 fast day when the newes came ; his Majesty being in the Chapell, made 
 a suddaine stop to heare the relation, which being with much advantage 
 on our side, his Majesty commanded that publiq thanks should im- 
 mediately be given as for a victory. The Deane of the Chapell going 
 down to give notice of it to the other Deane officiating ; and notice was 
 likewise sent to St. Paul's and Westminster Abby. But this was no 
 sooner over, than newes came that our losse was very greate both in 
 ships and men ; that the Prince fregat was burnt, and as noble a vessell 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 31 5 
 
 of 90 brass guns lost, and the taking of Sir Geo. Ayscue, and exceed- 
 ing shattering of both Fleetes, so as both being obstinate, both parted 
 rather for want of ammunition and taclcle than courage, our Generall 
 retreating like a lyon ; which exceedingly abated of our former joy. 
 There was however order given for bonfires and bells ; but God knows 
 it was rather a deliverance than a triumph. So much it pleased God to 
 humble our late over-confidence that nothing could withstand the Duke 
 of Albemarle, who in good truth made too forward a reckoning of his 
 successe now, because he had once beaten the Dutch in another quarrell, 
 and being ambitious to outdo the Earle of Sandwich, whom he had 
 prejudicated as deficient in courage. 
 
 7. I sent more chirurgeons, linnen, medicaments, &c. to the severall 
 ports in my district. 
 
 8. ^ Dined with me Sir Alexander Fraser, prime physitian to his 
 Majestie ; afterwards went on board his Majesty's pleasure-boate, when 
 I saw the London Frigate launch'd, a most stately ship, built by the 
 Citty to supply that which was burnt by accident some time since. The 
 King, Lord Maior and Sheriffs, being there with a greate banquet. 
 
 II. Trinity Monday, after a sermon, applied to the re-meeting of 
 the Corporation of the Trinity House after the late raging and wasting 
 pestilence: I dined with them in their new roome in Deptford, the first 
 time since it was rebuilt. 
 
 15. I went to Chatham. — 16. In the Jemmy Yactht (an incom- 
 parable sailer) to sea, ariv'd by noone at the Fleete at the Buoy of the 
 Nore, din'd with Prince Rupert and the Generall. 
 
 17. Came his Majesty, the Duke, and many Noblemen. After 
 Council we went to prayers. My business being dispatch'd, I return'd 
 to Chatham, having layne but one night in the Royal Charles ; we had 
 a tempestuous sea. I went on shore at Sheerness, where they were 
 building an arsenal for the Fleete, and designing a royal fort with a 
 receptacle for greate ships to ride at anker ; but here I beheld the sad 
 spectacle, more than halfe that gallant bulwark of the kingdom miser- 
 ably shatter'd, hardly a vessell intire, but appearing rather so many 
 wrecks and hulls, so cruely had the Dutch mangl'd us. The losse of 
 the Prince, that gallant vessell, had ben a loss to be universally deplor'd 
 none knowing for what reason we first engag'd in this ungrateful warr ; 
 we lost besides 9 or 10 more, and neere 600 men slaine and 1 100 
 wounded, 2000 prisoners ; to ballance which perhaps we might destroy 
 18 or 20 of the enemies ships, and 7 or 800 poore men. 
 
 18. Weary of this sad sight I return'd home. 
 
 2 July. Came Sir Jo. Duncomb^ and Mr. Thomas Chichley, both 
 
 1 'Duncorab was a judicious man, but very iiauglity, and apt to raise eaemies against him- 
 self. He was an able Parliament man, but could not go into all the designs of the Court, for 
 he had a sense of religion, and a zeal for the liberty of his country." Ep, Burnet's Hist, of his 
 Own Times, fol., iK>V I p. 265. 
 
3l6 SOLEMN FAST DAY. THE DUTCH FLEET AGAIN BEATEN. 
 
 Privy Councillors and Commissioners of his Majesty's Ordnance, to 
 visite me and let me know that his Majesty had in Council nominated 
 me to be one of the Commissioners for regulating the farming and 
 making of Saltpetre thro' the whole kingdom, and that we were to sit 
 in the Tower the next day. When they were gone, came to see me 
 Sir John Cotton, heir to the famous Antiquary Sir Robeit Cotton: who 
 was a pretended greate Grecian, but had by no meanes the parts or 
 genius of his grandfather. 
 
 3. I went to sit with the Commissioners at the Tower, where our 
 Commission being read, we made some progresse in businesse, our Sec- 
 retary being Sir Geo. Wharton, that famous mathematician who writ 
 the yearly Almanac during his Majesty's troubles. Thence to Painters 
 Hall, to our other Commission, and dined at my Lord Maior's. 
 
 4. The solemn Fast Day. Doctor Megot preach 'd an excellent dis- 
 course before the King on the terrors of God's judgements. After ser- 
 mon I waited on my Lord Abp. of Canterbury and Bp. of Winchester, 
 where the Deane of Westminster spake to me about putting into my 
 hands the disposal of ^.50 which the charitable people at Oxford had 
 sent to be distributed among the sick and wounded seamen since the 
 battaile. Hence I went to the Lord Chancellor's, to joy him of his 
 Royal Highnessess second sonne now born at St. James's, and to de- 
 sire the use of the Star Chamber for our Commissioners to meete in, 
 Painters Hall not being so convenient. 
 
 12. We sat the first time in the Star Chamber. There was now 
 added to our Commission Sir Geo. Downing (one that had ben a great 
 .... against his Majesty but now insinuated into his favour, and from 
 a pedagogue and frantic preacher not worth a groate had become exces- 
 sive rich) to inspect the hospitals and treate about prisons. 
 
 13. Satat the Tower with Sir J. Duncomb and Lo. Berkeley to signe 
 deputations for undertakers to furnish their proportions of saltpetre. 
 
 17. To London to prepare for the next engagement of the Fleetes, 
 now gotten to sea againe. 
 
 22. Our parish still infected with the contagion. 
 
 25. The Fleetes engag'd. I dined at Lord Berkeley's at St. James's, 
 where din'd my Lady Harrietta Hyde, Lord Arlington, and Sir John 
 Duncomb. 
 
 29. The pestilence now afresh increasing in our parish, I forbore 
 going to church. In the afternoone came tidings of our victorie over 
 the Dutch, sinking some and driving others aground and into their ports. 
 
 I Aug. I went to Dr. KefHer, who married the daughter of the 
 famous chymist Drebbell, inventor of the boedied scarlet. I went to 
 see his yron ovens, made portable (formerly) for the Pr. of Orange's 
 army: supp'd at the Rhenish Wine House with divers Scots gentlemen. 
 
 6. Dined with Mr. Povey, and then went with him to see a coun- 
 try-house he had bought neere Brainford : returning by Kensington, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 317 
 
 which house stands to a very graceful avenue of trees, but 'tis an 01 di- 
 nary building, especialy one part. 
 
 8. Dined at Sir Stephen Fox's with severall friends, and on tlie toth 
 with Mr. Odart, Secretary of the Latine tongue. 
 
 17. Din'd with the Lo. Chancellor, whom I entreated to visite chc 
 Hospital of the Savoy, and reduce it (after the greate abuse that had 
 ben continu'd) to its original institution for the benefit of the poore, 
 which he promis'd to do. 
 
 25. Waited on Sir William D'Oylie, now recover'd as it were mi- 
 raculously. In the afternoone visited the Savoy Hospital ; where I 
 staled to see the miserably dismember'd and wounded men dressed, 
 and gave some necessary orders. Then to my Lo. Chancellor, who 
 had, with the Bishop of London and others in the Commission, chosen 
 me one of the three Surveyors of the repaires of Paules, and to con- 
 sider of a model for the new building, or, if it might be, repairing of the 
 steeple, which was most decay'd. 
 
 26 The Contagion still continuing, we had the Church service at 
 home. 
 
 27. I went to St. Paule's Church, where with Dr. Wren, Mr. Prat, 
 Mr. May, Mr. Tbos. Chichley, Mr. Shngsby, the Bishop of London, 
 the Deane ' of St. Paule's and several expert workmen, we went about 
 to survey the generall decay* of that ancient and venerable church, and 
 to set downe in writing the particulars of what was fit to be don, with 
 the charge thereof, giving our opinion from article to article. Finding 
 the maine building to recede outwards, it was the opinion of Mr. Chich- 
 ley and Mr. Prat that it had ben so built ad origine for an effect in per- 
 spective, in regard of the height ; but I was, wiih Dr. ^Vren, quite of 
 another judgment, and so we entered it ; we plumb'd the uprights in 
 severall places. When we came to the steeple, it was deliberated 
 whether it were not well enough to repaire it onely on its old foundation, 
 with reservation to the 4 pillars ; this Mr. Chichley and Mr. Prat were 
 also for, but we totaly rejected it, and persisted that it requir'd a new 
 foundation, not onely in reguard of the necessitie, but for that the shape 
 of what stood was very meane, and we had a mind to build it with a 
 noble cupola, a forme of church-building not as yet known in England, 
 but of wonderfull grace: for this purpose we offer'd to bring in a plan 
 and estimate, which, after much contest, was at last assented to, and 
 that we should nominate a Committee of able workemen to examine the 
 present foundation. This concluded, we drew all up in writing, and so 
 went with my Lord Bishop to the Deanes. 
 
 28. Sate at the Star Chamber. Next day to the Royal Society, 
 where one Mercator, an excellent mathematician, produced his rare 
 clock and new motion to performe the equations, and Mr. Rooke his 
 new pendulum. 
 
 1 Dr Sancroft, afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
31 8 THE ORIGIN, PROGRESS, AND EFFECTS OF THE GREAT FIRE. 
 
 2 Sept. This fatal night about ten, began that deplorable fire neere 
 Fish Streete in London. 
 
 3. I had public prayers at home. The fire continuing, after dinner 
 I took coach with my wife and sonn and went to the Bank side in 
 Southwark, where we beheld the dismal spectacle, the whole Citty in 
 dreadfull flames neare the water side ; all the houses from the Bridge, 
 all Thames Street, and upwards towards Cheapeside, downe to the 
 Three Cranes, were now consum'd : and so returned exceedinge aston- 
 ished what would become of the rest. 
 
 The fire having continu'd all this night (if I may call that night 
 which was light as day for ten miles round about, after a dreadfull 
 manner) when conspiring with a fierce Eastern wind in a very drie 
 season ; I went on foote to the same place, and saw the whole South 
 part of the Citty burning from Cheapeside to the Thames, and all along 
 Cofnehill (for it likewise kindl'd back against the wind as well as for- 
 ward). Tower Streete, Fen-church Streete, Gracious Streete, and so 
 along to Bainard's Castle, and was now taking hold of St. Paule's 
 Church, to which the scaffolds contributed exceedingly. The confla- 
 gration was so universal, and the people so astonish'd, that from the be- 
 ginning, I know not by what despondency or fate, they hardly stirr'd 
 to quench it, so that there was nothing heard or seene but crying out 
 and lamentation, running about like distracted creatures, without at all 
 attempting to save even their goods ; such a strange consternation there 
 was upon them, so as it burned both in breadth and length, the Churches, 
 Public Halls, Exchange, Hospitals, IVIonuments, and ornaments, leap- 
 ing after a prodigious manner from house to house and streete to 
 streete, at greate distances one from the other ; for the heate with a 
 long set of faire and warme weather had even ignited the aire and pre- 
 par'd the materials to conceive the fire, which devour'd after an in- 
 credible manner houses, furniture, and every thing. Here we saw the 
 Thames cover'd with goods floating, all the barges and boates laden 
 with what some had time and courage to save, as, on the other, the 
 carts, &c. carrj'ing out to the fields, which for many miles were strew'd 
 with moveables of all sorts, and tents erecting to shelter both people 
 and what goods they could get away. Oh the miserable and calamit- 
 ous spectacle ! such as happly the world had not seene the like since 
 the foundation of it, nor be outdon till the universal conflagration of it. 
 All the skie was of a fiery aspect, like the top of a burning oven, and 
 the light seene above 40 miles round about for many nights. God grant 
 mine eyes may never behold thehke, who now saw above 10.000 houses 
 all in one flame ; the noise and cracking and thunder of the impetuous 
 flames, the shreiking of women and children, the hurry of people, the 
 fall of Towers, Houses and Churches, was like an hideous storme, and 
 the aire all about so hot and inflam'd that at the last one was not able 
 to approch it, so that they were forc'd to stand still and let the flames 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 319 
 
 bum on, which they did for neere two miles in length and one in bredth. 
 The clowds also of smoke were dismall and reach'd upon computation 
 neer 56 miles in length. Thus I left it this afternoone burning, a re- 
 semblance of Sodom, or the last day. It forcibly call'd to my mind 
 that passage — non enim hie habemus stabilem civitatem : the ruines 
 resembling the picture of Troy. London was, but is no more ! Thus 
 I returned home. 
 
 Sept. 4. The burning still rages, and it was now gotten as far as th( 
 Inner Temple ; all Fleet Streete, the Old Bailey, Ludgate Hill, War- 
 wick Lane, Newgate, Paules Chaine, Watling Streete, now flaming, 
 and most of it reduc'd to ashes ; the stones of Paules flew like granados, 
 the mealting lead running downe the streetes in a streame, and the very 
 pavements glowing with fiery rednesse, so as no horse nor man was 
 able to tread on them, and the demolition had stopp'd all the passages, 
 so that no help could be applied. The Eastern wind still more impe- 
 tuously driving the flames forward. Nothing but the Almighty power 
 of God was able to stop them, for vaine was the help of man. 
 
 5. It crossed towards Whitehall ; but oh, the confusion there was 
 then at that Court ! It pleas'd his Majesty to command me among the 
 rest to looke after the quenching of Fetter Lane end, to preserve if 
 possible that part of Holborn whilst the rest of the gentlemen tooke 
 their several posts, some at one part, some at another (for now they 
 began to bestir themselves, and not till now, who hitherto had stood as 
 men intoxicated, with their hands acrosse) and began to consider that 
 nothing was likely to put a stop but the blowing up of so many houses 
 as might make a wider gap than any had yet ben made by the ordinary 
 method of pulling them downe with engin es ; this some stout seamen pro- 
 pos'd early enough to have sav'd nearly the whole Citty, but this some 
 tenacious and avaritious men, aldermen, &c. would not permitt, because 
 their houses must have ben of the first. It was therefore now com- 
 manded to be practic'd, and my concerne being particularly for the 
 Hospital of St. Bartholomew neere Smithfield, where I had my wounded 
 and sick men, made me the more diligent to promote it ; nor was my 
 care for the Savoy lesse. It now pleas'd God by abating the wind, and 
 by the Industrie of the people, when almost all was lost, infusing a new 
 spirit into them, that the furie of it began sensibly to abate about noone, 
 so as it came no farther than the Temple Westward, nor than the 
 entrance of Smithfield North : but continu'd all this day and night so 
 impetuous toward Cripple-gate and the Tower as made us all despaire ; 
 it also brake out againe in the Temple, but the courage of the multi- 
 tude persisting, and many houses being blown up, such gaps and 
 desolations were soone made, as with the former three days consump- 
 tion, the back fire did not so vehemently urge upon the rest as formerly. 
 There was yet no standing neere the burning and glowing ruines by 
 neere a furlongs space. 
 
320 STATE OF LONDON AFTER THE FIRE. ST. PAUL'S A RUIN. 
 
 The coale and wood wharfes and magazines of oyle, rosin, &c. did 
 infinite mischeife, so as the invective which a little before I had dedi- 
 cated to his Majesty and publish'd,' giving warning what might probably 
 be the issue of sutfering those shops to be in the Citty, was look'd on 
 ^s a prophecy. 
 
 The poore inhabitants were dispers'd about St. George's Fields, and 
 Moorefields, as far as Highgate, and severall miles in circle, some under 
 tents, some under miserable hutts and hovells, many without a rag or 
 any necessary utensills, bed or board, who from dehcatenesse, riches, 
 and easy accomodations in stately and well furnish'd houses, were now 
 reduced to extreamest misery and poverty. 
 
 In this calamitous condition I return'd with a sad heart to my house, 
 blessing and adoring the distinguishing mercy of God to me and mine, 
 who in the midst of all this ruine was like Lot, in my little Zoar, were 
 safe and sound. 
 
 Sept. 6, Thursday. I represented to his Majesty the case of the 
 French prisoners at war in my custodie, and besought him that there 
 might be still the same care of watching at all places contiguous to 
 unseised houses. It is not indeede imaginable how extraordinary the 
 vigilance and activity of the King and the Duke was, even labouring 
 in person, and being present to command, order, reward, or encourage 
 workmen, by which he shewed his affection to his people and gained 
 theirs. Having t!" ";n dispos'd of some under cure at the Savoy, I re- 
 turn'd to White-hall, where I din'd at Mr. Offley's,' the groome por*er. 
 who was my relation. 
 
 7. I went this morning on foote from White-hall as far as London 
 Bridge, thro' the late Fleete Street, Ludgate Hill, by St. Paules, 
 Cheapeside, Exchange, Bishopsgate, Aldersgate, and out to Moorefields, 
 thence thro' Cornehill, &c. with extraordinary difficulty, clambering 
 over heaps of yet smoking rubbish, and frequently mistaking where 1 
 was. The ground under my feete so hot, that it even burnt the soles 
 of my shoes. In the mean time his Majesty got to the Tower by 
 water, to demolish the houses about the graff, which being built intirely 
 about it, had they taken fire and attack'd the White Tower where the 
 magazine of powder lay, would undoubtedly not only have beaten 
 downe and destroyed all the bridge, but sunke and torne the vessells in 
 the river, and render'd the demolition beyond all expression for several 
 miles about the countrey. 
 
 At my returne I was infinitely concern'd to find that goodly Church 
 St. Paules now a sad ruine, and that beautifull portico (for structure 
 comparable to any in Europe, as not long before repair'd by the late 
 King) now rent in pieces, flakes of vast stone split asunder, and nothing 
 
 ' The Fumifugium. 
 
 ' Dr. Offley was rector of Abinger, and donor of farms to Okewood Chapel in the puruth 
 H Wotton. in the oitrona^e of the Evelyn family. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 32I 
 
 remaining intire but the inscription in the architrave, shewing by whom 
 it was built, which had not one letter of it defac'd. It was astonishing 
 to see what immense stones the heate had in a manner calcin'd, so 
 that all the ornaments, columnes, freezes, capitals, and projectures of 
 massie Portland stone flew off, even to the very roofe, where a sheet of 
 lead covering a great space (no lesse than 6 akers by measure) was 
 totally mealted ; the mines of the vaulted roofe falling broke into St. 
 Faith's, which being fill'd with the magazines of bookes belonging to 
 the Stationers, and carried thither for safety, they were all consum'd, 
 burning for a weeke following. It is also observable that the lead over 
 the altar at the East end was untouch'd, and among the divers monu- 
 ments, the body of one Bishop remain'd intire. Thus lay in ashes that 
 most venerable Church, one of the most antient pieces of early piety in 
 the Christian world, besides neere 100 more. The lead, yron worke, 
 bells, plate, &c. mealted ; the exquisitely wrought Mercers Chapell, the 
 sumptuous Exchange, the august fabriq of Christ Church, all the rest 
 of the Companies Halls, splendid buildings, arches, enteries, all in 
 dust ; the fountaines dried up an-d ruin'd, whilst the very waters remain'd 
 boiling ; the voragos of subterranean cellars, wells, and dungeons, for- 
 merely warehouses, still burning in stench and dark clowds of smoke, 
 so that in five or six miles traversing about, I did not see one loade of 
 timber unconsum'd, nor many stones but what were calcin'd white as 
 snow. The people who nowwalk'd about the mines appear'd like men 
 in some dismal desart, or rather in some greate Citty laid waste by a 
 cruel enemy ; to which was added the stench that came from some 
 poore creatures bodies, beds, and other combustible goods. Sir Tho. 
 Gressham's statue, tho' fallen from its nich in the Royal Exchange, 
 remain'd intire, when all those of the Kings since the Conquest were 
 broken to pieces ; also the standard in Cornehill, and Q. Elizabeth's 
 effigies, with some armes on Ludgate, continued with but little detri- 
 ment, whilst the vast yron chaines of the Citty streetes, hinges, barrs 
 and gates of prisons were many of them mealted and reduced to cinders 
 by the vehement heate. Nor was I yet able to passe through any of the 
 narrower streetes, but kept the widest ; the ground and aire, smoake 
 and fiery vapour, continu'd so intense that my haire was almost sing'd, 
 and my feete unsufferably surbated. The bie lanes and narrower streetes 
 were quite fill'd up with rubbish, nor could one have possibly knowne 
 where he was, but by the mines of some Church or Hall, that had some 
 remarkable tower or pinnacle remaining. I then went towards Isling- 
 ton and Highgate, where one might have scene 200,000 people of all 
 ranks and degrees dispers'd and lying along by their heapes of what 
 they could save from the fire, deploring their losse, and tho' ready to 
 perish for hunger and destitution, yet not asking one pennie for reliefe, 
 which to me appear'd a stranger sight than any I had yet beheld. His 
 Hajestv and Council indeede tooke all imaginable care lor their reliefe 
 
 31 
 
322 ALARM IN THE RUINED CITY. LETTER TO SIR S. TUKE. 
 
 by proclamation for the country to come in and refresh them with pro- 
 visions. In the miist of all this calamity and confusion, there was, I 
 know not how, an ai.arme begun that the French and Dutch, with whom 
 wc were now in hostility, were not onely landed, but even entering the 
 Citty. There was in truth some days before greate suspicion of those 
 two nations joyning; and now, that they had ben the occasion of 
 firing the towne. This report did so terrific, that on a suddaine there 
 was such an uproare i>Sid tumult that they ran from their goods, and 
 taking what weapons they could come at, they could not be stopp'd 
 from falling on some of those nations whom they casually met, without 
 sense or reason. The clamor and peril grew so excessive that it made 
 the whole Court amaz'd, and they did with infinite paines and greate 
 difficulty reduce and appease the people, sending troops of soldiers and 
 guards to cause them to retire into the fields againe, where they were 
 watch'd all this night. I left them pretty quiet, and came home suffi- 
 ciently weary and broken. Their spirits thus a little calmed, and the 
 affright abated, they now began to repaire into the suburbs about the 
 Citty, where such as had friends or opportunity got shelter for the pre- 
 sent, to which his Majesty's Proclamation also invited them. 
 
 Still the plague continuing in our parish, I could not without danger 
 adventure to our church. 
 
 lo. I went againe to the mines, for it was now no longer a Citty. 
 
 13 Sept. I presented his Majesty with a survey of the mines, and a 
 plot for a new Citty,' with a discourse on it ; whereupon after dinner 
 
 iSIr, [To Sir Samuel Tuke, Knt. & Bart.] 
 
 It was some foure dayes before the most fatal Conflagration of the (quondam) Citty of Lon- 
 don yet I addressed a few Hnes to you ; Httle thinking I should so soone have had two such 
 dissolutions to deplore : The burning of the best Towne in the World : and the discease of the 
 best ffriend in the World, your excellent Lady. Sir, you know they are but small afflictions 
 that are loquacious — greate ones are silent : & if ever greate ones there were, mine eyes have 
 beheld, & mine cares heard them, with an heart so possess'd with sorrow, that it is not easily 
 expressed ; because the instances have ben altogether stupendous & unparallel'd. But it were 
 in vaine to entertaine you w ith those formal topics, which are wont to be apply'd to persons of 
 lesse fortitude & Christian resignation, though I cannot but exhort you to what, I know, you 
 do — looke upon all things in this World as transitory & perishing ; sent us upon condition of 
 quitting them cherefuUy, when God pleases to take them from us, This consideration alone, 
 (with the rest of those Graces which God has furnish'd you withall) will be able to aleviate your 
 passion, & and to preserve you from succumbing under the pressures, which I confesse are 
 weighty ; but not insupportable : Live therefore, I conjure you, & helpe to restore your deare 
 Country, & toconsolateyour ffriends : There is none alive wishes you more sincere happinesse 
 than my poore family. 
 
 I suppose I should have heard ere this from you of all the concernments ; but impute your 
 silence to some possible miscarriage of your Letters ; since the usual place of addresse is with 
 the reste reduc'd to ashes & made an heape of ruines. I would give you a more particular 
 relation of this calamitous accident ; but I should oppresse you with sad stories, and I question 
 not but they are come too soone amongst you at Paris with all minutenesse & (were it possible) 
 hyperbolies : There is this yet of les se deplorable in it : That, as it pleas'd God to order it, 
 Httle effects of any greate consequence have been lost, besides the houses ; — That our Mer- 
 chands at the same instant in which it was permitted that the tidings should flie over Seas, had 
 so settled all their affaires, as they complying with their forraine Correspondence as punctualy 
 as if no disaster at all had happen'd ; nor do we heare of so much as one that has fail'd. The 
 Exchange is now at Gressham Colledge. The rest of the Ciity (which may consist of ncere a 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 323 
 
 his Majesty sent for me into the Queen's bed-chamber, her Majesty and 
 the Duke onely being present ; they examined each particular, and dis- 
 coursed on them for neere an houre, seeming to be extreamely pleas'd 
 with what I had so early thought on. The Queene was now in her 
 cavalier riding habite, hat and feather, and horseman's coate, going 
 out to take the aire. 
 
 16. I went to Greenewich Church, where Mr. Plume preached very 
 well from this text : * Seeing therefore all these things must be dis- 
 solved,' &c. taking occasion from the late unparalelFd conflagration 
 CO remind us how we ought to walke more holyly in all manner of 
 conversation. 
 
 27. Dined at Sir Wm, D'OyUe's, with that worthy gent. Sir John 
 Holland of Suffolke. 
 
 10 Oct. This day was order'd a generall fast thro' the Nation, to 
 
 7th part) & suburbs peopl'd with new shopps, the same noyse, buisinesse & com'erce, not to 
 say vanity. Onely the poore Booke-sellers have ben indede ill treated by Vulcan ; so many 
 noble impressions consum'd, by their trusting them to the Churches, as thelosse is estimated 
 neere two hundred thousand pounds ; which will be an extraordinary detriment to the whole 
 Republiq of Learning. In the meane time, the King & Parliament are infinitely zealous for 
 the rebuilding of our rulnes ; & I believe it will universally be the employment of the next 
 Spring: They are now busied with adjusting the claimes of each proprietor, that so they may 
 dispose things for the building .after the noblest model: Every body brings in his idea, 
 amongst the rest I presented his Majestic my owne conceptions, with a Discourse annex 'd. 
 It was the second that was seene, within 2 dayes after the Conflagration : But Dr. Wren had 
 got the start of me.^ Both of us did coincide so frequently, that his Majestic was not dis- 
 pleas'd with it, &it caus'd divers alterations ; and truly there was never a more glorious Phce- 
 nix upon Earth, if it do at last emerge out of these cinders, & and as the designe is layd, with 
 the present fervour of the undertakers. But these things are as yet im'ature; & I pray God 
 we may enjoy peace to encourage those faire dispositions : The miracle is, I have never in 
 my life observ'd a more universal resignation, lesse repining among sufferers ; which makes 
 me hope, that God has yet thoughts of mercy towards us : Judgments do not alwayes end 
 where they begin ; & therefore let none exult over our calamities ; — We know not whose turn 
 it may be next. But Sir, I forbear to entertaine you longer on these sad reflections ; but per- 
 sist to beg of you not to suffer any transportations unbecoming a man of virtue ; resolve to 
 preserve your sclfe, if It be possible, for better times, the good & restauration of your Country, 
 Jt the comfort of your Friends & Relations, and amongst them of. Sir, 
 
 Sayes Court, 27th September 1666. Yours, &c., J. E. 
 
 Above is Letter of Mr. Evelyn to Sir S. Tuke on the subject of the Fire, and his plan for re- 
 building the City. Part of this plan was to lessen the declivities, and to employ the rubbish 
 m filling up the shore of the Thames to low water mark, so as to keep the Basin always fuU.^ 
 In a letter to Mr. Oldenburg, Secretary to the Royal Society, 22 Dec. 1666, he says, after 
 mentioning the presenting his reflections on re-building the City to his Majesty, that ' the 
 want of a more exact plot, wherein I might have marked what the Fire had spared, and 
 accommodated my designe to the remaining parts, made me take it as a rasa tabula, and to 
 forme mine idea thereof accordingly : I have since lighted upon Mr. Hollar's late Plan, which 
 looking upon as the most accurate hitherto extant, has caus'd me something to alter what I 
 had so crudely don, though for the most part I still persist in my former discourse, and wiche 
 I heare send you as compleate as an imperfect copy will give me leave, and the suppUment of 
 an III memory, for since that tyme I hardly euer look'd on it, and it was finish'd within two or 
 three dayes after the Incendium.' 
 
 1 Tliese Plans were afterwards printed by the Society of Antiquaries, and have been re- 
 peatedly engraved for the various histories of London ; that by Mr. Evelyn is erroneously in- 
 scribed Sir John Evel'm. 
 
324 CALAMITIES WHICH AFFLICT THE NATION. COURT MORALITY. 
 
 humble us on the late dreadful! conflagration, added to the plague and 
 warr, the most dismall judgments that could be inflicted, but which 
 indeede we highly deserv'd for our prodigious ingratitude, burning 
 lusts, dissolute Court, profane and abominable lives, under such dispen- 
 sations of God's continu'd favour in restoring Church, Prince, and 
 People from our late intestine calamities, of which we were altogether 
 unmindfull, even to astonishment. This made me resolve to go to our 
 parish assemblie, where our Doctor preached on the 19 Luke 41, piously 
 applying it to the occasion. After which was a collection for the dis- 
 tress'd loosevs in the late fire. 
 
 18. To Court. It being the first time his Majesty put himself 
 solemnly into the Eastern fashion of vest, changeing doublet, stiff 
 collar, bands and cloake, into a comely vest, after the Persian mode, 
 with girdle or straps, and shoe strings and garters into bouckles, of 
 which some were set with precious stones,' resolving never to alter it, 
 and to leave the French mode, which had hitherto obtain'd to our 
 greate expence and reproch. Upon which divers courtiers and gentle- 
 men gave his Majesty gold by way of wager that he would not persist in 
 this resolution. I had sometime before presented an invective against 
 that unconstancy, and our so much affecting the French fashion, to his 
 Majesty, in which I tooke occasion to describe the comlinesse and use- 
 fulnesse of the Persian clothing, in the very same manner his Majesty 
 now clad himselfe. This pamphlet I intitl'd ' Tyrannus, or the Mode,' 
 and gave it to his Majesty to reade. I do not impute to this discourse 
 the change which soon happen'd, but it was an identity that I could 
 not but take notice of. 
 
 This night was acted my Lord Broghill's '' tragedy call'd ' Mus- 
 tapha ' before their Majesties at Court, at which I was present, very 
 seldom going to the publiq theaters for many reasons, now as they were 
 abused to an atheistical liberty, fowle and undecent women now (and 
 never till now) permitted to appeare and act, who inflaming severaU 
 young noblemen and gallants, became their misses, and to some their 
 wives ;' witness the Earle of Oxford, Sir R. Howard, P. Rupert, the 
 Earle of Dorset, and another greater person than any of them, who 
 fell into their snares, to the reproch of their noble families, andruine of 
 both body and soule. I was invited by my Lord Chamberlaine to 
 see this tragedy, exceedingly well written, thogh in my mind I did 
 not approve of any such pastime in a season of such judgments 
 ' and calamities. 
 
 21. This season, after so long and extraordinarie a drowth in August 
 
 ^ It would be curious to see a portrait of the King in this costume, which was however shortly 
 after abandoned and laid aside. 
 
 2 Richard Lord BroghiU, created shortly after this Earl of Orrery; he wrote several othej 
 plays besides that here noticed. 
 
 3 Mrs. Margaret Hughes, Nell GwynD, who left the Earl for his Majesty, to whom were 
 added Mrs. Davis and Mrs. Knight. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 325 
 
 and September, as if preparatory for the dreadful! fire, was so very wett 
 and rainy as many feared an ensuing famine. 
 
 28. The pestilence, thro' God's mercy, began now to abate consider- 
 ably in our towne. 
 
 30. To London to our office, and now had I on the vest and sur- 
 coat or tunic as 'twas call'd, after his Majesty had brought the whole 
 Court to it. It was a comely and manly habit, too good to hold, it being 
 impossible for us in good earnest to leave the Monsieurs vanities long. 
 
 31. I heard the signal cause of my Lord Cleaveland pleaded before 
 the House of Lords, and was this day 46 yeares of age, wonderfully pro- 
 tected by the mercies of God, for which I render him immortal thanks. 
 
 14 Nov. I went my winter circle thro' my district, Rochester & other 
 places, where I had men quarter'd and in custody. — 1 5. To Leeds Castle. 
 
 16. I muster'd the prisoners being about 600 Dutch and French, 
 order'd their proportion of bread to be augmented, and provided cloaths 
 and fuell. Monsieur Colbert, Ambassador at the Court of England, 
 this day sent mony from his master the French King to every prisoner 
 of that nation under my guard. 
 
 17. I return'd to Chatham. My chariott overturning on the steepe 
 of Bexley Hill, wounded me in two places on the head ; my sonn Jack 
 being with me was like to have ben worse cutt by the glasse ; but 
 I thanke God we both escaped without much hurt, tho' not without ex- 
 ceeding danger. — 18. At Rochester. — 19. Return'd home. 
 
 23. At London I heard an extraordinary case before a Committee 
 of the whole House of Commons, in the Commons House of Parlia- 
 ment, between one Capt. Taylor and my Lo. Viscount Mordauiit, where 
 after the lawyers had pleaded, and the witnesses ben examin'd, such 
 foul and dishonourable things were produc'd against his Lordship, of 
 tyranny during his government of Windsor Castle, of which he was 
 Constable, incontinence, and suborning witnesses (of which last one Sir 
 Richard Breames was most concerned), that I was exceedingly inte- 
 rested for his Lordship, who was my special friend, and husband of the 
 most virtuous lady in the world. We sate till neere 10 at night, and 
 yet but halfe the Council had don on behalfe of the Plaintiffe. The 
 question then was put for bringing in of lights to sit longer ; this lasted 
 so long before it was determin'd, and rais'd such a confus'd noise among 
 the Members, that a stranger would have ben astonish'd at it. I admire 
 that there is not a rationale to regulate such trifling accidents, which 
 consume a world of time, and is a reproch to the gravity of so greate an 
 assembly of sober men. 
 
 27. Sir Hugh Pollard, Comptroller of the Household, died at 
 White-hall, and his Majesty conferr'd the white staffe on my brother 
 Commissioner for sick and wounded, Sir Tho. Clifford,' a bold young 
 gentleman, of a small fortune in Devon, but advanc'd by Lo. Arlington, 
 
 1 Afterwards Lord Treasurer. 
 
326 CLARENDON HOUSE. MY SONN ENTERED AT OXFORD. 
 
 Secretary of State, to the greate astonishment of all the Court. This 
 gentleman was somewhat related to me by the marriage of his mother 
 to my neerest kinsman Gregory Coale,^ and was ever my noble friend, 
 a valiant and daring person, but by no means fit for a supple and 
 flattering courtier. 
 
 28. Went to see Clarendon House,' now almost finish'd, a goodly 
 pile to see to, but had many defects as to the architecture, yet plac'd 
 most gracefully. After this I waited on the Lord Chancellor, who was 
 now at Berkshire House,' since the burning of London. 
 
 2 Dec. Din'd with me Monsieur Kiviet, a Dutch gentleman pen- 
 sioner of Roterdam, who came over for protection, being of the Prince 
 of Orange's party, now not wellcome in Holland. The King knighted 
 him for some merit in the Prince's behalf. He should, if caught, have 
 ben beheaded with Monsieur Buat, and was brother-in-law to Van 
 Tromp, the Sea Generall. With him came Mr. Gabriel Sylvius, and 
 Mr. Williamson Secretarie to Lord Arlington ; Sir Kiviet came to exa- 
 mine whether the soile about the river of Thames would be proper to 
 make clinker-bricks, and to treate with me about some accomodation 
 in order to making such. 
 
 1667. 9 Jan. To the Royal Society, which since the sad conflagra- 
 tion were invited by Mr. Howard to sit at Arundel House in the Strand, 
 who at my instigation likewise bestow'd on the Society that noble 
 library which his grandfather especialy, and his ancestors had collected. 
 This gentleman had so little inclination to bookes, that it was the pre- 
 servation of them from imbezzlement. 
 
 24. Visited my Lo. Chancellor, and presented my son John to him, 
 now preparing to go to Oxford, of which his Lordship was Chancellor. 
 This evening I heard rare Italian voices, two eunuchs and one woman, 
 in his Majesty's greene chamber next his cabinet. 
 
 29 Jan. To London in order to my son's Oxford journey, who 
 being very early enter'd both in Latin and Greek, and prompt to learn 
 beyond most of his age, I was persuaded to trust him under the tutor- 
 age of Mr. Bohun, fellow of New College, who had ben his preceptor 
 in my house some years before ; but at Oxford under the inspection of 
 Dr. Bathurst, President of Trinity Coll., where I plac'd him, not as yet 
 13 years old. He was newly out of long coates *- 
 
 1 Of this gentleman and his family, seated at Petersham in Surrey, see Hist, of that County. 
 
 2 Since quite demolished. It was situated where Albemarle Street now is. After Lord 
 Clarendon's exile, the Duke of Albemarle occupied this noble mansion, of which there are two 
 engraved views at least, one a small one by JohnDunstail, and another upon a very large scale 
 by J. Spilbergh. 
 
 3 Berkshire or Cleaveland House belonged to the Howards Earls of Berkshire, and stood 
 very near the royal residence. It was afterwards purchased and presented by Charles II. to 
 Barbara Dutchess of Cleveland. It was then of great extent ; she however afterwards sold 
 part, which was built into various houses. 
 
 4 At the Swan Inn at Letherhead in Surrey is a picture of four children, dates of birth be- 
 tween 1640 and 1650 . one of them is a boy about this age, in a coat or vest, reachins almost 
 to his ancles. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 327 
 
 15 Feb. My little booke in answer to Sir Geo. Mackenzie on Soli- 
 tude, was now published, intitled, ' Public Employment and an active 
 Life with its Appanages preferred to Solitude.' ^ 
 
 19. I saw a comedy acted at Court. In the afternoone I saw a 
 wrestling-match for ;^.iooo in St. James's Park, before his Majesty, a 
 world of lords and other spectators, 'twixt the Western and Northern 
 men, Mr. Secretary Morice and Lo. Gerard being the judges. The 
 Western men won. Many greate sums were betted. 
 
 18. I saw a magnificent ball or masque in the Theater at Court, 
 where their Majesties and all the greate Lords and Ladies daunced, 
 it was infinitely gallant, the men in their richly embrodred most 
 becoming vests. 
 
 6 March. I proposed to my Lo. Chancellor Monsieur Kiviet's under- 
 taking to warfe the whole river of Thames, or Key, from the Temple to 
 the Tower, as far as the fire destroied, with brick, without piles, both 
 lasting and ornamental. — Great frosts, snow and winds, prodigious at 
 the vernal equinox ; indeede it had ben a yeare of prodigies in this 
 nation, plague, warr, fire, rains, tempest, and comet. 
 
 14. Saw ' The Virgin Queene,' a play written by Mr. Dryden. 
 
 22. Din'd at Mr. Sec. Morice's, who shevv'd me his library, which 
 was a well-chosen collection. This afternoone I had audience of his 
 Majesty concerning the proposal I had made of buildfng the Key. 
 
 26. Sir John Kiviet din'd with me. We went to search for brick 
 earth in order to a greate undertaking. 
 
 4 April. The cold so intense that there was hardly a leaf on a tree. 
 
 18. I went to make court to the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle 
 at their house at Clerkenwell ', being newly come out of the North. 
 They receiv'd me with great kindnesse, and I was much pleas'd with 
 the extraordinary fanciful habit, garb, and discourse of the Dutchess. 
 
 22. Saw the sumptuous supper in the Banquetting-house at White- 
 hall on the eve of St. George's day, where were all the Companions of 
 the Order of the Garter. 
 
 23. In the morning his Majesty went to Chapell with the Knights 
 of the Garter all in their habits and robes, usher'd by the Heraulds ; 
 after the first service they went in procession, the youngest first, the 
 Sovereigne last, with the Prelate of the Order and Dean, who had about 
 his neck the booke of the Statutes of the Order, and then the Chan- 
 cellor of the Order (old Sir Hen. de Vic) who wore the purse about his 
 neck ; then the Heraulds and Garter King at Arms, Clarencieux, 
 Black Rod. But before the Prelate and Deane of Windsor went the 
 
 1 In a letter to Mr. Cowley 12 Mar. 1666 he apologizes for having written against that life, 
 which he had joined with Mr. Cowley in so much admiring, assuring him he neither was, nor 
 could be, serious. 
 
 2 The Duke spent a princely fortune in the service of Charles I. and II. He wrote on 
 Horsemanship a curious and splendid volume. Part of the old house is still standing in Clerk- 
 enwell Close (1816). 
 
328 INSTALLATION OF KNIGHTS OF THE GARTER. 
 
 Gentlemen of the Chapell, and Choristers singing as they marched ; 
 behind them two Doctors of Musick in damask robes ; this procession 
 was about the Courts of White-hall. Then returning to their stalls 
 and seates in the Chapell, plac'd under each Knights coate annour and 
 titles, the second service began : then the King offer'd at the altar, an 
 anthem was sung, then the rest of the Knights offer'd, and lastly pro- 
 ceeded to the Banquetting-house to a greate feast. The King sat on 
 an elevated throne at the upper end at a table alone, the Knights at a 
 table on the right hand, reaching all the length of the roome ; over 
 against them a cupboard of rich gilded plate ; at the lower end the 
 musick ; on the balusters above, wind musick, trumpets and kettle- 
 drums. The King was serv'd by the Lords and Pensioners, who brought 
 up the dishes. About the middle of the dinner the Knights drank the 
 King's health, then the King theirs, when the trumpets and musick 
 Dialed and sounded, the guns going off at the Tower. At the banquet 
 came in the Queene and stood by the King's left hand, but did not sit. 
 Then was the banquetting stuff flung about the roome profusely. In 
 truth the croud was so greate, that tho' I staied all the supper the day 
 before, I now staied no longer than this sport began for feare of dis- 
 order. The cheere was extraordinary, each Knight having forty 
 dishes to his messe, piled up five or six high. The roome hung with 
 the richest tapessry. 
 
 25. Visited again the Duke of Newcastle, with whom I had ben ac- 
 quainted long before in France, where the Dutchess had obligation to 
 my wives mother, for her marriage there ; she was sister to Lord Lucas 
 and maid of honor then to the Queene Mother ; married in our Chapel 
 at Paris. My wife being with me, the Duke and Dutchess both would 
 needs bring her to the very Court. 
 
 26. My Lo. Chancellor shewed me all his newly-finished and furnish- 
 ed palace and librarie ; then went to take the aire in Hide Park. 
 
 27. I had a greate deale of discourse with bis Majestic at dinner. 
 In the afternoone I went againe with my wife to the Dutchess of New- 
 castle, who receiv'd her in a kind of transport, suitable to her extrava- 
 gant humour and dresse, which was very singular. 
 
 May 8. Made up accounts with our Receiver, which amounted to 
 ^.33,936. IS. 4d. Dined at Lord Cornbury's with Hon Francisco de 
 Melos, Portugal Amdassador and kindred to the Queene : of the party 
 were Mr. Henry Jermaine, and Sir Hen. Mapell. Afterwards I went to 
 Arundel House to salute Mr. Howard's sons, who were newly return'd 
 out of France. 
 
 1 1. To London, dined with the Duke of Newcastle, and sate dis- 
 coursing with her Grace in her bed-chamber after dinner, untill my 
 Lord Marquiss of Dorchester with other company came in, when 
 I went away. 
 
 30. To London to wait on the Dutchess of Newcastle (who was a 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 329 
 
 mighty pretender to learning, poetrie, and philosophie, and had in both 
 publish'd divers bookes) to the Royal Society', whither she came in 
 greate pomp, and being receiv'd by our Lord President at the dore of 
 our meeting roome, the mace, &c. carried before him, had several 
 experiments shewed to her. I conducted her Grace to her coach, and 
 rcturn'd hcrnie. 
 
 I June. I went to Greenewich, where his Majesty was trying divers 
 granado's shot out of cannon at the Castle-hill, from the house in the 
 Park ; they brake not till they hit the mark, the forg'd ones brake not 
 at all, but the cast ones very well. The inventor was a German, there 
 present. At the same time a ring was shewed to his Majesty, pretended 
 to be a projection of mercury, and malleable, and say'd by the gentle- 
 men to be fix'd by the juice of a plant. 
 
 10. To London, alarm'd by the Dutch, who were fallen on our 
 fleete at Chatham, by a most audacious enterprise entering the very 
 river with part of their fleete, doing us not only disgrace, but incredible 
 mischiefe in burning severall of our best men of warr lying at anker 
 and moor'd there, and all this thro' our unaccountable negligence in not 
 setting out our fleete in due time. This alarme caus'd me, fearing the 
 enemie might venture up the Thames even to London, (which they 
 might have don with ease, and fir'd all the vessells in the river too,) to 
 send away my best goods, plate, &c. from my house to another place. 
 The alarme was so greate that it put both Country and Citty into a 
 paniq feare and consternation, such as I hope as I shall never see 
 more ; every body was flying, none knew why or whither. Now there 
 were land forces dispatch'd with the Duke of Albemarle, Lord Middle- 
 ton, Prince Rupert, and the Duke, to hinder the Dutch coming to 
 Chatham, fortifying Upnor Castle, and laying chaines and booms ; but 
 the resolute enemy brake thro' all, and set fire on our ships, and retreated 
 in spight, stopping up the Thames, the rest of their fleet lying before 
 the mouth of it. 
 
 14 June. I went to see the work at Woolwich, a battery to prevent 
 them from coming up to London, which Pr. Rupert commanded, and 
 sunk some ships in the river. 
 
 17. This night about 2 o'clock some chipps and combustible matter 
 prepar'd for some fire-ships taking flame in Deptford Yard made such 
 a blaze, and caus'd such an uproar in the Tower, it being given out 
 that the Dutch fleete was come up and had landed their men and fir'd 
 the Tower, as had like to have don more mischeife before people would 
 be persuaded to the contrary and believe the accident. Every body 
 went to their armes. These were sad and troublesome times ! 
 
 I This reminds us of the visit of another greater lady, Queen Christina, to the French Aca- 
 demy, at one of their sittings, recorded by Monsieur PeUisson in his History of that learned 
 body. Queen Caroline, wife of King George II. also affected the company of deep Divines, 
 Scholars, and Philsophers. 
 
330 THE DUTCH BLUCK UP THE THAMES. MY NEW FUEL. 
 
 24. The Dutch fleet still continuing to stop up the river, so as 
 nothing could stir out or come in, I was before the Council, and com- 
 manded by his Majesty to go with some others and search about the 
 environs of the Citty, now exceedingly distress'd for want of fuell, 
 whether there could be any peate or turfe found fit for use. The next 
 day I went and discover'd enough, and made my report that there 
 might be found a great deale ; but nothing further was don in it. 
 
 28. I went to Chatham, and thence to view not onely what mischeife 
 the Dutch had don, but how triumphantly their whole fleete lay 
 within the very mouth of the Thames, all from the North fore-land, 
 Margate, even to the buoy of the Nora — a dreadfull spectacle as ever 
 Englishmen saw, and a dishonour never to be wiped off! Those who 
 advised his Majesty to prepare no fleete this spring deserv'd — I know 
 what — but.' 
 
 Here in the river off Chatham, just before the towne, lay the carkass 
 of the London (now the third time burnt), the Royal Oake, the James^ 
 &c. yet smoking ; and now, when the mischeife was don, we were 
 making trifling forts on the brink of the river. Here were yet forces 
 both of horse and foote, with Gen. Midleton continually expecting the 
 motions of the enemy's fleete. I had much discourse with him, who 
 was an experienc'd commander. I told him I wonder'd the King did 
 not fortifie Sheemesse,^ and the Ferry ; both abandoned. 
 
 2 July. Call'd upon my Lo. Arlington as from his Majesty about 
 the new fuell. The occasion why I was mention'd was from what I 
 had said in my Sylva three yeares before, about a sort of fuell, for a 
 neede, which obstructed a patent of Lord Carlingford, who had ben 
 seeking for it himselfe ; he was endeavouring to bring me into the 
 project, and proffered me a share. I met my Lord ; and on the 9th by 
 an order of council went to my Lord Maior to be assisting. In the 
 mean time they had made an experiment of my receipt of houllies, 
 which I mention in my booke to be made at Maestricht with a mixture 
 of charcoal dust and loame, and which was tried with successe at 
 Gresham CoUedge (then being the exchange for meeting of the mer- 
 chants since the Fire) for every body to see. This done, I went to the 
 Treasury for ;£i2,ooo for the sick and wounded yet on my hands. 
 
 Next day we met againe about the fuell at Sir James Armorer's in 
 the Mewes. 
 
 8. My Lord Brereton and others din'd at my house, where I shewed 
 them proofe of my new fuell, which was very glowing and without 
 smoke or ill smell. 
 
 1 The Parliament giving but weak supplies for the war, the King to save charges is pei* 
 Guaded by the Chancellor, the Lord Treasurer Southampton, the Duke of Albemarle, and 
 the other Ministers, to lay up the first and second rate ships, and mnke only a defensive war 
 in the next campaign. The Duke of York opposed this, but was over-ruled. Life cf Jamei 
 II. vol I. p. 435. ' Since done. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 331 
 
 10. ! went to see Sir Sam. Morland's' inventions and machines, 
 arithmetical wheeles, quench-fires, and new harp. 
 
 17. The Master of the Mint and his Lady, Mr. Williamson, Sir 
 Nicholas Armorer, Sir Edw. Bowyer, Sir Anthony Auger, and other 
 friends, dined with me. 
 
 29 July. I went to Gravesend, the Dutch fleete still at anker before 
 the river, where I saw j of his Majesty's men of war encounter above 
 20 of the Dutch, in the bottome of the Hope, chaceing them with many 
 broadsides given and return'd towards the buoy of the Nora, where the 
 body of their fleete lay, which lasted till about midnight. One ot their 
 ships was fir'd, suppos'd by themselves, she being run on ground. 
 Having seene this bold action, and their braving us so far up the river, 
 I went home the next day, not without indignation at our negligence, 
 and the Nation's reproch. 'Tis well known who of the Commissioneis 
 of the Treasury gav ^ advice that the charge of setting forth a fleete this 
 yeare might be spai'd, Sir W. C. (Will. Coventrie) by name. 
 
 I August. I receiv'd the sad news of Abraham Cowley's death, 
 that incomparable poet and virtuous man, my very deare friend, and 
 was greately deplored. 
 
 3. Went to Mr. Cowley's funerall, whose corps lay at Wallingford 
 House, and was thence convey'd to Westminster Abby in a hearse with 
 6 horses and all funeral decency, neere an hundred coaches of noblemen 
 and persons of qualitie following ; among these all the witts of the 
 towne, divers bishops and cleargymen. He was interr'd next Geofifry 
 Chaucer and neere to Spenser. A goodly monument has been since 
 erected to his memorie. 
 
 Now did his Majestic againe dine in the Presence, in ancient State, 
 with musiq and all the Court ceremonies, which had ben interrupted 
 since the late warr. 
 
 8. Visited Mr. Oldenburg, now close prisoner in the Tower, being 
 suspected of writing intelligence. I had an order from Lord Arling- 
 ton, Secretary of State, which caus'd me to be admitted. This gentle- 
 man was Secretary to our Society, and I am confident will prove an 
 innocent person. 
 
 15. Finish'd my account, amounting to ^.25,000. 
 
 1 Mr. Aubrey says : " Under the Equestrian Statue ofCha. 2. in the great Court at Wind, 
 sor is an engine for raising water, contrived by Sir Sam. Morland, alias Morley. He was son 
 of Sir Sam.. Morland, of Sulhampsted, Barrister, Berks, created Bart, by Cha. 2. in consider- 
 ation of services performed during his exile. The son was a great mechanic, & was pro ■ 
 sented with a gold medal & la^A^ Magister Mechanicorunt by the King in 1681. He invented 
 the drum capstands for weighing heavy anchors : the speaking trumpet, & other usefull engines. 
 He died & was buried at Hammersmith, Middlesex, 1696. There is a monument for the 2 
 wives of Sir Sam. Morland in Westminster Abbey. There is a print of the son by Lombart 
 after Lely. This Sir Sam. the son, built a large room in his garden at Vauxhall, which was 
 much admired at that time. On the top was a punchinello holding a dial." Aubrey's Surrey, 
 vol. I. p. 12. See more ot him in Manning and Bray's History of Surrey, vol- III. 489, 490, 
 491, and Appendix, p. cv. — He is also noticed again several times in this Diary: see particu 
 larly under the year 1681. Sept. 
 
132 FUNERAL OF MR. FARRINGDON. PROCLAMATION OF I'E.'.CE. 
 
 17. To the funerall of Mr. Farringdon, a relation of my wife's. 
 
 There was now a ver>- gallant horse to be baited to death with doggs ; 
 but he fought them all, so as the fiercest of them could not fasten on 
 him, till they run him through with their swords. This wicked and 
 barbarous sport deserv'd to have ben punish'd in the cruel contrivers to 
 get mony, under pretence that the horse had kill'd a man, which was 
 false. I would not be persuaded to be a spectator. 
 
 21. Saw the famous Italian puppet play, for 'twas no other. 
 
 24, I was appointed with the rest of my brother Commissioners to 
 put in execution an order of Council for freeing the prisoners at war in 
 my custody at Leedes Castle, and taking off his Majestys extraordinary 
 charge, having call'd before us the French and Dutch agents. The 
 peace was now proclaimed in the usual forme bytheheraulds. 
 
 25. After evening service I went to visit Mr. Vaughan', who lay at 
 Greenwich, a very wise and learned person, he was one of Mr. Selden's 
 executors and intimate friends. 
 
 27. Visited the Lo. Chancellor, to whom his Majesty had sent for 
 the scales a few days before ; I found him in his bed-chamber very 
 sad. The Parliament had accus'd him, and he had enemies at Court, 
 especialy the buffoones and ladys of pleasure, because he thwarted 
 some of them and stood in their way ; I could name some of the cheife. 
 The truth is, he made few friends during his grandeur among the royal 
 sufferers, but advanc'd the old rebells. He was, however, tho' no con- 
 siderable lawyer, one who kept up the forme and substance of things 
 in the Nation with more solemnity than some would have had. He 
 was my particular kind friend on all occasions. The Cabal, however, 
 prevail'd, and that party in Parliament. Create division at Court con- 
 cerning him, and divers greate persons interceding for him. 
 
 28. I din'd with my late Lord Chancellor, where also din'd Mr. 
 Ashburnham, and Mr. Will. Legg of the Bed-chamber ; his Lordship 
 pretty well in heai't, tho' now many of his friends aud sycophants 
 abandon'd him. 
 
 In the afternoone I went to the Lords Commissioners for mony, and 
 thence to the audience of a Russian Envoy in the Queene's presence- 
 chamber, introduc'd with much state, the souldiers, pensioners, and 
 guards in their order. His letters of credence brought by his secretary 
 in a scarfe of sarsenett, their vests sumptuous, much embroider'd with 
 pearls. He deliver'd his speech in the Russe language aloud, but with- 
 out the least action or motion of his body, which was immediately in- 
 terpreted aloud by a German that spake good English ; half of it con- 
 sisted in repetition of the Zarr's titles, which were very haughty and 
 oriental, the substance of the rest was that he was only sent to see the 
 King and Queene, and know how they did, with much compliment and 
 
 ^ Afterwards Lord Chief Justice. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 333 
 
 frothy language. Then they kiss'd their Majesties hands, and went as 
 they came ; but their real errand was to get money. 
 
 29. We met at the Star Chamber about the exchange and release 
 of prisoners. 
 
 7 September. Came Sir John Kiviet to article with me about his 
 brick-work speculation. 
 
 13. 'Twixt the houres of twelve & one was borne my second 
 daughter, who was afterwards christned Elizabeth. 
 
 19. To London with Mr. Hen. Howard of Norfolk, of whom I 
 obtain'd the gift of his Arundelian Marbles, those celebrated and famous 
 inscriptions Greeke and Latine, gather'd with so much cost and Industrie 
 from Greece, by his illustrious grandfather the magnificent Earle of 
 Arundel, my noble friend whilst he liv'd. When 1 saw these precious 
 monuments miserably neglected and scatter'd up and downe abcrut the 
 garden, and other parts of Arundel House, and how exceedingly the 
 corrosive aire of London impaired them, I procur'd him to bestow them 
 on the University of Oxford. This he was pleas'd to grant me, and 
 now gave me the key of the gallery, with leave to mark all those stones, 
 urns, altars, &c. and whatever I found had inscriptions on them, that 
 were not statues. This I did, and getting them remov'd and pil'd 
 together, with those which were incrusted in the garden-walls, I sent 
 immediately letters to the Vice-Chancellor of what I had procur'd, and 
 that if they esteem'd it a service to the University (of which I had ben 
 a member) they should take order for their transportation. 
 
 This don, 21st I accompanied Mr. Howard to his villa at Albury, 
 where I design'd for him the plot for his canall and garden, with a 
 crypt thro' the hill. 
 
 24 Sept. Returned to London, where I had orders to deliver the 
 possession of Chelsey CoUedge (us'd as my prison during the warr 
 with Holland for such as were sent from the Fleete to London) to our 
 Society, as a gift of his Majesty our founder. 
 
 8 Oct. Came to dine with me Dr. Bathurst, Deane of Wells, Presi- 
 dent of Trinity Coll. sent by the Vice-Chancelor of Oxford, in the 
 name both of him and the whole University, to thank me for procuring 
 the Inscriptions, and to receive my directions what was to be don to 
 shew their gratitude to Mr. Howard. 
 
 II. I went to see Lord Clarendon, late Lord Chancellor and 
 greatest officer in England, in continual apprehension what the Par- 
 liament would determine concerning him. 
 
 17. Came Dr. Barlow, Provost of Queen's CoUedge and Proto- 
 bibliothecus of the Bodleian Library, to take order about the trans- 
 portation of the Arundel Marbles. 
 
 25. There were deliver'd to me two letters from the Vice-Chan- 
 celor of Oxford with the Decree of the Convocation attested by the 
 Publick Notary, ordering four Doctors of Divinity and Law to acknow- 
 
334 PRESENTATION OF THE ARUNDEL MARBLES TO OXFORD. 
 
 ledge the obligation the University had to me for procuring the Mar' 
 viora Arundeliana, which was solemnly don by Dr. Barlow, Dr. 
 Jenkins,' Judge of the Admiralty, Dr. Lloyd, and Obadiah Walker' of 
 University Coll. who having made me a large compliment from the 
 University, deliver'd me the Decree fairly written: 
 
 Gesta venerabili domo Convocationis Universitatis Oxon ; . . 17. 
 1667. Quo die retulit ad Senatum Academicum Dominus Vicecancel- 
 larius, quantum Universitas deberet singulari benevolentiae Johannis 
 Evelini Armigeri, qui pro ea pietate qua Almam Matrem prosequitur 
 non solum Suasu et Concilio apud inclytum Heroem Henricum How- 
 ard, Ducis Norfolciffi hasredem, intercessit ut Universitati pretiosissi- 
 mum eruditEe antiquitatis thesaurum Marmora Arundeliana largiretur ; 
 sed egregius insuper in ijs coDigendis asservandisq ; navavit operam : 
 Ouapropter unanimi suffragio Venerabilis Domus decretum est ut eidem 
 publicas gratiae per delegates ad Honoratissimum Dominum Henricum 
 Howard propediem mittendos, solemniter reddantur. 
 
 Concordat superscripta cum original! coUatione facta per me Ben. 
 
 Cooper Notarium Publicum et Regnarium Universitat. Oxon. 
 'Sir, 
 
 ' We intend also a noble inscription, in which also honorable mention 
 shall be made of yourselfe ; but Mr. Vice Chancellor commands me to 
 tell you that that was not sufficient for your merits, but that if your 
 occasions would permit you to come down at the Act (when we intend 
 a dedication of our new Theater), some other testimonie should be 
 given both of your owne worth and affection to this your old Mother ; 
 for we are all very sensible of this greate addition of learning and 
 reputation to the University is due as well to your industrious care for 
 the Universitie, and interest with my Lord Howard, as to his greate 
 noblenesse and generositie of spirit. 
 
 ' I am. Sir, your most humble servant, 
 
 ' Obadiah Walker, Univ. Coll.' 
 
 The Vice-Chancellor's letter to the same effect were too vaine glo- 
 rious to insert, with divers copies of verses that were also sent me. 
 Their mentioning me in the inscription I totally declin'd when I di- 
 rected the titles of Mr. Howard, now made Lord upon his ambassage 
 to Morocco. 
 
 These fower Doctors having made me this compliment, desir'd me 
 to carry and introduce them to Mr Howard at Arundel House : which 
 I did. Dr. Barlow (Provost of Queenes) after a short speech, delivering 
 a larger letter of the University's thankes, which was written in La- 
 tine, expressing the greate sense they had of the honour don them. 
 After this compliment handsomely perform'd, and as nobly receiVd, 
 Mr. Howard accompanied the Doctors to their coach. That evening I 
 supp'd with them. 
 
 1 Bishop of Lincoln. 2 Afterwards Sir Leonline Jenkins, Secretary ^^ State. 
 
 * Subseque-ntly head of that College. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 335 
 
 26. My late Lord Chancellor was accused by Mr. Seamour in the 
 House of Commons ; and in the evening I returned home. 
 
 31 Oct. My birth-day — blessed be God for all his mercies ! I made 
 the Royal Society a present of the Table of Veines, Arteries and 
 Nerves, which great curiositie I had caus'd to be made in Italy, out of 
 the natural human bodies by a learned physitian, and the help of Vest- 
 hngius (professor at Padua), from whence I brought them in 1646. For 
 this I receiv'd the public thanks of the Society ; and they are hanging 
 up in their Repository with an inscription. 
 
 9 Dec To visit the late Lord Chancellor. I found him in his gar- 
 den at bis new-built palace, sitting in his gowt wheele-chayre, and 
 seeing the gates setting up towards the North and the fields. He 
 look'd and spake very disconsolately. After some while deploring his 
 condition to me, I tooke my leave. Next morning I heard he was gon ; 
 tho' I am persuaded that had he gon sooner, tho' but to Cornbury, and 
 there lain quiet, it would have satisfied the Parliament. That which 
 exasperated them was his presuming to stay and contest the accusation 
 as long as 'twas possible ; and they were on the point of sending him 
 to the Tower. 
 
 10. I went to the funerall of Mrs. Heath, wife to my worthy friend 
 and schoolfellow. 
 
 21. I saw one Carr piloried at Charing-Crosse for a libel, which 
 was burnt before him by the hangman. 
 
 1668. 8 January. I saw deepe and prodigious gaming at the 
 Groome-Porters, vast heapes of gold squander'd away in a vaine and 
 profu se manner. This I looked on as a horrid vice and unsuitable in 
 a Christian Court. 
 
 9. Went to see the Revells at the Middle Temple, which is also 
 an old but riotous costome, and has relation neither to virtue nor policy. 
 
 10. To visite Mr. Povey, where were divers greate Lords to see 
 his well-contrived cellar and other elegancies. 
 
 24. We went to stake out ground for building a CoUedge for the 
 Royal Society at Arundel House, but did not finish it, which we shall 
 soon repent of. 
 
 4 Feb. I saw the tragedy of ' Horace ' (written by the virtuous Mrs. 
 Phillips) acted before their Majesties. 'Twixt each act a masq and 
 antiq daunce. The excessive gallantry of the ladies was infinite, those 
 especialy on that .... Castlemaine esteem'd at £.ipfao and more, 
 far outshining the Queene. 
 
 15. I saw the audience of the Swedish Ambassador Count Donna, 
 in greate state in the Banquetting-house. 
 
 3 Mar. Was launch'd at Deptford that goodly vessell the Charles. 
 I was neere his Majesty. She is longer than the Soveraine, and carries 
 1 10 brasse canon ; she was built by old Shish, a plaine honest carpenter, 
 master builder of this dock, but one who can give very little account 
 
336 GIFT TO THE ROYAL SOCIETY. CAPTAIN COX. LICENTIOUS PLAYS. 
 
 of his art by discourse, and is hardly capable of reading, yet of greate 
 abilitie in his calling. The family have been ship carpenters in this 
 yard above loo yeares. 
 
 12. Went to visit Sir John Cotton, who had me into his library, 
 full of good MSS. Greek and Latine, but most famous for those of the 
 Saxon and English Antiquities, collected by his grandfather. 
 
 2 April. To the Royall Societie, where I subscrib'd 50,000 bricks 
 towards building a CoUedge. Amongst other libertine libels there was 
 one now printed and thrown about, a bold petition of the poore whores 
 to Lady Castlemaine. 
 
 9. To London about finishing my grand account of the sick and 
 wounded and prisoners at war, amounting to above ^.34,000. 
 
 I heard SirR. Howard impeach Sir Wm. Pen in the House of Lords, 
 for breaking bulk and taking away rich goods out of the E. India 
 prizes formerly taken by Lord Sandwich. 
 
 28. To London, about the purchase of Ravensbourn Mills and 
 land around it, in Upper Deptford, of one Mr. Beecher. 
 
 30. We seal'd the deedes in Sir Edward Thurland's chambers in the 
 Inner Temple. I pray God bless it to me, it being a deare penny- 
 worth,but the passion Sir R. Browne had for it, and that it was contiguous 
 to our other grounds, engag'd me. 
 
 13 May. Invited by that expert Commander Capt. Cox, master of the 
 lately-built Charlesthe Second, nowthebest vessell of theFleete,design'd 
 for the Duke of York, I went to Erith, where we had a greate dinner. 
 
 i6. Sir Richard Edgecome of Mount Edgecome by Plymouth, my 
 relation, came to visite me ; a very virtuous and worthy Gent. 
 
 19 June. To a new play with several of my relations, ' The Even- 
 ing Lover," a foolish plot, and very profane ; it afflicted me to see how 
 the stage was degenerated and polluted by the licentious times. 
 
 July 2. Sir Sam.Tuke Bart, and the lady he had married this day came 
 and bedded at night at my house, many friends accompanying the bride. 
 
 23. At the Royall Society were presented divers g'Zossa petrds and 
 other natural curiosities found in digging to build the Fort at Sheere- 
 nesse ; they were just the same as they bring from Malta, pretending 
 them to be vipers teeth, whereas in truth they are of a shark, as we 
 found by comparing them with one in our Repository. 
 
 3 Aug. Mr. Bramstone (son to Judge B.) my old fellow-traveller, 
 now Reader at the Middle Temple, invited me to his feast, which was 
 so very extravagant and greate as the like had not ben scene at any 
 time. There were the Duke of Ormond Privy Seal, Bedford, Belasys, 
 Halifax, and a world more of Earles and Lords. 
 
 14. His Majesty was pleas'd to grant me a lease of a slip of ground 
 
 1 There is no play extant with this name : it may perhaps be a second title to one; Wr. 
 Evelyn frequently mentions only one name of a play that has two. Or it may be Dryden's 
 Comedy of 'An Evening's Love, or The Mock Astrologer,' which is indeed sufficieniif 
 licentious. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 3'/ 
 
 out of Brick Close to enlarge my fore court, for which I now gave him 
 ihanks ; then entering into other discourse, he talk'd to me of a new 
 vernish for ships instead of pitch, and of the gilding with which his 
 new yacht was beautified. I shew'd his Majesty the perpetual motion 
 sent to me by Dr. Stokes from CoUen (Cologne); and then came in 
 Mons. Coluert, the French Ambassador. 
 
 19. I saw the magnificent entrie of the French Ambassador Col- 
 bert, receiv'd in the Banqueting House. I had never scene a richer 
 coach than that which he came in to White-hall. Standing by his 
 Majesty at dinner in the Presence, there was of that rare fruit call'd the 
 King-pine, growing in Barbados and the West Indies, the first of them 
 I had ever scene. His Majesty having cut it up, was plcas'd to give 
 me a piece off his owne plate to taste of, but in my opinion it falls short 
 of those ravishing varieties of deliciousness describ'd in Capt. Ligon's 
 History, and others ; but possibly it might, or certainly was, much im- 
 pair'd in coming so far. It has yet a grateiuU acidity, but tasts more 
 like the quince and melon than of any other fruite he mentions. 
 
 28 August. Publish'd my book of ' The perfection of Painting,'" de- 
 dicated to Mr. Howard. 
 
 17 Sept. I entertain'd Signor Muccinigo the Venetian Ambassador, 
 of one of the noblest families of the State, this being the day of making 
 his publick entrie, setting forth from my house with severall gentlemen 
 of Venice and others in a very glorious traine. He staled with me till 
 the Earle of Anglesea and Sir Cha. Cotterell (Master of the Ceremo- 
 nies) came with the King's barge to carry him to the Tower, where the 
 gunns were fir'd at his landing ; he then enter'd his Majesty's coach 
 foUow'd by many others of the nobility. I accompanied him to his 
 house, where there was a most noble supper to all the companie of 
 course. After the extraordinarie compliments to me and my wife for 
 the civilities he receiv'd at my house, I took leave and return'd. He 
 is a very accomplish'd person. He is since Ambassador at Rome. 
 
 29. I had much discourse with Signor Pietro Cisij, a Persian gent, 
 about the affaires of Turkey, to my greate satisfaction. I went to see 
 Sir Elias Leighton's project of a cart with iron axle-trees. 
 
 Nov. 8. Being at dinner, my sister Evelyn sent for me to come up 
 to London to my continuing sick brother. 
 
 14. To London, invited to the consecration of that excellent person 
 the Deane of Ripon, Dr. Wilkins, now made Bishop of Chester ; it 
 was at Ely House, the Archbp. of Canterbury, Dr. Cosin, Bishop of 
 Durham, the Bishops of Ely, Salisbury, Rochester, and others officia- 
 ting. Dr. Tillotson preach'd. Then we went to a sumptuous dinner 
 in the Hall, where were the Duke of Buckingham, Judges, Secretarief 
 of State, Lord Keeper, Council, Noblemen, and innumerable othei 
 company, who were honourers of this incomparable man, universally 
 bclov'd of all who knew him. 
 
338 ILLNESS OF MY BROTHER, GALLERY AT CLARENDON HOUSE, 
 
 This being the Queene's birth-day, greate was the gallantry at White-' 
 hall, and the night celebrated with very fine fire-works. 
 
 My poore brother continuing ill I went not from him till the 17th, 
 when dining at the Groom Porters I heard Sir Edw. Sutton play excel- 
 lently on the Irish harp ; he plays genteelly, but not approaching my 
 worthy friend Mr. Clark, a gent, of Northumberland, who makes it 
 exceed lute, viol, and all the harmony an instrument is capable of; 
 pity 'tis that it is not more in use ; but indeede to play well takes up 
 the whole man, as Mr. Clark has assur'd me who, tho' a gent of 
 quality and parts, was yet brought up to that instrument from 5 yeares 
 old, as I remember he told me. 
 
 25. I waited on Lo. Sandwich, who presented me with the Sem- 
 brador he brought out of Spaine, shewing me his two bookes of obser- 
 vations made during his ambassy and stay at Madrid, in which were 
 several rare things he promis'd to impart to me. 
 
 27. I din'd at my Lord Ashley's (since Earle of Shaftesbury) when 
 the match of my niece^ was proposed for his onely sonn, in which my 
 assistance was desir'd for my Lord. 
 
 28. Dr. Patrick preach'd at Covent Garden on 17 Acts, 31. the 
 /ertainty of Christ's coming to judgment, it being Advent ; a most 
 suitable discourse. 
 
 19 Dec. I went to see the old play of ' Cataline ' acted, having ben 
 now forgotten almost 40 yeares. 
 
 20 Dec. 1 din'd with my Lord Cornbury at Clarendon House, now 
 bravely furnish'd, especialy with the pictures of most of our ancient and 
 modern witts, poets, philosophers, famous and learned Englishmen ; 
 which collection of the Chancellor's I much commended, and gave his 
 Lordship a catalogue of more to be added.2 
 
 1 Probably the daughter of his brother Richard of Epsom, but who married Mr. Mountagu. 
 
 2 In a letter to the Lord Chancellor dated i8 March 1666-7, ^^- Evelyn says ; 
 
 "My Lord, your Lp. enquires of me what pictures might be added to the Assembly of the 
 Learned and Heroic persons of England which your Lp. has already collected ; the designe 
 of which I do infinitely more magnifie than the most famous heads of Foreigners which do not 
 concern the glory of our Country : and it is in my opinion the most honorable ornament, the 
 most becoming and obliging, which your Lp. can thinke of to adome your palace withall; such 
 therefore as seem to be wanting I shall range under these three heads. 
 The Learned. 
 
 Sir Hen. Savell. Wm. Hooker. Ven. Bede. 
 
 Abp. of Armagh, Dr. Sanderson. Jo. Duns Scotus. 
 
 Dr. Harvey. Wm. Oughtred, Alcuinus. 
 
 Sir H. Wotton. M.Philips. Ridley, l^,^^^ 
 
 Sir T. Bodley. Rog. Bacon. Latimer, 1 
 
 G. Buchanan, Geo. Ripley. Roger Ascham. 
 
 Jo. Barclay. Wm. of Occam. Sir J. Cheke. 
 
 Ed. Spencer. Hadrian 4th. t a * i ^^'^* J°*^ Wsston,s 
 
 Wm. Lilly. Alex. Ales. ^^^ ^ \ Jane Grey. 
 
 2 For an account of her see Ballard's Learned Ladies. There is a very scarce volume 0/ 
 Latin Poems by her printed at Prague, 1606. Mr. Evelyn mentions her in his Numismata. 
 She is much celebrated by the writers of her time. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 339 
 
 31. I entertained my kind neighbours according to costome, giving 
 Almiglity God thanlcs for his gracious mercys to me the past yeare. 
 
 1669. I Jan. Imploring His blessing for the yeare entring, I went 
 to church, where our Doctor preached on 65 Psalm 12. apposite to the 
 season and beginning a new yeare. 
 
 3. About this time one of Sir William Penn's sonns had pubhsh'd a 
 blasphemous book against the Deity of our blessed Loid. 
 
 29. I went to see a tall gigantic woman, who measur'd 6 feet 10 
 inches high, at 21 years old, bom in the Low Countries. 
 
 13 Feb. I presented his Majesty with my ' Historie of the Foure 
 Impostors ; ' he told me of other like cheates. I gave my booke to 
 Lord Arlington, to whom I dedicated it. It was novf that he began to 
 tempt me about writing ' the Dutch War.' 
 
 15. Saw Mrs. Philips's ' Horace' acted againe. 
 
 18. To the Royal Society, when Signer Malpighi, an Italian phy- 
 sician and anatomist, sent the Societie the incomparable Historie cf 
 the Silkworme. 
 
 I Mar. Din'd at Lord Arlington's at Goring House with the Bishop 
 of Hereford. 
 
 4. To the Council of the R. Society, about disposing my Lord 
 Howard's Librarie, now given to us. 
 
 16. To London, to place Mr. Christopher Wase about my Lord 
 Ariington. 
 
 18. I went with Lord Howard of Norfolk to visit Sir WiUiam Ducie 
 at Charlton, where we din'd ; the servants made our coachmen so 
 drunk that they both fell off their boxes on the heath, where we were 
 fain to leave them, and were driven to London by two servants of 
 my Lord's. This barbarous custom of making the masters welcome 
 by intoxicating the servants had now the second time happen'd to my 
 coachmen. 
 
 My sonn came finally from Oxon. 
 
 POLITITIANS, 
 Sir Fra. Wakingham. Sir W. Raleigh. Sir T. Smith. 
 
 Earl of Leicester. Cardinal Wolsey. Card. Pole. 
 
 SOULDIEES. 
 
 Sir Fra. Drake. Tho. Cavendish. Talbot. 
 
 Sir J. Hawkins. Sir Ph. Sidney. Sir F. Grevill. 
 
 Sir Martin Frobishcr. E, of Essex. Hor. E. of Oxford. 
 
 * Some of which, tho' difficult to procure originals of, yet happly copys might be found out 
 upon diligent enquiry. The rest I thinke your Lp. has ah-eady in good proportion.' 
 
 Mr. Evelyn, in a letter to Mr. Pepys, dated 12 August, 1689, tells him that the Lord Chan- 
 cellor Clarendon had collected Portraits of very many of our great men ; and puts them down 
 promiicuously as he recollected them. Mr. Evelyn also there gives a list of Portraits which 
 he recommended to be added, a little different from the list gontained in the preceding letter 
 to the Lord Chancellor ; and remarks that ' When Lord Clarendon's design of making this 
 collection was known, every body who had any of the portraits, or could purchase them at any 
 price, strove to make their court by presenting them. By this means he got many excellent 
 pieces of Vandyket andotheroriginalsbyLelyandotherthebesto*"our modem masters.' 
 
34° CHELSEY COLLEDGE. ENCEA'IA OF THE SHELDON THEATRE. 
 
 2 April. Din'd at Mr. Treasurer's where was (with many noble- 
 men) Col. Titus of the bed-chamber, author of the famous piece against 
 Cromwell, ' Killing no Murder.' 
 
 I now plac'd Mr. Wase with Mr. Williamson, Secretary to the Secre- 
 tary of State, and Clerk of the Papers. 
 
 14. I din'd with the Abp. of Canterbury at Lambeth, and saw the 
 Library, which was not very considerable. 
 
 19 May. At a Council of the R. Society our grant was finish'd, in 
 which his Majesty gives us Chelsey CoUedge and some land about it. 
 It was order'd that 5 should be a quorum for a Council. The Vice- 
 President was then sworn for the first time, and it was propos'd how we 
 should receive the Prince of Tuscany, who desir'd to visit the Society. 
 
 20. This evening at 10 o'clock was borne my third daughter, who 
 was baptized on the 25th by the name of Susanna. 
 
 3 June. Went to take leave of Lord Howard, going Ambassador to 
 Morocco. Dined at Lord Arlington's where were the Earle of Berk- 
 shire, Lord St. John, Sir Robert Howard, & Sir R. Holmes. 
 
 10. Came my Lord Combury, Sir William Poultney, and others, to 
 visite me. I went this evening to London, to carry Mr. Pepys to my 
 brother Richard, now exceedingly afflicted with the stone, who had ben 
 successfully cut, and carried the stone as big as a tennis-ball, to shew 
 him and encourage his resolution to go thro' the operation. 
 
 30. My wife went a journey of pleasure down the river as far as the 
 Sea, with Mrs. Howard, and her daughter the Maid of Honour, and 
 others, amongst whom that excellent creature Mrs. Blagge. 
 
 7 July. I went towards Oxford ; lay at Little Wycomb. — 8, 
 Arrived at Oxford. 
 
 9. In the morning was celebrated the Encenia of the New Theater, 
 so magnificently built by the munificence of Dr. Gilbert Sheldon, Abp. 
 of Canterburj', in which was spent ^.25,000, as Sir Christopher Wren, 
 the architect, (as I remember) told me ; and yet it was never scene by 
 the benefactor, my Lord Abp. having told me that he never did nor ever 
 would see it. It is in truth a fabrick comparable to any of this kind of 
 former ages, and doubtless exceeding any of the present, as this Univer- 
 sity does for Colledges, Librairies, Scholes, Students, and order, all the 
 Universities in the world. To the Theater is added the famous Shel- 
 donian Printing-house. This being at the Act and the first time of 
 opening the Theater (Acts being formerly kept in St. Mary's church, 
 which might be thought indecent, that being a place set apart for the 
 immediate worship of God, and was the inducement for building this 
 noble pile) it was now resolv'd to keep the present Act in it, and cele- 
 brate its dedication with the greatest splendor and formalitie that might 
 be, and therefore drew a world of strangers and other companie to the 
 University from all parts of the nation. 
 
 The Vice Chancellor, Heads of Houses, and Doctors, being seated 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 341 
 
 in magisterial seates, the Vice Cliancellor's chaire and deske, Proctors, 
 &c. cover'd with Brocatall (a kind of brocade) and cloth of gold ; the 
 Universitie Register read the founder's grant and gift of it to the Uni- 
 versitie for their scolastic exercises upon these solemn occasions. Then 
 foUow'd Dr. South, the Universitie's Orator, in an eloquent speech, 
 which was very long, and not without some malicious and indecent 
 reflections on the Royal Society, as underminers of the University, 
 which was very foolish and untrue, as well as unseasonable. But, to let 
 that pass from an ill natur'd man, the rest was in praise of the Arch- 
 bishop and the ingenious architect. This ended, after loud musiq from 
 the corridor above, where an organ was plac'd, there follow'd divers 
 panegyric speeches both in prose and verse, interchangeably pronounc'd 
 by the young students plac'd in the rostrums, in Pindarics, Eclogues, 
 Heroics, &c. mingled with excellent musiq, vocal and instrumental, to 
 entertain the ladies and the rest of the company. A speech was then 
 made in praise of academical learning. This lasted from II in the 
 morning till 7 at night, which was concluded with ringing of bells and 
 universal joy and feasting. 
 
 10. The next day began the more solemn Lectures in all the Facul- 
 ties, which were perform'd in their several scholes, where all the Inceptor 
 Doctors did their exercises, the Professors having first ended their read- 
 ing. The assembly now return'd to the Theater, where the Terrce 
 filius (the Universitie Buffoone') entertain'd the auditorie with a tedious, 
 abusive, sarcastical rhapsodic, most unbecoming the gravity of the 
 Universitie, and that so grossly, that unlesse it be suppress'd, it will be 
 of ill consequence, as I afterwards plainly express'd my sense of it both 
 to the Vice Chancellor and severall heads of houses, who were perfectly 
 asham'd of it, and resolv'd to take care of it in future. The old face- 
 tious way of raillying upon the questions was left off, falling wholy 
 upon persons, so that 'twas rather licentious lyeing and railing than 
 genuine and noble witt. In my life I was never witnesse of so shame- 
 full entertainment. After this ribauldry, the Proctors made their 
 speeches. Then began the Musick Act, vocal and instrumental, above 
 in the ballustrade corridore opposite to the Vice Chancellor's seatc. 
 Then Dr. Wallis, the Mathematical Professor, made his Oration, and 
 created one Doctor of Musiq according to the usual ceremonies of 
 gowne (which was of white damask), cap, ring, kisse, &c. Next foUow'd 
 the Disputations of the Inceptor Doctors in Medicine, the Speech of 
 their Professor Dr. Hyde, and so in course their respective creations. 
 Then disputed Inceptors of Law, the Speech of their Professor, 
 and creation. Lastly, Inceptors in Theologie ; Dr. Compton (brother 
 to the Earle of Northampton) being junior, began with greate 
 modesty and applause; so the rest. After which Dr. Tillotson, Dr. 
 Sprat, &c. and then Dr. AUestree's speech, the King's Professor, and 
 their respective creations. Last of all the Vice Chancellor, shutting up 
 
342 CONVOCATION AT OXFORD. HAVE A DEGREE CONFERRED ON ME. 
 
 the whole in a panegyrical oration celebrating their benefactor and the 
 rest, apposite to the occasion. 
 
 Thus was the Theater dedicated by the scholastic exercises in all the 
 Faculties with greate solemnity ; and the night, as the former, enter- 
 taining the new Doctors friends in feasting and musiq. I was invited 
 by Dr. Barlow, the worthy and learned Provost of Queene's Coll. 
 
 11. The Act Sermon was this forenoon preach'd by Dr. Hall in St. 
 Maries in an honest practical discourse against Atheisme. In the 
 afternoone the Church was so crowded, that not coming early I could 
 not approach to heare. 
 
 12. Mon. Was held the Divinity Act in the Theater againe, when 
 proceeded 17 Doctors, in all Faculties some. 
 
 13. I din'd at the Vice-Chancellor's, and spent the afternoone in 
 seeing the rarities of the publick libraries, and visiting the noble marbles 
 and inscriptions, now inserted in the walles that compasse the area of 
 the Theater, which were 150 of the most ancient and worthy treasures 
 of that kind in the learned world. Now observing that people ap- 
 proching them too neere, some idle persons began to scratch and iniure 
 them, I advis'd that an hedge of holly should be planted at the fcrot of 
 the wall, to be kept breast-high onely, to protect them, which the Vice- 
 Chancellor promis'd to do the next season. 
 
 14. Dr. Fell,' Dean of Christ-church and Vice-Chancellor, with 
 Dr. AUestree Professor, with Beadles and Maces before them, came to 
 visite me at my lodging. — I went to visite Lord Howard's sons at 
 Magdalen College. 
 
 15. Having two dales before had notice that the University intended 
 me the honour of Doctor-ship, I was this morning attended by the 
 Beadles belonging to the Law, who conducted me to the Theater, 
 where I found the Duke of Ormond (now Chancellor of the Universitie) 
 with the Earl of Chesterfield and Mr. Spencer (brother to the late Earl 
 of Sunderland). Thence we march'd to the Convocation House, a Con- 
 vocation having been call'd on purpose ; here, being all of us rob'd in 
 the Porch in Scarlett with caps and hoods, we were led in by the Pro- 
 fessor of Laws and presented respectively by name, with a short eulogie, 
 to the Vice-Chancellor, who sate in the chaire, with all the Doctors 
 and Heads of Houses and Masters about the roome, which was exceed- 
 ing full. Then began the Publiq Orator his speech, directed chiefly to 
 the Duke of Ormond the Chancellor, but in which I had my compli- 
 ment in course. This ended, we were call'd up and created Doctors 
 according to the forme, and seated by the Vice-Chancellor amongst the 
 Doctors on his right hand ; then the Vice-Chancellor made a short 
 speech, and so saluting our brother Doctors, the pageantry concluded, 
 and the Convocation was dissolved. So formal a creation of Honorarie 
 Doctors had seldome ben seene, that a Convocation should be call'd on 
 
 * Afterwards Bishop of Oxford. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 343, 
 
 purpose and speeches made by the Orator ; but they could do no lesse,. 
 their Chancellor being to receive, or rather do them, this honour. I 
 should have ben made Doctor with the rest at the Publiq Act, but their 
 expectation of their Chancellor made them defer it. I was then led 
 with my brother Doctors to an extraordinary entertainment at Dr. 
 Mewes, Head of St. John's College, and after aboundance of feasting 
 and compliments, having visited the Vice Chancellor and other 
 Doctors, and given them thanks for the honour done me, 1 went towards 
 home the sixteenth, and got as far ai Windsor, and to my house 
 the next day. 
 
 4 Aug. I was invited by Sir Hen. Peckham to his Reading feast in 
 the Middle Temple, a pompous entertainement, where were the Abp. 
 of Canterbury, all the greate Earles and Lords, &c. I had much dis- 
 course with my Lord Winchelsea, a prodigious talker ; and the Vene- 
 tian Ambassador. 
 
 17. To London, spending almost the intire day in surveying what 
 progresse was made in rebuilding the ruinous Citty, which now began 
 a little to revive after its sad calamitie. 
 
 20. I saw the splendid audience of the Danish Ambassador in 
 the Banquetting House at White-hall. 
 
 23. I went to visite my most excellent and worthy neighbour the 
 Lord Bishop of Rochester at Bromely, which he was now repairing 
 after the dilapidations of the late rebellion. 
 
 2 Sept. I was this day very ill of a paine in my limbs, which conti- 
 nued most of this weeke & was increased by a visite I made to my old 
 acquaintance the Earle of Norwich at his house in Epping Forest, 
 where are many good pictures gut into the wainscot of the roomes, 
 which Mr. Baker, his Lordship's predecessor there, brought out of 
 Spaine ; especialy the Historie of yoseph, a picture of the pious and 
 learned Picus Mirandula, and an incomparable one of old Breugle. 
 The gardens were weU understood, I mean the Potagere. I return'd 
 late in the evening, ferrying over the water at Greenewich. 
 
 26. To Church to give God thanks for my recovery. 
 
 Oct. 3. I received the Blessed Eucharist to my unspeakable joy. 
 
 21. To the R. Society, meeting for the first time after a long recesse^ 
 during Vacation, according to custome ; where was read a description 
 of the prodigious Eruption of Mount Etna ; and our English Itinerant 
 presented an account of his autumnal perigrination about England for 
 which we hired him, bringing dried fowls, fish, plants, animals, &c. 
 
 26. My deare brother continued extreamely full of paine, the Lord 
 be gracious to him ! 
 
 Nov. 3. This being the day of meeting for the poore, we din'd 
 neighbourly together. 
 
 25. I heard an excellent discourse by Dr. Patrick on the resurrec- 
 tion ; & afterwards visited the Countesse of Kent, my kindswoman. 
 
3A4 DR. BRETON PREACHES. DEATH OF MY BROTHER. 
 
 8 Dec. To London, upon the second edition of my ' Sylva,' which I 
 presented to the Royal Society. 
 
 1670. Feb 6. Dr. John Breton, Master of Emanuel Coll. in Cam- 
 bridge, (unkle to our Viccar), preached on i John 27, " whose shoe 
 Jatchet I am not worthy to unloose, &c." describing the various 
 fashions of shoes or sandals worn by the Jews & other nations : of the 
 ornaments of the feete : how greate persons had servants that tooke 
 them off when they came to their houses, & beare them after them : by 
 which pointing the dignitie of our Saviour, when such a person as St. 
 John Baptist acknowledges his unworthinesse even ofthatmeane office. 
 The lawfulnesse, decentnesse, and necessitie, of subordinate degrees 
 and ranks of men and servants, as well in the Church as State : 
 against the late levellers and others of that dangerous rabble who 
 would have all alike. 
 
 3 Mar. Finding my brother [Richard] in such exceeding tor- 
 ture, and that he now began to fall into convulsion fits, I solemnly 
 set the next day apart to beg of God to mitigate his sufferings and 
 prosper the onely means which yet remained for his recovery, he 
 being not only much wasted but exceedingly and all along averse 
 from being cut (for the stone) ; but when he at last consented, and 
 it came to the operation and all things prepar'd, his spirit and reso- 
 lution failed. 
 
 6. Dr. Patrick preached in Covent Garden church. I participated 
 of the blessed Sacrament, recommending to God the deplorable con- 
 dition of my deare brother, who was almost in the last agonies of death. 
 I watched late with him this night. It pleased God to deliver him out 
 of this miserable life, towards five o'clock this Moneday morning, to 
 my unspeakable griefe. He was a brother whom I most dearly lov'd 
 for his many virtues ; but two yeares younger than myself, a sober, 
 prudent, worthy gentleman. He had married a greate fortune, and left 
 one onely daughter, and a noble seate at Woodcote neere Epsom. 
 His body was open'd, and a stone taken out of his bladder, not much 
 bigger than a nutmeg. I returned home on the eighth, full of sadnesse, 
 and to bemoane my losse. 
 
 20. A stranger preached at the Savoy French Church : the Liturgie 
 of the Church of England being now used altogether, as translated 
 into French by Dr. Durell. 
 
 21. We all accompanied the corpse of my dear brother to Epsom 
 church, where he was decently interr'd in the chapell belonging to 
 V/oodcote House. A greate number of friends and gentlemen of the 
 country attended, about twenty coaches and six horses, and innu- 
 merable people. 
 
 22. I went to Westminster, where in the House of Lords I saw his 
 Majesty sit on his throne, but without his robes, all the Peeres sitting 
 with their hatts on ; the business oi the day being the divorce of my 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 345 
 
 Lord Rosse. Such an occasion and sight had not ben seene in England 
 since the time of Hen. VIII.' 
 
 5 May. To London, concerning the office of Latine Secretary to 
 his Majesty, a place of more honour and dignitie than profit, the re- 
 vertion of which he had prpmis'd me. 
 
 21. Came to visite me Mr. Henry Savill,and Sir Charles Scarborow, 
 
 26. Receiving a letter from Mr. Philip Howard, Lord Almoner to 
 the Queen,' that Monsieur Evelin, first physitian to Madame (who was 
 now come to Dover to visit the King her brother), was come to towne, 
 greately desirous to see me, but his stay so short that he could not 
 come to me, I went with my brother to meete him at the Tower, where 
 he was seeing the magazines and other curiosities, having never before 
 ben in England: we renew'd our alliance and friendship, with much 
 regret on both sides that he being to returne towards Dover that 
 evening, we could not enjoy one another any longer. How this French 
 famihe, Ivelin, of Evelin in Normandy, a very ancient and noble house, 
 is grafted into our Pedigree, see in the collection brought by me from 
 Paris in 1650. 
 
 16 June. I went with some friends to the Bear Garden, where was 
 cock-fighting, dog-fighting, beare and bull baiting, it being a famous 
 day for all these butcherly sports, or rather barbarous cruelties. The 
 bulls did exceeding well, but the Irish wolfe-dog exceeded, which was a 
 taU greyhound, a stately creature indeede, who beate a cruell mastiff. 
 One of the bulls toss'd a dog full into a lady's lap, as she sate in one of 
 the boxes at a considerable height from the arena. Two poore dogs 
 were kiU'd, and so all ended with the ape on horseback, and I most 
 heartily weary of the rude and dirty pastime, which I had not seene, I 
 think, in twenty yeares before. 
 
 18. Dined at Goring House, whither my Lo. Arlington carried me 
 from White-hall with the Marquis of Worcester ; there we found Lo. 
 Sandwich, Viscount Stafford [since beheaded], the lieutenant of the 
 Tower, and others. After dinner my Lord communicated to me his 
 Majesty's desire that I would undertake to write the History of our 
 late War with the Hollanders, which I had hitherto declin'd ; this I 
 found was iU-taken, and that I should disoblige his Majesty, who had 
 made choice of me to do him this service, and if I would undertake it I 
 
 ^ 'When there was a project, 1669, for getting a divorce forthe King, to facilitate it, there ' 
 was brought into the House of Lords a bill for dissolving the marriage of Lord Rosse, on 
 account of adultery, and to give him leave to marry again. This bill, after great debates, 
 passed by the plurality of only two votes, and that by the great industry of the Lord's friends, 
 as well as the Duke's enemies, who carried it on chiefly in hopes it might be a precedent, and 
 inducement for the King to enter the more easily into their late proposals : nor were they a 
 little encouraged therein, when they saw the King countenance and drive on the bill in Lord 
 Rosse's favour. Of 18 Bishops that were in the House, only two voted for the bill, of wtich 
 one voted through age, and one was reputed a Socinian.' — These, in a note, are said to bo 
 Dr. Cosin, Bishop of Durham, and Dr. Wilkins, Bishop of Chester. 
 
 * Afterwards created Cardinal. 
 
346 LORD STAFFORD. MARRIAGE OF UY NIECE. SIR ROBERT MURRAY. 
 
 should have all the assistance the Secretary's office and others could 
 give me, with other encouragements, which I could not decently refuse. 
 
 Lord Stafford rose from table in some disorder because there were 
 roses stuck about the fruitewhen the discert was set on the table; such 
 an antipathie, it seems, he had to them as once Lady Selenger (St. 
 Ledger) also had and to that degree, that as Sir Kenelm Digby tells 
 us, laying but a rose upon her cheeke when she was asleepe, it rais'd a 
 blister ; but Sir Kenelm was a teller of strange things. 
 
 24. Came the Earle of Huntingdon and Countesse, with the Lord 
 Sherrard, to visite us. 
 
 29. To London, in order to my niece's marriage, Mary, daughter to 
 my late brother Richard, of Woodcot, with the eldest son of Mr. Attor- 
 ney Mountague, which was celebrated at Southampton House Chapell, 
 after which a magnificent entertainment, feast and dauncing, dinner 
 and supper, in the great roome there, but the bride was bedded at my 
 sister's lodging in Drurie lane. 
 
 6 July. Came to visite me Mr. Stanhope, Gent. Usher to her Ma- 
 jestic, and unkle to the Earle of Chesterfield, a very fine man, with my 
 Lady Hutcheson. 
 
 19. I accompanied my worthy friend that excellent man Sir Robert 
 Murray, with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, to see the latter's seate 
 and estate at Burrow Green in Cambridgeshire, he desireing our ad- 
 vice for placeing a new house which he was resolv'd to build ; ' we set 
 out in a coach and six horses with him and his lady, din'd about 
 midway at one Mr. Turner's, where we found a very noble dinner, 
 venison, musiq, and a circle of country ladies and their gallants. 
 After dinner we proceeded and came to Burrow Green that night. 
 This had ben the ancient seate of the Cheekes (whose daughter Mr. 
 Slingsby married), formerly Tutor to K. Edw. VI. The old house 
 large and ample, and built for ancient hospitalitie, ready to fall down 
 with age, plac'd in a dirty hole, a stiffe clay, no water, next an ad- 
 joyning church-yard, and with other inconveniencies. We pitch'd on 
 a spot of rising ground, adorn'd with venerable woods, a dry and sweete 
 prospect East and West, and fit for a parke, but no running water ; at 
 a mile distance from the old house. 
 
 20. We went to dine at Lord Arlington's,' who had newly built 
 a house of greate cost, I believe little less than ;£20,ooo.' His archi- 
 
 1 It is probable that he did not build, and that after his misfortunes, which will be men- 
 tioned hereafter, it was sold. Mr. Lysons, in his Britannia, under Cambridgeshire, says, that 
 what remains of an old brick mansion, is now a farm-house. 
 
 2 Since Constable of the Tower. 
 
 ^ At Horseheath. The Arlingtons seated here before 1239 ; William created an Irish Peer, 
 by the title of Lord Arlington, in 1646. Mr. Lysons says the building cost ;£ 70,000, and with 
 the estate was sold in 1687 to John Bromley, esq. for ^42,000. He expended ;^3o,ooo more 
 on the building. His grandson was created Lord Montford in 1741. In 1776 the second Lord 
 Montford sold the estate, the house being sold in 1777 for the materials, to be pulled down. 
 Lysons' 'Cambridgeshire, p 216, 217. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVLLVX. 347 
 
 tect was Mr. Pratt. It is seated in aparke, with a swcete prospect and 
 stately avenue, but water still defective ; the house has also its infir- 
 mities. Went back to Mr. Slingsby's. 
 
 22. We rod out to see the greate meere or levell of recover'd fen 
 lande, not far off. In the way we met Lord Arlington going to his 
 house in Suffolk, accompanied with Count Ogniati the Spanish Mi- 
 nister, and Sir Bernard Gascoigne ; he was very importunate with me 
 to go with him to Euston, being but fifteen miles distant, but in reguard 
 of my companie I could not. So passing thro' Newmarket, we alighted 
 to see his Majesty's house there, now new building ; the arches of the 
 cellars beneath are well turn'd by Mr. Samuel the architect, the rest 
 meane enough and hardly fit for a hunting house. Many of the roomes 
 above had the chimnies plac'd in the angles and corners, a mode now 
 introduc'd by his Majesty which I do at no hand approve of. I predict 
 it will spoile many noble houses and roomes if foUow'd. It does onely 
 well in very sm-all and trifling roomes, but takes from the state of 
 greater. Besides this house is place'd in a dirty streete, without any 
 court or avenue, like a common one, whereas it might, and ought to 
 have ben built at either end of the towne, upon the very carpet where 
 the sports are celebrated ; but it being the purchase of an old wretched 
 house of my Lord Thomond's, his Majesty was persuaded to set it on 
 that foundation, although the most improper imaginable for a house of 
 sport and pleasure. 
 
 We went to see the stables and fine horses, of which many were here 
 kept at a vast expense, with all the art and tendernesse imaginable. 
 
 Being ariv'd at some meeres, we found Lord Wotton and Sir John 
 Kiviet about their draining engines, having it seemes undertaken to do 
 v/onders on a vast piece of marsh ground they had hired of Sir Thomas 
 Chichley (Master of the Ordnance.) They much pleas'd themselves with 
 the hopes of a rich harvest of hemp and cole seed, which was the crop 
 expected. Here we visited the engines and mills both for wind and 
 water, draining it thro' two rivers or graffs cut by hand and capable of 
 carrying considerable barges, which went thwart one the other, dis- 
 charging the water into the sea. Such at this spot had ben the former 
 Vinter, it was astonishing to see it now drie and so rich that weeds 
 jrew on the bankes almost as high as a man and horse. Here my 
 Lord and his partner had built 2 or 3 roomes with Flanders white 
 bricks, very hard. One of the greate engines was in the kitchen, where 
 I saw the fish swim up, even to the very chimney hearth, by a small 
 cut thro' the roome, and running within a foote of the very fire. 
 
 Having after dinner rid about that vast levell, pester'd with heate 
 and swarmes of gnatts, we return'd over New-market Heath, the way 
 being mostly a sweet turfe and down, like Salisbury Plaine, the jockies 
 breathing their fine barbs and racers, and giving them their heates. 
 
 23 July. We return'd from Burrow Green to London, staying some 
 
348 RED CROSSES ON A WOJIAN'S ARME. THE FRENCH NUNNS. 
 
 time at Audley End to see that fine palace. It is indeede a cheerfull 
 piece of Gotic building, or rather antico moderno, but placed in an 
 obscure bottome. The cellars and galleries are very stately. It has a 
 river by it, a pretty avenue of limes, and in a parke. 
 
 This is in Saffron Walden parish, famous for that usefuU plant, with 
 which all the countrie is cover'd. 
 
 Dining at Bishop Stortford, we came late to London. 
 5 Aug. There were sent me by a neighbour a servant maid, who in 
 the last moneth, as she was sitting before her mistress at work, felt a 
 stroke on her arme a little above the wrist for some height, the smart of 
 which, as if struck by another hand, caused her to hold her arme awhile 
 till somewhat mitigated, but it put her into a kind of convulsion or rather 
 hysteric fit. A gentleman coming casually in, looking on her arme, 
 found that part poudred with red crosses, set in most exact and won- 
 derfuU order, neither swelled nor depressed, about this shape, 
 
 X 
 
 X X 
 
 XXX 
 
 X X 
 
 X 
 
 not seeming to be any way made by artifice, of a reddish colour, not 
 so red as blood, the skin over them smooth, the rest of the arme livid 
 and of a mortified hue, with certaine prints as it were of the stroke of 
 fingers. This had happen'd three severall times in July, at about lo 
 days intervall, the crosses beginning to weare out, but the successive 
 ones set in other different, yet uniforme order. The maide seemed 
 very modest, and came from London to Deptford with her mistress to 
 avoid the discourse and importunity of curious people. She made no 
 gaine by it, pretended no religious fancies, but seemed to be a plaine, 
 ordinary, silent, working wench, somewhat fat, short, and high 
 colour'd. She told me divers divines and physitians had seene her, but 
 were unsatisfied ; that she had taken some remedies against her fits, 
 but they did her no good ; she had never before had any fits ; once 
 since she seem'd in her sleepe to hear one say to her that shg^hould 
 tamper no more with them, nor trouble herselfe with any thifig thai 
 happen'd, but put her trust in the merits of Christ onely. 
 
 This is the substance of what she told me, and what I saw and 
 curiously examin'd. I was formerly acquainted with the impostorious 
 Nunns of Loudune in France, which made such noise amongst the 
 Papists, I therefore thought this worth the notice. I remember Mons. 
 Monconys (that curious traveller and a Roman Catholic) was by no 
 means satisfied with the stigmata of those Nunns, because they were 
 so shy of letting him scrape the letters, which were Jesus, Maria, 
 Joseph (as I think) observing they began to scale off with it, whereas 
 this poore wench was willing to submit to any trial ; so that I profess 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 349 
 
 1 know not what to think of it, nor dare I pronounce it any thing 
 supernaturall. 
 
 26. At Windsor I supp'd with the Duke of Monmouth ; and the 
 next day, invited by Lord Arlington, din'd with the same Duke and 
 divers Lords. After dinner my Lord and I had a conference of more 
 than an houre alone in his bedchamber, to engage me in the Historic. 
 I shew'd him something that I had drawn up, to his greate satisfaction, 
 and he desir'd me to shew it to the Treasurer. 
 
 28. One of the Canons preach'd, then followed the offering of the 
 Knights of the Order, according to custom ; first the poore Knights in 
 procession, then the Canons in their formalities, the Deane and Chan- 
 cellor, then his Majesty (the Soveraine), then the Duke of York, Prince 
 Rupert, lastly the Earle of Oxford, being aU the Knights of the order 
 that were then at Court. 
 
 I din'd with the Treasurer, and consulted with him what pieces I 
 was to add ; in the afternoone his Majesty tooke me aside into the bal- 
 conie over the terrace, extreamely pleas'd with what had ben told him 
 I had begun in order to his commands, and enjoyning me to proceede 
 vigorously in it. He told me he had ordered the Secretaries of State 
 to give me all necessary assistance of papers and particulars relating 
 to it, and enjoyning me to make it a little keene, for that the Hollanders 
 had very unhandsomely abus'd him in their pictures and libells. 
 
 Windsor was now going to be repaired, being exceedingly ragged 
 and ruinous. Prince Rupert, the Constable, had begun to trim up the 
 keepe or high round tower, and handsomely adorned his hall with fur- 
 niture of armes, which was very singular, by so disposing the pikes, 
 muskets, pistols, bandeliers, holsters, drums, back, breast, and head 
 pieces, as was very extraordinary. Thus those huge steepe stayres 
 ascending to it had the walls invested with this martial furniture all 
 new and bright, so disposing the bandeliers, holsters, and drums, as to 
 represent festoons, and that without any confusion, trophy like. From 
 the hall we went into his bedchamber, and ample roomes hung with 
 tapissrie, curious and effeminate pictures ; so extreamely different from 
 the other, which presented nothing but warr and horror. 
 
 The King pass'd most of his time in hunting the stag, and walking 
 in the parke, which he was now planting with rows of trees. 
 
 13 Sept. To visite Sir Richard Lashford, my kinsman, and Mr. 
 Charles Howard at his extraordinary garden at Dipden. 
 
 15. I went to visit Mr. Arthur Onslow at West Clandon, a pretty 
 dry seate oii the Downes, where we din'd in his greate roome. 
 
 17. To visit Mr. Hussey, who being neere Wotton, lives in a sweete 
 vally deliciously watered. 
 
 23. To Alburie to see how that garden proceeded, which 1 found 
 exactly don to the designe and plot I had made, with the crypta 
 thro' the mountaine in the park, 30 perches in length. Such a Pausi- 
 
350 PRINCE OF ORANGE. MADEMOISELLE QUEROUAILLE. 
 
 lippe' is no where in England besides. The canall was now digging, 
 and the vineyard planted. 
 
 14 Oct. I spent the whole afternoon in private with the Treasurer, 
 who put into my hands those secret pieces and transactions concerning 
 the Dutch war, and particularly the expedition of Bergen, in which he 
 had himselfe the cheife part, and gave me instructions, till the King 
 ariving from New-market we both went up into his bedchamber. 
 
 21. Din'd with the Treassurer, and after dinner we were shut up to- 
 gether. I receiv'd other [further] advises, and ten paper bookes of 
 dispatches and treaties ; to return which againe I gave a note under 
 my hand to Mr. Jos. Williamson, Master of the Paper Office. 
 
 31. I was this morning fifty yeares of age : The Lord teach me to 
 number my daies so as to apply them to his glory. Amen. 
 
 4 Nov. Saw the Prince of Orange newly come to see the King his 
 uncle ; he has a manly, courageous, wise countenance, resembling his 
 mother and the Duke of Gloucester, both deceased. 
 
 I now also saw that famous beauty, but in my opinion of a childish, 
 simple, and baby face, Mademoiselle de Querouaille,^ lately Maide of 
 Honor to Madame, and now to be so to the Queene. 
 
 23. Din'd with the Earle of Arlington, where was the Venetian 
 Ambassador, of whom I now tooke solemne leave, now on his returne. 
 There were also Lords Howard, Wharton, Windsor, and divers other 
 greate persons. 
 
 24. I din'd with the Treasurer, where was the Earle of Rochester, a 
 very prophane wit. 
 
 15 Dec. It was the thickest and darkest fogg on the Thames that 
 was ever known in the memory of man, and I happened to be in the 
 very midst of it. I supp'd with Monsieur Zulestein, late Governor to 
 the late Prince of Orange. 
 
 1671. 10 Jan. Mr. Bohun, my son's tutor, had ben 5 yeares in my 
 house, and now Batchelor of Laws and Fellow of New Colledge went 
 from me to Oxford to reside there, having well and faithfully perform'd 
 his charge. 
 
 18. This day I first acquainted his Majesty with that incomparable 
 young man Gibbon,' whom I had lately met with in an obscure place 
 
 ^ A word adopted by Mr. Evelyn for a subterranean passage, from the famous grotto of 
 Pausyllipo, at Naples. 
 
 2 Henrietta, the King's sister, married to Philip Duke of Orleans, was then on a visit here. 
 Mademoiselle Querouaille came over in her train, on purpose to entice Charles into union with 
 Lewis XIV. which unhappily succeeded but too well. She became the King's mistress, wa« 
 made Duchess of Portsmouth, and was his favourite till his death. 
 
 3 Usually known by the name of Gibbons ; celebrated for his exquisite carving. His prin- 
 cipal performance is said to be at Petworth. The following account of him appears in Wal- 
 pole's Catalogue of Painters, and incidental notes of other Artists, collected by Geo. Vertue. 
 
 ' Grinling Gihhon, — An original genius, a citizen of nature. There is no instance before 
 him of a man who gave to wood the loose and airy lightness of flowers, and chained together 
 the various productions of the elements with the free disorder natural to each species. It is 
 uncertain whether he was bnrn in Holland or in England : it is said that he lived in Bell 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 351 
 
 :by meere accident as I was walking neere a poore solitary thatched 
 'house, in a field in our parish, neere Sayes Court. I found him shut 
 .in ; but looking in at the window I perceiv'd him carving that large 
 cartoon or crucifix of Tintoret, a copy of which I had myselfe brought 
 from Venice, where the original painting remaines. I asked if I might 
 enter ; he open'd the door civilly to me, and I saw him about such a 
 work as for the curiosity of handling, drawing, and studious exact- 
 nesse, I never had before scene in all my traveils. I questioned him 
 why he worked in such an obscure and lonesome place ; he told me it 
 was that he might apply himselfe to his profession without interruption, 
 .and wondred not a little how I had found him out. I asked if he was 
 unwilling to be made knowne to some greate man, for that I believed 
 it might turn to his profit ; he answer'd he was yet but a beginner, but 
 would not be sorry to sell off that piece ; on demanding the price, he 
 said 100/. In good earnest the very frame was worth the money, there 
 being nothing in nature so tender and delicate as the flowers and 
 festoons about it, and yet the worke was very strong ; in the piece were 
 more than 100 figures of men, &c. I found he was likewise musical, 
 and very civil, sober, and discreete in his discourse. There was onely 
 an old woman in the house. So desiring leave to visite him some- 
 times, I went away. 
 
 Savage Court, Ludgate hill, and was employed by Betterton in decorating the Theatre in 
 Dorset Garden. He lived afterwards at Deptford, in the same house with a musician, where 
 
 . the beneficent and curious Mr. Evelyn found and patronised both. This gentleman, Sir P. 
 Lely, and Bap. May, who was something of an Architect himself, recommended Gibbons to 
 
 -Cha. II. who was too indolent to search for genius, and too indiscriminate in his bounty to 
 
 . confine it to merit, but was always pleased when it was brought home to him. He gave the 
 artist a place in the Board of Works, and employed his hand on ornaments of most taste in his 
 
 -palaces, particularly at Windsor. Gibbon, in gratitude, made a present of his own bust in 
 wood to Mr. Evelyn, who kept it at his house in Dover street. The piece that had struck so 
 good a judge was a large carving in wood of St. Stephen stoned, long preserved in the 
 sculptor's own house, and afterwards purchased and placed by the Duke of Chandos at 
 
 . Cannons.' 
 
 Mr. Walpole is not quite correct in this account. Gibbon, when young, was found by Mr. 
 Evelyn in a small house in Deptford, working on that famous piece from Tintoret, here said 
 to represent the stoning of St. Stephen, and which seems from Mr. Evelyn's account, to have 
 been his first performance of consequence. It must have been afterwards that he lived in 
 Belle Sauvage Yard, and that he worked on the Theatre in Dorset Gardens. Mr. Eveljm 
 does not mention a musician, and says there was only an old woman with him in the house 
 at Deptford. It was Mr. Evelyn who recommended him to the King, to Mr. May the archi- 
 tect, and to Sir Christopher Wren. Of the bust nothing is known at Wotton, 
 
 Copy from an original Letter addressed by G. Gibbon to Mr. Evelyn, now at Wottont 
 Honred 
 Sir I wold beg the faver wen you see Sir JosefF Williams (Williamson) again you wold bo 
 pleasd to speack to him that hee wold get me to Carve his Ladis sons hous my Lord Kildaro 
 for I onderstand it will (be) verry considerabell ar If you haen Acquantans wich my Lord to 
 speack to him his sealf and I shall for Ev're be obliaged to You I wold speack to Sir Josef my 
 sealf but i knouw it wold do better from you Sir youre Most umbell 
 
 Sarvant 
 I^ond. 23 Mar. 1682. G. Gibbon. 
 
 Mr. Evelyn wrote to Lord Kildare recommending Mr. Gibbon ; and to Mr. Gibbon with the 
 
 ; letter. 
 
352 MY HISTORIE OF THE DUTCH WAR. COUNCIL OF PLANTATIONS. 
 
 Of this young artist, together with my manner of finding him out, 
 I acquainted the King, and begg'd that he would give me leave to 
 bring him and his worke to White-hall, for that I would adventure my 
 reputation with his Majesty that he had never seene anything approch 
 it, and that he would be exceedingly pleased, and employ him. The 
 King said he would himselfe go see him. This was the first notice his 
 Majestie ever had of Mr. Gibbon. 
 
 20. The King came to me in the Queen's withdrawing roome from 
 the circle of ladies, to talk with me as to what advance I had made in 
 the Historie of the Dutch War. I din'd with the Treasurer, and 
 afterwards we went to the Secretarie's Office, where we conferred 
 about divers particulars. 
 
 21. I was directed to go to Sir Geo. Downing, who having ben a 
 publick minister in Holland at the beginning of the war, was to give 
 me light in some material passages. 
 
 This yeare the weather was so wet, stormy, and unseasonable, as had 
 not ben knowne in many yeares. 
 
 9 Fc^. I saw the greate ball danc'd by the Oueene and distinguished 
 ladies at White-hall Theater. Next day was acted there the famous 
 play call'd ' The Siege of Granada,' (Dryden) two days acted succes- 
 sivolji ; there were indeede very glorious sceanes and perspectives, the 
 worke of Mr. Streeter, who well understands it. 
 
 19. This day din'd with me Mr. Surveyor Dr. Christopher Wren, 
 and Mr. Pepys, Cleark of the Acts, two extraordinary ingenious and 
 knowing persons, and other friends. I carried them to see the piece oi 
 carving which I had recommended to the King. 
 
 25. Came to visit me one of the Lords Commissioners of Scotland 
 for the Union. 
 
 28. The Treasurer acquainted me that his Majesty was graciously 
 pleas'd to nominate me one of the Council of Forraine Plantations, and 
 give me a salary of 500/. per atm. to encourage me. 
 
 29. I went to thank the Treasurer, who was my greate friend and 
 loved me ; I dined with him and much company, and went thence to my 
 Lo. Arlington, Secretary of State, in whose favour I likewise was upon 
 many occasions, tho' I cultivated neither of their friendships by any 
 meane submissions. I kiss'd his Majesty's hand on his making me one 
 of that new establish'd Council. 
 
 I Mar. I caused Mr. Gibbon to bring to White-hall his excellent 
 piece of carving, where being come I advertis'd his Majestie, who ask'd 
 me where it was ; I told him in Sir Richard Browne's (my father-in- 
 law) chamber, and that if it pleas'd his Majesty to appoint whither it 
 should be brought, being large and tho' of wood heavy, I would take 
 care for it ; ' No,' says the King, ' shew me the way, I'll go to Sii 
 Richard's chamber,' which he immediately did, walking along the 
 entries after me ; as far as the ewrie, till he came up into the room^ 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 353 
 
 where I also lay. No sooner was he enter'd and cast his eye on the 
 vork but he was astonish'd at the curiositie of it, and having consider'd 
 it a long time and discours'd with Mr. Gibbon, whom I brought to 
 kisse his hand, he commanded it should be immediately carried to the 
 Queenes side to shew her. It was carried up into her bed chamber, 
 where she and the King looked on and admired it againe ; the King 
 being call'd away left us with the Queene, believing she would have 
 bought it, it being a crucifix ; but when his Majesty was gon, a French 
 pedling woman, one Mad. de Boord, who us'd to bring peticoates and 
 lanns, and baubles out of France to the Ladys, began to find fault with 
 ^everall things in the worke, which she understood no more than an 
 asse or a monkey, so as in a kind of indignation, 1 caused the person 
 who brought it to carry it back to the chamber, finding the Queene so 
 much govern'd by an ignorant French woman, and this incomparable 
 artist had his labour onely for his paines, which not a little displeas'd 
 me, and he was faine to send it downe to his cottage againe ; he not 
 long after sold it for ;£.8o. tho' well worth ;£.ioo. without the frame, to 
 Sir George Viner. 
 
 His Majesty's Surveyor, Mr. Wren, faithfully promis'd me to employ 
 him '. I having also bespoke his Majesty for his worke at Windsor, 
 which my friend Mr. May the architect there was going to alter and 
 repaire universally ; for on the next day I had a fair opportunity of 
 talking to his Majesty about it, in the lobby next the Queenes side, 
 where I presented him with some sheetes of tny Historie. 1 thence 
 walk'd with him thro' St. James's Parke to the garden, where I both 
 
 saw and heard a very familiar discourse between and 
 
 Mrs. Nelhe' as they cal'd an impudent comedian, she looking out of 
 her garden on a terrace at the top of the wall, and stand- 
 ing on the greene walke under it. I was heartily sorry at this scene. 
 Thence the King walked to the Dutchess of Cleaveland, another lady 
 of pleasure, and curse of our nation. 
 
 5. I dined at Greenewich, to take leave of Sir Tho. Linch, going 
 Governor of Jamaica. 
 
 10. To London about passing my patent as one of the standing 
 Council for Plantations, a considerable honour, the others in the Council 
 being chiefly Noblemen, and Officers of State. 
 
 2 jVpril. To Sir Tho. Clifford the Treasurer, to condole with him on 
 the Icsse of his eldest son, who died at Florence. 
 
 2 May. The French King being now with a greate army of 28,000 
 men about Dunkirk, divers of the grandees of that Court, and a vast 
 number of gentlemen and cadets in fantastical habits came flocking 
 over to see our Court, and comphment his Majesty. I was present 
 when they first we/e conducted into the Queenes withdrawing roome, 
 
 I The carving in the Choir, &c. of St. Paul's Cathedra] was executed by Gibbon. 
 S Nel. Gwyn : tliere can be no doubt with what name to fill up these blanlcs. 
 
 23 
 
354 MONSIEUR DE GRAMONT. COL. BLOOD. PLANTATIONS. 
 
 where saluted their Majesties the Dukes of Guise, Longueville, and 
 many others of the first sort. 
 
 10. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's, where dined Monsieur De Gramont 
 and severall French noblemen, and one Blood, that impudent bold 
 felljw who had not long before attempted to steale the imperial crowne 
 itselfe out of the Tower, pretending onely curiositie of seeing the regalia 
 there, when stabbing the keeper, tho' not mortally, he boldly went away 
 with it thro' all the guards, taken onely by the accident of his horse 
 falling down. How he came to be pardoned, and even received into 
 favour, not onely after this, but severall other exploits almost as daring 
 both in Ireland and here, I could never come to understand. Some 
 believed he became a spie of severall parties, being well with the Sec- 
 taries and Enthusiasts, and did his Majesty services that way, which 
 none alive could do so well as he ; but it was certainely as the boldest 
 attempt, so the onely treason of this sort that was ever pard&n'd. The 
 man had not onely a daring but a villainous unmercifull looke, a false 
 countenance, but very well spoken and dangerously insinuating. 
 
 11. I went to Eltham to sit as one of the Commissioners about the 
 Eubsidie now given by Parliament to his Majesty. 
 
 17. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's [Sir Tho. Clifford] with the Earl of 
 Arlington, Carlingford, Lord Arundel of Wardour, Lo. Almoner to the 
 Queene, a French Count, and two abbots, with several more of French 
 nobility ; and now by something I had lately observed of Mr. Treasurer's 
 conversation on occasion, I suspected him a little warping to Rome. 
 
 25. I dined at a feast made for me and my wife by the Trinity Com- 
 pany for our passing a fine of the land which Sir R. Browne my wife's 
 father freely gave to found and build their Colledge or Almes houses on 
 at Deptford, it being my wife's after her father's decease. It was a 
 good and charitable worke and gift, but would have ben better bestow'd 
 on the poore of that parish, than on the seamens widows, the Trinity 
 Company being very rich, and the rest of the poore of the parish ex- 
 ceedingly indigent. 
 
 26. The Earle of Bristol's house in Queene Street [Lincoln's Inn 
 Fields], was taken for the Commissioners of Trade and Plantations, and 
 furnish'd with rich hangings of the King's. It consisted of seven roomes 
 on a floore, with a long gallery, gardens, &c. This day we met : the 
 Duke of Buckingham, Earl of Lauderdaile, Lord Colpeper, Sir Geo. 
 Carteret Vice Chamberlaine, and myselfe, had the oathes given us by 
 the Earle of Sandwich, our President. It was, to advise and counsel 
 his Majesty to the best of our abilities for the well governing of his 
 Forraine Plantations, &c. the forme very little differing from that given 
 to the Privy Council. We then tooke our places at the Board in the 
 Council Chamber, a very large roome furnished with atlases, mapps, 
 charts, globes, &c. Then came the Lord Keeper, Sir Orlando Bridge- 
 man, Earl of Arlington, Secretary of State, Lord Ashley, Mr. Treasurer, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 355 
 
 Sir John Trevor the other Secretary, Sir John Duncomb, Loid Ailing- 
 ton, Mr. Grey, son to the Lord Grey, Mr. Henry Broncher, Sir Humfry 
 Winch, Sir Joh.) Finch, Mr. Waller, and Coll. Titus of the Bedcham- 
 ber, with Mr. Shngsby Secretary to the Council, and two Clearksof the 
 Council, who had all ben sworne some dayes before. Being all set, 
 our Patent was read, and then the additional Patent, in which was re- 
 cited this new establishment ; then was delivered to each a copy 01 the 
 Patent and of instructions : after which we proceeded to business. The 
 first thing we did was to settle the forme of a circular letter to the Go- 
 vernors of all his Majesty's Plantations and Territories in the West 
 Indies and Islands thereof, to give them notice to whom they should 
 apply themselves on all occasions, and to render us an account of their 
 present state and government ; but what we most insisted on was to 
 know the condition of New England, which appearing to be very inde- 
 pendent as to their regard to Old England or his Majesty, rich and 
 strong as they now were, there were greate debates in what style to. 
 write to them, for the condition of that Colony was such that they were 
 able to contest with all other Plantations about them, and there was. 
 feare of their breaking from all dependance on this Nation ; his Majesty 
 therefore commended this affaire more expressly. We therefore thought 
 fit in the first place to acquaint ourselves as well as we could of the 
 state of that place, by some whom we heard of that were newly come from 
 thence, and to be informed of their present posture and condition ; 
 some of our Council were for sending them a menacing letter, which 
 those who better understood the peevish and touchy humor of that 
 Colonic, were utterly against. 
 
 A letter was then read from Sir Tho. Modiford, Governor of 
 Jamaica ; and then the Council brake up. 
 
 Having brought an action against one Cock for money which he had 
 receiv'd for me, it had been referred to an arbitration by the recom- 
 mendation of that excellent good man the Chief Justice Hales ; but this 
 not succeeding, I went to advise with that famous laviryerMr. Jones, of 
 Gray's Inn, and 27 May had a trial before the Lo. Ch. Justice Hales, 
 and after the la%vyers had wrangled sufficiently, it was referred to a new 
 arbitration. This was the very first suit at law that ever I had with 
 any creature, and 6 that it might be the last ! 
 
 I June. An installation at Windsor. 
 
 6. I went to Council, where was produc'd a most exact and ample 
 information of the state of Jamaica, and of the best expedients as to 
 New England, on which there was a long debate, but at length 'twas 
 concluded that, if any, it should be only a conciliating paper at first, 
 or civil letter, till we had better information of the present face of 
 things, since we understood they were a people almost upon the very 
 brink of renouncing any dependance on the Crowne. 
 
 19, To a splendid dinner at the greate roome in Deptford Trinity 
 
35l3 STATE OF NEW ENGLAND ALARMS COUNCIL OF PLANTATIONS. 
 
 House, Sir Thomas Allen chosen Master, and succeeding the Earle 
 of Craven. 
 
 20. To carry Coll. Midleton to White-hall to my Lo. Sandwich, our 
 President, for some information which he was able to give of the state 
 of the Colonic in New England. 
 
 21. To Council againe, when one Coll. Cartwright, a Nottingham- 
 shire man, (formerly in commission with CoUonel Nicholls) gave 
 us a considerable relation of that country, on which the Council 
 concluded that in the first place a letter of amnestic should be 
 dispatch'd. 
 
 24. Constantine Hugens, Signer of Zuylichem, that excellent learn'd 
 man, poet, and musitian, now neere 80 yeares of age, a vigorous, brisk 
 man, came to take leave of me before his returne into Holland with 
 the Prince, whose Secretary he was. 
 
 26. To Council, where Lo. Arlington acquainted us that it was his 
 Majesty's proposal we should every one of us contribute ^20 towards 
 building a Council-chamber and conveniences somewhere in White-hall, 
 that his Majesty might come and sit amongst us and heare our debates ; 
 the mony we laid out to be reimbours'd out of the contingent monies 
 already set apart for us, viz. ^1000 yearly. To this we unanimously 
 consented. There came an uncertaine bruite from Barbados of some 
 disorder there. On my return home I stept in at the Theater to see 
 the new machines for the intended scenes, which were indeede very 
 costly and magnificent. 
 
 29. To Council, where were letters from Sir Tho. Modiford, of the 
 expedition and exploit of Coll. Morgan and others of Jamaica on the 
 Spanish Continent at Panama. 
 
 4 July. To Council, where we drew up and agreed to a letter to be 
 sent to New England, and made some proposal to Mr. Gorges for his 
 interest in a Plantation there. 
 
 24. To Council. Mr. Surveyor brought us a plot for the building 
 <if our Council-chamber, to be erected at the end of the Privy-garden 
 in White-hall. 
 
 3 August. A full appearance at the Council. The matter in debate 
 was, whether we should send a Deputy to New England, requiring them 
 of the Massachusets to restore such to their limits and respective pos- 
 sessions as had petition'd the Council ; this to be the open Commission 
 onely. but in truth with seacret instructions to informe the Council of 
 the condition of those Colonies, and whether they were of such power 
 as to be able to resist his Majesty and declare for themselves as inde- 
 pendent of the Crowne, which we were told, and which of late yeares 
 made them refractorie. Coll. Midleton being call'd in, asjur'd. us they 
 might be curb'd by a few of his Majesty's first-rate fregats, to spoile 
 their trade with the islands ; but tho' my Lo. President was not satis- 
 fied, the rest were, and we did resolve to advise his Majesty to send 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 3J7 
 
 Commissioners with a formal Commission for adjusting boundaries, &c. 
 with some other instructions. 
 
 19. To Council. The letters of Sir Tho. Modiford were read, 
 giving relation of the exploit at Panama, which was very brave ; they 
 tooke, burnt and pillag'd the towne of vast treasures, but the best of the 
 booty had ben shipp'd off and lay at anchor in the South Sea, so that 
 after our men had rang'd the country 60 miles about, they went back 
 to Nombre de Dios, and embarq'd for Jamaica. Such an action had 
 not ben done since the famous Drake. 
 
 I din'd at the Hambrngh Residents, and after dinner went to the 
 christening of Sir Sam. Tuke's son Charles, at Somerset House, by a 
 Popish priest with many odd ceremonies. The godfathers were the 
 King and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and the godmother the Countesse 
 of Huntingdon. 
 
 29 Aug. To London with some more papers of my progresse in the 
 Dutch Warr, delivered to the Treasurer. 
 
 1 Sept. Din'd with the Treasurer in company with my Lord Arling- 
 ton, Halifax, & Sir Tho. Strickland ; and next day went home, being 
 the anniversarie of the late dreadfull fire of London. 
 
 13 Sept. This night fell a dreadful tempest. 
 
 15. In the afternoone at Council, where letters were read from Sit 
 Charles Wheeler concerning his resigning his Government of SL 
 Christopher's. 
 
 21. I din'd in the Citty at the fraternity feast in Yron-mongers Hall,' 
 where the 4 stewards chose their successors for the next yeare, with a 
 solemn procession, garlands about their heads and musiq playing 
 before them, so coming up to the upper tables where the gentlemen 
 sate, they drank to the new stewards, and so we parted. 
 
 22. I din'd at the Treasurer's, where I had discourse with Sir Hen. 
 Jones (now come over to raise a regiment of horse), concerning the 
 French conquests in Lorraine ; he told me the King sold all things to 
 the souldiers, even to an handfull of hay. 
 
 Lord Sunderland was now nominated Ambassador to Spaine. 
 
