tEEmfmak Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924015505328 A Y7fiQ Cornel1 Universi, y Library A contribution towards the better knowle 3 1924 015 505 328 CENTRAL ASIA. PART IV. A CONTRIBUTION TOWARDS THE BETTER KNOWLEDGE OF THE TOPOGRAPHY, ETHNOLOGY, RESOURCES, & HISTORY OF PERSIA. COMPILED (FOE POLITICAL AND MILITARY REFERENCE) BY LIEUTENANT-COLONEL C. M. MacGREGOR, ASSISTANT QtfABTER-MASTER-GENEBAIi. CALCUTTA : OFFICE OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF GOVERNMENT PRINTING. 1871. 1a/' PREFACE. This work does not pretend to be a complete account of Persia, but a compilation from information contained in tbe records to which, the compiler has had access. It is hoped that it will be much improved and added to here- after as more information becomes available. Simla, 1st September 187 C. M. MacGREGOR, Lieut.-Col., Asst. Quarter-Master- General. LIST OF AUTHORITIES. Abbott. Journey from Shiraz to Tessa, by Keith — . Notes of journey in Persia in 1849, by Keith- Bridges. Account of Mission to Persia in 1807-11, by Sir H. Jones— Bracks. Memoir descriptive of the Navigation of the Persian Gulf, by Captain — Clerk. Notes on Persia and Khorasan, by Captain Claude — Colville. Note on the Geology and Botany of the Coast between Bandar Abbas and Jask, by Dr.W.H.— . Note on the Geology of -the Country between Shiraz and Biishahr, by Dr. W. H. — ■. Notes on the Island of Kishm, by Dr. W. H. — . Notes on a trip round the head of the Persian Gulf in 1863, by Dr. W. H.— Correspondence. Persia and Afghanistan-^- — On the progress of Persia on Makran and Western Bilochistan, 1863. — Eegarding progress of Persia on Makran, 1869. Relating to Persia, 1857. Perrier's Caravan Journeys. Fontanier. A Mission to India and Persian Gulf, by V. — Powler. Three years in Persia. Praser. A Tartar Journey from Constantinople to Tehran and Travels in Persia, by J. B. — . Travels in the Caspian Provinces of Persia. Frederick. Journey from Ispahan to Kirmanshah. Gibbon. Routes on Kirman, Jabl, and Khorasan, by Serjeant R. — Goldsmid. Notes on Mussendom. Route from Kirman to Chobar, by Lt.-Col. F. T. — Grant. Route from Biishahr to Basrah and thence to Shiraz. Grubb, I. N. Report on the Island of Kenn, by Lt. J. H. — Holland. Notes on Persia, by Colonel. — Holmes. Sketches on the Shore of the Caspian. Itinerary from Yezd to Herat. Itineraries from the various ports on the Persian Gulf to Shiraz. Jones. Memorandum on the invasion of Persia, by Commander F. — . Memoir on the Province of Baghdad. Johnston. Remarks on the country between Jask and Suraf, byW. P. — Kinnier. Geographical memorandum on the Persian Empire. Layard. Description of Khiizistan. Le Bran. Travels into Muscowy and Persia. MacAlister. Letter on the climate of Bushahr, by Dr. J.— . List of the resources on Biishahr, by Dr. J. — MacDonald. Letter on the invasion cf India, by Envoy J. — Malcolm. History of Persia, by Sir J. — . Letter on the Persian Army, by Sir J. — . Letter on the present (1810) condition of Persia, by Dr. J.— . Memoir of the Kajar family, by Dr. J. — -. Note on the Persian Army, by Sir J. — — . Report on the Trade of the Persian Gulf. . ■--. Sketches of Persia. Memorandum on the Southern and Eastern Frontier of Persia. Mignon. Journal of a tour through Georgia, Persia and Mesopotamia, by Captain R.— Monteith. Description of Tribes and States on the frontier of Persia and Russia, bv Colonel W.— J . Latitude and longitude of places in Azarbijan, by Colonel W.— . . Note on the Revenues of Azarbijan, by Colonel W.— . Report on the boundary between Persia and Russia, by Colonel W.— . Routes from Bushahr to Shiraz. Morier. Account of the Illiyats of Persia. — A journey through Persia, Armenia and Asia Minor in 1808-9. A second journey through Persia, Armenia, and Asia Minor in 1810-16. VI Notes on the Persian Army from the Times of India. Ouseley's Travels in Persia. Pasley. Statement of the fixed Revenues of Persia. Passmore. Eeport on the Infantry of Irak, by Colonel W. — Pelly. A brief account of the Province of Pars. Journey from Persia to India. Letters on Bokhara. Herat affairs. the importance of Bandar Abbas by Colonel Lewis — Memorandum on Bashahr and its Districts. Note on the coast between Bandar Abbas and Cape Jask. — ■ — . Note on the country between Bushahr and Shlraz, by Colonel Lewis — . Notes on Lingah, Kishm and Bandar Abbas, by Colonel Lewis — . Report on the Giaakan Range. . Route from Bandar Abbas to Jask. , Rawlinson. Journey from Tabrez to Ghilan, by Major H. C. — -. Notes on the Ancient Geography of Mohamra, by Major H. C. — — — — -. Notes on March from Zohab to Kirmanshah in 1839, by Major H. C. — -. Report on the co-operation of.an Anglo-Indian Army in a Russian War. i Report on the Persian Expedition to Khcizistan, by Major H. C. — Remon. Report on Bassadore by Captain T. — Robertson on the Climate of Karak. Route between Bushahr and Shiraz. from Hindian to Kala Sadat. between Kirmanshah and Baghdad. — - from Sabwar to Nishapur. ■ between Shlraz and Ispahan. Shiel. Life and Manners in Persia. Smith. Route from Tehran to Bandar Abbas, by Major R. M. — Snodgrass. Route from Bushahr to Shlraz, by Lieutenant — Stewart. Note on the Revenue of Persia, by Captain J. — Stuart. Residence in Persia. Taylor. Brief Notes on the Persian Gulf, by Captain R. — Thompson. Ascent of Mount Damavand, by W. P. — Todd. Itinerary from Tabrez to Tehran in 1837, by Major D'Arcy — . Memoir on Mazandaran, by Major — Wagner. Travels in Persia, Georgia and Kurdistan. Warner. Report on the Bay of Shewn., by H. W. — Wheeler. Memorandum on Persian Affairs, by Talboys — Whitelock. Description of the Islands of the Persian Gulf, by Lieutenant — . Remarks on the Hindian River, by Lieutenant P. — Wylie. Memorandum on the Persian Affairs, by J. — Wynne. Memorandum on Persian Affairs, by H. LeP. — A. ABA D— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the province of Fars, Persia, about 28 miles from Bnshahr. It has 150 houses, inhabited by a tribe called Abadehi with an annual revenue of 350 tomams. (Petty.) ABADAN— Lat. Long. Blev. An island in Khuzistan, Persia, formed by the Hafar canal joining the Shatt-ul-Arab and 'the Bahr-es-Mashir rivers, and bounded north by the former, west and east by the latter respectively, and south by the Persian Gulf. Its shape is triangular, two sides having a length of about 30 miles, and the third or base of not more thau 10 miles. There are many villages on the island, and it is covered with date trees and swamps filled with high reeds and rank vegetation of all sorts. There was formerly a village on it of this name, but now it is a mass of ruins. Kinneir distinctly states that the Bahr-es-Mashir is the outlet of the Karun river, but Sir Henry Rawlinson exposes this error, and says it is the east arm of the delta of the Shatt-iil-Ar5b. From this error the whole island of Abadan was surrendered to Persia by treaty. During the Persian campaign of 1856, the Persians erected five batteries on the north side of the island, some of which were intended to prevent the British passing up the Shatt-ul-Arab or Bahr-es-Mashir to Mohamra. (Chesney — Rawlinson- — Kinneir — Holland.) ABADEH— Lat. Long. - Elev. A walled town in Fars, Persia, 122 miles south-south-east of Ispahan, and 116 miles north of Shiraz. Morier says the first appearance of Abadeh announces a large place, but on a nearer inspection the town exhibits only a great extent of ruined walls without inhabitants. The present population is enclosed within a square fort defended by a turret at each angle and three in the intervening sides. The town is surrounded by many gardens from which much good fruit is sent to Shiraz. There are also many other gardens in the vicinity, and the soil is generally fertile, but it is not well irrigated. Provisions are abundant here, and the water is good and is procured from f kanats. J (Morier — Ouseley — Petty — Taylor — Gibbons.) ABADEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Sirjan, Persia, 42 miles west from Kum, on the road from Kirman to Shiraz. (Abbott.) ABIDIEH SUBNIERI— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Fars, Persia, situate north of Shiraz. It produces wheat, barley, and raisins, and possesses some gardens, and is celebrated for the manufacture of wooden spoons, and as having been the hunting place and summer residence of Baeram-i-Gor. (Petty.) ABIDIEH TASHTAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, situate north-east of Shiraz. It produces wheats barley, and almonds, and has some gardens. (Petty.) 1 A ABA— ABB A BANDANAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, which rises in the hills of the Lur tribe of Sagwand, and falls into the Dawarij in the lower part of the small plain of Patak. (Layard.) ABAREK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, on the both banks of the Rud Khaneh Palo, Teh Rud river, district of Bam, and 16 miles north-west of that place, 130 miles south-east from Kirman. It has about 25 miserable huts situated near a mound crowned by the mud walls of a fort, on the skirts of a vast plain, stretching south-west to north-east. There are some hot springs, less than 2 miles from Abarek in a direction north-east by north enclosed within a building ; the water is clean and nearly tasteless, but leaves a lime deposit, and with a temperature of 96°. (K. Abbott.) ABBAS-ABID— Lat. north 36° 23'; east Long. 56° 22'; Elev. A village in Khorasan Pass of Persia, 385 miles north-east of Ispahan, 170 miles west of Mashad, on the high road from that place to Tehran. It is situated in a wretchedly desolate country on the edge of a salt desert, and about 1^ hour's journey from some hills which lie between it and village of Miandasht, but an attempt is made to raise any sort of vegetable here, all supplies for the inhabitants and travellers being brought from Sabzvar, 80 miles, and Mazlnan, 22 miles. It contains about 50 houses, and a high mud fort with a good spring of water inside. The village and caravanserai were erected by Shah Abbas for the benefit of caravans crossing the desert; he carried off 12 Georgian families and settled them here under the severest penalties if they attempted to desert the place, and their descendants continue to inhabit the village to this day, and have still a marked Georgian cast of countenance. The whole of the desert in the vicinity of this village is infested by Turkmans, and the inhabitants are often forced to traverse the desert in order to procure provisions for their own consumption and for sale to the caravans, and. thus fall a prey to these kidnappers ; nevertheless these people appear far more clean and comfortable both in their houses and dress than the generality of Persian peasants ; this may be accounted for by their paying no taxes and by the profit they make by selling provisions to travellers. The Turkmans have often attempted, but never succeeded, in the capture of the little fort. (Gibbons — Clerk — Eastwick — Felly.) ABBA.SABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, situated about 200 yards from the south coast of the Caspian, about 95 miles east from Resht. It is a very insignificant place, consisting of 50 or 60 wretched little mud hovels, but is pleasantly situated on a fine open space covered with green sward. The scenery towards the mountains is remarkably pretty, and the country around is open. It is surrounded with rice-fields, which makes its neigh- bourhood almost impracticable for the movements of animals. (Holmes ) ABBASABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Sirjan, Kirman, Persia, about 230 miles east of Shiraz and 21 miles north of Kum. (K. Abbott.) ABBASABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan Pass, Persia, on the left bank of the DizM river near Dizful. It is inhabited by the Bakhtiarl tribe, and is celebrated for its gardens and the rich arable land in its vicinity. (Layard.J 2 ABD— ABH ABD KHOR—Lat. 29° 53' 88". Long. 50° 14' 10". Elev. A small creek on the south coast of the Persian Gulf between Bandar Dilam and Ka Haldar. It has a depth of 1£ fathoms. (Bmcks.) ABDUL A BAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan. Persia, on the high road from Tehran to Mashad, and 120 miles east of the first, and 12 miles west of Lasgird, 38 miles from Semnun. It is situated in the open, barren, stony plain, and has a small mud fort. (Holmes.) ABDULABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 67 miles south-east from Mashad. It is situated in the midst of an open plain, and has gardens, cultivation, and good water. (Clerk.) ABDULABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Save" district, Persia, 65 miles south-west of Tehran, and 1 mile east of the town of Save*. (R. Abbott.) ABDULA GAO— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, on the road from Sabzawar to Mashad. It is inhabited by Amarll Kurds, and is situated in a beautifully fertile and well wooded valley. The inhabitants have large herds of cattle, horses, and a great number of sheep. (Fraser.) ABDUL MALIKIS. A tribe of Persia, an offshoot from the Lak tribe (which see). They reside partly near Shiraz and partly in Mazandaran. Regarding the latter, Fraser has the following information. They are said to number 3,000 to 4,000 families, and to live chiefly round Sarmi Kala. They are known and professed thieves living on the plunder of passengers or small caravans. They seldom murder but only strip people, and they never attack a strong party. They now inhabit villages, but are constantly moving about from one to the other. They keep cattle, but also are employed in cultivation. They are liable to furnish about 500 mounted for the Shah's service in lieu of being subject to taxation. (Fraser* — Holmes — Morier.) ABDUI— Lat. Long. Elev. 4,200. A valley in Fars, Persia, 13 miles east of Kazirun. It is a well wooded, pleasant spot, surrounded by barren mountains, and lies between the Kotal- i-Dukhtaran and the Kotal Pir-zan, on the high road from Bushahr to Shiraz. The valley is thickly wooded with oaks of the narrow-leaved species. (Morier — Monteith — Ouseley — St. John) AB GARMAYEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A valley in Khuzistan, Persia, situate to the north of Masjid-i-Suliman. (Layard.) ABHER— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in Azarbijan, Persia, 220 miles on the main road from Tabrez to Kasvin, 32 miles from the latter, and 32 miles from Sultanieh. It is situated near a winding river of the same name in the midst of numer- ous gardens, handsome trees, and much cultivation. The green dome of a mosque on which storks have built their nests, surrounded by trees and backed by purple mountains, embellishes the village of Abher. In the winter this valley becomes a perfect bog from the overflow of the numerous water-courses, which are all stopped up and distracted with ice. Close to this village is the castle of Kala-i-Darab (which see). This place was 3 AB-I formerly of some importance, and is said to have been surrounded with a rampart. (Ouseley — Morier — Stuart.) AB-I-ALISHTAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, so called from the plain of Alishtar, which is a level flat of great extent, bounded east by a noble chain of mountains named Chehl Na Balighan (40 infants), which divides it from the territories of Nihavand and Burujard, and west by another very lofty range called Sar- kushti, where the Lurs suppose the ark of Noah to have rested after the flood. The skirts of Chehl Na Balighan are covered with villages, and around them is much cultivation. The great body of the plain, however, is pasture ground, and Ilyat encampments are scattered over its whole surface. It extends for_ a distance of about 18 miles. (Rawlinson.) IB-I-BALARTJD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river in Khuzistan, Persia, which rises in the hills of Mangarah and Shahzada Ahmad, and after a course of about 40 miles flows into the river of Dizful, a short distance below that town. In the dry season it is a mere rivulet, containing scarcely a foot's depth of water, but when there is any heavy rain in the hills, it comes down in a torrent of tremendous force. On one occasion when the Shah of Persia was crossing it with an army, 50 horsemen are said to have been swept away, and the force was delayed on its banks for two days. The bed of this river is covered with pebbles filled with little fossil shells called Sang-i-Biring (fire-stone) from their resemblance to grains of rice. These are much in request by Persians for the head of their pipes, which is scarcely ever composed of anything else but this stone set in silver. There was formerly a brick bridge over this river on the road from Khuzistan to Kirrnanshah, but it is now destroyed. [Rawlinson.) AB-I-BORS— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Persia rising in the Bakhtiari mountains in the Province of Luris- tan, and formed from the junction of the Kersan and Abigarm rivers south of Felat and falling into the Karun, a few miles above Susan. At its junction it is almost equal in size to the Karun, being a broad rapid stream forcing its way through a succession of precipitous ravines, and being only fordable in one or two places with much difficulty during the autumn. It is crossed on the road between Kumishah and Kala Tul in the valley of Bors. Artillery and heavy baggage must be taken across on rafts. (Jjayard.) AB-I-DERA— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Ardelsn, Persia, which joins the Holwan river at a place called Mula YakQb, about midway between Kasr-i-Sharln and Sar-i-pul. In general it is a mere brawling rivulet, but when swollen by rain becomes a furious rapid torrent. Rawlinson was detained for two days on its banks on one occasion. Even the bridges of woven boughs which are thrown across in several places from bank to bank to afford a passage in case the fords should be impracti- cable are swept away at times. At the point of its junction with the Holwan, it is said to be spanned by a natural arch of rock which is called in conse- quence Pul-i-Khuda (God's bridge). In the narrow valley which opens into the plain of Dera are the winter pasture grounds of the Kirmanshah Stud. This spot has been selected as well on account of its excellent herbage as for the security of its position, shut in between the hills on one side and the river on the other, and the horses reared in it are celebrated 4> AB-I through Persia. The plain is about four miles in length and two miles in breadth. It was formerly included in the pashalik of Zohab, but after the conquest of that district by the Persians, it was purchased by the Kalhur chiefs from its Turkish owners. There are 150 resident families of Kalhurs at Dera, and it also affords winter quarters for 400 more who are nomadic. (Rawlinson.) AB-I-GARGAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A canal which issues from the river Karun in province Khuzistan, Persia, immediately above the town of Shustar. At the point of its separation from the main body of the river, a large and massive dam has been thrown across its entrance. This dam in the autumn and summer is perfectly dry and may be traversed on foot, six narrow openings being left for the passage of the water. It is constructed of massive blocks of hewn stone firmly and closely united. It was repaired by Mahamad All Mirza, and has since retained the name of Band-i-Shahzada (Prince's dam), having been formerly called Band-i-Kaisar (Csesar's dam). Beyond this dyke the canal flows between very lofty cliffs of sandstone. The rock has been cut through, and although the sandstone is easily excavated and does not offer much resist- ance, yet this is a very gigantic work. Half a mile beyond this dam is a second, built almost to a level with the cliffs on both sides. It forms a complete barrier to the water, which, escaping through numerous passages cut laterally through the rocks, falls on cataracts into the bed beneath. The level of the canal's bed below this dam is considerably lower than above it. A bridge or communication is thus formed between Shustar and the village of Boleiti on the opposite side of the Ab-i-Gargar. The massive structure of this dam renders its destruction by the inhabitants in case of the approach of an enemy almost impossible, even if some weeks were devoted to the attempt. Beyond this which is called the Pul Boliti, the canal flows with a broad and deep stream between steeps and lofty banks, till its junc- tion with the Karun at the Band-i-Kir,, about 30 miles below Shustar. About five miles below Shustar the canal is nearly traversed by a dam called Mahibazan, which partly natural and partly artificial prevents the ascent of vessels to the town. The cliffs to the right and left of the Ab-i-Gargar are of equal height. This canal is well adapted for steam navigation, its banks are well wooded, its current sluggish, until, as it approaches the hills, the current gradually increases, until at about two miles from Shustar it runs at a rate of about five miles an hour ; its depth is from 12 to 18 feet in the lowest season, and cannot vary much throughout the year, and its breadth from 60 to 120 yards. This capability of navigation for steamers extends from Band-i-Kir to the village of Khasamabad, where boats to and from Shustar load or unload; though Lieutenant Selby ran a steamer to within one mile of the town, where the passage was finally closed by a natural ledge of rocks reaching right across the river with only a small opening about 10 yards wide through which, however, boats of 20 tons can and do pass into the very heart of the town, to which therefore troops or goods from England could be transported. Good wood for steaming purposes is plentiful along the banks and on the small islands in the centre of the stream, but as the distance between Band-i-Kir and Shustar is so short (only about eight hours), no intermediate wooding station would be necessary. This canal has been mistaken for the main stream of the Karun on account of its greater width and depth, but AB-I Layard remarks with reference to this mistake — " It is difficult to conceive how any person who had examined the entrance of this branch could suppose it to be the natural bed of the stream." This canal is navigable at all seasons for vessels drawing six feet of water. (Layard.) AB-I-GARIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, which joined with the Kersan river forms to the south of Falat the Ib-i-Bors. {Layard) AB-I-GARM— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting place in the Nurmashir division of the Province of Kirman Persia, 2Z8 miles south-east Kirman, on the road by Bampur to Chobar in Makran. There is no village "or house of any kind here and but few traces of inhabit- ants. Drinking water is procurable from hot springs, which are not tepid but actually warm, almost hot, and the water of which when cooled is sweet and drinkable. {Goldsmidt.) AB-I-GARM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in district of Mazandaran, Persia, on the border between that province and Ghllan, and a short distance south of the shore of the Cas- pian. It is known on account of three hot springs, one abundant, two less copious ; the former the hottest of the three ; the water is clear and colorless, and is used by the natives for bathing. The hills just beyond the village come quite close down to the sea. {Fraser — Holmes.) AB-I-KASHGHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Luristan, Persia, which rises in the BakhtTaii mountains, and flows south-west for over 100 miles to its junction with the Kerkhah. It is a deep and impetuous stream and apparently not fordable. It is crossed 7 miles from the village of Rabat at a point where it divides into a number of narrow branches by Iliyat bridges of woven boughs. Higher up on the direct road from Khoramabad to Kirmanshah, it is crossed by the Pul-I-Taskan, a magnificent Sassasian bridge now in ruins. (Rawlinson.) AB-I-LARDAGAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, rising in the Bakhtlari mountains in the province of Luristan in Janiki Sardisar, near the village from which it derives its name. It is fordable in many places, but is generally narrow and deep with well-wooded banks. With the Ab-i-Bors, it forms the Kariin a few miles above Susan. {Layard.) AB-I-RAMOZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A large stream in Khuzistan, Persia, formed by the junction of the waters of the Abiala and Abi Zard (elsewhere described), and which joins the Jarahi on the plain of Ram Hormaz near the village of Kala Shekh. Ramoz is an abbreviation of Ram Hormaz. {Lai/ard.) AB-I-SARD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Persia, 40 miles north of Tehran, near Demavand. It is si- tuate at the opening of a beautiful little green valley. {Stuart.) AB-I-SHIRIN— Lat. Long. Elev. '' Vide Hindian. AB-I-SHIRIN— (Sweet water). A small village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 24 miles north-north-west of Kashan. Notwithstanding its name, the water here is extremely brackish. {Gibbons.) 6 AB-I AB-I-SHIRWAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Kirmanshah, Persia, which rises on the north side of the Koh-i- Sangar, about 40 miles east of Hamadan, nearly as many north-east of Kirmanshah and at nearly two degrees east of Sulimania. Its direction is west inclining to north for about 40 miles, then north-west for about 40 more, that is as far as the ruins, and it receives in this part of its course numerous petty streams from the mountains of Shahi and Avroman. About 10 miles beyond Darnah in the same direction, it takes a west course of 20 miles through the mountains to Gundar, where it receives the river of Ab-i-Zemkan which rises near Gahwarah in the Guran country at about 70 miles distance towards south-east. Immediately after this increase the Ab-i-Shirwan forces its way through a narrow gorge (without even suffi- cient space for a footpath along its bank) into the plain of Semoran, where it is joined by a considerable affluent formed by the waters of the Taj rud and Salm. It now takes a south-west direction still preserving the same name. Below the junction of the Sulimania river it receives from the Zagros, on the east side, two considerable streams, the first at 35 miles from that junction, and the second at 25 miles further on. The Ab-i-Shirwan now runs nearly south for about 30 miles when it receives the Holwan near Khanikin, whence the united waters take the name of Diala (which see). On the road between Sulimania and Kirmanshah there is a ford at Banah Kalan, which is practicable in summer, but in the winter it is wholly impassable. There was formerly a substantial brick bridge over the river at this point. It is not navigable at any part of its course, but timber is frequently floated down to the Tigris from the mountains of Kurdistan. From near the town of Gundar to the plain of Shirwaneh, this river forms the boundary between Persia and Turkey. (Rawlinson — Jones.) AB-I-SHOR— Lat. Long. Elev. A large stream in KhuzistSn, Persia, which enters the Karun above Lob. It is nearly always fordable unless when swollen by rain, when it becomes a most impetuous and dangerous torrent. The water of this stream has- a decidedly brackish taste. It is also called the Darav and Murdafil. (Layard.) AB-I-SHOR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river in Persia, which rises in the mountains of the Mamaseni tribe, and joined with the Ab-i-Shirin forms the Hindian River. AB-I-SHOR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Pars, Persia, which rises in the snowy mountains of Ardekan to the east and north-east of Kala Sufed, and passes through the whole length of the valley of Shab-bevan winding from east to west. It then forces its way through the hills to the west of Fahliyan, and having joined the river of Baeram crosses the wild tracts called Mohar and discharges its waters into the Persian Gulf at Bandar Reg. It is not fordable everywhere, and the ruins of a bridge over it are still to be seen near Kala Slah. Its water is brackish. (DeBode.) AB-I- VALERUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Irak Ajami, Persia, which rises in the south slopes of Mount Demavand. The valley of this river is a favorite cold weather resort of the tribes, and its waters are beautifully clear and contain many fine trout. Fraser gives no clue as to where this river goes. (Fraser.) 7 AB-I— ABR AB-I-ZIL— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Luristan, Persia, which rises high up in the fastnesses of Kala Asped and Anarahrud, and after a course of perhaps 50 miles falls into the Kerkhah, 3 miles below the point where it is crossed on the road to Dizful. It is an impetuous mountain torrent, and is filled with immense masses of roek brought down by the strength of the current from the neighbouring mountains ; and the force of the water is at the same time so excessive that accidents frequently occur in crossing. The water is salt from the bed of gypsum which it traverses ; it is however of the most pellucid clearness whence its name from the Arabic, Zalal (pure) . A bridge by which Timur crossed still exists, but the pathway along its banks to it is said to be impassable for artillery. There is a very difficult and dangerous ford about 1£ mile below the bridge, about 3^ miles from the ruined fort of Kala-i-Reza. This river has been confounded by geographers with the river of Dizful, but Rawlinson points out that they are totally different streams, and more- over that the Ab-i-Zal is not now, nor ever was, called the Ab-i-Dizful. {Rawlinson.) AB-I-ZARD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, which rises in the mountains of Mangasht near the village of Malagai. Passing through a difficult gorge, it traverses Abul-Abbas and enters the small plain of Bagh-i-Malik, and is here joined by a small stream which rises near Kala Tul. Leaving this plain it forces its way through the precipitous range of limestone and gypsum hills, and joins the Ab-i-Ala on the plain of Ram Hormaz near the village of Manjanik. Its water is of the most exquisite transparency, and is celebrated for its purity throughout the country; near the point of its. junction with the Ab-i-Ala are several bitumen springs. This river varies much in volume, in April it is a rapid torrent between 2 and 3 feet deep, and about 40 yards in breadth ; in the month of May it is said to be often impassable, but towards autumn it becomes again much diminished. (Layard.) AB-KtJZAT— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of- Khuzistan, Persia, crossed by the road from Badrae to Mandali. _ It is salt and is said to fall into the river of Mandali. (Layard.) ABLAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bakhtiari mountains, Luristan, Persia, on the left bank of the Halegun river, and about 4 miles north-north-west of Kala Tul. A BNEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village in Fars, Persia, situate west of Shiraz. It produces grapes and is celebrated for its syrups. Wheat and barley are also cultivated here but in very small quantities. (Petty.) ABREH — Lat. . Long. Elev. A district in Fars, Persia, situate in the hills north of Shirgz. It has two divisions, one called Dashtak containing many gardens and springs of water and a fort which is considered tho coolest spot in Fars. The other division is called Shahrek, and consists of 2 or 3 villages producing only wheat and barley. (Petty.) ABRENDABAD— Lat. "Long. Elev. A village in province of Yezd, Persia, 17 miles west-north-west Yezd. It has a small square fort enclosed by a double wall. {Imperial Gazetteer.) A BR— AFS ABRKOH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, situate about 130 miles from Shiraz on the road to Mashad. It is a large place and has a fort. Supplies are plentiful, and there are some villages situated round it. This village is celebrated as having been the place of assembly of the adherents of Lutf All Khan Zand before the last attack of that chief on Shiraz in 1793. {Petty — Malcolm.) AB-SHAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Persia on the south and almost adjoining the town of Yezd. (K. Abbott.) ABTURSAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, crossed by the road from Badrae to Mandali. It is said to fall into the river of Mandali. (Layard.) ABU-BESHA— Lat. Long. Elev. An old tomb on the river of Dizful in Khuzistan, Persia, 5 miles above which is the highest point attained on that river by Lieutenant Selby in the steamer Euphrates. That officer, however, was of opinion that with a more powerful vessel, this river could be navigated higher. [Selby — Layard.) ABUL-ABBAS— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in Luristan, Persia, on the bank of the Ab-i-Zard at the point where it descends from the mountains by a tremendous gorge into the plain of Bagh-i-Malik ; at this place are the ruins of a town of some extent. These remains consist chiefly of roughly hewn stones united by cement. (Layard.) ABU-SHAHR— See Bushahr. ADAMITES— A religious sect in Persia, who are described as meeting, both men and women, in a cave by night, and the lights being extinguished promiscuous and often incestuous intercourse follow. In these extraordinary rites may be recognized those which accompanied the worship of Mylitta of the Assyrians, the Alitta of the Arabs, and the Mitra of the Persians. (Chesney.) ADHAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Persia which rises in the mountains north of Tabrez, and after a lengthened course falls into the Karasu a few miles above the junction of the latter with the Aras river. (Chesney.) ADHUMIAN— A sect of Sufis in Persia who take their name from Sultan Ibrahim Adhum, who resigned the royal dignity to become a mendicant. They are always travelling and are companionless. This sect continually move their lips in devotion. (Malcolm.) AFRA KOT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia. It is a large straggling place beautifully situated at the foot of the hills between Sari and Mashad-i-Sar. (Holmes.) AFSHARS— A tribe of Persia who are spread over Kirman, Fars, Luristan, and Khuzistan, and round the lake of Uriimia. I have seen no good account of them. They are said to be of Turkish origin and to speak a dia- lect of that language. Morier says their two principal branches are 9 B AFS— AGH Shamhi and Karklu, and they number 20,000 families. They principally reside in towns and are to be found in great numbers at Abiverd, the birth place of Nadar Shah, who was of the Karklu branch of this tribe, and at Kalat, the place so carefully peopled and strengthened by that conqueror. The Afshars are looked on with great suspicion by the present dynasty of Persia. They were one of the seven Turkish tribes to whom Shah Ismail owed much of his success, and to whom in consequence he gave the name of Kazl Bash. Layard says the tribe of Gunduzlu. of Khuzistan is a branch of the Afshar tribe. They were found here by Nadar Shah and compelled by him to return to the north of Persia, but on his death they again went back to their former pastures. Before their deportment by Nadar, the Afshars occupied the greater part of the province of Khuzistan to the foot of the great chain of mountains, and even the country now inhabited by the Chab Arabs, where Dorak was their principal settlement. The Bakhtiaiis were confined to the mountains, and the Afshars were generally sufficiently powerful and united to oppose them with success if they ven- tured into the plain. The Gunduzlu now number 1,500 fighting men, and acknowledge the supremacy of the Bakhtiari chief. The Afshars are also found round lake Urumla and in the district of Sain Kala in the south-east of the province of Azarbijan. In the latter their title was disputed by the Chardaori tribe, with whom they are in consequence in a constant state of feud. Sheil who commanded a regiment of Afshars of Urtamia says they are the wildest and most turbulent lot in Persia, always quarrelling, robbing, and getting drunk. Nevei'theless they had fine physiques, and had the making of very excellent soldiers in them. They have the character in Persia of being officious and loquacious flatterers. Abbott mentions coming across encampments of Afshars at several places on his route from Bam to Shiraz. (Morier — Malcolm — Layard — Shell — Abbott.) AGAJIK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 60 miles north-west of Khol on the road from Tabrez to Arzum. It is a miserable village consisting of huts surrounding an old square mud fort on a hill and inhabited by Armenians. It is 3 miles from the frontier of Turkey. There is a small district so called which consists of a little cluster of mud hovels built almost underground and of the most wretched description. (Morier — Fraser.) AGHDA — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Yezd, Persia, 45 miles west by north of that place, and 75 miles east by south of Ispahan. It is a very ruinous mean-looking place, and has a few date trees around it. It contains about 300 very poor families, but the adjacent ruins proclaim it to have been a place of more import- ance in former times. It lies nearly 2 miles north of the mountains bound- ing the south of the plain. It possesses a few gardef s and fields, but the plain is so ill supplied with water that cultivation cannot be carried on to a greater extent, and the aspect of this little place and its environs is wretched in the extreme. The district of Aghda appears to contain only two other places entitled to the name of village : these are Shamshabad and Syad Mahamad near Aghda on the east, and it has about 12 inhabited 'megrallis' (?) The productions are wheat, barley, cotton, excellent pomegranates, figs, grapes, 10 AGH— AHA peaches, plums, apples, water and musk melons, and cucumbers. Its revenue is 500 tomams. It is much subject to raids from Bakhtiari and Biloch marauders. (K. 'Abbott.) AGHLABER— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ghilan, Persia, on the banks of the Kargan Bud, on the road from Enzell to Ardabll. It consists of a number of houses in detached clusters, which are surrounded by wooded clumps and large cornfields. The hills here approach within a mile of the Caspian Sea, which is bordered by a thick belt of forest. (Fraser.) iGHRI-TAGH. See Mount Ararat. AH — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 20 miles from Larijan, 30 miles from Tehran. It is a flourishing place, the verdure of the surrounding vegetation having given the name of " Tak-i-Zamarud, " or the emerald palace, to a ruined chateau of Fateh Ali Shah close by. This is composed of a gateway with a room above and a house built under the shade of some ancient and spreading plane trees, rising upon four successive terraces. The village is in the jurisdiction of the governor of Demavand. (Morier — Stuart.) AHAK — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Persia, about 1 6 miles from Sabzawar, in Khorasan, on the road to Nishapur. The village is situate in a small plain surrounded by hills. AHAN Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, about 10 miles from Sari, on the road to Farahabad. It is inhabited by Sambeglu and Modanlu Kurds. (Holmes.) AHAR— Lat. Long. Elev. 3,300. A town in Azarbijan, Persia, 52 miles north-east of Tabrez. It is the prin- cipal town of the district of Karadagh, and is situated in a wide vale surrounded by lofty mountains, and is encircled by a decayed mud wall, flanked by numerous round towers. It contains about 700 houses and from 5 to 6,000 inhabitants. It has four mosques, a public bath, a spacious cara- vanserai, and a good bazaar. Its streets are narrow but apparently clean, and some of its houses are plastered with Persian inscriptions bearing the date of their erection. Holmes, who visited it in 1843, states the greater part of the place is in ruins, notwithstanding its being the residence of one of the Persian princes, its governor. The trade of the place is limited to the supply of the town and adjacent villages, and the town is said to yield a revenue of only 1,000 ' tomajns ' per annum. In addition to the cultivation of wheat and barley, the gardens around the town produce apples, pears, plums, cherries, apricots, grapes, and several other fruits. On the south side of the town on an elevated spot is the tomb of Shekh Sab-ul-Din, the teacher of Shekh Safi, the founder of the Safavean family. The mausoleum is of brick with a foundation of stone, and faced by a portico flanked by two pillars encrusted with green tiles. The whole form a decoration to the town and is in good taste. Iron is said to exist in the mountains surround- ing this place. (Holmes — D'Arcy — Todd.) AHAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises in the Kashka Dagh mountains, north of Tabrez, and flows east for 55 miles, then turns north for 15 and flows past Ahar into the Karasu, a tributary of the Aras at Verguhan, 22 11 AHA— AIIR miles east Ahar. It runs nearly east and west, and is extremely narrow. It undergoes a variation in its depth during the year, but this is irregular as there are no periodical rains. -It, however, generally rises in spring from rain and in autumn from the melting of the snows. It flows through a broad fertile valley, extremely well cultivated and with several water mills. In November it is fordable, being about 20 yards broad, but when Mignon crossed, it was 5 feet deep and extremely turbid. {Mignon.) AHL— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Laristan, Persia, 51 miles from Mogii Bay, 75 miles from Lar on the road to Shlraz. There is a small fort here and some date groves. Water is procured from wells. Thence a road leads to the village of Bastek. (Petty.) AHMADABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasgn, Persia, 14 miles north-north-east from Sabzawar on the road to Nishapur, from which it is 80 miles distant. It is situate in a small valley. (Gibbons.) AHMADABID— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Save, Persia, south-west of Tehran. It is situated in a small valley, embosomed in a grove of fruit and other trees. (Keith Abbott.) AHMADBEGLtJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in AzarbTjan, Persia, about 40 miles on road from Ahar to Ardebll, situated on a plain in the Mishkln district. (Morier.) AHMADI — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 19 miles from Bushahr, 10 from Burazjfin on the road to Shlraz. It is surrounded with cornfields and date gardens, and there are several other villages at no great distance from it. AHMADI — Lat. Long. Elev. f k fort and village in Kirman, Persia, about 180 miles south of Kirman in a direct line, and 270 miles east by south of Shlraz. It is a small square mud built fort with three towers on each face, a deep but narrow ditch, a gateway and drawbridge, situated near the south side of a small plain, the soil of which is partly stony and partly light sandy and poor! Water is very scarce, and is raised from deep wells, and being emptied into troughs is conducted into the fields for irrigation. There is little field cultivation, but groves of palm trees are numerous. It is said to contain about 60 families scattered about under huts made of date trees and Roughs. When Abbott visited it in 1849-5.0, it boasted three old iron guns — ^vithout carriages as rts ordndnce. This place is much subject to raids from I Larls with whom the inhabitants are on bad terms. The district attached to the fort extends about 24 miles on all sides of it, and the whole population I ™7- b f a ^ out , ^ 000 fa milies. A great quantity of dates is produced in the Idistrict, also figs, oranges, and other fruits. (Keith Abbott ) AHMADIA— Lat. Long. E lev A plain lying to the west of the city of Tabrez in Azarbljani Persia. It is visible from the citadel and is covered with villages and gardens. (Chemev \ AHR — Lat. Long. Elev A village in the extreme north of Persia, at the source of the Atrak river between Shirwan and Kala Khan. It is very beautifully situated, and has a stream of delicious water. (Eraser.) 12 AHR— AHW AHBAM— Lat. Long. Elev, A village in Fars, Persia, 30 miles east Bushahr on the Firozabad road to ShTraz. It consists of 500 houses inhabited by " Doweroonees/' "Khur- gestanees," and " Dehmegoomees," but is a miserable looking place. Its water is procured from a brackish spring. There is a large date plantation here. A good supply of cattle is procurable, as well as fruit, fuel, rice and coarse felts, it being a mart for the sale of the produce of the wandering tribes in the vicinity. Near it are some hot and sulphurous springs, which are believed to be very efficacious for the cure of all diseases by the Persians. Prom the sulphur which is procured from them some gunpowder is manufac- tured in the village. The springs are so warm that it is with difficulty one can bear one's hand in them. (Petty — Monteiih — Jones — Ballard.) AHUWAN— Lat. Long Elev. A small village in KhorasSn, Persia, 22 miles north-east of Semnun, situated in a small plain on road from Tehran to Mashad. It is nearly destitute of water, rain-water being carefully collected in a reservoir for the use of tra- vellers. There is here a well-built burnt brick serai, 80 yards square; a reservoir of water and a post-house, besides a sort of hollow fortified square for cattle and a few shepherds' huts. The mountains around are of unusually barren aspect, and the county is deserted and sterile. The Turkmans sometimes lie in wait for caravans at a spot some miles to the west of this place. To the east of the caravanserai are the ruins of a square structure built of stones and mortar, with walls in many parts 9 feet thick and 80 yards long each way, and flanked by fine round towers on each side. Eastwick, who visited this place in August, mentions the severe cold ex- perienced, and says that the cold here and on the passes leading to it is often so intense that people are often frozen to death in winter, and caravans are detained for many days together by the snow. {Eastwick — Holmes- — Clerk.) AHWIZ— Lat. 31° 18' 30". Long. 49°. Elev. A small town in Khuzistan, Persia, 48 miles south of Shustar on the left bank of the Karun. It is situated in a flat uncultivated country, and occupies a portion of the site of the old city of Aginis being built with its materials. It has a mean appearance, being a collection of hovels rather than houses. It now contains not more than 6,700 inhabitants, Arabs, subject to the Chab Shekh. Many of the inhabitants are the owners of the small boats which trade between Mohamra and Shustar, or are used for the transport of mer- chandise between these places, as the owners themselves do not trade. The country on the town-side of the Karun is a bare plain with very slight patches of cultivation here and there, and on the south-east side of the town is a range of sandstone hills perfectly bare. The other side of the river is a bare desolate plain without a tree. A few hundred yards above the town is a ridge round which the river passes, rendering it a very strong position. Here is the celebrated ' band 5 of Ahwaz, consisting of four ridges of rock which cross the Karun here. The first immediately above the castle and below a large island in the river has an opening which admits of vessels without any difficulty, and has nine fathoms of water ; the second, which traverses the river below the castle, is the most important of the four ; it has two open- ings through which the river in the dry season rushes with great impetuosity. The chief channel, which is that near the right bank, has about nine fathoms 13 AHW— AJA of water and is of considerable breadth. The second channel, which is nearly in the centre of the river, is considerably smaller, but has about the same depth of soundings. This ridge of rocks has been taken advantage of in constructing the ' band' across the river, the interstices being filled up with massive masonry much of which now remains. The third ridge not tra- versing the river offers no obstacles to the ascent of vessels, and the fourth is of the same description. The river at Ahwaz is between a quarter and half a mile in breadth, and has a continuous channel of above eight feet deep in the driest season of the year. Layard is of opinion that the ' band' which causes the chief obstruction in the river at Ahwaz, might easily be removed to such an extent as to admit of the passage of steamers and to diminish the velocity of the current. The difficulties of passing this ' band' induced Major .Estcourt with the steamer Euphrates to desist from any further attempt to ascend the river higher, but Lieutenant Selby, of the Indian Navy, with the steamer Assyria successfully ascended beyond it without much difficulty. There was once a large and flourishing city here, as the numerous nuns in its vicinity testify, and it is certain it might again rival its former glory, as, except the government, nothing is changed. Of the ruins of the ancient city, the most worthy of attention are an old bridge and the remains of a palace, on part of the site of which the present village has been erected. That part of the wall of this palace now standing is about 300 feet in length, in some parts 14 feet high and is built of hewn stone, many pieces being 6 feet long and 3 feet in height. There are in the vicinity of the ancient city excavated to a great extent on the west side, where the face of the hill is abrupt, numerous hollows, some in the form of "sardabs," and probably used by the former inhabitants as such, whilst others have exactly the shape and dimensions of a coffin. On the occasion of the advance of a British detachment up the Kartin in pursuit of the Persian troops from Mohamra in the war of 1857, the Persians took up a position behind the ridge above the town, but they did not defend it after all. Ahwaz during this war was recommended as favourable site for a dep6t in the case of advance towards Shustar, but it was never used as such in the war of 1857. {Layard— Selby — Wray.) AINABAD — Lat. Long. ' Elev. A village in Khorassn, Persia. AINEH VARZUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 7 miles east from Demavand. It is a lar°t! ARA— ARD separates the beds of the stream from its south embankment. The houses appear to have been but of one story with vaulted roofs. Both sides of the town were united by two bridges of magnificent dimensions, as their remains and eulogiums of ancient Arab travellers would indicate. (Imperial Gazetteer.) ARATEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, between Sari and Mashad-i-sir. It is a large straggling place beautifully situated at the foot of the hills. (Holmes.) ARBA— Lat. Long. Elev. A small sub-district of Fars, Persia, situated close to Flrozabad, and consisting of four villages, viz., Hanjam, celebrated for its gardens and fruits, Abaderun Riid, Bala Ulia Rud, Bala Siflia. (Petty.) ARDEBAL— Lat. Long. Elev. A small sub-district attached to the government of Kum, Irak Ajami, Persia, and lying south of that town. It contains a good deal of detached cultivated land and seven villages, — Maihad, Kulejar, Armak, Kermak, Shunak, Sinehghan, Muzvesh. The revenue amounts to about £6,000 in cash, and grain worth about £4,000 more. The production of the villages around consists of various fruits, among which is a melon of superior quality, barley, wheat, rice, cotton, sesame seed, palma christi, tobacco of inferior quality, and a little good opium, but none of these are largely produced. Rice is not from every year, but in seasons when much rain having fallen there is a prospect of a sufficiency of water, it is said to be of as good quality as is the cotton. A variety of small tribes are found in this country, but their number are inconsiderable. (Keith Abbott.) ARDEBIL— Lat. 3814'. Long. 48°21'\ Elev. 5,000. A town in Azarbljan, Persia, left bank of the Karasu, 100 miles east of Tabrez, 40 miles west of Caspian Sea. It is situated near the south side of the great plain of Ardebil, which is about 40 miles long by 40 miles broad, and 5,000 feet elevation. It is a large straggling place, built from the ruins of a former city, surrounded by a ruinous mud wall, flanked by towers in a like state of decay. The houses are mean and small, built of mud or sun-dried bricks with flat roofs. The fort is situated 500 yards east-south-east from the town, and was constructed according to the European system of fortification. It is ISO yards square, built of mud with ditch, drawbridge, and glacis (by the French engineers of General Gardanne's embassy in 1809). There are no gardens m the vicinity of Ardebil, the strong north-east winds from the Caspian being very prejudicial to certain kinds of vegetation, especially fruit trees The climate is cold and not considered healthy, yet in many localities around, more especially on banks of the Karasu, abundant crops of rice wheat, and barley are raised. Ardebil is one of the places of pilgrimage enjoined on Mahamadans of the Shlah persuasion on account of its con- taining the tombs of ShekhSafi-u-dm and of his descendent Shah Ismail, the rounder oi the Saffavean dynasty. The fohowing description of the tomb of Shekh Safi is from Morier:— "The first approach to the tomb is by the gate at the north-west angle of the town, which leads into a street composed of a brick wall on the left side, aud of the habitations of the priests attached to the foundation on the right. It then passes through a smaller gateway, faced with slabs of Tabrez marble, wh,ch leads into a court filled with tombstones. The whole exterior of the tombs, as seen from this court, exhibit the approach of ruin. 26 ARD The small cupola which covers the mausoleum of the Shekh has given way in several places, and has already lost a great numher of its varnished tiles, whilst the rents and fissures in the walls do not announce a much longer duration to them. " On entering the first large hall, visitors are stopt by a silver grating, where they are obliged to take off their shoes. The large hall is beautifully painted and ornamented, and from its ceilling are suspended silver lamps and lanterns made of talc, whilst its floor is covered with carpets upon which, placed upon reading boards, are several copies of the Koran, but which time and use have rendered almost unserviceable. At the furthest end of this hall is the tomb of Shekh Safl, and the approach to it is by one high step, which is bounded by a second silver grating, and then a gateway plated with gold, beyond which visitors are not permitted to advance. Through this gate is discovered the tomb, covered with brocades and shawls, and upon the summit of which are placed bunches of feathers, ostriches' eggs, and other ornaments. Among the offerings a golden ewer, set with precious stones, is the most conspicuous having been presented by Hamaun Shah. " Close to the tomb of the Shekh are those of his sons, who are said to have commenced these different buildings, but which were completed, beau- tified, and endowed by the great Shah Abbas. To the left, in a small dark room, is the tomb of Shah Ismail, the first king of the Safis, which is over- laid by a very beautiful casement of fine work like mosaic, composed of ivory, tortoise shell, and turquoises, inlaid with passages from the Koran, and which is probably the most valuable, as well as the most curious object to be seen in this place. This also was a present from Hamaun Shah. " Prom the tombs the visitor is led to a saloon of large dimensions, painted and ornamented in a beautiful style, and upon the floor of which are placed a great variety of China bowls, vases, &c, besides several curious wrought cups of jade and agate, apparently not Mahamadan workmanship. A col- lection of manuscript books, the gift of Shah Abbas, are here preserved in two large closets inserted, in the wall. The books are in excellent pre- servation, and consist of the best Persian works, some of which are beauti- fully written and highly illuminated. Most of them are stamped with the seal of Shah Abbas, and on the blank page at the beginning of each it is inscribed that they were left for the use of those who would read them on the spot, but that a curse would fall upon whomsoever should take them from it. Such donations as these are called 'wakf ' (a bequest), and it is a general belief amongst this people, that whoever shall steal or violate any such property will sooner or later be visited by heavy misfortunes. To this persuasion we may attribute the preservation of the library — a feeling which we found to be strong in the breasts of its present administrators, as they decidedly refused to dispose of any one of the books, although large prices were offered to them. " The last curiosities brought to our notice were a Koran, 600 years old, made of the thick silky paper of khatai, so large and heavy that two men could scarcely lift it ; and a book in the ' Cuffick' character, con- taining several chapters of the Koran, as we were assured, written by the hand of Ali, seven years after the Hejra." The original endowment of the whole establishment was of 18,000 tomans per annnm, which, like the endowments of mosques, consists in unalienable 27 ARD grants of land, the revenues of which are assigned for the maintenance of the mollahs or priests. The library of Ardebil was carried off by the Russians in 1828, not- withstanding that the place had surrendered without fighting to Count Sutchelen. The revenue of the town formerly amounted to 14,000 tomans per annum, but the king remitted 3,000 tomans of this ; and the present revenue is taxes on cattle 4,000, on shops and trade 4,000, from the customs 3,000, total 11,000. The trade of Ardebil is principally with Russia through the port of Astara. The imports from thence, chiefly of iron, steel, paper, and earthen- ware and hardware, are usually packed in painted boxes. The imports from the interior of Persia are mostly in transit for Russia, and amount during the year to about 3,000 horse loads of galls, dried fruits, Persian manufactures, and some native cotton twist from the Hamadan. Almost all goods from Russia come by way of Astara. The population of the province of Ardebil is said to be classed as follows : — 3,000 for the town. 1,000 for the villages. 5,000 Shahsewunds ; total 9,000 families. The plain of Ardebil is situated high, and the fruits common to the warmer parts of Persia are not produced here, although apples, pears, and cherries are in abundance. The climate is cold and healthy. (Fraser — Morier — Holmes — Skeil — Imperial Gazetteer — Monteith — Stuart.) ARDEKAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Yezd, Persia, 40 miles north-west of Yezd. It is a small but flourishing place, protected by a strong wall, and it contains a good bazaar and some 600 houses. It is situated near the borders of the great salt desert which is said to be gradually encroaching southward. Snow does not remain long in winter, but a dry cold of considerable intensity is experienced, and from the aridity of the climate the heat in summer is also very oppres- sive. Henna is much cultivated in the neighbourhood, and the town has considerable manufactures of the cotton cloth used for the tents of the royal household and carpets checked blue and yellow. [Keith Abbott — Gibbons.) ARDEKUM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ears, Persia, situate to the west of Shiraz, the soil around is very fertile, and produces grapes and mud used for washing known as Gil- i-Sershor. [Chesney — Pelly.) ARDELAN— A province of Persia, forming the east division of Ktirdistan. It is 200 miles long from the little river Sharuk to the Turkish district of Zohab, and nearly 160 miles in breadth. It is divided from the plain of Hamadan by a small range of hills, and its west boundary is 100 miles beyond Sehna, the capital, situate in latitude 35°12', longitude 45." From the river Sharuk which separates it from Azarbljan to Sehna, the face of the country is everywhere the same. It presents to the view either progressive clusters of hills heaped as it were upon each other, or great table-lands covered with flocks and the tents of the Iliats. The valleys are narrow strips at the foot of the mountains where the villages are commonly built in situations which protect the few inhabitants that remain in them from the inclemency of the weather. The soil is good and would yield abundance, but the Kurds prefer a pastoral 28 ARD-ARS life. The oil plant is everywhere common, and tobacco is cultivated in small quantities. Wooded mountains separated by narrow valleys and occasional plains, producing excellent pasture, cover the north portion of Ardelan. The woods yield excellent oak and fine gall apples, the latter of which are chiefly exported to India. The Vail of this district, who is also the principal Kurdish chieftain subject to Persia, maintains feudal state at Sehnah. Between Kala Shah Khani and Kazir Ilias the nature of the country entirely changes, and instead of a succession of verdant hills, intermixed with deep glens, there are here extensive cultivated plains bounded by bleak and barren mountains. The Vali of Ardelam claims descent from the celebrated Salah-u-Din or Saladin, the famous enemy of the Crusaders. {Malcolm — Kinneir — Chesney.) ARDISTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Aj ami, Persia, 99 miles from Yezd, 177 miles from Tehran. It is a large village and has abundance of water from " kanats," and supplies- are plentiful. It is situate at the base of some hills. There are many pomegranate gardens here. {Pelly.) ARGART— An iron mine in Azarbijan, Persia, 12 miles north of Ahar. " The ore is very rich and abundant, and was once worked under the superintendence of Sir Henry Bethune, but was given up from want of money, though the Persian Government is " obliged to buy all the iron it wants from the Russians." [Holmes) ARISTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Yezd, Persia, 2 miles from the town. It is situated near an utterly sterile plain, but is itself in the midst of gardens. {Keith Abbott.) ARJAMAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Persia which apparently rises on mountain Demavand, north of Tehran. There is no further information of its destination. {Stuart.) ARMAGHANEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, situate 25 miles from Zanjan, 50 miles from Miana. The country around is well cultivated, though the soil is very stony. It is intersected by deep hollows, watered by clear streams. {Ouseley — Stuart.) ARMANI BOLAKI— -Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the province of Azarbijan, Persia, situated on the bank of the Jaghatfi river in the Bezi district, 13 miles south of Mahamadjik. It is inhabited by Mikri Kurds. {Bawlinson.) ARMEK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Ktim, district Irak Ajami Pass, Persia, south of the town of Kum and in the sub -district Ardebal. ARSINJAN— A town in Fars, Persia, 58 miles east of Shiraz. It is a large place encom- passed by extensive gardens. It is situated in a- valley encircled by hills that are in the highest degree cultivated and abundantly stored with running streams, one of which turns, 10 or 12 water mills in the course of half a mile. The defile of Arsinjan, which is on the road just east of this town, in some place does not exceed 50 yards in width, and is nearly one league in length. The mountains on each side ascend perpendicularly to a great altitude, and were its natural strength aided by artificial improvements, it might be rendered tenable by a very small division against the largest army. {Potting er.) 29 ASA— ASI ASADABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Persia, 78 miles from Kirmanshah, on the road to Hamadan, from which it is distant 25 miles. It is a small walled town of 3,000 inhabitants, surrounded by gardens and well watered by streams from the hills, which flow through the streets of the town. In the valley about 3 miles higher up is a strong fort on a high mound with a- village at its foot called Karez. (Tayler.) ASAR KIRAH— A tribe of the Chab Arabs who reside near Oushar near Buziah in the Falahiyah District of Khuzistan, Persia. They number 4,000 fighting men. (Petty.) ASFERJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Irak Ajami, Persia, 70 miles south of Ispahan on the road to Persipolis, from which it is 120 miles. It is described as " a pleasant town." ASHAKIAH— A division of the Sufi sect of Persia. (Malcolm.) ASHAKABAH— The name of a branch of the Kajar tribe of Persia. It signifies the" lower," and is that of the present dynasty of Persia. (Malcolm) ASHDARKOH— Lat. Long. Elev. A hill in KhorasSn, Persia, on which is built the fort of Kalat-i-Nadar. It is very high, and is accessible only by two narrow paths. (Malcolm — Kinneir.) ASHIRET— A term applied to the wild tribes on the Turko-Persian frontier who do not pay any tribute. (Stuart.) ASH-KEZER— Lat. Long Elev. A large village in Yezd district of Persia, 10 miles north-west of the , town. It is situated amid sand-hills, and possesses extensive walled gardens, but little other cultivation. The sand has encroached on one side of this village. ASHRAF— Lat. Long. Elev. A ruined palace in Mazandaran, Persia, on the south shore of the Astara- bad bay of the Caspian. It was the favourite residence of Shah Abbas and consists of a series of beautiful gardens of. orange trees and sycamore' with pleasure houses, streams of water running through it, and command- mg a fine view of the Caspian about 5 miles distant. It is now a ruined town with 1,200 families. (Omeley— Holmes— Eastwick.) ASHTABONAT— See Savonat. W ' ASIABEG-Lat. Long. Elev A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, about 65 miles south-west of Tehran It fe used as a foraging quarter of the Persian cavalry and artillery ASILU— Lat. 27° 27' 42". Long. 52° 33' 45" Elev A town on the coast of Laristan, Persia, situated at the north-west entrance of the Bay of Assilu. It is nearly a mile in length, and contains about 900 men of the Al Aram and Bosamat tribes. They have a n^ber of trading vessels and take a share in the pearl fishery. The only^ort t aboTl noT ht ?° WU /r *Sf iBteriOT - " The t0 ™ is Wonted by a i^ef about 1,000 yards off the shore, within which is a basin withVto » fathoms water, where their boats lay. The anchorage before the town t 30 ASI— ASL good before a south-easter, but a very heavy sea rolls in on a north-wester. About 24 miles up the Bay with Asllii Notch bearing north 12° to north 15° west in 3£ or 4 fathoms you lie pretty well secured. Supplies of fresh provisions and water are procurable here. The ruins of a Portu- guese town with two fortified hills belonging to it are situated near this town. " The Bay of Asilu or Naband is formed by Nakle Taki and Asilu on one side and Cape Naband on the other. It is 5 miles wide and rather more in length. Several villages are situated round it. The depth of water is from 11 to 2£ fathoms. In the middle is a rocky bank with 3£ fathoms least water in it. In towards the bank that runs off the shore all round to the distance of 1,000 yards, the ground is generally clay or mud, but in the middle of the Bay hard sand with patches of rock. There is no danger whatever within it or at the entrance. The shore abreast of Nakle Taki and Asilu should not be approached under 7 fathoms. After the Notch bears north you may keep many depths to 3| fathoms, and with the Notch from north 10° to north 15° west is the best anchorage for a ship in a north-wester, from 3 to 4 fathoms round. In a south-easter you are sheltered in all parts of the Bay. Asilu Notch is a remarkable hill on high land nearly over the town. The extreme point of hill is in latitude 27° 33' 6", longitude 52° 42' 30". A pass into the interior winds round near it." (Bracks.) ASK— Lat. 36°. Long. 52° 8\ Elev. 5,900. A village in Persia, about 50 miles south of Amol, in Mazandavan, and north of Tehran, on the right bank of the Haraz river. It is the capital of the mountain chiefship of Larljan, is said to contain about from 900 houses and 1,500, to 2,500 inhabitants and is the chief of 72 villages. It is an extraordi- nary place situated on one side of a great mountain, and excepting where the river Haraz has formed an opening, surrounded by other immense mountains, pre-eminent among which is the hoary Demavand. Darcy Todd says of its situation. " Its position is remarkable. The Haraz runs below the town through a deep and narrow channel of rock crossed by a wooden bridge. From the water's edge the town is built on natural steps rising to the height of several hundred feet upon the south-east side of Demavand which forms one of the natural impassable barriers of the place. A chain of lofty mountains shuts in the valley on ever side, the only ingress and egress to which is at the points where the river enters and leaves the narrow basin on the south side of which Ask is situated." {Shell — Stuart — VArcy Todd.) ASKERI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bushahr district of Fars, Persia, 45 miles from Bushahr. It contains 100 houses of Arabs and pays a revenue of 200 tomans. (Petty.) ASLANDUS— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, just below the junction of Karasu and Aras. It is a collection of huts made of reeds and mats tenanted by a few miserable nomads. Here is an artificial hill in the shape of a cone which has been fortified by the Persians to defend the adjacent fords of the Aras, which are very practicable. Here the Persian force under Abbas Mirza was encamped in the war of 1828, when a Russian detachment under Major Kustlerousky surprised it, and inflicted an immense loss, among which was 12 guns. Major Christie, a gallant English officer of the Persian Army, refusing to desert 31 ASL— AST his men, was killed after a most desperate resistance, and notwithstanding the o-enerous efforts of the Russian General to spare him. This ford is of some importance, and has been repeatedly used by troops operating in this direction, notably so by Prince Madatoff, who crossed on the February 28th, 1828, with a body of Russian troops, and carried dismay into the Persian territory as far as Miskln. (Monieith — Horier.) ASMARt— Lat. Long. Elev L A spur of the Bakhtiarl mountains in the province of Khuzistan, Persia, to the east of Shustar. (Layard.) ASPAS— Lat. Long. Elev. A ruined fort in Fars, Persia, 91 miles from Shiraz on road to Ispahan, from which it is distant 160 miles. It is situated at the foot of a range of mountains and has a large swamp on its west. ASSASSINS— The name of a military and religious order, formed in Persia by a sect of Mahamadans in the ninth century, who, in process of time, obtained possession of 10 or 12 cities, and chose a leader or king to whom they gave the name of the ' Old Man of the Mountain/ who resided in the hill- fort of Alamtit, north of Kasvin in Irakajanu, and surrounded himself with a devoted band, dressed in a peculiar manner and armed with sharp daggers, who paid the most implicit deference to his commands, esteemed assassin- ation meritorious when sanctioned by his mandate ; and who believed that the highest joys of paradise awaited them, should their lives be sacrificed in his service. Secret assassination against which no precaution could prevail, was the tremendous instrument of his vengeance. The greatest monarchs stood in awe of him, for his was a power which they could not guard against, and many princes fell under the daggers of their followers, assassins who had succeeded in getting into their service for the purpose of destroying them. About the middle of the 12th century, however, the assassins were themselves exterminated by the great Mongol conqueror, MangQ Khan, their haunts all taken one after another, and their inmates massacred without distinction. (Imperial Gazetteer?) ASTABANEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, situate east of Shiraz. It produces wheat, barley opium and saffron, and possesses some gardens. The inhabitants are mostly Mulas. It is celebrated for having a large poplar tree said to be 400 years old. Good crockery is manufactured here. (Pelly.) ASTANA— Lat Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 10 miles from Daolatabad, on the road to Shahrtid. (Eastwick.) ASTANEK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, situated on the road between Chasmah All and Damghan. (Morier.) ASTAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Persia on which the town of Astarabad is situated, and to which it gives its name. It is a considerable river, and is navigable for a short distance from its mouth in the Caspian. {Kinneir ) ASTARA— Lat. 38° 20'. Long. 48° 20'. Elev. A district on either bank of the Astara river, 45 miles north-east of Ardebll 130 miles east by north of Tabrez, one mile from its debouchment into the Caspian, and which forms the boundary between the Russian province of Talish 82 AST and that of Persia, consisting of several villages, each village is said to contain 50 or 60 houses. The river at this point is about 40 yards broad, and on the Persian side there are two ranges of store-houses for the reception of mer- chandise, and a good natural quay alongside of which boats of three tons burden can lay. Across the mouth is a bar of sand partly above water, leaving only a narrow shallow passage on the north side by which these boats enter : they are employed along the coast to land the cargoes of vessels which are obliged to lie a couple of miles out at sea. Astara is merely a landing place, and there is no bazaar or market, and nothing is disposed of here, but what arrives is immediately transported to Ardebll. The iron in landing is thrown on the beach, where the bars are cut into convenient lengths for land carriage. On the Russian side of the river immediately opposite is the village of Gulehkeran, containing about 400 houses. It is inhabited by Musalmans, and except a commandant and a guard of 15 Cossacks, no Russians are settled there. No duties are taken on goods entering the Russian territory, but an officer seals the packages which proceed to Lenkoran where the customs are levied. The climate here is said to be milder than in the districts more inland. {Holmes — Abich — Shell.) ASTARABAD— Elev. A province of Persia, between latitude 36°-20' and 38°, longitude 53°-40' and 57°-55', bounded north by the desert of Khiva, south by the Elburz, west by Caspian, and east (not clearly denned) by the river Ashor. It is divided into the following districts under their respective governors : Anazon, Seddem, Rustak, Astarabad, Astarabad Rustak, Katul, Kabut Jameh. The two former lie west of Astarabad, Kabiit Jameh along the south, Astara- bad Rustak to the north, and the remainder to the east. The south portion is lofty and mountainous, but immediately below an extensive plain of sur- passing beauty and richness stretches out to the north, east and west. Towards the Caspian, however, the country, though still remaining level, has its beauty and fertility, and exhibits the well-known characteristics of a steppe. Great part of the surface both towards the south slope and through- out the rich plain is covered with magnificent forests, so close and tangled as not only to be often impassable, but to exclude the proper circulation of the air and generate pestilential vapours. The diseases thus spread over the pro- vince have repeatedly made fearful ravages, and are so much dreaded by the roving Turkmans, of whom the rural population chiefly consists, that when rain sets in and begins to form stagnant pools and swamps, they retire beyond the Atrak and prefer the verge of a burning sandy desert to the fatal luxuriance of Astarabad. The inhabitants of the villages being sta- tionary have not the same resource and suffer severely from sickness. Nor is this their only calamity. Though the rich soil produces all kinds of grain and fruit in great abundance, it too often happens that those who sow the crop are not permitted to reap it. The Turkmans who had retired usually return again before harvest, and make no scruple of appropriating it as their own. No redress can be obtained. The king of Persia, though nomi- nally sovereign, is scarcely able, and is probably not much disposed, to inter- fere with these predatory hordes so long as they continue as at present to furnish him with the best horsemen of which his army can boast. The total revenue of the province of Astarabad amounts to about £6,350 ; £3,000 from the province, £3,000 from the Turkmans, £300 from the town, and £50 from 33 e AST the fisheries. Of this £1,000 are allowed the governor as a salary, £500 to his wife and £500 to his eldest son, or £2,000 in all, though he probably manages to obtain more than double tbat sum by means of fines, confisca- tions, presents, &c. The remainder of the revenue is expended in the salaries of the different government officers and a part for the pay of the irregular soldiery who are all matchlockmen and receive a nominal pay of £1 a year. A rough approximation of the population of the province is given by Mr. Holmes, who visited it in 184-3, at 83,000. The dress of the people of Astarabad is the same as that of the Mazandar- 5nis, and most of them speak both Persian and Turkish. Besides the native peasantry, there are about 100 families from Karabagh settled here, and called Maksulis, and from 100 to 120 families of Biloches (? Afghans). Of the Kajar tribe, there are now only about 500 families, 400 in the town and 100 among the villages, the rest are scattered all over Persia with the various governors of provinces who have been chosen from this tribe. The climate of Astarabad is unwholesome, being excessively hot in summer and damp and often cold in winter. The people have a pale and haggard appearance, and such a thing as a rosy cheek is not to be seen in the province. The roads of the province are partly good, partly swampy and difficult. Astarabad possesses many torrents which in the autumn become either dry or mere rivulets, but can boast of only one river, the Karasu. The Gurgan and the Atrak are in a territory in a measure subject to Persia and under the government of this province, but can hardly be said to belong to it geographically. There are fine sturgeon fisheries at the mouths of all these streams and also in the Bay of Astarabad. The agricultural productions of Astarabad are rice, barley, wheat, cotton, and sesame ; several kinds of " kerbaz," a native manufacture of cotton, are made, and a considerable quantity of soap. The mountainous districts are rich in mineral production, especially iron coal is found in Shahku, but the people do not well understand how to work the mines. In 1724 Peter the Great invaded the territory south of the Caucasus, and having taken Darband entered into a treaty with Persia by which that power ceded Daghistan, Shervan, Ghilan, Mazandaran and Astarabad, but the attempt to take over the two latter was never made. Nevertheless the fact remains of the whole of the Caspian provinces of Persia were ceded to Russia, by a treaty which has never been formally annulled and is noteworthy. (Holmes — Kianeir — Monteilh — Chesney — Eastwick — Fraser.) ASTARABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. The chief and only city of the province of the same name. It is situated at the foot of the north-west slope of the Elburz and on the river Astar which falls into the Astarabad Bay in the south-east of the Caspian, 20 miles below. It is enclosed within a crenellated mud wall about 18 feet high and from 3 to 4 miles in circumference, flanked by a series of round towers, and it has once been strengthened by a ditch now in most places filled up. These defences, particularly on the north and east sides of the town, are in ruins, and would oppose no obstacle to an attack. There are three gateways, one to the west, where the walls are in the best repair, one to the south, and one to the north-east ; they are roofed, and have small chambers on each side serving as a lodging for the guard. The jungle, which formerly approached close to the walls on all sides, has in a great measure disappeared and given place to cultivation. The present 34 AST town by no means fills up the space enclosed, which is partly occupied by gardens and heaps of rubbish, the remains of former habitations. It is divided into three quarters, and is said to contain between 2,000 and 2,300 houses. These are built with mud or sun-dried bricks of a light open style of architecture with projecting fronts and sloping roofs covered with red tiles or thatch. Many of them have small gardens filled with orange, pomegranates, cherry, and other fruit trees, and the tops of the walls being planted with ouses, gilliflowers and stocks for protection from the rain, the place in spring has a very cheerful and pleasing appearance. Astarabad has three gates, the Shahrud gate to the east, that of Chehl Dukhtar or forty virgins (so called from a raid made by the Turkmans in which 40 maidens were captured) to the south, and the Mazandaran to the west, on which side, too, there is a ridge running out for | mile to an eminence some 200 feet high, which has once been fortified and looks as if made for an acropolis. Astarabad possesses some 10 or 12 'mearesehs' and 8 or 9 of those reservoirs for cooling water, called " ab ambars" or " sardabs." The town is inhabited by the natives of the province, among whom may be reckoned 4<00 families of the Kajar tribe, the reigning family of Persia, but here, as in all Asiatic towns, it is impossible to form a just idea of the population, as the number of individuals composing a family differs so widely according to the rank and consideration of its head. During the winter the weather is generally mild, though damp and un- healthy, but the heat in summer becomes intense; and at that season the governor with about 200 of the richer inhabitants retire to their summer houses, situated among the mountains on one of the roads to Tehran. There are three caravanserais adjoining the bazaars, which are about the extent of those of Sari, and exhibit the same kind of merchandise, though the shops are not so well furnished, nor is there an appearance of equal activity. They are meanly built and in some places in ruins. The streets were all originally paved probably by Shah Abbas when he made the cause- way, and though they have doubtless been occasionally repaired, the present condition of the principal thoroughfare is very dilapidated. They are partly broken up, and the channels by which the water used to run off being thus interrupted, pools are formed which become larger every day by the loosening of the adjacent stones. Some of the less frequented streets are in better order, and the paving is sound, thdugh uneven. There are neither ancient nor modern buildings of any interest. The palace of the governor consists of several audience halls and other apartments, the principal of which, though now spoilt and half in ruins, was once yearly decorated with gilding and paintings. There are also two or three large square courts and a private garden. In one of the gateways of the former the artillery of the town is kept, consisting of two field pieces, one 9-pounder, the other a 4- pounder. The seraglio is a separate building surrounded by high walls, and situated a short distance from the palace towards the south. Eastwick says the most curious thing to be seen at Astarabad is the Ambar or prison, a place about 10 feet square, in which Turkmans when taken are kept before execution. In one corner of this den were piled at the time of his visit 41 human heads stuffed with straw. Some 40 or 50 petty merchants, residing at Astarabad, carry on a trade with the surrounding provinces. Some of it is in transit to Masbad, and the " chools" and " nummuds" of the Turkmans are sent to Tehran, and 35 ATA from thence to all parts of Persia. The remainder seems to he almost entirely confined to the consumption of the town and neighbouring villages. The imports from Tehran are European manufactures, chiefly English, also silks and velvets from Kashan — from Russia, cloth, iron, glass, hardware, painted boxes, loaf-sugar, prints, China-ware, and a very small quantity of tea ; from Khiva, ox hides and various skins ; from Mashad, a few cloaks and other manufactures ; and from the Turkmans, ' nummuds/ ' chools/ salt, horses, and naptha. The exports are soap, of which a great deal is manufactured here and goes to all the neighbouring provinces. Oil of sesame and the seed sent to Russia and the neighbouring provinces, are also used in the manufacture of soap. 'Chools' and ' nummuds' in transit to all parts of Persia and also to Russia. Manu- factures of Kashan and British goods in transit to Mashad ; rice and corn to the Turkmans ; cotton, a small quantity, to Russia and Ghilan. No duties are levied on the inland trade on this side of the mountains. The Russians pay the usual 5 per cent. The customs are farmed by the governor. It is exceedingly difficult to form any estimate of the quantities of the respective goods and the total annual amount of this trade. The revenue derived from the town amounts to about £ 300, of which £ 50 is the property of the crown, and the remainder belongs to the governor. The office of darogha, head of police, is farmed for £ 125, and the remainder is derived from taxes on shops. The slave trade, says Eastwiek, goes on briskly at Astarabad, and he was told that 500 Kalpak girls had been sold there lately for from 10 to 40 tomams each. Astarabad is called the Dar-al-Momin, or the gate of the faithful, from the number of Syads who inhabit it. The Astarabadis have the reputation of being very courageous — a character which they have acquired, perhaps, more from the impenetrable nature of their country than from real prowess. Almost every man is armed with a matchlock gun, which is a precaution rendered necessary by the neighbourhood of the Turkmans, who in their inroads often surprize them whilst they are laboring in the fields, and carry them away into servitude. The territory of Astarabad yields rice and corn, the former is the chief food of the people, the latter is made into bread only for the richer sort. The soil yields ten for one, and almost the whole is watered by the deyim or natural irrigation. On the coast they have a fishery, which is frequented by Russians only, who pay to the governor of Astarabad 100 tomams annually for the liberty. Seven or eight small ships are employed in this fishery, which consists of sturgeon, from which they extract the cavier {Kmneir—Fraser—Ckesney— Holmes— Stuart— Monteith—haslwick\ ATAK— Lat. Long. Elev The region situated between the foot of the hills on the north of Khorasan Persia, and the desert of Khiva. It is watered by streams from the north slopes of these hills, and formerly was one of the richest and fairest districts of the Persian monarchy, and this especially in the time of Nadar Shah but m the weak reigns that have followed, it has become from its vicinity to the homes of the Turkmans a precarious and dangerous abode. Of late they have almost utterly eradicated the fixed inhabitants, destroying towns and villages, and though a few of the former inhabitants still linger in their old abodes under the protection of the Khans of Kalat, Daragaz, Kha- hushan and Burjnurd, they lead a sad life of danger and 'alarm. Scarcely three days together pass without some attack, and never a week elapses 36 ATA— AYA without prisoners being made and lives lost. They cultivate their fields with their matchlocks at their baoks and their swords girded on, and when they reap, they go in parties, and all on horseback ; one holds the horses and looks out while the rest set to work ; on an alarm being given, they all mount and scour away to the villages. If they cannot reach them, they make for one of the towers that stud the whole plain like great pigeon houses, and hold out as long as they can. — (Fraser.) ATRAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Persia, which rises in Khorasan to the north of Burjnurd, and flows generally west, falling into the Caspian about 40 miles north of the embouchure of the Gurgan after a course of not less than 300 miles. -It forms the extreme boundary of Persia to the north, beyond is desert and the Turkmans. At the point where Connolly crossed it in April, it was about 3 feet deep. In spring its banks are overflowed, and the Turkmans sow melon and 'jowaree' in the alluvial soil. (Fraser — A. Connolly.) AUARBAT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 32 miles west by north Turshe'z. It is situated on a small stream, is surrounded by gardens, and contains about 150 houses. — (Clerk) . AUBARAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, 15 miles west of Mashad. It is surrounded with cultivation on all sides. — (Clerk). AVARK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 112 miles south-east of Kirman, and 30 miles north-east, Bam. It is a small place of about 25 miserable hovels, situated near a mound, crowned by the mud walls of a fort, and on the skirts of a vast plain stretching to the south-south-east for 60 miles. There are hot springs less than 2 miles from Avark in a direction north-east by north, enclosed within a building ; the water is clear and nearly tasteless and leaves a lime deposit. The temperature is 96° in the reservoir. — (K. Abbott) AVE — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 16 miles from Save. It is built on the site of an ancient town, and has a mound, on which formerly there stood a Guebre castle. — (K. Abbott.) AVIL— A small tribe who inhabit the vicinity of Durzin on the Tehrud, Kirman, Persia. — (K. Abbott.) AVROMAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A division of the district of Sehna in Persian Kurdistan. It is divided into four or five smaller districts. It is always governed by the same family, though the Vail of Kurdistan always chooses the particular member. —(Rich). AYA NO— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 10 miles south-west, Damghan. It is a small place of 30 houses situated in a ravine. There are two large isolated towers standing near its entrance falling into decay. The village furnishes 14 sol- diers to the Damghan regiment. The inhabitants cultivate a little wheat and keep a few sheep and cattle. — (Holmes.) AYAS— Lat. Long. Elev. A small walled town in Khorasan, Persia, about 10 miles south-east of Tun. It contains about 500 houses, inhabited by Persians. 37 AYE— AZA AYESHABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Yezd, Persia, about 3 miles south of Yezd. It is situated on the verge of an utterly sterile plain, but is itself surrounded by gardens. —(A*. Abbott.) AYI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khamseh district, Persia, 22 miles north-east of Zanjan. It is very pleasantly situated in the vale of Tarom, and possesses a garden house, which was built by a late governor of the province. AYYOVAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A small fort in Fars, Persia, on the south shore of lake Bakhtigan. — ■ (K. Abbott.) AZARBIJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A province of Persia, in the extreme north-west corner of that country. It is situated between latitude 36° to 40°, longitude 44° to 49°. The north and east boundaries of Azarbijan as far as the Astara river, are those of Persia, described elsewhere, as also is the west boundary, it will therefore only be necessary to describe the south and the rest of the east boundaries. From the Astara river as far as the village of Kuptirchar, the boundary is along the shore of the Caspian, thence it runs up to the crest of the Masflla mountains to the west, when it turns south-south-east, and runs along this ridge till it is stayed by the Kizl Ozan river. Thence this river divides it from Khamseh as far as Kizl Bolak, when it runs due west till it meets the Turkish frontier on the west. Its greatest length is 270 miles from east to west, and its greatest breadth 250 miles from north to south. Its least length is 110, and breadth 150. Chesney says its area is 25,285 square miles. The province of Azarbijan is composed of the following governments : — Khoi, Tabrez, Maragha, UrumTa, Karabagh, Ardabll besides the country of Maku (formerly part of Erivan), and the district of Kargana Bud, Asalem of Talish, Sarab, Garmrud, Hashtrvid which, though dependent on Tabrez, forms the government of the Shekakis; and Mishkfn, Arsha, TJjarud and Mogam form that of the Shahsewands. The boundaries of these divisions are very arbitrary, depending, as it does, principally on the influence of the respective governors. The province of Azarbijan is mountainous in its surface intermingled with fertile valleys, undulating plateaux, and some mountains of great height. The mountainous system of Azarbijan all emanates from the mountains of Kurdistan, and, with the exception of the short spurs which run down from that range in the west of the province to the rrumia Lake, it consists of one range which meanders through the whole province. This has its origin in Mount Akronal in about latitude 38°20', longitude 44°35', from thence it goes due east, dividing the drainage of Khoi from that of Salmast apparently under the name of the Koh Mashuk, and running south of Marand, draining, north to the Aras, and south to the Ajl Chai, to the north-east of Tabrez it takes the name of Kashka Dagh, shortly before which it throws a spur to the north called Shahvardi Koh (which runs parallel with the Ahar Chai branch of the Karasu river, and is ended south of the bridge of Khvida Afarld over the Aras). The Kashka Dagh still continues east, dividing the drainage of the Karasu from that of the Ajl Chai to the Savalan Dagh. At this point the ridge tarns due south still 38 AZA dividing the Karasu (which flows round from the south of Savalan to the north) from Ajl Chai, till in about latitude 37°50' it splits into two main ranges, one going east, the other west. The former maintains its east direction till longitude 4<8°35', when it also divides, one range going north under the name of the Bagru Koh, divides Talish from Azarbijan Proper, the other running south, and known, I believe, as the Masula Mountains, is ended by the Kizl Ozan river, and divides Ghilan from Azarbijan. The latter or west of the ramifications abovementioned goes west under the name of the Buzkoh to the Sahand Mountain, whence it turns due south (draining on the west to the Jagatu river and east to the tributaries of the Kizlozan) as far as the latitude of Mahamadjik, when it gives a short turn east, and then resuming its south course leaves the province of Azarbijan. The principal peaks of this range, which may with justice be termed the Azarbijan range, are those of Savalan Dagh, which reaches a height of 12,000 to 13,000 feet, and of Sahand rising to 9,000 feet. There is no data to show what the average height of the main ridge is. The plain country of Azarbijan merely consists of the valleys of the various rivers, which have on their banks always some level ground of greater or less breadth. On the right bank of the Aras there are some extensive^ plains as that of Mogam, and there are besides the plains of Ujan, Tabrez, Urumla. The rivers of this province are the Aras with its tributary, the Karasu, which receives the north drainage of the Koh Mashuk, Kashka Dagh and Savalan Dagh ; the Kizl Ozan on the east with its tributaries, the Karangu and Eye Dagamish, &c, which collect all the water of the Buzkoh and Sahand Mountains ; the Jagatu which drains from the Kurdistan range to the Lake Urumla, and finally the smaller streams of the Ajlchai, of the Dilman river, and that of Urumia. The only lake in the province of which I have any knowledge is that of Urumla or Shahi described elsewhere. The climate of Azarbijan is described as warm in summer and very severe in winter, but withal healthy. The spring is temperate and delight- ful, as is the autumn on the plains, but on the mountains it is always cold, though in summer the sun is hot. The winter lasts long, and in the moun- tains snow lies for seven and eight months in the year. I have unfortu- nately no precise information regarding the meteorology of this province, and in the absence of better therefore append the experience of Mr. Camp- bell, who spent a winter at Tabrez : " On the 20th October, he says, we had a heavy fall of snow which covered all the surrounding country, but it did not remain long on the ground, for the weather again became mild, and we had no excessive cold till the middle of December, from which period till the end of January, the thermometer when exposed to the air at night never rose above zero, and in our rooms at mid-day it seldom reached higher than 18." January was by far the coldest month. The water became almost instantaneously solid in the tumblers on the dining table. The ink was constantly frozen in our ink-stands, although the table were quite close to the fire. For at least a fortnight not an egg was to be had, all being split by the cold. Some bottles of wine froze, although covered with straw, and many of the copper ewers were split by the expansion of the water when frozen in them. Towards the end of February the weather became comparatively mild, but on the 1st of May we had a fall of snow 39 AZA and such cold weather that it destroyed all the vegetation. Afterwards the weather became very warm, and they began to cut their corn on the 15th July. The winter in Azarbijan becomes all the more severely felt from the almost total want of fuel, the only substitute for which is dried cow- dung mixed with straw." The mineral productions of Azarbijan are abundant and valuable. Sheil says, Karabagh contains mines where copper and iron are procurable to an extent almost unlimited. The iron ore is in some places so pure that the mountains are said to be formed of that substance. Morier mentions that there is a silver mine in the province, which, however, for some reason did not pay the expense of working it. I find also that it is said to produce salt, saltpetre, sulphur and lead, while at Maraga is found a beautiful trans- parent white marble which is much prized in Persia being used for paving baths and palaces and in thin plates as windows. Large numbers of cattle, camels, horses, and sheep are said to be reared in the province. Horses, I believe, are principally bred in the district of Karadagh. Considerable quantities of wool is produced, as well as wax and honey. The population of Azarbijan are celebrated above all others in Persia for their vigour, energy, and military aptitude. They are all of Turkish origin, and that language is spoken throughout the province, even by the governors who are themselves also of Turkl descent. I see the Imperial Gazeteer places the number of the population at 1,500,000, though on what authority the statement is founded I do not know. The tribes who inhabit Azarbijan are given by Sheil as follows : — " Shahsevan, 10,000 tents. Truks five in Miskln Ardebll. Shekakl 15,000 tents and houses Leks. Zerger 400 tents Leks. Chelebeanlu 1,500 tents and houses. Kulbeglu and Mishkamber 400 tents and houses Leks reside in Karadagh. Karachoorlu 2,500 tents and houses, Leks, reside in Karadagh. K/iagehalilu 800 tents and houses, Turks, live in Karadagh. Begdillu 200 tents and houses, Turks, live in Karadagh. Sheklu, 150 tents and houses, Turks, live in Karadagh. Mukadam 5,000 houses, Tats, Turks, live at Maragha. Mahmudlii 2,500 houses, chiefly Tats, Turks, live near Maragha. Beharlu, 2,000 houses, chiefly Tats, Turks. Afshar 7,000 houses. Tats, Turks, live in Urumia. Ahmadavand, 200 houses, Tats Leks^ live in Urumia, Karapapak 1,500 houses, Tats, Turks, live in Solduz. Dumbeli 2,000 houses, Tats, Leks Mikri 15,000 houses and tents, Koords reside in Suj Bolak in Azarbijan. These Koords are completely subject to Persia. Baban 1,500 houses and tents, Koords, live at Solduz. Thus the total population of the tribes amounts to 65,100 tents, or, at five souls per tent, to 325,500 souls." These tribes will be found described elsewhere." The principal towns of Azarbjian are Tabrez, the_ capital, Ardabil, Maraud, Khoi, Sarab, Delman, Urumia, Nakhodeh, Ushnae, Suj Bolak, Dehkargan, Binal, and Maragha. The agricultural produce of this province consists of wheat, barley, maize, rye, flax, hemp, madder, fruits, cotton, tobacco, and grapes. In corn its resources are said to be practically unlimited. The amount of revenue demanded in kind annually is as much as 71,501 "kharwars" and large amounts are annually exported to supply the deficiency of other districts. 40 AZA The pasture lands in this province are very extensive and valuable, comprising as they do, the slopes of nearly all the mountains and many fine plains besides. There are, I believe, no forests in Azarbijan, a scarcity of trees being one of the greatest evils of this otherwise fortunate province. The villages are for the most part embosomed in orchards and gardens, but these are of course not available as timber or fuel. The chief articles of manufacture are velvets, silk stuffs, carpets, woollens, copper utensils, arms and a little cutlery. There are very extensive tan- neries, and the dressing of furs and skins is a general occupation. The trade of Azarbijan is considerable, all the commerce in English and other European goods which are used in Persia passing through this province. I regret that I have no data for even a fair note on this subject, but it probably would be easily procurable in the records of the British Consulate at Tabrez. The communications of Azarbijan will be found described in the routes appended to this volume. The chief ones of the province are, 1° the main road which runs through the centre of the province from Arzrum to Tehran; 2° from Tabrez north-north-west to Nakhshwan; 3° from Tabrez north to Shusha ; 4° east to Ardabll, 5° south to Maragha and Suj Bolak, 6° north to Dilman; then round the west shore of Lake Urumia to Soldiiz and Suj Bolak: I cannot make out whether the Azarbijanls are of the Sum or Shiah persuasion. The government is considered the most important in Persia, and is always held by a royal prince and frequently by the heir-apparent. The seat of government is at Tabrez. The numerous districts detailed above are all supplied with governors on the nomination of the prince governor of the province. The revenue of Azarbijan was ascertained by Monteith in 1825 to be 726,286 tomams per annum, the proportion taken from each district in money and grain being as follows :■ — Tomams. Kharwars. Dehkargan. TTrtLmia District of TTramla Binab Shahabad Angyl and Kaiadagh- Doul Tergewar Borandasht Nohia Dasht Oushin Soumich Bewand ShekakI tribe ... Shekufti „ Mikrl „ Mutrib Sain Kala Mergewar TTramia Khoi Salinas 1,000 4,197 2,135 2,021 1,137 10,695 5,993 5,663 3,340 1,635 397 •575 312 331 359 717 243 2,745 953 395 309 None. 1,246 476 72 1,831 1,257 . 647 485 14,248 221 10,188 2,530 41 AZA Villages of Khol Ditto Villages of Salmas District Sikmanabad Derik KarakoinlS. Charrl Chalderan Awanjak Saiab Tev Oumak Char Imak GarmarQd ..." tTch Tapeh Ak Darehsi Babarwanah Ditto Garm Galig&r Kendewah Miana Arwanah or Gunney Jewanich Hommadirian . . . Homa Dorreban Auzab Mebranariid t)jan Abbas Karadagh Misbkin SudtSuleab Kulligan Dejaybagull Mehrandi and Gargar Tabrez Bedoinstan Kbalkal Kakakanan Khormndabil ... Shahrud Lungabid Rudhigate Vidar Ardabll Maraga Pasba of Sulimaniga Beg of Hakaiis Various Kurdish Chiefs Value of grain , . . Total Irregular Revenue. Total Gband Total 4SJ Tomams. Kh&rwars. 16,632 526 3,515 340 2,272 1,209 1,496 1,048 1,162 226 1,718 841 5,209 1,123 2,450 200 l,fi61 3,775 1,458 1,840 2,495 19,510 4,430 529 58 441 40 645 118 605 210 423 50 442 50 1,037 58 2,738 295 26,873 1,083 11,168 453 6,600 , 5,050 1,550 3,372 485 4,600 1,932 686 663 1,308 1,035 46,659 3,200 12,000 24 5,947 439 933 218 165 35 15,003 5,000 70,200 80 1,225 450 19,263 5,183 4,608 1,252 4,766 705 3,695 522 3,663 1,231 4,848 374 10,600 15,000 5,000 , 80,000 12,000 . 5,01,784 71,501 . 12,000 4,000 6,000 . 5,23,784 . 1,92,502 7,26,286 AZA Another paper by C. Pasley, Secretary to the British Mission in Persia, states that the revenue of Azarbijan, demanded by the royal government, is 108,267 tomams and 108,267 'kharwars' in grain, or according to the usual commutation rate of one tomam for each 'kharwar/ the total would be 216,534 tomams. Of this 18,862 tomams is given in fixed salaries to various persons in the province, so that the net revenue taken from Azarbijan is 197,672 tomams, leaving 528,614 tomams as the net revenue available for the prince's government. The mode in which this is raised is by taxes as follows : — Each male between 50 and 60 Reals. House or family ... ... ... ... ... 4 Mare ... ... ... ... ... ... 2 Horse ... ... ... ... ... ... 1 Ass ... ... ... ... ... ... 1 Cow ... ... ... ,.'. ... ... 1 Buffaloe... ... ... ... ... ... 2 Sheep ... ... ... ... ... .. 10 Hive of bees ... ... ... ... ... 10 Gardens per 125 square yards .. ... ... ... 40 Lands watered by natural streams pay ygths, by artificial aqueducts -j-'^th. All lands are exempt for three years when newly brought under cultivation. The Azarbljanis, as has been remarked above, have great aptitude for the military profession, and, consequently, it is not surprising to find that the prince governor of this province generally has the power to raise a large army of the best troops of Persia. Morier, who received his information from the Vazlr of the prince governor, gives the following estimate of the number of troops which could be raised in this province: — cavalry, 22,000; irregular infantry, 12,000; Regular Infantry, 6,000 ; total 40,000 ; and as he states that each man of this has a substitute ready to take his place, the total force would be raised to 80,000 men. Monteith mentions that at the time of the war of 1826, the army of Azarbijan amounted to 20,000 cavalry, 6,000 regular infantry, 10,000 ir- regular infantry. By the exertions of Sir Harford Jones, the regular infantry was increased to 12,000. These, he says, were superior to anything the Russians could bring against them, except in the one particular of not having an efficient commander-in-chief. Sheil remarks that the flower of the Persian army is from Azarbijan, less compulsion being necessary to obtain recruits here than in any other parts of the kingdom. One-half the artillery (3,000 men) come from this province, and these are soldierly, active, workmanlike fellows, who take their guns anywhere. Of the regular infantry, too, he says, 25,000 are taken from Azarbijan, and 6,000 of the irregular cavalry. Prom these data it does not seem too much to say that a force as follows could be raised in this province : — cavalry, 20,000 (a match for any Cossacks, says Sheil) ; artillery, 3,000 ; irregular infantry, 25,000 ; regular infantry, 12,000.; or total, 60,000 men. Azarbijan being the nearest province to Russia, being also the most productive, most warlike in Persia, and moreover being that which places Persia and the East in direct communication with Europe (by Tarabizun and Arzrum), it is evident that in the event of another war with Russia, this 43 AZA— BAB will be the first province seized on, and the one in which will lie the most kaportant operations. I trust, therefore, the meagerness of the above information of this imporant province (the possession of which to Russia will make Persia powerless and a tool for Russian ends, far more even than she is now), will induce an effort to make it more complete. {Monteith— Pasley— Shell— Malcolm— Morier.) A A divisionlf the Kajar tribe of Persia. They were removed to Merv in the reign of Shah Thamasp I., and continued to hold that place till con- quered by the Uzbaks under the king of Bokhara, who nearly annihilated the tribe.— {Malcolm.) AZ-KAND— Lat. Long. Jr* 7 ' A + nv i, A village in Khorasan, Persia, 62 miles from Khaf, on the road to Turshez, from which it is distant 15 miles. It is described as " fortified. —{Taylor.) AZMIR— Lat. Long- , „ _ ™T . , T , - A range of hills in Kurdistan, to the north-east of Sulimaniah. It is a spur of the great range of Kurdistan. It is crossed on the road to Sulimaniah from Karatcholan by a very tolerable road which zigzags up the face of the hill without any precipice. The road then leads over the hill for i mile, and then descends at nrst not badly, but afterwards it continues along a precipice, which itis dangerous to ride on ; thence the descent is easy into the plain of Sulimaniah. {Rich.) B. BABA BEG— See Shahr-i-Babak. BABA HAFIZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, near Damghan. It is enclosed within four walls with towers at the angles, looking like a square fort. Close to the village are the remains of the castle of Mehr Nigand crowning the height of an apparently inaccessible precipice. {Holmes.) BABA HAJI— A village in Pars, Persia, 15 miles from Shiraz, on the road to Firozabad, from which it is distant 51 miles. A few supplies are procurable here from the nomades, and there is generally some grain stored in the village. Water is derived from a spring. The climate here in summer is said to be cool and refreshing. {Petty.) BABIL— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Mazandaran in Persia, which rises in the Elburz range, and flowing past Barfarosh falls into the Caspian Sea at the port of Mashad-i-Sir. It lies too far below the level of the country to be useful for purposes of irrigation. At Barfarosh it is about 50 yards, and flows with a current of about 2 miles an hour ; it is said to be navigable for boats from Mashad-i-Sir to within 3 or 4 miles of Barfarosh, but it is not used for this purpose. At 44 BAB Barfarosh it is described by Stuart as a full sluggish stream, about 50 yards broad. Above Barfarosh it is crossed by a handsome brick bridge of eight arches, very slightly raised in the centre. {Fraser — Eolmes) BABIS. A religious sect of Persia, the origin, views and progress of which are thus described by Shiel : — " This sect is styled Babi from Bab, a gate, in Arabic, the name assumed by its founder, meaning the gate to heaven. " This celebrated person, whose real name was Syad All Mahamad, was born 80 years ago in Shiraz, where his father was a merchant. When 15 years of age he was sent to his theological studies at Najaf. Here he became acquainted with two ' derveshes' with whom he was for a considerable period on terms of great intimacy. He was afterwards sent to Bushahr to follow commercial pursuits, but he withdrew from society, and in a life of seclusion devoted himself to the religious exercises commonly observed by derveshes. These mystic practices are supposed to have affected his intellect. After some changes he settled at Kazamln, near Baghdad, where he first divulged his pretensions to the character of a prophet. Incensed at this blasphemy, the Turkish authorities issued orders for his execution, but he was claimed by the Persian consul as a subject of the Shah and sent to his native place. Here in a short time he collected so many disciples around him that imprisonment followed an investigation into his doctrines. It was debated whether he was to be treated as a lunatic or a blasphemer, an unworthy descendant of the prophet ; but his life was saved by the voice of the Shekh ul Islam on his making a public recantation of his errors from the pulpit of one of the principal mosques. He contrived to escape from prison and made his way to Ispahan, where many people of distinction secretly embraced his opinions. Again arrested, he was sent to the fort of Charak in Azarbijan, and under the infliction of the bastinade he again recanted his errors. Six months afterwards it having been ascertained that his doctrines were obtaining rapid diffusion among all classes, he was conveyed to Tabrez, and on the day of his arrival was brought out for execution in the great maidan or square. This was on the point of becoming a most remarkable event, which would probably have overturned the throne and Islamism in Persia. A company of soldiers was ordered to despatch Bab by a volley. When the smoke cleared away Bab had disappeared from sight. It had so happened that none of the balls had touched him ; and prompted by an impulse to preserve his life, he rushed from the spot. Had Bab possessed sufficient presence of mind to have fled to the bazar, which was within a few yards of the place where he was stationed, he would in all probability have succeeded in effecting his escape. A miracle palpable to all Tabrez would have been performed, and a new creed would have been established ; but he turned in the opposite direction, and hid himself in the guard-room, where he was immediately discovered, brought out and shot. His body was thrown into the ditch of the town, where it was devoured by the half- wild dogs which abound outside a Persian city. Bab possessed a mild and benignant countenance, his manners were composed and dignified, his eloquence was impressive, and he wrote rapidly and well. " It would appear that in the beginning of his career he did not wholly reject the established forms and doctrines of the Mahamadan faith, but be reduced these to proportions so small as to be equivalent to their annul- ment, and thus rendered his speculations acceptable to the multitude. As 45 BAB— BAD his disciples increased, so did his views enlarge. It is a strange circumstance that among those who adopted Bab's doctrine there should have been a large number of ' mulas' and even mustahlds, who held a high rank as expounders of the law in the Mahamadan church. Many of these men sealed their faith with their blood. Bab's notions did not contain much originality. Atheism, under the disguise of pantheism, was the basis of his principles. Every single atom in the universe, he said, was actually God, and the whole universe collectively was God; not a representative of or emanation from God, but God himself. Everything in short was God. Bab was God, and every living creature down to each lowest insect. Death was not real; it was only another form of divinity, if such language has any signification at all. Virtue has no existence, neither had vice ; they were necessarily wholly indifferent, as being portions or emanations of the God-head. Rights of property had no existence, excepting in the equal division of all things amoug the godly. But this was a fiction, the real doctrine being the reign of the saints, that is, of the Babis and their possession of the goods of the ungodly ; in other words, the non-Babis. It was the simplest of religions. Its tenets may be summed up in materialism, communism, and the entire indifference of good and evil and of all human actions. There was no antipathy, it was affirmed, on the part of the Babis, to Christians, or to the followers of any other creed except- ing Mahamadans, who as they slew Babis ought to be exterminated. " One of the proofs alleged against Bab's claim to a divine mission was the ungrammatical Arabic of his revelations, which could not consequently have descended from heaven. The Koran is regarded as a miracle of style and composition." {Shiel.) BADASHT— A village in Khorasan, Persia, 164 miles from Nishapur, 258 miles from Tehran and on the road between them, and 4 miles from Shahrud. The village is celebrated for the poisonous bugs which exist there. There is a post-house here, a small stream of water, and some gardens and cul- tivation. [Eastwick — Clerk.) BADBTJRI— A stream in the north of Khorasan, Persia, crossed on the north road from Mashad to Astrabad. It is so called from a severe wind which is said to blow on its banks. It drains into the Kalbash, which passes Jahjurm and Bostam. {Fraser.) BADJILAN— Lat. Long. Elev. 5,300. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on the south of the Musala Pass. It is situated in a forest of apple trees, for which it is celebrated. BADBABAD— A village in Yezd district, Persia, 2a miles from Yezd on the road to Ispahan. It occupies with its villages a considerable extent of ground, and is situated in a narrow barren plain of light, soft mould, intersected by numerous water-courses. (£. Abbott.) J BADRAE— A river of KhuzistSn, Persia, which rises in the Kebr Koh and runs through the plain of Kougitun, Cham, and passing the towns of Badra and Sesain unites with the Changolar. In summer and autumn it contains a small body of water. In winter, however, it is a considerable stream, and in December there is some difficulty in crossing it at the village of Badrae. (Layard.) 46 BAF— BAG BIPK— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in the Yezd district, Persia, 70 miles east of that town and 40 miles from Kirman. It contains some 700 houses and is situated towards the east side of a great plain, and is in every sense of the term an oasis in a small salt, sandy desert. Its water, which is sup- plied by 24 canals, is slightly salt, but palatable. It is remarkable for its groves of date trees, in the midst of which it stands, and which occupy a considerable space; yet scarcely any other tree grows. On its east side a few small hills rise out of the plain; on the west the moving sands are encroaching upon it, and have covered the once-cultivated lands. The sub-district of Bafk extends from east to west about 60 miles, that is, from the village Shetar to Chokaver, and north and south from Ariz to Nehu, about 63 miles. The climate is mild in winter, and intensely warm, but salubrious in summer. {K. Abbott.) BAFRAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A small walled village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 70 miles east of Ispahan. (K. Abbott.) BAFRU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Yezd district, Persia, some 40 miles west-north-west Yezd, and 4 or 5 miles from Mebut. {Goldsmidt.) BAFT— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Yezd district, Persia, situated 14 miles from Yezd. It is very fertile and is watered by a fine stream on which are numerous country houses, and it enjoys a fine temperature. {Christie.) BAFT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the province of Kirman, Persia, 60 miles south-south-east of that city : some supplies are procurable here. {Gibbons.) BAGH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, situated on the coast 25 miles from Bandar Dilam, and 20 miles from Bandar Beg. There is one well of good water here. There is a headland here called Cape Bagh, which is a very remark- able scarped cliff, slate color, red alternating, fluted up and down with horizontal marks along it. {Colvitte.) BAGHEK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 7 miles from Burshahr, containing 150 houses of the ' Pooladee' tribe, and paying a revenue of 150 toma ns. {Pelly.) BAGH-GUT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 28 miles east of Dasht. BAGH-I-FIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A garden in Irak Ajami, Persia, situate about 3 miles east of Kashan, celebrated for a beautiful stream of water, said to possess medicinal qualities, which flows through it. {Morier.) BaGH-I-MALIK— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain or district to the south of the Bakhtiarl mountains in Khuzistan, Persia, at the source of the Ab-i-zard, a tributary of the Jarahl or Kurdis- tan river. It is described as a beautiful and fertile district, with groves of oak and well-cultivated fields, principally of tobacco. In this plain are the ruins of the ancient city of Manganik. (Layard.) BAGHIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, north-west from Kirman on the road to Yezd. It is now a village of 60 or 80 houses, although the ruins with which 47 BAG— BAH it is surrounded testify to its former importance. There are a few trees and evidently abundance of " kanatf'' water, although but little cultivation. There is a very good caravanserae here, and also a post station. {Smith!) BAGH-I-ZAMAEtTD— Lat. Long. Elev. A royal garden in the valley of All, 10 miles from Demavand in Irak Ajami, Persia. (Morier.) BAHAMISHIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A branch of the Karnn river in Persia, which leaves the Hafar at about eight miles above Mahamrah, and running south-east on the east side of the island of Abadan falls into the Persian Gulf, 11 miles east of the Shat-ul- Arab. Its western point is in lat. 30°, long. 48°38'50"; its eastern in lat. 29°59'30", long. 48°44'30". Its length is about 45 miles, and it joins the sea by a good navigable channel, having in it near the sea from five to seven fathoms, and being about quarter of a mile wide. Bracks says that this, channel is now blocked up by a dam near the Hafar Canal. Except for this all authorities agree in regarding it as a fine navigable stream, used much by large native boats, in order to get to Mahamrah without entering the Shat-ul-Arab. The Euphrates steamer went up this river to Mahamrah. In September it is said to have little water in it, not more than five or six feet in some parts. The water of this river is said to be very wholesome. {Brucks — Chesney — Whitelock — Wray — Holland.) BAHIKLtJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A tribe of Persia, who were originally a section of the Shamlti, brought from Syria by Timur Lang. They were one of the seven Turkish tribes to whom Shah Ishmail owed most of his successes, and to whom in consequence he gave the name of Kizlbash. Morier mentions that some of the Baharlu are met with round Chawan near Urumi on Azarbljan, and Shiel, in his list of the tribes of Azarbljan, states that they have 2,000 houses in the province. {Malcolm.) BAHDIRUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 31 miles from Sabristan. It is described as a " large earthy-looking village of domes." {Goldsmidt.) BAHMEHI— Lat. Long. Elev. A large sub-division of the Kohgelu tribe in Khuzistan, Persia. It contains about 3,000 families, who occupy the mountains adjoining the JaniM, Garmsar, and the JaniM Sardsar. The residence of their chief is Kala Ala' near the source of one of the branches of the Jarahl. This tribe has about 2,000 excellent matchlockmen, and a small but very efficient body of horse- men. They are the most notorious robbers, and as ignorant and barbarous as any tribe in these mountains. The shedding of blood is carried to a lamentable extent among them the life of a man is no more valued than that of a sheep. They are treacherous and deceitful; with them no oath is binding, and no traveller, unless protected in the strongest way, should venture to go amongst them. — {Layard.) BAHMINABAD— Lat. Long. Elev An enclosed village in Khorasan Persia, on the high road to Mashad from Tehran, 100 miles east of Shahrtjd, 160 miles west of Mashad. Beyond it are extensive ruins of an old city of this name, part of which are stiU inhabited. — {Clerk.) 48 BAH— BAK BAHMZARI— A village in BBshahr district, Fars, Persia, containing 250 houses of the ' Hyat Dawoodee' tribe. It pays a revenue of 300 tomans. [Pelly.) BAHR-tJL-IREM— Lat. Long. Elev. A pleasure garden near Barfarosh in Mazandaran, Persia, formed by Shah Abbas. It consists of a pavilion built on an island in a small lake, containing many handsome rooms. The island bears several orange and other trees. The lake, or rather pond, abounds with wild ducks, weeds, and frogs. BAIRAM— Lat. Long. Elev, A village in Azarbijan, Persia, situated in the Suj Bolak district, 12 miles from the town of that name. It is a poor place wedged in the bottom of a very deep cleft, through which runs a stream of clear water. Below are gardens, but the houses are mere hovels. (Fraser.) BAIRAM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Laristan, Persia, 67 miles from Mogu. Bay, on a road to Shiraz by Lar, from which last it is 57 miles distant. The village is walled, and has some date groves ; water is procured from wells. {Pelly.) BAIRAM ABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A ruined fort in Azarbijan, Persia, in the valley of the Kizl Ozan, 50 miles below Miana. BAIRaMABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 75 miles from Kirman, on the road to Yezd, from which it is 152 miles distant. It is a very rising place, and owes its existence to the energy of the Vazir of Kirman. Fifteen years ago there was nothing here but a post-house in the middle of the desert ; now there is at least 1,000 well built houses, the centre of a cultivation seven or eight miles in diameter, and well supplied with water. Bazars are springing up in the town, and there is even an ice-house, and the whole place wears a thriving aspect. The post-house is very good, and there is a cara- vanserai. [Smith.) BAKARABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in Fars, Persia, 106 miles from Ispahan, 1 74 miles from Shiraz, a little to the west of the road. It is situated under rocky hills, and has trees and gardens. [Taylor.) BAKHTIGAN— See Daria-i-neyrlz. BAKHTIARI— A large tribe of Luristan, Persia, whose country is bounded north by the River Dizfulj south by an imaginary line drawn from Dehyfir in the plain of Ram Hormaz to Falat near Ktimishah on the opposite side of the mountains ; east they encamp in the immediate vicinity of Burojard in Feridun and Char Mahal, within two days' journey of Ispahan ; to the west they occupy the low hills and the upper part of the plains above Dizful, Shustar, and Ram Hormaz. The Bakhtiari tribes are divided into the Haft Lang and Char Lang sections. The tradition regarding this tribe is that they originally came from Sham (Syria) under one great chief, and took possession of the mountains which they now inhabit. A descendant of this chief had two wives, to whom he was equally attached. By one he was father of four children, and by the other he had seven. At his death the children of these two families formed the two divisions of four (Char) and 49 q, BAK seven (Haft) branches respectively. A quarrel soon ensued between them, and the feud was bequeathed to their posterity. It is certain that from time immemorial the greatest enmity has existed between the Haft Langs and the Char Langs, and although both are known as Bakhtiaris, these tribes seldom intermarry. Their places of winter residence (Garmsar) are now chiefly divided by the Karun ; their summer quarters (Sardsar) are not so well distinguished, but the tribes of Haft Lang very rarely encamp near those of the Char Lang. Should they approach, much blood- shed is usually the result. The Bakhtiaris are at present under the Governor of Ispahan, the Motamid-ud-Daolat, with the exception of the tribes of Sallak, Memiwand, and Zalaki, and a small part of the tribe of Moguvi, which being in the vicinity are under the immediate control of the Governor of Burujard. There are also other tribes subject to the Bakhtiaris which are usually classed under that denomination ; these are the Dinarunis, Janiki, Garmsars; the Janiki Sardsars and the Gundtizlu will be found described elsewhere. The following is a table of the Bakhtiari divisions : — Haft Lang. Families Families Tribes. Sub- divisions. of Tribes. of Great Divisions. Summer Residence. Winter Residence. ( " Seraswand Aliwand 1 Durkai < Bawadi \ 4,000 Char Mahal and part Baba Hadi [ of Bazuft. ShShl. I Alivar J Gallah Gashah Sallak Ba Hamedi Durkai - Eaki Mari Malmali Berjurvi Salachin . Sheini Ali Ladiwand Beliwand Mashmerdosi \ 3,000 Char Mahal and part Susan ' Surkh&b, An- Ushnagi of Bazuft. daku, Sbinbar and Gandagi Makoniragi Bakhfciyariwand Kiyurzi or Beidarwand. Ali Jemali Leruzeni Mah Sapatan ... Akili Jiveraw Sohrab ... Monjezi ( Bheikh Diooshi ■) Bakhtiyarwand ... J. Gaahtal Bramali } Ulaki 1,200 Mountains near Telat Near the sea coast Mai Ahmedi and Sesniran. north of Bushahr. Salak 2.000 Near Gilpaigan and Sapalak and Sila- Khonsar. khos. 50 JBAK Char Lang, Tribes. Kiyunurzi Suhuni Mahmud Salik Moguwi Mcmiwand and Zalaki. Samali Sub-divisiona. Mahomed Jaferi Papa Jaferi Pasonab Zul . . . Ariwand Arkul Berun Burburun Asisafdi Sheikh Tembi Karivand Istagi Vermahamed . . . Bowersat or Bersak Khojab Shungi Talbawand Matark Hamulah Keyash Zumstern Joberiz Ganj Aliwand ... Musawi Hurimi Bazaras Jangazi Musawimd Bajul Bawah Shemshiri Sbirazi Imari Duwisi Salak Chiwab ... Albushi Ghaja Boroguni Madiwar Muri Charm Tal Madevani Keimas Bhiyazi So wail Ku Gliolarn Joesi Asa Khahl Husami Terdeni Abdalwand Zencheguni Zalaki Busak Bosi Isawund Bu-Ishak Sharafwand Minjawi Saki Families Families of of Great Tribes. Divisions. -1 \ 1,000 10,200 J "1 • 1,500 V 1,000 '" - 1,000 J !■ 7,000 ■) 500 Summer Residence. Feridtln, part of Sa- palak and Bazuft, Zardabkoh and the mountains of Man- gasht. Bazuft and Zardah Koh Chehl Chasmah Feridun. Feridtln and near Buru- jird. Generally encamp with the Mahmud Salik. Winter Residence. Hallogau and plain of TGI. Gtllgir and Asonar, Sbumbar and An- daku. Mendizan and hills above the plain be- tween Shtistar and DizfQl. Part Kalah-i-Tul anp part near Btirttjird 51 BAK These tribes are engaged in constant blood feuds amongst themselves, and are moreover exposed to the jealousy of the Shah of Persia, should anv of them become or appear to be too powerful. When Layard visited these tribes the most powerful Chief was Mahamad Taki, and he had more or less command over the following tribes : — Janiki Garmsar „ Sardsar Kiyunurzi SuMml Bindiinl Mogiiwi Gunduzlu Dmaru.ni Tuber of Earn Bahmehi Feili Hormaz Men. 4,000 2,500 800 1,000 500 400 1,500 3,000 1,500 2,000 1,500 Total 18,700 men Of this number between 5,000 or 6,000 were horsemen, and the whole well armed with muskets and matchlocks. But this number represents that which he could have assembled only under the most favorable circumstances ; if opposed to other tribes he might possibly have been able to raise 15,000 men, but if opposed to Government he could scarcely have collected more than two-thirds of that number, except in a moment of popular excitement. In calculating the actual force which could be put in the field by the Bakhtiaris, it may be presumed that each family can produce at least one armed man, and indeed each family may be called on by the chief for the services of one person in his wars ; but it must be remembered that both for the internal defence of the country and for the actual cultivation of the soil and other necessary labors, a large portion of the male population will be unable to leave tbe tents. In the event of an external war, three-fourths of the males between the age of 16 and 60 could probably join the chief. The chiefs of these tribes have large herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, as well as many Arab mares and stallions of pure breed, with great numbers of horses of mixed breeds. The Bakhtiaris may be considered the most warlike of all the Persian tribes, and their loyalty to the Shah would seem to depend in a great measure on the personal idiosyncracies of their chiefs and the Shah himself. In matters of religion they are lax, but still they are outwardly Mahamadans. Their language is a dialect of the Kurdish, but still differing in many respects, and more particularly in the mode of pronunciation, from any of the other modifications of that tongue which are spoken by the different tribes extending along the range of Zagros. They are individually brave, but of a cruel, savage character ; they pursue their blood feuds with the most inveterate and exterminating spirit, and they consider no oath or obliga- tion in any way binding when it interferes with their thirst of revenge. They are also most dexterous and notorious thieves, and may be considered as the most wild and barbarous of all the inhabitants of Persia. 52 BAK The Bakhtiarls pursue a certain amount of traffic ; they exclusively supply KhtJzistan with tobacco from the Janiki; they also export a small quantity of grain ; and the Ispahan market is furnished during the summer with mutton, almost entirely from the Bakktiari flocks : the cherry sticks for pipes, which grow in profusion among their mountains, would also prove to them, if steadily pursued, a most lucrative line of traffic. Charcoal, gallnuts, gum- mastic, and the sweetmeat called 'gaz' form the only other exportable articles which their country affords. The Bakhtiarls say they are not of Persian origin. Their language would tend to contradict this last assertion, as it abounds in words of the old FarsI, and has great affinity to that of the Zends. Yet they have several customs which distinguish them from the modern Persians. Their national dance, in particular the Chapi, resembles altogether the Arnaoutika of the modern Greeks, which is generally allowed to be of ancient Greek origin. It is performed by an indefinite number of persons, who form themselves into a close front by holding each other fast by the girdle, and then swinging on sideways, mark the time by stamping the feet, which they alternately raise before them, with the toes upwards. They are led by a man who dances independently of the others, and who flourishes a handkerchief about in the air, and sings as he dances. Bakhtiar sounds so much like Bactria that this coincidence will bring to mind the Greek colony which was planted by Alexander there, and which DeGuignes says was driven from thence to the westward by the Tartars. At their burials instead of mourning they rejoice ; for they collect round the grave, where they sing and dance the Chapi to the sound of music. If the person to be buried has been killed in battle they rejoice the more, looking upon his death as ' halal/ — lawful ; and should he have died at a dis- tance from his home, they make up a temporary cenotaph, place his cap, his arms, and other effects upon it, and dance and rejoice around it. In Luristan they inhabit villages of about 20 to 30 houses, in difficult nooks of the mountains, wherever they can get water and grass ; some also live in caves. They pretend that they exercise all the hospitality of the wandering tribes ; and as an instance of it say, that among them an old woman would sell herself rather than permit her guest to want food. But other Persians say, that they are very unwilling to permit strangers to sojourn amongst them, and are not scrupulous in robbing a passenger of all that he may possess. Their most famous stronghold is about two stages from Dizful, called Diz for shortness, but Diz-i-mian-i-dizu in the Bakh- tiari language, and is represented as situated in the centre of a long, narrow defile which it commands. If they had opportunity and assistance, it is likely that they would throw off their allegiance to Persia; and the King is so well aware of that, that he keeps many families of them m separate villages about Tehran, as hostages for the good behavior of the rest, and retains 2,000 of them in his pay as Sarbaz. The Bakhtiarls were conquered by Nadar Shah, who afterwards took many of them into his service, in which they behaved, especially at the siege of Kandahar, with extraordinary bravery. (Layard.) BAKIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 20 miles north-east of that town. It is a large place in the midst of cultivation ; but, to judge from the great extent of rums, it must once have been far more considerable. (Gibbons.) 53 BAL— BAM BALA-RtJD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river which rises in the mountain of Savalan in Azarbijan, Persia, in four streams, which join at a small ruined castle, Kizl Kala, and traversing the plain of Mogu, loses itself in a marsh near the Caspian in the Bay of Kizl Agatch. Lebrun says, this river is also called the Basharatchai, and that the country near it bears this name also. {Lebrun) BALA-RtJD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, which rises in the mountains of Mangarah and Shahzada Ahmad in Luristan, and after flowing during its whole course of about 40 miles nearly parallel with the river of Dizful, it falls into that river about five miles below the town of that name. It is an insignificant stream in the summer months, but a most impetuous and dangerous torrent in spring. On the occasion when the Shah of Persia was crossing this stream with a large body of troops, the torrent came down suddenly, and at once swept off 50 horsemen, and the force was delayed for two days on its banks, during which time it was impossible to cross from one side to the other. [Rawlinson.) BALISTA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, two miles from the south shore of Lake Urumia. Part of the village is built on the slope of a mountain with walls, and forms a kind of fortress. The view is fine and open on the side of the lake. Most of the inhabitants are Kurds, and there are about 50 families of Kurds who speak Turkish. ( Wagner.) BALUKCHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, which rises on the Savalan Dagh, and falls into the Karasu after passing by Ardebil. [Morier.) BAM — Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Kirman, Persia, 140 miles south-east of Kirman. It is situated on a large and somewhat elevated plain between a range of snow-capped mountains at a considerable distance to the south, and low rocky hills a few miles off to the north. The old city, now the fort, is a mass of ruins, but the walls are in a good state of preservation, and the citadel, with its lofty white tower, is a picturesque and striking-looking object. Pottinger observes that until the expulsion of the Afghans, this was held to be the frontier town of Persia on the south-east. His description is now 60 years old, and he speaks of the ruins as testifying to the existence of a much larger place. Since he wrote it has been the scene of an international struggle, which, added to an earthquake, resulted in the almost utter destruction of the town within the walls. Nearly 30 years ago the Commander of the Shah's army besieged there the well known Agha Khan Mehlati, then a rebellious Governor of Kirman. The fort held out for more than a year against the royal troops. The shot marks in the walls prove the matter was in earnest. The modern town is built independently of the fortifications. Estimating the numbers of houses to be 2,500 and of inhabitants 10,000, not j' s th part live within the walls, none being allowed there but the garrison, their families, and a few vendors. There is one gate which leads by the main street and bazaar near to the citadel, and there are two other means of ingress and egress. There is a large irregular ditch outside, in conformity with the quadrangle, of which the extent is perhaps 500 yards for each face. The citadel appears to be partially built on natural 54 BAM rock, and is provided with a well of drinking water. The usual garrison is two companies of Infantry and a few Artillerymen. There is a good deal of cultivation and many gardens round Bam, and provisions of all kinds are abundant. The inhabitants are in no way behind those of other large towns in Persia in intelligence. Many trade and travel on the Indian road, but mostly via Bandar Abbas. Abbott says, this little fortress has been constructed with much care, and is probably one of the strongest places in Persia. It is nearly square, its southern face being about 600 paces, and the eastern 500 paces, in length. It has an outer line of wall and ditch, the former of which is in a crumbling condition. Within this rises a high rock, on which the citadel is built. The latter has a gate leading into it from the town on its southern side, and a small one on its north face opening into the plain. The district of Bam possesses about 15 villages, many of which have date trees, although these latter do not thrive so well as at Khubbes, where the climate is warmer. Besides grain, rice, and cotton, there is little else produced in the district. It is not nearly so fine a tract as the adjoining district of Nurmashir ; it extends east and west 35 miles, and from the mountains of Jamal Bariz on the south to Koh Sang Bure Kabute on the north, 21 miles. The military force of the district is estimated at 300 Sarbaz and 500 matchlockmen and 3 brass guns and a mortar. The oxen in this part of the country are of a small humped species, and are commonly used as beasts of burden : people also ride on them seated on a soft pad, and a rope is passed through the nostril, by which they are guided. ( Goldsmidt — Poltinger — Abbott.) BAMBIZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Yezd district, Persia, 96 miles from Ispahan, 105 miles from Yezd, on the road between them. It is situated on a glacis slope at the foot of the hills. It has no trees or gardens, and but very little cultivation, and has perhaps 80 or 100 houses. There is no sarae here. This is probably the same village as Bamiz. (Goldsmidt.) BAMIZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Yezd, Persia, 85 miles east of Ispahan. It is a desolate-looking place containing about 40 to 50 families. BAMPUR— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in the plains of Kirman, Persia, 392 miles fromKirman, 250 miles from Chaobar on the Makran Coast. It contains 400 to 500 houses, but, with the exception of the Governor's house and one or two other buildings, these are little better than Biloch huts. The fort is a conspicuous object built on a long, low, irregular mound. The higher or north side boasts the citadel, from which the walls run down in an irregular line from north to south. Provisions are good and abundant, and water is procurable from the neighbouring ravine. There is much cultivation about this place. Pottinger says, Bamptir is situated in an extensive plain on the summit of a high mound of earth, and is small and crowded with mud buildings. The town is composed of but a few wretched huts occupied by relations of the chiefs : the people live in huts in the plain, as their flocks and cultivation attract their attention. The district of Bampur produces grain in such abundance as to supply the neighbouring country. The force of the chief is 300 Cavalry, well armed and mounted, and 1,500 Infantry. Since Pottinger's dav, however, 55 BAN it has passed into the hands of the Persians. Kinneir says there is a road from Bampur to Sehkuha in Seistan, which is only 350 miles distant, 12 stages, through a waste with some jungle. If this information is correct, and I am endeavouring to have it tested, a light force could he thrown from the Makian to Herat without going through Afghanistan. [Goldsmidt — Poltinger.) BAND AHWAZ— Lat. Long L Elev. A dam across the river KartJn in Khuzistan, Persia. It was built on one of four ledges of sandstone which cross the river at this point for the purpose of keeping up the water to fill the canals for irrigation purposes. At the west end of it is an opening of about 40 yards broad, and through this (with the exception of the water which finds its way over the small places where the dam is worn by time or broken away) the whole of the river, here about 200 yards broad, rushes with a tremendous fall and velocity. This dam stayed the further course of the Euphrates, one of the steamers of Colonel Cbesney's expedition in 1836, but in March 1 842, Lieutenant Selby, of the Indian Navy, in the Assyria, passed safely through and pro- ceeded up the river to within a few miles of Shustar. (Layard — Chesney —Selby.) BANDAR APSATIN— Lat. 26°59'. Long. 53°17'17". Elev. A bay on the coast of Laristan, Persia, between Shewu and Nakhilu. There is no town or village here, but the bay affords good shelter in a north-wester in 4-j to 5 fathoms, and in a south-easter the water is quite smooth, the wind blowing over the land. In this bay is a small town called Tamba. (Brucks.) BAND AMlR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Kulbar district, Fars, Persia, north-east of Shiraz. It is a populous place, divided and undermined in several places by dams and sub- terraneous channels (kanats) for supplying wells with water. It takes its name from a dam (band) erected across the river Kur at this point by Azad-u- Daolah, a former prince, Governor of Fars, and the river is sometimes called by the same name. There is very extensive cultivation of rice in this plain. The Band, which gives its name to both the village and the river, deserves attention, from its being a specimen of the hydraulic art of the Persians. The river over which it is constructed runs in so deep a bed, that it is generally useless for the purposes of navigation ; and the object of the Band seems to be to give the stream a fresh and stronger impetus, to throw it into a more extensive bed, and thus to distribute it by minor channels into the adjacent cultivation. The Band has been built immediately upon the superior angle of what originally must have been a natural fall, and consists of a straight bridge of thirteen arches : to this bridge the river flows in a slow current; but immediately on passing through the arches it falls abruptly over the inclined wall. The principal art of the architect must have been exerted in the construction of this wall ; and although the whole work is going to decay, yet, considering the body of water which is constantly flowing against it, and the length of time it has existed (not less than seven hundred years), the principle of its construction must be a good one. [Morier— Malcolm— Kimieir—Ouseley.) 56 BAN BANDAE ABB1S— Lat. 27° 10' 35". Long. 56° 18' 48". Elev. A port on the east of Kirman, Persia, 198 miles south-east of Shlraz, 800 miles south of Kirman, 540 miles south-south-east of Yezd, 740 miles south- east of Ispahan, 1,000 miles south-east of Tehran. The town is walled and situated on a slope which approaches close to the sea ; the houses are few and wretchedly constructed, and the people are mostly lodged in huts. Its suburbs extend along the open sea-beach, and it is backed at a distance of about 15 miles by a range of lofty and apparently desolate country. It contains about 89,000 inhabitants, composed of Persians, Arabs, Kurds, a few Armenians and Bedouins. Behind the present town are some tombs of superior con- struction, but they are falling into ruins. To the west lie the debris of an extensive town, and among them the ruins of an English factory, which seems in the first instance to have been pulled down to prevent its being used as a point of attack by any hostile force. The present port of Bandar Abbas is destitute of any pier or other artificial improvement, and has only from two to three fathoms of water at a distance of two miles out, so that during the frequent south and south-east winds it becomes a lee-shore lashed by a heavy surf, rendering it necessary for craft to seek shelter under the islands of Hormaz and Kishm. A better and more sheltered position for a port lies about four miles to the west at the entrance of the Clarence Straits, which is said in former times to have been the site of a small port. Gamrun, a former name for Bandar Abbas, appears to have been a town of little importance until 1662, when Shah Abbas assisted by the English drove the Portuguese from the island of Hormaz and transferred its commerce to this port. Here, instead of being carried in ships to Basrah and the northern ports of the Gulf, a very considerable portion of the imports from India and Africa were landed and transported by means of caravans to the interior of Persia and the adjacent countries, so that Gamrun became for a time the emporium of Persia. The English, Dutch, and French had factories here. Merchants from all parts resorted to it, and it seemed destined to attain the former opulence and splendour of Hormaz, but its commercial career was far more brief. Towards the close of the 17th century the internal commotions and distracted state of Persia frequently interrupted the route for very long periods, and the current of trade became diverted to the north ports. It should still, however, be remembered that this route conducts by one of the natural passes into the heart of Persia : for when Bushahr a few years ago remained for some time in a disturbed state, commerce found its way again to this channel, and if Bushahr had not speedily been restored to peace, Bandar Abbas would very soon have recovered a considerable portion of its former importance. During the summer the heat is so oppressive, and the fevers which follow so dangerous, that it is only inhabited during winter, all but the poorest going in summer to Minab, a town 14 miles inland; but in winter it is the regular port for the landing of goods destined for Yezd, Kirman, Shiraz, and Ispahan, and the trade is even now not incon- siderable. Persian carpets; tobacco, and dried fruits form its exports, and piece goods, Indian cloths, and China-ware constitute its principal imports. The annual importation of these articles in 1827 was estimated at nearly £30,000. There is also a considerable trade in fish, which are caught in the Gulf, and its vessels export salt ; fruit and sulphur are brought from the mountains situated at a little distance in the interior to Maskat. 57 h BAN Pelly gives the following table of the imports and exports of Bandar Abbas : — IMPORTS FROM BOMBAY. Names oh Articles. Piece goods Ditto Ditto Cotton yarn Ditto Masulipatam Chintz Cashmere shawls ... Sugar ... ... Sugar-candy Alum ... Ammonia ... Ditto Iron roasting pans ... Kuttahindy ... ... Cocoanuts ... Steel ... ... Pepper, Indian ... Pepper, Java ... ... Ginger ... Tea Cinnamon China-ware ... Crockery Glass Cochineal Jedoa (drug) Tamarind, Guzerat Tamarind, Indian ... Paper and Books Haleila (drug) Cardamoms Iron Indigo ... Glass shades Zinc Cassia Pistula Cheshmizeh Coffee Oil China roots Tabasheer (drug) Bice Tin Copper Turmeric Ditto Camphor Preserves Khosroodar (drug) Twine Untwisted silk thread Nails ■■{ Indigo Ammonia IMPOETS FROM KURRACHEE. 58 Quantities, 2,164 packages. 460 bales. 220 boxes. 770 packages. 177 bales. 86 boxes. 7 packages. 9,507 bags. 5,606 casks. 116 „ 5 „ 41 bags. 14 candies. 61 bags. 86 „ 161 casks. 639 bags. 236 „ 193 „ 2,104 boxes. 1,128 „ 171 „ 30 „ 9 „ 6 „ 20 bags. 9 boxes. 348 baskets. 25 boxes. 1,228 baskets. 17 bags. 1,612 pieces. 15 packages. 1,052 number. 358 pieces. 30 baskets. 31 bags. 21 „ 12 dubbas. 20 casks. 9 boxes. 4 casks. 1,387 bags. 325 pieces. 54 „ 34 baskets. 59 bags. 3 boxes. 15 „ 28 bags. 26 packages. 750 lbs. 1 cask. 486 packages. 293 „ BAN Names op Amicles. Leather Patau Hides Oil Shawls, Cashmere Chintz Eice Sugar-candy Sugar Cheshmizeh (drug) Kondor (drug) Piece goods Ginger Jedoa (drug) Dry limes Ammonia Oil Alum Tin Coffee Pepper Eice Gum Mastic Almonds Dry roses Madder roots Raisins Kishmish Carpets Sulphur Walnuts Asafoetida Down (Kork) Bozghoon (dye) Ashtorak (gum) Tallow Asparagus Pistachio nuts Cotton Wool Cummins eed Silk, raw Lead. Gram Pulse Saffron Annah (drug) Piece goods (Yezdy) Opium Plums (aloo) Tobacco IMPOSTS PROM MASKiT. IMPORTS PROM JEDDA. Quantities. 125 packages. 750 pieces. 23 dubbas. 1 parcel. 1 box. 190 bags. Ill casks. 175 bags. 2 „ 3 baskets. 660 pieces. 6 bags. 5 „ 1,175 maunds of 9 : 3 boxes. 12 dubbas. 6 bags. 22 pieces. 14 bags. 245 „ 625 bags. 1,910 maunds of 9 lbs. EXPORTS TO INDIA. . . . 71,984 maunds of 9 lbs. ... 9,590 „ ... 147,880 ... 7,189 loads of 20 mds. 7,156 maunds of 9 lbs. ... 3,125 pieces. 2,680 maunds of 9 lbs. 783 loads of 20 mds. 4,395 packages. ... 5,002 maunds of 9 Bis. ... 1,652 482 45 skins. 248 maunds of 9 His. ... 2,530 ... 10,245 bags of 9 maunds. ... 34,805 maunds of 9 Bbs. ... 18,572 ... 1,554 360 854 loads of 20 mds. 65 ... 29,900 miskals. 66 maunds of 9 Bis. 46 packages. ... 107 cases. 1,938 maunds of 9 fts. 6,658 bags of 5 maunds. This statement is derived from good authority ; but Pelly is of opinion that all the items are understated, and that the actual trade of Bandar Abbas 59 BAN may be about from 25 to 30 per cent, in excess of that shown in this statement. In addition to the above, he also states in .a report on Bushahr that the following are exported from Bandar Abbas to Bushahr, viz. : — "One hundred and fifty grindstones, value Ks. 200 ; henna leaves 1,000 tabriz maunds, value Rs. 500 ; minoo indigo 1,000 tabriz maunds, value Rs. 11,200." Bandar Abbass seems to commend itself as the spot most suited for an emporium of trade in the Persian Gulf. Sir John Malcolm reported in its favor in preference to Bushahr, the only drawback to it being its undoubt- ed unhealthiness, and Colonel Lewis Pelly is also very much in favor of it, stating his opinion in several interesting reports to Government. In one of these he says : — " I have noticed that Bandar Abbas has been somewhat decried as a port ; but I am of opinion that it is the point where trade coming to and from a vast area of Southern Central Asia naturally meets the sea. At present its trade is said to be in a partially abnormal condition, owing to its following a route which, if Bushahr were less interfered with, would not fall to Abb s. For instance, Bandar Abbas, in some degree, supplies the Shiraz market ; and this although the road thither is twice as long as from that town to Bushahr, besides being .less safe. . In its normal condition, perhaps, the proper sphere of Bandar Abbas would be along the Yezd and Kirman routes to points found along a line extending from Farah, through Herat, Ghayn, Tun, Tabas, Mashad, Nishapur, and so to Tehran. The Bandar Abbas trade should, in brief, be a central one, meeting the Karachi trade vid Kandahar on its eastern flank, the Russian trade of the Oxus and Caspian on its north, and the Tabrez and Bushahr trade on its western side. No doubt a large area in the region thus described is at present comparatively desert ; while those portions of it known politically, such, for instance, as the states of Herat, Khiva, and Bokhara, are poor consumers. Still the total area to be supplied is so extensive that even an infinitesi- mally small trade per 10 square miles would endow Bandar Abbas with a rich commerce. Moreover, some of the states referred to were once com- paratively wealthy, and still contain the soil, the positions, and the men for becoming so again. Political circumstances, and the slow permeation of thought through those regions, may any day give them an impulse as wel- come in the commercial, as it may prove startling in the political world. " The advantages of Bandar Abbas as a port for the supply of the markets under notice may be compared with those of Bushahr, as follows : "Bandar Abbas is less interfered with by authority; the dues are more moderate, and are levied without needless delay or injury to goods ; ab- sence of octroi ; no subsequent governmental demand, unless at Yezd, where it is moderate, readily levied, and whence trade moves on direct to the capital (while trade at Bushahr sustains e.n route not only octroi, but a heavy demand and delay at Shiraz, and a third demand at Ispahan) ; an easier and more level road, an abundant supply of camels instead of a limited supply of mules ; each camel carrying 450 lbs. against a mule's 340 lbs., and costing one-third less ; avoidance of delay and risk incident to sea passage up the Gulf against the prevailing Nor-Westers. 60 It ' BAN r The disadvantages of Bandar Abbas are : — 1st. — That its town and road are considered less safe. But this objection is mitigated by the largeness of caravans. An Abbas Kafila may number from 1,000 to 2,000 camels. In Bushahr it is rare to see 100 mules in the same Kafila. " 2nd. — That the distance from Bandar Abbas to Tehran vid Yezd is longer than that of Bushahr from Tehran vid Ispahan and Shiraz. But that the Yezd road, as before mentioned, is easier and less interfered with ; hence less delayed. " Looking forward to the possible development of Persian and Central Asiatic trade from the Gulf line, I should say that, compared with its area, it must always be small. But that the area for the supply of which the Persian Gulf is the only continuous ocean line is so immense that the trade naturally seeking its waters, would, if not stifled by authority, rapidly increase, and be very considerably regarded as a whole." Bandar AbbSs is farmed to the Sultan of Maskat. (Pellg.) BANDAR DILAM— Lat. 30° 1' 50". Long. 50° 12' 15". Elev. A small port on the Persian Gulf, 31 miles north-west of Bandar Reg, 62 miles Bushahr, 67 miles Behbahan. It is now only a small trading and fishing village, though once a place of trade belonging to the Dutch, the remains of whose factory are still pointed out. The water here is indifferent, and at the distance of a mile from the town. The inhabitants carry on a slight trade with Basrah and Bahreim. The harbour here is only suitable for boats. It is under the Government of Bushahr, and is described as a thriving little place of 2,000 inhabitants. The centre part of the town is occupied by a large enclosure or fort, the residence of the Ketkhuda. The south part is filled with a fishing popula- tion, while the north half is full of traders. The fishermen here using the drag net catch great numbers of seyr fish. These they split and dry and send to Basrah by sea, and to the villages round on donkeys. The traders import iron, sugar, tea, and cloth from Bushahr and Koweit, and dates from Basrah, and forward them by caravans to Behbahan, while they bring down bales of cotton, wool, ghee, dried fruits, and forward them to the Gulf towns. Ophthalmia is the prevailing disease here. There is very little fever and no small-pox. In fact, the town would be very healthy if it were not for ophthal- mia. The water from the wells is good and abundant. The exports of Dilam are as follows : — Wheat and barley, value ... 30,000 kerans to Basrah, Koweit and Lingah. Wool „ ... 100,000 „ to Bushahr and Koweit for India. RogunChirag „ ... 10,000 „ Grapes and raisins „ ... 20,000 „ to Koweit and Basrah. Kogun „ ... 30,000 „ The imports are : — Piece-goods, value ... 150,000 kerans from Bushahr and Koweit. Sugar „ ... 50,000 „ Tea „ ... 10,000 „ Dates „ ... 50,000 „ from Basrah. These imports go to Behabhan and Ram Hormuz. The customs receipts may be from 15,000 to 20,000 kerans per annum on both imports and exports together. (Brucis — MonteitA — Pelly — Colville.) 61 BAN BANDAR KALAT— See Sheww. BANDAR MALUM— Lat. 26° 38' 20". Long. 66" 9' 20*. Elev. A port on the Laristan Coast of Persia near the Clarence Straits. It is a small town under Cape (Ras) ShaoK, and has a trade in salt. It has about 300 inhabitants. The bank on the Persian side forming' the channel into Bassadore begins to shoal off this place. (Bruch.) BANDAR MASHtJR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the coast of Khdzistan, Persian Gulf, west of the Hindiyan, and near Khor Musa, where a branch of the Jarahi finds its way into the sea. It is a miserable place, half in ruins, built on a mound apparent- ly artificial. The number of permanent inhabitants does not exceed 300 : besides these there is a small floating population of merchants from the Gulf towns and their agents. Only a few of the natives speak Arabic, and they dress like the Persians, but seem to be of a mixed breed. Prom 40 to 50 "bugalows," of about 60 tons each, arrive here yearly, bearing coarse cloth, corn, and dates from Bushahr, Koweit, and Basrah, and carry away wool. In March there is usually abundance of rain water to the south-east of the town, but in the hot weather the inhabitants depend upon wells, which furnish only brackish water. The anchorage is about three miles from land, bearing south by west from the town. Not- withstanding this, Bandar Masbur is the port of Chab Arabs. Ophthal- mia is the prevailing disease here. The amount of duty collected on the exports and imports here may be about 40,000 kerans, or something less than Rs. 20,000, and it is paid into the treasury at Shustar. The exports from this place are — wool to the value of Rs. 100,000, shipped to Koweit or Bushahr for ultimate transhipment to India ; grain, mainly wheat and barley, Rs. 22,000 ; rice from the Jarahi and Ram Hormuz fields, Rs. 10,000; rogun for Koweit, Rs. 5,000. Some 10,000 sheep are shipped annually for Basrah and Koweit. Grain pays an export duty of 32 kerans per kareh. Wool „ „ 32 „ per 1,000 lbs. weight. Rogun » i, § keran per dulba. Sheep „ „ i „ each. The imports are— piece-goods, value 50,000 kerans, paying a duty of 2 kerans per 20 pieces of 10 yards each; dates 10,000 kerans, paying 5 kerans per kareh. (Layard — Colville — Petty.) BANDAR REG— Lat. Long. Elev. A small town in Pars, Persia, 32 miles north-west of Bushahr and75 miles south of Behbahan, situated close to the shores of the Persian Gulf. It is surrounded by a miserable mud wall flanked with round towers, on which are placed three or four useless guns. This was once the stronghold of the celebrated pirate Mtr Mohana, who was once the terror of the Gulf. "When the place was taken by the English the fortifications were razed; since which time it has entirely fallen from its ancient importance, though it has continued to be the residence of the principal Arab Sheikh on the coast. It contains 100 houses of Zoab Arabs, and pays a revenue of 1,200 tomans. Grain and animals for slaughter are procurable here, and the water is good from wells. 62 BAN Bandar Reg is very inferior to Bandar Dilam in size and importance* It imports only for its own wants and for those of its neighbourhood. It is not a port for any route into the interior. Its trade may be somewhat as follows :— Exports. Wheat and barley 20,000 kerans in value. Wool 10,000 „ „ Imports. 100 karehs of dates and piece-goods to the value of 10,000 kerans, also a few miscellaneous articles for home consumption. The gross of the customs derived from this port may be 10,000 kerans. (Monteith — Malcolm— Layard — Jones — Petty.) BANDAR SHtJS A— Lat. Long. Elev. A bay on the coast of Kirman, Persia, 12 miles from the point off Kishm. To the west it is fronted by two or three rocky islands, on the largest of which there is a reservoir for water. Inside there is a fathom and a half, and two fathoms at low tide : native vessels take shelter here in blowing weather. The village of Sbusa, where a few cattle and poultry may be procured, is two miles further to the west. (BrucJcs.) BAND-I-FARIDUN— A dam in Khorasan, Persia, six miles north-west of Kalandarabsd, which is near Mashad. Here a beautiful stream comes wandering among swampy and reedy meadows down to a pass between rocks 1,000 feet high. Nature had provided a leap for the water of some 50 feet, and here a former king built a stone embankment across. It is built of solid masonry of stone and burnt brick, united by cement, which has become like iron, and is 100 paces long and 10 broad. Against this causeway the stream rose to a certain height and then found a passage down several tunnels of masonry, and so flowed out at the bottom of the embankment to fertilize the fields in the direction of Faridun and other villages. This important work became dilapidated in the course of ages, but it was repaired by the Prince Governor of Khorasan's orders. (Hastwick.) BAND-I-KAISAR— See Band-i-Shahzada. BAND-I-KIR— Lat. 31° 49'. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, at the spot where the Karun and Dizful rivers and the Ab-i-Gargar canal meet, 30 miles below Shustar. The village is walled and contains a population of ,600 souls. Naphtha is found in the vicinity of this place. (Layard.) BAND-I-SHAHZADA— Lat. Long. Elev. A dam built across the Karun river in Khuzistan, Persia, above Shustar, by which the waters of that river are divided into two branches, the other being known as the Ab-i-Gargar. It is constructed of massive blocks of hewn stone firmly and closely united. In the autumn it is perfectly dry and may be traversed on foot, six narrow openings being left for the passage of the water. It was formerly called the Band-i-Kaisar, but having been repaired by Prince (Shahzada) Mahamad All Mirza, it has since retained the above name. {Layard) BAND CMAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Irak Ajami, Persia, crossed on the road from Tehran to Hamadan. (Morier.) 63 BAN— BAR BAN LEILAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A division of Kurdistan, Persia, subject to the Chief of Sehna, and to the east of that place. It has the appearance of a plain broken into hills, with a line of hills running through it. It is reckoned very cool during the hot season. {Rich.) BANNA— Lat. Long. _ Elev. A division of the Sehna district of Persian Kurdistan, situated to the north- west of Sehna. It is sub-divided into four or five smaller divisions, and is governed by members of the same family, chosen, however, by the Vali of Ardelan. {Rick.) BANPtJR. See Bampur. BANVIZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Persia, 8 1 miles from Ispahan, on the road to Yezd. It is described as a desolate-looking village of some 40 or 50 families. {Abbott.) BAN ZARDAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A fortress in Kirmanshah, Persia, immediately overhanging the town of Zohab. This is the stronghold of Holwan to which Yezdigird, the last of the Sassanian Kings, retreated after the capture of Ctesiphon by the Arabs, and it is a noble specimen of the labour which the monarchs of those ages bestowed upon their royal buildings. It is formed by a shoulder projecting west from the mountain of Dalahugird upon three sides by an inaccessible scarp, and defended upon the other, where alone it admits of attack, by a wall and dry ditch of colossal dimensions drawn right across from one scarp to the other, a distance of above two miles ; the wall is now in ruins, and the debris has fallen down into the ditch at foot, but still presents a line of defence of no ordinary description. The wall is flanked by bastions at regular intervals, and if an estimate may be formed from a part of it which still preserves something of its original character, it would seem to have been about 50 feet in height and 20 in thickness; the edge of the scarp has also been faced all round with a wall of less dimensions. The hill itself is elevated very consi- derably above the plain of Zohab, perhaps 2,000 feet; the slope from the plain is most abrupt, and it is everywhere crowned by a scarp varying from 300 to 500 feet. The north side of the hill is higher than the south, and the table- land therefore of the fort, containing about 1 square miles, presents an inclined surface throughout. At the north-east angle, where the scarp rises in a rocky ridge to its highest point and joins the mountain of Dalahu, there is a pass which conducts into the fort, the ascent rising gradually from the shoulder : the whole way from the town of Zohab is easy enough, but the descent on the other side into the table-land of the fort is by a most preci- pitous and difficult gorge. A wall has been thrown across the jaws of the pass ; towers have been erected on either side to support it ; and somewhat lower down the defile, where the jutting rocks nearly meet, two strong castles have been built opposite to each other, which command the narrow entrance and render it quite secure against attack. Altogether this fortress may be considered to have been perfectly impregnable in an age when artillery was unknown. It is also known by the name of Kala-i-Yezdijard. {Rawlmson.) BARAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the coast of Laristan, Persia, 3 miles south-south-east of Taurie It contams about 200 inhabitants of the ' Nussoor 3 tribe. (Bmch.) 64 BAR BARANDAZ— Lat. Long-. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, Persia, said to form the west boundary of Persian Kurdistan. (Wagner.) BARBARI— A village in Azarbijan, Persia, situated on the banks of the Jagatu river. The larger part of the population is composed of Nestorians, the minority being formed by Armenians and Chaldean Catholics. ( Wagner.) BARDISTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A seaport on the Dashti coast of F&rs, Persia. The Khans are taking great care to improve it. Many of the people of Kongun have settled here. {Petty.) BARDISTAN— Lat. 27° 49' 30". Long. 52° 2' 5". Elev. A cape on the coast of the Persian Gulf. (JBruc&s.) BARDISTAN— Lat. 27° 41'. _ Long. 51° 52' 30". Elev. A reef on the coast of Fars, Persia, near the boundary of Laristan. It extends from Monakila to longitude 51° 52' 30", and south as far as latitude 27° 41' north. It is dry in many parts at low water. It is formed of hard sand and rocks, and is dangerous to approach in the night under 10 fathoms, as it shoals quickly. Within that depth the gap mentioned by McClure is very small, and may have filled up since his time. In a north-wester, if you wish to anchor, you should do so in the tail of the reef with the following bearings, where you will lay sheltered : — Centre hammock of Kenn north 26° west, or a little open to the east of Funnel Hill ; square tower knob on the deep gap of high land north 10° west; Battunah Tower near the beach north 3° east, true bearing in five fathoms ; or, if you like, you may run further in on the bear- ing of the latter ; but this is the best place " to weigh from in case of a south-easter coming on, as you may run out south-west or west by south from it until you deepen your water by crossing the bank. (Brucks) BAREKI— A village in the Bushahr district of Fars, Persia, 6 miles from Tangistan. It has 200 houses of Barekls, and pays 600 tomans revenue. {Petty.) BARFAROSH— Lat. 36° 33'. Long. 52° 51'. Elev. A town in Mazandaran, Persia, 30 miles west-east San, 98 miles west-east Tehran, east Amol, and 2 miles from the banks of the Babal. It is situated in the midst of a flat country, about 12 miles from the mountains and a like distance from the sea-shore, and is surrounded on all sides by cultivation of rice, sugar, and cotton ; it is built amidst tall forest trees, and as the houses are small and stand in separate groups, it is diffi- cult to believe oneself in a large town and impossible to guess its extent from a hasty observation. At present it is said to contain about 12,000 houses, and is divided into 32 quarters. It possesses 16 or 17 'madrissahs' and several small caravanseraes, besides those adjoining the bazars. Barfarosh is still the chief commercial town of Manzandaran from which the others principally derive their supplies, and from which the productions of the country are exported to the neighbouring provinces. From Astrabad the returns are in soap, felts (nummuds), and horse cover- ings (jhools), manufactured by the Turkmans. From Tehran are received British manufactures, and those of the interior of Persia, prints from Ispa- han, velvets from Kashan, and great quantities of dried fruits from the neighbourhood of Hamadan. To Ghllan a great deal of rice and sugar is sent from all parts of the coast in large boats, a considerable 65 i BAR— BAS portion of the former being in transit for Tabrez and the interior through Enzeli: the returns are in silk and European goods. The trade with Russia passes through the Mashad-i-Sar, the port of Barfarosh, where there is a custom house. The prosperity of this town appears to have gradually declined since it ceased to be wholly a city of merchants, but the great and immediate cause of its present ruinous condition was the plague, which spread all over the southern and western coasts of the Caspian, and the number of people who died at Barfarosh from the accounts kept by the Mulas was estimated at about 80,000. The streets, which in Fraser's time were broad and neat, are now filthy, broken up, and in execrable repair. The bazaars, which are described by Eraser as extending for a mile, and by far better than those of Ispahan, con- sisting of substantially built shops and kept in excellent repair, now exhibit a melancholy contrast to this eulogium a few minutes walk takes the traveller through all that remains. Only part is roofed, and that is full of holes and falling to decay. From the line of shops branch off two or three caravanserais, chiefly occupied by merchants of whom there are about 25 carrying on trade with Russia and interior, besides about 100 other petty traders who are mere shop-keepers. Altogether the bazaars now contain from 5 to 600 shops, of these not more 200 are well supplied, and those chiefly with articles of local consumption and manufacture, while a few are furnished with British and Russian goods. The whole bazaar at present extends about one-fourth mile, and is generally pretty well thronged. The legitimate annual revenue of the town is about £900, but gentle squeez- ing is said to have the effect of raising it to double that sum. The Babil river at Barfarosh is crossed by a bridge of masonry of eight arches in excellent repair. The population of Barfarosh was estimated by Fraser at 200,000 souls, living in 36,000 houses ; but as at present there are only 12,000 houses inhabited, it is probable that the population is not more than 60,000 at the outside. It is now governed by a royal prince. (Fraser — Todd — Holmes — Ouseley — Stuart.) BARKEHDIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Laristan, Persia, 30 miles from Lingar and 85 miles from Lar. There is a caravanserae near this.- It is situated in a desert, and there are no supplies, and the only water is from reservoirs. (Jones.) BARtJBAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, situated under the hills about 10 miles from Khaf near the road to Herat. ( Clerk.) BASSADORE— Lat. 26°39'10"; Long. 55°22'; Elev. A station on the island of Kishm in the Persian Gulf, situated at its north- west point. It is situated on a rising and plain spot of ground, the surface of which is generally rocky and stony, and elevated in its lowest part about twenty feet above the sea. From the rocky and precipitous nature of the shore, and there being no higher ground but at the distance of several miles, it is a prominent and airy situation, exposed to all and especially the prevailing winds from north-east and west. From the natural declivity towards the point, it ib in some places low, which appear liable to dampness in the rainy season. This place was once a flourishing Portuguese settlement, and the rums of the town are still in existence. In 1821 the force stationed for keeping down the pirate tribes was removed here from Sallack, but was with- drawn in 1823 ; after this it was the head-quarters of the squadron of the 66 BAS Indian Navy in the Gulf. There is a tolerable hospital here and some store- houses ; also some houses occupied occasionally by the commanders of the vessels stationed here. There is a small bazaar and middling supplies. The place is the most healthy on the island of Kishm, but far from being a desir- able station. There seems to be a difference of opinion as to the supply of water here. Captain Remon says ; — " the position is destitute of fresh water, all the wells, which are numerous in the Arab settlement which formerly existed here, being brackish ; and from the fact of there being several re- servoirs for preserving rain-water, it may be considered doubtful whether the wells are good for more than a short time after the rainy season." Major Wilson does not agree in this opinion, saying that "the senior officer of the Navy who had been there several hot seasons dug four wells, which with a little cleaning yielded good water throughout the year, and there seems no reason to doubt that more wells might be dug in the same neigh- bourhood with good effect." Of the two sides of the position washed by the sea, that on the west cannot be approached by ships on account of the shallowness of the water, and it is only accessible to boats at highwater, a considerable mud-flat extending in that direction dry at low- water. The north side contains good anchorage ground, where ships and boats can lay well sheltered; the former about a quarter of a mile off shore, in the harbour formed in the channel between the Kishm and Persian shores, and a bank close off Bassadore Point, dry at low- water; it is, therefore, considered a safe commodious anchorage for a large number of vessels. The landing place is also on the north shore, but it is rather an indifferent one, the sea receding some distance over a muddy bottom, and at high-water the rocky shore making the landing difficult when any swell prevails. Captain Bruck's instructions for entering the anchorage of Bassadore are as follows : — " To go into Bassadore from the southward with a fair wind, after the Great Tomb bears south-south-east half east, steer over the flat north-west by north to north north-west if in a large ship ; and while the tomb is in sight, keep it south south-east until Bassadore Point bears north-east half east; then steer, keeping it a little open on the starboard bow. If you deepen to eight or nine fathoms, edge over to the northern bank until you begin to shoal again, keeping a good look-out for the beacon on the point of the dry part of the southern bank, and distant about thirteen hundred yards from the point. You may round this at any distance from a cable-length to a quarter of a mile, when haul in for the anchorage abreast of the hospital, or a little above it, in seven fathoms. You should be careful to be ready to anchor immediately you are across the gut, which has twelve to sixteen fathoms in, and is immediately without the anchoring ground. " In crossing the flat from the Great Tomb, there is a remarkable notch in the highland of the Persian coast, which, if seen, is an excellent mark, by keeping it north by west half west by compass, until Bassadore Point bears north-east half east, when proceed as above. " If coming from the southward, with a strong south-easter, cross the flat close, as above directed, being careful not to come under three fathoms until you get Bassadore Point north-east, and the highest hammock east by north, when haul your wind and stand to the northward, until the point bears about east by north, and you shoal to five fathoms on the north bank, when 67 BAS work between it and eight or nine on the south side, until round the beacon, when anchor as before directed. " To sail into Bassadore from the northward, after passing Lingah with a fair wind, steer about east by north to east-north-east, until Bassadore Point is seen, when steer for it attending to the directions given above. When coming from the southward, the soundings in the channel are from eight to three and a half fathoms, until you approach Bassadore when they deepen as before described. " There is another passage along the island of Kishm, and within the shoal part of the Bassadore flat, by keeping along shore in four to six fathoms until the large hammock bears north 73° east, true bearing, and Bassadore Point north 12° east true, when steer across the bank west by north or west by north half north until you deepen over it, or the notch on the Persian coast bears north by west half west, when proceed as above directed. I would not recommend this channel, except in cases of chase or other necessity, unless to a person well acquainted with it. " (Bemon — Wilson — Taylor — BASHI— Lat. 28°3910/ Long. 51°6'10j" Elev. A small village on the coast of Fars, Persia, a few miles south of Bushahr. (Bruefo.) BASHIAB— Lat. 26°487 ;" Long- 5 3° 15 '20/ Elev. An island in the Persian Gulf, situated 9 miles off the coast of Laristan opposite Nakhilu. It is 12 miles long by 2 \ miles broad. It has 9 villages, contains 425 men of the ' Abiisemate tribe/ and is subject to the Shekh of Nakhilu. The principal village is Girut at the south-east end and Sazal at the north-east, of which the above is the latitude and longitude. The outer- parts of the island are rocky, and loose stones occur except at the west end which contains good soil. The centre is a valley with good soil and cultivated. The inhabitants are civil but great cheats. Good water and some few supplies are procurable. There is a fine pearl fishery round the island. It is separated from the main land by a channel of considerable width, particularly at its west end from which runs along ledge of rocks. It it said that rocks lie off its south-east end. The anchorage of the east end is well sheltered from north-westers, and that at the north-east part from both north-westers and south-easters ; but the ground is bad, and it will always be prudent to lay with a long scope of cable out. " The straits of Bashiab are formed by the islands of Bashiab and Shit- war and the main. They are nearly 9 miles wide at the west part and 5^ between the spit off the north-east of Bashiab and Nakhilu, its narrowest part ; they are 14 miles in length, and have soundings from 32 to 5 fathoms • m mid-channel the soundings are from 32 to 16 fathoms. The soundings at the distance of 1 mile from the shore are quite regular, and in no part is there danger outside of five fathoms, which is outside the small bank that runs along the side of Bashiab. On the tail of the spit running off the north-east of Bashiab, there are 4 fathoms of water and it shoals gradually on it, until 8 miles near the shore to two-thirds of a mile, when it shoals to 2 fathoms. No other danger exists in these five channels." (Bruch— Taylor— Kmneir — Morier — Chesney.) * BASHKAN— A village in Fars Persia, 56 miles from Abnshahr on the road to Firozabad from which it is distant 48 miles. It is a small place with a mud fortalice 68 YAB— SAB and a few date trees around. Plane trees are numerous, and fuel can be had in any quantity from the nomades of the hills near. Cattle for con- sumption and draught are not very numerous. Abundance of good water is supplied from wells, springs, and brooks. {Jones.) BASHKARD— Lat. Long. Elev. A sub-division of Kirman, Persia, which commences 3 miles south of Kehnu, and extends to Bandar Abbas, 111 miles. It is a mountainous tract. {Abbott.) BASHRUGAH. A town in an oasis in the great salt desert of Persia, east of the road from Tun to Tabas, said to contain 30,000 souls. No European is known to have visited it. {Chesney.) BASHT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the province of Ears, Persia, 72 miles on the road from Behbahan to Shiraz, situated in a small plain of the same name. Basht is the residence of the chief of the Bui division of the Kohgilu tribe, and resembles the castles of the old feudal barons in Europe. It consists of the chiefs fort enclosed by high walls and flanked with turrets. All around are groups of the habitations of his vassals, who live under the shadow of his protection, and furnish him with the means of resisting his enemies. Water is procured from a small stream here. A few supplies of grain and sheep are procur- able, and fuel can be obtained in plenty from the hills. {Jones.) BASTEK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Laristan, Persia, 53 miles from Lingah on the coast on the road to Shiraz by Ahl. It has a strong enclosure, but with no grass. Supplies are procurable, and water also from reservoirs, kanats, and springs. {Felly.) BAVUNAT— Lat. Long Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, situated north of Shiraz. It possesses many gardens and abundance of fruit, especially raisins. Good wooden spoons are manufactured here. {Petty.) BAWI— A tribe of Arabs who are tributary to the Chab Shekh, and inhabit both banks of the Karun above and below Ismailayah in Khuzistan, Persia. Their sub-divisions are as follows :— Motarideb. El Awud. Newaser. El Zerkhan. El Wasseyin. Beni Khaled. El Warumi. El Omur. ElAjajat. El Erkitber. _ El Jabbarat. El Shama Kiyeh. El Mosabbeb. El Berasbideh. Ali Bu Haji. El Hardan. It is a large and powerful tribe, and its chief considers himself more under the protection than under the absolute authority of the Shekh of the Chab Arabs ; still he is able to resist him if supported by his own tribes. They can turn out about 1,000 horsemen, and perhaps 2,000 footmen, but without good weapons. They are notorously treacherous, and frequently appear in arms against the Shekh of the Chab Arabs. {Layard.) BAYEN KOH— Lat. ^ Long. Elev. A village in Ardelan, Persian Kurdistan, 15 miles north of Sehna. It is in the district of Hasanabad, is situated in a valley at the north foot 69 BAZ— BEH of the Allahtl Khuda pass, and is described as a large but filthy village. It is on the main road from Ispahan to Tabrez. [Rich.) BIZARGAON— Lat. _ Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, east of Bayazld. It is the last Persian village on this road. BAZIR KHANI— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of hills in Ardelan, Persian Kurdistan, apparently to the north- west of Sehna. They run north and south, and are said to terminate in a plateau of the same elevation as Hamadan to which there is a road over them from Sfllimania, there being scarcely any descent to that place. I imagine this name must be applied to a portion of the main Kurdistan range, dividing Ardelan and Irak from Sulimania and Kirmanshah. {Rich.) BAZtTFT— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Luristan, Persia, consisting of a well-wooded plain, abound- ing in ruins of Sassanian villages, and divided from the districts of Char Mahal and Ispahan by the Zardah Koh and the Koh-i-Rang. BEARJUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, 48 miles south-east of Shahrud, on the direct road from Tehran to Herat, situated in a dry, barren, desolate plain. The soil around for the greater part is fine gravel mixed with sand, but little granite and less quartz meets there. Marble is seen in large masses. There is also a great deal of dark-coloured rock, in which copper is found but in small quantities, and the mines which are said to exist are not worked. {Clerk.) BEG DILI— A tribe who inhabit the district of Khalejistan in Persia. They live in houses. {Abbott.) BEHBAHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of the province of Fars, Persia, bounded on the north by the moun- tains which separate Irak Ajami from the south provinces of Persia ; east by Shulistan ; south by Persian Gulf; west by Ram Hormaz and the Chab country. The soil particularly in the plain is a rich alluvial deposit, yielding in the neighbourhood of the town a return of twenty-four fold of corn. Near the Gulf, cotton and rice are the staple productions. Among the fruit trees are the lemon, orange, pomegranate, and palm, of these the last takes precedence. The whole district is watered by numerous streams, the principal being the Shemsi, Arab, Khanabad, and Kurdistan. The climate is so mild, that in January the meadows in the vicinity of the town are covered with the narcissus, appearing spread out like a white sheet several miles m circumference, and diffusing the most delicious fragrance. The inhabitants consist chiefly of Kohgilu and other tribes of which the following is a list : — Bawi ... ... 1,200 tents) T . „ „ Kohmari ... 800 „ J ljlve near tlle Mamasenis. 5? velT - - 2 ' 000 '•' \ U ™ in Kohgilii. A broken Charm 1,000 „ j down tribe. ° Ataoken *5?\ ■•■. . - 1.000 „ Broken down. JJushman Zmee ... 600 „ Yusafi ... ... 400 „ Tyabi ... ... 1,000 „ A rich tribe. Behmahi ... ... 2,500 „ 70 BEH— BEL Sheer All ShehruT ... Malahmedei i i nnn 4-„„i» f Live between Ram Hormaz ai J- 1 > 000 tents [ Shustar. Aghajiri ) Jag'hatai \ ... 1,000 „ Eioh. Kesktil ... ) Tileh Kohi t Bilehlu ,„ [ ... 1,000 „ Leks. Jameh Baziirgi ) Nafar ... ogQ f Turks roam through different " t parts of Fars. Beharlii ... ... 1,230 „ Turks. . Lehrowi and Zeitun are two sub-districts of Behbahan. (Layard) BEHBAHAN— A town in Fars, Persia, 128 miles west north-west of Shlraz, situated on an extensive plain watered by the Kurdistan river, from the left bank of which it is 3 miles distant. It is a moderate pleasantly situated town in the middle of an extensive valley, and is 3J miles in circumference, surrounded by a mud wall flanked with circular towers and bastions. It is however almost a heap of ruins, and scarcely contains 4,000 inhabitants. Its bazaar is small, and its commerce almost neglected. It has few good houses, the streets are chiefly formed by wretched mud hovels which are in a state of lamentable dilapidation. All sorts of supplies are here plentiful and cheap. Water is procurable from a small stream, and fuel is abundant. Mules, asses, and horses for baggage are also obtainable. It is the residence of a prince governor, and there is usually a regiment and a few guns stationed here. Its south-east corner is occupied by a castle called Kala Naranj. It is a place of no great strength, but with thick and lofty mud walls surrounded by a deep ditch. Its interior is small and confined, and not capable of containing any number of troops. It is defended by five or six rusty cannons, and might successfully resist the attack of undisciplined troops. The plain of Behbahan is very fertile, being a rich alluvial deposit well suited for general cultivation, and watered at its west extremity by the Kurdistan river. It is about 7 miles from the north mountains and 18 miles from the Zeittin hills, and is between 21 to 25 miles in length. In the town of Behbahan there are two parties, the Behbahanis and the Kanawatis. (Jones — Layard — Honteith — Stocqueler.) BEHMEI— A tribe who inhabit the mountains to the north of Behbahan, in Khuzistan- Persia. They are described as a -wild and ferocious set, who scarcely re- cognise any authority whatever, and are frequently at feud with the governor of Behbahan. These are probably the same as the Bahmehi described above. BEJISTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A small walled town in Khorasan, Persia, in south of Nishapur. It is sorrounded with gardens which produce abundance of fruit, and contains 700 houses within the walls and 300 houses outside. The population is Persian. BELISAR— A small river in Ghilan, Persia, a few miles east of Langarud. It is the boundary between the district of Rawneku and Langarud. (Holmes.) 71 BEN— BER BENARtT— A village in Laristan, Persia, 39 miles north-west of Lar and 165 miles from MogQ Bay, on a road to Shiraz, from which it is distant 135 miles. Water is procured from wells, and it has some date groves. {Jones.) BENI HARDAN— An Arab tribe dependent on the town of HawTza in Khuzistan, Persia. During the summer and autumn they inhabit the banks of the Kerkhah and the marshes ; in the winter and spring they travel into the desert on both sides of the river, where at those seasons they find pasturage for their cattle and flocks. (Layard.) BENIIZAR— An Arab tribe dependent on the town of Hawiza in Khuzistan, Persia. During the summer and autumn they inhabit the banks of the Kerkhah and marshes ; in the winter and spring they travel into the desert on both sides of the river, where at those seasons they find pasturage for their cattle and flocks. (Layard.) BENI KAFOJ— A tribe who inhabit the neighbourhood of Tabas and Tun in Persia. BENI KHALED— A section of the tribe of Chab Arabs. They number 5,000 fighting men, and are wandering and pastoral in their habits. In the spring and the winter they scatter, but in the summer they concentrate with the other sections at or near Fellahiyah. (Petty.) BENIKOZD— A tribe of Persia who inhabit the vicinity of Tabas and Tun. BERA-DUST— A tribe of Kurds who inhabit the district of Kamresh, west of lake TJrumia, in the province of Azarbljan, Persia. They are a clan of much celebrity in Kurdish history as the former chiefs of Sumai and Terkur, but they are now reduced to some 4 or 500 families. They possess nearly 100 little villages, and acknowledge the supremacy of Amadia. (Rawlinson.) BERENDEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan in Persia, 30 miles east of Miana. It is situated on a beautiful valley on a river of the same name which rises on the lofty mountains of Ak-Dagh; it contains 1,200 inhabitants (Soonees), and the valley and sides of the hill form a perfect forest of fruit trees and vines ; it is dependent on Khalkhal. BEREZ— A village in Laristan in Persia, 21 miles from Lar, on the road to Shlraz by Jahrum, from which it is 72 miles distant. There are many date groves and gardens round this village ; all ordinary supplies are obtainable. Water is procured from a "kanat." (Jones.) BERMASHOR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars in Persia, 12 miles east of Shlraz. The land here is culti- vated and perfectly studded with wells, from which water is drawn by bullocks for the irrigation of melon grounds BEROZEH— A small town, capital of the Banna division of Sehna district of Persian Kurdistan, situated 150 miles north-west of Sehna, and 90 miles north-east ol fcuhmania. It is a wretched, filthy place, scarcely deserving the name oi town. The castle stands on a little artificial mound. There are a 72 BER— BEY number of Jews residing here. There is a pass which leads from it to Arababa in Turkish Kurdistan. The town is very often called Banna. {Rich.) BERUDER— A village in Persian Kurdistan, 25 miles north-west of Sehna, on the road from Sulimania. The village is not actually on the road, but about 1 mile to the north over the hills. The inhabitants, however, generally encamp in summer in a valley through which the road runs, and where' there is a fine spring of water. (Rich.) BESHGtJM— A village in Ears, Persia, 75 miles east of Abushahar, on the road by Shlraz to Firozabad, from which last it is 76 miles west, It is situated in a plain of oval form and of some extent. The water is bad and scarce, and the jieighbourhood devoid of cultivation. (Snoclgrass.) BB-SITON— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirmanshah, Persia, 21 miles west of that town, consisting of 18 houses and a royal caravanserai. It is known on account of its ruins, of which accounts will be found in Sir John Malcolm's Persia, also on Sir H. Rawlinson's paper on the subject in the 9th volume, Geographical Journal, in Jones' "Journey through parts of Persia and Kurdistan/" and in Taylor's " Route from Tehran to Baghdad." The stream Garmab, an affluent of the Karasu, flows by Besitun. This place is also known by the name of Behistan. There is a caravanserae here, and a few supplies are procurable. BETA KHAN— Major Wilson in a report to Government, dated 24th May 1828, says that Beta Khan, a place in the hills in the neighbourhood of Assilu, on the Persian coast, was recommended to him as a good place of resort for con- valescents from India or the Persian Gulf, and he accordingly made a fatiguing march to satisfy himself on this point, but found nothing to induce him to think it would be eligible for such a purpose. {Wilson.) BETAVAND— Lat. Long. Elev._ A village in Persia, 15 miles north-east of Shustar, in Khuzistan. It is situated at the foot of gypsum hills, and surrounded by green fields and meadows through which runs a rivulet coming from the mountains, to the right of which the water is brackish. It consists of about 100 neat and clean houses with a tomb (imamzadeh) on the top of a hillock. BETAVAND— A tributary of the Karun river in Khuzistan, Persia, which joins it short before it forces its way through the gorge of Koh-i-Fedelak. It is said to be salt. {Layard.) BEYAT— A tribe who inhabit the district of Khalejistan, Province Irak Ajaml, Persia, south-west of Tehran. {Abbott) BEYAZ— A village in Kirman, Persia, 118 miles from Yezd, 119 miles from Kirman. It contains 40 or 50 houses. About j mile from the village are a post house and a serai. {Smith.) BEYI— Lat. Long. Elev. A district in Azarbijan, Persia, on the left bank of the Saghatu river, south- east of the lake tjrumla. It is now inhabited by Chardauris, but formerly 73 k BEZ— BIL belonged to the Beyi tribe of Mikris who were expelled by Abbas Mirza. (Rawlinson.) BEZA— Lat. Long. Elev. A small district in Khuzistan, Persia, between the head waters of the Allai and Tezeng, tributaries of the Kurdistan river. It is reckoned very produc- tive, and has extensive cultivation of wheat and barley. BEZAH— A large'sub-division of Fars, Persia, situate to the north-west of Shiraz. It produces rice, wheat, barley, and possesses some gardens. In the centre of this district there is a pasture ground, in which 6,000 mares belonging to the prince of Pars used to graze during three spring and three autumn months every year. (Petty.) BEYBAND— A large village in Kirman, Persia, 18 miles from Bandar Abbass, on the road by Darab to Shiraz. There is a small fortaliee here, with some date groves and gardens round. Water is procured from wells and reservoirs. Fuel is very scarce ; camel dung being principally used here. (Jones.) BIABANAK— A rauge of mountains said to be in the middle of the great salt desert of Khorasan, Persia, and to contain villages and cultivations. This statement is contained in an " Itenerary from Yezd to Herat" sent from the Foreign Office to the Asiatic Society. It is possible there may be some foundation for it. BIBIKABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 28 miles east-north-east of Hamadan, and 160 miles west-south-west of Tehran. It contains 400 houses, and is situated in the middle of a vast and rich plain, and has some plantations and gardens (Taylor.) BLDASHK— A village in Persia, 174 miles from Tehran, on road to Ispahan, from which it is 60 miles distant. It lies half mile to the east of the road, and contains some 30 houses and a post house, and has some cultivation. (Clerk ) BIDEH— A village in Yezd district, in Persia, about 1 mile from Mebut west, and 37 miles from Yezd. It is an old castellated looking village. Here are made a great number of the oval shaped earthern pipes used for making under-ground canals (kanats) in loose soil. It is situated on an elevated part of the plain of Mebut, and possesses a fine tract of field and garden land, the former of which produces cotton and barley. (Smith— Abbott ) BIJAH— ' ; A village in Azarbijan, Persia, situated on a slope north-east of Ahar near to a picturesque tree, which forms a landmark here (Morier ) BILBAS— A tribe who inhabit the district of Lahijan, province of Azarbijan Persia for the rent of which they pay 1,000 tomans a year (£500) to the 'Mikris' of which tribe they are believed to be a branch. The Bilbas roam about the frontiers of Persia and Turkey, transferring their allegiance from one government to the other as expedience suggested, until it is difficult to say among the subjects of which nation they ought properly to be included : about 80 years ago they rose to such power that they were alike 74 BIL a terror to the Afshars, the Mikris, and the Mokeddems. The Mikri country they had entirely over-run, and it was not until Ahmed Khan, of Maragah, the famous Mokeddem chief, invited all the leaders of the tribe to a great banquet, where he murdered 300 of them in cold blood, that the south of Azarbijan recovered its tranquillity. For some years after this they were hunted from the face of the country like wild animals, and were obliged to take refuge within the Turkish frontier, where the Mir of Rowandiz found them when he rose to power, and by again slaughtering their most distinguished chiefs brought them under some order and obedience. Since the removal of the Mir, they have partly relapsed into their old predatory habits, and are now regarded as the most treacherous and turbulent of all the border tribes of Kurdistan. Their power is so broken that at the present day they cannot pretend to meet the Mikris in open combat; but still to prevent their depredations and retain them in some sort of vassalage, that tribe has been content to relinquish to them the rich district of Lahijan, where parts of the two divisions of Mengur and Mamish are now settled, gradually adopting agricultural pursuits and passing from a nomadic to a fixed life. The third great division, which indeed includes nearly half the whole tribe, is named Piran. These, with the remainder of the Mengur and Mamish, still adhere to a wandering life, pasturing their flocks in summer upon the Persian frontier along the skirts of the mountains from Sardasht to TTshriae, and retiring on the approach of winter, far within the Turkish fine, to the warm pastures of Beitush and Germigan on the banks of the Lesser Zab. The Bilbas consider themselves as dependent upon Turkey, but some of their chiefs have lately made proposals of allegiance to Azarbijan, and the government is naturally anxious to induce them to settle permanently within the Persian frontier. They number about 5,000 families, but they can bring even a larger number of horsemen into the field, for, contrary to the usual habits of the tribes, several brothers frequently five in the same family and near ; every Bilbas is provided with his horse and his spear. Firearms are used by the Bilbas in all their mountain warfare, and their matchlockmen are excellent marksmen, their assistance being eagerly courted by the Kurdistan chiefs in their struggles among each other ; but for a foray on the plains, they usually take the field with spear and shield, mounted "mactire, little high bred horses admirably bitted, and the leaders for the most part wearing steel helmets and shirts of mail, and they are considered most dashing horsemen. The Bilbas comprise the following divisions : — Piran. Mengur. Mokhaneh. Kadivw^isi. Berchem. Zudi.^ Morik. Rasgei. Yusuf Khelikah. Kasgei. Sebrema. Mernekena. Seta. Westapira. Wermezigar. Nanakeli. Hessen Aghai. Mamandesina. Pewa. Mamish. Hemgeb. Aghai. Merbuk. Jokbur. Belawend. Merbabakra. Pekehwetmanah. Sinu. Eanik. (Rawlinson.) 75 BIL— BIR BILKABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, situated south of Maraga, on the Khowajn river. It has a considerable elevation, and the soil of the country round a dark loam ; is cultivated without any artificial irrrigation. (Morier.) BILOCH— Lat. Long. Elev. In his account of the Iliyats of Persia, Morier says there are 3,000 or 4,000 families of Biloch on the south of Persia, but their number is now very much larger since Persian encroachments on Bilochistan. {Morier.) BINAB— Lat. Long. 46°; Elev. 3,717. A town in the province of Azarbijan, Persia, left bank of Soflchai, 55 miles south-south-west of Tabrez, and 8 miles east of lake TJrumia. It is a con- siderable town, containing about 1,500 houses, and surrounded for many miles in all directions with orchards and vineyards, which last yield a grape cele- brated throughout Persia for the good wine it produces. This is owing to the mildness of the climate it enjoys from the neighbourhood of the lake, and vast quantities of these grapes are exported to Tabrez. The streets of the town are clean, and the greater part of them having a stream of water flowing down the centre. There is also a bazaar and several good caravan- saries. Binab forms a dependency of Maragha, paying 4,000 tomans (£2,000) of revenue, and furnishing a quota of 400 men to the Azerbljan army — an obligation fully equivalent to the amount of actual taxation. Abundance of water is found a few feet beneath the surface, and the vineyards are thus all provided with wells for irrigation. The Sofiehai Lor, river of Maraghah, flows also along the south outskirts of the gardens, and numerous canals are derived from it, which contribute to water the town and vineyards. To the south of Binab the Sofichae is crossed by a solid bridge of 5 arches. (Rawlinson.) BINDUNI— A small tribe of Persia who are dependent on the BakhtiarTs, and are scat- tered amongst them, and are said to number 6,700 families, and to be able to turn out perhaps 500 fighting men. They are believed by the Bakhtiarls to be the aboriginal inhabitants of their country. This tribe has no chief of its own, but some of its members intermix with the Char Lang. (Layard ) BIRJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khorasan, about 53 miles south-east of Tun and 180 miles south of Mashad ; capital of a district of the same name. It is of great antiquity, and though much decayed, is still a place of considerable importance. It is the seat of government, and has extensive felt manufactures. The population has been stated at 30,000 families, but Fraser thinks it does not exceed that number of individuals. The felt carpets (namads) made at Blrjan surpass m workmanship and materials those of any other place, and they sell accordingly at a comparatively high price here and at Mashad and Tehran, where great numbers are exported. Caravans go from Blrjan several times m the year towards Khubbes, and take wool, grain, dried fruits silk, saffron of Ghayn, butter, manna, &c, a great part of which goes on to .Bandar Abbas for India. The caravans return from Khubbes usually in April bringing groceries, spices, indigo, and English cotton manufactures tst^S? 138311, T ^ ere are roads to lt from Kil 'man, Ghayn, and Bampur. aiiiMhx — Lat. Long. Elev A village in Ears, Persia, 103 miles north-east of Bushahr and 107 miles south-west of Shiraz. 76 BIS— BOR BISGOSH. See Buz Koh. (Morier.) BISHIWEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in KirmSnshah, Persia, on the bank of the Holwan river, and between Dakani Daud and the mountains of Zagros. It is plentifully watered and well cultivated, and terminates at the foot of the Tak-i-Girrah. It is inhabited by Lurl tribes, and is surrounded by hills on all sides and is very stony. BISTAN. See Shahrud. BIWARAN. A village in Irak AjamI, Persia, on a road from Tehran to Kasvin, situated on a remarkable hill. [Morier.) BIZDAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 150 miles east-south-east of Shlraz, and 14 miles south-west of Darab. It is situated in a plain almost enclosed within mountains. Near the village is a bridge of eight large and three small arches over a stream which in winter must be considerable. (Ouseley.) BOGAM— Lat. . Long. Elev. A village in the province of Azarbljan, Persia, on a small rivulet tributary of the Jagatti, and south-east of Migandab. It is described as a wretched looking place. (Mignon.) BOGREB— A small stream in Khuzistan, Persia, which joins the Dawarij in the plain of Patak. (Layard.) BOLAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Garmrud district, Azarbljan, Persia, on the road from Seraskand to Miana. It is picturesquely situated on the brink of a pre- cipice. {Morier.) BOLEITI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the opposite side of the Ab-i-Gargar to Shustar, with which it is connected by a bridge of single arch called Pul-i-Boleiti. This village is the residence of the chief of the Gunduzlu tribe. (Layard.) BONEI KATU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in district Zeitun, Khuzistan, Persia. The district in which it is situated is well suited to the cultivation of corn and grain of various kinds but ill-irrigated. (Layard?) BONOWAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the right bank of the river Dizful. It is celebrated for its gardens and rich arable land. (Layard.) BONOWAR-NAZIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river in Khuzistan, Persia, on the right bank of the river Dizful, cele- brated for its gardens and rich arable soil. (Layard.) BOR-I-SHI— A river of Mazanderan, Persia. (Holmes.) BOROWI— An Arab tribe of Khuzistan, Persia. (Layard.) BORS. See Ab-i-Bors. 77 BOS— BUB BOSHKAN— A village in Fars, Persia, 75 miles from Abushhar and 102 miles from Shlraz by the Firozabad road. It has a fort and 250 huts, and water is procured from streams and wells. {Felly.) BOSINJaN— A village in Fars, Persia, 12 miles from Fahliyan and 59 miles from ShirSz, on the road between them. It is situated at the base of the Kala Sufed. There are some gardens here of fig and grape. Grain, sheep, and wood are abundant, and water is procurable from a rivulet. {Jones.) BOSMITCH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 11 miles south-east of Tabrez. It is a fine place, situated on a small plain three miles in diameter, generally swampy but with a climate sensibly colder than that of Tabrez. BOSTAM— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khorasan, Persia, east of Tehran and west of Mashad. It is renowned for the great fertility of its soil, delicious and beau- tiful streams of water, and excellent horses. It is here that the celebrated Turkman horse is first met with. The cotton goods of this locality are also held in great repute. The district of Bostam, of which this town is the chief place, commences at Deh Mula and ends at Abbasabad. It contains Shahrud, the small towns of Mujan and Aversudje, and thirty-eight villages, all rich and fertile. The district furnishes to the Shah's army 4,000 regular footmen, who receive from 8 to 10 tomans (£4 to 5) yearly; they are esteemed among the best of the royal troops, and are known by the name of Lashkar-e-Arab-o-Ajam (Arab and Persian); there are said to be 4,000 families of Arab extraction resident in this district. They are chiefly of the Ameri tribe, the remainder of 12,000 tents brought from Arabia during the ( Bunnee Abbass'' Khalifate ; now they live in houses and talk Persian. The governor of Bostam keeps a few soldiers in his pay, and the inhabitants, obliged to be on the alert against the Turkmans, furnish every third man for the militia (Eeljaree). Fine stream, the Rud-e-Shah, comes from the mountains past Bostam, and enables the inhabitants to force a considerable quantity of cultivation from what would otherwise be a sterile gravelly plain, for water is not to be had here for digging. Good fruits are grown, and much cultivation is carried on at the villages in the vicinity, and care is taken to have large supplies stored : 60,000 pilgrims pass through this yearly for Mashad. Formerly this district was the last dependency of Little Komus to the east. The possession of this district would give a power from the north based on the Caspian — a most formidable influence on the affairs of either East or West Persia. BOSTANA— Lat. 26° 29' 52"; Long. 54° 35' 44"; Elev. A village on the coast of Laristan, Persia. It contains 100 men of the Manzik tribe, principally employed in fishing. A few supplies may be obtained here. The Cape of Bostana encloses the bay of Mogu ; on the east is a low shelving point with rugged hills immediately above it. Its extremity is about latitude 26°30' north ; it bears from the island Polior north- north-east | east and west from the south end of Kishm. {Kinneir Brucks — Taylor.) BIJBIAN— An island in the Persian Gulf, south of the mouth of the Shat-ul Arab. It is a desert, and bas no habitations or fresh water. — {Colville.) 