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 Practical poultry breeder & feeder:or, H 
 
 3 1924 003 167 347 
 
Cornell University 
 Library 
 
 The original of tliis book is in 
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 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003167347 
 
PRACTICAL 
 POULTRY BREEDER AND FEEDER. 
 
ROSE-COMB BLACK ORPINGTON COCK 
 
FIFTH EDITION. 
 
 RE-WRITTEN AND REVISED TO DATE. 
 
 PRACTICAL 
 
 POULTRY BREEDER 
 
 AND 
 
 FEEDER: 
 
 OR, 
 
 HOW TO MAKE POULTRY PAY. 
 
 BY 
 
 TV^ILLI.i^M: COOK. 
 
 
 PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR AT 
 
 QUEEN'S HEAD YARD, 105, BOROUGH, LONDON, S.E. 
 
 AND 
 
 "THE WALDENS," ST. MARY CRAY, KENT, 
 
 (LATE OF TOWER HOUSE, ORPINGTON, KENT), 
 ALSO BY 
 
 E, W. ALLEN, AVE MARIA LANE, LONDON, E.G. 
 
 ENTERED AT STATIONERS' HALL. 
 
 ^y 
 
 From The Library of 
 
 Or. Oiney Brown Kent 
 
E 7630 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 PRINTED BY WILI,IAM CATE, 
 
 BOUVERIE STREET, E.C 
 
OPINIONS OF THE PBESS ON THE PIRST 
 AND SECOND EDITIONS, 
 
 How to make Poultry Pay (W. Cook). — This is a useful handbook for 
 persons with limited space who wish to keep a few profitable fowls, and 
 have no practical experience to guide them either in selection or manage- 
 ment. The old-fashioned notion that eggs must cost 6d. each to the 
 person who only kept half-a-dozen fowls has long since been exploded, 
 and the author of this handbook enforces the well-proved fact that no 
 household is too sinall to be incapable of furnishing scraps and refuse 
 Upon which a few fowls can be mainly.kept, thus converting worthless 
 matter into profitable delicacies. Of the book, as a literary production, 
 we would rather sajrnothing ; but of its practical value we, as old poultry- 
 farmers, can and do bear willing witness. — Bromley Telegraph'. 
 
 ■practical Poultry Breeder and Feeder; or How to make Poultry Pay 
 (by William Cook). — The idea of likening poultry unto machines for con- 
 verting waste and worthless matter into very good and profitable 
 delicacies is a happy one, and the author explains it very thoroughly. 
 With little labour and attention, fowls may be kept so as to yield a good 
 return ; but there are conditions which must be observed, and these are 
 simply and plainly laid down by the author, who is the most careful 
 instructor we have met with for a very long time. — Daily Chronicle, 
 October lo, 1882. 
 
 Practical Poultry Breeder and Feeder ; or, How to make Poultry Pa^ 
 (by William Cook. London : Journal of Horticulture office, 121, Fleet- 
 street). — This book explains in very simple language all that one needs 
 to know about fowls, and we are perfectly sure none who follow the plain 
 instructions given will faiWto keep poultry at a profit. The book hai 
 also a very complete index. — Glasgow News, November, 18, 1882. 
 
 Cook's Practical Poultry Breeder and Feeder {Journal of Horticulture). 
 — Mr. Cook says that poultry may be likened to machines for converting 
 waste and worthless things into good and profitable delicacies. Much 
 good poultry food is, no doubt, thrown into the hog-tub, or otherwise 
 wasted. How to turn many things to account may be found in Mr. Cook's 
 valuable manual, which is full of practical knowledge of all kinds o( 
 fowls and their management. Poultry breeding and keeping not only 
 may be, but it is profitable when carried but on the system recommended 
 by Mr. Cook. — Land and Water, November 4, 1882. 
 
 How to make Poultry Pay. — This is the title of a practical work on 
 poultry breeding and feeding, by Mr, William Gook, published at tb« 
 
VUl. 
 
 office of the Journal of Horticulture, 171 Fleet-street, E,C., London, It 
 is specially adapted for cottagers, or those having limited accommoda- 
 iton for keeping poultry, and the author has been successful in his 
 endeavour to impart plain and practical information, which will be of 
 service to the amateur poultry breeder, and enable him to make it a 
 profitable pursuit. The most suitable class of houses, the best system 
 of feeding, breeding, and rearing, and the diseases of poultry, are all 
 dealt with in detail; and advice is given by following which the 
 uninitiated in these matters may select the best pure breeds for crossing. 
 The best poultry for egg-producing and table purposes are indicated, the 
 object of the author being to bring out the useful and profitable qualities 
 of fowls, rather than the points requisite for carrying off prizes at exhibi- 
 tions. When it is considered that about 750 millions of eggs are annually 
 imported into this country, chiefly from France, poultry breeding becomes 
 a question of much importance, to which greater attention should be 
 paid, and those engaged in it will find themselves greatly assisted by a 
 perusal of this little work. — The North British Agriculturist, January 24, 
 1883. 
 
 Mr. Cook in his useful little book. How to make Poultry Pay, remarks 
 that the number of eggs annually imported by this country is abont 750 
 millions, worth (say) ;^2,40o,ooo. As is generally known, the majority of 
 these eggs come over from France, where they are produced by cottagers 
 and farmers, nearly all of whom keep fowls, and make them pay well, 
 Mr. Cook thinks that if our cottagers and farmers would only devote 
 themselves to a little practical study of fowls and their rearing, at least 
 half this sum of money could be kept in this country. A friend who 
 followed Mr. Cook's sensible advice, was able to increase his store of 
 eggs from 400 to nearly 800, without, at the same time, adding to the 
 number of his fowls. This exceedingly valuable little manual may be 
 obtained at the Horticultural Journal office, 171, Fleet-street. It is 
 without any question the best manual on the subject yet published,— 
 Society, February 3, 1883. 
 
 To the Editor of the Morning Post. — I have read with interest the 
 several letters on poultry that have appeared in your columns lately, and 
 being quite convinced that poultry can be made to pay, I send you my 
 results for the last two years. In 1881 from 13 hens I got 2,138 eggs, and 
 for food paid £3 15s. 2d. In 1882, from 18 hens, 3 036 eggs, and paid 
 £S 5s. for food. As I am anxious that others should make their poultry 
 pay, I may add that these good results have been obtained by strictly 
 following a little book published by Mr. W. Cook, of Orpington. I 
 enclose my card. — Yours truly, R. B. C. 
 
 How to make Poultry Pay (by William Cook) is one of the ablest 
 works on such a much more important subject than at first glance might 
 appear evident that has yet appeared. Mr. Cook points out so many 
 facts concerning the numerous errors universally made, either through 
 iporance or prejudice, about poultry, its rearing and breeding, that the 
 little manual deserves to ba widely dispersed. The number of eggs 
 annually imported into England is about 750,000,000, worth (say) 
 f 2,400,000. As is generally known, the majority of these eggs come over 
 from France, where they are produced by cottagers and small farmers, 
 
IX. 
 
 nearly all of whom keep fowls, and make them pay well. The money 
 these people receive from England might just as well, as Mr. Cook truly 
 observes, go to our cottagers and workmen, and if these really under- 
 stood how to keep fowls there is no reason why it should not. It is a 
 great mistake to think that our climate is prejudicial to poultry. On the 
 contrary, English eggs are, as a rule, much larger and better than 
 French, and our poultry more tender. The fact of the matter is, that 
 our workpeople do not know how to treat fowls economically, and are 
 not aware of the simple remedies that can be supplied in case of sickness 
 at a small cost. Poultry, like bees, require attention — above ali, judicious 
 treatment ; and yet their requirements are not great or expensive. It 
 has often been said that the English working-classes might be much 
 better off than they are if they only knew how to take advantage of 
 things, as do the French, who in reality are exceedingly poor, but at the 
 same time very frugal, and admirable in their perfect knowledge of 
 domestic economy, often knowing how to live comfortably on what their 
 English fellow-labourers throw away. Mr. Cook's book, however, has a 
 wider scope than that of teaching poor people how to keep poultry. It 
 addresses itself equally to the rich, and so practical are the hints it 
 contains that one gentleman by following them managed to increase his 
 store of eggs in one year from i,8oo to 2,300, and yet be did not add to 
 the number of his fowls. He simply punctually obeyed Mr. Cook's rules 
 for dieting his poultry, and the result was such as greatly to surprise and 
 delight him. The chapter on " Diseases, and their Means of Cure " is 
 well done, and that on food is equally practical. The variety of breeds 
 are treated with considerable elaboration, and in every way this work, 
 which is published at the office of the Journal of Horticulture, 171 , Fleet- 
 street, is such that no one who takes an interest in fowls should be without 
 a copy of it. — The Morning Post. 
 
 Poultry Breeding and Feeding.— So much has bsen written of lata 
 years in connection with the subject of this little wofi, that one feels 
 disposed to doubt whether there be anything that is new to be told. 
 Mr. Cook, however, takes up the subject in a somewhat different spirit 
 to that of most writers. He states his object in writing the book to be 
 to endeavour to give in as few words as possible such plain and practical 
 information as will enable anyone who has little or no idea of poultry, 
 and only the smallest accommodation, to keep fowls and make them 
 pay well. He disclaims any intention of dealing with fancy poultry, and 
 states, as is undoubtedly the case, that birds reared only for the show 
 pen seldom lay any large number of eggs. His idea in writing his book 
 is to describe the best fowls to keep for egg producing and table pur- 
 pose, and he therefore has written very fully regarding the properties of 
 the different crosses which .he has personally tried. It is in the portion 
 of the work lelating to crosses that most that is new and interesting is 
 to be found. The directions for management, feeding, &c., are plain 
 and practical, but are necessarily much the same as those given by the 
 best of the former writers. He dwells on the necessity tor personal 
 attention, and further points out the advantages to be gained in laying 
 qualities from the best layers only, as breeding stock. Mr. Cook has 
 apparently experimented in the matter of crossing the various breeds 
 to a greater extent than any other writer. He advocates first crosses ; and 
 here we may notice a trifling confusion in his use of the word "' pure" 
 as applied to a cross. He speak of pure cross-bred fowls, when he 
 
evidently means birds bred from pure-bred parents on each side, and 
 which are generally known as birds of a RTst cross. As a rule, the 
 author seems to have used Cochin instead of Brahma crosses ; but in 
 his introductory remarks upon crossing he says that if it is more con- 
 venient such substitutions as Minorca for Spanish, or Creve Coeur for 
 Houdan, or Brahma for Cochin, may be made. We cannot, of course, 
 do more than select for mention one or two of the many crosses in- 
 stanced :— Hamburgh-Cochins are described as very good table birds, 
 and enormous layers, averaging 240 to 250 eggs per annum. They do 
 well in confinement, or a large run. Houdan-Cochins are described as 
 very hardy and easily reared, good table birds and layers of large brown 
 eggs. Six hens of this cross averaged in the winter of their first and 
 second years 26 eggs per week, and the author considers 240 eggs per 
 annum about a fair statement of their laying powers. For table pur- 
 poses the author recommends Game Dorkings and Houdan Dorkings, 
 the latter being spoken of as good all round birds, where there is an 
 ample run. We can safely advise a careful perusal of the entire work 
 to such of our readers as take up poultry- keeping with a view to the 
 return in eggs or table fowls, and those who already do something in 
 this line will also gain much useful information from the author's narra- 
 tive of his experience. — Journal 0/ Horticulture, October 19th, 1882. 
 
 Practical Poultry Breeder ; or, How to make Poultry Pay. By -William 
 Cook. Published by the author. Tower House, Orpington, TCent— Seeing 
 that over ;£3, 000,000 a year are paid away by this country for foreign eggs 
 and poultry, it does seem extraordinary (as Mr. Cook remarks) that 
 English farmers pay so little attention to poultry. With corn and land 
 to be had cheap, surely the only thing wanting to make the business re- 
 munerative is proper management. Mr. Cook's suggestion is that poultry 
 farmers should have three crops growing at once — fruit, sheep, and 
 poultry. He admits the risk of working on a large scale, but shows con- 
 clusively how profitable fowls may be made under the owner's personal 
 supervision. The work, which is of the most practical kind, has reached 
 a third edition. — LloycCs News. 
 
 Mr. W. Cook, of Orpington, has just published a third edition of his 
 poultry-book, re-written and greatly enlarged, wherein the author has 
 recorded the results of an extensive series of cross-breeding between the 
 diflerent varieties of pure-bred poultry. Withoutforone moment admitting 
 that a cross-tred bird is better for any one purpose than a pure fowl, I 
 none the less cordially recommend this manual as a useful and practical 
 guide, by following which poultry keeping can be made to pa.j.— Bromley 
 Telegraph. 
 
 The Practical Poultry Breeder and Feeder. By W. Cook. — We have 
 received a copy of the third edition of this poultry-keeper's vade mecum, 
 which has been re-written and revised to date, and we can recommend it 
 to the careful attention of those who keep, or are about to keep, poultry. 
 Mr. Cook has added about 170 pages to the previous edition, and the book 
 now abounds with a fund of useful information requisite for the manage- 
 ment of poultry with a view to profit as well as pleasure, the information 
 being explained in a thoroughly practical and simple mapner. Com- 
 mencing with a few general remarks, Mr. Cook goes on to explain the 
 proper mode of constructing houses, runs, &e., and then gives his opinion 
 as to the best fowls to keep, Nejjt follow chapters on feeding, how to 
 
XI. 
 
 breed and what to breed from, incubation, sitting and batching, chicken 
 rearing, descriptions of the various pure-bred and cross-bred fowls, 
 poultry farming and keeping, fattening fowls, preparing birds for the 
 Ehow-pen, how to preserve eggs, &c. Ducks, geese, and turkeys are also 
 touched upon, and several pages are devoted to the treatment of the 
 various diseases poultry are subject to. This valuable book may be 
 obtained of the author, Tower House, Orpington. — Norwood Review. 
 
 Cook's Poultry Breeder and Feeder. — Books upon poultry are very 
 numerous, but we are always glad to welcome one which comes as the 
 result of practical experience, as there is sure to be something new 
 therein, or, if old, put in a new way. And in this work, a third edition of 
 which has just been issued by the author, Mr. W. Cook, of Orpington, 
 Kent, there is much to learn, especially in the direction of crosses. 
 There are upwards of 40 crosses recorded, and each one of these the 
 author says he has personally tried, and the results here given are what 
 he has himself seen. For this section of the work alone it would be a 
 decided acquisition to poultry literature, as our knowledge of the effect 
 of crossing is comparatively limited. The chapter on diseases is also a 
 very useful one, and these form tiie best sections of the work. In spite 
 of the fact that throughout the pages references are constantly made to 
 the business of the author, it is a useful handbook on poultry keeping for 
 amateurs. A hint as to how best the want of a grass run can be met may 
 be useful to some of our readers. When fowls are deprived of a grass 
 run and fed liberally, and at the same time are rather short of green food, 
 their blood gets \ery hot, especially in the spring months. It is well to 
 use a little flour of sulphur (sometimes called brimstone). There are 
 two sorts, the dark and the yellow ; the latter is the best ; onrheaped-up 
 teaspoonful for 10 fowls is tiie quantity to be used. Sulphur, unfortu- 
 nately, causes the eggs to have a strong taste. This is partly counter- 
 acted by using the same quantity of common salt as sulphur. It is not 
 well to use this medicine too early in the spring, as it opens the pores of 
 the skin too much if it is given in cold weather, or when the cold wind is 
 blowing. — Live Stock Journal, 
 
 Practical Poultry Breeder and Feeder ; or, How to Make Poultry Pay. 
 (By William Cook). — We have long thought that poultry and egg farm- 
 ing must become a great industry in this country ; but we have also the 
 conviction that it must be intelligently carried on and scientifically 
 systematised. These things Mr. Cook's admirable volume will help to 
 do. Meanwhile, it gives to the immense number of amateur and pro- 
 fessional breeders of poultry a cyclopaedia of the most reliable 
 information. It is specially offered to those who require elementary 
 instruction ; but the simple fact is that the keeping of cocks and hens 
 can never pass beyond a certain simple and measurable sphere of know- 
 ledge, having mastered the facts and data of which, the rest depends 
 upon the usual qualities and qualifications, more or less common to 
 human nature itself — aptitude, intelligence, care, diligence, persistence, 
 cleanliness, and thrift. The author does not waste space and labour 
 upon the exhibition of poultry, but everything is done to assist in the 
 increase of the useful and profitable qualities of fowls. He is himself 
 an experienced and competent teacher, and chieSy sets himself to show 
 how any one may keep fowls with profit, — Manchester Weekly Post. 
 
Xll. 
 
 BOOK TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 Forest School, Guernsey, C.I., September, iSSj. 
 Dear Sir,— I wish to add my testimony to the excellence of your 
 little hand-work, the POULTRY Breeder and Feeder, which I pur- 
 chased some time since. Although I had had a good expedience in 
 poultry-keeping, I have gathered a vast amount of inform'^ion from it. 
 All who keep poultry should purchase it. 
 
 Believe me, yours faithfully, 
 
 WELLINGTON CORBETT. 
 
 Eagley Lodge, Blackburn Road, nr, Bolton, 
 March, 1885. 
 Dear Sir, — Have received your poultry book, and am very pleased 
 with it, I consider it the best I ever read. Yours truly, 
 
 A, KOLT. 
 
 Didbrook Vicari^e, Winchcombe, Cheltenham, 
 July, 1885. 
 Dear Sir, — The chickens from the Hamburgh-Cochin eggs I pur- 
 chased from you have done splendidly, and have grown faster and 
 better than any I ever had, I have been most successful in my first 
 attempt at chicken breeeding and farming, and I have now 60 fine 
 birds. It is only doing you justice to say that all my success is entirely 
 owing to your most useful and instructive book, which I can 
 thoroughly recommend, I am, yours truly, 
 
 Rev. F, F, COLLIN. 
 
 I, St. George's Terrace, Cromwell Road, Eastney, 
 Southsea, Hants. 
 Dear Sir, — Three or four months since we purchased one of your 
 poultry books, which we have found very useful, especially when any 
 of our poultry have been ailing. We have also found your powders 
 most advantageous. Yours faithfully, J, WHITEHEAD. 
 
 The Schools, Arundel, June, 1885. 
 
 Dear Sir, — Some time since I purchased your excellent little 
 treatise on breeding and feeding poultry, and may .say I consider it 
 one of the best investments I ever made. I recommend it to all my 
 friends. Yours truly, J. GREENWOOD, 
 
 Mr. Cook, 
 
 Cross Hill, nr. Lancaster, December, 1883. 
 Dear Sir, — I have read your most valuable book on poultry — 1 
 may say over and over again. I am sure it is one of the greatest boons 
 to poultry-keepers, and should be purchased by all. 
 
 Yours truly, C. J. CLARK, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 -«-^C%$^^'9«ou. 
 
 Age at which to kill off old fowls 3 
 
 Andalusians 8i 
 
 Andalusian-CocUn 129 
 
 Appetite, loss of in sitting hens 39 
 
 Aylesbury ducks 20S 
 
 „ „ breeding from 209 
 
 „ „ description of 209 
 
 „ „ price in Ixjndon markets zo8 
 
 „ ,, price of eggs 211 
 
 Bantams 83 
 
 „ black rose-comb 84 
 
 Birds 251 
 
 Bird testimonials 25I) 252 
 
 Black Spanish 7$ 
 
 ^Blindness in fowls 173 
 
 Boiling com food, importance of 28 
 
 Bone-meal, use of 24. 
 
 Brahmas 78 
 
 Breeding — How to breed and what to breed from 33 
 
 „ introducing fresh blood in 34 
 
 Broody hens, price of 240 
 
 Brown I^eghom-Brahma 1 105 
 
 ,, Leghorn-Dorking 106 
 
 Ca}mga ducks, description of 215, 216 
 
 Chicken-rearing 41 
 
 „ „ six points in ... ... ... 48 
 
 Comb-disease.. 189 
 
 „ different forms and treatment 190, iQt 
 
 Condiment for poultry 237 
 
 Consumption 193 
 
 „ from in-breedii^ 193 
 
 „ Roup Powder for 194 
 
 „ use of tonics in ... I94 
 
XIV. 
 
 Cleanliness in poultry-keeping, importance of 
 Codiins '..." ... 
 
 Cochin-^Brahma ..^ 
 
 Cochin'Uorking 
 Cochin-Game... 
 
 Cockerels, disposal of surplus ... 
 Cold weather, treatment of poultry in ... 
 Cook's Sp'eipialilies for Poultry ..." ... 
 „ Meal and Com, price list of 
 
 „ Poultry Food testimonials 
 
 „ „ Powders 
 
 „ ,, Testimonials ;. 
 
 „ Roup Powders 
 
 „ Ointment For Scaly Legs 
 
 „ Embrocation , , ,_ 
 
 „ Roup and Condition Pills for Poultry 
 „ , „ „ Pigeons 
 
 „ German Moss Peat Litter ••■> • 
 
 ,, Insect Powder 
 
 „' Fattening Powders ... ...' ... 
 
 Coops for chickens 
 
 ,, for broody hens 
 
 „ construction of 
 
 ,, made of tea chests 
 
 „ protecting from rain 
 
 Cramp, symptoms of 
 
 ,, treatment of. 
 
 ,, in chickens 
 
 Creve Coeurs . . . ... ' ..; ..'. ,.'. 
 
 Creve Coeur-Cochin 
 
 Crop-bound poultry ... 
 
 „ operation for ... ... 
 
 Cross-bred fowls, introductory remarks ... 
 
 ,, pullets, price of ... 
 Damp ahd cold places, best breeds for 
 
 Diarrhoea, causes of 
 
 „ symptoms of 
 
 „ &om want of grit 
 
 . .,, in chickens 
 
 Diseases of poultry ... ..' 
 
 I^oikings 
 
 Dorking-Brahma 
 
 Dropsy in abdomen 
 
 „ ,i operation foi 
 
 . . „ ,, treatment for ... ,„ 
 
 Ducks, introductory remarks ... ... 
 
 „ water for 
 
 „ fattening 
 
 ,, hatching 
 
 ,1, best varieties to keep 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 3 
 
 70 
 123 
 124 
 128 
 
 147 
 26 
 
 253 
 
 2S4 
 
 2S5 
 
 261 
 
 262 
 
 26s 
 
 267 
 
 267 
 
 268 
 
 269 
 
 270 
 
 270-* 
 
 271 
 
 41 
 
 2 
 
 42 
 
 43 
 
 42 
 
 i8i 
 
 iSir 
 
 44 
 
 , . 62- 
 
 130 
 
 . 18S 
 
 . 18S 
 
 , i87-9o 
 
 240 
 
 17 
 
 ■ 194 
 
 • 194 
 
 • 194 
 r 45, 
 . I63 
 
 6l 
 
 . no 
 
 196 
 
 196 
 
 • 197 
 201 
 201 
 
 . 217 
 201 
 202 
 
XV. 
 
 Ducks, best laying breeds 
 
 ,, when to kill 
 
 „ stock, keeping 
 
 ,, eggs, disposal of 
 
 „ small house for 
 
 „ how to distinguish young from drakes 
 
 ,, treatment of young 
 
 „ milk for young 
 
 ,, first moult of 
 
 ,, worms for 
 
 Duck ponds, construction of 
 
 ,, filling and emptying ... 
 
 ,, ornamenting .'. 
 
 Dust or ashes for sitting fowls 
 
 Eggs and poultry, importation of foreign... 
 
 „ breaking to assist chickens 
 
 „ broken, removal of from sitting hens 
 
 ,, for sitting, price of 
 
 „ remarkable production of 
 
 „ _ testing for chickens 
 
 ,, to obtain in early part of cold winter 
 
 „ to preserve , 
 
 ,, value of English 
 
 Egg-eating 
 
 ,, prevention of 
 
 ,, loss of eggs from 
 
 Egg-bound fowls ... 
 
 ,, ,, treatment of 
 
 Egg-passage protruding 
 
 Egg testimonials 
 
 Excrement, removal of 
 
 Feather-eating ... 
 
 ,, cutting beaks to prevent ... 
 
 Feeding , 
 
 „ chickens 
 
 „ fowls by machine ... 
 
 „ importance of good 
 
 „ „ green food ... , ... 
 
 .. » proper grit 
 
 ,, troughs for fowls 
 
 Flesh of poultry, making white 
 
 Food, chemical analysis of 
 
 ,, proper quantity of 
 
 ,, stimulating 
 
 Fowls, best for different climates 
 
 „ „ general purposes 
 
 „ „ table purposes 
 
 „ fattening 
 
 „ flying, to prevent 
 
 ,, hardiest sorts 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 2«3 
 
 202 
 202 
 203 
 204 
 204 
 205 
 206 
 206 
 210 
 220 
 221 
 222 
 
 39 
 148 
 
 41 
 
 39 
 241 
 102, 127 
 , 40, 41 
 
 4 
 235 
 147 
 165, 182 
 183 
 ■83 
 183 
 184 
 186 
 243-250 
 166 
 192 
 
 193 
 21 
 
 45 
 117 
 21 
 23, 29 
 26, 27 
 25 
 151 
 24 
 24 
 26 
 18 
 16 
 16 
 'SI 
 14 
 
XVI. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Fowls, home-fatted, price of #•• I47 
 
 „ how to make tender 153 
 
 „ in confinement 18 
 
 ,, killing, different methods of I54 
 
 „ preparing for show pen 1=;'^ 
 
 Future, the, of poultry keeping • 838 
 
 Galvanised iron fountains and feeding troughs 2j6 
 
 Game 68 
 
 Game-Dorking 1 13 
 
 Game-Hamburgh 112 
 
 Game-Plymouth Rock 112 
 
 Gapes, cause of 179 
 
 ,, treatment of 179 
 
 ,, value of camphor in 180 
 
 ,, best preventive 180 
 
 Geese, general remarks on 229 
 
 „ profit on 229,233 
 
 ,, retail price of , 230 
 
 ,. shutting up stock at night 230 
 
 ,', Toulouse 230 
 
 „ Chinese 231 
 
 „ Embden 231 
 
 „ Toulouse-Embden 231 
 
 ,, Italian ... 231 
 
 „ secret of success in breeding 231 
 
 If egg-table of 233 
 
 „ green food for 232 
 
 „ winter food for 233 
 
 „ and waste land 232 
 
 „ fattening for table 232 
 
 Glossy plumage and Roup Powder 161 
 
 Grass runs, importance of 29 
 
 Hamburghs 63 
 
 Hamburgh-Cochin 126 
 
 Hamburgh-Dorking 125 
 
 Hamburgh-Plymouth Rock 124 
 
 Hempseed in breeding season 28 
 
 Houdans 69 
 
 Houdan-Andalusian 97 
 
 Houdan-Cochin 90 
 
 Houdan-Dorking 98 
 
 Houdan-Game 100 
 
 Houdan-Hamburgh 97 
 
 Houdan-Langshan 99 
 
 Houdan-Leghom 95 
 
 Houdan-Minorca 91 
 
 Houdan-Flymouth Rock 94 
 
 Houdan-Spanish 97 
 
 Houdsin-Wyandotte 99 
 
 Houses, cost of 7 
 
XTll. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Houses, heating artificially 159 
 
 ,, how to convert hogsheads into 7 
 
 „ how to make floor of 12 
 
 ,, lean-to 10 
 
 „ use of making with wheels 12 
 
 ,, ventilation of 8,11 
 
 In-breeding and liver disease 28 
 
 Incubation, artificial 34 
 
 „ advantages of 35 
 
 Inflammation of lungs I73> 197 
 
 Isolation of sick birds 164 
 
 Judges at poultry shows, duties of. 156 
 
 La Fleche ... 67 
 
 Langshans 77 
 
 Langshan-Brahma 121 
 
 Langshan-Flymouth Rock 121 
 
 Lecturing 239 
 
 Leghorns 58 
 
 Leghorn-Cochin 109 
 
 Leghorn-Hamburgh 109 
 
 Leghorn-Minorca ... 108 
 
 Leghorn-Plymouth Rock 107 
 
 Leg-weakness, symptoms of 17S 
 
 ,, bone-meal for 178 
 
 Lime for laying-hens 23 
 
 Liver disease 174 
 
 „ use of dandelions in 174 
 
 „ from in-breeding 17S' 
 
 „ ,, insufficiency of grit 175 
 
 „ „ use of maize 176 
 
 „ formation of fungous matter in 176 
 
 ,, remedies for ... ... ... 177 
 
 Maize, improper use of 27,28 
 
 Meal, value of for laying fowls 20 
 
 Milk, use of, for poultry 148 
 
 Minorcas ., ... 54 
 
 Minorca-Plymouth Rock 100 
 
 Minorca- Brahma 102 
 
 Minorca-Hamburgh 103 
 
 Minorca-Langshaa 104 
 
 Moonies, or pheasant fowls 64 
 
 Moulting, loss of weight in 4 
 
 Muscovy duck, description of 214,215 
 
 „ crossed with Aylesbury 215 
 
 Nests, fbrming 37 
 
 ,, materials for 37 
 
 ,, where tomake , ... 36 
 
 No-water system for chickens 238 
 
 Overfeeding 152 
 
 Peat moss for floors 164 
 
XVlll. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 P?Feklii.ducks.as layers ... , .•• 213 
 
 -; ' „ characteristics of ' ;.. ' •■• 212 
 
 r')Pens .for exhibiting ... ... "• ' •••' 'SS 
 
 uiPerches, making •.. ••■' " 
 
 . Plymouth Rocks ■■ ••• 5° 
 
 T Plymouth Rock-Brahma -. ;.. ' •■• H4 
 
 Plymouth Rock-Dorking I'S 
 
 Polish... °7 
 
 /b»//?3'i and detection of fraud ^S5 
 
 Poultiy, general remarks on ... ... •■• i 
 
 ,, fattening in Kent, Surrey and Sussex - ... r35 
 
 „ farming and keeping ... ... ' ••■ 143 
 
 „ does it pay? 143 
 
 „ stock to commence with I4S 
 
 „ and fruit growing ... 148 
 
 ,, profits on, how to make ■•■ ... ... 15° 
 
 ,, spices and medicines ... ■■• ••■ 238 
 
 Pullets in confinement ... ... ... ... ... '■•• i5 
 
 Pure-bred fowls, introductory remarks 44 
 
 ,, birds, price of 24° 
 
 Rats in poultry houses, destroying... - S 
 
 Redcaps 80 
 
 Rice for young chickens ... ... ... ••■ 46 
 
 Rouen ducks, description of ■... 214 
 
 Roup, camomile flowers for .•r. ... ... ... ... 170 
 
 ,, causes of t6y 
 
 ,, different forms of 167 
 
 ,, glycerine, use of for 169 
 
 ,, removal of scrofulous matter in 171 
 
 ,, symptoms of 167 
 
 ,, treatment of ... ■■■ ■■■ ... ••• •■■ -.. 168 
 
 Runs, digging over and changing earth of 12 
 
 ,, . height of fencing for... 14 
 
 ,, most convenient arrangement of ... ... ... ... 13 
 
 ,, size of. ... ... ... ... 12 
 
 Scotch-Greys 6$ 
 
 . Scrofula in fowls 27 
 
 Sick birds, advice on ... ' ;;.- 239 
 
 Sitting and hatching ... ... v.. - ... 36 
 
 Soft eggs ... 186 
 
 „ cause and remedy ... :.. 187, 188 
 
 Soot and coal dust in fowls' lungs ... 198 
 
 Spanish-Brahma ... ... 118 
 
 Spanish Cochin ... Ii8 
 
 Spanish-Dorking 120 
 
 Spanish-Game 117 
 
 Spanish-Leghorn •...' ;.. 119 
 
 Spring chickens, value of 17 
 
 Stock ducks, price of 24a 
 
 ■Sulphur for fowls in confinement 29 
 
XIX. 
 
 Suirey and Sussex fowls 
 
 Turkeys 
 
 „ treatment of young 
 
 ,, fresh vegetables for 
 
 ,, best birds for breeding ... 
 
 „ rearing and sheep farming 
 
 ,, loss of young 
 
 „ introduction of fresh blood into 
 
 „ weight of 
 
 ,, fattening 
 
 „ dust bath for 
 
 „ " feeding troughs for 
 
 „ shade for when fattening... 
 
 ,> best breeds of 
 
 „ Black Norfolk 
 
 „ Cambridge Bronze 
 
 >• disagreeing 
 
 ,, broody ... 
 
 „ where to make nest for ... 
 
 ,, best situations for rearing 
 
 Unfertile e[ gs, removal of 
 
 Uniform ten;perature in fowl-houses and 
 Unsuccessful competitors at shows. . . 
 Washing fowls for exhibition 
 Waste in feeding, prevention of ... 
 White Dorking- White Cochin 
 ,, Dorking-Light Brahma 
 „ Leghorn- White Dorking 
 
 Winter-layers, best 
 
 Wyandottes ... ... 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 New Breeds of Fowls —Single-comb Black Orpington 
 ,, ,, Rose-comb Black Orpington 
 
 Laying qualilies in hens 
 
 Selection of good layers 
 
 Heads of good and bad layers 
 
 Judging poultry at exhibitions 
 
 Deterioration of useful qualities in poultry 
 
PREFACE 
 
 MY object in writing the first edition of this book was 
 to give, in as few words as possible, such plain and 
 practical information as would enable anyone who had little 
 or no idea of poultry, and only the smallest accommodation, 
 to keep fowls and make them pay well, thus combining 
 pleasure and profit both in towns and country. I am 
 glad to say the information contained in my book has 
 been eagerly sought after ; in fact, so much so, that three 
 editions were sold at the end of last year. In this 
 country for many years past new-laid eggs and poultry 
 have been merely luxuries for the rich, many of our 
 working population never obtaining these delicacies; and 
 to those few who have, they have been given in times 
 of sickness by some charitable person. I am, however, 
 glad to say that this kind of thing is fast giving way, 
 and since the first publication of my little work many 
 thousands have indulged not only in eating the eggs and 
 poultry, but have derived a certain amount of enjoyment 
 from their live birds. 
 
 There are many thousands of people keep poultry now 
 who formerly thought it an impossibility to keep a few 
 birds in confinement profitably. 
 
 I have treated on pure-bred fowls so that a novice may 
 select his or her best fowls for breeding pure stock, and 
 also for crossing purposes, and the best breeds to keep 
 under different circumstances, the best table fowls and egg- 
 producers. I have tried about 50 different crosses, and 
 keep about 48 dffierent pure breds. 
 
The knowledge thus gained has enabled me to give an 
 accurate account of the various breeds, so that the readers 
 may judge for themselves which varieties will suit their 
 varied accommodation. 
 
 I have not given ■ any very elaborate description of 
 ornamental poultry houses, &c. My whole object has 
 been to give such practical information as will enable 
 anyone to build the coops, &c., themselves (if time per- 
 mit), on a cheap scale. I may add that poultry may be 
 likened unto machines for converting waste and worthless 
 things into very good and profitable delicacies, as in most 
 houses there are some scraps from the table, and 
 refuse, such as potatoes, scraps of meat, and cold vege- 
 tables, &c., that will do well for poultry, but which" in 
 most cases would be thrown away as useless. These things, 
 however, make first-rate food for fowls, when treated as 
 described in the paragraph on feeding '; and when poultry 
 are kept in this way, and with good management, I have 
 known them pay over 300 per cent, in a small way. I 
 have received thousands of letters in the past few years, 
 stating how well the writers have done by carrying' out 
 the instructions laid down in this book. Ladies and 
 gentlemen who keep their poultry for the purpose of 
 supplying their own household requirements obtain eggs 
 all through the year. I know farmers who have made 
 from ;^io to /80 in a year. One I know well made ;f 180 
 clear profit in two years. Many cottagers I have known 
 who have made from £1 to ;^i 5 a year by keeping a few 
 fowls. 
 
 The chapter on ducks has been very useful to many. 
 
 I am willing to give anyone requiring it any help in this 
 way by their enclosing a stamped and addressed envelope. 
 
 WILLIAM COOK. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 THE number of eggs annually imported by this country 
 is about eight hundred millions, in addition' to 
 thousands of tons of poultry, together worth over three 
 million pounds sterling. As is generally known, the 
 majority of these eggs come over from France, Sweden, 
 and Denmark, where they are produced by the cottagers 
 and small farmers, nearly all of whom keep fowls and make 
 them pay well, although their eggs and poultry have to 
 pass through the hands of four or five different middlemen, 
 each making a profit for himself, before they reach the 
 English consumer. The greater part of the money these 
 people receive from England might just as well go to 
 eur own farmers, cottagers, and workmen. 
 
 It may be said that in England we could not produce the 
 number of eggs the French do, owing to our variable climate, 
 but I believe the largest number of eggs comes from the 
 north-west of France, where the climate is very similar to our 
 own, and the eggs sent over in the winter are largely com- 
 posed of those laid in spring and summer and carefully 
 preserved. There are also large numbers of eggs and fowls 
 exported from Ireland, where the climate is much damper 
 than in England. Another point in favour of the home 
 producer is that foreign eggs are generally smaller than 
 
XXIV. 
 
 English, and they always fetch less money, as the average 
 value all the year round of each egg, when first imported 
 into this country, is under three farthings, and, therefore, 
 the actual producer cannot receive more than a halfpenny, 
 if so much, when he sells first of all. 
 
 The workman who lives in or near a town may say that 
 It is all very well for cottagers, who have commons and 
 lanes for their fowls to range over, where they pick up half 
 their living, to keep poultry, but that he would have to 
 keep his birds in confinement and provide every scrap of 
 food. Against this, however, he must bear in mind that 
 eggs in the country sell for about half the price they would 
 fefch in the town, and therefore the town resident has just 
 as good an opportunity, from a pecuniary point of view, 
 as the country cottager ; in fact, I may say far better, for, 
 as a rule, six fowls penned up in a back yard in a town will 
 lay more eggs than ten birds in the country where they 
 have several acres to roam over. 
 
 Another reason given by many persons for not keeping 
 fowls is that it is stated in certain books that they must not 
 keep more than so many fowls in one house, or rear a brood 
 of chickens on a piece of ground less than such and such a 
 size, and that they must heat their houses in winter to 
 obtain eggs. These rules, with the exception of artificially 
 heating the houses, are all very well if they can be carried 
 out, but for cottagers, &c., they are impossible, and, as I 
 shall show, they are not necessary, as I have frequentl) 
 found that workmen and others with very small accommo- 
 dation for their birds produce more eggs in winter than 
 many gentlemen who keep six times the number. The 
 reason for this is that the cottagers' fowls are well looked 
 after and fed on warm soft food, while the gentleman's are 
 often fed anyhow, and with hard corn only. 
 
 From the preceding remarks it will be seen that there ii 
 
XXV. 
 
 no reason why the eggs should not be produced in this 
 country instead of paying France and other countries for 
 them, and the object of this work is to show how those 
 with only the smallest and roughest accommodation can do 
 well with fowls and make them pay. 
 
 I do not write this book without experience, having kept 
 fowls for many years, which have given a good profit, and 
 I also know of many instances where cottagers with only a 
 very small piece of ground have kept fowls and made them 
 pay well (in many cases having more than paid their rent). 
 In addition to the profit derived from poultry keeping, 
 there is a large amount of pleasure obtained in looking after 
 md watching the birds, and this probably attracts far more 
 people than the idea of making profit. 
 
 There are many people who, when they first have the 
 care of poultry, think it a great trouble and nuisance to 
 have anything to do with them ; but these very same per- 
 sons have frequently said before they had the care of them 
 long what a pleasure they were. I have known people in 
 all stations of Hfe watch and tend poultry for hours ; and 
 what is more interesting to young people in their leisure 
 time than the care of poultry? When a hen becomes 
 broody, with what care and attention they place the eggs 
 under her, and watch and tend her for three weeks ! and 
 then, when the chicks appear, with what joy are they greeted, 
 and how carefully attended, the young owners not denying 
 them "anything they fancy will tend to their comfort ! I also 
 think that nothing gives parents more pleasure than seeing 
 their children interested in young quadrupeds or birds ; as, if 
 they are naturally inclined to be cruel, by giving them, say 
 a fowl or other animal to call their own, it not only often 
 cures them of this tendency, but frequently leads to acts of 
 generosity. ^ 
 
 In addition to this, who, either rich or poor, has not found 
 
XXVI. 
 
 it a great boon to have new-laid eggs and poultry in time 
 of sickness ? and is there anything more nutritious and nice 
 for a working man after a hard day's toil than one or two 
 new-laid eggs, which, were they not of his own producing, 
 would be quite out of reach, as new-laid eggs are far too 
 expensive a luxury for working men, and if they try ordi- 
 nary shop eggs they often have the utter disappointment of 
 finding them quite uneatable after breaking the shells. 
 
 Those who start poultry-keeping must not be discouraged 
 if they do not get on so well as they could wish for the first 
 year or so ; but there is nothing that pays so well in the 
 yra.y of live stock for care and attention. There may be 
 one or two birds die first of all ; but losses will come in 
 other things as well as poultry, and if the remaining birds 
 are treated properly they will soon pay for the loss of those 
 that die. 
 
 In a few instances I have known poultry clear from 15 s. 
 to ;^i each bird where only a few have been kept, say from 
 six to thirteen hens, and where from 25 to 40 have been 
 kept they have brought in from ;^9 to ^20 clear profit in 
 a year. I. have known many who could not make the fowls 
 pay for the food they ate before my little book was 
 published ; in fact, some had given up altogether, thinking 
 it impossible to make them pay, and have re-commenced, 
 gaining not only a handsome profit, but also much of 
 pleasure. It is gratifying lo one when a little profit is made 
 out of foVfls, but where pleasure and profit are combined 
 it is more so, especially for parents who have to struggle 
 hard through this life to maintain a large family. Fowls 
 are then a great boon to them, being quite a luxury, for they 
 are not only helping themselves, but teaching their children 
 the art of keeping a few fowls profitably ; nor does it end 
 here, for there is often a little house or coop to be built, or 
 a small run to be put up. Then the paint or tar brush 
 
must come into use for the outside, and the whitewash 
 brush for the inside. Boys usually follow the example of 
 their fathers, and when brought up thus it enables them to 
 be very useful in their after-life, whatever station they may 
 be placed in. What I learned in these little things as a 
 boy has been very useful to me. Since the publication of 
 my little book I have done all I can to encourage poultry- 
 keeping in towns. I have given information twice a week 
 at my London office (Mondays and Saturdays), and have 
 doctored the sick birds which have been brought to me 
 gratis. They have been brought from 20 miles round. In 
 fact, sometimes I have not been able to leave my office till 
 after 10 o'clock at night. Boys and girls bring their 
 precious pets for me to see and relieve them from pain, 
 which I am only too pleased to do. Some bring whole 
 pens of birds to know which are the best to breed from. I 
 have also answered all questions connected with the 
 management of poultry — gratis — from anywhere in the 
 world on receipt of a stamped and addressed envelope.- 
 Sometimes these have been more than I could answer in 
 one day (from 20 to 80 in a day). If I can help anyone 
 in poultry-keeping I am only too pleased to do so, as meat 
 is so dear, and com cheap ; and it is always convenient to 
 have new laid eggs, as they are much better for children 
 than meat. When you are not feeling well and cannot eat 
 meat, a new-laid egg is very nutritious, and as you are 
 getting better who could say " No " to a nice roast or boiled 
 fowl ; and there is always something sweet about anything 
 that is produced at home. 
 
 The convenience of always having them is worth a great ■ 
 deal to many people. I do not know five out of every 
 hundred who have gone by my book these past four years 
 that have not had eggs all the year round. I have had 
 hundreds of letters informing me of this fact. 
 
I have introduced in this edition of my book a chapter 
 on Laying Qualities in Fowls and how to tell the points of 
 a good layer from a bad one. This is, I think, a new 
 subject, as I am not aware it has ever been attempted 
 before. Having made a study of this subject for many 
 years, I am able to pick out the best layers as soon as I 
 enter a poultry yard, and it has enabled me to breed a 
 large stock of good laying fowls of all breeds. This has 
 been a boon to many hundreds of people, as I have given 
 lectures to large audiences on this subject of laying qualities, 
 demonstrating from live birds brought to the lectures the 
 different points good layers possess, as compared with bad 
 ones. I cannot reach the majority of poultry-keepers by 
 lectures, so I have had the heads of some good and some 
 bad-laying hens photographed, and from these illustrations 
 I think my readers will be able to pick out the best layers 
 they may have in their pens, which will enable them to 
 discard the bad layers and only keep profitable birds. I 
 have already brought out two varieties of fowls, viz : the 
 Orpington and the Rose-Comb Orpington, and another 
 variety which will be called the White Rose- Comb Orping- 
 ton will be out in the autumn of 1889, which I think will 
 find much favour among a certain class of people. 
 
 I am pleased to say that the two varieties of Orpingtons 
 already out have been most favourably taken up by 
 breeders throughout the world ; and there is not a doubt 
 that the Orpington fowls are the best all round birds that 
 England can boast of at the present time. 
 
 I am frequently asked which is the best cramming 
 machine for fowls. Undoubtedly, that manufactured by 
 Mr. JohiJ Every, Phoenix Iron Works, Lewes, Sussex, is 
 the best. 
 
 "The Waldens," 
 Si. Mary Cray, Kent iLate Tower House, Orpington). 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 BEFORE proceeding to describe the different branches 
 of poultry-keeping in detail, I think it well to have a 
 short chapter with a few general remarks. 
 
 In the first place, it is absolutely necessary to keep only 
 young birds if a large number of eggs are required, as only 
 a limited number of fowls lay so well in their second season, 
 and I have found the best plan in this respect is to get rid 
 of all my birds in the autumn except the very best layers, 
 which may be kept for another season ; however, I do not 
 recommend Brahmas or Cochins being k:pt unless they arc 
 extraordinarily good layers, and shed their feathers early in 
 the autumn, as they rarely if ever do well in their second 
 season, being so liable to make fat instead of eggs. They 
 are also a great nuisance as regards sitting, as they are 
 very frequently broody in the summer. The following 
 treatment, however, will generally cure them, and is by far 
 the best way to treat broody hens when it is requisite to 
 cure them of their desire to sit. 
 
Procure a box about 3 feet wide and 20 inches deep, in 
 which three to six fowls may be kept at one time, and place 
 bars across the front about 2 inches apart, so that the sitting 
 hens cannot get out. The box must have no bottom, but 
 bars from 2 to 3 inches apart should be nailed across, and 
 when the box is stood, say upon four bricks, it will be from 
 2 to 3 inches off the ground. It will therefore be quite 
 impossible for the hens to sit down in it except on the 
 staves, and this practically causes them to be on the perch 
 day and night. An ordinary coop with bars across the 
 bottom will answer the purpose. 
 
 coop FOR BROODY HENS. 
 
 The box or coop should be put in as light a place as 
 possible in the run with the other fowls, and the water fof 
 the whole yard should be placed in front, so that the others 
 must come in sight of the sitting hens to drink. They 
 should also be fed all round the box, taking care that the 
 sitting hens get as much as they can eat, as when fed with 
 other fowls they generally eat more ravenously. By these 
 means a broody hen will soon be cured, be in a healthy 
 condition, and quickly come on to lay again. I have had 
 
Cochin and Brahma hens come on to sit, have treated 
 them in this way, let them out in three days, and before the 
 week was up they have commenced laying ; in fact, I never 
 found this treatment fail with any fowls. 
 
 Some poultry writers tell us to shut the hens up in a darl 
 place and give no food for a day or two, but by so doing the 
 birds are weakened, and the poultry-keeper loses from five 
 to nine eggs each time they come on to sit, which amounts 
 to something considerable in the course of the year. 
 
 It is very essential in poultry-keeping that fowls be kept 
 perfectly clean, as they seldom do well when not properly 
 attended to in this respect, although some hardy breeds 
 
 BOTTOM OF COOP, 
 
 will stand a good deal of inattention. This subject is one 
 of the most important for those who have only small accom- 
 modation, as when fowls are cramped they require great 
 attention in this respect, but where they have plenty of room 
 they will sometimes thrive in a state of filth, although not so 
 well as if properly attended to. 
 
 A very important point in poultry-keeping is when to kill 
 or dispose of the hens that are not required for the following 
 season. To be in prime condition for the table, they should 
 be killed just when commencing to shed their feathers, 
 
 B 2 
 
when they will eat tender and juicy, but if not killed just in 
 time they are unfit for at least another six weeks or two 
 months. 
 
 A fowl which weighs 61bs. before moulting, and moults 
 late in the season often loses one-and-a-half pounds by 
 the time it gets its new feathers. It is a great item where 
 many fowls are kept. 
 
 Feeding, of course, has a great effect on the profits of the 
 poultry-yard, and fowls are more often mismanaged in this 
 respect than in any other, many people only using hard 
 corn, and of this they give their birds as much as they can 
 possibly eat, and to spare, whereas the proper mode of feed- 
 ing is to give one meal of warm, soft food in the morning, 
 and only to give the fowls at any time as much as they will 
 eat eagerly. 
 
 To obtain eggs in the early part of a cold winter where 
 the situation is cold, damp, or exposed, it is necessary to 
 have young Brahmas, Cochins, Plymouth Rocks or Lang- 
 shans, or crosses from these breeds, and if these are wanted 
 to commence laying early in the season, they should be 
 hatched in February or early March, as if the birds are 
 properly looked after and fed well, they will generally come 
 on to lay when about five or seven months old. 
 
 Pullets may be hatched all the year round, from January 
 to August, but the late chickens must not be crowded with 
 the other birds ; if so, they will not thrive. 
 
 Other breeds besides Cochins, Brahmas, Plymouth Rocks 
 or Langshans will often lay through the winter, but they 
 cannot be relied upon for certain, especially if the weather 
 be very severe, and the best way to obtain a constant supply 
 of eggs in cold winters is to have young birds of the feather- 
 legged tribes, or crosses with these breeds. 
 
 Poultry-keepers are often troubled with rats, that carry 
 away the eggs and young chickens. These nuisances are 
 
very often attracted by food being left about, and if this is 
 the case, the first thing to be done is to see that the fowls 
 have only sufficient food for their immediate wants, and do 
 not leave any about. Traps may sometimes be used with 
 good results ; but the rats soon become too knowing, and 
 will not be caught One remedy I have found effective is 
 to place tar in their runs and down their holes, but some- 
 times this does not answer. Poison may be used, but there 
 is the risk of the fowls getting hold of it. One of the best 
 remedies is to place small mesh wire netting along the sides 
 of the houses up to the height of a foot, and continue it 
 below the ground about eighteen inches. When this is 
 done, it is quite impossible for the rats to get through, and 
 when once properly done will always be found a certain 
 cure. 
 
 In the following remarks, where I describe the different 
 branches of poultry-keeping, it may be thought that I have 
 gone needlessly into small details, and that it is not neces- 
 sary to follow all the instructions given. This is quite true, 
 as it is not absolutely necessary to do all that is described ; 
 but if the attentions mentioned are given the fowls will pay 
 well for them. 
 
HOUSES & RUNS. 
 
 HOUSES. 
 
 THE house is a great consideration for poor people, as 
 they do not consider they can afford £2 or ;^3 for 
 this purpose, and therefore they do not keep fowls on account 
 of the cost There is, however, no need to go to this 
 expense when starting poultry-keeping, although it is money 
 weU spent where it can be spared, and the fowls will soon 
 pay for the trouble and care expended on them. 
 
 Where only a few fowls are kept, say half-a-dozen, they 
 may be easily housed in a large box or hogshead bought 
 from the grocer's for a few shillings, as very comfortable 
 homes may be made out of these articles when treated as 
 hereafter described. 
 
 If a hogshead is used, it should be laid on the ground 
 longways, and fastened at the sides so that it cannot roll. 
 A few inches of earth or road-scrapings should be put in the 
 bottom and beaten down hard to make a level floor. A 
 small square should be cut out of the farther end, close up 
 
8 
 
 to the top, and a piece of glass about 6 by 8 inches put in, 
 so arranged that it may be opened wide when the weather 
 is not too cold. Ventilation must also be provided by boring 
 a few holes in the front and back of the hogshead ; these 
 holes should be made as close to the roof as possible, so 
 that the fowls will not feel a draught. 
 
 Two perches should be put up crossways, and so made 
 that they may be easily moved ; and a nest must, of course, 
 be provided, and so arranged that they may be easily got at. 
 
 HOGSHEAD HOUSE. 
 
 the best place for this purpose being at the end, just under 
 the movable window. 
 
 The front should be boarded a little at each side, the 
 door being in the middle, and a hole should be cut in the 
 bottom of the door to allow the fowls to pass in and out, 
 A slide should be made to fit the^ hole, so that it may be 
 closed in very cold weather. 
 
 The top of the hogshead must be covered with a piece of 
 felt or canvas, and well tarred to keep the wet out, and if 
 the cracks are very wide, some brown paper should be pasted 
 
inside ovci them, and this may be torn away in the warm 
 weather. It is well to give the paper "a good coating of 
 limewash, to keep insects from sheltering underneath it. A 
 large box may be used in the same way as the hogshead, 
 but the roof must be made slanting, or the box should be 
 tilted up, to allow the water to run off. 
 
 If a large box or hogshead cannot be obtained, a few egg- 
 boxes may be bought cheap, and a small house built out of 
 them, if possible, against a fence or in a corner. The wo<»d 
 
 
 FRONT OF HOGSHEAD HOUSE. 
 
 is rather thin, but if covered with brown paper, as in the 
 hogshead, they will do very well, and a nice warm house 
 may be made out of them. 
 
 For eight to twelve fowls, a house 5 feet high and 5 feet 
 square will be quite suflScient, and I may mention that I 
 have kept fowls in perfect health and full lay all through the 
 winter in these little houses. 
 
 If a larger or more substantial house is required, it may 
 be made with feather-edged boards for the sides, &c., and 
 the roof may be either thatched or made with ordinary half- 
 
inch planking, covered with felt and well tarred every year. 
 The feather-edged boards are not so good for the roof, as 
 they do not keep the wet out without being covered with 
 felt, and when felt has to be used, it is better to put it on 
 even boards. Quartering cut down the middle is quite 
 
 a: 
 
 
 
 LEAN-TO HOUSE. 
 
 Showing Wire Netting above and below ground for keeping 
 out Rats, &c. 
 
 Strong enough for the framework. The sides must be tarred 
 or painted to preserve the wood. 
 
 These houses may be either arranged so that they can be 
 carried from place to place, or they can be made to lean 
 against a wall. When in a fixed position, the bottom should 
 be covered with road-scrapings, or any kind of soil mixed 
 with water and well trodden down, as when the floor is quite 
 
[I 
 
 hard it may be easily swept and occasionally peeled off with 
 a spade, so there is no stale dirt left on. 
 
 The perches should be made to fit in a socket, and must 
 be placed out of the draught. For heavy birds they should 
 be about a foot from the ground, and should be made quite 
 flat, about two inches wide, the edges being bevelled off. 
 For smaller birds they may be placed a little higher, and 
 need not be so large, as small birds like a round perch 
 best. The bark must be stripped off, or it will harbour 
 insects. 
 
 The nests may be made in any convenient position, but 
 they are best on the ground in a secluded spot. 
 
 Ventilation must always be provided in all poultry houses 
 by an opening of some sort at the topmost point of each 
 end of the building. The ventilators must be so made that 
 a draught will pass through over the birds' heads. An 
 opening must be made for the birds to pass in and out, and 
 this should be fitted with a slide to be closed in cold 
 weather. Windows must also be put in where required, and 
 these should be made so that they may be opened or shut 
 according to the state of the weather, as fowls like light. 
 
 In building houses it is well to use screws as much as 
 possible, so that they may be easily taken to pieces ; and if 
 the sides can be made to fit on in one piece it is all the 
 better, as it is more convenient for moving, and, if required, 
 they may be fixed on with a hinge, so that in wet weather 
 additional shelter may be provided by propping up the side 
 that gives most protection. There are also many houses 
 made complete by well-known manufacturers that can be 
 obtained at a moderate price if desired, as advertised in 
 this book. 
 
 People who live in the country will generally have a shed 
 or outhouse that may be used for the poultry ; but those in 
 towns will probably have to build their own houses, and i{ 
 
the instructions here given are followed, they will have no 
 difficulty in providing suitable accommodation for their 
 birds at a moderate price. Where two or three small pens 
 are kept for breeding purposes, it is well to make one long 
 house, and divide it inside, leaving a small passage for the 
 attendant to reach each partition. 
 
 Small houses may be made with wooden bottoms and 
 fixed on wheels, and these are very useful, especially to 
 farmers, as they can move their poultry from place to place, 
 and in the autumn the young chickens may be turned out 
 on the stubbles in these houses, where in most cases they 
 do remarkably well, as it is entirely fresh ground. 
 
 RTJNS. 
 
 Although Poultry may be easily kept, and will thrive well 
 in small runs if kept clean, the more room they have the 
 better for them ; but as many poultry-keepers are cramped 
 for space, I describe the best way to keep them in close 
 confinement. 
 
 Half-a-dozen fowls may be kept in a run from three to 
 four yards square, but in this case they must be most care- 
 fully cleaned out, that is to say, the earth in the run should 
 be constantly changed, and this is best done after we* 
 weather, as the top scum of the yard may then be removed 
 in cakes. When clean, fresh earth should be substituted. 
 The larger the run is, the less attention it will require ip 
 this respect, and the only rule I can lay down for changing 
 the earth is, that it should be done in wet weather when the 
 run gets dirty. The owner is best able to judge when it 
 requires attention in this matter. The run should also be 
 dug over once a week, or a part of it, as the loose earth 
 occupies the fowls in scratching. If a part of the run can 
 be covered in, so that it does not cause a draught, it is 
 much better for the fowls, to provide shade in summer and 
 
13 
 
 to keep the wet ofT in the winter ; and it is also well to 
 provide shelter from the cold winds. This may be done by 
 boarding up part of the side of the run, or by thatching 
 hurdles with straw, and placing them against the wire out- 
 side the runs. 
 
 Then under the covered-in part place dry earth or a little 
 loose straw, scattering a few grains of corn under it. This 
 also gives them employment, and circulates their blood. 
 
 It is well to put a perch in the covered-in run (length 
 according to the number of birds), as they are very fond 
 of sitting on a perch to clean their plumage. This often 
 prevents them from plucking their feathers, as they do not 
 then stand about in heaps. Where it is not convenient to 
 have a covered-in run, place a perch in the open run. 
 
 Where two or three pens of birds are kept, the best way 
 is to keep each lot in an enclosed run, and allow them out 
 separately every day for two or three hours on a larger piece 
 of ground. Each pen will then have the advantage of a 
 good run every day, and after a week or so there will be no 
 trouble in driving them in and out, as they will be quite 
 Used to it and know their way. 
 
 To give an example, I may say that should one have an 
 acre of ground, and want to utilise it to the best advantage 
 for poultry, divide it across the centre, and place the houses 
 and runs in the warmest part, and have a slide to each pen 
 into the spare half acre, so that each pen of fowls has the 
 advantage of a good run every day. The runs must be 
 made according to the number of birds required to be 
 kept in them, from seven to thirty, but if for breeding 
 purposes not more than fifteen. The runs ought to be 
 swept well in wet weather, or the top crust peels off. 
 
 This system is the best way of keeping poultry when 
 pure, or in pens for breeding, and it is also the most 
 economical as regards the ground, for to provide a perpetual 
 
t4 
 
 grass run for each of these pens by other means would 
 require about three times the quantity of ground. Fowls for 
 general purposes may also be treated in the same manner. 
 
 Brahmas and Cochins may be kept in a run with the 
 wire about 3 or 4 feet high, but for the other breeds it 
 should be from 6 feet high, and often this is not high 
 enough for some, in which case some wire netting must be 
 put on the top of the fence or wall, so that it slants inwards 
 over the run, and thus checks the birds and knocks them 
 back when they fly against it. If this is is not sufficient, 
 the run should be covered right in, or one of the fowl's 
 wings must be cut. 
 
 One is quite sufficient. The flight feathers should be 
 cut just underneath the first row of small feathers, leaving 
 about two of the long feathers at the end. When done in 
 this way the appearance of the bird is not spoilt. 
 
 The more comfortable the run can be made the better 
 the fowls will like it, and the increased expense will be 
 compensated for by the extra number of eggs obtained in 
 the winter. 
 
 Plenty of ashes or dust must be kept in a dry spot for the 
 fowls to dust themselves in, and these should be put in the 
 sun if possible. It is also well to have one part of the run 
 higher than the other, to allow the water to drain off. 
 
 Where two or three pens of birds are kept in runs joining 
 one another, the first three feet of the side where the pens 
 join should be boarded up, or else very small mesh netting 
 must be used, as otherwise the cocks will be sure to fight 
 and damage themselves. 
 
 I manufacture cheap houses and runs. For particulars 
 refer to my advertisement. 
 
WHAT ARE THE BEST FOWLS 
 TO KEEP? 
 
 THIS question is one of the most difficult to answer, as 
 diiiferent strains of the same breed of fowls vary very 
 much in their egg-producing properties ; and I have often 
 known one bird lay well, while another of the same breed 
 was anything but a good layer. A great deal also depends 
 upon the place and circumstances under which the fowls 
 are to be kept. 
 