 After dinner the Treasurer carried me to Lincoln's Inn, to one of the 
 Parliament Clearks, to obtaine of him that I might carry home and 
 peruse some of the Journals, which were accordingly delivered to me 
 to examine about the late Dutch war. Returning home I went on 
 shore to see the Costome House, now newly rebuilt since the dreadfull 
 conflagration.^ 
 
 9 Oct. 1 went after evening service to London, in order to a journey 
 of refreshment with Mr. Treasurer to Newmarket, where the King then 
 
 1 One Df the grand court-days of that opulent Company, which is one o^ twelve, 
 
 2 This new edifice was again destroyed bv fire in Feb. 1814, and has been rebuilt in a very 
 12 agnificent manner by Mr, Henry Feto, who contracted for the work at a price much short d 
 that propo'>«d by any other builder. 
 
35S RACING AT NEWMARKET. MADEMOISELLE QUEROUAILLE. 
 
 was, in his coach with 6 brave horses, which we changed thrice, first 
 at Bishops Stortford and last at Chesterford, so as by night we got to 
 New-market, where Mr. Henry Jermain (nephew to the Earle of St. 
 Alban's) lodged me very civily. We went immediately to Court, the 
 King and all the English gallants being there at their autumnal sports, 
 Supp'd at the Lo. Chamberlaine's, and the next day after dinner I was 
 on the heath, where I saw the greate match run between Woodcock and 
 Flatfoot, belonging to the King and to Mr. Eliot of the Bedchamber, 
 many thousands being spectators ; and a more signal race had not ben 
 run for many yeares. 
 
 This over, I went that night with Mr. Treasurer to Euston, a palace 
 of Lord Arlington's, where we found Monsieur Colbert (the French Am- 
 bassador), and the famous new French Maid of Honor, M'Ue Querou- 
 aille, now coming to be in greate favour with the King. Here was also 
 the Countesse of Sunderland, and severall Lords and Ladies, who lodg'd 
 in the house. 
 
 During my stay here with Lord Arlington neere a fortnight, his 
 Majesty came almost every second day with the Duke, who commonly 
 return'd to New-market, but the King often lay here, during which 
 time I had twice the honor to sit at dinner with him, with all free- 
 dome. It was universally reported that the faire Lady was 
 
 bedded one of these nights, and the stocking flung, after the manner of a 
 married bride ; I acknowledge she was for the most part in her undresse 
 all day, and that there was fondnesse and toying with that young 
 wanton ; nay, 'twas said I was at the former ceremony, but 'tis 
 utterly false ; I neither saw nor heard of any such thing whilst I was 
 there, tho' I had ben in her chamber, and all over that apartment 
 late enough, and was myselfe observing all passages with curiosity 
 enough. However 'twas with confidence believed she was first made 
 a Misse, as they call these unhappy creatures, with all solemnity 
 at this time. 
 
 On Sunday a young Cambridge Divine preached an excellent sermon 
 in the Chapell, the King and the Duke of York being present. 
 
 i6. Came all the greate men from New-market, and other parts both 
 of Suffolk and Norfolck, to make their court, the whole house fiU'd from 
 one end to the other with lords, ladys and gallants ; there was such a 
 furnished table as I had seldome scene, nor any thing more splendid 
 md free, so that for fifteen days there were entertained at least 200 
 people and halfe as many horses, besides servants and guards at 
 infinite expence. 
 
 In the morning we went hunting and hawking ; in the afternoone, 
 till almost morning, to cards and dice, yet I must say without noise, 
 swearing, quarrell, or confusion of any sort. I, who was no gamester, had 
 often discourse with the French Ambassador Colbert, and went some- 
 times abroad on horseback with the ladys to take the aire, and now and 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 359 
 
 then to hunting ; thus idly passing the time, but not without more often 
 recesse to my pretty apartment, where I was quite out of all this hurry, 
 and had leasure when I would, to converse with bookes, for there is no 
 man more hospitably easy to be withall than my Lord Arlington, of 
 whose particular friendship and kindness I had ever a more than ordi- 
 nary share. His house is a very noble pile, consisting of 4 pavillions 
 after the French, beside a body of a large house, and tho' not built al- 
 together, but form'd of additions to an old house (purchas'd by his Lord- 
 ship of one Sir T. Rookwood) yet with a vast expence made not onely 
 capable and roomesome, but very magnificent and commodious, as well 
 within as without, nor lesse splendidly furnish'd. The stayre-case is 
 very elegant, the garden handsome, the canall beautifuU, but the soile 
 drie, barren and miserably sandy, which flies in drifts as the wind sits. 
 Here my Lord was pleas'd to advise with me about ordering his plan- 
 tations of firs, elmes, limes, &c. up his parke, and in all other places 
 and avenues. I persuaded him to bring his park so neere as to compre- 
 hend his house within it, which he resolv'd upon, it being now neere a 
 mile to it. The water furnishing the fountaines is raised by a pretty 
 engine, on very slight plaine wheels, which likewise sei-ve to grind his 
 come, from a small cascade of the canall, the invention of Sir Sam. 
 Moreland. In my Lord's house and especialy above the stayre-case, 
 in the greate hall and some of the chambers and roomes of state, are 
 paintings in fresco by Signor Verrio, being the first worke which he 
 did in England. 
 
 17. My Lord Hen. Howard coming this night to visit my Lord 
 Chamberlaine, and staying a day, would needes have me go with him 
 to Norwich, promising to convey me back after a day or two ; this, as 
 I could not refuse, I was not hard to be persuaded to, having a desire 
 to see that famous scholar and physitian Dr. T. Browne, author of the 
 ' Religio Medici,' and ' Vulgar Errors' &c. now lately knighted. Thither 
 then went my Lord and I alone in his flying chariot with 6 horses ; and 
 by the way, discoursing with me of severall of his concernes, he ac- 
 quainted me of his going to marry his eldest sonn to one of the King's 
 natural daughters by the Dutchesse of Cleaveland, by which he reckon'd 
 he should come into mighty favour. He also told me that tho' he kept 
 
 that idle creature Mrs. B ', and would leave ^200 a yeare to the 
 
 sone he had by her, he would never marry her, and that the King him- 
 selfe had caution'd him against it. But all the world knows how he 
 kept this promise. 
 
 Being come to the Ducal Palace, my Lord made very much of me, 
 but I had little rest, so exceeding desirous he was to shew me the con- 
 trivance he had made for the entertainment of their Majesties and the 
 whole Court not long before, and which, tho' much of it was but tem- 
 porary, apparently fram'd of boards only, were yet standing. As to 
 
 1 Bickerton, see afterwards, under 1678, Jan. and August. 
 
36o SIR THOMAS BROWN. CITY OF NORWICH. THEIR STUFF TRAD!'. 
 
 the Palace, it is an old wretched building, and that part of it newly 
 built of brick is very ill understood, so as I was of opinion it had b.'n 
 much better to have demolish'd all, and set it up in a better place, than 
 to proceede farther ; for it stands in the very Market place, and tho 
 neere a river, yet a very narrow muddy one, and without any extent. 
 
 Next morning I went to see Sir Tho. Browne (with whom I had 
 some time corresponded by letter, tho' I had never seen him before). 
 His vvhole house and garden being a paradise and cabinet of rarities, 
 and that of the best collection, especialy medails, books, plants, anc! 
 natural things. Amongst other curiosities Sir Thomas had a collection. 
 of the eggs of all the foule and birds he could procure, that country 
 (especialy the promontary of Norfolck) being frequented, as he said, by 
 severall kinds which seldome or never go farther into the land, as 
 cranes, storkes, eagles, and variety of water-foule. He led me to see 
 all the remarkable places of this ancient Citty, being one of the largest, 
 and certainly, after London, one of the noblest of England, for its ven- 
 erable Cathedrall, number of stately churches, cleanesse of the streetcs., 
 and buildings of flints so exquisitely headed and squared as I 
 was much astonish'd at ; but he told me they had lost the art of 
 squaring the flints, in which they once so much excell'd, and of which 
 the churches, best houses, and walls, are built. The Castle is an an- 
 tique extent of ground, which now they call Marsfield, and would have 
 ben a fitting area to have plac'd the Ducal palace in. The suburbs are 
 large, the prospects sweete, with other amenities, not omitting the 
 flower gardens, in which all the inhabitants excel. The fabric of stuffs 
 brings a vast trade to this populous towne. 
 
 Being return'd to my Lord's, who had ben with me all this mornings 
 he advis'd with me concerning a plot to rebuild his house, having 
 already as he said erected a front next the streete, and a left wing, anti 
 now resolving to set up another wing and pavilion next the garden, and 
 to convert the bowling-grcene into stables. My advice was, to desist 
 from all, and to meditate wholly on rebuilding an handsome palace at 
 Arundell House in the Strand, before he proceeded farther here, and 
 then to place this in the castle ground belonging to his Lordship. 
 
 I observed that most of the Church-yards (tho' some of them large 
 enough) were filled up with earth, or rather the congestion cf dead 
 bodys one upon another, for want of earth, even to the very top of the 
 walls, and some above the walls, so as the Churches seemed to be 
 built in pitts. 
 
 1 8 Oct. I return'd to Euston in my Lord's coach, leaving him at 
 Norwich, in company with a very ingenious gentleman, Mr. White, 
 whose father and mother (daughter to the late Lord Treassurcr Weston, 
 Earl of Portland) I knew at Rome, where this gentleman was bome> 
 and where his parents lived and died with much reputation, during 
 their banishment in our civil broils. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 361 
 
 21 Leaving Euston, I lodged this night at New-market, where 1 
 found the jolly blades raceing, dauncing, feasting, and revelhng, morv* 
 resembling a luxurious and abandon'd rout, than a Christian Court 
 The Duke of Buckingham was now in mighty favour, and had with 
 him that impudent woman the Countess of Shrewsbury, with his band 
 of fiddlers, &c. 
 
 Next morning, in company with Sir Bernard Gascoyne and Lord 
 Hawly, I came ill the Treassurers coach to Bishop Stortford, where he 
 gave us a noble supper. Next day to London, and so home. 
 
 14 Nov. To Council, where Sir Cha. Wheeler, late Governor of the 
 Leeward Islands, having ben complain'd of for many indiscreete ma- 
 nagements, it was resolv'd, on scanning many of the particulars, to 
 advise his Majesty to remove him, and consult what was to be don to 
 prevent these inconveniences he had brought things to. This businesse 
 staide me in London almost a weeke, being in Council or Committee 
 every morning till the 25th. 
 
 27. We ordered that a Proclamation should be presented to his 
 Majesty to signe, against what Sir Charles Wheeler had don in St. 
 Christopher's, since the war, on the articles of peace at Breda. He 
 was shortly afterwards recalled. 
 
 6 Dec. Came to visite me Sir William Haywood, a greate pretender 
 to English antiquities. 
 
 14. Went to see the Duke of Buckingham's ridiculous farce and 
 rhapsody, called 'The Recital," buffooning all formal plays, yet 
 propharie enough. 
 
 23. The Councillors of the Board of Trade din'd together at the 
 Cock in Suffolck street e. 
 
 1672, 12 Jan. His Majesty renewed us our lease of Sayes Court pas- 
 tures for 99 yeares, but ought, according to his solemn promise ^ (as I 
 hope he will still perform), have passed them to us in fee farme. 
 
 23. To London, in order to Sir Richard Browne, my father in law, 
 resigning his place of Gierke of the Council to Joseph Williamson, 
 Esq. who was admitted and was knighted. This place his Majesty 
 had promis'd to give me many yeares before ; but upon consideration 
 of the renewal of our lease and other reasons, I chose to part with it to 
 Sir Joseph, who gave us and the rest of his brother clearks a handsome 
 supper at his house, and after supper a consort of music. 
 
 3 February. An extraordinary snow : part of the weeke was taken 
 up in consulting about the commission of prisoners of war, and in- 
 struetions to our ofhcers, in order to a second war with the Hollanders ; 
 his Majesty having made choice of the former Commissioners and 
 royselte amongst them. 
 
 II. In the afternoone that famous proselyte. Monsieur Brevall, 
 
 1 This must mean his play of ' I'he Rehearsal' 
 
 s I'hr King's engagement under his band is nuw at Wotton. 
 
362 DEATH OF DR. BRETON, OUR PASTOR. WAR WITH HOLLAND. 
 
 preach'd at the Abby, in English, extreamly well and with much elo- 
 quence. He had ben a Capuchine, but was much better learned 
 than most of that order. 
 
 12. At the Council we enter'd on enquiries about improving the 
 Plantations by silks, galls, flax, senna, &c. and consider'd how nutmegs 
 and cinnamon might be obtain'd and brought to Jamaica, that soile 
 and cUmate promising successe. Dr. Worsley being call'd in, spake 
 many considerable things to encourage it. We tooke order to send to 
 the Plantations that none of their ships should adventure homeward 
 single, but stay for company and convoys. We also deliberated on 
 some fit person to go as Commissioner to inspect their actions in 
 New England, and from time to time report how that people stood 
 affected. — In future to meete at White-hall. 
 
 20. Dr. Parr of Camerwell preach'd a most pathetic funebral dis- 
 course and panegyric at the interment of our late pastor, Dr. Breton 
 (who died on the 1 8th), on ' Happy is the servant whom wlren liis Lord 
 Cometh, &c.' This good man, among other expressions profess'd that 
 he had never ben so touch'd and concern'd at any losse as at this, unlesse 
 at that of K. Charles our ]\Iarlyr, and Archbishop Usher, whose chap- 
 laine he had ben. Dr. Breton had preach'd on the 28th and 30th 
 Jan. : on the Friday, having fasted all day, making his provisionary 
 sermon for the Sunday following, he went well to bed, but was taken 
 suddenly ill, and expir'd before help could come to him. 
 
 Never had a parish a greater losse, not onely as he was an excellent 
 preacher, and fitted for our greate and vulgar auditory, but for his ex- 
 cellent life and charity, his meeknesse and obliging nature, industrious 
 helpful!, and full of good workes. He left neere ^400 to the poore in 
 his will, and that what children of his should die in their minority, 
 their portion should be so employed. I lost in particular a special 
 friend, and one that had an extraordinary love to me and mine. 
 
 25. To London, to speake with the Bishop and Sir John Cutler our 
 patron, to present Mr. Frampton (afterwards Bishop of Gloucester.) 
 
 I March. A full Council of Plantations, on the danger of the Lee- 
 ward Islands, threaten'd by the French, who had taken some of our 
 ships, and began to interrupt our trade. Also in debate, whether the 
 new Governor of St. Christopher's should be subordinate to the Gover- 
 nor of Barbados. The debate was serious and long. 
 
 12. Now was the first blow given by us to the Dutch convoy of the 
 Smyrna fleete, by Sir Robert Holmes and Lord Ossorie, in which we 
 received little save blows, and a worthy reproch for attacking our neigh- 
 bours ere any war was proclaim'd, and then pretending the occasion 
 to be, that some time before, the Merlin yacht chanceing to saile thro' 
 the whole Dutch fleete, their Admiral did not strike to that trifling 
 vessel Surely this was a quarrel slenderly grounded, and not becoming 
 Christian neighbours. We are like to thrive accordingly. Lord Ossorie 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 363 
 
 several times deplor'd to me his being engaged in it ; he had more jus- 
 tice and honour than in the least to approve of it, tho' he had ben over 
 persuaded to the expedition. There is no doubt but we should have 
 surpris'd this exceeding rich fleete, had not the avarice and ambition 
 of Holmes and Sprag separated themselves and wilfully divided our 
 fleete, on presumption that either of them was strong enough to deale 
 with the Dutch convoy without joyning and mutual help ; but they so 
 warmly plied our divided fleets, that whilst in conflict the merchants 
 sail'd away, and got safe into Holland. 
 
 A few dales before this, the Treasurer of the Household, Sir Tho. 
 Clifford,' hinted to me, as a confident, that his Majesty would shut tip 
 the Exchequer (and accordingly his Majesty made use of infinite trea- 
 sure there, to prepare for an intended rupture) ; but, says he, it will 
 soone be open againe and every body satisfied ; for this bold man, who 
 had ben the sole adviser of the King to invade that sacred stock (tho' 
 some pretend it was Lord Ashley's counsel, then Chancellor of the 
 Exchequer), was so over confident of the successe of this unworthy 
 designe against the Smyrna merchants, as to put his Majesty on ai ) 
 action which not onely lost the hearts of his subjects, and ruined many 
 widdows and orphans whose stocks were lent him, but the reputation 
 of his Exchequer for ever, it being before in such credit, that he might 
 have commanded halfe the wealth of the Nation. 
 
 The credit of this bank being thus broken did exceedingly discontent 
 the people, and never did his Majestys affairs prosper to any purpose 
 after .t, for as it did not supply the expence of the meditated war, so it 
 mealted away, I know not how. 
 
 To this succeeded the King's declaration for an universal toUeration ; 
 
 1 The following is taken from King James's Life by himself: * On the King's intention to 
 have a Lord Treasurer (1672) instead of putting the Seals into Commission, the Duke of York 
 desired Lord Arlington to join with him in proposing to the King the Lord Clifford for that 
 considerable employment ; but he found Lord Arlington very cold in it, and endeavouring to 
 persuade the Duke that the King did not intend the alteration, and the next day he employed 
 a friend to press the Duke to endeavour to get Sir Robert Car to be Commissioner in the room 
 of Lord Shaftesbury (then appointed Lord Chancellor). 
 
 * Some few days after, the Duke proposed to his Majesty the Lord Clifford as Treasurer 
 which was well received, and he said he would do it, as thinking no body fitter ; he also told 
 the Duke that Lord Arlington had a mind to have that Staff : but he answered him that he 
 had too much kindness for him to let him have it, for he knew he was not fit for the office; 
 and should he give it him, it would be his ruin. A little after the King told the Duke that he 
 found Lord Arlington was angry with Lord Clifford, on knowing that he was to have the 
 place : and desired the Duke to persuade Lord Arlington not to let the world see his discon- 
 tent, and to endeavour to make them continue friends. They promised the Duke to live 
 friendly together, but Lord Arlington kept not his word, and w.is ever after cold, if not worse, 
 towards him. 
 
 ' Christmas coming on, the King spake to Lord Clifford and T^rd Arundel of Wardour, to 
 persuade the Duke to receive the Sacrament with him at that time (which the Duke had for- 
 borne for several months before). They urged the King not to press it, and he then seemed 
 satisfied : but the day before Christmas Eve, the King spoke again to Lord Clifford to repre- 
 sent to the Duke what he had before said, which the Lord Clifford did, but found the Duk« 
 waa not to be moved in his resolution of not going against hb conscience.' 
 
364 THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND. TILBURY FORT. MISERIES OF WAR. 
 
 Papists and swarms of Sectaries now boldly shewing themselves in 
 their publiq meetings. This was imputed to the same council, Clitibrd 
 warping to Rome as was believ'd, nor was Lord Arlington cleare of 
 suspicion, to gratifie that party, but as since it has prov'd, and was then 
 evidently foreseen, to the extreame weakening the Church of England 
 and its Episcopal Government, as 'twas projected. I spealce not this 
 as my owne sense, but what was the discourse and thoughts of others 
 who were lookers on ; for I think there might be some relaxations 
 without the least prejudice to the present establishment, discreetly 
 limited, but to let go the reines in this manner, and then to imagine 
 they could take them up againe as easily, was a false politiq and 
 greately destructive. The truth is, our Bishops slip'd the occasion, for 
 had they held a steady hand upon his Majesty's restauration, as they 
 might easily have don, the Church of England had emerg'd and flou- 
 rish'd without interruption ; but they were then remisse, and covetous 
 after advantages of another kind, whilst his Majesty sufler'd them to 
 come into an harvest, with which, without any injustice, he might have 
 rumunerated innumerable gallant gentlemen for their services, who had 
 ruin'd themselves in the late Rebellion.' 
 
 21 Mar. I visited the coasts in my district of Kent, .ond divers 
 wounded and languishing poore men that had ben in the Smyrna con- 
 flict. I went over to see the new-begun fort of Tilbury ; a royal work 
 indeede, and such as will one day bridle a greate Citty to the purpose, 
 before they are aware. 
 
 23. Capt. Cox, one of the Commissioners of the Navy, furnishing 
 me with a yatcht, I sail'd to Sheere-nesse to see that Fort also, now 
 newly finished ; severall places on both sides the Swale and Medway 
 to Gillingham and Upnore, being also proi ided with redouts and bat- 
 teries, to secure the station of our men of war at Chatham, and .shut 
 the doore when the steedes were stolen. 
 
 24. I saw the chirurgeon cut off the leg of a wounded sailor, the 
 stout and gallant man enduring it with incredible patience, without 
 being bound to his chaire as usual on such painfull occasions. I had 
 hardly courage enough to be present. Not being cut off high enough, 
 the gangreen prevail'd, and the second operation cost the poore crea- 
 ture his life. 
 
 Lord ! what miseries are mortal men subject to, and what confusion 
 and mischeif do the avarice, anger and ambition of Princes cause in 
 the world ! 
 
 25. I proceeded to Canterbury, Dovei, Deal, the Isle of Thanet, 
 by Sandwich, and so to Margate. Here we had aboundance of mise- 
 rably wounded men, his Majesty sending his cheife chirurgeon, Serjeant 
 
 1 This means the fines for renewals of leases not filled up during the Interregnum, and now 
 to be immediately applied for. Bishop Burnet says they were much misapplied. Hist, of his 
 own Time^ I. 304, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 36$ 
 
 Knight, to meete me, and Dr. Waldrond had attended me all the jour- 
 ney. Having taken order for the accomodation of the wounded, I came 
 back thro' a country the best cultivated of any that in my life I had 
 any where seene, every field lying as even as a bowling-greene, and 
 the fences, plantations, and husbandry in such admirable order as in- 
 finitely delighted me after the sad and afflicting spectacles and objects 
 I was come from. Observing almost every tall tree to have a weather- 
 cock on the top bough, and some trees half a dozen, I learn'd that on 
 a certaine holyday tVie farmers feast their servants, at which solemnity 
 they set up these cocks in a kind of triumph. 
 
 Being come back towards Rochester, I went to take order about 
 building a strong and high wall about a house I had hired of a gentle- 
 man at a place call'd Hartlip, for a prison, paying 50/. yearly rent. 
 Here I settled a Provost Martial and other Officers, returning by Fe- 
 versham. On the 30th heard a Sermon in Rochester Cathedrall, & so 
 got to Sayes Court on the first of Aprill. 
 
 4 April. I went to see the fopperies of the Papists at Somerset 
 House and York House, where now the French Ambassador had caus'd 
 to be represented our Blessed Saviour at the Paschal Supper with his 
 Disciples, in figures and puppets made as big as the life, of wax-work, 
 curiously clad and sitting round a large table, the roome nobly hung, 
 and shining with innumerable lamps and candles : this was expos'd to 
 all the world, all the Citty came to see it : such liberty had the Roman 
 Catholics at this time obtain'd. 
 
 16. Sat in Council, preparing Lord Willougby's commission and 
 instructions as Governor of Barbados and the Caribbd Islands. 
 
 17. Sat on business in the Star Chamber. 
 
 19. At Council, preparing instructions for Col. Stapleton, now to 
 go Governor of St. Christopher's ; and heard the complaints of the 
 Jamaica merchants against the Spaniards for hindering them from 
 cutting Logwood on the maine land, where they have no pretence. 
 
 21. To my Lord of Canterbury, to entreate him to engage Sir 
 John Cutler, the patron, to provide us a grave and learned man, in 
 opposition to a novice. 
 
 30. Congratulated Mr. Treassurer Clifford's new honour, being made 
 a Baron. 
 
 2 May. My sonn John was specially admitted of the Middle Temple 
 by Sir Fra. North, his Majesties Solicitor General, and since Chancellor. 
 I pray God bless this beginning, my intention being that he should 
 seriously apply himself to the study of the Law. 
 
 10. I was order'd by letter from the Council to repair forthwith to 
 his Majesty, whom I found in the Pal- Mai in St. James's Park, where 
 his Majesty coming to me from the company, commanded me to go 
 immediately to the sea coast, and to observe the motion of the Dutch 
 fleet and ours, the Duke and so many of the flower of our Nation being 
 
366 VISIT THE COAST DEFENCES. ARRANGE FOR PRISONERS COMING IN. 
 
 now under saile, coming from Portsmouth thro" the Downes, where 
 'twas believ'd there might be an encounter. 
 
 II. Went to Chatham. — 12. Heard a Sermon in Rochestei 
 Cathedrall. 
 
 13. To Canterbury; visited Dr. Bargrave,' my old fellow-travellei 
 in Italy, & great virtuoso. 
 
 14. To Dover, but the fleet did not appear till the i6th, when the 
 Duke of York with his and the French squadron, in all 170 ships (of 
 which above 100 were men of war) sail'd by, after the Dutch, who were 
 newly withdrawn. Such a gallant and formidable navy never, I think, 
 spread saile upon the seas. It was a goodly yet terrible sight, to behold 
 them as I did, passing Eastward by the straights 'twixt Dover and Calais 
 in a glorious day. The wind was yet so high that I could not wel go 
 aboard, and they were soon got out of sight. The next day having 
 visited our prisoners at the Castle, and saluted the Governor, I tooke 
 horse for Margate. Here, from the North Foreland Light-house-top 
 (which is a Pharos, built of bricq and having on the top a cradle of iron 
 in which a man attends a greate sea-coal fire all the year long, when 
 the nights are darke, for the safeguard of sailors) we could see our 
 fleete as they lay at anker. The next morning they weighed, and sailed 
 out of sight to the N. E. 
 
 19. Went to Margate ; and the following day was carried to see a 
 , gallant widow, brought up a farmoresse, and I think of gigantic race, 
 rich, comely, and exceedingly industrious. She put me in mind of 
 Debora and Abigail, her house was so plentifully stored with all man- 
 ner of countrie provisions, all of her owne growth, and all her conve- 
 niencies so substantial!, neate, and well understood ; she herselfe so 
 jolly and hospitable ; and her land so trim and rarely husbanded that 
 it struck me with admiration at her oeconomie. 
 
 This towne much consists of Brewers of a certaine heady ale, and 
 they deale much in mault, &c. For the rest, 'tis raggedly built, and has 
 an ill haven, with a small fort of little concernment, nor is the island 
 well disciplin'd ; but as to the husbandry and rural part, far exceeding 
 any part of England, for the accurate culture of their ground, in which 
 they exceed; even to curiositie and emulation. 
 
 We passed by Richborow, and in sight of Reculver, and so thro' a 
 sweete garden as it were, to Canterbury. 
 
 24. To London, and gave his Majesty an account of my journey, and 
 that I had put all things in readinesse upon all events, and so return'd 
 home sufficiently wearied. 
 
 31. I receiv'd another command to repaire to the Sea-side ; so I 
 went to Rochester, where I found many wounded, sick, and prisoners 
 newly put on shore after the engagement on the 28th, in which the 
 
 1 Dean of Canterbury a great benefactor to the Cathedral Library there. See in Todd'a 
 " Life of Milton " some curious particulars concerning him. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 367 
 
 Earle of Sandwich, that incomparable person and my particular friend, 
 and divers more whom I loved, were lost. My Lord (who was Admiral 
 of the Blew) was in the Prince, which was burnt, one of the best men of 
 war that ever spread canvass on the sea. There were lost with this 
 brave man, a son of Sir Cha. Cotterell (Master of the Ceremonies), and 
 a son of Sir Cha. Harbord (his Majesty's Surveyor-general), two valiant 
 and most accomplish'd youths, full of virtue and courage, who might 
 have saved themselves, but chose to perish with my Lord, whom they 
 honour'd and loved above their own lives. 
 
 Here I cannot but make some reflections on things past. It was not 
 above a day or two that going to White-hall to take leave of his Lord- 
 ship, who had his lodgings in the Privy Garden, shaking me by the hand 
 to bid me God-by'e, and said he thought he should see me no more, 
 and I saw to my thinking something boading in his countenance ; ' No,' 
 says he, 'they will not have me live. Had I lost a fleete (meaning on 
 his returne from Bergen when he tooke the East India prize) I should 
 have fared better ; but be it as it pleases God — I must do something I 
 know not what to save my reputation.' Something to this effect he had 
 hinted to me ; thus I tooke my leave. I well remember that the Duke 
 of Albemarle, and my now Lord Clifford, had, I know not why, no 
 greate opinion of his courage, because in former conflicts, being an able 
 and experienc'd seaman (which neither of them were), he always 
 brought off his Majesty's ships without losse, tho' not without as many 
 markes of true courage as the stoutest of them ; and I am a witnesse 
 that in the late war his owne ship was pierc'd like a cuUendar. But 
 the buisinesse was, he was utterly against this war from the beginning, 
 and abhorr'd the attacquing of the Smyrna fleete ; he did not favor the 
 heady expedition of Clifford at Bergen, nor was he so furious and con- 
 fident as was the Duke of Albemarle, who believed he could vanquish 
 the Hollanders with one squadron. My Lord Sandwich was prudent 
 as well as valiant, and allways govern'd his affairs with successe and 
 little losse ; he was for deliberation and reason, they for action and 
 slaughter without either, and for this, whisper'd as if my Lord Sand- 
 wich was not so gallant because he was not so rash, and knew how 
 fatal it was to loose a fleete, such as was that under his conduct, and 
 for which these very persons would have censur'd him on the other side. 
 This it was, I am confident, griev'd him and made him enter like a lion, 
 and fight like one too, in the midst of the hottest service, where the 
 stoutest of the rest seeing him engag'd and so many ships upon him, 
 durst not, or would not, come to his succour, as some of them, whom I 
 know, might have don. Thus this gallant person perish'd to gratifie 
 the pride and envy of some I nam'd. 
 
 Deplorable was the losse of one of the best accomplish'd persons, 
 not onely of this Nation but of any other. He was learned in sea 
 atlaires, in politics, in mathematics, and in musiq ; he had been on 
 
;63 LOSS OK LORD SANDWICH. THE FLEETE AT THE NORE. 
 
 divers embassies, was of a sweete and obliging temptr, sober, chast, 
 very ingenious, a true Nobleman, an ornament to the Court and 
 loyal to his Prince, nor has he left any behind him who approch 
 his many virtues. 
 
 He had, I confesse, serv'd the tyrant Cromwell when a young man. 
 but 'twas without malice, as a souldier of fortune ; and he readily sub- 
 mitted, and that with joy, bringing an entire fleete with him from the 
 Sound, at the first tidings of his Majestie's Restauration. I verily believe 
 him as faithfuU a subject as any that were not his friends. I am yet 
 heanily griev'd at this mighty losse, nor do I call it to my thoughts 
 without emotion. 
 
 2 June. Trinity Sonday I pass'd at Rochester; and on the 5th there 
 was buried in the Cathedral Mons. Rabiniere, reare Admiral of the 
 French squadron, a gallant person, who died of the wounds he received 
 in the fight. This ceremonie lay on me, which I perform'd with all the 
 decency I could, inviting the Mayor and Aldermen to come in their 
 formalities ; Sir Jonas Atkins was there with his guards ; and the Deane 
 and Prebendaries : one of his countrymen pronouncing a funeral ora- 
 tion at the brink of his grave, which I caus'd to be dug in the Quire. 
 This is more at large describ'd in the Gazette of that day. Col. 
 Reymes, my colleague in Commission, assisting, who was so kind as 
 to accompany me from London, tho' it was not his district, for indeede 
 the stresse of both these warrs lay more on me by far than on 
 any of my breathren, who had little to do in theirs. — I went to 
 sec Upnore Castle, which I found pretty well defended, but it was 
 of no greate moment. 
 
 Next day I sailed to the Fleete, now riding at the Buoy of the Nore, 
 where I met his IVIajesty, the Duke, Lord Arlington, and all the greate 
 men, in the Charles, lying miserably shatter'd ; but the misse of Lord 
 Sandwich redoubl'd the losse to me, and shew'd the folly of hazarding 
 so brave a fleete, and loosing so many good men for no provocation 
 but that the Hollanders exceeded us in commerce and Industrie, and 
 in all things but envy. 
 
 At Sheernesse I gave his Majesty and his Royal Highness an account 
 of my charge, and return'd to Queenborow ; next day dined at Major 
 Dorels, Governor of Shere-nesse ; thence to Rochester, and the 
 following day home. 
 
 12. To London to his Majesty, to solicite for mony for the sick and 
 wounded, which he promised me. 
 
 19. To London againe, to solicit the same. 
 
 21. At a Council of Plantations. Most of this weeke busied with 
 the sick and wounded. 
 
 3 July. To Lord Sandwich's funeral, which was by water to 
 Westminster in solemn pomp. 
 
 31 I entertaia'd the Maids 01 Honour (among whom there was 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 369 
 
 one I infinitely esteem'd for her many and extraordinary virtues) at a 
 
 comedy this afternoone, and so went home.' 
 
 • I Aug. I was at the marriage of Lord Arlington's onely daughter 
 (a sweete child if ever there was any") to the Duke of Grafton, the 
 King's natural son by the Dutchesse of Cleaveland. The Abp. of 
 Canterbury officiating, the King and all the grandees being present. 
 I had a favour given me by my Lady, but tooke no greate joy at the 
 thing for many reasons. 
 
 18. Sir James Hayes, Secretary to Prince Rupert, dined with me : 
 after dinner I was sent for to Gravesend, to dispose of no fewer than 
 800 sick men. That night I got to the Fleete at the Buoy of the 
 Nore, where I spake with the King and the Duke; and after dinner 
 next day retuin'd to Gravesend. 
 
 I Sept. I spent this weeke in soliciting for monies, and in reading 
 to my Lord Clifford my papers relating to the first Holland war. — Now 
 our Council of Plantations met at Lord Shaftesbury's (Chancellor of 
 the Exchequer) to reade and reforme the Draught of our new Patent, 
 joyning the Council of Trade to our political capacities. After this I 
 returned home in order to another excursion to the Sea-side, to get as 
 many as possible of the men who were recovered on board the Fleete. 
 
 8. I lay at Gravesend, thence to Rochester, returning on the nth. 
 
 I?. Dr. Duport, Greek Professor of Cambridge, preached before the 
 King on i Timothy 6. 6. No greate preacher, but a very worthy and 
 learned man. 
 
 25. I din'd at Lord John Berldey's (of Stratton), newly arriVd out 
 of Ireland, where he had ben Deputy ; it was in his new house ', or 
 rather palace, for I am assur'd it stood him in neere ^30,000. It is 
 very well built, and has many noble roomes, but they are not very con- 
 venient, consisting but of one Corps de Logis ; they are all roomes of 
 state, without clossets. The staire-case is of cedar, the furniture is 
 princely : the kitchen and stables are ill-placed, and the corridore 
 worse, having no report to the wings they joyne to. For the rest, the 
 fore court is noble, so are the stables, and above all, the gardens, which 
 are incomparable by reason of the inequalitie of the ground, and a 
 pretty piscina. The holly hedges on the terrace I advised the planting 
 of. The porticos are in imitation of an house described by Palladio, 
 but it happens to be the worst in his booke, tho' my good friend Mr. 
 Hugh May, his Lordship's architect, effected it. 
 
 26. I carried with me to dinner my Lord H. Howard (now to be 
 
 1 Mrs. Blagg, whom he afterwards characterizes as a rare example of piety and virtue in 
 Mrare a witt, beauty, and perfection, in a licentious court and depraved age. She was aiicr- 
 vards married to Mr. Godolphin. 
 
 2 She was then only 5 years old- 
 
 3 Berkley House was burnt to the ground by accident. The site was on a farm called 
 Hay-hfU Farm, the names of which are preserved in Hay-street, Hill-street, Farm-street, 
 Devonshire House, Lansdown House, Berkeley Square, &c. are built on pan of the ground. 
 
 24 
 
37© LADY SUNDERLAND. THE FIRE-EATER. THE TWt» COUNCILS, 
 
 made Earl of Norwich and Earl Marshall of England) to Sir Robert 
 Clayton's, now Sheriff of London, at his new house ', where we had a 
 peate feast ; it is built indeede for a greate Magistrate, at excessive 
 tost. The cedar dining-roome is painted with the historie of the 
 Gyants War, incomparably don by Mr. Streeter, but the figures are 
 too neere the eye. 
 
 6 Oct. Dr. Thistlethwait preached at White-hall on 2 Apoc. 5. a 
 young but good preacher. I received the blessed Communion, Dr. 
 Blandford, Bp. of Worcester, and Deane of the Chapel, officiating. 
 Dined at my Lord Cliffords with Lord Mulgrave, Sir Gilbert Talbot, 
 and Sir Robert Holmes. 
 
 8. I tooke leave of my Lady Sunderland, who was going to Paris to 
 my Lord, now Ambassador there. She made me stay dinner at Lei- 
 cester House, and afterwards sent for Richardson the famous Fire- 
 eater. Hedevour'd brimston on glowing coales before us, chewing and 
 swallowing them ; he mealted a beere-glasse and eate it quite up ; 
 then taking a live coale on his tongue, he put on it a raw oyster, the 
 coal was blown on with bellows till it flam'd and sparkl'd in his mouth, 
 and so remain'd till the oyster gaped and was quite boil'd ; then he 
 mealted pitch and wax with sulphur, which he drank downe as it 
 flamed ; I saw it flaming in his mouth a good while ; he also tooke up 
 athickpieceof yron, such as laundresses use to put in their smoothing- 
 boxes, when it was fiery hot, held it betweene his teeth, then in his 
 hand, and threw it about like a stone, but this I observ'd he car'd not 
 to hold very long ; then he stood on a small pot, and bending his body 
 tooke a glowing yron with his mouth from betweene his feete, without 
 touching the pot or ground with his hands ; with divers other pro- 
 digious feates. 
 
 13. After sermon (being summon'd before) I went to my Lord 
 Keeper's Sir Orlando Bridgeman at Essex House, where our new Patent 
 was opened and read, constituting us that were of the Council of Plan- 
 tations to be now of the Council of Trade also, both united. After the 
 Patent was read, we all tooke our oathes and departed. 
 
 24. Met in Council, the Earle of Shaftesbury, now our President, 
 swearing our Secretary and his Clearks, which was Mr. Lock, an excel- 
 lent learned gentleman and student of Christ Church, Mr. Lloyd and 
 Mr. Frowde. We dispatch'd a letter to Sir Tho. Linch, Governor of 
 Jamaica, giving him notice of a design of the Dutch on that island. 
 
 1 Situate in the Old Jewry. Sir Robert built it to keep his shrievalty, which he did with 
 great magnificence. It was for some years the residence of Mr. Samuel Sharp, an eminent 
 surgeon, and was afterwards occupied {viz. from i3o6 to the close of the year iSii) 
 by the London Institution for their library and reading rooms, previous to their temporary 
 removal to King's Arms Yard, Coleman Street. This Literary Institution, established by 
 Charter, is now finally settled in a new and splendid mansion, purposely erected by the pro- 
 prietors, from a design by Mr. \V. Brooks, on the North side of Moorfields (1818}. — Streeter'j 
 paintings have teen long placed in the family seat of Uje Claytons at Marden, near Godstone, 
 Surrey. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 37 1 
 
 • 27. 1 went to heare that famous preacher Dr. Frampton at St. 
 Giles's, on 39 Psalm 6. This Divine had been twice at Jerusalem, and 
 was not onely a very pious and holy man, but excellent in the pulpit 
 for the moving affections. 
 
 8 Nov. At Council we debated the buisinesse of the Consulage of 
 Leghorne. I was of the Committee with Sir Humphrey Winch the 
 Chaireman to examine the Lawes of his Majestys several! Plantations 
 and Colonies in the West Indies, &c. 
 
 15. Many Merchants were summon'd about the Consulage of 
 Venice ; which caused greate disputes ; the most considerable thought 
 it useless. This being the Queen Consort's birth-day, there was an 
 CKtraordinarie appearance of gallantrie, and a ball daunced at Court. 
 
 30. I was chosen Secretary to the Royall Society. 
 
 21 Dec. Settl'd the Consulage of Venice. 
 
 1673. I Jan. After publiq prayers in the Chapell at White-hall, 
 when I gave God solemne thanks for all his mercies to me the yeare 
 past, &c., and my humble supplications to him for his blessing the yeare 
 now entering, I returned home, having my poore deceased servant 
 (Adams) to bury, who died of pleurisie. 
 
 3. My sonn now publish'd his Version of ' Rapinus Hortorum.'i 
 
 28. Visited Don Francisco de Melos, the Portugal Ambassador, 
 who shew'd me his curious Collection of Books and Pictures. He was 
 a person of good parts, and a vertuous man. 
 
 6 Feb. To Council about reforming an abuse of the Diers with 
 Saundiis and other false drougs ; examin'd divers of that trade. 
 
 23. The Bishop of Chichester'' preach'd before the King on 2 Coloss. 
 14, 15. admirably well, as he can do nothing but what is well. 
 
 5 Mar. Our new Vicar Mr. Holden preach'd in White-hall Chapel 
 on 4 Psalm 6, 7. This gentleman is a very excellent and universal 
 scholar, a good and wise man, but he had not a popular way of preach- 
 ing, nor is in any measure fit for our plaine and vulgar auditorie, as his 
 predecessor was. There was, however, no comparison betwixt their 
 parts for profound learning ; but time and experience may forme him 
 to a more practical way than that he is in of University lectures and 
 erudition, which is now universally left »ff for what is much more 
 profitable. 
 
 15. I heard the speech made to the Lords in their House by Sir 
 Sam. Tuke in behalfe of the Papists, to take off the Penal Laws ; and 
 then din'd with Col. Norwood. 
 
 16. Dr. Pearson, Bishop of Chester,^ preach'd on 9th Hebrews 14; 
 
 1 Of Gardens. Four Books. First written in Latin verse, by Renatus Rapinus, and now 
 made English. By I. E. London, 1673. Dedicated to Henry Earle of Arlington, &c. 
 
 2 Dr. Peter Gunning, formerly Master of St. John's College, Cambridge, afterwards Bishop 
 of Ely. Burnet says of him that he was a man of great reading, a very honest, sincere man, 
 but of no sound judgment. Hist, of his own Times, L 297. 
 
 * Well known by his valuable Exposition of the Creed. 
 
372 SWORN A YOUNGER BROTHER OF THE TRINITY HOUSE. 
 
 a most incomparable sermon from one of the most learned Divines of 
 our Nation. I din'd at my Lord Arlington's with the Duke and Dutchesse 
 of Monmouth ; she is one of the wisest and craftiest of her sex, and 
 has much witt. Here was also the learned Isaac Vossius. 
 
 During Lent there is constantly the most excellent preaching by the 
 most eminent Bishops and Divines of the Nation. 
 
 26 Mar. I was sworn a younger brother of the Trinity House, with 
 my most worthy and long acquamted noble friend Lord Ossorie (eldest 
 son to the Duke of Ormond), Sir Richard Browne my father-in-law 
 being now Master of that Society ; after which there was a greate 
 collation. 
 
 29. I carried my sonn to the Bishop of Chichester, that learned and 
 pious man, Dr. Peter Gunning,' to be instructed by him before he 
 receiv'd the holy sacrament, when he gave him most excellent advice, 
 which I pray God may influence and remain with him as long as he 
 lives ; and O that I had been so blessed and instructed when first I 
 v/as admitted to that sacred ordinance ! 
 — 30. Easter Day : myself and sonn receiv'd the blessed communion, 
 it being his first time, and with that whole week's more extraordinary 
 preparation. I beseech God make him a sincere good Christian, whilst 
 I endeavour to instill into him the feare and love of God, and discharge 
 the duty of a father. 
 
 At the sermon coram Rege, preached by Dr. Sparrow, Bp. of Exceter, 
 to a most crowded auditorie, I staled to see whether according to cos- 
 tome the Duke of York receiv'd the communion with the King ; but he 
 did not, to the amazement of every body. This being the second 
 yeare he had forborne and put it off, and within a day of the Parliament 
 sitting, who had lately made so severe an Act against the increase of 
 Poperie, gave exceeding griefe and scandal to the whole Nation, that 
 the heyre of it, and the sonn of a Martyr for the Protestant religion, 
 should apostatize. What the consequence of this will be, God onely 
 knows, and wise men dread. 
 
 1 1 April. I dined with the Plenipotentiaries designed for the Treaty 
 of Nimeguen. 
 
 17. I carried Lady Tuke to thank the Countesse of Arlington for 
 speaking to his Majesty in her behalfe, for being one of the Queene 
 Consort's women. She carried us up into her new dressing-roome at 
 Goring House, where was abed, 2 glasses, silver jars and vasc-s, cabi- 
 nets, and other so rich furniture as I had seldom seene ; to this excesse 
 of superfluity were we now ariv'd, and that not onely at Court, but al- 
 most universally, even to wantonesse and profusion. 
 
 Dr. Compton, brother to the Earle of Nortliarnpton, preached on 
 I Corinth; 11 — 16. shewing the Churches power in ordaining things 
 
 ' See Note in preceding P"S^- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 373 
 
 fndilTerent ; this worthy person's talent is not preaching, but he is like 
 to make a grave and serious good man.' 
 
 I saw her Majesty's rich toylet in her dressing roome, being all of 
 massie gold, presented to her by the King, valued at 4000/. 
 
 26. Dr. Lamplugh preached at St. Martine's, the holy Sacrament 
 following which I partook of, upon obligation of the late Act of Parlia- 
 ment, enjoyning every body in oifice, civil or militarie, under penalty of 
 500/. to receive it within one moneth before two authentiq witnesses ; 
 being engrossed on parchment, to be afterwards produced in the Court 
 of Chancery, or some other Court of Record ; which I did at the 
 Chancery Barr, as being one of the Council of Plantations and Trade ; 
 taking then also the Oath of Allegiance and Supremacy, signing the 
 •clause in the said Act against Transubstantiation. 
 
 25 May. My sonn was made a younger Brother of the Trinity House, 
 The new Master was Sir Jer. Smith, one of the Commissioners of the 
 Navy, a stout seaman who had interpos'd and saved the Duke from 
 perishing by a fire-ship in the late warr. 
 
 28. I carried one Withers, an ingenious shipwright, to the King, 
 to shew him some new method of building. 
 
 29. 1 saw the Italian Comedie at the Court this afternoone. 
 
 10 June. Came to visite and dine with me, my Lord Viscount Corn- 
 bury and his Lady ; Lady Frances Hyde, sister to the Dutchesse of 
 York ; and Mrs. Dorothy Howard, Mayd of Honour. We went after 
 dinner to see the formal and formidable camp on Blackheath, raised to 
 invade Holland, or, as others suspected, for another designe. Thence 
 to the Italian Glass-house at Greenewich, where glasse was blown of 
 finer mettal than that of Murano at Venice. 
 
 13. Came to visit us, with other ladies of rank, Mrs. Sedley,' 
 daughter to Sir Charles, who was none of the most virtuous, but a witt. 
 
 19. Congratulated the new Lord Treasurer, Sir Tho. Osborne, a 
 gentleman with whom I had ben intimately acquainted at Paris, and 
 who was every day at my father-in-law's house and table there, on 
 which account I was too confident of succeeding in his favour, as I 
 had don in his predecessor's ; but such a friend shall I never find, and 
 I neglected my tiine, far from believing that my Lord Clifford would 
 have so rashly laide down his staffe as he did, to the amazement of all 
 the world, when it came to the test of his receiving the communion, 
 which 1 am confident he forbore more from some promise he had en- 
 ler'd into to gratifie the Duke, than for any prejudice to the Protestant 
 religion, tho' I found him wavering a pretty while. 
 
 23. To London, to accompanie our Council, who went in a body 
 
 * H-^nry, sixth son of the second Earl of Northampton, educated at Oxford, was a comet 
 in Lord Oxford's regiment of guards, took orders, and was successively Bishop of Oxford ami 
 t.ondon, in which lasi See he died, 171}, aged 81. 
 2 The Duke of York's mistress, and afterwards created by him Countess of Dorcheater. 
 
374 FtTOERAL OF SIR ROBT. MURRAY. PICTURES AT GUILDHALL, 
 
 to congratulate the new Lord Treasurer, no friend to it, because pro- 
 moted by my L. Arlington, whom he hated. 
 
 26. Came visitors from Court to dine with me, and see the army 
 still remaining encamped on Black-heath. 
 
 6 July. This evening I went to the funerall of my deare and excel- 
 lent friend, that good man and accomplish'd gentleman. Sir Robert 
 Murray,' Secretary of Scotland. He was buried by order of his 
 Majesty in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 25. I went to Tunbridge Wells to visite my Lord Clifford, late Lord 
 Treasurer, who was there to divert his mind more than his body ; it 
 was believ'd that he had so engag'd himselfe to the Duke, that rather 
 than take the test, without which he was not capable of holding any 
 office, he would resigne that greate and honourable station. This I am 
 confident grieVd him to the heart, and at last broke it ; for tho' he 
 carried with him musiq and people to divert him, and when 1 came to 
 see him, lodged me in his own apartment, and would not let me go 
 from him, I found he was struggling in his mind, and being of a rough 
 and ambitious nature, he could not long brooke the necessitie he had 
 brought on himselfe, of submission to this conjuncture. Besides he 
 saw the Dutch warr, which was made much by his advise, as well as 
 the shutting up of the Exchequer,' very unprosperous. These things 
 his high spirit could not support. Having staled here two or three 
 daies, I obtain'd leave of my Lord to returne. 
 
 In my way I saw my Lord of Dorset's house at Knowle, near Seven- 
 oaks, a greate old-fashion'd house. 
 
 30. To Council, where the business of transporting wool was 
 brought before us. 
 
 31. I went to see the pictures of all the Judges and eminent men 
 of the long robe, newly painted by Mr. Wright, and set up in Guild- 
 hall, costing the Citty 1000/. Most of them are very like the persons 
 they represent, tho' I never took Wright to be any considerable artist. 
 
 13 Aug. I rid to Durdans, where I din'd at my Lord Berkley's 
 of Berkeley Castle, my old and noble friend, it being his wedding an- 
 niversarie, where I found the Dutchesse of Albemarle and much com- 
 panie, and retum'd home that evening late. 
 
 15. Came to visit me my Lord Chancellor, the Earle of Shaftesbury. 
 
 18. My Lord Clifford being about this time retum'd from Tun- 
 bridge, and preparing for Devonshire, I went to take my leave of him 
 at Wallingford House ; he was packing up pictures, most of which 
 were of hunting wild beasts, and vast pieces of bull-baiting, beare- 
 
 1 He was universally beloved and esteemed by men of all sides and sorts. The life and 
 soul of the Royal Society. He delighted in every occasion of doing good. He had a supe- 
 riority of genius and comprehension. Burnet, vol. I. p. go. 
 
 2 Burnet says the Earl of Shaftesbury was the chief man in this advice. There is a story, 
 though I do not recollect the author, that Shaftesbury formed the plan, that Cliiford got at it 
 over a bottle of wuie, and carried it to the King as his own. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 375 
 
 baiting, &c. I found him in his study, and restored to him several 
 papers of state and others of importance, which he had furnished me 
 with, on engaging me to write the Historie of the Holland War, with 
 other private letters of his acknowledgments to my Lord Arlington, 
 who from a private gentleman of a very neble family, but inconsider- 
 able fortune, had advanc'd him from almost nothing. The first thing 
 was his being in Parliament then knighted, then made one of the 
 Commissioners of the sick and wounded, on which occasion we sate 
 long together ; then on the death of Hugh Pollard, he was made 
 Comptroller of the Household and Privy Counselor, yet still my brother 
 Commissioner ; after the death of Lord Fitz-Harding, Treasurer of the 
 Household, he by letters to Lord Arlington, which that Lord shew'd 
 me, begg'd of his Lordship to obtaine it for him as the very height of 
 his ambition ; these were written with such submissions and profes- 
 sions of his patronage, as I had never seen any more acknowledging. 
 The Earle of Southampton then dying, he was made one of the Com- 
 missioners of the Treasury. His Majestie inclining to put it into one 
 hand, my Lord Clifford, under pretence of making all his interest for his 
 patron my Ld. Arlington, cutt the grasse under his feet, and procur'd 
 it for himself, assuring the King that Lord Arlington did not desire it. 
 Indeede my Lord Arlington protested to me that his confidence in 
 Lord Clifford made him so remisse, and his affection to him was so 
 particular, that he was absolutely minded to devolve it on Lord Clif- 
 ford, all the world knowing how he himselfe affected ease and quiet, 
 now growing into yeares, yet little thinking of this go-by. This was 
 the onely greate ingratitude Lord Clifford shew'd, keeping my Lord 
 Arlington in ignorance, continually assuring him he was pursuing hi» 
 interest, which was the Duke's, into whose greate favour Lord Clif- 
 ford was now gotten, but which certainly cost him the losse of all, namely, 
 his going so irrevocably far in his interest. For the rest, my Lord 
 Clifford was a valiant uncorrupt gentleman, ambitious, not covetous ; 
 generous, passionate, a most constant sincere friend, to me in parti- 
 cular, so as when he layd downe his office, I was at the end of all 
 my hopes and endeavours ; these were not for high matters, but to 
 obtain what his Majesty was really indebted to my father-in-law, which 
 was the utmost of my ambition, and which I had undoubtedly ob- 
 tain'd if this friend had stood. Sir Tho. Osbom, who succeeded him, 
 tho' much more oblig'd to my father-in-law and his family, and my 
 long and old acquaintance, being of a more haughty and far lesse 
 obliging nature, I could hope for little ; a man of excellent natural 
 parts, but nothing of generous or grateful. 
 
 Taking leave of my Lord Cliffc^rd, he wrung me by the hand, and 
 looking earnestly on me, bid me God-b'ye, adding, ' Mr. E. I shall 
 never see thee more ;' ' No ! ' said I, ' my Lord, what's the meaning of 
 this ? I hope I shall see you often, and as greate a person againe.' 
 
376 SUICIDE OF LORD CLIFFORD. HIS ORIGIN AND PROSPERITY. 
 
 ' No, Mr. E. do not expect it, I will never see this place, this Citty 
 or Court againe,' or words of this sound. In this manner, not with- 
 out almost mutual tears, I parted from him : nor was it long after, but 
 the newes was that he was dead, and I have heard from some who I 
 believe knew, he made himself away, after an extraordinary melan- 
 choly. This is not confidently affirm'd, but a servant who lived in the 
 house, and afterwards with Sir Robt. Clayton, Lord Mayor, did, as 
 well as others, report it ; and when I hinted some such thing to Mr. 
 Prideaux, one of his trustees, he was not willing to enter into that 
 discourse. It was reported with these particelars ; that causing his 
 servant to leave him unusually one morning, locking himselfe in, he 
 strangled himselfe with his cravatt upon the bed-tester ; his servanc not 
 liking the manner of dismissing him, and looking thro' the key-hole 
 (as I remember), and seeing his master hanging, brake in before he 
 was quite dead, and taking him downe, vomiting a greate deale of 
 bloud, he was heard to utter these words, 'Well, let men say what 
 they will, there is a God, a just God above,' after which he spake no 
 mor2. This, if true, is dismal. Really he was the cheife occasion of 
 the Dutch warr, and of all that bloud which was lost at Bergen in at- 
 taquing the Smyrna fleete, and that whole quarrell. This leads me to 
 call to mind what my Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury affirm'd, not to me 
 onely, but to all my brethren the Councel of forraine plantations, when 
 not long after this accident being mention'd as we were one day sitting 
 in Councel, his Lordship told us this remarkeable passage ; that being 
 one day discoursing with him when he was only Sir Tho. Clifford, 
 speaking of men's advancement to greate charges in the Nation, 
 ' Well,' says he, ' my Lord, I shall he one of the greatest men in 
 England. Don't impute what I say either to fancy or vanity ; I am 
 certaine that I shall be a mighty man, but it will not last long ; I shall 
 not hold it, but dye a bloudy death.' ' What,' says my Lord, ' your 
 horoscope tells you so ?' ' No matter for that, it will be as I tell 
 you.' ' Well,' says my Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury, ' if I were of 
 that opinion, I either would not be a greate man, but decline prefer- 
 ment, or prevent my danger.' This my Lord affirmed in my hearing 
 before severall gentlemen and noblemen sitting in Council at White- 
 hall. And I the rather am confident of it, remembering what Sir Edw, 
 Walker (Garter King at Armes) had likewise affirm'd to me a long 
 time before, even when he was first made a Lord ; that carrying his 
 pedigree to Lord Clifford on his being created a Peer, and finding him 
 busy, he bid him go into his study and divert himself there till he was 
 at leisure to discourse with him about some things relating to his 
 family ; there lay, said Sir Edward, on his table, his horoscope and 
 nativity calculated, with some writing under it, where he read that he 
 should be advanc'd to the highest degree in the State that could be con- 
 ferr'd upon him, but that he should not long enjoy it, but should die, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 377 
 
 or expressions to that sense : and I think (but cannot confidently say) 
 a bloudy death. This Sir Edward affirm'd both to me and Sir Rich. 
 Browne, nor could I forbeare to note this extraordinary passage in 
 these meinoircs. 
 
 14 Sept. Dr. Creighton, son to the late eloquent Bishop of Bath 
 and Wells, preached to the Household on 57 Isaiah 8. 
 
 15. I procured 4000/. of the Lords of the Treasury, and rectified 
 divers matters about the sick and wounded. 
 
 16. To Council, about choosing a new Secretary. 
 
 17. I went with some friends to visit Mr. Bernard Grenville at Abs 
 Court in Surrey ; an old house in a pretty parke. 
 
 23. I went to see Paradise, a roome in Hatton Garden furnished 
 with the representations of all sorts of animals handsomely painted on 
 boards or cloth, and so cut out and made to stand, move, fly, crawl, 
 roare, and make their severall cries. The man who shewed it made 
 us laugh heartily at his formal poetrie. 
 
 15 Oct. To Council, and swore in Mr. Locke, secretary, Dr. Wors- 
 ley being dead. 
 
 27. To Council, about sending succours to recover New York ; and 
 then we read the Commission and Instructions to Sir Jonathan Atkins, 
 the New Governor of Barbados. 
 
 5 Nov. This night the youths of the Citty burnt the Pope in effi- 
 gie, after they had made procession with it in greate triumph, they 
 being displeas'd at the Duke for altering his religion and marrying an 
 Italian lady.' 
 
 On St. Andrew's Day I first saw the new Dutchesse of York, and 
 the Dutchesse of Modena her mother. 
 
 1 Dec. To Gressham College, whither the Citty had invited the 
 Royal Society by many of their cheife Alderman and Magistrates, who 
 gave us a collation, to welcome us to our first place of assembly, from 
 whence we had ben driven to give place to the Citty, on their making 
 it their Exchange, on the dreadfull conflagration, till their new Ex- 
 change was finish'd, which it now was. The Society having till now 
 ben entertain'd and met at Arundel House. 
 
 2. I dined with some friends, and visited the sick : thence to an 
 almes-house where was prayers and reliefe, some very ill and miserable. 
 It was one of the best dales 1 ever spent in my life. 
 
 3. There was dinner at my Lord Lockart, design'd Ambassador for 
 France, a gallant and a sober person. 
 
 9. I saw againe the Italian Dutchesse and her brother the Prince 
 Reynaldo. 
 
 20. I had some discourse with certaine strangers, not unlearned, 
 who had ben born not far from old Nineveh ; they assur'd me of the 
 mines being still extant, and vast and wonderfull were the buildings, 
 
 ' Tlie Pnncess Mary Beatrice D'Este, daughter of the Duke of Modena. 
 
378 CAREER AND SUCCESS OF SIR JOSEPH WILLIAMSON. 
 
 vaults, pillars, and magnificent fragments ; but they could say little of 
 the Toure of Babel that satisfied me : but the description of the 
 amoenitie and fragrancy of the country for health and cherefulnesse 
 delighted me, so sensibly they spake of the excellent aire and chmate 
 in respect of our cloudy and splenetic country. 
 
 24. Visited some prisoners at Ludgate, taking orders about the re- 
 leasing of some. 
 
 30. I gave Almighty God thanks for his infinite goodnesse to me 
 the yeare past, and begged his mercie and protection the yeare fol- 
 lowing : afterwards invited my neighbours to spend the day with me. 
 
 1674, 5 Jan. I saw an Italian Opera in musiq, the first that had ben 
 in England of this kind. 
 
 9. Sent for by his Majesty to write something against the Hol- 
 landers about the duty of the Flag and Fisherie. Return'd with some 
 papers. 
 
 25 March. I dined at Knightsbridge with the Bishops of Sahsbury, 
 Chester, and Lincoln, my old friends. 
 
 29 May. His Majestie's birth-day and Restauration. Mr. Demal- 
 hoy, Roger L'Estrange, and severall of my friends, came to dine with 
 me on the happy occasion. 
 
 27 June. Mr. Dryden, the famous Poet and now Laureat, came to 
 give me a visite. It was the anniversarie of my marriage, and the first 
 day I went into my new little cell and cabinet, which I built below 
 towards the South court, at the East end of the parlor. 
 
 9 July. Paid ^.360 for purchase of Dr. Jacomb's son share in the 
 mill and land at Deptford, which I bought of the Beechers. 
 
 22. I went to Windsor with my wife and sonn to see my daughter 
 Mary, who was there with my Lady Tuke, and to do my duty to his 
 Majesty. Next day to a greate entertainment at Sir Robert Holmes's 
 at Cranburn Lodge in the Forest ; there were his Majesty, the Queene, 
 •Duke, Dutchesse, and all the Court. I return'd in the evening with 
 Sir Joseph Williamson, now declar'd Secretary of State. He was sonn 
 of a poore clergyman somewhere in Cumberland, brought up at Queen's 
 Coll. Oxford, of which he came to be a fellow ; then travell'd with 
 
 and returning when the King was restor'd, was receiv'd 
 
 as a Cleark under Mr. Secretary Nicholas ; Sir Henry Bennett (now 
 Lord Arlington) succeeding, Williamson is transferred to him, who 
 loving his ease more than businesse (tho' sufficiently able had he 
 applied himselfe to it) remitted all to his man Williamson, and in a 
 short time let him so into the seacret of affaires, that (as his Lordship 
 himselfe told me) there was a kind of necessity to advance him ; and 
 so by his subtlety, dexterity, and insinuation, he got now to be prin- 
 cipal Secretary ; absolutely Lord Arlington's creature, and ungratefuU 
 enough. It has ben the fate of this obliging favorite to advance those 
 who soone forgot their originaL Sir Joseph was a musitian, could play 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 379 
 
 at yeu de Goblets, exceeding formal, a severe master to his servants, 
 but so inward with my Lord Obrien, that after a few moneths of that 
 gentleman's death, he married his widow,' who, being sister and heire 
 of the Duke of Richmond, brought him a noble fortune. 'Twas 
 thought they liv'd not so kindly after marriage as they did before. She 
 ■was much censur'd for marrying so meanly, being herselfe allied to the 
 Royal family. 
 
 6 Aug. I went to Groombridge to see my old friend Mr. Packer, the 
 house built within a moate, in a woody valley. The old house had ben 
 the place of confinement of the Duke of Orleans, taken by one Waller 
 (whose house it then was) at the Battle of Agincourt, now demolish'd, 
 and a new one built in its place, tho' a far better situation had ben on 
 the South of the wood, on a graceful ascent. At some small distance 
 is a large chapell, not long since built by Mr. Packer's father, on 
 a vow he made to do it on the return of King Charles I. out of 
 Spaine, 1625, and dedicated to St. Charles, but what saint there was 
 then of that name I am to seeke, for, being a Protestant, I conceive it 
 was not Borromeo. 
 
 I went to see my farme at Ripe neere Lewes. 
 
 19. His Majesty told me how exceedingly the Dutch were dis- 
 pleas'd at my treatise of the ' Historic of Commerce ' ^ ; that the Hol- 
 land Ambassador had complain'd to him of what I had touch'd of the 
 Flags and Fishery, &c. and desired the booke might be call'd in ; 
 whilst on the other side he assur'd me he was exceedingly pleas'd with 
 what I had done, and gave me many thanks. However, it being just 
 upon conclusion of the treaty of Breda (indeed it was design'd to have 
 ben publish'd some moneths before, and when we were at defiance), 
 his Majesty told me he must recall it formally, but gave order that what 
 copies should be publiqly seiz'd to pacific the Ambassador, should im- 
 mediately be restor'd to the Printer, and that neither he nor the vendor 
 should be molested. The truth is, that which touch'd the Hollander 
 was much lesse than what the King himselfe furnish'd me with, and 
 oblig'd me to publish, having caus'd it to be read to him before it went 
 to the presse ; but the error was, it should have ben publish'd before 
 the peace was proclaim'd. The noise of this book's suppression made 
 it presently be bought up, and turn'd much to the stationer's advantage. 
 It was no other than the Preface prepar'd to be prefix'd to my History 
 of the whole Warr ; which I now pursued no further. 
 
 1 Lady Catherine Stuart, sister and heir to Charles Stuart Duke of Richmond and Lennox, 
 the husband of that admired beauty Mrs. Frances Stuart, with whom Charles the Second was 
 so deeply in love, that he never forgave the Duke for marrying her, which, it is thought, he 
 had formed some intention of doing himself. He took the first opportunity of sending him 
 into an honourable exile, as Ambassador to Denmark, where he shortly after died, leaving no 
 issue by the Duchess. 
 
 2 Entitled, ' Navigation and Commerce, theii- Original and Progress, &c. By I. Evelyn, 
 Esq. S. R. S.' 8vo. 1674. Dedicated to the King. 
 
j8o SIEGE OF MAESTRICHT. COLL. MORGAN. DR. BURNET. 
 
 21. In one of the meadows at the foote of the long Terrace below the 
 Castle [Windsor], works were thrown up to shew the King a repre- 
 sentation of the Citty of Maestricht, newly taken by the French. Bas- 
 tions, bulwarks, ramparts, palisadoes, graffs, hornworks, counterscarps, 
 &c. were constructed. It was attack'd by the Duke of Monmouth 
 (newly come from that real siege) and the Duke of York, with a l>ttle 
 army, to shew their skill in tactics. On Saturday night they made 
 their approches, open'd trenches, rais'd batteries, tooke the counter- 
 scarp, and ravelin after a stout defence ; greate gunns fir'd on both sides, 
 granados shot, mines sprung, parties sent out, attempts of raising the 
 siege, prisoners taken, parleys, and in short all the circumstances of a 
 formal siege to appearance, and, what is most strange, all without dis- 
 order or ill accident, to the greate satisfaction of a thousand spectators. 
 Being night, it made a formidable shew. The siege being over, 1 went 
 with Mr. Pepys back to London, where we ariv'd about three in 
 the morning. 
 
 15 Sept. To Council, about fetching away the English left at Suri- 
 nam, &c. since our reconciliation with Holland. 
 
 21. I went to see the greate lossethat Lord Arlington had sustain'd 
 by fire at Goring house, this night consum'd to the ground, with ex- 
 ceeding losse of hangings, plate, rare pictures, and cabinets ; hardly 
 any thing was sav'd of the best and most princely furniture that any 
 subject had in England. My lord and lady were at the time both 
 absent at the Bathe. 
 
 6 Oct. The Lord Chief Baron Turner, and Serjeant Wild, Recorder 
 of London, came to visite me. 
 
 20. At Lord Berkeley's I discours'd with Sir Thomas Modiford, late 
 Governor of Jamaica, and with Col. Morgan, who undertooke that 
 gallant exploit from Nombre de Dios to Panama, on the Continent of 
 America ; he told me 10,000 men would easily conquer all the Spanish 
 Indies, they were so secure. They tooke greate booty, and much 
 greater had ben taken, had they not been betraied and so discover'd 
 before their approch, by which the Spaniards had time to carry their 
 vast treasure on board ships that put off to sea in sight of our men, who 
 had no boates to follow. They set fire to Panama, and ravaged the 
 country 60 miles about. The Spaniards were so supine and unexercis'd. 
 that they were afraid to fire a greate gun. 
 
 31. My birth-day, 54th yeare of my life. Blessed be God. It was 
 also preparation-day for the holy Sacrament, in which I participated the 
 next day, imploring God's protection for the yeare following, and con- 
 firming my resolutions of a more holy life, even upon the Holy Booke. 
 The Lord assist and be gracious unto me. Amen. 
 
 15 Nov. The Anniversarie of my baptisme : I first heard that famous 
 and excellent preacher Dr. Burnet (author of the History of the Refor- 
 mation) on 3 Coloss. 10, with such a flow of eloquence and fullness of 
 matter, as shew'd him to be a person of extraordinary parts. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 38 1 
 
 The night being her Majesty's birth-day, the Court was exceeding 
 Splendid in clothes and Jewells, to the height of excesse. 
 
 17. To Council, on the business of Surinam, where the Dutch had 
 detain'd some English in prison ever since the first war 1665. 
 
 19. I heard that stupendous violin. Signer Nicholao (with other rare 
 musitians), whom I never heard mortal man exceed on that instrument. 
 He had a stroak so sweete, and made it speake like the voice of a man, 
 and, when he pleas'd, like a consort of severall instruments. He did 
 wonders upon a note, and was an excellent composer. Here was also 
 that rare lutenist Dr. Wallgrave ; but nothing approch'd the violin in 
 Nicholao's hand. He plaied such ravishing things as astonish'd us all. 
 
 2 Dec. At Mr. Shngsby's, Master of the Mint, my worthy friend, 
 a greate lover of musiq. Heard Signor Francisco on the harpsichord, 
 esteem'd one of the most excellent masters in Europe on that instrument; 
 then came Nicholao with his violin, and struck all mute but Mrs. 
 Knight, who sung incomparably, and doubtlesse has the greatest reach 
 of any English woman ; she had lately ben roaming in Italy, and was 
 of York much improv'd in that quality. 
 
 1 5. Saw a comedie ' at night at Court, acted by the ladies onely, 
 amongst them Lady Mary and Ann, his Royal Highnesses two daugh- 
 ters, and my dear friend Mrs. Blagg, who having the principal part, 
 perform'd it to admiration. They were all cover'd with Jewells. 
 
 22.' Was at the repetition of the Pastoral, on which occasion Mrs. 
 Blagg had about her neere ^.20,000 worth of Jewells, of which she 
 lost one worth about ;iC.8o, borrow'd of the Countess of Suffolk. The 
 press was so greate, that 'tis a wonder she lost no more. The Duke 
 of York made it good. 
 
 1675. 20 Jan. Went to see Mr. Streeter, that excellent painter of 
 perspective and landskip, to comfort and encourage him to be cut for 
 the stone, with which that honest man was exceedingly afflicted.' 
 
 22 Mar. Supp'd at Sir William Petty's with the Bp. of Salisbury 
 and divers honorable persons. We had a noble entertainment in a 
 house gloriously furnish'd ; the master and mistress of it were extraor- 
 dinary persons. Sir William was the sonn of a meane man some 
 where in Sussex, and sent from Scheie to Oxon, where he studied 
 Philosophy, but was most eminent in Mathematics and Mechanics: 
 proceeded Dr. of Physick, and was grown famous, as for his learning 
 
 1 This was the Masque of * Calisto, or the Chaste Nymph,' hy John Crowne. The per- 
 formers in the piece were, the two daughters of the Duke of York, Lady Hem-ietta Went- 
 worth (afterwards mistress to the Duke of Monmouth), Countess of Sussex, Lady Mary 
 Alordaunt, Mrs. Blagg, who had been Maid of Honour to the Queen, and Mrs. Jennings, then 
 Maid of Honour to the Duchess of York, and who was afterwards the celebrated Duchess of 
 Marlborough. The Duke of Monmouth, Lord Dumblaine, Lord Daincourt, and others, were 
 the dancers : and Mrs. Davis, Mrs, Kntght, Mrs. Butler, and others, hkewise acted and sung 
 in the performance. Printed, London 167s, in 4to. 
 
 2 The Kmg, it is said, who had a great regard for this artist, sent fcr a famous surgeon from 
 Paris, on piuTKKe to perform the operation. 
 
382 SIR WILLIAM PETTY, HIS SERVICES, TALENTS, AND SUCCESS. 
 
 SO for his recovering a poor wench that had ben hanged for felony ; 
 and her body having ben begged (as the custom is) for the anatomie 
 lecture, he bled her, put her to bed to a warm woman, and with spirits 
 and other meanes restored her to hfe.' The young scholars joyn'd and 
 made her a little portion, and married her to a man who had severall 
 children by her, she living 15 yeares after, as 1 have ben assur'd. Sir 
 William came from Oxon, to be tutor to a neighbour of mine ; thence, 
 when the rebells were dividing their conquests in Ireland, he was em- 
 ploy'd by them to measure and set out the land, which he did on an 
 easy contract, so much per acre. This he effected so exactly, that it 
 not only furnish 'd him with a greate sum of money, but enabled him to 
 purchase an estate worth ^.4000 a yeare. He afterwards married the 
 daughter of Sir Hardresse Waller ; she was an extraordinary witt as 
 well as beauty, and a prudent woman. 
 
 Sir William, amongst other inventions, was author of the double-bot- 
 tom'd ship, which tho' it perish'd, and he was censur'd for rashnesse, 
 being lost in the Bay of Biscay in a storme when, I think, 15 other 
 vessells miscarried. The vessell was flat-bottom'd, of exceeding use to 
 put into shallow ports, and ride over small depths of water. It con- 
 sisted of 2 distinct keeles crampt together with huge timbers, &:c. so as 
 that a violent streame ran betweene ; it bare a monstrous broad saile, 
 and he still persists that it is practicable and of exceeding use ; and he 
 has often told me he would adventure himselfe in such another, could 
 he procure sailors, and his Majestys permission to make a second 
 Experiment, which name the King gave it at the launching. 
 
 The Map of Ireland made by Sir William Petty is behev'd to be the 
 most exact that ever yet was made of any country. He did promise to 
 publish it; and I am told it has cost him neare ^.1000 to have it 
 engrav'd at Amsterdam. There is not a better Latine poet living when 
 he gives himselfe that diversion ; nor is his excellence less in Council 
 and prudent matters of state ; but he is so exceeding nice in sifting 
 and examining all possible contingencies, that he adventures at nothing 
 which is not demonstration. There were not in the whole world his 
 equal for a superintendant of manufacture and improvement of trade, 
 or to govern a Plantation. If I were a Prince, I should make him my 
 second Counsellor at least. There is nothing difficult to him. He is 
 besides courageous, on which account I cannot but note a true storie of 
 
 1 For a full account of this very remarkable event, see a pamphlet, entitled, * Newes from 
 the Dead, or a true and exact narration of the miraculous Deliverance of Anne Greene, who 
 being executed at Oxford Dec. 14, 1650, afterwards revived ; and by the care of certain 
 Physicians there is now perfectly recovered. Oxford, the second Impression, with Additions, 
 4to, i65[.' Added to the Narrative are several Copies of Verses in Latin, English, and French, 
 by Gentlemen of the University, commemorative of the story ; amongst others, one by Joseph 
 Williamson, afterwards Secretary of State, another by Christopher Wren, the famous archi- 
 tect, then of Wadham College, Walter Pope, Dr. Ralph Bathurst (the last under other names), 
 ■ad many more. This was reprinted, but very negligently, from the first and worst edition* 
 in Morgan's ' Phoenix Britannicus,' 4to. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 383 
 
 him, that when Sir Aleyn Brodrick sent him a challenge upon a differ' 
 ence 'twixt them in Ireland, Sir William, tho' exceedingly purblind, 
 accepted the challenge, and it being his part to propound the weapon, 
 desir'd his antagonist to meete him with a hatchet or axe in a dark 
 cellar, which the other of course refused. Sir William was, with all 
 this, facetious and of easy conversation, friendly and courteous, and had 
 such a faculty of imitating others, that he would take a text and preach, 
 now like a brave orthodox divine, then falling into the Presbyterian 
 way, then to the phanatical, the quaker, the monk and friar, the 
 Popish priest, with such admirable action, and alteration of voice and 
 tone, as it was not possible to abstain from wonder, and one would 
 sweare to heare severall persons, or forbear to think he was not in good 
 earnest an enthusiast and almost beside himselfe ; then he would fall 
 out of it into a serious discourse ; but it was very rarely he would be 
 prevail'd on to oblige the company with this faculty, and that only 
 amongst most intimate friends. My Lord Duke of Ormond once 
 obtain'd it of him, and was almost ravish'd with admiration ; but by 
 and by he fell upon a serious reprimand of the faults and miscarriages 
 of some Princes and Governors, which tho' he nam'd none, did so sen- 
 sibly touch the Duke, who was then Lieutenant of Ireland, that he 
 began to be very uneasy, and wish'd the spirit lay'd which he had 
 rais'd, for he was neither able to endure such truthes, nor could he but 
 be delighted. At lait he mealted his discourse to a ridiculous subject, 
 and came down from the joynt stoole on which he had stood ; but my 
 lord would not have him preach any more. He never could get favour 
 at Court, because he outwitted all the projectors that came neere him. 
 Having never known such another genius, I cannot but mention these 
 particulars amongst a multitude of others which I could produce. 
 When I who knew him in mean circumstances have ben in his splendid 
 palace, he would himselfe be in admiration how he ariv'd at it ; nor 
 was it his value or inclination for splendid furniture and the curiosities 
 of the age, but his elegant lady could endure nothing meane, or that 
 was not magnificent. He was very negligent himselfe, and rather so 
 of his person, and of a philosophic temper. ' What a to-do is here !' 
 would he say, ' I can lie in straw with as much satisfaction.' 
 
 He is author of the ingenious deductions from the bills of mortality, 
 which go under the name of Mr. Graunt ; also of that useful discourse 
 of the manufacture of wool, and several others in the register of the 
 Royal Society. He was also author of that paraphrase on the I04tb 
 Psalm in Latin verse, which goes about in MS. and is inimitable. In 
 a word, there is nothing impenetrable to him. 
 
 26 March. Dr. Brideoake was elected Bishop of Chichester on the 
 translation of Dr. Gunning to Ely. 
 
 30. Dr. AUestree preached on 6 Romans 3, the necessitie of those 
 who are baptized to die to sinn ; a very excellent discourse from an 
 excellent preacher. 
 
384 AT THE ROYAL SOCIETY. A CONFERENCE. MONS, QUEROUAILLE. 
 
 25 April. Dr. Barrow,' that excellent, pious, and most learned man, 
 divine, mathemtitician, poet, traveller, and most humble person, 
 preach'd at White-hall to the household, on 20 Luke 27, of love and 
 charitie to our neighbours. 
 
 29. 1 read my first discourse ' Of Earth and Vegetation,' before the 
 Royall Society, as a lecture in course after Sir Rob. Southwell had 
 read his the weeke before On Water. I was commanded by our Pre- 
 sident and the suffrage of the Society to print it. 
 
 16 May. This day was my deare friend Mrs. Blagg married at the 
 Temple Church to my friend Mr. Sidney Godolphin, Groome of the 
 Bed-Chamber to his Majesty. 
 
 18. I went to visite one Mr. Bathurst, a Spanish merchant, who 
 v/as my neighbour. 
 
 31. I went with Lord Ossorie to Deptford, where we chose bim 
 Master of the Trinity Company. 
 
 2 June. I was at a conference of the Lords and Commons in the 
 Painted Chamber, on a difference about imprisoning some of their 
 members : and on the 3d, at another conference, when the Lords ac- 
 cused the Commons for their transcendent misbehaviour, breach of 
 privilege. Magna Charta, subversion of government, aad other high, 
 provoking, and diminishing expressions, shewing what duties and sub- 
 jection they owed to the Lords in Parliament by record of Hen. IV. 
 This was likely to create a notable disturbance. 
 
 1 5. This afternoone came Monsieur Querouaille and his lady, parents 
 to the famous beauty and ***** favorite at Court, to see Sir R. 
 Browne, with whom they were intimately acquainted in Bretagne, at 
 the time Sir Richard was sent to Brest to supervise his Majestys sea 
 affaires, during the later part of the King's banishment. This gentle- 
 man's house was not a mile from Brest ; Sir Richard made an acquaint- 
 ance there, and being used very civily, was obliged to returne it here, 
 which we did. He seem'd a souldierly person and a good fellow, as the 
 Bretons generally are ; his lady had ben very handsome, and seem'd a 
 shrewd understanding woman. Conversing with him in our garden, I 
 found severall words of the Breton language the same with our Welch. 
 His daughter was now made Dutchess of Portsmouth and in the height 
 of favour, but he never made any use of it. 
 
 27. At Ely House, 1 went to the consecration of my worthy friend 
 the learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queenes Coll. Oxon, now made 
 Bishop of Lincoln. After it, succeeded a magnificent feast, where 
 were the D. of Ormond, E. of Lauderdaile, the Lord Treasurer, 
 Lord Keeper, &c. 
 
 8 July. I went with Mrs. Howard and her two daughters towards 
 Northampton Assizes, about a tryal at law, in which I was concerned 
 
 1 Master of Trinity College, Cambridge ; succeeded Dr. John Peareon, when made 
 £ishop of Chester. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 385 
 
 for them as Trustee. We lay this night at Henley on the Thames at 
 our attorney Mr. Stephens's, who entertain'd us very handsomely.— 
 Next day, dining at Shotover, at Sir Tim. Tyrill's, a sweete place, we 
 lay at Oxford, where it was the time of the Act. Mr. Robert Spencer, 
 unkle to the Earle of Sunderland, and my old acquaintance in France, 
 entertain'd us at his apartment in Christ Church, with exceeding gene- 
 rosity. — The loth, the Vice-Chancellor, Dr. Bathurst (who had for- 
 merly taken particular care of my sonn), President of Trinity CoUedge, 
 invited me to dinner, and did me greate honour all the time of my stay. 
 The next day he invited me and all my company, tho' strangers to him, 
 to a very noble feasL I was at all the academic exercises. — Sonday, at 
 St. Maries, preach'd a Fellow of Brazen-nose, not a little magnifying 
 the dignity of Church-men. — The 1 1 th, we heard the speeches, and 
 saw the ceremonie of creating Doctors in Divinity, Law, and Physic. 
 1 had early in the morning heard Dr. Morison, Botanic Professor, 
 reade on divers plants in the Physic Garden ; and saw that rare collec- 
 tion of natural curiosities of Dr. Plot's, of Magdalen Hall, author of 
 ' The Natural History of Oxfordshire,' all of them collected in that 
 Shire, and indeede extraordinary, that in one County there should be 
 found such varietie of plants, shells, stones, minerals, marcasites, iouls, 
 insects, models of works, chrystals, achates, and marbles. He was 
 now intending to visite Staffordshire, and as he had of Oxfordshire, to 
 give us the natural, topical, political, and mechanical history. Pitty 
 it is that more of this industrious man's genius were not employ'd so 
 to describe every County of England ; it would have been one of 
 the most usefuU and illustrious workes that was ever produced in 
 any age or nation. 
 
 I visited also the Bodleian Library, and my old friend the learned 
 Obadiah Walker, head of University Coll. which he had now almost 
 rebuilt or repair'd. We then proceeded to Northampton, where we 
 arived the next day. 
 
 In this journey went part of the way Mr. Ja. Graham (since Privy 
 Purse to the Duke), a young gentleman exceedingly in love with Mrs. 
 Dorothy Howard, one of the Mayds of Honour in our company. I 
 could not but pitty them both, the mother not much favouring it. 
 This lady was not onely a greate beauty, but a most virtuous and ex- 
 cellent creature, and worthy to have ben wife to the best of men. My 
 advice was required, and I spake to the advantage of the young gen- 
 tleman, more out of pitty than that she deserved no better match, for tho' 
 he was a gentleman of a good family, yet there was greate inequalitie. 
 
 14. I went to see my Lord Sunderland's seat at Althorp, 4 miles 
 from the ragged towne of Northampton (since burned, and well rebuilt). 
 'Tis placed in a pretty open bottome, very finely watred and flanqued 
 with stately woods and groves in a parke, with a canall, but the water 
 is not running, which is a defect The house a kind ot modem 
 
 25 
 
386 ALTHORP HOUSE. SERVANTS IN LOVE. DR. SPRAT. 
 
 building of freestone, within most nobly furnished. The apait- 
 iTienls very commodious, a gallerie and noble hall, but the kitchen 
 being in the body of the house and chapell too small, were defects. 
 There is an old yet honourable gate-house standing awry, and out- 
 housing meane, but design'd to be taken away. It was moated round 
 after the old manner, but it is now dry, and turfed with a beautifull 
 carpet. Above all are admirable and magnificent the several! ample 
 gardens furnish'd with the choicest fruite, and exquisitely kept. Create 
 plenty of oranges and other curiosities. The parke full of foule, espe- 
 cialy hemes, and from it a prospect to Holmby House, which being 
 demolish'd in the late civil warrs, shews like a Roman ruine, shaded 
 by the trees about it, a stately, solemn, and pleasing view. 
 
 15. Our cause was pleaded in behalfe of the mother, Mrs. Howard ' 
 and her daughters, before Baron Thurland, who had formerly ben 
 steward of Courts for me ; we carried our cause, as there was reason, 
 for here was an imprudent as well as disobedient sonn against his mo- 
 ther, by instigation doubtlesse of his wife, one Mrs. Ogle (an ancient 
 maid), whom he had clandestinely married, and who brought him no 
 fortune, he being heire apparent of the Earle of Berkshire. We lay at 
 Brickhill in Bedfordshire, and came home late next day. 
 
 This was a journey of adventures and knight errantry. One of the 
 lady's servants being as desperately in love with Mrs. Howard's woman 
 as Mr. Craham was with her daughter, and she riding on horseback 
 behind his rival, the amorous and jealous youth having a little drink in 
 his pate, had here killed himselfe had he not ben prevented ; for, 
 alighting from his horse, and drawing his sword, he endeavoured twice 
 or thrice to fall on it, but was interrupted by our coachman and a 
 stranger passing by. After this, running to his rival and snatching 
 his sword from his side (for we had beaten his owne out of his hand), 
 and on the suddaine pulling downe his mistresse, would have run both 
 of them thro'; we parted them, but not without some blood. This 
 miserable creature poyson'd himselfe for her not many daies after they 
 came to London. 
 
 July 19. The Lord Tressurers Chaplaine preached at Walling- 
 ford House. 
 
 9 Aug. Dr. Sprat, prebend of Westminster and Chaplain to the 
 Duke of Buckingham, preached on the 3rd Epistle of Jude, shewing 
 
 ^ Mrs. Howard was widow of William fourth son of the first Earl of Berkeshire, being the 
 daughter of Lord Dundass of the kingdom of Scotland. They had one son Craven Howard, 
 and two daughters, Dorothy, who married Col. James Grehme of Levens in Westmoreland ; 
 and Anne, who married Sir Gabriel Sylvius, Knt. Craven married two wives, the first «f 
 which was Anne, daughter of Tho. Ogle of Pinchbock, co. Line. Esq. ; then maid of honour 
 to Queen Catherine. Collins's Peerage. 
 
 These two daughters are the ladies here mentioned by Mr. Evelyn ; but he is not correct 
 ioi calling Craven heir apparent of the Earl of Berks, as besides the uncle then in possessioa 
 of the title, there was another uade before him, who in fact inherited it, and did not die tUS 
 Baoy years after. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 387 
 
 what the primitive faith was, how neere it and how excellent that of the 
 Church of England, also the danger of departing from it. 
 
 27. I visited the Bishop of Rochester at Bromely, and dined at Sir 
 Philip Warwick's at Frogpoole [Frognall]. 
 
 2 Sept. I went to see Dulwich Colledge, being the pious foundation 
 of one Allen, a famous Comedian in King James's time. The Chapell 
 is pretty, the rest of the Hospital very ill contriv'd ; it yet maintaines 
 divers poore of both sexes. 'Tis in a melancholy part of Camerwell 
 parish. I -came back by certaine medicinal Spa waters, at a place called 
 Sydnam Wells in Lewisham parish, much trequented in Summer. 
 
 10. I was casually shewed the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's splendid 
 appartment at White-hall, luxuriously furnished, and with ten times the 
 richnesse and glory beyond the Queenes ; such massy pieces of plate, 
 whole tables, & stands, of incredible value. 
 
 29. I saw the Italian Scaramucchio act before the King at White- 
 hall, people giving money to come in, which was very scandalous, and 
 never so before at Court diversions. Having scene him act before in 
 Italy, many yeares past, I was not averse from seeing the most excel- 
 lent of that kind of folly. 
 
 14 Oct. Din'd at Kensington with my old acquaintance Mr. Hen- 
 shaw, newly return'd from Denmark, where he had ben left resident 
 after the death of the Duke of Richmond, who died there Ambassador^ 
 
 15. I got an extreme cold, such as was afterwards so epidemical, as 
 not only to afflict us in this island, but was rife over all Europe, like a 
 plague. It was after an exceeding dry summer and autumn. 
 
 I settled affaires, my sonn being to go into France with my Lord 
 Berkeley, design'd Ambassador extraordinary for France and Plenipo- 
 tentiary for the general treaty of peace at Nimeguen. 
 
 24. Din'd at Lord Chamberlain's with the Holland Ambassador L. 
 Duras, a valiant gentleman whom his Majesty made an English Baron, 
 of a cadet, and gave him his seate of Holmby in Northamptonshire 
 [since Earle of Feversham]. 
 
 27. Lord Berkeley coming into Council, fell downe in the gallerie 
 at White-hall in a fit of apoplexie, and being carried into my Lord 
 Chamberlaines lodgings, severall famous doctors were employed all that 
 night, and with much ado he was at last recover'd to some sense, by 
 applying hot fire-pans and spirit of amber to his head, but nothing was 
 found so effectual as cupping him on the shoulders. It was an almost 
 miraculous restauration. The next day he was carried to Berkeley 
 House. This stopp'd his journey for the present, and caused my stay 
 in towne. He had put all his affaires and his whole estate in England 
 into my hands during his intended absence, which tho' I was very unfit 
 to undertake, in reguard of many businesses which then took me up, 
 yet upon the greate importunity of my lady and Mr. Godolphin (to 
 whom I could refuse nothing) I did take it on me. It seemes when he 
 
388 LORD BERKELEY. MRS. HAMILTON. LADY MORDAUNT. 
 
 was Deputy in Ireland, not long before, he had ben much wronged by 
 one he left in trust with his affaires, and therefore wished for some un- 
 mercenary friend who would take that trouble on him ; this was to re- 
 ceive his rents, look after his houses and tenants, solicite supplies from 
 the Lord Treasurer, and correspond weekly with him, more than enough 
 to employ any drudge in England ; but what will not friendship and 
 love make one do ? 
 
 31. Din'd at my Lord Chamberlain's with my sonn. There were 
 the learned Isaac Vossius and Spanhemius, son of the famous man of 
 Heidelburg, nor was this gentleman less learned, being a generall 
 scholar. Amongst other pieces he was author of an excellent treatise 
 on Medails. 
 
 10 Nov. Being the day appointed for my Lord Ambassador to set 
 out, I met them with my coach at New Crosse. There were with him 
 my Lady his wife and my deare friend Mrs. Godolphin, who out of an 
 .extraordinary friendship would needes accompany my lady to Paris, 
 and stay with her sometime, which was the chiefe inducement for per- 
 mitting my sonn to travel, but I knew him safe under her inspection, 
 and in reguard my Lord himselfe had promis'd to take him into his 
 ■special favour, he having intrusted all he had to my care. 
 
 Thus we set out, 3 coaches (besides mine), 3 waggons, and about 
 forty horse. It being late, and my lord as yet but valetudinarie, we got 
 but to Dartford the first day ; the next to Sittingbourne. 
 
 At Rochester, the major, Mr. Cony, then an officer of mine for the 
 sick and wounded of that place, gave the ladies a handsome refresh- 
 ment as we came by his house. 
 
 12. We came to Canterbury, and next morning to Dover. 
 
 There was in my Lady Ambassadresses company my Lady Hamil- 
 ton, a sprightly young lady, much in the good graces of the family, wife 
 of that valiant and worthy gentleman Geo. Hamilton, not long after 
 slaine in the warrs. She had ben a maid of honour to the Dutchesse, 
 and now turn'd Papist. 
 
 14. Being Sonday, my Lord having before deliver'd to me his letter 
 of attorney, keyes, scale, and his will, we took solemn leave of one 
 another upon the beach, the coaches carrying them into the sea to the 
 boats, which deliver'd them to Capt. Gunman's yacht the Mary. Being 
 •under saile, the castle gave them 17 gunns, which Capt. Gunman 
 answered with 11. Hence I went to Church, to beg a blessing on their 
 voyage. 
 
 2 Dec. Being returned home, I visited Lady Mordaunt at Parsons 
 Greene, my Lord her sonn being sick. This pious woman deliver'd to 
 me .£100. to bestow as I thought fit for the release of poore prisoners 
 and other charitable uses. 
 
 21. Visited her Ladyship againe, where I found the Bp. of Win- 
 Chester, whom I had long known in France ; he invited me to his house 
 at Chelsey. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 389 
 
 23 Dec. Lady Sunderland gave me ten guineas to bestow in chari- 
 ties. 
 
 1676, 20 Feb. Dr. Gunning, Bishop of Ely, preached before the 
 King from 20 St. John 21, 22, 23, chiefly against an anonymous booke 
 called ' Naked Truth,' a famous and popular treatise against the cor- 
 ruption in the Cleargie, but not sound as to its quotations, supposed to 
 have ben the Bishop of Hereford's [Dr. Herbert Croft], and was 
 answered by Dr. Turner, it endeavoring to prove an equality of order 
 of Bishop and Presbyter. 
 
 27. Dr. Pritchard, Bp. of Glocester, preached at White-hall on 5 
 Isaiah 5. very allegorically according to his manner, yet very gravely 
 and wittily. 
 
 29 February. I din'd with Mr. Povey, one of the Masters of Re- 
 quests, a nice contriver of all elegancies, and exceedingly formall. 
 Supped with Sir J. Williamson, where were of our Society, Mr. Robert 
 Boyle, Sir Christ: Wren, Sir Wm. Petty, Dr. Holden, sub-dean of his 
 Majesty's Chapell, Sir James Shaen, Dr. Whistler, and our Secretary 
 Mr. Oldenburg. 
 
 4 March. Sir Thomas Linch was returned from his government 
 of Jamaica. 
 
 16. The Countesse of Sunderland and I went by water to Parsons 
 Greene to visite my Lady Mordaunt, and to consult with her about my 
 Lord's monument. We return'd by coach. 
 
 19. Dr. Lloyd, late Curate at Deptford, but now Bishop of Llandaff, 
 preached before the King on 1 Cor. 15. 57. that tho' sin subjects us to 
 Death, yet thro' Christ we become his conquerors. 
 
 24. Dr. Brideoak ', Bp. of Chichester, preach'd ; a mean discourse 
 for a Bishop. I also heard Dr. Fleetwood, Bp. of Worcester, on 26 
 Matt. 38. of the sorrows of Christ, a deadly sorrow caused by our sinns; 
 he was no great preacher. 
 
 23. To Twickenham Park, Lord Berkeley's country seate, to examine 
 how the bailiffs and servants ordered matters. 
 
 30. Dining with my La. Sunderland, I saw a fellow swallow a knife, 
 and divers great pebble stones, which would make a plaine rattling one 
 against another. The knife was in the sheath of home. 
 
 Dr. North, sonn to my Lord North, preach'd before the King on 53 
 Isaiah 57. a very young but learned and excellent person. Note. This 
 was the first time the Duke appeared no more in Chapell, to the infinite 
 griefe and threatned mine of this poore Nation. 
 
 2 April. I had now notice that my deare friend Mrs. Godolphin was 
 returning from Paris. On the 6th she arived to my greate joy, whom 
 I most heartily welcomed. 
 
 28 April. My wife entertain'd her Majesty at Deptford, for which 
 the Queene gave me thanks in the withdrawing-roome at White-halL 
 
 t Ralph Biidcoake, Dean of Salisbury, succeeded Bp. Gunning in the See. 
 
390 MR. PRIDEAUX. BLOOMSBURY. MOTHER OF THE MAIDS. 
 
 The University of Oxford presented me with the ' Marmora Oxoni- 
 ensia Ariindelliana ; ' the Bp. of Oxford writing- to desire that I would 
 introduce Mr. Prideaux the Editor (a young man most learned in Anti- 
 quities) to the Duke of Norfollc, to present another dedicated to his 
 Grace, which I did, and we din'd with the Duke at Arundel House, 
 and supp'd at the Bp. of Rochester's with Isaac Vossius. 
 
 7 May. I spoke to the Duke of York about my Lo. Berkeley's going 
 to Nimeguen. Thence to the Queene's Council at Somerset House, 
 about Mrs. Godolphin's lease of Spalding in Lincolnshire. 
 
 II. I dined with Mr. Charleton, and went to see Mr. Mountague's 
 new palace, now the Brit. Museum, neere Bloomsbury, built by Mr. 
 Hooke of our Society after the French manner. 
 
 13 May. Return'd home and found my son come from France, 
 praised be God. 
 
 22. Trinity Monday. A chaplain of my Lord Ossorie's preach'd, 
 after which we took barge to Trinity House in London. Mr. Pepys 
 (Secy, of the Admiralty) succeeded my Lord as Master. 
 
 2 June. I went with my Lord Chamberlaine to see a garden at En- 
 field towne ; thence to Mr. Sec. Coventry's lodge in the Chace. It is 
 a very pretty place, the house commodious, the gardens handsome, and 
 our entertainment very free, there being none but my Lord and myselfe. 
 That which I most wondered at was, that in the compass of 25 miles, 
 yet within 14 of London, there is not an house, barne, church, or build- 
 ing, besides three lodges. To this Lodge are three greate ponds and 
 some few inclosures, the rest a solitarie desert, yet stor'd with not lesse 
 than 3000 deere. These are pretty retreats for gentlemen, especialy 
 for those who are studious and lovers of privacy. 
 
 We return'd in the evening by Hamsted, to see Lord Wotton's house 
 and garden, Belsize, built with vast expense by Mr. O'Neale, an Irish 
 gentleman who married Lord Wotton's mother Lady Stanhope. The 
 furniture is very particular for Indian cabinets, porcelain, and other 
 solid and noble moveables. The gallery very fine, the gardens very 
 large, but ill kept, yet woody and chargeable. The soil a cold weeping 
 clay, not answering the expence. 
 
 12 June. I went to Sir Tho. Bond's new and fine house by Peck- 
 ham ; it is on a flat, but has a fine garden and prospect thro' the mea- 
 dows to London. 
 
 2 July. Dr. Castillion, Prebend of Canterbury, preached before the 
 King on 15 John 22. at White-hall. 
 
 19. Went to the funeral of Sir William Sanderson, husband to the 
 mother of the Maids,' and author of two large but meane histories 
 of King James and King Charles the First. He was buried at 
 Westminster. 
 
 I Aug. In the afternoone, after prayers at St. James's Chapell, was 
 
 \ The Queen's Maids of Honour ; ttiere is or lately was a place with that title. (1816.) 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 39I 
 
 christned a daughter of Dr. Leakes, the Duke's Chaplaine ; God- 
 mothers were Lady Mary, daughter of the Duke of York, and the Dut- 
 chesse of Monmouth : Godfather, the Earle of Bathe. 
 
 15. Came to dine with me my Lord Halifax, Sir Thomas Meres, 
 one of the Commissioners of the Admiralty, Sir John Clayton, Mr. 
 Slingsby, Mr. Henshaw, and Mr. Bridgeman. 
 
 25. Din'd with Sir John Banks at his house in Lincoln's Inn 
 Fields, on recommending Mr. Upman to be tutor to his sonn going 
 into France. This Sir John Banks was a merchant of small beginning, 
 but had amass'd 100,000/. 
 
 26. I din'd at the Admiralty with Secretary Pepys, and supp'd at 
 the Lord Chamberlaines. Here was Capt. Baker, who had ben lately 
 on the attempt of the North West Passage. He reported prodigious 
 depth of ice, blew as a sapphire, and as transparent. The thick mists 
 were their cheife impediment and cause of their returne. 
 
 2 Sept. I paid 1700/. to the Marquiss de Sissac, which he had lent 
 to my Lord Berkeley, and which I heard the Marquiss lost at play in a 
 night or two. 
 
 The Dean of Chichester preach'd before the King on 24 Acts 16 ; and 
 Dr. Crighton preach'd the second sermon before him on 90 Psalm u. 
 of wisely numbering our daies and well employing our time. 
 
 3. Dined at Capt. Graham's, where I became acquainted with Dr. 
 Compton, brother to the Earle of Northampton, now Bishop of London, 
 and Mr. North, sonn to the Lord North, brother to the Ld. Cheife 
 Justice and Clerke of the Closet, a most hopefull young man. The 
 Bishop had once ben a souldier, had also travel'd Italy, and became a 
 most sober, grave, and excellent prelate. 
 
 6. Supped at the Lord Chamberlaine's, where also supped the 
 famous beauty and errant lady the Dutchesse of Mazarine (all the 
 world knows her storie), the Duke of Monmouth, Countesse of Sussex 
 both natural children of the King by the Dutchess of Cleaveland),' 
 and the Countesse of Derby, a virtuous lady, daughter to my best friend 
 the Earle of Ossorie. 
 
 10 Sept. Din'd with me Mr. Flamsted, the learned astrologer and 
 mathematician, whom his Majesty had establish'd in the new Observa- 
 torie in Greenewich Park furnish 'd with the choicest instruments. An 
 honest, sincere man. 
 
 12. To London, to take order about the building of an house, cff 
 rather an apartment which had all the conveniences of an house, for 
 
 ^ Mr. Evelyn forgot himself here. The Duke of Monmouth's mother was, it is well known, 
 Mrs. Lucy Walters, who was sometimes called Mrs. Barlow (mentioned before). Lady Anne 
 Fitzroy, as she is called in the books of Peerage, was married to Leonard Dacre, Earl of 
 Sussex, hy whom she left a daughter only, who succeeded on her father's death to the Barony 
 of Dacre. Mr. Evelyn probably meant to speak of either the Dule of Southampton, the Duke 
 of Grafton, or the Duke of Northumberland, all of whom Charles the Second had by tho 
 Duchess of Cleaveland. 
 
392 MY BIRTHDAY. BALL AT THE DUKE OF YORK S. 
 
 my deare friend Mr. Godolphin and lady, which I undertooke to con- 
 trive and survey, and employ workmen 'till it should be quite finished } 
 it being just over against his Majesties wood yard by the Thames side, 
 leading to Scotland yard. 
 
 19. To Lambeth, to that rare magazine of marble, to take order 
 for chimney-pieces, &c. for Mr. Godolphin's house. The owner of the 
 workes had built for himselfe a pretty dwelling-house ; this Dutchman 
 had contracted with the Genoese for all their marble. We also saw 
 the Duke of Buckingham's Glasse-worke, where they made huge vases 
 of mettal as cleare, ponderous and thick as chrystal ; also looking- 
 glasses far larger and better than any that come from Venice. 
 
 9 Oct. I went with Mrs. Godolphin and my wife to Black-wall, to 
 see some Indian curiosities ; the streetes being slippery I fell against 
 a piece of timber with such violence that I could not speake nor fetch 
 my breath for some space : being carried into an house and let bloud, 
 I was removed to the water side and so home, where after a dales rest 
 I recovered. This being one of my greatest deliverances, the Lord 
 Jesus make me ever mindfull and thankfuU. 
 
 31. Being my birth-day, and 56 yeares old, I spent the morning in 
 devotion and imploring God's protection, with solemn thanksgiving for 
 all his signal mercies to me, especialyfor that escape which concerned 
 me this moneth at Black-wall. Dined with Mrs. Godolphin, and re- 
 turned home through a prodigious and dangerous mist. 
 
 9 Nov. Finish'd the lease of Spalding for Mr. Godolphin. 
 
 16. My sonn and I dining at my Lord Chamberlaine's, he shew'd 
 us amongst others that imcomparable piece of Raphael's, being a 
 Minister of State dictating to Guicciardini, the earnestness of whose 
 face looking up in expectation of what he was next to write is so to the 
 life, and so naturall, as I esteeme it one of the choicest pieces of that 
 jdmirable artist. There was a Woman's head oi Leonardo da Vinci ; 
 1 Madona of old Palma, and two of Van-Dyke's, of which one was his 
 twne picture at length, when young, in a leaning posture ; the other 
 an Eunuch singing. Rare pieces indeede. 
 
 4 Dec. I saw the greate ball daunced by all the gallants and ladyes 
 It the Dutchesse of York's. 
 
 10 Dec. There fell so deep a snow as hinder'd us from church. 
 
 12. To London, in so great a snow as I remember not to have 
 seene the like. 
 
 17. More snow falling, I was not able to get to church. 
 
 1677. 8 Feb. I went to Roehampton with my lady Dutchesse of 
 Ormond. The garden and perspective is pretty, the prospect most 
 , agreeable. 
 
 15 May. Came the Earle of Peterborough to desire me to be a 
 Trustee for Lord Vise. Mordaunt and the Countesse, for the sale of 
 certaine lands set out by Act of Parliament to pay debts. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 393 
 
 12. I went to London to give the Lo. Ambr. Berkeley (now re- 
 tum'd from the Treaty at Nimeguen) an account of the greate trust 
 repos'd in me during his absence, I having receiv'd and remitted to 
 him no lesse than 20,000/. to my no small trouble and losse of time, 
 that during his absence and when the Lord Treasurer was no greate 
 friend [of his] I yet procur'd him greate sums, very often soliciting his 
 Majesty in his behalfe ; looking after the rest of his estate and con- 
 cernes intirely, without once accepting any kind of acknowledgment, 
 purely upon the request of my dear friend Mr. Godolphin. I retum'd 
 with abundance of thanks and professions from my Lord Berkeley 
 and my Lady. 
 
 29. This business being now at an end and myself deliver'd from 
 that intolerable servitude and correspondence, I had leisure to be some- 
 what more at home and to myselfe. 
 
 3 July. I sealed the deedes of sale of the Mannor of Blechinglee 
 to Sir Robt. Clayton, for payment of Lo. Peterborough's debts, accord- 
 ing to the trust of the Act of Parliament. 
 
 16. I went to Wotton. — 22. Mr. Evans, curate of Abinger, preach'd 
 an excellent sermon on 5 Matthew 12. In the afternoone Mr. Higham 
 at Wotton catechised. 
 
 26. I din'd at Mr. Duncomb's at Sheere, whose house stands in- 
 viron'd with very sweete and quick streams. 
 
 29. Mr. Bohun, my sonn's late tutor, preached at Abinger on 
 4 Phil. 8. very elegantly and practically. 
 
 5 Aug. I went to visite my Lord Brounker, now taking the waters at 
 Dulwich. 
 
 9. Din'd at the Earl of Peterborow's the day after the marriage of 
 my Lord of Arundel to Lady Mary Mordaunt daughter to the Earl of 
 Peterborough. 
 
 28. To visite my Lord Chamberlaine in Suffolk ; he sent his coach 
 and 6 to meete and bring me from St. Edmonds Bury to Euston. 
 
 29. We hunted in the park and kill'd a very fat buck. — 31. I went 
 a hawking. 
 
 7. Sept. There din'd this day at my Lord's one Sir John Gaudy, a 
 very nandsome person, but quite dumb, yet very intelligent by signes, 
 and a very fine painter ; he was so civil and well bred as it was not 
 possible to discerne any imperfection by him. His lady and children 
 were also there, and he was at church in the morning with us. 
 
 4. I went to visite my Lord Crofts, now dying at St. Edmonds Bury, 
 and tooke this opportunity to see this ancient Towne, and the remaines 
 of that famous Monasterie and Abby. There is little standing intire 
 save the gate-house ; it has ben a vast and magnificent Gotic structure, 
 and of greate extent. The gates are wood, but quite plated over with 
 iron. There are also two stately churches, one especialy. 
 
 5. I went to Thetford, the Burrough Towne, where stand the mines 
 
394 thetford; ipswich; cardinal wolsey. 
 
 of a religious house ; there is a round mountaine artificialy raised, eithei 
 for some castle or monument, which makes a pretty landscape. As we 
 went and return'd, a tumbler shew'd his extraordinary addresse in the 
 Warren. I also saw the Decoy, much pleas'd with the stratagem. 
 
 9. A stranger preach'd at Euston church, and fell into a handsome 
 panegyric on my Lord's new building the church, which indeede tor its 
 elegance and cherefullness is one of the prettiest country churches in 
 England. My Lord told me his heart smote him that after he haa 
 bestow'd so much on his magnificent palace there, he should see God's 
 House in the mine it lay in. He has also rebuilt the parsonage-house, 
 all of stone, very neate and ample. ' 
 
 10. To divert me, my Lord would needs carry me to see Ipswich, 
 when we din'd with one Mr. Mann by the way, who was Recorder of 
 the towne. There were in our company my Lord Huntingtoure sonn 
 to the Dutchesse of Lauderdale, Sir Ed. Bacon a learned gentleman of 
 the family of the greate Chancellor Verulam, and Sir John Felton, with 
 some other Knights and Gentlemen. After dinner came the Bailiff and 
 Magistrates in their formalities with their maces to compliment my 
 Lord and invite him to the Towne-house, where they presented us a 
 collation of dried sweet meates and wine, the bells ringing, &c. Then 
 we went to see the towne, and first, the Lord Viscount Hereford's house, 
 which stands in a park neere the towne, like that at Bruxelles in Flan- 
 ders ; the house not greate yet pretty, especialy the hall. The stewes 
 for fish succeed one another and feed one the other, all paved at bot- 
 tome. There is a good picture of the Bl. Virgin in one of the parlours; 
 seeming to be of Holbein or some good master. Then we saw the 
 Haven, 7 miles from Harwich. The tide runs out every day, but the 
 bedding being soft mudd it is safe for shipping and a station. The 
 trade of Ipswich is for the most part Newcastle coales, with which they 
 supply London, but it was formerly a cloathing towne. There is not 
 any beggar asks alms in the whole place, a thing very extraordinary, 
 so order'd by the prudence of the Magistrates. It has in it 14 or 15 
 beautiful churches : in a word 'tis for building, cleanesse, and good 
 order, one of the best townes in England. Cardinal Wolsey was a 
 butcher's sonn of this towne, but there is little of that magnificent Pre- 
 late's foundation here, besides a schole and I think a library, which I 
 did not see. His intentions were to build some greate thing. We re- 
 turn'd late to Euston, having travell'd above 50 miles this day. 
 
 Since first I was at this place, I found things exceedingly improv'd. 
 It is seated in a bottome between two gracefuU swellings, the maine 
 building being now in the figure of a Greek II with foure pavilions, two 
 at each corner, and a breake in the front, rail'd and balustred at the 
 top, where 1 caus'd huge jarrs to be plac'd full of earth to keepe them 
 steady upon their pedestalls between the statues, which make as good 
 a shew as if they were of stone, and tho' the building be of brick, and but 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 395 
 
 two stories besides cellars, and garretts cover'd with blue slate, yet there 
 is roome enough for a full court, the offices and out-houses being so 
 ample and well-dispos'd. The King's apartment is painted afresca, and 
 magnificently furnish'd. There are many excellent pictures of the greate 
 masters. The gallery is a pleasant, noble roome : in the breake, or 
 middle, is a billiard-table, but the wainscot being of firr, and painted, 
 does not please me so well as Spanish oake without paint. The 
 chapel is pretty, the porch descending to the gardens. The orange 
 garden is very fine, and leads into the green-house, at the end of which 
 is a hall to eate in, and the conservatory some hundred feete long, 
 adorn'd with mapps, as the other side is with the heads of Caesars ill 
 cut in alabaster : over head are several apartments for my Lord, Lady, 
 and Dutchesse,' with kitchens and other offices below in a lesser form, 
 with lodgings for servants, all distinct, for them to retire to when they 
 please and would be in private and have no communication with the 
 palace, which he tells me he will wholly resign to his sonn-in-law and 
 daughter, that charming young creature. The canall running under 
 my lady's dressing-room chamber window is full of carps and foule 
 which come and are fed there. The cascade at the end of the canall 
 turnes a corne-mill, which provides the family, and raises water for the 
 fountaines and offices. To passe this canal into the opposite meadows, 
 Sir Sam. Moreland has invented a screw-bridge, which being tum'd 
 with a key lands you 50 foote distant at the entrance of an ascending 
 walke of trees, a mile in length, as tis also on the front into the park, 
 of 4 rows of ash-trees, and reaches to the park-pale, which is 9 miles 
 in compass, and the best for riding and meeting the game that I ever 
 saw. There were now of red and fallow deere almost a thousand, with 
 good covert, but the soile barren and flying sand, in which nothing will 
 grow kindly. The tufts of firr and much of the other wood were planted 
 by my direction some yeares before. This seate is admirably plac'd for 
 field sports, hawking, hunting, or racing. The mutton is small, but 
 sweete. The stables hold 30 horses and 4 coaches. The out-offices 
 make two large quadrangles, so as servants never liv'd with more ease 
 and convenience, never master more civil. Strangers are attended and 
 accommodated as at their home, in pretty apartments furnish'd with all 
 manner of conveniences and privacy. There is a library full of ex- 
 cellent books. There are bathing-roomes, elaboratorie, dispensatorie, 
 A decoy, and places to keepe and fat fowl in. He had now in his new 
 church (neere the garden) built a dormitory or vault with several reposi- 
 tories in which to burie his family. In the expence of this pious struc- 
 ture, the church is most laudable, most of the Houses of God in this 
 country resembling rather stables and thatch'd cottages than temples in 
 which to serve the Most High. He has built a lodge in the park for 
 the keeper, which is a neate dwelling and might become any gentleman, 
 1 His daughter, wife of the Duke of Grafton, 
 
396 EUSTON; VICE AND TALENTS OF ITS NOBLE OWNER. 
 
 The same has he don for the parson, httle deserving it, for murmuring 
 that my Lord put him some time out of his wretched hovel, whilst it 
 was building. He has also erected a faire inn at some distance from his 
 palace, with a bridge of stone over a river neere it, and repaired all the 
 tenants houses, so as there is nothing but neatenesse and accommoda- 
 tions about his estate, which I yet think is not above ;£.i50O a yeare. 
 I believe he had now in his family loo domestic servants. His lady 
 (being one of the Bredrodes daughters, grandchild to a natural sonn of 
 Henry Frederick Prince of Orange) is a good-natur'd and obliging 
 woman. They love fine things and to live easily, pompously, and hos- 
 pitably, but with so vast expence as plunges my Lord into debt exceed- 
 ingly. My Lord himselfe is given to no expensive vice but building, 
 and to have all things rich, polite, and princely. He never plays, but 
 reades much, having the Latin, French, and Spanish tongues in per- 
 fection. He has travell'd much, and is the best bred and courtly per- 
 son his Majesty has about him, so as the publiq Ministers more frequent 
 him than any of the rest of the Nobility. Whilst he was Secretary of 
 State and Prime Minister he had gotten vastly, but spent it as hastily, 
 even before he had establish'd a fund to maintaine his greatnesse ; and 
 now beginning to decline in favour (the Duke being no great friend of 
 his) he knows not how to retrench. He was sonn of a Doctor of Laws 
 whom I have seene, and being sent from Westminster Schole to Oxford 
 with intention to be a Divine, and parson of Harlington,' a village neere 
 Brainford, when Master of Arts, the Rebellion falling out, he follow'd 
 the King's Army, and receiving an honourable wound in the face^ grew 
 into favour, and was advanc'd from a meane fortune, at his Majestys 
 restauration, to be an Earle and Knight of the Garter, Lord Chamber- 
 laine of the Household, and first favourite for a long time, during which 
 the King married his natural sonn, the Duke of Grafton, to his onely 
 daughter and heiress, as before mentioned, worthy for her beauty and 
 virtue of the greatest Prince in Christendom. My Lord is, besides this, 
 a prudent and understanding person in businesse and speakes well. 
 Unfortunate yet in those he has advanc'd, most of them proving un- 
 gratefuU. The many obligations and civilities I have receiv'd from this 
 noble gentleman extracts from me this character, and I am sorry he is 
 in no better circumstances. 
 
 Having now pass'd neere three weeks at Euston to my greate satis- 
 faction, with much difficulty he suffer'd me to looke homeward, being 
 very earnest with me to stay longer, and to engage me, would himselfe 
 have carried and accompanied me to Lynn Regis, a towne of important 
 traffiq, about 20 miles beyond, which I had never seene, as also the 
 Travelling Sands about 10 miles wide of Euston, that have so damaged 
 
 1 See in Lord Clarendon's Continuation of his Life, &c. a curious circumstance relating to 
 Sir Henry Bennett's taking his title, when first created a Baron, from this place. 
 
 ^ A deep cut across his nose, he was always obliged to wear a black patch upon it, and is 
 10 represented ia his portraits. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 397 
 
 tlie country, rouling from place to place, and like the Sands in the 
 Deserts of Lybia, quite overwhelm'd some gentlemen's whole estates, 
 as the relation extant in print and brought to the Royal Society 
 describes at large. 
 
 13 Sept. My Lord's coach convey 'd me to Bury, and thence baiting 
 at Newmarket, stepping in at Audley End to see that house againe, I 
 slept at Bishops Stortford, and the next day home. I was accompanied 
 in my journey by Major Fairfax, of a younger house of the Lord Fair- 
 fax, a souldier, a traveller, an excellent musitian, a good-natur'd well- 
 bred gentleman. 
 
 18. I preferred Mr. Philips (nephew of Milton) to the service of my 
 Lord Chamberlaine, who wanted a scholar to reade to & entertaine him 
 sometimes. 
 
 12 Oct. With Sir Robert Clayton to Marden, an estate he had 
 bought lately of my kinsman Sir John Evelyn of Godstone in Surrey, 
 which from a despicable farme house Sir Robert had erected into a 
 seate with extraordinary expence. 'Tis in such a solitude among hills, 
 as being not above 16 miles from London, seems almost incredible, the 
 ways up to it so winding and intricate. The gardens are large, and 
 well waU'd, and the husbandry part made very convenient and perfectly 
 understood. The barnes, the stacks of corne, the stalls for cattle, 
 pigeon-house, &c. of most laudible example. Innumerable are the 
 plantations of trees, especialy wallnuts. The orangerie and gardens 
 are very curious. In the house are large and noble roomes. He and 
 his lady (who is very curious in distillery) entertain'd me three or foure 
 days very freely. I earnestly suggested to him the repairing of an old 
 desolate dilapidated Church, standing on the hill above the house, ' 
 which I left him in good disposition to do, and endow it better ; there 
 not being above foure or five houses in the parish besides that of this 
 prodigious rich Scrivener 2. This place is exceeding sharp in the winter 
 by reason of the serpenting of the hills ; and it wants running water ; 
 but the solitude much pleas'd me. All the ground is so full of wild 
 
 * Woldingham. The Church consists of one room ahout 30 feet long and 21 wide, without 
 any tower, spire, or bell. It is considered as a Donative, not subject to the Bishop, service 
 performed once a month. No Churchwarden ; two farm-houses, four cottages. By the Popu- 
 lation Return in iSii, the nnmber of inhabitants was 58. That disposition which was thought 
 to have appeared subsided ; the Church remains as it then was. 
 
 2 In London there was formerly a Company called Scriveners, now extinct. The last mem- 
 ber of it, named Ellis, died at the age of more than go. Dr. Johnson speaks well of him in 
 the present reign. The business comprehended that of a Banker, and what is now called a 
 Conveyancer ; they had money deposited with them for the purpose of making purchases, or 
 lending on mortgage, they preparing the Conveyances. In the time of K. Charles I. during 
 the troubles and the interregjium, a gentleman of the name of Abbot in the City had a very 
 great share of this business. Sir Robert Clayton and a Mr. Morris were his clerks at the 
 same time, and jointly succeeded to his business, in which they had acquired a great estate. 
 Mr. Morris died first, and having no children, left his property to his frie,ld Sir Robert. The 
 Editor lately saw a deed attested by Mr. Abbot as Scrivener, and by Mr. Morris and Mr. 
 Clayton as his servants. 
 
2g8 THE PRINCE OF ORANGE ; BALL AT COURT ; THE PRINCESS MARY, 
 
 thyme, marjoram, and other sweete plants, that it cannot be overstock'd 
 with bees ; I thinlc he had neere 40 hives of that industrious insect. 
 
 14. I went to Church at Godstone, and to see old Sir John Evelyn's 
 dormitory, joining to the church, pav'd with marble, where he and his 
 lady lie on a very stately monument at length ; he in armour, of white 
 marble.' The inscription is onely an account of his particular branch 
 of the family on black marble. 
 
 15. Returned to London ; in the evening, I saw the Prince cA 
 Orange, and supped with Lord Ossory. 
 
 23. Saw againe the Prince of Orange : his marriage with the Lady 
 Mary, eldest daughter to the Duke of York, by Mrs. Hyde, the late 
 Dutchesse, was now declared. 
 
 II Nov. I was all this week composing matters betweene old Mrs. 
 Howard and Sir Gabriel Sylvius, upon his long and earnest addresses 
 to Mrs. Ann her second daughter, mayd of honor to the Queene. My 
 friend Mrs. Godolphin (who exceedingly lov'd the young lady) was 
 most industrious in it, out of pitty to the languishing knight ; so as 
 tho' there were greate differences in their yeares, it was at last effected, 
 and they were married the 13th in Hen. yth's Chapell by the Bishop ot 
 Rochester 2, there being besides my wife and Mrs. Graham, her sister, 
 Mrs. Godolphin, and very few more. We din'd at the old lady's, and 
 supp'd at Mr. Graham's at St. James's. 
 
 1 5. The Queene's birth-day, a greate Ball at Court, where the Prince 
 of Orange and his new Princesse daunced. 
 
 19. They went away, and I saw embarqu'd my Lady Sylvius, who 
 went into Holland with her husband, rnade Hoffmaester to the P''ilice, 
 a considerable employment. We parted with greate sorrow, for the 
 greate respect and honour I bore her, a most pious and virtuous lady. 
 
 27. Din'd at the Lord Treasurer's with Prince Rupert, Viscount 
 Falkenberg, Earle of Bathe, Lord O'Brien, Sir John Lowther, Sir 
 Christ. Wren, Dr. Grew, and other learned men. 
 
 30. Sir Joseph Williamson, Principal Secretary of State, was chosen 
 President of the Royal Society after my Lord Viscount Brounker had 
 possess'd the chaire now sixteen yeares successively, and thereforenow 
 thought fit to change, that prescription might not prejudice. 
 
 4 Dec. Being the first day of his taking the chaire, he gave us a 
 magnificent supper. 
 
 20. Carried to my Lord Treasurer an account of the Earl of Bris- 
 tol's Librarie at Wimbleton, which my Lord thought of purchasing, 
 till I acquainted him that it was a very broken collection, consisting 
 much in books of judicial astrologie, romances, and trifles. 
 
 25. I gave my sonn an office, with instructions how to govern his 
 youth ; I pray God give him the grace to make a right use of it. 
 
 ' It is a very fine monument, in perfect preservation. 
 
 S Dr. John Dolben, alao DcaA oJT Westminster, translated afterwards to York. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 399 
 
 1678. 23 Jan. Din'd with the Duke of Norfolk, being the first 
 time I had scene him since the death of his elder brother, who died at 
 Padoa in Italy, where he had resided above 30 yeares. The Duke had 
 now newly declar'd his mariage to his concubine, whom he promis'd mp 
 he never would marry.' I went with him to see the Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, thence to my Lord Sunderland, now Secretary of State, to 
 shew him that rare piece of Vosterman's (son of old Vosterman) which 
 was a view or landscape of my Lord's palace, &c. at Althorpin North- 
 amptonshire. 
 
 8 Feb. Supping at my Lord Chamberlaine's, I had a long discourse 
 with the Conte de Castel Mellor, lately Prime Minister in Portugal, who 
 taking part with his master King Alphonso was banish'd by his brother 
 Don Pedro, now Regent, but had behaved himselfe so uncorruptly in 
 all his ministrie, that tho' he was acquitted and his estate restored, yet 
 would they not suffer him to returne. He is a very intelligent and 
 worthy gentleman. 
 
 1 8. My Lord Treasurer sent for me to accompany him to Wimble- 
 don, which he had lately purchased of the Earle of Bristol : so breaking 
 fast with him privately in his chamber, 1 accompanied him with two 
 of his daughters, my Lord Conway and Sir Bernard Gascoyne, and 
 having surveyed his gardens and alterations, returned late at night. 
 
 22. Dr. Pierce preach'd at White-hall on 2 Thessal. 3. 6. against 
 our late Schismatics, in a rational discourse, but a little over-sharp and 
 not at all proper for the auditory there. 
 
 22 Mar. Dr. South preached coram Rege an incomparable discourse 
 on this text, 'A wounded spirit who can beare ! ' Note: Now was 
 our communion table plac'd altar-wise ; the church steeple, clock, and 
 other reparations finish'd. 
 
 16 April. I shew'd Dom. Emanuel de Lyra (Portugal Ambassador) 
 and the Count de Castel Mellor the Repository of the R. Society and 
 the CoUedge of Physitians. 
 
 18. I went to see New Bedlam Hospital, magnificently built,' and 
 most sweetely placed in More-fields, since the dreadful fire in London. 
 
 28 June. 1 went to Windsor with my Lord Chamberlaine (the 
 Castle now repairing with exceeding cost) to see the rare worke of 
 Verrio, an incomparable carving of Gibbons. 
 
 29. Retum'd with my Lord by Hounslow Heath, where we saw the 
 new-rais'd army encamp'd, design'd against France, in pretence at 
 
 ? It appears by the Books of Peerage that his Grace married to his second wife Mrs. Jane 
 Bickerton, daughter of a Scotch gentleman, Robert Bickerton. Esq. who was Gentleman of 
 the Wine Cellar to King Charles II. There are engraved portraits both of this Duke and of 
 his Duchess. 
 
 2 Taken down, being greatly decayed, in 1814, and a new one erected on the Surrey side of 
 the Thames, in the road leading from St. George's Fields to Lambeth. On pulling it down, 
 the foundations were found to be very bad, as it had been built on part of the Towne-ditch and 
 on a soil very un6t for the erection of so large a building. Patients were removed to the nei^ 
 building in August i8l5. 
 
400 THE BRITISH GRENADIERS. LIBRARY OF ELIAS ASHMOLE. 
 
 least, but which gave umbrage to the Pariiament. His Majesty and 
 a world of company were in the field, and the whole armie in battalia, a 
 very glorious sight. Now were brought into service a new sort of Sol- 
 diers call'd Granadiers, who were dextrous in flinging hand granados, 
 every one having a pouch full ; they had furr'd caps with coped 
 crownes like Janizaries, which made them looke very fierce, and some 
 had long hoods hanging down behind, as we picture fools. Their 
 clothing being likewise pybald yellow and red. 
 
 8 July. Came to dine with me my Lord Longford, Treasurer of Ire- 
 land, nephew to that learned gentleman my Lord Aungier, with whom 
 I was long since acquainted : also the Lady Siddulph and other com- 
 pany. 
 
 19. The Earle of Ossory came to take his leave of me, going into 
 Holland to command the English forces. 
 
 20. I went to the Tower to try a mettal at the Assay-masters, which 
 onely prov'd Sulphur ; then saw Monsieur Rotiere, that excellent 
 graver belonging to the Mint, who emulates even the ancients, in both 
 mettal and stone ; he was now moulding an horse for the King's statue, 
 to be cast in silver, of a yard high. I din'd with Mr. Slingsby, Master 
 of the Mint. 
 
 23. Went to see Mr. Elias Ashmole's library and curiosities at 
 Lambeth. He has divers MSS. but most of them astrological, to 
 which study he is addicted, the' I believe not learned, but very indus- 
 trious, as his History of the Order of the Garter proves. He shew'd 
 me a toade included in amber. The prospect from a turret is very 
 fine, it being so neere London, and yet not discovering any house 
 about the country. The famous John Tradescant bequeathed his 
 Repository to this gentleman, who has given them to the University of 
 Oxford, and erected a lecture on them, over the Laboratorie, in imita- 
 tion of the R. Society.' 
 
 Mr. Godolphin was made Master of the Robes to the King. 
 
 25. There was sent me £-']o, from whom I knew not, to be by me 
 distributed among poore people ; I afterwards found it was from that 
 deere friend (Mrs. Godolphin) who had frequently given me large sums 
 to bestow on charities. 
 
 16 Aug. I went to Lady Mordaunt, who put ^.100 into my hands 
 to dispose of for pious uses, relief of prisoners, poore, &c. Many a 
 sum had she sent me on similar occasions ; a blessed creature she was, 
 and one that loved and feared God exemplarily. 
 
 23. Upon Sir Robert Reading's importunity I went to visite the 
 
 1 The donation took place in 1677, and a suitable building was erected by Sir Christ. Wren, 
 bearing the name of the ' Ashmolean Museum.' This was the first public institution for the 
 reception of rarities in Art or Nature established in England; andin the infancy of the study 
 of Natural History in this country, possessed what was then considered as a valuable and su- 
 perior collection. There are good portraits ofAshmole, and of the Tradescsnt family by 
 Doiibon, in the Museum, from which engravings have been very inaccurately taken. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 40« 
 
 Duke of Norfolk at his new palace at Weybridge,' where he has laid 
 out in building neere ;^.io,ooo, on a copyhold, and in a miserable, 
 barren, sandy place by the street side ; never in my life had I scene 
 such expense to so small purpose. The roomes are wainscotted, and 
 some of them parquetted with cedar, yew, cypresse, &c. There are 
 some good pictures, especialy that incomparable painting of Holbein's, 
 where the Duke of Norfolk, Charles Brandon, and Henry VIII. are 
 dauncing with the three ladies, with most amourous countenances and 
 sprightly motion exquisitely expressed. 'Tis a thousand pities (as I 
 told my Lord of Arundel his son) that that jewel should be given away. 
 