78 BUH— BUR BUHERIT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, in the district of Lehraowi inland between the Hindyan and Bandar Rl. BtJJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A walled in village Khorasan, 7 miles east of Biirjan. It contains 300 houses, and its inhabitants are Persians. BtJJABAN— A maritime district of Kirman, Persia, extending along the coast from Ziarat to Jask, and enclosed between the Beshankard hills and the sea. It is crossed by nine rivers coming down from the hills. None of them, how- ever, flow in continuous streams throughout the year, though some have large pools of water along their beds, even at the lowest season, and all of them become impassable torrents after rain in the upper country. The district is subject to the Sultan of Muscat. Its inhabitants are Brioches, said to have descended into the plain upwards of a hundred years ago from the hill country of Beshankard. The local governor is a Biloch and resides at Sirik. The villages of this district are numerous, and the date groves and cultivation extensive. After abundant rain and corresponding harvest, provisions are sufficiently abundant, but in ordinary time grain and straw are very scarce ; drinking water equally so, and even mutton and goat's meat are not always readily obtainable. {Petty '.) BULFERIZI— A small tribe of Khuzistan, Persia, who inhabit the banks of the Bulferiz river, a tributary of the Ab-e-Allar. BULVARD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 15 miles north-east of Kum. BtJMGIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village, in Irak Ajami, Persia, about 20 miles east of Tehran. It is a large village, and has a stream which irrigates the land attached to it. (Morier.) BUNAH— Lat. 30° T 48"; Long. 49° 10' 18"; Elev. _ An island in the Persian Gulf off the coast of Khuzistan, east of Bandar Mashur. It is narrow and low, being about 3£ miles long. It has the ruins of an old fort on it. (Brucks.) BTJNAR— Lat. ^ Long. Elev. A village in Abushahr, district of Fars, Persia. It contains 70 houses, and pays a revenue of 100 tomans. (Pelly.) BCRAZJUN— Lat. Long. Elev. 7 A walled village in Fars, Persia, 38 miles north from Bushahr, situated on a J level cultivated plain. There is a considerable collection of houses built of mud and date trees outside the ruined defences of a small fort. Provisions are abundant, and water good from wells within the village ; vegetables are procurable in the season ; almond wood and other fuel is procurable ; also poultry and slaughter cattle. It has 400 houses, and pays a revenue of 4,000 tomans. The approach to Burazjun from Khushab direction is thus described by Captain Wray : — A thick date grove completely hides it from sight from the road. There is then an opening and then a date, then another opening and \ another date grove. The road goes between the left and centre groves, but Vi4n the right (east) grove there are wells of good water. General Sir James Outram in the war of 1857 advanced as far as this place, but found it 79 BUR— BUS unoccupied. The hills are not above three miles off, and they are stony, bare, crumbled and furrowed in appearance. (Clark — Taylor—Jones — Morier — Wray — Hick— Ouseley — Monteith.) BURJA— Lat, Long. Elev. A village in Kirm5n, Persia, 10 miles east by south of Nahimabad. It is a small circular fortified village, in which there are 50 or 60 houses, and is surrounded by dense jungle. BURJAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in the district of Ghayn, Khorasan, Persia, 164 miles north of Bampore in Bilochistan. BURJ-I-MAMUS— See Kalat-i-Nadar. (Pelly.) BERJNtJRD-Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khorasan, situated in a valley, 64 miles west of Kuchan. _ Burnes calls it a rather large place, standing in a spacious valley, and the residence of a Kurd chief. About 1,000 black tents of nomads were scattered round. Eraser merely mentions it as : " the pleasant and well-known valley of Burjnurd." The district appears to be much subject to Turkman raids. (Fraser — Bumes.) BURlJ — Lat. _ Long. Elev. A walled village in Khorasan, Persia, 7 miles north of Tun, 135 miles south of Nishapur, containing 150 houses and Persian .inhabitants. BURUJARD— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in the district of the same name, Persia, 200 miles south-west of Tehran, 190 miles north-east of Ispahan. It is situated in a remarkably beautiful plain sheltered on the north by a mountain, and on the banks of a small river which flows into the Dizful river. It contains about 12,000 souls, amongst whom are many fanatical Syads and Mulas. The governor of the . small district of this name is usually a prince of the blood. Here are the finest pastures in Persia, for which some of the Persian cavalry are always stationed here, and numerous and excellent horses of Arab blood are reared here. Some of the divisions of the Bakhtiari tribes are accustomed to encamp in the immediate vicinity of this place. The carpets manufactured at Burujard are held in great estimation. Its productions are dried fruits and treacle of grapes. (Kinneir — Fraser.) BURZU SERVISTIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Pars, Persia, 47 miles south south-east of Shiraz, chief place of the district of Servistan. It is said to contain 800 families, and is embosomed in gardens and orchards producing a variety of fruits. Salt and sulphur, , both stated to be deposits from the springs of water, found in this district. f BUSHAHR— Lat. 29°0'15"; Long. 50°51'30"j Elev. A port on the coast of Fars, Persia, %%U miles west south-west of Shiraz by Firozabad, 167 miles by Kazirun. Bushahr is situated at the north extremity of a low sandy peninsula, about 11 miles long and 3£ miles broad. It is washed on the west by the sea, which after encircling its north point turns towards the east and forms a deep bay. Thus the town is surrounded on all sides by water except the south. Formerly at the equinoctial tides, the sea rose so high as to isolate the town; but latterly this has not occurred, although frequently the water approaches 80 BUS within a few hundred yards of the town on the land side, giving it an almost insular appearance. The portion of land which forms the peninsula has been reclaimed from the sea ; the soil is fine sand and mud with a rocky base of sandstone mixed with innumerable shells of so soft a nature as to crumble under the slightest blow into fine dust. Its seaward asnect is somewhat elevated and rocky, and from the constant action of the tides and the soft nature of the stones, it is hollowed into innumerable grotesque shapes. The aspect of the town from the south and the outer anchorage ground is rather pretty, the square buildings erected on the top of the houses, for the purpose of conveying wind into the apartments below during the hot weather, appearing like so many minarets or towers. The town is built in a triangular shape, of which the apex is to the north and the base towards the land side. It has walls only in this last direction, and these have dis- tributed along them twelve towers, two of which form the town gate, and all are pierced for musketry. The wall encloses a larger space than is occupied by houses, and the south side of the town is a mass of ruins now un- inclosed, which were an addition made to the town at some former period. The wall is only visible from the plain, and is about 30 feet high and five or six feet thick. It has the towers mentioned above and two gates. The streets .are exceedingly narrow, in some places not wide enough to permit a single donkey to pass; they are without arrangement or order, pass- ing and winding round the various dwellings in a most confused manner and are unpaved and dirty to an extreme. They are extremely dusty from" the constant decomposition of the soft sandstone of which the houses are constructed, and, notwithstanding their narrowness, the walls on either side are so low that they do not keep the sun off the people passing to and fro, and as there is no sub or surface drainage, every nuisance that should be removed by such means is allowed to accumulate in the streets to be dissipated by the agency of the sun's rays, and from the complete want of sanitary measures, the emanations from the streets are beyond belief offensive. The houses are built of conglomerate stone, composed of fragments of marine shells and coral reef of a light specific gravity and friable texture, easily formed into building material. It is obtained a mile or so from the walls of the town, and forms the principal bulk of which the peninsula is formed. The better class of houses are often lofty, simple in their archi- tecture, and without ornament of any description. These usually have wind towers, rising 15 or 20 feet above, the tops being open on all sides to catch and convey into the rooms below the slightest breath of wind. The number, however, of good, or even tolerably comfortable, houses is very few : perhaps there could not be found a dozen in the town. Inside the space occupied by the town are a number of ruins and date tree huts, the resi- dence of strangers, slaves, and the poorer inhabitants. The best houses are generally built towards the sea, and near that part of the town which is built towards the inlet of the sea are two stone piers, close to which boats - of 100 and 200 "candies" can load and unload; and in the immediate vicinity of these are several extensive warehouses and a caravanserae, in which the chief mercantile transactions of the port are conducted. The bazaars, which are of considerable extent, run in a direction east and west, are covered in, and exhibit an excellent appearance, and much regularity 81 L BUS pervades in them ; the various vendors of different merchandize and manu- factures having each their portion of the bazaar allotted to them. There are said to be about 500 date huts, 2 mosques, a few baths, a caravanserae, and an Armenian church. The British Kesidency at Biishahr is a large and convenient building, surrounded by a wall and situated at the south extremity of the town close to the beach. The population of the town fluctuates considerably, and is variously esti- mated from 10,000 to 15,000, but it is probably about 12,000 in quiet and prosperous times. These are a mixed race between the Persian and Arab, v possessing in common the characteristic features and manners of both in- timately blended. English mercantile transactions are conducted in a great measure through the agency of Armenians. There are also a few Jews, but they are a disre- putable lot. The inhabitants have the reputation of being extremely uncivil ^ to strangers, looking down on all in comparison to themselves. The average daily hire of artisans and laborers at Bushahr — Mason (Head)... Bricklayer Ditto (Assistant) Laborers ... 2^ Kerans. ... 2 ... 1 1. Carpenter (Head) Ditto (Assistant) Blacksmiths ... '.'■'■ 2 3 u ± z tt ... 2 Goldsmiths paid according to work. Well-sinkers ... ... 1 Tent-menders ... ... 2 Tailors ... 2 Besides there are barbers, shoemakers, butchers, and bakers, who generally have shops of their own. The average wages of employers and domestics at Bushahr are — Mirza Arabic „ Persian Moonshee Interpreters Butlers Assistant ditto ... Farash-bashi Farash Musals Kalianohis Boys... Cooks (Head) Indian Ditto (Mate) „ „ (Head) Persian „ (Mate) Master of Horses Groom (Head) „ (Under) ... Muleteers (Head) .. . „ (Under)... Sweepers Water-men 82 150 Kerans per mensem 100 30 to 50 50 to 60 40 to 50 20 to 25 tt 40 a 20 it j> 16 »> 15 25 to 30 40 to 15 to 50 20 j> tt 30 >» 10 » 50 10 to 20 12 jj 30 j> n 10 »j n 10 tt 15 to 20 tt BUS The animals procurable in Bushahr are the horse, mule, : sheep, and dogs. Mules and asses are the principal animals of bi rocky nature of the road to Shiraz and other places in the inta that camels are very nearly useless. Horses of size and bone are brought up in great numbers hither annually and exported to India. Those bred in the " DashtistSn'" have a great deal of the Arab blood in them, and great care is taken in rearing them. Their average price is from Rs. 250 to 400, and vessels take them to Bombay for Rs. 40 or 50 a head. The price of a good mule varies from Rs. 80 to 150, that of asses from Rs. 30 to 50, those from the Island of Bahrein, which are of superior size and more endurance than the common ass, are frequently sold as high as Rs. 100; of course, however, if the passes to the north were occupied by an enemy, animals could not be brought down in large numbers. The average price of animals at Bushahr is — Kerans each. Horses, riding, best „ » 2nd „ „ „ 3rd „ Mules, best baggage „ 2nd „ „ Asses, Muscat, riding Bahrein, 600 to 1,000 300 to 600 100 to 100 to 40 to Jdi Procured from the Rohilla district and adjacent villages. from the inte- 30 to 100 30 to 15 to 300 J 250 \ Brought 100 ) rior. Got from Muscat and Lin. gah ; small, strong, and swift. f Grot from Bahrein ; swift, hut 150 I weak, and not fit for hard (.work. 30 Slow, strong, and very hardy. 80 Got from the interior. „ Dashti baggage Camels, best baggage . . . „ 2nd „ „ ... ... 50 „ „ „ Horses, baggage ... ... 50 to 100 Gear for animals cost on average as follows : — Saddle, complete ... ... ... 20 to 40 Kerans each. Bridle „ ... ... ... 2J Halters „ ... ... ... H Heelropes „ ... ... ... 2 Stirrups „ ... ... ... 2 Girths, leather,, ... ... ... I5 Ditto, hair „ •■ ... •■• 5 Bits, best „ ... ... ••• 1 Pack-saddle, camel . ••• ... 1 to 2 Ditto asses, riding ... ... ... 15 to 30 Ditto „ baggage ... ... ... 3 to 4 Clothing for horses, mules, or asses ... ... 2 to 3 The quantity of supplies procurable in the BQshahr market is consider- able; wheat is sold at an average price pf Rs. 4 for lbs. 127 ; chopped straw for forage is plentiful, and is the only food horses are allowed. Rice from Shiraz and India is always obtainable, and the more common grains, such as bajra, are abundant. Bullocks and sheep are of good quality, though small. The fowls of Bushahr are famous for their size and delicacy of their flesh. Vegetables, viz., onions, sweet potatoes, common potatoes, brinjals, carrots, beetroots, and radish are grown in the vicinity, and fruit is brought from the villages of the plain, the plains beyond, and among the mountains in such plenty as to be sold for a mere trifle : they are the black grape, the common grape, musk, and water-melon, occasionally the Ispahan 83 BUS melon, plums, pomegranates, dates, peaches, pears, quinces, sweet limes, and oranges. Dried cherries, plums and grapes, almonds, waluuts, figs, pistachio nuts, &c, are sold in the bazaar and exported in great quantities annually. The supply of fish in the market is not abundant and cannot be calculated on. The following list of the average price of articles, prepared by Captain Jones for the information of the force operating against Persia in 1857, will be of value in this place : — Bullocks ,, ... )> ... Calves ,, ... Sheep j» ... Lambs Goats Fowls Chickens Ducks Pigeons (wild or tame) 1st sort, each 20 Mahomed Shah Kerans. 2nd 3rd 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 16 12 7 6 5 4 11 3 8 5 24 1 to 3 to4 No geese or turkeys to be had in the market. Deer and Hoobereh (a species of fowl, flesh good and tender) is th e only game brought for sale, and only in winter and spring. Suet ... ... sort, each Fish, fresh Do., salt Prawns, fresh ... Do., dry Bread, fresh ... Do., do. (Shap Jacks) ... Flour, sifted. ... Do., do., common ... Ghee Eggs Milk Butter Curds, or sour milk Wheat, pure ... Do., mixed with barley... Barley, Bushire Do., Busreh Pepper Coriander Seed Turmeric Chilleys, or Cayenne pepper Rice, Mangalore (fine) Do., do. (coarse) ... Do., Bengal ... Do., Champa ... Do., Shiraz ... Salt Mustard, Grain Garlic Vinegar Coffee, Mocha ... Do., Java ... Ginger 1st 1st 1st Plums, small Cheese 2 8 1 2 15 6 12 8 2 2 8 5 4 3 2 2 1 2 9 8 14 14 9 2 3 3 1 10 16 1 Mahomed Shah Kerans. 84 BUS Sugar, Mysore .. sor > each 2 Mahomed Do., Bengal ... jj 2 jj Do., Java 9t ts 2 j» Do., Soorgee i» j, 2 jj Tea, black 1st j» „ 24 jj Do., do., inferior jj „ 16 »j Do., do., common »> ,j 7 )> Do., green 1st j) „ 16 jj Oil, cocoanut ... JJ jj 3 jj Do., sesame JJ j. 2 JJ Do., common, Banna JJ j, 2 tt Cloves tt jj 3 It Cardamoms jj „ 24 Cinnamon , jj j, 10 JJ Nutmegs jj j, 8 JJ Tamarind jj » o JJ Zaffroon JJ » 16 JJ Honey JJ >, 2 JJ Date Juice it „ 10 JJ Grape Juice JJ „ 1 JJ Dried Curds ... jj j, o JJ Apples jj j, 2 JJ Pears jj „ 2 JJ Quinces jj ,j 1 JJ Damsons jj >j o Oranges, sweet jj ,j o JJ Do., sour ... jj » 1 JJ Pomegranates, Shiraz Jj JJ 1 13 Grapes, Shiraz jj 1 It Almonds, fine shell » ,. 8 Do., coarse shell jj „ 1 JJ Apricots jj jj 5 JJ Pistachio Nuts, large jj „ 4 JJ Do. do., small jj j, 2 „ Dates, Halowee 1st jj j, 4 JJ Do., Ganthar 2nd jj jj 4 JJ Do., Samroon 3rd jj j, 4 JJ Walnuts jj „ 2 i Figs, dry jj jj 1 JJ Do., fresh jj » o tt Limes, sour (Semons) jj „ io JJ Do., sweet ... jj ,t 6 JJ Citrons jj j, 8 1} Chesnuts jj ,j 3 JJ Dates, dry JJ „ 10 JJ Filberts JJ „ 3 JJ Prunes Jj „ 2 JJ Peaches jj » o JJ Cherries, dry ... jj j, 1 JJ Almonds, small (inferior) .. jj » 4 „ "Water-melon seed, roasted . . St „ 1 „ Seeds of Fruit, roasted JJ jj 2 JJ Onions JJ jj 1 JJ Radishes J) jj 2 JJ Carrots JJ jj 2 JJ Beetroot ... St jj 2 >t Beans, green ... » „ 2 ts Do., dry ss » 6 SS Peas, green ss j, 1 JJ Do., dry 1st St „ 7 to 10 JJ Do., do. 2nd ts „ 4 to 8 JJ Do., do. ... ... 3rd ss » o JJ 85 sort each 3 » )j 2 )5 )» » 8 2 )) s; 5 6 a jj 2 ft „ 2 }> >> 4 " >j 2 2 a jj )j j> 2 )) j) 1 2 to 4 jj »j 15 j) )) 15 »» J5 3 )) )» 2 1 )) J) 1 J) »j J) 1 j» )) 30 jj 45 18 >) !> 50 42 24 BUS Pumpkins ... ••• sort each 3 Mahomed Shah Kerans. Brinjals Turnips Cucumbers Lettuce Gram Potatoes, Bombay- Do., Ispahan and Bushire Soap, Europe ... Do., Bombay ... Do., Shiraz ... Tobacco, Shiraz Do. , Cazeroon Rose water Candles, wax ... Do., sperm ... Barley, Bushire Do., Busreh Hay Clover Spirits (Arrack) Do., Bum (Batavia) Do., Gin ... Do., Brandy Beer Port Wine Sherry Claret The following is a table of weights used in the Bushahr market for edibles of every description, including fodder, &c. They are used by every one, goldsmiths, grocers, and apothecaries alike :— = 1 Miscal. = 1 Kias. 1 Wuka. = 1 Charuk. = 1 Man Tabriz. ; 1 Churak Hashim. 1 Man Hashim. = 1 Kareh. A Bushahr Man = 760 miscals, or 304 tolas Indian, or 7J lbs. English, Avoirdupois The Hashim Man = 116 lbs. Avoirdupois. Fuel is very scarce at Bushahr. Date and Konar trees are the wood growing in the plain, and that not in great quantity ; consequently fuel is very expensive, being brought in boats from all along the coast. It consists in a great measure of mangrove. The following list of building materials used at Bushahr with the average value of the same may be useful : — Used for ornamenting rooms. Generally used ; procured in boats from Tangistan. Not much used ; of inferior qua- lity. Used in covering roofs, &c. Used in damp places, such as baths, &o. When mixed with ashes becomes sarooj. 86 24 Grams 47| Miscals 2 Kias 4 Kias 16 Kias 4 Man Tabriz 16 Man Tabriz 100 Man Hashim Chunam Sort. 1st 2nd Kerans. ... 2 for 116 lbs. ... 30 „ 1,160 „ » 3rd ... 20 „ 1,160 „ Mud _ Sarooj (black mortar) 6 „ 100 loads ,.. 2 „ 116 lbs. Ahuk (lime) ... 2 „ 116 „ BUS Stone 1st size 10 for 100 Nos. Ditto . . 2nd size . 6 „ 100 Ditto .. small 1 „ 100 Bricks, kiln-burnt .. 4 „ 100 Bricks, sun-dried Rafters , 1st sort 2nd „ 3rd „ Date trees stumps (whole ones) ... Do. do. (quarter ones) 30 20 16 1-25 0-40 1,000 20 20 20 ... Can be cut into I shape from stone 1 miles out of Jorl making main pilla ing, and any strong* walls, &c. Ditto ditto ditto. ... Used in making walls, &c, &c. . . . Used in making railings to ter- races, levelling floors, &c. Scarce ; can be got from Bus- rah; ornamented and glazed ones can also be got, but are dear. ... Used only where no stones can be got. " ( Brought from Muscat; cheap in " t summer, but dear in winter. Date Sticks Earthen Vessels (wide basins) Do. (goglets) Baskets, large size ... Do., small do. ... Mats, Bahrein Do., Busreh, fine ... Do., do., coarse... Timber, Teak, 2 inch thick each 100 Nos. Do., Mangoe, Do., Monteig, Do., Lubban, Do., common Nails of sizes Do., very small ''Got from Bahrein and Kateenge ; used sometimes instead of raf- ters, because cheaper. Not strong articles, as they soon wear away. .. Used in covering roofs; arranged next to mats on ceilings of buildings. /'Used for mixing chunam with ... \ water ready for mason's work. ... 1 Water conveyed in these to place t. of work. .. ( Got from Bahrein ; used in car- .. \ rying mud, chunam, &c. . . ( Used in lining sitting rooms, .. ( &o. .. Used for lining ceilings of build- ings, &c. ... ("Sold according to length, breadth, and quality ; sometimes very cheap, at others dear. It is impossible to give an idea of its average value. C Got from India ; those made in ' < Bushire being of very inferior C quality. the value of coins current in the Bushahr 1-0 each 0-10 „ 0-10 „ 0-8 „ 2-50 pairs 2-60 each 0-40 „ 60 to 20 each 6 to 7 „ 12 „ 8 „ 1 „ 4 for 7£ lbs. 5 „ 7i „ The following table shows market. The standard coin is the Mahomed Shah Keran : — Gold. Venetian sequin called Dobuti J I Kerans. Mejer Tomans of 18 Makhods 24 „ Ghazis (Turkish) Medjidees (ditto) Sovereigns Goldmohurs of 1 tola Mejer = 10 Asharfi hujda Nakhodi = 970 Asharfi miskah = 13 Ghazi =4-12 Medjidi = 19 to 20 GTnl = 20 to 22 Golmohr = 39 87 BUS Spanish Dollars Carolus IV called Rial Tupi Char Khati = 5 each. „ „ III „ ,, » Seh „ =4-91 „ others „ „ ,, = 4 - 75 „ German Crowns „ „ Sarjir = 4'54 „ „ of Francis I „ „ „ Siccadokhtar =4 „ Piastres Eyne Turkish called Krushayn = 1'72 „ 100 Gaz = 1 Kran. The copper coin of the town hears a value usually of 1| gaz or so. Silver 5 krans are also circulated, those of Shiraz at their full value, those of Ispahan, Tehran only valued at 40 gaz. The Mahomed Shah Keran weighs 28 Nakhods. The water supply of Bushahr is very bad indeed. There is none at all inside the walls ; all has to be brought from outside. It is found at a depth of 1 2 feet all over the plain ; but in general is brackish, though in many places, particularly near the date groves, it is perfectly pure. The wells which supply the inhabitants of Bushahr are on a slight rising ground, 2 miles south-east of the town, and there the water is very brackish and has a purgative effect in all strangers, though after a time this power is lost, and then only at the springs is its taste recognised to be different from pure water. It is not uncommon to have dug 30 feet in some places before water is reached, three layers of soft stone being passed through. The quantity, however, is unlimited. The price of water in Bushahr ranges from 10 to 25 kerans per donkey-load according to the quality. A force landing on the peninsula in presence of an enemy could obtain sufficient water for immediate wants from the island of Karak. Water of good qua- lity and sufficient quantity for a large force is to be found at the village of Jufra, 1| miles south of the town. Colonel Pelly, in his " Report on the tribes, trade, and resources of the Persian Gulf," gives very ample returns of the trade of Bushahr. He formed them by taking the opinions and estimates of several traders upon the details of trade at the ports and concerning the articles in which they were severally interested. These estimates were then reviewed by an ex- perienced and intelligent member of a long-established European firm, and subsequently considered by the Head Accountant of the Residency, and he therefore considers them, though not exact, yet sufficiently near approxima- tions to correctness, to prove serviceable guides. The exports from Bushahr are as follows : — Cotton ••■ •■• ... 60,000 Tabriz mds. Madder Root Raw Silk Gall-nuts Almonds Raisins Tallow Tobacco Rosewater Ditto Assafoetida Salep Gum, Persia Wool "Wheat Opium Ghee Cummin Seed Bees' Wax 100,000 10,000 j» 7,000 50,000 „ 50,000 30,000 120,000 6 to 20,000 Carboys. 15,090 Flasks. 3,000 Tabriz mds. 1,000 25,000 100.000 1,500,000 47,000 10,000 40,000 4,000 j» BUS Dates ... 20,000 Baskets. Gram ... 26,000 Tabriz mds. Carpets 5,000 Pieces. Wine 500 to 1,000 Carboys. Imposts AT BUSHAHE. To value of Rs. Cashmere Shawls ... 25,00,000 Coeoanut Oil ... 2,000 Preserves (Ginger) 5,000 Sealing Wax ... 1,000 Alum 5,000 Piece Goods, Europe ... 6,00,000 Tarn, Europe ... 35,000 Flints for Guns 6,000 Lead 7,000 Tin, pigs 70,000 Tin, sheet 5,000 Stationery- 2,000 Leather 4,000 Spices 50,000 Pepper 50,000 Sugar ... 9,50,000 Sugar-candy 40,000 Tea 80,000 Camphor 2,000 Coffee 40,000 Black Wood ... 30,000 BrazilWood ... 4,000 Iron 10,000 Sal Ammonia ... 6,000 Drugs 7,000 Steel 3,000 Glassware 7,000 Candles' Wax ... 2,000 Gold Cloth 75,000 Zinc 4,000 Quicksilver 4,000 Sundries ... 1,00,000 Total Imports Rs. 41,06,000 An abstract of the Bushahr trade prepared last year is also subjoined : Exports to Eg. I Imports from Rs. Bombay ... 10,00,000 Java ... 3,50,000 Bombay ... 37,00,000 Jeddo ... 180,000 Java ... 10,00,000 The following tables show the exports and imports more in detail dis- tinguishing their destination and ports from which they came respectively. " The exports to England were (for year 1863) 64,000 Tabriz maunds wheat. This item, however, is much interfered with by the arbitrary prohibition of the authorities. ^ 89 H BUS " To the Mauritius the exports were- Wheat Dates Tallow ... Ghee Gram Eaisins Cummin Seeds Almonds . . . Mules Horses Sheep Tabriz maunda. 480,000 96,000 10,000 10,000 40,000 10,000 5,000 3,000 300 100 100 300 Value, Bom- bay Bs. 72,000 12,000 10,000 20,000 10,000 2,500 3,000 1,500 35,000 2,500 10,000 750 " The export trade with the Mauritius, however, were regularly carried on. It would, doubtless, increase if traders were not subjected to great inconvenience by the governors of Btishahr placing sudden embargo on the exportation of wheat. To Bombay- Cotton Madder Root Eaw Silk ... Gall-nuts ... Almonds ... Eaisins Eose water, Carboys Do., flasks Assafoetida ... Salep Gum, Persia Wool Wheat Ghasp Dates, baskets . . . Cummin Seeds Carpets (different qualities) Wine, Carboys " To Java- Wheat ... Cummin Seeds Bees' Wax... Gram Eaisins Bosewater, flasks Almonds ... Black Seeds Opium Gall-nuts ... Tabriz maunda. 250,000 100,000 10 s 000 7,000 50,000 40,000 10,000 10,000 6,000 1,200 25,000 100,000 300,000 20,000 4,000 4,000 200 Tabriz maunds, . 850,000 35,000 4,000 5,000 , . 16,000 10,000 8,000 8,000 8,000 3,000 Value, Bom- bay Bs. 7,00,000 55,000 5,00,000 28,000 25,000 20,000 12,000 2,500 20,000 6,000 10,000 1,50,000 45,000 40,000 2,000 2,500 1,000 Value, Co.'s Es. 1,27,500 21,875 30,000 1,250 8,000 2.500 5,000 5,000 4,00,000 12,000 GHEE.-The present annual exportation is very small owing to the dearness of the M*S^^l^.* mm6Bm am ° Unts t0 20 -000 maunds, B * YFBVIT -~ Th &>^: x lX\m™ a from 4,00 ° t0 12 '°° Ws > ™ luedat 90 BUS Dates.— About 30,000 baskets 'Bussord' and 3,000 baskets ' Lahi' are aA exported hence to Java, whereof value amounts to Bombay Bs and duty Es. 330. " To Aden and Jedda — Value, Bombay Bs Tobacco ... 28,000 Tabriz mds. 17,500 Bose water, Carboys 500 625 Wheat ... 32,000 4,800 Carpets 2,500 pieces 25,000 "Wheat 8,000 Tabriz mds. 1,200 Tobacco ... 7,000 4,375 "To Muscat— Tobacco 1,000 30,000 Wheat ... ... 80,000 12,000 Baw silk ... .. 1,000 50,000 Ghee .. 3,000 6,000 Bosewater, Carboys 4,000 5,000 Cummin Seeds ... 8,000 4,000 " To ports on the Persian Coast, exclusive of Bandar Abbass — Tabriz mds. B ™«V Wheat ... ... ... 80,000 12,000 Barley ... ... ... 48,000 4,500 Tallow ... ... ... 1,600 2,000 Myrtle leaves ... ... ... 4,800 750 Hardly anything is exported from Boshahr to other ports on the Persian Coast. " To Bahrein- Tobacco Madder root Cotton Ahlook (nuts) ... Nokhod (gram) ... Jafth (dye) Sugar " To Katif and Lahsah — Silk thread (untwisted) Carpets (different sorts) Wheat Tobacco "To Kowet— Tobacco Madder root Ahlook (nuts) ... Nokhod (gram) ... Carpets (different sorts) " To Basrah- Bice Madder root Tobacco 91 Tabriz mds. Value, Bom- bay Ha. 28,000 17,500 8,000 5,000 12,000 36,000 800 200 800 200 3,200 800 500 625 100 75,000 250 pieces. 2,500 32,000 4,800 7,000 4,375 14,000 8,700 2,000 1,250 3,000 750 3,000 750 500 pieces. 5,000 8,000 3,000 40,000 25,000 35,000 22,000 BUS Sugar (Bengal) Ditto (Java) English iron Tabriz mds. 14,000 14,000 6,000 Value, Bombay Bs. 10,500 10,500 3,000" The detail of imports into BQshahr from the various ports are as follows : ' From England — Crushed sugar ... Loaf sugar Flint stones Cotton goods of all descriptions Guns, pistols, gold and silver watches and chains English iron From Bombay — Cashmere shawls Copper Piece-goods (Europe) Sugar Tea Goldcloth '.'.'. .'.'.' "'. Tin-Pigs of — ... Spices Pepper Sugarcandy Coffee Yarn Blackwood Iron Cocoanut oil Preserves, chiefly ginger Wax, sealing "Wax candles Tlints, gum Lead Tin sheets Paper and stationery Leather Camphor Wood, Brazil Drugs Steel Glassware Zinc Quicksilver Sal Ammonia Indigo Value, Bombay Bs. 50,000 Tabriz mds. 87,500 16,000 », 40,000 400 cases 10,000 2,00,000 10,000 14,000 Tabriz mds. 5,000 10,000 pieces 15,00,000 60,000 mds. 3,00,000 6,00,000 2,00,000 mds. 2,00,000 2,500 boxes 1,00,000 75,000 14,000 mds. 70,000 s, 50,000 50,000 IS 50,000 25,000 » 50,000 20,000 », 40,000 40,000 1,20,000 », 30,000 13,500 1, 10,000 1,140 w 2,000 Value, Bombay Bs. 300 boxes 5,000 1,000 350 mds. 2,000 6,000 7,000 mds. 7,000 5,000 2,000 4,000 2,000 4,000 7,000 3,000 7,000 4,000 4,000 '. 2,400 mds. 6,000 100 boxes 1,00,000 N. B.— It has been found very difficult to obtain satisfactory estimate of the imnni-f trnflo _»i. t„j.'„ :„,. to the multitude of petty dealers and the variety of articles each of them deal in ve^ mall quantities * jeotuVd^Bustoe* 110 B ° mbay CU8t ° m H ° U86 ™ m ^^ " mUoh more oorroot estimate of « «"* could be con- 92 BUS Tabriz maunds. . 13,60,000 8,500 3,400 300 cases None. Value, Co.'s Rs[_ 17,00,000 8,500 8,500 2,250 " From Java — Sugar Cassia Coffee Bum Tin This article was formerly imported in large quantities, but the high prices in Java have stopped importation. " From Aden and Jedda — Nothing is imported from Aden. Osta Ghoddos (drug) Senna leaves Cassia Lime-juice (Carboys) Egyptian loaf sugar Dry Lemon Fathanee (Kutch leather) Chundles (Rafters) Cloves This article was largely imported some years ago, but the importation has gradually decreased, so that there has been none imported this year owing to its having got out of use in Persia. About forty years ago cloves were worth 40 kerans the Tabriz maund, and at present only 2j kerans. riz maunds. Value, Bombay Rs 2,000 3,000 4,000 1,000 4,000 4,000 200 400 2,400 6,000 20,000 25,000 8,000 12,000 4,000 4,000 None. Tabriz maunds. 5,000 2,400 Value, Bombay Rs. 6,500 3,600 Lamp-oil (Kutch manufacture) " From Karachi — Lamp-oil " From Muscat — Mat bags (Kofat) Empty rice gunny bags Coffee Pepper Bengal sugar Turmeric Sugarcandy Swedish iron Steel Hides of all kinds Tin Cardamoms Janpoor indigo (Sind manufacture) " From Bandar Abbass — Grind-stones Henna leaves Minab indigo A large quantity of Minab indigo going to Yezd through Bandar Abbass is the detriment of the Indian indigo. Being cheaper, it is preferred by the dyers. 93 2,00,000 40,000 2,00,000 35,000 4,000 10,000 4,000 5,500 28,000 31,500 4,000 3,000 800 1,600 4,800 3,600 500 500 6,000 3,000 1,000 5,000 150 3,000 4,000 40,000 150 pairs 200 1,000 Tabriz mds. 500 1,600 11,200 BUS : From ports on the Persian Coast, exclusive of Bandar Abbass — Pepper Coffee Cotton piece-goods (English) Tobacco Fire-wood Salt " From ports on the Oman Coast — Dry Lemons " From Bahrein — Empty rice gunny bags Madda mats Juddoo Date Sticks (Gorz) Khullas dates Syrup of date Canoas (Bahrein manufacture) Pearls " From Katif— Dates (Khunazee) Juddoo Date Sticks (Gorz) Ghil (wash mud) Madda mats Dates (Khullass)... Black Ghelan Abba (cloak) " From Kowet — Coffee (Malabar)... Pepper ( ditto ) Cotton piece goods (English) " From Basrah — Dates, baskets ... Kidney beans ... Date syrup Reed mats (Booria) Some clue, says Pelly, may be found to the trade of Bushahr in the terms upon which it is farmed by the Governor. For the revenue system through- out is one of farming, the terms of the annual contracts remaining a con-, stant quantity, while it is only the douceur that varies. The revenues of the Bushahr Government then are farmed for a gross amount of some 30,000 tomans, of which 15,000 tomans may represent the customs, and the balance octroi receipts and land and poll-tax from the tribes and villagers. Suppose the Governor to clear 10,000 tomans in the year, and 5,000 tomans more to stick to the fingers of underlings. Take the low rates of 5 per cent, (being that of the most favored foreign nation) as an average 94. Tabriz maunds. Value, Bombay Rs. 5,000 6,250 3,600 7,200 8,000 2,800 1,750 2,800 1,750 7,000 4,375 ... 12,80,000- 36,000 8,000 150 9,000 Tabriz mds. 11,250 ... 20,000 pieces 3,500 ... 10,000 „ 7,500 5,000 „ 1,200 200 bundles 80 2,000 baskets 4,000 3,200 Tabriz mds. 1,200 400 2,000 ••- ••• JI 1,00,000 1,000 baskets 1,000 3,000 pieces 750 2,000 bundles 500 ... 50,000 maunds 1,000 3,000 pieces 2,500 ... 50,000 Tabriz mds. 12,500 '..'. 200 2,000 4,000 Tabriz mds. 8,000 ... 5,000 6,250 1,500 pieces 18,000 ... 20,000 Tabriz mds. 50,000 ... 3,000 750 ... 3,200 1,200 ... 50,000 „ 12,500' BUS custom due on both exports and imports, and the gross value of the entire trade of Bushahr, so estimated, would amount to tomans 900,000, or about £450,000 sterling. . . Trade reaches Bnshahr from Batavia, Mauritius, and in part from India in square-rigged vessels. But perhaps the bulk of the Indian trade comes in native craft of from 100 to 200 tons burthen. A small portion of the imports are subsequently re-exported to otber Gulf ports in a smaller class of sea-going native craft. But the large bulk of it finds its way into the interior of Persia by mule caravan. After reaching ShirSz it divides ; a part passing to Yezd, and the remainder to Ispahan, with a sprinkling round these cities." The physical disadvantages of Bushahr as a port are considerable. It is a roadstead, only partially protected against the prevailing winds from the north-west. The anchorage is 4 miles from the landing place. Communica- tion with shipping by boat is always slow, either to or from the landing place, and is sometimes wholly cut off for days together during a strong north-wester. The port enjoys a management differing from ours. Boats cannot go off after sunset, nor move to land cargo until the manifest has been seen by the Governor. English trade is rated, under treaty, in and out, at 5 per cent, without further inland demand. But native trade loses on the import, as compared with outs, and, perhaps, in some articles, gains on the export, e. g., on exportation of corn. " The climate of Bushahr" remarks Dr. McAlister, " is almost insupportable^ and notwithstanding the prevalence of north-west winds, the heat is generally higher than in any other port with which I am acquainted. I have been cruising in the Bed Sea during the greater part of three summers, and I never found the heat so great, nor the humidity so oppressive, as I have found them in Bushahr. The mean temperature of the year in this place, in the open air, is about 90° Fahrenheit, that of the coldest months, January and February, being 7 3° Fahrenheit, and the hottest f August) being 1 6° in the shade. That of the ~ lowest temperature at any time in the year being 40°, which occurs always in February, and of the highest temperature at any time during the year in the summer being 150°, which always occurs some time in August. The annual range is about 11 0° Fahrenheit. " During the months of December, January, and February, beautiful white clouds are frequently seen resting against the face and often shrouding the summits of the hills or mountains situated to the east of the plain, which very often envelopes the plain in impenetrable obscurity ; nor do they fail even in making visits to the sea, particularly when the wind shifts from west to east and favors a move in that direction. These clouds are occasioned by the con- densation of the exhalations from the Gulf meeting or coming in contact with the cool mountain air. During the prevalence of the phenomenon, the inhabitants of the villages under the brows of the mountains, as well as those of Bushahr, are very subject to attacks of ague and rheumatism. During the same months, particularly December, lightning, thunder, and strong gales of winds are prevalent, accompanied occasionally by hail showers, and snow is seen during the same period on the second range of mountains bearing from east to north of the town. March is a pleasant month, neither too Cold nor too hot. April and May are uncomfortable and unhealthy, owing-, to the brightness of the atmosphere, high and stormy gusts of wind which I carry the impalpable particles of sand with which the country is covered." 95 BUS To the foregoing I will add the following table from observations made by Dr. Jukes in 1803 :— Month. January February March April May June July August September October November December Tempebatuee. Sun- rise. 53 62 65*. 72 80* 2 p. M. 85 82i 63 54 65 69 761 85| 93 98 100 95 751 87*. 75 651 62 63 67| 73| 82| 93 86! 78 68 63 Hemaeks. J Prevailing winds 'northerly; violent thunder and lightning on the 19th ; little rain fell during this month ; mountains white with snow. | An unusual quantity of rain fell this j month ; very tempestuous weather, with ( southerly winds. Pleasant weather ; a good deal of rain. f Pleasant weather ; northerly wind pre- vailing; f Distant mountains no longer covered with snow ; on the 31st the thermometer rose to 110° in a tent with a fly. Some rain fell in this month, and we had thunder and lightning. C No rain ; prevailing winds west north- < west ; light breezes beginning to blow from (.the land during the night. !No rain ; partly regular land winds after 9 P. M. till morning; prevailing winds northerly ; dews at night towards the end of the month. f No rain ; north-west winds prevailing ; J dews at night ; thermometer, one day ; in tents, up at 115°, with a south-east wind : V. exceedingly oppressive weather. f No rain ; heavy de rvs ; north-west winds (. prevailing. C A very little rain on the 12th; morn- j mgs and evenings at the end of the month (.pleasant ; winds variable, chiefly northerly. C Stormy, with thunder, lightning, and 1 rain during this month ; distant moun- J tains seen covered with snow ; at the end ^ of the month pleasant weather. ( South-easterly winds, and sometimes ■^violent; the weather, however, usually (very pleasant. 96 BUS Mr. Jukes states that he made observations on the climate of Bushahr in succeeding years, and found them nearly correspond with the above. " There are perhaps not less than seven or eight places of interment in the town, open on all sides, which also pollute the air to no small degree, nor is there any precaution taken in the interment of the dead to prevent this by sinking the graves even to a reasonable depth. In dry and windy weather the dust and flies constitute an almost insupportable nuisance. The months of April and May are two of the worst months for wind, dust, and flies, during which period ophthalmia is most prevalent, owing, in a great measure, to the brightness of the sun's rays at this season. On the south-west side of the town, the houses formerly extended to high-water mark, but there is now a wall or fortification which insulates the houses from the low sandy beach, which has always been and still is a great source of filth and disease. Here a host of impurities accumulate, and the almost unap- proachable place emits a deadly sickening stink along with eddying bubbles of noisom gas; and the mid-day breeze coming from the west carries the noxious elements through and over the town. Again, on south-east corner of the town, just outside the walls, is the slaughter place ; hence, here impurities also accumulate, not only from its being a slaughter place, but also from the decomposition of vegetable remains, dead donkeys and mules on which the rising sun exerts its power, and the morning breeze, coming from the east, conveys the noxious particles to the lungs of the inhabitants. " It is worthy perhaps of remark that the worst and most intractable diseases come from these two quarters of the town." Captain Wray, who accompanied the expeditionary force in 1857, considers " Bushahr to be in a very strong position ; its rear rests on a perpendicular scarp towards the sea, its right front and rear faces a high thick rampart covered by a deep ditch. It was then out of order, but a little trouble would have rendered it very strong. It is accessible in almost every part by severe climbing, but it could be scarped anywhere, and a few hundred Europeans or sepoys with guns could hold it against any force." However, Captain Jones, of the Indian Navy, takes a different view. " Mat and date constructed huts" he says, " intermixed with mud and rubble tenements and warehouses, seem to invite combustion, and while the absence of fresh water within the walls renders it untenable for any length of time, with an enemy separating it from its supply of this element, drawn daily from the wells situated about 1£ to 3 miles south on the peninsula leading to Halilah Bay. The northern spit of, this peninsula forms the site of Bushahr, surrounded on three sides by the sea, the fourth to the south being a swampy neck of land only about half a mile in extent. Directly across this neck from sea to sea, a crenallated wall of no strength with loop-holed towers defends the town on the land side. In the centre of this is the main and only gate, defend- ed by two rusty iron guns, and commanded by three 01 four others from an outwork abutting from the wall at about 300 yards on the west The Char Burj or citadel, containing the governor's residence, the prison and the public offices, stands at the eastern extremity of this wall on the land or backwater side of the peninsula. Here the town or flagstaff, and three or four field-pieces at its foot, convey the extent of the defences in this quarter. " On the west or sea face of the town, a recently erected curtain wall con- necting a series of circular rubble bastions forms but a weak barrier against 97 n BUS attack on this side; similar bastions as yet unconnected, but standing as isolated towers, turn the north-west point and extend on the harbour lace as far as its junction with the Char Burj. Each alternate bastion has from one to two field-pieces mounted on riclretty carnages. A powder magazine, for convenient explosion, holds a somewhat conspicuous position in the most frequented quarter. This is the whole system of defence.^ When the British expeditionary force was about to appear before Bushahr, the garrison consisted of 1 ,100 men of the Nihavand and Karadagh regiments, and a company of Azarbljan artillery and six field-pieces. In addition to these Captain Jones was of opinion that 2,000 of the townspeople might be reckoned on to aid the defence. " Such," he goes_on to say, " are the chief physical obstacles to encounter on landing at Bushahr, and light enough they must be deemed in comparison with the means at the disposal of Eu- ropean governments. The town, however, is better defended from direct attack by the shallows which will not admit of the approach of heavy ships. It is these natural obstructions to an enemy which cause confidence to the Bushahr people. To undeceive them, therefore, it is only necessary to send a small steam flotilla of heavy guns, mortars and racket boats, none of which should draw above 8 feet of water. Thus a bombardment would be effective, and a cannonade of two hours at most would either cause it to capitulate, or it might easily be stormed on two points and carried without further delay. A more dilatory and less certain plan would be to use the ordinary boats of a squadron, but small as the calibre of the guns of these are, and subject as they would be to the pitching and rolling motion of such frail vessels even in a slight ripple, the aim would be imperfect, and immediate success might be anything but complete. It should be remarked too that there are positions where gun vessels can enfilade the whole line of sea and harbour bastions without exposing themselves to the fire of more than a gun or two at a time, and from judiciously selected sites the land, wall, and penin- sula raked by a cross-fire of grape and canister-ingress or egress to and from the town might be effectually prevented. Thus cut off from fresh water, from support and from retreat, the garrison would be wise to surrender with- out striking a blow." The anchorage of Bushahr is in a road formed by two banks %\ miles off the town, having from four to two and a half fathoms at low water ; soft muddy bottom. The following directions will conduct a ship into the roads should she not be able to obtain a pilot ; but Bracks recommends a pilot being always taken: — " A ship coming from the northerly wind should stand along the bank extending off Bohilla Point in a line of four fathoms, until she gets the flagstaff to bear north 77° east, shipping in the inner roads north 41° east, or the Old House or Sand Island north 47° east (in doing which you will cross over hard sand), until the flagstaff bears east, Old House north 46° east, shipping north 39° east. (In crossing the hard sand, should a vessel decrease her water to less than two and a half fathoms, she should bear away more for the town, and haul up immediately she increases that depth.) When the above bearings are on, haul up at north 19° east, carrying soundings from two and three quarters to three fathoms, until the flagstaff bears south 45° east, Old House north 60° east, shipping north 62° east. You may then with the ebb-tide bear away for the shipping, keeping a good look-out for the point of the reef, which is nearly dry at low-water ; 98 BUS but should the flood be running', it would be advisable for a vessel to keep up about three quarters of a point to windward of the shipping, and bear away when the point is abreast of her. " A ship coining from the southward with a southerly breeze, may stand along the low land in a line of three and a half or four fathoms, until the flagstaff bears north 37° east, shipping north 12° east, house on Shaikh Shaad north 28° east ; then bear away north 4° east, until the flagstaff bears south 36° east, shipping north 52" east, Old House north 51° east. (In standing along this course, a ship will decrease her soundings at low water to two and a half fathoms, then increase to four and a half fathoms with the above bearings on.) She may then haul up for the shipping. " The marks for the shipping in the inner roads are given in case of it being two hazy to see the Old House on the northern end of Shaikh Shaad Island. " Anchorage bearings — Flagstaff south 16° east, house on Shaad north 51° east, eastern part of the tower south 25° east. Variation in 1827, 4° 12' west." Down to a period of recent date, Bushahr was like other ports along the coast, governed by its own Shekhs. Eventually the Bushahris fell out- with the neighbouring tribes of the DashtTs and Tungistanls. Persia availed herself of the dissension to press on Bushahr, establish a govern- ment there, and reduce both Dashtis and Tungistanls, together with some minor tribes, such as the Kohillas immediately around the Bushahr creek, to a condition subordinate to Bushahr. At the present moment the government of Bushahr extends from Dilam on the north to near Kongun on the south, embracing a series of petty tribes, both Persian and Arabic, living in their own circles of villages, and inter- fered with by the central government very much in proportion to their several means of resistance. The following list of the villages of the Bushahr district is from Colonel Pelly's memorandum: — Villages. Distant from pre- Tomans ceding place. Revenue. Eeshahr Miles. 1 1,200 Reshires 300 Halileh 1 300 Puladi's 100 Chaghudduk 4 from Eeshahr. 100 Kyedan 40 Toolisiyeh H 200 Behey 100 Gooreek s. 150 Mirshayaks 50 Chakoota 2 500 Dumooks 400 Ahmedy i 150 Benroomy 70 Housimekee i 150 Behey 50 Aboothuweel i 60 Bajlany 60 Bunder Eeeg ... 14 from Bushire. 1,200 Zoab 100 Angalee 6 ditto 600 Mushtoonee 60 Hyderee i 50 Hyderees sa Hufjoosb. i i 30 Amadheeny 3a Nowkal 2 20 Moomberry 20 Mahomed Kolee 1 20 Angalee ... 15 BUS Villages. Distant from pre- ceding place. Tomans Revenue. Residents. Houses. Miles. Deh-Now 1 30 Amadheeny 20 Borazjoon 10 from Bushire. 1 4,000 Borazjoonees 400 Bondarooz 100 Bondaroozee 60 or 70 Surkoorra i 3 60 Surkorrayee 40 Durcheetoo 1 4 30 Arab of Khurazsat 60 Chahkhaner 1 40 Khoosbabee 50 Esawendy 1 4 100 Ditto 10 Khooshab and Khoosh Khan 1 from Esawendy. 150 Khoosbabee & Kbooskbanee 150 Zeearuth i 3 600 Zeearuthee 400 Suffeeabad 2 600 SufFeeabadee 80 Boonar 14 100 Boonaree 70 Kolloll 1* 100 Kollollee 100 Deh-Kayed 2 700 Deh-Kayedee 200 Bargahee 1? 30 Bargahee 40 Geesukoon _ ... 4 60 Geesukanee 50 Zungenna and its districts 9,000 Abad 8 from Bushire. 350 Abadehy 150 Sunml 1* 300 Zungenna 160 Surkeweroon 7 1,200 Arab Lahsaby 200 Beyberrah 1 1,000 Zungenna ... 50 Dahlikee U 3,000 Dahlikee 150 Boodbilla 9 from Bushire. 2,200 Arab 100 Koorabund 2 250 Koorrabundy 80 Kaleh Sookhtek li 150 Arab 100 Aakerree 1 4 200 Ditto 100 Mohreezy 1 4 250 Ditto 150 Boostbemy i 400 Ditto 300 Chum Hulkau 4 100 Ditto 30 Village of Hajee Hijee 1 200 Ditto 30 Purrakole l 150 Ditto 200 Village of Nukhl i 300 Ditto 60 Gowabee i 250 Ditto 60 Mahomedy i 4 300 Arab 50 Mujnoon $ 200 Ditto 40 Eort of Sehran 1 4 100 Ditto 60 Zeera 12 from Bushire. 1,200 Zeerayee 30 Pooroodgah Thul-i-Serkoh Thul-i-Ali-Suffer i 1,000 paces 600 30 70 Dooroodgahy Zeerayee Ditto 200 20 25 Mahomed Abad lfur. 100 Ditto 50 Sehdeh 3 100 Ditto 15 Thul-i-Katel 1 70 Ditto *;■ 20 Amooyer Mezzer Aghayer Shuboonkarren 14 50 60 Mixture of several tribes' Zeerayee Shuboonkarehy 20 30 12 from Bushire. 3,500 300 Mukaberry 4 200 Arab 60 Chum Tungan Busry 2 14 150 150 Shuboonkarehy Ditto 50 40 Dasbty l 200 Ditto 60 100 BUS Villages. Distant from pre- ceding plaee. Tomans Revenue. Residents. Houses. Miles. Bunaree 2 300 Shuboonkarehy 70 Bunaree Suleymanee 1 150 Ditto 50 Dhurwehy Chehar Boorj ... 1 250 Ditto 50 Dhurwehy Pahrood i 3 1,500 Ditto 60 Thurkaky 1 300 Ditto 60 Boormabad i 80 Ditto 30 Seh Konar 1 60 Ditto 200 Genawehgoon 3 40 Ditto 70 Bomeyree 2 300 Ditto 60 Dehkoneh 1 300 Ditto 200 Zekeryayee 1 150 Ditto 40 Mahomed Jeamuly i 100 Ditto 30 Layeh Pah. A 3 50 Ditto 20 Shah Ferooz 3 4 50 Ditto 30 Dey Dharoon 1* 150 Ditto 40 ChahDhool 1 150 Arab 30 Ootheya 1 100 Ditto 30 Chehelgeree Arab 1 100 Ditto 30 Chehelgeree Ajem 1 200 Shuboonkarehy 50 Seemeh il- 150 Khedre 40 Khuleefeher ls- 250 Khaleefeher 60 Shooldhan 2 80 Shuboonkarehy 30 16 from 3,000 Hyat Dawoodee 100 Hyat Da wood Bushire. Beedhoo 6 80 Arab 25 Hoosoor 1 150 Hyat Dawoodee 25 Char Boosayee U 250 Ditto 50 Poozehgah 2 150 Ditto 25 Chehar Burj 2J 250 Ditto 40 Chehar Mai 1* 250 Ditto 40 Mai Mahmeed 3 250 Ditto 50 KahSuffur 1 100 Ditto 20 Kah Suffer 2nd 1 80 Ditto 30 Chem Shuhab 2 »0 Ditto 40 MalBawa 4 200 Saadut 40 Ahmed Seen 2| 150 Ahmed Seen 30 Abbassee 3 300 Hyat Dawoodee 30 Mahomed Sadi 2 250 Ditto 40 Genaweh 3 500 Hyat Dowoodee 150 Shool 5 ■\ C Ditto 60 Ahsham Abdali 3 [ 300 ] Shooly 20 Kottur i 2 Ditto 150 Kemalee 1 ) ( Ditto 80 Pehrawery 2 120 Hyat Dowoodee 40 Bahmyaree i 300 Ditto 250 Deelum 22 from Bushire. 1,100 Arab 120 Tungistan 1,400 [ Meeseegul Pooladees 70 60 Baghek 2 150 Pooladees 150 Zundabee i 100 Zundabee 100 Boneh Gez i 150 Darweishy 100 Soorukee 2 60 f Goothooee Jemanlee 40 100 Goolukee 1 100 \ Munseeree Jeidalee and Dashteas . . . 30 70 101 BUS— BUZ Villages. Distant from pre- ceding place 1 . Tomans Revenue. Residents. Houses. Miles. Chahthulkh i from Tungistan. 40 Zendheby 40 Goheenuk i 100 Goheenukee 100 Dilbar Mudhoomerry J * { 50 > 50 3 Mudhoomerry 100 Bashee 2 30 Bashee 30 Barekkee 1* 600 Barekkee C Dhoweroonee 200 Ahram 2J from Tungistan. 4,000 Included i Khurgesthanee (. Dehmeeyoonea Bahmyar £ 500 Khaweez 4 in above 4,000 Thul-i-Gorgoon Keshy [ 200 During the Anglo-Persian war of 1856-57, the troops under General Have- lock landed at Reshire, and Bushahr after receiving a few shells surrendered. The camp of the force was then pitched about 1^ mile due south of the gate of Bushahr. (Malcolm — Morier — Ouseley — Kinneir — Bruchs — Hennell — Jones — Winchester — MacAlister — Wr ay— Telly) . BtJSJAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 1\ miles south south-east of Birjan. It is situate on the west base of a bare gravelly hill, which forms the terminating point of a line of low hills projecting into the plain from east south-east. Below the village is an extensive line of gardens, vineyards, and fields, watered by a most copious clear stream from a canal. The trees are chiefly jujubes and mulberry : wheat and barley are cultivated in considerable quantity, and some beetroot and cotton and turnips are raised. The village contains about 200 families of Sums. The only manufacture is an oven their cotton cloth for shirts. BUTALI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 14 miles from Bushahr, and 15 miles from Burazjun. The country around is generally cultivated, but supplies are scarce, and water scarce, and mostly salt. BUZIA— A town in Khuzistan, Persia, 1 mile from Dorak and on the Dorak river. It is the chief place of the Chab Arabs, and is the point to which smali fishing craft come up for the supply of Dorak. (Felly.) BUZKOH. A range of hills in Azarbijan, Persia, which runs east and west in about lati- tude 37°45' from the Sahand mountain to longitude 48°40', when it splits into two spurs running paralled with the Caspian. It is a spur from the Savalan Dagh, and its length may be 120 miles. The people of the country know it by the name of Buz Goush. It divides the drainage of the Ajichai and Kara, Su from that of the Kiz Ozan. (Morier.) 102 c. CHIB ARABS— A tribe of Arabs who inhabit the southern portion of the plain of KhUzistan, Persia, whose boundaries are thus minutely described by Layard : — " An imaginary line drawn from above Wais, a village on the KartJn, to Khalfabad, a village on the Jarahi, and continued by the Zeitun hills to the Zohreh, or river of Hindiyan, on the north-east, the river of Hindiyan on the east, the sea on the south, and the Karun on the west. The tribes under the Shekh inhabit the right bank of that river, but do not extend far into the interior. They also occupy its banks from Ahwaz to its junction with the Shat-ul-Arab and both banks of the Bahmehshir to the Persian Gulf. The most important rivers in Persia thus traverse the country in the possession of this Shekh. The district occupied by the Chab Arabs is at the same time of great extent, and it is necessary, in ac- counting for the smallness of the population, to remember that the interval between these rivers is in general a complete desert, without any supply of water, except during the rainy season, and in the months immediately succeeding. The Chab Arabs originally came from Wasit and the marshes at the junction of the Tigris and Euphrates. They were buffalo herdsmen, and, settling on the Delta formed by the estuary of the Shat-ul- Arab and the Karun, they founded the town of Koffan. The country they now inhabit was at that time occupied by the Persian tribe of Afghans, and the town of Dorak was their principal settlement. The Chab Arabs, in the course of time, by treachery, and with the aid of the vail of Haweeza, succeeded in driving the Afshars out, and taking possession of their country which they have since retained. The following tribes acknowledge the authority of the Chab Shekh : — Division. Sub-division. Mesidence. Ali Boo Nasir ... ... ... ... Fellahiyah. Idris ... El Sakhereh ... ... Left bank of the lower part of the Ali Bu Ali. Ali Bu Madehi. Ali Bu Badi. El (Jhanam. Ali Bu Dalleh. Ali Bu Suf. El Haffadalleh. Thawame. Shileishat. Rabahat. Sowerlat. Rawajileh. Toweijat. El Feygal. El Koweiseb. Ali Bu Mahmud. Ali Bu Alafi. 103 Karun and Bahmehshir. CHA Division. Sub-division. Nasara ... Mohaisen Mejd-eddin. Khanafirah. Bl Matesh Asfer. Motuwwar. Buweisher. El Hallalat. Derarijeh. El Mahamid. Bert Mosahelor. Ebu Ali Basha. Morazijeh. Mo' a Wujeh. Bawi Motaridek Newaser. El Wasseyin. El Wurumi. El Ajajat. El Jebbarat. El Mosabbeh. Ali Bu Haji. El Awud. El Zerkan. Beni Khaled. El Omur. El Erkither. El Shamakugheh. El Berasbideh. El Ardan. Branch of the Beni Sherifat Beni Ersbed, Jemim Soleyzeh, El Farad, &c Haideri Hiyader ... Residence. Kigbt bank of the Bahmebshir and southern part of Mahamrah. Eight bank and lower part of the Kariin and the northern part ot Mahamrah. Eight and left banks of the Karon above and below Ismailyah and that village. Hindiyan, Deh Mala, right bank of the river of Hindiyan and Zeitun hills. Banks of the Jarahi, near Eella- hiyab. Pelly's list differs from the above sufficiently to induce me to give it also : — Albugesh, 6,000 adults reside near Buziah, their principal town. Asurkirah, 4,000 „ „ at Onshav near Buziah. Mukasebah, 2,500 „ „ at Anayetu more south and east. Albu Ali, 2,500 „ „ on a creek with no name. Sowayhat, 2,500 „ „ ditto ditto. Alinukadam, 4,500 „ „ at Kut near Dorak-al-Khuferah. Alkhunaferah, 5,000 „ „ on road to Dorak from Mabamrah. Banwi, 8,000 „ „ on the Jarahi creek and mouth. Zurgan, 8,000 „ „ on pasture grounds. Sharifat, 10,000 „ „ at Hindian and Deh Mula & on the plains. Amur, 10,000 „ „ wandering and pastoral. Benikhalid, 5,000 „ „ ditto ditto. Pelly considers these numbers exaggerated. These tribes are scattered about through the pasturage during winter and spring, and concentrate at or near Fellahyah towards summer for provisions and trade. 104- CM A The authority of the Chab Shekh does undoubtedly extend over all these tribes, when, in absence of aggression from other quarters, he has it in his power by superior numerical strength to enforce it, but the Bawis and Sharifats are large, powerful tribes, and consider themselves more under the protection, than under the absolute authority, of the Shekh. The Shekh, supposing the Bawis and Sharifats to be on good terms with him, might collect perhaps 7,000 men of his own, of which 8,000 are well armed with muskets and matchlocks, 1,000 would be horsemen, and 3,000 in- differently armed with spears and swords. The Bawis might bring about 1,000 horsemen, and perhaps 2,000 footmen without good weapons, and the Sharifats about 2,000 foot and 700 horse, or about 2,700 men. The Shekh has besides three small guns and a few dismounted ones at Fellahiyah. The Chab Arabs owe most of their importance and pros- perity to the celebrated Chief, Shekh ThSmir, who encouraged agriculture and commerce, and those engaged in such pursuits. Canals and watercourses upon which the cultivation of this country can alone depend were kept in good repair, and new works of the kind frequently undertaken. Caravans and travellers through his country were well pro- tected, and cases of plunder very rare. The annual sum paid by the Shekh to the Governor of Fars is only £1,700, but some pretence is generally found to exact a larger sum. Beyond the payment of this very small tribute, these Arabs can scarcely be consi- dered Persian subjects, and no local Governor or even Agent resides at Fella- hiyah, the head quarters of the Shekh. The greater portion of the Chab Arabs have now become Deh Nishlns, settlers in villages on the Karun ; they possess Wais, Ahwaz, Ismailyah, Idrisiyah, Mahamrah on the Jarahl, Fellahiyah, Jungeri, Bonei, Boneyzan, Boosee, Karerbah Kazee, Dol-et-Meer, Sederah, Attegeyzah, Hadamah, Boweiwar, Bihanah, Bonehbezan, Khalf- abad, and Cham Sabi, on the river of HindiyUn, half Hindiyan ; Deh Mula, Gurgeri on the sea, Bandar Mashur, and one or two other settlements. To these may be added other small villages scattered through the country. Many of them, and indeed almost all those that are on the Jarahl, are com- posed of huts built of reeds. Villages are daily rising, whilst others are as frequently falling into decay owing to consumption of pasture, destruction of watercourses, and other causes which must influence the state of an erratic population depending much on nature and little upon itself even for the common necessaries of life. The Chabs have lost much of the genuine Arab character. Their Shekh exercises a despotic power over his dependants, and the usual relation between an Arab Chief and his tribe no longer exists. The blood of the Chab has also become mixed, though not perhaps directly, with that of the Persian. They have frequently intermarried with natives of Shushtar, Dizful, and Behbahan. _ The inhabitants of Khuzistan, it is true, claim an Arab descent, but there is scarcely a family which has not a very marked mixture of Persian blood. Many refugees from the principal towns in the province have also settled in the territories of these Arabs, and many of the Chiefs of the mountain tribes have also frequently intermarried with them. The Chabs have become Shias. They are partly Persianized also in costume and habits, and the Sunis look down on them as degenerate. The other Arab tribes will not intermarry with them, but it is said the Chabs do not scruple to marry Persians, a great disgrace in the eyes of an Arab. 105 o CHA The most fertile spots in the territory of the Chab Shekh are those in the environs of Dorak and on the banks of the Hafar and Shat-ul-Arab. Here alone dates and rice are produced, and from these districts the Shekh derives the principal part of his revenues. Wheat and barley are only grown in scanty portions, scarcely sufficient, for the supply of the inhabitants in the immediate vicinity of the towns and villages. The rice harvest is in August and September, and that of other grain in April and May. The first is cultivated in those parts which are well watered by artificial canals drawn from the different rivers ; but the latter is chiefly dependant on the periodical rains for its nourishment. The north and west parts of the country afford tolerable pasturage ; and here the wandering tribes, which compose no small portion of the population, pitch their tents. Both banks of the Karun, from its junction with the Abzal below Shustar, are uninhabited, and consequently uncultivated and covered with brushwood, the resort of lions, wild boars, and other animals. Morasses are also common in this country towards Goban and the sea, and between Dorak and the Karun. The Chab country is watered by three rivers, the Karun, Tab and Jarahl. The Chabs possess large flocks of camels. The commerce of the Chabs is limited, and flows in different channels, according to the season of the year. Some of it reaches Mahamrah, and is mixed up with the trade of that port. The principal seaports of the Chabs are Bandar Mashur and Hindiyan. The trade of Chab, says Pelly, will always be confined to Chab itself and to the provinces of Shustar and Behbahan. The passes leading into the plateau of Persia from these points may possess strategic advantages, but they are not lines that trade could work to a profit in competition with Bushahr, Abbass, or Baghdad ; rice, corn, ghee, and the products generally of semi-pastoral and semi-agricultural tribes enjoying a rich soil, and fine water command might be expected from the territory contained between the Karun river, the Bakhtiari and Kohgezu mountains, the Hindiyan, and Bahmeshir. Dates of course may form an item and be grown, as also might cotton, over a large area. The Chab territory is by no means an easy one to traverse. In the rainy season the direct road from the Hafar to Dorak is quite impassable, and even the circuitous road by the Karun is almost equally so. And after the sub- sidence of the rains, this tract would be fatal to horses and men from the marsh insects and miasma. Grass is plentiful in the spring of favorable years, but in dry seasons nothing is to be got, for the chopped straw of the last year is exhausted, and the grass is too short, while corn is only found round the villages. The water, too, is brackish along the whole line unless when drawn from the river; that from the Hafar and Hindiyan is delicious, but the water from the Dorak canal is rough, distasteful and un- wholesome, especially in the summer months. The Chab territory is really tributary to Persia, and pays a considerable sum into the Shtlstar provincial treasury. Its element of greatest commer- cial strength and military weakness lies in the bountiful supply of water. It would be difficult to find a country of equal extent, where fresh water containing sufficient silt is poured along the plain in all directions, throul ttZt ?f fV me T S T d S °, C !f ly mana ^le. But it was by dammiK anS Seel t& Chat " *' "" ** *» P ™ flooded *» «>un£ 106 CHA CHAGADAK RIVER— See Ali-Changi. CHAHAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorassan, Persia, SO miles north north-west of Birjgn. It is situated in a bare, flat plain, impregnated with salt, and contains about 50 houses of one sort or another without and within the castle inhabited by Arabs. There is scarcely any cultivation about it : the water of the (karez) canal is brackish. CHAHTAR.— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Lehruwi sub-division of the Behbahan division of Khuzistan, Persia. {Layard.) CHAI PEREH— A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises in the range between it and Van, and flowing east past Kara Ziazin joins the Khoi river just above where it falls into the Aras. It is termed an "abundant stream." (Morier.) CHAK ARABI— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting place on the road from Bushahr to Burazjun in Fars, Persia. There are two wells of good water here. CHAKAVER— Lat. Long. Elev. A small fort in Yezd district, Persia, 50 miles east of Yezd. It is situated in a plain, and was erected for the purpose of guarding the only spring of water in this part from the Biloeh marauders, {dbbott.) CHALDERAN chaman— A plain in Azarbijan, Persia, a few miles from Kara Ainah north of Khoi. It is a favourite grazing ground of the Persians, and produces a great deal of hay. {Stuart.) CHAM— The principal village of the Zeittin sub-division of the Behbahan division of Khuzistan, Persia. It is surrounded with date trees which might here be cultivated with success, the plain around being very rich indeed. The village is termed Zeittin in the maps. It was formerly a large town, but is now a heap of ruins and almost deserted. {Layard.) CHAM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Persia, 8 miles east of Yezd, inhabited by Guebres. {Abbott.) CHAMAN-I-AUJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A fine plain in Azarbijan, Persia, 30 miles south-east of Tabrez. It was a favourite camping ground of Fateh All Shah, who exercised his troops on its wide expanse. It is also extensively used as a grazing ground. {Ouseley.) CHAMAN-I-AUJAN— A village in A.zarbljan, Persia, 60 miles from Miana, on the road to Tabrez, from which it is distant 30 miles. {Ouseley!) CHAMPEH— A village in Laristan, Persia, 12 miles from Lingah, on a road by a hill to Shiraz. Hardly any supplies are procurable here, but water from wells. {Jones.) CHAM SHALAILI— A plain in Khuzistan, Persia, on the banks of the Ab-i-Gargar, not far below Shustar. {Layard.) 107 CHA CHANDNI— A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, about 20 miles from Sulimania, on the road to Kasbin. It is described as a fine village. (Bastwick.) CHANGOLAR— Lat. Long. Eley. A river of Persia which rises in the mountains of Luristan, and after junction with the river of Badrae falls into the Tigris under the name of the Wadi below Abu Khanzirah. It was on the banks of this river, near the spot where it issues from the hills, that Captain Grant and Mr. Potheringham were murdered by Kelb Ali Khan. (Bayard.) CHANU— A village in the island of Kishm, Persian Gulf. It is a small place ; the inhabitants, about 70 in number, are weavers and wood-cutters. (Brucks.) CHARAK— Lat. 26°42' 52, Long. 5411' 16, "Elev. A village on the coast of Luristan, Persia, situated at the bottom of a bay of the same name, at the foot of the hills opposite the island of Kenn. It is a place of some trade, and has six buggalows, from 60 to 120 towns, and 20 smaller trading vessels belonging to it. It contains about 900 men of the Al Ali tribe ; about 360 of these are fighting men, the remainder being fishermen and traders. Supplies can be procured here as well as pretty good water. The inhabitants being of the same tribe as the pirates of Amulgaom were closely connected with them during the time they were in force. {Kinneir — Brucks — Petty!) CHARAK TAHEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on the banks of the Zer Afshan river, the principal source of the east branch of the Jagatu. It is the residence of the Chief of a branch of the Afshar tribe who resides in a small fort here. CHAR BASHEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village in the Yezd district, Persia, about 20 miles north-west of Aghda, situated at the foot of the hills some 7 miles south of the road. {Abbott.) CHAR BAZAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Pars, Persia, 4 miles north of Fahliyan, amidst well cultivated fields. CHARDAH KALA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorassan, Persia, close to the village of Chasmah-i-Ali. It is described as a picturesque village. (Bastwick.) CHARDANGAH— A name sometimes given to the Karun at Shiistar. (Layard.) CHAR-DEH.— Lat. Long. Elev. A group of four villages in Khorassan, north of Damghan. They are situated in the midst of gardens at the foot of some high rocky hills. Their names are Kala-ish, Zerdamox, Varasam, Harab-i-deh. The revenue is about £25 in money and 40 kharwars in produce, and they are bound to furnish 200 soldiers to the Government. Barley and wheat form the chief cultiva- tion, which crops, however, occasionally fail on account of drought when gram is imported from Astrabad. Some excellent bread resembling biscuits is made here. The inhabitants of this village are exempted from all taxes on condition of furnishing 800 men to the Regiment of Damghan, and in consequence of this immunity they are said to be very rich. 108 CHA CHAR-DIWaR— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in the Pushti-Koh district in Luristan, Persia, stretching north-west and south-east for 1 2 miles with a breadth of 5 miles, and inhabited by a tribe of Kizl Kurds incorporated into the extensive tribe Feilli. CHARDAORIS— A tribe who inhabit the valley of the JagatQ in Azarbijan, Persia, round Mahamadjik and Sain Kala. They are a nomad tribe originally from Liiristan, and were removed to Azarbijan and settled in this district, which was formerly inhabited by Afghans. Mahamadjik is the seat of the Chief. They are not reputed to have much courage; they are under obligation to furnish 700 horses to the Persian Government. {Rawlinson.) CHARFARSAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Kirman district of Persia, 39 miles east of Rinnan. It only contains some 8 or 10 families, and has some palm, orange, fig, pomegranate, myrtle and other trees about it. There are several other hamlets around, but all belong to the group named Char Farsak, and possess groves of date and other trees. It is also called Faizabad. (Abbott.) CHAR LANG— See Bakhtiarls, of which tribe it is one of the great divisions. ILayard.) CHAR-MAHAL— Lat. Long Elev, A district of Ispahan, Persia, situate about & days' west of Ispahan; a division of the Bakhtiarl tribes usually encamp here. {Layard.) CHARO— Lat. Long. # Elev. A village in Khuzistan, 12 miles north-west of Behbahan, situated on aD open plain. CHAR-TAGH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 9 miles from Nasirabad, situated in a pretty grove of palm, pomegranate and fig trees. {Abbott.) CHAR-ZABAR— A pass on the province of Kirmanshah, Persia, over the Kala Kazi range, be- tween the plain of Mahidasht and the valley of Kirrind. The ascent from the Mahidasht side commences about 4 miles from the Khan of Mahidasht and continues for 3 miles, the road being very rough and somewhat sinuous. There is then the plain of Zobeidah to be crossed for some 3 miles, then another ascent to the Nal-Shikan pass over a very difficult ridge of sheet rock and broken stones, ill adapted for the passage of laden mules, and indeed from its steepness affording but a precarious footing even to the unham- pered beasts. The Char Zabar and Nal Shikan passes may be pronounced almost insurmountable for artillery in their present state. Mahamad All Mirza, prince of Kirmanshah, fortified these passes and defeated the Turkish Army here on its invading Kirmanshah territory. It forms an admirable position for defence. {Jones.) CHASMAH ALI— A river of Khorassan, Persia, which rises in the Elburz range, south of Astrabad, and flows south past Damgan. The springs, however, at the source are more particularly called by this name. The springs issue from under an impending rock in copious streams of the most limpid water, which form at once a large stream. They were enclosed by Fateh All Shah within walls and towers, and are made to flow in a large oblong basin 600 feet long, 80 feet broad and 6 or 7 feet deep, across which 109 CHA— CHE the building has been erected. Both sides of the enclosures are planted with fruit trees and poplars, and immediately over the springs grow a large plane tree, and two aged and picturesque elms. The constant transition of water, its extroardinary clearness, and the great size of the basin, give the building a delightful freshness ; but the instant one goes without the walls, the whole beauty of the scene is vanished, and nothing but a horrid desert of dreary mountains is to be seen. Such is the magic of water in Persia ! This stream forms at once a respectable river, flows towards Damghan, and there irrigates the greater part of its extensive cul- tivation. The tank at the head of the river literally swarms with fish not unlike the tench, the largest weighing perhaps 2Ibs. These are fed by pilrims who come by thousands from Sari in Mazandaran, to which there is an excellent road. (Morier — -Holmes — Fraser — Fastwick.) CHASMAH BAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A spring in Khorasan, Persia, on the road from Astrabad to Damghan. It is celebrated through this part of the counlry, and indeed throughout Persia, as a phenomenon, it being believed by all ranks of people that as soon as a small stream of mineral water, which flows from the mountain, is polluted by anything unclean, such as the dung of animals, &c, the touch or impurities of unbelievers, the air is convulsed by a most violent wind, storms arise, clouds obscure the sun, and everything seems to threaten a total dissolution. This continues to range with unabated fury, until the members of a particular tribe, who are said alone to be able to make it subside, are called to clear away the pollutions and restore sunshine and harmony to the heavens. Fraser says he could not learn that any living being had actually witnessed the miracle. (Fastwick — Morier — Fraser.) CHASMAH SHAH HASN— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting place in Khorasan, Persia, 36 miles west of Turshez, situated on a stream of brackish but drinkable water. The encamping ground is to the north of the road. CHAWAN— A valley in Azarbljan, Persia, situated on the right bank of the Kalah Chai, near where it falls into the lake Urumla on its east side. The plain around is covered with salt from having been abandoned by the lake. There is a ferry of 3 boats thence to the town of Urumla (Morier.) CHEDAGHI— A tribe of Persia, whose chief place is Miana in Azarbljan. They are reputed to be very ferocious. (Morier.) CHEGHIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A valley in Khorasan, Persia, 18 miles west of Mashad, beautifully situated in the midst of orchards and with a stream of water running: through it CHEHL CHASMAH— & The sources of the Zendarud river of Ispahan, Persia, are so called. (Layard.) CHEHL MINAR— V ' ' One of the names by which the ruins of Persepolis are known to the people of Persia. (Morier.) CHEHL S1TIJN.— A palace at Ashraf in Mazandaran, Persia, built by Shah Abbas. It has attached to it a garden of eight acres planted with the most magnificent cypresses and orange trees, and surrounded by a wall 30 feet high and from 4 110 CHE to 5 thick, which spings from a mound of earth also about 30 feet high. On the outer side of this mound are many beautiful shrubs. At regular intervals in the wall are round bastions in which soldiers and attendants were lodged. The cypresses of this garden are more than 60 feet high and eight or nine feet in circumference, while the orange trees are upwards of 25 feet high and proportionately thick. A little care would render the garden a real paradise; for nowhere in the world, perhaps, are to be seen such cypresses and orange trees, nowhere is water of dazzling clearness more abundant, and on no more level ground could an ever- verdant sward be more easily maintained. It was probably in this garden that Shsh Abbas in 1627 received Sir Dodmore Colt as the English Ambassador. CHEHL SIT0N.— A palace at Ispahan which Morier thus describes : — " It is situated in the middle of an immense square, which is intersected by various canals and planted in different directions by plane trees. In front is an extensive square basin of water, from the farthest extremity of which the palace is beautiful beyond either the power of language or the correctness of pencil to delineate. The first saloon is open towards the garden, and is supported by eighteen pillars, all inlaid with mirrors, and (as the glass is in much greater proportion than the wood) appearing indeed at a distance to be formed of glass only. Each pillar has a marble base, which is carved into the figures of four lions, placed in such attitudes that the shaft seems to rest on their four united backs. The walls, which form its termination behind, are also covered with mirrors placed in such a variety of symmetrical posi- tions that the mass of the structure appears to be of glass, and when new must have glittered with most magnificent splendour. The ceiling is painted in gold flowers, which are still fresh and brilliant. Large curtains are suspended on the outside, which are occasionally lowered to lessen the heat of the sun. From this saloon an arched recess (in the same manner studded with glass, and embellished here and there with portraits of favourites) leads into an extreme and princely hall. Here the ceiling is arranged in a variety of domes and figures, and is painted and gilded with a taste and elegance worthy of the. first and most civilized of nations. Its finely propor- tioned walls are embellished by six large paintings, three on one side and three on the other. In the centre of that opposite to the entrance is painted Shah Ismael in an exploit much renowned in Persian story, when in the great battle with Suliman, Emperor of the Turks, he cuts the Janisry Aga in two before the Sultan." (Morier.) CHEMERAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 90 miles from Hamadan, on the road to Tehran, from which it is distant 97 miles. It is a picturesquely situated village built on a high rocky plateau, below which is a rapid stream. Water is plentiful, but supplies are scarce. The site is surrounded by high rocky hills. (Taylor.) CHENAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in Pars, Persia, situated to the right of the road to Shiraz, under the mountains, eight miles south-east of Abadeh. (Abbott.) CHERKASH— A tribe of Persia mentioned by Malcolm. He gives no clue to their numbers, locale, or anything else. (Malcolm.) Ill CHE— CLA CHERU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the coast of Laristan, Persia, between Nakhllu and Charak. {Felly) CHIGtTR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 3 stages from Maragha, on the road to Seraskand, from which it is one stage distant. It is situated on the Karangu. river. The vicinity is frequented by the Shekaki tribe, {Morier.) CHILIK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on the left bank of Tatau river, 20 miles south south-west of Blnab. It is irrigated by canals from this river, and has a most flourishing appearance. {Rawlinson) CHILIVAND— Lat. Long. ' Elev. A river of the Persian district of Talish. It is a clear shallow stream, about 20 yards broad, with a sandbank at its mouth. It is crossed between Astara and Hehir. (Holmes.) CHINARAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A valley in the north of Khorasan, Persia, inhabited by Kurdish tribes. {Chesney) CHIYANEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A villagein Solduz district, Azarbijan, Persia, in the valley of the Gader towards_ Ushnae. {Rawlinson.) CHUKLI—Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, in the valley of the Jagatu. It is of no great size, but is pleasantly situated on a small stream which flows down to the Saruk, and there is more cultivation around it than is usually seen in this desolate and sterile tract. It is the last Afshar village of any consequence towards the Kurdish frontier in this direction. {Raw- linson.) CHtTKU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 10 miles north-west of Abadeh, on the west of the road, and situated under the hills. CHtJL— Lat. Long. Elev. A tract in Azarbijan, Persia, situated south of the Saruk river, on the frontiers of Kurdistan. It is an uninhabited desert, and forms a sort of neutral ground between these provinces. {Rawlinson) CHUMI-ZAMGAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Kirmanshah, Persia, which rises near Gahwarah in the Guran country, and after a course north-west for 70 miles falls into the Abi- Shirwan at Gundar. {Chesney) CLARENCE STRAIT— Lat. ' Long. Elev. A strait in the Persian Gulf, between the island of Kishm and the main land of Laristan. The following are Brueks' directions for passing through it : — " Leaving Bassadore to proceed through Clarence Strait, weigh, if you have a fair wind, at slack water, and steer about north by east until you shoal into about five fathoms on the northern bank, when keep along about east in five to six fathoms on the edge of that bank, until you get the date grove at Drakoon to bear true south 26° east. This carries you safely past Goree, a shoal of hard sand, on which there is not more in some parts than a fathom and a half. After passing this, you mav steer alone the Kishm shore at a distance of a little more than half a mile, until Lucv's 112 CLA— DAG Peak, on the island of Kishm, bears south 44° east true bearing, when you are off the entrance of the narrow straits, or Khore Goran, when, if going through them, steer towards the mosque, keeping it a little open on your starboard bow. The soundings between the banks until you enter the jungle are five to seven fathoms. You must now be guided by your distance from, the shore, keeping most on the larboard shore until you pass the second opening or channel on that side, then keep rather nearest the star- board shore, or near to mid-channel, until you open into the main channel beyond Inderabia Fort on the Kishm shore. "To proceed through the main strait, or Khore Manaffee, you should keep rather towards the larboard bank in soundings of from six to eight fathoms, until you pass a dry sandy islet off the islands fronting Kammeer; then run along the island at a distance of a quarter of a mile, in soundings of from seven to ten fathoms, until you get to the end of it, when you will see the fort of Inderabia on Kishm, bearing true south 47° east; then steer for the extreme point of the island of Kishm, keeping in soundings of from six to fifteen fathoms. When you have closed to the Kishm shore, steer about east by south ^ south, until off the village of Peypusht, attend- ing particularly to your soundings, and not coming under six fathoms. You may now steer along the Kishm shore in soundings from six to twelve or thirteen fathoms at a distance of a large quarter of a mile until you come to the village of Durgaum. You must now steer out north-east by east i east to north-east by east : this will carry you out of the straits in soundings of from six to eleven fathoms." (Bruch.) CONGOON— See Kongun. CORBAL— See Kulbar. CORGO— See Korgo. COWALL— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 38 miles south of Shlraz. D. DABASI— A tribe of professional beggars in Persia. Their head- quarters are at Isfahan, from whence they send out their members all over the country. All are professed beggars and impostors, practising to great perfection the arts and deceptions calculated to excite pity. They assume the appearance of all sorts of ailments and bodily imperfections, and some go so far as to maim themselves in order to carry on trade to better advantage. (Fraser ) DAGHUM BEZAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Fars, Persia, between Behbahan and Fahliyah, and 45 miles from the former. It is without any cultivation, and is surrounded by the high mountains of the KohgilQ Mamasenni. There is here a ruined caravan- serai built near a spring of water. The soil is in general full of pebbles, 113 p DAH— DAM and it is only thinly sprinkled with trees. A few supplies and fuel are pro- curable. Monteith calls this Dagumberazan, and Jones spells it Dfikandan. (Chesney — Monteith — DeBode — Jones.) DAHAN ALHAK— A gorge in Khorasan, Persia, a few miles west of Abbasabad on the Tehran-Mashad road. It is a notorious haunt of Turkmans. (Fraser.~) DAHAN-I-ZEYDA— A defile in Khorasan, Persia, situated on the road between Sbahrud and Abbasabad, about 46 miles from the first and 35 from the last. It is regarded as a very dangerous part of the road from fear of Turkman raiders, and caravans always close up before getting to it. {Fraser — JEastwick.) DAH JAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, about 38 miles from Flrozkoh on the road to Tehran. (Eastwick.) DAKHOBAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 50 miles east of Ispahan. (Abbott.) DALAKU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 36 miles north-north-east of Bflshahr, containing 150 houses. Puel and forage are procurable, as are supplies and cattle, in small quantities. There is a spring of very clear water here which should be avoided, as it is impregnated with sulphur and naptha, and occasions cramp in the stomach. There is abundance of ether and good water. It is famous for its date plantations. The houses are made of date trees, but some of the better ones are built of mud and terraced. There is a clean mosque of white stucco and a small bath at the extremity of the village. There is also a small fort in the middle of the village. The Rohilla river is one mile distant. The village pays a revenue of 3,000 tomams. Dalaku is considered one of the hottest places in this country. (Ouseley Malcolm — Clerk — Monteith — Morier — Taylor — Felly ~ Jones.) DALAN — Lat. Long. Elev. A mountain in Persia, situated north-east of Diz Malekan in Luristan. It is described as lofty and precipitous. It is probably on the range of the Bakhtians. (Layard.) DAMBELU— A tribe of Azarbijan, Persia, who inhabit the district of Soker (?) west of Khoi. One of the regiments of Abbas Mirza was formed from men of this tribe. (Morier — Malcolm.) DAMGHIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khorasan, Persia, 180 miles east of Tehran and 50 miles south of Astrabad. This was once a very large city, and is said to have been 4 miles in circumference and to have contained 15,000 houses At present there are only about 300 houses inhabited ; large portions of cultivated laud f & TV\ den / 0C « u Py mu <* of the ground on which houses formerly stood. The streets of Damghan are planted on each side with the jujube tree. The citadel is on the west side j it crowns an artificial mound of earth, and commands both the city and the country. The walls of the town and several forts in connection with it are in ruins at several points When in a state of repair these works were quite strong enough to resist the attacks of au Asiatic army. D 114 DAM— DAO The river Chasmah All flows through the town with a stream of clear good water, and it is surrounded with gardens. The town is recognized at a distance of two or three miles by two minarets standing conspicuous on the unbroken view. It is at present little better than a mass of ruins, the extent of which denoted how large it formerly must have been. The Governor of this place and its adjacent territory gives the King annually one thousand ' kliarwar' of corn, which is produced in part from the cultivation of forty or fifty villages that surround the town. The river flowing from Chasmah Ali is the principal source of irrigation to these villages, to which is added another small stream and several ' khanats/ The ground here yields eight or ten for one, and the principal produce is corn. It has several remains of its more modern consequence in some well- built domes and cupolas, one of which is at present used as a mosque. It was ransacked by Jangez, and thoroughly destroyed by Nadar, and as long as the present government of Persia lasts, most likely will never rise above the rank of a large village. There is an old ark or citadel defended by patcbed-up walls falling to pieces, where with much care is preserved a house in which the present King was born. The region in which it is situated, though nearly on a level with Tehran, enjoys a pure and delicious air : over the whole extent of its immense plain scarcely a tree is to be seen, except a few near the villages ; the soil is hard and gravelly, and where uncultivated is covered with soapwert and the khor shutur. Here the want of timber for building becomes manifest, almost all the bouses being entirely roofed with arches and domes. Here, on 2nd October 1729, Nadar won bis first great victory, and totally defeated the Afghan leader Mir Ashraf Ghilzae with his army of 30,000 men. Here, too, the ferocious Zaki Khan, Zend, planted a garden witb Persians head downwards, and in 1796 the no less ferocious Aga Mahamad destroyed Shah Rokh, the grandson of Nadar, by pouring molten lead into a crown of paste put on his temples. Ferrier says there is only one difficult road to Mazandaran from Darnghan, but Eastwick, who took particular care to test the accuracy of this statement, says there are two good roads, by one of which Sari is reached in three stages, and both of which are much frequented. [Kinneir—Morier — Fraser — Ferrier — Cleric — Pellu — Eastwick.) DANA CHALL— Lat. Long. Elev. A river which forms the boundary of Ghtlan, Persia, and Asalim of Talish. It is navigable for three miles above its mouth, and has always 4 feet on the bar. DAOLATABID— Lat. Long. Elev. A small fort in Kirman, Persia, on the road to Kum from the east. It is surrounded by a village of buts composed of branches and reeds. {Abbott.) DAOLATABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Laristan, Persia, 48 miles from Khoramabad, on the road to Kirmanshah, from whieb it is 69 miles distant. It is a large village and affords plenty of supplies, and water is procured from springs and a stream. (Jones.) DAOLATABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kborasan, Persia, 12 miles west of Damghan. It is one of the prettiest villages in Persia, and has a good deal of cultivation round it ; is well planted with trees, and has a good stream of running water through 115 DAR it. There is a very well built little fort here, which has a triple wall and ditch, and has successfully stood many a siege. (Pelly — Gibbons — Clerk — Taylor.) DARR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, situated on a rapid stream, a tributary of the Jarahl river, 55 miles south-east of Shustar. (Monteili.) DARABGIRD— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Fars, Persia, about 150 miles south-east of Shiraz, and 87 miles north-west of Bandar Abbas. It has a fine situation on the banks of a river, and on an extensive plain interspersed with villages and cultivated lands, and is surrounded with groves of lemon and orange trees, which yield such an abundance of fruit that the juice is exported to every port of Persia. The cultivation of tobacco is also carried to a great extent, and such is its excellent quality that it is exported to Shiraz, and even to India and Arabia. This place has fallen from its former splendour ; yet although a great part of it is in ruins, it still contains between 15 to 20,000 inhabitants. The mountains on the north of it form an amphitheatre, the deepest part of which is about 1 mile from the town, which extends towards the two horns of the crescent. To the south rises at a short distance a long line of rocks, which at one part are sculptured on their southern face, and between them and the houses of the place is a small mud fort of no pretensions. The place possesses no elevated ground, and is in this respect wanting in picturesqueness ; but viewed from a house-top the scene is very pleasing, so great is the extent of the foliage. The palm or date trees scattered over so wide a space are numerous, but generally planted wide apart. The people appear to have neglected the cultivation of these valuable trees for some time past at Darab. It is affirmed that 50 years since the number of date trees was 100,000, of which only 30,000 remain. They are taxed according to their bearing. Offsets from them when transplanted become in the course of some years a source of wealth to their owners. Darab pos- sesses no bazaars but only a few shops, of which six are of linen-drapers dealing in English manufactures. The climate of the district is oppres- sively warm in the plain during the summer months. In winter snow is rarely seen there. The climate of the hills of coarse varies with the eleva- tions. The productions of the district are wheat, barley, zohret, suferd (a species of millet), rice, tobacco, sesame seed, and cotton, and the revenue is £6,300, raised amongst a fixed population of 2,500 families belono-ino- to this district. The soil is reputed of great fertility in many parts. & When rain falls m sufficient quantity, grain yields from ten to fifty-fold. The hills on the south side of the plain having no water are uninhabited. Iron mines are said to exist at 'Shekkaroo.' The district possesses plenty of flocks and herds. Of the former, which are usually black and brown or reddish as in other parts of Fars, goats are more numerous than sheep. The extent of the district is 50 miles west to east and 27 north to south. Darabgird was built by Darius the 1st. ( Kinneir-Malcolm- Jones- Abbott.) DAKA Ulb— liat. Long. Elev A pass in Azarbijan Persia over the mountains between the Aras and Tabrez, army (MoM) ^ ^ * "** W **&* hold ifc IP** any DARA-I-KALATAN— A valley in the north frontier of Khorasan. [Fraser.) 116 DAR DARA-I-SHAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A valley in Khuzistan, Persia, on the left bank of the Shor-ab, a little above its junction with the Karun. (Layard.) DARAKHT ANJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 18 miles north-east of Kirman. {Abbott.) DARAKHT ANGtJR— Lat. Long. Elev. A walled village in Kirman, Persia, 18 miles north-north-west of Kirman, with 500 houses inhabited by Persians. DARRAM— LatN Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on the left bank of the Kizl Ozan, situated in a beautiful and well wooded valley. There is a palace of the Governor of Zanjan here, where he passes a great part of the winter. The river at this point is only fordable when the water is very low, but a bridge has been erected over it. (Monteith.) DARA SHOR— A valley in the Kurdish district of Khorasan, Persia, between Shirvan and Burjnurd. It is said to be particularly unsafe from Turkman raids. (Prater!) DARBAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort on the right bank of the Sufed Rud, Tarom district of Khamseh, Persia, and forming the boundary between Tarom-i-Khal Khal and Tarom-i- Paln. It is placed on an isolated and most precipitous hill immediately over- hanging the river, and the country on this side of the river is of a most difficult and precipitous nature, so much so that travellers from Tarom -i-Pain to Zanjan are obliged to cross into Pusht-i-Koh below the fort, and then follow the left bank to a ford below Kishlak. (Rawlinson.) DARBAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Solduz, Azarbijan, Persia, on the right bank of the Goder river, and towards the Ushnae frontier. (Rawlinson.) DARAGAZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Khorasan, Persia, bounded on the west by Kalat-i-Nadar, north by Attak, and east by a branch of the Ashdur Koh. It is inhabited by the Chaparlu tribe, who are esteemed the bravest and most polite of the natives of Khorasan, and the soil is so fertile that dry gram yields a hundred and rice four hundred-fold. Fraser describes it as a noble valley, perhaps 50 or 60 miles long, divided longitudinally by several ridges of rocks, and studded everywhere with fine large fortiBed villages surrounded with gardens. It forms a small ' khanat' towards the Turkman frontier, and the Chief has to maintain a contingent of horse in readiness to repress their raids. (Fraser.) DARFEK— Lat. Long. Elev. 10,000. A mountain peak of the Elburz range, Persia, situated in Ghilan, south-south- east of Resht. Eastwick says it is a grand feature in the landscape rising from the plain. On the top are said to be caverns in which the ice never melts. (Eastwick) DARGAM— A village on the north coast of the island of Kishm between Laft and the town of Kishm. It is a fishing village, and has about 120 families, who are very poor. (BrucJcs.) 117 DAR— DAS DARIACHTE— Lat. Long. Elev. A salt lake in the province of Fars, Persia, in the neighbourhood of Shlraz. (Chesney.) DARIA-I-NEYRIZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A large lake in the province of Ears, Persia, about 10 miles east of Shlraz.. The length of it is about 60 miles, with a breadth of perhaps 3 to 5 miles. The water of this lake is almost entirely derived from the river Kur, better known as the Band Amir. In dry summer season the water is entirely evaporated, and its bed may then be traversed on foot, and the inhabitants then take the opportunity of collecting the salt with which its bed is en- crusted, and which is esteemed remarkably fine, and is in general use throughout Fars. Its banks are often completely whitened by the presence of innumerable water birds, chiefly swans and flamingos, which latter also may be seen wading far into the water in search of their prey. The oyster- catcher is seen abundantly, but is very timid. The water is extremely saltish. The shores have no sandy beach, but soft fine mud, and no shells are to be seen on it. The inhabitants say that it contains no fish or any living animal, but it is not improbable that in the mud are found polypi and other living creatures, upon which the birds feed. {Abbott.) DARIA-I-NIMAK— See Daria-i-Nayriz. DARIA KABIR.— Lat. Long. Elev. A salt lake or marsh in Irak Ajami, Persia, which extends between Kum and_ Tehran east and west for about 150 miles, and has a breadth of 35 miles in some places. The roads through this morass are not easily distinguished, and the unfortunate wanderer runs the risk of either perishing in the swamps or dying of thirst and heat. (Kinneir.) DARIS — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 10 miles from Kumarij and 5 miles from Kazlrun. It was formerly a considerable town, but now is in ruins and has only a few inhabitants. (Jones.) DARISTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village in Irak Ajami, 24 miles south-south-east of Kum. DAROGH.— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 53 miles north-west of Farah, and 42 miles south-east of Biijan. It is a considerable place in the midst of cultivation. It is walled, and has 300 houses inhabited by an agricultural population and shepherds of the Arab race. (Immsden.) DARZIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Bam, Kirman Persia, 16 miles from Bam, on the road from Khubhes, from which it is 55 miles distant. It consists of a few ruined hovels, but there is a good deal of cultivation round it. (Abbott.) DAS — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 118 miles south by the road from Kirman. DASHGESAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, situated one mile from the east shore of lake Urumla. It contains 20 miserable houses made of a patchwork of tufa stone and fragments of marble stuck together with mud. It is situated close to the celebrated marble quarries of Maragha. (Wagner.) 118 DAS DASHT-ABBASS— Lat. Long. Elev. An extensive plain in KhQzistan, Persia, on the Ab-i-Ala river, and to the south-east of Patek, from which it is divided by a low ridge. [Layard.) DASHT GIRD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 7 miles south of Tabbas. It is situated in a plain, and inhabited by about 40 nomadic families. This place being much exposed to inroads from Turkmans and Afghans has a small fort. DASHTI— A division of Fars, Persia, situated to the south-west of Shlraz. It includes the villages of Pusekvin, Dekekiin, Kuzerak, Bushkan, Senim Shombeh, Thalek, Keleme, Kankey, Sarmastan and Berdistan (its seaport) . It produces wheat, dates, barley, and cotton. There are 4,000 or 5,000 matchlockmen in Dashti. The Chiefs are endeavouring to improve Berdistan. During the last 40 years the Dashtis have on three or four occasions attacked Kongun, plundered and killed a number of people, and induced the others to settle at Berdistan. This does not seem to be the same district as Dashtistan. [Petty.) DASHT-I-ARZAN— Lat Long. Elev. 6,600 A plain in Fars, Persia, 45 miles west of Shlraz, across which lies the main road from Bushahr. It is about 3^ miles broad by 7 miles long. In summer it is said to be very verdant and afford good pasturage, but in winter it is very bleak, and the cold is intense. The centre of the plain is very swampy, and there is always abundance of water and forage. It is said formerly to have been the bed of a lake. The plain of Dasht-i-Arzan has evidently within a recent period been the bed of a lake; indeed half of it is still a marsh. It is bounded on the south by limestone rocks in irregular masses, divided by valleys filled with dwarf oak and hawthorn, on the east and west are lime-stone cliffs about 200 feet high, and on the north sandstone and gypsum. The soil is a black alluvial deposit. The valley is remarkable for its ample supply of water, for its verdure, and for its being a favourite haunt of the nomades during the warm season. In spring there is a good deal of grass on this plain, and fuel is always procurable. The climate, however, is said not to be good, fever being prevalent, and a serious cause of irritation existing in the very numerous and venomous serpents which abound in it. [Monteithi—Ousely — St. John — Colville — Petty — Jones.) DASHT-I-BIL— Lat. Long. Elev. A wide plain or table land about 20 miles south-south-west of Urumia in Azavbijan, Persia, inhabited almost entirely by nomadic Kurds of very fierce and lawless charaefrr. [Praser.) DASHT-I-BIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A valley in Fars, Persia, lying between the passes Kotal-i-Pir-Zau and Kotal-i-Duehtar on the road from Bushahr to Shlraz. It is from 4 to 5 miles in width, and is well wooded in its area and sides with oak, some of very considerable size. It must be of considerable elevation as Rich found the night air very cold there even in July. [Rich — Colville — Felly.) DASHT-I-BIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, on the road from Bam to Kum, consisting of a few mud and reed huts and a ruined mud fort. [Abbott.) 119 DAS— DEH DASHT-I-PIIZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in Khorasan, Persia, 90 miles on the road from Blrjan to Mashad. It contains about 100 families of Kizlbashes and belongs to Kazvln. Its products are fruit, silk, cotton, and opium. Near the principal mosque there is a magnificent plane tree about 12 feet in diameter. The village is surrounded by a garden of mulberry and fruit trees. DASHTISIAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Fars, Persia, on the Flrozabad road to Shiraz from Pmshahr, and between the former and Farashband. It is without villages, but the nomades resort to it in winter on account of its mild and agreeable climate, and the springs of good water which exist. Supplies of all kinds may be readily obtained from the nomades. (Junes.) DASHT-I-STAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A large plain in Fars, Persia, which stretches between the hills and the sea north and east of Bushahr, from the Khisht river as far as Kongun from north-west to south-east, a distance of perhaps 70 miles with a breadth of from 10 to 25 miles. It is inhabited principally by Arabs, nominally subject to the government of Fars. Its fertility beyond the immediate vicinity of Bushahr is considerable, producing abundant crops of wheat and barley. It has some very large villages within its limits, viz., Khormij, Tangistan, Samal, Borazjtin and Dalaki. The inhabitants are said to be very vicious but very warlike. (Petty — Winchester!) DASHT-SHANU— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village in the district Turshez, of KhorasaD, Persia, about 4 miles from Turshez, enclosed with high mud walls and surrounded by gardens and orchards. (Clerk.) DAtJLUlN— Lat. ' Long. Elev. A village in Luristan, Persia, east of Luristan, on the road to Bandar Abbass. (Chesney.) DAWATGAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, 44 miles from Tabrez on the Tehran road. There is no village here, but a fine karavansarai of Abbas the Great] the rooms of which however are dark and dirty and full of fleas. (Eastwick ) DEH ARMANI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Luristan, Persia, 18 miles from Khoramabad'on the road to Ispahan, from which it is 118 miles distant. A few supplies are procurable, as is water from springs. The village is inhabited by Armenians. (Jones.) ° DEH BAKRI— Lat. Long. Elev A village in Kirmau, Persia, 17 miles south-west of Bam," and 133 miles south-south-eastof Kirman. It is situated in a broad valley in the sub district of Sardu, and is surrounded with cultivation. It is inhabited in summer, but deserted in winter when snow falls. The hills all around are covered with dwarf oaks and the bed of the stream of the valley is filled with oleander and other shrubs. (Smith.) DEH BID— Lat. Lone Elev. A village m Fars, Persia, 93 miles from Shiraz, 140 from Lmahan and 99 from Yezd. There is a caravanserai here with plenty of villages in the neighbourhood. Supplies and fuel are procurable. It is considered a 120 DEH very cold place. There is great difference of opinion about the water- supply here. Jones says it is procurable, Clerk says there is a moderate supply of water from a small stream, but Sutherland says the only water is con- tained in a dirty pond about 15 feet in diameter. {Jones — Morier — Clerk — Sutherland^) DEH CHINAB,— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Zerend district of Kirman, Persia, 52 miles north-west of Barman. DEH DA.SHT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, 26 miles north-east of Behbahan, situated in a rich valley. DEH DASHT— Lat. Long. Elev. A small rich valley on the west side of the Bakhtiari mountains in Persia, north of Behbahan in Khuzistan. {Layard.) DEH DASTEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 4 miles east of Pasa, situated in a plain and possessing a few date trees about one mile off the main road. {Abbott.) DEH DASHTEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Pars, Persia, one mile south of Fasa. It has some date groves round it (Abbott.) DEHEK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ispahan district, Persia, 48 miles from Ispahan on the road to Kirmanshah by Khoramabad, from which last it is 90 miles distant. It is a large village and has a fortalice. Supplies are plentiful and water is pro- cured from springs. (Jmes.) DEH-GERDtJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, on the road between Shiraz and Yezdl Khast. DEH HASAN ALI KHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, north-west of Shiraz and not far from Fahlian. It is situated in a valley which produces oak, fine walnut and other fruit trees, especially large standard apricots. (Chesney.) DEH-I-AIH— Lat. Long. Elev. A ruined fort in Fars, Persia, said to have formed the citadel of the Chief of Darabjard. It consists of an extensive piece of ground, enclosed within a ditch extremely wide and deep, and a bank or rampart of earth proportionally high, in the middle — a huge, rugged, insulated rock, rising like a mountain. In the sides of the rock are several caves, some natural and others probably artificial. In another part of the enclosure are several large and rude stones forming a cluster irregularly cluster-like the Druidical stones of Britain. (Ouseley.) DEH-I-MAHAMAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 30 miles north-west of Tabas. There is a capital serai here ; some Hindu, shop-keepers ; good water ; grain and forage, and about 100 houses. DEH-I-NIMAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 80 miles east of Tehran and 26 miles south- west of Lasgird. There is caravanserai here, and some little cultivation. The water is very brackish and smells like stale fish, and is collected in large brick reservoirs near the caravanserai Shah. There is a mud fort here which was falling to pieces in 1843, and a small clean post station. 121 Q DEH To the south of this place there are some salt marshes in which people are sometimes lost in attempting to cross. The place is extremely hot. (Eastwich — Felly — Clerk — Gibbons.) DEH-I-NtJN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 74 miles from Turshez, on the road to Shahrfld. It is surrounded by a wall. (Cleric.) DEH KAYED— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bushahr district of Fars, Persia, 74 miles from Bushahr, and 18 miles from Glsakhan. It has 200 houses, and pays 700 tomans revenue. (Petty.) DEH KEHUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the province of Kirman, Persia, situated in the plain of Rudbar, and possessing a small fort. DEH KOHNEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bushahr district of Fars, Persia, 65 miles from Bushahr. It has 200 houses, and pays a revenue of 300 tomans. (Petty.) DEH KURANG— L*at. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, on the east shore of lake Crtimla, 35 miles south-south-west of Tabrez. It is encircled by a mud wall, the interior being as much occupied by trees and gardens as by houses, and being also surrounded by gardens and orchards. The approaches to it are very pic- turesque. It is one of the richest villages in Azarbljan, and is the capital of a small district, which is wonderfully productive of all sorts of fruit, particularly grapes, pears and peaches, the two last of which rival those of Ispahan both in size and taste, while the best wine made by the Armenians of Tabrez is from the former. The surrounding district is one of the best foraging countries in Persia. There are also some fine planta- tions of poplar and plane trees, the usual materials for the wood-work in Persian buildings. The gardens of this district are mostly the property of Tabrez merchants, who have either planted them or purchased them on speculations; they pay the Government tax of a "panabad" (about 6d.) on each "tenaf (18 square yards), and for the labour of cultivation they either allow the villagers a fifth of the produce, or hire them at the rate of 6d. a day for each man. It was the scene of a conference between Count Paskewitz and the Prince Royal of Persia after the occupation of Tabrez by the Russians, during the War of 1826, and the district formed the head-quarters of the Russian cavalry. (Bawlinson — Morier — Montgomery.) DEH MALIK— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village in the sub-district of Gowk, Kirman, Persia, and about 3 miles south-east of that place. (Abbott.) DEH Ml) LA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 13 miles south-west of Shahrud. It is fortified and contains about 250 houses, surrounded by highly cultivated grounds and gardens irrigated by a brackish stream which is not drinkable. About 1 mile beyond Deh Mula, there is an excellent stream of water near the caravanserai shah, which is loopholed and capable of being defended against any sudden attack. In the small mountain range, about 122 DEII 4 miles south of Deh Mula are mines of gold and copper. This^ village pays a revenue of 2,000 tomans and 500 ' khar wars' grain. (Stuart — Eastwick — Petty.) DEH NAO— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, 14 miles west of Shushtar, only remark- able on account of a large mound near it of great age. (Layard.) DEHNEHGAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in the province of Kirman, Persia, between Kirman and Khubbes and north-west of the first place. It is described as an easy road, practicable for guns, but not much used on account of its being frequented by Biloche marauders. (Abbott.) DEHNEH MAZAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the pass of Kirman, Persia, on the road by the Dehnehgar pass from Kirman to Khubbes. (Abbott.) DEH-NU-BALA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 4 miles from Saidabad on the borders of the Keffeh Salt desert.— {Abbott.) DEH-NtJN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ispahan district, Persia, 6 miles from Ispahan on the road to Yezd. No supplies are procurable. {Abbott). DEH-NTJ-PAIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village in Kirman, Persia, 8 miles west from Saidabad, about 120 miles, south-west of Kirman, and on the borders of the Kefeh Salt desert. — {Abbott) . DEH-PESH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, situated on the right bank of the Rud Khaneh Su river in the plain of Rudbar. (Abbott). DEH-REZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village in Fars, Persia, 7 miles north-north-west from Kumarij, 7 miles from Kazirun. All the houses have arched roofs. Though now a small place, it must once have been a large town judging from the extent of the ruins. — {Clerk — Ouseley — Morier) . DEH-RTJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 75 miles from Bushahr on the road by the Haft Mula Pass to Firozabad. It has a fort and 250 huts, and water is procured from wells. — {Petty). DEHRUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Nishapur district, Khorasan, Persia, 16 miles east of Nishapur, 34 miles west of Mashad. It is a large village containing from four to six hundred houses situated in a most picturesque position at the extremity of a gorge of the Mirabi mountains, and surrounded by beautiful gardens and a multitude of aged plane and other trees whose spreading foliage affords a most delightful shade ; abundant and excellent water flows on every side. It pays a revenue of about £ 500 to the State. {Clerk — Perrier — Eastwiek.) DEHRUM.— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 63 miles from Kongun on the road to Firozabad, from which it is 33 miles distant. It is situated at the foot of high mountains. There are some date groves near the village. There is a stream of brackish water here, but sweet water is procurable from wells. (Jones). 123 DEH— DEM DEHSIS— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khamseh, Persia, 6 miles from Zanjan on road to Sultania from which it is 18 miles distant. It is a well built village with walls and towers all round and a small citadel on the centre. The vegetation round is extremely luxuriant and rich. (Morier.) DEH-USHTAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 2 miles north-west of Bam, situated on the right bank of the Tehrud. {Abbott.) DELICHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 110 miles east of Tehran. There is a small fort erected on the bank of the Delichai river. (Ouseley.) DELI CHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A river in Irak Ajami, Persia, flowing from the Firoz Koh mountains. It is so called, on account of the violence with which it flows in the spring. (Morier.) DELI NAZAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ears, Persia, 46 miles south of Abadeh, on the road from Shlraz to Ispahan. The water at this place is clear and good. (Ouseley.) DELUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the right bank of Ab-i-Alar and near its source. (DeBode.) DEMAVAND— Lat. 35°50' Long. 52° Elev. A lofty peak on the Elbtirz range between Irak Ajami and Mazandaran, Persia, situated 40 miles north-east of Tehran, and 45 mdes south of Caspian. The mountain is of volcanic origin, being composed entirely of such materi- als as volcanoes throw forth, pumice stone, dark basalt, and the cone for about 100 feet from the top is entirely composed of a soft rock from which pure sulphur is dug, while there are hot springs at its base. These all show that it not only was in former times the mouth of an extensive vol- canic district, but that its fires are not yet extinguished, and that they may again be lit up and its action whether by earthquake or eruption may cause most extensive change on the surface of this part of the country. Mr. W. T. Thomson, of the Tehran Embassy, effected the ascent in 1837, and slept one night in a cave near the top. This is of small dimensions, having two divisions, the inner one which is the largest will not contain more than five or six men, and in it the temperature is very high, so much so that in one corner the hand cannot be borne exposed to the hot current of air which flows from the rock, and the whole of the floor is highly heated. Thomson from the superstition of the Persians rendering it very difficult to get guides and porters was only able to remain on the top one night. He recommends that any one attempting the ascent in future should do so in a moonlight night in July, when the weather is warmer, and by leaving the cave at the foot of the hill about 12 p. m., he would be able to pass nearly the whole day on the summit, without exposing himself to the noxious and heated vapour of the cave. In the neighbourhood of the village of Garmab, the highest on the south side, are the hot springs of Garmsir, the hottest of which shows a temperature of 148° Fahrenheit. The geological formation of this mountain, immediately about Garmab would seem to be a deposit of calcareous tufa : above this occur beds of sand- stone of the coal formation, with one seam of coal of inferior quality ~for about 1,000 feet, then limestone for a thickness of nearly 1,200 feet : above 124 DEM this again greenstone coloured with iron to within 100 feet of the summit, which is a deposit of pure sulphur. Coal is also found on this mountain, which Pelly says is of good quality, and is always used at the Embassy at Tehran. In the lower half of the mountain the rocks consist principally of limestone. Long high ridges, commencing at the foot of the cone, run out for some distance and end abruptly, leaving between their deep valleys and ravines, covered for the most part with loose stones, gravel and earth. Here and there huge volcanic rocks pierce through the outer covering. In ascending the upper part of the mountain, the first thing necessary is to climb a narrow and very steep ravine covered with loose stones, which, yielding under the foot, make walking difficult and painful. Beyond this, and nearly at right angles to it, is another ravine filled with snow. After it is crossed the ground, though still very steep, becomes more practicable, consisting of a firm reddish soil on which grow numerous and various plants. Near the foot of the cone, at a height of nearly 13,000 feet, vege- tation ceases. At a distance the cone appears to be nearly smooth, and to slope evenly from top to bottom at an angle of 45°, but is found, when approached, to consist of a number of ridges which run from the summit to the base, and are separated by deep ravines full of snow and ice and large accumulations of debris. The ascent is now made over rocks of lava and basalt, broken up into a thousand shapeless masses piled in confusion. At length a long ridge is reached, evidently formed by a stream of- lava which has run over the surface, and left it so smooth and steep that it is difficult to maintain a footing. The best part of the ascent is up a steep slope, among rocks of a light yellow color formed of limestone and sulphur. The cone terminates in a crater 85 yards in diameter, and nearly surrounded by jagged rocks composed partly of basalt and partly of sulphur and limestone. The basin within is almost entirely filled with snow. From two caves near the sum- mit, and many small holes in the rock, a stream strongly impregnated with sulphur issues. Very severe earthquakes are sometimes felt in Demavand. Morier mentions having had a strong shock whilst residing there in June in 1814 ; and nine years before that they were so violent and repeated, that many villages in Mazandaran were totally destroyed, and all the country around thrown into a great state of alarm. Snow lies upon the mountain all the year round, but only in large patches, parts of its extreme summit being totally uncovered. It does not look so high as Ararat, although its cone is much more abrupt, nor does it in any manner rest upon so extensive a base. No Persian ever appears to attempt the ascent, and they used to assert that the attempt was hopeless till accomplished by Mr. Thomson, and since then by other members of the Russian and English Legations. Those who seek for sulphur, which is found at the highest accessible point, go through a course of training previous to the undertaking, and fortify themselves by eating much of garlik and onions. At about five miles in a direct distance from Demavand is a lake, apparently formed by the waters of melted snow, which have accumulated in a valley without an outlet ; it is situated at a considerable height above the town of Demavand, in the basin of some very craggy mountains, without the pos- sibility of a natural outlet. A water-mark all around shows the maximum of the collection when the snows have entirely melted, which is in the spring ; since that time we observed that it had decreased several feet in consequence of evaporation alone. Some of the old inhabitants of Demavand assert, 125 DEM that whenever the waters of this lake decrease below their usual quantity, several springs in the neighbourhood of the town become dry. This lake or basin, — the water of which is quite fresh and of a most piercing cold, — is about one-half mile in circumference. Its depth is great, and in the winter it is frozen ; were it possible to drain it for irrigation it would be invaluable to the country ; but now the surrounding region is a complete desert, and no habitation is to be found within many miles. It is entirely enclosed to the northward by an almost perpendicular chain of high mountains, the snows of which afford it the greatest supply of water ; an earthquake might open it a passage on the westernmost side, but it would require a mighty effort of nature to dispose the mountains so as to produce a channel. When the snows cease to melt, the accumulation of water ceases, for the rains are never plentiful enough to supply what the evaporation takes away. It does not appear that at any time the inhabitants of Persia could have drained off its waters for the uses of agriculture. There is considerable doubt as to the height of this mountain. Mr. W. T. Thomson, who is supposed to have reached very near the summit in 1837, made it 14,695; but in 1858 Mr. R. F. Thomson and Lord Sehomberg Kerr reached the summit, and with a hypsometrical apparatus made the height 21,520 feet. A previous trigonometrical measurement by Lieutenant Colonel Lemm made it 20,120 feet. In 1860 Captain Ivastschinzov, at the head of the Russian Caspian expedition, by trigo- nometrical measurements found it to be 18,549. The difference between the trigonometrical calculation of the Russians and that of Colonel Lemm is so great, that the question cannot be considered to be as yet set at rest. (Thomson — Aimsworth — Morier — Pelly — Fraser.) DEMAVAND— Lat. Long. Elev. 6,000. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 40 miles north-east of Tehran at the south foot of the Demavand mountain. It is situated in a hollow on the banks of a river, on the road from Tehran, and is first distinguished by some old turrets which stand conspicuous on an eminence, and by one brick minaret which formerly belonged to its best mosque. The vale is about three miles in length and two in breadth, inclining on a gradual descent from the north to the south, and thus its cornfields are levelled like terraces. Besides the town of Demavand, situated nearly at its lowest extremity, it contains ten villages, and nothing can be more lively and flourishing than the appearance of this little tract. It is watered by two streams : the one flowing from the north- west, which is small ; the other from the north, which is the principal river ; they both meet at Demavand and flow through the town. On the borders of these streams are planted willows, poplars and walnut trees, which add greatly to the landscape. The interior of Damavand is thickly shaded by them, and the conjunction of trees and water tends to keep up a constant coolness even in the hottest part of the day. The town is spread over a hill, the principal street being at the foot of it near the river. It consists of about five hundred houses, three hundred of which are Demavandis, and the remainder Kirman families brought from that province by Aga Mahamad Khan. It is governed by a Sy & ad, who has a large house at the south end of the town, and whose jurisdiction extends over all the villages that are dependent upon Demavand : of these there are about thirty in number, situated according to the quantity of water near them. 126 DEM— DIL The mountain of Demavand, so conspicuous everywhere else, is not seen from the town to which it gives its name : upon this the Persians, who are great punsters, say, on arriving at the town looking for the mountain — ' Koo Demavand?' which has the double meaning of where is Demavand and mount Demavand. Demavand pays into the royal treasury a revenue of 497 tomans, 118 'kharbars/ and 27 maunds of wheat. (Morier — Eraser — Shiel — Stuart — Thomson — Pelly.) DEMIRLI— Lat. Long. Elev. A peak in Khamseh, Persia, bearing south-south-west of Zanjan. {Eawlinson.) DEMtJKHS— A tribe of Arab descent who formerly resided in the village of Chakutah in the Blishahr division, Fars, Persia. They were formerly a very brave, ancient, and independent race, and had always behaved well to the Persian Government ; but they possessed the finest breed of horses in the province, and in order to gain possession of these the Vazir of Fars had them exterminated. I do not know whether there are any of their descendants existing. {Ouseley.) DERALI— A village in Khorasan, Persia, 7 miles south-south-east of Birjan. It is situated on the south base of a bare limestone hill, which is surmounted by a ruined fort. The chief produce of the vicinity is corn and turnips. Assafcetida grows in considerable quantities both on the hills and in the plain around. [Imperial Gazetteer.) DERAKAN— A village in Fars, Persia, situated 58 miles north-west of Darab on a road by the Bakhtigan lake to Shu-az. It is enclosed by a mud wall about 12 feet high, having at each corner a small tower, and in the face next the road one entrance by a door so low that a person on horseback cannot enter. At 6 miles from this place towards Darab, the road goes through two narrow passes t called Tang-i-Derakan, which are not more than 8 or 10 feet wide, with perpendicular cliffs rising on each side to the height of 80 or 90 feet. {Ouseley.) DERRAM— Lat. Long. Elev. A valley in Azarbijan, Persia, in the Pusht-i-Koh district on the north of Sufed Rtid. It is surrounded with gardens, and contains a palace built by a Royal Prince of Persia. {Eawlinson.) DERISTAN— A village on the island of Kishm, Persian Gulf. {Wilson.) DEZIA RCD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises not far from mount Sahand, and flows towards the lake of TTrumia above the Soft Ohai. A great number of aqueducts are derived from the stream of Dezia Rud, which fertilise the surrounding lands and below Shishwan. A dam has been built across the bed of the river, which throws the remainder of the water into the canals employed also for irrigation. {Rawlinson) . DHERL— A sect of the Sufis of Persia. They believe the world is uncreated and in- dissoluble, and conceive that man is taught his duty by a mysterious order of priesthood, whose numbers are fixed and who rise in gradation from the lowest paths to the sublimest height of divine knowledge. {Malcolm.) DILAM— Vide Bandar Dilam. 127 DIL— DIN DILBAR— A village in the Bushahr district of F5rs, Persia, situated about 9 miles from Tangistan. It contains 100 houses and pays a revenue of 50 tomans. (Petty.) DILEAN— . . A sub-division of the Pesh Koh section of the great Feilli Lur tribe in Khuzistan, Persia. They are notorious for their plundering propensities ; the country they inhabit can seldom be traversed in safety either by single travel- lers or by caravans. They furnish good men to the government who form the Luristan Regiment : of this number 300 are raised from the sub-division of Yiwetiwand, 400 from that of Mominawand, and 100 from that of Reisa- wand. They are chiefly "All Ilahis-" in their religion. They number about 1,500 families, and reside during the summer near Khawah and Hara- sim, and in winter at Huldan, Koh Dasht, Rudbar, ChErdawar and Tehran. Their sub-divisions are (1) Kakawand (2) Yiwetiwand (3) Mominawand (4) Reisawand (5) Baemawand (6) Chuwarl. This tribe possess a very fine breed of mules; they are large, strong, capable of carrying great weight and enduring much fatigue, and are much esteemed throughout Persia. (Layard — Jones.) DILFARD— A place in Kirman, Persia, 24 miles north of Jaruft, at the source of the Rud Khaneh Shor river in the Sardu district. — (dbbott.) DILMAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Selmas district, Azarbijan, Persia, on left bank of an affluent of lake tTrumia on its west. It is of considerable size, and is said to contain 15,000 inhabitants and is surrounded with gardens. The streets are clean, but the bazaars are poor and ill supplied. There was an old town about 4 miles to the west of the present site, which is now almost in ruins, the position having been changed on account of the greater security from the Kurds which the new spot aflbrded. — (Shiel) Caravans are sent from Dilman to Van, Julamerik Tiflls and Erz Rum. DILLO— Lat. Long. Elev. A place in Persian Kurdistan, situate in a hill between Karadagh and Ibrahim Khanji. Here are some very extensive excavations or caverns, which it is said no one has ever been able to reach the termination of. Rich mentions his intention of exploring them, but it does not appear whether he did so or not. The hill contains sulphur, naptha, alum, salt, and a fountain of acid water of a yellow color. — (Rich.) DINARUNIS— A tribe of Khuzistan, Persia, who inhabit the valley of Susan and Bors and the mountains in the immediate neighbourhood and the rich plain of Mal- Amir. Placed between the Haft Lang and Char Lang Bakhtiarls, they usually side with the strongest. The largest sub-division is the All Mahamadi. They are most notorio as thieves, and are as barbarous and ignorant as any tribes in the mountains, and it is only through fear of their more powerful neighbours the Bakhtiarls that they are kept in subjection. They muster a few good horsemen and are admirable matchlockmen. They cultivate corn, barley, and rice, and possess large flocks of sheep and goats. They are believed to have originally come from Ispahan, and can muster about 3,000 men. — (Layard.) 128 DIN— DIZ DINARWAND— A small sub-division of the Pusht-i-Koh branch of the Feilli Lttrs in Khuzistan, Persia. They number about 200 families, and inhabit during the summer the mountains to the north-west of Kebir Koh and the country near Khoramabad, and in the winter come down to the foot of the above mountains. — (Layard.) DIRA— Lat. 30° 4' 22". Long. 49° 5' 50". Elev. An island off the coast of Khuzistan, Persia. It is low and has a swamp in the centre. — (Brucks.) DIRAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in AzarbijSn, Persia, situated on the north shore of lake Urumia, west of Tasoj. — (Stuart.) DIS— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in AzarbTjan, Persia, on left bank of the Sufgd Rud and not far from village of Ghlllvan. DlZA KHAL1L— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, 31 miles from Tasuj and 31 miles from Tabrez on the road between them. It is a fine large village, situated on the borders of a fine mountain stream, and occupies with its gardens a very extensive tract of ground. (Fraser.) DIZ AZAD KHAN— See Diz Malekan. (Lazaio.) DIZFUL— Lat. 32° 5'. Long. 48°14'. Elev. A town in Khuzistan, Persia, on left bank of river of the same name, 36 miles north-west of Shustar. It is situated a few miles from the foot of the hills on uneven and stony ground, forming the commencement of these vast plains which stretch towards Hawlzah and the Shatt-ul-Arab. It is the principal market of Kbuzistan. Its bazaar is inferior, the merchants offer- ing their goods for sale chiefly in caravanseraes or in their own houses. Its population may be about 15,000, although it is generally believed to amount to 20,000. Its houses are not so well built as those of Shustar, and the streets are narrower. The river is crossed at this place to the north-west of the town by a fine bridge of 20 arches; its foundations of stone are evidently ancient, but its upper portion of brick is of a more recent date. Syads, Mustahids, and Mulas have very considerable power here, and are very forward in creating tumults and disensions. The inhabitants are bigoted and remarkably punctual in the observance of the ceremonies and duties of their religion, and are divided into as many parties as there are chiefs, the consequence of which is that frequent disturbances take place which generally terminate in bloodshed. Dizful can furnish abundant supplies, and being on a salubrious climate would serve as an admirable base for operation against Persia by Kho- ramabad. (Layard — Monteith — Bawlinson — Kinneir — William.s — Selby — Lynch.) DIZFUL— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, which rises in the mountains to the north-west of Burujard. Its principal and indeed almost its only tributary unites with it immediately before its entrance in the mountains at the village of Bahrein in the plain of Burujard, from thence it flows almost due south to Dizful, receiving a few small mountain torrents on its way, but no stream of any importance. About 5 miles above Dizful, it is joined by the Bala Rud, 129 b DIZ and also by the Sabzab, when it turns sharply south-east and runs generally in that direction till it joins the Karun at Band-i-Klr. Its course is ex- cessively tortuous and serpentine ; frequently in its windings it recoils upon itself within a few yards and then suddenly diverges for some miles. In one instance a bank, little more than 9 feet in breadth, separates the two reaches of the river, which after a circuitous course of about 10 miles returns to the same spot. The banks of this river are thickly wooded with poplar and tamarisk, which are frequented by lions and large herds of deer. It is crossed by a stone bridge at the town of Dizful, and is fordable in several places near Dizful during the summer and autumn. This river has no positive name in the province ; the Arabs call it Shatt-ul-Diz. 'Selby considers this river might be made extremely useful. Being extremely tortuous, and having very little current and being well wooded, and the Arab tribes of Al Kathar and Anafijah on along its banks, being extremely friendly and well disposed, it presents great encouragement and facilities for steam navigation. (Layard — Selby.) DIZ MILEKAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in the Bakhtiarl mountains to the north of the Karun river, north- east of Sbustar 56 miles. It is a mass of rock about 3 miles in circumference, which rises out of the centre of a vast basin formed by lofty surrounding hills, and whose perpendicular sides overtop the neighbouring mountains. From the bottom of these cliffs the detritus slopes rapidly to a considerable distance, and even the cliffs themselves cannot be approached if this slope be in any way defended. The cliffs are naturally inaccessible. The rock is a conglomerate in which a limestone, abounding with small fossil shells and ammonites, is chiefly conspicuous. The summit has only one accessible point, and that can be defended without difficulty, even by one person, when the approaches are not destroyed. The ascent is made by a very long ladder and small steps or rather holes cut in the rock. When this ladder is removed, all communication with the summit is cut off. The Diz is divided into upper and lower. The ascent from the lower to the upper is equally pre- cipitous and difficult. The lower Diz consists of .a small platform on which there are three springs of water and a few huts. This is the usual residence of the chief. The upper Diz is without water, except that which may be collected in reservoirs during the winter rains. It contains a few acres of good arable land, which are frequently under cultivation. About 3,000 lbs. of seed may be raised without artificial irrigation. Sheep and goats have been conveyed to the summit, and beasts for the plough when needed are raised by ropes. It is not extraordinary that a natural fort of such strength should have defied the regular troops of Persia for centuries. There is little doubt but that the summit might be reached by shells and the crops easily destroyed. The approach however to the Diz from every quarter is exceedingly difficult, and the mountain passes might, if defended with skill and courage, be held against any number of men. The springs in it are not abundant, and are probably incapable of supplying any large body of men. Wheat and other necessaries are always kept in store, and several flocks find pasture on the summit : so precipitous are the cliffs that even the mountain goats cannot descend them. It belongs to the Baidar- wand division of the Haft Lang Bakhtiarls. It is also called Diz Azad Khan. {Layard.) 130 DIZ— DOE DIZ MARDA.N— Lat. Long. Elev. A hill fort in Fars, Persia, near Behbahan. It belongs to the Mamasennis, and was taken by Captain Shee. {Stuart.) DIZ MIANDEZfrN— Lat. Long. Elev. A hill fort in Khuzistan, Persia, situated on the hills overlooking the plain between ShiJstar and Dizfal. It is a place of very considerable strength, and belongs to the Mahmud Saleh division of the Char Lang Bakhtiarls {Layard.) DIZ SHAHI— Lat. Long. Elev. A stronghold in KhQzistan, Persia, situated near the river of Dizfal, and about a day's journey north-east of the town in the possession of the Du- raki division of the Haft Lang Bakhtiarls. It consists of a plain about 15 miles in circumference, forming the summit of a lofty hill, the sides of which are almost perpendicular and only to be ascended by steep and diffi- cult pathways, which may easily be defended or perhaps totally destroyed. As water is abundant on it, and flocks have been conveyed to the summit of the Diz, villages have been built on this tableland and form the ordinary place of residence of the Duraki tribe. The soil is rich and under cultiva- tion, producing grain of various kinds, therefore little chance of such a place suffering from a siege by Persian troops, though it would probably be unable to withstand the attacks of an European force. (Layard.) DIZ-StTEED— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Irak Ajami, Persia, 90 miles east of Tehran, on the road to Mazanderan and Asterabad. (Chesney.) DJED— Lat. 26° 39' 15". Long. 54° 25' 40". Elev. A village on the coast of Luristan, Persia, east of Charrak. It contains 100 men of the Al All tribe. It has a few small trading boats, but the inhabitants are principally fishermen. (Brucks) DOCHABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 30 miles from Nishapur towards Turshez. It is an open populous place, protected by an adjoining fort, and distinguished for a manufacture of raw silk. DODANGAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A name formerly applied to the canal of Ab-i-Gargar in Khuzistan, Persia. (Layard.) DOHSHAK— A village in Fars, Persia, 14 miles from Shiraz, which is noted for its salu- brity even during the worst season at that city and its neighbourhood. (Kennel.) DOLICHAE— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Irak Ajami, Persia, about 35 miles east of Tehran. (Stuart.) DOMBEY— Lat. Long. Elev. 4,500. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 13 miles from Ahar, at an elevation of about '4,500 feet on the slopes of the Kashka Dagh. (Mignon.) DONIRZAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, situated about 2 miles from MazlnUn, under the hills on the road from Tehran to Mashad. (Clerk.) DORAK— Lat. Long. Elev. • A town in the province of Khuzistan, Persia, on the left bank of the Jarahi river, 44 miles above its mouth, and the chief place of the Shekh of the Chab 131 DOR Arabs. It is situated in a low marshy plain on the banks of two of the branches of the Jarahi. The walls are two miles in circumference, built of mud 16 feet in thickness, and flanked at regular intervals with round towers. There are but few houses within the walls, as the majority of the people, who in all may amount to 8,000, prefer living in the suburbs under the shade of the date trees. The palace of the Shekh covers a large space of ground, but it is in reality a very miserable structure, built of bricks dried in the sun and falling rapidly to decay. Dorak is celebrated for its manu- facture of the abha (or Arab cloak), which are exported in great numbers all over Persia and Arabia. The trade of the place is but trifling, but what there is carried on by means of the Dorak canal with Mahamrah and Basrah, whence it is sometimes called Little Basrah. The bazaars of this town are very indifferently supplied. Dr. Colville, who visited this place in 1863, says it is difficult to form an idea of the size of Dorak, for the place is not only straggling in itself, but there are so many date trees that you cannot see it all at once. The houses are principally made of reeds, only a few are of sun-dried bricks. There is a broken down mud wall with ruined bastions made to enclose a much larger town. Between the wall and the town is all swamp ; beyond all marsh. The whole affair looks like a bad edition of Baghdad on a small scale. The bazaar is a miserable place built of sun-dried bricks, imperfectly covered with matting. There are not above 20 shops in it : most of them being in reed huts. The people are very like the Madan Arabs on the banks of the Tigris, but better dressed and more sickly. All the men wear black turbans, and carry long flintlocks manufactured in Baghdad. There does not appear to be more than 200 houses in the town itself, but the suburbs are populous. The climate here is said to be very bad ; for three months in the winter it is endurable, but in the hot weather it is dreadful ; Basrah, about the worst climate in the world, is said to be a paradise to it. In the hot season, during the day, the wind is hot and moist, and the water is hot, and there is no means of cooling it ; in the night the people He panting for breath. Fever commits great ravages from the time of the cutting of the dates to the falling of the first rain, that is from July to December, and then the inhabit- ants, it is said, die in hundreds, especially the Persians. The principal diseases are ulcers, cariesbone, rheumatism, ophthalmia, and fever. _ Dorak exports some wool and Arab cloaks, and about 3,321 tons of rice in vessels of 50 to 60 tons burthen. For further information, vide article on the Chab Arabs. (Kin?ieir Chesney — Felly — Jones — Colville — Bruchs — Layard.) DORAKASTAN KHOR. The land on the coast of Khuzistan, Persia, which lies between Bahma- snir and Bandar Mashur. (Bruchs.) DORAKASTAN KHOR— Lat. 30° 1' 20". Long. 48° 54' 30" Elev A creek which runs in from the Khuzistan coast of the Persian Gulf into the Karun river It has one fathom at the entrance at low water, and three and four fathoms mside. The latitude and longitude given above is that of its entrance. (Bruchs.) DORtJDGAH. A village m Bushahr, district Fars, Persia, situated 45 miles from Bushahr. It contains 200 houses and pays a revenue of 600 tomans. (Petty.) 132 DOS— DUZ DOSTABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 220 miles on the road from Farahto Nishapur, from which last it is 180 miles. It is an open village, and contains about 100 houses of Persian inhabitants. (Lumsden — Forbes.) DRAKTJN. ., A village on the island of Kishm, Persian Gulf, situated about 7 miles from Bassadore. (Brucks.) DUAN— Lat. 26° 34' 35". Long. 54° 37'. . Elev. A village in Luristan, Persia, situated at the bottom of Mogu bay. It is inhabited by about 140 men of the Al-Ali tribe, chiefly fishermen and cultivators. (Brucks.) DTJAT DILAM A light on the coast of Fars, Persia, at the head of the Gulf above Dilam. It affords good anchorage in a north-wester, and tolerably good in a south- easter; soundings from 3 to 4 fathoms at low water; bottom soft mud. (Brucks.) DUR— A village in Persia, 66 miles from Isfahan and 21 miles from Gilpaegan, on the road from the first to Kirmanshah. Very few supplies are procurable : water from springs. (Jones.) DtJRAKI A tribe of Haft Lang Bakhtiaris, who inhabit Char Mahal and Diz Shahi in Khuzistan, Persia. (Layard.) DURUV. See Ab-i-Shor. DU-SARI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, in the plain of Jaruft, situated 75 miles south of Bam. It is a collection of wretched hovels and reed huts lying near a mud fort. (Abbott.) DCSHMANZARI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, on the road from Behbahan to Shlraz, situated in a well wooded but uncultivated valley at the head of the Tab river. (Monteith.) D0SHMAN ZARI. A division of the Mamaseni tribe of Fars, Persia, who encamp chieflly near Ardekan, Shapur, and Chanoshjan, and number about 100 families. They are poorer and less powerful than the other divisions of this clan. (Monteith.) DUWIRI— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, formed by two streams rising in the hills usually occupied by the Lur tribe of Sagwand, which unite in the lower part of the small plain of Patak, and thence forces its way through the sandstone hills, and after winding for a few miles in the plain in which it is joined by a small stream called Bogreb, it loses itself in a marsh before reaching the Tigris. (Layard.) DUZDGAH. A village in Fars, Persia, 36 miles from Kongun on the road to Firozabad, from which it is 60 miles distant. There is a small fort here, and the place has some date groves. No supplies are procurable, and the water from the stream is brackish ; sweet water is to be had from wells. (Jones.) 133 E. ECHKIDAR— A village in Yezd district, Persia, about 14 miles west of Yezd. There is said to be a lead mine near it. It is a large place situated in tbe midst of gardens. (Christie.) EIMAKS— A tribe of Persia who reside in the southernmost parts of Khorasan near Kara Khaf and Bakhey. They are of Afghan origin, though some say they originally came from Tfirkistan, and they are of the same tribe as the Eimaks of Afghanistan. They are Sun! in religion. They number 50,000 houses and are all " sahra nishins.'" (Morier.) EKLID— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, south of Abadeh. It is a very flourishing place with extensive gardens, handsome trees, and delightful streams of admir- able water. In the vicinity are four forts in which most of the people reside. (Ouseley.) EL ABNISAIL— A tribe of Arab origin who reside near Ghayn in Khorasan, Persia, having been transplanted there by Shah Abbas. They retain little trace of their ancestry ; even their language is unknown to them. They possess consider- able herds of cattle. (Masson — StrecJi — Fraser — Ouseley.) ELBOCKBESH— A section of the Chab Arabs. (Colvitte.) ELBtJRZ— A range of mountains in Persia, part of the great mountain system of Asia. All authorities seem to agree that they are connected with the Paropamisan range, the water-shed of which runs south of Herat, Grhorian, Khaf and Turshez, to a point on the road between Biarjun and Gond-i-Bang in Kho- rasan (which Clerk says is the highest point on the road between Shahrud and Herat) near Bostam ; whence one range runs back again north-east and east round the north part of Khorassan, dividing it from the Atak and even- tually dying away about Kalat-i-Nadar ; the other range goes with a direction south-west to the peak of Demavand, it then turns west and then trends to north-west till turned by the Kizl Ozan river, whence one spur is thrown west parallel to that river, and the main range turns south-west and crossing Khamseh is joined with the mountains of Ardelan near the sources of the Kizzil Ozan river. It is quite arbitrary to attempt to lay down exactly where a range begins and ends in eastern countries, because ranges are never known by distinct names till perhaps some systematic and scientific European seizes on the name of some conspicuous peak and names a whole range by it. However, one thing is certain that the Elbiirz, like every range in south- west Asia, may be said to owe its origin eventually to the Pamer, for, as I have shown above, it is connected with the mountains of the Paropamisus by a range which runs south of Mashad and north of the great salt desert 134 ELB— ENZ of KhorasSn, and the mountains of Ardelan being connected with those of Ararat and the Caucasus, it is clear that the Elbtirz may be regarded the connecting link between the two. In order to limit the range to the tract in which the name is known, I should say the Elburz range may be said to commence near Bostam, and end at the point where it turns south to run through Khamseh, and connect itself with the mountains of Kurdistan and Armenia. The length of the range in these limits must be at least 400 miles, viz., from longitude 50 to 56. Its general direction is from east to west, and it divides the provinces of Astrabad, Mazandaran, and Ghllan from Khorasan, Irak Ajami, and Khamseh. The whole of its north drainage without exception goes into the Caspian, and the streams which start from its south slopes all appear to be lost in the great salt desert. Of its general height we have absolutely no information, none of the travellers who have crossed it at various points having made any estimate. The solitary instance of any attempt being made to fix the altitude of any part of this range being that of mount Denjavand, but the estimates of the elevation of this peak are very conflicting, ranging as they do from 14,695 by Mr. W. T. Thomson to 21,520 by Lord Schomberg Kerr and Mr. R. F. Thomson. The passes over the Elburz range commencing from the east are — Shahrud to Astrabad, Sari to Damghan, Barfarosh to Semnun, Amol to Tehran. The Elburz mountains are said to abound in mineral wealth, particularly in coal and iron. Coal is found in two places within 30 miles of Tehran. {Todd — Fraser — CAesney — Clerk) EL-HAKK— Lat. , Long. Elev. A walled village in Khorasan, Persia, on the right of road from Tehran to Mashad, seven miles west of Abbassabad and 75 miles east of Shahrud. There is a stream of water here. There is a defile of this name at 6 miles from Abbassabad. (Clerk — Taylor.) ENZELI— Lat. 37° 27'. Long. 49° 25'. Elev. A port on the south-west corner of the Caspian sea on the coast of Ghflan, Persia. The village of Enzeli consists of from 3 to 400 houses and shops, the greater part of which form a street or row along the harbour ; this quay is at once the exchange, the bazaar, and the place where all business is conducted. There is also a short double row of houses extending at right angles to the main street from the governor's house towards the sea, but all the chief shops are confined to the quay. It is built on the eastern extremity of a low sandy spot of land, which separates the lake of Enzeli from the Caspian, and is altogether a miserable collection of wood and reed houses with three brick caravanseraes. The village and a small fort are situated on the west side, while on the east is a similar fort. The first has one brass 32-pounder and one 12-pounder, and there are about 30 awkward artillerymen, and there are supposed to be 200 matchlockmen, but not more than 50 of them are ever present. There is an Armenian church here — a mere wooden shed — because the Mulas at Resht would not let it be built of brick in case it should be used as a fort by the Russians. The strip of sand that divides the lake from the sea is in no place of great breadth ; in some not more than a few yards across, but it is everywhere 135 ENZ and at all times dry. It appears to owe its existence chiefly to the washing of the surf in high winds, and the water has everywhere left its marks at a surprising height above its usual level. On the eastern side of the entrance, the bank being of greater breadth bears a good many forest trees and much thicket, but the western bank is almost entirely bare. The bay or lake of Enzeli is nothing more than a very large back-water, formed by the waters of several streams, and separated from the sea by a long narrow strip of sand through which there is but one passage of communication. The extent of this lake may be from 35 to 40 miles in length, by 12 to 15 in breadth ; the greater part lies to the west of a line that would join Resht and Enzeli, and which would be nearly a meridian line. There is reason to believe that the greater part of this lake is very shallow, for there are islands in various parts of it, the nature of which as well as its reedy shores, seem to indicate its little depth of water. The passage by which its waters reach the Caspian is a narrow strait not exceed- ing 200 or 300 yards in breadth and about one-fourth mile long, deep enough for any ship that trades here, but having a bar without it upon which the sea occasionally breaks. Upon the point forming the west side of this passage is the village of Enzeli. The villages of Kazian and Soncet occupy the other or east side. The harbour, where vessels that have entered by the strait most commonly lie, is formed by an island called Kallam Gondah, which stretches alono- the inner or southern side of the western point, leaving a deep channel like a river of about 150 yards broad and of considerable length. In this vessels may ride close to the shore, and load and unload their cargoes as safely as if they were in a dock, tier and tier close alongside of each other, there being no need of room for swinging, so that the place, though not large, could hold an infinitely greater number of vessels than the trade of the Caspian can ever require. In front of the anchorage is a long island covered with trees and jungle, giving the channel the appearance of a river. The island has a few inhabitants, and was originally joined to the point of the long strip of sand opposite Enzeli, but it is now separated from it by a channel of 400 yards in width and in some parts two fathoms deep The Persian government at one time ordered a battery to be erected to protect the entrance, but it is not known whether this has since been done. There are number of .Russian vessels engaged in trade always here, varying from 40 to 100 tons burthen, besides many boats used in the coasting trade. The water of the lake is fresh, and is supplied by the numerous rivers which flow into it, of which the following are the principal : — a Mushed ... ... Kalla Kagee ...*) _, Bahamber ... ... Chokoover , f -«om the district Ghorabar ... ... Ispun '"j °f Gascar. TheBoolgoor ... Choomiseal ) _, Sooloogondeh ... j Prom Fomen. Scearvee ... ... Hindoo Kaleh 1 „ Lagsar ... ... No Kaleh ..'. j From Toolum. Keeftarood ... ... Goubsh Kail .. ■) Peeree Bazaar ... Sheijan . , 'A From Kesht. Mungodeh ... ... Infarood „.) Besides these there are many other small rivulets, which during the autumn and winter months are almost dry. s 136 ENZ— EYW Among the multitudes of fish with which the lake literally swarms, are the sturgeon, the bream, a large kind of lake trout, the salmon, the sated machee, earls and many others. The fishery of the safed machee alone is rented for £1,500 per annum, and proves a profitable speculation. Vessels of various sizes are built at Enzeli, and also at the opposite village of Kazian. They seem to be clumsily and ill put together. They are of various sizes, generally about 25 feet long, but all alike in shape, having the stem and stern equally sharp and pointing upwards, while the centre is con- siderably lower. They generally use oars, but have also a mast and sail which carries them on at a good rate when the wind is fair; but they never use them when it is at all before the beam. Many of these crafts are to be seen running along the shore, and lying in the mouths of the creeks and rivers upon the coast, and there is a certain number constantly trading between Pirl Baza and Enzeli ; they are navigated by a crew of from 3 to 6 men, one of whom is looked up to as the master. Some of these boats are calculated to carry from 10 to 12 tons, and have a half deck under which they could stow baggage or goods out of danger from the weather. Eastwick is of opinion that the trade of Resht through Enzeli might be multiplied twenty-four fold, if a good macadamised road was made from Resht to the lake with a jetty, so that goods might be shipped right off on board a steamer; and also if a lighthouse was built, Russian steamers admitted into the harbour, and the neighbouring coal mines opened out. In 1805 a Russian force took possession of Enzeli and tried to take Resht also, but being defeated with a loss of 1,000 men, they retreated to Enzeli, which also they afterwards evacuated. (Holmes — Fraser— Eastwick.) ERAWANDU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Pars, Persia, 22 miles north-west of Bushahr. It is described as a tolerable sized place. (Clerk.) ERDILARI— A tribe said to inhabit Khuzistan, Persia. (Chesney.) ETREK— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Persia, rising in the mountains of the Kurdistan, district of Khorasan, near Kuchan, in north latitude 37'45° and east longitude 59°. It has a course generally west and flows into the Caspian Sea after about 300 miles in the Hasan Kuli Bay. It is crossed by the road from Mazandaran district of Persia to Khiva, about 40 miles from its mouth, and is at this point from 12 to 15 paces in breadth, and 3 to 4 feet deep with a moderate current. Its upper portions are inhabited by Kurds, and in its lower course by a notorious clan of Turkmans, who are the • terror of the neighbouring Persian districts of Mazanderan and Taberistan. EYE DAGEMISH— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Azarbljan, Persia, which rising in the Sahand mountain falls into the Karangu near Miana. (Honteith.) EYWANI KAIF— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 41 miles east of Tehran on the Mashad road. It is prettily situated among nice fruit gardens, which are famous for their figs and pomegranates. It contains about 403 houses with a caravanserae shah half in ruins. The soil is rich, well watered, and highly cultivated. It was originally contained within the four mud walls of a large fort, but now about two-thirds of the houses are outside them. It is on the bank of 137 s EYW— FAH the Zamarud, the bed of which is about 30 yards wide, but is quite dry for a great part of the year. The water here is said to be very brackish. To the south-west of the village is a range of hills which supply Tehran with salt. The salt is got by blasting, and is pure without admixture of earth ; the supply is exhaustless. In these hills are numbers of deer, that are very fond of the saline springs. The ruins of the ancient city are situated about 2 miles south-west from the village, and between it and the hills above- mentioned. There are also ruins of two forts, the larger of which was 115 yards long by 100 yards broad with very thick walls. This village is assigned to the Shah's Master of the Horse, and pays 200 tomams in cash, 250 'kharbars' of wheat and 300 of straw. (Clerk — Holmes — Gibbons — Ferrier — Telly — Eastwick.J F. FAHENDER— Lat. Long. Elev. A ruined castle in Fars, Persia, about 2 miles east of Shlraz, situated on a mountain, the extreme summit of which was once covered with its walls. {Ouseley.) FAHLIAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Fars, Persia, 72 miles north-west of Shlraz. DeBode describes it as a paltry little town of at most 60 or 70 houses, but enclosed by walls now in ruins, which show that it was formerly not quite so insignifi- cant. It is supplied with water by a canal cut through the hills from the snow-capped chain beyond Kala Sufed for a distance of 14 miles. It is surrounded by fine palm trees, and has a fort in ruins on the summit of a small hill. As a precipice rises close behind the town, it is probable that the heat in summer must be intolerable. Supplies of grain and cattle can be obtained here, and wood is procurable from the Bakhtiarl tribes in the neighbourhood. The district of Fahlian, which formerly extended from Munlnahl on the south to Basht on the north-west, and from Ardekan on the east to Khisht on the south-west, has been encroached upon by the MamasenI, who by- degrees have made themselves masters of all the arable land' formerly possessed by the inhabitants of Fahlian, who complain bitterly of the exactions to which they are subjected. The water of the Abshor being as its name implies, brackish, it can only be used for irrigating the fields. The soil here is very fertile and water abundant, but hands are wanting for the cultivation of the land. The fields artificially irrigated yield from 25 to 40 fold- in the winter crops ; the proportion is lower in the lands called ' dein' (debt) and ' bakhs' (deficiency), i. e., fields watered only by rain and dew and not artificially irrigated. Rice which is grown yields less than that which is planted, the produce of the latter being to that of the former in good years 150 fold. Sesamun is also cultivated here and yields 100 fold The duties paid by Fahlian to the government of the province of Fars do not exceed £480. {DeBode — Jones.) 138 FAK— FAR FAKHRABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, on the road between Mashad and Tun. There is said to be a strong castle here. ( Wolff.) FAMOUR— Lat. Long. Elev. A lake in Fars, Persia, about 13 miles south-east of Kazlrun and — miles west of Shiraz. It is a long narrow sheet of fresh water stretching north- west and south-east about 3£ miles long by half to one mile broad. On its south side it is very shallow, but it is said to be beyond a man's depth in the centre. It occupies the north side of a beautiful vale, bounded by lofty and rocky mountains on both hands, and is fed on its south-east extremity. The village of Famour is situated on its south-east end. {Abbott.) FANOCH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Bampur, Kirman, Persia, situated on the borders of Makran, 78 miles south-west of Bampur and 152 miles north-north-west of Chobar. It is a comparatively large Biloch village, situated in the plain north of the Makran hills. The fort is in ruins and appears quite uninhabited. There are 100 houses and probably 500 inhabitants, nearly all of whom are slaves. There is a great profusion of date trees here, and some extent of cultivation. Fanoch is assessed with another village called Ranoch, 7 miles west, the former paying two-thirds, the latter one-third. (Goldsmidt.J FANOCH— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass leading from the Bampur district of Kirman into Makran, and situated about 78 miles south-west of Bampur. On leaving Fanoch, the road goes for some distance through a barren defile with nearly perpendicular rocks on either side, and is very rugged and stony, while the water in the defile forms a serious obstacle, from its having in places collected in scarcely fordable pools, which it is not always practicable to avoid. The defile gradually improves and opens ; at 16 miles an open space is reached. After this the defile again narrows to widen again soon after before the village of Dahan is reached. (Goldsmidt.) FAOLID MAHALA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 32 miles south-west of Chasma All. It is said to be a dirty mud-built village, situated upon a hillock insulated on the plain consisting of about eighty houses. Its inhabitants are very poor to judge from the misery of their appearance. The women are particularly turbulent and clamorous, and appear entirely to regulate the foreign relations of the village. This miserable place belongs to the Mtila Bashi, or chief priest of Tehran, who seems to keep his peasants in the lowest state of indi- gence, and seizes from them without compunction everything but their lives. The small plain that environs this village bears evidence to the miserable existence which its inhabitants lead in times of trouble, and particularly during the inroads of the Turkmans. Close to each corn-field are erected small square fortifications, into which the cultivator retires the moment the marauders appear, and thence fires upon them, whilst he frequently has the mortification to see his fields laid waste under his own eyes. This is the case on all this frontier and throughout Khorasan ; wherever there is a patch of cultivation, immediately a protecting tower is erected close to it. (Morier.) FARAHABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, 17 miles north of Sari at the mouth of the Thejen river. It is a mere collection of 70 or 80 huts. The inhabitants 139 FAR are very poor, and their houses are of the meanest kind. No provi- sions of any kind are procurable. A little silk is produced, and several of the cottages are surrounded with mulberry plantations. The trade is very insignificant. The Turkmans bring annually between 400 and 500 ' khar- bars' of naptha, which is worth here about eight shillings the ' kharbar/ or 36 maunds Tabriz or 230115s English. The naptha is of inferior quality and different color to that from Baku. The TQrkmans also bring salt and pomegranate seeds. A ship occasionally arrives from Astrakhan with Russian goods. There are a few huts on the left bank of the river, inha- bited by Russians engaged in the sturgeon fishery of the Thejen river. Fraser thus describes the ruins of Farahabad — " They are divided into two principal parts, one of which formerly contained the buildings suited to a royal residence. In the other are the public buildings usually attached to a respectable town. A considerable space has been enclosed for the first by a strong wall with bastions at the corners ; and this was again divided into two parts — that to the northward containing the private, that to the southward the public apartments. In the other nothing now remains, except a small house of three rooms kept for the accommodation of the prince when he comes here to shoot. The entry from thence to the other division is by a long narrow passage, such as is usual in harems, and is sur- rounded with lofty walls in a way that leaves no doubt of its having been appropriated to the residence of the ladies. The only building now standing is a house nearly square, of two stories, with a high square tower at top, situated near the river side, and now called the JahSn Numa. This, though much dilapidated, still retains its original form, so that the dispo- sition of its apartments can be made out. It much resembles some of those at Ashruff, having a large centre hall with corner rooms, and smaller ones between them on the lower story, and above a number of small cells, some of which are en suite. These indicate sufficiently its original desti- nation, which the traditions of the place confirm by calling this building the zenanah. " All these rooms have been adorned with painting, not in flowers and fancy ornaments alone, for, contrary to the usual customs of Maha- madanism, the panels and recesses have borne representations of the human figure, but they had suffered so much from damp and violence that it was difficult to trace the design. From what I could observe, however, it appeared that the subjects, or the artist at least must have been a Chinese, because instead of the stiffness so constantly observed in Persian paintings, those in question possessed much of the flowing and even graceful outline which is to be seen in the best Chinese compositions : bits of gold and azure could still be detected amongst the ruin which had laid every thin <* waste, and no doubt the place was once worthy of its inmates. " To the west of this may be seen the remains of a wall and gate, once probably belonging to a garden, now, like the rest, a mass of ruins covered with briers and reeds. The situation of this building and its garden must once have been very delightful, and the view from the tower above, extend- ing over the town and neighbouring country, as well as the Caspian Sea, both interesting and magnificent. " Passing through the outer enclosure by a gateway to the southward, we reached another entrance opening into a fine large oblong square. The space between the gateways was probably a street or enclosed pathway, 110 FAR intended for those who came to wait upon the sovereign. The square is two hundred and fifty paces long, by one hundred and thirty-four broad, and is surrounded by an arcade of fifteen feet wide, within which we saw a range of small apartments, in some places double, with windows opening behind. This was probably a great bazaar like the Maedan Shah at Ispahan, and contained chambers in which shop-keepers could lodge as well as expose their goods for sale. Opposite this northern gate is one which leads to the mosque. The buildings connected with this establishment enclose another oblong square, the south (or south-south-west) side of which is the mosque itself: this fine building, which is sixty -six paces long by twenty- five deep ,within the walls is supported by four rows of grained arches upon plain pillars, and has in the centre a lofty dome exceedingly well turned, which, like the rest, is formed of brick and mortar. Neither it nor the walls have ever been plastered inside ; the bricks, which have been carefully painted with lime, remain just as they were at first, but the roof of the arcades has in many places fallen in, and all the other parts of the building, except the dome of the mosque, are in a state of decay. Opposite the mosque there is a screen as usual, having arched cells to correspond with the arches of the mosque, which with the other surrounding apartments served probably to accommodate the Mulas attached to the establishment. " On each side of the mosque, and its eastern and western extremities, were to be seen the remains of the two smaller buildings, also enclosing rectan- gular areas. These have been divided into cells which, judging from those still remaining, fitted up with fire-places, recesses, and shelves, with a veran- dah before and sleeping -places behind, have probably been intended for ' Madrissas' or colleges attached to the mosque. " Such are all that deserve notice of the ruins of Farahabad ; every part of them has been constructed with the best brick and mortar, and so completely in the manner and style of Shah Abbas, that no one who has seen the other works of that monarch would hesitate in naming him as their founder. But the whole is vastly inferior to Ashraf in extent as well as in magnificence ; the one indicates a permanent, the other a temporary residence ; it is only singular that they should have been placed so near each other. Both are now in complete decay — a decay which, independent of the total neglect of man, may be termed premature, and is to be attributed to the moist climate and rank vegetation of Mazandaran ; the former destroys the ex- ternal' cement, and enables the seeds and roots of plants to fix themselves ; that once being done, the growth of their roots soon bursts the strongest walls asunder. The solidity of the buildings at either place would, in the dry climate of Irak, have ensured their permanence for many centuries. " That Farahabad was once a town of considerable extent and importance is certain ; it is now however a petty village, with nothing to boast of but the ruins already described ; for all the houses, which were constructed of wood and clay, mouldered into dust as soon as they were deserted. There is at no great distance from it, on the sea-side, a small establishment formed for the purpose of catching sturgeon, and curing them for the Russian market." [Holmes — Fraser.) FARAKEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bushahr district of Fars, Persia, situated about 50 miles from Bushahr. It has £00 houses, and pays 150 tomans revenue. (Petty.) 141 FAR FARAKHaBAD— Lat. Long. Elev._ A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 8 miles north-east of Shahriid, situated on the borders of a desert. The village is in a ruinous state, but there is a good caravanserae and abundance of water. It is usual for caravans about to cross the desert to collect all stragglers here. (Gibbons.) FAR A SHE AND— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, about 63 miles south-east of Kazirun, 84 miles east of Bushahr, and 30 miles west of Firozabad. It is a large village embosomed in palm groves and situated in the plain of the same name. This plain runs in a direction north-west and south-east, and is said to be about 30 miles in length by 4 miles in breadth. It has a fort and 800 huts. Its soil is gener- ally very free from stones, and its surface is extensively cultivated. It is a fine tract, but so ill-watered as to depend for moisture almost entirely on rain. This being uncertain, the produce of the field varies greatly ; wheat and barley seem alone to be raised. The land is never manured or left fallow ; but when new spots are cultivated, the produce is said to be as high as 30 or 40 fold, though in ordinary cases on old ground it would only be 10 or 12 fold. There are about 5 or 6 villages in this plain, which on the south is bounded by Dashti and on the north-west by Koh Mareh. It was formerly a well inhabited tract, and furnished a considerable military contingent, but from various causes it has declined since the reign of Karim Khan, Zand. Considerable supplies are procurable here, as well as cattle for slaughter and burden ; the latter chiefly asses. Rice, fuel, and ghee can be procured from the nomads in the vicinity. Jones' says good water is procured from hill springs, but Abbott remarks on the want of water. There is good pasturage for cattle round here. A road branches off from this place to Shlraz via Girl, by which in the war of 1856 the Persians brought down 12-pounder guns. (Abbott — Telly — Jones.) FARIDUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A small sub-division of the province of Irak Ajaml,Persia, situated at the back of the south-west ridge of the mountains of Khonsar. It is peopled by Georgians and Armenians brought here by Abbas the Great, and a few Bakhtiarls who have driven out the others ; the former, amounting to 1,000 families, profess the Mahomedan faith, but never intermarry with either Persians or Arme- nians. _ The capital of this district is Puashish. (Kinneir — Layard.) FARIMAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in Khorasan, Persia, 37 miles south of Mashad on the Herat road, situated in a perfectly level and extensive plain, and bounded by some high rocky mountains on the south and west. It contains from 3 to 400 families. The water good, and there is a little cultivation, and supplies are obtainable. (Clerk.) FARK — Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Khorasan, Persia, about 30 miles from Birjan on the road to Tabas, reputed one of the strongest places in Khorasan. It is situate on a hill about 200 or 250 feet high, but is commanded on the north and west within cannon shot ; another hill to the south on the opposite side of the ravine is about 1,200 yards from summit to the walls of the fort. The building itself is of an oblong form with three tiers or ranges of buildings, the foundations and lower half of the walls and houses being of undressed stone and lime, and at the upper and inner parts partly hewn from the rock (limestone) on which it stands. The upper portions of the walls, houses, and battlements 142 FAR are of mud and crude brick only, which is crumbling to pieces ; at the angles of the walls there are round towers of stone and crude brick loopholed, as are also the outer walls ; the whole however is clumsily and unskilfully built, and a few round shots would probably bring down an entire side of the structure. The gateway is on the east side, partly covered by the houses of the village but without other defences. Within, the fort there are three large tanks said to be sufficient for the supply of a large garrison for a year and a half; the water comes from a spring in one of the hills to the west, and is conveyed to the fort by a covered aqueduct. A large store of corn is usually kept here, and the granaries can hold from 2,400 to 2,600 ' kharwars' of 100 Kayin or 50 Tabrez maunds each. On one occasion, when the Shah of Persia was besieging Herat, 1,800 Kayin ' kharwars' are said to have been supplied to his army at once from Park. The village of Fark Darmian contains about 200 families of StinTs. It has no manufactures except a little coarse calico. The gardens furnish a considerable quantity of walnuts, and some of the trees from 30,000 to 40,000. The barberry (zerishk) is cultivated in large quantities, and the fruit exported to the east. On a range of hills near Fark there are said to be some copper mines. (Forbes.) FARS.— A province of Persia, bounded on the north by Irak, east by Kirman and Luristan, west by Khuzistan, and south by the Persian Gulf. It lies between the 27° 20' and 31° 41' latitude and longitude 49° 20' and 54° 20', and has the shape of a quadrilateral, each side of which is nearly 220 miles long. It has a superficial area of 44,335 geographical square miles. This province is divided into the Garmasar and Sardasar, or the warm and the cold climates : the former is that tract which extends from the sea to the latitude of Kazirun, and runs parallel with the Gulf from the banks of the Tab to the confines of Luristan. The cultivation of the Dashtistan, or sandy plain, at the foot of the mountain entirely, depends on the periodical rains, and conse- quently when they prove abundant, the country yields a fair proportion of dry grain ; but when there is failure in the rains, which unfortunately happens too often, the produce is so deficient that a famine generally ensues. The Dashtistan is divided into the districts of Lirawl and Hiadonat, which are separated from each other by the projecting mountain of Bang. They are thinly-peopled and badly-cultivated, and the few mud villages which here and there appear like spots on the plain, bespeak at first sight the wretchedness and poverty of their possessors. The Sardasar, or cold climate, comprehends most of the mountainous part of Fars, extending from the latitude of Kazirun to that of the town of Yezdikhast, situated on the bed of what appears to have been formerly a river, which separates this province from Irak. The plains which here in- tersect the mountains seldom exceed eight or ten miles in breadth, but vary in length from fifteen to a hundred. They are in general fertile, afford abundance of pasturage, and are not so deficient in water as is commonly supposed; and it is the want of population and the little encouragement given to industry which alone retard their improvement. A few of these plains, such as those of Shiraz, Kazirun, and Merdasht, are however tolerably well cultivated, but they are, for the most part, and particular- ly to the north and west, destitute of inhabitants. Between Bebahan 143 FAR and Shlraz there are upwards of sixty miles of the most delightful valleys covered with wood and verdure, but all is solitary, not the face of a human being was anywhere to be seen. These valleys had been possessed by an ancient tribe which, in consequence of their licentious conduct, had been nearly extirpated by the orders of the prince, and the few that survived had taken refuge on the summits of the loftier and most inaccessible mountains, where they subsisted on a wretched kind of bread made from acorns, and from thence sallying forth infested the roads, and rendered travelling extremely dangerous. The facer of the country in the eastern part of Pars, towards Darabjard and Fasa, is somewhat different : there it is more open, the plains are of greater extent, the soil more sandy, and water less plentiful. The great range of mountains seen from the coast is a mere elongation of the chain of Mount Zagros, not a separate range, but connected with that mountainous tract which extends, in a continued succession of ridges, from the borders of the Persian Gulf to the Caspian Sea and the Caucasus. The hills in Fars are situated at different distances from the sea. At Bushahr they are distant about twenty-four miles. Towards Bandar Reg the plain becomes contracted, and a few miles to the west of the village of Gunava, a low ridge suddenly projects out to the south, and touching the sea separates the district of Llrawl from that of Hiadonat. This projecting point is known by the name of Koh-i Bang/'' It is of no great height, and in breadth about seven or eight miles. Beyond this hill lies the plain of Llrawl. Here again the mountains are about twenty miles from the sea, at which distance they continue for eighteen or nineteen miles, when they again approach the south and form a circle in the neighbourhood of Bandar Dilam. This low and advanced branch is known by the name of Zeitun, from a small town not far from Bebahan. On turning the southern point of the hills of Zeitun, they again abruptly retire to the north. At the port of Mashur they are thirty miles from the sea, and at Shustar their most southern extremity crosses the thirty- second degree of north latitude in the forty-ninth degree of east longitude. Fars contains the salt lakes of Bakhtigan and Dariachte, which are in the neighbourhood of Shlraz j there is also a fresh water lake in the plain of Zerdan. The principal streams are the Band AmTr or Araxes, the Nabon, and the higher parts of the two brances of the Tab. Towards the north Madar-i- Stiliman marks the tomb of Cyrus, and to the west are the ruins of Kala Sufed, and nearly in the centre are those of the ancient capital, Persepolis. The modern places of note are Darabjard, Jarem, Fasa and Firozabad, on the east and on the west, Kazlrun, Mayln, Oujan, and Shlraz in the centre. The sea-ports of Fars are Tauree Kongun, Reshahr Bushahr Bandar Reg and Bandar Dilam. The tribes who inhabit Fars are as follows : — Feili, 100 houses Lelis, Persians and Lek Byat, _ _ 120 „ Turks. Bergushadi 50 „ „ GuranT, 100 „ Leks. Kajar Afshar A mixed tribe of Turks and Leks. Turks, 250 houses : Leks, 100 houses. ' Abulvardi, 300 tents, are smugglers engaged in trade. Tewellellee, 40 houses of Turk cultivators. Amelsh, 40 „ 144 PAR- FAS Gurani, 300 tents and houses of Leks. feS» } 100 nouses. Basile, 3,300 tents ; are of Arab descent. Arab. 7,300 tents, divided into 41 branches (which see ). Kashki, 30 to 40,000 tents of Turks. Mamasenni, 8,000 tents and houses of Leks. (Kintiier — Chemey — Shiel — Preiser — Petty) The produce of Fars is tobacco, fruits, opium, gram, oranges and limes, sulphur, lead, red and yellow ochre, lamb-skins, horses, sheep, mules, &c. The manufactures are arms, cutlery, glass-ware, ornamented pen cases, silver and gold kaliiins, tobacco pipes, cotton cloths, cotton and woollen stockings, wine, &c. Pelly gives the following list of the districts of Fars, the details of which will be found under their titles : — " Abadieh Surnieri, situate north of Shiraz. " Abadieh Tashtak, situate north-east of Shiraz. " Ardekan, situate west of Shiraz. " Aklul north ; Yezd Khast north ; Abreh north ; Abneh west ; Assiod and " Ala Merdasht north ; Afzar and Kunj north ; Astabaneh east ; Arbaa south ; Dehneh ; Bezah north-west ; Bavunat north ; Joyum and Bideshahr south ; Jereh west ; Jahrum south ; Takht-i- Jamshid north-east ; Khisht and Ko- marij west; Knajeyi south; Khafr east; Jeriz and Assengan north-east; Darabjard east; Dashtistan south-east; Dashtl south; Ramjard north; Romiz and Fasa east ; Chardonga north ; Siakh west ; Semirun and Diz- gard north-west ; Servistan east ; Shul and Dilkhan west ; Shulistan west ; Kala Stifed north-west: Simekun north; Flrozabad south; Faul and Galedar south ; Farashband south ; Keiferi north ; KhQshmareh south-west ; Kever east; Kulbar east; Kazlrun west; Kentin north; Mashud Nabi north; Maimand south ; and Maym and Kondazi north." {Petty.) FARSJIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 64 miles south-east of Zanjan and 42 miles south-west of Kasvln, on the great road from Tehran to Tabrez. There is a good running stream here, and well cultivated fields, pleasant gardens and green trees, and being in the midst of one of the favourite hunting grounds of the kings of Persia, the neighbourhood abounds in game of all de- scriptions. (Ouseley — Morier.) FASA— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Fars, Persia, 77 miles east south-east of Shiraz, 39 miles west north- west of Darabjard and 126 miles north-west of Bandar Abbas. It is merely large village of some 900 families with a detached mud fort and some pleasant gardens standing in the middle of a plain about seven miles broad. The district of Fasa extends east and west about 45 miles, and varies in breadth from 9 to 15 miles. Its villages and hamlets amount in number to 33, and its productions are chiefly barley and wheat ; 5 to 12 fold is the ordinary yield. Indian corn, millet, sessame seed, and tobacco, cotton and rice are produced in small quantities. The country comes generally under the deno- mination of Garm Sar or warm region. The plain has a dreary deserted appearance, and the mountains around with few traces of vegetation. Water is obtained here from springs and kanats. Some baggage animals are procurable here. (Ouseley — Abbott — Jones.) 145 t FAT— FEI FATEHABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 2nd post stage, from Mashad on the Herat road. It consists of a small fort with mud walls, and some poor huts outside, and is the residence of many Syads. (Pelly.) FAZLMAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, south of TQrbat Haedarl. It contains about 40 families, and as it possesses two artificial water-courses of brackish water, a good deal of ground about it is cultivated. Its inhabitants are chiefly nomads with a few Kazlbash peasants. A party of 60 TaemQri horse- men is stationed here to watch the plundering hordes of the Turkmans from Merv. {Forbes.) FEDAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Laristan, Persia, 87 miles north-west of Mogu Bay, and 39 miles south south-east of Lar on the road between them. There is a fortified enclosure here, described as somewhat solid, but with no guns. Water is procured from wells. (Jones.) FEDVA— Lat. _ Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 12 miles south-west of Bam. It only consists of a few rude mud hovels. (Abbott.) FEHREJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in the Yezd district, Persia, 30 miles east of Yezd. {Abbott.) FEILI— A large tribe of Lurs who inhabit a portion of the province of Khuzistan, Persia. It is divided into the Pesh Koh and the Ptisht-i-Koh (or those on this side and beyond the mountains), and these divisions contain numerous sub-divis ions as follows. The divisions are as follows : — Great Diviaiojiy. Pesh-Koh Tribes. Tilab. Silah Bala Giriwa-f Amalah Sub-divisions. Yiwetiwand Mnmdenawand Reisawand Bijinawand Chuwarie Hassanawand K&liwand Yusafawand Reshntlwi Saki Papi Dirikawand Kllshki Ziwabdar TJmrai Mir-Akhir Katirzi Gholam Motamad Rukhrukh Zulah Chigoni 10,000 i,ooo m a Einneir — Petty — Jones.) FIROZABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in Yezd district, Persia, situated 2 miles north of the road between Akdeh and Mebut. [Abbott.) 149 FIR— GAD FIROZ KOH— Lat. Long Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, situated 90 miles north of Tehran. It is one of the most singular and romantically situated places one can imagine, built on the brink of a stream over which form perpendicular rocks 1,000 feet high. It has 300 houses, some of which are situate below the mountain, and others cover its steep side to a considerable height rising one above the other, and some of the inhabitants live in caves cut in the hill behind the village, which are also used as stakes for their cattle in whiter. A plentiful stream, which rises about 20 miles to the east near Gour Sufed, runs in the valley below the village, and its banks are cultivated for about half mile on both sides, for the most part with wheat and barley. The ground here yields but poor returns, giving only about one for three. There are some ruins of a castle on the east side, which is attributed to Alexander ; it is approached by a very steep path, but it is commanded by an opposite height on the east, and by a hill from which it is divided by a cleft scarcely an arrow shot distant on the south. (Byrnes — Connolly — Stuart — Ouseley — Morier — Eastwick — Fraser.) FOMEN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Ghilan, Persia, on the north side of the Mosala pass into Azar- bijan. It is a miserable place, and contains about 1,200 inhabitants. The palace of Haji Jamal, who murdered Elton in 1746, is here. {Monteith.) FtTRK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Luristan, Persia, situated 51 miles north-west of Bandar Abbas, 36 miles south-east of Darab, and 129 miles south-east of Shiraz, on a road be- tween the first and last. It is described as a large village surrounded with date groves and a few gardens, and yielding good supplies of gram. Wood is very scarce here, and the water, which is much infested with a small red insect, is usually collected in reservoirs, but at the rainy season there is a small stream here. {Jones.) GADER— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Azarbljan, Persia, which rises below the Kelt Shin Pass in the Kendilan mountains, and flowing east and north through the plain of Solduz, falls into the south corner of the Lake of tTrumia. From this river vast numbers of canals are derived, which afford irriga- tion for as much land as is required for cultivation. (Bawlinson ) GADtJK— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Persia over tbe Elburz mountains, which divide Irak Ajami from Mazandaran. From Firoz Koh on the south side to the fort of the pass is a distance of 8 miles. The ascent thence is not very difficult and at the top is the caravanserai of Gaduk, a large substantial building out of repair. Descending on the north side the pass narrows and the road becomes very difiicult. Burnes identifies this pass with the Pyl Caspian through which Alexander pursued Darius. {Burnes — Stuart — Ouseley.) 150 GAH— GAR GAHAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A small district in Irak Ajami, Persia, about 5 miles east of Ispahan. It contains 33 villages, and probably has been more populous formerly than at present. — [Abbott.) GAHWARI— Lat. 34° 20' 35". Long. Elev. A village in the Kirmanshah district, Persia, situated on the other side of the Kala Kazi range west of Kirmanshah. It may contain about 300 houses which are flat-roofed, and rise in terraces on the slope of the mountain. It is the chief place of the Guran tribe. (Bawlinson — Jones.) GALAND KAY AH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, about 20 miles north of Maraud and 18 miles south of Julfah in Russian Armenia. It is described as a large village. (Eastwick. ) GAMROTST— See Bandar Abbass. GAM A SAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Persia formed Jby the junction of three streams, all of which spring from the east of Kirmanshah. The first and most inconsiderable has its commencement about 25 miles west of Hamadan. The second has three springs on the side of Mount Elvand, 6 or 8 miles south of that place. The latter runs south-west till it meets the former on the plain of Maran, about 10 miles south-west of Kangawar, and at a spot nearly 10 miles south of that place, it is joined by the third, or chief branch of the Kerkhah, which comes from the Guran mountains by a north-west course of about 40 miles. The trunk of the three uuited streams under the above name then winds for nearly 30 miles in a general west direction to Besitun, chiefly along the Guran mountains. At this celebrated spot the Gamasab receives the Ab-i- Dinawar coming from the north, and again after a course of about 12 miles nearly south-west another stream, called the Karasu, passing through Kirmanshah at about 20 miles north-north-west of that place. Prom this it is called the Karasu. See (Chesney.) GANGEMNAR- Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, about 60 miles from Hamadan. It is a most forbidding looking place, being a square enclosure of four walls with a tower at each corner set down in a waste without a garden or even a tree near it. (Fraser.) GARMRUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Azarbijan, Persia, lying to the west of Mianah on the Karangu river, and bounded north by the Sarab district, west by the Hashtrud district, and south by the Kizl Ozan river. (Morier.) GARMSAR— The term which is applied to the road which leads from Bandar Abbass by Forghan, Tarone, Farg, and Darab to Shlraz. It is said to be much infested by an insect called " Sinn," aud there is very little forage or pro- visions on it. (Abbott.) GARMSAR— A term applied by the Persians to all warm regions, particularly those that are also desert, or on the borders of deserts. GARPAN— A division of the Kum district of Irak Ajami district, Persia. (Abbott.) 151 GAS— GER GASAIR KHOR— Lat. 29° IP 20". Long. 60°40 , 60'. t Elev. A river of Fars, Persia, which flows into the Persian Gulf a few miles north of Bushahr. The inlet has a fathom and a quarter at low water at the entrance, and 2| to 3 fathoms inside at low water. (Brucks.) GAUR SUFED— Lat. Long. Elev.' A plain in Irak Ajami, Persia, situated about 20 miles east of Firoz Koh. (Morier.) GA.V KHANEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A marsh in Irak Ajami, Persia, 45 miles east of Ispahan near the road to Yezd. It absorbs the waters of the Zendarud which flows by Ispahan. (Abbott.) GAV SAWAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, on the road between Hamadan and SultSnia, situated in a plain. (Morier.) GAWAKAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, on the right bank of Band Amir river. It is an inconsiderable place. (Ouseley.) GAW ALAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A Chaldean village in Urumla, district of Azarbijan, Peria, situated about 5 miles from the west shore and on a small feeder of the lake. (Ainsworth.) GAZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 10 miles north of Ispahan on the Tehran road. It contains five hundred houses, with a caravanserai which has a handsome appearance externally and constructed of brick, not sun-dried, in the usual manner, but hardened by means of fire to the solidity and perhaps the durability of stone. It enjoys a temperate climate. (Ouseley.) GAZE LURI— Lat Long. Elev. A village in the Lehrowi division of the Bebahan district in Khuzistan, Persia. (Layard.) GAZIR SANG— A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 41 miles from Tehran, on the road to Kasvin. It is situated in a large plain, covered with mounds. (Morier.) GEDEN GELMEZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A hill in Irak Ajami, Persia, about 9 miles north, 46° west from Kum. Geden Gelmez are Turkish words, which have the mysterious import of "those who go never return." The hill is also called the Koh Talism, or the talis- manic hill, and is variously described by the natives. Some said that many who have attempted to explore it have never more been heard of; but others less credulous assured us that though such had been the feeling many years ago, yet in later days it had been traversed in all directions, and that men came from it as safe as from any other hill. It should seem that it consists of a tract almost entirely composed of nitre, which crumbles so easily under foot, particularly after rains, that it is dangerous to walk over it. (Morier.) GEHGAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A spring in Kirman, Persia, 6 miles on the road from Basman in the Kohistan of Bilochistan to Regan, from which it is 37 miles. The water is exceedingly brackish, and scarcely drinkable except in dire necessity. (Poltinger.) GERANHA— Lat. Long. Elev. A ruined city in the plain of Genawah, Fars, Persia. There are the ruins of some Hindu temples here. (Petty.) 152 GER— GHA GERM I— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of UjarQd, Azarbijan, Persia, 78 miles north-north- west of Ardabil. It is a large and populous district on the banks of a ravine. The inhabitants are chiefly pastoral and possess large flocks of sheep and droves of cattle. {Todd.) GERTCHIN KALA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, situated about 2 miles south of Dilman on the road to TTrumla. It has received its name from an old castle built on a high promontory overhanging the lake. This stands on a limestone rock and is perforated with caves, and is considered by some to have been the trea- sury of Holaku. The view from the rock embraces the lake and its islands and the surrounding mountains. ( Wagner.) GERUSTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A district in Persia, 5 days' journey south of Miana, in which the Kizl Ozan river rises. (Morier.) GEZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Astrabad near the south shore of the Caspian in the Astrabad Bay, 40 miles east of Astrabad, 4 miles from Gez Bandar. The Russians here maintain three war steamers for the protection of Russian settlers, and of sailing vessels from Astrakhan from the attacks of Turkman pirates. It is a large straggling village of 120 houses. Eastwick says of it, " a more pesti- ferous jungle den can hardly be imagined/' (Vambery — Holmes — Eastwick.) GEZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ispahan district, Persia, 11 miles from Ispahan on the ro.ad from Tehran. It is situated in the midst of cultivation and has a good caravan- serae. {Morier — Taylor.) GEZ BANDAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A port in the Astrabad Bay on the south shore of the Caspian, 40 miles east of Astrabad. It can hardly be called a village, as there are only four or five sheds belonging to the Russians, which are full of skins, the horns of deer, and cotton. The jetty at Gez is a miserable structure of planks, but useful nevertheless, as the water is too low to run a boat close in. It is scrupulously removed in winter, lest it should aid the Russians to land ! All round the sheds is a dense jungle which is filled with wild animals. (Eastwick.) GHAYN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khorasan, Persia, about 70 miles north-west of Farah and south of Birjan, and south-east of Tabas. It is an important fortress, being surrounded with a high embankment, above which is a wall of earth, the whole being protected by a ditch. There are not more than 700 houses within the enciente, but the inhabitants of several villages close to the ' for- tress, and who are dependent upon it, considerably augment the total of the population. This is composed of Arabs and Biloches, and they have the reputation of being a brave though turbulent sect. There are large numbers of sheep, goats and camels in this locality; the horses are good and of Arab blood ; the carpets are considered the best and the dearest in Persia. It is situated in a plain. There is a route from Ghayn to Bandar Abbass through Khubbes, and of late years a considerable traffic has sprung up in opium between these places. The following is Shiel's fist of the tribes of Ghayn:— "It has 13,000 Arabs, who live both in houses and tents, and a tribe called Nekhi, the number of which is unknown ; both speak Persian." 153 v GHA— GHI The Ghayn family are descended from one Nur Ismail Khan, an Arab Syad of the tribe Khazinah, who received a grant of it from the last of the Suffa- vean monarchs. This chief served with distinction in the army of Nadar Shah. Numbers of camels are reared in the plains of Ghayn, and its mountains are covered with sheep, from the wool of which carpets of different texture are made of a quality equal to any produced in Persia. The rulers of this province usually pay their tribute in this manufacture. The revenue of Ghayn under the Suffavean princes was estimated at 12,000 tomans and as many kharbars of grain. - - The district of Ghayn borders on the desert of Seistan, while it is bounded in another quarter by the territories of the Afghans. The military service of the Ghaynis has always been an object to the Shahs of Persia, for they have long enjoyed the reputation of being the hardiest and bravest of the infantry of Khorasan. They are computed at 20,000 families, the usual force maintained by their chief being between 2,000 and 3,000 infantry and a few horse. (Malcolm — Shiel — Ferrier.) GHENDAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A spring in Khorasan near Chasma All and 7 miles from Chardeh. It is situated in a wild and desolate-looking spot ; the volcanic rocks in the imme- diate vicinity are broken up into a thousand fantastic forms, and high on every side rise dreary, black-looking mountains utterly destitute of the least vegeta- tion. The spring, whose name signifies fossil water, issues from a deep cut in the inside of a small hillock ; the water is of a dirty yellowish hue and intensely salt and bitter. The natives believe that if anything unclean be thrown into it, a storm will arise, which will not cease till the water has been cleared of its impurity. (Holmes.) GHERD FILUMERZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Yezd district, Persia, 6 miles west of the town of Yezd. It is situated amidst sand hills, but has much neatly cultivated lands. There is a caravanserae here. (Abbott.) GHEUNBAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 12 miles from Tabrez on the road to Ahar. It contains about 20 houses and is situated at the foot of the hills which here bound a small barren plain. (Holmes.) GHEUN DEUGHDI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, a few miles east of Ahar. It is prettily situated among a few trees in a cleft of the mountain on the right bank of a small stream and contains about 20 houses. Alum is found in its neighbourhood. (Holmes.) GHILAN— Lat. 36°30' to 37°45'. Long. 48°30' to 50°45'. A province of Persia, bounded on the north by the Caspian, east by Mazan- daran, south by Khamseh and Azarbijan, and west by Azarbijan. Its length is about 150 miles, and its breadth varies exceedingly, according as the moun- tains advance or recede from the Caspian, from 20 miles to 60 miles. Its area in square miles is 4,673. The province is divided into the low, unhealthy, jungle-clad plains which skirt the Caspian and the lofty hills to the south of the province. The mountain system of Ghilan is formed of two distinct ranges divided from each other by the Kizl Ozan. The northernmost of the ranges ema- nates from the Savalan Dagh in Azarbijan, and runs due north and south being called the Bagra Koh or Talish Mountains to the north, and the 154 GUI Masula Mountains to the south. These encroach very closely on the Caspian, and their east spurs die away into the plain before reaching that sea. The southern range of Ghilan is that which is known further to the east as the ElbQrz range, which has its origin in the mountains of Kur- distan. This range does not impinge so closely in the coast, but still it leaves but little level ground at its foot. Both these ranges are, I believe, covered with dense jungle and forest, and are covered with snow in the winter. The roads across them are, I believe, without exception of an exceedingly impracticable nature. The only river of the least importance in Ghllan is the Kizl Ozan, and besides this are the Mongodeh, Shimerud, Langerud, Yarason, Pul-i-rud, Gazirud, Larthijan, Manzerud, Sirkerrehrud, Hasanbad, Usian, Mlandehrad, none of these are of any size ; the Pixl-i-rud, Sirkerrehrud, and Miandehrud are the largest. The climate of Ghllan has the very worst reputation, indeed so insalu- brious is it considered by the Persians of other provinces that it has passed into a proverb, " He who is tired of life let him go to Ghllan." In winter, spring, and autumn it is not so bad, but even then the exceeding dampness and relaxing nature of the atmosphere render a sojourn there far from desir- able, from the frequency of cold and rheumatism and from pains in the limbs and knees which a prolonged residence entails. From the beginning of June to the end of September, the flat country is reputed to be almost uninhabitable by a European or other stranger to the climate. The neigh- bouring mountains, however, offer a salubrious refuge during this period, but a person is there in complete seclusion and cut off from intercourse with the neighbourhood. by the distance and badness of the roads. The natives of the low country have almost all a sickly appearance, a healthy-looking face being a rarity ; the mountaineers are less sallow, but even they are not very healthy in appearance. During the unhealthy months the inhabitants always sleep on raised platforms, — a sure sign of a damp, malarious climate. Fraser mentions a very malignant and inveterate cutaneous disorder which prevailed not only among the lower but among the better classes, which he attributes to dirt and a total want of any remedial measures. Another very common disease is a sort of joint evil by which the patient suffers the loss of his toes and fingers one after another as in joint leprosy. Fraser, how- ever, did not consider it the same, for the countenance has not the swelled and leprous appearance of that malady. Other cutaneous disorders, as ringworms, ulcers, &c, are also very common. Gmelin mentions the small-pox as fre- quently visiting Ghllan. It is said to be brought by, or generally consequent upon, a particular wind which blows from the south, and it remains epidemic for from six to twelve months, after which its virulence relaxes and it gradually disappears. A dreadful plague visited the country some years ago, and carried off a large number of its inhabitants. I can find no notice whatever of the mineralogy of Ghllan, and this may be owing to the fact that no European has ever remained long in that pro- vince, all my authorities who visited it at all having merely marched through it. The wild animals found in Ghllan are the tiger, panther, wild boar, jackal, and marten, an animal called the vaspen, a sort of lynx and wild cat. There are more than one species of goat and deer ; of the latter there is a fine animal called the maral. Others also are found in the rivers. 