 The following crosses, viz. : — Plymouth Rock-Brahma, 
 Plymouth Rock-Langshan, Plymouth Rock-Cochin, and 
 Plymouth Rock-black-breasted red Game make good 
 winter layers where the situation is cold, damp, and 
 exposed to the north-east winds. They also produce very 
 fine brown eggs, and make excellent sitters, and can be 
 depended upon for that purpose. They are also the best of 
 mothers, and can cover their chickens well from the cold 
 east winds. They are good hens to send on a journey 
 when broody, as the sight of the eggs usually brings them 
 
i6 
 
 to the nest at once, and they forget they are in a strange 
 place. They are valuable, as they can be depended upon. 
 I may mention that these crosses may be kept either in 
 confined runs or ''n an open space, and will not disappoint 
 their owners. They are like young turkeys on the table- 
 one will serve a good family. When early chickens are 
 required these crosses are the best to keep, as they come 
 broody early in the season, and can be depended on, as 
 they have so much heat in themselves. They can be set 
 on goose, turkey, or duck eggs. For general purposes I 
 find nothing better than the Houdan cock, mated with P. 
 Rock, Langshan, Brahma, or Cochin hens. When the 
 pullets are hatched from a good laying strain, one is equal 
 to the other. They come so much alike it is hard to dis- 
 tinguish them from each other when , side by side. The 
 results for twelve months will not vary ten eggs. Of the 
 four, the Plymouth Rock cross are the best table fowls. 
 They have more breast-meat, and are usually free from 
 feathers on the legs. The laying results are just as good 
 when a Minorca cock is used with the four mentioned 
 breeds, but the cockerels are not quite so good table fowls, 
 as they are not so full in the breast, but they are excellent in 
 flavour, very white and juicy. As a rule the eggs are a 
 little larger than in the Houdan cross. The pullets from 
 all of these crosses will stand confinement well, or do well 
 if they have an open range. They cannot easily be put 
 out of their place. Most of them lay a tinted egg, some 
 quite brown ;' they are large and saleable anywhere. Those 
 who have tried these crosses have not been disappointed, 
 as they are such good winter layers. Some object to keep- 
 ing birds that come broody. In this case I recommend a 
 Houdan-Minorca or Houdan-Leghorn cross as the best to 
 keep, as these are excellent layers of white-shelled eggs. 
 They stand confinement well, and if sheltered a little from 
 
17 
 
 the cold winds eggs will be found in the nest all the year 
 round. The golden spangled Hamburgh-Cochin are very 
 handsome birds, more so than any other cross. They are 
 extraordinary layers, both winter and summer. The eggs 
 are a lair size ; most of them are brown or tinted. They 
 make fair table birds, rather small, but of excellent flavour. 
 They will stand confinement, or search well for their living 
 when they have their liberty. It is rather difficult to get 
 the eggs fertile. They are the choicest cross I know. The 
 Game-Dorking cross are excellent for the table, and very 
 fair winter layers. They come broody very often during 
 the spring and summer. I prefer Houdan-Dorking, if eggs 
 are required as well as good table fowls, as they are much 
 better layers. The Plymouth Rock-Dorking cross will soon 
 stand at the top of the list as table fowls. They are large, 
 of fine flavour, with a good white breast. They make a 
 better price in the market than any other fowl. Early 
 spring chickens fetched i6s. a pair in the London market 
 in 1884, firsthand. They put the Game-Dorking out- of 
 sight for table birds. The Game-P. Rocks are very good, 
 and I prefer them to the Game-Cochin, as they make so 
 much better table fowls, although not better layers ; they 
 make good sitters and mothers, and may be trusted with 
 valuable eggs. They are very strong in the wing to cover 
 their chickens from the cold winds. This cross is very 
 good for gamekeepers. If one has a fancy for pure bred 
 birds, and the place is cold and damp, I recommend Ply- 
 mouth Rocks as the best, having no feathers on their legs 
 to hold the wet and damp, and they are more active than 
 the Cochins and Brahmas. The Langshans are also good 
 for this purpose, although I give the Rocks the preference 
 where the place is very cold and damp ; they do not show 
 the dirt and smoke as many other breeds do, they stand 
 confinement well, and lay a brown egg. The Wyandottes 
 
 c 
 
i8 
 
 stand confinement fairly well, and are good layers of brown 
 eggs, but they do not breed true to colour. As a non-sitting 
 breed Minorcas are excellent. I prefer them to the 
 Hondan, as they are not quite so subject to colds when in 
 the pure state. They stand confinement well, and will 
 lay all through the winter months if sheltered from the 
 cold winds. This breed is becoming very popular, and 
 will be more so when better known. They lay a fine white 
 Egg ; the chickens are hardy and grow fast. Leghorns are 
 also excellent fowls as non-sitters ; they are remarkably 
 hardy, and will lay more eggs in the cold winter months 
 than the Minorcas. They are the hardiest fowls I know, 
 especially the white variety ; the chickens thrive anywhere. 
 The eggs are not so large as the Minorcas', and neither do 
 they make such a good table fowl. In confinement they 
 stand the cold much better than the Minorcas. The 
 Andalusians are excellent layers of large white eggs. They 
 stand confinement well, and if they have shelter they lay 
 during the winter months. The Dorkings are not so good 
 to keep in confinement when in their pure state. I do not 
 recommend the Hamburghs for confinement, as the Leg- 
 horns are so much hardier and lay more eggs during the 
 winter months. The black variety is rather the hardiest, 
 the golden and silver-spangled next; the pencilled 
 varieties ought not to be reared in confinement. Game 
 fowls ought not to be kept in confinement if wanted for 
 profit only. Every breed of fowls will lay in the winter, 
 more or less, if bred from a good laying strain and treated 
 properly. It is not so much a certain breed being good 
 layers, as a matter of being bred from good laying strains. 
 I have had two birds of the same breed running together, 
 and treated in the same way, one having laid over 260 and 
 the other only 90 eggs in twelve months. 
 
 For tropical climates, the non-sitting tribes, viz., Ham- 
 
'9 
 
 burghs, Houdans, Spanish, Minorcas, Leghorns, &c., and 
 their crosses are best; while lor the colder and more 
 changeable countries, the hardy, feather-legged tribes, such 
 as Cochins, Brahmas, Langshans, Plymouth Rocks, &c., 
 and their crosses are best ; and for „xtremely cold climates 
 I recommend the Game and Cochin and Game and Rock 
 crosses. 
 
l^^Hkr^M^^ ^^^ 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 FEEDING. 
 
 ALTHOUGH much good information has been given 
 on the subject of feeding poultry in the last few 
 years, they are often mismanaged in this respect, the 
 reason being that seven poultry-keepers out of ten consider 
 their birds are fed properly if some hard corn be given 
 them two or three times a day. Another great mistake is 
 made by many people, who think that any quality of food 
 does for poultry, and therefore they give their birds any 
 poor stuff they come across, and this is more especially the 
 case with farmers, who only feed with poor thin corn that 
 will do for nothing else. There are also many who never 
 give their laying fowls meal, as they consider it would only 
 be a waste of valuable food ; but this is also a great mistake, 
 as fowls fed once a day on meal will produce at least 30 to 
 40 more eggs per bird in the year than others in exactly 
 similar conditions that are only fed on hard grain. The 
 
reason of this is, that the hard corn takes a certain time to 
 get soaked in the crop and ground in the gizzard, while soft 
 meal passes into the system immediately, and gives the 
 fowl nourishment at once, thereby enabling it to consume 
 (or turn into flesh and eggs) more food than if fed only on 
 hard corn. It will, therefore, be seen by the above remarks 
 that it pays best to give soft meal once a day, and this is 
 best.given in the morning, and may consist of nearly any 
 kind of meal — such as barley-meal, oat-meal, buckwheat- 
 meal, &c., mixed with fine and coarse pollard, middlings, 
 or " sharps." The quantity of pollard used depends greatly 
 upon the other meal, but it will generally be found that one 
 part of barley-meal with one part of fine, and one of coarse 
 pollard make a very good mixture ; but the best way is 
 always to have sufficient coarse pollard or "sharp," so that 
 the meal mixes easily, that is, without sticking about in soft, 
 doughy lumps. Pea-meal may be used occasionally with 
 pollard for a change, and sweepings from a mill also make 
 very good food, as they contain a large quantity of flour. 
 The full description of my Poultry Foods will be found in 
 the end of this book — advertisement pages. The meal should 
 always be mixed with hot water, or hot skim milk is better 
 if it can be had, and given warm, especially in the winter 
 months. Care should be taken not to mix it too damp, as 
 it is not at all good for the fowls when it is sticky and 
 clings to their beaks. Any scraps of fat or grease can be 
 mixed with the meal, and in the winter, if there are not 
 many scraps, it is desirable to buy some liver, lights, 
 paunches, or tripe (the sheep's paunches can be bought for 
 2d., and the tripe for is. each, the latter weighing from 
 9 to 1 8 lbs. each), and give to the fowls the last thing before 
 they go to roost, as they will then eat ravenously of the 
 meat. If, however, it is given with or before their corn 
 they will eat the meat and refuse their other food. The 
 
23 
 
 lights, &c, must, of course, be boiled, and the water in 
 which they are boiled should be used to mix the meal. It 
 is more convenient to use granulated meat in the soft food, 
 as that does not require boiling. It is best to pour boiling 
 water over it, and then mix it with the meal while it is hot. 
 Any vegetable refuse, such as small potatoes and cabbage, or 
 pieces of fat meat may also be used, as when these are 
 mixed up with good meal, they make a first-rate food. 
 Turnips, mangold wurtzel, in fact nearly all vegetables, may 
 be used in the same way, especially in the winter months, 
 when green food is scarce. In the autumn and winter the 
 fowls should have their morning meal as hot as they can 
 eat it, and it is well to give them warm water to drink, first 
 thing in the morning, when the weather is cold, as after 
 drinking cold water they will often stand moping about 
 with one foot up, whereas the warm water seems to revive 
 the whole system on a cold morning. Also, it is very bene- 
 ficial after the birds have had their warm breakfast to drive 
 them back into the house for three or four hours. This 
 causes them to be very active when they are turned out. 
 After they have been driven into the house for a few morn- 
 ings it will become customary to run into the house after 
 having had their breakfast. Of course they must be 
 fastened in. 
 
 If the simple rules I have gi\?en in this little manual are 
 followed, eggs will be found all the year round. Biscuit- 
 meal is one of the best meals that can be used, given alone, 
 or occasionally other meals mixed with it When this meal 
 is not used, a little oyster shell, mixed with the general 
 meals, helps 'them very much, as it not only furnishes 
 material for making the shell, but assists in digesting the 
 food, and is far superior to old mortar. If the fowls do not 
 have lime in some form or other it weakens the laying birds 
 very much, and often causes them to lay shell-less eggs. 
 
24 
 
 When this occurs they are apt to break before the fowls can 
 pass them, and when this is the case the fowls often die or 
 are ruptured for life ; but more often they are found dead 
 on the nest or underneath the perch in the morning. 
 
 Bone-meal strengthens the egg- organs more than any- 
 thing I have used. I do not have five soft eggs in three 
 weeks from 400 laying hens. It is well to use a little salt 
 for flavouring the soft food. 
 
 The following table will show the different proportions of 
 flesh-forming, &c., food contained in wheat, barley, and 
 other grain, &c., used for feeding poultry. It was, I believe, 
 originally published in the Poultry Diary, but the copy 
 given is taken from L. Wright's Book of Poultry : — 
 
 
 
 Warmth-giving 
 
 Bone- 
 
 
 
 There is in every 
 
 100 parts, 
 
 by weight, of 
 
 Flesh- 
 forming 
 material like 
 gluten, &c. 
 
 and fattening 
 material, viz. : — 
 
 making 
 materials or 
 
 mineral 
 substances. 
 
 Husk 
 
 or 
 Fibre. 
 
 1 
 
 Fat or 
 Oil. 
 
 Starch. 
 
 > 
 
 Beans and Peas... 
 
 25 
 
 2 
 
 48 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 IS 
 
 Oatmeal 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 63 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 Middlings, 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Thirds, or . \ 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 53 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 14 
 
 Fine Sharps ) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Oats 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 47 
 
 2 
 
 20 
 
 10 
 
 Wheat 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 70 
 
 2 
 
 I 
 
 12 
 
 Buckwheat 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 58 
 
 li 
 
 II 
 
 iij 
 
 Barley 
 
 II 
 
 2 
 
 60 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 II 
 
 Indian Corn 
 
 II 
 
 8 
 
 65 
 
 I 
 
 s 
 
 10 
 
 Hempseed 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 45 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 Rice 
 
 7 
 
 a trace. 
 
 80 
 
 a trace. 
 
 
 '3 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 6^ 
 
 
 41 
 
 2 
 
 • ■> 
 
 5oi 
 
 Milk 
 
 4i 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 * 
 
 ... 
 
 8sf 
 
 In the preceding remarks, I have mentioned what are 
 the best things to feed poultry on ; but perhaps the most 
 important part is when and how to feed, and what quantity 
 to give ; and although some writers mention certain definite 
 allowances for each fowl, I think the exact quantity must be 
 
left to the feeder's discretion, as fowls' appetites vary so much, 
 two birds at some times often eating as much as six at others. 
 The golden rule, however, is never to give one morsel more 
 than the birds will run after quickly, if thrown some distance 
 from them, and on no account whatever should food be left 
 lying about or in troughs, as not only does the sight turn 
 the fowls against it, but it also attracts sparrows, mice, rats, 
 &c., and the latter are not content with the food alone, but 
 often kill the young chickens as well. If there is a dry 
 piece of grass or gravel, the fowls should be fed on it ; but 
 in the winter and wet weather both meal and grain should 
 be given in troughs, unless a very clean dry place can be 
 had, as otherwise the dirt sticks to the food, and makes it 
 very injurious to the fowls. Another advantage in feeding 
 with troughs is, that they may be taken away directly the 
 birds have had sufficient, if they have not finished their 
 food. 
 
 FEEDING TROUGHS. 
 
 Except in winter the fowls should be let out of their 
 house for half-an-hour or so before giving them their break- 
 fast, as this gives them a better appetite for their food. 
 
 In the winter months, and more especially in October, 
 
26 
 
 when the mornings are chilly and many of the old birds are 
 moulting, poultry require very generous treatment, and at 
 this period they are often better for a little in the way of 
 " stimulants," such as hemp-seed, &c. My Powders, adver- 
 tised in the end of this book, will be found very beneficial 
 for health and egg-production all through the spring, 
 autumn and winter months, as they strengthen every organ 
 of the body, enabling fowls to produce a larger number of 
 eggs, and do not leave them weak, as many other laying- 
 powders do. They impart vigour to the birds, cause their 
 combs to be redder, plumage more glossy, and make a 
 marked difference in them before the Powders have been 
 used ten days. They have been used these last few years 
 with great benefit for rearing chickens, pheasants, turkeys, 
 and early ducklings by hundreds of breeders. (Refer to 
 testimonials on the use of these Powders.) 
 
 These little attentions take time and money, but the fowls 
 pay well for them, as, when they are thoroughly well looked 
 after and fed on warm, stimulating food, they will often lay 
 while they are moulting. 
 
 Perhaps, however, the most important, and very often 
 the most neglected, thing that poultry in confinement 
 require is a supply of grit, for without it they are unable to 
 digest or grind their food. A miller cannot grind his corn 
 without stones, and it is the same with poultry, and if they 
 fail in getting a supply of small sharp stones (which the 
 greater part of the grit should be composed of) they suffer 
 in health, as these things are to poultry what teeth are to 
 human beings— they digesting or grinding their food with 
 small stones or grit, while we masticate ours with our 
 teeth. 
 
 When I hn^e had poultry suffer in health and die, I have 
 opened their, and often found an absence of these neces- 
 saries, and very often when fowls mope about and do not 
 
27 
 
 care to eat their food, it is simply for want of these small 
 stones, and very often, when in this state, they do not care 
 to pick up the small stones, &c., in which case some should 
 be mixed with the meal and forced down their throats, 
 when, as a rule, they will soon be all right. 
 
 The round shingle which is sent from the seaside, and 
 used by hundreds as grit, is simply useless, as it, being 
 round, cannot perform the necessary work. Very sharp 
 small stones are required, in fact the edges cannot be too 
 sharp. The friction of the water constantly flowing over the 
 shingle causes it to become in time as smooth as glass. 
 Egg-shells help to form the new shell ; but they should be 
 broken very small before being given to the fowls, otherwise 
 it may teach them to eat their eggs. Sand and small gravel, 
 such as may be obtained at the bottom of steep country 
 roads after a storm of rain, or ordinary road scrapings, are 
 also much liked by poultry, and if none of the above can be 
 obtained flint or pebble stones should be broken up small 
 and given them, as grit they must have in some shape or 
 other. 
 
 Too much maize is not good for fowls, as it brings on 
 liver disease sooner than anything I know. It makes too 
 much internal fat, and also makes blood too fast. Fowls 
 that are fed liberally on it are lined with yellow fat, espe- 
 cially in the abdomen. I have taken it out when it has 
 been half an inch thick ; the egg organs become so weak 
 they often lay shell-less eggs. Even this is not the worst part 
 of it, as fowls that have liver disease are susceptible of many 
 other diseases, especially roup. It is not always the liver 
 that actually kills them. It is very often that other diseases 
 follow through their being in a weak state. When roup has 
 been incurable, I have found on examination that the liver 
 was diseased — it is called scrofula — having white spots on it 
 Sometimes they are only as large as the head of a pin. It 
 
28 
 
 no other disease sets in, the spots become very large, also 
 the liver. I have weighed it when it has turned the scale 
 at 9 ozs. In-breeding also brings on liver disease. 
 There are more fowls die of this disease than all the others 
 put together. I have known farmers use maize for years 
 together, and it has affected the progeny so that they could 
 scarcely rear a chicken. They died off when from four to 
 six days, and from four to six weeks old. It is used so 
 largely as it is such a cheap food. A little maize for a 
 change does not hurt the fowls, especially in the cold 
 weather. I use more wheat than any other grain, as that 
 does not make so much internal fat as most other grains 
 do. Next to wheat I use French buckwheat, dari, and a 
 little barley. Good oats are a splendid grain for a change, 
 but they ought not to weigh less than 40 to 42 lbs. to the 
 bushel. If 44 lbs. so much the better. Hempseed is also an 
 excellent grain for the breeding-season, especially for the 
 male birds. If this seed is given, there will not be many 
 unfertile eggs. It helps them very much. It is also very 
 good in the autumn through their moult, as it is stimulating. 
 It is used largely for bringing young chickens into good 
 condition for the show pen. It is well to change the grain, 
 as the birds like variations. 
 
 From October to March it is well to soften the corn by 
 boiling from 15 to 30 minutes, and standing the pot on one 
 side till it soaks up the water used for boiling, giving it to 
 the fowls when hot. Care should be taken not to boil the 
 grain too much, or to use too much water, as it causes it to 
 burst and become very sticky, in which state it is not at all 
 liked by the fowls. ; 
 
 They ought not to have as much boiled corn as they can 
 eat, but should have a little hard corn to finish up with. 
 When meat is given to the fowls, care should be taken in 
 cutting it into moderate pieces, just so that they can 
 
29 
 
 swallow it. If left in large pieces, one hen gels hold of a 
 large piece and runs away with it, and while she is trying to 
 peck it to pieces, the others eat all theirs, and then have a 
 good run to the large piece, in which case the hen which 
 ran away with it usually has not any, and worse than this, 
 the hen that swallows the large piece often gets into trouble, 
 as it sometimes causes a stoppage between the crop and 
 gizzard. When fowls are deprived of a grass run and fed 
 liberally, and at the same time are rather short of green food, 
 their blood gets very hot, especially in the spring months. 
 It is well to use a little flour of sulphur (sometimes called 
 brimstone). There are two sorts, the dark and the yellow; 
 the latter is the best ; one heaped-up teaspoonful for ten fowls 
 is the quantity to be used. Sulphur, unfortunately, causes 
 the eggs to have a strong taste. This is partly counteracted 
 by using the same quantity of common salt as sulphur. It 
 is not well to use this medicine too early in the spring, as 
 it opens the pores of the skin too much if it is given in cold 
 weather, or when the cold wind is blowing. One heaped- 
 up teaspoonful of mustard to ten fowls, given once or twice 
 a week, will help them very much, especially if they are 
 breeding stock ; the same quantity of sulphur, mustard and 
 salt to be given. 
 
 Fish is also a very good thing to give fowls where con- 
 venient Unless it is oily fish, and given very liberally, it 
 does not taste in the eggs. English people do not cultivate 
 herbs as they ought to for the use of their poultry. There 
 are two herbs most valuable in the poultry yard, and yet 
 they are trodden under foot and thrown to the rubbish 
 heap, or rooted up altogether as the most wretched things 
 that grow. These herbs are stinging nettles and dande- 
 lions. The stinging nettle is one of the most cooling for 
 the blood that can be found among all herbs. At the same 
 time fowls do not catch cold after having them (as they are 
 
3° 
 
 liable to do with sulphur). The nettles should be got when 
 young ; they can be cut short and boiled, and then mixed 
 with the soft food, and the water they are boiled in will 
 also do to mix with their food. If time will not permit 
 boiling them, they can be put in a vessel of some kind, and 
 boiling water poured over them. Cover them over, so that 
 the steam cannot evaporate. The nettles and the tea can 
 be mixed with the meal ; also add a little salt. When given 
 in this way they are both food and medicine. It is rather 
 difficult to gather them, unless a glove is put on to handle 
 them. They can be cut with a knife or scissors, not pulled ; 
 then they grow again very quickly. Nettles are invaluable 
 for fowls. Dandelions are an excellent herb for the liver. 
 They will often put the poultry right when everything else 
 fails. The leaves can be pulled from the roots and cut in 
 small pieces, and given just in their raw state. If the roots 
 of these two herbs are set in the autumn or winter (not 
 later than February) they will grow anywhere if they are 
 put underneath the soil. The nettles can be found by the 
 side of hedges, and dandelions by the roadside, or on any 
 waste piece of ground. They have a yellow flower which 
 grows upon a round stem. Watercress is an excellent green 
 food for poultry, but rather too dear to buy. Where there 
 are many poultry kept, and spare ground at command, cow- 
 cabbages are the most economical to grow, as they grow very 
 large, and if grown properly, one is sufficient for fifty fowls 
 in one day; the fowls are particularly fond of them. A 
 mangold wurtzel for a change is very good. It is well to 
 cut them in half; then there is nothing left but the skin. 
 Those who live in towns, and have but little space, cannot 
 grow either cabbage or lettuce, but can grow rape, mustard, 
 or maize. These can be grown in boxes with, a little earth 
 and manure, and must be well watered. The seed springs 
 very quickly, and in the hot weather is ready in a few days. 
 
31 
 
 By having seven boxes, and sowing every day, there is a 
 daily supply of green food. 
 
 The maize springs twice or three times without sowing 
 again. It can either be cut, or the box placed in the run 
 for the fowls to peck it off. The size of boxes must vary 
 according to number of fowls kept ; not more than two or 
 three inches of soil is necessary in the boxes. If the space 
 is very limited, the boxes can be placed on the top of the 
 fowl-house, but in the sun as much as possible. 
 
 This green food can only be grown in the summer 
 months. 
 
HOW TO BREED, AND WHAT 
 TO BREED FROM. 
 
 ONE of the most important points towards successful 
 poultry keeping is to breed only from the best birds,, 
 and never on any account to set an egg from an inferior or 
 sickly bird. If fowls for laying are required, the poultry 
 should be watched, and the eggs of the best laying hen set, 
 when the chickens will generally all be good layers. This, 
 can be done where only a few birds are k^pt. If, on the 
 other hand, they are required lor table, the eggs of the. 
 finest and plumpest birds only should be used. 
 
 Whatever sort of poultry is kept, whether pure breeds or 
 the commonest mongrels, if they are watched, and the eggs 
 from the best ones only set, the stock may soon be easily 
 improved, as there is almost sure to beon. good layer in 
 the very worst half-dozen. It is always best to have a pure 
 bred cock, as most pure breeds have some distinctive quality 
 that it is well to introduce in mongrel birds. If, however, a 
 
34 
 
 mongrel or half-bred cock is an extra fine bird, or comes 
 from^ an extraordinary laying hen, it may often pay to breed 
 from him, although I do not recommend this course as a 
 rule. It must always be borne in mind that while a bad 
 hen only causes a portion of a brood to be inferior, an 
 indifferent cock spoils the whole hatch. 
 
 The number of hens to be allowed with each rooster, to 
 obtain fertile eggs, differs according to the nature of the 
 bird, but as a rule, a Cochin will take from four to six hens, 
 and a Brahma from six to nine, while six is enough for most 
 other breeds; but with some, such as Game, Hamburghs, 
 Houdans, Leghorns, Minorcas and Rocks, nine or ten hens 
 may often be allowed. It all depends whether the birds are 
 highly bred or not. A heavy Cochin or Brahma, if he will 
 breed, will not manage half as many hens as a smaller one. 
 I have known as many as thirty hens running with one 
 cock, and early in the season all the eggs were fertile, but 
 not for long. 
 
 Too much attention cannot be given to the subject of 
 introducing fresh blood into a poultry yard, as the chickens 
 never make such fine birds, and are seldom so strong and 
 ■ healthy when the parents are related. 
 
 Where it is desired to keep, say a dozen hens and only 
 one cock, the best way to obtain fertile eggs is to shut off 
 with the cock, for a few hours every morning, just the hens 
 from which it is desired to breed, as the eggs of, say half-a- 
 dozen hens, may then be depended upon for hatching. 
 
 INCUBATION. 
 
 Artificial incubation is very much in vogue at the 
 present time, not only where large numbers of chickens are 
 required, but also where a very limited number are kept, 
 especially by ladies who have time to attend to them 
 
35 
 
 properly. Cottagers frequently make their own. Some of 
 them answer very well, hatching 12 chickens out of 15 eggs. 
 The high price of incubators prevents the working classes 
 investing in them. I feel sure a much cheaper one could 
 be produced than those already in the market. I have 
 tried several makers' machines, and many have come under 
 my notice, but I find no maker turns out all good machines ; 
 that is, some of them fail to do their work, and yet to all 
 appearance it is no fault of the makers. Nevertheless, it 
 remains a fact. I have known those which have no self- 
 regulation work equally as well as those which have. I 
 am much more in favour of incubators now than 1 used to 
 be, as they are very much improved. They are easily 
 worked, and save a great deal of trouble running after hens. 
 Another advantage is, the eggs can be put in every few 
 days while they are fresh (by those who breed from their 
 own poultry). If fresh eggs are put in the drawer with 
 others previously put in, a piece of flannel or cotton-wool 
 should be put between them, as the cold eggs are apt to 
 chill the others, especially if they have only been in a few 
 days. If they are near hatching it does not hurt them. I 
 am often asked which is the best in the market. This I 
 cannot always answer, as in some cases I have known them 
 all fail, and on the other hand, at other times nearly every 
 egg has hatched a live chicken. A really good incubator is 
 a great boon to poultry-keepers. The machines which 
 have obtained the best results under my notice are Hear- 
 son's, Ellis & Tyler's, Christy's, and Tomlinson's. There 
 may be others - good, but I have not met with them. 
 Those mentioned are easily worked. A pamphlet would 
 be forwarded from either place if applied for — Chnsty, 
 Ellis & Tyler, and Hearson, London; and Tomlinson, 
 Birmingham. There are some people who think if chickens 
 are hatched in an incubator they do not grow so large nor do 
 
 D 2 
 
36 
 
 so well. This is only superstition. They do equally as 
 well if taken care of. They are not so liable to vermin as 
 when hatched under hens, as the hen breeds them during 
 the period of sitting. Care must be taken in dusting her. 
 I think there are a larger proportion of cripples hatched 
 with an incubator than under hens, but there are no 
 chickens killed by the incubator as there are by the hen 
 trampling on them. Incubators are a great convenience, 
 save time, can be worked any time in the year, and there 
 are many who enjoy attending to them. A few common 
 eggs should always be put in first to see if the incubator 
 works right. This frequently saves disappointment, as it 
 takes a few days to get them into working order. When 
 non-sitting breeds are kept they are indeed very useful 
 
 SITTING AND HATCHING. 
 
 Opinions vary regarding the proper way to set hens, for 
 while some persons prefer a nest on the ground in a damp 
 situation, others always set their birds in as dry a place as 
 possible. I have found the best way is to imitate nature as 
 much as possible, for, as a rule, hens that choose their own 
 nests usually bring offlarge broods. 
 
 If a hen that is sitting in a stolen nest is watched, it will 
 be observed that she chooses a dry, secluded spot for her 
 nest, and though the ground may be dry when she selects 
 her nest, the heat from her body draws a certain moisture 
 from the ground to the eggs, which, of course, is a very 
 gradual moisture ; she also leaves her nest early in the morn- 
 ing to search for her food, and as the grass is quite wet with 
 the dew, the bird's breast also gets wet, and in this state she 
 returns to her eggs, and consequently damps them. 
 
 It will therefore be seen that it is best to make the nest 
 on the ground, and to cover it in from the others. Where 
 
37 
 
 possible, a separate house should be used for sitting, and 
 the hens left quite to themselves ; but this may be done 
 without, and a nest made in the usual house and covered 
 over with an old piece of bagging, &c, so arranged that it 
 may easily be moved every morning. 
 
 The best way to make the nest is by scooping out a little 
 earth from the floor, and then beating the soil quite firm in 
 the shape of a nest. Where the earth cannot be removed, 
 a few shovelfuls should be obtained, and moulded into 
 the same shape in an ordinary nest box, a turf being placed 
 on the top and well beaten into shape. It is easier to make 
 a nest with loose earth than a turf, and it is well to sprinkle 
 a little lime in the nest and beat it in with the hand. If the 
 soil is damp it forms a crust and holds well together. 
 
 The nest should be made quite round, so that all the eggs 
 are covered if the fowl moves her position ; it should be 
 hollowed somewhat in the centre, in order that the eggs 
 come together and do not roll out of reach when the fowl 
 steps into the nest Plenty of room must be given, as, when 
 a bird' is cramped in sitting, many eggs get broken. The 
 nest should be made of soft, fine hay, the inside being 
 lined with feathers just at the bottom of the nest in cold 
 weather. Hay is much better than straw, as it sticks closer 
 together, and therefore holds the warmth better, and the 
 hen may consequently be allowed more eggs. Straw being 
 hollow, it conducts the cold air to the eggs, especially in 
 frosty weather. 
 
 When it is required to set fowls in a strange nest, it is 
 best to put them on their new nest at night unless very 
 tame. They should not be forced or hurried, but ought to 
 be placed in front of the nest they are to occupy, with a few 
 common eggs in it, when they will generally take to it at 
 once, and if not disturbed again too soon, they will stick to 
 it and sit well. Some hens, however, won't sit in a strange 
 
38 
 
 nest, and the only thing that can be done with them is to 
 patiently allow them to have their own way, or else not to 
 set them at all. Hens that have travelled a journey, or have 
 been removed, should be put in a coop and fed well with 
 hard corn and water, and then be placed on their nest in 
 the evening, and covered in so that they are partly in the 
 dark, and should not be taken off the next day, but the day 
 after. This enables them to be well settled down before 
 being disturbed. For the first few days they should be fed 
 in a coop or other small place ; if not, they become too wild, 
 and will not go back to their nest. They should be handled 
 very gently. It is well to place the feeding-coop before the 
 nest, so that the hen may see her nest ; she will then walk 
 straight on. 
 
 I cannot give the number of eggs that should be allowed 
 a hen, as both the hens and eggs differ so much in size, and 
 a jreat deal also depends on the state of the weather ; but, 
 for fair-sized hens, about thirteen ordinary eggs will be 
 rufScient in the early spring, but a larger number may h2 
 given if the hen be set in warmer weather. I have set twenty- 
 four eggs under one hen, and hatched out twenty-two chickens; 
 but this is far too many as a rule, and if any doubt is felt as to 
 the number to give a hen, it is best to be on the safe side 
 and give one too few ; for if a hen has too many eggs she 
 may let a different one get cold every time she turns them, 
 and thus spoil the whole batch. 
 
 When the nest is made without soil or turf, the outer skin 
 of the egg becomes very dry during the last week of incuba- 
 tion, and the chickens usually hatch out very badly, and 
 often one-half do not crack their shell. To prevent this 
 occurring, it is best to moisten the eggs slightly during the 
 last few days. In moderate weather cold water will do to 
 wet the eggs with, but in cold weather it is best to use warm, 
 I find it is best to dip them in warm water and let them 
 
39 
 
 remain in for one or two seconds. The last three or five 
 days of incubation is sufificient 
 
 Should the hen break any of the eggs, they should be 
 removed immediately, and if any portion of the broken egg 
 is on the others, it should be wiped or washed off in warm 
 flater at once, as when it dries it stops the pores of the 
 shell, thus preventing the air passing through to the chick. 
 
 The hen should be lifted off the nest every morning, and 
 about the third morning she will rise up when her attendant 
 goes to her. Care must be taken in lifting the hen, and 
 this is best done by placing a hand under each wing to make 
 sure there are no eggs lodged there, and then take hold of 
 the legs with the fingers and lift steadily, letting the wings 
 rest on the' wrists. In cold weather the hen should not be 
 allowed to stay off the nest more than fifteen minutes, but 
 in warm weather she may be out from forty to sixty 
 minutes. The nest should be closed to prevent the other 
 hens going in it, and in very cold weather it is well to cover 
 up the eggs with a piece of flannel or wadding to prevent 
 their being chilled. 
 
 A supply of dust or ashes must be kept in a dry place for 
 the hen to clean herself with, and food and water must, of 
 course, be placed so that she may help herself. As sitting 
 hens go so long between each meal, it is best to feed them 
 on some sort of hard corn, as this lasts them longer than 
 soft food. 
 
 Sometimes a hen when sitting will lose her appetite. 
 When this is the case she ought to have a little hemp seed, 
 soaked bread, and pieces of meat She must be tempted 
 with these, as, if she does not eat she cannot sit her time, 
 and the whole sitting of eggs will consequently be spoiled. 
 
 It is well to examine the eggs about the eighth day to see 
 if they have chicks in. This may easily be done by turning 
 them slowly round in front of a small lamp or randle in a 
 
40 
 
 dark room. If there is a chicken in the egg there will be a 
 dark spot in the middle, while those that appear quite clear 
 are unfertile. The brown-shelled eggs are rather more 
 difficult to tell, but if there is any doubt they, should be left 
 under the hen a few days more and then tried. 
 
 The unfertile eggs should always be removed, as it gives 
 the others a better opportunity; and where a large number of 
 chickens are hatched, it is well to set three or more hens on 
 the same day, and if many eggs are unfertile, those with 
 chickens in may be given to two hens, and the other hen 
 turned off or supplied with some fresh eggs, as it does them 
 no harm to sit for a month. This may be done all through 
 the season, and by these means trouble is saved and each 
 hen will have a good brood instead of wasting time with 
 only a few chickens. 
 
 The eggs that are set should always be marked in ink, 
 with the date they are placed under the hen, so that they 
 may be easily known. The unfertile eggs that are taken 
 away may be boiled hard and chopped up for the chickens, 
 as they are quite sweet and as good as many of the French 
 eggs we use 
 
 When the hen is hatching, I always find it best to remove 
 the chickens every two or three hours, and it is, therefore, 
 well to accustom her to the hand being put under her, or 
 she will be restless and spiteful when the chickens are 
 removed, and perhaps crush some of thcm^or the hatching 
 eggs. 
 
 As the chickens are removed, they should be placed in a 
 box in wadding before the fire until they are all hatched, 
 when the hen should be let out for a good run and feed ; 
 for, as a rule, they do not come ofT the nest for two days 
 before hatching. The chickens should then be placed in the 
 coop, when the hen will walk in and brood them quietly. 
 If the hen is very wild and restless, it is best to leave her 
 
41 
 
 quite to herself when hatching, or she will flutter about and 
 trample her chicks to death. 
 
 When the eggs are fresh — and by rights none but fresh 
 eggs should be set — they will often hatch in nineteen-and-a- 
 half or twenty days, but if at the close of twenty-one days 
 the eggs are not chipped, they should be examined, which 
 may be done by tapping the egg and holding it close to the 
 ear, when if the chicken is alive its beak will tap against the 
 shell, or it will chirrup. A small hole should then be made 
 with a penknife, to give the chicken a start, at the large end. 
 If the chicken is alive, the skin next the shell is white ; if 
 dead, it is a dark colour. After the hole is made, the 
 egg should be turned gently round, to ascertain where the 
 chicken's beak lies. Then break a small hole where the 
 beak is. If the blood follows, put it under the hen at once ; 
 if no blood appears the chicken can be taken out at once. 
 There are thousands of chickens die in the shell for the 
 want of a little help. It is when the beak lies in a slanting 
 position against the shell, and, as the egg is oval, when the 
 chick endeavours to free itself its beak slides. After making 
 the hole in the shell, the egg should be placed under the 
 hen for twelve hours longer, and at the end of this time the 
 chick will have drawn the blood up into its body, and be 
 quite prepared to leave the shell, if not already out of it. 
 
 CHICKEN REARING. 
 
 There are many different systems pursued in rearing 
 chickens, and I have tried most of them and found them 
 answer more or less ; but I think that the following lines 
 will describe the best and simplest method. 
 
 When all the chickens are hatched they should be placed 
 in a coop with the hen where they can get as much liberty 
 as possible. If not cooped on or near grass they must be 
 
42 
 
 provided with a supply of green food chopped up smaH, 
 and the more they have the better they will thrive. 
 
 There are many kinds of coops used, but the best is 
 made with match-boarding, the size being according to the 
 fowl ; 2 feet wide, 2^ feet long, is a fair size, but large hens 
 should have a coop 3 feet long and 2 feet 3 inches high in 
 front and i foot 6 inches at the back, thus giving it the 
 appearance of a lean-to roof A 6-inch board should be 
 nailed along the top of the front part of the coop, and the 
 
 CHICKEN COOP. 
 
 pins or bars should run from this to the ground, not cross- 
 ways ; they should be about 2^ or 3 inches apart, so as to 
 give the chicks plenty of room. A little door may be made 
 in the middle, about a foot wide, worked with hinges ; or a 
 better way is to arrange for one or two of the bars to fit in a 
 socket, so that they may be withdrawn at any time and 
 answer for the door. It is well to board up part of the front 
 of the coop, so as to prevent the rain beating in. This kind 
 of coop will be very light, and may be easily carried about, 
 
43 
 
 and will last for years if well tarred or painted and kept out 
 of the wet when not in use. 
 
 There are many elaborate coops, much more expensive 
 than these, for those who wish to buy them, and there are 
 also some less expensive that may be made out of an old 
 soap-box or tea-chest, after the cracks have been stopped 
 with stiff brown paper glued on and afterwards well lime- 
 washed. As the roof will be flat, an extra piece of wood 
 must be nailed on the top, to allow the water to run off. 
 I have used coops made in this manner for many years, and 
 
 CHICKEN COOP MADE OUT OF A TEA CHEST. 
 
 found them answer well, as they may be made very snug 
 and warm. 
 
 It is a disputed point as to whether coops should have 
 bottoms to them or not, for while some people hold that 
 the boards keep the chickens dry, and prevent the hen 
 drawing up the moisture to them by the heat of her body, I 
 say that the boards produce cramp, unless they have a fair 
 thickness of some loose stuff on them. 
 
 Chickens are much more liable to have cramp, especially 
 
44 
 
 in the winter and early spring, when they are allowed to run 
 on hard or solid floors such as boards, bricks, or concrete. 
 It is for want of circulation of the blood in the legs and 
 feet, or, in other words, the blood becomes chilled while it 
 is passing through the chickens' legs and feet. If the cramp 
 is not checked the toes refuse to do their proper work, and 
 become doubled under their feet. When they get to this 
 stage they soon begin to show a roughness in their plumage, 
 denoting the cramp is in the body. In very bad cases they 
 become quite unable to move. There is often more than 
 half the early broods die with cramp. This is very dis- 
 couraging after all the trouble of hatching them out, and 
 early chickens are so very valuable, whether crosses or pure 
 bred. When chickens first show symptoms of cramp it 
 is well to catch them at once and rub their legs with a little 
 turpentine. In bad cases it is well to use a little, spirits of 
 arnica. This will soak in very quickly. A little vaseline 
 should then be rubbed on the legs and feet after the tur- 
 pentine or arnica has been used. The vaseline supples 
 them and makes their legs and feet more pliable. It is 
 well to wrap their legs up with a little cotton wool. This 
 keeps them warm, and the blood soon circulates freely again. 
 For binding up the toes refer to paragraph on " Cramp." 
 Sometimes chickens are hatched with their toes turned 
 under. When this is the case the splints, as described in 
 " Cramp," must be put on in the same way. If chickens 
 are kept under glass after they are a fortnight old they are 
 very subject to cramp and many other diseases. It is not 
 good for them to be kept entirely under glass, and therefore 
 they should have their full liberty if possible, however cold 
 the weather. If there is a shed or cover of any sort that 
 they can go under when they like, so much the better. 
 When the weather is very cold or wet the front of the coop 
 should be covered with an old sack or bagging in the night ; 
 
45 
 
 but in moderate weather they do just as well without any 
 covering. 
 
 As chickens do not drink for the first day or two, they 
 require something both moist and nourishing ; hard-boiled 
 eggs chopped up fine and mixed with groats or coarse oat- 
 meal is the best food for the first day or two. The hen 
 should always be fed with plenty of corn before feeding the 
 chickens, or she will eat all the food intended for them. 
 When the hen is a long time hatching, the elder chicks 
 often require feeding before the others are out. All of them 
 may not eat the first day they are hatched, but if they do 
 not eat the second day they should be carefully fed once 
 or twice with a few small pieces of egg and groats, and 
 after this they will look out for themselves. A supply of 
 clean water must always be kept with the chickens in a 
 shallow pan, and they may be taught to drink by putting a 
 few pieces of groats or egg in the water. When the chicks 
 are two or three days old they should be fed outside, the 
 coop on a board or sack, and it is a very good plan to 
 sprinkle a little silver sand or fine grit on the sack, as it 
 clings to the food and serves as grit, with which they must 
 be kept supplied. 
 
 After the chickens are two or three days old the egg may 
 be discontinued, and the food consist of biscuit meal soaked 
 with hot water ; not made too wet ; if so it is liable to give 
 them diarrhoea, and dry groats, which is better than oat- 
 meal for them. A little soaked bread may be given now 
 and then, and if a little finely-chopped meat can be spared, 
 it will help them on wonderfully. For the first week or so 
 they should have food to run to all day, as, when there is 
 a large brood, some will be running about for food all day, 
 and they cannot be fed too often when young. After 
 this they should be fed every hour until a fortnight old, 
 commencing with the rising of the sun and ending with its 
 
46 
 
 setting. No food must be left lying about, or it will make 
 them dainty. When a fortnight old, every two hours will be 
 sufficient until they are about a month old, when they will 
 do if fed every three or four hours. A mixture of meal is very 
 good to use for the chickens, such as buckwheat meal, 
 barley and maize meal, locust meal and sharps when they 
 are growing large. 
 
 Sometimes there will be one or two chickens that do not 
 care to eat, and when this is the case, a pill should be made 
 with the advertised powders and some fine grit, and put 
 down the chickens' throats, and this will generally bring 
 thera round again. 
 
 Chickens thrive best if fed on groats, but as this is rather 
 expensive, it is well to give them biscuit-meal when they 
 are a week or so old, and this may be varied occasionally 
 by using a little other meal, such as buckwheat meal, ground 
 maize, oats, &c. The meal should always be given to them 
 warm. 
 
 Bone meal is excellent for young chickens, as it prevents 
 leg-weakness, and they grow so much finer, especially the 
 male birds. It is a cheap meal, as they do do not require 
 much of it. It can be used with any other meal — propor- 
 tion, about one pound of bone meal to four or five of any 
 other. More can be used if necessary. 
 
 Rice is very good for a change, and should be boiled ; it 
 may be obtained very cheap with the husk on. Potatoes, 
 &c., are also very good for them, and as they are generally 
 very fond of these things it is well to give them plenty, for 
 they will often eat them when they do not care for meal. 
 It is best to feed the chickens on grain for the evening 
 meal, and this should consist of groats for the first two or 
 three weeks, and afterwards any kind of grain except maize, 
 which must be kept out of their way until they are about 
 six weeJis old, as it is too much for them to digest. It will 
 
47 
 
 be found of great advantage to the chicks if the hard corn 
 is boiled occasionally as described. 
 
 For the first week or two the hen should be kept in the 
 coop ; but after this period she may be let out with the 
 chickens to roam at will. Cottagers, however, should always 
 keep the hen in the coop, and let the little ones run where 
 they like, when they will not fly to be an annoyance in a 
 neighbour's garden. The same remarks apply to others 
 than cottagers, and it is always well to place the coop in 
 the midst of the kitchen garden, when the chicks will eat 
 up worms, insects, &c, and thus prevent damage to crops ; 
 but they must, of course, be removed as soon as they begin 
 to scratch, and younger ones put in their place. 
 
 Gardeners may complain of the chickens being allowed 
 in the garden ; but if they are only allowed in while they 
 are small, they will cause no harm, but will do a deal of 
 good by eating up the small insects, &c. 
 
 The hen should be allowed with the chickens until they 
 are about six weeks old, when they will be able to take care 
 of themselves unless the weather is very severe. 
 
 When possible, the chickens should be allowed to roost 
 out in a coop or in an open shed, until a short time before 
 commencing to lay, when they should_be put in the house 
 with the others. 
 
 If chickens are fed in the manner I have described they 
 will not require much fattening before they are killed, as 
 they will be in first-rate condition for table. It is much the 
 best plan to keep fowls in this way, for they may then be 
 picked up and killed just as required, choosing the largest 
 first, and leaving the others till they are in a better condi- 
 tion, unless required for market, and they must be well- 
 fattened or they will not fetch a good price. 
 
 There is not sufficient attention given to the chickens as 
 regards dusting themselves. When they droop their wings 
 
 eyj 
 re/ 
 
48 
 
 and their feathers look rough they ought to be caught and 
 examined at once, especially round the head and under the 
 wings, to see whether there is any vermin on them, as when 
 this is the case they cannot thrive. Lime will destroy them, 
 but it is apt to get into the chickens' eyes and blind them. 
 I have found my Insect Powder, advertised in this book, the 
 best, as it does not injure the fowls in the least 
 
 There are six things to be observed in chicken rearing : — 
 I. A constant supply of fresh water. 2. Feed, so that there 
 is not a kernel of corn or grain of soft food left ; if so, it 
 soon becomes sour, and not only turns the fowls against it, 
 but harbours the rats. 3. A good supply of green food. 
 4. Always see that they have a good supply of sharp grit to 
 digest their food, if not, they cannot thrive for long. 5. 
 The dust-bath is very essential. 6, and lastly, see that 
 they have plenty of ventilation in the sleeping house and 
 are not too thick on the ground. If these six rules are 
 carried out, success is sure to follow, more or less. Any 
 green food will do for chickens, if cut fine so that there 
 are no large pieces ; if so, they swallow them, and it 
 causes a stoppage, usually between the crop and gizzard, 
 usually at the mouth of the latter, if the green food is of a 
 tough nature, such as withered grass or dead cabbage leaves. 
 When there are hairs or pieces of soft wood adhering to the 
 soft food the chickens are apt to swallow them. Anything 
 of this sort blocks the passage to the gizzard entirely up. I 
 have had many sent to me for examination, and these 
 simple things have been the cause of death. 
 
 
PURE BRED FOWLS. 
 
 I HAVE only given the outlines of the pure breeds, just 
 so that an amateur may distinguish one breed from 
 another. To describe all the points of all pure breeds, 
 mating birds for exhibition, &c., would be impossible, as 
 space in this small hand-work could not be allowed. I 
 have just stated what is the best breed to keep under 
 different circumstances. Plymouth Rock is the' most 
 fashionable breed now, and the public choice is not a bad 
 one. It matters not what breed is kept, as they do not 
 always thrive so well one year as another. They vary very 
 much in their laying qualities ; it is not so much the breed 
 but the strairL No pure-bred pullet ought to lay before 
 she is six months old. Before this age I always endeavour 
 to keep them back if I see them reddening up too early, as 
 nature must have time to do her work. If they get on too 
 fast they should not have any flesh food, or anything to 
 stimulate, and change them from one run to the other.* 
 
 E 
 
so 
 
 This will put them back. On the other hand, if they do 
 not comeon till very late they require a stimulant, for at 
 times nature requires assistance. 
 
 PLYMOUTH ROOKS. 
 
 This breed has made its way into our country most 
 rapidly. It can be found among all classes, from the 
 highest to the lowest. It can be found not only in parks and 
 paddocks, but in the back yards of cottagers in almost every 
 town and village. If a bird is the colour of the Rock it is 
 picked up at once. The past three years I have given them 
 a good test. I have tried 31 different breeds, and out of 
 that number the Plymouth Rock has proved one of the best 
 all-round birds. I will point out a few of their good quali- 
 ties, and also what some people call their 'bad ones. 
 Firstly, they are very hardy, inasmuch as they will stand 
 confinement, and the cold and damp does not affect them. 
 They are good winter layers, but come broody when the 
 warm weather sets in ; but they are very easily checked if 
 treated as described in paragraph on broody coop. If they 
 are required for sitting they make splendid sitters and good 
 mothers. As they have only four toes on each foot and 
 are very strong in the wing, they cover the eggs and 
 chickens well. They also lay a brown egg. In this they vary 
 a little, some having a very brown shell, and others a pale 
 brown. Sometimes purchasers are a little disappointed, as 
 the eggs vary in colour. This makes no difference to the 
 quality of the breed ; but, at the same time, most people 
 like to get them as brown as possible. They are not large 
 eggs for the size of the birds ; some lay much larger than 
 others. Taking them all round they are about the size of 
 the Brahma. I have had some larger, but this is about the 
 average. They are eggs which will sell in either town or 
 country. When set, the eggs of Plymouth Rocks hatch out 
 
PLYMOUTH ROCK COCK. 
 
5» 
 
 well I better than the Cochin or Brahma. The chickens 
 do not appear to grow so fast the first two months as many 
 other breeds do, especially the cockerels (as they do not 
 feather so quickly as the pullets). After that age they fill 
 out very fast. A great many of the cockerels come very 
 light in colour, and are useless for breeding pure birds. 
 Those that are rejected do very well for crossing with any 
 other breed. There is one disadvantage in breeding 
 Plymouth Rocks (if it may be called so) — many of the 
 pullets come black, and their legs are usually very dark. 
 The only way they can be detected from a clean-legged 
 Langshan is, that they have yellow feet, especially the 
 underneath part and between the toes. These usually make 
 the largest pullets and are good layers. Unfortunately there 
 are no black cockerels among them ; if so, a black breed 
 could be established. There are some breeders who mate a 
 very light cock with yellow legs and beak with black hens, 
 to obtain dark-coloured cockerels with yellow legs and beaks 
 and good, evenly-marked plumage all through. It is not 
 well to breed from a dark-coloured cockerel when the 
 pullets or hens are dark ; if so, many of the pullets will 
 come black. This breed requires great care in mating up ; 
 if not, the results are unsatisfactory. 
 
 It is not those who keep the best birds always breed the 
 best fowls. The mating of them is the secret — that is, 
 when required for the show pen, or to realise a good price. 
 There are a few little things to avoid, and others to culti- 
 vate. If fowls for the above purpose are required, first see 
 that the cock has red face and ear-lobes ; the latter should 
 be free from streaks of white, comb evenly serrated and 
 standing erect yellow legs and beak (if possible), the former 
 being the most important. The breast and shoulders should 
 be broad, and the bird should have good carriage. The 
 more evenly the cocks are marked the better. White 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 feathers will appear in the tail, but this is one thing to 
 avoid ; but it is diflScult to get them without a little white 
 in the tail. It is not a matter of light or dark shade, but of 
 even marking. The hen's comb should stand erect, and be 
 firmly set to the head and evenly serrated. The plumage 
 should be of two distinct colours ; each feather should be 
 marked with a very light slate, almost white, and a very 
 dark slate. In those birds which are of a dark shade, the 
 dark marking looks almost black, especially in the hens. 
 When one feather is examined separately, it should be 
 marked to the quill, one bar of light and then of dark. The 
 last bar or spot of white should just show, and the tip of 
 the feather should be edged with the dark shade. When 
 they are evenly marked it gives the birds the appearance of 
 being beautifully spotted all over. The more evenly the hens 
 are marked in this way the better. The light markings must 
 not run into the dark. The hackles (the neck feathers) are 
 marked finely, but should be the same shade. The cock's 
 breast should be the same colour as the hen's body, and 
 the hackles and saddle are of a much finer marking. When 
 the birds are of a fine colour, the markings should be of a 
 bright grey, showing distinctly the light and dark shades. 
 Care should be taken in mating Plymouth Rocks. If not, 
 there are many of the cockerels come very light, and vice 
 versa, and the pullets black. If the hens are of a dark 
 shade, a light cock, with yellow legs and beak, should be 
 mated. This is the colour that usually produces the best- 
 marked pullets, but the cockerels are very light. It is very 
 diflScult to produce good pullets and cockerels from the 
 same pen, unless there are a good number of stock birds to 
 pick from. If good cockerels are required, a medium- 
 coloured cock may be mated with dark hens. If mated in 
 this way, a few black pullets must be expected. If the hens 
 are of a light shade, a dark cock may be mated with them, 
 

 PLYMOUTH ROCK HEN. 
 
53 
 
 Great care should be taken in mating this breed. A light- 
 coloured cock, with bright yellow legs and beak, will pro- 
 duce the best marked pullets, and a dark-shade cock the 
 best coloured cockerels. When chickens of this breed are 
 brought up under trees or shade, their plumage keeps a 
 much brighter colour, as the summer tans them very much. 
 In the summer months Plymouth Rock hens usually lose 
 the yellow cast from their legs — in fact, some become quite 
 white, especially if allowed to sit. Their legs become yellow 
 again when they change their feathers, but not such a deep 
 colour as when pullets. I do not mind a Rock hen having 
 pale legs if I know the blood is right. This is not always a 
 point to go by, as there are many half-bred Rocks which have 
 much brighter legs than the pure ones. This is one reason 
 why the purchasers of this breed ought to be careful from 
 where they procure their stock. 
 
 If Plymouth Rocks ar,e only required fpr table and eggs 
 these points may be lost sight of, and birds with short legs 
 and an intelligent-looking head sought after. I like to in- 
 troduce fresh blood every year, when eggs only are required, 
 as it always pays in the end. The chickens are much 
 stronger, pullets lay earlier, and the cockerels fledge much 
 faster. I knew a Plymouth Rock pullet in 1884 lay when 
 under four months old. This, of course, is unusual. They 
 usually commence laying when about seven months old. 
 This is the average, but some commence at six months. 
 It depends upon how they are attended to when young, and 
 whether they are bred from a good laying strain. I have 
 known them lay 60 eggs before they were eight months old. 
 This is an exception, and not a rule. I had one hen which 
 laid over ten months out of twelve. The pullets bred from 
 this hen laid when five months old. The cockerels were 
 very short in the legs and broad in the breast. I have bred 
 from four of the cockerels this year. This breed will, I am 
 
54 
 
 sure, still spread, as they possess such good qualities. They 
 are heavy, broad in the breast, stand confinement well, do 
 not show the dirt, lay a brown egg, are very hardy, with no 
 leathers on the leg, and stand the cold weather well. I 
 prefer them to the Cochin this year. I bred from 1 25 of 
 them to 35 ol the Cochins. They are much more active, 
 and better table fowls. Where table birds are required, this 
 breed ought to be kept, especially if cross-breds are kept. 
 They improve them very much. They can easily be bred 
 with white legs and skins, if these are preferred. The 
 plumage of this breed fades very much when exposed to 
 light, and especially if not sheltered from the sun. Some 
 shades fade more than others. The dark markings, which 
 some people call black, fade and turn brown, especially in 
 the cocks. It can be noticed more particularly on the top 
 of the back. It is well to avoid this as much as possible. 
 Sometimes, when they are a rusty colour before they moult, 
 their new plumage will come quite a distinct colour, fit for 
 exhibition. They are good birds for a town, as tbey do not 
 show the dirt. The chickens can be distinguished from 
 other breeds. When all hatched out together, they are very 
 dark on back. This part may be called black, and light 
 colour underneath. The mark of distinction is at the back 
 of the head ; it is a small grey spot. The Itfgs and beak 
 are usuaally very yellow. They do not show the markings 
 on their plumage until their feathers grow. I put the 
 Plymouth Rock down as one of the best all-round breeds, 
 as I have thoroughly proved them to be. One vigorous 
 cock may run with nine hens, and almost every egg will be 
 fertile. 
 
 MINOROAS. 
 This breed has been the best known in the West of 
 England, especially in Cornwall; they abound there like 
 
W. COOK'S MINORCA COCKEREL. 
 
 PRIZE BIRD. 
 
55 
 
 cross-bred fowls do in many other parts of the country. I 
 visited Cornwall a few years since, and was surprised to see so 
 many there ; but I thought, as most other visitors have done, 
 that they were a good bird for that warm climate — as they 
 are non-sitlers — ^but not for colder climates nor for confined 
 runs ; but to my great surprise I find it is not so. They are 
 excellent for confined places, and they can now be found in 
 almost every town in England and in many country places, 
 even on farms. I have tried many experiments with them 
 these last three years, both in cold and sheltered places and on 
 different soils ; I have reared them and not put them in a 
 house or shed from the time they were hatched until they 
 laid ; I have tried them against my Houdans, and they sur- 
 passed them for laying purposes altogether. As a rule they 
 have laid from a month to six weeks earlier than the Houdan, 
 all hatched at the same time and brought up together. This 
 is the only way to test which really are the best fowls, so that 
 they all have the same treatment. The eggs of the Minorcas 
 are very fine ; they lay one of the largest eggs of any breed ; 
 some strains of Houdan lay as large, but they are very 
 scarce ; also the Creve Coeur, Spanish, and La Fleche lay 
 large in some instances. I find all breeds that are accustomed 
 to lay large eggs differ very much ; the reason often is, that 
 they lay at an earlier age. A pullet that commences to lay at 
 from four to five months old will not lay such a large egg as 
 one that does not commence until she is six or eight months. 
 Although they lay white eggs they are very saleable both in 
 town and country. This breed is not the most popu- 
 lar of the day, but one of them ; even now I do not think 
 they stand so high on the list as they ought to do. They are 
 without exception one of the best non-sitting breeds to keep 
 if large eggs are required, as there are so many thousands 
 who want eggs and do not care whether they are good table 
 fowls or not. The Minorca is not considered a good table 
 
56 
 
 fowl by the public as a rule, and yet there is no fowl eats so 
 much like a turkey, that is in flavour and colour of flesh, as 
 this breed does (and who is it that is not fond of turkeys ?). 
 They have remarkably white flesh, nothing can be whiter as 
 a table fowl ; they may not be quite so juicy as a Dorking, 
 but the flavour is quite equal. If care is taken they may be 
 bred to a large fowl, and are what I should call a medium- 
 sized fowl at present. I weighed a pullet this year that 
 turned the scale at 6 Jibs, at seven months old ; that was the 
 largest I ever saw at the age. They have small bones, and 
 comparatively short legs, so there really is no offal about 
 them. Where they have not been bred for size, the ordinary 
 weight is from 4| to slbs. at six or seven months old. The 
 cockerels are much larger, and they would not disappoint 
 any nobleman at the dinner table. They ought to be kept 
 more among all classes of breeders. I am breeding many 
 of them now, as they are not only good in their pure state, 
 but make excellent layers when crossed with any other 
 breed. The eggs from the Minorca hatch out well j 
 cockerels fledge fairly, and pullets fledge very quickly, and 
 are very strong and healthy, easy to rear. They are a very 
 active fowl, and scratch well for a living when they have 
 their liberty, and yet when penned up they are quite con- 
 tented. The plumage of them is very nice ; they are a 
 black fowl, and have a splendid gloss on their plumage, 
 especially the cocks. They have very large single combs. 
 The hens' fall over on one side, and when bred for the show 
 pen are very long, and should be evenly serrated; fine 
 combs, the cocks' standing erect, and evenly serrated, 
 are preferred, not a rough comb. Their faces should be red 
 when they are in full lay, and free from streaks of white. 
 When required for exhibition they ought to carry their tails 
 well out, that is to say, not too upright ; if so, they are called 
 squirrel-tailed. This is also a fault in the show pen — they 
 
BLACK MINORCA PULLET. 
 
57 
 
 should have dark legs, not blue, like those of the Spanish; 
 four toes on each foot, well spread out from each other; 
 white ear-lobes, free from red spots. The cocks should 
 answer to this description in face, ear-lobes, and legs, but 
 the combs should stand very erect ; the straighter they are 
 the better ; and the ear lobes much larger than those of the 
 hens, and should be free from wrinkles as much as possible, 
 and as soft as a kid glove. This breed, like all other breeds 
 that have white ear-lobes and large combs, should be shut 
 up 1 4 days before they are sent to a show ; the place should 
 be so that it can be darkened. Some have shutters to the 
 windows of the house ; this is not always convenient. The 
 coop or pen that the fowl or fowls are put in should be large 
 enough for them to turn round in without rufHing their 
 tails. They ought to be supplied with grit ; the best way is 
 to mix it in their soft food, then there is no doubt about 
 them having it. They should be supplied with dust or nSoss 
 peat — the latter is much better — so that they are kept quite 
 clean, and water by them. A large thin sack or bag can be 
 covered over the front of the pen, or anything of this 
 description, so that the fowls are shaded from the light ; 
 this not only whitens the ear-lobes, but the combs grow very 
 much and usually become very red. They should have 
 green food every day, also a little meat is beneficial to them : 
 it helps the combs, especially the cocks'. 
 
 Sometimes a cockerel will be perfect in every point but 
 his comb, and it will hang over on one side, as it is very fine, 
 and has not strength in itself to stand up ; of course, he will 
 not do for the show pen. Such birds are usually killed, 
 because the owner thinks they are no good. This is a great 
 mistake on the part of many breeders. It is quite a common 
 occurrence to hear breeders say they are the finest birds of 
 the whole number that have been bred by them, and yet no 
 good because the comb is over. These cockerels make the 
 
58 
 
 best pullet-breeders. They produce birds with very fine 
 combs, just those that win in the show pen. They look 
 quite different from pullets that have been bred from a cock 
 that has a good erect-set comb, as many of the pullets bred 
 from the last-mentioned cockerel have heavy, thick combs 
 — what are sometimes called fleshy combs. They are too 
 strong to fall over on one side of the face, so that makes a 
 great part of the comb double over the wrong side of the 
 face, or, rather, come both sides of it. This is a fault in 
 exhibition fowls. If Minorcas are not required for exhi- 
 bition, the comb is no detriment to the cockerels when it 
 hangs over a little on one side, or a streak of white in the 
 face. These little defects are nothing when the fowls are 
 only required for laying and table purposes. The chickens 
 of this breed when hatched are white underneath and black 
 on the upper part. When the feathers begin to grow the 
 black covers the white. Sometimes white feathers remain in 
 them for three months, but they usually shed them before 
 that time. I have not treated upon the white Minorcas, as 
 their points are much the same, only white plumage instead 
 of black. They ought not to have a coloured feather of any 
 kind. The comb, wattles, face, and ear-lobes should be just 
 the same and the legs white. I like black much the best. 
 An active Minorca cock can run with from seven to ten hens 
 of the same breed. 
 
 LEGHORNS. 
 
 Much has been said in favour of this breed the last two 
 years, both as layers and hardy birds. They cannot be 
 spoken too highly of, although they are small. There is not 
 much of them if required for table ; their skin is also rather 
 yellow, and another drawback is- they lay white eggs ; never- 
 theless their good qualities counteract their failings. In the 
 
WHITE LEGHORN COCKEREL. 
 
59 
 
 first place they are very hardy and stand confinement well ; 
 they even thrive in the back yards of towns, and lay all the 
 winter through if properly housed and fed. They are easily 
 reared as chickens, they fledge fast, and mature early. They 
 commence to lay at from four to six months old, although the 
 former age is too early. If they lay under five months old 
 they usually commence to shed their feathers like old hens, 
 but they get over it quickly, and soon come on to lay again. 
 Leghorn chickens may be hatched out from January to 
 August. They do not grow quite so large when hatched in 
 June or July as if they had been earlier. They often lay at 
 Christmas, most of them being in full lay in the month o/ 
 January. 
 
 They are a beautifully-shaped bird, and often take the eye 
 in preference to the larger breeds, as they are very active, 
 and when allowed their liberty they range a long way from 
 home, but do not lay away, as many other breeds do, if they 
 have good accommodation in their roosting-house. 
 