 24. I went to see my Lord of St. Alban's house at Byflete, an old 
 large building. Thence to the paper mills, where I found them making 
 a coarse white paper. They cull the raggs, which are linnen, for 
 white paper, woollen for brown ; then they stamp them in troughs to a 
 papp with pestles or hammers like the powder-mills, then put it into a 
 vessell of water, in which they dip a frame closely wyred with wyre as 
 small as a haire and as close as a weaver's reede ; on this they take up 
 the papp, the superfluous water draining thro' the wyre ; this they dex- 
 trously turning, shake out like a pancake on a smooth board between 
 2 pieces of flannell, then presse it between a greate presse, the flannell 
 sucking out the moisture ; then taking it out, they ply and dry it on 
 strings, as they dry linnen in the laundry ; then dip it in alum-water, 
 lastly polish and make it up in quires. They put some gum in the 
 water in which they macerate the raggs. The mark we find on the 
 sheets is formed in the wyre. 
 
 25. After evening prayer visited Mr. Sheldon (nephew to the late 
 Abp. of Canterbury) and his pretty melancholy garden ; I tooke notice 
 of the largest arbor thuyris I had ever scene. The place is finely 
 water'd, and there are many curiosities of India, shewn in the house. 
 
 There was at Weybridge the Dutchesse of Norfolk, Lord Tho. How- 
 ard (a worthy and virtuous gentleman, with whom my sonn was some 
 lime bred up in Arundel House) who was newly come from Rome, 
 where he had been some time ; also one of the Duke's daughters by 
 his first lady. My Lord leading me about the house made no scruple 
 of shewing me all the hiding-places for the Popish priests, and where 
 they said masse, for he was no bigotted Papist. He told me he never 
 trusted them with any seacret, and us'd Protestants only in aU busi- 
 nesses of importance. 
 
 I went this evening with my Lord Duke to Windsor, where was a 
 magnificent Court, it being the first time of his Majesty removing thi- 
 ther since it was repaired. 
 
 ' This house was the property of Mrs. Bickerton, whom the Duke married. After his death 
 she married Mr. Maxwell, and they, together with Lord George Howard (her eldest son by the 
 Duke) sold it to the Countess of Dorchester (mistress to James IL). Her daughter married 
 David Colyer Earl of Portmore, whose descendant is the present owner, but the house is un- 
 inhabited, and in a most ruinous state (1816). 
 
 26 
 
402 SHEENE ; SIR WILL. TEMPLE ; THE ARUNDELIAN LIBRARY. 
 
 27 Aug. I tooke leave of the Duke, and din'd at Mr. Hen. Brounc- 
 ker's, at the Abby of .Sheene, formerly a monastery of Carthusian^ 
 there yet remaining one of their solitary cells with a crosse. Within 
 this ample inclosure are several pretty villas and fine gardens of the 
 most excellent fruites, especialy Sir William Temple's (lately Ambas- 
 sador into Holland), and the Lord Lisle's, sonn to the Earle of LeiceS" 
 ter, who has divers rare pictures, and above all, that of Sir Brian 
 Tuke's by Holbein. 
 
 After dinner I walk'd to Ham, to see the house and garden of ths 
 Duke of Lauderdale, which is indeede inferior to few of the best villas 
 in Italy itselfe ; the house furnish'd like a greate Prince's ; the par- 
 terres, flower gardens, orangeries, groves, avenues, courts, statues, per- 
 spectives, fountaines, aviaries, and all this at the banks of the sweetest 
 river in the world, must needes be admirable. 
 
 Hence I went to my worthy friend Sir Henry Capel [at Kew] brother 
 to the Earle of Essex : it is an old timber house, but his garden has 
 the choicest fruit of any plantation in England, as he is the most 
 industrious and understanding in it. 
 
 29. I was call'd to London to wait upon the D. of Norfolk, who 
 having at my sole request bestow'd the Arundelian Library on the 
 Royal Society, sent to me to take charge of the bookes and remove 
 them, onely stipulating that I would suffer the Heraulds cheif officer. 
 Sir William Dugdale, to have such of them as concern'd Herauldry 
 and the Marshall's office, bookes of Armorie and Genealogies, the 
 Duke being Earl Marshall of England. I procur'd for our Society, 
 besides printed bookes, neere 100 MSS., some in Greeke of greate con- 
 cernment. The printed bookes being of the oldest impressions are not 
 the lesse valuable ; I esteem them almost equal to MSS. Amongst 
 them are most of the Fathers printed at Basil before the Jesuits abus'd 
 them with their expurgatory Indexes ; there is a noble MS. of Vitru- 
 vius. Many of these bookes had ben presented by Popes, Cardinals, 
 and greate persons, to the Earls of Arundel and Dukes of Norfolk ; 
 and the late magpiificent Earle of Arundel bought a noble library in 
 Germanie, which is in this collection. I should not, for the honour I 
 beare the family, have persuaded the Duke to part with these, had I not 
 seene how negligent he was of them, suffering the priests and every 
 body to carry away and dispose of what they pleas'd, so that abun- 
 dance of rare things are irrecoverably gone. 
 
 Having taken order here, I went to the Royal Society to give them 
 an account of what I had procur'd, that they might call a Council and 
 appoint a day to waite on the Duke to thank him for this munificent gift. 
 
 3 Sept. I went to London to dine with Mrs. Godolphin [formerly 
 Mrs. Blagg, who had ben maid of honour to the Queene], and found 
 her in labour ; she was brought to bed of a sonn, who was baptiz'd in 
 the chamber, by the name of Francis, the susceptors being Sir William 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 403 
 
 Godolphin (head of the family), Mr. John Hervey, Treassurer to the 
 Queene, and Mrs. Boscawen, sister to Sir William and the father. 
 
 8. Whilst I was at church came a letter from Mr. Godolphin that 
 my deare friend his lady was exceedingly ill, and desiring my prayers 
 and assistance. My wife and I tooke boate immediately and went to 
 White-hall, where, to my inexpressible sorrow, I found she had ben 
 attacq'd with the new fever, then reigning this excessive hot autumn, 
 and which was so violent that it was not thought she could last 
 many hours. 
 
 9. She died in the 26th yeare of her age, to the inexpressible afflic- 
 tion of her deare husband and all her relations, but of none in the world 
 more than of myselfe, who lost the most excellent and inestimable 
 friend that ever liv'd. Never was a more virtuous and inviolable friend- 
 ship ; never a more religious, discreet and admirable creature, beloved 
 of all, admired of all, for all possible perfections of her sex. She is 
 gon to receive the reward of her signal charity, and all other her Chris- 
 tian graces, too blessed a creature to converse with mortals, fitted as 
 she was by a most holy life to be received into the mansions above- 
 She was for witt, beauty, good-nature, fidelity, discretion, and all accom- 
 plishments, the most incomparable person. How shall I ever repay 
 the obligations to her for the infinite good offices she did my soule by so 
 oft ingaging me to make religion the termes and tie of the friendship 
 there was between us ! She was the best wife, the best mistress, the 
 best friend that ever husband had. But it is not here that I pretend to 
 give her character, having desigrCd to consecrate an account of her 
 m>orthy life to posterity. 
 
 Her husband, struck with unspeakable affliction, fell down as dead. 
 The King himselfe and all the Court expressed their sorrow. To the 
 poore and miserable her losse was irreparable, for there was no degree 
 but had some obligation to her memorie. So carefuU and provident 
 was she to be prepared for all possible accidents, that (as if she foresaw 
 her end) she received the heavenly viaticum but the Sunday before, 
 after a most solemn recollection. She put all her domestic concerns 
 into the exactest order, and left a letter directed to her husband, to be 
 opened in case she died in child-bed, in which with the most pathetic 
 and endearing expressions of a most loyal and virtuous wife, she begs 
 his kindnesse to her memorie might be continu'd by his care and esteeme 
 of those she left behind, even to her domestic servants, to the meanest 
 of which she left considerable legacies, as well as to the poore. It was 
 now seven yeares since she was maid of honor to the Queene, that she 
 regarded me as a father, a brother, and what is more, a friend. We 
 often prayed, visited the sick and miserable, received, read, discoursed, 
 and communicated in holy offices together. She was most deare to my 
 wife and affectionate to my children. But she is gon ! This onely is 
 my comfort that she is happy in Christ and I shall shortly behold her 
 
404 DEATH OF MRS. GODOLPHIN ; HER FUNERAL ; HER PAPERS. 
 
 againe ! ' She desir'd to be buried in the dormitorie of his family, 
 neere 300 miles from all her other friends. So afflicted was her hus- 
 band at this severe losse, that the intire care of her funerall was com- 
 mitted to me. Having closed the eyes and dropped a teare upon the 
 cheeke of my deare departed friend, lovely even in death, I caused her 
 corps to be embalmed and wrapped in lead, with a plate of brasse 
 soldered thereon, with an inscription, and other circumstances due to 
 her worth, with as much diligence and care as my greived heart would 
 permit me ; I then retired home for two dales, which were spent in 
 solitude and sad reflections. 
 
 17. She was accordingly carried to Godolphin in Cornwall, in a 
 hearse with six horses, attended by two coaches of as many, with 
 about 30 of her relations and servants. There accompanied the hearse 
 her husband's brother Sir William, two more of his brothers, and three 
 sisters ; her husband was so overcome with grief, that he was wholly 
 unfit to travel so long a journey till he was more composed. I went 
 as far as Hounslow with a sad heart, but was obliged to return upon 
 some indispensible affaires. The corpse was ordered to be taken out 
 cf the hearse every night, and decently placed in the house, with tapers 
 about it, and her servants attending, to Cornwall ; and then was honor- 
 ably interr'd in the parish church of Godolphin. This funeral cost not 
 much less than ;£ 1,000. 
 
 With Mr. Godolphin I looked over and sorted his lady's papers, most 
 of which consisted of Prayers, Meditations, Sermon-notes, Discourses, 
 and Collections on severall religious subjects, and many of her owne 
 happy composing, and so pertinently digested, as if she had ben all her 
 life a student in divinity. We found a diary of her solemn resolutions, 
 all tending to practical virtue, with letters from select friends, all put 
 into exact method. It astonish'd us to see what she had read and 
 written, her youth considered. 
 
 I Oct. The Parliament anttthe whole Nation were alarm'd about a 
 conspiracy of some eminent Papists for the destruction of the King and 
 introduction of Popery, discover'd by one Gates and Dr. Tongue,' 
 
 ' In the subsequent part of these memoirs it will appear that Mr. Godolphin (afterwards 
 Lord Godolphin) continued the steady friend of Mr. Evelyn, whose grandson married into 
 the family. The infant now mentioned as bom, carried on the friendship to the family through 
 a long life. 
 
 ^ Ezrael Tong, bred in University College, Oxford, being puritanically inclined, quitted the 
 University, but in 1648 returned, and was made a Fellow. He had the living of Pluckley in 
 KeBt, but quitted it, being vexed by his parishioners and Quakers. In 1657 he was made Fel- 
 low of the new erected College at Durham, and that being dissolved in 1660, he taught school 
 at Islington, He then went with Col. Edward Harley to Dunkirk, but that being given up, 
 he took a small living in Herefordshire (Lentwardine) : but soon quitted it for St. Mary Stayn- 
 ing in London, which, after the fire in 1666, was united to St. Michael, Wood Street, and h« 
 held them to his death, in 1680. He was a great opponent of the Papists. Wood mentions 
 several publications of his, amongst which are, 'The Jesuits unmasked,' 1678: 'Jesuitical 
 Aphorisms,' 1658 : 'The Jesuits' Morals,' 1680 (1670) ; the two last translated from the French 
 Wood s Athca. OxoD. vol. II. p. 302. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 405 
 
 WiMch last I knew, being the translator of the ' Jesuite^ Morals; ' 
 I went to see and converse with him at White-hall, with Mr. Dates, 
 one that was lately an apostate to the Church of Rome, and now 
 return'd againe with this discovery. He seem'd to be a bold man, and 
 in my thoughts furiously indiscreete ; but every body believ'd what he 
 said ; and it quite chang'd the genius and motions of the Parliament, 
 growing now corrupt and interested with long sitting and court prac- 
 tices : but with all this Poperie would not go downe. This discoverie 
 tum'd them all as one man against it, and nothing was don but to find 
 out the depth of this. Gates was encourag'd, and every thing he 
 affirm'd taken for gospel ; — the truth is, the Roman Catholics were ex- 
 ceeding bold and busy every where, since the Duke forbore to go any 
 longer to the Chapell. 
 
 16 Oct. Mr. Godolphin requested me to continue the trust his wife 
 had reposed in me in behalfe of his little sonn, conjuring me to transfer 
 the friendship I had for his deare wife, on him and his. 
 
 21 Oct. The murder of Sir Edmonbury Godfrey, found strangl'd 
 about this time, as was manifest by the Papists, he being a Justice of 
 the Peace, and one who knew much of their practices, as conversant 
 with Colman (a servant of the .... now accus'd), put the whole 
 nation into a new ferment against them. 
 
 31. Being my 58th of my age, required my humble addresses to 
 Almighty God, and that he would take off his heavy hand, still on my 
 family, and restore comforts to us after the losse of my excellent friend. 
 
 5 Nov. Dr. Tillotson preach'd before the Commons at St. Mar- 
 garet's. He said the Papists were now ariv'd at that impudence as to 
 deny that there ever was any such thing as the gunpowder conspiracy; 
 but he affirm'd that he himself had severall letters written by Sir Eve- 
 rard Digby (one of the traytors), in which he gloried that he was to 
 suffer for it ; and that it was so contriv'd, that of the Papists not above 
 two or three should have ben blown up, and they, such as were not 
 worth saving. 
 
 15. The Queene's birth-day. I never saw the Court more brave, 
 nor the nation in more apprehension and consternation. Coleman and 
 «ne Staly had now ben tried, condemn'd, and executed. On this 
 Gates grew so presumptuous, as to accuse the Queene of intending to 
 poison the King, which certainly that pious and vertuous lady abharrd 
 
 Mr. Evelyn speaks of Dr, Tong's having translated the last of these by his desire. 
 
 Oates said that Thomas Whitbread, a priest, on 13 June, 16 . . . did tell the Rector of St. 
 Omer's, that a Minister of the Church of England had scandalously put out the 'Jesuits* 
 Morals ' in English, and had endeavoured to render them odious, and had asked the Rector 
 whether he thought Oates might know him ? and the Rector called the deponent, who heard 
 ithese words as he stood at the chamber door, and when he went into the chamber of the Pro- 
 vincial, he asked him 'If he knew the author of the Jesuits' Morals? ' deponent answered, 
 • His person, but not his name.' Whitbread then demanded, whether he would undertake to 
 poison or assassinate the author ; which deponent undertook, havinj": j^50. reward promised 
 ifauQ, and apppointed to return to England. — From apublication of Oju^. 
 
4O0 TITUS GATES AND THE PAPISTS. DISSOLUTION Of PARLIAMENT. 
 
 ihe thoughts of, and Oates his circumstances made it utterly unlikely, 
 in my opinion. He probably thought to gratifie some who would have 
 ben glad his Majesty should have married a fruitful! lady ; but the King 
 was too kind a husband to let any of these make impression on him. 
 However divers of the Popish Peeres were sent to the Towre, accus'd 
 by Oates, and all the Roman Catholic Lords were by a new act forever 
 excluded the Parliament, which was a mighty blow. The King's, (Queen's, 
 and Duke's servants, were banish'd, and a test to be taken by every- 
 body who pretended to enjoy any office of publiq trust, and who would 
 not be suspected of Popery. I went with Sir William Godolphin, a 
 member of the Commons House, to the Bishop of Ely (Dr. Pet. Gun- 
 ning), to be resolv'd whether masses were idolatry, as the test express'd 
 it, which was so worded that several good Protestants scrupl'd, and Sir 
 William, tho' a learned man and excellent divine himselfe, had some 
 doubts about it. The Bishop's opinion was, that he might take it, tho' 
 he wish'd it had ben otherwise worded in the test. 
 
 1679. 15 Jan. I went with my Lady Sunderland to Chelsey, and 
 din'd with the Countesse of Bristol [her mother] in the greate house, 
 formerly the Duke of Buckingham's, a spacious and excellent place for 
 the extent of ground and situation in a good aire. The house is large, 
 but ill contriv'd, tho' my Lord of Bristol, who purchas'd it after he sold 
 Wimbledon to my Lord Treasurer, expended much mony on it. There 
 were divers pictures of Titian and Vandyke, and some of Bassano, 
 very excellent, especialy an Adonis and Venus, a Duke of Venice, a 
 Butcher in his shambles selling tneate to a Swissej and of Van-Dyke, 
 my Lord of Bristol's picture, with the Earl of Bedford's at length, in 
 the same table. There was in the garden a rare collection of orange- 
 trees, of which she was pleas'd to bestow some upon me. 
 
 16. I supp'd this night with Mr. Secretary at one Mr. Houblon's, a 
 French merchant, who had his house furnish'd en Prince, and gave us 
 a splendid entertainment. 
 
 25. The Long Parliament, which had sat ever since the Restaura- 
 tion, was dissolv'd by persuasion of the Lord Treassurer, tho' divers of 
 them were believ'd to be his pensioners. At this all the politicians 
 were at a stand, they being very eager in pursuite of the late Plot of 
 the Papists. 
 
 30. Dr. Cudworth preached before the King at White-hall, on 2 
 Timothy 3. 5. reckoning up the perils of the last times, in which, 
 imongst other wickednesse, Treasons should be one of the greatest, 
 applying it to the occasion, as committed under a forme of reformation 
 and godlinesse ; concluding that the prophesy did intend more par- 
 ticularly the present age, as one of the last times ; the sinns there 
 enumerated, more aboundantly reigning than ever. 
 
 2 Feb. Dr. Durell, Dean of Windsor, preach'd to the Household at 
 White-hall, on i Cor. 16. 22 ; he read the whole sermon out of his 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 407 
 
 notes, which I had never before seene a Frenchman do, he being of 
 Jersey, and bred at Paris. 
 
 4. Dr. Pierce, Deane of Salisbury, preached on I John 4. i, ' Try 
 the Spirits, there being so many delusorie ones gone forth of late 
 into the world :' he inveied against the pernicious doctrines of Mr. 
 Hobbes. 
 
 Mr. brother Evelyn was now chosen Knight for the County of Surrey, 
 carrying it against my Lord Longford and Sir Adam Brown of Betch- 
 worth Castle. The country coming in to give him their suffrages were 
 so many, that I believe they eate and dranke him out neere ;£2,ooo, by 
 a most abominable costome. 
 
 I April. My friend Mr. Godolphin was now made one of the Lords 
 Commissioners of the Treasury, and of the Privy Council. 
 
 4. The Bp. of Gloucester preach'd, in a manner very Uke Bishop 
 Andrews, full of divisions, and scholastical, and that with much quick- 
 nesse. The holy Communion followed. 
 
 20. Easter Day. Our Vicar preached exceeding well on i Cor. 5 
 and 7. The holy Communion followed, at which I and my daughter 
 Mary (now about 14 yeares old) received for the first time. The 
 Lord Jesus continue his grace unto her, and improve this blessed 
 beginning. 
 
 24. The Duke of York, voted against by the Commons for his 
 recusancy, went over to Flanders, which made much discourse. 
 
 4 June. I din'd with Mr. Pepys in the Tower, he having ben com- 
 mitted by the House of Commons for misdemeanors in the Admiralty 
 when he was Secretary ; I believe he was unjustly charged ". Here I 
 saluted my Lords Stafford and Petre, who were committed for the 
 Popish Plot. 
 
 7. I saw the magnificent cavalcade and entry of the Portugal Am- 
 bassador. 
 
 17. I was godfather to a sonn of Sir Christopher Wren, Surveyor of 
 his Majestys buildings, that most excellent and learned person, with 
 Sir William Fermor and my Lady Viscountesse Newport, wife of the 
 Treasurer of the Household. 
 
 Thence to Chelsey, to Sir Stephen Fox, and my lady, in order to his 
 purchase of the Countesse of Bristol's house there, which she desir'd 
 me to procure a chapman for. 
 
 19. I din'd at Sir Robert Clayton's with Sir Robert Viner, the 
 greate banquer. 
 
 22. There were now divers Jesuites executed about the Plot, and a 
 rebellion in Scotland of the Phanatics, so that there was a sad pros- 
 pect of public affairs. 
 
 25. The new Commissioners of the Admiralty came to visite me, 
 
 I Mr. Pepys was concenied in a contested election in 1684, and his opponent accused him 
 of being a Papist, which the House of Commons inquired into, but without finding any proof. 
 By Grey's Debates it appears that he was accused of having sent information to the French 
 court of the state of the English Navy. Most incredible I 
 
4-08 COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. A YOUNG PRODIGY. 
 
 viz. Sir Henry Capel, brother to the Earle of Essex, Mr. Finch, eldest 
 son to the Lord Chancellor, Sir Humph. Winch, Sir Thomas Meeres, 
 Mr. Hales, with some of the Commissioners of the Navy. I went with 
 them to London. 
 
 I July. I dinedatSirW.Godolphin's,and with that learned gentleman 
 went to take the aire in Hyde Park, where was a glorious cortege. 
 
 3 July. Sending a piece of venison to Mr. Pepys, still a prisoner, I 
 went and din'd with him. 
 
 6. Now were there papers, speeches, and libels, publiqly cried in 
 the streetes against the Dukes of York and Lauderdale, &c. obnoxious 
 to the Parliament, with too much and indeede too shameful a liberty ; 
 but the people and Parliament had gotten head by reason of the vices 
 of the greate ones. 
 
 There was now brought up to London a child, son of one Mr. 
 Wotton^ formerly amanuensis to Dr. Andrews, Bishop of Winton, 
 who both read and perfectly understood Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabic, 
 Syriac, and most of the modern languages ; disputed in Divinity, Law, 
 and all the Sciences ; was skilful in History both Ecclesiastical and 
 Profane ; in Politics ; in a word, so universally and solidly learned at 
 1 1 yeares of age, that he was looked on as a miracle. Dr. Lloyd, one 
 of the most deepe learned divines of this nation in all sorts of litera- 
 ture, with Dr. Burnet, who had severely examin'd him, came away 
 
 I The Rev. Henry Wotton, Minister of Wrentham, in Suffolk. This son was afterwards 
 the celebrated Wm. Wotton, the friend and defender of Dr. Bentley, and the antagonist of Sir 
 William Temple in the great Controversy about Antient and Modem Learning. His early 
 and extraordinary proficiency in letters and general knowledge of every kind, was comme- 
 morated by his father in a pamphlet ' On the Education of Children,' addressed to King 
 Charles II. and reprinted in 1^53, with the attestations of several learned men who had exam- 
 ined him, to the truth of his uncommon abilities and wonderful acquisitions in the different 
 languages, both antient and modem : yet it is remarkable those eminent qualifications did not 
 advance him in the line of his profession beyond a Fellowship at Cambridge and a country 
 parsonage, viz. Milton, in Buckinghamshire, which was given him by the Earl of Nottingham, 
 to whom he had been Chaplain. Sir Philip Skippon, who lived at Wrentham, in Suffolk, in a 
 letter to Mr. John Ray, Sep. 18, 1671, writes : * I shall somewhat surprize you with what I 
 have seen in a little boy, William Wotton, 5 years old last month, son of Mr. Wotton, minister 
 of this parish, \\ ho hath instructed his child within the last 3 quarters of a year in the reading 
 the Latin, Greek, and Hebrew languages, which he can read almost as well as English, and 
 that tongue he could read at four years and three months old, as well as most lads of twice 
 his age.' Sir Philip left a draught of a longer letter to Mr. Ray, in which he adds, ' He is not 
 yet able to parse any language, but what he performs in turning the 3 learned .tongues into 
 English, is done by strength of memory, so that he is ready to mistake when some words of 
 different signification have near the same sound. His father hath taught him by no rules, but 
 only uses his memory in remembering words.' — He was admitted of Catherine Hall, Cam- 
 bridge, April, 1676, some months before he was 10 years old. He took the degree of B. A. 
 when only 12 years and 5 months old. Dr. Burnet, Bp. of Sarum, recommended him to Dr. 
 Lloyd, Bp. of St. Asaph, who took him as an assistant in making a Catalogue of his books, 
 and carried him to St. Asaph, and gave him the sinecure of Llandrillo in Denbighshire. He 
 suffered from the satirical pen of Swift ; but this is no wonder, as he had spoken of the Tale of 
 a Tub as a profane piece of ribaldry. He compiled Memoirs of the Cathedral Churches of St. 
 David and St. Asaph, which Browne Willis published. When very young, he remembered 
 almost the whole of any discourse he had heard, and repeated to Bp. Lloyd one of his own 
 lermons. He died In 1726, aged 61, and was buried at Buxted in Sussex. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 409 
 
 astonish'd, and told me they did not believe there had the like appeared 
 in the world. He had onely ben instructed by his father, who being 
 himselfe a learned person, confess'd that his sonn knew all that he him- 
 selfe knew. But what was more admirable than his vast memory was 
 his judgment and invention, he being tried with divers hard questions, 
 which requir'd maturity of thought and experience. He was also dex- 
 trous in Chronology, Antiquities, Mathematics. In sum, an Intellectus 
 universalis, beyond all that we reade of Picus Mirandula, and other 
 precoce witts, and yet withall a very humble child. 
 
 14. I went to see how things stood at Parson's Green, my lady 
 Viscountesse Mordaunt (now sick in Paris, whither she went for health) 
 having made me a trustee for her children, an office I could not refuse 
 to this most excellent, pious, and virtuous lady, my long acquaintance. 
 
 15. I din'd with Mr. Sidney Godolphin, now one of the Lords Com- 
 missioners of the Treasury. 
 
 18. I went early to the Old Bailey Sessions-house, to the famous 
 trial of Sir George Wakeman, one of the Queene's physitians, and three 
 Benedictine Monks ; the first (whom I was well acquainted with, and 
 take to be a worthy gentleman abhorring such a fact) for intending to 
 poison the King ; the others, as accomplices to carry on the plott, to 
 subvert the government and introduce Popery." The Bench was crowded 
 with the Judges, Lord Maior, Justices, and innumerable spectators. 
 The cheife accusers. Dr. Oates (as he call'd himselfe), and one Bedlow, 
 a man of inferior note. Their testimonys were not so pregnant, and I 
 feare much of it from hearsay, but swearing positively to some particu- 
 lars, which drew suspicion upon their truth ; nor did circumstances so 
 agree as to give either the Bench or Jury so entire satisfaction as was 
 expected. After therefore a long and tedious tryal of 9 houres, the 
 Jury brought them in not guilty, to the extraordinary triumph of the 
 Papists, and without sufficient disadvantage and reflections on the wit- 
 nesses, especialy Oates and Bedlow. This was a happy day for the 
 Lords in the Tower, who expecting their triall, had this gon against the 
 prisoners at the bar, would all have ben in the utmost hazard. For my 
 part, I looke on Oates as a vain insolent man, puff'd up with the favour 
 of the Commons for having discover'd something realy true, more espe- 
 cialy as detecting the dangerous intrigue of Coleman, prov'd out of his 
 owne letters, and of a generall designe which the Jesuited party of the 
 Papists ever had, and still have, to mine the Church of England ; but 
 that he was trusted with those greate seacrets he pretended, or had any 
 solid ground for what he accus'd divers noblemen of, I have many 
 reasons to induce my contrary beliefe. That among so many Com- 
 missions as he affirm'd to have deliver'd to them from P. Oliva' and 
 the Pope, he who made no scruple of opening all other papers, letters, 
 and seacrets, should not only not open any of those pretended Com- 
 
 ^ Padr6 Oliva, General of che Order of Jesuits. 
 
410 TITUS GATES. COLEMAN THE JESUIT. CLIFDEN HOUSE. 
 
 missions, but not so much as take any copy or witnesse of any one ol 
 them, is almost miraculous. But the Commons (some leading persons 
 I meane of them) had so exalted him, that they tooke all he said for 
 gospell, and without more ado ruin'd all whom he nam'd to be conspi- 
 rators ; nor did he spare whoever came in his way. But indeede the 
 murder of Sir Edm. Godfrey, suspected to have ben compass'd by the 
 Jesuite party for his intimacy with Coleman (a buisy person whom 
 I also knew) and the feare they had that he was able to have discover'd 
 some things to their prejudice, did so exasperate not only the Commons 
 but all the Nation, that much of these sharpnesses against the more 
 honest Roman Catholics who liv'd peaceably, is to be imputed to that 
 horrid fact. 
 
 The Sessions ended, I din'd, or rather supp'd (so late it was), with 
 the Judges 1 in the large roome annex'd to the place, and so return'd 
 home. Tho' it was not my costonie or delight to be often present at 
 any capital trials, we having them commonly so exactly publish'd by 
 those who take them in short-hand, yet I was inchn'd to be at this 
 signal one, that by the ocular view of the carriages and other circum- 
 stances of the managers and parties concerned, I might informe my- 
 selfe, and regulate my opinion of a cause that had so grievously alarm'd 
 the whole nation. 
 
 22 July. Din'd at Clapham at Sir D. Gauden's ; went thence with 
 him to Windsor, to assist him in a business with his Majesty. I lay 
 that night ;it Eton College, the Provost's lodgings (Dr. Craddock), 
 where I was courteously entertained. 
 
 23. To Court : after dinner I visited that excellent painter Verrio, 
 whose works in fresca in the King's palace at Windsor will celebrate 
 his name as long as those walls last. He shew'd us his pretty garden, 
 choice flowers, and curiosities, he himselfe being a skilfuU gardener. 
 
 1 went to Chfden, that stupendous natural rock, wood, and prospect, 
 of the Duke of Buckingham's,'' buildings of extraordinary expence. 
 The grotts in the chalky rock are pretty : 'tis a romantic object, and the 
 place altogether answers the most poetical description that can be made 
 of solitude, precipice, prospect, or whatever can contribute to a thing 
 so very like their imaginations. The stande, somewhat like Jrascati as 
 to its front, and on the platform, is a circular view to the utmost verge of 
 the horizon, which with the serpenting of the Thames is admirable. The 
 Staire case is for its materials singular ; the cloisters, descents, gardens, 
 and avenue thro' the wood, august and stately, but the land all about 
 wretchedly barren, and producing nothing but feme. Indeede, as 1 
 
 '■ The Judges were. Lord Chief Justice North, Mr. Justice Atkins, Mr. Justice Windham, 
 Mr. Justice Pexnberton, Mr. Justice Doiben. 
 
 2 . Cliefden's proud alcove, 
 
 The bower of wanton Shrewsbury and Love. Pope, 
 TTle Countess of Shrewsbury, whose husband having challenged the Duke, she it laid M 
 have held the horse of the latter in the habit of a page whilst they fought. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 4II 
 
 told his Majesty that evening (asking me how I lik'd Clifden) without 
 flattery, that it did not please me so well as Windsor for the prospect 
 and park, which is without compare, there being but one only opening, 
 and that narrow, which led one to any variety, whereas that of Windsor 
 is every where greate and unconfin'd. 
 
 Returning I call'd at my cousin Evelyn's, who has a very pretty seate 
 in the forest, 2 miles behither Clifden, on a flat, with gardens exqui- 
 sitely kept tho' large, and the house a stanch good old building, and 
 what was singular, some of the roomes floor'd dove-tail-wise without 
 a nail, exactly close. One of the closetts is parquetted with plaine 
 deale, set in diamond, exceeding stanch and pretty. 
 
 7 Aug. Dined at the Sheriffs, when, the Company of Drapers and 
 their wives being invited, there was a sumptuous entertainment ac- 
 cording to the formes of the Citty with musiq, &c. comparable to any 
 Prince's service in Europ. 
 
 8. I went this morning to shew my Lord Chamberlaine, his Lady, 
 and the Dutchesse of Grafton, the incomparable work of Mr. Gibbons 
 the carver, whom I first recommended to his Majesty, his house being 
 fumish'd like a cabinet, not onely with his owne work, but divers ex- 
 cellent paintings of the best hands. Thence to Sir Stephen Foxes, 
 where we spent the day. 
 
 31. After evening service to see a neighbour, one Mr. Bohun, re- 
 lated to my sonn's late tutor of that name, a rich Spanish merchant, 
 living in a neate place, which he has adorned with many curiosities, 
 especialy severall carvings of Mr. Gibbons, and some pictures by 
 Streeter. 
 
 13 Sept. To Windsor, to congratulate his Majesty on his recovery; 
 1 kiss'd the Duke's hand now lately return'd from Flanders to visite 
 his brother the King, on which there were various bold and foolish dis- 
 courses, the Duke of Monmouth being sent away. 
 
 19. My Lord Sunderland, one of the principal Secretaries of State, 
 invited me to dinner, where was the King's natural sonn, the Earle 
 of Plymouth, the Earle of Shrewsbury, E. of Essex, E. of Mulgrave, 
 Mr. Hyde, and Mr. Godolphin. After dinner I went to prayers at Eton, 
 and visited Mr. Hen. Godolphin, fellow there, and Dr. Cradock. 
 
 25. Mr. Slingsby and Signior Verrio came to dine with me, to 
 whom I gave China oranges off my owne trees, as good, I think, as 
 were ever eaten. 
 
 6 Oct. A very wet and sickly season. 
 
 23. Dined at my Lo. Chamberlaines, the King being now newly re- 
 turned from his New-market recreations. 
 
 4 Nov. Din'd at the Lord Maior's, and in the evening went to the 
 funerall of my pious, dear, and ancient learned friend, Dr. Jasper Need- 
 ham, who was buried at St. Bride's Church. He was a true and holy 
 Christian, and one who lov'd me with greate affection. Dr.. Dove 
 
412 BLOOMSBURY. REMARRIAGE OF THE DUKE OF GRAFTON. 
 
 preach'd with an eulogie due to his memory. I lost in this person one 
 of my dearest remaining sincere friends. 
 
 5. I was invited to dine at my Lord Tividale's, a Scotch Earle, a 
 learned and knowing nobleman. We afterwards went to see Mr. 
 Mountague's new palace neere Bloomsbery, built by our curator Mr. 
 Hooke, somewhat after the French ; it was most nobly furnish'd, and 
 a fine, but too much expos'd garden. 
 
 6. Din'd at the Countesse of Sunderland's, and was this evening at 
 the re-marriage of the Dutchesse of Grafton to the Duke (his Majesty's 
 natural sonn) she being now 12 years old. The ceremonie v/as per- 
 formed in my Lord Chamberlaines (her fathers) lodgings at White-hall 
 by the Bishop of Rochester, his Majesty being present. A sudden and 
 unexpected thing, when every body believ'd the first marriage would 
 have come to nothing ; but the measure being determin'd I was pri- 
 vately invited by my Lady, her mother, to be present. I confesse 
 I could give her little joy, and so I plainely told her, but she said the 
 King would have it so, and there was no going back. This sweetest, 
 hopefuUest, most beautifuU child, and most vertuous too, was sacrific'd 
 to a boy that had ben rudely bred, without any thing to encourage them 
 but his Majesty's pleasure. I pray God the sweete child find it to her 
 advantage, who, if my augury deceive me not, will in few years be such 
 a paragon as were fit to make the wife of the greatest Prince in Europe. 
 I staled supper, where his Majesty sate betweene the Dutchesse of 
 Cleaveland (the mother of the Duke of Grafton) and the sweete 
 Dutchesse the bride ; there were several greate persons and ladies, 
 without pomp. My love to my Lord Arlington's family and the sweete 
 child made me behold all this with regret, tho' as the Duke of Grafton 
 affects the sea, to which I find his father intends to use him, he may 
 emerge a plaine, usefull, and robust officer, and were he polish'd, a 
 tolerable person, for he is exceeding handsome, by far surpassing any 
 of the King's other naturall issue. 
 
 8 Nov. At Sir Stephen Fox's, and was agreeing for the Countesse 
 of Bristol's house at Chelsey within ^.500. 
 
 18. I din'd at my Lord Maiors [Sir Robert Clayton] being desired 
 by the Countesse of Sunderland to carry her thither on a solemn day, 
 that she might see the pomp and ceremonie of this Prince of Citizens, 
 there never having ben any, who, for the stateliness of his palace, pro- 
 digious feasting, and magnificence, exceeded him. This Lord Maior's 
 acquaintance had ben from the time of his being apprentice to one Mr. 
 Abbot, his uncle, who being a scrivener, and an honest worthy man, 
 one who was condemn'd to die at the beginning of the troubles 40 
 years past, as concem'd in the commission of array for K. Charles 1. 
 had escap'd with his life ; I often us'd his assistance in money matters. 
 Robert Clayton, then a boy, his nephew, became after his uncle 
 Abbot's death, so prodigiously rich and opulent, that he was reckon'd 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 4.I3 
 
 one of the wealthiest citizens. He married a free-hearted woman, who 
 became his hospitable disposition, and having no children, with the 
 accession of his partner (Morris) and fellow apprentice, who also left 
 him his estate, he grew excessively rich. He was a discreete magis- 
 trate, and tho' envied, I think without much cause. Some believ'd him 
 guilty of hard dealing, especialy with the Duke of Buckingham, much 
 of whose estate he had swallow'd, but I never saw any ill by him, con- 
 sidering the trade he was of. The reputation and known integrity of 
 his uncle Abbot brought all the royal party to him, by which he got not 
 onely greate credit, but vast wealth, so as he pass'd this office with in- 
 finite magnificence and honor. 
 
 20 Nov. I din'd with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, with my 
 wife, invited to heare musiq, which was exquisitely perform'd by foure 
 of the most renown'd masters ; Du Prue, a Frenchman, on the lute ; 
 Signor Bartholomeo, an Italian, on the harpsichord ; Nicolao on the 
 violin ; but above all for its sweetnesse and novelty, the viol d'amore 
 of 5 wyre-strings plaied on with a bow, being but an ordinary violin, 
 play'd on lyre way by a German. There was also a flute douce, now 
 in much request for accompanying the voice. Mr. Slingsby, whose 
 sonn and daughter play'd skilfuUy, had these meetings frequently in 
 his house. 
 
 21. I din'd at my Lord Maior's to accompany my worthiest and 
 generous friend the Earl of Ossorie ; it was on a Friday, a private day, 
 but the feast and entertainment might have become a King. Such an 
 hospitable costume and splendid magistrature dos no city in the world 
 shew, as I believe. 
 
 23. Dr. Allestree preach'd before the household on 1 1 St. Luke 2. 
 Dr. Lloyd on 28 Matt. 20. before the King, shewing with how little 
 reason the Papists applied those words of our Blessed Saviour to main- 
 taine the pretended infallibility they boast of. I never heard a more 
 Christian and excellent discourse : yet were some offended that he 
 seemed to say the Church of Rome was a true Church ; but 'twas a 
 captious mistake, for he never affirmed any thing that could be more to 
 their reproach, and that such was the present Church of Rome, show- 
 ing how much it had erred. There was not in this sermon so much as 
 a shadow for censure, no person of all the Cleargy having testified 
 greater zeale against the errors of the Papists than this pious and most 
 learned person. I dined at the Bishop of Rochester's, and then went 
 to St. Paul's to heare that greate wit Dr. Sprat, now newly succeeding 
 Dr. Outram in the cure of St. Margaret's. His talent was a great 
 memory, never making use of notes, a readinesse of expression in 3 
 most pure and plain style of words, full of matter, easily deliver'd. 
 
 26 Nov. I met the Earle of Clarendon with the rest of my fellow 
 executors of the Will of my late Lady Viscountesse Mordaunt, viz. Mr. 
 Laurence Hyde, one of the Commissioners of the Treasury, and lately 
 
/;i4 LAURENCE HYDE; LORD OSSORIE ; MARRIAGE OF MY SON. 
 
 Plenipotentiary Ambassador at Nimeguen ; Andrew Newport, and Sil 
 Charles Wheeler, to examine and audit and dispose of this year's 
 accompt of the estate of this excellent Lady, according to the direction 
 of her will. 
 
 27. I went to see Sir John Stonehouse, with whom I was treating a 
 marriage between my sonn and his daughter-in-law. 
 
 28. Came over the Duke of Monmouth from Holland unexpectedly 
 to his Majesty, whilst the Duke of York was on his journey to Scotland, 
 whither the King sent him to reside and governe. The bells and bon- 
 fires of the Citty at this arrival of the Duke of Monmouth publishing 
 their joy, to the no small regret of some at Court. This Duke, whonr 
 for distinction they call'd the Protestant Duke (tho' the sonn of an 
 abandon'd woman), the people made their idol. 
 
 4 Dec. I din'd, together with Lord Ossorie and the E. of Chester- 
 field, at the Portugal Ambassadors, now newly come, at Cleaveland 
 
 House, a noble palace, too good for that infamous The 
 
 staire-case is sumptuous, and the gallerie and garden, but above all the 
 costly furniture belonging to the Ambassador, especialy the rich Japan 
 cabinets, of which I think there were a dozen. There was a billiard- 
 table, with as many more hazards as ours commonly have ; the game 
 being only to prosecute the ball till hazarded, without passing the port 
 or touching the pin ; if one miss hitting the ball every time, the game 
 is lost, or if hazarded. Tis more difficult to hazard a ball, tho' so many, 
 than in our table, by reason the bound is made so exactly even, and the 
 edges not stuff'd ; the balls also are bigger, and they for the most part 
 use the sharp and small end of the billiard stick, which is shod with 
 brasse or silver. The entertainment was exceeding civil, but besides a 
 good oho, the dishes were trifling, hash'd and condited after their 
 way, not at all fit for an English stomach, which is for solid meate. 
 There was yet good fowle, but roasted to coale, nor were the sweet- 
 meates good. 
 
 30 Dec. I went to meete Sir John Stonehouse, and give him a par- 
 ticular of the settlement on my sonn, who now made his adresses to 
 the young lady his daughter-in-law, daughter of Lady Stonehouse. 
 
 1680. 25 Jan. Dr. Cave, author of ' Primitive Christianity,' &c. a 
 pious and learned man, preached at White-hall to the household on 
 3 James 17, concerning the duty of grace and charity. 
 
 30. I supped with Sir Stephen Fox, now made one of the Lords 
 Commissioners of the Treasury. 
 
 19 Feb. The writings for the settling joynture and other contracts 
 of marriage of my sonn were finished and sealed. The lady was to 
 bring 5000/. in consideration of a settlement of 500/. a yeare present 
 maintenance, which was likewise to be her jointure, and 500/. a yeare 
 after myne and my wife's decease. But with God's blessing it will be 
 at the least 1000/. a yeare more in few yeares. I pray God make him 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 4.IS 
 
 worthy of it, and a comfort to his excellent mother, who deserves much 
 from him. 
 
 21. Shrove Tuesday. My sonn was married to Mrs. Martha Spen» 
 cer, daughter to my Lady Stonehouse by a former gentleman, at St. 
 Andrew's Holborn, by our Vicar, borrowing the Church of Dr. Stilling- 
 fleet, Deane of St. Paul's, the present incumbent. We afterwards din'd 
 at a house in Holborn ; and after the solemnity and dauncing was don, 
 they were bedded at Sir John Stonehouse's lodging in Bow-streete, 
 Covent Garden. 
 
 26. To the R. Society, where I met an Irish Bishop with his Lady, 
 who was daughter to my worthy and pious friend Dr. Jeremy Taylor, 
 late Bp. of Downe and Connor ; they came to see the Repository. She 
 seemed to be a knowing woman, beyond the ordinary talent of her sex. 
 
 3 Mar. I din'd at my Lord Mayor's in order to the meeting my 
 Lady Beckford, whose daughter (a rich heiresse) I had recommended 
 to my brother of Wotton for his only sonn, she being the daughter of 
 the lady by Mr. Ersfield [Eversfield], a Sussex gentleman. 
 
 16. To London, to receive ^.3,000 of my daughter-in-law's portion, 
 which was paid in gold. 
 
 26. The Dean of Sarum preach'd on Jerem. 45, 5, an hour and 
 halfe from his common-place book of kings and greate men retiring to 
 private situations. Scarce any thing of Scripture in it. 
 
 18 April. On the earnest invitation of the Earle of Essex I went 
 with him to his house at Cashioberie in Hartford-shire. It was on 
 Sunday, but going early from his house in the square of St. James, we 
 ariv'd by ten o'clock ; this he thought too late to go to church, and we 
 had prayers in his chapell. The house is new, a plaine fabric, built 
 by my friend Mr. Hugh May. There are divers faire and good roomes, 
 and excellent carving by Gibbons, especialy the chimney-piece of the 
 Library. There is in the porch or entrance a painting by Verrio, of 
 Apollo and the Liberal Arts. One roome parquetted with yew, which 
 I lik'd well. Some of the chimney mantles are of Irish marble, brought 
 by my Lord from Ireland when he was Lord Lieutenant, and not much 
 inferior to Italian. The tympanum or gabal at the front is a bass- 
 relievo of Diana hunting, cut in Portland stone, handsomely enough. 
 I did not approve of the middle Jores being round, but when the Hall 
 is finish'd as design'd, it being an oval with a cupola, together with the 
 other wing, it will be a very noble palace. The library is large, and 
 very nobly fumish'd, and all the books are richly bound and gilded ; 
 but there are no MSS. except the Parliament Rolls and Journals, the 
 transcribing and binding of which cost him, as he assur'd me, ;^.50o. 
 
 No man has ben more industrious than this noble Lord in planting 
 abeut his seate, adorn'd with walkes, ponds, and other rural elegancies ; 
 but the soile is stonie, churlish, and uneven, nor is the water neeie 
 enough to the house, tho' a very swift and cleare stream runs witlua a 
 
41 6 CASHIOBERIE HOUSE. SALE OF PARSON'S GREEN. 
 
 flight shot from it in the vally, which may fitly be call'd Coldbrook, it 
 being indeede excessive cold, yet producing faire troutes. 'Tis pitty 
 the house was not situated to more advantage, but it seemes it was 
 built just where the old one was, which I believe he onely meant to 
 repaire ; this leads men into irremediable errors, and it saves but 
 a very little. 
 
 The land about it is exceedingly addicted to wood, but the coldnesse 
 of the place hinders the growth. Black cherry-trees prosper even to 
 considerable timber, some being 80 foote long ; they make also very 
 handsome avenues. There is a pretty oval at the end of a faire walke, 
 set about with treble rows of Spanish chesnut trees. 
 
 The gardens are very rare, and cannot be otherwise, having so skill- 
 ful an artist to govern them as Mr. Cooke, who is, as to the mechanic 
 part, not ignorant in Mathematics, and pretends to Astrologie. There 
 is an excellent collection of the choicest fruit. 
 
 As for my Lord, he is a sober, wise, judicious, and pondering person, 
 not illiterate beyond the rate of most noblemen in this age, very well 
 vers'd in English historie and affaires, industrious, frugal, methodical, 
 and every way accomplish'd. His Lady (being sister of the late Earle 
 of Northumberland) is a wise, yet somewhat melancholy woman, set- 
 ting her heart too much on the little lady her daughter, of whom she 
 is over fond. They have an hopeful son at the Academic. 
 
 My Lord was not long since come from his Lord Lieutenancy of 
 Ireland, where he shew'd his abilities in administration and govern- 
 ment, as well as prudence in considerably augmenting his estate with- 
 out reproach. He had ben Ambassador Extraordinary in Denmark, 
 and, in a word, such a person as became the sonn of that worthy Hero 
 his father to be, the late Lord Capel, who lost his life for K. Charles I, 
 
 We spent our time in the mornings in walking or riding, and con- 
 triving [alterations], and the afternoones in the Library, so as I pass'd 
 my time for 3 or 4 daies with much satisfaction. He was pleas'd in 
 conversation to impart to me divers particulars of state, relating to the 
 
 present times. He being no great friend to the D was now laid 
 
 aside, his integritie and abilities being not so suiteable in this con- 
 juncture. 21. I returned to London. 
 
 30 April. To a meeting of the executors of the late Viscountesse 
 Mordaunt's estate, to consider of the sale of Parson's Greene, being in 
 treaty with Mr. Loftus, and to settle the halfe yeare's account. 
 
 I May. Wasameetingof the feoffees of the poore of our parish. This 
 yeare I would stand one of the collectors of their rents, to give example 
 to others. My sonn was added to the feoffees. 
 
 This afternoone came to visit me Sir Edw. Bearing of Surrendon in 
 Kent, one of the Lords of the Treasury, with his daughter, married to 
 my worthy friend Sir Robert Southwell, Clerk of the Council, now 
 Extraordinary Envoye to the Duke of Brandenburgh, and other Prin- 
 
THE JDIARY OF JOHN EVELYNS. 417 
 
 ces in Germanic, as before he had ben in Portugal, being a sober, wise, 
 and virtuous gentleman. 
 
 13. I was at the funeral of old Mr. Shish, master shipwright of his 
 Majesty's Yard here, an honest and remarkable man, and his death a 
 pubUc losse, for his excellent successe in building ships (tho' altogether 
 illiterate), and for breeding up so many of his children to be able artists. 
 I held up the pall with three knights, who did him that honour, and he 
 was worthy of it. It was the costome of this good man to rise in the 
 night, and to pray kneeling in his owne coffin, which he had lying by 
 him many yeares. He was borne in that famous yeare of the Gun- 
 powder plot 1605. 
 
 14 June. Came to dine with us the Countesse of Clarendon, Dr. 
 Lloyd, Deane of Bangor, (since Bp. of St. Asaph), Dr. Burnett, author 
 of the History of the Reformation, and my old friend Mr. Henshaw. 
 After dinner we all went to see the Observatory and Mr. Flamsted, who 
 shew'd us divers rare instruments, especialy the greate quadrant. 
 
 24 July. Went with my wife and daughter to Windsor, to see that 
 stately Court, now neere finish'd. There was erected in the Court the 
 King on horseback, lately cast in copper, and set on a rich pedestal ot 
 white marble, the worke of Mr. Gibbons, at the expence of Toby Rus- 
 tate, a page ' of the back staires, who by his wonderful frugality had 
 ariVd to a greate estate in mony, and did many works of charity, as 
 well as this of gratitude to his Master, which cost him ;£.iooo. He is 
 a very simple, ignorant, but honest and loyal creature. 
 
 We all din'd at the Countesse of Sunderland's afterwards to see 
 Signer Verrio's garden, thence to Eton College to salute the Provost, 
 and heard a Latine speech of one of the Alumni (it being at the elec- 
 tion), and were invited to supper, but took our leave, and got to Lon- 
 don that night in good time. 
 
 26. My most noble and illustrious friend, the Earl of Ossorie, es- 
 pying me this morning after sermon in the privy gallery, calling to me, 
 told me he was now going his journey (meaning to Tangier, whither he 
 was designed Governor and General of the Forces, to regaine the losses 
 we had lately sustain'd from the Moors, when Inchqueene was Gover- 
 nor). I ask'd if he would not call at my house (as he always did when- 
 ever he went out of England on any exploit) ; he said he must embark 
 at Portsmouth, ' wherefore let you and I dine together to-day, I am 
 quite alone, and have something to impart to you ; I am not well, shall 
 be private, and desire your company.' Being retir'd to his lodgings 
 and set down on a couch, he sent to his secretary for the copy of a let- 
 ter which he had written to Lord Sunderland (Secretary of State), 
 wishing me to reade it ; it was to take notice how ill he resc.ited it 
 
 * Mr. Tobias Rustate. He was a great benefactor to Jesus College, Cambridge, in particu- 
 lar, by an endowment of scholarships there for the benefit of young students, orphan sons of 
 Clergymen. 
 
4l8 TANGIER ; THE DUKE OF ORMOND ; DEATH OF LORD OSSORIE. 
 
 that he should tell the King before Lord Ossorie's face, that Tangier 
 was not to be kept, but would certainly be lost, and yet added that 'twas 
 ■fit for Lord Ossorie should be sent, that they might give some account 
 ■ of it to the world, meaning (as suppos'd) the next Parliament, when all 
 such miscarriages would probably be examin'd ; this Lord Ossorie took 
 very ill of Lord Sunderland, and not kindly of the King, who resolving 
 'to send him with an incompetent force, seem'd, as his Lordship tooke it, 
 'to be willing to cast him away, not only on an hazardous adventure, but in 
 imost men's opinion an impossibility, seeing there was not to be above 3 
 'or 400 horse and 4000 foote for the garrison and all, both to defend the 
 towne, forme a camp, repulse the enemy, and fortifie what ground 
 they should get in. This touch'd my Lord deeply, that he should be 
 so little consider'd as to put him on abusinesse in which he should pro- 
 bably not only loose his reputation, but be charg'd with all the mis- 
 carriages and ill successe ; whereas at first they promis'd 6000 foote 
 and 600 horse effective. My Lord being an exceeding brave and 
 valiant person, and who had so approv'd himself in divers signal 
 battailes, both at sea and land ; so belov'd, and so esteem'd by the 
 people, as one they depended upon all occasions worthy of such a 
 ■captain ; he looked on this as too greate an indifference in his Majesty 
 after all his services, and the merits of his father the Duke of Ormond, 
 and a designe of some who envied his virtue. It certainly tooke so 
 deepe roote in his mind, that he who was the most void of feare in the 
 world (and assur'd me he would go to Tangier with 10 men if his 
 Majesty commanded him) could not beare up against this unkindness. 
 Having disburden'd himselfe of this to me after dinner, he went with 
 his Majesty to the Sheriffs at a greate supper in Fishmongers Hall, but 
 finding himselfe ill, tooke his leave immediately of his Majesty, and 
 came back to his lodging. Not resting well this night, he was per- 
 suaded to remove to Arlington House for better accommodation. Hi? 
 disorder tum'd to a malignant fever, which increasing after all that six 
 of the most able physicians could do, he became delirious, with intervals 
 of sense, during which Dr. Lloyd (after Bp. of St. Asaph) administer'd 
 the holy sacrament, of which I also participated. He died the Friday 
 following, the 30 July, to the universal griefe of all that knew or heard 
 of his greate worth, nor had any a greater losse than myselfe. Oft 
 would he say I was the oldest acquaintance he had in England (when 
 his Father was in Ireland), it being now of above 30 yeares, contracted 
 abroad, when he rid in the Academie in Paris, and when we were sel- 
 dome asunder. His Majesty never lost a worthier subject, nor father a 
 better or more dutiful son ; a loving, generous, good-natur'd, and per- 
 fectly obliging friend ; one who had done innumerable kindnesses to 
 severaU before they knew it ; nor did he ever advance any that were 
 not worthy ; no one more brave, more modest : none more humble, 
 sober, and every way virtuous. Unhappy England in this illustrious 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 419 
 
 person's loss ! Universal was the mourning for him and the eulogies 
 on him ; I staled night and day by his bed-side to his last gasp, to close 
 his deare eyes ! O sad father, mother, wife, and children ! What shall 
 I add ! he deserv'd all that a sincere friend, a brave souldier, a virtuous 
 courtier, a loyal subject, an honest man, a bountifull master, and good 
 Christian could deserve of his Prince and Country. One thing more 
 let me note, that he often express'd to me the abhorrence he had of that 
 base and unworthy action which he was put upon, of engaging the 
 Smyrna fleete in time of peace, in which tho' he behav'd himselfe like 
 a greate captaine, yet he told me it was the onely blot in his life, and 
 troubled him exceedingly. Tho' he was commanded, and never exa- 
 min'd further when he was so, yet he always spake of it with regret and 
 detestation. The Countesse was at the seate of her daughter, the 
 Countesse oi Derby, almost 200 miles off 
 
 30 August. I went to visite a French gentleman, one Monsieur Chai- 
 dine, who having ben thrice in the East Indies, Persia, and other remote 
 countries, came hither in our returne ships from those parts, and it 
 being reported that he was a very curious and knowing man, I was 
 desir'd by the R. Society to salute him in their name, and to invite him 
 to honour them with his company. Sir Jo. Hoskins and Sir Christopher 
 Wren accompanied me. We found him at his lodgings in his Eastern 
 habit, a very handsome person, extremely affable, a modest, vrell-bred 
 man, not inclin'd to talke wonders. He spake Latine, and understood 
 Greeke, Arabic, and Persian, from 1 1 yeares travels in those parts, whither 
 he went in search of Jewells, and was become very rich. He seem'd about 
 36 years of age. After the usual civilities we ask'd some account of the 
 extraordinary things he must have scene in travelling over land to those 
 places where few, if any, Northern Europeans us'd to go, as the 
 Black and Caspian Sea, Mingrelia, Bagdat, Nineveh, Persepolis, 
 &c. He told us that the things most worthy of our sight would be the 
 draughts he had caus'd to be made of some noble ruines, &c. for that^ 
 besides his own little talent that way, he had carried two good painters 
 with him, to draw landskips, measure and designe the remaines of the 
 palace which Alexander burnt in his frolic at Persepolis, with divers 
 temples, columns, relievos, and statues, yet extant, which he affirm'd to 
 be sculpture far exceeding any thing he had observ'd either at Rome, 
 in Greece, or in any other part of the world where magnificence was in 
 estimation. He said there was an inscription in letters not intelligible, 
 though intire. He was sorry he could not gratify the curiosity of the 
 Society at present, his things not being yet out of the ship, but would 
 wait on them with them on his returne from Paris, whither he was 
 going the next day, but with intention to returne suddenly, and stay 
 longer here, the persecution in France not suffering Protestants, and he 
 was one, to be quiet. He told us that Nineveh was a vast citty, now 
 all buried in her ruines, the inhabitants building on the subterranean 
 
una MONSIEUR CHARDINE. THE ROYAL LIBRARY AT WHITEHALL. 
 
 vaults, which were, as appear'd the first stories of the old Cittie ; that 
 there were frequently found huge vases of fine earth, columns, and other 
 antiquities ; that the straw which the Egyptians requir'd of the Israel- 
 ites, was not to burne, or cover the rowes of bricks as we use, but being 
 chopp'd small to mingle with the clay, which being dried in the sun 
 (for they bake not in the furnaces) would else cleave asunder ; that in 
 Persiaareyetaraceof Igniculi who worship the sun and the fire as Gods ; 
 that the women of Georgia and Mingrelia were universaly, and without 
 any compare, the most beautifuU creatures for shape, features, and figure, 
 in the world, and therefore the Grand Seignior and Bashaws had had 
 from thence most of their wives and concubines ; that there had, within 
 these hundred yeares ben Amazons amongst them, that is to say, a sort 
 or race of valiant women, given to warr ; that Persia was extremely 
 fertile ; he spoke also of Japan and China, and of the many greate 
 errors of our late geographers, as we suggested matter for discourse. We 
 then took our leaves, failing of seeing his papers, but it was told us by ■ 
 others that indeede he durst not open or shew them till he had first 
 shewed them to the French King, but of this he himselfe said nothing. 
 2 Sept. I had an opportunity, his Majesty being still at Windsor, of 
 seeing his private library at White-hall, at my full ease. I went with 
 expectation of finding some curiosities, but though there were about 
 looo volumes, there were few of importance which I had not perus'd 
 before. They consisted chiefly of such books as had from time to time 
 ben dedicated or presented to him ; a few Histories, some Travels and 
 French bookes, aboundance of mapps and sea charts, entertainments 
 and pomps, buildings and pieces relating to the navy, some mathema- 
 tical instruments ; but what was most rare were 3 or 4 Romish brevia- 
 ries, with a great deal of miniature and monkish painting and gilding, 
 one of which is most exquisitely don, both as to the figures, grotesques, 
 and compartments, to the utmost of that curious art. There is another 
 in which I find written by the hand of K. Hen. VII. his giving it to his 
 deare daughter Margaret, afterwards Queene of Scots, in which he 
 desires her to pray for his soule, subscribing his name at length. There 
 is also the processe of the philosophers great elixer, represented in divers 
 pieces of excellent miniature, but the discourse is in High Dutch, a 
 MS. There is another MS. in 4to. of above 300 yeares old in French, 
 being an institution of physic, and in the botanical part the plants are 
 curiously painted in miniature : also a folio MS. of good thicknesse, 
 being the severall exercises, as Theames, Orations, Translations, &c. of 
 K. Edward VI. all written and subscrib'd by his o-wne hand, and with 
 his name ver)- legible, and divers of the Greeke interleav'd and cor- 
 rected after the manner of schole boys exercises, and that exceedingly 
 ivell and proper, with some epistles to his preceptor, which shew that 
 young Prince to have ben extraordinarily advanc'd in learning, and as 
 Cardan, who had ben in England affirm'd, stupendiously knpwing for 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 421 
 
 his age. There is likewise his Journal ', no lesse testifying his early 
 ripeness and care about the affaires of state. 
 
 There are besides many pompous volumes, some emboss'd with gold, 
 and intaglias on achats, medailes, &c. I spent 3 or 4 intire dales, 
 lock'd up and alone, among these bookes and curiosities. In the rest 
 of the private lodgings contiguous to this, are divers of the best pictures 
 of the greate masters, Raphael, Titian, &c. and, in my esteeme, above 
 all, the Noli me tangere of our blessed Saviour to Mary Magdalen after 
 his Resurrection, of Hans Holbein, then which I never saw so much 
 reverence and kind of heavenly astonishment express'd in a picture. 
 
 There are also divers curious clocks, watches, and pendules of exqui- 
 site work, and other curiosities. An ancient woman, who made these 
 lodgings cleane, and had all the keys, let me in at pleasure for a small 
 reward, by meanes of a friend. 
 
 6 Sept. I din'd with Sir Stephen Fox, now one of the Lords Com- 
 missioners of the Treasury. This gentleman came first a poore boy 
 from the quire of Salisbury, then was taken notice of by Bp. Duppa, 
 and afterwards waited on my Lord Percy (brother to Algernon E. of 
 Northumberland), who procur'd for him an inferior place amongst the 
 Clerks of the Kitchen and Greene Cloth side, where he was found so 
 humble, diligent, industrious, and prudent in his behaviour, that his 
 Majesty being in exile, and Mr. Fox waiting, both the King and Lords 
 about him frequently employ'd him about their affaires ; trusted him 
 both with receiving and paying the little mony they had. Returning 
 with his Majesty to England, after greate wants and greate sufferings, 
 his Majesty found him so honest and industrious, and withall so capable 
 and ready, that being advanc'd from Clerk of the Kitchen to that of 
 the Greene Cloth, he procur'd to be Paymaster to the whole Army, and 
 by his dexterity and punctual dealing he obtain'd such credit among 
 the banquers, that he was in a short time able to borrow vast sums of 
 them upon any exigence. The continual turning thus of mony, and 
 the souldiers moderate allowance to him for his keeping touch with 
 /them, did so inrich him, that he is believ'd to be worth at least 200,000/. 
 honestly gotten and unenvied, which is next to a miracle. With all 
 this he continues as humble and ready to do a courtesie as ever he was. 
 He is generous, and lives very honorably, of a sweete nature, well 
 SDoken, well bred, and is so highly in his Majesty's esteeme, and so 
 useiuil, that being long smce made a knight, he is also advanc'd to be 
 one of the Lords Commissioners of the Treasurie, and has the rever- 
 tion of the Cofferer's place after Harry Brouncker. He has married 
 his eldest daughter to my Lord Cornwallis, and gave her 1 2,000 pounds, 
 and restor'd that entangl'd family besides. He match'd his eldest son 
 to Mrs. Trollop, who brings with her (besides a greate sum) neere, if 
 
 ^ A Dote is added, that Dr. Burnet has transcribed many remarks out of this in his History 
 of the Reformation. 
 
422 SIR STEPHEN FOX. THE QUEEN OF SWEDEN. MY BIRTHDAY, 
 
 not altogether 2000/. per ann. Sir Stephen's Lady (an excellent 
 woman) is sister to Mr. Whittle, one of the King's chirurgeons. In a 
 word, never was man more fortunate than Sir Stephen ; he is an hand- 
 som person, vertuous, and very religious. 
 
 23 Sept. Came to my house some German strangers and Signor 
 Pietro a famous musitian, who had ben long in Sweden in Queene 
 Christina's Court ; he sung admirably to a guitar, and had a perfect 
 good tenor and base, and had set to Italian composure many of Abra- 
 ham Cowley's pieces, which shew'd extremely well. He told me that 
 in Sweden the heate in some part of summer was as excessive as the 
 cold in winter ; so cold, he afSrm'd, that the streetes of all the townes 
 are desolate, no creatures stirring in them for many moneths, all the 
 inhabitants retiring to their stoves. He spake high things of that ro- 
 mantic Queene's learning and skill in languages, the majestic of her 
 behaviour, her exceeding wit, and that the histories she had read of 
 other countries, especially of Italy and Rome, had made her despise 
 her owne. That the real occasion of her resigning her Crowne was 
 the Noblemen's importuning her to marrie, and the promise which the 
 Pope had made her of procuring her to be Queene of Naples, which 
 also caus'd her to change her religion ; but she was cheated by his 
 crafty Holiness,^ working on her ambition ; that the reason ot her 
 killing her Secretary at Fountaine Beleau^ was his revealing that in- 
 trigue with the Pope. But after all this I rather beheve it was her mad 
 prodigality and extreme vanity, which had consum'd those vast treasures 
 the greate Adolphus, her father, had brought out of Germany during 
 his [campaigns] there and wonderfuU successes ; and that if she had 
 not voluntarily resign'd, as foreseeing the event, the Estates of her 
 Kingdom would have compell'd her to do so. 
 
 30 Oct. I went to London to be private, my birthday being the next 
 day, and now I ariv'd at my sixtieth year, on which I began a more 
 solemn survey of my whole life, in order to the making and confirming 
 my peace with God, by an accurate scrutinie of all my actions past, as 
 far as I was able to call them to mind. How difficult and uncertaine, 
 yet how necessary a work ! The Lord be mercifuU to me, and accept 
 me ! Who can tell how oft he offendeth ? Teach me therefore so to 
 number my dales that I may apply my heart to wisdom, and make my 
 calUng and election sure. Amen, Lord Jesus. 
 
 13. I spent this whole day in exercises. A stranger preach'd at 
 White-hall on 16 Luke 30, 31.' I then went to St. Martin's, where the 
 Bp. of St. Asaph preach'd on i Peter 3, 15. ; the holy communion fol- 
 low'd, at which I participated, humbly imploring God's assistance Id 
 the greate worke I was entering into. In the aftemoone I heard Dr. 
 Sprat at St Margaret's on 17 Acts 11. 
 
 1 Pope Alexander VII. of the family of Chighi at Sienna. 
 
 ■ So called and written in that time. 
 
 • This was prohably to the King's household early in the moniinj^. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 423 
 
 I began and spent the whole weeke in examining my life, begging 
 pardon for my faults, assistance and blessing for the future, that I 
 might in some sort be prepar'd for the time that now drew neere, 
 and not have the greate work to begin when one can worke no longer. 
 The Lord Jesus help and assist me ! I therefore stirr'd little abroad 
 till the 5 November, when I heard Dr. Tenison, the now Vicar of St. 
 Martin's ; Dr. Lloyd, the former incumbent, being made the Bishop of 
 St. Asaph. 
 
 7. I participated of the blessed Communion, finishing and con- 
 firming my resolutions of giving myselfe up more intirely to God, to 
 whom I had now most solemnly devoted the rest of my poore remain- 
 der of life in this world ; the Lord enabling me, who am an unprofit- 
 able servant, amiserable sinner, yet depending on his infinite goodnesse 
 and mercy, accepting my endeavours. 
 
 15. Came to dine with us Sir Richard Anderson, his lady, sonn, 
 and wife, sister to my daughter in law. 
 
 30 Nov. The anniversary election at the Royall Society, brought 
 me to London, where was chosen President that excellent person and 
 greate philosopher Mr. Robert Boyle, who indeede ought to have ben 
 the very first ; but neither his infirmitie nor his modestie could now 
 any longer excuse him. I desired I might for this yeare be left out of 
 the Council, by reason my dwelling was in the country. The Society 
 according to costome dined together. 
 
 This signal day begun the trial (at which I was present) of my Lord 
 Viscount Stafford, for conspiring the death of the King ; second sonn 
 to my Lord Thomas Howard Earle of Arundel and Surry, Earle Ma- 
 rishaU of England and grandfather to the present Duke of Norfolk, 
 whom I so well knew, and from which excellent person I received sO' 
 many favours. It was likewise his birth-day. The trial was in West- 
 minster Hall, before the King, Lords, and Commons, just in the same 
 manner as 40 yeares past, the greate and wise Earle of Strafford (there- 
 being but one letter differing their names) receiv'd his trial for pre- 
 tended ill government in Ireland, in the very same place, this Lord 
 Stafford's father being then High Steward. The place of sitting was. 
 now exalted some considerable height from the paved floore of the 
 Hall, with a stage of boards. The throne, woolpacks for the Judges, 
 long formes for the Peeres, chaire for the Lord Steward, exactly ranged,, 
 as in the House of Lords. The sides on both hands scaffolded to the 
 very roofe for the Members of the House of Commons. At the upper 
 end and on the right side of the King's state, was a box for his Majesty, 
 and on the left others for the greate ladyes, and over heade a gallerie 
 for Ambassadors and public Ministers. At the lower end or entrance 
 was a barr, and place for the prisoner, the Lieutenant of the Tower of 
 London, the axe-bearer and guards, my Lord Stafford's two daughters, 
 the Marchionesse of Winchester being one ; there was likewise a box 
 
434 TRIAL AND CONDEMNATION OF VISCOUNT STAFFORD. 
 
 for my Lord to retire into. At the right hand, in another box, some- 
 what higher, stood the Witnesses ; at the left the Managers, in th« 
 name of the Commons of England, viz. Serjeant Maynard (the greate 
 lawyer) the same who prosecuted the cause against the Earle of Straf- 
 ford 40 yeares before, being now neere 80 yeares of age) Sir William 
 Jones, late Attorney General, Sir Francis Winnington, a famous pleader, 
 and Mr. Treby now Recorder of London, not appearing in their gownes 
 as lawyers, but in their cloakes and swords as representing the Com- 
 mons of England: to these were joined Mr. Hampden, Mr. Sacheverell, 
 Mr. Poule, Col. Titus, Sir Tho. Lee, all gentlemen of quahty, and 
 noted parliamentary men. The two first dayes, in which were read 
 the commission and impeachment, were but a tedious entrance into 
 matter of fact, at which I was but little present. But on Thursday I 
 was commodiously seated amongst the Commons, when the witnesses 
 were sworn and examined. The principal witnesses were Mr. Gates 
 (who call'd himselfe Dr.) Mr. Dugdale, and Tuber\'ille. Dates swore 
 that he deliver'd a commission to Viscount Stafford from the Pope, to 
 be Paymaster Generall to an army intended to be rais'd. Dugdale, that 
 being at Lord Aston's, the prisoner dealt with him plainly to murder his 
 Majestie : and Turberville, that at Paris he had also propos'd the 
 same to him. 
 
 3. The depositions of my Lord's witnesses were taken, to invalidate 
 the King's witnesses ; they were very slight persons, but, being 1 5 or 
 16, they tooke up all that day, and in truth they rather did my Lord 
 injury than service. 
 
 4. Came other witnesses of the Commons to corroborate the Kings, 
 some being Peeres, some Commons, with others of good qualitie, who 
 tooke off all the former day's objections, and set the King's witnesses 
 recti in Curia. 
 
 6. Sir Wm. Jones summ'd up the evidence ; to him succeeded all 
 the rest of the Managers, and then Mr. Hen. Poule made a vehement 
 oration. After this my Lord, as on all occasions, and often during the 
 trial, spoke in his owne defence, denying the charge altogether, and 
 that he had never seene Gates or Tuberville at the time and manner 
 eiffirm'd: in truth, their testimonie did little weigh with me ; Dugdale's 
 onely seem'd to press hardest, to which my Lord spake a greate while, 
 but confusedly, without any method. One thing my Lord said as to 
 Gates, which I confesse did exceedingly affect me ; that a person who 
 during his depositions should so vauntingly brag that tho' he went over 
 to the Church of Rome, yet he was never a Papist, nor of their rehgion, 
 all the time that he seem'd to apostatize from the Protestant, but only 
 as a spie ; tho' he confess'd he tooke their sacrament, worshipped 
 images, went thro' all their oathes and discipline of their proselytes, 
 swearing secrecy and to be faithfull, but with intent to come over againe 
 and betray them ; that such an hypocrite, that had so deeply prevari- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 425 
 
 cated as even to turne idolater (for so we of the Church oi England 
 term'd it), attesting God so solemnly that he was intirely theirs and 
 devoted to their interest, and consequently (as he pretended) trusted ; 
 I say that the witnesse of such a proflygate wretch should be admitted 
 against the life of a Peere, this my Lord look'd upon as a monstrous 
 thing, and such as must needs redound to the dishonour of our Reli- 
 gion and Nation. And verily I am of his Lordship's opinion ; such a 
 man's testimonie should not be taken against the life of a dog. But 
 the merit of something material which he discover'd against Coleman, 
 put him in such esteeme with the Parliament, that now, I fancy, he 
 stuck at nothing, and thought every body was to take what he said 
 for Gospel. The consideration of this and some other circumstances 
 began to stagger me ; particularly how 'twas possible that one who 
 went among the Papists on such a designe, and pretended to be in- 
 trusted with so many letters and commissions from the Pope and the 
 party, nay and deliver'd them to so many greate persons, should not 
 reserve one of them to shew, nor so much as one copy of any commis- 
 sion, which he who had such dexterity in opening letters might cer- 
 tainly have done, to the undeniable conviction of those whom he 
 accus'd : but, as I said, he gain'd credit on Coleman ; but as to others 
 whom he so madly flew upon, I am little inchn'd to believe his testi- 
 mony, he being so slight a person, so passionate, ill-bred, and of such 
 impudent behaviour ; nor is it likely that such piercing politicians as 
 the Jesuits should trust him with so high and dangerous seacrets. 
 
 7. On Tuesday I was againe at the trial, when judgment was de- 
 manded ; and after my Lord had spoken what he could in denying the 
 fact, the Managers answering the objections, the Peeres, adjourned to 
 their house, and within two houres returned againe. There was in the 
 meane time this question put to the Judges, 'whether there being but 
 one witnesse to any single crime or act, it could amount to convict a 
 man of treason.' They gave an unanimous opinion that in case of 
 treason they all were overt acts, for tho' no man should be condemn'd 
 by one witnesse for any one act, yet for several acts to the same 
 intent, it was valid, which was my Lord's case. This being past and 
 the Peeres in their seates againe, the Lord Chancellor Finch (this day 
 the Lord High Steward) removing to the woolsack next his Majesty's 
 state, after summoning the Lieutenant of the Tower to bring forth his 
 prisoner, and proclamation made for silence, demanded of every peer 
 (who were in all 86) whether William Lord Viscount Stafford were guilty 
 of the treason laid to his charge, or not guilty. Then the Peere spoken 
 to, standing up, and laying his right hand on his breast, said Guilty, or 
 Not Guilty, upon my honour, and then sate down, the Lord Steward 
 noting their suffrages as they answered upon a paper: when all had 
 done, the number of Not guilty being but 31, the Guilty 55: and then 
 after proclamation for silence againe, the Lord Steward directing his 
 
426 EXECUTION OF LORD STAFFORD. COMETS AND METEORS. 
 
 speech to the prisoner, against whom the axe was turned edgeways, 
 and not before, in aggravation of his crime, he being ennobled by the 
 King's father, and since received many favours from his present 
 Majesty, (after enlarging on his offence) deploring first his own un- 
 happinesse that he who had never condemn'd any man before, should 
 now be necessitated to begin with him ; he then pronounc'd sentence 
 of death by hanging, drawing, and quartering, according to forme, with 
 greate solemnity and dreadfull gravity, and after a short pause, told the 
 prisoner that he believ'd the Lords would intercede for the omission of 
 some circumstances of his sentence, beheading only excepted ; and 
 then breaking his white staff, the Court was dissolved. My Lord 
 Stafford during all this latter part spake but little, and only gave their 
 Lordships thanks after the sentence was pronounced ; and indeede 
 behaved himselfe modestly and as became him. 
 
 It was observ'd that all his owne relations of his name and family 
 condemn'd him, except his nephew the Earle of Arundel, son to the 
 Duke of Norfolk. And it must be acknowledg'd that the whole trial 
 was carried on with exceeding gravity: so stately and august an ap- 
 pearance I had never scene before ; for besides the innumerable specta- 
 tors of gentlemen and forraine ministers, who saw and heard all the 
 proceedings, the prisoner had the consciences of all the Commons of 
 England for his accusers, and all the Peeres to be his Judges and Jury. 
 He had likewise the assistance of what Counsel he would, to direct 
 him in his plea, who stood by him. And yet I can hardly think that 
 a person of his age and experience should engage men whom he never 
 saw before (and one of them that came to visite him as a stranger at 
 Paris) point blanq to murder the King : God onely who searches hearts 
 can discover the truth. Lord StaiTord was liot a man belov'd, especialy 
 of his own family. 
 ' 1 2. This evening looking out of my chamber window towards the 
 west, I saw a meteor of an obscure bright colour, very much in shape 
 like the blade of a sword, the rest of the skie very serene and cleare. 
 What this may portend God onely knows: but such another pheno- 
 menon I remember to have scene in 1640, aboute the Triallof the greate 
 Earle of Strafford, preceeding our bloudy Rebellion. I pray God 
 avert his judgements. We have had of late severall comets, which tho' 
 I believe appeare from naturall causes, and of themselves operate not, 
 yet I cannot despise them. They may be warnings from God, as they 
 commonly are forerunners of his animadversions. After many daies 
 and many nights of snow, cloudy and dark weather, the comet was very 
 much wasted. 
 - 17 December. My daughter in law was brought to bed of a 
 sonn christen'd Richard, 
 
 22. A solemn publicq fast that God would prevent all Popish plotts, 
 avert his judgements, and give a blessing to the proceedings of Parlia- 
 
THE DIARY OB' JOHN EVELYN. 427 
 
 ment which was no* assembl'd, and which struck at the succession 
 of the Duke of York. 
 
 29. The Viscount Stafford was beheaded on Tower-hill. 
 
 1681, 10 Feb. I was at the wedding of my nephew John Evelyn of 
 Wotton, married by the Bp. of Rochester at Westminster in Henry 
 VII. Chapell, to the daughter and heyre of Mr. Eversfield of Sussex, 
 her portion ;£8ooo. The solemnity was kept with a few friends onely 
 at Lady Bev-kford's, the lady's mother. 
 
 8 Mar. Visited and din'dat the Earle of Essex's, with whom I spent 
 most of the afternoone alone. Thence to my (yet living) godmother 
 and kinswoman Mrs. Keightley, sister to Sir Tho. Evelyn and niece to 
 my father, being now 86 yeares of age, sprightly, and in perfect health, 
 her eyes serving her as well as ever, and of a comely countenance, 
 that one would not suppose her above 50. 
 
 27. The Parliament now conven'd at Oxford. Create expectation 
 of his Royal Highness's case as to the succession, against which the 
 House was set. 
 
 An extraordinary sharp and cold spring, not yet a leafe on the 
 trees, frost and snow lying : whilst the whole nation was in the 
 greatest ferment. 
 
 1 1 April. I tooke my leave of Dr. Lloyd (now Bishop of St. Asaph) 
 at his house in Leicester Fields, now going to reside in his diocese. 
 
 12. I din'd at Mr. Brisbane's, Secretary to the Admiralty, a learned 
 and industrious person, whither came Dr. Burnet to thank- me for some 
 papers which I had contributed towards his excellent History of 
 the Reformation. 
 
 26. I din'd at Don Pietro Ronquillo's, the Spanish Ambassador, at 
 Wild House (Drury Lane), who us'd me with extraordinary civility. 
 The dinner was plentiful, halfe after the Spanish, halfe after the English 
 way. After dinner he led me into his bed-chamber, where we fell into 
 a long discourse concerning religion. Tho' he was a learned man in 
 politics, and an advocate, he was very ignorant in religion, and unable 
 to defend any point of controversy ; he was however far from being 
 fierce. At parting he earnestly wish'd me to apply humbly to the 
 Blessed Virgin to direct me, assuring me that he had known divers 
 who had ben averse from the Roman Catholic Religion, wonderfully 
 enlighten'd and convinc'd by her intercession. He importun'd me to 
 come and visite him often. 
 
 29 April. But one showre of rain all this month. 
 
 5 May. Came to dine with me Sir William Fermor of Northampton* 
 shire, and Sir Christopher Wren, his Majesty's Architect and Surveyor, 
 now building the Cathedral of St. Paul, and the Columne in memorie 
 of the Citty's conflagration, and was in hand with the building of 50 
 Parish Churches. A wonderful genius had this incomparable person. 
 
 16 May. Came my Lady Sunderland to desire that I would propose 
 
428 THE DAUGHTER OF SIR S. FOX. THE EARL OF KILDARE. 
 
 a match to Sir Stephen Fox for her sonn, Lord Spencer, to maiTy Mrs. 
 Jane, Sir Stephen's daughter. I excus'd myself all I was able, for the 
 truth is, I was afraid he would prove an extravagant man : for though 
 a youth of extraordinary parts, and had an excellent education to render 
 him a worthy man, yet his early inclinations to extravagance made me 
 apprehensive that I should not serve Sir Stephen by proposing it, like 
 a friend ; this being now his only daughter, well bred, and likely to 
 receive a large share of her father's opulence. Lord Sunderland was 
 much sunke in his estate by gaming and other prodigalities, and was 
 now no longer Secretary of State, having fallen into displeasure of 
 the King for siding with the Commons about the Succession ; but 
 which I am assur'd he did not do out of his owne inclination, or for the 
 preservation of the Protestant religion, but by mistaking the ability of 
 the party to carry it. However, so earnest and importunate was the 
 Countesse, that I did mention it to Sir Stephen, who said that it was too 
 great honour, that his daughter was very young as well as my Lord, 
 and he was resolved never to marry her without the parties mutual 
 Uking, with other objections which I neither would nor could con- 
 tradict. He desir'd me to expresse to the Countesse the greats 
 sense he had of the honour don him, that his daughter and her sonn 
 were too young, that he would do nothing without her liking, which 
 he did not think her capable of expressing judiciously till she was l6 
 or 17 yeares of age, of which she now wanted 4 yeares, and that I 
 would put it off as civilly as I could. 
 
 20 May. Our new curate preach'd, a pretty hopefull young man, 
 yet somewhat raw, newly come from coUedge, full of Latine sentences, 
 which in time will weare off. He read prayers very well. 
 
 25. There came to visite me Sir Wilham Walter and Sir John 
 Elowes ; and the next day the Earle of Kildare, a young gent, related 
 to my wife, and other company. There had scarce fallen any raine 
 since Christmas. 
 
 2 June. I went to Hampton Court, when the Surrey gentlemen 
 presented their addresses to his Majesty, whose hand I klss'd, intro- 
 duc'd by the Duke of Albemarle. 
 
 12. It still continu'd so great a drought as had never ben known in 
 England, and it was said to be universal. 
 
 14 Aug. No sermon this afternoone, which I think did not happen 
 twice in this parish these 30 years ; so gracious has God ben to it, 
 and indeede to the whole nation : God grant that we abuse not 
 this greate priviledge, either by our wantonnesse, schisme, or unfaith- 
 fulnesse, under such meanes as he has not favoured any other nation 
 under heaven besides. 
 
 23. I went to Wotton, and on the following day was invited to Mr. 
 Denzil Onslow's at his seate at Purford, where was much company and 
 such an extraordinary feast as I had hardly seene at any country gen- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 429 
 
 tleman's table. What made it more remarkable was, that there was 
 not any thing save what his estate about it did afford : as venison, 
 rabbits, hares, pheasants, partridges, pigeons, quails, poultrie, all sortes 
 of fowle in season from his owne decoy neere his house, and all sorts of 
 fresh fish. After dinner we went to see sport at the decoy, where I 
 never saw so many herons. 
 
 The seate stands on a flat, the ground pasture, rarely water'd, and ex- 
 ceedingly improv'd since Mr. Onslow bought it of Sir Robert Parkhurst, 
 who spent a faire estate. The house is timber, but commodious, and 
 with one ample dining-roome, the hall adorn'd with paintings of fowle 
 and huntings, &c. the work of Mr. Barlow, who is excellent in this 
 kind from the life '. 
 
 30. From Wotton I went to see Mr. Hussey (at Sutton in Shere), 
 who has a very pretty seate well water'd, neere my brother's. He is 
 the neatest husband for curious ordering his domestic and field accom- 
 modations, and what pertains to husbandry, that I have ever seene, as 
 to his granaries, tacklings, tooles, and utensills, ploughs, carts, stables, 
 wood-piles, wood-house, even to hen-roosts and hog-troughs. Methought 
 I saw old Cato or Varro in him ; all substantial, all in exact order. 
 The sole inconvenience he lies under, is the greate quantity of sand which 
 the streame brings along with it, and fills his canals and receptacles 
 for fish too soone. The rest of my time of stay at Wotton was spent 
 in walking about the grounds and goodly woods, where I have in my 
 youth so often entertain'd my solitude : and so on the 2d of Sept. I 
 once more returned to my home. 
 
 6 September. Died my pretty grand-child, and was interr'd on 
 the 8th [at Deptford.] 
 
 14. Din'd with Sir Stephen Fox, who propos'd to me the purchasing 
 of Chelsey College, which his Majesty had some time since given to our 
 Society, and would now purchase it againe to build an Hospital or 
 Infirmary for Souldiers there, in which he desired my assistance as one 
 of the Council of the R. Society. 
 
 15. I had another opportunity of visiting his Majesty's private 
 Library at White-hall. 
 
 To Sir Sam. Moreland's, to see his house and mechanics'. 
 
 17. I went with Monsieur Faubert about taking the Countesse of 
 Bristol's house for an academie, he being lately come from Paris for 
 his religion, and resolving to settle here •*. 
 
 ^ This house has been pulled down many years. The estate Is the property of the E^-rof 
 Onslow. i8r6. 
 
 2 In Lambeth, at what is now Vauxhall, where Sir Sam. Moreland had fitted up a house, 
 ind built a large room, which he furnished in a sumptuous manner, and constructed in his 
 v;i«den some fountains. He was much in favour with the King for services he had rendered 
 to him whilst abroad, and this is probably the place which it is said the King and his Ladies 
 used to cross the water to go to. Hist. Surrey, III. 489, 490, 491. 
 
 3 He had a riding house between Swallow-street and King-street ; the passage by it between 
 those streets, is still (or lately was) called by his name {j8i6.) 
 
430 DR. HOOPER. RUSSIAN AMBASSADOR AT COURT. 
 
 23. I went to see Sir Tho. Bond's fine house and garden at Peckham. 
 2 Oct. I went to Camerwell, where that good man Dr. Par (late 
 
 chaplain to Abp. Usher) preach'd on 16 Acts, 30. 
 
 II. I went to Fulham to visit the Bishop of London, in whose gar- 
 den I first saw the Sedum arborescens in flower, which was exceedingly 
 beautifuU. 
 
 5 Nov. Dr. Hooper preach'd on 12 Mark, 16, 17, before the King, 
 of the usurpation of the Church of Rome. This is one of the first rank 
 of pulpit men in the nation. 
 
 15. I din'd with the Earle of Essex, who after dinner in his study, 
 where we were alone, related to me how much he had ben scandahz'd 
 and injur'd in the report of his being privy to the marriage of his Lady's 
 niece, the rich young widow of the late Lord Ogle, sole daughter of the 
 E. of Northumberland ; shewing me a letter of Mr. Thynn's excusing 
 himself for not communicating his marriage to his Lordship. He ac- 
 quainted me also with the whole story of that unfortunate lady being 
 betray'd by her grandmother the Countesse of Northumberland, and 
 Col. Bret, for money ; and that tho', upon the importunity of the Duke 
 of Monmouth, he had deliver'd to the grandmother a particular of the 
 jointure which Mr. Thynn pretended he would settle on t'he lady, yet 
 he totally discourag'd the proceeding, as by no means a competent 
 match for one that both by birth and fortune might have pretended to 
 the greatest prince in Christendom ; that he also propos'd the Earle of 
 Kingston, or the Lord Cranburn, but was by no means for Mr. Thynn. 
 
 19. I din'd with my worthy friend Mr. Erskin, Master of fhe Char- 
 terhouse, uncle to the Dutchesse of Monmouth ; a wise and learned 
 gentleman, fitter to have ben a privy councillor and minister of state 
 than to have been laied aside. 
 
 24. I was at the audience of the Russia Ambassador before both their 
 Majesties in the Banquetting-house. The presents were carried before 
 him, held up by his followers in two ranks before the King's State, and 
 consisted of tapissry (one suite of which was doubtless brought from 
 France as being of that fabrick, the Ambassador having pass'd thro' 
 that Kingdom as he came out of Spain), a large Persian carpet, furs of 
 sable and ermine, &c. but nothing was so splendid and exotic as the 
 Ambassador who came soone after the King's Restauration. This pre- 
 sent Ambassador was exceedingly offended that his ccach was not per- 
 mitted to come into the Court, till being told that no King's Ambassador 
 did, he was pacified, yet requiring an attestation of it under the hand 
 of Sir Cha. Cotterell, the Master of the Ceremonies ; being, it seems, 
 afraid he should offend his Master if he omitted the least punctilio. 
 'Twas reported he condemned his sonn to loose his head for shaving 
 off his beard, and putting himselfe in the French mode at Paris, and 
 that he would have executed it had not the French King interceded— 
 but qu : of this. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 43* 
 
 30 Nov. Sir Christopher Wren chosen President [of the Royal 
 Society], Mr. Austine, Secretary, witli Dr. Plot, the ingenious author of 
 History of Oxfordshire. There was a most illustrious appearance. 
 
 1682. II Jan. I saw the audience of the Morocco Ambassadorl, 
 his retinue not numerous. He was receiv'd in the Banquetting-house, 
 both their Majesties being present. He came up to the Throne with- 
 out making any sort of reverence, not bowing his head or body. He 
 spake by a renegado Englishman, for whose safe return there was 
 a promise. They were all clad in the Moorish habite, cassocks of 
 colour'd cloth, or silk, with buttons and loopes, over this an alhaga, or 
 white woollen mantle, so large as to wrap both head and body, a shash 
 or small turban, naked legg'd and arm'd, but with leather socks like the 
 Turks, a rich scymeter, and large calico sleeved shirts. The Ambassa- 
 dor had a string of pearls oddly woven in his turban. I fancy the old 
 Roman habite was little different as to the mantle and naked limbs. 
 The Ambassador was an handsome person, well featur'd, of a wise 
 looke, subtill, and extreamely civile. Their presents were lions and 
 estridges (ostriches), &c. ; their errand about a peace at Tangier. But 
 the concourse and tumult of the people was intolerable, so as the officers 
 could keepe no order, which these strangers were astonish'd at at first, 
 there being nothing so regular, exact, and perform'd with such silence, 
 as is on all these public occasions of their country, and indeede over all 
 the Turkish dominions. 
 
 14. Din'd at the Bp. of Rochester's, at the Abby, it being his mar- 
 riage day, after twenty-four yeares. He related to me how he had ben 
 treated by Sir William Temple, foreseeing that he might be a delegate 
 in the conceme of my Lady Ogle, now likely to come in controversy 
 upon her marriage with Mr. Thynn ; also how earnestly the late E. of 
 Danby, Lord Treasurer, sought his friendship, and what plaine and 
 sincere advice he gave him from time to time about his miscarriages 
 and partialities ; particularly his outing Sir John Duncomb from being 
 Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Sir Ste. Fox, above all, from Pay- 
 master of the Armie. The Treasurer's excuse and reason was, that 
 Fox's credit was so over-greate with the bankers and monied men, that 
 he could procure none but by his meanes ; 'for that reason,' replied the 
 Bishop, ' I would have made him my friend. Sir Stephen being a person 
 both honest and of credit.' He told him likewise of his stateliness and 
 difficulty of accesse, and several! other miscarriages, and which indeede 
 made him hated. 
 
 24, To the Royall Society, where at the Council we pass'd a new law 
 for the more accurate consideration of candidates, as whether they 
 would really be useful ; also concerning the honorary members, that 
 none should be admitted but by diploma. 
 
 1 Named Hamet. There are different prints of him ; one of which is a large and fine one 
 by Robert. 
 
432 DUTCHESS OF PORTSMOUTH. ERECTION OF GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 
 
 This evening I was at the entertainement of the Morocco Ambas- 
 sador at the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's glorious apartments at White- 
 hall, where was a greate banquet of sweetemeates and musiq, but at 
 which both the Ambassador and his retinue behav'd themselves with 
 extraordinary moderation and modesty, tho' plac'd about a long table 
 a lady betweene two moores, and amongst these were the King's natural 
 children, viz. Lady Lichfield and Sussex, the Dutchess of Portsmouth, 
 Nelly, &c. concubines, and cattell of that sort, as splendid as Jewells 
 and excesse of bravery could make them. The Moores neither ad- 
 miring nor seeming to regard any thing, furniture or the like, with any 
 earnestnesse, and but decently tasting of the banquet. They dranke a 
 little milk and water, but not a drop of wine ; they also dranke of a 
 sorbet and jacolatt ; did not looke about, or stare on the ladies, or ex- 
 presse the least suprize, but with a courtly negligence in pace, counte- 
 nance, and whole behaviour, answering only to such questions as were 
 ask'd with a greate deale of wit and gallantrie, and so gravely tooke 
 leave with this compliment, ' That God would blesse the Dutchess of 
 Portsmouth and the Prince her sonn, meaning the little Duke of Rich- 
 mond.' The King came in at the latter end, just as the Ambassador 
 was going away. In this manner was this slave (for he was no more 
 at home) entertain'd by most of the nobility in towne, and went often 
 to Hide Park on horseback, where he and his retinue shew'd their ex- 
 traordinary activity in horsemanship, and flinging and catching their 
 launces at fuU speede ; they rid very short, aud could stand upright at 
 full speede, managing their spears with incredible agility. He went 
 sometimes to the theatres, where upon any foolish or fantastical action, 
 he could not forbear laughing, but he endeavour'd to hide it with ex- 
 traordinary modesty and gravity. In a word, the Russian Ambassador, 
 still at Court, behav'd himselfe like a clowne, compar'd to this civil 
 heathen. 
 
 27. This evening Sir Ste. Fox acquainted me againe with his 
 Majestys resolution of proceeding in the erection of a Royal Hospital 
 for emerited souldiers on that spot of ground which the Royal Society 
 had sold to his Majesty for 1300/. and that he would settle 5000/. 
 ^er ann. on it, and build to the value of 20,000/. for the reliefe 
 and reception of 4 companies, viz. 400 men to be as in a 
 coUedge or monasterie. I was therefore desir'd by Sir Stephen 
 (who had not onely the whole managing of this, but was, as 
 I perceiv'd, himselfe to be a grand benefactor, as well it became him 
 who had gotten so vast an estate by the souldiers) to assist him, 
 and consult what method to cast it in, as to the government. So in 
 his study we arranged the governor, chaplaine, steward, housekeeper, 
 chirurgeon, cook, butler, gardener, porter, and other officers, with their 
 several salaries and entertainments. I would needes have a Library 
 and mention'd several bookes, si.nce some souldiers might possibly be 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 433 
 
 Studious when fhey were at leisure to recollect. Thus we made the 
 first calculations, and set downe our thoughts to be consider'd and di- 
 gested better, to shew his Majesty and the Archbishop. He also en- 
 gag'd me to consider of what laws and orders were fit for the 
 government, which was to be in every respect as strict as in any reli- 
 gious convent. 
 
 After supper came in the famous treble Mr. Abel, newly return'd 
 from Italy ; I never heard a more excellent voice ; one would have 
 sworn it had ben a woman's, it was so high, and so well and skillfully 
 manag'd, being accompanied by Signer Francesco on the harpsichord. 
 
 28. Mr. Pepys, late Secretary to the Admiralty, shew'd me a large 
 folio containing the whole mechanic part and art of building royal 
 ships and men of warr, made by Sir Anth. Deane, being so accurate 
 a piece from the very keele to the lead block, rigging, gunns, victualling, 
 manning, and even to every individual pin and naile, in a method so 
 astonishing and curious, with the draught, both geometrical and in 
 perspective, and severall sections, that I do not think the world can 
 shew the like. I esteeme this booke as an extraordinary Jewell. 
 
 7 Feb. My daughter Mary began to learn musick of Signer Bartho- 
 lomeo, and dauncing of Monsieur Isaac, reputed the best masters. 
 
 Having had several violent fits of an ague, recourse was had to 
 bathing my legs in milk up to the knees, made as hot as I could en- 
 dure it ; and sitting so in it in a deepe churn or vessell cover'd with 
 blankets, and drinking carduus posset, then going to bed and sweating, 
 I n»t onely miss'd that expected fit, but had no more, only continued 
 weake, that I could not go to church 'till Ash Wednesday, which I had 
 not missed, I think, so long in twenty yeares, so gracious had God 
 beene to me. 
 
 After this warning and admonition I now began to looke over and 
 methodize all my writings, accompts, letters, papers ; inventoried the 
 goods, and other articles of the house, and put things into the best 
 order I could, and made my will ; that now growing in yeares, I might 
 have none of these secular things and concerns to distract me when it 
 should please Almighty God to call me from this transitory life. With 
 this I prepar'd some special meditations and devotions for the time of 
 sicknesse. The Lord Jesus grant them to be salutary for my poore 
 soul in that day, that I may obtain mercy and acceptance ! 
 
 I March. My second grandchild was born, and christen'd the next 
 day by our Viccar at Sayes Court, by the name of John '. I beseeche 
 God to bless him. 
 
 2. Ash Wednesday. I went to church ; our Viccar preached on 
 Proverbs, shewing what care and vigilence was required for the keep- 
 ing of the heart upright. The holy Communion followed, on which 
 I gave God thanks for his gracious dealing with me in my late sick- 
 
 I Who became his successor, and was created a baronet in 1713. 
 
 28 
 
434 MR. PEPYS. EXECUTION OF VRATS. THE ROYAL SOCIETY. 
 
 nesse, and affording me this blessed opportunity of praising him in 
 Ihe Congregation, and receiving the cup of salvation with new and 
 serious resolutions. 
 
 Came to see and congratulate my recovery, Sir John Lowther, Mr. 
 Herbert, Mr. Pepys, Sir Anth: Deane, and Mr. Hill. 
 
 lo. This day was executed Coll. Vrats, and some of his accomplices, 
 for the execrable murder of Mr. Thynn ', set on by the principal Ko- 
 nigsmark ; he went to execution like an undaunted hero, as one that 
 had done a friendly office for that base coward C. Koningsmark, who 
 had hopes to marry his widow the rich Lady Ogle, and was acquitted 
 by a corrupt jury, and so got away. Vrats told a friend of mine who 
 accompanied him to the gallows, and gave him some advice, that he 
 did not value dying of a rush, and hop'd and believ'd God would deale 
 with him like a gentleman. Never man went so unconcern'd for his 
 sad fate. 
 
 24. I went to see the corpse of that obstinate creature Coll. Vrats, 
 the King permitting that his body should be transported to his owne 
 country, he being of a good family, and one of the first embalmed by 
 a particular art invented by one William Russell, a coffin maker, which 
 preserv'd the body without disbowelling, or to appearance using any 
 bituminous matter. The flesh was florid, soft, and full, as if the per- 
 son were onely sleeping. He had now ben dead neere 15 dales, and 
 lay expos'd in a very rich coffin lin'd with lead, too magnificent for 
 so daring and horrid a murderer. 
 
 At the meeting of R. Society were exhibited some pieces of amber 
 sent by the Duke of Brandenburg, in one of which was a spider, in 
 another a gnat, both very intire. There was a discourse of the tinge- 
 ing of glass, especially with red, and the difficulty of finding any red 
 colour effectual to penetrate glass, among the glass-painters ; that the 
 most diaphonous, as blue, yellow, &c. did not enter into the substance 
 of what was ordinarily painted, more than very shallow, unless in- 
 corporated in the mettal itselfe, other reds and whites not at all beyond 
 the superfices. 
 
 5 April. To the R. Society, where at a Council was regulated what 
 collections should be published monthly, as formerly the transactions, 
 which had of late ben discontinu'd, but were now much call'd for by 
 the curious abroad and at home. 
 
 12. I went this afternoone with severall of the Royal Society to a 
 supper which was all dress'd, both fish and flesh, in Monsieur Papin's 
 Digestors, by which the hardest bones of beefe itselfe, and mutton, were 
 made as soft as cheese, without water or other liquor, and with lesse 
 than 8 ounces of coales, producing an incredible quantity of gravy ; and 
 for close of all a jelly made of the bones of beef, the best for clearness 
 
 1 He lies buried in Westminster Abbey ; the manner of his death being represented on his 
 monument. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 435 
 
 and good relish, and the most delicious that I had ever seene or tasted, 
 We eat pike and other fish bones, and all without impediment ; but 
 nothing exceeded the pigeons, which tasted just as if bak'd in a pie, all 
 these being stew'd in their own juice, without any addition of water 
 save what swam about the Digester, as in babieo j the natural juice oi 
 all these provisions acting on the grosser substances, reduc'd the hard- 
 est bones to tendernesse ; but it is best descanted with more particulars 
 for extracting tinctures, preserving and stewing fruite, and saving fuel, 
 in Dr. Papin's booke, publish'd and dedicated to our Society, of which 
 he is a member. He is since gone to Venice with the late Resident 
 here (and also a Member of our Society), who carried this excellent 
 mechanic, philosopher, and physician, to set up a philosophical meet- 
 ing in that citty. This philosophical supper caus'd much mirth amongst 
 us, and exceedingly pleas'd all the company. I sent a glass of the 
 jelley to my wife, to the reproch of all that the ladies ever made of the 
 best hartshorn. 
 
 April. The season was unusually wet, with rain and thunder. 
 
 25 May. I was desir'd by Sir Ste. Fox and Sir Christopher Wren 
 to accompany them to Lambeth, with the plot and designe of the Col- 
 lege to be built at Chelsey, to have the Abp.'s approbation. It was a 
 quadrangle of 200 foote square after the dimensions of the larger qua- 
 drangle at Christ Church, Oxford, for the accomodation of 440 persons, 
 with governor and officers. This was agreed on. 
 
 The Duke and Dutchesse of York were just now come to London 
 after his escape and shipwreck as he went by sea for Scotland. 
 
 28. At the Rolls Chapell preached the famous Dr. Burnet on J 
 Peter i. 10. describing excellently well what was meant by Election , 
 •viz. not the effect of any irreversable decree, but so call'd because they 
 embraced the Gospel readily, by which they became elect or precious 
 to God. It would be very needlesse to make our calling and election 
 sure, were they irreversable and what the rigid Presbyterians pretends 
 In the afternoone to St. Lawrence's church, a new and cheerful pile. 
 
 29. I gave notice to the Bp. of Rochester of what Maimburg had' 
 publish'd about the motives of the late Dutchesse of York's perversion, 
 in his Historie of Calvinism ; and did myselfe write to the Bp. of Win- 
 Chester (Dr. Morley) about it, who being concern'd in it, I urged him 
 to set forth his vindication. 
 
 31. The Morocco Ambassador being admitted an honorary mem 
 ber of the R. Society, and subscribing his name and titles in Arabic, I 
 was deputed by the Council to go and compliment him. 
 
 19 June. The Bantame', or East India Ambassadors (at this time 
 we had in London the Russian, Moroccan, and Indian Ambassadors,) 
 
 1 The name of one was Pungearon Nia Para, of the other Kaia Nebbe, or Keay Nabee, 
 There are different prints of both, representing them exactly as here (iescribed. There were 
 others in the embassy, but probably of infeiior degree. 
 
436 EAST INDIAN AMBASSADORS. MR. BOHUN, OF LEA. 
 
 being invited to dine at Lord Geo. Berkeley's (now Earl), I went to the 
 entertainment to contemplate the exotic guests. They were both very 
 hard-favour'd and much resembling in countenance some sort of mon- 
 keys. We eate at two tables, the Ambassadors and interpreter by 
 themselves. Their garments were rich Indian silks, flower'd with gold, 
 viz. a close waistcoate to their knees, drawers, naked legs, and on their 
 heads capps made like fruit-baskets. They wore poison'd daggers at 
 their bosoms, the hafts carv'd with some ugly serpents or devils heads, 
 exceeding keene, and of Damasco metal They wore no sword. The 
 second Ambassador (sent it seemes to succeed in case the first should 
 die by the way in so tedious a journey), having ben at Mecca, wore a 
 Turkish or Arab shash, a little part of the linnen hanging downe behinde 
 his neck, with some other difference of habite, and was halfe a Negro, 
 bare legg'd and naked feete, and deem'd a very holy man. They sate 
 cross-legg'd like Turks, and sometimes in the posture of apes and 
 monkeys ; their nailes and teeth black as jet, and shining, which being 
 the effect, as to their teeth, of perpetual^r chewing betel to preserve 
 them from the tooth-ache, much raging in their country, is esteem'd 
 beautifull. The first Ambassador was of an olive hue, a flat face, 
 narrow eyes, squat nose, and Moorish lips, no haire appeared ; they 
 wore several rings of silver, gold, and copper on their fingers, which 
 was a token of knighthood or nobility. They were of Java Major, 
 whose Princes have ben turn'd Mahometans not above 50 yeares since, 
 the inhabitants are still pagans and idolators. They seem'd of a dull 
 and heavy constitution, not wondering at any thing they saw, but ex- 
 ceedingly astonished how our Law gave us property in our estates, and 
 so thinking we were all Kings, for they could not be made to compre- 
 hend how subjects could possess anything but at the pleasure of their 
 Prince, they being all slaves ; they were pleas'd with the notion, and 
 admir'd our happinesse. They were very sober, and I believe subtle 
 in their way. Their meate was cook'd, carried up, and they attended 
 by several fat slaves, who had no covering save drawers, which appearVl 
 very uncouth and loathsome. They eate their pilaw and other spoone. 
 iieate without spoones, taking up their pottage in the hollow of their 
 fingers, and very dextrously flung it into their mouthes without spilling 
 a drop. 
 
 17 July. Came to dine with me the Duke of Grafton and the young 
 Earle of Ossorie, son to my most deare deceas'd friend. 
 
 30. Went to visit our good neighbour Mr. Bohun, (Lea, Kent), 
 whose whole house is a cabinet of all elegancies, especially Indian ; in 
 fhe hall are contrivances of Japan skreens instead of wainscot ; and 
 there is an excellent pendule clock inclos'd in the curious flower-work 
 of Mr. Gibbons in the middle of the vestibule. The landskips of the 
 skreens represent the manner ?f living, and country of the Chinese. 
 But above all, his lady's cabinet is adorn'd on the fret, cieling, and 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 437 
 
 chimney-piece, with Mr. Gibbons's best carving. There are also some 
 of Streeter's best paintings, and many rich curiosities of gold and silver 
 as growing in the mines. The gardens are exactly kept, and the whole 
 place very agreeable and well watered. The owners are good neigh- 
 bours, and Mr. Bohun has also built and endow'd an hospital for eight 
 poor people, with a pretty chapell, and every necessarie accommodation. 
 
 I Aug. To the Bp. of London at Fulham, to review the additions 
 which Mr. Marshall had made to his curious booke of flowers in minia- 
 ture, and collection of insects. 
 
 4. With Sir Stephen Fox, to survey the foundations of the Royal 
 Hospital begun at Chelsey. 
 
 9. The Council of the R. Society had it recommended to them to be 
 trustees and visitors, or supervisors, of the Academy which Monsieur 
 Faubert did hope to procure to be built by subscription of worthy gen- 
 tlemen and noblemen, for the education of youth, and to lessen the vast 
 expence the Nation is at yearly by sending children into France to be 
 taught military exercises. We thought good to give him all the encou- 
 ragement our recommendation could procure. 
 
 ] J. Came to visite me Dr. Rogers, an acquaintance of mine long 
 since at Padoa. He was then Consul of the English Nation, and stu- 
 dent in that Universitie, where he proceeded Dr. in Physic ; presenting 
 me now with the Latine oration he lately made upon the famous Dr, 
 Harvey's anniversarie in the Coll. of Physicians at London. 
 
 20. This night I saw another comet, neere Cancer, very bright, but 
 the stream not so long as the former. 
 
 29. Supp'd at Lord Clarendon's with Lord Hyde his brother, now 
 the great favorite, who invited himselfe to dine at my house on the 
 Tuesday following. 
 
 30 Oct. Being my birth-day, and I now entering my greate climac- 
 terical of 63, after serious recollections of the yeares past, giving Al- 
 mighty God thanks for all his mercifull preservations and forbearance, 
 begging pardon for my sinns and unworthinesse, and his blessing and 
 mercy -on me the yeare entering, I went with my Lady Fox to survey 
 her building, and give some directions for the garden at Chiswick ; the 
 architect is Mr. May ; somewhat heavy and thick, and not so well 
 understood ; the garden much too narrow, the place without water, 
 neere an highway, and neere another greate house of my Lord Burling- 
 ton, little land about it, so that I wonder at the expence ; but women 
 will have their will. 
 
 25. I was invited to dine with Mons. Lionberg, the Swedish Resi- 
 dent, who made a magnificent entertainment, it being the birth-day of 
 his King. There dined the Duke of Albemarle, D. of Hamilton, Earle 
 of Bathe, E. of Aylesbury, Lord Arran, Lord Castlehaven, the sonn of 
 him who was executed 50 yeares before, and several greate persons. 
 I was exceeding afraide of drinking (it being a Dutch feast), but the 
 
438 AT COURT. EARL OF ROCHESTER. DEATH OF MY FATHER-IN-LAW. 
 
 Duke of Albemarle being that night to waite on his Majestie, excesse 
 was prohibited ; and to prevent all, I stole away and left the company 
 as soone as we rose from table. 
 
 28. I went to the Council of the Royal Society for the auditing the 
 last yeares accompt, where I was surpriz'd with a fainting fit that for 
 a time tooke away my sight, but God being mercifuU to me, I recovered 
 it after a short repose. 
 
 30 Nov. I was exceedingly indanger'd and importun'd to stand the 
 election [for President of the R. S.] having so many voices, but by favor 
 of my friends, and regard of my remote dwelling, and now frequent 
 infirmities, I desir'd their suffrages might be transferr'd to Sir John 
 Hoskins, one of the Masters of Chancery ; a most learned virtuoso as 
 well as lawyer, who accordingly was elected. 
 
 7 Dec. Went to congratulate Lord Hyde (the greate favorite), 
 newly made Earle of Rochester,! and lately marrying his eldest daughter 
 to the Earle of Ossorie. 
 
 18. I sold my East India adventure of ;^.25o principal for ^.750 to 
 the Royal Society, after I had been in that company 25 years, being 
 extraordinary advantageous, by the blessing of God. 
 
 23 Jan. 1683. Sir Francis North, sonn to the Lord North, and Lord 
 Cheife Justice, being made Lord Keeper on the death of the Earle of 
 Nottingham, the Lord Chancellor, I went to congratulate him. He is 
 a most knowing, learned, and ingenious man, and besides an excellent 
 person, of an ingenious and sweete disposition, very skilfuU in music, 
 painting, the new philosophy, and politer studies. 
 
 29. Supp'd at Sir Jos. Williamson's, where was a select companie 
 of our Society, Sir William Petty, Dr. Gale (that learned schole-master 
 of St. Paul's), Dr. Whistler, Mr. Hill, &c. The conversation was phy- 
 losophicall and cheerfuU, on divers considerable questions proposed ; 
 as of the hereditary succession of the Roman Emperors ; the Pica 
 mentioned in the Preface to our Common Prayer, which signifies onely 
 the Greeke Kalendarium. These were mixed with lighter subjects. 
 
 2 Feb. I made my court at St. James's, when I saw the Sea Charts 
 of Capt. Collins, which that industrious man now brought to shew the 
 Duke, having taken all the coastings from the mouth of the Thames, 
 as far as Wales, and exactly measuring every creeke, island, rock, 
 soundings, harbors, sands, and tides, intending next Spring to proceed 
 till he had finish'd the whole iland, and that measured by chains and 
 other instruments. A most exact and useful! undertaking. He 
 affirm'd, that of all the mapps put out since, there are none extant 
 so true as those of Jo. Norden, who gave us the first in Qu. Elizabeth's 
 time ; all since him are erroneous. 
 
 12. This morning I receiv'd the newes of the death of my father- 
 in-law, Sir Richard Browne, Knt. and Bart, who died at my house at 
 
 J Laurence, second son of the Chancellor. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 439 
 
 Sayes Court this day at lo in the morning, after he had labour'd under 
 the gowt and dropsie for neere 6 moneths, in the 78th yeare of his age. 
 The funerall was solemniz'd on the 19th at Deptford, with as much 
 decency as the dignity of the person, and our relation to him, requir'd. 
 There being invited the Bp. of Rochester, severall noblemen, knights, 
 and all the fraternity of the Trinity Companie, of which he had ben 
 Master, and others of the country. The Vicar preach'd a short but 
 proper discourse on 39 Psalm, 10, on the frailty of our mortal condi- 
 tion, concluding with an ample and well-deserv'd eulogie on the defunct, 
 relating to his honourable birth and ancestors, education, learning in 
 Greeke and Latine, modern languages, travels, publiq employments, 
 signal loyalty, character abroad, and particularly the honor of support- 
 ing the Church of England in its public worship during its persecution 
 by the late Rebells usurpation and regicide, by the suffrages of divers 
 Bishops, Doctors of the Church, and others, who found such an asylum 
 in his house and family at Paris, that in their disputes with the Papists 
 (then triumphing over it as utterly lost) they us'd to argue for its visi- 
 bility and existence from Sir R. Browne's chapell and assembly there. 
 Then he spake of his greate and lo3fal sufferings during 13 yeares exile 
 with his present Majestie, his returne with him in the signall yeare 1660 ; 
 his honorable employment at home, his timely recesse to recollect him- 
 selfe, his greate age, infirmities, and death. He gave to the Trinity 
 Corporation that land in Deptford on which are built those alms-houses 
 for 24 widows of emerited seamen. He was borne the famous yeare of 
 the Gunpowder Treason, in 1605, and being the last [male] of his 
 family, left ray wife, his onely daughter, heire. His grandfather Sir 
 Richard Browne was the greate instrument under the greate Earl of 
 Leicester (favorite to Queene Eliz.) in his government of the Nether- 
 lands. He was Master of the Household to King James, and Cofferer ; 
 I think was the first who regulated the compositions thro' England for 
 the King's household provisions, progresses ^, &c. which was so high a 
 service, and so grateful! to the whole nation, that he had acknowledg- 
 ments and publiq thanks sent him from all the Counties ; he died by 
 the rupture of a veine in a vehement speech he made about the com- 
 positions in a Parliament of King James. By his mother's side he was 
 k Gunson, Treasurer of the Navy in the reignes of Hen. 8, Qu. Mary, 
 and Qu. Eliz., and as by his large pedigree appeares, related to divers 
 of the English nobility. Thus ended this honorable person, after so 
 many changes and tossings to and fro, in the same house where he was 
 borne. ' Lord teach us so to number our days that we may apply our 
 hearts to wisdom !' 
 By a special clause in his will he order'd that his body should be 
 
 1 The different Counties were to find provisions of different sorts, which were collected by 
 officers called purveyors whose extortions often excited the attention of Parliament. For » 
 particular account of their practices, see Archaeologia, vol. HI. p. 349. 
 
44° BURIAL IN CHURCHES. SIR THO. MILLINGTON. 
 
 buried in the Church-yard under the South East window of the Chancel, 
 adjoining to the burying places of his ancestors, since they came out of 
 Essex to Sayes Court, he being much offended at the novel costome ol 
 burying every one within the body of the Church and Chancel, that 
 being a favour heretofore granted only to martyrs and greate persons ; 
 this excesse of making Churches Charnel-houses being of ill and irre- 
 verend example, and prejudicial to the health of the living, besides the 
 continual disturbance of the pavement and seates, and severall other 
 indecencies. Dr. Hall, the pious Bishop of Norwich, would also be so 
 interr'd ', as may be read in his Testament. 
 
 16 March. I went to see Sir Josiah Child's prodigious cost in plant- 
 ing walnut trees about his seate ', and making fish-ponds, many miles 
 in circuit, in Epping Forest, in a barren spot, as oftentimes these sud- 
 dainly monied men for the most part seate themselves. He, from a 
 merchant's apprentice, and management of the East India Company's 
 stock, being ariv'd to an estate ('tis said) of ^200,000 ; and lately 
 married his daughter to the eldest sonn of the Duke of Beaufort, late 
 Marques of Worcester, with ;i{[5o,ooo portional present, and various 
 expectations. 
 
 I din'd at Mr. Houblon's^, a rich and gentile French merchant, who 
 was building a house in the Forest, neare Sir J. Child's, in a place 
 where the late Earle of Norwich dwelt some time, and which came from 
 his lady the widow of Mr. Baker. It will be a pretty villa, about 5 
 miles from White-chapell. 
 
 18 March. I went to hear Dr. Horneck preach at the Savoy Church 
 on 2 Phil. 5. He was a German borne, a most pathetic preacher, a 
 person of a Saint-like life, and hath written an excellent treatise of 
 Consideration '. 
 
 20. Din'd at Dr. Whistler's at the Physicians Colledge, with Sir 
 Tho. Millington, both learned men ; Dr. W. the most facetious man in 
 nature, and now Censor of the College. I was here consulted where 
 they should build their library ; 'tis pity this Colledge is built so neere 
 New-gate Prison, and in so obscure an hole, a fault in placeing most of 
 our publiq buildings and Churches in the Citty, thro' the avarice of 
 some few men, and his Majesty not over-ruling it when it was in his 
 power after the dreadfuU conflagration. 
 
 21. Dr. Tenison preach'd at White-hall on i Cor. 6. 12 ; I esteeme 
 him to be one of the most profitable preachers in the Church of England 
 being also of a most holy conversation, very learned and ingenious. 
 
 1 As was afterwards, at Fulham, Dr. Compton, Bishop of London, who used to say 'Th« 
 Churchyard for the dead, the Church for the Uving.' 
 
 Where that elegant mansion, Wanstead House, now stands. 
 3 The family were eminent merchants in the time of Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 The full title is, 'The great Law of Consideration, or a Discourse wherein the nature, use 
 fulness, and absolute necessity of Consideration, in order to a truly serious and religious liffc 
 an bid open : it went through several editions. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 441 
 
 The paines he takes and care of his parish will, I feare, weare him 
 out, which would be an inexpressible losse.^ 
 
 24. I went to heare Dr. Charleton's lecture on the heart in the 
 Anatomie Theater at the Physicians CoUedge. 
 
 30. I went to London in order to my passing the following weeke, 
 for the celebration of the Easter now approaching, there being in the 
 Holy Weeke so many eminent preachers officiating at the Court and 
 other places. 
 
 6 April. Good Friday. There was in the afternoone, according to 
 costome, a Sermon before the King at White-hall ; Dr. Sprat preached 
 for the Bp. of Rochester. 
 
 17. I was at the launching of the last of the 30 ships order'd to be 
 new built by Act of Parliament, named the Neptune, a second rate, one 
 of the goodliest vessells of the whole navy, built by my kind neighbour 
 young Mr. Shish, his Majesty's master shipwright of this dock. 
 
 I May. I went to Blackheath to see the new faire, being the first, 
 procured by the Lord Dartmouth. This was the first day, pretended 
 for the sale of cattle, but I think in truth to enrich the new tavern at 
 the bowUng greene, erected by Snape,' his Majesty's farrier, a man full 
 of projects. There appeared nothing but an innumerable assembly of 
 drinking people from London, pedlars, &c. and I suppose it too neere 
 London to be of any greate use to the country. 
 
 March was unusually hot and dry, and all April excessively wet. 
 
 I planted all the out limites of the garden and long walks with holly.' 
 
 9. Din'd at Sir Gabriel Sylvius's, and thence to visite the Duke of 
 Norfolck, to ask whether he would part with any of his Cartoons and 
 other drawings of Raphael and the greate masters ; he told me if he 
 might sell them altogether, he would, but that the late Sir Peter Lely 
 (our famous painter) had gotten some of his best. The person who 
 desired me to treate for them was Vander Douse, grandson to that 
 greate scholar, contemporary and friend of Joseph Scaliger. 
 
 16. Came to dinner and visite Sir Richard Anderson of Pendly and 
 his Lady, with whom I went to London. 
 
 June 8. On my return home from the R. Society, I found Mr. Wil- 
 braham, a young gent, of Cheshire. 
 
 II. The Lord Dartmouth was elected Master of the Trinity House, 
 sonn to Geo. Legg, late Master of the Ordnance, and one of the 
 groomes of the bedchamber ; a greate favorite of the Duke's, an active 
 and understanding gentleman in sea affairs. 
 
 1 Dr. Thomas Tenison succeeded Tillotson in the metropolitical see of Canterbury, having 
 been before Vicar of St. Martin's in the Fields and Bishop of Lincoln. He lived to a very 
 great age. 
 
 2 Mr. Granger mentions a print of this person by White, and says he was father of Dc. 
 Snape of Eton : one of this family has been serjeant-farrier to the King for 300 years. 
 
 8 400 feet in length, 9 feet high, 5 in diameter, in my now ruined garden, thanks to the Czai 
 of Muscovy. Sylva, Book II. chap. vL 
 
442 WINDSOR, ST. GEORGE'S HALL. MR. DRYDEN THE POET. 
 
 13. To our Society, where we received the Count de Zinzendorp, 
 Ambassador from tlie Duke of Saxonie, a very fine young man : we 
 shew'd him divers experiments on the magnet, on which subject the 
 Society were upon. 
 
 16. I went to Windsor, dining by the way a' Chesewick (Chiswick), 
 at Sir Stephen Fox's, where I found Sir Robert Howard (that universal 
 pretender), and Signer Verrio, who brought his draught and designs 
 for the painting of the staire-case of Sir Stephen's new house. 
 
 That which was new at Windsor since I was last there, and was sur- 
 prising to me, was that incomparable fresca painting in St. George's 
 Hall, representing the legend of St. George, and triumph of the Black 
 Prince, and his reception by Edw. III. ; the volto, or roofe, not totally 
 finish'd ; then the Resurrection in the Chapell, where the figure of the 
 Ascension is in my opinion comparable to any paintings of the most 
 famous Roman masters ; the Last Supper also over the altar. I liked 
 the contrivance of the unseene organ behind the altar, nor less the 
 stupendous and beyond all description the incomparable carving of our 
 Gibbons, who is, without controversie, the greatest master both for 
 invention and rarenesse of worke, that the world ever had in any 
 age ; nor doubt I at all that he will prove as greate a master in the 
 statuary art. 
 
 Verrio's invention is admirable, his ord'nance full and flowing, antiq 
 and heroical ; his figures move ; and if the walls hold (which is the 
 onely doubt by reason of the salts which in time and in this moist cli- 
 mate prejudice) the work will preserve his name to ages. 
 
 There was now the terrace brought almost round the old Castle ; the 
 grass made cleane, even, and curiously turfd ; the avenues to the new 
 park, and other walkes, planted with elmes and limes, and a pretty 
 canal, and receptacle for fowle ; nor lesse observable and famous is the 
 throwing so huge a quantity of excellent water to the enormous height 
 of the Castle, for the use of the whole house, by an extraordinary in- 
 vention of Sir Samuel Morland. 
 
 17 June. I din'd at the Earle of Sunderland's with the Earles of 
 Bath, Castlehaven, Lords Viscounts Falconberg, Faulkland, Bp. of 
 London, the Grand Master of Malta, brother to the Duke de Vendosme, 
 (a young wild spark,) and Mr. Dryden the Poet. After evening prayer 
 I walk'd in the park with my Lord Clarendon, where we fell into dis- 
 course of the Bp. of Salisbury (Dr. Seth Ward), his subtilty, &c. Dr. 
 Durell, late Deane of Windsor, being dead. Dr. Turner, one of the 
 Duke's Chaplains, was made Deane. 
 
 I visited my Lady Arlington, Groome of the Stole to her Majesty, 
 who being hardly set down to supper, word was brought her that the 
 Queene was going into the park to walke, it being now neere eleven at 
 iiight ; the alarm caus'd the Countesse to rise in all haste, and leave her 
 supper to us. By this one may take an estimate of the extream slavery 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 443 
 
 and subjection that courtiers live in, who have not time to eate and 
 drinke at their pleasure. It put me in mind of Horace's IVEouse, and 
 to blesse God for my owne private condition. 
 
 Here was Monsieur de I'Angle, the famous minister of Charenton, 
 lately fled from the persecution in France, concerning the deplorable 
 condition of the Protestants there. 
 
 1 8. I was present, and saw and heard the humble submission and 
 petition of the Lord Maior, Sheriffs, and Aldermen, on behalf of the 
 Citty of London, on the quo warranto against their charter, which they 
 deliver'd to his Majesty in the Presence-chamber. It was deliver'd 
 kneeling, and then the King and Council went into the Council-cham- 
 ber, the Maior and his brethren attending still in the Presence-cham- 
 ber. After a short space they were called in, and my Lord Keepef 
 made a speech to them, exaggerating the disorderly and riotous be- 
 haviour in the late election, and polling for Papillon and Du Bois after 
 the Common-hall had ben formally dissolv'd ; with other misdemeanors, 
 libells on the Government, &c. by which they had incurr'd his Majestys 
 high displeasure ; and that but for this submission, and under such 
 articles as the King should require their obedience to, he would cer- 
 tainly enter judgment against them, which hitherto he had suspended. 
 The things requir'd were as follows : that they should neither elect 
 Maior, Sheriff, Alderman, Recorder, Common Serjeant, Towne Cleark, 
 Coroner, or Steward of Southwark, without his Majestys approbation ; 
 and that if they presented any his Majesty did not like, they should 
 proceed in wonted manner to a second choice ; if that was disapprov'd, 
 his Majesty to nominate them ; and if within 5 dales they thought good 
 to assent to this, all fonner miscarriages should be forgotten. And so 
 they tamely parted with their so ancient privileges after they had 
 dined and ben treated by the King. This was a signal and most re- 
 markable period. What the consequences will prove, time will shew. 
 Divers of the old and most learned lawyers and judges were of opinion 
 •that they could not forfeit their charter, but might be personally punish'd 
 for their misdemeanors ; but the plurality of the younger judges and 
 rising men judg'd it otherwise. 
 
 The Popish Plot also, which had hitherto made such a noise, began 
 now sensibly to dwindle, thro' the folly, knavery, impudence, and 
 giddiness of Gates, so as the Papists began to hold up their heads 
 higher than ever, and those who had fled, flock'd to London from 
 abroad. Such suddaine changes and eager doings there had ben, with- 
 out any thing steady or prudent for these last seaven yeares. ' ~^ 
 
 19 June. I return'd to towne in a coach with the Earle of Claren- 
 don, when passing by the glorious palace his father built but few 
 yeares before, which they were nov demolishing, being sold to cer- 
 taine undertakers, I turn'd my head the contrary way till the coach was 
 gone past it, least I might minister occasion of speaking of it, which 
 
444 THE PLOT, EARL RUSSELL, ALGERNON SYDNEY, HOWARD OF ESCRICK. 
 
 tnust needs have griev'd him that in so short a time their pomp was 
 so sadly fallen. 
 
 28. After the Popish Plot there was now a new, and (as they call'd 
 it) a Protestant Plot discover'd, that certaine Lords and others should 
 designe the assassination of the King and the Duke as they were to 
 come from New-market, with a general rising of the Nation, and espe- 
 cialy of the Citty of London, disaffected to the present Government ; 
 upon which were committed to the Tower the Lord Russell, eldest son 
 of the Earle of Bedford, the Earle of Essex, Mr. Algernon Sydney son 
 to the old Earle of Leicester, Mr. Trenchard, Hampden, Lord Howard 
 of Escrick, and others. A proclamation was issued against my Lord 
 Grey, the Duke of Monmouth, Sir Tho. Armstrong, and one Ferguson, 
 who had escaped beyond sea ; of these some were said to be for killing 
 the King, others for onely seizing on him and persuading him to new 
 counsels, on the pretence of the danger of Popery should the Duke 
 live to succeed, who was now again admitted to the councils and cabi- 
 net seacrets. The Lords Essex and Russell were much deplor'd, few 
 believing they had any evil intention against the King or the Church ; 
 some thought they were cunningly drawn in by their enemies for not 
 approving some late councils and management relating to France, to 
 Popery, to the persecution of the Dissenters, &c. They were disco- 
 vered by the Lord Howard of Escrick and some false brethren of the 
 club, and the designe happily broken ; had it taken effect, it would, to 
 all appearance, have expos'd the Government to unknowne and dan- 
 gerous events, which God avert ! 
 
 28. Was borne my grand-daughter at Sayes Court, and christned 
 by the name of Martha Maria, our Viccar officiating. I pray God 
 blesse her, and may she choose the better part. 
 
 13 July. As I was visiting Sir Tho. Yarbrow and his Lady in 
 Covent Garden, the astonishing newes was brought to us of the Earle 
 of Essex having cut his throat, having ben but three days a prisoner in 
 the Tower, and this happening on the very day and instant that Lord 
 Russell was on his trial, and had sentence of death. This accident 
 exceedingly amaz'd me, my Lord Essex being so well knowne by me to 
 be a person of such sober and religious deportment, so well at his ease, 
 and so much oblig'd to the King. It is certaine the King and Duke 
 were at the Tower, and pass'd by his window about the same time this 
 morning, when my Lord asking for a rasor shut himselfe into a closet 
 and perpetrated the horrid act. Yet it was wondred by some how it 
 was possible he should do it in the manner he was found, for the wound 
 was so deepe and wide, that being cut thro' the gullet, wind-pipe, and 
 both the jugulars, it reach'd to the very vertebra of the neck, so that 
 the head held to it by a very little skin as it were ; the gapping too of 
 the rasor, and cutting his owne fingers, was a little strange ; but more, 
 that having pass'd the jugulars he should have strength to proceed so 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 445 
 
 far, that an executioner could hardly have don more with an axe 
 There were odd reflections upon it.' 
 