155 GHI The cows of Mazandaran and Ghilan are of small size, and resemble the lesser breeds of that animal in India ; they have small humps, but those of the bulls are larger ; they differ from the cattle of Upper Persia, which are of a better size, have less of the hump, and sometimes resemble the English breeds. The sheep are all small, and of the common- tailed sort; but few of the ' dhoombas/ or fat-tailed sheep, so common in other parts of Persia, are here to be seen, the few there are have been brought chiefly as pets, or by some accidental circumstance. No large horses are bred in these provinces, as neither the climate nor the nature of the country seem at all adapted to them : but there are excellent ponies that answer all purposes much better. They are strong, stout ani- mals, very much resembling Highland ponies, which will carry enormous burthens through their worst roads in winter; near 300 lbs. is the usual load, but they often carry a great deal more. The road to Plrl Bazar, the vil- lage where goods for Enzeli are shipped from Ptesht, extends for five miles through one continued series of sloughs and bogs in deep jungle ; and having never been regularly made, each carrier leads his beasts as he best can, tak- ing a new tract when former ones have become impassable. No weather ever puts more than a temporary stop to the traffic along this wretched path ; and it is entirely carried on by means of these ponies, a certain number of which are continually employed in it, and carry their heavy loads to the jour- ney's end, although after a shower they sink to the girths at each step. There is a great variety of birds in the woods. The pheasant is very plentiful, also the woodcock in its season, and the lake and its reedy islands and the marshes harbour myriads of wild fowl of many kinds. In summer the swarms of gnats and flies render a residence in this country far from agreeable. The population of Ghilan is at present small, being estimated as low as 100,000, but this appears to Abbott, my latest authority, an under-valuation. It is very difficult however to form an idea of its probable amount from the peculiar nature of the country. The dense forest which covers it, by con- cealing from the view of the traveller the habitation of the people, except such as are immediately in his line of route, precluded his forming any esti- mate from what came under his observation, and there were no public records to which to refer. Previous to the dreadful plague of 1830, the province was well peopled, Fraser saying " that it is great in proportion to the extent of the ground no one can doubt/' but full two-thirds of the population would appear to have been carried off by that calamity, from which the country has never recovered. Abbott mentions that a person with whom he conversed told him that 40 individuals of his own family living in Ghilan, 36 fell victims to this plague. Many thousand labourers from the Khalkhal districts of the west side of the Talish mountains find employment here during the winter in the clear- ing and cultivation of land, hewing of wood, felling of timber, building and other employments requiring bodily strength, for which their weak and sickly constitutions incapacitate the natives of Ghilan. These labourers return to their homes in spring, for they cannot endure in summer the fatal climate of this low swampy country. The Ghllanis are far from an ill-looking race of people; they are not so ruddy as the natives of the higher provinces, and persons of a dark almost of a black complexion, are oftener to be met with than among these • but they 156 GHI are by no means deficient in size or muscular strength. Their features are well marked and fine, and a bad beard is uncommon. It has been frequently- remarked that the Persian children are beautiful ; more so, perhaps than they commonly are in Europe ; but in Ghllan they are particularly so, Fraser says "in the course of my rambles among the different divisions of the town, I have often stopped to look at the crowds of boys and girls that ran about, occupied with their little plays ; all of them handsome, and many of them perfect features of health and beauty. Some amongst the girls of six or seven years old poss- essed features so regularly delicate, and shapes so elegant and so formed, that they united, in a very remarkable manner, the charms of their age with the maturer beauty of approaching womanhood. " Of the women, a stranger can seldom have it in his power to speak from extensive experience ; but many of those among the lower and middling classes whose faces I saw were extremely handsome, and possessed a delicacy of feature and expression seldom seen in Europe, except among the better orders of society. Of the superior classes I could not possibly see many, except when a veil put carelessly on chanced to be blown aside, • in a path little frequented, — a circumstance which not unfrequently occurred ; and upon such occasions I have seen a lovely face, although I cannot say that it was fairer than, or diflered materially from, those of his owner's attendants." The beauty of the higher orders might perhaps be accounted for in some measure by the constant importation of female slave for the seraglios, from Georgia, Circassia, and Armenia,— a practice which must tend to improve their personal appearance ; but it cannot affect the lower classes, whose good looks are probably to be referred to the life of moderate and healthy labour they lead in a fruitful country, the climate of which is nowise intemperate. There is little peculiarity in the dress of the Ghllanis ; some of them wear, instead of the Persian ' kabba/ or outer vest, a dressing more resembling the Turkman gown, but smaller, barely meeting in front, and buttoning in a straight line from the breast to the' waist. The ' shulwars/ or large trowsers, rolls of cloth for stockings about the legs, and the Kurdish shoe or leathern sock, are worn here as in Mazandaran ; but instead of the common Persian dagger, they hang the Lesghi " cummeree," or broad two-edged knife, from the girdle. This terrible weapon, so deadly in brawls and private quarrels, is formed of tempered steel; its blade varies from one to two feet in length, and from two to three inches broad close to the hilt, and is exceedingly sharp on both edges, and ending in a very sharp point ; it is fitted with a handle of horn, or black wood, adapted to the size of the hand. It is a perfect cut and thrust weapon, and the larger ones from their breadth, size, and shape put one in mind of the description given us of the Roman sword. The wounds which they inflict are large and ghastly, and when given in serious earnest generally mortal. These " cummerees" are used throughout all the hilly districts of Azarbijan and Ghilan, &c, as well as in Arme- nia and Georgia, commonly serving in place of swords, and are manufac- tured in most of the towns between Tabrez and Tiflis inclusive. The Indian method of carrying loads slung on either end of a stick carried across the shoulder is practised here; grass, fruit, vegetables, and other market commodities are brought into town in this manner ; and it is the custom of every one to carry a small basket of reeds in his hands, in which he puts every thing he requires for common use, or for journeys ; 157 GHI it serves as a pocket, and a wallet too ; and being flexible, it folds up and goes under the arm when empty and expands as required when filled. The food of the Ghilanis is very simple and light. Rice and fish are the principal articles. Besides these they have abundance of fine poultry and horned cattle, but mutton is not commonly to be met with except in autumn when all classes are in the habit of consuming meat. Neither fat or butter is used in cookery, nor is any sort of bread eaten except in the towns, the people generally believing it to be injurious to their health in this climate. The houses are, as has been remarked, very much scattered, generally consisting of three or four, placed together in the heart of the forest. They seldom present the appearance of regular villages, and are so much screened from view by the jungle that one is frequently not aware of their neighbourhood. They are usually clean and neat within, and instead of car- peting they have beautiful mats, the reeds for which are obtained in abundance all over the country. The natives of Ghllan are notorious for their bigotry, ignorance and prejudice ; they have seldom seen Europeans, and those they are most ac- quainted with have generally been Russians . The care these prejudiced people take to avoid contract with a Christian as he passes them in the streets in rainy weather (when he is looked upon as particularly unclean) is perfectly ridiculous. In the neighbouring province of Azarbijan this pre- judice has almost passed away, but the Ghilaiks have yet to learn a lesson which a visit from their Russian neighbours may one day teach them. The language of Ghllan Proper is the Ghllaik, a dialect of the Persian which is spoken with great rapidity and less sonorous than the Persian of other parts. The language of the Talish district which bounds Ghllan on the north is another dialect of Persian, and it has been ascertained to contain much more Pehlevl than either the Ghllaik or the language of Mazandaran. Of twenty substantives which Abbott noted of the Ghllaik, only two varied from the modern Persian ; in the same num- ber of words and of the same meaning in the Talish language there were only nine which corresponded with the Persian either exactly or approxi- mately ; the great difference in the former dialect appears to be in the verbs and in the pronunciation. In Ghllan gypsies are more numerous than elsewhere. They preserve the characteristics of their race as in other parts of the world. Fortune tellino- is the occupation of the women. They live in little camps formed of miserable tents in which they migrate from the hot to the cold country according to the season. The donkey is their companion, and his master is the profes- sional vendor of pots and pans. In features and habits they differ but little from their brethren in the West, and like them they have preserved in their language the trace of the Hindustani origin. In Persian they are called Kaola, which word is supposed to denote a connection with an origin from Kabal. There are few places in Ghllan deserving the appellation of towns. Resht and Lahijan in fact stand alone as such. Enzeli is but a poor fishing village dependent on Resht, as Langarud is on Lahajan. Pomen, Masulah Kiskar and Teregoran are large villages with tolerable bazaars. The soil of Ghllan appears to be in some parts a rich vegetable stratum, on one of sand-stone and pebbles ; it is probable from this circumstance and 158 GHI from marine shells being found under ground that at some period the low country was all under the sea. Among the vegetable productions, wheat and barley are only cultivated in trifling quantities near the mountains, and all that is required for con- sumption in the towns is brought from other provinces. Great quantities of wild hops grow, but are not converted to any use. Hemp also grows wild, and is used in making ropes for packing silk. Wild fruit grows everywhere in abundance, but none is cultivated, except oranges, lemons and limes. Grapes are in the utmost abundance, and the vines which grow wild in the mountains support themselves in the trunks and branches of the trees. They are however from want of attention not of the best quality, and like the other fruits of Ghilan are esteemed unwholesome. The flora of the province is exceedingly rich. Amongst the trees, the oak and beech are in abundance, but the former is seldom of great girth. A species of very thorny acacia grows all over the country, and the pomegranate and other wild fruit trees which abound give to the forests a charming appearance at certain seasons. The vallies too in the right season are strewn with flowers, honeysuckle, sweet briars and roses. Cotton and sugarcane do not thrive in Ghilan, but these form almost the solitary exceptions. The staple production however of Ghilan is silk. The management of the worm is conducted in a very simple and primitive manner, which is thus described by Holmes, pages 96 to 104. " About the commencement of April, the bags in which the eggs are pre- served during the winter are exposed to a moderate heat in some shady corner of the house ; in general, however, the women carry them under their arms, as the warmest part of the body. The eggs are never exposed to the full heat of the sun, which would scorch and destroy them, and animal heat is preferred. The young worms are placed in any spare pots or pans which will suffice to hold them, and are fed with the leaves of the mulberry chopped into small pieces ; if the spring happen to be late, and the worms are hatched before the mulberry is in leaf, the leaves of the coriander are substituted. The worms live for about forty days, during which period they become torpid, or, as the natives say, go to sleep four times ; each sleep endures about two days, and the interval between is from seven to ten days. "When the insects awake from their first torpidity, they are re- moved from the pans in which they have been kept, and are placed in the ' tilambar/ " From this period they are fed with mulberry-leaves, whole branches being placed on the bed on which the worm is reared ; their voracity is extraordinary, and after each sleep they become more and more ravenous. " The ' tilambar' is a shed formed of nine or ten trunks of trees stripped of their branches, and driven into the earth in the form of an oblong square. These posts support a roof composed of the branches of trees thatched with rice straw ; the eaves project several feet from the walls, as a protection against the sun and rain. Six or seven feet from the ground, round the shed, a scaffolding about two feet wide is erected, on which the proprietor walks to feed the insects ; and, at a little lower level, the whole centre is occupied by a platform which serves as the bed where they remain while they exist as worms. The scaffolding encircling the bed is called the bridge, from which a curtain of rice straw is suspended, joining the 159 GHI platform, to protect the silkworms from wind. This, with a ladder to ascend the bridge, completes a ' tilambar/ The walls of the shed are com- posed of reeds, and have two openings, one of which serves as a door, and the other, on the opposite side, affords the means of ventilation. If the weather happens to be cold, which, however, is rarely the case, the place is heated artificially. The ordinary dimensions of a ' tilambar' are about twenty feet long, seventeen or eighteen broad, and thirteen high ; the bed is some five feet from the ground. " On being removed to the ' tilambar/ the silkworms are placed on a litter of the green branches of the mulberry ; and when the leaves are devoured, fresh boughs are given them without removing the old ones. The bed is not cleansed until it is absolutely necessary, from the collection of old branches, and from the strong effluvium arising from the ordure and the worms which have died. The rubbish is then removed from beneath, and the five worms which fall during the process are carefully replaced. At first, one man usually suffices for the management of a ' tilambar •' he goes into the plantations, cuts the branches, and, mounting the bridge, distri- butes them to the worms ; but after the last sleep the operation becomes more serious, and three or four hands — generally the wife and children of the proprietor, who is himself the manager — hardly suffice to supply the insects, their demand for food is so great. In wet weather no care whatever is taken to dry the leaves, and consequently sometimes a moiety of the worms sicken and die. " At the expiration of about forty days the worms become of a transparent hue, cease to eat, and exhibit a desire to climb the boughs to form their co- coons. This is a season of universal jubilee to the peasantry of Ghilan, for now their labour ceases. Indeed, they have every reason to rejoice, as in this damp and hot climate the gathering of the branches is no ordinary toil, and often occasions deadly fevers. Boughs of the elm, alder, and other trees, the leaves of which the worms never eat, are now placed upright in the bed, their upper extremities being fastened to the cross-beams in the roof, when the insects ascend and begin to spin. The ladder is then taken away, the shed is closed, and all access forbidden during ten days. At the end of this time the proprietor, accompanied by his family and the tax-gatherer, who must be present, enters the ' tilambar/ and having removed the boughs with which the place is encumbered, they behold the entire roof covered with the beautiful white and yellow cocoons. The tax is levied according to the size of the bed ; that is, for every twenty measures from the elbow of the proprietor to the tip of his middle finger is paid three-quarters of a ' maun shahee' of the raw silk ; thus the tax, having reference to the pro- duce, may be either heavy or light, according to the favorableness of the season. The total revenue on the production of silk in Ghilan amounts to between 1,40,000 and 150,000 tomans (70,000/. and 75,000/.) A large ' tilambar' will yield about four mauns shahee (fifty-two pounds) of good silk. " The cocoons are now gathered and given to the women. Those which are to be wound off are either exposed to the sun, or immersed in boilinff water to destroy the chrysalis. " Those destined for the reproduction of the species are put into pans made for the purpose, and placed in a cool part of the house, where in process of time the moth starts into life. 160 GHI " A harmless snake, the coluber aquaticus, is procured from the rivers and placed in each ' tilambar' as a tutelar deity. If it does not remain there voluntarily, it is confined in a cage, though I was assured it seldom seeks to leave the place, but ranges about it at large, most probably destroying the vermin which might injure the worms. The proprietor regards the reptile with such reverence that, if perchance he finds it asleep, he will not venture to awaken it ; he believes that a good or bad ' raccolta'' depends entirely on its favor, and that, if he should not be able to procure one for his ' tilambar/ the silk will either be coarse, or the worms die, or no pur- chaser be found. If a man is at enmity with another, the greatest injury he can inflict on him is to kill his snake. " The size of the reel on which the cocoons are wound off is larger than that used for the silk usually imported into England from other countries ; consequently it cannot be wound by our ordinary machines, and is less valuable than it would otherwise be. Attempts have been made to pur- suade the Ghilanis to use a reel of the proper dimensions ; the advan- tages of their so doing have been explained, and measures of the proper size have been given to them, hitherto, however, with little success. They usually offer two objections : the first is,' that their forefathers have from time immemorial used the same reel, and why, therefore, should they pre- sume to change it ? The other is, that the lesser reel would occupy more time, which they could not afford, as the country is thinly populated and all hands fully employed. To obviate this, Mr. A constructed a simple machine, consisting of a reel of the proper dimensions with two wheels to multiply the motion, to the extent that each turn of the handle would give four evolutions of the reel, and would wind off as much silk as about three turns of the larger reel. It remains to be seen whether the saving of labour, the higher price offered, and the greater demand, will induce them to fore- go their prejudice and adopt this new reel. Last year, indeed, some two ' mauns shahee' were wound off on short reels ; but they were of irregular measures, and thus the trial was abortive. " An experienced rearer of the silk-worm will, by long habit, decide with- out hesitation which of the cocoons will produce the finest quality of silk ; there are twelve different sorts of them, distinguished by their respective names. The districts of Fomen, Resht, and Lahijan are said to produce the best silk in Ghilan, some of which will bear comparison with the finest from "Broussa. There is also a small quantity of the most beautiful quality equal to the best Italian or Chinese silk; it is not, however, con- fined to any particular district, but it is found and sold among that of ordinary quality. Out of the whole produce of the province, something above 100,000 mauns shahee, there may be about 150 of this silk. A Greek mercantile house purchased this year about 12,000 ' mauns shahee/ out pf which was picked three packages of this superior quality. Were it collected and sold separately, it would be worth some twenty ' tomauns'' per ' maun shahee ■' while that of ordinary quality is only worth from ten to fourteen tomauns. The finest of this latter description sells at from fourteen to eighteen tomauns, the variations in price being regulated by the season and the demand. " Mulberry plantations meet the eye at every turn throughout Ghilan. The tree is raised from seed in the following manner : — The fruit is allowed to hang on the branches till it falls of itself, when it is crushed into a pulp, and 161 w GHI portions put into holes in the earth four inches deep. The superfluous plants are thinned out, so as to leave the rest about three feet apart. Some five or six years are necesssary before the leaves can be gathered from the young tree without damaging it. Both the black and white mulberry are employ- ed in the plantations, which are only allowed to grow a little above the ordinary height of a man ; for the convenience of gathering the leaves, the stems are stripped of their shoots, but a head is encouraged. The closeness of the trees and the shade which one affords the other render the leaves very tender. The trees are carefully pruned every spring, the shoots of the year alone affording the nutriment on which the worms thrive well : the leaves of the old branches are hard and indigestible, and the inequalities of the bark wound the insects. " The annual reccolta in Ghilan amounts in a moderate season to some- thing more than 100,000 'mauns shahee' (l,300,0001bs.) of good silk, in addition to a great portion of waste or of inferior kind, the quantity of which is not ascertained. Some say that it is about half, and some that it is fully as much as the fine. " According to M. Chodzko, the exportation of silk from Ghilan in 1839 and 1840 was as follows : — 1839. 1840. To Russia ... ... Maims shahee 10,134 9,949 „ England .. ... „ „ 29,178 47,568 „ Baghdad... . . „ „ 3,504 7,750 „ the interior.of Persia... „ „ 7,638 6,432 Mauns shahee 50,454 71,699 " Add to these sums 40,000 f mauns shahee' employed in the manufactures of Ghilan and Mazandaran, and the average of the two years will give about 1 00,000 ' mauns shahee. 3 All persons, however, agree that the rearing of the silk- worm has been yearly on the increase, so that the present pro- duce will most probably exceed the above average. " M. Chodzko has made a slight mistake in saying that so much is ex- ported ' to England; ' it should have been ' to Constantinople/ whence the silk is dispersed over Europe. " The silk for exportation is packed in " ferdehs " or ballots, each sup- posed to contain six mauns shahee. For every bale sent by way of Tabrez to Constantinople or the interior, a duty of one tomaun and a half is paid here, but on those shipped to Eussia through Enzeli three tomauns are levied. The Russians, however, embale from seven to nine mauns shahee instead of the usual six; and when the customer complains, they silence him by threatening to take their silk to Tabrez and pay the duty there, which would be so much out of his pocket, as he farms the duty at a fixed price, the excess above which is for his own profit." There are few countries more completely protected by nature against external aggression than Ghilan, for its coast is lined with a belt of impene- trable forest, which shows a most disheartening aspect to a invading foe, whose perplexity would be completed by the deep "mardabs" or back waters and extensive morasses, equally covered with forests that lie behind the first barrier. At the same time these very obstacles would, prove the best advantage to the defenders acquainted with their intricacies, and afford them means of securely annoying their enemies. On the south 162 GUI the passes through the mountains are of extreme steepness, difficulty, and length, and might be defended or obstructed with so much ease that no hostile army unassisted by treachery could hope to force them, or if it succeeded in reaching the places below would find itself embarassed in a maze of jungles and morasses impervious with a guide, and even under every advantage presenting the most serious difliculties to the march of many troops encumbered with baggage and military stores. Monteith has formed no less decided an opinion of the impracticability of Ghilan, saying that if the Persians were only united, nothing ought to be more desired than an attack from the side of the Caspian ; for had he not been forced to traverse it, he would have had' no hesitation in reporting it impracticable, and it certainly is not possible to journey through it unless by the aid of the cattle belonging to the inhabitants. In summer it might be practicable to advance along the banks of the Kizl Ozan, which then occupies but a small part of its bed, but immediately beyond its banks are deep rice swamps so unhealthy as to have obtained the appellation the district of death. Should an enemy force his way through these impediments, the difliculties of driving the defenders from the steep and lofty mountains which bound Ghilan on the west would be still greater, supported as they would be by the population of the neighbouring parts of Persia. In fact, he winds up, nothing but a combined movement from both sides of the mountains by an army already possessed of the upper country would easily accomplish that object. All the roads in Ghilan are on the worst state it is possible to conceive ; those around Resht have been left in the most extraordinary state of neglect and disorganisation, purposely and avowedly with the object of keeping off invasion. It was once suggested to one of the governors by the agent of a neighbouring power that great advantage would result from the repair of the roads and the cleansing of the bed of a small stream which flows near Resht. Both these were undertaken, but so great was the jealousy of the people that the governor's conduct was immediately represented and he was reprimanded. Since then the roads and river have again become as impracticable as ever, and the former can scarce be termed roads, as it is with the utmost difficulty any beast of burden can pass them. There is no doubt that the bad roads on one occasion saved the capital from a visit from the Russians, who were in consequence obliged to abandon the advance on it they had commenced from Enzeli. Ghilan is usually governed by a royal prince who usually resides at Resht. "Throughout the whole of Ghilan the population may be divided into two distinct classes. The first or that which inhabits the plains exclusively remain stationary in villages or towns, where they cultivate rice, wheat, sugar, cotton, silk, and their habits are in all respects similar to those of the peasantry in other peaceable parts of the country. These people are of course- regularly assessed, and the revenue derived from them is fixed, because their means are known. The second class consists of those who inhabit the skirts of the hills and the valleys amongst them, as well as the villages nearest their base, during the cold season, but who retire in the hot weather to their summits, and are thus subject to a periodical change of abode. Some of these cultivate land to an extent which holds proportion with the goodness of the soil they possess 163 GHI and the advantageous position of their villages, but their chief dependence is upon flocks and herds which in spring are sent to the lower hills for pasture, and with which they move higher and higher as the season advances in warmth. Those villagers who cultivate land plant their rice, or whatever their crop may consist of, and having done so leave a few of their number to watch its progress and perform the necessary operations; while the greater number with their wives and families move upwards to their " yeilaks" along with their chiefs, where they all lead a pastoral life, until the approach of the cold weather, and want of pasture forces them down again. Each tribe has its own " yeilak" and mountain lands, as well as its own villages and cultivable land below, distinct from others, and they never interfere with one another; but within their respective boundaries every one strays or plants his tent in his hut where he pleases. " It is evident that the arrangement and collection of stated assessment among people who lead a life so irregular must be a duty of great difficulty to the officers of the government, and much must therefore be left to the chiefs who retain for themselves as much as they possibly can. They, in their turn, are squeezed from time to time by government, and thus matters are equalized, though not in a very regular or systematic manner." Praser states the full revenue of Ghflan amounts to from 200 to 210,000 tomauns, or from £110,000 to £115,000 sterling a year; this arises from the customs and the land tax, which prevails all over the country. The former, according to Hajt Miila Baba, should produce about 45,000 tomauns one year with another ; that the collection of the renter may exceed this by a fourth, which is his own profit. The rate of duty is one in twenty, or five per cent, on all imports, at a calculation which is generally settled between the parties. No exports except silk and silk goods are taxed ; the standing duty of the former is two reals per maun shahee, or two mauns tabreez, equal to 14£Ibs. English; on manufactured goods it is the same as upon foreign goods imported. The land tax is the same as is levied in other places, amounting to one- fifth of the gross produce ; and there is also a tax laid upon shops in the towns. Of the whole amount thus raised, the king receives but 160,000 tomauns, the balance of from 40 to 50,000 being assigned as a provision for the prince governor. Monteith says the revenue of Grhllan amounts to about 300,000 tomauns, and Holmes puts it at 2,000,000, and states that besides some 40,000 to 60,000 tomauns are sent to Tehran annually in the form of presents and bribes. Mr. Pasley however gives the following statement : — "Kesht, 47,908 tomauns; Fomen, 36,271; Lahijan, 37,768; Safukadam, 2,448; Kaskin, 15,674; Deilawa, 6,789; Khidmut (and 5 per cent, on the revenue) 5,988 ; total 152,850. Out of this 3,359 tomauns are paid away in salaries in the province, leaving 149,490 tomauns as the net revenue. Abbott in his note on this province observes in conclusion that though it is on wretched hands and kept in the most shameful state of neglect, it is in proportion to its extent the richest province in Persia. Its inhabitants appear to possess a great deal of wealth. Among the highest classes there are large fortunes, and traders with from 2,000 to 5,000 tomauns capital are very numerous. Of the military resources of Ghilan, not much is known. The Ghllaiks are not held in much estimation as soldiers by other Persians, though Shiel says they make good irregular troops amongst their own jungles, and certainly their conduct in repulsing with heavy loss the Russian 164 GHI— GIR attempt to advance in Resht does not speak against them. Holmes says the governor of Resht maintains a force of 150 Astrabad musketeers and 150 artil- lerymen, and besides the Talish chiefs are bound to furnish 600 men. These last are usually armed with a long flint-lock gun, a thick stick and the kum- mer mentioned above, and are said to be miserable sickly-looking lot. The name Ghilan is said to be appropriately derived from " Ghil" signi- fying mud. Ghilan was ceded to Russia in treaty in June 17SJ4 in consideration of aid which was to be granted by Peter The Great to Shah Thamasp in driving out the Afghans, and though this treaty was disowned by the Shah, a Russian force variously stated at from 6,000 to 10,000 men was landed under command of General Matuschkin, and took possession of the country almost without resistance about June 1726. They retained possession of it till 1736, when the General commanding was ordered to evacuate it, but showing some hesitation in obeying this order, Nadar Shah, who by that time had succeeded to the throne, sent him a message that he would send his ' farashes' to sweep him into the sea, and as his troops advanced at the same time as if to put this threat into execution, the Russians embarked with great precipitation. But though they thus left it, it is said that the Russian government has never ceased to covet its possession again, and that they do not hesitate even now to assert their claim to it. (Kinneir — MonteitA — Fraser — Shiel— Holmes — Chesney — Abbott — Omelin.) GHITCH— A pass in Kbiizistan, Persia, between Behbahan and Dagumbasan. It is said to be difficult, but practicable for guns, and with a little labour might be made more so. (Jones.) GHIZDIS— Is a synonymous title with Iliyat, signifying " nomadic." GHOR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, situated about three miles from Natanz. It is described as a most delightful place standing on rising ground, giving it the appearance of a fortress from a distance ; around it is an extensive plain. — JJjebmn.) GIL^WAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, on the left bank of the Kizl Ozan river, east from Zanjan and west from the Rudbar pass over the Masula mountains. It is large and neat, situated in a small district called Piisht-i-Koh, the inhabitants of which are for the most part Kurds of the Auberlu division of the great Lulu tribe. The only wood near it consists of fruit trees, poplars, and a kind of willow called by the natives " sinjid." (Bawlinson — Fraser.) GILPAEGAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Irak Ajami, Persia, 87 miles north-west of Ispahan, on the road to Hamadan. It is situated in an extensive and most fertile valley. Grain is so cheap in this part of Persia as to have only a nominal value, but there is no less extensive mode of exporting it except by mules. The town is described as being in a more than ordinaiy state of decay, .but it has a sort of fort. Water is plentiful from " kanats." (Shiel.) GIRDBAL^— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 8 miles west of Nishapur, situated on the same plain as that town. (Gibbons.) 165 GIR— GON GIRI— Lat. Long. _ Elev. • A village in Fars, Persia, about 70 miles from Bushahr to Shiraz. A road which leads hy this place is practicable for guns. (Jones.) GISAKHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. about 3,500. A hill in the district of Pars, Persia, about 30 miles of east Bushahr. There is a plateau here varying from half mile to three miles in breadth, on which are some villages and streams of water. Pelly thinks it probable that good coal would be found on this hill. The climate is superior to the plain country but inferior to that of the plains beyond the Kotal-i-Plr-zan and Shiraz. The road to it is precipitous and boulder-strewn. A force camping at Glsakhan would have to bring all its supplies from the sea-board. Firewood however can be collected from brush- wood and scrubby trees, which are more or less sparsely sprinked over the hills. (Pelly— Colvitte.) GISHKOH— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village and fort in Ears, Persia, 100 miles north-west of Bandar Abbas, 240 miles south of Yezd, and 120 miles south-west of Kirman. It is a most miserable place, consisting of a few ruinous hovels. (Abbott.) GOBAN.— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in the province of Khuzistan, Persia, situated in the delta formed by the estuary of the Shat-ul-Arab and the Karun, and inhabited by the Chab Arabs. (Layard.) GODAR SHORAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 77 miles north-east of Bandar Abbas, on the road to Kirman. There are only 4 or 5 huts here on the bank of a dry river. (Smith.) GODIPE— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia. It is a large village situated two miles from the west bank of the Lake TTrQmia, inhabited by Neatorian Christians. ( Wagner.) GOGAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 30 miles south of Tabrez, 5 miles from Deh Kurgan. It is one of a cluster of villages dependent on Deh Kurgan, and is surrounded by a belt of gardens of about a mile in depth. A considerable quantity of fruit and timber is expected from it to Tabriz ; the former con- sisting of peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums ; and the latter of poplar and plane. Gogan is celebrated as the scene of the conference between Paskiwitch and the Prince Royal of Persia after the occupation of Tabriz by the Russians in 1826 ? (Raiolinson.) GOHINAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bushahr district of Pars, Persia, situated about 3£ miles from Tangistan. It contains 100 houses and pays a revenue of 100 tomauns. (Pelly.) GOLARISTtJK— Lat. Long. Elev. A small division of Mazandaran, Persia, between the crest of the Demavand ridge and Amol, consisting of a cluster of small villages near the pass towards Tehran. (Fraser.) GOLJIK. — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 7 miles north of Tehran. (Shiel ) GONDAR— v ' A tribe who inhabit the wild country near Ashraf in Mazandaran. They number 500 souls, and are said to be of no religion, and place no restriction in the intercourse of the sexes. Their principal food is the flesh of the wild hog They are said to be unerring shots with the bow and matchlock. (Morier.j 166 GOU— GOY GOUD-I-BANG— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in KhorasSn, Persia, 26 miles south-west of Shahrud. The village was deserted when Clerk visited it from fear of Turkmans, but there is a well of water here. {Clerk.) GORAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Pars, Persia, 12 miles from Bushahr on the Plrozahad road. There is plenty of water here, as well as groves of date trees. {Jones.) GORAM— A village in the island of Kishm, Persian Gulf, at the entrance of the straits of the same name. It may be known by an old mosque. There are some reservoirs here, and after rain there is plenty of good water. It is said to have formerly been a Portuguese station. {JBrucks.) GORV — Long. Long. Elev. A village on the island of Kishm, Persian Gulf, about five miles from Bassadore. It produces a few dates, vegetables, and other supplies. (Brucks.) GOTWAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the province of Khuzistan, Persia, situate on the right bank of the Karun, 20 miles above ShustSr. It is inhabited chiefly by Lurs of the Bedarwand tribe. There is a road from this place to Ispahan and another to Shtistar. {Layard.) GOUR-I-S0FED— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in the province of Fars, Persia, over the range of mountains which run across that province in a direction from north-east to south-west. {Ckesney.) GOUSIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river in Irak Ajaml, Persia, which is crossed 60 miles on the road from Tehran to Ispahan. (Clerk.) GOWDIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kircaan, Persia, 12 miles east-south-east of Khubbes. It is a ruinous looking place of scattered houses, sheltered amid groves of palm, orange, and lemon trees. This village and the neighbouring village of Andujard have between them 12,000 or 15,000 palm trees. Tobacco and / henna are cultivated here. {Abbott.) *GOWK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 27 miles south of Khubbes and 66 miles north-west of Bam. It is situate in a valley about 2 J miles in breadth and several miles in length north-west and south-east. The village contains some 1,500 families, and covers with its gardens and houses a space of about three miles in length. It possesses two mud forts situated towards either extremity, but they having sometimes been rebellious are not now permitted to occupy them, and they are falling to ruin : one of them has a ditch into which water may be conveyed. Gowk is attached to the government of Khubbes, but is regarded as a separate district, though only containing one village — Gowk itself. The place possesses little field cultivation, but its gardens produce a great quantity of grapes, some of which are dried and exported to many parts of the country and are even sent to India. At this village there is a deep pool about 15 yards wide, which the inhabitants denominate a " daria" or sea, and believe vto be fathomless. {Abbott.) gOyem— A village in Fars, Persia, 15 miles from Shiraz, on the Behbahan road. It has many fruit gardens, and grain and slaughter cattle are procurable, as also fuel. The climate is considered salubrious. {Jones.) 167 GUA— GUL GtJART BALA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, two miles from Nishapur, on the road to Sabzavar. It is situated on an extensive, populous, and well watered plain. (M. S. Route) GtJDAR MtJGAT— Lat. Long. _ Elev. A pass in Kirman, Persia, from the valley of the Eud Khaneh Saghder, 35 miles south of Bam into the valley of Jaruft. This pass is described as difficult, rough, and rocky, the hills around being scantily clothed with shrubs and the " koonar" tree. {Abbott.) GUCHEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorassan, Persia, 20 miles west of Damghan, on the great Tehran-Mashad road. There is a caravanserae here, but no supplies what- ever are procurable. (Ferrier.) GtiDAR NAL SHIKAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia, about four miles north of JehriJm, on the road to Firozabad. It leads over a range running north-west to south-east, and is not very difficult. [Abbott.) GtJETCH— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia, situated to the left of the Tang-i-Turkan between Kumarij and Kazirun. If the latter were defended, this pass affords a means of turning it. (Sutherland.) GUHAHDAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Zeitun district of Khuzistan, Persia. (Layard.) GtTLINEH— A village in the province of Persian Kurdistan, about 8 miles from the source of the Kizl Ozan. It is a frontier village between the districts of Hasnabad and Kara Torow. (Rick.) GtTLASHGORD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, on the plain of Rudbar, 234 miles south of Kirman. It is described as a large reed village with a castle standing on an eminence near some bare rocky hills, and overlooking an extensive plain in the direction of Bandar Abbas. (Abbott — Smith,) GUGIRD— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Khuzistan, Persia, lying at the south foot of the Koh-i-Asmarl hills about 45 miles east of Shustar. The soil of this plain is clayey, and produces wheat which is sown in December and reaped in March before the vernal equinox. When the rains are abundant, the harvest yields from ten to fifteen for one. It is inhabited by a division of the Janeki tribe. (DeBode ) GULHEK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village near Irak Ajami, Persia, near Tehran, which Eastwick calls the " country quarters" of the British mission. (Eastwick.) GULISTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 10 miles west of Mashad, built on the summit of a hill about one mile to the right of the main road. There is a picturesque fort here. The approach to it is by an avenue of mulberry trees, one mile and a quarter long, planted by a devout Mashadi for the benefit of the pilgrims. (Clerk.) GULNABAD— Lat. Lan. Elev. A village in the Isfahan district, Persia, 14 miles east of Isfahan, on the Yezd road. It is furnished with an old mud caravanserae, aud consists chieflv of ruins which date from the Afghan invasion. Near it during the Afghan 168 GUL— GUR invasion of Persia was fought the battle in which the Persian army was defeated immediately before the siege and capture of Isfahan. The water here is slightly brackish. (Smil/i.) GtJL-O-GTJLAB— Lat. Long. Elev. Two celebrated hill fortresses in Khuzistan, Persia, situated south of the plain of Zeitun and 18 miles south of Behbehan near the junction of the Ab-i-Shor and Ab-i-Sharin rivers. It is a natural stronghold capable of good defence against irregular troops on the Persian Nizam. They are in posses- sion of a chief of the Mamasenni tribe, who was taken by a Persian detach- ment under Captain Shee in 1835. (Layard — BeBode) GCLTAPEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak AjamI, Persia, on the road from Tehran to Tabrez, 63 miles north-west of Zanjan and 20 miles east of Miana. It is surrounded by gardens. (Ouseley.) GUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, 12 miles from Sabzwar, on the road to Nishapur. It is situated in a small valley through which a stream winds, the water of which is slightly brackish. (M. Route.) GT3NAWAH.— Lat. 29°33'35". Long 50°36". Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, on the coast of the Persian Gulf above Bandar Reg, 45 miles north-west of Bushahr. It contains 150 houses and pays 500 tomans revenue. The tract, lying along the coast between Bandar Dilam and Bandar Reg is called Gunawa. It is composed of a confused mass of low, grotesquely-shaped sandstone and earthy hills on parts intersected with vertical lines of gypsum cropping up. This tract was evidently for- merly thickly populated, there being many ruins upon it. It is supposed to have fallen into a desert state from the river which formerly ran through it having dried up. Though this place is much decayed, the Shekh, who is dependent on the governor of Bushahr, can bring 1,200 horsemen into the field. There is a considerable trade with other ports in horses and grain from this place. {Layard — Petty — Brucks — Monteith.) GUNDX3ZLU— A tribe of Afshars who reside in the vicinity of the village of Boleiti near Shustar in Khuzistan, Persia, during the winter months, and in summer and autumn encamp on the Ab-i-Gargar from Shustar to the junction of that canal with the main body of the river Karun at Band-i-Kir. The Gunduzla is the only one of the Afshars who returned to their own country after being transported thence to the north of Persia. Many Arab families have joined this tribe, and while the Turkish language is still understood by them, both Arabic and Persian are generally spoken. {Layard.) GtJRAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Kirmanshah, Persia. In 1834, when British officers were attached to the Persian army, Major Rawlinson was appointed to raise a regi- ment of Guran Kurds, which he succeeded in doing. The Kurds from which this regiment was formed are a frank and hospitable race, and like most mountaineers are hard and enduring ; very little is known of their faith, which appears to embody the various doctrines of Judaism, Christianity, and Shiah Mahomedanism. They are termed Ali-Ilahis, and are supposed by Major Rawlinson to be of Jewish origin. {Rawlinson.) 169 x GUR— HAF GtTRGAN-Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Persia, rising in the Jagatai and Alatagh mountains of Khorasan, Persia, and flowing in a westerly direction, after a course of about 85 miles, falls into the Caspian Sea to the north of Astrabad Bay. In its upper parts it is peopled by Goklan Turkmans, and in its lower by the Yomat tribe of the same people. Near its mouth, its banks are frequently overflowed, and they have become complete morasses in this direction ; it is supposed to have been in order to stay these floods that the Kizl Alan, or Alexander's wall, was erected on the north bank. Though there is deep water in the river itself, even boats drawing the minimum of water cannot ascend it, owing to the extreme shallowness of the Caspian Sea at its mouth. The river Gurgan measures about 60 yards from bank to bank ; its bed is deep, and in spring, when the snows of the Elburz melt, there is much water in it ; but in summer (except when occasionally swelled by the rains which the mountains attract) it is shallow. The water, though not clear, is sweet and very drinkable when its mud has been allowed to settle ; the Turkmans swear by it. Nothing can exceed the richness of the land through which this river flows. About three miles breadth on either side of it is cultivated with the finest wheat and barley. (Connolly — Vambery.) GTTRGEZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, five miles north-east of Kirman. It is a poor dismal-looking place. {Abbott.) GtJZKAM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 14 miles north-east of Mashad. It is inhabited by Taemurls, and has a population of about 1,000 souls; but as it is the first inhabited village in Persia next to the Turkmans, it is very much exposed to their raids and is very seldom spared. (Bumes.) H. HABIN— A river of_ Khorasan, Persia, near Mashad. (Che$ney> HABLA RTJD—Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 95 miles east of Tehran, on the road to Mazandaran by the GadQk pass. It is divided into two parts by the river, ■ and the castle is finely placed on a hill amid many extensive gardens. There is a_ river of this name. {Ouseley.) HAFAR— Lat. Long. Elev A canal in Khuzistan, Persia, which, leaving the Karun at the town of Sabla, pursues a course south 65° west for 11 miles to the Shatt-ul-Arab passing through Mohamrah. The HafSr is navigable to vessels of any size— both at high and low water, as far as Mohamrah. (Ghesnev—Kinneir— Jones.) J HAFRIS— Lat. Long. Elev A village in Khgrasan, Persia between Tun and Blijan. The merchants of this place trade hence to Bokhara. {Wolf.) 170 HAF— HAL HAFT ASlAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting-place in Khorasan, Persia, about 60 miles north-west of Turbat-i- Shekh Jam. (Connolly.) HAFT CHASMAH— Lat. Long. Elev. An encamping ground in Khorasan, Persia, situated in a beautiful valley covered with green sward, kept fresh by the seven springs which give it its name. It is about 30 miles north of ShahrUd. (Connolly!) HAFT LANG— Lat. Long. Elev. See Bakhtlcms. HAFTRAHAN koh— A range of hills in the Bakhtiarl mountains, Persia. (Layard.) HAJIABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 75 miles east of Ispahan. (Abbott.) HAJIABAD— A village in Fars, Persia, near the ruins of Persepolis. (Morier.) HAJIABAD A village in Kirman, Persia, 40 miles south-east of Bandar Abbas on the road to Jask. It has 120 houses and a fort. Supplies are abundant, and fresh water is procured from wells. (Felly!) HAJIABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A small fort in Khorasan, Persia, about 18 miles north-west of Ttirshez. It is celebrated for the delicious flavour of the pomegranates produced here. (Forster.) HAJI RtfSTAM— A river in the Talish district of Azarbljan, which, rising in the Bagra Koh, falls into the Caspian. It is a clear shallow stream about £0 yards broad. (Holmes.) HAJI SALIH— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in the province of Fars, Persia, on the road between Bushahr and Shlraz by the Dashtistan plain, and about 60 miles from the former. It is described as rocky and bad. (Monteith.) HAJI SYAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, south-east of Khoi and north-west of Tabriz. (Stuart.) HAJI TUL— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia, lying between Firozabad and Dasht-i-Siah. (Jones — Ballard.) HALAGAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in the Bakhtiari mountains, east of ShQstar. (Layard) HALlLA— Lat. 28° 40' 10". Long. 51° 38' 40". Elev. A peak in Pars, Persia, the south spurs of which run down for about 30 miles to the coast of the Persian Gulf, a few miles east of Bushahr, and form an extensive bay with fair anchorage. The mountain of Hallla is situated 30 miles in the interior on a sandy plain, and close to the range of hills that run parallel with the coast. Its great height makes it appear much closer than it really is ; it is about 5 to 6,000 feet high, and may be seen distinctly on a clear day at a distance of 60 miles. Snow can be obtained from it nearly all the year round ; the natives bring it down on the backs of camels or mules wrapped in blankets, and dispose of it to the richer inhabitants. The proper name of the peak is Koh-i-Bairami, and it is also known as the Koh-i-Kharmuj, from Kharmfij, the town of the Dashti tribe. 171 HAL— HAM The village of Halila" has a square fort, and is situated about two-thirds of a mile from Has Halila, which is in latitude 28° 50' 30", longitude 50° 54'. Good water is procurable here from a well near a date grove. It contains 100 houses inhabited by a tribe called PGladls, and pays revenue of 300 tomans. Some few scattered villages are to be seen in this bay, and the signs of cultivation may be perceived here and there. The anchorage is not very good, and vessels are obliged to lie • some distance off shore on account of the shallowness of the water. There is, however, good shelter from north- westers. The best anchorage is with Halila" point south 79° east true, and Ras Halila north 31" 21' true in three and a half or four fathoms at low water : soft, muddy bottom. The authority of the Shekh of Bushahr ends here and the Tangassier district commences. (Kempthorne — Bruchs — Morier — Petty .) HALI RTiD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Kirman, Persia, which rises in the Jabl-abad mountains in two branches : one in Rahbure, and the other at Hanza of Sardu, 4 stages from Sarjaz, and joins the Rud Khaneh Shor 3 miles south of Sarjaz. It is crossed on the road south to Jaruft about \\ miles from Sarjaz, and at this point it is about 25 paces across, not very deep or rapid, but still flowing in a wide bed. {Abbott!) HAMADAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Irak Ajami, Persia, 180 miles south-west of Tehran. The bazars of Hamadan are very beautiful and spacious, and always crowded: numerous caravanserais are close at hand; there are also many mosques and public baths. This town is of great commercial importance, and has a population of 50,000 souls. Its manufactures in copper are in repute. Several streams of water, descending from the mountains, and passing near the town, contain gold, which the inhabitants, particularly the Jews, collect in skins by washing, but in a clumsy manner. They earn about a shilling a day, but with a better system could no doubt gain more. Many streets in Hamadan, and certainly several parts of the town, are closed by great gates, which are open only from sunrise to sunset. This is an excellent custom, and adds much to the security of the honest portion of the inhabitants in troublous times, or for the purposes of police The vicinity of Hamadan to the mountains of Elwund is an advantage, on account of the numerous fresh and cool streams which temper th? heats of summer; but it has also a disadvantage, for the summits of this range constantly attract a dense mass of clouds, which prevents the air from cir- culating freely m the town, where the atmosphere is heavy and unhealthv Ihe plam which surrounds this town is covered with villages, the cultiva- tion good, and cheapness and abundance are the result. The population of the province of Hamadan may be divided into three distinct classe S L mi H ta °* religious, and mixed. The first consists of the tribe of Kara-e-aTo mfp of the bravest and most warlike in Persia, and a branch o tLt ofshl-Tu which was brought from Syria, m Media, by Timsrlang; this class is"' numerous than the other two. The second is composed of an infinitv of Syads and Mulas, who seem to have a marked predilection for £ pro- vince, most of the villages m which have been given to them in fief wX government. The third class, the smallest, consists of merchant? trades men, workmen, and agricultural labourers. Though quite an eieSnal 172 HAM— HAR case in Persia, the Shah has appointed a separate officer over each of these classes, fearing to put too much power in the hands of one person by entrust- ing to him all three. Persian writers attribute the foundation of Hamadan to Jamshid, a king of the Peshdadian dynasty ; it has many times been the capital of Persia. There are not any monuments or ruins in it that could be looked upon as having belonged to Ecbatana, which, as we know, was the town of Deiokes, called by the Persians Kay Kobad, and by the Jews Arphaxad : Jamshid reigned 700 years B. C. A little towards the east, and out of the town, is a small eminence, now called Musella, said by various authors to have been the spot on which stood the palace of the Median kings. In the centre of Hamadan is the tomb of Ah Ben Sina, and not far from it are those of Esther and Mordecai, which are held in great veneration by the Jews of this town, and kept in a perfect state of repair. On the dome over these tombs is an inscription, of which the following is a translation : — " On Thursday, the 15th of the month of Adar, in the year of the creation of the world 4474, -the building of this temple over the tombs of Mordecai and Esther was finished by the hands of the two benevolent brothers, Elias and Samuel, sons of the late Ismael Radian." The principal manufacture of Hamadan is a particular sort of felt carpet, called " namad," highly esteemed among the Persians. It is also famous for its leather, of which the inhabitants cure large quantities for the cover- ings of trunks, saddles, bindings of tents, &c. The produce of the district consists chiefly of raisins and treacle of grapes. Caravans go every month to Sulimania from Hamadan, and occasionally to Panj win. (Kinneir — Fraser — Ferrier — MonteitA — Morier — Rich .) HANDEMENI— Lat. Long. Elev. A sub-division of the Pusht-i-Koh division of the Feilli Lurs, who number about 250 families, and reside in the mountains to the north-west of Kebr Koh in Luristan, and sometimes near Khoramabad in the summer, and on the plains at the foot of these mountains in winter. (Layard.) HAOZ-I-S0LTAN— Lat. _ Long. Elev. A halting place in Irak Ajami, Persia, 40 miles south of Tehran, and 34 miles north of Kum. There is a caravanserai here, and a reservoir of water so deep and spacious that the water collected in it during the winter supplies amply all caravans and occasional travellers of the subsequent summer. Between this place and the next stage, Pul-i-Dalak, is a large swamp, which is always difficult of passage, and sometimes impracticable and dangerous . (Ouseley.) HAOZ-KOL-MABA— Lat. Long. Elev. A covered well with good water on the road from Herat to Shahrud in Khorasan, Persia, by Khaffand Turshez, 112 miles north-west of the latter place. (Clerk.) HARIWAL DAG-H— A mountain lying to the west of Dilman in Azarbijan, Persia. It may be the same as the mount Akronal of Monteitb's maps. (Shiel.) HARAZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Mazandaran, Persia, which rises in the north slopes of the Demavand mountain, and falls into the Caspian after a north course of perhaps 100 miles. In the upper part of its course it is a mountain torrent, and is here joined by the rapid stream called the Lax from the north-west. 173 HAR— HAS thence it flows in a deep and narrow channel of rock past the town of Ask ; where it is crossed by a wooden bridge. Between Ask and Waneh it is crossed in six places by wooden bridges, and the river then runs in a deep narrow channel between walls of perpendicular rock to the caves of Karti ; thence to Paras it is crossed in two places by wooden bridges. At about 18 miles from Paras, it enters a valley 400 yards broad and then enters the plains. At Amol it is very broad, but not in the dry season more than two feet in depth, but in the floods it is a much more considerable stream, being very full and rapid. It is crossed at this point by a bridge of twelve arches. {Todd.) HARI RUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river in Mazandaran, Persia, 'which rises in the northern slopes of the Elburz mountains, and falls into the Caspian at about 10 miles west of Aliabad. It is described as a fine copious stream (in May), and is said to be the best water in Mazandaran. The quantity of detritus brought down by this river from the mountains has formed, at its mouth, a point which stretches far into the sea. {Fraser.) HARUNABAD— Lat. 34°06' 36". Long. Elev. A village in Kirmanshah, Persia, 36 miles south-west of Kirmanshah and 20 miles from Kirind. It is situated nearly at the rise of one of the sources of the river Kerkah; its population inhabit it only in the summer, in the winter they resort to the plain to escape the intense cold. About 60 houses and a caravanseraeshah constitute the village. The district occupied by the Kalhur tribe extends as far north as this place. The town is said to have been built by Harun-al-Raschid, but now there is only a village built on its ruins. The Kurds call this place Haruniyeh. ( Ferrier — Jones — Taylor — Fraser.) HARUNIS— A tribe who are said to reside near Tun in Khorasan, Persia. They are of Arab origin, having been settled here by Shah Abbas. They retain but little of the appearance and manners of their ancestors. HASAMABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the Ab-i-Gargar, five miles below Shustar. At this place boats employed in the trade between Shustar, Ahwaz, and Mohamrah usually disembark their cargoes, further ascent being prevented, the Mahlbazan dam just above the village. {Layard.) HASANABAD— A division of Persian Kurdistan. It is governed by a person appointed by the Vali of Kurdistan. [Rich.) HASANABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 30 miles from Kum. {Abbott.) HASANABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 11 miles east of Kasvin. The soil around it is good, and the land in a state of excellent cultivation. {Ouseley.) HASANABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 9 miles west of Nishapfir, on the right of the road from Sabzawar. It has some cultivation around it. {Clerk.) HASANABAD — Lat. Long. Elev A village in the province of Persian Kurdistan, 4 miles from Sehna on the road to Kirmanshah. {Jones.) 174 HAS— HAZ HASSAWAR— Lat. Long-. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, 10 miles north of Ardib!l. (Fraser.) HASSEMANIA— Lat. Long. _ Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the river Karun, a few miles below Slmstar. (Chesney.) HASHTAD TtJN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Rinnan, Persia, 30 miles south-east of Khubbes, situated under some rocks £ miles from the road to Bam. {Abbott.) HASHT RCD— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Azarbijan, Persia, west of Miana, so called from its abundance of water. It is one of the finest in the province, rich in corn, and well peopled, villages being situated in most parts of it, and the slopes of the hills in general being covered with cultivation. Seraskand is the chief place. (Morier.) HAWIZA— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khuzistan, Persia, on the right bank of the river Kerkah, 65 miles south-west of Shustar, and 60 miles north of Basra. It is the chief place of the Vali of Arabistan, whose sway formerly extended to all the Arabs in this country. It was formerly a well populated place, but since the river deserted it, most of the inhabitants have left, and there are now perhaps not more than 500 houses in the place. The inhabitants are chiefly Arabs. It is situated in a district sufficiently fertile to supply four-fifths of the corn used in the markets of Basra. A canal, called the Shatt-al-Khud, connects the Kerkah river with the Tigris, by which a boat may pass from the latter to the former in five or six hours. (Kinneir — Layard—Rich.) HAZARAMIN— A village in Khorasan, Persia, 16 miles east of Tehran. It is inhabited principally by Kurds. (Wolff.) HAZARAS— A tribe of Persia who inhabit the country to the east of the Taemuiis of Khaff, between it and the great range from Khairabad to Rosanak. They are a turbulent but not very numerous tribe, who live both in tents and houses, and who render allegiance to the Persians and Afghans, as these powers are able to enforce it. They possess the three small towns of Mahmtidabad, Turbat-i-Shekh Jam, and Kahrez, each perhaps consisting of 200 houses; and they cultivate grain along the base of the small, or, as it may be named (since it separates the two Turbats), the Turbat range. This tribe are violent professors of the Suni creed, and their features show them to be descended from the Tartars ; these and their thievish sympathies have connected them closely with the Turkmans, to whom they sell those whom they have the fortune to kidnap. In order to have such convenient friends at hand, they allow them the range of their country, and subse- quently it is depopulated to the very neighbourhood of Herat. (Connolly.') HAZAR CHCSC— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Mazandaran, Persia, between the villages of Merzinabad and Inen. It is described as very fatiguing. (Shiel.) HAZAR DARA— The name given to the Bakhtiari range in Persia to the east of Behbahan. (Chesney.) 175 HAZ— HIN HAZAR JARIB— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Persia, half in Khorasan and half in Mazandaran, which is passed through on the road from Astarabad to Damghan. The land yields five fold without manuring. The greatest part of it is watered by rain only. (Morier.) HEDIREH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village hamlet in Khorasan, Persia, 30 miles south-east of Mashad on the Herat road. There is a caravanserae here, and the huts of a few shepherds around. (Ferrier.) HEHVI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Talish district of Azarbijan, Persia, on the coast of the Caspian and left bank of the Hehvi Rud, 28 miles south of Astara. It is situated about one mile from the sea, and its houses are scattered throughout the forest. The inhabitants cultivate rice, keep bees, and make a pretty kind of matting of reeds. The common fruits are figs, apples, pears, and grapes. {Holmes.) HERAT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, west of Kirman. It is a fine village, and the country for some distance is covered with gardens and cornfields and well supplied with good water. (Gibbons.) HERON— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Azarbijan, Persia, the capital of the district of Upper Khal-khal, 60 miles south of Ardabil and 50 miles east of Miana. Fraser calls it Herow. (Monteith.) HIMATABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Yezd district, Persia, about 12 miles north-west of Yezd on the right of the road from Ispahan. It has a caravanserae. (Abbott.) HINDABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, 11 miles south of Tiirbat Haedari, situated in a barren undulating plain, but with some cultivation round it. It has a small fort. (Forbes — Clerk.) HINDIAN— A town in Khuzistan, Persia, on the Tab river, 35 miles from its mouth. The town is in ruins. It might at one time have held from three to four thousand inhabitants, but at present there are not more than 400 or 500. It is situated on both sides of the river — that on the right bank belonging to the Shekh of the Chab Arabs, while that on the left is under the governor of Behbahan. The river is here about 100 yards wide, with banks 15 or 18 feet high. The river is navigable for boats of small burthen from the sea to this place, and " buggalows" come here from Koweit and Bushahr. Ophthalmia is said to be the prevailing disease at this place. Colonel Pelly gives the following information of the trade of Hindian : — " The imports are about 1,000 ' karehs' of dates from Basra, each kareh pay- ing five kerans duty, and piece-goods to the value of 20,000 kerans. .. " The exports are mainly gram to the value of about 200,000 kerans, com- ing down from Behbahan and Hormaz, and paying a duty of half keran per Hashem maund ; 100,000 kerans worth of wool from the upper country, 10,000 kerans of rogan, and some 10,000 sheep paying half keran each duty. • For an account of the Hindian river, vide Tab." ( Felly— Layard—Colville— Whiteloch — BrucJcs.) 176 HIR— HUS HlR— A village in Khamseh district, Persia, about 60 miles west- north-west of Kasvln. There are some coal mines situated about 1^ miles from the village, at an elevation of 1,000 feet above the plain. The rocks where the mines are have a black tinge, and ironstone is abundant, and the hills seem to consist of layers of sandstone, ironstone, and coals. The coal is got by digging circular wells about 5 feet in diameter and 30 feet deep. The only stratum of coal visible seems to be about a foot thick at 6 feet from the surface and dipping at an angle of 80°. It produces no large blocks, and seems light and brittle, and- has a glittering appearance with occasional red streaks. Its price is one tomam per kharbar, or 30 per ton. These mines may be of some importance one day. (Eastwick.) HIS . R— Lat. Long. Elev. A collection of six or seven villages in the province of Fars, Persia, 6 miles south-east of Bandar Dilam on the road to Bushahr. There is good water here from wells. It is in the Lehrul sub-division of the district of Behbahan. (Monteith — Layard.) HISAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on a branch of the Jagatu river, and 150 miles south of Tabrez. It was once a considerable place, but now only consists of a few families, who live within the ruinous enclosure of the fort. It is inhabited by the Turkl tribe of Afshars. (Rawlinson.) HISAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khamseh district, Persia, about 12 miles west of Kasvln. It is described as a poor village. (Eastwick.) HISAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 30 miles from Hamadan and 168 miles from Ispahan on the road to Kirmanshah, from which it is 85 miles distant. Supplies are procurable here, and water is obtained from a small stream. (Jones.) HISAR AMIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, situated 12 miles east of Tehran at the foot of the mountains. It has 100 houses and a hunting lodge of the Shahs. (Eastwick.) HISHLLJSr— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Azarbijan, Persia, on the left bank of the Kizl Ozan river below Miana. It is situated on a rising ground near the river, and is very well calculated for a military post to defend the passage of the difficult defile of the Kafilan Koh. It contains about 300 houses, and the inhabitants carry on a considerable trade with Ghilan, to which province they carry cotton and grain, and have 200 pack horses which they hire to the merchants. (Monteith.) HOBETD— Lat. Long. Elev. A division of Persian Kurdistan, which is passed through on the direct road from Sehna to Tabrez. (Rich.) HORESTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the right bank of the Kurdistan river about 4 miles from Behbahan. (DeBode.) H0RIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Kirmanshah, Persia, 7 miles north of Sheikh an. (Rawlinson.) HCSENABaD— Lat. Long. ^ le . v -_ A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the left bank of the Kurdistan river, about 4 miles from Behbahan. (Be Bode.) 177 y HUS— ILI HUSEN NCN— Lat. Long. Elev. _ A walled village in Khorasan, Persia, 35 miles south-east of Semnun on the road from Tabas. It contains 400 houses inhabited by Persians, [terrier.) HUSH AN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 18 miles west of Baft and 70 miles south-west of Kirman. (Gibbons.) HYAT DAUD— Lat. Long. Jilev. A village in Bushahr district, Pars, Persia, situated 56 miles from Busnanr. It contains 100 houses and pays a revenue of 3,000 tomans. (Felly.) I. IDBJS— See Chab Arabs. IDBISIGAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village and fort in Khuzistan, Persia, on left bank of the Karun river, inhabited by the Idrls tribe. It is a place of no trade or importance, and is more a stronghold than an abiding place. The banks of the river in its vicinity are well calculated for wood-cutting. (Selby — Layard.) A place in Fars, Persia, situated 12 miles from Neyriz. (Abbott?) ILIYATS— The name given in Persia to designate those tribes who lead a wandering life and who subsist by their flocks. " The Hiyats are not originally Persians, but may be compared to foreign shoots grafted on the main stalk. The original Persian is to be found in the cities and in the old established towns and districts of the provinces. The accretion of new population flowed in both from the east and from the west. Until the conquest of Persia by the Saracens, her people might be said to be unmixed ; they having conquered the country spread them- selves even to Balkh, Bokhara, and Merv, were incorporated with the Persian nation, and, it is said, first insulated it with roving propensities. The next tribe of wanderers was brought from the east in 1234 with Jangez Khan, which was followed by Timur, who crossed and re-crossed Persia so frequently that many of his hordes were left in Turkey. Such in general terms may be called the origin of the Ihyats, but each tribe has its own particular history, recording whence it came and by whom it was introduced into Persia. Many have become inhabitants of cities and villages, therefore the tribes are classed into what are called Shahr-nishin, or dwellers in cities, or Sahra-nishln, or dwellers in the field. A few only have adhered to their original modes of life, and abide all the year round in tents, in the winter keeping to the plains, and in the summer seeking the pasturage of the mountains. In their own estimation they look upon the Shahr-ni- shlns as degenerate, applauding the hardihood and simplicity of manners of those who have no other dwelling place than the tent, and reviling those who recur to the luxuries of a house and the protection of a city. 178 ILI " The principal tribes are as follows : — 1, Kajar ; 2, Afshar ; 8, Arab ; 4, Lak; 5, Feili; 6, Bayat; 7, Kurd; 8, Kurd Bucheh ; 9, Elmak, 10, Hazara ; 11, Biloch; 12, Bajiban; 13, Khodabandehlu ; 14, Bakhti- ari; 15, Shekagi; 16, Shah-Sevan; 17, Mama Senni. It does not appear that any of the tribes have written records, and it must be confessed that the information here acquired concerning 1 their numbers, must be held as very uncertain. The traditions of the tribes are oral, and whenever they pretend to great antiquity, they immediately ascend to the fabulous ages of their historians, where all is darkness, and they do not possess any popular ballads, which can throw light upon their history. Each tribe has a patois of its own, bearing more or less affinity to the Pessian, but whatever books they possess are in the Persian language. " The different tribes are now so much spread throughout the provinces, that they have almost lost that union which could render them formidable. It is evidently the policy of the government to disperse them, and it does so, keeping their chiefs as hostages about the person of the king. Great eftorts have been made to disperse the Arab tribes, but ineffectually ; con- sequently their chiefs are feared, and precautions taken to secure proper hostages for their good behaviour. " Such of the tribes as have become inhabitants of cities are subject to the laws and regulations which rule the community they have adopted : generally speaking they are employed as servants, attached to their Khans either in a military or domestic capacity. " The Sahra-nishins, although taxed in various ways and made to contri- bute to the military exigencies of the state, are comparatively less molested than the other inhabitants. Their wealth consists principally in cattle, which yields them a considerable revenue, and which they prefer to that produced by the cultivation of the soil. They breed camels and horses for sale, and their sleep yield milk, which is made into raughan (liquid butter) and sold throughout the country. The peculiar privileges of the Iliyats consist in liberty to range over districts from which no one can dispossess them. They ascend in the summer to cold regions called Yailak, where they find pasture, and in the winter keep to their Kishlak, tracts which enjoy a warmer climate. These Yailaks and Kishlaks are defined to each tribe by the government, and whenever their limits are encroached upon by unprivileged tribes, violent strifes and battles ensue. " The existence of these migratory tribes being advantageous to the gov- ernment, they are little oppressed. They are taxed at certain established rates upon each head of cattle, and are called upon to serve in the king's armies. They pay at the rate of five piastres for each camel, one piastre for each cow, the same for mares, one Abbasi or quarter-piastre for a sheep. When they cultivate the ground, they are fined according to the rates exacted from the other Rayahs. Should they not be cultivators, each ten khaneh or houses provide one horseman, mounted and armed; and each five, one footman or tufenkchi. These receive forage from the Shah. The horseman's pay is about eight tomans annually, for which he serves six months in the field, the other six he remains at home. He is paid twice in the year, half and half in advance, and during the time he is in actual service receives a daily allowance of one man barley for his horse and straw in proportion. The horsemen are obliged to attend the muster and the review, which the king makes after the Nan-B,tiz of all 179 1LI his troops, properly mounted and equipped, or they are severely punished. The tufenkchi, or foot soldier, gets seven tomans per annum, and half the year remains at home. The wages are paid into the hands of the Khan of the tribe who then delivers over the money to the subaltern officers, called Sultans and Bin-bashis, who pay the soldiers. This promotes pecu- lation ; the Khan subtracting his share, the Mirza, or scribe his, and the subalterns theirs, while the poor soldier deems himself very lucky if he gets one-half of that which is his due. Aga Mahamad Shah, the eunuch- king, used to pay the troops with his own hand. The great advantage of being military servants is protection to their families, the governors of villages and other men in office not daring to molest them under such circumstances. " The Iliyats are not compelled to bestow their labor upon public works like the other Rayahs ; they keep exclusively to their tents and tend their cattle. The taxes they pay are levied by their chiefs, who account with the government. Those who are inclined to elude taxation frequently do so by secreting their cattle in the mountains. " In their different small communities, they are governed by Rlsh-sufeds (literally white-beard) or elders, who have no other emblem of power or superiority to show than a white beard. Old age is extremely respected by them, and generally by all Persians, and is indulged with great liberties. A Rish-sufed, a poor miserable old man, will not fail whenever his tribe is oppressed, to make a journey purposely to remonstrate with the governor of the province, and abuse him to his face ; and so careful are the governors not to offend these influential persons, that they bear their reproof with moderation, and are fain to be civil. Their disputes are decided by their Rish-sufedsj even the ordinances of their hakims or governors are referred to them. In all cases of marriage the elder is first consulted, and his consent procured as a preliminary. The tribes seldom intermarry. The elders recommend families whose daughters may be selected for wives ; but, whenever one tribe refuses to give their daughters in marriage to another, it is esteemed an affront and a motive for strife. " The Persian government is ever jealous of the migration of these tribes and they cannot remove from one province to another without first having obtained the Shah's permission. In times of trouble, such as the death of the king, frequently, if they be strong enough to encounter opposition, they pass from their old haunts to better places. " We have said before that the possessions of the Iliyats consist of cattle. These are camels, horses, mares, cows, oxen, mules, asses, sheep and goats, besides a fine race of dogs. Their pastures, although open to the Shah the princes, and the other great men of the country, may also be said to be their property, inasmuch as they have liberty to range over them unless there has been issued a ' kuruk/ or prohibition. " From the pastures which are appropriated to the use of the Shah and the princes, such as Sultaniah, Ojan, &c, they are totally excluded, unless they receive permission, for which they pay a certain quantity of the produce of their flocks. For instance, in 1815 the Shah did not go to Sultaniya, and he allowed the Iliyats to feed their cattle there, provided they furnished him with. 1,000 mam ot rauglan, or preserved butter "Their property, if it may be so called, consists in "tents, carpets, bedding, cooking utensils, large cauldrons in which they boil the raughan, or pre- 180 ILI served butter, skins to shake the butter and sour milk in, and all the rude furniture of shepherds. Much of their furniture consists of camel pack- saddles, ornamented bridles for the chief camel, besides other ornaments in beads, &c. Among the Kurdish tribes the women ride in ' kajawehs/ which are cage-like panniers placed on each side of the camel, each large enough to contain a woman. Then there are saddles for horses and ' palans' for mules, and a sort of padded cushion for the back of their tents. " An Iliyat of middling fortune possesses about a hundred sheep, three or four camels, three or four mares, ten asses, &c, which may yield him a revenue of forty to fifty tomans. A man who possesses a thousand sheep, thirty camels, twenty mares, &c, is reckoned a rich man. Each sheep may be valued at two piastres, a camel at ten, a mare at eight, and an ass at three. Such a property would yield a revenue of four hundred tomans. This is derived from the wool and milk of sheep, the wool and hire of the camels, the colts from the mares and asses ; the female camel brings forth once every two years, the mare every year, and the sheep once. In some parts of Persia, particularly among the Kurds who enjoy the finest pasturage, the ewes produce twice a year. There are a few rich Persians, whose possessions and modes of life assimilate to those of the patriarchs of old. Such was Isa Khan, of Turbat, who was calculated to possess 160,000 sheep, 20,000 camels, 6,000 mares, and other cattle in proportion. Ahmad Khan, of Maraghah, was also an immensely rich farmer. The Vail of Sehnah, and several others, might also be classed among those leading patriarchal lives. " The patrimony of an Iliyat is divided among his children, according to the Musalman's law : two-thirds to the sons, and one-third to the daughters, the latter taking the clothes and valuables belonging to the mother. " The value of an Iliyat tent is about six to seven tomans. It is made of goats' hair, consisting of cloths about a foot and a quarter in width wove by the women. All the members of a family — men, women, and children — are usually employed spinning goats' hair, which is either in actual use in the loom or laid by for sale. " They weave the cloth in a portable loom, which they fix in the rudest manner possible, but which answers all the purposes for which it is intended. This cloth is of strong texture, impervious to rain, and will last twenty years. The covering of one of the tents is generally about forty feet in length and twenty in breadth, and is erected upon a range of poles, the back and sides being fitted up with reeds made into walls, and is fastened to the ground with pegs. The tents are extemely rude, and do not show any appearance of attention to comfort. In Azarbijan, and the more northern and consequently rainy countries, they have another sort of tent which has been borrowed from the Turkmans. This consists of ribs united and, when open, is like a cage on which thick felts are thrown, and it is entered by a narrow door : it is called ' alajeh; ' the goats hair tents are called ' kara chader/ or black tent. " The encampments of the Iliyats are generally of about twenty to thirty tents together, which they pitch mostly without any great attention to regularity. They are also to be seen in a circle as well as in line, and appear conspicuous on a light soil owing to their black colour ; on a dark soil they are scarcely perceptible, particularly unde the shadow of a mountain. The tents are close to each other, but the different encampments may be a mile or two asunder, according to the convenience of grass and water. 181 ILI " The Iliyats feed principally on the produce of their flocks, and eat sour milk, cheese, dough or butter-milk, and much raughan or preserved butter. Their annual expenses are much less than those of the inhabitants of cities ; for, excepting their clothes, copper utensils, pack-saddles, and ornamental luxuries, they supply all their own necessities. Their simple manner of living (not to mention their being out of the way of extortion) may be calculated at one hundred per cent, cheaper than in the town. They make their own tents or dwelling places, weave their own carpets and hammocks or felts, cut their own wood and burn their own charcoal ; they kill their own meat, make their cheese and butter, and their lives are far more free from disease and local complaints. Their dress does not differ from that of other Persians, except in its extreme meanness. A man rich in cattle will appear with a coat to his back that scarcely holds together, and in such indifferent dresses, but with no other covering over their heads than their tents, their women and children will brave all the rigour of winter. The favorite wife or child enjoys whatever luxury of dress belongs to the tribe, consisting of gold bracelets, necklaces, silver and gold ornaments for the hair ; frequently a handkerchief is edged with perforated silver coin, and baudeans of the same are tied about the head and neck. It is not uncom- mon to meet with ancient medals suspended about the neck ^,nd heads of the Iliyat women and children. " The time of the Iliyats' rest is the winter, when his flocks are not productive and require no other care than being led to pasture! The men then help the women to weave carpets and tent cloths or spin goats' hair. At the approach of spring all is then full of activity : the ewes bring forth, then the lambs are tended, then shearing comes on, the flocks require constant milking, and the numerous uses to which the milk is consigned, that is butter, dough and raughan, require much work which the men perform. The women, too, are very labourious; they pitch and unpitch encampments when on a march, load and unload the beasts of burden, attend the children and the young animals ; they sit down in companies to spni, and help to churn and make sour milk. The drudgery is for the women ; the business of protection, purchase and sale, and all the greater interests of the community for the males. "The Iliyats break up their winter encampments one month after the festival of the Nao-Roz, *. e., one month after the sun has entered the sign Aries, and travel by easy journeys of two to three miles each day to what they call the ' Sar-hadd/ or the boundary between the cold and hot region; there they stay for about a month and then travel on again to their Yallak where they encamp during the heat of summer, and where they remain* about seventy days; they then return to the ' Ser-hadd/ where they remain another month, and at length reach their old haunts in the Kishlak for the winter Many direct their motions by the rising of the stars, and many by the appearance of the snowy mountains. They are unmolested in their passage, and perhaps may give a sheep or so to the lords of the villages near which they travel. The ground upon which they encamp is im- proved by their presence since it is strengthened by the manure they leave. # Their mode of calculating property is by sheep ; they pay their shepherds in sheep. In their own deahngs, in their purchase of oxen, &c, they pay in sheep A man killing one of their dogs is liable to be fined four sheep. Among the villages, too, m their smaller dealings, the Persian Rayah deals 182 ILI— IMA with his neigbour not in money, but in kind, com, wool, straw, &c. Three months after the Nao-Roz, they separate the rams from the ewes and feed them till they are ' mast/ At the beginning of the sign Mlrzan, or Libra, they turn them into the flock, by which the ewes bear at about the Nao-Roz, and some of the Iliyats celebrate this event by music, songs, and merry-making. Shearing takes place twice in the year ; the first time after the Nao-Roz, about the 20th of May ; and the second at the Mlrzan. They give off their wool and other produce of their flocks, which is called by the general name of 'kashf, to the poor in alms. At the time of the new lambs they take portions of their milk, which they make into curds, cream, kaimak and fresh cheese, and send it to their friends as a compli- mentary gift marking the return of the season. A shepherd has the care of three hundred sheep, and is paid in kind both in wool and lambs. " From what has been said, it is evident that the Iliyats, as raw materials for the formation of troops, must be of considerable consequence to the state of which they are the subjects. They are soldiers by nature, as far as the mere habit of the man goes, but, it must be added, they are difficult of discipline, owing to their clan-like propensities. Those on the frontier frequently give rise to feuds and war. One of the principal objects of the war carried on by the Persians against Russia was to induce the Iliyats of Karabagh, Sheki, &c, to return to their allegi- ance to the Shah. On the frontiers, both of Turkey and Russia, the same scenes of clandestine migration take -place as those described by Herodotus of the Scythian nomads. Cyaxares seemed to be as well aware of their worth as Abbas Mirza was, for he received those who fled with great kind- ness and showed them much favor. One of the great sources of bickering between the Turks and Persians are the Kurds on the frontier, who migrate from the one state to the other as best suits their, humour or interests. Good legislation would no doubt soon turn them into peaceable and indus- trious communities ; but as the eastern governments are at present consti- tuted, the vast regions inhabited by these wanderers must continue mere tracts of waste, adapted solely to the uses of armed shepherds and lawless freebooters. (Morier.) IL KHAMSEH— Lat. Long. Elev. The name of a division of the nomadic tribes of Fars, Persia. It consists of five tribes, each under its own Khet Khoda, viz., the II Arab with 6,000 households. (2) The Abol Verdeh : these are the chiefs of the whole tribes of Khamseh. At one time they had great influence, but now they are engaged in trade, and most of them are in the Shah's regiments. About 500 of this tribe may only be seen now. (3) Nafar : these are a quiet and poor tribe. (4) Beharlu : this is a very mischievous set of robbers, who by internal feuds have almost put an end to themselves, and now all that remains of them are a few robbers, who wander about plundering every one that comes in their way. (5) EinalQ : these are all ryots, partly wandering about the country and partly settled at Farsa, Chardercluk, and Daderyat. They were formerly an independent tribe, but for the last 20 years they have been attached to the II Khani and pay an annual tribute. The Shah of Persia has one regiment raised out of these tribes. (Petty.) IMAM ALI HTTSEN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the bank of the KartJn river, about 35 miles above Mohamrah. 183 IMA— IRA IMAM ZADA ISHMAEL— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass and defile in the province of Fars, Persia, 38 miles from Persepolis, leading into the plain of tJjan. It is about seven miles in length, and is said to have an easy ascent. (Kinnier.) INDARABIA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the island of Kishm, Persian Gulf, 2 miles from Laft. It has a fort and belongs to the Imam of Maskat. (Brucks.) INDARAB— Lat. 26°41'49". Long. 53°3ri8". Elev. An island in the Persian Gulf off the coast of Laristan. It is 4 miles long and about 10 miles in circumference, low, level and narrow, and separated from the mainland by a strait 4 miles broad, the navigation of which is very dangerous. Vessels are supplied here with fresh water. There is a small , town on the north side, where a vessel may get supplied with goats, sheep, and some vegetables. The island is almost uncultivated ; the natives merely grow corn and vegetables for their own consumption. The harbour is safe and commodious, and a vessel is well sheltered in it from a north-west wind ; the water is deep close to the land, with 6£ fathoms and a soft mud bottom. It has about 100 inhabitants of the ' Abadalee J tribe, and is subject to Cheria. The strait of Indarab is formed by the island and the mainland. It has regular soundings all over until you approach the reef of Ras-ul-Cheru, when it suddenly shoals from 17 to 10, 5 and 4 fathoms, under which depth a vessel should not go. There is no danger outside 5 fathoms towards the island, or 4 fathoms on the spit, the channel between these having from 22 to 27 fathoms. The narrowest part is between the island and Cheru reef, being there only one mile wide. A course one-third over from the island in passing Rasrd-Cheru will be found the best. (Brucks.) INS HA— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of the Kurdistan district of Khorasan, Persia., which rises in the vicinity of the peak of Qtirgud and falls into the Atrak. (Fraser ) IRAK AJAMI— A province of Persia situated between Lat. 30° 35' to 37° 30' and Lone 47° 15' to 53° 12/ ^" It is bounded north by the Kizl Ozan river and the Elburz mountains, east by Khorasan and the great salt desert, south by Fars and Khuzistan, and west by Turkey. Its greatest length from the Kizl Ozan river, south-east to a point north of Basht in Fars, is not under 520 miles, and its breadth from Khani- kin, east to Sheragin on the borders of the desert, not less than 450 miles. It is divided into five great districts, and each of these have numerous sub-divisions. These first are :— 1, Isfahan; 2, Tehran; 3, Nain; 4, Mul- layer ; 5, Kirmanshah ; 6 Khemseh. The appearance of this province is almost everywhere the same being entirely mountainous with valleys of an indefinite length, but seldom exceed we 10 or 15 miles in breadth. The mountains, which are barren and devoid ot timber, run almost invariably from west to east, and either gradually sink into the desert, or throw branches into the provinces of Kirman ana Khorasan. The valleys are for the most part uncultivated, except near the villages, but cannot be called barren for the land in general is good The mountain-system of Irak consists, 1°, of the Elburz range which bounds it on the north, and connects the mountain-system of Persia with 184 IRA that of the Hindu Kush and the Himalayas; 2nd, of the Elvand and Kohrud range, which runs through the centre of the province ; 3rd, of a spur from the main range of Ardelan, which runs from south-west to north- east across the north-west of the province, and connects the Elburz system with that of Azarbljanj 4th, of the Bakhtiari mountains, which are an offshoot of the Elvand range. The province is essentially mountainous, and, therefore, there are no large vallies or plains, yet between the different ranges are to be found plains of small extent. The rivers of Irak are the Kizl Ozan, which it enjoys in common with Azarbijan, the Jarud, Hablamd, Gonsir, Zainderud; and in Kirmanshah and the Bakhtiari mountains are the sources of several important streams, viz., Diala, Kerkah, and the KarQn. The only lake I know of in the province is that in which the Zainderud discharges its waters, but this, I believe, may more rightly be termed a marsh. The Daria Kablr, met with between Pul-i-Dalak and Kinaragird, is a salt marsh, which stretches 150 miles from the east to west, and has a breadth in some places of 35 miles. The climate of Irak is very various ; in the vicinity of Ispahan it is one of the most temperate, equable, and delightful in the world. Excepting for a few weeks of the year, the sky of this favoured region is unclouded and serene. The rains are never heavy, and the snow seldom lies long on the ground. The air is so pure and dry that the brightest polished metal may be exposed to it without being corroded by rust. The regularity of the seasons in this part of Persia appears quite extraordinary to a person accustomed to a more uncertain and variable climate, for they perceptibly change almost to the hour. The northern portion of Irak do not enjoy so favorable a climate as Ispahan. The country about Hamadan is very mountainous and the winter severe, while the cities of Kashan and Ki3m, which are situated on the verge of deserts, are exposed to almost as oppres- sive heat in summer as the countries on the shores of the Persian Gulf. Tehran is liable to great vicissitudes of climate and is not deemed salubrious. Of the mineral productions of Irak I have almost no information. Coal is, I believe, found at various places in the Elburz mountains, and the province has many salt encrusted plains and marshes. A list of the tribes in the Tehran and Khamseh district of Irak will be found under these titles. The tribes who inhabit the other portions of the province, viz., Hamadan, Mullayer, Toosirkan, and Ferahan, are given by Shiel as follows: — 1, Karagazhi, 4,000 houses, Turks; £, Zehravand, Kiasavand, Jalilavand, and Paeravand, all Leks and number 1,500 tents ; 3, Zend, 100 tents, Lek ; 4, Khellij, a large tribe of Turks. The principal towns of Irak are Ispahan, Tehran, Natanz, Kashan, Kum, Kasin, Zanjan, Sehna, Hamadan, Kirmanshah, Khoramabad, Khonsar, &c. The agricultural produce of Irak consists of cotton, rice, grain of all sorts, opium, fruits, manna, &c. The manufactures consist of silk goods, velvets, chintzes, cotton cloths, gold and silver brocades, glass-ware, paper, carpets, " namads/^ cutlery, arms, bows and arrows, gold pnd silver " kahuns," ornamented pen-cases, sugar, sweatmeats, shoes, stockings, carpentry, copper utensils, and earthen- ware ditto. The inhabitants of Irak are, I believe, almost entirely of the Shiah per- suasion of the Mahamadan faith. 185 z IRA The revenue of Irak is as follows : — Disteict of Isfahan. Tomams. Dinars. Ipsahan and its sab-divisions ... 69,800 Kerwnn 4,108 Kahanah 940 Faridun ... 1,102 8,000 Charmahl 2,216 2,600 Shamirfin 1,785 7,500 Kumesha and Isfarjan 2,462 Ardistan .. i 2,000 Khidmatana at 5 per cent. 1,146 5,000 Abrkoh *•■ ... 1,500 Earn 3,099 2,000 Kashan ... ... 32,406 2,500 Total ... 1,19,567 5,600 District of Tehran. Tehrii n ... 17,508 Kazvin ... 25,020 Kullumun 8,655 4,928 FarahSn ... ... 15,187 1,578 Taliikan ... 2,927 5,000 Burrah ... 1,186 2,612 Sawah 1,293 7,900 Sarband ... 1,415 3,300 Baluks of K5m ... 4,785 272 Shahriar 28 3,750 Wafesh Tnfiesh Zarand Taran Total 1,680 447 781 2,063 8,500 5,500 1,400 ... 82,979 4,740 District of Nain. Nain Ardelan Jablak 1,050 3,866 1,000 Kuwar 4,434 3,300 Kbamseh 211 250 Khasfan and Afshar 14,200 348 Demavand 8,350 Firozkoh 255 540 Suj Bolak Burujard Puorarud ... 1,050 2,823 ... 16,911 500 6,800 Pooerserkan 917 3,000 Total 1,511 8,150 ... 47,579 1,890 District of Mullayer. Mullayer Kumerah — ... 15,776 Gulpaegan Gagrag ■ •• ... 8,517 ... 2,075 7,000 Behavand 1,871 Maravin ... 6,081 5,730 Yezd 691 8,700 ... ... 24,328 8,000 Total ... 59,341 9,430 186 IRA— ISF DlSTBIOT OF KlEMAMSHAH. Kirmanshah Luristan Haviza Shastar Harve Khudabandalu Total 14,836 10,000 2,800 8,293 8,000 700 336 5,625 38,691 3,625 I give the above for what it may be worth, but I would remark that it seems to me of little use, as the districts seem to be mixed up in a very confused manner. Colonel Passmore, Commanding the British Detachment in Persia, in a letter, dated 16th April 1836, to the Ambassador, gives the following in- formation of the army of Irak : — The Irak Infantry is composed of eleven regiments of 1,000 men each, viz., 1, Kurga Regiment ; 2, Farahan ; 3, Sariband and Nahavand ; 4, Gul- paegSn and Mahalat ; 5, Kalay Sava ; 6, Kalajkum ; 7, Bujchalu ; 8, Fari- dun and Char Mahl; 9, Ispahan; 10, Mullayer; 11, Kamara and Chaplak. These regiments are a militia raised in the following manner : — A district is ordered to furnish a corps, and the Governor details the number of men to be given by each village. The proprietor of estates are appointed to command the companies formed of their own tenants or retainers, and the Naibs are usually their sons or near relations. This sort of clanship extends to the lowest non-commissioned officer, while the Sarang and Gawar are either relations of the Governor of the province, or men whose property and influence will not admit of their being neglected. (Kinneir — Malcolm — Morier — Fraser — Chesney — Shiel — Simart.) IRIS— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, south of Ardebll, situated in a well cultivated plain producing a great deal of corn. {Morier — .) ISAWANDI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, on the road between Btlshahr and Dalakl. Water is brackish from wells ; supplies are procurable for small parties. (Petty.) ISPAHAN— Lat. 32° 39' 34"; Long. 51° 44' 37"; Elev. A city of Persia situated on the left bank of the Zainderud river in the district of Ispahan in the midst of an extensive plain of about 75 miles from east to west and 20 miles from north to south, inclosed by a range of mountains presenting a singularly serrated outline, and well watered by the tortuous Zainderud. It was formerly surrounded by a wall 24 miles in circumference, but this was destroyed by the Afghans and now scarce a vestige of it remains. The city has 10 gates, viz., 1, Hasanabad ; 2, Darwaz Cy Karoen ; 3, Saidak Moedjoen on the east ; 4, Shoebaru ; 5, Togtshie ; 6, Karoen ; 7, Dari- dast; 8, Darwaz-i-nao ; 9, Darwaz Lamboen ; 10, Dowlat. All these gate- ways are made of mud and have no out-works to defend them, and are only secured by clumsy folding-doors. The city is divided into 22 quarters, 17 of which are distinguished by the name of Mamerh-olla-sie (?) or Namet holladers (?) and the five others are called Haidari. Each of the above 17 quarters have distinct appellations, 187 ISF viz., 1, Baghet or the quarter of the gardens, because it formerly contained nothing but these ; 2, Kerron ; 3, Dashbettin ; 4, Syad Ahmad Jan ; 5, Letvez (?) 6, Basver Agnes ; 7, Shahr-foi-Kotba ; 8, Sultan Senshirl ; 9, Namoafig ; 10, Shoebare; 11, Darreh Raba Kasim; 12, Gonde Maksud Beg; 13, Gtllbar; 14, Maidanmier; 15, Niema Wort; 16, Darreh Kock. The names of the Haidari quarters are, 1, Maleynow; 2, Dar-i-dast; 3, Hoecynja; 4, Togtshie. The streets of Ispahan are narrow, dirty, and mean, and not less than one quarter of the city is in ruins. Houses, bazars, mosques, palaces are to be seen in total abandonment, and one may ride for miles among its ruins without meeting any living creature, except perhaps a jackal peeping over a wall or a fox running to his hole. In the streets nothing of the houses is to be seen, all that is visible being a uniform dead wall. The entrances from the street to the houses are generally mean and low, except in the cases of habitations of men in power, when the gateways are elevated in proportion to the vanity of its owner. The houses are generally only one story in height, but are composed of so many compartments that even the meanest of them occupy a considerable area. They are built either of earth or brick, and their uniformity in height and color produces a very dull appearance when seen collectively. The bazaars are very extensive, and it is possible to walk under cover in them for 2 or 3 miles together. The traders are here collected in separate bodies, which makes it very convenient for purchasers. To a stranger the bazaars are a very amusing place of resort, for here is a continual concourse of people in which characters of all descriptions, each busied in their different avocations, are seen to pass in rotation. Many of the scenes so familiar to us in the Arabian Nights are here realised— the young Christian merchant — the lady of quality riding on a mule, attended by her eunuch and female slave —the Jewish physician — the criers showing goods about — the barber sitting with his back against the wall in a very little shop. On Fridays the bazaars are more particularly thronged, and the women on that day are to be seen in parties, going to the cemeteries on the skirts of the city to mourn over the graves of their relations. The bazaars are all laid out on nearly the same plan as those of Constantinople. In them the confluence of people is certainly great, and if the crowds here were a fair measurement of the general population of the city, the whole numbers of Ispahan would swell rapidly, but as every one in the course of the day has some buisness on this spot, the rest of the city is comparatively deserted, and as the traders also themselves have here then- shops only and return to their homes at night, the mixed multitude which throngs the bazaars, again scattered over all the quarters of the town become a very inadequate proportion of its extent. The women, except indeed the very lower class generally, remain at home, and during the day form with their children all the population of some parts of the town Of the principal buildings in Ispahan, the college called Madrasse Shah Sultan Huseyn is remarkable. Its entrance is handsome: a lofty portico, enriched with fantastic twisted pillars and intermixed with beautiful marble of Tabiz leads through a pair of brazen gates, of which the extremities are silver and the whole surface highly carved and embossed with flowers and verses from the Koran. The gates pass into an elevated semi-dome, which at once opens into the square of the college. The right side of this court is occupied by the mosque, which is still a beautiful building covered by a 188 ISP cupola and faced by two minarets ; but the cupola is falling into decay, the lacquered tiles on its exterior surface are all pulling off, and the minarets can no longer be ascended, for the stairs are all destroyed. The interior of the dome is richly spread with variegated tiles on which are invocations to the prophet and verses of the Koran in the fullest profusion. The other sides of the square are occupied one by a lofty and beautiful portico, and the remaining two by rooms for the students, twelve in each front, arranged in two stories. These apartments are little cells spread with carpets, and are admirably adapted for study. The palaces of the King are enclosed in a fort of lofty walls, which may have a circumference of three miles. The palace of the Chehl SitUn is situated in the middle of an immense square, which is intersected by various canals and planted in different directions by the beautiful chenar tree. In front is an extensive basin of water, from the farthest extremity of which the palace is beautiful, beyond either the power of language or the correctness of pencil to describe. The first saloon is open towards the garden, and is supported by eighteen pillars, all inlaid with mirrors; each pillar has a marble base, which is carved into the figures of four lions, placed in such attitudes that the shaft seems to rest on their four united backs. The walls, which form its termination behind, are also covered with mirrors, placed in such a variety of symmetrical positions that the mass of the structure seems to be of glass, and when new must have glittered with most magnificent splendour. The ceding is painted in gold flowers, which are still fresh and brilliant. Prom this saloon an arched recess, in the same manner studded with glass and embellished here and there with portraits of favourites, leads into an extensive and princely hall. Here the ceiling is arranged in a variety of domes and figures, and is painted and gilded with a taste and elegance worthy of the first and most civilized of nations. Its finely proportioned walls are embellished by six large paintings, three on one side and three on the other. Adjoining the Chehl Situn is the modern palace called Fattehabad, built for Fateh Ali Shah, which is a very good specimen of the style and work- manship of the present day. The Maidan Shah no longer presents the busy scene it must have displayed in better times. The whole of its great extent, 600 paces by 200, was formerly covered with tents, but these are now confined to one corner near the Nokara Khaneh. The Masjid-i-Shah is still a noble building and the Masjid-i-Luftulla is exteriorly in good repair. The population of Ispahan is variously estimated by the different authorities from 600,000 of Chardin to 150,000 Moriskin. Its popula- tion now may be about 200,000. The inhabitants have by no means lost their manufacturing industry. All kinds of woven fabrics, from the most expensive velvet and satin to the coarsest nankin and calico, are manufactured ; besides which many hands are employed in making gold and sdver trinkets, paper and paper boxes, orna- mented-book covers, guns, pistols, sword blades, glass and earthen-ware. The sweetmeat shops, too, are a remarkable feature in this city ; these are very numerous, and thus consumption almost incredible. The water-supply of Ispahan is excellent, coming, as it does, from nu- merous canals from the Zainderud. With regard to supplies, it is certain that Ispahan could subsist a very large force. 189 ISF— 1ST Ispahan is the largest city in the Persian Empire, and is the emporium of a large trade coming from India, Turkey, and Afghanistan. ISAPHANAK— Lat. Long. Elev : A village in Isfahan district, Persia, 6 miles south of Isfahan. There are many villages, gardens, and cotton plantations round it, and in the vicinity is a ruined castle of the Gabrs. It is situated just at the foot of a range of hills which screen the view of Ispahan. (Ouseley — Morier.) ISFANDEKEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of the province of Kirman, Persia, west and north of Sarjaz. It is said to be rich in flocks and oxen. {Abbott.) ISFARJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ispahan, Persia, 72 miles from Ispahan on the west road from Shiraz, from which last it is distant 188 miles. {Jones.) ISFARAGIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Kurdistan district of Khorasan, Persia. {CAesney.) ISFIZAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 24 miles east of Birjan. It has a ruinous castle on a hillock, which with a few houses outside contains about 20 families, partly Shiah and partly Suni, and it has few gardens and corn- fields around it, with a good and sufficient supply of water from a canal. {Forbes?) ISHRAT1BAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Nain district, Irak Ajami, Persia, situated on a small un- even plain and possessing a small fort. {Abbott.) ISKANDARIAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia. It is a small but prettily situated village, surrounded by a profusion of herbs and wild flowers, but chiefly remark- able for the cave in its vicinity, or about 1£ miles north-east and 100 feet above it. This cave is approached by a steep ascent through a fissure in the mountain, and about 25 to 30 yards wide, and it consists of a room about 36 paces square, from the centre of the east side of which is of irregular form, beyond which the cave descends in a south direction to a considerable distance and depth, but as the mephitic vapour within immediately destroys animal life, it is impossible to explore it. {Ouseley.) ISMAILIAH— Lat. 80°50'; Long. 48°46'; Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the left bank of the Karun river, 70 miles above its junction with the Shatt ul Arab, and 14 miles east from Ahwaz. It belongs to the Bawl section of the Chab tribe, and carries on a little trade with Shustar and Mohamrah. {Selby — Layard.) ISMAILABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 33 miles south-east of Shiraz on the road to Lar by Jehrum. It has a fortaliee and a few gardens with a small stream. {Jones?) ISTAHVONAT— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Fars, Persia, situated 12 miles from the south-east corner of the lake of Neyriz. The district of Istahvonat extends from the south border of the lake some miles beyond the mountains to the south. The productions consist of barley, wheat, rice, millet, Indian corn, cotton and tobacco. Walnut and sycamore trees flourish in this part, and there is one of the latter of remarkable height and girth, being 45 feet in circumference and 190 1ST— JAG 2 feet from the ground. The district possesses 8 villages. Its climate is remarkably healthy in winter, as is that of all the circumference of the lake. The porcupine is found here. {Abbott.) ISTAKHAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 10 miles west of Persepolis and 20 miles north- west of ShirSz. It is celebrated on account of the ancient castle of Istakhar, one of the citadels of Persepolis. The rock on which the castle is placed arises abruptly to a height of 500 feet above a steep conical hill of some 1,200 feet in height. The avenues to the summit are so difficult that the villagers assert -that goats were the only four-footed beasts that could climb them, but Morier thinks asses and mules could get up. The rock at its summit exhibits nothing but a few scanty shrubs and one largest fir tree placed at its south extremity near the largest of the remains of four reservoirs. {Kinneir — Morier.) IZZABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Yezd, Persia, 17 miles west of Yezd. The village is gradually undergoing the change which other villages of this plain have experienced from sand-drifts. On its south side, the gardens and houses have been buried for the space of above 100 yards in breadth, and to the height of 15 to 20 feet in a sand of the finest grain. It is now 30 years since the village has been exposed to this calamity, which by degrees is driving the inhabitants in the opposite direction to the drift. {Abbott.) IZATDEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, west of Amol. The village is long and straggling, extending about 2 miles from one end to the other along the shores of the Izatdeh river, which is here 70 yards broad and crossed by a narrow wooden bridge. The houses are miserable huts, consisting of a single apartment and thatched with reeds or the leaves of the sugarcane. They amount in all to 120, though the numerous sheds and out-houses among them would suggest a larger number. It pays a revenue of 1,000 tomans. {Holmes — Fraser.) JABAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of the country of the Chab Arabs in Khuzistan, Persia, which extends from the village of Jabar to the sea, to the Shatt ul Arab and Bandar Mashur. This village, it is said, can turn out 600 of the best matchlockmen of the country. {Colville.) JABUS FORT— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Khuzistan, Persia, near Mohamrah. ( Wray) JAFARABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 24 miles south-east of Tehran. {Fraser.) JAGATU— Lat. _ Long. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises in two branches, one coming from the Takht-i-Suliman, and the other from near Banna in Kurdistan, and which 191 JAG— JAH join at Sain Kalla. The east branch is called the Zer Afshan, the south the Sartik StJ. From Sain Kala it flows nearly north, till it falls into the Lake of tJrumia, west of Binab. At Ya Kont, Battak, about 20 miles from the source of the east branch, there is a remarkable spring on the left bank strongly impregnated with gas. Beyond this the river forces its way through a narrow passage, not more than 20 feet wide, with perpendicular rocks on both sides. Thence it flows on the north of the plain of Mian- dab, and as the plain slopes down gradually to the shores of the lake, it wears itself into so deep a channel as to render the work of irrigation one of considerable difficulty. At the point where it is crossed by the road between Binab and Miandab, it is about 30 yards wide, and is crossed by means of a raft constructed of beams placed across inflated sheep-skins. Two miles below this ferry the stream is generally fordable, as the waters have become shallow by expansion ; and it is said that in the depth of winter it some- times freezes so hard that large caravans cross its surface, though the rapidity of its current would seem to make this improbable. (Kinneir — MonteitA — Rawlinson — Mignon.) JAGHESI— -Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Kirman, Persia, which rises in the Bashakard mountain and flows into the sea, east of Cape Jask, by two outlets, viz., the Khor Noktarash and Naijyae. It is usually about 50 yards wide and 3 feet deep, with banks 12 feet high in March, but in summer it dries up, though water is procurable at 2 or 3 feet depth in its bed. After heavy rain it is sometimes impassable. {Johnson.) JAGKARK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 15 miles west of Mashad. It is embo- somed in gardens, and in front of the houses under large clumps of trees are shady and commodious spots of ground for encamping. (Ferrier.) JAHAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 30 miles from Tehran and 50 miles from Firozkoh on the road between them. It has a fine stream along which culti-. vation extends for many miles. (Eastwich.) JAHANABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, on the road between Tehran and Hamadan. It is situated on a plain, even as a bowling green, the soil of which is salt. It is well peopled, and its houses seem to be in good condition. It is the residence and chief place of a Chief of the Kara Gazlu tribe. [Morier.) JAHANGIREH— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Luristan, Persia, situated on the coast. Its seaport is Mo°-u. The villages of this district are Vaish, Kenan, Terakema, and Bastak. The people are wealthy and do not pay Government anything beyond the usual revenue. They have about 2,000 matchlockmen. (Petty \ JAHAN NUMA— Lat. Long. Elev. A ruined pleasure-house in Mazandaran, Persia, 14 miles east of Sari. It is situated near a river, and is surrounded on all sides by high mud walls having been most probably an ' anderoon.' It has an upper and lower story^ divided into a great many chambers, the largest of which is on the upper floor : most of them are very small. All the ceilings are vaulted, and the doors and windows opening on every side must have made the place a very 192 JAH cool and agreeable summer residence. The walls and roofs have been very beautifully painted, and the figures of women dancing and playing musical instruments can be distinguished, but nearly all the colours have been rubbed off or obliterated by soot and smoke. Some of the roofs are curiously worked into a small fret-work of niches of the most fanciful shapes, which have originally been fitted with bits of looking-glass; but only two or three pieces now remain, and the plaster is broken and des- troyed. The interior decorations of Persian houses seem to have under- gone no change since the time of Abbas, and many rooms in Tehran and other towns are embellished in precisely the same style. In one of the apartments on the ground-floor, the flowers and scrolls painted on the roof, which had lost their colour and were stained with smoke, had exactly the appearance of Japan-work. On the flat top of the building are the remains of a square brick tower, overgrown by luxuriant creeping plants, which, though they heighten the picturesque beauty of a build- ing, materially hasten its decay. In the court-yard, in front of the principal entrance, is a little mud hovel, contrasting strangely with the forlorn and decayed glory of the palace; they were true emblems of the state of Persia — past greatness and present misery and poverty. {Holmes.) JAHBtJN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Aj ami, Persia, about 60 miles east of Tehran, on the road to Mazandaran. It is situated in an extensive valley, 20 miles in length and 4 miles in breadth, and has cultivation for about one mile all round it. (Alorier.) JAHGARK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 20 miles on the road from Nishapur to Mas- had. There are numerous fruit gardens around it and much cultivation. It contains about 500 houses and is a favorite resort of the Mashadis. (Clerk — Eastwick.) JAHRT3M— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Ears, Persia, 63 miles south-west of Darab, and 90 miles south- east of Shlraz. It consists of a walled fort of great length and in good condition, situated near rocky mountains, which lie on the south-east of it, and extend in a direction east and west. The town is said to contain within and without the walls 3,000 families. The walls are of recent con- struction and are about 3 miles in circumference, but there are more houses outside than inside them. Many of the habitations possess turreted towers as places of defence. The land around Jahrtlm is principally irrigated with water drawn from wells (by bullocks) with which the plain is every- where dotted. The scarcity of running water is extreme. This is the principal mart for tobacco, which is brought here from all the surrounding districts and disposed of to traders, who distribute it over the country far and near. These traders are numerous, and many established here are wealthy; they usually transact their business in their private houses without resorting to the caravanseraes, of which there are six in the place. The following is a rough estimate of the produce of tobacco in some of the neighbouring districts : — Mans of Galbasi = 720 Miscals. Prices. Laristan ... ... Keran 1 1 10c* per man. Togum and Bidshakr ...50,000 „ 10 Od for Togum. „ 1 10 Od for Bidshahr. 193 2 A JAH— JAJ Mans of Galbasi. = 720 Miscals. Prices. Ala Mardasht ... 65,000 Keran 1 Od Kir and Kazin ... 25,000 „ lOd Gheledar and Assia ... ... 50,000 „ 1 Od Lazher, Mekan, Afzer and Kowreh ... 50,000 „ 1 lOd Jahrum ... 30,000 „ 1 1 5d per man. The other articles of native produce, which enter into the trade of the place, are dates and rice of Kir and Kazin. The former are worth at Jahrum at 9-14 for 25 mans ; the rice, of which there may be 150,000 mans, sells at 1 for 2 mans. Some 30,000 to 40,000 tomans worth of English cotton imported from Tehran are disposed of annually at Jahrum. There are 30 dealers in these goods here ; groceries, spices, and cotton manufactures are brought from India by Bandar Abbas, Assaloo, and Bushahr. Grapes, dates, water-melons, pomegranates, figs, plums, apples, and fruits of the orange and lemon species grow here abundantly ; the first named are very excellent and sell at the ridiculously low price of one shaki (a half-penny) for 720 miscals, or about 7 lbs. A considerable quantity of raisins is exported to India. Barley and wheat are not produced in this district in sufficient quantity for consumption in consequence of the scarcity of water. There is a salt mine 3£ miles distant to the west. The district of Jahrfim measures 30 miles by 15 miles and contains 18 villages. (Abbott.) JAIDAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Luristan, Persia, on the left bank of the Kashghan river above its junction with the Kerkliah. The plain is considerably elevated above the valley of the Kerkah, but still much lower than the high table-land beyond the ridges to the east. It is stated to be a perfect paradise in the spring, as well from its verdant herbage as from the quantities of wild flowers that enamel its surface. It is cultivated by some 300 families of Deh Nishins of the Amalah division of the Pesh Koh, and also affords winter pasture to the great tribe of Hasanawand. (Rawlinson.) JAIHIBA KHOB^— Lat. 28° 9' 35"; Long. 51° 21' 10"; Elev. A small river of Fars, Persia, which rises in the hills to the east and falls into the Persian Gulf a few miles south of Kongun. (Brucks). JAIB-I-KOTTLBID— A ditch in Persia, 18 miles from Ashraf and 7 miles from Gez, which forms the boundary between the provinces of Astrabad and Mazandaran. It is a dry ditch about 10 yards wide and five deep, and was formerly constructed as a protection against the Turkmans. It extended from the mountains to the sea, but is now in many places almost obliterated, the banks having fallen in and become overgrown with vegetation. (Holmes.') JURUD — Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Irak Ajami, Persia, which rises in the mountains of Demavand north-east of Tehran, and flows with a direction south-west in an undefined bed more or less deep to the plains of Veramln, where it is expended in irrigation. _ All accounts agree as to the extreme rapidity of this river, especially in winter, when it is much swollen by the melting of the snow ; it comes down with very great velocity, carrying everything before it. The lands irrigated by this river are deemed specially fertile and seldom 194 JAL— JAN change hands. At the point it is crossed on the road from 20 miles east of Tehran to Mazandaran ; the ford is attended with some difficulty on account of the rapidity of its current and the loose boulders in its bed. {Morier — Connolly — Stuart — Clerk — Ferrier — Fraser — Fastwick.) JALABAD— Lat. 26° 42' 39"; Long. 53°46'30"; Elev. A village in the Laristan coast of the Persian Gulf, north of the isle of Kenn. It is a small village, with several towers on the hill over it. It is inhabited by about 300 men of the Beni Ahmad tribe, has a few boats, and affords small quantities of cattle and poultry. It has good water and is well sheltered from north-westers. (BrucJcs.) JALAKAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, 8 miles below Shustar on the Karun, with a small mud fort inhabited by a Baidarwand branch of the Haft Lang Bakh- tiarls. {Layard.) JALALABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village and fort in Kirman district, Persia, 55 miles north-west of Kirman. {Abbott.) JALGIRD— Lat. Long. Elev. The hills south of the Karun river in Persia, and between Mai Amir and Susan, are so called. JALGUR— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of hills in Khorasan, Persia, north of Kishlak, on the road from Tehran to Shahrtid. {Clerk.) JALILAWAND— A division of the Lak tribe of Persia, who are spread over Persia, but are found principally in Fars and Mazandaran. {Chemey.) JELIRABAD— -Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 31 miles north-west of KhafF and 13 miles east south-east of Turshez. There is abundance of water in water-courses (kanats). The soil is light gravel and sand. {Clerk.) JAMAL BAREZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of low hills in Kirman, Persia, about 40 miles south of Bam. The tract of country lying between the Bud Khaneh Saghder and the Rud Khaneh Shor comprising this ridge is known as the district of Jamal Barez. A pass known as the Gudar Mugat crosses these hills here. {Abbott.) JAMALI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 24 miles south-east of Bam, situated in a very fertile tract in the highest state of cultivation, and intersected in every direction by running streams. (Pottinger.) JANEKI GARMS1R— A tribe of Khuzistan, Persia, dependent on the Bakbtiari Lurs, but from its numbers and influence generally regarded as the chief of the Char Lang Bakhtiarls. Its sub-divisions are Zangenah, Mombeni, Makiyawand, Koryangenah, Bui, Awasl, Servisbani, Kigupi, Malagajl, Telari, Kara- baghi, Mar Daudi, Gareseri, Gurgeri, Beig-dedl. Each division has its Chief (Khet-khuda, or Resh Sufed) who has little authority except within his own encampment. Of the divisions above enumerated, the Mcmbeni, and Makiyawand are the most powerful, the former having between 8 to 900 excel- lent matchlockmen, the latter 5 to 600 equally good horsemen. The Janeki Garmsar matchlockmen are considered as the best among the Bakhtiarls, and they are celebrated for personal courage. These tribes are chiefly Deh 195 JAN— JAR Nishlns, and very seldom visit their Sardesirs during the summer and autumn, being employed in their rice-fields. Their villages and encampments are chiefly in the plains of Bagh-i-Malik, in the valleys of Mai Daud and Mil Agha and among the neighbouring low hills. The tribe of Mombeni occupies the valley of Mai Daud, the tribe of Zangenah the plain of Bagh- i-Malik, and the Makiyawand the country near Taulah and Gulgir. The tribes of Janekl Garmsar are the most peaceable of all the BakhtiSrls, seldom engaged in war, and neither given to plunder or robbery. They number about 5,000 families. (Layard.) JANEKI SARDSAR— A tribe of Khuzistan, Persia, dependent on the BakhtTarl Lurs, who inhabit Gandeman and Lurdegan, and the mountains in their vicinity, during the summer months, and Bors and the neighbourhood of the south branch of the Karun and Lurdegan in the winter. Their sub-divisions are Jalili, Aurek, Yar Ahmedi, Monji, Barsi, Rigi, Mangarmuwl, ArmSndi, Bujeri, Bum, Shiyazl, Rafarle, Mesenni (Mamasenni), Hellusadi, Sheruni, Satehl, DuderajT, MelasT, and Asheri. They number about 3,000 families, and are for the most part Deh Nishins, their Chief residing in the village of Lurdegan. They are neither celebrated for courage nor skill as matchlock- men, but have 5 to 600 good horsemen. The valleys of the Janekl Sardsar are, on the whole, not ill cultivated. Rice, corn, and barley are raised in abundance; gardens and vineyards producing good fruit surround their villages, and the hills are thickly wooded with the dwarf oak (beloot) and other trees. (Layard.) JANGAL HAIDARABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 50 miles south of Turbat Haidarl and 44 miles east of Tun. The people of this place are very poor and miserable ; as there are no wells or water-courses (kanats), they depend entirely on the rain for their supply of water ; and if that fails or is scanty, little or no corn can be raised, so that their fields sometimes He untouched for years together. From the strong saline impregnation of the soil all their water is brackish. There was formerly a large dam in the hills above Jangal, which supplied water for the cultivation of corn to the extent of 2 or 3 miles round the place, but it is now out of repair. (Forbes.) JAPALAK — Lat. Long. Elev. A valley to the east of the Bakhtiarl mountains in Persia. (Layard.) JARAHl — Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia, which rises under the name of the Kurdistan river in the hilly country of Sarhad Chenar in the BakhtTarl mountains to the north of Behbahan. Thence it flows south and passes the ruins of Kurdistan, (where it already has a breadth of about 350 feet,) and the village of Deh Dasht, through Tang-i-teka, a narrow defile, into the plain of Bebahan, through which it winds about 4 miles from the town. Thence it flows north-west asfar as Kaliphabad, south of Ram Hormaz, where it is joined by the Ab-i-Ala, and shortly after by the Tezeng river. From this point it takes the name of Jarahi, and becomes a broad deep stream not at any period of the year fordable, and runs between steep and high mud banks to the south-west to within 8 miles of Fellahiah, where it divides into two branches, one of which is generally termed the Nahr Bmsl, runs into the sea at Khor Musa near Bandar Mashur; the second continuing its course through Fellahiah is eventually lost in irrigation, 196 JAR— JAS except a small branch of it which finds its way into the Karun 10 miles above Mahamrah. The upper portion of this river, as far as the junction of the Ab-i-Ala, is well wooded with oak, walnut, rhododendron, and wild vine, but at this point it ceases. It is connected with the Kartin by the canal which leaves that river at Sablah, and by this means Mahamrah and Basra are reached. It is navigable from the junction of the Ab-i-Ala for country boats, and Chesney says boats can ascend it from the Persian Gulf. This river is navigable for boats of 4 or 5 tons throughout its length, until within some 12 miles of Ram Hormaz, the trip taking five days. There are great many boats on the river, perhaps not under 1,000. At the point where the Fellahiah canal leaves it is a fine river, being compared by Colville with the Thames at Richmond. It has a mid-channel of 8 feet, with gently curving and well defined banks irregularly fringed with date trees, and showing on either hand a well framed breadth of land with numerous cattle and horses. (Kinneir — Chesney — Layard — Be Bode — Felly — Colville.) JARtJFT— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Kirman, Persia, about 60 miles south of Bam. It is a warm tract of plain country, lying between parallel ranges north and south, many parts of which are clothed with low jungle. As it possesses a mild climate and abundant pasturage, it is resorted to in winter by many small tribes who occupy the mountain districts at other seasons. It possesses only four or five collections of huts, which can be termed villages, each possessing a small mud fort as a place of refuge, but seldom inhabited : these are Sarjaz, Du Sare, Kala Nao, Kala Pesh. The rest of its unsettled population reside in little groups scattered over the plain. The heat is so great in summer and the flies so numerous that it is almost wholly deserted by the tribes, who return to the mountains of Jamal Barez. The lands yield grain, millet, pulse, beans, rice, cotton, henna, palma-christi, and dates; and some parts are of great fertility ; from 5 to 30 fold being spoken of as the return for barley and wheat. In the middle of January when Abbott visited it, green crops of barley, high enough to be cut for the food of cattle, were standing in the fields. Sheep, goats, and horned cattle, and their produce, butter and wool, are advantageously purchased here. The flocks yield lambs twice a year. The regular revenue is stated to be about £1,450, but is nearly doubled by local impositions. The jungle and reeds with which this plain is clothed in parts abound with game, such as the francolm, the partridge, known as JaruftI, Perdrix Pondicereanus , and the wild hog. The boiling point of water on this plain is 209°, and the thermometer at 10 a. m. on 22nd January was 81° in a tent and at noon 86.° {Abbott — Kinneir.) JARUM — Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Pars, Persia, through the mountains of Lviristan, south of the townof that name. [Chesney). JARZUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, 12 miles north-west of Bebahan, on a tribu- tary of the Jarahi. It is a rich place surrounded by gardens. (Monteith.) JASB — Lat. Long. Elev. A sub-district of Kum, Irak Ajami, Persia, north of that district. (Abbott ) JASK— Lat. 25° 38' 50'; Long. 57° 46' 40"; Elev. A town on the coast of Kirman, Persia, 2 miles north of Cape Jask and 8 miles from the hills. It is situated on a plain 6 miles by 4, surrounded 197 JAZ— JEB by sand-hills, and consists of 250 huts defended by a mud fort, and is tributary to the Imam of Maskat. Water and a few bad supplies may be procured here. The height of the outer walls of the fort is about 24 feet, and it is of an oblong shape, being 120 paces long by 80 broad. The height of the inner walls is about 60 feet. Within the fort are 8 very small guns dismounted. The gate looks towards the north and the fort contains 6 wells. There is anchorage off the town of Jask in 4£ fathoms, with the following bearings :— Fort, north 49° east; three ^tone peaks, north 15° 30'; west extremes of the coast from south, 17° 25'; east to north 70° west. Horses and several sorts of dry fruit, as well as ghee and some cotton, are exported from it. ,.■,.. i vi Cape Jask is a low sandy point of land, round which is very tolerable an- chorage. There is a small fishing village at a short distance from the shore, where a vessel might be supplied with sheep of an excellent quality, and fill up with water from a well-tasted well not far from the beach. The Chief of Jask usually resides at Serik north-west. The district of Jask, which is dependent on the Imam of Maskat, is bounded east by the river Sirich, north by the Bashkard mountains, south by the sea, and west by Sirik. The following sea-ports are dependent on it, viz., Sirik, Zabrez, and Jigin. The cultivation carried on in Jask is quite dependent on the rainfall, and it consists of wheat, barley, millet, joaree, and cotton. The revenue may amount to 500 tomans, of which the Imam receives 300 tomans and when there is rain a tax is levied of one-fourth of the produce and may amount to 6,000 Jask maunds. (Kiuneir — Kempthorne — Hajee Abdoon Nubbee — Brucks — Johnson.) JAZIRAT DARAZ— See Kishm. JAZIRAT MALGARAM— Lat. 27° 50' 30" ; Long. 51° 38' ; Elev. A small wooded island off the coast of Fars, Persia. (Brucks.) JAZIRAT MALGASAB— Lat. 27° 50' 30"; Long. 51° 32'; Elev. An island in the Persian Gulf off the coast of Fars, Persia. It is a low narrow island about h\ miles long. Within is a narrow channel with 12 or 14 fathoms, but blocked up at each end. You may approach this island to 5 fathoms in the day and 7 in the night. (Brucks.) JAZIRAT TOWILE— See Kishm. JAZIRAT YABRIN— Lat. 27° 55' 40"; Long. 51° 28' 40"; Elev. An island in the Persian Gulf off the coast of Fars, Persia. It is at the commencement to the northward of the islands and banks which form the Bardistan reef. (Brucks?) JAZ MORIAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Kirman, Persia, lying between Rudbar and Bampur. (Abbott!) JEBL— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 46 miles east of Ispahan, consisting of a few huts amid gardens and trees. (Abbott.) ' JEBLIBAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of mountains in Persia, which bound Fars on the south and Luristan on the north, and run through Kirman to Makran. It is a continuation of the spur of the main range of Kurdistan, which emanates from mount Elvand and thence runs on under the name of the Bakhtiari mountains. 198 JEB— KAB JEBL DERING— Lat. 28° 3' 55" ; Long. 51° 47' 27" ; Elev. A hill on the coast of Fars, Persia, which forms a well-known landmark J>etter known as the Hammocks of Kenn. {Brucfo.) JESAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in Luristan, Persia, 8 miles S. 20 W. of Badrai. It is celebrated for its date groves. The soil here is favourable for the growth of orange and lemon trees, and the land produces grain of various kinds, cotton and hemp, but the vicinity is so exposed to the depredation of Arabs that its inhabitants engage little in its cultivation. (Layard.) JEZAR— Lat. 26° 50' ; Long. 53° 26' 45"; Elev. A village on the Luristan coast of the Persian Gulf, a few miles south of Nak- hllu and opposite the isle of Bashiab. It is described as a considerable village, containing about 200 men of the AlbUbalal tribe, and is subject to NakhilQ. {Brucks.) JIRREH— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain and district of Pars, Persia, 40 miles south of Kazirun, extending north and south for 24 miles and east and west for about 15 miles. It is "culti- vated between the " koonar" bushes which abound here. {Kinneir — Abbott.) JOREZ — Lat. Long. Elev. A walled village in Tabas district, Khorasan, Persia, 7 miles south-east of that town, containing 200 houses inhabited by Persians. (Ferrier.) JORJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in the province of Astrabad, Persia, 90 miles east of Astrabad and 80 miles north-east of Bostan. He probaby means Jahjurm. {Kinneir.) JUANRU— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Persian Kurdistan, situated about 65 miles south-west of Sehna. It is divided into four lesser districts, and is governed by a nominee of the rali of Sehna. {Rich.) JUGAM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Luristan, Persia, 57 miles from Lar, on the road to Jahrtim, from which it is 36 miles distant. It is a large village situated in an open country; water is procured from wells. There are many date groves here, and much tobacco is cultivated. [Jones.) K KABIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A salt marsh in Irak Ajami, Persia, on the road from Tehran to Kum, between Pul-i-Dalak and Kinaragird. It runs from east to west about 150 miles, and is in some places 35 miles in breadth. {Kinneir.) KABODAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A walled village in Khorasan, Persia, 63 miles south-east of Nishapur, on the road to Tun. It contains 300 houses inhabited by Persians. {Ferrier ) KABUTA KH1N— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 50 miles west of Kirman. It has about 40 houses, an old serae recently repaired, and a post-house. {Smith.) 199 KAB— KAF KABTJT GtJMBAZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village in Ispahan district, Persia, 23 miles east of Ispahan. There is a small caravanserae here, and provisions can be obtained in small quanti- ties in a village about 2 miles from the serae. {Clerk.) KIBtJT BAHANG— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, the second stage on the road from Hamadan, north to Sultania. It is situated in a fine district rich in corn, but the heat is very oppressive in summer. Owing to the great scarcity of wood, the peasants collect for fuel the common thorn, the ' khar shutar/ which overruns the country, and lay it up in stacks for the winter. (Morier.) KADAMGAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 42 miles west of Mashad. It has fort on a hill 600 feet above the plain, which might be made a strong position. There is a magnificent avenue of cedar trees in a fine garden, watered by a clear stream, in the centre of which is a neat little mosque containing a stone with the imprint of the Imam Beza's foot upon it. It is inhabited by Syads, and is one of the places to which Persians make pilgrimages. There is a road, called the Kadamgah route, which goes by this village from Nishapur to Mashad. It is easier than the alternative route of Dahriid, but is longer. There is a magnificent view of the plain of Nishapur from the fort. {Connolly — Ferrier — Clerk — Fastwick.) KADAMGAH ILIAS— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting place in Kirmanshah district, Persia, 14 miles north of Kirmanshah, on the road to Sehna near a rock of this name. There is a fine spring of water here, and many villages and much cultivation around. KADABABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Kirman, Persia, 5 miles north-west of Daolatabad. It is made of mud, and has a number of huts of branches and reeds round it, and a copious " kanat" stream running close to it. {Abbott.) KADAB PAIGHAMBAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A fortress mentioned by this authority as existing in the mountains near Sultania in the Khamseh district, Persia. {LeBrun.) KADtfGAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 75 miles south-east of Nishapur, on the road to Tun. It contains 150 houses inhabited by Persians, and is walled. {Ferrier.) KAFILAN KOH— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in the Khamseh district, Persia, over the range between the Kizl Ozan and Zanjan rivers on the road between Zanjan and Miana. This range is a spur of the Azarbljan mountains. The ascent from the west commences almost immediately after crossing the Kizl Ozan river and takes about 1£ hour, and the descent about the same. Eraser says it is one of the easiest mountain passes he ever crossed. It rises about 1,000 feet above the plain. When Eastwick passed it in 1861, a good road was being made over it, about 40f eet broad, with a foundation of stone and a gutter on either side. The crest of this pass is the boundary between the provinces of Azarbljan and Khamseh. The remains of a stone causeway are here and there visible. Morier has the following remarks regarding the geology of this mountain : — " Its stratifications have been thrown together by some great commotion into the most extravagant positions. In some places they are perpendicular; 200 KAF—KAI in others almost horizontal. On the south of the Kizl Ozan is one limb of the mountain almost entirely composed of chalk, here and there with schis- tose strata intervening ; and on the right of the road in the descent from Gultapeh are hills apparently of clay of conical forms more or less distended, the strata of which are as horizontal as if mathematically laid. {Holmes— • Fraser — Eastwick — Morier — Ouseley — Stuart.) KAFSHIGIRI—Lat. Long. Elev. " A village in the district of Astrabad, Persia, 20 miles on the road from Gaz to Astrabad. It contains about 150 houses, all small and thatched, with the exception of one in centre, the residence of the chief man, which is a tiled house situated in the midst of a garden. The sesame, called kunjiud, is extensively cultivated in this district. The seed is often sprinkled in the flat bed of the country, and the oil produced from it is eaten by the Turkmans, and largely consumed in the manufacture of soap — a principal article of exportation from Astrabad. The oil is used as a medicine. It is a pretty village and can turn out 100 horsemen. To the north of it is an isolated pyramidical hill, which is very green and beautiful and is generally used as a look-out station against the Turkmans. There are some mulberry plantations here, and about 2,000 acres are sown with wheat, barley, and other grains. {Eastwick — Holmes.) KAGTJR— Lat. 28° 18" 40'; Long. 51° 17' 30"; Elev. " A village on the coast of Fars, Persia.. {Brucks.) KI HAIDAR— Lat. 29° 37' 8" ; Long. 50° 33' 48"; Elev. "A village on the coast of Fars, Persia, situated about midway between Bandar Dilam and Bandar Reg. It is a small place with a fort, and has about 100 inhabitants, mostly weavers. {Brucks.) KAHISTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. " A fort in the Kurdish district of Khorasan, Persia, on the bank of the Insha river. It belonged to the Turkish tribe of Gereile. {Fraser.) KAHRISTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. " A village in Luristan, Persia, on the road from Lar, east to Bandar Abbass. {Chesney.) KAIFARI— Lat. Long. Elev. ~" A village in Fars, Persia, situate north of Shiraz. It produces wheat, barley, gram and dhall. The climate here is very pleasant in summer, and is much resorted to by Arab nomads. {Petty.) KAIKAUS — Lat. Long. Elev. " A village in Fars, Persia, 7£ miles north-west of Behbahan. {Be Bode.) KAILUM— Lat. Long. Elev. " A pass leading over the Bakhtiari mountains, Persia, on the road between Shustar and Khoramabad. {Bawlinson.) KAIMtiRS— " A sect of free thinkers in Persia, who deny everything they cannot prove by natural reason. {Chesney.) KAISRAK— Lat. Long. Elev. " A small village on the coast of Kirman, Persia, some 30 miles south of Mlnab. {Brucks.) 201 2 B KAJ KAJAR— " The royal tribe of Persia. They inhabit portions of Astarabad, Mazandaran, KhorasEn, and Tehran, and number about 10,000 families. The division of the tribe are— YokaribSsh. Devanlfi. Khazi Nehdonlu. Seponlu. Kerlii. Kohnalii. Khaizablu. Ashagab&sh. Kavanlu. Azdanla. Ziandlu. Shambeyatlu. Tasblii. Caramansanlu. "The tribe of Kajar are originally from Syria. They were brought from that country to Persia in the year of the Hijra 803 by Timfir. After the death of that prince and his immediate successor, this tribe in- creased so much in numbers and shwed, on repeated occasions, so seditious and insubordinate spirit that Shah Thamasp, fearing their power one day might subvert the government, determined to divide them in such a manner as to render them incapable of united action. He in consequence separated them into divisions, one called Azdanlu, of which he sent to the town of Merv in Khorasan ; one to Ponnah in Azarbljan ; one to Kazvin in Irak ; one to Ganjah in Georgia ; (these afterwards attached themselves to Nadar Shah and earned the title of Kajar Afshar ; they declined from the death of that monarch) ; and another to Astarabad in Mazandaran. In that part of this numerous tribe which was sent to Astarabad there were two chief families. The one was distinguished by the name of Yokari- bash, the other by that of Ashagabash, as above stated. The latter became celebrated for the numbers of warriors and statesmen that it produced, who successively reached the highest honor in the Court of the Safavian mon- archs, and in the commencement of the weak reign of Shah Thamasp, the last and most unfortunate prince of that race, Fateh All Khan Kajar, who was the representative of the Ashagabash family, obtained the height of power, and was entrusted by his indolent sovereign with the seal of empire, which he employed more to further his own ambition than to advance the interests of his master. " At this period Nadar Kali Karklu, so well known afterwards by the 1725 A D name of Nadar Stah > entered the service of Shah ' . Thamasp, and began early to form those vast pro- jects of ambition which he afterwards matured. Fateh All Khan, who was infact pursuing the same road, was from his character the only noble that Nadar conceived had the spirit and ability to oppose his aggrandizement. He therefore determined to remove him, and combining with those ministers who were jealous of Fateh All Khan's fortune, he procured from the prince m a moment of intoxication an order for his confinement, which was carried into execution the 29th September 1725, and the unfortunate Fateh All was lodged as a prisoner in the camp of his rival, by whose order he was immediately assassinated. "Husen Khan, the son of Fateh Ali, the moment he heard of his father's iate, mounted a fleet-horse and fled in Turcomania, and while Nadar Shah lived he never visited Persia; but taking advantage of the troubles that 202 KAJ occurred at that tyrant's death, he returned, aided by a body of Tarkmans, to his native town Astarabad, and collecting all his tribe in that quarter, soon formed an army, which made him master of the provinces of Mazan- daran and Ghllan. Elated with his success he marched against Adil Shah, the brother of Nadar Shah, by whom he was completely defeated, and his eldest son, Aga Mahamad, fell a prisoner into the hands of the victor, who on the spot deprived him of his verility. " The dissensions that arose in the family of Nadar Shah soon ended in its destruction, and Persia was for a period without a monarch, torn by the most bloody civil wars carried on by usurpers that rose like baneful weeds in every village of that distracted empire. " The chief among those were Husen Khan in Mazandaran, Asad Khan Afghan in Azarbijan, All Mardan Bakhtiari at Ispahan, and Karim Khan Zand in Irak. The contest for power raged with violence near five years. Fortune then declared for Karim Khan Zand. Asad Khan Afghan became his prisoner. Husen Khan Kajar and Ali Mardan Bakhtiari fell in battle. The more insignificant pretenders to sovereignty were all either taken or fled, and peace was restored to Persia. "Aga Mahamad Kajar, who had escaped from his confinement and joined his father, was, on the latter's death, made prisoner and brought with his six brothers to Shiraz, where they were retained as hostages for the good behaviour of their tribe by Karim Khan, who the better to secure his family in his interests married one of their sisters. " Husen Kali Khan, another son of Mahamad Husen Khan, and the only one that was foil brother to Aga Mahamad (the others being of different mothers) fled into the mountains of Mazandaran, and raised serious commotions in that quarter ; these were however soon quelled, and Husen Kuli was taken and put to death. He left two sons, the eldest, Fateh Ali Khan (after- wards Fatteh Ali Shah) , and the second, Hosen Kuli Khan. During the fife of Karim Khan, Aga Mahamad remained at Shiraz, and was treated with respect and confidence. Karim Khan entertained the highest opinion of his abilities, and took no measure of consequence without consulting him. When that prince expired on the 13th of the month Suffer 1193 Hegri, 1779 A.D., the sister of Aga Mahamad immediately sent him intel- ligence of the important event, and he lost not a moment at so critical a junction. Attended by his brothers he left Shiraz under a pretext of hunting, and fled for Mazandaran when favoured by the contentions that ensued on Karim Khan's death : he arrived in safety, and was welcomed with joy by his tribe, who collected from all quarters round his standard. " The troubles and revolutions in the provinces of Fars and Irak left him undisturbed in Mazandaran, and he made such excellent use of his time that in two years the whole province of Mazandaran and several neigh- bouring districts were settled under his authority. " In the third year, 1783 A.D., of his power, he advanced with all his forces against Tehran, which under its gallant governor, Ismail Khan, who held it for Ali Morad Khan, king of Fars, resisted his attacks for ten months. After that period Aga Mahamad succeeded in bribing some oft he principal officers, who assassinated their governor and admitted him at night into the town. He only enjoyed till the morning the fruits 203 KAJ of his treachery ; when day appeared, the brother of Ismail Khan, fired with a grievous despair, collected a few adherents and made a violent attack on Aga Mahamad, whom he repulsed with great loss from the city. On the same day that this misfortune occurred, news arrived of All Morad Khan having marched from Ispahan with a large army to the relief of Tehran. Aga Mahamad instantly retired to Mazandaran, where he was pursued by the Shekh Wise Khan, the son of All Morad, and unable to resist such an enemy, Aga Mahamad retreated as he advanced, and at last fled to the fort of Astarabad, on the shores of the Caspian, while the whole province of Mazandaran submitted to the conqueror who, supported by his father All Morad at Tehran, remained at the town of Sari, and detached a strong force under Mahamad Taher to besiege Astarabad. The success of these operations seemed certain, and Aga Mahamad's ruin inevitable : he was saved by means as unexpected as extraordinary. Hamza, a native of Mazandaran, who had been taken prisoner by Shekh Wise Khan, con- trived to make his escape, and flying to the mountains assembled a party of his countrymen, with whom he completely destroyed the grand causeway, by which Mahamad Taher Khan, Zand, who was besieging Astarabad, received his supplies. The consequence of this action was immediate distress for provisions in the camp of the besiegers, who, wore down by want and sickness, began to desert in all directions. The troops in Astarabad, aided by the citizens and encouraged by the wretched state of their enemies, made a general sally, nor did they find it difficult to overcome men already subdued by disease and famine. They made a general slaughter of 6,000 only. Only one was spared to convey the intelligence to Shekh Wise Khan, who fled with precipitation to Tehran, where he found his father in the last stage of dropsy, which, added to his misfortune at Astarabad, and the intelligence he had received of his cause of Jaffar Khan, whom he had entrusted with a command in Armenia, having rebelled, made him resolve in retreating towards Ispahan, but he expired before he reached that capital. " The troubles that followed that event in Fars were most favorable for Aga Mahamad, who not only regained Mazandaran, but also took Tehran and made it the capital his government. Jaffar Khan, who had succeeded All Morad at Ispahan, sent no less than four armies against Aga Mahamad, who successively defeated them and pursued his last victory so well that he got possession of Kashan; and J aflar Khan was so terrified at this success that he precipitately abandoned Ispahan, and fled with a few followers to Shlraz, leaving behind him almost all his property. Aga Mahamed took instant advantage of this pusillanimous conduct, and m two days made himself master of Ispahan which was left totally defenceless. Jaffar Khan established himself at Shlraz. Affa Ma- hamad for the present contented himself with settling the country round Stato m ° lty ^ kft a gOVernor and retu med to his own capital, "This year, 1788 A.D., was not more distinguished by Aga Mahamad's success against his enemies than by his cruelties to his friends, and parti- cularly to his own family. The moment his power seemed fixed, he Wan to show his real character which he had before carefully disguised. He seized and put out the eyes of his brother Mustapha Kuli, his 204. KAJ brother Pirza died in an attempt to escape. Martiza Kflli Khan, another brother, fled to the Empress Catherine, by whom he was honorably received and was treated with distinction by the Russians till he died. Of the nobles who were put to death, the chief was All Khan Khamseh, and KhUsru Khan, Ardelanl, despoiled of all his property, died in extreme misery. " In the year 1789, A.D., Aga Mahamad, who now governed all Mazanda- ran, Irak, and part of Armenia, advanced against Shiraz, but when within two days' march of that city retreated without effecting anything of import- ance. " In the same year and soon after his retreat, Jafar Khan was put to death by the former governor of Shiraz, Syad Morad Khan, and the latter was in a short period deposed by Lutf All Khan, the son of Jafar. Aga Mahamad hearing of these dissensions hastened again to Shiraz. Lutf Ali assembled a small force and went to meet him, but was defeated and obliged to find his safety within the walls of the town. Aga Mahamed conti- nued before Shiraz forty days, but finding all his exertions inefficient, he retreated to Tehran, where he employed himself in plans for subjecting the whole of Armenia. " In the succeeding year 1790, A.D., fortune obtained for Aga Mahamad what he had in vain endeavoured to accomplish. Lutf All Khan, the young prince of Persia, though gallant and generous, was suspicious, headstrong, and violent and had in a few months disgusted all the nobles about him, and none more than Hajl Ibrahim, his Vizir — a man of the most uncommon abilities. When Liitf Ali marched towards Ispahan to recover that city, he left this minister at Shiraz, and he took advantage of the trust to ruin his prince and to transfer the fortunes of the Zand family to that of the Kajars. It is urged by his friends that he knew it was Lutf Air's intention to put him to death if he returned, but this is not easily reconciled to the circum- stance of that prince having left him in sole charge of his family and capital. " On the night of the 18th Tehedge 1204 (1790 A.D.), when the army was within three miles of Ispahan, Mahamad Husen Khan, brother of Hajee Ibrahim, in consequence of a preconcerted plan, raised an alarm in camp and fled with the troops under their command. This example was followed by most others, and Lutf All left with a few attendants, and ignorant of the cause of the alarm or defection of his army, hastened to Shiraz, where he soon became acquainted with the extent of his misfortune, as he was refused admittance, and those even who had attended his person attempted to kill him. In this extreme he led to the country of Dashtistan on the sea-shore. " Hajl Ibrahim immediately sent a messenger to Aga Mahamad to acquaint him that he would deliver up the fort of Shiraz to whoever he chose to send as it was his desire to put an end to war that had so long desolated the country. Aga Mahamad received this news in Armenia, and despatched for Shiraz 8,000 men in three divisions, at three different periods, under his chief officers Mustapha Killi Khan, Bala Kajar, Jan Mahamad Khan and Eeza Kuli Khan. ' " Lutf All heard of their approach, and though he could only assemble between four and five hundred men, he scorned to give up the struggle and advancing towards Shiraz he attacked the Kajar generals separately and 205 ' " ""* KAJ combined, and always with success. In the last great action he had with them he took prisoner Reza Kali Khan with 1,200 men to whom he behaved with great cruelty. " Aga Mahamad on receiving these accounts advanced with his whole army, which amounted to about 60,000 men. When encamped within three days of Shlraz, Lutf All, concealing his want of numbers under the shade of night, attacked with a body not exceeding 500 this immense force. He completely surprised the camp; all was terror and confusion. He had advanced close to the tent of Aga Mahamad, and had he proceeded, he would have been sovereign of Persia by one of the most bold and wonderful actions that ever was recorded in history, but he unfor- tunately listened to a pretended friend, who assured him that Aga Mahamad and every soldier of his army had fled, and that only the baggage and treasure remained ; and that if he attempted to seize that before morning, he would lose in a promiscuous plunder what, if preserved, would make him a rich monarch. Thus deceived he waited till day, and when that broke an extraordinary spectacle was presented. Aga Mahamad, surrounded by about 10,000 of his army, mostly the infantry, which were all that remained, and the victorious Lutf All Khan a few hundred yards from his tent with about fifty horsemen, the rest having separated to plunder : he of course fled. Aga Mahamad advanced and took possession of Shiraz, where he remained till the whole of his army re-assembled, some of the fugitives not having stopped till they reached Tehran which is upwards of twenty days' journey. " Aga Mahamad now assumed the sovereignty of all Persia. He seized every relation of the Zand family, and those whom he did not put to death he deprived them of sight. He distributed the women of Lutf All Khan among his mule drivers, the greatest disgrace he could possibly inflict. On Hajl Ibrahim he bestowed the highest honour, and a twelve month afterwards when he determined to follow Lutf All Khan (who had, assisted by about 200 followers, taken Kirman), he appointed him governor of all Pars. " This expedition of Aga Mahamad's was attended with the most shock- ing ravages ; he laid waste the country and murdered the inhabitants as he went along. He was nine months besieging the town of Kirman before he could take it, and Lutf All Khan having previous to its surrender cut his way through the strongest part of his army with only seven attendants, he is said to have given way to the most savage fury and to have wreaked all his vengance on the inhabitants. The men who were not slain had their eye plucked out, and it is affirmed on undoubted authority that seven hundred suffered this dreadful punishment in one day. The women and children were delivered up to the lust and fury of the savage Turkmans. Lutf All Khan fled to Bam, which is about two hundred and forty miles from Kirman. Its faithless inhabitants first invited him to their fort, then seized him and sent him to Aga Mahamad, who immediately deprived him of sight, and then sent him to Tehran, where he was put to death. " Thus perished in the 28th year of his age a prince who was perhaps never exceeded in personal strength and undaunted courage. He is also said to have been generous and charitable, but his temper was proud and 206 KAJ unequal, and his passions so irregular and violent that he was no less the terror of his enemies than of his friends. " Aga Mahamad after this success marched from Kirman to Shlraz, the fortifications of which city he razed to the ground. He appointed Hajl Ibrahim Vazir to the empire, and after a halt of two months went to Tehran. "In the year 1794 A.D., Aga Mahamad proclaimed his nephew, Fateh All Khan, commonly called Baba Khan, successor 1794 A. D., to ^ t nr0 ne, an( j appointing him to the govern- ment of Persia Proper sent him to reside at Shiraz. He also put to death his brother, Jafar Ksli Khan, from motives of jealousy. "In 1795 A.D., he marched into the province of Armenia, all of which he subdued except the fort of Shlsha, which under its governor Ibrahim Khulbul Khan gallantly resisted his attacks eight months. Despairing of success, he raised the siege and marched into Georgia. He was encountered near Tiflls, , _ . xr ki • ^ e ca pital of the prince, by the Vali Arkuli Heraclious^well known In Khan* whom he defeated, and the city in conse- Europe. He was upwards of quence fell into his possession. He only remained 100 years of age at this tnere 12 days, which he employed in destroying peno ' and burning the town and in acts of the most inhumane cruelty. All of the inhabitants that were spared from the sword were given to his army as slaves. After these excesses he returned to Tehran, and commenced preparations for an expedition against Khorasan, which extensive province was ruled by a number of petty princes and chiefs who had neither owned the authority of the prince of Kandahar or Persia since the death of Nadar Shah. " The chief of these were Shah Rokh, grandson to Nadar, who ruled at Mashad.; Mir Husen Khan of Tabas; All Yar Khan of Sabzawar; Mustapha Khan of Turshez ; Jafar Khan of Nishapur ; Mehr All Khan of Birjanj and Amir Gana Khan of Kuchan. These rulers who had never united in one cause, were not only distracted at this period by their internal quarrels but alarmed by an invasion of Uzbaks. They in consequence received Aga Mahamad more as a friend than an enemy, and he advanced to Mashad without opposition. He made himself master of that city, and Shah Rokh, who was blinded in a former revolution, fell into his hands, with all his family, except his eldest son, Nasr Mirza, who made his escape to Herat. " Whether Aga Mahamad's conduct to this family was prompted by avarice or revenge of the early wrongs he had received from one of its branches, or both, it is immaterial to imagine. The cruelties he committed on them were shocking to nature. Round the head of Shah Rokh he made a ring of paste, and poured boiling oil upon his crown. The excruciating torture forced that prince to confess where the remains of the jewels and treasure brought from India by Nadar Shah were concealed, but the dis- covery did not save his life, of which he was deprived by the cruel means mentioned. All the males of this unfortunate family were made eunuchs, and the females, old and young, were distributed among the mule-drivers of the army. After these and a thousand other actions of a similar nature, 207 KAJ Aga Mahamad returned to Tehran, leaving garrisons in Mashad and other forts in Khorasan. "In the year 1797 A.D., he learned that the empress of Russia resenting his attack on the Georgians, had sent A. D. 1797. an armv amounting to 30,000 men, and that they had advanced as far as the city Ardebil. He immediately began preparations to oppose them ; but before these were made, the death of the empress Catherine occasioned a change of measures in the Russian Court, and the troops were recalled. The king turned the great force he had collected against the fort of Shlsha, which the governor, Ibrahim Kulbul, alarmed at his numbers, evacuated and fled. The moment Aga Mahamad received this intelligence, he crossed the Aras with a small party, leaving the bulk of his army under Haji Ibrahim on the Persian side of that river. He easily got possession of Shlsha, and began to exercise not only the most wanton cruelties on the inhabitants but on his own adherents, and to take such delight in shedding blood that it is affirmed he seldom said his prayers without giving signals in the midst of them to those around him to strike off the heads of some with whom he was offended. " But his fate was near. On the night of the 18th of Zehidge as he was going to rest, he called three of his personal servants, and upbraiding them for having lost or stolen one or two piastres and told them to go and take leave of their families and to say their prayers, as he would certainly put them to death next morning. Retiring disconsolate from the presence, they met Shadl Khan Shackaki who had been playing at chess with the king, and had lost a large sum which had ruffled his temper, and on his asking them the cause of their grief, they briefly stated what had occurred, and added the certainty of the king doing as he had threatened. If you are assured of that, said Shadl Khan, where is the risk in a brave attempt to save your lives ? Encouraged by this speech from a man of the first rank in the state, they consulted together, and in two hours returned to the chamber of Aga Mahamad, and perceiving he was asleep, they desired as from" him the guards to retire, lest they should disturb his repose. As they were known to be personal servants, the command was instantly obeyed. The guards had no sooner removed than they went into the room, and falling upon the sleeping king despatched him with a hundred wounds. " It was sun-rise next day before this event was known ; the moment it became public, the army in Shlsha dispersed, some joined Haji Ibrahim, others went to Husen Kuli Khan, and many retired altogether from a scene where they anticipated nothing but confusion. " The body of Aga Mahamad left unprotected fell into the hands of the Armenians, who for two days in revenge of their wrongs treated it with every indignity, dragging it by the heels through the streets, and to com- plete their insult, they buried it in the common sewer of the town. Aga Mahamad was a man of great abilities, but destitute of every virtue. Avarice and cruelty were the predominant passions of his mind ; the former he carried to an extreme, of which no history furnishes an example. " The great wisdom of Haji Ibrahim, the minister, and the fidelity of A D 1198. Mirza Mahamad Khan Kajar, governor of Tehran, added to the cruel precautions which Aga Mahamad had taken, secured a quiet succession to Baba Khan. That prince 208 b *-*s 3S.3 » ° §5 g-Hfa *" SS « a -is elf- TO („ .a rt *j «o a 3 fa or3 a rf H O » J eg "S & -d n d © ©aa 00 _*«3 .2 fa *- t 1 B « ■■"' t - s ,ge»s| -suns' .a is x « x ^ E S •- J5 IS £.3 M £■« ^ t- ° « *s o o a2 '". rt *£ m <*- J3 o a W ■4 a If s £-s s=S ° 1 _gs a g'S'-r.S'S & ■3 .a -a « aa » •v ,3 s a -a *a C B •« &0Oe : 3^ 2 K ffl 3-3 •eras K^i 5a B *-tJ -II PI a SIS'" ■a ° 3 ft ..3 5 -a 2^ N og M fa_i a" -SS.SS- ^;fl a a* i* aa^c t3 o'tjJ'^ 4«1» £■§, •a! ^ a - > 5 a 6 © ,B « faOQ IB- KAK— KAL KAKH— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khorasan, Persia, 90 miles on the road from Tarbat Haidarl to Birjan. It is situated on rising ground at the base of a range of hills, and contains about 300 houses, 4 good mosques, six baths, 40 tanks and several water-courses and a small caravanserae. Provisions of every kind are cheap and abundant here, but the inroads of the Turkmans and the want of a ready market for the produce keep down industry. About 7,500 lbs. of opium are gathered here annually, and are sold at 14-6, 29-8-6 kirans per mun (15 lbs.), 1-2 per lb. The opium yielded by poppies raised without irrigation is finer and dearer than that collected from plants which have been artificially watered. This place is celebrated on account of its containing the shrine of Imam Zada Sultan Mahamad, brother of the Imam Reza. (Forbes.) KALA AGHA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village and fort in the pass of Kirman, Persia, 109 miles west of Kirman. It was once considered a strong place, and made a stout resistance against the army of Aga Mahamad Khan when he passed it on his way to besiege Kirman. The fort has been since repaired, and there is a tolerable bazaar in which all kinds of supplies requisite for a traveller are to be had. (Potlinger.) KALA ALA — Lat. Long. Elev. A small mud fort in Khuzistan, Persia, near the Ab-i-Ala, branch of the Jarahi, the residence of the chief of the Bahmehl tribe. (Layard.) KALA ARU— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Fars, Persia, among the hills near Daghumbezun, the residence of the chief of the Bo-Rahmat, branch of the KohgilQ tribe (DeBode.) KALA BANDAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on right bank of the Dizful river, about 25 miles above its junction with the Karun. At this point there is a large island in the centre of the river, both branches of which are traversed by a ledge of rocks. In the right branch there is an opening in the ledge of sufficient size to admit of the passage of a steamer. The current here runs at the rate of about six miles an hour, notwithstanding which Lieut- enant Selby took the Assyria through with perfect ease, and ascended the river for some distance beyond it. (Selby — Layard.) KALA DARAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort close to the town of Darab in Fars, Persia. It consists of a mud rampart 35 or 40 feet in height, encircling an isolated rock from which it is distant some 800 paces. The rock itself is situated on the plain at about 4 miles from Darab south-west. The ramparts appear to have been flanked at short intervals by earthen towers, and a broad ditch, at present partly filled with water and reeds on which wild fowls lodge, encircles them. On the north-east an aqueduct has been carried across the ditch, and has con- sisted of substantially arched masonry, of which only some remains are now seen. This extended some way into the plain, and a water-course of masonry is continued from it within the rampart towards the rock. The rock has been crowned with buildings, and a well has been sunk from its summit. It is said that this place was destroyed by the troops of Umar. (Abbott.) KALA FIROZIBAD— Lat. Long. Elev. Some ruins in Fars, Persia, 2 miles west-north-west of the town of Feroza- bad, evidently those of a considerable town, its ditch and embankments 211 KAL forming a wide circle, the diameter of which may be about a mile. The ditch is 40 or 50 paces wide. In the centre of the area stands a tall solid square tower, composed of rough stone masonry 60 or 70 feet high. (Kinnier — Abbott!) KALA HAJI ALI— Lat Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, near the sources of the Shawar branch of the Dizful river. The neighbourhood of. the village is irrigated from this river, and it is celebrated for the gardens or rich arable land belonging to it. {Layard.) KALA HIS A R— Lat. Long. Elev. A small fort in Fars, Persia, 16 miles from Bandar Dilam and 40 miles from Bandar Reg. It is situated on a mound and a simple square of four mud walls enclosing a few huts. There are four wells of good water, about 100 yards west of enclosure. {Felly!) KALA- I-ASPED— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in the Bakhtiari mountains, Persia, near the source of the Ab-i-zal river. (Chesney.) KALA-I-DUKHTAR— Lat. Long. Elev. An ancient fort in Persia on the left bank of the Karun, at the point where it emerges from the mountains into the plain of Akill. It consists of a lofty detached rock which rises abruptly from the river, and has been sur- rounded and fortified to its very summit by great masses of stone taken from the torrent and united with the most tenacious cement. (Selby — Layard!) KALA IDRISIAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A mud fort on the left bank of the Karun, Khuzistan, Persia, inhabited by Arabs of the Idris tribe. It is 18 hours ' steaming above Mohamrah, and Selby considers it well fitted for a fuel station, there being a steep bank with deep water close up and abundance of tamarisk, and the people very civil and extremely willing to cut wood. [Selby.) KALA KHAID HATDAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in the Gunawa district of Fars, Persia, situated on the coast between Bandar Dilam and Bandar Reg. It consists of 12 huts situated on a bay with a sandy shore. {Colville.) KALA KHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Simalghan, district of Khorasan, Persia, 36 miles west of Burj- nurd. It is much exposed to the attacks of the Tekke Turkmans. (Burnes.) KALAMA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 52 miles from Bushahr on the Ferozabad road to Shiraz. It has 300 huts and a fortalice. Supplies of grain, ghee, rice, fuel and slaughtered cattle are procurable here. Water is obtained from streams and wells. This would form a good spot for a dep6t in the event of an army advancing by this road from Bushahr. The cavalry and heavier guns might be left here, while the infantry were clearing the passes in advance. Forage during the spring is very abundant, all the hills being covered with excellent grass. {Jones — Petty — Ballard.) KALA MAID AN— Lat. Long Elev. A walled village in Khorasan, Persia, 50 miles south-west of Nishapur, containing 70 houses inhabited by Persians. (Ferrier.) KALA NAO — Lat. Long. Long. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 7 miles north-west of Kha'ff, situated on a plain slightly encrusted with salt. {Clerk.) 212 KAL KALA NAO— Lat Long. Elev. - A village in the Jariifb district, Kirman, Persia, 55 miles south of Bam, consisting of a collection of huts with a small mud fort. (Kinnier — Abbott.) KALA NAO— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, situated north of the Jeblabad range, 40 miles north-north-east of Porg and 60 miles north-north-east of Jahrum. (Abbott.) KALA NAZAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the right bank of the Dizful river, celebrated for the gardens and rich arable land belonging to it. (Layard.) KALANDARABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 50 miles south-east of Mashad. It is situated in a valley about 12 miles broad, bounded by hills on the north infested by Turkmans, south by a range 3,000 to 4,000 feet above the plain, and east and west by detached hills. Here the prince governor of Khorasan holds an annual camp of exercise, a purpose for which it is well suited, as the air is cool and there is abundance of water, but in winter the cold is that of Russia, the roads becomes impas- sable from mud and snow, and neither supplies nor firewood can be brought to camp. When Eastwick visited it, the prince governor had a force of 14,000 men in camp. (Kastwick.) KALA PADAZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 72 miles east of Ispahan on the road to Nain. It has a small mud fort. (Kinnier — Abbott.) KALA PESH— Lat. Long. Elev. A small mud fort in the Jariift district of Kirman, Persia. It is only used by the inhabitants as a place of refuge. (Kinneir — -Abbott.) KALA RUSTAM— Lat. Long. Elev. An ancient fort in Persia on right bank of the Karun, opposite and similar in construction to Kala-i-Duhtar. (Selby — Layard.) KALA SADAT— A village in Pars, Persia, situated about 40 miles from Kala Sufed on the road to Shiraz. There is a route by this place from Hindian, which turns the Kotal-i-Malu and Kotal-i-Komariz passes. (Jones.) KALA SANG— Lat. Long. _ Elev. A rock and ruined fort in Kirman, Persia, 100 miles south-south-west of Kirman, 64 miles south-south-east of Shanri Babak. The rock is of consider- able size and height, rising from the plain, and is of crystallized limestone. It is encircled by a low wall with towers at a distance, varying in breadth and probably not exceeding 100 paces, and on the east side a second wall is carried out to a distance of 170 paces from the inner one. The spaces between both walls and the rock are occupied by the ruins of houses of unburnt bricks, but nothing remains standing excepting some defences which crown the highest part of the rock, partly of burnt, and partly of sun-dried, bricks. (Kinnier — Abbott.) KALA SARAE— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the province of Azarbijan, Persia, half mile from the east coast of the Caspian, two miles from the foot of the Talesh hills, and 35 miles north-west by west from Enzelli. (Fraser.) 213 KAL KALA SHEKH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the plain of Ram Hormaz and near the point of junction of the Ab-i-Ramoz with the Jarahl. (Layard.) KALA SPABID— Lat. Long. Elev. A village and fort in Ears, Persia, about 2 miles from the lake of Neyriz. (Kinnier — Abbott.) KALA SHAH KHANL— A village in Kirmanshah, Persia, 44 miles from Kirmanshah on the road to Sehna, and 49 miles from Sehna. It is situated on a fine plain near the junction of the Kazawar with the Karasu river, and not far from the boundary between the provinces of Kurdistan and Kirmanshah. KALA StJPED— Lat. Long. Elev. A rock fortress in Pars, Persia, 45 miles north-west of Shiraz. It is isolated, is 4 to 5 miles in length, 2 miles in breadth, and has a broad base, perhaps 5| miles in diameter, and does not become steep till near its summit, where it presents an abrupt rampart, and its crest is said to be only accessible by three paths only known to the Mamasenni. There is a road cut along the face of the rock defended by two towers and a gate. At the summit of the rock, which is about 1,000 feet above the plain, is a fine level plain about three-fourths mile square, the soil fine and with numer- ous springs of water. It was taken both by Alexander and Timur. The only fortifications are a line of huge stones ranged in regular order round the edges of the precipices. Each of these is wedged beneath by another of smaller dimensions, which when removed the large one is hurled in an instant from the top to the bottom, sweeping before it with irresistible force everything that tends to interrupt its course. It is a position of some importance, as it commands the high road to Shiraz from Khuzistan. The rock runs from north-west to south-east, and is composed of limestone rock in all sides very precipitous, but least so towards the west. There is abundance of oak and other trees on its summit, and plenty of water but no habitations. To the north runs the Talegun branch of the Tab river nearly in a north-west direction. There are four principal entrances to the fort, which face to the north-east, south-east, west, and south-west ; these are approached by very difficult and stony paths liable to have masses of rock thrown on them from above. Even in the present state of the neighbouring roads, guns might probably be brought with great labour near enough to the west entrance to cover an attacking party from a lower height close to it called the Shutar Khab ; at all events a road could be constructed for that purpose, but the capture of the fort in this manner, which must be attended with considerable loss as long as it could be strictly blockaded, seems a matter of doubtful importance, as its sur- render, if shut out from the surrounding country, must soon follow from want of supplies. (Monteith — DeBode^— Kinnier — Jones.) KALA SUKHTA— A village in the Bushahr district of Fars, Persia, situated about 40 miles from Bushahr. It is inhabited by 150 families of Arabs who pay a revenue of 100 tomans per annum. {Belly). KALA SYADAH— A village in Khorasan, Persia, west of Mashad. (Fraser.) 214 KAL KALAT— A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on the left bank of Kizl Ozan, 12 miles below Darram. It is a fine village surrounded by some magnificent plane and walnut trees. {Monteith.) KALA TAL— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort (mud) in Khuzistan, Persia, at the source of a branch of the Ab-i- Zard. It is the residence of the chief of the Kiyimurzae branch of the Bakhtiaris, and is built on a lofty mound. There are roads thence to Ispahan by Kumshah and to Shustar. {Layard.) KALATAN— Lat. Long. ' Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, at the north-west extremity of the plain of Solduz. {Rawlinson.) KALAT-I-NADAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, on the road between Ghorian and Khaf. It has plenty of water and forage. {Christie.) KALAT NADARI— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Khorasan, about 30 miles north-east of Mashad. It is situated upon a very high hill only accessible by narrow paths. An ascent of six or seven miles terminates in a plain, about 12 miles in circumference, watered by several fine streams. A second ascent by a route of 10 or 11 miles leads to another plain of greater elevation but of equal richness. Since the death of Nadar Shah, this place has been neglected. Before Nadar's time it was called Kalat Jah Jarm. [Malcolm — Kinnier) KALITIU— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Fars, Persia, on the road between Darab and Sarjan. It is situated on an isolated rock on the plain. {Abbott.) KALLAURISTAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A sub-district of Grhilan, Persia, lying between the Nimak-ab-rud and the Chalous. It produces rice, a little silk, and furnishes with the district of Tennacorben about 1,000 foot soldiers to the army of Persia. It is inhabited by the Khojavand tribe from Ardelan and Luristan. {Holmes.) KALA YCSAF KHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, between Mashad and Daragaz, about 120 miles from the former. It is fortified and has from 200 to 300 houses, and is situated in a valley which leads to Khabushan. {Fraser.) KALA ZAIDAR— -Lat. Long. Elev. A village and fort in Khorasan, Persia, 45 miles east of Shahrud. It has a stream of good water. {Clerk.) KALA ZANJTR— Lat. Long. Elev. A ruined fort on the road from Kirmanshah to Zohab in Persia, occupying a strong isolated position on the summit of a naturally scarped projection from the north-east brow of Delahu. {Jones.) KALA ZOHAK— Lat. Long. Elev. An old ruined fortress in Azarbijan, Persia, at junction of the Sareskand and the Karangu, 4 miles south-east of Tabrez. There are two fortresses, distant 500 yards from each other, and joined on south-east by a strong wall flanked with towers. The south castle has them much nearer than the other, and is better provided with loop-holes still in good preservation ; the walls 215 KAL— KAM also are stronger , and the whole appears to have been a kind of keep to the remainder of the fortress. These two castles are joined on the south-east along the steep brow of the hill; on the north-west no junction was necessary, as the rock there has a perpendicular height of 200 feet. KALBASH— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in the Kurdish district of Khorasan, Persia. It must be on the south side of the main range of this district, as Fraser says it stretches to Jah Jarm and Bostan. {Fraser.) KALEBALE BANLtJ— A tribe of gypsies who reside near Rfid-i-Sar in Ghilan, Persia. They are said to be a bad thieving lot. {Fraser.) KALEHCHAI— Lat. ' Long. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises in the Sahand mountain and falls into the lake TJrumia or Shahi passing by the village of Chawan and through the plain of Shishvan. {Morier.) KALENTES— Lat. Long. _ Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, a short distance from the south shore of the Caspian Sea, and on the bank of the Duzde Keud, miles west of Arnol. {Holmes.) KALGARAN— Lat.' Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, situated about 2 miles north of Ardebil. It is principally inhabited by Armenians. {LeBmn.) KALHURS— A tribe of Kirmanshah, Persia, who inhabit the district of Harunabad. It is the most powerful in the neighbourhood, and can bring a large body of men into the field. Their features are handsome and manly. They number 7,000 families, or 11,500 according to Shiel, and spend the winter in the neighborhood of Mendall in the province of Baghdad. They are of the Ali-Ilahi sect, and their holy place is the tomb of Baba Yadgah in the pass of Zardah. There is a section of this tribe who inhabit a part of the province of Sulimania and number 200 families. Shiel says this tribe are Leks. He adds that the women are handsome, the men tall and strong and excellent marksmen. {Rawlinson-r-Jones — Chesney — Malcolm- Mich — Shiel.) KALIP— Lat. % Long. Elev. A ruined fort in a rocky precipice close to the pass of Gaduk over the ElbtJrz mountains, Persia, on the road between Mazandaran and Tehran. {Stuart) KALKHtJM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 50 miles east of Bushahr, on the road by Firozabad to Shlraz. {Monteitk.) KAMIR— Lat. 26°5'6 40". Long. 55°40'20". Elev. A village on the coast of Laristan, Persian Gulf, opposite the island of Kishm, and west of Bandar AbbSss. It has large mines of sulphur, and very large quantities are exported annually. It belongs to the Im5m of Maskat. {Brucks.) KAMISEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A fertile valley in Khorasan, Persia, south of the Elburz range between Auarbat and Chasmah Shah Hasn. {Clerk.) 216 KAM— KAR KAMRYARAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Persian Kurdistan, 46 miles from Sehna on the road to Kirmanshah, from which it is 48 miles distant. It is on a branch of the Kazawar. {M. S. Route.) KAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajaml, a few miles (one stage) west-north-west of Tehran. It is described as a really lovely village, surrounded by gardens and vineyards, and with a rivulet which, issuing from a romantic glen, irrigates the gardens and flows through the principal street. The houses are half-buried in the foliage of walnut trees, mulberries, and weeping willows. {Stuart.) KANGAWAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A small town in the place of Kirmanshah, Persia, 45 miles south-west of Hamadan, and 52 miles east of Kirmanshah. It is built upon a series of artificial and natural mounds, and is remarkable for the ruins of a magnificent temple or palace near it, which has a length of about 250 paces by a breadth of about 30 feet. There is a caravanseraeshah here. {Kinneir — Ferrier — Taylor.) KANGARLU— A tribe of Azarbljan, Persia, who were originally settled in Nakshvan. {Monteith.) KANGULtJ— A tribe of Azarbljan, Persia, mentioned by Sir J. Malcolm as furnish- ing a regiment of infantry to the army of that province. {Malcolm.) KANI-RESH— Lat. Long. Elev. A district in the Urumia division of Azarbljan, north-west of Ushnae, inhabited chiefly by the Beradust tribe of Kurds. {Rawlinson.) KAONl— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain on the south side of the island of Kishm, Persian Gulf, 12 miles south-east of Bassadore. There are some salt caves near it. {Felly.) KARA-UNA— Lat. Long. _ Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 40 miles on the road from Bayazid to Khoi, from which last it is 50 miles distant. It is a wretched place, and is easily mark- ed by a square hut, which rising from the midst of its miserable huts appears a palace in comparison. The village is the chief of a sub-division of the same name, composed of about 21 villages situated on the same plain ; the principal "are Haidarlu, Nabikandi, Gelish Achcha Sedel, Zaiveh, and Akdezeh. These, says Praser, are built more in the Persian than the Kur- dish fashion. They are surrounded by a few willows and Lombardy poplars, and have considerable cultivation, well irrigated by numerous watercourses ; thence there is a road to Van, 50 miles distant, on a bearing of south-west. {Stuart) KARA B A— Lat. Long. Elev. A place off the coast of Khuzistan, Persia, situated below Khor Wasta and towards All Maidan. Brucks describes it as a piece of broken ground with irregular soundings of from 5 to 16 or 18 fathoms. The natives say that traditions mention a city formerly standing on this place, and say the irregularity of the soundings are caused by the ruins of the buildings. {Brucks) 217 2d KAK KARA BAKRA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Persian Kurdistan, on the road from Sehna to Bana. It is near the summit of the mountain range called here Chehlchemeh, on a stream which drains to the Kizl Ozan river. It is a filthy place, though some poplar and fruit trees make it look pleasant. On the opposite of the glen are the remains of a fort of the Bulbassis. (Sick.) K ARAB ATA— Lat. Long. Elev. A large village in Irak Ajami, Persia, on the right hank of the Kizl Ozan, inhabited by Afshars. (Monteith.) KARACHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Kurd district of Khorasan, Persia, 25 miles west of Shirvan. It is situated in a beautifully verdant valley with a fine stream and abun- dance of fine forage. The mountains around are rocky and barren, and their stratification is of a very remarkable and often grotesque character. (Eraser.) KARA CHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Irak Ajami, Persia, said to take its rise in the Koh-i-Zard near Burujard, and to flow in a brackish stream to the Pul-i-Dalak. (Abbott.) KARA CHAMAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 64 miles south-south-east of Tabrez, situated in a fine fertile valley with a stream of excellent water and inhabited by Armenians . ( Ouseley. ) KARAETU— Lat. Long. Elev. A series of ancient caves in the Suj Bolak district of Azarbijan, Persia. (Hawlinson.) KARAGAJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Ears, Persia, which runs past Khana-i-Zanian. It is a consider- able stream, and is sometimes fordable with difficulty. Taylor calls this river the Karahach. (Petty) KARAGTJL— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khamseh district of Irak Ajami, Persia, 33 miles west- south-west of Zanjan, on the right bank of the Kizl Ozan. It is a con- siderable village, situated on the rise of the plain as it begins to stretch up to the hills. (Hawlinson.) KARAJ — Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Irak Ajami, Persia, which rises in the Koh Arang Rtjdbar, and descending into a beautiful green valley its • bed is expanded, and its water drained off into different channels for purposes of irrigation. (Morier ) KARAK— Lat. 29°15'2". Long. 50°18'50". Elev. An island in the Persian Gulf, situated off the coast of Fars, 30 miles north- west of Bushahr. It is about 4£ miles long. It runs north and south, and its southern extremity is rocky and elevated, nearly 100 feet above the level of the sea, whilst its other extremity is low and sandy having the fort of Karg on its north-east point. The rocky portion rises abruptly from the sea, and its summit is a tableland which has, on the greater part of its surface, a thm loamy soil cultivated in the rainy season. The sides of the ridges presented to the sea are broken in upon by several deep and broad fissures, extending in upon the tableland upwards of 300 to 400 yards, in whose hollows masses of stone are deposited, as if they had fallen there on the formation of the rents. The rock is composed of coralline sandstone and limestone, also plentifully mixed with fossil tulipora with an 218 KAR appearance of horizontal stratificates, but most commonly present only in huge tabular masses superimposed in a loose sandy basis, abounding with disintegrated particles of limestone and mica, occasionally assuming a stratified formation with the strata of different colors. Limestone, with an earthy appearance resembling chalk, and detached pieces of gypsum now and then occur, but no other geognostic formations are found. In the limestone numerous oyster, cockle, lamprey, and a variety of smaller shells are obtained — fossils cooeval with the island's formation, which is Neptunian, and has by some convulsion of nature been raised from the bottom of the sea — at a period later than the primary formation of the continent. The tableland of the island is occasionally intersected by low ravines, and towards its north boundary it becomes irregular and sloping, smaller mounds leading gradually down to the sandy plain. The soil formed by the disintegrated rock and. the sand is tolerable, and might be cultivated if the slope was sufficiently extensive and regular. As it is, many of the ravines are gardens in which are fruit trees and vegetables, while in the clefts of the rock are planted and enclosed by circular stone walls, which cause many portions of the rock to look as if covered with ruins. The low part of the island possesses a sandy soil, mixed with particles of disintegrated rock, and capable when irrigated of producing crops. About 100 acres are thus em- ployed by the inhabitants, and during the cold season upwards of 500 are cultivated ; when the rains fall, the soil, though meagre, is capable of great improvement. The beach is of small breadth, and rises somewhat abruptly from the sea, whose bottom is covered with coral rocks. Its sand is firm and intermixed with calcareous particles by constant attrition formed into a variety of shapes, and dead shells without pebbles either calcareous or quartzy. The inhabitants of the island are degenerated Arabs, who live within the walls of the fort which enclose a much larger space than is now required, even though many gardens are attached to the houses. Their occupation principally consists in piloting vessels up the Shatt-ul-Arab to Basra and in fishing. They proceed to the banks of the Shat-ul-Arab in the date season, and on their return cultivate the soil on Karg and the neighbouring island of Korgo. The grains grown are maize, barley and wheat; brinjals, radishes, beans and goods are abundant, but fruits are scarce. A few grapes and water-melons can only be procured at times on the island, while every variety of fruit and vegetable with other supplies are easily and cheaply obtainable from Bushahr and Basra. The botanical productions of Karg are the date tree, banyan {ficus Indica), willow {accacea Arabica), henna- bush, cotton plant, tamarisk, jowasa, &c, some of the common fruits of Persia, and occasionally on the rocks a*few aromatic shrubs. The wood on the island is insufficient to afford a supply of fuel, which is brought in small boats from the neighbouring islands. Bullocks and sheep are fed on the island, but with the exception of a few antelopes, no quadruped exists in a state of nature. Partridges and quails are occasionally seen. Turtles have been caught on the beach and fish is plentiful. The water found on the island is abundant and of excellent quality ; it is obtained either by dig- ging wells 20 feet below the surface, or from long subterranean aqueducts which extend often from the centre or from one side of the rocky part of the island to the other. These underground channels were found by the Dutch and were believed by them to be very ancient : they extend inwards often 219 KAR a mile in the solid rock, and holes, circular and square, are cut down upon them from 10 to 15 feet deep to admit fresh air and light, in order to permit the inhabitants to pass up and remove any accumulation likely to choke them and to raise the water. Their mouths are frequently in a low arched cavern formed by nature, and it is not until some distance inwards that they exhibit art as having had recourse to for their formation. It is therefore most probable that the springs, having been discovered issuing from the rock by the first inhabitants of the island, were followed up to their sources to ensure a constant supply of water. Their courses are generally in a straight direction, and their beds run on a soft calcareous soil, the basis on which the coralline rock of the island is superincumbent, and which has been originally removed for the construction of these aqueducts; so that almost invariably the rock forms their roof, down which places for the admission of air and light are cut. The stream from these springs is small, but constantly and generally terminates in a large pool outside the cavern in a ravine, whose hollow exhibits an abundance of natural vegetation, or is converted into a garden by the natives. Captain Taylor, Political Agent, Turkish Arabia, however, writing in 1818, says "the quality of the water does not deserve the enconiums passed on it." The climate of Karak has always been deemed very salubrious. The atmosphere is less moist than that of Bushahr. The maximum range of the thermometer in the hot season is seldom above 95° in tents, and with " tatties" it can often be kept down to 75°- The best anchorage on the east side of the island is as follows : — Karak from north-west by north to south by west half west, the adjacent island of Kargo north by west to south by east. Halila peak in Persia south-east by east in nine fathoms, sand off shore half a mile. Ships should always be guarded against a shift of wind, so as to be able to clear the Seud of Karak in time, particularly as the bottom is loose and the island hereabout is fringed with a coral reef. The passage between Kargo and Karak ought not to be attempted at night, except in cases of great necessity. There used to be a very good pearl fishery off this island. Karak is under the jurisdiction of the governor of Biishahr. The island of Karak was occupied about 1748 by a detachment of Dutch from Batavia under Baron Kniphausen. They came in two ships, and found no difficulty in taking possession of the island, where they instantly erected a small fortification ; in consequence the island rose rapidly in im- portance. The local position was peculiarly favourable to commerce, and it possessed great advantages in the abundance and excellence of its fresh water and the salubrity of its climate. Its population, which amounted formerly to 100 poor fishermen and pilots, increased within the 11 years that the Dutch held it to upwards of 12,000 souls. On the death of Baron Kniphausen his successor's measures were not equally good and the place declined, till the Dutch being surprised by the pirate Mir Mohana were driven out of the island in 1765. On the Persian advance against Herat in 1837, the Indian Government sent a small detachment to occupy the island of Karak, and their numbers were so much exaggerated by the time the news reached the Persian court that this measure had the effect of making the Shah raise the siege ' The detachment first sent to Karak consisted of 500 men of the 15th 21st, and 24th Bombay Native Infantry, and 30 native artillerymen 220 KAR with one officer and two 6-pounder guns, and arrived in June 1838. After- wards four companies of the Bombay European Regiment, two 6-pounders, an 8-inch mortar, and 24 European artillerymen arrived on 22nd Septem- ber to reinforce them. On the raising of the siege of Herat, the detach- ment was withdrawn. (Malcolm. — Morier — Wilson — Taylor — Brucks — Win- chester — Fontanier.) KARAKAN— A sub-division of the Save or Khalejistan division of Irak Ajaml, Persia. It contains 39 villages. (Abbott.) KARA KIA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, situated on and about a curious black rock, on the north slopes of the Savalan Dagh, and about 18 miles north of the peak. (Morier.) KARANGU— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises in the Sahand mountain, and flowing generally west joins the Miana river just before the junction of the latter with Kizl Ozan, and after the confluence of the Ai Dagemish river. Its waters are reckoned the finest in Azarbijan at Kala Zohak; it is a consider- able stream and only fordable with difficulty. (Morier — Monteith ) KARAPAPA— A tribe of Persia, who reside in the Solduz district of Azarbijan. It is a Turkish tribe, and had been settled for a long time in Georgia before the Russo-Persian war of 1826 ; on this occurring, they sought refuge with Abbas Mirza, governor of Azarbijan, who received them with open arms, giving them the district of Solduz on the military tenure of furnishing 400 horse to the crown whenever called upon. The Karapapas originally numbered about 500 houses, and they found in the Solduz district 4 000 or 5,000 families of peasants, chiefly Kurds, of the Mikrl, Mamesh and Zerza tribes, with a few Mokadam Turks employed in the cultivation of the soil. Since their location in this favoured spot, they have been able to buy the proprietorship of the greater part of the lands, and thus have gone on increasing in wealth and prosperity, till at the present day there is certainly no tribe in Persia that can compete with them in comfort and independence. Free from all the evils and annoyances which attend the government realization of revenue, the chiefs reside each in their respective villages, with their military retainers around them engaged in their agri- cultural pursuits and feeding upon the fat of the land. This tribe has a very high reputation for courage and skill in horsemanship. (Rawlinson.) KARA su — A village in the province of Azarbijan, Persia, situated 25 miles north-west of Dilman. It is situated on the slopes of the Sar-al-bagh range. One of the sources of the Zab river is near this place. (Chesney ) KARA SU— A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises in the rocks of Boralan in the plain facing Little and Great Ararat, and falls into the Aras opposite Sharur Dagh. It forms the boundary between Persia and Russia in this part. KARA SU— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises in the Bagru Koh, or mountains of Talish, immediately east of Ardebil, and flowing north and then west round the foot of the Savalan Dagh, turns north and falls into the Aras at the Aslandusford after a course of about 200 miles. 