 There are four varieties of this breed, brown, white, black, 
 and cuckoo. I prefer the two former, as when bred from 
 they come more true to colour, and there are more of them 
 kept, so that it is easy to obtain fresh blood. This is very 
 necessary with this breed ; if not, they deteriorate very much 
 and become very small. In former years I found the brown 
 the best layers, but the last two years my white have left the 
 brown a long way behind in the laying qualities ; in fact, I 
 have found them stand my cold place better than any other 
 pure breed. This year my white Leghorns lay a larger egg 
 than the brown, and the hens weigh three-quarters of a pound 
 heavier, some of them over a pound more than the brown. 
 The latter look rather the best in a confined run, as they do 
 not show the dirt. They stand confinement equal to the 
 white. All varieties will do this if necessary. 
 
 The black often throw white feathers in the tail, and their 
 
6o 
 
 ear-lobes are a bad colour (yellow) unless bred from first- 
 class stock. They are excellent layers. 
 
 The cuckoo frequently come a bad colour, especially if 
 they are exporjed to the sun. They often throw a great many 
 brown feathers, especially the cocks. All four varieties 
 should have yellow legs, white ear-lobes and single combs. 
 The cock's should stand very erect and be evenly serrated. 
 The hen's should fall over on one side. The white variety 
 should have no coloured feathers if required for show. 
 
 The cocks of the brown are very handsome, much the 
 colour of a black-breasted red Game cock. The hen's hackle 
 feathers should be well marked, slight brown edged with 
 black. These are the hens to breed from if good-bred fowls 
 are required. 
 
 The egg-table of the Leghorn varies very much, like most 
 other breeds. I know a cottager who keeps fifteen white 
 Leghorns. The average is close on 250 each per bird in a 
 year ; another I know whose birds do not average higher 
 than 120 eggs per bird. There are single specimens which 
 will lay 300 per year, but these are very rare at present. 
 Another pen of white Leghorns, fifteen in number, laid over 
 650 eggs from the ist of November, 1884, to the 28th of 
 February, 1885. I mated some of my cockerels with these 
 hens, and supply the eggs at 6s. 6d. per sitting of thirteen 
 eggs. When I meet with a good-laying pen of birds I 
 always endeavour to keep them up, or even a single fowl, if 
 a good layer. I encourage them to breed from her or buy 
 her myself. 
 
 Leghorns are very fertile fowls and the eggs hatch out 
 well. One cock may run with from eight to ten hens (six 
 in a confined run), and twelve hens are not too many if they 
 have an open run (grass field). They are non-sitters. I 
 prefer them to Hamburghs, because the chickens are much 
 hardier and the eggs are also larger. They give good value 
 
6i 
 
 for their food. This breed ought to be more encouraged in 
 our country. The eggs are about as large as those of the 
 Dorking. 
 
 I can recommend Leghorns as the best breed to keep if 
 only eggs are required for home consumption, either in 
 confinement or in an open range. The white variety is my 
 favourite. This variety keeps more free from disease than 
 any birds I ever kept. 
 
 DORKINGS. 
 
 There are four varieties of this breed, viz., the coloured, 
 silver-grey, cuckoo, and white. /ira-t C" ■€.^f^'f ' 
 
 All four varieties resemble each other in hkving deep, 
 square bodies with broad breasts and short white legs, with 
 five claws on each foot. The comb should be single and 
 evenly serrated in the coloured and silver-grey, while the 
 white and cuckoo should have double ax rose combs. 
 
 The coloured or dark Dorkings are very large birds, the 
 cocks weighing about lolbs. and the hens about 7 or 8 lbs. 
 The cock's breast and tail should be black, the hackle and 
 saddle feathers being striped grey and black ; the upper and 
 lower part of the wing is greyish white, while the middle bar 
 should be black. 
 
 The feathers on the top part of the hen's back should be 
 very dark, each feather showing a light brown stripe in the 
 centre. The breast is of a reddish-brown shade, each 
 feather being just tipped with black at the end. The tail 
 should be black and the hackle feathers striped grey and 
 black. 
 
 The silver-grey resemble the coloured in shape, but are 
 not quite so large. The cock's plumage is also much the 
 same as that of the coloured, but the hackles, &c., are lighter 
 or more of a silvery colour. The hen's back should be of a 
 delicate pale grey, the breast being of a light brown colour — 
 
63 
 
 rather paler than that of a robin — and the hackles striped 
 white and black, appearing very bright. Cuckoo Dorkings 
 are smaller than the coloured, but are very handsome, each 
 feather being a greyish-white tipped with slate at the end. 
 They are rather the best layers of the four varieties, and are 
 often called speckled Dorkings. These resemble the 
 Plymouth Rocks in colour. 
 
 White Dorkings are about the same size as the cuckoo 
 variety, but rather longer in the leg, and they are also rather 
 delicate unless they have a good open range. 
 
 As is generally known, Dorkings carry a large quantity of 
 white meat, and as they are the best birds for table purposes 
 they command the highest prices in the London markets. 
 
 They are not good layers in confinement, and most people 
 find them delicate to bring up, although I have never found 
 any difiiculty in rearing them ; but the chickens do better 
 if they have a good open space with short grass to range 
 over. 
 
 No fowls require the introduction of fresh blood more 
 than Dorkings, and unless a change of blood is frequently 
 brought in it will be found that the eggs and chickens get 
 smaller every year. 
 
 OREVE OCEURS. 
 
 The nature of this breed is much the same as that of 
 Houdans, but the colour is different, Creves being quite black 
 and they are also larger birds, and lay about the same sized 
 eggs as Houdans, but they do not lay such a large number. 
 
 The cocks should weigh about 8 lbs., and have a large comb 
 divided in the middle like two horns j the wattles are long 
 and the top-knot ought to be large, as also the whiskers 
 and bib. The hens are non-sitters and good summer layers ; 
 they have top-knots, &c., the same as the cock, but the 
 
BLACK HAMBURGH COCK. 
 
63 
 
 combs and wattles are much smaller. The legs are blue, with 
 four claws on each. 
 
 Creve Coeurs are not much known in this country, and 
 where they are known are generally preferred for cooking 
 purposes, as they make fine table birds. 
 
 HAMBURGHS. 
 
 There are five varieties of this breed, viz., silver-pencilled, 
 golden-pencilled, silver-spangled, golden-spangled, and 
 black. 
 
 With the exception of black, which only differs in being 
 rather larger, all the varieties of Hamburgh resemble each 
 other in having small white ear-lobes, rose combs ending in a 
 point behind, and small but somewhat plump bodies with 
 blue legs and four claws on each foot. They are also non- 
 sitters. 
 
 In the silver-pencilled the hens are evenly pencilled nearly 
 all over the body, the only part not marked being the hackle 
 feathers, which are almost white. The cocks are nearly 
 pure, white, the exception being the tail, which is black 
 slightly edged with white, the feathers on the lower part of 
 the body between the end of the wings and the thighs, which 
 are evenly pencilled, and some of the wing-feathers, which are 
 slightly touched with black. 
 
 The golden-pencilled are marked in exactly the same 
 way, but with rich brown colouring on the feathers in 
 place of white. 
 
 In the silver-spangled variety the hen should be spangled 
 on the breast, back, saddle, and thighs, the tail and long wing 
 feathers being white with black spots on the ends ; the neck 
 hackles should be striped black and white. The cock's breast 
 is spangled and the hackles and tail white, each tail feather 
 being tipped at the end with black ; back and wings grey 
 
64 
 
 and white with a few dark feathers, the wing being marked 
 with three distinct bars of black. 
 
 The golden-spangled are marked nearly in the same way, 
 but the feathers are coloured rich brown instead of white, 
 the cock's tail being pure black. They are often known 
 as " Moonies," or pheasant birds, especially in the Midland 
 counties. 
 
 GOLD-SPANGLED HAMBURGH COCK. 
 
 The black have pure black feathers, which look almost 
 green in the sun. They appear to have a slight touch of the 
 Spanish build, from which breed they no doubt obtain the 
 extra size. 
 
 Hamburghs are well known on account of their laying 
 qualities. They lay medium-sized white, eggs, which do 
 
65 
 
 not sell well for market. Although small they make fair 
 table fowls, as they are plump and the flesh is white and 
 tender. 
 
 They do best with a large range, but if shut up securely 
 and kept clean they will thrive well in confinement. 
 
 These fowls are largely kept in our country, and still retain 
 their reputation as layers. I have tried them against the 
 Leghorn the last three years, but I must give the Leghorn 
 the preference for several reasons. Firstly, they are much 
 hardier when exposed to the cold and wet ; secondly, they 
 lay better in the winter months, laying larger eggs, which 
 make a better price than the Hamburghs ; thirdly, the 
 chickens are much hardier, and can be reared considerably 
 easier, being much less subject to colds in the winter months, 
 that is, they do not feel the changes in the weather so much. 
 Hamburgh chickens ought not to be brought up with other 
 breeds ; if they are they do not thrive so well. They also 
 ought to be kept from the damp grass early in the morning, 
 and if reared in confinement should be kept very clean. 
 
 SCOTCH GREY. 
 
 This breed is very little known in England, although they 
 are good useful fowls. In Scotland they are very popular, 
 and are thought very much of. The colour is much the 
 same as the Plymouth Rocks, but the markings are finer, and 
 the dark markings of the feathers are of a lighter shade than 
 the Rocks, and the lighter marking not so light. In well- 
 bred Scotch Greys the markings are very even of two shades 
 of grey, one light and the other dark, so that if one single 
 ' feather is examined, it will be found that the bars of light and 
 dark shades run right down to the stem of the feather. The 
 markings are so distinct that many of our English breeders 
 have crossed them with the Plymouth Rocks to get the even 
 markings. It may be noticed, by those who attend Poultry 
 
66 
 
 Shows, that there are two distinct varieties of Plymouth 
 Rocks, one with large bone, especially in the legs, which are 
 long reachy birds with very large frame, the others are more 
 the shape of the Dorking, short legs, with very compact bodies, 
 and the markings are very fine or small. 
 
 The Scotch Greys are very hardy, with fairly short white 
 legs, broad in the breast, skin very white, and may be classed 
 as a good table fowL The chickens grow fast and are very 
 hardy. A few of the cockerels are a little delicate, but this 
 is where they have been bred-in too much. If bred from a 
 good laying strain the pullets will commence laying when 
 from six to seven months old, and make good layers of fair- 
 sized white eggs. They stand confinement fairly well, but 
 do better where they have a good range ; they are good 
 sitters and mothers, and can be crossed with any other 
 variety. If the owners of Scotch Greys wish to increase the 
 number of eggs, and do not mind white shells, the best breeds 
 to use for crossing are Houdan, Minorca, or Leghorn cocks. 
 When crossed with either of these breeds they make excel- 
 lent winter layers, and will produce from thirty to fifty eggs 
 each more than in their pure state in twelve months, and 
 also commence laying earlier. When a Leghorn cock is used 
 many of the pullets commence when five months old. When 
 the Houdan cock is crossed the best table fowls are produced. 
 When the Minorca cock is mated the eggs are a little larger 
 than from the other crosses. When a white Leghorn cock 
 is used most of the pullets come white. If the Houdan, 
 most of them come black, with small top-knots. If the 
 Minorca, sixteen out of twenty come black. The laying 
 results from these crosses are marvellous. If table fowls for- 
 market are required, I recommend the Dorking cock to be 
 crossed, as when this cross reaches the London markets, 
 they are bought up at once, as their legs and skins are so 
 very white. If brown eggs are required^ I recommend a 
 
67 
 
 Langshan or Brahma cock to be used. The two latter are 
 the best, if the situation is very cold or damp, as they will 
 lay when the snow is on the ground ; in fact, if the two latter 
 crosses are hatched out in February, March, or April, they 
 will lay more eggs in October, November, December, Janu- 
 ary, and February, than they will in March, April, May, June, 
 and July. If the birds are required for pheasant-rearing, I 
 prefer the black-breasted red Game cock to be mated with ' 
 the Scotch Greys, as the pullets from this cross are hardy, 
 good winter layers, and are excellent sitters and mothers. If 
 these crosses were tried in the North of Scotland their egg- 
 list would be doubled in the winter. I have had pullets of the 
 Scotch Grey cross commence to lay at five months old. If 
 this breed were only better known in England they would be 
 kept largely, being a favourite fowl in Scotland. 
 
 LA FLEOHE. 
 
 These birds shojild be pure black in colour, and of a 
 fairly good size. The comb is very peculiar, dividing into 
 two distinct and upright pieces a short distance from each 
 other, giving the bird the appearance of having two horns. 
 The legs are slaty-blue and rather long, with four claws on 
 each foot. 
 
 Although the hens are non-sitters, and moderate layers of 
 large white eggs, I should not advice any one to keep this 
 variety, as there are many others more profitable. 
 
 This breed is very subject to roup where the situation is 
 cold or damp. I do not keep a bird of this breed on my 
 place. 
 
 POLISH. 
 
 The three best known varieties of this breed are the golden- 
 sdangled, silver-spangled, and white-crested black. All 
 
 F 2 
 
68 
 
 three varieties resemble each other in having a large crest, 
 and the silver-spangled and golden-spangled also have 
 feathers under the beak, commonly called a "bib." They 
 are moderate-sized birds, and should have short, blue legs, 
 with four claws on each foot. In the golden. spangled the 
 cock's crest should be a bright brown, some of the feathers 
 being tipped with black and white. The hackles and middle 
 of the wing are also brown, the tail being black, edged with 
 brown, and the breast spangled. The hen should be spangled 
 all over, with the exception of the tail and lower part of the 
 wing, which should be brown tipped with black. The silver- 
 spangled are marked in exactly the same way as the golden- 
 spangled, but the feathers are white and black instead of 
 brown and black. 
 
 In the white-crested black the cock and hen should be 
 black all over the body, the crest being pure white. 
 
 Polish are non-sitters and fair layers of moderate-sized 
 white eggs. They thrive best on a sandbank, or in a dry 
 wood, but, although they make very fair birds for table, I 
 do not recommend them, as they are not one of the most 
 profitable breeds to keep. 
 
 Their crests get very dirty and irritate their eyes. They 
 often lose the sight if great care is not bestowed upon 
 them. 
 
 GAME. 
 
 All varieties of this breed resemble each other in having 
 a sharp strong head and neck, .long vigorous legs with four 
 claws on each foot, and broad firm breast, and the general 
 appearance of the bird should be firm and hard, caused by 
 the feathers being very strong and lying close to the body. 
 The comb is single, and of a moderate size, standing erect 
 in both sexes. The cock's comb and wattles are often 
 cut off or " dubbed " when the bird is about four to five 
 
INDIAN GAME COCK. 
 
FRENCH HOUDAN COCK. 
 
 
69 
 
 months old, as they are then less liable to injure themselves 
 should they get fighting. 
 
 There are so many different varieties of Game that to 
 describe all would take too much space, but the most common 
 variety is the black-breasted red, the cock of which should 
 have a black breast and tail, and the lower part of the body 
 should also be black ; the hackle and saddle feathers are of 
 a rich brown-red colour, the upper part of the wing is of a 
 deep red with black edging, the centre part being black and 
 the end a reddish brown, something the same colour as the 
 hackles. The hen's back and wings should be brown, and 
 the under part of the body rather lighter. The hackles are 
 striped black and brown. I find this variety are the best 
 layers. 
 
 Game are fairly good fowls to keep when they have a 
 good range, as they search well for their own living and are 
 very hardy. The hens are poor layers in confinement unless 
 they are bred from a good laying strain, but lay fairly well 
 if they have a good range, and they are also good sitters and 
 mothers, as they will defend their brood against anything 
 but they are spiteful to chickens not their own. 
 
 They make much better table fowls than one would expect, 
 as they are very plump and fit to kill at a moment's notice ; 
 but I should not recommend this breed to anyone desirous 
 of keeping fowls for profit unless they have a wood or a 
 grass field for them to run over, in which case they will> 
 practically, take care of themselves. 
 
 HOUDANS. 
 
 This breed is the most general of the French varieties 
 knovm in this country, and holds about the same position in 
 France as Dorkings do here. They are much the same 
 shape as the Dorkings, and are first-rate table fowls, having 
 
7° 
 
 small bones, short legs, and plenty of very white and rich 
 meat on the breast. They are, however, much better layers 
 than Dorkings, as they produce a large number of fine white 
 eggs in the year, and are also much hardier and stand con- 
 finement fairly well. 
 
 The hens are non-sitters, and should have black feathers 
 tipped with white, the markings being as regular as possible. 
 The cocks weigh from 6 to 8|lbs., and are the same colour 
 as the hens on the breast, but darker on the back, with 
 greenish black feathers in the tail. Both sexes have large 
 top-knots, with feathers round the ears and under the beak, 
 known respectively as the "whiskers" and "bib." The 
 cock has a large comb opening in the middle, and often 
 known as a leaf-comb ; the hen's is the same shape, but much 
 smaller. The legs are short and of a blue colour, with a few 
 white spots, and five claws on each foot. 
 
 ^s will be seen by the above description, Houdans are 
 very\fine fowls to keep for crossing purposes, when a supply 
 is wanted of eggs, and also of chickens for the table. 
 
 OOOHINS. 
 
 All varieties of this breed should have four claws on each 
 foot, and the legs should be of a yellow colour, short, and 
 feathered down to the toes, with a great deal of fluffy 
 feathers on the thigh. Comb single, rather short, and 
 standing erect. Breast appearing very broad, and the genera 
 attitude of the fowls rather leaning forward. The cocks 
 ought to weigh from 7 lbs. to 11 lbs. and the hen from 7 lbs. 
 to 6 lbs. 
 
 The most common colours known are buff, white, and 
 partridge, but black and cuckoo Cochins are frequently 
 met with. I prefer the buff and partridge varieties. 
 
 Buff differ in colour a great deal, some being of a pale 
 
71 
 
 lemon colour, and others much darker, while the cock's 
 feathers are very glossy, being of a rich brown -red colour on 
 the wings and back. 
 
 The white and also the black variety, to be pure, should 
 be free from any feathers other than those of their respective 
 colours. 
 
 PARTRIDGE COCHIN HEN. 
 
 Partridge hens are mottled, something like a partridge but 
 rather darker ; the feathers on the body are pencilled, and 
 those on the neck are black and brown, tinged delicately 
 round the edges with light brown. The cock should have 
 black feathers on the breast and under part of the body, and 
 red on the wing and back. 
 
72 
 
 Cuckoo Cochins are of a pale slate colour, usually known 
 as " speckled ; " they are not so heavily feathered as the 
 other varieties, and no doubt derive their colour and existence 
 from cuckoo Dorkings and Dominique. Cochins are often 
 disliked on account of their being such bad table fowls and so 
 often wanting to sit ; but, in spite of these failings, they are 
 very good fowls to keep for anyone with ohiy a small space, 
 and that cold and damp, as they stand confinement well and 
 are very hardy. I have known disease go through every 
 breed in the poultry-yard with the exception of Cochins, and 
 even Erahmas will take diseases that will not touch Cochins. 
 As chickens, they are hardy, and may be hatched all through 
 the winter, although they fledge very slowly. In breeding, 
 care should be taken to select a young cock, hatched about 
 May, as then they are more active and do not grow so large, 
 and by breeding in this way, as many chickens may be 
 hatched from two broods as would be obtained from four 
 without taking this precaution. 
 
 The best varieties to keep in confinement are buff and 
 partridge, but of the two I advise partridge, as they lay a 
 month earlier than the buff, often laying when six or seven 
 months old, while the buff are often eight months old before 
 commencing. They are first-rate layers, and will lay well in 
 winter, as their feathers being long and strong, they can 
 stand any weather. They lay a good-sized egg, very rich in 
 flavour, the white being thicker and more glutinous than any 
 other fowls', and the colour of the shell being quite brown 
 *hey sell well, and command a good price in any market. 
 
 These birds are also very valuable for crossing, and may 
 be crossed with any other fowls; but I recommend non- 
 sitters, as they are so often broody, and many farmers who 
 have crossed Cochins with Dorkings, to obtain good table 
 birds, have been tormented with broody hens. Care should 
 also be taken in selecting birds to cross with Cochins to 
 
SILVER WYANDOTTE COCK. 
 
73 
 
 choose those with short legs and plenty of breast-meat, or 
 otherwise the half-bred birds will be very lanky. 
 
 Cochins require careful feeding, as, when fed entirely on 
 corn, they will only lay a few eggs, and then become broody, 
 and, although they make good sitters and mothers, they are 
 a nuisance when so often broody ; they are also very liable to 
 feed internally, which, of course, stops their laying, and often 
 causes death by apoplexy. 
 
 WYANDOTTES. 
 
 This is one of the most recent breeds from America, and 
 IS not very popular yet. It is comparatively but little known 
 in our country. Some praise the Wyandottes, while others 
 are disgusted with them. I have found them excellent layers ; 
 there are not many pure breeds to surpass them (if they can 
 be called a pure breed) ; they may, indeed, be classed 
 amongst our best layers. The eggs are brown and rather 
 small — some would call them a medium size — and the fowls 
 themselves are fairly hardy, will stand confinement well, and 
 make fair table birds, as they are short and compact, and 
 very full in the breast. Occasionally a few of the cockerels 
 have yellow skins, which is not in their favour as table birds. 
 The hens make good sitters, and mothers will often lay in 
 the coop before the chickens are three weeks old. If not 
 required for sitting they are easily checked, two days in the 
 broody coop often being sufficient. They will often com- 
 mence to lay before the seven days are up. Those who first 
 brought this breed out ought to have kept them about three 
 years longer, and then they would, no doubt, have been 
 better, as they do not breed true. Doubtless the English 
 breeders will improve this for them, as they have done with 
 many other breeds. A few years' careful breeding will 
 bring them round to a more set colour, as when first hatched 
 
74 
 
 they look like an ordinary mixture, some being black, others 
 brown, a few a mixture of black and white, and others almost 
 grey. Some turn out black when matured, some a greyish 
 black and white, speckled, or between a spangled and 
 pencilled ; the latter are the correct colour. In the hen the 
 breast, back, and wings are more of a spangle, while the 
 under feathers are slightly laced, and at the top of the thighs, 
 the hackles are nicely laced, the middle of the feathers being 
 white, edged all round with black. I call it a laced neck, 
 much the same a.s that of a silver Sebright Bantam. The 
 centre bars of the wing are white, slightly edged with black. 
 Both the cock and hen should have rose combs, rather 
 small, with a peak protruding over the back of the head ; 
 face and ear-lobes are red. The beaks should be strong and 
 of a pale yellow ; legs, bright yellow, free from feathers, 
 with four claws on each foot well spread out from each 
 other ; tails should be black. The cock is much the colour 
 of a dark Brahma cock; the saddle and hackles white 
 evenly striped with black. The back and wings are of a 
 silvery white, slightly edged with black. Many of the cocks 
 come with black breasts, but they should be laced on the 
 breasts very evenly (some use the word " mottled " breast). 
 I do not hesitate in saying they are really a cross between 
 the silver-spangled Hamburgh and dark Brahma. 1 have 
 reasons for stating this, as many of the chickens from this 
 cross come marked exactly the same as the Wyandotte. The 
 first cross between these two breeds comes truer to colour 
 than the Wyandottes do. The second cross — that is, when 
 the silver-spangled Hamburgh and dark Brahma are 
 crossed and their offspring are bred from — do not breed 
 true to colour. (This is the case with most crosses : the 
 first cross usually comes very uniform, but when bred from 
 again they come all different colours.) This cross usually 
 throws a few feathers on the legs, but if the Brahma hen 
 
75 
 
 that is selected for breeding is fairly bare of feathers, many 
 of the offspring do not have a trace of them on their legs. 
 I believe the Wyandottes will be very popular in a few years, 
 as they are good layers. When this breed is mated to pro- 
 duce exhibition birds, or for good marking in the pullets, a 
 cock -with a good mottled breast should be used, and a 
 mixture of white in his fluff feathers. When this colour is 
 selected, well-marked pullets may be expected. It is rather 
 difficult to get a nice-shaped comb with a good peak at the 
 back in the cocks, but it is an important point. 
 
 BLACK SPANISH. 
 
 These birds should have perfectly black plumage and blue 
 legs, with four claws on each foot ; the face should be large 
 and quite white, comb very large, and standing erect in the 
 cocks, but falling over in the hens. 
 
 The general build of the birds is rather slim, and therefore 
 they do not make good table fowls, but are very profitable 
 layers when they have a suitable place, but not, as a rule, 
 when confined, unless well sheltered from the cold north-east 
 winds. Generally they do well when shut up in some of the 
 back gardens of towns, as in these places they are warmer 
 than in the country, and well sheltered from the cold winds, 
 and when properly treated I have known them to pay about 
 300 per cent. ; the chickens, owing to slow fledging, are 
 difliicultto rear, unless a warm situation be provided and care 
 taken ; when crossed they are much hardier, and once 
 fledged they are healthy and strong. Some people say that 
 Spanish chickens are strong and healthy, but my experience 
 differs from this. When I have reared many breeds together, 
 and the others have got on well, the Spanish have drooped 
 their wings and died. As a rule it is not a good plan to 
 
76 
 
 bring different breeds up together, as some require more care 
 than others; but when a number of different breeds are 
 
 SILVKR WYANDOTTE PULLET, 
 
 brought up together on the same treatment, I think it plainly 
 shows which are the hardiest and which are the weakest. 
 
77 
 
 LANQSHANS. 
 
 Though this breed have been so much ridiculed, they are 
 becoming favourites, and will more so when they get better 
 known. They are, indeed, a good all-round fowl for table, 
 hardy to bring up, splendid layers of a brown egg , which is 
 saleable everywhere, good birds to breed from, excellent 
 sitters and mothers, stand confinement well, do not show the 
 dirt, and are good foragers if they have their liberty. They 
 have a beautiful green-black gloss on their plumage. A 
 black fowl is much easier to breed from than any other colour. 
 There is in the Langshan what is wanted, viz., laying and 
 table qualities combined and also a handsome fowl. If 
 breeders would only keep to the best layers and make this a 
 special point of compass, it would be a grand thing. The 
 Kocks at the present time are the most fashionable breed, 
 though Langshans are much easier to breed. The beautiful 
 brilliant gloss upon their plumage is quite different from a 
 black Cochin, though they are mixed up a great deal. 
 
 The Langshan has much more tail than the Cochin, and 
 has black legs slightly feathered down to the outside toe, 
 not the middle one, which should be quite free from feathers. 
 The thick fluff (vulture hocked) is a fault with them, especi- 
 ally the cocks. These are rather long in the leg, and should 
 be broad in the chest, and should carry themselves very 
 erect. Their combs should be evenly serrated and erect, the 
 hens the same, but sometimes the latter's incline to one side 
 (this is not a serious fault), and should also have very red 
 ear-lobes. They often have a few white feathers on their 
 feet; this ought to be bred out, although they are often 
 passed thus in the show-pen. They should have four toes on 
 each foot. Sometimes the male bird throws a few red feathers 
 on the neck and saddle. 
 
78 
 
 If the cock is a very active bird he can run with from 
 seven to nine hens in a confined run, or in a large range 
 (grass field), ten or twelve hens, and, as a rule, eleven eggs 
 out of thirteen will be fertile. 
 
 If breeding for exhibition, run less hens, when for this 
 purpose they are much heavier, and it is not well to run 
 more than five or six hens. The pullets fledge moderately 
 well, the cockerels rather backward, but aU are very 
 hardy. If they are required for table they ought to be 
 killed when from three to four months old, or from- six to 
 seven months old. At the latter age they are like young 
 turkeys. 
 
 I am so pleased with them and the Rocks that I shall use 
 both breeds for crossing purposes in preference to the Brahma 
 or Cochin, as they both make better table birds when crossed, 
 and the laying qualities are equal. I breed very largely from 
 Langshans and Rocks, both pure and crosses. The Langshan 
 chickens when hatched are black on the back and a whitish- 
 yellow the underneath part. The first feathers sometimes 
 come tipped with white, but these pass away in the first 
 moult. 
 
 BRAHMAS. 
 
 There are two varieties of this breed — ^viz., the light and 
 dark. Both are of large size, and should have a broad sub- 
 stantial appearance. The cocks weigh from 8^ to lo lbs. 
 and the hens from 7 to 9 lbs. The legs are yellow, rather 
 short, and well feathered down to the tip of the middle claw. 
 The comb should be small and set close to the head, and is 
 what is called a pea or triple comb, having the appearance 
 of being cut down or rounded-off, like three small peas, the 
 centre one being the largest. 
 
 In light Brahmas the plumage of the cocks and hens 
 should be of a white colour all over, with the exception of 
 
79 
 
 the hackle feathers, which are striped grey and black, and 
 the tail feathers, which are black slightly edged with white. 
 The hen should have a white body and black and white 
 hackles. 
 
 In dark Brahmas, the cock's breast, tail, leg feathers, and 
 under part of the body, should be pure black. The upper 
 part of the wing is of a greyish-white, the centre being black, 
 and lower part white, tipped at th^ end with black. The 
 hackle, back, and saddle feathers are of a greyish white and 
 black. The hen's hackle feathers should be black and white, 
 the tail being black, and the remainder of the body a slaty 
 colour, each feather on the breast, upper part of the wing, 
 and back, being marked with a darker slate, giving the bird 
 the appearance of being beautifully pencilled. 
 
 Brahmas are very good fowls to keep for confinement, as 
 they are very hardy, and do well in a small space. They 
 are good layers of brown eggs in the winter months ; but in 
 spring and summer they are often broody, and, as they 
 make good sitters and mothers, it is often well for people 
 who keep non-sitting varieties and wish to hatch a few 
 chickens to keep a few Brahmas, as they may then be sure 
 of a broody hen sooner or later. 
 
 If this breed is especially bred for laying only, they are 
 excellent layers. I have known them lay from, 130 to 170 
 eggs each in twelve months, while the show Brahmas 
 have not averaged 40 each. A good laying strain of this 
 breed will come up to the Rocks and also the Langshans ; 
 they will lay from 30 to 40 eggs without missing a day. I 
 have known several specimens not to come broody the whole 
 of the year. They do not make as good table birds as the 
 Rocks and Langshans when they are pure, but are equal for 
 crossing purposes. The Brahmas breed so much better than 
 the Cochins ; eleven eggs out of thirteen are usually fertile, 
 where not more than six out of the same number of Cochins 
 
8o 
 
 would produce chickens. This is a consideration. It is 
 more difficult to get good layers from the dark variety than 
 the light. I have been years in procuring a good laying- 
 strain of dark Brahmas, and did not succeed until 1884. 
 They have laid all through the past winter, and some months 
 have produced more eggs than the Rocks and Langshans. 
 Notwithstanding this, I prefer the above breeds. If Brahmas 
 are bred for laying »nly, they do not disappoint their 
 keepers ; if they average 1 10 per bird that is what may be 
 called very good ; it depends much upon the treatment they 
 receive. When they become broody and are not required 
 for sitting purposes, they ought to be shut up at once in the 
 coop mentioned ; then they lay again in a few days. The 
 Brahma is a good fowl to cross with other breeds. Looking 
 over my egg-book, I find that some of my dark Brahmas 
 have laid 170 eggs each from the ist of October to the 
 middle of September. 
 
 REDCAPS. 
 
 This breed is a very old one, though but little known in 
 many parts of the country. They are best known in York- 
 shire, Derbyshire, and Staffordshire. In Yorkshire the 
 farmers call them mooney fowls, and in StaflEordshire pheasant 
 fowls. I have known better layers from the latter place than 
 either of the others. I have tried all three. I have found 
 them a good breed as layers of a fair-sized white egg. One 
 pullet has been known to lay 70 eggs in severity days. The 
 strains differ very much. They do rather better in an open 
 range than in confinement, although they do fairly well any- 
 where when once matured. They are rather delicate to rear 
 in confined back gardens, and where they are attempted to 
 be brought up with large numbers of other chickens they 
 usually succumb to an early death. If only a brood or two 
 
8i 
 
 are required, and a little care is bestowed upon them the first 
 three or four weeks, they will grow and feather well, both 
 cockerels and pullets, and make fair table birds, white skin 
 and blue legs, with four toes on each foot, free from feathers 
 on legs and feet. In plumage they* are much the colour of 
 the golden-spangled Hamburgh. They are a reddish-brown 
 with a tip of black, a kind of half moon. The Hamburghs 
 are more of a spangle and also much brighter in colour, and 
 have smaller combs. Redcaps should have red ear-lobes and 
 very large rose combs. When the chickens are hatched out 
 they are of a light buff colour underneath, and they have two 
 stripes on the back, light and dark brown. They occasion- 
 ally come rather buff, and only show a dark stripe at the 
 back of the head, and others are almost black. They are 
 very pretty as chickens. The cockerels can be told from 
 the pullets when hatched, or at least in a week or two, as 
 they have such a large comb. The cockerels are ready for 
 the table when about four months old if fed and attended to 
 well. 
 
 ANDALUSIAN. 
 
 This breed is a favourite with some fanciers, and also those 
 who only require eggs. The colour of their plumage is 
 different from any other variety, being slate colour. When 
 the hens are properly marked they are very handsome. The 
 ground colour is rather a light slate, each feather edged with 
 a very dark shade. They look as though they are pencilled- 
 The neck hackles are very much darker than the body, white 
 ear-lobes, red face, single combs lying over on one side, dark 
 legs rather a blue-slate, four toes on each foot. The cock 
 has face and ear-lobes similar to the hen, comb single and 
 should stand erect and be evenly serrated and well set to the 
 head. Their back should be dark, almost black, and the 
 breast more the colour of the hen. Andalusians do not breed 
 
 G 
 
S2 
 
 trae to colour ; some come black and others white, and a 
 few a very light slate with no dark marking. Those who 
 do not understand the breed, when buying a sitting of eggs, 
 must not be surprised if three or four diflferent coloured 
 chickens are produced. They are excellent layers of large 
 whitfi^SfiS' I^ ths '■''f'^s "are sheltered from the cold winds 
 they will lay in the winter, and spring and summer months in 
 abundance. The chicks do fairly well, the pullets thriving 
 best and also feathering better than the cockerels. They 
 usually commence to lay at from five to six-and-a-half months 
 old. One cock can run with seven or eight hens. 
 
BLACK ROSE-COMB BANTAMS. 
 
IF ■■ '■ ■» ' ' ' JJ__iJ " " ' r.- ■■-'— - 
 
 P ■■ ' ■ 
 
 '■ '^ 
 
 BANTAMS. 
 
 THESE small birds are often looked upon as useless 
 by many, and even those who keep the larger breeds- 
 The day of small things should not be despised, as 
 small beginnings often produce large endings. There are 
 many large breeders of the present day who only commenced 
 with a pair of Bantams, and trace their success and love of 
 poultry to their parents keeping these pets. I think it so 
 nice to allow a boy or girl to keep a few fowls ; and 
 Bantams can be kept where the larger breeds cannot. 
 Young people must have something to do in their spare 
 time ; and if parents do not find it for them, they will for 
 themselves, and not always in the best direction. It would 
 be well for parents to study their children a little more in 
 this respect. It gives the young people a love for their 
 home, whether the pets are fowls, pigeons, or rabbits. I 
 have kept all three, and the former not only gave me as 
 much pleasure in looking after them, but also paid for their 
 
 G 2 
 
84 
 
 food, and a little over. I always had an eye to pleasure 
 and profit combined. Bantams usually give young people 
 a great deal of pleasure. There are many people keep 
 them all their lives, and make a study of them. If one 
 cockerel and pullet are purchased, they will soon breed a 
 pen of birds. A dog-kennel, or large box, will serve as a 
 roosting house. A 4-feet square house is large enough for 
 about twenty The game Bantams are kept more than any 
 variety, especially the black-breasted reds. 
 
 The Duckwing and Pile are favourites with many. The 
 colour of them should be much the same as the Game 
 fowls of these varieties. If persons are desirious of keeping 
 good specimens, it is well for them to go to a good show, 
 or to where the best Bantams can be found. Mr. Entwistle 
 is one of the cleverest gentlemen in the Bantam fancy that 
 I know. He breeds some of the best birds in England, 
 Any fancier wishing to obtain good Bantams cannot do 
 better than apply to him. They will have their money's 
 worth, and will be well suited. He is not only one of the 
 best breeders, but also one of the best judges of all 
 varieties. I believe he keeps almost every variety. It is 
 well to prepare Bantams for the show pen, especially the 
 black rose comb. This variety requires great care. Refer 
 to the chapter on " Preparation for the Show Pen." 
 
 BLACK ROSE-OOMB. 
 
 This breed is rapidly spreading through our country, and 
 is becoming one of the favourites in the Bantam fancy. 
 They are my favourites, as they are not only a very pretty 
 little bird, but such good layers and very hardy. Being 
 black they do not show the dirt when kept in the back 
 yards of towns. There are many of our leading fanciers 
 who first started by keeping a pair of these birds. I always 
 
85 
 
 like to encourage young people in keeping these pets. 
 This breed should have nothing but black feathers, with a 
 splendid gloss on their plumage, especially the male birds. 
 Both sexes should have a neat rose comb, red face free 
 from spots or streaks of white, and small white ear-lobes 
 free from wrinkles and red spots, black legs, four toes on 
 each foot. The cock should be very full in the breast. 
 The smaller they are the better if they are compact and 
 well-shaped. Where so many make a mistake in breeding 
 Bantams, they hatch them out too early in the season. li 
 they are not required for the show pen until November, 
 May or early June is the best time to hatch them out If 
 for the summer shows, they may be hatched out early. The 
 smallest Bantams I ever bred were hatched in the month 
 of September. I have found this variety the best layers of 
 any Bantams, and also of the largest egg according to the 
 size of the bird. They can be kept in a very small pen if 
 required. One male bird may run with about four or six 
 hens. In all cases where they have not a grass run they 
 ought to be supplied with green food. Nothing is better 
 than watercresses if they can be procured reasonably. The 
 chickens hatch out strong. When first hatched they are 
 black on the back and a light colour underneath. Occa- 
 sionally they throw white feathers in their wings, but usually 
 shed them in their chicken moult. 
 
CROSS-BRED FOWLS. 
 
 BEFORE proceeding to give some description of cross- 
 bred fowls, I wish to make it quite plain what they 
 really are, for I often hear mongrels called cross-breds. 
 What is called a first cross is a bird obtained when two 
 pure-bred fowls of different varieties are bred together, say 
 a Dorking and Game, and if their offspring are crossed 
 again, the chickens may be called a second cross. If first- 
 cross hens are bred from, with a pure cock, the progeny are 
 called a second cross. Say a hen crossed between a Rock 
 and Langshan, if mated with a Dorking cock her offspring 
 have three breeds in them, half Dorking, a quarter Langshan, 
 and a quarter Plymouth Rock, and if these are bred from 
 again their progeny may properly be called mongrels. 
 
 The question is often asked, why we do not breed from 
 cross-bred cockerels ? The principal reasons are— ist, the 
 chickens obtained eat a great deal more ; and 2nd, they 
 do not lay so early by six weeks or two months, and al- 
 
88 
 
 together do not show such good qualities as the first crosses ; 
 but, of course, there are exceptions. I have proved that 
 first crosses are best by running a cock with pure and cross- 
 bred hens all shut up together ; have saved eggs from each 
 hen, hatched the chickens, at the same time brought them 
 up together and treated all alike, and the first cross have 
 laid before they were six months old, while the chickens 
 obtained from the cross-bred hens, but with the same cock, 
 did not lay until they were seven or eight months old ; and 
 although they laid as well as the others when they did 
 commence, there was the loss of two months, which is a 
 great consideration, especially in w'nter, when the price of 
 eggs is so good. 
 
 There are many opinions as to the advisability of breed- 
 ing and keeping cross-bred fowls, for while one eminent 
 author will write, " Cross your fowls as much as possible ; 
 you cannot have too many breeds mixed," another will say, 
 •' Pure-bred fowls are best, as, while some of them average 
 170 to 200 eggs per bird in the year, cross-breds will only 
 lay 80 to 120 in the same time." My experience is that 
 first-cross bred fowls are much the best for general purposes, 
 and I recommend them, as a rule, in preference to the 
 pure-bred ones. If a pure hen will lay from 120 to 130 
 eggs in a year, and she is mated with a pure cock of another 
 breed, and he has bean bred from a hen which laid about 
 the same number in the time, the offspring will produce 
 from 150 to 1 90 e^gs in a year, for, in a cross, there are 
 the qualities of two pure-bred fowls together ; for instance, 
 in half-bred Hamburghs and Cochins, there is part of the 
 hardiness and size of the Cochin, and part of the plumpness, 
 non-sitting, and wonderful laying qualities of the Hamburghs; 
 and, besides this, cross-breds are generally larger and hardier, 
 on account of fresh blood being introduced. I do not wish 
 to run down piure fowls in any way, for without them, of 
 
89 
 
 course, no cross could be produced; but I do most de- 
 cidedly prefer a half-bred for purposes of laying, &c., and 
 have, therefore, written fully on some of the principal 
 crosses I have tried. 
 
 There are, of course, many I have not mentioned, but I 
 have written on those I consider best. For instance, if it is 
 more convenient, a Leghorn or Minorca cock may be used 
 instead of Hamburgh or Spanish, or Creve Coeur in place 
 of Houdan, or Brahma in place of Cochin, &c. 
 
 The La Fleche may be crossed with any of the breeds I 
 have mentioned, but they do best with Dorldng or Ham- 
 burgh. Malays are also another good breed, and, if crossed 
 with the Brahma, produce excellent layers and sitters well 
 suited for confinement. 
 
 If anyone has a curiosity for crossing, and still wishes to 
 retain their pure-bred fowls, they may easily do so by letting 
 two pure hens run with a cock of the same breed and four 
 more of a different kind. I may mention that a Houdan 
 cock, with two Houdan, two Spanish, and two Cochin hens, 
 answer very well, and that it is always best when crossing 
 non-sitters to have a Cochin or Brahma, to be sure of a 
 broody hen for sitting in the spring. 
 
 The number of eggs I have given as being produced by 
 certain crosses may seem very large, but it must be under- 
 stood that it is only birds bred from the very best laying 
 strains that will produce these numbers ; and great attention 
 must, of course, be paid to their feeding and management. 
 Amateurs must, therefore, not be discouraged if their birds 
 do not produce any such numbers for the first year or two. 
 Those, however, who give attention to the birds, and follow 
 my instructions, will find an increase in the number of eggs 
 they obtain every year. 
 
 I have known fowls lay from loo to 275 eggs in a year. 
 It is according to the laying strains, and how they are 
 
90 
 
 treated. The owner must have practical knowledge, and 
 this is obtained by closely watching the habits of the fowls. 
 It is usually those who are fondest of their fowls that 
 succeed the best in the end. A book may be a great help 
 and guide, but this will not do all that is required in the 
 poultry yard. 
 
 HOUDAN-OOOHIN. 
 
 For many years Dorkings have been crossed with Cochins 
 with very good results, with the exception of being inferior 
 layers in the summer, as they become broody so Often. I have 
 found it best to cross Cochins with the French Houdan, as 
 this breed possesses most of the good qualities of Dorkings, 
 such as small bones, short legs, plenty of very white and 
 rich meat, especially on the breast, and are plump when 
 cooked. The best way of crossing is to run a Houdan 
 cock with from six to eight Cochin hens, and if the cock is 
 an active bird nearly all the eggs will be fertile. The 
 chickens from this cross will hatch out well and fledge 
 quickly, especially the pullets, but occasionally there may 
 be a cockerel rather naked, but not for long ; they are very 
 hardy, and will do well in cold or wet weather, while, as a 
 rule, chickens cannot stand wet weather ; but I have reared 
 these chickens from a week old, and have not lost more 
 than one chick in three years, although they had never been 
 inside the hen-house, or had a shed to protect them from 
 wet and cold at night, until a short time before laying. They 
 make good table birds, often being ready to kill when three 
 months old, and are then plump and of good flavour, the 
 skin on the body being very white. Most of the pullets are 
 black, but a few have brown bodies and are spangled on 
 the breast ; generally they have white legs, but there are 
 a few with dark, and some a bronze colour like those of 
 
9' 
 
 Game fowls. The hens lay fi ne epfgs. generally browri^ that 
 will command a good price in any market. They do well 
 in confinement or with a large run, are very healthy, and I 
 have never had them suffer from anything except cramp, 
 which was caused by their laying so much in cold weather ; 
 but have known this cross suffering from cramp, and yet 
 not miss laying more than a day or so. I have had from 
 two to five eggs dropped in one night from fifteen hens. 
 Altogether these are capital fowls to keep, and may be 
 classed as one of the best for confinement. 
 
 I first tried this cross in the year 1874 and hatched six 
 pullets on the 4th March, one of which laid at the age oi 
 four months and three weeks ; this, of course, is not the 
 rule, but the others all laid before they were six months old, 
 which is about the average age for these birds to commence 
 laying, although, if well fed, they will lay a fortnight before 
 this time. I kept these six hens for two years, and during 
 the whole of that period I do not think I was more than a 
 day without one or two eggs, as there were never more than 
 three resting at the same time. One hen laid 263 eggs in 
 eleven months and one day. In the winter months of both 
 years they averaged 26 eggs per week, some weeks as many 
 as 33 or 34, others 22 to 25. In December, January, and 
 February they averaged 2 7 eggs per week, but after this not 
 so many, as they wanted to sit. The first year some laid 
 while moulting, which is very unusual for any fowls to do. 
 In the whole year the six hens laid about 1,360 eggs, and 
 brought up four broods of chickens, each hen laying when 
 the chicks were about three weeks old ; and if I allow a 
 loss of say 20 eggs to each bird while sitting, &c, this would 
 bring the number of eggs produced in a year to 1,440, or an 
 average to each bird of 240 eggs, most of which were laid 
 from September to February. The birds were sold when 
 two and a-half years old, and the average weight was then 
 
92 
 
 6|lbs. I may mention that these birds were kept in a run 
 about 7 yards square 
 
 The preceding remarks refer to the buff Cochin and 
 Houdan cross, but I advise partridge Cochins being used 
 for crossing, as they are the best for the table and com- 
 mence laying earlier ; they are also shorter in the leg, with 
 broader breasts. I may add that the chickens are usually 
 black, whichever variety of Cochin may be used, and that I 
 recommend hali-bred Houdan and partridge Cochins as 
 one o: the best fowls to keep for all general purposes. If 
 mongrel-bred lowls are kept, and the owner does not wish to 
 part with them, it is well to use a Houdan cock with them. 
 The pullets obtained from this cross make very good winter 
 layers, and some are good sitters. The cockerels are first- 
 class table birds, and should be killed when about three or • 
 four months old. The chickens are very healthy, grow 
 fast, and can be hatched out early if required. The 
 Houdan cock being used as mentioned, brings the off- 
 spring o: a uniform shape and colour, and destroys the 
 mongrel appearance altogether. The Houdan-Brahma 
 cross are about the same in every respect if bred from a 
 good laying straia They do not vary five eggs in twelve 
 months from the Houdan-Cochin. They cannot be dis- 
 tinguished one from the other, especially the pullets. They 
 are equal both in laying and table qualities. 
 
 HOUDAN-MINOROA. 
 
 The birds to produce this cross can be mated either way. 
 I prefer the Houdan cock, as the eggs are more fertile when 
 crossed th's way. Houdan hens having a crest and beard, 
 are often a little timid, as they cannot see behind them, 
 neither side face. Owing to this, rather a large proportion 
 of the eggs are unfertile. If the Minorca cock is used, six 
 
93 
 
 Houdan hens are sufficient ; if the Houdan cock with 
 Minorca hens, eight or ten, and in many cases twelve hens 
 are not too many if they have a good range. The eggs are 
 very fertile from this cross. The chickens when hatched 
 are dark or black on back, and yellowish-white underneath. 
 The heads are usually black and white, and show a small 
 top-knot and beard ; they are fairly strong, fledge well, and 
 grow fast. Most of the pullets come black, and make good 
 sized fowls ; they have blue legs. The cockerels usually 
 have coloured feathers in their hackles and saddles, a kind 
 of straw colour. They require to be removed from the 
 pullets at an early age — about three months — as they become 
 rather troublesome. They make very fair table fowls ; 
 certainly not large, but the meat is of a superior flavour and 
 very white ; not a popular fowl for the market, unless 
 hatched early and sold as spring chickens, then they make 
 a good price, as they are very plump and have not much 
 bone. This cross is noted for the size of the eggs, as they 
 lay one of the finest of any cross. The Minorca-La Fleche 
 lay about the same size, but not so many in number. They 
 are eggs, t hat always command a good price in the market, 
 notwithstanding they are white. A few of these mixed with 
 smaller ones is often the means of obtaining a longer price 
 for the small ones. Where fowls are kept for the purpose 
 of selling eggs, I recommend some birds of this cross to be 
 kept. In the number of eggs they differ very much ac- 
 cording to the strain, from 105 to 220 ; I put the average 
 down at 150 eggs per bird per annum. I have had them 
 lay 240 in a year, but these are exceptions and not rules. 
 They will stand confinement well, and lay all through the 
 winter months, especially if they can be sheltered from the 
 cold wind. They are very active and want employment. 
 They are fowls that will suit all classes of people, in town 
 or country. They are non-sitters, but occasionally there is 
 
94 
 
 one that will want to sit, but they cannot be depended 
 upon. As non-sitters I recommend Houdan-Leghorns and 
 Houdan-Minorcas, especially where only eggs are required. 
 Both are good foragers, hardy, and easy to rear, and good 
 layers. 
 
 HOUDAN-PLYMOUTH ROOK. 
 
 I have tried this cross against the Houdan-Cochin and 
 Houdan-Brahma as layers, and the result is about an equal 
 number of eggs of about the same colour, but for table fowls 
 the Houdan-Plymouth Rock is far superior. They are 
 clean-legged, with very fine breasts of a good flavour, and 
 may be classed with the best table fowls in the market. 
 Many of the legs come white, a few a dark bronze colour. 
 They hatch out well, grow fast, fledge quickly, are remark- 
 ably hardy, and will stand confinement or do well in an open 
 range. They stand the cold east winds well. The pullets 
 lay when from six to seven months old ; some are in full lay 
 at six months. Where fowls are required for laying and table 
 purposes, I know of no better class to keep, as they are a 
 good saleable fowl. They can be hatched all the year round 
 if required. They make splendid spring chickens, especially 
 if short-legged fowls are used for breeding. It is the best to 
 use the Houdan cock with from seyen to nine Rock hens. 
 If the Houdan cock is a large and active bird, from ten to 
 twelve hens are not too many. If closed in a back yard 
 with no extra run, six hens are sufficient When the chickens 
 are first hatched they are of a yellowish-white underneath 
 and round the head, and dark on the back. Occasionally 
 there is a grey spot at the back of the head as on the pure 
 Rock. If a Rock male bird is used, many of the chickens 
 will grow up the colour of a Rock. The other way they 
 are dark and sometimes black. The pullets are a splendid 
 shape and very handsome. They have the little crest on the 
 
93 
 
 head, and many of them a small beard. About fi\e out of 
 every twelve become broody. They make good sitters and 
 mothers, as they are very strong in the wing. 
 
 Many of the eggs a re tinted j a few. are quite brown . I 
 strongly recommend this cross ; the owners will not be 
 disappointed with them. 
 
 HOUDAN-LEGHORN. 
 
 For a non-sitting cross this cannot be surpassed in number 
 of eggs and hardiness of fowl. Houdan-Minorca lay a 
 larger egg, but not so many in number. They can be 
 brought up in small backyards, and will grow fast and feather 
 well, giving but little trouble. They are remarkably active 
 as chickens ; when first hatched they are black on back and 
 yellowish-white underneath, and usually show a small top- 
 knot. The cockerels ought to be killed off early, as they 
 become very troublesome when they are from twelve to 
 fifteen weeks old. If kept longer they ought to be separated 
 from the pullets. They do not make large table fowls, but 
 are very plump, have small bones, and the flesh is very 
 white and juicy. I do not recommend them as a market 
 table fowl, unless it is for early spring chickens, when they 
 are not required so large. They stand the cold weather, 
 very well, and are ready for the table earlier than the large 
 breeds. Some of the pullets commence to lay very early, 
 sometimes at four months old. This is rather too early, as 
 if they commence when from five to six months old it is 
 better for them, and the eggs are larger. These are w^ite. 
 of a medium size, a little larger than a Dorking's. Most of 
 the pullets come black, and if brown Leghorn hens are 
 used, some have brown hackles ; if white hens are mated 
 one occasionally comes white. They are very compact 
 fowls, and will work well for their living when they have an 
 
96 
 
 opportunity. They fly if they have their liberty, but if 
 brought up in a wire pen they are very contented. Where 
 eggs are required all the year round I strongly recommend 
 this cross, as they will not disappoint their keepers. If 
 bred from a good laying strain they often lay 200 eggs each 
 in a year, when kept in confined runs. They, of course, 
 vary very much according to how they are managed. The 
 average is about 1 70 eggs each per annum. Some speci- 
 mens have laid over 260 eggs in twelve months. The eggs 
 from Leghorn hens with Houdan cocks running with them 
 hatch remarkably well, very seldom less than nine chickens, 
 out of thirteen eggs, and in many cases twelve. Leghorn 
 hens are very good to breed from. It is much the best to 
 run a Houdan cock with these hens ; from seven to ten of 
 the latter to one male bird, but if he is very vigorous, twelve 
 hens may safely run with him For those who only require 
 eggs, and especially if only for home consumption, a more 
 profitable cross cannot be kept, if they can be sheltered 
 from the cold east winds a little, and something given them 
 to scratch to keep them employed. The egg production is 
 marvellous, and if six hens in their second year and six 
 pullets can be kept, the owner would never be without eggs 
 in the cold, dark days of winter. This cross can be hatched 
 very late in the season when it is necessary. July and 
 August hatched chickens will often lay by Christmas. This 
 cross ought to be named the " Amateur's Friend," consider- 
 ing their good qualities, as they hatch out well, are very 
 hardy as chickens, can be reared in small back yards, grow 
 fast, fledge well, lay early and constantly, and cannot well 
 be put in the wrong, place. If they are allowed their liberty 
 they travel a long distance, but seldom lay away from home. 
 This is one of the crosses I recommend to those about to 
 start poultry-keeping, and to any who cannot spare much 
 time in looking after their birds. If a breeding-pen have 
 
97 
 
 the advantage of a grass run, the eggs are moie fertile, and 
 a larger number of hens can be allowed with the mala 
 birds. 
 
 HOUDAN-SPANISH. 
 
 This cross is so much like the Houdan-Minorca, when 
 the birds are grown up, that they cannot be distinguished. 
 The laying qualities ar.d size of eggs are much the same. 
 The chickens are not quite so strong when hatched, and do 
 not fledge so fast, especially the cockerels. The chickens 
 hatch much stronger from the Houdan hens than from the 
 Spanish. Not more than six Houdan hens should be 
 allowed to run with the Spanish cock ; but if the Spanish 
 hens are used, the same number may be allowed to run with 
 the Houdan cock as in the Houdan-Minorca cross. It 
 may happen some have Spanish hens and not Minorcas ; in 
 this case use them; the result of eggs from the pullets will 
 be about the same, and the chickens same colour. 
 
 HOUDAN-ANDALUSIAN. 
 
 This cross produce the same results as regards the laying 
 qualities, and size and shape of fowl, but some differ in 
 colour, as many of the chickens are of a slate colour when 
 hatched, the pullets more particularly; they are blue or 
 slate colour when grown, and are called a smoke colour by 
 some. It is a matter of fancy of colour with some people. 
 The quality of this cross is the same as Houdan-Spanish 
 and Houdan-Minorca. 
 
 HOUDAN-HAMBURGH. 
 
 This cross is a very good one, as the birds can be reared 
 in small runs. They are hardy and good layers, and as a 
 
98 
 
 non-sitting cross are very short in the leg. They are com- 
 pact fowls, rather small, and not good for market purposes. 
 The majority have black bodies and occasionally straw- 
 coloured hackles, with a small Crest. I have had birds of 
 this cross lay over 200 eggs each per year. A Hamburgh 
 cock can run with five Houdan hens, or a small Houdan 
 cock with nine Hamburgh hens. They can be crossed 
 either way, it making no difference in the laying qualities. 
 I prefer the Houdan-Leghorn cross, as they are much the 
 best 
 
 HOTTDAN-DORKING. 
 
 The best way of crossing is to run a Houdan cock with 
 ten Dorking hens, and twelve out of thirteen eggs will be 
 fertile ; in selecting the Houdan cock for breeding, choose 
 one with but little black on the legs. The chickens may be 
 bred all the year round, as they hatch out well, are very 
 hardy, and fledge quickly, not one being naked in a whole 
 brood ; they pay well for good attention the first fortnight, 
 but after that they grow very fast, and make first-class table 
 birds, being quite equal to the Game and Dorking cross in 
 this respect. The cockerels may be killed at any time after 
 they are eleven weeks old, but are better if shut up for twelve 
 days before killing, although I have killed them at eleven to 
 twelve weeks old, and they have been fine and plump. 
 
 The hens are mostly black, very large, short in the leg, 
 and full of breast-meat A few will have dark legs. They 
 are good layers all the year round of very largg white e^s. 
 As a rule, they commence to lay at six months old, but I 
 have hatched them in the beginning of March, and had two 
 laying at the age of five months ; about half will become 
 broody, and these make good sitters and mothers. 
 
 Taking all their qualities into consideration, I do not 
 
99 
 
 think there is a better cross for the farmer or gentleman with 
 plenty of room, or a cottager that has a good sale for his 
 young chickens and eggs and a large space for the birds to 
 range about, and I can also recommend them to any one 
 requiring good table birds and large eggs. 
 
 I may add that from lo to 25 per cent, more is realised 
 from these birds than from pure Dorkings. If any one keep- 
 ing pure Dorkings would like to try this cross, he can do 
 so by allowing a Houdan cock to run with the Dorkings. 
 
 HOUDAN-LANGSHAN. 
 
 This cross is so very similar to the Houdan- Cochin and 
 Houdan-Brahma in every respect, that I do not think I need 
 treat fully upon them. The laying qualities of each are the 
 same. There is a slight difference in the Langshan cross 
 having a little more meat on the breast. They may be pre- 
 ferred as a table bird, but in this quality there is only a 
 trifling superiority. I can strongly recommend them as 
 hardy fowls which will stand confinement well. The qualities 
 of this cross can be seen in the description of the Houdan- 
 Cochin, they being so much alike. The pullets of each 
 cross cannot be distinguished. I have no preference for 
 either of the three above-mentioned crosses. 
 
 HOUDAN- WYANDOTTE. 
 
 As Wyandotte hens are very expensive, it is best to allow 
 the Wyandotte cock to run with Houdan hens, as the cross 
 can then be obtained much cheaper. Seven hens may be 
 allowed to run with the male bird. When crossed in this 
 way, the chickens usually come dark brown, especially round 
 the head. If the Houdan cock is used they come black on 
 the back and white underneath, much the same as other 
 
 H 2 
 
Houdan crosses. They are excellent layers of fair-sized 
 _eggs_but most of them dnted . They hatch out well, grow 
 fast, and fledge quickly. They are not such good table 
 birds as the Houdan-Rocks, neither is the egg quite so 
 large. In other respects they are about the same, but a 
 little shorter in the leg. The pullets are very compact 
 fowls. A few of them come broody, but as a rule cannot 
 be depended on. I am very fond of the Houdan-Wyandotte 
 cross. 
 
 HOUDAN-GAME. 
 
 This cross may be produced by running a cock of either 
 breeds. . The best results are obtained when the Houdan 
 male bird is used, as a rule. From ten to twelve hens may 
 be allowed to run with either male bird, providing the fowls 
 have a good range. The chickens hatch out well, are 
 remarkably hardy, fledge and grow very quickly They 
 have a great deal of breast meat, and can be killed any time 
 after they are about twelve weeks old. They do not often 
 require fattening, but can be killed straight from the yard 
 unless required for market. The pullets make good winter- 
 layers of jaii:ai5ed_whiig_eggs, especially if they have their 
 liberty, and have a wood to range in. The eggs can 
 usually be depended on all through the winter months. If 
 the Game cock is used, many of the chickens come brown 
 when first hatched ] if the other way, they are black and 
 white. 
 
 MINOROA-PLYMOUTH ROOK. 
 
 This cross may be classed as one of the best to keep for 
 laying purposes, both in confinement and with an open 
 range. They cannot well be put out of their place. They 
 
lOI 
 
 are very compact, and can be produced either way, but care 
 should be taken. if the Minorca hens are used to select 
 them large, and the Rock cock rather small if possible. A 
 Minorca cock may run with from seven to ten Rock hens, 
 or a Rock cock with the same number of Minorca hens ; 
 the results are good either way. This cross resembles the 
 Minorca-Brahma, Minorca-Cochin, and Minorca-Langshan, 
 especially those that come black. They cannot be distin- 
 guished one from the other, except that the Minorca-Rock 
 cross are free from leg- feathering, or ought to be. If bred 
 from good laying strains the result will be much the same. 
 If the Minorca cock is used most of the pullets come black, 
 and the cockerels a mixed colour as in most other crosses. 
 If the Rock cock is used part of them come that colour. 
 All have single combs and four toes on each foot. As 
 chickens they are very hardy ; pullets fledge fairly well. 
 A few of the cockerels may be a little backward. They 
 may be hatched early or late in the season, and usually do 
 well. Frequently a few of the pullets commence to lay 
 when very young — under five months old. The average 
 age to commence laying is from six to seven months. 
 Most of them lay a tinted egg , and are good summer and 
 winter layers. About halt come broody ; if allowed to sit 
 they make good sitters and mothers, and are very docile, 
 and will not often peck each other's chickens. The pullets 
 can usually be told from the cockerels, as they feather much 
 quicker. The cockerels are usually a long time getting their 
 tail feathers. The latter are usually ready for table when 
 from 13 to 16 weeks old. They make fair table birds; eat 
 very moist, flesh white and juicy. Their legs are coloured, 
 some being black, bronze, or yellow. I recommend this 
 cross for laying, and fowls for home consumption. They 
 are a good general cross. 
 
102 
 
 MINOROA-BRAJEMA. 
 
 This cross is an improvement on the Spanish Brahma, 
 although they are much the same class of fowl, but 
 have better qualities. They are shorter in the leg 
 fledge better as chickens, and grow faster. Cockerels 
 make better table fowls. I prefer this cross to many 
 others. They cannot often be distinguished from pure 
 Langshans, as they usually have a single comb (about seven 
 out of every ten pullets have an erect comb, and the 
 majority have a few feathers on the leg). When the Minorca 
 cock is used he should have from six to nine Brahma hens 
 mated with him. The eggs hatch well ; the chickens are 
 strong and very hardy. I recommend this cross for confine- 
 ment, as they can be reared in a small space, and when 
 once matured, cannot be put in their wrong place. Most 
 of the pullets come black, with straw-coloured hackles, 
 when the Minorca cock is used. When the Brahma cock 
 with Minorca hens, they take after the Brahma in colour, 
 whichever variety is used. When crossed in this way, the 
 Minorca hens should be as large as possible, if not, the 
 result will be a failure. A short-legged cock should be 
 selected, and if a bird of this description is used, he may 
 run with from six to nine hens, and eleven out of every 
 thirteen eggs will prove fertile. 
 
 The pullets from this cross produce remarkably fine eggs, 
 saleable anjrwhere. One hen has been known to lay 270 
 eggs in twelve months, but this is an exception. The 
 pullets at the age of 1 2 months, after their first season of 
 laying, weigh from 5^ to 7 lbs. each, and are at that 
 time excellent for the table. The average number of eggs 
 per annum is from 150 to 180. 
 