 This fatal newes coming to Hicks's Hall upon the article of my Lord 
 Russell's trial, was said to have had no little influence on the Jury and 
 all the Bench to his prejudice. Others said that he had himselfe on 
 some occasions hinted, that in case he should be in danger of having 
 his life taken from him by any publiq misfortune, those who thirsted 
 for his estate should misse of their aim ; and that he should speak 
 favourably of that Earle of Northumberland,'' and some others who 
 made away with themselves ; but these are discourses so unlike his 
 sober and prudent conversation, that I have no inclination to credit 
 them. What might instigate him to this devilish fact, I am not able 
 to conjecture. My Lord Clarendon, his brother-in-law, who was with 
 him but the day before, assur'd me he was then very cheerfuU, and 
 declar'd it to be the effect of his innocence and loyalty ; and most be- 
 lieve that his Majesty had no severe intentions against him, tho'hewas 
 altogether inexorable as to Lord Russell, and some of the rest. For 
 my part, I believe the crafty and ambitious Earle of Shaftesbury had 
 brought them into some dislike of the present carriage of matters at 
 Court, not with any designe of destroying the Monarchy (which 
 Shaftsbury has in confidence and for unanswerable reasons told me be 
 would support to his last breath, as having scene and felt the miserie 
 of being under mechanic tyranny), but perhaps of setting up some 
 other whom he might governe, and frame to his own Platonic fancie, 
 without much regard to the religion establish'd under the Hierarchie, 
 for which he had no esteeme ; but when he perceiv'd those whom he 
 had engag'd to rise, fail of his expectations, and the day past, reproch- 
 ing his complices that a second day for an exploit of this nature was 
 never successful!, he gave them the slip, and got into Holland, where 
 the fox died, three moneths before these unhappy Lords and others 
 were discover'd or suspected. Every one deplor'd Essex and Russell, 
 especialy the last, as being thought to have ben drawn in on pretence 
 only of endeavouring to rescue the King from his present councellors, 
 and secure Religion from Popery, and the Nation from arbitrary Go- 
 vernment, now so much apprehended ; whilst the rest of those who 
 were fled, especialy Ferguson and his gang, had doubtlesse some bloudy 
 designe, to set up a Commonwealth, and turn all things topsy turvy. 
 Of the same tragical principles is Sidney. 
 
 ij. I had this day much discourse with Monsieur Pontaq, son to 
 the famous and wise prime President of Bourdeaux. This gentleman 
 was owner of that excellent vignoble of Pontaq and Obrien, from whence 
 
 1 Bishop Burnet, after making every enquiry by desire of the Countess, does not believe 
 that Essex was murdered. Own Times, vol. I. p. 569. 
 
 2 Henry Percy, eighth Earl of Northumberland, shot himself in the Tower, to which he 
 had been committed on a charge of high treason in June 1585. 
 
446 HEINSIUS'S LIBRARY. THE KING MELANCHOLY. THE NATION MADD. 
 
 come the choicest of our Bourdeaux wines ; and I think I may truly 
 say of him, what was not so truly said of St. Paul, that much learning 
 had made him mad. He had studied well in philosophie, but cheifiy 
 the rabbines, and was exceedingly addicted to cabalistical fancies, an 
 eternal hablador [babbler], and halfe distracted by reading aboundance 
 of the extravagant Eastern Jewes. He spake all languages, was very 
 rich, had a handsome person, and was well bred, about 45 yeares of age. 
 
 14 July. I visited Mr. Fraser, a learned Scots gentleman, whom I had 
 formerly recommended to Lord Berkeley for the instruction and go- 
 vernment of his sonn, since dead at sea. He had now ben in Holland 
 £t the sale of the learned Heinsius's library, and shew'd me some very 
 rare and curious bookes, and some MSS. which he had purchas'd to 
 good value. There were three or four Herbals in miniature, accurately 
 don, divers Roman antiquities, of Verona, and very many books of 
 Aldus's impression. 
 
 15. A stranger, an old man, preach'd on 6 Jerem. 8. the not heark- 
 ening to instruction, portentous of desolation to a people ; much aftei 
 Bp. Andrews's method, full of logical divisions, in short and broken 
 periods, and Latine sentences, now quite out of fashion in the pulpit, 
 which is grown into a far more profitable way, of plaine and practical 
 discourses, of which sort this Nation, or any other, never had greater 
 plenty or more profitable (I am confident) ; so much has it to answer 
 for thriving no better on it. 
 
 The public was now in greate consternation on the late plot and 
 conspiracy ; his Majestic very melancholy, and not stirring without 
 double guards ; all the avenues and private dores about White-hall 
 and the Park shut up, few admitted to walke in it. The Papists in the 
 meane time veryjocond, and indeede with reason, seeing their own 
 brought to 'nothing, and turn'd to ridicule, and now a conspiracy of 
 Pr'otestants as they call'd them. 
 
 The Turks were likewise in hostility against the German Emperor, 
 almost masters of the Upper Hungary, and drawing towards Vienna. 
 On the other side the French King (who 'tis believed brought in the 
 infidels) disturbing his Spanish and Dutch neighbours, having swal- 
 low'd up almost all Flanders, pursuing his ambition of a fifth universal 
 monarchy ; and all this blood and disorder in Christendom had evi- 
 dently its rise from our defections at home, in a wanton peace, minding 
 nothing but luxurie, ambition, and to procure money for our vices. 
 To this add our irreligion and atheism, greate ingratitude, and selfe 
 interest ; the apostacy of some, and the suffering the French to grow 
 so greate, and the Hollanders so weake. In a word, we were wanton 
 madd, and surfeiting with prosperity ; every moment unsettling the old, 
 foundations, and never constant to any thing. The Lord in his mercy 
 avert the sad omen, and that we do not provoke him till he beare it nc 
 longer ! 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 447 
 
 This summer did we suffer 20 French men of war to passe our Chan- 
 nell towards the Sound, to help the Danes against the Swedes, who had 
 abandon'd the French interest ; we not having ready sufficient to guard 
 our coasts or take cognizance of what they did ; though the nation never 
 had more, or a better navy, yet the sea never had so slender a fleete. 
 
 19 July. George Prince of Denmark, who landed this day, came to 
 marry the Lady Anne, daughter to the Duke : so I returned home, 
 having scene the young gallant at dinner at White-hall. 
 
 20. Severall of the Conspirators of the lower forme were executed 
 at Tyburn ; and the next day, 
 
 21. Lord Russell was beheaded in Lincoln's Inn Fields, the execu- 
 tioner giving him three butcherly strokes. The speech he made, and 
 paper which he gave the Sheriff declaring his innocence, the noblenesse 
 of the family, the piety and worthynesse of the unhappy gentleman, 
 wrought much pity, and occasion'd various discourses on the plot. 
 
 25. I againe saw Prince George of Denmark : he had the Danish 
 countenance, blonde, of few words, spake French but ill, seem'd some- 
 what heavy, but reported to be valiant, and indeede he had bravely 
 rescu'd and brought off his brother the K. of Denmark in a battaile 
 against the Swedes, when both those Kings were engag'd very smartly. 
 
 28. He was married to the Lady Anne at White-hall. Her Court 
 and Household to be modell'd as the Duke's, her father, had ben, and 
 they to continue in England. 
 
 1 Aug. Came to see me Mr. Flamsted, the famous astronomer, 
 from his Observatorie at Greenewich, to draw the meridian for my 
 pendule, &c. 
 
 2. The Countesses of Bristol and Sunderland, aunt and cousin ger- 
 man of the late Lord Russell, came to visite me, and condole his sad 
 fate. The next day came Col. Russell, uncle to the late Lord Russell, 
 and brother to the Earle of Bedford, and with him Mrs. Middleton, 
 that famous and indeede incomparable beauty, daughter to my relation 
 Sir Robert Needham. 
 
 19. I went to Bromely to visite our Bishop, and excellent neighbour, 
 & to congratulate his now being made Archbishop of Yorke. On the 
 28th he came to take his leave of us, now preparing for his journey and 
 residence in his province. 
 
 28. My sweete little grandchild Martha Maria died, and on the 29th 
 was buried in the parish church. 
 
 2 September. This morning was read in the Church, after the office 
 was done, the declaration setting forth the late conspiracy against 
 the King's person. 
 
 3. I went to see what had ben done by the Duke of Beaufort on his 
 late purchas'd house at Chelsey, which I once had the selling of for the 
 Countesse of Bristol ; he had made greate alterations, but might have 
 built a better house with the materials and the cost he had been at. 
 
4^8 THEDUTCHESSEOFGRAFTON. DEMOLITION OF CLARENDON HOUSE. 
 
 Saw the Countesse of Monte Feltre, whose husband I had former))! 
 known ; he was a subject of the Pope's, but becoming a Protestant, he 
 resided in England, and married into the family of the Savilles oi YorK- 
 shire. The Count, her late husband, was a very learned gent: agreate 
 politician, and a goodly man. She was accompanied by her sister ex- 
 ceedingly skill'd in painting, nor did they spare for colour on their 
 owne faces. They had a greate deal of wit. 
 
 9. It being the day of publiq thanksgiving for his Majesty's late 
 preservation, the former declaration was againe read, and there was an 
 office us'd, compos'd for the occasion. A loyal Sermon was preached 
 on the divine right of Kings, from 144 Psalm 10. 'Thou hast preserved 
 David from the peril of the sword.' 
 
 15. Came to visite me the learned anatomist Dr. Tyson, with some 
 other Fellows of our Society. 
 
 16, At the elegant villa and garden of Mr. Bohun's at Lee. He 
 shewed me the zinnar tree or platanus, and told me that since they had 
 planted this kind of tree about the Citty of Ispahan in Persia, the 
 plague, which formerly much infested the place, had exceedingly abated 
 of its mortal effects, and render'd it very healthy. 
 
 18. I went to London to visite the Dutchesse of Grafton, now greate 
 with child, a most virtuous and beautifull lady. Dining with her at 
 my Lord Chamberlaine's, met my Lord of St. Alban's, now grown so 
 blind that he could not see to take his meate. He has liv'd a most 
 easy life, in plenty even abroad, whilst his Majesty was a sufferer ; he 
 has lost immense sums at play, which yet, at about 80 yeares old, he 
 continues, having one that sits by him to name the spots in the cards. 
 He eate and drank with extraordinary appetite. He is a prudent old 
 courtier, and much enrich'd since his Majesty's returne. 
 
 After dinner I walked to survey the sad demolition of Clarendon 
 House, that costly and only sumptuous palace of the late Lord Chan- 
 cellor Hyde, where 1 have often ben so cheerfuU with him, and some- 
 times so sad: happening to make him a visite but the day before he fled 
 from the angry Parliament, accusing him of mal-administration, and 
 being envious at his grandeur, who from a private lawyer came to be 
 father in law to the Duke of York, and as some would suggest, design- 
 ing hi? Majesty's marriage with the Infanta of Portugal, not apt to 
 breed • to this they imputed much of our unhappiness, and that he 
 being sole minister and favorite at his Majesty's restauration, neglected 
 to gratify the king's suffering party, preferring those who were the cause 
 of our troubles. But perhaps as many of these things were injuriously 
 laid to his charge, so he kept the government far steadier than it has 
 prov'd since. I could name some who I think contributed greately to 
 his ruin, the buffoones and the misses, to whom he was an eye-sore. 
 'Tis t»ue he was of a jolly temper after the old English fashion ; but 
 France had now th3 ascendant, and we were become quite another na- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN> EVELYN. 449 
 
 lion. The Chancellor gone, and dying in exile, the Earl his successor 
 sold that which cost ^50,000. building, to the young Duke of Albemarle 
 for £2^,000. to pay debts which how contracted remains yet a mystery, 
 his sonn being no way a prodigal. Some imagine the Dutchesse his 
 daughter had ben chargeable to him. HoAvever it were, this stately 
 palace is decreed to ruine, to support the prodigious waste the Duke of 
 Albemarle had made of his estates since the old man died. He sold it 
 to the highest bidder, and it fell to certaine rich bankers and mechanics, 
 who gave for it and the ground about it .£35,000.; they designe a new 
 towne as it were, and a most magnificent piazza (i. e. square.) 'Tis 
 said they have already materials towards it with what they sold of the 
 house alone, more worth than what they paid for it. See the vicissi- 
 tude of earthly things ! I was astonished at this demolition, nor less 
 at the little army of labourers and artificers levelling the ground, laying 
 foundations, and contriving greate buildings at an expence of ^200,000. 
 if they perfect their designe.' 
 
 19. In my walkes I stepp'd into a goldbeaters work-house, where 
 he shew'd me the wonderfuU ductilitie of that spreading and oylie 
 metalL He said it must be finer than the standard, such as was old 
 angel gold, and that of such he had once scene to the value of .£100. 
 stamp'd with the agmis dei; and coyn'd at the time of the holy war, 
 which had ben found in a ruin'd wall somewhere in the north, neere to 
 Scotland, some of which he beat into leaves, and the rest sold to the 
 curiosi in antiquities and medails. 
 
 23 Sept. We had now the welcome tidings of the King of Poland 
 raising the siege of Vienna, which had given terror to all Europe, and 
 utmost reproch to the French, who 'tis believ'd brought in the Turks 
 for diversion that the French King might the more easily swallow 
 Flanders, and pursue his unjust conquests on the Empire, whilst we 
 sat unconcern'd and under a deadly charm from somebody. 
 
 There was this day a collection for rebuilding New-market, consum'd 
 by an accidental fire, which removing his Majesty thence sooner than 
 was intended, put by the assassinates, who were disappointed of their 
 rendezvous and expectation by a wonderfull providence. This made the 
 
 1 In a letter to Lord Combury, dated Sayes Court, 23 Jan. 1663-6, Mr. Evelyn having 
 been to see Clarendon House, says, * I went v/ith prejudice and a critical spirit, incident to 
 those who faccy they know any thing in art : I acknowledge that I have never scene a nobler 
 pile. My old friend and fellow traveller (inhabitants and co-temporaries at Rome) has per- 
 fectly acquitted himself. It is, without hyperbole, the best contrived, the most usefull, 
 gracefull, and magnificent house in England ; I except not Audley End, which, though larger 
 and full of gaudy barbarous ornaments, dos not gratifie judicious spectators. Here is state 
 and use, solidity and beauty, most symetrically combined together. Nothing abroad pleases 
 me better, nothing at home approches it. I have no designe to gratifie the architect beyond 
 what I am obliged as a professed honorer of virtue wheresoever 'tis conspicuous ; but when I 
 had seriously contemplated every roome (for I went into 'em all, from the cellar to the plat- 
 forme on the roofe), seene how well and judiciously the walls were erected, the arches cut and 
 tum'd, the timber brac'd, their scantlings and contignations dispos'd, I was most highly saris* 
 fied. and do acknowledge myselfe to have much improv'd by what I observ'd.' 
 
 29 
 
45° THE CHARTER OF THE CITY OF LONDON REVOKED. JEFFERIES-. 
 
 King more earnest to render Winchester the seate of his autumnal field 
 diversions for the future, designing a palace there, where the antient 
 castle stood ; infinitely indeede preferable to New-market for prospects, 
 air, pleasure, and provisions. The surveior has already begun the 
 foundation for a palace, estimated to cost ^3S,ooo, and hib Majesty 
 is purchasing ground about it to make a parke, &c. 
 
 4 Oct. I went to London, on receiving a note from the Countesse 
 'of ArHngton, of some considerable charge or advantage I might ob- 
 taine by applying myselfe to his Majesty on this signal conjuncture ot 
 his Majesty entering up judgment against the City Charter ; the pro- 
 posal made me I wholly declin'd, not being well satisfied with these 
 violent transactions, and not a little sorry that his Majesty was so often 
 put upon tilings of this nature against so greate a Citty, the conse- 
 quences whereoff may be so much to his prejudice ; so I return'd 
 home. At this time the Lord Chief Justice Pemberton was displaced. 
 He was held to be the most learned of the judges, and an honest man. 
 Sir Geo. Jefferies was advanc'd reputed to be most ignorant, but most 
 daring. Sir Geo. Treby, Recorder of London, was also put by, and 
 one Genner, an obscure lawyer, set in his place. Eight of the richest 
 and cheife aldermen were remov'd, and all the rest made onely justices 
 of the peace, and no more wearing of gownes or chaines of gold. The 
 Lord Mayor and two Sheriffs holding their places by new grants, as 
 Czisiodes, at the King's pleasure. The pompe and grandure of the 
 most august Citty in the world thus changed face in a moment, which 
 gave greate occasion of discourse and thoughts of hearts, what all this 
 would end in. Prudent men were for the old foundations. 
 
 Following his Majesty this morning thro' the gallerie, I went, witk 
 the few who attended him, into the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's dressing 
 roome within her bed-chamber, where she was in her morning loose 
 garment, her maids combing her, newly out of her bed, his Majesty 
 and the gallants standing about her ; but that which engag'd my curi- 
 osity was the rich and splendid furniture of this woman's apartment, 
 now twice or thrice pull'd down and rebuilt to satisfie her prodigal and 
 expensive pleasures, whilst her Majestys dos not exceede some gentle- 
 men's ladies in furniture and accommodation. Here I saw the new 
 fabriq of French tapissry, for designe, tendernesse of worke, and in- 
 comparable imitation of the best paintings, beyond any thing I had 
 ever beheld. Some pieces had Versailles, St. Germain's, and other 
 palaces of the French King, with huntings, figures, and landskips, exotiq 
 fowls, and all to the life rarely don. Then for Japan cabinets, screenes, 
 pendule clocks, greate vases of wrought plate, tables, stands, chimney 
 furniture, sconces, branches, braseras, &c. all of massive silver, and out 
 of number, besides some of her Majesty's best paintings. 
 
 Surfeiting of this, I din'd at Sir Stephen Fox's, and went contented 
 home to my poor, but quiet villa. What contentment can there be in 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 4S» 
 
 the riches and splendor of this world, if purchas'd with vice and 
 dishonour ! 
 
 lo Oct. Visited the Dutchesse of Grafton, not yet brought to bed, 
 and dining with my Lord Chamberlaine (her father), went with them 
 to see Montagu House, a palace lately built by Lord Montagu, who 
 had married the most beautiful! Countesse of Northumberland'. It is 
 a stately and ample palace. Signior Verrio's fresca paintings, especialy 
 the funeral pile of Dido, on the stayrecase, the labours of Hercules, 
 fight with the Centaurs, effeminacy with Dejanira, and Apotheosis or 
 reception amongst the gods, on the walls and roofe of the greate 
 roome above, I think exceedes any thing he has yet don, both for 
 <lesigne, colouring, and exuberance of invention, comparable to the 
 greatest of the old masters, or what they so celebrate at Rome. In 
 the rest of the chamber are some excellent paintings of Holbein and 
 ■other masters. The garden is large, and in good aire, but the fronts 
 •of the house not answerable to the inside. The Court at entrie, and 
 wings for offices seeme too neere the strecte, and that so veiy narrow 
 and meanely built that the corridore is not in proportion to the rest, 
 to hide the court from being overlook'd by neighbours, all which might 
 have ben prevented had they plac'd the house further into the ground, 
 of which there was enough to spare. But on the whole it is a fine 
 palace, built after the French pavilion way, by Mr. Hooke, the Curator, 
 of the Royal Society. There were with us my Lady Scroope, the 
 greate witt, and Monsieur Chardine, the celebrated traveller. 
 
 13. Came to visite me my old and worthy friend Mr. Packer, 
 bringing with him his nephew Berkeley, grandson to the honest judge. 
 A most ingenious, virtuous, and religious gentleman, seated neere 
 Worcester, and very curious in gardening. 
 
 17 Oct. 1 was at the court leet of this manor, my Lord Arlington 
 his Majesty's High Steward.' 
 
 26. Came to visite and dine with me, Mr. Brisbane, Secretary to 
 the Admiralty, a learned and agreeable man. 
 
 30. I went to Kew to visite Sir Hen. Capell, brother to the late 
 Earle of Essex ; but he being gone to Cashioberry, after I had seene 
 his garden and the alterations therein, I return'd home. He had re- 
 pair'd his house, roof'd his hall with a kind of cupola, and in a niche 
 was an artificial fountaine ; but the roome seems to me over melan- 
 choly, yet might be much improv'd by having the walls well painted a 
 fresca. The two greene houses for oranges and mirtles communicating 
 with the roomes below, are very well contriv'd. There is a cupola 
 maae with pole-work betweene two elmes at the end of a walk, which 
 
 ' He was made Ear] of Montagu by King William, and Duke by Queen Anne. His wife was 
 Lady Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Wriothesley Ear! of Southampton, widow of Joceline 
 Percy, the nth and last Earl of Northumberland (of that family). 
 
 2 The manor of Deptford le Strond, alias West Greenwich. 
 
452 MONMOUTH AGAIN AT COURT. MARRIAGE OF MRS. CASTLE. 
 
 being cover'd by plashing the trees to them, is very pretty: for the rest 
 there are too many fir trees in the garden. 
 
 17 Nov. I tooke a house in Villiers Streete, York Buildings, for thfr 
 winter, having many important concernes to dispatch, and for the edu- 
 cation of my daughters. 
 
 23. The Duke of Monmouth, till now proclaim'd traytor on the 
 pretended plot for which Lord Russell was lately beheaded, came this 
 evening to White-hall and render'd himselfe, on which were various 
 discourses. 
 
 26. I went to compliment the Dutchesse of Grafton, now laying- 
 in of her first child, a sonn ', which she called for, that I might see it. 
 She was become more beautiful, if it were possible, than before, and 
 full of vertue and sweetnesse. She discours'd with me of many parti- 
 culars, with greate prudence and gravity beyond her yeares. 
 
 29. Mr. Forbes sheWd me the plot of the garden making at Bur- 
 leigh, at my Lord Exeter's, which I look'd on as one of the most noble 
 that I had seene. 
 
 The whole court and towne in solemn mourning for the death of the 
 K. of Portugal, her Majesties brother. 
 
 30. At the anniversary dinner of the Royal Society the King sent 
 us two does. Sir Cyril Wych was elected President. 
 
 5 Dec. I was this day invited to a wedding of one Mrs. Castle, to 
 whom I had some obligation, and it was to her fifth husband, a Lieu- 
 tenant Colonel of the Citty. She was the daughter of one Burton, a 
 broom-man, by his wife who sold kitchen stuff in Kent Streete, whom 
 God so bless'd that the father became a very rich, and was a very 
 honest man ; he was Sheriff of Surrey, where I have sat on the bench 
 with him. Another of his daughters was married to Sir John Bowles ; 
 and this daughter was a jolly friendly woman. There was at the wed- 
 ding the Lord Maior, the Sheriff, several Aldermen, and persons of 
 qualitie ; above all. Sir Geo. Jefferies, newly made Lord Chiefe Justice 
 of England, with Mr. Justice Withings, daunc'd with the bride and 
 were exceeding merrie. These greate men spent the rest of the after- 
 noone, till 11 at night, in drinking healths, taking tobacco, and talking 
 much beneath the gravity of Judges that had but a day or two before 
 condemn'd Mr. Algernon Sidney, who was executed the 7th on Tower 
 Hill, on the single witnesse of that monster of a man. Lord Howard of 
 Escrick, and some sheets of paper taken in Mr. Sidney's study, pre- 
 tended to be written by him, but not fully proVd, nor the time when, 
 but appearing to have ben written before his Majesty's restauration, 
 •ind then pardoned by the act of oblivion ; so thattho' Mr. Sidney was 
 known to be a person obstinately averse to government by a monarch 
 
 ' Charles, wno succeeded his father killed in Ireland in 1690. This son was Lord Lieutenant 
 of Irelanii, Lord Chamberlain, Privy Councellor. K. G. &c. in the reigns of Anne, George I. 
 and George II. There is a fine whole length me^zotinto of him by Faber. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 455 
 
 (the subject of the paper was ia answer to one of Sir E. Filmer), yet 
 it was thought he had very hard measure. There is this yet observable, 
 that he had ben an inveterate enemie to the last King, and in actual 
 rebellion against him ; a man of greate courage, greate sense, greate 
 parts, which he shew'd both at his trial and death ; for when he came 
 on the scaffold, instead of a speech, he told them onely that he had 
 made his peace wiih God, that he came not thither to talk, but to die ; 
 put a paper into the Sheriffs' hand, and another into a friend's, sayd 
 one prayer as short as a grace, laid down his neck, and bid the execu- 
 tioner do his office. 
 
 The Duke of Monmouth, now having his pardon, refuses to acknow- 
 ledge there was any treasonable plot ; for which he is banish'd White- 
 hall. There was a greate disappointment to some who had prosecuted 
 Trenchard, Hampden, &c. that for want of a second witnesse were come 
 out of the Tower upon their habeas corpus. 
 
 The King had now augmented his guards with a new sort of dragoons, 
 who carried also granados, and were habited after the Polish manner, 
 with long picked caps, very fierce and fantastical. 
 
 7. I went to the Tower, and visited the Earl of Danby, the late Lord 
 High Treasurer, who had ben imprison'd four years : he receiv'd me 
 with greate kindnesse. 1 dined with him, and staled till night. We 
 had discourse of many things, his Lady railing sufficiently at the keep- 
 ing her husband so long in prison. Here I saluted the Lord Dun- 
 blaine's wife ', who before had ben married to Emerton, and about 
 whom there was that scandalous businesse before the delegates. 
 
 23. The small pox very prevalent and mortal ; the Thames frozen. 
 
 26. I dined at Lord Clarendon's, where I was to meet that ingenious 
 and learned gentleman Sir Geo. Wheeler, who has published the 
 excellent description of Africa and Greece, and who being a Knight 
 of a very fair estate and young, had now newly entred into holy 
 orders. 
 
 27. I went to visite Sir John Chardin, a French gentleman who had 
 travell'd three times by land into Persia, and had made many curious 
 researches in his travells, of which he was now setting forth a relation. 
 It being in England this year one of the severest frosts that had hap- 
 pen'd of many yeares, he told me the cold in Persia was much greater, 
 the ice of an incredible thicknesse ; that they had little use of iron in all 
 that country, it being so moiste (tho' the aire admirably clear and 
 healthy), that oyle would not preserve it from rusting, so that they had 
 neither clocks nor watches ; but some padlocks they had for doores 
 and for boxes. 
 
 30. Dr. Sprat, now made Deane of Westminster, preached to the 
 King at White-hall, on 6 Matt. 24. Recollecting the passages of the 
 
 ^ Peregrine Viscount Dumblaine, youngest son of the Earl of Danby, so created in hia 
 father's life-time, and who became his successor in title and estate. 
 
454 SEVERE FROST; BOOTHS AND PASTIMES ON THE THAMES. 
 
 past yeare, I gave God thanks for his mercies, praying his blessing for 
 the future. 
 
 1684, I January. The weather continuing intolerably severe, 
 streetes of booths were set upon the Thames ; the aire was so very cold 
 and thick, as of many yeares there had not ben the like. The small pox 
 was very mortal. 
 
 2. I din'd at Sir Ste. Fox's : after dinner came a fellow who eatelive 
 charcoal, glowingly ignited, quenching them in his mouth, and then 
 champing and swallowing them down. There was a dog also which 
 seem'd to do many rational actions. 
 
 6. The river quite frozen. 
 
 9. I went crosse the Thames on the ice, now become so thick' as to 
 beare not onely streetes of boothes, in which they roasted meate, and 
 had divers shops of wares, quite acrosse as in a towne, but coaches, 
 carts, and horses, passed over. So I went from Westminster Stayres to 
 Lambeth, and din'd with the Archbishop : where I met my Lord Bruce, 
 Sir Geo. Wheeler, Coll. Cooke, and severall divines. After dinner and 
 discourse with his Grace till evening prayers. Sir Geo. Wheeler and I 
 walked over the ice from Lambeth Stayres to the horse ferry. 
 
 10. I visited Sir Robert Reading, where after supper we had musiq, 
 but not comparable to that which Mrs. Bridgeman made us on the 
 guittar with such extraordinary skill and dexterity. 
 
 16. The Thames was fiU'd with people and tents, selling all sorts of 
 wares as in the Citty. 
 
 24. The frost continuing more and more severe, the Thames before 
 London was still planted with boothes in formal streetes, all sorts of 
 trades and shops furnish'd and full of commodities, even to a printing 
 presse, where the people and ladyes tooke a fancy to have their names 
 printed, and the day and yeare set down when printed on the Thames ' ; 
 this humour tooke so universally, that 'twas estimated the printer 
 gain'd ^5. a day, for printing a line onely, at sixpence a name, besides 
 what he got by ballads, &c. Coaches plied from Westminster to the 
 Temple, and from several other staires to and fro, as in the streetes, 
 sleds, sliding with skeetes, a bull-baiting, horse and coach races, puppet 
 plays and interludes, ccokes, tipling, and other lewd places, so that it 
 seem'd to be a bacchanalian triumph, or carnival on the water, whilst it 
 was a severe judgment on the land, the trees not onely splitting as if by 
 lightning-struck, but men and cattle perishing in divers places; and the 
 very seas so lock'd up with ice, that no vessells could stir out or come 
 in. The fowles, fish, and birds, and all our exotiq plants and greenes 
 universally perishing. Many parkes of deer were destroied, and all 
 
 1 By favour of a gentleman possessed of innumerable literary curiosities, I have one oi 
 these cards now before me. Within a treble border, 'Monsieur et Madam Justel. Printed 
 on the River of Thames being frozen. In the 36:h year of King Charles the II. Feb. $, l68^.' 
 V. s. b added with a pen, probably by Mr. Justell. Editor. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 45? 
 
 sorts of fuell so deare that there were greate contributions to preserve 
 the poore alive. Nor was this severe weather much lesse intense in 
 most parts of Europe, even as far as Spaine and the most Southern 
 tracts. London, by reason of the excessive coldnesse of the aire hin- 
 dering the ascent of the smol^e, was so fiU'd with the fuliginous steame 
 of the sea-coale, that hardly could one see crosse the streetes, and this 
 filling the lungs with its grosse particles, exceedingly obstructed the 
 breast, so as one could scarcely breath. Here was no water to be had 
 from the pipes and engines, nor could the brewers and divers other 
 tradesmen worke, and every moment was full of disastrous accidents. 
 
 4 Feb. I went to Sayes Court to see how the frost had dealt with 
 my garden, where I found many ofthegreenes and rare plantes utterly 
 destroied. The oranges and mirtills very sick, the rosemary and laurells 
 dead to all appearance, but the cypress likely to indure it. 
 
 5. It began to thaw, but froze againe. My coach crossed from 
 Lambeth to the Horseferry at Millbank, Westminster. The booths 
 were almost all taken downe, but there was first a Map or Landskip 
 cut in copper representing all the manner of the camp, and the several 
 actions, sports, and pastimes thereon, in memory of so signal a frost '. 
 
 7. I dined with my Lord Keeper [North], and walking alone with 
 him some time in his gallery, we had discourse of musiq. He told me 
 he had ben brought up to it from a child, so as to sing his part at first 
 sight. Then speaking of Painting, of which he was also a, greate 
 lover, and other ingenious matters, he desir'd me to come oftener 
 to see him. 
 
 8. I went this evening to visite that greate and knowing virtuoso 
 Monsieur Justell. The weather was set in to an absolute thaw and 
 raine, but the Thames still frosen. 
 
 10. After eight weekes missing the foraine posts, there came abound- 
 ance of intelligence from abroad. 
 
 12. The Earle of Danby, late Lord Treasurer, together with the 
 Roman Catholic Lords impeach'd of High Treason in the Popish Plot, 
 had now their Habeas Corpus, and came out upon baile, after five 
 yeares imprisonment in the Tower. Then were also tried and deeply 
 fin'd Mr. Hampden and others for being suppos'd of the late Plot, for 
 which Lord Russell and Col. Sidney suffer'd ; as also the person who 
 went about to prove that the Earle of Essex had his throat cut in the 
 Tower by others ; likewise Mr. Johnson, the author of that famous 
 piece called Julian. 
 
 15. Newes of the Prince of Orange having accus'd the Deputies of 
 Amsterdam of Crimen lesoe Majestatis, and being Pensioners to France. 
 
 Dr. Tenison communicated to me his intention of erecting a Library 
 in St. Martin's parish, for the publiq use, and desir'd my assistance with 
 
 I There are different representations of this curious scene, both in wood and copper -phte 
 engravings. 
 
456 PUBLIC LIBRARY FOR LONDON. TOUCHING FOR THK KING'S EVIL. 
 
 Sir Christopher Wren about the placeing and structure thereof. A 
 worthy and laudable designe. He told me there were 30 or 40 young 
 men in Orders in his parish, either Governors to young gentlemen 01 
 Chaplains to noblemen, who being reprov'd by him on occasion for 
 frequenting taverns or coffee-houses, told him they would study or em- 
 ploy their time better, if they had books. This put the pious Doctor 
 on this designe ; and indeede a greate reproch it is that so greate a 
 Citty as London should not have a publiq Library becoming it. There 
 ought to be one at St. Paules ; the West end of that church (if ever 
 finish'd) would be a convenient place. 
 
 23. I went to Sir John Chardin, who desired my assistance for the 
 engraving the plates, the translation, and printing his History of that 
 wonderfuU Persian Monument neere Persepolis, and other rare antiqui- 
 ties, which he had caus'd to be drawne from the originals in his second 
 journey into Persia, which we now concluded upon. Afterwards I 
 went with Sir Christopher Wren to Dr. Tenison, where we made the 
 drawing and estimate of the expence of the Library, to be begun this 
 next Spring neere the Mewes '. 
 
 Greate expectation of the Prince of Orange's attempts in Holland to 
 bring those to Amsterdam to consent to the new levies, to which we 
 were no friends, by a pseudo-politic adherence to the French interest. 
 
 26. Came to visite me Dr. Turner, our new Bishop of Roches- 
 ter. 
 
 28. I din'd at Lady Take's, where I heard Dr. Walgrave (Phy- 
 sitian to the Duke and Dutchesse) play excellently on the lute. 
 
 7 March. Dr. Meggot, Deane of Winchester, preached an incompa- 
 rable sermon, (the King being now gone to New-market,) on 12 Heb. 
 15. shewing and pathetically pressing the care we ought to have least 
 -we come short of the grace of God. Afterwards I went to visite Dr. 
 Tenison at Kensington, whither he was retired to refresh after he had 
 ben sick of the small-pox. 
 
 15. At White-hall preached Mr. Henry Godolphin, a prebend of 
 :St. Paules, and brother to my deare friend Sydnie, on 55 Isaiah 7. I 
 ■dined at the Lord Keepei-'s, and brought to him Sir John Chardin, who 
 shewed him his accurate draughts of his travells in Persia. 
 
 28. There was so greate a concourse of people with their children 
 to be touch'd for the Evil, that six or seven were crush'd to death by 
 pressing at the Chirurgeon's doore for tickets. The weather began to 
 be more mild and tolerable, but there was not the least appearance 
 of any Spring. 
 
 30 Easter day. The Bp. of Rochester [Dr. Turner] preach'd be- 
 fore the King ; after which his Majesty, accompanied with three of his 
 
 I There is now (1817) a handsome room well furnishetl with books, under the care of the 
 Vicar of St. Martin's, in Castle-street, near the Mews gate, Sion College is more peculiarly 
 appropriated to the Clergy in the City. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVEI.YN. 45/ 
 
 natural sonns, the Dukes of Northumberland, Richmond, and St 
 Albans, (sons of Portsmouth, Cleaveland, and Nelly), went up to the 
 Altar ; the three boys entering before the King within the railes, at ths 
 right hand, and three Bishops on the left, viz. London (who officiated), 
 Durham, and Rochester, with the Sub-dean Dr. Holder. The King 
 kneeling before the Altar, making his offering, the Bishops first receiv'd, 
 and then his Majesty ; after which he retir'd to a canopied seate on the 
 right hand. Note, there was perfume burnt before the Office began. 
 I had receiv'd the Sacrament at White-hall early with the Lords and 
 Household, the Bishop of London officiating. Then went to St. Mar- 
 tin's, where Dr. Tenison preach'd (recovered from the small-pox) ; then 
 went againe to White-hall as above. In the afternoone went to St. 
 Martin's againe. 
 
 4 April. I return'd home with my family to my house at Sayes 
 Court, after five months residence in London ; hardly the least appear- 
 ance of any Spring. 
 
 30. A Letter of mine to the Royal Society concerning the terrible 
 effects of the past winter being read, they desired it might be printed 
 in the next Part of their Transactions.' 
 
 10 May. I went to visite my brother in Surrey. Call'd by the way 
 at Ashted, where Sir Robert Howard (Auditor to the Exchequer) cntcr- 
 tain'd me very civilly at his new built house, which stands in a Park 
 on the Downe, the avenue South ; tho' downe hill to the house, which 
 is not greate, but with the outhouses very convenient. The staire-case 
 is painted by Verrio with the storie of Astrea ; amongst other figures 
 is the Picture of the Painter himselfe, and not unlike him ; the rest is 
 well done, onely the columns did not at all please me ; there is also 
 Sir Robert's own Picture in an oval ; the whole in fresca. The place 
 has this greate defect, that there is no water but what is drawn up by 
 horses from a very deepe well. 
 
 11. Visited Mr. Higham, who was ill, and died 3 days after. His 
 grandfather and father (who christen'd me), with himselfe, had now 
 ben Rectors of this parish loi yeares, viz. from May 1583. 
 
 12. I return'd to London, where I found the Commissioners of the 
 Admiralty abolish'd, and the office of Admiral restor'd to the Duke, as 
 to the disposal and ordering all Sea businesse ; but his Majesty sign'd 
 all Petitions, Papers, Warrants, and Commissions, that the Duke, not 
 acting as Admiral by commission or office, might not incur the penalty 
 of the late Act against Papists and Dissenters holding offices, and re- 
 jusmg the Oath and Test. Every one was glad of this change, those 
 in the late Commission being utterly ignorant in their duty, to the 
 greate damage of the Navy. 
 
 The utter ruine of the Low Country was threatened by the siege of 
 Luxembergh, if not timely reliev'd, and by the obstinacy of the Hol- 
 
 l This was done in No. 158. See it in Dr. Kippis's Edit. Biog. Brit. V0I.V. p. 623. 
 
458 LUXEMBERG SURRENDERED. NEW ARRESTS IN LONDON. 
 
 landers, who refus'd to assist the Prince of Orange, being corrupted by 
 the French. 
 
 i6. I received j^.6oo of Sir Charles Bickerstaff for the fee-farm oJ 
 Pilton in Devon. 
 
 26. Lord Dartmouth was chosen Master of the Trinity Company, 
 newly return'd with the fleete from blowing up and demolishing Tan- 
 gier. In the sermon preach 'd on this occasion Dr. Can observed that, 
 in the 27th chapter of the Acts of the Apostles, the casting anchor out 
 of the fore-ship had been cavill'd at as betraying total ignorance : that 
 it is very true our seamen do not do so, but in the Mediterranean 
 their ships were built differently from ours, and to this day it was the 
 practice to do so there. 
 
 Luxembergh was surrendered to the French, which makes them mas- 
 ter of all the Netherlands, gives them entrance into Germany, and a fair 
 game for universal monarchy ; which that we should suffer, who only 
 and easily might have hinder'd, astonish'd all the world. Thus is the 
 poor Prince of Orange ruin'd, and this nation and all the Protestant 
 interest in Europe following, unlesse God in his infinite mercy, as by a 
 miracle, interpose, and our greate ones alter their counsels. The French 
 fleete were now besieging Genoa, but after burning much of that beau- 
 tifuU citty with their bombs, went off with disgrace. 
 
 12 June. I went to advise and give directions about the building 
 two streetes in Berkeley Gardens, reserving the house and as much of 
 the garden as the breadth of the house. In the meane time I could not 
 but deplore that sweete place (by far the most noble gardens, courts, 
 and accommodations, stately porticos, &c. any where about the towne) 
 should be so much straighten'd and turn'd into tenements. But that 
 magnificent pile and gardens contiguous to it, built by the late Lord 
 Chancellor Clarendon, being all demolish'd, and design'd for Piazzas 
 and buildings, was some excuse for my Lady Berkeley's resolution of 
 letting out her ground also for so excessive a price as was offer'd, 
 advancing neere ^.1000 per ann. in mere ground-rents; to such a 
 mad intemperance was the age come of building about a citty, by far 
 too disproportionate already to the nation' ; I having in my time seene 
 it almost as large again as it was within my memory. 
 
 II. My cousin Verney, to whom a very greate fortune was fallen, 
 came to take leave of us, going into the country ; a very worthy and 
 virtuous young gentleman. 
 
 22. Last Fiiday Sir Tho. Armstrong was executed at Tyburn for 
 treason, without tryal, having been outlaw'd and apprehended in Hol- 
 land, on the conspiracy of the Duke of Monmouth, Lord Russell, &c. 
 which gave occasion of discourse to people and lawyers, in reguard it 
 was on an outlawry that judgment was given and execution °. 
 
 ^ What would Mr. Evelyn think if he saw what is now called London ? 
 
 ° When brought up for judgement Armstrong insisted on his right to a trial, the act giving 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 459 
 
 2 July. I went to the Observatory at Greenewich, where Mr. Flam- 
 stcd tooke his observations of the eclipse of the sun, now almost three 
 parts obscured. 
 
 Tliere had been an excessive hot and dry Spring, and such a drought 
 still continu'd as never was in my memorie. 
 
 1 3 July. Some small sprinkling of raine ; the leaves dropping from 
 the trees as in Autumn. 
 
 25. I din'd at Lord Falkland's, Treasurer of the Navy, where after 
 dinner we had rare musiq, there being, amongst others, Signior Pietro 
 Reggio and Signior John Battist, both famous, one for his voice, the 
 other for playing on the harpsichord, few if any in Europe exceeding 
 him. There was also a Frenchman who sung an admirable basse. 
 
 26. I return'd home where I found my Lord Cheife Justice [Jeffe- 
 ries], the Countesse of Clarendon, and Lady Cath. Fitz-Gerald, who 
 dined with me. 
 
 10 August. We had now rain after such a drowth as no man in 
 England had known. 
 
 24. Excessive hot. We had not had above one or two considerable 
 showers, and those storms, these 8 or 9 months. Many trees died for 
 the want of refreshment. 
 
 31. Mr. Sidney Godolphin was made Baron Godolphin. 
 
 26 Sept. The King being return'd from Winchester, there was a 
 numerous Court at White-hall. 
 
 At this time the Earle of Rochester was remov'd from the Treasury 
 to the Presidentship of the Council ; Lord Godolphin was made first 
 Commissioner of the Treasury in his place ; Lord Middleton (a Scot) 
 made Secretary of State, in the room of Lord Godolphin. These 
 alterations being very unexpected and mysterious, gave greate occasion 
 of discourse. 
 
 There was now an Ambassador from the King of Siam in the East 
 Indies to his Majesty. 
 
 22. Oct. I went with Sir William Godolphin to see the Rhinoceros, 
 or Unicom, being the first that I suppose was ever brought into Eng- 
 land. She belong'd to some East India merchants, and was sold (as I 
 remember) for above £.1000. 
 
 At the same time I went to see a Crocodile, brought from some of 
 the West India islands, resembling the Egyptian Crocodile. 
 
 24 Oct. I din'd at Sir Stephen Fox's with the Duke of Northum- 
 berland. He seem'd to be a young gentleman of good capacity, well 
 bred, civil, and modest : newly come from travell, and had made his 
 
 that right to those who came in within a year, and the year was not expired. Jefferies refused 
 it ; and when Armstrong insisted that he asked nothing but law, Jefferies told him he should 
 nave it to the full, and ordered his execution in six days. When Jefferies went to the King at 
 Windsor soon after the trial, the King took a ring from his linger, and gave it to Jefferies. 
 Kumet II. 939. 
 
460 THE LORD MAIOR'S SHEW; THE QUEENE'S BIRTH-DAY. 
 
 campaigne at the siege of Luxemburg. Of all his Majesty's children 
 (of which he had now six Dukes) this seem'd the most accomplish'd and 
 worth the owning. He is extraordinary handsome and well shap'd. 
 What the Dukes of Richmond and St. Alban's will prove, their youth 
 does not yet discover ; they are very pretty boys. 
 
 26. Dr. Goodman preach'd before the King on 2 James 12. con- 
 cerning the law of liberty : an excellent discourse and in good method. 
 He is author of ' The Prodigal Son,' a treatise worth reading, and 
 another of the old Religion. 
 
 28. I carried Lord Clarendon thro' the Citty, amidst all the squibbs 
 and Bacchanalia of the Lord Maior's shew, to the Royal Society [at 
 Gresham CoU.] where he was propos'd a member ; and then treated 
 him at dinner. 
 
 1 went to St. Clements, that pretty built and contriv'd church, where 
 a young divine gave us an eloquent Sermon on i Cor. 6. 20. inciting to 
 gratitude and glorifying God for the fabriq of our bodys & the dignitie 
 of our nature. 
 
 27. I visited the Lord Chamberlaine, where din'd the black Baron 
 and Monsieur Flamerin, who had so long ben banish'd France foi 
 a duel. 
 
 2 Nov. A suddaine change from temperate warme weather to an 
 excessive cold raine, frost, snow, and storm, such as had seldome ben 
 known. This Winter weather began as early and fierce as the past did 
 late ; till about Christmas there had ben hardly any Winter. 
 
 4. Dr. Turner, now translated from Rochester to Ely upon the death 
 of Dr. Peter Gunning, preached before the King at White-hall on 
 3 Romans 8, a very excellent sermon, vindicating the Church of Eng- 
 land against the pernicious doctrines of the Church of Rome. He 
 challenged the producing but of 5 Cleargymen who forsooke our Church 
 and went over to that of Rome, during all the troubles & rebellion in 
 England, which lasted neere twenty yeares ; and this was to my certaine 
 observation a greate truth. 
 
 15. Being the Queene's birth-day, there were fire-works on the 
 Thames before White-hall, with pageants of castles, forts, and other 
 devices of gyrondolas, serpents, the King and Queene's armes and 
 mottos, all represented in fire, such as had not ben seen here. But the 
 most remarkable was the severall fires and skirmishes in the very 
 water, which actually mov'd a long way, burning under the water, now 
 and then appearing above it, giving reports like muskets and cannon, 
 with granados and innumerable other devices. It is said it cost ;^.l5oo. 
 It was concluded with a ball, where all the young ladys and gallants 
 daunced in the greate hall. The Court had not ben scene so brave and 
 rich in apparell since his Majesty's Restauration. 
 
 30. In the morning Dr. Fiennes, sonn of the Lord Say & Seale, 
 preached before the King on 21 Joshua 11. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 46 1 
 
 3 Dec. I carried Mr. Justell and Mr. Slingsby (Master of the Mint), 
 to see Mr. Sheldon's collection of Medaills. The series of Popes was 
 rare, and so were several amongst the modernes, especialy that of John 
 Husse's martyrdome at Constance ; of the Ronaan Emp. Consulars ; 
 some Greeke, &c. in copper, gold, and silver ; not many truly antique ; 
 a medallion of Otho, P. ^mil. &c. hardly antient. They were held at 
 a price of ^.1000, but not worth, I judge, above ^.200. 
 
 7. I went to see the new church at St. James's, elegantly built ; the 
 altar was especialy adorn'd, the white marble inclosure curiously and 
 richly carved, the flowers and garlands about the walls by Mr. Gibbons 
 in wood ; a pelican with her young at her breast, just over tha altar in 
 the carv'd compartment and border, invironing the purple velvet 
 fring'd with I. H. S. richly embroider'd, and most noble plate, were 
 given by Sir R. Geere, to the value (as was said) of ^.200. There 
 was no altar any where in England, nor has there ben any abroad, more 
 handsomely adorn'd. 
 
 17. Early in the morning I went into St. James's Park to see three 
 Turlcish or Asian horses, newly brought over, and now first shewed to 
 his Majesty. There were foure, but one of them died at sea, being 
 three weekes coming from Hamborow. They were taken from a 
 Bashaw at the siege of Vienna, at the late famous raising that leaguer. 
 I never beheld so delicate a creature as one of them was, of somewhat 
 a bright bay, two white feet, a blaze ; such a head, eyes, eares, neck, 
 breast, belly, haunches, legs, pasterns, and feete, in all reguards beauti- 
 fuU and proportion'd to admiration ; spirited, proud, nimble, making 
 halt, turning with that swiftnesse, and in so small a compasse, as was 
 admirable. With all this so gentle and tractable as call'd to mind 
 what I remember Busbequius speakes of them, to the reproch of our 
 groomes in Europe, who bring up their horses so churlishly as makes 
 most of them retain their ill habits. They trotted like does, as if they 
 did not feele the ground. 500 ginnies was demanded for the first ; 300 
 for the second ; and 200 for the third, which was browne. All of them 
 were choicely shap'd, but the two last not altogether so perfect as the 
 first. It was judg'd by the spectators, among whom was the King, 
 Prince of Denmark, Duke of Yorke, and several of the Court, noble 
 persons, skill'd in horses, especialy Mons. Faubert and his sonn, (pro- 
 vost masters of the Academic, and esteem'd of the best in Europe,) 
 that there were never seene any horses in these parts to be compar'd 
 with them. Add to all this, the furniture, consisting of embroidery on 
 the saddle, houseings, quiver, bow, arrows, scymeter, sword, mace, or 
 battle-axe A la Turcisq; the Bashaw's velvet mantle furr'd with the 
 most perfect ermine I ever beheld ; all which, yron-worke in common 
 furniture, being here of silver, curiously wrought and double gilt, to an 
 incredible value. Such and so extraordinary was the embrodery, that 
 1 never saw any thing approching it. The reins and headstall were ot 
 
462 LORD CORNWALLIS ; THE GYMNASIUM ; DUELLING IN ENGLAND, 
 
 crimson silk, cover'd with chaines of silver gilt. There was also a 
 Turkish royal standard of an horse's taile, together with all sorts of 
 other caparisons belonging to a general's horse, by which one may 
 estimate how gallantly and magnificently those infidels appeare in the 
 field, for nothing could be seene more glorious. The gentleman (a 
 German) who rid the horse was in all this garb. They were shod with 
 yron made i"ound and closed at the heele, with a hole in the middle 
 about as wide as a shilling. The hoofes most intirc. 
 
 1 8 Dec. I went with Lord Cornwallis to see the young gallants do 
 their exercise, Mr. Faubert having newly rail'd in a manage, and fitted 
 it for the academy. There were the Dukes of Norfolk and Northum- 
 berland, Lord Newburgh, and a nephew of (Duras) Earle of Feversham. 
 The exercises were, l. running at the ring ; 2. flinging a javelin at a 
 Moor's head ; 3. discharging a pistol at a mark ; lastly, taking up a 
 gauntlet with the point of a sword ; all these perform'd in full speede. 
 The D. of Northumberland hardly miss'd of succeeding in every one, a 
 dozen times, as I think. The D. of Norfolk did exceeding bravely. 
 Lords Newburgh and Duras seem'd nothing so dextrous. Here I saw 
 the difference of what the French call " bel homme A cheval" and 
 " bon homme a chevalj" the Duke of Norfolk being the first, that is, 
 rather a fine person on a horse, the Duke of Northumberland being 
 both in perfection, namely, a graceful person and excellent rider. But 
 the Duke of Norfolk told me he had not ben at this exercise these 12 
 yeares before. There were in the field the Prince of Denmark, and the 
 Lord Landsdown, sonn of the Earle of Bath, who had ben made a 
 Count of the Empire last Summer for his service before Vienna. 
 
 20. A villainous murder was perpetrated by Mr. St. John, eldest 
 son to Sir Walter St. John, a. worthy gentleman, on a knight ol quality', 
 in a tavern. The offender was sentenc'd and repriev'd. So many 
 horrid murders and duels were committed about this time as were never 
 before heard of in England, which gave much cause of complaint and 
 murmurings. 
 
 16S5. I Jan. It prov'd so sharp weather, and so long and cruel a 
 frost, that the Thames was frozen acrosse, but the frost was often dis- 
 solv'd, and then froze again. 
 
 II. A young man preached upon 13 St. Luke 5. after the Presby- 
 terian tedious method and repetition. 
 
 24, I din'd at Lord Newport's, who has some excellent pictures, 
 especialy that of Sir The. Hanmer, by Van Dyke, one of the best he 
 ever painted; another of our English Dobson's painting; but above 
 
 ! oir William Estcourt. Itwaiji a sudden quarrel, and there was doubt whether it was 
 more than manslaughter ; but he was advised tc plead guilty, and then had a pardon, for 
 which he paid ^i,6oo. Exactly too years before, one of his family was tried for a similaf 
 offence, acquitted, but obliged to go .ibroad, though he was afterwards employed. Manning 
 and Bray's Hist, of Surrey, III. 333, App. cxx. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 463 
 
 all, Christ in the Virgin's lap by Poussin, an admirable piece, with 
 something of most other famous hands. 
 
 25. Dr. Dove preach'd before the King. I saw this evening such a 
 scene of profuse gaming, and the King in the midst of his three con- 
 cubines, as I had never before seen. Luxurious dallying and pro- 
 phanenesse. 
 
 27. I din'd at Lord Sunderland's, being invited to heare that cele- 
 brated voice of Mr. Pordage, newly come from Rome ; his singing 
 was after the Venetian recitative, as masterly as could be, and with an 
 excellent voice both treble and basse ; Dr. Walgrave accompanied it 
 with his theorba lute, on which he perform'd beyond imagination, and 
 is doubtlesse one of the greatest masters in Europe on that charming in- 
 strument. Pordage is a priest, as Mr. Bernard Howard told me in 
 private. 
 
 There was in the roome where we din'd, and in his bed-chamber, 
 those incomparable pieces of Columbus a Flagellation, the Grantmar- 
 schoole, the Venus and Adonis of Titian ; and of Vandyke's that pic- 
 ture of the late E. of Digby {iaXh^r oith& Countess of Sunderland), 
 and Earle of Bedford, Sir Kenelm Digby, and two Ladys of incom- 
 parable performance ; besides that of Moses and the burning bush of 
 Bassano, and several other pieces of the best masters. A marble head 
 of M. Brutus, &c. 
 
 28. I was invited to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, (now newly 
 releas'd of his 6 yeares confinement in the Tower on suspicion of the 
 Plot call'd Oates's Plot,) where after dinner the same Mr. Pordage 
 entertain'd us with his voice, that excellent and stupendous artist Sig- 
 nior Jo. Baptist playing to it on the harpsichord. My daughter Mary 
 
 _ being with us, she also sung to the greate satisfaction of both the 
 masters, and a world of people of quality present. 
 
 She did so also at my Lord Rochester's the evening following, where 
 we had the French Boy so fam'd for his singing, and indeede he had 
 la delicate voice, and had ben well taught. I also heard Mrs. Packer 
 '(daughter to my old friend) sing before his Majesty and the Duke, pri- 
 vately, that stupendous basse Gosling accompanying her, but hers was 
 so loud as tooke away much of the sweetnesse. Certainly never woman 
 had a stronger or better eare, could she possibly have govern'd it. She 
 would do rarely in a large church among the nunns. 
 
 4 Feb. I went to London, hearing his Majesty had ben the Monday 
 before (2 Feb.) surpriz'd in his bed-chamber v.-ith an apoplectic fit, so 
 that if, by God's providence. Dr. King (that excellent chirurgeon as 
 well as physitian) had not ben accidentally present to let him blood 
 (having his lancet in his pocket) his Majesty had certainly died that 
 moment, which might have ben of direful consequence, there being no- 
 body else present with the King save this Doctor and one more, as I 
 am assur'd. It was a mark of the extraordinary dexterity, resolution, 
 
464 DANGEROUS ILLNESS AND DEATH OF CHARLES II, 
 
 and presence of mind in the Doctor, to let him bloud in the very pa> 
 roxysm, without staying the coming of other physitians, which regularly 
 should have ben don, and for want of which he must have a regular par- 
 don, as they tell me '. This rescu'd his Majesty for the instant, but it was 
 only a short reprieve. He still complain'd, and was relapsing, often 
 fainting, with sometimes epileptic symptoms, till Wednesday, for which 
 he was cupp'd, let bloud in both jugulars, had both vomit and purges, 
 which so reliev'd him that on Thursday hopes of recovery were signified 
 in the publiq Gazette, but that day, about noone, the physitians thought 
 him feaverish. This they seem'd glad of, as being more easily allay'd 
 and methodically dealt with than his former fits ; so as they prescrib'd 
 the famous Jesuits powder : but it made him worse, and some very 
 able Doctors who were present did not think it a fever, but the effect 
 of his frequent bleeding and other sharp operations us'd by them about 
 his head, so that probably the powder might stop the circulation, and 
 renew his former fits, which now made him very weake. Thus he 
 pass'd Thursday night with greate difficulty, when complaining of a 
 paine in his side, they drew 12 ounces more of blood from him ; this 
 was by 6 in the morning on Friday, and it gave him reliefe, but it did 
 not continue, for being now in much paine, and struggUng for breath, 
 he lay dozing, and after some conflicts, the physitians despai'''"g of him^ 
 he gave up the ghost at halfe an houre after eleven in the moriiing, being 
 6 Feb. 1685, in the 36th yeare of his reigne, and 54th of his age. 
 
 Prayers were solemnly made in all the Churches, especialy in both 
 the Court Chapells, where the Chaplaines reliev'd one another every 
 halfe quarter of an houre from the time he began to be in danger till 
 he expir'd, according to the forme prescrib'd in the Church Offices. 
 Those who assisted his Majesty's devotions were, the Abp. of Canter- 
 bury, the Bishops of London, Durham, and Ely, but more especialy 
 Dr. Ken, the Bp. of Bath and Wells'. It is sayd they exceedingly 
 
 ^ The Privy Council approved of what he had done, and ordered him ;^Jooo, but which was 
 never paid him. Burnet, II. loio*. — There are two fine portraits of Dr. King engraved, and 
 in mezzotinto, in which the above insta nee of his skill and promptitude is noticed. 
 
 2 The account given of this by King James II. is, that when the King's life was wholly de- 
 spaired of, and it was time to prepare for another world, two Bishops came to do their func- 
 tion, who reading the prayers appointed in the Common Prayer Book on that occasion, when 
 they came to the place where usually they exhort a sick person to make a confession of his 
 sins, the Bishop of Bath and Wells, who was one of them, advertized him, It was not of obli- 
 gation ; and after a short exhortation asked him, if he were sorry for his sins ? which the 
 King saying he was, the Bishop pronounced the absolution, and then asked him if he pleased 
 to receive the Sacrament ? to which the King made no reply, and being pressed by the Bishop 
 several times, gave no other answer but that it was time enough, or that he would think of it. 
 King James says that he stood all the while by the bed-side, and seeing the King would not 
 receive the Sacrament from them, and knowing his sentiments, he desired the company to 
 stand a little from the bed, and then asked the King whether he should send for a Priest, to 
 which the King replied, ' For God's sake, brother, do, and lose no time.* The Duke said he 
 would bring one to him : but none could be found except father Huddleston, who had been 
 so assistant ir, the King's escape from Worcester ; he was brought up by a back staircase, and 
 the company were desired to withdraw, buthe^tbe Duke of York) not thinking fit that he 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 46$ 
 
 ni^g'd the receiving the Holy Sacrament, but his Majesty told them he 
 would consider of it, which he did so long 'till it was too late. Others 
 whisper'd that the Bishops and Lords, except the Earles of Bath and 
 Feversham, being order'd to withdraw the night before, Hurlston, the 
 Priest, had presumed to administer the Popish Offices. He gave his 
 breeches and keys to the Duke, who was almost continually kneeling 
 by his bed-side, and in teares. He also recommended to him the care 
 of his natural children, all except the Duke of Monmouth, now in 
 Holland, and in his displeasure. He intreated the Queene to pardon 
 him (not without cause) ; who a little before had sent a Bishop to 
 excuse her not more frequently visiting him, in regard of her excessive 
 griefe, and withall, that his Majesty would forgive it if at any time she 
 had offended him. He spake to the Duke of York to be kind to the 
 Dutchesse of Cleaveland, and especialy Portsmouth, and that Nelly 
 might not starve. 
 
 Thus died King Charles II. of a vigorous and robust constitution, 
 and in all appearance promising a long Ufe. He was a Prince of many 
 virtues, and many greate imperfections ; debonnaire, easy of accesse, 
 not bloudy nor cruel ; his countenance fierce, his voice greate, proper 
 of person, every motion became him ; a lover of the sea, and skilful! 
 in shipping ; not affecting other studies, yet he had a laboratory, and 
 knew of many empirical medicines, and the easier mechanical mathe- 
 matics ; he lov'd planting and building, and brought in a politer way 
 of living, which pass'd to luxury and intolerable expense. He had a 
 particular talent in telling a story, and facetious passages, of which he 
 had innumerable ; this made some buffoons and vitious wretches too 
 presumptuous and familiar, not worthy the favour they abus'd. He 
 tooke delight in having a number of little spaniels follow him and lie 
 in his bed-chamber, where he often suffer'd the bitches to puppy and 
 give suck, which render'd it very offensive, and indeede made the whole 
 Court nasty and stinking. He would doubtlesse have ben an excellent 
 Prince, had he ben less addicted to women, who made him uneasy, and 
 allways in want to supply their unmeasurable profusion, to the detri- 
 ment of many indigent persons who had signaly serv'd both him and 
 his father. He frequently and easily chang'd favorites, to his greate 
 prejudice. As to other publiq transactions and unhappy miscarriages, 
 'tis not here I intend to number them ; but certainly never had King 
 more glorious opportunities to have made himselfe, his people, and all 
 Europe happy, and prevented innumerable mischiefs, had not his too 
 easy nature resign'd him to be manag'd by crafty men, and some 
 abandon'd and profane wretches who corrupted his otherwise sufficient 
 parts, disciplin'd as he had ben by many afflictions during his banish- 
 
 ^ould be left alone with the King, desired the Earl of Bath, a Lord of the Bedchamber, 
 and the Earl of Faversham, Captain of the Guard, should stay ; the rest being gone, father 
 Huddleston was introduced, and administered the Sacrament. Life of James II. p. 747. 
 
 30 
 
4-66 LAST HOURS, FAULTS AND CHARACTER OF THE LATZ KING. 
 
 mcnt, which gave him much experience and knowledge of men and 
 things ; but those wicked creatures took him off from all application 
 becoming so greate a King. The history of his reigne will certainely 
 be the most wonderful! for the variety of matter and accidents, above 
 any extant in former ages : the sad tragical death of his father, his 
 banishment and hardships, his miraculous restauration, conspiracies 
 against him, parUaments, wars, plagues, fires, comets, revolutions 
 abroad happening in his time, with a thousand other particulars. He 
 was ever kind to me, and very gracious upon all occasions, and there- 
 fore I cannot, without ingratitude, but deplore his losse, which for many 
 respects as well as duty I do with all my soul. 
 
 His Majesty being dead, the Duke, now K. James II. went imme- 
 diately to Council, and before entering into any businesse, passionately 
 declaring his sorrow, told their Lordships that since the succession had 
 fallen to him, he would endeavour to follow the example of his prede- 
 cessor in his clemency and tendernesse to his people ; that, however he 
 had ben misrepresented as affecting arbitrary power, they should find 
 the contrary, for that the laws of England had made the King as greate 
 a monarch as he could desire ; that he would endeavor to maintain the 
 Government both in Church and State, as by Law established, its prin- 
 ciples being so firme for monarchy, and the members of it shewing 
 themselves so good and loyal subjects ;' and that as he would never 
 
 1 Tliis is ihe substance and very nearly in the words given by King James IL in his MSS. 
 printed in his Life ; but in that MSS. are some words which Mr, Evelyn has omitted, viz. 
 after speaking of the Members of the Church of England as good and loyal subjects, the King 
 adds, and therefore I shall always take care to defend and support it. The King then goes 
 on to say, that being desired by some present to allow copies to be taken, he said he had not 
 committed it to writing ; on which Mr. Finch [then Solicitor General, afterwards Earl of 
 AylesfordJ replied, that what his Majesty had said had made so deep an impression on him, 
 that he believed he could repeat the very words, and if his Majesty would permit him, he 
 would write them down; which the King agreeing to, he went to a table and wrote them 
 down, and this being shewn to the King, he approved of it, and it was immediately 
 published. 
 
 The King then goes on to say ; No one can wonder that Mr. Finch should word the speech 
 as strong as he could in favour of the Established Religion, nor that the King in such a hurry 
 should pass it over without reflection : for though his Majesty intended to promise both se- 
 curity to their religion and protection to their persons, he was afterwards convinced it had 
 been better expressed by assuring them he never would endeavour to alter the established 
 Religion, rather than that he would endeavour to preserve it, and that he would rather support 
 and defend the professors of it, rather than the Religion itself; they could not expect he 
 should make a conscience of supporting what in his conscience he thought erromeous ; his 
 engaging not to molest the professors of it, nor to deprive them or their successors of any 
 Bpiritual dignity, revenue, or employment, but to suffer the ecclesiastical affairs to go on in 
 the track they were in, was all they could wish or desire from a Prince of a different persua- 
 sion ; but having once approved that way of expressing it which Mr. Finch Iiad made choice 
 of, he thought it necessary not to vary from it in the declarations or speeches he made after- 
 wards, not doubting but the world would understand it in the meaning he intended. — 'Tis 
 true afterwards it was pretended he kept not up to this engagement, but had they deviated 
 no further from the duty and allegiance which both nature and repeated oaths obliged them 
 to, titan he did/rom his word, * they had still remained as happy a people as they really were 
 during his short reign in England. Vol. II. 435. 
 
 * The words in italics were afterwards interlined by the son of King James the Second. Edit. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 467 
 
 depart from the just rights and prerogatives of the Crown, so would he 
 never invade any man's property ; but as he had often adventur'd his 
 life in defence of the nation, so he would still proceede, and preserve 
 it in all its lawful rights and liberties. 
 
 This being the substance of what he said, the Lords desir'd it might 
 be publish'd, as containing matter of greate satisfaction to a jealous 
 people upon this change, which his Majesty consented to. Then were 
 the Council sworn, and a Proclamation order'd to be publish'd, that all 
 Officers should continue in their stations, that there might be no failure 
 of public justice, till his further pleasure should be known. Then the 
 King rose, the Lords accompanying him to his bed-chamber, where, 
 whilst he repos'd himselfe, tired indeede as he was with griefe and 
 watching, they return'd againe into the Council-chamber to take order 
 for the proclaiming his Majesty, which (after some debate) they con- 
 sented should be in the very forme his grandfather K. James I. was, 
 after the death of Queene Elizabeth ; as likewise that the Lords, &c. 
 should proceede in their coaches thro' the Citty for the more solemnity 
 of it. Upon this was I, and severall other Gentlemen waiting in the 
 Privy-gallerie, admitted into the Council-chamber to be .witnesse of 
 what was resolv'd on. Thence with the Lords, the Lord Marshall ,and 
 Heraulds, and other Crowne Officers being ready, we first went to 
 White-hall-gate, where the Lords stood on foote bare-headed, whilst 
 the Herauld proclaim'd his Majesty's title to the Imperial Crowne and 
 Succession according to the forme, the trumpets and kettle-drums 
 having first sounded 3 times, which ended with the people's acclama- 
 tions. Then a Herauld call'd the Lords' coaches according to rank, 
 myselfe accompanying the solemnity in my Lord Cornwallis's coach, 
 first to Temple Barr, where the Lord Maior and his brethren met us on 
 horseback, in all theire formalities, and proclaim'd the King ; hence to 
 the Exchange in Cornhill, and so we return'd in the order we set forth. 
 Being come to White-hall, we all went and kiss'd the King and Queenes 
 hands. He had ben on the bed, but was now risen and in his undresse. 
 The Queene was in bed in her appartment, but put forth her hand, 
 seeming to be much afflicted, as I believe she was, having deported 
 herselfe so decently upon all occasions since she came into England, 
 which made her universally belov'd. 
 
 Thus concluded this sad and not joyfull day. 
 
 I can never forget the inexpressible luxury and prophanenesse, 
 gaming and all dissoluteness, and as it were total forgetfullnesse of God 
 (it being Sunday evening) which this day se'nnight I was witnesse of, 
 the King sitting and toying with his concubines, Portsmouth, Cleave- 
 land, and Mazarine, &c. a French boy singing love songs, in that 
 glorious gallery, whilst about 20 of the greate courtiers and other dis- 
 solute persons were at Basset round a large table, a bank of at least 
 
468 PROCLAMATION OF JAMES II. FUNERAL OF CHARLES H. 
 
 2CXX) in gold before them, upon which two gentlemen who were 
 with me made reflexions with astonishment. Six days after was all in 
 the dust ! 
 
 It was enjoyn'd that those who put on mourning should wear it as foi 
 a father, in the most solemn manner. 
 
 lo Feb. Being sent to by the Sheriff of the County to appeare and 
 assist in proclayming the King, I went the next day to Bromely, where 
 I met the Sheriff and the Commander of the Kentish Troop, with an 
 appearance, I suppose, of above 500 horse, and innumerable people, 
 two of his Majesty's trumpets and a Serjeant with other officers, who 
 having drawn up the horse in a large field neere the towne, march'd 
 thence, with swords drawne, to the market-place, where making a ring, 
 after sound of trumpets and silence made, the High Sheriff read the 
 proclaiming titles to his Bailiffe, who repeated them aloud, and then 
 after many shouts of the people, his Majesty's health being drunk in a 
 flint glasse of a yard long, by the Sheriff, Commander, Officers and 
 cheife Gentlemen, they all dispers'd, and I return'd. 
 
 13. I pass'd a fine on selling of Honson Grange in Staffordshire, 
 being about £.10 per ann., which lying so greate a distance I thought 
 fit to part with it to one Burton, a farmer there. It came to me as part 
 of my daughter-in-law's portion, this being but a fourth part of what 
 was divided betweene the mother and three sisters. 
 
 14. The King was this night very obscurely buried' in a vault 
 under Hen. yth's Chapell at Westminster, without any manner of pomp, 
 and soone forgotten after all this vanity, and the face of the whole 
 Court was exceedingly chang'd into a more solemn and moral beha- 
 viour ; the new King affecting neither prophanenesse nor buffoonery. 
 All the greate Officers broke their staves over the grave, according to 
 form. 
 
 15. Dr. Tenison preach'd to the Household. The second sermon 
 should have ben before the King ; but he, to the greate griefe of his 
 subjects, did now for the first time go to masse publickly in the little 
 Oratorie at the Duke's lodgings, the doors being set wide open. 
 
 16. I din'd at Sir Robert Howard's, Auditor of the Exchequer, a 
 gentleman pretending to all manner of arts and sciences, for which he 
 had ben the subject of Comedy, under the name of Sir Positive ; not 
 ill-natur'd, but insufferably boasting. He was sonn to the late Earl of 
 Berkshire. 
 
 ^ The funeral could not be perfonned with so great solemnity as some persons expected, 
 because his late Majesty dying in, and his present Majesty professing, a different Religion 
 from that of his people, it had been a difficult matter to reconcile the greater ceremonies which 
 must have been performed according to the Rites of the Church of England, with the obliga- 
 tion of not communicating with it in spiritual things : to avoid, theieiore, either disputes on 
 one hand, or scandal on the other, it was thought more prudent to do it in a more private man- 
 ner, though at the same time there was no circumstance of state and pomp omuted, which 
 possibly could be allowed of. All the Privy Council, all the household, and 2\\ the Loi ds abou> 
 lowne attended at the funeral. Life of King James II. vol. II. p. 6. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 469 
 
 17. This morning his Majesty restor'd the staffe and key to Lord 
 Arlington, Chamberlaine ; to Mr. Savill, Vice-chamberlaine ; to Lords 
 Newport and Mainard, Treasurer and Comptroler of the Household; 
 Lord Godolphin made Chamberlaine to the Queene ; Lord Peterborow 
 Groome of the Stole in place of theEarleofBath ; the Treasurer's staff 
 to the Earle of Rochester ; and his brother the Earle of Clarendon 
 Lord Privie Seale in place of the Marquis of Halifax, who was made 
 President of the Council ; the Secretarys of State remaining as before. 
 
 19. The Lord Treasurer and the other new Officers were sworneat 
 the Chancery Barr and the Exchequer. 
 
 The late King having the revenue of Excise, Costoms, and other late 
 duties granted for his life only, they were now farmed and lett to seve- 
 rall persons, upon an opinion that the late King might lett them for 
 three yeares after his decease ; some of the old Commissioners refus'd 
 to act. The lease was made but the day before the King died ' ; the 
 major part of the Judges (but as some think not the best Lawyers) pro- 
 nounc'd it legal, but four dissented. 
 
 The Clerk of the Closet had shut up the late King's private Oratorie 
 next the Privy-chamber above, but the King caus'd it to be open'd 
 againe, and that prayers should be said as formerly. 
 
 22. Several most useful Tracts against Dissenters, Papists, and 
 Fanatics, and Resolutions of Cases, were now publish'd by the London 
 Divines. 
 
 4 Mar. Ash- Wednesday ; after evening prayers I went to London. 
 
 5. To my griefe I saw the new pulpit set up in the Popish Oratorie 
 at White-hall for the Lent preaching, masse being publicly said, and 
 the Romanists swarming at Court with greater confidence than had ever 
 ben seene in England since the Reformation, so as every body grew 
 jealous to what this would tend. 
 
 A Parliament was now summon'd, and greate industry us'd to obtaine 
 elections which might promote the Court interest, most of the Corpo- 
 rations being now by their new Charters impower'd to make what re- 
 turnes of members they pleas'd. 
 
 There came over divers envoys and greate persons to condole the 
 death of the late King, who were receiv'd by the Queene Dowager on 
 a bed of mourning, the whole chamber, deling and floore hung with 
 black, and tapers were lighted, so as nothing could be more lugubrous 
 and solemne. The Queene Consort sat out under a state on a black 
 foot-cloth, to entertaine the circle (as the Queene us'd to do), and that 
 very decently, 
 
 6. Lent Preachers continu'd as formerly in the Royal Chapell. 
 
 ' King James, in ilis Life, makes no mention of this lease, but only says he continued to 
 collect them, which conduct was not blamed ; but on the contrary, he was thanked for it in aa 
 address from the Middle Temple, Denned by Sir Bartholomew Shore, and presented by 
 Sir Humphrey Mackwortb, carrying great authority with it, nor did the Parliament find latilt- 
 Vol. II. pp. i^t vj. 
 
470 DEATH, ACCOMPLISHMENTS AND VIRTUE OF MY DAUGHTER MARY, 
 
 7. My daughter Mary was taken with the small pox, and there sooa 
 was found no hope of her recovery. A very greate affliction to me : but 
 God's holy will be done. 
 
 10. She receiv'd the blessed Sacrament ; after which, disposing 
 herselfe to suffer what God should determine to inflict, she bore the 
 remainder of her sicknesse with extraordinary patience and piety, and 
 more than ordinary resignation and blessed frame of mind. She died 
 the 14th, to our unspeakable sorrow and affliction, and not to ours 
 onely, but that of all who knew her, who were many of the best quality, 
 greatest and most virtuous persons. The justnesse of her stature, person, 
 comelinesse of countenance, gracefullnesse of motion, unaffected tho' 
 more than ordinary beautifull, were the least of her ornaments compared 
 with those of her mind. Of early piety, singularly religious, spending 
 a part of every day in private devotion, reading and other vertuous exer- 
 cises : she had collected and written out many of the most usefuU and 
 judicious periods of the books she read in a kind of common-place, as 
 out of Dr. Hammond on the New Testament, and most of the best 
 practical treatises. She had read and digested a considerable deale of 
 history and of places. The French tongue was as familiar to her as 
 English ; she understood Italian, and was able to render a laudable 
 account of what she read and observed, to which assisted a most faith- 
 ful memory and discernment ; and she did make very prudent and dis- 
 creete reflections upon what she had observed of the conversations 
 among which she had at any time ben, which being continualy of per- 
 sons of the best quality, she- thereby improved. She had an excellent 
 voice, to which she play'd a thorough bass on the harpsichord, in both 
 which she arived to that perfection, that of the schoUars of those two 
 famous masters Signiors Pietro and Bartholomeo she was esteem'd the 
 best ; for the sweetnesse of her voice and management of it added such 
 an agreeablenesse to her countenance, without any constraint or con- 
 ceme, that when she sung, it was as charming to the eye as to the eare ; 
 this I rather note, because it was a universal remarke, and for which so 
 many noble and judicious persons in musiq desired to heare her, the 
 last being at Lord Arundel's of Wardour. What shall I say, or rather 
 not say, of the cheerefullness and agreeablenesse of her humour .' con- 
 descending to the meanest servant in the family, or others, she still kept 
 up respect, without the least pride. She would often reade to them, 
 examine, instruct, and pray with them if they were sick, so as she was 
 exceedingly beloved of every body. Piety was so prevalent an ingre- 
 dient in her constitution (as I may say) that even amongst equals and 
 superiors she no sooner became intimately acquainted, but she would 
 endeavour to improve them, by insinuating something of religious, and 
 that tended to bring them to a love of devotion ; she had one or two 
 confidents with whom she used to passe whole dayes in fasting, reading, 
 and prayers, especialy before the monethly communion and other 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 471 
 
 solemn occasions. She abhorr'd flattery, and tho' shi had aboundance 
 of witt, the raillery was so innocent and ingenuous that it was most agree- 
 able ; she sometimes would see a play, but since the stage grew licen- 
 tious, express'd herselfe weary of them, and the time spent at the theater 
 was an unaccountable vanity. She never play'd at cards without ex- 
 treame importunity and for the company, but this was so very seldome 
 that I cannot number it among any thing she could name a fault. No 
 one could read prose or verse better or with more judgment ; and as 
 she read, so she writ, not only most correct orthography, with that 
 maturitie of judgment and exactnesse of the periods, choice of ex- 
 pressions, and familiarity of stile, that some letters of hers have 
 astonish'd me and others to whom she has occasionally written. She had 
 a talent of rehersing any comical part or poeme, as to them she might 
 be decently free with was more pleasing than heard on the theater ; she 
 daunc'd with the greatest grace I had ever seene, and so would her 
 master say, who was Monsieur Isaac ; but she seldome sheVd that per- 
 fection, save in the gracefullnesse of her carriage, which was with an 
 aire of spritely modestie not easily to be described. Nothing affected, but 
 natural and easy as well in her deportment as in her discourse, which 
 was always materiall, not trifling, and to which the extraordinary sweet- 
 nesse of her tone, even in familiar speaking, was very charming. No- 
 thing was so pretty as her descending to play with little children, whom 
 she would caresse and humour with greate delight. But she most 
 affected to be with grave and sober men, of whom she might learne 
 something, and improve herselfe. I have ben assisted by her in reading 
 and praying by me ; comprehensive of uncommon notions, curious of 
 knowing every thing to some excesse, had I not sometimes repressed 
 it Nothing was so delightfull to her as to go into my study, where she 
 would willingly have spent whole dayes, for as I sayd she had read 
 aboundance of history, and all the best poets, even Terence, Plautus, 
 Homer, Virgil, Horace, Ovid ; all the best romances and modern 
 poemes ; she could compose happily, and put in pretty symbols, as in. 
 the Mundus Mtiliebris, (a poem of Evelyn's) wherein is an enumeration 
 of the immense variety of the modes and ornaments belonging to the 
 sex ; but all these are vaine trifles to the virtues which adorn'd her 
 soule ; she was sincerely religious, most dutifull to her parents, whom 
 she lov'd with an affection tempered with greate esteeme, so as we were 
 easy and free, and never were so well pleas'd as when she was with 
 us, nor needed we other conversation ; she was kind to her sisters, 
 and was still improving them by her constant course of piety. Oh 
 deare, sweete, and desireable child, how shall I part with all this good- 
 ness and virtue without the bittemesse of sorrow and reluctancy of a 
 tender parent ! Thy affection, duty, and love to me was that of a 
 friend as well as a child. Nor lesse deare to thy mother, whose ex- 
 ample and tender care of thee was unparellel'd, nor was thy retume 
 
472 MY RESIGNATION UNDER SEVERE DOMESTIC TRIiVL. 
 
 to her lesse conspicuous ; Oh ! how she mourns thy loss ! howdesolatf 
 hast thou left us ! To the grave shall we both carry thy memory ! 
 
 God alone (in whose bosom thou art at rest and happy !) give us to 
 resigne thee and all our contentments (for thou indeede wert all in this 
 world) to his blessed pleasure ! Let him be glorified by our submission, 
 and give us grace to blesse him for the graces he implanted in thee, thy 
 virtuous life, pious and holy death, which is indeede the onely comfort 
 of our soules, hastening thro' the infinite love and mercy of the Lord 
 Jesus to be shortly with thee, deare child, and with thee and those 
 blessed saints like thee, glorifye the Redeemer of the world to all eter- 
 nity ! Amen ! 
 
 It was in the 19th year of her age that this sicknesse happen'd to her. 
 An accident contributed to this disease ; she had an apprehension of it 
 in particular, and which struck her but two days before she came home, 
 by an imprudent gentlewoman whom she went with Lady Falkland to 
 visite, who after they had ben a good while in the house, told them she 
 had a servant sick of the small pox (who indeede died the next day) ; 
 this my poore child acknowledg'd made an impression on her spirits. 
 There were foure gentlemen of quality offering to treate with me about 
 marriage, and I freely gave her her owne choice knowing her discre- 
 tion. She showed great indifference to marrying at all, for truly, says 
 she to her mother (the other day), were I assur'd of your life and my 
 deare father's, never would I part from you ; I love you and this home, 
 where we serve God, above all things, nor ever shall I be so happy: 
 I know and consider the vicissitudes of the world, I have some expe- 
 rience of its vanities, and but for decency more than inclination, and 
 that you judge it expedient for me, I would not change my condition, 
 but rather add the fortune you designe me to my sisters, and keepe up 
 the reputation of our family. This was so discreetly and sincerely 
 utter'd that it could not but proceede from an extraordinary child and 
 one who lov'd her parents beyond example. 
 
 At London she tooke this fatal disease, and the occasion of her being 
 there was this ; my Lord Viscount Falkland's Lady having ben our 
 neighbour (as he was Treasurer of the Navy), she tooke so greate an 
 affection to my daughter, that when they went back in the autumn to 
 the Citty, nothing would satisfie their incessant importunity but letting 
 her accompany my Lady, and staying sometime with her ; it was with 
 the greatest reluctance I complied. Whilst she was there, my Lord 
 being musical, when I saw my Lady would not part with her till Christ- 
 mas, I was not unwilling she should improve the opportunity of learn- 
 ing of Signior Pietro, who had an admirable way both of composure 
 and teaching. It was the end of February before I could prevail with 
 my Lady to part with her ; but my Lord going into Oxfordshire to 
 stand for Knight of the Shire there, she express'd her wish to come 
 tome, being tir'd of the vain and empty conversation of the towne, the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 473 
 
 theatres, the court, and trifling visites which consum'd so much precious 
 time, and made her sometimes misse of that regular course of piety 
 that gave her the greatest satisfaction. She was weary of this hfe, and 
 I think went not thrice to Court all this time, except when her mother 
 or I carried her. She did not affect shewing herselfe, she knew the 
 Court well, and pass'd one summer in it at Windsor with Lady Tuke 
 one of the Queene's women of the bed chamber (a most virtuous re- 
 lation of hers) ; she was not fond of that glittering scene, now become 
 abominably licentious, though there was a designe of Lady Rochester 
 and Lady Clarendon to have made her a maid of honour to the Queene 
 as soon as there was a vacancy. But this she did not set her heart 
 upon, nor indeede on any thing so much as the service of God, a quiet 
 and regular life, and how she might improve herselfe in the most ne- 
 cessary accomplishments, and to which she was arriv'd at so greate 
 a measure. 
 
 This is the little history and imperfect character of my deare child, 
 whose piety, virtue, and incomparable endowments deserve a monu- 
 ment more durable than brasse and marble. Precious is the memo- 
 rial of the just. Much I could enlarge on every period of this hasty 
 account, but that I ease and discharge my overcoming passion for the 
 present, so many things worthy an excellent Christian and dutifull child 
 crowding upon me. Never can I say enough, oh deare, my deare child, 
 whose memory is so precious to me ! 
 
 This deare child was born at Wotton in the same house and chamber 
 in which I first drew my breath, my wife having retired to my brother 
 there in the great sicknesse that yeare upon the first of that moneth, 
 and neere the very houre that I was borne, upon the last: viz. October. 
 
 16 March. She was interr'd in the South-east end of the Church at 
 Deptford, neere her grandmother and severall of my younger children 
 and relations. My desire was she should have ben carried and layed 
 among my own parents and relations at Wotton, where I desire to be 
 interr'd myselfe, when God shall call me out of this uncertaine transi- 
 tory life, but some circumstances did not permit it. Our Vicar Dr. 
 Holden preach'd her funeral sermon on l Phil. 21. ' For to me to live 
 is Christ and to die is gaine,' upon which he made an apposite discourse, 
 as those who heard it assur'd me (for griefe suffer'd me not to be pre- 
 sent), concluding with a modest recital of her many virtues and signal 
 piety, so as to draw both teares and admiration from the hearers. I 
 was not altogether unwilling that something of this sort should be 
 spoken for the edification and encouragement of other young people. 
 
 Divers noble persons honour'd her funeral, some in person, others 
 sending their coaches, of which there were six or seven with six horses, 
 ■viz. the Countesse of Sunderland, Earle of Clarendon, Lord Godol- 
 phin, Sir Stephen Fox, Sir William Godolphin, Viscount Falkland, and 
 others. There were distributed amongst her friends about sixty rings. 
 
474 MV DAUGHTER WAS A LITTLE MIRACLE WHEN SHE LIVED. 
 
 Thus li-/d, died, and was buried the joy of my Hfe, and ornamenS 
 of her sex and of my poore family ! God Almighty of his infinite 
 mercy grant me the grace thankfully to resigne myselfe and all I have, 
 or had, to his divine pleasure, and in his good time, restoring health 
 and comfort to my family: 'teach me so to number my days that I 
 may apply my heart to wisdom," be prepar'd for my dissolution, and 
 that into the hands of my blessed Saviour I may recommend my 
 spirit ! Amen ! 
 
 On looking into her closet, it is incredible what a number of collec- 
 tions she had made from historians, poetes, travellers, &c. but above all 
 devotions, contemplations, and resolutions on these contemplations, 
 found under her hand in a booke most methodically dispos'd ; prayers, 
 meditations, and devotions on particular occasions, with many pretty 
 letters to her confidants ; one to a divine (not nam'd) to whom she 
 writes that he would be her ghostly father, and would not despise her 
 for her many errors and the imperfections of her youth, but beg of God 
 to give her courage to acquaint him with all her faults, imploring his 
 assistance and spiritual directions. I well remember she had often de- 
 sir'd me to recommend her to such a person, but I did not think fit 
 to do it as yet, seeing her apt to be scrupulous, and knowing the great 
 innocency and integrity of her life. i 
 
 It is astonishing how one who had acquir'd such substantial and 
 practical knowledge in other ornamental parts of education, especialy 
 music both vocal and instrumental, in dauncing, paying and receiving 
 visites, and necessary conversation, could accomplish halfe of what she 
 has left ; but she never affected play or cards, which consume a world 
 of precious time, so she was in continual exercise, which yet abated 
 nothing of her most agreeable conversation. But she was a little mi- 
 racle while she liv'd, and so she died ! 
 
 1 6 Mar. I was invited to the funerall of Capt. Gunman, that excel- 
 lent pilot and seaman, who had behav'd himselfe so valiantly in the 
 Dutch warr. He died of a gangrene, occasion'd by his fall from the 
 pier of Calais. This was the Captain of the yatcht carrying the Duke 
 (now King) to Scotland, and was accus'd for not giving timely warning 
 when she split on the sands, where so many perish'd ; but I am most 
 confident he was no ways guilty, either of negligence or designe, as he 
 made appeare not onely at the examination of the matter of fact, but 
 in the Vindication he shew'd me, and which must needes give any man 
 of reason satisfaction. He was a sober, frugal, cheerfuU and tempe- 
 rate man ; we have few such seamen left. 
 
 8 April. Being now somewhat compos'd after my greate affliction, 
 I went to London to hear Dr. Tenison (it being on a Wednesday in 
 Lent) at White-hall. I observ'd that tho' the King was not in his 
 seate above in the chapell, the Doctor made his three congees, which 
 they were not us'd to do when the late King was absent, making then 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 475 
 
 one bowing onely. I ask'd the reason ; it was sayd he had a special 
 order so to do. The Princesse of Denmark was in the King's Closet, 
 but sat on the left hand of the chaire, the Clearke of the Closet stand- 
 ing by His Majesty's chaire, as if he had ben present. 
 
 I met the Queene Dowager going now first from White-hall to dwell 
 at Somerset-house. 
 
 This day my brother of Wotton and Mr. Onslow were candidates for 
 Surrey against Sir Adam Brown and my cousin Sir Edward Evelyn, 
 and were circumvented in their election by a trick of the Sheriffs ' 
 taking advantage of my brother's party going out of the small village 
 of Leatherhead to seek shelter and lodging, the afternoone being 
 tempestuous, proceeding to the Election when they were gon ; they 
 expecting the next morning ; whereas before and then they exceeded 
 the other party by many hundreds, as I am assur'd. The Duke of 
 Norfolk led Sir Edw. Evelyn's and Sir Adam Brown's party. For this 
 Parhament, very meane and slight persons (some of them gentlemen's 
 servants, clearkes, and persons neither of reputation nor interest) were 
 set up, but the country would choose my brother whether he would or 
 no, and he miss'd it by the trick above mention'd. Sir Adam Brown 
 was so deafe that he could not heare one word. Sir Edw. Evelyn ^ was 
 an honest gentleman much in favour with his Majesty. 
 
 ID. I went early to White-hall to heare Dr. Tillotson, Deane of 
 Canterbury, preaching on 9 Eccles. 18. I returned in the evening, and 
 visited Lady Tuke, and found with her Sir Geo. Wakeman, the physi- 
 tian, whom I had seene tried and acquitted, amongst the plotters for 
 poisoning the late King, on the accusation of the famous Oates ; and 
 surely I believ'd him guiltlesse. 
 
 14. According to my costome I went to London to passe the holy 
 weeke there. 
 
 17. Good Friday. Dr. Tenison preached at the new church at St. 
 James's, on i Cor. 16, 22, upon the infinite love of God to us, which 
 he illustrated in many instances. The holy Sacrament followed, at 
 which I participated. The Lord make me thankfull. In the after- 
 noone Dr. Spratt, Bp. of Rochester, preached in Whitehall Chapell, 
 the auditory very full of Lords, the two Archbishops, and many 
 others, now drawne to towne upon the occasion of the Coronation 
 and ensuing Parliament. I supp'd with the Countesse of Sunder- 
 land and Lord Godolphin, and returned home. 
 
 23. Was the Coronation of the King and Queene. The solemnity 
 was magnificent, as is set forth in print. The Bp. of Ely preach'd ; 
 
 ' Mr. Samuel Lewen, His name does not appear in the History of Surrey amongst the 
 landowners, but it is there stated that in 1709 Sir William Lewen purchased the rectory of 
 Ewel, and that he was Lord Mayor of London in 1717. Vol. I. 470. 
 
 2 His seat was at Long Ditton, near Kingston, which town had surrendered their charter 
 to King Charles II. about a month before his death. King James appointed Sir Edward 
 tvelyn one of the new Corporation. 
 
476 TITUS GATES TRIED, CONVICTED, WHIPPED, AND PILLORIED. 
 
 but, to the greate sorrow of the people, no Sacrament, as ought to 
 have ben. However the King begins his reigne with greate expecta- 
 lions, and hopes of much reformation as to the late vices and pro 
 phanenesse both of Court and Country. Having ben present at the 
 late King's Coronation, I was not ambitious of seeing this ccremonie. 
 
 3 May. A young man preach'd, going chaplain with Sir Jo. Wi- 
 burn. Governor of Bombay in the East Indies. 
 
 7. I was in Westminster Hall when Oates, who had made such a 
 stir in the kingdom, on his revealing a Plot of the Papists, and alarm'd 
 several ParUaments, and had occasioned the execution of divers Priests, 
 Noblemen, &c. was tried for perjurie at the King's Bench ; but being 
 very tedious, I did not endeavour to see the issue, considering that 
 it would be published. Aboundance of Roman Catholics were in the 
 Hall in expectation of the most gratefull conviction and ruine of a 
 •jerson who had ben so obnoxious to them, and, as I verily believe, 
 had don much mischiefe and greate injury to several by his violent 
 and ill-grounded proceedings ; whilst he was at first so unreasonably 
 blowne up and encouraged, that his insolence was no longer sufferable. 
 
 Mr. Roger L'Estrange (a gentleman whom I had long known, and a 
 person of excellent parts abating some affectations) appearing first 
 against the Dissenters in several Tracts, had now for some yeares 
 turn'd his style against those whom (by way of hateful distinction) they 
 call'd Whiggs and Trimmers, under the title of Observator, which came 
 out 3 or 4 days every weeke, in which sheets, under pretence to serve 
 the Church of England, he gave suspicion of gratifying another party, 
 by several passages which rather kept up animosities than appeas'd 
 them, especialy now that nobody gave the least occasion.' 
 
 10. The Scots valueing themselves exceedingly to have ben the first 
 Parliament call'd by his Majesty, gave the Excise and Costomes to him 
 and his successors for ever; the D. of Queensberry making eloquent 
 speeches, and especialy minding them of a speedy suppression of those 
 late desperate Field-Conventiclers who had done such unheard-of 
 assassinations. In the meane time elections for the ensueing Parlia- 
 ment in England were thought to be very indirectly carried on in most 
 places. God grant a better issue of it than some expect ! 
 
 16. Titus Oates was sentenced to be whipped and pilloried 
 with the utmost severity. 
 
 21 May. I din'd at my Lord Privy Seale's with Sir William Dug- 
 dale, Garter King at Armes, author of the Monasticon and other 
 learned workes : he told me he was 82 yeares of age, and had his sight 
 
 1 In tlie first Dutch war, whilst Mr. Evelyn was one of the Commissioners for siclc aad 
 wounded, Mr. L'Estrange in his Gazette mentioned the barbarous usage of the Dutch prisoners 
 of war : Mr. Evelyn wrote him a very spirited letter, desiring that the Dutch Ambassador 
 (who was then in England) and his friends would visit the prisoners, and examine their provi* 
 •iocs ; and he desir'd Mr. L'Estrange would publish nis vindication in his next number. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 477 
 
 And memory perfect.' There was shewn a draught of the exact shape 
 and dimensions of the Crowne the Queene had been crowned withall, 
 together with the Jewells and pearles ; their weight and value, which 
 amounted to ^.100,658 sterling, attested at the foote of the paper by 
 the jeweller and goldsmith who sett them. 
 
 22. In the morning I went with a French gentleman, and my Lord 
 Privy Seale, to the House of Lords, where we were plac'd by his lord- 
 ship next the Bar, just below the Bishops, very commodiously both for 
 hearing and seeing. After a short space came in the Queene and 
 Princesse of Denmark, and stood next above the Archbishops, at the 
 side of the House on the right hand of the throne. In the interim 
 divers of the Lords, who had not finish'd before, took the Test and 
 usual Oathes, so that her Majesty, the Spanish and other Ambassadors, 
 who stood behind the throne, heard the Pope and worship of the Virgin 
 Mary, &c. renounc'd very decently, as likewise the prayers which fol- 
 low'd, standing all the while. Then came in the King, the Crowne on 
 his head, and being seated, the Commons were introduced, and the 
 House being full, he drew forth a paper containing his speech, which 
 he read distinctly enough, to this effect: 'That he resolv'd to call a 
 Parliament from the moment of his brother's decease, as the best 
 meanes to settle all the concernes of the Nation, so as to be most easy 
 and happy to himselfe and his subjects ; that he would confirme what- 
 ever he had said in his declaration at the first Council concerning his 
 opinion of the principles of the Church of England, for their loyaltie, 
 and would defend and support it, and preserve its government as by 
 law now establish 'd ; that, as he would invade no man's property, so he 
 would never depart from his owne prerogative ; and as he had ventur'd 
 his life in defence of the Nation, so he would proceede to do still ; that, 
 having given this assurance of his care of our Religion (his word was 
 you7- Religion) and Property (which he had not said by chance but 
 solemnly), so he doubted not of suitable retumes of his subjects duty 
 and kindnesse, especialy as to settling his Revenue for life, for the many 
 weighty necessities of government, which he would not suffer to be pre- 
 carious ; that some might possibly suggest that it were better to feede 
 and supply him from time to time only, out of their inclination to fre- 
 quent Parliaments, but that that would be a very improper method to 
 take with him, since the best way to engage him to meete oftener would 
 be always to use him well, and therefore he expected their compliance 
 speedily, that this Session being but short, they might meet againe to 
 satisfaction.' At every period of this the House gave loud shouts. 
 Then he acquainted them with that morning's news of Argyle's being 
 landed in the West Highlands of Scotland from Holland, and the 
 treasonous declaration he had published, which he would communicate 
 
 ^ Sir Isaac Heard, the present Garter King at Anns, is about the same age; and in equ a! 
 possession of his faculties (1816). 
 
478 MEETING AND MEMBERS OF THE HOUSE OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 to them, and that he should take the best care he could it should meete 
 with the reward it deserv'd, not questioning the Parliament's zeale and 
 readinesse to assist him as he desir'd ; at which there follow'd another 
 Vive le Roi, and so his Majesty retir'd. 
 
 So soone as the Commons were return'd and had put themselves into 
 a grand Committee, they immediately put the question, and unanimously 
 voted the Revenue to his Majesty for life. Mr. Seymour made a bold 
 speech against many Elections, and would have had those members 
 who (he pretended) were obnoxious, to withdraw, till they had clear'd 
 the matter of their being legally return'd ; but no one seconded him. 
 The truth is, there were many of the new members whose Elections and 
 Returns were universally censur'd, many of them being persons of no 
 condition or interest in the Nation, or places for which they serv'd, 
 especially in Devon, Cornwall, Norfolk, &c. said to have ben recom- 
 mended by the Court and from the effect of the new charters changing 
 the electors. It was reported that Lord Bath carried down with him 
 [into Cornwall] no fewer than 15 charters, so that some call'd him the 
 Prince Elector : whence Seymour told the House in his speech that if 
 this was digested, they might introduce what religion and lawes they 
 pleas'd, and that tho' he never gave heed to the feares and jealousies 
 of the people before, he now was really apprehensive of Popery. By 
 the printed list of Members of the House 505 there did not appeare to 
 be above 135 who had ben in former Parliaments, especialy that lately 
 held at Oxford. 
 
 in the Lords House Lord Newport made an exception against two 
 or three young Peeres, who wanted some moneths, and some only four 
 or five daies of being of age. 
 
 The Popish Lords who had ben sometime before releas'd from their 
 confinement about the Plot, were now discharg'd of their impeach- 
 ment, of which I gave Lord Arundel of Wardour joy. 
 
 Gates, who had but two dayes before ben pilloried at severall places 
 and whipt at the carts taile from Newgate to Aldgate, was this day 
 plac'd on a sledge, being not able to go by reason of so late scourging, 
 and dragg'd from prison to Tyburn, and whipt againe all the way, 
 which some thought to be very severe and extraordinary ; but if he was 
 guilty of the perjuries, and so of the death of many innocents, as 1 feare 
 he was, his punishment was but what he deserv'd. 1 chanc'd to pass 
 just as execution was doing on him. A strange revolution ! 
 
 Note : there was no speech made by the Lord Keeper [Bridgeman] 
 after his Majesty, as usual. 
 
 It was whisper'd he would not be long in that situation, and many 
 believe the bold Cheif Justice Jefferies, who was made Baron of Wem 
 in Shropshire, and who went thorough stitch in that tribunal, stands 
 fair for that office. I gave him joy the morning before of his new 
 honour, he having always ben very civil to me. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 479 
 
 24 May. We had hitherto not any raine for many moneths, so as 
 the caterpillars had already devour'd all the winter fruite thro' the 
 whole land, and even Idll'd severall greater old trees. Such two winters 
 and summers I had never knowne. 
 
 4 June. Came to visite and take leave of me Sir Gab. Sylvius, now 
 going Envoy extraordinary into Denmark, with his Secretary and Chap- 
 laine, a Frenchman, who related the miserable persecution of the Pro- 
 testants in France ; not above 10 Churches left them, and those also 
 threaten'd to be demolish'd ; they were commanded to christen their 
 children within 24 houres after birth, or else a Popish Priest was to be 
 call'd, and then the infant brought up in Popery. In some places they 
 were 30 leagues from any minister or opportunity of worship. This 
 persecution had displeas'd the most industrious part of the nation, and 
 dispers'd those into Swisse, Burgundy, Holland, Germany, Denmark, 
 England, and the Plantations. There were with Sir Gabriel, his lady, 
 Sir Wm. Godolphin and sisters, and my Lord Godolphin's little son, 
 my charge. I brought them to the water side where Sir Gabriel em- 
 bark'd, and the rest return'd to London. 
 
 14. There was now certaine intelligence of the Duke of Monmouth 
 landing at Lyme in'Dorsetshire, and of his having set up his standard 
 as King of England. I pray God deliver us from the confusion which 
 these beginnings threaten ! 
 
 Such a dearth for want of raine was never in my memory. 
 
 17. The Duke landed with but 150 men, but the whole Kingdom 
 was alarm'd, fearing that the disaffected would joyn them, many of the 
 train'd bands flocking to him. At his landing he publish'd a declara- 
 tion, charging his Majesty with usurpation and several horrid crimes, 
 on pretence of his owne title, and offering to call a free Parliament. 
 This declaration was order'd to be burnt by the hangman, the Duke 
 proclaim'd a traytor, and a reward of .£.5,000 to any man who should 
 kill him. 
 
 At this time the words engraved on the monument in London, inti- 
 mating that the Papists fir'd the Citty, were erased and cut out. 
 The exceeding drowth still continues. 
 
 18. I received a warrant to send out a horse with 12 dayes provi- 
 sion, &c. 
 
 28. We had now plentifuU raine after 2 yeares excessive drowth and 
 severe winters. 
 
 Argyle taken in Scotland and executed, and his party dispers'd. 
 
 2 July. No considerable account of the troops sent against the 
 £)uke of Monmouth, tho' greate forces sent. There was a smart 
 skirmish, but he would not be provok'd to come to an encounter, but 
 still kept in the fastnesses. 
 
 Dangerfield whipp'd, like Gates, for perjurie. 
 
 8 July. Came news of Monmouth's utter defeate, and the next day 
 
48o DEFEAT OF MONMOUTH ; HIS CAPTURE, AND MISERABLE STATE. 
 
 of his being taken by Sir William Portman and Lord Lumley with the 
 militia of their counties. It seemes the horse, commanded by Lord 
 Grey, being newly rais'd and undisciplin'd, were not to be brought in 
 so short a time to endure the fire, which expos'd the foote to the King's, 
 so as when Monmouth had led the foote in greate silence and order, 
 thinking to surprize Lieutenant General Lord Feversham newly en- 
 camp'd and given him a smart charge, interchanging both greate and 
 small shot, the horse, breaking their owne ranks, Monmouth gave it 
 over, and fled with Grey, leaving their party to be cut in pieces to the 
 number of 2000. The whole number reported to be above 8,000, the 
 King's but 2,700. The slaine were most of them Mendip-miners, who 
 did greate execution with their tooles, and sold their lives very dearely, 
 whilst their leaders flying were pursu'd and taken the next morning, 
 not far from one another. Monmouth had gone 16 miles on foote, 
 changing his habite for a poore coate, and was found by Lord Lumley 
 in a dry ditch cover'd with fern-brakes, but without sword, pistol, or 
 any weapon, and so might have pass'd for some countryman, his beard 
 being grown so long and so grey as hardly to be known, had not his 
 George discover'd him, which was found in his pocket. 'Tis said he 
 trembl'd exceedingly all over, not able to speake. Grey was taken not 
 far from him. Most of his party were anabaptists and poore cloth- 
 workers of the country, no gentleman of account being come in to him. 
 The arch-boutefeu Ferguson Matthews, &c. were not yet found. The 
 ;£5.ooo to be given to whoever should bring Monmouth in, was to be 
 distributed among the militia by agreement between Sir William Port- 
 man and Lord Lumley. The battail ended, some words, first in jest, 
 then in passion, pass'd between Sherrington Talbot (a worthy gentle- 
 man, son to Sir John Talbot, and who had behav'd himselfe very hand- 
 somely) and one Capt. Love, both commanders of the militia, as to 
 whose souldiers fought best, both drawing their swords and passing at 
 one another. Sherrington was wounded to death on the spot, to the 
 greate regret of all who knew him. He was Sir John's only son. 
 
 9 July. Just as I was coming into the lodgings at White-hall, a 
 little before dinner, my Lord of Devonshire standing very neere his 
 Majesty's bed-chamber doore in the lobby, came Col. Culpeper, and in 
 a rude manner looking my Lord in the face, asked whether this was a 
 time and place for excluders to appeare ; my Lord at first tooke little 
 notice of what he said, knowing him to be a hot-headed fellow, but he 
 Jeiterating it, my Lord ask'd Culpeper whether he meant him ; he said, 
 yes, he meant his Lordship. My Lord told him he was no excluder (as 
 indeed he was not) ; the other affirming it againe, my Lord told him 
 he lied, on which Culpeper struck him a box on the eare, which my Lord 
 return'd and fell'd him. They were soone parted, Culpeper was seiz'd, 
 and his Majesty, who was all the while in his bed-chamber, order'd 
 him to be carried to the Green Cloth Officer, who sent him to the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 48 1 
 
 Marshalsea, as he dcserv'd. My Lord of Devonshire had nothing 
 said to him. 
 
 I supp'd this night at Lambeth at my old friend's, Mr. Elias Ash> 
 mole's, with my Lady Clarendon, the Bishop of St. Asaph, and Dr, 
 Tenison, where we were treated at a greate feast. 
 
 10 July. The Count of Castel Mellor, that greate favourite and 
 prime minister of Alphonso, late King of Portugal, after several yeeres 
 banishment, being now receiv'd to grace and call'd home by Don Pedro 
 the present King, as having ben found a person of the greatest integrity 
 after all his sufferings, desir'd me to spend part of this day with him, 
 and assist him in a collection of books and other curiosities, which he 
 would carry with him into Portugal. 
 
 Mr. Hussey, a young gentleman who made love to my late deare 
 child, but whom she could not bring herselfe to answer in affection, died 
 now of the same cruel disease, for which 1 was extreamly sorry, because 
 he never enjoy'd himselfe after my daughter's decease, nor was i averse 
 to the match, could she have overcome her disinclination. 
 
 i;. I went to see Dr. Tenison's Library [in St. Martin's.] 
 
 Monmouth was this day brought to London and examin'd before the 
 King, to whom he made greate submission, acknowledg'd his seduction 
 by Ferguson the Scot, whom he nam'd the bloudy villain. He was sent 
 to the Tower, had an interview with his late Dutchesse, whom he 
 receiv'ii coldly, having liv'd dishonestly with the Lady Henrietta Went- 
 worth for two yeares. He obstinately asserted his conversation with 
 that debauch'd woman to be no sin, whereupon, seeing he could not be 
 persuaded to his last breath, the divines who were sent to assist him 
 thought not fit to administer the Holy Communion to him. For the 
 rest of his faults he profess'd greate sorrow, and so died without any 
 apparent feare ; he would not make use of a cap or other circumstance, 
 but lying downe bid the fellow do his office better than to the late Lord 
 Russell, and gave him gold ; but the wretch made five chopps before 
 he had his head off; which so incens'd the people, that had he not 
 been guarded and got away, they would have torn him to pieces. 
 
 The Duke made no speech on the scaffold (which was on Tower 
 Hill) but gave a paper containing not above 5 or 6 lines, for the King, 
 in which he disclaims all title to the Crown, acknowledges that the late 
 King, his father, had indeede told him he was but his base sonn, and 
 so desir'd his Majesty to be kind to his wife and children. This rela- 
 tion I had from Dr. Tenison (Rector of St. Martin's), who, with the 
 Bishops of Ely and Bath and Wells, were sent to him by his Majesty, 
 and were at the execution. 
 
 Thus ended this quondam Duke, darting of his father and the ladies, 
 bcmg extreamly handsome and adroit ; an excellent souldier and dan- 
 cer, a favourite of the people, of an easy nature, debauch'd by lusts, 
 seduc'd by crafty knaves who would have set him up only to make a 
 
 31 
 
482 THE DUCHESS OF MONMOUTH, AND HER LATE HUSBAND. 
 
 property, and took the opportunity of the King being of another re- 
 ligion, to gather a party of discontented men. He fail'd & perish'd. 
 
 He was a lovely person, had a virtuous and excellent lady that 
 brought him greate riches, and a second dukedom in Scotland. He 
 was Master of the Horse, General of the King his father's Army, Gen- 
 tlemen of the Bed-chamber, Knight of the Garter, Chancellor of Cam- 
 bridge, in a word, had accumulations without end. See what ambition 
 and want of principles brought him to ! He was beheaded on Tuesday 
 14th July. His mother, whose name was Barlow, daughter of some 
 very meane creatures, was a beautiful strumpet, whom I had often 
 seene at Paris ; she died miserably without any thing to bury her ; yet 
 this Perkin had ben made to believe that the King had married her ; 
 a monstrous and ridiculous forgerie ; and to satisfy the world of the 
 iniquity of the report, the King his father (if his father he really was, 
 for he most resembl'd one Colonel Sydney,' who was familiar with his 
 mother) publickly and most solemnly renounc'd it, to be so enter'd 
 in the Council Booke some yeares since, with all the Privy Councillor's 
 attestation.'' 
 
 Had it not pleas'd God to dissipate this attempt in the beginning, 
 there would in all appearance have gather'd an irresistible force which 
 would have desperately proceeded to the ruine of the Church and 
 Government, so general was the discontent and expectation of the 
 opportunity. For my owne part I look'd upon this deliverance as most 
 signal. Such an inundation of phanatics and men of impious principles 
 must needs have caus'd universal disorder, cruelty, injustice, rapine, 
 sacrilege, and confusion, an unavoidable civil war and misery without 
 end. Blessed be God the knot was happily broken, and a faire prospect 
 of tranquillity for the future if we reforme, be thankfull, and make a 
 right u.se of this mercy. 
 ■ 18 July. I went to see the muster of the 6 Scotch and English re- 
 giments whom the Prince of Orange had lately sent to his Majesty out 
 of Holland upon this rebellion, but which were now returning, there 
 
 ' Mr, Robert Sidney, commonly called handsome Sidney, related to the Earl of Leicester 
 of that name. 
 
 = Ross, tutor to the Duke of Monmouth, proposed to Bishop Cozens to sign a certificate of 
 the King's marriage to Mrs. Barlow, though her own name was Walters ; this the Bishop 
 refused. She was born of a gentleman's family in Wales, but having little means and less 
 grace, came to London to make her fortune. Algernon Sidney, then a Colonel in Cromwell's 
 army, had agreed to give her 50 broad pieces (as he told the Duke of York) ; but being 
 ordered hastily away with his regiment, he missed his bargain. She went into Holland, where 
 she fell into the hands of his brother Colonel Robert Sidney, who kept her for some time, till 
 the King hearing of her, got her from him. On which the Colonel was heard to say, Let who 
 will have her she is already sped ; and after being with the King she was so soon with child that 
 the world had no cause to doubt whose child it was, and the rather that when he grew to be z 
 man, he very much resembled the Colonel both in stature and countenance, even to a wortoc 
 his face. However the King owned the child. In the King's absence she behaved so loosely, 
 ■Ulat on his return from his escape at Worcester, he would have no further commerce with her, 
 ind she became a cou-jnon prostitute at Paris. Life of King James IL vol. I. 491. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 483 
 
 having ben no occasion for their use. They were all excellently clad 
 and well disciplin'd, and were incamped on Blackheath with their tents: 
 the King and Oueene came to see them exercise, and the manner of 
 their incampment, which was very neate and magnificent. 
 
 By a grosse mistake of the Secretary of his Majesty's forces, it had 
 ben order'd that they should be quarter'd in private houses, contrary to 
 an Act of Parliment, but on my informing his Majesty timely of it, it 
 was prevented. 
 
 The two horsemen which my son and myselfe sent into the county 
 troopes, were now come home, after a moneth's being out to our greate 
 charge. 
 
 20. The Trinity Company met this day, which should have ben on 
 the Monday after Trinity, but was put off by reason of the Royal Char- 
 ter being so large that it could not be ready before. Some immunities 
 were super-added. Mr. Pepys, Secretary to the Admiralty, was a 
 second time chosen Master. There were present the Duke of Grafton, 
 Lord Dartmouth, Master of the Ordnance, the Commissioners of the 
 Navy, and brethren of the Corporation. We went to Church according 
 to costome, and then took barge to the Trinity House, in London, where 
 we had a great dinner, above 80 at one table. 
 
 7 Aug. I went to see Mr. Wats, keeper of the Apothecaries Gard.;n 
 of Simples at Chelsea, where there is a. collection of innumerable 
 rarities of that sort particularly, besides many rare annuals, the tree 
 bearing Jesuits bark, which had don such wonders in quartan agues. 
 What was very ingenious was the subterranean heate, conveyed by a 
 stove under the conservatory, which was all vaulted with brick, so as 
 he has the doores and windowes open in the hardest frosts, secluding 
 only the snow. 
 
 15. Came to visite us Mr. Boscawen with my Lord Godolphin's 
 little son, with whose education hither his father had intrusted me. 
 
 27. My daughter Ehzabeth died of the small pox, soon after having 
 married a young man, nephew of Sir John Tippett, surveyor of the 
 Navy, and one of the Commissioners. The 30th she was buried in the 
 Church at Deptford. Thus in lesse than six moneths were we deprived 
 of two children for our unworthinesse and causes best knowne to God, 
 whom I b«seeche from the bottome of my heart that he will give us 
 grace to make that right use of all these chastisements, that we may 
 become better, and entirely submitt in all things to his infinite wise 
 disposal. Amen. 
 
 3 Sept. Lord Clarendon (Lord Privy Scale) wrote to let me know 
 that the King being pleas'd to send him Lord Lieutenant into Ireland, 
 was also pleas'd to nominate me one of the Commissioners to execute 
 the office of Privy Seale during his Lieutenancy there, it behoving me 
 to wait upon his Majesty to give him thanks for this greate honour. 
 
 5. I accompanied his Lordship to Windsor (dining by the way at 
 
4:84 ST. GEORGE'S HALL. CHIEF JUSTICE JEFFERIES. MRS. GRAHAM. 
 
 Sir Henry Capel's at Kew), where his Majesty receiving me with extra- 
 ordinary kindnesse, I kiss'd his hand. I told him how sensible I was 
 of his Majesty's gracious favour to me, that I would endeavour to serve 
 him with all sincerity, diligence, and loyalty, not more out of my duty 
 than inclination. He said he doubted not of it, and was glad he had the 
 opportunity to shew me the kindnesse he had for me. After this came 
 aboundance of greate men to give me joy. 
 
 6 Sunday. I went to prayer in the Chapell. and heard Dr. Standish. 
 The second sermon was preach'd by' Dr. Creighton, on i Thess. 4, 11, 
 persuading to unity and peace, and to be mindfull of our owne busi- 
 nesse, according to the advice of the Apostle. Ther. I went to heare a 
 Frenchman who preached before the King and Queene in that splendid 
 Chapell next St. George's Hall. Their Majesties going to masse, I with- 
 drew to consider the stupendous painting of the Hall, which, both 
 for the art and invention, deserve the inscription in honour of the 
 painter, Signior Verrio. The history is Edward the 3d receiving the 
 Black Prince, coming towards him in a Roman triumph. The whole 
 roofe is the history of St. George. The throne, the carvings, &c. are 
 incomparable, and I think equal to any, and in many circumstances 
 exceeding any, I have scene abroad. 
 
 I din'd at Lord Sunderland's, with (amongst others) Sir William 
 Soames, design'd Ambassador to Constantinople. 
 
 About 6 o'clock came Sir Dudley and his brother Roger North, and 
 brought the greate seale from my Lord Keeper, who died the day before 
 at his house in Oxfordshire. The King went immediately to Council ; 
 every body guessing who was most likely to succeed this greate officer ; 
 most believing it could be no other than my Lord Chief Justice Jef- 
 feries, who had so vigorously prosecuted the late rebells, and was now 
 gone the Western circuit, to punish the rest that were secur'd in the 
 several counties, and was now neere upon his returne. I tooke my 
 leave of his Majesty, who spake very graciously to me, and supping 
 that night at Sir S. Fox's, I promis'd to dine there the next day. 
 
 15 Sept. I accompanied Mr. Pepys to Portsmouth, whither his 
 Majesty was going the first time sifice'his^ coming to the Crowne, to 
 see in what state the fortifications were. We tooke coach and six 
 horses, late after dinner, yet got to Bagshot (26 m.) that night. 
 Whilst supper was making ready I went and made a visit to Mrs. 
 Graham, some time maid of honour to the Queene Dowager, now wif^ 
 to James Graham, Esq. of the privy purse to the King ; her house 
 being a walke in the forest, within a little of a quarter mile from Bag- 
 shot towne. , Very importunate she was that I would sup, and abide 
 there that night, but being oblig'd by my companion, I return'd to out 
 inn, after she had shew'd me her house, which was very commodious 
 and well furnish'd, as she was an excellent housewife, a prudent and 
 virtuous lady. There is a parke full of red deere about it. Her eldest 
 
THE DIARY OB- JOHN EVELYN. 485 
 
 son \/as now sick there of the small-pox, but in a likely way of recovery, 
 and other of her children run about, and among the infected, which 
 she said she let them do on purpose that they might whilst young 
 pass that fatal disease she fancied they were to undergo one time 
 or other, and that this would be for the best : the severity of this 
 crueU disease so lately in my poore family confirming much of what 
 she affirmed. 
 
 16. The next morning setting out early, we ariv'd soon enough at 
 Winchester to waite on the King, who was lodg'd at the Dean's (Dr. 
 Meggot). I found very few with him besides my Lords Feversham, 
 Arran, Newport, and the Bishop of Bath and Wells. His Majesty 
 was discoursing with the Bishops concerning miracles, and what 
 strange things the Saludadors ' would do in Spaine, as by creeping 
 into heated ovens without hurt, and that they had a black crosse in the 
 roofe of their mouthes, but yet were commonly notorious and profane 
 wretches ; upon which his Majesty further said, that he was so ex- 
 treamly difficult of miracles, for feare of being impos'd upon, that if he 
 should chance to see one himselfe, without some other witness, he 
 should apprehend it a delusion of his senses. Then they spake of the 
 boy who was pretended to have a wanting leg restor'd him, so confi- 
 dently asserted by Fr. de Sta. Clara and others. To all which the 
 Bishop added a greate miracle happening in Westminster to his cer- 
 taine knowledge, of a poor miserably sick and decrepit child (as I 
 remember long kept unbaptiz'd), who immediately on his baptism 
 recover'd ; as also of the salutary effect of K. Charles his Majesty's 
 father's blood, in healing one that was blind. 
 
 There was something said of the second sight happening to some 
 persons, especially Scotch ; upon which his Majesty, and I think Lord 
 
 Arran, told us that Mons a French nobleman, lately here in 
 
 England, seeing the late Duke of Monmouth come into the play-house 
 at London, suddenly cried out to somebody sitting in the same box, 
 Voild, Monsieur comme il entre sans tete. Afterwards his Majesty 
 spoke of some reliques that had effected strange cures, particularly a 
 piece of our Bl. Saviour's Crosse, and heal'd a gentleman's rotten nose 
 by onely touching ; and speaking of the golden crosse and chaine 
 taken out of the coffin of St. Edward the Confessor at Westminster, by 
 
 ' As to that of the Saludador (of which likewise I remember Sir Arthur Hopton, formerly 
 Ambassador at Madrid, has told me many like wonders) Mr. Pepys passing through Spaine, 
 and being extreamly inquisitive of the truth of these pretended miracles of the Saludadors, 
 found a very famous one at last, to whom he offered a considerable reward if he would make 
 atrial of the oven, or any other thing of that kind, before him; the fellow ingeniously told 
 him that finding he was a more than ordinary curious person, he would not deceive him, and 
 so acknowledged that he could do none of the feates really, but that what they pretended was 
 all a cheate, which he would easily discover, though the poore superstitious people were easily 
 imposed upon; yet have these rmposters an allowance of the Bishops to practice their jug- 
 lings. This Mr. Pepys aiSrmed to me, but, said he, I did not conceive it fit to interrupt hii 
 Maj<>sty, who io solemnly told what they pretended to do. J. £. 
 
486 CATHOLICISM OF THE LATE KING. THE NEW PALACE: 
 
 one of the singing men, who, as the scaffolds were taking down after 
 his Majesty's coronation, espying a hole in the tomb, and something 
 glisten, put his hand in and brought it to the Deane, and he to the 
 King ; his Majesty began to put the Bishop in mind how earnestly the 
 late King (his brother) call'd upon him, during his agonie, to take out 
 what he had in his pocket. I had thought, said the King, it had ben 
 for some keys, which might lead to some cabinet that his Majesty would 
 have me secure ; but, says he, you well remember that I found nothing 
 in any of his pockets but a crosse of gold, and a few insignificant 
 papers ; and thereupon he shew'd us vhe crosse, and was pleas'd to put 
 it into my hand. It was of gold, about three inches long, having on 
 one side a crucifix enamell'd and emboss'd, the rest was grav'd and gar- 
 nish'd with goldsmiths' work, and two pretty broad table amethists (as 
 I conceiv'd), and at the bottom a pendant pearle ; within was inchas'd 
 a little fragment, as was thought, of the true Crosse, and a Latine in- 
 scription in gold and Roman letters.' More company coming in, this 
 discourse ended. I may not forget a resolution which his Majesty 
 made, and had a little before ente?d upon it at the Council Board at 
 Windsor or White-hall, that the Negroes in the Plantations should all 
 be baptiz'd, exceedingly declaiming against that impiety of their masters 
 prohibiting it, out of a mistaken opinion that they would be ipso facto 
 free ; but his Majesty persists in his resolution to have them christen'd, 
 V hich piety the Bishop blessed him for. 
 
 I went out to see the new Palace the late King had began, and 
 brought almost to the covering. It is plac'd on the side of the hill 
 where formerly stood the old Castle. It is a stately fabric, of three 
 sides and a corridor, all built of brick, and cornish'd, windows and 
 columns at the break and entrance of free-stone. It was intended for 
 a hunting-house when his Majesty should come to these parts, and has 
 an incomparable prospect. I believe there had already been ;^20,ooo 
 and more expended, but now his Majesty did not seeme to encourage 
 the finishing it, at least for a while. 
 
 Hence I went to see the cathedral, a reverend pile, and in good re- 
 paire. There are still the coffins of the six Saxon Kings, whose bones 
 had ben scatter'd by the sacrilegious Rebells of 1641, in expectation, I 
 suppose, of finding some valuable reliques, and afterwards gather'd 
 up againe and put into new chests, which stand above the stalls of 
 the Choir. 
 
 17 Sept. Early next morning we went to Portsmouth, something 
 before his Majesty ariv'd. We found all the way full of people, the 
 women in their best dress, in expectation of seeing the King pass by, 
 which he did riding on horseback a good part of the way. We found 
 the Maior and Aldermen with their mace, and in their formalities) 
 
 1 There is a pamphlet giving an account of this finding and presenting to the King, uadef 
 the name of George Taylour ; but his name was Henry Keepe. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 487 
 
 Standing at the entrance of the fort, a mile on this side of the towne, 
 where the Maior made a speech to the King, and then the guns of the 
 fort were fired, as were those of the garrison so soone as the King was 
 come into Portsmouth. All the souldiers (neere 3000) were drawn up, 
 and lining the streetes and platforme to God's-house (the name of the 
 Governor's house), where, after he had view'd the new fortifications and 
 ship-yard, his Majesty was entertain'd at a magnificent dinner by Sir 
 . . Slingsby the Lieut. Governor, all the gentlemen in his traine setting 
 down at table with him, which I also had don had I not ben before 
 engag'd to Sir Robert Holmes, Governor of the Isle of Wight, to dine 
 with him at a private house, where likewise we had a very sumptuous 
 and plentiful repast of excellent venison, fowle, fish, and fruit. 
 
 After dinner I went to wait on his Majesty againe, who was pulling 
 on his bootes in the Towne-hall, adjoyning the house where he din'd, 
 and then having saluted some ladys, who came to kiss his hand, he 
 tooke horse for Winchester, whither he returned that night. This hall 
 is artificially hung round with armes of all sorts, like the Hall and 
 Keep at Windsor. 
 
 I went hence to see the ship-yard, and dock, the fortifications, and 
 other things. 
 
 Portsmouth when finish'd will be very strong, and a noble key. 
 There were now 32 men of war in the harbour. I was invited by Sir 
 R. Beach the Commissioner, where, after a greate supper, Mr. Secre- 
 tary and myselfe lay that night, and the next morning set out for Guild- 
 ford, where we ariv'd in good hour, and so the day after to London. 
 
 1 had twice before ben at Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight, &c. many 
 yeares since. I found this part of Hampshire bravely wooded, espe- 
 cialy about the house and estate of Col. Norton, who, tho' now in being, 
 having formerly made his peace by means of Col. Legg, was formerly 
 a very fierce commander in the first Rebellion. His house is large, 
 and standing low, on the road from Winchester to Portsmouth. 
 
 By what I observ'd in this journey, is that infinite industry, sedulity, 
 gravity, and greate understanding and experience of afiaires, in his 
 Majesty, that I cannot but predict much happiness to the Nation, as to 
 its political government ; and if he so persist, there could be nothing 
 more desir'd to accomplish our prosperity but that he was of the 
 National Religion. 
 
 30. The Commission of Lord Clarendon for Lieutenant of Ire- 
 land was seal'd this day. 
 
 2 Oct. Having a letter sent me by Mr. Pepys with this expression 
 at the foote of it, ' I have something to shew you that I may not have 
 another time,' and that I would not faile to dine with him, I accordingly 
 went. After dinner he had me and Mr. Houblon (a rich and consider- 
 able merchant, whose father had fled out of Flanders on the persecu- 
 tion of the Duke of Alva) into a private roome, and told us that being 
 
488 THE KING ON THE RELIGIOUS BELIEF OF HIS LATE BROTHER. 
 
 lately alone with his Majesty, and upon some occasion of speaking con- 
 cerning my late Lord Arlington dying a Roman Catholic, who had all 
 along seem'd to profess himselfe a Protestant, taken all the tests, &c. 
 till the day (I think) of his death, his Majesty sayd that as to his in- 
 clinations he had known him long wavering, but from feare of looseing 
 his places he did not think it convenient to declare himself. There are, 
 says the King, those who believe the Church of Rome gives dispensa- 
 tions for going to church, and many like things, but that is not so ; for 
 if that might have ben had, he himselfe had most reason to make use 
 of it. Indeede, he said, as to some matrimonial cases, there are now and 
 then dispensations, but hardly in any cases else. This familiar dis- 
 course encourag'd Mr. Pepys to beg of his Majesty, if he might ask 
 it without offence, and for that his Majesty could not but observe how 
 it was whisper'd among many, whether his late Majesty had ben re- 
 concil'd to the Church of Rome ; he againe humbly besought his 
 Majesty to pardon his presumption if he had touch'd upon a thing 
 which did not befit him to looke into : the King ingenuously to'd 
 him that he both was and died a Roman Catholic, and that he had not 
 long since declar'd it was upon some politic and state reasons, best 
 known to himselfe (meaning the King his brother) but that he was of 
 that persuasion : he bid him follow him into his closet, where opening 
 a cabinet, he shew'd him two papers, containing about a quarter of 
 a sheete, on both sides written, in the late King's owne hand, severall 
 arguments opposite to the doctrine of the Church of England, charging 
 her with heresy, novelty and the fanaticism of other Protestants, the 
 chief whereof was, as I remember, our refusing to acknowledge the 
 Primacy and Infallibility of the Church of Rome ; how impossible it 
 was that so many ages should never dispute it, till of late ; how un- 
 likely our Saviour would leave his Church without a visible head and 
 guide to resort to, during his absence ; with the like usual topics ; so 
 well penn'd as to the discourse as did by no means seeme to me to have 
 ben put together by the late King, yet written all with his owne hand, 
 blotted and interlin'd, so as, if indeede it was not given him by some 
 priest, they might be such arguments and reasons as had ben incul- 
 cated from time to time, and here recollected ; and in the conclusion 
 shewing his looking on the Protestant Religion (and by name the 
 Church of England) to be without foundation, and consequently false 
 and unsafe. When his Majesty had shewn him these originals, he was 
 pleas'd to lend him the copies of those two papers, attested at the bot- 
 tom in 4 or 5 lines, under his owne hand. 
 