221 KAR In the spring it is a very considerable river, but at other times it is almost entirely withdrawn for irrigation. Along its banks is one of the principal entrances to Persia. {Monteith.) KAEAT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 88 miles on the road from Herat, west to Khaf, from which it is 24 miles. The village is ruined, the inhabitants having been carried off by Turkmans ; but water is procurable and firewood is abundant. The ground for encampment is confined. {Cleric.) KARATAPEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Mazandaran district of Persia, situated three miles from the extreme west corner of the Astarabad Bay. It derives its name from a black hill or mound round which the village is built, precisely in the man- ner of an old Guebre village, and has a very curious appearance. The houses are all slight structures of wood, reeds, and straw, except one edifice of bricks at the top ; one side of this is peopled by Persians, the other by 125 to 150 Ghilzae Afghan families brought here by Nadar Shah — for what particu- lar object is unknown; yet the existence of this colony here is of the greatest service, as the Afghan Sums serve as negotiators with the Turkmans on behalf of Persian Shlahs who have been kidnapped ; without them many a Persian would languish for months in Turkman bonds without any medium existing by which his ransom could be effected. The inhabitants of this village cultivate rice, barley, and wheat, and their fields are neatly kept and enclosed with good hedges. Bread is commonly used by them, but the wheat crop sometimes fails when it is very scarce. The people complain that this place is unhealthy in summer, and that the stream with which Karatapeh is supplied with water being at that time small, it becomes'strongly impregnated with the salt of the soil. In winter and in spring the current is quicker, but being also more abundant the unpleasant taste of the minerals is hardly perceptible. {Vambery — Holmes — Ouseley) KAR^TASH—Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbvjan, Persia, on the right bank of a branch of the Kizl Ozan inhabited by Afshars. {Monteith.) KARA TURAO— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of the province of Kurdistan, situated next to that of Hasanabad {Rich.) KS.RA ZlADIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, about 35 miles north of Khol, and 30 miles west of Julfa in Russian Armenia, on the left bank of the Perehchai situated in a very fertile valley. It contains perhaps 200 houses. {Morier Fraser) KARDAN — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajaml, Persia, 45 miles from Tehran on the road to Kasvin. It has 150 houses, and all its land, which is good and produces wheat, barley, and rice, belongs to the crown. It is celebrated for the excellency of its water. {Easlwick — Stuart.) KAREIBA — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the bank of the Jarahi between the plain of Ram Hormaz and Fellahiah. {Layard.) KARBZ — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 30 miles on the road from Tur'bat Shekhiam to Herat, from winch it is 80 miles. It is walled and contains 100 houses, has 222 KAR good water from a small rivulet and a little cultivation. There is an exten- sive ruined serae at the hack of the village. The melons of this place are celebrated throughout Persia. It is the frontier village of Persia towards Herat. [Clerk — Ferrier.) KAREZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak AjamI, Persia, 24 miles west of Tehran on the Kasvin road. ( Ouseley.) KAREZAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A small cluster of villages, seven miles south of Tehran, Irak AjamI, Persia possessing gardens and cultivation. The plain in their vicinity is cut up by- several deep ravines. {Clerk.) KAREZ DEGEZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorassan, Persia, 32 miles from Sabzvar on the road to Mashad, situated on the border of a vast plain. It is a miserable place. {Fraser.) KARGANA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ghilan, Persia, on both banks of the Kargana Rfld, about three miles from its mouth. It is the largest in the district of Kargana Rod and the houses are scattered through the jungle and built in the usual manner . of this country : some are roofed with shingles covered with stones to keep them in their places, and the rest are thatched with rice straw and reeds. It is the winter residence of the chief, who retires to his " Yeilaks" at August, even in summer. {Fraser — Holmes.) KARGANA RuD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Ghilan, Persia, which rises in the mountains of Talish and falls into the west side of the Caspian near the village of Kargana. It is a laree stream with a wide stony bed of some 300 yards, strewed with rocks and the trunks of large trees, showing that it is a tremendous torrent in the spring. During the dry season it runs in several small rills over a nearly dry bed. At its mouth there was formerly a sturgeon fishery. At the point it is crossed by the road from the north towards Enzeli, it is said to be in some measure dangerous on account of quicksands and requires expe- rienced guides. {Fraser — Holmes.) KARGIRD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, close to Khaff. {Clerk.) KARGUSABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak AjamI between Kasvin and Tehran, the first stage from the former. {Stuart.) KARIJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 24 miles on the road to Tabrez. It is a fine village, situated at the mouth of a gorge in the mountains whence issues the Karij stream, and containing 60 houses; its gardens are well stocked with fruit trees, and the surrounding district produces barley, wheat, lentils and cotton, and there are plenty of partridges, wild sheep, hares and antelopes in the vicinity. There is an old caravanseraeshah, and the king of Persia has a shooting-box here, called Siilimania, which is embellished by some very fair paintings. {Holmes — Fastwiok.) KARIMABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, the residence of the chief of the Jariift district "'*■) 223 KAR KARPARU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, about 20 miles east of Abbassabad. It is divided into two parts, and contains some fifty houses, and pays a revenue of 60 tomams per annum. {Holmes) KARTIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the Kirman coast of Persia, south of Bandar Abbass, and inhabited almost solely by fishermen. (KemptAome.) KARUN— Lat. Long. ' Elev. A river of Khuzistan, Persia. Its principal sources are at a place called Korreng in the mountains of Zardah Koh. The springs are most abundant, and from its source the Karun is a large river. After forcing its way through lofty mountains by precipitous and narrow gorges, and receiving numerous small streams from the valleys, it is joined by its first principal tributary, tbe Ab-i-Bors, which is almost equal in size to itself. A few miles above Susan after this junction, the Karun becomes a large and rapid river. Passing through a difficult ravine it enters the valley of Susan. (It is here fordable in November, but only at one spot, and the ford a very difficult one.) Below Susan it forces its way through a most precipitous gorge, breaking with great violence over innumerable rocks which have been precipitated by the mountain torrents into the bed of the river. Here there are the remains of a magnificent bridge, the but- tresses of massive brick work are apparently of the Kayanian epoch. They rise to a considerable height from the foaming torrent, and have defied its impetuousity for ages. Even rafts cannot be floated, through this narrow and dangerous passage. The Karun continues to wind between lofty mountains, overhanging the valley of Susan Sohrab and the plain of Andaku, until it emerges into the plain of Akill by a narrow gorge ; it here receives several tributary streams, the principal of which are the Talak and the Ab-i-Shor which enter it above Loll. The river now quits the mountains, and is here a broad and tranquil stream, and would be fit for navigation if not blocked by the dam of Shustar. Here numerous canals and water-courses for irrigation have been drawn from it. The length of its course through the plains is 10 miles : it is joined by the large salt stream of Beitavand, and shortly afterwards forces its way through the gorge of Koh-i-Pedelak, a part of the range of lower limestone and sand- stone hills parallel to the great range. The cliffs rise on both sides perpen- dicularly from the river, and a road has with much labour been excavated on the left bank. Immediately above the town of Shustar, the Karun is divided into two branches ; that to the north is the original channel of the river; that to the south is the celebrated Nahr-i-Masrukan, or the artificial canal now called the Ab-i-Gargar. The ancient bed of the river flows to the west of the town of Shustar, and shortly after leaving it, a small canal has been cut which connects it with the Ab-i-Gargar below as well as above. It is fordable in all parts of its course, except during its passage round the town, being seldom above three feet in depth and not capable of being rendered deeper. It unites with the ..b-i-Gargar at Band-i-Kir, 30 miles below Shustar. At the point of separation of the old river with the Ab-i-Gargar, a dam has been thrown across its entrance, narrow open- ings being left for the passage of the water. Beyond this dam the canal flows between very lofty cliffs of sandstone. Half a mile below the dam is a second, built almost to the level of the cliffs on both sides, forming a 224 KAR, complete stoppage to the water, which, escaping through numerous passages cut laterally through the rock, falls in cataracts into the bed beneath. The level of the canal bed below this dam is considerably lower than above it : a bridge is thus formed between Shustar and the village of Boleiti, and is called the Pul Boleiti. Beyond this the Ab-i-Gargar flows into a broad deep stream, the depth being 12 to 18 feet in the lowest season, and the breadth varying from 60 to 120 yards, between steep and lofty banks, till its junction with the Karun at Band-i-Klr. From ShUstar to Hasamabad the current runs at the rate of about 5 miles an hour; below that it is not more than 2 miles. About 5 miles below Shustar the Ab-i-Gargar is nearly traversed by a dam called Mahlbazan, which is partly natural and partly artificial, and prevents the ascent of vessels to the town. Below this dam is the village pf Hasamabad, where boats employed in the trade between Shustar, Ahwaz, and Mohamrah usually unload. The entire course of this canal may be about 36 miles. The Karun is also joined at Band-i-Kir by the river of Dizful, a large stream, and after the union of these three streams the Karun becomes a noble river, exceeding in size the Tigris or the Euphrates. Its banks are well wooded, its depth is con- siderable, its current equal and moderate, and it is in fact a river ad- mirably suited to steam or other navigation. A low range of sandstone hills traverses the Karun at Ahwaz 40 miles below Band-i-Klr. It is evident that the river has forced a passage through them, and the rocks which remain on its bed form the only obstruction in its course from near Shustar to the sea. Four ridges of rock cross the Karun at Ahwaz ; the first, immediately above the castle and below-a large island in the river, has an opening which admits of vessels without any difficulty, and has nine fathoms of water, and is of considerable breadth. Through it Lieutenant Selby took steamer to Assyria, and the inhabitants of Ahwaz con- stantly track large vessels by the same passage. The second channel, which is nearly in the centre of the river, is considerably smaller, but has about the same depth of soundings ; this ridge of rocks has been taken advantage of in constructing a dam across the river, and the interstices are filled up with massive masonry, much of which now remains ; this is the celebrated Band- i-Ahwaz. The third ridge, not traversing the river, offers no obstacle to the ascent of vessels. The fourth ridge is of the same description. The river at Ahwaz is between a quarter and half a mile in breadth, and has a con- tinuous channel of above 8 feet deep in the driest part of the year. A little way below Ahwaz are the remains of a channel, by which the waters of the Shapur river are said to have entered the Karun. Seventeen miles below Ahwaz by the river the Karun still receives during the floods a contribution from the Kerkhah through a canal called Shattul-Maktuah. From Ahwaz the river runs south south-east to Kut Abdula, and as far as that place it winds very little, but beyond it is very serpentine in its windings as far as Ismailiah, 46 miles below Ahwaz : thence it runs past Idrisiah 7 miles Imam All Husen 8 miles, Rubendru Yakub 10 miles, and thence south- east 12 miles to the Hafar, and flowing through an alluvial soil is subject to much variation in its bed, but a continuous channel may be found at all times of not less than 2 fathoms in depth. Its banks from about 35 miles above Mohamrah are well wooded, and it is in every respect admirably adapted for steam navigation. From the Karun below Shustar to the Bahmeh Shir numerous canals and water-courses have been drawn. The 225 2e KAR-KAS Karun discharges itself into the sea by the Khor Bahmeh Shir, and part of its waters into the Shatt-ul- Arab by an artificial canal called the Hafar. Such are at present the only outlets of this river. The Bahmeh Shir is about 40 miles in length, and has a good navigable channnel to its junction with the sea of not less than 9 feet at low water, not less than 4 fathoms deep, being above half a mile in width. Its general course is south south-east. Its entrance is at low water during spring tides more than 3 fathoms deep, and, therefore, practicable for ships of large burden. Its banks are but little inhabited, as its water, being often mixed with the tides from the Persian Gulf, is generally salt. The canal from the Karun to the Shatt-ul-Arab, now generally called the Hafar, is about 3f miles in length, 200 to 400 yards in breadth, and a depth varying from 30 or 40 feet of water, and receives probably about three-fifths of the waters of the river. It has evidently, since the time of its construction, increased considerably in size, and must, from the nature of the soil and from the force with which the tide enters the Bahmeh Shir, operating as a check upon the free discharge of the waters of the river by that mouth, be daily enlarged. There is depth of water in this canal for vessels of any burden. On it is situated the town of Mohamrah. Its banks, like those of the Shatt-ul Arab, are clothed with palm-groves. The tide ascends in the Karun for a few miles above Riibein- ibn-Yakub. The difference in temperature between the Shatt-ul Arab and the Karun is very remarkable, Lieutenant Selby having found the former in the month of August to be 96°, while the latter, not 200 yards distant, was under 80°. The Karun is perfectly easy of navigation at all seasons for vessels drawing 4 feet of water, and admirably adapted for steam communication from the sea to within 6 miles from Shustar. Both banks of the river are abundantly wooded, and fuel could consequently be found anywhere, but the places which seem best suited for fuel stations, from their being the constant locality of Arabs, appear to be Kala Idrlsiah, 18 hours' steaming above Mohamrah; Ahwaz, 16 hours above Idrlsiah; Bandekl, 10 hours above Ahwaz; thence to Shustar is only 8 hours. It is probable that if once arrangements were perfected, river steamers, such as are now made, could easily ascend to Shustar in two days, steaming from Mohamrah. {Kinneir — Chesney Layard — Selby — Rawlinson.) KARTJSE— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, 39 miles east of Tehran and about a mile from Feshark. It is a pretty spot with cultivated land and trees round it cover- ing a considerable space. {Abbott.) KARIAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Luristan, Persia, which, rising in the Bakhtlarl mountains, falls into the Kerkhah between the confluence of the Kashghan river and the plain of Taidar. {Chesney.) KASANJAN — Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Kirman, Persia. {Malcolm.) KASHIN— Lat. 34°; Long. 51° 17'; Elev. A town in Irak Ajami, Persia, 128 miles south of Tehran, and 111 miles north of Ispahan. It is situated in a stony plain on the edge of the great salt desert which extends to the north, and the soil around it is sandy, ill-supplied with water, and presents a most uninviting appearance. It is about 3 miles in length by 1£ mile in breadth, and is surrounded by a dry 226 KAS ditch, but its walls are in such decay that probably they could not stand an hour's battering. Around it are extensive plantations of mulberry trees for silkworms, which, however, do not yield sufficient silk for the supply of its manufactures,, and the deficiency is made up from Ghllan. It is cele- brated for the excellence of its weavers, for its various manufactures of silk and cotton stuffs and velvets. Its shawls are worn and esteemed in the most remote provinces of the empire, and its flowered silks are described by Pottinger as exquisitely beautiful, being in imitation of the richest Kashmir shawls (and called Shal Kashai), of which they have all the brilliancy of color combined with the glossy appearance of the silk. But above all is Kashan esteemed for its copper-ware. The mines near Sivas supply the Kashan manufacturers with copper, which they receive by way of Arzrum and Tabrez, and which they manufacture into all sorts of utensils, and in such numbers as to supply the whole of Persia. They sell their copper- ware by the weight, one maun or 7£ lbs. of which is worth 15 reels, or about £1-10*. They are generally tinned and whitened so as to resemble silver. The most convenient article which they sell is a portable set of cooking utensils that form a nest, the different pieces of which, from 20 to 50 in number, are contrived to go all within the compass of one foot ; they are called " dekbars," and used by all travellers in Persia ; their price is from £3 to 5, and they are worthy of notice from the singularity and convenience of their contrivance. The lanterns made here are also noticeable, the top and bottom are made of copper, which is generally ornamented with small figures, devices in Persian, &c, and pierced with small holes, and has a handle. The latter is made to contain the socket for the candle, and between the two there is a serpentine wire, which, when extended, makes the lantern a yard long, more or less, according to its circumference, and over this they fix a " pir- a-ham," or cover of white wax-cloth, which reflects a considerable light when a candle is placed within. There are many spacious caravanseraes, some of which have been lately built, but the finest building in Kashan is the Medresh or College built by the King. Kashan is celebrated for the size, and venom and number of its scorpions, and " may you be stung by a scorpion of Kashan" is a common malediction in Persia. The population is about 30,000 souls. {Kiimeir Quseley — Morier — Pottinger — Malcolm — Clerk.) KASHAWAR— Lat. Long. Elev., A town in Azarbljan, Persia, on right bank of the Jagatti river above its mouth in the UriJmia Lake, and capital of the small district of Ajari. It is a small place, but has a very imposing looking fort on the summit of the hill above it. — (Rawlimon.) KASHEN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, in the slopes of the Sar-aKBagh range 25 miles north-west of Dihnan, 30 miles south-east of Khoi, and near the source of the Zab River. {Chesney.) KASHGHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. . A river of Lfiristan, Persia, which rises in two branches on the Koh-i- Chehlra Balighan at some distance beyond Khoramabad in the plain of Koh-Dasht,. and after having been joined by the united streams of Khoramabad, Kazun, and Tazin,. the main trunk runs south-west through the plain of Jaidar and over a number of precipices, forming a succession of magnificent cataracts as it struggles, through the outer rampart of the 227 KAS Zagros into the valley of the Kerkhah, some thousand feet below the hills, about 1 mile above Pul-i-Gamashan. Just below the gorge through which it enters the plain of Jaidar, the river spreads out and divides itself into two arms, thus admitting of being forded, except during a few months in the spring, when its waters are unusually swollen by the melting of the snows. When Rawlinson visited it in February, the stream, though very rapid, was not more than 3 feet deep. — {Rawlinson.') KASHKA— Lat. Long. Eley. Apparently a name for the Sahand mountain, Azarbijan, Persia, or a portion of it, as this authority mentions, crossing 10 miles from Ahar to Ardabil several ravines which come down from the Kashka range. — (Todd.) KASH KAYI— A collection of tribes of the Province of Fars, Persia, who are united under the rule of one Chief. They number 15,000 households, 3,000 of which are of the family of the Khan. They have about 2,000 cavalry and 1,000 infantry. This tribe is divided into 30 divisions, of which some are as follows : — Valkeh, Jafarbegi, Kashkuli, Shashbaliiki, Rahlmi, Ekchelu, Kohdadeh, Demirchakhmaklum, Saifikhanl, Farsimedium, and Farkhani. They are said to be descendants of a race transplanted by Hulaku from Kashgar. The wealth of this tribe is in sheep and goats, horned cattle, horses and asses, but they possess few camels. The wool of the sheep and goats is all required for the use of the tribe, who work it up into articles of clothing, camp equipage, horse coverings, and carpets. A small portion of it is of a fine white, but perhaps half that produced by the sheep is of a dirty white. The goats are chiefly black and red. Some of their sheep are of remarkable size, weighing frequently from 130 to 144 lbs. — (Pelly — Abbott) KASIMABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 13 miles north of Kashan on the Tehran, Ispahan road. — (Clerk.) KASR-I-KAJAE— Lat. Long. Elev. A favorite village built by Fateh All Shah 3 miles from Tehran in Persia. It is situated on a height near the foot of the hills, and consists of a square brick building enclosing a quadrangle, with its usual ornaments of tanks and plane trees. Brick terraces and flights of steps conduct from the palace to a large neglected garden which is spread out in the plain below. — (Stuart.) KASR-I-SHABlN— Lat. 34° 30' 6" ; Long. Elev. A village in Kirmanshah, Persia, 106 miles west of that place and 120 miles north of Baghdad. It is a small place of twenty-eight houses inhabited by Kurds, with a caravanseraishah in pretty good condition, and is situated on the side of a mountain, at the foot of which flows the Doala. There is generally nothing to be had here in the way of provisions, the place producing nothing but flints, which cover the ground six inches deep. To the east of it are the ruins of a large town, the enciente of which forms a long square of at least a league in length on its shortest front. — (Ferrier — Jones) KASVIN— Lat. 36° 12' ; Long. 49° 33' ; Elev. A town in Irak Ajami, Persia, 97 miles west-north-west of Tehran, 108 miles north-west of Kurn. It is situated at the foot of the mountains leading to Ghllan and the extremity of a fine plain, and is surrounded by 228 KAS— KAY gardens and vineyards in every direction, so that nothing is seen of the town till close to it. It is defended by towers and walls, and is of consi- derable extent said to be larger than Tehran. The bazaars are large and well supplied, and well filled with people. There are two conspicuous mosques, one called the Masjld-i-shah, begun by Aga Mahomed and finished by Fatteh Ali Shah, and another of much older date, distinguished by a large dome and two minarets of glazed blue bricks, which are now partially destroyed. The town wears the signs of evident decay in its deserted streets and ruined buildings. It is surrounded by vineyards, which extend for several miles. The vines are planted in deep parallel trenches and grow (unsupported by sticks) against the sunny slopes of the intermediate banks, and the grapes produced are said to be unsurpassed in Persia for profusion, variety, and flavour. The manufactures of this town are velvets, brocades, and "kerbas/'' a coarse cotton cloth, namads, swords, and arms, and it carries on a consi- derable trade with Ghilan. The extent of population is doubtful, but both Morier and Ouseley were told that it was inhabited by 25,000 males; probably, however, if they had said that number of souls, it would be nearer the truth, as Chesney states there to be eight thousand houses in the place. Water is a very scarce commodity at Kasvln, and the vast plain is inter- sected in every direction with water-courses (kanats) extending miles upon miles. The city is environed by vineyards and orchards to a considerable extent, the former of which yield a grape celebrated throughout Persia for the good wine it produces. The vine-dressers water their vines once in the year, which is twenty days after the festival of the Nao-Eoz, about the 10th of April; and the Vazir told us that the soil, which is clayey, is so good that the moisture it then imbibes suffices until the next irrigation. The raw produce of Kasvin is vitriol, gram, dried fruits, treacle of grapes, sheep and horses. There is a direct road to Kum from it. Kasvin was built by Shapur Zul- Aktaf, A. D. 154, and was the capital of Persia for a time. The inhabitants of Kasvin are chiefly descended from those Turkish tribes which have long pastured their flocks in the plains in the vicinity. They almost all either cultivate the soil, or employ themselves in carrying on commerce with the shores of the Caspian. These habits of life render them hardy and robust, and they are remarkable for having preserved the rude and ungovernable spirit of their ancestors. Among its other privileges, Kasvin has always boasted of one of a very extraordinary nature; it may be termed the right of insurrection, or " luti bazaar," which they resort to in cases of violence and oppression. The lower orders act on these occasions under the direction of their magistrates, who seldom proceed to this extremity except when they have no hope of relief from any other proceeding. (Kinneir — Ouseley — Morier — Chesney — Shell — Stuart — Holmes — Malcolm— Eastwick — Abbott — Fraser.) KAUKAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khemseh district of Persia on the banks of the Kizl Ozan river above the village of VenI Sard. {Chesney.) KAYN— Lat. Long. Elev. See Ghayn. 229 KAZ— KEB KAZANCHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Irak Ajami, Persia, rising in the Elburz range. It crosses the Tehran road from Firoz Koh at six miles from that place. (Hastwick.) KAZAWAR— Lat. _ Long. Elev. A river of Persia, which rises in the south slopes of the mountains of Ardelan, and, flowing south, falls into the Kerkhah, about 4 miles above Kirmanshah. {Kinneir-.) K AZIRtJN— Lat. 29° 37' ; Long. 51° 43' ; Elev. 2,800. A town in Fars, Persia, 70 miles west of Shiraz and 95 miles north of Bus- hahr. It is situated in a valley 30 miles long and 7 or 8 broad, bounded on the north by a salt lake and fertilized by a number of rivulets of excellent water. The town is divided into the upper and lower and covers a considerable space. The buildings are of stone and mortar, and have an appearance of solidity and neatness which is wanting in mud habitations ; they are also frequently stuccoed. Many of them are fortified, possessing parapets and loopholes for musketeers. Excepting in size the place hardly deserves the name of a town, as it is more properly speaking a conjunction of two large villages, and possesses only about 100 miserable-looking shops. The situation is the north-west side of a well-cultivated vale on a slight rise. Palms, walnut, and orange and lemon trees are nearly the only verdure it possesses. There is nothing of interest to be seen in the place. The climate is warmer than that of Shiraz, but not oppressively so, and the inhabitants boast that it is so fine that fruits of cold and hot climates (sardsar and garmsar) flourish side by side. Excellent opium is produced in the villages around, obtained from the white poppy. The price is about 7 rupees per 16. The population is variously stated at 4,000 souls and 1,500 to 2,000 families. Provisions are abundant here, and the valley abounds in forage, and is said to be very healthy except in the autumn months. Water is supplied principally from water-courses (kanats). It is noteworthy that KazlrQn is the home of" most of the muleteers of Southern Persia. Supplies are here abundant, or readily obtained, and fuel, charcoal, and fire-wood are also procurable. Warm felts, coarse carpets, hair ropes for draught cattle, pack-saddles for ditto, and an easy shoe for hill-marching form the manufactures of the place. Blacksmiths, farriers, leather-dress- ers, and tent-makers are to be found here and in the vicinity. Timber, called safidar, and also plane and walnut trees, are procurable. Saltpetre is found in the neighbourhood, and powder might be made here with little labor. Snow is collected in the mountains to the north-east of the town, and is brought down for summer use. Numbers of mules and many good horses could be procured from the nomad tribes in the neighbourhood. The district of Kazlrun pays revenue of^ 25,000 tomans. This place is recommended as a suitable site for a depot of a force advancing against Shiraz from the sea-coast. (Kinneir — MonteitA — Clerk — Abbott — St. John— Felly Jones.) KEBIR KOH— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of mountains which bound the Persian district of Luristan on the south, forming the southern watershed of the Kerkhah and the northern boundary of the Province of Baghdad. It is probably a spur from the Bakhtiari mountains, and is interspersed with many pleasant valleys well supplied with springs of pure water. The greater part of the limestone of which it is composed is very fossiliferous. {Layard). 230 KEH— KEN KEHNC— Lat. Long. Elev. A village and fort in Kirman, Persia, south of Bam. The fort is situated on a small hill, about 200 feet above the plain, at the commence- ment of a broad valley extending east and west. The defences consist of a double line of wall, built partly of stone and partly of earth, which have been a good deal impaired by earthquakes, said to be of frequent occurrence there, and about 250 or 300 huts scattered along the base of the mound ; these habitations are formed of the branches of the palm tree stripped of their leaves and fastened together in bundles for uprights ; strong reeds are bound horizontally to these, and a close matting cover the whole. It is the chief place of the district of Rudbar. (Kimeir — Abbott.) KEHNtJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in district of Yezd, Persia, one mile west of that place. (Einneir — Abbott.) KELEKOWA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Persian Kurdistan, situated about 55 miles north-north-west of Sehna. It is a large village with a good deal of cultivation. The climate here in summer is delightfully cool, but the winter is severe. It is in the district of Hobetu. [Rich.) KELISEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 18 miles on the road from Bayazid to Tabrez. It was formerly peopled by Armenians, but they have now crossed the Russian frontier, and their place has been partially supplied by Persian emi- grants from Erivan. The stone walls of the church of this place are in tolerable repair. {Stewart) KELTJN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak, Persia, 63 miles east of Tehran. It consists of many rows of houses built on a rocky eminence, one above another, the one below form- ing a terrace for that above it. It is remarkable for the fine honey pro- duced, and the cattle are very fine. The women here wear cloaks made of material much resembling Scotch plaids. (Ouseley.) KEMIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 57 miles north -north-east of Shiraz. It is a picturesque-looking place, having gardens and vineyards round it. (Ouseley) KENN— Lat. 26° 33' 1" ; Long. 53° 54' 45", i. e., N. E. point. An island in the Persian Gulf off the coast of LuristSn, from which it is separated by a channel 5 miles wide. I cannot do better than here give the detailed description of the island by Lieutenant Grrubb, Indian Navy, and Captain Remon, Bombay- Engineers: — " Having lately proceeded to the island of Kenn, we have the honor to submit the following report, in which the several quarters of the island are separately described, as represented in the accompanying sketch, namely — " (a.) — The west-north-west and south-west sides. — The part contains three villages, built near date plantations ; one is near the south-west point, and is called Bank ; another at the north-west, Suffeel ; the third does not appear to bear any name, and is about midway between the other two, the distance ■ between these two extremes being nearly three and a quarter miles. " These villages are provided with wells, which supply the population, and also irrigate the grain fields and date trees. Some of the water is good, the remainder is indifferent and mostly brackish. 231 KEN " The country for about three miles in their vicinity is moderately eleva- ted above the sea, and nearly level, as it ascends very gradually from the sea-coast to the central and higher part of the island. It is partially covered with trees, which are more numerous inland, and the ground is also clearer on the coast, having only small tufts of coarse grass, the inland part being rocky and stony. " The coast is of a bluff and rocky nature, with some small sandy bays, but being bounded by a rocky shelf, dry in many places at low water, and which extends not less than a quarter of a mile, tolerable landing is afforded in these bays at high-water only for light boats, and that in moderate weather. " There is no good anchorage for ships off this part of the island, the bottom being coarse sand with patches of coral. It is exposed to a heavy swell during a moderate north-west wind, but may be safe to approach to eight or ten fathoms, a mile and a quarter, or a mile and a half off shore. " (b.) — The north side. — This quarter comprises the ground between the villages of Suffeel and Dey, distant three and a quarter miles. Almost midway, but nearer to the latter, are the ruins of a considerable town, said to have been built by the Portuguese. " In regard to water, the description given of it at Suffeel applies to that procured at the village of Dey. " The country here is also nearly similar to that on the west side, except that it is a little more elevated near Suffeel. " The coast is also bluff and rocky, with a few sandy bays, the rocky shelf still continuing round it, but having deeper water on it. There is tolerably good landing at low water in the bays abovementioned during moderate weather. " The anchorage for ships is in six fathoms, sandy bottom about one mile off shore, but it is not sheltered from the prevailing westerly winds. " (c.) — The north-east and eastern sides. — There are no inhabitants in this quarter, but a few ruins of an old village are visible on the east side. " There are a number of wells in the low ground, the water of which is at this time brackish. " The elevated part of the island commences near this coast, and the summit of it is extremely rocky and irregular ground. The space between it and the beach is low and sandy ; it is practically covered with trees as on the other sides. " Nearly the whole of this coast has a fine sandy beach ; the anchorage for ships is in six and seven fathoms, sandy bottom, one mile off shore, and is well sheltered except from easterly winds. " (d.) — The south side. — This side is uninhabited just now, but there are some ruins and a small date grove near the east point, and also a few houses, in which are lodged the cattle that are occasionally grazing there near the centre of the south coast. " There are a few wells at these two places with pretty good water, owing, probably, to its not having been much drawn, there being no irrigation carried on, and the cattle therefore alone supplied with it. " The country is generally level, and is nearly the same on the western part, except that it is more stony and in some places more elevated, especially in the centre before alluded to. The whole of the ground is interspersed with trees and bushes. The coast is similar to that on the north side. 232 KEN— KER " The anchorage for ships is in six fathoms, sand three quarters of a mile or a mile off shore, and, though exposed to south-east winds, is safer than that on the other sides of the island, from the circumstance of its not being a lee-shore during any of the prevailing winds. " In consequence of the whole being quite an open and exposed shore, without any harbours to shelter boats or ships, great inconvenience is likely to arise from the difficulty of communication during strong or even moderate breezes blowing directly on the shore, which would cause much surf on it, and, considering the badness of the anchorage ground, would also often oblige them to take shelter under the lee-sides of the island. " Having experienced, during our stay at the island, the variable quality of the water in the wells, we feel a doubt whether any of it would continue good during the whole season. " Almost every part of the beach of the island is covered with a quantity of sea-weed, and, from its long exposure, we found a very offensive effluvium emitted from it. Prom the abundance of it on the rocky shelf which surrounds the coast, it will continually be washed up by the sea, and, it is presumed, must prove highly prejudicial to health, unless removed when necessary." [Kinneir — Taylor — Brucks — Semon — Grubb) . KERAH— See Kerkhah. KERKHAH— Lat. . Long. Elev. A river of Persia, which rises in three branches, all springing considerably east of Kirmanshah. The first and most inconsiderable has its commence- ment abput 25 miles west of Hamadan. The second has three springs on the side of mount Elvand, 6 or 8 miles south of that place. The latter runs south-westward till it meets the former in the plain of Maran, about 10 miles south-west of Kangawar; and at a spot nearly 10 miles south of that place, it is joined by the third or chief branch of the Kerkhah, which comes from the Guran mountains by a north-west course of about 40 miles. The trunk of the three united streams, under the name of the Gamasab river (of which the second abovementioned may, from its northern and central position, be considered as the main branch), winds for nearly 30 miles in a general westerly direction to Bisutin, chiefly along the Guran mountains. At this celebrated spot the Gamasab receives the Ab-i-Denawar coming from the north, and again, after a course of about 12 miles nearly south-west, another stream, called the Kara Su, passing through Kirman- shah at about 20 miles north-north-west of that place. The direction of the main trunk is nearly south, until it receives, at a few miles from thence, a tributary coming from the Guran mountains by a westerly course, and passing by the tomb of Baba Buzurg. Below this junction, under the name of Kara Su, it runs south by west for nearly 60 miles, traversing the Kohi Tourdulan and plain of Tehran in the district of Pesh Koh, and, finally, through the great chain of the Zagros to the ruins of Shahri Rudbar, which are situated at its confluence with the river of Kirrind. This is a very considerable stream, which rises close to the gates of Zagros, and has a tortuous course of nearly 100 miles in a general south-east direction. In the latter part of its course, it forces its way through the Zagros, by a tremendous gorge, into the plain of Zangawan, being then at a distance of about 12 miles east of the ruins of Slrwan. From 233 2f KER thence it takes the name of Ab-i-Sirwan, as it passes in a south-south-east direction through the valley of Rudbar, being increased almost at the junction by the Zangawan, the Ab-i-Sirwan, and two other streams, all of which come from the west. The united waters of Kara Sn and Ab-i-Sirwan, now called the Kerkhah, follow the Zagros in a south-south-east direction for about 30 miles, through the plains of Lort and Saemarah as far as Pul-i-Gamashan. At 8 miles east of the ruins of Saemarah, and one mile above the bridge, the Kerkhah is joined on the north-east side by the Khasghan, a large stream which rises in two branches on the Kohi-chihel Na BalighSn, at some distance beyond Khoramabad in the plain of Kohdasht, and, after being joined by the united streams of Khoramabad, Kayun, and Tayin, the main trunk runs south-westward, through the plain of Jaidar and over a number of precipices, forming a succession of magnificent cataracts, as it struggles through the outer rampart of the Zagros into the valley of the Kerkhah, some thousand feet below the hills. At about 22f miles south-east of the bridge of Gamashan, the Kerkhah receives the Ab-i-Garm, a smaller stream coming from the north ; and at about 33| miles south-east from thence is Pul-i-Tang, a very remarkable bridge over a chasm, which is here 150 feet deep, and so narrow that a Kurd actually leaped across it in the presence of Major Rawlinson. Having overcome this obstacle, the river resumes its ordinary size ; and 8 miles lower it is joined by the Ab-i Zal, which enters it after a course of about 50 miles from its source in the fastnesses of the Kal-i-Asped and Anarahud. The Kerkhah leaves the mountains west of Dizful within 10 miles of that river. At this spot it is a rapid mountain stream, and at its entrance into the plain it was formerly crossed by a bridge, the remains of which are called Pul Pae. Immediately below this bridge the river is fordable during summer, and this ford is generally used by horsemen. It is, however, difficult owing to the rapidity of the current. Their united streams now quit the direction of Dizfttl, and take a more southerly course for about 40 miles to the ruins of Iwani Kerkah. At Iwani Kerkah, the river divides itself into four branches, and is easily fordable in summer and autumn. A little south of this spot, where there are the remains of a bridge, and at one mile and a half from the celebrated ruins of ancient Sus, the Kerkhah bends a little west of south, and continues in this direction through the rich plain of Khuzistan, passing through the extensive marshes which surround Hawizah ; from thence it winds south-west and falls into the Shatt-ul-Arab, 5 miles below Kurnah, after a course of upwards of 500 miles. A little way on the eastern side of the Kerkhah is the Shapur, or Shawer, which is supposed to rise in the rich plains between that river and the Ab-i Dizful, at about 10 miles north of StJs ; and instead of enter- ing the Karim below Ahwaz, as in the earliest times, or about one mile and a half below Wais, as is said to have been the case at a later period, it makes its way, according to the accounts of the natives, through marshes, immediately into the upper part of the river Diz. Below Iwani the banks of the river are thickly wooded, and probably the river would here be navigable for vessels of small burden j at all events, it might be rendered so as far up as Hawizah. 234 KER— KHA The water of the Kerkhah in the upper part of its course is celebrated for its purity, but below Hawizah it receives much stagnant water from marshes. (Rawlinson — Layard — Chesney.) KERSAN— Lat. Long. Elev. See Ab-i-Bors. KESHIT— Lat. Long. Elev. A place apparently in the Khubbes district, Persia. Abbott mentions that much henna is grown here, but gives no clue as to its situation. (Abbott) KESOUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ghllan, Persia, on the left bank of the Sufedrtid, 10 miles east of Resht. (Holmes.) KHABCSHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village of the Kurdish district of Khorasan, Persia. It is celebrated for a fine breed of horses reared in its abundant pastures. (Chesney — Malcolm.) KHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ears, Persia, on the shore of the lake of Nesriz. It is a small place, being merely two or three clusters of mean houses. (Ouseley.) KHAERABID— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Yezd district, Persia, about 2 miles south-west of Yezd, sur- rounded by gardens. (Kinneir — Abbott.) KHAERABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ears, Persia, 27 miles from Earg and 9 miles from Darab, on the road between them. It is a miserable village. No supplies are here obtainable, but must be procured from Darab ; the water, however, is good from a "kanat." (Jones.) KHAERABID.— Lat. Long. Elev. A village and fort in Kirman, Persia, 72 miles north-west of Kum and 65 miles east of lake Neyriz. It is a wretched place, consisting of a clay-built fort and about 15 hovels, in which 25 families of Biloche were crowded. (Kinneir — Abbott.) KHAEROMEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 52 miles east of Shiraz, near the extreme south-west corner of the lake of Neyriz, situated on and about a mound. (Kinneir — Abbott.) KHAE— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khorasan, Persia, 112 miles west of Herat and 88 miles south- east of Turbat-i-Haidarl. It is a small place, situated immediately under a range of bare hills well supplied with grain and water, and having much cultivation and many gardens in its vicinity. The town is walled, and has a ditch and a citadel, is supplied with water by ducts from the hills, and contains about 500 houses. It is the seat of the Chief of the Taimuri Hazaras, and pays a yearly revenue of £500, and supplies 200 men to the Persian army. During the four summer months it blows here a gale of wind day and night by which the wind-mills are turned. The district of Khaf is divided into Bala Khaf and Khaf Pain. It is held under a sort of hereditary feudal tenure of the Shah by the tribe of Taimurls, who were settled here by Ahmad Shah Durani. (Christie — Connolly — Clerk — Petty.) 235 KHA KHAFR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, east of Shiraz. Its fruits are very good, and large quantities of lime-juice are exported thence to Shiraz. It has some date trees, and produces rice, wheat, and barley. {Petty) KHAFR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 51 miles from Shiraz, on the road to Lur by Jahrurn. It is 123 miles from Lur; it has a fortalice and many gardens; its houses are of masonry. Some fruit and good water are procurable here. {Jones.) KHAJEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on right bank of the Ajichai, about 20 miles north-west of Tabriz. It is situated on a hill, and has a mud wall running on one side of it. The water here is very brackish from all the soil of this neighbourhood being impregnated with salt. {Morier.) KHALEJ— A tribe who inhabit a portion of the government of Save in Persia. {Kinneir — Abbott.) KHALEJISTAN— See Save. {Kinneir — Abbott.) KHALFABID— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on right bank of the Jarahi river above Fellahiah. It is the most northern village of the Chab Arabs on this river. (Layard.) KHALIFA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Hashtrud district, Azarbijan, Persia, 15 miles from Sareskand. Monteith describes it as a " fine" place. {Monteith.) KHALILABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 9 miles west of Turshez, situated on a sterile plain. It contains about 100 dwellings. On the north of the road there is a ruined, walled, but unoceupied village of the same name. There is a ruined village to the right of the road towards Shahrud ; but the one to the left is that inhabited at present containing about 100 dwellings. {Clerk!) KHALKAL— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Azarbijan, Persia, situated between the Boztagh and the Kizl Ozan river, and which stretches for a considerable distance on both banks of that river. It is very high and mountainous, but not so full of stones and rocks as many of the districts of the Elburz range. Its mountains, though very lofty, are neither very abrupt nor precipitous, and the valleys, though some- times narrow at the bottom, spread out above, so that the sides and bosoms of the hills which form them afford a large space capable of cultivation. Even the loftier parts of the mountains are seen covered with ' daimieh' cultii vation, that is, corn raised by the natural rain and moisture of the sol- without irrigation. This humidity is derived from its own elevation and vicinity to Ghllan, and the clouds and vapours of the Caspian sea : some of the valleys are broad and comprehend extensive flats. This district is con- sidered the granary of Azarbijan, and its soil is for the best part a rich dark loam. It is not, however, exclusively an agricultural district. Not only are the villagers possessed of large flocks and herds, but the ' yeilaks' and ' kishlaks', unattached to the large settled villages, are pastured by the flocks of 236 KHA nomadic tribes, which produce a vast quantity of butter and wool besides feeding their owners. The peasantry of this district appear to be everywhere thriving and comfortable, and the villages, of which there are nearly 150, are large, with a look of prosperity, finely situated and surrounded with gardens and orchards. It is said that there is a lead mine, a sulphur mine, and a copper mine in this district. The revenue of the district is 50,000 tomans. {Monteith — Morier — Fraser.) KHAMAS— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khalkhal district of Azarbijan, Persia, near the source of the Shahrud river. It is a fine large thriving village prettily situated. Most of the villagers are muleteers. {Fraser.) KHAMCHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in the district of Khemseh, Irak Ajami, Persia, over the range which "forms the southern watershed of the Kizl Ozan, and leading from Jarom to the high table-land of Zanjan and Sultania, but not considered so good as the Ak Gedak pass. (Bawlinson.) KHAMEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Mallayer district of Irak Ajami, Persia, 98 miles from Ispahan, and 147 miles from Kirmanshah, on the road between them. It has a few gardens, and supplies can be procured in small quantities, and water is obtained from springs. {M. S. Route) KHAMIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the coast of Luristan, nearly opposite Laft, on the island of Kishm. It has a fort and some 400 or 500 inhabitants, and is described as a cluster of flat oblong stone-boxes round a tumble-down stone fort with a fringe of temporary date huts. It has several boats of various sizes. Fish, with dates and a little coarse barley bread, constitute the main food of the people. The fish most common and most relished is a large sort of mullet : soles and pombret are caught, but do not seem to be much appre- ciated ; these are " caught by means of a series of slight fishing stakes, fixed at low water-mark, and formed of strips of the date leaves neatly tied together. About 3i miles from this place are some sulphur mines dug in the side of a hill at some height on its seaward face and pierced into the strata in long irregular galleries. The ore is brought out in small pieces, which are piled conically in kilns ; these are ignited, and the sulphur falls i through an aperture in a receptacle immediately below the centre of the \ kiln, where it is crystallized, leaving a conical refuse of white lime or gypsum. ^-The sulphur diggings are farmed by Maskat and sub-let to a Shekh for 4,100 kerans. The Shekh further pays a sum of 2,400 kerans in presents to the Persian authorities. The out-turn of sulphur varies from 60,000 to 90,000 mauns of 9 lbs. The lime is said to be of excellent quality, and fetches about Its. 2 for 1,000 mauns of 9 lbs. when delivered on the sea-shore. The Shekh re-lets the diggings in numerous sections, and his own profit amounts to about one " keran" on the Delhi " maun" of 28 lbs. of sulphur. {Felly) KHANABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A'village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 1 25 miles on the road from Hamadan to Tehran, from which it is distant 50 miles. It has two hundred hearths, and its water is very brackish. (Ferrier.) 237 KHA KHANABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kulbar district, Fars, Persia, 32 miles east of Shiraz. (Kinneir —Abbott) KHANA-I-ZANIAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 26 miles west of Shiraz, on the Bushahr road. It consists of only 12 houses on the banks of a fine stream, which is here a tributary of the Karabach river. Provisions are scarce here, but firewood is plentiful, and the water of the stream is excellent. There is a caravan- serae here. Pelly thinks this the most suitable spot between Bushahr and Shiraz for the cantonment of European troops, as it is some hundred feet higher than Shiraz, and the situation is open and well-watered. The small plain on which it is situated is mostly cultivated and enclosed in every side by low hills. From 5,000 to 8,000 men might easily encamp on the plain and along the banks of the river, the bed of which is broad and full of jungle. Taylor mentions that in May there was ice at this place. (Clerk — Jones — Pelly — Taylor — St. John) KHANAHT7DI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, about 56 miles south-east of Shahrud. It consists of about 200 dwellings, with a little cultivation and good water (Clerk.) KHANAKA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, about 25 miles north of Khoi on the road to Nakshivan. (Morier.) KHANA KAHDAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 68 miles from Shiraz, on the road to Lar (by Jahrilm), from which it is 105 miles distant. It has a fortalice surrounded by a few pomegranate and other trees. Water is obtained from a small stream. (Jones.) KHANEH AMRE— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 8 miles west of Syadabad in the district of Sarjan and nearly uninhabited. (Kinneir — Abbott.) KHANEH KIRD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the province of Fars, Persia, on the south shore of the lake of Neyriz or Bakhtegan, 75 miles east of ShlrSz, and consisting only of a tower, a ruined caravanserae, and a well. (Kinneir — Abbott.) KHANEH PANJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Yezd district, Persia, about 65 miles east of Yezd, and 12 miles west of Bafk. There is a small caravanserae here, and a deep covered cistern for rain water The plain on which it is situated is quite deserted, and its well water is too salt to drink; when formerly a guard was stationed there, water for their use was brought from Bafk. (Kinneir Abbott) . KHANIAH — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, on the east shore of Lake ETramia, about 16 miles from Deh Kurgan and 53 miles south-south-west of Tabrez. It lies on the margin of the lake, and near it are some springs. (Mianon ) KHAN KURGHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting place in Fars, Persia, 137 miles from Shiraz, on the road to Ispahan, from which it is 144 miles distant. There is no village or inhabit- ants here, but there is a loopholed serae, which would make a good defensive post. (Taylor.) 238 KHA KHAN MAHAMADl— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia. It belongs to Afshars. {Abbott.) KHAN RUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of the Talish district of Azarbljan, Persia. It is a clear shallow stream about 20 yards broad and with a sand bank at its mouth. (Holmes.) KHAR— Lat. Long. Elev. An extensive plain in Irak Ajami, 35 miles east of Tehran. Clerk says the plain is quite a desert and uninhabited, has no vegetation, and is encrusted with salt. But Holmes says it is well watered by numerous canals cut from a stream called Delicnai and is exceedingly fertile, producing great quantities of wheat, barley, and a little rice and cotton; and in this Eastwick agrees with him, as also does Pelly, who says that Tehran is largely supplied with grain and vegetables from it. The usual revenue of the district is about 6,000 tomans and 6,000 kharwars of grain. (Clerk — Holmes.) KHAE-I-SHUTAE, ZAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, inhabited principally by the Gulgirdi branch of the Janeki tribe, and situated in a small plain and lying between Taulah and Gulgird. (DeBode.) KHARON— Lat. 26° 54'; Long. 56° 58' 30" ; Elev. A village on the coast of Kirman, Persia, south of Minab. The soundings from the Minab river to this place are regular, from 4 to 8 fathoms off the edge of the flat, which extends 2 miles off shore. (Brucks.) KHARAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 130 miles east of Shiraz. It is a neat village and has a good bazaar, which affords abundant supplies. It is situated in a picturesque and romantic country, consisting of low and luxuriant vallies or plains intersected and separated by ranges of low mountains, green to their very summits with beautiful turf. (Totting er.) KHARZAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khemseh district, Persia, 32 miles east from Kazvin, on the Tehran road. It has 1 5 houses. (Eastwick.) KHASAMABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the left bank of the Ab-i-Gargar, about 5 miles below Shustar. Boats trading to and from Shustar load and unload at this place, their cargoes being conveyed across by land carriage. (Selby.) KHATUNABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, about 25 miles east of Tehran. It contains about 50 hovels and is extremely warm in summer. (Eastwick.) KHATUNABAD— Lat. Long Elev. A village in the Garmrud district of Azarbljan, Persia, 18 miles on the road between Seraskand and Miana, from which it is distant about 20 miles. (Morier.) KHAWAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in the district of Luristan, Persia, inhabited by the Luri Kuchaks. (Chesney.) KHANRIZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 42 miles from Bushahr, 92 miles from Firozabad, on the road between them. It has a fort and 900 huts, and pays a revenue of 4,000 tomans. Water is procured from a stream and wells. (Pelly.) 239 600 „ Turks. 150 „ 200 „ 150 „ 200 „ 1,500 „ KHE— KHO KHELLOKH— A tribe of Fars, Persia, under the authority of the II Khan of that province. No mention is made of their number or locality. (Pelk/.) KHEMSEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Irak Ajami, Persia, bounded north and west by the Kizl Ozan, east by the district of Kasvin, and south by Ardelan. The capital town is Zanjan. The tribes who inhabit Khemseh are as follows : — Germs, a large tribe of Turks ... 4,000 to 5,000 houses. Shahsevan-i-Afshar ... ... 2,500 tents of Turks. Beshvand ... ... ... 300 „ Leks. Khodabandelu Dodangeh ZulKadr Mukadm Afshar Kurtbeglu All the tribes of Khemseh live in houses in winter, the cold being severe. In summer they live in tents and do not wander far. (SMel.) KHIR—Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, on south bank of the lake of Neyriz and 100 miles east of Shlraz. It is described as a ruinous-looking place, being exposed to the plundering excursions of the Kashae tribe. (Kinneir — Abbott.) KHITAR— A small free tribe who inhabit the district of Rudbar in Kirman, Persia. Their principal claim to notice seems to be their propensity of prostituting their females, even the married ones, and openly living on this traffic. {Kinneir — Abbott.) KHOI— Lat. 38°37'; Long. 4515'; ^ Elev. A town in Azarbijan, Persia, 77 miles north-west of Tabrez, situated in a rich and well cultivated valley. There is no town in Persia better built or more beautiful than Khoi. It is surrounded by a double enceinte of mud fortifications, both in a sad state of decay and absolutely useless against European artillery. The outer enceinte consists of a line of curtains, redans, and bastions, with a glacis, ditch, and covered way. The inner is a high wall with flanking towers, the space between which is occupied by gardens and hovels ; streams of water run through the principal streets of the town, and rows of willow trees are planted inside them. The town is entered by two gates. Most of the inhabited houses are built of mud, and their architecture presents much analogy to that of Russian Armenia. The bazaars of Khoi are the finest in Persia, except those at Shlraz. They are substantially built of brick and are lofty and capacious. The ceiling is a succession of arched domes lighted by square holes at the top. The princi- pal alley is occupied by cap-makers, another by sellers of cloths and linen ; worsted sock-makers and coppersmiths have likewise extensive quarters. Khoi is celebrated for the two latter articles ; the worsted socks are striped and variegated with many colours. The principal merchants have small rooms and shops in the caravanseraes. The town is said to contain between 4,000 and 7,000 families, of whom 100 inhabiting a distinct suburb are Armenians. The valley of Khoi is nearly oval, about 15 miles in length and 10 miles in breadth, and is surrounded by mountains, which, though unadorned with 240 KIIO wood, are beautiful in their shapes and distances. It is for richness of cultivation, water, pasture, and population not to be surpassed by any spot of similar extent in Persia. It produces great quantities of corn, fender, cotton, and rice. The soil is so stiff that it requires sometimes even 10 pairs of buffaloes to drag the plough-share through it. Most of the villages are peopled by Armenians. Khoi is the capital of a rich and extensive dis- trict, and the emporium of a considerable trade carried on between Turkey and Persia. The number of people at Khoi affected with ophthalmia is particularly remarkable. Cataract, too, is peculiarly prevalent, and it is probable that on an average every tenth person suffers from inflammation of the eyes. Wagner says the table-land of Khoi is 60 miles in length, almost equalling that of Arzrum in its dimensions. Its system of natural drainage, and its natural fertility, are inferior to those of the Armenian high lands, but the ingenuity and industry of the inhabitants, who are almost a match for Englishmen in agriculture and horticulture, amply compensate for other deficiencies. Dams and other artificial channels divert the waters of the streams in all directions, especially near populous villages, and the natural aridity of the plain is relieved by a series of verdant oases. The. gardens and fields yield abundant crops, wherever human industry succeeds in irrigating the land, but the plain would be a desert without this distribution of water. The table-land of Khoi presents a very inviting appearance to the eye of a traveller just arrived from the barren highlands of Armenia. The eye is relieved by the numerous gardens and shrubberies surrounding the different villages like a green curtain, and decorating the little houses with natural verandahs. The verdant meadows and artificial rivulets are fringed with silver poplars, and the eye is gratified also by the beauty and diversity of the fruit trees, including apple, pear, apricot, cherry, walnut, and especially mulberry trees. The latter is generally a large white fruit, and exceeds in flavour any others to be got in other countries. Most European vegetables are raised in the gardens surrounding Khoi, which is likewise encompassed by a complete zone of flower-beds. Wheat and barley are the predominant cereals of the district. The plain of Khoi is celebrated for a battle fought in 1514 between Shah Ismail of Persia and Selim the First, in which 30,000 Persians are said to have encountered 300,000 Turks. The town and fortifications of Khoi surrendered to the Russians in the war of 1827-28 without fighting, and the district was held by a garrison of 3,000 Russian troops under General Penkratieff, as a guarantee for the payment of the indemnity de- manded by Russia. (Kinneir — Morier — Chesney — Stuart — Fraser.) KHOJA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 22 miles north-east of Tabrez. It is a small place seated on two small hillocks beside a salt stream, the Aji Chai. It contains about 100 houses and 300 inhabitants. A great part of the plain in which it is situated is cultivated, and appears to be fertile ; barley and wheat are produced, and it is said the soil returns twenty-fold. The houses are of mud and are all on the ground floor. In the interior the walls have recesses which answer the purpose of open cupboards ; the roofs are flat formed, of cross beams and dried bushes covered with earth. It possesses one large mosque. Carpets are made here. [Mi.gnon — Holmes) . 241 2 g KHO KHOJAHVAND— A branch of the great Lek tribe of Persia, who are dispersed all over the country, but principally inhabit the neighbourhood of Kasvin and the provinces of Fars and Mazanderan. Some 5,000 of them reside in Tenna- corben and Kalaristak in the latter province. The Khojahvands are nomadic and speak the Turkish language. They came originally from Luristan and Ardelan. {Morier — Holmes) KHOJEH KER— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of the Talish district of Azarbijan, Persia. It is a clear shallow stream about 20 yards broad and with a sand bank at its mouth. [Holmes). KHOMORLU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, about 7 miles south of the Aras, on the road from Shlsha in Karabagh to Ahar. It is situated on a deep ravine between steep calcareous and barren mountains. The inhabitants who dwell in wretched hovels scooped in the ground are notorious plunderers and assassins and excessively poor. (Mignon) . KHONSAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 116 miles east of Shiraz. Pottinger describes it as without exception the most beautiful spot he met with in any quarter of Persia. A brook runs through the valley, in which are fields of wheat and rice, and flocks of goats and sheep graze on the heights above. {Pottinger) . KHONSAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Irak Ajami, Persia, 92 miles west-north-west of Ispahan, on the Hamadan road. It lies chiefly at the bottom of a ravine at the base of the mountains, which here approach so close that the houses take up all the space between them. Each house is separate and surrounded by its own garden, and the town, which is only connected by means of its planta- tions, is about 6 miles in length and not more than quarter of a mile in breadth. The hills afford an ample supply of water, and the appearance of the black and barren rocks, without a particle of vegetation on them, hanging over these gardens, forms a contrast with the luxuriant and varie- gated foliage of the plantation which can hardly be imagined by a person who has never visited this little paradise. Khonsar contains 2,500 houses, and yields an annual revenue of 5,000 tomans exclusive of the "sadir," which generally consists of dried fruits and a kind of cotton chintz. No corn of any kind is grown in the valley, but the fruit is so abundant that it alone enables the inhabitants to procure every kind of necessary article and convenience in return for it. A kind of cider is made of the apples, but it will not keep above a month. The women of this place are celebrated for their beauty and vivacity. It is very cool in summer here, but the cold is probably exceedingly rigorous in winter, on which account perhaps the ravine was selected as the site of the town. (Kinneir Skiel ) KHORAMABAD— Lat. 38° 82'; Long. 47° 48'; Elev The capital town of Luristan, Persia, 138 miles west-north-west of Ispahan, 117 miles south-east of Kirmanshah, 98 miles south-east of Hamadan, and 6 stages north of Dizful. There is a fort here which occupies the crest of an isolated rock rising in the centre of a precipitous pass, and the town is on the south-west face near the commencement of a rich plain The Vali of Luristan resides here. The town is situated at the foot of a mountain and m a narrow valley, through which flows a broad rapid river. The town 242 KHO is small and protected by a fort, sufficiently strong to deride the efforts of a Persian army. The fort is built in a conical hill in a centre of the town which is connected with the gardens on the opposite side of the valley by a bridge of 28 arches thrown all on the river. Khoramabad is a singular place. A range of rocky hills stretching across the plain in the usual direction of north-west and south-east has been suddenly broken off to admit the passage of the river Kashghan for the space of about three-fourths of a mile, leaving in the centre of the open space a solitary rock nearly 1,000 yards in circumference ; the rock is very steep, and near its summit is a most copious spring. This is the fort of Khoram- abad. It is surrounded by a double wall at the base, and the summit where the palace is built is also very strongly defended. The fort mounts eight guns. The palace is a very elegant building. A magnificent reservoir 60 yards by 40, which is fed by the spring, has been formed within it, and there is also a garden of some extent. The fort contains exclusively the palace and its dependent buildings. The modern town, which is small, containing not more than 1,000 houses, is built below the fort on its south-west face. The river, a broad shallow stream, passes along to the south-east of the fort and town ; the banks are covered with gardens, and among these are to be seen the remains of the old town, the capital of the Governors (Atabegs) of Lurl Kuchak. A lofty brick minaret of the class peculiar to the Seljukian ages is chiefly conspicuous. Supplies and water plentiful here. (Frederick — Ghesney — Kinneir — Bawlinson— — Jones.) KHOBAMABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, 141 miles north of Tehran. It is a large village, the capital of the district of Tuna Kaban. Its houses are scattered through the thicket. Salmon is abundant here in the Mlran or Sihhezar river, which falls into the Caspian 1£ miles from the village. (Shiel.) KHOBAMDARA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khemseh district of Persia, about 24 miles east of Sultania". It is surrounded with trees and gardens, and has a fine stream of running water. (Morier.) KHORAMADARA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 32 miles west-north-west of Kasvin. It is a large village situated in a valley in the midst of trees, through which runs a clear and rapid but small river fertilizing the surrounding country. Around the village on all sides are fruit gardens and fields. It is crown property, and many of the inhabitants are very rich. (Holmes.) KHORASAN— Lat. 33° 30' to 38° 80'; Long. 53° to 60" ; Elev. A province of Persia situated on its north and east border. It is very difficult to attempt giving the boundaries of this province, which is less known than any other in Persia, even to Persians, and to Europeans is almost unknown. Its northern boundary may perhaps be considered to reach to the foot of the spurs of the north branch of the Elburz mountains, yet as the Turkmans are here nearly paramount, it would be more correct to say that its boundary is defined by the Atak on the north and west. From this it includes Daragaz (going perhaps \° east of it), and Radkan, and down to the Tejand river (west of Kalat-i-Nadar and Sharakhs, which are clearly not in Persia) to the Persian post at Muzdira, whence it follows that river to its junction with the Harirtid, which is then the boundary between Khorasan 243 KHO and the Tfjrkmans as far as the post of Kahsan, when it divides Afghanistan from Persia. The Harirnd then forms the boundary between these states as far as Sekiwan, when the Afghan boundary crosses and runs due south as far as Lat. 33" 3'. Prom this point I am inclined to think a line drawn to between Dehnimak and Lasgird on the Tehran and Mashad road would represent a more accurate southern boundary than that shown in present maps. From near Lasgird the boundary probably goes up to the crest of the Elburz range, which it follows till its bifurcation near Shahrud, when it follows the northernmost of the two spurs to the Atak. The length of the country thus described would be about 500 miles in breadth from north-west to south-east, and 300 miles in breadth from north to south, and its area about 150,000 square miles. The political divisions of Khorasan appear to be, 1, the northern districts ; inhabited by Kurds j 2, Turshez ; 3, Tabas ; 4, Ghayn j 5, Khaf; 6, Mashad ; 7, Nishapur ; 8, Shahrud or Damgan. In the north, in the fertile valleys of the Kurdish districts, live the descendants of Kurds, said to have been transported here by Shah Abbas the Great. In the centre, stretching from the extreme west to the extreme east boundary, the population is, I believe, generally Persian ; in the east the population in composed of Eimaks and Hazaras, while in the south and east they are the descendants of Arabs, who were also settled in this frontier by the monarch abovementioned. The province of Khorasan will, I think, be found, when our information shall be more exact, to be essentially mountainous. At present indeed we know that the whole of the west, north, and east portions are so, and I am of opinion that the south is scarcely less so. The general aspect of the province may be said to consist of long narrow valleys bounded by bare brown, rocky hills, except in the north, where Fraser mentions many places of great beauty and verdure. I think from a study of the information at my disposal, that the moun- tain system of Khorasan will be found to comprise two distinct ranges. The first of these is that which, running from the Hindu Kush to the south of Herat, enters the province south of Khaf, and then running north-east joins the Elburz range near Shahrud. From this point one branch goes on through Irak, and another runs first north and then east, divides the Atrak and Gurgan drainage from that which crosses the Shahrud and Nishapur road. The second system is that formed by the spurs of the great range, which, starting from mount Elvand, runs past Kohrud and south of Yezd to the south-east. This range throws out spurs to the north, and these may ap- proach more or less near to the south spurs of the great range first men- tioned as running south of Khaf and Turshez, but I am of opinion that these distinct systems nowhere join. Besides these it seems probable that the spur of the Elbtirz, which runs out between Kasvln and Tehran and divides the drainage of the Karasfi from that of the Jagrud, also runs a short way south-east into the desert of Khorasan, but how far there is no information to say. Khorasan cannot boast of many rivers, and those that there are, are mostly small. The most important is the Atrak, which rises to the north-east of Burjnfird, and bounds the province on the north. The others are the Tejand, the Ptjlabresham. 211. KHO KhorasSn has within itself every variety of climate, but all those districts which border upon the desert that stretches from Irak to Seistan are arid and subject to extreme heats, and in some parts the inhabitants are, during a few weeks in summer, compelled to avoid exposure, lest they should be destroyed by pestilential winds, or buried in the clouds of sand with which they are often accompanied, but notwithstanding this partial veil, Khorasan may be said to possess a fine and salubrious climate. The mineral productions of Khorasan consist of turquoise mines at Nishapur ; salt is found all over it in the shape of a thick efflorescence, and iron, lead, alum, ,and copper are said to exist. The animal productions of Khorasan are horses, camels, sheep, and oxen. Khorasan is inhabited by a great variety of races ; only its centre portion, or that lying near the northern and southern roads from Mashad to Tehran, being occupied by Persians. To the north-west, on the frontiers of As- tarabad and towards the Caspian, are Turkmans of the Goklan tribe ; to the north and north-east are the Kurds of 'Khabushan and Daragaz. In Turbat Shekh Jam and Khaf are sections of the Eimak tribe of Taemurls; in Turbat Haidari are the Karae and various tribes of Biloch and Leks. Turshez is chiefly inhabited by Arabs, as are Ghayn, Tun, and Tabas. Colonel Shiel gives the following list of the tribes of Khorasan : — Turbat-i-Shekh Jam ... ... 250 tents and houses. Speak Persian. Khaf, Taemurl ... ... 4,000 Turbat Haidari — Karal ... ... ... 5,000 Biloch ... ... ... 2,000 Leks ... ... ... ],000 Miscellaneous ... ... 2,000 Turshez district and town contains — ■ Arab ... ... ... 4,000 Biloch Tun and Tabas, names of two districts, whose chief towns are of the same name — C Language, Persian ; (. live at Khaf. • All speak Persian. houses and tents.) T ~ 2,000 tents and houses-! Lan & ua = e > Perslan - Arab-i-Reigunie Ghayn district and town — Arab Nekhee Sarhaddat, meaning the tribes Taemiiri MardI Muzduranl ... Chulal Tarkla Jelayer Leks and others Tiirkla Janishla Lek and other tribes Beyat and Khurshahl ... 7,000 houses and tents. Language, Persian. 12,000 houses and tents. Number not known. J Language, Persian. on the frontiers of Mashad — . 2,000 tents and houses. Live at Kezghun. 700 houses. 130 2,000 1,500 1,500 and tents. and tents. 3,000 tents and houses. Leks. 2,500 (Turks 245 C Turks are dispersed \ in various places. ( Language, Persian ; < live at Pery Best, 20 C miles from Mashad. Turks. C Turks ; live at Kalat-I (. Nadarl. 10,000 houses. they live at Nishapur. KHO Miscellaneous 1,000 houses. {X^tS. Kelijel 2,000 „ { ^tfj^ '^ Zaferanla ... ... ... 14,000 houses and tents. Leks; live at Kuchan. Kywanla ... ... ... 2,000 „ „ „ „ Burjnurd. Amanlu ... ... ... 1,500 „ „ „ „ Merdeshk." Colonel Shiel's informant says that the Arab tribes in Khorasan speak Arabic ; still, I think, he must be in error. The principal towns of Khorasan are Bostan, AbbasSbad, Shahrnd, Damgan, Burjnurd, Kuchan, Daragaz, Mashad, Nishapttr, Turbat Shekh Jam, Tiirbat Haidari, Khaf, Birjan, Gnayn, Tabas, Turshez, Tun. The soil of the various districts of Khorasan is very varied in its quality and character. The north-west, north, and north-east districts enjoy a very rich soil, and, being abundantly irrigated, are all extremely productive of corn : Mashad, too, is in a rich and well watered plain ; Daragaz and Kuchan are said to be so fruitful that dry gram yields a hundred and rice four hundred fold ; Turshez is mostly wild and uncultivated, except near the town itself; Turbat again is fruitful, and Nishapur is situated in one of the richest and best irrigated plains in Persia. The produce of Khorasan consists of fruit in great variety and most kinds of grain, and some silk, saffron, large quantities of assafcetida and a little cotton, also manna, tobacco, pistachio-nuts, and guns. The manufactures of this province are composed of the celebrated Khora- san! sabres, fire-arms of superior make, stone-ware, carpets of considerable fineness, " namads," woollen cloths, cotton goods, " poshtlns" or sheep skin pelisses, velvets, armour, &c, &c. Not much is known of the communications of Khorasan ; the great road from Tehran to Mashad has, however, been frequently travelled by travellers. Mr. Baillie Fraser and Sir Alexander Burnes are the only travellers who have traversed the Kurdish districts. Captain Clerk returned from Herat by the way of Khaf and Turshez, Captain Christie went from Herat by Tabas to Yezd, and M. Khanikoff from Seistan to Yezd, and many travellers have followed the route from Mashad to Herat. Besides these, of all of which we have accounts, there are routes from Mashad to Yezd, Herat to Kirman, etc. The following information of the revenue of Khorasan is taken from a manuscript in the Foreign Office : — The revenue of Mashad is 90,000 tomans, of Bostan 1,969, Damgan 1,943, and Semnun 6,997. {Kinneir — Malcolm — Fraser — Chesney Gib- bons — Imperial Gazetteer.) KHORASaNLU— A tribe of Azarbijan, Persia, who reside in the vicinity of the road between Khoi and Bayazld. {Stuart) KHOB, BAMISHIR— Lat. 29° 59' 30" to 30° ; Long. 48° 44' 30° to 48° 38' 30*. The mouth of the Karun river on the coast of Khuzistan Persia is so called'. It was formerly used by trading vessels, and was navigable a considerable way up ; but is now blocked by a dam near the Hafar canal. It runs in from the All Maedan, the soundings not varying more than a quarter of a fathom until you get as high as latitude about 29° 51' 30" north, when they deepen to five and seven fathoms according to the time of tide and decrease again to three and four fathoms at low water as you near the points. 246 KHO From the sea to Mohamrah there is a channel of not less than 9 feet 4 fathoms at low water. It was believed to be impracticable for navigation till Lieutenant Selby, I. N., tried it, and this opinion was probably fostered by the Turkish authorities in order to conduct all the trade of the Karun up the Shatt-ul-Arabj thus making it subject to taxation by them. The Bameshir is about 40 miles in length and about half a mile in width. Its general course is south-south-east. Its entrance is at low water during spring tides more than 3 fathoms deep. Its banks are but little inhabited, as its water being often mixed by the tides from the Persian Gulf is generally salt. {Selby — Bayard — Brueks.) KHOR DORAKASTIN— Lat. 30°1'20"; Long. 48° 54' 30"; Elev. A creek on the Khuzistan coast of the Persian Gulf, which runs up into the Karun river. It has one fathom at its entrance at low water and three and four fathoms inside. [Brueks.) KHOR GUFGA H— Lat. 29° 46' ; Long. 48° 44' ; Elev. A creek on the coast of Persia. It is formed by the island of Abadan on the west and Ah Maedan on the east ; has soundings from fifteen and eighteen fathoms in the southern part to two and a half at low water at the upper, where a narrow channel runs into the Euphrates. This is an excellent mark, coming from the eastward, for making the river. If you cross the All Maedan in three and a half fathoms low water, you will cross Khor Gufgah in eight or nine fathoms, and ought to keep down to the southward a little, as this is in the parallel of the Meyune. If you cross the All Maedan in four or four and a half fathoms, which is the best line, you will cross Khor Gufgah in thirteen to fifteen or sixteen fathoms, according to the time of tide, and the tail of the Abadan in four to five fathoms, when a course west, if a flood tide, will bring you on the Abdula bank, two and a half or three fathoms low water, which is a fair berth for anchoring if the tide is not favorable for entering the river, as from this you can always run into Khor Abdula if it comes to blow hard from the south-east, at which time no pilot will cross the bar. [Brueks.) KHOR KHALATA— Lat. 29° 31' 40" ; Long. 50° 36' 6" ; Elev. The mouth of the Gunawa river on the coast of Pars, Persia. It has one fathom at the entrance and two inside at low water. [Brueks.) KHOR KWOIRE— Lat. 28° 47' 25" ; Long. 51° 4' ; Elev. A creek on the coast of Fars, Persia, a few miles south of Halila peak. Its entrance is dry at low water. [Brueks.) KHORE LELATANG— Lat. Long. Elev. A creek on the coast of Fars, Persia, 1 mile from Ras-ul-Tamba. It has one fathom at the entrance and two within it. [Brueks.) KHORMAZARD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, west of Maragha, prettily situated in a valley with a profusion of running water fertilizing the fields by which it is surrounded. [Morier.) KHORMUSA— Lat. 29° 57' 10" ; Long. 49° 4' ; Elev. The mouth of the Nahr Bus! branch of the Jarahi river, which it leaves about 7 miles above Fezalhiah and fall into the sea at Khor Mtisa near Bandar Mashur. The soundings at this point are from 4 to 18 fathoms In latitude 30° 22' 20", longitude 48° 58' 45", is a rocky islet with 15 to 18 fathoms close to it. The water is salt and the banks all mud, and it is not possible to land on them except at high water. [Bayard — Brueks.) 247 KHO— KHU KHOR SARINAE— Lat. 29° 50' 20" j Long. 50° 18' 30" ; Elev. A rivulet on the coast of Pars, Persia, between Bandar Dilam and Bandar Reg. It has one fathom on the bar at the entrance and two or three inside. (Brucks.) KHOR SELEJ— Lat. 29° 59' 20" ; Long. 48° 46' ; Elev. A creek on the coast of Khtizistan, Persia, which runs up into the Karun river. Its entrance is nearly blocked up. {Brucks.) KHOSHK SARAE—Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on the road between Khoi and Marand. It is a pretty place situated at the termination of the slope of mountains and overlooked by a remarkable rock of conical shape distinct from the surrounding lands and very much resembling the sugar loaf-mountain at the entrance of Rio de Janeiro in the Brazils. This rock the natives call Kiz Kalesi or the mountain of goats, because it is said that none but goats can climb it. (Morier) KHUBBES— Lat. Long. Elev. 2,500. A small town and district of Kirman, Persia, about 50 miles east of Rinnan. Kbubbes is a neat-looking village fort, with a small citadel, which, however, is unoccupied. Within the walls dwell about 100 families, and beyond them, scattered far and near amongst the groves, probably 250 more. The site is said to be an ancient one, but the present fort was erected, in late years, as a protection to the inhabitants against Biloche marauders, who have occa- sionally carried their depredations into this and other villages. Immediately around the fort the space is occupied by fields of grain and henna, for the latter of which Kbubbes is noted as well as for its dates. It possesses neither bazaars nor shops, and the appearance of the people is that of great poverty. They in common with the inhabitants of other parts have suffered from the extortion of Governors. The regular revenue of the district amounts to about 1,900, but this sum is greatly increased by the local Government. The situation of Khubbes is on a dreary-looking plain on the borders of the great desert, at about 14 miles from the mountains on the west, and at the termination of the slant of that length, which is a tract of very stony soil. Scattered at some miles to the east, north-east, and south-east are nu- merous small villages, amounting in all to about 43, and forming a line north and south, composing, with their groves and fields and thickets of tamarisk, the district of Tekab. Henna, dates, and oranges are the princi- pal productions ; but tobacco and rice are also cultivated. It is reckoned that about 75,000 Tabriz mauns of henna are produced there, and 25,000 more in Khubbes, Andujard, and Keshit. The henna is the well known orange- coloured dye used by Mahomedans for their hair and beard, a brilliant black being obtained by the addition of indigo leaves to the above colour. The leaf of the henna plant resembles that of the myrtle in shape. The plant grows like a thin, straight twig about 18 inches in height. The leaves are stripped from it and dried, after which they are ground up and are ready for use. Cold quickly destroys the plant, but it usually yields leaves for six or seven years in succession. The henna of this part is the most esteemed in Persia. The dates are of the black and red kind, and are most delicious : 40,000 female trees are registered for taxes, and the quantity of fruit produced in all the district may amount to 120,000 Tabriz mauns. 248 KHU The heat in summer is so great at Khubbes that nearly all its inhabit- ants forsake the place for higher ground, leaving only a few to look after the cultivation. The poisonous wind, known as the Bad-e-Simum, rising in the desert, blows for about 40 days in summer during part of each day, generally an hour before and an hour after noon. Those who are caught by it in the desert are frequently destroyed, but it is not fatal where trees abound, and it is affirmed that the dates do not properly ripen without it. During four months of the heat this wind prevails from the direction of Khorasan. The place is well supplied with water from the two streams we passed yesterday, which after uniting are conducted to the gardens and groves of Khubbes by canals. To the north-east of Khubbes, at a distance of about 12 miles, is situated a tract of salt formed by the deposit of some collection of water from the mountain torrents, which apparently sweep over an intensely saline soil in their passage. The extent of this deposit is described as being 9 to 12 miles; the salt is several inches in depth, and is carried in slabs for sale to neighbouring places. Eastward of Tekab lies the great desert, extending towards SeistSn, an arid waste and wilderness, which neither man nor beast can inhabit. Caravans from Birjan usually arrive at Khubbes several times in the year ; they bring from Khorasan wool, grain, dried fruits, silk, saffron of Ghayn, butter, manna, &c, a great part of which goes on to Bandar Abbas for India. The caravan returns from thence usually in April, bringing groceries, spices, indigo, and English cotton manufactures for Khorasan. (Kinneir — Abbott.) KHUDA AFRID— A bridge over the Aras on the direct road from Ahar (Azarbijan) to Shisha (Karabagh) . There are two bridges here close to each other, one of which is very ancient, the other modern, but both are partially ruined, some of the arches having been at different times destroyed, but they are occasionally repaired by trees being thrown. The name is given on account of the piers being founded in rocks extending across the river. Here during the Russo- Persian war of 1828, a battalion of Russians was intercepted by Abbas Mirza with a force of Persians, and the men all either killed or taken to the King's camp then at Ardebil and 400 prisoners to Tabriz. (Monteith.) KHfrNAZA BARNI—Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Fars, Persia, which crosses the road between Kumarij and Kunar- takht on the Shiraz Bushahr road. It is described as " a fine stream some 30 yards wide." {Clerk.) KHUR— Lat. Long. Elev. A walled village in Khorasan, Persia, 65 miles from Birjan on the road to Semnun. It has 400 houses inhabited by Persians. (Ferrier.) KHCSHAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 33 miles from Bushahr and 5 miles from Borazjun. Here in February 1857, a force under General Sir James Outram defeated the Persian army. The water here is brackish from wells, but "sweet water can be attained by digging below. Sufficient supplies are procurable for small parties. The village has 150 houses and pays 150 tomans revenue. (Clerk — Felly.) KHUSHEK— A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, on the road from Tehran to Hamadan. (Morier.) 249 2 h KHIT KHUSHIA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 42 miles north-west of Semntm and 18 miles south-east of Damghan. There is a caravanserae and post-house here, and a fine stream of water from the Elburz. Supplies are brought here for the use of travellers from a village distant about 5 miles. {Clerk.) KHCSH KAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khemseh district, Azarbijan, Persia, one stage from Sultania. It is a very pretty place so embowered in wood and richly watered that it looks like an oasis after the surrounding country. {Fowler.) KHUSH KEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, situated on the plain of Zerend, 70 miles south-west of Tehran. {Eraser :) KHUSHKIZARD— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Fars, Persia, adjoining that of Ujan. It is in breadth about 15 miles and in length about 150. The soil is black loam fertilized with numerous springs of good water, and the ruins of towers, villages, and palaces prove that the nomads were not always permitted to monopolize what might with truth be denominated the garden of Persia. {Kinneir.) KHUSH KOH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 101 miles from Kirman on the road to Yezd. It is a small village with good water and well cultivated ground, a fort, new caravanserae and a post-house. {Smith.) KHUSHMARA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, south-west of Shiraz. It is the chief of a small sub- division, which has some villages on the mountains, which produce grapes and figs. The people trade in charcoal. {Petty.) KHtTSRtJABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A garden situated one-fourth mile south-west of Sehna in Persian Kurdistan. It is a piece of ground 100 yards square, divided into smaller squares by avenue of poplars with one grand centre avenue. {Rich.) KHUSRtJGIRD— Lat. * Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 5 miles west of Subzawar. It has a consi- derable extent of cultivation, amongst others some cotton-fields. There are the ruins of a larger village close by it. {Taylor — Clerk.) KHTTSRU SHAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 15 miles south-west of Tabrez, situated in the fertile and lovely valley of Uz Koh, and surrounded by beautiful groves and gardens. {Malcolm — Mignon.) KHUZAL— A tribe who inhabit tbe village of Sehnah in Irak, Persia. {Malcolm.) KHUZISTAN— Lat. 30° to 32° 30' j Long. 48° to 51° j Elev. A province of Persia, situated in its extreme south-west corner. It is bounded north and east by Luristan and the Bakhtiari mountains, south by the province of Fars and the Persian Gulf, and west by the Shatt-fll- Arab and the Pashalic of Baghdad. Layard gives the following boundaries of Khuzistan : "The following are at present generally considered as its proper boundaries :— To the north and east the mountains of the great chain on which the first snow usually falls; to the west the river Kerkhah, although the pastures on its western bank are inhabited by tribes under the Vall (Governor) of Hawizah, and are usually considered as Persian ground j 250 KHU to the south the Jarahi or Kurdistan river, and a line drawn across the desert from the Karun to the Kerkhah, a few miles above the junction of each of the rivers with the Shatt-ul-Arab or Euphrates ; to the east the Kurdistan. Within this province, therefore, are included the towns of Shustar, Dizful, and Hawizah, the plain of Ram Hormaz, the Bakhtiarls, part of the Feill and part of the Chab Arabs : the latter tribe, however, have hitherto been assessed by the Governor of Fars. Behbahan, although in our maps included in the province of Khuzistan, is properly in that of Fars. " Khuzistan has a length of about 200 miles from Kala-i-Reza to the Jarahi river, a breadth of 130 miles from Mohamrah to the northern mountains, and an area of 25,677 square miles. " It is divided politically and administratively into two districts, viz., that of the Shekh of the Chab Arabs and the government of Shustar. Its southern portion is composed of low lying plains indented by numerous ' khors' or inlets, and often inundated by the rivers which run through it in such profusion. The northern part consists of fine open plains bounded in their highest parts by the mountains. " To the south and west of the province are the homes of wandering tribes of Arabs under their different Shekhs, and on the north and east are tribes of Lurs and Persians. " To the north-east of Khuzistan is the lofty chain of the mountains of the Bakhtiarl — a continuation of the main Kurdistan range. Their sum- mits are frequently within the range of perpetual snow, but they are inter- spersed with fertile valleys, which are well watered and possess a generous soil. These mountains are the summer residences (yailak) of the Lur tribes. To the south of them are found highly fertile valleys and spacious plains, on which are the winter encampments of the same tribes. Beyond these, again, there occurs a range of hills varying from 5,000 to 2,000 feet in height, running parallel with the great chain, and consisting of sand- stone and a very friable limestone, much intermixed with gypsum ; and to the west of these are vast plains stretching in almost one uninterrupted flat to the Tigris, the Shatt-ul-Arab, and the sea. " The only hills in Khuzistan are the above-mentioned hills, which Layard mentions as a parallel and separate range to the main range. This, I think, must be a mistake, and it seems more probable that the low hills are merely the ends of spurs from the main range which spread out into an appearance of distinctness from tbeir parent. " Khuzistan is abundantly supplied with rivers, being in this respect different from the rest of Persia. Of these the most important are the Karun, Dizful, Kerkhah, and the Jarahi. " The climate of the upper part of Khuzistan, about Shustar and Dizful, is very healthy, and there seems to be no reason why it should not remain so. " Of the mineral productions near Mai DaUd are found white naptha and bitumen, and limestone abounds in all the low hills. " The population of Khuzistan is mostly composed of wandering tribes : these are the Feill, Bakhtiarls, the Kohgelu, Mamaseni to the north, and in the south the Arab tribes of Anafijiah, Ali Kethir, the Chab and Beni Lam. 251 KHU— KIN " In addition to the care of cattle, which is the prevailing occupation, agriculture is carefully attended to, and the quantity of tobacco, rice, and other grain (especially barley) produced along the banks of the river is considerable. Some cotton is likewise grown, and in the district of Ahwaz, sugar was abundant at no very distant period. On the lower parts of the KarGn and Kerkhah, as well as in the Chab country, dates are sufficiently abundant to be an article of commerce. In addition to the bitumen and naptha of Band-i-Kir, Daranapth, &c, tents, red cloth, coarse woollens, and some cottons are manufactured, the last chiefly at Dizful, where dyeing is extensively practised. Large flocks of sheep, with a portion of goats, camels, horses and mules, are to be seen on all the rich pasture-grounds of Susiana. " Occasionally permanent walled villages are met with, but the greatest part of the inhabitants live in tents, which are of a large size, being sup- ported by a number of poles in parallel rows, lessening in height from the ridge towards the sides, which are very low. This kind of tent is more commodious than that which is in use in other parts of Persia or in Arabia. In the latter country more frequent changes of residence render one of a higher and smaller construction necessary. " The principal towns of Khuzistan are Shustar, Dizful, Earn Hormaz, Fellahlah. " The communications of Khuzistan to the foot of the mountains are extremely open and easy, by means of the numerous rivers which intersect it, especially the KarQn. The Chab country is difficult by reason of its flooded state in winter and the almost total absence of water in summer. From Shustar there is a route to Ispahan and Shiraz by Behbahan, and to Baghdad through the country of the Bern Lam Arabs. Prom Dizful there are routes to Khoramabad and Bmujard, and thence to Kirmanshah and Hamadan. " Khuzistan, exclusive of the Chab country, is now rated at 46,000 tomans annually. Of this sum Shustar, Dizful, and the Arab tribes dependent on them pay 40,000, the remaining 6,000 being raised in Hawiza." (Layard— Chesney.) KIARtJD — Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Ghllan, Persia, which, rising in the north face of Elburz, falls into the Caspian near Rfid-i-Sar. It is crossed here by a bridge, which is of so awkward a construction, and rises to so great a height in the centre, that loaded cattle can hardly climb it. (Fraser.) KIBLEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of mountains in AzarbijSn, Persia. (C/iesney.) KINARA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 32 miles north-east of Shiraz and 3 miles from the ruins of Persepolis. It is situated in an alluvial cultivated plain and contains 200 houses. Water and provisions are obtainable. It is on the Kur river, which is here crossed by a bridge called Pul-i-Kan (Clerk ) KINARA GIRD— Lat. Long. Elev A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 20 miles on road from Tehran to Ispahan. It is situated on an open plain on the right bank of the Kerritch river, which is here fordable and the water of which is brackish. There is a large caravanserae here. (Cleric.) ° 252 KIR KIR— Lat. Long-. Elev. A village of Fars, Persia, south of Shlraz. The plain of Kir has a plea- sant appearance, owing to the turf with which it is clothed and its numer- ous palm groves. It possesses 23 villages and is an intensely warm district in summer, and is then forsaken by the tribes, though its other inhabitants remain in the villages, suffering, however, greatly from the swarms of flies which infest the country and from sore eyes. The produce is barley, wheat, rice, tobacco, tesame seed, and excellent dates. {Kinneir — Abbott.) KIRKLU— A branch of the Afshar tribe of Persia. {Chesney.) KIRMAN-— Lat. Long. Eley. A province of Persia, bounded on the east by a part of Seistan and Bilo- chistan, west by the province of Fars, south by parts of Luristan, Makran, and the Persian Gulf, and north by Khorasan. It has from the earliest ages been partitioned into the habitable and desert regions, a division which I purpose adopting, proceeding in the first place to a consideration of the former. Its extreme length from Regan in Nurmanshahr to Rabat on the boundary of Fars is about 365 miles; and its breadth, from the southern limit of Irak to the town of Bandar Abbas on the shores of the Persian Gulf, about 280. Even the soil of this tract is in many places very unprolific, and the face of the country barren and waste. There is not a river in the province, and were it not for a few springs in the mountainous districts, and the Karezes or aqueducts, the natives could not possibly exist. As it is, water is procured with extraordinary pains and attention, and withal not more than is sufficient to cultivate a very trifling portion of the soil. Nurmanshahr forms an exception to the aridity of the earth, but even there the vast supplies of water that formerly inundated that district have decreased very much ; and the extensive desolate plains between it, Bam, and Kirman seem to argue that the desert is fast encroaching in that quarter, which the inhabitants avow is undoubtedly the case. Generally speaking, Kirman is a very mountainous province ; the prin- cipal range of mountains is that which divides Nurmanshahr from Luristan, and thence running in a south-westerly direction approaches within four days' journey of Bandar Abbas. It here seems to take the turn of the coast, and trending away to the west and north-west joins the mountains of Fars in the latitude of 29° 40' north and longitude 54° east. In this course it throws out numerous ramifications, both to the northward and southward. Many of the former, particularly the more easterly ones which stretch into the desert, terminate between the 31st degrees of latitude, while some of the western arms reach the province of Irak. They are in some places, from their height, scarcely worthy of being called anything but hills, and in others are no way inferior to the great mass from which they have their rise. So entirely do they intersect the country that the plains which they separate are seldom seen to exceed 10 or 12 miles in breadth, though often of an indefinite length. There must be another range bounding Kirman on the north, which comes from Kohrud and runs south of Yezd and north of Kirman under the name of the Dawiran hills. The climate of this province is as varied as the face of the country, and it is accounted the least salubrious of any part of Persia ; they have seldom any heavy falls of rain, but snow lies to a great depth on the mountains in winter, and from their loftiness it does not melt for the greater 253 KIR part of the year, so that it is not unusual to see the people in the plains panting from the extreme heat, while it is freezing oh the summits of the mountains close to them. The air that blows down from them is very- cool and luxurious, but brings agues, fevers, and other diseases as its attendants ; and the natives dread it so much, and so often experience its baneful effects, that they prefer the most sultry weather. To the southward of the great chain of mountains, and between their bases and the sea, lies the G-armsar or hot country, being a narrow strip from thirty to ten leagues in breadth, which extend all along the sea coast of Persia from Minab to the mouth of the Shatt-ul-Arab or Basrah river. Within the limits of Kirman this tract is almost solely composed of saline sand, and the climate is peculiarly unhealthy. It produces nothing but dates, which are of a very inferior quality, and is in consequence nearly depopulated. The desert region of the province of Kirman extends in length 270 miles, from the northern boundary of Nurmanshahr in latitude 29° 30' north to the mountains of Khorasan in latitude 34° north ; and in breadth 200 miles from the city ofYezdin longitude 55° 40' east to a range of mountains separating it from Seistan in 60° east. The soil of this tract is impreg- nated to such a degree with salt, and so decidedly barren, that it does not even produce grass or any other vegetation for 80 or 90 miles at a stretch, and water is entirely out of the question. The Afghan army, on its march to invade Persia in 1719, suffered the most dreadful hardships in this waste, and after one-third of the whole had perished, the remainder reached Nurmanshahr with the loss of all their equipage and baggage. There is a path through it from Kirman to Herat, by which couriers can go in eighteen days; but the risk of perishing is so great that in 1810 a person of that description demanded two hundred rupees to take a letter from Pottinger to Captain Christie. Shiel gives the following list of the tribes of Kirman, viz. : — Afshar, 1,500 houses, Turks ; Karai, 700 houses, Turks ; All Ilahi, 3,000 tents and houses, Leks ; Khormalband, 100 tents, Leks ; SelstSnis, 150 houses Biloches ; live in Bam and Nurmanshahr. {Pottinger — Shiel.) KIRMAN— Lat. 29° 56'; Long. 56° 6'; Elev. 5,000 ft. A city of Persia, capital of the province of the same name, situated on the western side of a capacious plain, but so close to the mountains that two of them, on which there are ancient decayed forts, completely command it. The city lay desolate for some years until after the accession of the pre- sent King, who directed the fortifications to be re-built on a reduced plan. The fortifications of Kirman are, however, still very large, and consist of a high mud wall with 19 bastions in each face, and a dry ditch 20 yards wide and 10 deep. The works are entirely encompassed by ruins that extend on the southern sides, and there is a considerable angle of the space within the walls which is yet quite deserted. The gates are four in number, and the ark or citadel in which the Governor's palace is built lies on the southern face of the fort; it is defended by similar works. The bazaar is well sup- plied with articles of every description and from every nation; one part of it is covered in with very elegant domes, built of a beautiful kind of blue stone dug from quarries m the adjacent mountains. There are either eight or nine caravanseraes within the walls, besides many inferior ones outside. 254 KIR When Major Smith visited Kirman in 1866 the walls had been repaired, and inside the town bazaars and caravanseraes were in course of erection. The population of Kirman is not now more than 30,000 souls, of which a small proportion are Guebres or Parsees ; but there are neither Armenians, Hindus, nor Jews resident in the place. Some of the two former classes occasionally repair thither on business. The trade of Kirman, though still considerable, has never revived in a manner to be compared to what it was previous to its last depopulation, and in all likelihood never will again, as the resort of merchants to BUshahr daily gains ground to the prejudice of Bandar Abbas and, of consequence, Kirman. Its manufactures of shawls, - matchlocks, and namads, or felts, are celebrated all over Asia, and are said to afford employment to upwards of one-third of the inhabitants, whether male or female. The former are made from the wool known by the ancient name of the province (Karamania), and they, in delicacy of fabric and texture, outrival those of Kashmir ; but they are not equal in downy soft- ness and warmth. The sheep from which the wool is sheared, for it is a mistaken idea that it falls off, are very small and short-legged; were removed to different parts of the kingdom by orders of Fatteh All Shah, the King, where, although the animals appear to thrive, the wool loses its qualities, and what is still more unaccountable, it cannot be wrought to any perfection elsewhere than at Kirman. From this undoubted fact it is to be inferred that the climate or water of that city has something very pecu- liar in its nature ; and it is very curious that a similar circumstance occurs with regard to the province of Kashmir. Pottinger mentions having visited all the principal weaving manufactories at Kirman, but he saw no- thing in that process to merit description ; at one of them he procured speci- mens of wool which were finer and softer than any cotton he had ever seen, and some of the shawls he purchased there were so even and beautiful that they were valued by shawl merchants in India, to whom he afterwards showed them, at 500 per cent, more than cost. The wool when first cut off is repeatedly and carefully scoured and picked, after which it is immersed for some weeks in a wash, the ingredients of which are unknown to any save the makers, but seem to be chiefly formed from a decoction of different leaves and barks ; this renders it pliant and soft and fit for spinning, which last operation is executed by women, and the thread is then ready for the loom. Major Smith, R. E., remarks regarding the shawls and carpets that they are the finest in Persia, and are considered next in value to those of Kashmir. Both are made entirely by the hand without the use of even a shuttle. In making the carpets, the threads (all of one colour) forming the length of an upright loom consist of two horizontal rollers. The cross coloured threads that form the pattern are worked on by as many small boys as the. breadth of the web will allow to squat in front of the loom. As the work progresses the web is gradually rolled up on the lower roller. After every two or three rows have been worked, wide-teethed combs are inserted in the wool and hammered down with a mallet to make the carpet close and firm. The master-weaver draws and colours the designs on paper ruled to represent the different threads, after which he teaches the pattern to the pupils, who commit it to memory. The shawls are woven in a similar manner, almost the only difference being that the frames are horizontal instead of upright. The memory of the workmen cannot possibly be assisted by seeing the pattern develop itself, as they always work with the 255 KIR reverse side of the web upwards. The workshops in which the weaving is carried on are such low, dark, miserable rooms that one cannot but wonder that they should produce such beautiful manufactures. The shawls vary in price from 5 to 50 tomans (Rs. 230), and fine carpets cost as much as from 4 to 10 tomans the square yard. Very few of the finer sort are made for sale in the bazaar, almost all being made to order for grandees in all parts of the kingdom. The spinning and dyeing of the wool for the carpets and the " koork" for the shawls are also carried on in Kirman, which thus produces the raw material and completes its manufactures. The Kirmanis chiefly send their shawls, namads, and matchlocks to - Khorasan, Kabal, Balkh, Bokhara, and the northern provinces, and in' return receive assafcetida, guns, rhubarb, madder, and other drugs ; Bokhara skins, furs, silk, steel, copper, and tea : the latter three articles are for home consumption; they export the remainder to India, Sind, Arabia, and the Red Sea ; also pistachio-nuts, rose leaves and buds for making conserve, gums, cotton, carpets, and bullion ; and import, from the former country, tin, lead, iron, copper, steel, pepper, and all other species; chintz (both European and Indian), indigo, muslin, tea, satin, keemkhab, or gold- flowered silks, zureebaf or gold-cloth, cocoanuts, China and glass-ware, broad cloth, &c, &c. From Sind they have white cloth and colored loon- gees for turbands; and from Arabia and the Red sea, coffee, gold-dust, ivory, musk, frankincense, slaves, &c, &e. Major Smith remarks, the trade of Kirman is less than that of Yezd. The chief exports are "Koork" (which is sent by Bandar Abbas and Karachi to Kashmir), wool, carpets, and shawls (cotton) to Bombay, and grain to Yezd, which does not produce enough for the support of the inhabit- ants. The imports are chiefly cotton goods, sugar, copper, &c, from India. Once or twice a year caravans come from Seistan and Kandahar. The revenues of the city of Kirman were in 1810 only 25,000 tomans per annum, but were said to be rapidly increasing, and are appro- priated by the prince, with the permission of His Majesty, for the main- tenance of his court and a body of troops that are exclusively kept in pay for the city and its neighbourhood. They, arise from the bazaar duties, which are very high, and a heavy tax on shawls and matchlocks ; besides which every camel or horse that enters any caravanseraie in the city pays one rupee as a toll ; a poney, half a rupee ; an ass one quarter, &c. Kirman was once the most flourishing city in Persia, and in size was-— second to none except the capital, Ispahan. Its situation in the direct j road from Khorasan, Balkh, Bokhara, Mawar-ul-Nahr, or Trans-Oxiana, | and all the northern part of the Persian empire to the sea-port town of / Bandar Abbas, gave it incalculable advantages as an emporium, and rendered / it the centre of wealth, luxury, and magnificence ; yet no city in the . East has been more subject to reverses of fortune, or oftener the scene of \ the most destructive wars, both foreign and domestic, than Kirman. The Khaliphas, Jangez Khan, Timurlang, the Afghans, and Nadar Shah repeatedly and successively took, plundered, and destroyed it, in which it has little more frequently fallen to the victor by storm. The last event of this kind happened so recently as the year 1794, when it was betrayedL into the hands of Agha Mohummud Khan, founder of the Kajjar dynasty. {Malcolm — Kinneir — Pottivger — Smith.) 256 KIR KIRMINSHAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Persia lying between Lat. 34° to 85°, Long. 44°5' to 48°. It is bounded north by the mountains of Persian Kurdistan, east by Irak Ajaml, south by Luristan, and west by Turkish Kurdistan. Under the government of Mahamad All Mirza this was one of the most flourishing provinces in the empire, but since his death it has been subject to the most grinding tyranny, and now it everywhere presents a scene of ruin and desolation. Formerly it produced a considerable revenue, but now a great diminution has been the result of oppression naturally. Kirmanshah is a peculiarly productive part of Persia, the mountains are as much so as the plains, and on these hundreds of thousands of sheep can be reared. The Kurds of the mountains of Kirmanshah in a great degree supply Tehran, whither each spring they take as many as 70,000 sheep. A great number also go to Turkey, and it seems probable that the nomads of Kirmanshah will eventually send the whole of their flocks destined for sale to that country in preference. The horses of this province are esteemed and have much Arab blood, but their form is more developed, the neck is strong, chest full, and they are as well adapted for draught as for the saddle. The carpets of Kirmanshah are a manufacture which adds much to the wealth of the province, none can be more rich, soft, and beautiful ; the patterns 'are in perfect taste, and the colors most brilliant, but these are not their only merits, for they are cheap and very durable. These carpets are made in the villages and in the tents of the nomad tribes, generally by the women and children. Here there is no complicated machinery : four stakes fixed hi the ground, which serve to twist the woollen thread, form the simple mechanism employed in weaving these beautiful carpets. Manna (guzengebin) abounds in the province of Kirmanshah. The Persians mix it with flour and sugar and make it into little cakes ; these they consider great dainties and export them to all parts of Asia. The revenues of the province of Kirmanshah, which now only consists of five districts, amount to— Prom the taxes ... ... ... 60,000 tomans. Prom the customs ... ... ... 13,000 „ Making a total of about ... ... ...£35,000 Shiel has the following lists of the various tribes who inhabit Kirman- shah : — Giiran ... ... ... ... 3,300 houses and tents, Leks. Kalhor ... ... ...- ... 11,500 Zauganah ... ... ... ... 10,500 Surjabis, a lawless tribe, are a branch of the Zanganah 2,000 houses. Jalalawand ... ... ... ... 300 houses and tents, „ Balawand ... ... ... ... » 1,000 „ „ Panjinawand ... ... ... ...J Robust and tall. Zobonawand ... ... ... ... 1,000 houses and tents, Leks. Kakasrand ... ... ... ... 2,000 „ „ Hersim ... ... ... ... 400 houses, Leks. Jalilawand ... ' ... ... ...") 600 houses and tents. Zuleh ... ... ... ... i 250 Leks. Miscellaneous ... ... ... ...) 1,200 „ Nana Kill! ... ... ... ... 700 tents, Leks. Ahmadawand ... ... ... ... 1 Pyrawand ... ... ... ... V 750 houses and tents, Leks. BahtuT ... ... ... ...J 257 2 1 KIR Filehglri Sufehwand Vermezgar Khodabandehlu Kuziawand 2,000 houses and terits,Leks, in the district of KCisiain. 200 houses, Turks. 1,500 tents, Leks. Shiel says this list is not altogether to be trusted. (Kiwievr — Pasley — SJi iel — Ferrier — Rawlinson.) KIRMANSHA H— Lat. 34° 18' 45" ; Long. 46° 37' ; Elev. A town, the capital of the district of the same name in Persia, about 250 miles south-west of Tehran, 262 miles west-north-west of Ispahan, 220 miles north-east of Baghdad, 300 miles south- south -east of Tabrez by Senna, and 380 by Zanjan. The town is built on the rising ground, which is connected with hills to the south, and its situation is most picturesque and imposing from being surrounded with gardens. The walls of the city are 3 miles in circumference and are in ruins, and the moat much encumbered with their debris, so that it is now an open town. It has five gates and numerous loop-holed towers flanking the wall. Kinneir describes it as a flourishing town, containing about 12,000 houses, but oppression and misgovernment have since had their fruit ; three -fourths of the population have emigrated, the townspeople to Azarbijan, nomades to Turkey, and the town is now a mere heap of ruins ; the bazaars but partially filled and with scarcely any trade except in fruits. In the time of Mahamad Ah Mirza, Kirmanshah had a population of 35,000 souls, but after his death it decreased to 12,000. The inhabitants are chiefly Shlas. Formerly Kirmanshah boasted of some handsome edifices, but these for the most part have gone to decay. The town now has a mean appearance, from the approaches to it, and were it not for the lofty turrets that flank the " Andarun" or " women's apartments" of the palace it would fail to strike the eye. Almost concealed in the uneven ridges of some undulating hills (the Kamr-zard) that bound it on the south face, it is reputed hot and at times unhealthy. The gardens are, however, pretty and contain some fine fruit trees. The slim and lofty poplar flourishes here in perfection, but is seldom allowed to attain to maturity. Internally the town presents a picture of ruin similar to most eastern towns. The palace walls are surrounded by untenanted hovels, and decay presents itself whichever way the eye of the spectator turns. Its bazaars are but partially filled, and, with the exception of fruits which are abundant, offer but little proof of commercial enterprise. Kirmanshah was celebrated for the richness and beauty of its carpets, but scarcely one is now obtainable. Industry, indeed, is at present unknown on the spot where thousands of busy fingers were daily occupied in weaving those beautiful and justly famed specimens of Persian workmanship. The causes of this lamentable decline of the trade and the . arts are owing to the rapacity of its successive Governors and to plague and cholera. The better sorts of piece-goods and other European manufacture find their way here from Tabrez, and the refuse of the Baghdad markets is also imported by the poorer dealers when the bazaars of that city are overstocked. Tabrez is, however, the chief place whence its imports are derived. The town was formerly girt by a strong wall that now exposes large gaps, through which a squadron of horse might traverse the whole range of its streets, rendering the gates of the city a dead letter and merely used from habit alone Kirmanshah is governed by a Prince of the blood, and has an arsenal and a garrison of 5,000 regular troops. It is a position of considerable 258 KIR— KIS strategic importance, being nearly equidistant from Tabrez, Enzeli on the Caspian, Tehran, Ispahan, and Baghdad. It was recommended by Sir H. Rawlinson during the Persian war of 1856 that this place should be the main depot in the event of the advance of a British Force against Tehran from Baghdad. {Kinneir — Eraser — Ferrier — 8/del — Jones — Rawlinson — Stanton.) KIRMINSHAHIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 60 miles from Yezd, and 180 miles from Kirman, on the road between them. There is a post-house, an excellent caravanserae, and a fort occupied by a few matehlockmen placed here to guard the road. {Smith.) KIRRIND— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Kirmanshah, Persia, which rises close to the gates of Zagros, and has a tortuous course of nearly 100 miles in a south-east direction. In the latter part of its course, it forces its way through the Zagros by a tremendous gorge into the plain of Zangawan. Thence it takes the name of Ab-i-Sirwan as it passes in a south-south-east direction through the valley of Rudbar, being increased almost at the junction by the Zanga- wan, Ab-i-Sirwan, and two other streams, all of which come from the west. {Rawlinson?) KIRRIND— Lat. 34° 16' 59"; Long. Elev. A town in Kirmanshah, Persia, 41 miles west of that place, and 171 miles from Baghdad, on the road between the two places. It is described by Fraser as grotesquely, rather than picturesquely, placed at the mouth of a gorge between two precipitous hills. The houses, though small, are neat and built in terraces on the slope of the gorge, with the naked and scarped rock rising abruptly above them. The number of houses is 1,100, and it has a caravanseraeshah. Rich gardens extend up the defile and along the base of the mountain, which produce a variety of fruits, including the celebrated stoneless grape known as that of Kirrind. The willow and the lofty poplar attain a considerable size in the margin of a mountain stream that bisects the village, and is afterwards turned off into smaller channels for the supply of the gardens in the plain. Several copious springs issuing from the place, which is here about three miles broad, add their water to numerous mountain streams and form the sources of the Ab-i-Kirrind, the north-west tributary of the Kerkhah river. Kirrind is famous for its cutlery and hardware. The temperature is very mild ; when Jones visited it in August the maxi- mum point of the thermometer was only 85°. A mild east wind prevails throughout the nights, and is followed by a refreshing west wind that lasts during the day. The Kirrindis are of the All-Ilahi sect, and are an inde- pendent race. Thsy are said to indulge at certain seasons in orgies, which end in the promiscuous gratification of lust between the sexes. {Fraser — Kinneir — Jones — Taylor — Ferrier — Rawlinson.) KIRWAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 36 miles from Sultania, on the road to Tehran. It is described as a pretty place. It has a post-house, and there is good shooting in the neighbourhood. {Fa&twiek.) KISHLAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 60 miles east of Tehran, on the road to Mashad. It is described as a pretty village, the chief one of the little district of Khar, and contains about 100 houses. The water here is 259 KIS brackish. It supplies a certain amount of grain to Tehran, and is situated in a well watered and well cultivated tract. Several large villages are in sight of this place. {Clerk — Holmes — Ferrier — Petty — EastwieJc) KISHLAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, east of Ahar on right hank of the Aharchai. It is situated in a beautiful valley enclosed with hills, on whose sides are pitched numerous tents of nomads. (Morier.) KISHLAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 146 miles from Shlraz and 105 miles from Isfahan, on the west road between these places. There is a fort here and a few mud houses with a stream of water. (M. 8. Route.) KISHLAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khemseh district, Persia, north-west of Kasvin. It is a walled village. (Stuart.) KISHM— Lat. Long. Elev. An island in the Persian Gulf, lying off the coast of. Laristan and tributary to the Imam of Maskat. It is about 55 miles in length by 32 miles broad in the widest part, and 9 miles the narrowest. It is separated from the main land coasts of Laristan and Kirman in Persia by a channel varying from 3 to 8 miles. This channel, called the Clarence Strait, is very intricate but navigable for the largest ships, though it would be impossible to at- tempt to sail through unless with a fair wind and a pilot who thoroughly understood it. There are many small islands between it and the main land, all low and covered with wood. In sailing among them trees are thus on either side, giving the passage a green and picturesque appearance. The sound- ings are irregular, varying from 12 to 4 fathoms. In its form Kishm bears a resemblance to a club, the handle being at the south-west end and the knob at the north-east end. On the south side a ridge of hills extends from one extremity to the other, while the remaining space to the north is occupied by arid plains and deep ravines. The greater part of the surface of the island is sterile, and in some places encrusted with a saline efflorescence, but the most striking features in its structure are some singular shaped table hills which occupy insulated positions in the plains. These are of a circular form, principally composed of sandstone, and are broader at the upper part than at the base. Their average height is from 200 to 400 feet; their surface and sides worn into hollows by the weather give them the appearance of having been subjected to the action of a powerful stream, an illusion still further increased by observing the plains and the sides of the hills which, in the form of banks, bound what seem to be the beds of deserted water-courses. The only towns on the island are Kishm, Laft, and Basidohe. The north part of the island is the most fertile, and on this account the most popu- lous. The soil consists of a black loam, and on it is reared wheat, barley, vegetables, melons, grapes, &c., and dates are produced in large quantities : cattle and poultry are also reared, but unless their crops fail them, the inhabitants are indifferent about disposing of the latter. The whole number of inhabitants on the island may amount to about 5,000, chiefly Arabs. They employ themselves in fishing, in cultivating the soil, and in making cloth, and they supply the Gulf with "lungis" and striped cotton and silk cloths. They reside in villages and hamlets scattered along the sea-coast. Taylor speaks highly of their personal appearance and character. Before 260 KIS the pirates became so powerful, the island could boast of about 70 small towns and villages and a population of 20,000 inhabitants; most of these were destroyed. The island is now recovering, but it will never be what it was formerly. The island is much infested with jackals, which prowl about at night tearing up the dead bodies from the burying-grounds and carrying off goats ; the natives are thus obliged to bring in their flocks at sunset and confine them in an enclosed place. Antelopes, partridges, and rock pigeons also abound, and wild fowls are frequently seen in the winter season. The few productions of this island do not differ from those to be found on the main land ; a few grapes are grown in wells, or the vines are permitted to climb round the branches of the banian tree ; a few mangoe trees also are found at Dastagan, but in no other part of the island. Salt is found on the south side rising up into hills or formed into caves. In the centre of one of these caverns, about 50 yards in length and 12 in height, flows a stream of water, and from the roof and sides hang long stalachtites of salt, which are sometimes 18 to 20 inches in length. The surrounding plains are covered with a saline crust which the natives collect and carry to Dastagan. Pelly gives the following account of these caves, which are situated about 15 miles east of Basidon and about 4 miles east of the village of Kaoni : " Here the general formation of the island which, like that extending all along this and the Makran coast to Karachi, is a coarse sandstone grit and con- glomerate overlaying blue Has. Marl now suddenly ceases, and the salt formation, which seems to extend some way into the interior of the island, abuts on the shore line, with which it runs parallel at a few hundred paces distance for some miles, when it again abruptly turns inland. The general aspect of the range is dark red, alternately with slate colour, strewed in part with earth. The scarps are steep, and the height of the summits may vary from 3 to 4 or 600 feet. The entire range seems to be salt, and reminded me of the salt-hill near Nishapur, on the road from Tehran to Mashad. The two sets of salt caves which I visited were respectively at the two extremities of the shore-face of the range. The cave on the side nearest to Kaoni is comparatively small, and does not seem to be worked; but one of the caves on the further extremity is of truly noble proportions, being a vault of from 2 to 300 feet in height, of about the same length, and with a span of 60 or 70 feet. The entire arch of the cave is beautifully streaked like marble, while large crystalline salites hang from the roof in festoons white as snow. Another cave of lesser dimensions is in the immediate vicinity, and it is this one which is principally worked : it may be about a , mile distant from the beach ; a sufficiently good path for camels and donkeys leads up to it. The blocks of rock salt quarried from the interior of the cave are laid in heaps at its entrance to be carried by donkeys and camels to the sea-shore, where it is stowed in small native crafts and carried to Maskat for ultimate exportation to Calcutta and the east coast of Africa. The period of working is said to be about five months in the year, begin- ning from the early spring, when from 100 to 150 hands may be daily employed. The reason alleged for non-working the salt during the remain- ing months of the year is that boats cannot lay inshore for landing unless during the calm season ; but I rather suspect that the working is regulated by the demand. Every boat shipping salt pays 2 kerans, or about one rupee per ton, to the Shekh of Kishm, and every camel employed in 261 KIS carrying pays 5 kraps per annum to the same authority. It is said (and from the general appearance of the place it seems certain) that working in them is dangerous on account of the frequent falling of large blocks of salt from the roof and sides. Many laborers are said to have been killed in this manner ; and among other numerous debris, I noticed one solid mass of pure rock salt, about 12 feet thick with sides of 16 feet, which had recently fallen across the centre of the cave. It does not appear that the pure salites abovementioned are made use of, although I found the few specimens that I gathered to be the best and purest tablesalt I ever tasted. No fresh water is found in the immediate vicinity of these caves ; the laborers collect their drinking water from a brackish well, and one or two artificial rainwater tanks about two miles distant. The water that we drank while pitched there was brought from wells dug close to the base of the Kaoni salt range." About 3 miles west of the village of Sellak are some naptha springs, the liquid of which is of average burning quality, but scant and not of much worth to trade. Sandstone appears the predominant rock in the island. On many of the arid plains on the centre of Kishm are found fragments of mica varying in size from 3 to 4 inches to even a foot square. Good hunting is obtained in several parts, and a small and very beautiful description of antelope is found during the day on the plains, the flesh of which in the cold weather is much esteemed. The principal birds are vultures, cranes, grey partridges, hawks, pigeons, the kingfisher, hoopoe, and jay. There are several others remarkable for the beauty of their plumage. Several varieties of fish are caught on Basidoh bank : prawns, crabs, and lobsters are also abundant. There are several varieties of snakes, some of the most venomous kind. From the irregular outline of the island and the existence of numerous banks and islets, the direction of the channel which separates Kishm from the mainland is varied and tortuous. Commencing from the west, about midchannel between Basidoh and the Mam, there is a sand bank with about 10 feet of water upon it. Across this towards the Persian coast you carry a depth of & to 3 fathoms, but towards the Kishm side the channel varies both in depth and in nature. In some places there is soft mud over hard rocks, in others a mixture of clay and mud very tenacious, and in other parts a clear bottom of sand. Proceeding up the channel towards Gorun, the deepest water is near the island, and its depth is indicated by the appearance of the shore : if the cliffs rise up boldly, the water is deep close to the shore ; on the other hand, when the plain slopes down to the sea, extensive mud flats run off it to a considerable distance. Beyond Gorun approaching towards Laft two chan- nels branch forth, one near the Persian shore used by ships, and another, although more narrow and winding, preferred by boats on account of its being free from rocks or banks ; the space between these two channels is nearly blocked up with mud flats dry at low water and but partially covered at high water. Narrow streams intersect these flats arid form them into groups of islets. These islets are covered with a dense thicket of man- grove trees, and the lively green of their foliage in a country so destitute of vegetation presents a refreshing and pleasing effect. Beyond Laft the forest disappears, but for about 16 miles the channel continues equally intricate ; from this point it runs along the Kishm shore, and eventually 262 KIS opens out into the gulf of Hormaz where all is clear. There is a point of some interest connected with the set and direction of the tide on this channel, the flood enters at both extremities and meets at Laft, where the rise and fall is about 14 feet. This affords great facility for navigating the straits, for a vessel quitting the town of Kishm with the first of the flood may reach and start from Laft at high water, and have .the whole of the ebb tide to carry her back to Basidoh. The Persian name for the island is Jazirat Daraz, and the Arab name is Jazirat Towile. (Kempthome-r-Brucfo — Whitelocke — Kinneir — Taylor — Felly.) KISHM— Lat. 26°57'10". Long. 56°18'50". Elev. A town situated at the extreme east end of the island of the same name in the Persian Gulf. It is situated near the sea, its site being remarkably well chosen. A wall flanked by turrets surrounds it, and affords the inhabitants security from robbers and pirates. Some of the houses are large, and, for this part of the country, neatly fitted up, the roofs are flat, and the apertures for light are partially filled up with curious devices formed of a fine cement. Kishm has the appearance of having been formerly of greater commercial importance than at present. The bazaar was formerly abundantly supplied with vegetables of various kinds, fruits, apples, and pomegranates from the interior of Persia. Very good wine and every description of dried fruit could be obtained, as well as silk and cotton clothes, together with very fine carpets, soft as silk and of the richest pattern and dye. This, however, was in 1821, when a British force was encamped near it. Kishm is frequently visited by native vessels, which touch here for wood and water and to engage pilots for the Clarence Straits and the town, has in consequence a bustling appearance. A few coasting vessels also are constructed here from timber brought from the Malabar Coast. The number of inhabitants has been computed at 2,000, most of them being sailors and fishermen. In the plains to the west of the town there are several patches of cultivated ground interspersed with clumps of date trees. The British force, which encamped here after the failure of the Beni Bu Ali Expedition in 1821, occupied a spot about one mile from the town in a strong position on an elevated tabular ridge which presents a steep face on either side. This situation, however, was found to be so hot and unhealthy (a thermometer having on one occasion burst at a temperature of 1 60°) that after losing five or six officers and half of the men, it was abandoned and the troops removed to Sellak. The anchorage is good in a north-wester, but a chopping sea comes in with a south-easter; a bank runs in front of the town. (Kempthorne — Whitelocke — Petty — Kinneir — Brucks — Taylor) KISHMIH.— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ghllan, Persia, about 30 miles south from Resht. It is a mere collection of sheds where a market is periodically held. There are a few permanent habitations also in it. A clear stream runs by it. {Fraser.) KISHT— Lat. Long. Elev. about 1,000. A plain in Fars, Persia, situated about two-thirds of the way from Shiraz to Bushahr at the head of Kotal-i-Malu. It is a plain of an irregular oval shape, some 10 miles long by 5 miles broad, and surrounded by hills, except at the point where it overlooks the pass. A river winds down through the hills past the runs of Shahpur, and bearing that name enters KIS— KIZ the plain of Kisht in a fine drinkable stream on its eastern side, and keeping close below the hills which skirt the plain on its east and north sides passes below the town and fort of Kisht, and finally descends to the Gulf far to the north of the Behbahan and Shustar line. Numerous water duets have been cut across the plain leading from the river bed, and this portion of the plain is well cultivated with wheat, barley, rice, tobacco, and cotton ; it contains also extensive date groves, perhaps upwards of 2,000 date trees may be found. The plain is further dotted with old stumps of trees and brush- wood. In the centre of the plain and on the high road is the group of hamlets called Kunar Takht, lying around a commodious and solid masonry caravanserae. There are some 31 villages or hamlets subordinate to Kisht, which is considered as a revenue division. The following is a list of them with their distances from the fort of Kisht :— On the north, Mohledin, 2 miles ; Aikuni, 5| miles; Bureki, 2 miles; Khojamali, 5£ miles; Bozin, 5£ miles; Gurlkel, 1 mile. On the east, Kumarij, 11 miles; Banu, 11 miles; Rudak, 11 miles; Mobrizi,' 18 miles; Siahmansir, 22 miles; Shul, 22 miles; Jamila, 28 miles ; 2 Burekis, 3 miles. On the west, Mal-i-Shekh, 28 miles ; Dasht-i- Gur, 25 miles; Sardashtak, 28 miles; Siahmansir, 22 miles; Khun-i-Surkh, 22 miles; Shul, 18 miles; Jereh, 22 miles; Chashistani, 3£ miles; Burjekan Bakar, ?>\ miles; Burj Kaid Mahamad Taki, 2 miles; 3 Burekis, 2 miles. These villages may contain from 100 to 200 inhabitants each, dwelling in from 30 to 60 temporary huts. The produce of the country not required for home consumption is either consumed by passing caravans or is exported to KazirQn or Bushahr. The imports are piece goods, sugar, and coffee for home use. The revenue, amounting to 7,000 tomans, is levied in the lump. The safety of the road traffic is provided for by the chief of the district, who maintains 50 irregular footmen for that purpose. The chief is responsible for all goods lost or plundered from caravans with- in his district, and charges a sort of transit due of 25 cents, of a kran on every load of piece goods, and 12^ cents, on every load of miscellaneous merchandise. Colonel Pelly is of opinion that English troops could not summer in tents or huts at Kisht without suffering. He passed two days in the serai during July and two days in the early part of September, during both periods a fiercely hot wind blew all day. In July the thermometer was at 96° in the early morning and about 110° in the heat of the day. {Petty) KIYtJNARZAE— See Bakhtiari, of which tribe this is a section. They number 800 fighting men. They are brave and expert horsemen, and reside near Kala Tul in the Bakhtiari mountains. (Layard.) KIZ KOPRI— Lat. Long. Elev. A bridge over the Jagatu river of Azarbijan, Persia, about 3 miles above Sain Killa. Four of the platforms of the piers are still standing. {Rawlinson) KIZL DIZA— A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on the road from Bayazid to Khoi. {Fraser.) KIZL GECHELER— Lat. Long. Elev. A small district of the Khemseh district of Persia, comprising both banks of the upper portion of the Kizl Ozan river between Anguran and the west slopes of Mount Demirli. {Rawlinson.) 264 KIZ KIZL GULCHAMAN— A plain in Azarbijan, Persia, in its north-west corner between the village of KUiseh and Kara Aineh. It is a favourite encamping ground of the kings of Persia and governor of Azarbijan. {Stuart.) KIZL KAPAN— A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 42 miles north-east of Tabriz, on the road to Ahar. It is an insignificant place containing between 30 and 40 houses. It belongs to the Shekh-ul-Islam at Tabrez, and pays yearly in money 40 tomans, besides in kind one-tenth its produce, which is considerable. From this part of the country Tabrez is supplied with wheat and barley, and carpets and saddle-bags are made here. The houses are built of mud, and here is a small stream supplying the inhabitants with excellent water. The inhabitants own about 700 sheep, 300 oxen, and are athletic and healthy looking. {Holmes.) KIZL KOTAL— A pass leading from Daragaz, in the Kurdish district of Khorasan, Persia, to the Attak. [Fraser.) KIZL OZAN. A river of Persia, the principal branch which rises in the mountains of Abbas Beg in Ardelan in about latitute 35°50' longitude 46°45 J , eight or nine miles north-west of Sehnah. Thence it makes an exceedingly tortuous course of about 100 miles in the general direction of north-east. After this its line is more direct for about 50 miles, through part of the tableland of Irak, and then it turns abruptly north-north-west and runs for 40 miles between high precipitous banks through the district of Kizl Gecheler, near the extremity of which it receives a tributary on the east side. Two and a quarter miles from KaragQl the river is fordable at times, but it is exceed- ingly difficult and dangerous owing to the rapidity of the current and the great masses of rock that are brought down in the bed of the stream, causing the ford to constantly change. It is only in November when the water is at its lowest that the river is fordable ; in the spring there is no possibility of passing it anywhere in this neigh bourhood except on rafts. The Kizl Ozan now breaks through a terrific chasm in the Ang&ran mountains, and afterwards runs north about 10 miles to the extremity of the strong defile called Darband, where it inclines a little to the east for 8 miles and passes the village of Kara Bata. Proceeding in the same direction 6 miles beyond this place, it receives at Yengaja the Zanjan river, which arrives by a. north-west course of about 70 miles from the plain of Sultania, passing the town of that name ; their united waters run nearly north along the deep valley east of Miana, in which at about 2 miles north-east it receives a considerable tributary bearing the name of that town. Soon after receiving the Miana, the main trunk forces a passage through the west branch of the Masula Range. At about 3 miles below Maman, which is below Miana, the river runs through a very strong defile, and for two miles and a half the road along it is very difficult and dangerous ; 3 miles from Maman there is an easy ford over the river, forming a defile barely practicable for loaded cattle. It is here only a shallow and narrow river ; but in the spring, from April to July, the melting of the snow renders it passable only where bridges and ferries are established. The road is here confined by high mountains, which sometimes oblige it to quit its banks, but it is generally practicable for troops, and a carriage road could 265 2 K KIZ easily be made. The water at this point is rather brackish, though used by the inhabitants, and thence the river takes a south-east course along the plain lying between these mountains and the east branch of the same name. The river then runs through a broad valley covered with brushwood and divides into many shallow branches. At 8 miles above Alwar it is crossed by a fine bridge of six arches. One mile below the bridget he mountains recede, leaving a small space of tableland which ends precipitately at the river on both sides. Three miles further the river is again shut in by high rocks, and the road has only been made practicable by blasting. The Sukus Chae joins it about 5 miles above Alwar on the left, and the Kabak Chae 2 miles below it. At Daram the river is only fordable when very low, and even then not without difficulty. It has here a velocity of about 2 miles an hour. Monteith men- tions that the prince of Zanjan had begun a bridge over it at this point. Near Menjil the trunk formed by the west affluents receives the Shahrud or east branch which comes from the borders of Mazandaran. The Kizl Ozan is crossed by a bridge at Menjil; 5 miles above the village of Kankand there is a very difficult, dangerous, and constantly changing ford in the dry season. The meeting of these arms gives a new direction to the Kizl Ozan, which nearly form a right angle with each of its two branches, as it forces the passage of Mastsla through the defile of Rudbar and the narrow valley of Rustam- abad. Having traversed Gllan the Sufed Riid as it is now called finally enters the Caspian Sea, 57 miles east of Resht, after a north-east course of nearly 490 miles from its source. The bed of this river is generally many hundred feet below the surface of the adjoining country. The road from Zanjan to Resht leads along its bank, and is described by Sutherland as one of the grandest and most terrific scenes he ever witnessed. The frightful roar of the waters is heard at a distance, and an unwary step would instantaneously precipitate the traveller into the gulf below ; but near the pass of Rudbar it becomes less deep, and when passing through the plain of Ghllan, the banks of the river are low and swampy, and the current moderate. At its mouth the river is of great breadth and of considerable depth within the bar. A great sturgeon fishery has been established here, which produces about 200 tons of caviar in a month, all of which is exported to Russia. Fifteen miles from the sea the Sufed Rud divides into two branches, forming an extensive island or delta. From the south branch another stream or canal again separates itself, and running parallel with the coast through several small lagoons reaches Langarud. This was formerly navigable for boats, but is now- obstructed by numerous shallows, and is seldom, if ever, used. The navigation is however impeded by the existence of a bar at the entrance in which there is only a depth of water varying from 3 to 7 feet. The valley is sometimes disagreeably hot, but the valley of the Kizl Ozan has excellent pasturage, and some considerable tracts of cultivated land in it. From Menjil it forms the boundary between the provinces of Azarbljan and Irak Ajaml. It was on the banks of this river that Mr. Brown, the traveller, was mur- dered iu 1810. Holmes gives the following calculation of the probable annual produce and gross value of the sturgeon fishery at the mouth of the Kizl Ozan :— "With regard to the total annual produce of this fishery, the number of fish taken, which is stated at 125,000, I consider to be tolerably correct, 2G6 KIZ at least as far as can be expected where no accounts are kept ; for making a rough calculation on what we were informed were the average numbers taken daily at different times of the season, it comes out thus :"— Men. Days. Fish. February ... from 100 to 800 per day 400 for 28 11,200 March .. „ 800 „ 2,000 „ 1,400 „ 31 43,400 April ... „ 3,500 „ 3,800 „ 3,650 „ 15 54,750 Kemainder of the year 4 „ 8 „ 6 „ 291 = = 1,746 Deduct consumed by Fishermen ,., 746 1,000 1,10,350 giving a difference of 15,000, according as the season may be good or bad. " Again, we were told that seven or eight ships were loaded annually ; that one of these had three masts and carried about 40,000 fish, besides 20 or 30 barrels of caviare, but that the rest were smaller with two masts, and took only about 12,000 a piece, thus : — Fish. 1 Vessel carries ... ... ... 40,000 7 Vessels, 12,000 each ... ... ... 84,000 8 1,24,000 which gives, as nearly as possible, the original number; and supposing that sometimes there were only six of the smaller vessels, it would come to something less than 2,000 of the above calculation of 1,10,350. " It is impossible to say what may be the value of this fishery to the lessee, as I am totally ignorant of the expenses incurred : an approximate guess may, however, be formed of its gross amount. " There is difficulty in ascertaining the value of the salt fish, as they are sold by weight and no accounts of it are kept. Eoughly calculating, however, by the burden of the vessels employed, it may be something near the following : — Tons. Poots. 7 Ships of 3,000 poots ... ... 50 = 21,000 1 „ „ 10,000 „ ... ... 166 = 10,000 31,000 " Taking the average price — Poots. Tons. 31,000 at 4 kerans = 12,400 The value of the caviare may be more correctly ascertained : the annual quantity is from 300 to 350 casks, say 325 casks at 40 poots = 13,000 at 2 „ = 26,000 The isinglass is 250 „ 32 „ 8,000 46,000 Total gross value of the produce of the fishery for one year before the expenses are deducted ... ... ... ...£23,200 " In English weight the quantity amounts to — fts. s . d. Fish ... 1,108,250, and sells at Astrachan for li per lb Caviare ... 464,750 „ „ „ o 6£ „ Isinglass ... 8,937 „ „ „ 8 11 The Russian poot or pood is calculated at 35f lbs. English." 267 KOG KOGAN— Lat. Long. E'ev. A village in Pars, Persia, north-west of Shiraz, situated in the plain of Ujan. There is a ruined caravanserae here. KOHASHLUK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, on the road from Shah Rud to Astrabad. This road is the best, but owing to plundering bands of Turkmans is con- sidered unsafe. {Clerk.) KOH BURAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Kirman, Persia, which lies in the mountains east south-east of Bafk.— (Abbott.) KOHDASHT— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Luristan, Persia, north-west of Khoramabad. (Chesney.) KOH EILAG— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of hills in Irak Ajami, Persia, to the north of the road from Tehran to Eivan-i-Kef. It is parallel to the Elburz, and is probably a spur of that range. (Clerk.) KOHGELU— A tribe of Persia who inhabit the mountains at the source of the Jarahi river between longitude 50° — 51°. They adjoin the Bakhtlaris, and occupy the mountains to the south of the valley of Mai Daud as far as Basht, a village on the road between Behbahan and Shiraz. The KohgelQ consider themselves as distinct from the Bakhtlaris, having always lived, under different chiefs and under a different government to that of Shiraz. Their dialect nevertheless differs little from that of the Bakhtlaris, and their manners, customs, character, and religion are the same, They are divided into the following tribes : — fBoher Ahmad. C^nichah Smanziari. VCherflmi. TeibT (Ahmadi. Behmel11 (.Kalakal. Bawi ... ... ... ... ... fKohmarah. Yusafl... ... ... ... ...]SherAli. Agajeri ... ... ... ... (.Shahroowee. Tekajeri ... ... ... ... Telah Kuri. Geghatine ... ... ... ... Jamah BuzurgT. Magdeli ... ... ... ... Afshar. The Kohgelu are under the governor of Behbahan, and chiefly inhabit the western part of the great chain of hills : their summer and winter quarters are little more than a transition from the fort to the summit of the mountains. A description of the larger divisions of this tribe will be found under their own titles, viz., Bamehi, Peilli. • These tribes are estimated at from 15 to 20,000 families, and they can raise 10,000 well armed men amongst them. Shiel, however, gives a somewhat different list from the above — Kohmari '.'.'. ± 800 ] Live near the Mamasennls. Boveir ... 2,000? T . .„,.._ , , , , Churumi ... 1,000) Llve m Kohgiluza, but are a broken tribe. 268 KOG— KOH Thewi . 1,000 Tents, A broken tribe. Dnshmanziari 500 » Yusafi 400 ,» Tarabi ,. 1,000 „ A rich tribe. Behmehi ,. 2,500 j» SherAli .") Shahrui . £ 1,000 „ Live between Earn Hormaz and Shastar. Malahmadi .5 Agajari_ .) Saghatai . y 1,000 „ Rich. Kishtil .1 TilaKohi •) Bilehhi . [ 1,000 „ Leks. Jamah Buzurgi .. J Nafr 850 „ Tarks ; roam through different parts of Pars. Beharlu . 1,230 tents. This estimate makes them up to about 15,500. Pelly again only estimates them at 4,000 to 5,000 households divided into four tribes : — Boveir, Ahmadi, Bahman Bawl and KuwI. (Layard — SAiel — Malcolm — Kinneir — Pelly.) KOH HAZAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of hills in Kirman, Persia, west by north of Bam and about 42 miles distant. {Abbott.) KOH-I-CHEHL-NA-BALIGHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A peak of the Bakhtiarl mountains in Luristan, Persia, to the north-west of Khoramabad and the source of the Kashghan and the Dizful rivers. {Rawlinson.) KOH-I-FEDALAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A remarkable hill on the Bakhtiarl range of mountains in KhuzistiSn, Persia, overhanging Shustar. It is composed of limestone. [Layard — Selby.) KOH-I-GECH— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of hills in Persia, a spur of the Bakhtiarl mountains which forms the watershed between the rivers Murdefil and Ab-i-Shorash, and is termi- nated by the Karun beyond Beitavand. {DeBode.) KOH-I-GIRD— Lat. Long. Elev. A ridge, south spur from the Bakhtiarl mountains in Persia, between the Abizal river and Khoramabad. There is a pass over it which is barely practicable for laden animals. (Rawlinson.) KOH-I-HAFTAD-PELtJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A peak on the Bakhtiarl mountains, Luristan, Persia, to the south of Khoramabad. The range is here formed of two ridges between which there is some open tableland, which is one of the summer quarters of the Gailaks of the tribe of Dirikawand. From the summit of the north ridge the town of Khoramabad is visible. {Rawlinson.) KOH-I-MOBAKAK— Lat. 57° 19' 55". Long. 25° 51' 55". Elev. A cape on the coast of Kirman, Persia, west of Cape Jask. It is a low sandy point which juts out into the sea for some way, and has on it a high rock perforated about the centre, which, when at a distance, appears like an island rising out of the water on account of the lowness of the land. {Kempthome-zrBrucks.) 269 KOH KOH-I-MUMIAE— Lat. Long. Elev. A hill in Fare, Persia, about 20 miles west of Darab. A blackish bituminous matter issues from the rock here, which is regarded by the Persians as a sovereign remedy for cuts, bruises and even fractures, but it really has no superior qualities to other bitumen. (Ouseley.) KOH-I-NIMAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A hill in Irak Ajami, Persia, 12 miles north-west of Kflm. It is an isolated rocky mountain several hundred feet high, from which saline springs issue, form a marsh and pond around and leave a thick deposit of salt. The interstices and gullies of the hill are likewise full of salt, which appears to impregnate, and perhaps forms the interior mass of the hill. Large slabs of this mineral are removed for general use. The hill is a natural curiosity well worth visiting. It is regarded with supersti- tious feeling by the natives, who say that " he who goes to it returneth not." The probability is that the ascent at least in parts may be rendered dangerous by the boggy and infirm nature of the soil, and accidents occurring have given rise to the superstition. (Abbott.) KOH-I-TIMUR— Lat. Long. Elev. A small range of hills in Kirman, Persia, bounding the plain of Malikabad on the north-east. (Abbott.) KOH-I-ZARD— Lat. Long. Elev. A peak of the Bakhtlarl mountains in Persia to the south-west of Ispahan, which is the source of the Karun and Zamdarud rivers. (Selby.) KOH KAZAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A high range of hills in Kirman, Persia. (Abbott.) KOH KHOJA MALI— Lat. Long. Elev. A high range of mountains in Fars, Persia, bearing north-north-west from the Neyriz lake about 35 miles distant. (Abbott.) KOHMEREH— Lat. Long. Elev. See DasM-i-Bir. KOHNA KURGAN— Lat. Long.* Elev. A village in Pars, Persia, on the road between Shiraz and Isfahan, 128 miles from the former and 159 from the latter. There is a ruined caravanserae here, but no water at all according to Dr. Sutherland, though Captain Clerk says there is a small spring of water. No provisions are procurable. (Sutherland — Clerk.) KOH PAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of the Isfahan province of Persia, situated some 25 miles east of Isfahan. (Abbott) KOH PANJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A high range of hills in Kirman, Persia. (Abbott.) KOH PAYEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Kirman, Persia, situated about 10 miles east of Kirman, on the ■" road to Khflbbes. (Abbott.) KOH RUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 75 miles from Isfahan, on the road to Tehran. It is justly celebrated as one of the pleasantest places in Persia. I It contains about 300 houses, and is situate on the steep sides of a hill, so that the houses almost seem to stand upon one another. Below is the cara- vanserae, and near it, on rising ground, the remains of an old castle. Between various eminences the valley appears richly cultivated and finely diversified 270 KOH— KON \|ith gardens fertilized by a stream which abundantly supplies it with water, Jad causes a large yield of most admirable fruit. / The village and gardens of Kohrud completely command the road, and /would be a very difficult position to force. The pass of Kohrud lies to the (north of this village. The road is bad and stony. On the top of the pass is an artificial lake, about one-fourth mile long, of clear water, formed by damming up the river. The range over which this pass lies is a spur from mount Elvand ; it is crossed again on the road from Isfahan to Yezd, and continues to the south of Yezd, and is probably eventually lost in the desert towards Seistan. ^~ ( Ouseley — Morier — Clerk — Taylor — Smith.) KOH SHASH PIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A peak in Persia which bears north 42° west from the village of Zargun, which is about 1 8 miles east of Shiraz. It is usually covered with snow, and near it are some celebrated springs of water. {Morier.) KOLOL— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bushahr district, Ears, Persia. It has 100 houses, and pays 100 tomans revenue. (Felly.) KOMIRIJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 77 miles on the road from Bushahr to Shiraz. It is situated on a fine plain at the foot of some hills called the Koh-i-nimak. It has 300 houses built of stone, a fort, and a ruined serae. Very few sup- plies are procurable, but forage is abundant, and fuel is obtainable from the nomads in the vicinity. The water at this is very brackish, but there is one passable well. Caravans usually avoid this place, but Pelly considers its air preferable to that of Kisht. It is said to be celebrated for its oranges. (Ouseley — Jones — Pelly — Clerk — Taylor.) KOMAT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khnzistan, Persia, on the bank of the Dizful river, between Band-i-Kir and Dizful. It has a small mud fort, and is the first met with going up stream from Band-i-Kir. It is inhabited by All Kathir Arabs, and would be a suitable site for a depot of fuel for the navigation of the river. (Selby.) KOMRCD— Lat. Long. Elev. A division of the district of Kum in Irak Ajami, Persia. (Kinneir — Abbott.) KONAK KERRAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, north of Ardebil, on left bank of the Kara Su. (Morier.) KON AR Kt7— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Behbahan district of Khuzistan, Persia, on the plain of Zeitun. (Layard.) KONAS1R— -Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the island of Kishm, Persian Gulf, situated about three-fourths mile above point Naktina. It is inhabited by few families of fishermen and wood-cutters. (Brucks.) KONGUN— Lat. 27° 49' 20". Long. 52° 8' 45". Elev. A port on the coast of Fars, Persia, east of Cape Berdistan, formed by a deep *bay which here indents the coast. The town has about 1,400 inhabitants — Arabs of the Beni Hasn, Beni Khalid, Akrlya, Albus- Darif, Albuzareh, Alyia, Beni Amud, Abadali, Kashianaria and Nasflr tribes. Several of the finest bungalows in the Persian Gulf belong to this 271 KON— KOS port, and they carry on a very extensive trade principally as carriers to Bombay and the Malabar Coast, and to most of the ports of the Persian Gulf and Red Sea. The bay is perfectly sheltered from north-westerly winds by Cape Bardistan and the reefs of it, and partially from south-eastern by Ras-ul-Mara. The best anchorage is with the north-west tower of the town, north-east by compass, and Bardistan fort and the sugarloaf or conical hill nearly in one north 57° west in 4 or 4£ fathoms. Supplies of in- different cattle are procurable here and also excellent water and firewood. The town was formerly of more importance, having a population of some 6,000 or 7,000, and having been a Portuguese settlement in former years, the ruins of a factory and a half moon casemated battery are still stand- ing close to the water line, as are also the ruins of a breakwater. It was destroyed by the Dashti chiefs through the jealousy of its prosperity, but is now recovering itself in a measure. The whole country from Cape Bardistan to Asilil is under this place. Morier says that in his day the Shekh of Kongun could raise 2,000 cavalry. There is a road from this to Plrozabad, which is said to be practi- cable for guns. The town contains 6 to 7,000 inhabitants, and has an excellent roadstead, where a frigate may ride at safety in the most tempestuous weather. Some trade is carried on with Basrah, Maskat, and the different towns on the Persian and Arabian coasts. {Brucks — Morier — Jones — Pe%.) KONIYEH— Lat. 38° 30'. Long. Elev. A village in province of Azarbljan, Persia, in the slopes of the Sar-al-Bagh mountain near the sources of the Zab river. KONK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in LaristEn, Persia, on the coast of the Gulf and about 4 miles south-east of Lingah. There are the ruins of an old Portuguese fort at this place. Portions of what seems to have been the factory and a half moon casemated battery are still standing close to the water line, as also are the ruins of a breakwater. {Pelh/.) KORAK— A village in Persian Kurdistan, 22 miles south of Sehnah, on the road to Kirmanshah. It is situated in a small valley on a rivulet. [M. S. Boute) KORGO— An island in the Persian Gulf, off the coast of Fars, and about 1£ to 2 miles north of Karrak. It lies north and south, is 2£ miles long by half mile wide, contains about 2 square miles, is of a light sandy soil, and is surrounded by a reef for half mile wide. It has plenty of water, but not of so good a quality as that of Karrak; and although only occasionally inhabited is capable of being cultivated, and will produce both wheat and barley during the rainy season. It was minutely surveyed by Captain Goodfellow, Bombay Engineers, and plans of it furnished to Government. Korgo was the stronghold of the celebrated Arab pirate Mir Mohanna, whence he plundered all vessels going up or down the Gulf, and issued to surprise the Dutch garrison of Karrak. (Monleith — Brucks.) KOSHGEK— A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 101 miles on road from Hamadan to Tehran, from which it is 70 miles west-south-west. It contains 150 houses inhabited by the Beijal tribe of nomads. (Ferrier.) 272 KOT KOTAL-I-DtJKHTAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia, over a low range of hills between KazlrUn and the plain of Abdul. The ascent commences 9 miles from Kazlrun, and is about one in eight or ten. The road is excellent. At the foot of the mountain there is a causeway across a creek of the salb lake, called the Dasia Pareshan, which is said to be deep, but narrow. The road has been carried by stone steps directly up the face of the mountain, with a few very abrupt zigzags, and nothing can be more unpromising for baggage and artillery than the appearance of this passage. The road is said to have been constructed by a merchant, and appears to have been carried up the steepest face of the rock. Clerk, writing in 1857, says, the road leads down the precipitous sides of a lofty mountain ; the roadway for the most part being perfectly smooth, quicklime having been used in filling up and levelling the way after the stones had been laid down. A strong stone parapet, also finished with brick and lime, is continued for about 2 miles, the length of the roadway. So perpendicular is the mountain that a stone might be thrown from the summit to any part of this way. Monteith mentions having searched for a more practicable route, and having come to the conclusion that if another causeway or bridge were thrown across the creek, a tolerably easy road might be made about half a mile to the east of the present one, and then the hill up which the present road is carried would only require to be occupied by the flanking party in place of the high rocks to the west ; on the east the hills are not so rocky and are much easier of access. The ascent of this pass is not more than a mile, after which a much easier descent leads to the valley of Abdul. DeBode says the following circuit may be made on the road from Bushahr to Shiraz to avoid the descent of this pass, which is terrible for a train of artillery : — On descending Plr-i-Zan turn to the right through the valley of Dasht-I- Bir of Abdul, cross the plain of Chanoshjan which communicates with it, and thence pass into that of Shahpflr which forms part of the vale of Kazl- run. This circuitous road has the shape of a horse-shoe, and presents no obstacles for the transit of baggage, but it is 45 miles in length, while the other is only about 15 or 16 miles. Clerk also thinks that the road, instead of scaling the highest and most precipitous mountain of the range, might have avoided this pass by going a little more to the south ; and Taylor men- tions a road that goes from Kazlrun by the Jany-i-Turkan, and striking north-west passes the village of Nad tin about half-way. This road is longer, 48 miles, the one by the pass being 32 only. Rich describes the road as most skilfully constructed, buttressed, levelled, and parapetted so as to alarm the most timid, and broad enough to allow of several mules abreast. It was in thorough repair and, he considered, almost worth coming to see. {Monteith — DeBode — Taylor — Clerk — Hardy.) KOTAL-I-KfrMARIJ— Lat. Long. Eelv. A pass in Fars, Persia, 85 miles, on the road from Bushahr to Shiraz. It is described as very steep, and obstructed by fragments of rock fallen from the mountain's side, about which the road winds, sometimes through chasms so narrow as scarcely to admit a loaded mule, and at many turns impending ' over torrents and abysses where one false step must precipitate the traveller into destruction. It is 1,400 feet above the plain below. The ascent takes nearly five hours by a narrow precipitous road supported by a wall on the lower side, and altogether so difficult that if adequately defended, it could 273 2 l KOT— KUB scarcely be forced by an army till turned by another road, but guns have been carried across it. (Ouseley — Monteith — Chesney.) KOTAL-I-MALU— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia, 63 miles, on the road from Btishahr to KazIrQn. From the right bank of the river, about 7 miles from Dalaki, the ascent commences, and at first is easy for two miles : thence for two miles it is diffi- cult and steep, the road zigzagging shortly up over slippery masses of rock and stone, the last part being exceedingly rugged and difficult. In forcing this pass, it would be necessary to occupy the rocky heights on both sides. For about half mile the road is tolerably good, and Monteith thinks that by throwing a bridge of date trees across, and passing over from the right to the left side of the defile, a much easier path might be opened. The name Kotal-i-Malu is not universally used, several other names being bestowed according to the fancy of the people. {Clerk — Monteith.) KOTAL-I-PIRZAN— Lat. Long. Elev. 7,500. A pass in Fars, Persia, between Abdm and Dasht-i-Arjan, 38 miles south of Shiraz. It is the longest of all the passes on the Bushahr and Shiraz road, but is much more practicable than any of the others. Monteith thinks it would not be necessary to dismount artillery, though the guns would require the assistance of soldiers to drag them up the steep ascent, a dis- tance of nearly 3 miles. About half-way up the pass is the serae of Mian Kotal, where travellers can stop. {Ouseley — Monteith — Petty — Sutherland — St. John.) KOTASHA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on right bank of the Jarahl river. It has a few reed huts and a knot of date trees. (Colvile.) KOTTAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bushahr district of Fars, Persia. It has 150 houses. {Petty.) KOULBAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, one mile west of the boundary of that province from that of Astrabad. {Holmes.) KOWAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 27 miles from Shiraz, on the road to Flrozabad, from which it is 24 miles distant. There is a caravanserai here, and a few supplies of grain and slaughter cattle are procurable. {Jones.) KOZANIS— A wandering tribe of Arab descent who inhabit the vicinity of Tabasin, Khorasan (Persia). KRT3K — Lat. Long. Elev. A town, the capital of the district of Nurmanshahr in Barman, Persia. The town is surrounded by a wall, and the fort is quadrangular, with a deep ditch, the walls high and in good repair, and flanked with bastions and with only one gate. {Kinneir.) KtJBAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A place in MazSndaraD, Persia, where there are silver, copper, and lead mines, which are said to be well worth working. {Eastwick.) KUBOLIK-Lat. Long. Elev. A ^ village i in Azarbljan, Persia, on the bank of the Kizl Ozan below Miana. (Monteith.) 274 KUC— KUL KtJCHAN—Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khorasan, Persia, 80 miles north-west of Mashad. It is situated in a valley about 12 to 20 miles broad, at an elevation of 4,000 feet. The country is generally bleak and bare, and the hills are destitute of wood or even brushwood ; but there are some verdant spots under the hills where the finest fruit is produced. Burnes visited just after it had been stormed by the troops of Abbas Mirza, and says with regard to it : — " Nothing could be more gloomy than the walls of the town : the parapet had been nearly dismantled j some of the towers had been blown up and all were battered. The ditch was of a most formidable nature, about 35 feet deep and 20 feet broad, narrowing towards the bottom. It is a strong fortress, about a mile and a half in circumference." (Burnes.) KCCHI ISFAHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ghilan, Persia, about 10 miles east of Resht. The houses are scattered about in the forest, and all that is visible of the village is the bazaar, consisting of two small rows of shops between which the road passes. (Holmes.) KUGU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 15 miles south of Jaruft. It is a small place of reed huts. (Smith.) KCJUR— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Mazandaran, Persia, which extends along the coast of the Caspian from the Chalous to the Sulardeh. Its revenue amounts to about £900. It is inhabited by about 2,000 families of Abdul Malakis from the neighbourhood of Shiraz. This is a nomadic tribe, but they have no tents and inhabit different villages, moving from one to the other as they find convenient. They keep cattle, but employ themselves as well in the culti- vation of the soil, and furnish a quota of mounted men in lieu of being subject to taxation. (Holmes) KtJLA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 32 miles from ShirSz. This village produces the grape from which the celebrated wine of Shiraz is made. This wine is exported to many places. Some of the vineyards are said to be 1,000 years old. The inhabitants are warlike and trade a good deal in charcoal. (Pelly.) KfJLBAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of the province of Fars, Persia, 32 miles east of Shiraz, at the south-west corner of Lake Neyriz. It possesses about 100 villages and hamlets, most of them depending on the water obtained from the Kur by means of five bunds or dams thrown across it. This district is one of the most fertile in the country, producing abundance of rice, barley, wheat, tobacco, and some cotton. The cultivation of rice in this plain is inconceivably great, and it is admitted to be by far the richest and cheapest in the Persian empire. The greatest part of the wine, known by the name of Shiraz wine, is made here. It extends east and west from Pul-i-Talkh to Band Amir about 40 miles, and north and south about 15 miles. (K. Abbott — Pottinger) KCLEJAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Ardebll division of the Kum district of Irak AjamT, Persia. (K. Abbott.) 275 KUL— KUM KULLIGA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajaml, Persia, on right bank of the Kizl Ozan, 9 miles below junction of the Zanjan river. [Monteith.) KUM— Lat. 34° 45' ; Long. 50° 29' ; Elev. A town in Irak Ajaml, Persia, 80 miles, oa the road from Tehran to Ispahan, situated on an extensive plain on the banks of the small river Gonsir. Kum is remarkable for three things — its numerous priests, its gilded cupola, and its ruins. The greater part of the inhabitants are Syads, and the tomb of the sister of Imam Reza forms a great object of pilgrimge to all Shiss. This is one of the most celebrated sanctuaries in Persia, and Shias fre- quently fly to it for shelter. It is said that the tomb and the bar of the grate which surround it are of solid silver, and that its gates are plated with gold, upon which are inscribed verses of the Koran. All around the tomb are hung up in great display various offerings, consisting of pieces of jewellery, arms, rich apparel, and other things that are accounted scarce and precious. Kiim was long celebrated for its silk, but having been taken by the Afghans in their invasion of Persia in 1772, it was completely destroyed, and, though part of it has been rebuilt, it has the appearance of a vast ruin. Its popu- lation may amount to about 12,000 souls, but this only represents the permanent population, the number of strangers in it is considerable, and 20,000 is a more correct estimate. It is enclosed within walls, now in a very dilapidated state, with a ditch outside. Like most Persian towns it is in ruins, but its bazaars are still considerable. It has about 400 shops, of which thirty-seven are appropriated chiefly to the sale of Manchester goods. It is not at all a commercial or manufacturing town, yet there are about 20 caravanserais, generally small ones. China-wares of cheap quality and pottery are made at Kum ; its jars for cooling water are much esteemed. The climate appears to be salubrious, though very warm in summer, and the harvest is reaped about 20 days earlier than at Tehran. The water at this place is slightly brackish. The Syads of Rum are said not to abhor spirituous liquor as they ought, they keep large supplies in their houses as a remedy, so they say, against scorpion bites. The districts belonging to Kum are not very populous or productive. They extend north and south from Sadabad, 7 miles north of Pul-I-Dallak, to Shorab, 42 miles, and east and west about 25 miles : their names are Vazkerud, Komriid, Jasb, and Garpan, containing about 33 villages. In former days it comprehended the districts of Tafresh, Ferahan, and Kezaz, in addition to those abovemeutioned. The productions of the villages around Kum consist of various fruits, among which is a superior quality of melon, barley, wheat, rice, cotton, sesame seed, palma christi, tobacco of inferior quality, and a little good opium, but none of these are largely produced. Rice is not grown every year, but in seasons when much rain having fallen there is a prospect of obtaining a sufficiency of water, it is said to be of good quality, as is the cotton. A variety of small tribes, both inhabitants of the town and villages and of tents, are found in this country, but their numbers appear to be inconsiderable. (Morier — Kinneir — E. Abbott — Malcolm — Omeley— Taylor) KUM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village and mud fort in Kirman, Persia, 150 miles direct south-west of Kirman. A sect of the Afshar tribe usually encamps near it. It is 276 KUM— KUN situated on a plain which a little further north becomes a salt desert, and abounds with zebras and marmots. (K. Abbott.) KTJMA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Ispahan district, Irak Ajami, Persia, 12 miles from Ispahan, on the road to Shiiaz. (M. 8. Boute.) KtJMABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A small walled village in Kirman, Persia, 13 miles north-west of Kirman. (K. Abbott.) KtJMABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A small walled village in Kirman, Persia, 30 miles from Kirman, on the Yezd road. (Abbott.) KUMSHA— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in the Ispahan district, Persia, on the road from Ispahan to Shiraz. It is situated on an alluvial plain, and is a small but flourishing town of rectangular form, with mud walls, gates, and some remains of a ditch. It contains about 600 houses. The defences are of a very flimsy nature. Supplies of all kinds are abundant. There is a post-house within the walls of the town. There is a manufacture of cloth in Kumsha called ' kaduck/ a better sort of that coarse linen called ' karba. J The plain of Kumsha has a length of 50 miles by a breadth of 16, and contains some 40 mud-built villages round each for a distance; there is cultivation. (Omeley — Morier — Taylor — Clerk — Jones.) KCNAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, about midway between Shustar and Dizful. (Layard.) KUNAR-I-SIAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 15 miles from Flrozabad, on the road to Kono-un. This is in winter a favourite resort of the nomadic tribes from its mild climate. There are some plane trees. Water is procured from wells. (Jones.) KUNAR TAKHT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, situated in the middle of the plain of Kisht, 61 miles from Bushahr and 3 1 miles from Kazirun. The village is inhabited by nomads. Supplies in abundance can be procured from the neighbouring villages. The water in the wells at this place is brackish ; good water, however, is pro- curable from a spring 2 miles distant. Draught cattle are procurable in the neighbourhood. There is a caravanserai here with an arched gateway leading into a yard, round which are rooms for travellers, and behind them stalls, and there is also a small suite of rooms over the gateway. In the centre of the yard is an elevated platform, the roof of a subterraneous chamber called "Zer Zamin," to which travellers retire during the great heat of summer. (Monteith — Clerk — M. 8. Route — Jones — Morier. J KUNDERE— Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the plain of Rudbar, Kirman, Persia, with a small fort (K. Abbott.) KONG— Lat. 26° 34' 40"; Long. 55° 1' 30" ; Elev. A village on the coast of Luristan, Persia. It is now in ruins but was formerly a flourishing place. The Portuguese had a factory here' when in power in the Gulf Good water is easily procurable. Here vessels lay near the shore in six tathoms. (Brucks.J J 277 KUN— KUT KUNG-Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Pars, Persia, north of Shlraz. The ruins of a town are here. The inhabitants are all Sunls. (Petty.) KUPA—Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Ispahan district, Persia, 50 miles east of Ispahan on the road to Yezd. It is a small town enclosed by a substantial wall with flanking towers, and probably contains 400 houses. The caravanserai at this place is one of the finest in Persia. The foundations are of stone, and the superstruc- ture, which is in good repairs, of hard burnt brick. The entrance and a new tank in front of it are both handsome buildings. Over the gateway there are large open upper rooms for the use of travellers in summer. (Smith.) KUR-AB— Lat Long. Elev. A river of Fars, Persia, which is a tributary of the Aras or Band Amir river. (Chesney.) KURDISTAN— See JardM. KURDMAHALA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, on the bank of a torrent of the same name, 1\ miles, on the road from Gez to Astarabad, from which it is 23 miles. It is a large village, containing a population of not less than 1,000 souls, but little of it can be seen, for the houses are scattered in groups of two or three among a great extent of jungle, and each house is surrounded by a fence of logs and brushwood. It boasts of a college (Madrissa) and no less than two baths. (Holmes — Fraser.J KURDS OP KHORASAN— A tribe of Khorasan, Persia, branches of the people of this name who inhabit Kurdistan. They were brought by Shah Ismail from Kurdistan, and settled on the eastern frontier of Persia, to check the inroads of the Turkmans. They then consisted of 4,000 houses, which now have increased to 50,000. They are formidable both on account of their numbers and bravery. They retain much of their language, although they have quitted their characteristic dress and adopted that of Persia. Their principal places to the eastward are Burujard, Khabushan, Isferayin, China- ran, and Daragaz. Many live in tents and some in houses. They are sub-divided into Shadllu, Kara-Cherehlu, and Yezidls, and are still famous for their thieving and plundering talents. {Fraser — Morier.) KUREHlM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khalkhal district, Azarbijan, Persia, about 18 miles south of Ardebil, situated in a cultivated country. The vicinity is much frequented by nomads, whose cattle gra z e on the surrounding hills. (Morier.) KtJR KUT— Lat. Long. Elev. A peak on the ridge in the Kurdish district of Khorasan, Persia, which divides the Gurgan from the plain to the south. It is the loftiest and most rugged mountain in this part of the country, it is destitute of forest timber, but is more or less thickly sprinkled with tufts of arborvitse, thorns, barberry bushes, and a sort of dwarf maple. Fraser spells it Q'ooq'ood. KUT ABDULA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in KhQzistan, Persia, on the bank of the Karun, between Ahwaz and Ishmalliah. (Layard.) 278 L. LADI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 137 miles south-east of Rahlmabad, 67 miles north-west of Banptir, on the road between them. It is situated in quite a forest of tamarisk and thorn tree, some of fair size and appearance. Flocks are numerous here, and there is good grazing around for camel. The inhabitants are poor Biloch shepherds. (Goldsmid.) LAFT— Lat. 26°53'. Long. 55°5ri0"; Elev._ A town at the north-west point of the island of Kishm in the Persian Gulf. It is built on the side of a hill and surrounded by a wall, and, on account of its being situated close to a narrow tortuous channel full of shoals, is a position of some strength. It contains about 400 to 500 inhabitants, who are entirely dependent on the trade in wood, which they collect on the neighbouring islands and export to all parts of the gulf. Drinking water is here principally obtained from vaulted rain-water tanks. In the fort, however, there are also several wells cut deep through the sandstone, from which water is obtainable when the tanks are dry. It is the residence of the principal Shekh in the island. It was once the stronghold of the Jowasimi pirates, and in 1809, the Bombay Government despatched an expedition against it under Colonel Smith and Captain Wainwright. The pirates beat back with considerable loss the storming party which landed, but surrendered when the ships came close in and battered their walls. The town was then completely destroyed, and it has since remained in the hands of the Imam of Maskat. The channel is scarcely \ mile wide, but there is safe anchorage in it for a large vessel in 4i fathoms, where she may be perfectly sheltered and completely land-locked. {Kemptkorne — Whitelock — Bruchs — Petty!) LAGHEREH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Yezd district, Persia, 120 miles from Yezd, 80 miles from Ispahan, on the road between them. [Smith) . LAHIJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Azarbijan, Persia, at the sources of the lesser Zab river. It is a fine open plain abundantly watered, and possessing a rich fertile soil most favorable to agriculture. This district, being on the immediate frontier of Turkey and Persia, has been inhabited at different times by tribes subject to either government. It has belonged successively to the Zerza, Baban, Mikri, Bilbas, and Kurds, and its present condition partakes of this anomalous nature ; for, though acknow- ledged as a Mikri possession, and though the proprietorship of the lands belongs to the Mikri chiefs, it is inhabited almost exclusively by the Bilbas, a tribe of Turkish Kurdistan. The capital of Lahijan is Peshwa. [Bawlinson.) LAHIJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Ghllan, Persia, 25 miles east of Resht, on the right bank of the Langarud. It is a pleasantly situated town, and the country is open and dry for which reason people often move to it from Resht for change of air. It 279 Missing Page Missing Page LAR commodious and neatly furnished, each having a "badgir" and "sardab." There are numerous well-constructed cisterns in the town for collecting the rain-water. A canal has also lately been constructed round the city which fills these cisterns, and which also serves to fill the ditch for the defence of the city. Supplies of the common sorts are fairly abundant here. Camels are procurable in some numbers in the district. The residence of the Governor is in the middle of the city, and is sur- rounded by a strong wall flanked with towers. The celebrated castle of Lar, now in ruins, is situated on the summit of a hill immediately behind the town, and is said by the Persians to have been impregnable. Rain being the only water here in use, is collected during the wet season in large cisterns. (Kinneir — Chesney — telly — Jones.) LAR— A mountain valley of the Elburz range, which drains towards Mazandaran. It is famous for its air and grass, which tempt the wandering tribes to make it one of their favourite summer quarters. (Fraser.) LARAK— Lat. 26° 53' 30"; Long. 54° 25' 10". An island in the Persian Gulf, 10 miles south of Ormaz. It is about 15 miles in circumference. A rocky ledge, extending to the average width of half a mile, surrounds Larak ; beyond that the water suddenly deepens over a bottom of rocks and sand to 18 or 20 fathoms. The island, says Whitlock, has neither harbour nor any secure anchorage near it, so that from whatever quarter the wind may blow the sea rises and breaks with much fury over the rocks which gird its shore. It is therefore highly dangerous to land in unsettled weather, and for this reason Larak is rarely visited. Bracks, however, says good anchorage may be found under it in a north-western or south-eastern direction. It is inhabited by a few fishermen, who, to the number of about 100, reside in wretched huts within the walls of an extensive fort on the north side. They live together as one family, and are a poor and insulated race, bearing some resemblance to the tribe who reside in the vicinity of Ras Mussendom, with whom, and in this they are singular, they maintain a friendly intercourse. They have a great aversion to mixing with their neighbours, and rarely ever visit the town of Kishm, though only 6 miles distant. They subsist on fish and dates. No part of the island is cultivated, and the few cattle they rear for the sake of their milk partake in general of the same food as their masters. There is very little water on this island. The island consists of ferruginous rocks, iron ores, and gypsum, with brine springs. On the north and north-east it contains limestone. (Whitelock — Kinneir — Fraser — Malcolm — Brucks.) LARIJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Mazandaran, Persia, which commences north from Paras and extends to a distaace of 7 miles south of Ask, its capital. A more impenetrable valley could not easily be found. It is said to con- tain 72 villages, and furnishes 500 matchlockmen (Tofangchis) and 500 regular soldiers (Sarbaz) to the Government. It is so completely enclosed by mountains and narrow gorges as to be almost inaccessible to an invader. On this account the chief and his dependants are somewhat unmanageable. At every succession to the throne, or other time of com- motion, they generally revolt and refuse to pay revenue. Larijan is equi- 282 LAR— LAS distant between Amol and Tehran. It is inhabited by about 5,000 families. {Stuart — Shiel — Holmes.) LARISTAN— Lat. 26° 30' to 28° 25'. Long. 52° 30' to 55° 50'. A province of Persia extending along the north shore of the Persian Gulf. It has Fars to the north-west and west, KirmHn to the north-east and east, and on the south the Persian Gulf. Its greatest length is 210 miles, and its greatest breadth 120. It is the poorest and least productive pro- vince in Persia. A range of mountains stretches along its north border. It is diversified with plains and mountains which extend to the sea. In the mountains are some fertile tracts which produce dates, other fruits and grain. The lower or southern country is an arid -desert, diversified by rocky hills and valleys of sand and salt, and so destitute of wholesome water that, were it not for the periodical rains which fill the cisterns of the natives and enable them to cultivate the date tree, together with a small quantity of wheat and barley, it would be quite uninhabitable. The coast is in the possession of different Arab tribes, who under the government of their own Shekhs maintain an independence and pay a trifling tribute to the Shah of Persia. They are chiefly pirates by profession and reside in small towns or mud forts scattered along the shore of the Gulf. The chief towns inland are Lar and Tarom, and those on the coast are Kongun Nakhilo, Charak, Mogu, Bostana and Linga. Most of the tribes of Laristan are an aboriginal race who speak a dialect of the Pehlivi. Shiel gives a list of a few of them, viz., Mezayan, so called from a town of this name. They number 300 tents and are rich in flocks and herds from which the lamb skins of Fars are taken. Tahunl, 60 tents, and Bekir 500 tents. Laristan was conquered by a Turkish Chief about 800 years ago, and remained an independent kingdom until the last of its sovereigns was dethroned and put to death by Shah Abbas the Great. [Kinneir — Malcolm — Shiel — CJiesney — Imperial Gazetteer) LARTIJAN -Lat. Long. Elev. A river in Ghilan, Persia, crossed between Rud-i-Sar and Ab-i-Garnz. (Holmes.) LAS B A— Lat. Long. Elev. An inlet in the coast of the Persian Gulf into which the river Jarahl f~ falls. The river here though very much reduced is still navigable for boats. ILASGIRD— \ A village in Khorasan, Persia, 102 miles on the road from Tehran to Dam- \ gan, from which it is 78 miles distant. It is prettily situated in the centre of fine table-land surrounded by gar- dens. It consists of a circular mud fortress, the walls of which are 80 feet high and 8 or 10 feet thick and solid, and a little above half their height is a row of doors like a ship's port-holes opening outwards on a pro- jecting wooden platform; over these again is another row of doors midway between the first row and the top of the wall. The fortress is entered on the east side through a small aperture which is closed by a huge stone weighing perhaps a ton, revolving on a pivot closed J by a bar as thick as a man's thigh. About 45 feet from the ground I outside there is a balcony, and all fifth is thrown thence, so that in | the course of years a rampart has been formed which the hardiest soldier I would hesitate to cross. It contains about 100 houses built one over the \ other and connected by arched passages and flights of steps in the 283 LAS— LIN most curious manner; and both, its interior construction and the continual buzz heard to proceed from it when at a little distance, remind one of a beehive. The whole community is contained within the fort, which seems to have been formerly surrounded by a deep ditch. The inhabitants sup- port themselves chiefly by gardening, and also raise a little wheat and barley. The revenue is nominally 90 kharwars of grain and £150 in money. The gardeners pay in money, and the husbandmen in grain. Lasgird is famous for its cheese, which is considered to be the best made in Persia. To the south-west of the fort there is a caravan serae-shah, and there * — is also a reservoir for rain-water, and a brackish stream. The melons of Lasgird are said to be inferior. Ferrier thinks the fort would garrison 2,000 men. Some of the inhabitants of this place are said to speak the Pehlevi language. Ten miles west of Lasgird is a ravine which marks the boundary between Khorasan and Irak. (Holmes — Gibbons— Ferrier^ — Clerk — Easlwick — Felly. J LAVARI— Lat, Long. Elev. A plain in the province of Khnzistan, Persia, lying between that of Shakr- ab and Beitavand, from which last it is divided by a low ridge of sand hills. It is a rich district, abounding chiefly in jujube trees. {Layard.) LEHROWI— Lat. Long. Elev. A division of the Bebahan district of Fars, Persia, which extends along the coast of the Persian Gulf from Hindian to Bandar Reg. The principal villages in it are Bandar Dilam, Gunawah, and Bandar Reg. It is separated from the district of Zeitun by a range of low sand hills. It produces little but corn and barley. It is, however, well suited to the cultivation of gram, but is ill-irrigated. (Layard.) LEMIR— A river of the Persian district of Talish in Azarbljan. (Holmes.) LEWANCHAI— A river in Ghilan, Persia, up the course of which lies the road to the Akgedak Pass. (Bawlinson.) LINGAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A town on the coast of Laristan, Persia, 25 miles north-west of Basidoh, in the island of Kishm, and south-east of Lar. It consists of a fort surrounded by an unwalled town of stone, flanked on either side along the shore line by a series of clusters of houses overhung with date trees. The roadstead is open, and though sheltered from the north- west is dangerous for shipping during the prevailing south-east and south-west winds ; but a solid masonry breakwater affords protection to small craft. No import or export duty is due in Lingah, and it is probably to this fact, and that of its geographical position having preserved the port from gov- ernmental interference, that its prosperity is hitherto due. At present the township, with its adjacent suburbs, may contain from 8,000 to 10,000 inhabitants, of whom the bulk are evidently Africans. The wealthier classes are Persianised Arabs, and some Persians also have been attracted from the upper country for labor on the spot, or as carriers into the interior. There are also some 20 Hindus residing in the place as agents for firms in Bombay and Karachi. It appears from the conversation of the merchants of the place that its little commercial importance is due to its being con- veniently situated as a point of agency for trade coming from India and seeking a market along the Arabian coast of the Persian Gulf, and to the 284 LIN Persian territory in the immediate neighbourhood of Lingah and towards Lar. Goods are landed and, if prices pay, are sold on the spot, aud are sent towards the interior at the risk of the purchaser. Lingah merchants consider the roads through the nomad haunts too insecure to permit of their trading themselves with the interior. It is, however, obvious that, unless owing to accidental circumstances, Lingah, from its geographical position and from its dangerous anchorage, would be quite unable to com- pete with the inland trade of Bashahr or Bandar Abbiss, and its statistics show that the bulk of its trade is with the maritime Arab ports, goods being re-shipped thither in small coasting craft according to demand and opportunity. Specie and pearls, and, perhaps, little salt fish, are the only returns from the Arab coast. About eight or ten boats are engaged at Lingah for the pearl fishery. There may be some 150 native craft of all sizes belonging to the people of the place, and it is remarkable that, although labor is cheap and sufficient in boat-building along the west coast of India, yet the builders at Lingah prefer to import their wood from India and build their ' buglas' on their own beach. A number of merchants from Lar and Jahrum reside here. Colonel Pelly gives the following statement of the Annual Export and Import Trade of Lingah : — Names of articles. Imported from India. Transhipped to the Oman coast. Sent to the interior. Balance consumed. Piece Goods... 600 bales 300 50 250 Sugar 300 bags 100 100 100 Sugarcandy 100 casks 50 10 40 Coffee 2,000 bags 1,500 50 450 Rice ... 100,000 „ 67,000 33,000 Iron 250 tons 150 50 50 Lamp oil ... 400 dubbas 300 100 Pepper 450 bags 350 100 Ginger 200 „ 150 50 Turmeric 300 „ 200 100 Cinnamon 50 boxes... 30 20 Cloves 20 bags 15 5 Cardamoms ... 600 fts 450 150 Indigo 25 cases 18 7 China-ware 60 boxes 40 20 Specie 20,000 rupees 20,000 285 LIN— LIW Names of articles. Brought from the interior. Exported to India. Exported to Jedda. Balance consumed. Tobacco 9,000 mauns 8,000 1,000 Almonds 22,000 „ 20,000 2,000 Eoses (dry) 1,200 „ 1,000 200 Cumminseeds 2,500 2,000 500 Cotton 6,000 6,000 Country produce — Wheat 200,000 „ 200,000 Barley 75,000 75,000 Dates 20,000 baskets 20,000 Pearls and specie exported from Lingah and the Oman coast to India amount to about £100,000. (Felly.) LINGAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Laristan, Persia, lying between the sea and the barren and precipitous mountains which lead up through Lar, and so on, to the Shiiaz road. It touches the*Shekhdom of Mogu on the north-west, and extends south-east almost to Bandar Molim. The produce of the district consists of dates and some barley and wheat, sufficient for home consumption. The Shekh of Lingah is an Arab, and claims to be a descendant of a family that emigrated to the Persian Gulf when the Arabs were at the height of their power at Baghdad. He is believed to be related to Ras-ul-Kheymah, chief on the opposite coast. {Petty.) LINJAN— Lat. Long. _ Elev. A district of the province of Irak Ajami, Persia, south of Ispahan. It is 70 miles in length and 40 miles in breadth, and is irrigated by canals cut from the ZaTndarud, and is covered with villages which are, surrounded with gardens and prodigious numbers of pigeon houses. The melons which are raised here from the dung of these pigeons are celebrated throughout Persia. (Kinneir) LISSAR— Lat. # Long. Elev. A ruined castle in the Talish district of Azarbijan, Persia, 2J miles from the west coast of the Caspian, and 9 miles above the debouchure of the Kerganarud. It is situated in a low hill, the whole summit of which it occupies, and its walls appear solidly built. A covered reservoir is in good preservation, the water of which is probably supplied by springs from the mountain. There is a river here called the Lissarchai, which is some- what dangerous on account of quicksands. (Monteith.) LIWAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 30 miles south of Tabrez. It is a large village with a remarkably verdant entourage, being completely surrounded 286 LOL— LUR by gardens and meadows and fields. The inhabitants are tall and muscular, and very well off. Near this place are some hot springs. ( Wagner.) LOLL- Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Khuzistan, Persia, on the banks of the Karun river. {Layard.) LORI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 54 miles on the road from Anar to Araebil, from which it is 35 miles. It stands embayed between two points of the high land, which here abruptly descends many hundred feet into an exten- sive plain covered with gardens and villages. {Holmes) LORT— Lat. Long. Elev A plain in Luristan, Persia, on the right bank of the Kerkhah river, 22 miles below its junction with the river of Kirrind. It is of great extent, sloping down gradually to the valley of the Kerkhah river, but it is badly supplied with water, and therefore thinly inhabited by the Pesh Koh branch of the Feilli Lur tribes. There is also a section of the Lurs of this name. {Bawlinson.) LtJJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khaf in the district of Khorasan, Persia, 3 miles west of Khaf, situated at the foot of the hills. {Clerk.) LUPHUR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ears, Persia, 18 miles north of Shiraz. It produces wheat, barley, and vegetables. (Petty.) LtJRDAGIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Luristan, Persia, on one of the branches of the Karun river. {Layard.) LURISTAN— A province of Persia that extends westward for about 270 miles, from the borders of Fars to those of Kirmanshah, with an ordinary width of about 70 miles, and a superficies of nearly 19,500 square miles. Being placed along the Bakhtlari range, it is chiefly mountainous, although there are some plains toward the opposite side which are well watered by the numerous affluents of the KarQn, the Dizful, and the Kerkhah rivers. It has a population of about 56,000 families composed of the Fail!. Luristan, says Raw lin son, is divided into two provinces, Luri BuzGrg and Luri Kuchak, the greater and the less Luristan. The former is the mountainous country of the Bakhtiaris, stretching from the frontiers of Fars to the river Dizful ; the latter is situat- ed between the river and the plains of Assyria, being bounded to the north and south by Kirmanshah and Stisiana. This province of Luri Kuchak is again divided into two districts, Pesh Koh and Ptisht-i-Koh, the country before and behind the mountains, referring of course to the great chain of Zagros. Between the twelfth and seventeenth centuries, the province of Luri Kuchak was governed by a race of independent Princes, who were named Atabegs. The last prince of this last royal race, Shah-Verdi Khan, was removed by Shah Abbas the Great, and the government was granted to the Chief of a rival tribe, Husen Khan, with almost unlimited authority, and with the title of Vah, in exchange for that of Atabeg ; his descendants have retained the title, which in Persia is almost equivalent to royalty; and 287 LUR though their power is now greatly weakened, they still affect a royal style in their manners and establishment. Owing to the intestine divisions of the family, Pesh Koh, which is by far the fairest portion of Luri Kuchak, has been wrested from them, and placed under the direct control of the Kirmanshah government. Pusht-i-Koh, however, still acknowledges the sway of the Vail. When the whole of Luri Ktichak was under the dominion of the Vails, all the tribes were included under the general deno- mination of Faili, the peculiar title of Huseu Khan's clan. At present, however, the inhabitants of Pesh Koh do not acknowledge the name in any way; they have a distinct classification of their own, and the title of Faili is applied alone to the tribes of Pusht-i-Koh, who are under the sway of the Vail. The maps, therefore^ are incorrect when they describe the whole of Liiri Kuchak as " a mountainous country inhabited by the Faili tribes." The list of the tribes of the Luri Kuchak is, according to Rawlinson, as follows : — Tribes. Sub-divisions. Number of Families Residence. Assess- ment of Great Di- visions. Divi- sions. Of each Tribe Of Grea * Divisior Summer. Winter. Remarks. Dilffin _ ' Kakawand ... Tuvetiwand Muminawand Rafsawand... Bajiniwand... 1 1 1 1 ! 15,000 1 f Khawah Harasim Hulllan fHnlflan J and 1 Koh V. Dasht Rudbar Chardawer 1 The Yuvetiwands and Muminawands supply at present a body of 360 infantry to the Crown. I Chuwarf ... j Khawah. Terhan f ' Hasanawand T Alishtar Jafdar Silaa'la-i Kuliwand ... >• 15,000 and Sefniarrah Pesh Koh. ' I Yusufawand Beshnuh ... J 36,000 - Khawah. Taf, near Khora- mabad fPushti- l Koh. 1 Bala Glriwa - Sakf Papl Dlrikawand ■ 6,000 Abistan^i Sar I Hard J Koh-i- -J Hafthad ] Pelhu ... Kir-A'b and plain of Lur. Kerki Manger- rab and ■ 40,000 The distribution of this sum of 40,000 tomans varies yearly, and it is impossible therefore to give the details. I ' plain of Beza 288 LUR NUMBEtt OV Families. Rbsidengr. Great Divi- Tribea. Sub-divisions. Assess- ment of Great Remarks. sions. Of each Tribe. Of Grea Division Summer Winter. Divisions. f r Enshkl ... f "I These tribes are Zlwahdar ... Deh NIshins, who The Amalah tribe. Crura i ... cultivate the kha- however, who are off- sets of all the other Mir&khUr ... lisah or crown lands tribes, and were em- Pesh Koh* Amalah - Katirji Gholam ... Molimad ... • 2,000 S- 2,000- at Khoramab&d, Seimarrah, Tehran, and Koh Dasht. They do not migrate at all. }■ 40,000 1 ployed by the former Valis as their imme- diate servants, are very lightly charged, the cultivation of the crown lands beings accounted in lieu of taxation. Rukruk ... l I Zulah Kurd Shaubttn ... J J 1 Yailaks of the range of Kablr BKSfi £. B g The Vali of Pusht- i-Koh has the sole direc- tion of his own reve- nues, and claims to ac- Pusht-i Fatll ... - Mehakl y 12,000 12,000 Kuh, both and plains • 15,000 count personally with the Kirmanshah Go- Koh. on the N.- of Abla- Chahar SitQn l E. and S.- W. faces. dani. vernment for the assess- ment of his district. Dlnariwand... j J Bajilan « Dal wand ... Sagwand ... 900 ■) J- 2,000 1,100) 1 1 r ! Plains of Sus and beyond 1 These tribes are the refugees of the last cen- tury from the vicinity Bairand- r j- 4,500 Huru -j the Ker- khah to [■ 2,000 of Mosul j they are lightly taxed, having wand. C. Aliwand ... 1,500) [2,mo 1 Deh Lu- ran. 1 to furnish a body of 1,200 horse to the crown. "3 S. a ' Dushlwand 1,000) , L J Osman&wand 600 1 & Q Hnllla- nl. ... *j Jalawand ... 600 ( Hills ad- Plain of ) These tribes are now | Dajiwand ... 200 [- 1,500 •j joining ( Hulilan of Huli- lan. Y 3,500 usually included in Kirmanshah ; they far- l Bala wand ... 100 nish 600 infantry. *l Surkhameri 200 ■> Total ... 56,000 58,000 60,500 289 2 N LUR 290 LUR a? a «w ■".§•3 rJ« ICS g O 5 ■3 a •§to TJ a a ^ eq 9 -a s H g, s M 2 on I 1 1 13 A o M ■3 I I ■3 ■g -1 -s •■§ i 9 3 -B 5oHat«KiMKffl« 1 J J I u g g S 3 M R R "3 "S E* 3 "3 W 03 a 291 LUR a a » o a -a St %■& ID < s O o 8 £2 J tQ Jo _ « I™ O go 2 o ■a » §1 o o Mg -Is .s-sa ' sgES o f §* is-o a o g = a • 9 d a -i 1" is s o S 1-1 W M tn to l. for 260Tbs. The silk is comparatively in small quantity, and of inferior quality, to that of Ghilan; it is used in native manufactures, mixed with cotton. Beans wheat, and barley are grown in the mountainous districts, and some flax in 323 MAZ the low lands. During the winter, a great many laborers come from the upper country and are employed here ; their wages at this season is about 6d. a day. " The principal fruits are a great variety of the orange, lemon, and citron species. The Persian names of some of which are as follows : — Tousourk ; Nawrenghee, the mandarin orange; Bawdreng, a very large kind of citron, with a knotty, rough and thick rind ; Minaw, a fruit in shape sometimes like a pear, and of a pleasant acid, the color, both inside and outside, is that of a lemon; Limon, sweet and sour lemons; Nawrinje, a bitter orange like the Seville, and Tonsabz, Bawleng, Tawbesh Ghawbee, Dawrawbee, Toureng, varieties of the above-named fruits ; Sultaun Mur- rekebat, a shaddock, rather a rare fruit, sometimes weighing six or seven pounds. " These are all evergreens, and in winter give a lively and cheerful appear- ance to the gardens, which are filled with them. A great quantity of ab-i-nawrinje, the juice of some of the species expressed and put into bottles, is sent to the interior, and is used in making sherbets. Besides these fruits, there are to be found apples, pomegranates, quinces, pears, peaches, walnuts, grapes, and melons. The vines are seen climbing the trunks of the forest-trees, and their stems are sometimes eight and ten inches in diameter. The appearance of the melons is here the reverse of those of the upper provinces of Persia ; the water-melon of Mazandaran being long and of a greenish yellow, like the ordinary bread-melon ; while the bread-melon is a round, dark, mottled, green fruit, like most water- melons." The principal trade of Mazandaran is maintained by a frequent inter- course with the port of Baku which receives white and colored calicoes, cotton and rice, and returns bar iron of Russia, saffron, flour, and remnants of broadcloth procured from Astrakhan. The commerce of this quarter, which now does not employ more than fonr or five barks, might be largely extended did a greater harmony exist between the Russians and Persians, especially were the manufacture of sugar increased. On the coasts the abundant fisheries of sturgeon, carp, and salmon furnish the chief supply of caviare for the Russian market. Fraser gives the following graphic description of the communications of this province : " Certainly I never saw, nor can I imagine, a stronger or more impracticable country, in a military point of view, than these provinces. Roads — that is, made roads — there are none, except the great causeway, made of old by Shah Abbas, and this has now so nearly disappeared, that it requires a guide to find it; and, even when found, it would be useless for military purposes, from the numerous breaks and gaps in its course, and from the impenetrable jungle which surrounds it on all sides, and affords cover for all sorts of ambuscades and surprises. The surface, where not cultivated, consists of natural or artificial swamps, overgrown with forest trees and thorns, particularly bramble-bushes of incredible luxuriance, and perfectly impervious. Indeed, these brambles are called by the inhabitants -the 'Pehlewanha Mazandaran!