103 
 
 MINOROA-HAMBURGH. 
 
 As Hamburghs and Minorcas are excellent layers in their 
 pure state, the result is very good when they are crossed, as 
 the half-bred chickens hatch and feather well, grow fast, are 
 very good layers, and altogether more hardy than Ham- 
 burghs in their pure state, as the chickens hatch out 
 stronger. 
 
 I prefer a Minorca cock with Hamburgh hens. As a rule 
 in crossing the smallest bird should usually be on the male 
 side, but this cross is rather an exception, as the Minorca 
 egg is very large, and the Hamburghs are a small breed ; the 
 young chickens do not fill the egg out sufficiently before 
 hatching, consequently many are not able to liberate them- 
 selves from the egg without assistance. I like the golden- 
 spangled Hamburghs best for crossing, though, as there is 
 no difference in quality, but only in colour, any variety may 
 be used. 
 
 The chickens from this cross mostly have blue or black 
 legs, which is a disadvantage for the market, but the flesh is 
 very white and good. 
 
 The pullets are non-sitters, have short legs, and are very 
 compact ; they generally have black bodies and sometimes 
 rose combs, and when the golden Hamburghs are used in 
 crossing they are very handsome, often with part of the 
 body spangled or pencilled. They are extraordinary layers 
 if they have a large range. With this they will lay from 230 
 to 250 eggs per bird in the year, but if shut up in a small 
 run they will only average about 200 each, and often very 
 much under this number, unless they are sheltered from 
 the cold winds, as they are not suited so well for confine- 
 ment as many other breeds. The eggs are about the size 
 of Cochins, only pure white, and the average weight of the 
 fowls is from 4^ to 5 lbs. 
 
104 
 
 As the fowls are not readily saleable for table purposes, 
 they are best kept when the owner requires them for his 
 own household consumption. 
 
 MINORCA - LANGSHAN. 
 
 For a black cross-bred fowl I know nothing that will 
 breed truer to colour than the Minorca-Langshan, or 
 Langshan-Minorca, whichever way they are crossed Nine- 
 teen out of every twenty come black, with a beautiful gloss 
 on their plumage. All have single combs and black legs, with 
 four toes on each foot. There may be one occasionally 
 with five toes on each foot, but this is very seldom. They 
 are an excellent-shaped fowl, and take the eye of those who 
 are partial to black fowls. They are splendid layers in 
 confined runs or with an open space ; they cannot well be 
 put out of their place. A Minorca cock may run with from 
 seven to nine Langshan hens, or a small Langshan cock 
 with about the same number of Minorca hens. The latter 
 must be large and strong, if not the results will be unsatis- 
 factory. Great care must be taken when mated in the 
 latter way. It does not make any difi'erence in colour and 
 qualities of offspring which way they are crossed. They 
 hatch out well, and make strong chickens, pullets fledging 
 fairly well, cockerels being a little naked for a time. They 
 lay good-sized tinted eggs, some being browa They 
 average from 150 to 170, and many will lay 200 in the year, 
 usually commencing to lay when from 5I to 7 months of 
 age. About half of them become broody. They make 
 food mothers, but are rather timid when sitting ; they want 
 handling gently. They make good table fowls, skin and 
 flesh exceedingly white, of good flavour, and juicy. I do 
 not know of a fowl a better flavour, but of course their 
 black legs go against them in the market The cockerels 
 
105 
 
 should be killed early, from 13 to 16 weeks old, if not they 
 must be kept from the hens and pullets. The best 
 laying hens of this cross may be kept until two 
 or three years old. They do not get so fat in- 
 ternally as many other crosses do. This cross may be 
 classed with some of the best layers, both winter 
 and summer. They are excellent for confined runs, as 
 they do not show the dirt. A few of them are slightly 
 feathered on the legs. When first hatched the chickens of 
 this cross are black on the back and yellowish-white under- 
 neath. I strongly recommend this cross when large eggs 
 are required all the year round. In shape and attitude 
 they resemble the Minorca-Brahma and Minorca-Plymouth 
 Rock. 
 
 BROWN LEGHORN-BRAHMA. 
 
 A Leghorn cock may run with from six to eight Brahma 
 hens. If he is a large and vigorous bird of his kind, ten 
 hens are not too many for him. It is well not to use large 
 Brahma hens if it can be avoided, as, if they are large, not 
 more than six hens must run with one cock. In this matter 
 the owners must judge for themselves, as the Leghorn is a 
 small, and the Brahma a large fowl. This cross hatch out 
 well, and are very hardy ; they grow fast, the pullets fledge 
 well, and a few of the cockerels are rather naked for a time. 
 Most of them have yellow legs, and a few yellow skins, 
 especially the cockerels. This is, of course, against them 
 as table fowls, though their flesh is of good flavour. They 
 grow very fast and the pullets mature at an early age ; some 
 of them commence to lay at five months, and are in full lay 
 at six and a half months. They are remarkably hardy, and 
 can be reared in confinement. They are excellent layers 
 of good-sized eggs ; most of them are browa About six 
 
io6 
 
 out of twelve want to sit They make good sitters and 
 mothers, and lay early after having brought up a brood. 
 Many of the pullets come brown, much the same colour as 
 black-breasted red Game hens. When the light Brahma 
 hens are used, a few of them come buff or pale cream. 
 They are very compact and have short legs. 
 
 BROWN LEGHORN-DORKING. 
 
 The best way to obtain this cross is to run a Leghorn 
 cock with from seven to ten Dorking hens. It does not 
 make much difference what variety of Dorking is used, as 
 they make just about the same sized fowls, and are also the 
 same in laying qualities, which are very good. If the brown 
 Leghorn cock is used, the pullets come much the same 
 colour as black-breasted red Game hens. They are very 
 plump, and splendid-shaped birds; a few of them have 
 yellow legs, although the majority have white. They make 
 very plump table birds, the flesh being very white and juicy, 
 and of excellent flavour ; they are not large, but are sale- 
 able. The cockerels can be killed at an early age, any time 
 from twelve weeks to six months. If not allowed to run 
 with the hens and pullets, they can be picked up at any time 
 and killed. I do not recommend this as a general cross, 
 although they are very hardy, and stand confinement fairly 
 well, and, if they have their liberty, scratch well, and, in some 
 cases, six pullets of this cross will lay more eggs than twelve 
 pure Dorkings. If it is desired to breed from this cross 
 again, a clean-legged Langshan cock is the best to use, or a 
 Rock cock with white legs. The progeny then produce 
 brown eggs. If the Rock has yellow legs, eighteen chickens 
 out of every twenty will have bright orange legs and beaks, 
 and the cockerels yellow skins. 
 
107 
 
 LEQHORN-PLYMOUTH ROOK. 
 
 The Leghorn cock can run with from seven to nine 
 Plymouth Rock hens if he is a strong bird, and 1 1 eggs 
 out of 1 3 will be fertile. Any variety of the Leghorn may 
 be used. If the brown is used many of the pullets come 
 that colour, and a few the colour of the Rock. If the white, 
 there are a variety of colours, some quite white, some a 
 mixture of white and drab, and a few the colour of the Rock. 
 They make excellent layers of a fair-sized tinted egg, saleable 
 in market. I recommend this cross to be kept where the birds 
 are exposed to the cold east winds, or where there is a cold or 
 wet soil. They are very active, and so hardy they cannot 
 be put in the wrong place. They do as well in confined 
 runs as in a grass field. For number of eggs and hardiness 
 of fowl, there are but few to surpass this cross. There are 
 some pullets that will lay over loo eggs before they are 
 12 months' old, and in a few cases 120. Where birds are 
 wanted for laying only, this is one of the best crosses that 
 can be kept, and will become one of the most prominent 
 of the day for egg-production. Thera are many specimens 
 that lay 260 eggs in 12 months. These are, of course, bred 
 from the best laying strains, and are well looked after. The 
 average number of eggs per annum is from 170 to 200. 
 They can be hatched all the year round if required. They 
 are so hardy they fledge like partridges, many being fully 
 fledged at three weeks old. There are a few of the cockerels 
 a little backward in fledging. I cannot recommend them 
 as table fowls for the market, as their legs are a bright 
 yellow, and many of the skins the same colour, which 
 many people object to. The flesh is white and juicy, they 
 are of fair size, mature" very quickly, and may be killed 
 at three months old. If kept any longer, they must be 
 sepanated from the hens and pullets ; if not, they become 
 
io8 
 
 very troublesome. The pullets are more of an uniform 
 colour when the Rock cock is used, as many of them 
 are marked like the Rock. The legs and beak are a much 
 brighter yellow. A large Rock cock should never be allowed 
 to run with Leghorn hens; if so, many of the latter will be 
 injured dangerously. Late-hatched Rock cockerels should 
 be used for this purpose. The birds are much shorter in 
 the leg, and the eggs will prove more fertile. If the Rock 
 cock is an active bird, not less than nine hens should 
 run with him, rather over than under that number. It does 
 not affect the size or colour of the eggs which way the birds 
 are crossed. About five out of 12 of the pullets want to sit, 
 
 LEGHORN- MINORCA. 
 
 This cross can be obtained by using either male bird, 
 and the results will be much the same. One cock mayjun 
 with from seven to ten hens. The chickens hatch out 
 rather stronger when the Minorca cock is used, but the 
 result in pullets when six months old is much the same ; the 
 colour is also the same whichever way they are crossed. 
 They make both excellent summer and winter layers of large 
 white eggs. Chickens are very hardy, grow fast, 'fledge well, 
 and may be hatched all the year round if required. They 
 do not make good table fowls (not saleable in market), 
 though their flesh is very white and juicy. The legs come 
 various colours, yellow, black or bronze ; all have single 
 combs. The drawback to this cross is, they do not come 
 an uniform shape and colour. Some are like poor-bred 
 Minorcas, and others like poor-bred Leghorns. They 
 ought not to be kept where either of the pure breeds 
 (Minorcas and Leghorns) are, if so, some of the chickens 
 are difficult to distinguish from the pure, and they may get 
 mixed up in a mistake. I do not recommend this cross to 
 
log 
 
 be kept unless the owner has the stock birds all ready in 
 hand, and the old stock birds are Minorcas, and the egg-list 
 not what it ought to be ; this will be improved, and if the 
 old birds are Leghorns, size will be obtained both in eggs 
 and fowls, 
 
 LEGHORN-COCHIN. 
 
 The best way of crossing is to put a Leghorn cock with 
 six Cochin hens, the chickens from which hatch out well, 
 stand cold, and are altogether hardy. They can be reared 
 in confinement, and grow fast, the pullets fledging quickly. 
 They make pretty birds. I prefer the brown Leghorn for 
 crossing, as the progeny are more uniform in colour. The 
 pullets lay at the age of six months. 
 
 The cockerels are fair table birds, but the pullets are 
 much better, as they have short legs and broad breasts, but 
 many have yellow skins. They stand confinement well, 
 keep free from disease, and lay good-sized tinted eggs, gene- 
 rally all through the winter, but more in summer. About 
 five out of twelve become broody in the year, and if these 
 are allowed to sit, they make good sitters and mothers, as 
 they have small feet with only four claws. 
 
 The hens are about the same size as Houdans, but with 
 single combs, and shaped like cuckoo Dorkings, mostly 
 with yellow or brown legs, but with careful breeding many 
 will have white legs. 
 
 I prefer the Leghorn and Plymouth Rock cross, as they 
 are better table fowls, but lay about the same number of 
 eggs, viz., from 130 to 200 in the year. 
 
 LEGHORN-HAMBURGH. 
 
 These may be crossed by running a cock of either breed 
 with not more than six hens. The chickens hatch out well, 
 
no 
 
 are very healthy, fledge early, grow fast, and require but 
 little care. 
 
 The cockerels should be kept by themselves or killed 
 early, but they do not sell well in the market for table pur- 
 poses, as they are rather small and have coloured legs. 
 
 The pullets grow to a moderate size, and make compact 
 birds with short legs ; they lay sooner than ■ most other 
 crosses, sometimes commencing when only four months 
 old, produce from 240 to 270 eggs per bird in the year, and 
 as a rule lay more eggs by the time they are twelve months 
 old than any other cross I have tried. 
 
 The eggs are white and rather small, and although not 
 rich, are of fair flavour. They make very poor table birds, 
 of no good for the market, being so small, although of good 
 flavour. 
 
 DORKING-BRAHMA. 
 
 This cross is the most general farmers now have, and if 
 the parents are carefully chosen, the half-bred chickens are 
 very good in many respects. The best way of crossing is to 
 have a Dorking cock, with from six to nine Brahma hens ; 
 either variety of Dorkings may be used for crossing, but the 
 cuckoos are best if the chickens are wanted for laying, 
 and the coloured or silver-grey if they are wanted for table 
 and laying. 
 
 The chickens from this cross are healthy and strong, may 
 De hatched early, grow very large, and make good table 
 birds. The cockerels should be killed off when they are 
 from three to four months old, as, after this, they will not 
 be so fit to kill untU they are seven or eight months old, 
 and the cost of their keep, while they are growing to this 
 age, will be more than the additional value of the fowl 
 The pullets commence laying from eight to nine months old, 
 
Ill 
 
 and lay better than the pure Dorking, but are often broody ; 
 and if any are allowed to sit, care should be taken to select 
 those with small feet, as, when the hens have five large 
 claws on each foot, they break the eggs and kill the chickens 
 when hatching out ; if those with large feet are used for 
 sitting, the young chickens that are hatched first should be 
 removed while the others are hatching and placed in 
 wadding in a box or basket by the fire to prevent their being 
 trampled to death. 
 
 If desired, Cochins may also be crossed with the Dorking ; 
 the chickens from this cross will resemble the Brahma- 
 Dorkings in many ways, but the cockerels grow a little 
 longer in the leg, and, as a rule, the pullets lay rather 
 better. 
 
 If the owners of such cross-breeds, as mentioned above, 
 wish to do away with broody hens, and, at the same time, 
 desire to have an increase in the number of eggs laid, 
 and retain delicacy of the flesh, I advise their running 
 hens with a Minorca or Houdan cock, using the Houdan, 
 if possible, as the colour of the legs is more suited for 
 table. 
 
 By breeding in this way there will not be half so many 
 broody hens, and those that are broody will more easily be 
 cured and commence to lay much sooner ; the chickens 
 will be quite as hardy, grow shorter on the leg, feather 
 earlier, have more breast-meat, and only about two out of 
 twenty will have blue or dark legs. The cockerels will be 
 ready for table two weeks sooner, and the pullets will lay 
 six weeks to two months earlier, laying, as a rule, when they 
 are from five to six-and-a-half months old. These birds are 
 excellent for any one with plenty of room, as they scratch 
 and look well after their living ; and about ro to 20 per cent 
 more would be realised by again crossing in this way than 
 by breeding the first cross of Brahma-Dorkings or Cochin- 
 Dorkings. 
 
112 
 
 In selecting the birds for breeding the above, care should 
 be taken to choose the hens that lay best, and a Houdan 
 cock with as light-coloured legs as possible. 
 
 GAME-HAMBTTRGH. 
 
 The best way of crossing is — run a Game cock with 
 seven or eight Hamburgh hens. The chickens are very 
 hardy, may be allowed to run loose, and if they have a 
 wood to roam in, they will pick up a great deal of their own 
 food and roost out at night. They are very pretty, and 
 when young can fly like pheasants ; the pullets commence 
 to lay when from five to six months old, and are mostly 
 good layers of small eggs. They make better table birds 
 than one would suppose, and will do very well if they have 
 a large range ; but, otherwise, they should not be kept. 
 
 GAME-PLYMPITTH ROOK. 
 
 This cross can be produced either way. A vigorous 
 Game cock can run with from nine to twelve Plymouth 
 Rock hens. I prefer the black-breasted red cock for cross- 
 ing. The chickens can be hatched all the year round, if 
 required, and are very hardy and strong. They keep very 
 free from cramp, fledge quickly and grow fast. They make 
 heavy table fowls, having a deep breast, meat white, but 
 unfortunately many of them have yellow skins and legs, and 
 occasionally a few have bronze legs, which is rather against 
 them for the market. They can be killed very young, as 
 early as 1 1 weeks old ; from this age to six months they 
 are always ready to kill when well attended to. The 
 cockerels are rather long in the leg, but in this respect the 
 pullets are very moderate ; they have a splendidly-shaped 
 body. Many of them come the colour of the Game hens, 
 
"3 
 
 jut when a Rock male bird is used, i8 out of 20 come 
 that colour. A Rock cock may run with from eight to 
 twelve Game hens, if they have a good range. This cross 
 make good autumn and winter layers of fair-sized, tinted 
 eggs. They are good sitters, and may be trusted with 
 valuable eggs ; not one in a hundred will fail. They are 
 excellent mothers to their own chickens, but if other 
 chickens, of different sizes and ages, are allowed to run with 
 them, they will kill them, as they are so very spiteful. They 
 will defend their chickens from rats, stoats, hawks, cats or 
 dogs in the daytime, if they have their liberty. Nothing 
 comes amiss to them. They are an excellent cross to keep 
 where young pheasants are reared, as they can be depended 
 on as sitters, and are very gentle mothers to their own little 
 ones. They become broody early, so that they will usually 
 hatch out chickens or ducks in January, or early in February, 
 and bring up their brood if required, and then sit again 
 early enough for pheasants' eggs. They are a most valuable 
 fowl for gamekeepers, or to those who have a large range 
 for their poultry, and wish to have eggs in the autumn and 
 winter months, early sitters, and good table fowls for home 
 consumption. This is one of the best crosses to keep for 
 these purposes. 
 
 GAME-DORKING. 
 
 These birds may be crossed either by running a Game 
 cock with ten Dorking hens, or a Dorking cock with seven 
 Game hens. The chickens will hatch out well, are remark- 
 ably hardy, and feather well, often being fully-fledged at 
 three weeks old. They make very good table birds, being 
 ready to kill at ten weeks old : but they may be kept much 
 longer, if required, as the breast meat does not waste away 
 on the young cockerels after they are four months old, as 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 in most other breeds, but, on the contrary, increases. If 
 well fed they do not require fattening, but may be killed at 
 a moment's notice, and will be found in splendid condition, 
 the flesh being white and well-flavoured. 
 
 The pullets make fine birds, and lay a medium-sized 
 egg, but very rich in flavour ; they average about 1 30 to 
 150 ^ggs in the year, being fair layers in autumn and winter, 
 but poor in summer. Both parents being sitters they are 
 often broody. They make good mothers where only a few 
 chickens are reared ; but, if many of different sizes are 
 brought up together, they often kill them if they go in the 
 wrong coops. 
 
 I do not recommend these birds to anyone with only a 
 small yard, as they require a good open run, but they are 
 very well for a gentleman with plenty of room. 
 
 PLYMOUTH ROOK-BRAHMA. 
 
 Where brown eggs are required this is one of the best 
 crosses to keep. They can be produced either way, by 
 running an active male bird with from seven to nine hens 
 of .either breed. I prefer using the Rock cock, as the pullets 
 come a more uniform shape and colour ; eighteen pullets 
 out of twenty will take the colour of the Rock. The 
 chickens hatch out well, are remarkably hardy, and stand 
 the cold weather. They make splendid, large birds, and if 
 early hatched the pullets will often weigh plbs. each at ten 
 months old. The chickens do not grow very fast the first 
 two months, not feathering very quickly ; but after that 
 period their growth is very rapid. They commence to lay 
 when from six to seven-and-a-half months old. They are 
 excellent autumn and winter layers of brown eggs, some 
 very deep in colour, which makes them very saleable, and 
 especially as they are laid in the winter. They will often 
 
"5 
 
 lay over loo eggs from the middle of October to the middle 
 of March, if not allowed to sit. They make splendid sitters 
 and mothers, and can be sent on a journey, as removing 
 them to a fresh nest does not put them about in the least 
 If not required for these purposes, they should be shut up 
 at once in the broody coop ; if not, they become very 
 troublesome. The cockerels come various colours, and are 
 rather long in the leg. They do not make the best of table 
 fowls, as many of them come with yellow skins. Notwith- 
 standing this, their flesh is excellent, being both white and 
 juicy. They should be killed at the age of four or seven 
 months, as between these ages they lose much of their 
 breast meat ; but if kept until seven months old, they are 
 like young turkeys, and will weigh from 9lbs. to izlbs. each, 
 if well fattened. For a cold, damp, exposed place, this is 
 an excellent cross to keep, as they will lay when the snow 
 is on the ground, and stand confinement well. They should 
 not be overfed with hard grain, especially maize ; if so, they 
 get too fat internally, unless they have boiled rice at the 
 same time ; this counteracts the maize. 
 
 PLYMOUTH ROOK -DORKING. 
 
 This cross may be obtained either way. If active, a Rock 
 cock may run with from eight to eleven Dorking hens, that 
 is if he is mated early in the season. This makes a .vast 
 difference, as Dorkings are not very early layers in the 
 winter months, but at the same time are very partial to the 
 male birds, so that many of the eggs are fertilised before the 
 hens commence to lay. It is much the safest way to use 
 the Rock cock if early chickens are required, as the cold 
 winds do not affect the male birds of this breed as in the 
 Dorkings. There is not sufficient attention paid to male 
 birds in breeding, especially early in the season, and yet 
 
 I 2 
 
ii6 
 
 this IS chiefly where the success or failure commences. 
 Cocks for breeding in all cases should be strong, healthy, 
 vigorous, and not brought up in glasshouses or heated fowl- 
 houses, as when such birds are mated with hens many early- 
 hatched chickens are almost out of the question. The 
 Rock hens lay much better in the winter than the Dorkings, 
 so that it is easy to obtain eggs from the Rocks. If it is 
 very early in the season a Dorking cock should not have 
 more than five hens, or six at the most, less if any- 
 thing. When the weather is warm he may have from seven 
 to ten, and most of the eggs will be fertile. Too much care 
 cannot be bestowed on mating fowls for breeding purposes. 
 The chickens hatch out remarkably strong from this cross, 
 and can be hatched all the year round if required ; the 
 pullets fledge very quickly, also most of the cockerels, but 
 about two or three in twenty are a little naked. The 
 cockerels grow to a very large size, and if well fattened will 
 run from eight to ten pounds each at the age of six or seven- 
 and-a-half months old. This cross not only producesa large 
 table fowl, but is excellent in quality. I know no other cross 
 to equal it, taking everything into consideration. As 
 chickens they are remarkably hardy, grow fast even in cold 
 weather ; the legs are usually white if mated right. Not 
 two in twenty will come of a yellow cast ; flesh remarkably 
 juicy and of excellent flavour, and if fed properly will com- 
 mand a higher price in the market than any other table 
 fowL This cross ought to be bred more for market and 
 also home consumption. This will be when it becomes 
 more known and there is an increasing demand for good 
 table fowls in all the leading markets, especially in London. 
 A Rock cock that is selected for mating with Dorking hens 
 should have white or very pale yellow legs, and white skin 
 if possible, broad in the breast, and have a good carriage; 
 plumage is nothing. When the Rock cock is used, seven- 
 
117 
 
 teen out of twenty will be marked much the same as Rock 
 hens. When the Dorking cock is used they come more of 
 a mixture, and the skins and legs are usually rather whiter 
 in colour. The pullets are of excellent shape, and make 
 good autumn and winter layers, most of them laying a good- 
 sized tinted egg, saleable anywhere. This cross will stand 
 confinement fairly well, but should not be kept a second 
 year for laying as a rule, unless very good layers, as a few 
 specimens have been. When kept in close confinement 
 they frequently become very fat internally. They do well 
 in a moderate run for the first year, but after the pullets 
 have laid one year, that is when they are from eighteen to 
 twenty months old, just before they commence their first 
 adult moult, they will weigh from six to nine pounds each, and 
 are in good condition for the table. They make excellent 
 sitters and mothers, and come very broody in the season. 
 March-hatched pullets will sometimes sit in December. 
 They have a great deal of heat in their bodies, and can be 
 set on Goose or Turkey eggs if required. They are very 
 quiet, and can usually be removed to a fresh nest, and can 
 cover a large number of eggs. If it is cold, frosty weather 
 not less than thirteen should be put under them ; I do not 
 put less than eighteen. I would recommend less rather 
 than more to those who may not understand making the 
 nest ; it is best to be on the safe side. I give this cross the 
 preference for good table fowls as one of the best to keep. 
 
 SPANISH-GAME. 
 
 I do not recommend this cross, as the chickens grow 
 very moderately, come long in the leg, and are altogether 
 awkward table fowls. The hens have black bodies spangled 
 round the neck ; they commence to lay when about seven 
 months old, but often later than this, and make fair layers 
 
ii8 
 
 of moderate- sized eggs ; a few will want to sit, but they do 
 not make good mothers. 
 
 SPANISH-BRAHMA. 
 
 These may be crossed by running a Spanish cock with 
 six or eight Brahma hens. The chickens do not hatch out 
 so well as many other crosses ; they also require great care 
 the first month, as they fledge very slowly, and on this 
 account they are best hatched in the middle of March or 
 April. 
 
 Mostly they have black or bronze legs, and as the 
 rockerels are also very lanky, they do not make good table 
 birds. The hens are very fine, generally being black with 
 a few straw-coloured feathers on the neck ; about half be- 
 come broody, and if these are allowed to sit they make good 
 sitters and mothers. They commence laying when six or 
 seven months old, and are excellent layers both in summer 
 and winter of large eggs, generally slightly tinted, and if 
 bred from a good laying strain they will often lay the whole 
 twelve months. They produce from 190 to 230 eggs the 
 first year, and from 150 to 190 the second ; but the moulting 
 goes very hard with them, on account of the Spanish blood. 
 They stand confinement well if in a dry and warm run, and 
 thrive in the back yards of towns, as there they are generally 
 sheltered. They also do well if they have a good wide 
 range. 
 
 There are defects in this cross, but, having given them a 
 good trial, I value them much, as they are first-rate layers. 
 
 SPANISH-OOOHIN. 
 
 The drawback to this cross is that both Cochins and 
 Spanish fledge badly, but in spite of this the half-bred birds 
 are very good to keep in confinement. 
 
119 
 
 The bes. way of crossing is to run a Spanish cock with 
 six partridge or buff Cochin hens ; these birds will produce 
 some very fine pullets, most of them having black feathers 
 on the body and brown hackle feathers with fine stand-up 
 combs, and weighing from 6 to 7| lbs. each when full grown. 
 They are one of the best cross-breeds to keep, being excel- 
 lent layers of large, tinted eggs, and taking the year round 
 these birds, owing to their laying so well in winter, will 
 produce a greater weight of eggs than any other cross-bred 
 fowls except the Houdan-Spanish ; they lay more eggs 
 in moderate confinement than with an extensive range, 
 and keep very free from disease. About five out of every 
 twelve want to sit in the year ; these make good mothers, 
 and can bring up from fifteen to eighteen chickens in one 
 brood. The cockerels do not make the best of table birds 
 and the chickens feather badly, but this latter defect may 
 be remedied with care. 
 
 This cross and those of Brahma and Spanish, Hamburgh 
 and Cochin, Houdan and Cochin, and Hamburgh and 
 Dorking may be kept for laying after they are two years old. 
 These may be kept for three years, and will lay well if kept 
 warm when moulting, and fed on warm, stimulating food. 
 
 The Minorca is much the best fowl to use in the place of 
 Spanish (if it is convenient). The pullets cannot be dis- 
 tinguished, unless it is that the Minorca cross are a little 
 shorter in the legs. The colour of plumage is exactly the 
 same. When the Minorca is used the pullets usually lay 
 six weeks earlier. 
 
 SPANISH-LEGHORN. 
 
 The chickens from this cross are tolerably hardy, grow 
 moderately, and make good layers of a moderate-sized 
 white egg. They are ready for table when about three-and- 
 
120 
 
 a-half months old, but do not make very good birds for this 
 purpose. 'I'he pullets, however, are the best, as they are 
 more compact than the cockerels, and resemble Minorcas 
 very much in shape and carriage. 
 
 Either male bird can be used. The Leghorn cock may 
 run with from eight to ten Spanish hens, and the Spanish 
 with seven or eight Leghorn hens. 
 
 SPANISH-DORZING. 
 
 This cross produces some very fine birds that have been 
 considered the best farmers possess. People might well 
 think so when it was thought that 80 or 90 eggs in the year 
 from each bird was a good number, while this cross produced 
 from 140 to 150, and I know of one instance in which a 
 cottager's daughter kept a single hen of this description that 
 laid 360 eggs in two years. 
 
 Either way of crossing will do, but the best way is to run 
 a Spanish cock with seven Dorking hens, the chickens from 
 which will hatch out well, but want care the first three weeks, 
 after which they grow fast and require little trouble and 
 attention. The cockerels are ready to kill when from three 
 to four months old, and make good table birds, as the flesh 
 is white and good, and many have white legs. The pullets 
 are good-sized birds, and, as a rule, about half want to sit, 
 They commence to lay when about eight months old, and 
 are good layers in spring and summer, and fair winter layers. 
 I do not, however, recommend them for confinement 
 
 The Minorca cock is much the best to use with Dorking 
 hens, as the birds produced are better layers and finer table 
 fowls. The chickens are much hardier and grow faster. 
 The pullets are shorter in the leg, and lay from three weeks 
 to a month earlier. This, of course, is a consideration. The 
 Minorca-Dorkings are good birds for a farmer, and where 
 
121 
 
 there is a grass field, one Minorca cock may run with from 
 ten to twelve Dorking hens when the birds have a good 
 range. 
 
 LANGSHAN-BRAHMA. 
 
 The best way of crossing is to run a Langshan cock with 
 six Brahma hens, taking care to select the hens with short 
 legs, or the half-bred birds will be very lanky. The chickens 
 are very hardy, and if required may be hatched all through 
 the winter. The cockerels fledge badly, but the pullets get 
 their feathers fairly well. They make fair table birds, as 
 they are large, have plenty of breast-meat, and the flesh is 
 of good flavour. The cockerels should be killed when 
 about three- and-a-half or four months old, when they are 
 plump, but if kept after this age, they grow long in the leg. 
 Most of the pullets have single combs and very red faces ; 
 generally they are quite black, with black or bronze legs, 
 and often pass as pure Langshans ; but sometimes a few 
 have coloured feathers on the breast or neck. If fed on 
 good stimulating food, they commence laying when from six 
 to seven months old, and lay very fine brown eggs, generally 
 producing from 130 to 180 in the year. 
 
 This cross resembles the Brahma and partridge Cochin 
 cross in many respects, and make excellent winter layers, 
 and I can recommend them to any one with only a small 
 place, as they stand cold and damp well. 
 
 This cross are often exhibited in the show pen as pure 
 Langshans. I saw one not long since with a second prize 
 card attached to the pen. 
 
 LANGSHAN-PLYMOUTH ROOK. 
 
 This cross can be procured either way by running a male 
 bird of either breed with seven or nine hens. I prefer the 
 
122 
 
 Langshan cock to run with Rock hens. When crossed 
 in this way, most of the pullets come black, and make 
 splendidly-shaped fowls. The greater part have black legs, 
 and a few are slightly feathered down the leg, but some are 
 clear. The chickens hatch out well, but feather rather 
 slowly, especially the cockerels. They do not appear to 
 grow very fast the first two months, but after that time they 
 fill out very fast and make good-bodied birds. Although 
 large they are very active, and if they have their liberty will 
 search well for their living, but if in confinement, they 
 make themselves very happy and will do well This cross 
 is very similar to the Plymouth Rock-Brahma in many 
 respects, laying about the same number of eggs, and much 
 the same colour, a little smaller, if anything. They com- 
 mence to lay when from six to seven-and-a-half months old, 
 and are excellent winter layers, good sitters and mothers, 
 and can be depended on for this purpose. They are quite 
 equal to the Rock-Brahma for hardiness. They will stand 
 cold and damp, and when the east wind blows and the snow 
 is on the ground, eggs are usually to be found in the nest- 
 box. I strongly recommend this cross to be kept where it 
 is cold, damp, or exposed. They can be hatched out all the 
 year round if required. The skin of most of them is very 
 white, the meat being of excellent flavour. They are very 
 full in the breast, and may be classed as an excellent table 
 fowL When well fattened they sell well in the market, in 
 spite of their dark legs. This cross is a valuable one, as 
 they possess so many good qualities — good winter layers 
 of brown eggs, hardy, will stand confinement, and are a 
 large table fowl. Those that have pure Langshans or 
 Rocks should be careful, as a few of them come much the 
 same as the pure fowls, especially when the Rock cock is 
 used for crossing. This cross is frequently sold as pure 
 fowls. 
 
"3 
 
 COOHIN-BRAHMA. 
 
 For close confinement, Cochins cannot be crossed with 
 anything better than with a Brahma cock, and this cross 
 produces very good winter layers ; in fact, they lay more eggs 
 in winter than in summer, as, after January or February, 
 they are frequently broody, when, unless wanted for sitting, 
 they should be treated as described in paragraph on broody 
 coop. The chickens are very hardy, can be hatched all 
 through the winter, and with proper treatment will even thrive 
 when snow is on the ground, Cochins and Brahmas being 
 the hardiest birds introduced into this country. They stand 
 close confinement well, and can therefore be kept healthy 
 in a very small space, say from three to six birds on a piece 
 of ground three or four yards square, with a fence about 
 3 feet high, as they are heavy birds and cannot fly as high 
 as this ; they are very tame, can be driven about easily, and 
 scratch but little in a garden, if occasionally allowed to run 
 over it. The cockerels should be killed when about three 
 or four months old, as after this they get very long in the 
 leg and cost a great deal more for keep. The pullets begin 
 to lay when about seven or eight months old. Some I 
 have had laying when only six months old, and the 
 cottager with six square yards of ground can produce more 
 eggs from six of those birds than the farmer with nine pure 
 Dorking hens, although his birds have fields to range over, 
 plenty of pure air, and pick up a large quantity of insects. 
 In breeding, care should be taken to select the eggs of birds 
 that are good layers, short in the leg, and full in the breast ; 
 the plumage is not of much importance, as the birds are 
 wanted for laying purposes only. 
 
 A Cochin cock should only run with four hens of his own 
 breed and six of other breeds, as they are very inactive birds 
 as a rule. 
 
124 
 
 One reason why I recommend this cross is they do not 
 fly, and cannot in this way annoy the neighbours. They 
 should be hatched early in the spring ; in fact, they cannot be 
 hatched too early. 
 
 OOOHIN-DORKING. 
 
 This cross makes very large and handsome birds, 
 especially when the buff cock is used. Most of the pullets 
 come with buff bodies and black and brown hackles, which 
 give the birds a very nice appearance. They are good 
 autumn and winter layers, most of the eggs being brown, 
 of good size, and saleable in market. The chickens are 
 very hardy, grow fast, and will stand confinement moderately 
 well. The cockerels are not the best of table fowls, and 
 ought to be fattened rather young, (from 1 1 to 15 weeks 
 old), if not, they have long legs, and are rather deficient in 
 breast-meat. The pullets lay when from six to eight months. 
 They make splendid sitters and good mothers. They are 
 very troublesome in the spring and summer, as they come 
 broody so often if not set. 
 
 HAMBURGH -PLYMOUTH ROOK. 
 
 This cross produces very compact and neat-looking birds, 
 and excellent layers of a moderate-sized tinted egg, some 
 quite brown, usually commencing to lay at about five-and-a- 
 half months old ; about four out of twelve want to sit. The 
 pullets grow fast and fledge well ; the majority have rose 
 combs, legs dark, some bronze, almost the colour of Game 
 fowls' legs ; they are very compact fowls for the table, not 
 large, with white skin. I do not recommend them for market 
 purposes. The cockerels should be killed when from 14 
 
125 
 
 to 1 6 weeks old. The best way pf crossing is to run a 
 Hamburgh cock with seven Rock hens. Any variety of 
 Hamburgh can be used for this purpose, either black, golden, 
 or silver-spangled. The pencilled are too small. I prefer 
 the black variety, as then most of the pullets come that 
 colour. If the silver-spangled is used, many come much 
 the colour of the Wyandotte, and also about the size and 
 shape of them. If the golden-spangled is used they come a 
 variety of colours. A few are marked like the golden- 
 spangled hens, some black, and some with black bodies, 
 and black and brown hackles. This cross stand confine- 
 ment, and lay well. I have not kept a strict account of the 
 number of eggs they produce in the year ; some lay over 200 
 eggs in the 1 2 months when bred from good laying parents. 
 They are very strong in the wing if allowed to fly when 
 young, but if not, they are very contented. 
 
 HAMBURGH-DORKING. 
 
 The best way of crossing is to run a Hamburgh cock with 
 five Dorking hens, and the eggs will nearly all prove fertile ; 
 but, if crossed the other way, not more than four eggs in a 
 sitting would be good. Either variety of Hamburghs may 
 be used for crossing, but I prefer the golden-spangled and 
 black. The chickens hatch out fairly well, fledge quickly, 
 grow fast, and make very plump birds, as they have short 
 legs and small bones, at the same time carrying a great deal 
 of very white breast-meat. 
 
 This cross can be hatched late in the season if required, 
 and are good layers when they are old hens from three to 
 four years old, and look better than many other breeds. 
 They do not get so fat internally as some ; they may be 
 killed when from twelve to thirteen weeks old, and are often 
 very handsome, as many are pencilled or spangled^ with rose 
 
126 
 
 combs ; generally they have white legs, but a few will be 
 found with black. The pullets lay, as a rule, when about 
 six months old, and make very good layers when they have 
 a large run ; about six out of twelve will become broody, 
 and these will make good sitters and mothers. 
 
 HAMBURGH-OOOHIN. 
 
 Some persons think, the Hamburghs being small birds 
 and the Cochins large, they cannot well be crossed ; but 
 this is a mistake, as I have been very successful with this 
 cross in every respect. 
 
 The best way of crossing is a Hamburgh cock with four 
 hens, either partridge or buff Cochin ; any variety of 
 Hamburgh may be used for crossing, only, as a matter of 
 fancy, I prefer the golden-spangled and black. Not more 
 than three or four Cochin hens should be allowed to run 
 with a cock, unless he is a very large bird of his kind, as 
 the hens are so large. A Cochin cock should not be mated 
 with Hamburgh hens, if so, the results will be unsatisfactory. 
 The chickens will grow fast, feather well, and give little 
 trouble ; they make very good table birds, being compact, 
 with short legs, and the flesh is also very white and juicy j 
 most of them have white legs, but a few black, and a few 
 yellow legs will be found amongst them. The plumage is 
 very handsome when a golden-spangled Hamburgh is used 
 for crossing, some of the cock birds having the prettiest 
 plumage I have ever seen, with rose comb, black tail, brown- 
 red body, and the breast full spangled, the tip of each 
 feather being black or dark-green in the sun ; generally, the 
 pullets are the same colour as the cock on the body, and 
 striped on the neck ; but some are spangled all over like 
 golden-spangled Hamburghs, and about five out of six of 
 both cocks and hens have rose combs ; and, altogether, they 
 
127 
 
 are splendid-looking fowls. They fly very much, if not 
 checked when young ; if hatched early, they weigh from five 
 to six pounds when a year old ; their eggs are generally 
 slightly-coloured, rather small the first year, but larger the 
 second. 
 
 They are enormous layers, but I cannot say exactly how 
 many eggs each bird would average in the year, but should 
 think from 240 to 250. 
 
 They have been tried in all parts of the country the last 
 two years, and in most cases have given great satisfaction, 
 both in town and country, in small and large runs. They 
 are so handsome they do not look like cross-bred fowls. 
 
 I will give one or two instances to show they are first-rate 
 layers, and really good fowls to keep. 
 
 In March, one year, I hatched fifteen pullets from a golden- 
 spangled cock and buff Cochin hens, and, as they feathered 
 and grew so fast, I decided to set some more eggs in June 
 and July, as I wanted some chickens for the table. The 
 young cocks were ready for killing before three months old ; 
 of course they were not large, but plump and well grown. 
 The pullets that were hatched in March began to lay in 
 August, and those hatched in June and July laid in the 
 following January. I give below the number of eggs from 
 these early and late-hatched pullets up to the end of May, 
 most of them being sold or killed after that date. Fifteen 
 pullets hatched in March laid in September, 265 ; October, 
 322 ; November, 278 ; December, 213 ; total, 978, being an 
 average of 65 eggs per bird in four months. The above 
 fifteen, and fifteen pullets hatched in June and July, laid in 
 January, 506 ; February, 764 ; March, 696 ; April, 624 ; 
 May, 589; total, 3,179, an average of 106 eggs per bird in 
 five months. I may mention that I have had seven eggs 
 dropped from the roost in one night from these thirty birds, 
 mostly with perfect shells. 
 
iz8 
 
 These eggs were produced without any artificial heat in 
 the fowl-house in winter, and without flesh food, the birds 
 being fed as described in the paragraph on feeding. 
 
 I let a cottager have a few eggs of this cross, from which 
 he hatched three pullets, and from these three he had four- 
 teen eggs per week during the winter ; they were reared and 
 kept in a run 3I yards square, where fowls had been 
 kept for eight years, with four other cross-bred hens, and, 
 as they were always healthy, this shows they will do well if 
 kept in confinement. A farmer had six of these at the same 
 time, and he said he never had fowls to lay so well. 
 
 These fowls do well in confinement or with a large run, 
 but they lay rather more eggs when shut up in a medium 
 space, and let out for a good run once a day. These birds 
 were kept in a run about 10 yards square — in fact, it is not 
 easy to put them in a wrong place, as they will thrive where 
 some others would not live ; they are very active, and will 
 search well for their food when they have their liberty, but 
 are very contented when shut up, if the run is made 
 secure. 
 
 From five to seven out of every twelve become broody in 
 the year, and if these are allowed to sit, they make excellent 
 mothers, and often commence laying in the coop before the 
 chickens are three weeks old, taking good care of their 
 young family at the same time. 
 
 GAME-COCHIN. 
 
 These make a very good cross, especially for sitting 
 purposes, and are therefore very useful when hens are 
 required for sitting on prize eggs, or when wanted by a 
 gamekeeper for hatching out pheasant or partridge eggs. 
 They have only four claws on each foot, and therefore are 
 not so likely to break eggs when sitting as many other 
 
129 
 
 fowls ; they also have the advantage of long feathers, and 
 this enables them to cover chicks or young birds very 
 effectively. 
 
 The best way of crossing is to run a good Game cock 
 with nine Cochin hens, and twelve out of thirteen eggs will 
 prove good. As chickens, they hatch out well, are very 
 hardy, and give no trouble in rearing. The cockerels are 
 very long in the leg, but with broad breasts, and the flesh 
 is of good flavour ; but, unfortunately, they have yellow 
 legs and skin. The pullets are very fine and well shaped, 
 and commence laying when six or seven months old ; they 
 lay small eggs, but very rich, as they contain very large 
 yolks; they are inferior summer layers, but lay well in 
 winter. 
 
 As the feathers of Game fowls stick close to the skin, like 
 a bird's, and Cochins' feathers being long and thick, when 
 the two are crossed the half-bred birds have the thickest 
 plumage of any fowls, and are, therefore, very hardy, and 
 will even keep laying, if roosting in the trees, when snow is 
 on the ground. 
 
 ANDALUSIAN-OOOHIN. 
 
 As Andalusians are non-sitters, they may be crossed! 
 with Cochins if fowls are wanted for confinement. The- 
 diickens from this cross are hardy and good layers; but I 
 cannot recommend them for general purposes. 
 
 They are best hatched in April or May, as they do not. 
 feather well ; commence to lay when about seven months- 
 old, but are not handsome birds, having rather long legs. 
 The colour is one that some people are very fond of; they 
 usually come slate, with a mixture of brown. It is a very 
 unusual colour. I know of no other fowls that produce thi 
 colour in the pullets as this cross does, 
 
 K 
 
13° 
 
 OREVE OCEUR-OOOHIN. 
 
 Some may prefer to cross Cochins with Creve Coeurs in 
 preference to Houdans, and if this cross is tried the result 
 will generally be fairly satisfactory. 
 
 The chickens very much resemble the Houdan-Cochins, 
 except that the latter have five claws ; the qualities also are 
 much the same, but the Creve Cceur cross lay more eggs in 
 summer than in winter, while the Houdan cross lay best in 
 winter. 
 
 WHITE DORKING-WHITE COCHIN. 
 
 There are some poultry keepers who are very_partial to 
 white fowls, and will net have any others on their place. 
 They are usually those who have a good range for ,their 
 poultry, such as a meadow or large orchard. White Dor- 
 kings are a favourite fowl with many people, only there is a 
 great drawback to them in the winter months, namely, a 
 small number of eggs. There are two breeds that can be 
 used foi' crossing with the white Dorking so that a coloured 
 feather cannot be found on them, viz., white Leghorn and 
 white Cochin. If brown eggs are preferred, the latter will 
 be the best to use for crossing.. They can be mated either 
 way. A Cochin cock may run with five or six Dorking 
 hens, and a Dorking cock with seven or nine Cochin hens. 
 It makes but little difference which way they are crossed, as 
 the colour and shape of the fowl are just the same. When 
 the Dorking cock is used most of the offspring have white 
 legs and skins ; but when crossed the other way many of 
 the cockerels have yellow legs, and a few yellow skins. 
 They make good table fowls ; the flesh is very white and 
 juicy, and of excellent flavour. A few of the cockerels are 
 a little long in the leg, but the pullets are a good shape, 
 
131 
 
 and grow to a very large size. They will weigh from 6| 
 to gibs each, at eighteen months old. The largest should 
 be killed off after they have laid one season, as those that 
 grow so large are usually the worst layers. When boiled, 
 they eat very tender at this age. The cockerels should be 
 killed when from three to four months old, or left to run on 
 until they are six months. They can be allowed to run 
 with the pullets until this age. As chickens, they hatch out 
 well, are very hardy and stand the cold weather well. The 
 egg-table is rather low, from go to 130 each in the year. 
 They make excellent sitters and mothers, and can cover 
 from 15 to 17 eggs in the cold weather safely. 
 
 WHITE DORKING-LIGHT BRAHMA. 
 
 Sometimes, when the owners of light Brahnw fowls are 
 satisfied with the laying results, and still a little disappointed 
 in the cockerels for table purposes, there not being such a 
 deep cut of meat on the breast as they would like, they 
 often ask the question', " Can I still retain my white, clean- 
 looking fowls, and have as many eggs, and a little better 
 table fowl?" I answer, "Yes; the white Dorking is just 
 the fowl you require." When the white Dorking cock is 
 used with the light Brahma hens, the results are very satis- 
 factory. The hens lay quite as well, and sometimes a little 
 better; about 20 eggs more in the year. The chickens 
 grow faster, fledge quicker, lay about three weeks earlier, 
 and the cockerels are much better table fowls. They will 
 stand confinement moderately well, if required, but are 
 better for a grass run. A Dorking cock may run with seven 
 to nine Brahma hens. The chicks may be hatched out all 
 the winter, if required. Eighteen out of every twenty will 
 have white legs ; flesh excellent, fit for any market or a 
 nobleman's table. 
 
 K 2 
 
132 
 
 WHITE LEGHORN-WHITE DORKING. 
 
 This cross makes very neat, compact fowls, which are 
 admired by all who see them, including the owner. The 
 best way of crossing is to run a white Leghorn cock with 
 from seven to ten Dorking hens. If crossed the other way, 
 the Dorking cock should be late hatched, so that he is 
 small ; if not, many of the hens get very much injured, and 
 many eggs are unfertile. If the Leghorn cock is used, 
 eleven out of thirteen eggs produce a chicken, and often 
 twelve or thirteen chickens. They are very strong when 
 hatched, fledge very quickly, grow fast, and are but little 
 trouble, and can be hatched all the year round if required. 
 They are not large table fowls, but very plump, full in the 
 breast-meat, very white, and of good flavour. A few of 
 them have yellow legs, and occasionally a cockerel may 
 have a yellow skin ; but this is very rare. For early spring 
 chickens they are excellent, as they truss up so well, and can 
 be killed from eleven weeks old if required, or may run on 
 to six months ; in fact, they may be killed any time when 
 from eleven weeks to six months old if kept from the hens 
 and pullets, and are always ready for table. The pullets lay 
 from five-and-a-half to six-and-a-half months old fair-sized 
 white eggs, as a rule quite as large as the pure Dorking, and 
 some larger. Where a pure Dorking will produce from 85 
 to no eggs annually, a cross will lay from 130 to 160, and 
 often more. There aie a few specimens that will lay over 
 200 in the year. Except in very severe weather, this cross 
 will lay all through the winter months. Many of the 
 pullets have double combs, a few single, some with four 
 claws on each foot, others with five. About six out of every 
 twelve will want to sit, and, if required for this purpose, will 
 make fair sitters ; they are rather timid unless used very 
 gently. They are good mothers, but leave their chickens 
 
133 
 
 rather early. They will sometimes lay before the chickens 
 are twenty-one days old. For pure white fowls and good 
 layers these are evidently the best They never disappoint 
 their owners if bred from a good-laying strain. If the 
 Dorking hens are rather indifferent layers, and a Leghorn 
 cock from a good laying strain is mated with them, many of 
 the pullets prove to be very good layers. This cross is more 
 adapted to those who have a good range ; the white fowls 
 on the green grass look splendid. There is both beauty 
 and quality in this cross. It is always well to select a good 
 large stand-up cock or cockerel in the Leghorns, as they 
 are rather small in themselves. The white Leghorn and 
 white Cochin make good layers of tinted eggs, are hardy, 
 stand confinement well, but are not good table fowls, as they 
 have yellow legs and skins. Tbey are very neat-looking 
 birds. 
 
SURREY AND SUSSEX FOWLS. 
 
 THE Surrey fowl takes the lead in the London market 
 because the Surrey people were more successful in 
 fattening poultry years ago ; no fowls could equal the Surrey 
 fowls for fulness of breast, whiteness in colour, and at the same 
 time an excellent flavour, so much so the consumers of fat 
 poultry usually ask for Surrey fowls, and when the salesman in 
 the London markets is selling poultry, all the best fowls take 
 the name of Surrey fowls, no matter where they came from. 
 Surrey takes the lead. I have heard for this last few years 
 from the people who have visited Surrey what a number of 
 birds were bred there, and also went myself to several towns 
 and villages in that county, but was not quite satisfied with 
 what I saw. I heard of these notable breeders, but could 
 very seldom find a place where the poultry were fattened for 
 the market, and always returned home a little disappointed. 
 This summer of 1885 I was determined to find out more 
 about these notable fowls. I drove through Surrey, Sussex 
 and Kent twice, taking a different route each time, driving 
 
136 
 
 in all about 244 miles, calling at farm-houses and cottages, 
 and having a little chat with many of the inhabitants. I 
 think I may say I returned a wiser man. In some cases I 
 was able to obtain a little information and in others to impart 
 a little, especially in the way of breeding, as there is plenty 
 of scope for this. In many places their breeds want reviving. 
 In a few cases I had introduced fresh blood, which they 
 needed badly ; where I had done this, many pressing invita- 
 tions had been given me to call upon them, as they said they 
 could then show me the difference in their birds. Where 
 they had introduced fresh blood there certainly was a maiked 
 difference in the chickens. The laying qualities are what 
 they most need in those localities, which I will refer to 
 later on. 
 
 Though the fowls are called Surrey fowls, the greater part 
 of them are bred in Sussex and Kent, and I believe there are 
 more than double the number of fowls fattened in Sussex 
 than in Surrey. There is one firm there which, I believe, 
 fattens more birds than any other firm in England — the name 
 of Oliver. There are two brothers. They have as many as 
 4,080 birds fattening at once (besides ducks and geese), and 
 do not breed a single chicken. They employ men to go 
 with horses and carts to buy the chickens up from the farmers 
 and cottagers. Some go as far as three days' journey buying 
 The chickens are from eight to twelve weeks old when they are 
 purchased, that is in the spring and summer; in the autumn 
 and winter they are older — ^from four to six months 
 old. I have known them hatched in May, and weigh lolbs. 
 by Christmas. Of course they are fattened by those who 
 thoroughly understand their business. These large fatteners 
 will kill from 300 to 500 in a day, according as the market 
 runs. When the London season is principally over they 
 send them to sea-side places, Brighton, Eastbourne, Hastings, 
 &c., so they really command a good price all the year round. 
 
137 
 
 The firm I referred to use fifty sacks of ground oats in a 
 week, besides other foods, although the ground oats is the 
 principal food used. They use a little barley meal, skim milk, 
 and rough fat and suet. The milk is bought up from 
 farms ; this costs about ;^io per week, besides what they 
 produce themselves. The rough fat is purchased in London 
 at 2s. 6d. per 81bs. ; this is chopped fine and mixed with the 
 meal into quite a soft substance (about the thickness fat 
 pigs are fed on), so much so that it does not hold together 
 when the birds peck at it. It is so soft the feeders have to 
 put it in troughs with spoons, or pour it in out of the pail. 
 They give neither corn nor water while put up to fatten. 
 They are usually up from twelve to fourteen days, according 
 to the condition of the fowls. They are fed morning and 
 evening with as much as they can eat. Care is taken not to 
 put too much in the troughs at once, then they soon clear it 
 up and look for more. This is one of the secrets in fatten- 
 ing, not to put too much in their troughs at once; if so, they 
 soon turn away from the food. If it is given them a little at 
 a time each one of them eats so fast they entice the others 
 to eat, as each one tries to eat it from the other. The last 
 seven days of fattening they are crammed by machine ; a 
 gutta-percha pipe is put right down the throat into the crop, 
 so that the birds have not even to swallow ; one man turns 
 the handle of a machine, while the other places the fowl on his 
 knees and puts the tube down the throat of the fowl, while 
 he holds the crop with one hand so that he can tell when it 
 is full. The crop is filled as quickly as one can count one, 
 two, three. Two men can cram 25 dozen in an hour: in the 
 ordinary way they cram 20 dozen in the hour. 
 
 Some of the chickens are in sheds, and some out in the 
 open air. These were all in pens of sixes. One large pen, 
 size 10 feet long by 16 inches wide, is divided into three 
 compartments, and six birds are kept in each. There is 
 
138 
 
 sand scattered underneath the pens every morning for the 
 excrement to drop on, which is all swept up every two days. 
 There is no smell, although there are over 2,000 fowls on 
 less than 50 square yards of ground. The pens are about 
 2 feet 9 inches from the ground, and arranged so that there 
 is just room to pass up between the rows of coops. Mr. 
 Joseph Oliver and his brother are the sole proprietors of the 
 establishment. I may mention it is close to Heathfield, in 
 Sussex, about 16 mUes from Hastings. There are hundreds 
 more who fatten poultry, but not in such a large way. Fat- 
 tening in these districts is a distinct branch of the business. 
 I know a few who fatten their own, but these are few and 
 far between. Almost every cottager in some districts in 
 Sussex, Surrey, and Kent keeps poultry and hatches chickens 
 all the year round. They keep a few old stock birds to lay, 
 and many of them never think of selling an egg ; they set 
 them all, unless a few are consumed in their own family. I 
 think the poor rates in those districts must be very low, as 
 poultry-keeping is the means of keeping many poor old 
 people out of the workhouse. When old people get beyond 
 work they can keep poultry, and if they have been accustomed 
 to it, it gives them great pleasure in their old age ; more than 
 that, it batters their bread, and enables them to put on a 
 warm coat or a warm dress, whichever the case may be. 
 
 Hew difEerent the whole country would be if this thrift 
 and industry were carried out through England, Scotland, and 
 Wales, or even throughout the world, wherever there is a race 
 of people. I have not met with a man yet, either white or 
 coloured who would say No to either new laid eggs or a good 
 roast fowl if he only had the opportunity. I must say the cot- 
 tagers of Surrey and Sussex are patterns to our English people 
 for industry. Their gardens are full of flowers. I call them 
 kings in their own castles. Many of the women are up at from 
 five to six o'clock in the morning through the spring and 
 
139 
 
 summer. Some may ask what breeds Surrey fowls are. They 
 are no particular breed, being all mixed crosses. The breeds 
 vary a little in the different districts. The owners have not the 
 slightest idea what breeds or crosses they are. The breeds 
 are left in the hands of the higglers in most cases. They 
 change the cock birds, and their choice is usually a good one, 
 as far as the table qualities go. They pick good plump fowls 
 with white legs and full in the breast, and in most cases they 
 produce good table birds ; but there are not many good 
 layers amongst them, in the winter more especially. They 
 lay fairly well in the autumn, as they have several rest during 
 the spring and summer with bringing up young chickens. 
 There are some hens bring as many as six broods up in a 
 year. Many of them rear three or four broods ; but the great 
 difficulty is, they cannot get sufficient eggs in the winter; 
 there are many of the breeders have to buy. There are some 
 farmers who keep hens for laying only, and do not rear any 
 chickens for market. They sell the eggs to the higglers, who 
 distribute them among the breeders. Each higgler has 
 regular customers; some supply them with the eggs and 
 broody hens at the same time, and most of them are very 
 fair-dealing men, unlike most poultry-dealers. 
 
 The old-fashioned Surrey fowls were principally Dorking 
 with a little Game blood in them ; there are but a few to be 
 met with now. The principal breeds are Game, Dorking, 
 Cochin, and Brahma. There are a few places where the 
 Plymouth Rocks and Langshans are used. The two latter 
 are a great improvement. Young fowls do better in those 
 districts than old fowls do. I believe this to be owing to a 
 deficiency of grit, as in some of those districts there is a 
 kind of sandstone used for the roads, and sharp grit is 
 almost out of the question ; though there is grit, but not 
 sharp. I keep fowls in Surrey, but send them sharp grit 
 prepared from flints and pebbles. Many people buy what 
 
140 
 
 is called shingle from the sea-shore. 1 here are some firms 
 sell it, but it is of little use, as grit or stones that have been 
 washed upon the sea-shore are quite smooth ; the friction of 
 the water and the stones together wears the edges as smooth 
 as glass. The fowls eat it all rfght, but it does them 
 very little good, as most of it passes from the fowls in less 
 than 24 hours, but the sharp grit usually remains in until it 
 is worn smooth. Sometimes it is weeks before it passes. 
 When it is picked up by the fowls it is as sharp as a knife, 
 and when it passes away as smooth as glass. It is most 
 important to see that the fowls have a good supply of sharp 
 grit, as this is the only means they have of digesting their 
 food. Now for a word for the Surrey and Sussex people, 
 how to improve their table fowls and have an increase of 
 eggs at the same time. I have mentioned that their birds are 
 bad layers. A Dorking cock may be used with fair results ; 
 but as there is already Dorking blood in the birds, a Plymouth 
 Rock cock is much better to use. When he is mated with 
 these large hens the chickens hatch out well, are very hardy, 
 grow fast and fledge fairly well, especially the pullets. They 
 make good layers, most of the eggs being brown. They lay 
 much earlier, from a month to six weeks, and in some cases 
 two months. Most of them make large hens, and are a 
 better shape. The cockerels are considerably better, having 
 more breast-meat; they grow faster, and many of them make 
 3s. per dozen more when they are from nine to ten weeks 
 old than the ordinary Surrey fowl. The Langshan is a good 
 male bird to use when the Sussex fowls are free from leg 
 feathering. Care should also be taken not to breed from a 
 Langshan with many feathers on his legs. The flesh of the 
 half-bred Langshan birds is excellent, but many of them 
 come with black legs. This is not taken so much notice of 
 in the market as it was a few years since ; black legs are 
 but little to go by, as they do not alter the flavour o 
 
141 
 
 the fowl. The breed of the fowl is not so much to go 
 by as how it is fed or fattened. Our Surrey and 
 Sussex fatteners have fowls from Ireland. Hundreds come 
 over at a time. They are fattened in the same way, and sent 
 to the London market and other consumers. It would take 
 a person with an excellent taste to distinguish one from the 
 other when cooked. Most of these fowls are sold for Surrey 
 fowls. It is the way they are fed and not so much the breed. 
 They have some almost pure Brahmas and also Cochins, and 
 they'make them up to splendid table fowls. I hope many may 
 take the hint on Surrey fowls and follow in their footsteps. I 
 have referred to fattening in detail in the chapter on that subj ect. 
 Some may say they do not live in Surrey or Sussex. This 
 may be, but fowls may both be reared and fattened in other 
 parts of England. Many say the Surrey soil is so much 
 better than elsewhere. Perhaps it would be better if turned 
 the other way about. The Surrey people can manage their 
 poultry so much better than in many other parts of the 
 country. I think that would be nearer the mark. There is 
 much heavy, wet land in many parts where these birds are 
 reared. In some places it lies low, a clay-loam soil, and in 
 spite of all this they are successful in rearing fowls. Many 
 of them place their young chickens under sheds in coops. 
 There are but few use bottoms in these, not more than one 
 out of ten. They use old sacks or bags at the bottom of the 
 coops in wet or cold weather, and dry them by their large 
 wood fires, so the chickens are kept as dry as possible. 
 
POULTRY FARMING AND 
 KEEPING 
 
 THE question is often asked : Does poultry farming 
 pay ? I have had a large pile of letters the past 
 three years asking me this question. I will try and answer 
 in my small manual for the benefit of the public, or rather, 
 those who read this book. The first question that is 
 usually asked is. How many fowls must be kept to bring in 
 an income of a certain sum — it usually runs from;^ioo to 
 jCsoo a year — and how much capital will it require to start 
 and carry it on, and how and where could the produce be 
 sold ; and how should the chickens be hatched, under hens 
 or in an incubator, and if the latter, which is the best and 
 where can it be purchased ? These are not easy questions 
 to be answered at all times. In reply to most of my 
 correspondents on this matter, the first question I put to 
 them is, Are they well acquainted with the management of 
 poultry, and how long have they kept the same, and about 
 
144 
 
 the number; and do they understand diseases and the 
 different httle ailments which poultry are subject to ? In 
 many cases my correspondents have never kept a fowl ; in 
 some they have kept a small pen and have not had any 
 disease in their fowls, and seldom know there is such a 
 thing as disease in poultry ; and because half-a-dozen fowls 
 pay well, they think that if they had a few hundred a 
 fortune will soon be accumulated in this direction, and with 
 so much pleasure combined. There are many who have 
 started, and unfortunately have lost their little capiul. I 
 do not know more than one in fifty that has really started 
 a poultry farm and carried it on five years. I have known 
 as much as ^£4,000 to have been lost in one large under- 
 taking in five years, and in small concerns from j^2oo to 
 /i,ooo. The old saying in our country is, that poultry- 
 farming will not pay. It wiU pay if started and managed 
 properly by those who understand their business. Who 
 would think of putting a sea captain to manage a linen- 
 draper's shop; or would a farmer engage a confectioner 
 from a town to manage his farm? The contrast is as great 
 in respect to people starting poultry-farming without any 
 knowledge of the same. It is more often tradesmen who 
 have had a business in large towns who start. They think 
 poultry-farming is so simple that anyone can manage it It 
 is simple to those who previously understand it ; but it still 
 remains a mystery to thousands who have not had expe- 
 rience in it. Reading poultry books is not practical expe- 
 rience, though they may help very much in many respects. 
 I know nothing that requires practical experience more than 
 poultry-farming, especially if in a large way. It is a business 
 that can soon be picked up if the owner is fond of poultry 
 and starts in the right way. In most cases a poultry-farmer 
 just begins to understand it when his money is gone. He 
 tells his banker, or it may be, his friends ; he may have 
 
145 
 
 over-drawn his bank or borrowed a little from his friends , 
 but they say no more, so his inventions fall to the ground 
 for the want of capital. 
 