 These were the papers I saw and read. This nice and curious pas- 
 sage I thought fit to set downe. Tho' all the arguments and objections 
 were altogether weake, and have a thousand times ben answer'd by our 
 Divines ; they are such as their Priests insinuate among their proselites, 
 as if nothing were Catholiq but the Church of Rome, no salvation out 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 489 
 
 of that, no reformation sufferable, bottoming all their errors on St, 
 Peter's successors unerrable dictatorship, but proving nothing with any 
 reason, or taking notice of any objection which could be made against 
 it. Here all was taken for granted, and upon it a resolution and pre- 
 ference implied. I was heartily sorry to see all this, tho' it was no other 
 than was to be suspected, by his late Majesty's too greate indifference, 
 neglect, and course of life, that he had ben perverted, and for secular 
 respects onely profess'd to be of another beliefe, and thereby giving 
 greate advantage to our adversaries, both the Court and generaly the 
 youth and greate persons of the Nation becoming dissolute and highly 
 profane. God was incens'd to make his reign very troublesome and 
 unprosperous, by warrs, plagues, fires, losse of reputation by an universal 
 neglect of the publique for the love of a voluptuous and sensual life, 
 which a vicious Court had brought into credit. I think of it with sor- 
 row and pity when I consider of how good and debonaire a nature that 
 unhappy Prince was, what opportunities he had to have made himselfe 
 the most renown'd King that ever sway'd the British scepter, had he 
 ben firm to that Church for which his martyr'd and blessed father suf- 
 fered ; and had he ben gratefull to Almighty God, who so miraculously 
 restor'd him, with so excellent a Religion ; had he endeavour'd to 
 owne and propagate it as he should have don, not onely for the good of 
 his Kingdom, but of all the Reformed Churches in Christendom, now 
 weaken'd and neere ruin'd thro' our remissnesse and suffering them to 
 be suplanted, persecuted and destroy'd, as in France, which we tooke no 
 notice of. The consequence of this time will shew, and I wish it may 
 proceed no further. The emissaries and instruments of the Church ot 
 Rome will never rest till they have crush'd the Church of England, as 
 knowing that alone to be able to cope with them, and that they can 
 never answer her fairly, but lie aboundantly open to the irresistible 
 force of her arguments, antiquity and purity of her doctrine, so that 
 albeit it may move God, for the punishment of a Nation so unworthy, 
 to eclipse againe the profession of her here, and darknesse and super- 
 stition prevaile, I am most confident the doctrine of the Church of 
 England will never be extinguish'd, but remaine visible, if not eminent, 
 to the consummation of the world. I have innumerable reasons that 
 confirm me in this opinion, which I forbear to mention here. 
 
 In the mean time as to the discourse of his Majesty with Mr. Pepys, 
 and ttiose papers, as I do exceedingly prefer his Majesty's free and in- 
 genuous profession of what his own Religion is, beyond concealment 
 upon any politic accounts, so I thinke him of a most sincere and 
 honest nature, one on whose word one may relie, and that he makes a 
 conscience of what he promises, to performe it. In this confidence I 
 hope that the Church of England may yet subsist, and when it shali 
 please God to open his eyes and turne his heart (for that is peculiarly 
 in the Lord's hands) to flourish also. In all events whatever do become 
 
49© MY PORTRAIT PAINTED BY KNELLER. SWALLOWFIELD HOUSE. 
 
 of the Church of England, it is certainely, of all the Christian profes- 
 sions on the earth, the most primitive, apostolical and excellent. 
 8 Oct. I had my picture drawn this week by the famous Kneller. 
 
 14. I went to London about finishing my lodgings at White-hall. 
 
 15. Being the King's birth day, there was a solemne ball at Court, 
 and before it musiq of instruments and voices. At the musiq I hap- 
 pen'd by accident to stand the very next to the Queene and the King, 
 who talk'd with me about the musick. 
 
 18. The King was now building all that range from East to West 
 by the Court and Garden to the streete, and making a new Chapel for 
 the Queene, whose lodgings were to be in this new building, as also a 
 new Council chamber and offices next the South end of the Banquetting 
 house. I returned home next morning to London. 
 
 22. I accompanied my Lady Clarendon to her house at Swallow- 
 field in Berks, dining by the way at Mr. Graham's lodge at Bagshot ; 
 the house, new repaired and capacious enough for a good family, standS' 
 in a Park. 
 
 Hence we went to Swallowfield; this house is after the antient build- 
 ing of honourable gentlemen's houses, when they kept up antient hos- 
 pitaHty, but the gardens and waters as elegant as 'tis possible to make 
 a flat, by art and Industrie, and no meane expence, my lady being so< 
 extraordinarily skill'd in the flowery part, and my lord in diligence of 
 planting ; so that I have hardly scene a seate which shews more tokens 
 of it than what is to be found here, not only in the delicious and rarest 
 fruits of a garden, but in those innumerable timber trees in the ground 
 about the seate, to the greatest ornament and benefit of the place. 
 There is one orchard of 1000 golden, and other cider pippins ; walks 
 and groves of elms, limes, oaks, and other trees. The garden is soi 
 beset with all manner of sweete shrubbs, that it perfumes the aire. 
 The distribution also of the quarters, walks, and parterres, is excellent. 
 The nurseries, kitchin garden full of the most desireable plants ; two- 
 very noble Orangeries well furnished ; but above all, the canall and 
 fishponds, the one fed with a white, the other with a black running 
 water, fed by a quick and swift river, so well and plentifully stor'd with 
 fish, that for pike, carp, breame and tench, I never saw any thing 
 approching it. We had at every meale carp and pike of size fit for the 
 table of a Prince, and what added to the delight was to see the hundreds 
 taken by the drag, out of which, the cooke standing by, we pointed out 
 what we had most mind to, and had carp that would have ben worth 
 at London twenty shillings a piece. The waters are flagg'd about with 
 Calamus aromaticus, with which my lady has hung a closet, that 
 retains the smell very perfectly. There is also a certaine sweete willow 
 and other exotics : also a very fine bowling-greene, meadow, pasture, 
 and wood ; in a word, all that can render a country seate delightful 
 There is besides a well furnish'd library in the house. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 49I 
 
 26. We return'd to London, having ben treated with ali sorts of 
 cheere and noble freedom by that most religious and vertuous lady. 
 She was now preparing to go for Ireland with her husband, made Lord 
 Deputy, and went to this country-house and antient seate of her father 
 and family,' to set things in order during her absence ; but never were 
 good people and neighbours more concern'd than all the country (the 
 poor especialy) for the departure of this charitable woman ; every one 
 was in teares, and she as unwilling to part from them. There was 
 amongst them a maiden of primitive life, the daughter of a poore 
 labouring man, who had sustain'd her parents (sometime since dead) 
 Dy her labour, and has for many years refus'd marriage, or to receive 
 any assistance from the parish, besides the little hermitage my lady 
 gives her rent-free ; she lives on foure pence a day, which she gets by 
 spinning ; says she abounds and can give almes to others, living in 
 greate humility and content, without any apparent affectation or singu- 
 larity ; she is continualy working, praying or reading, gives a good 
 account of her knowledge in religion, visites the sick ; is not in the least 
 given to talke; very modest, of a simple not unseemly behaviour ; of a 
 comely countenance, clad very plaine, but cleane and tight. In sum, 
 she appeares a saint of an extraordinary sort, in so religious a life as is 
 seldom met with in villages now-a-daies. 
 
 27. I was invited to dine at Sir Ste. Fox's with my Lord Lieutenant, 
 where was such a dinner for variety of all things as I had seldome seene, 
 and it was so for the trial of a master cooke whom Sir Stephen had re- 
 commended to go with his Lordship into Ireland ; there were all the 
 dainties not onely of the season, but of what art could add, venison, 
 plaine solid meate, fowle, bak'd and boil'd meates, banquet [desert], 
 &c. in exceeding plenty and exquisitely dress'd. There also din'd my 
 Lord Ossory and Lady (the Duke of Beaufort's daughter), my Lady 
 Treasurer, Lord Corijbery, &c. 
 
 28. At the Royal Society an urn full of bones was presented, dug up 
 in an highway, whilst repairing it, in a field in Camberwell in Surrey ; 
 it was found intire with its cover, amongst many others, believ'd to be 
 truly Roman and antient. 
 
 Sir Richard Bulkeley described to us a model of a charriot he had 
 invented, which it was not possible to overthrow in whatever uneven 
 way it was drawn, giving us a wonderfuU relation of what it had per- 
 form'd in that kind, for ease, expedition, and safety ; there were some 
 inconveniences yet to be remedied — it would not contain more than 
 one person ; was ready to take fire every 10 miles, and being plac'd, 
 and playing on no fewer than 10 rollers, it made a most prodigious 
 noise, almost intolerable. A remedy was to be sought for these 
 mconveniences. 
 
 1 She was daughter and heiress of Wm. Backhouse, Esq. ; and widow of Sir Wm Back- 
 house, Bart. Collins's Peerage. 
 
492 tORD CHAN. JEFFERIES. PERSECUTION OF FRENCH PROTESTANTS. 
 
 31. I din'd at our greate Lord Chancellor Jefleries, who us'd me 
 with much respect. This was the late Chief Justice who had newly 
 ben the Western Circuit to try the Monmouth conspirators, and had 
 formerly don such severe justice amongst the obnoxious in West- 
 minster Hall, for which his Majesty dignified him by creating him first 
 a Baron, and now Lord Chancellor. He had some years past ben con- 
 versant at Deptford ; is of an assur'd and undaunted spirit, and has 
 serv'd the Court interest on all the hardiest occasions ; is of nature cruel 
 and a slave of the Court. 
 
 3 Nov. The French persecution of the Protestants raging with the 
 utmost barbarity, exceeded even what the very heathens us'd: innu- 
 merable persons of the greatest birth and riches leaving all their 
 earthly substance, and hardly escaping with their lives, dispers'd thro' 
 all the countries of Europe. The French tyrant abrogated the Edict 
 of Nantes which had ben made in favour of them, and without any 
 cause ; on a suddaine demolishing all their Churches, banishing, im- 
 prisoning, and sending to the gallies all the ministers ; plundering the 
 common people, and exposing them to all sorts of barbarous usage by 
 souldiers sent to ruine and prey on them ; taking away their children ; 
 forcing people to the Masse, and then executing them as relapsers ; they 
 burnt their libraries, pillag'd their goods, eate up their fields and sub- 
 stance, banish'd or sent the people to the gallies, and seiz'd on their 
 estates. There had now ben number'dto passe thro' Geneva onely (and 
 that by stealth, for all the usual passages were strictly guarded by sea 
 and land) 40,000 towards Swisserland. In Holland, Denmark, and all 
 about Germany, were dispers'd some hundred thousands ; besides 
 those in England, where though multitudes of all degrees sought for 
 shelter and wellcome as distressed Christians and Confessors, they 
 found least encouragement, by a fatality of the times we were fallen into, 
 and the uncharitable indifference of such as should have embrac'd them ; 
 and I pray it be not laid to our charge. The famous Claude fled to 
 Holland, Allix' and severall more came to London, and persons of greate 
 estates came over, who had forsaken all. France was almost dispeopled, 
 the bankers so broaken that the Tyrant's revenue was exceedingly 
 diminish'd, manufactures ceas'd, and every body there, save the Jesu- 
 ites, abhorr'd what was don, nor did the Papists themselves approve it. 
 What the further intention is time will shew, but doubtlesse portending 
 some revolution. I was shew'd the harangue which the Bishop of 
 Valentia on Rhone made in the name of the Cleargie, celebrating the 
 French King, as if he was a God, for persecuting the poore Protestants, 
 
 ' Mr. Peter Allix, a minister of the Rcform'd Church at Charenton, came over with his 
 whole family, and met with great encouragement here. He was the author of several learned 
 discourses in defence of the Christian Religion in general, and of Protestantism in particular. 
 His eldest son John Peter Allix became D. D., and after passing through different preferments, 
 was in 1730 made Dean of Ely, and died in 17^8, and was buried in his church of Castle 
 C^mps in Cambridgeshire. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 493 
 
 with this expression in it, ' That as his victory over heresy was greater 
 ' than all the conquests of Alexander and Cassar, it was but what v/^.s 
 ' ivish'd in England ; and that God seem'd to raise the French King to 
 'this power and magnanimous action, that he might be in capacity to 
 ' assist in doing the same here.' This paragraph is very bold and re- 
 markable : severall reflecting on Archbishop Usher's prophecy as now 
 begun in France, and approching the orthodox in all other reform'd 
 churches. One thing was much taken notice of, that the Gazettes 
 which were still constantly printed twice a weeke, informing us what 
 was don all over Europe, never spake of this wonderfull proceeding in 
 France, nor was any relation of it publish'd by any, save what private 
 letters and the persecuted fugitives brought : whence this silence I list 
 not to conjecture, but it appear'd very extraordinary in a Protestant 
 countrie that we should know nothing of what Protestants suffer'd, 
 whilst greate collections were made for them in forreine places, more 
 hospitable and Christian to appearance. 
 
 5 Nov. It being an extraordinary wett morning, and myself indis- 
 posed by a very greate rheume, I did not go to church, to my very 
 greate sorrow, it being the first Gunpowder Conspiracy anniversary that 
 had ben kept now these 80 yeares under a prince of the Roman religion. 
 Bonfires were forbidden on this day ; what does this portend ! 
 
 9. Began the Parliament : the King in his speech required con- 
 tinuance of a standing force instead of a militia, and indemnity and 
 dispensation to Popish officers from the Test ; demands very unex- 
 pected and unpleasing to the Commons. He also requir'd a supply 
 of revenue, which they granted, but return'd no thanks to the King 
 for his speech, till farther consideration. 
 
 12, The Commons postpon'd finishing the bill for the supply, to 
 consider the Test, and the Popish officers ; this was carried iDut by 
 one voice. 
 
 14. I dined at Lambeth, my Lord Archbishop carrying me with 
 him in his barge : there were my Lord Deputy of Ireland, the Bp. of 
 Ely, and St. Asaph, Dr. Sherlock, and other divines ; Sir William Hay- 
 ward, Sir Paule Rycaut, &c. 
 
 20. The Parliament was adjourn'd to February, severall both of 
 Lords and Commons excepting against some passage of his Majesty's 
 speech relating to the Test, and continuance of Popish officers in com- 
 mand. This was a greate surprize in a Parliament which people be- 
 leiVd would have complied in all things. 
 
 Popish pamphlets and pictures sold publickly ; no books nor 
 answers to them appearing till long after. 
 
 21. I resign'd my trust for composing a difference between Mr, 
 Thynn and his wife. 
 
 22. Hitherto was a very wett warme season. 
 
 4 Dec. Lord Sunderland was declar'd President of the Counsel, and 
 
494 DINED AT MR. PEPYS'. THE VENETIAN AMBASSADORS. 
 
 yet to hold his Secretarie's place. The forces dispos'd into several] 
 quarters thro' the kingdome are very insolent, on which there are 
 greate complaints. 
 
 Lord Brandon tried for the late conspiracy, was condemn'd and 
 pardon'd ; so was Lord Grey, his accuser and witnesse. 
 
 Persecution in France raging, the French insolently visite our ves- 
 sells, and take away the fugitive Protestants ; some escape in barrells. 
 
 10. To Greenwich, being put into the new Commission of Sewers. 
 
 13. Dr. Patrick, Dean of Peterborough, preach'd at Whitehall, 
 before the Princesse of Denmark ; who since his Majesty came to the 
 Crown, allways sate in the King's closet, and had the same bowings 
 and ceremonies applied to the place where she was, as his Majesty 
 had when there in person. 
 
 Dining at Mr. Pepys's, Dr. Slayer shewed us an experiment of a 
 wonderful nature, pouring first a very cold liquor into a glass, and 
 super-fusing on it another, to appearance cold and cleare liquor also ; 
 it first produced a white cloud, then boiling, divers corruscations and 
 actual flames of fire mingled with the liquor, which being a little 
 shaken together, fixed divers sunns and Starrs of real fire, perfectly 
 globular, on the sides of the glasse, and v/hich there stuck like so many 
 constellations, burning most vehemently, and resembling starrs and 
 heavenly bodies, and that for a long space. It seemed to exhibite a 
 theorie of the eduction of light out of the chaos, and the fixing or 
 gathering of the universal light into luminous bodys. This matter or 
 phosphorus was made out of human blood and urine, elucidating the 
 vital flame or heate in animal bodys. A very noble experiment. 
 
 16. I accompanied my Lord Lieutenant as far as St. Alban's, there 
 going out of towne with him neere 200 coaches of all the greate 
 officers and nobilitie. The next morning on taking leave, I return'd 
 to London. 
 
 18. I din'd at the greate entertainment his Majesty gave the 
 Venetian Ambassadors, Signiors Zenno and Justiniani, accompanied 
 with 10 more noble Venetians of their most illustrious families, Cor- 
 naro, Maccenigo, &c. who came to congratulate their Majesties coming 
 to the Crowne. The dinner was most magnificent and plentifull, at 
 four tables, with music, kettle drums, and trumpets, which sounded 
 upon a whistle at every health. The banquet [desert] was 12 vast 
 chargers pil'd up so high that those who sat one against another could 
 hardly see each other. Of these sweetmeates, which doubtless were 
 some days piling up in that exquisite manner, the Ambassadors touch'd 
 not, but leaving them to the spectators who came out of curiosity to 
 see the dinner, were exceedingly pleas'd to see in what a moment of 
 time all that curious work was demolish'd, the comfitures voided, and 
 the tables clear'd. Thus his Majesty entertain'd them three days, 
 yhich (for the table only) cost him ^600, as the Cleark of the Greene 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 49$ 
 
 cloth (Sir Williara. Boreman) assur'd me. Dinner ended, 1 saw their 
 procession or cavalcade to White-hall, innumerable coaches attending. 
 The two Ambassadors had 4 coaches of their owne and 50 footemen 
 (as I remember), besides other equipage as splendid as the occasion 
 would permitt, the Court being still in mourning. Thence I went to 
 the audience which they had in the Queene's presence chamber, the 
 Banquetting house being full of goods and furniture till the galleries 
 on the garden side. Council chamber, and new Chapell now in 
 building, were flnish'd. They went to their audience in those plain 
 black gownes and caps which they constantly weare in the Citty of 
 Venice. I was invited to have accompanied the 2 Ambassadors in 
 their coach to supper that night, returning now to their own lodgings, 
 as no longer at the King's expence ; but being weary I excus'd myself. 
 
 19 Dec. My Lord Treasurer made me dine with him, where I be- 
 came acquainted with Monsieur Barillon, the French Ambassador, a 
 learned and crafty advocate. 
 
 20. Dr. Turner, brother to the Bp. of Ely, and sometime Tutor to 
 my son, preach'd at White-hall on 8 Mark 38, concerning the submis- 
 sion of Christians to their persecutors, in which were some passages 
 indiscreete enough, considering the time, and the rage of the inhumane 
 French tyrant against the poore Protestants. 
 
 22. Our patent for executing the office of Privy Seal during the 
 absence of the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, being this day ssal'd by the 
 Lord Chancellor, we went afterwards to St. James's, where the Court 
 then was on occasion of building at White-hall ; his Majesty deliver'd 
 the seale to my Lord Tiviot and myselfe, the other Commissioners not 
 being come, and then gave us his hand to kisse. There were the two 
 Venetian Ambassadors, and a world of company ; amongst the rest 
 the first Popish Nuncio ' that had ben in England since the Reforma- 
 tion, so wonderfully were things chang'd, to the universal jealousy. 
 
 24. We were all three Commissioners swome on our knees by the 
 Cleark of the Crowne, before my Lord Chancellor, three severall oathes ; 
 allegiance, supremacy, and the oath belonging to the Lord Privy Seal, 
 which last we tooke standing. After this the Lord Chancellor invited 
 us all to dinner, but it being Christmas-eve we desir'd to be excus'd, 
 intending at three in the afternoone to seale divers things which lay 
 ready at the office ; so attended by three of the Clearks of the Signet, 
 we met and seal'd. Amongst other things was a pardon to West, who 
 being privy to the late conspiracy had reveal'd the accomplices to save 
 his owne neck. There were also another pardon and two indeniza- 
 tions ; and so agreeing to a fortnight's vacation, I return'd home. 
 
 31. Recollecting the passages of the yeare past, and made up ac- 
 compts, humbly besought Almighty God to pardon those my sinns 
 which had provoked him to discompose my sorrowfuU family ; that he 
 
 1 Ferdinand C^unt D'Ada, afterwards a CardinaL There is a good mezzotinto print of him. 
 
496 JOHN DRYDEN AND HIS SONS' PROVERBS. MRS. NELLY. 
 
 would accept of our humiliation, and in his good time restore comfort 
 to it. 1 also blest God for all his undeserved mercies and preserva- 
 tions, begging the continuance of his grace and preservation.— The 
 winter had hitherto been extraordinary wett and mild. 
 
 1686. I Jan. Imploring the continuance of God's providential care 
 for the yeare now entered, I went to the publiq devotions. The Deane 
 of the Chapell and Cleark of the Closet put out, viz. Bp. of London 
 and . . . , and Rochester (Sprat) and Durham (Crewe) put into 
 their places ; the former had oppos'd the toleration intended, and 
 shewn a worthy zeale for the Reform'd Religion as establish'd. 
 
 6. I din'd with the Abp. of York, where was Peter Walsh, that 
 Romish Priest so well known for his moderation, professing the Church 
 of England to be a true member of the Catholic Church ; he is us'd to 
 go to our publiq prayers without scruple, and did not acknowledge the 
 Pope's infallibility, onely primacy of order. 
 
 19. Passed the Privie Seale, amongst others, the creation of Mrs. 
 
 Sedley ' (concubine to ) Countesse of Dorchester, which the 
 
 Queene took very grievously, so as for two dinners, standing heere her 
 I observed she hardly eate one morsel, nor spake one word to the 
 King, or to any about her, tho' at other times she us'd to be extreamly 
 pleasant, full of discourse and good humour. The Roman Cathohcs 
 were also very angry, because they had so long valu'd the sanctity of 
 their religion and proselytes. 
 
 Dryden the famous playwriter, and his two sonns, and Mrs. Nelly 
 (Misse to the late — ~) were said to go to masse; such proselytes 
 were no greate losse to the church. 
 
 This night was burr.>t to the ground my Lord Montague's palace in 
 Bloomsbury, than which for painting and furniture there was nothing 
 more glorious in England. This happen'd by the negligence of a ser- 
 vant airing, as they call it, some of the goods by the fire in a moist 
 season ; indeede so wet and mild a winter had scarce ben seene in 
 man's memory. 
 
 At this Seale there also pass'd the creation of Sir. H. Walgrave to 
 be a Peere. He had married one of the King's natural daughters by 
 Mrs. Churchill. These two Seales my brother Commissioners pass'd 
 in the morning before I came to towne, at which I was not displeas'd. 
 We likewise pass'd Privy Seales for ^276,000 upon several! accounts, 
 pensions, guards, wardrobes, privie purse, &c. besides divers pardons, 
 and one more which I must not forget (and which by Providence I was 
 
 1 Catharine, daughter of Sir Charles Sedley, Bart, one of the famous knot of wits and cour» 
 6ers of King Charles's time — he was also a poet, and wrote some dramatic pieces. She had 
 1 daughter by King James IL and was afterwards married to David Earl of Portmore, by 
 whom she had two sons, and died in 1717. Lord Dorset's well known verses, 'Tell me, 
 Dorinda, why so gay,' &c. are addressed to this lady. Her father's sarcasm when he voted 
 for filling up the vacant throne with the Prince and Princess of Orange is well known : ' King 
 Janies made w^' daughter a Countess, 3,"-^ I have been helpinir to make his daughter a Queen,* 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 497 
 
 not present at) one Mr. Lytcott to be Secretary to the Ambassador to 
 Rome. We being three Commissioners, any two were a quorum. 
 
 21. I din'd at my Lady Arlington's, groome of the stole to the 
 Queene Dowager, at Somerset House, where din'd the Countesses of 
 Devonshire, Dover, &c. in all 11 ladys of quahty, no man but myselfe 
 being there. 
 
 24. Unheard of cruelties to the persecuted Protestants of France, 
 such as hardly any age has seene the like, even among the Pagans. 
 
 6 Feb. Being the day on which his Majestji began his reign, by 
 order of Council it was to be solemniz'd with a particular Office and 
 Sermon, which the Bp. of Ely (Dr. Fr. Turner), preach'd at White- 
 hall on II Numb. 12 ; a Court oration upon the Regal office. It was 
 much wonder'd at that this day, which was that of his late Majesty's 
 death, should be kept as a festival, and not [instead of] the day of the 
 present King's coronation. It is said to have been formerly the cos- 
 tom, tho' not till now since the reigne of King James I. 
 
 The Dutchesse of Monmouth being in the same seatt with me at 
 church, appear'd with a very sad and afflicted countenance. 
 
 8. I tooke the Test in Westminster Hall, before the Lord Cheif 
 Justice. I now came to lodge at Whitehall in the Lord Privy Seal's 
 lodgings. 
 
 1 2. My greate cause was heard by my Lord Chancellor, who gran- 
 ted me a re-hearing. I had 6 eminent lawyers, my antagonists 3, 
 whereof one was the smooth-tong Solicitor,' whom my Lord Chan- 
 cellor reprov'd in greate passion for a very small occasion. Blessed be 
 God for his greate goodnesse to me this day. ..-.— 
 
 19. Many bloody and notorious duels were fought about this time. 
 The Duke of Grafton kill'd Mr. Stanley, brother to the Earle of [Derby], 
 indeede upon an almost insufferable provocation. It is to be hop'd 
 his Majesty will at last severely remedy this unchristian custome. 
 
 Lord Sunderland was now Secretary of State, President of the Coun^ 
 oil, and Premier Minister. 
 
 I March. Came Sir Gilbert Gerrard to treate with me about his 
 sonn's marrying my daughter Susanna. The father being obnoxious, 
 and in some suspicion and displeasure of the King, I would receive no 
 proposal till his Majesty had given me leave, which he was pleas'd to 
 do ; but after several! meetings we brake off on his not being willing 
 to secure any thing competent for my daughter's children ; besides that 
 I found most of his estate was in the coal pits as far off as Newcastle, 
 and on leases from the Bishop of Durham, who had power to make 
 concurrent leases, with other difficulties. 
 
 7. Dr. Frampton, Bp. of Gloucester, preach'd on 44 Psalm, 17, 18, 
 19, shewing the severaU afflictions of the Church of Christ from the 
 primitives to this day, applying exceedingly to the present conjuncture. 
 
 ^ Mr. Finch, called Siiver-TtttvW' J^om his manner of speaking. 
 
 32 
 
498 AM LORD PRIVY SEAL. PAPIST GOVERNOR OF DOVER CASTLE. 
 
 when many were wavering in their minds, and greate temptations 
 appearing thro' the favour now found by the Papists, so as the people 
 were full of jealousies and discouragement. The Bp. magnified the 
 Church of England, exhorting to constancy and perseverance. 
 
 10. A Council of the Royal Society about disposing of Dr. Ray's 
 book of Fishes, which was printed at the expence of the Society. 
 
 12. A docquet was to be seal'd importing a lease of 21 yeares to 
 one Hall, who styl'd himselfe his Majesty's printer (he lately turn'd 
 Papist) for the printing Missalls, Offices, Lives of Saints, Portals 
 Primers, &c. books expressly forbidden to be printed or sold, by divers 
 Acts of Parliament ; I refus'd to put the seale to it, making my excep- 
 tions, so it was laied by. 
 
 14. The Bp. of Bath and Wells (Dr. Ken) preach'd on 6 John 17, 
 a most excellent and pathetic discourse: after he had recommended 
 the duty of fasting and other penetential duties, he exhorted to con- 
 stancy in the Protestant religion, detestation of the unheard-of cruelties 
 of the French, and stirring up to a liberal contribution. This Sermon 
 was the more acceptable, as it was unexpected from a Bishop who 
 had undergon the censure of being inclin'd to Popery, the contrary 
 whereof no man could shew more. This indeede did all our Bishops, 
 to the disabusing and reproch of all their delators ; for none were 
 more zealous against Popery than they were. 
 
 16. I was at a review of the Army about London, in Hide Park, 
 about 6000 horse and foote, in excellent order ; his Majesty and in- 
 finity of people being present. 
 
 17. I went to my house in the country, refusing to be present at 
 what was to passe at the Privy Seale the next day. In the morning 
 Dr. Tenison preached an incomparable discourse at White-hall, on 
 2 Timothy 3, 4. 
 
 24. Dr. Cradock (Provost of Eaton) preached at the same place on 
 49 Psalm 13. shewing the vanity of earthly enjoyments. 
 
 28. Dr. White, Bp. of Peterboro', preach'd in a very eloquent style, 
 on 26 Matthew, 29, submission to the will of God on all accidents and 
 at all times. 
 
 29. The Duke of Northumberland (a natural son of the late King 
 > by the Dutchess of Cleaveland) marrying very meanly, with the helpe 
 ■ of his brother Grafton, attempted to spirit away his wife. 
 
 A Briefe was read in all Churches for reheving the French Pro- 
 testants who came here for protection from the unheard- of cruelties of 
 their King. 
 
 Aprill 2. Sir Edward Hales, a Papist, made Governor of Dover 
 Castle.' 
 
 1 Not taking the Test his coachman was set up to inform against him, and claim the ;^5oo 
 penalty. When this was to be brought to trial the Judges were secretly asked their opinions, 
 and such as were not clear with the Court, were turned out. Half of them were dismissed: 
 Burnet, IH. mo, jiij. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 499 
 
 15. The Abp. of York (Dr. John Dolben) now died of the small 
 pox, aged 62, a corpulent man. He was my special loving friend, and 
 whilst Bp. of Rochester (from whence he was translated) my excellent 
 neighbour. He was an unexpressible losse to the whole church, and 
 that province especialy, he being a learned, wise, stoute, and most 
 worthy prelate ; I looke on this as a greate stroke to the poore Church 
 of England, now in this defecting period. 
 
 18. In the afternoone I went to Camberwell to visit Dr. Parr. 
 Aft^ Sermon I accompanied him to his house, where he shew'd me the 
 Life and Letters of the late learned Primate of Armagh (Usher) and 
 among them that letter of Bp. Bramhal's to the Primate, giving notice 
 of the Popish practices to pervert this Nation, by sending an hundred 
 priests into England, who were to conforme themselves to all sectaries 
 and conditions for the more easily dispersing their doctrine amongst us. 
 This letter was the cause of the whole impression being seiz'd, upon, 
 pretence that it was a political or historical account of things not re- 
 lating to theology, tho' it had ben licens'd by the Bishop ; which 
 plainely shew'd what an interest the Papists now had, that a Protestant 
 booke, containing the life and letters of so eminent a man, was not to 
 be publish'd. There were also many letters to and from most of the 
 learned persons his correspondents in Europe. The book will, I doubt 
 not, struggle through this unjust impediment. 
 
 Several Judges were put out, and new complying ones put in. 
 
 25. This day was read in our church the Briefe for a collection for 
 reliefe of the Protestant French, so cruely, barbarously, and inhumanly 
 oppress'd without any thing laied to their charge. It had ben long 
 expected, and at last was with difficulty procur'd to be pubUsh'd, the- 
 interest of the French Ambassador obstructing it. 
 
 5 May. There being a Seale it was fear'd we should be requir'd to 
 passe a doquett dispensing with Dr. Obadiah Walker and four more, 
 whereof one was an apostate curate of Putney ', the others officers of 
 University College, Oxford, to hold their masterships, fellowships, and 
 cures, and keepe publiq schooles, and enjoy all former emoluments, 
 notwithstanding they no more frequented or us'd the public formes of 
 prayers or communion with the Church of England, or tooke the test 
 and oathes of allegiance and supremacy, contrary to 20 Acts of ParUa- 
 ment ; which dispensation being also contrary to his Majesty's owne 
 gracious declaration at the beginning of his reigne, gave umbrage (as 
 well it might) to every good Protestant, nor could we safely have pass'd 
 it under the Privy Seale, wherefore it was done by immediate warrant, 
 sign'd by Mr. Solicitor. 
 
 This Walker was a learned person, of a monkish life, to whose tuition 
 
 1 Edw. Sclater. From a Protestant he became a Roman Catholic ; and in 1689 he read 
 his recantation from that church, and again became a Protestant. Manning and Bray's 
 Surrey, III. 300. 
 
50O PATACY IN THE ASCENDANT. TYRCONNEL GONE TO IRELAND. 
 
 I had more than 30 yeares since recommended the sonns of my worthy 
 friend Mr. Hyldyard of Horsley in Surrey, believing him to be far from 
 what he prov'd, an hypocritical conceal'd Papist, by which he perverted 
 the eldest sonn of Mr. Hyldyard, Sir Edward Hale's eldest sonn, and 
 severall more, to the greate disturbance of the whole Nation, as well as 
 of the University, as by his now publiq defection appear' d. All engines 
 being now at work to bring in Popery, which God in mercy prevent ! 
 
 This day was burnt in the old Exchange, by the common hangman, 
 a translation of a booke written bv the famous Monsieur Claude, relating 
 onely matters of fact concerning the horrid massacres and barbarous 
 proceedings of the French King against his Protestant subjects, with- 
 out any refutation of any facts therein ; so mighty a power and ascen- 
 dant here had the French Ambassador, who was doubtlesse in greate 
 indignation at the pious and truly generous charity of all the Nation, 
 for the reliefe of those miserable sufferers who came over for shelter. 
 
 About this time also the Duke of Savoy, instigated by the French 
 King to extirpate the Protestants of Piedmont, slew many thousands of 
 those innocent people, so that there seem'd to be an universal designe 
 to destroy all that would not go to masse, throughout Europe. Quod 
 avertat D. O. M ! No faith in Princes ! 
 
 12. I refus'd to put the Privy Seale to Dr. Walker's licence for 
 printing and publishing divers Popish books, of which I complain'd 
 both to my Lord of Canterbury (with whom I went to advise in the 
 Council Chamber), and to my Lord Treasurer that evening at his 
 lodgings. My Lord of Canterbury's advice was, that I should follow 
 my owne conscience therein ' ; Mr. Treasurer's, that if in conscience I 
 could dispense with it, for any other hazard he belieVd there was none. 
 Notwithstanding this I persisted in my refusal. 
 
 29. There was no sermon on this anniversary, as there usually had 
 ben ever since the reigne of the present King. 
 
 2 June. Such storms, raine and foul weather, seldom known at this 
 time of the yeare. The camp at Hounslow Heath, from sicknesse and 
 other inconveniences of weather, forc'd to retire to quarters ; the storms 
 being succeeded by excessive hot weather, many grew sick. Greate 
 feasting there, especialy in Lord Dunbarton's quarters. There were 
 inany jealousies and discourses of what was the meaning of this in- 
 campment. 
 
 A Seale this day, mostly pardons and discharges of Knight Baronets 
 fees, which having ben pass'd over for so many yeares, did greatly dis- 
 oblige several families who had serVd his Majestie. Lord Tirconnell 
 gon to Ireland, with greate powers and commissions, giving as much 
 cause of talke as the camp, especialy 19 new privy councillors and 
 judges being now made, amongst which but three Protestants, and Tir- 
 connell made Generall. 
 
 1 Sancroft. Burnet describes him a£ a timid man. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 50I 
 
 New Judges also here, amongst which was Milton, a Papist (brothef 
 to that Milton who wrote for the Regicides), who presum'd to take his 
 place without passing the TestJ Scotland refuses to grant liberty of 
 masse to the Papists there. 
 
 The French persecution more inhuman than ever. The Protestants 
 in Savoy successfully resist the French dragoons sent to murder them, 
 
 The King's chiefe physician in Scotland apostatizing from the Pro- 
 testant religion, does of his own accord publish his recantation at 
 Edinburgh.' 
 
 II. I went to see Middleton's receptacle of water at the New 
 River, and the new Spa Wells neere. 
 
 20. An extraordinary season of violent and sudden raine. The 
 camp still in tents. 
 
 24. My Lord Treasurer settled by greate businesse with Mr. 
 Pretyman, to which I hope God will at last give a prosperous issue. 
 
 25. Now his Majesty, beginning with Dr. Sharp and TuUy, pro- 
 ceeded to silence and suspend divers excellent divines for preaching 
 against Popery. 
 
 27. I had this day ben married 39 yeares— blessed be God for all 
 his mercies. 
 
 The new very young Lord Cheif Justice Herbert declared on the 
 bench that the governmnet of England was entirely in the King ; 
 that the Crown was absolute ; that penal laws were powers lodged in 
 tlie Crown to enable the King to force the execution of the law, but 
 were not bars to bind the King's power ; that he could pardon all 
 offences against the law, and forgive the penalties, and why could he 
 not dispense with them ? by which the Test was abolish'd. Every one 
 was astonish'd. Greate jealousies as to what would be the end of these 
 proceedings. 
 
 6 July. I supp'd with the Countesse of Rochester, where was also 
 the Dutchesse of Buckingham and Madame de Govern^, whose daugh- 
 ter was married to the Marquess of Halifax's sonn. She made me a 
 character of the French King and Dauphin, and of the persecution. 
 That they kept much of the cruelties from the King's knowledge ; that 
 the Dauphin was so afraid of his father, that he durst not let any thing 
 appeare of his sentiments ; that he hated letters arid priests, spent all 
 his time in hunting, and seem'd to take no notice of what was passing. 
 
 ^ Christopher Milton, made a Baron of the Exchequer. He did not hold his situation long, 
 and Dr. Johnson admits that from weakness of constitution he retired before he had done any 
 disreputable act. 
 
 2 Sir Robert Sibbald, who was the most learned antiquary in Scotland, had lived in a coum 
 of philosophical virtue, but in great doubt as to revealed religion, was prevailed on by the 
 Earl of Perth to turn Papist : but he soon became ashamed of having done so on so little 
 inquiry. He went to London for some months, retiring from all company, and went into a 
 deep course of study, by which he came to see into the errors of Popery. He then returned 
 to Scotland, and published his recantation openly in a church. Burnett's Own Times. 111. 
 
£02 DR. ALLIX OF LAMBETH. ECCLESIASTICAL COMMISSIONERS. 
 
 This lady was of a greate family and fortune, and had fled hither 
 for refuge. 
 
 8. I waited on the Abp. at Lambeth, where I din'd and met the 
 famous preacher and writer, Dr. AUix, doubtlesse a most excellent and 
 learned person. The Abp. and he spoke Latin together, and that very 
 readily. 
 
 II. Dr. Meggot, Deane of Winchester, preach'd before the House- 
 hold in St. George's chapell at Windsor, the late King's glorious chapell 
 now seiz'd on by the masse priests. Dr. Cartwright, Deane of Ripon, 
 preach'd before the greate men of the Court in the same place. 
 
 We had now the sad news of the Bishop of Oxford's death,^ an extra- 
 ordinary losse to the poore Church at this time. Many candidates for 
 his Bishoprick and Deanry, Dr. Parker, South, Aldrich, &c. Dr. 
 Walker (now apostatizing) came to Court, and was doubtlesse very 
 buisy. 
 
 13. Note, that standing by the Queene at Bassett (Cards) I ob- 
 serv'd that she was exceedingly concern'd for the losse of ^.80. ; her 
 outward affability much chang'd to statelinesse, since she has ben 
 exalted. 
 
 The season very rainy and inconvenient for the Camps. His Majesty 
 very cherefuU. 
 
 14. Was seal'd at our office the Constitution of certaine Commis- 
 sioners to take upon them the full power of all Ecclesiastical affairs, in 
 as unlimited a manner, or rather greater, than the late High Commis- 
 sion Court, abrogated by Parliament ; for it had not onely faculty to 
 inspect and visite all Bishops dioceses, but to change what laws and 
 statutes they should think fit to alter among the Colledges, tho' 
 founded by private men ; to punish, suspend, fine, &c. give oathes and 
 call witnesses. The maine drift was to suppresse zealous preachers. 
 In sum, it was the whole power of a Vicar General— note the conse- 
 quence ! Of the Cleargy the Commissioners were the Abp. of Canter- 
 bury [Sancroft], Bishops of Durham [Crew] and Rochester [Sprat] ; 
 of the Temporals, the Lord Treasurer, the Lord Chancellor [Jefferies] 
 (who alone was ever to be of the quorum), the Cheife Justice 
 [Herbert], and Lord President [Earl of Sunderland]. 
 
 18. I went to see Sir John Chardin at Greenwich. 
 
 4 August. I din'd at Signior Verrio's, the famous Italian Painter, now 
 settled in his Majesty's garden at St. James's, which he had made a 
 very delicious Paradise. 
 
 8. Our Vicar gone to dispose of his country living in Rutlandshire, 
 having St. Dunstan in the East given him by the Abp. of Canterbury. 
 
 I went to visite the Marquess Ravignd, now my neighbour at 
 Greenewich, retir'd from the persecution in France. He was the 
 Deputy of all the Protestants of that Kingdom in the Parliament of Paris, 
 
 ' Dr. John Fell, also Deane of Christ Church. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 503 
 
 and severall times Ambassador in this and other Courts ; a person 
 of greate learning and experience '. 
 
 8 Sept. Dr. Compton Bp. of London was on Monday suspended, 
 on pretence of not silencing Dr. Sharp of St. Giles's for something of 
 a sermon in which he zealously reprov'd the doctrine of the Roman 
 Catholics. The Bishop having consulted the Civihans, they told him 
 he could not by any Law proceed against Dr. Sharp without producing 
 witnesses, and impleading according to forme : but it was over-rul'd 
 by my Lord Chancellor, and the Bishop sentenc'd without so much as 
 being heard to any purpose. This was thought a very extraordinary 
 way of proceeding, and was universally resented, and so much the 
 rather for that 2 Bishops, Durham (Crewe) and Rochester (Sprat), 
 sitting in the Commission and giving their suffrages, the Abp. of 
 Canterbury refus'd to sit amongst them. He was only suspended 
 ab officio, and that was soone after taken off. He was brother to the 
 Earl of Northampton, had once ben a Souldier, had travelled in Italy, 
 but became a sober, grave, and excellent Prelate. 
 
 12. Buda now taken from the Turks, a Form of Thanksgiving was 
 order'd to be us'd in the (as yet remaining) Protestant ChapeUs and 
 Church of White-hall and Windsor. 
 
 The King of Denmark was besieging Hambrow, no doubt by the 
 French contrivance, to embroile the Protestant Princes in a new warr, 
 that Holland, &c. being ingag'd, matter for new quarrell might arise : 
 the unheard-of persecution of the poore Protestants still raging more 
 than ever. 
 
 22. The Danes retire from Hambrow, the Protestant Princes ap- 
 pearing for their succour, and the Emperor sending his Minatories to 
 the King of Denmark, and also requiring the restoration of the D. of 
 Saxe Gothorp. Thus it pleas'd God to defeate the French designes, 
 which were evidently to kindle a new warr. 
 
 14 Oct His Majestys birth-day ; I was at his rising in his bed- 
 chamber, afterwards in the Parke, where 4 companies of Guards were 
 drawn up. The officers, &c. wonderful rich and gallant ; they did not 
 head their troops, but their next officers, the Colonels being on horse- 
 back by the King whilst they march'd. The Ladys not lesse splendid 
 at Court, where there was a Ball at night, but small appearance of 
 qualitie. All the shops both in the Citty and Suburbs were shut up, 
 and kept as solemnly as any holyday. Bonefires at night in West- 
 minster, but forbidden in the Citty. 
 
 17. Dr. Patric, Deane of Peterborow, preached at Covent Garden 
 Church on 5 Ephes. 18. 19. shewing the costome of the primitive 
 Saints in serving God with Hynans, and their frequent use of them 
 
 1 His son was with King William in Ireland, and was made Earl of Galway.but was dis- 
 missed by violence of party, as being a Frenchman, though his conduct had been in erery 
 respect most excellent, as will be mentioned hereafter. 
 
504. CRANBOUKN. DR. WARREN. LORD MAYOR'S SHEW. DR. BIRCH, 
 
 upon all occasions : perstringing the profane way of mirth and intem- 
 perance of this ungodly age. Afterwards I visited my Lord Cheife 
 Justice of Ireland, with whom I had long and private discourse con- 
 cerning the miserable condition that kingdom was like to be in i\ 
 Tyrconnell's Councils should prevaile at Court. 
 
 23. Went with the Countesse of Sunderland to Cranbourn, a lodge 
 and walke of my Lord Godolphin's in Windsor Parke. There was one 
 room in the house spared in the pulling downe the old one, because 
 the late Dutchesse of York was borne in it ; the rest was built and 
 added to it by Sir Geo. Cateret, Treasurer of the Navy ; and since the 
 whole was purchas'd by my Lord Godolphin, who spake to me to go 
 see it, and advise what trees were fit to be cut downe to improve the 
 dwelling, it being inviron'd with old rotten pollards, which corrupt the 
 aire. It stands on a knowle, which tho' insensibly rising, gives it a 
 prospect over the Keepe of Windsor, about three miles N. E. of it. 
 The ground is clayey and moist : the water stark naught ; the park is 
 pretty ; the house tolerable, and gardens convenient. After dinner we 
 came back to London, having 2 coaches both going and coming, of 6 
 horses apiece, which we chang'd at Houcslow. 
 
 24 Oct. Dr. Warren preached before the Princesse at White-hall 
 on 5 Matthew, of the blessedness of the pure in heart, most elegantly 
 describing the blisse of the beatifical vision. In the afternoone Sir 
 Geo. Wheeler, knight and bart. preach'd on the 4th Matt, upon the 
 necessity of repentance, at St. Margaret's, an honest and devout dis- 
 course, and pretty tolerably perform'd. This gentleman coming from 
 his travels out of Greece fell in love with the daughter of Sir Thomas 
 Higgles, his Majesty's Resident at Venice, niece to the Earle of Bath, 
 and married her. When they return'd into England, being honour'd 
 with knighthood, he would needes turne Preacher, and tooke orders. 
 He publish'd a learned and ingenious book of his travels, and is a 
 very worthy person, a little formal and particular, but exceedingly 
 devoute '. 
 
 27. There was a triumphant shew of the Lord Maior both by land 
 and water, with much solemnity, when yet his power has been so much 
 diminish'd, by the losse of the Citty's former charter. 
 
 5 Nov. I went to St. Martin's in the morning, where Dr. Birch 
 preach'd very boldly against the Papists, from 16 John 2. In the 
 
 • sir George Wheeler was born whilst his parents were in exile at Breda for their attach- 
 ment to King Charles I, He was of Lincoln College, Oxford. On his return from his 
 travels in Asia and Greece he was knightud. Having presented several antiquities which he 
 had collected to the University of Oxford in 1683, they gave him his degree of A. M. He 
 took orders against the advice of powerful friends, but from an earnest desire to be useful as 
 a Parish Priest ; and he well fulfilled his intentions. He became Rector of Houghton-le- 
 Spring in Durham, the living which had been so exemplarily filled by the ' Northren Apostle ' 
 Bernard Gilpin, and whose example he worthily followed. Bishop Crew also gave him a stall 
 in Durham Cathedral. He died on 18 Jan. 1723. His descendants are seated at Otterden in 
 K'^vt, Surtees, ' History of Durham' (1816), where a large account is given of him. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 505 
 
 afternoone I heard Dr. Tillotson in Lincoln's Inn Chapell, on the same 
 text, but more cautiously. 
 
 16. I went with part of my family to passe the melancholy winter 
 in London nt my Bonn's house in Arundel Buildings. 
 
 S Dec. I dined at my Lady Arlington's, Groome of the Stole to 
 the Queene Dowager at Somerset House, where dined divers French 
 Noblemen, driven out of their Country by the persecution. 
 
 16. I carried the Countesse of Sunderland to see the rarities of one 
 Mr. Charleton in the Middle Temple, who shew'd us such a collection 
 as I had never seene in all my travels abroad, either of private gentle- 
 men or princes. It consisted of miniatures, drawings, shells, insects, 
 medailes, natural things, animals (of which divers, I think 100, were 
 kept in glasses of spirits of wine), minerals, precious stones, vessells, 
 curiosities in amber, christal, achat, &c. ; all being very perfect and 
 rare in their kind, especialy his bookes of birds, fish, flowers, and 
 shells, drawn and miniatur'd to the life. He told us that one book 
 stood him in ;^300 ; it was painted by that excellent workman whom 
 the late Gaston Duke of Orleans emploied. This gentleman's whole 
 collection, gathered by himselfe travelling over most parts of Europe, 
 is estimated at ;£8ooo. He appear'd to be a modest and obliging 
 person '. 
 
 29. I went to heare the musiq of the Italians in the New Chapel, 
 now first open'd publickly at White-hall for the Popish service. No- 
 thing can be finer than the magnificent marble work and architecture 
 at the end, where are four statues, representing St. John, St. Peter, St. 
 Paul, and the Church, in white marble, the work of Mr. Gibbons, with 
 all the carving and piUars of exquisite art and greate cost. The altar- 
 piece is the Salutation ; the volto in fresca, the Assumption of the 
 Blessed Virgin according to their tradition, with our Bl. Saviour, and 
 a world of figures, painted by Verrio. The throne where the King and 
 Queene sit is very glorious, in a closet above, just opposite to the altar. 
 Here we saw the Bishop in his mitre and rich copes, with 6 or 7 
 Jesuits and others in rich copes, sumptuously habited, often taking off 
 and putting on the Bishop's mitre, who sate in a chaire with armes 
 pontificaly, was ador'd and cens'd by 3 Jesuits in their copes ; then he 
 went to the altar and made divers cringes, then censing the images 
 and glorious tabernacle plac'd on the altar, and now and then changing 
 place : the crosier, which was of silver, was put into his hand with 
 a world of mysterious ceremony, the musiq playing, with singing. 
 I could not have believ'd I should ever have seene such things in the 
 King of England's Palace, after it had pleas'd God to enlighten this 
 Nation ; but our greate sin has, for the present, eclips'd the blessing, 
 which I hope He will in mercy and his good time restore to its purity. 
 
 1 This collection was afterwards purchased by Sir Hans Sloane, and now forms part of the 
 British Museum. Gent. Mag. Nov. 1816, p. 39s. from Mr. Bagford's papers in the Brit Mus. 
 
S06 TYRCONNELI MADE LORD LIEUTENANT OF IRELAND. 
 
 Little appearance of any Winter as yet. 
 
 1687. 1 Jan. Mr. Wake preach'd at St. Martin's on i Tim. 3. 16 
 concerning the mysterie of Godlinesse. He wrote excellently in answer 
 to the Bishop of Meaux. 
 
 3. A seal to confinn a gift of £ifloo per annum for 99 yeares to the 
 Lord Treasurer out of the Post Office, and £1^00 per annum for ever 
 out of Lord Gray's estate. 
 
 There was now another change of the greate Officers. The Treasury 
 was put into Commission, two profess'd Papists amongst them, viz. 
 Lords Bellasis and Dover, joyn'd with the old ones. Lord Godolphin, 
 Sir Stephen Fox, and Sir J. Earnley. 
 
 17. Much expectation of severall greate men declaring themselves 
 Papists. Lord Tyrconnell gone to succeed the Lord Lieutenant [Cla- 
 rendon] in Ireland, to the astonishment of all sober men, and to the 
 evident ruine of the Protestants in that Kingdom, as well as of its 
 greate improvement going on. Much discourse that all the White Staff 
 Officers and others should be dismiss'd for adhering to their Religion. 
 Popish Justices of the Peace establish'd in all Counties, of the meanest 
 of the people ; Judges ignorant of the Law, and perverting it — so 
 furiously do the Jesuits drive, and even compel Princes to violent 
 courses, and destruction of an excellent Government both in Church 
 and State. God of his infinite mercy open our eyes and turn our 
 hearts, and establish his truth with peace ! The Lord Jesus defend 
 his little Flock, and preserve this threaten'd Church and Nation. 
 
 24, I saw the Queenes new apartment at White-hall, with her new 
 bed, the embrodery of which cost ^3000. The carving about the 
 chimney-piece, by Gibbons, is incomparable. 
 
 30. I heard the famous eunuch Cifaccio sing in the new Popish 
 Chapell this afternoone ; it was indeede very rare, and with greate 
 skill. He came over from Rome, esteemed one of the best voices 
 in Italy. Much crowding — little devotion. 
 
 27 Feb. Mr. Chetwin preached at White-hall on i Rom. 18, a very 
 quaint neate discourse of moral righteousnesse. 
 
 2 March. Came out a Proclamation for universal liberty of con- 
 science in Scotland, and dispensation from all tests and lawes to the 
 contrary, as also capacitating Papists to be chosen into all offices of 
 trust. The mysterie operates. 
 
 3. Dr. Megot Deane of Winchester preached before the Princesse 
 of Denmark on 14 Matt. 23. In the afternoone I went out of towne to 
 meete my Lord Clarendon, returning from Ireland. 
 
 10. His Majesty sent for the Commissioners of the Privy Seale this 
 morning into his bed-chamber, and told us that tho' he had thought fit 
 to dispose of the seale into a single hand, yet he would so provide for 
 us as it should appeare how well he accepted our faithfuU and loyal 
 service, with many gracious expressions to this effect ; upon which we 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 507 
 
 deliver'd the scale into his hands. It was by all the world both hoped 
 and expected that he would have restor'd it to my Lord Clarendon ; 
 but they were astonish'd to see it given to Lord Arundel of Wardour, 
 a zealous Roman Catholic. Indeede it was very hard, and look'd very 
 unkindly, his Majesty (as my Lord Clarendon protested to me, on my 
 going to visite him and long discoursing with him about the affaires of 
 Ireland) finding not the least failure of duty in him during his govern- 
 ment of that kingdom, so that his recall plainely appeared to be from 
 the stronger influence of the Papists, who now got all the preferments. 
 
 Most of the greate Officers, both in the Court and Country, Lords 
 and others, were dismiss'd, as they would not promise his Majesty 
 their consent to the repeal of the Test and penal Statutes against 
 Popish Recusants. To this end most of the Parliament men were 
 spoken to in his Majestys closset, and such as refus'd, if in any place 
 or ofiice of trust, civil or military, were put out of their employments. 
 This was a time of greate trial, but hardly one of them assented, which 
 put the Popish interest much backward. The English Cleargy every 
 where preach'd boldly against their superstition and errors, and were 
 wonderfully foUow'd by the People. Not one considerable proselyte 
 Tvas made in all this time. The party were exceedingly put to the 
 ■worst by the preaching and writing of the Protestants in many excellent 
 treatises, evincing the doctrine and discipline of the Reform'd Religion, 
 to the manifest disadvantage of their adversaries. To this did not a 
 little contribute the sermon preach'd at White-hall before the Princesse 
 •of Denmark and a great croud of People, and at least 30 of the greatest 
 Nobility, by Dr. Ken, Bishop of Bath and Wells, on 8 John 46 (the 
 Gospel of the day) describing thro' his whole discourse the blasphemies, 
 perfidy, wresting of Scripture, preference of tradition before it, spirit of 
 persecution, superstition, legends and fables of the Scribes and Phari- 
 sees, so that aU the auditory understood his meaning of a parallel 
 between them and the Romish Priests, and their new Trent Religion. 
 He exhorted his audience to adhere to the written Word, aud to perse- 
 vere in the Faith taught in the Church of England, whose doctrine for 
 Catholic and soundness he preferr'd to all the Communities and 
 Churches of Christians in the world ; concluding with a kind of pro- 
 phesy, that whatever it suffer'd, it should after a short tnal emerge to 
 the confusion of her adversaries, and the glory of God. 
 
 I went this evening to see the order of the boys and children at 
 Christ's Hospital. There were neere 800 boys and girls so decently 
 clad, cleanly lodg'd, so wholesomly fed, so admirably taught, some the 
 Mathematics, especialy the 40 of the late King's foundation, that 1 was 
 delighted to see the progresse some little youths of 13 and 14 yeares of 
 age had made. I saw them at supper, visited their dormitories, and 
 much admir'd the order, oeconomy, and excellent government of this 
 most charitable seminary. Some are taught for the Universities, 
 
508 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. TRIAL OF BOMBS ON BLACKHEATH. 
 
 Others design'd for Seamen, all for Trades and Callings. The girles 
 are instructed in all such worke as becomes their sex and may fit them 
 for good wives, mistresses, and to be a blessing to their generation. 
 They sung a psalme before they sat downe to supper in the greate hall, 
 to an organ, which play'd all the time, with such cheerfuU harmony 
 that it seem'd to me a vision of angels. I came from the place with 
 infinite satisfaction, having never scene a more noble, pious and 
 admirable Charity. All these consisted of orphans onely. The 
 Foundation was of that pious Prince K. Edw. 6. whose picture (held to 
 be an original of Holbein) is in the Court where the Governors meete 
 to consult on the affaires of the Hospital, and his statue in white marble 
 stands in a nich of the wall below, as you go to the Church, which is a 
 modem, noble, and ample fabric. This Foundation has had, and still 
 has, many Benefactors. 
 
 i6 March. I saw a trial of those devilish murdering mischief-doing 
 engines called Bombs, shot out of the morter-piece on Black-heath. 
 The distance that they are cast, the destruction they make where they 
 fall, is prodigious. 
 
 20. The Bishop of Bath and Wells (Dr. Ken) preach'd at St. Mar- 
 tines to a crowd of people not to be express'd, nor the wonderful elo- 
 quence of this admirable preacher ; the text was 26 Matt. 36 to verse 
 40. describing the bitterness of our Bl. Saviour's agony, the ardour of 
 his love, the infinite obligations we have to imitate his patience and 
 resignation : the means by watching against temptations, and over our- 
 selves, with fervent prayer to attaine it, and the exceeding reward in thj 
 end. Upon all which he made most patheticall discourses. The 
 Communion followed, at which I was participant. I afterwards din'd 
 at Dr. Tenison's with the Bishop and that young, most learned, pious 
 and excellent preacher, Mr. Wake.' In the afternoone I went to heare 
 Mr. Wake at the new-built church of St. Anne, on 8 Mark 34. upon the 
 subject of taking-up the Crosse, and strenuously behaving ourselves in 
 time of persecution, as this now threaten'd to be. 
 
 His Majesty againe prorogu'd the Parliament, foreseeing it would not 
 
 remitt the Laws against Papists, by the extraordinary zeale and bravery 
 
 of its Members, and the free renunciation of the greate Officers both in 
 
 Court and State, who would not be prevail'd with for any temporal 
 
 ■ concerne. 
 
 25. Good Friday. Dr. Tenison preached at St. Martines, on i 
 Peter 2. 24. During the service a man came into neere the middle of 
 the church, with his sword drawne, with severall others in that posture ; 
 in this jealous time it put the congregation into greate confusion ; but it 
 appear'd to be one who fled for sanctuary, being pursued by Bayhffs. 
 
 8 April. I had a re-hearing of my great Cause at the Chancery in 
 Westminster Hall, having 7 of the most learned Council, my adversary 
 
 ^ Afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 509 
 
 5, among which were the Attorney General and late Solicitor Finch, 
 son to the Lord Chancellor Nottingham. The accompt was at last 
 brought to one article of the surcharge, and referr'd to a Master. The 
 Cause lasted two hours and more. _ 
 
 10. In the last weeke there was issu'd a Dispensation from all obli- 
 gations and tests, by which Dissenters and Papists especialyhadpubliq 
 liberty of exercising their severall ways of worship without incurring 
 the penalty of the many Laws and Acts of Parliament to the contrary. 
 This was purely obtain'd by the Papists, thinking thereby to ruine the 
 Church of England, being now the onely Church which so admirably 
 and strenuously oppos'd their superstition. There was a wonderful 
 concourse of people at the Dissenters' Meeting-house in this parish, 
 and the Parish Church [Deptford] left exceeding thin. What this will 
 end in, God Almighty onely knows, but it looks like confusion, which I 
 pray God avert. , • 
 
 1 1. To London about my suit, some terms of accommodation being 
 propos'd. 
 
 19. I heard the famous singer Cifaccio, esteem'd the best in Europe. 
 Indeed his holding out and delicateness in extending and looseing a 
 note with incomparable softnesse and sweetnesse was admirable ; for 
 the rest I found him a mere wanton, effeminate child, very coy, and 
 proudly conceited to my apprehension. He touch'd the harpsichord to 
 his voice rarely well. This was before a select number of particular 
 persons whom Mr. Pepys invited to his house ; and this was obtain'd by 
 particular favour and much difficulty, the Signer much disdaining to 
 shew his talent to any but princes. 
 
 24. At Greenewich, at the conclusion of the Church service, there 
 was a French sermon preach'd after the use of the English Liturgy 
 translated into French, to a congregation of about 100 French Refu- 
 gees, of whom Monsieur Ruvigny was the cheife, and had obtain'd the 
 use of the Church after the Parish service was ended. The Preacher 
 patheticaly exhorted to patience, constancy, and reliance on God amidst 
 all their sufferings, and the infinite rewards to come. 
 
 2 May. I din'd with Mynheer Diskvelts, the Holland Ambassador, 
 a prudent and worthy person. There din'd Lord Middleton principal 
 Secretary of State, Lord Pembroke, Lord Lumley, Lord Preston, Col. 
 Fitz Patrick, and Sir John Chardin. After dinner the Ambassador dis- 
 cours'd of and deplor'd the stupid folly of our politics, in suffering the 
 French to take Luxemburg, it being a place of the most concern to 
 have ben defended, for the interest not onely of the Netherlands, but 
 of England. 
 
 12. To London. Lord Sunderland being Lord President and Sec- 
 retary of State, was made Knight of the Garter and prime favorite.— 
 This day there was such a storme of wind as had seldome happen'd, 
 being a sort of hurricane. It kept the flood out of the Thames, so that 
 
SIO GOVERNMENT PAY THEIR DEBT TO ME. RECOVERY OF TREASURE. 
 
 people went on foote over several places above bridge. Also an earth- 
 quake in severall places in England about the time of the storme. 
 
 26. To London about my agreement with Mr. Pretyman after my 
 tedious suit. 
 
 2 June. I went to London, it having pleas'd his Majesty to grant me 
 a Privy Seal for ^.6000, for discharge of the debt I had ben so many 
 yeares persecuted for, it being indeede for mony drawne over by my 
 father in law Sir R. Browne, during his residence in the Court of France, 
 and so with a much greater sum due to Sir Richard from his Majesty ; 
 and now this part of the arreare being paid, there remains yet due to 
 Aie, as executor of Sir Richard, above ^^^6500 more ; but this deter- 
 mining an expensive chancery suit has ben so great a mercy and provi- 
 dence to me (thro' the kindness and friendship to me of Lord Godol- 
 phin, one of the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury) that I do 
 acknowledge it with all imaginable thanks to my gracious God. 
 
 6 June. I visited my Lady Pierpoint, daughter to Sir John Evelyn, 
 of Deane [in Wilts], now widow of Mr. Pierpoint, and mother of the 
 Earl of KingstoB. She was now engag'd in the marriage of my cousin 
 Evelyn Pierpoint, her second son. 
 
 There was about this time brought into the Downs a vast treasure, 
 which was sunk in a Spanish galloon about 45 years ago somewhere 
 neere Hispaniola or the Bahama islands, and was now weigh'd up by 
 some gentlemen, who were at the charge of divers, &c. to the enrich- 
 ing them beyond all expectation. The Duke of Albemarle's ' share 
 [Governor of Jamaica] came to, I believe, ^50,000. Some private 
 gentlemen who adventur'd ^100 gain'd from 8 to ;^io,ooo. His 
 Majesty's tenth was ^10,000. 
 
 The Camp was now againe pitch'd at Hounslow, the Commanders 
 profusely vying in the expence and magnificence of tents. 
 
 12. Our Vicar preached on 2 Peter 2, 21, upon the danger of re- 
 lapsing into sin. After this I went and heard M. Lamot, an eloquent 
 French preacher at Greenewich, on 30 Prov. 8, 9, a consolatory dis- 
 course to the poore and religious refugees who escaped out of France 
 in the cruel persecution. 
 
 16. I went to Hampton Court to give his Majesty thanks for his 
 late gracious favor, tho' it was but gi'anting what was due. Whilst I 
 was in the Council Chamber, came in some persons at the head of 
 whom was a formal man with a large roll of parchment in his hand, 
 being an Addresse (as he said, for he introduc'd it with a speech) of 
 the people of Coventry giving his Majesty their greate acknowledg- 
 ments for his granting a liberty of conscience ; he added that this was 
 not the application of one party onely, but the unanimous addresse of 
 
 1 The Duke's share amounted to considerably more — it was said about ;^9o,ooo. A medal 
 was struck on this occasion, which is engraVd in Mr. Evelyn's book on that subject, No. 
 XXXVII p. 157. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 511 
 
 Oiurch of England men, Presbyterians, Independents and Anabaptists, 
 to shew how extensive his Majesty's grace was, as taking in all parties, 
 to his indulgence and protection, which had taken away all dissentions 
 and animosities, which would not onely unite them in bonds of Chris- 
 tian charity, but exceedingly encourage their future industry, to the im- 
 provement of trade, and spreading his Majesty's glory throughout the 
 world ; and that now he had given to God his empire, God would es- 
 tablish his ; with expressions of greate loyaltie and submission : and 
 so he gave the roU to the King, which being retum'd to him againe his 
 Majesty caus'd him to read. The Addresse was short, but much to the 
 substance of the Speech of their foreman, to whom the King, pulling 
 off his hat, sayd, that what he had don in giving liberty of conscience, 
 was, what was ever his judgment ought to be don ; and that as he would 
 preserve them in their enjoyment of it during his reigne, so he would 
 indeavour to settle it by Law, that it should never be alter'd by his 
 successo:s. After this he gave them his hand to kisse. It was reported 
 the subscribers were above 1000. 
 
 But this is not so remarkable as an Addresse of the weeke before (as 
 I was assur'd by one present) of some of the Family of Love. His 
 Majesty ask'd them what this worship consisted in, a-nd how many 
 their party might consist of ; they told him their custom was to reade 
 the Scripture and then to preach, but did not give any farther account 
 onely sayd that for the rest they were a sort of refin'd Quakers, but 
 their number very small, not consisting, as they sayd, of above three- 
 score in all, and those cheifly belonging to the Isle of Ely. 
 
 18. I din'd at Mr. Blathwaite's (2 miles from Hampton). This 
 gentleman is Secretary of War, Clerk of the Counsel, &c. having 
 rais'd himselfe by his industry from very moderate circumstances. He 
 is a very proper, handsome person, and very dextrous in businesse, and 
 besides all this, has married a greate fortune. His income by the 
 Army, Counsel, and Secretary to the Committee of forraine plantations, 
 brings him in above ;^2O00 per ann. 
 
 23. The privy seale for ;£6ooo was pass'd to me, so that this tedious 
 affaire was dispatch'd. — Hitherto a very windy and tempestuous sum- 
 mer. — The French Sermons to the refugees were continu'd at Greene- 
 wich Church. 
 
 19 July. I went to Wotton. In the way I din'd at Ashsted with my 
 Lady Mordaunt. 
 
 5 Aug. I went to see Albury, now purchas'd by Mr. Finch (the 
 King's Solicitor, and son to the late Lord Chancellor); I found the 
 garden which I first design'd for the Duke of Norfolk, nothing improVd. 
 
 15. I went to visite Lord Clarendon at Swallow-field, where was 
 my Lord Combery just ariv'd from Denmark, whither he had accom- 
 panied the Prince of Denmark two months before, and now come back. 
 The miserable tyranny under which that nation lives he related to us ; 
 
512 MADE GOVERNOR OF ST. THOS. HOSPITAL. 
 
 ♦he King keeps them under by an army of 40,000 men, all Germans, he 
 not daring to trust his owne subjects. Notwithstanding this, the Danes 
 are exceeding proud, the country very poore and miserable. 
 
 22. Returned home to Sayes Court from Wotton, having ben five 
 weekes absent with my brother and friends, who entertained us very 
 nobly. God be praised for his goodnesse, and this refreshment after 
 my many troubles, and let his mercy and providence ever preserv'e me. 
 Amen. 
 
 3 Sept. The Lord Mayor sent me an Officer with a Staff, to be one 
 of the Governors of St. Thomas's Hospital. 
 
 Persecution raging in France; divers churches there fir'd by light- 
 ning, Priests struck, consecrated hosts, &c. burnt and destroy'd, both 
 at St. Malo's and Paris, at the grand procession on Corpus Christi day. 
 
 13. I went to Lambeth, and din'd with the Abp. After dinner I re- 
 tired into the library, which I found exceedingly improv'd ; there are 
 also divers rare manuscripts in a room.e apart. 
 
 6 Oct. I was godfather to Sir John Chardin's sonn, christen'd at 
 Greenewich Church, nam'd John. The Earle of Bath and Countesse 
 of Carlisle, the other Sponsors. 
 
 29. An Anabaptist, Sir J. Peake, a very odd ignorant person, a me- 
 chanic I think, was Lord Mayor. The King and Queene, and Dadi ' 
 the Pope's Nuncio, invited to feast at Guildhall. A strange turne of 
 affaires, that those who scandaliz'd the Church of England as favourers 
 of Popery, should publiqly invite an emissary from Rome, one who re- 
 presented the very person of their Antichrist ! 
 
 10 Dec. My son was return'd out of Devon, where he had ben on a. 
 Commission from the Lords of the Treasury about a concealment of Land. 
 
 20. 1 went with my Lord Cheife Justice Herbert to see his house 
 at Walton on Thames : ° it is a barren place. To a very ordinary house 
 he had built a very handsome library, designing more building to it 
 than the place deserves in my opinion. He desir'd my advice about 
 laying out his gardens, &c. The next day we went to Weybridge to 
 see some pictures of the Dutch'esse of Norfolk's, particularly the statue, 
 or child in gremio, said to be of Mich. Angelo, but there are reasons 
 to think it rather a copy, from some proportion in the figures ill taken. 
 It was now expos'd to sale. 
 
 1688. 12 Jan. Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, being under very 
 deplorable circumstances on account of his creditors, and especialy 
 the King, I did my endeavor with the Lords of the Treasury to be 
 favourable to him. 
 
 1 Count D'Ada, made afterwards a Cardinal for his services in this embassy. 
 
 2 This is a mistake ; the house was Oatlands in Weybridge. He followed the fortunes o( 
 King James, who gave him his great seal. He was attainted, and Oatlands given to his 
 brother Herbert. He published an apology for the judgment he had given in favour of the 
 King's dispensing powers, which was answered by Mr. Atwood and Sir Robert Atlcins 
 Manning and Bray's Hist, of Surrey, II. 786. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. J'S 
 
 My Lord Arran, eldest son to the Duke of Hamilton, being now 
 married to Lady Ann Spencer, eldest daughter oi the Earle of Sunder- 
 land, Lord President of the Council, I and my family had most glorious 
 favours sent us, the wedding being celebrated with extraordinary 
 splendour. 
 
 I J. There was a solemne and particular Office us'd at our, and al) 
 the Churches of London and lo miles round, for a thanksgiving to 
 God, for her Majesty being with child. 
 
 22. This afternoone I went not to Church, being employed on a 
 religious treatise I had undertaken.' 
 
 Post annum 1588— 1660 — 1688, Annus Mirabilis Tertius.2 
 
 January 30. Being the Martyrdome day of K. Charles the First, 
 our Curate made a florid oration against the murder of that excelleni 
 Prince, with an exhortation to obedience from the example of David, 
 1 Samuel 24, 6. 
 
 12 Feb. My daughter Evelyn going in the coach to visite in the 
 Citty, a jolt (the doore being not fast shut) flung her quite out in such 
 manner as the hind wheeles passed over her a little above her knees. 
 Yet it pleased God, besides the bruises of the wheeles, she had no other 
 harme. In two days she was able to walke, and soone after perfectly 
 well ; thro' God Almighty's greate mercy to an excellent wife and a 
 most dutiful and discreete daughter-in-law. 
 
 17. I receiv'd the sad news of my niece Mountague's death at 
 Woodcot on the 15th. 
 
 15 Mar. I gave in my account about the Sick and Wounded, in 
 order to have my quietus. 
 
 23. Dr. Parker, Bishop of Oxford, who so lately publish'd his extra- 
 vagant treatise about transubstantiation, and lor abrogating the Tes^t 
 and Penal Laws, died. He was esteem'd a violent, passionate, haughty 
 man, but yet being press'd to declare for the Church ot Rome, he utterly 
 refus'd it. A remarkable end. 
 
 The French Tyrant now finding he could make no proselytes amongst 
 those Protestants of quality, and others, whom he had caus'd to be 
 shut up in dungeons, and confin'd to nunneries and monasteries, gave 
 them, after so long trial, a. general releasement, and leave to go out of 
 the kingdom, but utterly taking away their estates, and their children ; 
 so that greate numbers came daily into England and other places, 
 where they were receiv'd and reliev'd with very considerate Christian 
 charity. This Providence and goodnesse of God to those who thus 
 constantly held out, did so work upon those miserable poore soules, 
 who, to avoyd the persecution sign'd their renunciation, and to save 
 their estates went to masse, that reflecting on what they had don, they 
 grew so affected in their conscience, that not being able to support it, 
 
 » What this was does not appear ; but there are several of his composition remaining in M S. 
 8 This seems added after the page was written. 
 
 33 
 
514 CRUEL USAGE OF PROTESTANTS IN FRANCE. DR. STILLINGFLEET. 
 
 they in greate numbers thro' all the French provinces, acquainted the 
 Magistrates and Lieutenants that, being sorry for their apostacy, they 
 were resolved to return to their old religion ; that they would go no 
 more to masse, but peaceably assemble when they could, to beg pardon 
 and worship God, but so without weapons as not to give the least um- 
 brage of rebellion or sedition, imploring their pity and commiseration ; 
 and accordingly meeting so from time to time, the dragoon missioners. 
 Popish officers and priests, fell upon them, murder'd and put them to 
 death, whoever they could lay hold on ; they without the least resist- 
 ance embraced death, torture or hanging, with singing psalmes and 
 praying for their persecutors to the last breath, yet still continuing the 
 former assembling of themselves in desolate places, suffering with in- 
 credible constancy, that thro' God's mercy they might obtain pardon 
 for this lapse. Such examples of Christian behaviour have not ben 
 seen since the primitive persecutions ; and doubtlesse God will do 
 some signal worke in the end, if we can with patience and resignation 
 hold out, and depend on his Providence. 
 
 24 Mar. I went with Sir Charles Littleton to Sheene, an house and 
 estate given him by Lord Brouncker ; one who was ever noted for a 
 hard, covetous, vicious man, but for his worldly craft and skill in 
 gaming, few exceeded him. Coming to die, he bequeath'd all his land, 
 house, furniture, &c. to Sir Charles, to whom he had no manner of re- 
 lation, but an ancient friendship contracted at the famous siege of Col- 
 chester, 40 yeares before. It is a pretty place, with fine gardens, and 
 well planted, and given to one worthy of them, Sir Charles being an 
 honest gentleman and souldier. He is brother to Sir Henry Littleton 
 of Worcestershire, whose greate estate he is likely to inherit, his bro- 
 ther being without children. They are descendants of the great lawyer 
 of that name, and give the same arms and motto. He is married 
 to one Mrs. Temple, who was formerly maide of honour to the late 
 Queene, a beautiful lady, and he has many fine children, so that none 
 envy his good fortune. 
 
 After dinner we went to see Sir William Temple's neere to it ; the 
 most remarkable things are his orangerie and gardens, where the wall 
 fruit trees are most exquisitely nail'd and train' d, far better than I ever 
 noted elsewhere. 
 
 There are many good pictures, especialy of Vandyke's in. both these 
 houses, and some few statues and small busts in the latter. 
 
 From thence we went to Kevv, to visite Sir Henry Capell's, whose 
 orangerie and myrtelum are most beautifuU and perfectly well kept. 
 He was contriving very high palisados of reeds to shade his oranges 
 during the summer, and painting those reeds in oil. 
 
 I April. In the morning the first sermon was by Dr. Stillingfleet 
 Dean of St. Paul's (at Whitehall) on 10 Luke 41, 42. The holy Com- 
 munion follow'd but was soinerruptedbythe rude breaking in of mul- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 515 
 
 tUudes zealous to hear the second sermon, to be preach'd by the Bp. of 
 Bath and Wells, that the latter part of that holy office could hardly be 
 heard, or the sacred elements be distributed without greate trouble. The 
 Princesse being come, he preach'd on 7 Mich. 8. 9. 10. describing the 
 calamity of the Reform'd church of Judah under the Babylonian per- 
 secution, for her sins, and God's delivery of her on her repentance ; 
 that as Judah emerg'd so should the now Reform'd Church, wherever 
 insulted and persecuted. He preach'd with his accustom'd action, 
 zeal, and energy, so that people flock'd from all quarters to heare him. 
 
 1 5 April. A dry, cold, backward spring, easterly winds. 
 
 The persecution still raging in France, multitudes of Protestants, and 
 many very considerable and greate persons flying hither, produc'd a se- 
 cond general contribution, the Papists, by God's Providence, as yet 
 making small progress amongst us. 
 
 29. The weather was, till now, so cold and sharp, by an almost per- 
 petual East wind which had continued many monthes, that there was 
 little appearance of any Spring, and yet the Winter was very favour- 
 able as to frost and snow. 
 
 2 May. Went to London about my petition for allowances upon, 
 the account of Commissioner for sick and wounded in the former war 
 with Holland. 
 
 8. His Majesty, alarm'd by the greate fleete of the Dutch (whilst we 
 had a very inconsiderable one), went down to Chatham ; their fleete 
 was well prepar'd, and out, before we were in any readinesse, or had 
 any considerable number to have encounter'd them had there ben occa- 
 sion to the great reproch of the Nation ; whilst being in profound 
 peace, there was a mighty land army, which there was no neede of, and 
 no force at sea, where only was the apprehension ; but the army was 
 doubtless kept and increas'd in order to bring in and countenance 
 Popery, the King beginning to discover his intentions, by many in- 
 stances pursued by the Jesuits, against his first resolution to alter 
 nothing in the Church establishment, so that it appear'd there can 
 be no reliance on Popish promises. 
 
 18. The King injoyning the ministers to read his Declaration for 
 giving liberty of conscience (as it was styl'd) in all the Churches oi 
 England, this evening 6 Bishops, Bath and Wells (Thos. Ken), Peter- 
 borough (Thos. White), Ely (Fr. Turner), Chichester (John Lake), St. 
 Asaph (Wm. Lloyd), and Bristol (Sir John Trelawney, Bart.), in the 
 name of all the rest of the Bishops, came to his Majesty to petition 
 him that he would not impose the reading of it to the several congre- 
 gations within their dioceses ; not that they were averse to the publish- 
 ing of it for want of due tendernesse towards Dissenters, in relation to 
 whom they should be willing to come to such a temper as should be 
 thought fit, when that matter might be consider'd and settl'd in Parliar 
 ment and Convocation ; but that, the Declaration being founded on 
 
5l6 REFUSAL OF THE BISHOPS TO HEED THE ROYAL INJUNCTIONS. 
 
 such a dispensing power as might at pleasure set aside all Laws Eccle- 
 siastical and Civil, it appear'd to them illegal, as it had done to the 
 Parliament in 1661 and 1672, and that it was a point of such conse- 
 quence that they could not so far make themselves parties to it, as the 
 reading of it in Church in time of divine service amounted to. 
 
 The King was so far incens'd at this addresse, that he with threaten- 
 ing expressions, commanded them to obey him in reading it at their 
 perils, and so dismiss'd them. 
 
 20. I went to White-hall Chapell, where, after the morning lessons, 
 the Declaration was read by one of the Choir who us'd to read the 
 •chapters. I heare it was read in the Abby Church, Westminster, but 
 almost universaly forborne throughout all London : the consequences 
 'Of which a little time will shew. 
 
 25. All the discourse now was about the Bishops refusing to read 
 the injunction for the abolition of the Test, &c. It seemes the injunc- 
 Ttion came so crudely from the Secretary's office, that it was neither 
 ■seal'd nor sign'd in forme, nor had any Lawyer ben consulted, so as the 
 Bishops, who took all imaginable advice, put the Court to greate diffi- 
 <:ulties how to proceede against them. Greate were the consults, and a 
 ■proclamation expected all this day, but nothing was don. The action 
 of the Bishops was universaly applauded, and reconcil'd many ad- 
 verse parties. Papists only excepted, who were now exceedingly per- 
 >plex'd, and violent courses were every moment expected. The report 
 •was that the Protestant secular Lords and Nobility would abett the 
 Clergy. 
 
 The Queene Dowager, hitherto bent on her returne into Portugal, 
 inow on the sudden, on allegation of a greate debt oweing her by his 
 Majesty disabling her, declares her resolution to stay. 
 
 News ariv'd of the most prodigious earthquake that was almost ever 
 •heard of, subverting the Citty of Lima and country in Peru, with a 
 •dreadfuU inundation following it. 
 
 8 June. This day the Archbishop of Canterbury, with the Bishops 
 of Ely, Chichester, St. Asaph, Bristol, Peterborough, and Bath and 
 Wells, were sent from the Privy Council prisoners to the Tower, for re- 
 fusing to give baile for their appearance, on their not reading the 
 Declaration for liberty of conscience ; they refus'd to give baile, as it 
 -would have prejudic'd their Peerage. The concern of the people for 
 ithem was wonderful!, infinite crouds on their knees begging their bless- 
 ■ing, and praying for them as they pass'd out of the barge along the 
 Tower-wharfe. 
 
 10. Kyoimg Prince borne, which will cause disputes. 
 
 About 2 o'clock we heard the Tower ordnance discharg'd, and the 
 bells ringing for the birth of a Prince of Wales. This was very sur- 
 prising, it having ben universally given out that her Majesty did not 
 look till the next moneth. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 517 
 
 13. I went to the Tower to see the Bishops, visited the Abp. and 
 Bps. of Ely, St. Asaph, and Bath and Wells. 
 
 14. Din'd with my Lord Chancellor. 
 
 15 June. Being the first day of Term, the Bishops were brought to 
 Westminster on Habeas Corpus, when the Indictment was read, and 
 they were called on to plead ; their Council objected that the Warrant 
 was illegal, but after long debate it was over-ruled, and they pleaded. 
 The Court then offered to take bail for their appearance, but this they 
 refused, and at last were dismissed on their own recognizances to ap- 
 peare that day fortnight ; the Abp. in 200/. the Bishops 100/. each. 
 
 29. They appeared ; the trial lasted from 9 in the morning to past 
 6 in the evening, when the Jury retired to consider of their verdict, and 
 the Court adjourned to 9 the next morning. The Jury were locked up 
 till that time, 1 1 of them being for an acquittal, but one (Arnold a 
 brewer) would not consent. At length he agreed with the others. The 
 Cheif Justice Wright behaved with great moderation and civiUty to the 
 Bishops. Alibone, a Papist, was strongly against them ; but HoUoway 
 and Powell being of opinion in their favour, they were acquitted. 
 When this was heard, there was great rejoicing ; and there was a lane 
 of people from the King's Bench to .the water side, on their knees, as 
 the Bishops pass'd and repass'd, to beg their blessing. Bonfires were 
 made that night, and bells 'rung, which was taken very ill at Court, 
 and an appearance of neere 60 Earls and Lords, &c. on the bench, did 
 not a little comfort them, but indeede they were all along full of comfort 
 and cheerfull. 
 
 Note, they denied to pay the Lieutenant of the Tower (Hales, whO' 
 us'd them very surlily) any fees, alledging that none were due. 
 
 17. Was a day of Thanksgiving in London and 10 miles about for 
 the young Prince's birth ; a form of prayer made for the purpose by the 
 Bp. of Rochester. 
 
 The night was solemnized with bonfires and other fire-works, &c. 
 
 2 July. The two Judges Holloway and Powell were displaced. 
 
 3. I went with Dr. Godolphin and his brother Sir William to St. 
 Alban's to see a library he would have bought of the widow of Dr. 
 Cartwrite, late Archdeacon of St. Alban's, a very good collection of 
 books, especialy in divinity ; he was to give ^300 for them. Having 
 seen the greate Church, now newly repair'd by a public contribution, 
 we return'd home. 
 
 8. One of the King's Chaplains preach'd before the Princess on 
 14 Exodus 1 3, 'Stand still and behold the salvation of the Lord,' which 
 he applied so boldly to the present conjuncture of the Church of 
 England, that more could scarce be said to encourage desponders. 
 The Popish Priests were not able to carry their cause against their 
 learned adversaries, who confounded them both by their disputes and 
 their writings. 
 
5l8 DISCONTENT OF THE NATION. THE PRINCE OF ORANGE. 
 
 12 July. The Camp now began at Hounslow, but the Nation was 
 in high discontent. 
 
 Col. Titus, Sir Hen. Vane (son of him who was executed for his 
 treason), and some other of the Presbyterians and Independent party, 
 were swome of the Privy Council, from hopes of thereby diverting 
 that party from going over to the Bishops and Church of England, 
 which now they began to do, foreseeing the designe of the Papists to 
 descend and take in their most hateful of heretics (as they at other 
 times expressed them to be), to effect their own ends, now evident ; 
 the utter extirpation of the Church of England first, and then the rest 
 would follow. 
 
 17 July. This night the Fireworks were plaied off, that had ben 
 prepar'd for the Queene's up-sitting. We saw them to great advantage ; 
 they were very fine, and cost some thousands of pounds, in the pyramids, 
 statues, &c. but were spent too soone for so long a preparation. 
 
 26. I went to Lambeth to visit the Archbishop whom I found 
 very cheerful!. 
 
 10 August. Dr. Tenison now told me there would suddenly be some 
 greate thing discover'd. This was the Prince of Orange intending to 
 come over. 
 
 15. I went to Althorp in Northamptonshire, 70 miles. A coach 
 and 4 horses took up me and my sonn at White-hall, and carried us 
 to Dunstable, where we ariv'd and din'd at noone, and from thence 
 another coach and 6 horses carried us to Althorp, 4 miles beyond 
 Northampton, where we ariv'd by 7 o'clock that evening. Both these 
 coaches were hir'd for me by that noble Countesse of Sunderland, who 
 invited me to her house at Althorp, where she entertain'd me and my 
 sonn with extraordinary kindness ; I stay'd till the Thursday. 
 
 18. Dr. Jeffryes, the minister of Althorp, who was my Lord's 
 chaplain when Ambassador in France, preach'd the shortest discourse 
 I ever heard ; but what was defective in the amplitude of his sermon, he 
 had supplied in thelargeness and convenience of the Parsonage house, 
 which the Dr. (who had at least ^600 a year in spiritual advancement) 
 had new built, and made fit for a person of quality to live in, with 
 gardens and all accommodation according therewith. 
 
 My Lady carried us to see Lord Northampton's seat, a very strong 
 large house, built with stone, not altogether modern. They were en- 
 larging the garden, in which was nothing extraordinary, except the 
 iron gate opening into the Park, which indeede was very good work, 
 wrought in flowers, painted with blue and gilded. There is a noble 
 walke of elmes towards the front of the house, by the bowling greene. 
 I was not in any roome of the house besides a lobby looking into the 
 garden, where my Lord and his new Countesse (Sir Ste. Fox's daughter, 
 whom I had knowne from a child) entertain'd the Countesse and her 
 daughter the Countesse of Arran (newly married to the son of the 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 519 
 
 Duke of Hamilton) with so little good grace, and so dully, that oui 
 visite was very short, and so we return'd to Althorp, twelve miles 
 distant. 
 
 The house, or rather palace, at Althorp, is a noble uniform pile in 
 form of a half H, built of brick and freestone, ballustred and a la mo- 
 dernej the hall is well, the staircase excellent ; the roomes of state, 
 gallerys, offices and furniture, such as may become a greate Prince. It 
 is situate in the midst of a garden, exquisitely planted and kept, and all 
 this in a parke wall'd in with hewn stone, planted with rows and walkes 
 of trees, canals and fish ponds, and stor'd with game. And what is 
 above all this, govern'd by a lady, who without any shew of soUicitude, 
 keepes every thing in such admirable order, both within and without, 
 from the garret to the cellar, that I do not believe there is any in this 
 nation, or in any other, that exceedes her in such exact order, without 
 ostentation, but substantially greate and noble. The meanest servant 
 is lodg'd so neat and cleanly ; the service at the several tables, the good 
 order and decency — in a word, the intire oeconomy, is perfectly becoming 
 a wise and noble person. She is one who for her distinguish'd esteeme 
 of me from a long and worthy friendship, I must ever honour and cele- 
 brate. I wish from my soul the Lord her husband (whose parts and 
 abilities are otherwise conspicuous) was as worthy of her, as by a fatal 
 apostacy and court ambition he has made himself unworthy. This is 
 what she deplores, and it renders her as much affliction as a lady of 
 greate soul and much prudence is capable of. The Countesse of Bristol 
 her mother, a grave and honourable lady, has the comfort of seeing her 
 daughter and grandchildren under the same oeconomy, especialy Mr. 
 Charles Spencer,' a youth of extraordinary hopes, very learned for his 
 age, and ingenious, and under a governor of greate worth. Happy 
 were it could as much be said of the elder brother, the Lord Spencer, 
 who, rambling about the world, dishonours both his name and his fa- 
 mily, adding sorrow to sorrow to a mother who has taken all imagin- 
 able care of his education. There is a daughter very young married to 
 the Earl of Clancartie, who has a greate and faire estate in Ireland, 
 but who yet gives no greate presage of worth, — so universally contami- 
 nated is the youth of this corrupt and abandon'd age ! But this is 
 againe recompenc'd by my Lord Arran, a sober and worthy gentleman, 
 who has espous'd the Lady Ann Spencer, a young lady of admirable 
 accomplishments and virtue. 
 
 23. I left this noble place and conversation, my lady having pro- 
 vided carriages to convey us back in the same manner as we went, and 
 a dinner being prepared at Dunstable against our arrival, Northamp- 
 ton, having ben lately burnt and re-edified, is now become a town that 
 
 1 The eldest son dying without issue, this Charles succeeded to the title and estate, and 
 marrying to his second wife one of the daughters and at length coheirs to John Duke of 
 Marlborough, his son by her succeeded to that title. 
 
520 ECCLESIASTICAL COMMISSION. THE COURT IN CONSTERNATION. 
 
 for the beauty of the buildings, especialy the church and town-house, 
 
 may compare with the neatest in Italy itselfe. 
 
 Dr. Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, wrote a very honest and handsome 
 letter to the Commissioners Ecclesiastical, excusing himselfe from sit- 
 ting any longer among them, he by no meanes approving of their 
 prosecuting the Cleargy who refus'd to reade the Declaration for liberty 
 of conscience, in prejudice of the Church of England. 
 
 The Dutch make extraordinary preparations both at sea and land, 
 which with the very small progresse Popery makes among us, puts us to 
 many difficulties. The Popish Irish soldiers commit many murders 
 and insults ; the whole Nation disaffected, and in apprehensions. 
 
 After long trials of the doctors to bring up the little Prince of Wales 
 by hand (so many of her Majesty's children having died infants) not 
 succeeding, a country nurse, the wife of a tile-maker, is taken to give 
 the child suck. 
 
 1 8 Sept. I went to London, where I found the Court in the utmost 
 consternation on report of the Prince of Orange's landing, which put 
 White-hall into so panic a feare, that I could hardly believe it possible 
 to find such a change. 
 
 Writs were issued in order to a Parliament, and a declaration to back 
 the good order of elections, with greate professions of maintaining the 
 Church of England, but without giving any sort of satisfaction to the 
 people, who now shew'd their high discontent at several things in the 
 Government. 
 
 Earthquakes had utterly demolish'd the ancient Smyrna, and several) 
 other places in Greece, Italy, and even in the Spanish Indies, fore- 
 runners of greater calamities. God Almighty preserve his Church and 
 all who put themselves under the shadow of his wings, till these things 
 be over-past ! 
 
 30. The Court in so extraordinary a consternation on assurance of 
 the Prince of Orange's intention to land, that the writs sent forth for a 
 Parliament were recall'd. 
 
 7 Oct. Dr. Tenison preach'd at St. Martines, on 2 Tim. 3. 16. shew- 
 ing the Scriptures to be our only rule of faith, and its perfection above 
 all traditions. After which neere looo devout persons partook of the 
 Communion. This sermon was cheifly occasion'd by a Jesuite, who in 
 the Masse-house on the Sunday before had disparag'd the Scripture 
 and rail'd at our translation, which some present contradicting, they 
 puU'd him out of the Pulpit, and treated him very coarsely, insomuch 
 that it was like to create a greate disturbance in the Citty. 
 
 Hourly expectation of the Prince of Orange's invasion heighten'd to 
 that degree that his Majesty thought fit to abrogate the Commission 
 for the dispensing power (but retaining his own right still to dispense 
 with all laws) and restore the ejected Fellows of Magdalen College, 
 Oxford. In the mean time he call'd over 5000 Irish, and 4000 Scots, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 521 
 
 and continued to remove Protestants and put in Papists at Portsmouth 
 and other places of trust, and retained the Jesuites about him, increas- 
 ing the universal discontent. It brought people to so desperate a passe, 
 that they seem'd passionately to long for and desire the landing of that 
 Prince whom they look'd on to be their deliverer from Popish tyranny^ 
 praying incessantly for an East wind, which was said to be the only 
 hindrance of his expedition with a numerous army ready to make a 
 descent. To such a strange temper, and unheard-of in former times, 
 was this poore Nation reduc'd, and of which I was an eye-witness. The 
 apprehension was (and with reason) that his Majesty's forces would 
 neither at land or at sea oppose them with that vigour requisite to re- 
 pel the invaders. 
 
 The late imprisoned Bishops were now call'd to reconcile matters, 
 and the Jesuites hard at worke to foment confusion among the Pro 
 testants by their usual tricks. A lelter was sent to the Abp. of Can- 
 terbury 1, informing him, from good hands, of what was contriving by 
 them. A paper of what the Bishops advis'd his Majesty was pubhsh'd. 
 The Bishops were injoin'd to prepare a form of prayer against the 
 
 * By Mr. Evelyn, The letter was as follows : 
 
 • My Lord. The honor and reputation which your Grace's piety, prudence, and signal 
 courage, have justly merited and obtain'd not onely from the Sons of the Church of England, 
 but even universaly from those Protestants amongst us who are Dissenters from her disci- 
 pline ; God Almighty's providence and blessing upon your Grace's vigilancy and extraordinary 
 endeavors will not suffer to be diminish'd in this conjuncture. The conversation I now and 
 then have with some in place, who have the opportunity of knowing what is doing in the 
 most seacret recesses and cabals of our Churches adversaries, obliges me to acquaint you^ 
 that the calling of your Grace and the rest of the Lords Bishops to Court, and what has there 
 of late ben requir'd of you, is onely to create a jealousle and suspicion amongst well-meaning 
 people of such compliances as it is certaine they have no cause to apprehend. The Plan of 
 this and of all that which is to follow of seeming favour thence, is wholly drawn by the Je- 
 suites, who are at this time more than ever buisy to make divisions amongst us, all other arts 
 and mechanisms having hitherto failed them. They have, with other things, contriv'd that 
 your Lordships the Bishops should give his Majesty advice separately, without calling any of 
 the rest of the Peeres, which, tho' maliciously suggested, spreads gen era ly about the Towne. 
 I do not at all question but your Grace will speedily prevent the operation of this venome, and 
 that you will thinke it highly necessary so to do, that your Grace is also injoyn'd to compose 
 a form of prayer, wherein the Pr. of O. is expressly to be named the Invader : of this I pre- 
 sume not to say any thing ; but for as much as in all the Declarations, &c. which have hitherto 
 been published in pretended favour of the Church of England, there is not once the least 
 mention of the I^eforinedor Protestant Religion, but onely of the Chtirch of England as. 
 by Law establisJied, which Church the Papists tell us is the Church 0/ Rome, which is (say 
 they) the Catholic Church of England that onely is establish'd by Law ; the C. of England 
 in the Reformed sense so established is but an usurp'd authority. The antiquity of that 
 would by these words be explained, and utterly defeate this false and subdolous construction, 
 and take off all exceptions whatsoever ; if in all extraordinary offices, upon these occasioni, 
 the words Reformed and Protestant were added to that of the Church of England by Laim 
 established. And whosoever threatens to invade or come against us, to the prejudice of that 
 Church, in God's name, be they Dutch or Irish, let us heartily pray and fight against them. 
 My Lord, this is, I confesse, a bold, but honest period ; and though I am well assured that 
 your Grace is perfectly acquainted with all this before, and therefore may blame my imperti- 
 nence, as that dos aXXolpioex-o-Koirtli'jyet I am confident you will not reprove the zeale of ona 
 who most humbly beggs your Grace's pardon, with your blessing. Load. 10 Oct. 168& 
 {From a copy in Mr. Evelyn's hand-writing.) 
 
522 TUMULT IN LONDON. BIRTH OF THE PRINCE OF WALES. 
 
 fear'd invasion. A pardon publish'd. Souldiers and mariners are 
 daily press'd. 
 
 14 Oct. The King's birth-day. No gunns from the Tower as usual. 
 The sun eclips'd at its rising. This day signal for the victory of Wil- 
 liam the Conqueror against Harold, near Battel in Sussex. The wind, 
 which had been hitherto West, was East all this day. WonderfuU ex- 
 pectation of the Dutch fleet. Public prayers order'd to be read in the 
 Churches against invasion. 
 
 28. A tumult in London on the rabble demolishing a Popish 
 Chapel that had ben set up in the Citty. 
 
 29. Lady Sunderland acquainted me with his Majesty's taking away 
 the seales from Lord Sunderland, and of her being with the Queene 
 to intercede for him. It is conceiv'd that he had of late grown remisse 
 in pursuing the interest of the Jesuitical Counsells ; some reported one 
 thing, some another ; but there was doubtless some secret betray'd 
 Tvhich time may discover. 
 
 There was a Counsel call'd, to which were summon'd the Archbp. of 
 Canterbury, the Judges, the Lord Maior, &c. The Queene Dowager, 
 and all the Ladies and Lords who were present at the Queene Con- 
 sort's labour, were to give their testimony upon oath of the Prince of 
 Wales's birth, recorded both at the Counsel Board and at the Chan- 
 cery a day or two after. This procedure was censur'd by some as below 
 his Majesty to condescend to, on the talke of the people. It was re- 
 markable that on this occasion the Abp., Marquess of Halifax, the 
 Earles of Clarendon and Nottingham, refus'd to sit at the Counsel 
 table amongst Papists, and their bold telling his Majesty that whatever 
 was don whilst such sate amongst them was unlawful! and incurr'd 
 premunirej — at least if what I heard be true. 
 
 32. I din'd with Lord Preston, made Secretary of State in the place 
 of the Earle of Sunderland. 
 
 Visited Mr. Boyle, when came in the Duke of Hamilton and Earle 
 of Burlington. The Duke told us many particulars of Mary Queene 
 of Scots, and her amours with the Italian favorite, &c. 
 
 31. My birth-day, being the 68th year of my age. O blessed Lord, 
 grant as I grow in yeares, so may I improve in grace ! Be Thou my 
 protector this foUov/ing year, and preserve me and mine from those 
 dangers and greate confusions that threaten a sad revolution to this 
 sinfull Nation ! Defend thy Church, our Holy religion, and just 
 Laws, disposing his Majesty to listen to sober and healing Counsels, 
 that if it be Thy blessed will we may still enjoy that happy tranquillity 
 which hitherto Thou hast continued to us ! Amen, Amen ! 
 
 I Nov. Din'd with Lord Preston with other company at Sir Stephen 
 Fox's. Continual alarmes of the Prince of Orange, but no certainty. 
 Reports of his greate losses of horse in the storme, but without any 
 assurance. A man was taken wtth divers papers and printed mani- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 523 
 
 festos, and carried to Newgate after examination at the Cabinet 
 Council. There was likewise a Declaration of the States for satisfac- 
 tion of all Public Ministers at the Hague, except to the English and 
 the French. There was in that of the Prince's an expression as il the 
 Lords both Spiritual and Temporal had invited him over, with a de- 
 duction of the causes of his enterprize. This made his Majesty con- 
 vene my Lord of Canterbury and the other Bishops now in towne, to 
 give an account of what was in the Manifesto, and to enjoyne them to 
 clear themselves by some publiq writing of this disloyal charge. 
 
 2. It was now certainly reported by some who saw the fleete, and 
 the Prince imbarke, that they sail'd from the Brill on Wednesday 
 morning, and that the Princesse of Orange was there to take leave of 
 her husband. 
 
 4. Fresh reports of the Prince being landed somewhere about 
 Portsmouth or the Isle of Wight, whereas it was thought it would 
 have ben Northward. The Court in greate hurry. 
 
 5. I went to London ; heard the newesofthe Prince having landed 
 at Torbay, coming with a fleete of neere 700 saile, passing through 
 the Channell with so favourable a wind that our navy could not inter- 
 cept or molest them. This put the King and Court into greate con- 
 sternation ; they were now employ'd in forming an army to stop their 
 further progresse, for they were got into Exeter, and the season and 
 ways veryimproper for his Majesty's forces to march so greate adistance. 
 
 The Abp. of Canterbury and some few of the other Bishops and 
 Lords in London were sent for to White-hall, and requir'd to set forth 
 their abhorrence of this invasion. They assur'd his Majesty they had 
 never invited any of the Prince's party, or were in the least privy to it, 
 and would be ready to shew all testimonie of their loyalty ; but as to 
 a public Declaration, being so few, they desir'd that his Majesty would 
 call the rest of their brethren and Peeres that they might consult what 
 was fit to be don on this occasion, not thinking it right to publish any 
 thing without them, and till they had themselves seen the Prince's 
 Manifesto, in which it was pretended he was invited in by the Lords 
 Spiritual and Temporal. This did not please the King; and so 
 they departed. 
 
 A Declaration was publish'd prohibiting all persons to see or reade 
 the Prince's Manifesto, in v/hich was set forth at large the cause of his 
 expedition, as there had ben one before from the States. 
 
 These are the beginnings of sorrow, unlesse God in His mercy pre- 
 vent it by some happy reconciliation of all dissentions amongst us. 
 This, in all likehhood, nothing can effect except a free Parliament ; 
 but this we cannot hope to see whilst there are any forces on either 
 side. I pray God to protect and direct the King for the best and truest 
 interest of his People !— I saw his Majesty touch for the evil, Piten the 
 Jesuit, and Warner officiating. 
 
524 JAMES II. DESERTS HIS KIXCDOM. THE PRINCE AT WINDSOR. 
 
 14 Nov. The Prince increases evei^ day in force. Several Lords go 
 in to him. Lord Cornburry carries some regiments, marches to Honi- 
 ton, the Prince's head quarters. The Citty of London in disorder ; the 
 rabble puU'd down the Nunnery newly bought by the Papists of Lord 
 Berkeley at St John's. The Queene prepares to go to Portsmouth 
 for safety, to attend the issue of this national commotion, which has 
 a dreadfuU aspect. 
 
 18. It was now very hard frost. The King goes to Salisbury to 
 rendezvous the army, and returnes to London. Lord Delamere ap- 
 peares for the Prince in Cheshire. The Nobility meete in Yorkshire. 
 The Archbishop of Canterbury and some Bishops, and such Peeres as 
 were in London, address his Majesty to call a Parliament. The King 
 invites all Forraine Nations to come over. The French take all the 
 Palatinate, and alarm the Germans more than ever. 
 
 29. I went to the Royal Society. We adjourn'd the election of a 
 President to 23 April by reason of the public commotions, yet din'd , 
 together as of costome this day. 
 
 2 Dec. Dr. Tenison preached at St. Martines on 36 Psalm 5, 6, 7. 
 concerning Providence. I received the blessed Sacrament. After- 
 wards visited my lord Godolphin, then going with the Marquess of 
 Halifax and Earle of Nottingham as Commissioners to the Prince of 
 Orange ; he told me they had little power. Plymouth declar'd for 
 the Prince. Bath, York, Hull, Bristol, and all the eminent Nobility 
 and Persons of Quality through England, declare for the Protestant 
 Religion and Laws, and go to meete the Prince, who every day sets 
 forth new Declarations against the Papists. The great favourites at 
 Court, Priests and Jesuits, fly or abscond. Every thing, till now con- 
 ceal'd, flies abroad in public print, and is cried about the streetes. Ex- 
 pectation of the Prince coming to Oxford. The Prince of Wales and 
 greate treasure sent privily to Portsmouth, the Earle of Dover being 
 Governor. Addresse from the Fleete not gratefull to his Majesty. 
 The Papists in offices lay down their commissions, and fly. Uni- 
 versal consternation amongst them ; it looks like a Revolution. 
 
 7. My son went towards Oxford. I return'd home. 
 
 9. Lord Sunderland meditates flight. The rabble demolish'd all 
 Popish Chapels, and severall Papist Lords and Gentlemen's houses, 
 especialy that of the Spanish Ambassador, which they pillag'd, and 
 burnt his Library. 
 
 13. The King flies to sea, puts in at Faversham for ballast; is 
 rudely treated by the people ; comes back to White-hall. 
 
 The Pr. of Orange is advanc'd to Windsor, is invited by the King 
 to St. James's, the messenger sent was the Earle of Faversham, the 
 General of the Forces, who going without trumpet or passeport is 
 detain'd prisoner by the Prince, who accepts the invitation, but requires 
 his Majesty to retire to some distant place, that his owne guards may be 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 525 
 
 quarter'd about the Palace and Citty. This is taken heinously, and 
 the King goes privately to Rochester ; is persuaded to come back ; 
 comes on the Sunday ; goes to masse, and dines in publiq, a Jesuit 
 saying grace (I was present). 
 
 17. That night was a Council ; his Majesty refuses to assent to all 
 the proposals ; goes away again to Rochester. 
 
 18. I saw the King take barge to Gravesend at 12 o'clock — a sad 
 sight ! The Prince comes to St. James's, and fills Vl^hite-hall with 
 Dutch guards. A council of Peeres meete about an expedient to call 
 a Parliament ; adjourn to the House of Lords. The Chancellor, Earl 
 of Peterboro', and divers others taken. The Earle of Sunderland flies ; 
 Sir Edward Hales, Walker and others, taken and secur'd. 
 
 All the world go to see the Prince at St. James's, where there is a 
 greate Court. There I saw him, and severall of my acquaintance who 
 came over with him. He is very stately, serious and reserv'd. The 
 English soldiers sent out of towne to disband them ; not well pleas'd. 
 
 24. The King passes into France, whither the Queene and Child 
 were gon a few days before. 
 
 26. The Peeres and such Commoners as were Members of the Parlia- 
 ment at Oxford, being the last of Charles II. meeting, desire the Pr. 
 of Orange to take on him the disposal of the publiq revenue till a 
 Convention of Lords and Commons should meete in full body, ap- 
 pointed by his circular letters to the Shires and Burroughs, 22 Jan. — I 
 had now quarter'd upon me a Lieutenant Col. and 8 horses. 
 
 30. This day Prayers for the Prince of Wales were first left off in 
 our Church. 
 
 1689. 7 January. A long frost and deepe snow ; the Thames 
 almost frozen over. 
 
 15. I visited the Abp. of Canterbury, where I found the Bps. of St 
 Asaph (Lloyd), Ely (Turner), Bath and Wells (Ken), Peterborough 
 (White), and Chichester (Lake), the Earles of Ailesbury and Clarendon, 
 Sir Geo. Mackenzie Lord Advocate of Scotland, and then came in a 
 Scotch Abp. &c. After prayers and dinner, divers serious matters were 
 discours'd, concerning the present state of the public, and soriy I was 
 to find there was as yet no accord in the judgments of those of the 
 Lords and Commons who were to convene ; some would have the 
 Princesse made Queene without any more dispute, others were for a 
 Regency ; there was a Tory party (as then so call'd) who were for 
 inviting his Majesty againe upon conditions ; and there were Republic- 
 arians who would make the Pr. of Orange like a Statholder. The 
 Romanists were busy among these several parlies to bring them into 
 confusion ; most for ambition or other interest, few for conscience and 
 moderate resolutions. I found nothing of all this in this Assembly ol 
 Bishops, who were pleased to admit me into their discourses ; they 
 were all for a Regency, thereby to salve their oathes, and so all public 
 
526 SETTLEMENT OF WILLIAM AND MARY AS SOVEREIGNS. 
 
 matters to proceede in his Majesty's name, by that to facilitate the 
 calling of a Parliament, according to the Laws in being. Such was 
 the result of this meeting. 
 
 My Lord of Canterbury gave me great thanks for the advertisement 
 I sent him in October, and assured me they took my counsell in that 
 particular, and that it came very seasonably. 
 
 I found by the Lord Advocate that the Bishops of Scotland (who 
 were indeed little worthy of that character, and had done much mis- 
 chief in that Church) were now coming about to the true interest, in 
 this conjuncture which threatened to abolish the whole Hierarchy in 
 that kingdom ; and therefore the Scottish Archbishop and Lord Advo- 
 cate requested the Abp. of Canterbury to use his best endeavours with 
 the Prince to maintain the Church there in the same state as by Law 
 at present settled. 
 
 It now growing late, after some private discourse with his Grace I 
 took my leave, most of the Lords being gone. 
 
 The Trial of the Bishops was now printed. 
 
 The greate Convention being assembled the day before, falling upon 
 the question about the Government, resolved that K. James having by 
 the advice of the Jesuits and other wicked persons endeavour'd to sub- 
 vert the Laws of Church and State, and deserted the Kingdom, carry- 
 ing away the seals, &c. without any care for the management of the 
 Government, had by demise abdicated himself and wholly vacated his 
 right ; they did therefore desire the Lords concurrence to their vote, to 
 place the crown on the next heir, the Pr. of Orange, for his life, then to 
 the Princesse his wife, and if she died without issue, to the Princesse 
 of Denmark, and she failing, to the heirs of the Prince, excluding for 
 ever all possibility of admitting a Roman Catholic. 
 
 27 Jan. I din'd at the Admiralty, where was brought in a child not 
 12 yeares old, the son of one Dr. Clench, of the most prodigious matu- 
 rity of knowledge, for I cannot call it altogether memory, but some- 
 thing more extraordinary.! Mr. Pepys and myselfe examined him, not 
 in any method, but with promiscuous questions, which required judg- 
 ment and discernment to answer so readily and pertinently. There 
 was not any thing in Chronology, History, Geography, the several 
 Systems of Astronomy, Courses of the Stars, Longitude, Latitude, 
 Doctrine of the Spheres, Courses and Sources of Rivers, Creeks, Har- 
 bours, eminent Cities, Boundaries and Bearings of Countries, not only 
 in Europe but in any other part of the Earth, which he did not readily 
 resolve and demonstrate his knowledge of, readily drawing out with a 
 pen any thing he would describe. He was able not only to repeate the 
 most famous things which are left us in any of the Greek or Roman 
 
 1 See a similar account of the afterwards celebrated Rev. William Wotton under the yeaT 
 1679, July. Dr. Clench -was murdered in a hackney-coach, and one Harrison executed for it. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 527 
 
 Histories, Monarchies, Republics, Wars, Colonies, Exploits by Sea and 
 Land, but all the sacred Stories of the Old and New Testament ; the 
 Succession of all the Monarchies, Babylonian, Persian, Greek, Roman, 
 with all the lower Emperors, Popes, Heresiarchs, and Councils, what 
 they were called about, what they determined, or in the Controversy 
 about Easter, the Tenets of the Gnostics, Sabellians, Arians, Nesto- 
 rians ; the difference between St. Cyprian and Stephen about Rebapti- 
 zation ; the Schisms. We leap'd from that to other things totally dif- 
 ferent, to Olympic years, and Synochronismes ; we ask'd him questions 
 which could not be resolved without considerable meditation and judg- 
 ment, nay of some particulars of the Civil Laws, of the Digest and 
 Code. He gave a stupendous account of both Natural and Moral Phi- 
 losophy, and even in Metaphysics. Having thus exhausted ourselves, 
 rather than this wonderfuU child, or angel rather, for he was as beau- 
 tifull and lovely in countenance as in knowledge, we concluded with 
 asking him if in all he had read, or heard of, he had ever met with 
 any thing which was like this expedition of the Pr. of Orange, with so 
 small a force to obtain 3 greate Kingdoms without any contest. After 
 a little thought he told us that he knew of nothing which did more 
 resemble it than the coming of Constantine the Great out of Great 
 Britain, thro' France and Italy, so tedious a march, to meet Max- 
 entius, whom he overthrew at Pons Milvius with very little conflict, and 
 at the very gates of Rome, which he enter'd and was receiv'd with 
 triumph, and obtain'd the empire, not of 3 kingdoms only, but of all 
 the then known world. He was perfect in the Latine Authors, spake 
 French naturaly, and gave us a description of France, Italy, Savoy, 
 Spain, ancient and modernly divided ; as also of ancient Greece, 
 Scythia, and Northern Countries and Tracts : we left questioning fur- 
 ther. He did this without any set or formal repetitions, as one who 
 had learn'd things without book, but as if he minded other things, 
 going about the room, and toying with a parrot there, and as he was 
 at dinner {tanquam aliiid agens, as it were) seeming to be full of play, 
 of a lively, sprightly temper, allways smiling, and exceeding pleasant, 
 without the least levity, rudeness or childishness. His father assur'd 
 us he never impos'd any thing to charge his memory by causing him 
 to get things by heart, not even the rules of grammar ; but his tutor 
 (who was a Frenchman) read to him, first in French, then in Latine ; 
 that he usually play'd amongst other boys 4 or 5 hours every day, and 
 that he was as earnest at his play as at his study. He was perfect in 
 Arithmetic, and now newly enter'd into Greek. In sum {horresca 
 referens) I had read of divers forward and precoce youths, and some 
 I have known, but I never did either heare or read of any thing like to 
 this sweete child, if it be right to call him child who has more know- 
 ledge than most men in the worid. I counsell'd his father not to set 
 his heart too much on this jewell, Immodicis brevis est aias, ei 
 
$28 IRELAND IN AN ILL POSTURE, AS WELL AS SCOTLAND. 
 
 rara senectus, as I myself leam'd by sad experience in my most deare 
 child Richard,' many yeares since, who dying before he was 6 yeares 
 old, was both in shape and countenance and pregnancy of learning 
 uext to a prodigy. 
 
 29 Jan. The Votes of the House of Commons being carried up by 
 Mr. Hampden their chairman to the Lords, I got a station by the 
 Prince's lodgings at the doore of the lobby to the House, and heard 
 much of the debate, which lasted very long. Lord Derby was in the 
 chair (for the House was resolv'd into a grand Committee of the whole 
 House) ; after all had spoken, it came to the question, which was car- 
 ried but by 3 voices against a Regency, which 51 were for, 54 against ; 
 the minority alledging the danger of dethroning Kings, and scrupling 
 many passages and expressions in the Vote of the Commons, too long 
 to set down particularly. Some were for sending to his Majesty with 
 conditions ; others that the King could do no wrong, and that the mal- 
 administration was chargeable on his Ministers. There were not more 
 than 8 or 9 Bishops, and but two against the Regency ; the Abp. was 
 absent, and the Cleargy now began to change their note, both in pulpit 
 and discourse, on their old passive obedience, so as people began to 
 talke of the Bishops being cast out of the House. In short, things 
 tended to dissatisfaction on both sides ; add to this the morose temper 
 of the Pr. of Orange, who shew'd little countenance to the Noblemen 
 and others, who expected a more gracious and cherefuU reception when 
 they made their Court. The English Arrr.y also was not so in order, 
 and firme to his interest, nor so weaken'd but that it might give inter- 
 ruption. Ireland was in an ill posture as well as Scotland. Nothing 
 was yet done towards a settlement. God of his infinite mercy com- 
 pose these things, that we maybe at last a Nation and a Church under 
 some fixt and sober establishment ! 
 
 30. The anniversary of K. Cha. I. martyrdom; but in all the publiq 
 offices and pulpit prayers, the collects, and litany for the King and 
 Queene were curtail'd and mutilated. Dr. Sharp preach'd before the 
 Commons, but was disliked, and notthank'd for his sermon. 
 
 31. At our church (the next day being appointed a Thanksgiving for 
 deliverance by the Pr. of Orange, with prayers purposely compos'd), 
 our Lecturer preach'd in the afternoone a very honest sermon, shewing 
 our duty to God for the many signal deliverances of our Church, with- 
 out touching on politics. 
 
 6 February. The King's coronation day was ordered not to be ob- 
 serv'd, as hitherto it had been. 
 
 The Convention of the Lords and Commons now declare the 
 Princ^e and Princess of Orange King and Queene of England, France, 
 and Ireland (Scotland being an independent kingdom), the Pr. and 
 Princesse being to enjoy it jointly during their lives, but the executive 
 
 1 See under the yeir 1658, J?.nuary. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 529 
 
 authority to be vested in the Prince during life, the' all proceedings 
 to run in both names, and that it should descend to their issue, and 
 for want of such, to the Princesse Anne of Denmarlc and her issue, 
 and in want of such, to the heirs of the body of the Prince if he sur- 
 vive, and that failing, to devolve to the Parliament as they should 
 think fit. These produc'd a conference with the Lords, when also 
 there was presented heads of such new laws as were to be enacted. It 
 is thought that on these conditions they will be proclaim'd. 
 
 There was much contest about the King's abdication, and whether 
 he had vacated the government. The Earle of Nottingham and about 
 20 Lords and many Bps. enter'd their protests, but the concurrence 
 was greate against them. 
 
 The Princess hourly expected. Forces sending to Ireland, that 
 kingdom being in greate danger by the Farle of Tyrconnell's army, 
 and expectations from France coming to assist them, but that King 
 is busy in invading Flanders, and encountering the German Princes. 
 It is likely that this will be the most remarkable summer for action, 
 which has happen'd in many yeares. 
 
 21 February. Dr. Burnett preach'd at St. James's, on the obliga- 
 tion to walke worthy of God's particular and signal deliverance of 
 the Nation and Church. 
 
 I saw the new Queene and King proclaim'd the very next day after 
 her coming to Whitehall, Wed. 13 Feb., with greate acclamation 
 and generall good reception. Bonfires, bells, guns, &c. It was 
 believ'd that both, esgecialy the Princesse, would have shew'd some 
 (seeming) reluctance at least, of assuming her father's Crown, and 
 made some apology, testifying by her regret, that he should by his 
 mismanagement necessitate the Nation to so extraordinary a pro- 
 ceeding, which would have shew'd very handsomely to the world, and 
 according to the character given of her piety ; consonant also to her 
 husband's first declaration, that there was no intention of deposing 
 the King, but of succouring the Nation ; but nothing of all this 
 appear'd ; she came into Whitehall laughing and jolly, as to a wed- 
 ding, so as to seem quite transported. She rose early the next 
 morning, and in her undresse, as it was reported, before her women 
 were up, went about from roorae to roome to see the convenience of 
 Whitehall; lay in the same bed and apartment where the late 
 Queene lay, and within a night or two sate down to play at basset, 
 as the Queene her predecessor used to do. She smil'd upon and talk'd 
 to every body, so that no change seem'd to have taken place at Court 
 since her last going away, save that infinite crouds of people throng'd 
 to see her, and that she went to our prayers. This carriage was cen- 
 sur'd by many. She seems to be of a good nature, and that she takes 
 nothing to heart ; whilst the Prince her husband has a thoughtful 
 countenance, is wonderfull serious and silent, and seems to treate aU 
 
 34 
 
530 DISCONTENT OF THE NOBILITY. PROTESTS OF THE CLERGY. 
 
 persons alike gravely, and to be very intent on affaires ; Holland, Ire- 
 land, and France calling for his care. 
 
 Divers Bishops and Noblemen are not at all satisfied with this so 
 sudden an assumption of the Crown, without any previous sending, and 
 offering some conditions to the absent King : or, on his not returning, 
 or not assenting to those conditions, to have proclaim'd him Regent ; 
 but the major part of both Houses prevail'd to make them King and 
 Queene immediately, and a Crowne was tempting. This was oppos'd 
 and spoken against with such vehemence by Lord Clarendon (her own 
 uncle), that it put him by all preferment, which must doubtlesse have 
 ben as great as could have ben given him. My Lord of Rochester, his 
 brother, overshot himselfe by the same carriage and stiffnesse, which 
 their friends thought they might have well spar'd when they saw how 
 it was like to be over-rul'd, and that it had ben sufficient to have de- 
 clared their dissent with lesse passion, acquiescing in due time. 
 
 The Abp. of Canterbury and some of the rest, on scruple of con- 
 science and to salve the oathes they had taken, enter'd their Protests 
 and hung off, especialy the Abp. who had not all this while so much 
 as appear'd out of Lambeth. This occasion'd the wonder of many who 
 observ'd with what zeale they contributed to the Prince's expedition, 
 and all the while also rejecting any proposals of sending againe to the 
 absent King ; that they should now raise scruples, and such as created 
 much division among the people, greatly rejoicing the old Courtiers, 
 and especialy the Papists. 
 
 Another objection was, the invalidity of what was don by a Conven- 
 tion onely, and the, as yet, unabrogated laws ; this drew them to make 
 themselves on the 22nd [Feb.] a Parliament, the new King passing the 
 Act with the Crowne on his head. The lawyers disputed, but neces- 
 sity prevail'd, the government requiring a speedy settlement. 
 
 Innumerable were the crouds, who solicited for, and expected offices, 
 most of the old ones were turn'd out. Two or three white staves were 
 disposed of some days before, as, Lord Steward, to the Earl of Devon- 
 shire ; Treasurer of the Household, to Lord Newport ; Lord Chamber- 
 laine to the King, to my Lord of Dorset ; but there were as yet none 
 in offices of the Civil Government save the Marquiss of Halifax as 
 Privy Seal. A Council of 30 was chosen, Lord Derby President, but 
 neither Chancellor nor Judges were yet declar'd, the new Create Seale 
 not yet finish'd. 
 
 8 Mar. Dr. Tillotson, Dean of Canterbury, made an excellent dis- 
 course on 5 Matt. 44, exhorting to charity and forgiveness of enemies. 
 I suppose purposely, the new Parliament being furious about impeach- 
 ing those who were obnoxious, and as their custom has ever ben, going 
 on violently without reserve or moderation, whilst wise men were of 
 opinion the most notorious offenders being nam'd and excepted, an 
 Act of Amnesty would be more seasonable, to pacify the minds of men 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 53I 
 
 in SO general a discontent of the nation, especialy of those who did not 
 expect to see the government assum'd without any regard to the absent 
 King, or proving a spontaneous abdication, or that the birth 01 the 
 Prince of Wales was an imposture ; five of the Bishops also still refusing 
 to take the new oath. 
 
 In the mean time to gratify the people, the Hearth Tax was remitted 
 for ever, but what was intended to supply it, besides present great taxes 
 on land is not nam'd. 
 
 The King abroad was now furnish'd by the French King with money 
 and officers for an expedition to Ireland. The greate neglect in not 
 more timely preventing that from hence, and the disturbances in Scot- 
 land, give apprehensions of greate difficulties before any settlement can 
 be perfected here, whilst the Parliament dispose of the greate offices 
 amongst themselves. The Greate Seal, Treasury, and Admiralty put 
 into Commission of many unexpected persons, to gratify the more ; so 
 that by the present appearance of things (unless God Almighty gra- 
 ciously interpose and give success in Ireland and settle Scotland) more 
 trouble seems to threaten the nation than could be expected. In the 
 interim the new King refers all to the Parliament in the most popular 
 manner, but is very slow in providing against all these menaces, besides 
 finding difficulties in raiseing men to send abroad ; the lormer army 
 which had never seen any service hitherto, receiving their pay, and 
 passing their summer in an idle scene of a camp at Hounslow, unwill- 
 ing to engage, and many disaffected, and scarce to be trusted. 
 
 29. The new King much blam'd for neglecting Ireland, now like to 
 be ruin'd by the Lord Tyrconnell and his Popish party, too strong for 
 the Protestants. Wonderfull uncertainty where King James was, 
 whether in France or Ireland. The Scots seem as yet to favour K. 
 William, rejecting K. James's letter to them, yet declaring nothing posi- 
 tively. Soldiers in England discontented. Parliament preparing the 
 Coronation oath. Presbyterians and Dissenters displeas'd at the Vote 
 for preserving the Protestant Religion as established by law, without 
 mentioning what they were to have as to indulgence. 
 
 The Abp. of Canterbury and foure' other Bps. refusing to come to 
 Parliament, it was deliberated whether they should incur Premunire ; 
 but it was thought fit to let this fall, and be connived at, for feare 01 
 the people, to whom those Prelates were very deare, for the opposition 
 they had giv«n to Popery. 
 
 Court offices distributed amongst Parliament men. No consider- 
 able fleete as yet sent forth. Things far from settled as was expected, 
 by reason of the slothfuU, sickly temper of the new King, and the 
 
 1 Burnet names only three besides the Abp. viz. Thomas of Worcester, Lalce of Chichester. 
 Ken of Bath and Wells. He says that at the first landing of the Prince, Ken declared heartily 
 for him, and advised all to go to him, but went with great heat into the notion of a Regent. 
 After this he changed his mind, came to town with intent to take the oaths, but again changed, 
 •nd never did take them. Burnet's Own Times, vol. II. p. 6. 
 
532 COUu.\'ATION OF WILLIAM AND MARY. AT LAMBETH PALACE. 
 
 Parliament's unmindfullness of Ireland, which is likely to prove a sad 
 
 omission. 
 
 The Confederates beat the French out of the Palatinate, which they 
 had most barbarously ruined. 
 
 II April. I saw the Procession to and from the Abby Church of 
 Westminster, with the greate Feast in Westminster Hall, at the Coro- 
 nation of K. William and Queen Mary. What was different from 
 former Coronations was some alteration in the Coronation oath. Dr. 
 Burnet, now made Bishop of Sarum, preach'd with greate applause. 
 The Parliament men had scaffolds and places which took up one whole 
 side of the Hall. When the King and Queen had din'd, the ceremonie 
 of the Champion, and other services by tenure were perform'd. The 
 Parliament men were feasted in the Exchequer chamber, and had each 
 of them a gold [Coronation] medal given them, worth five and forty 
 shillings. On one side were the effigies of the King and Oueene 
 inclining one to the other ; on the reverse was Jupiter throwing a bolt 
 at Phaeton, the words 'Ne totus absumatur;' which was but dull, 
 seeing they might have had out of the poet something as apposite. 
 The sculpture was very meane. 
 
 Much of the splendor of the proceeding was abated by the absence 
 of divers who should have contributed to it, there being but five 
 Bishops, foure Judges (no more being yet sworn), and severall noble- 
 men and greate ladys wanting ; the feast, however, was magnificent. 
 The next day the House of Commons went and kiss'd their new 
 Majesties' hands in the Banquetting House. 
 
 12. I went with the Bp. of St. Asaph to visit my Lord of Canterbury 
 at Lambeth, who had excus'd himselfe from officiating at the Corona- 
 tion, which was perform'd by the Bp. of London, assisted by the Abp. 
 of York. We had much private and free discourse with his Grace 
 concerning severall things relating to the Church, there being now a 
 Bill of Comprehension to be brought from the Lords to the Commons. 
 I urg'd that when they went about to reform some particulars in the 
 Liturgy, Church discipline, Canons, &c. the baptizing in private houses 
 without necessity might be reform'd, as likewise so frequent burials in 
 Churches ; the one proceeding much from the pride of women, bring- 
 ing that into custom which was only indulg'd in case of imminent dan- 
 ger, and out of necessity during the Rebellion, and persecution of the 
 Clergy in our late civil wars ; the other from the avarice of ministers, 
 who, in some opulent parishes, made almost as much of permission to 
 bury in the chancel and the church, as of their livings, and were paid 
 with considerable advantage and gifts for baptizing in chambers. To 
 this they heartily assented, and promis'd their endeavour to get it re- 
 form'd, utterly disliking both practices as novel and indecent. 
 
 We discours'd likewise of the greate disturbance and prejudice it 
 might cause, should the new oath, now on the anvil, be impos'd on any, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 533 
 
 save such as were in new office, without any retrospect to such as either 
 had no office, or had ben long in office, who it was likely would have 
 some scruples about taking a new oath, having already sworn fidelity 
 to the government as establish'd by law. This we all knew to be the 
 case of my Lord Abp. of Canterbury, and some other persons who were 
 not so fully satisfied with the Convention making it an abdication of K. 
 James, to whom they had sworn allegiance. 
 
 King James was now certainly in Ireland with the Marshall d'Es- 
 trades whom he made a Privy Counsellor ; and who caus'd the King to 
 remove the Protestant Counsellors, some whereof, it seems, had conti- 
 nued to sit, telling him that the King of France his master would never 
 assist him if he did not immediately do it, by which it is apparent how 
 the poor Prince is manag'd by the French. 
 
 Scotland declares for K. William and Qu. Mary, with the reasons of 
 their setting aside K. James, not as abdicating, but forfeiting his right 
 by mal-administration ; they proceeded with much more caution and 
 prudence than we did, who precipitated all things to the greate reproch 
 of the Nation, all which had ben manag'd by some crafty ill-principled 
 men. The new Privy Council have a Republican spirit, manifestly 
 undermining all future succession of the Crown and prosperity of the 
 Church of England, which yet I hope they v/ill not be able to accom- 
 plish so soone as they expect, tho' they get into all the places of trust 
 and of profit. 
 
 21 April. This was one of t,' e most seasonable Springs, free from 
 the usual sharp East winds, that I have observ'd since the year 1660 
 {the year of the Restoration) which was much such an one. 
 