/ that is, the heroes or guardians of Mazan- daran, and well do they deserve the appellation. " Above this flat space tower the mountains, assuming the appearance of two ranges, the first of which is clothed with forests as dense as those below, and which throw forward spurs and shoulders that sometimes reach 324 MAZ the coast. Beyond this wooded and buttressed wall, which is traversed in all directions by the most wild and romantic glens, and which forms a sort of velvet lining to the principal range, the peaks and masses of this last are seen rising in naked, rocky grandeur, and snow-spotted even in Septem- ber. It is in ascending these that you meet with the most desperate passes, and amongst their recesses, and even on their summits, as well as on those of the wooded hills below, are found the ' yeilaks/ or summer quarters, to which the inhabitants resort in the heats of that season. The whole of these wooded mountains are pervaded by paths and passes so intricate, that .none but an experienced guide can find his way from one place to another j but the long winding tracks that lead through these skirts and the low plain are equally perplexing and more difficult, following, as they do generally, the windings of streams and rivers that keep to no particular bed, and involving the traveller in swamps, creeks, and quick- sands, against which, as they shift with every flood, no experience can guard. It is these dense jungles and swamps which are the birth-places of all the ill health and disease, the hosts of flies, insects, and reptiles, with all the other abominations that infest Mazandaran. " The beach which bounds this flat is a strip of sand and gravel, thrown up by the wash of the surf, which is driven against the southern shore with great violence by the prevailing wind from the north. In truth, the whole coast is lined by a chain of sand-hills, rising sometimes from twenty-five to thirty feet in height, and 200 yards in breadth, behind which lies a morass of stagnant water from the numerous streams and rivers that, descending from the mountains, are prevented by these sand-hills from finding their way into the sea. Wherever a river does force its way through them, there is a continual battle between it and the surf, which latter throws- up a bar that shuts up the channel entirely, so that its waters will accumu- late and spread behind the sand-hills for miles, sluggish and dead, and only finding their way to the sea by filtration, or very small streams beneath the sand, until a flood enables it to sweep bar and all before it. It is by these stagnated waters, or ' murd-abs'' (dead waters), as the natives- call them, that the lakes and harbours of Salian, Enzell, Langarud, Mashad-i-Sar, Astrabad and others, have been formed. " The banks of these dead, or rather back waters, to speak more properly, are overgrown with alders of enormous size, with plane-trees, elms, ashes> poplars, and other trees, which love a moist soil ; and in the rainy season the country around is all flooded, so as to exhibit the singular spectacle of a boundless forest in a swamp. Yet scattered among these swamps, behind these f murd-abs/ and sometimes between them and the sand-hills, the traveller may find numerous villages and clusters of houses inhabited by the cultivators of the rice-fields around. But a stranger would pass a dozen of these, and never suspect the existence of a. human being, unless he chanced to see the smoke curling upwards from some of their fires, or to hear the bark of one of their dogs ; and yet from each of these muhulehs there are always more than one-pathway, which leads to the sea-beach, for the inhabitants have a considerable traffic, which is carried on by sea ; and at certain seasons the people live on fish, salmon, mullets, and other excellent kinds, which come to the coast, particularly in autumn and winter. But for their paths, who, except themselves, could dis- cover them ? A dense hedge, a perfect wall of bramble, blackthorn, and thick 325 MAZ boxwood cemented with wild vines, and other creeping plants that run up and overtop the trees. It is of great thickness, often approaches within thirty yards of the water's edge, and usually terminates in one of those swamps and jungles I have described. No one in his senses would be mad enough to attempt to penetrate it, but a guide will show you a ' hole in the wall/ a crevice, a thing like a rabbit-run, through which he introduces you to a pathway at first scarcely perceptible, winding like a snake through the bushes, but which increases in size as you get on, not, however, in faci- lity, for it is intersected by at least a dozen of deep natural creeks, through the mire and water of which your horse must flounder ; or he may have the choice of a precarious bridge of boughs ; or, for variety, after a little space, you may have to tread through artificial cuts, made for irrigation no less deep and difficult than the natural creeks, as your poor load-horses soon find out, and which flood the whole vicinity, so that you travel girth deep in the soil ; and thus, if you survive after a circuitous and perilous pilgrimage, you reach the muhuleh or village." Todd also remarks on this difficulty of communication : — " From the above descirption of the two most practicable routes, north and south, through the province of Mazandaran, the natural strength of the country may be estimated. The lofty chain of Elburz is at present an impassable barrier on the south. Roads might, of course, be constructed with enor- mous labor and expense over the passes ; but even the great causeway of Shah Abbas, in its best days, could have been hardly practicable for heavy- wheeled carriages. The climate and soil of the wooded belt of hills which fringes the northern skirt of Elburz render the construction of roads difficult, and their permanence, without constant and expensive repair, almost impossible/'' There are two roads to Tehran from Mazandaran, one by Firoz Koh, which is 45 fursucks (180 miles), and the other by LarijSn, 36 fursueks (144 miles) : both are tolerably good. The roads of the interior are a trifle better than those of Ghilan, but still are bad enough to occasion great fatigue and destruction of the horses. The only tolerable route, and which is always adopted by muleteers when possible, lies along the sands on the sea-shore; but experienced guides are necessary to point out the fords of the numerous rivers, which are full of quicksands; and the fatigue of crossing these streams may be conceived when the number of them between Langarad and the Haraz is 136. The revenue of the province amounts altogether to about 105,000 tomans : of this sum 70,000 are given in " twil" for various officers of the troops and for their salaries ; 7,000 is the salary of the prince and family; 2,000 is the salary of the beglerbeg of Sari; 26,000 is given away in berants and pensions to persons who have no connection with the province — total 105,000. Nothing whatever goes to the general treasury, and it is said that money is paid out of it on account of Mazandaran, though for what and in what manner it is not easy to discover. The administration is entirely in the hands of the prince governor, and all the governors of the different districts are appointed by him, with the exception of the beglerbeg of Sari, and the governors of Tennacorben, Kelauristank and KujfJr. The government appears to be generally liked, and the condition of the peasantry seems to be better than that of 326 MAZ— MEB the Ghllanis ; but of course this varies in different places according to the character and disposition of the sub-governors or land-owners. In respect of freedom from marauders, Mazandaran offers a marked contrast to most other parts of Persia, particularly to Khorasan. The contrast is, in truth, that of a country in profound peace, the inhabitants of which, following their lawful occupations, think not of interfering with each other, opposed to one constantly disturbed by rebellion and disorders. The inhabitants of such a land, seeing little security for their own property, have no respect for that of their neighbours, and endeavour to thrive by the right of the strongest. In other respects the government does not seem better, nor the country under superior regulation. There is no pro- vision, for instance, for the repair of roads ; no penalty for breaking them up to forward private objects. "When any part becomes impassable, an order for repairing it is sent by the governor of the district to the next village, and this is obeyed at all times in the most superficial manner. All other matters of police are on a like loose and inefficient footing. Holmes says of this province: — "Judging from what I have heard or read, the southern shores of the Caspian bear a striking likeness to India in many respects. The climate is similar ; the impenetrable jungle, and many productions — rice, sugar, and cotton — are common to both countries. There are the same wild animals, among which is the royal tiger, and there is a tradition that elephants formerly existed in Mazandaran. The domestic cattle are of the humped species. The general style of building is the same. The natives have the Indian custom of carrying burdens over their shoulders by means of a stick, which I have not seen elsewhere either in Turkey or Persia, and I have no doubt a person who has lived in India would discover many other points of resemblance." (Kinneir — Malcolm — Chardin Fraser — Chesney — MonteitA — Connolly Holmes— Clerk— Todd.) MAZAE— A river of Ghilan, Persia, which rises in the mountains and falls into the Caspian east of Langarud. It is a considerable river in the summer, though in December it does not contain much water. At its mouth are fisheries of sturgeon. (Holmes.) MAZEHBIN1N— The west extremity of the plain of Ram Hormaz in Khuzistan, Persia, is so called. (Layard.) MAZINAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 22 miles from Abbasabad, 102 miles from Shahrud, and 98 miles from Nishapur. It is a small fortified village of 150 houses, and has two seraes. The ruins here are very extensive, and there are whole streets standing without a single inhabitant. The water here is good and plentiful, and there is some cultivation around, and wild game is very abundant. It is one of the nine divisions of Sabzvar. (Connolly — Ferrier — Clerk — Taylor — GvMus — Fastwictc.) MEBtJT— A town in Yezd district of Persia, 33 miles north-west of Yezd. It was formerly a small walled town, but is now only a village containing some 300 or 400 houses and about 40 shops. It has a ruined ditch, four gates, and a small citadel within it. A clay is found here from which a number of porous water-vases are made. The district of Mebut is 327 MEG— MEM dependent on Yezd, and appears to possess 17 villages and eight hamlets, besides the towns of Ardilan and Mebst. The revenues amount to about £3,000. Snow does not remain long on this part of the plain, but in winter a dry cold of considerable intensity is experienced. In so arid a country the heats of summer must be -oppressive. [Abbott — Smith.) MEGASI— Some caves in Khorasan, Persia, half way between Miandara and Chardeh, on the road from Astrabad to Tehran. They are excavated in the side of a clayey hill to the number of 30 or 40. A clear rivulet flows near at hand. (Holmes.) MEHR— A village in Khorasan, Persia, 125 miles east of Shahrud, 77 miles west of NishapQr. The village is about one mile south of the road. It has a serae and some gardens and cultivation. It has 280 houses. Delicious water runs through most of the streets, and they are shaded by plane trees of large size. It is one of the most picturesque villages on the road betweeQ Tehran and Mashad. The serai is a long-cannon spot from the village. (Clerk — Ferrier — Connolly.) MEISHMAT— A tribe of Arabs who inhabit the district of Turshez in Persia. They belong to the tribe of Jumall, but got this name, which signifies " the wanton sheep," from having entered into a war about a sheep. (Malcolm.) MENDIZAN— A celebrated hill fort (Diz) situated on the hill overlooking the plain between Shastar and Dizfal in Khuzistan, Persia. It is a place of some strength against an unscientific enemy, and is the residence of the Mahmud Laleh branch of the Char Lang Bakhtlarl. The proper name is Mlan- dizan. (Layard.) MENGUR— A sub-division of the Balbas Kurds who lead a wandering life, pasturing their flocks in summer upon the Persian frontier along the south skirts of the mountains from Sardasht to Ushnae, and retiring on the approach of winter far within the Turkish line to the warm pastures of Betush and Garmian on the banks of the Lesser Zab. The sub-divisions of this tribe are as follows : — (1) Kadar Weiso, (2) Zaodee, (3) Basgeo, (4) Babresoo, (5) Merne Eena. MENJIL— Lat. Long. Elev. 800 A town in Khemseh district, Irak Ajami, Persia, on the road from Kasvin to Besht in Ghilan, on the right bank of the Kizl Ozan. The town is situated li miles from the bridge over the river, and the approach to it is through an avenue of very large lime trees. It is situated at the west extremity of the Elburz range. Todd says this village is the last village in Ghilan, and on the boundary between it and Irak. (Monteith.) MEM1VAND— A tribe of Char Lang Bakhtlarls of Persia, who, with the Zalaki, number about 7,000 families. They are chiefly engaged in the cultivation of the soil. They do not descend into the Garmsars, except the Isawand, one of their sub-divisions who encamp here during the winter months. The subdivisions of the tribe are Abdalvand, Zarchegani, Zalaki, Biisak, Bosi, Isavand, Bu Ishak, Sharlfvand, Minjavi, Basnai, and Sakl. (Layard) 328 MER— MIA MERAVAND— A village in Irak Ajami, 10 miles from Kashan, on the road to Isfahan, from which it is 90 miles distant. It is situated to the east of the road, and is inhabited by a few families of Iliats. {Clerk.) MERIK— A village in Irak AjamI, Persia, 59 miles from Hamadan, on the road to Tehran, from which it is 128 miles distant. It is a small village built on the site of a ruined town, situate in a dell between lofty hills, with a few trees and scanty cultivation watered by a stream. {Taylor.) MERIVAN— A district of Persian Kurdistan, about 40 miles west of Sena. It is the largest of all the dependencies of Sena. {Rich.) MEYMEN— A district of Pars, Persia, lying north and north-east of Flrozabad beyond « high mountains. {Abbott.) MEYOMID— A village in Khorasan, Persia, 40 miles from Shahrud on the road to Nishapur. It is a considerable village of 300 houses walled round, with a good caravanserai, which stretch along the banks of a brook for 1^ miles and a number of gardens near it. It is situated near the foot of a pointed and precipitous rock. The water is tolerable though slightly brackish, but the water in the reservoir is unfit for anything but washing, and scarcely even for that. There is a good caravanserai shah here, but in summer travellers prefer halting under the trees in the public square. Connolly says the water comes from a " kanat " on the hill, and thus after daily filling two brick reservoirs is turned upon very unpromising look- ing land, but which generally returns wheat and barley enough for the wants of the pilgrims. In times of scarcity supplies are brought from Shahrud. Meyomid is a string of four hamlets beaded along the skirt of a barren, precipitous, isolated mountain. In front the plain slopes away to the north and east, until it reaches the distant Elburz. A few hundred acres of ground in the immediate neighbourhood of the hamlets are under the plough, but these are protected by a series of towers of refuge, built at about 200 yards the one from the other, so that on the common event of a sudden rush of Turkman horse, the peasant may rush to the nearest tower, which he enters at a small aperture., climbs to the top, and gives the alarm by dis- charging his matchlock. Eastwick calls this place Mai-o-mai, which is the correct name. Fraser mentions that the villagers make a cloth of cotton and silk called ' alijah/ and also coarse grey woollen stuffs for winter wear. {Connolly — Ferrier — Gibbons — Clerk — Felly — Eastwick — Fraser.) MIANA— A river of Azarbljan, Persia, which falls into the Kizl Ozan about 2 miles north-east that town. It is formed by the junction of the KarangQ and Eye Dagemish rivers, which unite 2 miles south of the town after drawing from basins which extend towards the west north-west and south-west parts of Azarbljan. {Kinneir.) 329 2 s MIA MlANA — Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Azarbljan, Persia, near the left bank of the Kizl Ozan river, 230 miles from Tehran north-west, and 80 miles from Tabrez south-east. It is described as a dirty place in a low unwholesome situation. Formerly it belonged to the Chief of the Shegagi tribe. This town is noted for a parti- cular kind of bug, the bite of which is exceedingly poisonous, producing severe fever. The native remedies for it are various and ridiculous. {Ouseley — Kinneir — Stuart — Holmes.) MIINDAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, situated in the district of the same name between the rivers Jagatu and Tatau. It is in a state of ruin, is surrounded by a lofty dilapidated wall, and has a miserable bazaar. {Mignon) MIINDAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Azarbljan, Persia, which comprises all the country between the two rivers Jagatu and Tatau, and west as far as lake Urumla. The soil of this district is throughout extremely rich at the upper end of the plain, where many streams descend from the mountains to the north and east, and the higher level of the beds of the two great rivers affords facilities for irrigation. Cultivation is abundant, but as the plain slopes down gradually to the shores of the lake, the Jagatu and Tatau wear themselves into deeper channels, the difficulty of raising the water into artificial ducts is increased, and the greater part of the land is allowed to run waste, serving at best but for the winter pasturage of the flocks belonging to the Mokadam Mikri nomades. {Rawlinson.) MIAN DAKA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Astrabad district, Persia, 16 miles from that city on the road towards Damghan. It contains about 40 houses, and is divided into two parts, one nearer the foot of the hills than the other. A stream runs past it. {Holmes) MIAN-DASHT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, 62 miles east of Shahrud, and 162 miles west of Nlsha- pur. The water here is brackish, and the serai is partially in ruins. Water is got from a reservoir outside the serai. Supplies are very scanty ; close on the left of the serai is a small walled village square with bastions at the angles, containing about 60 houses, 23 of which are newly built and inhabited. It is surrounded by a wall and dry ditch on three sides, the fourth being con- nected with the caravanserai. The water is small in quantity and bad; there is no cultivation ; the two or three gardens which the inhabitants have are at the foot of some mountains two hours distant, where there is a small stream. These gardens are not sufficient to supply the wants of these few families, who purchase their barley and straw elsewhere, and resell them at a large profit. {Clerk.) MlANDEH-RtJD— A river of Persia, which rises in the Elburz range, and flowing north forms the boundary^ between Gh'ilan and Mazandaran, and last falls into the Caspian. This river when full is both deep and rapid. {Holmes) MIAN-I-KALA— A village in Mazandaran, Persia, between Zer-ab and Shergah, on the road to Sari. The road between these places is very bad. {Ouseley) 330 MIA— MIK MIAN-I-KOTAL— Lat. Long. Elev. 5,600. A halting place in Fars, Persia, 49 miles west of Shlraz and 21 miles east of Kazirfln. There is a considerable and excellent spring here, which gushes out in streams several from the face of a precipitous cliff, and flowing across the plains causes, at some 2 or 3 miles distant, a marshy lake. There is a good serai here, recently built and in excellent order, situated in a commanding position on a natural terrace some 200 to 300 yards square. Pelly thinks Mian-i-Kotal is the first point on the road from Bushahr, where the climate can be considered such as would suit the European constitution during the hot season. There is no village near this, nor are any supplies obtainable unless a little straw. (Taylor — St. John — Clerk — Pelly.) MIAN KALAH— A promontory on the coast of Mazandar3n, Persia, which runs out from the main land near Ashraf into the Caspian, curving eventually eastwards some fifteen miles in length and enclosing the harbour af Ashurada. (Eastwick.) MIKB1S— A tribe of Kurds who inhabit the south part of the province of Azarbijan, Persia, extending north-west from the Miandab plain to Kurdistan Proper, and east and west from the valley of the Jagatu to the mountains, a tract measuring 40 miles in length by 50 miles in breadth. This tribe is one of the strongest and most powerful in Persia, numbering above 12,000 families. They are sub-divided into the following sects, and these again have smaller sub-divisions : — Baba Amireh, pronounced Babammiri, Deh Bokri, Kheki, Sherkh Sharifi, Selekei, Hasan Khati, Karish Silki, Sekir, Gflrik, Fekiyesi, Abies, Bank, Sulimani, Beyi, Omarbil, Mezuck, Letan, Mawat, Shiwezae. The Mikris have almost abandoned a nomad life and are settled in villages ; but still on the approach of summer they adhere to their old habit of removing into black tents, which they pitch on the outskirts of the village. They are very lightly taxed by the Persian government, paying nominally but 22,000 and in reality not more than 25,000 tomans a year, which is not above half the sum their assessment should reach according to the general revenue system of the province. They are only directly liable to furnish 200 horses for the service of government ; but in any great national cause, which did not outrage their Suni feelings, they might supply a body of most efficient cavalry, numbering from 4,000 to 5,000 horsemen, and still retain enough hands to gather in their crops and protect their own country from aggression. Bawhnson describes the rapid charge of a Mikri horseman, crouched up in a ball upon the saddle behind his little round shield and with the long spear held well in front, as really superb, and adds : — " The Cossacks had no chance against the Mikri horsemen in the last Kussian war : on one occasion in particular the Mikris chased the whole Russian cavalry from the field." Among the Mikris the condition of the peasantry is far superiorto their state under the direct administration of the government. The Aghas are obliged for their own interests to cherish and protect the peasantry that cultivate their lands, the result being a strong and most pleasing feeling of mutual attachment which makes them cling to each other under all circumstances, and regard each other's welfare as identical. The Mikri chiefs declare they value a family of their own peasantry as 331 MIN equal, to two or even three Turkish families. The Kurd never visits his chief without the offering of a lamb or sheep, and in any exigency when he is suddenly called upon to produce a large sum of money, the chief is sure of being cheerfully assisted by all his peasants to the utmost of their means. Still, however, the Kurds are half savage, and thus the traveller in passing casually through the country, and perceiving their dirty miserable villages, is apt to infer distress and poverty, and to argue inferiority of their general condition to that of the peasantry of other countries. {Rawlinson.) MINAB— A river of Kirman, Persia, which rises in the mountains which divide Kirman from Makran, and flows west to the sea in Lat. 27°7', Long 56°49'. It rises in two branches, one coming from Gulashgird and called Rudbar, the other from the district of Rudbar called Geghem. These join at Gazu, below which only the river is called Minab. At Minab the river is little more than a mountain stream, its width is about 130 yards, and the water is clear and deep. From this to the sea by the windings is a distance of 14 miles, and the river, according to Whitelock, is navigable for vessels of 20 tons, its average width being 100 yards, and its general depth 6 or 7 feet. The tide reaches as far as the town of Minab. The bed of the river at low water is laid almost entirely bare, and it then has the appearance of a foul muddy creek. Though in the dry season this river is very insignificant, when the snow melts on the hills or heavy rain falls it swells into a large and rapid stream. Pelly, however, says that the river on entering the plain of Minab is only 50 or 60 feet wide, and one foot or so deep, and much of its water being immediately withdrawn for cultivation, on winding round the promontory on which the town of Minab is situated, the bed widens to a mile or so in breadth, the water being lost in the sand. It re-appears however some 7 miles or so further down, and reaches the sea near Minab creek some 15 miles from Minab fort. As it is impossible to reconcile two such contrary statements as the above, I have given both. {Whitelock — Pelly.) MINAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Kirman, Persia, situated along the coast east of Bandar Abbas. It is a triangle bounded on the north by the Minab creek, east by the base of Beshangird hills, and west by the sea. _ In the north part, so far south as the Jfl Mahala river, there are succes- sive belts of date groves interspersed with corn-fields and waste patches. And near that river, considerable gardens bearing orange, mango, citron, plantain, and other fruit trees. To the south of this river, the district becomes less cultivated till Kohistak is reached. From Kohistak to Ziarat, the south point of the district, the plain is broken up or changes into sand-hills. The district on the sea-side is intersected by five sea creeks, we., Minab, Khor-i-Borgi, Khor-i-Bhakha, Khor-i-Kurgom and Kohistak. The following is a list of the villages in Minab district :— Gwarband, Dum- shahi, Mirjanshahr, Shahvar, Basreh, Minab fort, Shekhabad, Kala-i- Gat, Ragao, Bahmani, Rovbar, Vanziari, Hakaml, Mashebran, Deh-i-vosta, Mula JonatI, Nasral, Gwarzang, Khausa-ve-botha, Tombak, KerbasI, Kargun, Kohistak, Kardsr, Bilili, Bandezar, Gorazu, Kunar Esmerti, Jfi- Mahala, Kolebi, Kulu, Sarigan, Jovzan, Makhatuni, Tarbarau, Sobetl, Chelow, Hajlabad, Nakhl-Ibrahim, Dehfl. 332 MIN The population of the district, including Karium and Talang, is ahout 10,000 souls, viz., Mlnab fort, 4,000; Karium, 2,000; Talang, .1,000; and 40 villages adjacent to Mlnab at 75 each, 3,000. The revenue of the district is as follows : — Taxes derived from date trees 94,000 in number at 1J kran each ... ... ... ... 1,41,000 krans. Customs duty on goods ... ... ... 12,000 Market taxes ... ... ... ... 4,000 Land taxes Taxes on animals Income of Karium Ditto of Talang Total 6,000 1,400 2,600 1,000 1,68,000 „ {Felly) MINAB— Lat. Long. A town on the coast of KirmSn, Persia, < and under the rule of the Imam of Maskat. Elev. miles east of Bandar Abbas The fort of Mlnab is distant about one mile from the town, and is situated on elevated ground on the south bank of the river which winds round its base. It is of quadrangular form, flanked by round towers at the corners in which there are a few old guns bearing inscriptions in Portuguese and Dutch. A drawbridge thrown across a moat, leads to a gate thickly studded with iron knobs and spikes on the south-west side. The walls are strong and the fort is generally in good condition. The garrison consists of about 100 men well appointed, who are obliged to be constantly on the alert in consequence of the numerous marauding bands who rob and plunder the country. The fort, however, is commanded by a hill on the north-east side, but in a country where the use of artillery is nearly un- known this does not so much matter. The soil round Mlnab is of a rich alluvial nature, and yields with little labor to the husbandman a plentiful crop. Prom its loose nature it re- quires little ploughing, and the instrument used is rude and simple. From Shah Bandar to Hajiabad the whole country is cultivated, yielding large crops of wheat, fruit, and vegetable. Melons are common, and onions are raised in large quantities ; plums, cherries, frequently pineapples and dried fruits, are brought from the interior. The indigo plant is also cultivated here to a considerable extent. Although the site of the town is badly chosen and low, yet it does not, except at the close of the date season, appear to be considered unhealthy, and near the fort the air is very salubrious. During the hot months many of the better classes from Bandar Abbas and Kishm resort hither, when in addition to its superior climate they enjoy the luxury which its light and pure water affords. In the better parts of the town of Mlnab the houses are constructed of rough stones cemented together with mud. In the windows talc is substituted for glass. A small open space serving for their cattle and various domestic purposes is sometimes enclosed by a wall, but more generally a fence constructed with the branches of the palm tree. With the same material the lower classes construct their huts, which are afterwards covered over with a layer of mud. 333 MIN— MOB The Mlnabls all call themselves by this name, though they are of mixed races. They are industrious and peaceful. The population is estimated by Pelly at 4,000 souls. [Whitelock—Pelly.) MINAM— Lat. • Long. Elev. A town in Kirman, Persia, 141 miles west of Kirman on the road to Shiraz, 26 miles east of Shahr-i-Babak. It consists of 300 or 400 caverns excavated out of the face of the mountain, along which they extend for quarter of a mile. Some of these subterraneous buildings are dug one above an- other, with a shelving path or steps to ascend to the upper ones, but in general they are all on one floor with a large apartment in the centre and recesses on each side. The inhabitants are not orthodox Mussulmen, but of the sect of All Ilahis. They are frightfully dirty, their habits are pastoral, and they keep vast flocks of goats and sheep. [Pottinger.) MIRABI— Lat. Long. Elev. A range of hills in Khorasan, Persia, which bound the plain of Nishapur on the east and lie between Mashad and Nishapur, being crossed by the Dehrud pass. They are described as high, bare, and stony, and are called further north the Khaul Range. They are a spur from the Kurd hills. [Clerk.) MIRIK— A river of Kirmanshah, Persia, whieh rises in the plain 16 miles due south of Mahidasht, and passing that village flows on a north direction till it joins the Kara Su in the plain of Kirmanshah. This river in dry weather is very insignificant, but in the winter it becomes very impetuous, deep, and rapid. [Jones.) MIR KHASAR— Lat. _ Long. Elev. 7,000 feet. A small plain in Kirmanshah, Persia, about 12 miles east south-east of Zohab, situated under the west brow of Mount Dalahu. It is delicious and cool here, and the plain is well watered. [Jones.) MISHKAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 60 miles north-west of Nishapur. It is described as a considerable village. [Gibbons.) MISHKCR— Lat. Long. Elev. A district in Kirman, Persia, in the division of Jamal Barez. [Abbott.) MISHKIN— A district of Azarbijan, Persia, on the north slopes of the Savalan Dagh between Ahar and Ardebll. It is one of the most populous in Persia, and is famous for the excellent rice it produces. It extends along the south and east bank of the Ahar Chai from opposite Ahar to Bijah, and comprises the valley of the Mishkinchai, a small river whose source is in the Samamlu Koh about 21 miles south. [Holmes.) MITANLIS— A sect of freethinkers in Persia, who deny everything which they cannot prove by natural reason. [Chesney.) MOBARAKEH— A village in district of Yezd, Persia, 9 miles from Yezd, on the road to Kirman. It is inhabited by Guebres. [K. Abbott.) MOBARAKEN— A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, on the road from Tehran to Hamadan. It is situated in a well peopled and well cultivated district. (Morier.) 334 MOB— MOG MOBARAK-KOH— An insulated mountain at cape Mobarak, west of cape Jask on the Kirman coast of the Persian Gulf. (Fraser.) MOGAM— A celebrated plain of Azarbijan, Persia, which extends from the neighbour- hood of Ardebil to the mouths of the river Kar. It is reported to be 210 miles in length and 70 in breadth, and its rich soil and luxuriant pastures, the grass of which are said to be sufficiently high to cover a man on horseback, seem to have rendered it the favourite encamping ground of most eastern conquerors. The plain is said to be infested with snakes in summer. Timur Lang, when encamped in this plain, constructed a canal from the Kara Sa river, through the whole of Mogam to the Kur; this was 10 feet deep, 240 feet broad, but is now dry. It could easily be opened again at a very slight expense, and this now desert plain converted into one of the most fertile districts of Persia. The army of the Russian General Zuboff passed the winter of 1796 on this plain. During the Russo-Turkish war of 1828-29, General Kutle- rousky, attempting to proceed to Lankaran in Talish, was met on this plain by a fine body of Kurdish cavalry. The Russians formed into an echelon of squares flanking each other, and the Kurds actually charged through the intervals and made a desperate attack on the infantry. The Kurds met with great loss, and were unable to prevent the Russians from continuing their march. {Monteith — Kinneir — Mignon — Chesney.) MOGHOSTAN— A district of Kirman, Persia, which extends along the coast south of the river Minab. It is a beautiful fertile plain covered with orange groves, orchards, and vineyards. Minab is its chief town. MOGU— A small fishing village situated on a bay of the same name on the coast of Laristan. The country around is perfectly destitute of vegetation, the natives living entirely on fish and dates. (Remptkome.) MOGU— A bay on the coast of Laristan, Persia, due north of the island of Polior. It is a noble bay, secure against the prevailing winds in the Gulf. It is formed by cape Bostana to the eastward, and cape Certes, which in Heather's chart is improperly called Bestian, to the westward ; the extremes, which lie north-west by west and south-east by east of each other, are about ten miles asunder. The bay is of a good depth, and is capable of holding the largest fleets ; the ground is tough clay, from which you with difficulty heave up the anchors : the soundings without the bay are irregular ; and between Mogu and Polior is a rocky shoal, on which is less than three fathoms. This shoal lies nearer to the main than to Polior, and is an objection against running from the bay in the night, but in the day-time the marks are so good that you may easily avoid it. By keeping a remarkable round and lofty hill, named Charak hill, north- west, a ship will be led into Mogu bay. The Chiffonne's marks for anchorage in MogiS Bay are as follows : — Against a north-west wind. Extremes of the land west by north to south-east; the town of Mogu north by east, off shore two miles, in five 335 MOG— MON and a half fathoms, tough clay ; the points which form the bay south-east by east i east to west by north. Against a south-east wind. Polior south J west to south by west, \ west, off shore three quarters of a mile, in six and a quarter fathoms, tough clay. The shoal between Polior island and Mogu bay. The marks of this shoal, as taken by Mr. Smart, Master of His Majesty's Ship Caroline, in January 1810, are by compass; the island of Polior south \ west, to south by west J west ; extremes of the Persian land north-west, by west to east north-east ; the eastern fall of Charak hill, in one with the two points of the eastern boundary of Mogtl bay, which in the charts is improperly ^ called cape Bestian, north north-west, and north-west by north. These bearings were taken from a boat. The shoal is composed of coarse sand and shells. (Bracks.) MOGUWI— Lat. Long. Elev. A division of the Char Lang Bakhtiarls. They number 1,000 families, but were formerly a very large section and one of the original tribes of the Char Lang. For their divisions, &c. See BaMtmns. (Bayard.) MOHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the province of Kirman, Persia, 24 miles south of Kirman. It is situated in a large plain. There is a fine Imamzada close to it. {Gibbons.) MOHREZI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bushahr district of Pars, Persia. It contains 2,750 houses inhabited by Arabs, and pays 250 tomams revenue. (Petty.) MOHUR— Lat. Long. Elev. A desert in Pars, Persia, which extends south-west from Fahlian, between the Ab-i-Shor and the Shems-i-Arab rivers to the sea between,Bandar Dilam and Bandar Beg. It is uninhabited, but lions, wild boars, and antelopes abound. (Be Bode) MOLAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, 20 miles south of the bridge of Khuda Afarld over the Aras and on the road to Ahar. The north approach to this village is both difficult and dangerous. A stream of water runs through it. (Mignon.) MOMBENI— A division of the Janeki Garmsar tribe of Lurs, who occupy the valley of Mae Datld in Khuzistan, Persia. They can raise 800 or 900 excellent match- lockmen. (Bayard. ) MONAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A valley in the Kurdish of Khorasan, Persia, at the head of the Atrak river. It is described as a very fine valley. It was once populous, but was devastated by Turkmans, and is now occupied by some Goklan Turkmans, who have been driven from their own country. (Fraser.) MONAKILA— Lat. 27° 48' 15"; Long. 51° 33' 10"; Elev. A low sandy island off the coast of Fars, Persia, in the Persian Gulf, which is joined on to Jazlrat Malgasab by a reef nearly dry at low water. (Brucks) MONGENH— Lat. Long. Elev. A small but fertile plain of Khuzistan, Persia, west of Mae David and immediately at the foot of the mountains of Mangasht. (Layard.) 336 MON— MUR MONGODEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A small river of Ghllan, Persia, which falls into the Enzell lake, a little east of the Plrl Bazar stream. It is about 8 yards wide, and flows between deep sandy banks, and is crossed on the road from Enzell to Resht by a narrow bridge constructed of three trunks of trees with cross planks. On the occasion of the Russian attempt to advance on Resht, they got only as far as this. {Holmes) MOSALA— Lat. Long. Elev. 3,500. A town in Ghilan, Persia, containing 2,000 inhabitants and 500 houses built on the steep sides of the mountains, down which stones occasionally fall, sweeping away all the buildings in their course. Eraser describes it as one of the most romantically situated and curious places he had ever seen. It is built on terraces rising on the almost perpen- dicular slope of the western mountain, with a tremendous wooded peak towering over it, and a fine lofty ridge varied with wood and rock and pasture opposite, while a dozen of little streams " descend from their hills" in lines of foam to form the small river beneath the village, which goes roaring away towards the low country. The houses of this village differed entirely, both in internal and external appearance, from those of the neighbour- ing villages. They were, many of them, three stories high, the two upper ones having each two tiers of windows, — the one tall, the other low, — over each other, which produces rather a lively appearance resembling European buildings. They are built on the Lesghi model. The people of Mossala are all muleteers or petty merchants, who trade with the neighbouring districts, and between the low and high country ; and we had abundant proof of the attention they pay to the main chance. They cultivate no grain, nor indeed anything else, except a few vegetables ; but they are rich in flocks and herds. [Monteith.) MOSHA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the coast of Laristan, Persia, opposite Basadoh. It has but few inhabitants, and these mostly fishermen and wood-cutters. (Brucfo.) MUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 130 miles on the direct road from Farah to Nishapur. It is open and contains 400 houses inhabited by Persians. (Ferrier.) MfrRCHEKHOR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 30 miles from Ispahan, on the road to Tehran. It is situated on a plain, surrounded with cultivation, and bounded to the south by high mountains running east and west. There is a water- course (kanat) here, and a good caravanserai adjoining. It also has a mud- built fort, and contains some 200 houses. To these belong some gardens, which produce fruits of various kinds, and some fields where cotton and castor, wheat and barley, are cultivated. Here, on the 13th November ] 729, was fought a decisive battle between the Afghans under Ashraf and the Persians under Nadar Shah; the former were totally defeated, losing 4,000 of their best men, while the loss of the latter was but slight. (Clerk.) MTJRDI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 8 miles from Maragha, on a river called the Murdlchai, which falls into the lake of Urumia. (Morier.) MURDEFIL— Lat. Long. Elev. See Ab-I-Shor. 337 2 T MUR— NAD MtfRGHAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 83 miles on the road from Shiraz to Isfahan from which it is 203 miles. It contains 80 houses ; provisions are scarce, but there is abundance of water. The hills around it are covered with vines. The district of Murghab has been for over 700 years in the hands of a family of Arabian origin. (Morier — Clerk.) MUSHKEIT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Dizful district of Khuzistan, Persia, inhabited by Ali- Kethir Arabs. (Layard.) MtJSH KYNAN— Lot. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 42 miles east of Ispahan, on the road to Yezd, from which it is 102 miles west north-west. It is described as a large but ruinous-looking village. (K. Abbott.) MCT— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Khorasan, Persia, 15 miles from Birjan, on the road to Farah. It is raised on a mound, and is surrounded by a village. Water from wells. (Lumsden.) MCZDEKAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Irak AjamI, Persia, passed on the road between Sultania and Hamadan. MUZDERAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Khorasan, Persia, 55 miles from Mashad, on the road to Sharakhs, from which it is 50 miles distant. It stands on an isolated spur of table-land on the descent from the Darband pass. The place was once peopled, but the Khan of Khiva, some years since, seized its inhabitants en masse and razed their defences. If it was in repairs it might protect the road into Persia. There is a beautiful fountain of tepid water which springs up under Muzderan, and makes for itself and some kindred streams a channel down the valley, where the fruit trees and gardens of the exiled inhabitants may still be seen. It is the frontier station of Persia, towards the Turkmans, and is occupied by a small military guard. {Thomson — Bumes) NABAND— Lat. 27° 23' 27"; Long. 52° 42' 59"; Elev. A town on the south side of the Naband or Asilu Bay, on the coast of Lari- stan, Persia. It is a small town dependent on Asilu, and contains about 240 men of the Al-Aram and Al-Bakalif tribes. It has a few small trading boats; cattle, poultry, and good water are procurable. For a description of the bay, See Asilu. {Bruclcs.) N. NABAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Fars, Persia, which rises south of Firozabad and flows south to the Persian Gulf to the Asllfl bay. (Chesney.) NADAV AND— " A division of the Lak tribe, which see. 338 NAH— NAI NAHAVAND— Lat. Long. Elov. A town in Kirmanshah, Persia, 85 miles from Bfirujard, on the road to Kirmanshah. It is built just at the foot of the north-east range of hills upon some craggy points. In the centre of the town rises the citadel, a most imposing looking structure and really of some strength. It crowns the top of the highest of the craggy point on which the place is built, and is supported by an immensely solid mud wall from without, rising at least 100 feet high. Nahavand is celebrated as the site of the great battle in 641, which gave the Persian empire to the Arabs. Since Shah Abbas retook this place from the Turks in 1602, it has been gradually falling into decay, and has now only 1,000 houses. {Ferrier.) NAHGUMBIZAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting place in the Yezd district, Persia, 93 miles from Yezd, on the road to Isfahan, from which it is 108 miles distant. There is a good caravanserai of Shah Abbas, a post-house and a walled enclosure here, but no village. The water is saltish, and there is almost no cultivation ; only a few peasants living in the enclosure. {Smith.) NAHlMABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Kirman, Persia, 36 miles south-east of Bam. It is very populous and flourishing. Pottinger was not admitted to the inside of the fort, but the outworks were kept in the nicest order, and looked from their neatness and smoothness more like the walls of a house than a large fortification. The fort is an oblong with high walls and bastions at the corners, and two on each of the longer sides. Much henna is grown here for export; its small green leaf, pounded into a pale green powder, constitutes the well-known red dye used for staining fingers and nails. The berry is rubbed when dry on the palm of the hand, and produces a fine seed which is profusely scattered to produce crops. {Pottinger — Goldsmid.) NAHR BtfSI— Lat. Long. Elev. The river Jarahi in Khuzistan, Persia, divides at about 7 miles above Fellahia into two branches, one of which, generally termed the Nahr Busi, runs into the Persian Gulf at Khor Mtisa near Bandar Mashur. {Layard.) NAHR-EL FELAHIA— Lat. Long. Elev. A canal in Khuzistan, Persia, which connects the Karun with the Jarahi river. It is generally about 16 feet wide, and is navigable for boats. {Felly) NAHR-I-MASRtJKAN— Lat. Long. Elev. The ancient name of the .nb-i-Gargar canal in Khuzistan, Persia. {Layard) NAIBAND— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Persia, 130 miles on the road from Birjan to Kirman, from which it is 205 miles distant. It is a walled town with a good deal of cultivation about it. The population is mixed, consisting of Persians and Bilochls. The surrounding country is hilly. Water is plentiful from springs at the base of the hills. {Lumsden.) NUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in the district of Yezd, Persia, 268 miles from Tehran, on the road to Yezd, from which it is 80 miles distant. It is 93 miles east of Ispahan. Nain is a small town rather less than a mile in circumference, enclosed by a dilapidated wall and ruinous ditch and entered by five gateways. It is situated on an uneven part of a great plain, a short distance south of some mountains which intersect the flat country at this part. With the exception 339 NAI— NAK of some trifling paiches of cultivation and a few gardens of fruit trees, the environs appear perfectly sterile, and the aspect of the place is rendered still more wretched by the ruins of mud walls which surround it. It possesses a small bazaar of some 70 or 80 miserable shops, in which petty trades are car- ried on, such as smiths, dyers, makers of felt, cotton-beaters, &c., and one shop in which Manchester goods are sold. The place contains nothing else worth remarking, unless it be the principal mosque which is built on an unusual plan, and contain an ancient pulpit bearing the date 721 A. H. A ruined mud fort stands within the town, which latter possesses some 400 or 500 houses. Its inhabitants speak a dialect of their own, wbich is said to be the ancient language of the Guebres, who occupied this place at one time. Nam is the principal place in a district extending from south-east to north-west about 54 miles, and from north-east to south-west about 77 miles, in which space there appear to be 8 villages and some 300 hamlets. Many of the latter are tenanted each by a very few families. The productions of the district consist of barley, wheat, cotton, all in trifling quantities, and fruits, such as melons, grapes, and pomegranates. The revenue of this part of the country is taken according to an estimate of the value of the water in the villages or lands. This revenue is called ' bunicheh/ and is of ancient custom, and amounts to only 1,605 tomans — a miserable sum to be derived from so large a tract of country ; but the district, owing to the scarcity of water, is not a fertile one, and it is much exposed to the forages of Bakhtlaris. [K. Abbott.) NAKHILO— Lat. 26°52'13"; Long. 53°22'32"; Elev. A town on the Laristan coast of the Persian Gulf, situated opposite the island of Shitwar. It is defended by a square fort, flanked by four towerst and although a frigate might lie within gunshot of the walls of the town, the anchorage is wholly exposed to the north-west winds. It has abou. 800 inhabitants of the Atrosemate tribe, and several trading boats belong to it. The Shekh is independent, except of the Persian government (Taylor — Kinneir — Brucks.) NAKHODEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Soldtiz district of Azarbijan, Persia, situated at the foot of an immense artificial mound, upon which is a quadrangular fort with eight bastions, the strong place of the district and the residence of the Chief of the Kara-papa tribe, in whose hands the district of Solduz is. (Rawlinson.) NAKHSH-I-RfrSTAM— Lat. Long. Elev. Some sculptures in Fars, Persia, near Persepolis. A full account of them will be found in Morier's journey through Persia, pp. 125 to 129. NAKL-I-HAGHEL— Lat. 27°23'18"; Long. 52°43'15"; Elev. A village in the Bay of AsilQ, coast of Laristan, Persia, between Asllu and Naband. It is a small village with a tower, and is subject to the Shekh of Kongun, and contains 1 50 of the Ben-i-Malak tribe. Several small villages are near it, and a short distance from the shores of the bay is subject to Kongun, and contains altogether about 900 or 1,000 men of the Ben-i- Malak and Ben-i-Tamen tribes. {Brucks.) NAKL-I-TAKI— Lat. 27°29'48"; Long. 53°32'21"; Elev. A village on the coast of Laristan, Persia, near Asllu. It is small and dependent on Asllu. It has a small fortalice, and contains about 70 people of the Nasur tribe. {Brucks) 340 NAM— NAR NAMAKAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Mazandaran, Persia, which falls into the Caspian between Abbasabsd and Kerpam. {Holmes.) NAMIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 15 miles north-east of Ardebll. It is situated in a ravine descending form Mount Shindan to the north-east, and is the residence of the Chief of Velkhi, Astara, and Ujartid. There is abundance of water here. It is a very pretty village situated iu a small valley at the foot of the mountains which divide the upper country from the low lands of Talish. The houses are in good repair and neatly built, and a clear stream (the banks of which are planted with willows, poplars and some fruit trees) flows past the east side. This village contains about 200 houses, and yields 150 tomans revenue. {Todd — Holmes.) NAODEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 10 miles north-east of Ardebll. It is a large village on the right bank of the Kara Su. {Todd.) NAODEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, close to Karatapeh, and containing about 30 families of Afghans. {Holmes.) NAORtTD— A river of Mazandaran, Persia, which joins the Caspian at R.ud-i-Sar. ( Fraser.) NABANJ KALA— Lat. Long. Elev. A ruined fort in Khorasan, Persia, near Meyomid. Eraser who visited this place gives the following account of it: — "After a sufficient rest, I turned my attention to the very singular place we had reached. The top of the mountain consisted of a narrow ridge, with three principal risings of greater breadth; two of these, the eastern- most, had been crowned by forts, the stone walls of which were not only visible, but in some places remained still ten feet high. Of these the western-most embraced an area of 50 to 60 yards square, the interior of which had been occupied by a number of small houses or chambers, now all in total ruin. A round water tank, built of stone and plastered inside, about 10 feet in diameter, and half filled with rubbish, had at one time no doubt afforded water to the inhabitants. The eastern-most and principal fort was about 70 yards by 60 in area. I speak roughly, for the ground was too uneven to be paced. Its walls were about 5 feet thick, and the interior appeared to have been principally occupied by a building or series of buildings, consisting of seven chambers 40 feet long by about 14 broad: around these, between them and the walls, there was a space of some 50 feet, which, on the south-east, appears to have been vacant, but on the north-west was filled with smaller apartments of 20 feet by 8 or 10, all now quite ruinous. Here, too, was the principal tank constructed of stone and cement, and arched with burnt bricks, about 20 feet long by 10 broad, and having still a depth of 12 feet, clear of rubbish. " The entrance to this fort was by a gate in the stone wall, arched with burnt bricks, and about 8 feet high under the centre of the arch. The bricks are formed of the scanty soil of the hill, which is partly cal- careous and partly argillaceous, and were burned no doubt with the weeds and furze which it produces. They are quite square, and one and a 341 NAR— NAT' half inch thick, and the kiln in which they were burned is still visible, though I did not go to look at it. These two forts, which may be from 5 to 600 yards asunder, have been joined by two walls embracing the neck or bridge of the hill, enclosing a space which in some places is not above £0 yards broad, and in no part about 60, but which appears to have been studded thickly with buildings, all small, like those in the western fort. The walls in some places are not more than 2| to 3 feet in thickness, others have been founded upon the huge rocks of the mountain itself, and these have been of greater size ; the mason work is far from good, and the cement throughout of clay. No dressed stone is to be seen. I cannot find that either money or antiques have been found here, but there is plenty of broken pottery strewed about, and narrow heads of large size, both of iron and brass, have been picked up, much like those now in use among the Turkmans. Outside of the walls may be seen the vestiges of what seem to have been graves, formed much in the present Mahamadan fashion with head-stones, but very rude. I think this is all that can be said about this place, which is chiefly curious from its situa- tion. That the ruins are of ancient date is not to be doubted; but to determine to what period its origin or existence should be assigned is pro- bably impossible. In this dry climate stones remain for centuries unchanged in external appearance, yet the 6tones of these buildings that have fallen are covered with yellow and grey lichens." {Fraser.) NASIRIBAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 23 miles from Khaff, on the road to Turshez. It is a strongly fortified little place, with wall, double ditch, and citadel, containing 300 houses. {Clerk — Taylor.) NASRABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 50 miles from Tehran, on the road to Kasvin. (Ouseley.) NASRABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 11 miles from Kashan, on the Tehran road. It is surrounded with a mud wall, and contains 300 houses, with a caravan- serai, some cornfields and cotton plantations ; and is celebrated for its melon beds. The inhabitants are noted for their idleness and propensity to volup- tuousness, so that one who comes the fine gentleman is called a Mirza of Nasrabad. (Morier — Ouseley.) NASRABID— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 36 miles on the road from Ahar to Ardebil, from which last it is 35 miles distant. It is described as a large village with abundance of water. {Todd.) NAStJREH— Lat, Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 90 miles on the road from Khaff to Yezd. It is situated on a plain, and is a large village. The water is hrackish. {Christie.) NATANZ— A town of Irak Ajami, Persia, 63 miles from Ispahan, 43 miles from Kashan. It is one of the most delightful spots that can be imagined. It is situated in a valley surrounded by high and rugged mountains, from which flow innumerable rivulets of water. The whole of this valley, about 8 miles in length, is a continued garden of fruit trees, in which the houses of the inhabitants are interspersed and hid from view. Natanz is famed for the 842 NAZ— NES salubrity of its climate, and its pears, peaches, and pretty girls. Its walnut trees grow to a great size and luxuriance, and extensive groves of white and red mulberries are cultivated for the sake of a worm which produces a silk not inferior to that of Ghilan. It is the chief town of four petty sub-divisious of the province. It has a fort in the centre of the valley, an excellent warm bath, and an old mosque, with a very handsome minaret said to have been built 800 years ago. (Kinneir.) NAZOXABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 8 miles from Sabzvar. (Clerk.) NEKPAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khemseh district, Persia, 22 miles from Zanjan to the west. It is a moderate sized village with a large ill-kept post-house. The poisonous bug is found here. (Eastwick.) NESTORIANS— A tribe of Christians who inhabit the district of Urumla in Azarbijan, Persia, and the mountains to the south of it. The following particulars regarding this interesting people are gleaned from Colonel ShieFs notes and Herr Wagner's book : — " The origin of the name Nestonans is not very clear. Though acquainted with the word Nestooree, it is rejected by this people, who disavow Nestorius ; and it is said that the word intended to be used is Nesseranl, a common expression over the east for Christians, and derived from Nazareth. Kaldani is the name, he said, cf this nation and language, the latter bearing a strong resemblance to Syriac and much affinity with Arabic. Mar Shimoon (Great Simon) is the name of the chief or patriarch, who lives at Kojamis, near Joolamerk, in the heart of the mountains. Great Simon must be a very great man, all Christians, who belong chiefly to the mountain dis- tricts of Toqoobee and Teearee, paying respect to him. "There are conflicting opinions respecting the character of these Nesto- rians. In the highlands of Kurdistan they are wild, brave, and grasping; in fact, they resemble the Kurds, amongst whom, in many places, they live intermingled. The breeding of cattle is their principal occupation. In the plain of Urumla, on the other hand, they are farmers, and have adopted, under Persian sway, both the cowardly, servile, lying and deceptive character, together with the polished and, insinuating manners of the Persians." Shiel, who was on one occasion presented during the religious service of this people, thus describes it : — " We then proceeded to the church, and by a door three feet in height (these small dimensions being no doubt intended for security,) we entered a dark room 20 feet square, the floor of which was covered with a few pieces of matting. There were three brick structures, which seemed to be altars, for on them books were placed, and in one corner lay a large bundle of firewood." " The service was simple enough. The bishop had a single attendant, who, I suppose, was a priest, and not at all a reputable-looking son of the church. The bishop was not decked in vestments or clerical garments of any kind ; and the priest put on only a white band round his neck, with another round his waist ornamented with a cross. On the middle altar there was a lamp burning -'and during prayers a vessel containing very strong incense was 343 NES occasionally swung. They applied it to the books on the altar (the Scrip- tures no doubt), to a figure of the cross, the bishop's beard, the priest's face, then to mine, to the great discomfiture of my nose and eyes, and then a small dose was administered to the rest .of the congregation when it arrived. The bishop and priest sang and chanted alternately. They remained in a standing position, excepting when they read the Bible, when they sat. Their mode of reading the Scripture resembled the monotonous, though far from unpleasing, recitative intonation used in reading the Koran. From the near connexion of Arabic and Kaldani, and from the apparent metrical division of the verses, it also bore a strong similarity to the Koran. For a long time I and my two Mussulman servants formed the entire con- gregation. The priest appeared to get ashamed of so scanty an attendance, for a boy, peeping in at the door, was apparently sent to collect an audience, which soon after appeared, represented by half a dozen of men and a few women. The men kissed the bishop's hand, mine, and that of the priest more than once. The behaviour of the khaleefa was tolerably respectful. The priest, who was constantly yawning, seemed heartily tired of his occupation, and was continually talking in a most irreverent manner to the congregation, who imitated his example. In the church there was not a single picture or image, and in answer to my inquiry, they said such things were never permitted by their religion." The following account of the religious condition of these people is given by the Revd. Mr. D wight and the Revd. Mr. Smith, two American Mission- aries who preceded Dr. Grant and the Revd. Mr. Perkins in their researches at Urtimla, and who complained of the difficulty they experienced in arriving at a conclusive opinion on this subject ; " The Nestorians positively recognize the divinity and humanity of Christ in one person, but the Spirit proceeds from the Father alone. There are seven sacraments, — baptism, eucharist, ordination, marriage, burial, confirmation, confession; but not auricular confession, which some of them say is found in their ancient books, but is not now practised. The laity take the bread and the wine at commu- nion ; the elements cease to be bread and wine after consecration ; transub- stantiation takes place, and a sacrifice is offered up in the mass. They fast abundantly, and eat no animal food at such periods. They abstain from labour on festivals, and celebrate the feast of the assumption ; but they hesitate to recognize the fact. They read the Scripture a good deal : the canonical books are the same as in the Catholic Church. The church service is not understood by the people at large, being in Estrangelo or old Syriae ; but there are translations for their use. They pray to the saints, and regard them as mediators. Hell is eternal. Masses and prayers are said for the dead ; but purgatory is denied. Bishops cannot marry or eat meat: the clergy may marry, but those who do so are not eligible as bishops. There are- monasteries for monks, and convents for nuns, who take vows of celibacy, seclusion, &c. They offer sacrifice of animals to remove sickness. " When a man intends to have a son a khaleefa, for three years before the birth of the prospective bishop, his mother must abstain from flesh of every description. If, instead of a son, a daughter is born, the latter neither eats meat nor marries during her life. The khaleefaship seems to be confined to families. A khaleefa, for instance, dies; his brother or sister sets about producing another, should the defunct bishop have no nephews." 344 NES ff In 1818," says Wagner, " an American Mission was established under Dr. Grant of the New England Independent Church. The American Missionaries received immediately a hearty welcome from the Nestorians, because they saw that these foreigners would be a useful bulwork against the tyranny of the Persian grandees, that their reports forwarded to Tabrez and Tehran would have weight, and that they would benefit them as protectors or, at all events, mediators in cases of extortion. Meanwhile the missionaries showered their gold with a liberal hand, and not only taught the youth gratis, but gave them a weekly gratuity. They did not interfere with the liturgy in external devotions of the Nestorians, nor sought to effect any change in their religious ceremonies; they testified their respect for the historical character of Nestorians, of whom the clergy knew little and the people nothing, and they made friends of the high and low clergy by liberal donations. " The American Mission cannot boast of splendid results in relation to the improvement of morality, stimulus by virtuous examples, or the advance- ment of culture. Of all the exertions of the missionaries, their gratuitous instruction of the young is least appreciated. Each bishop receives from the Americans a monthly allowance of 300 Turkish piastres, and ordinary ecclesiastics from a 150 to 200 piastres. On the condition of this allow- ance being continued, the Nestorian clergy permit the missionaries to preach in their villages, to keep schools, and to interpret to the youth the principles of Christian morality, which are neither taught nor practised by the native clergy. Without this payment or bribery of the priests for a good end, the missionaries could not maintain their footing in this country. Even the peasant is only carrying on a pecuniary speculation in sending his child to school. Each scholar receives weekly a sahebgeran, and though this gift is small, the schools would become directly empty, if it were to cease. The institution at Urumla costs the North American Missionary Societies above fifty thousand dollars annually, and the maintenance of the other missions in Turkey three times that amount. Yet, if we except a few Jews won over from motives of gain, these expensive establish- ments have made no converts. " Dr. Grant's efforts roused those of the Church of Rome. The Kaldanis or Chaldaeans are divided into two religions — the one of the Nestorian faith, the other of the Church of Rome. The former are numerous in the valley of {Jrumia, amounting to perhaps 400 families; while the Catholics are few. But in the adjoining district of Salmas, between Urumla and KhoT, the Catholic Kaldanis are a considerable body. When the American establishment in tJrflmia became known, the Propaganda at Rome felt alarm at the danger to which its flock was ex- posed; and though some of the priests at Salmas had been educated at Rome, it was considered that European energy only could stem the torrent from the Western Hemisphere. Some French Lazarist Missionaries were despatched to the rescue in the persons of Pere Ouzel, Pere Darnis, and one or two others. These gentlemen abounded in zeal and activity, but they were poor, and wholly unable to contend against the treasures of Boston and the paraphernalia which gave so much brilliancy to the oper- ations emanating from tJrumia. It was as much as they could do to hold their own ground, and preserve their flock from the invaders. As might be surmised dissensions followed. There were accusations and recriminations. 345 2u NES "The French Missionaries had, in fact, a narrow escape of expulsion through the hostility of the Russian Government, which even proceeded to the length of extorting a firman from the late Shah, prohibiting Chris- tians from changing their religion. The intention was to prevent con- version among the Armenians to other creeds — Catholic, Protestant, or Nestor ian. The Patriarch of the Armenians of that part of the world being a resident in Russia, the emperor perhaps considered himself in a measure the head of that church. When Mahamad Shah died, the Persian Government was persuaded to revoke that obnoxious edict, and Christians were again free to choose their own faith." Most authorities appear to have been unanimous in regarding the country of the Chaldseans as quite unassailable, but their opinions would seem to have been founded on the stories of the people themselves who were fond of boasting that no enemy had dared to invade their mountains. Unfortu- nately recent events have not confirmed these anticipations. The chieftain of a Kurdish tribe has effected what Mahamad and Omar never accom- plished, perhaps because they did not think it worth the trouble. Nurula Bey, chief of the Hakari Kurds, had long lusted after the rich booty of the Christians in the Upper Zab valleys. Though these people were poor in comparison with the inhabitants of large cities and fertile plains, yet they had a goodly property, and especially fine herds of cattle, a sufficient attraction for a Kurdish robber prince. Dr. Grant, who was aware of the project of the Kurdish chieftain, strove to avert the calamity. Peace-making or mediation is a noble office worthy of the Christian missionary, and the journey of Dr. Grant, through the most unruly Kurdish tribes, to the residence of Bedar Khan, in order to prevent a fearful massacre, redounds more to his honour than all his researches about the lost tribes of Israel. Bedar Khan received him courteously, smoked the tchibouk with him, and ate out of the same dish with him. The Nestorians said on this occasion, that the "lamb had dined with the lion." But the eloquence of the apostle of peace was not able to damp the fanaticism of Bedar Khan, the revenge of Nurflla Bey who had a feud with the Nestorian Patriarchy, or the thirst for plunder shared with them by Mahamad Khan from Lake Van, their third colleague. The band of Nurula Bey began their attack in the district of Disz, where the Patriarch then resided. Though the Nestorians had long been aware of the intentions of the Kurds, they allowed themselves to be surprised, and made but slight resistance. The Patriarch only thought of his own safety and ran away, leaving his mother and brothers to be' butchered, with thousands of other Nestorians, in the cruellest manner. The smoke of the burning villages eddied up over the Snowy Mountains, and the screams of injured women were mingled with the shouts of the victorious Kurds. Neither the helplessness of age, nor the innocence of childhood, found any mercy. Almost half the Tiarl fell in the massacre. Part of the survivers fled to Persia : many thousands remained as prisoners in the hands of the Kurds. The village of Sespatoi was the only place that offered a heroic and a desperate resistance, and all, save five or six who escaped into the steepest fastnesses, fell defending themselves. When nothing more remained to be destroyed, the murderers and plun- derers retired with their captives and booty, many of the boys being circumcised and forcibly converted to Islam. 346 NEV— NIS Thus this remarkable Alpine republic came to an end, and it is not probable it will ever recover, for the Nestorians will never lose the memory of their awful defeat or the Kurds of their triumph. Dr. Grant estimates the whole of the Kaldani nation, Catholic and Nestorian, in Persia, Kurdistan, and Turkey at about 200,000 souls. Dr. Grant says the word Kaldani is usually applied to the Catholics of this tribe, while the others are called Nestorians. This is contrary to Colonel Shiel's opinion, who says the whole nation is called Kaldani, and the divisions are Nestorian and Catholic. {Wagner — SAiel — Grant.) NEVERGTJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Kirman, Persia, 65 miles north of Bandar Abbas, over a spur of the main range which divides the drainage of the RQd-Khaneh-i-Duzdl from that of the Zanjan river. The ascent from a small stream near Godar on the north side is gradual, but the descent is steep and rocky and imprac- ticable for a horseman. {Smith.) NEYRIZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Fars, Persia, 125 miles east of Shiraz, 7 miles from the south-east point of lake of Neyriz. It is a poor town containing about 1,500 families including those of its three adjacent forts. It occupies a considerable space with its gardens and houses in a corner of the plain near mountains. Its bazaar possesses 40 or 50 shops and three caravanserais, but the former are of the meanest description. Though this place is on the high road from Shiraz to Kirman, the traffic between the two places is very limited. The district of Neyriz extends about 30 miles east of the town. The productions are much the same as those generally of other parts of Persia, namely, gram, millet, cotton, tobacco, and palmachristi, but not in great quantities, there being a scarcity of water ; the plain is therefore little culti- vated. Fruits, however, are abundant and cheap. Lead mines are found in its hills. {K. Abbott.) NIKA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, 17 miles west of Ashraf, 18 miles east of Sari. It is the chief place of a division of the same name, consisting of many villages which are peopled by a part of the Gereli tribe of Turkish extraction. A fine full stream of the same name runs through this division, over which there is a handsome bridge of one arch. {Fraser.) NIKALU— A Turkish tribe of Persia who formed one of the seven tribes to whom the name of Kizlbash was given by Shah Ismail. I do not know whether any of them still exist. {Malcolm.) NISHAPUR— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Khorasan, Persia, lying to the west of Mashad. It contains 1 2 sub-divisions, viz., 1, Nishapur ; 2, Darb-i-Kazi ; 3, Man- zoul; 4, Revand; 5, Teghanku; 6, Bar-i-Madan ; 7, Dahrud; 8, Ishkabad; 9, Baluk-i-Noh, and three others. In each division there are at least 100 kullahs or walled villages, with not less than ten, nor more than a hundred houses in each. There are 12 ever-running streams from the hills, and it is said that eight of the twelve thousand eanants of former days are still remaining ; but there is so little water in these that they are not equal to a fourth as many of the ordinary fulness. 347 NIS When Hasan All Mirza was governor of Persian Khorasan, 60,000 Irak tomans (39,000^.) were paid him annually from the province of Nishapur : the turquoise mines were rented for 1,000 tomans, and the rock salt mines for 300. In addition to the cash assessments, the prince took yearly from the province ten thousand ' khurwars' of grain, which (at the crown rate of composition of two tomans per maund) gives a further sum of 20,000 tomans. From this, a guess may be made at the yearly harvest. The Shah levies from a tenth to a fifth upon the produce of his country according to the fertility of the soil in different countries, or the degree of favor that he is inclined to show the people, it being the endeavour of every governor to return as deplorable an account as possible of the agricultural state of his district. Knowing that the Shah received ten thousand khurwars, we may make a calculation between the above-mentioned extreme rates, and suppose that the amount was, say, a seventh of the gross produce, or seventy thousand khurwars. It is said that the actual quantity of grain annually raised in the pro- vince might be fairly calculated at one hundred thousand khurwars. The soil of Nishapur is generally supposed to be much richer than it appears to be ; it is generally tilled for one year, and left fallow for two, and some parts of the district are cultivated only every fourth year. The average return of the seed sown is tenfold. Nishapur is celebrated for its fruits, which are considered the best in Khorasan ; and it also produces gram in large quantities, and silk and cotton ; the rewass too, a plant which grows in all parts of Persia and Afghanis- tan where the climate is cool, but nowhere so well as on the gravelly hills in this neighbourhood. This plant is a species of rhubarb, and the seed of it should be obtained by botanists, as it appears to thrive where little else would, and besides medical properties, it contains considerable saccharine matter. Fraser's account of the celebrated turquoise mines, situated about 40 mile, west of Nishapurs is the most complete of any : — " After passing through a gravelly country for about 25 or 30 miles, the road descends into the bed of a mountain stream, which it follows for a considerable way. It then strikes into a narrower glen, while, gradually ascending among the hills, it leads to a hollow at the foot of one higher than the rest : upon eminences in this hollow are situated two villages called Madan, which are inhabited by the miners, who are said to have originally emigrated from Badakhshan. " The glen which leads to the villages is bounded for several miles by hillocks of grey, red, yellow, brown, or white porphyritie earth, having some veins of a bright red color like that of red chalk. Those on the right hand are entirely bare ; those on the left are grassy. Beds of lime- stone or porphyritie , conglomerates occurred abundantly among these hil- locks, frequently lying like caps upon their summits. " These conglomerates vary in their texture and solidity, sometimes con- taining large and small, sometimes only innumerable small porphyritie and sandstone pebbles like those most commonly met with in our route from Tehran. Clay porphyry, either decomposed or in a solid state, was generally found under these conglomerates. Porphyritie rocks of various color and 348 NIS texture, grey with white spots, liver color with dark or lighter spots, or green ; and limestones in as great variety were found in great abundance, chiefly in large blocks or pebbles in the valley. " The soil of the hillocks and valley in which the villages are situated, appeared to consist of a mixture of clayey or porphyritic and calcareous earth. " The turquoise mines lie at a considerable height above the villages, in the body of the principal hill of the range ; there have as yet been no turquoises discovered in the other hills, although apparently of the same nature in form and substance as this. " The mines are six in number, namely : — 1st. — The Khuriish Mine. 2nd. — The Madan-i-Slah, or Black Mine. 2>rd.— The Abie Mine. teh. — The Kamarl Mine. Ml. — The Abdul Razaki Mine. Uh. — The Gaur-I-Sufed, or White Cavern. " The Khuriish mine makes no great appearance, nor does it afford fine specimens of the gem. A bed of light-grey porphyritic earth upon the side of the hill is worked into pits, and turned over and over by the miners, for the chance of finding some pieces of the gem attached to fragments of porphyritic rock which lies abundantly beneath. The place looks like an exhausted mine, but there is no considerable excavation to account for so much rubbish. " A little above this, round a shoulder of the hill, we found a great quantity of dark brown stones, which had been thrown out from a con- siderable excavation made under an overhanging rock of the same nature, this was called the Madan-i-siah or Black Mine. On looking round we found the stones and all the rock above full of the blue matter of the turquoise running in little veins in all directions, but chiefly between the lamina and among the crevices. The rock was entirely porphyritic, deeply tinged with iron. We found several small pieces of the gem sticking to fragments of the stone, and occasionally observed the turquoise matter budding, as it were, from the surface of detached pieces in the form of round pimples of the finest blue. Pebbles, loose or in conglomerates, filled up the larger crevices, and occupied spaces between the strata of the solid rock : these pebbles were of the same nature as the conglomerates described above, and small fragments of the gem were often found attached to them. " The next set of excavations, which are of great extent, in a rock exactly similar, at no great distance, are called the Auber Mine. " They are no longer worked, though it is difficult to account for the neg- lect for the rock appears to be quite as much pervaded with turquoise matter as that of the last-mentioned mine. Part of these excavations were covered with a white saline efflorescence, which the natives assured me was alum, but of which we could procure no specimens. Several patches of a fine verdigris green upon the roof seemed to indicate the presence of copper, but there was no getting at any part of the stained rock. The natives attributed this also to alum, and declared they never had heard of copper in the neighbourhood ; but their ignorance on these subjects is extreme. 349 N1S " From this place we descended to the Kamarl mines. Part of these are only pits dug in grey earth, like that of the Khurush mine; but the greater quantity of stones is obtained from two deep excavations in a solid dark brown rock, entirely resembling that of the two last mines, viz., clay porphyry strongly tinged with iron, through which the turquoise matter is curiously dispersed in numerous small veins. Water had stopped the work- ing in one pit ; but although the rapid slope of the hill on which it had been dug afforded the easiest means of drainage, the miners had not attempted to relieve it. " We now ascended considerably to a dell near the summit of the hill, in which is situated the chief mine, called, perhaps from its first discoverer, Abdul Razakl. " The principal excavation was under a rock, in many respects similar to that of the other mines, but exhibiting a greater variety in color and substance. Clay porphyry was most abundant, both compact and hard, and in a state of decomposition. There was much of a yellow oehreous clay in which the turquoise matter was plentifully found, though generally in a very imperfect state. Micaceous iron ore occurred in veins or masses, particularly amongst the harder parts of the rock, and all the stones were deeply tinged with various shades of iron. Fragments of jasper were also picked up, having pieces of the gem attached to them. " This mine affords the finest and largest specimens of the turquoise, and this crude matter of that gem appears very plentifully dispersed throughout the rocks and earth in which it has been excavated. This sometimes occurs in considerable masses of a pale drossy substance, either soft and pulverulent, or hard and compact ; sometimes in the same sort of veins that pervade the rocks of the other mines, but the latter form is here less prevalent. " The last mine that remains to be noticed is the Gaur-I-Sufed, or White Cave, which is now but little worked, although the excavations are very extensive. The rock of this mine, is of a very dark iron-tinged porphyry, much pervaded with iron ore. " The observations made in these several mines, as well as in many other parts of the mountain, both near its summit and its base, considered along with the specimens taken at the time, may probably afford a tolerably correct idea of the nature and composition of the range. It appears to consist of a mass of porphyritic rocks, intermingled with beds of clay and conglomerates of the same substances, all strongly tinged with iron, and in many places pervaded with micaceous iron ore. The turquoise, or calaite of Professor Fisher, is disseminated through this in veins, nodules, and irregular masses. " The mines are all the property of the crown, and are farmed to the highest bidder. The rent demanded for the year in which Fraser visited them was 2,000 tomans of Khorasan, equal to about £2,700 sterling; but this being considered exorbitant, the Abdul Razaki mine and some others continued unlet. They are all worked without either skill or judgments, but with a little more of these might be rendered by far more productive than they are." {Fraser — Connolly — Ferrier.) NISHAPUR— Lat. 36° 12' 20". Long. 58° 49' 27". Elev. A town in Khorasan, Persia, 70 miles west of Mashad, south-west of Bokhara, west of Balkh, 251 miles north-west of Herat, 409 miles east of Tehran. 350 NIS It is situated in a magnificent plain 18 miles in length, covered with villages and trees, and intersected by numerous streams and canals. The town of Nishapur is about two miles in circuit, but its walls enclose many ruins and vacant spaces of ground upon which buildings once stood. It contains 3,000 houses, and its bazaars are well filled, and supplies cheap. The walls of the town and the ditch are in a bad state of repair, as is the citadel. The handsomest caravanserai at this place is outside the walls on the road to Mashad. Nishapur is said to have been founded by Tapamtir, a prince of the Peshdadian dynasty, and was formerly one of the richest and largest cities of Persia, and one of the four royal cities of Khorasan. It then bore the name of Abarshahr, and was taken and destroyed by Alexander the Great. Shahpur restored it, and to perpetuate the fact gave it his name, and erected an immense statue, which remained standing until the first invasion of the country by the Mussulmans, who in their zeal destroyed it. Nishapur also suffered greatly from the invasion of the Arabs, and it would have utterly perished had it not been subsequently rebuilt and re -peopled, first by the Taherides, and afterwards by the Soffarides. Mah- mud, the Ghaznevide, who later still, and in the reign of Sebektagy, his father, was governor of Khorasan, fixed his residence at Nishapur, which contributed much to its prosperity. Toghrul Beg, the first Sultan of the dynasty of the Seljukldes, also resided here, and his princely liberality restored it to its former splendour ; but in the year 1153 (Hejira 548), and in the reign of the Sultan Sanjar, one of the same dynasty, the Turkmans took and ravaged it so completely that in the words of the Persian historian Khaganl — when the inhabitants, who had fled at the approach of these hordes, returned after their departure — it was- impossible to recognize, amidst the mass of ruins, the position in which their houses once stood. Nevertheless, such was the fertility of the country that, with the assistance of the princes of Khaurizm, into whose hands it fell after the Seljukides, Nishapur rose once more like a phoenix from its ashes. But the disasters which attended the fate of this unfortunate city were not yet over, for in 1220 (Hejira 617) Kuli Khan, son of Ghengis Khan, besieged and took it. This monster was even more savage than the Turkomans, for he not only made it a heap of ruins, but massacred the inhabitants and the people of the adjoining territory to the number of two millions. From this period Nishapur became the sport of fortune in every possible way, reviving and perishing in turn, and has never regained its ancient position and prosperity. Placed on the extreme frontier of Persia, on the side of Tartary, the Mongols, the Turkmans, and Uzbeks sacked and plundered it almost from year to year. Towards the commence- ment of the eighteenth century it was little more than one vast ruin, and remained in this deplorable state until after the death of Nadir Shah. On the death of Nadir Shah it was seized by Abbas Kuli Khan, a chief of the Turkish tribe of Byat. His usurpation was supported by ten thousand families of his tribe, who were settled near that city, and he remained in undisturbed possession until attacked by Ahmed Shah Abdali, who took Nishapur and carried its lord a prisoner to Kabal ; but the good qualities and good fortune of Abbas Kuli combined to render this mis- 351 NOB— NUR fortune the means of his advancement. He became a favorite of his conqueror, who married his sister; and the daughter of the Afghan monarch was bestowed upon the eldest son of his captive. The chief of the Byats, strong in the friendship and alliance of the royal house of Abdali, returned to Nishapur, and the remainder of his life was devoted to the improvement of that town and the districts dependent upon it. After the death of Abbas Kull he was eventually succeeded by Jafar Khan, who submitted to Agha Mahammad Khan on his invasion of Khorasan about 1796, since when the district and town has been under the rule of a governor deputed by the Kajar viceroy of Khorasan. (Kinneir — Fraser — Connolly — Clerk — Felly — Malcolm — Ferrier.) NOBATCHAI— A river of the Persian district of Talish, which falls into the Caspian between Astara and Hehve. (Holmes.) NOBFLEUR— Lat. 26°11'30". Long. 54°30'40". Elev. A small uninhabited island on the Persian Gulf, ten miles south-south-west of Polior off the coast of Laristan. It is destitute of vegetation, is low, but has a hill in the middle of it, and a ledge of rugged rocks rise from its west extremity, having from \\ to 7 fathoms on it. Outside the reef you may anchor in 16 or 20 fathoms, but the island should not be approached nearer than 25 fathoms, unless it is intended to anchor, and in the day time. (Kinneir — Bruchs . ) NOKAB— A village in Khorasan, Persia, north-north-west of Birjan. It is built in two divisions, one on each side of a hollow, the castle being in the midst of the south side and quite ruinous. The inhabitants are Arabs. A few black tents are usually pitched outside the village. A considerable quantity of. saffron is produced here and a little silk. (Forbes.) NOKANDEH— A village in Mazandaran, Persia, 35 miles west of Astrabad. It is a strag- gling place situated deep in a forest. The houses are of the simplest con- struction, being made of a light framework of wood filled up with clay. (Fraser — Burnes.) NOKARA khana— A remarkable rock in Fars, Persia, near Band Amir, 30 miles from Persepolis. It is a curious looking rock which forms the termination of a range of hills, and forms an amphitheatre of huge and stupendous rocks. It is so called from its echo, which Persians believe was so great as to cause the sounds of drums or music to be heard from this place to the Chehl Minar, nine miles distant. (Morier.) NUDIZ— A village in the plain of Rudbar, Kirman, Persia, possessing a small fort. (Abbott.) NtJRABAD— A fort in Fars, Persia, about 20 miles south of Fahllan. It is built in the plain and flanked by four bastions. On every side of it are the reed-built huts and tents of the Mama Senni belonging to the tribe of Bekesh (Be Bode.) 352 NUR— NUV NORI— Morier mentions that during the Russo- Persian war of 1810, a regiment, 700 strong, of the Nurl tribe of Mazandaran was raised. I can find no mention of this tribe, unless they are the inhabitants of the district of Nur, mentioned by Holmes as lying east of Kujur and west of Amol. This district, he says, is inhabited entirely by its own peasantry, who have never allowed any nomads to settle among them. The revenue of Nur amounts to about 6,000 tomans in money and a proportion of produce in kind. (Morier — Holmes.) NURMANSHAHR— A district of Kirman, Persia, situated to the south-east of Bam. The district of Nurmanshahr extends in length, from the waste dividing it from Belochistan to the city of Bam, about eighty-five miles, and in breadth from thirty to seventy-five. Its boundary to the westward is the province of Kirman, of which it is now deemed part ; to the eastward it has the desert, as already mentioned ; and north and south, two ranges of mountains, the last of which are by much the highest and at all seasons crowned vith snow, as they were so when Pottinger saw them, at which period it was exceedingly hot in the plain beneath. The Ghilzae Afghans, who had long possessed Nurmanshahr, were expelled from it by the Persian government, about 1800, and this caused the tribes inhabiting the frontiers of Belochistan to re-people the deserted villages, and embrace the Shia. Islamism, and exult extremely at the empty honor of being subjects of the King of Persia. The soil of Nurmanshahr is chiefly a dark-coloured rich mould, but to the southward, as you approximate to the desert, it partakes of the same sandy and arid nature. It is on the whole, however, very fertile, and well watered by mountain streams arising from natural springs, and likewise the progressive melting of the snow. These springs, besides answering all the purposes of cultiva- tion, turn a great number of water-mills. During the summer and autumn months the climate is reputed warm but healthy, which the looks of the people can testify. Were this province under an enlightened government, it would soon be one of the most productive in the kingdom of Persia. The revenues realized from it in 1810 were above forty thousand rupees, after paying the military establishment that is kept for the protection of the different towns and villages : this probably may involve an expense of half a lakh of rupees annually, so that the total may be computed at one lakh or twelve thousand five hundred pounds sterling. Its productions are grain of all kinds, madder, cotton, roses for conserves and distilling, fruit (of which they export walnuts), almonds and dried grapes, honey and gum : the latter is collected from the different species of the babul tree, and is very valuable, being thought equal to, or better than, that brought from the Red Sea ; it is packed in leathern bags holding seven pounds and a half each, and thus disposed of in the market of Kirman. (Pottinger.) NC VARAN— A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 73 miles from Hamadan towards Tehran, from which it is 111 miles distant. It is situated in a valley near a small river, and contains from 8 to 900 hearths, and is surrounded by vineyards and orchards which are exceedingly productive and a source of great profit to the villagers. (Ferrier — Taylor.) 353 2 w 0. OBAR— A village in Azarbijan, Persia, district of Pusht-i-Koh, 42 miles north-east of Zanjan. It is the residence of the chief of Pusht-i-Koh. (Rawlinson.) OJAN— A plain in Azarbijan, Persia, 30 miles east-south-east of Tabrez. It has been for ages the favourite encamping ground of the kings of Persia on account of its great extent and excellent pasturage. Sometimes as many as 90,000 troops have been encamped there. {Morier.) OJAN— A plain in Fars, Persia, north of Shiraz. It was formerly a favourite hunting ground of the kings of Persia. (Kinneir.) ONAR— A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 48 miles on the road from Ahar to Ardabll, from which it is 34 miles distant. It is a large village surrounded by gardens and orchards, and situated in a richly cultivated valley running down from Mount Savalan. There is an abundance of water. (Todd.) ORMAZ— Lat. 27°5'55". Long. 56°29'5". Elev. An island in the Persian Gulf, situated 12 miles off the coast of Kirman, 12 miles south-east of Bandar Abbas, and 15 miles north-east of Kishm. It is 12 miles in circumference, and its form is nearly circular. It is a barren rocky island entirely denuded of soil, and without vegetation of any kind, and formed of rock salt and sulphur, and its appearance is the most desolate that can be imagined. The island abounds in iron and copper ore," specimens of which may be picked up in every part, even the sand in the sea-shore being composed of the finest particles of iron pulverized by the action of the waves. Across the plain, to the east of the fort towards the rugged hills, which line the east side of the island, a singular phenomenon presents itself, which strikingly resembles a frozen sea. The hills for a consider- able distance from their bases are covered with an incrustation of salt, which in some places has the transparency of ice : in others its surface is partially covered with a thin layer of dusky red-coloured earth, receiving its tinge from oxide of iron, with which the whole surface of the island is deeply impregnated. The island, says Kinneir, resembles, when viewed from the sea, a mass of rocks and shells, thrown up by a violent convulsion of nature from the bottom of the ocean to the surface, nor will a visit to the shore tend much to remove this impression, for this has every appearance indicative of a former volcanic eruption ; and many others, among whom are Drs. MacNeil and Heddle, appear to have entertained the same opinion, but Fontanier, who landed for the express purpose of examining into this question, is of a contrary opinion, and he mentions having collected a number of the rocks and sent them to Calcutta for scientific opinions. There is no spring of fresh water or well to be found in the whole island, and the only water found is in reservoirs, of which there are many : the water in these, however, is said to be sweet. 354 ORM The reservoirs are now mostly out of repair, but are generally about 15 yards in length by 7 or 8 in breadth, and covered with an arched roof. A few fowls and some sheep brought from the main land may be obtained here, but no other supplies are procurable, as vessels never visit it except to obtain salt. The harbour is situated on the north-east side of the island, and is both secure and convenient, and there is good anchorage to the east of the fort in a north-wester, and to the westward in a south-easter. On the north side of the fort there is excellent anchorage, where a vessel may be sheltered from all winds in three fathoms mud within half a mile of the shore. A large vessel may also anchor in six fathoms about two miles off. The harbour is perfectly free from shoals and rocks, and may be entered with safety keeping rather closer to the island than the Persian shore. The following are the bearings from the anchorage : — Ormaz light-house, south 12 west ; extremes of the island from south 43 west to south 50 east. Ormaz is said to have been an immense city at one time, containing 40,000 inhabitants, but little trace of this splendour is now existent. In 1514 it was taken possession of by the Portuguese, by whom it was held till 1622, when they were driven out by the English and Persians. The ruins of their fort is still existent, and are thus described by Pelly : — "The fort of solid masonry construction is still standing, but is quite unrepaired. A few useless guns, bearing date the early part of the eighteenth century, lie about the bastions. Three sides of the fort are washed by the sea, and the side facing inward is strengthened by a wet ditch cut entirely through the narrow neck of land on which the place is built. It seems that during the occupation of the Portuguese, a small inlet of the sea on the eastern side of the fort had sufficient depth of water for vessels of con- siderable tonnage to lay immediately under the wharves. This inlet is, however, now filled up. " The other side of the ditch forms the apex of the town, which stretched in an irregular triangular form along either coast line, till it reached a range of hills, forming at once the base of the triangle and a natural wall of defence. The length of the perpendicular, from the fort ditch to these hills, may be about a mile and a half ; while two towers still standing at either extremity of the base, immediately above the beach and marking the limits of the town, may be about two miles apart. The western of these towers still bears the name of Urgazi, and the eastern one that of Mesh- shateh. Outside the latter, and stretching south-eastward, seem to have been suburbs parallel with the shore bine and leading down to a pier distant three or four miles. This pier and suburb, which bear the name of Trompuk, are alleged to be still standing, but I had not the leisure to visit them.'" After the expulsion of the Portuguese the island was held for a time by the Persians, and it was afterwards farmed to the Imam of Maskat, who still derives a considerable revenue from the salt which is exported. Ormaz also became a place of refuge for the followers of Zoroaster, when the Mahamadan religion was propagated in Persia, and here they lived for some -— time hiding themselves in rocks and caves from their oppressors. From this they afterwards fled to Bombay, where, under the names of Parsees, they have become very numerous, and are the most intelligent, industrious, and enter- prising race in that island. 355 ORZ— PAK The Imam of Maskat has a garrison of 100 men in the fort, who arje under the authority of a Sliekh. Besides these there are ahout 300 souls. in the island, nearly all of whom are solely engaged in collecting salt and fishing. (Kinneir — Fraser — Kewpthome — Whitlocke — Bruchs — Taylor — Felly.) ORZU— A plain and district of Kirman, Persia, situated at its south-west comer, extending about 30 to 40 miles each way. It contains 7 little village forts generally surrounded by huts of boughs and reeds. These forts are real strongholds, the possession of which secures that of the territory all round. The revenue is 1,200 tomans, and the produce of the fields consists of the articles usually found in the south of Persia. The plain of Orzu is extensive, running in length east and west ; its south side is covered with bushes, and is very stony, but towards the centre of it is a light fine soil. (K. Abbott) OTUR— . A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which crosses tlie road a little east of Khoi and falls into the Aras near Julfa. (Stuart.) P. PABAZ— A village in Khorasan, Persia, 18 miles from Nishapur, on the road to Tun. It contains 400 houses inhabited by Persians. (Ferrier.) PA-BREHNEH— A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 61 miles from, and on the road to, Yezd. It has a small fort and a spring of water. (K. Abbott.) PACHANAN— A village in Khemseh district, Persia, 32 miles from Kaszvin, on the road to Resht on a river of the same name. There is a caravanserai here, which is described as a strong building of brick, standing 200 feet above the river. The river bed is quite 200 yards broad at this spot, flowing in separate streams from 6 to 40 feet. It is usually shallow, but after the rains becomes quite unfordable, and caravans are sometimes detained from one to ten days on its banks. (Eastwick.) PAIKOTAL— A village in Kirman, Persia, 15 miles on the road from Khubbes to Kirman, from which it is 32 miles distant. It is walled and contains 500 houses inhabited by Persians. PAIPOL— A ruined bridge on the Kerkhah river, Persia, at the point where it leaves the hills. Below the bridge the river is fordable in summer for horsemen. It is, however, difficult owing to the rapidity of the stream, and caravans generally prefer crossing it at Iwan-i-kerkhah, four miles lower down. (Layard.) PAKALA— A fort in Kirman, Persia, 140 miles from Kirman, on the road to Yezd. It is small and built on the summit of a rocky precipice. (Pottinger.) 356 PAL— PER PALESHT— A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 18 miles from Tehran, on the Mashad road. (Holmes.) PAREZ— A village in Kirman, Persia, 68 miles west-north-west of Kirman, on the road to Shahr-i-babak. It is a considerable place romantically situated in a deep glen, the remainder of which is completely filled up with gardens, a rapid little stream forcing its way through the midst of it. This village is noted for the hawks reared here, and for its ancient mine of turquoise, which is no doubt the one alluded to by Marco Polo. (Gibbons.) PARGHAN— A fort in the district of Karzin, Ears, Persia, south-east of Firozabad. It is situated on a mound, and is one of the strongest places of the kind in the vicinity. The ground on which the fort stands is encircled by a dry ditch. The walls and towers are in good condition and rendered doubly strong by having embankments of earth raised against the former within, and cramming the latter with the same material. (K. Abbott.) PARROW— A range of hills in Persia which bounds the Kirmanshah plain to the north, and terminates abruptly at Behistan. (Jones.) PARSCHI— A village in Azarbijan, Persia, 5 miles north-west from Khoi, on the road to Erivan. It is situated on a beautiful tract of grass land as even as a bowling green. This is the same village as Stuart's Pereh. (Morier.) PASANGtR— A caravanserai in Irak Ajami, Persia, 27 miles from Kashan, 13 miles from Kum, on the road between them. It is situated in a plain. (Morier.) PASENGAN— A village in Irak Ajami, 87 miles from Tehran, and 137 miles from Ispahan. There is a serai and post-house here. (Clerk.) PAYISTAN— A village in Khorasan, Persia, 20 miles from Tahas towards Blrjan. It is walled and contains 100 houses inhabited by Persians. (Ferrier.) PEDAM— A village in Fars, Persia, 33 miles on the road from Jehrum to Firozabad, from which it is distant 60 miles. The village is a collection of hovels, but it has beautiful groves of palm, orange and lemon trees, and the plain in which it is situated extensively cultivated. (K. Abbott.) PEHKIN— A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, 52 miles from Kumeshah towards Ispahan. It is a large village, but its water is rather brackish. (Gibbons.) PEPUSHT— A village in the isle of Kishm, Persian Gulf, 12 miles east of Lafb. It is situated about 1 mile inland. Some cattle and poultry can be obtained. (Briicks.) PEREH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarhijan, Persia, 6 miles west of Khoi. It is a pretty village situated at the west extremity of the plain of Khoi. Its houses built of mud or of unburnt brick, are divided by orchards and embosomed in trees, chiefly walnuts. (Stuart.) 357 PER PEREH CHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises- in the Gilan Dagh and falls into the Aras above Julfa, passing by the village of Kara Ziazin. (Morier.) PERSEPOLIS— The ruins of an ancient city in Pars, Persia. These will be found fully described in the works of Le Brun, Chardin, Morier, Ouseley and others. PERSIA— Lat. 25° 40' to 39° 50'. Long. 44° 20' to 61° 35'. Elev. A country of Asia lying between Turkey in Asia, the Caspian and Turk- mania, Afghanistan, and the Persian Gulf. Boundaries. — The boundary between Persia and Russia was laid down in 1828 by Commissioners mutually agreed on, and it is thus described by Colonel Monteith, the English Commissioner : — " The line of demarkation runs from the nearest point of the Bayazid territory to the summit of the mountain called Little Arrarat, passing over a barren and stony ground, from thence in a right line to the source of the river and principal branch of the Kara Su, leaving on the left the hill of Sultan Tapa, situated within the Russian territory. Near this, crossing the high road from Maku to Erivan, it continues over an unculti- vated plain to the head of the Kara Su, then follows the course of this river till its junction with the Aras, so that all the lands and villages on the right belong to Persia, and those on the left to Russia. " From the mouth of the Kara Su opposite Sharur Dagh, the frontier is formed by the bed of the Aras, the islands belonging to the party to whose bank of the river they are nearest. Thus, those situated nearest the right bank belonging to Persia, those to the left to Russia. " Four versts below the junction of the Kara Su, opposite the village of Kara Koine on the right bank, and Sardashli Kishlak on the left, are three islands, one belonging to Persia, the other two to Russia. The Aras, after a winding course of eight versts, passes by the village of Zenghiena on the right ; at five more Moganlu on the left ; and after five and a half more the islands of Kuli Gerni and Aga Jerime depending on the left bank of the river, those of Amir and Nordi to the right. On the first passes the great road from Khoi to Erivan by the ford of Ambachi. At a further dis- tance of three versts are two small islands and the ruined village of Chalash depending on the left bank (here the river is fordable) ; three and a half versts below this is an island of one verst in length depending on the right bank, and at two and a half more arrive at the mouth of the Arpa Chai, joining on the left bank on the same side of the river ; at five and a half versts further joins also a small stream called the Kara Su, flowing from the Deva Boina lake ; continuing five and a half versts pass the village of Kara Husen on the right bank, and at three more the village and island of Kara Haji All (where is a ford) ; three and three quarters lower flows into the Aras, from the side of Persia, another stream called the Kara Su, and at one on the same side is the village of Diza Kand, where there is a ford and two islands, one belonging to the right, the other to the left bank. At eight versts the Maku river joins from the Persian side near the village of Arabler. The Aras here enters the hill of Shah Takht ; opposite a village of the same name is a ford. " The Aras continuing its course receives from the right bank the small river Sari Chai, near the mouth of which is an island belonging to Russia and two others to Persia ; below this falls in the small stream of Kara Gul 358 PER from the right. Here again the Aras passes through a hilly country, and at three versts there are four islands, three belonging to Russia, one to Persia; five versts further is the bridge of Sinnukh Kopi, near the village of KargalQ. On the right of the river and a verst below are three islands near the right bank. Here the river takes a southerly direction, and after five versts forms an island of one verst in length belonging to Persia ; at one more is a small island near the left bank, and at one and a half versts more the Kiagateh stream joins from the right. The river now assumes its former direction (north-east). At three versts pass an island belonging to Persia near the ford of Lower Kiagateh, after which the river again turns south- east to the mouth of the small brook Kelani Chai, four versts below, in which space are two considerable islands depending on the right bank. Here the river opens from the hills and enters the great plain of Nakhshvan. At one and a half versts there are two islands depending on the left bank. It continues its course to the village of Kaloni, situated on the right bank, from whence descends a small river of the same name, continuing along the river opposite the mouth of Kaoru Dara. On the right bank is a small island depending on Russia, then to the ford of Kizl Kishlak, and at six and a half versts passes the heights of Kivri, situated on the left bank. The river then turns to the south with a very serpentine course, forming many peninsulas almost entirely sur- rounded by the river, and at two versts receiving the waters of two small streams from the left, viz., Shor Dara and the Nakhshvan stream. Seven and a half versts lower is situated the village of Bulgam. On the left side here is a tolerable ford and an island belonging to the villages. At one and a half versts are two other islands near the left bank, and at four more another belonging to the right. Near this are the ruins of a bridge said to have been built by Shah Abbas ; from the last point the river no longer forms the frontier according to the fourth article of the treaty, the frontier having a radius of three and a half versts round the Tete du pont of Abbasabad. " Eleven rsyons having been set off from the advanced angles and gorges of the Tete du pont, a half circle was described, rising on the right bank of the river and marked by pyramids of masonry, surrounded by a small ditch. The first pyramid is placed near the ruined bridge or dam, and near a small island belonging to Persia. The second is at 175 toises from the first on the bank of a ravine (between the second and third passes the road from Abbasabad to Maku) . The fourth is placed on a sandy plain. The fifth 287 toises from the fourth and built on a long ravine. At the same distance is built the sixth (287 toises) on a hill close to the great Khol road. The seventh is at 394 toises passing over the mounds called Besh Tapa (5 hills), on a hill at 570 toises is fixed the eighth. The ninth is 757 toises crossing five ravines, the ground declining rapidly to the Aras. The tenth is situated on the side of the high rock called Kala All Dag and distant two versts and 425 toises, also passing five ravines, the first of which is called Kash Dara, three- others Alicha Dara, the fifth Kermis Dara (red ravine) . The last pyramid is placed on a mound near the right bank of the river and seven versts from the first. " From the eleventh pyramid the frontier between the two states again is formed by the bed of the Aras. The river here takes an easterly direction passing through the valley Goufsangha, confined by the rocks of, 359 PER Migrene on the left, and on the right by the mountains of Soudga. A narrow and difficult path only exists along its banks, to the juncture of the small stream of Ak Dara falling from the mountains of Migrene. The Aras then flows between the Soudka and Ashaka Dagh (lower mountains) . For three versts it runs in the direction south-east, receiving the ravine of Karrukan and Dara Shinl ; opposite to the last are two small sandy islands belonging to Russia. One and a half versts below this is the Armenian village of Karsinkan (or Dara Sham), situated near the junc- tion of the ravine, through which flows the Kaolur river from a district of that name in Kurdistan and passing by Khoi. The river now turns north- east ; at one and a half versts passes the mouth of the valley, in which is situated the convent of St. Stephens, two versts from the right bank. The river now takes an easterly direction to the ravine of Kelite Dara and Geoskagaesel. For five versts it is closely shut in by the Julfa hills on one side and Kilisa mountains on the other. Taking a north- east direction at four and a half versts, it passes the ancient town of Julfa on the left bank, and the small stream of Hasanlu, and at three versts lower the Elengak river ; one verst below this is the ruined bridge of Julfa, and a beautiful stone temple on the left bank near the bridge, which is sometimes called the Kirmanshah bridge. The river now runs through an open and barren country ; taking a south-south-east direction it passes at two and a half versts three islands depending on the right bank, at the same distance lower down two more belonging to Persia and one to Russia. Near the last is the ford of Julfa and high road from Erivan to Tabrez. The river then turns due east, and at four versts passes three islands, two belonging to the right bank, one of which is one verst in length, one small one depending on the left. These islands are near the rock called Shekh-Kuli Kala and the ford of Taliga. The river continues the same course for the space of four and a half versts to the village of Talch'ie on the Russian side, and an island belonging to the right bank. The river is here bounded by the valley called Shekh Seami and the rocks called Kizl Kia : on the left bank depends three considerable islands. Still holding the same direction for thirteen versts and a half, and passing through the before-mentioned valley arrive at two islands belonging to Russia (one is a verst in length) . One and a half versts below this, the Kill an stream joins from the left near the village of Lower Asad and opposite the village of Maraza which stands on the right. Holding an east course at one verst J pass an island of nearly two versts in length, depending on the right bank and a lesser one on the left ; at one verst it reaches the ford of Ahmad Awa and mouth of the small stream of Tlgulan coming from the left. Prom hence it is five versts further to the Russian village of Testa and stream of the same name, near which are four small islands depending on the left bank. " At three versts falls into the Aras the stream of Diza Dara, near which are three small islands, two belonging to Persia, one to Russia. The river now changes to south-east as far as the junction of the Urdabad Water, a distance of two versts having passed two considerable islands belonging to the left and one to the right bank (here is a ford) ; it now turns east among rocks for one and a half versts till it arrives at the Persian village Iri, and a stream, called Karaol Chai, coming from the same side ; near this are five small islands, of which three belong to Persia, among them is a good ford near the hili called Sari Tapa. 3G0 PER " One verst lower down the Aras is closely shut in by the rocks of Malik Ibrahim on the left and Kara Dash on the right, and taking an easterly direction it forces its way through the narrow valley of Assarout to the rock of Pushta standing at the foot of the mountain Sarana, situated on the left bank. " At one verst lower passes the stream of Dara Shine, on which, and in a deep recess of the mountains, is situated the village of Kalld belonging to Russia. Here there are a few hundred yards of open ground on the left bank. At three versts joins from the right the stream and valley of Dashtglr : for seven vesrts more the river forces its way through a stony and difficult defile formed by the high rocks of Kental on the right and Sarav on the left, among which is situated the convents of Sarpa Agnis. At three versts passes the valley and bed of the Kortchevan torrent (generally dry), and passes an island one quarter of a verst in length belonging to Persia. Here is the ford of Nardouse, so called from a long valley on the right, through which runs the road from Megeri and this part of Kara Bagh to Tabrez. Three quarters of a verst lower down is the ferry-boat ; at two versts passes the river and village of Dusultl, called also the Erey or Aslamal river, having its source in Kara Dagh. Near this is an island half a verst in length depending on the left bank : following the river for two versts passes the Persian fortress of Kurdasht on the right, and at the same distance lower down, the mouth of the stream and valley of Megeri coming from the left, near which are two islands depending on that village. The Aras now takes a north-easterly direction shut in by the All Dara Dagh mountains on the left, and Kara Dagh mountains on the right for nine versts, and forms eight small islands belonging to Russia and four to Persia. Taking then a south-east course for five versts it passes an island of half a verst in extent. Near the left bank, turning again east for thirteen versts, it receive, the small stream Kimmal flowing from Kara Bagh. Here are five islands, of which four are on the right bank and one on the left. The villages of Messan and Kul Ali are on this point of the frontier, and at a short distance from the left bank are the considerable villages of All Dara and Noad Dug, near the mountains of Alazur in Kara Bagh. At two versts lower the Aras receives the small river of 'Uch Debina, which passes the village of Sharasle and flows out of the mountains of Uch Debina in Kara Dagh. At a verst and a half passes the small river Sagirt : coming from the left, at two and a half more, the Koevennil Chai stream joins the Aras at a village of the same name, near which are two islands belonging to Persia. " After five versts passes the Persian village Kul All, opposite the rocks of Akband, forming a defile on the left bank : turning to the north-east, at five and a half versts, the stream of Gensan flows from the right. Here the valley of the Aras enlarges considerably, and at eight versts is joined by the Zamtaff from the mountains on the left. Here are two islands, one belonging to the right, the other to the left bank ; and after three more versts three more islands belonging to Persia, situated near the mouth of the Elgina river, the valley of which forms a stony and difficult pass into Persia, called the Gates of Elgina. " At a short distance from this the Aras forms nine islands, of which eight are near the right bank and one the left. It then passes the old castle of Sindian, built on a rock close to the Persian side of the river, which is here 361 2x PER joined by the Bassut stream flowing from Kara Bagh. The river is again divided by six islands, of which four belong to Russia. " A steep range of rocks now intercepts the road along the right bank, through which a passage has been cut, called the Delik Dash (or hole in the rock) : four versts below this the Chohunder river falls into the Aras from the Russian district of Kapan, by which name the river has sometimes been called. Standing at its mouth is the old castle of Terrie Kala. " The river now bends to the south-east, forming twelve islands, of which two only depend on the left bank, passing the mouth of the Bergashal, a considerable river flowing through the Russian province of Kara Bagh. At fifteen versts lower down, another considerable stream, the Karkh Sii, joins from the Persian side, and a small one from the left called Shokh. Near this are two small islands attached to the right bank, and in a distance of seven more versts, to the old bridge of Khuda Afarid, are seventeen small islands, of which two belong to Persia. From this point the Aras takes direction nearly east for four versts to the Ghenat spring, one more, to the ravine of Larijan, two and a half to that of Shonmuel, all of which join from the right. On the latter, at some distance in the hills, is a village of the same name. Following the river on the left are the hills of Deri, and you pass the Ashak Maidan which is shut in by two old castles, (Sailed Kiz Kala. "At six versts joins the Safarlu stream, passing a village of that name belonging to Persia. To this point there are fifteen islands, eight be- longing to the right and seven to the left bank of the river, along which extends the great plain of Tartar Doozey. From Safarlu to the stream of Chakmak is four versts, passing two islands belonging to Persia and three to Russia, from whose side that stream runs. At five versts two small brooks join from each side- — Gao Dara from the hill of Jan on the left, and Selin Chai from the right. In this space are eleven islands near the right bank. " In ten versts more passes the ford and Russian village of Merahan. The river here divides into many channels forming also eleven islands like the former near the Persian side. At two versts below the ford is a consider- able island containing the hamlets of Muktar and Servan belonging to Persia. The river now turns north-north-east through an open country, and at sixteen versts passes the artificial mound of Aslanduz at the mouth of the Dara Ward or Kara Su river coming from Persia. " The bed of the river is encumbered with weeds and underwood, forming 14 islands, nine near the left, and five near the right bank. There are here many fords, but difficult. At two versts lower joins the small stream of Chekini from the left and Kishlak of Bossanti. In this distance are five islands near the last-mentioned bank. From this point the river takes an easterly course, and at five versts the Karachai joins from the left, on which bank is the village of All Kargeh (here is a tolerable ford). At six and a half versts are the Kondalan ravine and village also on the same side. The river, continuing in the same easterly direction over the great plain of Mogan, for seventeen versts to the ruined city of Altau, situated on the right bank of the river (here fordable), has, in this distance, 12 islands belonging to Russia and three to Persia : from this it is three versts to a mean distance between the upper and lower fords of Yedi Baluk (the best 362 PER in this part of the river) . In this space are twelve islands belonging to Persia and three to Russia. " At this point formerly the Aras ceased to be the frontier, but now, by the fourth article of the late treaty, a space of 21 versts was ceded to Persia for the convenience of wandering tribes who pasture their cattle here during the winter. " In the space of 21 versts (during which the Aras still continues to mark the frontier) are 29 islands, sixteen of the most considerable belonging to Persia, the smaller to Russia. " At the before-mentioned distance of 21 versts, and one from the mound called Bairam Tapa, was built a pyramid to mark the boundary between the two states of Persia and Russia. " From this pyramid the frontier passes in a right line through the plain of Mogan, in a direction of south 32^ east, to another pyramid erected near Balasawar on the Balarud river, a distance of 45 versts, the intermediate space being traced by a line of pyramids (or stone circles) of six feet high. " Prom this point the Balarud river, for the distance of 21 versts, viz., from the junction of the Adina Bazar stream with the Sari-Gamish (whose united waters take the name of the Balarud) to the pyramid situated near the mound of Balasawar, forms the frontier, that is, all lands on the right belong to Russia, and those on the left to Persia. The line of demarcation having arrived at the junction of the Sari-Gamish and Adina Bazar, ascends the latter river, and at eight versts receives the Jain stream (sometimes called the Guermey) from a village of that name. Ten versts from this the Alazar stream also joins from the Persian side, as also the Khoja Dara from the same quarter, the frontier always following the bed of the Adina Bazar, which is joined at the old town of Adina Bazar by the Lakin Chai from the east (or Russian side); half a verst higher up receives the Derin Kabat from the Kalajik mountains within the Persian frontier, and situated a short distance from the mountains of Khal Khonah. Thus the small streams of Talkhi Chai. Shaterlu Chai, Bulaverd Chai, Neal, and Chuleperan, or Amestan Ali Abad, Legmachini Arra, Digal, and half of the village and lands of Seak belong to Russia. The small streams Kara Kesh and Konlitanna, besides the villages of Tukamma, Hamesha, Shamba, Seli, Khanleo, Kishlak Barram Wan, Mogoneh, Amestan Lower, Ocha, and half the village of Seak belong to Persia. " The frontier having arrived at the top of the mountains of Khal Khonah, takes a westerly direction along the range. Passing over the top of the hills, called Kalajah Gaz, Gaz, Plra Shah Verdi, Asnavar Kala and Kara Dalan, it turns to the south-west, ascending to an opening in the mountains between the Jain and Wellash streams, and again ascends to the highest part of the Jekier mountains. " From the highest peak in this mountain the line of demarcation extends along the great range of Talish running towards the south. According to the letter of the treaty, the ridge which divides the streams — flowing on the one side into the Caspian Sea, and on the other into the River Kara Su of Per- sia — forms the boundary. The line passes from the before-mentioned peak of Jekier to the rocks of Signak, and at one a half versts reaches the peak of Karej Dagh. At one and a half versts further passes over the peak of Laugana, leaving on the left the valley of Ketchekran and on the right that of Agis Gudek, cutting the road from Mishkin to Mogan. 363 PER " In the same direction, at three versts, it reaches the mountains of Shah Takht, whence turning south-east, and following the crest of this mountain, for two versts it passes over the rocks of Karoul Dash : descending this height at two versts, it crosses the road from Mishkin to Arkewan ; and at six versts the high peak, called Kalajak, situated between the small streams of Kapan Chai of Talish and Cholpa Chai of Arsha, crossing the part of the range called Savash Gedik ; at six versts it reaches the head of the Kizl. " The mountain here turns to the east over a ridge between the heights of Karonchun on the side of Russia and Alar Kia on that of Persia. The frontier again takes a direction of south-east along the same ridge, and at five versts is marked by the mountains of Maragont. Again, turning easterly at three versts, it passes over the Kumnour Kia, then changing due south passes over the head of the ravine, where rise the streams-of Kasaba Yourdi, Beg Bolak, and Alontan flowing towards the Russian side ; those of Mazra Darazi, and Bagh Bolak running to the Caspian, on which are situated the ruined villages of Delavand and Veredons belonging to Russia. Here passes the great route from Arsha to Talish. " The frontier still follows the mountains (which here take a south-east direction) to the burying ground of Derikli Mazra Ali, distant six versts, so that the streams of Akbolak, Achier Gul, Bolak, Kara Khan Gul, Gao Khana GSl, Kuban and Dash Bolak belong to Persia. Salahabinand (on which is the village of Tebbgaz) Ela Gul, Momagon, Ambaran, Tebeyaz Gao Daghi and Kourbulan are subject to Russia. At this point the road leads from Ardebll to Talish : continuing along the same range, passing the ravines and villages of Hamine and Khan Aga belonging to Persia, it reaches a point directly opposite the high rock and ruined fortress of Shindan,* when quitting the great range, the line of demarcation passes immediately over the rock before-mentioned, and follows the branch of the mountains into the bed of the Astara river, which then forms the frontier to the sea. The fort of Astara and all lands on the right bank belonging to Persia, and all on the left to Russia. "This last part of the frontier can hardly be said to be defined, nor was it practicable, on account of the thick jungle and rocky ridge on which Shindan stands, to follow it to its junction with the Astara ravine, which it then follows to the sea. Persia has been a very considerable gainer on this side, having got for a worthless portion of Velkhedye the important and valuable districts of Astara, Chelavand, and Lavundavile. I have preferred retaining the names, distances and bearings as they exist in my own map to making use of materials on which I cannot perfectly rely. " Three versts are equal to two English miles." From Astara the frontier of Persia is formed by the Caspian as far as the Gfirgan river. From this point the frontier is very doubtful, but it is probable the Persian government are entitled to claim all the country to the north, as far as the commencement of the Turkman desert, including Merv. But at present the frontier cannot be said to extend beyond the south foot of the range dividing the valley of the Gtirgan from the Atrak: * The Commissioners having disputed regarding which hranch of the Astara river was mentioned in the treaty as forming the frontier, it was agreed that the lesser range on which stands the rock of Shindan and divides the middle from the northern branch. If the Astara river should constitute the boundary, thus rendering unavailable for either party the strong position of Shindan. 364 PER beyond this the Turkman reigns triumphant; and though even within this his influence is felt, as the various Khans of this frontier clearly recognize Persia, their districts must be included within her territories. To the east of this frontier, the maps make the boundary of Persia to extend to the east of Sharakhs, whereas it runs only as far as Muzdaran, about half way between Mashad and Sharakhs. Prom this point it goes to Pul-i-Khat5n on the Harl Rud, and thence keeps the left bank of that river to the post of Kahsan. Prom this point the frontier of Persia is very vague, and I have no authority to guide me to saying anything less general than from the Harl Rud to the Seistan lake, the 61° of longitude may be considered to repre- sent it approximately. As the boundary between Persia and Afghanistan, and Persia and Bilochistan at this moment form the grounds of an enquiry, it would be premature to attempt to delineate any frontier line between these countries, and it will therefore suffice to say that Persia claims in Seistan at least as far a Jalalabad on the Helmand, and in Bilochistan as far as about longitude 61° 40'. The southern boundary of Persia is formed by the Persian Gulf, but many of the sea-ports and islands pay tribute to the Imam of Maskat. The western boundary of Persia also formed the subject of the labours of a joint Boundary Commission. I have not seen their report, but as it exists, and I hope ere long to get it, I will not attempt to say more regarding it than that the boundary laid down in Johnston's map seems to be pretty correct. Area. — Thus bounded, Persia cannot have a length of less than 1,400 miles, counting from the point where the Khoi and Bayazld road crosses it to near Gwadar on the Makran coast, or a breadth of less than 900 miles from the Makran coast, north to the parallel of the Atrak river. Chesney states Persia to have an area of 395,846 square miles, but I do not make out on what authority. Divisions.— The great divsions of Persia are — 1. Azarbijan. 2. Ghllan. 3. Mazandaran. 4. Astrabad. 5. Khorasan. 6. Yezd. 7. Kirman. 8. Laristan. 9. Fars. 10. Khuzistan 11. Isfahan. 12. Nain. 13. Tehran. 14. Khemseh. 15. Mullayer. 16. Ardelan. 17. Kirmam 18. Liiristan 1 ■ Irak Ajami. General Aspect. — The most striking characteristics of Persia are high barren mountains, divided by desert plains, and in some cases by beautiful valleys and rich pasture lands, both being almost totally devoid of trees. The general aspect of this country is desolate and bare in the extreme ; and though there are indubitably many spots of great loveliness, Persia may generally be considered most unprepossessing in its aspect. Mountains. — It has been said that Persia is a land of mountains, and in coming to the more detailed consideration of her ranges, the first thing to bear in mind is that every mountain and every spur in Persia can be traced without a single break to be connected with the Hindu Kush, consequently with the Himalayas, and perhaps with all the ranges of Central Asia, or indeed of Asia generally. The point of junction of the Persian mountains with the Hindu Kush is not very clear : many have looked for it to the north of 365 PER Herat, but I submit that it is to the south of Herat and Khaf. From this then the range runs west by north, south of Turshiz, north of Tabas, to the neighbourhood of Shahrud. Here it throws out a spur to the north- east and by east, which bounds Khorasan on the north. Though I have no authority for saying so, I think it is not improbable that it may also throw a spur to the south, or perhaps to the south-west. The main range, however, from Shahrud still keeps its direction to the west, and under the name of ElbQrz divides the province of Irak from Mazandaran and Ghilan. North of between Sultania and Abhar, it throws a spur to the west between the Kizl Ozan and Zanjan river, and itself turns south-west, crossing the road between these places and running on through Ardelan, till it is identified with the main ridge of Kurdistan, when it splits into two, one going north- west to Mount Ararat, and dividing Azarbijan from Turkey. Either from Mount Ararat or the main range all the mountains of Azarbijan originate, and as their ramifications are described under the head of Azarbijan, I need not here repeat them. The other branch of the Kurdistan range goes first south-east, and then east to Mount Elvand. From Elvand three great ranges emanate, the first and most northerly I name the Elvand range. This runs east-south-east to Kohrud, a south spur reaching to Isfahan, thence it changes more to the south-east, and crosses the Yezd and Isfahan road at about 65 miles from the latter, thence it runs a short distance to the south of Yezd and Kirman, and then parallel to the road between them to 45 miles east of the latter, where at six miles from Khanikm it crosses the road to Bam. From this point it is not possible, in the present deficient state of our geography of those parts, to trace it farther, but I incline to the belief that it runs on south of Seistan, and is eventually lost in the desert south of the Helmand, being the mountains seen by Christie to his left front in his route from Nfishki to the Helmand. It was probably the north spurs of this range which were crossed by Keith Abbott between Kirman and Khubbes. The second range which has its origin in Mount Elvand rivals the first in length and importance. At its commencement it is called the Bakh- tiari range, and it runs south-east to the sources of the Karun ; the main range then turns a little south-west, but shortly resumes its former direction till nearly north of Kala-Sufed, when it throws a spur south-east, which goes north of Shiraz, and itself turns south to the Kotal-i-Dukhtar, whence it gradually resumes its south-east direction as far as Jehrum, when it turns east and first divides Fars from Laristan, and then runs across Kirman, dividing the Garmsar districts from the colder regions to the north, and crossing the road between Bandar Abbas and Kirman at the Deh Bakri pass, and that between Kirman and Banpur between Giran Beg and Giran Rega. Here it is very low, and probably soon after is lost in the desert. The third range coming from Elvand, or rather from a few miles west of it, runs south, dividing Kirmanshah from Zohab till it reaches the boundary of Turkey, where it splits into two, and under the name of Keblrkoh bounds the plain of the province of Baghdad on the north-east. Plains. — The only plains in Persia are those which are better described under the name of deserts ; for though there are many broad and fertile level spots, they again generally partake more of the nature of a valley than a plain. From this description, however, perhaps the plains of Mogan, in the extreme north-east corner of Azarbijan, of Saltania in Khamseh, of the Chab country in Khuizistan, &c, &c, may be excluded. 366 PER Deserts. — On its north and east sides Persia is nearly entirely surrounded by deserts. On the north is the great desert of Khiva, or as it is called the Kara Kum. This stretches along the whole north border of Khorasan and Afghan Turkistan as far as Baikh. It is more of a waste than a desert, and in spring is covered with grass, and at this period is said to be quite practicable for light troops. It has a breadth in its broadest part, viz., from the Aral south-west to the Atrak river, of about 250 miles, and this gradually lessens as it goes. Eastwards till near Balkh it has a breadth of only a few miles. Its general breadth, however, is from 150 to 180 miles. Its length from the Caspian to the vicinity of Balkh cannot be under 600 miles. The next desert is the great salt desert of Khorasan, which extends from Kum and Kashan to the east for a distance of probably not less than 300 miles. It is not at all clear whether this great desert is not one with that of Seistan. If so, it probably runs to the south of Tabas. I am in- clined to think that the mountains of Khorasan and those of Kirman are divided by some such plain. This would be an interesting point to clear up. The desert of Kirman is the next great desert of Persia. This stretches to the north-east of Kirman, and I think is undoubtedly continuous with that of Seistan and of Makran. It stretches from Khubbes to the lake of Seistan, a distance of perhaps 150 miles, thence along to the south bank of the Helmand, right up to the vicinity of the valley of Peshtn on the Kandahar and Quetta road, then it turns south-west, keeping away from Nushki, Sarawan and Kharan, and then runs south between Banpur and Panjgur to near the sea at Gwadar. To the west of this it keeps north of Jalk and Sib and the continu- ation of the mountains of Kirman till it again intervenes between Khubbes and Seistan. Supposing these boundaries to be correct, it would have a length from near Khubbes to Sarawan of about 400 miles, and a breadth from the Helmand to the parallel of Kohak of 200 miles. The "sand of this desert is of a reddish color, and so light that when taken in the hand the particles are scarcely palpable. It is raised by the wind into longitudinal waves, which present, on the side towards the point from which the wind blows, a gradual slope from the base; but on the other side rise perpendicularly to the height of 10 or 20 feet, and at a distance have the appearance of a new brick wall. Pottinger had great difficulty in urging his camel over these waves, specially when it was necessary to ascend the per- pendicular or leeward side of them. They ascended the sloping side with more ease ; and as soon as they perceived the top of the wave giving way with their weight, they most expertly dropped on their knees, and in that manner descended with the sand, which was so loose that the first camel made a path sufficient for the others to follow. This impediment, how- ever, was but trifling compared to what he suffered from floating or moving particles of sand. The desert seemed at the distance of half a mile to be a flat surface about eight or ten inches above the level of the waves. This cloud or vapour appeared constantly to recede as they ad- vanced, and at times completely enveloped them, filling their eyes, ears and mouths, and causing a most disagreeable sensation. It was productive of great irritation and severe thirst, which was not a little increased by the scorching rays of the sun. The ground was so hot as to blister the feet even through the shoes ; and the natives affirmed that it was the violent heat which occasioned the sand to move through the atmosphere. Mr. Pot- 367 PER tinger indeed remarked that this phenomena was only seen during the heat of the day. The sahrab, or watery appearance, so common in all deserts, and the moving sands were seen at the same time, and appeared to be per- fectly distinct, the one having a luminous, and the other a cloudy appear- ance. The wind in this desert commonly blows from north-west, and during the hot summer months it is often so heated as to destroy anything, either animal or vegetable, with which it comes in contact. The route by which Captain Christie and Mr. Pottinger travelled is therefore deemed impassable from the middle of May to the end of August. This wind is distinguished throughout the east by the term of the " bad-i-samum," or pestilential wind. It has been known to destroy even camels and other hardy animals, and its effects on the human frame are said to be the most dreadful that can possibly be conceived. In some instances it kills instanta- neously, but in others the wretched sufferer lingers for hours or even days in the most excruciating torture. Rivers. — Speaking generally, Persia may be said to be a riverless country, for if we except the Karun, it cannot boast of one single navigable stream, and of other streams which do exist very few are of any magnitude or importance. Its principal rivers are the Karun, the Kerkhah, Kizl Ozan, Zaindarud, Jarahl, and Hindian ; all others are small, and are either consumed in irrigation, lost in the desert, or disappear into other scarcely more important rivers. Lake. — The lakes of Urumia and Neyriz are the only lakes in Persia of any importance, if we except the Seistan Lake, which being more in Afghanistan than Persia, has been described in that country. On its north, however, Persia is washed by the Caspian Sea, by which means the produce of this part can be taken by water from a few marches north of Tehran to London, and by the same route Russia can transport her produce to Persia. Along the south boundary also Persia enjoys the same advantage of a sea board, so that generally speaking, no place in this country is more, as the crow flies, than 300 miles from the sea. Climate. — There is, perhaps, no country in the world which has a greater diversity of climate than Persia. This difference of temperature, however, appears to be more dependent upon elevation and soil than upon distance from the equator. In the southern part of this kingdom, which includes those districts of the provinces of Kirman, Laristan, Fars, and Khuzistan, that lie between the mountains and the shores of the Persian Gulf, the heat in summer is very great, and it is increased by those sandy and barren plains with which this tract abounds, and which present to the eye of the traveller nearly the same prospects as those of Arabia. The hot winds, which are known under the name of " samiim" in Asia and sirocco in Europe, are neither frequent nor attended with danger in this region, which is probably owing to the narrowness of the space between the sea and the mountains. During the two first months of summer, a strong north-westerly wind prevails over the whole of this tract, which at times blows with such violence that it brings with it clouds of a light impalpable sand from the opposite shore of Arabia, a distance of more than two degrees. In the autumn the heats are more oppressive than in summer, but in winter and spring the climate is delightful. It is never very cold, and snow seldom falls on the southern side of that range of mountains by which it is divided from the other parts of Persia. The 368 PER rains in this quarter, which are not heavy, fall in the winter or early in spring-. The prevailing winds are from the north-west and south-east, and rain is almost always accompanied hy the latter, which, though often very violent, hardly ever continues above three or four days at one period. Some parts of the interior of the provinces of Kirman and Laristan are subject to extreme heats, particularly those districts of the latter which border upon the desert of Seistan. The town and district of Shiraz, and the other parts of Fars above the mountains, enjoy a fine climate, and are neither subject to the oppressive heats of the lower and more southern parts of Persia, nor to that severity- of cold which is experienced in the more elevated and northern provinces of that kingdom. The temperature of this part of Fars varies according to the elevation of the different valleys with which it is interspersed, but neither the heat nor the cold is excessive. The soil of the interior part of Fars is in general rich and productive. There are few large streams, but abundance of rivulets ; and while its more mountainous districts afford excellent pasture for the flocks of those tribes by which they are inhabited, the valleys near Shiraz and the other towns of the province produce almost every kind of grain and fruit in the greatest abundance. As we proceed northward into the extensive province of Irak, the climate improves} and Isfahan, once the capital and still the principal city of that kingdom, appears to be placed in the happiest temperature that Persia can boast. Its inhabitants are strangers to that heat which is felt during some of the summer months at Shiraz, yet their winter is hardly more severe. Excepting a few weeks in the year, the sky of this favoured region is un- clouded and serene. The rains are never heavy, and the snow seldom lies long upon the ground. The air is so pure and dry that the brightest polished metal may be exposed to it without being corroded by rust. The regularity of the seasons in this part of Persia appears quite extraordinary to a person accustomed to a more uncertain and variable climate, for they perceptibly change almost to the hour. When spring commences, there is perhaps no spot in the world where nature assumes a more lovely garb than at Isfahan ; the clearness of the streams, the shade of its lofty avenues, the fragrant luxuriance of gardens, and the verdant beauty of wide-spread- ing fields, combine with the finest climate to render it delightful ; and we are almost disposed, when we view this enchanting scene, to admit that the hyperbole is not excessive which describes it as having an intoxicating effect upon the senses. The northern cities of Irak do not enjoy so favorable a climate as Isfa- han. The country about Haraadan is very mountainous, and the winter severe ; while the cities of Kashan and Kum, which are situated on the verge of deserts, are exposed almost to as oppressive heat in summer as the countries on the shores of the Gulf. Tehran, which lies immediately under those ranges of mountains that divide Irak from Mazandaran, is exposed to great vicissitudes of climate, and is not deemed salubrious. In Azarbljan the summer is warm and the winter very severe, and in parts of Kurdistan, though situated more to the southward, so great is the effect of elevation that the winter may be said to commence with the autumn of the surrounding country. 369 2y * PER The northern provinces of Persia, Ghilan and Mazandaran have, like its southern, a cold and warm region. The former is the higher and moun- tainous part, which borders on Irak and Azarbljan ; and the latter, those plains that stretch along the shores of the Caspian. Both these provinces abound in forests and rivers, which may be said to be rare in almost every other part of Persia. Silk is cultivated in Ghilan and in some parts of Mazandaran, but the latter country is most celebrated for its culture of rice, which is of very superior quality, and its producing this grain. in such abundance is a proof that its soil and climate are essentially different from that of the other parts of Persia. The rains in both Mazandaran and Ghilan are frequent and heavy, and many tracts of the lower country are described as very moist and unhealthy. The great province of Khorasan has within itself every variety of climate, but all those districts which border upon the desert that stretches from Irak to Seistan are arid and subject to extreme heats, and in some parts the inhabitants are, during a few weeks in summer, compelled to avoid exposure, lest they should be destroyed by the pestilential winds or buried in the clouds of sand with which they are often accompanied ; but not- withstanding this partial evil, Khorasan may be said to possess a fine and salubrious climate. From what has been stated we may pronounce that, with the exception of the provinces on the shore of the Caspian, the climate of Persia, though very various, has everywhere the same quality of dryness and purity of atmosphere. It has been before mentioned that this kingdom has hardly any great rivers, and does not abound in lesser streams or springs. The consequence is that it has few trees, excepting those which are cultivated. It perhaps owes some of its salubrity to this cause, as it is more free than other regions of Asia from those vapours and exhalations which, though they fructify the soil, are often noxious to animal life; but this want of wood, while it diminishes the general beauty of the country, is felt as a most serious inconvenience by its inhabitants. Speaking generally, however, we may certainly pronounce the temperature of the interior provinces of Persia as delightful and healthy though there are no doubt several parts of that kingdom subject to all the extremes of heat, and others are far from salubrious. Mineralogy. — No regular search ever having been made in Persia for its mineral wealth, our knowledge of this branch of its productions is picked up from the scattered notices of various writers on that country. Naptha is found at a spring situated at the foot of the Bakhtiari mountains between Shustar and Ram Hormaz, and near the village of Dalaki in Fars. Sulphur and saltpetre is found in the mountains north of Tehran and the latter also in the Khalkal district of Azarbljan. There are mines of iron, copper and silver in Azarbljan, Mazandaran and Kirman, and of lead in Yezd and in the Khalkal district of Ajzarbljan and near Shlraz also is a mine of silver. ' Coal of excellent quality and in any quantity is found near Shahrud and near the villages of Hir, north-west of Tehran. The marbles of Maraga and Khorasan are well known and are much sought after. A very good description is also found near Yezd. Nishapur produces turquoise, with which it supplies the whole world. 370 PER Salt is found in several places in the coast of the Persian Gulf, in the Island of Kishm, a few miles north of Ispahan., on the plain round Tabrez, near Kashan, and at Daolatabad near Nishapur. The mineral productions of Persia therefore are : — Tars ... ... ... Sulphur, lead, red and yellow ochre, naptha. Kirman ... ... Lead, sulphur, saltpetre. Irak ... ... ... Lapislazuli, vitriol, coal, salt. Khorasan ... ... Turqueises, alum, salt. Mazandaran .,. ... Copper. Azarbijan ... ... Marble, salt, saltpetre, iron, copper, lead. Zoology. — The animal productions of Persia consist of the lion, jackal, wolf, fox, hare, wild ass, wildsheep, the mountain goat, and deer of various kinds. Jerboas are found in considerable numbers in the plain of DashtistSn in Fars; wild hogs are abundant in Mazandaran ana Ghil an ; antelopes are found in many parts, and are hunted by dogs ; the wild ass is found all over Persia, and is hunted and eaten by the inhabitants who esteem its flesh a great delicacy. Of domestic animals there are the horse, mule, camel, ass, and ox. The first, although neither so swift nor so beautiful as those of Arabia, are larger, more powerful, and, all things considered, better calculated for cavalry. There are several breeds of horses, but the most valuable is that called the Turkman. These are from 14 hands and a half to 16 hands high, have long legs and little bone under the knee, spare carcases and large heads. But what renders the Turkman horses so valuable to the natives is their size and extraordinary powers of supporting fatigue, for they have been known to travel nine hundred miles in 11 successive days. The Arabian blood has also been introduced into this country, and some of the horses that are bred in Dashtistan in point of speed and symmetry emulate the most admired coursers of Nedjid. Their usual food is chopped straw and barley ; the bed is made of dung, which is dried and beat into powder, and regularly every morning exposed to the sun. No people are fonder or take more care of their horses than the Persians. They are clothed with the greatest attention according to the climate and season of the year, and in the warm weather are put into the stable during the day, but taken out at night. The horses here are not so subject to internal disorders as in England, but their heels are invariably contracted from the badness of shoeing. Next in estimation to the horses we may reckon the mules, which, with asses and camels, constitute the only mode of conveyance in Persia. The mules are small but finely proportioned and carry a great weight ; and those that are intended for the saddle are taught a delightful amble, which carries the rider at the rate of five and six miles an hour. They seldom tire, but must be well fed, and require almost twice as much food as a horse. The camels of Khorasan are not inferior to those of Arabia ; both are here in use, but the western parts of Persia are by far too mountainous for this animal. Cows and oxen are principally kept for the supply of the dairy and the purposes of agriculture. Numerous flocks of sheep and goats cover the plains, buffaloes are not common, and the asses are of a very diminutive size. 371 PER Sheep are very abundant in Persia. The wealth of the wandering tribes consists in the number of their flocks, but they give no attention to the improvement of the breed of this useful animal, which affords them food and some of the most essential articles of their raiment. Though dogs be deemed unclean by Mahamadans, the qualities of this faithful animal have overcome every prejudice, and we find them in Persia, as in other countries, admitted to a companionship with man. They are chiefly cherished by the wandering tribes ; they watch their flpcks, guard their tents, and aid them in their field sports. Some of the dogs of this country, which are used in the chase, may be deemed among the most beautiful of their species. Sir Harford Jones' remarks regarding the animals of Persia : — " The breed of man as an animal is far superior in Persia to the breed of beasts. Amongst the former a deformed or weak one is seldom seen; amongst the latter it is rare to see anything very much to be admired ; and of what there is of this sort much is brought from other countries — horses from Arabia and Turkmania, sheep and goats from Arabia and Kurdistan. It must be confessed, however, that on the southern shores of the Persian Gulf, there is a superb breed of asses, by means of which Persia is supplied with a magnificent breed of mules. As to their kine and cattle, they are very indifferent and poor ; but until the bulk of the nation shall value their flesh more than they do at present, I do not apprehend any great improvement is likely to take place in breed. It is curious to reflect on the pains which man takes to improve the breed, and consequently the quality of the flesh of the animal on which he prefers to feed ; this perhaps is one reason why the sheep in Persia are generally so good." Oxen are sometimes used in Azarbijan as beasts of burden. The same sorts of wild and tame fowl are common in Persia as in Europe, with the exception of the turkey, whose nature would not seem to be con- genial to this climate. The people in the interior are not much annoyed by insects, which are more numerous in the damp and marshy provinces which skirt the Caspian Sea, the banks of the Tigris, and the shores of the Persian Gulf. Locusts not unfrequently make their appearance in the southern parts, where snakes and scorpions are also common. The snakes are not so venomous as most of those in India, nor the bite of the scorpion so deadly as travellers have stated it to be. The Persians frequently hunt the bustard, which they call the ahubareh. They catch it from its being unable to make long flights, and tiring it by keeping constantly on the wing by riding after it. A kind of black partridge, called by the Persians slah slna, is found all over the country, and its flesh is considered good eating. The Persians catch quail by placing two sticks on their girdle and on them an outer coat or pair of trousers, so that these at a distance look like the horns of an animal. They then with a hand-net prowl about the fields, and the quail, seeing a form more like a beast than a man, permits it to approach so near as to allow the hunter to throw his net over it. Persia being almost destitute of trees, much of the fuel used in that country is made from the dung of various animals, but especially the cow. Salmon, sturgeon, carp, herring and various other fish are found in great abundance in the Caspian. 372 PER Among the insect life of Persia must not be forgotten the celebrated shab-gaz of Miana, Todervar and other places. This insect, the scientific name of which is Argas Persicus, is fully described in Baron "Walckenser's Histoire Naturelle des Insectes. Its bite is very poisonous, throwing the victim into a fever, from the effects of which he does not generally recover for several days. Bees are kept for the sake of their honey all over the country, and pro- duce most excellent honey. The following is a recapitulation of the animal produce in the various provinces of Persia : — Pars ... ... Horses, steep, mules, asses. Kirman ... ... Sheep, asses, camels, wool, goats. Tezd ... ... Sheep, asses, camels. Ispahan ... ... Horses, mules, asses. Khemseh ... ... Sheep, horses. Khorasan ... ... Camels, horses, sheep. Mazandaran ... ... Cattle, sheep, ponies, Ghilan ... ... Cattle, ponies, fish, silk-worms. Azarhvjan ... ... Horses, camels, sheep skins. Kirmanskah ... ... Horses, sheep, mules, asses. Khuzistan ... ... Camels, sheep, horses. Population. — The number of the population of Persia is difficult to estimate. A census has never been taken, and at best any attempt to calculate the numbers must be made from the scattered reports of travellers. I think it is best, therefore, at present not to attempt any estimate, but to refer my readers for details of the population to the various articles in the different cities and tribes of the country. The Persians themselves have stated the population to be 200,000,000, and Sir John Charden 40,000,000, both of which estimates are of course ludicrously exaggerated ; for Sir John Malcolm reduces it to about 6,000,000. " There are, " he says," no doubt many and powerful checks upon population in Persia; the unsettled state of the government, its oppression, the continual civil and foreign wars, and above all others the debauchery and vice of a great proportion of the inhabitants, and the consequent neglect of their offspring. But on the other hand, when we consider the salubrity of the climate, the cheapness of provisions, the rare occurrence of famine, the bloodless character of their civil wars, their obligation to marry, and the comparative small number of prostitutes, we may conclude that the population of this country has not diminished so much within the last century as is generally supposed. Great changes have taken place in the condition of cities, and many numerous tribes have removed from their former spots of residence ; but in most cases they have only been transplanted to other parts of the kingdom. " In Persia, as in other parts of Asia, male offspring are desired beyond all other blessings, even by the lowest ranks ; but female children, though not equally esteemed, cannot be deemed a burden upon their parents in a country where celibacy is unknown, and where the poorest are seldom in want of food. It is also to be remarked that in all Mahamadan countries charity is so strictly enjoined as a religious duty that a considerable proportion of, the superfluous means of the rich is always distributed among 373 PER the poor, and this must have its effect in encouraging population; for there is no fact more certain than that which will always keep pace with the means of subsistence. The circumstance of the Persians being allowed to emigrate at pleasure to adjacent countries, where many of them find profitable employment, is also calculated to add, in a slight degree, to their numbers, as it removes one check to their increase. " The population of Persia, though perhaps, diminished in a very consider- abledegree after the invasion of the Afghans, has no doubt increased rapidly since. But this observation only applies to the Mahamadan inhabitants of that country. The despised Jews are much decreased in numbers, and the persecuted Guebers, whose residence is confined to a quarter of the city of Yezd, are probably over-estimated when computed at 4,000 families. The colony of Armenians settled in a suburb of Ispahan, which formerly amounted to 2,500 families, some of whom were of great opulence, do not now amount to BOO, none of whom are wealthy, and this race has diminish- ed in a still greater proportion in all other parts of the empire. The whole of the Armenians, in Persia are calculated, in an estimate made of their number by order of the Bishop of Julfa, to amount to 12,383 souls, which is said to be not more than a sixth of their number before the Afghan invasion.'" Manners aud Customs. — " In an attempt, " says ' Malcolm," to describe the manners and usages of a nation, we must commence with those exalted ranks whose example has always so powerful an influence upon the other branches of the community. The customs and ceremonies of the court of Persia have within the last three centuries undergone no substantial change. The circumstance of the reigning family being hereditary chiefs of a warlike tribe, and still preserving many of the usages of that condition, constitutes almost the only essential difference we find between their personal habits and the customs of their court and those of the Suffavian kings, whose manners and usages have been minutely described by the numerous European travellers who visited Persia when they occupied the throne of that king- dom. ' It is stated that, from the period of Shah Abbas the Great, the princes of the blood were immured in the harem, where their education was entrusted to women and eunuchs, and until the death of the king his destined succes- sor was unknown. The son of the lowest slave in the harem was deemed at that period equally eligible to succeed to the throne as the offspring of the proudest princess. The usage of the families of Tartary has always been different. Great respect has invariably been paid by them to the birth of the mother. The cause of this is obvious : intermarriages are deemed one of the principal means of improving the friendship and terminating the feuds between the tribes of that nation, and the fulfilment of this object has required that the descendants of a high-born mother, who was a legitimate wife, should have prior claims to those of a common con- cubine, otherwise the relations which were established by those ties must have proved sources of discord instead of union. The Kajars, who are proud of their Tartar or, as they term it, Turkish origin, maintain in this particular the usage of their ancestors. "According to the modern usage of Persia the princes of the blood are not immured within the walls of the harem beyond that period in which Ifoey require female attendance and maternal care. They early learn the 374 PER forms of their religion, and at three or four years of age can repeat a few short prayers, and are perfect in their genuflections and mode of holding their hands when occupied in devotion. They are also most carefully instructed in all that belongs to external manner. They are taught how to make their obeisance to a superior, how to behave to a person of equal rank or an inferior, as also the manner in which they are to stand in the presence of their father and monarch, and the way in which they are to seat themselves, if desired, and how to retire. These forms are deemed of great consequence at a court where everything is regulated by cere- mony, and it is not unusual to see a child of five years of age as perfect in his manners and as grave in his deportment in a public assembly as the oldest person present. When the young prince is between seven and eight years of age, he begins to read Arabic and Persian. As soon as he understands the alphabet of the former language, he peruses the Koran, after which he learns the essential tenets of his religion. His mind is early imbued with the importance of those doctrines which distinguish the Shiah faith from that of the Suni, and one of his first lessons teaches him to regard the latter with abhorrence. "When the royal pupil is considered to be well grounded in religion, Persian books are put into his hands ; and the works of Sadl, while they give him an early taste for fables and poetry, are expected to inspire his young mind with a desire of virtuous fame. He is also put through a superficial course of grammar, syntax, logic, syllogisms, sacred law and philosophy; but his progress in those higher branches of a Persian education depends chiefly upon his own disposition. He seldom learns more than to write and read with ease and fluency, unless inclined to study, which is not unfrequently the case ; for superior attainments as a scholar always add to his reputation. The greatest care is invariably taken to instruct Persian princes in all their bodily exercises. They are trained, while yet children, to the use of arms, and ride, when six or seven years of age, with grace and boldness. They are often betrothed when very young, and sometimes married long before they attain the age of puberty. After that period the number of their wives and females depends upon the means which they have of supporting them. When a prince is raised to the throne, his time is divided between his public duties, the pleasures of the harem, and his amusements : the period he bestows on each of these is regulated by his peculiar inclinations, his age, and his habits. No general description, therefore, can exactly ex- plain usages which are liable to continual changes ; but a short sketch of the manner in which the reigning monarch passes his time will convey a full idea of those habits which are deemed suited to his elevated condition. " An attention to religious duties, which no king of Persia can openly neg- lect, requires him to rise early. As he sleeps in the interior apartments, to which no male approaches, his attendants are either females or eunuchs. After he is dressed with their aid, he sits from one to two hours in the hall of the harem, where his levees are conducted with the same ceremony as in his outer apartments. Female officers arrange the crowd of his wives and slaves with the strictest attention to the order of precedency. After hearing the reports of those entrusted with the internal government of the harem and consulting with his principal wives, who are generally seated, the monarch leaves the interior apartments. He is met the moment he comes out by officers in waiting, and proceeds to one of his private halls, where 375 PER he is immediately joined by some of his principal favorites, with whom he enters into familiar conversation, and all the young princes of the blood attend this morning levee to pay their respects. After this is over, his majesty calls for breakfast. The preparation of all the royal meals is superintended by the chief steward of the household. The viands are put into dishes of fine china with silver covers, and placed in a close tray, which is locked and sealed by the steward. This tray, after being covered by a rich shawl, is carried to the king, in whose presence the steward breaks his own seal and places the different dishes before him. Some of the infant princes are generally present, and are indulged with a participation in this repast. The chief physician is invariably in attendance at every meal. His presence is deemed necessary, the Persian courtiers observe, that he may prescribe an instant remedy, if anything he eats should disagree with the monarch; but this precaution, no doubt, originates in that suspicion which continually haunts the minds of those who exercise despotic power. " When the king has performed his ordinary public duties, he usually retires to the harem, where sometimes he indulges in a short repose. His majesty always makes his appearance in the outer apartments some time before sunset, and either again attends to public business, or takes a ride on horseback. His dinner is brought between eight or nine, and the same precautions and ceremonies are used as at breakfast. He eats like his subjects, seated upon a carpet, and the dishes are placed on a rich em- broidered cloth that is spread for the occasion. It was the usage of some of the former kings of Persia to indulge openly in drinking wine, but none of the reigning family have yet outraged the religious feeling of their subjects by so flagrant a violation of the laws of Mahamad. Bowls filled with sherbet, made of species of fruit, furnish the bever- age of the royal meals, and there are few nations where more pains is bestowed to gratify the palate with the most delicious viands. After dinner is over the king retires to the interior apartments, where it is said that he is often amused till a late hour by the singers and dancers of his harem. It is, however, impossible to speak of his occupations from the moment he passes the threshold of his inner palace. He is there surrounded by a scene calculated, beyond all others, to debase and degrade the human character. He only sees emasculated guards and their fair prisoners. He hears nothing but the language of submission or of complaint. Love cannot exist between beings so unequal as the monarch and his slave, and vanity must have overcome reason before the fulsome adulation of pretended fondness can be mistaken for the spontaneous effusions of real attachment. The harems of the monarchs of Persia are governed by the strictest discipline, and that must be necessary to preserve the peace of a community where all the arrogance of power, the pride of birth, the ties of kindred, the intrigues of art, and the pretensions of beauty are in constant collision. " The usual routine of the life of a king of Persia is often interrupted by the urgency of public affairs and sometimes by pursuits of amusement. The reigning family have hitherto disdained those enervating luxurious habits which led the last monarchs of the Suffavian dynasty to confine themselves to their harems. They not only, as has been stated, attend personally to public affairs, but continually practise manly exercises, 376 PER and pursue field sports with all the ardour of a race of chiefs who cherish the habits of their Tartar ancestors. " The monarch of Persia has always an historiographer and a chief poet — the one writes the annals of his reign, and the other, who has a high rank at court, composes odes in his praise, and celebrates with grateful ardour the munificence of his royal patron. A giant and a dwarf were at one period part of the royal establishment, and that is never without a jester who enjoys a very extraordinary latitude of speech, and assumes, both in his dress and manner, the habit and appearance of folly. It is usual to laugh at the witticisms of those jesters, even when they are most severe, and the sovereign himself professes to respect their privilege. Karim Khan Zand, the language of which tribe is called, from its harshness, ' the bar- barous dialect/ was one day sitting in public, and commanded his jester to go and bring him word what a dog, which was barking very loud, wanted. The courtiers smiled at this sally of the monarch. The jester -went as desired, and after appearing to listen for some time with profound attention, he returned and said with a grave air, — 'Your majesty must send one of the chief officers of your own family to report what that gentleman says. He speaks no language except " the barbarous dialect," with which they are familiar, but of which I do not understand one word.' The good-humored monarch, we are told, laughed most heartily at this ridicule of the rude dialect of his tribe, and gave the wit a present as the reward of his retort. This anecdote, to which many similar might be added, will show that there is little difference between the office of jester at the modern court of Persia and .that which some centuries ago existed at every court in Europe. A resemblance of trifling forms even merits attention, as it leads to conclusions on the progress of knowledge and the condition of society, and we may, perhaps, judge as correctly from the character of their amusements as from their more serious occupations of the degree of civilisation that a people have attained. " In the court of Persia there is always a person who bears the name of 'story-teller to his majesty/ and the duties of this office require a man of no mean acquirements. The Persians, though passionately fond of public exhibitions, have none that merit the name of theatrical enter- tainments ; but though strangers to the regular drama, the frame of their stories are often dramatic, and those whose occupation is to tell them sometimes display so extraordinary a skill and such varied powers that we can hardly believe, while we look upon their altered countenances and listen to their changed tones, that it is the same person who at one moment relates in his natural voice a plain narrative, then speaks in the hoarse and angry tone of offended authority, and next subdues the passions he has excited by the softest sounds of feminine tenderness. But the art of relating stories is, in Persia, attended both with profit and reputation. Great numbers attempt it, but few succeed. It requires considerable talent and great study. None can arrive at eminence in this line except men of cultivated taste and reten- tive memory ; they must not only be acquainted with the best ancient and modern stories, but be able to vary them by the relation of new incidents which they have heard or invented ; they must also recollect the finest passages of the most popular poets that they may aid the impression of their narrative by appropriate quotations. The person whose peculiar office it is to amuse his majesty with these stories is always in attendance. It is 377 2z PER equally his duty to beguile the fatigue of a long march, or to soothe the mind when it has been disturbed by the toils of public affairs, aDd his tales are artfully suited to the disposition of the monarch and the humour he is in at the moment. Sometimes he recites a fable of the genii ; at others he speaks of the warlike deeds of the former sovereigns of Persia, or recounts the love of some wandering prince. A story of more coarse materials is often framed, and the ear of the king is entertained with a narrative of low and obscene adventures. " There is no court where a more rigid attention is paid to ceremony than at that of Persia. The looks, the words, the motion of the body, are all regulated by the most strict observance of form. When the king is seated in public, his sons, ministers and courtiers stand erect with their hands crossed, and in the exact place of their rank. They watch the looks of the sovereign, and a glance is a mandate. If he speaks to them, you hear a voice reply and see their lips move, but not a motion nor gesture betrays that there is animation in any other part of their frame. The monarch in speaking often uses the third person, commencing his observation with — ' The king is pleased/ or ' The king commands.' His ministers in addressing him, usually style him, ' the object of the world's regards.' They are as particular in their forms of speech as they are in other cere- monies, and superiority and inferiority of ranks in all their shades are implied by the terms used in the most common expressions. " On extraordinary occasions nothing can exceed the splendour of the Persian court. It presents a scene of the greatest magnificence regulated by the most disciplined order. There is no part of the government to which so much attention is paid as the strict maintenance of those forms and ceremonies which are deemed essential to the power and glory of the monarch, and the high officers to whom this duty is allotted are armed with the fullest authority, and are always attended by a number of inferiors who carry their commands into prompt execution. " As there are no wheeled carriages in Persia, the monarch always rides, unless he be prevented by indisposition, and then, if forced to move, he is carried in a litter that is suspended between two mules. The tents and portable pavilions of the king of Persia are very magnificent. They are surrounded with a high tent wall, which encloses both the outer and inner apartments. The same forms and the same usages are observed when he is in the field and when at his capital, but it is to be supposed that on active service his female train must be greatly reduced. The severe discipline of Nadar Shah prohibited the chiefs of his army from encumber- ing its march with their numerous females, and he gave himself an example of moderation that has been more praised than imitated. " The dress of the Suffavian kings was as splendid as that of the present dynasty, but the costume is much changed. It is now universally the fashion in Persia to wear the beard long, and the head is covered with a cap instead of a turban. The upper part of their garments is made to fit the body very close, but the lower is invariably loose. " There is no part of the establishment of a monarch of Persia to which more attention is paid than his horses. These are placed under the charge of an officer of rank, who is styled Mir- Akhor, or ' The Lord of the Stable/ The finest colts from every part of his kingdom are sent to the king, and from these he selects what are deemed the best for his own riding. The 378 PER charger on which he is mounted is richly caparisoned, and a number of others, with gold embossed saddles and bits, are led before him and form when he is travelling the most magnificent part of his state. It has been before mentioned that the stable of the king is deemed one of the most sacred of all sanctuaries. " The kings of Persia have always been very observant of the forms of religion. They say their prayers at the appointed hours, and as it is the hahit of Mahamadans to perform this sacred duty in an open and public manner, its neglect would produce observation, and no impression could tend more to weaken their authority than a belief that they were irreligious. They sometimes attend worship in the principal mosque of the capital, and, like their subjects, pay their devotions, whenever they have an oppor- tunity, at the sepulchres of those sainted persons who are buried within the limits of their dominions. As Shlas they profess great veneration for the memory of All and his sons, but not being able to visit their tombs, which are within the Turkish territories, they content themselves with sending rich presents to ornament these shrines. It is also an object of ambition to be buried at these sacred places. The body of Aga Mahamad Khan, the late king of Persia, was sent to Karbela, that it might be interred near the sacred precincts of the dome which canopies the remains of the sainted Imams, Hasen and Hasun. " Jd-i-naoroz. — It has been before stated that the Id-I-naoroz, or ' the feast of the vernal equinox/ is to this day observed with as much joy and festivity as it was by the ancient inhabitants of Persia. This single institution of former days has triumphed over that intolerant bigotry which destroyed the religion on which it was grounded, and the Mahamadans of Persia have chosen rather to be upbraided with the impious observance of what their enemies term an usage of infidels than abolish a feast which was so che- rished by their ancestors. They have, however, discovered another reason for celebrating this day : it is the anniversary of the elevation of their favorite All to the high dignity of the caliphate. There are many fabulous accounts regarding the origin of the feast of naoroz. The Guebers, or worshippers of fire, who were the former inhabitants of Persia, computed by the solar and not by the lunar system ; their year was divided into twelve months, and every day of the month, as well as the month itself, had a name taken from those which they give to the angels. It was a custom of the ancient kings of Persia, we are told, to dress in a particular robe each day. Scarlet, richly embroidered or rather wove with gold, was the appointed dress for the day Hormuzd, which was the naoroz, or the day of the vernal equinox. Many reasons are stated to show why the naoroz is kept as a festival. God, one another says, on that day began the creation, and ordered the different planets to move in their various orbits ; another writer affirms that Jamshid built the palace of Persepolis and entered it on this day, which he ordered in future to be kept as a joyous feast. These and many other equally fabulous accounts are given of the origin of this festival ; but the fact is, it is the opening of the spring — the day on which winter is over, and the season of gladness com- mences. It is the custom of the king of Persia to march out of his capital on the naoroz, attended by his ministers, nobles, and as many of his army as can be assembled. The ceremonies of the day commence with a review, and then the tribute and presents of all the rulers and governors of the 379 PER different provinces of the kingdom are laid at the foot of the throne, which is placed in a magnificent tent that is pitched for the purpose in an open plain. The king remains in camp several days, which are passed in joy and festivity. Horse-races are among the amusements at this period, and the monarch, whose favorite horses generally win, gives presents to the fortunate riders ; he also confers dresses of honor on all the chief nobles and officers of his government, who, imitating his example, give similar marks of their regard to their servants and dependants. This feast is kept with equal demonstrations of joy over every part of the kingdom. It con- tinues nearly a week, but the first day is the most important. On it all ranks appear attired in their newest apparel ; they send presents of sweet- meats to each other, and every man kisses his friend on the auspicious morning of the naoroz. " The Persian kings have always attached great importance to the royal privilege of having a band of musicians, and of displaying at their festivals, and when encamped with their army, particular banners. One of the standards of one of the ancient monarchs of this king- dom was the apron of Kawah, the celebrated blacksmith who rebelled against Zohak and placed the virtuous Peridtin upon the throne. Subse- quent to the introduction of the religion of Mahamad, a variety of colors or flags have been adopted, which have in general been orna- mented with symbols allusive to the deeds of that prophet or his descendants. Among these a representation of the zulfakar, or two- edged sword of All has been the most common; but, notwithstanding the attachment of the Persians to this sacred banner, the sovereigns of that kingdom have for many centuries preserved, as the peculiar arms of their country, the sign or figure of Sol in the constellation Leo ; and this device, which exhibits a lion couchant and the sun rising at his back, has not only been sculptured upon their palaces and embroidered upon their banners, but has been converted into an order, which, in the form of gold and silver medals, has been given to those who have dis- tinguished themselves against the enemies of -their country. " The nature of absolute power requires that it should be supported by a continual revival of the impression of its high and almost sacred character. Many of the usages of Persia are calculated to produce this object. Every- thing connected with the royal name or authority is treated with a respect that is increased by the form which attends it. If the king sends an honorary dress, the person for whom it is intended must proceed several miles to meet it and clothe himself in his robes of favor with every mark of gratitude and submission. If a firman, or mandate, is written by the monarch to one of the officers of government, it also is met at a, distance by the person to whom it is addressed, who, after raising it to his head, gives it to his secretary to read, and all stand in respectful silence till the perusal is finished. If a minister has occasion to mention the king, it is not unusual, after inserting all his titles, to leave a blank and to write the royal name at the top of the letter, lest it should be degraded by having even a word above it. Diplomatic Forms. — " The forms observed in the intercourse of a foreign minister at the court of Persia, with the viceroys of provinces and governors of cities before he reaches the capital, are deemed most important. The manner of meeting him before he enters a town, and 880 PER the mode of his reception at the different houses that he visits, are subjects of the most serious discussion and minute arrangement. The rank and number of persons sent to welcome him, the distance they go, and the period at which they dismount, are all of importance, as they mark the exact degree of respect and consideration in which he is held ; and at his first interviews with princes of the blood or nobles of high rank, the inclination of the head, the rising from the seat, the advancing to the edge of the carpet, to the door, or even beyond it, and the place where he is to be seated, are considered as forms of the utmost consequence, and are, therefore, always settled by previous agreement. Ceremonies of this kind have everywhere some importance, but they are most attended to by nations who, like Persia, have no correct knowledge of the character and condition of distant countries, and whose impressions are chiefly formed from the appearance and conduct of those by whom they are represented. If an ambassador assumes great state, the nation he represents is considered to be wealthy and powerful ; if he exacts attention and resents the slightest neglect, his monarch is believed to be lofty and independent, and worthy of that friendship which he disdains to court by any sacrifice of dignity or of honor ; while a contrray proceeding on the part of a public representative is certain to lead to opposite conclusions. It is not unusual to hear a Persian nobleman or minister pass an eulogium on the extraordinary knowledge, firmness, and spirit of an ambassador of his own country, or of a foreign state j and when you expect to be told of some remarkable negotiation or treaty that he concluded, you are informed that his great knowledge was displayed in not being over-reached in some point of form, and that his firmness has withstood every effort to make him con- tented with one shade less of attention than he thought his due. The conduct of individuals on these occasions is deemed connected, not only with their own fame, but that of their country, and the best Persian historians have recorded with honor the names of the ambassadors who have been most alive to what their station demanded on these essential points of etiquette. "We may complain of all this and deem it at variance with sound reason, which considers substance more than form, and is better pleased with manly simplicity than vain pomp and display ; but it would be as rational to expect that the Persians should understand, on first hearing it, the beauties of our language, as that they should ap- preciate, at the first stages of our intercourse with them, the superior value of our customs. Besides, in a community where everything is personal, high rank must, to support itself, always assume an imposing attitude. The natives of the east term the gorgeous magnificence which surrounds their kings and chief rulers ■ ' the clothing of the state.' ' You may speak to the ears of other,' was the reply of a very sensible Persian to a European gentleman who asked him some question upon this subject, ' but if you desire to be understood by my countrymen, you must address their eyes.' Nobility. — " The princes, nobles, ministers and high public officers of Persia, imitate the king in many of their usages. All the respect they pay to him they exact from their inferiors ; each of them in his rank has what may be termed a petty court, the forms of which are regulated in nearly the same man- ner and by officers bearing the same names as those who attend the mon- arch. Every chief or officer of elevated station in Persia has his harem, 381 PER his secretaries, his officers of ceremonies, his master of horse, and some- times his poet and his jester ; and in his house all matters of ceremony are regulated with as strict an attention to punctilio as at the palace of the sovereign. This class of men, sensible of the precarious nature of their condition, appear alike desirous of obtaining money and of spending it. They seem eager to crowd into their hour of good fortune all the enjoyment they can. They lavish their wealth in a manner not dissimilar to those of the same rank in other countries : women, horses, rich arms and dress are the principal objects of their desire. Their splendid apartments are ornamented with rich carpets and are generally so situated as to be perfumed by flower- gardens and refreshed by fountains. One of their pleasures is to sit in these apartments to enjoy their coffee and tobacco and feast their friends. It is the habit with the ministers of the Persian court to breakfast and dine almost every day in a large party. Their meals are always abundant, and sometimes sumptuous, and it is not unusual to invite persons of the most unequal condition to partake of them. " The higher ranks among the inhabitants of Persia are in general educated in exactly the same manner as the princes of the blood, and they are most carefully instructed in all that belongs to exterior manner and deportment. Nothing can exceed their politeness, and in their social hours, when for- mality is banished, their conversation is delightful. It is enlivened by anecdotes, and their narratives and observations are improved by quotations of beautiful passages from their best poets, with whose works almost every Persian who possesses any intelligence is acquainted. Chiefs of Tribes. — " The chiefs of military tribes may be termed the heredi- tary nobility of Persia. The monarch as has been stated, may, by his influence or direct power, alter the succession and place an uncle in the situation of a nephew, and sometimes put a younger brother in the condition of an elder ; but the leader of the tribe must be of the family of their chiefs. The title of Khan, or lord, is conferred upon such persons as a matter of course. When a son is born to a noble of high rank, he is often honored with this title when his birth is announced at court. The younger sons or nephews of a chief seldom receive it till they are enrolled in the king's guards, or have perform- ed some service. This class of men are most tenacious of their descent, and the succession is regulated by attention to the rank and birth of the mother. The son of the Khan of a military tribe by a concubine is never placed on a footing with his legitimate offspring; an attempt made by parental fondness to do so would be resented by the relations of his legitimate wives, and would outrage the feelings of his tribe. The manners of this class, even when softened by long residents at court, always retain a good deal of haughtiness. They are (with some remarkable exceptions) not so polished and well educated as the civil officers of the court, and much of their time is devoted to material exercises and field sports. Mirzas. — " The ministers of state in Persia and the secretaries of the various departments of government generally bear the name of Mirza. This term, which is a contraction of two words, signifies the son of an amir, or lord, but at present it does not, when prefixed to a name, denote high birth. It may be translated civilian, as it implies complete civil habits : all who assume it are understood to have been well brought up and to devote themselves to those duties that require education. They should be able to read and write well, to keep accounts, and be thoroughly versed in all the 382 PER rules and forms of epistolary correspondence, which are considered by men of rank in Persia to be as essential as the ceremonies that regulate their personal intercourse. Mirzas are in general citizens, though sometimes they belong to warlike tribes. The fact is that every person who has received the slightest education, and who prefers for any reason civil occupation to military, becomes a mirza and is a candidate for the employments usually given to persons of this description. These employments are very numer- ous, for every officer in the army and every magistrate of a village has his mirza. This class, who may be said to fill the highest and the lowest offices in the government, are usually distinguished by wearing a kalam - dan (or small case which contains pens and ink) in their girdle, and they seldom, however wealthy, dress with equal splendour, or assume the same state and equipage as the chiefs of tribes. Their manners are, from their occupation, mild and polite, and we meet with some of them who are highly polished and accomplished. The mirzas of Persia are generally speaking careful not to offend the rude arrogance of the tribes of that country by an adoption of their habits. It is unusual for them to follow the sports of the field, or to practise martial exercises, and they hardly ever pretend to military skill, but their modesty does not prevent their being treated with slight, if not contempt, by haughty nobles to whom their relation appears not dissimilar to that in which the clerks of ancient Europe stood to the knights and barons under the feudal system. To relieve them from this degradation the monarch often raises them to the dignity of khan, but they are looked upon as a mere court nobility, and the lowest chieftain of a clan considers himself superior in real rank to the most favored mirza. Priesthood. — " The priesthood of Persia have few distinct usages. Their occupation enjoins plainness of dress and forbids the vanity and display to which other persons in this country are so much attached. They are almost all Syads, an appellation which marks their claim to a descent from the prophet of Arabia. The lower ranks of this class are seldom so much entitled to respect as the higher, and the order of priesthood in Persia is degraded by a crowd of persons who are, or pretend to be, Syads, and who assume the name of haji (a term which denotes ' a pilgrim to Mecca'), as also that of mullam, or ' iearned man/ and beg, or rather demand alms, on the ground of their holy character. These persons, who are remarkable for their low cunning and impudence, may be said to live upon the charity of the other classes of the community, bywhom they are in general feared and despised. In every tale in which roguery is described, we meet with the name of a Mula, Syad, or Haji. Though many of the priesthood are respected on account of their personal merit, they do not as a body enjoy that consideration which they possess in some other Mahamadan nations ; but the respect which is denied to the order as a body is granted to individuals. The principal mushtaheds, or ' high priests of Persia/ are held in great estimation. The most powerful, as well as the weakest of the monarchs of that country, have equally sought to' conciliate their good opinion. We read in the history of Abbas the Great that a person complained to Mula Ahmad, the mushtahed of Ardebll, that the king has taken his sister by force into his harem. The holy man immediately gave him a note to the following effect : — ' Brother Abbas, restore to the bearer his sister/ The king commanded the woman to be instantly given up, and showing the note he had received to his courtiers, said aloud — ' Let this be put into 383 PER my shroud, for, on the day of judgment, having been called brother by Mula Ahmad, will avail me more than all the actions of my life.' The most cruel of the successors of Abbas were only merciful at the solicitation of the chief priests of their kingdom. Aga Mahamad Khan allowed them to approach him when no others dared to come near, and they sometimes pleaded with success for those whom he had doomed to destruction. " There are a number of persons in Persia who pursue their studies till they are entitled to the name of Mula and to all the honors of a Persian college, without classing themselves with the priesthood. These follow various occupations : some devote themselves wholly to study, and to the most eminent of those who follow literary pursuits a very high rank in society is assigned. An author who has acquired any fame as an histo- rian, an astronomer, or a poet, is respected by ail ranks, and has a place of distinction given him in every company in which he mixes. Every prince and noble in Persia desires to be considered a patron of genius, and this feeling secures to men of learning a very fair share in the enjoyments of the community among which they live. They are not only esteemed on account of their real or supposed talents as authors, but as agreeable com- panions. Their reading furnishes them with anecdotes which amuse and instruct, and some of them are alike remarkable for the excellence of their composition and the sprightliness of their conversation. Even the common pretenders among this class, who are very numerous, are in general men of good manners and ready wit. " A very slight knowledge of astronomy is sufficient to allow a Persian student to profess the occult science of judicial astrology. If a person can take an altitude with an astrolabe, knows the names of the planets and their different mansions, and of a few technical phrases, and understands the as- trological almanacks that are annually published, he deems himself entitled to offer his services to all who wish to consult him, and that includes every person in Persia who has the means to reward his skill. Nothing is done by a man of any consequence or property without reference to the stars. If acy measure is to be adopted, if a voyage or journey is to be commenced, if a new dress is to be put on, the lucky or unlucky moment must be dis- covered, and the almanack and astrologer are consulted. A person wishing to commence a journey will not allow a fortunate day to escape, even though he is not ready to set out. He leaves his own house at the propitious moment, and remains, till he can actually proceed, in some in- commodious lodging in its vicinity, satisfied that he has, by quitting his home, secured all the benefit which the influence of good stars can afford him. " The poets of Persia are still greater flatterers than the astrologers, but their occupation, for it may be termed one, is less profitable. A few fortunate votaries of the muses enjoy the smiles of fortune, but the great majority of poets in Persia, as in other countries, are poor, and from their numbers it is impossible it should be otherwise. Every person who has received a moderate education may, if he prefers a life of idleness to one of industry, assume the name of a poet, and the merest rhymer receives some additional respect from being called by that honored appellation. While some favored poets of Persia are chanting the wonderful deeds of the king or of the principal chiefs, or composing dewans, or 'collections of odes/ on the mystical subject of divine love, others are contented with writing panegyrics on the virtues, 384 PER wisdom, bravery and discernment of all those who bestow their bounty upon them, or allow them to partake of the good things of their table. They also make epigrams to amuse their patrons ; and are alike ready to recite their own verses, or to show their knowledge by quoting the finest passages of tbe poetry of their country. The facility with which a Persian can obtain a certain degree of education at the colleges in the principal cities of the empire, and that indulgence to which the usages of these seminaries invite, produces a swarm of students who pass their use- less lives in indolence and poverty. Ispahan, in particular, abounds with these literary mendicants, and it is chiefly from the scholars educated at its colleges and those at Shiraz that the kingdom is inundated with vagrant poets, who lie in wait not only for the high officers and wealthy men of their native country, but for all strangers whose rank or appearance afford them the slightest prospect of a return for their venal lays. A pro- fessed ignorance of their language, or the expression of dislike for their productions, is no defence against their craving importunity and uncon- querable assurance. " The art of printing is unknown in Persia, and beautiful writing, there- fore, is considered a high accomplishment. It is carefully taught in the schools, and those who excel in it are almost classed with literary men. They are employed to copy books, and some have attained to such eminence in this art, that a few lines written by one of these celebrated pen-men are often sold for a considerable sum. " The merchants of Persia are all taught to read and write, and some of them are men of learning. Their better acquaintance with foreign countries, while it renders them free from prejudice, adds greatly to their knowledge ; and their manners, though not so highly polished as those of the principal nobility and courtiers, are in general equal, if not superior, to the other classes of the community in which they live. Though the society of merchants of information and education is courted by the first nobles and the highest officers of the Persian government, the former, in general, endeavour to avoid any political connections, and the observance of this rule is recommended by the almost invariable ruin of all those who are deluded to forsake the path of profit to pursue that of ambition. " It is a peculiar usage of the principal merchants in Persia to carry on all their mercantile correspondence in cipher, and every person has a different one. The causes for this extraordinary precaution are obvious. In a country where there are no regular posts, they are under the necessity of trust- ing their letters to couriers, whom a small sum would bribe to betray their secrets to commercial rivals, and it is of great consequence to their interests that they should have the first intelligence of political changes, respecting which their correspondent would fear to write in an open manner. In Persia the authenticity of a merchant's letter, as well as his bills, depends entirely upon the seal. It is not usual to sign either, and they are not often written in the hand of the person by whom they are sent. It is the seal, therefore, which is of importance ; it has always engraven upon it the name and title, if he has one, of the person to whom it belongs, and the date at which it was cut. The occupation of a seal-cutter is one of much trust and some danger. He keeps a register of every seal he makes, and if one is stolen or lost by the party to whom he sold it, his life would answer 385 3 a PER the crime of making another exactly the same. He must affix the real date on which it is cut ; and the person to whom the seal belongs, if in business, is obliged to take the most respectable witnesses of the occurrence, and to write to his correspondents declaring all accounts and deeds with his former seal null from the day upon which it was lost. " Among the lower classes of the citizens of Persia there is not much per- ceptible difference of manner. That which exists arises from the nature of their respective occupations and from the partial diffusion of knowledge. Almost all the tradesmen, and many of the mechanics, have received some education. There are schools in every town and city of Persia, in which the rudiments of the language of that country and of Arabia are taught. The child who attends at one of these seminaries, after he has learnt the alphabet, is made, as a religious duty, to read the Koran in Arabic, which he usually does without understanding one word of it. He is next taught to read some fables in the Persian language, and to write a legible hand ; here his education commonly ends ; and unless he is led by inclination to devote himself to study, or his occupation requires that he should practise what he has learnt, the lessons he has received are soon forgotten. " But this course of education, slight and superficial as it may seem, has the effect of changing the habits and of introducing a degree of refinement among those who benefit by it, which is unknown to their ruder country- men. " The Persians of all conditions are fond of society. Their table is in general well furnished, as the extraordinary cheapness of provisions of every kind, and the great plenty of fruit, enable even the lowest order of citizens to live well. The hog is the only animal whose flesh they are positively forbidden to eat. They are also, as Mahamadans, prohibited from tasting wine, but this rule is often broken; and as, to use their own phrase, " there is equal sin in a glass as in a flaggon," they usually, when they drink, indulge to excess. They are, indeed, so impressed with the idea that the sole pleasure of this forbidden liquor is centred in its intoxicating effects, that nothing but constant observation can satisfy them that Christians are not all drunkards. " It is," they often remark when speaking to a person of that persuasion, " one of the privileges of your religion to be so, and therefore neither attended with shame nor disgrace/' If an endeavour is made to remove these impressions by telling them that, though we are permitted to use wine, excess is always considered as de- grading and often, when it incapacitates for duty, as criminal, they listen with a smile of incredulity ; for they believe it impossible that men, who are not withheld by motives of a religious nature, can deny themselves what they are led, by the restraint imposed upon them, to deem one of the most delightful of all enjoyments. " The lower classes are entertained by the same exhibitions as the higher. Illuminations, fire-works, wrestlers, jugglers, buffoons, puppet-shows, musi- cians, and dancing-boys amuse all ranks at public feasts ; while riding on horseback, visiting, walking in gardens, and sitting in groups at their houses, or under the shade of a tree, to listen to a tale or poem, are the usual occupations of their idle hours. Dancing-girls were once numerous in Persia, and the first poets of that country have celebrated the beauty of their persons and the melody of their voices." 386 PER Dress. — " The dress of the Persians is much changed since the time of Chard- in ; it never possessed the dignity and solidity of the Turkish dress, and much less now than ever. So materially indeed have their fashions altered, that in comparing with the modes of the present day, the pictures and descrip- tions in Chardin and Le Bran, we can recognize no longer the same people. It is extraordinary that an Asiatic nation, so much charmed by show and brilliancy (as the Persians have always been supposed to be), should have adopted for their apparel the dark and sombre colours, which are now universal among all ranks. In the reign of the Zend family, indeed, light colours were much in vogue; but the present race, perhaps from a spirit of opposition, cherish dark ones. A Persian therefore looks a most melan- choly personage, and resembles much some of the Armenian priests and holy men whom one sees in Turkey. Browns, dark olives, bottle greens, and dark blues are the colours mostly worn. Red they dislike ; and it is singular that this is a hue, which fashion seems to have discarded even in the countries far beyond the northern and eastern confines of Persia; for the merchants of Bokhara, who come down annually to Bushahr to buy cloths, totally disregard scarlets, and for that colour will not give any- thing like the price which they will pay for others. " Although the climate requires full as much clothing as that of Turkey, the Persians do not clothe themselves by any means so warmly as the Turks. As the cold increases the number of his pelisses increase also, till in the progress of the winter a small and puny man often expands into a very robust and athletic figure; but the Persian's wardrobe does not thus extend over him as the season advances. " The following is a general catalogue of the articles of their dress : — 1. — The zeer jummah : a pair of very wide trowsers, either of red silk or blue cotton, reaching below the ancle and fastened by a string which passes through the top and is tied before. 1. — The peera hawn : a shirt generally of silk, which, going over the trowsers, reaches a few inches below the hips, and is fastened by two buttons over the top of the right shoulder. It goes close round the lower part of the neck, where it is sometimes orna- mented by a ribband or thin cord of silk. The opening of the shirt extends to the bottom of the ribs. 3. — Thealcalock: a tight vest made of chintz and quilted with cotton, which ties at the side and reaches as low as the thin part of the calf of the leg. It has sleeves extending to the wrist but open from the elbow. 