 He can see where the mistake was when too late. Most 
 people have to pay dearly for their experience. In many 
 cases where poultry farmers have started they have bought 
 in several hundred stock birds, and, of course, they are 
 purchased from different parts of the country, and often 
 they arrive before proper house-accommodation is provided. 
 Some have been well housed, while others have been accus- 
 tomed to sleep in open sheds, or, it may be, in trees. When 
 the new-comers arrive they are put into a house very thickly 
 together. The owner soon discovers a few of them not 
 eating, or, in many cases, the eyes of some of them are 
 entirely closed, and from 300 newly- purchased hens he does 
 not have 300 eggs in three months. This may seem a dark 
 picture to draw; but, nevertheless, it is a true one. My 
 advice to all who intend to go into poultry-farming as a 
 business is to commence with a few stock hens or pullets, 
 if it is in the autumn when starting ; but if in spring, pur- 
 chase a few good eggs. It is well in starting not to have too 
 many, so that they can be well managed. It is by far the 
 safest plan to hatch and rear as many of the stock birds as 
 possible for several reasons. Firstly, it is cheaper ; secondly, 
 the owner gradually gets his experience and has more 
 time to study his fowls, and becomes more acquainted 
 with their habits, and soon discovers which breed 
 suits his place best. If little ailments or diseases break 
 out, there is time to attend to them, and the owner 
 gets a knowledge of how to treat the different diseases, or, 
 better still, to watch his poultry so closely that he sees a 
 bird at once when anything is wrong, and takes it away and 
 tries an experiment on it ; and, if taken in time, they are 
 usually well in a day or two. Another great advantage is 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 that, in starting in a small way at first, a better market can 
 be found for a little produce than a large quantity, for as 
 the poultry increases it becomes better known and fresh 
 markets keep opening, while, if there is a large number 
 kept the first year, the owner cannot always find a fair 
 market. This business in every branch requires to be 
 worked gradually. Experience makes perfect. If a 
 person commences in a small way he is usually success- 
 ful. It is well to work up a fair stock of poultry where it 
 can be done before a large place is taken. If a few small 
 pens of good layers or well-bred birds are collected 
 together there is a good foundation to build upon. It is 
 not a matter so much of how much capital is required, but 
 how it is managed. It is well to have another source of 
 income, if possible, unless there is a good account at the 
 bank. If the owner can use a hammer and saw, much can 
 be saved in building the houses and coops, as these are 
 large items where they have to be bought. If the owner 
 has not time or cannot build them, it is better to buy the 
 timber and employ a carpenter to make them, and also the 
 gates. It is very easy to put up the posts and wire. If a 
 poultry-man is employed, he should be able to use the 
 hammer and saw fairly well, as if he does not do the build- 
 ing there are always things that require repairing and 
 keeping in repair. 
 
 A poultryman should be industrious, or he will be but 
 little good to his employer, as an extra pen is often required 
 quickly, or a coop made for a sick fowl, or a perch may get 
 broken, or the hinges of a door. All such little things as 
 this get out of repair where a number of poultry are kept. 
 The question rises now, What branch of poultrj'-keeping 
 pays best ? This greatly depends upon which way one's 
 fancy runs. Some have a better knowledge of one branch 
 than another. If there is a good sale for eggs this branch 
 
147 
 
 pays, and in fact every branch, if a good market can be 
 secured. One cannot be done well without the other. If 
 fowls are bred for laying eggs for the market only, a number 
 must be bred every year ; for instance, if only loo pullets 
 are required, there rnust of necessity be about the same of 
 cockerels, and if it is 300 or 400, the young cockerels have 
 to be sold at a very low rate, whereas if they are fattened 
 they make half as much again. If good poultry are 
 bred there will be many cockerels which are of no use for 
 stock purposes ; even if they were there would not be 
 purchasers for them all. The fattening coop will come in 
 very useful, as nothing need be sacrificed. If this is not 
 used the cross-bred cockerels and the wastrels out of the 
 pure, or I might say those which will not do for stock 
 purposes, must be sold when young to make room for the 
 pullets and younger broods coming on. If poultry- farming 
 is to pay, these little things must be strictly attended to, as 
 farthings make pence, and pence shillings. It becomes one 
 to count the cost before the investment is made. There is 
 no money to waste, especially in these days, when trade is 
 so bad, and everything should be turned to good account. 
 This is put down to the importation of different articles 
 into our country. The importation of grain has consider- 
 ably lowered the income of farmers. They say it does not 
 pay to grow grain and sell it in the London market. This 
 indeed is too true, and as most of the foreign corn makes 
 about the same as the home-grown, there is not much in- 
 ducement to farmers to grow at home. In poultry and eggs 
 it is different, as one dozen of home-fatted fowls will fetch 
 from 12 s. to 1 8s. more than the same number of foreign. 
 Ducks will fetch from i8s. to £1 los. per dozen more; 
 Turkeys and geese from £1 los. to £2 ids. a dozen more 
 than the imported. This, of course, is when they are well 
 fattened. English eggs fetch from 2S. to 4s. 6d. per hundred 
 
 L 2 
 
148 
 
 when sold in the market, and from 5s. to 7s. per hundred 
 retail more than the imported eggs. I have under-estimated 
 rather than over. As I am frequently in the markets, I have 
 good opportunities of seeing how things sell. Is not this an 
 inducement for English farmers to consume their own grain, 
 or a good part of it ? Corn is cheap, and poultry and eggs 
 make a fair price; but little attention is being paid by 
 farmers to the enormous sum paid out annually by this 
 country for eggs and poultry alone — over ;^3,ooo,ooo. 
 These figures are rather startling, or ought to be, to the 
 home producers. 
 
 I do not say the country should be all poultry farms, blit 
 most of the people should be poultry keepers. The words 
 " poultry farming " are usually taken to represent nothing 
 but eggs and poultry being the produce. Whatever it means 
 it should not be so, as where there are a number of poultry 
 kept there should of necessity be other stock, if everything 
 is to be turned to good account. For instance, the poultry 
 cannot eat all the grass in the summer months. It cannot 
 well be made into hay, if there area large number of poultry 
 running over it, as if so, the cattle will not eat it. Then 
 some other stock must be kept. Sheep are the best to keep 
 if they are required to run where there is wire-netting, as 
 cows are apt to upset the wire with their horns. Then if 
 sheep are kept, a few mangold wurtzel or turnips should be 
 grown to help them through the winter months. The same 
 for the cows, as they should have roots of some kind Where 
 there are a large number of poultry kept, there ought to be 
 cows kept, as the skim milk is so good for fattening purposes, 
 rearing young chickens, and for laying hens. If a farm is 
 taken with the intention of making it a poultry farm, fruit 
 trees should be planted of the best kinds. When worked in 
 this way, there is what may be called three crops growing at 
 once, and yet one does not interfere with the other, but the 
 
149 
 
 contrary. The trees shelter the poultry from the hot sun, 
 and the fowls manure the ground, thus improving it. Sheep 
 or young calves may be kept in the orchard where the young 
 fruit trees are planted. When worked thus it is not at 
 all likely to fail, whereas, where only poultry are kept, the 
 grassruns to seed, and then dies. Then all through 
 the autumn and winter this long grass is trodden down 
 by the fowls. It is not only a waste, but is not so good 
 for the fowls, as while they are searching after insects 
 on a wet or dewy morning, their plumage gets very wet, 
 whereas if the grass was eaten down by cattle, the 
 poultry would eat a large quantity of it, and be able 
 to find the insects better. Poultry will pay if managed 
 properly, either in a small or large way, but the former the 
 best. A large farm will pay if managed in a practical way, 
 but not if poultry only are kept. I know many who get a 
 good living by breeding ducks only, and yet have not two 
 acres of ground. They pay best when not too many are 
 kept, as they get better attention. If one hundred laying 
 hens are kept, and from three to four hundred chickens 
 are reared, they will clear from ;^so to ;^ioo in a year, 
 but this does not imply that if double the number are 
 kept, the profit will be doubled. It is usually vice lersa. 
 Poultry should be kept much more by those who own 
 land, and not too many in one place. Where poultry 
 farmers have made the mistake is by commencing with 
 little or no experience. Several pamphlets and books issued 
 are very misleading to the public. One states that eggs can 
 be produced for id. a dozen, and fowls for 3d. a lb. ; 
 another that the total on each hen is 16s. 6d. clear profit. 
 It is all worked out in figures nicely. I need not say how 
 misleading these glowing accounts are. I do not say that 
 half-a-dozen, or even ten might not give a profit of i6s. 6d. 
 each, or even more if the eggs can be disposed of at a good 
 
ISO 
 
 price, and the greater number of them produced in the 
 winter months. Poultry profits are not like those in most 
 other businesses — the more business done, the greater 
 profit. It is usually the other way about; the less 
 poultry the comparatively more returns. I have known 
 thirty laying hens pay £21^ clear profit in a year ; while a 
 neighbour of the same person had over 300, and lost about 
 jf 30 a year. It is the management. I find nothing else in 
 the way of live stock pay like poultry. Before I published 
 my book I made my poultry pay over 300 per cent per 
 annum, but I put nothing down for labour and rent. I sold 
 my eggs at 3s. and 2s 6d. a dozen in the winter (when the 
 greater number were laid), and is. 6d. per dozen in the 
 summer, and my old hens from 2s. 6d. to 5s. each. I do 
 not make them pay 300 per cent, now that I keep a large 
 number, but they pay very well. They require the owner's 
 personal supervision, with a good practical experience, and 
 then they cannot well fail. 
 
 I have made arrangements in different parts of the 
 country to have fowls bred and reared for me from my own 
 stock for the coming year of 1886, and have had large 
 numbers reared for me this season. I introduce fresh 
 blood in each breed every year. 
 
 Corn and land are both cheap, and farmers and cot- 
 tagers ought to go in for poultry more than they do. 
 Poultry and new-laid eggs should become a regular food 
 and not merely luxuries. 
 
 I may mention that I have had so many orders for 
 poultry during the last two years, that I have been unable 
 to supply many of my customers, but I trust I shall not 
 disappoint them next season. 
 
 \^^^Z>1^\ 
 
FATTENING FOWLS 
 
 -^.^iapBafej^dRf***-- 
 
 FATTENING fowls is abusiness comparatively few under- 
 stand, though they may be acquainted with other 
 branches of poultry-keeping. Owners of young fowls are 
 usually dissatisfied with their young cockerels when they are 
 killed, as their own fowls do not eat so tender as some that 
 have been bought from the poulterer. From 13 to 19 days 
 is long enough to have them up. The best meal to use is 
 ground oats and a little barley meal with it. When ground 
 oats cannot be obtained it is well to buy some fine oatmeal 
 and mix it with the barley meal. French buckwheat, 
 ground and the husks taken out, is a very fine meal for 
 fattening. A little barley and pea meal may also be mixed 
 with it Oatmeal or ground oats make the flesh w;hiter 
 than any other. The latter is rather difficult to 
 obtain in some parts of the country. The fowls should be 
 put in a coop on small round bars. They should be from 
 I to 1 5 inch apart, and always put longways, so that the 
 poultry can stand and eat out of the troughs. The bars ia 
 
152 
 
 front of coop should be about 2 inches apart. One coop 
 3 feet long and about 16 inches wide is large enough for 
 six fowls. It should be 18 inches high, otherwise the 
 cockerels will injure their combs when crowing. For the 
 largest fowls it is well to have the coop 21 inches high. 
 Where small chickens are fattening a smaller coop will do. 
 The fattening coops are best kept in a shed or outhouse 
 where it is a little dark. The trough they eat out of should 
 be fastened outside their coops, about 4 inches higher than 
 the bars they stand upon, otherwise they waste the food. 
 The trough should be made like a pig trough, narrow at the 
 bottom and wide at the top, and should be from five to 
 six inches across the top. The food ought to be mixed 
 up soft so that it does not cling together when the fowls 
 peck it up. In this way they cannot peck much up at 
 once, so they peck away as fast as they can move their 
 beaks. In this way one induces the other to eat. They 
 do the best where two or more pens are together, as they 
 eat one against the other. Their food should not all be 
 put in the trough at once, but a little at a time, then they 
 clear it up and look for more. Nothing sets fowls against 
 their food more than giving them too much at once, 
 especially when up to fatten, as they do not have any 
 exercise to give them an appetite. They should not have 
 a particle of food left in their troughs. It is well to let two 
 or three fowls come in the house where the others are 
 penned up to fatten, to peck up the few odd pieces that 
 may have fallen down. This prevents any waste, and also 
 induces the penned birds to clear theirs up. If their food 
 is mixed with hot water in the winter and spring they fatten 
 much faster. Skim milk is the best where if can be 
 obtained. The last eight or nine days they should have 
 suet or rough fat mixed in their food. An ordinary fowl 
 
153 
 
 should have from \ oz. to | oz. in a day, but to large birds 
 more must be given. 
 
 This helps to fatten the fowls, and also causes them to 
 be tenderer and more juicy. If old hens are fed on a good 
 proportion of fat the last three weeks before being killed, 
 they eat much tenderer. If they are boiled gradually they 
 cannot be told from young fowls when fed in this way. 
 If for the market, it is best to cram them the last week, as 
 a fat young fowl usually makes 6d. or gd. more than one 
 the same weight not fat. If crammed by hand the meal 
 should be made into pellets from two to two-and-a-half 
 inches long, and dip them into milk or warm fat, when they 
 slip down easier. They should be worked down with the 
 thumb and finger ; if not, they are apt to get lodged at the 
 bottom of the neck. When they have to be crammed by 
 hand it is well to let them eat as much as they will first, and 
 then give them a few pellets just so that their crop is well 
 filled. They should have a little fine grit in their food 
 about twice a week, but do not require any water to drink. 
 My fattening powders are used very largely. After fowls 
 have been shut up about four or five days they occasionally 
 lose their appetite. When this is the case use a little of the 
 fattening powders ; they help the fowls when put up to 
 fatten. When fowls are required to be large, weighing from 
 8 to lo lbs., they require about five weeks' fattening, with 
 very generous treatment ; if not, they fall back the last ten 
 days. When first put up they should be allowed a little 
 boiled corn three or four times a week, and a good supply 
 of green food cut fine the whole time. Give a good supply 
 of sharp grit. A little boiled maize may be given the last 
 week or ten days. They also require cramming the last 
 fortnight. When there are many fowls fattening it is best 
 to use a machine. This saves time, as a man and a boy 
 can do twenty dozen in an hour nicely. These cramming 
 
154 
 
 machines can be purchased at Lewes, in Sussex. Jrowk 
 should always be killed fasting ; if not, they usually turn a 
 bad colour. There are different modes of killing. Some 
 just break their necks and do not let the blood out of them ; 
 but it remains in their necks (draining from the body into 
 the neck). I like to stun them and then put the knife up 
 into the brain. In this way they bleed well, and it gives 
 them no pain, as when they are stunned they do not feel it. 
 Where there are only a few to kill at a time it is best to 
 have a nail or nails knocked into a wall or beam to hang 
 the fowls on. Their legs should be tied, and take hold of 
 these in one hand and the wings in the other ; hit them hard 
 against a post and hang- them on the nail at once and run 
 the knife into the brain as quickly as possible. Another 
 way is to dislocate their necks. This is easily done by 
 holding the fowl's head between the thumb and finger ; the 
 back of the head should press against the forefinger and 
 the thumb under the throat ; press hard on the neck and it 
 is out of joint in a second. The fowl should be hung head 
 downwards to allow the blood to run from the body ; if not, 
 the flesh will be dark. 
 
PREPARING BIRDS FOR THE 
 SHOW PEN. 
 
 IT is not always those who have the best fowls that obtain 
 the highest honours at PouUry Shows. On the other 
 hand they are not mentioned where they ought to be, as there 
 are so many people who know how to fake a fowl up for the 
 show pen, and take the highest prizes with inferior birds. 
 This has been carried on largely these last six or ten years. 
 1 am pleased to say the Poultry Club and its reporters are 
 taking steps in the right direction to stop this fraud (such 
 as dyeing, trimming and sewing). The paper Poultry has 
 done the fancy a good service by detecting fraud. There 
 would be more entries at shows if men would be honest 
 and not fake their birds. Judges frequently have too many 
 birds to adjudicate on in too short a time to find out the 
 little defects. Sometimes they are not qualiiied to judge the 
 different breeds. Frequently the first prize is awarded to a 
 bird not worth its carriage home for breeding purposes. It 
 is my opinion that a judge ought not to judge any breed 
 
156 
 
 unless he has had practical experience in breeding. There 
 is no doubt judges do their best in every way as far as they 
 know. Let it not be thought I am mentioning myself, as 
 I always decline it ; one reason is I have not time, and there 
 are men more qualified to take the work than I am. It is 
 certainly not right for any of the committee to be assisting 
 the judges and telling them about certain birds. Each 
 bird ought to stand on its own merits. I have seen them 
 show favours and take care to keep in with the reporters 
 and high-class people. They frequently tell them what to 
 say in the reports. This sort of work will not keep pace 
 with the times. Why should such be employed ? Because 
 their names are noted as judges. It is a pity when good 
 birds are bred and not prepared in the proper manner for 
 the show pen. I have known breeders of good-class fowls 
 show at the highest shows year after year and gain no prize ; 
 but the birds they sold usually obtained first, or were highly 
 mentioned. 
 
 In some instances I was invited to inspect a lady's poultry. 
 They were first-class, but she said she never obtained a prize, 
 and yet those she sold were usually in for the money. The 
 secret lay here. She caught up her birds straight from the 
 run, put them in a basket, and sent them direct to the show ; 
 whereas those which she sold were prepared in a proper 
 manner. Those which are caught up direct from the yard 
 and forwarded, when put in the pen at the show, usually fly 
 up to the top of the pen to get out, and thus injure their 
 combs by striking them at the top of the pen, and when the 
 judge comes round to have a good look at them, and moves 
 round the pen, they fly up to the top and try to get 
 out ; and even when they quiet down a little the feathers 
 lie close to the body (as they are apt to when the bird gets 
 frightened or put out), and the wing bars are spread out, 
 and they are in such a confused state that it is quite an 
 
'57 
 
 impossibility for the judges to do them justice, as they Ao 
 not show their proper shape, and the owner cannot think 
 why his or her birds were not noticed, and the judge gets 
 blamed, whereas it is the exhibitor's fault (if it may be 
 called a fault). A person cannot do a thing unless he 
 has a little information on the subject, and it is very seldom 
 that an exhibitor will tell his or her neighbour how they 
 prepare their birds for the show pen, especially if they obtain 
 a high honour. They usually think, " If I teach my neigh- 
 bours what I know myself they may perhaps surpass 
 me. This just suggests the old proverb to my mind, 
 that " Giving does not impoverish." This may be true 
 in many instances ; but an old fancier who has won many 
 prizes does not think it prudent to acquaint every one 
 with his mode of preparing the birds. 
 
 There are some breeds which require different treatment 
 to others j but all breeds should be put in a pen or large 
 coop of some kind, placed about three feet from the ground, 
 and be fed in front of the coop or pen. This induces them 
 to step up to the front of the pen. A little food should be 
 put in at a time, so that they have to wait for it a little time. 
 At the same time the hand should be put in the coop very 
 gently, so as to prevent the bird from being timid. If a 
 little green food is taken twice or three times a day they 
 soon begin to expect it, and will not get up into a corner 
 when the feeder goes in to feed them, but will strut about 
 and show themselves off to the best advantage. They 
 should be penned from five to seven days previously to being 
 sent to the show, and unless very tame should be put in in 
 the evening or at night and handled very quietly. It is 
 well to take them out and stroke them with' the hand, 
 especially down the back, a few times, then when they 
 arrive at the show and are taken out of the basket they are 
 not at all timid ; and if so, they soon get over it, and are 
 
158 
 
 settled down nicely the next morning ; and when the judge 
 goes round to look at them, he has no diflSculty in deciding 
 which is to head the list, and does it with much more ease 
 than when they are so wild. The preparation pens should 
 be large, so as to enable the birds to walk and turn round 
 easily without ruffling their feathers ; they should not be 
 less than 2 feet or 2| feet square ; even if larger they are 
 much better, as it enables the birds to take exercise. 
 The large breeds should have them 2 feet 6 inches 
 high, and in a few cases a little higher than this, 
 according to the size. The feather-legged tribes should 
 have moss-peat or straw in the bottom of the coop. If 
 anything else is used their foot feathers get broken off. 
 When the clean-legged tribes are penned it is best to put a 
 little perch in the pen — 3 -inch quartering answers this pur- 
 pose. Length must be according to number of birds there 
 are in the pen ; if only one bird, 6 or 9 inches is sufficient. 
 When required for the show they do not always improve if 
 shut up by themselves. If they do not eat, another should 
 be put in the pen to keep the other company, then they 
 induce each other to eat. If the penned bird is a cockerel, 
 put a smaller cockerel :n with him, too young to show fight 
 The same with the pullets. Nothing should be allowed to 
 go in that will be likely to fight. It is well to take the 
 block of wood out in the daytime. Minorcas, Spanish, 
 Hamburghs, Andalusians, Leghorn, and black rose-comb 
 Bantams (and all breeds which have white ear-lobes) should 
 be kept in a pen where it can be shaded from the light from 
 10 to 14 days before the show, such as a fine piece of can- 
 vas nailed in front of the coop ; or, better still, if the coop 
 can be placed back to the light, but not so that they cannot 
 see to eat and drink. It not only whitens their ear-lobes 
 but the combs come out much better and stronger. If the 
 coops are in an outbuilding or any kind of house in which 
 
159 
 
 there is a window, a blind should be kept over it At the 
 same time there should be plenty of ventilation allowed. 
 
 Some exhibitors use artificial heat in their houses by 
 running hot-water pipes through them. This makes the 
 combs grow considerably larger ; but it is running a great 
 risk, as the birds usually take cold before they return home 
 again. The purchasers of such birds have a great deal of 
 trouble with them, as they are liable to take cold. Black 
 fowls do not require washing for the show pen ; but it is 
 well just to wash their feet and legs. Houdans do not 
 require to be washed all throughout, only the surface of the 
 feathers, unless it is their crest. This requires well soaking 
 if it is at all dirty, and will look all the better for it. The 
 feathers on the body can be sponged over and made wet — 
 just put in soak. A little soda and soap may be put in the 
 water, but not on the brush, unless it is just for the crest, 
 legs, and feet. If so, the soap does not always get rubbed 
 eut. If they are rather dirty, a nail-brush should be used. 
 Hold the feathers on the left hand, and then they can be 
 brushed. It i s weU to pour a little blue-water over them 
 gently ; then use a sponge to get the water out as much as 
 possible ; then a wash-leather, and rub them. Always take 
 care that the feathers are rubbed the same way as they lie ; 
 finish them with a dry towel. The white, buff, or light 
 fowls of any breed which really require washing to the 
 skin, must be done as follows : — There should be a tub or 
 bath of warm water about four or five inches deep, and the 
 fowl should stand in the water, and well soak the feathers 
 (a little soap and soda in the same). After they have been 
 well scrubbed, they should be rinsed with the blue-water, 
 and it should have the chill off. After this is finished they 
 should be dried as described. Give them two roup pills ; 
 this usually prevents them from catching a cold. The room 
 should be warm, and the birds should be put in a covered 
 
i6o 
 
 basket and set by the fire. They should always be washed 
 two days before being sent to the show ; if not, they may 
 not be quite dry. When dry, it is well to brush the feathers 
 carefully with a clothes-brush, each feather the way it lieSj 
 and then with a fine hat-brush ; this brings each feather 
 into its natural state. The fluff feathers should be held in 
 the left hand, then they can be spread out and brushed 
 properly. After the comb, face, and wattles are washed, 
 they should have a little glycerine and rose-water rubbed on 
 them ; if not they are liable to crack or look very pale. I 
 have known them to chap. Some people put oil on them 
 to make them red and look bright Birds with yellow legs, 
 such as Plymouth Rocks, Leghorns, and Wyandottes, 
 should have their legs soaked and scrubbed with a nail- 
 brush. It is well not to put soda in the water ; if so, it is 
 apt to turn the legs a pale colour instead of improving them. 
 After they are wiped there will be dark rims on the bottom 
 part of their legs and toes. This dirt should be got out 
 very carefully, if not the legs will be bruised ; this makes 
 them look worse than they were before. A small piece of 
 wood can be cut into the same shape as a very small tooth- 
 pick ; the wood should be of a hard substance. They can 
 be purchased ready made at a jeweller's ; they are made 
 out of box-wood. These little pieces of wood will fetch all 
 the dirt out from under the scales of the legs. This dirt 
 often prevents birds from taking prizes, as when the dirt is 
 out they look much better, clear yellow, against those 
 which have not been cleaned out. After they have been 
 cleaned it is well to brush them again, as the brush fetches 
 the loose pieces out; then they should be wiped dry. 
 When the birds are in the pen, they should have a good 
 supply of grit, green food, and water. If heavy-combed 
 birds are rather weak in this respect, a little meat given to 
 Vhem causes the comb to grow very much. Brahmas, 
 
i6i 
 
 Cochins, Langshans, and Plymouth Rocks should not have 
 meat, or their combs will grow too much. When sent to a 
 show, it is well to give a Roup Pill, as this often prevents 
 them from taking a cold, andgives them a good appetite 
 when they arrive at the other end. Many exhibitors use 
 my Roup Powder for getting a gloss on the plumage ; it 
 also causes them to be liveher. When cockerels return 
 from the show pen which have been accustomed to nm 
 with the others they should not be put with them, as they 
 are apt to fight and injure themselvesf 
 
 M 
 
DISEASES. 
 
 POULTRY are subject to many diseases, and, as a rule, 
 are much neglected when unwell, as they get much 
 abuse from their own companions, and the owner often says 
 they must take their chance, live or die, and, therefore, the 
 poor sick bird or birds are left with the healthy, and driven 
 about and pecked till they pine and die unhelped and 
 uncared for. 
 
 AU poultry-keepers should be acquainted with the 
 different diseases fowls are liable to ; if not needed, so 
 much the better, while if the owner has sick birds it will 
 often save pain to the fowls and loss to himself, as, if most 
 diseases are treated at once, many valuable fowls may be 
 soon and easily cured that would die if left alone, and also 
 prevent the disease from spreading to the healthy fowls. 
 One stitch in time saves nine. Just so with the sick fowls. 
 If the first is saved there is little doubt about the remaining 
 ones. 
 
 M 2 
 
164 
 
 Where a large number of poultry are kept it is well to 
 have a small house by itself, so as to isolate the sick bird at 
 once, as most diseases are infectious. Any kind of house 
 will do that is clean, free from draughts, and well ventilated 
 at the top. The best thing for the floor is clean straw or 
 moss peat, the latter having the preference, as it is a dis- 
 infectant, and also keeps the fowls warm and dry, and 
 prevents any excrement from sticking to the feathers. 
 The moss peat is invaluable for these purposes, and the house 
 or coop can be cleaned out so much easier, as the peat 
 absorbs all excrement. Some disinfecting lime and 
 camphor should also be used in the house to prevent the 
 attendant from carrying the diseases amongst the 
 fiealthy poultry, unless the moss peat is used. This 
 is the greatest boon to poultry - keepers of anything 
 that has been used. It does away with all smell, and at the 
 same time is such a comfort to the fowls. They dust 
 themselves in it in the daytime, and if it is cold and wet 
 they run into the house, and their feet are warm and dry at 
 once. If it is put from three to four inches thick on the 
 floor of the fowl-house, and turned over occasionally in the 
 wet and damp weather, it is very comfortable, absorbing 
 wet at once. If the fowls are very thick in the house in 
 bad weather it is best to remove the excrement from under 
 the perches about two or three times a week. In the dry 
 weather there are rarely any droppings to be seen, as the 
 fowls scratch them all about, and the moss peat absorbs them, 
 so that there is no smell. Unless fowls are kept very thick 
 in the houses, four times a year is often enough for them 
 to be cleaned out. Sometimes it is necessary to add a 
 little fresh moss peat on to the other. It is well to turn it 
 all over occasionally, and when it is cleaned out it should 
 be swept out thoroughly clean ; if not vermin may harbour 
 in it. I have kept it in a house six months as an experi- 
 
165 
 
 ment, and when it has heen removed there has not been a 
 particle of smell. I kept birds in it and not allowed them 
 to perch, and they kept very clean. I kept two pens of 
 Hambughs on it this year without any perch, and they 
 did remarkably well. I cannot speak too highly of it. In 
 the first place it saves time in cleaning the fowl-house out, 
 it keeps it sweet, it prevents the fowls from injuring their 
 feet when they fly from their perch, it prevents the eggs from 
 being broken when they drop from the roost, as they often 
 do, as when they are broken the fowls usually start eating 
 them at once. This is what often causes fowls to become 
 egg- eaters, which is a very serious matter, whether few or 
 many are kept. It is warm and dry to their feet, especially 
 the feather-legged tribes, as their feathers get wet and cold. 
 When it is taken out of the house it is very valuable for 
 garden purposes, especially for flowers. Some florists will 
 give 5s. for one barrow-load of it. It is much the same as 
 our English peat for flowers, only so much stronger. I 
 have tried it on vegetables, and find nothing to equal it 
 No poultry-keeper ought to be without it. For early 
 chickens it is invaluable to put in the coops. It prevents 
 cramp and crooked toes amongst them, and it is so reason- 
 able it is in the reach of every poultry-keeper. Refer to 
 advertisement, where full prices are quoted. When fowls 
 are exported it is excellent for putting in the coops. I use 
 it for all purposes. 
 
 The house is better not heated, as diseases are often 
 traced to artificially-warmed houses. Poultry should be kept 
 as much as possible in one temperature, and, therefore, 
 if the house is heated, the runs should correspond, being 
 made as warm and snug as possible. This may appear urk- 
 necessary, but to those who have tried and studied it it 
 remains a fact ; for when fowls come out of a warm house 
 on a cold morning they stick about close together and look 
 
1 66 
 
 miserable, while if it is a mild morning, or a warm run, they 
 will be busy picking about and enjoying themselves. Fowls 
 roosting out of doors do not feel the cold nearly so much, 
 and keep free from disease ; but if roosting in a warm house 
 the cold nips them very much, and they mope about and 
 refuse to eat, which checks their growth and the production 
 of eggs, and brings on diseases, and more especially cramp 
 and roup. 
 
 One of the most important things to keep poultry in ' 
 health is to keep their houses and runs perfectly clean. 
 People who do not care for their fowls in this way often 
 wonder why their birds do not lay, but the wonder is they 
 live at all, and probably the only thing that saves their lives 
 is the plentiful ventilation and pure air they get In the 
 country, about two people out of five keep their poultry in 
 this way, but in the town it is different, as the sanitary 
 authorities compel people to keep their birds clean, or 
 otherwise they would be very offensive in a crowded neigh- 
 bourhood. All excrement should be removed every 
 morning, and the floor should be sprinkled with ashes or 
 dry soil, and a sprinkling of Jeyes' Disinfectant once a week 
 if the moss peat is not used, and the houses should be 
 limewashed-out four times a year. If dry, dusty road- 
 scrapings can be procured, they should be used to sprinkle 
 the floor instead of ashes, as they prevent any smell 
 arising. 
 
 I do not intend in this little work to go very scientifically 
 into the matter of diseases, but only to mention the most 
 common, and to give the remedies I have found most 
 efficacious in a simple way, so that boys or girls may 
 understand them, and treat their own fowls in a similar 
 
i6j 
 
 ROUP. 
 
 This disease is usually brought on by cold or a sudden 
 chill of the blood, very hot days and cold nights, or sitting 
 in a draught when the fowls have not been used to it, or 
 the poultry-house door left open one night, or the venti- 
 lators left so that there is a draught through the house, or 
 sleeping out of doors one night and in a nice warm housa 
 the next, getting wet and cold and then sitting in a draught. 
 When fowls are accustomed to sleep in trees and are put 
 direct into a warm house, or put in a covered basket and sent 
 on a railway journey, especially when sent to a show after 
 sleeping out of doors, they are almost sure to return with 
 roup. When poultry are travelling by rail and are allowed 
 to stand for hours on the draughty platform, especially when 
 coming home from a show, after having been taken out of a 
 crowded place where it has been very hot, and the railway 
 companies allow them to stand for hours on the platform in 
 the middle of the night, they are sure to have roup. I have 
 mentioned a few causes of this disease. It comes in three 
 diiferent forms. The first symptoms appear quite distinct 
 from each other. When a fowl first catches cold and the 
 system is in good order, the first symptom is a httle running 
 at the nostrils. At first the discharge is clear water, but if 
 neglected it usually ends in roup. If not taken in time and 
 treated properly the fowl soon begins to cough and sneeze. 
 The running from the nostrils may last for a long time. I 
 have known this to continue for three months and not lay 
 the birds up. This discharge from the nostrils goes harder 
 witn chickens than with old hens, and if they do not get 
 good attention it stops their growth. When the first 
 symptoms appear they should be examined to see if the 
 mouth and throat are free from white spots or ulcers, and 
 with no rattling noise in the throat Their nostrils should 
 
168 
 
 be washed with a little alum and water. It is well to dip a 
 feather in the alum solution, and put down the fowl's throat 
 If it is a little sore or inflamed the alum will do it good. 
 Give one heaped-up teaspoonful of the Roup Powder to nine 
 hens; chickens proportionately. The powder should be 
 given in the morning meal. If they object to eat it then 
 mix it with about two handfuls of meal and throw it down 
 a small piece at a time. In this way of feeding they will 
 usually all run after one piece and swallow it before they 
 taste it. If they refuse to eat it when given in this way 
 they must be pilled, as will be seen further on. As a rule 
 there is no difficulty in getting them to take it. When 
 there is only a running at the nostrils, and no offensive 
 smell, they may be allowed to run with the other fowls 
 without any danger of them infecting the others. If this 
 cold is neglected there is a very offensive smell from the 
 fowls' breath, and a discharge from the nostrils dried on 
 all round the outside, often preventing them from breathing, 
 also thick saliva in the mouth, and if this is not stopped 
 it soon turns to a thick mucus, and corrodes very fast, 
 spreads down the throat, and causes the fowls to breathe 
 very hard. In very bad cases there is a thick cheesy matter 
 forms on the tongue, mouth, and down the throat where 
 their food passes. It grows very fast, so much so in bad cases 
 the tongue protrudes out of the mouth, and they appear 
 to be swallowing all the time. In a few cases the mouth is 
 clear to all appearance, and the fowls look quite healthy 
 and eat well up to the hour of their death. The only 
 symptoms which appear are, they open their mouth to 
 breathe, and if they are watched they may be seen to try 
 to throw something up from their throat, but in vain. In 
 Buch cases as these the fowl should be caught (a second 
 person usually is required to hold open the mouth), the 
 opening of the trachea (that is the windpipe) should be 
 
169 
 
 worked up and down from the outside by the thumb and 
 finger. Hold the fowl's mouth wide open, if not the opening 
 cannot be seen, and hold the head quite still for a few 
 seconds, and when the fowl breathes the opening of the 
 windpipe can be seen. Then dip a feather in the lotion. 
 In this case do not strip the feather, and well saturate it 
 with the lotion. It should be a small pointed feather, 
 plucked from a fowl's wing. A tail feather will not answer 
 this purpose. The opening of the pipe is small, so care 
 must be taken to put the feather right down the windpipe 
 and not the thr6at or swallow. It may be put from two to 
 four inches down the pipe. Give two or three twists round 
 and draw it out slowly, and in most cases there will be little 
 pieces of fungus adhering to the feather, a kind of 
 whitish-yellow matter. It crumbles like little pieces of 
 cheese. In some cases it can be seen just at the top of the 
 pipe ; sometimes it is half as large as a small pea, and in 
 other cases it may not be larger than a pin's head, but in 
 all cases it should be well saturated with the lotion by 
 another feather. Then use the quill end of the same to 
 rub it off. In most cases it will peel off very easily ; if not 
 it will the next morning. If a sharp instrument is used it 
 may injure the fowl if it makes a slight struggle. It usually 
 bleeds a little when removed. In some cases it grows 
 again ; if so, treat as before, and it will gradually get better. 
 Always take care to burn the feather which has been used. 
 When the lotion has been used for a fowl's throat it is well 
 to use a glycerine feather in the same way, or pour a few 
 drops of glycerine down the fowl's throat, which saves time. 
 Sometimes this scrofulous matter forms on the side of the 
 mouth ; in some cases it forces the mouth out so that from 
 the outside it looks like a swelling. The lotion should be 
 used in the same way, but it will require more of it. Some- 
 times it is necessary for a few drops to be dropped on or in, 
 
170 
 
 as sometimes when the fungus is removed there is a hole. 
 In this case do not omit the glycerine, as stated previously. 
 When the disease comes in the last two forms I have 
 mentioned, or in a similar way, the fowls do not always 
 have a discharge from the nostrils. It sometimes stops 
 their laying, but does not appear to injure their health, 
 unless in very bad cases. If neglected it usually ends in 
 death to the fowls. What is called canker in pigeons is 
 much the same thing, and can be cured in the same way. 
 Roup shows itself in quite a different form at times, viz , 
 with a swelling in the face and round the eye. The first 
 symptom is usually a httle white foam round the eye, and 
 the fowl will frequently scratch her eye with her toe-nail. 
 Sometimes before anything else is visible these symptoms 
 will appear : at times the fowls' nostrils are quite dry, and 
 at others there is a slight discharge with an offensive smell. 
 Sometimes in the course of 12 hours the fowl's face has 
 swollen to the extent that the eye is completely closed 
 up. The face should be bathed at once with very warm 
 water, using a sponge or piece of flannel. Bathe it for a 
 short time, from two to five minutes, according to how bad 
 it is. In all cases wipe the face quite dry; if not more 
 harm than good will be done, as the fowl is apt to take a 
 fresh cold again. A little alum may be put in the water 
 used for bathing the fowl's face with advantage. A few 
 camomile flowers boiled or steeped in boiling water and the 
 decoction used for bathing the face is the best remedy I 
 know of. They must be very bad cases that the last 
 remedy does not cure. Bathe twice a day. After it is 
 wiped quite dry rub a little lotion on the swollen part. 
 This not only helps to draw the humour out of the face, 
 but prevents the cold striking the tender parts of the face. 
 The fowl or fowls should be kept out of the draught, and 
 yet have plenty of air in a fairly warm place, but not a 
 
171 
 
 heated one, unless the fowls are very ill, when warmth is 
 required. When they are recovering they should be har- 
 dened oflf a little at a time, first put in a snug outhouse, 
 then in an open shed. The first time they are allowed to 
 go in the pen should be in the middle of the day ; if not 
 they may take cold again. In some instances the sweUing 
 of the face does not go down, or only partly so, but becomes 
 much harder. In such cases as these there is a hard, 
 cheesy lump formed under the skin. It is much the same 
 as that found in the mouth and windpipe, only that it is of 
 a harder substance, and smells much worse, being under 
 the skin, where the air cannot get to it. If it is just round 
 the eye the fowls usually lose the sight of the same. In some 
 cases when the scrofula has been got out I have known the 
 eye come out with this matter. Of course it is very painful 
 to the bird. There are some fowls get over it fairly well if 
 the scrofula does not spread under the eye. When the 
 hard substance begins to form round the eye the fowl or 
 fowls should be killed, unless they are very valuable. If 
 the owner wishes to persevere with them then a lance or 
 very sharp penknife should be used. It is best to cut the 
 substance in the centre, then the contents can easily be 
 removed. The incision will bleed a little ; then use a 
 small piece of sponge to clear the blood away, and put a 
 few drops of the lotion in. This will loosen -the hard 
 scrofulous matter so that it can be removed. Vaseline 
 should be used on the wound. I do not recommend this 
 to be done generally, but only where fowls are very valu- 
 able and the operator has a good knowledge of what he is 
 doing ; if not it may give the fowls a great deal of un- 
 necessary pain. Roup comes in three different forms, and 
 whichever it comes in it can usually be cured.- My advice 
 is if the fowl is not valuable kill it at once, or isolate the 
 bird from the others, especially if there are many kept. 
 
172 
 
 Treat the affected bird with roup powder, and add camphor 
 to the water of the unaffected birds. If the fowls are free 
 from liver disease, and inflammation can be kept from the 
 lungs, not five in loo will die if treated properly. It is 
 always safe to give a teaspoonful of castor oil when a bird 
 shows any of the symptoms mentioned. 
 
 If they are breathing hard, give a teaspoonful of glycerine 
 an hour or two after the oil. If the rattling in the throat is 
 very bad, dip a feather in glycerine, and put it down the 
 windpipe. The fowl may be distressed for a few minutes, but 
 this will perhaps help the breathing,after. A few green leaves 
 of rue are very valuable in such cases. These may be difficult 
 to obtain, but linseed is in the reach of every person (as it 
 can be bought at the grocer's or cornchandler's). This 
 should be put in cold water, and put over a slow fire, so 
 that it does not boil fast, but just simmer for half an hour. 
 If a little lemon juice can be added, so much the better. 
 Give the linseed as warm as the fowl can take it. A hen 
 may have six teaspoonfuls ; a cock eight or ten. If they 
 have more it will not hurt them. The bird should be held 
 under the left arm, in a position so that the feet cannot 
 have any bearing ; if so, the linseed cannot easily be given ; 
 or the bird can be held between the operator's legs, with 
 the fowl's body resting on its thighs, the legs hanging down, 
 so that they cannot catch against anything, A small piece 
 of camphor, about the size of a pea, may be given after the 
 linseed ; and give two roup pills, and fifteen birds out of 
 twenty are well the next morning, if treated when the first 
 symptoms appear. It is always the best to go into the 
 fowl-house in the evening, especially in the autumn and 
 winter months, just to see whether the fowls are all right. I 
 prepare roup pills ready for use ; these are a convenience to 
 have if the birds are a little out of sorts, but for bad cases 
 I prefer the pills made from the roup powder, as it is use- 
 
^73 
 
 less to give patients medicine without a portion of food 
 also (especially fowls). This is why I give the powders the 
 preference. For one hen mix half a teaspoonful of the 
 roup powder (if very bad, three-quarters may be given;, 
 one heaped-up teaspoonful of flour, one-and-a-half of fine 
 oatmeal, and a little piece of fat, about a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of dripping, lard, or butter will do, and a little hot 
 water, just sufficient to make it into a paste, so that it will 
 hold together. For a cock, three-quarters of a teaspoonful 
 of the powder may be given. If the fowls are very bad, 
 give this quantity twice a day, especially the first day. If 
 the fowls cannot eat any food, that is, if they do not pick it 
 up for themselves, then an extra quantity of meal and flour 
 can be used, that is to keep the fowls' strength up. In this 
 case I cannot state exactly the number of pills to give each 
 fowl ; they should not have less than two or three at a time. 
 I usually make them the size of the little finger to the 
 second joint. If the fowls do not appear to swallow them, 
 they should be worked down the neck with the thumb 
 and finger. Should the fowls be blind in both eyes, they 
 ought to have a little water poured down their throat with a 
 teaspoon. If the fowls are treated as I have described, they 
 will often be well in a few days. Even bad cases soon 
 begin to recover if there is nothing but roup in their system. 
 When they breathe very hard they usually have in- 
 flammation of the lungs. (Refer to paragraph on that 
 complaint). If they only partly recover, and do not 
 eat after fifteen or twenty-one days' treatment, they usually 
 have liver complaint. If they are valuable fowls, it is well 
 to give them two teaspoonfuls of cod liver oil. 
 
 It is well for those who are interested in poultry to try 
 these experiments on common fowls, if time will permit, 
 and esjjecially if they think of keeping valuible poultry; 
 if not, killing the first is usuallv cheapest in the end, espe- 
 
174 
 
 daily if there are many birds left. The first symptoms of 
 roup in young chickens are usually a slight running at the 
 nostrils, roughness of the plumage, drooping of the wings, 
 and loss of appetite. They usually drink a great dea,l of 
 water, which makes them much worse, as it frequently gives 
 them diarrhoea. It is well to put camphor in the drinking- 
 water, only allowing them about half- the usual quantity for 
 two or three days ; then discontinue water altogether. If 
 it is hot weather, soak the com in water. Use soft meal in 
 the morning with the roup powder in it, and in ten or 
 fourteen days the chickens will be in a healthy state again. 
 When the chickens' throats become sore, they usually open 
 their mouths very much, and many people put it down as 
 gapes. When there is a sign of gapes discontinue the 
 water, and give sharp grit, soft food with roup powder mixed 
 in, and boil the corn for a week or ten days. These simple 
 remedies will work wonders, bringing health and vigour to 
 the chickens very quickly. Under any circumstances do 
 not overcrowd chickens, and give them ventilation, but not 
 draught. 
 
 LIVER DISEASE. 
 
 There are many fowls suffer and die with this complaint 
 while their owners are quite unaware of the cause of death, 
 and often put it down to consumption or cramp unless 
 they happen to open the bird and find an enlarged liver. 
 
 Fowls in confinement appear most liable to this com- 
 plaint, and this is often for want of some necessaries, such 
 as green-food, grit, &c., and I have found birds that have 
 suffered in confinement recover from this disease when let 
 out to run on a grass field, an J this, I think, was on 
 account of their eating dandelions, which will often effect a 
 cure. 
 
I7S 
 
 When the birds are not valuable they should be killed at 
 once, as this disease often sticks to them all their lives ; but 
 if persons wish to save their birds they should be supplied 
 with tonics, such as the advertised powders, and treated 
 with the same remedies that human beings use for this 
 complaint, viz., gentian and horehound. 
 
 The symptoms of this disease are rather difficult to 
 describe. In many cases there is lack of gloss on plum- 
 age ; the feathers look rough, and the fowls seem to have 
 lost all energy. First thing in the morning they go to the 
 drinking fountain, but do not drink very much, as they do 
 in many other diseases. They eat but little soft food; 
 many of them will not touch it, and usually eat fairly well of 
 hard corn, especially maize ; of this they eat very greedily 
 If allowed to have it, they will eat this until the hour o' 
 their death. There is usually a yellow cast about the face, 
 especially round their eyes. Their face appears sunken in. 
 It can be noticed better if put beside a healthy bird. The 
 eye is rather dull. There is often a peculiarity in their 
 walk, appearing as though they were rather stiff, and were 
 afraid to shake their bodies. If they are made to run, they 
 usually go a little lame on one leg. It is the heavier breeds 
 which are the lamest It is seldom the smaller breeds show 
 any tendency to be lame. Their food does not digest, and 
 their crops are seldom empty. There are several causes 
 for this complaint In-breeding in the heavy breeds is 
 often the cause. I have traced this in many poultry yards, 
 and, in some cases, nine out of twelve have died. In- 
 sufficiency of sharp grit, to help digest the food, is one of 
 the greatest enemies to the liver. Fowls cannot keep 
 healthy long unless they are supplied with sharp grit 
 Cayenne pepper should be avoided. The liver is usually 
 the first organ to suffer. Sometimes it brings on consump 
 tion and roup. When the liver is not acting properly, the 
 
176 
 
 fowl is much more susceptible to other diseases, as when 
 this is out of order the blood is very hot, and at other times 
 very low in temperature. Insufficiency of green food 
 is very bad for the fowls. This frequently affects the liver. 
 The more they can have of it the better they are. Another 
 cause of liver disease is over-feeding on hard corn, 
 especially maize. This should be avoided ; a little does 
 not hurt them, but feeding heavily on it is ruinous to the 
 liver, especially when the fowls are in confined runs, and 
 do not get sufficient exercise. When fowls have liver 
 disease, very hot weather will carry them off very quickly. 
 They will stand any amount of cold. Sudden changes 
 upset the liver very much ; such as roosting in a warm 
 house one night and in a tree the next, or anywhere> 
 causing a sudden change. This brings on congestion of 
 the liver. The bird should be kept in one temperature as 
 much as possible. When fowls have the disease badly, 
 their excrements are very yellow. In bad cases, the fowls 
 waste away, so there is scarcely anything of them left, with 
 the exception of skin and bone. In such cases as these it 
 is an impossibility to effect a cure, as the liver is scrofulous 
 (covered with white spots or streaks). At first the liver 
 becomes enlarged, usually through some of the causes I 
 have mentioned, and then followed by these scrofulous 
 spots. When they first appear they are not larger than a 
 pin's point ; and if the fowl or fowls are not treated at once, 
 they grow very rapidly. Some of them grow as large as 
 horse beans, in which state they become like a fungous 
 matter, and spread to the other organs of the body, espe- 
 cially the entrails. The passage leading from the crop to 
 the gizzard is rather more liable to take them than 
 the other parts. When this matter commences to form 
 there, the excrements are green r nd /ery thin. When they 
 get to this stage, the scrofula tpr jads very fast in other 
 
177 
 
 parts of the intestines, and in some cases entirely blocks 
 the passage up, so that even a liquid cannot pass. After 
 this occurs, death ensues in a few hours. In many cases 
 the fowls waste to a skeleton. In a few cases I have found 
 on post mortem examination in male birds a kind of 
 tumour formed of this scrofulous matter encased in a skin in 
 the abdomen, just in the same way as the eggs in a hen. I 
 have found them yarious sizes, weighing from half an ounce 
 to nine ounces. >-' I have taken them out as round as a 
 cricket ball, and in other cases they have been the shape of 
 a hen's egg. The liver disease is indeed a thing that ought 
 to be avoided as much as possible. A preventive is better 
 than a cure, though it may not be thought much of. When 
 a fowl is really bad with the liver disease it is waste of time 
 and money to attempt to cure it, unless it is for an experi- 
 ment. This disease is found much more where exhibition 
 birds are kept or the offspring from them. In-breeding and 
 too high feeding to obtain size, or chickens that have been 
 bred- from hens that have been fed chiefly on maize, are the 
 causes. I have known more than half the chickens die 
 from this disease where the parents have been fed entirely 
 on maize. As hard corn, do not give more than one-third 
 of maize ; less, if anything. 
 
 Remedies. — As herbs, nothing are better than dandelions 
 watercresses, and horehound. The two former can be cut 
 up in small pieces, and given to the fowls. They eat them 
 up greedily, and enjoy them very much. When horehound 
 is used, it is best to boil it for about fifteen minutes, and 
 give them the decoction. About two sprays are sufficient 
 for from twelve to fifteen fowls. The best way of giving 
 the liquid to the fowls is to mix the soft food with it in the 
 morning. Use as much water to boil the horehound as 
 will mix the food. A little gentian root (powdered) is very 
 good. It is strong, and should be used carefully. My 
 
178 
 
 powders (especially the roup), as advertised in this book, 
 are prepared to act upon the liver. This is the remedy I 
 use myself for my own fowls. I use the poultry powders 
 twice a week ; but if it is a cold or wet morning I substitute 
 the roup powders. I use the poultry from August to March 
 or middle of April. I give it from three to five times a 
 week, according to the weather. If it is very cold I give it 
 every day, If the weather is milder I discontinue it for a 
 few days, sometimes for a week. In sudden changes— such 
 as a cold, wet morning, or a sharp frost — I give the roup 
 powders. With this treatment my fowls keep in perfect 
 health, even through their moult. Many of them do not 
 lose their redness of comb. I have had some hens lay up 
 to eight years of age. The powder strengthens every organ 
 of the body. When fowls are in confinement, and do not 
 get much exercise, it is well to boil their grain occasionally ; 
 also give boiled rice for a change for the evening meal, and 
 finish them off by giving a little hard corn or stale soaked 
 bread. If fowls are treated properly, liver disease would 
 soon have but little effect upon poultry. If care and proper 
 treatment are given to them they will fully repay their 
 owner, 
 
 LEG- WEAKNESS. 
 
 Sometimes young cockerels that have grown quicker than 
 the others are taken with this disease, the symptoms of 
 which are much the same as cramp, viz., tumbling over 
 when attempting to stand up, dropping down quickly and 
 frequently, sitting down to eat their food, as though they 
 had no strength. The best remedy is to feed on stimula- 
 ting food, such as meat, bone-meal, &c., and to give a tonic 
 in the water. The birds should not be allowed to roost, 
 but should be put on straw, hay, or moss-peat for a time. 
 They are best killed for table and not kept for stock birds. 
 
179 
 
 GAPES. 
 
 This disease is mostly confined to young chickens, and 
 requires different treatment from any other, as it consists of 
 small worms in the windpipe which cause the chickens to 
 gape and run backwards, and if some remedy is not 
 applied immediately they live but a very short time. There 
 are many thousands perish annually of this disease, more 
 especially among farmers, and I have known as many as 
 300 to die on one farm in a year. How the worms get in 
 the throat is a mystery, but some scientific writers tell us it 
 is from eggs deposited by a kind of tick often found on 
 chickens ; this may be possible, but it is also very plain to 
 me that chickens reared in the country appear more liable 
 to this disease than those in the town, and the only reason 
 I can find for this is that country chickens often drink 
 dirty, stagnant water, while those in town generally get 
 clean, fresh water. I tried the experiment of giving a few 
 chickens water from a tub that had stood some time and 
 found that many of them had gapes, while those with fresh 
 water were quite free. I may also mention that there are 
 many wild birds in the country die from this disease. 
 
 These worms may be extracted from the chicken's throat 
 by inserting the stem of a hen's feather stripped of the 
 downy part, except just at the end, down the windpipe, and 
 when withdrawn after being properly twisted round two or 
 three times there will sometimes be as many as half-a-dozen 
 worms on the end of it. 
 
 Another good remedy is Jeyes' Disinfectant. Use one 
 teaspoonful of the liquid to one tablespoonful of water ; the 
 gullet should be worked up by the thumb and finger so that 
 the windpipe is within easy reach. Dip the feather in the 
 solution and put it down from two to five inches, according 
 to the size of the chicken. Twist it round two or three 
 
 N 2 
 
I So 
 
 times, and if the chicken is yery much distressed put a salad 
 oil feather down its windpipe and then a teaspoonful of 
 water. This is a sure and easy cure. It is also inexpensive, 
 as a IS. bottle would cure i,ooo chickens. 
 
 Another good remedy is to give the chickens a few small 
 pieces of camphor, about the size of a pea, a}, intervals, or 
 if many are attacked at once they should be put in a box 
 with a little disinfecting lime and a little common lime, and 
 when the box is shaken the chickens will flutter about and 
 breathe the lime dust, which is an immediate cure. They 
 should be left in about five minutes, and after shaking the 
 box the lid should be left open a little way to observe them, 
 so that if any appear overcome they may be taken out at 
 once and relieved, which may easily be done by blowing 
 down the throat, when they will soon recover. If the eyes 
 are closed they should be opened and gently wiped (not 
 washed) with a silk handkerchief. It is always best to feed 
 on meal only for a day or two after any operation. 
 
 The best preventive I know of for gapes is plenty of clean 
 water and clean and dry runs and coops, but a little cam- 
 phor added to the water often prevents any disease of this 
 kind. 
 
 Camphor is the best purifier to the body I know of. It 
 is worth a guinea an ounce to poultry-keepers. There 
 would not be half the disease among chickens, turkeys, and 
 pheasants there now is, if it was used in the water. It 
 should be put in the drinking vessels. A piece as large as 
 a walnut will last twenty chickens from three weeks to a 
 month. It dissolves very slowly. Every time the water is 
 changed the piece of camphor must be replaced in the 
 drinking vessel. My Lotion, as advertised, will cure the 
 gapes, used in the same way as Jeyes' Disinfectant ; but as 
 every poultry-keeper has not it by him, I have mentioned 
 a few remedies which can be obtained at once if required. 
 
i8i 
 
 ORAMP. 
 
 Early chickens are often subject to this disease in the 
 cold weather, when from one to six weeks old. The result 
 is that the toes are contracted, and the chickens fall down 
 in trying to walk, and shuffle about on the joints of the 
 legs. When this is the case the foot and leg should be 
 rubbed with turpentine, and a little vaseline rubbed well 
 in, and a piece of stick should be obtained with three 
 prongs, the same shape as the chicken's foot. The toes 
 should be bound round with cotton wadding, and each toe 
 strapped with wool or worsted separately to a prong of the 
 stick, the chicken being put in a box on wool or flannel, 
 and kept warm for a few hours. If very bad they should 
 be kept away from the hen for a few days, but should be 
 put under at night, being removed first thing in the morn- 
 ing and replaced in the box. When the wood cannot be 
 obtained, get a piece of cardboard. Wrap each toe in 
 cotton wool, place them on the cardboard, and sew them 
 separately on to it with worsted,putting the stitches over the 
 toe and through the cardboard, so that they cannot be 
 moved. 
 
 Some chickens never get over cramp, but are always 
 shaky on their feet, These should be killed for table, and 
 not kept for stock birds. Cramp in chickens is usually 
 caused by their being on hard floors, either boards or flag- 
 stones. It is for the want of circulation in the blood. 
 
 The symptoms in laying hens are : they sit down on the 
 ground ; their feathers are rough just across the rump, i.e., 
 at the top of the back. When the hen is disturbed she 
 holds her wings out, flutters, and falls over. She appears 
 to have no use of her legs and feet. She is still very red in 
 comb, is bright in the eye, and also eats well. 
 
 They are very subject to cramp in the winter and spring 
 
l82 
 
 months, and these are usually the best layers. They use 
 up carbon too fast, and the blood gets chilled, and does 
 not circulate in their legs properly. Their legs are quite 
 cold, and the hens lose all the use of them, and cannot 
 stand upon their feet. This so very often happens to good 
 layers ; it causes them to lay soft eggs. If the hens are 
 not noticed when they are in this state, and taken from 
 the male bird, they often lose their lives. They should be 
 taken from the other fowls, and their legs held in hot or 
 warm water, just so that the finger can stand it, with a 
 little mustard in. It is well to rub the legs with a nail 
 brush. When taken out of the water they should be rubbed 
 quite dry ; then a little turpentine rubbed in, and a little 
 vaseline applied after. This keeps the skih from drying 
 and cracking. Then wrap the legs round with cotton wool 
 or flannel, put on warm. Then place the bird in a basket 
 quite out of all draughts, in a moderately warm place if 
 possible. This usually cures them the first dressing; if not, 
 repeat the same. 
 
 They should be kept on moss peat, or straw, and then 
 there is a warmth arises to their legs, and the blood 
 circulates freely again. 
 
 EGG-EATING. 
 
 Some hens are addicted to egg- eating, and as they clear 
 away all traces of the eggs so neatly it is difficult to find 
 them out, and if not found out and stopped at once the 
 other hens soon learn the bad habit. If there is a suspicion 
 of any eggs being eaten, an egg should be laid in the run 
 and the fowls carefully watched. If some of them turn the 
 egg over, but do not eat it, it proves they are not egg- 
 eaters, but if any of them do commence eating it the egg 
 should be at once taken away, and after removing the white. 
 
i83 
 
 a quantity of mustard and ammonia or some other hot 
 substance should be mixed with the yolk and replaced in 
 the run. In most cases the taste of the mustard, &c., 
 proves a cure at once, but it may be necessary to repeat the 
 operation with another egg treated m the same way. If 
 this proves ineffectual the egg-eater should be killed at 
 once ; if not she teaches the others. Egg-eatmg is generally 
 caused by soft-shelled eggs being broken, or eggs dropped 
 fr jm the roost and broken. The birds all rush to them at 
 once and clear them up. Peat moss is a good preventive 
 as it is soft to catch the eggs should the hens drop them 
 from the roost. Another cause is the want of materials for 
 shell-making, and if the birds are to be cured they must, of 
 course, be supplied with these necessities, such as oyster, 
 shells and bone-meal. I do not have one egg eaten in two 
 years. If egg-shells are given they must be broken up very 
 fine, or this will teach them egg-eating. 
 
 Egg-eating is a very serious matter. I have known 
 people sell their hens because they said they did not lay 
 whilst almost every hen was laying at the same time, but 
 the birds ate them all. I have had several gentlemen com- 
 plain to me this last year, saying their fowls did not lay. I 
 asked them to watch the birds, and in every case they were 
 in full lay, but ate all their eggs. At one place they ate 
 about 15a day, and yet the trace of an egg was never to be 
 seen. If there is only one hen which eats the eggs it is 
 best to kill her at once. 
 
 EGG-BOUND. 
 
 This a not a complaint, but rather a misfortune, to which 
 pullets and young hens are more susceptible than old 
 ones. The cause of these accidents is that the egg-pas- 
 sage is too small to admit the egg passing through; Symp- 
 
1 84 
 
 toms : — ^The fowl is often on the nest, and in walking the 
 tail will touch the ground, while the head and breast are 
 reared straight up. If they are not extra valuable and 
 quite young, it is best to kill at once, as they are then in 
 excellent condition for eating; 
 
 The best remedy is to dip a feather in castor oil and 
 pass it up the egg-passage, and this generally causes the 
 egg to be laid ; care must be taken so as not to break the 
 egg inside the fowl, as when this happens it is generally 
 fatal. Sometimes the egg breaks of its own accord, and the 
 skin remains in the fowl. This should be attended to at 
 once ; if not, it causes her to rupture herself by continually 
 straining, and the egg-passage comes right out. If the 
 fowl is seen at once, and attended to, she may be saved. 
 The passage should be rubbed with a little castor oil, and 
 then gently put back again. The hen should be held head 
 downwards, then the egg-passage will fall into its proper 
 place. The hen should then be wrapped in a bag or thin 
 canvas, so that she can easily breathe through it; She 
 should be laid with her head about six inches lower than 
 her tail. If the hen lies in this position for about six or 
 eight hours the egg-passage will fall back into its proper 
 place, but if she is allowed to stand upon her legs it causes 
 her to strain herself, and the passage falls out again. 
 
 The eggs hang round in a cluster, something like a 
 bunch of grapes, and at times they get out of place, and 
 so press very hard one against the other, thus causing de- 
 formed eggs. This is more especially the case with Cochins, 
 the reason, I think, being that they are generally very fat 
 about the egg-passages, and so have less room for the 
 eggs to pass. 
 
 Fowls, after being egg-bound, should only have a little 
 soft food for several days. If they are not attended to at 
 once, inflammation takes place, and the hen suffers very 
 
i85 
 
 much pain. When this is the case the birds should be killed 
 at once. 
 
 CROP-BOUND. 
 
 This is a common complaint, generally caused by careless 
 or over-feeding, and sometimes for want of sharp grit. It 
 generally occurs when the birds are in full lay, but if 
 treated at once, it seldom stops there. The first symptoms 
 noticed are that the fowl mopes about, often taking up the 
 food and laying it down again, and drinking a great quantity 
 of water. The crop turns hard, and the passage from it to 
 the gizzard gets stopped. The best thing is to give the 
 fowl two teaspoonfuls of castor oil and a little warm water, 
 and some time after to gently rub the crop with the thumb 
 and finger, so as to remove every particle of its contents. 
 If the crop is not softer in three or four hours, the dose of 
 warm water should be repeated, rubbing the crop as before ; 
 and if, in another four hours, the crop is still hard, the warm 
 water, oil, and rubbing should again be repeated, and if 
 ineffectual, the only remedy left will be to open the crop 
 and remove the hard contents. 
 