 26. I heard the lawyers plead before the Lords the writ of error in 
 the judgment of Gates, as to the charge against him of perjurie, which 
 after debate they referr'd to the answer of Holloway, &c. who were his 
 Judges. I then went with the Bp. of St. Asaph to the Abp. at Lam- 
 beth, where they enter'd into discourse concerning the final destruction 
 of Antichrist, both concluding that the third trumpet and vial were now 
 pouring out. My Lord St. Asaph consider'd the killing of the two 
 witnesses, to be the utter destruction of the Cevennes Protestants by 
 the French and Duke of Savoy, and the other the Waldenses and Py- 
 renean Christians, who by all appearance from good history had kept 
 the primitive faith from the very Apostles' time till now. The doubt 
 his Grace suggested was, whether it could be made evident that the 
 present persecution had made so great an havoc of those faithfull peo- 
 ple as of the other, and whether there were not yet some among them 
 in being, who met together, it being stated from the text 1 1 Apoc. that 
 they should both be slain together. They both much approv'd of Mr. 
 Mede's way of interpretation, and that he only fail'd in resolving too 
 hastily on the K. of Sweden's (Gustavus Adolphus) success in Ger- 
 many. They agreed that it would be good to employ some intelligent 
 
534 KING JAMES IN IRELAND. THE SIEGE OF LONDONDERRY. 
 
 French minister to travel as far as the Pyrenees to understand the 
 present state of the Church there, it being a country where hardly any 
 one travels. 
 
 26 April. There now came certain news that K. James had not only 
 landed in Ireland, but that he had surpriz'd Londonderry, and was 
 become master of that kingdom, to the greate shame of our Govern- 
 ment, who had ben so often solicited to provide against it by timely 
 succour, and which they might so easily have don. This is a terrible 
 beginning of more troubles, especialy should an army come thence 
 into Scotland, people being generally disaffected here and every 
 where else, so that the sea and land men would scarce serve without 
 compulsion. 
 
 A new oath was now fabricating for all the Cleargy to take, of obe- 
 dience to the present Government, in abrogation of the former oaths 
 of allegiance, which it is foreseene many of the Bishops and others of 
 the Cleargy will not take. The penalty is to be the losse of their dig- 
 nitie and spiritual preferment. This is thought to have ben driven on 
 by the Presbyterians, our new governors. God in mercy send us help, 
 and direct the counsels to his glory and good of his Church ! 
 
 Public matters went very ill in Ireland ; confusion and dissention 
 amongst ourselves, stupidity, inconstancy, emulation, the governors 
 employing unskilfuU men in greatest offices, no person ot public 
 spirit and ability appearing, threaten us with a very sad prospect of 
 what may be the conclusion, without God's infinite mercy. 
 
 A fight by Admiral Herbert with the French, he imprudently setting 
 on them in a creek as they were landing men in Ireland, by which we 
 came off with greate slaughter and little honour. So strangely negli- 
 gent and remisse were we in preparing a timely and sufficient fleete. 
 The Scots Commissioners offer the Crowne to the new King and 
 Queene on conditions. — Act of Poll-money came forth, sparing none. — 
 Now came forth the act of Indulgence for the Dissenters, but not 
 exempting them paying dues to the Church of England Cleargy, or 
 serving in office according to law, with severall other clauses. — A most 
 splendid Ambassy from Holland to congratulate the K. and Queene on 
 their accession to the Crowne. 
 
 4 June. A solemn Fast for success of the Fleete, &c. 
 
 6. I din'd with the Bishop of Asaph ; Monseur Capellus, the 
 learned son of the most learned Ludovicus, presented to him his 
 Father's works not publish'd till now. 
 
 7. I visited the Abp. of Canterbury, and stay'd with him till about 
 seven o'clock. He read to me the Pope's excommunication of the 
 French King. 
 
 9. Visited Dr. Burnet, now Bishop of Sarum ; got hira to let Mr. 
 Kneller draw his picture. 
 
 16. King James's Declaration was now dispers'd, offering pardon to 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 535 
 
 all, if on his landing, or within 20 days after, they should return to 
 their obedience. 
 
 Our fleete not yet at sea, thro' some prodigious sloth, and men mind- 
 ing onely their present interest ; the French riding masters at sea, 
 takmg many greate prizes to our wonderfull reproch. No certaine 
 newes from Ireland; various reports of Scotland ; discontents at home. 
 The Kmg of Denmark at last joins with the confederates, and the two 
 Northern Powers are reconcil'd. The East India Company likely to 
 be dissolv'd by Parliament for many arbitrary actions. Gates acquited 
 of perjurie, to all honest men's admiration. 
 
 20. Newes of a Plot discover'd, on which divers were sent to the 
 Tower and secured. 
 
 23. An extraordinary drowth, to the threatening of greate wants as 
 to the fruits of the earth. 
 
 8. I sat for my picture to Mr. Kneller, for Mr. Pepys, late Secretaiy 
 to the Admiralty, holding my ' Sylva' in my right hand '. It was on 
 his long and earnest request, and is plac'd in his library. Kneller 
 never painted in a more masterly manner. 
 
 II. I din'd at Lord Clarendon's, it being his lady's wedding-day, 
 when about 3 in the afternoone, there was an unusual and violent storm 
 of thunder, rain, and wind ; many boats on the Thames were over- 
 whelm'd, and such was the impetuosity of the wind as to carry up the 
 waves in billows and spouts most dreadfull to behold, rooting up trees 
 and ruining some houses. The Countess of Sunderland afterwards 
 told me that it extended as far as Althorp at the very time, which is 
 70 miles from London. It did no harm at Deptford, but at Greenwich 
 it did much mischeife. 
 
 16 July. I went to Hampton Court about buisinesse, the Council 
 being there. A greate apartment and spacious garden with fountaines 
 was beginning in the parke at the head of the canal. 
 
 19. The Marshall de Schomberg went now as General towards 
 Ireland, to the reliefe of Londonderry. Our fleete He before Brest. 
 The Confederates passing the Rhine, besiege Bonn and Mayence, to 
 obtain a passage into France. A greate victory got by the Muscovites, 
 taking and burning Precop. A new rebel against the Turks threatens 
 the destruction of that tyranny. AH Europe in armes against France, 
 and hardly to be found in history so universal a face of war. 
 
 The Convention (or Parliament as some call'd it) sitting, exempt the 
 Duke of Hanover from the succession to the Crowne, which theyseeme 
 to confine to the present new King, his wife, and Princesse Ann of 
 Denmark, who is so monstrously swollen that its doubted whether her 
 being thought with child may prove a tympany onely, so that the un- 
 happy family of the Stuarts seems to be extinguishing, and then what 
 
 ^ Now at Wotton. A copy of it was given by the late Sir Frederick Evelja to tJbe Earl of 
 Harcourt a few years ago. 
 
536 THE SCOTS VOTE DOWN EPISCOPACY. I LIVE IN SOHO SQUARE. 
 
 government is likely to be next set up is unknown, wliether regal and 
 by election, or otherwise, the Republicans and Dissenters from the 
 Church of England evidently looking that vi'ay. 
 
 The Scots have now againe voted down Episcopacy there. — Create 
 discontents thro' this nation at the slow proceedings of the King, and 
 the incompetent instruments and officers he advances to the greatest 
 and most necessary charges. 
 
 23 August. Came to visite me Mr. Firmin '. 
 
 25. Hitherto it has ben a most seasonable summer. — Londonderry 
 reliev'd after a brave and wonderful! holding out. 
 
 21 September. I went to visit the Abp. of Canterbury since his 
 suspension, and was receiv'd with greate kindness. — A dreadful fire 
 happen'd in Southwark. 
 
 2 Oct. Came to visite us the Marquiss de Ruvign^, and one Monsieur 
 le Coque, a French refugee, who left greate riches for his religion; a 
 very learned, civil person ; he married the sister of the Dutchess de la 
 Force. — Ottobone, a Venetian Cardinal, 80 yeares old, made Pope '. 
 
 31. My birth-day, being now 6g years old. Blessed Father, who 
 hast prolonged my years to this great age, and given me to see so great 
 and wonderfull revolutions, and preserv'd me amidst them to this 
 moment, accept I beseech thee the continuance of my prayers and 
 thankfuU acknowledgments, and grant me grace to be working out 
 my salvation, and redeeming the time, that thou mayest be glorified by 
 me here, and my immortal soul sav'd whenever thou shalt call for it, to 
 perpetuate thy praises to all eternity, in that heavenly kingdom where 
 there are no more changes or vicissitudes, but rest and peace, and joy 
 and consummate felicity for ever. Grant this, O heavenly Father, for 
 the sake of Jesus thine only Son and our Saviour. Amen. 
 
 5 Nov. The Bishop of St. Asaph, Lord Almoner, preach'd before 
 the King and Queene, the whole discourse being an historical narrative 
 of the Church of England's severall deliverances, especialy that oi this 
 anniversary, signaliz'd by being also the birth-day of the Pr. of Orange, 
 his marriage (which was on the 4th) and his landing at Torbay this day. 
 There was a splendid ball and other rejoicings. 
 
 10. After a very wet season, the Winter came on severely. 
 
 17. Much wet, without frost, yet the wind North and Easterly. — A 
 Convocation of the Cleargy meet about a Reformation of our 
 Liturgy, Canons, &c. obstructed by others of the Cleargy. 
 
 27. I went to London with my family to winter at Soho in the 
 great square. 
 
 I He was a man of the most amiable character and most unbounded charity. He was a 
 great friend of Sir Robert Clayton, who after his death erected a monument for him in a watt 
 which he had formed at Sir Robert's seat at Marden in Surrey. He was very fond of gar- 
 dens, and so far of congenial spirit with Mr. Evelyn. He was an Unitarian, but lived in inti- 
 mac)' with many of the most eminent clergy. His life was printed in a smiU volume. 
 
 ^Fcter OtthoboDus succeeded Innocent XI. as Pope in 16S9, by the title of Alexander VIIL 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 537 
 
 1690. II Jan. This night there was a most extraordinary stoime 
 of wind, accompanied with snow and sharp weather ; it did greate 
 harme in many places, blowing down houses, trees, &c. killing many 
 people. It began about 2 in the morning, and lasted till 5, being a 
 kind of hurricane, which mariners observe have begun of late yeares to 
 come Northward. This Winter has ben hitherto extremely wet, warm, 
 and windy. 
 
 12. There was read at St. Ann's Church an exhortatory letter to the 
 Cleargy of London from the Bishop, together with a Brief for reliev- 
 ing the distress'd Protestants, the Vaudois, who fled from the persecu- 
 tion of the French and Duke of Savoy, to the Protestant Cantons of 
 Swisserland. 
 
 The Parliament was unexpectedly prorogued to 2d April, to the dis- 
 content and surprise of many members, who being exceeding averse to 
 the settling of any thing, proceeding with animosities, multiplying ex- 
 ceptions against those whom they pronounc'd obnoxious, and pro- 
 ducing as universal a discontent against K. William and themselves, 
 as there was before against King James. — The new King resolv'd on 
 an expedition into Ireland in person. — About 150 of the members who 
 were more of the Royal party, meeting at a feast at the Apollo Tavern 
 near St. Dunstan's, sent some of their company to the King, to assure 
 him of their service ; he return'd his thanks, advising them to repain; 
 to their severall counties and preserve the peace during his absence, and 
 assuring them that he would be steady to his resolution of defending 
 the Laws and Religion establish'd. — The great Lords suspected toha^'e 
 counsell'd this prorogation, universally denied it. However, it was 
 believ'd the cheife adviser was the Marquiss of Carmarthen,^ who now 
 seem'd to be most in favor. 
 
 2 Feb. The Parliament was dissolv'd by proclamation, and another 
 call'd to meet the 20 of March. This was a second surprize to the 
 former Members ; and now the Court Party, or, as they call themselves. 
 Church of England, are making their interests in the country. The 
 Marquiss of Halifax lays down his office of Privy Seal, and pretends 
 to retire. 
 
 16. The Dutchess of Monmouth's Chaplain preach'd at St. Martin's 
 an excellent discourse, exhorting to peace and sanctity, it being now 
 the time of very great division and dissention in the nation ; first, 
 amongst the Churchmen, amongst whom the moderate and sober part 
 were for a speedy reformation of divers things, which it was thought 
 might be made in our Liturgy, for the inviting of Dissenters ; others, 
 ' more stiff" and rigid, were for no condescension at all. Books and pam- 
 phlets were publish'd every day pro and con; the Convocation were 
 forc"d for the present to suspend any further progress.— There was 
 
 ' Osborne, Lord Danly, afterwards Duke of Leeds. 
 
538 KING WILLIAM GOES TO IRELAND. KENSINGTON. PEPYS. 
 
 fierce and greate carousing about being elected in the new Parliament 
 — The King persists in his intention of going in person for Ireland, 
 whither the French are sending supplies to K. James, and we the Dan- 
 ish horse to Schomberg. 
 
 19. I din'd with the Marquiss of Carmarthen (late Lord Danby), 
 where was Lieutenant General Douglas, a very considerate and sober 
 commander, going for Ireland. He related to us the exceeding neglect 
 of the English souldiers, suffering severely for want of cloaths and ne- 
 cessaries this Winter, exceedingly magnifying their courage and bravery 
 during all their hardships. There din'd also Lord Lucas, Lieutenant of 
 the Tower, and the Bp. of St. Asaph. — The privy seale was againe put 
 into commission, Mr. Cheny (who married my kinswoman Mrs. Pier- 
 point), Sir Thomas KnatchbuU, and Sir P. W. Poultney. — The impu- 
 dence of both sexes was now become so greate and so universal, per- 
 sons of all ranks keeping their courtesans publicly, that the King had 
 lately directed a letter to the Bishops to order their Cleargy to preach 
 against that sin, swearing, &c. and to put the Ecclesiastical Laws in 
 execution without any indulgence. 
 
 25 Feb. I went to Kensington, which King William had bought of 
 Lord Nottingham, and alter'd, but was yet a patch'd building, but with 
 the garden, however, it is a very sweete villa, having to it the Park and 
 a straight new way through this Park. 
 
 7 March. I din'd with Mr. Pepys, late Secretary to the Admiralty, 
 where was that excellent Shipwright and Seaman (for so he had ben 
 and also a Commissioner of the Navy) Sir Anthony Deane. Amongst 
 other discourse, and deploring the sad condition of our Navy, as now 
 govem'd by unexperienc'd men since this Revolution, he mention'd 
 what exceeding advantage we of this nation had by being the first who 
 built Fregats, the first of which ever built was that vessell which was 
 afterwards caU'd The Constant Warwick, and was the work of Pet of 
 Chatham, for a trial of making a vessell that would sail swiftly ; it was 
 built with low decks, the guns lying neere the water, and was so light 
 and swift of sailing, that in a short time he told us she had, ere the 
 Dutch war was ended, taken as much money from privateers as would 
 have laden her ; and that more such being built did in a yeare or two 
 scour the Channel from those of Dunkirk and others which had ex- 
 ceedingly infested it. He added that it would be the best and onely 
 infallible expedient to be masters of the sea, and able to destroy the 
 greatest navy of any enemy, if instead of building huge greate ships 
 and second and third rates, they would leave off building such high 
 decks, which were for nothing but to gratify Gentlemen Commanders, 
 who must have all their effeminate accommodations, and for pomp ; that 
 it would be the ruin of our fleets if such persons were continued in com- 
 mand, they neither having experience nor being capable of learning, 
 because they would not submit to the fatigue and inconvenience which 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 539 
 
 those who were bred seamen would undergo, in those so otherwise use- 
 fiill swift fregats. These being to encounter the greatest ships would 
 be able to protect, set on, and bring off, those who should manage the 
 fire-ships ; and the Prince who should first store himselfe with num- 
 bers of such fire-ships would, thro' the help and countenance of such 
 fregats, be able to ruin the greatest force of such vast ships that could 
 be sent to sea, by the dexterity of working those light, swift ships to 
 guard the fire-ships. He concluded there would shortly be no other 
 method of sea-fight, and that great ships and men of war, however 
 stor'd with guns and men, must submit to those who should encounter 
 them with far less number. He represented to us the dreadful! effect 
 of these fire-ships ; that he continually observ'd in our late maritime 
 war with the Dutch, that when an enemy's fire-ship approach'd, the 
 most valiant commander and common sailors were in such consterna- 
 tion that tho' then, of all times, there was most need of the guns 
 boomes, &c. to keep the mischeif off, they grew pale and astonish'd, as 
 if of a quite other mean soul, that they slunk about, forsook their guns 
 and work as if in despair, every one looking about to see which way 
 they might get out of their ship, tho' sure to be drown'd if they did so. 
 This he said was likely to prove hereafter the method of sea-fight, 
 likely to be the misfortune of England if they continued to put Gentle- 
 men Commanders over cxperienc'd Seamen, on account of their igno- 
 rance, effeminacy and insolence. 
 
 9 March. I din'd at the Bp. of St. Asaph's, Almoner to the new 
 Queene, with the famous Lawyer Sir George Mackenzie (late Lord 
 Advocate of Scotland), against whom both the Bishop and myselfe had 
 written and publish'd books, both now most friendly reconcil'd '- He 
 related to us many particulars of Scotland, the present sad condition of 
 it, the inveterate hatred which the Presbyterians shew to the Family of 
 the Stewarts, and the exceeding tyranny of those bigots who acknow- 
 ledge no superior on earth, in civil or divine matters, maintaining that 
 the people onely have the right of government ; their implacable hatred 
 to the Episcopal Order and Church of England. He observ'd that the 
 first Presbyter dissents from our discipline were introduc'd by the 
 Jesuites order, about the 20. of Queene Eliz., a famous Jesuite amongst 
 them faining himselfe a Protestant, and who was the first who began to 
 pray extempory, and brought in that which they since call'd, and are 
 still so fond of, praying by the Spirit. This Jesuite remained many 
 yeares before he was discover'd, afterwards died in Scotland, where he 
 was buried at having yet on his monument, ' Rosa inter spinas. 
 
 II March, I went againe to see Mr. Charleton's curiosities both of 
 art and nature, and his full and rare collection of medails, which taken 
 
 1 Sir George had written in praise of a Private Life, which Mr. Evelyn answered by a book 
 U praise of Public Life and Active Employment ; see the Introduction to vol. I. As to tho 
 Bishop's Book, see Biog, Brit, articles Lloyd and Mackenzie. 
 
54° THE CITY CHARTER RESTORED. THE VAUDOIS PROTESTANTS. 
 
 altogether, in all kinds, is doubtless one of the most perfect assemblage 
 of rarities that can be any where seene. J much admir'd the contor- 
 sions of the Thea roote, which was so perplex'd, large, and intricate, 
 and withall hard as box, that it was wonderfuU to consider. — The 
 French have landed in Ireland. 
 
 1 6. A public Fast. 
 
 24 May. Citty Charter restor'd. Divers exempted from pardon. 
 
 4 June. King Wilham set forth on his Irish expedition, leaving the 
 Queene Regent. 
 
 10. Mr. Pepys read to me his remonstrance, shewing with what 
 malice and injustice he was suspected with Sir Anth. Deane about the 
 timber of which the 30 ships were built' by a late Act of Parliament, 
 with the exceeding danger which the fleete would shortly be in, by rea- 
 son of the tyranny and incompetency of those who now manag'd the 
 Admiralty and affaires of the Navy, of which he gave an accurate state, 
 and shew'd his greate ability. 
 
 18. Fast-day. Visited the Bp. of St. Asaph ; he and his comp. 
 conversation was on the Vaudois in Savoy, who had ben thought so 
 neere destruction and final extirpation by the French, being totally 
 given up to slaughter, so that there were no hopes for them ; but now it 
 pleas'd God that the Duke of Savoy, who had hitherto join'd with the 
 French in their persecution, was now press'd by the French to deliver 
 up (Saluce) and Turin as cautionary towns, on suspicion that he might 
 at last come into the Confederacy of the German Princes, did seacretly 
 concert measures with, and afterwards declar'd for them. He then 
 invited these poore people from their dispersion amongst the moun- 
 tains whither they had fled, and restor'd them to their country, their 
 dwellings, and the exercise of their religion, and begg'd pardon for the 
 ill usage they had receiv'd, charging it on the cruelty of the French 
 who forc'd him to it. These being the remainder of those persecuted 
 Christians which the Bishop of St. Asaph had so long affirni'd to be the 
 2 witnesses spoken of in the Revelation, who should be kiU'd and 
 brought to life againe, it was look'd on as an extraordinary thing that 
 this prophesying Bishop should persuade two fugitive Ministers of the 
 Vaudois to returne to their country, and furnish them, with £iQ 
 towards their journey, at that very time when nothing but universal 
 destruction was to be expected, assuring them and shewing them from 
 the Apocalypse that their coantrymen should be return'd safely to their 
 country before they arriv'd. This happening contrary to all expecta- 
 tion and appearance, did exceedingly credit the Bishop's confidence how 
 that prophecy of the witnesses should so come to pass, just at the time, 
 and the very month he had spoken of some yeares before. I after- 
 wards went with him to Mr. Boyle and Lady Ranelagh his sister, to 
 whom he explain'd the necessity of it so fully and learnedly made out, 
 with what events were immediately to follow, viz. the French King's 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 54' 
 
 ruine, the calling of the Jews to be neare at hand, but that the king- 
 dom of Antichrist would not yet be utterly destroyed, till 30 years, when 
 Christ should begin the Millenium, not as personally and visibly reign- 
 ing on earth, but that the true religion and universal peace should 
 obtain thro' all the world. He shew'd how Mr. Brightman, Mr. Mede 
 and other interpreters of these events fail'd, by mistaking and reckon- 
 ing the yeare as the Latines and others did, to consist of the present 
 calculation, so many days to the yeare, whereas the Apocalypse reckons 
 after the Persian account, as Daniel did, whose visions St. John all 
 along explains as meaning only the Christian Church. 
 
 24 June. Din'd with Mr. Pepys, who the next day was sent to the 
 Gate-house,' and severall great persons to the Tower, on suspicion of 
 being affected to King James ; amongst them was the Earl of Claren- 
 don, the Oueene's uncle. — King William having vanquish'd K. James 
 in Ireland, there was much public rejoicing. It seemes the Irish in 
 K. James's army would not stand, but the English-Irish and French 
 made greate resistance. Schomberg was slain, and Dr. Walker who 
 so bravely defended Londonderry. King William receiv'd a slight 
 wound by the grazing of a cannon-bullet on his shoulder, which he 
 indur'd with very little interruption of his pursuit. Hamilton, who 
 broke his word about Tyrconnell, was taken. It is reported that K. 
 James is gon back to France. Droghedaand Dublin surrendered, and 
 if K. William be returning, we may say of him as Csesar said, ' Veni, 
 vidi, vici.' But to alloy much of this, the French fleete rides in our 
 Channell, ours not daring to interpose, and the enemy threatening to 
 land. 
 
 27. I went to visite some friends in the Tower, vphen asking for 
 Lord Clarendon, they by mistake directed me to the Earl of Torring- 
 ton, who about three days before had ben sent for from the fleete, and 
 put into the Tower for cowardice and not fighting the French fleete, 
 which having beaten a squadron of the Hollanders, whilst Torrington 
 did nothing, did now ride masters of the sea, threatening a descent. 
 
 20 July. This afternoone a Camp of about 4000 men was begun to 
 be form'd on Blackheath. 
 
 30. I din'd with Mr. Pepys, now suffer'd to return to his house, on 
 account of indisposition. 
 
 I August. The young Duke of Grafton came to visite me, gomg 
 to his ship at the mouth of the river, in his way to Ireland (where 
 he was slain). 
 
 3. The French landed some souldiers at Teinemouth in Devon, and 
 burnt some poore houses.— The French fleete still hovering about the 
 Western coast, and we having 300 sail of rich merchant ships in the 
 bay of Plymouth, our fleete begin to move towards them, under three 
 
 1 By Grey's Paliamentary Debates it appears that he was accused of having sent informa- 
 doo to the French Court of the state of the English Navy. 
 
542 DEFEAT OF JAMES. CORK AND KINSALE SURRENDERED. 
 
 Admirals. The country in the West all on their guard. — A very ex- 
 traordinary fine season, but on the 12th was a very greate storm of 
 thunder and lightning, and on the 15th the season much changdtowet 
 and cold. — The militia and train'd bands, horse and foote, which were 
 up thro' England, were dismiss'd. The French King having newes 
 that K. William was slaine, and his army defeated in Ireland, caus'd 
 such a triumph at Paris, and all over France, as was never heard of, 
 when in the midst of it, the unhappy King James being vanquish'd, 
 by a speedy flight and escape, himselfe brought the newes of his own 
 defeate, and the ruin of his cause. 
 
 15. I was desir'd to be one of the bail of the Earl of Clarendon, 
 for his release from the Tower, with divers noblemen.— The Bp. of St. 
 Asaph expounds his prophesies to me and Mr. Pepys, &c. The troops 
 from Blackheath march to Portsmouth. — That sweete and hopeful! 
 youth. Sir Cha. Tuke, died of the wounds he receiv'd in the fight of the 
 Boyne, to the greate sorrow of all his friends, being (I think) the last 
 male of that family, to which my wife is related. A more virtuous 
 young gentleman I never knew ; he was learned for his age, having had 
 the advantage of the choicest breeding abroad, both as to arts and 
 arms ; he had much travell'd, but was so unhappy as to fall in the side 
 of the unfortunate King. 
 
 The unseasonable and most tempestuous weather happening, the 
 naval expedition is hinder'd, and the extremity of wet causes the siege 
 of Limerick to be rais'd. K. William returned to England. — Lord 
 Sydney was left Governor of what is conquer'd in Ireland, which is 
 neere 3 parts [in 4.] 
 
 17. A public Fast. — An extraordinary sharp, cold, East wind. 
 
 12 Oct. The French General, with Tyrconnell and their forces gon 
 back to France, beaten out by K. William. — Cork deliver'd on discre- 
 tion. The Duke of Grafton was there mortally wounded and dies. — 
 Very greate storms of wind. The 8th of this month Lord Spencer 
 wrote me word from Althorp, that there happen'd an Earthquake the 
 day before in the morning, which tho' short, sensibly shook the house. 
 The Gazette acquainted us that the like happen'd at the same time, 
 half past 7, at Barnstaple, Holyhead, and Dublin. We were not sen- 
 sible of it here. 
 
 26. Kinsale at last surrender'd, mean time K. James's party burn 
 all the houses they have in their power, and amongst them that stately 
 palace of Lord Ossory's which lately cost, as reported, ^40,000. By a 
 disastrous accident a third rate ship, the Breda, blew up and destroy'd 
 all on board ; in it were 25 prisoners of war. She was to have sail'd 
 for England the next day. 
 
 3 Nov. Went to the Countess of Clancarty to condole with her con- 
 cerning her debauch'd and dissolute son, who had done so much mis- 
 chiefe in Ireland, now taken and brought prisoner to the Tower. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 543 
 
 i6. Exceeding greate storms, yet a warm season. 
 23. Carried Mr. Pepys's memorials to Lord Godolphin, now resum- 
 ing the commission of the Treasury to the wonder of all his friends. 
 
 1 Dec. Having ben chosen President of the Royal Society I desired 
 to decline it, and with greate difficulty devolv'd the election on Sir 
 Robert Southwell, Secretary of State to King William in Ireland. 
 
 20. Dr. Hough, President of Magdalen Coll. Oxford, who was dis- 
 plac'd with severall of the Fellows for not taking the oath impos'd by 
 K. James, now made a Bishop. — Most of this month cold and frost. — 
 One Johnson, a knight, was executed at Tyburn for being an accomplice 
 with Campbell, brother to Lord Argyle, in stealing a young heiress. 
 
 1691. 4 Jan. This weeke a Plot was discover'd for a generall rising 
 
 against the new Government for which Lord Clarendon and others 
 
 were sent to the Tower. The next day I went to see Lord Clarendon. 
 
 ' The Bishop of Ely' search'd for.— Trial of Lord Preston, as not being 
 
 an English Peer, hasten'd at the Old Bailey. 
 
 18 Jan. Lord Preston condemn'd about a design to bring in K. 
 James by the French. Ashton executed. The Bp. of Ely, Mr. 
 Graham, &c. absconded. 
 
 13 Mar. 1 went to visite Monsieur JusteU and the Library at 
 St. James's, in which that learned man had put the MSS. (which were 
 in good number) into excellent order, they having laid neglected for 
 many yeares. Divers medails had ben stolen and embezzled. 
 
 21. Din'd at Sir William Fermor's, who shew'd me many good pic- 
 tures. After dinner a French servant play'd rarely on the lute. Sir 
 William had now bought all the remaining statues collected with so 
 much expence by the famous Tho. Earle of Arundel, and sent them to 
 his seat at Easton neere Towcester.' 
 
 25. Lord Sidney, principal Secretary of State, gave me a letter to 
 Lord Lucas, Lieutenant of the Tower, to permit me to visit Lord Cla- 
 rendon, which this day I did and din'd with him. 
 
 10 April. This night a sudden and terrible fire burnt down all the 
 buildings over the stone gallery at Whitehall to the water-side, begin- 
 ning at the apartment of the late Dutchesse of Portsmouth (which 
 had ben puH'd down and rebuilt no lesse than 3 times to please her), 
 and consuming other lodgings of such lewd creatures, who debauch'd 
 both K. Cha. 2, and others, and were his destruction.— The King 
 return'd out of Holland just as this accident happen'd.— Proclamation 
 against Papists, &c. 
 
 16. I went to see Dr. Sloane's curiosities, being an universal col- 
 lection of the natural productions of Jamaica, consisting of plants, 
 
 ' Dr. Turner, who though one of the 6 Bishops sent to the Tower for the petition to the 
 King, declined taking the oaths to King William and Queen Mary. 
 
 2 They are now at Oxford, having been presented to the University in 1755 by Henrietta 
 Countess-dowager of Pomfret, widow of Thomas the first Earl. 
 
S44 THE SLOANE COLLECTION. FUNERAL OF MY NEPHEW. 
 
 fruits, corals, minerals, stones, earth, shells, animals, insects, &c. col- 
 lected with greate judgment ; severall folios of dried plants, and one 
 which had about 80 severall sorts of ferns, and another of grasses ; 
 the Jamaica pepper, in branch, leaves, flower, fruit, &c. This collec- 
 tion,' with his Journal and other philosophical and natural discourses 
 and observations, is indeede very copious and extraordinary, sufficient 
 to furnish a history of that island, to which I encourag'd him. 
 
 19. The Abp. of Canterbury, and Bps. of Ely, Bath and Wells, 
 Peterboro', Gloucester, and the rest who would not take the oaths to 
 K. William, were now displaced, and in their rooms. Dr. Tillotson, 
 Dean of St. Paul's, was made Abp. ; Patrick remov'd from Chichester 
 to Ely, Cumberland ' to Gloucester. 
 
 22 April. I din'd with Lord Clarendon in the Tower. 
 
 24. I visited the Earl and Countess of Sunderland, now come to 
 kiss the King's hand, after his returne from Holland. This is a mys- 
 tery. The King is preparing to return to the army. 
 
 7 May. I went to visite the Archbp. of Canterbury [Sancroft] yet 
 at Lambeth. I found him alone, and discoursing of the times, espe- 
 cialy of the new design'd Bishops ; he told me that by no canon or 
 divine law they could justifie the removing the present incumbents ; 
 that Dr. Beveridge, designed Bishop of Bath and Wells, came to ask 
 his advice ; that the Abp. told him, tho' he should give it, he believ'd 
 he would not take it ; the Dr. said he would ; why then, says the Abp. 
 when they come to aske, say Nolo, and say it from the heart, there's 
 nothing easier than to resolve your selfe what is to be don in the case ; 
 the Dr. seem'd to deliberate. What he will do I know not, but Bishop 
 Ken, who is to be put out, is exceedingly beloved in his diocese, and if 
 he and the rest should insist on it and plead their interest as free- 
 holders, 'tis believ'd there would be difficulty in their case, and it may 
 indanger a schisme and much disturbance, so as wise men think it had 
 ben better to have let them alone, than to have proceeded with this ri- 
 gour to turne them out for refusing to sweare against their consciences. 
 I asked at parting, when his Grace removed ; he sayd that he had not 
 yet receiv'd any summons, but I found the house altogether disfur- 
 nish'd, and his books packing up. 
 
 I June. I went with my son, and brother-in-law Glanvill and his 
 son, to Wotton, to solemnize the funeral of my Nephew, which was 
 perform'd the next day very decently and orderly by the Herauld, in the 
 afternoon, a very great appearance of the country being there. I was 
 the cheife mourner ; the pall was held by Sir Francis Vincent, Sir 
 Richard Onslow, Mr. Tho. Howard (son to Sir Robert) and Capt. of 
 the King's Guard, Mr. Hyldiard, Mr. James, Mr. Herbert nephew to 
 
 1 It now forms part of the splendid collections in the British Museum. 
 
 2 A mistake. Dr. Edward Fowler was made Bishop of Gloucester in the place of Dr» 
 Robert Frampton, deprived for not taking the oaths. 
 
THE DIAKY OF JOHN EVELYN. 545 
 
 Z^ord Herbert of Cherbury and cousin-german to my deceas'd nephew. 
 He was laid in the vault at Wotton church, in the burying-place of the 
 Family. A greate concourse of coaches and of people accompanied 
 the solemnity. 
 
 10. I went to visite Lord Clarendon, still prisoner in the Tower, 
 tho' Lord Preston being pardon'd was releas'd. 
 
 17 June. A Fast. 
 
 II July. I din'd with Mr. Pepys, where was Dr. Cumberland the 
 new Bishop of Norwich,' Dr. Lloyd having been put out for not ac- 
 knowledging the Government. Cumberland is a very learned, excellent 
 man. — Possession was now given to Dr. Tillotson at Lambeth, by the 
 Sheriff; Abp. Bancroft was gon, but had left his nephew to keepe 
 possession ; and he refusing to deliver it up on the Queene's message, 
 was dispossess'd by the Sheriff and imprison'd. This stout demeanor 
 of the few Bishops who refus'd to take the oathes to K. William, ani- 
 mated a greate party to forsake the Churches, so as to threaten a 
 schisme ; tho' those who look'd further into the ancient practice, found 
 that when (as formerly) there wei-e Bishops displac'd on secular ac- 
 counts, the people never refus'd to acknowledge the new Bishops, pro- 
 vided they were not heretics. The truth is, the whole Cleargy had till 
 now stretch'd the duty of passive obedience, so that the proceedings 
 against these Bis-hops gave no little occasion of exceptions ; but this 
 not amounting to heresy, there was a necessity of receiving the new 
 B.'shops, to prevent a f;iilure of that order in the Church. — 1 went to 
 visit Lord Clarendon in the Tower, but he was gon into the 
 country for aire by the Queene's permission, and under the care oi 
 his warden. 
 
 18 July. I went to London to hear Mr. Stringfellow preach his first 
 sermon in the new erected Church of Trinity, in Conduit Street ; to 
 which I did recommend him to Dr. Tenison for the constant preacher 
 and lecturer. This Church being formerly buiU of timber on Hounslow 
 Heath by K. James for the Mass Priests, being begg'd by Dr. Tenison 
 rector of St. Martin's, was set up by that publiq minded, charitable 
 and pious man neere my son's dwelling in Dover Streete. cheifly at the 
 charge of the Doctor. I know him to be an excellent preacher and a 
 fit person. This Church, tho' erected in St. Martin's, which is the 
 Doctor's parish, he was not onely content, but was the sole industrious 
 mover, that it should be made a separate parish, in regard of the neigh- 
 bourhood having become so populous. Wherefore to countenance and 
 introduce the new Minister, and take possession of a gallery design "d 
 for my son's family, I went to London, where, 
 
 19 July, in the morning Dr. Tenison preach'd the first sermon 
 taking his text from 26 Psalm 8. ' Lord, I have loved the habitation 
 
 } Amistalce. Dr. Cumberland was mads Bishop of Peterborough, and Dr. John T'core 
 succeeded Dr. Lloyd i» *he see of NorAvich. 
 
546 KRECTION OF TRINITY CHURCH. LIBRARY OF ST. MARTIN'S. 
 
 of thy house, and the place where thine honour dwelleth.' In con- 
 cluding he gave notice that this should be made a Parish Church so 
 soone as the Parliament sate, and was to be dedicated to the Holy 
 Trinity ', in honor of the three undivided persons in the Deity ; and 
 he minded them to attend to that faith of the Church, now especially 
 that Arianism, Socinianism, and Atheism began to spread amongst 
 us. — In the afternoone Mr. Stringfellow preach'd on 7 Luke 5, ' the 
 Centurion who had built a Synagogue.' He proceeded to the due 
 praise of persons of such public spirit, and thence to such a character 
 of pious benefactors in the person of the generous Centurion, as was 
 comprehensive of all the virtues of an accomplish'd Christian, in a style 
 so full, eloquent and moving, that I never heard a sermon more 
 apposite to the occasion. He modestly insinuated the obligation they 
 had to that person who should be the author and promoter of such 
 publiq works for the benefit of mankind, especialy to the advantage of 
 Religion, such as building and endowing churches, hospitals, libraries, 
 and schools, procuring the best editions of useful! books, &c. by which 
 he handsomely intimated who it was that had ben so exemplary for his 
 benefaction to that place. Indeed that excellent persjDn Dr. Tenison 
 had also erected and furnish'd a public library [in St. Martin's] ; and 
 set up two or three free schools at his own charges. Besides this he 
 was of an exemplary holy life, took greate pains in constantly preaching, 
 and incessantly employing himselfe to promote the service of God 
 both in publiq and private. I never knew a man of a more universal 
 and generous spirit, with so much modesty, prudence and piety. 
 
 The greate victory of K. William's army in Ireland was look'd on 
 as decisive of that war. The French General Saint Ruth, who had 
 ben so ci^uel to the poore Protestants in France, was slain, with divers 
 of the best Commanders ; nor was it cheape to us, having 1000 kill'd, 
 but of the enemy 4 or 5000. 
 
 26 July. An extraordinary hot season, yet refresh'd by some thunder 
 showers. 
 
 28. I went to Wotton. 
 
 2 August. No sermon in the church in the afternoone, and the 
 curacy ill-served. 
 
 16. A sermon by the curate ; an honest discourse, but read without 
 any spirit or seeming concern ; a greate fault in the education of young 
 preachers. — Great thunder and lightning on Thursday [20], but the 
 wind and rain very violent. — Our fleete come in to lay up the greate 
 ships ; nothing done at sea, pretending that we cannot meete the 
 French. 
 
 ^ This was never made a Parish Church, but still remains a Chapel, and is private property. 
 But under the Act for building 50 new Churches, one was built in the street between Conduii 
 Street and Hanover Square, the first stone being laid 20 June 1712 ; it was dedicated to St. 
 George, and part of St. Martin's was made a separate Parish, now called St. George Hanover 
 Square. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 547 
 
 13 Sept. A greate storm at sea, we lost the Coronation and Har- 
 wich, above 600 men perishing. 
 
 14 October. A most ;Jeasant autumn.— Our navy come in without 
 having perform'd any tfeing, yet there has ben great loss of ships 
 by negligence, and unskilfuU men governing the fleete and the navy 
 board. 
 
 7 Nov. I visited the Earl of Dover, who having made his peace 
 with the King, was now come home. The relation he gave of the 
 strength of the French King, and the difficulty of our forceing him to 
 fight, and any way making impression into France, was very wide from 
 what we fancied. 
 
 8—30 Nov. An extraordinary dry and warm season, without frost, 
 and like a new Spring ; such as had not been known for many yeares. 
 Part of the King's house at Kensington was burnt. 
 
 6 December. Discourse of another Plot, in which severall greate 
 persons were nam'd, but believ'd to be a sham.— A proposal in the 
 House of Commons that every officer in the whole nation who receiv'd 
 a salary above ;£50o or otherwise by virtue of his office should con- 
 tribute it wholly to the support of the war with France, and this upon 
 their oathes. 
 
 25. My daughter-in-law was brought to bed of a daughter. 
 
 28. Din'd at Lambeth with the new Archbishop. Saw the effect of 
 my green-house furnace, set up by the Archbishop's son-in-law. 
 
 30. I againe saw Mr. Charlton's collection of spiders, birds, scor- 
 pions and other serpents, &c. 
 
 1692. I Jan. This last weeke died that pious admirable Christian, 
 excellent philosopher, and my worthy friend, Mr. Boyle, aged about 65. 
 A greate losse to all that knew him, and to the publiq, 
 
 6. At the funeral of Mr. Boyle at Saint Martin's, '^r. Burnet, Bp. 
 of Salisbury, preach'd on 2 Eccles. 26. He concluded with an eulogy 
 due to the deceas'd, who made God and Religion the scope of all his 
 excellent tallents in the knowledge of nature, and who had arriv'd to 
 so high a degree in it, accompanied with such zeale and extraordinary 
 piety, which he shew'd in the whole course of his life, particularly in his 
 exemplary charity on all occasions— that he gave ;£iooo yearly to the 
 distress'd refugees of France and Ireland ; was at the charge of trans- 
 lating the Scriptures into the Irish and Indian tongues, and was now 
 promoting a Turkish translation, as he had formerly don of Grotius on 
 the Truth of the Christian Religion into Arabic, which he caus'd to be 
 dispers'd in the Eastern countries ; that he had settled a fund for 
 preachers who should preach expressly against Atheists, Libertines, 
 Socinians, and Jews ; that he had in his will given £Zo<x> to charitable 
 uses, but that his private charities were extraordinary. He dilated on 
 his learning in Hebrew and Greek, his reading of the Fathers, and 
 solid knowledge in theology, once deliberating about taking holy orders, 
 
5+8 MURDER OF DR. CLENCH. DISMISSAL OF MARLBOROUGH. 
 
 and that at the time of the Restoration of K Cha. 2. when he might 
 have made a greate figure in the nation as to secular honour and titles, 
 his fear of not being able to discharge so weighty a duty as the first, 
 made him decline that, and his humility the other. He spake of his 
 wonderfuU civility to strangers, the greate good which he did by his ex- 
 perience in medicine and chemistry, and to what noble ends he appUed 
 himselfe to his darling studies ; the works both pious and usefuU which 
 he pubhsh'd ; the exact life he led, and the happy end he made. Some- 
 thing was touch'd of his sister the Lady Ranelagh, who died but a few 
 days before him. And truly all this was but his due, and without any 
 grain of flattery. 
 
 This week a most execrable murder was committed on Dr. Clench, 
 sfather of that extraordinary learned child whom 1 have before notic'd. 
 Under pretence of carrying him in a coach to see a patient, they stran- 
 
 ;gled him in it, and sending away the coachman under some pretence, 
 
 •they left his dead body in the coach, and escapd in the dusk of the 
 
 . evening '- 
 
 12 Jan. My grandaughter was christen 'd by Dr. Tenison, now Bp. 
 
 . tif Lincoln, in Trinity Church, being the first that was christen'd there. 
 She was nam'd Jane. 
 
 24. A frosty and dry season continued ; many persons die of apo- 
 
 ' plexies, more than usual. — Lord Marlborough, Lieutenant General of 
 the King's army in England, Gentleman of the bed-chamber, &c. dis- 
 miss'd from all his chutes, military and other, for his excessive taking 
 
 ■ of bribes, covetousness and extortion on all occasions from his inferior 
 
 ■ officers. — Note, this was the Lord who was entirely advanc'd by K 
 James, and was the first who betray'd and forsooke his master. He 
 
 ■was son of Sir Winston Churchill of the Greencloth. 
 ;7 Feb. An extraordinary snow fell in most parts. 
 13. Mr. Boyle having made me one of the trustees for his charit- 
 
 "able bequests, I went to a meeting of the Bp. of Lincoln, Sir Rob. 
 
 wood and Serjeant Rotheram, to settle that clause in 
 
 the will which related to charitable uses, and especialy the appointing 
 and electing a minister to preach one sermon the first Sunday in the 
 month, during the 4 Summer months, expressly against Atheists, 
 Deists, Libertines, Jews, &c. without descending to any other contro- 
 versy whatever, for which £^0 per ann. is to be paid quarterly to the 
 preacher, and at the end of three yeares to proceed to a new election 
 ©f some other able Divine, or to continue the same, as the Trustees 
 
 'Should judge convenient. We made choice of one Mr. Bentley,' chap- 
 
 ilain to the Bp. of Worcester (Dr. Stillingfleet). The first sermon was 
 
 1 One Henry Harrison was tried for this murder, convicted, and hanged ; but he left a 
 paper which was printed, deaying his guilt, 
 
 2 Afterwards the celebrated scholar and critick. Librarian to the King, and Mastei of 
 ^Xrinity College, Cambridge. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 549 
 
 appointed for the first Sunday in March, at St. Martin's ; the second 
 Monday in April at Bow Church, and so alternately. 
 
 28. Lord Marlborough having us'd words against the King, and ben 
 discharg'd from all his greate places, his wife was forbid the Court, 
 and the Princesse of Denmark was desir'd by the Queene to dismiss 
 her from her service, but slie refusing to do so, goes away from Court 
 to Sion house. — Divers new Lords made ; Sir H. Capel,' Sir William 
 Fermor," &c. — Change of Commissioners in the Treasury. — The Par- 
 liament adjourn'd, not well satisfied with affairs. The business of the 
 East India Company, which they would have reform'd, let fall. — The 
 Duke of Norfolk does not succeed in his endeavour to be divorc'd. 
 
 20 March. My son was made one of the Commissioners of the 
 Revenue and Treasury of Ireland, to which imployment he had a 
 mind, far from my wishes. — I visited the Earle of Peterborough, who 
 shew'd me the picture of the Pr. of Wales, newly brought out of France, 
 seeming in my opinion very much to resemble the Queene his mother, 
 and of a most vivacious countenance. 
 
 April. No Spring yet appearing. The Queene Dowager went out 
 of England towards Portugal, as pretended, against the advice of alV 
 her friends. 
 
 4 April. Mr. Bentley preach'd Mr. Boyle's lecture at St. Mary le 
 Bow. So excellent a discourse against the Epicurean system is not to 
 be recapitulated in a few words. He came to me to ask whether T 
 thought it should be printed, or that there was any thing in it which I 
 desired to be alter'd. I tooke this as a civility, and earnestly desir'd it 
 should be printed, as one of the most learned and convincing dis- 
 courses I had ever heard. 
 
 6. A Fast. — K. James sends a letter written and directed by his 
 own hand to severall of the Privy Council, and one to his daughter the 
 Queene Regent, informing them of the Queene being ready to be 
 brought to bed, and summoning them to be at the birth by the middle 
 of May, promising as from the French King, permission to come and 
 retume in safety. 
 
 24. Much apprehension of a French invasion, and of an imiversal 
 rising. Our fleete begins to join with the Dutch. Unkindness be- 
 tweene the Queene and her sister. Very cold and unseasonable 
 weather, scarce a leaf on the trees. 
 
 5 May. Reports of an Invasion were very hot, and alarm 'd the 
 Citty, Court, and People ; nothing but securing s,uspected persons, 
 sending forces to the sea-side, and hastening out the fleete. Con- 
 tinued discourse of the French invasion, and of ours in France. The 
 Eastern wind so constantly blowing, gave our fleete time to unite, which 
 had been so tardy in preparation, that, had not God thus wonderfully 
 
 1 Lord Capel of Tewksbury . 2 Lord Lempster ; afterwards Earl cf PomfrM. 
 
SSO MY GRANDSON AT ETON. INACTIVITY OF OUR FLEET. 
 
 favor'd, the enemy would in all probability have fallen upon us. Many 
 daily secur'd, and Proclamations out for more conspirators. 
 
 8. My kinsman Sir Edward Evelyn of Long Ditton died suddenly, 
 
 12. A Fast. 
 
 13. I din'd at my cousin Chen/s, son ii my Lord Cheny, who mar- 
 ried my cousin Pierpoint. 
 
 15. My niece M. Evelyn was now married to Sir Cyril Wyche, 
 Secretary of State for Ireland.— After all our apprehensions of being 
 invaded, and doubts of our'successe by sea, it pleas'd God to give us a 
 greate victory at sea, to the utter ruine of the French fleete, their ad- 
 miral and all their best men of war, transport ships, &c. 
 
 29. Tho' this day was set apart expressly for celebrating the memo- 
 rable birth, returne, and restauration of the late King Cha. II. there 
 was no notice taken of it, nor any part of the Office annext to the 
 Common Prayer Book made use of, which I think was ill don, in regard 
 his restauration not onely redeem'd us from anarchy and confusion, but 
 restored the Church of England, as it were miraculously. 
 
 9 June. I went to Windsor to carry my grandson to Eton School, 
 where I met my Lady Stonehouse and other of my daughter in-law's 
 relations, who came on purpose to see her before her journey into Ire- 
 land. We went to see the Castle, which we found furnish'd and very 
 neatly kept, as formerly, only that the armes in the Guard Chamber 
 and Keep were remov'd and carried away. — An exceeding greate storm 
 of wind and rain, in some places stripping the trees of their fruit and 
 leaves as if it had ben Winter ; and an extraordinary wet season, with 
 greate floods. 
 
 23 July. I went with my wife, son and daughter, to Eton to see my 
 grandson, and thence to my Lord Godolphin's at Cranburn, where we 
 lay, and were most honorably entertain'd. The next day to St. George's 
 Chapel, and return'd to London late in the evening. 
 
 25. We went to Mr. Hewer's at Clapham, where he has an excel- 
 lent, usefull and capacious house on the Common, built by Sir Den. 
 Gauden, and by him sold to Mr. Hewer, who got a very considerable 
 estate in the Navy, in which, from being Mr. Pepys's clerk, he came to 
 be one of the principal officers, but was put out of all employment on 
 the Revolution, as were all the best officers, on suspicion of being no 
 friends to the change ; such were put in their places as were most 
 shamefully ignorant and unfit. Mr. Hewer lives very handsomely and 
 friendly to every body. — Our fleete was now sailing on their long pre- 
 tence of a descent on the French coast ; but after having sail'd 100 
 leagues, return'd, the Admiral and Officers disagreeing as to the place 
 where they were to land, and the time of yeare being so far spent. To 
 the greate dishonor of those at the helm, who concerted their matters 
 so indiscreetly, or, as some thought, designedly. 
 
 This whole Summer was exceeding wet and rainy ; the like had not 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 551 
 
 ben known since the year 1648 ; whilst in Ireland they had not known 
 so greate a drowth. 
 
 16. I went to visite the Bp. of Lincoln, when amongst other things 
 he told me that one Dr. Chaplin of University Coll. in Oxford was the 
 person who wrote the ' Whole Duty of Ma7i/ that he us'd to read it to 
 his pupils, and communicated it to Dr. Stern, afterwards Abp. of York, 
 but would never suffer any of his pupils to have a copy of it. 
 
 10 August. A Fast. Came the sad news of the Hurricane and 
 Earthquake^ which has destroy'd almost the whole Island of Jamaica, 
 many thousands having perish'd. 
 
 11 August. My son, his wife, and little daughter, went for Ireland, 
 there to reside as one of the Commissioners of the Revenue. 
 
 14. Still an exceeding wet season. 
 
 15 Sept. There happen'd an Earthquake, which tho' not so great 
 as to do any harm in England, was universal in all these parts of 
 Europe. It shook the house at Wotton, but was not perceiv'd by any 
 save a servant or two, who were making my bed, and another in a 
 garret. I and the rest being at dinner below in the parlour were not 
 sensible of it. The dreadful one in Jamaica this Summer was profanely 
 and ludicrously represented in a puppet-play, or some such lewd pas- 
 time, in the Fair at Souihwark, which caus'd the Queene to put downe 
 that idle and vicious mock shew. 
 
 I Oct. The season was so exceedingly cold, by reason of a very 
 long and tempestuous North-east wind, that this usually pleasant sea- 
 son was very uncomfortable. No fruit ripened kindly. — Harbord dies 
 at Belgrade ; Lord Paget sent Ambassador in his roome. 
 
 6 Nov. There was a Vestry call'd about repairing or new building 
 of the Church [at Deptford], which I thought unseasonable in regard 
 of the heavy taxes, and other improper circumstances, which I there 
 declar'd. 
 
 ID. A solemn Thanksgiving for our victory at sea, the safe return of 
 the King, &c. 
 
 20. Dr. Lancaster, the new Vicar of St. Martin's preach'd. 
 
 A signal robbery in Hertfordshire of the Tax money bringing out of 
 the North towards London. They were set upon by severall desperate 
 persons, who dismounted and stopt all travellers on the road, and 
 guarding them in a field, when the exploit was don, and the treasure 
 taken, they kill'd all the horses of those whom they had stay'd to hinder 
 pursuit, being 16 horses. They then dismiss'd those that they had dis- 
 mounted. 
 
 14 Dec. With much reluctance we gratified Sir Jo. Rotheram, one 
 of Mr. Boyle's trustees, by admitting the Bp. of Bath and Wells 
 (Kidder) to be Lecturer for the ncxtyeare, instead of Mr. Bentley, who 
 had so worthily acquitted himselfe. We intended to take him in 
 againe the next yeare. 
 
552 THE SELF-EENYING ACT. BURN ING OF DR. BURNET'S BOOK. 
 
 1693. Jan. Contest in Parliament about a selfe-denying Act, that 
 no Parliament man should have any office : it wanted only 2 or 3 
 voices to have ben carried. The Duke of Norfolk's Bill for a Divorce 
 thrown out, he having manag"d it very indiscreetly. The quarrell be- 
 tweene Admiral Russell and Lord Nottingham yet undetermin'd. 
 
 4 Feb. After five days' trial and extraordinary contest, the Lord 
 Mohun was acquitted by the Lords of the murder of IVIontfoid tlie 
 player, notwithstanding the Judges, from the pregnant witnesses of 
 the fact, had declar'd him guilty ; but whether in commiseration of 
 his youth, being not 18 years old, tho' exceeding dissolute, or upon 
 whatever other reason, the K. himseife present some part of the trial, 
 and satisfied, as they report, that he was culpable, 69 acquitted him, 
 only 14 condemnd him. — Unheard-of stories of the universal increase 
 of Witches in New England ; men, women and children devoting 
 themselves to the devil, so as to threaten the subversion of the govern- 
 ment.' At the same time there was a conspiracy amongst the negroes 
 in Barbadoes to murder all their masters, discover'd by overhearing 
 a discourse of two of the slaves, and so preventing the execution of the 
 designe. Hitherto an exceeding mild Winter. France in the utmost 
 misery and poverty for want of corn and subsistence, whilst the am- 
 bitious King is intent to pursue his conquests on the rest of his 
 neighbours both by sea and land. Our Admiral Russell laid aside for 
 not pursueing the advantage he had obtain'd over the French in the 
 past Summer ; three others chosen in his place. Dr. Burnet Bishop 
 of Sahsbury's book burnt by the hangman for an expression of the 
 King's title by conquest, on a complaint of Jo. How a Member of 
 Parliament, little better than a madman. 
 
 19. The Bp. of Lincoln preach'd in the afternoon at the Tabernacle 
 neere Golden Square, set up by him. — Proposals of a marriage between 
 Mr. Draper and my daughter Susanna. — Hitherto an exceeding warme 
 Winter (such as has seldom ben known, and portending an unpros- 
 perous Spring as to the fruits of the earth ; our climate requires more 
 cold and winterly weather. — ThedreadfuU and astonishing £ari/igi/aie 
 swallowing up Catanea and other famous and ancient cities, with more 
 than 100,000 persons, in Sicily, on 11 Jan. last, came now to be re- 
 ported amongst us. 
 
 26. An extraordinary deep snow, after almost no Winter, and a 
 sudden gentle thaw. A deplorable Earthquake at IVIalta, since that 
 of Sicily, nearly as greate. 
 
 19 March. A new Secretary of State, Sir Jo. Trenchard ; the At- 
 torney General Somers made Lord Keeper, a young lawyer of extraor- 
 
 * Some account of these unfortunate persons is given in the History of Surrey, II. 714, from 
 Ih- papers of the Rev. Mr. Miller, vicar of Effingham in that county, who was Chaplain to 
 the King's foires there from 1692 to 16Q5. Some of these poor people were convicted and 
 executed, but Sir ^Vm. Piiipps the Governor had the good sense to reprieve, and alterwarda 
 parduD, several, ;iud the Queen approved his coDducL. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 553 
 
 dinaty merit— King William goes towards Flanders, but returns, the 
 wind being contrary. 
 
 31. I met the King going to Gravesend to inibark in his yatcht for 
 Holland. 
 
 23 April. An extraordinary wet Spring. 
 
 27. My daughter Susanna was married to William Draper Esq. in 
 the chapel of Ely House, by Dr. Tenison, Bp. of Lincoln (since Arch- 
 bishop). I gave her in portion ^4000, her jointure is £soo per ann. 
 I pray Almighty God to give his blessing to this marriage. She is a 
 gooil child, religious, discreet, ingenious and qualified with all the 
 ornaments of her sex. She has a peculiar talent in designe, as painting 
 in oil and miniature, and an extraordinary genius for whatever hands 
 can do with a needle. She has the French tongue, has read most of 
 the Greek and Roman Authors and Poets, using her talents with 
 greate modesty ; exquisitely shap'd, and of an agreeable countenance. 
 This character is due to her, tho' coming from her father. Much of 
 this week spent in ceremonies, receiving visites and entertaining rela- 
 tions, and a greate part of the next in returning visites. 
 
 1 1 May. We accompanied my daughter to her husband's house, 
 .Adscomb, near Croydon, where with many of his and our relations we 
 were magnificently treated. There we left her in an apartment very 
 richly adorn'd and furnish'd, and I hope in as happy a condition as 
 could be vvish'd, and with the greate satisfaction of all our triends ; for 
 which God be prais'd ! 
 
 14. Nothing yet of action from abroad. Muttering of a design to 
 bring forces under colour of an expected descent, to be a standing army 
 for other purposes. Talk of a declaration of the French King, offering 
 mighty advantages to the Confederates, exclusive of K. William, and 
 another of K. James, with an universal pardon, and referring the com- 
 posing of all differences to a Parliament. These were yet but dis- 
 courses ; but something is certainly under it. A declaration or 
 manifesto from K. James, so written that many thought it reasonable, 
 and much more to the purpose than any of his former. 
 
 June. Whitsunday. I went to my Lord Griffith's chapel ; the 
 common Church office was us'd for the King without naming the 
 person, with some other, apposite to the necessity and circumstances 
 of the time. 
 
 II. I din'd at Sir William Godolphin's, and after evening prayer 
 visited the Dutchess of Grafton. 
 
 21. I saw a great auction of Pictures in the Banquetting House, 
 WhitehaU. They had ben my Lord Melford's, now Ambassador from 
 K. James at Rome, and engag'd to his creditors here. Lord Mulgrave 
 and Sir Edward Seymour came to my house, and desir'd me to go with 
 them to the sale. Divers more of the greate Lords, &c. were there and 
 bought pictures dear enough. There were some very excellent of Van- 
 
S54 RARE PICTURES; THE QUEEN'S CABINET; THE LOTTERV. 
 
 dyke, Rubens, and Bassan. Lord Godolphin bought the picture of the 
 Boys by Morillio the Spaniard for 80 guineas, deare enough ; my 
 nephew Glanville, the old Earl of AnindelFs Head by Rubens for 20/. 
 Growing late, I did not stay till all were sold. 
 
 24. A very wet hay harvest, and little Summer as yet. 
 
 9 July. Mr. Tippin, successor of Dr. Parr at Camberwell, preach'd 
 an excellent sermon. 
 
 13. I saw the Queen's rare cabinets and collection of china ; which 
 was wonderfully rich and plentifull, but especialy a large cabinet, look- 
 ing-glasse frame and stands, all of amber, much of it white, with histo- 
 rical bas-reliefs and statues, with medals carved in them, esteem'd worth 
 /.4000, sent by the Duke of Brandenburg, whose country, Prussia, 
 abounds with amber, cast up by the sea; divers other china and Indian 
 cabinets, screens and hangings. In her library were many bookes in 
 English, French, and Dutch, of all sorts ; a cupboard of gold plate ; a 
 cabinet of silver fiUagree, which I think was our Queene Mary's', and 
 which in my opinion should have ben generously sent to her. 
 
 x8. I din'd with Lord Mulgrave, with the Earl of Devonshire, Mr. 
 Hampden (a scholar and fine gentleman). Dr. Davenant, Sir Henry 
 Vane and others, and saw and admir'd the Venus of Corregio, which 
 Lord Mulgrave had newly bought of Mr. Daun for ^250, one of the 
 best paintings I ever saw. 
 
 I August. Lord Capel, Sir Cyril Wyche and Mr. Duncomb made 
 Lords Justices in Ireland ; Lord Sydney recall'd and made Master of 
 the Ordnance. 
 
 6. Very lovely harvest weather, and a wholesome season, but no 
 garden fruit. 
 
 31 Oct. A very wet and uncomfortable season. 
 
 12 Nov. Lord Nottingham resign'd as Secretary of State; the 
 Commissioners of the Admiralty outed, and Russell restor'd to his 
 office. — The season continued very wet, as it had nearly all the Sum- 
 mer, if one might call it Summer, in which there was no fruit, but corn 
 was very plentifull. 
 
 14. In the Lottery set up after the Venetian manner by Mr. Neale, 
 Sir R. Haddock one of the Commissioners of the Navy had the 
 greatest lot, ^^.3000 ; my coachman £.^0. 
 
 17. Was the funeral of Capt. Young, who died of the stone and 
 greate age. I think he was the first who in the first war with Crom- 
 well against Spain took the Governor of the Havanna, and another 
 rich prize, and struck the first stroke against the Dutch fleete in the first 
 war with Holland in the time of the Rebellion ; a sober man and an 
 excellent seaman. 
 
 3a Much importun'd to take the office of President of the Royal 
 
 ' Mary of Este, King James's Queen, now with him in France. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 555 
 
 Society but I again dcclin'd it. Sir Robert Southwell was continued. 
 We all din'd at Pontac's as usual. 
 
 3 Dec. Mr. Bentleypreach'dattheTabernacleneere Golden Square 
 I gave my voice for him to proceed on his former subject the following 
 yeare m Mr. Boyle's lecture, in which he had ben interrupted by the 
 importunity of Sir J. Rotheram that the Bishop of Chichester might be 
 chosen the yeare before, to the great dissatisfaction of the Bishop 
 of Lincoln and myselfe. We chose Mr. Bentley againe— The 
 Dutchesse of Grafton's Appeal to the House of Lords for the Pro- 
 thonotaries place given to the late Duke and to her son by K. Cha II 
 now challeng'd by the Lord Cheife Justice. The Judges were severely 
 reprov'd on something they said. 
 
 10. A very greate storm with thunder and lightning. 
 
 1694. I January. Prince Lewis of Baden came to London, and 
 was much feasted. Danish ships arrested carrying corn and naval 
 stores to France. 
 
 11. Supp'd at Mr. Edward Sheldon's, where was Mr. Dryden the 
 Poet, who now intended to write no more Plays, being intent on his 
 Translation of Virgil. He read to us his Prologue and Epilogue to his 
 valedictory Play, now shortly to be acted. 
 
 21. Lord Macclesfield, Lord Warrington and Lord Westmoreland 
 all died within about one week. Severall persons shot, hang'd and 
 made away with themselves. 
 
 1 1 February. Now was the greate trial of the Appeal of Lord Bath 
 and Lord Montagu before the Lords, for the estate of the late Duke of 
 Albemarle. 
 
 10 March. Mr. Stringfellow preach'd at Trinity Parish, being re- 
 stor'd to that place, after the contest betweene the Queen and the 
 Bishop of London who had displac'd him. 
 
 22. Came the dismal news of the disaster befallen our Turkey fleet 
 by tempest, to the almost utter ruin of that trade, the convoy of 3 or 
 4 men of war and divers merchant-ships with all their man and lading 
 having perish'd. 
 
 25. Dr. Goode Minister of St. Martin's preach'd ; he was likewise 
 put in by the Queene, on the issue of her process with the Bishop of 
 London. 
 
 30. I went to the Duke of Norfolk to desire him to make my cousin 
 Evelyn of Nutfield one of the Deputy Lieutenants of Surrey, and in- 
 treat him to dismiss my brother, now unable to serve by reason of ag? 
 and infirmity. The Duke granted the one, but would not suffer my 
 brother to resign his commission, desiring he should keepe the honour 
 of it during his life, tho' he could not act. He profess'd greate kind- 
 kindnesse to our family. 
 
 I April. Dr. Sharp, Archbishop of York, preach'd in the aftemoone 
 at the Tabernacle by Soho. 
 
5S6 HIGflLAND DRAGOONS (? THE SCOTS greys). MR. WALLER. 
 
 13. Mr. Bentley, our Boyle Lecturer, Chaplain to the Bishop of 
 Worcester, came to see me. 
 
 15. One Mr. Stanhope' preach'd a most excellent sermon. 
 
 22. A fiery exhalation rising out of the sea spread itselfe in Mont- 
 gomeryshire a furlong broad, and many miles in length, burning all straw, 
 hay, thatch and grass, but doing no harm to trees, timber, or any solid 
 things, onely firing barns or thatch'd houses. It left such a taint or» 
 the grasse as to kill all the cattle that eate of it. I saw the attestations 
 in the hands of the sufferers. It lasted many moneths.— ' The Berke- 
 ley Castle' sunk by the French coming from the East Indies, worth 
 ;£.200,ooo. The French took our Castle of Gamboo in Guinea, so thai 
 the Africa Actions fell to /30, and the India to £S,o. — Some Regiments 
 of Highland Dragoons were on their march through England ; they 
 were of large stature, well appointed and disciplin'd. One of them 
 having reproch'd a Dutchman for cowardice in our late fight, was 
 attack'd by two Dutchmen, when with his sword he struck off the head 
 of one, and cleft the skull of the other down to his chin. 
 
 A very young gentleman nam'd Wilson, the younger son of one who 
 had not above £.200 a yeare estate, liv'd in the garb and equipage of 
 the richest nobleman, for house, furniture, coaches, saddle horses, and 
 kept a table and all things accordingly, redeem'd his father's estate, 
 and gave portions to his sisters, being challeng'd by one Laws a Scotch- 
 man, was killed in a duel, not fairly. The quarrel arose from his taking 
 away his owne sister from lodging in a house where this Laws had a 
 mistress, which the mistress of the house thinking a disparagement to it, 
 and looseing by it, instigated Laws to this duel. He was taken and 
 condemn'd for murder. The mystery is how this so young a gentleman 
 very sober and of good fame, could live in such an expensive manner ; 
 it could not be discover'd by all possible industry, or intreaty of his 
 friends to make him reveal it. It did not appear that ke was kept by 
 women, play, coining, padding, or dealing in chemistry ; but he would 
 sometimes say that if he should live ever so long, he had wherewith to 
 maintaine himselfe in the same manner. He was very civil and weU 
 natur'd, but of no greate force of understanding. This was a subject 
 of much discourse. 
 
 24. I went to visit Mr. Waller, an extraordinary young gentleman of 
 greate accomplishments, skill'd in mathematics, anatomy, music, paint- 
 ing both in oil and miniature to greate perfection, an excellent botanist, 
 a rare ingraver on brass, writer in Latin, and a poet ; and with all this 
 exceeding modest. His house is an Academy of itselfe. I carried him 
 to see Brompton Park [by Knightsbridge], where he was in admira- 
 tion at the store of rare plants, and the method he found in that noble 
 
 • Afterwards Dean of Canterbury ; a most respectable and worthy Divine, who made no 
 scruple to publish what he found truly pious in the works of a Romac CathoL^c Priest. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 557 
 
 Kursery, and how well it was cultivated.— A public Bank of ;^. 140,000 
 set up by Act of Parliament among other Acts, and Lotteries for money 
 CO carry on the war.— The whole month of April without rain.— A 
 greate rising of people in Buckinghamshire, on the declaration of a 
 famous preacher, till now reputed a sober and religious man, that our 
 Lord Christ appearing to him on the i6th of this month, told him he 
 was now come down, and would appeare publickly at Pentecost, and 
 gather all the Saints, Jews and Gentiles, and lead them to Jerusalem, 
 and begin the Millenium, and destroying and Judging the wicked de- 
 liver the government of the world to the Saints. Greate multitudes fol- 
 low'd this preacher, divers of the most zealous brought their goods and 
 considerable sums of money, and began to live in imitation of the pri- 
 mitive Saints, minding no private concerns, continually dancing and 
 singing Hallelujah night and day. This brings to mind what I lately 
 happen'd to find in Alstedius, that the thousand yeares should begin 
 this very yeare 1694; it is in his Encyclopasdia Biblica. My copy of 
 the book printed neere 60 yeares ago. 
 
 4 May. I went this day with m.y wife and four servants from Sayes 
 Court, removing much furniture of all sorts, books, pictures, hangings, 
 bedding, &c. to furnish the apartment my brother assign'd me, and now, 
 after more than 40 years, to spend the rest of my dayes with him at 
 WoltOii, where I was born ; leaving my house at Deptford full furnish'd, 
 and 3 servants to m.y son-in-law Draper.to pass the summer in,and such 
 longer time as he should think fit to make use of it. — — 
 
 6 May. This being the first Sunday in the month, the blessed Sa- 
 crament of the Lord's Supper ought to have ben celebrated at Wotton 
 Church, but in this parish it is exceedingly neglected, so that unlesse at 
 the 4 greate feasts, there is no communion hereabouts, which is a greate 
 fault both in ministers and people. I have spoken to my brother who 
 is the patron, to discourse the Minister about it. — Scarcely one shower 
 has fallen since the beginning of April. 
 
 1 3. Some refreshing showers.— Lord Falkland (grandson to the 
 learned Lord Falkland, Secretary of State to K. Cha. I. and slain in 
 his service) died now of the small pox. He was a pretty, brisk, under- 
 standing, industrious young gentleman ; had formerly ben faulty, but 
 much reclaim'd. He married a greate fortune, besides being intitled 
 to a vast sum as his share of the Spanish Wreck, taken up at the expence 
 of divers adventurers. From a Scotch Viscount he was made an Eng- 
 lish Baron, design'd Ambassadorto Holland ; had ben Treasurer of the 
 Navy, and advancing in the new Court. AH now gone in a moment, 
 and I think the title is extinct. I know not whether the estate devolves 
 to my cousin Carew. It was at Lord Falkland's, whose lady impor- 
 tun'd us to let our daughter be with her some time, that that deare 
 child took the same infection, which kill'd her some yeares ago. 
 
 3 June. Mr. Edwards, minister of Denton in Sussex, a living in 
 
5S8 FOUNDATION OF THE BANK. ST. PAUL'S. THE SEVEN DIALS. 
 
 my brother's gift, came to see him. He had suffer'd much by afire. 
 
 — Seasonable showers. 
 
 14 June. The public Fast. Mr. Wotton, that extraordinary leam'd 
 young man, preach'd excellently. 
 
 I July. Mr. Duncomb, minister of Aubury, preach'd at Wotton, a 
 very religious and exact discourse. 
 
 July. The first greate Bank for a fund of money being now esta- 
 blish'd by Act of Parliament was fill'd and compleated to the sum of 
 ^.120,000, and put under the Government of the most able and wealthy 
 citizens of London. All who adventur'd any sum had 4 per cent, so 
 long as it lay in the Bank, and had power either to take it out at plea- 
 sure, or transfer it.- — Glorious steady weather, corn and all fruits in 
 extraordinary plenty generally. 
 
 15. Lord Berkeley burnt Dieppe and Havre de Grace with bombs 
 in revenge for the defeat at Brest. This manner of destructive war 
 was begun by the French, is exceedingly ruinous, especially falling on 
 the poorer people, and does not seem to tend to make a more speedy 
 end of the war, but rather to exasperate and incite to revenge. — Many 
 executed at London for clipping mottey, now don to that intolerable 
 extent, that there was hardly any money that was worth above halfe 
 the nominal value. 
 
 4 Aug. I went to visit my cousin G. Evelyn of Nutfield, where I 
 found a family of 10 children, 5 sons and 5 daughters. All beautiful! 
 women grown, and extreamly well fashion'd. All painted in one piece, 
 very well by Mr. Lutterell in crayon on copper, and seeming to be as 
 finely painted as the best miniature. They are the children of 2 
 extraordinary beautifuU wives. The boys were at school. 
 
 5. Stormy and unseasonable wet weather this week. 
 
 5 Oct. I went to St. Paul's to see the choir, now finish'd as to the 
 stone work, and the scaffolds struck both without and within, in that 
 part. Some exceptions might perhaps be taken as to the placing 
 columns on pilasters at the East tribunal. As to the rest, it is a 
 piece of architecture without reproch. The pulling out the formes, 
 like drawers, from under the stalls is ingenious. I went also to see the 
 building beginning neere St. Giles's, where 7 streets make a star from 
 a Doric pillar plac'd in the middle of a circular area ; said to be built 
 by Mr. Neale^ introducer of the late Lotteries in imitation of those at 
 Venice, now set up here, for himselfe twice, and now one for the state. 
 
 28. Mr. Stringfellow preach'd at Trinity Church. 
 
 22 Nov. Visited the Bishop of Lincoln [Tenison] newly come on 
 the death of the Abp. of Canterbury, who a few days before had a 
 paralytic stroke. The same day and month that Abp. Sancroft was 
 
 I This Mr. Neale took a large piece of ground on the north side of Piccadilly of Sir Walter 
 Clarges, agreeing to lay out ;^. 15,000 m building ; but he did not do so, and Sir Walter having 
 after great trouble, ^ot the lease out of his hands, built what is now called Clarges street. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 559 
 
 put out. — A very sickly time, especialy the small pox, of which divers 
 considerable persons died. The State Lottery drawing, Mr. Cock, a 
 French Refugee and a President in the Parliament of Paris for the 
 Reform'd, drew a Lot oi £.1000 per ann. 
 
 29. I visited the Marquiss of Normanby and had much discourse 
 concerning K. Cha. II. being poison'd. — Also concerning the Quinquina 
 which the physicians would not give to the King, at a time when in a 
 dangerous ague it was the only thing that could cure him (out of envy 
 because it had ben brought into vogue by Mr. Tudor an apothecary), 
 till Dr. Short, to whom the King sent to know his opinion of it privately, 
 he being reputed a Papist, (but who was in truth a very honest good 
 Christian) sent word to the King that it was the only thing which 
 could save his life, and then the King injoin'd his physicians to give 
 .it to him, which they did, and he recover'd. Being asked by this 
 Lord why they would not prescribe it. Dr. Lower said it would spoil 
 their practice, or some such expression, and at last confessed it was a 
 remedy fit only for Kings. — Exception was taken that the late Arch- 
 bishop did not cause any of his Chaplains to use any office for the sick 
 during his illness. 
 
 9 December. I had newes that my deare and worthy friend Dr. 
 Tenison, Bp. of Lincoln, was made Abp. of Canterbury, for which I 
 thank God and rejoice, he being most worthy of it, for his learning, 
 piety and prudence. 
 
 13. I went to London to congratulate him. He being my proxy 
 gave my vote for Dr. Williams to succeed Mr. Bentley in Mr. Boyle's 
 lectures. 
 
 29. The small pox increas'd exceedingly, and was very mortal. The 
 Queene died of it on the 28th. 
 
 1695. 13 Jan. The Thames was frozen over. The deaths by small 
 pox increas'd to 500 more than in the preceding week. — The King and 
 Princesse Ann reconcil'd, and she was invited to keepe her Court at 
 Whitehall, having hitherto liv'd privately at Berkeley house ; she was 
 desir'd to take into her family divers servants of the late Queene ; to 
 maintain them the King has assign'd her £.^0°° a quarter. 
 
 20 Jan. The frost and continual snow has now lasted neere 5 weekes. 
 
 Feb. Lord Spencer married the Duke of Newcastle's daughter, and 
 our neighbour Mr. Hussey married a daughter of my cousin Geo. 
 Evelyn of Nutfield. 
 
 3. The long frost intermitted, but not gone. 
 
 17. Call'd to London by Lord Godolphin, one of the Lords of the 
 Treasury, offering me the Treasureship of the Hospital design'd to be 
 built at Greenwich for worn-out seamen. 
 
 24. I saw the Queene lie in state. 
 
 27. The Marquiss of Normanby told me K. Cha. had a designe to 
 buy all King street, and build it nobly, it being the streete leading to 
 
56o DEATH AND CHARACTER OF QUEEN MARY. 
 
 Westminster. This might have been don for the espence of the 
 Queene's funeral, which was ^.50,000, against her desire. 
 
 5 March. I went to see the ceremonie. Never was so universal a 
 mourning, all the Parliament men had cloaks given them, and 400 poore 
 women ; all the streetes hung, and the middle of the streete boarded 
 and cover'd with black cloth. There were all the nobility, Mayor, 
 Aldermen, Judges, &c. 
 
 8. I supp'd at the Bp. of Lichfield and Coventry's, who related to 
 me the pious behaviour of the Queene in all her sicknesse, which was 
 admirable. She never enquir'd of what opinion psrsons were, who were 
 objects of charity ; that on opening a cabinet a paper was found, 
 wherein she had desir'd that her body might not be open'd, or any ex- 
 traordinary expence at her funeral, whenever she should die. This 
 paper was not found in time to be observ'd. There were other excel- 
 lent things under her owne hand, to the very least of her debts, which 
 were very small, and every thing in that exact method as seldom is 
 found in any private person. In sum she was an admirable woman, 
 abating for taking the Crown without a more due apology, as does, if 
 possible, outdo the renown'd Queene Elizabeth. 
 
 10. I din'd at the Earl of Sunderland's with Lord Spencer. My 
 Lord shew'd me his Library, now again improv'd by many books 
 bought at the sale of Sir Charles Scarborough, an eminent physician, 
 which was the very best collection, especially of mathematical books, 
 that was I beheve in Europe, once design'd for the King's Library at 
 St. James's, but the Queene's dying, who was the greate patroness of 
 that designe, it was let fall, and the books were miserably dissipated. 
 
 The new edition of Camden's Britannia was now publish'd, with 
 greate additions ; those to Surrey were mine, so that I had one pre- 
 sented to me. Dr. Gale shew'd me a MS. of some parts of the New 
 Testament in vulgar Latin, that had belong'd to a monastery in the 
 North of Scotland, which he esteem'd to be above 800 yeares old: 
 there were some considerable various readings observeable, as in I 
 John, and genealogy of St. Luke. 
 
 24. Easter day. Mr. Duncomb, parson of this parish, preach'd, 
 which he hardly comes to above once a yeare, tho' but 7 or 8 miles off; 
 a florid discourse read out of his notes. The Holy Sacrament foUow'd, 
 which he administer'd with very little reverence, leaving out manv 
 prayers and exhortation, nor was there any oblation. This ought to be, 
 reform'd, but my good brother did not well consider when he gave away 
 this living and the next [Abinger]. 
 
 March. The latter end of the month sharp and severe cold, with 
 much snow, and hard frost ; no appearance of Spring. 
 
 31. Mr. Lucas preach'd in the afternoon at Wotton. 
 
 7. April. Lord Halifax died suddenly at London, the day his 
 daughter was married to the Earl ol Nottingham's son at Burleigh. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. r(,j 
 
 Loid H. was a very rich man, very witty, in his younger days some- 
 what positive. 
 
 14. After a most severe cold and snowy winter, without almost 
 any shower for many months, the wind continuing N. and E. and not 
 a leafe appearing : the weather and wind now chang'd, some showers 
 fell, and there was a remission of cold. 
 
 21. The Spring begins to appeare, yet the trees hardly leafd. - Sir 
 T. Cooke discovers what prodigious bribes have been given by some of 
 the E. India Company out of the stock, which makes a greate clamour. 
 —Never were so many private Bills pass'd for unsettling estates, 
 shewing the wonderfull prodigality and decay of families. 
 
 S May. I came to Deptford from Wotton, in order to the first 
 meeting of the Commissioners for endowing an Hospital for Seamen 
 %t Greenwich : it was at the Guildhall, London. Present, the Abp. 
 of Canterbury, Lord Keeper, Lord Privy Seal, Lord Godolphin, Duke 
 of Shrewsbury, Duke of Leeds, Earls of Dorset and Monmouth, Com- 
 missioners of the Admiralty and Navy, Sir Robert Clayton, Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren, and severall more. The Commission was read by Mr, 
 Lowndes, Secretary to the Lords of the Treasury, surveyor general. 
 
 17 May. Second meeting of the Commissioners, and a Committee 
 appointed to go to Greenwich to survey the place, I being one of them. 
 
 21. We went to survey Greenwich, Sir Robert Clayton, Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren, Mr. Travers, the King's Surveyor ; Capt. Sanders and 
 myselfe. 
 
 24. We made report of the state of Greenwich House, and how 
 the standing part might be made serviceable at present for £.6000, 
 and what ground would be requisite for the whole designe. — My 
 Lord Keeper order'd me to prepare a book for subscriptions, and a 
 preamble to it. 
 
 31. Met again. Mr. Vanburgh was made Secretary to the Com- 
 mission, by my nomination of him to the Lords, which was all don 
 that day. 
 
 7 June. The Commissioners met at Guildhall, when there were 
 scruples and contests of the Lord Mayor (Sir W. Ashurst), who would 
 not meet, not being nam'd as one of the Quorum, so that a new Com- 
 mission was requir'd, tho' the Lord Keeper and the rest thought it too 
 nice a punctilio. 
 
 14. Met at Guildhall, but could do nothing for want of a Quorum. 
 
 5 July. At Guildhall; account of subscriptions, about seven 
 or ;^8ooo. 
 
 6. I din'd at Lambeth, making my first visite to the Archbishop, 
 where there was much company and greate cheere. After prayers in 
 the evening, my Lord made me stay to shew me his house, furniture 
 and garden, which were all very fine, and far beyond the usual Arch- 
 bishops, not as affected by this, but being bought ready furnish 'd by 
 
 36 
 
562 BOMBARDMENT OF CADIZ— CRUEL. CAPT. GIFFORD. 
 
 his predecessor. We discours'd of several! public matters, particularly 
 of the Princesse of Denmark, who made so little figure. 
 
 II July. Met at Guildhall : not a full Committee, so nothing don. 
 
 14. No sermon at Church, but after prayers the names of all the 
 parishioners were read, in order to gathering the tax of 4^'. for mar- 
 riages, burials, &c. A very imprudent tax, especially this reading the 
 names, so that most went out of the Church. 
 
 19. I din'd at Sir Purbeck Temple's neere Croydon ; his lady is 
 aunt to my son-in-law Draper ; the house exactly furnish'd. Went 
 thence with my son and daughter to Wotton. — At Wotton, Mr. Dun- 
 comb, parson of Albury, preach'd excellently. 
 
 28. A very wet season. 
 
 II August. The weather now so cold that greater frosts were not 
 always scene in the midst of Winter ; this succeeded much wet, and 
 set harvest extremely back. 
 
 25. Mr. Offley preach'd at Abinger ; too much of controversy on a 
 point of no consequence, for the country people here. This was the 
 first time I had heard him preach.^ — Bombarding of Cadiz j a cruel and 
 brutish way of making war, first begun by the French. — The season 
 wet, greate storms, unseasonable harvest weather. — My good and 
 worthy friend Capt. Gifford, who that he might get some competence 
 to live decently, adventur'd all he had in a voyage of two yeares to 
 the East Indies, was, with another greate ship, taken by some French 
 men of war, almost within sight of England, to the losse of neere 
 ^.70,000, to my great sorrow, and pity of his wife, he being also a 
 valiant and industrious man. The losses of this sort to the Nation 
 have been immense, and all through negligence and little care to secure 
 the same neere our own coasts ; of infinitely more concern to the pub- 
 lic than spending their time in bombarding and ruining 2 or 3 paltry 
 towns, without any benefit, or weakening our enemys, who tho' they 
 began, ought not to be imitated in an action totally adverse to hu- 
 manity or Christianity. 
 
 29. Very cold weather.— Sir Purbeck Temple, uncle to my son 
 Draper, died suddenly. A greate funeral at Adscomb. His lady being 
 owne aunt to my son Draper, he hopes for a good fortune, there being 
 no heir. There had ben a new meeting of the Commissioners about 
 Greenwich Hospital, on the new Commission, where the Lord Mayor, 
 &c. appear'd, but I was prevented by indisposition from attending. 
 The weather very sharp. Winter approching apace.^The King went a 
 progi-esse into the North, to shew himselfe to the people against the 
 elections, and was every where complimented, except at Oxford, where 
 
 ^ This gentleman gave good farms in Sussex for the better endowment of Oakwood Chapel, 
 which is a Chapel of ease for the lower parts of Abinger and Wotton, both of which livings 
 aro in the gift of the owner of Wotton, and many of the inhabitants thereabouts being distant 
 5 miles from their parish churches, besides the extreme badness of the roads in wintftr. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 563 
 
 rt was not as he expected, so that he hardly stopp'd an hour there, and 
 having seene the Theatre, did not receive the banquet propos'd.— 
 I din'd with Dr. Gale at St. Paul's School, who shew'd me many 
 curious passages out of some ancient Platonists MSS. concerning 
 the Trinity, which this great and learned person would publish, with 
 many other rare things, if he was encourag'd, and eas'd 01 the burden 
 of teaching. 
 
 25 Oct. The Abp. and myselfe went to Hammersmith, to visite Sir 
 Sam. Morland, who was entirely blind ; a very mortifying sight. He 
 shew'd us his invention of writing, which was very ingenious ; also his 
 wooden Kalender, which instructed him all by feeling ; and other pretty 
 and useful inventions of mills, pumps, &c. and the pump he had erected 
 that serves water to his garden, and to passengers, with an inscription, 
 and brings from a filthy part of the Thames neere it a most perfect and 
 pure water. He had newly buried ^.200 worth of music books 6 feet 
 under ground, being, as he said, love songs and vanity. He plays him- 
 selfe Psalms and religious hymns on the Theorbo.— Very mild weather 
 the whole of October. 
 
 10 Nov. Mr. Stanhope, Vicar of Lewisham, preach'd at Whitehall. 
 He is one of the most accompHsh'd preachers I ever heard, (or matter, 
 eloquence, action, voice, and I am told, of excellent conversation. 
 
 13. Famous fireworks and very chargeable, the King being return'd 
 from his progresse. He stay'd 7 or 8 days at Lord Sunderland's at 
 Althorp, where he was mightily entertain'd. These fireworks were 
 shew'd before Lord Romney, master of the ordnance, in St. James's 
 greate square where the King stood. 
 
 17. I spoke to the Abp. of Canterbury to interest himself for 
 restoring a roome belonging to St. James's Library, where the books 
 want place. 
 
 21. I went to see Mr. Churchill'^ collection of rarities. 
 
 23. I went to Lambeth to get Mr. Williams continued in Boyle's 
 lectures another year. Amongst others who din'd there was Dr. Covel' 
 the greate Oriental traveller. 
 
 1 Dec. I din'd at Lord Sunderland's, now the greate favorite and 
 underhand politician, but not adventuring on any character, being ob- 
 noxious to the people for having twice chang'd his religion. 
 
 23. The Parliament wondrous intent on ways to reform the coin; 
 setting out a proclamation prohibiting the currency of half crowns, &c. 
 which made much confusion among the people. 
 
 25. Hitherto mild, dark, misty weather. Now snow and frost. 
 
 1696. 12 January. Great confusion and distraction by reason of 
 the clipp'd money, and the difficulty found in reforming it. 
 
 2 Feb. An extraordinary wet season, the' temperate as to cold.— 
 
 ' Dr. John Covel, Master of Christ's College Cambridge, Chancellor of York, &c. Ha 
 wrote an Account of the Greek Church, and died in 1722 in his 85th year. 
 
564 A JACOBITE CONSPIRACY; THREATENED LANDING OF FRENCH. 
 
 The Royal Sovereign man of war was burnt at Chatham. It was built 
 in 1637, and having given occasion to the levy of Ship-money was jjer- 
 haps the cause of all the after-troubles to this day. — An Earthquake in 
 Dorsetshire by Portland, or rather a sinking of the ground suddenly 
 for a large space, neere the quarries of stone, hindering the conveyance 
 of that material for the finishing St. Paul's. 
 
 23. They now began to coin new money. 
 
 26 Feb. There was now a Conspiracy of about 30 Knights, Gentle- 
 men, Captains, many of them Irish and English Papists and Nonjurors 
 or Jacobites (so call'd), to murder K. William on the first opportunity 
 of his going either from Kensington or to hunting, or to the Chapel ; 
 and upon signal of fire to be given from Dover Clifif to Calais, an Inva- 
 sion was design'd. In order to it there was a greate army in readi- 
 nesse, men of war, and transports, to join a general insurrection here, 
 the Duke of Berwick having secretly come to London to head them, 
 K. James attending at Calais with the French army. It was discover'd 
 by some of their owne party. ^.1000 reward was offer'd to whoever 
 could apprehend any of the 30 nam'd. Most of those who were engag'd 
 in it were taken and secur'd. The Parliament, Citty, and all the Nation, 
 congratulate the discovery ; and votes and resolutions were pass'd that 
 if K. William should ever be assassinated, it should be reveng'd on the 
 Papists and Party through the nation. An Act of Association drawing 
 up to impower the Parliament to sit on any such accident, till the 
 Crowne should be dispos'd of according to the late Settlement at the 
 Revolution. All Papists in the meane time to be banish'd 10 miles 
 from London. This put the nation into an incredible disturbance and 
 generall animosity against the French King and King James. The 
 Militia of the nation was rais'd, severall regiments weie sent for out of 
 Flanders, and all things put in a posture to encounter a descent. This 
 was so tira'd by the enemy, that whilst we were already much discon- 
 tented on the greatnesse of the taxes, and corruption of the money, &c. 
 we had like to have had very few men of war neere our coasts ; but so it 
 pleas'd God that Admiral Rooke wanting a wind to pursue his voyage 
 to the Straits, that squadron, with others at Portsmouth and other 
 places, were still in the Channell, and were soon brought up to join 
 with the rest of the ships which could be got together, so that there is 
 hope this plot may be broken. I look on it as a very greate deliverance 
 and prevention by the Providence of God. Tho' many did formerly 
 pity King James's condition, this designe of assassination and bringing 
 over a French army, alienated many of his friends, and was like to 
 produce a more perfect establishment of King William. 
 
 I Mar. The wind continuing N. and E. all this weeke, brought so 
 many of our men of war together, that tho' most of the French finding 
 their designe detected and prevented, made a shift to get into Calais 
 and Dimkirk ro-'xds, we wanting fire ships and bombs to disturb them ; 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 565 
 
 yec they were so engag'd among the sands and flats, that 'tis said they 
 cut their masts and flung their greate guns overboard to lighten their 
 vessells. We are yet upon them. This deliverance is due solely to 
 God. The French were to have invaded at once England, Scotland 
 and Ireland. 
 
 8. Divers of the Conspirators tried and condemn'd. 
 
 Vesuvius breaking out terrified Naples. 
 
 Three of the unhappy wretches, whereof one was a Priest, were exe- 
 cuted ' for intending to assassinate the King ; they acknowledg'd their 
 intention, but acquitted K. James of inciting them to it, and died very 
 penitent. Divers more in danger, and some very considerable persons. 
 
 Great frost and cold. 
 
 6 April. I visited Mr. Graham in the Fleete. 
 
 10. The quarters of Sir William Perkms and Sir John Friend, lately 
 executed on the Plot, with Perkins's head, were set up at Temple Bar ; 
 a dismal sight, which many pitied. I think there never was such at 
 Temple Bar till now, except once in the time of K. Cha. II. viz. of Sir 
 Tho. Armstrong ^ 
 
 Greate offence taken at the 3 ministers ' who absolv'd Sir William 
 Perkins and Friend at Tyburn. One of them (Snatt) was a son of my 
 old schoolmaster. This produc'd much altercation as to the canoni- 
 calness of the action. 
 
 21. We had a meeting at Guildhall of the Grand Committee about 
 settling the draught of Greenwich Hospital. 
 
 23. I went to Eton, and din'd with Dr. Godolphin, the Provost. 
 The schoolmaster assur'd me there had not been for 20 years a more 
 pregnant youth in that place than my Grandson. — 1 went to see the 
 Kitig's house at Kensington. It is very noble, tho' not greate. The 
 galler)' furnish'd with the best pictures [from] all the houses, of Titian, 
 Raphael, Corregio, Holbein, Julio Romano, Bassan, Vandyke, Tin- 
 toret and others ; a greate collection of Porcelain ; and a pretty private 
 library. The gardens about it very delicious. 
 
 26 April. Dr. Sharp preached at the Temple. His prayer before 
 the sermon was one of the most excellent compositions I ever heard. 
 
 28. The Venetian Ambassador made a stately entry, with 50 foot- 
 men, many on horseback, 4 rich coaches, and a numerous train of gal- 
 lants. — More executions thisweekeof the assassins. — Gates dedicated 
 a most villainous revihng book against K. James, which he presum'd 
 to present K. William, who could not but abhor it, speaking so infa- 
 mously and untruly of his late beloved Queene's own father. 
 
 2 May. I din'd at Lambeth, being summon'd to meete my co- 
 trustees, the Abp., Sir Hen. Ashurst, and Mr. Serjeant Rotheram, to 
 
 ' Robert Charnock, Edward King, and Thomas Keys. 
 
 ! He was concerned in the Rye House Plot, Bed into Holland, was given up and executed 
 ia his own country, 1684. 
 
 t Mr. Collier, Mr. Snatt, and Mr. Cook, all nonjuring clergymea. 
 
566 SIR CHRISTOPHER WREN AND GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 
 
 consult about settling Mr. Boyle's lecture for a perpetuity ; which wc 
 concluded upon, by buying a rent-charge of £.S0 per ann. with the 
 stock in our hands. 
 
 6. I went to Lambeth to meete at dinner the Countess of Sunder- 
 land and divers ladies. We din'd in the Abp's wife's apartment with 
 his Grace, and staid late ; yet I return'd to Deptford at night. 
 
 13 May. I went to London to meet my Son, newly come from Ire- 
 land indispos'd. — Money still continuing exceeding scarce, so that none 
 was paid or receiv'd, but all was on trust, the Mint not supplying for 
 common necessities. The association with an oath requir'd of all 
 Lawyers and Officers, on pain of Premunire, whereby men were oblig'd 
 to renounce King James as no rightfull King, and to revenge K. Wil- 
 liam's death if happening by assassination. This to be taken by all 
 the Council by a day limited, so that the Courts of Chancery and King's 
 Bench hardly heard any cause in Eastern Term, so many crowded to 
 take the oath. This was censur'd as a very intangling contrivance of 
 the Parliament in expectation that many in high office would lay down, 
 and others surrender. Many gentleman taken up on suspicion of the 
 late plot, were now discharged out of prison. 
 
 29. We settled divers officers and other matters relating to work- 
 men for the beginning of Greenwich Hospital. 
 
 I June. I went to Deptford to dispose of our goods in order to 
 letting the house for three years to Vice Admiral Benbow, with con- 
 dition to keepe up the garden. This was done soon after. 
 
 4. A Committee met at Whitehall about Greenwich Hospital, at 
 Sir Christopher Wren's, his Majesty's Surveyor General. We made 
 the first agreement with divers workmen, and for materials ; and gave 
 the first order for proceeding on the foundation, and for weekly pay- 
 ments to the workmen, and a generall account to be monthly. 
 
 II. Din'd at Lord Pembroke's, Lord Privy Seal, a very worthy gen- 
 tleman. He shew'd me divers rare Pictures of very many of the old 
 and best masters, especialy one of M. Angelo of a man gathering fruit 
 to give to a woman, and a large book of the best drawings of the old 
 masters. — Sir J. Fenwick, one of the conspirators was taken.^ — Create 
 subscriptions in Scotland to their East India Company. — Want of cur- 
 rent money to carry on the smallest concerns, even for daily provisions 
 in the markets. Guineas lower'd to 22 shillings, and great sums dailj- 
 transported to Holland where it yields more, with other treasure sent to 
 pay the armies, and nothing considerable coin'd of the new and now 
 onely current stamp, cause such a scarcity that tumults are every day 
 fear'd, no body paying or receiving money ; so imprudent was the late 
 Parliament, to condemn the old, tho' dipt, and corrupted, till they had 
 provided supplies. To this add the fraud of the bankers and gold- 
 
 > He was taken at a house by the side of the road from Great Bookham to Stoke DaberaoQ 
 in Surrey, near Slyfield mill, as I was told by the great grandson of Mr. Evelyn. — W. B. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 567 
 
 smiths, who having gotten immense riches by extortion, keepe up their 
 treasure in expectation of enhancing its value. Duncomb not long 
 since a mean goldsmith, having made a purchase of the late Duke of 
 Buckingham's estate' at neere ;^9o,ooo, and reputed to have neere as 
 much in cash. Banks and Lotteries every day set up. 
 
 18. The famous trial betweene my Lord ISath and Lord Montagu 
 for an estate of ^11,000 a year, left by the Duke of Albermarle, wherein 
 on severall trials have been spent £%o,qoo between them. The E. of 
 Bath was cast on evident forgery. 
 
 20. I made my Lord Cheney a visit at Chelsea, and saw those 
 ingenious water-works invented by Mr. Winstanley,''' wherein were 
 some things very surprizing and extraordinary. 
 
 21. An exceeding rainy, cold, unseasonable Summer, yet the citty 
 was very healthy. 
 
 25. A trial in the Common Pleas between the Lady Purbeck Tem- 
 ple and Mr. Temple, a nephew of Sir Purbeck, concerning a deed set 
 up to take place of several! wills. This deed was prov'd to be forg'd. 
 The cause went on my lady's side. This concerning my son-in-law 
 Draper, I staid almost all day at Court. A greate supper was given 
 to the Jury, being persons of the best condition in Buckinghamshire. 
 
 30 June. I went with a select Committee of the Commissioners for 
 Greenwich Hospital, and with Sir Christopher Wren, where with him J 
 laid the first stone of the intended foundation, precisely at 5 o'clock in 
 the evening, after we had din'd together. Mr. Flamstead, the K.'s 
 astronomical Professor, observing the punctual time by instruments. 
 
 4 July. Note that my Lord Godolphin was the first of the subscri- 
 bers who paid any money to this noble fabric.^ 
 
 7. A Northern wind altering the weather with a continual and 
 impetuous raine of 3 days and nights, chang'd it into perfect Winter. 
 
 * At Helmsley in Yorkshire. 
 
 " AndHelinsley, once proud Buckingham's delight. 
 Slides to a Scrivener or a City Knight." — Pope. 
 2 Mr. Winstanley was the ingenious architect who built the Eddystone light house, and 
 perished in it when blown down by the great storm in 1703. 
 
 3 SUBSCRIPTIONS TO GREENWICH HOSPITAL, 
 /rotn Mr Evelyn's Papers, 
 £. s. i. _ £ ,. d. 
 
 The King sooo 
 
 Abp. Canterbury 500 
 
 Lord Keeper Sommers 500 
 
 Duke of Leeds, Pres. of the Council 500 
 E. of Pembroke, Lord Privy Seal Joo 
 
 D. of Devonshire 5°° 
 
 Duke of Shrewsbury 500 
 
 Earl of Romney 200 
 
 E. of Dorset Joo 
 
 Lord Montague 300 
 
 Lord Godolphin >oo 
 
 Mr. Montague, Chan. Excheq. ... 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 Mr. Smith, Ccmmiss. Treasury ... 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lord Ch. Justice Holt 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sir Ste. Fox 
 
 200 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 E. of Ranelagh 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sir John Lowther 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mr. Priestman 
 
 100 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 Sir Geo. Rooke 
 
 100 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 Sir John Houblon 
 
 100 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lord Chief Justice Treby 
 
 100 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 Carried over £ -1,300 
 
 
 
 
 
$68 SUBSCRIPTIONS FOR ERECTION OF GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 
 
 12. Very unseasonable and uncertain weather. 
 
 26. So little money in the nation that Exchequer Tallies, of which 
 I had for ^.2000 on the best fund in England, the Post Office, nobody 
 would take at ■^o per cent, discount. 
 
 3 Aug. The Bank lending the ^200,000 to pay the army in 
 Flanders, that had don nothing against the enemy, had so exhausied 
 the treasure of the nation, that one could not have borrow'd money 
 under 14 or i5p.c. on bills, or on Exchequer Tallies under 30 ^. cent. — 
 Reasonable good harvest weather. — I went to Lambeth and din'd 
 with the Abp. who had ben at Court on the complaint against Dr. Tho- 
 mas Watson, Bp. of St. David's, who was suspended for simony. The 
 Abp. told me how unsatisfied he was with the Canojz Law, and how 
 exceedingly unreasonable all their pleadings appear'd to him. 
 
 Sept. Fine seasonable weather, and a greate harvest after a cold 
 wet Summer. Scarcity in Scotland. 
 
 6. I went to congratulate the marriage of a daughter of Mr. Bos- 
 cawen to the son of Sir Philip Meadows ; she is niece to my Lord Go- 
 dolphin, married at Lambeth by the Abp. 30 August. After above 6 
 months' stay in London about Greenwich Hospital, I return'd to 
 V'otton. 
 
 24 Oct. Unseasonable stormy weather, and an ill-seed time. 
 
 Nov. Lord Godolphin retir'd from the Treasury, who was the first 
 Commissioner and the most skillful manager of all. 
 
 8. The first frost began fiercely, but lasted not long. — More plots 
 talk'd of. Search for Jacobites so call'd. 
 
 15 — 23. Very stormy weather, rain and inundations. 
 
 13 Dec. Continuance of extreme frost and snow. 
 
 1697. Jan. 17. The severe frost and weather relented, but againe 
 
 Brought over ;^7,3oo o 
 
 Sir Wm. Trumball, Pr. Sec. State lOO o 
 
 Sir Robt. Rich lOO o 
 
 Sir Hen Goodrick 50 o 
 
 Col. Austen 100 o 
 
 Sir Tho. Lane 100 o 
 
 Sir Patience Ward 100 o 
 
 SirWm. Ashurst 100 o 
 
 Sir J. Trevor, Master of the Rolls too o 
 
 Mr. Justice Rokeby 50 o 
 
 £.g,o^6 13 4 
 By the committee for the fabrick of Greenwich Hospital, Nov. 4, i6g6. — Expence of the 
 work already done, £iooa and upwards, towards which the Treasurer had not received 
 above ;C8oo, so that they must be obliged to stop the work unless there can be a supply of 
 money both from the tallies that have been assigned for payment of his Majesty's ^2000, and 
 the money subscribed by several noblemen and gentlemen ; the Secretary was ordered to 
 attend Mr. Lowndes, Secretary to the Lords of the Treasury, to move for an order that the 
 tallies may be fixt on such fund as may be ready money, or that the Treasurer of the 
 Hospital may be directed to dispose of them on the best terms he can ; and that the Solicitor 
 with the Treasurer s clerk do attend the noblemen and gentlemen that have suDscribed, to 
 acquamt them herewith. 
 
 
 £. 
 
 s. 
 
 d 
 
 Mr. Justice Powell 
 
 , ... 50 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mr. Justice Eyre 
 
 . ... 50 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lord Ch. Baron Ward ... . 
 
 66 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 Mr. Justice Gregory 
 
 . ... 50 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mr. Baron Powell 
 
 . ... 50 
 
 
 
 
 
 E. of Portland 
 
 . ... 500 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mr. Baron Powis 
 
 . ... 40 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sir Richard Onslow ... . 
 
 . ... 100 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mr. Baron Lechmore ... . 
 
 . ... 40 
 
 
 
 c 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. jgg 
 
 froze with snow.— Conspiracies continue against K. William, Sir I 
 Fenvvick was beheaded. 
 
 7 Feb. Severe frost continued with snow. Souldiers in the armies 
 and garrison towns frozen to death on their posts. 
 (Here a leaf of the MS. is lost.) ' 
 
 17 Aug I came to Wotton after three months absence. 
 
 bept. Very bright weather, but with sharp East wind. My son 
 came from London in his melancholy indisposition. 
 
 I In a letter to Dr Bohun, dated Wotton i8th Jan. 169?, Mr. Evelyn says : 
 tlavmg ben told that you have lately inquired what is become of your now old friends cf 
 v>ayes-l,ourt, the date hereof will acquaint you where they are, and the sequel, much of what 
 •ney ao and think I believe I neede not tell you that after the marriage of my daughter, 
 I h H ^° V °^ "'' ^''°'' '"•°">="^ •'='■=. my then circumstances and times considered, 
 
 1 naa reason to embrace it, not merely out of inclinatioD to the place where I was born and 
 have now an mterest. 
 
 ' Amongst other things I had paid £200 for the renewing of my Lease [at Deptford] with 
 some augmentation of what I hold from the Crowne, which the Duke of Leeds was supplant. 
 
 ™f "= J '"" I ^m "O' '>='■= °" free cost. 
 
 My Lord Godolphin (my ever noble patron and steady friend, now retir'd from a fati- 
 gueing station) got me to be named Treasurer to the Marine Colledge erecting at Greenwich, 
 with the salIaryol.£ 200 ^er a««. of which I have never yet receiv'd one penny of the Tallies 
 assign d for it, now two years at our Lady-day— my son-in-law Draper is my substitute.— I 
 have only had this opportunity to place my old (indeed faithfull) servant J. Str"- in an 
 employment at Greenwich, which with my other businesse, not small, among so many beg- 
 garly tenants as you know I have at Deptford [is some provision for him]. I have let my 
 house to Capt. Benbow, and have the mortification of seeing every day much of my former 
 labours and expense there impairing for want of a more polite tennant. 
 
 ' My grandson is so delighted in books that he professes a library is to him the greatest 
 recreation, so I give him free scope here, where I have neare upon 22,000 [qu. 2000J with 
 my brother's), and whither I would bring the rest had I any roome, which I have not, to my 
 greate regrett, having here so little conversation with the Learn'd, unlesse it be when Mr. 
 Wotton (the learned gentleman before mentioned, the friend of Dr. Bentley) comes now and 
 then to visit me, he being tutor to Mr. Finch's son at Albury, but which he is now leaving to 
 go to his living, that without books, and the best wife and bro. in the world, I were to be 
 pitied; but with these subsidiaries, and the revising some of my old impertinences, to which 
 1 am adding a Discourse I made on Medals (lying by me long before Obadiah Walker's 
 Treatise appear'd), I passe some of my Attic nights, if I may be so vaine as to name themwilli 
 the Author of those Criticisms. For the rest, I am planting an ever-green grove here to an 
 old house ready to drop, theoeconomy and hospitality of which my good old brother will not 
 depart from, but more veieru7n kept a Christmas in which we had not fewer than 300 bumkins 
 every holy-day. 
 
 We have here a very convenient appartment of five roomes together, besides a pretty 
 closet, which we have furnish'd with the spoilcs of Sayes Court, and is the raree-shew of the 
 whole neighbourhood, and in truth we live very easy as to all domestic cares. Wednesday 
 and Saturday nights we call Lecture Nights, when my wife and myselfe take our turnes to 
 read the packets of all the newes sent constantly from London, which serves us for discourse 
 till fresh newes comes ; and so you have the history of a very old man and his no young com- 
 panion, whose society I have enjoy'd more to my satisfaction these three yeares here, than 
 in almost 50 before, but am now every day trussing up to be gon, I hope to a better place. 
 
 ' My daughter Draper being brought to bed in the Christmas holidays of a fine boy, has 
 given an heire to her most deserving husband, a prudent, well-natur'd Gent, a man of busi- 
 nesse, like to be very rich, and deserving to be so, among the happiest paires I think in 
 England, and to my daughter's and our heart's desir. She has also a fine girle, and a mother, 
 in-law exceedingly fond of my daughter, and a most excellent woman, charitable and of a 
 very sweere disposition. They all live together, keepe each their coach, and with as suitable 
 an equipage as any in towne.' 
 
570 BURNET ; BENTLEY ; ST. JAMES" LIBRARY. WHITEHALL BURNT. 
 
 12. Mr. Buncombe the rector came and preach'd after an aDsence 
 of 2 yeares, the' only living 7 or 8 miles off [at Ashted]. — Welcome 
 tidings of the Peace. 
 
 3 Oct. So greate were the storms all this week, that neere a 1000 
 people were lost going into the Texe!. 
 
 Nov. 16. The King's entry very pompous, but in nothing approach- 
 ing that of K. Cha. II. 
 
 2 Dec. Thanksgiving day for the Peace. The King and a greate 
 Court at Whitehall. The Bp. of Salisbury (Burnet) preach'd, or rather 
 made a florid panegyric on 2 Chron. 9. 7, 8.— The evening concluded 
 with fire-works and illuminations of greate expence. 
 
 5. Was the first Sunday that St. Paul's had service perform'd in 
 it since it was burnt in 1666. 
 
 6. I went to Kensington with the Sherif, Knights and cheife gen- 
 tlemen of Surrey, to present their Address to the King. The Duke of 
 Norfolk promis'd to introduce it, but came so late, that it was pre- 
 sented before he came. This insignificant ceremony was brought-in in 
 Cromwell's time, and has ever since continu'd with offers of life and 
 fortune to whoever happen'd to have the power. I din'd at Sir Richard 
 Onslow's, who treated almost all the gentlemen in Surrey. When we 
 had half din'd, the D. of Norfolk came in to make his excuse. 
 
 12. At the Temple Church, it was very long before the service be- 
 gan, staying for the Comptroler of the Inner Temple, where was to be 
 kept a riotous and revelling Christmas according to custom. 
 
 18. At Lambeth, to Dr. Bentley about the Library at St. James's. 
 
 23. I return'd to Wotton. 
 
 1698. A greate Christmas kept at Wotton, open house, much com- 
 pany. I presented my booke of medails, &c. to divers Noblemen, be- 
 fore I expos'd it to sale. 
 
 2 Jan. Dr. Fulham, who lately married my niece, preach'd against 
 Atheism, a very eloquent discourse, somewhat improper formostof the 
 audience [at Wotton], but fitted for some other place, and very appo- 
 site to the profane temper of the age. 
 
 Whitehall burnt, nothing but walls and ruins left. 
 
 30. The imprisonment of the greate banker Duncombe : censur'd 
 by Parliament ; acquitted by the Lords ; sent again to the Tower by 
 the Commons.' 
 
 ' 25 Jan. 1697-8. Charles Duncombe, Esq. M.P. was charged with making false indorse- 
 ments on Exchequer bills, and was committed close prisoner to the Tower. 29. Being ill, 
 his apothecary and his brother Anthony Duncombe were permitted to see him. He confessed 
 his guilt, and was expelled the House. A bill was brought in for seizure of his estate, which 
 was passed 26 Feb. after great opposition, 138 against 103. It was intitled 'An Act for punish- 
 ing C. Duncombe, Esq. for contriving and advising the making false Indorsements of several 
 Bills made forth at Receipt of the Exchequer, commonly called Exchequer Bills.* This being 
 ^ent to the Lords, they desired a conference with the Commons, and not being satisned, though 
 he had acknowledged the fact, they discharged him from the Tower. 
 
 31 March, the Commons re-committed him. We do no* find in the Journals of the House 
 of Conunons, that any thing further was done. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 571 
 
 The Czar of Muscovy being come to England, and having a mind 
 to see the building of ships, hir'd my house at Sayes Court, and made 
 it his Court and Palace, new furnished for him by the King.' 
 
 21 April. The Czar went from my house to return home.— An 
 e.xceeding sharp and cold season. 
 
 8 May. An extraordinary greate snow and frost, nipping the corn 
 and other fruits. Corn at gs. a bushel. [^iS a load.] 
 
 30. I din'dat Mr. Pepys, where I heard the rare voice of Mr. Pule, 
 who was lately come from Italy, reputed the most excellent singer we 
 had ever had. He sung severall compositions of the late Dr. Purcel 
 
 5 June. Dr. White, late Bishop of Norwich, who had been ejected 
 for not complying with Government, was buried in St. Gregory's 
 Churchyard or Vault at St. Paul's. His herse was accompanied by 
 2 other Non-juror Bishops, Dr. Turner of Ely, and Dr. Lloyd, with 
 40 other Nonjuror Clergymen, who would not stay the office of the 
 burial, because the Dean of St. Paul's had appointed a Conlorming 
 Minister to read the office, at which all much wondered, there being 
 nothing in that office which mentioned the present King. 
 
 8 June. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mr. Godolphin with 
 the Earl of Marlborough's daughter. 
 
 9. I went to Deptford to see how miserably the Czar had left my 
 house after 3 months making it his Court. I got Sir Christopher Wren 
 the King's surveyor, and Mr. London his gardener, to go and estimate 
 the repairs, for which they allowed 150/. in their report to the Lords of 
 the Treasury. — I then went to see the foundation of the HaU and 
 Chapel at Greenwich Hospital. 
 
 6 August. I dined with Mr. Pepys, where was Capt. Dampier, who 
 had been a famous Buccaneer, had brought hither the painted Prince 
 Job,2 and printed a relation of his very strange adventure, and his 
 observations. He was now going abroad again by the King's encou- 
 ragement, who furnished a ship of 290 tons. He seemed a more modest 
 man than one would imagine by the relation of the crew he had 
 assorted with. He brought a map of his observations of the course oi 
 the Winds in the South Sea, and assured us that the maps hitherto ex- 
 tant were all false as to the Pacific Sea, which he makes on the South 
 of the Line, that on the North and running by the coast of Peru being 
 extremely tempestuous. 
 
 25 Sept. Dr. Foy came to me to use my interest with Lord Sun- 
 
 J Whilst the Czar was in his house, Mr. Evelyn's servant wites to him : * There is a house 
 full of people, and right nasty. The Czar lies next your Library, and dines in the parlour 
 next your study. He dines at 10 o'clock and 6 at night, is very seldom at home a whole day, 
 very often in the King's Yard, or by water, dressed in several dresses. The King is expected 
 there this day, the best parlour is pretty clean for him to be entertained in. The King pay 
 for all he has.' 
 
 > Giolo, of whom there is a very curious engraved portrait, by Savage ; also a smaller one. 
 fiom the above, which is prefixed to a fabfi ous account of his life. Mr. Evelyn mentions him 
 in bis ' NumismaU.' 
 
572 DEATH, CHARACTER, SERVICES AND FUNERAL OP MY SON. 
 
 derland for his being made Professor of Physic at Oxford, in the King's 
 gift. I went also to the Abp. in his behalf. 
 
 7 Dec. Being one of the Council of the Royal Society, I was named 
 to be of the Committee to wait on our new President, the Lord Chan- 
 oellor Lord Somers, our Secretary Dr. Sloane and Sir R. Southwell 
 last Vice President carrying our book of Statues : the office of the 
 President being read, his Lordship subscribed his name, and took the 
 o^ths according to our Statutes as a Corporation for the improvement 
 of natural knowledge. Then his Lordship made a short compliment 
 concerning the honour the Society had done him, and how ready he 
 would be to promote so noble a design, and come himself among us as 
 often as his attendance on the public would permit ; and so we took 
 our leave. 
 
 18 December. Very warm, but exceeding stormy. 
 
 1699. Jan. My cousin Pierrepoint died. She was daughter to Sir 
 John Evelyn of Wilts, my father's nephew ; she was widow of William 
 Pierrepoint, brother to the Marquiss of Dorchester, and mother to 
 Evelyn Pierrepoint, Earl of Kingston ; a most excellent and prudent lady. 
 
 The House of Commons persist in refusing more than 7000 men to 
 be a standing army, and no strangers to be in the number. This dis- 
 pleased the Court party. Our County member Sir O. Onslow opposed 
 it also, which might reconcile him to the people, who began to suspect 
 him. 
 
 17 Feb. My Grandson went to Oxford with Dr. Mander, the Mas- 
 ter of Baliol College, where he was entered a Fellow Commoner. 
 
 19. A most furious wind, such as has not happened for many years, 
 doing great damage to houses and trees, by the fall of which several 
 persons were killed. 
 
 5 March. The old E. India Company lost their business against the 
 new Company, by 10 votes in Parliament, so many of their friends 
 being absent, going to see a tyger baited by dogs. 
 
 The persecuted Vaudois who were banished out of Savoy were re- 
 ceived by the German Protestant Princes. 
 
 24 March. My only remaining Son died after a tedious languishing 
 sickness, contracted in Ireland and increased here ; to my exceeding 
 grief and affliction, leaving me one Grandson, now at Oxlord, whom I 
 pray God to prosper and be the support of the Wotton family. He 
 was aged 44 years and about 3 months. He had been 6 years one of the 
 Commissioners of the Revenue in Ireland, with great ability and repu- 
 tation. 
 
 26. After an extraordinary storm, there came up the Thames a 
 m/ia/e 56 feet long Such, and a larger ot the Spout kind, was killed 
 there 40 years ago (June 1658). That year died Cromwell, 
 
 30. My deceased Son was buried in the vault at Wotton, according 
 to his desire. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 573 
 
 The Uuke of Devon lost /1900 at a horse-race at Newmarket 
 
 The King preferring his young favorite Earl of Albemarle' to be first 
 Commander of his Guard, the Duke of Ormond laid down his Com- 
 mission. This of the Dutch Lord passing over his head, was exceed- 
 ingly resented by every body. 
 
 April Lord Spencer purchased an incomparable Library ° of . . 
 
 wherein among other rare books were several that 
 
 were printed at the first invention of that wonderful art, as particularly 
 'TuUy's Offices,' &c. There was a Homer and a. Suidas in a very 
 good Greek character and good paper, almost as ancient. This gen- 
 tleman is a very fine scholar, whom from a child I have known. His 
 tutor was one Florival of Geneva. 
 
 29 April. I dined with the Archbishop, but my business was to get 
 him to persuade the King to purchase the late Bishop of Worcester's 
 Library, and build a place for his own Library at St. James's, in the 
 Park, the present one being too small. 
 
 3 May. At a meeting of the Royal Society I was nominated to be 
 of the Committee to wait on the Lord Chancellor to move the King 
 to purchase the Bp. of Worcester's Library (Dr. Edward Stillingfleet.) 
 
 4. The Court party have little influence in this Session. 
 7. The Duke of Ormond restored to his Commission. — All Lotte- 
 ries, till now cheating the people, to be no longer permitted than to 
 Christmas, except that for the benefit of Greenwich Hospital. Mr. 
 Bridgman, chairman of the Committee for that charitable work, died ; 
 a great loss to it. He was Clerk of the Couucil, a very industrious 
 useful man. I saw the library of Dr. John Moore ^ Bp. of Norwich, 
 one of the best and most ample collection of all sorts of good bookes 
 in England, and he, one of the most learned men. 
 
 II June. After a long drowth we had a refreshing shower. The 
 day before there was a dreadfuU fire at Rotherhithe, neere the Thames 
 side, which burnt divers ships, and consum'd neere 300 houses. — Now 
 died the famous Dutchess of Mazarine, she had ben the richest lady in 
 Europe. She was niece of Cardinal Mazarine, and was married to the 
 richest subject in Europe, as is said. She was born at Rome, educated 
 in France, and was an extraordinary beauty and wit, but dissolute and 
 impatient oi matrimonial restraint, so as to be abandon'd by her hus- 
 band, and banish'd, when she came into England for shelter, liv'd on a 
 
 ' Arnold Joost Van Keppel, created Earl of Albemarle, Viscount Bury, &c. in Feb. 1695-6, 
 K.G. 1700, died in 1718, at the Hague, ^t. 48. 
 
 " The foundation of the noble Library now at Blenheim. 
 
 » Afterwards Bishop of Ely. He died 11 July, 1714. King George the First purchased 
 this Library after the Bishop's death, for .£6000, and presented it to the University of 
 Cambridge, where it now is. This gift occasioned two most witty Epigrams on the 
 aniversities of Oxford and Cambridge ; a Troop of horse being at this time sent to the 
 former holding high Tory opinions ; the Books to the latter holding those of the Whigs and 
 strong attachment to the Hanoxer Camily. They may be seen in Noble's Continuation of 
 Granger. 
 
574 DEATH OF MY BROTHER OF WOITON. 
 
 pension given her here, and is reported to have hasten'd her death by 
 intemperate drinking strong spirits. She has written her own story 
 and adventures, and so has her other extravagant sister, wife to the 
 noble family of Colonna. 
 
 15. This week died Conyers Seymour, son of Sir Edw. Seymour, 
 kill'd in a duel caus'd by a slight affront in St. James's Park, given him 
 by one who was envious of his gallantries, for he was a vain foppish 
 young man, who made a greate eclat about town by his splendid 
 equipage and boundless expence. He was about 23 yeares old ; his 
 brother, now at Oxford, inherited an estate of £.yooo a year, which 
 had fallen to him not 2 yeares before. 
 
 19 June. My cousin Geo. Evelyn of Nutfield died suddenly. 
 
 25. The heat has ben so great almost all this month, that I do not 
 remember to have felt much greater in Italy, and this after a Winter the 
 wettest, tho' not the coldest, that I remember for 50 yeares last past. 
 
 28. Finding my occasions called me so often to London, I took the 
 remainder of the lease my Son had in a house in Dover Street, to 
 which I now remov'd, not taking my goods from Wotton. 
 
 23 July. Seasonable showers after a continuance of excessive drowth 
 and heat. 
 
 Aug. I drank the Shooters Hill waters. At Deptford they had 
 ben building a pretty new Church. — The Bishop of St. David's [Wat- 
 son] depriv'd for si7nony. — The city of Moscow burnt by the throwing 
 of squibs. 
 
 3 Sept. There was in this weeke an eclipse of the sun, at which 
 many were frighten'd by the predictions of the astrologers. I remember 
 50 yeares ago that many were so terrified by Lilly that they durst not 
 go out of their houses. — A strange Earthquake at New Batavia in the 
 East Indies. 
 
 4 Oct. My worthy Brother died at Wotton in the 83rd year of his 
 age, of perfect memory and understanding. He was religious, sober, 
 and temperate, and of so hospitable a nature, that no family in the 
 county maintain'd that ancient custom of keeping, as it were, open 
 house the whole yeare in the same manner, or gave more noble or free 
 entertainment to the county on all occasions, so that his house was 
 never free. There were sometimes 20 persons more than his family, 
 and some that staid there all the Summer, to his no small expence ; by 
 this he gain'd the universal love of the county. He was born at Wot- 
 ton, went from the free school at Guildford to Trinity Coll. Oxford, 
 thence to the Middle Temple, as gentlemen of the best quahty did, but 
 without intention to study the law as a profession. He married the 
 daughter of Colwall, of a worthy and ancient family in Leicestershire, 
 by whom he had one son ; she dying in 1643, left Geo. her son, an 
 infant, who being educated liberally, after travelling abroad ' return'd 
 
 > Mr, Evelyn, 30 Mar. 1664, in a letter to his nephew George Evelyn, then on his travell in 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. rys 
 
 and married one Mrs. Gore, by whom he had several children, but only 
 three daughters surviv'd : he was a young man of good understanding 
 but over mdulging his ease and pleasure, grew so very corpulent, con- 
 trary to the constitution of the rest of his father's relations, that he 
 died. My Brother afterwards married a noble and honourable lady, 
 rehct of Sir John Cotton, she being an Offley, a worthy and ancient 
 Staffordshire family, by whom he had several children of both sexes. 
 This lady died leaving only two daughters and a son. The younger 
 daughter died before marriage ; the other afterwards married Sir Cyril 
 Wych, a noble and learned gentleman (son of Sir ... . Wych), 
 who had ben Ambassador at Constantinople, and was afterwards made 
 one of the Lords Justices of Iceland. Before this marriage, her only 
 
 brother married the daughter of Eversfield of Sussex, of an 
 
 honourable family, but left a widow without any child living : he died 
 about 1 69 1, and his wife not many yeares after, and my Brother re- 
 settled the whole estate on me. His sister Wych had a portion of 
 ;£6ooo, to which was added about ;{;30o more ; the three other daugh- 
 ters, with what I added, had about ^{^5000 each. My Brother died on 
 5 Oct. in a good old age and greate reputation, making his beloved 
 daughter Lady Wych sole Executrix, leaving me only his library and 
 some pictures of my father, mother, &c. She buried him with extra- 
 ordinary solemnity, rather as a nobleman than as a private gentleman, 
 There were, as I computed, above 2000 persons at the funerall, all the 
 gentlemen of the county doing him the last honours. I returned to 
 London, till my lady should dispose of herselfe and family. 
 
 21 October. After an unusual warm and pleasant season, we were 
 surpriz'd with a very sharp frost.— I presented my Acetaria dedicated 
 to my Lord Chancellor, who return'd me thanks in an extraordinary 
 civil letter. 
 
 25 Nov. There happen'd this weeke so thick a mist and fog that 
 people lost their way in the streetes, it being so intense that no light of 
 candles or torches yielded any (or but very little) direction. I was in 
 it and in danger. Robberies were committed between the very lights 
 which were fix'd between London and Kensington on both sides, and 
 whilst coaches and travellers were passing. It began about four 
 in the afternoone, and was quite gon by eight, without any wind to 
 disperse it. At the Thames they beat drums to direct the wAermen,, 
 to make the shore. 
 
 19 Nov. At our Chapell in the evening there was a sermon preach'd 
 by young Mr. Horneck, chaplain to Lord Guildford, whose lady's 
 
 Italy, tells him that his father complained of his expences, as much exceeding those of his 
 own, which were known to the young gentleman's father, as all the money passed through his 
 hands. He says that when he travelled he kept a servant, sometimes two, entertained 
 several masters, and made no inconsiderable collection of curiosities, all within ;^3oo 
 fier anti. — He desires seeds of the ilex, phyllera, mirtle, jessamine, which he says are rare 
 ia England. 
 
576 KIDD, THE ARCH PIRATE. SCOTCH BOOK ON DARIEN BURNT. 
 
 funeral had been celebrated magnificently the Thursday before. A 
 panegyric was now pronounc'd, describing the extraordinary piety and 
 excellently imploy'd life of this amiable young lady. She died in child- 
 bed a few days before, to the excessive sorrow of her husband, who 
 order'd the preacher to declare that it was on her exemplary life, 
 exhortations and persuasions, that he totally chang'd the course of his 
 life, which was before in greate danger of being perverted, following 
 the mode of this dissolute age. Her devotion, early piety, charity, fast- 
 ings, ceconomy, disposition of her time in reading, praying, recollections 
 in her own hand-writing of what she heard and read, and her conversa- 
 tion, were most exemplary. 
 
 24 November. I sign'd Dr. Blackwall's election to be the next 
 yeares Boyle's Lecturer. 
 
 Such horrible robberies and murders were committed, as had not ben 
 known in this nation ; atheism, profaneness, blasphemy, amongst all 
 sorts, portended some judgment if not amended, on which a Society 
 was set on foot, who oblig'd themselves to endeavour the reforming of 
 it, in London and other places, and began to punish offenders and put 
 the laws in more strict execution, which God Almighty prosper. — A 
 gentle, calm, dry, temperate weather all this season of the yeare, but 
 now came sharp, hard frost, and mist, but calm. 
 
 3 December. Calm, bright, and warm as in the middle of April. So 
 continu'd on 21 January.— A great earthquake in Portugal. 
 
 The Parliament reverse the prodigious donations of the Irish for- 
 feitures, which were intended to be set apart for discharging the vast 
 national debt. They call'd some greate persons in the highest offices 
 in question for setting the Greate Scale to the pardon of an arch pirate 
 who had turn'd pirate againe, and brought prizes into the West Indies, 
 suspected to be conniv'd at on sharing the prey ; but the prevailing 
 part in the House csill'd Courtiers, out-voted the complaints, not by 
 being more in number, but by the country party being negligent in 
 attendance. 
 
 1700. 14 Jan. Dr. Lancaster, Vicar of St. Martin's, dismiss'd Mr. 
 Stringfellow, who had ben made the first preacher at our Chapell by 
 the Bishop of Lincoln [Dr. Tenison, now Archbp.] whilst he held St. 
 Martin's by dispensation, and put in one Mr. Sandys, much against 
 the inclination of those who frequented the ChapeL — The Scotch book 
 about Darien was burnt by the hangman by vote of Parliament.' 
 
 25. I went to Wotton the first time after my brother's funerall, to 
 furnish the house with necessaries, Lady Wych and my nephew Glan- 
 
 1 Captain Kidd ; he was hanged about two years afterwards with some of his accomplices. 
 This was one of the charges brought by the Commons against Lord Somers. 
 
 ^ The volume alluded to was 'An Enquiry into the causes of the Miscarriage of the Scots 
 Colony at Darien : Or an Answer to a Libel, entituled, A Defence of the Scots abdicaticg 
 Darien ' See Votes of the House of Commons, iS January, 1699-1700- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 577 
 
 ville the executors having sold and dispos'd of what goods were there 
 of my brother's. — The weather was now altering into sharp and 
 hard frost. 
 
 One Stephens' who preach'd before the House of Commons on K. 
 Charles's martyrdom, told them that the observation of that day was 
 not intended out of any detestation of his murder, but to be a lesson 
 to other Kings and Rulers, how they ought to behave themselves to- 
 wards their subjects, lest they should come to the same end. This was 
 so resented that tho' it was usual to desire these anniversary sermons 
 to be printed, they refus'd thanks to him, and order'd that in mture no 
 one should preach before them who was not either a Dean or a Doctor 
 of Divinity. 
 
 4 Feb. The Parliament voted against the Scots settling in Darien 
 as being prejudicial to our trade with Spain. They also voted that the 
 exorbitant number of Attornies be lessen'd (now indeede swarming, and 
 evidently causing law-suits and disturbance, eating out the estates of 
 people, provoking them to go to law). — Died the Duke of Beautort, a 
 person of greate honour, prudence and estate. 
 
 18. Mild and calm season, with gentle frost, and little misling rain 
 The Vicar of St. Martin's frequently preach'd at Trinity Chapel in the 
 aftemoone. 
 
 8. The season was like April for warmth and mildnesse. — 1 1. On 
 Wednesday was a sermon at our Chapell, to be continu'd during Lent. 
 