4. — The caba : which is a long vest descending to the ancle, but fitting tight to the body as far only as the hips ; it then buttons at the side. The sleeves go over those of the alcalock, and from the elbow are closed by buttons only, that they may be opened thus far, for the purpose of ablution, when the namaz or prayer is said. There is another species of caba, called the begalee, which crosses over the breast, and fastens all down the side by a range of buttons to the hip ; this is generally made of cloth, or of shawl or cotton quilted, and, as it is warmer, is most used in winter. 5. — The outer coat is always made of cloth, and is worn or thrown off according to the heat of the weather. Of this dress there are many sorts : the tekmeh which has sleeves open from the elbow, but which are yet so fashioned as to admit occasionally the lower part also of the arm ; these sleeves are generally permitted to hang behind. The coat itself is quite round, buttons before, and drops like a petticoat over the shawl that goes round 387 PER the waist. The oymeh which is like the tekmeh, except that from the hips downwards it is open at the sides. The baroonee, which is a loose and ample robe with proportionally ample arms, generally made of cloth and faced with velvet, and thrown negligently over the shoulders. 6. — Over the caba comes the shal kemer, which is the bandage round the waist ; . this is made either of Cashmirian shawl, or of the common shawl of Kirman, or of English chintz, or of flowered muslin. The proper size is about eight yards long and one broad. To this is fastened (by a string neatly tied around it) a kunjur, or dagger, ornamented according to the wealth of the possessor, from an enameled pummel set in precious stones, to a common handle of bone and wood. 7 . — Besides the outer clothes, they have also coats trimmed with fur : such is the catebee, which is an uncommonly rich dress, covering the whole of the body with fur over the back and shoulders, fur at the cuffs, and fur inside. It is made of cloth of gold and brocades, with large ornaments. of gold lace in front, and forms altogether the most dignified among the habits in Persia. 8. — They have also a short jacket, called the coordee, which fits close to the body, but with loose flaps as low as the com- mencement of the swell of the thigh. 9. — The warmest of their dresses is a sheep-skeen with the fur inside and the leather part outside. It is called, from its sudorific qualities, the hummum or bath, but it is more gene- rally named the poshtln or skin. It is an ugly and unpleasant article The better sheep-skins come from Bokhara, and are covered with the finest wool. " The head-dress of every Persian, from the king to his lowest subject, is composed of one substance, and consists of a black cap about one foot and a half high. These caps are all jet black, and are all made of skins of the same animals. The finest are taken from the lamb, in the first moments of its birth ; and they decrease in value down to the skin of the full-grown sheep, which the common rayat wears. The lamb-skins are also used to line coats, and make very comfortable pelisses. The only distinction in the head-dress of Persia, is that of a shawl wrapped round the black cap ; and this distinction is confined to the king, to the princes, his sons, and to some of the nobility and great "officers of state. Cashmire shawls have been discouraged of late, in order to promote the domestic manufacture of brocade shawls. " Like the Turks, and indeed generally like other Asiatics, the Persians are very careful in preserving warmth in the feet. In winter they wear a thick woolen sock ; and in the air or in a journey, they bind their feet and legs with a long bandage of cloth, which they increase with the advance of the cold. They have three different sorts of shoes, and two sorts of boots. 1. — A green slipper, with a heel about an inch and a half high, with a painted piece of bone at the top ; these are worn by the higher classes, and by all before the king. 2. — A flat slipper, either of red or yellow leather, with a little iron shoe under the heel, and with a piece of bone over that shoe, on which, as in the first instance, the heel rests. 3. — A stout shoe (with a flat sole, turning up at the toe) which covers the whole foot, and is made either of leather or of thick-quilted cotton. It is worn by the peasants and by the chatters, or walking footmen. " The boots are, 1, a very large pair with high heels, turned up at the toe, made generally of Russia leather, and covering the leg. 2. A smaller and tighter kind buttoning at the side, and reaching only to the calf of the leg. 388 PER When the Persians ride, they put on a loose trowser of cloth called shalwar, into ■which they insert the skirts of the alcalock, as well as the silken trowsers, so that the whole looks like an inflatted bladder. The shalwar is very useful in carrying light baggage, as handkerchiefs, small books, &c, and not unfrequently a slight meal. The Persians shave all the head, except a tuft of hair just on the crown and two locks behind the ears ; but they suffer their heards to grow, and to a much larger size than the Turks, and to spread more about the ears and temples. They almost universally dye them black, by an operation not very pleasant, and necessary to be repeated generally once a fortnight. It is always performed in the hot bath, where the hair being well saturated takes the colour better. A thick paste of henna is first made, which is largely plastered over the beard, and which after remaining an hour is all completely washed off, and leaves the hair of a very strong orange colour, bordering upon that of brick dust. After this, a thick paste is made of the leaf of the indigo (which previously has been pounded to a fine powder), and of this also a deep layer is put upon the beard ; but this second process, to be done well, requires two full hours. During all this operation, the patient lies quietly flat upon his back ; whilst the dye (more particularly the indigo which is a great astringent) contracts the features of his face in a very mournful manner, and causes all the lower part of the visage to smart and burn. When the indigo is at last washed off, the beard is of a very dark bottle green, and becomes a jet black only when it has met the air for twenty-four hours. Some indeed are content with the henna or orange colour ; others more fastidious prefer a beard quite blue. The people of Bokhara are famous for their blue beards. It is inconceivable how careful the Persians are of this ornament ; all the young men sigh for it, and grease their chins to hasten the growth of the hairs ; because, until they have there a respectable covering, they are supposed not fit to enjoy any place of trust. " Another singular custom is that of dying the hands and feet ; this is done by the abovementioned henna, which is generally put over every part of the hands and nails, as far as the wrist and on the soles of the feet, the toes and nails.'" The condition and treatment of the women of Persia is thus fully entered upon by Sir John Malcolm : — "In Persia the lower classes deem females important in proportion as they are useful in domestic duties ; the higher consider them as born for their sensual gratification. Women have, in fact, no assigned place in this com- munity, but are what their husbands, or rather lords, may chose to make them. A favorite may, by the power of her mental or personal charms, establish an influence over her domestic tyrant, or she may obtain peculiar respect on account of her superior birth, and the consequent dread which her husband entertains of her relations. Other ties may produce still more remarkable effects, and habit and affection combined may lead a son to continue an attention or obedience to his mother that gives her an import- ance beyond the walls of the haram. But these rare instances ; though they sometimes form women of superior knowledge and character, yet can have no effect m counteracting the evil consequences which their total exclusion from society has upon the manners and morals of men. 389 PER " The natives of Persia, like all Mahamadans, consider themselves entitled to an unlimited indulgence in the pleasures of the haram, and, though they are restrained by religious considerations from marrying more than four wives, they conceive themselves at liberty to increase the number of females in their family to any extent that suited their inclination or their conveni- ence. The priesthood are expected to be the most moderate in their use of the indulgence granted by their prophet, and we may judge of their habits by the remark of a very grave historian who, after an animated eu- logium upon the character of a priest of high reputation, concludes by ob- serving that ' the continence of this virtuous man was so extraordinary that it is affirmed that, during his life, he never had intercourse with any other females except his four legitimate wives !! ' " The Persians are entitled by law and usage, to take females, not within the prohibited degrees of kindred, in three different ways — by marriage, by purchase, and by hire. Their marriages are made according to prescribed forms : the female is betrothed by the parents ; she may, however, refuse her consent when the priest comes to require it, and the marriage cannot proceed if she continues averse to it; but this rarely happens, as the parties never see one another before they are united, and seldom hear any reports of each other but what are favorable. A woman has this and many other rights according to the Mahamadan law, but a being who is first immured by her parents, and afterwards by her husband, and whose name it is almost a crime to pronounce, can practically have little protection from these useless privileges. The nuptial ceremony must take place before two or more witnesses ; the contract of marriage is regularly made out by an officer of the law, who attends ; it is then attested and given to the female, who preserves it with great care, for it is also the deed by which she is entitled to her dower, which is the principal part of her provision in the event of her husband's death, and her sole dependence if she is divorced. Marriages in Persia, as in all eastern countries, are very expensive. It is not unusual for a man to waste the means he has spent his life in acquiring on his nuptial day. They connect their display upon this occasion with their personal reputation, and endeavor to surpass their equals with a ruinous spirit of emulation. " A Persian may purchase as many female slaves as he likes, and their condition is in no degree altered by the manner in which they live in his family. The sweeper of his house, and the partner of his bed, are alike exposed to be sold again if they have been purchased, but this right is seldom exercised, as it is at variance with that jealous sense of honor, which almost all Mahamadans entertain regarding females with whom they have cohabited. " The marriage by contract, and for a limited period, is peculiar to the citizens of Persia. It is said to have been a custom in Arabia when Maha- mad first introduced his religion into that country, but, though the prophet tolerated it, IJmar abolished it as a species of legal prostitution that was inconsistent with good morals. The Turks, therefore, and other Sunis, who respect the decrees of this caliph, hold this practice in abhorrence. The parties agree to live together for a fixed period, which varies from a lew days to ninety-nine years. The sum agreed upon as the lady's hire is mentioned in the contract given to her, which is made out by the Kazi, or a Mala, and regularly witnessed. The man may dissolve the contract when 390 PER he chooses, but the female has a right, from the hour the deed is signed, to the whole amount of the sum that was agreed to be paid her. If the parties are willing, the deed is renewed at the period it expires. _ This contract conveys no rights to the female beyond the sum specified as her hire. She is under no circumstances deemed entitled to share in the inheritance of the property of the person to whom she is contracted. This species of engagement usually takes place between persons of very unequal condition in life : the woman is generally of a very inferior family, and her condition can only be termed a state of legal concubinage. " A man in Persia can divorce his wife at pleasure, but there is an expense and scandal attending such a proceeding which renders it very unfrequent. It may, indeed, be said never to occur but among the lower classes, for a man of rank would consider himself disgraced by taking a step which would expose a woman, who had been his wife, to be seen by others. The forms of divorce among the Shias differ in some trifliDg points from those observed by the Sunls. Divorces are never on account of adultery, as that crime, if proved, subjects a woman, who has been legally married, to capital punish- ment. The general causes are complaints of badness of temper, or extra- vagance on the part of the husbands, and of neglect, or cruel usage, on that of their wives. If the husband sues for a divorce, he is compelled to pay his wife's dower ; but, if she sues for it, her claim to that is cancelled. The consequence is that it is not unfrequent among the lower orders, when a man desires to be rid of his partner, to use her so ill that she is forced to institute a suit for separation, and that, if granted, abrogates all her claims upon her husband. " The condition of slaves in Persia has been before mentioned ; they are not numerous and cannot be distinguished by any peculiar habits or usages from the other classes, further than that they are generally more trusted and more favored by their superiors. The name of slave in this country may be said to imply confidence on one part and attachment on the other. They are mostly Georgians or Africans ; and being obtained or purchased when young, they are usually brought up in the Mahamadan religion. Their master, who takes the merit of their conversion, appropriates the females to his own haram, or to the service of his wives ; and when the males are at a proper age, he marries them to a female slave in the family, or to a free woman. Their children are brought up in the house, and have, as has been before noticed, a rank only below relations. In almost every family of consequence, the person in whom the greatest trust is reposed is a house- born slave, and instances of their betraying their charge, or abusing the confidence that is placed in them, are Very rare. " The Persians have no ceremony that corresponds entirely to our christen- ing, because their children become Mahamadans as soon as the kalmeh Islam has been whispered into their ear ; but they have one called the shabe- be khair or " be the night propitious," which is for the purpose of giving the child a name. If the father of the child be in good circumstances, he collects his friends together and makes a feast. He also requires the attendance of several mullas, and, when the majlis or assembly is com- plete, sweet-meats are brought in and eaten . The infant is also brought into the majlis and placed near one of the mulas. The father of the child then gives out certain names — five in number — each of which is written separately on separate slips of paper. These slips of paper are placed either within 391 PER the Koran or under the edge of the nammad or carpet. The fateh* which is the first sural or chapter of the Koran, is read. One of the slips of paper is then taken out at random by the hand of the father, and the child is called after the name which is there inscribed. A mula takes up the babe, pronounces the name in its ear, and places the paper on its swad- dling clothes. The relations of the child then each give it money and other presents, and this custom they call the ruh-namah, or showing the face. " They have still another custom which they call the akikah. The father of the child kills a sheep, of the flesh of which he makes broth, but cau- tiously preserves all the bones. He invites his friends, relations, and the poor in the highways to partake of this food, from which he and his wife are excluded ; but when the entertainment is over, he carefully collects the bones and, having selected a clean place near some running water, he there buries them. During the majlis the name of the child is given. " They adopt also ceremonies about shaving the child's head. It frequently happens after the birth of a son that, if the parent be in distress or the child be. sick, or that there be any other cause of grief, the mother makes a vow that no razor shall come upon the child's head for a certain portion of time, and sometimes for all his life. If the child recovers and the cause of grief be removed, and if the vow be but for a time, so that the mother's vow be fulfilled, then she shaves his head at the end of the time prescribed, makes a small entertainment, collects money and other things from her rela- tions and friends, which are sent as nazars (offerings) . to the mosque at Karbela, and are there consecrated." " The manners and customs of the tribes of Persia are, in great measure, different from those of the residents of cities and towns. The chiefs of these tribes, during peace, usually reside at court or at provincial capitals, and leave their followers, whom they occasionally visit, to the direction of the elders of the different branches and families of the tribe. The number which remains in one body is regulated by their means of subsistence. They, in general, change their residence with the season, and may be said, throughout the year, to enjoy a fine climate. They pitch their dark tents on the finest of those plains over which they have a right of pasture, and the encampment is usually on the banks of a rivulet or a stream. It is commonly formed in a square, and the abode of the principal elder is only to be distinguished from that of the lowest man in the tribe by its size. All are made of the same coarse materials, and in the same shape. The horses, mules and sheep, are turned loose to feed around the encampment, while the young men, if not employed in hunting, are generally seen sit- ting in circles, smoking or indulging in repose ; the women are busily occupied with their domestic duties, or aiding aged men and boys in tending the flocks. It is the usage of these tribes, unless when very strong, to pitch their tents in the vicinity of a range of mountains, that their flocks and families may be within reach of a place of security on the occurrence of danger. Along the base of those hills which divide Kurdistan from Azarbljan and Irak, every valley is occupied, during the spring and sum- mer, by the camps of these wanderers. " The men of some of the rudest of the tribes of Persia are accused by the other natives of that country of paying hardly any attention to the forms of religion, or to its prescriptions relative to forbidden food, and there 392 PER is no doubt that the accusation is in some degree just. Tbey openly eat the flesh of the hare, which is classed by Mahamadan divines among meats which, though not legally prohibited, are deemed abominable, and there is reason to believe that many of them are not deterred by the Koran from feasting, when they have an opportunity, upon swine's flesh. " Though the chiefs of the principal tribes from being brought up at court, or at the capital of a province, are often as well educated and as polished in their manners as any of the higher classes of the court of Persia, and, though some of their followers who accompany them amid scenes com- paratively civilized cannot be distinguished from the inhabitants of the cities whose manners they adopt, and among whom they frequently inter- marry and settle, the bulk of the tribe, who remain always in the tents or in their rude villages, continue in a state of the most barbarous ignorance. They circumcise their children when at the proper age, and contract mar- riages according to the prescribed customs ; but they are said, and probably with truth, to be very neglectful of the other practices of the Mahammadan religion. Though some of them, who desire a character for superior piety, go through the regular ablutions and the forms of prayer, they are, in general, entirely ignorant of the words which they ought to repeat. " The wandering tribes of Persia are all plunderers, and they glory in ad- mitting that they are so. They are continually recounting their own success- ful acts of depredation, or those of their ancestors, and, from the chief to the lowest man in the tribe, they boast openly of deeds for which men would be capitally, punished in a better ordered government. Every sentiment that escapes them evinces their attachment to their predatory habits. They often regret the internal tranquillity of their country, and speak with rapture of those periods of confusion when every man who, to use their own expression, ' had a horse, a sword and a heart, could live in comfort and happiness/ " Though the highest of the military tribes of Persia are proud of being called plunderers, they hold in abhorrence the name of thieves. The cause of this distinction is obvious : the difference between force and fraud implies that between strength and weakness. There are, however, some of the lesser clans whose occupation is avowedly theft, but even these pretend to honor. "The inhabitants of Persia have always been famed for their great hospi- tality to strangers, but the chiefs of the warlike tribes of that country are, beyond all others, remarkable for the manner in which they perform this courteous duty. " The tribes of Persia, as well as those of Arabia, boast that, when once they pledge themselves to give protection, their word is inviolable. " The attachment of the tribes of Persia to the families of their chiefs is considerable. They will seldom consent to obey any other person, and in- stances often occur where an infant is carried into the field in order that the services of those who consider him as their only lawful leader may be obtained. If a general levy of the tribe be required for the service of the sovereign, it is effected with difficulty and delay, but a call connected with their, own safety, or that of their chieftain, is promptly obeyed. On such occasions the signal to assemble flies, to use their own phrase, ' from tent to tent, from hill to hill/ " The wandering tribes of Persia maintain a constant intercourse with the principal cities and towns of that country. They generally carry on a petty commerce in horses and sheep, which they breed, and in carpets, 393 3 b PER which are wove by their females. In return for these, they receive grain, cloth, money, and articles of hardware. The unwarlike part of the population of Persia are termed Tajak, which word means a person of civil occupation. But this class are not confined to cities. They are often attached to the wandering tribes, by whom they are employed to cultivate their fields and to tend their flocks. The tribes of Persia have not, however, at present many subjects of this description. They decrease as the government advances in vigor, and can release them from a dependence upon their rude masters. It is remarkable that all the Tajaks in Afghanistan, and part of Tartary, speak the Persian language, and this fact, while it aids us in fixing the ancient limits of that empire, appears to support the conjecture that, though these countries have been overrun at different periods by martial tribes, those races of their inhabitants who pursued the occupations of civil life have remained unchanged amid the revolutions to which the countries they inhabit have been exposed. " The ceremonies practised by the wandering tribes on the circumcision of their male children, on giving a name to a child, or in the burial of the dead, are substantially the same as those of the citizens of Persia and of all other Mahamadan countries ; but they continue to preserve at the funerals of chiefs and soldiers of high reputation the usages of their more remote ancestors. The charger of the departed warrior, carrying his arms and clothes, accompanies the procession, and it is not unusual for those who desire to show their respect for the deceased to send a horse without a rider, but with arms upon his saddle, to swell the train of the mourning cavalcades Every trace of these rude rites is interesting, as it marks the origin of custom, that are still observed by the most civilized nations. " The principal ceremonies of marriage among the tribes in Persia are the same as those observed by the inhabitants of the cities and towns of that kingdom. Like them they settle a dower upon their wives. The ring is sent in all due form and presents are interchanged between the families. They also observe the usage of staining the hands with red dye the day before that of the marriage, and, like the citizens, they dissipate their property on their nuptial feasts. These feasts, among men of rank or wealth, are protracted to thirty or forty days, and, with the poorest person, they continue three. That period is indeed requisite for the observance of the established forms. Among all ranks in Persia, the bridegroom appears, on his wedding-day, dressed in all the finery he can obtain, and, on that day, he receives from his relations and friends the same obsequious attention which is paid by inferiors to a superior of elevated rank. All who come into his presence sit below him, offerings are brought to the bridgerqom from his relations, and these are received with great ceremony by some of his friends, who act on that day as his servants. Two persons, generally near relations, are appointed to carry his orders into exe- cution ; these are termed his right-hand man and left-hand man : and, if the bridegroom is a child, or bashful, these men act for him and increase the mirth of the wedding by a thousand tricks which they play on his relations and friends. They pretend to receive the bridegroom's commands as those of a monarch, to seize one person, to fine another, and to flog a third. These marriage pranks are usually preconcerted, but, even when not, they never give offence, as instances of bad humor at a nuptial festival are of very rare occurrence. The joys in the house of the bride are more moderate ; 394 PEE, the lady is bathed, perfumed, and dressed in the richest clothes her family can afford. She also sits in state, and, before she leaves her own house or tent, she receives presents from a number of her friends. " When this ceremony is over, she is covered with a scarlet veil, is mounted upon horseback, and conveyed to her husband's dwelling, who receives her at the threshold. The above usages are now almost as common among the citizens as among the wandering tribes of Persia. It remains to speak of those customs which are more peculiar to the latter, and several of which, from their character, probably existed among this class long before the in- troduction of the Mahamadan religion : — " On the morning that the bride is to be conveyed to the house or tent of the bridegroom, her friends assemble. If she is the daughter of a chief or of an elder of a tribe, she is accompanied by all the horsemen whose attendance he can command ; the party proceed, accom- panied by dancers and music; and if the place of their destination is near, they take a circuitous road to it that the enjoyment of this part of the ceremony may be prolonged. When they appear at a distance the bridegroom mounts his horse, and, attended by his friends, proceeds to meet the cavalcade. He holds an apple or an orange in his hand, and when sufficiently near to be certain of his aim, he throws it at her with considerable force. All is silent attention from the time the parties come near each other till this act, which is the signal for general uproar and confusion. The bridegroom wheels his horse round, and rides at full speed to his place of abode. Every horseman of the bride's party endea- vors to seize him, and he that succeeds has his horse, saddle and clothes, as a reward. This, however, is only the case where the party is wealthy ; among the poorer classes, a few pieces of silver are paid as a fine to the successful pursuer. The bridegroom, however, is not often taken ; for, as it is a point of honor to escape, he rides the fleetest horse of his tribe, and his friends endeavor by every means to favor his retreat. " When the bride arrives at her future residence, the women by whom she is attended entreat her not to alight. The husband's relations crowd around her, and beg that she will. This is the moment of her power : every male of the family, into which she is about to enter, brings her presents proportionate to their ability, or their feelings of regard to her husband. They also solicit her to give up part of her dower, and their intreates are afterwards repeated by the husband ; but the women of Persia are naturally tenacious of the only security they have against bad usage or accident, and though they sometimes return a part, they usually reserve enough to render it a check upon those to whom they intrust their future comfort and happi- ness. At these marriages, the men and women of the tribe dance ; and the most polished chiefs, though they may conform, in the marriages of their own family, with the usages of the inhabitants of the cities in which they live, are in the habit of visiting the tents of their followers on these joyous occasions, and of contributing, by their munificence and their example of unreserved hilarity, to the mirth of these wedding feasts. " The usage of divorce among the tribes is the same as among the inhabi- tants of cities, but it is of still rarer occurrence. This may be ascribed to various causes. The virtue of the females is more strict ; they are, from their labor, more valuable to their husbands; and the poorer class have seldom the means of paying a dower to a wife whom they divorce. We 395 ; ' FER may also conclude that it is dangerous, in such a community, to offend the relations of a female of a respectable family ; for though these are prompt to be her executioners, if she is proved guilty of adultery, they are her strenu- ous supporters as long as she is innocent of that crime. " The time of the male part of the tribes in Persia is passed in riding, practising their military exercises, and hunting. Their fare is coarse and moderate ; they now and then feast upon meat, but their general diet is a hard black bread, sour milk, and curds. They do often indulge in intoxi- cating liquors ; their chief delight is in sitting together, smoking their pipes, and in listening to songs and tales, or in looking at the tricks, grimaces, and witticisms of buffoons (who are to be found in every quarter of Persia), and some of whom are perfectly skilled in their art. " The men of the wandering tribes delight to tell or listen to romantic tales : some of them not only make themselves masters of this art, but learn to recite verses, particularly those of Perdosi. A person who has cultivated this talent enjoys a great share of the respect of his associates, who frequently call upon him to amuse an idle hour by transporting his hearers into the regions of fancy, or to excite their minds to deeds of valor, by repeating lines which celebrate the renown of their ancestors. "The women of the tribes of Persia who dwell in tents are seldom veiled, but are more respected than the females who dwell in cities, because they are more useful to the community of which they form a part. They not only share the bed, but the fatigues and dangers of their hus- bands, and the masculine habits which they acquire do not displease, for they seem suited to their condition of life. If they are not of high rank, they perform all the domestic and menial offices of their own home, and strangers, who visit their houses and tents, are certain to receive the kindest and most hospitable welcome from them. But there is nothing in the manner of these women that can be mistaken ; it is fearless, but not for- ward, and evidently proceeds from the consciousness of security, not the absence of shame. Though in general their complexion is dark and sun- burnt, they have sometimes, when young, a considerable share of beauty ; a sense of their free condition gives lustre to their eyes, and they often add to fine features a very graceful form. But among the lower orders of this class, their beauty is soon destroyed by hard labor and continual exposure to the climate. " The poverty and usages of the wandering tribes often prevent the men from marrying even the number of wives allowed by the law. Many of them have only one, and unless she is old, barren, or unfit to work, they do not marry another. The reason is that they can seldom afford to support more than one wife ; and from the liberty which the females enjoy, their quarrels, where there are several in a family, would be seriously embarrassing; and marriage, which is considered as one of the chief bonds of union between the men of a tribe, would become a constant source of discord and contention. The practice of hiring wives for a certain period, which prevails in the cities and towns of Persia, is held in abhorrence by the females of tribes ; and these have frequently been known to attack priests in the most violent manner, whom they be- lieved to have sanctioned an usage which they deem so degrading. Though we may conclude, from what has been stated, that these women enjoy more freedom and consideration than the other females of Persia, they are still 396 PER remote from that rank which has been assigned to the sex among the civilized nation of Europe ; they toil, while their lord spends his hours in indolence or amusement, and are regarded more as servants than as associates. If a man of a wandering tribe has not so many wives and slaves as the religion he professes permits, or as his brother Mahamadan of the city, it is merely, as has been stated, because his poverty, or the condition of the society to which he belongs, limits his desires. The moment that his situation alters, he is prompt to riot in every species of dissipation ; and the partner, who more than shares his toils, has no chance of an equal partition in any good fortune that may attend him. If he is raised to a high station, he deems an increased indulgence of his sensual appetites one of the chief pleasures, of advancement, and when he becomes an inhabitant of a city, he at once adopts the customs of a citizen. His first wives, if he has more tban one, are compelled to sacrifice liberty they before enjoyed, and to endure that neglect which is the natural consequence of his power to obtain younger and more beautiful females. Among these tribes, however, maternal claims are always respected. The mother's influence over her son usually continues through life, and she is ready to maintain that authority, which is grounded on habit and affection, by ministering to his gratification. It is her duty to preside over his family ; and if he is rich, he usually intrusts to her not only the choice of his female partners, but their management. An anticipation of the enjoyment of this power makes the women in Persia anxiously desire to have male children. The birth of a son is hailed with joy ; that of a daughter is always a disappointment. " These observations on the usages of the wandering tribes chiefly apply to those of Persian and Turkish origin. The Arabian tribes subject to Persia, who inhabit the shores of the Gulf, are more assimilated in their habits to the people from which they are derived, than to those amid whom they dwell. They continue to speak Arabic, and preserve almost all the customs of their original country. They in general dress like the inhabi- tants of Arabia, wearing, instead of the cap of the Persians, a light turban, and are usually covered with a flowing cloak. The manners of this race, through less rude than those of the other tribes of Persia, retain much of the wildness and independence of their ancestors. " The diet of the Arabian tribes in Persia is more frugal than that of any other of the inhabitants of that kingdom. It consists chiefly of dates. But what others would consider a hardship, habit with them has converted into an enjoyment ; and the Arab deems no food more delightful than that upon which he lives. " The Arabian tribes in Persia possess the power of flying from oppression when they cannot resist it. The sea is always open to them, and they are accustomed to that element. Not only the islands of the Gulf, but the neighbouring territories of Turkey and the opposite coast of Arabia, are inhabited by their brethren ; and these circumstances, combined with their original habits, give a freedom of sentiment and expression to this race of men that is very striking. " Though no country has undergone, during the last twenty centuries, more revolutions than the kingdom of Persia, there is, perhaps, none that is less altered in its condition. The power of the sovereigns and of the satraps of ancient times; the gorgeous magnificence of the court; 397 PER the habits of the people, their division into citizens, martial tribes, and savage mountaineers; the internal administration and mode of warfare, have continued essentially the same ; and the Persians, as far as we have the means of judging, are, at the present period, not a very different people from what they were in the time of Darius and of Noushlrwan. " Almost all the sovereigns of Persia have been religious, or were at least punctual observers of the forms of the faith which they professed. This is essential (even if they were not sincere) to the support of their power, and its necessity is inculcated from infancy. Lessons of morality are not thought to be so important. Every monarch of Persia is considered at liberty to indulge, from his earliest youth, in the grossest sensuality. The boundless gratification of his passions is deemed a privilege of his condition ; and we may, perhaps trace to this, beyond all other causes, that constant change of dynasties which we meet with in the history of this country. Families are elevated to power by the efforts of some great and extraordinary man ; his immediate successors, stimulated by his example and by the necessity of exertion to maintain and extend the dominion that his courage and talents have acquired, pursue the same path, but their descendants are destroyed by the fame of their forefathers. Instructed to believe themselves born to rule, they conceive that they have only to enjoy the power which they in- herit. They give themselves up to the luxury by which they are courted ; listen to the flatterers by whom they are surrounded, till, enervated and subdued by a life of indolence and vice, they fall before a popular chief of their own country or a foreign enemy. " A monarch of Persia acknowledges nothing as obligatory upon him but the ritual observances of his religion. Mercy, generosity, and justice he admits to be virtues, but considers them as royal qualities — not duties. Accustomed to have every look obeyed, and to complete submission to his authority, he is as impatient of any obstacle to the fulfilment of his desires as he is insensible to the value of devoted service. " There is, perhaps, nothing more difficult than for a monarch of Persia to continue humane, even if that should be his natural disposition. The con- stant habit of directing and witnessing executions must, in the course of time, harden his nature ', and those intrusted with the education of the princes of this' country, as if apprehensive that an indulgence in tender feel- ings should interfere with the performance of their future duties, take them, when almost infants, to witness scenes at which men would shudder. These early lessons appear to have been almost uniformly successful, for we have hardly one instance, in the history of Persia, of a king of that country evincing any uncommon degree of humanity ; while there are many to prove that the habit of shedding blood often becomes a passion, by a brutal in- dulgence in which human beings appear to lose that rank and character which belong to their species. " The sovereigns of Persia are sometimes compelled to devise the means of secretly destroying those powerful subjects whose allegiance they suspect, but whom they fear openly to accuse or to attack. Policy, and indeed self-preservation, may justify such proceedings, but the necessity of having recourse to them cannot prevent their baneful influence on the mind, nor alter that impression which they are calculated to make. " The character of the princes of the blood in Persia can never be correctly known. They always act under great restraint. Their manners are in 398 PER general kind and prepossessing, as their principal object is to attach to their person those with whom they associate, and to gain a popularity that may promote their future advancement. Though the situation of these princes should impress them with the necessity of great prudence, if not of dissimulation, the flattery of those by whom they are surrounded, and the arrogance of high birth, very frequently counteract these salutary impressions ; and, when entrusted with the exercise of authority, they often display as much violence as if their brows were already encircled with that crown which is to vest them with despotic and uncontrolled power. " The ministers and chief officers of the court of Persia are almost always men of polished manners, well skilled in the business of their respective departments, of pleasant conversation, subdued temper, and very acute observation; but these agreeable and useful qualities are in general all that they possess. Nor is virtue or liberal knowledge to be expected in men whose lives are wasted in attention to forms ; whose means of subsistence are derived from the most corrupt sources; whose occupation is intrigues that have always the same objects, that of preserving themselves or of ruining others, who cannot, without danger, speak any language but that of flattery and deceit ; and who are, in short, condemned by their con- dition to be venal, artful, and false. There have, no doubt, been many ministers of Persia whom it would be injustice to class in this general decription, but even those most distinguished for their virtues and their talents have been forced, in some degree, to accommodate their principles to their station ; and unless where the confidence of their sovereign has placed them beyond the fear of rivals, necessity has compelled them to practise habits of subserviency and dissimulation, which are at variance with that truth and integrity that can alone constitute a claim to the respect which all are disposed to grant to good and great men. " The characters of the governors of provinces and of cities may be said to be in a considerable degree formed on that of the reigning sovereign, but the system of the government must always dispose this class to abuse the brief authority with which they are vested. They are, however, from the situation in which they are placed, in general more manly and open, both in their manner and conduct, than the ministers and courtiers, and are therefore, as a body, entitled to more respect ; for habits of violence and injustice do not debase the nature of man so much as those of deceit and falsehood. " The religious orders in Persia are divided into several classes. The character of the few who have attained very high rank has been before noticed. They are usually men of learning, of mild temper, and retired habits. They are very careful to preserve the respect they enjoy by cherish- ing those impressions that are entertained of their piety and humility. It is rare to see them intolerant, except in cases where they deem the interest of that religion, of which they are the head, in danger. The lower classes of the priesthood in Persia are commonly of a very opposite character to their superiors. With little knowledge and great pretensions, they demand a respect which they seldom receive, and are, in consequence, among the the most discontented of the community. The general disposition of the Persians to treat strangers of a different religion with kindness and hospi- tality is a subject of constant irritation to them. They rail at all com- munication with infidels, and endeavour to obtain an importance with the 399 PER lower orders of the people by a display of their bigotry and intolerance. This class of men are often accused by their countrymen of indulging in the gratification of the worst passions of the mind. To say a man hates like a Mvila is to assert that he cherishes towards another sentiments of the most inveterate hostility. " There is considerable difference of character, among the inhabitants of the various cities and towns of Persia, which originates in the opposite feelings and habits which they have derived from their ancestors. The natives of Kasvin, Tabrez, Hamadan, Shiraz, and Yezd are as remark- able for their courage as those of Kum, Kashan, and Isfahan are for their cowardice. The former are chiefly descended from martial tribes; while the forefathers of the latter have, for many centuries, pursued civil occupations. But, though some of the citizens of Persia are less warlike than others, the different shades of character which this occasions are not of so much consequence as to prevent their being included in a general description. The whole of this community may be deemed, as far as regards their personal appearance, a fine race of men; they are not tall, but it is rare to see any of them diminutive or deformed, and they are in general strong and active. Their complexions vary from a dark olive to a fairness which approaches that of a northern European ; and if they have not all the bloom of the latter, their florid healthy look often gives them no inconsiderable share of beauty. As a people they may be praised for their quickness of apprehension, vivacity, and the natural politeness of their manners. They are sociable and cheerful, and, with some remarkable exceptions, as prodigal in disbursement as they are eager of gain. The higher classes of the citizens of Persia are kind and indulgent masters ; and the lower ranks are, as far as respects the active performance of their duty, and the prompt execution of the orders they receive, the best of servants. In countries where the law grants equal protection to all ranks of society, and servitude does not imply dependence, the master and servant are much more separated than in despotic states. In the latter, where there are no middle classes, the servant is often the humble friend, and lives in habits of in- timacy that could only exist where the actual distinction is so great as to remove all danger of either forgetting the inequality of their condition. " The falsehood of the Persians is proverbial, nor are the inhabitants of that country backward to deny this national reproach ; but they argue that this vice appertains to the government, and is the natural consequence of the con- dition of the society in which they live. Tthere can be no doubt that when rulers practise violence and oppression, those who are oppressed will shield themselves by every means within their power ; and when they are destitute of combination and strength, they can only have recourse to art and duplicity ; nor is the moral character always debased by the use of this species of defence. Instances continually occur in Persia, as in other countries subject to an arbitrary government, where the head of a village, or the magis- trate of a city, entitles himself to the gratitude and admiration of those under him by a various and undaunted perseverance in falsehood, by which he endangers his own life and property, to save others who consider him as their guardian and protector. " The frame of private society in Persia is, perhaps, still more calculated to render men artful and false than the constitution of their government. The wives and slaves of a despotic husband and master must have all the vices 400 PER of their debased condition. The first lesson which their children learn from the example of those they love is to practise deceit ; and this early impression is confirmed by all their future habits. They may hear and admire moral sentences upon the beauty and excellence of truth, but prudence warns them against a rigid adherence to so dangerous a virtue. The oaths which they constantly use to attest their veracity are only proofs of their want of it. They swear by the head of the king, by that of the person they address, by their own, and by that of their son, that they are not asserting what is false; and if a stranger should continue to evince suspicion, they sometimes exclaim, — ' Believe me ; for, though a Persian, I am speak- ing the truth/ There are, no doubt, some of the natives of Persia who do not deserve to be included in this general description, and who are distinguished by their regard for truth, but their numbers are too incon- siderable to save their countrymen from the reproach of falsehood as a prevalent national vice. " The citizens of Persia are not subdued by their situation into a submissive character. They are easily inflamed into passion, and act, when under its influence, like men careless of the result. A stranger, who is unac- quainted with the nature of the government and the latitude of speech which it permits in those whom it oppresses, is surpised to hear the meanest inhabitant of a town venting imprecations against his superiors, nay, sometimes against the sacred person of the king himself. These extraordi- nary ebullitions of passion, which are very common among the lower orders in Persia, generally pass unheeded. Sometimes they may provoke a reproof or a few blows, but they never receive consequence from the unwise interference of power to repress them. " Many of the inhabitants of the principal cities in Persia are men of some education ; but even those who are not so are remarkable for the fluency of their language. They express themselves with a freedom and boldness that is always restrained by the disparity of rank between them and the person whom they address. " The character of the military tribes differs essentially from that of the other inhabitants of Persia. The chiefs of these clans are often as much distinguished for their generosity as their courage. They are, from their condition, less artful than the ministers and principal civil officers of the kingdom ; but they cannot be deemed exempt from that vice, though it is corrected by their pride and violence. Arrogant from birth, and surrounded from infancy by devoted dependents, their minds are habi- tuated to overrate their own pretensions and depreciate those of others. When inflamed with passion, they in an instant lose all that courtly manner which they are accustomed to assume, and give way to the most ungovernable rage. They seldom suffer from the bold imprudence of the language which they use on these occasions, as they can always plead in excuse the habits of the rude class to which they belong ; and the con- sideration they demand upon this ground is hardly ever refused, even by the monarch himself if he has been the object of their intemperance. The character of these military nobles may be said to change with the state of their country : when that is settled for any long period, they lose a great deal of their native honesty and violence. Educated at the capital, where in youth they are generally kept as hostages for the good conduct of their fathers, and compelled to constant attendance on 401 3 c PER the king after they have attained manhood, they become in time courtiers, and are not, except in being more haughty, materially different from the other nobles and principal officers of the country. We can neither praise them nor any other of the higher ranks in Persia for their strictness in either moral or religious duties : to the former, they do not even pretend to give much attention ; and though they are careful as to the observance of all the forms of the latter, they often appear indifferent as to the substance, and are in the habit of discussing the tenets and dogmas of their faith with a freedom that sometimes borders upon impiety. " The character of the Illiats, or men who continue to dwell in tents, is very opposite to that of the inhabitants. They have the virtues and vices of their condition; are sincere, hospitable, and brave; but rude, violent and rapacious. They are not in need of falsehood and deceit, and therefore not much in the habit of practising them ; but if they have fewer vices than the citizens of Persia, it is evidently the absence of temptation, and the ignorance of luxury and refinement, which gives them all the superiority they boast ; for it is remarked that they never settle in towns, or enter them as victors, without exceeding the inhabitants in every species of profligacy. " The females of Persia who dwell in towns are usually placed in the situation of slaves, and have therefore many of those qualities which belong to that condition. The different shades of character of a race, who can hardly be said to have any influence in the community, is of little importance ; and if it were otherwise, we cannot have sufficient information of the subject to form any correct judgment upon it. If common report is to be credited, or if we grant our belief to the tales of Persian writers, the art and ingenuity of the women of that country are very often suc- cessful in eluding the jealous vigilance of their domestic tyrants. Of the females of the wandering tribes we have already spoken. They enjoy a fair portion of liberty, and if they are inferior to the natives of cities in beauty of person and softness of manner, they are superior to them in industry, in chastity, and many other virtues. We meet, indeed, with frequent examples among this class of an elevation of sentiment and an heroic courage, which nothing but the freedom of their condition could inspire. " In speaking generally of the inhabitants of Persia, we may describe them as a handsome, active and robust race of men, of lively imagination, quick apprehension, and of agreeable and prepossessing manners. As a nation they may be termed brave,_ though the valour they have displayed, like that of every other 'people in a similar condition of society, has in a great degree depended upon the character of their leaders and the nature of those objects for which they have fought. Their vices are still more prominent than their virtues. Compelled, by the nature of their government, to have recourse on every occasion to art or violence, they are alternately submissive and tyrannical. Many of their more serious defects of character may be attributed to the same cause, and there is, perhaps, no eountry in which so much of the immorality of its inhabitants can be referred to a bad system of internal administration as Persia. This reflection, though it may mitigate the sense we entertain of the depravity of individuals, leaves but little hope of their amendment ; for it is evident that can alone be effected by the concurrence of many radical changes with 402 PER a complete alteration in their political condition — an event which neither their past history nor present state can lead us to anticipate." The following description by Morier, of an entertainment which was given in his honor at Shiraz, is interesting as shewing something of the amusements of the higher classes : — "As soon as we were seated the amusements commenced, and at the same moment the rope-dancer vaulted, the dancing boys danced, the water- spouter spouted, the fire-eater devoured fire, the singers sang, the musicians played on their kamanchas, and the drummers beat lustily on their drums. This singular combination of noises, objects and attitudes, added to the cries and murmurs of the crowd around, amused, yet almost distracted, us. " The rope-dancer performed some feats, which really does credit to his profession. He first walked over his rope with his balancing pole, then vaulted on high ; he ascended the rope to a tree in an angle of 54° ; but, as he was reaching the very extremity of the upper range of the angle, he could proceed no further, and remained in an uncertain position for the space of two minutes. He afterwards tied his hands to a rope-ladder of three large steps, and, first balancing his body by the middle on the main line, let fall the ladder and himself, and was only brought up by the strength of his wrists thus fastened to their support. He next put on a pair of high-heeled shoes and paraded about again, then put his feet into two saucepans and walked backwards and forwards. After this he suspended himself by his feet from the rope, and, taking a gun, deliberately loaded and primed it, and, in that pendant position, took an aim at an egg (placed on the ground beneath him), and put his ball through it. After this he carried on his back a child whom he contrived to suspend, with his own body besides, from the rope, and thence placed in safety on the ground. His feats were numerous, and as he was mounted on a rope much more elevated than those on which such exploits are displayed in England, they were also proportionably dangerous. A trip would have been his inevitable destruction. He was dressed in a fantastical jacket, and wore a pair of breeches of crimson satin, something like those of Europeans. The boys danced, or rather paced the ground, snapping their fingers to keep time with the music, jingling their small brass castanets and uttering extra- ordinary cries. To us all this was tiresome, but, to the Persians, it appeared very clever. One of the boys, having exerted himself in various difficult leaps, at last took two kanjhars or daggers, one in each hand, and with these, springing forwards and placing their points in the ground, turned himself head-over-heels between them, and, again, in a second display, turned himself over with a drawn sword in his mouth. " A negro appeared on the side of a basin of water^ (in which three fountains were already playing), and, by a singular faculty which he possessed ol secreting liquids, managed to make himself a sort of fourth fountain by spouting water from his mouth. "We closely observed him : he drank two basins and a quarter of water, each holding about four quarts, and he was five minutes spouting them out. Next came an eater of fire. This man brought a large dish full of charcoal, which he placed deliberately before him, and then, taking up the pieces, conveyed them bit by bit successively into his mouth, and threw them out again when the fire was extinguished. He then took a piece, from which he continued to blow the most brilliant sparks for more than half an hour. The trick consists in putting in the 403 PER mouth some cotton dipped in the oil of naptha, on which the pieces of charcoal are laid, and from which they derive the strength of their fire. Now, the flame of this combustible is known to be little calid. Another man put into his mouth two balls alternately, which burnt with a brilliant flame, and which also were soaked in the same fluid. " The music was of the roughest kind. The performers were seated in a row round the basin of water. The band consisted of two men, who played the kamancha, a species of violin ; four, who beat the tamborine ; one, who thrummed the guitar ; one, who played on the spoons ; and two, who sang. The loudest in the concert were the songsters, who, when they ap- plied the whole force of their lungs, drowned every other instrument. The man with the spoons seemed to me the most ingenious and least discordant of the whole band. He placed two wooden spoons in a neat and peculiar manner betwixt the fingers of bis left hand, whilst he beat them with another spoon in his right. " All this continued till the twilight had farely expired, when there com- menced a display of fire-works on a larger scale than any that I recollect to have seen in Europe. In the first place, the director of the works caused to be thrown into the fountain before us a variety of fires, which were fixed on square flat boards, and which, bursting into the most splendid streams and stars of flame, seemed to put the water in one entire blaze. He then threw up some beautiful blue lights, and finished the whole by discharging immense vollies of rockets which had been fixed in stands, each of twenty rockets, in different parts of the garden, and particularly on the summits of the walls. Each stand exploded at once, and at one time the greater part of all the rockets were in the air at the same moment, and produced an effect grand beyond the powers of description. " At the end of this exhibition a band of choice musicians and songsters was introduced into the particular apartment where we were seated. A player on the kamancha really drew forth notes which might have done credit to the better instruments of the west, and the elastic manner with which he passed his bow across the strings convinced me that he himself would have been an accomplished performer, even among those of Europe, if his ear had been tutored to the harmonies and delicacies of our science. The notes of their guitar corresponded exactly to those of our instrument. Another sang some of the odes of Hafiz, accompanied by the kamancha, and in a chorus by the tamborines. " After this concert, some parts of which were extremely noisy and some not unpleasant even to our ears, appeared from behind a curtain a dirty- looking negro, dressed as a faquir or beggar, with an artificial hump, and with his face painted white. This character relates facetious stories, threw himself into droll attitudes, and sang humorous songs. Amongst other things he was a mimic ; and, when he undertook to ridicule the inhabitants of Ispahan, he put our Shlraz audience into ecstacies of delight and laughter. He imitated the drawling manner of speaking, and the sort of nonchalance so characteristic of the Ispahanls. The people of Shlraz (who regard, themselves as the prime of Persians, and their language as the most pure, and their pronunciation as the most correct) are never so well amused as when the people and the dialect of Ispahan are ridiculed. Those of Ispahan, on the other hand, boast, and with much reason, of their superior cleverness and learning, though, with these advantages, indeed, they are said to mix 404 PER roguery and low cunning. The exhibition finished by the singing of a boy, the moat renowned of the vocal performers at Shiraz and one of the prince's own band. His powers were great, descending from the very highest to the very lowest notes, and the tremulations of his voice, in which the great acme of his art appeared to consist, were continued so long and so violently that his face was convulsed with pain and exertion. In order to aid the modulations he kept a piece of paper in his hand, with which he did not cease to fan his mouth. Morier thus describes a Persian dinner : — " The concert over, we collected our legs under us (which till this time we had kept extended at ease) to make room for the 'sofras/ or table-cloths, which were now spread before us. On these were first placed trays of sweet viands, light sugared cakes, and sherbet of various descriptions. After these, dishes of plain rice were put. each before two guests, then pillaos, and after them a succession and variety which would have sufficed ten companies of our number. On a very moderate calculation 'there were two hundred dishes, exclusive of the sherbets. All these were served up id bowls and dishes of fine china, and in the bowls of sherbet were placed the long spoons made of pear tree, and each of which contained about the measure of six common table spoons, and with these every guest helped himself. The Persians bent themselves down to the dishes, and ate in general most heartily and indiscriminately of everything, sweet and sour, meat and fish, fruit and vegetable. They are very fond of ice, which they eat constantly and in great quantities, a taste which becomes almost necessary to qualify the sweetmeats which they devour so profusely. The Minister, Nasr "Ola Khan, had a bowl of common ice constantly before him, which he kept eating when the other dishes were carried away. They are equally fond of spices and of every other stimulant, and highly recommended one of their sherbets, a composition of sugar, cinnamon, and other strong ingredients. As the envoy sat next to the minister, and I next to the envoy, we very frequently shared the marks of his peculiar attention and politeness, which consisted in large handfuls of certain favourite dishes. These he tore off by main strength and put before us : sometimes afull grasp of lamb mixed with a sauce of prunes, pistachio nuts, and raisins ; at another time, a whole partridge disguised by a rich brown sauce ; and then, with the same hand, he scooped out a bit of melon, which he gave into our palms, or a great piece of omelette thickly swimming in fat ingredients. The dishes lie promiscuously before the guest, who all eat without any particular notice of one another. The silence, indeed, with which the whole is transacted is one of the most agreeable circumstances of a Persian feast. There is no rattle of plates and knives and forks, no confusion of ' lacquies/ no drinking of healths, no disturbances of carving, scarcely a word is spoken, and all are intent on the business before them. Their feasts are soon over; and although it appears difficult to collect such an immense number of dishes, and to take them away again without much confusion and much time, yet all is so well regulated that everything disappears as if by magic. The lacquies brinw the dishes in long trays called ' conchas/ which are discharged in order^ and which are again taken up and carried away with equal facility ; when the whole is cleared, and the cloths rolled up, ewers and basins are brought in, and every one washes his hand and mouth. Until the water is presented, 405 PER it is ridiculous enough to see the right hand of every person (which is covered with the complicated fragments of all the dishes) placed in a certain position over his left arm. There is a fashion even in this.''' Cities. — " Persia has in all ages been remarkable for the magnificence and splendour of its cities. Isfahan, which was for several centuries the capital of this kingdom, though it has ceased to be the royal residence, is still the most populous. " Tehran can as yet boast of no splendid edifices, except the palace of the monarch. The munificence of Karlm Khan ornamented Shiraz with a bazaar or market, equal, if not superior, to any at Isfahan ; but Shiraz has not many public buildings, and as there are few gardens and no avenues within its walls, its bare mud-terraced houses, when viewed at a distance, give it more the appearance of a ruined than a flourishing city. The town of Hamadan, once so famous under its ancient name of Ecbatana, has few beauties to attract the at- tention of the traveller. Many of the other cities of Persia are as remarkable for the excellence of their buildings as for the romantic beauty of their situation. Their site is usually upon small rivers or streams, and surrounded with gardens. Almost all the towns in Persia have a defence : this is generally a high mud wall, which is flanked by turrets, and sometimes protected by a deep dry ditch and a rude glacis. In every city and town of Persia there are: one or more public caravan seraies for the accommodation of travellers. These edifices, which are also found at every stage on the principal roads of the kingdom, are in general built of stone or brick ; their form is square, and the whole of the interior is divided into separate apartments ; their walls, which are very high, are usually defended by towers, that they may be secure against the attack of robbers. The houses in Persia are almost all built of mud, and have terraced roofs; their inner apartments are usually better than their external appearance indicates. The smaller villages are in general very rudely constructed, and the common huts have often, instead of a terrace, a dome roof, that is made to avoid the necessity of using wood, which, as has been before stated, is throughout this country a very scarce article. " The more civilized and peaceable classes of the inhabitants of Persia, who dwell in cities, towns and villages, have made considerable progress in both the useful and fine arts ; but it appears from their production, and the accounts we have received from European travellers, that they were as far advanced several centuries ago as they are at this moment. This is not so much to be attributed to the internal distractions of their country, or to their prejudices, as to the form and character of their government. Men who live under a rude despotism can only be happy by reconciling themselves to their actual condition, every effort at im- provement being attended with danger to the individual by whom it is made. If a new branch of commerce is discovered, the gains of those who have embarked in it are likely to be over-estimated, and they become exposed to the cupidity _ of power. If an individual exhibit superior skill as a manufacturer, his labour is liable to be seized by the monarch or by the provincial despot that rules under him, and the promulgation of new principles of science, however just, subjects the person to all the hostility of that formidable class, whose rank in the community is ground- 406 PER ed upon their supposed pre-eminence in knowledge, and who are disposed to treat a serious attack upon their dogmas as a crime that is hardly less than heresy. With these obstacles to prevent the progress of improvement, there is nothing to encourage it. Amid the vicissitudes to which they are liable, few persons look further than to provide for their own welfare. The history of Persia affords numerous instances of men being led, by religious sentiments or a desire of fame, to disburse great sums in charity ; and many, even among the lower classes, who have acquired wealth, have wished to perpetuate their name by building caravanseraies, baths, and other structures of public utility. But they neither profess nor entertain any feelings connected with the general good of their country. All their views are avowedly personal ; and from the character of their government, it is impossible that they can be otherwise. A monarch or a prince may, from the excellence of his disposition or the goodness of his understand- ing, indulge in plans of improvement, but even his views are limited by his condition, and he desires to effect the work of half a century in one or two years. His precipitation produces failure, for that which depends upon system cannot bo effected by power. Besides, all great improvements are gradual, and even when they are introduced, the society must take the shape to which they are suited, or they cannot be permanent." Vegetable productions. — " The surface of the soil of Persia varies from the sandy and unproductive plains on the shores of the Persian Gulf to the rich clayey soil on those of the Caspian, but it almost everywhere requires water to render it fruitful ; and it is from this cause more than any other, that the frequent invasions to which it has been exposed have tended so greatly to diminish the produce and, consequently, to check the population of that country. The destruction of a few water-courses, which have been made with great labor and expense, changes in one season a verdant valley into a desert plain. Few countries can boast of better vegetable productions, or in greater variety, than Persia. Its gardens vie in beauty and luxuriance with any in the universe, and an idea may be formed, from what we observe of those parts of it that are highly cultivated, of the prosperity which that country might attain, under a just and settled government. Some of its finest and most extensive valleys, which are covered with the remains of cities and villages, are consigned as pasture grounds to wandering tribes to feed their cattle and flocks; and, over an extent of a hundred miles once covered with grain, there bow appears only the few scattered fields which are deemed sufficient to furnish with food the families who have the range of the domain, and to give an annual supply of green shoots to fatten their horses. "The plough used in Persia consists of a large piece of wood making an angle with another, which, being sharpened at the end and frequently tipt with iron, forms the ploughshare. It is drawn by two oxen, or some- times by one, and sometimes only by an ass. The number of animals used) however, depends on the consistency of the soil, as in some parts as many as four oxen are used to drag the plough. Besides the plough the Persians have a large rake, which serves as a harrow and is fastened to a pole and drawn like a plough by yoked oxen. They have another im- plement of agriculture, which is certainly capable of much improvement. It is a pole fixed transversely on another to which the oxen are yoked ; 407 PER on each of these is a small wooden cylinder, about half a foot long, and these insignificant things are dragged as a roller over the ground. " AmoQg the products are gum tragacanth, assafoetida, yellow berries, henna (coarser than that of Egypt), madder roots, which grow wild upon the mountains, and are brought down for sale by the Iliats or wander- ing tribes. The Hindus only export it as returns. Indigo is cultivated for the dyeing of linen and of beards, and grows about Shustar, Dizful, and in L^ristan. It is not so fine as the indigo from India, which, indeed, is a great article of the import trade of Persia. They use the leaf only for their beards. There is no cochineal. Cotton is produced enough for the interior consumption of the country. The best manufac- ture which they make is a cotton cloth called the ' kaduk ;' of this there is an exportation to Turkey. The finest is manufactured at Ispahan." Irrigation. — " All cultivation in Persia depends so entirely on irrigation that it will not be out of place to give an account of the famous ' kanats' or aqueducts of that country, which are for the purpose of supplying this want. The extreme dryness of the climate, and the great deficiency of rivers, have obliged the natives to turn all their ingenuity to the discovery of springs and to the bringing of their streams to the surface of the earth. To effect this, when a spring has been discovered, they dig a well until they meet with the water ; and if they find that its quantity is sufficient to repay them for proceeding with the work, they dig a second well so distant from the other as to allow a subterranean communication between both. They then ascertain the nearest line of communication with the level of the plain upon which the water is to be brought into use, and dig a succession of wells with sub- terranean communications between the whole suite of them, until the water at length comes to the surface, when it is conducted by banked-up channels into the fields, or wherever may be its destination. The extent of country through which such streams are sometimes conducted is quite extraordinary ; mouths of wells are to be frequently met with in lonely vallies, and may be traced in different windings into the plain. It is because the water flows through these, invisible of course to the eye, that the historian said, no water is ever seen above the surface of the ground, and the immunities which he mentions the Persians bestowed upon those who brought water to places in which there was none before, evidently show that they were held in the same degree of consequence as at the present day. Such is the local consequence of a new kanat, that the day when the water is brought to its ultimate destination is made a day of rejoicing among the peasants. The astrologers are consulted to name a fortunate hour for the appearance of the stream, and, when it comes forth, it is received by songs and music attended by shouts of joy and exclamations of ' mobgrak bashad,' ' prosperity attend it.' The labor and expense of a kanat of course depends greatly upon the distance whence the water is to be brought. The mode of making the wells is very simple. A shaft is first dug, then a wooden trundle is placed over it, from which is suspended a leather bucket, which is filled with the excavations by a man below and wound up by another above. Where the soil is soft, the mouths of the wells are secured by masonry. This mode of procuring water is common to the whole of Persia, and although a particular and most important object is hereby attained, yet it 408 PER doubtless gives a great advantage to an enemy who, by the destruction of objects so valuable, so defenceless, and so easily destroyed, may in a day injure the work of years, and ruin, perhaps, permanently, the cultivation of a large district." The vegetable produce of Persia may be tabulated as follows : — Fare — Tobacco, fruits, opium, grain, oranges, limes. Kirman — Indigo, henna, dates, pistachio nuts, anise-seed, cotton. Irak — Cotton, rice, gram, fruits, manna, henna, opium. Khorasan — Cotton, grain, ass afcetida, manna, tobacco, dates, gum. Mazandaran — Cotton, sugar, rice, hemp, oranges, timber. Ghilan — Rice, oranges, hemp, timber. Azarbijan — Gram, cotton, fruits. Kirmanshah — Gram, gallnuts. Hamadan — Raisins. Burujard — Fruits. Agriculture. — " The depressed state of agriculture in Persia is, in a great degree, to be attributed to the unsettled nature and disposition of the govern- ment, which affords no protection to private property, and offers no encour- agement to industry. The cultivator of the soil rarely expects to reap the fruits of his labors ; his lands and house are liable to be plundered by the retainers of every petty chief, and he and his family may, in an instant, be deprived of all their little capital and reduced to beggary and want. The most fruitful districts which, under a wise and beneficent sovereign, might reward the toils of the husbandman, have therefore been aban- doned, and now lie waste and uncultivated. The nature of the soil in this great country varies almost as much as the climate : in the southern and eastern provinces it is light and sandy ; in the western and interior parts, hard and gravelly ; and in the northern division, which borders on the Caspian sea, rich and loamy. Rice, wheat and barley are common grains. Cotton, indigo and tobacco are also raised, and no country can exceed this, either in the variety or flavor of its fruits. Apples, pears, cherries, walnuts, peaches, apricots melons, and pomegranates are everywhere to be procured at very low prices ; the quinces of Ispahan are the finest in the east, and no grape is more delicious than that of Shiraz. In the provinces bordering on the Caspian Sea and Mount Caucasus, the air is perfumed with roses and other sweet-scented flowers. Here trees and plants of almost every descrip. tion may be found, but no skillful botanist has ever thoroughly explored these delightful regions. The most common trees in the interior are the mulberry, the sycamore, the walnut, the cypress, the conar (which bears a little fruit resembling a crab apple), and the poplar. There is also a tree common at Khonsar and in the neighbourhood of Ispahan, from which a species of gum or manna is gathered. Amongst the vegetable productions we may enumerate cabbages, cucumbers, turnips, carrots, peas and beans • and the potatoe, which has lately been introduced, thrives remarkably 409 3d PER well. Poppies, from which an excellent opium is extracted, senna, rhubarb, saffron and assafcetida are produced in many parts of thetingdom." Manufactures. — " Many of tbe manufactures of Persia are beautiful, particularly their gold and silver brocades, their silks, and their imitation of Cashmere shawls, which are made of the wool of Kirman. They make a variety of cotton cloths, but not of an equally fine texture as those of India. They have also several manufactories of glass, and some of a coarse ware resembling china ; but their efforts have not yet succeeded in bringing these wares to any perfection. " In mechanical arts the Persians are not inferior to the other nations of the east, but they do not surpass them. They work well in steel, and their swords, though brittle, are of an excellent temper and edge. They also make fire-arms and cast cannon, and would soon rival Euro- peans in this branch of manufacture, if it were possible that a govern- ment so constituted as that under which they live, could give adequate encouragement to men of science and to the ingenuity of its own subjects. In the arts of carving and gilding, few nations are more skilful. They also enamel upon gold and silver in the most beautiful manner, and their ornaments, which are made of these metals and precious stones, often display admirable workmanship." The following"particulars of the manufactures of Persia are extracted from Fraser : — "Although few, if any, of the manufactures of Persia can be of much consequence in* enumerating the exportable commodities of the country, they deserve attention as pointing out the tastes and necessities of the people, which foreign merchants must endeavour to supply. I therefore will give some description of the principal articles fabricated, which, with few exceptions, are chiefly for home consumption. Silk Goods. — "The chief of these are called alijahs, dereis, cussabs, plrahuns, tafetas, and handkerchiefs. The whole of these are made best at Yezd, and those of Ispahan, Kashan, and Tabrez are next in estimation. " The sizes and prices are as follow : — Alijahs and plrahuns are made in pieces of 2 yards, 25 inches long by 25 inches wide, and resemble stout lute strings, but are fully closer in their texture. The wholesale price of those from Yezd is 7 reals (9s. 4 red, brown, blue or green, upon grounds of the same colours to match, sell from 1 to 1£ real (Is. id. to 2s.) each; others of a better texture, spotted or flowered on a black, red, blue, green or brown ground, with borders to match, If yards square, sold for 4| to 5 reals (6s. to 6s. 8d.). A small sort, very coarse and flimsy, checked red, grey, yellow, green, blue or white, £ to f of a yard square, sold as low as half a real. " The cotton goods chiefly manufactured are chintzes or printed cottons, and culumcars, pirahun shahis, kudduks, kherboz, Ispahan stripes, with a few intermediate varieties. " Chintzes and prints are manufactured in many places, but they are coarse, both in texture and pattern, and are only used for inferior purposes. The printed cottons of India and Europe, particularly the latter, had superseded them so much, that the manufacturers were said to have peti- tioned the king to prohibit further importations. A protecting duty was talked of, but if such a measure were even put in practice, a very improbable thing, it would be always and easily eluded. They are largely exported to Russia. " Culumcars are that sort of print, the pattern of which consists of wreathed and consecutive flowers in gay colours, sparsely thrown upon a ground, white, blue, red or fawn colour ; they are used for particular purposes, as inner vests, linings of robes, &c, and are often of high price, according to the beauty of the pattern. " Pirahun shahis (or king's shirts) resemble English long-cloth, which has entirely superseded them. " Kudduks are narrow cloths of a fabric resembling nankeen of all colours, and of a size suited to make a single kabba, for which they are entirely used. They cost from 3 to 6 reals (4«. to 8*.), according to fineness. Those of Ispahan are most esteemed, and are largely exported to Russia. " Stripes of Ispahan, another coarse cloth, striped blue, purple or grey, which cost about 2J reals (3*. 4>d.) a piece, and are taken in great quantities by the Russians. " Kherboz, a coarse white cloth of a loose fabric, varying in quality. It is used by the poorer classes in many articles of clothing, and as lining for the garments of the better sorts. It is made for home-use in every village, and an immense quantity is taken off by the Russians. " The woollen goods of Persia chiefly consist of carpets, namads, felted goods, Kirman shawls, and a variety of fabrics of smaller importance used by the inhabitants as clothing. " Carpets are made in many places. Those of Herat, of Kirman, oa Yezd, of Buriljard, of the Turkomans of Khorasan, of Ispahan, and Azarbljan are all beautiful, though of different fabric and pattern ; and though they are for the most part dear, I think they might answer as an article of trade. " Namads, or fine felt carpets, are sometimes of great beauty, but they are dear and apt to get moth-eaten ; and never having been introduced 411 PER in Europe, there is no saying how they might answer : the supply might be very great. The other felted and woollen articles, being merely for internal consumption, need not be mentioned. "There are few other things that require attention. The arms, cutlery, kalliiins, &c, which form objects of trade among themselves, might doubtless be better supplied by European manufactures. Something of this is done already, but in a trifling way and not lucrative in proportion to the risk. Such branches of trade may, however, increase in time and by attention. One article may be noticed, as it has acquired some celebrity — the wine of Shiraz. This is made in no great quantity and in so careless a manner, that in choosing it not more than one carboy (or large bottle) in four or five can be made use of. There is no such thing as a cask in all Persia ; and as the wine is fermented in comparatively small earthen vessels or glass bottles, some idea may be formed of the various and ill-concocted stuff that is too often produced. " The chief manufactures of this kingdom are gold brocade, silk stuffs cotton cloths of various kinds, leather, shawls of an inferior quality, and the most beautiful carpets. At Shiraz and Maraga are manufactories of glass ; muskets, pistols and carbines are made and mounted in most of the great towns, and the best tempered and most esteemed sword blades are manufactured in Khorasan by the descendants, it is said,, of the celebrated cutlers of Damascus, transported thither by Tamerlane. " The manufactures of Persia may therefore be summarised as follows : — Shiraz : arms, cutlery, glass-ware, ornamented pen-cases, silver and gold pipes, tobacco pipes, cotton cloths, cotton and woollen stockings, and wine. " Kirman — Shawls, namads and felt articles, carpets, matchlocks. "Yezd — Silk goods, cotton cloths, carpets, namads, loaf sugar, shoes, iron-ware, earthen-ware. "Ispahan — Silk goods, velvets, chintzes, cotton cloths, gold and silver brocades, glass-ware, paper, carpets, namads, fine cutlery, arms, bows and arrows, gold and silver kaliuns, ornamented pen-cases, loaf sugar, sweet- meat, shoes and stockings, carpentry. " Kashan — Velvets, silk goods, cotton ditto, gold and silver brocades, copper, household utensils, earthen-ware. " Kasvin — Cotton cloths, namads, stockings, swords, arms. "Khorasan — Swords, fire-arms, stone-ware, namads, woollen cloths cotton goods, sheep-skin pelisses. " Mashad — Velvets, sword blades, armour, dishes, etc., of stone-ware. " Birjan and Ghayn— Namads, felts, woollen fabrics. " Kuchan — Sheep-skin pelisses. " Mazandaran — Silk and woollen goods. " Ghllan — Silk and cotton stuffs, woollens, cutlery, arms. "Tabrez — Velvets, silk stuffs, carpets, namads, woollens, copper utensils, cutlery, arms. " Kirmanshah — Garpets. " Hamadan — Prepared leather, sadlery, shoes. " Burujard — Excellent carpets." 412 PER Trade. — "The export commerce of Persia was estimated by Fraser in 1824, as follows : — India. TUEKET. Bagdad. UzBAKS AND TUKKO- MANS. Aeabia and titb Gulf. Specie. Dried fruits. Tobacco. Grain. Raw Bilk. Tobacco and pipes. Grain. Cotton. Silk. Kirman shawls and woollens. Silk stuffs from Tezd and Ispahan, &c. Wheat. Dates. Dried fruit. Wine. Drugs. Asaafoetida (Hing). Cotton. Lamb-skina. Foxa' skins. Tobacco and pipes. Drugs. Dyes. Gold embroidery from Kashan and Ispahan. Copper-ware, &c, from Kashan. Rose-water. Abbas (A^ab cloaks.) Dates. Carpets. Cotton goods. Cotton goods. Sulphur, Silk manufactures. Silk goods. Arms. Turquoises. Raw silk. Carpeta. Cotton manufactures. Kirman shawls. Salt. Kirman shawls and woollen goods. Cashmere shawls. Leather from Hamadan. Sal-ammoniac. Dried fruits. Kirman shawls, &c. Sheep. Shoes and clothes. Rose-water. Foreign produce. Turquoises. Swords, Cashmere shawls. Sugar, raw, refined, and candy. Some Indian goods. Opium. Combs. Horses. Grey-hounds. Indian goods. Indigo. Coffee. Foreign produce. Sugar. Copper. Saffron. Ialep. Bokhara sheep and lamb -skins. Pearls. - Specie. — " A large portion of the gold and siver which comes into Persia from the westward, in a way which will hereafter be related, still pursuing an easterly direction, is annually sent to India in exchange for the valuable commodities furnished by that country. In the year ending 31st May 1821, the official return of specie thus sent was 34,17,994 new Bombay rupees. The other exports to India are inconsiderable, except in the article of horses, of which sometimes the three presidencies receive a good many. In the above year there appears to have been a considerable shipment of silk to India. I know not if this be common. Silk. — " The quantity of this sent to Bagdad, Constantinople, and their dependencies has already been stated ; it is to be presumed that much of this finds its way to Europe. Cotton. — " Although so bulky a commodity, finds its way even from the shores of the Caspian to those of the Levant. Tobacco. — " Has already been noticed as a considerable article in the Bagdad and Turkey trades. " It is unnecessary to make many remarks on the several items of the trade with Bagdad and Turkey ; it embraces almost every important article of Persian production, either raw or manufactured ; and it is a striking feature in this trade, that so many cumbrous and weightly articles 413 PER should be able to bear such an expensive and distant land carriage ; it is also curious to see one country purchasing for . ready-money from a neighbour, by no means proverbial for its industry, many articles of pro- duce which might as easily be raised at home. Much of the coarser fabrics, both of silk and cotton, must be consumed in the wide provinces of Asia Minor ; and it would be curious to learn what the inhabitants of these countries (known to be poor and oppressed) have to give in return for the gold which they lay out in purchasing these commodities. " It is also interesting to remark the proportion of Indian goods which find their way accross the mighty space which intervenes between that country and Asia Minor. Shawls of Cashmere, spices, indigo, and muslins reach the Bosphorus by this long route, and the lamb-skins of the no less distant Bokhara are thus found in the bazaars of Bagdad and Constantinople. " An intelligent merchant of considerable eminence at Tabrez told me, that if he were about to undertake a speculation to Constantinople, he he would carry with him silk, cotton, tobacco, Cashmere shawls, indigo, coffee, and money. The coffee he would sell at Erzriim, without expecting great profit, to pay the expenses of carriage, customs, and other caravan expenses. " It is needless to make many remarks on the exports to Bokhara ; the trade is not inconsiderable, but it is often interrupted ; the only way in which it could probably affect the trade of Persia and Europe would be by a demand arising for its black lamb-skins, which might be paid for, through the medium of Persian merchants, with European com- modities. I fear it is not a probable event, and that it is not in this way tha£ Bokhara and Samarcand must be supplied with our manufactures. " The imports of Persia from various countries are : — EUEOPE. India. Tueket, Bag- dad, &o. Arabia. Woollens as — Gold lace. Cotton goods as — Specie in gold and Coffee. Broad-cloths, of va- Spangles. Metal buttons. Chintz, Masulipa- silver. Pearls. rious qualities. tam. Sweetmeats (Hul wah) . Pearls. Narrow clotha. Cutlery. Ditto, Mooltan. European manufac- Ladies' ditto. Fire-arms. Ditto, Lucknow, &c. tures brought Cassi meres. Watches. Muslins, a few. from the ports of Bokhara aht> the other Cumblets. Spectacles. Indigo. importation in the Uzbak States Spyinjr-glasses. Spices of all sorts. Levant. Cotton manufactur- Thermometers. Sugar. Black lamb and sheep- skins. ed goods as— Barometers. Sugar-candy. Chintzes. Air-guns. Gold and silver Cumblet, or cloth of ca- Printed cottons. Musical snuff-boxes and stuffs and brocades mel's-hair. Long-cloths. Cambrics. such toys. from Benares. Coarse silk handker- Leather. Precious stones. chiefs. Masiin.s. Earthen-ware. Earthen-ware. Hides (raw). Veils. Glass-ware. Shawls from. Cash- Dried plums (prunes). Lapis lazuli from Ba- Medicines (particularly mere. Silks as — patent.) Iron. dukshan. Velvets, Trunks of various sizes. Lead. Rabies and other pre- cious stones from the Satins. Iron. Copper. Crapes. Copper. same place. French brocades & Tin. Indigo from India. embroidered goods. Shawls, imitation of Quicksilver. Shawls and other Indian Ammonia. produce. Cochineal from Russia. Cashmere. Cochineal. Precious stones and Cream of Tartar. Chintzes and other Euro- jewellery. Enamel. Verdigris. pean articles brought from Russia. China-ware. Tea and a few other Chi- nese goods. 4.14 PER " Persia, i 1 ; is true, is a poor country, and it is but a small part of its population that can afford to indulge in superfluities ; still, its increasing acquaintance with Europe and European commodities has created a desire to possess the conveniences and luxuries which are brought from thence, so that the consumption of them is extensive and con- stantly increasing. The foregoing table affords a list of the principal imports, some of which merits particular attention ; and first, the woollens, which, not only in Persia, but over all the east, have long been admired, and the demand for which is great and increasing : there is little doubt that if due attention were paid to the tastes of the various eastern nations, and if the price of the commodity could be diminished, either by lessening the charges of transportation or reducing the original cost, the consumption would be greatly extended. The colors preferred in Persia are fawns, browns, greens, yellows, purples, scarlets, and light colours in general. Blues and blacks are little used ; and the lighter qualities of cloth, as ladies' cloth, are, I think, most in request. I saw little, if any, of the finest qualities of broad-cloth, that which might be termed second quality, sold by the piece at from 20 to 24 reals (1Z. 6s. 8d. to 11. 12s.) per Persian yard of 39 inches ; the next quality at 16 to 18 reals (11. Is. \d. to 11. 4s.), and so on. All these cloths are much used by those who can afford them, for barounies, oemahs, and such articles of Persian dress, as well as many other purposes of luxury and splendour. " Chintzes and printed cottons are articles that claim particular regard, as by a judicious attention to feeding the market with good and moderately priced goods, and studying to please the tastes of the people, the consump- tion might be rendered very large and important. " The consumption of chintzes and printed goods has at all times been great in Persia ; but a large quantity of the coarser sorts was fabricated in the country, and all those of finer descriptions were imported from Masulipatam, Mooltan, Lucknow, Futtehgurh, Delhi, &c. These have now been in great measure superseded by the English, French, and Ger- man stuffs, introduced from the ports of the Levant, of India, and by way of Russia. " The success of this branch of the trade depends very greatly upon the patterns sent, for fashion in this respect in Persia is to the full as capricious as in Europe, and the inhabitants will reject an excellent article " merely because the pattern does not please them ; while they give an extravagant price for goods of a very inferior description, merely because their gay colors happen to suit their fancy ; for want of attention to this material point, hundreds of chests of printed cottons, sent from Bombay, lie at Shiraz and Ispahan totally unsaleable. " The French and German manufacturers have been much more success- ful than the English in hitting the Persian taste : no doubt, because they took care to have the best information upon the subject ; and every baazar had a full display of their rich and glaring chintzes, while many of our more sober English goods lay neglected on the inner shelves unasked for and unseen. It would not be easy to convey an idea of the kind that would suit the eastern markets, but novelty united with rich and well-blended colors seldom fails to please. For some time before I was in Persia, the long, rich, running patterns, resembling striped shawls, were most approved of, and such chintzes, of moderate quality, would fetch from 5 to 8 reals 415 PER - (6s. 8d. to 1 Os. 8d.) per yard of 39 inches. At the time I was there, these had begun to lose ground, and those patterns which resembled spotted shawls, with larger or smaller pines upon a black, blue, green or yellow ground, had the preference. " Culumcars (as they term it), or those chintzes which have a pattern of light and gaily-colored flowers, wandering over a red, fawn, or light blue ground and of no great fineness, were sold, according to the beauty of the pattern, from 4 to 6 reals (5s. 4rd, pesh-kash. " The maliaat is the hereditary original right of the crown, and consists in produce and money. The king gets in kind one-fifth of the produce of the land, i. e., of wheat, barley, silk, tobacco, indigo, &c, and articles of that description, and one-fifth in money of all the vegetables, fruit, and lesser produce of the earth which the proprietor may sell. Though the proportion be paid in kind, yet it is assessed not by the actual levy of every fifth sheaf, &c, but by an indirect criterion of produce deduced from the number of oxen kept by the landholder, and this part of the revenue is collected accordingly by a corresponding rate imposed upon the growth of the land. Thus, the possessor of 12 oxen is supposed to possess also an extent of land, the cultivation of which may require that number, and is therefore assessed to pay a quantity of corn proportioned to the assumed amount of his gross receipt. " The king collects one-fifth, also in money, on all the vegetables, fruits, and lesser produce of the earth which the proprietor may sell. Formerly these tributes, either in kind or in money, were only one-tenth, but their amount has been doubled by the present king. " The inhabitants of towns pay according to an assessment imposed on the place, and founded on the number of houses which it may contain, and not according to their individual means ; and this levy on any particular town is but a part only of that charged on the district which contains it, thus Ispahan, which for instance has Ktim and Kashan within its administration, is required to furnish a specified sum, of which it pays part and divides the rest among the second-rate towns, which again subdivide their own propor- tions among the villages around, and collect each in their gradations the appointed amount of the tribute, and transfer the whole to the royal treasury. The government requires that the collector of any given district should supply a stated sum, but it permits him likewise to add, as his own profit, whatever he can further exact. Most of these offices are bought and sold. By the amount therefore of the purchase is regulated the rate of oppression. 462 PER The scale descends ; eveiy minor agent is expected to accomplish an appointed task, but is left to choose his own means, and to have no other control but his own conscience. This is the practice, whatever may be the theory, of the administration of the revenue. The sadir is an arbitrary tax, and is the most grievious to the rayat. It admits every species of extortion, and renders the situation of the peasant extremely precarious. This impost is levied on particular occasions, such as the passage of any great man through the country, the local expenses of a district, or on other opportunities which are continuslly recurring, so that the rayat is never certain of respite. It is assessed in the same manner upon the number of oxen which he may keep. Thus, if sheep are wanted, he who keeps one ox is obliged to give a sheep, and so on with every other demand which may be made. " The pesh-kash : this is called indeed a voluntary gift, but it must be offered every year at the festival of the Nourze, and like the regular taxes is required in the same proportion according to the means of the people. " By these taxations the condition of the cultivators is rendered more particularly wretched. On the contrary, the merchants are less oppressed than any class in Persia. The shop-keeper indeed (dokandar) pays tribute ; but the proper merchant (sodagar), a distinct order, pays nothing at all to the state except the duties of the customs, which are comparatively very small, being about one-tenth on the imports ; and as they are not affected by any other imposition, they are the most wealthy part of the community " Landed property in Persia is hereditary, and is known by the name of ' waky. J But, on the delinquency of its proprietor, it may be seized by the king, and is then called ' Zapte Shah/ It remains annexed to the crown until the family are again restored, when the estate, according to the pleasure of the sovereign, may be returned. The king, while he retains such property, generally allows a portion of its produce to the relatives of the former owner, and this allowance is called ' moustemeree/ Besides the f Zapte Shah' there are the ' halisse J or crown lands, that from time immemorial have belonged to the kings of Persia. They are cultivated by tenants who defray all the expenses of cattle, implements of agriculture, &c, and divide the net profits with the king." The following information regarding the revenues of Persia is taken from a report by Mr. Stewart : — " The statement given of the e maliat, 5 or fixed revenues of Persia, being extracted from the duftarkhana of the government, may be considered as very correct. These revenues are derived from two sources, viz., the tax on land, and duties and imports on all kinds of merchandize. " The tax on land probably amounts to two-thirds of the whole. It is of two kinds, on lands that belong to the crown, and on lands that belong to individuals. " The lands that belong to the crown were in former times of a very limited extent, but since the accession of the present family, indeed since the time of Nadar Shah, confiscations have become so frequent, that the royal lands have become very extensive. It is probably chiefly on this account that the value of land is so much depreciated in Persia, the 463 PER usual price not being more than ten years' purchase. Even entails, which are common in Persia, are no security against the rapacity of government. Those who cultivate the royal lands pay one-third of the produce of the crop to government, in cases where the seed is furnished by the cultivators ; but when it is furnished by government, they pay one half and sometimes two-thirds of the amount of the crop. This is at least the case in the province of Fars. «• " Land that belongs to individuals pay according to their nature. If they are watered without labor, they pay twenty per cent, of the produce ; where they are watered by kanats or aqueducts, they pay fifteen per cent. Grounds that cannot be watered, but depend entirely on the rain (as the crops are generally very scanty), pay only ten per cent, of the produce. The above is the case with respect to the wheat, barley, &c, which are reaped in the first autumn harvest called shatvey. " With regard to rice, cotton, gram, water and musk melons, &c, &c, which are reaped in the winter harvest, it is usual for the husbandmen to perform all the labor and to furnish the seed, for which he receives two-thirds of the crop ; and the remaining one-third goes to the proprietor of the land, who becomes entitled to one-half of the crop when the seed is furnished by him. In either case the tax of government is levied on the proprietor. Duties and Imports. — " Are principally levied on the shops which are of two kinds, those that are i;he property of the king, and the other the property of individuals. On the former a rent is paid which is considered as pro- portionate to the gains derived from the shop : the latter pay to govern- ment 20 per cent, of their annual profits. A tax is also levied on all baths and water-mills : also on certain kinds of manufactures, such as oil, glass, and earthernware, these are the sources from which the ' maliaatf or regular revenue is derived ; Besides the ' maliaat' a revenue of a large amount is derived from the following sources, viz. — Presents (Peshkash). — " These are of two kinds : those that from long establish- ed usage have become fixed and permanent, and those of a more casual and uncertain nature them the first ; that of the naoroz or new year is by far the most important. Peshkashes are on that occasion presented to the king by all the governors of provinces and districts, heads of tribes, the ministers, and in short by all persons of high rank in his dominions. The amount of this present cannot be estimated at less than two-fifths of the whole amount of the fixed revenue. The Amin-iil-Daola alone on this occasion generally presents to the king one hundred thousand tomans. " The second is the peshkash made by the merchants who attend the royal camp. " As no taxes are levied upon the bazaars of the camp, the merchants, who are summoned to attend His Majesty when he takes the field, usually present to him a large sum of money. " Thirdly, an annual peshkash of white cloths and cotton ropes sent from the district of Ispahan. " 1st. — Casual peshkashes are presents made by all persons when appointed to situations under government. 464- PER " %%&. — That may be termed involuntary presents made by all persons dismissed from their office, and by persons called up to the court in order to settle their accounts or for some other purposes. " 3rd. — Money extorted from individuals on various pretexts. It is diffi- cult to form a correct notion of the amount of each of these sources of revenue, but I imagine that independent of the ' peshkash' of the nouroza, the amount of all the other presents cannot amount to less than one-fifth of the ' maliaaf, so that I have estimated the whole of the peshkash at three-fifths of the revenue. Sadirs — May be termed fresh or new impositions ; they are of various kinds, and I can only enumerate a few of the most important. A large body of infantry, as well as regulars who are now trained in the European discipline, are furnished, equipped, and paid by the different provinces of the empire.* The number of men furnished in this manner may amount to 25,000, and if we estimate their pay at the low rate of ten tomans annually each manf, this sadir or imposition will amount to two lacks and fifty thousand. "When muskets, &c., matchlocks, &c., are required for the army, they are generally ordered to be furnished gratis by the different districts of the kingdom. Detachments of troops marching through the country receive at every stage provisions. On account of this a deduction ought to be made from the ' maliaaf, but this is seldom done, and the expense becomes a ' sadir' in consequence and is defrayed by the province. " The building of forts and palaces and the repairing of them, the formation of royal gardens and the repairs of aqueducts on the king's lands, are all expenses borne by the province in which these works become necessary. " There are some of the principal ' sadirs' which, by saving the expenditure of the treasury, may be considered as actual revenue, and the amount of which I have estimated at two-fifths of the ' maliaaf, so that the amount of peshkash and ' sadirs' equals the amount of the regular revenues. We must not, however, suppose that this is the whole amount paid by the ryots ; sums are extorted from them which never reach the royal trea- sury, and even the officers who are sent to receive the regular revenues, independent of the five per cent, to which they are entitled, carry with them a train of followers who, under various pretences, contrive to rob and plunder the cultivators or ryots, in so much that in the province of Fars the amount of ' sadirs', or impositions of various descriptions, is at least five times the amount of the regular revenue. In general, the more distant the province is from the capital, the more oppressive these in position are. They cannot however be considered as a part of the revenue. In fact, their ultimate effect is to diminish the revenue, by impoverishing the country to such a degree that it is at least found difficult even to raise the ' maUiaat'." * Most of the cavalry are also furnished and paid by the difFerent provinces, but a deduction to the amount of the expense is made from the amount of the fixed revenue of the province. t This is the rate at which the infantry are paid, that receive their regular pay from govern- ment, the number of which is about fifteen thousand. 465 s t. PER The following statement of the fixed revenues of Persia was made by MacDonald Kinneir, but it is of course not applicable to the present day : — B., Deduct Amount of BE VENUE. Total amount of revenue. AMOUNT OF MOOSTAUAREE, vide BXPLANA- Deduct total amount of moostamaree. Net amount of revenue. AT FOOT. Afshar ... ... j 342 8,350 177 Dummaraud ... 255 540 5,000 Firoz Koh 1,050 343 Souj Bolag ... 2,823 500 324 4,300 Buiujard 16,911 6,800 1,145 4,300 Snorarud 917 3,000 12 8,450 Feoerser Kan . . . 1,511 8,150 47,579 1,890 3,630 6,150 43,948 5,740 Carried forward 6,74,919 615 68,865 2,237 6,06,053 8,378 467 PER Amoukt of Total amount revenue. of revenue. Amount op klOOSIAMABEB. Total amount op MoOBTAMABEE Net amount oe eevenue, 1 is •1 i 1 i .9 a i a o 1 1 m 3 8 o EH t a s g s o n CO 3 R Brought forward Province op Irak.— (contd.) District of Mullayeb. Mullayer Kumerah Gulpaegan ... Gurroog Rehawand ... Murraween ... Tezd 16,776 8,517 2,075 1,871 6,081 691 24,328 7,000 5,730 8,700 8,000 6,74,919 59,341 38,691 96,310 11.62C 615 9,430 3,625 4,200 3,445 124 252 198 478 88 4,198 12,113 185 6,500 5,000 1.30C 5,000 8,000 600 68,865 5,336 8,137 12,298 , 2,237 6,800 3,375 500 1,912 1,91! 6,06,053 54,000 30,424 84,012 11,520 8,378 3,630 250 3,700 3,445 District of Kirmanbhah. Kirmanshah ... ... Luristan Hawiza Shuster ... Hurve Khoda-bandalti Khidmutana, 5 per cent, on revenue 14,836 10,000 2,800 8,293 700 336 1,725 8,000 5,625 Province of Fars, &o. Fare and its dependencies Chab and Vamnoruns ... Rook Gulooea Janaki and Garmaslr Khidmutana, 5 per cent, on revenue 80,621 5,800 3,389 2,300 4,199 5,300 8,'900 The Iliats. The Baktiaris The Khodabandelis The Shah Seven Farsee ... The Unmarloo The Koobaee, deducting 20 tomans Moostamaree Ktailkoor ... Maafee ... Nanakullee ... 3,703 926 2,890 846 2,98( 1! 12( 3; 2,245 4,095 6,425 5.03C 32£ 6.32E * In all the provinces for every to that is levied, one kherwar o levied. The kherwar of grain maunds, and the fixed price, v* in money as it generally is, o toman per kherwar, so that ' kind is equal to that in money, < rotal man in money " grain is also is 100 Tabrez hen it is taken ight to be one he amount in >r ... 8,80,785 8,80,78. 17,61,66 1.31E 1,811 94,697 94,69' 7,86,0S5 7,86,08! 9,403 9,403 Grand T DTAL i 2,63 ) 1,89,39 1 3,82' t 15,72,17 I 8,806 468 PER Amount op BEVBNUB. Total amount of revenue. Deduct Amount of Moostamareb. Deduct total amount of moostamareb Net amount of eevenub. Total malliat, or fixed revenue of Persia, brought forward Estimated amount of annual Pesnkash.es or presents, vide memorandum Estimated annual amount of sadirs, tide memorandum ... 17,61,566 9,43,803 6,28.168 2,630 1.283J 7,522| 33,33,738 1,436 1,89,394 15,72,171 9,43,303 6,28,868 8,806 1,283? 7,522| 1,89,394 3,824 31,44,343 7,612 B. — Moostamarees are the fixed salaries paid by government to different persons in the provinces, such as th e Kazee, the Peshnameh, the Sheik Ul-is-lam-Mustaphies or Moobashers, men of singular piety, &e. &o." The following is another statement of the revenue of the principal provinces of Persia, and will serve to show their comparative value. It is derived from an authentic source, as authentic at least as a Persian authority- can be considered, and contains probably an approximation to the truth. The amount of revenue collected in grain is omitted as being of less interest : — Tomans. " Khorasan net money revenue, after deducting provincial expenses 227,000 Azarbijan ... ... ... ... ... 620,000 Astarabad ... ... ... ... ... 23,000 Mazandaran ... ... ... ... ... 102,000 Ghilan ... ... ... ... ... 238,000 Kirman ... ... ... ... ... 101,000 Isfahan ... ... ... ... ... 332,000 Hamadan ... ... ... ... ... 65,000 Kirmanshah ... ... ... ... ... 79,000 Pars ... ... ... ... ... 403,000 Luristan and Arabistan ... ... ... ... 130,000 Ardelan (Kurdistan) ... ... ... ... 32,000 Yezd ... ... ... ... ... 73,000 Tehran and adjacent districts ... ... ... 122,000 Kasvin, Khemseh, Gerroos, Tarom and Talighan ... ... 132,000 Central Irak, comprehending Kashan, Kum, Gelpaegan, Sava, Melayar, &c. ... ... ... ... ... 312,000 Total ... 2,991,000 " As the culture of land is the main prop of the Persian government, it may not be irrelevant to state in connection with the revenue the manner in which cultivation is conducted, and the relation between landlord and 469 PER tenant. There is no "fixity of tenure" in Persia established by law, though it exists to the fullest extent in the only way it ought to exist — the mutual benefit of the landlord and the tenant, and also by custom, which is nearly equivalent to law. In a thinly -peopled country like Persia, it is the interest of the landlord to conciliate his tenants and perpetuate their residence on his property. A landowner seldom farms his own state; he generally lets it to tenants, or, more strictly speaking, a partnership is established between the latter and the landlord, The conditions of their compact, and the division of the produce, vary according to circumstances and to the capital contributed by each. When the proprietor furnished all the capital, the soil, the seed, the bullocks, ploughs, and water, the gross produce is in general, for there are variations in the different provinces, divided in the following manner : — " Out of 100 shares the government takes 20, and the remaining 80 are divided equally by the landlord and his tenant. In Urumia the landlord takes 10 shares, besides leaving 70 shares for division. When the tenant contributes bullocks and ploughs, as often happens, or seed, which he occa- sionally does, his share is of course large in proportion. " Landlords treat their tenants well, which it is obviously their interest to do. It is from teeool-holders, mohessils, and irregular arbitrary taxation, that the peasantry suffer vexation and extortion. A teeool-holder is a person who receives his salary by an assignment on the assessment of a village. Having no interest in its prosperity, his only care is to exact all he can from the ryots. A mohessil is a tax-gatherer. " The following extracts of a letter, addressed by Shiel to a person of dis- tinction in Persia, exhibits some of the evils of Persian administration : — " Persia was once a great powerful kingdom. Why has it ceased to be so ? With every natural advantage, a fine climate, a fruitful soil, an active and intelligent population, why has Persia not only stood still, but even declined, while other nations are fast increasing in jpower and resources ? I will not quote India, with its immense army, its enormous commerce, its railways, its telegraphs. Turkey, however, is a fair parallel with Persia, from the similarity of manners, religion, and race. A few years ago they were both in the same condition ; but at this moment there is as much difference between the two countries, as there is between Turkey and one of the great powers of Europe. There must be a reason for the decay visible in Persia, and that reason can only be found in bad government, — bad government in civil affairs ; bad government in the affairs of the army. Unless there be security in life and property, if both the one and the other are at the nod of arbitrary power, a nation may exist, but it can never prosper, never advance. " A national reform is a work of time and of gradual amelioration ; but there are some flagrant abuses, the immediate correction of which would be a boon to the people, and greatly strengthen the power of the govern- ment. " The sources of vexation and oppression which touch most nearly the population at large, particularly the peasant class, are perhaps the mohessil (tax-collector) and seoorsat (provisions levied from the people gratuitously). Almost every transaction of the government is performed thorough a mohessil, and every mohessil is a tyrant, an oppressor, in general a thorough ruffian. The Shah eends his mohessil to the governor of the province, the 470 PER latter thereupon despatches his mohessil to the governors of towns and districts, and then finally to each separate village. It is here at its lowest stage that the system works so grievously. The mohessil makes himself lord and master of the village and every one bows down to his caprices. It is true, I know, that the Persian peasant pays his taxes with hesitation, and that compulsion is often necessary to enforce payment. But what is the cause of this reluctance ? He fears if he did not counterfeit poverty and inability to meet the demands made on him, he would be thought rich and become a mark for extortion. Let him but feel secure from arbitrary exaction, and it will be his interest to pay his taxes without delay. "The gratuitous distribution of food, or seoorsat, is another fruitful source of oppression. It is true that some allowance is pretended to be made to the villagers, but it is never adequate, and is no compensation for the violence and oppression which attends the exaction of seoorsat. The above mohessils are among the great offenders, for every one of them must be supplied according to his caprices. But it is a governor or other functionary travelling to his post who is a scourge to the peasantry. " The remedy for all his extortion should come from the Shah's example. When the sovereign travels let him renounce seoorsat, and let him pay for every article he consumes, and force his retinue to do the same. If there should be any exception, it should be only in favour of regiments on the march; though even then the abuse is enormous, and the colonel and officers are the greatest plunderers. "The issue of berats, or government bills, payable in the provinces, which are again made payable in the districts, should cease, because it is a perpetuation of the mohessil system. Berats generally require the despatch of mohessils for the collection of the money, and thence follows the perpe- tuation of that voracious tribe, more destructive to the welfare of Persia than the locusts which afflict it. " The salaries of governors of provinces, towns, and districts, are absurdly large in proportion to the revenue of Persia. The governors of provinces seem to have salaries on the same scale as the Governor General of India. " When governors travel from one part of their province to another, besides the seoorsat already alluded to, the inhabitants suffer enormously from the obligation of making him large presents throughout his progress. With his exorbitant income, why should the people be loaded with this irregular taxation ? " The Shah is a heavy loser from the silly practice of the government functionaries, high and low, keeping in their service a rabble of attendants, and ostentatiously parading about the streets with a crowd of followers. Why should the Sadr Azim appear with a retinue of two or three hundred persons, and every one else in proportion, down to the pettiest Meerza ? This class of persons, besides being *the most dissolute and extortionate in all Persia, are withdrawn from their proper sphere of artisans and peasants. Their payment, too, falls on the people. Their masters seldom give them wages, and they remunerate them by letting them loose on the population as mohessils/'' " The only hereditary title in Persia is Mirza or Meerza, The derivation of which word is from Amir, and zada a son, &c. This species of nobility is traced very far, and is not creative. The title descends to all the sons of the family without exception. In the royal family, it is placed after 471 PER the name instead of before it, thus, Abbas Mirza and Husen All Mirza. Mirza is a civil title, and Khan is a military one. The title of Khan is crea- tive, but not hereditary ; the sons of Khans are called Aga., or Esquire, which is a Tartar title, and more common to Turkey than to Persia. The creation of Khan is attended with few ceremonies, and those very simple. The king sends a kalaat or dress of honor to the person so created, and on his investiture the king gives him a firman announcing to all persons that the bearer of it is forthwith a Khan; and this firman is worn three days on the top of the turban. Any person who derides this patent, or who refuses to call the bearer of it by his title, is liable to the penalty of death. " The title of Mirza does not hinder the possessor from receiving that of Khan also ; and then the name runs, for example, thus, Mirza Hossein Ali Khan. "The different ranks of civil governors are, 1st, the Beglerbeg, who generally resides in the large cities and controls the province around ; 2nd, the Hakim ; and 3rd, the Thaubet, who severally govern a city or a town ; 4th, the Kelounter, who, besides the real governor, resides in every city, town and village, and superintends the collection of the tribute ; 5th, the Ket Khoda, who is the chief of a village ; 6th, the Pak-kar, who is servant or Hommes d'affaires to the Ket Khoda, and who transacts the business with the ray at or peasant. The Pak-kar accounts with the Ket Khoda, and he again with the Kelounter. " The Kelounter is a man of consequence wherever he presides ; he is an officer of the crown, and once a year appears before the royal presence, an honor which is not permitted to the Ket Khoda. He also receives wages from the king's treasury, which the Ket Khoda does not. The Kelounter is the medium through which the wishes and wants of the people are made known to the king : he is their chief and representative on all occasions, and brings forward the complaints of the rayats whenever they feel oppressed. He also knows the riches of every rayat, and his means of rendering the annual tribute : he therefore regulates the quota that every man must pay, and if his seal be not fixed to the documents which the rayat brings forward in the time of the levy, the assessment is not valid and the sun cannot be received. Army. — " The army of Persia comprises a considerable body of irregular horse, furnished by the military tribes of the country and commanded by their own chiefs, a numerous irregular militia, raised and supported by the provinces and principal cities of the empire, and a corps of infantry and artillery, clothed and disciplined in the European manner. " The irregular horse of modern Persia are the same kind of troops which opposed the Romans, and they have preserved not only the habits, but the mode of fighting of their forefathers. As the men are robust and brave, and their horses active and strong, there cannot be a cavalry more suited for all the purposes of predatory warfare. The Persians assert that their monarch can command a body of eighty thousand of this description of troops, who perform military service in return for grants of land and liberty of pasture. Every chief of a tribe is obliged to furnish a quota proportion- ate to the numbers of his followers. Each horseman receives provisions for himself and horse, when employed, and a small annual pay. This class of the army, unless there be a prospect of plunder or their own chief is in 472 PER command, give their services very reluctantly. They are only obliged to attend a few months in the year, and, if not engaged in active hostilities always return home during the winter. " The monarch of Persia has constantly near his person a body of horse, which are termed, as a distinction, his slaves or royal guards. This favorite corps, which at present does not exceed three or four thousand men, is formed promiscuously from Georgian slaves and the sons of the first nobles of Persia. They are well mounted and well armed at the public expense, and their pay is not only better than that of the other troops, but they are employed on every service that is likely to add to their income. " Almost all the population are armed ; and there is a militia in every part of the country, which is equally formed from men of wandering tribes and the inhabitants of cities and villages. The usual duties of this militia are to defend their homes and to aid the police. They are maintained by the province, town, or village to which they belong, and are liable to be called out on any emergency ; but when employed with the army, or in distant garrisons, they receive pay from government. The numl.er of this regis- tered militia is stated to exceed one hundred and fifty thousand men. They provide their own clothing and arms. The former is the common dress of the country to which they belong : the latter usually consist of a match- lock, sabre, and dagger. The militia has no further discipline than that of obeying their own officers ; and neither the men of this class, nor the irregu- lar horse, will submit to be commanded by any but those of their own body, whom they deem their superiors. " Before the reign of Shah Abbas the Great, the only army of Persia was the irregular horse, and the common infantry or militia of the country. That monarch with the desire of opposing the Turkish janizaries, and from a wish to cheek the overgrown power of the Khans, or chiefs of tribes, formed a corps of twelve thousand infantry and a rude park of artillery. He also raised a body of twelve thousand horse, which were commanded by the favourite officers of court. Though the aid of this force of infantry and cavalry, who were indiscriminately formed from men of military tribes and Georgian slaves, and who were entirely dependent upon the monarch, Abbas and his immediate successors were able to keep in check, and ultimately to destroy, the power of the great Khans, or chiefs of military tribes, whose followers had before constituted the whole force of the kingdom, and who were first reduced to thirty thousand men, and ultimately so broken and discouraged, that they ceased to be formidable either to the monarch of the country or his enemies. The spirit and strength of this branch of the army of Persia has been revived by those scenes of turbulence and war with which that country has been afflicted during the last century ; and the army of Aga Mahamad Khan consisted of irregular horse and infantry, a few unwieldy pieces of cannon, and a number of camel swivels ; but Fateh All Shah, with a view of opposing the Russians and of strengthening his internal govern- ment, formed a body of regular infantry and artillery, amounting to twenty thousand men and part of this new body of troops, who were trained by English officers, were clothed, armed, and paid by government, and established on a footing quite distinct from the militia of the country. "There is no subject of such essential importance to any country as the constitutiou of that army which is to preserve its national independence. It appears evident that the military force of a kingdom must be of a 473 3 m PER character congenial with, that of the government, or it cannot be efficient for its defence. A barbarous despotism is always in danger of perishing by the means by which it was created and is supported, and the Very violence which it must use to preserve its existence has the effect of keep- ing its subjects in a rude state ; for they will neither labour to produce that which force may wrest from them, nor abandon any of those defences which their personal habits, their social union, or their local situation afford them as a shield against the violence of tyrannical power. In civilized communities military tribes cannot be allowed to exist, as they are constituted upon principles at variance with such an order of society. In such, therefore, the army of the state is indiscriminately formed from all ranks of its subjects ; and the force of example, and the severity of discipline, supply the want of those habits and sentiments which give energy and force to the warlike inhabitants of a ruder government : but it is one consequence of this condition, that a nation almost entirely intrusts its safety to its army. If that be conquered, it falls ; for the remainder of the people cannot become soldiers in a day, and they are from their occupations and peaceable habits incapable of that irregular but effective resistance, which a po- pulation of a different character continue to offer to invaders long after their armies have been defeated and their cities taken. " It continually occurs that the despotic monarehs of uncivilized countries desire to have all the advantages of those permanent establishments, which give prosperity and strength to a well regulated government, and hope to attain these, particularly a disciplined army, without any sacrifice of their absolute power. These efforts to obtain objects which are incompatible may succeed so far as to add, for the moment, to the internal tranquillity of the country, by checking or subduing the turbulent spirit and ambition of feudatory lords and their warlike follower ; but a total change of the government itself must take place, before the new system of defence can operate further than to paralyze the old. An army cannot possibly be maintained in a state of discipline and efficiency for any length of time, unless its pay be regular and all its equipments complete ; and this can never be the case, except in a state where the succession to the throne is settled, where the great majority of the population are of peaceable habits, and where establishments are permanent, and the laws respected and ad- ministered upon principles which are understood, and not liable to be altered at the will of the sovereign, and those to whom he delegates his authority. That a regular army may be instrumental, by the influence of its example and habits of order, in promoting civilization there can be no doubt ; but this change must coincide with many other reforms, or every effort to render it effectual to the great object of national defence will be abortive and terminate in disappointment. " The reigning monarch of Persia has been disposed to try this system, by an observation of the advantages which the Russians derived from their discipline, and a belief that his subjects, if clothed, armed, and trained in the same manner, would be more equal to a contest with that nation ; and he has probably seen with satisfaction the growth of a force, which is also calculated, from its formation, to increase his power over the more tur- bulent part of his own subjects ; but it is perhaps fortunate for his kingdom, that this plan has not yet proceeded to an extent that can have seriously injured either the feelings or the efficiency of that irregular army, to which 474 PER Persia must (while her government remains unaltered) trust principally for her defence against the attack of any European power. The means which this nation possesses to resist such an attack are far from inconsider- able, but they ■ are of a character which would not be improved by the partial introduction of a new military system. They consist chiefly of natural obstacles, which nothing but a long period of time, and many radical changes, could overcome. The great proportion of the inhabitants of this kingdom must be civilized before they could be subdued. Neither the soil nor the productions of the country are of a nature to invite con- quest, and its internal condition, connected with its relative position to the most warlike and barbarous of all the nations of Asia, would place the European state which attempled that project in a situation of more difficulty and embarrassment on the day that it was apparently accomplish- ed than on that on which it was commenced. " The French first introduced some military system into Persia. When Napoleon the Great resolved to take Persia under his auspices, he despatch- ed several officers of superior intelligence to that country with the mission of General Gardanne in 1808. These gentlemen commenced their opera- tions in the provinces of Azarbijan and Kirmanshah, and it is said with considerable success. English influence becoming supreme, and the French mission having quitted Persia, it was determined to accede to the wishes of the Persian government and continue the same military organization. Sir John Malcolm was accompanied in 1808 by two officers of the Indian army, Major Christie and Lieutenant Lindsay, to whom was confided this duty : they did it well ; Major Christie was a man of considerable military endowments ; he undertook the charge of the infantry, and was killed at his post at the battle of Aslanduz in 1812. His able successor was Major Hart of the Royal Army. Under the auspices and indefatiguable co-oper- tion of Abbas Mirza, heir-apparent to the throne of Persia, by whom . absolute authority was confided to him, he brought the infantry of Azarbijan to a wonderful state of perfection. The artillery was placed under Lieutenant Lindsay, afterwards Major General Sir A. Lindsay. This officer acquired extraordinary influence in the army, and in particular among the artillery. He brought this branch of the forces in Azarbijan to such a pitch of real working perfection, and introduced so complete a system of esprit de corps, that to this day his name is venerated,, and traces of his instruction still survive in the artillery of that province, which even now preserves some degree of efficiency. " After the last Russian war an attempt was made to reform the Persian army and revive its discipline. A detachment of officers and Serjeants was sent for this purpose from the Indian army, besides an officer of the Rifle Brigade with some Serjeants from home. The attempt did not succeed. After aiding in placing Mahamad Shah on the throne, distrust towards these officers took the place of former confidence. Then came the jealousies between England and Persia relative to Afghanistan, next the rupture of relations and the removal of the detachment from Persia, whither it has never returned. The successors to these English officers were a body of French military men, whose efforts were a complete failure, though it cannot be affirmed that the fault is attributed to them. The instruction of the Persian army then fell into the hands of a party of Italian officers, refugees from Naples and Venice, and of a few Hungarian and German officers, 475 PER lent by Austria to the Shah. These gentlemen certainly rendered service within their sphere and to the extent of their influence, both of which are restrained to narrow bounds. " The Persian soldier is active, energetic, and robust, with immense power of enduring fatigue, privation, and exposure. He is full of intelligence and seems to have a natural aptitude for a military life. Half-clothed, half-fed, and not even half-paid, he will make marches of 24 miles day after day, and when need be he will extend them to 40 miles. He bears cold and heat with equal fortitude, but in the latter case, without abundance of water, he is soon overcome. Unlike a sombre apathetic Osmanli, who, brave as he is, hates the regular military service, the Persian soldier is full of life and cheerfulness. Somewhat addicted to turbulence, he nevertheless always displayed the most complete submission to his English commanders, for whom he has ever had a special veneration. A most determined marauder, he some- times enlists in the hope of plunder ; this occurs particularly in Azarbijan. It is curious to see him returning from a campaign himself and his faithful ass loaded with all sorts of household furniture, which they have brought perhaps from a distance of a thousand miles. " The unfortunate soldiers are enlisted for life, and generally by compulsion. They are drawn almost entirely from the wandering Iliats of Turk and Lek tribes, and from the ordinary peasantry. The Iliats have the reputa- tion of being the best soldiers though not quite deservedly. The best regiments are those composed of the above classes indiscriminately. A pernicious habit exists in Persia of organizing regiments in tribes, by which means clannish feelings have been nurtured, and in such cases, collisions between rival septs and regiments require to be guarded against. " As before said, the flower of the Persian army is drawn from Azarbijan. Less compulsion is necessary to obtain recruits in that province than in any other part of the kingdom. The Iliats of Kirmanshah have also a high reputation, and, above all, the regiments from the two famous Lek tribes of Kelhor and Guran, which were at one time commanded by Sir Henry Rawlinson. I have seldom seen finer-looking soldiers than those of Kelhor. " As the Persian soldier is good, so the officers are the reverse. Excepting those of the artillery, and the few now remaining who have undergone English instruction, they are worthless. Favor and bribery are the groundwork of promotion. A person who has passed 40 or 50 years of life in pursuits wholly unmilitary is suddenly metamorphosed into a full colonel or brigadier, occasionally into a general, or even into a commander-in- chief. The other ranks are filled in much the same manner. In the tribe regiments the position in the clan established the rank in the regiment. " The artillery amounts to about 6,000 men, of whom nearly half are from Azarbijan. The last-named body is incomparably the best corps in the service, still preserving the traces of Lindsay sahib. They are soldierly, active, workmanlike fellows, who take their guns anywhere. They are all mounted, it being the practice to station upwards of 30 men to each gun, who are to defend as well as fight it. I remember on one occasion seeing 30 guns moving out of camp on some expedition, accompanied by a battalion of 800 men. A Russian general looking on expressed his amazement that so many pieces of artillery should have so few infantry for their defence. He was not aware that, in Persia, it is artillery that is expected to defend the infantry. 476 PER " It is to the English nation that the Persian government is indebted for all its materials of war. Under the instruction of English artificers, a foundry was established at Tabrez, where guns and shot of every descrip- tion were cast, gun carriages were built, musket ammunition prepared, harness worked ; and outside the town an efficient powder-mill was con- structed, where good service powder is manufactured at the cost of 4 a H Names of Places. a C3 '•B a i— i s CO s u h S3 S m ■3 O a" be s m ■rf 3 GO a> a 3 § 1 d i 1 03 o to o M ta I a o T. M. T. M. T.M. Boxes. T. M. T. M. T. M. T. M. T. M. T. M. From Bombay andBtishahr... 700,000 6,000 200 8,000 30,000 6,000 1,600 15,000 1,000 800 „ Ispahan „ Yezd „ Kashan „ Tehran „ Khorasan ... „ Tabrez „ Khisht and Kazerun... „ Jahriim „ Neurlz » ^ ar „ Kirmaa „ Bavanat ... „ Bebahan Total 7(10,000 5,000 200 8,000 30,000 6,000 1,500 15,000 1,000 600 To Bushahr and Bombay ... „ Ispahan 300,000 3,000 60 4,000 16,000 3,000 500 8,000 600 200 „ Yezd 200,000 600 2,000 10,000 1,600 500 3,000 260 100 „ Kashan 100,000 600 1,000 3,000 1,000 200 1,000 100 100 „ Khorasan „ Tabrez 100 100 „ Kazerun and Khisht „ Jahrfim „ Nlriz ,, Lar „ Bavant „ Bebahan Total 1 6011.000 -1,01:0 60 7,"00 28,000 6,500 1,300 12,100 850 500 558 SHI Exports of Shiraz are extracted from Colonel Pelly's report : — 1 1 M EH 1 o u '3 o ex O o DQ % & e3 CD O o u a a M -a GQ o es i C3 s i 3 a o HH Iron-wire. Copper. a Mercury. Boxes. 2,000 T.M. 400. T.M. 1,000 Bundles. 1,000 T.M. 100 T.M. 300 T.M. 300 Boxes. 600 500 Boxes. 60 60 T. M. 78,000 T. M. 3,000 T.M. 60,000 500 600 1,000 T. M. 12,000 T. M. 200 2,000 400 1,000 1,000 100 300 300 100 78,000 3,000 1,600 600 62,100 12,000 200 1,000 300 200 200 100 100 SO 60 300 500 250 100 100 500 250 50 30 30 20 50 80 50 100 150 50 20 300 100 30 30 10 5 6 34,000 10,000 30,000 1,000 1,000 1,500 600 700 600 6,000 1,000 100 30 30 1,700 950 800 80 280 220 430 50 44,000 2,000 35,200 7,000 160 559 SHI Names of Places. From Bombay and Bushahr. „ Ispahan ... „ Tezd „ Kashan ... „ Tehran H Khorasan ... „ Tabrez „ KhishtandKazerun.. „ Jahrum ... „ Neyrlz „ Lar „ Kirman ... „ Bavanat ... „ Bebahan ... Total To Bushahr and Bombay „ Ispahan „ Tezd „ Kashan „ Khorasan „ Tabrez „ Kazerun and Khisht „ Jahrum „ Neyriz „ Lar „ Barant ., Bebahan CO TOTAL Pieces. 600 CO Pieces. 45,660 17,600 20,450 5,300 1,650 12,000 104,860 61,750 6,300 600 600 1,000 69,400 Pieces. 100 5,100 2,600 125 300 125 Pieces. 50 i 6 & 600 150 30 Boxes. 100 Boxes. Bundles. 60 10 300 100 105 Pieces. 250 Boxes 420 T. M. 670 18 144 240 200 30 20,000 4,000 24,670 640 560 SHI in i § 'o s 00 § "o O ■d 0> 0? T3 P 'a s a O a o CO V 'is CO so d< DO 8 es & g % 13 § a a GO O 3 ft 1=1 H a '& A •\ to 5 miles in circumference measuring round the walls, but including its gardens and suburbs it is 10 miles round, and cannot, says - "Wagner, cover less surface of ground than Vienna or Berlin. The city is surrounded by a double wall, built of sun-burnt brick and a deep ditch, both of which are in a very dilapidated condition, and daily falling into worse decay. At irregular distances from each other are towers of kiln-burnt bricks, to which an attempt has been made to give the shape of bastions. The wall is full of breaches, and the curtains of both are turreted and loopholed. The city is divided into eight quarters, each of which has a gate of the same name. " The appearance of the mud walls of Tabrez arising out of and surround- ed by ruins ; the prison-like houses which seldom exceed one story, without a decent looking window to enliven them ; the inelegantly shaped domes, without a single Turkish minaret to relieve them ; all exhibit a most monotonous effect, and combine in a general coup d'ail to impress the /> traveller with a very mean opinion of this city." The buildings at Tabrez are far less striking than might have been expected in so famous a city. Close to the gate from which one passes to the Tehran road is a fine ruin, called the Kabud Masjid, or "blue /mosque." It is about 300 years old, and the blue tiles from which it gets its name are beautifully arabesqued. The ark is a noble building .^of burnt brick, but the walls are cracked in many places by earthquakes. There is a tower in the ark about seventy feet high, from which, it is said, unfaithful ladies used to be thrown. The streets of the city are generally narrow and always unpleasant in dry weather from the quantity of dust, and in wet from the deep mud. Eastwick describes them as narrow lanes, filled with holes, pits, ditches and filth, and adds the houses are of mud, many of them reduced by the late rains to ruinous heaps ; and there is a close, dark, and dirty bazaar, roofed over with sticks, with mangy miserable dogs, and more miserable mendicants prowl- ing about. 574 TAB The houses of Tabrez are usually of one story only, built round courts, into which all the windows look. The city, therefore, that part occupied by bazaars and shops excepted, offers the appearance of a labyrinth of unpaved lanes, full of holes, usually intersected by gutters, with mud walls on each side, varied only by narrow doors, and the arched brick gateways of larger mansions. There are 12 public baths in Tabrez, some of which are handsome. There are, however, no public buildings of any note, at present at Tabrez, and few are the remains of those described by former travel- lers. Indications of the great maidan are still to be observed, and the bazaar Kaisaria is still known, but a wooden roof has been substituted for its former arched one. The Ark All Shah (the citadel of All Shah) is the most interesting structure at present in Tabrez, principally because it contains a arsenal. This building comprehends within its limits the remains of a mosque (a mass of brick work as fine, perhaps, as any in the world) about eighty feet in height, at the top of which three small chambers have been constructed, whence the town and the surrounding country are seen as if laid out on a chart. The danger of earthquakes has taught the inhabitants of Tabrez to build their houses as low as possible, and to employ more wood than brick and plaster in their construction. For the same reason the bazaars have only wooden roofs, and are not arched as those in other Persian cities. The bazaars are about the same size as those of Tehran, but neither so well built nor so regular. Adjoining them are two fine caravanserais, one constructed by Haji Syad Husen, a merchant, and another by his son-in-law, Haji Shekh Kaslm. There is also another not far distant, the Fateh All Beg caravanserai, which is tenanted by Georgian merchants, and is usually called the Georgian serai. These are the best in the city. The British Consulate at Tabrez is a spacious residence, with some fifteen rooms, all on the same floor, for there is no second story, and with stabling for thirty- two horses. There are, as in all Persian houses of mark, an outer and an inner court, with a smiling garden, and a few fine trees in each. The population of Tabrez is variously estimated by Holmes at 120,000 souls, by Shiel at 100,000, by "Wagner at 140,000 living in 16,000 houses, and by the Imperial Gazeteer at 80,000. Water is scarce in Tabrez, and the supply of the different parts of the town is in the hands of private individuals, who at their own expense have con- structed aqueducts from springs at some distance for the supply of the town. They sell it for about two tomans per annum per ' luleh', stream of about thickness of a man's finger which the buyer opens from the main channel when he has occasion for it. He may purchase as many (lulehs) as he likes, and regulate the size of his pipe accordingly. It is difficult, however, to say what is the average payment for water, as it depends on a multitude of circumstances, the dryness of the season, the quantity required, and the agreement with the owner. The value is continually fluctuating, each buyer obtains his supply from the side of the main stream, and, if pay- ment is in any case withheld, the water is cut off from the whole street, much to the inconvenience and annoyance of those who do pay; though this seldom happens, as it is every man's interest not only to be punctual himself, but also to see that his neighbour is so. It is, however, a never- failing source of dispute, each party endeavouring to defraud the other as much as possible. 575 TAB Tabrez is the emporium from which Persia is supplied with European - goods. The returns are made partly in specie and partly in produce and native manufactures :— From Ispahan — tobacco and dyed calicoes are sent. From Shfraz — tobacco and hennah. From Yezd — dyed calicoes and other manufactures. From Tehran — specie. From Resht — silk. From Mazandaran — rice and a little sugar. From Kurdistan — gallnuts and furs (fox and otter) . From Khorasan — carpets and pipesticks. From tTrumia — tobacco. From Kirman — shawls. And also dried fruits from all parts of Persia. Of these various articles, large quantities are exported to Georgia and also to Constantinople, a considerable portion being in transit for Europe. The import trade in European goods has increased considerably during late years, but there now being a greater supply and more competition than formerly, it is by no means so profitable either to the importer or native purchaser. It is difficult to state accurately the amount of British goods annually imported, as opinions and accounts vary materially, those from Tarabizfin making it about 30,000 packages, and those derived from the custom-house and other sources at Tabrez only, giving about half that num- ber. As there is no reason, however, to doubt the accuracy of the state- ment from TarabizQn, where the number of packages brought by each vessel for Persia is carefully noted, and where no one has any object in giv- ing a false account, it is probably worthy of more credit than that from Tabrez, where the custom-house officers and almost every source from which the information is obtained, are interested in lessening the apparent amount. The customs are farmed, and did the grand customer allow the amount of goods passing through to appear such as to leave him a large profit, he would be outbidden by a competitor the following year, and there- fore takes care to make out his returns in such a manner as to show little or no balance in his favor. Some portion of the packages forwarded to Persia from Tarabizun certainly never reach Tabrez, but are consumed at Khoi, and perhaps smuggled into Georgia; but by no means a sufficient quantity to account for a deficit of one-half. Besides British manufactures, a small quantity of German goods are included in this number of packages, chiefly broadcloth, English cloth being too expensive ; also some tea, sugar, glass, hardware and earthenware. In proportion as the trade in British goods has increased, that in native manufactures has fallen off. Formerly a large quantity of prints were manufactured in the vicinity of Tabrez and other parts of Persia, the designs being executed both on cloth of the country and English calicoes brought for the purpose ; but nearly all these designs having been imitated in Eng- land, the Persians can now get a cheaper article than they can make them- selves. The native prints and dyed calicoes, however, continue to be manu- factured in a more limited quantity for the supply of the Georgian market, where the importation of British goods is strictly prohibited by the Russian government. 576 TAB The dyed native calico from Ispahan, Yezd, is more durable, though dearer, than the English manufacture. In 1845 there were established at Tabrez three Greek commercial houses, and they have ere this been followed by others. They were gradually driving the Persian merchant from the trade, as he, purchasing his goods at Constantinople, found it difficult to compete with those who import directly from England the choicest assort- ments bought by their partners in Manchester on the most favorable terms in every respect. The Georgians also, who formerly imported a large quan- tity of goods from Germany, have been obliged to retire in consequence of their heavy losses, and their business does not probably now exceed 500 packages annually : thus it is expected that the Greeks will soon monopolise the whole trade. Owing to its commerce and the extreme healthiness of the climate, Tabrez is now the most flourishing town in Persia, and is yearly increasing in size. The value of land for building within the walls, which was formerly at 70 tomans per maun (or measure of 1,250 square yards), has risen to 100 tomans. That outside for gardens, where there is water, sells for from 8 to 10 tomans near the walls, where it is dearest, and the ground for building costs from 4 tomans to 15 keras according to its situation. The amount of European goods imported into Tabrez was, in 1844-45, £703,204, and the exports for the same year £369,057. Wagner gives some interesting particulars of the wares for sale in the bazaars of Tabrez : " The first thing that struck me in the bazaar was the immense ac- cumulation of European goods compared with those of Asiatic manufacture. More than three-fourths of the contents of the shops proceed from Europe, and chiefly from England. The best cottons and cutlery were evidently British, whilst the coarser kinds came from Germany and Russia. Almost all the finer glassware, especially used for narghiles, and expressly adorned with fanciful designs, were of Austrian manufacture. The amber used for the mouth-pieces of ' tchibouks ' throughout Asia, comes chiefly from the Baltic provinces of Prussia, but it is prepared for circulation at Constan- tinople. Some Bohemian glass blowers at Stamboul raised a formidable competition to this trade, by making yellow glass mouth-pieces that were mistaken for amber. But their consumption was confined to the poorer classes. " The poorest articles on sale came from Bohemia, Saxony, and Russia. I saw a considerable quantity of Nuremberg toys, including watches with representations of locomotives and German inscriptions. Even the litho- graphs of Mahamad Shah, then ruler of Persia, had a German legend. On many coarsely made boxes coming from Astrakan might be seen uncouth likenesses of the Emperor Nicholas. Even the portraits of Benkendorf, Paskiewitsch, and other Russian Generals were offered for sale in Armenian shops. Almost all the leather and coarse cloths came from Russia, and the best sugar (here in great request) from England. " Amongst the most beautiful and elegant Asiatic goods, the handsomest were from Hindustan, including shawls, carpets, and counterpanes. The shawls of less delicate texture, whose splendid colors betray the celebrated Persian taste for beautiful tints and elegant designs, proceed for the most part from the southern provinces of Persia. Of all the eastern provinces, ShTraz yields the most solid articles, including, especially, sword blades of remarkable beauty and very high price. 577 4 a TAB The workshops are more interesting than the show-rooms. All trades are carried on in this bazaar, from the coarsest to the finest. It is usual for kindred trades to associate together, and this regulation seems neces- sary, because some branches could not be carried on near the noisy trades, such as copper-mongers. Neverthless, the continual cries, the buzz of conversation from the numerous groups, and the constant movement, create a perpetual and considerable tumult. I admired particularly the great precision and wonderful strength displayed by the smiths in their strokes. . — " Tabrez is celebrated as one of the most healthy cities in Persia, and it is on this ground alone that we can account for its being so often re-built, after its repeated demolition by earthquakes. It is seldom free, even for a twelve month, from slight shocks. The salubrity of this town is the more susprising from the great extremes of heat and cold to which it is subject. General Malcolm when there obtained from a friend, who had resided there during a whole year, a most accurate diary of the various changes of its climate. From this it appears that ' on the 1 2th of October there was a heavy fall of snow, which did not, however, remain long upon the ground ; the weather again became mild, and there was no excessive cold until the middle of December, from which period till the end of January, Fahrenheit's thermometer, when exposed to the air at night, never rose above zero, and in the house, at mid-day, it was seldom above 18°. " January was by far the coldest month, during which the water is described as becoming almost instantaneously solid in the tumblers upon the dining table, and the ink often freezing in the inkstand, although the table was quite close to the fire. For at least a fortnight not an egg was to be had, all being split by the cold. Some bottles of wine froze, although covered with straw, and many of the copper ewers were split by the expansion of the water when frozen in them. " Of the heat that ensued, and the sudden and great changes to which Tabrez is subject, we had abundant proof; in the month of June the range of the thermometer being usually, within the twenty-four hours, 56° to 94°, — a difference of 38°." Fraser also remarks of the climate of Tabrez : — " Were I, " he says," to select a spot the best calculated for the recovery - of health, or for its preservation, I know not that I could hit upon any more suited to the purpose than Tabrez at this season, or indeed at any season. A brighter sky and purer air than those which the inhabitants of this town and its environs breathe and live under can scarcely be found. To me it seems as if there truly was ' health in the breeze' that blows around me. In fact, the occasional excess of this breeze is about the only drawback here to comfort, so far as atmospheric influence is concerned, for the temperature is delightful. The sun would be hot during the middle part of the day, but that this breeze cools his ardours effectually ; and we must forgive the clouds of dust which it raises, even though they blind and choke the unfortunates whom business forces to go out during the prevalence of the gale. " During the months of June, July, and August, the heat in the town itself is no doubt considerable ; but September relieves the inhabitants in part, and October, at times, is actually cold. Both heat and cold are dry and wholesome, quite unlike the stifling alternations which render Tehran and 578 TAB its environs so unhealthy in summer, and the evenings and mornings are at all times heavenly. " The inhabitants of Tabrez, too, are blessed with the means of change of air more than most cities; its neighbourhood abounds in delightful mountain abodes, where assuredly the air is of an unrivalled freshness" and purity. About twenty-five miles southward in the mountains of Sahand, there is a village called Llwan, which gives its name to a pleasant , valley iu which runs a fine clear mountain stream. Perhaps not the least recommendation of this retreat is the fine trout with which this stream is tolerably stored, and which afford both pleasant pastime and food to those who seek its banks ; and hither do the English residents often repair and pitch their tents in a climate as cool and bracing as that of the mountains of Scotland or of Wales. Then in another direction there is the Chaman, or natural pasture of Ujan, where the royal camp was wont to be pitched, and where the brood mares of the prince are now kept ; and there is Sarab, an elevated tract on the road to Ardebll, with its fine trout stream, and the noble highland districts of Khalkhal and Miskin, if you wish to go further afield. In short, I look upon Tabrez to be the best situated, as it is in point of fact the first of Persian cities." The suburbs and gardens of Tabrez extend some miles round the city, and contain nearly as large a population, and in the spring, the latter appear- ing like one sheet of blossoms, have a most refreshing appearance. They produce almonds, apricots, apples, pears, peaches, grapes, and some other fruits. It is considered a good investment of money at Tabrez to buy a garden into which the purchaser sends gardeners in the spring to prune the vines and other trees, and put the place in order; and then sells the expected produce for a certain sum, leaving the trouble of gathering and the chance of failure to the buyer. In general, it answers well for both parties ; the owner getting a high percentage for capital invested in it, and the buyer making a good profit on the fruit. Near the town, and along the foot of the hills, are several flourishing villages, and the land, being irrigated by numerous rivulets, is rendered fertile ; but the greater part of the plain is devoid of water, and is of a barren and sandy soil, so strongly impregnated with salt as to be almost incapable of cultivation. The city is visible, on the Arzrum road, from the village of Shebister, a distance of 36 miles, and its extensive suburbs and gardens give it from thence the appearance of a dark patch of forest, or the shadow of a cloud. The citadel is at the south-west extremity of the city, is separated from \t by a wall, and is rather more regularly fortified towards the country. It contains a very high brick building, constructed by All Shah. One side, which is immensely thick and projects in a semi-circle towards the west, alone remains entire. There is an extensive view from the summit; the peninsula in the Lake of Urumia is visible ; the town and its gardens with the extraordinary shaped and colored mountains by which they are almost encircled form a striking coup d eel. In the streets and bazaars of Tabrez, Turkish is the only language which strikes the ear. Turkish is so com- pletely the colloquial language of Azarbijan that, excepting in towns, and even there only among the better classes, Persian is not understood. Tabrez, the ancient Tauris, was probably an old city when it became the- capital of Tiridates III., King of Armenia, in A. D. 297. Little, however, is 579 TAB known about it till A. D. 791, when Zobedah, wife of Haran'r Rashhid, the fifth Kaliph of the house of Abbas, beautified it so much as to obain the credit of having been its founder. She is said to have called it Tabrez, " fever seat- Bering," from the salubrity of the climate, but this is doutless a mere legend. In A. D. 858 in the reign of Motavakkel, the tenth Abbaside Kaliph, the city was almost destroyed by an earthquake. In A. D. 1 041, Tabrez was again levelled by an earthquake, and only those of the inhabitants escaped who had listened to the warning voice of Abu Tahir, the astronomer of Shlraz, who, being at Tabrez, foretold the danger. In 1392 Timur took and sacked Tabrez, its then prince, Sultan Ahmad Ilkhani, flying at the approach of the great conqueror. After the decline of the house of Timur in the beginning of the fifteenth century, Tabrez fell under the sway of the Turkman princes of Van, and Kara Yusaf, one of that dynasty, died at a village close to the city in 1420. In 1500, Ismail, the first of the Safavi kings, took Tabrez from the Turkmans ; but it remained under Persia only till 1522, when Suliman, the Sultan of Constantinople, made himself master of it, expelling Shah Tahmasp, who then made Kazvin his capital. Again it was abandoned by the Turks, and again recovered in 1584 by Murad- bin-Selim, or Amurath III., but won back to Persia by Abbas the Great in 1618, after his sanguinary victory at Shibli, in which the Pashas of Van and Arzrum, and flower of the Turkish army, fell. In 1721 Tabrez was again in great part destroyed by an earthquake, and, according to one writer, 80,000 persons perished. To add to this misery, the inhabitants were attacked by the Turks under the Pasha of Van, and 4,000 of the enemy effected a lodgment in the city, but, after a desperate struggle, were all put to the sword; nor was it till 1725 that the town was surrendered, after 20,000 Turks had fallen in battle before it. But the Sultan had scant enjoyment of his new conquest, for in 1730 the invincible Nadar came, saw and conquered. Since its conquest by Nadar Shah, Tabrez remained in the hands of the Persians till it was taken by the Russians under Paskivitz. "It had", says — Monteith, " always been celebrated for its patriotism and for the courage with which it had defended itself against the Turks and other enemies. The works, though not strong, had at this time been put in a state of defence, and consisted ot a double wall and deep ditch, and there was also the reserved park of field artillery and gunners enough to man them ; it was therefore perfectly capable of resisting everything but a regular siege. " And the gardens by which it is surrounded afforded a position very favor- able for opposing the advance of regular troops, and it is doubtful whether the whole of Prince Paskivitz's army would have been able to force their way to the town if the governor had been an able man. But this unfortunately was not the case. The command of the place had been entrusted to Ah Yar Khan, a Kajar nobleman unknown to the people or army of Azarbijan, and remark- able only for excessive vanity and pride. He was arrested and delivered up to the Russians, who at once seized on the citadel, which is situated at the southern side of the town, and is admirably adapted to keep the city in subjection. Besides this, a number of the captured guns were kept constant- ly pointed by the Russians upon the town ; and a general disarming of the people took place, who were bewildered at the step they had taken. General Paskivitz himself soon arrived, and on the day after his entrance held a general review of his army, consisting of twelve battalions of infantry, 7,000; 580 TAB— TAK two battalions of guards, 1,200; one regiment of dragoons, 600; three regi- ments of Uhlans, 1,200; 2,000 Cossacks, irregular cavalry, Georgians and Mahammadans, 2,000; artillery, 52 pieces; gunners, 1,000, to which were immediately added a number of the Persian guns, all of them excellent, and either of English manufacture or cast after the English model." (Kinneir — Ouseley — Malcolm — Chesney — Morier — Eraser — Mignon — Holmes — Wagner — Fowler — Eastwich — Imperial-Gazetteer.) TAEMUMS— A tribe who inhabit the district of Khaf in Persia. They are a branch of the Eimak tribe of the same name in Afghanistan. [Petty.) TAET— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Yezd district, Persia, 12 miles from Yezd, west-south-west on the road to Shlraz, from which it is 177 miles distant. It is a very large village, containing from 1,400 to 1,500 houses, and is situated at the foot of a range of hills in a broad valley. This is a great place for the manu- facture of felt carpets, there being no less than 30 factories in it. There is a fortaliee here, and the village is embosomed in gardens. Supplies are to be had in small quantities, and also water from springs. [K. Abbott- Jones.) TAGATU— See Jaffhatu. TAJARRUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, on the road from Herat to Yezd, and 70 miles from Khaf to the south-west. It is described as " a compact village among hills." [Christie.) TAJKOH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Laristan, Persia, 36 miles on the road from Bandar Abbas to Shlraz, from which it is 170 miles distant. It has some date groves and a few gardens; water is procurable from springs. [Jones.) TAJRtTD— A river of Persia, which rises in the plain of Shahr-i-zor, and joining with the Salm, falls into the Ab-i-Shirvan in the plain of Semiram. [Chesney.) TAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, on the road between Shahrud and Damgan, 35 miles from the former and 8 from the latter. It has a small fort, and stands on a spacious plain which is celebrated as the scene of a victory gained by Nadar Shah over the Afghans under Ashraff. [Forster.) TAKHT-I-JAMSHID— See Persepolis. TAKHT-I-JAMSHID— Elev. A remarkable hill 10 miles from Yezd, Persia. Its sides are abrupt and the summit level. [K. Abbott.) TAKHT-I-KAI-KAUS— Elev. A hill at the village of Pitkinah, near Tehran, on the KasvTn road. It is conical, and on its top are the vestiges of some buildings. [Morier.) TAKHT-I-KAJAR— A palace near Shiraz, Ears, Persia, about one-fourth of a mile north. [Ouseley.) TAKHT-I-KHUSHKOH— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Kirman, Persia, 39 miles from Bandar Abbas, and 321 miles from Kirman, on the road between them. It has 1,500 houses and extensive date plantations. [Smith.) 581 TAK— TAL TAKHT-I-SULIMIN— Euins in the province of Azarbijan, Persia, near the head-waters of the Jagatu. These ruins, which are of considerable interest to the antiquary, will be found fully described in Major Rawlinson's paper in volume 10 of the Journal of the Geographical Society. (Rawlinson.) TAKHT-I-StJLIMAN— A mound in Fars, Persia, near the village of Murgab, on the road from Persepolis to Ispahan. It is noticeable on account of the ruins of buildings coeval with those of Persepolis. (Kinneir.) TAK-I-GIRRAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Kirmanshah, Persia, on the road from Zohab to Kirmanshah. It is on the great thoroughfare between Baghdad and Kirmanshah. The ascent from the north-west side commences about %\ miles from the Khan of Sar- Pul-i-Zohab, and is rather laborious over a zigzag and very rough road formed of loose masses of fallen rock and large boulders of stone like gigantic pebbles. The elevation of the road may be about 2°, and in its present state is certainly ill adapted for the passage of either troops or artillery. A little labor and expense would, however, place it in an efficient state. The ascent" of the most difficult part of the pass occupies exactly an hour from the Bishiweh plain. Half way up the pass stands a venerable arch of white marble, from which its name Tak-i-Girrah. It is no doubt of very great antiquity, but bears neither inscription nor design. Quitting the short angular turns which the road takes on the ascent of the pass, it enters the narrow defile or gorge which severs the higher range of mount Zagros from the lofty crest of the Band-i-Noah chain. This chain is the most westerly of the Persian mountains, and forms the great barrier between the alluvial plains of Assyria, east of the Tigris, now termed Irak Arabia, and the mountainous districts of Persia. The scenery at this point becomes very grand : on either hand the dark foliage of the oak, overspreading the sides and summits of the mountains, is here and there relieved by a bare abutting crag. The road continues to ascend through the gorge in a general direction of 130°, until it arrives at the village and Khan of Surkhi-deyr, whence it proceeds over a veiy rough road, and so narrow at times that caravans are compelled to proceed in single file. In two hours it arrives at the ruins of the old fort of Sar-mil, anciently called Tur. From Surkhi-deyr to this place the general bearing is 135°. Thence to Kierind is over a plain. [Rawlinson — Jones.) TALAK— A tributary of the Karun river in Khuzistan, Persia, which rises near Koh- Kehnu and traversing Tang-Bu-Hamid, runs near the fort of Diz Malakan, and joins the Karun at Zovriid. It is always fordable unless swollen by rains, when it becomes a most impetuous and dangerous torrent. (Layard.) TALAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Mazandarin, Persia. It is crossed by the Pul-i-Sufed, on the road to Sari. About 12 miles from Zorab the Talar loses its beauty and expands into a broad river with shingly islands in its bed. (Stuart.) TALIGUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A branch of the Tab river in Fars, Persia. 582 TAL TILISH— Lat. Long. Elnv. A district bounded north by the Kur, south by Ghilan, east by the Caspian, west by the Masula mountains. It formerly belonged entirely to Persia, but now the north part, as far south as Astara, belongs to Russia. It is well watered by numerous streams which send their waters to the Caspian. It is divided into five or six different districts, each under a chief, who is virtually independent. The climate of Talish is extremely unhealthy, and all the inhabitants retire in the hot weather to their yeilaks in the mountains. The soil is remarkably fertile, and produces grain, tobacco, wine, cotton and silk. Monteath says the revenue of the Russian part is absolutely nothing, and Holmes says the Persian part pays 30,000 tomans, from which, however, 14,000 are deducted for the maintenance of the contingents of the chiefs. " The tribes of Talish which have, says Fraser, several features of character in common with the Lesghis of Daghistan, unite many of the better qualities of highlanders with the barbarity of savages. Their country being more accessible, and their chiefs more under control than those of the Lesghis, they cannot be such systematic robbers, neither do they embark so regularly in the business of taking prisoners for sale, or for ransom, which those formidable banditti practise ; but property and life are not at all more sacred in their hands, for they are continually marauding among themselves, and plundering their immediate neighbours, whenever they can; murder, it is said, is an every -day crime with them, and no stranger would be safe for an hour in their country without the protection of their chiefs, or those whom their chiefs must obey. " These freebooters, however, are brave, and are devoted to their chiefs ; they are active and patient of fatigue, but are treacherous, merciless, and rapacious towards all the world beside. They have very few good qualities, and yet they are interesting, from the many points of resemblance, in their patriarchal or feudal economy to the highlanders of Scotland, as they were in old times. There is, amongst these tribes, not only the same devoted attachment of clansmen to their chief, but among that chiefs retainers one might discover the same description of attendants, gillies, and henchmen, which constituted the followers of a highland laird. The sword and the rude firelock of the chief are borne in charge by one young man, while another takes care of his cloak, and a third of his pipe. Others again are ready to assist his steps, or stand by his horse's head, on occasions of danger or difficulty. Crowds of idle hangers-on stand before his windows or loung- ed lazily about the doors, awaiting their lord's appearance, and start into motion with the same springing activity whenever he gives the signal for marching. " But as the highlands of Scotland are far outdone in height and diffi- culty by the rugged mountains of Talish, so does the Talish mountaineer surpass the Scottish highlander in the strength, ease, and agility, with which he springs up the longest and most precipitous passes ; even the little boys dash up the steep faces of the hills after the straying cattle, astonishing by the facility with which they move along the most danger- ous places. The nature of the life and the active habits of these people have a great effect upon their general appearance. They are for the most part spare, raw-boned men, of robust, though not tall frames, with countenances not unlike the highlanders, Scotland. Their dress consists 583 TAL— TAN of a large loose pair of trowsers, made of coarse grey or dark brown stuff, reaching below the ankles, and generally tied into the charucks or shoes, which are nothing more than a leathern sock drawn round the instep, and tied on by a thong passing many times round the ankles. These are made to fit, or rather to draw very tight, and appear sufficient to guard the foot against the stones, while they fly so easily as to be very pleasant to the wearer, and enable him to move along at a great pace. The only vest they wear is a sort of a long tailed vest fitted tight to the body, the skirts of which are stuffed into the trowsers, so that the bulk of the nether man greatly exceeds that of the upper parts. The head is covered by a sheep-skin cap of red or black wool. About the waist, these moun- taineers wear a leathern girdle, from which depends the formidable cummeh, or Ghilanl knife ; and over their shoulder they carry their match- lock, in the use of which they are very expert. The ammunition is carried in numberless rows of loops for cartridges on the breast of the vest and other parts of the person, or in small gourds called cuddoos, hollowed out to serve for powder-horn, &e. In the hand is carried a basket of plaited grass, in which is stowed provisions or plunder. Such is the complete of a Talish highlander." Talish was first taken posssssion of by the Russians at the invitation of its chief Mustafa Khan, who was at enmity with Aga Mahamad Kajar, and then sent a garrison to Leukiran. They were, however, driven out of this in 1812, but returning next year, they, on the 13th January 1813, assaulted the place with 2,000 men and three vessels of war, and carried it after sustaining a loss of 1,200 men killed and wounded, among the latter of whom was the General Kutlerous. Before the war of 1826, the Russians were attacked and driven out by Mir Husen Khan, son of Mustafa Khan, who maintained himself in the district till the end of the war, when it, as far as Astara, was given over to the Russians by the treaty of Turk- manchai. (Fraser — Monteith — Holmes.) TAL-I-SlAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A small village in Dashtistan, Fars, Persia, 12 miles from Bushahr on the road to Firozabad. It is protected by a small fortalice. Good water is procurable here from wells. No fuel is obtainable except dung. Slaughter cattle are procurable in small quantities, and also animals for baggage. It contains 100 houses and pays 200 tomans revenue. (Jones — Felly.) TAMINAGA— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting place in Persia on the road between Mashad and Herat, 30 miles from Turbat and about 62 miles from Herat. There is an excellent spring of water here and good grass. [Connolly.) TANGASSIER— Lat. 28° 31' 30". Long. 51° 8' 22". Elev. A small town on the coast of Fars, Persia, situated under the hill called 'The asses' ears/ {Brucks.) TANGAWAN— Lat. Long._ Elev. A hill fort in Khuzistan, Persia, at the point where the Dizful river enters the plains. (Rawlinson.) TANG-I-BAWASH— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia, on the road from Firozabad to Bushahr. It is a difficult pass, the road being for a considerable distance up the bed of a ravine. It is however practicable for guns. It can be turned by going from Akram by Haft Mula to Kalama. {Jones.) 584 TAN TANG-I-CHAK0N— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia. TANG-I-FIROZABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia, on the road between Flrozabad and Shiraz. It is not very difficult, and there are said to be paths by which it could be turned. (Jones.) TANG-I-KARM— Lat. Long. Elev, A village in Fars, Persia, one stage north from Fars, on the road to Shiraz. It is about a mile in kmgth, and is surrounded with a mud wall, and has many flourishing gardens. It is 30 miles east by south of Sarvlstan. (Owseley.) TANG-I-NAREK— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia, one march from Dagumbezan, on the road to Kala Sufed. TANG-I-SARDARI— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Irak Ajami, Persia, on the road from Tehran to Shahrud, and 1] miles east of Kishlak. This is an opening across the chain of a vast spur, separated from the Elburz, which gradually descending into the plain runs for 16 to 20 miles in a south-easterly direction. A salt desert about 35 miles in length separates this spur from Slah Koh, which, notwithstanding this interruption, seems to be a continuation of the same range. The defile of Sardari presents an excellent defensive position, more espe- cially at this entrance and exit ; at the latter it is only a pistol shot in width j but it might be easily turned, the only difficulty in doing so being the want of water, which would have to be carried for one day's consump- tion, and in going direct from the district of Veramin to that of Khar, passing by EywSni Kef. "All doubts", says Ferrier, "may be set aside as to the site of the Caspian Straits. In my opinion they are to be found in the pass of Sardari, I resided near them for twelve years, during which time I made numerous excursions into the surrounding country, especially amongst the mountains of Demavand and Firozkoh, and had ample opportunity of carefully considering the subject. (Ferrier.) TANGISTANIS— A tribe who inhabit the country near the sea in Fars, Persia, south of Bushahr. They are of Arab descent. There is a town called Tangistan which contains 130 houses, and pays 1,400 tomans revenue. (Petty.) TANG-I-THEIS— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fars, Persia, on the road between Bebahan and Kala Sufed. TANG-I-TUKAB— A defile in Khuzistan, Persia, about 7 miles north of Behbahan, by which the Jarahi enters the plains. (Chesney) TANG-I-TtJRKIN— A defile in Fars, Persia, on the road between Kumarij and KazirBn, 85 miles west-south-west of Shiraz. It commences 5 miles from Kumarij. The ordinary road descends the defile on the bed of a torrent, and for the distance of 3 miles is stony and narrow and quite impracticable for guns or wheeled carriage. Rocky and precipitous heights command the road throughout, rising abruptly on both sides and continuing so till the road debouches into the plain of Kumarij. There is another road over the 585 4 b TAN— TAR mountains which is practicable for horses, though -steep in some places. The mountains here are more accessible, and therefore offer less impediment to a force occupying the right and left of the pass, and the road down the ravine could easily be made practicable for artillery. (Ottseley — Monteith). TANGI ZANGH— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Persia, on the road between Yezd and Bandar Abbass and between Gurch and Saidabad. It is narrow pass of about 11 miles in length, very rocky, overrun by water and impracticable for artillery. (K. Abbott.) TANG-I-ZANJlRAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Fare, Persia, about 12 miles from Firozabad to Shlraz. It is not difficult, and has a stream running down it. The heights on either side could be crowned by infantry. TANGI ZARDAWAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A valley in LGristan, Persia, on the road from Dizful to Khoramabad. It is a narrow and richly wooded valley, running up in a direction, north 20° west, for about 20 miles into the range between a line of rocks of immense height and almost perpendicular. (Rawlimon.) TANG-I-ZINDAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A defile in Kirman, Persia, three stages from Bandar Abbass, on the road to Kirman. (K. Abbott.) TANG CHEVIL— Lat. Long. Elev. A small and rich valley in the mountains of Mangasht, Persia, north of Bebahan. (Layard.) TANG-SOLAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A small and rich valley in the mountains of Mangasht, Persia, north of Bebahan. (Layard.) TANG-TAKI— Lat. ' Long. Elev. A small and rich valley in the mountains of Mangasht, Persia, north of Bebahan. (Layard.) TAORTJN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 87 miles from Turshez, on road to Shahrud, from which it is 84 miles distant. It is a small village, but has a fort and small gardens. {Clerk.) TAP-TAP— Lat. Long. Elev. A district in Azarbijan, Persia, situated south of Kala Zohak on a branch of the Karangu river, which is entirely inhabited by the Shekaki tribe. (Monteith.) TAREM— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Laristan, Persia, north-east of Lar, and north-west of Bandar Abbass, on a road from the latter to Shlraz. It contains about 12,000 inhabi- tants, but is a meanly built place standing in a plain on the banks of a salt river. It consists of a mud fort, surrounded on all sides by wretched huts formed of the branches of the date tree, which grows in great abund- ance on the surrounding plain. There are many respectable inhabitants in this place who trade to Maskat, Bandar Abbass, and Shlraz. (Kinneir.) TAROM— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Azarbijan, Persia, situated on the both banks of Kizl Ozan and between the Elburz and the Mastila ranges. Tarom is divided into two dis- tricts ; the upper division, which occupies a narrow tract on the right bank of the Kizl Ozan between the river and the mountains, is named Taromi Khelkhal, the lower, a more open country, where the hills recede farther 586 TAR— TAW from; the river, is called Taroml-paSn. The district on the left bank of the river, stretehing up to the other range of mountains, is named Pushti- Koh, and though now usually included in Tarom, is not considered properly to belong to it. Taromi-Khelkhsl contains about 100 villages, situated among the ravines and narrow valleys which run down from the mountains to the river. It is abundantly watered, and possessing a very warm climate, is well adapted to the cultivation of cotton, which it produces in large quantities. There are a great number of gardens and orchards also round all the villages^ and tbe fruit which is thus grown forms one of the staple articles of export. In- the mountains, too, there are mines of salt and alum that are considered of some value. The chief place in Taromi- Khelkhal is Weniserd, a large village, distant about one mile from the river, considerably below the point where the road from Zanjan to Ghllan crossed it and Teshwish, upon the skirts of the hills, near Weniserd, is also a place of some consequence. A very small proportion of the villages remain in the hands of government ; by far the greatest part have either been conferred in tiyul upon the proprietors, or have been given, in lieu of pay, to the officers of the court. The inhabitants are all Turks. ( Bawlmson.) TARSU— Lat. Long. Elev. A village on the island of Kishm, Persian Gulf, between Konasir and Laft. It is a large village • producing dates, vegetables and a few supplies. (Brucks.) TASH BOLAK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khemseh district, Persia, 40 miles from Zanjan towards Miana, from which it is 45 miles. It is a considerable village. (Ouseley.) TASUJ— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in district of Gunieh in AzarbTjan, Persia, on the road to Tabrez from Arzrum, three miles from north shore of Lake Oramla. It is a considerable village, capital of the above district, embosomed in gardens and shaded by trees, some of which are respectable in size. TATAV— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Azarbijan, Persia, which rises on the Kandllsin mountains, and falls into the lake of Uriimia, a little south of the Iagatu. (Rawlinsm!) TAULEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Khfizistan, Persia, stretehing north from Shustar, between the Ab-i-Shorish and the Karun towards Ram Hormaz. It is inhabited by the Makiavand branch of the Janekl Garmsar Bakhtiarls. (Layard.) TACNA— Lat. 26° 42' 15". Long. 54° 15'. Elev. A village in the coast of Laristan, Persia, north of tbe island of Kenn and at the entrance of Charak Bay. It is built round a fort, which is erected on a rock near the beach, and is inhabited by about 180 men of tbe Beni Baphar tribe. It has a few trading boats, and was during the time the pirates were in power on the gulf in alliance with them. (Brucks.) TAURI— Lat. 27° 38' 52". Long. 52° 16' 40". Elev. A small town in the coast of Fars, Persia, situated on a bay near the boundary of Laristan. There is excellent shelter in the bay in a north-wester, and in- differently good in south-easters. It is inhabited by about three hundred and fifty Arabs of the Nasur tribe; affords a few supplies, and bas excellent water. To the north-west of the town are very extensive ruins, said to have been a Portuguese town ; if so, it must have been one of impor- tance from the appearance of the ruins. In many parts the rock has 587 TAU— TEH been excavated for residences in the hot season, and the pass in the hills appears to have been fortified in a manner much beyond the abilities of the natives, at least of the present day. Wells have been also sunk to the depth of forty or fifty fathoms through the rock. Very high up on the hills reservoirs in ruins are very numerous. On the whole, it has all the appearance of having been a large and flourishing town. Several trading boats of various sizes belong to Tauri. (Brucks.) TAYIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Luristan, Persia, which joins, the Khoramabad river a shoit distance above its junction with the Kashghau river. (Chemey.) TEDJEN— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Mazandaran, Persia, rising in the north slopes of the Elburz Mountains. Within 1 mile of Sari, it is crossed by a solid and hand- some bridge of 1 7 arches. It is very narrow, being only 24 feet wide. The stream here is broad and strong, and in floods must be very formidable. It falls into the Caspian 17 miles north of Sari. There is a large fishery for sturgeon at its mouth. There is a bar at the mouth of the river. (Fraser.) TEGHAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, north-west of Birjan. It contains about 20 families of Arabs, and has a considerable extent of cultivation about it. (Forbes.) TEHRAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A city, capital of Persia and of the district of Irak A jam!, situated on south-west of Sari, 270 miles south-west of Astrabad, 471 miles west- south-west of Mashad, 672 miles west-north-west of Herat, 677 miles north ^--cf Bushahr, 510 miles north-north-west of Shiraz, 224 miles north of Ispahan, and 500 miles north-west of Baghdad, 290 miles north-west of Kirmanshah. The town of Tehran is situated in the very lowest part of an immense desert plain. There is nothing very impressive in its appearance. A city of 100,000 inhabitants, living in mud houses, and packed within a mud wall 20 feet high and four miles in circumference, cannot be a very striking object. Neither are the environs very attractive. A wide, stony plain, with mud-built villages here and there, and without lake or stream or forest, but studded with long lines of circular pits, the shafts to the great subterraneous water-courses on which, in this region, the life of animal and herb is altogether dependent, cannot of itself be very captivating. The one feature of the landscape that rivets attention is the gigantic range of the — Elburz mountains, 10,000 feet high, which runs like a wall of the Titans to the north-east of the city, and terminates in the stupendous peak of Demavand. The city has the shape of an irregular oblong, and is about four miles in circumference. It is surrounded by a dry ditch, and with the exception of a few shops outside some of the gates, is entirely contained within an embattled mud wall flanked by numerous round towers in very tolerable repair, and a very broad ditch with a " khakrez" between it and the wall. The city cannot boast of any building of either beauty or antiquity ; that of the greatest consequence is the citadel, which is fortified in the same manner as the town, and contains the palace of the Shah and the houses of most of his court. It was originally built by Karlm Khan Zand, 588 TEH and has been enlarged and embellished by succeeding monavchs. The citadel contains the Divan Khana-Shah or Darb-i- Khana, as the ' royal residence is often styled. One of the great open-fronted halls in this edifice is richly decorated with gilding, painting and inlaid mirror- work, and supported by two fine pillars which Kaiim Khan had caused to be constructed at Shiraz. The Ark comprises quarters for the soldiers, and many extensive ranges of apartments, such as the Daftar Khana, the Sanduk Khana where money, splendid robes, shawls and other valuable articles are deposited in boxes ; the Imarat-i-Khursld or " Palace of the Sun," a handsome building in which Fateh All Shah sometimes received ambassadors ; the private chambers of the Shah constituting the Khalwat Shahl and Andarun Shahl, of which one compartment is called Imarat-i Sarvistan or " Palace of the Cypress Grove •" and another, the Gulistan or "Bed of Roses." Here too is the royal Harem or dwelling place of the king's numerous wives and their female attendants, and many of the younger princes are allowed to occupy certain rooms within the Ark, which contain ten baths, two or three gardens, besides several hauz and reservoirs of different sizes, all surrounded by a wall with towers and a deep ditch. Near the gate of this citadel is the Jabeh Khana, an armoury or arsenal, where persons are constantly employed in cleaning and repairing tofangs or muskets, topanchehs or pistols. • On passing the ditch and gate is a maidan (square), surrounded by barracks, and now occupied by 600 or 700 pieces of artillery. In the centre, on a raised platform, is an immense piece of ordnance, which was cast by Karlm Khan, and was formerly placed in an Imamazadeh called Shahl Chiragh at Shiraz. It was afterwards brought here, and having, it is supposed, partaken of the sanctity of the spot from which it came, is respected as a sanctuary. The carriage is falling to pieces, and the Persians wish to make a new one, but dare not take the gun down, fearing that they should never be able to mount it again. Crossing this maidan, and going through a gateway ornamented with colored tiles, one enters the royal establishment, consisting of numerous courts, gardens and divan khanas, both public and private. There are six or seven mosques at Tehran, of which the principal is the Masjid Shah, built, like that at Semntin, by Fateh All Shah; all the others are insignificant. There are said to be between 150 and 200 public baths and a like number of caravansaries. The city is divided into four parishes or mahallehs : (the Mahalleh Bazaar, the Mahalleh Khai Maidan, the Mahalleh Owd Larjan, and the Mahalleh Senghilek ;) and possesses five gates, named either after the districts into which they open, or from the places to which the road leads : thus, to the east, the Abdul Azim Gate, leading to the district and village of that name, where is a mosque, built in honour of the Shekh Abdul AzTm a son of the seventh Imam. The village is situated on the site and among the ruins of the ancient city of Rhe. To the north-east, Daolat Gate leading to a village of that name, whence Tehran is supplied with vege- tables of all kinds. To the north, Shamlran Gate, opening towards that district, lying along the foot of the Elburz, and excessively fertile and populous ; and Daolat Gate (royal), leading direct to the palace and gen- erally used by the Shah. To the west, Kasvln Gate, leading to that city on the high road to Tabrez. ' 589 TEH Large round towers are placed about 50 yards in front of four of the gates j their walls are immensely thick and strengthened by ditches and mounds of earth. The gates are still further protected by a species of out- work; the walls of the city, flanked by small towers, are in a ruinous condition ; they are of course built of mud ; their summits are jagged, and they are furnished with a banquette. The counterscarp of the ditch is so much the worse for wear that a Persian horse could scramble up or down in some places. The earthen round which intervenes between the scarp and the foot of the wall is the only solid part of the defences. T hese gates are well built, with- domed entrances, ornamented with colored bricks, inlaid in the shape of lions, tigers, and deeves or genii, and appear to be kept in good repair. At the Shekh Abdul Azim Gate, through which all caravans of mer- chandise are obliged to enter, no matter from what direction they may come, the custom-house is established, and the same dues levied both on entrance and departure. The duty varies according to the nature of the goods : it is generally 4 karans per load, but on same inferior articles, it is from 1 Kar§ns, upwards. The revenue of TehrSn is 37,000 tomans in money, of which the custom-house pays 13,000; that of the whole province of Irak is 1,037,000 tomans in money, besides about 108,000 kharwars of grain, straw, &c. The bazaars are built of brick, with vaulted roofs, and whenever the court is at Tehran, present a living and bustliDg appearance. As in all Per- sian towns, its bazaars are the only streets it can boast of; its other paths of communication are but crooked and winding alleys, so narrow that it is dangerous to meet even with a loaded ass. Sometimes these alleys have a paved gutter in the centre, flanked with high and irregular banks; in other places, from the unsound condition of a water-conduit below the surface, holes are frequent — a circumstance which is pregnant with evil and broken legs to many a horse and mule. In all cases they are full of nuisance and abominations, not the smallest of which is the number of squalid beggars who lie just under your horses feet as you pace along. The bazaars are extensive and tolerably well filled witb goods as well as people, yet they make but little show ; there is not a minaret or tower in the place to give effect to the distant view; and of the two domes which it possesses, that belonging to the Shah's mosque is alone to be perceived by the approaching traveller, from having a little gilded cap upon its head. The shops are well filled, and exhibit British and Russian goods, German glassware, hardware and cloth, and the productions and manufactures of Persia. There is in the Georgian caravanserae a shop, which has lately been fitted up in the European style, where every imaginable commodity is to be found. From the bazars is a passage leading into a square court occupied by gun- smiths, who are skilful at their trade, and turn out very respectable weapons ; but as they find much difficulty in getting money for their articles, the number they manufacture is insignificant. Next to this yard is the cannon foundry, which is one of the Prime Minister's hobbies, and is under his particular superintendence. They make very good guns, but have no artillery- men to manage them when made. 590 TEH Tehran can scarcely be called a commercial town ; though where there is a court, there will always be a great consumption and a certain amount of trade. There is also a transit trade to all parts of Persia. The population in general consists of between sixty and seventy thousand souls, but it fluctuates considerably, according to the absence or presence of the court. The streets are not paved : in summer they are exceedingly dusty, and in wet weather almost impassable from the deep mud. The houses are built with sun-dried bricks, in the same style as is used throughout the whole of upper Persia. The appearance of the country around the city is very dreary and desolate, being stony and barren. To the north is the Kasr-i-Kajar, a summer-house built by Fateh All Shah. On a raised platform of earth, supported by terraces gradually rising in succession, and at the foot of the elevation, is a garden; it was generally tenanted during the summer by the royal harem, but the place was found so unhealthy that it has been shut up, and is rapidly falling into decay. About eight miles from the city in the same direction, at the foot of the mountains, are the yeilaks, where the British and Russian missions and most of the richer inhabitants retire in the summer, when the heat in the city is suffo- cating and the air almost pestiferous. The following list of tribes in the vicinity of Tehran is given by Shiel :— " Shahseven — 9,000 tents. Toorks. Dispersed over a large tract, according to the season, between Kflm, Tehran, Kasvin, Zanjan. Kharehkanlu, Bajmanlu, Kundeshlu, Khellij, Khoda, Bendehhi are lis living in the town of Tehran. 400 houses. Turks. Afshar — 900 tents and houses. Turks live between Tehran and Kasvin. T&rk-i-Mafi — 100 houses and tents. Turks and Leks. Pairewend, Jellilawend, Kakawend, Ghiasawend, Chegini — 500 tents and houses, but chiefly houses. Leks. Live near Kasvin. Hedawend, ") Burbur, > 1,000 tents and houses. Leks. Sylsepur, J Arabs of Demawend, "\ Kengerlu. Turks and Leks) > 1,000 tents and houses. Kara Churlu. J Pazeki — 2,000 tents and houses. Turks and Leks. Arab — 2,000 tents and houses. H£f' } 150 houses. Turks. Zerger — tents. Leks. Are reputed as thieves and coiners. Tuyuj — 300 tents near Tehran. Turks. A base tribe ; are thieves and fortune- tellers ; very poor. Dispersed all over Persia. Kurd Bacheh — 400 tents. Leks. Abul Hassan!, "\ Jehan Beglu, [■ 320 tents and houses. Turks. Shadlii, ) Shah Servari — 250 tents. Leks. Live to the south of Tehran. Nana Kelll — 650 tents. Leks. Ditto ditto. tTsanlu — 1,000 tents and houses. Turks live at Khar and Demawend. Mafi (including Pyrawend, Harunawend, Shuirawend, Shahverdlawend, Aspanawend) — 1,000 houses. Leks. Live near Kasvin." {Kirmeir— Malcolm — Shiel — JFraser— Holmes.) 591 TEH— TEZ TEH-ROD— A fort in Kirman, Persia, 40 miles north-west of Bam, on the road to Kir- man, from which it is distant 99 miles. It is in a miserably ruinous condi- tion, and posseses only 7 or 8 families inhabiting the meanest hovels that can be conceived, but there is a large mud caravanserae. The productions of the plain consist of grain, millet, and palma Christi, of the former the quantity is considerable. [Christie — K. Abbott — Smith.) TEJAND—Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Khorasan, Persia, which rises in the Elburz range north-west of Mashad. It is not sure what becomes of it, though both agree in saying it is lost in the desert to the west of Sarakhs. At this place it has a consi- derable volume of water. {Thomson — Burnes.) TEKAB— Lat. Long. Elev. Vide Khubbes. TANG- A.B— Lat. Long. Elev. A defile in Fars, Persia, which occurs three miles on the road from Flrozabad to Kaziriin. It is a rocky and rather fine defile leading down the banks of the stream for about one mile to the remains of a stone bridge, beyond which a short distance the road leads up the side of the valley over slippery rock, which has therefore in one part been cut into steps. The road from Flrozabad to Shiraz branches off from this defile. (K. Abbott.) TENACORBEN— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Mazandaran, Persia, which lies between the Mlandeh-rud and the Namak-ab-rud. The revenue is about 2,700 tomans. It furnishes 500 foot soldiers. The productions of its low lands are rice, a little silk of a quality inferior to that of Ghilan, and sugar ; while beans, wheat and barley are grown in its high lands. It is inhabited by some of the Khoja vend tribe from Ardelan and Liiristan. These are originally nomads, but now inhabit different villages moving about from one to the other as they find it convenient. They keep cattle, but employ themselves as well in the cultivation of the soil. [Holmes.) TERATCL— Lat. Long. _ Elev. A district of Kurdistan, lying apparently in Persian territory, north-west of Sehna and north-east by east of Sulimania. (Rich.) TERE-CHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A pass in Irak AjamI, Persia, over the range which divides the drainage of the Kizl Ozan from that of the Zanjan river. (Rawlinson.) TEREGORAM— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Ghilan, Persia. It has a bazaar. (Fraser.) TERHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in Kirman Shah, Persia, on the right bank of the Kerkhah river above its junction with the Kirrind river. (Chesney.) TERK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, 19 miles east from Turkmanchai on the Tabrez and Tehran road. It is a pretty little place surrounded by orchards belonging to Shekakls. TEZENG— Lat. _ Long. Elev. A village in the district of Sarvistan, Fars, Persia, 46 miles south-east of Shiraz. It is a large village containing 600 families and embosomed in orchards. [K. Abbott.) 592 TIK— TOR TIKANTAPEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, on the main road from Tabrez to Hamadan, 32 miles from Sain Kala. It is situated in a valley of limited extent well watered and pretty generally cultivated. The village is named from a large irregular mound of no great height, but of considerable circuit, of which it covers the south and west skirts. It is one of the chief places in the Afghan country. (Rawlinson.) TIKMEH-TASH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia^ 43 miles from Tabrez, south-east on the Tehran road. It is a large and populous village. There is a stream running past it, and a caravanserai. (Ouseley.) TItJL— A custom in Persia of granting the crown revenues of any town or district ; the individual receiving the grant being usually entrusted with its realiza- tion, though not necessarily so. The grant also extends only to one lifetime unless otherwise specified. It is calculated that about one-fifth of the whole revenue of Persia is at present thus alienated from the crown. (Rawlinson.) TOGRAJEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 46 miles north-west of Kirman. About 15 miles from this village in the mountains is a lead mine called Sar-Gheli, which is worked near the summit of a hill. The metal is contained in earth and sand, which, after undergoing a washing in seven successive trenches, is smelted in the spot. Some of the earth yields two parts of lead out of 25 parts, or about 10 per cent., but a red sand found there is said to produce 50 per cent, and requires no washing. (K. Abbott.) TOMBS— Lat. Long. Elev. Two small islands in the Persian Gulf, which he nearly close together off the western extremity of Kishm and about 25 miles distant. The northern point of the Great Tomb is in latitude 26° 16' 28", longitude 55° 24' ; and the centre of the Little Tomb is in latitude 26° 14' 50", longitude 55° 16'. They are called Great and Little, and are low and flat, the iarger being of the shape of an irregular triangle, the three sides being about two and half miles each, and the smaller being about one and half mile in length. They are both uninhabited and uncultivated, the small one being destitute of everything, but the larger having a little grass on the plain and a large banian tree about the centre. The large island is weU stocked with antelopes, and there is good water on it. The anchorage is pretty good to the south-east and west, but on the north side a spot runs off about three-fourths of a mile, otherwise that part is steep. To the channel between it and two and half fathoms on the Basidoh flat is seven and quarter miles, but the safe channel is not more than six and half miles, as the bank shoals very suddenly at this part. The smaller island which is situated about five miles west-south-west of the Great Tomb is rocky at the west end, and should be approached with caution, otherwise it has irregular soundings of from 28 to 5 fathoms, and there is no danger elsewhere. (Taylor — Brucks — Kempthorne.) TARAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A name of the Taliyur branch of the Tab river of Khuzistan, Persia. TORK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on right bank of the Dizfal river, celebrated for its gardens and rich arable land. (Layard.) 593 4 c TOR— TUB, TORLOR— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Mazandaran, Persia, about 10 miles east of Barfarosh. At the point where the road to Sari crosses it, its bed is nearly 350 yards across. {Holmes) TOWAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Tenakorben, district Mazandaran, Persia, on the road between Amol and Lahijan. The houses of this place are all dispersed in twos and _threes through the jungle. (Fraser.) TUDARVAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 43 miles from Chasma All on the Tehran road. It is situated in a long narrow valley, and has about 200 houses. There is no cultivation worth mentioning, as there is no suitable land and not water enough. It furnishes 200 men for the Semnun regiment in lieu of taxes. It is situated in a narrow gorge on the banks of a stream, fringed with luxuriant foliage, the surrounding mountains being bare. There are three villages called collectively Tu Derwar, Oz Sah Derwar, and Towar. {Morier — Holmes.) TtjL— Lat. Long. Elev. A fertile plain in Khuzistan, Persia. (Zayard.) TUL-TIBI— Lat. Long. Elev. A fort in Khuzistan, Persia. It is built of mud, is the residence of a Bakhtiari chief, and is built on a lofty mound. (Zayard.) TUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town of Khorasan, Persia, 140 miles south of Nishapur. It is surrounded by a wall which has been recently repaired, and contains 3,500 houses, inhabited by Persians. It has handsome bazaars, mosques and caravanserais built of burnt brick, and its gardens are large and numerous. A good deal of trade is carried on ; the productions are opium, silk, cotton, tobacco and fruits. Water is scarce, and the corn crops are consequently light. In years of draught, wheat for consumption is obliged to be imported. Camels and sheep are numerous, horses scarce. H. B. Lumsden says from Birjan to Tun is 53 miles over a cultivated country covered with villages. Some years ago a Persian army marched from T5n to Tehran in seven days. Tun is a considerable place and supplies are abund- ant, but the population are principally pastoral, possessing large herds of camels and goats. Water from " karezes.'" {Ferrier — Lumsden) TURBAT HAIDARI— Lat. Long. Elev. A town and district in Khorasan, Persia, 30 miles south-east of Turshez, west-north-west of Khaf and south-west of Mahmudabad. It contains 3,000 houses inhabited by the warlike Persian tribe of Grarai. It is walled and surrounded by a ditch, and there are bazaars but not roofed mosques and caravanseraes. There are more than 200 villages in the district. The productions are opium, silk, tobacco and fruits. The tribes of Turbat Haidari are — Karai or Garai Biloch Leks Miscellaneous... The district of Turbat Haidari was, during the reign of Aga Mahamad Khan, raised into a semi-independent khanate by Ishak Khan, whence it is sometimes known as Turbat Ishak Khan. Malcolm gives the following 594 5,000 tents and houses. * ) 2,000 „ „ | f All these speak 1.000 „ „ i t Persian. 