 The best way to do this is to get some one to hold the 
 fowl on its back, and then to part the feathers down the 
 centre of the crop, taking care not to pull any out if it can 
 be helped, as they keep the cold from the wound. The in- 
 cision should be made at the top of the crop with some 
 sharp instrument or small penknife, taking care not to cut 
 any of the large blood-vessels in the outer skin. The hole 
 should be about an inch long, or just long enough to remove 
 the contents of the crop with the end of a teaspoon. The 
 crop should then be washed out with a little warm water, 
 and a little neatsfoot or castor oil put round the inside with 
 a feather. It should then be carefully sewn up with silk or 
 
i86 
 
 horsehair, each skin being sewn up separately. A little alum 
 and water applied hardens it very much. Wipe the wound 
 as dry as possible, and then put a little lard on it. 
 
 The fowl must not be exposed to the cold for several 
 days, and no water must be given for thirty hours, or it will 
 find its way through the stitches and wet the hen's feathers, 
 and cause her to take cold, especially if in cold weather. 
 The diet should consist of soft food given warm, and in two 
 or three days the fowl will be quite recovered. Care should 
 be taken in removing the contents of the crop, as sometimes 
 there are pieces of glass, bone, or cinder inside. Very 
 often, when fowls are crop-bound, they drink such an 
 enormous quantity of water that the crop becomes full and 
 remains so, hanging down like a bladder. When this 
 occurs, the best remedy is to hold the fowl's head down- 
 wards, and press the crop so as to force all the water out, 
 if not the crop will fall. The under skin gives way and 
 lets the crop down, and when the hen walks it is in her way 
 of stepping. This is what i-j termed a ruptured crop. Alum 
 and water is the best outward application. Bathe it twice 
 a day. If this is done in time it can usually be cured. 
 When the crop is empty, give the bird three-quarters of a 
 teaspoonful of castor oil and feed sparingly on soft food 
 only for a day or two, giving no water during this period. 
 
 SOFT EGGS. 
 
 Poultry-keepers are often troubled with fowls laying soft 
 eggs. There are several causes. It may be for' want of 
 shell-making material, but not this in all cases. Sometimes 
 when hens have been laying a large number of eggs, they 
 make eggs faster than nature can shell them. I have had 
 fowls lay one perfect and one shell-less egg in twelve hours. 
 I have frequently had them lay one shell-less egg in the night 
 
i87 
 
 and a perfect one early the next morning. This is not an 
 exception, but often occurs where good layers are kept. I 
 have had as many as six soft eggs from thirty fowls in one 
 night, some years since, so that I was obliged to put straw 
 underneath the perches to catch the eggs. I thought it was 
 impossible for a fowl to lay two perfect eggs in 24 hours, or 
 rather to shell them in that time ; but I have proved it is 
 not, having had them do it— pullets under eight months 
 old. Fowls are not always out of order when they lay 
 shell-less eggs, as many think they are ; that is, if they are 
 supplied with everything necessary to form the shell and to 
 keep the egg organs in a healthy state. A fowl often lays 
 double-yolked eggs. This weakens the egg organs, and 
 often causes soft eggs to be laid. When fowls are over-fed 
 and become very fat internally, they often lay soft eggs ; 
 also when they have been laying a long time without a rest 
 their egg organs naturally get weak, especially if they lay 
 large eggs. Their oviduct, or egg-passage, is wonderfully 
 constructed. It is attached to the ovary (this is where the 
 eggs first form). They hang much the same as a bunch of 
 grapes, and can be seen by a microscope when not larger 
 than the point of a pin. They are so constructed that the 
 largest ones are at the bottom of the ovary, or rather they 
 are encased in a skin, and as they grow they lower them- 
 selves into the top of the oviduct. After the egg is severed 
 from the ovary it has to pass through the oviduct or egg- 
 passage, which is from 1 2 to 19 inches long. I have found 
 it 7 inches longer in some fowls than in others. In some it 
 has been known to measure 23 inches long. It is while the 
 egg is passing through this pipe, or passage, it is shelled. 
 The egg-passage does not lie in one straight line, but is 
 constructed much the same as the entrails of a fowl are, 
 rather more of a S or pothook shape. If an egg is examined 
 in a fowl before it leaves the ovary there will be found some 
 
i83 
 
 small blood veins upon it. These pass from the egg before 
 it passes into the oviduct. Should a hen be startled or very 
 much frightened, or over-reach herself, the little blood- 
 vessels become ruptured, This is the cause of small, dark 
 spots being found in a new-laid egg ; they are usually found 
 at the large end of the egg, not in the yolk, but at the top 
 of it, just between the yolk and white. Sometimes it is 
 caused by the male birds being too heavy. When these 
 spots are found in a boiled egg people think they are not 
 new laid, and that they have been sat on. In some cases 
 they are as large as a pea. After a hen has been very 
 frightened, sometimes a shell-less egg breaks in the egg-pas- 
 sage. When this is the case the fowl may be seen standing 
 very erect with her tail down and head up. The feathers 
 are usually wet behind, while the other part of her plumage 
 looks very rough. If not attended to, fowls often die when 
 this occurs. They are usually found dead on the nest, and 
 the cause of death is frequently put down as egg-bound, 
 when it is really the skin of the soft egg left in the egg pas- 
 sage. This irritates the fowl and causes her to strain, as she 
 cannot pass it. This causes a rupture of the egg-organs, 
 and often of the body, too, and is often the cause of the 
 laying-hen being so large and down behind. When any of 
 these symptoms appear, the hen should be caught and 
 examined. The skin of the egg can usually be found just 
 inside the egg passage, occasionally it is already protruding ; 
 if so, it can easily be withdrawn by gently pulling it when 
 the hen endeavours to pass it. It must be done very 
 steadily, if not, it will break inside. When it is broken in- 
 side it can be withdrawn by tweezers ; a small piece of 
 linen rag should be tied on the end of the tweezers and a 
 little oil put on the rag. When this is done, it is not so likely 
 to break the skin or hurt the fowl. If this precaution is not 
 taken, inflammation follows. This is partly caused by the 
 
189 
 
 hen straining herself. She should have a teaspoonful of 
 castor-oil and a little warm water given her, also a little soft 
 food (not much), so that she does not lay any more eggs 
 until the oviduct is strong again. If so, it causes irritation, 
 and the fowl becomes very ill. Ground oyster shells are 
 excellent things for laying-hens, as they answer two pur- 
 poses, viz., supplying material for making the shell, and 
 helping them to digest their food. Old mortar and cinder- 
 ashes are useful for them to pick up. When all these 
 remedies fail, bone-meal puts them right. I find nothing 
 to equal this. In the spring and summer I use it with a 
 little ground oyster shell mixed in the soft food every day, 
 in the autumn and winter three or four times a week. One 
 single handful is sufficient for twelve fowls. Since I have 
 used this meal I scarcely ever see a soft egg with all my 
 fowls, and rarely have any ruptured birds — not more than 
 three out of 400. A very small quantity will keep the egg 
 organs in good order. If only given them three times 
 a week it helps them very much. Some people give laying 
 hens lime water. I always find if it is something to help 
 them digest their food it is better for them. 
 
 COMB DISEASE. 
 
 This disease is rather a peculiar one, or perhaps I ought 
 to say it comes in various forms and from various causes, 
 and is very troublesome when it attacks the fowls. I cannot 
 say what it arises from in the first place, whether it is a chill 
 of the blood or overheat. When a fowl is killed and the 
 disease is well developed, the blood is almost black, but at 
 the same time the cause cannot always be traced, as in some 
 cases when the fowls have diphtheric roup very badly the 
 comb disease comes on. Of course this is when the blood 
 is very much out of order, and at other times when fowls 
 
1 90 
 
 are to all appearance in good health. I have known them 
 lay when they have been almost blind with the comb disease. 
 In many cases it does not affect the fowls' appetites if taken 
 in time. If the fowls have a touch of liver disease death is 
 almost certain, but if free from this they can be cured and 
 the disease stamped out. The symptoms do not always 
 show themselves in the same form," but in most cases it 
 appears in little white spots on the comb, sometimes on the 
 eye and wattles, and in a few cases on the neck, but the 
 latter is very rare. It should be attended to at once, as it 
 is very contagious. The affected birds should be removed 
 quite away from the others. As these white spots develop 
 they become much the same as warts in appearance, and as 
 they get worse they come like a fungus and spread rapidly 
 if not checked. When they appear round the eyes they 
 entirely close them in about three days. I have tried many 
 things for this disease. As an outward application I have 
 found nothing better than Jeyes' Disinfectant. It is a liquid.' 
 (Refer to advertisement at end of this book.) I have found it 
 a certain cure if the fowl has no other disease. A feather 
 should be stripped within half an inch of the end, so that it 
 does not hold too much, and just touch each place, so that 
 the liquid does not run down too far, as it is very strong. 
 .Should it run on the fowl's face or comb where there are 
 no spots it should be wiped off with a piece of linen rag. 
 Each spot should be touched with oil ; either sweet or salad 
 oil will do. Each bird should have not less than half a 
 teaspoonful of Roup Powder in one day ; in bad cases 
 three parts of a teaspoonful is not too much, especially if 
 the affected bird is a cock. It is well to mix the powders 
 with a little flour and oatmeal, not less than half a table- 
 spoonful of each. If the patient is very ill, and cannot eat, 
 a double quantity of meal may be used, as food they must 
 have. Give the fowls one teaspoonful of castor oil each 
 
191 
 
 for the first two or three days. When the fowls are taken ill 
 it is advisable to dress them twice a day, and also give the 
 pills above-mentioned. After they reach the turn once a day 
 is sufficient. If the above remedies which I have men- 
 tioned are given, the spots will come off like scales, quite 
 clear, so that the comb and face get quite well again, and 
 nothing can be traced. If neglected it is almost certain 
 death, and will become a fearful epidemic, as it is so con- 
 tagious. If fowls have anything the matter with their livers, 
 followed by this complaint, they fall victims to it. In such 
 cases some may think it is scrofula breaking out outside the 
 skin. I have heard this remark, but do not think it is so. 
 Where there are many fowls kept it is best and safest to 
 kill the birds which are affected with it at once, in case of 
 it breaking out in other pens, or take the birds quite away. 
 It is well to purify each bird in the house in which the 
 disease broke out. The best way of doing this is to add 
 one teaspoonful of Jeyes' Disinfectant to one pint of water, 
 and sprinkle in the feathers ; or a better way is to rub part in 
 with the hand, and sprinkle the other about the fowlhouse. 
 Give the unaffected fowl some Roup Powder. Proportion : 
 One teaspoonful to six hens. When treated in this way it 
 seldom spreads any further, if taken in time, and a pre- 
 ventive is better than a cure. I cannot say how long this 
 disease has been in our country, but it did not come under 
 my notice until the past two years. It has broken out in 
 many parts of the country, and many fowls have been lost 
 through it, although it is comparatively little known. It is 
 well for all poultry -keepers to acquaint themselves with 
 the symptoms of diseases, and then if any disease appears 
 in their poultry they know how to treat. If they keep clear 
 so much the better. I have known £50 worth of fowls die 
 of this disease for the simple reason that their owners did 
 not know how to treat it 
 
192 
 
 FEA-THER-EATINa. 
 
 This habit is very common with fowls that are confined 
 in small runs, and if not checked early becomes \ery serious. 
 I have seen fowls quite naked about the neck, breast, and 
 back, and in the summer they will peck each other until the 
 blood runs. I cannot always account for feather-eating, but 
 neglected fowls are most subject to it. A good supply of 
 green food and oyster-shells, and a little corn scattered in 
 the runs with soil sprinkled over it, are excellent modes of 
 giving the fowls exercise and keeping them employed. Of 
 course this is a good thing, but it does not always stop them 
 from feather-plucking. I have never known so many 
 feather-pluckers as there are in this year (1885) j even on'N 
 farms they do it. I had not had a single feather-plucker in 
 my yards until this spring, wheji I had two. I killed them as 
 soon as I detected which they were. The best way of find- 
 ing them out is to stand some distance away, out of their 
 sight, when the sun is shining, and the fowls are cleaning 
 themselves ; then the feather-plucker does her work. They 
 generally commence in the spring on the feathers about the 
 head, and this is caused by their pecking at the nits from 
 vermin, which are generally found round the head and 
 upper part of the neck. The fowls persist in pecking at the 
 nits until the feathers come out, when they at orxe swallow 
 them and repeat the operation. In a few days the quills 
 begin to grow, and the feather-pickers observing the quills 
 with the moisture in them, which consists principally of 
 glutinous matter, peck them out also, and therefore keep 
 the fowls quite bare if left with them. The first thing to be 
 done towards effecting a cure is to remove the feather- 
 pluckers at once, and place them in a coop by themselves 
 for a._ fortnight, and, as a rule, this will stop them. If, 
 however, they persist in feather-plucking after they come 
 
193 
 
 out, they should be put with a hen that has had the feathers 
 on her neck cut short and covered with mustard mixed stiff 
 with vinegar, or other hot substance. The taste of mustard 
 will cure all but the most inveterate feather-pluckers, and if 
 it fails the best thing is to kill them at once. Steps should, 
 of course, be taken to rid the other hens of the nits on their 
 feathers, as described in the paragraph on vermin. I have 
 prepared powders especially for poultry and all dumb 
 animals, to destroy all insects, and at the same time harm- 
 less to the fowl or animal it is put on. If a small piece is 
 cut off the end of the top beak and the sharp edges of the 
 sides of the same and the edges of the bottom beak also, 
 they cannot pluck the feathers, as when they go to pick 
 them they slip through their mouths. This is a certain 
 cure. It does not prevent them from eating their corn. 
 If any one will bring a hen to my office I shall be pleased to 
 cut the beak and show them. Care should be taken not to 
 cut too deep, and then it does not hurt the bird in any 
 way. 
 
 CONSUMPTION. 
 
 There may often be noticed two or three chickens moping 
 about with long beaks and pale faces, while the wings 
 appear too long, often drooping to the ground, and the 
 chickens are sometimes too weak to walk. Dorkings and 
 Hamburghs when bred-in too much are very liable to this 
 disease, and when other birds are affected it is often for 
 want of fresh blood in the poultry yard. If taken in time 
 the chickens may recover, but as they are seldom of much 
 good, and take up the room of healthy birds, it is the wisest 
 plan to kill them at once, as it saves much time and trouble. 
 Cod-liver oil, sulphate of iron in the water, and other 
 
 o 
 
194 
 
 strengthening tonics, are the best things to use for those 
 desiring to try and effect a cure. 
 
 Roup Powder will be found very efficacious in this com- 
 plaint. 
 
 DIARRHCEA. 
 
 The cause of diarrhoea cannot always be traced, as it 
 arises from various causes. Sometimes it is debility ; at 
 others it is a thunderstorm. Very stale meat will bring 
 it on, or corn or meal that have been lying by for a long 
 time, and the mites have taken their share out of it. Corn 
 that is full of small holes should not be given to poultry ; 
 'f it is, other good corn should be mixed with it, as what 
 are commonly called mites have made these holes, and 
 taken most of the nutriment out of the corn. If fowls are 
 short of sharp grit, the liver does not act properly, and this 
 brings on diarrhoea. The excrements are of a yellowish 
 colour when this is the case. If fowls are fed irregularly 
 {i.e., half starved one day, and the next a quantity of food 
 allowed to lie by them), and also kept short of water, 
 they become very thirsty, and when they have the oppor" 
 tunity they drink a large quantity of water. This brings not 
 only diarrhoea, but also ruptures their crops. Too much 
 soaked bread given to young chickens will bring it on. 
 They should have a little meal mixed with it This will 
 prevent diarrhoea. If this complaint is not stopped, or 
 rather something given to the birds to relieve it, they 
 become very thirsty, and lose their appetite, and their 
 plumage looks rough, and at the same time they move 
 about very stiffly as though hurt in some way. Broody hens 
 are very subject to this complaint, as they usually drink too 
 much water, and do not have sufficient grit to digest their 
 
195 
 
 food. The hen leaves her nest, and in many cases dies. 
 This is not only the loss of the hen, but also the eggs, and 
 disappointment of losing the prospect of chickens for the 
 want of knowing how to treat her. Very hot weather will 
 bring diarrhoea on in chickens. When this is the case, 
 they ought not to have water, but the food must be nice 
 and moist, and the corn boiled occasionally. When a hen 
 has the diarrhoea she ought to have a teaspoonful of castor 
 oil given her. A cock should have one teaspoonful and a 
 half (chickens in proportion to their size). Also give one 
 heaped-up teaspoonful of powdered chalk, and half ditto of 
 ground ginger. In addition to this I give a quarter of a 
 teaspoonful of Roup Powder a few hours after to each 
 bird. I have not known this remedy fail yet. It is very 
 seldom it has to be repeated, unless the fowls are very 
 much out of order. If a fowl will eat, the ginger, &c., can 
 be mixed in the soft food ; if not, it must be made into 
 pills with a Uttle baked flour ; not oatmeal. Sometimes if 
 a fowl is neglected dysentery sets in. In this case use 
 about five drops of chlorodyne for a hen and seven for a 
 cock. It is best given on a piece of loaf sugar j some- 
 times it requires two pieces. A teaspoonful of water should 
 be^ given after ; not quite cold, just tepid. When fowls 
 have had diarrhoea, it usually leaves ' them in rather a weak 
 state. They should not only have a tonic, but also a 
 stimulant. The Roup Powder will be found one of the 
 best things to get the fowls' strength up again. It brings 
 them along quickly, and they are usually in full lay in a 
 week or two. For a day or two the patierit should not 
 have much corn, but chiefly soft food. A little corn should 
 be given, as that does not pass through them quite so 
 quickly, and it helps to stay the other food. I have not 
 found the chalk and ginger fail for young chickens. A 
 brood of ten from a fortnight to three weeks old can have 
 
 O 3 
 
196 
 
 about the same quantity as prescribed for a hen. It can 
 be given according to age. If they have a little overdose, 
 it will not hurt them. 
 
 DROPSY IN THE ABDOMEN. 
 
 This disease is not often found in the poultry yard, not 
 one out of every hundred that is kept The symptoms are, 
 the fowl stands about very much by herself, and does not 
 care about eating soft food ; is very inactive, and large 
 behind. In bad cases they are very large, and sometimes a 
 little lame. The comb does not usually lose its redness ; 
 they look very much like a fowl which is ruptured. The 
 abdomen is very soft when examined, and the bird is 
 usually rather heavy. When they are in this state they 
 should be tapped. This can be done by making an in- 
 cision about an inch and a-half or two inches from the 
 passage, that is, the underneath part of the abdomen. A 
 small incision should be made with a lance or sharp pen- 
 knife. The first skin should be cut through carefully, and 
 the second skin looks very much like a bladder, that is, 
 with the water pressing against it. After this skin is cut 
 through the water will spirt. I tapped a hen this summer 
 of 1885, and took over a pint and a-half of water from her. 
 She soon recommenced laying, and is now quite healthy ; 
 the water did not accumulate again. (The water I took 
 out of her can be seen at my London office.) The hen 
 should be held for a few minutes for the water to drain 
 out ; then let her stand upon her legs, and hold her by 
 her wings, and in the struggle to liberate herself she forces 
 the water from her inside. The feathers should be wiped 
 as dry as possible, and a little oil put on the incision. 
 Then it should be sewn up with a fine needle and silk. 
 
197 
 
 There may be a few drops of water drain out after it is 
 sewn up, but it will soon cease. Two or three teaspoonfuls 
 of cold water should be poured down the hen's throat, and 
 a Roup Pill should be given. This acts as a stimulant to 
 the bird. Put it in a basket or coop for two or three days : 
 longer if in cold weather. If free from liver disease, the 
 bird will be quite right in a few days. A fowl that suffers 
 with liver disease is very subject to dropsy. If the bird is 
 only a common one it is not worth the trouble. 
 
 The affected bird can be brought to me. I will do it, 
 and show the owner how to perform the operation ; or 
 any other case of the kind should an operation be 
 necessary. 
 
 INFLAMMATION OF THE LUNGS. 
 
 This is a complaint fowls are subject to more or less, 
 though fowls may be kept for twenty years, and yet not 
 one may fail with it. At the same time, there are many 
 fowls die with it. I have tried many remedies for this 
 complaint, and have found warm stewed linseed one of the 
 finest remedies. Give a few spoonfuls as warm as the 
 fowls can take it, and keep the affected bird in a warm 
 room. One teaspoonful of glycerine should be given them 
 once a day. I have been trying an outward application 
 for this, and also when there is a little cold on the lungs, 
 and have found it. answer well — a little mustard and 
 vinegar mixed thin, rubbed on under the wing well up 
 against the base of the wing, about an inch from the joint 
 It is usually bare, as it is very seldom feathers grow there, 
 being just over the lungs. Tincture of arnica can be used 
 in the same way. The symptoms are — the breathing is 
 very bad, and at the same time the mouth is usually open, 
 and they appear to be in great pain, and usually drink a 
 
198 
 
 quantity of water if not very bad. If not relieved they 
 frequently close the eyes. It is not always inflammation, but 
 a cold, and the bronchiaLtubes are a little stuffed with fluid 
 I have found them full of icoal-dust and soot when I have 
 made a ^post-mortem examination, especially fowls which 
 have been. bred in a town. I. have mentioned the remedies 
 which may be used, whether it is inflammation or a cold. 
 Fowls after having recovered from this complaint should 
 be taken care of, and not be allowed to run out into the 
 cold air. 
 
 Fowls which are handled frequently open their mouths 
 and breathe hard. This is from fright. They should always 
 be handled as gently as possible, both the old and the 
 young ones. When they are being treated as I have 
 described, they should -be fed on soft food. 
 
 VERMIN. 
 
 When vermin prevail fowls never thrive, and I have 
 referred! to -this -subject several times, as it is most im- 
 portant that.poultry.should be kept quite free from them. 
 When the .chickens do not thrive without any apparent 
 cause, the best way; is to examine them for signs of vermin 
 about the. head and neck, as it is on these parts that, the 
 nits or eggs mostly appear. If any should be found, oil and. 
 tiurpentine mixed together are the best remedies, and these, 
 should be rubbed well into the feathers round the head 
 and neck.. This destroys . the nits. The Insect Powder is 
 a safe remedy for destroying these pests. It can be used 
 on chickens of all ages, and- is a certain cure. It does not 
 injure the fowls as many other things do, such as lime, 
 snuff, &c. These are apt to blind the birds. 
 
 The fowl should also be laid on its back^ and the whole 
 of the body, and especially the under part of the wings, 
 
199 
 
 should be thoroughly dusted with the powder, all the 
 feathers and skin being entirely covered. The fowls 
 should then have plenty of clean ashes to thoroughly clean 
 themselves. 
 
 When fowls have a plentiful supply of ashes or dust to 
 clean themselves in, they are rarely troubled with vermin, 
 especially if a little sulphur or common lime be added to 
 the ashes occasionally. 
 
 It is when hens are sitting they usually breed these. 
 Dust them well with the powder. 
 
DUCKS. 
 
 DUCKS are often kept, and as they are frequently mis- 
 managed, loss is the result instead of profit, but if 
 looked after properly they are very profitable and pay well 
 when reared for killing, as they are little trouble and grow 
 very fast. The Aylesbury breeders, who consist not only of 
 farmers but also of cottagers, are the most noted rearers of 
 ducks in this country, and many tons weight are sent to the 
 London markets. 
 
 It is more natural for ducks to have a pond in the breeding 
 season, and the eggs can be better depended upon fori 
 sitting ; but there are many who are very successful although! 
 their ducks have no water. 
 
 Ducks are good sitters but bad mothers, as they leave their 
 nests before all the eggs are hatched, taking the ducklings 
 that can walk to the nearest pond they can find, the result 
 being those left in the nest perish, while the others get the 
 cramp. It is, therefore, better to let a hen hatch ducks, as 
 
202 
 
 they require a mother for a very short period, and one hen 
 will take charge of twenty to forty ducklings at a time. 
 Ducks' eggs cannot always be depended upon, and should 
 therefore be examined; when they have been sat on for eight 
 days, and thos&' clear' removed. A very good plan, when 
 chickens are kept, is to substitute hens' eggs for those taken 
 away, and as ducks' eggs take twenty-eight days to hatch, 
 another hen set on hens' eggs at the time the unfertile eggs 
 are removed will hatch the same date, and can therefore take 
 all the chickens, leaving, the first hen set to take charge of 
 the ducks alone. 
 
 The best varieties to keep for domestic purposes are the 
 Aylesbury, Rouen, and Pekin. 
 
 Duck-keeping is very profitable when carried on by those 
 who understand it. Much more might be done and still pay 
 well, leaving aside the market question. If families would 
 rear them for their own consumption it would pay them, as 
 they are so hardy and but little trouble to rear, much less to 
 fatten. There are but few who dislike roast duck, and but 
 few who are able to have it unless it is a foreign, duck pur- 
 chased in the market at from is. 6d. to 2S. 6d. These are 
 very tough, and not to be compared with home-fed ducks. I 
 think that in a few years duck-keeping will become a more 
 general thing. // ought to. If cottagers were to rear them 
 for their own consumption it would pay them ; but a better 
 way is to sell a few to pay for their food, and the remainder is 
 the profit. Ducks ought to be food for thousands, whereas 
 they are only for hundreds now, as duck-food is cheap. 
 They are ready for the table very quickly ; the largest are 
 ready at eight weeks old. If more than one brood is reared 
 it should be at different periods ; if not, they all come in 
 together. If ducks are not killed when from nine to eleven 
 weeks old they lose weight in their duckling moult. It is 
 not every one who can keep stock ducks for laying ; this is 
 
203 
 
 quite another branch. There are many who would keep 
 them if they could dispose of the eggs. There are those 
 who live outside towns or in farm-houses who have water; 
 these can keep stock ducks. In fact there are many who do, 
 but have to sell their eggs for a penny each for eating pur- 
 poses. This is what I call a waste of good food. Stock/ 
 ducks can be kept without a pond of water, but the eggsj 
 from them do not hatch so well as when they have water.] 
 A tub or a zinc bath will answer this purpose if there is no 
 pond. The bath or tub can stand in the run with a plank 
 put on the top of it. The length of the same must be 
 according to the height of tub or bath, and just laid so that 
 the ducks can walk up it. Then a small piece of board 
 should be nailed on to the end of the plank, and small 
 laths across it ; this should go from three to six inches 
 into the water, so that the ducks can go down into the 
 water and get out of it without slipping. I do not recommend 
 ducks to be kept in a run with the fowls, as a rule, but if 
 they are, the ducks' water should be put in this way and the 
 fowls' water upon something, so that the ducks cannot reach 
 it. It should be put eighteen or twenty inches from the 
 ground, and one or two perches put for the fowls to stand on 
 to drink. One perch can be six or nine inches from the 
 ground and the other about sixteen. The water should be 
 first put on something so that the fowls can reach it from 
 the ground, and raised a few inches each day until it is in its 
 proper place. If it is done in this -way there will be but 
 httle difficulty in the fowls drinking, and, at the same time, 
 the ducks cannot reach it, as they will not get on the perches. 
 There may be one or two of the fowls drink out of the 
 ducks' water, but this is very seldom. If it is a zinc bath 
 that is used for the ducks, there should be a round hole cut 
 in the side of it near to the bottom. It can be either the 
 end or the sides. The hole should be well soldered round to 
 
204 
 
 make it strong, and a round wooden plug should be cut not 
 less than from four to six inches long, so that there is a good 
 handle to pull it out by when required. The end of the 
 plug should have a piece of strong linen or fine flannel round 
 it; this prevents any water from running out, and can be 
 easily withdrawn when required. When it is constructed in 
 this way the stale water can easily be emptied out. 
 
 A small house from 3 to 4 feet square is quite large 
 enough for a drake and four ducks. 
 
 Ducks differ very much in laying. Some have been 
 known to lay 150 eggs each per annum, and others not 
 more than 25 in the same time; but 80 eggs each per 
 annum is a very fair average, though many of them will lay 
 more. 
 
 Drakes can be distinguished from the ducks by one or two 
 curly feathers in their tails. These appear when about 
 fourteen or sixteen weeks old. If noticed when quite young, 
 they can be distinguished from each other as soon as they 
 lose their squeaking duckling noise. The young ducks will 
 have a clear and a loud voice and the young drakes a very 
 faint noise — a kind of scraping: — quite distinct from the ducks. 
 It is well to notice this when only ducks are required to be 
 saved for stock purposes, so that the young drakes can be killed 
 off early. I find young ducks thrive much better and grow 
 much faster if they do not have water to run in. Those I 
 breed for killing I do not allow tD go into the water at all. 
 There are many people who would rear young ducks but 
 think they cannot because they have no pond of water. 
 However, this is quite a mistake. 
 
 HATCHING AND REARING DUCKS. 
 
 Duck eggs take twenty-eight days to hatch, but if the hen 
 v/ duck does not sit close the first two days of incubation, 
 
205 
 
 they often go over twenty-nine days. If they are set very 
 fresh, especially after just having been laid, before they are 
 cold quite through, they will frequently hatch at twenty- six- 
 and-a-half or twenty-seven days. There are often a few 
 weak ones, which are much later than the others in coming 
 out, sometimes twelve hours after the first. In some cases 
 it is necessary to assist them, especially if the shell has been 
 cracked for some time and does not get any more forward. 
 The beak of the duckling usually lies near the large end of 
 the egg ; sometimes it is quite at the end. If it is just in 
 the centre of the egg the duckling frequently gets suffocated. 
 This can be partly remedied by freshly lining the nest two 
 or three days before the period expires for them to hatch. 
 A little iine sweet hay I find the best. The eggs should all 
 be removed out of the nest and the hay well beaten down 
 tight, so that it does not prevent the eggs from rolling when 
 the hen or duck returns to her nest, or when they are turn- 
 ing their eggs. It is well to take part of the eggs out of the 
 nest when the hen is returning to it, if time will permit, 
 especially about three days before the time expires for them 
 to hatch, as one or two of them frequently get broken. The 
 ducklings should not be taken away until they are dry, 
 unless a very warm place is provided for them. It is always 
 advisable to take the first hatched away ; if not, they are apt 
 to get out of the nest and, consequently, disturb the hen. 
 
 I usually feed young ducklings on hard-boiled eggs 
 chopped fine with a little biscuit meal or bread crumbs just 
 made a little moist, and after they are from fifteen to twenty- 
 four hours' old they will usually eat nicely, unless it is a few 
 of the weak ones. Care must be bestowed upon them, as 
 it is rather difficult to get them to eat, as they cannot be fed 
 like young chickens (by the hand). I find it best for the 
 weak ones to have a little flat tin or saucer. Put a little 
 water in it and then sprinkle a little coarse oatmeal in it 
 
206 
 
 (small groats will answer the same purpose). Dip their 
 little beaks in the water, and as soon as they can taste -it 
 they begin to drink, and as the oatmeal swims on the top 
 they are obliged to swallow a little. In the cold weather I 
 use warm milk in the same way. This past year I have 
 given them a shallow vessel with a little water in it, and then 
 sprinkled a few groats (the inside of oats) in it. This saves 
 any waste, as not a particle can be wasted when done in this 
 way. I have not given any water except thus, as the oat- 
 meal sinks to the bottom, and sparrows, rats and mice are 
 all deceived. A little fine middlings, with barley, buck- 
 wheat and maize meals may be used, and make very good 
 food. In the cold weather it is well to give all the food as 
 hot as they can eat it, as then they grow so much faster. A 
 little boiled corn is excellent for them after they are a month 
 old. Change their food from the mixture of meals mentioned 
 to biscuit-meal, which should be scalded with boiling water 
 and be given to the ducks quite warm. If the ducklings' 
 soft food can be mixed with milk they grow much faster. I 
 always give my ducklings as much as they can eat of the 
 mentioned foods up to six weeks old, and the last twelve 
 or fourteen days I use a little of my Fattening Powder. 
 Rough fat or any kind of meat is very beneficial mixed in 
 the soft food, if it can be procured reasonably. It should 
 in all cases be quite sweet. At farmhouses where there is 
 plenty of skim milk and good warm outhouses, a good 
 business could be carried on, as ducks are so much less 
 rouble to bring up than chickens, requiring less attention 
 and room. 
 
 If ducks are kept over nine or ten weeks old they usually 
 lose weight after that age, as they shed out their feathers > 
 this is called the ducklings' first moult. 
 
 White ducks should be bedded down on straw, as the 
 moss-peat stains their plumage. Stock ducks after they have 
 
207 
 
 laid and are going through their moult, usually take a long 
 rest. They should not be over-fed, and should have little 
 or no maize, as if they do they become very fat internally, 
 and this prevents them from laying as early as they other- 
 wise would. 
 
 Where many ducks are kept it is well to use brewers' 
 grains. Mix them with good middlings ; if these are not 
 good use a little barley-meal with them. In some districts 
 small potatoes can be purchased cheap (farmers usually have 
 some of their own). If these are boiled and mashed up 
 when hot and mixed with middlings or meal of some kindi 
 they make a cheap food, which is very good to bring the 
 young ducks on. A little salt should be given in their food, 
 especially when potatoes are used. Turnips, mangold 
 wurtzel, or any kind of vegetable refuse can be boiled up in 
 the same way. It not only makes a cheap food, but is 
 much better for them than all meal and corn. 
 
 In the winter, when ducks' eggs are so valuable, great care 
 should be taken in feeding and management, as they pay 
 well for it. They should be put in a fairly warm house, well 
 ventilated, and have warm water given them to drink in the 
 morning, and their food as hot as they can eat it. If tripe, 
 liver, or paunches are purchased and boiled and cut up they 
 help very much. The water they are boiled in can be used 
 for mixing the soft food for the morning meal. A little bone- 
 meal and Laying Powder should be mixed in it. Meat 
 should be given at midday, and corn in the evening. Ducks 
 can be fed after it is dark in the winter months when eggs 
 are required. It is well to feed them about seven o'clock 
 at night. If the corn is boiled and given to them as warm 
 as they can eat it, say three or four times a week, it helps 
 them very much. The best grains for ducks are good oats, 
 nothing less than 40 lbs. to the bushel, and 42 lbs. or 44 lbs. 
 if they can be obtained, and good wheat, about 60 lbs. to 
 
208 
 
 the bushel. Barley and French buckwheat may also be 
 used, making a change. Maize should not be given until 
 they lay, then a little will not hurt them. Boiled rice is also 
 good for a change, and is cheap. Where there is not plenty 
 of sharp grit, it is well to put a little ground oyster shells in 
 a small drinking vessel for the laying ducks. When offal 
 meat cannot be obtained, granulated meat or greaves can 
 be used. It can be scalded with boiling water and then 
 mixed with the other meat. Some boil it, but this is un- 
 necessary. It is well to give them a little green food. 
 
 If ducks are treated as I have described they will lay all 
 through the winter months. 
 
 AYLESBURY. 
 
 This breed is celebrated for table purposes j in fact they 
 are the best that can be kept for that purpose, especially if 
 required for the London markets, as there they command a 
 better price than any other breed. They thrive much 
 better at Aylesbury than any other place in England; 
 whether it is their practical management or not I cannot 
 say, for indeed Aylesbury ducks are bred nearly all over 
 the world, and yet those which are bred at Aylesbury are 
 usually first in all the leading show pens wherever they are 
 shown. They also command the longest price in the 
 London markets. The old saying is they will not thrive 
 unless they have the Aylesbury sand or grit ; in other word;?, 
 they will not thrive so well anywhere as at their original 
 place. This I have proved to be only a saying as regards 
 ducks for the table, but in respect of breeding them for the 
 show pen they still remain unrivalled as regards my own 
 experience, although I intend to test them thoroughly. 
 They grow quickly where they have good attention. I have 
 had them weigh over six pounds before they were nine 
 
209 
 
 weeks old. Of course these were the largest. Aylesbury 
 breeders are what I call wise people, as they usually keep 
 the largest ducks they breed for their own stock purposes, 
 which of course pays them in the end. Some of them are 
 remarkably fine, larger than any I have before seen. A 
 pure Aylesbury duck cannot always be distinguished from a 
 cross-bred one. When an Aylesbury drake is allowed to 
 run with either Pekin, Rouen, or Cayuga ducks there will 
 be a few come exactly the same as the pure breed to out- 
 ward appearance, and are sold as the pure ; but when bred 
 from the fraud is discovered, as the offspring come coloured. 
 If bred from the Rouen cross they throw brown feathers, if 
 from the Cayuga cross black feathers, and if they have 
 Pekin blood in them they usually show it in their beak, 
 which will come yellow. This the pure Aylesbury should 
 be free from. There are some breeders use a little Pekin 
 blood so that the progeny may look larger, as their feathers 
 do not lie close, and consequently make the ducks 
 appear much larger than they really are. The description 
 of a pure Aylesbury duck is : Plumage quite white, and free 
 from a yellow tint ; bodies long, they should not be erect ; 
 their backs should be straight ; beaks large, and of a pale 
 tint, what is usually termed a flesh colour, quite free from 
 yellow ; the legs should be a pale yellow. If well bred they 
 are very large. It is only a few attain the size of those 
 seen in the show pens. I may here mention why this is. 
 It pays to breed Aylesbury ducks much better than most 
 other prize stock, as those that are required for the show 
 pen must be hatched eirly, and these fetch the longest 
 price in the markets ; hence the large breeders hatch out 
 hundreds, and only the very largest are selected for stock. 
 They are fed well and taken great care of. In some cases 
 persons have as many as from 50 to 100 reserved. Then 
 ihey select the best for exhibition. There is another 
 
2IO 
 
 advantage the Aylesbury breeders have. They go round to 
 farmers and cottagers and pick the very best out of 
 thousands that are bred, perhaps one out of a flock of from 
 two to three hundred. These large breeders give from /^i 
 to 30s. each for them. Mr. Weston has some very fine 
 ducks, and is one of the most practical men on ducks I 
 have met with. Mr. Fowler's name has stood very high on 
 the list of Aylesbury breeders for many years. I think I 
 am right in saying he has exported more Aylesburies than 
 all England put together. He has a very fine stock this 
 year. Ducks are hatched out all through the winter, spring, 
 and summer in Aylesbury. They only appear to be with- 
 out eggs, that is the larger breeders about two months in 
 the year, which is from the middle of August to the middle 
 of October. Ducks differ very much in laying, and cannot 
 be depended on like hens. Some years they will lay double 
 the number they will another — the same strains and often 
 the same ducks. Sometimes they will commence to lay 
 when from five to six months old, and at other times not 
 before nine or even ten months old. Where ducks have the 
 advantage of water they should not be let out too early in 
 the morning, especially when they first commence to lay ; 
 if so, they will save their eggs and lay them in the water, 
 and when once they have acquired the habit of so doing 
 they will hold their eggs for 24 hours, and then when they 
 are let out they will lay two eggs in the course of two hours. 
 If there is a grass field for them to run over to catch the 
 worms, and they are let out before it is well daylight, they 
 often get half their food in the early spring months if they 
 have a good range. This, of course, applies to all ducks. 
 If there is a pond it is well to run a piece of wire netting 
 round it, so that they cannot get into the water before a 
 certain time in the day ; this is when they do not lay before 
 they go out. Ducks usually lay early in the morning, from 
 
211 
 
 two to six o'clock. It is a very bad practice to leave them 
 out in the water all night as many farmers do. Ducks 
 usually lay every day until the whole batch is laid, and 
 then take a rest. They have been known to lay over 50/ 
 days in succession. They will frequently lay 20 and 30 j 
 days without intermission. They should have a good 
 supply of grit and shell-forming materials while they are in 
 full lay, if not the egg shells will be very thin, and many 
 will break during the period of incubation if under hens or 
 ducks. The Aylesbury sand contains all that is required 
 for making the shell and digesting the food at the same 
 time, that is if it is of the right sort. I have not analysed 
 it, but can see it contains a great deal of lime. There are 
 also small pieces of shell in it, and little pieces of bone, 
 much the same as the backbones of fish. I have not met 
 with anything like it with the exception of one place, which 
 is Chislehurst, in Kent, and this in most places is 10 feet 
 below the surface of the ground. It is well to use a little 
 of it in their soft food ; the large pieces should be picked 
 out previously. The Aylesbury people usually put it in 
 their water, that is where they are deficient of it. Duck 
 eggs are very dear at Aylesbury in December and January. 
 In these two months they do not study whether they are 
 from good bred ducks or not so long as they are from large 
 ducks. They give 12 s. a sitting for rearing them for the 
 London markets, as ducklings fetch a long price from the 
 middle of February to the end of April. When it has been 
 a sharp winter they have realised from i8s. to 26s. a pair. 
 Of course this price is only given for the best and the first in 
 the market. This price is handed to the breeders, after the 
 salesman 'has taken his commission. In i88i the best 
 realised the highest price mentioned (for the pair), and the 
 small ones i8s. per pair. They are usually sold when from 
 seven-and-a-half to nine weeks old. In the winter months 
 
 p 2 
 
212 
 
 there are many ducklings hatched and brought up entirely 
 indoors. Some have much better accommodation than 
 others — such as small barns and stables. Doubtless some 
 of them were built for the purpose. Most of them are 
 thatched, to secure warmth in the winter and coolness in 
 the summer. They have windows and good ventilation to 
 give when it is needed. They will keep from thirty to forty 
 in a place from 9 to lo feet square. In the spring and 
 summer they turn them out in the daytime in what the 
 Aylesbury people call "day sheds," just for an airing. 
 These little sheds or pens are made with boards from 1 2 to 
 18 inches high all round, with four or six posts, whichever 
 is necessary, and a few pieces of rough wood laid on as a 
 roof. In some cases they are nailed, and a little loose straw 
 put on to keep the sun from the ducks. They do not let 
 them stop out long as a rule, that is, according to the 
 weather. Three-day sheds have to do sometimes for six or 
 seven lots — let out alternately. Barley meal is the principal 
 meal which they use for fattening purposes, with fat and 
 granulated meat mixed with it. No doubt some have little 
 secrets of their own which they do not reveal to the public. 
 My way of rearing, feeding, and fattening will be found in 
 the chapter on this subject. 
 
 PEKIN. 
 
 This breed is often taken for the Aylesbury ducks, be- 
 cause they are white in plumage. Their beaks and legs are 
 different from the Aylesburies, as they are a bright orange 
 colour ; the shape of their body is also quite different. They 
 carry themselves much more erect, in very much the same 
 position as geese. There is a yellowish hue on their 
 plumage. It is sometimes spoken of as a yellowish cast. 
 
213 
 
 Their feathers are also longer and do not lie so close, 
 which gives them quite a diflferent appearance to the 
 Aylesbury. They look much larger than the latter breed, 
 but in reality they are not. There are some excellent layers 
 to be found amongst this breed. 
 
 As a rule they are the best layers of any breed ; but at 
 the same time there are some inferior layers to be found 
 amongst them ; but taking the average they are the best 
 layers. If an amateur desires to start keeping a breed of 
 ducks for the table, that is, requiring to breed from them 
 again, and wants hardiness combined, have the pure Ayles- 
 bury, and then they can be crossed with either Pekin, 
 Rouen, Muscovy, or Cayuga. The largest ducks I have 
 bred were from a cross between Aylesbury ducks and a 
 Muscovy drake. At eight weeks old, three young ones 
 turned the scale at i8^ lbs., at ten weeks old the same 
 three weighed 23-^ lbs. They were not shut up one day ; 
 they were running about in an orchard and fed just the 
 same as the fowls. They were hatched late in the season, 
 viz., the 29th of August. That is the time of the year 
 when many say young ducks do not thrive. This is one 
 reason why I tried the experiment so late. I also have 
 some this year hatched about the same time, and they are 
 doing just as well as last year. They sleep out in the open 
 and do not have an open shed to go in. I find all young 
 ducks much hardier when crossed, although there is no 
 difficulty in rearing the pure ducklings. Pekin and Ayles- 
 bury make a good cross both for laying and table purposes. 
 All come white in plumage. When the Rouen is crossed 
 with the Pekin or Aylesbury a few come all white, and one 
 or two may come all brown. If the Cayuga is crossed with 
 any other variety many of them come black, especially if a 
 Cayuga drake is used. I do not recommend this cross, as 
 they do not grow quite so fast as the other crosses, unless it 
 
214 
 
 is early in the season, as they fatten so quickly. One 
 Pekin drake may run with four ducks, or, if they have a 
 good pond of water, five are not too many. 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 This breed are brovra, and do not show the dirt when 
 they have no water to wash themselves in. They can be 
 kept in a town with advantage in this respect. They are 
 very hardy. The colour of the plumage (in the duck) is 
 brown, pencilled with a darker brown. The head and 
 upper part of the wing are rather lighter, the centre of the 
 wing being a dark green, edged with white. The drake 
 has a dark green head, and about half the neck is the same 
 colour. They ought to have a white ring round the neck, 
 just at the bottom of the green. , The lower part of the 
 neck is a reddish brown. The breast and lower part of the 
 body is of a light drab, the back dark. Their beaks are 
 dark. This breed thrive more in the North of England, or 
 it may be they get better care. I do not like them for lay- 
 ing when in their pure state, as they are bad in this respect. 
 I do not find they lay so well as the other mentioned breds 
 do. When crossed with either the Pekin or Aylesbury they 
 make good layers, and also good for table. This breed is a 
 great favourite with some breeders. The drakes are very 
 handsome. 
 
 MUSCOVY. 
 
 This breed is rather pecuhar both in colour and forma- 
 tion. The drake is very much larger than the duck, weigh- 
 ing almost as heavy again. The colour of them is black 
 and white, not variegated, but in large patches ot each 
 colour. The head of the drake is very large, the side of the 
 
2'5 
 
 face is naked, and a scarlet fleshy space round the eye, and 
 on the top of the beak is also a red fleshy substance ; a part 
 of the beak is dark. The drake is devoid of the curly 
 feathers in the tail which most other drakes have. The 
 male sex is rather spiteful to fowls and to the ducks if he 
 does not take to them. These ducks will at times kill 
 chickens. 
 
 The duck is the same colour as the drake, but not so 
 bright in beak and face. The ducks are not such good 
 layers as other breeds. I like the Muscovy drake to cross 
 with Aylesbury ducks. I have bred these for two years and 
 am very pleased with them, as they are a good weight at an 
 early age, heavier than any other ducks I have kept. I saw 
 one this summer which weighed gj lbs. at fifteen weeks old, 
 which was not shut up to fatten but ran with the hens. 
 
 The flesh of the Muscovy when in their pure state is rather 
 dark, and not the best of flavours, but when crossed with 
 the Aylesbury they eat splendidly, with an excellent flavoun 
 and the size is marvellous, as they look more like geese than 
 ducks. There is one drawback with them : there is rather 
 a large proportion of the eggs unfertile, but those which are 
 fertile make up for the others, as they grow so quickly and 
 attain such a large size. 
 
 OAYUGA. 
 
 This variety is little known in comparison with other 
 breeds. Their plumage is black, some call it a dark green 
 on account of the lustre on their plumage, which is very 
 glossy, being of a dark green tint, more especially the drake. 
 Both sexes are the same colour ; the drake is a little larger. 
 This breed are very fair layers of rather small eggs, as the 
 ducks are rather small. They fatten quicker than any breed 
 I have yet kept. They are of splendid flavour, although 
 
2l6 
 
 rather dark in flesh. They are often kept as a fancy duck. 
 When crossed with the Rouen they attain a fair size, and 
 look very nice ; they grow fast, and are a good cross for 
 table. Some of the cross come black and others mudi the 
 same as the wild duck. They also fly similarly if kept fc 
 little away from the homestead. 
 
FATTENING DUCKS. 
 
 THIS is a small item as regards trouble. If the ducks only 
 have the food, and at the proper time, they are sure 
 to get fat. The following is the best food : Barley-meal and 
 sharps, with a little granulated meat or chopped greaves 
 mixed with it. When they are five weeks old give a little 
 sulphur and common salt, one teaspoonful of each, about 
 four times a week to six or eight ducks. This helps them 
 very much, and their feathers grow much faster. These are 
 to be given when they are from five to seven weeks old. 
 Give no sulphur a week or ten days before the ducklings 
 are killed ; if so, their flesh will taste. It helps them very 
 much to give a little rough fat and skim milk. If they do 
 not get on well, a little of the fattening powders, given about 
 six times the last twelve days, gives them a keen appetite, 
 and helps them to put on fat. In cold weather they reqttire 
 keeping warm, and then they fatten much quicker. 
 
HOW TO MAKE A DUCK POND. 
 
 -■s<iaPS3l35^^5a^'a*- 
 
 THERE are many who have a good space at their com- 
 mand, and yet have no pond for a pen of breeding ducks, 
 There are several ways of making a duck pond, but it depends 
 very much on where it is to be made and for how many ducks, 
 and also on the soil. I have known duck ponds which have 
 been made that require repairing every time there is a sharp 
 frost, which cracks the cement, letting the water through. 
 This pond, though cheap in the first instance, is very expen- 
 sive and also unpleasant. When it freezes sharp the earth 
 swells, and in this way raises the cement up and causes it to 
 crack. These cheap ponds are made by simply cutting the 
 earth out basin-shape and then putting a layer of cement 
 about an inch thick. This is not sufficient, and having them 
 made in this way is only a waste of money. 
 
 I will describe the best way I know to make a duck pond 
 (a substantial one). They can be made any size and depth. 
 A pond about 6 feet by 4 feet is large enough for ten ducks, but 
 if there is likely to be more it is best to make it larger. A 
 
220 
 
 pond of this size is large enough for two pens of ducks. If 
 they are of two different breeds the pond should be divided 
 in the centre by wire netting. When there is a pond ready 
 for use now, it can be divided by wire netting, and several 
 breeds kept. Of course, they must have separate runs. 
 
 Some people prefer a deep pond, but a shallow one is 
 much better in one respect, viz., it can be drained out better, 
 and it takes so much less water to fill it. About i ft. 6 in. 
 or 2 ft. is as deep as ducks require. 
 
 Whatever size the pond is to be, it should be cut or made 
 about six inches larger than intended to be. If it is to be 
 4 ft. wide and 6 ft. long, it should have the outsides a little 
 on the slant, viz., the top should be cut 6 ft. 6 in. 
 and the bottom 6 ft. ; this is the measurement from end 
 to end. The sides should be cut in the same way, 4 ft. 6 in. 
 at the top and 4 ft. at the bottom, this to be measured from 
 side to side. When made in this way it is a little on the 
 slant, and the sides are not so liable to fall in in case any 
 weight or pressure should be brought to bear upon them> 
 such as a horse, or cow, or a cart wheel. 
 
 After the pond is cut in this way, the bottom should be 
 concreted three or four inches thick. The concrete can be 
 made with lime and gravel, or any kind of stones, only they 
 should not be too large. It is well to break the largest, as 
 then they bind so much better. Any kind of brick rubbish 
 or hard clinkers will answer the same purpose. Cement, of 
 course, can be used, but it is more expensive. It is rather 
 more substantial, but the lime makes a very good pond. A 
 little sand or road scrapings should be mixed with the lime, 
 as this acts as a binder. If cement is used for the bottom, 
 2 J inches will be thick enough; if lime, 3^ inches. A pipe 
 of some kind should be let into the bottom so that the water 
 can easily be drained out when required. It is well to have an 
 iron pipe laid in so that the bottom part of the pipe is one 
 
221 
 
 inch lower than the bottom of the pond. Have a good-sized 
 pipe, either four or six inches, then it does not get blocked 
 The water will all run out easily, together with all the sedi- 
 ment. It is well to brush and stir it up with a broom while 
 it is running out. If the water has to run far, a clay pipe 
 can be used ; this is much cheaper. It should be a little on 
 the slant, then the pipe keeps clean, as the force of the 
 water clears it. The posts should be put in before the 
 bottom concrete is laid. They do not require putting in 
 deep, as there must be some cross-pieces to keep the sides 
 firm when the concrete is put in. The boards should be 
 placed three inches from the sides of the pond (according 
 to the thickness intended for the walls), then the concrete 
 should be put in all round. These boards form a mould. 
 Let it lie a few days before the boards are taken down, then 
 it will have set hard. When the boards are taken down and 
 the posts drawn out, the holes should be filled up with 
 cement or good concrete. After the boards are taken away 
 the surface of the concrete is rough. It should not be left 
 thus ; if so, the stagnant dirt will cling to it, and then it 
 cannot be cleansed. It is best to piaster it over with clear 
 cement, thus giving it a clear and hard surface which will 
 stand both water and frost, and can easily be cleaned. 
 
 The pond can be filled by means of a gutta-percha pipe 
 fastened to a tap. A better way, of course, is to have the 
 water laid on so as to have a tap to run into the pond. In 
 some places there is no water laid on. In this case it is 
 well to connect, so that the water from the outbuildings runs 
 into the pond. Then it requires to be emptied occasionally. 
 This cannot well be done by a tap, as the grit gets in and 
 spoils it, so that it leaks, whether it is wood or brass. I find 
 the best and easiest plan for this purpose is to have a piece 
 of wood about a yard long, a little larger than the pipe 
 quite round, sharpened a little at the end; then wrap a 
 
222 
 
 piece of strong linen or flannel round it. Just knock it in 
 gently, so that it is firm. This usually acts splendidly, and 
 is no trouble to repair, only to put another cloth round it 
 occasionally. 
 
 As ducks require both sand and grit, it should not be put 
 in the pond ; if so, it will get washed away when the pond is 
 cleaned out. A trough can be placed at the side of the 
 pond, or it can be so constructed that the trough is in the ' 
 pond, just underneath the surface of the water. This can 
 be done by putting some iron rests into the concrete walj 
 for the trough to rest on. When constructed in this way it 
 is very convenient for the ducks, as corn can be put in as 
 well as grit. In this way Aylesbury sand and grit can be 
 given them. 
 
 If fowls are not allowed to run with the ducks, the pond 
 may be made so that there is a sloping place for the ducks 
 to walk down into it. If fowls are kept with them, it is best 
 to have a little plank ladder (a board with little pieces of 
 lath nailed across it). This prevents the ducks from slip- 
 ping. It should reach 3 in. or 4 in. in the water. Then the 
 ducks will usually get on it when they want to leave the pond. 
 
 If an ornamental duck pond is required, it should be 
 made a little deeper, and not filled up to the top. In this 
 way tree roots, old stumps and pieces of rough wood can be 
 embedded in the concrete in a rustic manner, and then the 
 large common ferns planted, such as break fern and nest 
 fern. Both these ferns grow up very large, and spread out, 
 partly covering the rustic work. A few rushes may also be 
 planted. These are very hardy, and grow fast. It not only 
 gives the pond a nice appearance, but makes it nice for the 
 ducks to shelter themselves under. It gives the pond quite 
 an ornamental appearance. It can be done in one year. If 
 planted before March they will grow up beautifully the same 
 summer. ^ 
 
TURKEYS. 
 
 TURKEYS are not bred so largely as geese, as they are 
 not so hardy. They are to be found more generally 
 in Norfolk. They are like most other things, they thrive 
 best when well looked .after. They pay well, but are rather 
 delicate, and require generous treatment when young, as 
 they pay for the extra trouble bestowed upon them. In- 
 breeding is very fatal to Turkeys. Some of the young ones 
 droop their wings and die before they are two months old. 
 It is a very trying time for them when their feathers are 
 growing, especially the breast feathers. Young turkeys 
 require more attention than chickens do, being more deli- 
 cate when hatched. When hatched they should have hard- 
 boiled eggs, boiled rice, and oatmeal, all mixed together. 
 After they are two days old they should have a little onion cut 
 up and mixed with it. A little ground ginger is a fine thing 
 to mix with their food. Soaked biscuit meal is also an 
 excellent food for them. ' It should not be made too wet. 
 After they are a week old any of the below-mentioned herbs 
 
224 
 
 are good for them : Docks, chickweed, dandelions, and 
 young nettles. Onions can always be used with advantage. 
 If a few leaves of rue or hyssop be chopped up and mixed 
 with their food it gives them a keen appetite. Potatoes and 
 swede turnips boiled and mixed with their meal can be given 
 in the spring. When the mornings are chilly they should 
 have their food as warm as they can eat it, as they require 
 so much heat when young. They should not have any food 
 left by them, as it turns them against it. For the first 
 seven or ten days they should have groats, not the split, but 
 the whole ones, given dry. After this they can have a little 
 wheat and barley, and after they are six weeks old a little 
 round maize is good for them the last feed at night. They 
 thrive better if their food is varied. Barley, buck- 
 wheat, and maize meals mixed with sharps and small 
 potatoes, boiled, I have found form a very cheap 
 food for them, and it also suits them. They thrive very fast 
 if they have plenty of potatoes. It is well to mix a little 
 common salt and sulphur in their food about twice a week. 
 Half a teaspoonful of each is sufficient for eight or ten 
 turkeys a fortnight old, and more in proportion according 
 to age. If fed well after they have all their feathers they 
 grow fast. Where turkeys are reared there should be some 
 open sheds, so that the young ones can be kept in on wet 
 days and early in the mornings while the dew is on the 
 grass. If allowed to run in long grass on wet mornings 
 many are apt to succumb to an early death. Young turkeys 
 should be reared where sheep are kept, if possible, as these 
 keep the grass short, the long grass being sure to be fatal 
 to the weak ones. As large turkeys sell so much better 
 than small ones, they are usually sold at Christmas. Many 
 breeders make a g^eat mistake, as the largest birds should be 
 kept for breeding, as they are much stronger and will pro- 
 duce stronger offspring. They are much easier to rear 
 
22; 
 
 when bred from strong birds. It is a great error to sell the 
 largest young ones, although they will often fetch 5s. a head 
 more in the market. The foundation for the succeeding 
 year should not be forgotten. Where they are very fine 
 turkey cockerels they ought not to be killed, but sold for 
 stock purposes, or exchanged for another similar for breeding 
 purposes. This should be done amongst turkey breeders. 
 Fresh blood cannot be introduced too often, as the young 
 ones 'grow so much stronger, and good fat turkeys fetch 
 such a good price, especially if they are large. When well 
 fattened I have known them to weigh from 19 to 26 pounds 
 each, sometimes over this if attended to well when young. 
 They fatten much better if put in large sheds, not in coops, 
 as some do. The shed or building should be rather dark, 
 and if there is a window a curtain should be drawn before it 
 to keep it shaded. When fed it should be removed, as then 
 they must have good light. Give plenty of ventilation, and 
 keep them fairly warm. The house should be bedded down 
 with moss peat or straw. Short straw is the best. Rough 
 chaff will answer the purpose where it is on a farm, and 
 there is plenty of this without any outlay ; but if it has to be 
 purchased I prefer the moss peat, as that is more durable, 
 and keeps them sweet, and does not require to be cleaned 
 out once the whole of the time they are up to fatten if it is 
 put about three or four inches thick on the floor. They 
 should have some perches from two to three feet high. 
 Many of them perch part of the day, and plume themselves. 
 They are very fond of a dust bath to roll in. Moss peat 
 answers this purpose very well. They should have a large 
 trough to eat out of j length according to number fattening, 
 the width about seven inches. It can be made of wood or 
 galvanised iron, and should be small at the bottom and large 
 at the top. It should be placed about six or nine inches 
 high, and then there is no waste, as they cannot throw the 
 
226 
 
 lood out so well. The best meals for fattening are ground 
 oats and barley meal, with small potatoes boiled and mixed 
 with it The last fortnight they should have a little fat also 
 mixed with it. A little of my Fattening Powder helps them 
 very much. They can have boiled corn, either maize, wheat 
 or buckwheat, given for the evening meal three or four 
 times a week for a change. They do not require any water. 
 The question is often asked which breed is the best to keep. 
 The Cambridge speckled is a good bird to keep. The male 
 bird is of a bronze colour, and grows to a very large size, 
 but is delicate, unless fresh blood is introduced frequently. 
 When turkeys are only required for table purposes, it is 
 much the best to cross these with the Black Norfolk. The 
 produce are much hardier, grow faster, and usually make 
 much heavier birds. Size is the principal thing to obtain in 
 turkeys, as they are usually sold by weight. The Black 
 Norfolk are rather hardier than the Cambridge Bronze, and 
 are less trouble when young. Turkeys are of a different nature 
 to most other feathered tribes, as one male bird is suflScient 
 to run with from thirty to fifty hens. However, it is wise to 
 have two male birds in case anything should happen to one 
 of them, or he may fall ill just in the breeding season, and 
 time will then be lost, and especially if in the early part of 
 the season. When this occurs it is a serious loss to breeders. 
 It is much the best to have two turkey-cocks, and if they do 
 not agree, one should be shut up, and let out on alternate 
 days. In this way the fertility of the eggs is guaranteed. 
 On the other hand, if they disagree, and are not parted, the 
 greater part of the eggs will be unfertile. After the hens 
 have laid, and the eggs have been set, one of the male' birds 
 can be disposed of. Where turkeys are bred, there ought to 
 be a large cross of fowls kept, such as P. Rock-Dorking 
 or P. Rock-Brahma, as it is a loss of time to allow the 
 turkey-hens to sit. When one comes broody, she should be 
 
227 
 
 penned up and fed well for a few days, and she will soon 
 re-commence laying. The eggs should be taken out of the 
 nest every day, and one or two chalk eggs left remaining ia 
 As they are rather timid, it is best to make them a nest in 
 a dark corner. However, if they do not take to that, the 
 one they choose must be made comfortable ; if not, they are 
 apt to lay their eggs about where they are not likely to be 
 found. A turkey will usually lay from thirteen to seventeen 
 eggs before she will come broody, but if they are taken 
 Rway each day, and she is fed on warm stimulating food, 
 she will lay twenty-fii^e, and even thirty before coming 
 brqpdy. Feed them on warm food in the morning, and a 
 little flesh meat with their food, or granulated meat is very 
 good. A little of the Laying Powder mixed in the meat will 
 help them very much if it is a cold morning, and give hot- 
 boiled corn in the evening in the spring months. Some 
 people say this is forcing them to lay, and is not natural. 
 It is rather assisting nature to do her work, and the results 
 prove what is best. Turkeys' eggs take twenty-eight days to 
 hatch, but if the hen sits very closely they sometimes hatch 
 n twenty-seven days. On the other hand, if she does not 
 sit very closely, they will frequently go twenty- nine and even 
 thirty days. Turkey-cocks are sometimes very spiteful to 
 young chickens. They will frequently jump on them and 
 kill them. I have had them do this when the chickens have 
 been half-grown. It is well to keep the chickens separate as 
 much as possible. Turkeys should not be reared unless 
 time can be given to the young ones, as they require good 
 attention the first few weeks, and are like most other stock, 
 they pay for it. A dry and warm situation suits them best. 
 They require shelter from the cold east winds, especially the 
 first six weeks. 
 
 Q 2 
 
GEESE. 
 