 13. I was at the tunerall of my Lady Temple, who was buried at 
 Islington, brought from Adscomb neere Croydon. She left my son-in- 
 law Draper (her nephew) the mansion house of Adscomb, very nobly 
 and completely furnish'd, with the estate about it, with plate and 
 jewels, to the value in all of about ^.20,000. She was a very prudent 
 lady, gave many greate legacies, with ^.500 to the poore of Islington, 
 where her husband Sir Purbeck Temple was buried, both dying with- 
 out issue. 
 
 24 March. The season warm, gentle and exceeding pleasant.— 
 Divers persons ol quality enter'd into the Society for reformation of 
 Manners ; and some Lectures were set up, particularly in the City of 
 London. The most eminent of the Clerg)- preach'd at Bow Church, 
 after reading a Declaration set forth by the King to suppresse the 
 growing wickednesse ; this began already to take some effect, as to 
 common swearing, and oathes in the mouths of people of all 
 ranks. 
 
 25. Dr. Burnet preach'd to-day before the Lord Mayor and a very 
 greate congregation on 27 Proverbs v. 5 and 6. ' Open rebuke is 
 better than secret love ; the wounds of a friend are better than the 
 
 1 William Stephens, rector of Sutton in Surrey. After the censure of his sermon by the 
 House of Commons, he published it as in defiance. See more of this and of him in Manning 
 and Bray's Hist, of Surrey. II. 487. 
 
 37 
 
578 PARLIAMENTARY COMMISSION ON TORFEITED ESTATES. 
 
 kisses of an enemy.' He made a very pathetic discourse concerning 
 the necessity and advantage of friendly correction. 
 
 April. The Duke of Norfolk now succeeded in obtaining a divorce 
 from his wife by the Parliament for adultery with Sir John Germaine, 
 a Dutch gamester of mean extraction, who had got much by gaming ; 
 the Duke had leave to marry againe, so that if he should have children, 
 the Dukedom will go from the late Lord Thomas's children, Papists 
 indeede, but very hopefull and virtuous gentlemen, as was their father. 
 The now Duke their uncle is a Protestant. 
 
 The Parliament nominated 14 persons to go into Ireland as Com- 
 missioners to dispose of the forfeited estates there, towards payment 
 of the debts incurr'd by the late war, but which the King had in greate 
 measure given to some of his favourites of both sexes, Dutch and 
 others of little merit, and very unseasonably. That this might be don 
 without suspicion of interest in the Parliament, it was ordered that 
 no member of either House should be in the Commission. — The greate 
 contest betweene the Lords and Commons concerning the Lords power 
 of amendments and rejecting bills tack'd to the money bill, carried for 
 the Commons. However this tacking of bills is a novel practice, 
 suffer'd by K. Cha. IL who being continually in want of money, let 
 any thing pass rather than not have wherewith to feed his extravagance. 
 This was carried but by one voice in the Lords, all the Bishops follow- 
 ing the Court, save one ; so that neere 60 bills pass'd, to the greate 
 triumph of the Commons and country party, but high regret of the 
 Court, and those to whom the King had given large estates in 
 Ireland. Pity it is that things should be brought to this extremity, the 
 government of this nation being so equally poiz'd between King and 
 Subject, but we are satisfied with nothing, and whilst there is no per- 
 fection on this side Heaven, methinks both might be contented with- 
 out straining things too far. — Amongst the rest there pass'd a law as 
 to Papists estates, that if one turn'd not Protestant before 18 yeares 
 of age, it should passe to his next Protestant heire. This indeede 
 seem'd a hard law, but not only the usage of the French King to his 
 Protestant subjects, but the indiscreete insolence ot the Papists here, 
 going in triumphant and public processions with their Bishops, with 
 banners and trumpets in divers places (as is said) in the Northern 
 counties, has brought it on their party. 
 
 24 April. This weeke there was a greate change of State Officers. — 
 The Duke of Shrewsbury resign'd his Lord Chamberlainship to the 
 Earl of Jersey, the Duke's indisposition requiring his retreat. Mr. 
 Vernon, Secretary of State, was put out. — The Seale was taken from 
 the Lord Chancellor Somers, tho' he had ben acquitted by a greate 
 majority of votes for what was charg'd against him in the House of 
 Commons. This being in term time put some stop to business, many 
 eminent lawyers refusing to accept the ofSce, considering the uncer- 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 579 
 
 taiiity of things in this fluctuating conjuncture. It is certaine that this 
 Chancellor was a most excellent lawyer, very learned in all polite lite- 
 rature, a superior pen, master of a handsome style, and of easy con- 
 versation ; but he is said to make too much haste to be rich, as his pre- 
 decessor, and most in place in this age did, to a more prodigious ex- 
 cesse than was ever known. But the Commons had now so mortified 
 the Court party, and property and liberty were so much invaded in all 
 the neighbouring kingdoms, that their jealousy made them cautious, and 
 every day strengthen'd the law which protected the people from tyranny. 
 
 A most glorious Spring, with hope of abundance of fruite of ail 
 kinds, and a propitious yeare. 
 
 10 May. The greate trial between Sir Walter Clarges and Mr. 
 Sherwin concerning the legitimacy of the late Duke ol Albermarle, on 
 which depended an estate of .£1500 a year ; the verdict was given for 
 Sir Walter.— 19. Serjeant Wright ' at last accepted the Greate Scale. 
 
 24. I went from Dover street to Wotton for the rest of the Sum- 
 mer, and remov'd thither the rest of my goods from Sayes Court. 
 
 2 June. A sweete season, with a mixture of refreshing showers. 
 
 9 — 16. In-the afternoone our Clergyman had a Catechism, which 
 was continu'd for some time. 
 
 July. I was visited with illness, but it pleas'd God that I recover'd, 
 for which praise be ascrib'd to Him by me, and that He has again so 
 graciously advertiz'd me of my duty to prepare for my latter end,, 
 which at my greate age cannot be far off. 
 
 The Duke of Gloucester, son of the Princess Anne of Denmark, 
 died of the small pox. 
 
 13. 1 went to Marden, which was originally a barren warren bought 
 by Sir Robert Clayton, who built there a pretty house, and made such 
 alteration by planting not only an infinite store of the best fruite, but 
 so chang'd the natural situation of the hill, valleys and solitary moun- 
 tains about it, that it rather represented some foreign country which 
 would produce spontaneously pines, firs, cypress, yew, holly, and 
 juniper ; they were come to their perfect growth, with walks, mazes, 
 &c. amongst them, and were preserVd with the utmost care, so that I 
 who had seen it some yeares before in its naked and barren condition, 
 was in admiration of it. The land was bought of Sir John Evelyn of 
 Godstone, and was thus improv'd for pleasure and retirement by the 
 vast charge and industry of this opulent citizen. He and his lady re- 
 ceiv'd us with greate civility.— The tombs in the Church at Croydon of 
 Abps. Grindal, Whitgrift and other Abps. are fine and venerable, but 
 none comparable to that of the late Abp. Sheldon, which being all of 
 white marble, and of a stately ordnance and carvings, far surpass'd 
 the rest, and I judge could not cost lesse than 7 or ;£8oo. 
 
 20 Sept. I went to Beddington, the ancient seate of the Carews, in 
 
 ' Six Nathan Wrighte, appointed Lord Keeper, 
 
580 VISIT MR. PEPYS AT CLAPHAM. ILLNESS OF MY GRANDSON. 
 
 my remembrance a noble old structure, capacious, and in form of the 
 buildings of the age of Hen. VIII. and Qu. Eliz. and proper for the old 
 English hospitality, but now decaying with the house itselfe, heretofore 
 adorn'd with ample gardens, and the first orange trees' that had ben 
 seen in England, planted in the open ground, and secur'd in Winter 
 onely by a tabernacle of boards and stoves removable in Summer, 
 that standing 120 yeares, large and goodly trees, and laden with fruite, 
 were now in decay, as well as the Grotto, fountaines, cabinets and other 
 curiosities in the house and abroad, it being now fallen to a child under 
 age, and only kept by a servant or two from utter dilapidation. The 
 estate and park about it also in decay. 
 
 23. I went to visite Mr. Pepys at Clapham where he has a very 
 noble and wonderfully well furnish'd house, especially with India and 
 Chinese curiosities. The offices and gardens well accommodated for 
 pleasure and retirement. 
 
 31 Oct. My birth day now compleated the 80th year of my age. I 
 with my soul render thanks to God, who, of his infinite mercy, not 
 onely brought me out of many troubles, but this yeare restor'd me to 
 health, after an ague and other infirmities of so greate an age, my 
 sight, hearing and other senses and faculties tolerable, which I implore 
 him to continue, with the pardon of my sins past, and grace to acknow- 
 ledge by my improvement of his goodnesse the ensuing yeare, if it be 
 his pleasure to protract my life, that I may be the better prepar'd for 
 my last day, thro' the infinite merits of my blessed Saviour, the Lord 
 Jesus, Amen. 
 
 5 Nov. Came the news of my deare Grandson (the only male of my 
 family now remaining) being fallen ill of the small-pox at Oxford, which 
 after the dire effects of it in ray family, exceedingly afflicted me, but so 
 it pleas'd my most mercifuU God that being let blood at his first com- 
 plaint, and by the extraordinary care of Dr. Mander (head of the Col- 
 lege and now Vice Chancellor), who caused him to be brought and 
 -lodg'd in his own bed and bed-chamber, with the advice of his phy- 
 sician and care of his tutor, there were all faire hopes of his recovery, 
 to our infinite comfort. We had a letter every day either from the Vice- 
 Chancellor himselfe or his tutor. — 17. Assurance of his recovery by a 
 letter from himselfe. 
 
 There was a change of Greate Officers at Court. Lord Godolphin 
 return'd to his former station of first Commissioner of the Treasury ; 
 'Sir Cha. Hedges Secretary of State. 
 
 30 Nov. At the Royal Society, Lord Somers, the late Chancellor, 
 was continu'd President. 
 
 8 Dec. Greate alterations of Officers at Court and elsewhere — Lord 
 Cheif Justice Treby died ; he was a learned man in his profession, of 
 
 ' Oranges were eaten in this kingdom in the time of K. James I. if not earlier, as appears by 
 the accounts of a Student in the Temple, which the Editor has seen. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 58B 
 
 which we have now few, never fewer ; the Chancery requiring so kittle 
 skill m deep law learning, if the practiser can talk eloquently in that 
 Court, so that probably few care to study the law to any purpose.— 
 Lord Marlborough Master of the Ordnance, in place of Lord Romney 
 made Groom of the Stole. The Earl of Rochester goes Lord Lieu- 
 tenant to Ireland. 
 
 1701. Jan. I finished the sale of North Stoake in Sussex to Robert 
 Michell, Esq. appointed by my brother to be sold tor payment of por- 
 tions to my nieces, and other incumbrances on the estate. 
 
 4. An exceeding deepe snow and melted away as suddenly. 
 
 19. Severe frost, and such a tempest as threw down many chimnies, 
 and did greate spoile at sea, and blew down above twenty trees of mine 
 at Wotton. 
 
 9. The old Speaker laid aside, and Mr. Harley, an able gentleman, 
 chosen. Our countryman Sir Richard Onslow, had a party for him. 
 
 27. By an order of the House of Commons, I laid before the Speaker 
 the state of what had ben receiv'd and paid towards the building of 
 Greenwich Hospital \ 
 
 Mr. Wye, rector of Wotton, died, a very worthy good man. I gave 
 it to Dr. Bohun, a learned person and excellent preacher, who had ben 
 my son's tutor, and liv'd long in my family. 
 
 l8 March. I lett Sayes Court to Lord Carmarthen, son to the Duke 
 of Leeds.— 28. I went to the funeral of my sister Draper ', who was 
 buried at Edmonton in greate state. Dr. Davenant displeas'd the 
 Clergy now met in Convocation by a passage in his book, p. 40=". 
 
 ' John Evelyn, Esq. Dr. to Geeenwich Hospital. Per Contra Creditor. 
 Received in the year /- _ j t^ . , 
 
 1696 
 1697 
 
 1699 
 1700 
 1701, June 16 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 3,416 o o 
 
 6,836 16 3 
 
 14,967 8 4 
 
 14,024 13 4 
 
 19,241 I 3 
 
 10,834 2 3 
 
 By the Accompt i 
 i6g6 
 1697 
 1698 
 1699 
 1700 
 1701 
 Remaine in Cash 
 
 £ «. d. 
 
 S.91S 18 1 
 
 8,971 10 4 
 
 ",585 15 r 
 
 19,614 9 8 
 
 18,013 8 S 
 
 3,000 o o 
 
 219 I 4 
 
 69,320 3 
 69,320 3 
 
 69,320 I 5 
 Remaine in Lottery Tickets to be paid in ten years ;^ii,434 
 More in Malt Tickets . , ... 1,000 
 
 69,320 
 
 ".432 
 
 In all . . • . • . Si, 752 
 Beside his Majesty . , , . 6,000 and Subscriptiona, 
 
 * Mother of the gentleman who married Mr. Evelyn's daughter. 
 
 a Cha. Davenant, LL.D. (son of Sir William). The Book was ' Essays upon the Ballance 
 of Power,' in which he says that many of those lately in play, have used their utmost endea- 
 vours to discountenance all revealed Religion. ' Are not many of us able to point to several 
 persons, whom nothing has recommended to places of the highest trust, and often to rich 
 benefices and dignities, but the open enmity which they have, almost from their cradles, pro- 
 fessed to the Divinity of Christ ? ' The Convocation on reading the book, ordered papers to 
 be fixed on several doors in Westminster Abbey, inviting the author, whoever he be, or any 
 one of the many, to point out these persons^ that they may be proceeded against, Eiog. BriL 
 last edit. 
 
582 THE DUTCH BOY. TRIAL OF LORD SOMERS. LORD GALWAY. 
 
 April. A 'Dutch boy of about 8 or 9 years old was carried about by 
 his parents to shevve, who had about the iris of one eye, the letters of 
 Deus jneits, and of the other Elohim in the Hebrew character. How 
 this was don by artifice none coald imagine ; his parents affirming that 
 he was so born. It did not prejudice his sight, and he seem'd to be a 
 lively playing boy. Every body went to see him ; physicians and phi- 
 losophers examin'd it with greate accuracy, some considered it as arti- 
 ficial, others as almost supernatural. 
 
 4 April. The Duke of Norfolk died of an apoplexy, and Mr. Tho. 
 Howard of complicated disease since his being cut for the stone ; he 
 was one of the Tellers of the Exchequer. Mr. How made a Baron. 
 
 May. Some Kentish men delivering a petition to the House of 
 Commons, were imprison'd^ 
 
 A greate dearth, no considerable raine having fallen for some months. 
 
 17. Very plentifuU showers, the wind coming West and South. — 
 The Bishops and Convocation at difference concerning the right of 
 calling the Assembly and dissolving. Atterbury '' and Dr. Wake ^ wri- 
 ting one against the other. 
 
 20 June. The Commons demanded a conference with the Lords on 
 the trial of Lord Somers, which the Lords refus'd, and proceeding on 
 the trial, the Commons would not attend, and he was acquitted. 
 
 22. I went to congratulate the arrival of that worthy and excellent 
 person my Lord Galway, newly come out of Ireland, where he had 
 behav'd himselfe so honestly, and to the exceeding satisfaction of the 
 people ; but he was remov'd thence for being a Frenchman', tho' they 
 had not a more worthy, valiant, discreet, and trusty person in the two 
 kingdoms, on whom they could have relied for his conduct and fitnesse. 
 He was one who had deeply suffer'd, as well as the Marquiss his lather, 
 for being Protestants. 
 
 Aug. The weather chang'd from heate not much lesse than in Italy 
 or Spain for some few days, to wet, dripping and cold with intermis- 
 sions of faire. 
 
 July. My Lord Treasurer made my Grandson one of the Commis- 
 sioners of the prizes, salary ;£5oo per ann. 
 
 8. My Grandson went with Sir Simon Harcourt, the Solicitor 
 General, to Windsor to wait on my Lord Treasurer. There had ben 
 
 ' There were five of them, all gentlemen of considerable property and family in the county. 
 There is a very good print of them, all on one plate. They desired the Parliament to mind 
 the Publick more and their private heats less. They were confined till the prorogation, and 
 were much visited. Burnet, V. 532. 
 
 2 Afterwards Bishop of Rochester. 
 
 ^ Afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 
 4 Henry Rouvigne, Earl of Galway in Ireland, son of the Marquis who was Ambassador 
 from France to Charles II. He was created a Peer by King William, for his gallantry at the 
 battle of the Boyne, where his brother also fought and was killed. He commanded after- 
 wards both in Italy and Spain, where the fatal battle of Almanza put an end to his military 
 glory. There is a mezzotinto Dortrait of him by Simon. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 583 
 
 for some time a proposal of marrying my grandson to a daughter of 
 Mrs. Boscawen, sister of my Lord Treasurer, which was now far 
 advanced. 
 
 14. I subscrib'd towards rebuilding Oakwood Chapel (Wotton 
 Parish), now after 200 years almost fallen down. 
 
 2 Sept. I went to Kensington and saw the house, plantations and 
 gardens, the work of Mr. Wise, who was there to receive me. 
 
 The death of K. James happening on the 15th of this month N. S. 
 after 2 or 3 days indisposition, put an end to that unhappy Prince's 
 troubles, after a short and unprosperous reign, indiscreetly attempting 
 to bring in Popery and make himselfe absolute in imitation of the 
 French, hurried on by the impatience of the Jesuits, which the Nation 
 would not indure. 
 
 Died the Earl of Bath, whose contest with Lord Montague about 
 the Duke of Albemarle's estate, claiming under a Will suppos'd to 
 have been forg'd, is said to have ben worth _!jio,ooo to the lawyers. 
 His eldest son shot himselfe a few days after his father's death, for 
 what cause is not cleare. He was a most hopefull young man, and had 
 behav'd so bravely against the Turks at the siege of Vienna, that the 
 Emperor made him a Count of the Empire. — It was falsely reported 
 that Sir Edw. Seymour was dead, a great man ; he had often been 
 Speaker, Treasurer of the Navy, and in many other lucrative offices. 
 He was of a hasty spirit, not thought at all sincere, but head of the 
 party at any time prevailing in Parliament. 
 
 29 Sept. I kept my first Courts in Surrey, which tooke up the 
 whole weeke. My Steward was Mr. Hervey, a Counsellor, Justice of 
 Peace and Member of Parliament, and my neighbour. I gave him 
 6 guineas, which was a galla a day, and to Mr. Martin his clerk, 
 3 guineas. 
 
 31 October. I was this day 81 complete, in tolerable health con- 
 sidering my greate age. 
 
 Dec. Great contentions about elections. I gave my vote and inte- 
 rest to Sir R. Onslow and Mr. Weston. 
 
 27. My grandson quitted Oxford. 
 
 1792. 21 January. At the Royal Society there was read and 
 approv'd the delineation and description of my Tables of Veins 
 and Arteries, by Mr. Cooper the chirurgeon, in order to their being 
 engrav'd 
 
 8 March. The King had a fall from his horse and broke his collar 
 bone, and having ben much indispos'd before, and anguish, with a 
 long cough and other weaknesse, died this Sunday morning about 
 four o'clock. 
 
 I carried my accounts of Greenwich Hospital to the Committee. 
 
 12 April. My Brother-in-law Glanville departed this life this morn- 
 ing after a long languishing illnesse, leaving a son by my sister, and 
 
584 GREENWICH HOSPITAL ACCOUNTS PUSHED. QUEEN ANNE. 
 
 two grand-daughters.' Our relation and friendship had ben long and 
 greate. He was a man of excellent parts. He died in the 84th year 
 of his age, and will'd his body to be wrapp'd in lead and carried downe 
 to Greenwich, put on board a-ship and buried in the sea betweene 
 Dover and Calais, about the Goodwin sands, which was don on the 
 Tuesday or Wednesday after. This occasioned much discourse, he 
 having no relation at all to the sea. He was a gentleman of an ancient 
 family in Devonshire, and married my sister Jane. By his prudent 
 parsimony he much improv'd his fortune. He had a place in the 
 Ahenation Office, and might have ben an extraordinary man had he 
 cultivated his parts. 
 
 My Steward at Wotton gave a very honest account of what he had 
 laid out on repairs, amounting to ^.1900. 
 
 3 May. The Report of the Committee sent to examine the state of 
 Greenwich Hospital was deliver'd to the House of Commons, much to 
 their satisfaction. — Lord Godolphin made Lord High Treasurer. 
 
 Being elected a member of the Society lately incorporated for the 
 Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts, I subscrib'd \ol. per ann. 
 towards the carrying it on. We agreed that every Missioner, besides 
 the 20/. to set him forth, should have 50/. per ann. out of the Stock ot 
 the Corporation till his settlement was worth to him \ool. per ann. 
 We sent a young Divine to New York. 
 
 22 June. I din'd at the Abp's. with the new-made Bishop of Car- 
 lisle, Dr. Nicholson, my worthy and learned correspondent. 
 
 27. I went to Wotton with my family for the rest of the Summer, 
 and my son-in-law Draper with his family came to stay with us, his 
 house at Adscomb being new building, so that my family was above 
 30. — Most of the new Parliament were chosen of Church of England 
 principles, against the peevish party. — The Queene was magnificently 
 entertain'd at Oxford and at all the townes she pass'd through on her 
 way to Bath. 
 
 31 Oct. Arriv'd now to the 82nd year of my age, having read over 
 all that pass'd since this day twelvemonth in these notes, I render 
 solemn thanks to the Lord, imploring the pardon of my past sins, and 
 the assistance of His grace ; making new resolutions, and imploring 
 that He will continue His assistance, and prepare me for my blessed 
 Saviour's coming, that I may obtain a comfortable departure, after so 
 long a term as has ben hitherto indulg'd me. I find by many infirmities 
 
 ' die of these daughters became heiress of the family, and married William Evelyn oi 
 St. Qeer in Kent, son of George of Nulfield. He assumed the name of Glanville, but there 
 being only daughters by this marriage, he had two sons by a second wife, and they resumed 
 the name of Evelyn. The first of those sons left a son who died unmarried before he cajne of 
 age, and a daughter who married Col. Hume, who has taken the name of Evelyn, but has 
 no child ; the second son of Mr. Glanville Evelyn married Lady Jane Leslie, who became 
 Countess of Rothes in her own right, and left a son, George William, who became Earl of 
 Rothes in light of his mother, and died in 1817, leaving no issue male. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 585 
 
 this yeare (especially nephritic pains) that I mucli decline ; and yet ol 
 His infinite mercy retain my intellects and senses in greate measure 
 above most of my age. I have this yeare repair'd much of the man- 
 sion-house and severall tenants' houses, and paid some of my debts and 
 ingagements. My wife, children and family in health : for all which 
 
 1 most sincerely beseech Almighty God to accept of these my acknow- 
 ledgments, and that if it he His holy will to continue me yet longer, it 
 may be to the praise of His infinite grace, and salvation of my soul. Amen. 
 
 8 Nov. My kinsman John Evelyn of Nutfield, a young and very 
 hopeful gentleman, and Member of Parliament, after having come to 
 Wotton to see me, about 1 5 days past, went to London and there died 
 of the small pox. He left a brother, a commander in the army in 
 Holland, to inherit a faire estate. 
 
 Our affaires in so prosperous a condition both by sea and land that 
 there has not ben so great an union in Parliament, Court and People, 
 in memory of man, which God in mercy make us thankfuU for ana con- 
 tinue. The Bp. of Exeter preach'd before the Queene and both Houses 
 of Parliament at St. Paul's ; they were wonderfully huzza'd in their 
 passage, and splendidly entertain'd in the Citty. 
 
 Dec. The expectation now is what treasure will be found on break- 
 ing bulk of the Galleon brought from Vigo by Sir Geo. Rooke, which 
 being made up in an extraordinary manner in the hold, was not begun 
 to be open'd till the 5th of this month before 2 of the Privy Council, 
 
 2 of the chiefe Magistrates of the Ciuy, and the Lord Treasurer. 
 After the excesse of honour conferr'd by the Queene on the Earl 
 
 of Marlborough, by making him a Knight of the Garter, and a Duke, 
 for the successe of but one campaign, that he should desire ;£5ooo 
 a yeare to be settled on him by Parliament out of the Post Office, 
 was thought a bold and unadvis'd request, as he had, besides his 
 own considerable estate, above .£30,000 a yeare in places and em- 
 ployments, with ^50,000 at interest. He had married one daughter 
 to the son of my Lord Treasurer Godolphin, another to the Earl of 
 Sunderland, and a third to the Eari of Bridgewater. He is a very 
 handsome person, well-spoken and affable, and supports his want 
 of acquir'd knowledge by keeping good company. 
 
 1703. News of Vice Adm. Benbow's conflict with the French fleete 
 in the West Indies, in which he gallantly behav'd himselfe and was 
 wounded, and would have had extraordinary successe, had not 4 of his 
 men of war stood spectators without coming to his assistance ; for this 
 2 of their commanders were tried by a Council of War and executed;! 
 a third was condemnd to perpetual imprisonment, loss of pay and m- 
 capacity to serve in future. The fourth died. 
 
 1 The Captains Kirbyand Wade were t.ied and condemned to die by a Court Martial held 
 on them in the West Indies-they were sent home in the Bristol, and on ,ts arrival at Poris- 
 mouth were both sbot on board, not being suffer'd to land on English ground. 
 
586 AN ITALIAN SINGER. DEATH OF SAMUEL PEPYS. 
 
 Sir Richard Onslow and Mr. Oglethorpe (son of the late Sir Theo. O.) 
 fought on occasion of some words which passed at a Committee of the 
 House. Mr. Oglethorpe was disarm'd. — The Bill against occasional 
 Conformity was lost by one vote. — Corn and provisions so cheape that 
 the farmers are unable to pay their rents. 
 
 Feb. A famous cause at the King's Bench betweene Mr. Fenwick 
 and his wife,^ which went for him with a greate estate.— The Duke of 
 Marlborough lost his only son at Cambridge by the small pox. — A 
 greate Earthquake at Rome, &c. — A famous young woman, an Italian, 
 was hir'd by our Comedians to sing on the stage, during so many plays, 
 for which they gave her ;^5oo ; which part by her voice alone at the 
 end of 3 scenes she perform'd with such modesty and grace, and above 
 all, with such skill, that there was never any who did anything com- 
 parable with their voices. She was to go home to the Court of the 
 King of Prussia, and I believe carried with her out of this vain nation 
 above _;/^iooo,2 every body covetting to hear her at their private houses. 
 
 26 May. This day died Mr. Sam. Pepys, a very worthy, industrious 
 and curious person, none in England exceeding him in knowledge of 
 the Navy, in which he had passed thro' all the most considerable offices, 
 Clerk of the Acts and Secretary of the Admiralty, all which he per- 
 formed with greate integrity. When K. James II. went out of Eng- 
 land, he laid down his office, and would serve no more, but withdrawing 
 himselfe from all public affaires, he liv'd at Clapham with his partner 
 Mr. Hewer, formerly his clerk, in a very noble house and sweete place, 
 where he enjoy'd the fruite of his labours in greate prosperity. He 
 was universally belov'd, hospitable, generous, learned in many things, 
 skill'd in music, a very greate cherisher of learned men of whom he 
 had the conversation. His library ' and collection of other curiosities 
 were of the most considerable, the models of ships especially. Besides 
 what he publish'd of an Account of the Navy, as he found and left it, 
 he had for divers yeares under his hand the History of the Navy, or 
 Navalia as he call'd it ; but how far advanc'd, and what will follow of 
 his, is left, I suppose, to his sister's son Mr. Jackson, a young gentle- 
 man whom Mr. Pepys had educated in all sorts of usefull learning, 
 sending to travel abroad, from whence he return'd with extraordinary 
 accomplishments, and worthy to be heir. Mr. Pepys had ben for neere 
 40 yeares so much my particular friend that Mr. Jackson sent me cojn- 
 
 1 She was daughter and heir of Sir Adam Brown of Betchworth Castle in Dorking, and 
 married Mr. Fenwick. This suit probably related to a settlement which she had consented to 
 make, by which the estate was limited to them and their issue, and the heir of the survivct. 
 They had one son, who died without issue, and she survived her husband, thereby becoming 
 entitled to dispose of it. 
 
 - What would Madame Mara or Catalani in these days think of such a paltry sum ? 
 
 * His valuable library he gave to Magdalen College, Cambridge, together with his fine col- 
 lection of prints, where they now remain in a very handsome room, and are to this day among 
 the videnda of that University, 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVLEYN. 587 
 
 pUat tnoiirning} desiring me to be one to hold up the pall at his mag- 
 nificent obsequies, but my indisposition hinder'd me from doing him 
 this last office. 
 
 13 June. Rains have ben greate and continual, and now neere 
 Midsummer, cold and wet. 
 
 11 July. I went to Adscomb, 16 miles from Wotton, to see my son- 
 in law's new house, the outside, to the coveing, being such excellent 
 brickwork, bas'd with Portland stone, with the pilasters, windows and 
 within, that I pronounc'd it in all the points of good and solid archi- 
 tecture to be one of the very best gentleman's houses in Surrey, when 
 finish'd. I returned to Wotton in the evening tho' weary. 
 
 25 July. The last week in this month an uncommon long-continued 
 rain, and the Sunday following thunder and lightning. 
 
 12 Aug. The new Commission for Greenwich Hospital was seal'd 
 and open'd, at which my son-in-law Draper was present, to whom I 
 resign'd my office of Treasurer. From August 1696 there had been 
 expended in building ^^89,364. 14J. %d. 
 
 31 Oct. This day, being 83 years of age, upon examining what 
 concern'd me more particularly the past year, with the greate mercies 
 of God preserving me, and in some measure making my infirmities 
 tolerable, I gave God most hearty and humble thanks, beseeching 
 Him to confirm to me the pardon of my sins past, and to prepare me 
 for a better life by the virtue of His grace and mercy, for the sake of 
 my blessed Saviour. 
 
 21 Nov. The wet and uncomfortable weather staying us from 
 church this morning, our Dr. officiated in my family, at which were 
 present above 20 domestics. He made an excellent discourse on i 
 Cor. 15, V. 55, 56, of the vanity of this world and uncertainty oi life, 
 and the inexpressible happiness and satisfaction of a holy life, with 
 pertinent inferences to prepare us for death and a future state. I gave 
 him thanks, and told him I tooke it kindly as my funeral sermon. 
 
 26, 27. The effects of the hurricane and tempest of wind, rain and 
 lightning thro' all the nation, especialy London, were very dismal. 
 Many houses demolish'd and people kill'd. As to my own losses, the 
 subversion of woods and timber, both ornamental and valuable, 
 through my whole estate, and about my house the woods crowning the 
 garden mount, and growing along the park meadow, the damage to 
 my own dwelling, farms and outhouses, is almost tragical, not to be 
 parallel'd with any thing happening in our age. I am not able to 
 describe it, but submit to the pleasure of Almighty God. 
 
 7 Dec. I remov'd to Dover street, where I found all well, but 
 house, trees, garden, &c. at Sayes Court suffer'd very much. 
 
 31. I made up my accounts, paid wages, gave rewards and new 
 years gifts according to custom. 
 
 1 A curious circumstance this. 
 
5S8 THE KING OF SPAIN AT WINDSOR. 
 
 1704. Ja;i. The King of Spain' landing at Portsmouth, came to 
 Windsor, where he was magnificently entertain'd by the Queene, and 
 behav'd himselfe so nobly that every body was taken with his graceful 
 deportment. After 2 days, having presented the greate Ladies and 
 others with very valuable Jewells, he went back to Portsmouth and 
 immediately imbark'd for Spain. 
 
 16. The Lord Treasurer gave my grandson the office of Treasurer 
 of the Stamp duties, with a salary of £-'yx> a year. 
 
 30. The Fast on the martydom of King Cha. L was observ'd with 
 more than usual solemnity. 
 
 May. Dr. Bathurst, President of Trin. Coll. Oxford, now died ', I 
 think the oldest acquaintance now left me in the world. He was 86 
 years of age, stark blind, deafe, and memory lost, after having ben a 
 person of admirable parts and learning. This is a serious alarm to 
 me. God grant that I may profit by it. He built a very handsome 
 Chapel to the College, and his own tomb. He gave a legacy of money, 
 and the third part of his library, to his nephew Dr. Bohun, who went 
 hence to his funeral. 
 
 7 Sept. This day was celebrated the thanksgiving for the late greate 
 victory ', with the utmost pomp and splendour by the Queene, Court, 
 greate Officers, Lord Mayor, Sheriffs, Companies, &c. The streets 
 were scaffolded from Temple bar, where the Lord Mayor presented her 
 Majesty with the Sword, which she return'd. Every Company was 
 rang'd under its banners, the Citty Militia without the rails, which were 
 all hung with cloth suitable to the colour of the banner. The Lord 
 Mayor, Sheriffs and Aldermen were in their scarlet robes, with 
 caparison'd horses ; the Knight Marshall on horseback ; the Foot 
 Guards ; the Queene in a rich coach with 8 horses, none with her but 
 the Dutchess of Marlborough in a very plain garment, the Queene full 
 of Jewells. Music and trumpets at every Citty Company. The greate 
 Officers of the Crown, Nobility and Bishops, all in coaches with 6 horses, 
 besides innumerable servants, went to St. Paul's where the Deane 
 preach'd. After this the Queene went back in the same order to St. 
 James's. The Citty Companies feasted all the nobility and Bishops, 
 and illuminated at night. Music for the Church and Anthems compos'd 
 by the best Masters. The day before was wet and stormy, but this was 
 one of the most serene and calm days that had been all the yeare. 
 
 October. The year has been very plentifull. 
 
 December. Lord Clarendon presented me with the 3 volumes of his 
 Father's History of the Rebellion. 
 
 31 Oct. Being my birth-day and 84th year of my life, after particular 
 reflections on my concerns and passages of the yeare, I set some con- 
 
 ' Charles the Third, afterwards Emperor of Germany, by the title of Charles the Sixth. 
 2 There is a very good life of him, with his portrait prefixed, by Mr. Thomas Wartoi^ 
 Tellow of Trinity College, and Poetry Professor at Oxford, 
 s Over the French and Bavarians at Blenheim, August 13, 1704. 
 
THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 589 
 
 siderable time of this day apart to recollect and examine my state and 
 condition, giving God thanks, and acknowledging his infinite mercys 
 to me and mine, begging his blessing, and imploring his protection for 
 the year following. 
 
 Dec.^ My Lord of Canterbury wrote to me for suffrage for Mr. 
 Clarke's continuance this yeare in the Boyle Lecture, which I willingly 
 gave for his excellent performance of this year. 
 
 1705- 4 January. I din'd at Lambeth with the Abp. of Dublin, Dr. 
 King, a sharp ready man in politics, as well as very learned. 
 
 June. The season very dry and hot.— I went to see Dr. Dickinson' 
 the famous chymist. We had long conversation about the Philoso- 
 pher's Elixir, which he believ'd attainable, and had seen projection him- 
 selfe by one who went under the name of Mundanus, who sometimes 
 came among the adepts, but was unknown as to his country or abode ; 
 of this the Doctor has written a treatise in Latin, full of very astonishing 
 relations. He is a very learned person, formerly a fellow of St. John's 
 ColL Oxford ', in which citty he practised physic, but has now alto- 
 gether given it over, and lives retir'd, being very old and infirm, yet 
 continuing chymistry. 
 
 I went to Greenwich Hospital 1 where they now began to take in 
 wounded and worn-out seamen, who are exceeding well provided for. 
 The buildings now going on are very magnificent. 
 
 9 Feb. I went to wait on my Lord Treasurer, where was the vic- 
 torious Duke of Marlborough, who came to me and tooke me by the 
 hand with extraordinary familiarity and civility, as formerly he was us'd 
 to do, without any alteration of his good nature. He had a most rich 
 George in a Sardonyx set with diamonds of very greate value ; for the 
 rest, very plain. I had not seen him for some yeares, and believ'd he 
 might have forgotten me. 
 
 21. Remarkable fine weather. Agues and J»za///(7;ir prevail much in 
 every place. 
 
 I I Mar. An exceeding dry season. — Greate loss by fire, burning the 
 outhouses and famous stable of the Earl of Nottingham at Burleigh 
 {Rutlandshire], full of rich goods and furniture, by the carelessness of 
 a servant. A little before, the same happen'd at Lord Pembroke's at 
 Wilton. — The old Countess of Northumberland, dowager of Algernon 
 Percy, Admiral of the Fleete to K. Cha. L died in the 83d yeare of her 
 
 ^ Edmund Dickinson of Merton College, Oxford, took the degree of batchelor of arts 22 
 June, 1647. He was living in Westminster in 1692, in good repute for his practice in the faculty 
 of physic. He published several things. Wood's Fasti Oxon. p. 741. 
 
 2 He was afterwards a Fellow of Merton. He died in 1707, aged 84. Dr. Campbell, in his 
 edition of the Biog. Brit, speaks very highly of him : but Dr. Kippis, in the new edition of that 
 work, differs much from the Doctor, though he allows him to have been a very learned man. 
 iMr Evelyn must have mistaken Dr. Dickinson as to his not knowing who Mundanus was, as 
 in 1686 the Doctor printed a letter to him with his answer from Paris ; in the latter, Mundanus 
 said he made two projections in his presence. Biog. Brit. art. Dickenson. 
 
590 FEBRUARY 27, 1706 — DIED JOHN EVELYN, ^T. 85. 
 
 age. She was sister to the Earl of Suffolk, and left a greate estate her 
 jointure to descend to the Duke of Somerset.' 
 
 May. TheBailiffofWestminsterhang'dhimself. He had an ill report. 
 
 On the death of the Emperor there was no mourning worn at Court 
 because there was none at the Imperial Court on the death of our 
 King William. 
 
 18. I went to see Sir John Chardine at Turnham Green, the gar- 
 dens being very fine, and exceeding well planted with fruite. 
 
 20. Most extravagant expence to debauch and corrupt votes for 
 Parliament members. I sent my grandson with his party of my free- 
 holders to vote for Mr. Harvey of Combe. 
 
 Oct. Mr. Cowper^ made Lord Keeper. Observing how uncertain 
 greate officers are of continuing long in their places, he would not ac- 
 cept it unless ^2000 a yeare were given him in reversion when he was 
 put out, in consideration of his losse of practice. His predecessors, 
 how little time soever they had the Seal, usually got ;£ioo,ooo, and 
 made themselves Barons. — A new Secretary of State. — Lord Abington, 
 Lieutenant of the Tower, displac'd, and General Churchill, brother to 
 the Duke of Marlborough, put in. An indication of great unsteadiness 
 somewhere, but thus the crafty Whig-party (as call'd) begin to change 
 the face of the Court, in opposition to the High Churchmen, which 
 was another distinction of a party from the Low Churchmen. The 
 Parliament chose one Mr. Smith Speaker. There had never ben so 
 greate an assembly of members on the first day of sitting, being more 
 than 450. The votes both of the old, as well as the new, fell to those 
 call'd Low Churchmen, contrary to all expectation. 
 
 31 October. I am this day arriv'd to the 85th year of my age. Lord 
 teach me so to number my days to come that I may apply them to 
 wisdom. 
 
 1706. I January. Making up my accounts for the past year, paid 
 bills, wages, and new year's gifts according to custom. Tho' much in- 
 disposed and in so far advanc'd a stage, I went to our Chapel [in 
 London] to give God public thanks, beseeching Almighty God to assist 
 me and my family the ensuing yeare, if he should yet continue my pil- 
 grimage here, and bring me at last to a better life with him in his 
 heavenly kingdom. Divers of our friends and relations din'd with us 
 this day. 
 
 27. My indisposition increasing, I was exceeding ill this whole week. 
 
 3 February. Notes of the sermons at the Chapel in the morning and 
 afternoon, written with his own hand, conclude this Diary. 
 John Evelyn died on the 27th of this month. 
 
 ^ This Duke had married Eliz. Percy, widow of Lord Cole, only daughter and heir to 
 Joceline Percy, the nth and last Earl of Northumberland. 
 
 2 William Cowper, created a Baron in 1706, and Lord Chancellor, afterwards Viscount 
 Fordwich and Earl Cowper, by George the First 
 
INDEX. 
 
 DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 Abbeville, 41. Abbots an eminent scri- 
 vener, 397 ttote, 412. Abbot, Abp. his Hos- 
 pital, 226. Abdy, Mr., 176. Acetariaj by 
 Mr. Evelyn, 575, Addresses to the King, 
 origin of, 570. Adscomb, Surrey, Dra- 
 per's house at, 587. Adventures of Five 
 Hours, a play, 291. jEtna, eruption of 
 (i66g), 265, 343. Agates, &c. curious, 42, 
 242, 243. Ague, cure for, 432, 433. Air, 
 experiment on, 284. Aix, in Provence, 70, 
 71. Albano, tombs of Horatii and Curiatii 
 atj 133, 
 
 Albemarle, George Monk, Duke of, 
 292, 294, 301, 303, 304, 308, 311, 313, 325, 
 329, 330, 437, 443. Stays in London 
 during the Plague (1665), 309. Appointed 
 General at Sea, &c. 310. Victory over the 
 Dutch fleet, 313, 314. Share of a Spanish 
 Galleon (1687), 510. 
 
 Albury, villa at,l(243. Alcoran, written on 
 a sheet of calico, 230. Aldobrandini, Car- 
 dinal, 145, 146. Alexander IIL Pope, 
 painting respecting, 114. Allegri, Antonio 
 da Corregio, paintings by, 52, 80, no, 133, 
 458, 565. Allen, Capt. Sir T., 304, 306, 
 355. Allestree, Dr., 270, 276, 341, 342, 
 384, 413, 422, 515. Alleyn, Edward, College 
 at Dulwich founded by, 387. Allington, 
 preacher against regicides, 239. Allington, 
 Lord, 115, 354. Alllx, Dr. Peter, 493, 
 501. All Souls' College, 300. Alps, jour- 
 ney over, 1B5 — i8g. Althorp, Lord Sun- 
 derland's seat, 386, 541. 
 
 Ambassadors, French, and Spanish, en- 
 counter between 277, 278. Amber, spider 
 inclosed in, 434. Amboise, Castle of, 63, 
 64. Ambrosian Library at Milan, i8r, 
 182. Ammanati, Vincenzo, architect, 138. 
 Amphitheatre at Vienne, 69 ; at Perigueux, 
 72 ; of Vespasian, 97 ; at Verona, 178. 
 Amsterdam, visit to, 27, 28. Anatomy, 
 schools of, at Leyden, 30 ; at Padua, 169, 
 J74. Anchor, method _ of casting (Acts 
 vx\'ii.) 57. Anderson, Sk Rich., 441. An- 
 ioyne, Abbot of, 37. Andrews, Bp., 
 (40, 445, 468. Angelico, apothecary, of 
 Vincenza, 177. Angeloni, Signer, his me- 
 dals, &c., 93, 133. Anglesea, Valentia, 
 Earl of, 337, 428. Anjou, Duke of, per- 
 forms in an opera {1651), 210 ; ambassage 
 to Charles n. 267. 
 
 Anne, Princess (afterwards Queen), 477, 493 
 526, 52S, 535, 550, 561 ; her marriage, 466, 
 
 467 ; refuses to dismiss Lady Marl, 
 borough, 548 ; William III. reconciled to, 
 559 ; entertained, when Queen, at Oxfordj 
 &c. 584 ; goes in procession to St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, 585, sBi?. 
 
 Antenor, founder of Padua, inscriptions to, 
 165. Antichrist, on the final destruction 
 of, 533. Antoninus, M. Aurelius, column 
 of, 137. Antonio Marc, singer, 148. Ant- 
 werp, visit to, 34, 35. Apennines, passage 
 over, 155, 156. Aponius, Peter, bust of, at 
 Padua, i6g. 'Apology for the King,' by 
 Mr. Evelyn, 262. Appian Way, its extent', 
 120, 122. Aquapendente, town of, 85. 
 Ara CckH, church of, at Rome, 90. Ara- 
 bian horses, account of some, 461, 462. 
 Arc, Joan of, statue of, 60. Architecture, 
 Parallel of ancient, with modem, by Eve- 
 lyn, 300. Aretine, epigram on, 168 7U}tc. 
 Argyle, Marquis of, 248, 250; his rebellion, 
 477 ; executed, 479. 
 
 Arlmgton, Lord, 278, 279, 283, 296, 301, 304, 
 306, 312, 316, 326, 330, 331, 339, 345, 347, 
 348, 350, 352, 353. 354, 357, 358, 363, 368, 
 37^. 373. 374» 375. 378, 450. (Lord Cham- 
 berlain), 389, 390, 391, 396, 411, 412, 451, 
 468 ; rebuilt Euston church and parsonage, 
 393 ; seat at Euston, 394, 396 ; life and cha- 
 racter, 396 ; died a Roman Catholic, 487. 
 
 Arlington, Countess of, 296, 372, 442, 449, 
 496, 504. Armourer, Sir Nich., 445, 526. 
 Armstrong, Sir T., his execution, 458, 
 550. Army, rebel (1648), ig6, 197 ; Parli^ 
 ment's firmness in limiting, 571. Arnold, 
 brewer, against the Bishops (1688), 517. 
 Axran, Lord, 437, 485, 512, 519. Arundel 
 and Surrey, Thos. Earl of, 24, 31, 36, 37, 
 38, 170, 17s, 178, 181. Arundel, Hn. Fred. 
 Earl, and Countess (1649), 200. Arundel, 
 Lord (1677), 372. Arundel, Hen. Earl 
 (1680), 425. Arundel, Earl, of Worksop 
 manor, 175. Arundel of Wardour, Lord 
 (1660), 262 ; (1664—1685), 296, 353, 357, 470 ; 
 released, 463, 478 ; (1687), Privy Seal, 506. 
 
 Arundelian Library, obtained by Evelyn for 
 Royal Society, 326, 402. Arundelian Mar- 
 bles, obtained for University of Oxford, 
 by Evelyn, 332, 342. Ashley, Lord 
 (1671-2), 354, 363- Ashmole, Elias, 378, 
 402, 480 ; hbrary, &c. , 400. Ashmolear . 
 Museum, 253, 400, 527. Ashton, execute<J 
 (i6gi), 543. Ashurst, Sir Henry, 565, 
 Ashurst, Su: W. 561, 568. Atkins, Sir Joa. 
 
592 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 377. Atterbury, Dr. 582. Attorneys, 
 numb;r of, reduced, 577. Aubigny, Lord, 
 217, 280, 296. Audley End, Earl of Suf- 
 folk's, 240, 347, 396, 448. Avernus, Lacus 
 ■(Naples), 130. Auger, Sir Anth., 331. 
 Augustus' aqueduct, 119; Temple of, at 
 Puteoli, 182 ; Mausoleum at Rome, 200. 
 Avignon, 70. Aungier, Lord, 241, 400. 
 Aurelius, Marcus, statue of, 116. Aurum 
 Potabile, prepared by M. Roupel, 226. 
 Axtall, regicide, executed, 268. Ayles- 
 bury, Earl of, 437, 525. Ayscue, Sir 
 George, taken by the Dutch 314. 
 
 Backhouse, William, 490, Bacon, Sir Ed- 
 ward, 393. Baden, Prince Louis of, in 
 LfOndon (1694), 555. Ilaglione, Caval. 
 Giovanni, paintings by, 88, 136. Baiae of 
 the Romans, 127, 130, 131. Baker, Mr., 
 Epping Forest, 343, 440. Baker, Capt,, 
 attempted t^he North-west Passage, 390. 
 Baldarius, Andrea, 168. Ball, Sir Peter, 
 282. Balle, P., gift to Royal Society. 20,^, 
 Bancroft, Bp., his library, 240, Bandinelh, 
 productions of, 79, 81, 82, 152. Bank of 
 England established, 556, 558, 568. Banks, 
 Sir John, an opulent merchant, 390, Ban- 
 queting-house, auction of pictures at, 553. 
 Bansted, Roman medals, &c., found near, 
 2c;9- Baptism, private, without necessity, 
 censured, 532. Baptist, Signior John, mu- 
 sician, 459, 463. Baratarius, \Nic., archi- 
 tect. 162. Barbadoes, conspiracy of negroes 
 at (1693), 551. Barberini, Caid. F., his 
 courtesy to Englishmen, 104, 121, 145. 
 Barclay, John, his 'Icon Animarum.' 223. 
 Bargrave, Dr., 365. Barill, 196. Baril- 
 lon, Mons., 495. 
 
 Barlow, Bp., 230, 299, 333, 334, 341, 384. 
 Barlow, Francis, painter, 382, 428. Bar- 
 low, Mrs., Mistress of Charles IL, 201, 
 482. Baronius, Cassar, 124. Barrow, Dr., 
 sermon by, 382. Bartholomeo, picture 
 by, 221. Bartholomeo, Signior, musician, 
 412, 432, 470. Bartholomew Fair, 156. 
 Basil, Council of, original acts of, 230. 
 Basire, Dr. Isaac, 280, 2S9. Bassompiere, 
 Mons. de, his palace, 42. Bath, visit to 
 (1654), 229. Bath, Grenvllle, Earl of, 272, 
 390, 398, 437, 442, 465, 468, 478, 511, 540, 
 566, 582. Bath, Knights of, ceremonies of 
 (1661), 272. Bathurst, Dr. Ralph, 315, 326, 
 333> 381, 384, 588. 
 
 Eaynards, at Ewhurst, 252. Baynton, Sir 
 E., 232. Bear-garden, sports at, described, 
 345. Beauchamp, Lady, 242. Beaufort, 
 Duke of, 440, 447, 577. Beckford, Lady, 
 415, 426. Bede, MS. of, in the Bodleian 
 library, 230. Beddington, 19, 258, 579. 
 Bedford, Earl of, 272, 336. Bedford House, 
 Bloomsbury, 304 note. Bedlam Hospital, 
 252, -^g^afid note. Belasyse, Lord, 291, 300, 
 ?36. 505- Bella, Gteph., sculptor, 203, 
 Bellini, Giovanni, head of, 270. Belluccio, 
 Dr., of Sienna, 150. Belvolr Castle, 239. 
 Bembo, Card., 140. Benbow, Admiral, 
 566, 568, 585. Benedict VIL, 141. Bene- 
 vento, statue by, 8r. 
 
 Benotti, pietra comessa. Bo, 151. Bentivo- 
 glio, Cardinal, gardens, xiisx Sentley. Dr. 
 
 Richird, 555, 558, 569, 570 ; the first Boyle 
 lecturer, 449, 548, 551 ; again chosen, 555. 
 Berkeley, Sir Chas. , 291. Berkeley, George, 
 ist Earl, 258, 261, 287, 2Q5, 316, 435, 441; ; 
 Ambassador to France, 386. Lady Berke- 
 ley, 458. Berkeley of Stratton, John Lord, 
 353. Berkeley, Lord, bombardment by, 
 558. Berkeley, Judge, 451. Berkeley- 
 Castle, East India-man, sunk, 555. Berke- 
 ley-House, 369, 457, 458, 559. Berkshire, 
 Earl of, 340. 
 
 Bernini, sculptor and architect, 93, 09, 102^ 
 io3j 135. 148, 152, 203. Bertie, Mr., 313 
 Berwick, Duke of, active in the conspiracy 
 (1696), 564, Beveridge, Dr., anecdot* of, 
 543. Bible, English MS. in Bodleian Li. 
 brarj', Oxon, 230. Biblla Polyglotta, 224, 
 Bickerstaff, Sir C, 3S9. Bickerton, Mrs. 
 Jane, dau. of Robert, 399, 401. Biddulph, 
 Sir Theophilus, 368. Billiards, Portu- 
 guese method of playing, 414. Bills tacked 
 to Money Bill, contest about, 578. Birch, 
 Dr., against Papists, 504. Birds, Royal 
 collection, in St. James's Park, 304. Biron, 
 Lord, 217. Newstead Abbey 236. 
 
 Bishops, inattentive to the interests of the 
 church at the Restoration, 363 ; the six 
 Bishops petition James II. against his de- 
 claration for liberty of conscience, 515 ; 
 sent to the Tower, 516; trial, 517; called 
 upon to reconcile matters on the expected 
 invasion (168S), 521 ; Bishops and Convo- 
 cation at variance (1701), 582. 
 
 Elackheath, camp at (1673), 373 ; fair on, 
 (1683), (1690), 441, 541. Blackball, Dr., 
 Boyle lecturer, 560. Blathwaite, Mr., Sec- 
 retary at War, 511. Bleaw, Mr., 29. 
 Blenheim, thanksgiving for the victory of, 
 588. Blois, town, &c., 62, 63. Blood, Col. 
 (who stole the crown), 353. Bloomsbury 
 Square, building of, 302. Blount, Sir 
 Henry, 262. Blount, Col., 239, 245, 246, 
 252, 262. Bobartj botanist, 368. Bodleian 
 Library, curiosities of, 230. Boet, Dr., 
 209. Bohemia, Eliz., Queen of, 25; 
 funeral, 283. Bohun, Dr., tutor to Mr. 
 Evelyn's son, 308, 326, 350 ", living given 
 him by Mr. Evelyn, 581 ; Dr. Bathurst's 
 legacy to, 588. Bohun, Mr., Lea, 411, 436, 
 448. Bois-le-Duc, fortifications, &c. of, 
 31. Bologna, Ealdassa di, painting by, 94. 
 Bologna, John di, sculpture by, 43, 81, 82. 
 
 Bologna, buildings and curiosities of, 155. 
 Bolsena, Lake of, 85. Bombardment, a 
 cruel species of warfare, 53, 54. Bombs, 
 experiments made upon, 507. Bond, Sir 
 The, 390, 429. Bonnes Hommes, convent 
 of, at Paris, 209. Booth, Mr., 206. Booth, 
 Lord, 272. Borghese, Card., 146, 152. 
 Eorghesi, Villa, 98, 144. Borromeo, Car- 
 dinal, his munificence, 180. Boscawen, 
 Mr., 483 ; his daughter, 568. Boscawen, 
 Mrs., 402 ; her daughter, 582. Boucharvant, 
 Abbess of, 211. Bouillon, Duke and 
 Duchess of, 142. Boulogne, 41. Bourbon 
 I'Archambaut, 67. Bourdon, Mons., por- 
 trait of Mrs. Evelyn by, 199, 218, 22u. 
 Bourgcs, 69. Bowles, Sir John, 452. 
 Eowyer, Sir Ed., 526, 
 
 Boyle, Hon. Robert, 246, 261, 267, 271. 285, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 593 
 
 *99i 389) 523, 540; experiment by, 284; 
 elected President of the Royal Society, 
 422 ; his death, 547 ; Bp. Burnet's sermon 
 at his funeral, ib. 
 
 Boyle Lecture, preachers elected, &c., 548, 
 555. 558, 563 ; settled in perpetuity, 565. 
 Eoyne, battle of, 540, 541. Bradshaw, 
 George, of Balliol College, 20. Bradshaw 
 (regicide), 20, 197, 200, 207, 223, 271. 
 Bramhall, Abp., 266, 498. Bramstone, 203. 
 Bramstone, Mr., 171, 193, 336. Branden- 
 burgh, Duke of, his present to the Royal 
 Society, 410 ; to the Queen (1693), 434, 
 554. Brandon, Lord, trial and pardon of, 
 493. Bray, Sir Ed., 252. Breda, ship of 
 var, blown up, 542. Brederode, family of, 
 31, 396. Brentford, battle of, 38. Brescia, 
 179. Bret, Col., 429. Bretagne language, 
 resemblance to Welsh, 384. 
 
 Breton, JJr., vicar of Wotton, 280. Breval, 
 Mons,, 361. Brevent, Dr., ordination of, 
 205. Breughel, Peter, elder, painting by, 
 343. Breughel, John (Velvet Breughel), 
 181, 196, 198. Brideoak, Dr. Ralph, Bp. 
 of Chichester, 382, 389. Bridgeman, Sir 
 Orlando, 354, 37c, 390, 478. Brightman, 
 Mr., 540. Brill, Paul, paintings by, 52, 
 115, 2B8. Brindley, James, engineer, 335. 
 Brisbane, Mr., of Admiralty, 427, 451. 
 Bristol, 229 ; St. Vincent's Rock, zl>. Bris- 
 tol, Earl of, 279, 282, 284 ; at Wimbledon, 
 283, 398, 399. Bristol, Countess of, 406, 
 412, 447, 519. „ , 
 
 Brodrick, Su- Alan, 382. Bromley, Mr. John, 
 house at Horseheath, 347. Brompton 
 Park, rare plants in, 556. Bronzini, Ag- 
 nolo, paintings by, 80, 153. Brook, Lord, 
 234. Brook, Lady, 227. Brounker, Vis- 
 count, first President of the Royal Society, 
 287 bis, 295, 372, 398, 454. Brounker, Mr. 
 Hen., 354, 401, 421. Brown, Sir Adam, 
 406, 475, 585. Brown, Sir Ambrose, 241, 
 258. Brown, Sir Richard, temp. Eliz. & 
 Jac, 438. 
 
 Brown, Sir Richard, Ambassador to France, 
 father-in-law to Evelyn, 195, 202, 205, 206, 
 213, 214, 216, 223, 224, 270, 336, 384 ; his 
 support of the Church while abroad, 265 ; 
 disappointed of the wardenship of Merton 
 College, 176 ; resigns the clerkship of the 
 Council, 361 ; master of the Trinity House, 
 371 ; his death and funeral, 437 ; eulogium 
 of him, 438, 439 ; debts owing to, from the 
 Crown, 509. Brown, Lady, 221, 224. 
 Brown, Sir Tho., 359 ; his curiosities, 360. 
 
 Bruce, Lord, 164, 246, 454. Brussels, 35— 
 37. Buckingham, Geo. VilHers, first Duke 
 of, 245. Buckingham, second Duke, 201, 
 3361 301,337, 354, 360, 412 ; his 'Rehearsal' 
 performed, 361 ; his glass-work, 392. Buck- 
 ingham, Duchess of (1686), 501. Buckle, 
 Sir Chris., 259. Buda, thanksgiving on 
 the capture of. 503. Bull, Mr., F.R.S. 275. 
 Buonarotti, Michael Angelo, architecture 
 of, 86, 90, 93, 94, 96 ; paintings, 52, 106, 
 115, 119, 152, 566; sculpture, &c., 79, 81, 
 103, 107, loB, 140, 152, 153, 154) 512. 
 Burial in churches, censured, 532. Bur- 
 leigh, Cecil, Lord, 39 ; letters, 240. Bur- 
 leigh -on-the-bili 236, S87, Burlington, 
 
 Earl of (1688), 45ij 522. Burnet, Dr., 408, 
 417 ; Evelyn contributed to his Hist, of the 
 Reformation, 427 ; his preaching, 435, 529, 
 569, 577 '> pastoral letter burnt by the hang- 
 man, 559. Burton, Sheriff of Surrey, 452. 
 Burton, Mr., of Honson Grange, 468. Bury 
 St. Edmunds, 393. Bushell's wells at En- 
 stone, 299. Butler, Mrs. (1674), 381. 
 
 Caen, 55, 56. Cagliari, Paolo, 52, 53, 15:^ 
 162, 167. Calais, 40, 201, Calchography 
 History of, 285. Calista, comedy of, per* 
 formed at court, 380. Cambridge, Colleges, 
 239, 240. Camden's Britannia, edition of 
 '1695), 560. Camomile flowers, fumes of, 
 for headache, 199. Can, Dr., 457. Cannon, 
 remarkable one at Venice, 167. Cantei^ 
 bui-y Cathedral, 38, 303. Capel, Lord, 
 trial and death {1649), 198, 199, 268, 415. 
 Capel, Sir Hen. (Lord Capel of Tewks- 
 bi;ry), 328, 402, 407, 451, 483, 514, 548, 
 554- 
 
 Capellus, Mons., 534. Capitol at Rome, 88 
 — 90. _ Caprarola, palace of, 216. Caracci, 
 Agostino, gallery painted by, 86. Caracci, 
 Annibale, 91, 137, 156, 166, 270, 277. Ca- 
 racci, Ludovico, 156. Caravaggio (Poli- 
 doro Caldara), 92, 139. Cardigan, Brude- 
 nell. Earl of, creation of, 196. Carew, Mr., 
 harper, 200, 297. Carlingford, Lord, new 
 fuel projected by, 524. Carlisle, Howard, 
 Earl of, creation of, 272 ; Court of Muscovy 
 complain of him as Ambassador, 291. Car- 
 marthen, Lord (1701), 581. Carnarvon, 
 Earl of, igi. Carnivals, at Naples, 125 ;at 
 Rome, 141. Caroline, Queen of George II., 
 328. Carshalton, 259. Carteret, Sir Geo., 
 
 201, 266, 289, 293, 354, 504. 
 Cartwright, Col., 555. Cartwright, Archdea- 
 con of St. Alban's, library, 517. Cartwright, 
 Dr., Dean of Ripon, 501. Cary, Patrick, 
 brother of Lord Falkland, 86. Cary, Mrs., 
 251. Cashiobury, 415. Castel Franco, 
 Geo., 160. Castel Mellor, Count de, 399, 
 480. Castlehaven, Lord, 437, 442. Cas- 
 tlemaine, Lady, 335. Cat, singular kind 
 (probably the Mocock), 252. Catanea, 
 earthquake at (1693), 552. 
 
 Catherine (Queen of Charles II.), 448 ; her 
 arrival, 284 ; her person, 285 ; procession 
 on the Thames in honour of, 257 ; toilet, 
 373 ; birthday (1672), 370 ; (1684), 460 ; 
 grief on Charles's death, 467, 469 ; stovs in 
 England, 516. 
 
 Cathedrals, notices of, in England, 38, 229, 
 23I) 233, 234, 237, 238. Abroad, 44, 55, 761 
 83, 149, 180 ; St. Peter's, loi — 104 ; St. John 
 Lateran, 104 — 106. Catta Malata, statue of, 
 166. Cave, Dr., 414. Cesare, Giusefjpc, 
 paintings, go, 92,101, 106, 146. Cestius, 
 C., tomb of, at Rome, 134. Chambourg, 
 palace of, 62. Chardin, Sir John, 419, 
 453) 455. 456, 502, 509, 511. Charenton, 
 Protestant church at, 52 ; monument at, 
 
 202. Charitable Uses, &c., inquiry re 
 specting, 286, 287. Charles, ship, 110 guns, 
 launching of, 335. 
 
 Charles 1., 181, 196, 236, 238, 290; procession 
 (1640), on return from the North, and to 
 the Long Pailiament, 6 ; on proclamation 
 
 3? 
 
594 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 of p;nce (1642), 23; murder, 197; paint- 
 ings, S:c., dispersed, 198; statues thrown 
 down, 203 ; prayers used on his martyr- 
 dom, altered {1689), 528 ; Stephens's ser- 
 mon, 576. 
 
 Charles II. ,201, 217,253, 258,313,368,369, 411, 
 461 ; letter in defence of, 203 ; declaration 
 to Parliament, and their address to, ib. ; 
 return to London, 265 ; Evelyn's corre- 
 spondence with Col. Morley previous to the 
 Restoration, 504 ; entertained at Guild- 
 hall, 265 ; touches for the evil, ib. ; speech 
 to Parliament, 266 ; Peers created hy, &c. , 
 172; coronation, 273 ; opens Parliament, 
 and declares his intention to marry, 275 ; 
 sailing-match between boats of his and the 
 Duke of York's, 277 ; in danger at sea, 286 ; 
 commends Evelyn's writings, and explains 
 his plan of building Whitehall, 300; pro- 
 rogues Parliament (1665), 304 ; visits the 
 fleet (1665), 307 ; gracious reception of 
 Evelyn after the Plague, 311, 312 ; orders 
 thanksgiving on fight with the Dutch 
 (1666), 314; assumes the Persian habit, 
 324 ; dines in ancient state, 331 ; gaming 
 at his Court, gaiety of the ladies, &c. , 334, 
 335 ; grants a lease to Evelyn, other atten- 
 tions, 337 ; projectfor getting him a divorce 
 (1669), 344 ; desires Evelyn to write a His- 
 tory of the Dutch war, 345, 348, 351 ; at 
 Newmarket, 357; at Euston with Mad. 
 Querouaille, 358 ; attachment to Frances 
 Stuart, 378 ; library at Whitehall, 419, 
 420 ; alarm at the Rye-house plot^ 446 ; 
 profligacy of his Court, 462, 467 ; his sick- 
 ness and death, 463, 464 ; conduct in his 
 last hours, 465 ; character, 465, 466 ; papers 
 proving him a Roman Catholic, 488, 
 4B9 ; anniversary of his Restoration neg- 
 lected (1692), 550. 
 
 Charles III. of Spain, in England (1704), 587. 
 Charles V., statue of, 37 ; horse-arms, 152. 
 Charles IX., letters of, 240. Charlton, Dr., 
 lecture by, 440. Charlton, Mr., his curio- 
 sities, 504, 539, 547. Charnock, Robert, 
 executed, 565. Charts of the British coast, 
 438 ;^Chaworth, Lord, 496; Chaworth, Dr., 
 894. Cheap Cross, London, destroyed, 39. 
 Cheeke family, seat at Burrow Green, 346. 
 Chelsea, 406, 407, 447, 4S2 ; water-works, 
 517. Chelsea College, prisoners of war 
 confined at, 303 ; given to the Royal 
 Society, 384 ; purchased to erect the Royal 
 Hospital, 428, 429, 432, 433, 435. Cheney, 
 Lord, and son, 29, 41, 70. Chesterfield, 
 Earl of, 315, 342, 414. Chichley, Sir 
 Thomas, 315, 317, 347. Chiffinch, Mr., 
 King's closet-keeper, 280. Child, Sir Jos., 
 his great wealth, 439. 
 
 China, curiosities from, 296. Choppines of 
 the Venetian ladies, 163. Christ Church, 
 Oxford, 231. Christ College, Cambridge, 
 240. Christ's Hospital, 252, 506. Christina, 
 Queen of Sweden, 328, 422. Christmas 
 Day, observance prohibited, 224, 226, 254. 
 Chrysostom on Education, translated by 
 Evelyn, 256, 258. Church-music, altera- 
 tion in, 240. Ch urch of England, collection 
 for persecuted ministers (1658), 257 ; private 
 Fast by (1659), 262. Churchill, Sir Win- 
 
 stan, 490. Churchill, Gen., Lieut, of Towerj 
 521. Churchill, Mr., collection of rarities, 
 
 505. 
 
 Cicero's tomb, 122, 123. Clancarty, Earl of, 
 519, 542. Clancarty, Countess of, 542. Clan< 
 ricard, Lord, 223. Clapham, houses at, 
 noticed, 41, 72. Clare, Lord, 236, Clare, 
 Dr., 216, 217. Clare Hall, Cambridge, 
 240. 
 
 Clarendon, Edward Hyde, Earl of, 201, 210, 
 270, 285, 2q8, 316, 325, 327, 588 ; attempts 
 to remove him from his office of Chancellor 
 (1656-7), 272 ; his daughter's marriage to 
 the Duke of York, 268 ; elevated to the 
 Peerage, 277 ; visits Mr. Evelyn in state, 
 287 ; impeached by the Parliament, 327 ; 
 Seals taken from him, 331 ; party in Par- 
 liament against, 272, 331, 332, 333 ; his 
 flight, 334 ; injurious charges against him, 
 448, 449 ; his conduct contrasted with that 
 01 his supplanters, 204. 
 
 Clarendon, Hen. (Lord Combury), second 
 Earl, 287, 298, 313, 328, 338, 340, 373, 413, 
 437, 442, 453. 459, 4^8, 473, 511, 525, 535, 
 586 ; letters to, on the ' Mystery of Jesuit- 
 ism,' 298 ; Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, 483, 
 4B7, 495; his recall, 505, 506; refused to sit 
 In council with Papists (168S), 522 ; op- 
 posed William's assumption of the crown, 
 530 ; sent to the Gate-house (1690), 54a ; 
 bailed, 541 ; confined in the "Tower, 543^ 
 544 ; permitted to take country air, 545. 
 
 Clarendon, Countess, 270, 416, 458, 472, 480, 
 490, 535- Clarendon, Ed. (Lord Combury), 
 third Earl, his account of Denmark (16S7), 
 Sii ; goes over with some regiments to the 
 Prince of Orange, 524. Clarendon House 
 built, 298, 313, 325, 327 ; collection of pic- 
 tures at, 338 ; sold and demolished, 443, 
 448, 457 ; opinion of the house, 448 note. 
 Clarges, Sir Walter, 558, 578. Clarke, 
 player on the Irish harp, 226, 336. Claude, 
 Mons., forced to quit France, 493 ; his 
 book burnt in England, 499. Clayton, Sir 
 T., 425. Clayton, Sir Robert, 250, 370, 
 375» 390, 392, 396, 397 "o£e, 407, 412, 413, 
 536, 561, 579. Clements (regicide), exe- 
 cuted, 268. Clench, Dr., 526, 527, 547. 
 Cleve, Duke of, 31. Cleveland, Earl of, 
 292, 325 ; Duchess of, 345, 412, 465 ; her 
 children by Charles IL 359, 368, 391, 498. 
 Clifden, 410. 
 
 ClifiFord, Sir Thomas, afterwards Lord, 301, 
 325. 357, 358—366, 346, 363, 375, 377, 378 ; 
 Lord Treasurer, exchequer closed by his 
 advice, 363 ; inclined to Popery, 364 ; re- 
 signs, 373 ; engaged to the Duke of York 
 not to take the test, 374 ; his character and 
 unhappy death, 325, 374—377. 
 
 Clocks, curious, 242, 269, 270. Coale, Gre- 
 gory, 325. Cock, Capt, 301. Coffee intro- 
 duced, 20. Coin, depreciated state of 
 (1694), 558 ; difficulties in reforming it, 563 ; 
 new coinage (1605), ib. ; scarcity of (1696)^ 
 565, 566. Coloert, French ambassador, 
 325, 337. 357- Colchester, 248. Coleman 
 executed. 405. Coligni, assassination of, 
 114. Collins, Dr., of King's College, 239. 
 Collins, Capt., sea-chart by, 438. Cologne, 
 City of, address Charles II., 266. Colone, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 S95 
 
 BartolomeOj statue of, i68. Colonna, Con- 
 nestable, io6 ;wifeof Colonna, 573. Colum- 
 bus, painting of, 462. 
 Oamoinges, Mons., French ambassador, 292, 
 301, 307. ' Committee,' a play by Sir K. 
 Howard, 290. Compton, Dr., Bp. of 
 London, 341, 372, 391, 439, 442, 502. 
 Compton, Sir \Vm. , 278. Conde, Prince 
 of, 198, 201, 202, 203, 221, Confederates 
 (i68g), progress of, 534, 535. Conopios, 
 Natn., a Greek, 20. Conscience, liberty 
 of, proclamation for, in Scotland (1687), 
 506 ; bishops petition the king against 
 reading the declaration for, 515 ; proceed- 
 ings against them, 516, 517. Considera- 
 tion, treatise on, by Dr. Homeck, 440. 
 Constantine the Great, statues of, go ; arch, 
 97 ; obelisk, 105 ; church built by, 140. 
 Convention (1689), proceedings of, as to 
 disposal of the crown, 22, 526, 528, 530. 
 Convocation (1690), for reforming liturgy, 
 537> 538 ; notice a passage in a book of Dr. 
 Davenant's, 581 ; disagree with bishops, 
 
 582. 
 
 Conway, Lord, 399. Cony, Mr., 388. Cook, 
 Sir Robert, 207. Cook, the regicide, exe- 
 cuted, 268. Cooke, Col., 202, 454. Cooke, 
 Capt., an excellent singer, &c., 242, 245, 
 Cooke, Sir T., discovery about East India 
 Company, 561. Cooper, Mr., limner, 281. 
 Cooper, Lord, creation of, 272. Coque, 
 Mons. le, 536. Cornbury, Lord Corn- 
 bury's house at, 298. Cornwallis, Lord, 
 272, 421, 461, 467. Coronation and Har- 
 wich ships lost, 546. Cortona, Pietri 
 Berritini di, paintings, &c., by, 90, 92, 148, 
 153. Cortone, Dr., of Verona, 178. Cosin, 
 Dr., Bp. of Durham, 203, 214, 240, 292, 
 337, 481 ; in English chapel at Paris, 205, 
 214; publishing his 'Offices,' ib. ; on the 
 purchase of his library, 220. Cosin, John, 
 son of the bishop, perverted to Popery, 
 1217, 320. Cotterell, Sir Ch,, 335, 430 I ^^^ 
 son, 366. Cottington, Lord, 201, 210. 
 Cotton, Sir John, 54 ; a great Grecian, 
 316, 335, 574. Cotton, Sir Robert, 316, 
 335. Cotton, Lady, 196, 297. Covel, Dr. 
 John, 563. Covenant, Scotch, burnt, 276. 
 Coventry, brief notice of, 235, address to 
 James II., thanking him for liberty of con- 
 science, 571. Coventry, Sir William, secre- 
 tary to James, Duke of York, &c., 202, 262, 
 291, 308, 312, 331. 
 
 Cowley, Abr., 202, 295, 331 ; letters to, 326. 
 Cowper, Mr. (Earl Cowper), lord keeper, 
 5B9, 590. Cox, Capt., Royal Nav>-, 336. 
 364. Craddock, Dr., Provost of Eton, 410, 
 411 ; sermon of, 49S. Crafford, John, 22. 
 Cranbum, Lord, 430. Crane, clerk of Green 
 Cloth, 270. Craven, Lord, 228, 355- 
 Creighton, Dr., 202, 280, 292, 377, 391, 483. 
 Cressy's answer to Dr. Pierce, 294. Creve- 
 cceur, Marquis de, 210. Crew, Bp., 502, 
 503, 504. Crew, Sir Clepesby, 196. Crew, 
 Lord, creation of, ig6. Crisp, Sir Nich., 
 project of, 245, 283. 
 
 Croft, Dr. Herbert, ' Naked Truth by, 340, 
 388, 389. Crofts, Lord, 201, 393. Crombe, 
 Col., 32. Cromwell, Oliver, 196 ; Act of 
 Oblivion, 220 ; leasts with Lord Mayor, 
 
 227 ; prohibits ministers of the Chmcli from 
 preaching, &c., 245; death and funeral, 
 258, 259, 260; disinterment, 218, 249, 252, 
 271, 277, 378. Cromwell, Richard, 260. 
 Crowder, Rev. Mr., 216. Crowe, Sir Sack- 
 yille, 306, Croydon Church, monuments 
 in, 579. Croydon, Dr., 211. Crusca, Aca- 
 demy de la, 153. 
 Cudworth, Dr., 406. Culpepar, Col., 480. 
 Culpeper, Lord, 310, 314, 354. Cumber- 
 land, Dr., Bp, of Peterborough, 543, 544. 
 Curtius, Sir Wm., 211, 298. Custance, 
 Capt., knighted, 307. Custom-house, re- 
 built after fire, 357. Cutler, Sir John, of 
 De^tford, 260, 362, 365. Cyril, patriarch 
 of Constantmople, 20. 
 
 D'Ada, Ferdinand Count, Pope's nuncio, 495, 
 511. Daincourt, Lord, 381. Dampier, 
 Capt,, 571, 572. Danby, Earl of, 431. 
 Dangerfield, whipped, 479. Darcy, J^d- 
 ward, 19, 20. Darien, Scotch book about, 
 576 ; Parliament vote against the Scotch 
 settling in, 577. Darneford Magna, farm 
 so called, 233. Darnel, Rev. Mr., 244. 
 Dartmouth, Lord, fair on Blackheath pro- 
 cured by, 441, 457, 483. Davenant, Sir 
 W., plays, 260, 280, 290, Davenant, Dr., 
 554» 581- D'Avinson, Dr., of Paris, 202. 
 Davis, Lieut., 306 note. Davis, Mrs., 324, 
 381. Daun, M., 554, Dean Forest, plant- 
 mg of, suggested, 289. Deane, Sir An- 
 thony, 433 ; building men of war described 
 by, 432 ; frigates, fireships, &c., 538, 539, 
 540. De Creete, painter, 233. Dedham, 
 Essex, 249 ; Deepden at Dorking, 243. 
 Deering, Sir Ed., 416. Delabarr, paint- 
 ings, 200. Delamere, Lord, 524. De 
 I'Angle, M., 442. Del Camp, M., 203. 
 Delft, 27. Delichio, Busq., bending tower, 
 150. Denbigh, Earl of (1664), 298. Den- 
 ham, Sir John, 227, 245, 280. Denmark, 
 tyranny exercised in, 511. Denmark, 
 Prince of (1662), 284. Denmark, Prince 
 George of, 461, 462, 511; married to Prin- 
 cess Anne, 446, 447. Deptford, plague 
 at, 314, 316 ; fire in dockyard, 329 ; church 
 built, 574. Derby, Earl of, 203 ; executed, 
 216. Derby, Lord (16S9), 527, 530. Coun- 
 tess of, 391, 419. 
 
 D'Espagne, Mons., 249. D'Estrades, Mar- 
 shal, obliged Jas. II. to dismiss Protes- 
 tants, 533. Devereux, Lord, 249. De 
 Vic, Sir Henry, 36, 277, 327. Devonshire, 
 Earl of (1652), 220. Devonshire, Earl of, 
 afterwards Duke, 530, 554, 567. 572- De- 
 vonshire, Christian(i662), Countess of, 286 ; 
 (1686), 496. Diamond and Ruby ships 
 launched, 220. Dickinson, Dr. Ed., 589, 
 Dickvelt, Mynheer, 509. Dieppe, 53 ; bom- 
 barded, 558. Digby, Earl of, 463, 694. 
 Digby, Sir Everard, 505. Digby, Sir 
 Kenelm^ 32, 227, 230, 277, 290 ; Mr. Eve- 
 lyn's opinion of him, &c. , 216, 345. Digby, 
 Mr. J., 175. Digesters, Papin's, bone dis- 
 solved by, 434, 435. Diocletian, baths of. 
 at Rome, 93, 94. Diodati, Siguier John, 
 191, 192, 193. Dissenters, Act of Indul* 
 gence for, 534.. 
 
 Dives, Su: Lewis, adventures of, 212, axo. 
 
59& 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Dmng-bell, trial of, 277. Dobson, paintci, 
 401, 455. Doge of Venice, espousal of the 
 Adriatic, 170. Doily, Sir William, 301, 313, 
 317, 322. Dolben, Dr., 343, 398; Abp. of 
 Canterbury, 447, 498. Dolben, Mr. Jus- 
 tice, 409. Donatelli, statue by, 81. Donna, 
 Count, Swedish ambassador) 335. Dor- 
 chester, Marquis of, 328, 571. Dorchester, 
 Countess of, 401. Dorell, Mr., 258. Major, 
 368. Dorislaus, funeral of, 200. Dorset, 
 Charles Sackville, sixth Earl of, 530, 561, 
 567. Dorset, Countess of (1657), 254. 
 Dove, Dr., sermons by, 411, 462. Dover, 
 Earl, 251, 447, 547. Dover, Countess of, 
 496. Dover Castle, prisoners of war at, 
 306. Doughi, Cardinal, 84. 
 Douglas, Lieut.-Gen., 537. Douw, Gerard, 
 421. Downing, Sir George, 316, 351. 
 Drake, Sir Francis, 249. Draper, Wil- 
 liam, who married Mr. Evelyn's daugh- 
 ter, 552, 553, 554, 562, 569 7lotC, 584, 586. 
 
 Draper, Mrs., 569, 581. Drebbell, che- 
 mist, 316. Drogheda taken, 202, 540. 
 Dryden, John, plays by, 291, 377, 388, 442, 
 540 ; said to go to mass, 496. Dublin 
 surrendered, 540, 546. Du Bois, paintings, 
 198, 206, 443. Du Bosse, engraver, 203. 
 Ducy, Sir William (Lord Downe), 196, 261, 
 262, 297 ; paintings, 198, 227. Duel, fatal 
 one, 556. Duert, Signior, merchant of 
 Antwerp^ 135. Dugdale, Sir William, 203, 
 247, 402—476. 
 
 l>ake. Dr., 361. Dulwich College, 386. 
 Dumbarton, Lord, 500. Dumblaine, Pere- 
 grine, Vise, 381, 453. Du Menie, che- 
 mist, 211. Duncan, Rev. Dr., 209, 329. 
 Duncomb, goldsniith, 566. Duncomb, Sir 
 Sanders, 20 ; introduced sedans, 132. Dun- 
 comb, Rev, William, 560, 569. Duncomb, 
 Mr., one of the Lords Justices in Ireland, 
 554. Duncomb, Ant., 570 note. Dun- 
 combe, Charles, parliamentary proceedings 
 against, ib Duncombe, Sir John, 315, 316, 
 354, 431. Dundonald, Lord, his scheme 
 of charring sea-coal, 249. Dunkirk, 38 ; 
 Louis XIV. before, 354. Dunstall, Mr., 
 engraver, 325. Duport, Dr., Greek pro- 
 fessor, 276, 369. Duppa, Bp., 421. 
 
 Duras, Lord (Earl of Feversham), 3B7, 461. 
 Durdans at Epsom, 258, 287. Durell, Dr., 
 Dean, 205, 406, 442, Durer, Albert, 52 ; 
 prints, 59 ; carvings, 80, 151, 243 ; paint- 
 ings, 106, no, 151, 152,243. Dutch, avarice 
 of, 262 ; embassy to late Will. III., 534 ; 
 jealousy concerning the Spice islands, 274 ; 
 toll for the fishery in Scotland refused by, 
 191. Dutch bishop, humorous story of, 85, 
 86. Dutch fleet, daring enterprise (1667), 
 in the destruction of ships at Chatham, 328, 
 329 ; completely block up the Thames, 329, 
 330, 331 ; encounter with, 331. Dutch war, 
 vigorous prosecution of, on both sides 
 (1665), 306. 
 
 Earle, Dr. (Bp. of Salisbury), 195, 201, 214, 
 270,290. Earnley, Sir J.,505. Earth and 
 Vegetation, Mr. Evelyn's discourse on, 
 384. Earthquakes — in England (1687), 509; 
 at Althorpe, &c. (1690), 542 ; in Jamaica, 
 (1690), and in all parts of Europe, 551 ; at 
 
 Catanea and Malta(i693), 552 ; at Portlan<2 
 (1696), 563 ; at New Batavia (1699), 574 ; at 
 Rome (1703), 585. East India Company, 
 union of, &c. (1657), 254 ; prosperous, 438 ; 
 probable dissolution^ 534 ; transactions in 
 Parliament respecting, 548, 572. East 
 India Company, Dutch, their palace at 
 Antwerp, 35 ; account of the Company 
 (1656), 250. East India Company, Scotchj. 
 566. Eaton, Judge, 200. Ecclesiasticai 
 affairs, Commission for (1686), 502. 
 Edgecombe, Sir Rich., 336. Edgehill, battle 
 of, 38. Edward VI., MS. exercises of» 
 420. Edward the Confessor, crucifix and 
 gold chain found in his coffin, 485. Eleanor, 
 Queen, 238. Elizabeth, Queen, head of^ 
 effigies, &c., 233, 321. Elowes, Sir John, 
 428. Eltham palace, 247. Elzevir print- 
 ing office at Leyden, 30. Emanuel College, 
 Cambridge, 240. Embalming, new-in- 
 vented method of, 434. Employment, 
 public, and an active life, preferred, 
 326. England, New, 354, 355, 356, 361, 
 581. English language, 428. English 
 portraits, collected by Lord Clarendoit, 
 
 338. 
 
 Eustone, Eushell's wells at, 299. Epping 
 forest, Earl of Norwich's house on, 343, 
 Erasmus, statue and birthplace, 24 ; por- 
 trait by Holbein, 243. Eremitana, Albert, 
 head of, 161. Erskine, Mr , master of 
 Charterhouse, 411, 426. Essex, Capel, 
 Earl of, creation of, 350 ; his house, &c., at 
 Cashiobury, 415; character, &c., of, and. 
 his lady, 416 ; not privy to the marriage of 
 Lady Ogle and Mr. Thynn, 420 ; com- 
 mitted to the Tower, 443, 444 ; his death, 
 445. 455- Essling. Mons., of Paris, his 
 gardens, 54. Estcourt, Sir Will., killed, 
 462. Estd, Palace d', atXivoIi, 146. Estd, 
 Princess Mary Beatrice d', married to 
 James, Duke of York, 377. Eve, cele- 
 brated statue of, 162. 
 
 Evelyn, Sir Ed., elected M.P., 475, 549. Eve- 
 lyn Elianor (mother of John), 17, 18, 19, 20. 
 Evelyn, Eliza (sister of John), 17, 337. 
 Evelyn, Elizabeth (second dau. of John), 
 332, 483. Evelyn, George (elder brother 
 of John), 17, 22, iq6, 107, ig8, 220, 226^ 
 297, 475 ; elected M.P. for Surrey, 330 ; a 
 dep.-heut. of Surrey, 555 ; character, 574 ; 
 family, 575 ; Evelyn, Capt. Geo., traveller, 
 his skill in architecture, 199, 226. Evelyn^ 
 Geo., of Nutfield, 555, 558, 559, 574. 
 Evelyn, Geo., his travels, 575. Evelyn, 
 Jane (sister of John), 17, 24, 196, 200, 207, 
 217. Evelyn, old Sir John, monument at 
 Godstone, 377. Evelyn, Sir John, of God- 
 stone, 200, 226, 258, 262, 294, 358, 579. 
 Evelyn, Sir John, of Deane, Wilts, 200^ 
 510. 
 
 Evelyn, John, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 — 38 ; matri- 
 culated at Leyden, 30 ; arrives in London, 
 38 ; at the battle of Brentford, 39 ; sends a 
 horse accoutred to the king at Oxford, 405 
 embarks for France, ib. ; Normandy, 54 ; 
 attacked by robbers, 60 ; arrested by his 
 valet, 65 ; sets out for Italy, 66 ; in the 
 Mediterranean, 72, 73 ; his peril, 72, 73 ; 
 at Genoa, 74; blessed by thf^ P>pe, 14^5; 
 
INDEX. 
 
 597 
 
 disappointed of a voyage to the Holy 
 Landj X65 ; matriculated at Padua, 170; 
 contnbutes to Father Kircher's ' Obesilcus 
 Pamphilius,' 171 ; elected Syndicus Artis- 
 tarum at Padua, 172 ; leams the Theorba, 
 -73 *t attends anatomical lectures, purchases 
 preparations, and attends the hospitals, at 
 Padua, 174 ; adventure with a Scotch colo- 
 nel, 183, 184 ; journey over the Alps, 184, 
 185 ; detained at Mount Simplon, 186, 187 ; 
 •catches the small-pox, igo, igi, 192 ; at 
 Geneva, igo ; learns High Dutch and 
 Spanish at Paris, 195 ; frequents a course 
 of chemistry, ib. ; marries, 196 ; returns to 
 England, ib. ; visits King Charles I. at 
 Hampton Court, ib. ; sets out for Paris, 
 Atoo ; with King Charles II. at St. Ger- 
 main's, 201 ; presented at an audience with 
 the French regency, 202 ; perilous adven- 
 ture in company with Lord Ossory, 204, 
 205 ; sails for England, 206 ; in danger 
 from the rebel army, 207 ; returns to 
 France, ib. ; remarks, 208, 209 ; at an au- 
 dience of Sir Richard Browne with Louis 
 XIV., 213 ; returns to England, 218 ; settles 
 a,t Sayes Court, Deptford, 220; robbery 
 committed upon, near Bromley, 222, 223 ; 
 purchases Sayes Court, ib. ; journey into 
 Wiltshire, 228 — 241 ; attends a private meet- 
 ing of the Church of England in London, 
 242, 243, 249 ; applies to Dr. Jeremy Taylor 
 as his spiritual adviser, 242 ; visits Abp. 
 Usher, 243 ; conversation with Oughtred, 
 244 ; catechizes his family, 245 ; visits 
 Hartlib, 245 ; attends a farewell sermon on 
 the prohibition of the Church, ib. ; procures 
 ordination for Mons. Le Frane, 'whom he 
 had converted, 247 ; publishes his Lucre- 
 tius, lb. ; journey to the N.E. of England, 
 249, 250 ; subscribes to the stock uf the 
 Eng. East Ind. Co., 254 ; surprised, with 
 -many others in Exeter chapel, by the mili- 
 tary, ib. ; grief at the death of his eldest 
 son, Richard, 235 ; death of his son George, 
 257 ; publishes a translation of Chrysostom 
 on education, 258 ; summoned by Com- 
 missioners for new foundations, 260 ; pub- 
 lishes his ' French Gardener,' 260 ; his inti- 
 macy with Hon. Robert Boyle, 261, 267 ; 
 publishes his apology for King Charles II., 
 262 ; treats with Col. Morley to bring in 
 ■the King, 262 ; letter in defence of the King 
 against a paper from Brussels, 263, 264 ; 
 procures Col. Morley's pardon, 263 ; pre- 
 sented by the Duke of York to the King at 
 •the Restoration, 265 ; requested to take out a 
 commission for a troop of horse, but de- 
 clines, 267 ; presented to Anne, Duchess of 
 York, 270 ; chosen a member of the Philo- 
 sophical Society, ib. \ presents his ' Circle 
 ^f Mechanical Trades," to the Society, ib. ; 
 .and his ' Relation of the Peak of Tene- 
 riffe,' 271 ; Prince Rupert shows him the 
 method of mezzotinto, 272 ; declines the 
 honour of Knight of the Bath, ib. ; presents 
 his • Panegyric ' on the Coronation of the 
 King, 275 ; di:;courses with Charles II. 
 .about the Royal Society, 276 ; and presents 
 his ' Fumifugium ' to the King, 277 bis ; 
 sails down the Thames with the King, 278 ; 
 
 his 'Translation of vra=par Naudacus con- 
 cerning Libraries,' 280 ; receives the thanks 
 of the Royal Society, ib. ; James, Duke of 
 York, ib. ; held the candle while King 
 Charles's head was drawn for the new coin* 
 281 ; Duke of York visits him, 282, 283; 
 attends the King about the palace at 
 Greenwich, ib. ; appointed a commissioner 
 for improving streets, &c., in London, 284, 
 286 ; attends Prince Rupert to the Royal 
 Society, 284 ; presents his ' History of 
 Chalcography ' to the Royal Society, 285 ; 
 made a commissioner for charitable uses, 
 286 ; visit of the Queen-mother to, 35X ; 
 Hyde Lord Chancellor's visit to, ib. ; nomi- 
 nated by the King of the Council of the 
 Royal Society, ib. ; sails down the Thames 
 with the King and Queen, 257 ; petitions 
 the King about his own concerns, and goes 
 with him to Mons. Febure, 288 ; presents 
 his ' Sylva ' to the Royal Society, 289, 300 ; 
 at Court, 289 ; suggests the planting of 
 Forest of Dean with oak, ib. ; King pays 
 him a visit at Sayes Court, 292 ; his house 
 broke open, ib. ; made a commissioner of 
 the Mint, 295 ; death of his son Ric'iard, 
 ib. ; letter to Geo. Evelyn on the expense 
 of his travels in Italy, 574 note ; with the 
 King, 295 ; subscribes to Slingsby's lottery, 
 297 ; goes with Lord Combury into Ox- 
 fordshire, 298, 299, 300 ; appointed a com- 
 missioner for sick and wounded, 301, 302 ; 
 his activity in that office, 303, 304, 305, 306, 
 307, 308, 309, 310, 312, 314, 316, 317, 325, 
 328, 335. 3^3t 364. 365. 366, 367, 368 369 ; 
 publ ishes a part of the ' Mystery of Jesuit- 
 ism,' King Charles commends it, 303 ; 
 visits the Royal Menagerie in St. James's 
 Park, 304 ; entertained on board the fleet 
 at the Nore, 307 ; sends his family from 
 London on account of the plague, but re 
 mains there himself, 309 ; passes through 
 the infected parts of the city, 30^, 310 ; 
 graciously received, and his services ac- 
 knowledged, by King Charles and by the 
 Duke of York, 311, 312 ; his plan for an in- 
 firmary for sick and wounded, ib. ; closetted 
 with the King, ib. ; elected of the Council 
 of the Royal Society, ib. ; with Prince 
 Rupert at the Nore, 315; made a Com- 
 missioner for the forming and making of 
 saltpetre, 315, 316 ; a Commissioner for re- 
 pair of old St. Paul's Cathedral, 317 ; wit- 
 nesses the awful fire of London, 319, 320; 
 presents his plan for rebuilding London to 
 the King, 322 ; overturned in his carriage, 
 325 ; letter by Sir Sam. Tuke on the fire of 
 London and noticing his plan for rebuilding 
 the City, 148, i-jg, 150 ; Pen»ian habit as- 
 sumed by the King, which he had recom- 
 mended in his ^Tyrannuo,' 324, 325 ; 
 library and MSS. of the Earl of Arundel 
 given to the Royal Society by his means, 
 326, 402 ; publishes his ' Public Employ- 
 ment preferred to Solitude,' 326 ; visits the 
 Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, 327, 328 ; 
 conducts the Duchess of Newcastle to a 
 meeting of the Royal Society, 328 ; with 
 King Charles II. ib. ; commanded by his 
 Majesty to search for peat, 329 ; his receipt 
 
598 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 |i 
 
 t 
 
 for making houllies (a mixture of charcoal 
 and loam) tried, 330 ; obtains the Arun- 
 delian marbles, 332 ; University in Convo- 
 cation present their acknowledgments to, 
 332) 333, 334 ; gives the Royal Society his 
 tables of veins and arteries, t6. ; gives a 
 
 Quantity of bricks towards building a college 
 or Royal Society, 335 ; lease of land 
 granted to, by the Kin^, 5^7 ; publishes 
 his ' Perfection of Paintmg, 337 ; list of 
 
 treat men whose portraits he recommended 
 ,ord Clarendon to procure, 338 note; his 
 'History of the Four Great Impostors,' 
 39 ; degree of Doctor conferred on him 
 <y the University of Oxford, 342, 343 ; 
 affliction on account of his brother Richard, 
 343, 344, 345 ; pressed to write the history 
 of the Dutch war, 345 ; draws up a draught 
 of it, 348 ; the King orders official docu- 
 ments to be given, 349, 350, 357 ; intro- 
 duces Gibbon, the carver, at Court, 350, 
 35I) 352, 353 ; appointed on a Council ifor 
 foreign plantations, 352, 353 ; attends the 
 meetmgs of, 354 — 357, 360, 361, 362, 365, 
 ,69, 370, 377 : he and his wife entertained 
 ly the Trinity Company for passing a fine 
 of land for their almshouse, 353 ; hi? law- 
 suit with Mr. Cock, 355 ; dines with King 
 Charles II. at Euston, 358 : lease of Sayes 
 Court granted to, by the King, 361 ; con- 
 versation with Lord Sandwich, and reflec- 
 tions on his death, 366, 367 ; reads the first 
 part of his ' Dutch War' to Lord Clifford, 
 369 ; chosen Sec. of Roy. Society, 370 ; 
 sworn a younger brother of the Trinity 
 House, 371 ; Lord Clifford's prophetic 
 farewell to, 375 ; his ' Navigation and 
 Commerce, their Original and Progresse,' 
 379 ; character of Sir Wm. Petty, 381, 383 ; 
 Discourse of Vegetation,' 384; Lord 
 Berkeley confides his estates and property 
 to, 387, 388, 389, 391, 392 : the Queen 
 er.tertained at Sayes Court, 389' a copy of 
 'Marmora Oxoniensia Arund^;liana' pre- 
 sented to him, by the University, z6, ; 
 treats for marriage of his son with dau. of 
 Sir John Stonehouse, 414 ; last conversa- 
 tion of, with Lord Ossory, 417, 418, 4Z;; 
 consulted by Sir Stephen Fox about Chel- 
 sea Hospital, 432 — 435 ; attacked with 
 ague, and settles his affairs, id. ; declines 
 standing the election for President oi" 
 Royal Society, 438 ; disposes of his East 
 India adventure, id. ; his account of Sir 
 Richard Browne, 439 ; plants his walks at 
 Sayes Court, 441 ; declines a lucrative 
 employment from conscientious motives, 
 449 ; attends the King on a visit to the 
 Duchess of Portsmouth, 450 ; visits the 
 Lord Danby in the Tower, 453 ; consulted 
 by Dr. Tenison about erecting a public 
 library, 456 ; his ' Account of the Winter 
 of (1683 — 4)', published in Phil. Trans. 457 ; 
 consulted about building over Berkeley 
 Gardens, id. ; assists in proclaiming 
 James II. on the death of Charles, 468; 
 his affliction on the death of his daughter 
 Mary, 469 — 474 ; death of his daughter 
 Elizabeth, 483; James II. 's gracious re- 
 ception of, id. ; accompanies Mr. Pepys 
 
 to Portsmouth to attend on James II,, 484 
 — 487 ; of Mr. Pepys, about papers tend- 
 ing to prove Charles II. a Roman Catholic, 
 488, 489 ; appointed a Commissioner of 
 Sewers, 493 ; and a Commissioner for exe- 
 cuting the office of Privy Seal, 495 ; trans- 
 actions, 496, 499, 500, 50-^, 504 ; refuses the 
 Privy Seal for printing missals, 498 ; and 
 declines attendance, id. ; refuses Privy 
 Seal for printing popish books, 500 ; in at* 
 tendance on James 11. on his birthday, 
 503 ; reflections of, on King James's (at- 
 tempted) introduction of popery, 505, 506 ; 
 commissioners for Privy Seal dismissed, id.; 
 particulars relating to his lawsuit, which 
 was terminated by the favour of James 11., 
 508, 509, 510 ; appointed a governor of St. 
 Thomas's HospUal, 511 ; petitions to b*' 
 allowed charges as a commissioner of sick 
 and wounded, 5 [4; letter to Abp. Bancroft, 
 detecting machinations of the Jesuits, sa* j- 
 prayer on the anniversary of his birthdc* 
 (68th year), 522 ; Abp. Bancroft thanks him 
 for his letter, 525 ; his examination of the 
 extraordinary talents of Dr. Clench's soh, 
 526, 527 ; his remarks on Queen Mary 11.^ 
 529; conversations with Abp. Sancroftand 
 Ep. Lloyd, 532, 533, 534 ; his portrait 
 taken again by Kneller, id. ; prayer on his 
 birthday (1689), 536 ; conversarion with 
 Mr. Pepys on the Navy, 538, 539 ; dines 
 with Sir G. Mackenzie, id. ; conversation 
 with Dr. Lloyd, 240, 241 ; becomes one of 
 the bail for Lord Clarendon, 541 ; en- 
 courages Dr. (afterwards Sir) Hans Sloane 
 to write a histoi'y of Jamaica, 543 ; at the 
 funeral of Mr. Boyle, 547 ; a trustee for the 
 Boyle Lecture, 548, 555 ; his opinion of 
 Dr. Bentley s Boyle Lecture, 549 ; Mr. 
 Draper's marriage with his dau. Susanna, 
 552; declines Presidentship of the Royal 
 Society, 555 ; Duke of Norfolk's kindness 
 for the Evelyn family, 555 ; goes with his 
 family to live with his brother at Wotton, 
 557 ; his conversation with Marquis of Nor- 
 manby, about Charles II., 558 ; treasurer 
 of Greenwich Hospital, 559, 568 note, 581 ; 
 his account of the death of Queen Mary, 
 559 ; furnished the additions to Surrey 
 in Camden's * Britannia ' (1695), 560 ; one 
 of a committee to survey Greenwich House^ 
 561, 566 ; his intimacy with Dr. Tenison, 
 558, 561, 562 ; interests himself about the 
 Royal library at St. James's, 563, 571 ; 
 settles the Boyle Lecture :n perpetuity, 
 565 ; lets his house in Sayes Court to Adm. 
 Benbow, 566 ; first stone of Greenwich 
 Hospital laid by him and others, 567 ; 
 letter to Dr. Bohun, noticing his employ- 
 ment, at Wotton, his grandson and dau. 
 Draper, 569; goes with the Surrey address 
 of congratulation for peace to King Wil- 
 liam III., 570; his house at Sayes Court 
 let to Peter the Great, 571 ; affliction for 
 the loss of his son, 572 ; regret for his 
 brother Richard's death, 574, 575 ; settles 
 at Wotton, 576; his prayer on completing 
 his 80th year, 580 ; his concern for the ill- 
 ness of his grdson., td. ; subscribes towards 
 re-building Oakwood chapel, at Wotton 
 
INDEX. 
 
 599 
 
 58a ; holds his courts in Surrey, 583, 584 ; 
 his tables of veins and arteries ordered to 
 be engraved by the Royal Society, 583 ; 
 elected a member of Soc. for propagating 
 Gospel in foreign parts, 5B4; pious examin- 
 ation of himself on completmg his 82nd 
 year, 585 ; resits the treasurership of 
 Greenwich Hospital to his son-in-law Dra- 
 per, 586, ^87 ; account of his treasurership, 
 581 ; recollection of himself at 83, 587, 588 ; 
 conversation with Dr. Dickinson about 
 philosopher's elixir, ib. ; Duke of Marl- 
 borough's condescension to, 58^ ; his sick- 
 ness, sgo ; his death, ib. ; Christmas hos- 
 pitality to his neighbours, 301, 302, 339, 
 
 343. 377 ; * Essay on Manuscripts,' 263 ; 
 his published works, 83 ; list of his works, 
 from the ' Biographia Britannica,' 87, 88, 
 89 ; etchings by, ib. 
 
 Evelyn, John (third son of John), 242, 325, 
 398 ; presented to Queen-mother, 270 ; 
 entered of Oxford University, 326, 340 ; 
 admitted of Middle Temple, 365 ; pub- 
 lished a translation of ' Rapinus Hor- 
 torum,' 370; a younger Brother of the 
 Trinity House, 373 ; went with Lord 
 Berkeley into France, 386, 389 ; his mar- 
 riage, 414; sent into i)evon by Lords of 
 the Treasury, 512 ; commissioner of Irish 
 revenue, 551 ; his death, 572, 
 
 Evelyn, John (grandson of John), birth, 433 ; 
 at Eton, 550 ; entered at Oxford, 571; at- 
 tacked with small-pox, 580 ; conimissioner 
 of prizes, 582; treaty for marriage, ib. \ 
 treasurer of stamp duties, 588. Evelyn, 
 Mary (dau. of Sir Rich. Browne, and 
 wife of John Evelyn), marriage, 195, 218, 
 220 ; Charles II. 's condescension and 
 promise to, 269, 271; Princess Henrietta 
 thanks her for the 'character' she had 
 presented, 270 ; presented a copy of a 
 miniature by Oliver to Charles IL, 276. 
 
 Evelyn, Mary (daughter of John), 310, 378, 
 406, 432, 46^, 469, 474. Evelyn, M. Lady 
 Wyche, 196, 197, 549. Evelyn, Richard 
 (father of John), 17, 18, 19, 23. Evelyn, 
 Richard, of Woodcote (brother of John), 
 17, 22, 196, 197, 252, 207, 337, 340, 343, 
 
 344. Evelyn, Richard (son of John), 223, 
 235, 256, 527. Evelyn, Susanna (daughter 
 o" John), 340, 552. Evelyn, Mons., 344. 
 
 • Evening Lover,' a play, 336- Everard, 
 Mis., 206. Eversfield, 415, 426, 574- 
 Evertson, Capt.,305, 306. Euston, seat at, 
 357, 358, 359. 394> 395» 396. Exchequer 
 sh'it up (1672), 363. Excise, &c., duties 
 let to farm by James IL, 468 ; Scots grant 
 item for ever, 476. Execution at Rome, 
 148. Exeter College, comedy performed 
 by, 20. Exeter chapel, communicants at, 
 surprised, 254. Exeter, Earl of, 236, 451. 
 Exhalation; fiery, 555- Exomologetis,294. 
 Experiment new ship, 301. Exton, Dr., 
 294. Eyre, Mr. Justice, 568. 
 
 Fairfax, Major, 396. FaJconberg, Vise, 398, 
 442. Falkland, Lord, 458, 473, 557- Falk- 
 land, Lady,47i, 472. Falmouth, Chas. Ber- 
 keley, Earl of, 278. Family of Love, 500. 
 Fanelli, stotues by, 285. Fanshawe, Rich., 
 
 2iO, 241, 274, 286. Famese palace, 86,118, 
 133. Farnese, Cardinal, 106, 149. Faubert, 
 Mons., 429, 436, 461. Fearne, Dr., 262. 
 Fell, Dr., 276, 299, 304, 342, 501. Felton, 
 Sir John, 393. Fenwick, Sir John, 566, 
 568. Ferguson, conspirator, 445, 480, 481. 
 Feria, Duke of, 182. Fermor, Sir Wro, 
 (Earl of Pomfret), 407, 427, 543, 548. Fer- 
 rara, 157. Ferrarius, Dr., 180, 181. Fer- 
 rers, Barons, Oakham, 236. Fete Dieu, 
 64. Feversham, Earl of, 387, 461, 465, 
 479, 485, 52^. Fiammingo, Ger., 94, 102, 
 148, 206. Fiat, Mons., 229. Field, Bp. of 
 Oxford, 19. Fiennes, Dr., 584. Fiesola, 
 Gio. di, 14c. Fifth Monarchy men, 252, 
 270. Filmcr, Sir E. 452. Finch, Lord 
 Keeper, in Holland, 25, 28, Finch, Lord 
 Chancellor, Earl of Nottingham, 301, 355, 
 425. Finch, Mr., Earl of Aylesford, 407, 
 ,467> 507, 5", 568._ 
 Fire-ships, 539. Fireworks at Rome, 109 ; 
 in St. James's square, 563. Firmin, Mr., 
 536. Fish, horn of, 296. Fitzgerald, Lady 
 Cath., 458. Fitz-Harding, Lord, 574. 
 Fitzpatrick, Col., 509. Flamen, Nic, 59. 
 Flamsted, Dr., 391, 416, 447, 458. Fleet, 
 engaged (1665), 305; victory, June (1665), 
 306 ; at the Nore, 307 ; victory, June (1666), 
 314, 315 ; sJd state of the English fleet. 
 315 ; English and French fleets (1672), 366 
 Fleetwood, Bp. 3S9. 
 Florence, 79—83, 150, 153 ; palace of Pitti, 
 79; Palazzo Vecchio, 77—81; church of 
 the Annunciata, 82, 151 ; Poggio Imperiale, 
 J50 ; repository of curiosities, 152; old 
 palace, z^.; Leopold's collection, 153 ; Sig. 
 Gaddi's, ib. ; Academy de la Crusca, ib. ; 
 Church of St. Lav/rence, ib. ; artists, 154. 
 Florival, Mons., of Geneva, 573. Fog, 
 remarkable (^1699), 575. Fontaine, Mrs., 
 247. Fontamebleau, 52, 53. Fontana, 
 Annibal, carving, by, 180. Fontana, Do- 
 raenico-Maria, works of, 95, 96, 100, 105, 
 106, 116, 136, 139, 156. Fontana, Lavinia, 
 117,133, Forbes, Mr., 457. Force, Duchess 
 de la, 536. Forster, Sir H., 229. Fother- 
 bee, Sir John, as. Fowler, Dr. Ed., Bp. 
 of Gloucester,*is43. Fowler, Sir T., 228. 
 Fox, Sir Stephen, 317, 407, 411, 412, 414, 
 421, 431, 437, 44i> 45°. 454. 459. 47,3, 484, 
 505 ; forms regulations for Hospital at 
 Chelsea, 42B, 432, 435.436. Foy, Dr., 571. 
 Frampton, Rob., Bp. of Gloucester, 362, 
 370, 543. Franc, Mons. le, 247. France, 
 persecution of Protestar.ts, 478. Francesco, 
 Sig., 380, 432. 
 Francis I., tomb of, 41. Francis ^ Paula, 
 St., epitaph, 64. Eraser, Sir Alex., 3x4. 
 Frederick, Sir John, Lord Mayor, 279. 
 Freeman, Sir Ralph, 290. French refugees, 
 509. French, Dr., 229, 294. Frene, Mons., 
 of Paris, 52. Frescati, 145, 146. Fray, 
 Hans, 152. Frigates, advantage of, 538. 
 Fromantel, curious clock by, 26^, 27^. 
 Frowde, clerk to Mr. Locke, 239. Falgosi, 
 Rodolphus, tomb of, 166. Fuller, Dr. Will., 
 377. Fuller, paintings by, 300. * Funiifu- 
 gium,' publication of, 277, 320. 
 
 Gaddi, Sig., of Florence, 153. Gale, Dr. 
 
6oo 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Thos., St. Paul's school, 438, 560, <;62. 
 Gallant, Wild, by Dryden, 291. Galley- 
 slaves, 70, 72, 78. Galloway, Bp. of, 205, 
 Galloway, Lord, 261. Gardens, abroad^ 
 
 27.. 36, 47. 48. 49. 53. 54. 57. S8, 59.. 2?° I 
 Oria's at Genoa, 74, 75 ; Palace of Pitti at 
 Florence, T02 ; Palazzo de Medici at Rome, 
 Qi, 92 ; Prince Ludovisio's, 92, 93 ; Villa 
 Borghesi, 98, 144; Cardinal Borghese's at 
 Rome, no ; Pope's palace at Monte Ca- 
 vallo, in; Vatican, 116; Horti Matheei, 
 135; garden of Justinian, 142; Frescati 
 (Cardinal Aldobrandini's), 145, 146 ; Palace 
 d'Est^ at Tivoli, ib. ; garden of simples at 
 Sienna, 150; at Padua, 170; at Grand 
 Duke's near Bologna, 153 ; Count Ulma- 
 rini's at Vincenza, 177; Count Giusti's at 
 Verona, 179 ; gardens of Palais Cardinal 
 at Paris, 203, 213. In England, at Wot- 
 ton, 17, 18, 19, 320 ; Lady Brook's at 
 Hackney, 227; Mr, Tombs's, ib. ; Physic 
 Gardens at Oxford, 231, 300, 384; Earl of 
 Pembroke's at Wilton, 233 ; orangery, &c., 
 at Bedington, 258, 579 ; at Albury, 349 ; 
 Lord Arlington's at Euston, 359 ; at Berke- 
 ky House, London, 369 ; Lord Lauder- 
 dale's at Ham, 402 ; Sir Henry Capel's at 
 Kew, ib.^ 451, 514; Countess of Bristol's 
 at Chelsea, 406 ; Earl of Essex's at Cashio- 
 bury, 415 ; Apothecaries' garden at Chelsea, 
 482 ; Sir \Vm. Temple's at Sheen, 574. 
 
 Gardner, Mrs., 208, 216. Garmus, Mr. Ham- 
 burgh, resident in England, 276. Garter, 
 Order of, St. George's day, 327, 328. Gas- 
 coyne, Sir Bern., 347,360, 390, Gassendus, 
 Vita, Peireschi, edit. (1657), 251. Gas- 
 sion, — , (soldier), monument for, at Cha- 
 renton, 202. Gauden, Sir Denis, 409, 
 550. Gaudy, Sir John, 470 ; Gaunt, John 
 of, 37, 235. Geere, Sir R., 461. Geneva, 
 191, 192, 193 ; town-house, 192 ; Campus 
 Martius, to., 193 ; religion, ib. ; college, 
 ib. Genoa, 73 — 76 ; palace of, 73 ; armoury, 
 Strada Nova, churches, 75 ; mole and 
 walls, 76; dress, inhabitants, ib. \ besieged 
 by the French, 457. Georgia, 419. Ger- 
 main, Lord, 2or. Germaine, Sir John, 578. 
 Gerrard, Lord, 291, 327. Gerrard, Lady, 
 196, 220, 226, 227, 228. 
 
 Ghent, 37. Ghetto at Rome, 113 ; at Venice, 
 174. Ghisi, palace of, 113, 137, 139. Gib- 
 bon, Grinling, carver, discovered at work 
 by Evelyn, and introduced to notice of the 
 King, 350. 351, 353; carvings by, 35^, 353. 
 400, 411, 417, 436, 461, 505, 506 ; Walpole s 
 account of him, 350; letter to Mr. Evelyn, 
 ib. Gibbs, Dr., 86, iig. Gifford, Capt., 
 561. Gilbert, lapidary, of Venice, 175. 
 Gildron, paintings, 200. Gilpin, Bernard, 
 504. Giolo, the painted prince, 571, 572. 
 Giorgione (Barbarelli), 258. Giotto (Am- 
 brogotto), 103. Giovanni, Sig., of Florence, 
 153. Giuseppe, Cavaliero, marbles by, 104. 
 Giusti, Count, his villa, 178. Gladiator, 
 statue of, 93. Glanville, Geo. (bro.-in-law 
 of Evelyn), 198, 225, 544, 583, 584. Glan- 
 ville, Mr., 544, 553, 576, 583. Glass-paint- 
 ing, 434. Gloucester Cathedral, 234. 
 Gloucester, Duke of, i66oj 268, 360, 579. 
 •ilow-worms, -iiaUed Luccioli, 157. God- 
 
 frey, Sir Edmundbury, m'lderof, 4o<i 
 409. 
 
 Godolphin, Francis (son of Lord), 402, 405, 
 478, 483, 571, 585. Godolphin, Dr. Henry, 
 411, 456, 517, 565. Godolphin, Sidney, 
 Lord Godolphin, 368, 382, 387, 391, 392, 
 393, 401, 405, 406, 408, 411, 459, 468, 473, 
 475, 478. 504. 505, 524. 542- 550. 553. 559. 
 561, 567, 568, 580, 584. Godolphin, Mrs., 
 34c, 368, 381, 382, 387, 389, 392, 398, 401, 
 407, 403, 406, 407, 459, 473, 478, 517, 553. 
 Godstone, 258, 397. Goffe, Dr., 25, 94. 
 GofFe, Col., 254. Golding, Capt., 305. 
 Gondolas, 159. Goode, Dr., 555. Good 
 Friday, 147. Goodman, Dr., 459. Good- 
 rick, Sir Hen., 568. Gore, Mrs., 574. 
 Goring, Col., 25, 31, 38. Goring house, 
 304- 373. 456- Gotefridi, Sig., 145. Governe, 
 Mdme. de, 501. Goutiere, caves so called, 66. 
 
 Grafton, Duke of, 341, 342, 368, 391, 4:2, 
 436, 451, 482, 498. Grafton, Duchess of, 
 368, 412, 448, 451, 452, 553, 555. Graham, 
 Col. James, 385, 398, 484, 490. Graham, 
 Capt., 391. (Graham, Mrs., 543, 565. 
 Grammont, M. de, 353. Granada, con- 
 quest of, a play by Dryden, 352. Granado 
 shot, trial of, 328. Grand Seignior's letters 
 to Popes, 182. Graunt, Mr., bills of mor- 
 tality, 383. Greatorex, mathematical in- 
 strument maker, 247. Grebner, prophetic 
 MSS., 239. Greek authors, lost works of, 
 267. Greek historians, 631. Green, Anne, 
 restored after hanging, 381. Greenbarrow, 
 painting by, 476. Greenwich, glass-house 
 3-t. 373* Greenwich Hospital, 561, 562, 
 565, 566 567, 568, 571, 573j 581, 583, 584, 
 5B7, 589. Greenwich, design of building 
 a new palace at, 279, 283. Greenwich, 
 Park, the elms planted, 295 ; the observa- 
 tory built, 330. 
 
 Gregory XHL, Pope, 93 ; chapel, lot. 
 Gregory XIV., Pope, 108. Gregory, Mr. 
 Justice, 56B. Grenadiers, introduction of, 
 400. Gresham, Sir T., statue preserved 
 in the fire of London, 321. Gresham Col- 
 lege, 270, 271, 286, 287, 288, 330. Grey, 
 Lord, 445, 480, 494, 504. Griffith, Prince, 
 204. Griffith, Capt., 217. Griffith, Lordj 
 553. Griffith, Sir John, 310. Grimaldi 
 family, 72. Grimaldi, Giovanni Fran., 136 
 Grindal, Abp., 579. Groombridge (Kent\ 
 223, 379. Grotius, Mons. (son of Hugo), 
 174. Grotto del Cane, Naples, 128. 
 Guarda-Damas, office of, 284. Guercino, 
 painting by, 156. Guesclin, Bertrand du, 
 his sepulchre, 41. Guildford, Countess of, 
 270. Guilford, Lord, 575. Guillotine, at 
 Rome, and Venice, similar to one in Eng- 
 land, 148, 167. Guise, Duke of, 353. Gun- 
 man, Capt., 388,474. Gunning;, Bp., 384; 
 sermons, 254, 257, 262, 263, 371, 388; cha- 
 racter, 371 ; on the Test, 406 ; death, 460, 
 Guttenberg, John, 31, Gwynn, NeH, 
 actress, 324, 353, 432, 463. 
 
 Hacker, regicide, executed, 268. Haerlem, 
 29, 245. Hague, the, 27, 31. Hale, Chief 
 Justice, ^55. Hales, Sir Ed\t'., 243, 244. 
 Hales, Sir Edw., Gov. of Dover Castle, 
 498 ; Lieut, of the Tower, 517. Halifax, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 6oi 
 
 Warquis of, 336, 350, 468, 522, 524. 530, 
 537. 560. Hall, patent of King's printer to, 
 ^fused, 498. Hall, Dr., Bp. of Norwich, 
 439. Hall, Dr., sermon of, 259, 341. Ham, 
 Duke of Lauderdale's house at, 402. Ham- 
 burgh, siege of, 503. Hamilton, Marquis, 
 217. Hamilton, Duke, trial (1648), igS ; 
 execution, 199 ; Hamilton, Duke (1660), 
 267, 522; marriageof hisson, 512. Hamil- 
 ton, Duke (1682), 437 ; taken (1690), 540. 
 Hamilton, Lady, and Geo. her husband, 
 388. Hamilton, Rev. Mr., 216. Ham- 
 mond, Dr., 22Q. Hampden, Mr., 423 ; 
 committed to the tower, 443, 453 ; tried, 
 455- Hampden, Mr. (1693), 554. 
 
 Hampton Court, palace at, 284, 535. Hang- 
 ing, woman restored after, 381. Hanmer, 
 Sir Thos., 252 ; portrait of, 462. Hanover, 
 Duke of, excluded from the British throne, 
 (1689), 535. Harbord, Sir Ch., 337, 366. 
 Harbord, ambassador, his death, 551. 
 Harcourt, Count d', 213. Harcourt, Earl 
 of, 534. Harcourt, Sir Simon, 582. Har- 
 lakenton, Mr., 244. Harley, Col. Ed., 404. 
 Harley, Speaker of the House of Com- 
 mons, 581. Harman, Capt.,314. Harrison, 
 Sir John, house near Hertford, 39. Har- 
 rison, Henry, executed, 547. Hartlib, 
 Sam., visit to, by Mr. Evelyn, 245. Har- 
 vey, Sir Dan., 314. Harvey, Dr., statue, 
 288 ; anniversary oration, 297. Harvey, 
 Mr., of Combe, 589. Harwood, Dr., 732, 
 Hatfield, palace at, 39. Hatton, Lord, 
 201, 204, 208, 252, 277 ; house at Kirby, 
 239. Hatton, Lady, 200, 254. Hatton, 
 Serj., 196. Hatton Garden, built over, 261. 
 Havannah, Governor of, his misfortunes, 
 251. Havre de Grace, citadel, 55 ; bom- 
 barded, 558. Hausse, M. de, his library, 
 &c, 52. Hawley, Lord, 360, Hayes, Sir 
 James, 368. Haywood, Sir Wm., 360. 
 Heard, Sir Isaac, 476. Hearth-tax, aboli- 
 tion of, 530. Heath, Mr., 218, 236. Heath, 
 Mrs., 334. Heaviside, Mr., 271. Heinsius, 
 Dan.,*3o; library, 445. Helen, St., statue, 
 102; monument, 106; chapel, 140. Hench- 
 man, Dr., 262. Henchman, Mr., 266. 
 
 Henrietta Maria, reception at Tours, 66, 201, 
 270, 289 ; averse to the Duke of York's 
 marriage, 326 ; arrival in England, 269 ; 
 visited Mr. Evelyn, 287 ; compliment to 
 him, 301. Henrietta, Princess (daughter 
 of Charles L), 269, 270; married to 
 Duke of Orleans, 360. Henry IV. of 
 France, statues of, 43, 53. Henry VII., 
 tmperor, 150. Henry VIII., King, an 
 'Office' of, 230; chimney piece belonging 
 to, 243. Henshaw, Thos., 76, 133, 140. 
 144, 147, 171, 173, 197, 200, 226, 246, 247, 
 250, 258, 267, 390 ; recommended for an 
 embassy by Mr. Evelyn, 268 ; and as 
 French secretary to the King, 277 ; his 
 history of saltpetre, ib. ; return from Den- 
 mark, 386, 416. 
 
 Hi:ralds' College, part of the Arundel Ubrary 
 presented to, 402. Herbert, Lord, 227. 
 Herbert, Lord (1665), 304. Herbert, Lord 
 Chief Justice, bold speech, 501 ; a commis- 
 sioner for ecclesiastical affairs, 502 ; his 
 house at Oatlands, 572 ; attainted, &c., ib. 
 
 Herbert, Sir Henry, 220, 303. Herbert, 
 Lady, 203, 208, Herbert, Adm., defeated 
 by the French, 534. Herbert, Mr. (nephew 
 of Lord H.), 433, 544. ' Hercules in Lydia,' 
 an opera, 164. Hercules, temple of, at 
 Milan, 267. Hereford, Lord Viscount, 393. 
 Hervey, John, 245, 402. Hervey, Mr., of 
 Betchworth, 583. Hewer, Dr., 229; con- 
 demned, 257 ; and executed, 358. Hewer, 
 Mr. , house at Clapham, 550. Hewson, 
 regicide, executed, 268. Heylin, Dr., ser- 
 mon by, 271. Hicks, Sir Wm., his house 
 at Ruckholt, 261. Hieroglyphics, stone 
 inscribed with, communicated by Mr. Eve- 
 \yn to Kircher, 171. Higgins, Sir Thos., 
 his daughter, 504. Higham, Rev. Mr,, 
 ^72 ; sermons by, 226, 241 ; his death, 372. 
 
 Highland Dragoons, 555; two Dutchmen 
 killed by one of them, ib. Hill, Mr., 
 F.R.S., 433, 438. Hippodrom at Rome, 
 134. Hoare, Rich., 200, 225. Hobbes, 
 406 ; visited by Evelyn, 213, 245 ; book 
 against his ' Leviathan,' 225. Hobson, 
 Mr., of Venice, merchant, 174. Hobson, 
 the Cambridge carrier, 240. Hoefnagle, 
 print by, 316. Holbein, Hans, 198, 228, 
 243, 270, 401, 402, 420, 451, 507. Holden, 
 Dr., vicar of Deptford, 389 ; character of, 
 371 ; sermon of, 473. Holder, Dr., 456. 
 Holland, Earl of, 694. Holland, Sir John, 
 322. Holland, Embassy to Wm. \\i. on 
 his accession, 513. Hollar, plan for re- 
 building London, 322. Holies, Lord Den- 
 zill, 272. Holloway, Judge, 517, 533. 
 Holmby House, rums of, 386. Holmes, 
 Sir Robert, 340, 562, 370, 378, 486. Holt, 
 Lord Chief Justice, 567. Holy Thursday 
 at Rome, 143. 
 
 Holywell, near Malvern Hills, 234. Homer, 
 ancient edition of, 572. Hondius, of Am- 
 sterdam, 29. Honywood, Lieut., 25. 
 Hooke, Mr., 295, 309 ; built Montagu 
 House, 389, 451. Hooper, Dr., sermon of, 
 429. Hope, Th., his seat called Deepden, 
 243. Hopton, Sir Arthur (brother of Lord 
 Hopton), 200, 485. Horatii and Curatii, 
 tomb of, 133, 134. Homeck, Dr.j 440; 
 sermon by nis son, 575. Horse baited to 
 death, 331. Horseheath, Lord Aliington's 
 house at, 346. Horsemanship, Duke of 
 Newcastle on, 327. Horses, Turkish or 
 Asian, brought over, 461. Hoskins, Sir 
 Jo., 419. President of Royal Society, 438. 
 Hospital, called Christ's Hospital, at Rome, 
 iig. Hotel Dieu, and Hotel de la Charite', 
 46. Hotham, commander of Hull, 2.';8, 
 Houblon, Mr., merchant, 406, 487 ; his 
 house on Epping Forest, 440. Sir John 
 Houblon, 567. Hough, Dr., made Bp. of 
 Worcester, 542. Houllies, a species of 
 fuel, 330. Hounslow Heath, camp on, 400, 
 500, 510. Household, comptroller of, pub- 
 lic dinners of, 294. Household, Roya\, 
 purveyors regulated, 438, 439. Howe, J., 
 complained of Bp. Burnet's book, 552 ; 
 made a baron, 581. 
 
 Howard, Anne, wife of Sir G. Silvius, jW, 
 397. Howard, Bernard, 286, 462. Howard, 
 Charles, 286, 297 ; house at Dorking, 245, 
 349. Howard, Craven, lawsuit against hu 
 
6o2 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 mather, 386. Howard, Dorothy, married 
 to Colonel Graham, 373, 385, 386, 395. 
 Howard, Edward, 286. Howard, Lord 
 George, (son of sixth Duke of Norfolk, by 
 Mrs Bickerton), 386, Howard, Henry 
 Lord (grandson of the Earl of Arundel, 
 afterwards sixth Duke of Norfolk), 262, 
 
 285, 286, 337, 339; at Padua, 173, 175; 
 villa at Albury, pictures, 243, 333 ; rom- 
 pounded a debt of his grandfather's of 
 ;£2oo,ooo, 285 ; permitted the Royal Society 
 to meet at Arundel House, and gave them 
 the Arundelian library, 326,339 ; presented 
 the Arundelian marbles to Oxford Univer- 
 sity at Mr. Evelyn's request, 178, 179, 333, 
 340, 341 ; created Lord on his embassy to 
 Morocco, 334, 340 ; conversation with Mr. 
 Evelyn respectmg marriage of his son, his 
 own connection with Mrs. Bickerton, his 
 house at Norwich, &c., 359, 360. Howard, 
 Henry (son of preceding, afterwards se- 
 venth Duke of Norfolk), 286, 297, 328. 
 Howard, Philip (afterwards Cardinal), 286, 
 344. Howard, Sir Robert (son of the Earl 
 of Berks), 324, 340, 344; play by, 325 ; im- 
 peached by Sir W. Pen, 336 ; ' an universal 
 pretender,' 442, 445; his house at Ashted, 
 457. Howard, Mr. Thos. (son of Sir Ro- 
 bert), 544, 582. Howard, Lord Thomas 
 (son of Henry, sixth Duke of Norfolk), 
 
 286, 297, 328, 342, 578. Howard, Lord, of 
 Escrick concerned in the Ryehouse plot, 
 and discovered his associates, 445 ; Alger- 
 non Sidney executed on his single witness, 
 453. Howard, Mrs. (widow of William, 
 fourth son of first Earl of Berkshire), and 
 her daughters, lawsuit against her son, 
 386. 
 
 Hoy, Dr., Mr. Evelyn's opinion of his 
 talents, 238. Huddleston, a Popish priest, 
 administered the sacrament to King 
 Charles 11. in extremis, 465. Hughes, 
 Marg., mistress of Ch. II., 324. Hugue- 
 nots, persecution of, in France, 492, 493, 
 4^8, 499, 501, 503, _5n, 513, 514 ; brief in 
 England for relieving, 498, 499 ; book ex- 
 posing the persecution burnt, 573 ; released 
 and driven out of France, 573 ; remorse, 
 and massacre of those who had conformed 
 to the Romish faith, ib. and 513. 
 