2,000 „ „ . ) TUR interesting particulars of this individual : — " Ishak Khan was born a Tajak, and was according to prejudice by birth unwarlike, but his father, who was the servant of a chief of the branch of the tribe of Kara Tatar, had shown himself above the duties of a shepherd, which was his first employ, and had latterly been trusted with the command of a hundred men. The young Ishak, who derived claims from the character of his father, was appointed one of the mace-bearers to his chief, whom he persuaded to depute him to Turbat-i-Haidarl (then an inconsiderable place) to rebuild a caravanserae for the use of travellers. Having obtained a considerable sum of money for this purpose, he commenced execution of his task. But his plans, which had been long laid, now approached to maturity. He gradually converted the caravanserae he was directed to build into a square fort, and his intrigues to foment divisions in the tribe to which he was attached were so successful that by the time his work was completed, the chief who had employed him was slain by some of his own officers, and his sons were compelled to fly from the country to save themselves from a similar fate. " These events produced feuds in the tribe of Kara Tatar, which added to the power of Ishak Khan, with whom all the discontented found refuge ; and strengthened by these adherents, and by that wisdom which enabled him to turn every occurrence amid the revolutions which surrounded him to advantage, the shepherd's son soon became one of the most powerful nobles of Khorasan. He had been in the early part of his career greatly aided by the monarch of the Afghans, whose army he had joined, and whose court he had visited ; but when his power increased, he ventured to throw off his allegiance, and the troubled state of the dominious of Kabal left him without apprehenson from that quarter." A writer, who was in Khorasan the year before that province was invaded by Aga Mahamad Khan, states "that the possessions of Ishak Khan extend on the north to the gates of Mashad, a distance of more than a hundred miles, and they stretch almost as far south-east in the direction of Khaf. His revenue is very considerable, and he maintains a force of six thousand men, but he trusts more to policy than to arms for his future security." " This extraordinary man," he remarks, " has hitherto never failed in conciliating", when it was necessary, the good opinion and confidence of his superiors. He is dreaded and hated by those who deem themselves his equals, who have seen, with envy and astonishment, the success of all his measures, but no ruler was ever more beloved by his subjects, and " none," continues his biographer, " ever more merited to be so ; for he devotes himself to them. He manages all his own affairs, and in his most remote districts there are no great renters or deputies, who have the power to oppress his people. His mind is incessantly occupied, and he was never known to spend an idle moment." " No one," this writer observes, " is intrusted with the secrets of this inscrutable man ; but experience has led all to repose with confidence in his wisdom. He is the first merchant in his country, and derives from this source half as much revenue as he takes from his subjects. The integrity and regularity of his dealing is so remarkable that his bills are current not only in Khorasan, but all over Kabal and Persia." "His whole revenue is computed at a hundred thousand tomans (two hundred thousand pounds), thirty thousand of which is stated to be from his own estates, almost all of which he has purchased ; forty thousand from 595 TUR his subjects, and twenty thousand, profits of his merchandise. He is said to have three thousand camels continually on hire with the caravans between India and Persia. He exports all the dried fruits and other produce of his own estates, and imports the produce of other countries, which he sells. " This chief/' the same author adds, " reads a great deal, and is estimated a good Arabian and Persian scholar. He is thoroughly versed both in the history of his country and neighbouring nations ; and he appears careful to give his sons the best possible education, particularly those by the daughter of the chief of the Kara Tatars, whom he married soon after the death of that noble. His politic preference of this part of his family, and his declaration that the eldest son of this high-born lady shall be his heir, has reconciled many of her tribe to his authority. " The great relaxation which Ishak Khan permitted himself to enjoy was, perhaps, of a nature more calculated to give stability to his power, as it advanced his reputation, than all the labour he underwent. Turbat-i-Hai- darl, which he had raised from an inconsiderable village into a town of consequence, was a place of great resort to pilgrims, merchants and travel- lers. The Persians boast (not without some reason) that they excel all other nations in the virtue of hospitality. It is natural, therefore, that they should dwell with exultation on this part of the character of Ishak Khan, whose mehman-khana, or hall of entertainment, which could contain nearly five hundred guests, was always open, and from it none however low, or of whatever persuasion, were excluded. The author before quoted remarks that his hospitality and charity are so boundless that even the Hindus who applied here are supplied with money, that they might purchase and eat apart that meal which their religion forbad them to enjoy in the society of others. Ishak Khan is represented as delighting in this part of his establishment. He always dines with his guests, and his attentions are said to be so divided that, to use the words of a Persian author, princes and beggars are equally pleased. It is in these hours of re- laxation that he displays his great knowledge of men and books, and adds, by the information he receives, to his vast stock of knowledge. We cannot be surprised that those who have for days, weeks, and months listened to his conversaton and partaken of his hospitality, should spread his name in every direction. This reputation was of itself a safeguard, for the most absolute sovereigns of Asia are themselves the slaves of public opinion ; and the monarch who, without an adequate pretext, should even diminish means so justly accumulated and so nobly used, would be exposed to reproach from all who had either enjoyed or heard of the bounty of this extraordinary man. This account of Ishak Khan is taken from the pen of one who knew and admired that chief, but it is confirmed by the information of more impartial observers; and though it may be highly coloured, there can be no doubt that it is substantially true." (Malcolm — Bumen — Shiel — Ferrier.) TfjRBAT ISHAK KHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. See Turbat Haidari. TtJRBAT-I-SHEKH JAM— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Khorasan, Persia, 91 miles on the road from Mashad to Herat, from which it is 110 miles distant. It was named after Shekh Jam, a 596 TUR saint of repute, whose remains lie buried in a beautiful garden. It was formed of more importance, but in 1825 it was plundered by Alah Kali Khan of Khiva. It contains 200 houses, and is the chief place of a district situated in the extreme frontier towards Herat, and is surrounded by gar- dens and cultivation. About 2,300 families of nomads are encamped near the mountains, seven miles south of Turbat, and pay their taxes on horses. The tomb of Shekh Jam is held in great repute by the surrounding popu- lation as a healer of all ills of this world. There is a caravanshah outside the town. [Connolly — Clerk.) TCRGOVEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 12 miles west of Mashad. It is a flourishing place of 800 houses. The water is good here, and fruit of all kind is abundant. (Ferrier — Clerk.) TtJRK— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Khalkal district of Azarbljan, Persia, 24 miles east of Turkmanchai. It is a large but ruinous-looking village. (Fraser.) TURKMANCHAI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, 64 miles south-east of Tabrez. Here on the 18th February 1828 a treaty of peace was signed by General Paskiwitz on the part of Russia and by Abbas Mirza on that of Persia. (Monteiih.) TtfRPARU— Lat. Long. Elev. A river in Mazandaran, Persia, which falls into the Caspian, west of Rud- i-Sar. It has a bed of 230 yards broad. [Holmes.) TURSHEZ— Lat. Long. Elev. A town of Khorasan, Persia, situated 216 miles from Herat, 149 miles from Blrjan, 197 miles from Shahrud, 56 miles from Turbat Sheikh Jam, 30 miles north-east of Turbat Haidari. It is a considerable walled town, containing, according to Forster, 20,000 inhabitants, to Wolff 12,000, and to Ferrier 2,000 houses. About 100 houses are inhabited by Hindus from MflltSn and Jesalmlr. They occupy a quarter where they conduct business without molestation or insult. The inhabitants are Persians. The trade of this place arises chiefly from the importation of indigo and other dyes from the west, and wool, cloth and rice from Herat, and iron wrought into thick plates. A trifling quantity of European goods are brought from Mazandaran by way of Shahrud, and from Ghilan by way of Yezd. The prunes generally known as Alu Bokhara chiefly come from Turshez, and raisins and other dried fruits are exported thence in large quantities. The district of Turshez which extends about seven miles to the east of that town is very productive, and abounds in grain and fruits of all description ; the grapes, figs and pomegranates of Turshez being deemed equal, if not superior, to any in Persia. It also produces silk, opium, and tobacco. There are four villages dependent on it, but a considerable population of nomadic Biloch, who number about 8,000 tents, and have very large flocks. The revenue of this district is estimated by Malcolm in 1810 at 30,000 tomans Khorasan nett, and by Clerk in 1858 at only £9,000. The inhabitants are chiefly Arabs and Biloch. Formerly this district used to be much subject to inroads by the Uzbaks. {Forster — Wolff — Ferrier Clerk — Connolly.) 597 u. tfGDA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Yezd, Persia, 54< miles on the road from Yezd to Ispahan, from which it is 123 miles distant. It contains about 160 houses with a good serae, and is situated on the edge of a desert between two ranges of mountains running north-west and south-east. It is the last village in the district of Yezd towards Ispahan. {Christie.) TJJARtJD— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Azarbijan, Persia, bounded on the north by the plain of Mogan, east by the Bala-rud. Germi is its chief place. The inhabitants are _ chiefly pastoral, possessing large flocks of sheep and droves of cattle. {Todd) ULAKIS— A tribe of the Haft Lang branch of the Bakhtiaris, who inhabit in summer the mountains near Fellat and Semiran, and during the winter remove to the seacoast north of Bushahr. They number about 1,200 families, and were originally a sub-division of the Baidarvands, but having been long separated from them, they may now be considered a separate tribe. They accompanied Nadar Shah in his expedition against Herat, and afterwards settled for a short period in Kandahar. They afterwards returned to their own country with some difficulty ; and now the greater part of the tribe of Ulaki has proceeded from Shiraz to Tehran, where they have since remained. (Jjayard.) tlNSHAY— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 106 miles on the road from Khaff to Tabas, from which it is 82 miles distant and 285 miles from Yezd. It is a large village with a little cultivation and plenty of good water and flocks of sheep; there is also a good serae. {Christie.) tTRIABD— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Azarbijan, Persia, comprising the mountainous tract between the Miana river north and the Kibleh Koh south. It is principally known on account of the rich lead mines in them. These mines have never been regularly worked. A thin vein of very rich grey lead ore extends through a hard schist rock close to the surface for nearly six miles, never distant more than a few inches below, but not yet found to extend much beyond that depth. This yields in a common forage 70 per cent. The hills round are covered with a low brushwood fit for charcoal, and the borders of the river supply a considerable quantity of willows and other light wood. {Monteith — Rawlinson.) TJRUMIA— A lake in Azarbijan, Persia. It has a length of about 90 miles by a breadth of 30 miles, and a circumference of not less than 250 miles. Rawlinson says the greatest depth of water found at any part is 24 feet, and the average 12 feet, but the shores shelve so gradually that this last depth is not reached for two miles ; and Morier says its greatest depth is not more than four to six feet, and in some places it is scarcely 1£. But Monteith who crossed it in two directions in a boat, and consequently had the best 598 URU opportunities for judging, gives the following evidence on this point : — " Cross- ing from the coast to the Koin Adasay island, he found that for two miles there was only three feet water, the bottom perfectly smooth and covered with a hard blue clay ; it then suddenly deepened to five feet for nearly the same distance, when it again deepened to eight ; these alterations took place in steps and at once. The next increase was to 12, subsequently to 18 and 22, which was the greatest depth found. In returning their boat was carried off Gougarchene Kala off Salmast, and here was found 45 feet of water, and this is believed to be the deepest part of the lake. The banks of the lake are only in a few places approachable without wading through dark-green salt slime and plants piled up almost round the lake. The waters of this lake, which, like those of the sea, appear of a dark- blue colour streaked with green, according as the light falls on them are perfectly clear and intensely salt, but the quantity or exact nature of the substances which they hold in solution is not known. A great quantity of salt is deposited upon the shores, and a pavement or flooring as it were of salt might be seen covering the bottom for a considerable distance under the water. In some places there was an incrustation of salt towards the margin, from under which, when broken, thick concentrated brine rushed out, and the deposition of salt and saline efflorescence extended in some places many hundred yards from the water's edge, encircling it with a belt of glittering white. No fish or living thing as far as is known is found in this lake. The water is Salter than that of the sea, and is said to be too salt to support animal life. Certainly fish brought down by the streams immediately die, and Morier is the only authority who mentions any aquatic birds, but Wagner says he found an immense number of Crustacea of a peculiar description. The lake supplies the adjacent country with a salt of beautiful transparency. According to a chemical analysis to which it was subjected by an American, Mr. Hitchcock, the water appears to hold in solution an immense number of ingredients, especially decomposed vegetable matter. This may result from the putrescence of water plants and marshy slime and mud, as well as from vegetable substances brought down by the torrents. The specific gravity of the water is so dense that fatty bodies such as pigs do not sink in it, and this heaviness, according to Rawlinson, prevents the lake from being much affected by storms which, from its shallowness, would otherwise render its navigation dangerous. A gale of wind can raise the waves but a few feet, and as soon as the storm has passed, they subside again into their deep heavy death like sleep. Wagner, however, was informed by the natives that the lake was almost as tempestuous as the Black Sea in the spring. No less than fourteen rivers of different sizes discharge themselves into the lake. Of these the most important are the Jagatu, Tatau, Sefichai and Ajichai. The lake has its largest supply of water in spring, when the snows melt and the torrents flow with the greatest violence. Notwithstanding this large discharge, the lake has no outlet, and conse- quently the only way its waters can diminish is by evaporation. It is not possible to form any idea of the proportion of the evaporation which bears to the supply on account of the extremely uncertain nature of that supply. 599 URU There are said to be no less than 56 islands in the lake of tJrtimla. The largest of these are the Sheep islands, so called from a number of these animals being transported there for pastures in winter. This cluster is com- posed of three large islands and five small ones. Horse island is the largest and most fertile, but its only supply of water is from tanks. Sheep island is about the same length, five miles, but seldom more than 1£ in breadth. It is composed for the most part of a fine compact but bare limestone. Here there is a small spring of water and a large cistern for rain water. Ispera is not more than 1£ mile in length, and it has more soil but no water. To the south of these there is a cluster of nine rocks of 20 or 30 feet elevation, and wood is also found in them, but they are of no other importance. In addition the peninsula of Shahl has been sometimes called an island, notably so by Kinneir, who says it is 25 miles in circumference. There seems to be some difference of opinion as to the increase or decrease of the lake. Fraser says he was informed that it had receded full 500 yards in 12 or 14 years, and this was attributed to the amount of water taken from its affluents for irrigation purposes, and Morier generally agrees in this opinion. Rawlinson on the contrary says there is a common tradition iu the country that the lake has greatly encroached on its original extent. The low shelving shore, which now stretches far into the water, is supposed at no very remote period to have been dry land, and the increase of the water is explained by the disemboguement of the rivers Jagatu and Tatau, which were formerly absorbed in the irrigation of the plain of Mlandab. Another proof deduced in support of this opinion is the submersion of the causeway, which is believed to have formerly crossed the lake from Urumia to Binat>, but of which no trace now exists. Morier accounts for any apparent discrepancies by the uncertain supplies of water brought down by its affluents, which are one day overflowing their banks, and on the next scarcely to be called rivulets. No use whatever is made of this lake, though it is difficult to conceive a finer subject for inland navigation than it and its tributary streams afford. The country from Tabrez to its bank is very level, and the river Aji which passes the town, flowing for most part of the way in a deep loamy bed, might easily be converted into, or made to feed, a canal, and thus the valuable produce of all the districts around the lake of tjrumia might be brought to the capital at a trifling expense. So little is the value of this large sheet of water felt that when Fraser visited it, there was not a single boat upon it. There had been but two, and those of most clumsy construction. One of them had been wrecked only the year before, with a loss of eight men ; the other had rotted at an earlier period, but no one ventured to replace them by new vessels, because they feared that the government would impose heavy duties upon the projectors, and so constant- ly require the boats themselves for service that they would become sources of loss instead of profit. Wagner remarks of the lake : — " If it were in the centre of Europe, our physicians would probably send thousands of their patients, who could derive no benefit from the whole pharmacopeia, to Lake Urnmla, and who knows if a plunge in its waters might not renovate them. I at all events can affirm from personal experience that ten baths in the German Ocean do not create so much stimulus in the skin, or so much exhiliration in the nerves as the water of this lake, which holds so much more salt and 600 URU iodine in solution than even the Dead Sea. You come out of its waters as red as a crab, and, moreover, greatly invigorated and refreshed. The Urumla baths would have this farther advantage over the North Sea, that its waves are not in the least dangerous, even in storms. For independently of its shallowness (it is only six feet, deep two miles from shore), so great is the gravity of the water that the slightest movement of hand or foot keeps you afloat. Stout men who stretch themselves full length on its surface, float without making any effort. Natives, however, are said never to bathe in the lake." (Bawlinson — Monteith — Morier — Wagner — Fraser.) This lake has various names, viz., — Daria Shahi, tJrumla, Maragha, Armanistan and Dariaeheh. tJRUMIA — Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Azarbijan, Persia, 112 miles south-west of Tabrez, situated in a noble plain 12 miles west of the lake of the same name. It is surrounded by walls and encircled by orchards which penetrate even into the heart of the town and separate the houses from each other, and every house of any importance has its gardens with rows of chinars and poplars towering above the enclosure. The streets are wider than in most towns, and have generally a stream of water running down the middle. The bazaar is lively, but is far inferior to that of Tabrez in size, variety of goods, and entertaining sights. The city is surrounded by a deep ditch, which can be filled with water. Few ruins are visible in tJrumla, for where any exist, they are generally concealed by the wall, which incloses eaeh tenement like a fort. This mode of rendering each house, that is those belonging to the great, a sort of stronghold, is remarkable and very characteristic of the state of society which used to subsist in tfrumia. Situated on the borders of Kurdistan and in the midst of a " land debateable/' frequented by the fierce tribes and clans of that wild country, most commonly at blood-feud with one another, it became a matter of necessity for each chief to have at least a place of refuge in case of attack from his enemies. When MikrI and Hakari, and Afshar and Zerza met here, as on a common neutral ground, how, without such means of defence, could bloodshed and murder be pre- vented, where the police is weak, or the parties are beyond its power ? Urumla has, according to Wagner, 30,000 inhabitants, but Kinneir only estimates their number at 12,000, and Fraser at 20,000. There are five American missionaries with their wives and families sta- tioned in Urumla for the purpose of educating the young Chaldeans of the neighbourhood. The plain of Urumla is almost 50 miles long and 18 broad, and the eye embraces nearly its entire surface from Seir. Its extraordinary productiveness is secured by the abundance of waters descending from the snowy Kurdish mountains, and it would be difficult to find a more exceedingly careful cultivation of the soil, a more judicious system of artificial irrigation, or a denser population. The vast area presents an endless series of villages, gardens and fields, as far as the eye can reach, offering considerable analogy to the richly cultivated banks of the Lake of Zurich, though it lacks the palatial farm houses, the cleanliness and comfort of the Swiss, as well as the blessing of their political liberty. Poverty, misery, and famine are rampant in this Persian paradise. Its unfortunate inhabitants, besides having to pay 65,000 tomans to the state treasury at 601 4d URU— USH Tehran, are fleeced by the scandalous robberies and oppression of the Persian employes and nobles to whom the caprice of the Shah assigns the villages. The district of Urumia contains 400 villages, and presents an extra- ordinary scene to a person accustomed to the treeless monotony of the plains of Mesopotamia. A more fertile district can scarcely be imagined — one vast extent of groves, orchards, vineyards, gardens, rice grounds and villages, sometimes with a village common. It much resembles the best part of Lombardy, between Milan and the Lago Maggiore. For twelve miles this town is surrounded with gardens intermingled with melon grounds, cotton and tobacco fields, the latter of high estimation, for chibouk smoking is sent in large quantities to Constantinople. (Kinnei/r — Fraser — Wagner — Rawlinson — Shiel.J TJSHNAI— Lat. 36°55'29". Long. Elev. 4,619. A town in Azarbijan, Persia, south of Urumla. It is prettily situated on the rise of the mountains at the north-west extremity of the plain, surrounded by a large extent of orchard land, and has only about 200 families, besides which there are 300 Mikri, 100 Balbas, and 100 other Kurdish refugees in the vicinity. It is a dependency of Urumla, and formerly had, according to Rawlinsons, 1,000 houses in the town alone. The plain of Ushnai is estimated by Ainsworth at from 8 to 9 miles in length and 2 to 3 miles in breadth, by Fraser at 14 to 15 miles each way, and by Rawlinson at 10 miles also each way. Ainsworth accounts for the discrepancy by supposing that Rawlinson included in his estimate part of the lower valley of the Gader, which, from the direction by which he approached Ushnai, may have had more the appearance of constituting part of the upper plain. Ainsworth says the plain of TJshnai would appear to have once been a lake, which was gradually filled up by deposits of gravel brought down by the Gader, which at the upper end of the plain attain a depth of upwards of 100 feet._ The district of Ushnai, says Rawlinson, has been little visited by Europeans, and merits therefore a short description. Situated at the foot of the great Kurdistan mountains, and surrounded on either sides by an amphitheatre of lower hills, it occupies a natural basin of small extent, but of great beauty and fertility. The river Gader, debouching from the mountains by a deep and precipitous gorge, bisects the plain j and numerous other streams, which descend from the same hills, supply the means of irrigation most abundantly throughout the district. The plain is irregularly shaped, its extreme length and breadth being about 10 miles, and con- tains the little town of tJshnai and about forty other villages dispersed over the adjacent country. The inhabitants are Kurds of the tribe of Zerza, now reduced to about 800 houses, but numbered, before the plague which attacked this part of Azarbijan, between 4,000 and 5,000 families. The district of Ushnai pays an annual revenue of 4,000 tomans. The Zerzas, however, in common with all the Kurds, are of the Sun! religion ; and thus differing in language, in manners, and in faith from their Afshar masters, submit impatiently to their dominion. They are a remarkably fine, active, and athletic race, and are, perhaps, the most warlike of the many warlike clans who inhabit this part of Persia. From their exposed position, indeed, upon the immediate frontier of Turkish Kurdistan, they are constantly engaged 602 UST— WAN in frays with the wild tribes who inhabit the neighbouring mountains ; and Rawlinson saw several of the chiefs who wore their shirts of mail day and night, and always kept their horses ready saddled, not knowing at what moment they might be called on to sally forth and repel a foray. Their common weapon is the spear. (Rawlinson — Ainsworth — Fraser.) tJSTAJALU — A tribe of Persia of Turkish origin, and one of the seven tribes to whom the name of Kizlbash was given by Shah Ishmail. I do not know whether any of them yet remain. (Rawlinson) IJZKOH— Lat Long. Elev. A beautiful valley hi Azarbijan, Persia, south-west of Tabrez, and tributary to the Ajichai. The hills which surround it are clothed with wood, its villages are embosomed in trees, and its soil is very productive. (Morier.) V. VAKILABID— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 21 miles from Gulashgord, on the road from Kirman to Bandar Abbas. (Smith.) VALDIAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on the road between Mehrand and Khol. Its situation is perfectly beautiful. (Morier.) VARAMIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Irak Ajami, Persia, east of Tehran. It is covered with villages, and is very fertile and well watered, supplying the markets of Tehran. (Perrier.) VAZ KERUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Kiim in Arak Ajami, Persia. (Abbott.) VENISARD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Tarom Khelkhal, district of Azarbijan, Persia, 9 miles from the right bank of the Kizl Ozan. (Rawlinson.) VERTAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kohpah, Irak Ajami, Persia, 26 miles east of Isfahan. It contains only 20 families, and is surrounded with some gardens and trees. Its situation on a wide barren plain is most dreary. (K. Abbott.) w. WAIS— Lat 31° 40'. Long. Elev. A town in Khuzistan, Persia, 35 miles above Ahwaz, on the left bank of Kariin, 13 miles below Band-i-Kir at the bottom of a long straight reach of about 9 miles. It contains about 300 families. (Selby — Layard.) WANEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran on the Haraz river between Amol and LarijSn. It is described as a pretty village, situated in a green cultivated valley. (Stuart.) 603 Y. YAKDAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Jask district of Kirman, Persia, about 25 miles east of Jask. It contains about 150 families. (Johnston.) YAKUBtS. A tribe of Arab origin said to reside in the district of Ghayn, Persia'. YALTAMIR— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, about 35 miles south from Suj Bolah on the road to Saridasht. It has a fortified hillock, near it in a pretty valley on the banks of the Tetawah, a stream which finds its way towards Maragha. (Fraser.) YAMAN— A peak of the main range of the Kurdish district of Khorasan, Persia. {Fraser.) YEICH— A river in the Kurdish district of Khorasan, Persia. It is crossed on the road between Radkan and Khabushan, and is said to be "fine stream." (Fraser.) YELALE.— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Suldtlz district, Azarbljan, Persia, half a mile from Tash Tappeh. (Rawlinson.) YENGAGA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbljan, Persia, 15 miles below Syadkandi, on the Miana river. It is a fine village quite concealed by a profusion of gardens. (Monteith.) YESHAKA— Lat. 26°33'. Long.~53°30\ Elev. A small village on the coast of Laristan, Persia, near the cape of the same name. It is subject to Lingah, and contains about 60 men of the Alfarish tribe. (Brucks.) YEZD— Lat. Long. Elev. A town in Persia, capital of the district of the same name. It is situated in the middle of a plain about 50 miles broad, bounded by high ranges of picturesque mountains. The town is surrounded by a wall, but a large proportion of the inhabitants live outside. The town itself is very uninteresting, and contains hardly any building worthy of note. The only remarkable one is the Jama Masjid, a very old building now ruined, the front of which, however, is still handsome. The bazaars are narrow and irregular, but well stocked with goods and crowded with people. The governor lives in a fortified enclosure outside the town. Christie states the population of Yezd to have lived in 1810 in 20,000 houses, besides 4,000 more for the Gabrsj but if this estimate was correct, the numbers have since then very much decreased, as Smith, writing in 1868, says it only amounts to 30,000 souls, of whom 4,000 are Gabrs and 1,000 are Jews. A large proportion of the inhabitants are engaged in tha manufacture of silk, which is said to be superior to any other made in Persia. 604 YEZ— ZAF The raw material is obtained from the villages in the neighbourhood, and large quantities are also brought for manufacture from Ghilan. Henna and reng for dying the hair, brought in a raw state from Mlnab and the neighbour hood of Bandar Abbas, are ground and prepared for use and ex- ported to all parts of Persia. Sugar is also refined and sent chiefly to Ispahan. The external trade appears to be very considerable, and the merchants of Yezd are reputed to be among the most enterprising and respectable of their class in Persia. Some of their agents have lately gone not only to Bombay, but to the Mauritius, Java, and China. The manufactures of Yezd consist of Kasb and Aluhi (two sorts of silk cloth), and are superior to any of the kind in Persia; the Guebres also make excellent candied sugar, and the numuds or felts from Taffc (a small village within 8 milesj are equal to the best made at Kirman. Sheep are brought to this place from Shlraz, and grain from Isfahan. There are at least fifty thousand camels in the city ; and a donkey will here sell as high as fifteen tomans or fifteen pounds sterling. The city has a mean appearance, and has once had a wall, part of which still remains. {Christie — Smith.) YEZDANABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the district of Kirman, Persia, 55 miles from Kirman, and 162 miles from Yezd, on the road between them. It contains 35 families, and has some cultivation of wheat, barley, cotton, and millet. (K. Abbott.) YEZDIKHAST— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, 80 miles from Ispahan, on the road to Shiraz. It is 'the border village of Irak Ajami towards Fars. It is most fantastically situated on an isolated rock of conglomerate, 600 yards long by 50 yards wide, and contains some 300 houses, but those are merely mean mud huts. The bread made at this village is celebrated throughout Persia. Before the Afghan conquest it was a place of some consequence, but, since then, it has never resumed its prosperity. It is cele- brated as the place where Zaki Khan Zand was assassinated in 1779. (Kinneir — Ouseley — Morier — Malcolm — Chesney — Clerk — Taylor. J YOKARIBASH— A division of the tribe of Kajars, Persia. YtJNfj— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, situated about 50 miles from Sabzvar, on the road to Nishapur in a small valley, through which a stream winds, the water of which is slightly brackish. (M. S. Route.) z. ZAFARuNl— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khorasan, Persia, 40 miles west of Nishapur, 20 miles east of Sabzvar. It is a wretched village protected by a mud wall containing 44 inhabited houses and a ruined caravahseraeshah, the largest in Persia. It is 605 ZAF— ZAN J situated on a vast plain covered with low bushes and rough grass which / requires only man's care, and a supply of water that could easily be brought from the hills, to be clothed with smiling crops. There is a small fort here and a post-house, and the ruins of an immense caravanserae said to have once been the grandest in Persia. It was built of immense strength with founda- tions of solid masonry and walls eight feet thick. When Pelly visited this place, a new caravanserae was being built out of the material of the old one. Zafaruni is nearest stage to the famous turquoise mines of NishapQr, which are about 24 miles distant. {Clerk — Pelly — Ferrier — Eastwick — <^_Connolly.) ZAGHA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirmanshah, Persia, 92 miles from Kirmanshah, 11 miles from Hamadan, on the road between them. It is small, is surrounded by a wall, and has some rich cultivation belonging to it. (Taylor.) ZALLI — Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Persia on a road between Shustar and Ispahan by Gotvand, Andakan, Shunbar, Baziift and Char Mahl. ZAMARtTD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river in Irak Ajaml, Persia, 40 miles east of Tehran. The water is brackish, and the river is nearly dry in the summer. {Clerk!) ZAM-UD-DIN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, 45 miles from Yezd and 195 miles from Barman, on the road between them. There is a fine caravanserae here of circular form with six flanking towers. The water here is very salt. {Smith.) ZAND— A tribe of Persia, at one time the ruling tribe of that country. Liltf Ali Khan was the last of the Zands. ZANDABI— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Bushahr district, Fars, Persia. It contains 100 houses and pays 1 00 tomans revenue. (Petty.) ZAND ANA— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 50 miles from Shiraz, on the Firozabad route to Bushahr. (Monteith.) ZANDASHT TAGH— Lat. Long. Elev. A hill in the district of tTrumla, Azarbijan, Persia, over the west side of Lake Urumia. ZANGAWAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A plain in the Pusht-i-Koh district, Luristan, Persia, on the bank of the Kirrind river, and on the road from Zohab to Khoramabad. It is a favorite camping ground of the Pusht-i-Koh Lurs. (Bawlinson.) ZANGHUDA— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting place in Khorasan, Persia, 60 miles from Shahrud, 98 miles from Turshez, on the road between them. There is a well of water here, but it is slightly brackish. Firewood is abundant, but the encamping ground is confined. (Clerk.) ZAN-I-TAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A halting place in Yezd district, Persia, 54 miles from Yezd, on the Kirman road. There is a ruined caravanserae here which stand's alone in a desert, and the only water to be had is from a small spring, dark-coloured, brackish, and bitter with a strong bituminous smell and a most disagreeable taste. (Gibbons.) 606 ZAN ZANOBl— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the island of Kishm, in the Persian Gulf, situated 1J miles inland and about 18 miles from Laft. It contains about 100 inhabitants, and cattle and poultry are procurable. (Brucks.) ZARGHAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 15 miles north of Shiraz, on the road to Yezd and Ispahan. It contains 600 or 700 houses and 2,000 inhabitants. Soap and ' dangari' are manufactured here ; wheat and barley are cultivated here, and vegetables. The inhabitants possess mules and donkeys which they let out on hire as carriage animals. Most of the muleteers of Southern Persia come from this village. It is also called Zargun. {Petty — Morier.) ZARNAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirmanshah, Persia, on the road from Zohab to Khuzistan. It is 28 miles south of Gilan and 40 miles from Chardawar. It is situated on a barren plain. There are extensive ruins in its vicinity. It is 2 miles distant from the Ganglr river. It is inhabited by the nomadic tribe of Kalhur. (Bawlinson.) ZALAKI— Lat. Long. Elev. See Bakhtiar s. ZANGENAH— A tribe of Janekl Garmsar Bakhtlaris, who, according to Layard, inhabit the plain of Bagh-i-Malik in Khuzistan, Persia (see Bukhtiarls). Baron DeBode however says it is a Kurdish tribe, brought here from Kirmanshah by Nadar Shah at the time when he transplanted the Bakhtiar! to the Turkman frontier. The colony of Zangenah originally consisted of 2,000 families, which from various causes are now reduced to 400. {Layard — DeBode.) ZANGIABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Kirman, Persia, about 13 miles north-east of Kirman. (Abbott.) ZANJAN— A river of Khamseh, Persia, which rises in the plain of Sultania, and after a north-west course of 70 miles, passing the town of Zanjan, whence it takes its name, joins the Kizl Ozan at 6 miles below Darband. (Chesney.) ZANJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A town, capital of the Khamseh district, Persia. It is situated at the opening of a mountain glen, and is an imposing looking place surrounded by a mud wall with flanking towers. It contains about 20,000 inhabitants, who are said to be the most mutinous and troublesome in all Persia, this being the stronghold of the Babi sect. (Eraser — Kinneir — Ouseley — Stuart — Holmes — Eastwick.) ZANJIBAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Azarbijan, Persia, on the road from KhoT to Marand. It is beautifully situated amongst rocky high lands of the most picturesque forms. This place has the reputation of being excessively sultry from being surrounded on all sides by mountains. (Morier.) ZAN JIB, AN -Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Fars, Persia, 21 miles from Firozabad, on the road to Shiraz It is situated in a deserted tract and surrounded by thick jungle. Ordinary, supplies are obtainable, and good water is found in a brook flowing through the plain. (Jones.) 607 ZAV— ZEE, ZAVIEH— Lat. ' Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajami, Persia, on the road from Tehran to Hamadan. It is a large village surrounded by numerous others and by a corresponding extent of cultivation. It is situated at the edge of the desert. (Morier.) ZAWIZAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, on the left bank of Dizfiil river. It is cele- brated for its gardens and rich arable land. {Layard.) ZEDIC— Lat. Long Elev. A village in Ghilan, Persia, 8 miles from Fomen at the foot of the Masula pass. {Monteith.) ZEIM— Lat. Long. Elev. A valley in Kirman, Persia, 52 miles from Kirman, on the road to Shahr-i- Babak. ( Gibbons.) ZEMtJJAN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Grhilan, Persia, 22 miles east of Lahijan. It is a large place and has a bazaar. [Fraser.) ZERAB— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Mazandaran, Persia, about 20 miles north of the Ak G-aduk pass. The houses in this village are long sheds thatched with branches, leaves and rice straw and by no means weathertight. One end, appro- priated to the bipeds of the family, is built of logs cemented with mud. It is situated on the river Talar, which often inundates it ; hence its name Zerab, under water. {Stuart.) ZERBATIAH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in LuristSn, Persia, 12 miles north-east of Badrai. It is cele- brated for its date groves, and its soil is favourable for the growth of orange and lemon trees. The land produces grain of various kinds, and cotton and hemp ; but the country is so frequently exposed to the deprada- tions of the Arabs, that its inhabitants engage little in its cultivation. (Layard.) ZEBJDAN— Lat. Long. ^ Elev. A plain in Fars, Persia, in which there is a fresh water lake. No clue is given to the situation of this plain. (Chesney.) ZEREND— Lat. Long. Elev. A district of Irak Ajami, about 45 miles south-west of Tehran, on the road to Hamadan. It is a large district comprehending a number of fine villages which afford abundant supplies. The horses of the Persian artillery and cavalry are often quartered here on account of the forage and supplies procurable. Morier talks of the desert of Zerend which is destitute of water. {Eraser — Morier.) ZERIBAR— Lat. Long. Elev. A lake in Persian Kurdistan, about 8 miles east of the frontier line on the road from Sulimania to Sehna. It is surrounded by a swamp for a mile all round it except on the side nearest the mountains, but the water in the centre is a clear blue. There are numbers of wild fowl. It is frozen over in winter. The plains around it are a favourite summer resort of Jaf Kurds. {Rich.) ZERREH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Irak Ajaml, Persia, 45 miles from Hamadan on the road to Tehran. It contains about 250 houses, and is situated near a stream of very good water. {Ferrier.) 608 ZER— ZOH ZERZA— A tribe of Kurds who inhabit the district of Ushnae, Azarbljan, Persia. Their numbers are now reduced to about 800 houses, but before the plague which attacked this part of Azarbljan, they numbered some 4,000 or 5,000 families. (Rawlinson.) ZETUN— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Khuzistan, Persia, 15 miles south of Bebahan. It comprises about 2,000 inhabitants, and is situated in a pleasant valley fertilized by both the branches of the river called Zohreh, and Hindian, or Tab, which here form a junction. There is also a district of Bebahan of this name enclosed by a range of low hills, and admirably watered by the river Zohreh, from which numerous canals and water-courses are also derived. The land devoted to rice grounds yields abundant crops of a superior quality. Cham is the principal village, and there are several others. Zetun is bounded to the east by another range of sandstone hills, the west faces of which are exceedingly steep, to the east however they are very little above the level of the plain of Zettin. Zetun is bounded to the east by another range equally precipitous, to the west however they unite almost insensibly with the plain of Bebahan. There are the Zetun hills. Their sides are furrowed by a thousand torrents, and the roads across them are on the west side very difficult. (Kinneir.) ZETONABAD— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in the Pesh Koh district in Azarbljan, Persia, on the left bank of Kizl Ozan. It is inhabited by Amberlu Kurds settled here by Nadar Shah. [Rawlinson) ZIADOGLU— A division of the Kajars who were settled by Shah Abbas at Ganjah in Russian Armenia and remain there still. (Malcolm.) ZIARAT— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in Astrabad, Persia, 12 miles south of Astrabad, on the road to Shahrud. It contains -50 wood houses, and is romantically built on a small hill coming out into the centre of the narrow valley. At the foot of the village in a neat burying ground is the tomb of Imamzada. A quick clear stream runs past it, and on either side rise high and richly wooded moun- tains. {Connolly.) ZIBEH— Lat. Long. Elev. A village in KhUzistan, Persia, on the left bank of the Dizful river. It is celebrated for its gardens and rich arable land. (Layard.) ZINDARUD— Lat. Long. Elev. A river of Irak Ajami, Persia, which is said to rise in the Koh-i-Zard mountain, west of Ispahan, and passing that city is lost in an extensive marsh called Gao Khaneh, about 60 miles east of Isfahan. It is crossed at Ispahan by a bridge. ZOHAB— Lat. 34° 85' 22". Long. Elev. A town in the district of the same name, Persia, south-east of Sulimania, and west-north-west of Kirmanshah. It is described as a miserable place, having now barely 30 tenable huts, though formerly it contained 1,000 houses. The climate of Zohab is proverbially unwholesome, and the water, though clear and not unpleasant to the taste, contains some pernicious mineral component that, if indulged in for a short time only, seriously affects the traveller. To the natives, 609 4e ZOH however, it is not so baneful, but they are nevertheless aware of its bad qualities, for they recommend a raw onion to the stranger before a draught is indulged in. The water of the Shirwan, Holwan, and Zemkan is alike deleterious, both to men and cattle, as indeed are, with few exceptions, the whole of the springs which have their origin in this part of the Zagros range. Fevers are very prevalent, caused by the marshy nature of the district ; and excepting amongst the nomad tribes but few individuals wear an aspect of health. During the summer, the heat is excessively oppressive, and the myriads of annoying insects that infest the locality are represented as almost beyond endurance. A cooler atmosphere can, how- ever, be reached in a few hours, and that luxury, — ice, — is attainable all the year round by sending to the mountains above. (Rawlinson — Jones.) ZOHAB— Lat. 34° 36' 22". Long. Elev. A district of Persia lying on the frontier between Sulimania and Kirman- shah. It is of considerable extent, lying at the foot of the ancient Zagros. " It is bounded on the north-west by the course of the river Diala, on the east by the mountains, and on the south by the stream of Holwan. It formed one of the ten pashaliks dependent upon Baghdad until about sixty years ago, when Mahamad AJi Mlrza, prince of Kirmanshah, annexed it to the crown of Persia. At the treaty concluded between Persia and the Porte in 1823, it was stipulated that the districts acquired by either party during the war should be respectively surrendered, and that the ancient frontier-line should be restored, which had been established in the time of the Safavi monarchs. According to a subsequent treaty, Zohab ought certainly to have been given up to the Turkish authorities, but Persia had neither the will to render this act of justice, nor had the pasha of Baghdad the power to enforce it ; and Zohab, although still claimed by the Porte, has thus remained to the present day in possession of the government of Kirmanshah. " Zohab having been acquired in war is Khalsah or .crown land. It has been usually farmed by the government of Kirmanshah, at an annual rent of 8,000 tomans (£4,000) to the chief of the Guran tribe, whose hardy Iliat inhabit the adjoining mountains, and are thus at all times ready to repel an attack of the Osmanlis. The amount of its revenues must depend, in a great measure, upon the value of rice and corn, its staple articles of produce j but in years of plenty, when the price of these commodities is at the lowest possible rate, a considerable surplus will still remain in the hands of the lessee. The revenue system in this district is simple, and more favorable to the cultivators than in most parts of Persia. It is thought derogatory to the chief to take any part of the cultivation into his own immediate hands. He distributes grain to his dependents, and at the harvest receives as his share of the produce of rice two-thirds of corn in consequence of the water consumed in its irrigation, which is the property of the landlord or of government, and is rarely to be obtained without considerable expense and labour. " The rice-grounds of Zohab are chiefly irrigated by an artificial canal, brought from the Holwan river, a distance of about 10 miles. The canal is said to have been an ancient work ; but was repaired and rendered avail- able to its present purposes only about a hundred years ago by the same pasha who subsequently built the town of Zohab. 610 ZOH " The revenues accruing to the chief averaged 10,000 tomans annually, of which the following is a rough statement : — Tomans. From produce of rice, 2,000 kharwars, at 2 tomans per kharwar ... 4,000 Ditto wheat and barley, 2,500 kharwars, at 1 toman per kharwar ... 2,500 Rent of the karavanserai of Sar Pul, which includes the transit duty upon merchandise and the profits arising from a monopoly of the sale of grain to the Kerbelai pilgrims ... ... ... ... 1,000 Rent of the karavatiserai of Kasri Shirin ... ... ... 200 Contract for the daroghah-gari of Zohab ; the emoluments of this_ arising from the rent of shops in the Zohab bazaar, and several petty items of taxation ... ... ... ... ••• ••■ 800 Fees exacted from the Iliyat of Khurdistau for permission to pasture their flocks during the winter in the grazing-grounds of Zohab ... ... 1,000 Growth of cotton, rent of mills, orchards, and melon-grounds, value of pasturage, &c, &c. ... ... ... ... ... 500 Total ... 10,000 " Under the Turkish rule Zohab yielded, with its dependencies, an annual sum of 30,000 tomans, but it then included several fertile and extensive districts, which are now detached from it, and there were also above 2,000 ra'yats resident upon the lands ; whereas at present this number is reduced to about 300 families, and the great proportion of the cultivation is in the hands of Gruran Iliat, who, after sowing their grain in the spring, move up to their summer pastures among the mountains, and leave only a few labourers in the plains to get in the crops. The soil of Zohab is naturally very rich ; but owing to the little care bestowed on its cultivation, a tenfold return is considered as good. Manure is never employed to fertilise the lands. After the production of a rice-crop, the soil is allowed to he fallow for several years, in order to recover its strength, or is only sown with a light grain. The interval between two rice crops upon the same ground is never less than seven years, but even this is said to exhaust the soil. Wherever the extent of the lands will admit of it, an interval of fifteen years is allowed. " The grain of Zohab is principally disposed of to Arab -and Turkish traders from Baghdad. They buy it as it lies stacked upon the ground, and conveying it to Baghdad upon mules and camels, without paying any export duty, realise a considerable profit. Scarcely a fifth part of the arable land in this district is now under consideration, and certainly the revenues might be raised, with proper care, to ten times their present amount. " The town of Zohab was built about a hundred years ago by a Turkish pasha, and the government continued to be hereditary in his family till the conquest of the pashalik by the Persians. The capital was surrounded by a mud wall, and may have at first contained about 1,000 houses. From its frontier position, however, it has been exposed to constant spolia- tion in the wars between Turkey and Persia, and is now a mass of ruins, with scarcely 200 inhabited houses. There are about twenty families of Jews here, and the remainder are Kurds of the Suni sect." (Rawlinson.) 611 ROUTES IN PERSIA. No. 1. A'MOL to TEHEAN. On quitting A'mol for Parus, the road leads in a south direction for eighteen miles along the western bank of the Herhaz, and at the sixth mile enters a valley 400 yards broad, through which the stream flows to the plain. A low range of wooded hills slopes to the water's edge on either side of the river. The road then runs along the bed of the stream, and at the eleventh mile, the valley closing in on both sides, the road ascends the left bank of the river by a narrow causeway, in some places not more than three or four feet broad, cut in steps on the side of the hill, and formed of layers of wood and stone placed on deep clay, the natural soil of the hill. This causeway, although lately repaired at considerable expense by one Haji Saleh, a merchant of A'mol, is almost impassable to horsemen and laden mules, and is fast falling into utter decay, numberless mountain streams, and the incessant rains of the country, having washed away in many places the materials of which it is made. The remains of an ancient and more substantial road, built up against the solid rock on the other side of the stream, are visible, and are probably the work of Shah 'Abbas ; but earthquakes and torrents have nearly destroyed it, and travellers prefer the modern causeway, although the distance by it is greater. At the thirteenth mile the road again descends to the bed of the stream, but occasionally runs over causeways similar to the one above described, but shorter in extent. The hills cease to be wooded within about two miles of Parus, a ruined and deserted building, which may once have been a caravanserai. Supplies, in small quantities, are procurable here, but with great difficulty. Beyond Parus, still pursuing a southerly course, the road improves from the hard- ness of the rock over which it passes and from the dryness of the climate. It is, however, in some places only a narrow pathway, built upon or scooped out of the face of a perpendicular rock overhanging the torrent. Frequent acci- dents are said to occur from land-slips and fragments loosened by sudden thaws in the mountains. Between Parus and Karu,* the stream is crossed in two places by wooden bridges, near the remains of stone ones, which have been swept away by the torrent. At Earii some caves, cut in the side of the hill, afford shelter to the traveller, but supplies are not to be procured. Four miles beyond the caves of Kara the mountains close in on both sides of the Herhaz, which here runs in a deep and narrow channel between walls of per- pendicular rock. The pathway, in some places not more than three feet broad, is scooped out of the face of the rock about 200 feet above the torrent. This strong natural defile, about a mile in length, is said to be the only entrance on the northern side into the district of Larijan. Beyond the defile the road im- proves, and after the twelfth mile, at Waneh, it turns south-west, and passes through several fine villages at the immediate south-eastern foot of Mount Demavend, forming the district of Amiri.f Before it reaches Ask,J eight miles farther, the stream is crossed in six places by wooden bridges. At a short distance from Ask the road leaves the river, and ascends the southern shoulder of Demavend. The ascent is steep and rocky. The point at which the road turns the shoulder of the mountain is about 1300 feet above the stream. This road is impassable in winter, when horsemen cannot approach Larijan in this direction, but foot passengers contrive to scramble over the rocks immediately * Khuroe, in J. Arrowsmith's map. — F. S. t Commander's District. — F. S. t Asek (J, Arrowsmith). Ouseley, iii. 329. — F. S. 613 A MOL TO TEHRAN. above the bed of the river. The descent' is comparatively easy, and much shorter than the ascent ; but the road is execrable, being almost blocked up with masses of rock and half-frozen snow. N ear the foot of the mountain, the river is joined by a rapid stream called the Lar, flowing from the north-west. This is crossed by a stone bridge. The road thence ascends the bed of the Herhaz, which is here a mountain torrent ; and for the last two or three miles before we arrive at Imam-Zadeh Hashim,* which marks the summit of the pass,f the steep and rocky pathway is scarcely practicable to a laden mule. The snow was deep on the northern face of these mountains on the 21st April. From Imam-Zadeh Hashim the descent is gradual, the road takes a westerly direc- tion, and after four miles turns to the south into a rich valley, with a fine stream running from the north, on which is situated the village of A'li, also called Taki- zumurrud,J from a garden-place, now in ruins, erected near the spot by Fat.h- 'Ali Shah. Near the village of Riidehan, about six miles beyond 'All, the road joins that which leads from Jaj-rud to the village of DemaVend on the main road to Tehran. No. 2. A'MOL to TEHKAN— 5 marches. 1. Paras— 16— The road ascends the course of the Har&z, either up its bed or through thick jun- gle on the left bank. Near the first defile, where the Haraz bursts its way through romantic rocks, the narrow path is carried by ill cut steep steps through deep mud, several hundred feet above the valley. This is more difficult than any part of the Sari road. Another path, said to be still worse, winds above the right bank of the river. 2. Camp near a Cave — In an hour the road crosses the Haraz by a bridge, then turning south-west en- ters a wild pass, without a particle of vegetation, and with black fantastic crags on each side of the river. It then passes a succession of steep pathways cut out of the side of the hill, so narrow that they will not admit of a mounted man pass- ing. It then enters some green fields, near which in a cave is the halting place. 3. Ask— The scenery for the first 10 miles is as wild as, and far more magnificent than that of yesterday. The path in many places is so narrow that it is difficult to pass. There is a gorge a quarter of a mile in length, which is sublime beyond description. Perpendicular precipices, scarcely 20 feet asunder, rise to the height of 100 feet on each side of the foaming Haraz. The path is 3 feet broad, and there is a passage, just high enough to be practicable for a loaded mule, scarped out of the face of the rock 250 feet above the torrent : the parapet is only 6 inches high, and the chasm below is awful. Pass village of Waneh on a green cultivated valley : higher up on right bank of the Haraz are several considerable valleys- 4. Ah, 20 miles, 9 hours — The road commences by a difficult ascent over a shoulder of Mount Damavand of an hour. The descent is extremely steep and toilsome, among rocks and stones to the Haraz; thence it ascends the bed of the river, fording it 30 times in 2 miles, and increasing in difficulty at every step to the head of the pass. (Thence a road goes to Damavand.) Thence the road descends into a well cultivated valley, with one bad bit of road to Ah. 5. Tehran — The road joins the Tehran and Damavand road at 5 miles from Ah. (Ouseley.) * The Imam's son Hashim. t This is ttis line of separation of waters flowing north to the Caspian, and south towards the plain of Persia, and may probably be estimated at 7,000 feet above the sea, or 8,000 nearly above Tehran.— Ed. t The Emerald ; Portico or Cupola.— F. S. 611. ARZRUM TO TABREZ. No. 3. ARDABrX to ZANJAN— 11 maeches. 1. Euhehim— 6 hours, S. S. E.— The road is good through a cultivated country. 2. Sangava, S. S. E — The road lies through a dreary, cheerless tract. 3. Ieis, S. S. W.— The road is through a well cultivated country. 4. Ahmadabad The road is through a well cultivated country. 5. Pabas, S. S. W.— The road descends gradually. 6. Mamatj, S. S. W — Descend to the Eizl Ozan, which cross by an easy ford 3 miles from Paras. 7. Ak-kand — At this point the road enters the Tabrez and Tehran road, vide No. 133, whence to Zanjan is 4 marches. (Morier.) ' No. 4. AKZRUM: to TABEEZ— 16 maeches. 1. Hasan Eaea — The road crosses some chalky hills, and then enters the plain of Hasan Eala. 2. Ehoemaztj — Cross river Miirts at starting, pass village of Eopri Eoi, and cross Aras at junc- tion with Miirts by bridge of Choban Eopri. This valley is in a well-watered plain sloping to the Aras. 3. Dahae — The road is excellent, and all the streams are bridged. Tt goes through a well- watered and fertile country ; pass village of Den Baba, then come to defile of Eara Darband, a deep narrow gorge, on each side of which rise red rocks, jagged and broken into a hundred pinnacles overhanging the path. A few miles beyond come to the Baghaz-i-Dahar, a narrower but less imposing pass; thence there is a steep ascent followed by a few miles of upland valley. 4. MtJLA SULIMANIA — The road ascends for two hours . 5 . Eaea Ef ii sa — Pass Toprak Eala to the north. The road winds about a great deal to avoid, marshy spots. 6. ITCH EfLfsA— The road goes along the banks of the Morad Chai the greater par*, of the stage, and fords it a little below U'ch Eilisa, close to a two-arched bridge. 7. Bayazid — 8. Eilisa — 9. Eaea Aina — The road crosses the plain of Chaman-i-Eazligul, and then traverses a dreary defile hemmed in by volcanic rocks, and then crosses a hill and descends into the large plain of Chaman-i-Chalderan. 10. Ali Shekh— The road goes through defiles the greater part of the stage. 11. Peeeh — The road goes through a narrow valley into the plain of Ehoi, 615 ASHRAF TO AMOL. 12. Khoi — 6 miles. The road goes over a plain. 13. Haji Syad— The road on leaving is 20 feet broad, and with an avenue of willows for 2 miles, but is intersected by water-courses. Ford the Otur river a little above a bridge, and then ascend from the plain. 14. Tasoj— The road ascends a wild rocky defile, from the summit of which U'rumia is visible. The descent, the roughest and most precipitous on this route, is into a plain which is crossed for J 4 miles. 15. Shebesteb — The road skirts the lake of Uriimia at the distance of 2 to 3 miles. 16. Tabeez— The road crosses a large plain. (Stuart.) No. 5. ASLANDUZ to ARDABIL. 5 marches. As far as Aktapeh, vide No. 113. 2. Aeijeh S. S. E.— The road leaves the Tabrez road to the west. At about 16 miles the road crosses the Kara sii, and then arrives at the village of Dada. beglii and passes Lari to the west ; it then passes Lahar. 3. Aebab, E. S. E — Water from a stream. 4. Kohnak Kaeam, S. E. — In this stage the road comes to a very steep, rocky and dangerous ascent, which is not practicable for laden animals. 5. Aedabii, S. E.— (Morier.) No. 6. ASHRAF to AMOL. 4 marches, 74 miles. 1. Faeahabttd— 27 miles— The road lies through jungle by a narrow rugged path, obstructed with stumps of trees and marshy land toKaratepeh; it then goes to the Caspian and continues along its shores. 2. Mashad-i-Sae . 22 miles — 49 miles — The road goes along the sands of the Caspian for 7 miles to the Siah Eud, which is crossed by boat ; at 17 miles cross the Tatar by boat ; at 18| miles further the Mir-i-Rud, whence the road leaves the beach and goes through fields and jungles to the river Babal at 22 miles, which is crossed to Mashad-i-Sar. 3. Baefaeosh .7 miles, S. 56 miles — At 5 miles pass villages of Pazavar and Hamza Eala, then 2 miles Barfarosh. 4. Amol, 18 — 74 miles— The road goes for 1£ miles along the right bank of the Babal, then west-south- west over the causeway ; at 7J miles cross a small stream and village of Kasam Begi, and half way, just before arriving, cross the Harhaz river by a ford below the bridge. (Ouseley.) 616 ASTRABAD TO TEHRAN. No, 7. ASTRABAD to SAM. 5 stages, 98 miles. 1. Kubdmahala 23 miles. ..W. N. W.— The road lies oyer the Shah Abbas causeway, but it is very ruinous and in many places it quits it to take to the clayey soil of the forest. The road is through thick jungle of lofty forest trees and impenetrable undergrowth, with at times openings with cultivation. Some supplies are procurable here. 2. Nokandeh — 14 miles — 37 miles. The road in this stage is similar to the above. 3. Asheaf. .26 miles. ..63 miles — The road nearly the whole way keeps either upon or by the side of Shah Abbas's causeway through dense jungle. There is another road to the north by the sea-side, but it is in a desert, and dangerous without a guide. 4. Pul-i-Sab-i-Nika ..17 miles W. S. W. .80 miles— The road keeps to the causeway the whole way. and is very good. As Nika is ap- proached, the mountains and forests retreat to the south, leaving the country comparatively open- 5. Saei .18 miles.. 98 miles — The road goes along the causeway, which resembles a well-metalled English road, being raised in the middle and having hollows or drains along the sides. For three or four miles there is cultivation extending to a great distance on either hand ; then a deep forest is entered, which continues for 8 miles, when the country again opens into a wide extent of rice-fields. A t one mile from Sari the Tejand river is crossed by a good bridge of 17 arches. — (Fraser). No. 8. ASTRABAD to TEHRAN. 12 Marches. 1. Mtandaba — 16 miles. As far as Kafshigeeree we retraced the road by which we had arrived; then turning towards the mountains, and travelling through the forest about four miles further, we came to the village of Miaunderreh, distant sixteen miles from the city. It is prettily situated in a valley on the banks of a small stream. 2. Megasse — 16 miles. The road for about a mile from the village lay over wide grassy lawns, on the slopes of the lower hills, from whence we had a good view of the desert, and the south-east corner of the Caspian. We soon entered the forest, which afford- ed some very fine specimens of its own peculiar scenery. We kept our way along the edge of a precipice nearly a hundred feet high, overhanging a ravine, at the bottom of which ran the rippling stream which passes Miaunderreh ; on our left rose the steep side of a hill, thickly clothed with the wintry forest ; and here and there fantastic masses of grey rock started forth from a verdant covering of creeping plants, mosses, and primroses. An hour's travelling brought us down to the bed of the river, in which we continued our march for about a mile and a half, and then commenced an ascent, most painful and difficult for the horses. Hitherto the sharp frost of the morning had hardened the ground, but the sun was now high in the heavens, and having softened the frozen mud, rendered it very slip- pery ; this, and the steepness of the path, made it all but impracticable. In many places we were compelled to dismount and lead our horses, which were dreadfully exhausted by the continual struggle. This lasted till we reached a level space, about four miles from the summit of the mountains, at a sufficient height above the sea for the snow to lie on the ground. Here we halted for some minutes, to allow the tired animals to take a little breath. We had left our baggage far behind, making slow and laborious progress, as the cattle rolled over almost every instant, and the muleteers were incessantly engaged in replac- ing the fallen loads. On looking above us, high masses of rock, covered with snow, rose like an impassable barrier ; and it was to me a matter of curious 617 4f ASTRABAD TO TEHRAN. conjecture,as to how and where we should pass it. Our guide, however, assured us that as we proceeded the road would open upon us, and that we should soon reach the ridge. The intermediate path was difficult ; and we were forced to walk the greater part of the way. Near the top there was half a foot of snow on the ground ; and the icicles hung on the branches of the trees, among which I observed several firs. At last we attained the summit, and commenced a gradual descent by a broad, dry, and well-beaten road. The country as we proceeded presented a very different aspect to that which we had lately been traversing, for the hills were now half bare, merely dotted here and there with a few stunted firs. We soon got below the range of the snow, and continued the descent along a deep and narrow valley till half-past three in the afternoon, when we arrived at some caves in the side of the mountain, where we intended to halt for the nigbt. The hill in which these caves are excavated is of a clayey nature, which has facilitated the work. There are several of them, of sufficient extent to accommodate some twenty or thirty horses. The .place is called Megassee ; a clear rivulet flows near at hand, and it is a convenient halting-place for muleteers between Miaunderreh and Chehardeh, being nearly equidistant from both. 3. Chehaedeh. Having travelled about a mile, we turned east, over a level plain, where in summer the Governor of Astrabad encamps ; a small stream of delicious water runs through it : no doubt it must be an agreeable and cool residence in the hot season. The surrounding scenery, however, is dreary in the extreme ; the rocky barren mountains rise in rugged confusion, and exhibit no signs of animal or vegetable life, save occasionally a flock of wild sheep, and here and there a solitary stunted pine tree. About half a mile further we turned at a right angle into another plain, which gradually narrowed into a valley, and terminated in a steep rocky pass. The road lay over this, and about three-quarters of a mile on the other side we entered a curious defile, about three yards broad, the rocks rising on each side fifty or sixty feet perpendicularly, like immense walls, called the Shemsbirbour. A small stream flows through it, which was now frozen into an undulating surface of ice, and none of the horses being rough-shod, we had the greatest difficulty in getting through the pass. ' The whole length of the defile is not more than five or six hundred yards ; but we were full twenty minutes in passing it. On emerging from it, we ascended a gentle elevation, and entered a country per- fectly barren, without so much as a bush, and the scenery formed » dreary contrast to the beautifully-wooded districts we had left behind. Continuing some miles further over low hills, we came to Chehardeh. 4. ATANtJ — 20 miles. We left Chehardeh at ten o'clock, and, passing a mud imaumzadeh which stands on the confines of the village, proceeded in a south-westerly direction across a well-cultivated plain. It was watered by several rivulets, and everywhere dotted with the remains of small round towers. About three miles from the village we passed the ruins of a large, circular mud-fort. We continued three or four miles further, in the same direction, and then left the road, turning west over some low, barren hills, crusted with soda, for the purpose of witnessing a phenomenon, which had been mentioned to us wherever we had been. The spring was situated about seven miles from Chehardeh, in a wild and desolate- looking spot. We continued our march south, and reached Kellater, a village about three- quarters of a mile from the spring ; then turning south-west, we entered a plain surrounded by rocky mountains, and having the appearance of an immense basin. Towards the south-east, signs of cultivation were visible ; but by far the greater part was a waste, barely affording subsistence to a few flocks of sheep. After crossing the plain, we went over some low hills and arrived at Cheshmeh Allee (fountain of Allee, where we halted to see the springs). We left Cheshmeh Allee at three o'clock in the afternoon, and proceeding alternate- ly over low hills and narrow plains, we passed Astanek, around which was a considerable extent of cultivated land. A few miles further we reached the village of Baba Hafiz, enclosed within four walls, with towers at the angles, and looking like a square fort. 618 ASTRABAD TO TEHRAN. Continuing onwards, we crossed the Cheshmeh AUee stream, and turning south, arrived at the village of Ayanii, after a circuitous ride of five fursucks. 5. Tudabwab — 28 miles. « We left Ayanii early in the morning, and after travelling about two fursucks through solitary valleys among the mountains, came to a spring, from whence Damghaun and several surrounding villages were visible to the east, on the edge of a vast salt-plain, the commencement of the desert of Khorassan. The water was very good, and having refreshed ourselves and horses, we continued our route in a general westerly direction, through the same desolate scenery of plains and mountains, without seeing a single village or human being, far or near, to relieve the dreary monotony. The country was perfectly clear of snow, and the burning sun, the brown soil, and scorched vegetation gave one the idea of the close of autumn, rather than the middle of winter. After a fatiguing ride of seven fursucks, we arrived at Toodervah, situated in a long narrow valley. 6. Ahuwan — 20 miles. We left Tudarwar at nine o'clock, and a short and monotonous ride of twenty miles brought us to Ahuwan, at half-past two in the afternoon. The scenery was the same as that of the previous day, consisting of desert, plains, and mountains. We fell in with no villages ; but in one place, some miles to the right of the road in the desert, we could just discern the walls and ruin of a few. 7. SEMNUN. We left Ahuwan at ten o'clock, journeying west over the same description of country as that we had traversed for the last two days. Continuing our march, generally west, but sometimes winding round the bases of several excrescences at the foot of the mountains, we passed a ruined caravanserai, and came to a fountain, almost midway between Ahuwan and Semmin, which, from the straw and litter scattered about, seemed to be a frequent halting-place for muleteers. From this fountain the road lay west, through a, series of ravines formed by low hills, and finally brought us to the edge of an elevated slope, overlooking a vast plain, in the centre of which Semntin was visible, apparently not more than six, but in reality fourteen miles distant. The city had the appearance of the dark shadow of a cloud, and the road could be plainly traced far on the other side, till lost in the distance, which was bounded by a gentle rise, similar to the one on which we stood. The plain, till within a mile or two of the city, was desolate and barren. We arrived at Semmin at four in the afternoon. 8. Lasgibd — 26 miles. We left Semmin at ten o'clock, and proceeded across the plain, in a westerly direction. Fourteen miles from Semmin we arrived at the village of Surkeh. Continuing our march some twelve miles further, we came to Lasgird, twenty-six miles from Semmin. 9. Dbh-i-Nimak — 26 miles. At nine o'clock we took our departure from Lasghird, and crossing a wide plain, always keeping in a westerly direction, we arrived at Abdoollahbad, twelve miles from our starting-place. We were now in Irauk, having about a fursuck before crossed a bridge over a deep narrow chasm, formed by a stream of water, which divides this province from Khorassan. From this place we crossed another immense plain, with slight undulations on its surface, at the further extremity of which our purposed halting-place was visible. About four miles from Abdoollahbad we passed a deep, narrow ravine, which our guide pointed out as having formerly been notorious for murders and robberies. A ruined, and now deserted tower, is perched on a small eminence just above il. After a hot and fatiguing ride of twenty-six miles, we came to Deh-i-Nimak (salt village), where there is another of Shah Abbas's caravan- serais, and a mud-fort, similar in plan to that of Lasgird, but neither so large nor so perfect, having, in fact, almost crumbled to pieces. It is now inhabited by only eight families, who have been placed there by order of the Shah. We had been told that the water here was not drinkable, but we found it as good as at most other stations. 619 BAGHDAD TO TEH BAN. 10. KlSHLAK. At last we arrived at the fort or Tillage cf Pordeh, constructed also on the same plan as Lasgird. We now entered a division of Irauk, called Khaur. Continuing onwards, we passed in succession the villages Kaleh-Haraubeh, Mehtabad, Alleeabad, and Aradon. The remainder of our ride to Kishlak through this well-cultivated and well-watered district, was pleasant from its contrast with the barren and desolate country we had lately traversed. We passed many flourishing villages in the distance. 11. Eiwan-i-Kef — 20 miles. We departed from Kishlak at ten o'clock, and, going a little north of west, travelled over a more barren part of the plain for about two fursucks, when we entered a valley lying between low ranges of sandy hills. An intensely salt stream flowed through it, and the deposit on the edge was sometimes half an inch thick. Travelling about four miles through this valley, we passed the remains of an old fort, and entered an extensive plain, strongly impregnated with salt, and its eastern extremity totally uncultivated ; two fursucks further brought us to Eiwan-i-k^f, twenty miles from Kishlauk. 12. Palesht — 28 miles. Leaving Eiwan-i-kef, we reached Palesht, our last stage from the capital, after a hot and dreary ride of twenty-eight miles. At first, we had travelled over a barren plain along the skirts of the Elburz, and crossed several small rivulets flowing south, in which direction numerous fields and villages were to be seen in the distance. The last eight miles had been through a well-cultivated country. 13. Tehran— 20 miles. At ten o'clock we left Palesht, and rode along the foot of the mountains towards Tehran. The city lies in the middle of a hollow plain, and was not visible till we ascended an intervening hill, and were within four miles of it. {Sol/mes). No. 9. ASTEABAD to TEHEAN by DAMGHAN. 7 marches. For the first two stages to Ohasmah A li, vide No. 1 24. 3. Damghan — The road gradually descends to the plain of Damghan. 4. Bakhshabad — 10 miles. The road is good and hard, tending towards the mountains, and passing some remains of villages. 5. To Dae war— The road tends more towards the mountains. 6. Shahmibzad — 45 miles — 10 hours. The road first goes back to Toweh, then there is a long and steep ascent for four hours to Kasum Eudbar, whence the road is taken for a short time, but, instead of going through the narrow pass leading to Anaseram, it strikes off in a south- south-western direction through a most dreary tract without water to an eminence, whence Shahmirzad, though two hours distant is visible. There is a good deal of cultivation round this place. 7. Gotjb-i-Sufed — 25 miles ; 5^ hours. The road first crosses the mountains that gird Shahmirzad on the north through a very difficult pass, and it then enters the road up Route No. 124 near Anaseram. Thence, vide Koute No. 124. No. 10. BAGHDAD to TEHEAN. 30 marches — 500 miles — 139| hours. 1. Oeta Khan — 15 miles ; 3 hours and 45 minutes. Eoad level, through desert plain of alluvial soil ; general direction north-east. Water 'none on the march', must be taken out from Baghdad, there being only a limited supply at Orta Khan, and that brackish. Supplies none, except 620 BAGHDAD TO TEH11AN. occasionally a little milk and ghee from shepherds in the neighbourhood. Leave Baghdad by north-east gate of ci*y, and proceed across desert plain. At 6th mile cross low canal mounds trending in directions east and west. At 8th mile cross other lines of mounds. Here a small rivulet runs off right of road with moist grassy banks, but very nearly dry at this season of the year, also at this point pass off same side of road, brick ruin of Imamzada. Orta Khan consists only of a caravanserai, surrounded by a few mud huts. Encamping ground ample. No cultivation or villages this march. 2. Yakobia. — 14 miles 3J hours. — 29 miles. — 7J hours. Eoad same as last march, except steep and broken descent into and ascent from bed of Diala. Water none, until arrival at banks of Diala, where it is muddy, but plentiful and sweet. Supplies procurable of all kinds. Pass village of Hup-hup, Bahrez. At 9th mile, cross lines of canal mounds, and at 10th mile cross the remains of the once magnificent Nahrvran canal, dry at this season of the year. Its bed is about 100 yards broad, with steep banks about 50 feet in height. On north bank numerous mounds, apparently the Bite of an ancient town. At 12th mile cross some broken ground and ravines running down to the right bank of Diala River, at the ferry of Haweidha, where there is a caravanserai in good order, off left of road. Banks of river precipitous, breadth about 40 yards at its medium height. Cross the river by ferry-boat, capable of holding 15 horses with attendants, and occupying three minutes in transit. There are also two or three koofehs or bitumen boats of the country, that hold 8 or 10 persons. Date groves and cultivation on banks of river. Steep ascent from river's bed ; pass through the town, and encamp in open pastures on north-east side. There is also encamping ground for a small detachment on left bank of river, which greatly commands the right bank, and would make a very strong position for a force defending the passage of the river from the Turkish side. The river is fordable for horses, 100 yards above and 2 miles below the ferry. Takooba is now partly ruined, situated upon high ground surrounded by gardens and cultivation. No villages on this march. 8. Shehbaban — 27 miles, 5 hours and 50 minutes. — 56 miles — 13 hours. Eoad very winding for the most part, through rich cultivation, and much cut up by beds of canals and water- courses, a few only of which are bridged over. Direction of road north north-east through alluvial and occasionally argillaceous soil level and with very few slight undulations. Water procurable on the march from some of the canals of very indifferent quality. The water in the Nahrood was stagnant, but drinkable at the point where the road crosses it. At Shehra- ban, muddy but sweet water is procurable from a deep canal close by encamp- ing ground. Supplies procurable of all kinds. At half mile cross water- course, and another at 1 mile, both by trunk bridges. At 5th mile cross dry bed of a cut from the Xhorassan Canal, and at 6th mile broad and deep canal by trunk bridge about 3 feet broad. At 8th mile cross deep marsh between two water- courses, and at 12th mile cross ridge of low mounds with stony soil. At 16 mile cross canal by trunk bridge ; between this and 22nd mile pass through extensive cultivation and villages surrounded by trees about a mile off both sides of road one of which called Wujjahea off right is the usual half-way stage between Yakooba and Shehraban, also pass several small Imamzadas in fields off left. At 22nd mile cross deep, but narrow, canal called the Nahrood by ancient brick-bridge in bad repair. This canal runs nearly parallel to the road from 16th to 22nd mile and small watercourses, cut from its bed to irrigate the adjoining fields intersect the road every few yards- After crossing the Nahrood by a bridge of one arch, pass brick Imamzada off right of road, and the road winds along lanes and trees to the village of Shehraban. Cross a stream just before entering ^ate of village, pass through and encamp on north, on which side are several caravan- serais in the suburbs. Shehraban is a walled village, once a large and extensive town, but owing to misgovernment, is now falling into decay. The greater part of the walls and houses are in a ruined state, but a wet ditch still surrounds the place on three sides. The houses are covered with nests of storks which give them a very extra- ordinary appearance. The district all round is very fertile, and its cultivators now form almost the only inhabitants of the place. The village is strongly situated on high ground, and has withstood many sieges in former years. 621 BAGHDAD TO TEHKAN. A. Kizl Rabat — 18 miles ; 4 hours and 45 minutes.— 74 miles — 17J hours. Road good, except in several places in the pass over the Hamereen Hills, where it is very steep, rugged and narrow, over the slippery face of the sandstone rocks much cut up by deep mule tracks. Impassable in its present state for wheeled carriages. General direction north-east to top of pass, thence north-east ; soil alluvial and argillaceous to the Belladrooz ; thence to River Kizl over gravel, and gray sand- stone rock ; thence alluvial and argillaceous as before. Water on the line of march from the Belladrooz Ccanal and the Kizl River, and other lesser streams sweet and abundant. At Kizl Robat, from a canal from the Diala, which runs about half mile off Supplies procurable of all kinds. At £ mile cross dry bed of broad water-course, and a deep canal at 2nd mile by trunk bridge, traverse a range of low gravelly mounds at 3rd mile, and cross another canal by trunk bridge, At 5 miles cross the Belladrooz Canal by brick bridge, in bad repair. This canal is broad and deep, and has a strong current. Numerous deep and precipitous ravines run down towards the canal at thjs point, and the road arrives at the bridge itself by some very steep and rugged descents into the bed of the ravines. This is reported to be the favourite post of ambush for Arab plunderers, gangs of whom infest the road from this place to the top of the pass in the Hamreen Hills, making this march a very unsafe one for small caravans. Soon after crossing the bridge, commence ascent towards pass over Hamreen hills which is about 4 miles in length, and very steep and difficult in parts. After numerous undulating ascents and descents, reach the summit of highest ridge, from whence an excellant view of surrounding country is obtainable, the villages of Shehraban, Kizl Robat, and the windings of the Diala clearly visible, steep gravelly descent from top of pass into a valley covered with green pastures full of antelope. At 12J mile, descent becomes very gradual, until the Kizl river, which is crossed by a ford about 3£ feet deep at 13£ mile. This is a fine clear stream, about 30 feet broad, tributary to the Diala. Hence to Kizl Robat road passes through green fields and well-watered cultivation which surrounds the village. No villages passed on this march. Kizl Robat is a large walled village, on a canal cut from the Diala, which river runs about a mile to the north. Encamping ground ample either on north-east or south-west ; the latter preferable, being close to the canal and about f mile from the Diala. 5. Khanikeen — 17 miles— 4 hours— 45 minutes.— 91 miles— 22j hours. At | mile cross broad dry bed of watercourse which runs parallel to left of road for some yards. Here also pass some mounds and ruins on both sides, parti- cularly on right, where they are close to road. At 1 mile cross small canal by narrow brick bridge ; at 1J miles cross by broad brick bridge in good repair large canal with high banks running across plain ; pass some low mounds on left, and at 4 miles enter defile through range of low hills running about north and east ; at 4i miles steep ascent for about 200 yards. Thence steep descent to 5J miles, when it becomes gradual and undulating, entering a valley with low spurs of the range of hills just crossed (the Khooshk Dagh) run- ning down, and extending far into plain, on both sides of road. At 10j miles these spurs give a defile, which is followed by gentle descent into undulating plain to 12th mile. At 12J miles cross dry bed of mountain torrents, full of boulders, and at 13 miles another deep bed with high steep banks. At 14 miles pass large pool of clear water on left, apparently a spring running away in a small stream to north. At 14£ miles cross ridge of low gravelly hills from the top of which the town of Khanikeen is visible embosomed in gardens and plan- tations of date and poplar. Here a small town called Aliabad lies about 3 miles off left of road. At 15| miles cross deep canal by broad brick bridge in good repair. Thence road passes along a causeway about 20 feet in breadth of large rounded pebbles, which commences at the suburbs, circles round south side of town by river's bank, and thence forms the roadway of a lofty brick bridge of 13 arches which spans the Hulwan at the 16th mile, .pross the river and pass through suburbs on north side of town, where are several caravanserais. At 17 miles cross a canal by bridge in good repair, and encamp on either side of road in an elevated plain without trees or vegetation. Opposite Khanikeen is Haji Kara. Khanikeen is situated upon the river Hulwan, a tributary of the Diyula, is the fron- tier town of Turkish Irak, and a quarantine station. Road good throughout 622 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. this march, over brown sandstone and gravel which has worn down in the hill passes, forming an excellent roadway ; general direction east until first ascent of Khooshk Dagh hills, thence north-east. Water limited on first part of march, but plentiful between the 13th mile and the Hulwan river, at Khanikeen from the canal from the river running close by encamping ground on north of town or from the river itself. Supplies procurable of all kinds. 6. Kusr-i-Shirebn — 107 miles— 40J hours — 16 miles — 4 hours — 18 minutes. Cross two ridges of low hills at 1 and 2 miles respectively, then descend gra- dually, and cros9 deep dry beds of two torrents running down from hills, spurs from which extend down into valley on right. At 3 miles, pass a steep isolated rock on left. A little further on, enter defile, and at 4£ miles steep ascent to top of ridge, thence gradual descent and across dry bed of torrent ; ascend through defile ; cross steep rocky ridge, and at 6| miles, cross another dry bed of torrent ; thence undulating ascent followed by long and very steep and rugged descent to 7i miles where a stream crosses the road. Here on left is a little valley or basin almost entirely surrounded by high and precipitous trap rocks through which the frontier line dividing the Turkish and Persian territories passes. At about 8 miles cross three low hill ridges in succession, and the broad dry bed of a stream ; another low ridge at 10 miles, followed by short steep ascent at the 11th mile; at )2 miles, cross two ridges divided by several small streams, afte which pass a small spring of clear water on left, and cross a stream followed by a low rocky ridge at about 13i*miles. Thence short steep descent to a point where a bend of tne Hulwan river runs close to right of road, which thence lies parallel to the river's bank along the foot of high rocky hills on left, beyond which on the north west a remarkable lofty and isolated hill is visible, a good landmark. Encamping ground about half a mile from the bend of the river above described, on right bank," level but limited in space ; ample ground on left bank of river, which is easily fordable, and this site would be a strong position for an army. The village lies among the hills about half a mile up the river. No villages in this march. Kusr-i-Shireen consists merely of a caravanserai surrounded by a few huts. It is the frontier station of Persian Irak, and is garrisoned by a detachment of 100 regular infantry. Road generally rugged and bad, with many steep ascents and descents over bare rock, much cut up by mule tracks. No vegetation until arriving at the bank of the Hulwan. Direction at starting north-east, soon after changing to east-north-east, and from river's bank to encamping ground north-east. Water plentiful, from watercourses, the Hulwan river and clear and good. Supplies none. 7. Sie-i-pool-i-Zohab — 125 miles — 454 hours — 18 miles— 4 hours — 45 minutes. Leaving encamping ground on right bank of Hulwan, ascend along steep side of hills on left cross a deep ravine down which a rapid torrent rushes to join the river which here runs close to right of road. Thence short, steep and rocky ascent to top of plateau on which are the caravanserai and village of Kusr-i-Shireen. Pass the serai (which is in good order) on left and through the ruins of the ancient town and palace beyond, extending for a circumference of about 5 miles and enclosed by a ruined wall, constructed like the other ruins of huge masses of hewn stone. At If miles steep descent into undulating valley cross low ridge at 3J miles, and pass large masses of ruins on both sides of road, apparently the remains of an ancient aqueduct. A little farther on, the Hulwan abuts on right and runs along that side of road for some distance. At 4 miles cross another low ridge, and pass a small village off right of road. At 4J miles cross steep rocky ridge, where are the remains of a stone wall of Cyclo- pean masonry crossing the valley and connecting two rocky mountains. At 4? miles cross low ridge and dry bed of torrent, thence asceDd to top of ridge which is reached at 7 miles, road passing for part of the way up the dry bed of a torrent. Hence very steep and rugged descent ; cross small stream, followed by short steep ascent of 5 mile, thence over high table land to 8th mile, whence short steep descent into gently undulating valley, intersected by numerous streams. At llf miles commence steep and rugged ascent. Here some extra- ordinary masses of trap rock rise from plain on right of road, The ascent is 323 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. about a mile in length and very rooky and difficult. At 13 miles pass through defile in low range of stony hills trending about north-west and south-east On a hill on left of road is a solitary stunted oak tree surrounded by a wall a good land mark) ; from this a long steep descent into the valley of Zohab, which is richly cul- tivated, and is watered by the Hulwan and other smaller streams. At 14§ miles cross a small river, tributary to the Hulwan, called the Kara Boolac. Here is a small white obelisk on left of road. Cross numerous watercourses which irrigate the cultivation of the valley, and at 17J miles arrive at the village of Sir-i-pool-i- Zohab ; pass through village, and cross the Hulwan by an ancient brick bridge of four arches and encamp on left bank in grassy plain. From this village Zohab is 8 miles north. Sir-i-pool-i-Zohab is a small ruined village with a caravanserai and some huts of Eelyats ; there are 100 infantry in garrison. The direction of the road at starting north-west for first 3 miles, thence east south- east to end of march until arrival in the valley of Zohab. The road is one succes- sion of rugged and difficult ascents and descents over rocky ridges ; it could, however, be easily made passable for artillery. Water good and plentiful, from numerous streams, and the Hulwan river. Supplies procurable of every kind. 8. Miyan Tak. — 15 miles — 4 hours and 3 minutes — 140 miles — 49| hours. Road at starting tolerably level, but rugged in a direction south-south-east for 2J miles. After emerging from the defile in the lime-stone rocks, it changes to east- south-east and to foot of pass is undulating and rugged in parts, but generally good. The ascent of the Tak-i-Gharra is very precipitous and difficult, but it might be much improved without difficulty by clearing away the boulders of rock which now cover the road, and make it slippery and dangerous. From the summit of Miyan Tak the road is extremely rugged and has not apparently been touchet since Khosroo Parvez's time. Water good and plentiful from the Roojab, in the valley below the Ghauts. Thence there is little or no water until encamping ground, where there is a fine mountain torrent. Supplies none. Leave en- camping ground on left bank of Hulwan, and at 2| miles pass through short defile in Dakani Daod Range of lime-stone rocks that here divide the valley, thence cross several undulations, and a rapid torrent called the Roojab at 4 miles. At 5 miles cross a broad water-course, and at 5| dry bed of torrent. Hence pass along side of a range of high grassy hills from the Bishiweh plain, on the left a ' spur from the Ghauts. At 7f miles cross the moun- tain torrent previously mentioned, which runs along the road for many yards. At 8 miles pass stone ruin of water-mill on left bank of torrent, which here runs off right side of road. At 8| miles, pass small white obelisk on mound on right of road. The village of Pai Tak lies about f a mile to the right up the valley, where there is a fine ruined bridge. Thence commence ascent to foot of main pass, up the Ghauts of Zagros, called the Tak-i-Ghurra. Ascent is steep and rugged until the 9th mile, when it becomes dangerously precipitous, passing over naked slippery rock, covered with huge masses of stone and boulders. Nothing but manual labour could get guns up this portion of the march, but it is practicable for a mountain train. The heights above cannot be crowned. The difficult portion of ascent is about 1 mile in length ; in some parts, the road-way merely consists of a ledge about 10 feet broad, cut up the bare face of the rocky mountain, with precipices above and below. About half-way up the ascent is the ruin of an arched toll-house, called by the natives the Arch of Ferhad, but generally supposed to have been built in the time of the Parthian Kings Gotarjes or Nologeses. On arrival at the summit, a long, steep, and very rugged descent of about 4 miles through a thin jungle of stunted Koordish oak brings you to the ruined caravanserai and village of Miyan Tak, consisting of a few stone huts, with a garrison of 100 Infantry, situated in a dell surrounded by high and precipitous hills, on the sides of which are stunted oaks and poplars. En- camping ground contracted and irregular, on the green wooded slopes running up to the foot of the rocky hills on left of road." 9. Kiehind — 14 miles— 4 hours and 8 minutes — 154 miles — 53J hours. " Direction of road at starting south-south-east, most execrable, over rugged un- dulating ground for the first 5J miles, when it emerges upon the plain of Kirrind, and becomes level and good through rich loamy soil with cultivation. At 7i miles, 624 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. direction changes to south-east. Water plentiful throughout this march from numerous streams, and at encamping ground from the Ab-i-Kirrind, and water-courses cut from it. Supplies procurable of all kinds. For the first 2j miles the road passes over steep ascents and broken ground, very rugged and difficult, through scattered jungle. Thence it opens, and you enter a little valley, between lofty hills, watered by a stream which is crossed five or six times during this part of the march. At about 5 miles a steep rugged ascent of about half-a-mile brings you to the elevated plain of Kirrind, about 20 miles long by 5 broad, richly cultivated, and watered by a. stream called the Ab-i-Kirrind and other streams. On reaching the summit of the last ascent, pass remains of small fort on right of road called Sir-i-meel. At 6J- miles, pass small village with some trees under hills off left of road called Huluteh. At 7^ miles, cross small stream, and a little further on, pass a white domed building on left and the ruins of a village on right, called Deh-goomeh. At 8J miles, cross stream running down from village under hills about a mile off left of road called Hurree, surrounded by poplars and other trees. At 13 miles, cross numerous water-courses and the stream called Ab-i- Kirrind (a tributary of the Karasu) which rises in a beautiful spring situate in a dell between the two high rocky hills, on the sides of which the town of Kirrind is built ; pass a caravanserai on left of road and through vineyards and gardens, and arrive at the ample encamping ground in grassy plain about 1 mile to east of town. From Kirrind another road goes to Kirmanshah, Kirrind is romantically situated in a gorge between two precipitous hills. The name of the high hill on east side of town is Shi-Kuroch, and is about 1,200 feet high. From its summit the snow capped hills of Behistan beyond Kirman- Bhah all are visible." 10. Haboonabad. — 20 miles — 4 hours and 40 minutes — 174 miles — 58j- hours. " Direction of road at starting east- south-east ; level and good through pastures and cultivation until the 9th mile, when it becomes rugged and undulating, until the 11th mile; thence in a south-east direction level and good. Water plentiful from stream on the march and from three large streams at Haroonabad. Sup- plies scanty. At 4 miles cross stream which, overflowing its banks, creates a marsh, and pass over some rugged broken ground; at 5 miles pass small village of Dehsuffeed on right of road ; a little further on cross another stream, and at 6 miles pass small spring on right called Chesma-suffeed ; at 7 miles cross a stream, and at 9 miles the hills close to both sides of road, between which and 11th mile are two difficult rocky portions of road over steep ridges ; cross at 14 miles a road running probably from Sehna to Ghitan." "At 19j miles, road passes along valley between two ranges of hills, that on the right is called Durwanzurd, and the hills on left Baghlanee and Tak-took. Encamp on either side of road in grassy but moist and unhealthy ground north-west side of Haroonabad. From Haroonabad a road goes by Mendau to Baghdad. " Haroonabad is a small village with a caravanserai situate upon three streams, two of which are called Ab-i-Haroonabad, and the third Chakeleeeheh ; the inhabitants are Eelyats, who leave the village and encamp in the plains in winter. It lies under high hills at the head of the Kirrind Valley." 11, Maheedtjsht — 22 miles — 5 hours and 30 minutes — 196 miles — 63J hours. " Boad at starting south-east for a few miles, thence north-east to top of the Charzabber, thence east by north to Mahedusht. Bugged and undulating the whole way to the foot of the Nalshikkun pass in Zobeideh Valley. Level and good across the valley, thence rugged and bad to foot of descent into plain of Mahidusht, the rest level and good. The Nalshikkun is precipitous and im- practicable in places, but the heights could be crowned Water plentiful and good from streams and springs on the march, at Mahidusht from a muddy stream, scanty but sweet. Supplies procurable from Kirmanshahan and the surrounding country. Pass through the village of Haroonabad, and cross three streams in succession by rugged stone bridges ; pass a conical hill on right, and soon after hills close to both sides of road, giving a steep rocky ridge which is crossed at 2| miles. At 3J miles, cross dry bed of torrent and a little further on a low ridge with a small stream flowing at the bottom ; here enter defile between low green hills covered with brushwood and stunted trees ; 625 4g BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. at 4J miles, steep but short ascent to top of pass called Mshikkun ; thence long rugged and precipitous descent of pass brings you at 8f miles into the valley of" Zobeideh, about 4 miles broad, richly cultivated, and watered by a stream called Hajeegah, which crosses the road at llf miles running down from village of Darkhoob on left, situate on side of hills north of valley. At 12f miles, ascend the pass over range of hills called Charzubber, by short steep ascent, thence long descent of about 6 miles into the plain of Maheedusht, At 13f miles pass spring of good water on left of road ; at 14J miles, 5 or 6 water- mills in ravine on same side, worked by a rapid torrent called Chesma-i-Char- zubber, which runs along side of road for about J 00 yards. At foot of long descent, the village of Charzubber lies about 1 mile on left of road, and in the plain about 5 miles beyond that village, is visible a high mound with the ruins of what is supposed to be an ancient fire temple of the Ghebers, called Goree. At 18J miles, cross small stream running down from village under hills off right of road. At 22 miles, cross the river of Maheedusht by a fine brick bridge in good repair, and encamp in grassy plain on right bank, where is a large caravan- serai and a few huts of which the village consists. Between Maheedusht and Haroonabad are three passes. 12. Kekmanshahan. — 14 miles — 4 hours and 10 minutes — 210 miles— 68 hours. Road level and good across plain of Maheedusht for first 4 miles, thence over a succession of ridges in the range of mountains west of Kermanshahan. General direction east by north. Water from streams on the march. At Kermanshahan from a small river running through the city and irrigating the neighbouring coun- try a tributary of the Karun. Supplies plentiful of every kind. Leave encamping ground on banks of the stream, pass the caravanserai on left and proceed across plain to foot of rocky hills. At 5| miles commence steep ascent over first rocky ridge. After reaching top of which road passes through a defile in the hills until the 8th mile, whence a continued series of steep and rugged undulations over this range of hills (at 6 miles cross small stream). At about 11 miles, road passes along the side of hills on left, and on right is the commencement of a long narrow valley sloping down to the plain of Kermanshahan, filled with trees and gardens ; the city being built on the spot where the valley debouches into the plain. On approaching the city steep descent to foot of walls, circle round, or pass through and encamp in plain on north side of city. Kermanshahan, is the capital of the province of that name. 13. Besitoon. — 21 miles — 6 hours — 231 miles — 73 hours. " Boad generally level and good ; the last half slightly undulating. General direc- tion east to banks of Kara-sii, thence east by north to encamping ground. Water from the Kara-sii and smaller streams on the march ; at Besitoon from a spring rushing out of the rock, forming several tributaries to the Garmisiab, which flows into the Kara-su. Supplies procurable from Kerman- shahan. At f mile, cross stream in suburbs of city working two flour- mills. Thence gradual descent through plain to the basin of the Kara-su, which river is crossed by a large brick-bridge at the 4th mile. Thence approach the foot of the lofty mountains of Behistan which the road skirts at about 2 miles distance off our left. At 7 miles, pass walled village on left in plain, and at 9 miles large village on low hills off right. At 13 miles, pass through remains of marble walls and columns, scattered over the ground for some distance, apparently the site of some ancient temple. Here the low hills on right close into that side of road, cross a stream, and hence the road undulates over low spurs of high mountains on left. At 20 miles, slight descent to the foot of the Peak of Peeroo, which rises abruptly from the plain to the perpendicular height of 1,700 feet, where there is a ruined caravanserai and some stone huts. Encamping ground on right of road among fields rather confined, owing to the broken nature of the ground, which is intersected by numerous streams tributary to the Gamasiab flowing down from the Peak of Peeroo. Here are some extensive and yery perfect bas-reliefs and cuniform inscriptions of Darius, high up in the face of the precipitous rock, the greater portion of the lower part of which has been scarped and smoothed for further sculpture, with the remains of terraces reaching to the plain. 626 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. 11. Sehna— 17 miles — 3 hours and 58 minutes. — 248 miles — 77 hours. " Road reported dangerous, over-run by plundering Lurs. Direction after leav- ing the foot of the rocks of Peeroo, north-east for some distance, thence generally east-north-east, to end of march. Road very winding through culti- vation and marshy ground, for first 6 miles j thence over undulating plain to foot of the JLujjawar Shikkan, where is a long rugged ascent followed by gentle descent to the Sehna Valley. "W ater plentiful from the Gamasiab and water- courses. Supplies procurable of all kinds. At starting pass close under Peak of Peeroo on our left, and at 1^ miles cross the river Deenaver, a tributary of the Gamasiab, by a lofty brick-bridge in bad repair ; and a little further on by a bridge, a deep canal cut from the Gamasiab, which here flows on right of road. At 2j miles, pass through small village of H adirabad. At 5 miles, cross by a bridge a small stream called the River of Zurdabad, running down from a village of that name lying off left of road. At 6f miles, cross deep canal by bridge, and pass a small scattered village on artificial mounds on right, at the foot of which are poplar plantations. Jt 7j miles the river Gamasiab again abuts on right of road. At 8 miles, cross canal by bridge, and village of Sainanghan off left of road. At 9 miles, another bend of the Gamasiab approaches close to right of road, which here passes under a high precipitous hill on left called Shamaran. At 10^ miles, cross canal by bridge and pass the Tillage of Akbar Khan of road. At 11§ miles, pass on right of road a small fort on high mound, called Hassan Khan, now ruined, and used as a caravanserai ; afterwards cross several water-courses which irrigate the fields in the valley. At 12 miles, another bend of river on right, and at 15 miles cross spur of low rocky hills by a pass called Eujjawar Shikkun. Hence des- cend into well-watered and cultivated valley to Sehna, which is situated among beautiful gardens and plantations at the foot of a range of precipitous rocky hills, where are some ancient caves and sculptures. Encamping ground good and ample on banks of stream on north-east of town. Sehna is a small, but flourishing town of the Ali Illahi sect. 15. Kungawab. — 18 miles — i\ hours. — 266 miles — 41i hours. " Road rough and stony for the greater part of this march, and in some places impassable for wheel-carriages. General direction north-north-east to 8th mile, thence north-east to encamping ground. Water plentiful and good from numerous streams. Supplies procurable of all kinds. At starting leave town on left, cross several streams, all tributaries of the Gamasiab. At 2 miles, enter defile of low hills ; close on left and f mile distant on right At 3 miles, pass small spring of fresh water on right of road. At 4 miles commence ascent of the hills on left and pass village off right called Beesoorkh at 4f miles. Thence gradual descent into valley, and at 5 miles pass high artificial conical mound in valley on right, at the foot of which are some stone ruins. Here a fine stream crosses the road gushing out from a spring in hillside on left. Hence steep ascent of main range commences. At 5§ miles, a road crossing the hills by another pass turns off to left front. At 7 miles, pass village in a dell under rocky hills about 1 mile on left of road. At 7| miles, arrive at top of pass : thence long steep descent of about 2J miles. At 9J miles, pass small walled fort in valley 2 miles off right of road, and on reaching the bottom of descent cross low ridge by gradual inclines. At 13 miles, pass a village off right, and a little farther on, another under farther slope of hill off same side. At 14 miles, cross two broad water-courses running from left to right, and at 14| miles cross the small river Kabooter-Lana by a fine brick -bridge in good repair. Thence short ascent, and cross a deep water-course by bridge. At 16 miles, ford a small stream, and at 17 miles enter suburbs of town of Kaugawar Pass, through or round east side of town, and encamp among fields and grassy pastures. Kangawar (the ancient Concobar) is built upon a series of artificial. and natural mounds, covered with remains of ancient buildings. On a hill overlooking the town, are the extensive brick ruins of a fortress or citadel. This district is noted for its fertility and the number of its villages. 16. Assudabad — 22 miles — 5j hours. — 288 miles — 86J hours. " Road excellent throughout over alluvial soil, except between 5th and 6th miles, where it is rugged and stony. Direction at starting north-east, and after 627 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. descent into Assudabad Valley north by east, and subsequently north-east by north. Water plentiful and good from streams and water-courses. At en- camping ground from a torrent, sweet but rather muddy. Supplies procurable of every kind. Proceed through richly cultivated plain covered with walled towns and villages. At 4| miles cross low ridge and at 5f miles cross broad rocky rugged ridge, whence descend into another richly cultivated and populous valley extending to the foot of the lesser range of the El wand Mountains. At 6| miles, cross small stream called Ser-i-ab-i-kherreh flowing down from village under hill about 1 mile off left of road called Jafferabad. At 8 miles pass small spring on right of road running in a stream down to village off that side called Deh-i-noosh. At 1 miles pass walled town about 2 miles off left called Beefooneh, and at 11 miles cross a deep pool of stagnant water called Sujahgur, by a fine brick-bridge of 4 arches in good repair. This bridge is built at right angles to the general direction of road, and is a good land- mark. At 12^ miles pass mound on left of road called Koosheh-Tuppeh, close by which rises a small stream of the same name. At 14 miles pass through large village of Vinderabad, the portion on right of road surrounded by ruined mud wall, within which is a lofty artificial mound ; pass a spring on left of road, and at 15 miles pass large village off same side. At 16 miles pass through village of Deb-i-Boozan, where is another spring of water. From this, lines of Kanats lie along side of road reaching to Assudabad. At 17 miles pass small town surrounded by poplar trees off left of road. At 18 miles a road branches off to right front, apparently leading direct to the main pass over the Elwund mountain avoiding the town of Assudabad. At 20£ miles enter suburbs of town, pass through and encamp on sloping plain on north-east by the side of small torrent, high and ample in extent. " Assudabad is a small walled town of 3,000 inhabitants surrounded by gar- dens and well watered by streams from the hills, which flow through the Btreets of town. In the valley, about 3 miles higher up, is a strong fort on a high mound, with a village at its foot called Khareez. 17. Zagha. — 14 miles— 4 hours.— 302 miles— 90J hours. " General direction of road at starting north-north-east, which changes to north by east and north-east during the ascent over the mountains, the last part of march east by north. The pass is steep and rugged in parts, but is in no place impassable for artillery, and the heights in the immediate neighbourhood of the road could be crowned throughout ; the rocks consist of slate with occasional patches of quartz and granite. Water good and plentiful from innumerable streams. Supplies procurable from Hamadan and the surrounding country. At start- ing, proceed by gradual ascent to foot of mountains, crossing a rapid torrent repeatedly. At If miles pass some ruins on side of hill on left of road. Here the road diverges, that to right front leading straight over mountain range very difficult and impracticable for baggage animals heavily laden. The other road circling . round to left and crossing a low spur of Elwund Mountain. This last is recommended to travellers and is described accordingly. On leaving the ruins above-mentioned, commence steep ascent of the lower range of hills, and at 3 miles pass small village in ravine oflr left of road, with a small ruined fort on opposite slope of ravine just above it. Hence, slight descent ; and cross two torrents at the bottom of a ravine at the 4th mile. Thence steep ascent to highest point of pass which is reached at 4g miles. The mountain of Elwund and the heights off right covered with snow. Hence gradually descend, cross stream at 5 miles, and another at 6 miles. At 65 miles pass small village off left of road, thence ascend, and at 7i miles pass large village of Tajabad off same side, cross a stream, and reach top of ridge at 9 miles. Thence gradual descent into fertile and well-cultivated plain, pass a village under mountain off right of road, and at 11 miles pass large mud ruins on left. Here road leading to village of Zagha turns off to right the high road to Humadan continuing in a north-east direction. At 11£ miles, cross broad and deep stream running down to plain from mountains off right The right bank of stream high and steep. At 13 miles pass through village of Seemeen (between this village and the stream above-mentioned is fine encamping ground and strong position for an army off right of direct Hamadan Eoad); cross a stream 628 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. between Seeman and Zagha, pass round right of latter village, and encamp on rocky slopes overlooking the village, high and open but rather stony ground. Zagha is a small walled village on the direct mountain road to Hamadan, sur- rounded by rich cultivation. 18. Hamadan. — 11 miles — 3| hours. — 313 miles — 94 hours. " Road rugged and difficult throughout, and much cut up by streams ; near Hamadan it is mostly under water, swampy, and almost impassable. Direction north-east by east until 3rd mile, thence south-east by east to Hamadan. Water abundant and good from streams. Supplies procurable of every kind. On leaving encamping ground, slight descent overrocky ground until the 3rd mile, when road turns a low rocky spur of hills on left. Cross a stream, and at 4 miles pass village off right of road. At 5 miles cross another stream running down through thick groves from village under hills cff right. At 7 miles cross broad stream by small brick bridge iu bad repair. Hence to suburbs of city, road passes along the rocky beds of streams which inundate their neighbourhood and render the road very swampy and difficult. Several villages and ancient ruins (parly of marble) lie on both sides. At 10 miles cross by stone bridge deep rapid stream on the banks of which the city is built, pass through city and encamp in sandy plain outside suburbs on north-east on either side of the broad high road to Tehran Hamadan contains about 5,000 inhabitants, and has extensive streets and bazars, down which streams flow. 19. Sooekhabad— 8 miles — 2 hours— 321 miles— 96 hours. " lioad generally level and good, throughout in a north-easterly direction, through an alluvial plain. Water procurable from streams and an aqueduct on the march, and from the River on which the village of Soorkhabad is built. Supplies pro- curable from Hamadan. Proceed along broad highroad, and at 1 mile ford stream, which, iu the rainy season, is crossed by a brick bridge about 200 yards higher up on right. Here the road passes under a high mound on right ; some low de- tached hills lie a short distance off left. At 2 miles pass large ruined village off left, and a little farther on, road circles round a lofty mud wall enclosing the ground garden of the house of governor of Hamadan ; thence pass a long lane between garden walls. At 2f miles arrive at a large fortified village of Shevereen, surrounded by double walls 60 feet high ; there is no road through this village, which has only one gate on south side. The ordinary road leads round to left, and is nearly 1 mile in circuit, but there is a narrow way for foot passengers round the right side of the village through some huts and enclosures, which is far shor- ter. After arriving at the further side of village, cross a water-course, and at 4 miles pass an Imamzada on mound left of road. Here some large boulders of dark red granite lie strewed about the plain. At 5 miles pass between two villages off either side of road, and cross two water-courses. At 5f miles pass the mud embankment on right of road, forming a Dund for the retention of water for a patch of cultivation ; also here pass a kanat of good water on left. Ascend and cross a short steep ridge, and arrive at tho bed of a small river, and encamp on its grassy banks, close to the ruins of an ancient brick bridge, on the opposite bank to village. Soorkhabad is a small village of about 500 inhabitants. 20. Beebeekabad — 20 miles — 4| hours — 341 miles — 100J hours. " Road level and good over undulating plain of gravelly soil to 14th mile, whence level alluvial plain to encamping ground. General direction north-east by east. Water procurable from streams and springs on the march, and from a kanat at encamping ground, plentiful and good. Supplies procurable of every kind. At starting ford the river to right of ruined bridge (which has been nearly washed away by the violence of stream, and is impassable), pass through the village of Soorkhabad, cross numerous water-courses, which irrigate the fields and gardens on both sides of road. At 1 mile cross a stream, and pass ruined village off right. Here the road passes under a range of low hills on left. At 2J miles pass a high isolated rock with scarped sides off right, formed of red ochreous stone, an excellent landmark for a great distance in the surrounding country. At 2J miles pass village off left, on a stream with a bridge, over which a direct road (avoiding Soorkhabad) leads from Hamadan, joining our road on the left a little further on. At 3 miles pass spring on left of road, from which a kanat on that side 629 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. commences. Here the road enters an open defile between low hills, thence emerging into undulating plain. At 85 miles pass spring on right of road. At 10 miles cross water-courses running from under low mounds on left. At 13j miles two other roads branch off to right and left fronts respectively, that to left leading over hills direct to Tehran ; pass ruined walled village on left, where is a fine spring of water. Thence gradual descent into grassy plain, full of villages, surrounded by poplar trees and cultivation. At 14^ miles road passes for about 100 yards along the dry bed of a stream. Hence no landmarks until arrival at stage. Pass the village of Beebeekabad on left of road, and encamp in alluvial plain on east of village by the side of a kanat, Beebeekabad is a large flourishing village, with some fine plantations and gardens. 21. Zebbeh — 17 miles— 4J hours— 358 miles— 104j hours. " Road .over level alluvial plain, much cut up by irrigation, for the first 13 miles ; thence over undulating country of gravelly soil. General direction east by south. Water plentiful throughout the march from streams and canals ; at encamping ground from a kanat in the hollow. Supplies scanty. At 1 mile ford two deep canals in succession, and at 2 miles cross a third by bridge. At 3J miles pass large straggling village on right, with mud ruins extending along road side for some distance. At 4| miles pass small fort off right of road, and at 5J miles cross a dry river's bed about 40 feet broad and 10 deep. At 6| miles pass through village of Jehanabad, and a small fort on high mound about 3 miles oft right of road (a good landmark). At 9J miles cross a water-course and pass a ruined village on right of road. At 10 miles, ford a broad canal, 3 feet deep ; and at 10J miles pass a large village with fort on right of road called Serjhan, and afterwards somemud ruins on left. At 11 1 miles ford a stream, and pass the village of Nusseerabad on right of road. At 13 miles cross a dry bed of river, and pass through the large straggling village of Ehoosheenabad. At 16 miles cross the dry bed of stream, and pass u nder village the and fort of Khooshejeh on right of road, and a spring of fresh water with a kannat on same side at 16| miles. Thence steep descent into hollow between two ranges of low tuppehs, where lies the small village of Zerreh on right of road ; encamping ground ample and good in hollow or on hillocks on left of road overlooking the village. No trees or cultivation. 32. Meeeik — 14 miles.— 3J hours— 372 miles — 108J hours. " Koad — rough and indifferent for first 4 miles, thence undulating to 9th mile, whence are some steep and rugged descents to 12th mile. General direction south by east to the point where direct road to Nooveran diverges, thence north-east to encamping ground ; soil, loam, sand, and conglomerate. Water procurable from streams and water-courses. Supplies none. Leave encamping ground in hollow, steep ascent round ruined fort, and through upper portion of village of Zerreh ; thence long descent into undulating valley between ranges of low hill close on left and distant on right. At 2 miles, road passes under hills on left, with deep dry bed of canal on right, which lies along- side for some distance. At 3 miles cross ridge of spur from hills on left after which valley becomes more open. At 4 miles water-course flows along right of road, and a little further on ford two other water-courses. Pass some ruins on right and the large village of Dowan about a mile off same side. At 5 miles ford water-course, and at 6J miles pass village of Goolgoolabad off left, of road ; and a little farther on same side, the ruined village of Kurrehdaie. At 9 mile, pass village of Zajhchehabad off left of road. Here a steep sandstone bluff abuts on right. At 9J miles steep descent, and at 10 miles cross a low sandstone ridge, and enter a small valley, down which a stream winds off right of road. Here the road diverges, the direct road to Nooveran proceeding in an easterly direction, that to Merrik turning off to left. Pass close under lofty and precipitous sandstone bluffs on left, and at 12 miles short rugged descent over a spur of this range, which here crosses the road and divides the valley. At 13 miles pass round lofty rock, cross torrent, and, after passing over un- dulating ground, arrive at Merrik, and encamp on east side among fields. Merrik is a small village built upon the site of a ruined town, situate in a dell between lofty hills, with a few trees and scanty cultivation, watered by a stream, on which the village is built. 630 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. 23. Nooveran — 17 miles — 4i hours — 389 miles— 112i hours. Road rugged and undulating throughout, and much cut up by torrent beds, but no- where very difficult. General direction east by south for first 2 miles, thence nearly due east. Water plentiful from streams throughout the march, and at Nooveran, from a fine spring rising in hills west of town, which flows in a torrent through encamping ground. Supplies procurable of every kind. At starting, pro- ceed across broken ground in southerly direction to regain the high road to Nooveran (which is reached at the 2nd mile). At 1 mile steep ascent through a rough and stony defile in range of low grassy hills, and after cross- ing the ridge, descend a long slope of hills on left. At 2| miles cross a dry bed of torrent, at 3| a stream, and at 4j-, dry bed of another torrent; thence ascend and cross steep rugged ridge at 5J miles, followed by a short bit of table-land, and a descent to 65 miles, where a small stream crosses the road. Here pass the rained village of Dookan on right of road, and at 9miles another extensive ruin on same side. Alittle further on, short ascent to table-land, and pass a small village among gardens in valley off right of road. At 9J miles descend into undulating plain and cross a dry bed of torrent at 11 miles. Here some low scattered hills lie on right of road, and some lofty ones about 1 mile off left. Cross two streams flowing from a beautiful spring, which is passed at 12 miles, and at 13 miles pass some ruined buildings and walls on right of road. At 14 miles cross three water- courses in succession, and at 15 miles pass high garden walls on left and the village of Nooveran Koochik in the valley beyond. A little further on, ford river about 3 feet in depth, the bed of which is about 100 yards broad (at this time of year only 30 feet of water) ; thence ascend and pass Government Toll House on right of road, and cross a deep water-course ; continue the ascent and cross steep ridge at 16 miles ; thence long undulating descent intersected by numerous water- courses which irrigate the trees and .gardens in a valley on right of road. At 16f miles cross another low ridge, and reach encamping ground on grassy slope on west side of town by the side of a clear stream. Nooveran is a flourishing little town, with some fine gardens. Population about 2,000. 21. Shamiean — 14 miles — 3| hours — 403 miles — 116 hours. " Road indifferent and broken the whole march, with some steep and difficult ascents and descents, chiefly the former ; road throughout much cut up by torrent beds. General direction about east to 9th mile, thence north-east. Water plentiful from streams on march and at encamping ground. Supplies scarce. Descend from encamping ground, cross stream at foot of declivity and pass through town of Nooverun, which is built on the sides of a steep hill round which the road ascends. At f mile pass some fine gardens and vineyards on right of road ; thence a steep short ascent. At 1 mile steep descent into a stony- undulating country, pass along lane between high garden walls, and at 2 miles cross stream and ascent to top of steep ridge, where pass fortified village on high mound on right called Azlagheh. In the valley below, watered by the stream before mentioned, are some ruins and flourishing gardens. At 2J miles steep descent into gently undulating valley with low hills on left. Here a road branches off to right, and another comes in from right rear, from beyond village of Azlagheh. At 5^ miles a road crosses from left rear, leading to- wards hills, off right, in the direction of Sawah At 6| miles cross dry bed of torrent ; thence ascend, cross stream, and pass village of Kazeeabad amid gardens and vineyards on right of road ; thence a succession of undulations and dry beds of torrents. At 8 miles pass close under low hills on left, and cross dry bed of broad stream running down from ravine in hills aforesaid. At 10 miles cross deep ravine with stream at bottom. Here pass under lofty trap rocks on right with a torrent winding at their base ; sloping grassy hills on left. At 10j miles pass some gardens and fine walnut trees on right. At 11 miles cross stream and commence steep ascent, and at 11£ cross a deep ravine down which runs tor- rent aforesaid ; thence road continually ascends following course of a ravine, with rocks on right high and precipitous. At 12 miles pass close to hills on right along- side of which road ascends. Below in valley on left are fine gardens watered by a torrent ; a little further on pass large village of Booverem, built on sides and top of a gravelly hill. Here a road turns off to left towards hills on that side. 631 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. Between this and the 13th mile cross three successive low ridges from hills on left. At 13J miles cross dry bed of torrent ; thence ascend to high rocky plateau on which the Tillage of Shamiran is built, cross a stream and pass through village, beyond 'which is an Imamzada on right of road, and encamp beyond oa alluvial slopes of hills on left. On right is a rapid torrent, above which are lofty and precipitous rocks. This encamping ground is irregular and confined. Better ground is obtainable on slopes on south-west side of village. Shamiran is situated on high ground surrounded by rocky hills. 25. Vebdeh — 20 miles — 5J hours — 423 miles — 121J hours. " Koad execrable for the first 4 miles, passing over a succession of deep rocky ravines and over alluvial soil cut up by overflowing water-courses, rendering it in many places almost impassable. From 4th to 7th mile tolerably level and good over gravelly soil ; thence to encamping ground it passes over a series of steep undulations, intersected by deep beds of torrents and by streams, and through some scattered tracts of cultivations. Direction about north-east to 10th mile, thence east to 18th mile, and thence north-east by east to encamping ground. Water plentiful from innumerable streams and water-courses. Supplies procurable of every kind. Leave encamping ground on north side of village, and pass along slopes of hills on left ; thence descend and cross deep ravine, down which flows a rapid and deep torrent. Hence pass between ranges of hills close on right and % a mile distant on left between this and 3J miles cross by steep and difficult gradients 3 deep ravines watered by torrents, the intermediate distance being overrun by a succession of water-courses deep and rapid. At 3j miles pass some remains of gardens and a ruined fort off right of road ; thence pass over a high and slightly undulating plateau. At 4 miles pass some gardens on right, watered by a stream which is crossed a little farther on ; hence the plateau slopes gently upwards to the 7th mile, whence long Bteep descent to 8th mile. Cross the dry bed of torrent, and a little farther a stream running down the ravine from right to left; thence steep as- cent and reach top of ridge at 8J miles, whence long gradual descent down the side of the high hills on left to 10th mile. Here the road diverges, one branch continuing the descent along the hill side, and proceeding in a north-easterly direction direct to Tehran by Khaniabad, which is the ordinary caravan route, but the stages are very long and there is a deficiency of water and supplies. The other road, which is recommended to travellers, proceeds in an easterly direction. After quitting the caravan road, pass some gardens on left watered by a stream flowing from a pool of water; thence ascend and cross ridge at 11th mile, thence cross deep ravine, ascend and pass gardens on right, and a large village in valley off left called Isfahanek. At 12 miles cross a high ridge whence descend into valley ; and at 12j miles cross dry broad bed of torrent running down from hills on right. At 15 miles pass Imamzada and village on right of road called Ishmail Peghumber ; thence short ascent and pass gardens and a stream on right of road at 16th mile, and a little farther on, cross several small streams tri- butary to the same. At 17? miles pass a fine grove of walnut trees on right, and at 18 miles pass through rich cultivation, and by gardens and trees, among which lies a small village. Hence long gradual descent, and after crossing two low rocky ridges, arrive at walled gardens in the suburbs of village of Verdeh at the 19th mile, between the high walls of which gardens the road passes, crossed by several streams which turn flour mills. Pass through village and encamp on high ground beyond, near gardens and orchards, watered by a stream flowing down from hills on right of road. Encamping ground ample but rather stony ; from this the lofty snow-capped mountain of Demavand is distinctly visible, bearing about east north-east. Verdeh is a flourishing village, surrounded by poplar trees and richly cultivated gardens. Its site is very lofty, but it is enclosed by hills on all sides, except the north, and is consequently rather confined in its atmosphere. 26. Amebkabad — 14 miles — 3f hours— 437 miles — 124f hours. Boad broken and difficult for first mile in south easterly direction, thence level and good over alluvial and sandy plain in a direction east by north. Between Punneejird and Zerrund road is broken and cut-up by water-courses. Water procurable from kanats and a stream on the march ; at Ameerabad 632 BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. from a stream in the town, plentiful but brackish. Supplies procurable of every kind. After leaving the encamping ground, cross deep ravine with torrents flowing down from hills off right ; thence gradual undulating ascent to the first mile, where pass some mud ruins on right of road ; thence gentle descent into vast alluvial plain. At 2 miles a road crosses north- west to south-east, probably from Kasvin to Sav6 ; and here the high hills off right turn off in a southernly direction, hence there are no landmarks until the 10th mile, where a, line of kanats crosses the road from north- west to south-east. At 11 miles pass mud ruins on left, and fine walled gardens about 1 mile off right watered by a kanat which here crosses under the road. Remains of various other obsolete kanats lie along left of road at this point. Pass some gardens and trees off left, and at llf miles pass ruins of a small fort on mound right of road ; thence pass village of Punneejird on right of road, beyond which pass nnder some high rocks on right, and garden on left at 12 miles. At 13 miles pass along lane between high garden walls, and in- tersected by numerous streams and water-courses. At 13s miles pass through the large ruined village of Zerrund, and a little farther a ravine at Ameerabad ; pass round right of town and encamp in sandy plain beyond. Ameerabad is a small town strongly fortified, with its walls and gates in a good state of preser- vation. 27. Peek — 15 miles — 3J hours — 452 miles — 128 hours. Road level and good through desert plain of sand and alluvium crusted with saline particles. General direction north-east. "Water brackish throughout, must be obtained from Kobat Kurreem or Verdeh. Supplies scanty. Leave encamping ground in plain east of town, pass some gardens on right, and through the villages of Mamoodabad and Khoorshedabad at 1 and 2 miles respectively. A kanat connects these villages, passing along right side of road. At 4J miles pass range of low hills on right and an isolated hill on left. At 5J miles cross a water-course, and at 5^ miles pass walled village off right under range of hills aforesaid, which here turns off in an easterly direction. At 6J miles pass under isolated mound on right of road, and a little farther on a ruined mud fort off same side. At 7 miles pass under the fortified village of Fyzabad on right of road, thence through scanty cultivation, and at 7f miles cross two water-courses. At 8 miles pass under range of low hills and an isolated conical mound in pla ; n off left (a good landmark). At 8J miles pass short defile of low hills aforesaid, and left of road are two low detached hills. At 9j miles, hills on right branch off to east ; at 10 miles, cross two deep dry torrent beds about 36 feet broad with precipitous banks of alluvial soil ; these are bridged over about 100 yards higher up on right, but the bridge is now ruined and impassable. These torrents when full would form a serious obstacle to the march of an army. At 11 miles cross a water-course, and a line of ruined kanats at 11J miles ; at 11J miles pass through some mud ruins, which spread for some distance off left of road. At 12J miles pass through village of Soolimanabad, and another village off right of road a little farther on. At 13j miles cross dry bed of stream, and at 13f miles pass through small ruined village of Peek, and encamp in a desert alluvial plain on north-east near to a water- course of brackish water. 28. Eobat Kukeim — 22 miles — 5 hours — 474 miles — 133 hours. Eoad level and good over alluvial soil in a direction east by north to foot of first range of low hills, thence east north east along undulating elevated plateau to bed of river, after which long and difficult ascent to 16th mile over broken ground and rocky ridges almost impassable for wheeled carriages. Hence level and good over gravelly soil to stream near the village. Prom encamping ground proceed across barren plain cut up by water-courses towards a range of low hills. At 2J miles commence gradual ascent through a defile ; reach summit of ridge at 3£ mile, thence proceed along gently undulating plateau over the top of range which the road crosses obliquely. At 4 miles a broad high road joins from left rear a caravan route referred to in the march from Shameran to Verdeh. At 9 miles pass ruins of ancient brick fort on left of road. At 12| miles gradual descent into a ravine, whence undulating ascent among confused range of hillocks. At 13J miles commence descent into valley, down which flows a. 633 4 H BAGHDAD TO TEHRAN. email river of brackish water at this time of the year, about 30 yards in breadth and 2 feet in depth, which is forded at 13f miles. Long winding ascent from the river's bed, and at 15 miles cross a very steep and rugged ridge. Thence the ascent undulates until the top of the plateau is reached at 16 miles. Here pass a large rained caravanserai of stone on left of road, situate on edge of declivity overlooking the river ; this spot is reported to be a notorious rendez- vous for plunderers. Hence traverse level gravelly plain for about 5 miles with no particular land marks. At 21 miles cross a stream of fresh water, after whioh pass along lane between high garden walls ; pass through village of Robat Kurreem and encamp in alluvial plain on the north-east of village, where there is some scanty cultivation. No cultivation or villages passed this march until arrival at stage. Robat Kurreem is a flourishing village with a caravanserai, and is surrounded by trees and gardens. There is no sweet water between this stage and Verdeh, a distance of about 51 miles. Water not fit for drinking until arrival at Robat Kurreem ; the river crossed at 14th mile is salt. At an encamping ground plentiful and good. Supplies procurable of every kind. 29. Koolmeh— 8 miles— 2 hours— 482 miles— 135 hours. Road generally level with a few undulations over alluvial plain, much intersected by water-courses, which overflow their banks, inundating the road, and creating a series of deep muddy swamps. General direction east north-east. At § miles cross deep water-course by trunk bridge, ford two others at 1 mile, and a stream at 1^ miles. At 3 miles pass ruined village Burrounded by trees and gardens on the right of road. Cross water-course at3| miles, and at 4 miles pass village of Sadrabadon the left of road. A little farther on, cross dry bed of stream and pass village off the right. At 5^ miles pass village surrounded by trees off left and some mud ruins on same side. Cross water-course at about 7 miles, and pass the village ofKoolmeh on the left of road, situate in the midst of orchards and rich cultivation ; descend into grassy bottom, and cross a small river at this time of the year, about 15 yards in breadth and 2 feet in depth ; ascend out of river's bed, which has steep banks on its north side, pass a high mass of mud ruins on the right and encamp in plain, near a water-course about % a mile further on. In the river's bed is beautiful pasturage for cattle, but the locality is marshy and unhealthy. Water from numerous water-courses and streams good and plentiful ; at stage from the Eerrej river. Supplies procurable from Tehran. 30. Tehban — 18 miles— 4Jhours— 500 miles — 139| hours. Road as in last march overrun by water-courses, and muddy to a degree through alluvial plain with numerous villages surrounded by gardens and poplar trees, but scanty. General direction east north-east. Soon after leaving encamping ground, cross a water-course, and at ^ a mile cross the river Kerrej by a brick bridge in good repair. River about 30 yards broad, deep and rapid. After crossing pass the caravanserai on the left and a large brick kiln on the right. Travellers might avail themselves of this caravanserai, instead of encamping in plain. A little farther on cross water-course and pass village on the right of road, and at lg miles ford a stream ; and another at 3 miles with a village on the right. At 4 miles pass through mud ruins, and at 4J miles cross deep nullah, at the bot- tom of which is a small stream. At 6f miles pass extensive walled garden on the left and another on the right at 6f miles. At 8 miles cross deep nullah, and pass small spring rising at the side of road. A little farther on pass walled garden on the right, and at 8| miles a line of kanat and water-course cross the road. At 9 miles pass a ruined Imamzada and walled gardens on the left of road, and a little further on cross water-course, and pass walled garden on the right of road. At 10 miles pass ruined mud fort situate on mound on the right of road and some low mud ruins ; on the left cross a small stream, and at 12 miles a dry bed of another stream, and pass village off the left of road. At 12£ miles cross broad water-course by bridge, and pass walled garden on the right. At 13 miles pass Imamzada among fine trees on the left and a village beyond off the same side. At 13^ miles pass a caravanserai on the left, and the village of Khaniabad about % a mile off right Bituate among fine gardens. Hence to the city of Tehran pass numerous gardens with poplar trees off both sides of the road, and cross numerous water-courses. Enter the city 634 BAM TO SHIRAZ. by the south-west gate. Encamping ground for an army in the vast plain on this side of the city for the sake of space, forage, and situation. There is also ground on the north side, but not of much extent. In explanation of this route it is necessary to state, that the distances between the stages from march to march are calculated according to the time actually passed in the saddle, with special reference to the average paces of our horses during that particular march, as it is evident that where the road is steep or difficult, the pace must sensibly decrease in speed. Good roadsters on a firm and level track will rarely walk faster than 4J miles an hour ; and as the total time passed in the saddle each march is entered in the route, it will be seen that the distances cannot have been much under-rated. The distances between all landmarks are calculated in the same manner by timing them actual- ly by the watch. A village or object on right or left means close to, or at some dis- tance less than £ a mile from the right or left side of the road. An object stated as "off" right or left means at a distance greater than ^ a mile, but less than 2 miles from the res- pective side. In some cases, this lateral distance is estimated roughly. A water-course is applied to small canals, and means an artificial stream. A kanat means an under- ground aqueduct. A nullah means a deep bed of a stream in a plain, as opposed to a ravine. It is necessarily difficult to give any exact classification of rivers, torrents, streams, &c, from the cursory observation of the features of the country ; but the terms are applied generally to natural water-ways, as opposed to artificial. A ridge means a hill- top or summit of range of hills traversed by the road between an ascent and a descent. In most cases where these are considerable, the times of ascending and descending are shown separately. All dry beds of streams and torrents are noted, as during certain seasons of the year they would be full of water, and many of them unfordable. — {Taylor — Hardy.) No. 11. BAM to SHIRAZ by RUDBAE and AHMAD. 23 MAECHES — 575J MILES. 1. Fedva — 12 miles . I quitted the place on the 17th January, and passing through the neighbouring village of Bagh-e-Khan, was soon traversing a stony plain in a direction W. by S.* At the 2nd mile the hamlet of Bagh Nii occurred, then in a direction W. by N. we crossed, at 4§ miles, the Tehrud stream, at a bend it makes from the southwards, and passed the hamlet Hararun. At the 12tb mile we alighted at Fedva, a spot at which we had been told we should find a caravanserai. Two ruinous hovels, however, were the only structures, and in these we deposited ourselves for the night, having brought with us provisions and provender for this and the next deserted stage. 2. SABJ3 — 24 miles — 36 miles. We continued our way over this stony plain in direction S. W. towards the moun- tains, and subsequently on the bearings noted in the margin, t A sprinkling * Distances and bearings. W. to Bagh-e-Khan... W. by S. Bagh Nu ... Tehrud stream S.W., W.S.W. S W. by W aDd S.W. W. 25 S., W.8.W., and W. by S. W.S.W. ... S.W. W. 5° N. by gentle ascent W. by S. ... W. W. byS. ... W. 5" S. ... W.S.W., ascend low hilla Enter valley, W. Descend N.W. by W. among hills Up valley S.W. by S. Miles. 1J I 2} 14 I 2 W. by S.„. W.S.W. ... W. by S. ... W. by N. ... W. to Fedva t 2Hstances and bearings. Miles. 4 1 1 if 2 1 1 s. S.W. Valley expanding ; Deh Bekri ; then S. by W., and presently S. through snow ascend hills 4 min. Descend S.S.W. S. by B and S. by W. by hill side Alighted at caravanserai. Miles. 1 12* Miles. a i i 635 BAM TO SHIRAZ. of bushes of the wild almond and thorn, and of a tree called bermeh, occurred as we advanced, the former giving shelter to numerous coveys of partridge. At the 14th mile we ascended low hills at the foot of the mountains, and at the 15th mile entered a valley ; at the 16th mile we descended N.W. by W. amongst hills clothed with scattered trees and bushes as before described. At the 17th mile we turned up a valley leading S. W. by S., and alighted to breakfast, and to allow of the baggage coming up with one of my servants, who, having fallen alarmingly ill, was carried stretched on the back of one of the mules. Con- tinuing southwards the valley expanded, and we passed the ruined village of Deh Bekri, belonging to the district ofSardu, 12 fursacks distant to the W. ; there were no inhabitants, but the fields around were under cultivation. Presently after- wards we got amongst snow, which deepened as we ascended through hills still clothed, though not densely, with trees and shrubs. The 22nd mile led us to the extremity of the valley, and presently afterwards to the top of the ascent. The path then lay down the mountain-side through a wooded country to a small ruined and uninhabited caravanserai, which was to afford us shelter for the night. It was open to the air on one side; but though the country lay deep in snow, and we were at a considerable elevation, the climate was comparatively mild ; the distance travelled this day was about 24 miles. The caravanserai in which we had found shelter is situated in the district of Meskin, belonging to Jemal Bariz. Mountains rising range beyond range, many of great height, were visible to the W. and S.W. When our baggage arrived we could hardly find space for the whole party to be accommodated in the ruin, for, besides my own, which consisted of 15 men and 19 beasts of burthen, several other travellers and their cattle had to be crammed into the building. 8. Seejaz — 30 miles — 66 miles. We were off early on the following morning (19th January), descending the mountains by a very winding path in a general direction S.W. for the first 2 miles.* Getting out of the snow as we descended, we proceeded by a pleasant path winding by slight risings and falls through a charming country of wooded hill and dale. Sometimes the wild almond was the only tree or bush visible ; though destitute of leaves at that season, its lesser branches are green at all times, whilst its stem is of the darkest brown. We continued the descent until the 10th mile, when we alighted at a pleasant spot to break our fast ; and at the 11th mile crossed the Bud Khaneh Saghder, a small river flowing to the N. W Subsequently the path led over low hills until the 12th mile, when we commenced a great descent, through a picturesque country of moun- tains, towards the plain of Jeruft by a difficult, rough, and rocky road. This fine pass is known as the Giidar Mugat ; the hills were scantily clothed with shrubs and the tree Tcoonar; the latter seems to retain its leaves, which are nearly circular throughout the year. It bears a round stoned fruit, and its branches are armed with crooked thorns. We quitted the mountain-pass at 17^ miles, and entered the plain of Jeruft, traversing a most stony tract, south- wards, by a descent towards the Bud Khaneh Shur (Salt Biver), a very rapid stream, varying at that time from 20 to 30 paces in breadth, but flowing through a much wider, deep, and rough bed in a direction from NW . to S.E. Its waters, notwithstanding its designation, are perfectly fresh, and its sand con- tains the same sparkling substance I have observed around Yezd. * Distances and bearings. S.W. general direction Windings B. S.S.E. and S. S.E. and S. S.E. to S.W., windings S.W. by W. S.W. by S„ S„ and S.W. S.W. by W. Windings — general direction liver Bud Khaneh Saghder Ditto ... S.W. to Miles. li 1 1 if 1 i 3 S. Descent— S.W., W., W. by N. and W.S.W.. S.W. Quit mountains S.W. S.S.W. to Bud Khaneh Shur ... S.W.5°S. S.S.W. S.byW. toS. S.E. to Huts (Serjaz) Miles. s 5 H 4 a 5 636 BAM TO SHIRAZ. Thence we continued for about 7 miles over the same kind of stony waste as before. Night overtook us, and no habitations were visible on the plain ; but fall- ing in with some Eliats, we procured a guide, who conducted us to some reed huts, at one of which, a clean and spacious dwelling, we alighted, at 29^ miles, and found comfortable and abundant accommodation. This place is called Serjaz — a mere collection of reed huts, occupied by the tribes from Isfundeken during winter. 4. Du SabI— 20 miles— 86 miles. This site I proceeded to visit on the 20th January, sending on my baggage to Du Sari, in the opposite direction. It lies at about 3 miles W. 20° N. of the fort of Serjaz. We crossed the Hali-riid at about 1| mile from Serj&z. The stream was about 25 paces across, less deep and rapid than its sister stream of yesterday, but flowing through a still wider bed; N-W. to S.B. at that part. Returning from Shehr Daghianus we passed at about 2 miles W. of the fort of Serjaz, and proceeded through a tract of high and low jungle, with which the plain is clothed at this part, the land in general appearing very^ salt. Shortly afterwards we passed the Rud Khaneh Shur, flowing in a diminished stream, from much of its water having been taken off for irrigation, below the spot at which we crossed yesterday. Our guide deserting us by hiding in the wood, we found our way with difficulty through the jungle, and much time was lost in consequence until we procured another and more faithful leader. I took few bearings, but our route led us in general nearly S. and S. by E. from Serjaz ; and we did not reach Da Sari until long after nightfall. The distance is called 6 or 7 fursacks. I estimate it at 20 miles. 5. Deh Pesh: — 23 miles — 109 miles. Our route from Du Sari was at first S.W.,* by a continuation of the plain, the soil of which is sandy and gravelly, but productive under the effects of a fine climate. In parts it is very salt. The heat was great, and my dogs even were panting and seeking the shade of bushes, of which there was a sprink- ling, and occasionally patches of close jungle. At 14j miles we reached the joint stream of the Hali-rud and Bud Khaneh Shur, flowing to the S.E. ; it is about 60 paces in width, and here we entered the district of Eudbar ; 8J miles farther brought us to the Persian camp at Deh Pesh. 6. KehniS — 13 miles — 122 miles. I took leave of my hospitable friend and proceeded towards Kehnii.t At the 12th mile we passed near the ruined fort of this name, attached to which are extensive groves of palms stretching to the westward ; here a few huts were seen, but the new fort to which we were going lies a little S. of this spot, and we reached it at the 1 3th mile. s.w. 245° 200 220 190 200 185 190 215 210 200 205 210 185 205and215° 190 175 190° ... 210 215 170 175 ... 205° 200° ... 230 215 225° ... * Distances and bearings. Miles. 1J 1 i i i H l ! a i i i i 170° 215 195 and S.W. to united stream of Hali-rud and Rud Khaneh Shur 190otol70° 160165° ... 160 180 160 190 ... ... „ 205 190 175 S.B. and 195° 180" 165 to Deh Pesh Miles. t Distances and bearings. Miles. 230° 215 195 to Kehnu 2i 637 i i i li Miles. 1 13 BAM TO SHIK.AZ. 7. Eud Khaneh: Bae — 28J miles — 156| mileB. We quitted Kehnu* on the 26th January by a path which presently led us through jungle, and brought us gradually near to sterile mountains forming the northern boundary of this vale, which is probably 6 or 7 miles in width,- flat, and more or less covered with trees and bushes, between which grows a fine carpet of turf; the trees are mostly of a species of acacia, called kehour. At the 11th mile we alighted at some wretched huts, the people of which supplied us with sour milk and fresh butter. This valley is ill supplied with water, and the people subsist with difficulty by what they obtain from wells 12 or 15 yards deep ; and what I tasted was bad and almost putrid in flavour. At the 18th mile we reached the northern extremity of low hills, interrupting the valley, in a direction N. W. and S.E., and passing through these, entered a broad plain, the mountains receding on the IN", to a distance ; the country to the S. occupied by low hills, and behind these, mountains, which, as we advanced, receding farther S., increase the width of the plain. At the 26th mile, having reached a clump of tall palms, we ascended by the bed of a rivulet, passing other extensive plantations of the same tree; and finally alighted at a collection of 14 poor kutuk or huts, at a spot called Eud Khaneh Bar. The people and date- groves are the property of the chief of Eudbar. The distance travelled was about 28J miles. 8. Camp — 25 miles — 175| miles. On the 27th we were early in the saddle, and continued along the plain.f which, for a few miles, was uneven and broken into ravines, then occurred a tract of fine turf with a sprinkling of the kunar and kehur trees. Soon after quit- ting Eud Khaneh Bar this morning, we entered the district of Eudan. At &J miles we reached the stream called Eud Khaneh Duzde, flowing S., very shallow, and only 15 yards in width. Date groves extend along its course. At the 23rd mile we alighted to wait the coming up of our baggage, and here fall- ing in with a shepherd, he informed us that it would be impossible to reach Ahmedi that day, and recommended our putting up at some neighbouring tents, * Distances and bearings. Miles. W. and W. by N. ... 270" 245 255 275° 270= 265 250 265 225 250° 265° 265 250 260 280° 270° 265° 260° 255 270 265° 260° '.'.'. 270 260 250° ... S.S.W. ... W. 255° N.W 270° 240° 236° 230° 225° 200° ... 23" 220 255° 260° ... 270 Northern extremity of low hills. 260° 270° ... 240 225 233 225 215 225° 250° 230 220 210 180 through palm groves to Rud Khaneh Bar ... t Distances and bearings. Miles. 230 235 270 285° .. 270 260 235 270° .. 260 230 225 270°.. S.S.W. to Rud Khaneh Duzde S. 290° 295 300°.. 295 275 270° 285 To Chakunarlk (bed of a stream flowing from the W.) 285° .. 300 290 275 2900 .. 315 285 305 300 310 800 Then back eastward Miles. i 1 1 1 l* 2J i I It 27$ Miles. 1 i 1 1 638 BAM TO SHIRAZ. there being no other habitation short of the above-named place. The baggage was so far behind, and so little remained of the day, that I reluctantly con- sented to turn off a couple of miles in direction E. to the tents, which we found miserable in the extreme, and composed merely of matting. 9. Ahmedi — 26 miles — 201f miles. After leaving our quarters* at the 5th mile we descended into a deep gully resembling the bed of a torrent, and followed its windings by a very rough and difficult path with a gentle ascent, after which it narrowed considerably with high abrupt sides and water lying in little pools in the bottom. Towards the end of the 13th mile, after a most difficult route amongst the rocks of this deep gully, we reached a point, which leading up the side of the rock, brought us immediately out of the pass. We then proceeded through a rocky wild country, by a difficult steep descent, dangerous for laden cattle, until it terminated at about the 15th mile. We then proceeded by an infamous road about W.S.W., down a valley containing trees and low jungle, and at the 17th mile entered a small plain surrounded by rocks, and presently crossed at right angles the high road leading from Kerman towards Bunder Abassi. Passing through low hills and across a broad stony valley through which flows a rill of water southwards, at the 20th mile we ascended and then crossed another stony valley ; presently afterwards, entering a narrow pass through craggy weather worn rocks, we turned off to the W. through low rocky hills, and soon afterwards proceeded S.W. by S. Thence the road lead into a valley partly occupied by extensive plantations of palms, across a rivulet and over an intensely salt tract of land into another valley of palm trees and jungle, in direction W. and S.W. This brought us into a more open country, and descending at the 23rd mile into one more valley of date trees, we proceeded up it in a direction varying between W. by S. and due W. to the fort of Ahmedi, which we reached towards the end of the 26th mile. From Ahmedi to Bunder Abassi it is four stages, namely — Teng-e-Zendan ... ... „.~\ SerKhun 1 !.. '" f In aU atout 27 fur sacks. Bunder Abassi ... ... ...J The old traveller Marco Polo, 600 years since, described the road from Kerman to Hormuz, near Bunder Abassi, and it is probably that which is now usually taken by caravans, namely — Kerman to Kharin... ... ... ... 6 fursacks. Nigar ... ... ... ... 6 „ „ KalehAsker ... ... ... 7 Baft ... ... ... ... 5 „ Deshtab ... . ... ... 6 „ „ Deh Serd ... ... ... 5 „ District of Ahmedi ... ... ... ... 9 „ And from Ahmedi as above ... ... ... 27 „ 71 fursacks. * Distances and bearings. 285° 270 290° 300 285 290= 300 To deep gully, winding S.W. by S. to N.W.byW. .... N. 225° to 285° N. to S.W. 8. by W. to W., N . to S.S. W. . . " Summit of pass — descend in general direc- tion — 160° 240 255 230 270 to 300° 265 Miles, i 2f 14 285" 290" Cross road to Bunder Abassi W. to low hills Through them W. to N.W 260° 275° .. 290 to 270" 290 up pass 295 W., S.W., andS. .. 215° and 220° 260 and 240 W., S.W., W. by S. .. 270° 285°... 280 and 270" To Ahmedi. Miles. 1 i t 24rf 639 BAM TO SHIUAZ. 10. Dasi,atabad — 30 miles— 231J miles. Our route from Ahmedi* led us about N.N.W. towards the mountains by a path, stony in parts. At 1£ mile we entered a deep pass leading at first N. f and here I observed some large fossils, funnel-shaped and fold within fold; the pass greatly expanding as we advanced, and containing bushes of various kinds and a few benneh trees. At 3J mile we ascended the rocks by a difficult and dangerous path, in which some of our baggage-mules fell, occasioning us much delay in unlading and reloading them ; 8 or 10 minutes would other- wise have sufficed to take us to the summit, from whence we descended im- mediately into a small plain, the surface of which, at first perfectly sterile, was, farther on, sprinkled with tufts and bushes, but exceedingly stony. The plain stretches E. and W., and is apparently of no great extent^ onr way across it led us N. 30° E. and N. 25° E. to some low hills, where we pro- ceeded along the dry bed of a salt stream, where fossils resembling a honey- comb are abundant. At 9£ miles we entered a pass through red hills, winding through which, by a gentle ascent, we crossed at the 14th mile the valley side, and immediately afterwards proceeded N. 10° E. over hills. At the 15th mile we turned off the road to our right to a sulphurous spring of water, which though extremely nauseous to the taste, is still used by travellers for want of better. We continued due N. over the hills for a space, and, at the 16th mile, proceeded up a narrow rugged ravine in direction between 85° and 50°, presently reaching its summit, thence by a gradual descent 55° E. and N., and down a valley between the points W. by'N. and N.W. by N., to a clump of palms at 17£ miles ; then N. until we entered the plain of Orzu at the 18th mile, proceeding over a stony tract by a slight descent, of which the bearings are given in the margin. This is an extensive plain, running in length E. and W. ; its southern side is covered with bushes, and is very stony, but towards the centre it is of a light, fine soil. I was enabled to take bearings up to about 25^ miles after which the darkness prevented my making any further observation until we alighted at the little fort of Dowlatabad, surrounded by a village of huts com- posed of branches and reeds, at the and of the 30th mile. 11. Kaia Nao— 30 miles— 261| miles. We were early off m a direction of 300.f Eour miles and a half brought up to a copious canat stream, close to the fort of KaderaMd. 840° 360° Enter pass N. 820 275 260° 270° To top of pass 328° by descent to plain N. 30° B. N. 25 B. N- 45° 20 and 320° to a pass N. 10° B. 40° and N. E. 20° 5° 10° 17 100 16° 10° 840 315 300" .. Distances and bearings. Miles, 855 80100° Ascend valley side 75° and 10° over hills Sbring of water N. over hills and 340° 25° up ravine— 85° and 50° Desend 55° and N. ... 340a 290° 825° down a valley . . 345° N. Enter plain of Orzu 386° 345° 325° 300° 325° 340° 335 345 .. 335 350 345 355° 345 To Dowletabad Miles. 4 i i l if li 2 H i l _4i 30} 800° 805 300°.. Eaderabad. 800 295° 280 275 . . 280 parallel with mountains to our right 265° 260 270 and 285° 209 285 305 285 290 280° . t Distances and bearings. Miles. 290".. To Kalm Mahoxnedi. 800° 260° .. 295 280 ... 250 270 265 265 270 To Sultanabad. 280° 300° . . 280 to 300° To Kaleh Nu. Miles. 1 30& 640 BAM TO SHIRAZ. Passing an encampment of Afshars at the 8th mile, we proceeded parallel with mountains half a mile distant to our right; towards the 12th mile these moun- tains receding to the N., form a wide recess of the plain, of which at this part and at Dowlatabad the width is the greatest. At the 14th mile, Allahabad, a lately abandoned fort, bore due N. one mile distant ; and N. 10° W. were the snowy mountains of Ehabre, a division of Akta, which, notwithstanding its mountainous character, abounds with fruit groves, of which the pomegranate, almond, pistachio nut, grape, and figs are the principal productions. The habi- tations there are of mud and stone. At the 15th mile we reached some rocks, several high ridges of which interrupt the plain at this point, running N.N.W. and S.S.E. The juniper trees had become scarcer in this part. At 18| miles., the deserted fort of OrzuboreN.5° W. about two miles distant. Presently afterwards we passed the ruins of two small forts and some fruit-gardens. At 19s miles occurred the fort of Eahn Mahomedi, belonging to Afshars, who" speak Turkish. N. 20° E. from thence was the ruined fort of Orzu, the people of which occupy huts near it. A good deal of land was under cultivation in this part of the plain, watered by copious canat streams. At the 26th mile we reached the small fort of Sultanabad, and at the 30th that of Eala Nao. The range marked in our maps as the Jebelabad mountains is no doubt that of Jemelabad of Akta. Beyond the mountains bounding the plain in which Eala Nao is situated, to the S., is the country of Lar. The direction of Forg was pointed out on a bearing of 210°, 10 fursacks or 40 miles distant, and that of Tarem, 15 fursacks or 60 miles in the same direction. 12. Gishktjh— 28 miles— 289£ miles. From Eala Nao* we marched 1^ mile to Zearet, a small collection of huts, an Imamzadeh, and plantations of palms. We proceeded diagonally on a bearing of 315° across it, and at the 4th mile reached some huts and the ruined fort of Desht-Bir. At the 8th mile our way lay over a stony plain clothed with tufts ; at 14£ miles by a shallow valley through low hills, occupying the extrem- ity of the plain ; at 16J miles a watch-tower to our left ; at 18J miles a well of water and presently another watch-tower after which we crossed an open but uneven tract of country. At 23^ miles the little fort of Rishghir bore 210°, one mile off, and at the 24th we reached the hamlet Mahomedabad, and im- mediately got on to the high-road between Yezd and Bunder Abassi ; thence 1^ miles beyond brought us to a large round tower and village huts, known as Aliabad, a little to the right of the main road we were on. At 27| miles quit- ting this road, we reached at the 28th mile the fort Gishkoh. From hence to Bunder Abassi are 33§ fursacks, to Yezd 80 fursacks, and to Eerman 40 fur- sacks. This measure varies a good deal in these parts, namely from 3 to 4 miles per fursack ; between Yezd and the Gulf I believe that 3 miles per fursack may be reckoned. 320° 325° to Zearet 315 across plain ... 310 315 to Desht-Bir ... 280 270" 280 N.W. and 285° 270° 275° 305 270 by shallow valley to "watch-tower 290° 280 800 to a well 300 to a watch tower 300 265 and 275° 265 800 Distances and bearings. Miles. • li * 1 ■ H 2 2 *J 2 * 1 1 i 1* * i i 1 310° 305 to 316o Rishghir 1 mile distant 210°. 350° ... .,. 300 to Mahomedabad 300 High road between Yezd and Bunder Abassi 345 315° to Aliabad .'.'.' .'.'.' !'.' 345 310 345° "'. '..'. Quit high road. 840° To Gishkuh. Return to Aliabad Miles. 1 4 i i H 4 641 4i BAM TO SHIRAZ. 13. KtJm-25 miles— 314J miles. Quitting Aliabad,* and regaining the high road leading to Yezd, we proceeded by a gradual ascent northwards. The plain we presently traversed was clothed with tufts of the gum tragacanth plant, and with scattered bushes of the wild almond, &c. At 2§ miles we passed a tower and garden belonging to an adjoining hamlet embosomed in trees, which a mile farther on we left a little to our right. Here we overtook a cosseid or foot-messenger from Bunder Abassi, who had been 4J days on the way. At the end of the 5th mile we alighted at a pond of good water, possessing two trees and some cultivation near it. At the 8th mile the mountains of Khabre (part of Akta.) bore exactly E., distant probably 25 miles. At the 9th mile, still continuing northwards, we reached some low hills, and traversed them by a broad passage and an easy ascent, gaining the summit at the 13th mile. Here we entered the district of Sirjan, and proceeded by a gentle descent through low hills in a direction a little E. of N. until the 14th mile, when, reaching a plain of great extent, we continued northwards. Find- ing we could not reach any village before nightfall, at about the 20th mile we turned off the road across the country in a direction of 60°, reaching at the 25th mile (7 fursacks) the ruined mud fort of Xiim, near which some Afshar black tents were pitched. The highway for caravans between Tezd and Bunder Abassi, which we had travelled on this day, is said to be at one point only impracticable for artillery, that is at the Tengheh Zaugh, between Saidabad and Gurch, a narrow pass of 3 fursacks in length, very rocky, and overrun by water. The road by which guns are therefore taken to or from Bunder Abassi is by Herman, the position of which is about S.E., and not S., from Yezd. 14. Malkabad— 340£ miles. From Kumf we took a cross path leading on a bearing of 75° at If mile into a high-road, different from that by which we travelled yesterday. It led us north- wards over the plain, which for a space was bare kevvir, but farther on was clothed with bushes for several miles. On the way we breakfasted at some black tents, but the water drawn from wells with which the people supplied us was so filthy and thick, that we could not use it for tea. At the 21st mile the village of Abbassabad lay three quarters of a mile to our left, and at the 23rd that of Salabad 1 mile on the same side, half a mile N . of which is a white isolated rock rising from the plain. At the 24th mile the small village Darestan occurred, and at the 26th that of Malikabad, where we alighted. This place is almost destitute of trees, but many of the villages of this plain possess gardens and groves of trees. 355" and M. N. 20° E. N. 10 W. to N. N. 15 W. Tower and garden. 840° Hamlot J mile to right N. to pond N. N. 15° E,, 20" E., and N. IV. 10 E. ... Mountains of Khabre bore E. N to low hills 85(1" N. and N. 6" W. N, 6° B. and S. 6° W. 75° to high road .,, 40 N. 20° 10. and 15°E N. and N. 10° E. ... N. N. 11° W N. 10W. and N. ... 8U5 N. N. 80° E. f off high road • Distances and bearings. Miles. i i 2 1 1* n i i Top of Pass— Descend N. 6° E. and 10° E. to Great Plain... N. 60° E. N. N. 10° E. ... N. 15 E. ... N„ N.10°E., andN. 5° E. N., and N. 10° E. ... A small fort i mile to right. N. 10° E. ... ... " N. 60 E. ... To Kiim. + Distances and bearings. Miles, Si 380O 820 345 and S25o 825 310 330 840 to Darestan 340 N. To Mulekabad. Miles. 2J i Miles. BAM TO SHIRAZ. 15. Sa'ida'bad — 18 miles — 358s miles. Quitting Malikabad,* we enoountered a caravan of 370 camels on their way from STezd to Buader Abassi, laden chiefly with madder-root, cotton, assafoetida, and almonds ; and we passed a second company of about the same size soon after- wards. At the 2nd mile we reached Ezetabad ; at the 5th Tajabad. We then turned off the road in a direction 290° to visit the rock and ruins of Eala Sang, which we reached in half an hour. We proceeded over a sandy tract of desert, in which we presently lost our way, in consequence of the clouds of dust and sand-drift caused by the gale which has raged since yesterday ; reaching some tents, we procured a guide, and at the 12th mile got again on to the high-road we had missed. We then proceeded on a bearing of 295°, passing, 1^ mile farther on, the village Jellalabad. At the 16th mile those of Feruzabad and Makeabad, about three quarters of a mile to our loft ; then Ghiadgar and Eushkabad, also to our left. At about the 1 8th mile we reached Saidabad, the principal village in Sirjan, containing some 500 houses. From Saidabad to Eerman is a distance of 34 fursacks ; to Darab, 27 or 28 fursacks ; Shehr Babek, 15 fursacks. The direction of the town of Eerman, as pointed out by the people, was about 40° from this place ; that of Yezd about 340° ; that of Pariz, where the turquoise-mine exists, N. 5° E., distant 35 or 40 miles; in that vicinity also the ghez, which yields manna, grows abundantly. 16. Ehaieabad — 27 miles — 385£ miles. From Saidabadf we started with fine frosty weather on a bearing of 255°, and presently passed some ruined villages destroyed. At 3| miles we reached the village of Deh Nu Balla, and 3 miles beyond that of jDeh Nu Pain ; 8 miles brought us to the nearly uninhabited village of Eaneh Amre. The plain was generally very barren and gradually resolving itself into salt desert. At 10^ miles we reached the edge of the keffeh or great salt field for which this plain is remarkable. We proceeded by a hard, smooth path worn in the otherwise soft, rotten soil ; in rainy weather the keffeh becomes impassable, and the whole tract a mere morass or bog. I observed that wherever rainwater had collected or flowed in streamlets, a beautiful incrustation of salt was the result. As we advanced, the path for a while lay through a deep layer of loose salt, and then com- menced the most notable part of the keffeh. The loose salt gave place to a sheet of the same substance, hard and highly crystallized, and not yielding to the tread of a horse though at first only one or two inches in thickness ; beneath it was brine, mud, and water. Poles or stumps of trees placed at intervals guided us on our way, but presently we lost all traces of a path, and travelled over one wide expanse or field of salt, on which the horses' tread left no impression, and which resembled the surface of a frozen sea. The salt, however, was everywhere cracked into sections of from half a foot to 3 and * Distances and bearings. Miles. 330 ° 350° to Ezetabad 850 ... ... ... ... i 315 ... ... ... ... 1J 330 ... ... ... i 335 to Tajabad ... ... ... 1 350 ... ... ... ... 1 290 off road to Kala SaDg ... ... 2 N.3S°E.... ... ... ... 3 Miles. 260° on to high road again ... ... l 295° to Jellalabad ... ... .. 2 295 300 305 ... ... ... ... l" 320 ... ... ... 1 335 ... ... ... l To Saidabad. 4 255° ... ... ... ... 2J S.W. ... ... ... ... i 260° to Deh Nu Balla ... ... If 273 2550 250o ... ... ... S W. ... ... ... ... i S.W. ... ... ... ... 5 W.byN ... ... ... 4 W.5°S. andW ... ... ... J 250° ... ... ... ... g 255 and 270" to Deh Nu Pain ... l| 260 to Khaneh Amri ... ... ]j 275 285° 290° ... ... ... jj 260 and 265 ... ... ... 1§ t Distances and bearings. Miles. J5* Miles. Commencement of Great Salt Field 24 8° ... ... ... ... ii 220 ... ... ... ... a 240 225° ... .. '.'.'. '" | 245 255 ... ... '" 6 8 Quit Salt Field. 250° 260°.. Quit main road. SI"" .« ... ... ... i 350 along another high road 24 Quit ditto N. 30° B. ... jS To KheirSbad. " 26i 2 643 BAM TO SHIUAZ. 4 feet in diameter, in the form of pentagons, hexagons, and heptagons, and the brine beneath oozing through the cracks marked them more distinctly by a slightly raised edge. In the midst of this singular tract one almost loses sight of land. N. and S. were clear expenses of salt, and were it not for the neighbouring mountains on the W. one might fancy oneself in the midst of an interminable frozen ocean. The length, as reported, is from N. to S. 6 fursacks, or 21 miles ; but to the S.E. it spreads out into a very wide expanse. Its breadth at the part where we crossed was about 6 miles'. I endeavoured when in the midst to ascertain the depth of the salt, but having no proper instrument for digging into it, was obliged to relinquish the effort after piercing with difficulty to a depth of 3£ inches. Towards the W. side the surface was one un- broken sheet without a crack, its crystals sparkling in the sun, the heat and glare of which were inconveniently felt. After getting again upon the hard plain, at the 20th mile quitting the main road we struck across the country in a direction of 310°, after closely approaching the hills. At the 21st mile we reached another bill road, and presently after- wards, leaving it, turned towards the small fort and village of Khairabad, where we alighted at the end of the 27th mile, having been obliged to travel about 5 miles out of our way to reach an inhabited spot. 17. Beshneh— 28£ miles — 414 miles. Proceeding on a bearing of 220° and crossing a broad recess of the plain, we entered the mountains, and presently observed a herd of deer* At the 6th mile two roads occurred, one leading direct to Kutru, and the other on a bearing of 260°, by which we proceeded through a broad valley more or less clothed with bushes and the benneh-tree, which bears a small fruit with a stone and kernel ; the latter is eaten, and from the tree a resin is obtained. At 1 7i miles, having reached the head of the valley, we found a deep well of good water, where, by means of a stable-bucket and a rope, we obtained some of the contents to refresh ourselves and cattle with, this being the first water we had met with since the morning. Here we entered the territory of Fars, and pro- ceeding by a gentle descent still through a valley, shallower than the preceding one. Gradually wo got into a more open country by continued descents, and at 28J miles we alighted at the small village Beshneh, possessing some towers of refuge. The distance is called 9 fursacks. 18. Kutru — 15 miles — 429 miles. We proceeded on a bearing of 280° down a valley much occupied by the ghez tree, and possessing a salt-streamlet.^ At the 3rd mile proceeded on a bearing of 210° over a plain of great length IS. and S., the mouutains on the western side forming a vast amphitheatre, the convexity of which points about S.W. ; the plain more or less studded with low bushes, but in parts salt and sterile. At 15£ miles we alighted at Eutru beyond which we could not proceed that day, there being no inhabited place for many fursacks on our way beyond it. Miles. i i l l if § i i I Miles. H a i i 1 "l5i * Distances c Miles. ... 24 nd bearings. 230° S. 310° ... 225 3 290 225 through mountains, two roads 1 2S0 295° 300° 200° 270° 255° 260° 265° along broad 270 valley ... ::: 1 265 255° ... 270° 250 245 ... 270 ... l* 260 235 ... 260 265 270 ..'. si 245 260 ^ 275 265 8 245 270 l 260 To head of valley. A well here. 250 260° 270° 270° by gentle descent through a valley ... 2 To Beshneh. t Distances a Miles. ::: I nd bearings. 280° by valley and salt streamlet 210° and 215° 220 205 and 190 salt barren tract 190 i 195 salt barren tract ... 225 i 190 270 4 185 210 over great plain i 215 i 044 BAM TO SHIKAZ. 19. Neteiz — 2 L| miles— 450| miles. from Kutru we proceeded on a bearing of 260° and 275°, the plain clothed with the gum tragacanth plant.* At the 2nd mile we entered a deep and wide ravine through the mountains, and proceeded by a gradual ascent in direction 275°. This pass abounds with bushes and the benneh and wild almond trees. The 6th mile brought us to the top of the pass, from whence we proceeded by a gentle descent over an open tract between hills, the country still clothed with tufts and bushes. At 12J miles we descended through a narrow, tortuous valley by a very rough road and considerable slope, towards the end of which occur- red some plantations of pomegrante, walnut, and other trees, nourished by a streamlet of very clear water. At 15£ miles ascended again a quarter of a mile, when "we came insight of the Lake of Neyriz, or Kheir, stretching nearly N.W. and S.E. apparently, though only a part of it was visible. We descended by a bad and rather steep road, on a general bearing of 270°, reaching the bottom of the pass at the commencement of the 17th mile, and then proceeding along the plain over very rough ground. At the 19th mile alighting at a circular pond. "We reached Neyriz at the end of 21f mi'es of difficult road. From Neyriz to Eej, across the mountains, is a distance of 4fursacks, or 12 miles. Though this place is on the high-road between Shiraz and Herman, such is the limited nature of the traffic between the two places that we had not encountered a single caravan in all the distance between Sirjan and Neyriz. 20. Kheib— 26 miles — 476^ miles. From Neyrizf we proceeded over an uncultivated plain, passing at 4J miles the village of Khajeh Ahmed, situated one mile off to our right at the foot of a 260" 275 Enter deep Pass. 275" 270 255 By windings of valley from 220° to due N. to top of ascent 325° by gentle descent through hills 320° 300 310 and 325° 300 305° 285" 290° ... S10 Descend through narrow tortuous valley in general direction N. 320" and 340° 320° and 235° ' Distances and bearings. Miles. 305 and 320 305 300 and 330 To plantations. 305° 285° ... 270° ascending come in sight of lake Descend 270° to bottom of descent 280° across plain 265 260 to pond 230 225 and 230° 240 230 To Neyriz. Miles. 275 280 290 285 270 265 270 290 270" 285° Village Khajeh Ahmed 1 mile distant. 270° 286° Village Kala Nii bore 360", 10 miles dis- tant. Village Bustak 350°, 2 miles distant, Kala Shur N. 5° E., 8 miles distant. Mountains 2 miles off to south run in a line with the shore. 270° 265° 270 260 275 to rocks 275 265 285 265" 280 295 to Ay Yovan 285 270... 295 305... 280° 295° (Here the direction of the shore was from 115° to 295°.) t Distances a nd bearings. Miles. 1 i 1 n i i i l 2S 270" 280° ... 275 270 leaving the lake 275 270 265° ... 260 265 270° 275° 280° ... 295 275 285 270° ... 290 To village Mubareka'ba'd. 275° Lake appeared to terminate at this point having taken a bend due N°, and some rocks shutting out the view of its con- tinuation W. 295° 290 260° 270° ... ." To ruined village Serai. 330 305 To Kheir. Miles. 645 BAM TO SIIIKAZ. lonely rock. At the 5th mile the village of Kala Nu bore due N. 10 miles dis- tant ; that of Rustak, 350°, 2 miles off; and Kala Shur, N. 5° E., 3 miles dis- tant. We were then travelling parallel with mountains about 2 miles off to the S. Six and two-thirds miles brought us close to some rocks rising from the plain ; and here was a considerable tract under cultivation, belonging to the above-named villages, and small encampments of Eliats, living however as liayats on the soil. At 9£ miles occurred the small fort of Ay Yovan, unoccupied, but surrounded by black tents. From hence the eastern extremity of the lake bore N. 30° E., but the water then reached only to N. 10° E., it being low at this season. A high range of mountains, called the Koh Khojeh Malli, 30 to 36 miles off, bore from Ay Yovan between the points 335° and 350°. The 16th mile brought us close to the water. Thence the road led parallel, and close to the lake for some distance, a range of mountains on our left running in a line with it about 1 mile distant. The accompanying bearings will show the previous and subsequent direction of the shore, 18J miles having led us gradually from it. Twenty-threfc miles and a half brought us to the village Mubarekabad, and at the 24th the lake appeared to terminate at a bearing due N., but this was not really the case ; its southern shore had taken a bend northwards, and the pre- sence of some high rocks shut out from view the continuance of the water to the westward ; it was at this point about 1J mile distant. At the 25th mile we reached the ruined mud village-fort Seraj, surrounded by cultivated land ; thence 305° direct to Kheir, which village we reached after a ride of 26 miles. 21. Kheieomeh — 47 miles — 523J miles. We had a long march to perform, and quitting Kheir* continued westward, near the mountains on our left and parallel to the lake on the other hand. The 4th mile brought us to the foot of the former, when we proceeded on a bearing of 300°, and reached a spring of tepid water at the 6th mile. The benneh-tree, ghez, and wild almond abound in this part. At the 12th mile the shore took a bend northwards ; hitherto from Kheir the water had appeared to be from 2 to 3 miles across, subsequently it became much diminished in width, but apparently less shallow : a second bend northwards occurred at the 19th mile. Khaneh Kird, consisting of a tower, a ruined caravanserai, and a well, occurred at the 24th mile ; thence, by a gentle ascent over a hard stony road, we crossed some low hills and passed abreast of an island nearly divided in two. An extensive view is here obtained of the lake spreading to the S. and W. At the 29th mile its southern extremity bore 270°. At the 33rd we crossed a spur of the mountains on our left, close to which a little bridge, known as the Pool-e-Talkh, marks the boundary between the districts of Istahvonat and W. near mountains to left, and lake to right .. 800" 310 290° to deserted fort 290 To foot of mountains. 300° 820 285 295 To spring of tepid water. 345°' 805 810 825 295 Uend in the shore N. 816 275 820 815 810 856 836 310 805 Short hand in the Bhore N. 340° 345 330 815 * Distances and bearings. Jliles. 820° 315° 310° and 295 and 310" 820 To Khaneh Kird. 300° 310° 295° 820 and 300° by ascent 295 265 Pass abreast of island, then over low hills 285° 255° .. 300 286 and 260° 250 270 250 235 260 250° 235° 240° .. Cross small spur of mountains on left, and the Pool-e-Talkh (Bridge), then 310° over plain 290° Large mound called Kaleh Turenii. 290° 280° .. Chener— deserted villoge, 270o and a little S. of that point, until we alighted at Kheiromeh Wiles. i ii 1 i 64 646 BAM TO SHIRAZ. Kulbar or Kurbale, which latter extends to Bund Amir, 11 fursacks E. and W., and about 4 fursacks N. and S. Here we entered upon an extensive plain formed by the recession of the mountains to the S , a fine level tract, over which we proceeded at first on a bearing of 310°. Thus far we had constantly the mountains close to our left, and the shore of the lake equally near on our right ; we were now receding from both. At the 39th mile we arrived at a large artificial mound, called Kala Turenji, which in the days of Nadir Shah was crowned by a fort ; here we and our cattle assuaged our thirst with some indifferent water. Thence, on a bearing of 290° and 280°, we passed at 42£ miles the deserted village Chenar. Finding no inhabitants we continued on in direction 270°, the last bearing I was able to take, owing to the approach of night. Afterwards the road led a little to the S. of that point until towards the end of the 47th mile, when we alighted at the large village Kheiromeh, after being 10| hours in the saddle. The distance is called 12 fursacks. 22. Darien — 27 miles — 550£ miles. As we proceeded we found that, notwithstanding the boasted fertility of the dis- trict, the plain was for the most part devoid of cultivation, excepting near the river, where the villages are principally situated. The plain is a fine level tract, but deficient in running water, excepting that of the river, which does not suffice.* On its northern side it has a continuous range of mountains beyond the stream. At the 17th mile we passed the village Kheirabad, three-quarters of a mile to our right, and here we quitted the district of Kulbar for that of the city of Shiraz (the Homai Shehr). At the 20th mile the village of Yezd Khast occurred, If mile to our left ; and at the 22nd mile we were parallel with the eastern extre- mity of a range of rocky mountains intersecting the plain in a direction E. and W., 1 mile to our right. The 24th mile brought us near the village Du Deh, and soon afterwards we came to a tract of turf, moist and boggy, and intersected by small deep streams. The country here is studded with wells, the water of which is raised for irrigation. We reached Darien, a good village, at the 27th mile, reckoned at 7 fursacks. 23. Shikaz — 25 miles — 575| miles. The village Laibesheh is situated 1J mile from Darien, on a bearing of 345°. f At the 1st mile we reach low hills, and passed the village Kushk-e-Mullah a little 290° 270 300 N. 300 275 285 295 285 315 310°.. 290 280 275 265 270 200 275 265 255°'.'. 270 * Distances and bearings. 275 Kheirabad J of a mile to our right. 265° 285 275 270° 265° Village-fort of Tezd Khast lj mile to our left. 270° 260 Parallel with eastern extremity of range of rocky mountains intersecting plain in direction E. and W, 1 mile to right . . 265° Village Du Deh 330 ... 285° To Darien. t Distances and bearings. 295 270 low hilis— Tillage Kushk Mullah. Cross hills into small plain running E. and W. 290° 270° 280° 290° 275 270 280°... 270 Enter broad pass through mountains — 265° and 285° ... 305° 275° 280° pass widening into broad valley... 305° ascent 275 270° 265° n I i 285° 265° 205° ■270° 805 315° ... 300 ... ... .'., '" Descent by bad road through mountains 305° 280° 295 275° 270° 280° 260° 280 290° 295° 290 260° ... 240 260 To Sbiraz. Miles. I 'I 1 3 274 Miles. 13 i i IS i 4 "i H i i 2 H4 647 BANDAK ABBASS TO JASK. to our right ; crossed hills and immediately descended into a narrow plain, of no great extent, running E. and W. At the 8th mile we entered by a broad pass through mountains, commencing by a gentle ascent near the western extremity of the plain ; the pass widened into a broad valley. At 14£ miles we descended by a very stony road leading through the mountains ; and at the 21st mile, approaching the poet Saady's tomb. Quitting the valley, we entered a plain of no great extent, N. and S., in which Shiraz is situated. I entered the city gate after a ride of about 25 miles, and, proceeding through narrow uneven streets, reached the house of the agent of our legation at Tehran. — (K. Abbott.) No. 12. BAMPUR to BIRJAN. Sehktjha — 100 fursangs. Twelve stages through a waste with jungle. Baheamabad — 10 fursangs. Nehbandan— 36 fursangs. Three stages without water. Biejan — 18 fursangs. Three stages without water. (Kinneir.) No. 13. BANDAR ABBASS to JASK. 56 Fursangs, 41 hours, 13 stages. 1. Sae-i Mobaeak Mosa — 2 fursangs, 2 hours E. "Water brackish from wells. 2. Bttekeh — 5 fursangs — 7 fursangs, 4 hours, E. 7 hours. Water fresh from wells and reservoirs. 3. Hajtabad — 5 fursangs — 12 fursangs, 4 hours, E. 10 hours. Fresh water from wells. 4. Minab — 2 fursangs — 14 fursangs, 2 hours, E. 12 hours. Water from river. The road up to this is over an arid, saline plain, which is in winter occasionally flooded and is then impassable for camels. This route is called the Burkeh route : for the other routes between these places see Nos. 16 & 17. Prom Minal), there is a road to Gulashgird, vide No. 14, on the Bandar Abbass and Kirman roads and also to Rudbar, vide No. 89. 5. Ju Mahala — 4 fursangs — 18 fursangs, 3 hours, S. 15 hours. River of fresh water. 6. Kohistak — 3 fursangs — 21 fursangs, 2 hours, S. 17 hours. Eresh water from wells._ The road in these two stages is through the Min&b district. As far as Ju Mahala it is through cultivation ; after this it is over a less fertile plain, intersected with sand-hills, to Ziarat. 7. Geowg — 5 fursangs — 26 fursangs, 2| hours, S. 19J hours. Fresh water from wells. Cross Kohistak, Ziarat and Growg rivers. 8. Saeik — 2 fursangs — 28 fursangs, 1| hours, S. 21 hours. Fresh water from wells. The road is through sandhills. 9. Siktthi — 71 fursangs — 35 farsangs,4 hours, S. 25 hours. Fresh water from wells. The road is over a dead level about 3j miles from the sea. Cross Gaz and Hira rivers. 10. Gowen — 6 fursangs — 41 fursangs, 3 hours — 28 hours S. S. E. Brackish water from wells. Cross Kara and Brisk rivers. The road is over a dead level, about 3| miles from the sea as far as Brisk, where it turns south-east and loses sight of the sea by passing behind some sandstone cliffs. 648 BANDAR ABBA*SS TO U.R. t 11. Shebanan — 6 fursangs— 47 fursangs, 4 hours, S. E. 32 hours. Fresh water from wells. Cross Zangali river. The road goes for a couple of miles up the bed of the Zangali river, then gradually ascends over a plateau, and thence- gently descends to Sheran&n. 12. GUngan — 2 fursangs — 49 fursangs, 2 hours, S. 34 hours. Brackish water from wells. The road in this stage again goes down to the sea. 13. Jask — 7 fursangs — 56 fursangs, 6 hourq, E. S. E. 40 hours. Fresh water from wells. Cross Tarvakan, Bahanadi and Jask rivers. From Ziarat to this, in the district of Bigaban, nine rivers are crossed, coming down from the hilly country of Beshhankard. None of these flow throughout the year ; some have large pools in their beds even in the lowest season, and all become impassable torrents after rain in the upper country. Pelly says the distance is 300 miles, but this total does not agree with his list of dis- tances, which amount to 56 fursangs, or at the usual computation of 3j miles per fursang to 186| miles. If the distance is 300 miles, he calculates a fursang at 5j miles. It took him 8 days to go from Minab to Jask. (Pelly.) No. 14. BANDAR ABBASS to KIRMAN. 74 hours, 17 stages. 1. Nautawd — 1 hour. 2. Bangb"— 3 hours— 4 hours. 3. Ziabat — 4 hours — 8 hours. 4. Khushkoh — 3 hours — 11 hours. 5. Lutang —4 hours — 15 hours. 6. Paeiab — 4 hours — 19 hours. For stages 7 and 8, vide No. 89. 9. Gulashgied— 4 hours — 31 hours. 10. Chandaewa — 4 hours — 35 hours. 11. Sae-i-Asiab — 5 hours — 40 hours. 12. Jabutt — 6 hours — 46 hours. For stages 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, vide No. 89.— {Pelly). No. 15. BANDAR ABBASS to LAR. 102 hours, 18 stages. 1. Band-i-Ali — 3 hours. 2. Bostana — 4 hours— 7 hours. 3. Kazi — 7 hours— 14 hours. 4. Latidun — 6 hours — 20 hours. 5. Jangu — 3 hours — 23 hours. 6. Kehueistan — 8 hours — 31 hours. 7. BAEEiEH-i-StrLTAN— 5 hours— 36 hours. 8. Taki khaech — 7 hours — 43 hours. 9. Jeham — 8"bours — 51 hours. 10. Tang-i-Dalun— 8 hours — 59 hours. 11. Sae-i-Tang — 3 hours — 62 hours. 12. Aga Jamali — 9 hours — 71 hours. 13. Hoemaz — 6 hours — 77 hours. 14. Bbhadini — 9 hours — 86 hours. 15. Shah-i-Zangi — 5 hours — 91 hours. 16. Chae Bark a — 5 hours — 96 hours. 17. Tangunu — 3 hours — 99 hours. 18. Lab — 3 hours — 102 hours. This route is followed by caravans. — (Pelly). 4 K BANDAR ABBASS TO SHIEAZ. No. 16. BANDAE ABBASS to MINAB. (Delgah Route.) 1. Nakl-i- Khuda — 1 fursang. 2. Khushamadwali — 6 fursangs, 3. Hajiabad — 6 fursangs. 4. Minal — 2 fursangs. Total 15 fursangs. This route runs from 3 to 4 miles south of the Deh-i-nao route. No. 16 A. THE SAME. (DehA-nao Soute). 1. Deh-i-nao — 5 fursangs. 2. J alas — 4 fursangs. 3. Hasan Langi — 4 fursangs, 4. Minal — 5 fursangs. Total 18 Fursangs. This route runs parallel with the Shimal route, and about 3 to 4 miles south of it. — (P««y). No. 17. BANDAE ABBASS to MINAB. (Shimal route.) 1. Baughak — 4 fursangs. 2. Tank — 2 fursangs. 3. Khttshkoh — 2 fursangs. 4. Shimal — 5 fursangs. 5. Gwabband — 3 fursangs. 6. Shahvak— 3 fursangs. 7. Minab — 1 fursangs. Total 20 fursangs. This is the northernmost of the routes. It clings to the lower spur of the hills and sends off many branch routes into the interior. Its general direction is north- east to the hills, then east along the hills, then south-east lo Minab. — (Petty.) No. 18. BANDAE ABBASS to SHrEAZ. 207 miles, 69 hours, 12 stages. Badeand — 18 miles, 6 hours. The road is over a bare open plain. Water is obtained from wells and reservoirs. No supplies or fuel. Taj Koh — 18 miles — 36 miles, 6 hours — 12 hours. The country is open, but bare ; the road passes a gorge near village. "Water is obtained from springs. The camp is in a desert at skirt of the hills. Few supplies obtainable. Fueg — 15 miles — 51 miles, 5 hours — 17 hours. The road is through an open but bare and stony country. "Water is obtained from a small stream. The camp is in a desert. A few supplies obtainable. , Khaib-abad — 27 miles — 78 miles, 9 hours— 26 hours. The road is through an open, arid, and stony country. There is a kanat here with fine water led from a spring. The camp is in the open desert. Supplies here pro- cured from the neighbouring town of Darab. 650 BARFAHOSH TO TEHRAN. *■ 5. Daeab— 9 miles — 87 miles — 3 hours— 29 hours. The road goes through an open, arid, and Btony country. There are some springs of good water here. The camp is in the open desert. Supplies are plentiful here. 6. Tang-i-Daeakah— 27 miles- -114 miles, 9 hours— 38 hours. The country is open for the most pari ; a few ridges with passes over them. Hamlets of nomad families passed en route. Water is obtained from springs led through kanats. The camp is in an open desert. Supplies may be obtained from Fas£, which is about four hours distant. 7. Fasa — 12 miles — 126 miles, 4 hours — 42 hours. The country is open and the road good. Water is obtained from springs by kanats. The camp is in the open desert. Supplies are plentiful here, and animals for draught obtainable. Fruits tolerably plentiful. 8. Tang-i-Korm — 18 miles— 144 miles, 6 hours— 48 hours. The country is open, but some low passes are met with. Water is obtained from a small stream. The camp is in the open desert. Supplies are said to be abundant here. 9. Seevestan — 21 miles— 165 miles, 7 hours — 55 hours. The country is open, and the road has a tower at distance about 7 miles. Water is obtained from springs and kanats. The camp is in the open desert. Abounds in garden of lime and orange trees. A few" supplies obtainable; 10. Mahala — 18 miles — 183 miles, 6 hours — 61 hours. The country in this stage is open. Water is obtained from springs. There is a caravanserai here, but few supplies are obtainable. 11. Pul-i-Fasa — 15 miles — 198 miles, 5 hours — 66 hours. The country is open, and the road goes along the borders of a salt lake having hills on the left hand. Water from springs and small stream. The camp is in an open desert near bridge. Supplies procurable. 12. Shieaz — 19 miles— 207 miles, 3 hours — 69 hours. {Jones.) No. 19. BARFAROSH to TEHRAN: 7 stages, 125 miles. 1. Sheeoah — 20 miles. The road passes the village of Kiishnabad at 2§ miles ; and at 3j miles the Babal is to the right ; at 8 miles pass another village just before Shirgah ; ford" the Talar. The road is through jungle, and is very bad. 2 & 3. Thence to Gaduk, vide No. 132 — 2 stages, 33 miles— 53 miles. 4. Caeatanseeae-i-Dehchai — 17 miles — 70 miles. The road goes through a naked and barren country ; at 6 miles cross the Namriid, which is usually dry ; then ascend a hill ; at 13 miles pass Bagh-sMh. At opposite Sarbandan, 15 miles, come to the Delichai ; and at 17 miles the serae of this name. 5. Ain-i-vaezan — -17 miles' — 87 miles. The road goes over hills and rocks, and is very bad. There is a good deal of cultiva- tion here, and supplies are procurable. Water is good. From Ain-i-varzan a road goes to Firozkoh. 6. Damavand — 8 miles — 95 miles. The road is bad, pass the village of Absard, Takkin, Ahriin, and Bldek. At 2 miles pass the village of Gilard. 7. Tehban 30 miles — 125 miles. At 3 miles a road to Dam& vand turns off to the right ; and at 8 miles cross a small river running south. At 10 miles the village of Buyin, which can be made the stage. At 14 miles cross a brook, and at 21 miles cross the Jajrud by a ford ; then wind among hills for 10 miles with a long ascent from the river, and enter the plain of Tehran, which is reached in 6 miles. Jajrud is usually made the last stage. (Ouseley — Morier.) 651 BASRAH TO SHUSTAR. " No. 20. BASRAH to KOWEIT. 92 miles, 27 hows, 5 stages. 1. Zobee — 10 miles west south-west, 2J hours. Road good over a plain. Water abundant. Some supplies and carriage plentiful. 2. SALFtJN — 16 miles — 26 miles south-south-west, 4 hours. Road good over a plain. Water brackish but abundant. Forage procurable, but no fuel. 3. Camp in a ea vine— 35 miles— 61 miles south, 11J hours. Road over a desert of pebbles, with some j ungle grass, and cut up with shallow bed of ravines ; the last part over a richer soil with grass and brushwood. Water, grass and fuel procurable. 4. Jaheah — 15 miles — 76 miles, 5 hours, south. For 12 miles over a beautiful undulating plain covered with grass and flowers, then pass through a gap in a low range of sandstone, and 3 miles over a low plain. Water abundant. Some supplies procurable, also forage ; very healthy. 5. Koweit — 16 miles — 92 miles, 4 hours, east. Road over a low, flat, salt plain with hillocks of sand and a little grass, with the sea on the north. Supplies, water, fuel, forage abundant; but water rather brackish. (Pelly.) No. 21. BASRAH to SHUSTAR. 6 stages, 52 farsangs. 1. TJsha-wa— 6 farsangs. 2. Ahwaz — 12 farsangs — 18 farsangs. Over a desert destitute of water. 3. Solimania — 7 farsangs — 25 farsangs. Across a desert without water. 4. Sus — 8 farsangs — 33 farsangs. Cross Dizful river, 3 miles from Sus. 5. Dizful — 7 farsangs — 40 farsangs. Through a cultivated country. 6. Shootae — 12 farsangs — 52 farsangs. (Kinneir.) No. 22. BASRAH to SHUSTAR— {another route). 8 stages, 149 miles. 1. Mahamea — 26 miles. By water. 2. Sabla— 18 miles— 44 miles. On the Kariin river. 3. Ali Bel He"suN— 12 miles— 56 miles. A deserted village with a celebrated shrine. The road follows the river through an uncultivated country for the first six miles, then leaves it and does not regain it to the end of the stage. e 4. Samania— 20 miles— 76 miles. A village of 300 houses on the Kariin river. The road leads across the desert. Fol- lowing the banks of the river, the distance is 60 miles. 652 BEHBEHAN TO SHTJSTAR. 6. Ahwaz— 25 miles— 101 miles. The road quits the river on starting, and does not strike it again until within 3 miles of Ahwaz. 6. Weiss— 13 miles— 114 miles. A village on the Karan river, with 100 houses. 7. Band-i-Kib— 10 miles— 124 miles. Cross Karun. A village at junction of Rariin and Abzal, the first in Persian territory. 8. Shustab — 25 miles — 149 miles. Through a well cultivated country. No. 23. BEBAHAN to ISFAHAN. There is a route which goes by Deh Dasht and Sadat, and FellSt. It is frequently taken by caravans. No. 24. - BEBEHAN to SHIRAZ. 10 stages, 54 fursucks. 1. Khaebabad — 3 fursucks. Water from a stream. Trees, willows and gez. Road good. 2. Dagttmbezan — 8 fursucks — 11 fursucks. Water from a stream. Trees, willows and gez. Road good. -Caravanserai at this stage. 3. Basht — 8 fursucks — 19 fursucks. Water from a stream. Trees, willows and gez. Eoad good. 4. Chalmooeah — 4 fursucks — 23 fursucks. Water from a stream. Trees, willows and gez. Road good. 5. Chot-Htjssenee— 6 fursucks — 29 fursucks. Water from a stream. Trees, willows and gez. Has a water-mill. Road passable. 6. Kol-i-Mooed — 6 fursucks — 35 fursucks. Water from a stream. Konar. Road passable, has a caravanserai. 7. Kalxeh Mohomed Reza Khan — 6 fursucks — 41 fursangs. Water from a stream. Willows. Road good. 8. Shool — 4 fursucks — 45 fursucks. Water from spring. Fruit. Road good. 9. ZlEGtJN — 4 fursucks — 49 fursucks. Water from springs and a stream. Fruit and vines. Road good. 10. ShIeaz — 5 fursucks — 54 fursucks. Water from a spring. Fruit and vines. Road good. — {Petty.) No. 25. BEHBEHAN to SHUSTAR theough the KOHGILU' COUNTRY. 9 marches. KAi-KAtJs— 7f miles. The road lay across a plain, which extends from E. to W. for upwards of 9 farsangs (29 miles), and has a black fertile soil, to the village of Kai-Kaiis, 2 farsangs (71 miles) N. W. of Behbehan. 653 BEHBEHAN TO SHTJSTAB. About 1 farsang from the latter place, we crossed the River Kurdistan,* which is fordable at this spot, leaving on our right, a little up the stream, the village of Kazim, and on the left the villages of H6restan, Kurdistan, and Huseinabad. 2. Baba-Ahmed. At three quarters to 7 a. m. we were again on horseback. At half-past 7 we came to an old square building in the form of a Muselman Imam- zad^h. After we had crossed a low range of calcareous hills, we reached, at 8 o'clock, the village of Charr6. Continuing my march in a N. N. W. direction from the previous night's halting-place, at 9 a. M., I reached Tashiin.t Tashun has a spring of very clear water, where sacred fish are kept. We now moved in the direction of N. W., having to our right stupendous mountains, bearing from S. E. to N. W., and another range of calcareous hills of less altitude, in a parallel line, on the left. The road soon became very rugged, and the country around us dreary, and entirely devoid of vegetation. We crossed the dry beds of several mountain streams, and arrived at the entrance of Tengi-Saulek at noon, after a tedious march of 3 hours. Having ascertained that all was right, we entered the narrow defile, hemmed in be- tween lofty rocks, which overhang the way. A mountain stream flowed below. As we toiled on by a steep ascent, among loose stones, we came, at times, upon an old pavement, the polished stones of which were so slippery that the horses could with difficulty advance. The path soon widened, and we found ourselves in a grove of oaks, cypresses, and a tree peculiar to the southern parts of Persia, called the kiih-nar. I have only to add, what I learned from my guides, that there exists a communication between this spot and Isfahan ; and, though the road be very steep and rugged, still, to judge by the slippery worn-out pavement above alluded to, it formerly must have been much frequented. The night had nearly closed in when we emerged from the defiles of Tengi-Saulek, and I urged on my retinue in order to reach betimes the Imam-zadeh of Baba-Ahmed, If farsang (6 miles) distant, where I intended to halt ; but, as the road lay through an uneven country, and part of my attendants were on foot, we made little way, and I was forced to halt at the foot of the mountains of Nauzer, somewhat more than a farsang (3f miles) to the W. S. W. of Tengi-Saulek, and pass the night in the open air. Before sunrise I was once more on horseback, and arrived at Baba-Ahmed after an hour's ride (from 4 to 5 miles). At first we skirted the mountain of Nauzeer, and proceeded, after having rounded it, over uneven ground, much resembling that which we had passed over the previous day, consisting chiefly of gypsum hillocks, entirely destitute of habitatations, but offering here and there patches of green turf and brushwood, especially along the valley of a mountain stream which we crossed. Baba-Ahmed has some clear springs, and is surrounded by high reeds and grass. 3. Saeila. Baba-Ahmed is nearly W. of the entrance of Tengi-Saulek at the distance of If farsang (5£ miles). The road here winds over a hilly country in a N. W. direction. We soon (7 o'clock a; m.), crossed the river Mogher, coming from Tengi-Mogher, and soon after another river : both are greatly choked up with rushes, in which, my guide informed me, lions generally hide themselves during the day. At three-quarters past 7, crossed another mountain-stream. At 9 an ascent, and then a steep descent— the country much broken into hill and dale. At quarter past 9 the village of Bu-1-feriz, discernible in the direction N. by N. N. E.J At half-past 9 crossed the river of Bu-1-feriz. At a quarter past 10 a. m., turned to N. N. W. by N. W., and passed by the remains of some stone walls. At three-quarters past 10 crossed two rivulets ; the second was a stream of some size, but both were over- grown with high reeds (kamish). At 11 A. M. ascended a hill and went along a high table-land with traces of cultivated ground and former habitations. It had been inhabited by the Bu-1-ferizi, who, not able to resist the encroachments of the Behmei, had deserted the spot, and removed nearer to Behbehan. _ * The river of Km-distan, from the village so named. The common Turks and Persians have no notion of giving a general name to any but very large rivers, t Jarzoon in Kinneir, p. 457. % This and the following bearings are magnetic 654 BEIIBEHAN TO SHUSTAE. At a quarter past 11 a. m., crossed a stream covered with reeds, the country still hilly, and the mountains of Nauzer discernible to the S. E. At noon we were toiling up a very steep and craggy ascent winding among high mountains, which commanded it on the right and left. At half past 12, from the summit of the mountains along which we moved, I took the direction of the villages of Pate"k and Dalun, lying to the north on the plain below. Here the hills on our right slope gradually into the plain, having the Mungasht mountains behind them covered with snow. In order to elucidate the features of the country through which we have been travelling, I shall cast a retrospective glance over the road I have just passed. From Behbehan the general direction is north-west ; from the village of Tashun a secondary range of calcareous hills runs parallel to the high chain which constitutes the south-eastern continuation of Zagros (Zeitiin hills P). Both are intersected by valleys and ravines formed by the rivers and streams which flow in a south-westerly direction into the plain of Bam-Hormuz (or Rumiz, as the natives pronounce it), and the Cha'b country. The great chain bears different appellations from the defiles that divide it ; thus near Tashun it is called Tengi-bend (Barrier Strait or Narrows) ; beyond it to the N.