 GEESE are but little kept in many parts of the country, 
 as the majority of farmers think they are very un- 
 profitable. They have paid me as well as any other poultry 
 I have ever kept. There is one disadvantage (or annoy- 
 ance), they make so much noise, I may say geese answer 
 the same purpose as a dog, for if there is a stranger about 
 they will let it be known. In this respect they are better 
 at times than dogs, as they are very quick of hearing. If 
 they are out at night or sleeping in an open shed they make 
 a very loud noise. A country resident should keep a few 
 geese where possible, as they are great enemies to burglars, 
 as they cannot entice them to be quiet as they sometiH>*3 
 do dogs. A fox cannot face them ; he will seldom stop to 
 take anything when he hears their noise. They will run 
 after a fox or dog, especially if it is a moonlight night 
 Geese should be kept in large numbers where land is cheap 
 They pay better than sheep, although the latter can be kept 
 
23° . 
 
 at the same time. Geese-returns are much quicker than 
 sheep ; the early-hatched ones realise a good price. The 
 retail price is lod. per pound when picked. I sold my 
 early geese at 7s. 6d. and los. each when eleven weeks old; 
 this was retail. Goslings are but little trouble to rear in 
 comparison with most other stock. Stock geese require 
 fwater, if not the eggs will not be very fertile. A small pool of 
 water will do, but it must not be shallower than 1 8 inches 
 or 2 feet. One gander to four geese is about the number. 
 If he is active five are not too many for him, but it is best 
 to be on the safe side and only allow four with him. It 
 is best to shut the stock geese up at night, especially if it is 
 frosty weather; if not they will not lay so early in the 
 season They can be fed on warm stimulating foods the 
 same as other poultry. Give the food as hot as they can 
 eat it. A little meat, greaves, granulated meat, or any kind 
 of offal meat mixed in the food is very good for them. 
 Give them boiled corn at night, as hot as they can eat it. 
 Maize and oats are very good grains for them ; wheat and 
 barley for a change. When this attention is bestowed on 
 them they lay from a month to five weeks earlier, and more 
 eggs The young goslings can be hatched earlier. Geese 
 treated in the manner I have described will lay more eggs 
 than if treated in the ordinary way. When the goslings are 
 hatched they ought not to run with 'the old gander ; if so 
 he will take such care of them that he will forget to pay 
 attention to the geese, and the eggs will be unfertile. 
 This happens more particularly to the Toulouse. When 
 geese are only required for table purposes I prefer them 
 crossed, as I find they grow faster andlatten quicker. The 
 Toulouse are a splendid breed. They usually go by the 
 name of " Grey Geese " with most farmers. They are very 
 upright in appearance, the lower part almost touching the 
 ground. I crossed the Toulouse geese last year with a 
 
231 
 
 Chinese gander, and the results were very good ; the young 
 ones were ready for table at 1 1 and 1 2 weeks old, weighing 
 from 9 to 1 2 pounds each. They eat splendidly ; all geese 
 do if well fed. There is not much difference in flavour of 
 pure breeds and crosses. The flavour and quality depend 
 on the feeding. When well fed they eat so very differently 
 to those which are bought, as those are usually from 1 5 to 
 20 weeks old. The Embden Geese are larger and rather 
 better layers than the Toulouse, though there is not much 
 difference if fed the same. The Embden are pure white, 
 with yellow beaks and legs. When crossed with the 
 Toulouse they make very large geese, grow fast, and fatten 
 well, and lay much better when crossed, though of course if 
 pure they make much more if sold for breeding purposes. 
 Why many people do not succeed with their geese is that 
 they breed from such very small stock, and their offspring 
 do not grow much larger than a good-sized duck. This 
 class of course does not fetch anything in the London 
 markets. The secret in breeding geese is to have fine 
 stock. It is not so much the breed, but the size. It is 
 best to have a good large gander, and also a pure-bred one. 
 Cross-bred geese can be bred from with good results if they 
 are fine large ones. There is a breed called Italian Geese. 
 They are principally white, with a grey head. They are 
 not large, but broad and very compact. Their plumage is 
 rather peculiar, much the same as that of a Silky hen, 
 between feather and down. There appears to be no quill 
 to the feather. This, of course, gives them a very short 
 appearance. They are remarkably hardy, and are excellent 
 layers. I intend to try this breed.. A gentleman kindly 
 sent me the results of three geese of this breed for the 
 spring and summer of this year (1885), viz., 240 eggs from 
 the three, and they had no special attoition to induce them 
 to lay this number. I hope to give a full account of these 
 
232 
 
 geese in the paper Poultry, which every poultry- keeper 
 ought to take in. It is only one penny per week. I believe 
 it to be the best paper of the kind, both for practical 
 information and reports of all the shows. I am told they 
 eat very mild, more like a young duck. This ' breed ought 
 to be cultivated more in our country, as they possess such 
 marvellous laying qualities, and at the same time are 
 excellent for the table. The egg table in geese is rather 
 low, as if they lay from 35 to 50 each in a season it is 
 considered good. A few may go over this number, but it 
 is more often under. This is one disadvantage, so few 
 eggs, and this is the more reason the Italian should be 
 cultivated, especially for crossing with the large breeds. I 
 trust the readers of this book who are interested in geese 
 will endeavour to cultivate this breed. The young ones are 
 as hardy as those of other breeds. I have not met with a 
 delicate breed of geese yet. When young goslings are 
 hatched they can have a little boiled egg or groats put in a 
 little water in something rather shallow, and a little biscuit 
 meal soaked. After they are two or three days old they 
 can have a Uttle barley meal and middlings. It is best to 
 give them a little biscuit meal and groats for a fortnight. 
 When done well by the iirst few days they are no more trouble. 
 There are many geese have nothing but grass from seven 
 or eight days old until they are put up to fatten. If size 
 is the object they should have a little meal twice a day, 
 and they will grow very quickly after they are six weeks 
 old. They can have a little corn at night ; any kind will 
 do, but they appear to do best on maize and oats when 
 they have sufficient grass. Geese are not like most other 
 feathered tribes in eating green food. After the old stock 
 geese have finished laying they can be turned out to grass 
 just the same as a flock of sheep or any other cattle. They 
 do not require corn until the winter comes on. Then 
 
233 
 
 they may have a few oats and not too much maize, if so 
 they get too fat internally. Brewers' grains mixed with a 
 little meal or middlings is a very good food for them. By 
 feeding in this way they keep in a good condition, and do 
 not get too fat. When December sets in they should be 
 fed on good meal and boiled corn, given as warm as they 
 can eat it. When fed in this way they will commence laying 
 four or five weeks earlier than if fed in the ordinary way. 
 Some geese do not lay until the end of February or 
 beginning of March. It is a waste of time keeping them 
 in this way. There is also another peculiarity in geese, viz., f 
 they usually lay better after the first season up to eight or I 
 ten years old; they have been known to lay up to 18" 
 years of age. Another advantage farmers who keep geese 
 have is they can drive them to the cornfields after the corn 
 is carried, and after they have been in for about a month or 
 five weeks they weigh nearly as heavy again as when first 
 turned in. The best of them should then be fattened and 
 sent to market. When fattening they should not be allowed 
 to go into the water, and are the best shut up in a shed 
 or outbuilding, and should be so that they cannot see the 
 others which are running at leisure. The best meal is 
 barley meal with fat mixed in, and maize put in their water 
 as grain. Geese pay well, and it is a pity to sec so much 
 waste land in our countr)'. Thousands of geese could be 
 kept where there is not one kept now. I went through a 
 village this spring where hundreds of acres were lying idle, 
 and not a goose kept in the whole village, and yet many 
 of the families were almost wanting for bread. It is a 
 great shame to our country that we pay foreign breeders 
 millions of pounds for poultry annually, which is received 
 by industrious and thrifty people the other side of the ocean 
 for what might be produced in our own country, and 
 improve the working classes. 
 
TO PRESERVE EGGS. 
 
 PUT into a tub or vessel one bushel of quicklime, two 
 pounds of salt, half-a-pound of cream of tartar, and 
 mix the same together with as much water as will reduce the 
 composition or mixture to that consistence that it will cause 
 an egg put into it to swim with its top just above the 
 liquid ; then place the eggs therein. Half the quantity will 
 do three or four hundred eggs. The eggs preserved in this 
 way will keep twelve months if required. 
 
 Another way is to butter the eggs as soon as they are 
 laid, and lay them in tissue paper and set them on the 
 small end. If buttered when warm they will keep four 
 months quite fresh. 
 
 Another way is to put them into sawdust as soon as laid 
 On the small end they keep two months in this way 
 
VARIOUS. 
 
 THERE may be some who think I have treated too 
 much on cross-bred fowls, or described too many 
 crosses, as the same thing appears so repeatedly. If per- 
 sons read the chapter on crosses and they happen to 
 keep birds which were not described there, they would be 
 disappointed. Some may think I have not treated on exhi- 
 bition fowls sufficiently. This would be almost impossible 
 in this small manual, and where there are fifty who keep 
 fowls for egg-production, there is only one who keeps them 
 for exhibition. Some may say they keep their fowls without 
 any condiment, and yet have eggs through the winter. This 
 of course can be done; but the way that answers best 
 must be proved. Refer to testimonials on the subject ; they 
 will prove which is the best. I must apologise for not put- 
 ting all the testimony in. This was impossible in such a 
 small book. I feel sure that 19 out of 20 of my Powder 
 
238 
 
 customers speak well for its use. I trust purchasers of my 
 Powder will examine the tins to see they have my name and 
 fitll address on, as I have found several persons tampering 
 with it. The reason why poultry spices and medicines get 
 such a bad name is, that if they do the birds any good they 
 leave them much weaker than before. When medicines 
 are prepared by such a man as Professor Woodroffe Hill the 
 purchasers may be sure they are having good value for their 
 money. His book on the Diseases of Poultry will show 
 this. It is published at 171, Fleet-street, E.G., at 2S. 6d. 
 It treats on diseases in a scientific manner, and is, I believe, 
 selling well. Poultry-keeping is becoming a leading feature 
 in our country, and, I am sure, will do so even more. In 
 1884 I sent out over 1,100 sittings of eggs for hatching, and 
 this year, 1885, over 2,020 sittings. This shows an increase. 
 
 When small chickens are found dead, and there is no 
 apparent cause, the water should be taken from them at 
 once. They can be reared without water. I know breeders 
 who never give them any, and they are very successful in 
 rearing them. I always give a good supply and find it 
 answer, but do not condemn the no- water system. 
 
 With the rapid increase of poultry-keeping there is a great 
 demand for poultry appliances, and I have been asked to 
 manufacture houses and all appliances, which I have done on 
 an improved style. Refer to advertisements for particulars. 
 I have been selling a poultry fountain made with zinc, 
 similar to other makers. This metal is not safe for poultry 
 and pigeons to drink out of where sulphate of iron, salt, or 
 any other acid is put in the water. There have been both 
 poultry and pigeons killed through putting these different 
 acids in the water. Drinking the water from zinc if no 
 acids are put in it does not affect the birds in any way. To 
 save any risk I am now having them made of galvanised 
 iron. I have the drinking fountains and feeding troughs 
 
239 
 
 made of the same materials. I have also a pigeon fountain 
 which can be taken to pieces to be cleaned the same as the 
 poultry fountain. It is what pigeon-fanciers have needed 
 for some time, for the birds have a good supply of clean 
 water, and they cannot drop their excrements in. 
 
 If there is any little thing I have omitted mentioning, I 
 shall be most pleased to give any hints and advice on receipt 
 of a stamped and addressed envelope. I give information 
 gratis at my London office, 105, Queen's Head-yard, 
 Borough, S.E., on Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 8 o'clock p.m., 
 arid on Monday from 2.15 p.m. to 6 o'clock. From 
 February to the first week in June I am at home every 
 Wednesday afternoon, and am pleased to show visitors round 
 my pens of poultry, and give a little advice on poultry 
 management if required. I have so many birds sent to me 
 for post-mortem examination, that I shall have to charge a 
 nominal sum of is. They must all be carriage paid. I 
 only dissect poultry, not cage birds or rabbits. I give the 
 full particulars of cause of death, and how to treat the re- 
 mainder. If sick birds are brought to me, I attend to them 
 (the days I am in town). I shall be pleased to give advice 
 to poultry-keepers, both in laying their places out, and stock- 
 ing it, and inspect farms before they are taken for poultry. 
 My fee is jTi is., and travelling expenses. Where I give 
 lectures, I am most pleased to visit gentlemen in the neigh- 
 bourhood to give advice. In lecturing, I endeavour to make 
 poultry keeping as plain as possible, and how they can be 
 kept profitably, and am pleased if any of the audience will 
 ask any question during my discourse. I frequently lecture 
 at working men's clubs, and to those committees ; and in 
 some cases, a gentleman hires a room for the benefit of the 
 working classes, to encourage them in poultry-keeping. I 
 send all my poultry out on approval, and if not satisfactory, 
 I wish them relumed to me. I do not get one returned in 
 
240 
 
 a hundred. I guarantee eight eggs fertile in every sitting 
 up to the first of March, and after that date ten in the 
 sitting. The unfertile must be returned to me carriage paid, 
 and I make them up to the respective numbers — viz., eight 
 and ten. The unfertile eggs should not be shaken at all ; 
 then they can be held before a light in a dark room, and the 
 owner can see whether quite clear or not. If they look quite 
 clear they are unfertile ; if dark they are addled, or have 
 dead chickens in them, I hope my customers will re- 
 member this, as it will save the expen-e of sending them 
 back. When an unfertile egg is broken, and ii has not been 
 sat upon more than three weeks, there is no smell. 
 
 I have cross-bred pullets for disposal all the year round, 
 from 4S. to 5$. 6d. each, and cross-bred hens in the autumn 
 at 2S. 6d. and 3s. 6d. each. Broody hens from 4s. to 5s. 6d. 
 each, according to season and quality. Pure-bred birds 
 from my good laying strains from 6s. 6d. to los. 6d. ; and 
 those which are bred from my good laying strains, with ex- 
 hibition points combined, from 15s. to ^5 each. I can 
 usually supply really good birds from ;^i to 30s. each. It 
 is the best time to buy stock fowls about June or July. I 
 sell them much cheaper then to make room for my young 
 stock. Stock ducks run from 6s. 6d. to £2 each. I export 
 fowls in large numbers, and always endeavour to give good 
 value for the money. Cockerels for crossing from 6s. 6d. 
 to i2s. 6d. Every basket is charged for, and allowed for 
 when returned. Remittance to accompany all orders. 
 P.0.0, payable at Orpington and the Borough. 
 
SINGLE-COMB BLACK ORPINGTON COCK. 
 
NEW BREEDS OF FOWLS. 
 
 SINGLE. 00MB BLACK ORPINGTON. 
 
 SEVERAL new breeds of fowls have been produced in 
 the last few years, but this has been done principally 
 by our American cousins. The Plymouth Rock and 
 Wyandotte are of American production ; the former breed 
 has proved very useful, and has spread more than any 
 other in our country. The Wyandotte is also a nice fowl, 
 but looks best on paper. English poultry-fanciers have 
 paid from ^£2 to ^^30 a pair for both of these breeds. 
 To me this seems a folly. English breeders sit with their 
 arms folded, content to pay such exorbitant prices for fowls 
 which they might produce themselves, and with a certain 
 amount of pleasure, and thus keep thousands of pounds in 
 this country. I have frequently wondered why our English 
 breeders did not take it up. The Plymouth Rock was 
 made with three breeds, but since it has been in our 
 country it has had another added to these (by a good , 
 many breeders) viz., Scotch Grey. The Wyandotte is ' 
 made with two breeds, and those who like the colour must 
 be pleased with the shape of the fowls. The neat rose 
 comb gives them a very nice appearance, in fact, they are 
 
 R 
 
242 
 
 superior birds in head properties. They are spreading 
 well, but do not take so well as the Plymouth Rock. I had 
 both breeds almost as soon as imported into the country, 
 and have bred them ever since, and have found them 
 useful birds, especially the Plymouth Rock My endeavour 
 has been to produce a breed which combines all the good 
 qualities found in several breeds. The Plymouth Rock 
 have yellow skins, unless the stock are selected to avoid 
 this. A yellow cast on the skin is only natural to them. 
 The same with the Wyandotte. They both lay brown or 
 tinted eggs, and are winter layers; but it is difficult to 
 produce true specimens from them, even when the greatest 
 care is bestowed. To breed good-coloured birds it is 
 necessary to have two breeding pens, one for pullet and 
 the other for cockerel breeding (and this is also the case 
 with several other varieties if well - marked fowls are 
 desired, and to be fit for exhibition). This makes it very 
 difficult for those who cannot afford to keep more than one 
 pen. A fowl which has more than one colour in it is much 
 more difficult to breed true than a self-coloured bird. 
 The Black Orpington will fill up the vacancy there has 
 been in the poultry world. The Plymouth Rock has come 
 the nearest to the requirements ; but this breed has several 
 disadvantages where the Orpington has the advantage. They 
 have white skin and flesh, the latter being very fine ; they 
 eat much the same as the Dorking ; feather and grow faster 
 the first six weeks, and are easier to breed true to colour ; 
 are shorter on the legs, lay rather more eggs, and are not 
 so liable to become fat internally ; neither are they such 
 inveterate sitters as the Rocks. I have been asked by 
 many to bring out a breed which would make a good table 
 fowl and lay brown or tinted eggs, free from feathers on 
 the legs, and plumage a colour that will not show the dirt, 
 for town use, one that will stand confinement and lay 
 
SINGLE-COMB BLACK ORPINGTON PULLET. 
 
243 
 
 through the cold winter months. The Orpingtons possess 
 all these qualities, and I feel sure that in time it will 
 become a very popular breed as an all-round fowl. I have 
 not a strict account of the laying of each hen ; a few have 
 laid over 200 eggs in a year; one laid 315 in 12 months, 
 and some of them have only averaged 125 eggs. The 
 Americans have been well repaid for their trouble in 
 producing new breeds, the sums that have been paid by 
 English fanciers to them having been enormous. I have 
 done what is unusual with poultry-breeders, made known 
 through my monthly publication how I have raised the 
 breed. They must commend themselves to anyone who 
 has studied the qualities of the various breeds. They 
 combine the blood of Minorca, Langshan, and Plymouth 
 Rock. The Minorcas are noted for their excellent spring 
 and summer laying ; but if they have good attention 
 and are well sheltered from the cold winds, they will 
 frequently surpass the other so-called hardier breeds when 
 the snow is on the ground. Their combs aie large and 
 occasionally get frost-bitten. 
 
 The Plymouth Rocks are good fowls, especially the 
 black variety, although these should not be used to pro- 
 duce the Grey Rock ; if so, it brings them a smutty colour, 
 although they are usually the best layers. Then there are 
 the Langshans. These have such a splendid gloss upon 
 their plumage, and they are extraordinary layers, especially 
 in autumn and winter. They will often lay while going 
 through their moult, which is unusual for any birds to da 
 It is always much easier to breed good pullets than 
 cockerels in any new breed. Many of the leading fanciers 
 are taking up this breed, with the full intention of having 
 classes at many of our leading shows — Dairy, Crystal 
 Palace, and Birmingham. Being black, they are easy 
 to breed ; they are very hardy as chickens, and feather and 
 
244 
 
 grow fast ; they can be reared in confined spaces, and do 
 well in an open run ; they answer every purpose. If kept 
 for show purposes, they will pay well, as they are such good 
 winter layers ; or, if required for table purposes, they are 
 very satisfactory, being of an excellent flavour, and the 
 breast-meat white. The eggs are brown and tinted, not 
 large, but a good average size — eggs very salable in town 
 or country. 
 
 The birds fatten up very quickly for table when young. 
 A few of the cockerels may come a little splashed in the 
 hackles and saddle feathers. This is liable to appear in all 
 black breeds, more or less, and especially in a newly-raised 
 breed. Sometimes there is not one chicken in a brood 
 which shows a coloured feather. 
 
 The plumage is very glossy in both sexes, but more par- 
 ticularly in the cock. The sheen should be much the 
 same colour as that of a good Langshan ; single combs, 
 evenly serrated in both sexes, standing erect in the cock, 
 not large but neat ; red face and ear-lobes, black or dark 
 legs, not too long, white toe-nails, four toes on each foot, well 
 spread out from each other. The hen's comb may fall a 
 little to one side if it is evenly serrated and without folds 
 in it. The large comb in many breeds denotes good laying 
 qualities. This also means that the best laying fowls have 
 to be done away with because their combs are large, and a 
 judge passes them over. This in a great measure destroys 
 the utility of poultry, whereas it should be vice versA. The 
 poultry clubs and societies should award prizes to those 
 which are capable of laying the largest number of eggs in 
 twelve months. If judges would but study the laying 
 qualities and general shape of the fowls, and not spend all 
 their time on judging the plumage, it would be more bene- 
 ficial to poultry at large. The proper feathers would soon 
 follow if the other matters were attended to as they should 
 
ROSE-COMB BLACK ORPINGTON PULLET. 
 
245 
 
 be. In three years our poultry would be much improved 
 both in laying and table qualities. The birds would be a 
 better shape, and, in many cases, the plumage would be 
 better. 
 
 ROSE-OOMB BLACK ORPINGTON. 
 
 In the fourth edition of my Poultry Breeder and 
 Feeder I gave an illustration of a cock and hen of a new 
 breed of fowls, named the Orpington. I brought this 
 variety out for the public in the autumn of 1886, and it 
 has spread more rapidly throughout the world than any 
 other breed of fowls has ever done. They are in nearly 
 every part of the world now. I have exported a great 
 many, and several other breeders who have taken them up 
 have done the same. They have become very popular in 
 England. They are not only taken up as a variety for 
 exhibition, but many people have purchased them on 
 account of their useful qualities. They are excellent winter 
 layers of a fair-sized, brown egg, and are first-class 
 table birds, having very white flesh and a fine white skin. 
 Independently of the above qualities they are possessed of a 
 beautiful appearance and handsome carriage, which cause 
 many lovers and fanciers of poultry , to take them up. 
 They are everywhere most highly spoken of as a good all- 
 round fowl, and their appearance recommends them, as 
 they are such beautiful birds. I have not been able to 
 supply the demand for eggs or birds this season. During 
 the last two years and present season I have sent out over 
 600 sittings of eggs in England, besides a large number 
 sent abroad. I thought, when I brought the Orpingtons 
 out, that they would be well taken up, but I had not the 
 slightest expectation that the demand for them would have 
 been as great as it has been. Some people think they are 
 
246 , 
 
 too much like the Langshans. These people should try 
 them, and they will find the Orpingtons will grow away 
 from the Langshans from chickenhood, and plump up as 
 table birds in a shorter time. All who have tried them 
 are more than pleased with them. 
 
 In this fifth edition of the Poultry Breeder and 
 Feeder I give the plates of a cock and hen of another 
 new variety, viz., the Rose-comb Orpingtons. They are 
 very much like the Orpingtons in shape and colour, but 
 they have a rose comb ; the Orpingtons being a single- 
 comb bird. I do not hesitate to say that this new variety 
 stands right away from all other breeds in appearance. It 
 is the only breed out which is black in colour that has a 
 rose comb, except the Black Hamburgh, this latter being a 
 small bird with white earlobes. The Rose-comb Orpingtons 
 are free from white in the earlobes, and, being large birds 
 with rose combs, the demand for them is very great. 
 There are always a number of people to take up a fresh 
 variety of fowls, more especially if it is likely to be a pro- 
 fitable one. This last variety I have brought out will well 
 repay those fanciers who speculate in it. It is my wish 
 to be plain in writing of this breed, and not to lead people 
 astray, and, as I have referred to their good qualities, I will 
 point out their failings. Most writers point out the good or 
 bright side of a thing, and leave the dark side to be found 
 out by experience. The question which will be asked by 
 most of my readers is — Is the new variety really any better 
 than the Orpington, and, if so, where does the advantage 
 come in ? Firstly, a fancier or lover of fowls usually likes 
 something different from his neighbour, more especially if 
 eggs can be collected daily during the winter months for 
 breakfast, and this can be done by those who keep the 
 Rose-comb Orpingtons, for they stand far before other 
 varieties as winter layers. Their eggs are rather small, 
 
247 
 
 but are brown in colour. A really good specimen of 
 the Rose-comb Orpington is much more difficult to breed 
 than the Orpington, but will make more money. I told 
 my readers how I raised the latter, so that those who 
 felt inclined might set to work and breed them, and I will 
 now show how the rose-comb variety was formed. Many 
 years ago there were some I^angshans with a rose comb 
 imported into this country ; their having a rose comb was 
 merely a sport of nature in the first place. I very much 
 admired them, and began to breed from them. Whenever 
 there was one imported I immediately bought it. In a few 
 cases our English breeders of Langshans have produced 
 the same sports of nature, and these have usually fallen into 
 my hands, and I used them in forming this new breed. I 
 mated them with the same two breeds in the same way as I 
 did by the Orpington, only I used these sports of nature, 
 — the Langshans that came with the rose comb. These 
 birds were not a recognised breed, and, had I not utilised 
 them, would have had their heads cut off. I have four 
 different strains of this new breed, and, at the end of the 
 season, i88g, I shall have five strains ; so I have fresh blood 
 to go on with for some years. The pullets breed very true 
 to colour. I have not had more than two mismarked 
 ones in every hundred the last two years. Occasionally 
 one may come with feathered legs. The cockerels do not 
 breed so true, as they often throw coloured feathers 
 in the neck, hackles, and saddle. Therefore, good marked 
 cocks are scarce. Sometimes not one cock or pullet 
 in three or four broods will come without the rose 
 comb, and then you may get two come with single 
 combs in one brood. I mention this so that those who 
 may go in for them may not be disappointed by finding all 
 the birds do not come like the illustrations given. (I am 
 breeding from 120 stock birds this season, i88g.) Although 
 
248 
 
 the eggs are rather small they are very salable on account of 
 their brown colour. The birds are not non-sitters. They 
 make excellent sitters and mothers ; at the same time they 
 are easily put off from broodiness if shut from the nest, and 
 come on laying again in a few days. As chickens they are 
 very hardy, and can be brought up in cold and damp 
 places, and many of them will lay when they are six 
 months old. They fledge well, and rapidly grow into good 
 table birds, their flesh and skin being whiter than any 
 other breed of fowls. They stand confinement well, both 
 as chicks and grown-up birds, and they cannot be put in 
 the wrong place. As layers they have beaten all other 
 breeds in the autumn and winter months. Their colour is 
 right for a town, as they are black. They always look nice, as 
 they do not show the dirt. I can strongly recommend 
 them as the best all-round fowl in regard to the number of 
 eggs laid, whether they are kept in a confined town run or 
 a grass field, and at the same time one of the handsomest 
 fowls in existence. It is not necessary for me to dwell long 
 on the different points. Their plumage should be black 
 throughout, both cock and hen, both with rose combs set 
 close to the head, with a small peak at the back, and the 
 neater it is the better ; red face, red earlobes, black or hazel 
 eyes ; black, nicely-curved beak, black legs, and white toe- 
 nails. The cock's tail should be made up with very fine 
 hanging feathers on each side, with a brilliant metallic 
 green on them. The tail should be carried fairly well 
 back ; carried too near the neck is a fault. A brilliant 
 gloss should always be aimed at in mating these birds. If 
 a cock have a large comb mate him with hens that are 
 deficient in size of combs, and if the hens lack gloss mate 
 them with a cock that has a few red feathers in his hackles, 
 as this will bring the gloss up very much in the pullets, v 
 When first hatched the chickens should be black on the 
 
249 
 
 back and white underneath, and are usually pale in the 
 legs, which darken as the birds grow and fledge. 
 
 During the last twenty years I have spent much time on 
 poultry, and especially so the last twelve years. I have had 
 a new breed of birds on hand for thirteen years, but it does 
 not please me yet, therefore I have not brought it before 
 the poultry world. I shall try it for two years longer, and 
 then, if I can really recommend it to the public, I shall 
 bring it out ; if not, I shall drop it, as I have done 
 many other experiments. I have, however, a breed of 
 birds almost ready to add to the already long list of varieties 
 of fowls. They are quite different from either the Orping- 
 ton or Rose-comb Black Orpington. At the same time I 
 think they will take the public fancy almost as well ; but 
 they are white in colour, and, therefore, not so well suited 
 for towns as a black bird, on account of their showing the 
 dirt so much. Some people say they do not see the need 
 of any more varieties of fowls. Many fanciers do, how- 
 ever, see a necessity, and I am one of these. Take, for 
 instance, the White Leghorns, These birds are admitted 
 on all sides to be the king layers of all breeds, and yet they 
 do not as a breed thoroughly please the people who keep 
 them, as their yellow legs and skins are objectionable, and 
 they are poor table birds. I have been trying to produce a 
 fowl that will suit those who keep White Leghorns, and 
 have every reason to believe my efforts will not be in vain. 
 This variety will be a white fowl with a rose comb, white 
 legs and skin, and a larger bird than a Leghorn, combined 
 with the laying qualities of' the latter breed. They are in 
 my opinion a nicer-looking bird, will be much better table 
 birds, and quite as hardy ; but a few of them will want to 
 sit. They are very quick growers, and will lay at six months 
 old, and I have tried them side by side with the Leghorns 
 and they have passed them as layers, taking the year 
 
250 
 
 through, as they lay more eggs during the winter. 
 As chickens they grow and fledge quickly, and will 
 stand any climate, as I have had several pens in dif- 
 ferent parts of the country to try them in this respect. 
 They lay white" eggs chiefly, but a few of them come 
 cream-coloured. They do not, however, breed so true as a 
 Leghorn ; a few of them throw dark feathers, and a 
 coloured leg sometimes will appear, also a single comb. 
 Some of my readers may think that these defects spoil the 
 whole thing, and it may appear so on the surface. If I 
 buy a sitting of eggs, and the seller tells me the chicks will 
 all come alike, I expect them to do so, and, if they do not, 
 I am disappointed. If, however, he tells me I may breed 
 some not so good as most of the others, I naturally expect 
 to get some of the chickens inferior ; but should, however, all 
 of them come right so much the better. I would also inform 
 inexperienced breeders that many old-established varieties 
 do not breed true, but throw different-coloured offspring. 
 For instance the Plymouth Rock is a speckled bird with 
 yellow legs, and yet in breeding them many come black in 
 colour with dark legs. Wyandottes are a black and white 
 fowl J they will throw some chickens black. Andalusians 
 are a blue or slate colour, and yet breed many black and 
 many white chickens. Hamburghs, Wyandottes, and 
 Red Caps are rose-comb varieties, yet often come with 
 single combs. I mention these examples to show how old 
 breeds vary, and do not breed all true to colour, as all 
 varieties are likely to throw back. This new variety is the 
 White Orpington, as they should be white throughout, 
 white beak, white legs, with four toes (not five toes like 
 the Dorking) on each foot, rather large comb, not on 
 one side, with a nice peak at the back. I do not expect 
 them to become valuable as show birds. They may, 
 however, do so ; that depends very much upon how they 
 
ORPINGTON. 
 
 GOOD LAYER. 
 
 ORPINGTON. 
 
 BAD LAYBR. 
 
251 
 
 are taken up when I introduce them to the poultry- 
 fanciers 
 
 The Orpingtons are evidently appreciated as a good and 
 useful breed of fowls, for a club has been formed for them, 
 and is called the " Orpington Club." There are already 
 nearly one hundred members. The Orpingtons are recog- 
 nised as a distinct breed in all the leading shows, and cups 
 and other good prizes are offered for competition. 
 
 LAYING QUALITIES. 
 
 Laying qualities in hens ! Some people try and turn this 
 subject into ridicule, and say it is all nonsense. So it may be 
 to those who say it is, but not to those who have made the 
 subject a study. Many people say it is impossible to tell a 
 good laying hen from a bad one by its appearance. It is 
 not at all impossible ; it is as easy as a, b, c to many people 
 who have studied it. I have given my attention for many 
 years to the laying qualities in hens, and I am able to pick 
 out good layers from bad ones, simply from study and 
 observation ; and I can prove to poultry-keepers that this 
 is a fact, and not a farce. 
 
 In visiting poultry-keepers, I frequently ask them to allow 
 me to pick out from their stock those birds which are the 
 best layers, just to see if there is any truth in it or not. 
 People who keep but few fowls, and take an interest in 
 them, usually know their best layers, and in many neigh- 
 bourhoods where I have lectured I have been able to tell 
 poultry-keepers their best laying hens, and some hundreds 
 of poultry-fanciers have found the benefit of my advice on 
 this subject. There is far more in picking out the best 
 layers, and only keeping those hens, than many people 
 think. 
 
 Most poultry-fanciers are pleased when they have learned 
 
252 
 
 <;o select a bird fit for exhibition out of a number of fowls. 
 This can only be done by a practised eje after careful 
 observation and study, and yet for one poultry-keeper who 
 keeps birds for exhibition purposes there are twenty who 
 keep fowls for profit. Therefore, It is far more important 
 to make a study of laying qualities than of exhibition points. 
 If the former were studied more it would save a great deal 
 of expense and disappointment to fowl-keepers. For 
 instance, many people keep 20 to 30 fowls during the winter 
 months, and often get but very few eggs, perhaps 5 or 6 
 eggs from 20 birds, or 8 or 9 eggs from 30 hens per week, 
 and the fowls that do lay are kept back by their brethren. 
 If only 7 or 10 birds, all good layers, were kept in place of 
 the 30, more eggs would be the result, and these few birds 
 would be kept at a third of the cost, and the income from 
 them would be considerably increased. 
 
 When I kept hens for laying only, I never kept any but 
 those that would lay in the winter months, and November, 
 December, and January were usually higher with me 
 as regards number of eggs than any other three months of 
 the year. I had 30 pullets one season that laid in the three 
 months mentioned 1873 eggs, or about an average of 21 
 eggs monthly for each bird. Some, of course, laid more, 
 whilst others laid fewer. Some of them laid 1 5 and 19 days 
 together without missing a day. Most things that have 
 been done can be done again. I have known many 
 instances where only 6 to 10 birds have been kept and the 
 egg return has averaged 25 eggs per bird a month. 
 
 I often visit people who keep 10 fowls, and who get more 
 eggs than their neighbours who keep from 40 to 50 fowls 
 during the winter months. It is not the number of birds 
 kept, but the quality and the management of them. I visit 
 over 2,000 poultry yards a year, and travel about 15,000 
 miles, so I have good opportunities of seeing birds kept 
 

 PLYMOUTH ROCK.— BAD layer. 
 
253 
 
 under different treatment. I have often picked out the 
 good laying hens from the bad ones, so that their owners 
 could judge for themselves. This book may fall into the 
 hands of poultry-fanciers whom I have not visited, therefore 
 a few hints to them may not be out of place, especially if 
 my remarks may keep the corn bill a few pounds lower in 
 the year, for a pound saved is a pound gained. It is not 
 always what can be gained from good laying fowls, but the 
 convenience of having new laid eggs when they are scarce, 
 and also avoiding being laughed at by other members of the 
 family, who often crack Jokes when eggs are expected, but 
 do not come. 
 
 Selecting the best layers is not a new study with me, for 
 I have been doing it for the last 15 years in my own yards. 
 I did not begin to give the public lectures on the laying 
 qualities until the autumn of 1888. Since then I have had 
 a great many applications from all parts of the country, and 
 this induced me to write a few pages on the subject in this 
 fifth edition of my book. I am only too pleased wherever I 
 visit or lecture to point out the laying qualities of fowls, 
 and it is easy to point out the difference to my audience by 
 having some bad and good layers brought to me ; but it is 
 rather difiScult to make this plain in print, as it is not pos- 
 sible to convey the expression of the eye and face to paper. 
 But one can point out these to people in the live bird. 
 What induced me to take up laying qualities as a study was 
 the idea that as I was able from observation to pick out a 
 good milking cow from a herd, why should I not be able 
 by observation to find out the points in a fowl which would 
 denote a good layer .' 
 
 This study has well repaid me in my own stock, and hun- 
 dreds of poultry-keepers have reaped a part of the benefit 
 with me, as I have sent out many thousands of sittings of 
 eggs to all parts of the world, so that many poultry- keepers 
 
254 
 
 have shared a small percentage of my observation and 
 study by having had some of my laying strains. I may say 
 that if a hen is not in good health and condition the laying 
 qualities do not show to advantage, and it is also very 
 necessary to study age and the breed of birds, as birds of 
 some breeds look much older than they really are. An 
 extraordinary good - laying hen of any breed will look 
 younger when she is four years of age than a bad-laying 
 hen does at two years old. Those who are anxious to pick 
 up the good laying points in hens should watch their own 
 birds very closely, that is if they have one or more which 
 lay better than the others, and this is usually the case when 
 even only six or seven henS' are kept. If the owners will 
 observe the heads of these birds they will find they differ 
 in shape from those which do not lay so often. The heads of 
 the good layers are much finer, not nearly so thick and 
 heavy looking, the eye is bolder, and they have generally a 
 far more intelligent look than a bad layer has. The ob- 
 servant fancier will also notice that the good layers are 
 more active, and generally on the move, and scratching 
 about, -that they are the first birds out in the morning, and 
 the last to roost at night, and they usually have the fullest 
 crops. 
 
 Some people say that a good-laying hen can be told by 
 the size of comb ; this depends a great deal on the breed. . 
 For instance, Brahmas have a very small comb in most 
 cases, and a good layer of this breed has a very small 
 comb ; but in the Cochin this differs very much, and if a 
 Cochin has a large comb she is usually a good layer, but if 
 she have a very small one that is not a reason that she is a 
 bad layer. It is the formation of the head and eye that is 
 the best, guide to go by. I have given a variety of heads 
 of good layers and bad ones, so that my readers may com- 
 pare them. These heads were photographed by the winner 
 
LIGHT BRAHMA. 
 
 GOOD LAYER. 
 
 LIGHT BRAHMA. 
 
 BAD LAYER. 
 
255 
 
 of the Crystal Palace gold medal in 1889, Mr. E. Davy 
 Lavender. The photographs will help you to study your 
 own fowls. There is nothing like practice, so study from 
 live birds as much as possible. A good-laying hen has 
 usually a very pretty face; perhaps, in the heads of 
 Brahmas and Cochins this is more noticeable than in any 
 breed, as they have rather thick heads, and are heavy over 
 the eye ; therefore a good layer of either of these breeds 
 stands right out from the bad ones. 
 
 There is a difficulty in judging the laying qualities of 
 Houdans, Polands, and Creve Coeurs, as they have feathers on 
 the top of the head, which overhang the eyes. By study it 
 is also quite easy to detect a cock that has come from a 
 good- laying strain. I can do this quite easily, and so can 
 many of my friends and pupils. I have not given portraits 
 of any male birds, for the simple reason that those who 
 by study can tell the laying points in the hens, will be sure 
 to observe merits in the cocks. I may mention one thing as 
 regards the cockerels. If they are bred from a good-laying 
 hen they are usually more precocious, and do not grow so 
 large. They begin to crow much earlier, and are much 
 more active. This is noticeable in all varieties, and very 
 much can be learnt in this way by selection of cocks, as if 
 a cock come from a good-laying strain, and he is turned 
 down in a poultry yard, he may^ prove a great boon, as a 
 good-laying hen can only lay a certain number of eggs. If 
 a cock is used with eight or ten hens every chicken comes 
 from him, and good results may be expected in the young 
 pullets the following year. 
 
 If the points for layers are taken up and studied in the 
 same way as the points are for exhibition it will be a great 
 boon to poultry-keepers, and I have every reason to believe 
 fowls will pay twenty-fold more than at present, and I shall 
 be much surprised if prizes are not soon offered at shows 
 
25'6 
 
 as much for laying qualities as they now are for purity of 
 feathers. Our judges of to-day laugh at the idea, but they 
 will find in the course of a few years that if they do not 
 study the laying points in poultry their services will not be 
 in demand as much as they are at the present day. If they 
 do not move with the times they will be left behind. It is 
 useful poultry that .is required for the million. Not half of 
 the old hens carted from show to show, perhaps, lay 
 30 eggs in a year. In fact, many of the cup birds of to-day 
 have not laid an egg in two years. Is this the way to im- 
 prove poultry ? No. It is the way they have been ruined 
 as layers and table birds. Many poultry-fanciers of to-day 
 have a horror of prize strains on account of the few eggs 
 they lay. 
 
 My intention is not to run down prize-bred poultry, 
 but to try and improve them, and produce a bird to win 
 prizes and yet have laying qualities. Exhibition points and 
 laying ones can be combined, and when they are the birds 
 are much nicer-looking, and that is why I brought out the 
 Orpington fowl, just to show the public that it is possible to 
 have a very handsome breed, good layers, and table-birds 
 combined. 
 
 The remarks on the laying points may be criticised by our 
 judges and fanciers of to-day, but I am quite prepared to 
 prove my statements before any public audience, either in 
 town or country. I never put a statement in print unless I 
 have proved it first. The study of keeping poultry pro- 
 fitably is only in its infancy at the present day, though I am 
 pleased to say it is steadily advancing, and will do more so 
 as time goes on, and committees of shows take up the 
 laying points and useful qualities of fowls, and gentlemen 
 who support these exhibitions see that their money is put in 
 the right channel for the improvement of our poultry. Most 
 exhibition breeders admit that their birds are nothing like 
 
CROSS-BRED HAMBURGH-BRAHMA. 
 
 GOOD LAYER. 
 
 CROSS-BRED HAMBURGH-BRAHMA. 
 
 BAD LAYER. 
 
257 
 
 as good layers as they were ten years ago. This is not im- 
 proving poultry, but is going in the wrong direction, and 
 is one reason why I use my pen for the public to sup- 
 port me in the right thing. Why should our poultry de- 
 teriorate in their useful qualities year after year ? They 
 ought to improve, and will do so before long. Why should 
 we pay the millions yearly that we do to foreigners for eggs 
 and fowls, when we might in England produce all we re- 
 quire, and have a surplus of eggs, &c., to send to the 
 foreigner, if poultry were only attended to as they ought to 
 be, and will be ere long ? Landlords, farmers, and cottagers 
 can all do with more money, and can easily increase their 
 incomes by giving more attention to keeping profitable 
 poultry. 
 
258 
 
 LE CTURE S 
 
 I GIVE Lectures on Practical Poultry- Keeping and Management 
 throughout the country. My object is, as fully expressed in 
 my Book, to draw the attention of the labouring classes to this 
 easily- attained means of adding to their income and increasing 
 their present limited sources of Home Comfort. 
 
 It is necessary that Secretaries or other persons making the 
 engagements should correspond with me early, as I am continually 
 making arrangements for Lectures in various parts. In many 
 cases these could be arranged so as to fit in with others in 
 neighbouring districts, and expense of travelling lessened. 
 
 Fee, ;^i IS. and travelling expenses, or within a distance of 12 
 miles of London, free. 
 
 Address all letters and orders to W. Cook, " The Waldens," 
 St. Mary Cray (late of Tower House, Orpington), Kent, or Queen's 
 Head Yard, 105, High Street, Borough, S.E. (three minutes' 
 walk from London Bridge). 
 
 Advice and Consultations. 
 
 I give information free to all poultry-keepers on the management of poultry, 
 also answer any questions by stamped and addressed envelope. All communi- 
 cations eoncerning this should be addressed to "The Waldens," St. Mary 
 Cray (late Tower House, Orpington), Kent. I also travel to all parts 
 of the United Kingdom for the purpose of planning-out poultry farms and 
 runs, mating breeding birds, &c., for the nominal sum of 2is. and travelling 
 expenses. 
 
 NOTICE TO VISITORS. 
 
 The Breeding Pens and Stock Birds are open for inspection any week-day, 
 Mr. Cook is at home on Wednesdays from r.30 p.m. till evening, to supply every 
 necessary information concerning the birds and give advice. For the benefit of 
 the working classes, the place is open for inspection on Bank Holidays. "The 
 Waldens," St, Mary Cray, is aj miles from Orpington Station on the South- 
 Eastern Railway, and a little over a mile from St. Mary Cray Station on the 
 L .C. & D. Railway, and 2 miles from Swanley Junction, on the same line. Any- 
 one who cannot conveniently walk can be met by my trap at either station by 
 appointment. Address all Telegrams ;— " Cook, St. Mary Cray."" 
 
259 
 
 ^\^r. oooisi's 
 
 PEICE LIST OF EGGS FOR SITTING. 
 
 Eggs of the following breeds supplied from strong healthy birds, 
 carefully mated. Birds can be inspected on any week day. 
 Broody hens supplied at reasonable prices. 
 
 Pkices per Sitting of 12 Eggs (Packing included). 
 
 Plymouth Rock 
 
 Black Minorca 
 
 White Minorca 
 
 Partridge Cochin 
 
 Buff Cochin 
 
 Black Spanish 
 
 White Leghorn 
 
 Brown Leghorn 
 
 Langshan 
 
 Wyandotte 
 
 Black-breasted Red Game 
 
 Indian Game 
 
 Silver-Grey Dorking 
 
 Light Brahma 
 
 Dark Brahma 
 
 Silver-spangled Hamburgh 
 
 Gold-spangled Hamburgh 
 
 Bbck Hamburgh 
 
 Hondan 
 
 Andalusian ... ... ... ... ... ... 
 
 Scotch Grey „, 
 
 Redcap 
 
 Coloured Dorking ... ... 
 
 While Dorking 
 
 Black Rose- Comb Bantam ... ... , 
 
 Silver Sebright Bantam 
 
 Golden Sebright Bantam ... ... ... 
 
 Black-breasted Red Game Bantam 
 
 These are all prize birds with laying qualities combined. Hundreds of birds 
 have been successfully exhibited, bred from eggs supplied by W. Cook. 
 
 Orpington . _ . 10/6 and 21/- per sitting. 
 Rose-Comb Black do. - 10/6 and 21/- „ 
 
 This breed, which W. Cook has brought out, combines a handsome appear- 
 ance with good winter and summer laying, and excellent table qualities. 
 The birds have fine white flesh and lay brown eggs. 
 
 82 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
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 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
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 10 
 
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 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
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 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
26o 
 
 The following are Pure Birds, but bred especially for laying 
 qualities : — 
 
 Plymouth Rock per dozen 
 
 Black Minorca ,, 
 
 White Minorca „ 
 
 Partridge Cochin „ 
 
 Buff Cochin ,, 
 
 Black Spanish ,, 
 
 Andalusian ,, 
 
 Langshan ,, 
 
 Dark Brahma ... ... ,, 
 
 Light Brahma „ 
 
 Black Hamburgh ,, 
 
 Silver-spangled ditto ,, 
 
 Gold-spangled ditto „ 
 
 Brown Leghorn ,, 
 
 White Leghorn „ 
 
 Kedcap ,, 
 
 Coloured Dorking ,, 
 
 White ditto „ 
 
 Black-breasted Red Game ,, 
 
 Silver-Grey Dorking „ 
 
 Houdan ,, 
 
 Indian Game ,, 
 
 Scotch Grey n 
 
 Silver Sebright Bantam „ 
 
 Black Rose- Comb Bantam ,, 
 
 Guinea Fowls' Eggs - - - 7s. 6d. 
 
 FIRST CROSSES. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 Langshan-Minorca per dozen 5 o 
 
 Houdan-Minorca ,, 50 
 
 Plymouth Rock-Minorca ,, 50 
 
 Houdan- Dorking ,, 50 
 
 Gold-spangled Hamburgh Cochin ,, 60 
 
 Houdan-Cochin „ 50 
 
 Minorca-Brahma „ 50 
 
 Houdan-Brahma ,, 50 
 
 Leghorn-Brahma ,, 50 
 
 Leghorn-Dorking ,, 50 
 
 Leghorn-Cochin ,, 5 o 
 
 Indian Game-Dorking ,, 5 o 
 
 Houdan-Plymouth Rock ,, 50 
 
 Leghorn-Plymouth Rock ,, 50 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
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 6 
 
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 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
2fl 
 
 Plymouth Rock-Dorking ... 
 Langshan-PIymouth Rock... 
 Indian Game- Plymouth Rock 
 Cuckoo Leghorn- Plymouth Rock 
 Plymouth Rock-Brahma ... 
 Plymouth Rock-Game 
 
 Houdan-Leghorn 
 
 Andalusian- Brahma 
 
 per dozen 
 
 d. 
 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 
 S o 
 
 5 o 
 
 5 o 
 
 5 o 
 
 5 o 
 
 DUCK EGGS. 
 
 PER SITTING OF ii EGGS. 
 
 up to 
 March ist. 
 
 Prize Aylesbury 
 
 Aylesbury 
 
 Muscovy 
 
 Rouen 
 
 Pekin 
 
 Cayuga 
 
 Black East India 
 
 Rouen-Aylesbury 
 
 Muscovy- Aylesbury 
 
 Pekin-Aylesbury 
 
 After 
 that 
 date. 
 
 s. d. 
 
 IS 
 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 
 o 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 6 
 
 6 6 
 6 6 
 S o 
 S o 
 5 o 
 
 GEESE EGGS. 
 
 Italian 
 
 Italian and Toulouse Cross 
 Embden and Toulouse ... 
 
 Each, 
 s. d. 
 I 6 
 I 3 
 I 3 
 
 TURKEY EGGS. 
 
 Black Norfolk 
 
 Cambridge Bronze 
 
 Norfolk and Cambridge Cross 
 
 Each, 
 s. d. 
 I 4 
 I 6 
 
 Per 
 Sitting 
 II Eggs, 
 s. 
 
 14 6 
 II o 
 II o 
 
 Per 
 Sitting of 
 II Eggs, 
 s. d. 
 
 IS o 
 15 o 
 II o 
 
 Special quotations for large orders and Incubators. After the 
 1st of June the price of Eggs is reduced. 
 
 ALL EGGS GUARANTEED FERTILE. 
 
 Unfertiles replaced if returned per Parcels Post to " The 
 
 Waldens," St. Mary Cray (late of Tower House, Orpington), Kent. 
 
 ame and Address of sender to be enclosed in ezch box of rsturned Egis. 
 
262 
 EGG TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 Lancaster, February loth, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — The Langshan eggs you sent me have been very satisfactory, 
 ten having produced strong chickens, which is excellent at this time of year. 
 
 Yours, etc., FRED NORRIS. 
 
 Brighton, February 71h, 1 889. 
 Sir, — I thought I would let you know I have eleven chickens from the 
 thirteen eggs you sent (Orpingtons). I am most pleased. 
 
 Yours, truly, WM. JONES. 
 
 Manchester, March i.st, 1889. 
 Sir, — The three sittings of eggs have turned out as follows :— Langshans, 
 eleven chicks ; Minorcas, ten ditto ; White Leghorns, eleven. I am well 
 satisfied. Yours truly, F. MARCHANT. 
 
 Lewisham, March 3rd, 1889. 
 Sir, — The eggs I obtained from you have been satisfactory having pro- 
 duced eleven strong chickens. Yours, etc , F. F. 
 
 Ewe 11, Surrey, March Sth, 1889. 
 Sir, — The eggs have produced ten strong chickens. 
 
 Yours truly, FANNY WATCHORNE. 
 
 Manchester, March glh, 1889. 
 Str, — I am pleased with result of Wyandotte eggs, twelve eggs containing 
 strong chickens. Yours faithfully, W. THOMAS. 
 
 Liverpool, March nth, 1889. 
 Mrs. Jackson is pleased with result of eggs, as she has obtained thirteen 
 lovely chickens from the same number of eggs. 
 
 CamberwtU, S.E,, February 19th, 1889. 
 Sir,— I am delighted with the results of eggs obtained from your London 
 office, as I have twelve beautiful chicks. The thirteenth was crushed in nest, 
 unfortunately. Yours, etc., F. WILLIAMS. 
 
 Old Kent Road, S.E. 
 Dear Sir, — I have ten chickens from the Plymouth Rock eggs purchased 
 from ycu, and the other three were alto fertile. I am very pleased. 
 
 Yours truly, A. MacDONALD. 
 
 Wyboston, St. Neots, March 20th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, I have twelve chickens from the Minorca eggs received from 
 you. Yours, etc, W. MAN WARING. 
 
 Lancaster, March 30th, 1889. 
 Sir, — I have a lovely hatch of thirteen chickens from jour Plymouth Rock 
 eggs, and am more than pleased. Yours, etc., F. WARBEATON. 
 
263 
 
 Macclesfield, March 2nd, 1889. 
 Dear Sik, — I have fourteen chickens from fifteen Langshan eggs you 
 supplied. Yours truly, ANNIE WARING. 
 
 Newark, Notts, March 2nd, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — I have ten chickens from the thirteen eggs supplied, and two 
 dead in shell. Yours faithfuUy, M. MARCHANT. 
 
 Lozells, Birmingham. 
 Sir, — I am pleased to tell you I have thirteen Orpington chickens from 
 eggs supplied by you. Yours truly, T. WARREN. 
 
 Caxton, Bridgwater. 
 Sir, — The eggs are very satisfactory, having produced thirteen chickens ; 
 the extra egg you kindly sent was addled. Yours faithfully, A, MERRIE. 
 
 Pinxton, Derbyshire. 
 Sir, —The eggs have proved satisfactory ; fourteen out of the fifteen have 
 produced healthy chicks. Yours, etc , F. FARQUHAR. 
 
 Lancaster Road, Lancaster. 
 Sir, — The eggs you sent to Scotland for me have hatched ten strong chicks. 
 The others were broken on journey. Very pleased. Yours truly, A. M. 
 
 Dublin, Ireland. 
 Sir, — The eggs are very satisfactory ; twelve of the Minorcas have hatched, 
 eleven of the Orpingtons, and thirteen of the cross bred. 
 
 Yours, etc., J. MURPHY. 
 
 Highwood House, Mill Hill, December 7th, 188S. 
 Dear Sir, — I think you may be interested to know that a cock and hen, 
 hatched from eggs bought of you in 1887, gained First Prize and a Special at 
 a local show held at Barnet, December 6th. I shall be glad if you will book 
 me a sitting of Black Minorca eggs for next spring. If you have two prices I 
 should like half a sitting of each. I thought it would be well to sit them the 
 first week in March. Yours very truly, M. LOCKET. 
 
 Eastbourne, April i8th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — I am very pleased to tell you that out of the sitting of eggs you 
 sent me I have ten fine chicks. If the majority should turn out cockerels 
 could you tell me the best market at which to effect either a sale or exchange ? 
 Believe me to remain, yours truly, H, EVENDEN. 
 
 [Advertise them.] 
 
 Kingsbury House, Shortlands, Kent, April 13th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — Three weeks ago I had a broody hen and sitting of Black 
 Hamburgh eggs from you. I write to say that the hen has sat very well 
 indeed, and yesterday morning brought off twelve chicks ; the thirteenth died 
 during hatching, I think through my own mismanagement. 
 
 Yours very truly, N. DENCE. 
 
264 
 
 Brannocklie, Airdrie. 
 Sir,— I am {"eased with results, eleven eggs having produced good 
 chickens. Yours faithfully, T. JONES. 
 
 136, Brecknock Road, N.W. 
 Dear Sir,— The hen (and sitting of Black Hamburgh eggs I bought of you on 
 the 2nd March, i889),hatched them all to-day ; that is to say 12, as she broke 
 an egg on the second day of her sitting. The chickens are all in good con- 
 dition. Yours truly, E. SONDHEIM. 
 
 North End, Kirby Stephen, Ajiril 19th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — I thought that I vpould tell you my luck this time. I set a 
 hen with fourteen Orpington eggs, and I have got fourteen chicks, strong and 
 healthy. Yours, etc., J. THOMPSON. 
 
 W. COOK 
 
 . Begs to thank his many Customers for their 
 patronage, and, now that has taken 
 
 LARGER PREMISES, 
 
 he hopes to be better able to supply their orders. 
 
 HE HAS REMOVED FROM 
 
 I TOWER HOUSE, ORPINGTON, KENT, 
 
 TO 
 
 t t 
 
 THE ^VALDENS," 
 
 ST. MARY CRAY, KENT, 
 
 One mile from St. Mary Cray Station; two-and- 
 a-half from Orpington ; and two from 
 Swanley Junction. 
 
 ADDRESS TELEGRAMS : — 
 "OOOK, ST. 1^-A.K.ir OK^i^Y." 
 
265 
 
 ■V7". OOOIKT'S 
 
 IMPROVED SITTING COOP. 
 
 This Coop will be found very useful by poultry-keepers, as timid hens often 
 refuse to take to a nest when it is placed in a strange house. 
 
 The Coop can be placed in the house, close to the position in which the 
 original nest was situated, and the hen will scarcely notice the difference. 
 After the hen has taken to the nest, it can be removed to any convenient spot. 
 
 It is made so that it can be closed up to prevent rats or other vermin 
 getting at the eggs, and will be found most convenient for sending broody 
 bens by rail. It is also arranged so that, although the hen cannot get off the 
 nest, sufficient light and air are admitted by means of a sliding door. 
 
 Strongly and Substantially Made, 6s. 6d. each. 
 
 W. COOK'S 
 
 IMPROVED POULTRY HOUSES 
 
 QMOVABLIT). 
 Put together with Bolts ; and free on rail. 
 
 
 
 SIZES. 
 
 
 
 PRICES. 
 
 LONG. 
 
 
 WIDE. 
 
 
 HIGH. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 7 ft. in. 
 
 X 
 
 5 ft. 6 in. 
 
 X 
 
 6 ft. in. ... 
 
 ... 3 10 
 
 6 ft. 8 in. 
 
 X 
 
 5 ft. 3 in. 
 
 X 
 
 6 ft. in. ... 
 
 ...350 
 
 6 ft. 4 in. 
 
 X 
 
 5 ft- 3 in- 
 
 X 
 
 6 ft. in. ... 
 
 -330 
 
 5 ft. 6 in. 
 
 X 
 
 4 ft. 6 in. 
 
 X 
 
 6 ft. in. ... 
 
 ... 2 19 
 
 4 ft. 6 in. 
 
 X 
 
 3 ft. 6 in. 
 
 X 
 
 4 ft. 8 in. ... 
 
 ...250 
 
 CHICKEN AND BROODY COOPS OF ALL SIZES. 
 
 W. COOK, "THE WALDENS," ST. MARY CRAY 
 
 (LATE OF TOWER HOUSE, ORPINGTON), KENT, 
 
2 66 
 
 BIRDS. 
 
 — • — 
 
 Stock birds, of every breed, supplied at all times in the year, 
 at reasonable, prices. Cross-bred birds of every description from 
 5s. to 6s. each. Cocks and cockerels of a'l breeds, both for 
 breeding pure birds, also for crossing purposes ; all birds sent on 
 approval., Baskets charged . and allowed for when returned ; 
 remittance to accompany all orders. 
 
 W. Cook has some excellent stock birds to part with 
 about the middle of June, as then a few of his breeding pens 
 are broken up. 
 
 Fowls exported to all parts of the world ; and also exhibition 
 birds of all breeds supplied. Breeding pens complete ; unrelated 
 fowls, also pure birds for laying and crossing purposes. Price 
 depends upon the time of year. 
 
 As W. Cook has several strains of each breed, he can always 
 supply cocks and pullets quite unrelated to those already sent 
 out. 
 
 The old stock birds are much cheaper in the autumn ; early- 
 hatched pullets being expensive then. 
 
 Birds on show daily at 103, Borough. Special lots on Mondays 
 and Saturdays. 
 
 W. COOK, 
 
 "THE WALDENS," ST. MARY CRAY 
 
 (LATE OF TOWER HOUSE, ORPINGTON), KENT, 
 AND 
 
 Queen's Head Yard, 105, Borough, London, S.E. 
 
 TELEGRAMS:-"COOK, ST. MARY CRAY." 
 
267 
 
 BIRD TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 Woodland Villa, Birkbeck Road, Enfield, N. 
 April 27th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir,— The birds came to hand safely, and I am well pleased with 
 same. Hamper returned. Yours truly, H. G. RAMSDEN. 
 
 Heywood, Lanes, March 21st, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — The fowls (Orpington cockerel and six pullets) arrived safely. 
 I am very much pleased with them. Yours faithfully, 
 
 WILLIAM BOOTH. 
 
 Cheap Street, Frome, March 22nd, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — I enclose cheque for brown Leghorn cockerel you sent me, 
 with which I am highly pleased. He has been very much admired by all who 
 have seen him, and it clearly shows that anyone living in the country can 
 safely leave the selection of their birds to you. Put in the run with some of 
 my best pullets, together they make a splendid picture. 
 
 Respectfully yours, S. BAILEY. 
 
 Whitegate House, Halifax, March 20th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — The two Orpington pullets have arrived, and I am very much 
 pleased with the same. Yours faithfully, J. W. TILLOTSON. 
 
 Linton Rectory, Skipton, Yorks., March 17th, 1889. 
 Mrs. Brereton encloses cheque for Langshan cockerel and hens, and begs 
 to say she likes them very much. 
 
 Dove Holes, by Stockport, March 2nd, 1889. 
 Sir, — I am in receipt of Langshan cockerel, and am well satisfied with 
 your selection. Yours, &c., ALEX. FROGGATT. 
 
 Chapel Lane, Hoghton, March 20th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — The Plymouth Rock pullets arrived safely. I am exceptionally 
 well pleased with them, and shall certainly introduce your birds to poultry 
 keepers here. Yours faithfully, J. MALLEY. 
 
 114, Abel Street, Burnley, February 26th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — The Minorca cockerel you have sent me is a grand bird. I 
 am well satisfied with your dealings. Yours, etc., J. WILLIAMS. 
 
 Ocean Road, Grangetown, February 22nd, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — White Leghorn cockerel received safely. I am well pleased 
 with him, as I think him a good bird. Yours truly, 
 
 THOMAS E. MILLER. 
 
 Badsworth Hall, Pontefract, February i8th, 1889. 
 Sir, — The Leghorn cockerels you sent me are nice birds, and I like them 
 very much. I enclose cheque. Yours faithfully, 
 
 R. HEYWOOD JONES. 
 
268 
 
 Clayton Hall, Acciington, February 13th, 1889. _ 
 Miss Nickson encloses cheque tor the six pullets, which are very satis- 
 actory. 
 
 Perry Barr, Birmingham. 
 Dear Sir, — The Plymouth Rock cockerel you sent me is a cheap bird, and 
 gives me every satisfaction. Yours respectfully, W. BRADFOKD, 
 
 Wortley Hall, Sheffield, February 19th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — Langshan cockerel received. I like him very much. 
 
 Yours truly, J. ROULSTONE. 
 
 Roundwood Park, Greystones, Wicklow, 
 February 24th, 1889. 
 Mr. James Gower has received the two cocks, and is very pleased indeed 
 with them both. 
 
 Skirbeck Parsonage, Boston, February 9th, 1889. 
 Mrs. Sedgwick is very pleased with the two Minorca-Plymouth Rock 
 pullets received from Mr. Cook. 
 
 Fairchilds, Warlingham, February 8th, 1889. 
 Mr. a, S. Daniell encloses cheque for the seven Langshan pullets supplied 
 by Mr, Cook, Mr, Daniell is much pleased with the birds, 
 
 Rosegarth, Dunoon, Scotland, February i6th, 1889. 
 Mrs. Campbell has received the two cockerels and pullet, and is much 
 pleased with their appearance, 
 
 Chesterfield House, St. John's Hill, S.W., 
 February 7th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — I enclose cheque for the nine fowls, with which I am very 
 pleased. Yours truly, G. FITZGERALD. 
 