 Hull, town of, 238. Hume, Col., assumed 
 the name of Evelyn, 583. Humorists, aca- 
 demy of, at Rome, 135. Hungerford, Ed., 
 of Cadenham, 229, 233. Huntingdon, Earl 
 and Countess of, 346. Huntingdon, town 
 of, custom at, 239. Huntingtoure, Lord, 
 393. Hurcott, manor of (Worcester), 196. 
 Hurt, Mr. , purchased Warley Magna, 244. 
 Observations relative to husbandry, 428. 
 Huss, John, medal of his martyrdom, 461. 
 HuEsey, Peter, of Sutton, 349 ; his great 
 attention to husbandry, 428. Hussey, Mr., 
 his attachment to Mr. Evelyn's daughter, 
 and death, 481. Hussey, Mr., married 
 dau. of Geo._ Evelyn, 559. Hutcheson, 
 Lady, 346. Huygens, Constantine, 297 ; 
 brief notice of, 356. Hyde, Dr., brother 
 of Sir Henry, &c., 123, 341. Hyde, Anne, 
 married to James Duke of York, 268, 270 
 504 : Hyde, Lady Frances, 373. Hyde, 
 
 Lady Harrietta, 316. Hyde Park, toll at, 
 
 215 ; review in, 498. Hyldiard, Henry, of 
 
 East Horseley, 226, 241, 544 ; his sons, 
 igS, 217, 
 
 Jackson, Mr., heir to Mr. Pepys, 586. Ja- 
 maica, design of the Dutch upon (1673), 
 370 ; earthquake at (1692), 551 ; profanely 
 mimicked at the Southwark Fair, 551. 
 James, Duke of York (afterwards K. 
 James 11. ), 202, 306, 307, 329, 349, 365, 
 366, 368, 377, 380, 389 ; discourse with 
 Evelyn, 280 ; visits him at Deptford, 282 ; 
 account of engagement with the Dutch 
 (1665), 305, 306 ; reception of Evelyn, 311; 
 opposed laying up men-of-war, 330 ; for- 
 bears receiving the sacrament, 363, 372 ; 
 neglects henceforward to attend the Protes- 
 tant worship, 389 ; Commons vote against, 
 for recusancy, 406; libellous papers, &c, 
 against, 407 ; his case as to the succession, 
 426 ; remarkable escape from shipwreck, 
 435 ; office of admiral, &c., restored to, 
 457 ; his account of the last hours of 
 Charles II., 464, 465 ; speech in council on 
 his accession, 465, 466, and note ; pro- 
 claimed, 467, 468 ; goes publicly to mass, 
 and opens a popish oratory at Whitehall, 
 463, 469 ; lets to farm duties of Excise, 
 Customs, &c., 468; coronation, 475; his 
 first speech to Parliament, 4^3 ; discourse 
 respecting miracles, second sight, reliques, 
 485, 486 ; reception at Portsmouth, 486, 
 487 ; remarks on his character, 527 ; 
 speech to Parliament, 493 ; anniversary of 
 his accession, 496 ; birthday (1696), 503 ; 
 speech to a deputation from Coventry, 
 thanking him for liberty of conscience, 511 ; 
 alarm at the Dutch fleet, 514 ; enjoins the 
 reading of his declaration for liberty of 
 conscience, and threatens the six bishops, 
 515 ; consternation at the landing of the 
 Prince of Orange, and proceedings there- 
 upon, 520, 522, 523 ; his flight, return to 
 Whitehall, and second flight, 524 ; com- 
 pared to Maxentius, 527; protest, &c. , 
 against his having vacated the government, 
 529, 531, 533 ; assisted by France in his 
 Irish expedition, 530 ; in Ireland, 533 ; 
 Scots' reasons for setting him aside, 529 ; 
 surprised Londonderry, 534 ; declaration of 
 pardon, 535 ; defeat at the Boyne, 540 ; 
 letter to Privy Council and the Queen, re- 
 specting the pregnancy of his Queen, 549 ; 
 declaration of pardon, and submitting all 
 differences to Parliament, 553 ; intended 
 invasion of England, 564 ; Oates's book 
 against him, 565 ; his death, 582. 
 
 James, Mr., 544. Janicius, Dr., physician 
 171. January 30, the first fast on, 271 
 Janus Quadnfrontis, temple of, 83. Jar- 
 dine Royale, at Paris, 47. ' Icon Animarum,' 
 notice of that work, 223. Jefferles, Judge, 
 Lord Chief Justice, 450, 452 ; Baron of 
 Wem, 478 ; Lord Keeper, ib., 484 ; made 
 Lord Chancellor, character of him, 492 ; a 
 Commissioner for ecclesiastical affairs, 502. 
 JelTreys, Dr., minister of Althorp, 518. 
 Jepkins, Sir Leoline, 334,. Jeruuu, Mr. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 603 
 
 Henry, 328, 357. Jeronimo, painting by, 
 52. Jerseyj Earl of, Lord Chamberlain, 
 578. Jesuitism, Mystery of, in three vo- 
 Jumes, the second translated and published 
 by Mr. Evelyn, 302, and note; Mr. Evelyn 
 thanked by Charles II. for it, 303. Jesuits, 
 church, schools, &c., at Antwerp, 33, 34 ; 
 church and convent at Paris, 45 ; church, 
 &c., at Rome, gi, 109 : English college at 
 Rome, 113, 136. Jesus College, Cambridge, 
 240, 417.^ Jews at Rome, ceremony of 
 circumasion, 113, 148. Jews at Venice, 
 marriage, 174. Imperati, Ferdinando, 
 exotic plants of, 125. Impostors, four, 
 history of, by Evelyn, 339. Inchiquin, 
 Marquess, 209. Inchiquin, Lord, Gov. of 
 Tangiers, 417. Indian Ambassadors (1682), 
 435) 436- Indian Queen, a play, 295. In- 
 firmary for sick and wounded, Evelyn's 
 plan for, 312. Inglish, Esther, beautiful 
 writing of, 23a Ingoldsby, Sir — , house 
 at York, 237. Innocent X., his election, 
 83, 84 ; procession to St. John de Lateran, 
 108. Johnson, Sir — , e.xecuted at Tyburn, 
 543. Johnson, _ Mr., author of 'Julian,' 
 455- Jones, Sir Hen., 357. Jones, Sir 
 Wm., 423, 424. Jones, Mr., of Gray's Inn, 
 355- Jones, regicide, executed, 268. Jo- 
 sephus, history of, on the bark of trees, 
 1B2. Jovius, Paulus, museum of, 79. Joy- 
 lifle, Dr., physician, 198, 250, 253. Ipswich, 
 249. 393> 394- 
 
 Ireland, remarks respecting natural history, 
 382 ; map by Sir Wm. Petty, 332 ; critical 
 state of (1689), 530, 533, 534 ; parliamentary 
 proceedings respecting forfeited estates 
 (1700), 576, 578 ; Lord Galway removed 
 from Lord Lieutenancy, 582. Ireton, 
 Henry, regicide, murders by, at Colchester, 
 220, 248 ; death, 217 ; funeral, 218 ; disin- 
 terment, 271. Ironmongers' Hall, dinner 
 at (1671), 357. Isaac, Mons., dancing 
 master, 432, 471. Isis, statue of, in Pa- 
 lazzo Farnese, 118. Italian opera, intro- 
 duction of into England, 377. Italian 
 singer, female, great encouragement given 
 to (in 1703), 585. 
 
 Julio Romano, 52. Jupiter, temples of, at 
 Rome, 87, 88 ; at Terracina, 121. Joust 
 and tournament at Rome, 144. Justel, 
 Mons., 454, 455, 460 ; arranged the library 
 at St. James's, 543. Justice, statue of, at 
 Florence, 152. Justinian, gardens of, 142 ; 
 statue of, ib. Juxon, Abp., 271, 
 
 Keepe, Hen., pamphlet by, 485. Keffler, 
 Dr,, 316. Keightley, Thomas, cousin of 
 Mr. Evelyn, 226. Keighlley, Mrs., her 
 green old age, 426. Reisers Graft, at 
 Amsterdam, 28. Kello, Rev. Bartholomew, 
 230. Kemp, Mr., of South Mailing, 196. 
 Ken, Bp. of Bath and Wells, his attendance 
 on Charles II. in his sickness, 464 ; sermons 
 by, against Roman Catholics, &c. (1686-7), 
 485, 498, 507, 508, 514, 525 ; one of the six 
 bishops who petitioned against reading 
 declaration for liberty of conscience, 515 ; 
 sent to theTower, 516 ; tried and acquitted, 
 517 ; his scruples on K William's accession, 
 531 ; aeprived, 543 ; much beloved in his 
 
 diocese, ib. Kendal, Dr., 229. Ker.drick, 
 Alderman, a fanatic Lord Mayor, 220, 
 Kensington Palace, purchased by King 
 William, 537; fire at, 547; pictures, &c., 
 565. Kensington, Mr. Wises house and 
 gardens, 587. Kent, Earl of, 296. Kent, 
 Countess of, 343. Kent, rising in (1648), 
 200. Kentish men imprisoned for petition 
 to Pariiament (1701), 73. Kew, Sir H. 
 Capel's house at, 402, 451, 514. Keys, T., 
 executed for high treason, 565. 
 
 Kidd, Captain, pirate, 575. Kildare, Lord, 
 35o> 351- Killing no murder, by Col- 
 Titus, 340. Kilmorey, Lord, 258. King 
 of England, speech in (1686), asserting him 
 to be absolute, 501. King, Dr., relieved 
 Charles II. in apoplexy, 463. King, Dr., 
 Abp. of Dublin, 80. King, Edward, exe- 
 cuted for high treason, 565. King, Rev. 
 Mr. , of Ashted, 258. King's College Chapel, 
 Cambridge, 239. King's Evil, royal touch 
 for, 265 ; great press, 442. King's house- 
 hold, ancient supply of, 270. King-street, 
 Westminster, design of King Charles II. 
 respectiii,!^ it, 559. Kingston, Evelyn 
 Pierrepoint, Earl of, 200, 430, 510, 571. 
 Kinsale, surrender of, 542. Kirby, seat of 
 Lord Hatton, 229. Kirby, Capt., court- 
 martial on, and shot, 585. Kircher, Father. 
 105, 109, 139, 243 ; his attentions to Mr. 
 Evelyn at Rome, 91 ; communications by 
 Mr. Evelyn on his John 'Obeliscus Pamphi- 
 ImSj' 171, 247. 
 
 Kiviet, Sir John, account of, 326 ; his proposal 
 to wharf the Thames with brick, 327, 340 ; 
 project relative to draining, 347. Knatch- 
 bull, Sir Norton, sermon, &c., by, 293. 
 KnatchbuU, SirT., commissioner of privy 
 seal, 29. Kneller, Sir Godfrey, his portrait 
 of Mr. Evelyn, 534 ; of Bp. Burnet, 534. 
 Knife -swallowers, 30, 286, 389. Knight, 
 Mr., of Northamptonshire, 226. Knight, 
 Serjeant- surgeon, 364. Knight, Mrs., 
 singer, and mistress of Charles II., 261, 
 324 ; compass of her voice, 380. Knox. 
 Vicesimus, and Thomas, masters of Tun- 
 bridge school, 306. Koningsmark, procures 
 Mr. Thynn's murder, 433. 
 
 Lac Tigridis, drug: so called, 297. Lacy, 
 comedian, performance of, 290. La Doree, 
 Mons., 220; Lago di Agnano, Naples, 
 128. Lago di Garda, 178. Lago Mag- 
 giore, 184. Lake, Bp., 525 ; petitioned 
 James 11. against reading the Declaration 
 of Liberty of Conscience, 515 ; sent to the 
 Tower, 516 ; tried and acquitted, 516 ; 
 absents himself from Parliament, 531 . 
 Lakin, Dan., pamphlet by, 280. Lam- 
 bard, Mr., estate atWestram, 226. Lam- 
 beth Palace assaulted by a mob (1640), 23. 
 Lamedrati, sea-horses by, 8r. Lamot, 
 Mons., sermon of, 510. Lamplugh, Dr. 
 sermon of, 373. Lancaster, Dr., vicar of 
 St. Martin's, 551, 576, 577. Lane, Sir T., 
 and Greenwich Hospital, 568._ Lane, Mrs., 
 loyalty of, 217. Lanfranco, Giovan., works 
 of, 94, 122, 137, 140. Langdale, Sir Mar- 
 maduke, 202. Langham, Lady, a kins- 
 womao of Mr. Evelyn, 242. Laosdown, 
 
6o4 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lord, Count of German empire ; his death, 
 461, 582. 
 
 Laocoon and his sons, statue of, 116. Lash- 
 ford, Sir R., 349. Last Supper, by Leo- 
 nardo da Vinci, 181. Lavaran, Madame, 
 singer, 211. Laud, Abp,, Chan, of Oxford, 
 2j ; his palace attacked by the rabble, 23 ; 
 gift to St. John's Coll., Oxford, 230. Lau- 
 derdale, Duke of, 292, 295, 354, 384 ; his 
 house at Ham, 402 ; hbels against, 407. 
 Lauretto, Cavalier, of Rome, singer, 148. 
 Law against Lovers, a tra^i-comedy, 290. 
 Lawrence, Sir J., pageant as Lord Mayor, 
 301. Lawrence, Dr., master of Balliol 
 College, 20, 21. Lawrence, President of 
 Oliver's council, 252. Laws, a Scotchman, 
 duel fought by, 556. 
 
 Lawyers, &c., required to renounce James 
 II'i 550- Lazzari (called Bramanti), pa- 
 laces built by, 136, 140; church built by, 
 180. Lea, Mr. Bohun's house, &c., at, 436, 
 448. League and covenant abjured, 287. 
 Leake, Dr., his daughter, 390. Leather- 
 head, picture at the Swan Inn, 327. Le 
 Chat, Mons., physician, 192. Lechmere, 
 Mr. Baron, and Greenwich Hospital, 568. 
 Lee, Sir Henry, 299: Sir Thomas, 423. 
 Leech, Mr. and Mrs., 226, 258. Leeds, 
 Duke of, 362 ; commissioner of Greenwich 
 Hospital, 561 ; subscription to it, 567. 
 Leeds Castle, Kent, prisoners kept at, 
 270, 313, 325, 331. Leeward Islands, Sir 
 C. Wheeler's indiscreet government, 360, 
 362. Le Febure, Mons. , chemist, 195. 
 L^gg, George, master of the ordnance, 441. 
 Legg, Mr. VV., of the Bedchamber, 332. 
 Leg&i Col., 487. Leghorn, account of, 
 78. Leicester, city of, 235. Leicester, 
 Earl of (the great), 439 ; vase once be- 
 longing to, 241. Leicester, Earl of, house 
 at Penshurst, 223. Lei^hton, Sir Elias, 
 project of, 337. Leith Hill, Surrey, 17. 
 
 Lely^ Sir Peter, 258, 339, 441. Le Neve, 
 painter, 198. Lennier, Jerome, paintings 
 possessed by, 223. Lent (1665), observance 
 of, and recommended, closing the theatres, 
 127. Leon^enus, Athelsteinus, anato- 
 mical preparations by, 174. X<eopoId, 
 Prince, collection of paintings, 223. Leslie, 
 Lady Jane (afterwards Countess of Rothes), 
 583. L'Estrange, Sir Roger, 246, 377 ; 
 his Observatory, 475. Lewen, Samuel, 
 and Sir William, 475. Leyden, 30, 31. 
 Leyden, Lucas Van, painting by, 52 ; 
 prints, 70. Liancourt, Count de, palace, 
 garden, and pictures, 51, 52. 'Liberty 
 and Servitude,' a translation, 197. Ligne, 
 Prince de. Ambassador from Spain, 267. 
 Ligon, Capt., 337. Lilly, astrologer, 574. 
 Lima, earthquake at, 516. Linch, Sir 
 Thomas, (^vernor of Jamaica, 353, 370, 389. 
 
 Lincoln, and Cathedral, 238. Lincolnshire 
 Fens, 239. Lincoln's Inn, revels at (1661), 
 281. Lincoln's-inn-fields, theatre in, 270 ; 
 Mr. Povey's house, 297. Lindsay, Earl 
 of, 203. Lindsay, Lord, 19. Lionberg, 
 Mons., Swedish resident, 437. Lisle, Sir 
 G., put to death by Ireton, 220, 248. 
 Lisle, Lord (son of E. of Leicester), his 
 house at Sheen, 402. Litchfield, Lady, 
 
 daughter of Charles II., 43a. Littler, Mr., 
 vicar of Deptford, 260. Littleton, Sir 
 Charles, and his house at Sheen, 514. 
 
 Lloyd, Sir Richard, 200, 218. Lloyd, Dr., 
 afterwards Bp. of St. Asaph, attended the 
 English Court in France, 216 ; sermons of, 
 389, 413 ; Bp. of St. Asaph, 334, 408, 416, 
 418, 422, 427, 480, 493, 525, 532, 539, 541 ; 
 petitioned against reading Declaration of 
 Liberty of Conscience, 515 ; sent to the 
 Tower, 516 ; tried and acquitted, 517 ; his 
 interpretation of prophecies, 5^3, 540, 541; 
 sermon on the deliverance of the Church of 
 England, 536; the clergy ejected, 571. 
 Lloyd, Mr., 370. 
 
 Locke, John, secretary to council of trade 
 and plantations, 370, 377. Lockhart, Lord, 
 ambassador to France, 377. Locks on 
 river Brenta in Italy, 165. Loftus, Mr., 
 416. Loggan, 300. Lombardius, Tullius, 
 sculptor, 166. Lombart, engraver, 22S. 
 
 London, pestilence (1625 and 1636), 18, 20; 
 procession of Charles I. through, on open- 
 ing the Parliament, 22 ; tumults, 22, 23 ; 
 processions on opening the Long Parlia- 
 ment, 23 ; on proclamation of peace (1642), 
 38 ; cross at Cheap destroyed, 39 ; pulpits 
 of the churches filled by mechanics, 249; 
 Lord Mayor's Show(i66i), 279 ; (1662), 289; 
 (1664), 301 ; (1686), 504 ; draught of an Act, 
 against the nuisance of smoke in, 282; 
 fast on Jan. 15 (1662), ib. ; commission for 
 regulating buildings, 284, 286 ; present cf 
 the City to the Queen of Charles II., 284 ; 
 plague (1665), 308, 309 ; fast on account ofj 
 308 ; dreadful increase of, 309, 310, 312 ; 
 abates, 311, 313; mayor congratulates 
 Charles II. after the plague, ib. ; the grea 
 fire in (1666), 317 — 321 ; alarm in, of the 
 Dutch having landed, 321 ; survey of the 
 ruins, and plans for rebuilding the city by 
 Dr. Wren and Mr. Evelyn, 302 ; fast on 
 occasion of the conflagration, the plague, 
 and war, 302 ; alarm on the Dutch enter- 
 ing the Thames, 327, 328 ; rebuilding of 
 the city begun, 34,3 ; the Pope burnt in 
 effigy (16^3), 377 ; petition of the Corpora- 
 tion to his Majesty on the quo warranto 
 against their charter, and submission to 
 h'.s pleasure, 427 ; their privileges dimin- 
 ished, ib.; and judgment entered against 
 them, 449; inscription on the Monument 
 against the Papists erased, 479 ; rejoicings, 
 &c., on James II. 's birthday, forbid, 503; 
 rejoicings on the accession of William and 
 Mary, 529 ; charter of the city restored, 
 
 540- 
 London frigate blown up, 304, 306, 625 ; a 
 new frigate so called, launched, 314. Lon- 
 don Institution, house of, in Old Jewry, 
 370 ; mansion erected for, in Moorfields, 
 ib.\ London, Mr., gardener to Sir Chr. 
 Wren, 571. London, William, letter to, on 
 Barbadoes, 186. Londonderry surprised 
 by James II., 534 ; Schomberg sent to its 
 relief, 535, 536. Longford, Lord, 400, 406 
 Longueville, Duke of, 353. Lothian, Lord, 
 248, 267. Lottery in (1693), 554 ; state lot- 
 tery (1694"^, 556, 558 ; frequency of lotteries, 
 (1696), 566 ; suppression of (1699), 573. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 605 
 
 Loadune, nuns of, impostures practised by, 
 348. 'Love and Honor,' a tragi-comedy, 
 280. ' Love in a Tub," a play, 469. Love, 
 Captain, duel fought by, 480. Louis XII., 
 equestrian statue of, at Blois, 62. Louis 
 XIII., his sepulchre, 41. Louis XIV. per- 
 forms in a masque, 210 ; procession to Par- 
 liament, when out of his minority, 213, 214; 
 his ambitious career, 446, 457, 501, 551. 
 Louvre, at Paris, described, 47. Lower, 
 Dr., physician, 558. Lowman, Mr., of the 
 Marshalsea, 310. Lowndes, Mr., secretary 
 to the Treasury, 561, 568. Lowther, Sir J., 
 308, 433 ; subscription to Greenwich Hos- 
 pital, 567. Loyola, Ignatius, his burial- 
 place, 123. Lubicer, his great skill on the 
 violin, 246. 
 Lucas, Sir C, put to death by Ireton, 220. 
 248. Lucas, Lord, 537, 543. Lucas, Rev. 
 Mr., 560. Lucca, city of, 150. Lucretia, 
 Signora, a Greek lady, 200. Lucretius, 
 first book traiislated into verse, by Evelyn, 
 247; his own remarks upon it, 247. Lu- 
 crme, lake of, 128. Ludovisio, Prince, his 
 villa at Rome. 92, 93. Lumley, Lord, 311, 
 479) 509- LlMnley, family of, 258. Lut- 
 tereli, Mr., painting by, 558. Luxembourg, 
 palace and gardens, 5b, 57, 58. Luxem- 
 bourg, surrender of, to French, 457, 569. 
 Lyons, city of, account of, 68, 69, 194. Lyra, 
 Don Emmanuel de, 399. Lytcott, Mr., 496. 
 
 Macclesfield, Lot-d, his death, 555. Mack- 
 worth, Sir Humphrey, 468. Mackenzie, 
 Sir George, his Essay on Solitude answered 
 by Mr. Evelyn. 326, 539 ; Lord Advocate 
 of Scotland, 52-., 526; particulars respect- 
 ing Scotland by, 539. Maddox, Mr., tetter 
 of Evelyn conta'nmg hints for his travels, 
 599. Madrid, palace of French king, 51, 
 203. Maestricnt, siege represented at 
 Windsor, 380. Magdalen College and 
 Chapel, Oxford, P3T, 300. Magniani, Mar- 
 quis, of Bologna, 156. Maimbourg, Father, 
 pretended letter of Duchess of York, pub- 
 lished by, 435. Maison, President, his 
 palace near Paris, 201. Maison Rouge, 
 near Paris, 54. Makins, Mrs. Bathsua, 
 school of, 200. Mailing, South, church 
 consecrated, 18 ; impropriations, 196. 
 Malphigi, Signior, presents a treatise to 
 the Royal Society, 339. Malta, earth- 
 quake at(i693), 552. Malvern Hills, view, 
 234. Manchester, Earl, Lord Chamber- 
 lain, 270, 301. 
 
 Mancini, Signior, of Rome, 136. Mander, 
 Dr., master of Baliol College, 572, 580. 
 Mann, Mr. , recorder of I pswich, 393. 
 Manners, general depravity of, 537 ; so- 
 ciety forreformation of, 575, 577. Manton, 
 Dr., presbyterian, sermon of, 257. Manu- 
 scripts in the Bodleian library, 230. Marble, 
 magazine for, at Lambeth, 391. Marcello, 
 Dr., of Verona, 178. Marchand, Florian, 
 the water-spouter, 205. Marden, Sir Ro- 
 bert Clayton's seat at, 396. Marius, Caius, 
 victory of, 140, 177, 178. Marlborough, 
 town of, 228. 
 
 Marlborough, Lord (afterwards Duke), dis- 
 missed ijrom office for extortion, 547 ; de- 
 
 serted James II. who had advanced him, 
 ib. ; master of ordnance, 580 ; his honours 
 and emoluments, and reflections on his 
 character, 585 ; marriage of his daughters, 
 571, 585 ; death of his son, 585 ; instance 
 of his attention to Mr. Evelyn, 590. Marl- 
 borough, Sarah, Duchess of, 283, 380,381, 
 548,588. MarmoraOxon. ArundeHana,33i. 
 See Arundel, Evelyn, Howard. Mar- 
 moustier, abbey of, 64. Mame, famous 
 bridge over, 52. Marriages, burials, &c., 
 tax on, 561. Marseilles, account of, 70, 
 71 ; Galley-slaves, 579. Marshall, 200. 
 Marshall, Mr., book of flowers made by, 
 436. Marsham, Sir John, 296 ; his ' Chro- 
 nicus Canon,' &c., 262. Martegna, An- 
 drea, paintings by, 248. Martin, Mr., 
 583. Mary, Qu. of Scots, her burial-place, 
 239. Mary, Queen (consort of William 
 III.), 390 ; married to the Prince of 
 Orange, 397 ; her conduct on her accession 
 to the crown, 529 ; her cabinets and col- 
 lection of china, 553 ; her death and fune- 
 ral, 559 ; behaviour in her sickness, par- 
 ticulars of her character, ib., 560. 
 
 Mason, Dr., his house, 223. Masques ai 
 Charles II. 's court, 303, 32?. Massy, Sir 
 Edward, Governor of Jamaica, 268. Mas- 
 tiff dogs draw pedlars' carts in Holland, 
 37. Matthsei Horti, at Rome, 135. Mau- 
 rice, Prince, 25. Maxwell, Mr., 401. 
 !May, Hugh, architect, works of, 298, 317, 
 353i 369, 415, 437- May 29, festival on, 
 276, Maynard, Mr., serjeant, 423. May- 
 nard, Lord, comptroller of household, 468- 
 Mazarine, Cardinal, 209, 228, 271 ; alluded 
 to, 271. Mazarine, Duchess of, mistress 
 of Charles II., 391, 467; her death, and 
 account of her, 573. Mazzotti, excellent 
 in Pietra Comessa, 153. Meadows, Sir 
 Wm., marriage of his son, 568. Meath, 
 Bishop of, 1656, poverty of, 247. Medals, 
 writers and others skdled in the subject, 
 387, 692. 
 
 Mede, Mr., interpretation of prophecy, 534, 
 540. Medici, palace of, at Rome, 86. 
 Medici, Cosmo di, Duke, statue of Justice 
 erected by, 79, 229 ; equestrian statue of, 
 81. Medici, Cosmo II., improved the 
 Palace of Pitti, 79 ; statue of, 229. Medici, 
 Cardinal, ambassador from the Duke of 
 Florence to Rome, 144 ; fireworks at his 
 palace, 145. Medicis, Maria de. Queen 
 Mother (1641), 31. Meeres, Sir Thomas, 
 316, 407. Meggot, Dr., Dean of Win- 
 chester, 316, 456, 485, SOI ; the sermons 
 of, 506. Melford, Lord, pictures belonging 
 to, sold, 553. Mell, Mr., musician, 223, 
 246. Melos, Don Francisco de, 328, 370. 
 Mercator, Nicholas, mathematical instru- 
 ments by, 317. Mercers' Chapel (London), 
 320 ; Italian sermon at, 197. Merceria, at 
 Venice, 160. Mercure, Mons., performe* 
 on the lute, 195. Mercury, a ring said to 
 be a projection of, 328. Meret, Dr., of 
 the College of Physicians, 288. Merrick^, 
 Mr., of Parson's Green, 217. Merick, Sir 
 William, 294. Merwell, Dr., 20. Mertott 
 College, election to the Wardenship, 27U 
 Messeroy, Mons. , of Jersey, 266. Metel" 
 
6o6 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ills, sep-ulchre of, at Rome, 135. Meteor, 
 one which appeared (1680), 426. Mewes, 
 Dr., of St. John's College, Oxford, 343. 
 Michell, Robert, estate at North Stoake, 
 273. Mickleham, notice of, 244. Middle- 
 ton, Lord, 329 ; Secretary of State, 459, 
 509. Middleton, Col., 355, 357. Middle- 
 ti,n, Sir Hugh, New River of, 501. Mid- 
 dleion, Mrs., dau, of Sir R. Needham, 447. 
 Middleton, Dr., Italian sermon by, 197. 
 Milan, description of, 180 — 183 ; cathedral, 
 180 ; church of St. Celso, 181 ; the Great 
 Hospital, ib. ; Temple of Hercules, ib. ; 
 monastery of Madona della Gratia, and 
 
 Eicture of Leonardo da Vinci, ib. ; Am- 
 rosian Library, ib. ; church of St. Am- 
 brose, 182 ; citadel, ib. ; Signior Septalla's 
 curiosities, 183 ; civilities of a Scots colo- 
 nel, and melancholy accident which befell 
 him, lA, 184. Millenium, delusion respect- 
 ir>&i 556- Miller, Rev. Mr,,vicar of Effing- 
 ham, 551. Millington, Sir 'I'homas, 440. 
 Milton, Christopher, brother of John, 501. 
 Mingrelia, women of, 419. Minn, Mr., of 
 Woodcote, 196. Mint, Committee for re- 
 gulating, 294, 295, 314. Mirandola, Picus, 
 343, 408. Misenus, ruins of the city of, 
 131. Mochi, Fra., statue by, 102. Mo- 
 dena, Duchess of, 377. Modiford, Sir 
 Thomas, Governor of Jamaica, 355, 356, 
 357, 380. Mohun, Lord, tried and ac- 
 quitted, 551. Molino, Signior, Doge of 
 Venice, 173. Molino, Conde de, Spanish 
 *imbassador, 307. Mollen, famous for 
 making lutes, 156. Monconys, Mons., 348. 
 Money, scarcity of, in England in (1696), 
 568. Monk, George, afterwards Duke of 
 Albemarle, his march from Scotland, 263 ; 
 broke down the gates of the city, ib, ; 
 inarches to Whitehall, and convenes the 
 old Parliament, ib. ; letter of Mr. Evelya 
 to, 130. Monk, Dr., Bishop of Hereford, 
 the funeral of, 280. 
 Monmouth, Duke of, 201, 348, 371, 380, 411, 
 
 429, 465, 480 ; his unexpected return from 
 Holland, and great popularity, 413 ; pro- 
 clamation against, 444 ; surrenders, 451 ; 
 pardoned, and banished from Whitehall, 
 4.52 ; sets up his standard as King, 478 ; 
 proclaimed traitor, 479 ; defeated and 
 \aken prisoner, ib. ; committed to the 
 i'ower and executed, 481 ; acknowledged 
 Vis base extraction, ib. ; character of him, 
 /J82 ; account of his mother, 201, 482, a7id. 
 note. Monmouth, Duchess of, 371, 390, 
 
 430, 481 ; sermons by her chaplain, 537. 
 Monmouth, Earl of, 561. Monslreuil, brief 
 description of, 41. Slontague, Lord Vis- 
 count, 262, 309 ; Montague, Lord, trial 
 (1693 — 1696), concerning estate left by 
 Duke of Albemarle, 555, 566, 582; sub- 
 scription to Greenwich Hospital, 567. 
 Montalbano, Dr., discoverer of Phos- 
 phorus, 156. Monte Feltre, Count and 
 Countess, 448. Montford the player, mur- 
 der of, 551. Montfort, Lord, 347. Mont- 
 gomeryshire, fiery exhalation in, 555, 
 Mont Louis, dwellings of inhabitants, 68. 
 Montrose, Mart^uis of, 212. Monument 
 (London), buildmg of, 427 ; words oa 
 
 against the Papists erased, 479. Mooie, 
 Bishop of Ely, his fine library, 573. 
 Mordaunt, Mr., acquitted (1658), 257. Mor- 
 daunt. Lord Viscount, 251, 263, 270, 271, 
 2^3, 280, 292 : case between him and Capt. 
 Taylor investigated by the House of Com- 
 mons, 325 ; Mr. Evelyn a trustee for, 372 
 Mordaunt, Lady, her charity, 325, 372, 
 
 388, 389, 401 ; Mr. Evelyn a trustee for, and 
 executor, 408, 413, 416. Mordaunt, Lady 
 Mary, 380, 372, note. Mordaunt, Lady, 
 house at Ashsted, 310, 511. More, Sir 
 Thomas, 695. Morgan, Mr., botanist, 258. 
 Morgan, Col., exploits at Panama, 356, 
 357. 380. Morghen, Raphael, fine en- 
 graving by, 181. Morice, Mr., Secretary, 
 278, 308, 326 ; library, 2^, 327. Morice, 
 Mons., professor at Geneva, 193, 270. Mo- 
 rine, Mons., his garden and collection of 
 Insects, 59, 210. Morison, Dr., professor 
 of botany, 384. Morland, Sir Samuel, his 
 inventions, 331, 395, 442 ; his father, 331 ; 
 house at Lambeth, 429 ; inventions to 
 assist his blindness, 562. 
 
 Morley, Agnes, school founded by, ig. Mor- 
 ley. Dr. Geo. (afterwards Bp. of Win- 
 chester), 202, 298, 314, 388 ; coronation 
 sermon by, 274 ; letter of Mr. Evelyn to, 
 on the charge against him respecting the 
 Duchess of York's deserting the Church of 
 England, 435. Morley. Co!., one of the 
 Council of State (1652), 220, 242; Mr. 
 Evelyn attempts to bring him over to the 
 King, 262 ; the colonel hesitates, and loses 
 the honour of restoring the King, 262, 
 263 ; procures pardon, ib. ; Evelyn's nego- 
 tiations with respecting the King's restora- 
 tion, 416; reflections, 430. Morocco, am- 
 bassador, audience of (1682), 430 ; enter- 
 tainment given to, 432 ; account of him 
 and his retinue, ib. ; admitted of the Royal 
 Society, 435. Morosini, ambassador from 
 Venice to France, 213. Morris, Mr., 
 scrivener, 397. Morton, Countess of, 202, 
 208. Moru-S, I\Ions. , an eloquent preacher, 
 282. Moscow burnt (1699), 574. Moulins, 
 account of, 67. Moulms, M., surgeon, 
 199. Mountague, Duke of, his palace at 
 Bloomsbury (now the British Museum), 
 
 389, 413 ; description of it, 451 ; burnt to 
 the ground, 496. Mountague, Mr., at- 
 torney, his son married to Mary Evelyn, of 
 Woodcot, 346 ; her death, 513. Mounte- 
 bank, at Rome, trick of, 147. Mowbray, 
 Lord (son of Earl of Arundel), 171. 
 
 Muccinigo, Sign.,_ Venetian ambassador 
 343) 350 ; entertained by Mr. Evelyn, 337 ; 
 his entry into London, ib. Mulberry 
 garden, 228 ; Mulgrave, Lord, 370, 411J 
 553i 554- Mundus Muliebris, a poem by 
 Evelyn, 471. Muran, near Venice, ac- 
 count of, 171. Murillo, painting by, 45. 
 Muro torto at Rome, 139. Murray, Sir 
 I^obert, one of the founders of the Royal 
 Society, 271, 275, 287, 295, ^97, 303, 346, 
 373> 715- Muschamp, Mr., 226. Mus- 
 grave, Sir Philip, 202. Musical instru- 
 ment, a new invention, 297. Muscovy 
 ambassador, audience of (1662), 290. Mus- 
 covy, Czar of, his conduct to the English 
 
INDEX. 
 
 607 
 
 Ambassador (Earl of Carlble), agt note, 
 Mustapha, a tragedy, by the Earl of 
 Orrery, 305, 324. Mutiaao, Girolamo, a 
 planting by, 92. 
 
 Naked Truth,' pamphlet so called, 388. 
 Nantes, Edict of, revocation of, and conse- 
 quent persecution, 492. Nanteuil, 206. 
 Naples, inscription over the gate of the king- 
 dom, 132 ; account of the city and its envi- 
 rons, 123 — 132 ; Castle of St. Elmo, 123,138; 
 the Mole, ib. ; Cathedral and churches, 124 ; 
 Monastery and church of the Carthusians, 
 ib. ; Viceroy's Cavalerizzo, 125 ; Imperati's 
 Museum, to. ; Carnival, id. ; Vesuvius, ib. ; 
 Pausilippo, 127 ; Lago di Agnano, Grotto 
 del Cane, 128 ; Court of Vulcan, ib. ; Pu- 
 teoli, 129 ; Lake Avemus and Cave, Cuma ; 
 130 ; BaJse, ib. ; Misenus, 131 ; Elysian 
 Fields, ib. ; general observations on the 
 City and the manners of the people, 132, 
 133. Nassau, Prince William of, and his 
 son Grave Maurice, monuments, 27, 276. 
 Naudaeus, Caspar, on Libraries, translated 
 by Evelyn, 280. ' Navigation and Com- 
 merce, their Original and Progress,' by 
 Mr. Evelyn (part of his History of the 
 Dutch war), 379. Neale, Mr., Lotteries 
 set up by, 554, 558 ; built Seven Dials, 
 558, 559 o-nd ti/jte. Neapolitano, Carlo, 
 painter, 89. 
 
 Needham, Dr. Jasper, 249, 411. Needham, 
 Sir Robert, and Lady, 253, 258, 294, 447. 
 Needlework, landscape of, 269. Negroes, 
 James II. resolved to have them chris- 
 tened, 485. Negros, Hieronymo del, pa- 
 lace at Genoa, 73, 74. Neil, Sir Paul, 275. 
 Neptune, launch of ship, 441. Nero, ves- 
 tiges of, 30, 131, 133, 139. Nevers, notice 
 of, 194. Newburgh, Lord, 461. New- 
 castle, Marquis of, seat at Welback, 236. 
 Newcastle, Duke and Duchess of, at 
 Clerkenwell, 327, 328 ; dress of the 
 Duchess, 327, 328 ; visits the Royal So- 
 ciety, 328 ; the Duke's book on Horseman- 
 ship, 327 ; marriage of his daughter, 559. 
 New Hall (the great Duke of Bucking- 
 ham's), 249. 
 
 Newmarket, Charles II.'s house at, 347 ; 
 stables and heath, ib. ; court at, and races 
 (1671), 357 ; revelling at, 360 ; collection for 
 rebuildmg Newmarket after fire, 449. 
 Newport, Andrew, 413. Newport, Earl 
 of, 272, 478, 485 ; his pictures, 462 ; trea- 
 siu-er of the household (1685), 468 ; (1689), 
 530. Newport, Viscountess, 407. ' News 
 from Brussels unmasked,' by Evelyn, 263. 
 Newstead Abbey, notice of, 236. Newton, 
 Sir Adam, monument of, 220. Newton, 
 Sir Henry, allusions to, 220, 226, 244, 249, 
 207. Nice, in Savoy, biief notice of, 72. 
 Nicholai, of Rome, singer, 148. Nicholao, 
 excellence of, on the violin, 380, 412. Nicho- 
 las, Sir Edward, Secretary of State, 277, 
 378 ; West Horsley purchased by, 309. 
 Nicholas, Mr. John, son of Secretary Ni- 
 cholas, allusion to, 60, 67. Nicholas, Frier, 
 of Paris, chemist, 209. Nichols, Col., 355- 
 NichoL«=on, Dr. Wilham, Bishop of Glou- 
 
 cester, aSo. Nicholson, Dr., Bishop of 
 
 Carlisle, 584 
 
 Nieuport, Dutch ambassador, 253, 359, 261 ; 
 brief notices of, 248 ; his account of the 
 Dutch East India Company, 250 ; policy 
 of his nation, 262. Nineveh, remains, &c., 
 of| 377i 419- Niobe and her family, statues 
 of, 92. Nonsuch House, Surrey, account 
 of, 310, 311. Norden, John, accuracy of 
 his map, 438. Norfolk, Thomas, fifth 
 Duke of, restored, 280 ; his death, 398. 
 Norfolk, Henry, sixth Duke of, 350, 401, 
 511 ; copy of _' Marmora Oxon.' presented 
 to, by the University, 389 ; married to his 
 concubine, Mrs. Bickerton, 398, 399 ; his 
 house and pictures at Weybridge, 401, 
 402, 572 ; presents the Arundelian library 
 to the Royal Society, /d.,403; collection 
 of pictures, 441 ; his skill in horsemanship, 
 461. Norfolk, Henry, seventh Duke of, 
 570 ; bill for his divorce thrown out, 54B, 
 551 ; his kindness to the Evelyn family, 
 555 ; succeeds in obtaining his divorce, 
 577j 578. Norfolk, the Duchess of (Mrs. 
 Bickerton), 399, 401. 
 
 Normanby, Marquis of, conversations with, 
 respecting death of Charles II. j 558, 559. 
 North, Lord, 389, 438. North, Sir Francis, 
 365, 484 ; Lord Chief Justice, 409 ; Lord 
 Keeper, 428 ; character, ib., 454. North, 
 Sir Dudley, and his brother Roger, 484, 
 North, Dr. (son of Lord), sermon of, 389, 
 391. Northampton, Earl of, 260, 268 ; 
 Earl and Countess, 519 ; his seat, i5. North- 
 ampton, town of, 385, 519. North-west 
 Passage, attempt to discover, 390. North- 
 umberland, Henry Percy, eighth Earl 
 of, suicide of, 445. Northumberland, 
 Algernon, tenth Earl of, his pictures at 
 SuSblk House, 258, 272 ; House at 
 Sion, 308. Northumberland, Joceline, 
 eleventh Earl of, his daughter's marriage, 
 to Mr. Thynne, 429. Northumberland, 
 Countess of (Lady Elizabeth Howard, wife 
 of tenth Earl), 270, 429, 589. Northum- 
 berland, Cotmtess of (widow of eleventh 
 Earl), 451. Northumberland, the Duke 
 of (natural son of K. Charles II.), 391, 
 456, 459, 498. 
 
 Norton, Col., 487. Norton, Lady, conduct 
 of, to Charles 1., 218, 226. Norwich, brief 
 account of, 360. Norwich, Earl of, ambas- 
 sador to France, 42 ; at the head of the 
 rising in Kent (1648), 196 ; tried before the 
 rebels, 198 ; house in Epping Forest, 343, 
 439. Norwood, Col., 371. Notre Dame, 
 Cathedral of, Paris, 44. Nottingham, town 
 of, 236. Nottingham, Earl of, 408, 524 ; 
 refuses to sit in Council with Papists, 522 ; 
 protests against the abdication of James 
 II., 52S, 529; sells Kensington to Kinc; 
 William, 537 ; quarrel withAdmiralRusse!, 
 551 ; resigns as Secretary of State, 38 ; fire 
 at his house at Burleigh, 589. Nova Fossa^ 
 monastery at, 120. November, fifth of, 
 forbidden to be kept, 493. 
 
 Oakham, tenure of Barons Ferrers at, 236. 
 Oakwood Chapel, endowment and repair ot, 
 561, 582. Oates, Titus, conspiracy dis- 
 
6o8 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 covered by, 404 ; character of, 405 ; acousesi 
 the Queen, and several Popish Peers, 406 ; 
 evidence against Sir G. Wakeman, 408 ; 
 his conduct, ib.^ 409, 425; a witness 
 against Lord Stafford, 424 ; Lord Stafford's 
 remarks on his evidence, ib. \ his knavery 
 and impudence, 443 ; tried for perjury, 474, 
 476 ; his punishment, 475 ; wnt of error in 
 the judgment of, 533 ; acquitted of perjury, 
 534 ; his reviUng book against King James, 
 565. Obeliscus Pamphilius et j^gypti- 
 acus, 247. ObeHsk of Octavius Ca:sar, 
 100 ; of Constantine, 143 ; in Circus Cara- 
 calla, 135 ; brought from Egypt by Augus- 
 tus, 139. Obligations & Tests dispensed 
 with (1687), 508. Obrian, Lord, 398 ; his 
 widow, 378. Odart, Mr., Latin Secretary, 
 317. Oesters House, at Antwerp, 35. 
 Offley, Mr., groom porter, 225, 258, 320. 
 Offley, Dr., rector of Abinger, 320; sermon 
 of, 561 ; his gift to Oakwood Chapel, ib. ; 
 Offley, family, 574. Ogilby, John, publi- 
 cation of, 273. Ogle, Thomas, of Pinch- 
 beck, his daughter Anne, 368. Ogle, 
 I^dy, widow of Lord, 429, 431, 433. Ogle- 
 thorpe, Mr., duel fought by, 585. Ogniati, 
 Count, 347. Old Bailey, man pressed to 
 death at the, 223. 
 Oldenburg, Mr., secretary to Royal Society, 
 389 ; confined in the Tower, 331 ; letter of 
 Evelyn to, 322. Oliva, Padre, General of 
 thejesuits, 409. Oliver, Peter, miniatures 
 of, 196, 244, 269, 276. Olivetani, Padri, 
 Church of, 169. Olonne, Count d', 213. 
 O'Neale, Mr. , built Belsize House, 390. 
 Onslow, Arthur, seat at West Clandon, 
 349. Onslow, Denzil, his house at Pur- 
 ford, 428. Onslow, Sir Richard, 544, 568, 
 570, 571, 581, 583, 589; duel with Mr. 
 Oglethorpe, 585. Onslow, Earl of, 252, 
 428. Onufrio, Cardinal, of Rome, 137. 
 Opera at Venice (1645), 164. 
 Orange, Henry Frederick, Prince of, 396. 
 Orange, Prince of (1641), 24. Orange, 
 William Prince of, 350, 397, 398; marries 
 Princess Mary, 397 ; accusation of Depu- 
 ties of Amsterdam, 455 ; forces sent by, to, 
 James II. (1685), 482. Orange, Princess 
 of, sister of Charles II., 270, 285. Oranges 
 raised in England, 406, 411, 579. Orias, 
 Prince, palace and garden of, 74. Orleans, 
 account of, 60, 61. Orleans, Duke of 
 (prisoner temp. Hen. V.), 223, 379. Or- 
 leans, Duke of (1651), 213. Orleans, Gas- 
 ton, Duke of, 504. Ormond, Marquess, 
 (afterwards Duke oQ. 204, 258, 275, 283, 
 284, 285, 297, 298, 301, 304, 336, 371, 383, 
 418 ; his estates restored, 266 ; remarks on 
 natural history of Ireland, 280 ; chancellor 
 of Oxford, and Doctor, 35^ ; anecdote re- 
 specting, 383 ; lays down his commission, 
 572 ; restored, 573. Ormond, Duchess of, 
 392. Orrery, Earl of, plays by, 392. Os- 
 born, Sir Thomas (afterwards Earl of 
 Danby, Marquess Carmarthen, and Duke 
 of Leeds), 208, 398, 537, 538 ; lord trea- 
 surer, 373; strictures on, 375 ; his ad- 
 ministration, 431 ; his imprisonment, 453 ; 
 Teleasfld, 455, Osiris, remarkable statue 
 of, 91. 
 
 Ossory, Lord, 204, 212, 266, 389, 391, 397, 
 412, 414 ; adventure of, 204 ; attack on the 
 Smyrna fleet, 362, 363, 419 \ brother of the 
 Trinity House, 371 ; master, 382 ; goes to 
 command forces in Holland, 400 ; deeply 
 affected at being appointed to the expe- 
 dition to Tangier, 417, 418; his sickness 
 and death, tb. ; character, ib., 419; Os- 
 sory, Earl of (son of the great Earl), 436, 
 438 ; his mansion destoyed, 542. Ostend, 
 notice of, 34. Ottoboni, elected Pope, 536, 
 Oudart, Mons., 297. Oughtred, William, 
 mathematician, 226, 244. Ovid, Metamor- 
 phoses of, in raezzo-relievo, 146. Ouseley, 
 Sir Charles, 245. Outram, Dr., vicar of St. 
 Margaret's, 413. Owen, Sir John, 200. 
 Owen, Dr. Richard, a sequestered minis- 
 ter, 199, 220, 223, 224, 226, 242, 258, 297 ; 
 sermons of, 226, 227. Owen, Dr., the 
 famous Independent, 22^. Ox, remark- 
 able one, 200. Oxford, Earl of, 291, 294 ; 
 his mistress, 281, 324. 
 
 Oxford, visit to, in (1654), 229, 232 ; the Act, 
 229 ; Bodleian Library, Anatomy School, 
 St. John's, 230; Christ Church, Magdalen, 
 Physic-garden, 231 ; visit to, in (1664), 299, 
 300 ; the theatre. All Souls', Magdalen, 340, 
 341 ; C^ourt and Parliament held at (1665) 
 272 ; gift to wounded sailors, 316 ; the 
 Arundelian marbles procured for, by 
 Evelyn, 332; Mr. Evelyn thanked by the 
 University, 334 ; decree of convocation, 
 and letter of Dr. Walker, ib. ; thanks to 
 Mr. Howard, afterwards Duke of Norfolk, 
 335 ; Encaenise at (1669), on the completion 
 of the theatre, 340, 341 ; terrse filius, ib. ; 
 the Act ; marbles, ib., 342 ; doctor's degree 
 conferred on Duke of Ormond, Earl of 
 Chesterfield, Mr. Spencer, and Mr. Eve- 
 lyn, ib. ; visit of Mr. Evelyn (1675), 384 ; 
 Dr. Plot's curiosities, ib. ; Parliament at 
 in (1681), 350 ; the reception of William III. 
 at, in (1695), 562. 
 
 Packer, Mr,, 288; his seat and chapel at 
 Groomsbridge, 223, 379. Paddy, Sir Wil- 
 liam, 288. Padua, description of, 165, 166, 
 167, 169, 170, 172, 173, 176; inscription 
 over a gate, 165 ; tomb at St. Lorenzo, 166 ; 
 St. Antony's church, convent of St. Jus- 
 tina, ib. ; Great Hall, 169 ; Monte Pieta, 
 schools, ib, ; Garden of simples, 170; noc- 
 turnal disorders at, 172 ; anatomical lec- 
 tures, hospitals, 174. Paget, Lord, am- 
 bassador, 551. Paine, Capt., 318. Painters' 
 Hall, 301. Painting, old Roman, de- 
 scribed, no. Painting, perfection of, by 
 Mr. Evelyn, 337. Palais Cardinal, at 
 Paris, 59 ; Royal Masque at, 210. Palais 
 Royale, Paris, 46. Palais, Isle du, Paris, 
 rb. Palazzo Vecchio, at Florence, 79, 80, 
 81. Palazzo della Cancellaria ac Rome, 
 136. Palladio, Andrea, works of, 167, 168, 
 176, 178. Palma, Jacopo, the paintings 
 by, 52, 198. 
 
 Palmer, Sir James, 198. Palmer, Mr., ot 
 Gray's Inn, the curious clocks, &c., in his 
 possession, 277. Pamphili, John Baptista» 
 elected Pope (Innocent X.), 84, 85. Pam- 
 philio. Cardinal, 145. Pancirollus, accoune 
 
INDEX. 
 
 609 
 
 ^»f a Roman corpse, 43. Panegyric, poetical, 
 on King Charles IL's coronation, by Mr. 
 Evelyn, 275. Pantheon at Rome, 137. 
 Paper, process of manufacturing, 401. 
 Papillion, Mr., 247. Papillon, Mr., 443. 
 Papin, Mens., account of his Digesters, 
 434, Papists, conspiracy of (1696), banished 
 ten miles from London, 564 ; law to dis- 
 possess of estates after 18 years of age, 
 (1700), 578. Paplewick, view from, 236. 
 Paradise, an exhibition of animals, 377. 
 
 Paris, description of (1643^ 43—53, 56—59 I 
 (1649), 201 — 206; (1650), 208 — 217; Pont 
 Neuf, 43 ; Cathedral of Notre Dame, 44 ; 
 Jesuits' Church and College, 45 ; the Sor- 
 bonne, 45, 46 ; the Exchange, Palais, St. 
 Chapelle, zi. ; Isle du Palais, 47 ; Marais 
 de Temple, St. Genevieve, Palais Royale, 
 j&. ; Hotel de la Charite, id., 204 ; Jardine 
 Royale, Bois de Vincennes, 47 ; the Lou- 
 vre, id. ; the Palace of the Thuilleries, id. ; 
 its gardens, 48, 49 ; Count de Liancourt's 
 palace and pictures, 51, 52 ; Fontaine bleau, 
 53) 54 \ palace of Luxembourg, 56 ; gar- 
 dens, 57 ; view from St. Jacques' steeple, 
 58 ; St. Innocent's Churchyard, 59 ; Mons. 
 Morine's garden, td., 21a ; Palais Cardinal, 
 59, 203 ; President Maison's palace, 201 ; 
 audience of the English Ambassador 
 (1649)^202,203; St. Stephen's Church, r3._ ; 
 Madrid, 204 ; ordination of English Di- 
 vines, 205 ; Samaritan or Pump at Pont 
 Neuf, 206 ; Convent of Bonnes Hommes, 
 209 ; Frier Nicholas, iS. ; Torture at the 
 Chatelet, 210 ; opera at the Palais Car- 
 dinal, 211 ; ceremonies on Corpus Christi 
 day, 212; Procession of Louis XIV., to 
 Parliament, 213 ; audience of English am- 
 bassador, King's gardens, 214 ; Mark An- 
 tonio the enameller, 217 ; besieged in 
 (1652), by Prince of Conde, 220 ; rejoicings 
 on the reported death of William III., 541. 
 Paris, Archbishop of, house at St. Cloes, 
 48. Parker, Bishop of Oxford, 501 ; his 
 death, 513 ; character, id. Parkhurst, Sir 
 Robert, 428. Parkhurst, Dr., master of 
 Ealliol College, 20. • ■ r 
 
 Parliament, the opening and dissolution of 
 (1640), 22 ; (1648), sat up the whole night 
 to conclude the Isle of Wight treaty, but 
 were surprised by the Rebel Army, 197 ; 
 prorogation of, by Charles II. in person 
 (1665), 304 ; Roman Catholic Lords ex- 
 cluded (1678), 406 ; elections (1685), influ- 
 enced by the Court, 469, 475, 478 ', ^'"S 
 Jamefi II. 's speech to Parliament on his 
 accession, 477 ; proceedings of (1685), 493 ; 
 stedfastness of members m behalf of the 
 Protestant faith ; prorogued, 507, 5°^ J 
 debate in House of Lords respecting Re- 
 gency, 527 ; precipitate conduct of the 
 Commons (1689), 53° ; prorogued and dis- 
 solved (1690), id. ; proceedings on dis- 
 covery of conspiracy against William III. 
 (1695), 564 ; Parliament (1705)- 57o- 
 Parma, Duke of, his palace Caprarola, 149. 
 Parmensis, Baptista, 52 ; drawings of, 178. 
 Parquiou, letters of, 241. Parr, Dr., of 
 Camberwell, 429 ; funeral sermon on Dr. 
 Breton, 188, 362; visit of Evelyn to, 498. 
 
 Parson's Green, Lord Mordaunt's house, 
 271, 416. Pasquin, remains of the status 
 of, 137. Passignano, Domenico Cresti, 
 paintmg by, 52. Passport, Spanish, 174, 
 Paston, Sir Robert (Earl of Yarmouth), 2^6, 
 250, 307. Patriarchs, Eastern, subscrip- 
 tions to our Confession, 289. Patrick Dr., 
 Dean of Peterborough, 493 ; Bp. of Ely, 
 337» 343. 503, 543- Paul III^ Pope, 139, 
 Paul v., Pope, chapel of, 95. Paul, Cheva- 
 lier, 213. Paule, Mr., 205. Paullo,TuU., 
 bust of, 169. Pausilippo, near Naples, 127. 
 Peake, Sir John, lord-mayor (1687), 511. 
 Pearson, Dr. John, Bishop of Chester, 371, 
 377) 380- Peat, or turf, use of, proposed, 
 330. Peckham, Sir Henry, feast at the 
 Temple, 343. Peckham, Sir T. Bond's 
 house at,_ 390, 428. Pemberton, Lord 
 Chief Justice of Ireland, 409, 450. 
 
 Pembroke, Earl of, seat near Aldermaston, 
 229, 230, 509 ; seat at Wilton, 233 ; fire at, 
 589 ; Lord Privy Seal, 565 ; subscription to 
 Greenwich Hospital, 567. Pen, Sir Wm., 
 impeached, 336 ; blasphemous book by his 
 son, 395. Pen, Admiral, 242. Penitents, 
 procession of, 143. Penshurst, brief notice 
 of, 223. 
 
 Pepys, Mr. Sam., Admiralty Secretary, 
 338, 380, 390, 406, 443, 506, 538, 541, 542, 
 544, 571 ; cut for the stone, 340 ; Clerk of 
 the Acts, 352 ; twice Master of the Trinity- 
 house, 372, 482 ; committed to the Towci . 
 407 ; accused of being a Papist and of trea- 
 chery, id. ; possessed Deane's ' Art of 
 Shipbuilding,' 432 ; accompanies the King 
 to Portsmouth, 484 ; impostures of the Sa 
 ludadors confessed to, 485 ; his account of 
 his conversation with James II. respecting 
 Charles 11. being a Catholic, 488 ; portrait 
 of Mr. Evelyn painted for, 534 ; his remon- 
 strance against suspicions entertained of 
 him, 540 ; sent to the Gate-house, id. ; en- 
 larged, 541 ; his house at Clapham, 580 , 
 his death, account and character of him, 
 585 ; his library, 586. 
 
 Percy, Lord, 421 ; Lady Elizabeth, 5S9. 
 Perelle, engraver, 203. Perfuming rooms, 
 whimsical method of, in Germany, 245^ 
 Perigueux, City of, 72. Perishot, Mons., 
 collection of, 52. Perkins, Sir William, 
 executed, 565. Perpetual motion, 337. 
 Persepolis, ruins of, 419. Persian habi- 
 adopted at Court (1666), 324, 325. Perut 
 gino, Pietro, paintings by, 80, 116, 140- 
 150. Peruzzi, Baldassare (called Baldas- 
 sare da Siena), 113, Peter the Great in 
 Evelyn's house, 571. Peterborough, brief 
 notice of, 239. Peterborough, Earl of, 
 271,280, 468, 548 ; sale of lands to pay debts 
 (1676), 372 ; marriage of his daughter, id, 
 Peterborough, Lady, 257, 280 ; house at 
 Ryegate, 243. Peterhouse, Cambridge, 
 240. Peters, incites the rebels to murc^x 
 Charles I., 197; executed, 268. Petit, 
 Mons., of Rome, 86. Petit, Old, paintings 
 of, 198. Petitot, John, enamel by, 269, 
 Peto, Mr. Henry, builder, 357. Petra, 
 glossa, found at Sheerness, 3j6. Petre, 
 Lord, commuted for Pouish Plot, 407. Pe- 
 trifiedhumanbody,93. pettjCommissioncfp 
 
 39 
 
6io 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 his skill in shipbuilding, 293 ; builder of the 
 first frigate, 538. 
 
 Petty, Sir William, 309, 389, 438 ; improve- 
 ments of shipping, 280 ; ship with two 
 keels, 295, 301, 382 ; character, 381 — 384, 
 438. Peyton, Sir Thomas, 206. Phidias 
 and Praxiteles, horses of, 93. Phillips, 
 Edward, preceptor of Evelyn's son, 294, 
 304 ; preferred by his recommendation, 
 396. Phillips, Mrs., her tragedy of 'Ho- 
 race,' 335, 339. Philosophers' Elixir, pro- 
 jection of, 588. Phipps, Sir Wm., Go- 
 vernor of New England, 551. Physicians, 
 College of, 440. Piacentino, Giulio, paint- 
 ing, 156. Pichini, Sign., his collection, 
 87. Pictures, auction at the Banqueting- 
 house, 555. Pierce, paintings, 233. .Pierce, 
 Dr., President of Magdalen Colleg'e, Ox- 
 ford, 249 ; letter of Mr. Evelyn to, 293 ; 
 sermon at Whitehall, 399 ; another, 406. 
 Pierpoint, Mr. Evelyn, 510. Pierpoint, 
 Mrs., married to Mr. Cheny, 537, 549. 
 Pierrepoint, Hon. W., 200, 510, 571. 
 Pierrepoint, Mr., his house at Notting- 
 ham, 336. 
 
 Pierson, Dr., his ' Biblia Polyglotta,' 224, 
 242, 276. Pietra Comessa (inlaid marble). 
 So, 99, 103, 104, III, 118, 146, 151, 152, 167, 
 239, 269 ; artists in, at Florence, 153. 
 Pietra Mala, a burning mountain, 154. 
 Pietro, Sign., musiciRn, 422, 470, 472. 
 Pine, Queen, from F.a/badoes, 277 ; King 
 Pine, 337. Pintado, room hung with, 316. 
 Piqudello (Piccadilly), paving of, 286. 
 Pisa, City of, 76, 77, 150. Pisano, Pietro, 
 paintings by, 105. Piten, the Jesuit, 523. 
 Plague in London (1665), ravages of, 
 30S, 309, 310, 311. Plantations, Foreign, 
 Council for, appointed (1671), 351, 353, 
 354 ; pL-)Ceedings of,^ 352—354) 360-7362, 
 365, 368, 369 ; constituted a Council of 
 Trade, 370, 371, ■^73, 380. Plaintin, shop 
 of, 35. Plessis, Du, house of the French 
 King, 64. Plessis, Mons. du, ridingschool 
 of, 59. Pliny, death of, 126 ; statue of E. 
 M. Pliny, 178. 
 
 plot, Dr., his natural curiosities, 3S4 ; history 
 of Staffordshire and Oxfordshire, 385 ; Se- 
 cretary of Royal Society, 430. Plume, 
 Mr., sermon of, 322. Plymouth, break- 
 water at, 76. Plymouth, Earl of, 411. 
 Poggio Imperiale, at Florence, 153. Poig- 
 nant, Mons,, of Paris, his collection, 211. 
 Poland, incursion of the Swedes into, 245. 
 Poland, King of, embassy to Charles II., 
 267 ; raises the siege of Vienna, 449. Po- 
 lemberg, Cornelius, paintings of, 52. Pol- 
 lajuolo, Antonio, sculpture by, loi. Pol- 
 lard, Sir Hugh, 290, 325, 374. Poll Tax, 
 268, 534. Polythore, a musical instrument, 
 277. Pordage, Mr., his excellent voice, 463, 
 Pomfret, Mr., 286. 
 
 Pont Neuf, the, at Paris, 43, 206. 
 
 Pont St. Anne, Paris, 43. Pont St. Esprit, 
 at Valence, 70. Pontano, painting by, 153. 
 Pontaq, Mons., 445. Ponte, Francesco 
 da (the elder Eassano), paintings by, 52, 
 125, 133) 406. 565- Ponte Giocomo da (II 
 Bassano), paintings by, 133, 163, 553. Poa- 
 tefract 236. Pontius Pilate, palace of, 6g, 
 
 Pontoise, in Normandy, 54. Pontorno» 
 paintings of, 80. Pope, Walter, verses by, 
 381. Pope, palaces of, Mont Cavallo, 93^ 
 III ; Vatican, 105, 157 ; chapel in tho 
 Vatican, 158; armory of, 163; procession 
 of the Pope to St. John de Latcran, 148 ; 
 on the Annunciation, 139 ; on Lady Day^ 
 142. Popham, Colonel, house of, 229. 
 Porcupine, description of one, 529. Por- 
 denone, paintings of, 152. Porta, Eaccio 
 della (Frd Bartolomeo di S. Marco), 
 painting by, 15*. Porta, Giacomo de 1 , 
 works of, 91, 212. Porter, Endymion, 200. 
 Portland, Earl of, 360, 568. Portland, Dor< 
 setshire, earthquake at, 563. Portman, Sil 
 William, Duke of Monmouth taken by, 
 479. Portmore, David Colyer, Earl of, 
 401. 
 Portsmouth, siege of, 38, 486, 487 ; Jamea 
 II.'s visit to, 526. Portsmouth, Duchess 
 of (Madame Querouaille), 350, 357, 358, 
 384, 464, 467 ; apartments at Whitehall, 
 386 ; Morocco ambassador entertained at 
 her apartments, 432 ; visited in her dress- 
 ing-room by the King, 450 ; her apart- 
 ments burnt, 543. Portugal, King of (1683), 
 465. Portugal earthquake in (1699), 576. 
 Portuguese ambassador, in London (1679), 
 407. Pott, Sir George, 261. Povey, Mr., 
 290, 335, 389 ; house in Lincoln's inn fields, 
 297 ; near Brentford, 317. Poule, Henry, 
 manager against Viscount Stafford, 423,424. 
 Poultney, Sir P. W., 340, 537. Poussin, 
 Nicholas, 52, 148, 206, 424. Powell, Mr. 
 Justice, displaced, 517, 568. Powell, Capt., 
 165, 171, 247. Power, essays on balance of, 
 
 Pozzo, account of his collection, 107. Pra- 
 toline, villa of Duke of Florence, 153. 
 Pratt, Mr., architect, 243, 317 ; built Lord 
 Allington's at Horseheath, 346. Presby- 
 terians of Scotlaml. character of, 539 ; 
 Pressed to death, punishment. Inflicted, 
 223, 268. Preston, Lord, 509 ; Secretary 
 of State, 522 iis ; tried and condemned, 
 543 ; released, 544 Preston Beckhelvj-n, 
 manor of, 196. Pretyman, Sir John, house 
 at Dryfield, 233 ; Pretyman, Mr., uncle of 
 Mrs. Evelyn, 196, 195. 220, 242, 501. 
 Price, Sir Herbert, 12a. Prideaux, Dr. 
 Humphrey, 371 ; editor of his ' Marmora 
 O.xoniensia,' 399. Primatlccio, Francesco, 
 paintings by, 52, 53. Prince, of 90 guns, 
 387. Prince frigate, loss of, 314, 315. Prlt- 
 chard. Dr., sermon of, 389. Privy Seal, 
 commission for executing the oflice of 
 (1685), 491 ; proceedings of (1686-7), 49^1 
 498, 499, 500, 502, 504, 506. 
 
 Procession of the Pope to St. John de Late- 
 ran, 108 ; of penitents at Rome on Good 
 Friday, 143 ; of Lewis XIV. to Parliament, 
 213; funeral of Ireton, 218 ; of Cromwell, 
 259 ; coronation of Charles II., i^. ; aquatic 
 procession in honour of Catherine, Queen 
 of Charles 11. , 257. Prophecies, Interpre- 
 tations of, 533, 540. Protestant French 
 Church at Chaienton, 52. Prujean, Sir 
 Francis, 277. Puckering, Sir Hen., his 
 seat at Warwick, 196. Pulsone, Sciplone 
 (called Gaetaiio), paintings by, 106. Pun- 
 
INDEX. 
 
 6ll 
 
 tens, Jo., mountebank, 277. Purford, Mr. 
 Denzil Onslow's house at, 428. Purgatory, 
 gates of, 129. Puteoli {Puzzo\o\ 129, 130, 
 131. Putney, schools at, 200. Putti (boys' 
 heads), paintings of, 19S, 201, 206. Pye, 
 Sir Walter, 200 ; seat of, 232. 
 
 Quakers, the new sect of, 149. Queensberry, 
 Duke of, 476. Quercei, Jacobo, sculpture, 
 105. Querouaille, Mons., and lady, 384. 
 Quinquina, brought into vogue, 558. Quin- 
 trn Metsys, blacksmith, painting, 198. 
 
 Rabinierej Admiral, his funeral, 367. Rad- 
 cliffe, Sir George, 202. Raffaelle (Raffaele 
 Sanzio, di Urbino), paintings by, 52, 53, 
 54 ier, 80, 100, J13, 114, 133, 139, 152, 153, 
 156, 178, 180, 206, 223, 276, 284, 392, 420, 
 441, 565 ; architecture of, 153 ; his burial- 
 place, 138. Rainbow, Dr., sennon by, 269. 
 Raleigh, Mr. Carew, son of Sir Walter, 
 258. Raleigh, Sir Walter, 226 ; his cordial, 
 288. Rand, Dr., 20, 251. Ranelagh, Lady, 
 540, 547. Ratcliffe, Mr., 208. Ratcliffe, 
 Sir George, 203. Rattle-snakes, Virginian, 
 253. Ravensbourn Mills, Deptford, 336. 
 Ray, Dr., on fishes, 498. Raynolds, Dr., 
 sermon before East ;lndia Company, 254, 
 Reading, Sir Robert, 401, 454. Reccii, 
 Andrea, mezzo-relievo by, 166. Reeves, 
 Dr., sermon by, 2S2. Reeves, famous for 
 perspective, 220. Regency, debate respect- 
 ing (16S9), 527. Reggio, Sign. Pietro, 
 musician, 458. ' Rehearsal,' play by Duke 
 of Buckingham, 361. Rencia, Anna, singer, 
 164, 174. Reni, Guido, paintings by, 92, 
 107, 118, 140, 156, 223. 
 
 Revels in the Middle Temple (1642), 38 ; 
 (1667), 334 ; Inner Temple (1697), 570 ; at 
 Lincoln's Inn (i66r), 281 ; at Court (1661), 
 id. ; (1668), 335. Review in Hyde Park, 
 (1663), 292. Revolution of (1688), distracted 
 councils at, 527. Reymes, Col. Bullein, 
 301, 367. Reynaldo, Prince, 377. Rey- 
 nolds, Bp., sermon by, 254. Rheno, Caval. 
 Giuseppe, 96, 104. Rhinoceros, the first 
 in England, 459. Rhodes, Siege of, an 
 opera, 281. Rhodomante, Sign. Paulo, 
 of Venice, 158. Rialto at Venice, 159. 
 Rich, Mr., feast at Lincoln's Inn, J304. Rich, 
 the Rebel, 247. Richard, St., an EngHsh 
 King, epitaph at Lucca, 150. Richard III., 
 King, tomb of, 235. Richardson, Judge, 
 19. Richardson, the fire-eater, feats of, 
 370. 
 
 Richelieu, town of, 66. Richelieu, Cardinal, 
 palace at Ruell, 49 ; at Richelieu, 66 ; 
 Palais Cardinal; 203. Richett, Mr., en- 
 graver, 225. Richmond, Duke of, funeral 
 (1641), 24. Richmond, Duke of, ambassador 
 to Denmark, death of, 386. Richmond, 
 Duke oi (1663), 292. Richmond, Duke of, 
 natural son of Charles II., .132, 455» 459- 
 Richmond, Countess of, mother of Henry 
 VII.,239. Rilie, Sir Hugh, 203.^ Roan, 
 67, 68. Robinson, Alderman Sir John, 
 247, 292 ; pageant of, 289. Rochester, 
 Earl of, a prophane wit, 350. Rochester, 
 Laurence H yde, Earl of, 463 ; commis- 
 sioner of treasury, 413; a favourite at 
 
 Court, 437 ; made Earl, 438 ; his daughter 
 married, id. ; president of the Council, 459 ; 
 lord treasurer, 463 ; opposition to William 
 and Mary, 530 ; Lord Lieutenant of Ire- 
 land, 580. Rochester, Countess of (1664) 
 —(1686), 299, 501. Rogers, Dr., consul 
 at Padua, 170. Rogers, Dr., account o^ 
 437 ; Harveian oration of, id. Roman 
 Catholics, machinations of (1686-7), 499, 
 506, 507. Roman medals found near Ean- 
 stead, 259. Roman money, observations on, 
 147. Roman painting at Cardinal Bor- 
 ghese's, 110. Roman temple at Leicester, 
 236 ; Romano, Giulio, paintings by, 52, 
 115. Romano, Paris, 95. 
 Rome, description of, and events in (1644-5), 
 19—120, 133—217 ; Farneze Palace, 86,, 
 118, 133 ; temples of Peace, Jupiter, Ro- 
 mulus, Faustina, 87, 88; arch of S. Severus, 
 the Capitol, i6. ; Ara Clceli, go ; Barberim 
 palace, 118; Jesuits' church, 123 ; Medici 
 
 ?aKice and gardens, 91, no ; Chiesa Nova, 
 'rince Ludovisio's villa, 124; Sign. Ange- 
 loni's study, 125, 133 ; Monte Cavallo and 
 the Pope's summer palace, 93, iii ; Dio- 
 cletian s baths, Fontana della Therme, St. 
 Susanna, and Maria della Vittoria, 93, 94 ; 
 Mont Alto's villa, St. Agnes, and Con- 
 stanza, id. ; St. Maria Maggiore, 95 ; St. 
 Pudentia, and Praxedeis, 96; arch of Titus, 
 96 ; amphitheatre of Vespasian, arch of 
 Constantine, 97; Villa Borghesi, 5S, no ; 
 St. Peter's and obelisk dedicated to Julius 
 Csesar, 99 — 104 ; crypt of St. Peter's, 113 ; 
 baptistery of St. John, 104 ; Scala Sancta, 
 and obelisk, id., 105 ; St. John de Lateran, 
 104, 105, 106 ; collection of Cavaliero Pozzo, 
 107 ; St. P'etro in vinculi, id. ; procession 
 of the Pope to St. John de Lateran, 108 ; 
 fireworks, 109 ; Jesuits' College ; collection 
 of H. Vittilesco, no; Ghisi palace, 113, 
 133 ; St. Mary's, 113 ; ceremonies on Christ- 
 mas Eve, 113 ; the Jew's Ghetto ; ceremony 
 of circumcision, id ; the Vatican, 114 — 117 ; 
 St. Paul's, 117 ; Tre Fontana, 118 ; Christ's 
 Hospital, 119; fountain called Acqua Paula, 
 iig ; St. Cecilia's, 133 ; Mons. Testaceus, 
 tomb of Cestius, 134 ; St. Maria in Navi- 
 cula, Horti Mathsei, Egyptian obelisk, 
 135; St, Sebastian's, 136; academy of 
 Humorists, r35 ; English Jesuits, hospital 
 of Pellerini della S. Trinita, id ; palace of 
 Cardinal Spada, palace della Cancellaria, 
 136 ; Piazza Navona, St. Giacomo di Spa- 
 gnoli, id. ; Pasquin, church of the Capu- 
 chins, column of Antoninus, 137 ; Pantheon 
 or S. Maria della Rotonda, id. ; monastery 
 of Trinita del Monte, 138 ; St. Augustine's, 
 and obelisk, 139 ; Muro torto. Mausoleum 
 Augusti, zd. ; Sapienza, St. Andrea della 
 valle, id. ; St. Maria sopra la Minerva, id. ; 
 Trajan's column, St. Cross of Jerusalem, 
 140 ; St. Lawrence, 141 ; Carnival, id. ; 
 Greek church, garden of Justinian, 142 ; 
 ceremonies on Lady Day, Pope's portion 
 to the Zitelle, id. ; ceremonies on Holy 
 Thursday, Good Friday, and Easter Day, 
 143 ; Roma subterranea, id. ; opera by 
 Pnnce Galicano ; tournament, 144 ; ambas 
 sador from Lucca ; benediction of the 
 
6l2 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Pope, 145 : Frcscati, formerly Tuscula- 
 num, ib. ; Card. Scipio Borghese's house on 
 Mondragone, 146 ; Palace d'Est^ at Tivoli, 
 16. ; models of Rome when in its beauty, 
 147 ; cascade of the Anio, ib. ; mountebank 
 in the Piazza Navona, 147 ; observations 
 on Roman coins and medals, ceremonies of 
 Greek Church, celebrated artists, 148 ; exe- 
 cutions, ib. ; extent, &c., of Rome, ib. ; 
 earthquake at (1703), 585. 
 
 Romney, Lord, offices held by, 563, 581. 
 Ronquillos, Don Pietro^ visit of Mr. Evelyn 
 to, 427. Rooke, Admiral Sir Geo., squa- 
 dron of, 564, 565 ; Spanish galleon taken 
 t>y, 585. Ross, tutor to Duke of Mon- 
 mouth, 48. Rosse, Lord, divorce of, 344. 
 R.osse, Alexander, divine and poet, 186, 
 200. Rotenhamer, painting by, 198. Ro- 
 therham, Serjeant, a trustee for Boyle's 
 lectures, 548, r 565. Rotherhithe, dreadful 
 fire ''at (1699), 573. Rotiere, Mons., his 
 excellence in graving, 400. Rotterdam, the 
 fair at (1641), 27. Rouen, cathedral, chapel 
 d'Amboise, St. Owen's, 58. Rouen Abp. of, 
 palace, Gaillon, 54. Roupel, Mons., of 
 Paris, 226. Royal Exchange, London,built, 
 377 ; Royal Society, shew Charles tl., an 
 eclipse of Saturn, 275 ; incorporatea, 277, 
 286, 287; mace and arms, ih., 288, 289; 
 address the King, 287 ; first anniversary, 
 295 ; met at Arundel House after the fire 
 (1666), 326, 377 ; Arundel Library presented 
 by Mr. Howard at Mr. Evelyn's suggestion, 
 326, 339, 403 ; Evelyn presents tables of 
 Veins, Arteries, and Nerves, 335, 583 ; 
 College for, designed atArundel House, 336 ; 
 Chelsea College given to, by Charles II., 
 340 ; Evelyn chosen secretary, 370 ; meet 
 at Gresham College, 377 ; regulations re- 
 specting electing Fellows, 431 ; transactions 
 of, 277, 280, 289, 296, 297, 301, 313, 328, 
 336, 339. 343, 382, 423, 434, 436, 437, 438, 
 498, 573- Rubens, Sir Peter Paul, paint- 
 ings by, 35, 55^. Ruell, Richelieu's palace 
 at, 49. Rugini, Sign, of Venice, his collec- 
 tion, 171. Rump parliament, dispersed by 
 the Army, 262 ; dissolved by Monk, 263. 
 Rupert, Prince, 287,293,307, 314, 315,324, 
 329, 349, 401 ; explains the mezzotinto en- 
 graving, 271, 272 ; arranges the fire-arms 
 at Windsor Castle, 349. 
 
 Russel, Lord William, apprehended, 443; 
 tried and condemned, 445, 446 ; beheaded, 
 445, 447, 451, 481. Russel, Col. (uncle of 
 Lord), 447. Russel, Wm., embalming 
 practised by, 434. Russel, Adm., quarrel, 
 with Lord Nottingham, 552 ; put aside, 
 ih. ; restored, 554. Russel, Catholic Bishop 
 of Cape Verdi, 280. Russian Ambassador, 
 entrance of (1662), 290 ; takes leave, 292 ; 
 curious present by, to Charles XL, 304 ; 
 audience of (1667), 332 ; (1681), 430. Rus- 
 tate, Tobias, benefactions of, 417. Ravign^, 
 Marquis, 502, 509, 536. Rycaut, Sir Paul, 
 493. Ryegate, Lady Peterborough's house 
 at, 243. Rye-house Plot detected, 443 ; 
 declaration concerning, 447 ; hanksgiving, 
 44». 
 
 Sachevcrell, on Lord Stafford's trial, 423. 
 
 Saffron Walden, famous lor saffron, 34^, 
 441. Sailor, fortitude of, under amputa- 
 tion, 364. St. Albans, Earl of, 266, 274, 
 287, 2Q2, 312,448. St. Albans, Duke of 
 (son of Charles 11. ), 456, 459. St. Chapelie, 
 Paris, 46; at Bourges, 67. St. Clements 
 Church, London, 460; St. Clere, Mons., 
 of Paris, collections of, 206. St. Cloes, 
 house of Archbishop of Paris, 49. St. Cross 
 at Rome described, 140. St Denys, Paris, 
 42. St. George's, Hanover Square, 545. 
 St. Germain, Naples, natural stoves of, 139. 
 St. Germain, Mons., 214. St. Germain's 
 en Laye, 49, 50, 51. St. James's Church, 
 Piccadilly, 461. St James's, library at, 
 563. St. James's Park, collection of rare 
 beasts and fowls in, 304, 614 ; library in, 
 126. St. John's College, Oxford, 230. St. 
 John's College, Cambridge, 239. St. John 
 de Lateran, church of, at Rome, 104, 105, 
 106. St. John, Lord, 340. St. John, Sir 
 Walter, 299. St. John, son of Sir Walter, 
 murder by, 462. St. John, Regicide, 239. 
 St. Justina, church of, at Padua, 167. St 
 Leger, Lady, antipathy to roses, 345. 
 
 St Maria Maggiore^ at Rome, 95. St 
 Maria sopra la Minerva, at Rome, 140. 
 St. Mark, at Venice, Piazza, 160 ; Church, 
 161 ; Tower, 163, St. Michael, Island of, 
 near Venice, 171. St. Michael in Bosco, 
 at Bologna, 156. St Paul's (Old) Cathe- 
 dral, surveyed for repairs, 317 ; destruc- 
 tion of, by the great fire of London, 31S, 
 319, 320. St. Paul's Cathedral, choir 
 finished, 558 ; opened for public service, 
 570. St. Paul's, church of, near Rome, 
 117. St Peter's at Rome, piazza, before, 
 gp; description of, 101; crypt, 113; ser- 
 vice at, on Good Friday and Easter Day; 
 143. St. Pietro in vinculi, at Rome, 147' 
 148. St. Ruth, General, slain, 546. bt 
 Sebastian's at Rome, 135. St. Stephen's. 
 Paris, 203. St- Susanna, church at Rome, 
 79. St. Thomas's Hospital (i664\ 301. 
 St. Vincent Rock, Bristol, 229. 
 
 Saladine, Mons., 191, Salisbury Cathedral, 
 233 ; Plain and_ city, ib. ; Stonehenge, ib. 
 Sallust, viridarium and gardens, 92, 94. 
 Saltpetre, Commission for regulating, 315, 
 316. Salt water, rivulet of, at Pistoia, 150. 
 Salvatico, Dr., of Padua, 172, 175. Salu- 
 dadors of Spain, impostures of, 485. Sal- 
 viati, Francesco Rossi, called Salviati, works 
 of) 87, 136. Samuel, Mr., architect, 347. 
 Sancroft, Dr., Abp. of Canterbury, 317, 
 493. 500. 501, 502, 511, 534. 558; sent for 
 by King James, 522 ; required to publish 
 a declaration, 523 ; meeting of Bishops at 
 Lambeth, 525, 526 ; thanks Evelyn, 525 ; 
 protests against the crown being given to 
 William liL, 530 ; refuses to attend Par- 
 liament, (1689,) 531, conversation with, 532, 
 533; suspended, 536; deprived, 543, 544; 
 advice to Dr. Beveridge, 543. 
 
 Sanctuary of St. Martin's church, 508. 
 Sanders, Captain, 561. Sanderson, Sir 
 Wm., funeral of, 390. Sanderson, Dr., 
 sermon of, 262. Sands, travelling, ac- 
 count of, 3^6. Sandwich, Earl of, 308, 
 309* 345 ; East India prizes, and courage. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 613 
 
 Jic» 314, 336; observations at Madnd, 
 337 ; President of Commission of Trade, 
 354* 355 ; death at battle of Solebay, 
 366 ; character of, 367 ; funeral, 368 ; 
 Sandys, Rev. Mr. , 576. Sansovino, 
 Jacobo, sculpture by, 137, 139, 142, 
 166 ; Piazza of St. Mark, by, 160 ; his 
 burial-place, 160. Santa Clara, Fra. de, 
 485. Sapienza at Rome, 139. Saracin, 
 Mens., goldsmith of Paris, 49. Sarto, Del 
 (Andrea Vannucchi), paintings by, 54, 80, 
 iSi, 152, 153, 258 ; burial-place, 151. 
 Saturn, eclipse of (1660), 275. Saville, Sir 
 George (Marquis of Halifax), 288. Saville, 
 vice-chamberlain, 344, 468. Saville 
 (Countess of Monte Feltre), 448. 
 
 Saumeurs, Mons., 202. Savoy, persecuted 
 Christians of, collections for, 242, 537. 
 Savoy, Duke of, his persecution of Protest- 
 ants, 500, 537, 540. Savoy hospital, sick 
 and wounded lodged at, 306, 317. Saxe 
 Gottorp, Duke of, 503. Sayes Court, Sir 
 R. Browne's house at, afterwards Evelyn's, 
 197, 223, 270, 271, 284, 292, 361 ; garden at, 
 225,441,454,732; amole for ships designed at, 
 245 ; let to Peter the Great. 571 ; let to Lord 
 Carmarthen, 581. Scala Sancta, at Rome, 
 104, 105. Scaliger, Joseph, 441 ; his burial- 
 place, 30. Scaliger, Julius Caesar, statue 
 of, 178 ; his eulogy of Verona, i&. Scaligeri, 
 Princes of Verona, monument of, 177. 
 Scaramucchio, Italian, performance at 
 WhitehaU, 386. Scarborough, Sir Charles, 
 224, 344 ; library, 560. Scawen, Sir Wm., 
 M.P. for Surrey, 589. Schomberg, Mar- 
 shal, S4.0 ; expedition to Ireland, 535. 
 Schotti, scholar of Kircher, 123. Scipio 
 Africanus, statue of, 66. Sclater, Edward, 
 apostate curate of Putney, 499. Sconvelt, 
 Nicholas, famous for his lutes, 156. Scorn- 
 ful Lady, performance of, 270. Scot, Sir 
 Thomas, and his seat Scotshall, 293. Scot, 
 Lady Catherine (dau. of Earl of Norwich), 
 200, 206. Scot, Major, 263. Scot, regicide, 
 executed, 261. Scots, Parliament against 
 their settling in Darien, 69. 
 
 Scotland, conduct of bishops of (1689), 506 ; 
 declares for William and Mary, 533 ; com- 
 missioners offer the crown, 534 ; episcopacy 
 again voted down in, 535 ; Presbyterians of, 
 53g. Scotus de la Marca, paintmg by, 
 288. Scriveners, company of, 397. Scroope, 
 Sir Andrew, ^62. Scroope, regicide, exe- 
 cuted, 268. Scroope, Lady, 451. Scuda- 
 mor, Mr., 200, 228. Sea-coa), project of 
 charring, 249. Second sight, instance of, 
 485. Sedans introduced into England, 
 132. Sedley, Sir Charles, and his daughter 
 Catherine, Countess of Dorchester, 373. 
 Sedum arborescens, 429. Selden, John, 
 331; his 'Titles of Honour,' 243. Self- 
 denying Act, contest about, 551. Sem- 
 brador, brought out of Spain, 337. Senetan, 
 Mons., of Paris, 210. Sensitive plant, 
 experiment on, 277. Septalla, Sign., 
 collection of, 183. 
 
 Sermon in blank verse, 228 ; accounts of ser- 
 mons, 242, 250, 308, 344, 443, 460, 510. 513 ; 
 
 an hour and half long, 415 ". old-fashioned 
 Sennon contrasted with those of (1683), 445- 
 
 Sermoneta, Da (Girolamo Siciolante), 
 painting by, 106. Seven Dials, building 
 of, 558. Severus Septimius, arch of, 88 ; 
 baths, 133. Sewers, commission of, 250, 
 292. Seymour.Lord, house at Marlborough, 
 228. Seymour, Mr. Conyers (son of Sir 
 Edward), killed in a duel, 573. Seymour, 
 Mr., impeaches Earl of Clarendon, 334. 
 Seymour, Mr., speech on elections (16B5), 
 478. Seymour, Sir Edward, 553, 583. 
 Sfrondati, Cardinal, Church built by, 133. 
 Shaen, Sir James, 389. Shaftesbury, Earl 
 of, 337 ; president of Council for Planta- 
 tions, 360, 370 ; anecdote of Lord Clifford 
 related by, 376 ; crafty conduct of, 445. 
 Sharp, Mr. Samuel, surgeon, 370. Sharp, 
 Dr. (afterwards Archbishop of York), 
 attempt to silence, 501, 502 ; sermon before 
 the Commons (1689), 528 ; other sermons 
 of, 555, 565. Shaw, Sir John, house at 
 Eltham. 297. Sheen, Abbey of. Lord 
 Brouncker's, Sir William Temple's, and 
 Lord Lisle's, 401, 402, 514. Sheemess, 
 arsenal at, 315 ; fortified, 330, 364 ; ciui- 
 osities dug up at, 336. 
 
 Sheldon, Abp. , 304, 310, 316, 337, 340, 343, 
 365 ; translated from London to Canter- 
 bury, 294 ; theatre, &c. , at Oxford built 
 ^Yi 299. 300, 340 ; monument, 579 ; sermoa 
 of, 271. Sheldon, Mr. Edward, 555. 
 Sheldon, Ralph, collection of coins, 460. 
 Sheldon, Mr. (nephew of Archbishop), 
 his house, 401. Sherard, Lord, 346. Shere, 
 Mr. Duncomb's house at, 372. Sherlock, 
 Dr., 493 Sherwin, Mr., trial with Sir 
 Wal. Clarges, 578. Ship of q6 guns built 
 by Cromwell, 242. Shipbuilding, art of, 
 by Sir Anthony Deane, 432. Shirley, 
 James, his ' Young Admiral, '290. Shirley, 
 Mrs., 261. Shish, Mr., 416 ; vessel built 
 by, 335, 441 ; shoes, various fashions of, 
 344. Shooter's Hill, mineral waters at, 
 574. Shore, Sir Bartholomew, 46S, Short, 
 Dr., consulted by Charles II., 558. Shot- 
 over, Sir T. Tyrrell's house at, 384. 
 
 Shrewsbury, Earl of, 411. Shrewsbury, 
 the abandoned Countess of, 310, 410. 
 Shrewsbury, Duke of, 561, 567, 578. Sib- 
 bald, Sir Robert, 501. Siciliano, Jacomo, 
 painting by, 94. Sick and Wounded, and 
 Prisoners of War, Commissioners appointed 
 (1664), 301, 302. Mr. Evelyn's proceedings 
 as Commissioner, 302, 306, 307, 309, 310, 
 3i5» 316, 317. 325. 331. 332. 335, 363, 364. 
 I 367, 368, 369, 377- Sidney, Lord, 
 offices held by, in Ireland, 542, 543, 554. 
 Sidney, Algernon, appiahended, 443, 445- 
 455 ; beheaded, 452 ; character of, id. ; 
 story of, 482. Sidney, Sir Philip, 20^, 223. 
 Sidney, Lady Dorothy (Waller's oacha- 
 rissa), 223. Sidney, Colonel, alleged father 
 of the Duke of Monmouth, 396. Sienna, 
 Baltazar di, arch by, 83. Sienna, account 
 of, 82, 83, 84 ; University, 83 ; Cathedral, 
 ih., 84, 149 ; Hospital, St. Francis's 
 Church, 83. Silk stockings, engine for 
 weaving, 275. Simon, Abraham, medal 
 engraver, 226. Simplon, Mount, 186. 
 Simson, Mr., his agate cup, 242. Sion, 
 Switzerland, observations on, 188. Sioa, 
 
6i4 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Duke of Ncithumberland's seat, 308. 
 SiranI, Elizabetta, painter, 156. Sissac, 
 Marquis de, loss of, at play, 391. 
 
 Sixtus v., horses on Monte Cavallo repaired 
 by, 93 ; aqueduct, 94 ; chapel, 95 ; Con- 
 stantine's pillar re-erected by, 105, 139; 
 statue of St. Peter on Trajan's column, 140. 
 Skates, introduction of, into England, 
 2qo. Skippon, Sir Philip, his account of 
 \Votton's early talents, 408. Sky, remark- 
 able appearance in (1643), 39. Slaning, 
 Sir Nicholas, his marriage, 289. SHngsby, 
 Sir Arthur, 200 ; his lottery, 297 ; gover- 
 nor of Portsmouth, 409. Slingsby, M"* 
 288, 317, 331, 390, 400, 411, 460 ; master of 
 the mint, 290 ; house at Burrow Green, 
 346 ; secretary to council for trade, 354 ; 
 a lover of musick, 380, 412 ; in decayed 
 circumstances, 572, Sloane, Sir Hans, 
 secretary to Royal Society, 571 ; his col- 
 lection, 543. Smal!-pox, ravages of (1694), 
 558, 559- Smith, Sir Jer., bravery of, 373. 
 Smith, Mr. Robert, 567 ; marriage of, 223 ; 
 Smith, Mr., Speaker of House of Com- 
 mons, 590. Smithfield, woman burnt in 
 (1652), 220. Smyrna Fleet, attack on (1672), 
 362, 363 ; earthquake at Smyrna, 520. 
 Snape, King's farrier, fatl^r of Dr Snape, 
 441. Snake, Virginian rattle, 253. Snatt, 
 Edward, schoolmaster at Southover, 19. 
 Sneyder, paintings by, 52. Soames, Sir 
 Wm., ambassador to Constantinople, 484. 
 Society for propagating the Gospel, allow- 
 ance to Missionaiies (1702), 584. Soldiers, 
 i3uartering of, in private houses prevented 
 in (1685), by Evelyn, 482. Solitude, Mac- 
 kenzie's Essay on, 326. Solomon, Proverbs 
 of, exquisitely written, 230. 
 
 Somers, Lord^ made Lord Keeper, 552 ; 
 elected President of the Royal Society, 
 571 ; charge brought by Parliament against, 
 576 ; seals taken from him, 578 ; trial of, 
 581. Somerset, Lord John, 86, 136. 
 Somerset, Duke of, estate left to (1705), 
 589. Sorbonne, Paris, account of, 45, 
 46. Sovereign, ship of war, built by 
 ship-money, 24 ; burnt, 563. South, Dr., 
 501 ; university orator, 340 ; sermons 
 of, 294, 399. Southampton, Earl of, Lord 
 Treasurer, 203, 297, 303, 330, 374. South- 
 ampton, Duke of, 391. Southover, Sussex, 
 free school at, 19. Southwark Fair (1660), 
 267 ; suppressed, 551. Southwell, Sir 
 Robert, on 'Water,' 384; envoy to 
 Brandenburgh, 416; Secretary of State 
 in Ireland, 542 ; President of Royal 
 Society, 542, 555, 571. Soutman, Peter, 
 engraving by, i8i._ Spa Wells, Islington, 
 501, Spada, Cardinal, palace of, 136. 
 
 Spain, Queen of, catafalco of (1645), ib. Spain 
 and Portugal, umpirage between (1666), 
 313. Spanheim, Ezeklel, author of ' Trea- 
 tise on Medals,' 387. Spanish Galleon, 
 weighed up near Hispaniola (1687), 514 ; 
 taken at Vigo (1702), 585. Sparrow, Dr., 
 sermon of, 372. Spelman, Mr. (grandson of 
 Sir Henr^'), 347. Spencer, present Earl, 
 house at Wimbledon, 283 Spencer, Lord 
 (son of Earl of Sunderland), intended mar- 
 riage of, 427 ; character, ib., 519 ; alluded 
 
 to, 542 ; marriage, 559 ; library, 572 , 
 Mr., 223, 248. Spencer, I^dy Anne, 
 marriage to the Earl of Arran, 512. Spencer, 
 Charles, afterwards Earl of Sunderland, 
 519, 585. Spencer, Martha, 414. Spencer, 
 Robert, 342, 384. Spencer, Col., 267. Spil- 
 burg, J., view by, 325. Spinola, Marquis, 
 river cut by, 37 ; gardens, 75. Spragge, ex- 
 pedition against, and the Smyrna fleet, 363. 
 
 Spratt, Dr., Bp. (of Rochester), 341, 386, 
 413, 422, 441, 453. .475. 502, 503; a com- 
 missioner for ecclesiastical affairs ; resigns, 
 519; prayer (1688), on the young Prince's 
 birth, 517; his observations on Sorbiere, 
 119. Spring Garden (1654), 228; Spring 
 garden at Lambeth, 277. Spy Park, Sir 
 Ed. Baynton's, 228. Squirries, at Wester- 
 ham in Kent, 258. Stafford, Viscount, 345 ; 
 antipathy to roses, ib. ; committed for 
 Popish plot, 407 ; trial, 422 — 425 ; be- 
 haviour on his trial, 425 ; beheaded, 426. 
 Staly, executed, 405. Standlsh, Dr., 483. 
 Standsfield, John, 17, 18. Stanhope, Lord. 
 205, 208 ; Lady, 390. Stanhope, Dean, 
 discourses of, 555, 562. Stanhope, Mr., 
 Gentleman Usher, 346. Stapleton, Sir 
 Robert, translator of Juvenal, 228 ; Staple- 
 ton, Col., Gov. of St. Christopher's, 365. 
 Stationers' Company, their great loss in the 
 fire of London, 321. Stawell, Sir Edward, 
 442. Steenwyck, Henry, paintings by, 
 35i 52, 198, 200. Stephen, King, tomb at 
 Gloucester, 234. Stephens, Mr., cousin 
 of Evelyn, 200, 225, 233, 249. Stephens, 
 Mr., attorney, 284, Stephens, William, 
 sermon censured, 576. Stern, Dr., Arch- 
 bishop of York, 551. 
 
 Stewart, Dr., Dean of St. Paul's, 212, 217 ; 
 his death, 219. Stidolph, Sir F., house at 
 Mickleham, 241. Slillingfleet, Bp. , 515, 
 548; his library, 513. Stoake, North, Sus- 
 sex, estate at, 413. Stokes, Dr., 241, 249 ; 
 perpetual motion, 337. Stola Tybertina 
 (at Rome), 1^3. Stone, Sir Robert, 37. 
 Stone, operation for, 204. Stonehenge, 
 description of, 234. Stonehouse, Sir John, 
 413, 414, 415 ; Lady Stonehouse, 389. 
 Stoope, Monsieur, speech of, 268. Storm, 
 in (1652), 223 ; (1662), 283 ; (1687), 509 * 
 (i68g), 535 ; (1690), 537. Strade, Count de la 
 liberal conduct of, 218, 220, Stradling, Sll 
 William, 27, Stradling, Dr., 294. Straf- 
 ford, Superior of English Jesuits at Rome, 
 136. Strafford, Earl of, 202 ; trial and exe- 
 cution, 532. Strafford, Lord, son of pre- 
 ceding, 211, 212. Streeter, Mr., paintings 
 by» 352, 370, 411, 436 ; tormented with the 
 stone, 379. Streets of London, commission 
 for regulating, 284, 286, 293. Strickland, 
 Sir Thomas, 357. Stringfellow, Mr., minis- 
 ter of Trinity chapel, sermons by, 545, 555, 
 559j 576. Stroode, Sir Nicholas, 298. 
 Stroode, Col., lisutenant of Dover Castle, 
 303. Stuart, Lady Catherine, 378. Stuart, 
 Mrs. Frances, the celebrated beauty^ ib. 
 Stubbe, Henry, hostile to Royal Society, 
 650. Sturbridge fair, 240. Suffolk, Earl 
 of, his palace at Audley End, 240. Suffolk, 
 Countess of (1674), 385. Suffolk House, 
 near Charing Croris, 241. Suitlas, ancient 
 
INDEX. 
 
 bI5 
 
 ftS. of. 573. Sun, eclipse of the (1652), 
 220 ; (1699), 574. 
 
 Sunderland. Earl of, his widow (1652), 223. 
 Sunderland, Lord, 442, 462, 484, 572 ; am- 
 bassador to Spain (1671), 3^8 ; and France, 
 (1672), 370 ; his seat at Althorp, 385 ; Vos- 
 terman's view of it, 399 ; secretary of state, 
 411 ; his unfeeling conduct respectine Lord 
 Ossory, 417 ; suiik by gaming (1681), 428 ; 
 president of the council (1685), 494 ; a com- 
 missioner for ecclesiastical affairs, 502 ; 
 knight of the garter, 509 ; marriage of his 
 daughter, 512 ; the seals taken away from, 
 (i683), 522 ; meditates flight, 524 ; kisses the 
 King's hand on his return from Holland 
 Ci6qi), 544 ; his library, 561 ; entertains 
 WilHam III. at Althorp, 563 ; a favourite, 
 and obnoxious to the people, ib. Sunder- 
 land (Lady Anne Spencer), Countess of, 
 (1671), 358, 370, 388, 389, 406, 412, 417, 427, 
 447. 463. 473' 475. 504, 505. 535; 544. 5^6 ; 
 letters of Mr. Evelyn to, enclosing a cata- 
 logue of religious books for her use, 586. 
 
 Supper, Paschal, represented in wax- 
 work, 364; of Leonardo da Vinci, 181. 
 Surrey, address to the King (1697), 570. 
 Sussex, address to the King (1660), 265. 
 Sussex, Earl of {temp. Q. Eliz.), 249 ; 
 (1661), 272. Sussex, Countess of, 381 ; 
 daughter of Charles IL, 391, 432. Sutton, 
 Sir Edward, skill on Irish harp, 338. 
 Sutton in Shere, Mr. Hussey's house, 429. 
 Swearing, declaration against, set forth, 
 577. Sweate, Dr., Dean of the Arches, 
 294. Swiss, the observations relative to, 
 i8g, igo. Sydenham, wells at, 3B7. Sylva, 
 or Discourse of Forest Trees, by Evelyn, 
 289, 295, 343. Evelyn thanked by Charles 
 II., 300. Sylvius, Sir Gabriel, 326, 386, 
 397, 441 ; his mission to Denmark, 478. 
 Synagogue at Amsterdam, 27. 
 
 Taberna, Meritoria of the Romans, 115. 
 Tacca, Pietro, statue by, 381. Talbot, Sir 
 Gilbert, master of the jewels, 287, 370. 
 Talbot^ Sherrington (son of Sir John), 
 killed in a duel, 480. Tangiers, expedition 
 to, 417. Tapestry at Hampton Court, 285 ; 
 at Duchess of Portsmouth's, 450. Targoni, 
 altar by, 106 ; Tatham, John, pageants by, 
 279, 288, 289, 301. Tax-money from Scot- 
 land, robbery of (1692), 551. Taxes during 
 the Usurpation, 244. Taxus, or Deadly 
 Yew, 150. Taylor, Dr. Jeremy (Bp. of 
 Down and Connor), Mr. Evelyn's spiritual 
 adviser, 243, 252, 253, 257, 415 ; on original 
 sin, 244, 247 ; disputes with M. Le Franc, 
 and procures him ordination, ib. ; his cas^s 
 of conscience, 251 ; sermons of, 227, 243, 
 257, Taylor, Capt., case against Lord 
 Mordaunt, 325. 
 
 Teignmouth, French troops landed at, 541. 
 Tempesta, Antonio, work of, 104. Temple, 
 Sir Purbeck, 561, 562, 577- Temple, Lady 
 Purbeck, trial with her nephew, Mr. lem- 
 ple, 567, 577. Temple, Sir William, 431, 
 468 ; his house at Sheene, 395, 402, 574- 
 Temple Bar, human quarters set up at, 
 565. Temple, Inner, revels at, 570. Tem- 
 ple, Middle, revels at, 38, 335. Teneriffe, 
 
 Peak of, 271. Tenison, Apb., vicar of St. 
 Martin's, 422, 440, 456, 474, 480, 481, 507, 
 517. 545, S47, 552> 558, 562, 573. 576; li- 
 brary founded by, at St. Martin's, 455, 
 456, 481, 546; sermons of, 457, 468, 
 475, 498, 508, 520, 545, 552 ; chapel in 
 Conduit-street opened by, 545 ; Bishop oi 
 Lincoln, 547 ; a trustee for the Boyle lec- 
 ture, 548, 555, 588 ; on the author of 
 * Whole Duty of Man,' 551; tabernacle 
 near Golden-square set up by, 552 ; Abp. 
 of Canterbury, 558 ; a Commissioner for 
 Greenwich Hospital, 561 ; visit of Evelyn 
 at Lambeth, 561 ; opinion respecting Bp. 
 Watson, 568 ; Terra di Lavoro, 123. Terra- 
 cina, formerly Anxur, 121. Terrasso, 
 Marco, lapidarj', 175. Terrella, notice of, 
 243. Test, sacramental (1673), 373. Test 
 (1678). doubts respecting taking it, 406; 
 remarks on the test (1689), 532, 534. 
 
 Testaceus, Mons., at Rome, 134. Testa- 
 ment, New, in vulgar Latin. MS., 560. 
 Thames, river, frozen over (1648), 197 ; 
 design of wharfing from the Temple to the 
 Tower, 326 ; frozen over, and streets of 
 booths, coaches, &c., and amusements, 
 upon it (1684), 454, 555 ; frozen over(i695), 
 550. Thea Root, 540. Theatre of Mar- 
 ceflus at Rome, 90. Theobaldi, building by, 
 180. Thetford, town of, 393. Thicknesse, 
 James, of Balliol College, 20, 40, 66, 171. 
 Thistlethwalte, Dr. , sermon of, 370. 
 Thomas, Bp. of Worcester, conscientious 
 scruples, 551. Thomond, Lord, house at 
 Newmarket, 347. Thornheuser, a German 
 chymist, 80. Thornhill, Mr., 244. Thorpe, 
 seat of the regicide St. John, 239. Thou, 
 President de, 205. Thrisco, Mr. , 262. Thuil- 
 leries. Palace, account of, 51 ; gardens, 52. 
 
 ■J'hurland, Sir Edward, 336, 386. Thynn, 
 Lady Isabella, painting of, 198. Thynn, 
 Mr., his marriage with the widow of Lord 
 Ogle, 429, 430 ; murder of, 433 ; his monu- 
 ment in Westminster Abbey^ ib. Thynn, 
 Mr., 494. Tilbury Fort built, 363. Til- 
 lotson, Dr., 337, 341, 440, 547 ; o"} the 
 Papists, 405, 475, 504, 530; Archbishop 
 of Canterbury, 543, 544- Tintoretto, 
 II (Giacomo Robusti), paintings by, 163, 
 168, 223. Tippett, Sir John, his nephew, 
 454. Tippin, Mr., sermon by, 553- Tithe 
 Ale, 238. Titles of Honour, by Selden, 
 243. Titian (Tiziano Vecelli da Cadore), 
 paintings by, 35. 52, "o. i52> iSSj. ^66, 
 168, 258, 406, 420, 463, 565 ; tomb ot, 16S. 
 Titus, triumphal arch of, p6 ; baths and 
 statues from, 108, 109. Titus, Col. Silas, 
 author of * KiUing no Murder,' 340, 354> 
 423, 517- Tividale, Lord, a Scotch noble- 
 man, 295, 412. Tiviot, Lord, a Commis- 
 sioner of Privy Seal, 495- Tiyoli, 146, 
 147. Toledo, Peter de, 128 ; Palace of, 
 129 Toleration, universal declaration of 
 (1672), 363. Tombs, Mr., his garden, 227. 
 Tomson, merchant, of Genoa, 73. Tomson, 
 Te'iuit, curiosities consigned to his care 
 from China, 296. Tong, Dr. Ezrael, Popish 
 conspiracy discovered by him and Gates. 
 404 ; account of him, ib. ; his Moral 
 Practice of the Jesuits,' 30a. 
 
6i6 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Torrington, Earl of, imprisonment of, 541. 
 Torso of Amphion and Dirce, 87. Tor- 
 ture, account of a malefactor under- 
 going the punishment of, 210. Tours, 
 account of the city of, 63, 64. Townshend, 
 Lord, creation of, 272. Tradescant, John, 
 Museum of, 253, 401. Trajan, Column of, 
 at Rome, 140. Treacle, drugs used 
 in manufacture of, 262. Trean, mer- 
 chant, his collection of pictures, 198. 
 Treby (Lord Chief Justice), recorder of 
 London, 423, 450, 567, 580. Trelawney, 
 Bp., against James II. 's Declaration of 
 Liberty of Conscience, 515 ; sent to the 
 Tower, 516 ; acquitted, 517. Trenchard, 
 Sir Jo. , secretary of state, 552. Trenchard, 
 !IMr. , apprehended for the plot (1683), 443 ; 
 enlarged, 453. Trevor, Sir John, 354, 568 
 Tiinita del Monte, at Rome, 138, 
 
 Trinity, Platonists MSS. concerning the, 
 562. Trinity College, Cambridge, 239. 
 Trinity Chapel, Conduit Street, 545, 
 Trinity House, incorporated, 283 ; great 
 dinner at (1665), 305 ; re-assemble after 
 the plague, 315 ; land for their almshouses 
 given by Sir R. Browne, 353 ; younger 
 brothers (Sir R. Browne and Sir Jer. 
 Smith, masters), 371, 373 ; account of a 
 meeting (1685), 482. Triplet, Mr., 247. 
 Trollop, Mrs., marriage of, 421. Trout, 
 excellent, in the Rhone, igi. Truffles, 
 earth-nuts, 69. Tudor, Mr. Quinquina, 
 introduced, 558. Tufton, Sir Jo., 243. 
 
 Tuke, Sir Brian, portrait of, by Holbein, 
 402. Tuke, Sir Charles, 357, 541, 612; 
 birch, death, and character of, 542. Tuke, 
 George, 245, 252,260 ; marriage, 247. Tuke, 
 Sir Samuel, 263, 295 ; at Pans, 201 ; 
 hai-aogue in behalf of Papists, 265 ; sent to 
 break the marriage of the Duke to the 
 Queen Mother, 268 ; sent to Paris on the 
 death of Card. Mazarine, 271 ; play by, 
 2go ; his marriage, 296, 336 ; christening of 
 his son, 360 ; speech in House of Lords in 
 behalf of the Papists, 371. Tuke, Lady, 
 372, 378, 456. 472, 475- 
 
 Tulliola, daughter of Cicero, supposed corpse 
 of, discovered, 125. Tu-ly, Dr., suspended 
 from his cure, 501. Tully's Offices, an 
 early printed book, 572. Tunbridge Free- 
 school, 306. Tunbridge Wells, beauties of, 
 277, 297. Turberville, evidence against 
 Vise. Stafford, 422. Turk christened at 
 Rome, 139. Turk, a rope-dancer so called, 
 £52. Turkey, Fleet destroyed by storm 
 (1693), 559. Turks, costly equipments in 
 the field, 461. Turner, Dr. Francis, Bp. 
 of Ely, Dean of Windsor, 442, 456, 493 ; 
 sermon by, when Bp. of Rochester, 456 ; 
 other sermons, 460, 496 ; petitions James 
 II. against Declaration of Liberty of Con- 
 science, 515 ; sent to the Tower, 516 j tried 
 and acquitted, 517 ; at a meeting of Bishops 
 in i68g, respecting the Succession, 525 ; 
 deprived for not taking the oaths to 
 William and Mary, 543, 544 ; at Bp. 
 White's funeral, 571 ; alluded to, 497. 
 Turner, Dr. (brother of the Ep. of Ely), 
 sermon by, 495. 
 
 Turnham Green, Sir John Chardine's head. 
 
 589. Tuscany, Prince of, vifSt to Royal 
 Society, 340. Twickenham Park, Lord 
 Berkeley's seat, 389. Twisden, Sir Roger, 
 310. Typography, invention of, 31. Ty- 
 rannus, or the Mode, a pamphlet by Mr. 
 Evelyn, 280 ; anecdote relative to, 324. 
 Tyrconnell, Earl, 540, 542 ; powers given 
 to, in Ireland (1686), 500, 504 ; appomted 
 Lord Lieutenant, 505; Ireland endangered 
 by his army (i63q), 529, 531. Tyrell, Sir 
 Tim., marriage, house at SHotover, 299, 
 384. Tyrill, Mr. I 304. Tyson, Dr., ana- 
 tomist, 460. 
 
 Vaga, Pierino del, 138 ; paintings by, 54, 
 2o6. Valence, city of, 69, 70. Vambre, near 
 Paris, 204, 205. Vanbeck, Barbara, a 
 hairy woman, 253. Vanbrugh, Mr., Sec- 
 retary to the Commission for Greenwich 
 Hospital, 561. Vandall, painting by, 27. 
 Vanderborcht, portrait of Evelyn by, 24. 
 Vander Douse, Mr., 441. Vandervoorst, 
 Mr., of Venice, his books, 174. Vandyke, 
 Sir Anthony, paintings by, 227, 258, 339, 
 302, 406, 462, 463, 514, 553, 592. ^ Vane, 
 old Sir Harry, confined in Carisbrook 
 Castle, 249. Vane, Sir Henry the younger, 
 a Privy Counsellor, 517, 554. Vanni, 
 picture by, 133. Vanni, Curtlus, 106. Van 
 Tromp, Admiral, 326. Vasari, Giorgio, 
 paintings by, 136, 153. Vatican, ceremony 
 of conferring Cardinal's hat, 99 ; descrip- 
 tion of, 113 — 118 ; library, 116. Vaudo:» 
 Protestants, collection for, 537 ; restored 
 to their country, 540 ; received by German 
 princes, 572. Vaughan, Lord Chief Jus- 
 tice, 331. Vauxball, Sir Samuel Morland'.s 
 house at, 429. Udin^, Da' (Giovanni 
 Nanni), painting by, 114. Veau, M. , his 
 academy of horsemanship, 59. Veins, 
 arteries, and nerves, tables of, purchased 
 by Evelyn at Padua, 174, 199 ; lent to 
 College of Physicians, 224 ; presented to 
 the Royal Society, 325, 583. Veletri, 120. 
 Vendosme, Duke of, a brother of, 442. 
 Venetian ambassador, entry into London 
 (1696), 565. 
 
 Venice, description of (1645-6), 158, 167, 168, 
 16^, 170 — 175, 242 ; the bagnios, 158 ; 
 ongin of Venice, ib. ; the espousal of the 
 Adriatic, 151 ; gondolas, zA; Rialto ; taking 
 the air on the canal ; Fondlgi deTodeschi ; 
 Merceria, 160 ; piazza of St. Mark and 
 clock over the arch, ib. ; church of St. 
 Mark, 161 ; Tresoro di San Marco, or reli- 
 quary, ib. ; exchange, senate-hall, 162 ; 
 Zecca or mint, tower of St. Mark, 163 ; 
 mart in Ascension week, costume of Vene- 
 tian ladies, courtesans, citizens, 164 ; the 
 opera ; Ghetto de San Felice, z6. ; the 
 arsenal, 167 ; execution, 168 ; church ot 
 St. Johanne and Paulo, ib. ; St. George's 
 (a Greek church)^ 169 ; other churches- 
 island of St. Maria Maggiore and church, 
 i^. ; other islands, ib. ; island of Muran 
 and glass manufactory, 170, 171 ; island of 
 St. Michael and church, id. ; Sign. Ru- 
 gini's collection, 172, 173; the carnival; 
 operas. 173 ; the Ghetto ; a Jewish mar* 
 
INDEX. 
 
 617 
 
 riage, 174 ; lapidaries, 175 ; policy of Venice 
 with regard to Vihcenza, 177. 
 Venipont, John, Campanile built by, 76. 
 Venus, statues of, 153. Venus of Correggio, 
 554. Venusti. Marcello, paintings by, 139. 
 Vemeuille, Duke of, 307. Vernon, Mr., sec- 
 retary of state, 578. Verona, description of 
 (1646), 178, l^g ; amphitheatre, remains of 
 former magnificence, ib. ; Count (jiusti's 
 villa, 178 ; Scaliger's praises of, ib. Vero- 
 nica, St., altar, 102 ; handkerchief, 143. 
 Verrio, Sign., 411 ; his garden, 410, 417 ; 
 fresco paintings by, at Euston, 328 ; at 
 Windsor, 400, 410, 442, 484 ; at Cashiobury, 
 415 ; Chiswick, 442 ; Montague House, 
 451 ; Ashted, 457 ; Whitehall, 505 ; charac- 
 ter of his paintings, 442 ; settled at St. 
 James's, 502. Verrochii, Andrea, statue 
 by, 168. Verulam, Lord, 297. Vespasian, 
 temple of Peace, built by, 87 ; amphi- 
 theatre of, 97. Vestlingius, Dr., of Padua, 
 170, 172, 174, 335. Vesuvius, Mount, 
 account of, 125, 126, 127. Vienna, siege 
 of (1683), 440. Vienne, account of, 69. 
 Vignola, architect, 91, 149, 723. Ville- 
 frow, in Flanders, 35. Villiers, Lord 
 Francis, slain, 196. Vincennes, Bois de, 
 47. Vincent, Sir Francis, 544. 
 Vincenza, account of (1646), 170, 177 ; hall of 
 justice, theatre, 176 ; piazza, Count Ulma- 
 rini's garden, 177. Vinci, Leonardo da, 
 paintings by, 52, 54, 80, 156, 180, 258, 392 ; 
 his Ccena Domini at Milan, 181 ; his death, 
 181. Viner, Sir George, carving by Gib- 
 bon purchased by, 353. Viner, Sir Robert, 
 banker, 407. Vineyard, peculiar planting 
 of one, 65. Viol d'amore, a musical instru- 
 ment, 412, Virgilius Evangelizans, 225. 
 Virgil's tomb, 127. Virgin Queen, by Dry- 
 den, 327. Virginian rattle-snake, 253. Visse, 
 Mons., concert at his house, 208. Vitel- 
 lesco, Hippolito, his collection of statues, 
 109, Viterbo, brief account of, 86. Vitru- 
 vius, statue of, 178. Ulmarini, Count, of 
 Vincenza, 177. Union, a fine sort of pearl, 
 138. University College, Oxon, 385. 
 Volaterra, F., church built by, 139. Vol- 
 pone, a play, 219. Volterra, Di (Daniele 
 Ricciabelli), paintings by, 136, 138. Vos- 
 sius, Isaac, 371, 388, 389 ; Vostermann, 
 painting by, 399. Upman, Mr., 390. 
 Upnor Castle, fortified, 329, 368. Uppmg- 
 ham, Rutland, brief notice of, 235. Vrats, 
 Col., assassin of Mr. Thynn, executed, 
 433, 434- Urban VIIL, Pope, public 
 works of, 88, loi, 102, 117, 138 ; his monu- 
 ment, 103 ; statue, 120. Ursino, Fulvius, 
 museum of, 87. Usher, Archbishop of 
 Armagh, sermons of, 199, 200, 220, 429 ; 
 conversation with Evelyn, 243; his 
 daughter, 299 ; prophecy of, 493 '> ^^^^ ^^^ 
 letters, 498; Dr. Parr his chaplain, 361, 
 429. Vulcan, court of, 128 ; the temple, 
 129. 
 
 Wade, Capt., court-martial on, 585. Wains- 
 ibrd, Mr., 209. Wake, Dr. (afterwards 
 Archbishop), 582; sermons of, 504> 5o8. 
 Wakeman, Sir George, his trial, 468, 475- 
 
 Waldenses, destruction of, 533. Waldrond, 
 Dr., 364. Wales, Prince of, son of James 
 II., birth of, 520, 548, 576 ; James II. calls 
 council to testify his birth, 522 ; sent to 
 Portsmouth with treasure, 524. Wall- 
 grave, Dr., physician, his skill on the lute, 
 380, 456, 462. Walgrave, Sir H., created 
 a peer, 496. Walker, Sir Edward, 293 ; 
 anecdote of Lord Clifford told by, 376. 
 Walker, Dr. Obadiah, 198, 217 ; in com- 
 mission to thank Evelyn for procuring 
 Arundelian Marbles, 334 ; University Col- 
 lege repaired by, 385 ; dispensation granted 
 to, 499 ; perverted several young gentlemen 
 to the Romish faith, ib. ; license to print 
 popish book refused, 500 ; his Treatise on 
 Medals, 569. Walker, Dr. (of London 
 derry), death of, 540. 
 Wall, Jo., account of, 45, 46. Waller, Ed- 
 mund, in Italy and France after his escape, 
 I75i 176) 194, 196, 197, 2o3, 212 ; his return 
 to England, 217 ; a commissioner of trade, 
 354. Waller, Sir Hardress, 382. Wallei. 
 Richard, of Groomsbridge, 223. Waller^ 
 Sir William, 38. Waller, _ Mr., extraor- 
 dinary talents of, 556. Wallis, Dr., mathe- 
 matical professor, 268, 299, 341. Walter, 
 Sir William, ''428. Walters, Mrs. Lucy, 
 391. Walton, Bp., his Bibha Polyglotta, 
 224. Walton heath, Roman Antiquities 
 found on, 259. Wanstead House, Sir 
 Josiah Child's, 439. War, prisoners of, 
 treaty for exchanging, 306. Ward, Dr. 
 Seth, afterwards Bishop of Salisbury, 229, 
 377, 442. Ward, Mrs., solicits an Order 
 of Jesuitesses, 148. Warley Magna, 
 Essex, manor of, 200. 
 Warren, Dr., sermon of, 504. Warrington, 
 Lord, death of (1693), 555. Warwick, Guy 
 of, arms of, 235 ; Grot and chapel, ib. 
 Warwick, Earl of (i66i), 272. Warwick, 
 Sir Philip, 266, 294, 295, 296, 386. War- 
 wick, castle and town of, 234. Warwick, 
 Constant, frigate, 538. Warwickshire, 
 address to Charles II., 265. Wase, Christo- 
 pher, 217, 220, 339, 340. Waterworks, by 
 Mr. Winstanley, at Chelsea, 565. Watbon, 
 Dr. Thomas, Bp. of St. David's, sus- 
 pended for simony, 568 ; deprived, 574. 
 Watts, Mr. , keeper of Apothecaries' 
 garden, 482. 
 Way-wiser, description of that instrument, 
 252. Weather, observations on (1649), 202; 
 (1666), 325; (1670), 350; (i684\ 453, 454, 
 455 ; (1685), 458, 459, 460 ; (16S6), 462, 478, 
 479 ; (1687), 500, 501, 502 ; (1688), 509, 511 : 
 (1091). 51^ ; (1692), 546, 547 ; (1693), 547— 
 55T ; (1694), 552—555 ; (1695), 555. 557j 558, 
 559, 560, 561—563; (1696), 563, 567—570; 
 (1697) 568, 569; (1699), S72. 574, 575; 
 (1700), 577, 578 ; (1701). 581, 582 ; (1703), 
 ■;86, 587 ; (1705), 589- 
 Weathercocks fixed on trees, 366. Webb, 
 
 , paintings in his possession, 198, 
 
 Webb, Mr., architect, 279. Weese-house, 
 at Amsterdam, 28. Welbeck, Marquis of 
 Newcastle's seat, 313. Welsh, resemblance 
 of Breton language to, 384. Wentworth, 
 Lord (1649), 201, 218 ; (1663), 292. Went- 
 worth, Lady Henrietta, mistress of Duke 
 
6i8 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 of Monmouth, 380, 485. Wessell, Mr., of 
 Bansted, M.P. for Surrey, 583. West- 
 minster Abbey, burial of Cowley in, 331. 
 Westminster Hall, shops formerly in, 27. 
 Westminster School, exercises of boys 
 going to College (1661), 276. Westmore- 
 land, Lord, oath of, 555. Weston, Eliza- 
 beth Joan, a learned lady, 338. Weston, 
 Mr., contested election for Surrey, 578. 
 Westram, estate at, 226. Wetherhom, Dr., 
 physician, 263. 
 
 Weybridge, Duke of Norfolk's house at, 401, 
 402. Whale, immense one, taken near 
 Greenwich, 257 ; another in the Thames 
 (1699), 572. Whaly, Col., 254. Wharton, 
 Lord, 350. Wharton, Sir George, a famous 
 mathematician, 316. Wharton House, 
 Nottinghamshire, 236. Wheeler, Sir Chas., 
 governor of St. Christopher's, 357 ; his 
 removal recommended, 360 ; an executor of 
 Viscountess Mordaunt, 412. Wheeler, Sir 
 George, 453, 454, 504. Wheeler, Paul, 
 musician, 246. Whistler, Dr., F.R.S.,38c), 
 400, 438. Whitbread, Thomas, Jesuit, 
 anecdote of, 406. Whitfield, Sir Ralph, 40. 
 White, Bishop, named Dr. Cosin, 214. 
 White, Bishop of Peterborough, sermon 
 of, 498 ; petitioned against liberty of con- 
 science, 515 ; sent to the Tower, 516 ; tried 
 and acquitted, 525 • on the Revolution, 
 525. White, Dr., Bishop of Norwich, his 
 funeral (1698), 571. White, Mr., priest 
 and philosopher of Paris, 211. 
 
 Whitehall, when in occupation of rebels 
 (1650), 207 ; state of 1,1656), 246 ; goods 
 pillaged from, restored, 265 ; ball and play 
 at (1671), 352 ; library at, 419, 429 ; popish 
 oratory at (1685), 469 ; new chapel ,at, 504 ; 
 Queen's apartments, 506; fire at (1696), 
 543. Whitlocke, Bulstrode, Queen's house 
 given to, by the rebels, 220. Whittal, Tom, 
 and his brother, anecdote of, 554. Whole 
 Duty of Man, Dr. Chaplin supposed to 
 be the author, 537. Wibum, Sir John, 
 governor of Bombay, 475. 'Widow,' a 
 lewd play, 283. Wight, Isle of, treaty of, 
 197. Wilbraham, Mr., 441. Wild, Dr. 
 (afterwards Bishop of Londonderry), 242, 
 245, 249, .:5o — 259, 262. Wild House, 
 Spanish ambassador's residence, 427. Wil- 
 kms, Dr., 229, 246, 247, 308 ; his mechanical 
 genius, 231 ; sermon by, and notice of 
 him, 245 ; consecrated Bp. of Chester, 
 337 ; William the Conqueror, tomb of, at 
 Caen, 56. 
 
 William IIL, his landing in England re- 
 ported, 520 ; manifesto of, 517 ; landing of, 
 523 ; his progress to London, 524 ; James IL 
 invites him to St. James's, 187 ; proceed- 
 ings thereupon, ib. ; Convention vote the 
 Crown to him and the Princess, 506 ; his 
 morose temper, 528 ; declared King, ib. ; 
 proclaimed, 529 ; his accession, 53c, 531 ; 
 coronation, ib., 532 ; his birth-day and 
 anniver*.ary, 536 ; resolves to go in person 
 to Ireland, 537, 538 ; sets out, 540 ; buys 
 Kensington, 537 ; his victory at the Boyne, 
 540 ; wounded, ib. ; embarks for Holland, 
 552 ; progress m the north, 562 ; fireworks 
 on his return, 56? ; entertained at Althorp. 
 
 ib. ; conspiracy to assassinate, 564 ; entrr 
 into London, 569 ; his death, 583. 
 
 Williams, Dr., Boyle lecturer, 558, 563. 
 Williams, Archbishop, 239. WiHiamson, 
 Sir Joseph, offices held by, 301, 331, 326, 
 33I) 340j 381, 389 ; his advancement, 378 ; 
 Pres. of Roy. Soc, 398, 438. Williamstadt, 
 brief account of, 32. Willoughby, Lord, 
 258, 285 ; Governor of Barbadoes, 365. 
 Wilmot, I^ord, 201, 217. Wilson, Mr., 
 killed in a duel, 47, 48. Wilton, seat of 
 the Earl of Pembroke, 233, 589. Wimble- 
 don, Earlof Bristol's house at, 283. Winch, 
 Sir Humphry, 301, 354, 370, 407. Win- 
 chelsea, ruins of, 221. Wmchelsea, Lord, 
 ambassador to Constantinople, 244, 265, 
 433- Winchelsea, Earl of, seat at Burleigh, 
 236. Winchester, Bishop (1685), miracle 
 related by, 485. Winchester, Marchioness 
 of (1680), 423. Winchester, 38 ; palace to 
 be built at, 449. Wind, tempestuous(i658), 
 258 ; (1703). 537- 
 
 Windsor Castle and Chapel, 228 ; Charles I. s 
 burial-place, ib. ; offering of Knights of 
 the Garter at the chapel, 348 ; about to be 
 repaired by Prince Rupert, 349 ; statue at 
 the expense of Rustat, 416, 417 ; paintings 
 in fresco, carving and improvements, 442 ; 
 church service (1685),. 484 ; painting in the 
 hall, 484 ; hunting-house, 486 ; cathedral, 
 ib. \ alluded to, 550. Windsor, Lord, 350. 
 Winnington, Sir Francis, 423. Winstanley, 
 Mr., 283; waterworks, by, 567; built the 
 Eddystone lighthouse, and perished in it, 
 567. Winter, Sir John, project of charring 
 sea-coal, 249. Winter, severity of (1658), 
 257 ; paper on the effects of the winter of 
 (1683), by Evelyn, 457. 
 
 Wirtemburgj^ Prince of (1646), 174. Witches 
 in New England, 551. Withers, an in- 
 genious shipwright, 373. Withings, Mr. 
 Justice, 452. Woldingham church and 
 parish, 397. Wolley, Rev. Dr., 217 ; at 
 tended the English Court in France, 216 
 Wolsey, Cardinal, his burial place, 235 ; 
 birth place, 245. Woman, hairy, 253 ; gi- 
 gantic, 339 ; sjngular marks on the arm, 
 347. Wood, Anthony Ji, his Athense, 445 ; 
 Wood, Sir Henry, marriage, 217 Wood- 
 stock palace, destruction of, 29B Wool- 
 wich, battery, &c., erected at, 329. Wor- 
 cester, Marquis of, 345, 400. Worcester, 
 battle of, 214. Worcester, brief notice of, 
 234. Worksop abbey, brief notice of, 236. 
 Worsley, Dr., 377 ; on the Plantations, 361. 
 
 Wotton, Dr. William (son of Re\ . Henry), 
 568 ; when a child, 408 ; sermon by, 558 ; 
 Wotton, Lord, on draining, 347 ; his house 
 at Hampstead, 390. Wotton, Surrey, man- 
 sion of the Evelyn family, 17, 18; improve- 
 ments at, 39, 220, 569 ; hospitality of, at 
 Clhristmas, 569, 570. Wotton, administra- 
 tion of Sacraments (1694), 557 ; Dr. Bohun 
 presented to the living, 581. Wray, CapC 
 (son of Sir Chris.), 176, 179, 193. 
 
 Wren, Sir Christopher, 299, 352, 353, 389. 
 398, 419, 455, 456, 571 ; his early talents, 
 230, 232 ; theatre at Oxford built by, 223 ; 
 a commissioner for repair of old St. Paul's, 
 London, 317 ; verses by, 381 ; Ashmolear* 
 
INDEX. 
 
 619 
 
 Museum built by, 4C1 ; his son, 407 ; St. 
 Paul's, monument, and fifty churches, 
 building by, 427 ; president of the Royal 
 Sociaty, 430 ; design of Chelsea College, 
 435; commissioner for Greenwich Hospital, 
 561, 566, 567. Wren, Dr., Bishop of Ely, 
 271. Wren, Matthew, son of Bishop of 
 Ely, 250, 301. Wrestling match, before 
 his Majesty (i66i), 327. Wright, Sir Na- 
 than, Lord Keeper, 578. Wright, Chief 
 Justice, 517. Wright, Michael, 296 ; 
 paintings by, 260, 288. Wriothesley, 
 Thomas, Earl of Southampton, 451. Wych, 
 Sir Cyril, president of Royal Society, 451, 
 549> 574) 726 ; Lord Justice in Ireland, 
 5j4. Wych, Lady, wife of Sir Cyril, and 
 niece of Evelyn, 549, 574, 576. Wye, Mr., 
 •■ector of Wotton, 581. 
 
 Yarborough, Sir Thomas, 445. Yachts first 
 introduced into England, 277. Yew-tree, 
 remarkably large one, 293. York, city, 
 and minster, 237. York House, Strand, 
 245. Young, Capt., capture by, 251 ; the 
 death and character of, 554. Youth, ad- 
 vice to, 599. 
 
 Zacchary, of Genoa, marvellous anecdote of 
 his shipwreck, 73. Zenno, Sign., Venetian 
 ambassador, 495. Zinnar-tree, quality of, 
 448. Zinzendorf, Count de, 442. Zitelle, 
 procession of, at Rome, 113, 142. Zuccaro, 
 paintings by, 87, 138, 149. Zulestein, 
 Monsieur, 350. ZuHchem, Monsieuf, 379, 
 275, 297. 
 
 THE END. 
 
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