 Eggington, near Leighton Buzzard, February 6th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — Cockerel safely to hand. I am very pleased with the bird. 
 
 Yours truly, F. MEAD. 
 
 The Beehive, Reigate. 
 Dear Sir, — Birds received. Accept my thanks for the handsome way in 
 which you have treated me. I shall not foi^et you when I want birds or 
 eggs. Yours truly, G. T. BASSETT. 
 
 23, Walpole Street, Birmingham, January 2nd, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — The bird arrived safely, and is in excellent condition. She 
 suits me well. Yours truly, J. MORGAN, 
 
 Flixton, near Manchester, January 25th, l88g. 
 Dear Sir,— I received the pullets safely this morning, and am much 
 pleased with them. Yours sincerely, T, TAYLOR, 
 
269 
 
 Newbold, Rugby, January 2Sth, 1889. 
 Dear Sir,— My friend has received the pen of Brahmas and thinks them 
 very good value for the money. Yours &c., W. DANIELS. 
 
 Hensall, Snaith, February 26lh, 1889. 
 Dear Sir,— Cockerel received. I am highly pleased with him. 
 
 Yours faithfully, W. LEE. 
 
 Earls Cottage, Maldon, January 23rd. 18S9. 
 Dear Sir, — Birds to hand. I am very pleased with them, especially the 
 Langshans and Minorcas. Yours faithfully, H. M. BEART. 
 
 Clayton Hall, Accrington, February isth, 1889. 
 Sir, —I enclose cheque for the Rouen drake and ducks. They are splendid 
 birds, and I am well pleased with them. Yours, etc., A. NICKSON, 
 
 Attaryn, Newport, Mon., January 21st, i88g. 
 Dear Sir, — I enclose £1 for the Langshan Cockerel, with which I am 
 much pleased. Yours truly, W. C. COLLIER. 
 
 Helmcroft, Manchester, January 21st, 1889. 
 Mrs. Dean is pleased with the birds received from Mr. Cook yesterday, 
 especially the Minorca cockerel. The Rose-combed Orpington cockerel is a 
 very nice one. 
 
 2, Lubeck Villas, New Bamet, January 22nd, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — I am much pleased with the Silver Grey Dorking cockerel. 
 But you always do your best for your customers. 
 
 Yours truly, ETHELBERT R. HUTCHENSE. 
 
 Manchester, January 4th, 1889. 
 Sir, — I am greatly pleased with the splendid pen of Aylesbury ducks you 
 have sent me. They do you credit. ' Yours faithfully, A. MASON. 
 
 Redditch, February gth, 1889. 
 Sir, — I am most pleased with the birds you have sent me. 
 
 Yours, etc., A. F. 
 
 TrOR many years W. CoOK has had applicilions to take Pupils to learn 
 Poultry Farming, and the management, &c. ; but had refused to do so, 
 until about two years ago. He has taken a few, who have been much pleased 
 with the knowledge gained. The fee is 10 guineas (which is very reasonable). 
 The Pupils can stay one or six months, as they wish. Every branch of 
 Poultry Keeping is taught practically. As his house is large enough, he can 
 board the Pupils, if they wish (this being extra). He will be glad for gentle- 
 men desiring to learn the business to come down and see the place — 
 
 "THE WALDENS," ST. MARY CRAY, KENT. 
 
270 
 
 WILLIAM COOK, 
 
 Manufacturer of 
 
 SPEC I A LI TIES for POULT R V, 
 
 "THE WALDENS," ST. MARY CRAY, KENT 
 
 (Late of Tower House, Orpington), 
 
 AND 
 
 Queen's Head Yard, 105, Borough, S.E,, 
 
 Respectfully draws the attention of Poultry-Breeders and Feeders 
 to the following Trade Announcements, 
 
 COOK'S 
 
 POULTRY POWDERS. 
 
 These Powders are an invaluable composition for Poultry under all circum- 
 stances. They are prepared especially to act upon every organ of the body, 
 being stimulating, strengthening, and warmth-giving — in fact, they counteract 
 many diseases Poultry are subject to, improve their appearance by imparting a 
 gloss and beauty to the plumage, and keep the fowls in good health by prevent- 
 ing colds and hardening the birds against the severe and constant changes they 
 are subject to in this climate. 
 
 They are especially useful to birds while moulting, when there Is a great strain 
 upon the system in the growth of the young feathers, and they are down in 
 condition and need something to help them. They are also useful in cases 
 where fowls mope about and do not care for their food, being a little out of 
 sorts. The Powders will be found most beneficial by acting upon the liver, and 
 bringing the birds on to full lay. Those who use them are seldom without eggs 
 all the winter months. They are used very largely and have proved a great 
 boon to poultry-keepers. They do not over-stimulate the fowls and leave them 
 weak, like most other tonics do. They strengthen every organ of the body, and 
 can be discontinued at any time without any injury to the fowls. I have used 
 them for more than sixteen years, from August to April, about four or five times 
 a week ; if the weather is severe, I use them every day. Many people have used 
 them all through the summer of the past few years with excellent results ; they 
 do not injure the birds in the least or wear them out sooner, as my customers 
 
271 
 
 testify. I have not been without eggs for more than sixteen years, even in 
 the most severe weather. The same Powders are used for bringing up young 
 chickens, turkeys and pheasants, and this year they have been used with great 
 advantage for young ducks ; they have a good effect on all young poultry, 
 assisting them in their growth, getting their feathers, and giving them health 
 and vigour. 
 
 The quantity to be used is a full teaspoonful for eight full-grown fowls, and 
 chickens proportionate to age, given from 3 to 5 times a week, with the morning 
 meal of soft food ; it is best to mix the Powder in the dry meal previous to 
 adding the water, or it can be mixed in any kind of soft food. When the fowls 
 are in full lay, or the weather mild, the Powder may be omitted for a week or so. 
 A change does them good. I cannot state exactly the time to give it to young 
 chickens, but early-hatched ones require it oftener than later- hatched, as the 
 former suffer most from cramp, cold, &c. , according to the weather. The use 
 of it must depend upon the feeder's judgment. 
 
 These Powders are sent to all parts of the world. They help the fowls to pro- 
 duce eggs in the coldest weather, and also when kept in close confinement eggs 
 are produced in abundance. Where many did not get an egg for three months 
 together, since using the Powders they are never without them. 
 
 Sold in 6d. and is. tins, post free, 8Jd. and is. 3d. ; or 5s. tin for 55., carriage 
 paid ; 12s, tin for los., carriage paid. Cash to accompany all orders. 
 
 SPECIAL QUOTATIONS FOR LARGER ORDERS. 
 
 POULTRY POWDER TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 Bridge Street, Tadcaster, March 26th, 1889. 
 
 Dear Sir, — Please send me two is. tins of Laying Powders. My hens are 
 now laying well, and I give the Powders credit for the increase in the number 
 of eggs laid. I am, dear Sir, yours truly, 
 
 Mr. W. Cook. E. PAYNE. 
 
 Fauldhouse, Scotland, March, 1889. 
 Sir, — I am pleased to inform you that the Poultry Powders I had from you 
 have made a great improvement upon my poultry. When I began using the 
 Powders the birds were laying very badly, but after the first week things began 
 to mend rapidly, and within a fortnight I had abundance of eggs ; therefore I 
 can recommend it with confidence to all poultry keepers, as I have found 
 nothing like the Powders for making eggs. I have recommended them to 
 others, and you will know by their repeat orders that they also have found them 
 as above. I am, yours truly, DAVID NELSON. 
 
 Hail Weston, St. Neots, Hunts, March 6tb, 1889. 
 Dear Sir,— I have had a great increase of eggs since I have used your 
 Powder, therefore can testify to the great qualities of the Powder. I am trying 
 to spread its fame amongst poultry-keepers of my district. 
 
 Yours truly, EDWIN W. ALLEN. 
 
272 
 
 49, Hamilton Road, West Norwood, March 22ad, 1889. 
 Sir,— I have had very beneficial results from the use of your Poultry 
 Powders, and can recommend them strongly to poultry keepers. 
 
 Yours truly, W. J. CLEAVER. 
 
 204, Wetmoor Road, Burton-on-Trent, 
 March 7th, 1889. 
 Sir, — I have pleasure in asking you to send me 27s. worth of Powders ; 
 the others have sold wonderfully well. People have come miles for them, 
 and several have offered testimonials as to the efficacy of the Powder. 
 
 Yours truly, A. BOOTH. 
 
 Westfield, Beverley, March 19th, 1889. 
 Sir, — I find your Poultry Powder of great advantage to my hens. We are 
 now, and have been for a long time, getting a large number of eggs from 
 them. Yours faithfully, W. GRAHAM LEES. ^ 
 
 London, S.E. 
 Sir, — Allow me to testify to the value of your Poultry Powder as an egg 
 producer. Yours, etc., F. MARTIN. 
 
 Eearnett House, near Wolverhampton, April 24th, 1889. 
 Mrs. George Ward will feel obliged by Mr. Cook sending her 28 lbs. of 
 his Poultry Powder and 14 lbs. of his Roup Powder. Mrs. Ward has much 
 pleasure in informing Mr. Cook of her thorough approval of both Powders. 
 Since using the former, which she has done for many months, her egg supply 
 has been nearly doubled, and she has found the latter a most efficacious pre- 
 ventive in all cases of threatened disease. Mr. Cook is at liberty to make any 
 use he pleases of this letter. 
 
 Islington. 
 Sir, — I have used your Poultry Powders and Grit, of which I cannot speak 
 too highly. I think them a great boon to anybody that keeps poultry. I 
 also had a bag of the Moss Peat, which is excellent. So if you will for- 
 ward the list oi cross-bred pullets, etc., I shall feel greatly obliged. 
 
 I am, dear Sir, yours respectfully, 
 
 H. GILL. 
 
 March 7th, 1889, 
 Dear Sir, — Please send me some more Poultry Powder. I enclose postal 
 order to cover cost. At first I thought all fowls required was stimulating, and 
 it would be cheaper to buy cayenne and hemp seed, but I soon found I was 
 overdoing it, and concluded to give your Powder a trial, and speedily arrived 
 at the conclusion that it was going to have the same effect as the wonderful 
 Yankee nest, that caused fowls to lay themselves to death. I found I was 
 wrong again, for as time went on the supply of eggs still kept up, and the birds 
 began to look better ; and now you could not find a lot that looked bonnier 
 or blighter, or that do their duty better. Allow me to acknowledge the 
 utility and efficacy of your Powder, Yours, etc., H. B. VAUGHAN. 
 
273 
 
 Gee Farm, Motham in Longdendale, Manchester. 
 Dear Sir,— I enclose P.O., value is. 3d., for Roup Powder, which came 
 duly to hand. There is a very great improvement in my poultry since I began 
 to use it. I am, Sir, yours faithfully, THOMAS HALL. 
 
 204, Wetmoor Road, Burton on- Trent. 
 Sir, — Please send me a five shilling tin of Poultry Powders, as I find my 
 fowls are doing well (as regards laying) by the use of them, and for which I 
 enclose P.0.0. for Ss. I beg to remain, yours, etc, A. B. 
 
 South Yorkshire Asylum, Wadsley, near Sheffield. 
 Dear Sir, — Will you please send me three tins of your Poultry Powders, 
 at one shilling per tin, for which I enclose 3s. gd. I think I shall be able to 
 get you a few orders, as we are forming a poultry club here ; it is the best 
 thing I ever used. Yours, D. C. A. KIRBY. 
 
 Kirby Stephen, Westmoreland. 
 Dear Sir, — I have been using your Poultry Powder, and I find it the best 
 thing I have ever tried. I would advise all poultry- keepers to use it. It pro- 
 duces plenty of eggs, and keeps the poultry in good health. 
 
 Yours faithfully, JOHN THOMPSON. 
 
 Skirbeck Parsonage, Boston, July 21st, 1888. 
 Dear Sir, — I must tell you that since I have used your Poultry Powder I 
 have literally had double the number of eggs. I wrote to you two months 
 ago, when I was getting only four or five eggs from fourteen laying hens. 
 Now I have had eight, nine, and ten eggs every day for the last month from 
 the same number of hens, and they seem in splendid condition. I had almost 
 made up my mind to give up fowls, as I thought I could not make them pay 
 in my small run. Yours truly, NORAH SEDGWICK. 
 
 76, College Street, Dumbarton, November 17th, 1888. 
 Dear Sir, — Please send on twelve tins, six of Roup Powder and six of 
 Condition Powder. I find it fulfils all you say of it. Enclosed will find postal 
 order for amount. I am, yours truly, ALEXANDER CAMERON. 
 
 Dear Sir, — Please send me is tin of your Poultry Powders for laying, by 
 return of post. I should also be glad of a small sample of fowls' and chickens' 
 grit. I find a marked improvement in my hens, laying only since using a 
 small tin of Powders, is. 3d. enclosed. Yours truly, M. M. HARRIS. 
 
 Elm Grove, Steyning. 
 Sir, — Would you oblige in sending one box of Poultry Powers at 5s., and 
 one box of Roup at Is. I must say a word in praise of your Powders. A few 
 doses soon began to work wonders. I have twelve laying fowls. The last 
 three weeks I have taken an account of the number of eggs, viz., 53, 51, and 
 64. I have not used it all myself. My neighbours have seen the result, my 
 fowls averaging double the number of eggs to theirs ; they were induced to 
 borrow, and now they are co operating with me for more, as it has benefited 
 their fowls as well as mine. Yours, C. GREEN. 
 
274 
 
 Coton Hall, Sudbury, Derby. 
 Mrs. Kempson would be much obliged to Mr. W. Cook if he would send 
 her, as soon as possible, a I2s. tin of his Laying Powder, which he puts in his 
 book is I03., carriage paid Mrs Kempson used Mr. Cook's Powder last year, 
 and found it quite wonderful. Mrs. Kempson encloses a P.O. for los. 
 
 Hope Villa, Springfield Road, Bexhill, 
 August 13th, 1888. 
 Dear Sir, — Please send me as under. Your Powder is a thing no one 
 should be without who requires an abundant supply of eggs. I have sixteen 
 young hens fifteen months old; they have averaged 118 each since ist 
 January, not bad, thanks to the Powder. Twelve is. packets, carriage paid, 
 for los. Postal order for los. Please send off at once, and oblige. 
 
 Yours truly, A. WiCKHAM. 
 
 INSECT POWDEH. 
 
 W. Cook's Improved Insect Powder has been proved to destroy all insects on 
 poultry, pigeons, cage birds, dogs, and cats ; also destroys black beetles, and 
 is used largely for household purposes ; its use is indispensable in keeping the 
 nest and sitting hen free from insects ; is perfectly harmless. Should be freely 
 used just before hatching, both on the hen and in the nest, as it is impossible 
 for chickens to thrive when covered with vermin. Sold in tins, 6d. and is. ; 
 by post, 8d. and is, 3d. ; or 5s. tins, carriage paid. 
 
 INSECT POWDER TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 London, S.E. 
 Sir, — I have found your Improved Insect Powder most efficacious — not only 
 in killing the vermin on my poultry, but in my dwelling house. When I came 
 here it was infested, but by using your Powder I have destroyed them all — 
 small vermin, blackbeetles, and also bugs. Yours faithfully, W. W. 
 
 Redcar, 
 Sir, — I cannot speak too highly of your Insect Powder. My birds were 
 not thriving, and on examination I found they were covered with insects, but 
 by a few applications I have succeeded in getting rid of these pests. 
 
 Yours truly, W. JARVIS. 
 
 South Lewis. 
 Sir, — Seeing your Insect Powder advertised, and being tormented with 
 insects, I procured some, and am glad to say that by its occasional use I now 
 keep quite clear of them, I recommend it to all my friends. 
 
 Yours, etc., M, THOMAS. 
 
275 
 •VI7". CO OKI'S 
 
 RO UP POWDE RS. 
 
 PRESCRIPTION FOR MAKING UP THE PILLS, 
 
 For three hens. — Two heaped-up tea-spoonfuls of the Powder, 2 ditto of flour 
 2 ditto of Oatmeal, 2 ditto middlings or any kind of meal, with a small piece of 
 fat of some kind, about the size of a walnut ; mix with a little warm water into 
 a paste, so that it does not stick to the fingers. The Pills should be made about 
 the size of the little finger to the second joint. Give 2 Pills night and morning. 
 If the fowls have the disease very bad, a little extra Powder can be used without 
 doing any injury to the fowl in any way. Though very strong, it is not poisonous. 
 If the invalids cannot eat, they should have something nourishing, such as bread 
 and milk or stewed linseed, given warm. Always let them have as much food 
 as they can digest. When the fowls first show symptoms of Roup they ought to 
 have a teaspoonful of castor oil given to them, and half a teaspoonful of 
 glycerine ; even when they show signs of a cold they can have this given them. 
 Isolate affected birds, and add camphor to all drinking water. Give the un- 
 affected birds the Roup Powder in their morning meal— one heaped-up 
 teaspoonful to 10 fowls. This will often stop the malady from going farther. 
 On a cold or damp day a little of it is most valuable. Wben fowls are going on 
 a journey, a Pill or two will often prevent them from catching cold. Many 
 exhibitors use it and find it most beneficial. A preventive is better than a cure. 
 It has saved the lives of thousands of fowls all over the world, In many cases 
 it has cured them when all other advertised remedies have failed. If fowls are 
 suffering from lowness, or their liver out of order, it soon puts them right and 
 brings a bright lustre on their plumage, which improves them very much for the 
 show pen. When a fowl has a rattling in her throat and difficulty in drawing 
 her breath, give her a teaspoonful of glycerine, and when convenient stew some 
 linseed and give from 6 to 8 teaspoonfuls warm. Keep the affected birds on straw, 
 or moss peat ; the latter is much the best. When the birds have swollen eyes 
 bathe them in milk and water with a little camphor in it. Always wipe the face 
 and eyes dry ; if not, they catch a fresh cold. When a fowl has a thick discharge, 
 called mucus, which corrodes round the tongue and throat, write me for lotion, 
 gd. per bottle, per post loid. Directions for use of same '.—Take a feather, 
 which dip in lotion, apply to the bird's mouth and throat, turn the feather well 
 round the mouth — in this way it will bring much of the thick slime away. In 
 bad cases it requires a second feather to repeat ; then it is well to take a 
 feather and dip in glycerine and also mop out mouth with that. This heals the 
 wound. If this treatment is continued night and morning, the reward will be 
 the bird's recovery. Price : — 2S. tin, by post 2S. 4jd. ; is. tin, by post is. 3d. ; 
 £d. tin, by post, gd.; or 5s. tin, carriage paid, 5s. ; 123. tin for los. 
 
 SPECIAL QUOTATIONS FOR LARGER ORDERS. 
 
 Can be had at any corn chandler's in the United Kingdom, Special ar- 
 rangements made with Agents for sending it abroad. 
 
 CASH TO ACCOMPANY ALL ORDERS. 
 
 T 2 
 
276 
 ROUP POWDER TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 SL Leonard's Poultry Farm, Ringwood, Hants. 
 Dear Sir, — Please send us, early in April, 28 lbs. of your Roup Powder, 
 and 28 lbs. of your Poultry Powder, and if you like to make use of this you 
 are welcome to do so. We have used your Roup Powder under the most 
 trying circumstances possible, and have found it most efficacious. 
 
 I remain, yours faithfully, J. M, REYNVAAN, Manager. 
 
 Berwick St. James, Salisbury, August 9th. 
 Dear Sir, — Please send me one box of Roup Pills for poultry. I am 
 pleased to tell you I took first prize at our Show for a Plymouth Rock cockerel 
 and pullet under six months old, and shown with adult birds. These were 
 bred irom a cockerel and pullet I bought from you. I have three pullets, the 
 same age as those shown, and they all commenced laying when they were four 
 months and three weeks old, and have continued laying ever since. 
 
 Yours truly, T. KXTLEY. 
 
 Freeman Lodge, St. Peter's, Kent, January i6th. 
 Miss Wood will be glad if Mr. Cook will send her is. tin of Roup Powder 
 to the above address at his earliest convenience. Miss Wood has found the 
 last tin she had of great service. Stamps enclosed for the amount. 
 
 Hillside, Ewshot, Farnham, March 6th, 1889. 
 Dear Sir, — Please find stamps enclosed, value lo^d., for you to send me, 
 early, a bottle of your Lotion for roup in short-faced tumblers, and oblige. 
 Yours- very truly, ALFRED J. BRITTON. 
 P.S. — The last bottle of L,otion I received of you cured five short-faced 
 tumblers of canker in the mouth, and very speedily, A. J. B. 
 
 57, Idmiston Road, Stratford, E. 
 Dear Sir, — I am very pleased to state that the Black Minorca hen 
 which was almost dead through diptheric roup, which I brought to you for 
 examination, and for which you advised your Roup Powder and Lotion, is 
 now, and has been for some time, perfectly well and in full lay s^ain. Had 
 it not been for your Lotion and treatment, it would have been killed j but the 
 thought occurred to my mind, perhaps you could cure it. Thanking you very 
 much, 
 
 I remain, yours faithfully, E. TAFFS. 
 
 Windmill Terrace, Bregstock, nr. Thrapstone. 
 Sir, — Please send me Ss. worth of your Roup Powders, as I find them 
 excellent for young chickens and for hens going light. I will not be without 
 them if I can avoid it, 1 remain, yours, &c., A, CROSS. 
 
 Ruthven Street, Auchterarder, N.B. 
 Dear Sir,— Please send us a tin of your Roup Powder. The last we had 
 cured every case, and some of the fowls were nearly dead wifli roup. 
 
 We are, yours respectfully, A. & W. GRAHAM. 
 
277 
 
 Piper Lane, Otley, Yorks. 
 Dear Sir,— Please forward a further supply of Roup Powder. I gave a 
 small quantity to a friend, and he said it was the most wonderful th'rig )et 
 invented for roup. He is a breeder of Show, Homers, and Owls. We haa 
 two young ones almost dead through roup, and what I gaye ,^™ =°™P'|;^'*' 
 cured them. I remain, yours faithfully, MA RK SUTTLL. 
 
 " wl COOIC'S 
 
 DOG BISCUITS. 
 
 — « — 
 
 For several years past my customers and other people have asked me to supply 
 them with a good Biscuit for Dogs. The feeding of these animals I have for 
 a long time past made a study of. I have kept a good number of them, and 
 have bred rather largely. I have made --^ thorough test of the Biscuits 
 which I am now bringing out to the public, ar.d I am sure that dog fanciers 
 who may give them a trial will continue to use them. These Biscuits will 
 keep dogs in perfect health, with a nice gloss on their coats. Dogs that are 
 fed upon them need nothing else, except some grass, as medicine, supplied 
 to them during the spring and summer months. Grass to eat is the best 
 medicine they can have. I have put these Biscuits in price within the reach 
 of all dog keepers, considering the quality of the materials used in making 
 them. There are many cheap Dog Biscuits in the market, and I could make 
 Biscuits for 9s. 6d. per cwt., but the materials used for these cheap productions 
 are very common, and not at all suitable for dogs, and are injurious to their 
 health. Dogs should not have their Biscuits soaked, except occasionally for a 
 change. They are naturally strong in their jaws, and require something hard 
 to bite to keep their teeth in good preservation, and, as their digestive organs 
 are strong, it is unnatural for them to be fed continually on soft food ; fed in 
 this manner their coats become loose, they lose stamina, and lay on fat 
 instead of muscle. A dog will run much faster and longer fed on dry instead 
 of soaked Biscuits, and do a great deal more work. Biscuits should alwa}s 
 be broken and not given to them whole, not even to large dogs. Price : — 
 iSs. per cwt. ; 7s. gd. per ^ cwt. ; 4'. per J cwt. Carriage free on i cwt. to 
 any railway station in Englaiid. 
 
 W. COOK'S 
 
 IMPROVED POULTBY MEAL. 
 
 ♦ 
 
 This Meal was brought out especially for use during the Autumn and Winter 
 months, to help the fowls through their moult, and to bring all kinds of Poultry 
 on to lay quickly. It has been used with great success for the last two years 
 by exhibitors of high-class fowls for rearing their prize stock. It is quite 
 different from anything else which has been introduced, and the price is very 
 moderate according to the quality. 
 
 IT IS VERY NUTRITIOUS. ONLY A SMALL QUANTITY IS REQUIRED. 
 
278 
 
 ROUP & CONDITION PILLS 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 There are many who keep poultry who have not the time and some not the 
 patience to mix the Roup Powder into Pills, 1 am, therefore, compelled to 
 do it myself, as T get so many applications for the Pills, The Roup Powder 
 has proved the best remedy ever sold. I have hundreds of testimonials from 
 all parts, stating it has cured birds where all other remedies have failed. The 
 Pills will be of great advantage to some, especially those who do not attend to 
 their own birds themselves and keep a large number. When a fowl is a little 
 out of sorts, it should be caught and the Pills administered. Sold in 3s. 6d., 
 2s , IS., and 6d. boxes ; post free, 3s. 8d., 2s. 2d., is. ijd,, and yd. 
 
 POULTRY PILLS TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 Lozells, Aston, Birmingham. 
 Sir, — I had a Minorca hen very ill ; in fact, I was afraid I should lose feer. 
 but by giving her six of your Pills her life was saved and she is now laying 
 well. You may make what use you like of this. 
 
 Yours truly, A. M. 
 
 23, Walpole Street, Wolverhampton. 
 Sir, — I thank you for the advice you gave me respecting the hen which was 
 ill. I thought I should have lost her, until you advised the Roup Pills ; after 
 administering them three days I could see a gradual change. Now she has 
 quite recovered, and is in a healthy condition, 
 
 Yours, etc., JAS. MORGAN. 
 
 Newport, I.W. 
 Sir, — I am glad to tell you that I found the Pills you sent me most effica- 
 cious, and with the use of your Roup Lotion (of which I cannot speak too 
 highly), I have got quite clear of the diphtheric roup, although I was afraid I 
 should have lost them all. Yours respectfully, W, ELDER. 
 
279 
 
 
 OINTMENT FOR SCALY LEGS 
 
 This Ointment is a perfect cure for the above complaint. It should be well 
 lubbed on daily, and in a few days the legs will be well. This Ointment is 
 excellent for chapped hands, cuts, sore places, &c., as its healing properties 
 are so great. 
 
 Sold in 6d. and is. Boxes, Post free, 7jd. and is. 2d, 
 
 OINTMENT TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 Kingsland, London, N, 
 Sir, — I have found your Ointment for scaly legs excellent, A few applica- 
 tions quite removed the old scales, leaving the new ones underneath, I 
 recommend it to all my poultry friends. 
 
 Yours truly, JOHN METCALFE. 
 
 Middlesborough. 
 Sir, — Your Ointment has quite cured my birds of scaly legs ; their legs 
 were in a very bad state. Yours, etc., E. T. 
 
 GERM A.lSr 
 MOSS PEA/r_LITTER. 
 
 Moss-peat, instead of dust, ashes, or lime in the house, is the greatest boon to 
 poultry-keepers of anything that I know. It saves time, keeps the bouses clean, 
 and is in every way a boon to the fowls themselves. See my remarks on this 
 subject in my book. If the houses are cleaned out four or five times a year, it 
 would be quite often enough, as the peat does away with all smells. When once 
 used, a poultry-keeper would not be without it for anything. It merely requires 
 stirring up occasionally. 
 
 Sold in half-hundredweight Bags 3S. 3d- 
 
 Three Bags gs. od. 
 
 (Bags and Free Delivery, per Carter, Paterson, included.) , 
 
 Bales, weighing between 2 and 3 cwt gs. od. 
 
 By the ton 4Ss. od. 
 
 „ half ton 23s. od. 
 
 (Purchasers must pay carriage on these quantities.) 
 
 My London Office, 105, Borough, S.E., is open daily. Eggs and birds are 
 there for sale in the season, and I attend myself on Saturday from 1 1 a.m. to 
 6 p.m., and on Monday 2 30 to 6 p.m., for the purpose of giving advice gratis on 
 all matters connected with Poultry to those who are, through business, unable to 
 come at other times. 
 
28o 
 
 ROUP & CONDITION PILLS 
 
 FOR 
 
 PIGEONS. 
 
 Owing to the great demand for Pills for pigeons for colds and roup, and to 
 help them through their moult, or when they are drooping and a little out of 
 sorts, these Pills have been manufactured, and are found invaluable. _ When a 
 pigeon has roup, give two Pills at night ; if only a little out of condition, give 
 one Pill. So'd in 3s. 6d., 2s., Is , and 6d. boxes ; or, post free, 3s. 8d., 2s., 
 IS. i^d., and y^d. 
 
 PIGEON PILLS TESTIMONIAL. 
 
 Douglas. 
 Sir, — Your .Pigeon Pills I have found very good. I keep a number of 
 Homing Antwerps and Barbs, and whenever I see a bird queer I just catch it 
 and give it one of your Pills, and if not better I keep it up, and give it two 
 night and morning, and invariably they get better. I have not lost one 
 through illness since using your Pills. Yours, etc., JAMES SALTER. 
 
 W. COOK'S JMMOCATION. 
 
 Fowls are frequently affected with rheumatism and cramp in their legs and 
 feet, especially in cold and damp weather. This Embrocation is invaluable 
 in these cases. If it is well rubbed on their legs and feet it relieves them at 
 once. It is also good for young chickens affected in the same way. It is a 
 great boon to poultry-keepers, and has never been known to fail. 
 
 Sold in 6d. and is. bottles. Free by post for 8d. and is. 3d. 
 
 EMBROCATION TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 Winchester, Hants. 
 Sir, — I am glad to say I have found your Embrocation for cramp in the 
 legs very good indeed. By treating the birds as you recommend they soon get 
 all right again. Yours faithfully, EDMUND JONES. 
 
 Kilkenny, Ireland. 
 Sir, — The Embrocation yon sent me quite cured my fowls of cramp. After 
 a few days' treatment I was able to let them run out in the pen. 
 
 Yours, etc., JAMES McKENNA. 
 
28l 
 
 -W. COOK'S 
 
 PREPARED GRIT 
 
 FOR ALL KINDS OF 
 
 Pigeons' Giit 14s. od. „ i cwt. > - -^ - 
 
 Poultry, Ducks, Pigeons, and Cage Birds. 
 
 ♦^ 
 
 Sharp Grit is one of tlie things which are necessary if Birds and Poultry 
 are to be kept in good health. The failure of many Poultry Keepers can be 
 traced to the absence of, or an insufficient supply of, this article (which should 
 have very sharp edges), as it is the only means they have for properly 
 digesting their food in the absence of the teeth which are found in human 
 beings and animals. There is nothing to equal Flint Grit, which I supply at 
 the undermentioned prices : — 
 
 Fowls' Grit 14s. od. per I cwt. 1 
 
 7s. 6d. „ f cwt. I .j,jjg3g 
 
 4s. od. „ icwt. I reasonably 
 
 IS. od. „ 7 lbs. ;• ' 
 
 4s. od. „ I cwt. Q /^ Train. 
 7s. 6d. ,, i-cwt. I 
 
 „ 45 od. „ i-cwt.J 
 
 „ IS. od. ,, 7 lbs. ; post free for 23. 
 
 Small Cage Birds' Grit 14s od. ,, i cwt. j pg^ Goods 
 
 7s 6d. „ |-cwt. ^ .j.^^;„_ 
 
 „ ,1 4S. od. „ i-cwt. ) 
 
 ,, ,, IS. od. ,, 7 lb. bags ; post free, 2s. 
 
 ,, ,, Small bags, 6d. ; post free, IS. 
 
 Chickens' Grit 14s. od. per i cwt. 
 
 » 7s- 6d. „ i-cwt. 
 
 4s- °i- >> i-cwt, 
 
 „ IS, od. ,, 7 lbs. ; post free, 2s. 
 
 I cwt. Grit cirriage paid to any Railway Station in England. A reduction is 
 made where a large quantity is taken. 
 
 W. COOK'SjmMGJ'OWDERS. 
 
 These Powders are very useful in assisting poultry to put on fat and to keep 
 them in health at the same time ; they give them a keen appetite, and assist 
 digestion. 
 
 For 12 Fowls, one dessert-spoonful three times a week, 
 
 „ 10 Ducks ,, „ „ „ 
 
 „ 6 Turkeys „ „ „ ,, 
 
 Sold in Tins, is., 5s., and los. ; by post, is. 3d. ; carriage paid 
 
 on the 5s. and los. tins, 
 
 SPECIAL QUOTATIONS FOR LARGER ORDERS. 
 
28j 
 
 W. COOK'S 
 
 Price List of Meal and Com 
 
 Meal Bags included. Delivered free to any Goods Railway Station in London. 
 
 CASH OR P.O.O. WITH ALL ORDERS. 
 
 
 I cwt. 
 
 ^-cwt. 
 
 fcwt 
 
 Improved Poultry Meal ... 
 
 
 19 
 
 9 9 
 
 S 
 
 Poultry Biscuit Meal 
 
 
 17 
 
 8 10 
 
 4 8 
 
 General Poultry Meal 
 
 
 12 6 
 
 6 7 
 
 3 6 
 
 W. Cook's Special Poultry Meal. 
 
 
 IS 
 
 7 9 
 
 4 
 
 Bone Meal 
 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 3 9 
 
 Granulated Meat 
 
 
 21 
 
 10 6 
 
 S 6 
 
 Ground Oyster Shells 
 
 
 9 
 
 4 6 
 
 i 6 
 
 Meat Dog Biscuits 
 
 
 IS 
 
 7 9 
 
 4 
 
 Groats (whole), extra quality . 
 
 
 19 6 
 
 lo 
 
 S 3 
 
 S cwt. of either Meal or Dog Biscuits, or part of each, made up to that 
 quantity, carriage paid to any Railway Station in England. 
 
 The above prices include bags, and also free delivery in Carter, Paterson's 
 London district. 
 
 
 Sack. 
 
 ^-sack. 
 
 Bu-h. 
 
 Wheat (best) 
 
 19 
 
 10 
 
 S 
 
 Buckwheat (best French) 
 
 i8 
 
 9 
 
 4 6 
 
 Barley 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 4 6 
 
 Maize (small round) 
 
 i8 
 
 9 
 
 4 6 
 
 Dari 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 4 6 
 
 Prices of Corn are subject to alteration according to Markets, 
 Free on Rail in London, 
 
 Sacks charged is 46.., i-bushel bags, 6d. each, but allowed for if returned to 
 London Warehouse within six days. 
 
 Carter, Paterson will bring back all empties free of charge. 
 
283 
 
 Is the best I ever used for Poultry — either laying hens, young growing 
 chickens, turkeys, or pheasants. It can be mixed with cold or warm water ; 
 contains bone meal, oatmeal, and a small quantity of meat and other nutritious 
 materials. It has given the greatest satisfaction to all my customers that have 
 tried it. 
 
 This is a cheap and useful meal, especially where the fowls have scraps from 
 the house. It is much relished by fowls (also by cows, horses, sheep, &c.). 
 It will mix with cold or hot water (not boiling) without becoming sticky. It is 
 often used with the Biscuit Meal, as it helps to bind the latter, 
 
 ♦ 
 
 This is one of the best meals of the kind in the market, as great care is taken 
 in the baking of it. It contains a large percentage of meat and a little oyster 
 shell. This meal can be mixed with cold or boiling water. When mixed 
 with cold water, it should be allowed to soak for eight or ten minutes before 
 being given to the fowls. It is a very bulky food, and swells very much 
 after mixing. 
 
 POULTRY FOOD TESTIMONIALS. 
 
 Arbury Road, Nuneaton, December 8th, 1888. 
 Dear Sir, — At the end of August last I had i cwt. of your Special Poultry 
 Meal, and some of your Powders. I then put together a pen of white pullets 
 (half-bred White Leghorns) ; three were hatched end of April, and three on 
 May 7th. Their morning meal has been alternately your Special Meal, and 
 barley meal and sharps, with a teaspoonful of poultry powders— occasionally 
 I have used a little roup powder. The result i=, that on November 14th I had 
 the first egg from this pen, and by the 26th November all the six laid, as on 
 that dayj had six eggs— from the 26th November to this date (13 days) 56 
 eggs. This to my mind is good average laying. It is very evident your frod 
 and powder are very good for bringing on young fowls to lay early. Awaiting 
 the favour of your reply, 
 
 Yours truly, GEORGE CLAY. 
 
28t 
 
 Samuel Street, Woolwich. 
 Sir,— I am glad to tell you that your Biscuit Meal and Powders are working 
 wonders in promoting the laying of my hens. I am very pleased indeed with 
 the results obtained from feeding on your system. Yours truly, H. HANN. 
 
 Emmett Lodge, Chobham, Surrey, 
 November 13th, 1888. 
 Dear Sir, — I received the meals, &c., safely, and am well pleased with 
 them. I see a tremendous difference in my fowls already. I am sure it is 
 due to you, for the Insect Powder, Grit, etc., have improved them. I will send 
 you a cheque in a day or two. Yours faithfully, DANVERS HAMBER. 
 
 4, Montrose Villas, The Terrace, Hammersmith, W. 
 Dear Sir, — I enclose postal order for 15s. and 3s. worth of stamps for 
 buckwheat, Special Meal, and two fountains, which arrived safe, and cannot, 
 I think, be spoken too highly of, for my fowls seem to relish and enjoy them. 
 We cannot get them here, and the fountains are a great boon, much better 
 than the tins I have been using. I may tell you in this I took your advice of 
 giving the cock some of your Roup Pills ; you will remember I told you I had 
 him indoors, where we kept him for a fortnight giving him the pills. He got 
 quite well, and now seems as strong as a lion, also a fine looking fellow ; and 
 as for the pullet, she is a picture^ fine shape, and much larger ; although she 
 has not laid yet, I think she will not be long. We are very pleased indeed 
 with them, so that we tell everyone we know what good birds yours are. 
 
 Believe yours, &c., GEO. CROFT. 
 
 Lurgan House, East Molesey. 
 Thanks to the advice you are always so willing to give, and to your book, 
 which I find invaluable, my birds are always in good health. I feed them on 
 your Meals, and use your Powders and sharp grit, which I find excellent for 
 fowls kept in confinement. Yours, &c., E. FOLLETT. 
 
 Warton Grange, Carnforth. 
 Mrs. Barton has pleasure in saying, in reply to Mr. Cook's inquiry of the 
 15th, that the Poultry Food he has supplied her with has been in every way 
 satisfactory. The Buff Cochin chickens reared with it have grown well and 
 feathered well, which she attributes to the carefully-selected and judiciously- 
 mixed food on which they have been fed as supplied by Mr. Cook, 
 
 Bragborough Hall, Rugby. 
 Lady Evelyn Riddell is much pleased with Mr. William Cook's 
 Biscuit Meal, and also with his Poultry Powders, which she has found 
 excellent, not only for fowls of all ages, but also for young pheasants. 
 
 Havering Well House, Homchurch, Romford. 
 
 Dear Sir,— I have great pleasure in testifying to the excellence of the 
 Poultry Meal supplied to me by you. I consider it one of the best foods I 
 have ever used. 
 
 Mr. Cook. H. J, PIKE. 
 
285 
 
 St. John's Park, Blackheath, 
 Dear Sir, — I began to keep poultry here about two years ago, and I have 
 used your Poultry Meal and Corn during the whole of that time. I have been 
 very successful with my poultry, both in the number of eggs obtained, and in 
 the broods of chickens reared. I attribute this in a great measure to the 
 excellence of the food and corn which you have supplied me with, and to the 
 directions given to me by you, which I have followed very carefully. 
 Mr. Cook. Yours very truly, EDWARD D. DRURY. 
 
 To Mr. Cook. 
 Sir, — I have much pleasure in saying that I have used your General Meal 
 now for over two years with complete success, my birds keeping always well 
 and in fine plumage, and laying splendidly. With the addition of a very little 
 of your Poultry Powder my birds laid all last winter, only missing six days ; 
 and, without the usual fattening'process, my cockerels of this year were ready 
 for table at five months old. I enclose my card. 
 
 Reigate. 
 Dear Sir, — I have much pleasure in bearing testimony to the excellence of 
 your Poultry Biscuit Meal and General Poultry Meal, having used them most 
 successfully in the rearing of young chickens and as general meals for adult 
 fowls ; I only keep a few, and last year I was but twelve days without eggs, 
 which speaks most highly of their egg-producing qualities. It gives me great 
 pleasure to recommend your Poultry Meals to my friends. 
 
 Yours faithfully, 
 Mr Cook. WILLIAM E. BLACKISTON. 
 
 Elmsleigh Hall, near Leicester. 
 
 Sir, — I have much pleasure in testifying to the quality of your Poultry 
 Foods. Please send me the same quantity of food— 5 cwt. I have also found 
 your Poultry Powders very useful. Yours truly, 
 
 Mr. W. Cook, Orpington. PERCY STAFFORD. 
 
 Ringwood, Newhampton. 
 Dear Sir, — Please send me another cwt. of your Biscuit Meal. I like it 
 better than any other meal I have ever used. My hens lay better since I com- 
 menced to feed them with it, and I consider it good value for the money. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 Mr. Cook. C. H, MUSSELWHITE, 
 
 Ivy House, Swinton. 
 Dear Sir, — In reply to your note respecting your Poultry Food, I have 
 very much pleasure in recommending it to all poultry keepers, having used it 
 myself for the last six months with very good results. 
 
 Yours truly, 
 Mr. Cook. PERCY H. LEIGH. 
 
286 
 THE 
 
 POULTRY JOURNAL ; 
 
 How to make Poultry Pay, 
 
 Edited by WILLIAM COOK. 
 Published by 
 
 E. V^. ALLEN, Ave Maria Lane, E.G. 
 
 'T^ HIS is a Monthly Paper, and is the only monthly journal in England which 
 is devoted entirely to Poultry. It has been said that a paper which did 
 not include other pets (such as Rabbits, Pigeons, and Cage Birds) would not 
 pay. The first number appeared in June, 1886. In each number there is a 
 chapter of Hints for the Current Month, according to the season of the year, 
 showing how to manage both the old and young stock, &c. There are short 
 chapters on ducks, turkeys, and geese, and their management, &c., when kept 
 in small runs. Questions are answered through the columns of this Paper, 
 and also free by post by enclosing a stamped and addressed envelope. Post- 
 mortem Examinations are made on all kinds of Poultry for the nominal sum 
 of IS. each. All specimens for examination to be sent, carriage paid, to 
 105, Borough, London, S.E. The Reports appear in the Monthly Journal, 
 and in cases of urgency, if a stamped and addressed envelope is enclosed, 
 they are answered by post. In cases of contagious disease, a letter of in- 
 struction is sent free of any other charge. Specimen copy of the journal 
 sent free of charge. Name and address to accompany each specimen, not 
 necessarily for publication. 
 
 PRICE TWOPENCE PER COPY. 
 
 POSTAL SUBSCRIPTION: Three Months, Ud. ; Six Months, Is. 3d. 
 Twelve Months, 2s. 8d., payable in advance. 
 
287 
 
 Hundreds of Letters have been received stating how useful the 
 Journal has been. 
 
 St. Alban's, Herts. 
 Sir, — I am most pleased with your Monthly Journal. The Hints for the 
 Month have been exceedingly useful to me. Yours truly, J. W. S. 
 
 Gamlingay. 
 Sir, — I am sure your Monthly Journal has already been a great boon to 
 many. I look for it eagerly every month. Each number seems better than 
 its predecessor. Yours, etc., J. MARSH. 
 
 Manchester. 
 Sir, — I cannot speak too highly of your Monthly Poultry Journal. It is 
 full of sound, practical, and instructive matter, which cannot fail to be in- 
 stnictive to all. Yours faithfully, WILLIAM SMART. 
 
 Oldham. 
 Sir, — Your Monthly Journal has been a great help to me. I wish you 
 every success. I am sure it will soon get the very large circulation it so richly 
 deserves. Yours truly, J. JONES. 
 
 London, S.E. 
 Sir, — I must congratulate you on your Monthly Poultry Journal. I have 
 found in it many useful hints, although I have kept poultry for many years. 
 It is a most excellent paper for amateurs, as the advice is so practical. It is 
 useful alike for amateurs and those who have had experience in poultry 
 keeping. Yours faithfully, JOHN WILLIAMS. 
 
 Sir,— Your Poultry Journal has been very instructive to me, the chapters 
 on crossing being most useful. It is not filled with useless show reports, but 
 with good sound information. Yours, etc., WILLIAM SEARLE. 
 
 Sir, — I am sure your Poultry Journal will become very popular, as it is 
 filled each month with such information as cannot fail to give instruction 
 to all who read it, whether amateur or poultry farmer. 
 
 Yours truly, U. DANE. 
 
 W.COOK'S POULTRY ACCOUNT BOOK. 
 
 THE MOST COMPLETE METHOD PUBLISHED. 
 Price IS. ; post free, is. i^d. 
 
 TO BE OBTAINED OF 
 
 COOK, " The Waldens," St. Mary Cray, Kent Qats of Tower House, 
 Orpington), and Queen's Head Yard, 105, Borough, S.E. ; E, W. ALLEN, 
 Ave Maria Lane, London. 
 
W. COOK'S 
 
 POULTET REQUISITES. 
 
 W. COOK'S POULTRY FOOD BINS, 
 
 These articles supply a long-felt want amongst Poultry-keepers 
 and fanciers. They are made of strong Wrought Iron, Galvanized. 
 Where food is kept in bags or boxes a constant source of annoy- 
 ance is caused by Vermin. By using these Bins all this is avoided. 
 They are produced at such prices that they are within the reach 
 of all ; the outlay would soon be paid by the saving in food. 
 
 No. 
 
 I. 
 
 Round Bushel 
 
 7S. 6d. 
 
 )) 
 
 2. 
 
 jf ,j ... ... 
 
 IIS. 6d. 
 
 37 
 
 4- 
 
 n )j 
 
 19s. 6d. 
 
 No. 
 
 I. 
 
 Square Bushel (with Divs.) 
 
 9s 6d. 
 
 )) 
 
 2. 
 
 jj j» }i 
 
 14s. 6d. 
 
 j> 
 
 4- 
 
 )) a 11 
 
 25s. od. 
 
COOK'S POULTKT BREEDEE AND PBEDEE. — Advertisements, 
 
 NOTICE, 
 
 On account of the enormous demand for 
 
 W. COOK'S OWN STRAIN OF BIRDS 
 
 he has been obliged to disappoint many of his 
 customers in the past, some having had to watt 
 twelve months for their supply. 
 
 He is glad to state, however, this will not be 
 the case in future, as during the present season 
 he has bred many thousand Pirds, and is there- 
 fore in a position to supply all orders as received, 
 either for home purposes or shipment abroad. 
 
 CHANGE OF ADDRESS. 
 
 Will all customers telegraphing to W. Cook's 
 COUNTRY ADDRESS kindly note that there is 
 Sixpence Delivery to be paid on each telegram, 
 which should be pre-paid? 
 
 "THE ^WJ^LIDEIsrS," 
 
 ST. MARY CRAY, KENT 
 
 (late tower house, orpington, kent), 
 
 AND AT 
 
 QUEEN'S HEAD YARD, 105, BOROUGH, 
 
 LONDON S.E. 
 
COOK'S POITLTET BREEDER AND FEEDER. — Ad/oeHisements. 
 
 CHICKS 
 
 SPRATT'S" PATENT 
 
 L I M I T E D, 
 
 POULTRY MEAL 
 
 GRANULATED PRAIRIE MEAT 
 " O IFL I S S ]E3 Ij," 
 
 Are FIT for the TABLE SOONER, and have MORE STAMINA than 
 when any other Food is used. 
 
 FOR BREEDING BIRD S 
 
 POULTRY MEAL 
 
 "CRISSEL" 
 
 Increases the Number and Fertility of the Eggs. 
 
 1-l-J 
 
 28/- per cwt.; 14/6 per ^ cwt.; 7/6 per i cwt. ; 
 4/- per 14 lbs. ; 8/- per 7 lbs. 
 
 sa-: m:fl.es fost fr ee. 
 
 New Edition of " THE COMMON SENSE OF POULTRY KEEPING." 
 3d, Post Free. Contains full and practical information on Poultiy 
 Eeajring, Housingj Feeding, &c. 
 
 SPRATT'S PATENT LIMITED, LONDON S.E. 
 
OOOK'a POTTLTRY BREEDER AND FKBDEB, — Adoertisemeota 
 
 Purveyors by Special Warrants to H.M. The QUEEN and 
 H.R.H. Th3 PRINCE OF WALES. 
 
 SPRATT'S PATENT 
 
 MEAT "PIBaiKTE " VEaETABLE 
 
 DOG CAKES 
 
 (WITH BEETROOT). 
 ^exva.!?^ C3f 'Wox-'fcla.lesa Xzxi.i'tEi.'tl^zxs. 
 
 See each Cake is stamped "SPRATT'S PATENT "and a" X." 
 20s. per Owt. 
 
 PET DOG BISCUITS. 
 
 KE£!P TEE BREATH SWEET AND THE COAT HEALTHY. 
 
 2s. 3d. per 71b. Tin, 4s. 6d. per 141b. Tin. 
 
 PUPPY BISCUITS. 
 
 2s. per 71b. Tin, 4s. per 141b. Tin, 20s. per Cwt. Bag. 
 
 PAMPHLET ON CANINE DISEASES and Full List 
 of Medicines Post Free. 
 
 DOG, POULTRY, and GAME HOUSES and 
 Appliances. Illustrated List Post Free. 
 
 "Speatt's Biscuits have many things to recommend them— cleanliness of 
 preparation, purity of meat and flour, friability, and general wholesomeness, 
 AU dogs bark in their favour, and all dog-owners who try them swear by them. 
 I have, myself, dined on a Spratt Cake and a glass of milk. 
 
 " GORDON STABLES, M-D., E.N." 
 
 Of all Dealers, or of 
 
 SPRATT'S PATENT Limited, London, S.E. 
 
cook's poultry bbebder and peedee. — Advertisements, 
 
 CHICKEN CRAMMING BY MACHINERY! 
 
 ■I 
 
 T is not generally known that the fine Fat Poultry and Capons London is supplied 
 with are forced forward in the progress of fattening by the system called 
 ' Cramming.* 
 
 " This system has been practised lor many years in Surrey and Sussex. It is 
 carried out by pushing a soft, rich barleymeal ball (well saturated and moistened with 
 greasy buttermilk) down the throat of the chick. The bird is held between the knees, 
 then with one hand the 'Crammer' opens its mouth, and with the other hand inserts 
 the * bolus/ which is pushed down the throat by stroking gently both sides of the neck. 
 
 " Crammed Poultry can be detected by the neck being always bare of feathers. 
 This method is now improved upon by using a Gutta Percha Tube, which is attached 
 to the Machine ; the tube is thrust down the throat into the crop, and the food begins to 
 find its way down as the wheel of the Machine is turned. By this means a great 
 number of fowls can be fed or crammed in a little time. Two weeks' full feeding is 
 su£ScieDt, as they are generally in good condition when put into coops. Great weight 
 is obtained by this mode of fattening ; a couple of fowls weighing i6-lbs. is no un- 
 common sight when they are capons. 
 
 " It is said the fowls enjoy the tube process."— I. a»^ and Water, 
 
 John Every has for several years manufactured Machines specially made 
 for the above purpose, which are used by most of the large Poultry Farmers, 
 t o whom the same have given great satisfaction. 
 
 No. 1.— Barrel holding ahout 3 Quarts - - - - Price £2 15 6 
 
 No. 2.— „ „ 6 Quarts - - - - „ £4 15 6 
 
 No. 3 — „ „ 9 Quarts - - - - „ £6 15 6 
 
 India Rubber Nozzles ---------- 20 
 
 The above are strong ^ thoroughly well made, and have Barrels " Engifie Bored J* 
 
 JOHN EVERY, 
 
 PHCENIX IRON WORKS, 
 
cook's poultry breeder and febdbb. — Advertisement!, ^ 
 ESTABLISHED 18S0. 
 
 ■WILLIAM QKf'K, 
 
 BOOK, NEWSPAPER 
 
 AND 
 
 GENERAL PRINTER, 
 WHOLESALE & EXPORT PUBLISHER, 
 
 HOGARTH HOUSE, 
 
 EOUVEEIE STEEET. FLEET STEEET, 
 
 i:.ox)iri3C3Ziir, si.cs. 
 
 MACHINING FOR THE TRADE 
 UP TO 4-ROYAL, ON 
 
 ROTARY, FAST-CYLINDER, AMD WHARFEDALE MACHIMES. 
 
 Estimates for All Classes of Work supplied upon 
 Application. 
 
cook's poultbt beeedbb and feeder. — Advertisevients. 
 
 POULTRY APPLIANCES 
 
 Are recommended by the " St03k Keeper," the " Fanciers' Gazette," the " Poultry 
 Journal," the " Enral "World," the " Farmers' Gazette," &c., &a. 
 
 THE " -WESTMEBIA" IWCTJBATOB (Patented) 
 Hatches eggs all the year round, hatches equally well the eggs of Turkeys, - 
 Geese, Ducks, Hens, Pheasants, &c., &c. It embraces all the most important 
 improTcments of the day, and is undoubtedly the best hatching apparatus yet 
 offered to the public. 
 
 Hehet Digbt, Esq., Birchencliffe, Huddersfield, the well known Champion. 
 Exhibitor — winner of the Aylesbury Challenge Cup, the Palace Cup, Ac, fflc— 
 writes, April 16th, 1889 :— 
 Dear Sih, Bikchencliffe, Huddersfield, April, 1889. 
 
 I am more than satisned with my"WE8TMEHiA Incubator." It has proved a decided buccbsb. 
 DucklingB come out atrong and healthy, for your moisture arrangemeut is to my mind perfect. 
 I am delighted with what a small amount of trouble it can be worked, in comparison with 
 other Incubators I have seen in this district. The results I have obtained from this one have 
 given me such satisfaction that I have decided to go in for one of your 100-sized machines.- 
 Kindly put one in hand and let me have it at your earliest convenience. 
 
 Tours very truly, HENRY DIGBY. 
 THE ""WESTMEBIA" BBOODEE OB BEABEE (Patented) 
 Is quite different to anything of the kind ever brought out. It is simplicity 
 itself 1 It keeps the chickens strong and healthy, the lamp never blows out, and 
 the apparatus may be placed outside in all weathers. In fact, snow, hail, wind^ 
 or rain, may do their worst, but they won't affect the " Webtmbria " Brooder. 
 
 H. A. Hood Daniel, Esq., a well-known gentleman in the West of England, 
 writes : — 
 Dear Sir, Chabefields, Fishponds, Gloucestershire. 
 
 Having given your Brooder a fair trial, I am pleased to and can assuredly say that I have 
 found no Kearer so easily and satisfactorily worked as the " Westmehia." 
 
 It is now merry with the sound of chickens hatched in one of your lOO-Egg Incubators, and 
 they are certainly very happy and contented, at the same time thriving well. My man saya 
 it costs not one-Sourth the trouble that others we used last season did, its whole construction 
 being conducive to the warmth, comfort, and rapid growth of the chickens, its grass arrange' 
 ment being a very valuable .feature. Yours truly, H. A. HOOD DANIEL, F.S.I. 
 
 THE "WESTMEBIA" CHICKEN COOP (Beg. BTo. 110.419) 
 Is the best and handiest in existence. Butler Smith, Esq., the large and 
 well-known breeder of Dorkings, writes, January 17th, 1889 : — 
 
 ' I ram very much pleased with the "Webtmbria" Coops you have sent me. They are 
 decidedly the best I nave seen." 
 
 THE "\FESTMEBIA" POULTBT HOUSE 
 Is undoubtedly the most compact and portable house ever brought out. It is 
 designed so that a lady can do everything in the way of cleaning without soiling 
 the hands. Its nest arrangement is excellent, and there are no comers in which 
 vermin can harbour. This poultry house is strongly recommended, being made 
 of sterling material, and well put together. 
 
 THE "WESTMEBIA" OOCKEBEIj HOUSE AND BUN 
 Protects your exhibition cockerels from sun and weather, gives them fresh 
 ground, continusJly keeps them in fine bloom and condition. One of the great 
 secrets of successful exhibiting is the use of the "Westmbeia" Cockerel 
 House and Bun. 
 
 THE "WESTMEHIA" WATEB POUliTTAIISr (Beg. No. 113,411) 
 Is the neatest thing yet in Water Fountains, and great numbers are being 
 sold. E. W. Webster, Esq., the Prize Poultry Yards, Heathside, Maidenhead, 
 writes, January 26th, 1889 : — 
 
 Tour " Westueria " Water Fountain is an admirable idea. I have never met vrith one so 
 easily cleaned. ^ 
 
 Write for Prices and Particulars to— " WESTMERIA," KENDAL. 
 
COOK'S poTTiiTEY BRBBDER AND PBEDBB. — Advertisements. 
 
 NO POULTRY HOUSE IS COUPLETB fflTHOUT 
 
 J EYES' FLUID Kills Pleas, Bed lice, and Vermin of every kind in Poultry. 
 In 6d. and Is- Bottles. Samples, Price Lists and Fnll Particnlars. 
 
 JEYES' SANITARY COMPOUNDS CO. LTD., 
 
 Agent :-Mr. W. COOK, "THE AWALDBITS." ST. MAHT CBAY. 
 
cook's poultby bbeedeb and fbbdeb. — AdvertUementt. 
 
 TBE MOST SUCCESSFUL RURAL JOURNAL EVER PUBLISHED 
 
 \yide Pros. 
 
 ^armfield&fireside 
 
 Farm, Dairy, Live Stock, Stable, Poultry, Garden, Home. 
 
 A JOURNAL FOR EVERYBODY. 
 
 POULTRY 
 
 This department is conducted by W. COOK, 
 and baa attained a widespread celebrity tor 
 the simple and practical manner in which 
 Poultry- keeping, from a profitable point of 
 view, is treated. 
 
 THE GARDEN 
 
 This important subject has been entrusted 
 to a thoroughly competent practical man, 
 who has also attained marked success as a 
 writer upon horticultural subjects. Those 
 alike who utilise the Garden for p'easnre or 
 for profit will find the columns of " Pakm, 
 
 
 all their requirements. 
 
 THE HOME 
 
 The Fireside Department is conducted by 
 one of the most able lady writers of estab- 
 liBhed reputation, and who is a recognised 
 authority on all matters pertaining to the 
 house. Articles appear weekly on "Our 
 Recipe Book," " NoTeltics," "Passing Fa- 
 shions," "Domestic Medicine," "HonsehoM 
 Hints," Jic, illustrated by well-known artists, 
 and engraTed in the highest style of art. 
 
 QUERIES AND ANSWERS. 
 
 Especial attention is called to this feature of the paper, as the columns of every depart- 
 ment of " FARM, FIELD, AND FIRESIDE " are freely open to all, and offer a means of 
 exchanging opinions and obtaining information such as can be met with in no other way. 
 
 N,B,— " FARM, FIELD AND FIRESIDE " is the only paper offer- 
 ing 24 pages of well-printed useful information in a handy, compa(5l 
 form, Illustrated, stitched and cut, for the sum of 
 
 ONE PENNY. 
 
 iSpecimen Copies can be obtained team. Newsagents, Booksellers, and 
 Bookstalls, or direct from the Fublishiog OfSce, 
 
 1, ESSEX STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 
 
COOK'H POULTRY BKBBDBR AND wnBDBB.—Advertuements. 
 
 AWARD OF A GOLD MEDAL to HEARSON'S CHAMPION 
 INCUBA TOR at the Hague Exhibition , 1888. 
 
 In a trial carried on by the Judges under test con. 
 ditions, Hearson's Champion Incubator hatched 
 95 CHICKS OUT OF 100 EGGS. 
 
 CHICKENS ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 
 
 All the Best Frizes and Silver Medals have been awarded to 
 HEARSON'S PATENT 
 
 CHAMPION INCUBATOR 
 
 The moat complete and mUy Thermostatic Ineuiator in the World. 
 
 The CHAMPION has 
 now superseded all 
 others. Since its in- 
 troduction no other 
 Incubator maker in 
 the world has been 
 awarded a First Prize 
 at any show at which 
 this apparatus has been 
 concurrently exhibited. 
 It is the only Incu- 
 bator in the world sold 
 with a guarantee not 
 to vary 5 dcg. for 12 
 months together, with- 
 out readjustment, and 
 in no other Incubator 
 is the ventilation and 
 damping so scientifi- 
 cally and practicaJly 
 carried out. Illustrated 
 Fiice List one stamp. 
 
 Address : F DEFABTUENT, 
 
 CHAS. HEABSOM & CO. (Ltd.), 235, BEGEMT STREET, LONDON, I. 
 
 We supply Incubators to the whole wrorld. AU^vho have used them say, '^They 
 are without a rival." " Beware of worthless imitations." Try our" EUREKA'' 
 POULTRY MEAL, les. cwt. 
 
cook's poultey beeedee and feeder. — Advertisements. 
 
 THOMAS'S POULTRY FENCING. 
 
 :?:• {±:>:-:>:f! :!&;••; ;:;:•:•: & «!»:?i. {Oris 
 
 
 Made in Svrdles 6 feet long. 
 Galvanised Wire, Netting . 
 
 on strong Irou-JE'rames. 
 
 PRICES PER YARD. 
 
 6 feet High" ~2s7~3ar 
 
 7. feet High ... 7.. 3s. ^ftd^ 
 Gates (with stay), eacHYsf ~6tl,-' 
 
 XSTe-w- Xaisla-t: Pcaul-tr-sr XXTi.x-c3.lesi. 
 
 TO FORM TEMPORARY PEWS. &o. 
 
 
 The Cheapest Aiticle made. 
 Size 4:-ft. wide, 3-ft. Mgh. 
 
 SSSISSjI 'S-ta. ij-ta. l-in. mesh. 
 ^•^Sj^ftS? ^ I IB- 63- lB.9ct. 28. each. 
 
 galTauised 
 l^came & Net-1 
 ting galvaniaed. J 
 
 2s. 2s. 2d. 2s. 6d. each. 
 
 Pieces for coTeringthe.top. 4ft. bylft.,2-m. 
 
 mesh, price 2s. each; it frame and netting 
 
 galvanised, 2s. 6d. each. 
 Doors, S6 in. by 24 in., fitted to panels, Is. 
 
 each. 
 
 m 
 
 li 
 
 ^ OS 
 
 OBEATLT BEDUCBD PRIOES Per BoU of 90 Yards. 
 For Cash with Order only. 
 
 aft. wide. Sft. wide. 4ft. wide. 6ft. wide. 
 Mesh, B. d. s. d. s. d. B. d, 
 3-in. 30 46 69 90 
 24n. 48 65 86 12 9 
 ]^in. 6 9 12 18 
 l-in. 8 12 16 24 
 
 Reduced Prices for Casli with Order only. 
 
 Fouon /|»RB STEEL BARB WIRE,^ 
 
 100 yajrdfl Beels 6 
 
 266 ■ „ ' ■■'•''...• J 6wt. 12 6 
 6S0 „ ... 1 cwt. 23 
 
 Special Quotations for large 
 Quantities. 
 
 
 
 IP 
 
 J. J. THOMAS & CO., 
 
 87, QUEEN VICTORIA ST.. E.G. : 362,EDGWARE RD., LONDON