-W. Tengi-Bejeck, where the Yusufi live; Tengi-Saulek with the Behmei tribe ; Tengi-Mogher, and lastly, Tengi-Bii-1-feriz. This range is very steep and mostly barren, although the oak and other forest-trees at times meet the eye. At three-quarters past 1 p. m., we came down on the plain of Patek (Sahrai-Patek), after having left behind us the encampment of the Behmei I'liyats under the sway of Khalil Khan, and reached the village of new Patek, leaving the ruins of the old one behind. At three-quarters past 2 p. M., we crossed the river of Allar, or Abi-Talh (Acacia- water), a considerable stream running from east to west between high banks. The village of Dalun, with an Imam-zadeh, was left on the right. At three-quarters past 3 p. m. we arrived at Sarila. 4. KiLA-TtJL. At 7 a. m., I resumed my journey from the ruins, leaving to my left two Imam-zadeh, and reached the river of Tezeng or A'lai, which coming from the east, runs in a broad valley between two ranges of mountains. At half past 7 a. m., I waded through the clear waters of the Tazeng, a broad and noble stream, with a hard gravelly bottom. A fortified Janeki village stands on its right bank, and another, surrounded by gardens, on its left. We now ascended a steep hill by a circuitous path, and entered a hilly country. The road first led to the north, then turned to the east, the general bearing being by compass north-east. At 9 a. m. we came to an arched gateway called Rahdar Dervazehi-gech. Prom Rahdar-Dervazehi-gech the fort of Mungasht lies due east. On reaching, at three-quarters past 9 A. M., a more open and elevated spot, my guide, a Behmei, whom I had picked up on the road, pointed out to me the ruins of the town of Tezeng (from which the river takes its name), bearing S. E. After a tedious march of 2g hours over the high and uneven country of the Sahra- gechi-dervazeh, we began the steep descent into the plain, having Munghasht to the east south-east, the road before us leading due north At 11 a. m. we crossed the river Tala coming from the valley of Mangan6n on the south south-east and in half an hour reached the ruins of Manjanik* in Baghi Maleh. I resumed my journey, and crossed at 1 p. m. the Abi-Zerd at the base of the mount above described. At 2 p. m. we ascended a hill, and in half-an-hour came down on the plain of Kale'h Tiil, f which place I reached at 3 p. m. 5. Mal-Ahmib — 19 miles, The distance from Tul to Mai-Amir is by estimate 4 farsangs (19 miles). The road is circuitous : a narrow and difficult pass through the mountains shortens the way by about a farsang. We moved about I5 hour in the direction of north-west across a " Or Manganik from the Greek May yavmbv, Manganikon. The Arabj. was ancientlj pronounced g. as in gold. Tul, i. e., Long. 655 BEHBEHAN TO SHUSTAE. plain, having to the right a high chain of mountains, and to the left a succession of lower ridges. On the road we passed close to a burying-place with a number of white tombstones. We next entered a defile, or narrow valley, in the hills, which brought us, after an hour's ride, to another plain called Halegiin. We forded the river of Halegiin, otherwise called Shah-ruben, an insignificant stream at this season of the year, and turning to the east entered on the great plain of Mai-Amir, and reached the tents of the mountaineers. Having little time to spare, I resolved, instead of visiting Shiishter, to return to Isfa- han by the Jaddehi Atabeg, but after the first day's march I learned that the pas- sage was closed for the season by heavy falls of snow in the mountains, and all communication precluded till the return of spring ; I had therefore to retrace my steps and take the circuitous road over Arabistan and Luristan, in order to return to Tehran. I obtained from a Bakhtiyari chief the following list of stations on the Jaddehi Atabeg, between Mai-Amir and Isfahan. The road was found practicable by the governor of Isfahan, who brought with him across the mountains two field-pieces, six pounders. From Mai-Amir to Chehar-Deh, or Kal'eh-medreseh. „ „ Dehi-diz. „ „ Revar. „ „ Helusad. „ „ Armen. „ „ Lurdegiin. „ „ Felad (probably Pellaut in Mr. Arrowsmith's map). „ „ Semiran. „ „ Kari, or to Kumish6h, and from thence by the usual road to Isfahan. I shall now shortly state the direction I took across the mountains from Mai- Amir to Shiishter, where I arrived on the fourth day. The distance in a direct line (due west), is not, I presume, more than 16 farsangs (60 miles) ; the windings of the road will add 4 or 5 farsangs (19 miles) more. Two roads lead from Mai-Amir to Shiishter : the first over Kal'eh-Tiil, Tauleh, and G-iigird ;* the second straight across the mountains, joining the former road near Khari-Shutur-Zar. I chose the latter, because it enabled me to gain a day, and at the same time to explore an unknown part of the country. The other road had al- ready been described by Major Kawlinson. 6. Camp — 11 miles. I left the camp of the governor of Isfahan, and of the Bakhtiyari chief, at a quarter past 12, and proceeded by the plain of Mai- Amir in a southern direction for three, quarters of an hour ; and then turning to west south-west by west, proceeded in that direction three-quarters of an hour more ; at the end of this time reached the river of Shah-ruben. After traversing a hilly country and crossing the river of Duruv, also a tributary of the Kuren, we struck to the south-west, and alighted for the night at a Bakhtiyari encampment of the Tembi tribe, having travelled 3 or 3| farshangs (11 miles). 1. Khae-i-Sht/tar Zae. We started at a quarter past 6 A. M. The road led west, over very steep hills, partly barren, partly covered with oaks and the kuh-nar. An hour brought us to a preci- pitous descent into the valley of Murdefil, in which some patches of ground are cul- tivated by the Janeki of the Arab-Gomish tribe ; the rest is all a slaty rock, the country wild and mountainous. At 9 we reached another valley, with some springs of fresh-water and a mineral spring. We crossed the Duruv (likewise called Murdefil) several times ; its water is Drackish. Two hours more brought us to the north-western extremity of this chain, at the foot of which is a sulphurous spring. The opposite, south-eastern extremity of Kiihi-Asmari I had seen from Manjanik; so that the whole extent of it, from south-east to north-west, may be estimated at from 5 to 6 farsangs (22 \ miles). It is distinguishable from the surrounding * Gulgir in Mr. R&wlinson'e notes. 656 BtJSHAHR TO BEBAHAN. mountains by its height and black colour, being almost entirely of slate, while the other hills are oalcareous. A plain, bounded at its northern extremity by a snowy range of mountains, lay on our right. On turning the angle of Kuhi-Asman we entered on the plain of Gugird, and, advancing in a south-west direction, soon arrived at some ruined buildings. The road leading from Tauleh joins that along which we were travelling, at the foot of some gypsum hills at the extremity of the plain, which is about 2 farsangs (7 miles) in breadth. These hills are not steep, and are the continuation of the Kiihi-Gech, which I had crossed on the other side of Manjanik. Their direction is from south-east to north-west parallel to the Asmari ridge. We cleared these hills in three-quarters of an hour ; forded a mountain stream full of reeds, and flowing from north to south I took up my quarters for the night at the hospitable tent of an old Janeki, who was encamped with his tribe in the plain of Khar-i-Shutur-Zar. Tauleh lies 6 farsangs (22 miles) south east from Khar-i-Shutur Zar ; and the river Kuren a day's journey to the north. 8. Bbitavand — 26 miles. We proceeded to Beitavend, 7 farsangs (26 miles), at first due west and then north-west. The snowy summits of Mungasht receded to the south-east. An hour's journey brought us to the boundary of the Janeki country and Shiishter. To the right of the line of road was the chain of Kiihi-Gech, and to the left Kiihi-Siyah. Behind the latter range dwell the Arabs of the Mesi-Beni tribe. After 3 hours' march from Khar-i-Shutur-Zar, we left on our right a road which leads also east across Kiihi-Gech to Gugird ; and passing the cultivated ground of Sheker- ab (sugar-water), we forded the river Shtirish-ab several times. The country is undulating. Beitavend which we reached after a march of 7 hours is situated at the foot of the gypsum hills, and surrounded by green fields and meadows, through which runs a rivulet coming from the mountains to the right, which I had crossed in approach- ing the place ; the water is brackish. 9. Shtjsteb — 15 miles. From Beitavend to Shiishter is called a distance of 4 farsangs (15 miles). We started at half-past 4 a. m. Tor the first hour we travelled south-west by west, through cul- tivated fields. After crossing the river Shiirish-ab, we turned, at half-past 5 A. M., • to the west, and went over broken hills of sandstone. At half-past 6 A. M. the bear- ing of the road was west north-west ; it retained this direction, with trifling variations, till we reached Shiishter. We passed on the way many ruined villages and old bends or dykes, which formerly had served to form reservoirs, as fresh water is scarce here. The country, as we approached Sinister, becomes more level and better cultivated. At half-past 8 A. M. the plain of 'Arabistan opened to our view, and the river Kuren was seen issuing from the hills to the right, and taking a south-south-westerly course towards Shiishter. The river Shurish, flowing in a north north-westerly direction joins it at the village of Akili, near the mountains. On approaching the town, the road passed close to the ruined mosque of Pfr-i- Shemsu-d-din, perched on the summit of a steep hill from the top of which I had a commanding view over the whole country. The. Imam-zadeh Sahib-Zeman was next passed, and we at length entered Shiishter, at 11 a. m., from the east over a low stone bridge, which serves as a bend to distribute the waters that flow from the Kuren in this direction into various channels for the use of water-mills. No. 26. BU'SHAHR to BEBAHAN by BANDAR DIXAM. 125 miles, 53 hours, 9 stages. 1. Chahgadak— 16 miles, 5 hours. Tide No. 103. 2. Bohilla — 25 miles — 11 miles, 9 hours, north-west. As far as Ahmadi, 5 miles, vide No. 103. Thence the road is over a level plain to the Rohilla river, here 100 yards broad, with a current of 2 miles, crossed by a ford up to horses' girths. Water from the river slightly brackish. Encamp on a desert plain. Some supplies, forage, fuel and cattle procurable. 657 4 l BtJSHAHR TO FIE6zABAD. 3. Bandae Beq — 18 miles — 59 miles, 6 hours, north-west. Road over a level, uncultivated plain, cross a large ravine at 5 miles. At 9 miles come to wells of AMghreb, where there is good water and cultivation. 4. Kala-Ka-Haidae — 15 miles — 74 miles, 5 hours, north north-west. Eoad over a plain with occasional patches of cultivation. Passing a well of good water at about 8 miles, and the village of Bakula at 12 miles. 5. Kala HisXe — 18 miles — 92 miles, 6 hours, north-west. The road goes through an open country, intersected by ravines for 3 miles, to a sandstone range, which it passes through. Then for 6 miles over very broken ground with a ridge of rocks on the west and occasional patches of cultivation, to Bagh, a weU of good water ; then it enters an open plain but bare and salt at first, and then with some grass, brushwood and patches of cultivation. It then goes over a very broken country among passes of rocks to a ridge of sandstone ; which crossed, the road leads through a basin of alluvial deposit to a large nullah with salt water in it, which has to be forded. There are four wells of good water here. 6. Bandae Dilam — 12 miles — 104 miles, 4 hours, north north-west. The road first goes over a plain, broken with small mounds, to the village of Leliti in 4 miles ; at 7 miles fords a large and deep ravine having passed through cultivation, then enters a plain covered with grass, succeeded in 1 mile by a barren sandy plain impreg- nated with salt, to Bandar Dilam. 7. LiEAvf — 21 miles — 125 miles, 7 hours, north. The road is open over a plain. Water is good from a rivulet. Some grain and cattle are procurable here. 8. Zeitun — 18 miles— 143 miles, 6 hours, north. The road is over an undulating plain covered with mounds. There is a small rivulet of fresh water here. Grain and cattle are procurable. 9. Bebahan — 15 miles — 158 miles, 5 hours, north. The road is over an open plain. "Water is procurable from wells and a stream. Supplies of all description plentiful ; carriage procurable. Thence to Shiraz, vide Nos. 24 and 101 ; to Shiistar, vide No. 25. No. 27. B17SHAHE to FIEOZABAD by AHEAM. 124 miles, — hours, 8 stages. TEi-l-Sf ah— 12 miles. Eoad quite level, partly through swampy tracts, during spring tides. Water good. Some slaughter cattle procurable. Aheam — 12 miles — 24 miles. Eoad level, over a pebbly plain destitute of verdure. Water brackish from springs. Some few supplies and slaughter cattle procurable. Tang-i-Bawash — 12 miles — 36 miles. The road is on a plain at first, but afterwards it closes into the hills. No supplies ; but water procurable from a rivulet. Kaiameh — 15 miles — 51 miles. The road is confined, passing through an easy defile. Water procurable from springs and wells. Some supplies may be got from the nomads. Bashkan — 6. FabjCshband — 7. Fibozabad. — Tide No. 102. Captain Jones, however, makes from Kaiameh to Bashkan 15 miles against 20 miles of Hardy ; from Bashkan to Farashband, 15 miles against 33 miles ; and Farashband to Firozabad, 30 miles against 38 miles— Total 60 miles against 91 miles. Jones has a stage half way between Farashband and Firozabad called Dashtak-i-Siah. This route is given by Captain Jones apparently from native information. — Vide Eoute No. 102, by Captain Hardy. (Jones). 658 BtlSHAHR TO SHfRAZ. No. 28. BITSHAHR to PIROZABAD by TANGISTAN. 179 miles, 45 hours, 9 stages. 1. Tangistan — 20 miles, 5 hours, south-east. 2. Gahina — 8 miles, 2 hours — 28 miles, 7 hours, south. 3. DaeXzI — 16 miles, 4 hours — 44 miles, 11 hours, east-south-east. 4. Khabmuj — 8 miles, hours — 52 miles, 13 hours, east. Thence vide No. 30 ; 127 miles — 179 miles, 32 hours — 45 hours, 5 stages — 9 stages. (Pelly.) No. 29. BUSHAHR to HINDI AN by the COAST. 131 miles, 35 hours, 7 stages. As far as Bandar Dilam, vide Route No. 26. Thence to Hindian is 27 miles or 9 hours, north-west. The road leads over a plain, salt and sandy towards the sea, hut grassy towards the hills to Shekh Abdula, about 8 miles. At 6 miles cross a ravine filled with salt water ; then for 10 miles over a barren marshy plain, then the remainder over a plain gradually rising towards the south and sloping to the foot of the hills. The River Hindian is crossed just before reaching the town by ferry. (Petty.) No. 30. BUSHAHR to SHTRAZ by KHORMUJ and FIROZABAD. 246 miles, 61 hours, 13 stages. 1. To Chagadak — Vide No. 103, 16 miles, 5 hours. 2. Baghak — 8 miles, 2 hours — 24 miles, 6 hours, east-south-east. Thence road to Ahram, vide No. 42. Water from wells. 3. Golaki — 16 miles, 4 hours — 40 miles, 10 hours, south-east. Water from wells. 4. Khobmuj — 8 miles, 2 hours — 18 miles, 12 hours, east south-east. Thence road to Dehrez, and by Gahina and Tangistan to Biishahr. Water from stream and wells. 5. Khawiz — 20 miles, 5 hours — 68 miles, 17 hours, first south-east, then east, and finally north. At the point where the road turns north, it goes north-east to Chenir and thence to Bashkan north north-west, or Shiimbeh south-east. Water from stream and wells. 6. K ala ma — 16 miles, 4 hours — 84 miles, 21 hours, north. Prom this (vide No. 102) 162 miles, 40 hours — 246 miles, 61 hours, 7 stages. (Pelly.) No. 31. BUSHAHR to SHrRAZ feom SHIP. 196 miles, 50 hours, 7 stages. This route crosses the Bay of Biishahr north-east to Shif. BtJBAZJtJjr — 24 miles, B. N. E — 6 hours — 48 miles. Prom Burazjun there are three paths to the Gisakan Range ; 1st, from Radhar to Bagh-i-Larda ; 2nd, from Burazjun to Bagh-i-Chahriid ; 3rd, the route by Nanezak and the Gichadah Pass to Anaristan. 659 CHOBAE TO BAMPUR. 2. Si5k— 24 miles, S. E.— 72 miles. "Water from wells. Thence a road practicable goes by Tangiran, Dehrti and Bush- kan on the Firozabad road. The road passes Nanezak at 8 miles, and then enters the Gisakan Pass. 3. PtfsHT-i-PAE— 20 miles, N. E.— 92 miles. The road goes by the village of Tangiran and Mordechai, crossing over a ridge. From Tangiran there is a direct road to Burazj6n by Taj. 4 Jebeh— 32 miles, N. E. — 124 miles, N. E. The road goes over a ridge to Huse'nabad, 8 miles, then by a plain to Sereh. From this there is a mule track to Shiraz direct, and a road by Nugan to Farashband and Firozabad. 5. Dabiacheh — 16 miles, N. — 140 miles. 6. Eohmaeeh — 24 miles — 164 miles. 7. ShJeaz — 32 miles — 196 miles. Pelly says this is the most direct route to Shiraz.. — {Petty.) No. 32. CHINARAN by TABU'S to TUN. Chekttch Sae Vilayai — 10 miles. SIjltAn MaidAn — 5 miles — 15 miles. NiSHAPtJE — 10 miles — 25 miles. Kalah Maidan — 10 miles — 35 miles. Sadabad — 10 miles — 45 miles. Thence vide No. 93. — (Kinneir.) No. 33. CHOBAR to BAMPUR by EASARKAND. 1. TfzOPAN — The road is good but long, and in hot seasons there is great scarcity of water. 2. Nagoe. 3. Kasaekand — The first six miles over a plain ; at 12 miles over steep hills; the next six, over plain of Dashtgari. 4. Geh— 31 miles. At 4| miles Het, a fine village and post ; at 9 miles pass Bug on left. The rest of the road is over hills and through ravines. Water and supplies procurable here. 5. Hechan — The road goes over hills and through ravines. Water from a ravine. 6. SaekiJ— The road is exceedingly steep and difficult through the Hechan Nala. This is one of the passes into Makran, of which there are between Mersab and Ehelat-i-Seva ; all so difficult that they might be defended by a small body of men. 7. Lashab — The road goes for 8 miles through ravines, and the remainder through the ravine of Lashar. Springs of water in most places. 8. Gishk— 27 miles. At 2 miles pass Isfaka, a large village; at 14 miles quit Lashar ravine and enter sandhills, at 27 miles Gishk ; no village. Water brackish. 9. Bampue — 13 miles. At 10 miles cross Bampur Nala. — (Grant.) 660 No. 84. CHOBAR to J ASK. 1. GIAni NadI— 6 kos. On the banks of a river ; no inhabitants. 2. Saeo Nadi — 7 kos. On the banks of a river ; no inhabitants. 3. KiNjtJN — 8 kos. The country is level and sandy ; small village. 4. Gwak — 8 kos. No water except here to Gabrach. 5. Gabbach — 8 kos. Small village. Water in wells, not good or plentiful. 6. Jangan —6 kos. Small village. Water in wells, not good or plentiful. 7. Jask — 5 kos. Water in wells and plenty. — (Kinneir.) No. 35. CHOBAfi, to KEJ. 1. Nagob — 6 kos. The country is rather hilly ; one or two ravines are crossed. 2. Bhow — 5 kos. The country is rather hilly ; one or two ravines are crossed. 3. Pishin — 5 kos. The country is hilly. Water abundant. 4. Mbda — 5 kos. The country is hilly ; there is a small village here and fort. 5. TtfMP— 5 kos. Small village and fort. 6. NasababAd — A village. Water plenty and good. 7. Kbj— Water abundant. Country hilly. — (Kinneir.) No. 36. DARAB to SHTRAZ by the NIR1TZ LAKE. 9 stages, 182 miles, 47| hours. 1. Mapavan — 20 miles, 15J hours, west north-west. The road first goes through a pass, then over a fine cultivated plain, west north-west, crossing many water-courses and one river Riid-i-bar. The direction then changes north-west at 10 miles. The road goes close to some hills and resumes the direction west north-west, then cross a river, and then over a salt plain to Madavan. 2. I'each — 25 miles, 7 hours— 45 miles, 12£ hours, north-west. At 1 mile pass a ruined village on the right of road ; at 2 miles village of Kuhash ; at 4 miles come to a defile between two hills, forming banks of yellowish clay on each side, nearly perpendicular and 80 or 90 feet high, the road not being more than 9 or 10 feet wide ; and a little farther on is another defile, narrower and with not less perpendicular sides. Then the road is hilly and stony for 3 or 4 miles to a plain, and at 10 miles pass village of Derakan, then over a plain called Sahra-i- Karabalagh ; and at 13 or 14 miles pass through a large cemetery, and then to Tang-i- I'rach, a narrow defile, and in 4 miles more reach Trach. The village is also called Ij. 3. Savon at — 15 miles — 60 miles, 3| hours— 16 hours, north-west. The road goes over the plain for 2 miles. It then begins to wind among the inequali- ties of a very rugged hilly path for 9 miles north north-west, being in many places as bad as the worst passes between Bushahr and Shiraz. It then emerges on to a plain on which it continues to the stage. It is a large village, and supplies are procurable. 661 DAB,Xb TO KAZIRtjM. 4. Khbib — 15 miles — 75 miles, 4 hours — 20 hours, north north-west. The road goes over the plain for 3| miles to a reservoir of water, then goes close to the hills, west north-west. At 7 miles pass a rahdari and at 11 miles another reservoir ; at 13 miles the village of Maiman whence the Lake of Niriz is visible ; in 2 miles or more reach Kheir. A few supplies are procurable. 5. Khan-i-Kabd — 20 miles — 95 miles, 5 hours — 25 hours, west north-west. The road goes for 6 miles over a plain to a hot spring, the water of which is slightly brackish. Thence it goes near the lake over a dead plain covered with salt, and without a sign of habitation anywhere. There is only a ruined caravanserai here, and a stream of brackish water. Supplies must be brought from the last camp. 6. Gawakan — 32 miles — 127 miles, 8 hours — 33 hours, west north-west. The road goes over a plain for 8 or 10 miles, encrusted with salt. At 18 miles enter district of Karbal. Water from the river. 7. Bandamie — 20 miles — 147 miles, 6 hours — 39 hours, west north-west. The road goes along the right bank for 3j miles to the Piil-i-Gawakan, where it crosses to the left, along which it continues over a perfectly flat plain much intersected by irrigation drains. Some supplies are procurable here. Water is good. Thence 11 miles north-west are the ruins of Persepolis. 8. Zaeoun — 18 miles — 165 miles, 4J hours — 43^ hours, west north-west and south-west. The road goes along the left bank of Bandamir to Pul-i-Khan, where it crosses and then goes south-west to Largiin. Supplies and carriage procurable here. 9. Shieaz — 17 miles — 182 miles, 4 hours— 47s hours, south-west. The road is generally rugged and stony. At 7 miles cross the Ab-i-Barik and then come to the Kotal-i-Bajgah ; then go over the plain by the River Rukni to the Tang-i-AUah-Akbar, whence to Shiraz. No. 37. DARAB to KAZIRITM by JEHRITM and FIROZBABAD. 11 marches — 275j miles. Trom Darab to Jehrlim are 18 fursacks = 63 miles. . 62 „ = 217 . 8 „ = 28 „ . 12 „ =42 „ . 12 or 13 = 42 to 45. Bundi Abassi Eej „ Istahvonat „ Neyriz Madaotjn — 17 miles. Our first stage was made as follows : — li mile W. i „ 245° i „ 265 i .. 235 i „ 252 * „ 235 * „ 245 i „ 260 to village Berghan. * ,, 220 * .. 230 1 „ 220 3 „ 250 to village Dehekestan. 1 „ 250 to ruinous bridge over small but deep stream flowing from the north. 2 „ 290 f „ 285 * » 295 t „ 297 f „ 320 to village Kiassi, where no provender for our cattle being procurable, we passed onwards £ a mile on a bearing of 310<>, $th mile 295», and 2 miles 335°, to the village Madaoun, from whence Darab bears due east, 4J fursacks distant. 662 DARA*B TO KAZIRtJM. 2. NAsfEABAB — 28 miles — 45 miles. On the 27th March I proceeded on the bearings given in the margin,* immediately passing through low rooky hills into a small plain clothed with tufts and bushes ; some of the latter hear a long pink globe with a small flower at the extremity, which indeed is observed in many parts of the Ghermsir. Subsequently we entered amongst low hills by a bad road, leading in a general direction of 295°, a scattering of the benneh-tree and swarms of locusts were the only objects to notice. We then entered upon a more open country, and again traversed a tract where fossil shells are found. Subsequently the road led through ravines, which brought us into a fine plain belonging to the district of Fessa, extending in length some 15 miles from north-west to south-east, by about 5 miles in breadth ; it is covered with fine turf and tufts, in which the sand-grouse greatly abound at this season. "We finally reached Nasirabad. 3. Jehbtjm — 30 miles — 75 miles. We proceeded from Nasirabadf and crossed low hills extending into the plain from the west, and entered the district of Jehrfim. At the 4th mile we passed the village fort Kiishkh, and at the 7th rounded the hills to our right, and, quitting this corner of the plain, entered a broad valley. The 8th mile brought us past the small village Kamshi, and, f a mile beyond, to the ruins of the village Chehar Tagh. After this the valley expanded, and we entered another plain, and, at the 10f mile reached Bab Arab, a rather pretty village. The eastern half of this plain is uneven, and of extremely stony and unprofitable land ; the length is from east to west. The 25th mile brought us near the village Hyderabad, and thence 4| miles to Jehrum. Distance reckoned at 8 fursaeks, or 28 miles. My reckoning gave 29| miles. Groceries, spices, and cotton manufactures are brought from India by Bunder Abbassi, Assalu, and Bushir. * Distances and hearings. [ mile , ... 245° ... 235 to low rocky hills, and through thence into small plain by slight ascent. \ mile 260° M 275 when we quitted plain, and passed amongst low hills. f mile 1* 4 shells occur, mile ... ... 6»6° . 260 . 270 . 235 across a plain. . 240 by gentle ascent. , 270 . 255 . 265 , 250 255 over low hills, in which fossil 266° over open country. 260 i mile . 4 „ . 14 14 i ! 4 i ... 270 ... 280 ... 270 ... 290 ... 250 by descent. ... 240 ... 210 through ravines. ... 220 ... 240 ... 200 ... 250 reach fine plain. ... 240 ... 250 to village of Nasirabad. 28j- miles. The distance, however, is called only 7 fursaeks. found no water on the road during this march. We t Distances and bearings. | mile . into ■■ mile 190° . 225 . 180 190 across low ridge of hills extending plain from west. Enter district of Jehrum. 195° ... 190 to near village of Knshkh. 195° 210 enter broad vaUey. 236 past village Kamshi. ... 250 270 to ruinB of village Chihar Tagh. 275° 270 ... 260 enter another plain. ... 265 ... 260 to Bab Arab. 270 265 277 260 270 250 J mile 260 to broad dry bed of stream, called Bud Khaneh Shur, flowing from north-west to south-east at certain seasons only. 4 mile 4 4 I 1 1 I 4 4 1 1 4 ! 4 4 2 4 14 265° 250 285 . 295 265 250 , 245 240 . 225 . 200 215 and pass village of Hyderabad. . 216° , 195 . 220 205 210 245 to Jehrum. 29| miles. 663 DAKAB TO K^ZIUtjM. 4. MbbaetJkabad — 16 miles — 91 miles. On quitting Jehr&m* we proceeded along the plain and crossed some low hills, 2J miles west of the town. This brought us into a valley, through which we passed by a very rough road. At the 4th mile we crossed some mountains by a bad and difficult pass, called Giidar Naal Shiken (the Destroyer of Horse-shoes), from whence Jehrum bears 75°. A few minutes' labour brought us to the summit. These mountains extend north-west and south-east, and fths of a mile north of them is a parallel range; but neither is of great height. The descent led us through a broad valley, which finally terminated in a country of low hills and valleys. The 10^ mile brought us to another pass, called Kassettii, which led us by a descent into the district of Kazin. One mile further brought us to a second descent, over very rough ground, and we entered a narrow rough valley over the worst piece of road I have ever encountered ; our horses, though led, were scarcely able to maintain their footing, and plunged violently. At the 16th mile we descended towards the small but nretty vale of Miibarekabad, extending east and west, and generally covered with green turf, and bushes principally of the kdnar. It is several miles in length, but of inconsiderable width, probably not more than li mile. • ■* 5. Camp — 21 miles — 112 miles. On the 31st March we continued our way along the vale, which extends on a bearing of 290°, and at this season affords excellent pasturage.f Towards the 6th * Distances and bearings. \ mile ... ... 230° 1 „ ... ... 240 i „ - ... 230 i ,. •■• ... 250 4 ... 250 cross low hills. 1 „ ... ... 250 % „ ... ... 300 1 „ ... ... 290 1 „ ... ... 310 i „ ... ... 255 through rough valley $ , 250 ascending over mountains, and a difficult pass to summit of ascent. 1\ mile 285° descent through broad valley; numerous fossils strewing the ground. 1 mile 2fiO r 1 „ 255 215 $urile . 1 » H ., l „ i: i I li 1 still descending through above valley, which terminated in a country of low hills and val- leys. ... 220 ... 190 ... 215 ... 225 ... 205 ... 240 to the pass of Kassetu. ... 240 descending the above pass; more fossils observed ; enter Kazin. t mile 180° to a second descent over very rongh ground. t mile . barekabad. t mile ... 1 8 miles. 155° 180 , 230 , 250 . 215 through narrow rough valley. 180° , 135 , 120 .210 and 254° by exceedingly bad road. . 295° here fossilized rock. 275 180 . 130 thus far descending. 225 ascent over bare rock. 190 170 by descent towards plain of Mu- 210° along plain. . 225 . 215 , 290 to Mubarekabad. 260° . 270 . 280 . 285 265 . 280 . 300 . 305 . 270 , 320 . IT. , 300 . N.W. 295 305 • 295 . 275 295 310 295 285 near to Gherghaoun. 315 310 to Aliabad. . 310 345 t Distances and bearings i mile ... i ■n 300 290° 320 to river. 305 320 350 300 350 to bank of do. ... 280 parallel with above river; here i passed village of Ltferjan. le ... 270° ... 260 skirting hills. ... 230 to date grove. ... 215 to village Pedan. . . 245 to Kaleh Kulu Kellahi, ... 290° ... 265 ... 270 ... 280 ... 280 :.. 255 to palm grove. ... 266 to Segdawan. ... 190 to camp of Eel Begghi. 22g miles. 664 darXb to kazieum. mile the valley had shrunk to about half a mile in breadth. We occasionally passed a few black tents of the Cashgkan tribe, and, at the abovementioned dis- tance, passed the small village Gherghaoun, 1 mile to our left, inhabited by a race called Kiilu, who, I was told, are descendants of negroes. The 12th mile led us to Alliabad, a ruinous village containing only five or six families, and an imamzadeh of Sheikh Eustum, the brother of Shah Cheragh, a miserable-looking mud build- ing. The 13j mile brought us to a river, flowing north and south for a short space, about 100 yards in breadth, and in parts nearly up to the horses' girths. After fording the river, we presently came again to its right bank by a bend it had taken, and proceeded near and parallel to it, but with a high ridge of rocks between it and us for about two miles, when we passed the remains of a fort in those rocks called Perr Aly, and the village Liferjan. Thence we skirted the hills on our right for three-fourths of a mile, which brought us to the village Pedam. This part of the plain is extensively cultivated, and has a very pleasing appear ance with its fields and groves. The I85 mile brought us to the groves and ruined village of Kaleh Kulu Kellahi, near which rises a remarkable-looking rock ; then passing more groves we reached, at about the 20th mile, the village Kiirshu, partly in ruin, but possessing also extensive plantations, and half a mile beyond the village of Segdawan. Thence we made about two-thirds of a mile to the camp of the EelBegghi. 6. Baeonej — 25 miles— 137 miles. I then proceeded to the village Kir,* and thence over stony ground, the plain lessening as we advanced westward, and may be said to terminate at about the 65 mile west of Kir. We then ascended between parallel ranges of hills for about 4 miles ; then descending about 2 miles by an execrable road through a valley, entered a partly- cultivated vale, possessing palm groves, a little stream, and a growth of reeds, &c. The 12J mile brought us to the village Bagh Pesserler, then deserted. Presently after we crossed hills and undulating country, more or less clothed with bushes and a sprinkling of the benneh tree. At about the 20th mile we ascended through a pretty vale, in which there was abundant pasturage, and consequently numerous scattered encampments of Eeliats. The little hamlet of Babonej, with garden-land attached, occurred at the 25th mile. 7. Fieozabad — 30 miles — 167 miles. We were oft this morning ere the day had well opened.f At the end of the 2nd mile, we ascended through hills by a stony hard road ; and towards the 3rd mile com- * Distances and bearings. 1 mile ... ... 315° to Kir. 1 mile .. ... 280~) J „ ... ... 285 1 , ... ... 290 i ,, ... ... 320 li . ... ... 300 1 i „ .. ... 305 i , ... ... 270 J- over hills. 4 „ ... ... 270 2 » ... 290 1 li „ ... ... 280 it , ... 300 1 i „ ... ... 270 , ... 270 J 24 „ ... ... 275 plain terminates. 24 , ... 280 ascend through a pretty vale. 3 „ ... ... 280 ascending between parallel ranges i , ... 270° of hills. i • ... ... 275 1 mile ... ... 295° i , ... ... 300 1 ... 295 by descent. i 1 ... ... 230 to Babonej. it ., - ... 190 — i „ ... ... 231) enter valley. 25 miles. i „ ... ... 270 to Bagh Pesserler. t Distances ind bearings. i mile ... ... 330° imile ... ... N. 8 „ ... ... 300 i „ ... ... 90 1 „ ... i „ ... '.'.'. ax>} a,lo ' aevisia - i ,, ... .. 135 ... 30 i ,. .. '.'.'. 330 j I ... 110 !:: ::: "■ |y°, Uhrough hills by bad stony road. i „ ... ... 10 ... 70 i » ... '.'.'. 325* i „ ... ... 310 Ascend over mountains in general direction n. e. for J „ ... ... 135 3 miles. i ... K. ■It mile, between sr. e. and n., descending. i ... 135 i » ... ... 340° 2 „ ... ... 340 to foot of descent A ... 30 1 ;: ::: i ... 45") l" " '.'.'. 2 „ ... ... 320 ... 350 ".'. 45C lly asceut . * ,, ... ... ao J "! 315J i ... 315 665 DAKAB TO KAZIEtJM. menoed a great ascent over mountains, the road varying so much as between north and south-east, but extending in a general direction of north-east across the hill for a distance of about 3 miles. This is a very difficult pass, the road leading generally over bare slippery rock, on which the cattle scarcely maintain a footing, and where ledges of rock crossing the path or steep rises and falls add to the difficulty. We descended towards the end of the 6th mile. Close by our left was a broad and magnificent chasm, through which the Fimzabad stream flows southward; the mountain split in twain by some great convulsion, leaving the sides of the gulf in some parts several hundred feet in perpendicular height, each projection of the one side having a corresponding cavity in the one opposite, so that were the rocks brought together again they would fit accurately the one into the other. The scenery, as we descended, increased in grandeur, and the path leading constantly over bare, slippery rock and dangerous inequalities made it frequently neecssary to dismount. Towards the 11th mile we reached the termination of the descent, where the Firuzabad stream enters the deep chasm. This is a fine, clear rivulet, pretty at this part, and perhaps 30 paces wide, and is here joined by a stream let from the north-west. All the country we had passed thus far to-day was more or less sprinkled with bushes amongst which the wild almonds was conspicuous. We made a slight ascent, and then got into the vale through which the stream flows and ascended by it. The hills on our left, having a northerly aspect, were slightly dotted with green turf; this and the vale itself, which is under cultivation, and the bushes along the stream, rendered the ride a very pleasant one. The 20th mile brought us to a small ravine full of trees and myrtle -bushes, close to which is the small village of Rudbal, one of the Eebek-eh. We then proceeded through a fine and very remarkable mountain-pass, some 250 yards in breadth, the rocks on either side rising to an elevation probably- of 500 feet, and, for the most part, nearly per- pendicular. This led into the vale of Tidesht, at the 22j mile. It is 1-J to 2 miles in breadth, runs from north-west to south-east, and is for the most part under cul- tivation. The district of Meymen lay between north and north-east of this, beyond high mountains. The vale is interrupted towards its north-western extremity by a line of hills running a short distance through its centre longitudinally ,■ and at the 27^ mile, we came abreast of a high rock, rising at the extremity of the vale, to the north-east of which, at a mile distant, is the small village of Tidesht, lying under the hills. We then made about 2 miles across the plain of Firuzabad. I mile ... which I mile . ... 290 descending into vale through the Firuzabad river flows southward. 300° 285 298 310 290 , 310 , 28S , 320 . ir. . 45 -) 90 ' ' 46 . ascending. '. 3ls) . 315 . 290 . 300 Q .. 285 . 290 . 310 ,. 290 ,. 310 .. 285 .. 320 . N. .. 305 .. 280 .. 300 286 !■ by alight ascont over hills. . 285 . 300 imile i „ 29§ miles. 290 210 290 to a little ravine full of trees. , 60° through a remarkable mountain , 90° . 25 , 350 . 330 . IT. . 45 . 90 . 45 to ir., and enter vale of Tidesht. . 350° . 340 . 330 . 320 . 300 . 305 . 295 . 300 . 295 . 315 . 330 . 320 ' 330 f aovoss P' a * n or Firuzabad. '. 310 . 305 . 330 . 320 to Firuzdbad- 066 DARAB TO KAZIRljM. 8. Ahmadabad— 8 miles— 175 miles. I quitted the place, however, on tho 6th of April. My road led me on the bearings as in the margin.* The 3rd mile brought us to the defile called the Teng-ab, down which flows the stream watering this plain, and through which the road to Shiraz leads. It is a rocky and rather fine pass, and at about a mile from its entrance is found a taMet of ancient sculpture. We descended the valley again to examine the remains of the Atesh Gar, or Atesh Kuddeh (Fire-Temple), situated a quarter of a mile south-west of the entrance to the defile. Prom the Atesh Kuddeh we proceeded three-quarters of a mile south to Ghilek, then to the village Kilissian and Ahmedabad. 9. FakXshbant) — 38 miles — 213 miles. From Ahmedabadf we continued along the plain, a fine tract of turf where not cultivated. At the 8th mile we ascended by a pleasant road, through hills covered with almond and other bushes and a sprinkling of tree. The 10| mile brought us to a steep and bad descent through a fine pass, very rough and rocky. This opened, towards the 14th mile, into a vale running north-west and south- east, of which the surface was uneven, stony, and perfectly arid. At the 18th mile we again ascended hills, after crossing which we entered a defile, and alighted to breakfast at the 20th mile, near a building used as a caravansarai ; from thence our path led down the defile about half a mile, when we descended hills for about 2 miles, where the road is strewed with fossils of the oyster, scolloped bivalve, and cockle-shells ; on one side of the road they were thickly embedded in the soil. Thus far the road had been most difficult, at every five hundred paces leading over rocky, mile 335° to Ser Meydan. 330 ., 310 > 340 325 „ 335 „ 350 and through hills. , 335 to corner of plain and defile of Turgab. mile ir., and 310" to sculptures, return to entrance of pass. t Distances and bearings * Distances and bearings. \ mile from entrance of pass, in direction s. w.. Attesh Euddah. | mile s. to village Ghilak. to the 8} miles. * A mile S 1* ... 285°1 ... 275 .. 285 ... 275 ...280 }■ Along the plain of Firuzabad. .. 270 ... 275 ... 215 ... 255 ... 270 ~| ... 315 I ... 225 | ... 215 I ascend over hills covered with ... 150 f bushes. .. 230 | ... 260 I ... 210 J ... 320 by steep and bad descent. ... 270° general direction by windings. ... 285°-> ... 235 ... 250 ... 270 ... 270 ' ... 240 ... 265 ^through vale. ... 370 ... 315 . ... 290 over hills. ... 300 descending. ... 250 ... 280° ... 275 , 180 250 I , -through defile. , 200 ) alight to breakfast near cara- vansarai and spring of water. J mile ... i „ ... i „ ... 4 shells. imile ... i » ... [mile . s. w. . 200° . 260 , s. w. to Kilissian. s. w. to Ahmedabad. ... s.w. down defile. ... s. ... 160 ... B.E. ... 200 descending hills. ... 150 ... 200 ... 225 ... 245 ... s.w. ... 250 ... 240 ... 270 ... 290 ... 240 ... 270 here the road strewed with fossil ... S.E. ... S. ... 256° ... s. ... 210 across vale running ir. w. and >.. 236° to opposite side of vale. $ , 340° by rough descent. i „ 270 into plain of Ferashbund. 2 265° 1* 270 2 , 290 hills on left receding. i „ 260 off direct road to some tents. i 320° again into high roadj hills on right i mile distant. 4 miles 315° H » 355 to Ferashbund. 38 T; j miles. 667 DARAB TO KAZIRTJm. and to the horses, dangerous, parts. At the 24| mile we crossed a vale running north-west and south-east, three-quarters of a mile to the opposite side, when we again descended over very rooky and difficult ground into a recess of the plain of Ferashbund at the 26| mile, the path continuing over very rough ground. This recess of the plain is about 1J mile broad, very stony, but with plenty of grass and bushes. We reached the village Ferashbund at the end of 38 miles, according to my reckoning ; the distance from Firiizabad is reckoned at only 9 fursucks, and from Ahmedabad about 3 miles less. 10. Ishfaejan— 25 miles — 238 miles. We quitted Perashbund* in rain which soon fell so heavily that the road was pre- sently flooded, but the storm soon passed over. Ruins of villages extended for a long way close by at the foot of the hills to our right, and frequently old burying- grounds, with long narrow tombstones having Arabic epitaphs. Two and three- eighths miles brought us to the village Aviz, which consists of mud houses and keppehs, or long cylindrical-looking huts, built of branches, matting, and reeds. Proceeding onwards, we presently passed two warm springs, one of which was sulphurous, and the 5th mile brought us to the village Gumbed, consisting of huts as above described. The road, which had hitherto skirted the hills to our right, now led us away from them, the cultivation on this plain giving way to grazing land sprinkled with kiinar bushes. About the 10th mile occurred a small stream, and half a mile further, we passed the eastern extremity of a line of low hills which cross the plain in a direction east and west. At 11| miles we passed through low hills extending from the eastward, and entered another plain belonging to the district Kiih Marreh, and extending east and west. The village Khaniek, with its vast and probably artificial mound, bore at the 13th mile, 50° about 1 mile distant. The 18th mile brought us to the village Nujain, which has also a large mound, and palm-trees under which we breakfasted. Near the low hills we had just before passed through, I was told there are three vil- lages, named Hassanabad, Veissabad, and Eanat-e-Bagh. The plain we were traversing abounds with turf, and is little cultivated ; its surface is sprinkled with the thorny kunar bush. It extends south-east to north-west, and is about 2£ miles wide, and is well watered by small brooks. Descending through a valley for a couple of miles, we entered the plain of Jirreh, where the land is cultivated between the kunar bushes, which also abound here. The road led near hills on our right, and brought us, at the end of the 25th mile, to the village Ishforkan. The distance is reckoned at 7 fursacks. * Distances and bearings. 5 mile ... ... 325° 1 m ile ... ... 345° i ... 360 1 ... ... 330 1 ... 325 11 , ... 325 i ... 315 to village Aviz. ... 315 * ... N. 1 , ... 345 i ... 330 to warm spring. i , ... 320° i .. - ... 330 i , ... it. to Nujain. i „ ... ... 310 to a second warm spring. i > ... 60 \ „ ... ... 336° i , ... 20 i ... K. i ... K. i „ ... ... 340 to village Gumbed. * ... 40 i ... 346 } , ... N. J „ - 1 1 „ - 8 ... 316 leading away from hills. ... 320° 4 , ilain. do ... ... w. by ascent »ver hills in corner of ... 330 ... 340 i , ... n. w; descend through vallev. ... 335° J i „ ... ... 865 i , ... 330. i ... 336 ... w. w. i „ .- U „ ... ... 360 ... 10 to small stream. 4 '. ... 316 entor the plain of Jirreh. ... 335° 1 10 pass eastern extremity of low hills, which cross the plain e. and w. 1* ... 320 more hills on right, ... w. 1 mile ... ... 10° i ... 330 8 ,. ... 340 presently by slight descent, and i , ... 825 then through low hills extending from eastward i , ... H". and enrei another plain belonging to district of 8 • ... 360 Kuh Murreh. i , ... 340 1 mile ... ... 345° i , ... H. X ... N. ... 20 from hence the village Khanek i , ... n. e. to Ishforkan. bore 60°, 1 mile distant. 249 m iles. 668 FARAll TO KIRMAW. 11. KaziriJn— 37J miles — 275J miles. Prom Ishforkan* we proceeded about a mile to the village of Hussanabad, skirting the hills. "When at the third mile to the broad bed of a shallow stream, known as Eud Khaneh Shirin, presently our path was lost in rioo-grounds, which obliged us to make a short detour to the ruined village Ballah Deh, outside which the in- habitants were living under keppehs. A low line of hills separates the plain into two longitudinally towards its north-western extremity, leaving on one side a vale of some width. The 15th mile led to the village Eobat, a collection of huts and hovels, near which are two neatly-built stone forts. Continuing up the vale, we ascended, at the 24th mile, over hills for 2 miles, when we came in sight of the Lake of Famour, a long narrow sheet of fresh water, stretching north-west and south-east ; its south-eastern extremity was not visible on account of intervening rocks, but it extends to 90° from this point, and there is situated the village Famour. "We made a trifling descent, and thence to the margin of the water, then for a mile and a half parallel with it, on a bearing of 310° ; the water then trends to 330° for half a mile, when it terminates in marsh extending about half a mile to the N. W. At 33j miles we passed the village Kurmir Keshi, situated a mile to our right, and 2^ miles further brought us to the garden Bugh-e-Nii. At the 36th mile we passed the ruins of a fort called Kalah Jinan, touching on the road, and arrived at the town of Kazerun at the end of 37J miles ; the distance is accounted 8 fursacks. — (K. Abbott.) No. 38. FAEAH to KIEMAN. 23 stages — 411 miles. As fab as Biejan — 6 stages — 149 miles, vide No. 39. 7. Eakat — 14 miles — 163 miles. "Walled village, 100 houses, Persians. * Distances and bearings. imile 45° J mile ... ... 325- 1 N. W. A a ... 300 ■ 2 | » ... 315 ," ... ... 315 to Hassenabad. * i i „ ... ... 300 ... 320 ... 310 ... 335 over hills. ... n. e. still ascending. ... if. came in sight or Lake of Famour. ... 320° by descent. ... 305 ... 310 ... 330 to the lake. i i i ■ 295 skirting hills. , 300 „ 315 „ 3) „ ... ... 305 , 315 to broad bed of Rudkhaneh Shirin i i IS i ,. ... . flowing from Kuh Marrah. ■ mile 270° „ 260 to BallaDeh. „ 320 295 ,, 315 \ ' 300 , 280 ,, 320 ' 310 „ 320 » '" : - H I i i i I A it •" it '•• ... 310 parallel with lake. ... 330 ... 336 ... 350 ... 330 ... 310 ... 320 ... 310 i , H. W. r „ 320 ' 295 „ 316 ,. 320 I „ 315 325 i 4 :;' 'ii ... 315 ... 310 pass the village Kfitnur Keshi 1 mile to our right. 1 1 6 i mile ... 2 „ ... tj » - ... 310° ... 315 to Garden Bagh N\i. ... 320° ■ IT. i „ ... ... 330 , 310° i ... 325 „ IT. i n ... 340 „ 325 to Eobat. i I) ... 325 immediately afterwards pass rains . ... B". W. of fort Kalah Jinan. , 290 | mile ... ... 330° „ 300 * „ ■•• ... 315 280 | „ ... 335 310 i „ ... ... 310 to Kazerun. 2 315 to 330 — 1 „ 316 37$ miles. 1 I , 300 669 FARAII TO NISHAPUR. 8. Zaeabad — 14 miles— 177 miles. Walled village, 25 houses, Persians. 9. Majan — 14 miles — 191 miles. Walled village, 400 houses, Persians. 10. Sak-i-chah — 14 miles — 205 miles. Walled village, 100 houses, Persians. 11. Atashkhuda— 18 miles — 223 miles. A spring of fresh water, no houses. 12. Koh-Bakhtan— 18 miles— 241 miles. A spring of brackish water, no houses, town of Neh-bandon, 25 miles from this eastward. 13. Haoz— 11 miles— 252 miles. A dried well, no house. 14. GrtfD Niamak — 18 miles— 270 miles. A dried well, no house. 15. Kose6d — 14 miles — 284 miles. A dried well, no house. 16. Gujae — 14 miles — 298 miles. A dried well no house. 17. Bagh Asad — 18 miles — 316 miles. A small stream of bitter water, no house. 18. DaiJd Eouak— 11 miles— 330 miles. Ruins, no water, no house. 19. Chashma Deheief — 21 miles — 351 miles. Walled village, 50 houses, Persians. 20. Khi^bbes — 14 miles — 365 miles. Walled town, 800 houses ; water supplies, forage, transport, procurable. 21. Pae Kotal — 14 miles — 379 miles. A walled village, 100 houses, Persians. 22. Dabakht, Angub — 18 miles — 397 miles. Walled village, 500 houses, Persians. 23. Kieman — 14 miles— 411 miles. — {Ferrier). No. 39. FARAH to NISHAPU'R. 23 stages, 380 miles. 1. Kala Khan — 35 miles. Walled villages, 400 houses, inhabited by Persians. 2. Daeu — 49 miles — 84 miles. Walled village, 300 houses, Arabs. 3. Shahebisha — 42 miles — 106 miles. Walled village, 400 houses, Persians. 4. Mud — 18 miles — 124 miles. Open village, 400 houses, Persians. 5- Buj — 18 miles — 142 miles. Walled village, 300 houses, Persians. 6. Biejan — 7 miles — 149 miles. Walled town, 1,000 houses, Arab and Persians ; 1,000 houses outside. 7. Shahaz — 32 miles — 181 miles. Walled village, 60 houses, 100 tents, Arabs. 8. Mahamadabad — 18 miles — 199 miles. Walled village, 100 houses, 200 tents, Arabs. 9. Dostabad— 7 miles — 206 miles. Open village, 100 houses, Persians. 10. Saeayun — 14 miles— 220 miles. Walled town, 2,000 houses, water very abundant, supplies procurable. 11. Atask — 7 miles — 227 miles. Walled town, 500 houses, Persians. 12. Tun— 12 miles— 239 miles. Walled town, 3,500 houses, Persians. 670 FAEAH TO SEMNUN. 13. B6e6— 7 miles— 246 miles. Walled village, 150 houses, Persians. 14. Sae-e-deh — 11 miles — 257 miles. Walled village, 300 houses, Persians. 15. Bejtstan — 7 miles — 264 miles. Walled town, 700 houses inside, 300 houses outside, Persians. 16. Sabdagh — 14 miles — 278 miles. Walled village, 100 houses, Persians. In a salt plain. 17. Sahadedi — 18 miles — 296 miles. Walled village, 100 houses, Persians. 18. Kadagan — 11 miles — 307 miles. Walled village, 1,050 houses, Persians. 19. Kaludan — 14 miles — 321 miles. Walled village, 300 houses, Persians. 20. Kala-i-Maidan— 11 miles— 332 miles. Walled village, 70 houses, Persians. 21. Sangtjd — 14 miles — 346 miles. Walled village, 100 houses, Persians, 200 houses, Bilochees. 22. Pabaz— 18 miles— 364 miles. 400 houses, Persians. 23. NishAttje. Walled town. — (JFerrier.) No. 40. PiKAH to SEMNUN. 29 stages, 569 miles. For the first 6 stages, 149 miles, vide No. 39. 7. Shah-zilla — 14 miles — 163 miles. Walled village, 100 houses, Arabs. 8. Shanel — 14 miles — 177 miles. Walled village, 100 houses, Persians. 9. Haoz Junbek — 18 miles — 195 miles. An encampment. 10. KhiJe— 18 miles— 213 miles. Walled village, 400 houses, Persians.. 11. Mikh-Kh6e— 7 miles— 220 miles. A spring of water, no houses. 12. Talk-ab— 18 miles— 238 miles. A spring of water, no houses. 13. Haoz Fieoz — 14 miles — 252 miles. A spring of water, no houses. 14. Haoz Mahamad Kasam — 28 miles — 280 miles. A spring of water, no houses. 15. Taeistan — 7 miles — 287 miles. Walled village, 100 houses, Persians. 16. Joeez — 14 miles— 301 miles. Walled village, 200 houses, Persians ; boundary of Kh6rassan. 17. Tabas — 7 miles — 308 miles. Walled town, 5,000 houses, Arabs and Persians ; supplies, forage, water, and transport camels abundant. 18. Shaedeh — 14 miles — 322 miles. Walled village, 100 houses, Persians. 19. Kalmobeh — 28 miles — 350 miles. A spring of brackish water, no houses. 20. Kaebas-ab — 28 miles — 378 miles. A spring of brackish water, no houses. 21. Gaed-ab — 21 miles— 399 miles. A spring of brackish water, no houses. 671 FIUOZAEAD TO BUSHAHlt. 22. Chasma-aziz— 28 miles— 427 miles. A spring of brackish water, no houses. 23. Majaeed— 28 miles — 155 miles. A spring of brackish water, no houses. 2d. Chasma-i-Koh— 21 miles— 476 miles. A spring of brackish water, no houses. 25. Eeza — 21 miles— 497 miles. Open village, 100 houses, Persians. 26. Jehettd — 18 miles— 515 miles. Walled village, 500 houses, Persians. 27. Husen Nun — 18 miles— 533 miles. Walled village, 400 houses, Persians. 28. Ab-gah— 18 miles— 551 miles. A spring of fresh water, no houses. 29. Semmtjn— 18 miles — 569 miles. A town. — (Ferrier.) No. 4-1. FAKAH to TABAS. F. Kaiah-i-Koh . 12 Camp in Ravine . . . 4 Daetj . 18 through Desert of Despair. Shahebisha . 10 Deh N6d . 5 Bib jan . 5 Khue . 8 Faxkhan . 12 Dehuk 7 ISFAK 8 Tabas .. 9- — (Kmneir.) No. 42. FIROZABAD to BUSHAHR via AHRAM. 146 miles, 36 hours, 5 stages. Aheam— 23 miles, 17 hours, south-west. Road for two first, and three last, miles, level and good, intermediate bad, commence- ment of descent execrable and impracticable. As far as Kullemeh, the same as Route No. Proceed over level ground for two miles, where cross a river, and enter defile which, at 6f miles, contracts very much until 9j miles. At 11§ miles, is a very narrow part, with precipitous rocks on both sides. It is called " Kendelik". A handful of men could hold this part against an army. About one mile farther on, is a very steep ascent and descent. At 13| miles the torrent turns away to left, but presently another falls in and continues running alongside. At Ik miles, cross river from left. At 18J miles, a canal, and, half a mile beyond, the mill, which it turns. At 20 miles, emerge from the pass, and 23 miles reach Ahram, nearly all the way, through this defile, the rocks are precipitous on both sides, and they do not present any part practicable for crowning. Encamp anywhere round the village. Water runs down all the way ; at first good, but it becomes bitter as it continues its course. At Ahram, it is scarcely drinkable ; and is found on eastern side of town. Supplies abundant. BusnAHE — 32 miles — 55 miles, 8 hours — 15 hours, south-west by west. Excellent road all tho way, level ; soil, alluvial, with salt in parts. Direction, south-west by west. The road is perfectly level and practicable for all arms except after heavy rains, which, howover, rarely falls. At 2 miles, cross brackish river and continue 672 hart/nabad to gahwara. parallel to it. At 7 miles village of Kowur Koleki on left, and at 8 miles, village of Baghesh. At 12 miles, dry sandy bed of river with steep banks, narrow and much broken. At 13^ miles, descend into another dry bed of river, and continue along it for a mile, where emerge between steep banks and numerous ravines. At 15 miles, village of Gorek (or Meer Abdoollah) where is good water ; hence to Biishahr, all • -i.w Salt ' witJl occasionall y a dat e grove on either side. The fort of Bushahr is visible for many miles, and the country is so level that the road cannot be mistaken. On the march, no water fit to drink, except at Meer Abdoollah (15 miles) and at the Banmee well, five miles from Bushire. Supplies abundant— (Taylor.) No. 43, HAMADAN to SULTANIA. 1. Mahajeban. The road lies through a highly cultivated and thickly populated country. At 2 miles cross a considerable stream, which is again met at this stage. 2. Kaput Rahano. This village is in a rich district ; fuel very scarce. 3. Kaiah Jogh. The road traverses a flat country. 4. Gav.-Sawab. The road lies through a well cultivated country. Any amount of supplies procurable. 5. Chibtxk Oohj. 6. Jaheik. 7. Sultania. — (Morier.) No. 44. HAMADAN to TEHRAN. 10 stages, 178 miles. For the first six stages, 90 miles, vide route No. 10. 7. Khushyek — 18 miles — 108 miles— 4j hours. The road is the same as No. 10 as far as the 10th mile from Shamiran, whence it diverges. This village has 150 inhabitants. 8. Khanabad — 21 miles — 129 miles — 5 hours. The road goes over a plain. There are a few villages in the vicinity. The water here is very brackish. 9. Rabat-i-Kabim — 28 miles — 157 miles — 74 hours. The road goes through an extensive plain, with hills here and there. This village has 900 houses and a caravanserai. Water is procured of excellent quality from the river Kerech. 10. Tehran — 21 miles— 178 miles— 5 hours. The road goes over a plain intersected by numerous water-courses. — (Ferrier.) No. 45. HARITNABAD to GAHWABA, vide ROUTE No. 10. 5g hov/rs, north-west and north. The road follows that to Kerrind for 15 minutes ; it then leaves it to the left and ascends north-west, becoming very winding and stony over a high range, to the village of Bireyeh Kasun in 4 hours. It then descends to the Zemkan river in 30 seconds and follows its left bank to Gahwara in f hour more. 673 4 N HEE^T TO TEHRAN. No. 46. HERAT to TEHRAN via KHAP. 1. Kazati-i-Kashi,— 7| miles, 2J hours. Road level and excellent all the way. Soil, gravel. Pass out of the Khootub Chagh gate ; at 1 mile is the principal entrance of the Masellah ; at 2 miles a reservoir on right, and two domes and a canal, also on right. A ruined ziarut (place of pilgrimage with fir trees off left. Here turn suddenly to left. At 3j miles, cross dry bed of torrent a quarter of a mile broad ; at 5 miles, small mud fort on left ; at 6J miles cross line of kanats, and close by is a reservoir of burnt brick, with fresh water on left. Direction west by north. "Water good and plentiful. Supplies none. 2. Zindehjan — 20 miles, 6 hours — 27J miles, 8| hours. Road level and good ; mostly gravel, occasionally alluvial. At | mile, ruined mud tower on left ; several lines of kanats parallel to road on right. At If miles, mud ruins on left, and line of kanats, which cross the roads. At 2f miles, mud ruins on left, and line of kanat. At 6f miles mud ruins on left, graves and mounds on right ; at 7 miles ruined brick reservoir on left, and remains of a large brick building on right. A spur of the Ghorian range abuts into the valley to about 5 miles on left side. A line of kanats (dry) runs up to a tower, apparently 8 miles distant, on left. At 9 miles the Ghorian road turns to the left, the straight one leading to Shekewan. At 12 miles, two parallel canals and gradual descent into river's bed. At 13 miles cross river j mile broad and 4 feet deep. Seekewan lies 3 miles off right ; at 14 miles ruined serai off right. Direction 9 miles west, then west by south. Water abundant and good. Supplies procurable. 3. Ghobian — 13 miles — 40| miles. Road all good, first and last part alluvial, centre gravelly. Leave village and continue between garden walls. At J mile, domed Imamzadeh and burial-ground, on left ; at f mile, large mass of mud ruins on left. Here road inclines south for 1 mile between garden walls and sand drifts. At If mile cross canal and enter a vast gravelly plain ; at 6 miles grove of willows off right, and at lOf miles, mud ice-house on right. On approaching suburbs are the ruins of very extensive gardens and buildings on right. General direction west by south. Water plentiful and good. Supplies abundant. 4. HoTTZ-i-StrNG-i-DooKHTEE — 22 miles, west by north — 62J miles. Road good. Soil at first alluvial, then gravelly. Pass out of the suburbs of Ghorian, with walled gardens off right, which terminate at 5 a mile from the town ; there is a. place of pilgrimage among trees off right. Thence level alluvial plain, a few mounds off left. At 8 miles, slightly undulating with gentle ascent among low hills ; at 12 miles, a high conical mound on right ; at 13 miles wind through a rocky defile, and at 14 miles descend into fine level valley. At 16 miles remains of brick-fort on right, and ruined reservoir (empty) on left. Thence gradual ascent to " Houz-i-Sungi Dokhter," where is a brick reservoir of good rain water. Pine plain for encamping, Large quantities of furze for firewoood. Direction west by north. Water good and plentiful, but probably dry in summer. No supplies. 5. Camp near Keeat — 31 miles, west — 93j miles. Road tolerable, chiefly gravelly and sandy, but alluvial in parts. Continue gentle ascent towards the point of a spur from the Sung-i-Dookhter ; thence gently undulating descent into large plain ; some low mounds off left. At 3 miles cross several deep ravines ; at 8 miles, a dry bed of river. About 1 mile off the right is a spring of brack- ish water called Shoorab ; at 10 miles are the remains of a small mud fort on right with other similar ruins on both sides in the plain, also lines of kanats now choked up ; one of these is crossed at 18 miles ; at 21 miles, empty stone reservior on left ; at 23 miles is a deep nullah, several smaller ones for the next 2 miles. At 25 miles broad dry bed, with ruined fort of Furrezneh, 3 miles off left, under the mountains. At 27| miles, deep dry bed of Karat torrent. An old brick tower off right ; remains of village beyond ; at 29 miles ruins of a stone serai and empty reservoir on left, undulating and rocky. Cross dry bed of torrent with pools of water. At 31 miles encamp on hill sides near stream, which is probably dry in summer (when the traveller must go 3 miles further). Plenty of firewood. Direction west. Water clear in parts only, plenty in winter, but probably becomes dry in summer. Supplies none. 674 HEIiiT TO TEHRAN. 6. Khaf — 24 miles~117i miles. Road bad in the defile, rest good. Soil generally gravelly. Cross the bed of stream, continue along defile. At £ mile, again cross the stream, a line of kanats here. Up to 5 miles cross the stream several times ; at 5 miles is a watch tower on a high mound on left ; at 7 miles, road contracts, and is difficult for \ mile. On summit of defile small reservoir of water on left ; at 8f miles, cross dry bed of nullah. At 10th mile rocky ridge succeeded by dry nullah ; next |mile, winding (great quantities of iron stone). At 10J miles defile opens, and the town and valley of Khaf come into view. At 1L| miles, emerge into plain, and descend gradually to Khaf. At 14 miles, dry broad nullah. At 14J miles, stream of water, clear, rapid, and good, from right. At 20th mile, ruined stone reservoir on left (empty). At 22nd miles, large village with firs off left. At 23rd mile garden walls on left ; pass between fir plantations to fine new brick reservoir on right ; go between two ice pits, a long fine walled road, through broad bazar. No villages or cultivation on the road. Encamp outside the plantations. Direction west to top of last defile ; thence west by south. Water plentiful and good. Supplies abundant. 7. Nuseebabad— 24 miles— 141 miles. Road level and good, soil alluvial. Exit from north gate of city, and continue over alluvial plain ; extensive walled gardens off left, for If miles. AV2j miles, fort, under high rock off left. At 3rd mile, cross stream and deep canal. A little farther, a fort and ruins off left. At 4th mile, ruined fort and Ziarut with trees on left. At 4J- miles, broad water-course. At 8tb mile, a reservoir of rain-water on right, and at 10th mile, another on sam eside. Hence, to Salameh, numerous castellated enclosures off both sides. From 11th to 12^ miles, several streams and water- courses, all from the right. At 14th mile, village of Salameh on left, with fine arch in ruins. At 14j miles, a dome on left. At 16th mile, dry broad bed of torrent with walled enclosure off left. At 17f miles, a stream. At 17f miles, a reservoir on left. At 18j miles, broad dry bed. At 19th mile, cross deep and rapid river. At 21st mile, village of Ferookhabad off left. Encamp outside of village near kanat- Nuseerabad is a strongly fortified little place with double ditch and citadel. Direction north-west. Water plentiful and good. Supplies abundant. 8. St/ngan — 27 miles — 168 miles. Road level and good, soil alluvial and gravelly. At 1st mile, the village of Chum- munabad on left, with reservoir on right ; hence, within 4 miles, cross two water-courses. At 5th mile, village of Mehdeeabad on left. Near this, a line of kanats crosses the road, and runs parallel to the town of Rushkar. At 6th mile, two more watercourses. At 7th mile the village of Jaleelabad on right, and ruins on left. At 8th mile, water-course, and three trees on right. At 9th mile, water course; village and gardens of Molhuk off left. At 12th mile, village of Hoosseinabad on right. At 13th mile, streams and extensive gardens along left ; pass through mud ruins to Ishkar, and at 14th mile is the town of Rushkar, on high ground, and well fortified, on the right of road (this is the usual stage). At 16th mile, village of Affsabad off left. At 17| miles, a stream. At 18th mile, a reser- voir of rain-water on right. At 18ij miles, cross kanats, and village of Roodkhur lies off left. At 19£ miles is Jafferabad off left. Gentle ascent across kanat, and pass entrenchment (road to Abbasabad branches off to the left front). At 23rd mile, cross stream. Descend gradually till 26th mile, whence rise to plateau, under rocky hills on right, where Sungan is built; Kanats and ruins. Encamp out- side, near the stream. Direction north-west. Water abundant and good. Supplies plentiful. 9. Zr/BMEEB— 28 miles — 196 miles. Road good, though undulating ; soil gravelly. Soon after leaving walls, cross deep stream, succeeded by canals with tower on right. At 1st mile, cross deep and rapid river from right ; remains of bridge on left ; then cross stream and pass garden and trees off right. At 5th mile, pass round Mahmoodahad on right ; cross stream, and at 8th mile, Hindabad ; on left, undulating ascent to about 12th mile, where is a reservoir of rain-water on left. Gradual descent to 13th mile ; Kulla-i-Nu. off right. At 14th mile, Jafferabad and Hoosseinabad off right ; cross several streams ; gradual ascent over undulating country. At 16th mile, cross stream and pass rain-water 675 HBRlT TO TEHKiN. reservoir on left. At 17th mile small village with large tree off right. Presently, road from Toorhut-i-Hyderee joins right at 21st mile, steep descent into bed of broad river with high banks, 30 feet wide and .3 feet deep ; cross several streams. Encamp outside the village on banks of a small stream. Direction north-west by west. Water good and plentiful. Supplies scarce. 10. Toobsheez— 25 miles — 221 miles. Eoad good, but slightly undulating in parts ; Soil gravelly and alluvial. Continue gentle ascent. At 2nd mile, cross deep, rapid torrent from right. At 5th mile, cross stream, and pass village of Aliabad on left. At 5J miles, cross deep and rapid river, with steep precipitous banks of slatey rock, from right, 20 feet wide and 3 feet deep ; gentle undulations ; several dry nullahs. At 9j miles, a reservoir of rain-water on left, and fortified town of Azknnd 1 mile to right. At 11^ miles, reservoir on left. At 12th mile, reservoir on right ; here Toorbut road falls in right. At 15th mile, cross broad river from right, and lines of kanats. At I65 miles, a reservoir on left. At 19th mile, road turns off to right front outside the city. We went straight to the town, passing a stream at 20th mile, and the village of Mowla at 22nd mile. Good encampment on west side, near kanat. General direction west north-west. Water good and plentiful. Supplies procurable. 11. Khaleelabad — 10 miles — 231 miles. Road level and good, barring inundated portions ; soil alluvial, with occasional gravel. Proceed along alluvial plain, much cut up by water-courses. Kanats cross the road. At f mile, mud town on left. At 2nd mile, reservoir on right, and village of " Dust-i-Shanao" on left. At 2J miles, ruins on left, and village on right, and a little further, a reservoir on left, cypress and poplars among ruins and gardens on right. At 4J mile, a small tank on right. At 5th mile, cross a stream. At 9| miles, several lines of kanats, and the village of " Deh-i-Noo" on left. Here is a deep stream difficult for camels. North encamp side of village, near a stream and fort. Direction north-west. Water first rate and abundant. Supplies procurable. 12. Anabet — 24 miles — 255 miles. Road level and good, soil gravelly, sometimes alluvial. Soon after starting, pass through Sirmuzdeh and Nusrabad. At 1st mile, emerge into alluvial plain. At 3rd mile, is the village of Arghoon, off left. At 4J miles, a mill, and stream on left. At 6th mile, cross stream, a large tree off right. A mound and village of Kundoor off left. A little further, cross the Shisteraj, deep and rapid, from right. At 6f miles, a stream and ruined mill. At 10th mile, village of Jabez off left. At 11th mile, a line of kanats. At II5 miles, the village of Shuffeeabad on left, and presently a small fort. At 14th mile, through mud ruins ; cross stream. At 14| mile, ruined fort on left ; more ruins and village of Kudookund on right. At I63 mile, through the village of Budruskund, with fort beyond, on left. At 17| miles, through the village of Ibraheemabad, and at 18| miles pass on left village of Baboolhukm. At 22J miles, cross stream, and village of Moojufferabad is on left; cross dry nullah. Encamp north-west of village, near stream. Direction north-west. Water good and plentiful. Supplies scanty. 13. Cheshmeh-i-Shah Htjsstw — 26 miles— 281 miles. Road very undulating, but good ; soil rocky and gravelly. Cross a stream, and at f mile a road leads to right into hills, keep to left, small fort off right ; cross a stream of brackish water. At 2 miles ascend through defile, first steep, then un- dulating. At 3j miles cross a very deep ravine. At 6th mile, remains of reservoir on left. At 8th mile, gradual ascent, small fort on left. Cross a ridge, then descend into bed of small river (brackish). At 9th mile, a pool on left, cross stream of warm mineral water from right; cross dry bed of river and gradually ascend. At 12J miles, village of Haoseinabad on the right, with stream of brackish water ; a mud tower on right. At 18th mile, ruins of fort off left. At 21st mile a low rocky ridge, and brackish springs on right ; mounds on both sides. At 23J miles a ridge and salt spring of Jehan-ool-Moolk on left, cross broad dry nullah and undulating ascents to 25th mile, whence descend to dry bed of torrent ; about i mile off road is a spring scarcely drinkable. Plenty of firewood. Direction north-west. No village ; encamped here for the sake of water. Water very scarce and bad. Supplies none. 676 HERAT TO TEHRAN. 14. TXoeun— 31 miles— 312 miles. Road generally good, undulating; soil gravelly, occasionally alluvial. Follow the torrent bed to the road, descend gradually for four miles to another torrent bed. At 85 miles a small tank off right ; cross broad dry bed of nullah ; rocks on north ; hence undulating plain of sand. At 15th mile, range of hills with copper ore. About i mile off left, a brackish spring (Kullund Chah). At 16th mile enter defile ; ascent gradual and winding. At 17th mile, highest ridge ; at 17f miles last ridge, then gradual descent into plain. At 21st mile, tower on hills, 1 mile off right At 23J miles, rocks abut on left. Here a line of kanats from left crosses the road and runs parallel on the right for a mile. At this place, called " Poosht-i-Asman," is good encamping ground and plenty of water. At 24f miles is a mud tower on right, a gently undulating plain to 27th mile, where cross dry bed of nullah, deep and precipitous banks, ascend to plateau, on which the village and fort of Taorun is situated. Encamp on west side near spring, which is quite warm at its source, clear and well flavoured. Direction north-west. Water good and plentiful. Sup- plies very scarce. 15. Cha-i-Zooghdeh — 24 miles — 336 miles. Road undulating for first 14 miles, then level. At f of a mile cross dry bed of torrent and at 1J mile, cross small stream with village on right and low rocky ridge. At 2nd mile, dry bed of torrent. At 3J miles is the road to Khanikhodee via. Sungeban. At 4rj miles ascend and cross ridge, descend into level hollow (apparently a lake at times) undulations. At 10th mile, narrow defile. At 10f- miles, small ruined fort off left. At 11th mile spring and pool of fresh water in small hollow, " Chow- Chah ;" steep ascent to 13th mile, descend into little valley, and at 14th mile spring and stream from left. Tower of Heezoomee off left; fine encamping ground here. At 14J miles, small stream and ruined fort off right ; a little further on another ruined fort off left. Prom 15 to 17 miles several dry beds of torrents. At 18th miles ruined fort on right. At 21st miles hills close in on both sides ; defile, reach top at 22nd mile, thence winding descend to 23rd mile (here the direct road goes on saving J mile). For " Chah-Zooghdeh" turn left, and at 24th mile arrive at a small well of doubtful water. Direction north-west. Water enough, but doubtful. Sup- plies nothing except firewood. 16. Khakikhoodee — 31 miles — 367 miles. Road undulating and rugged for 26 miles, rest good ; soil gravel and sand, latter part alluvial. Through undulating sandhills for 8| miles where cross the " Khulmara," (a continuation of the Abreeshem river on the Meshed road) ; banks steep and high, 2 feet of water, very salt. Gentle ascent to 12th mile, move along dry bed of river, emerge therefrom. At 12j miles a reservoir of brackish water on right ; still ascend gradually. At I65 miles cross ridge, and at 17 miles small well of brackish water on right, called " Chah-i-Khooshk." At 18 miles range of low rocky mounds ; gentle undulating plain. Cross a ridge at 23| miles, and pass a well (drinkable at this season) on the left at 24 miles. Thence very rugged and undu- lating over slabs of sandstone rock. Gradual ascent through defile, top of which is at the 26th mile. At 26j miles pass between two high rocks of this range, and commence descent into plain of Bearjmund. At 28 miles village of Yezduu off left ; cross streams, and descend gently. Encamp west side. Direction north- west. Water good and plentiful. Supplies procurable. 17. Beabjmttnd — 8| miles — 375J miles. Road level and good ; soil stony, then sandy and gravelly ; near the town alluvial. Pass through ruins of Ziaruts on the western side, and continue over plain, which is a gradual undulating descent. Numerous dry torrent beds intersect at 1 mile ; a reservoir on left. At 2 miles a mud tower of refuge off left. Several villages off both sides. At 7| miles cultivation and a stream from right ; enter a lane between garden walls, and pass cistern on left ; cross a stream and enter upon a passage between high-walled gardens. Pass through town, and encamp on western side in a plain quarter of a mile from the walls on a stream. Direction north-west by west. Water good and plentiful. Supplies abundant 18. Bagh-i-Gowd— 23 miles— 398| miles. Road for 9 miles gravelly and good ; the next 5 miles rocky and difiBcult ; the rest gravelly, good and level. Proceed in south-west direction, which shortly after change to north-west ; gentle ascent towards pass. At 3| miles a mud tower on the 677 HERAT TO YEZD. right. At 9 miles a defile, ruined village, and fort of Keekee on mound on left. The name of the left hand mountain is " Ooshter Kooh," that on the right " Koh- i-Sookhteh ;" ascent steep to 12th mile, where it is rocky and difficult. A spring of brackish water. At 12| miles reach top. Descent at first steep. At 14j miles plain ; gentle slopes down to encampment near a well of indifferent water off right. On the left is the ruined village of Bagh-i-Growd. Direction north-west by west. Water indifferent both in quantity and quality. Supplies none. 19. Shahbood — 25 miles — 423£ miles. Road good the first 5 and last 10 miles ; intermediate part undulating and difficult. Descend gradually. At 5J miles ascend through defile of chalk and sandstone. At 6 miles the defile opens a brackish spring on the right. At 7 miles defile closes. At 8| miles is the summit of the pass. Descent at first easy, but afterwards steep and difficult from 12 to 12^ miles, where is an open space, and a well on the right, called " Chah-iNahrwan," frozen; it is said to be brackish. Descent is steep to 15th mile, when it opens and Shahrood comes into view. Descend gradually to 23rd mile. At 16 miles cross line of kanats ; a mud tower and well on the left. At 17^ miles mud ruins on right. At 20 miles mud tower of refuge off right. At 23 miles cross salt stream from right by temporary bridge through lane between garden walls, and through the village of Dehsick at 23j miles along lanes lined with trees and watered by streams. At 24 miles emerge into plain, cross several streams, twining mills and over a broad bed of river near suburbs. Encamp in open space south side of town, about 1 mile distant near the serai, on the bank of a stream. Direction north-west. Water in any quantity and excellent. Supplies in profusion. Note. — The rest of the journey was the same as in the route from Tehran to Herat (Taylor — Hardy.) No. 47. HERAT to YEZD. 14 stages, 357 miles. 1. (xHobian — 35 miles. The road goes between gardens for 5 miles, when it opens to cultivated ground which diminishes near the mountains. 2. Kalat— 36 miles — 71 miles. The road leaves the cultivation at 10 miles, and enters on an open tract covered with assafoetida bush ; a, range of hills in front joining the ridge of mountains. At 20 miles a well of good rain-water. There is plenty of water and forage here, and a small tract of cultivation. 3. Khaf — 24 miles — 95 miles, west south-west. The road descends a winding pass between steep hills, but is good. At 10 miles a spring of water. At 11 miles enter an extensive plain between two ranges of mountains. This place is well supplied with water, and has a good tract of cultiva- tion and gardens. 4. Shahbwan — 34 miles — 129 miles. The road crosses a fine plain mostly cultivated ; pass several villages. Water and forage the whole way. 5. Skae — 12 miles — 141 miles. This is a fine village. 6. Tajaead — 16 miles — 157 miles. This is a compact little village among hills. 7. Chbhlsak — 12 miles — 169 miles. The road crosses two or three small hills. 8. KIjnshai — 28 miles— 197 miles. A mountainous ridge on the right running off to the north-west. The road crosses a fine flat, but with no water. At 16 miles pass village of Nasareh. Water brackish. At 24 miles cross road from Mashad to Herat. A good village with plenty of good water. At 5 miles cross over to an old ruined serai on the ed<*e of desert ; plenty of water. Wells 3 miles from hence, also at 7 and 11 miles. Dry well nearly every 3 miles. At 25 miles a well with water. 678 HINDIAN TO SHfRAZ. 9. Chakdeh — 39 miles — 236 miles. At 12 miles water. Move on to the hills, and entering them at 19 miles pass village of Ispak, abounding with supplies grain, fruit, water and forage. Fifteen miles further between the hills, where there is plenty of water on the road, reach Deh Mahomed ; good water, grain and forage. Prom hence the road winds between hills. First 12 miles loose gravel ; here is good water. Descending gradually turn a peak on the left by a good hard over a desert along the base of a ridge of mountains. At 24 miles Chardeh. Tabas 8 miles south-east. This village is well supplied with water, grain and forage. 10. PtJsHT-i-BADAM — 40 miles— 276 miles. At 11 miles pass a watercourse, after which ascending between hills come to Robat ; 10 miles further the hills close on either side all the way ; no cultivation ; water brackish. Next march between hills ; rough road with ravines ; water all the way. At 18 miles bad water at Shiitarun. Descend sand hills, at first over deep sand then over hard flat ; no water, no forage. At 21 miles small tower, and small supply of salt water. At 24 miles Pusht-i-Badam, a large village ; supplies of all kinds abundant. 11. Iliahabad — 14 miles — 290 miles. The range on the right approaching. At 5 miles water. This is a small village, but has water and grain. 12. Rezab— 20 miles— 310 miles. At 10 miles Saghan ; cultivation and supplies of all kinds ; good water. From hence a narrow road winds over two small hills, mountains on right close ; range on left, distant 5 miles. At Rezab grain and forage and bad water. 13. KhaeanI— 20 miles — 330 miles. At 14 miles a river bed, winding between a high range running east and west. At 5 and 14 miles water. Descend by a steep winding road between rocks to Kharani where there is bread, grain, and forage abundant ; water brackish. 14. Yezd— 27 miles— 357 miles. The road lies between rocky hills one mile distant on each side. At 6 miles pass over a plain; at 12 miles a cistern of good water; the mountains on the right run off. At 17 miles road stony. At 20 miles enter a sandy desert ; range on the left runn- ing off across the sandy plain. No. 48. H1NDIAN TO SMRAZ. 1. Camp— 22 miles. Cross some low mountains by a sandy road. 2. Zeitun. 3. Siah Poshan — 12 miles. 4. Daolatabad — 16 miles. Bebahan is close to this. 6. Ghich — 16 miles. Cross the Ghich pass. The road is difficult, but fairly practicable for guns, and, it is said, a little labor could make it perfectly so. 7. Dagt^mbezan. The road goes along a plain. 8. Tang-i-nabek. The road goes along a plain to the defile of Tang-i-narek. 9. Basht. The road is not practicable for guns, which would have to go round by a mountain to the north. 10. KALA-Aii THfE Khan— 20 miles. This is near Sar-i-ab Siah and the mouth of the defile of Tang-i-Thir. 11. TblegiJn biveb. 12. Kala SrJEED. 13. Nubabad — 5 miles. 679 ISPAHAN TO KIRmAnSHA'h 14. Kala. Sadat — 36 miles. The road goes by the valley of Tang-i-Chaktin. Soon after leaving Niirabad, the road crosses that from Shlraz to the Chab country and Khuzistan, and enters the valley of the Talegiin river ; then runs along a very fruitful plain for 10 miles south, and then it enters a valley running west south-west. Leaving this valley some rocky heights, extending about 2 miles, are crossed, and the road then passes between rocky mountains about 4 miles apart, and over a stony plain for 10 miles south ; the road then enters a valley and continues in it for 8 miles along the right bank of the river Shahpiir, which it crosses to the left near the jruins 4 miles beyond, on which it comes on to the main Shiraz and Bushahr rod. No. 49. ISPAHAN TO KASHAN BY NATANZ. 1. Shahbabad — 13| miles. The road for the first 1J mile goes through the town and gardens of Isfahan, and then over a plain. 2. Saedahan — 32 miles — 45J miles. The first part of the road leads over a barren plain. At 4 to 5 miles pass ruined village on right ; at 6th, ruined caravanserai (low hills on both sides, those on right about one mile distant) ; at 14th mile, descend a range of low hills into a valley, then wind along the fort of low hills till fth mile from Sardahan, where it leaves them, the range on the left being 2 or 3 furlongs distant. 3. Natanz — 18 miles — 63| miles. For 4 miles the road leads along small hills, and partly through a small valley ; high mountains on both sides, those on right 5 to 6 miles distant : here pass a caravan- serai and rivulet. Then the road leads over a gradual rise with a range of hills on left about | mile distant, those on right about 8 or 9 miles. At 4th mile further the road goes over a small hill, and then through defiles of low hills until a plain is reached. Thence the road is very good, having a range of mountains on the left, and another on the right. A short distance before the village, cross a rivulet. 4. Hanjan — 12 miles — 75J miles. For two miles the road leads through an uneven stony country with low hills on both sides, then for 4 miles through mountains where there is an easy descent for a mile along a garden. For 3 miles further it crosses an uneven country with ranges on the left and right. It then lies through a ravine for 1 mile, having a stream running through its centre. 6. Khoeamdasht — 1S>5 miles — 95 miles. For seven miles the road goes over stony and uneven ground, with ranges of moun- tains on the left and right for 12 or 13 miles. Then pass a caravanserai and a small stream of water on the right, and immediately after cross a ravine, after which the road leads over a plain for 7 miles, the range of mountains on the left stretching away to north-west and those on right approaching the road. Then for two miles the road leads between small hills over an uneven country, and it then becomes stony for 3 miles ; the mountains on right are about 1J to 2 miles distant, those on left 10 to 12 miles. 6. Kashas'— The road is stony across a level plain. The hills on the right are 10 miles distant, those on the left between 3 and 4 miles. — (Malcolm). No. 50. ISPAHAN TO EIEMANSHAH. 255 miles, 85 hours, 14 stages. 1. CHAH-l-sf AH — 21 miles, 7 hours. The country is open. Water is obtained from springs led through canals. No supplies procurable. 6S0 Isfahan to kirmXnshXh. 2. Deh-hak — 27 miles — 48 miles, 9 hours — 16 hours. The country here is open. Water from springs. Supplies plentiful. 3. Dare — 18 miles — 66 miles, 6 hours — 22 hours. The country is open, with hillocks. Water is obtained from springs. Supplies few, but can be got from the neighbourhood. 4. Galpaigan — 21 miles — 87 miles, 7 hours — 29 hours. The country is open, but hilly. Water is obtained from springs led through canals. Many villages around. Supplies plentiful. 5. Khamieh — 21 miles — 108 miles, 7 hours — 36 hours. The country is open, but hilly. Water is obtained from springs. Supplies in small quantities. 6. Deh-armanI — 12 miles— 120 miles, 4 hours — 40 hours. The country is open, but hilly. Water is obtained from springs. 7. Khobam-abad — 18 miles — 138 miles, 6 hours — 46 hours. The country here is open. Water is obtained from springs and streams in the open desert or valley or in the town. Copious springs. Supplies plentiful. Walled town. Fruit plentiful. 8. Amabat — 12 miles — 160 miles, 4 hours — 50 hours. The country is hilly, but the road is good. Water is obtained from springs. A few supplies. 9. Hisae — 18 miles — 168 miles, 6 hours — 56 hours. The country is open, but rocky. Water is obtained from a small stream. Supplies pro- curable. Hamadan 32 miles from this, over a good road for cannon. 10. Daolatabad — 18 miles — 186 miles, 6 hours — 62 hours. The country is open though the road goes across ridges. Water is obtained from springs and streams. Supplies plentiful. 11. Sbhnah — 21 miles — 207 miles, 7 hours — 69 hours. The country is open, but the road goes over ridges. Water is obtained from springs. Supplies in small quantities procurable. 12. Kangawab — 15 miles — 222 miles, 5 hours— 74 hours. The country is open, but the road goes over ridges. Water is obtained from springs and streams. Supplies in small quantities procurable. 13. Besatun — 15 miles — 237 miles, 5 hours — 79 hours. The road goes over fine and open plains and between rocky ridges. Water is obtained from small streams and numerous springs. A few supplies to be procured. 14. Kiemanshah — 18 miles — 255 miles, 6 hours — 85 hours. The country is open at the base of the Parrow mountains. Water is obtained from springs from the hills. Supplies plentiful, particularly fruits.' — (Jones.) No. 51. ISPAHAN TO KIRMANSHAH. 15 stages, 420 miles. 1. Najafabad — 5 farsakhs. A large village in the middle of a circle of gardens to the circumference of 6 or 7 miles. The road which was excellent the whole way lay due west from Isfahan, passing through Graladii and some other villages to the right and left, and the country finely cultivated. The water which is used here for the purpose of fertilizing the grounds and orchards, is a wakf or religious donation, conducted from the distance of 9 farsakhs, being solely appropriated to the convenience of the inhabitants of Najafabad. No peasant living in the intermediate tract of country- between that place and the source of the stream, is allowed to a single drop of it into his f rounds or fields, be the necessity what it may. sht — 8 farsakhs — 13 farsakhs. Marched at \ past 2 a. m., passing over a finely cultivated country for the first 24 miles to a place called Barpusht, situated in low ground with a mud fort near it, on the top of a small rocky hill on the left of the road, which was good the whole way to Imamzada ; saw a number of villages scattered over the plain, which is watered by numerous rivulets issuing from the hills on each side. Imamzada, 681 4o ISFAHAN to kirmanshah. a poor miserable village, containing about 60 inhabitants, living in little vaulted rooms of a decayed caravanserai, while their cattle occupy the space in the centre of it. The high road at this place divides the one to the left, which leads through Khonsar, distant about 16 'farsakhs from hence and 4 from Gilpakan, at which place it again unites. 3. Dehek — 5 farsakhs — 18 farsakhs. Marched at 20 minutes before 6 a. m., and found the road excellent the whole way to this place. In this march passed the villages of Deh Meer, Hullawee, and Hoomee. The cultivation adjacent to these villages is very considerable, as well as the number of gardens that are walled in near them. Thus far the authority of the Ameen-ud- Dowlah extends as subject to the Beglerbeg of Isfahan, and from here we enter upon that which is comprehended in the name of Gilpakan, governed by Abbas Khan. 4. Doobb — 6 farsakhs — 24 farsakhs. Left our caravanserai at 20 minutes before 6 a. m., and passing over a barren, wild country as far as a, caravanserai built by the mother of Shah Abbas Second, 4 farsakhs from Dahek, we halted. From hence a fine view of a beautiful little village called Ashang, 3 miles to the left of the road, after which, mounting again, we rode in a north-west direction to this place, a distance of 2 farsakhs more. Immediately upon leaving Isfahan we saw the tops of the hills still covered with snow, which prospect we continued to carry along with us ever since. Almost the whole way from Isfahan the road appears to run between two ranges of hills, with long villages intermediate, and the towns and villages situated generally at the foot of either range ; the spots of cultivation and fruit gardens near them. 1 have not as yet met with a single caravan of mules, notwithstanding it is the high road between Isfahan and Kirmanshah and Baghdad. Asses are here used, and almost always laden with flour or wheat, going from one village to another. There is, I am told, a road that strikes off from Ashang to Khonsar between the hills. 6. Gilpakan — 6 farsakhs — 30 farsakhs. The road from our last night's resting place to this was good, except here and there rather stony ; passed two villages on the left, whose names the guide was unac- quainted with. The tract of country we passed over to-day was hilly, barren, and had but little appearance of the land being attended to. Gilpakan is the largest town I have seen since leaving Isfahan, situated at the foot of a very high hill, which is perceptible at a very considerable distance, and has a long range of gardens extending 5 or 6 miles to the north-east of it. 6. Khobmabad — 7 farsakhs — 37 farsakhs. The road was excellent the whole way, and lay over a fine, rich country, full of villages and fields of corn, with numerous orchards and fruit-trees and vine. Khormabad is a poor, miserable village. 7. Hisab — 7 farsakhs — 44 farsakhs. Mounted at £ before 5 A. M., and arrived at this place at about 1 p. m. The first part of the road was rather hilly ; it then proceeded in a straight line to Amarut, 2 farsakhs from Khormabad, after which it kept inclining to the left between two villages, approaching the hill on that side, and then pass through a third within a farsakh of this place, the houses of which are built round a sugar-loaf hill rising almost midway in the valley, with gardens and cultivation surrounding it to a great extent. The whole of this large plain, which goes under the general name of Kejjanj, is much better cultivated than any I have passed through in Persia. Villages in it are numerous ; some large prettily situated and abundantly watered by rivulets issuing from the mountains. The town is large and well supplied with every article of provision and convenience but firewood, a great scarcity of which I have found to prevail from Najafabad. 8. B^EtJJiED — 10 farsakhs — 54 farsakhs. Mounted very early this morning, and did not reach this place till past 3pm Imme- diately upon leaving Hisar we struck into the hills on the left for 3 farsakhs, and then ascended a short steep hdl, and after moving a couple miles, began ascending a very high hill, but the road wound excessively before we reached its summit, from where it displayed one of the most charming prospects I ever beheld. We were apparently standing ;on the edge of a large circular and uneven plain, encompassed by a chain of hills, from the top of one of which we were then looking • the whole of 682 ISPAHAN TO KIRmXnSHAII. it seemed to be composed of small rising grounds gradually swelling from the centre to the sides. Villages with gardens and clumps of trees scattered over it in all direc- tions, and the cultivation of wheat and barley carried on even to the summits of the very hills which were covered with a fine verdure of a light green, shaded with darker spots of the springing grain, and enamelled with the daisies and innumerable other flowers. Prom hence, looking across this rich and beautiful spot, the prospect is bounded immediately in front by a huge mountain covered with snow lying beyond the boundaries of the valley, at the foot of which stands Burujird : to the left the eye is again checked by another snow-capped mountain called Shutar Koh, around which the Bakhtiari tribe are settled ; and to the right the famous chain of Alwund mountains, near Hamadan, raise their tremendous hoary heads and close this grand and variegated view of one of the most extensive and beautiful prospects I recollect ever having seen. After ascending the first hill about 3 farsakhs from Hisar, we leave the district of Kejjanj and cross that of Siravund belonging to Burujird. We then moved on to the opposite hills, and from the top of the last one Burujird becomes visible at the distance of about 12 or 14 miles, after which the road winds round a number of small hills, and terminates by leading us into the level and well-cultivated plain below, in which this large and populous city is built. It is a place of some standing and is said to contain 12,000 souls. 9. Deh-Pib — 12 farsakhs, 48 miles — 66 farsakhs, 264 miles. Owing to some trifling delays we were not able to leave Burujird till past 5 A. M., and notwithstanding we made all possible haste, we did not reach Deh-Pir till 10 minutes past 7 in the evening. With a small part excepted the whole of the road was rough, rocky and difficult, which, after the first 18 miles, led us through some rich plains of grass 2 feet high, and here and there strips of cultivation. One valley of very considerable extent, called HHurii, particularly attracted my attention by its beautiful verdant appearance, while the neighbouring hills were covered with stunted oak and box trees ; but in this large and charming tract of country, not a village or house, or house of any description, is there to mark it as . the habitation of man, — all exhibits a green, smiling and wild aspect, but not a cheering sound to be "heard throughout the whole extent of this lovely valley but the bleating of a few sheep grazing on the brows of the adjacent hills. The last three stages have presented by far the richest and most fertile part of Persia I have seen since leaving Biishahr, which is principally inhabited by the Illiats of the Liir tribe, who, from what I can learn, do not move from particular spots to which they are partial to any great distance from them, as numbers of them are engaged in the cultivation of the land besides tending their flocks, which supply the villages near which they frequently erect their black tents with milk, butter, butter-milk, which latter is always brought in as a part of the evening and morning meals, even at the boards of the greatest men who are generally either the heads or principal members of some Meant tribe or other. Deh-Pir, like some others near it, is a poor paltry village, containing about 20 mud houses, which are inhabited in winter for their warmth and deserted in the summer months on account of their heat and the quantities of vermin with which they swarm. Within 3 farsakhs of this wretched place, and nearly at the end of the plain of Hurii, the road strikes off to the left, embracing the foot of a very high hill, which, by what I could learn from the guide and see from its windings as I stood at the top of the hill near Deh-Pir, would have lengthened our day's march by 8 or 10 miles ; we, however, got an Illiat to take us across a dry part of the valley, as some of it was marshy, to a rising ground on the right from whence we descended to this place. 10. Khoeamabad — 3 farsakhs, 12 miles — 69 farsakhs, 276 miles. The road to this place . was rough and stony, and wound much amongst the hills. A small rocky hill rises above it on the top of which is a fort, the walls of which are impregnable to' the efforts of a Persian army, but by a couple of pieces of light European ordnance might be battered down in the course of half an hour. The distance from Khoramabad to Kirmanshah by the winding and uninhabited road which I travelled, is computed at 36 farsakhs, or about 144 miles, and is performed in five easy stages (Total 15 stages — 105 farsakhs — 420 miles). The road presents 683 ISPAHAN TO SHfEAZ. but few obstacles to the march of an army, except just after leaving Khoramabad, -when it winds a good deal amongst the hills lying along the bed of a large stony river. No villages between these two towns but two, one about 7 farsakhs from Kirmanshah and the other 8, but three or four very beautiful plains intervene, produc- ing very fine grass for grazing the cattle of the Illiats. At Hurseen, which is the village within 7 farsakhs, I crossed a large river that has its source at that place, and, within four miles of Kirmanshah passed another with a fine bridge over it. The other road is looked upon as the highway from Burujird, passes through the under-mentioned places, and the country is described as highly cultivated and populous, with towns and villages every 6 or 7 miles, and some of them of a consi- derable size, with large and pleasant gardens abundantly watered, and a fine smooth road. These stages are as follows : — Prom Burujird to Nahwund 10 farsakhs, to Garachea 6, to Saana 6, to Besittoon 4, to Kirmanshah 5 farsakhs. The general appearance of the country lying between Ispahan and Kirmanshah is favorable and pleasing, and exhibits much cultivation for districts that have to produce grain merely for the subsistence of their own inhabitants and carry on an intercourse with the larger towns, for the common implements of husbandry and necessaries of life, which are here but just afforded the peasant of the soil and no more ; misery and want are evidently depicted on the countenances, not only of those who live in the villages, but more so on those of the wandering Illiats who pasture their flocks and herds in the valleys, and subsist on the milk and cheese produced from them. Comfort and convenience are the sole property of the lords of tribes and large estates, the immediate dependants and the officers of Gov- ernment who surround the princes and great men who govern the districts and large towns. The produce of the land in point of grain is very abundant, and bread is considerably cheaper, and particularly in the province of Kirmanshah, than what the same article can be purchased for at Ispahan and to the southward of that city. Were a total defalcation of the expected crops of this year to take place, the rise m the price of bread would be but trifling, and would by no means equal -two-thirds of what is paid for it at Shiraz. Notwithstanding that, this district, during the late two years of scarcity in Fars, exported large quantities to that province ; it still has in its granaries the wheat and barley of the . last two crops in store, which they are unable to dispose of at such a price as to afford a moderate profit after defraying expenses of farming the land. The roads are, generally speaking, excellent, being broad, smooth, and level, seldom pre- senting any serious obstacles or steep passages that so frequently obstruct the way from Biishahr to Shiraz. The climate is fine and healthy, though rather warm during the summer months of June, July, August, and September, after which the air cools and gives notice of the approach of winter, when the cold is intense. The snow which falls during this inclement season remains for great part of the year on the tops of some of the higher mountains even as late as August. The rivers between Khoramabad and Kirmanshah are much the largest I have crossed in Persia, and, though by no means to be compared (in the summer) with the broad and rapid streams of India, they are still of no contemptible breadth and size, affording the first water for the purposes of irrigation. The country is, besides these, well watered by numerous rills and small streams that issue from the mountains with which the whole country is covered in every direction. The greatest part of the population of these districts consists of the Illiat tribe of the Lack Kurds and some Turks. ^ Firewood is an article almost entirely unknown on the march from Ispahan to Burujird ; cow-dung mixed with chopped straw, and baked, is made to answer every purpose that fuel is required for. No. 52. ISFAHAN to SHIRAZ. 13 stages, — miles. Mebb( ck — 10£ miles, 2J hours. Koad good the_ whole way ; the first 8 miles over gravelly soil, then alluvial. General direction south by east. Leave great square of city, and proceed through streets to fine avenue of plane trees, leading to bridge over Zindehrood ; after crossing road diverges; that to right leads to Joolfeh, an Armenian village,' about 684 Isfahan to SHfaXz. 2 miles distant, on right bank of river ; the other goes straight on towards a low range of gravelly mounds on south side of the city. Proceed a long continuation of avenues, and at 1 mile from bridge emerge into a "barren gravelly plain. At 3 miles cross range of high mounds by gradual ascent ; descent long and steep. Off right is a range of lofty, rocky mountains, with a ruined summer palace on the side. At 8 miles, road from Joolfeh comes in from right rear and crosses the range of mounds, about 1 mile to the west of the direct road, by a more rugged and diffi- cult path. Hence, very gentle descent to some mud ruins, in alluvial soil, at 8y miles. A valley stretches away here off right between high mountains. Proceed across a barren alluvial plain, leaving mountains off right. A well of bad water on right, a small caravanserai and reservoir on left. Encamp in plain close by. No villages or cultivation of any kind. At 3 miles, water procurable from bend of Zindehrood. At stage, from a masonry reservoir, plentiful, and tolerably good. Supplies none ; must be procured from Ispahan. 2. MAirAB— 17 miles— 27^ miles. Road level and good for first six miles, then very difficult over face of rock for a quarter of a mile; the rest easy. Soil alluvial at first, then gravelly. Gen- eral direction south, then south by east. Proceed along level, alluvial plain, towards defile in rocky hills off right. At 3 miles enter defile ; at 3f miles road joins from left; hence defile opens into a valley until 6J miles, where is a very steep and rugged ascent, over rocky ridge, by causeway built on mountain's side. After reaching top, gradual descent among hills; pass tower on hill side off left, and at 6^ miles a reservoir on left. Cross dry deep bed of torrent, and at 8 miles pass under high volcanic peaks on left, leaving villages of Tulkhoon and Linjoon off right. At 85 miles, stone ruin on right, and at 11£ miles, ruined post-house on left, with ruined reservoir and caravanserai on right. High, precipitous, rocky range a few miles off either side of the road. At 13 miles, mass of mud ruins on right; a little farther, ruined walls and enclosures off left, and village of " Deh-i-Khooshk" under low ridge off same side (now in ruins). Cross low ridge, and at 16f miles pass gate of town of Maiyar on left. Proceed, passing post-house to the left, and fine caravanserai off right. Encamp in fields close by. On the top of the precipitous rocks, off left, overlooking town, is a portion of an ancient pillar, and conspicuous landmark. Maiyar is a small town, with some cultivation in the valley round it. It has tolerably strong walls, faced with stone, but no ditch. Hills can be crowned by light troops. No water in any quantity on march, but at the stage plen- tiful and good from streams and water-courses. Supplies limited. 3. Koomishah — 185 — 45J miles. Road excellent, over gravelly plain, without cultivation, for first 12 miles, then undulating, passing over low spurs from hills off right. After passing the village of Shah Riza, soil changes to alluvial. General direction south by west. Leave encamping ground near post-house, and proceed south by west. At J mile pass caravanserai of Maiyar on right, and a little fort in the midst of cultivation off same side, then extensive gardens. At one mile cross a small stream and emerge into a sandy desert plain. At 3^ miles mud ruins on left, and at 5f miles a high isolated, conical rock in plain off left. Between this and 65 miles, two rocky mounds off left. At 7f miles pass walled enclosure under high mound off left, and a little further on, small mud guard-house on the same side. At 10| miles ruined village off left, and at 11 J miles, large village of Isbeh, with some trees and cultivation off left. A little further on a small mud tower on right. Here spurs from the rocky moun- tains off right approach the road. Between this and 15J miles pass the small villages of Garmishah and Manoocheherabad in valley off left. At 15s miles, road leading from Isbeh comes in on right rear. At 17£ miles pass through village and gardens of Shah Riza (domed shrine of said saint here on right). Pass burial-ground under high rocks on right, also mud ruins ; and at 17-j miles cross by masonry bridges two deep ravines from hills off right. At 18£ miles arrive at gate of town, and encamp outside the walls in alluvial plain, at eastern corner of town, near a line of kanats. Koomishah is a small, flourishing town of rectangular form, with mud walls all round and gates ; some remains of a ditch. The town defences are of a very flimsy 685 ISFAHAN TO SHfRAZ. nature. The government post-house is inside the walls. Water at one mile from a stream. At 17 miles, the village of Shah Riza. Between 12th and 15th mile, four water-courses off left. At stage from aqueducts and water-courses, plentiful and good. Supplies of all kinds procurable. 4. AmbenXbXd — 26 miles, 5 hours — 71| miles. Road undulating and difficult at first, crossing ravines in alluvial and sandy soil near town ; thence level and good over gravelly plain to Ameenabad. General direction south by east. Leave south gate of town, and proceed across very broken and undulating tract of country, over alluvial soil full of deep ravines. At \ mile cross deep ravine, with aqueduct of good water in it, by bridge, in good repair ; thence proceed across gently undulating gravel- ly plain, with range of high rocky hills off left, and alluvial plain below off right. At 5£ miles mud ruins on right, and Ziarutgah (place of pilgrimage) with trees off same side. At 6| miles pass the two villages of Maroon and Wullundoon; a little farther on, walled enclosures commence on right. At 8J miles village of Kawamabad, with trees and stream on right. Present- ly the enclosures terminate, and the stream turns off to right front. At !3£ miles road turns off to villages of Khashareh and Macksoodbegee (where is a post-house), which is passed at 14^ miles off right. On the left are the ruins of a large mud caravanserai ; hence pass through low, mud ruins, and at 16^ miles cross stream from right, passing a mud guard- house on right. Continue across gravelly desert plain without land marks, a range of high rocky hills being about 12 miles distant off right. At 25f miles go between mud walls and ruins, and encamp on stream beyond, with small brick caravanserai on left and walled village on right. Cultivation on both sides of road. Water at £ mile from aqueducts. At 8J miles, village of Kasoamabad, from stream ; also at 16| miles. At stage from stream and water-courses, plentiful and good. Supplies very scarce. 5. Shoolgestan — 33 miles, 6| hours — 104J miles. Road excellent the whole way, except in the ravine of Tezdikhast, over sandy and gravelly plain. Direction south by east to Tezdikhast ; thence south-east by east. Leave encamping ground near caravanserai, and proceed along sandy plain. At 5 miles pass small guard-house on right. Here direct road to Shool- gestan diverges to left front, that to Tezdikhast leading southwards. At 9 miles, pass three rocky mounds off right. At IO3 miles, an Imamzadeh and burial- ground on left. Thence winding descent into deep ravine about half mile broad ; at 11 miles is the village of Tezdikhast on an isolated rock of conglomerate in bed of ravine. After passing village, road turns off to right, the post-house being on left. Cross by bridge, in good repair, river flowing from right ; at this season (May) shallow and fordable. On right bank is a fine caravan- serai, under high precipitous banks of ravine on that side at 11| miles. Thence steep rocky ascent out of ravine over rocks of sandstone and con- glomerate, the top of which is reached at 12 miles. Here there are three roads ; that to the right leads over rocky hills to Isferjan, that to the left to Tezd ; the centre one over a gently undulating gravelly plain without land mark. A range of high hills lies about 10 miles off right. At 26 miles, direct road from Ameenabad to Shoolgestan comes in on left rear. At 32£ miles pass large caravanserai on left, and post-house a little further on on right. Encamp close to it near a water-course. There is some cultivation near the village, which is surrounded by a high mud wall with strong gates. Water at 11J miles, from river. At stage from water-courses and a reservoir plentiful and good. Supplies very scarce. 6. Abadeh — 21J miles— 125 miles. Road, level and good the whole way, over sandy plain. General direction south- east. At starting pass domed mosque on right and village of Shoolgestan on left. At 1 mile cross stream, flowing down from a small lake with trees off left. At 6J miles high, isolated, rocky hill off right in plain. At 11£ miles cross aline of kanats, communicating with the large village of B&kirabad which lies under rocky hills off right, with trees and gardens. At 16J miles mud ruins on left, and at 18f miles cross stream, leaving walled enclosure on left, and small fort under hills off right. At 19| miles a line of kanats, 686 ISFAHAN TO SHiRAZ. connected with extensive walled gardens off left. At 20| miles, small fort off left, and ruins off right. Thence, passing between enclosures and gardens, reach gate of town at 21^ miles. Encamp in plain near gardens off right. Abadeh is a large walled town. Water on march from streams and aqueducts. At Abadeh, plentiful from numerous water-courses. Supplies of all kinds procurable. 7. Soobmeh— 15J miles — 140 miles — 2|- hours. Road level and good the whole way, rather winding for first ten miles. Soil gravelly. General _ direction south-east. Leave encamping ground, near walled gardens outside of the town, and proceed in south-east direction, across a gravelly plain, with gardens and scattered cultivation. At 1J miles, village of Karimabad off left, with trees. A high range of rocky mountains lies beyond, off same side of road, the whole march. Here a road from Karima- bad leading across, and turning off to, our right front comes in from left. This road leads to the town of Ekleed. At 5^ miles, pass through some mud ruins, and at 10 miles, pass village of Takoobabad on left, and extensive ruins among gardens off right. Pass also village of Ohenar off same side. Cross brackish stream, and at 11£ miles, pass new walled village of Ameerabad off right. Thence undulating road among low gravelly mounds, and at 13J miles, pass remains of ancient fire temple in valley on stream off left, called Kulla-i-Kubood. Pass cultivation along banks of stream off left, and encamp near village of Soormeh, in a gravelly plain off right of road. There is a government post-house, but no caravanserai. No water on march. At Soormeh, from streams, plentiful and good. Supplies scarce. 8. Khankoobeh — 23 miles, 4j hours— 163 miles. Road good, over gravelly soil, by easy undulations. General direction south-east and south south-east. Pass post-house to left, and soon afterwards a gradual ascent over gravelly country. At 4| miles, a rocky mound on right (a good landmark), and at 10 miles, a range of high, detached, rocky bluffs commences on left. At 15£ miles, low rocky mound off right with small village and gardens beyond; thence, short, easy descent into undulating plain; at 16J miles, two mounds on right ; thence road winds over a tract of very undulating country without landmarks. Rocky mountain ranges lie distant off both sides of road. At 23 miles, small stone caravanserai of old construction on left ; cross a small stream in hollow. Pass post-house on left, and ruined guard house on right; encamp in plain close by. No village or peasants. The caravanserai is loopholed, and would make a good defensive post. Water none on the march. At encamping ground, from a spring on right, brackish and limited in quantity. Supplies none. 9. Deh-Beed— 18 miles — 181 miles. Road very indifferent the whole way, steep and rugged in the defile. Soil gravel and sand, with clay in the defile; latterly, sand and alluvium. Direction south-west by south. At starting, undulating ascent over gravelly and sandy country. At 1 mile, road very steep and rugged, leading up a defile in range of rocky mountains ; cross a stream frequently, and at 65 miles, reach top of defile, with snow in patches all round. Thence, long, undulating descent over wild, bleak tract of hilly country, inhabited only by the wandering tribes during the summer months. At 8 miles pass spring of good water off right. Hence there are no landmarks until arrival at the ruined caravanserai of Deh-Beed, with a Government post-house about \ mile off right of road, and a few temporary mud huts of nomades. Encamp near the caravanserai on the banks of a clear stream; scattered cultivation in the neighbourhood, about \ mile from the caravanserai; lower down the stream are the remains of another fire temple, similar to that at Soormeh, but not in such good pre- servation. Water procurable on march from streams and water-courses, at 8th mile from spring. At Deh-Beed, from stream, plentiful and good. Sup- plies none. 10. Meshed-i-Moobghab— 27 miles— 20 miles, 5| hours, 50 minutes. Road undulating and indifferent for first 15 miles, then very rugged and difficult to end of march. Soil at first alluvial, then chalky and gravelly, until arrival at the Poolwar river ; thence, over rocks of limestone and conglomerate. 687 ispahXn to sh{rAz. General direction south south-east. After leaving encamping ground, cross stream, and pass remains of ancient fire temple (a mass of mud and charred wood) off right. At J mile, cross small stream flowing from left, and com- mence gradual ascent over low rocky ridge, summit of which is reached at 3 miles. Thence, long undulating descent over wild and broken tract of country. Pass a white tomb on hillock off left, at 8£ miles (good landmark). At 10 miles, cross astream in deep ravine. At IO3 miles, a road turns off to left front, leading direct to caravanserai of Khona Khergoon, but apparently not much used. At 14 miles, ford the rapid river Poolwar, flowing from right (quite shallow at this season,) and pass ruined caravanserai of Khona Khergoon on high ground off left. Hence rough, undulating ascent towards a defile in range of high rocky mountains. At 15| miles, very rocky and steep ascent up defile commences, winding round the mountain's side till the 17£ miles, when top of defile is reached. Thence gradual descent along ridges of the hills ; cross deep, dry bed of torrent at 18£ miles. Cross a rocky ridge by steep and difficult gradients at 20 miles ; thence long undulating descent over very rugged and difficult country, being a succession of low rocky hills, covered with boulders and scattered jungle. At 22 miles, the direct road to Seewund turns off to right front. At 24 miles, pass fine, clear spring of Bunnow in dell off left, the stream from which repeatedly crosses the road. This tract of hilly country is uninhabited in winter, but during the summer months is occupied by tribes of Bliyats with extensive flocks. At 26 miles, town of Kadirabad in valley off left ; descend into green, grassy plain of Moorghab, watered by numerous streams and water-courses, and covered with encampments of wandering tribes. Pass the small village of Meshed-i-Moorghab on left of road, and Government post-house, a little farther on, on same side ; encamp in grassy plain on the banks of one of the water-courses. About 6 miles from this village are the ruins of Pasargade and the tomb of Cyrus. Water procurable from streams, and at 24 miles from Bunnow spring ; at Meshed-i-Moorghab, from streams and water-courses, plentiful and good. Supplies scarce. 11. Seewund —31 miles — 239 miles. Boad level and good, over alluvial soil, to the pa ss, parts of which are very rugged and difficult, over slippery sheet rock. Thence easy descent, by good road, down valley. The last six miles, rugged and bad, over rocky road. General direction south by west. "Leave encamping ground, and follow a track over grassy plain in westerly direction, crossing several water- courses. At 3J miles direct road to Seewund comes in on right rear. Cross stream at 4J miles, and pass small village of Deh-i-noo, on left, at 5 miles. At 5^ miles, a track turns off to left front, leading to the terrace of Cyrus, and other ruins of Pasargarde, which are visible from this point ; the former on side and top of a low rocky hill, and the latter consisting of the remains of 8 or 9 marble pillars, and facades of buildings, in the plain beyond. The Tukht-i- Jamsheed, or Cyrus' terrace, is about 7 miles from the village of Meshed-i- Moorghab. Pass some low detached mounds on left and emerge into plain of Pasargarde or Moorghab, remains of columns, &c., off left, and at 9 miles pass the massive marble building traditionally affirmed to be the tomb of Cyrus, off left. This plain is a favourite summer encamping ground of the Eliyats. At 10 miles, ford small river, flowing from right, a tributary of the Poolwar, into which it flows at about i mile off left. The two streams combined flow through pass parallel to road, along left side. Enter pass in high rocky mountains, the heights of which cannot be crowned. At 11 miles, road becomes very narrow, and is merely an excavated.passage or tunnel through the solid rock of a spur from mountain on right. At 12£ miles pass opens, descend into small valley, full of pretty trees and under- wood ; continue gradual descent through valley towards a rocky defile in hills which gradually close to both sides of road. The river flows along left the whole way. At 15J miles enter rocky defile, after emerging from which, road inclines to right front, under low hills on that side ; the river continues in a southerly direction. Gradual descent into another valley with considerable cultivation, and several villages off left. At 22 miles pass a small walled village of Koomabad, with gardens and cultivations off left. At 21 miles 688 ISFAHAN TO SHfRAZ. pass Ziarut and burial ground on low wooded mounds on right. At 25 miles, ford river Poolwar, flowing from left. Thence pass under high rocks on left, similar rocks about half mile parallel off right, enclosing a little narrow valley, at the bottom of which the river winds on our right. At 25f miles, pass some very high precipitous rocks on left, and gardens and orchard in valley off right, on river's bank. Hence, road winds round spurs of hills on left, until 27 miles, where it diverges ; that to left leading up to village of Seewund, which is built in a nook high up in the mountain ; that to right passing outside a high, detached, rocky hill, leading direct to Seidoon, a large village, about 7 miles further, where there is a caravanserai and a Government post-house. Take latter road, and encamp in cultivated plain off right, near the river, about 1\ miles fom Seewund, which is a dirty straggling village, built upon rocky slopes of the mountain ; it has a small stone caravanserai, but good water is scarce. Water for first five miles procurable from water-courses ; at 10 miles from river, procurable a short distance from the road; the greater part of the way, from the Poolwar river. None in the plain. Supplies very scanty. 12. Kinareh — 19 miles— 258 miles. Road tolerably good the whole way ; rather cut up by water courses, until rejoin- ing mainroad at 13^ miles. Soil alluvial. Direction west by south to Nuksh-i- Roostum ; thence south south-west. Leave encamping ground near river, and regain road. The direct road leading to Seidoon, and thence by the Nuksh-i-Rujjub to Kinareh turns off to left, and passes along foot of mountains off that side. That to the westward leads to the Nuksh-i- Roostum, or Sassanian bas-reliefs, the tomb of Darrius and other kings. At 4 miles cross the river Poolwar and some deep canals, and pass small village of Dushtassan on right. Thence proceed along alluvial and sandy tract of country, intersected by water-course and lines of kanat, skirting a range of high rocky mountains off right. At about 7 miles sight the village of Seidoon, amid trees and gardens, under mountains, about 2 miles off left. At 9 miles pass ziarut and trees on right, under mountain ; rich cultivation along river's bank off left. At 11 miles, arrive at the sculptured rocks and bas-reliefs of Nuksh-i-Roostum, cut in the face of the high precipitous rock on right. After leaving the Nuksh-i-Roostum, proceed in a southerly direction to regain the high road, which leads to Persepolis and Kinareh. At 13 miles cross the Poolwar and pass a massive stone ruin on left, called the Taoos, or peacock, consisting merely of a low terrace, with a few fragments of marble pillars. Thence proceed towards a range of low rocky hills in left front. Cross by a rude stone bridge a deep canal, and join the mainroad. At 13£ miles pass the sculpture of Nuksh-i-Rujjub, cut in a nook of rock on left. The carving still very perfect; the inscriptions in Greek and Peblevi quite distinct. Proceed along stony road at the foot of a range of low rocky hills on left, and at 14J miles the road, leading to the ruins of Persepolis, turns off to left, following the base of the hills. The direct road to Zerghoon is in a south-westerly direction, passing close to a high marble archway in the plain. At 16| miles reach the _ lofty terrace, covered with ruins, and recognised as Persepolis. Leave this terrace on left, and follow a track, in a westerly direction, among fields and cultivation much intersected with deep water-courses. At 19 miles, reach the village of Kinareh. Encamp off right of village by side of water-course in the midst of cultivation. "Water procurable for first 13 miles from river and canals, at stage, from watercourse, loterably good. No supplies. 13. Zeeghoon — 14| miles — 272^ miles. During summer, the road is, for the most part, good, across an extensive alluvial plain, with cultivation, to the bridge. Thence salt, marshy track to causeway. The rest, level and good, over gravel. "Direction west south- . west for 13| miles, then south-west by west. Leave encamping ground near village, and proceed in a westerly direction to rejoin the direct road from Seidoon to Zerghoon, which is accomplished at 1£ miles ; thence, over well cultivated, alluvial plain, along good high road, to the fine stone bridge over the river " Bundameer." The bridge is called " Pool-i-Khan," and is 689 4p Isfahan to sh{k£z. reached at 7| miles. Stream flows from right. Cross over the bridge, and pass under steep high rooks on right. Road continues across level, alluvial plain, terminating in salt marsh, away to left. ThiB plain is almost impas- sable after heavy rain. At 10J miles is the commencement of an old stone causeway, over which the road passes. The country is marshy on both sides. At llf miles causeway ends, and ground is firmer.. At 13 miles pass stone building and tree on left. Further, traces of the causeway appear on right, seemingly in the direction of the old Shiraz road. The road now winds round a spur of a mountain, from a lofty rocky range, which terminates abruptly here. At 13J miles road bifurcates ; one, in a west-south- west direction, straight to Shiraz ; the other, south-west by west along the foot of the range of rocky hills to the village of Zerghoon. Fine cultivation in the valley off right, watered by a stream, which crosses the road at the point of divergence. At 14j miles pass two ruined brick mosques on left. Leave the Government post-house on left, and encamp close by under the hills. Zerghoon is a small village, dependant on Shiraz for almost everything. From Zargan a road goes to Persepolis, 15 miles. "Water procurable on the march, from the "Bundameer" river, and from a stream at 13 miles; at stage, from wells and streams, plentiful and good. Supplies scarce. 14. Shikaz — 18 miles— 290 miles, 4£ hours. Road very rugged and difficult the whole way, except the valley from 8 to 10 miles, which in May is uncultivated and occupied by encampments of nomads. Road is well defined from the pass to city. General direction, west south-west, then south-west by west. Leave encamping ground near village, and proceed, in a westerly direction, across valley to regain direct road. At 1J miles ford deep stream from left. At 2 miles rejoin main road, and proceed up a defile in a range of chalk and gravel hills ; ascent rough and stony. At 6 miles pass small stone mill in defile on left. Here the hills rise, and are more precipitous on both sides. At 7 miles very steep and rugged ascent over rocky side of hill to the top of pass, which is reached at 7| miles. A track of the old Shiraz road, direct from the causeway, falls in here from the right rear ; a short steep descent into desert valley, or basin, among rocky hills. Pass caravanserai (brick and stone), with a stream of good water on left at 10 miles. Thence very steep ascent out of valley, and reach top of rocky ridge at 10j miles. Steep, undulating descent through defile, with torrent in ravine off left. At 12 miles pass some ruined stone buildings on either side of road, and at 13J miles ruins on left. Descend gradually through defile, and at 14J miles pass a tree and ruins on right ; cross a stream, and at 15| miles mud ruins. Thence short ascent, and pass tower and aqueduct on right. At 16 miles cross stream flowing into deep ravine on left, along the side of which the road now winds, leading to the pass of " Allah-o-Akbur," between high impracticable cliffs. Descend the pass, and at 16| miles pass under high rocks, surmounted with tower, through an archway. Above, on the side of the rocks on right, is a road, leading up to an open space, where guns might be posted. There are no fortifications or defences ; hence the road descends gradually to the city. Pass a clear torrent and some brick ruins on right, known as the stream of Rookhnabad, and the Masellah of Sadee, along an avenue be- tween brick walls enclosing the garden palaces of former kings of Persia. Cross by an old bridge dry bed of river; beyond is the city gate. Good encamping ground on the stony plain, near the streams flowing down to the city from the hills, on north of city ; also within the walls, in the open square of the Topkhana (Artillery). Shiraz is surrounded by a low mud wall and dry ditch ; the former has tumbled down in many places, and filled up the latter, so that it is quite easy to ride through the gaps. The southern wall is in tolerable repair. There are no defences to oppose a besieging force. This is the residence of a prince governor. Water procurable from streams at I5, 10, and 16 miles, also in pass from torrent in ravine on left. At Shiraz, water from numerous streams flowing down from mountains very good. Supplies plentiful, of every kind." — (Taylor — Clerk— Hardy.) 690 ISFAHAN TO YEZD. No. 53. ISAPHAN to SHITSTAR AS FAR AS KXMSHAH VIDE No. 52. Then through Shanriran, Fellat, Sondayan, it crosses the high chain of Mangasht to Kala-i-Tul. This appears to have been the ancient line of com- munication, and it is frequently taken by caravans, and guns have been taken over it. It goes through the territory of the Janneki Sardesar and is not practicable during January, February, and part of March. Rawlinson says the passes between Isfahan and Shilstar cannot be traversed by laden animals. Kinneir gives the following information of the communication between these places. For 40 furlongs to Salar the road goes over hills with no villages, through the Bakhtiari country. Here straw and barley may be procured. Thence 24 furlongs to Dasht-i-Zargi (or Ziari) by a bad road over hills with water and cultivation. Thence 2 furlongs is Shiistar. No. 54. ISPAHAN to SHI/STAR. Another road occupies ten days for caravans and goes by Gotwand, Zalle, Anda- kan, Shunbar, Chillow, Baziift, and Char Mahl. It is practicable for loaded mules, but not for guns, and during three months is impracticable from snow. The worst part of the road is between Andakan and Char Mahl. It goes through the Bakhtiari country. No. 55. ISFAHAN to YEZD. 9 marches, 167J miles. Deh Ni5n — 5| miles. We were in the saddle at a quarter past twelve, and traversing the Maidan-e- Shah, wound through the bazars, and at a quarter to one got clear of the inha- bited part of the town on the side where the remains of its ancient wall are observed, and near to the Kush Khaneh, a gevernment building or palace. To onr right, extending, over some miles, lay one field of ruins, without an inhabi- tant, and the transition from a busy bazar to so desolate a spot, in the space of a few minutes, was curious. Our direction lay east along a good road, close to a streamlet flowing in the same direction, and known as the Murgab. At the end of 5^ miles we reached the village Denun. I had intended proceeding farther, but was assured there was no habitable place within 20 miles. The village cer- tainly appeared poor enough, but was the first inhabited one we had reached in the space of nearly six miles, and on every side were scattered far and near the ruins of others. Veetan— 20| miles — 26 miles. We travelled over a smooth plain* where presently all cultivation ceased ; and at the 5th mile, entering upon a kewir or salt tract, we proceeded for 2j miles across it. Small streams intersecting this plain flow eastward. The surface is Miles. t 1 9 * Bearings and Distances. Miles. 60° 3. 60° 80 2 70 40 2J 80 and 90' 60 ... 1* 90 1 691 ISFAHAN TO YEZD. white with the salt or soda, and the soil frequently soft and rotton, or firm, hut utterly barren. After the 13th mile we reached a fine dry, gravelly tract, free from traces of salt, and with a sprinkling of shrubs and thorns ; and here we gave chase to a considerable herd of antelopes. At the end of 20^ miles we alighted at the village Vertan. This wretched village contains about 20 families, with some gardens and trees. 3. Feshabk — 14 miles — 40 miles. Our path led us in a direction of 100° over a hard, gravelly plain by a gentle as- cent , and towards the end of the 5th mile we passed to our left, at a distance of about 3 miles, the village Zifreh, situated under the mountains at the opening of a valley ; at the 6th mile occurred a reservoir of good water, and at the 9th we changed our direction to 90°. Towards the end of the 11th mile we reached the mezraeh Durgherd, consisting of a small plantation of trees and a sheep-fold, but no habitation. The path thence led, in a direction 90" for 2§ miles, to a second mezraeh, called Karuse, a pretty spot of cultivated land, and trees covering a con- siderable space ; and about two-thirds of a mile beyond brought us to the village Feshark, which I had not expected to reach so soon, the distance from Vertan having been said to be full 5 fursacks, though it really does not exceed 14 miles. Feshark is a pretty village of some 50 or 60 heuses, situated close under the mountains and surrounded by gardens and groves. 4. Tc Dishk — 20 miles — 60 miles. From Feshark* the road led in a direction over low hills extending from the foot of the mountains, and, as the direction altered frequently, I give the various bearings, the rate of travelling varying from 3g to 4 miles per hour. At 5j miles we reached the hamlet of Jebbel, consisting of a few huts amid gardens and trees. Far off, in a S. E. direction, a long streak of Bait kevvir was shining brightly in the sun, and having the appearance of a lake. This is the marsh of Gav-Khaneh, where the waters of the Zaenderud are absorbed. Leaving Jebbel, we soon reached the plain, after gradually receding from the mountains, and at 8£ miles we came to Akhord, another hamlet like the preced- ing. At a mile beyond was that of Kiki, situated 2 miles on our left ; at a simi- lar distance to the E. of which is the village Dakhobad. At 12| miles we reach- ed Jizzeh, formerly a large village, but now partly in ruins ; and at the 16th mile we came to Mush Kynan, a large but very ruinous-looking village. Thence we came, in a direction of 100° for % of a mile, and of 90° for 2f miles, to the hamlet of Tu Dishk, situated at the foot of some hills, which springing from the main range on the N., extend some 12 miles into the plain in a southerly direc- tion. Distance travelled about 20 miles. 6. Banviz — 23 miles— 83 miles. At the 1st mile, in an easterly direction, we passed a small mezraeh of three or four huts, and then proceeded through hills, by a slight ascent, gradually bear- ing to the N. of E., to about 70o to the mezraeh Pa Brehneh, which is a little fort, with a spring of water. Passing this, the road led E. over an open space between hills. At the 5th mile we reached the mezraeh Yezde, after which the road led, by a gentle ascent through hills, in an easterly direction, until the 7th mile, when we commenced a gradual descent in a direction of 130°, passing two more mezraehs situated to our right, the cold obliging us occasionally to alight * Searings and Distances. 130° 110 to 120° 140 to 120 140 110 140 130 120 100 Miles. . 3* 120< 1 140 1 100 . If 310 14 100 i 90 i l i Miles. li I 3 t 21 19| 692 ISPAHAN TO YEZD. and walk. At the 9th mile we passed on our right the mezraeh Lar Budeh, beyond which, at about a fursack distant, is situated the village Mehrabad. At 9J miles we reached a spot where two roads branched off, one leading to Nain, the other in a direction of 90°, which latter we followed by an easy descent, still through mountains. At IO5 miles we entered a narrow valley, passing imme- diately a little mezraeh ; and a few hundred yards farther on, another, called Laghereh, both inhabited and belonging to Nain ; the direction was 70° to the latter, then 90° and 100° to a third at the 12th mile ; and afterwards it was 110" to Hadgiabad, a hamlet at the 13th mile. Half a mile lower down the valley, in a direction of 120°, brought us to another Hadgiabad, from whence, between the points 100° and 130°, the path led us to the village Ishretabad, at the J 5th mile. The valley, which latterly had widened considerably, opens here into a small uneven plain, in which Ishretabad, with its mound and little fort, is situated. Prom thence to Eliabad, another small village one mile distant, the direction is 80°. From Eliabad we proceeded eastward towards the great plain of Nain, reaching, at I of a mile, the Ealeh Pudaz, a little village and fort, from whence our bear- ing was 70° for 3 miles, which brought us to the hamlet of Kudunu. Here we were fairly in the plain of Nain (having mountains on our right), the soil of which at this part is hard, dark, and gravelly, and covered with low tufts. Moun- tains bound it on the N. and S., and at its western extremity. From the above hamlet the direction led in 70° for a short space, then E.— in all 2§ miles ; after which, on a bearing of 100°, we reached, at 2j miles farther on, Banviz, a deso- late-looking village, of some forty or fifty families, where we experienced diffi- culty in obtaining shelter. Here we found several caravans, which had been detained some days, in fear of proceeding on their way to Tezd, having heard that fifty Bakhtiari horsemen held the road. From Banviz there are two roads to Aghda ; one leading by Nu Gumbez, 3 fur- sacks off, and thence 9 fursacks to Aghda, and one by Arakan, a ruinous and uninhabited mezraeh. Nu Gumbez, which belongs to Aghda, has a caravanserai, village fort, and tower, but at present no inhabitants. Twelve fursacks make a long stage ; and, when danger is apprehended from Bakhtiari or Beluch plunder- ers, caravans steal along by night, but are frequently plundered on this road. 6. Nain — 10 miles — 93 miles. Proceeding in the direction noted* in the bearings, at the 7th mile we reached the small village fort of Bafran, thence Mezraeh Shah at the 9th mile ; and ^ a mile beyond to Mahumedieh, a rather large village ; we reached Nain at the 10th mile, passing outside it a handsome Imamzadeh and a good brick-built caravanserai, the latter of which is, as usual, referred to Shah Abbass. 7. Aghda— 33 miles — 126 miles. We set out early for the perilous stage, my baggage accompanied by an escort of fifteen matchlock-men, the direction at first on a bearing of 100°, and we had proceeded only a few hundred yards from the village when my greyhounds gave chase to a herd of eight antelopes. After travelling 3£ miles on the Nu Gum- bez road, the direction altered to 110°. This plain appears greatest in extent from S. E. to N. W., in both which directions there is a clear horizon, showing that the level country extends far beyond. Its breadth N. and S. is likewise considerable. The road by Arakan (now a ruined place) lies about 6 miles S. of the one we were on. At 5£ miles we reached a spot where two roads occur ; one leading to Nu Gumbez, about 6 miles off, in a direction 70° ; and the other which we took, leading in a direction 120° ; this latter is called the Jadeh Hadji Abdulleh, and is rather more direct than that by Nu Gumbez. At the 10th mile we alighted to breakfast at a small stream covered in with brickwork, and * Bearings and Distances. Miles. No. 10° E. ... ... i No. 30 E. ... ... i No. 20 E. to Bafran... ... 6 Miles. 290° to Mezraeh Shah ... ... 2 Do- to Mahumedieh ... ... i- 270° and 280° to Nain ... ... li 693 ISPAHAN TO YEZD. flowing towards Nu G-umbez ; and proceeding again, in direction 130°, we passed the ruined hamlet of Chehar Basheh, situated at the foot of the hills some 7 miles S. of the road. At 10J miles the road gradually inclined to the B. to 115°, and soon afterwards we traversed an uneven tract, crossing at the 14th mile a little streamlet of intensely- salt water, flowing N., and leaving a thick deposit of brine in its course. This point is considered the most dangerous on the road. Thence our direction was 135°, and soon after, dismissing our guard, the path varied between the above point and 120°. At the 19th mile the direction became — 130° for 1J mile. 100 to 120" for 1 mile. (Sere an Ab Ambar, or cistern, was passed some 3 miles to our left on the other road.) 90° to 1 10° for 2 miles. {Here we passed \ a mile S. of a large brick cara- vanserai and a village fort unoccupied.) 110° for ]\ ^ } Kevvir or salt desert ' 125 for 3f „ reach the Mezraeh called S&ehrabad, where there are two date trees. 125° for 2| miles, reach Aghda. The distance is therefore about 33 miles. The caravanserai and village alluded to above as being unoccupied were erected by the late Governor of Yezd, Hussein Khan, for the convenience and protection of caravans and travellers, in this otherwise deserted and dangerous tract of country, but his successors have allowed the place to become untenanted. The plain we have travelled over is a hard, dark, gravelly tract, more or less clothed with tufts and low bushes, and abounds in parts with game. Antelopes are numerous ; the wild ass is also frequently observed ; and we found the Hobara bustard and red- legged partridge. 8. Mebut — 24| miles — 150J miles. We proceeded from Aghda on a bearing of 110°, passing at the 2nd mile the village Shemshabad, situated on the road side to our left. At the 7th mile we passed two mezraehs, situated at about 1 mile distant, and If mile to our left both call- ed Sav, and from this point the hamlet Arjenan bore S.E., distant some 7 miles. Thence the bearing of the road was 100° till the 10th mile, when we alighted to breakfast at a ruined mezraeh called Chifteh, which consists of some enclosed cultivation of wheat and cotton, with fig and mulberry trees ; thence 110° to the 11th mile, when we passed between Arjenan, situated 1^ mile S., and two mez- raehs, at about as much N. of us. The road then varied, for f of a mile, between 120° and 90°. over low hills ; then on a general bearing of lo0°, over smooth ground, for -| mile ; 1 mile 130° ; 2f miles 115° ; from which point, in a direct line south, the mountains we had on our right since quitting Banviz terminated in a point ; and another range a little south of them extended eastwards, at the time partially covered with snow. To the N., at the distance of a fursack, a tract of salt extends over a space of some miles. We continued on the last bearing one mile, the plain becoming perfectly bare, hardly a tuft being visible on it ; then -j mile 110°, 2 miles 100 . The large village of Feruzabad lies about 2 miles to the north, and it about 7 miles in the same direction is the town Ardekan, to which there is a direct road from Nain. At the 21st mile was a small, square, deserted fort by the road-side ; and at the 22nd mile the bear- ing was 105° for £ a mile, with the village Meyjerd 2 miles distant on our left. We then passed near extensive gardens, and at 23£ miles reached Bideh, a vil- lage situated on an elevated part of the plain, and possessing a fine tract of field and garden land, on the former of which cotton and green barley were standing. A mile beyond, in direction 110°, brought us to the caravanserai of Meybut. Though I cannot estimate the distance travelled to-day at more than 24| miles, it is usually reckoned at 9 Arak fursacks. 9. Yezd— 17 miles— 167^ miles. Quitting Meybut, we proceeded about a mile, on a bearing of 140°, and then south through fields of cotton and wheat; for another mile 130°, which brought us to the hamlet of Shemshabad. One mile beyond, in the same direction, we 694 isfahXn to yezd. passed the village of Bedrahad, occupying with its gardens a considerable space. The soil of the plain, for miles past, had altered from a hard dark gravel to a light soft mould, altogether barren, excepting where it is culti- vated. At this part it is intersected by numerous water-courses, which give life to the various villages around. Direction, at the 5th mile, 120°, and at the 6th mile 140°, when we reached the village of Mahomedabad, and left the district of Meybut for that of Eustak. Here the plain is a sandy desert, the sand lying io high banks against the walls of the houses, and in small mounds in every direction. At the 8th mile we again reached a cultivated tract, where the labourers were strewing earth, taken from old mud walls and banks, over the fields to improve the soil. At the 9th mile we passed Ibrahim-abad, a small village to our right. The plain had narrowed considerably for some miles back, and was here of no great width. At 8 miles the direction altered to 135°, and f of a mile beyond to 140°, the sand increasing in depth and extent, and ruins of villages which have been overwhelmed by it. At 9J miles we passed the village Shemshabad, lying a little to our left, and proceeding on a bearing of 120°, reached that of Izzabad at 10| miles. From Izzabad* we proceeded on a bearing of 160°, and presently got off the sand on to the high road we had quitted yesterday, when the direction became 120°, the way leading through well-cultivated land belonging to villages on our right. At the 4th mile occurred the caravanserai of Hemmet-abad, the village itself lying off the road a little to the right ; we then traversed sandy desert again, in which sand-hills of considerable size occur. At the 7th mile we passed through the large village of Ashkezer, situated amid sand-hills, and possessing extensive walled gardens ; but I could perceive little other cultiva- tion, the sands having also encroached on one side of this village. Thence the road passed over a hard tract again, the plain still decreasing in width as we advanced, and is probably not more than 15 miles across at this part. Towards the 9th mile was the village Zauch, situated ^ a mile to our left, and having near it a remarkable hill called the Takht-e-Jemshid. Its sides are abrupt, and the summit level. Here I was told the district of Eustak terminates. After this sandy desert is again traversed. Beneath the sand is a firm indurated soil. After travelling llf miles, we alighted at the caravanserai of Gherdfi- lumerz, or Ghitfilumerz, a village with much neatly-cultivated land amid sand-hills. At 5 a mile from Ghitfilumerz we passed a small square fort with double wall, belonging to the village Abrendabad, which extends eastward from it, and soon afterwards got upon a hard tract of plain, passing at the 15th mile the village Merdabad, a little off the road to our left. At the 16th mile was the village Kehnu, and that of Nussrabad immediately after, both likewise off the road to the left. On the S. W. and S. side, and almost adjoining the town of Yezd, are the villages Kucheh Beeak, Ser-e-Du Rah, Aristan, Khoorem Shah, and Ab Shah; on the E. is Muriabad. I was met by an Istakbal, headed by the Lieutenant-Colonel and other officers of a regiment sent out by the governor to escort me into Tezd.f which city we entered at the end of the 17th mile. 160° 120° 100 to 120° ... 140 to 170 130 120 150 120° 100° 130 and 100° ... 110 to Ashkezer 120 and 100° to Zauch * Bearings and distances. Miles. i li i 2 1 2 1 1 m Miles. H 110° 1 120 1 110 Ghitfilumerz i 150 fort 1 3 140 i 115 Merdahad t 115 to Kehnu t 115 to Yezd ... 2 It t My previous Report to Her Majesty's Government contains a full description of the city f Yezd. .of Yezd 695 ISFAHAN TO YEZD. No. 55A. ISPAHAN to TEZD. The road from Ispahan to Tezd consists of three natural divisions, 1st, 50 miles or nearly so in an easterly direction, over the flat plain of Ispahan ; 2nd, 30 miles in the same direction over hilly ground, the continuation, evidently, of the great range of hills that passes by Koom, Kashan, Kohrood and Natenz ; and 3rd, 120 miles in a south-easterly direction over an offshoot of the great plain of Khorasan. Coming from Teheran to Tezd by Ispahan, one is consequently obliged to cross the Kohrood range twice, first at Kohrood itself, where the hills are high and rocky, and frequently impas- sable from snow in winter, and secondly 50 miles to the eastward of Ispahan, where they are much lower and less precipitous ; whereas the direct road from Teheran by Kashan and Nain is over one continuous plain. 1. Gtjlnabad — 14 miles. Starting from Julfa, we rode nearly four miles along the southern or right bank of the Zainderood (lit Living River) which we crossed by the lowest of the five fine bridges of Ispahan. Thence our road passed over seven or eight miles of a well cultivated district irrigated from the river, and con- taining several villages surrounded by trees and pigeon towers. From the fields and gardens we gradually ascended above the level of the irrigation in the direction of a prominent peak at the northern end of an isolated hill which we afterwards passed close to our right. This peak is nearly east of Julfa and is distinctly seen from Ispahan. Prom this point we again descended to an extensive plain on the level of the irrigation, in which was situated, some four miles off, the village of Gulna- bad, 14 miles from Ispahan, where we halted for the night. 2. Sagzi — 15 miles — 29 miles. The road is over a perfectly flat desert plain with large patches of white salt excrescence on the surface. On the northern horizon are the hills in pro- longation of the Kohrood range, and on the southern beyond the Zain- derood, the lofty range containing the well defined peak of Kolah Gazi. Segzi is a considerable fortified village with a good caravanserai outside the walls. Bearings — small conical peak on the Ispahan road 261°, Kolah Ghazi 22C°, highest near point of Natenz range 49°. The water is brackish. 3. Kupa — 21 miles — 50 miles. The road which is very good passes over a bare flat desert with a slight gradual rise toward Kupa. Ten miles from Segzi on the road side, we passed a small Hauz or tank of rain water, and another six miles farther on. The caravan- serai at Kupa is one of Jthe finest in Persia. Bearings from Kupa : — Small conical peak on Ispahan road ... ... ... 262J° Kolah Ghaz ... .. ... ... ... 2381° Highest near point in prolongation of Natenz range ... 350° Prominent bluff in do. do. do. ... 52° 4. Laghebah — 30 miles — 80 miles. From Kupa the road ascends by a gentle slope to the foot of the range to the left of the road which we have been gradually approaching since we left Ispahan. Six miles from Kupa we saw a few houses close to the road on our right, and a village about a mile off to our left. Within 4 miles of the entrance to the hills, and about 11 from Kupa, we passed the larger half- ruined village of Mushkinun, a mile and a half to the south by west a small domed tomb called Imam Zadeh Oossim. Close to the foot of the hills, three or four miles to our left, we saw a number of cultivated places and small villages. At the point where our road entered the hills (4 miles from Mushkinun) we passed the village of Tudesk, whence we wound along a valley deeply covered with snow, and containing many small villages and Maz- raeh ; among others, Sadikabad 2 miles, and Paperanna 5 miles, from Tudesk. We intended halting for the night at a place called Mazraeh-i-Yezdi, but having missed it in the snow we pushed on to the small village of Laghereh on the eastern side of the crest of the hills. The snow was deep and the 696 ISFAHAN TO YEZD. weather intensely cold, so much so in fact as to freeze our beards and mous- taches into a solid mass and make it necessary to walk on foot a great part of the way. When passing the crest we observed some 12 or 15 miles to our right an extensive sheet of water, which I have no doubt is a lake surrounded by marshes in which the waters of the Zainderoor are dispersed and lost. 5. Banviz— 16 miles — 96 miles. From Laghereh the road descends, winding along between the hills, until it emerges at their feet on a glacis slope facing the eastward, on which some 4 miles from the last of the hills is situated the large village of Bambiz at which we halted. In the valleys between the hills we passed a good many villages and Mazraeh, each provided with a small defensible tower on a neighbouring eminence. Poodar, the largest of these villages, situated about 7 miles from Laghereb, has a good sized square fort. Most of the villages, we were told, are the property of inhabitants of Nain. The last of the hills which we passed before debouching on the plain are of dark colour and fantastic form. One of them, by the side of the road 4 miles from Bambiz, is a sugar-loaf shaped peak, seen as a clear landmark from a great distance on the Tezd road. Bambiz is a village of perhaps 80 or 100 houses in the open plain with no trees or gardens, and but very little cultivation. There being no caravanserai we lodged in the house of an old Hajji. 6. Nangtjhbaz — 12 miles — 108 miles. The road descending very gradually the whole way over the slope from the foot of the hills. At Nangumbaz we joined the direct post road from Teheran to Tezd vict Kashan. There is a good caravanserai of Shah Abbas, a Ohaper Khaneh or post-house, and a Kaleh or walled enclosure, but no village. The water is salt and there is almost no cultivation. 7. Shahrabad — 26 miles — 134 miles. Kode over 12 miles of flat, gravelly desert to a newly built tank of rain water which bore the inscription inside ' Ta Ali ! Ami Hassan Akdai.' After halting here a short time for breakfast we continued our journey over a very similar country, passing, 4 miles from the tank, the new caravanserai and Kaleh of Chah Nao or 'new well,' and 7 miles farther, the village of Sheherabad, about 3 miles from Akda, where we halted for the night. Distance from Nangumbaz 26 miles. The road is over a flat desert the whole way until within a few miles of Akda, where the ground is much cut up with water-courses and kanats. It began to snow when we were little more than half way, and by the time we arrived at Akda the ground was covered. Akda is a small walled town of somewhat picturesque appearance, provided with a good Chaper Khaneh and a new caravanserai. 8. Tmebttt— 31 miles— 165 miles. On starting in the morning had some difficulty in finding our way, as the whole country was covered with snow. Four miles from Akda we passed on our left the village of Shemsabad, containing some 20 or 30 houses, and 3 miles farther on a small tank where a road branches off to our left. Two miles from the tank another road leads at an acute angle to the right. Twelve miles from Akda we arrived at the ruined caravanserai and deserted Ohaper Khaneh of Chafta, where we breakfasted and took the following bearings : — Bambiz sugar-loaf peak ... ... ... 300° Corner peak of Akda range, distant about 8 miles ... 195° The road from Nangumbaz to Ohafta is over an extensive plain with the Akda. range about 8 or 10 miles to the right and high hills some 20 miles to the left. For the first 6 miles from Ohafta the road is level as before and then crosses some undulating ground with prominent low hills to the right which stand isolated in the middle of the plain. Some 9 miles from Ohafta a road branches off acutely to the left leading in the direction of the small town of Bafru, about 4 or 5 miles from Myboot. From the point of bifurcation the road is flat and good until within 4 miles of Myboot, whence, after passing a Kaleh on the left and some low hills on the right, it goes over ground much broken and cut up with old kanats. At this part of the road the soil is well cultivated, and there are numerous 697 4 q KALAT TO NTJKMANSHAHR. gardens. About a mile from the Chaper Khaneli we passed an old castel- lated-looking village on our right, called Beedeh. •9. Himatabad — 16 miles — 181 miles. Nearly the whole of the distance to-day the road lay through a succession of villages and Abadeh with cultivation. For the first four miles, as on the other side of Myboot, the ground is very uneven both naturally and arti- ficially. Emerging from the broken ground we passed a large village marked by a cypress tree about 2 miles to our left. Four miles from Hima- tabad, we passed on both sides of the road the ruins of what must have been an extensive town, and beyond it on our left a large modern village called Shemsabad. 10. Tezd— 20 miles— 201 miles. The first part of the way was along a heavy sandy road among low sandy hills. Then came a little cultivation at the village of Iskyzar and then sand, again up to within 5 or 6 miles of Tezd, where we passed the village of Tin Omar, and soon after a large village to our left, with a crenellated castle not unlike a county jail. Thence to the town we crossed a hard dry plain. — {B. M. Smith.) No. 56. J ASK to SURAF. The road is with one exception over a flat uninteresting and generally desert strip, varying in breadth from one to 15 miles between the hills and the sea. At about 12 miles east of Jask, a low sandstone spur of the range known by the several names of Bawari Dan, Daragh Regh, and Jabl Eubzah, crosses the path which passes through a gap at an elevation of 40 or 50 feet from the level of the plain. The road passes through the villages of Gabdu- Suti, Tekdar, and Gabri. The dry beds of the Harlaru, Kargane, Shahr-i-now and Karadong, and other mountain torrents cross the track besides the Jagtun, Gabri and Haymen rivers, the two former of which are rapid streams, 50 yards wide and 3 feet deep, with banks 12 feet high. These are generally dry in summer and autumn, but after heavy rain they become impassable and sometimes overflow their banks. The country passed through is sandy and barren, except in the immediate vicinity of some of the rivers where it is tolerably fertile. Some camels are procurable, but supplies are very scarce. Good water is procurable from wells sunk any where along the road, — (W. P. Johnston.) No. 57. KALAT to NURMANSHAHR. 1. Sohbeat — 7 farsakhs. 2. Kalah Rtjstam. 3. Khan Ashaboite— 7 farsangs. 4. Kieghatb — 9 farsangs. 5. MrsHGHAi— 8 „ 6. Panjgtje— 30 „ Three stages over a desolate country. 7. Dehek — 9 farsangs. 8. IsFANDAK— 7 „ 9. Kohak— 8 „ 10. Dusebk — 5 „ 11. Sebb— 7 „ A very high mountain is crossed in this stage. 12. Baz — 7 farsangs. 13. Pahka — 4 „ 14. Banptte — 8 „ Hence the route joins the Bandar Abbass and Kirnan route. — (Kinneir.) KESHAN TO YEZD. No. 58. KASHAN to YEZD. 1. Bozabad — 6 leagues. Well water muddy; provisions scarce. 2. Dehat — 3 leagues E. S. E. — 9 leagues. 3. Rtjdabad— 2 leagues E. S. E. — 11 „ Small stream. 4. Mokhab — 5 leagues — 16 leagues. A little cultivation ; small stream. 5. Aedestan — 5 leagues — 21 leagues. Tolerably cultivated ,- many aqueducts and reservoirs. 6. Shahkagin — 5 leagues — 26 leagues. Road through a defile, but little cultivation. 7. Mashani — 7 leagues — 33 leagues. Water and cultivation scanty. Road through a winding defile with no water ; situated in a vast plain. 8. Nain— Many wells, hut not much water ; some provisions. 9. Nao Kamba— 6 leagues. Water very bad and scarce. 10. Ajdah— 9£ leagues. The road goes through a desert without water for 6 leagues. Water not good. 11. Mtbtit — 10 leagues. Good well water, caravanserai, and some provisions. 12. Sezdaba — 8 leagues. Good water ; a little cultivation. 13. Tezd— 6 leagues. — (Kiwneir.) No. 59. KASHAN" to TEZD. 110 marches, 262 miles. 1. Abtj Sattad-Xbad* — 24 miles east south-east. At daylight, on the morning of the 16th of March 1831, we quitted Kashan ; at 12 miles, passed a reservoir of water ; at 16 miles, a village on the right, about a mile from the road; and at 20 miles, another on the left. Abu Sayyad-abad is a large village. The road lies over a sandy plain ; the view to the left being bounded by hills, and to the right by the Koriid range of mountains at a distance. 2. Mokhae — 40 miles south-east by east — 64 miles. At 2 miles a ruined mosque, or Imam-zadah f and cultivated ground, on the left ; 2 miles further, a small village on the right. At 16 miles, we passed through a fine village called Kelt-abad, surrounded by gardens and corn-fields. There is another village 2 miles further on, and in the course of another mile, a third. The road still lay along the plain. 3. Ajistan — 20 miles south south-east— 84 miles. Continued over the plain, passing at 2 miles, a village on the right ; and at 12, two others, about 2 miles distant from each other and from the road. Ajistan is a large straggling town, surrounded by gardens, and celebrated for its pomegranates. 4. Safeegan— 18 miles east south-east— 102 miles. After crossing a gravelly slope for about 4 miles, we entered a narrow gorge in the hills, through which a rivulet winds. Safergan is a large village surrounded by high hills ; it is not walled. The population is considerable ; and it has a thriving appearance. * Perhaps Aba Su'fid-abaa. The names in the original are not spelt on any uniform principle, and often solely frpm the ear : where the equivalent here given is doubtful, the original spelling has been added below.- Ed. t Literally " Imam-born :" it is the title of the descendants of the Twelve Imams, and is applied in Pe'sian to their tombs, which are places of pilgrimage.— Ed. 699 KAZfltfJN TO BBHBAHAN. 5. NeyXsanah— 26 miles south-east — 128 miles. For 12 miles we continued to wind through the gorge in the mountains ; after which the road opens upon a vast plain, dreary and barren. 6. Nayan— 20 miles south-east— 148 miles. We continued along a desolate plain destitute of water to IsTayan, which is a considerable town. There are many ruins in its environs, and the water is brackish. » 7. Ag D:eh — 40 miles south south-east— 188 miles. "We again entered the desert ; a small village, with a spring of fresh water, at 12 miles. At 20, we passed a fine caravanserai and a salt stream, but no fresh water, nor did we meet with any till within a couple of miles of Ag Deb, which is a town of some size, surrounded by a high wall in good repair. The country around is well cultivated, but the soil is in many places strongly impregnated with salt. There are many date trees in the neighbourhood of this place, and a stream of salt water. 8. AedekXn — 28 miles south-east— 216 miles. Still along the desert. At 4 miles, we passed a wretched village nearly smo- thered in loose sand ,- at 12 miles a second, in a similar condition ; and at 16 miles, a stream of fresh water. At 20 miles, we crossed a low and narrow range of hills, and entered a part of the plain which bore a more cheerful aspect, being interspersed with villages and cultivated ground. Ardekan may be termed a city. It contains a good bazar. This place is situated near the borders of the Great Desert, which our road had skirted for some days. The country for the most part is covered with loose sand, into which cattle sink knee-deep at every step, and as it is driven about by the wind in vast clouds, it renders travelling exceedingly disagree- able ; and banks of it are thus formed against the walls of all the gardens and villages. 9. Askanadi— 26 miles south-east— 242 miles. We still skirted the desert through deep sand. At 6 miles, a large village ; at 12 miles, a second ; at 16 miles, a third ; and at 21 miles, a fourth, that of Tezd-abad, which is within a mile of the caravanserai. 0. Tezd— 20 miles south-east— 262 miles. At 6 miles the road runs through the fine village of Bskazad, embosomed in gardens. Half a mile further on, we had a view of another village, called Gaeh : many ruins were scattered around. — (Gibbons). No. 60. KAZrRU'N to BEHBAHAN theough the MAMASENr COUNTRY. 1. Chan6sh-Jan — 2 hours. I descended into the valley at 10 A. M., and followed the course of the river of Shapiir upwards in an E. "EST. E. direction. The stream is here almost choked up with rushes and other aquatic plants. At 10 h. 45 m. we entered the valley of Kuhmereh, or Desht-i-Ber, and turned N. This valley lies between the chains of mountains called Pir-i-zen and Kiitel-i-Dohter, and may be a farsang or a farsang and a half * in width : it is the same valley that is crossed in going from Shiraz to Kazeriin, near Miyaneh Kiitel, about 5 farsangs (about 20 miles) to the S. S. E. of the place where we now were. I here took the direction of the river of Shapiir.f The villages of Nudiin and Sumgul, belonging to the district of Kazerun, are in the mountains to the E. At 11 h. 15 m. we swerved a little to the N. W., and at noon reached the encampment of Jehangir Khan, Mamaseni, called Chenoshejan. * About 3t or 5J miles. The farsang is from 3J to 4 miles j perhaps Maodonald Kinneir'a estimate (3|) is the caveat (Sir W. Ouseley'sTravelB,vol. 1, p. 11.) t The Granis of Nearchus (Vincent's Voyago of Nearchns, p. 3681), now called Khist, from a town on its banks.— Ouseley's Trawls, vol. 1, p. 261. 700 KAZlRtjN TO BEHBAHAN. 2. Fahtian — 8 hours — 10 hours The direction of the road was N., till we had quitted the balut woods and reached the heights of Mtine'-nahl by a very stony road. On descending from Miine-nahl we entered a valley running to N. N. E. and full of oaks, and passed a spring of fresh water, named Mei Hur, on the left side of the road. At a quarter before 10 A. M. we reached a bastengah, a promontory of the mountains, which was pointed out to me as marking the place where the Mamaseni and their neighbours the Bovi, of the Khbgilu tribe, issue from their ambuscades to attack caravans. At a quarter past 11 A. M. we reached the plain called Sahrai Behram. On quitting the rock of Nakshi Behram the plain widens, and after an hour's ride we passed a sulphurous spring on the right side of the road, near the mountains. At a quarter before 2 P. M., we passed near the ruins of Nobend-jan, formerly a flourish- ing city. At the distance of a quarter of an hour's march from the ruins of Nobend-jan, is the fort of Nuvabad. From Nurabad the road passes northwards, first through the plain and then along the heights which separate the Sahrai Behram from Sha'b-bevan (Tent-pole defile). At half-past 2 P. St., having reached the culminating point of the mountain, I looked down upon the beautiful valley which disclosed itself below, watered by a river, and enamelled with flowers. We followed the valley in a N. N. W. direction, and at a quarter before 4 p. m. reached Fahliynan.* Our distance this day was between 7 and 8 farsangs (29 and 30 miles), in a N. direction. The town is supplied with water by a canal cut through the hills from the snow-capped chain beyond Kal'eh Sefid, for a distance of, perhaps, 4 farsangs (14 miles). The water of the Ab-shur being, as its name implies, brackish, it can only be used for irrigating the fields. 3. Basht — 10 hours — 20 hours. Our route was to the N. E., and, after fording the Ab-shur, we reached, at the end of an hour's ride, the Imamzadeh of Shah Abdu-l.f Having mounted, again, at 8 h. A. M., I crossed some well-cultivated fields in a W. by W. ST. W. direction. At 9 h. a. m., I passed the ruins of Chehar Bazar (Wednesday Market), a town one farsang N. of Fahliyan. At 10 h. A. M. the hills came close to the road, which here forms the boundary between the district of Fahliyan and the territories of the Mamaseni of the tribe of Rustem. At 10 A. M., we entered the valley of Serab-i-Siyah (Black Water-Head), lying between two parallel chains of hills. At first it is well cultivated; but farther on, it is cover- ed with high grass, and becomes a mere swamp which abounds with game. Many springs here burst forth from the ground and the rocks. There are roads along the base of the hills on either side of the valley ; I chose that on the left as being the shortest. We crossed many springs, bursting out almost under our feet, and soon afterwards augmenting the volume of the neighbouring lakes and pools, which appear to have no outlet and are very deep. On quitting Khan 'Ali Khan I forded the river Shir (Milk), or Abi-Sha'ab. Half an hour further on, always in a westerly direction, we came to a steep kiitel ;J after which, bending a little towards W. S. W.. we crossed the dry bed of a stream, entered the julgeh or valley of Basht, and at a quarter before 6 P. M. reached Basht. 4. Dagumbbban — 8 hours — 28 hours — 27 miles. On quitting Basht, at a quarter before 8 in the morning, we first mounted a very steep hill, which commands it on the S., and then descended, by a very stony road, into a valley full of oaks, wild almond-trees in blossom, and the kuhnar.§ After travel- ling 2 hours, we again came to an ascent, after surmounting which, we reached, by a long descent, at 11 A. M., the dry bed of a river coming from the snow- capped mountains of Huma to the right of the road and W. of Basht. At the time when the snows melt, the river is full of water. For some time we followed its course, and on leaving the valley turned to the W., and kept in that direction till we reached the station of Doghurnbezun,|| about 8 farsangs (27 miles) from Basht. * Pronounced Fahliytin. t Perhaps 'Abdu-llah, aa 'Abdu-1, i. e., " Servant of," cannot be used alone. J A precipitous hill. § The fruit of this tree, something like that of the service (sorbus), is yellow when ripe, slightly acid, and pleasant to the taste. [J Dogumbezan — the indissoluble knot ? 701 KHUBBES TO BAM. Doghumbe'zun is a ruined caravanserai, built near a spring of water, in a perfectly ■wild and desert place. 5. BeetbehaV— 45 miles. The distance from Doghumbe'zun to Behbehan is generally said to be 12 farsangs (45 miles) ; but I doubt whether it be so much. For the two first farsangs (7 miles), we passed through the same valley as we had followed on the preceding day ; but the mountains then close in, and the road leads for more than a farsang through a very rugged tract. We next entered a charming valley, shaded by clumps of trees, enclosed _ by high mountains, and watered by the river Shem Si-'arab,* which winds its' course through the hills in a S. W. direction. Having left the ruins of a caravanserai on the right, we crossed the river, and entered the plain of Lishter. After leaving Doghumbe'zun, till 8 a. m., our course was almost always W., but at Lishter we turned to the N. W. At half-past 8 we left a square tower in ruins on the left, as well as an Imam-zadeh near the mountains ; and at 11 A. M. we arrived by a winding road, at the bank of a large river, after having crossed two in consi- derable ones. The river which I have just named issues from the snowy range in an E. N. E. direction, and has a broad and pretty deep bed, and is called (the river of) Khair-abad, from a large village, now in ruins, on its opposite bank. It is the Abi-shirin (sweet-water) mentioned in Timur's route, the Arosis of the ancients, and the river of Hindianf of the present day. From the Khair-abad Biver to Behbehan is a distance of 3 farsangs (11 miles) ; the first in a N. W. direction, across a very rugged country, abounding in mica ; the two last westward over a level, well-cultivated country. No. 61. KHOI to NAKHSHYAN. 1. Paeschi — 5 miles N. N. W. The road goes over the plain. Any amount of forage here. 2. Khanaka— 20 miles N. The road lies through a mountainous tract, some parts of which were stony. 3. Nazis, N. The road on leaving Khanaka enters upon a very fertile valley, watered by an abundant stream called Char Pari, which runs by the village of Kara Ziadin. 4. Abbassabad— 7 miles N. W. The road descends gradually to the Aras, which is crossed by a bridge of boats in the dry season, but in the floods by a bad ferry. 5. Nakhshtan— 8 miles. No. 62. KHUBBES TO BAM. 5 marches, 116^ miles. 1. Andttjaed— 14 miles. We travelled in a direction B. S.E.J over an arid, stony, and perfectly sterile plain, in which not even a desert plant is found ; the path inclining gradually to the S., the direction at the 2nd mile became S.E. by S., and we passed the ruins of a mud fort and scattered walls, occupying the former position of * Probably the Brinana of Nearchus (Vincent, p. S73). t Also, but erroneously called the T&b. % Distances and bearings. Miles. Quit Khubbes E.S.B. Ruins of ancient Khubbes E.S.E. to deep course of torrent S.E. by S. E.SB. ... S.S.E. 5° 8. B. byE. ... Low hills ; ascend S. 5° E. Khubbes bearing N. 26° W. : castle of An. dujard on hill S. 6 W. Miles. Proceed S 6° W. ... ... ... t S. 20o W., a road leading to Hanza, 1 fur- sack off. in direction S. by E. ... 1J Hill with watch tower ; general direction S. to village Gowdin ... ... 1J B.8.W. ; Andujard, situated at a distance from its castle ... ... ... 2& 7 02 KHUBBES TO BAM. Khubbes at a period which my guide gravely attributed to the days of Lot. Towards the 3rd mile occurred the deep course of a mountain torrent. At the 8th mile we ascended some low hills of a gravelly soil, through which a deep ravine lay to our right ; |of a mile brought us to the summit, from whence Khubbes bears N. 25° W., and the castle of Andujard, situated on a lofty hill, S. 5° W. Towards the 9th mile we entered upon a level tract of soft ground, and passed at 10J miles a watch-tower on a hill. The path then wound in a general direction S. across a small plain leading us towards the 12th mile to the village Gowdin, a ruinous looking place of scattered houses sheltered amidst groves of palm, orange, and lemon trees. Passing through it we reached in a few minutes the walls of the castle of Andujard, crowning a height. The place is now hardly inhabited, and we crossed another small tract of land in direction S.8.W., reaching the village of Andujard, situated at some distance from its castle, at the end of the 14th mile. 2. Gowk- -265 miles— 40| miles. From Andujard* we travelled southwards across the plain, presently descending into the broad bed of a mountain stream, probably 300 yards wide, flowing from Sereh, but at that time consisting only of little streamlets, which are absorbed by the villages of this plain. We ascended it for nearly 2 miles and then proceeded S.W, by W., crossing some low hills, from the top of which, towards the 6th mile, Khubbes was visible, bearing N. 5° W. and the castle of Andujard N.N.E. From the N.E., and extending to S. E. of the compass, one vast tract of loot or wilderness, a sandy waste, heaped into waves and having the appearance of a dark expanse of sea, was apparent. An isolated mountain, bearing N. by W., at a great distance off, was pointed out as be- longing to the district of Ravere ; a steep descent through a very wild and rocky country brought us at 7| miles into a deep valley, called Rudkhiz, possess- ing a small stream, and abounding with wild trees, amongst which I break- fasted ; thence the road led S. up the valley for f of a mile, the trees disap- peared, and we quitted the stream, which here flows from the S.E. At the 11th mile we entered a narrow pass through a range of snosvy mountains, extending from N.W. to S.E., and proceeded by a winding path. This pass presents a variety of rock, amongst which limestone and coarse green porphyry are observed. At the 12th mile we proceeded S. by E. by a gradual ascent up a broad stony valley. At the 15th mile the village Hashtad Toon bore N. 15° W., situated under some rocks at about 2 miles distance. Advancing up the valley we got amongst snow, with which the ground was partially covered, the soil beneath soft and salt. Here my compass getting out of order I alighted at the 18th mile, at the village Fendaker. The snow increased in depth as we proceeded S.S.E. up the valley, the head of which we attained at the 21st mile, and then descended rapidly in the same direction into a vale, in the centre of which lies the large village of Gowk, where we alighted, after a ride of about 27 miles. Our baggage was more than 1 1 hours on the way from the state of the roads, and some of my people who accompanied it, arriving after nightfall, were nearly frozen, and scarcely able to speak. * Distances and bearings. S. to broad bed of stream ... ... W. S.W.. S.W., by S., and W.S W., ascend it Quit it S.W. by W„ towards hills S.W. by S. •• , ,- ,. Low, gravelly bills— road leading be- tween S.S W. and W.S. W. ... ... Khubbes bearing N. 5° W. ; Andujard N.N.B. Descend ... ... ••• •" Ascend through hills Steep descent— wild country ... ... S.S.W. by slight ascent W.S.W. ... ••■ ••• •" Another steep descent into valley of Budkhiz ... ■■• Quit stream flowing from S.E. Miles. 1| II S.S.W. to dry bed of torrent ... Enter narrow pass through snowy moun- tains running from N.W. to S.E., and ascend by path winding between S.S.W, andW.N.W. S. up valley S.S.E. Here a valley branches off to N.W., then S. by E.. by gradual ascent up broad valley. Hashtad Toon bore N. 16o W. ... Fendaker ... ... ... S.E. and S.S.E. Reach head of valley Descend — reach Gowk Miles. 21 }i 5 24 6i 703 KHUBBES TO BAM. 3. TbhetJd — 38 miles — 78| miles. On the 13th January we resumed our journey, having been obliged to give our cattle a day's rest. Direction* down the valley S.E. by E., reaching its extremity at the end of about 2\ miles ; then f of a mile in direction S.S.E., past Deh Mellek, a hamlet S. E. by S., by a gentle ascent leading presently among low hills, and then, at 44 mile, by the dry bed of a mountain-stream, called Kud Khaneh Nask, from a village of that name about 7 fursacks distant. The bearings of our route subsequently varied continually for several miles, and are noted in the margin ; towards the end of the 10th mile we quitted the bed of the mountain stream leading from hills to the S., and proceeded as before by a broad valley, which is a continuation of that of Gowk, only that it is in one part broken into low hills, as I have already described. In the course of the march we encountered two caravans of camels from Ghayn, bound for Bunder Abbassi with wool, pistachio-nuts, manna, &c. They were reposing after the night's journey, according to the usual custom of camel-drivers and muleteers, who seem to prefer the night to the day for exertion. They affirm that their cattle bear the fatigue better during the cool of the night ; and arriving at their station in broad day, they are able the easier to make their arrangements for food, &c. Another reason is that the camels, on reaching their ground, are ' turned loose to graze, and would, of course, be more exposed to the attempts of thieves by night than by day. From the broad valley we entered, at the 24th mile, a narrower one leading through low hills, and reached the top of the ascent at about 27| mile ; then, traversing other valleys and hills, descended at the 31st mile into a great and very uneven plain. Here we passed a few wretched hovels, where we inquired our way to Tehrud, and reached this most ruinous little fort in the obscurity of the evening. In all this distance no water is procurable excepting in the plain of Tehrud. 4. Avebk — 8 miles — 86 J miles. We crossed the stream and proceeded easterly .f We passed through several acres of low jungle, and presently crossed the Tehrud stream and entered amongst low hills. At the 2nd mile, proceeded along a wide valley. At the 3rd mile we again crossed the Tehrud stream, which then flowed to our right, through hills, in its course to Averk and Bumm. We reached the former * Distances and bearings. End of valley S.B.E. Deh Mellek... S. E. by S., by slight ascent ... Along dry bed of mountain-stream called Eud Khaneh Nask B.S.E. ... E.S.E. ... S. byE.... E. by S.... BW. ... E.S.E. ... S.S.W. ... E.S.E. and S.S.E. ... BE, S.S.E. ... Quit bed of river S. by E. ... B. S=W.... S. by E., and S. by W. S. 15° E. s! 10° E.'j'and S. 5°"w. '..'. ... S. 5°E. ... S. S.S.E. ... Miles. 25 ■1) i 2f * S. by E. Alighted at 2 caves... S. 150 E., and 8. by E. S.S W. across valley S.W. by 8., and S. 15o W. S.S.W. ... Entered narrow valley Top of ascent then S. S. byE. Descend hills S. ... S. by E. S. by W. S. S.S.E. ... S. B.5°E..„ S. by E. Hovels ... W., Hovels Tehrud... Cross stream, E. E. 20° 8. Recrpssed stream ... S.E. and E. by S., along valley Again cross stream E.K.E. S.E. by E. f Distances and bearings. Miles. E. by S„ 1:V S.E. S.S.W. Averk Miles. 14 l 3SJ Miles. i 1 704 KIK.MAN TO BANDAR ABBAS. at the end of 8 miles ; it is sometimes called Abarek, and is a small village of about 25 miserable hovels, situated near a mound crowned by the mud walls of a fort. It stands on the skirts of a vast plain stretching from S. W. to N. E. From this point is seen a high range extending westward from 8. 30° E. 19 fursacks, or 57 miles distant. Kiih Hazar, W. by N. 42 miles off, or about 6 miles W. of Rayen. 6. Bam — 30 miles — 116£ miles. Proceeded along the bed of the Tehriid stream, which, I believe, is called Rud Ehaneh Pool. This stream has a broad bed occasioned by heavy torrents which sweep down from the mountains on the S. At the 14th mile we alighted at some ruined hovels called Darzin and entered the district of Bam.* The plain, as seen from thence, presents a wide expanse from S. 30° E. (the point of a high range running E. and W.) to E. by S., another point or termination of a low range running about N.W. and S.E. from near Averk. Afterwards we passed some reed huts of a small tribe called Aveel, and at the 22nd mile we came to Behderan, a village situated on the left bank of the stream, and having several hamlets about it. The people complained that, for three years past, their crops had been destroyed by the insect 8inn ( At the 28th mile we reached Deh Oshtur, a village on the right bank of the stream ; and at the 30th mile, alighted at Bam. No. 62A. "KIRMAN to BANDAR ABBAS. 18 stages, 382 J miles. 1. Mahttn— 23 miles S. S. E. " Tor the first four miles there were many ruins on the cultivated ground near the city. The rest of the road was over a sandy desert gradually ascending to Mahun, a straggling town of some 1,500 houses surrounded by gardens." 2. Khanakeh — 17| miles — 40g miles. " The road sloped gradually upward, turning more to the southward, and enter- ing the hills on the right by a ravine, both sides of which were covered with snow. A short distance up the ravine we reached Khanakeh, a small caravanserai in the middle of the hills lately built by the Wakil-ul-Mulk." 3. Ratmt— 26 miles— 66| miles. " For the first six miles we rapidly ascended over the snow to the crest of the hills, about 4 miles beyond which we descended to Kaleh Shur, a small cara- vanserai, or rather stable, hardly above the level of the ground. A mile or two below Kalea Shor we cleared the hills, but continued to descend over an even glacis slope nntil within 4 miles of the end of the march, when we sud- denly turned to the right over some low hills and across a narrow plain to Rayin, situated on a slight eminence under a lofty snow peak called the Shah Koh. From near Kaleh Shur we had seen in the distance, and nearly straight ahead, the high snowy range of Deh Bukri and Sarbezan." * Distances and bearings. E.S.E., along river bed S.E. 5° B. 8.E. S.E. by E. S.E. 5° B. 8.E. Ruined huts called Darzin Averk bears N.W. by W. from this. E.S.E., B. by S., S.E. by E., and E.S.E. E. 20° 8. ... E. by a ... E and E.S.E. E. Along broad bed of river, B. 5o S. E. by S. ... Miles. 24 3 54 § 1 Quitted bed of river Beached Behderan ... I of a mile S. is Khadjeh-Asker, hamlet. \ mile E., the hamlet Der-e-Bagh. i mile 8.B. by E., that of Hararun. Fort of Bam bears E. 10° 8. Thence E. E. 20 S., across stream and E.S.E. E. B. by 8., and along bed of river Deh OBhtur, on river B. by 8. to Bam Miles. i i 2 I i i H 705 4 K, KIRMAN TO BANDAR ABBAS. 4. TbheTTD— 33 miles— 99£ miles. " For the first 14 miles we followed the direct road to Sabristan, then crossing to our left a soft keveer or desert, in -which the horses sank at nearly _ every step above the fetlock, we entered the half dry bed of a river, along which we wound our way among low hills till we reached Tehrud. Tehrud " (lit. the bottom of the river)" seems to be the name of a small district rather than of any village in particular. It contains a few scattered hamlets of four or five houses each, and a large mud caravanserai in which we passed the night." 5. Sabristan — 12 miles— llli miles. " After passing through about two miles of cultivated ground, we crossed the Tehrud river, flowing eastward, and ascended by some low earth hills to the general level of the plain in which Sabristan is situated. On the bank of the river, a mile or so to our right, we saw the ruins of an old castle, which we were told had been the scene of many a fight. The day was misty and drizzling and the country along our road looked the very picture of desolation. Sabristan, like Tehrud, is the name of a small district of cultivation. There are two caravanserais close to each other, in the larger of which we put up for the night." 6. Deh Bukri — 22 miles— 133 miles. " Soon after leaving the caravanserai, the road rounded a point of the hills to the right, and thence led nearly straight up a long slope of undulating stony ground to the mouth of the Deh Bukri pass. Shortly before reaching the hills, I entered the bed of a stream, running down to the plain, which I followed up nearly to the end of the march. The ground as I ascended became covered with snow, and the weather bitterly cold. Tour miles above the mouth of the pass, I came to the small village and valley of Deh Bukri. At the further end of the valley, about four miles beyond the village, I halted for the night in a small underground stable, called a carvanserai, the floor of which was deep with mud and half melted snow. The hills all round were covered with dwarf oaks, and the bed of the stream which I had followed fill- ed with oleander and other shrubs." 7. Camp— 16 miles— 149J miles. " After two miles over very deep snow from the caravanserai I reached the top of the pass, from which I continually descended for the rest of the march. Two miles down, or four from where I started, I passed the small caravanserai of Sakhtdar. The two caravanserais are evidently built so near each other as to afford shelter to travellers who may be unable to cross the ridge during heavy snow storms. The mountains on both sides of the road are exceedingly picturesque. In spring and summer they afford excellent grazing ground for the Eliant tribes now encamped on the plains below. Just before halting I crossed a considerable mountain stream flowing to the westward." 8. Dasht-i-Khtjshk — 24 miles — 173$ miles. "From the place where I had halted, I continued to descend for about 14 miles to the plain of Giroft. The 14 miles one might divide in three parts; 1st, a steep descent of four miles through rocky defile ; 2nd, a more gradual one of five miles through a wider passage among the rocks ; and 3rd, four miles still more gradual over an open slope from the foot of the hills to the banks of the fiudkhaneh-i-Shur. On reaching this river I found it so swollen as to be quite unfordable. I therefore followed it down to the eastward, where its bed seemed to spread out and separate into several channels. After riding ten miles along the bank, I halted for the night at a small Belooch village of reed huts called Dasht-i-Kushk in the Jemalbaraz district. The chief of this beluk, Gholam Hussein Khan, Belooch, lives at the fort of Do Sareh, ten miles further down the river." 9. KarimIbAd — 20 miles, — 193| miles. " In the morning got some of the villagers to guide me across the Rudkhaneh-i- Shur which was divided into 20 or 30 channels straggling over a total breadth of about three miles. Three miles further on, or six from Dasht-i- Kushk, I came to the village and Kaleh of Seijaz, situated about midway 706 KIRMAN TO BANDAR ABBAS. between the Shoor and Halil rivers. The passage of the latter was some- what difficult, the water being deep and the stream rapid. Both rivers, I was told, are frequently quite impassable in spring, during the rapid melting of the snows. Clumps of date palms, growing near the villages, showed that I had now reached a totally different climate. From the Halil river I crossed _ a soft muddy plain covered with jungle to some low hills, on the side of which was the village of Karimabad." 10. Kugu— 15 miles— 208£ miles. " The road lay over a flat plain covered with low jungle, jujube and tamarisk trees." 11. Vakilabad — 30 miles — 238J miles. " The road was like yesterday's over the plain of Giroft, but the jungle became thinner as I advanced. Four miles from Kugu, a road branched off to the left leading to Dehnoo. I soon after passed on the left the • villages of Genjabad, Samali, and Beluk Khosro. About 19 miles from Kugu the ground was strewed with fragments of old bricks, probably marking the site of an ancient city. Near this I passed on the right the well-watered village and date plantations of Dehnupancher." 12. Gulashgurd — 21 miles — 259J miles. " Road similar to yesterday's to within five miles of Gulashgurd, where I enter- ed some low hills at the village of Khadirmah. For three miles I followed the bed of a stream of fresh water, the banks of which were covered with date trees. Then turning to the left for two miles, . I reached the castle and large reed village of Gulashgurd, the property of Nur-ed-Din Khan. It stands on an eminence near some bare rocky hills, and overlooks an extensive plain in the direction of Bandar Abbas." 13. Rudkhaneh Duzdi — 19 miles — 278| miles. " Across the plain, overlooked by Gulashgurd. This plan is flat and sandy, with a thin sprinkling of jujube and tamarisk trees. Rudkhaneh-i-Duzdi, at which there is small village and a large half-ruined fort with a good ditch, is the boundary of the provinces of Kirman and Fars, a corner of the latter of which here projects to the eastward between Kirman and the Bandar Abbas' district. The river, flowing to the eastward, is, I believe, the same that reaches Minab." 14. Godar Shuran — 15 miles — 293J miles. " After crossing the river, I gradually ascended over hilly ground and dry beds of streams to Godar Shuran, where there were four or five small huts. About half way, I passed a square open tank of fresh water by the side of the road. Within a mile of Godar, the road to Minab branches off to the left." 15. Camp— 30 miles— 323J miles." " Six hours and a half on the road from Godar Shuran to an Elian t camp, at which I halted, under the Koh-i-Nehyun, nearly the whole way over a most difficult mountain pass. Six miles gradual ascent from a small stream, which I crossed near Godar, brought me to the watershed from which I at once began a steep, rocky descent, over which it was impossible to ride. Six miles down I passed a small date plantation, called Nevergoo, which gives its name to the pass." 16. Takht-i-Khushkoh — 20 miles — 343| miles. " Two miles from the camp we came to the Sulu Balm, a large river flowing round the base of the Koh-i-Nehyun, which we had some difficulty in crossing. As the usual road passes along its bed, we were obliged to scramble over the hills on the right bank to the village of Nehyun, after which we had a good road through a well cultivated district to the small town and ruined castle of Kushkoh. Ten miles farther on, the road passing through conti- nuous cultivation, I arrived at Takht-i-Kushkoh, a town with extensive date plantations, containing about 1,500 houses." 17. Bandar Abbas — 39 miles — 382J miles. " Over a most uninteresting plain from Takht-i-Kushkoh to Bandar Abbas. I crossed some streams, which I believe all dry up in summer, and passed a few insignificant villages of reed huts." — (Smith.) 707 KIKMAN TO CHOBAR. No. 63. KIRMAN to CHOBAR. 28 stages, 628| miles. (As FAB AS SABEISTAN 5 STAGES, 111 J MIIES, vide Rottte No. 62 A.) 6. Dabzin — 18 miles east by south — 129J miles. •' Ground hard, gravelly, and tolerably level. Water abundant." 7. Bam — 17 miles east by north — 146J miles. " Road good, over hard, gravelly plain, as yesterday ; at first about east south-east, then nearly east north-east. About 13 miles, a large earthy-looking village of domes on left, called Bahdirun ; on right, a kind of caravanserai, known as ' Haji Askir.' " 8. Allahabad Foet — 20 miles east by south — 1665 miles. " Our course is amid many scattered ruins, over an open plain, hard and gravelly ; occasionally salt ground with tamarisk jungle. At 3 miles Burawur, a set of date plantations, and small villages on either side the road. Last 3 miles east south-east. Passed Gurgund at about 10 miles to south south-west, and 5 miles further, Kruk, to south. Range of small irregular hills on left, and prolonged higher range on far right. Allahabad is a kind of fort, with court and out-buildings full of poor cultivators or tenders of cattle, of all ages and both sexes ; cultivation sparse, but not wholly wanting ; water abundant." 9. Nahimabad — 16 miles east — 182^ miles. " For the first mile and a half east south-east, then turn up a broad nullah, over which look the fort of Jemali, and proceed for 6 miles north north-east and north-east to Azizahad, thence about 85 miles to Nahimabad, east south-east and east. Arjuman is described as a village to the south-west. From Azlzabad there is much jungle and cultivation. Pottinger's remark of " fine country, fertile, and well cultivated," is applicable at the present time. There are very refreshing green wheat fields, though in mere patches ; and water is abundant. The Jemali nullah has a broad bed, thickly covered with high spear grass. The hill of Basman form a striking object in the distance, about east south-east. Artillery horses kept at Azlzabad, owing to plentiful forage. Country studded with forts and farms." 10. Regan — 26 miles, 7 miles east south-east, 19 miles south-east by east — 208J miles. " About 7 miles, Burj-i-Maas, and date trees near water, with a ruin on a hillock. Up to this point tamarisk and kohr jungle, though not so thick as yesterday. The last is evidently the 'kunda' or thorn tree of Sind. Afterwards descend to a vast open plain, hard and gravelly, with wild and widely scattered vegetation. No water for about 9 miles, when soil becomes more sandy and prolific of wild product, and the ground less level. Regan is quite a small village, and, owing to the low jungle, is imperceptible till approached closely." 11. Ab-i-gaem — 21 miles south south-east and south by east — 229| miles. " After about 7 miles, the jungle ceases and road becomes stony. At 10 miles further enter the hills, another 4 miles bring us to the hot springs, which give a name to this halting place. They are indicated by clouds of smoke rising above the long grass with which the waters are choked. No village or house of any kind here, and but few traces of inhabitants. The rise is very slight on leaving the plain country. It is little more than becoming shut in by low, black, burnt-looking rocks, some sharp and angular, some like long walls with flat tops. Drinking water procurable from hot springs. It is not tepid, but aotually warm, almost hot, and, when cooled, is sweet and drinkable." 12. Saifu Din — 21 miles south south by east, 10 miles east south-east and south-east then east by south — 250| miles. " Very stony for the most part, with occasional green and grassy plots, between low, black hills, some sharp and angular, some with long flat tops. Tlie black rock is scattered about like coal broken up into small fragments. At 13 miles, ' Chahi Kumber,' where we were to have halted, but at my instance we moved on to a fine_ grassy plain with rain water, and covered with flocks of sheep and goats. This is called Saifu Din, and the ' Godur,' or pass, of that name opens out before us. Our objeot in pushing on is to avoid the rain, when the mountain torrents may come down in sufficient force to delay progress. Occasional ascents and descents 708 K1RMAN TO CHOBXE. in the day's march, but all are comparatively easy, notwithstanding the many loose stones. A few settlements of shepherds are about, but the want of population is undeniable. A Beluch guide told me that 150 soldiers had lately preceded us by this same route. They were on their way to Bampur." 13. Giban Reg— 22 miles south south-east— 272^ miles. " Road generally very stony. Follow the base of the hills in a north-easterly direction for a short distant, and turn south-east into the pass. Ascent from plain not more than 700 feet, but steep enough to cause us to dismount. The black rocks are gloomy, but picturesque. Here, regulated by the watershed, is the boundary of Nahnashir, and commencement of the Bampur district. There is a fine view, on, looking back, of the mountains south-west of Bam. The descent to the next plain is short and easy. Move across it in an amphitheatre of low hills for about 7 miles, and again reach rugged and stony ground. To south south-west are some curiously shaped rocks, one especially called ' Mill-i-Ferhad.' Cross and recross the Giran Beg river, encamping finally on its eastern side, and east south- east of the hill, known as ' Takht-i-Nadir.' Ground stony, but many patches of sand and gravel with tamarisk jungle, wild oleander, and mnch desert vegetation. Water here and there in the bed of ' Budkhana,' which is rather a mountain torrent than a river. No sign of habitation." 14. Giean Bega— 20 miles south — 292J miles. " At first follow the course of the Budkhana over stony and difficult road, the track being sometime quite lost. At 5 miles two streams meet it from east or north- east, but we turn, or rather keep to the south south-east. At 12 miles, after some rough marching, ' Sir Naran,' a halting place, with fresh-looking streams falling over huge flat stones ; water slightly brackish. At Giran Bega, see many shepherds and flocks. Encamp in a kind of rocky recess like the bed of a torrent full of tamarisk and oleander.' 15. Laddi — 27 miles south-south-east — 319J miles. " After 10 miles passing ' Chori Buzun' and black Iliat tents, reach the Budkhana of Khosrin. Another 9 miles Budkhana Zol or sol, and single BSr tree. Another 8 miles the tamarisks of 'Luddi.' Boad at first very stony, but improves at Khosrin, where we emerge from the hills into a more open country, and meet one or two small Kafilas. On leaving Khosrin, come upon a large, high, stony plain which slopes gradually downwards and improves as it becomes lower ; vegetation being less sparse and more healthy. Luddi is in quite a forest of tamarisk and thorn trees, some of fair size and appearance. Wild caper also recognized. Had some trouble in finding rain water, but a supply pointed out to us by a shepherd's boy. Flocks here numerous, and good grazing for camels. The day's encampment is cheering compared to the dreary and desolate hard, black hills left behind. The poor Beluch shepherds here, though rough outward specimens, seem civil and well- 16. Kalanzao — 14 miles south south-east — 333J miles. " To-day's encampment much like yesterday's, among tamarisk trees and on sandy soil. There is no want of grazing for herds and flocks ; and from what I can learn, rain is pretty regular here at this season. The Basman hill seen from Begante the; eastward now stands out north-east by north half north. Its shape and snowy crest make it a picturesque object." 17. Chahi Shoe, Chahi Jellal — 22 miles east — 355J miles. " I mention both names, for the first appears in the German Map ofHandekeand Leo. There is now no well there, so we moved on about a mile further and halted at one indicated by our guide. The water, however, was so putrid that we could not drink it. Better was shortly found in the vicinity. Jungle not so thick as before, and soil more sandy. No pools of rain water visible as at Luddi and Kalanzao." 18. Kutch Gibdan — 25 miles east south-east — 380| miles. " For 3 miles our course was observed to be east north-east. We left our path, and our guide, instead of seeking to regain it, started off to find an upper road which we were to have reached at a later period in the day's march. This upper road is that taken by the troops, who are reported to have been yesterday at Kutch Girdan. We reach it after some 7 miles, and see distinctly the track of men and cattle. At 4 miles further, a well ; but we passed also two or three at intervals. Another 14 miles bring us to our halting place among fine large 709 KIBMAN TO CHOBlR. tamarisks near a Budkhana, which, if not the ' Bampur' river of the map, is a branch of it. Some of our camels failed in coming up to-night. Roads heavy. The country is the same vast plain between mountains. The ranges to the north are probably 150 miles distant from those to the south, and beyond the latter is Mekran, entered only at certain passes, all difficult. Observed to-day five specimens of the ' Kirrer' or wild caper." 19. Bampur — 16 miles east £ north— 396J miles. " Crossing the Bampur nullah on the way, proceeded about seven miles to Cassimabad, a Beluch village with Farm Fort. Boad sandy and heavy through loose jungle." 20. Belushan Chap— 27 miles south-west— 423J miles. " After Cassimabad, to which place we returned before taking the road to the south- ward, the country to-day is more like a desert than any I have seen in these parts ; yet no more meriting that designation than Sind which it somewhat resembles. The sandhills are, however, few and far between, and never succeed one another with the regularity of ocean waves, as between Rohri and Jesulmir. Halting place beyond a range of these ; but I could not find a trace of the well said to mark it. Ground here a little harder and vegetation more generous than before." 21. MusKOTtr— 26 miles south-west by west | west — 449f l miles. " I am unable to find that any English or European traveller has ever preceded me in the route now followed. Esfaca, mentioned by Grant, is to the South of our position of yesterday. To-day we leave it to eastward after proceeding some two and half miles South by East. At about eleven miles, came upon a village of Lashari Beluchis, near a well and low trees. We alighted in the immediate neighbourhood and received a visit from them. Their curds, fresh butter, and dates were unexcep- tionable^ At five miles further, we came to some date trees and a pool of water in high grass. The sandhills become less obstructive, as we approach the Mekran hills, and the road is tolerably geod on harder ground. Muskotu is a poor village with few inhabitants, but has doubtless seen better days. It is situated near a date grove on the South bank of a large, broad and now dry Budkhana." 22. Fanoch: — 25 miles south south-west by south — 474J miles. " Boad hard and stony, or sandy and gravelly, intersected with many beds of streams and small ravines, and studded here and there with low black rocks or hillocks. About seven and half miles, our road joins a second from Kalunzao, my stage of the 2nd instant, between which and Fanoch are three stages. At eighteen miles, a hillock on which is a ' Sungal,' or square of low stone walls, thrown up for defen- sive purposes. A mile further, a large Budkhana called Acinini, with delicious water. This river rises here in the plains, after heavy rains, and winds into the pass of Fanoch ; thence finding its way through Western Mekran to the sea at or near Kalig. Fanoch is a comparatively large Beluch village in the plains north of the Mekran hills and close to a Pass bearing the name which enters Mekran from the Persian District of Bampur. The fort is in ruins and appears quite uninhabited. There are about 100 houses and probably 500 inhabitants." 23. Bbnth — 29 miles — 29 miles south south-west south, west south-west, south south- west south, south by west J west — 503^ miles. " Enter the Fanoch Pass into Mekran, and move for some distance through a barren defile with nearly perpendicular rocks on either side. But the road, however stony and rugged, was not so much an obstacle to our camels, as the water which in some parts was very deep and had collected in occasional scarcely fordable pits. Nor was it always practicable to avoid these. At sixteen miles, defile which had been improving, widens to open space, with view of distant hills ; these narrow and widen again. Nine miles further, Dehan, not visible from road owing to trees. About two miles from Dehan is the Benth hill, at foot of which is the village. We left it to the light, and alighted near some scattered trees beyond." 24. Gonz — 46 miles south south-east south-east — 549£ miles. " A long march of twelve hours to-day, of which the first six were spent in following the course of the Benth river, which again changes its name to Eorandab, and unites with the Nesferan. The second half was for the most part over a wild rugged country, amid hills such as I had seen daily in Eastern Mekran, and with few traces of habitation or life of any kind. It is no uncommon thing in this land to 710 KIRMAN TO KHUBBES. march twenty or thirty miles without meeting a human being or even a quadruped j and to this assertion I can testify from experience on either side of Gwadur. Passed to-day a block of white stone, which had been scooped out at the top like an apothecary's mortar. It is resorted to by the Mekranis, because the powder from the stone is considered an infallible remedy for toothache. Passed also the ' Pir Ali, or a rock cleft in twain by the Prophet's son-in-law." 25. Bast op Tenk Rivbe — 28 miles south-east east— 577^ miles. " Start about 4 a. m., but before dawn lose our path in the rocky ground, and have to wait for sufficient light to resume marching. Pall in with a ' Dowara,' or moveable village of Beluchis at ' Bir.' Descend into the bed of a mountain torrent and enter afterwards the broad bed of the Tenk river, remarkable for its high and steep banks. This we shortly abandon, and re-enter at a new point, then continuing to follow it for some miles. Prom the ' Tenk' we strike off in an easterly direction across country." 26. Khob-i-Kib — 5 miles east — 582J miles. " The five miles were not done, moreover, in one march, for we were informed before arrival at the Khani that it was not to be forded. Put up accordingly near a Beluch ' Dowara' and made a second move after mid-day. After reaching the bank of the Khani, we found the ground so soft and untenable, and the force of the current so strong, that we were obliged to abandon the attempt to cross to-day. This river comes down, it appears, from Gaih, whereas the ' Tenk' is from a point to the westward of that town. But the latter has by far the finer bed ; nor did I see anything like its steep banks at the Kham-i-Kir. ' 27. Tiz Hill — 43 miles south-east — 625| miles. " Crossed the Kham. At eighteen miles, Kham Sangam, coming from the hill of Beshimun, which was forded with comparative ease. Passed on the way some Beluch tombs within walls in good preservation; also patches of cultivation. Sixteen miles further, the sand hills of Pareg, where there are a few huts. Country difficult to traverse, in parts, from water. Road at one time among low hills and rocky ground ; at another, over alluvial or sandy soil and amid low, scattered jungle. From Pareg to the top of Tiz Hill between Tiz and Chonbar, is about nine miles, and thence only three remain to the latter place. We had seen the smoke of a steamer to seaward and were desirous of completing our journey, but night had set in, and the path was lost. Bivouacked therefore for the night on the heights above Choubar." 28. Chottbab— 3 miles south — 628j miles. " Descend the hill to Choubar." — (Goldsmith.) No. 64. KtRMAN to KHUBBES. 3 marches, 49J miles. Dabakht Anjan— 18 miles. I proceeded at once on my way to Khubbes. Getting clear of the town, I travelled for the first 4 miles across the plain towards the mountains, on the bearings marked in the margin,* and rounding a point in the hills lost sight of the town, and was presently traversing a small plain of sandy, stony soil by a gentle ascent for 5 miles, then entering the district of Kub-payeh, we crossed low hills to Giirghez, a poor, dismal-looking village. Here the rain, which had been gathering since the morning, fairly set in. At about the 16th mile, the village of Pushte Shirin was seen a mile to our left. The whole country, mountains, plain and valley, the latter of which we were then descending, slopes very Miles. 1 * Distances and bearings. Miles. N.N.K ... 2 N.E. by N. by E. ... ::: ::: 4 N.N.E. N.E. by N. N.E. N.N.E. and N.E. ... 5 E. E.N.E. ... ..i H N.E. 1 711 KIRMAN TO KHUBBES. considerably towards the E., giving one an idea of a descent towards the sea. Proceeding 3 miles farther in a direction E., through soaking rain, we reached the village Uerakht Anjan, where I was comfortably quartered by the chief of the district. The distance from Kirman is called 7 fursacks (in this part the measure has reference to the space which a laden donkey will traverse in about one hour.) I make the distance to be about 18 miles. Char Faksak — 21 miles — 39 miles. We left Derakht Anjan at 10 minutes to 7 a. m. by an ascent leading E.N.E. towards a deep cleft in the mountains, passing several small hamlets amidst trees and cultivation, and a mound called Deh Shir excavated for habitations* We entered the mountains at the 2nd mile by what proved a magnificent pass, but narrow and rough, and having a stream through it flowing eastward. Our progress here became very slow, owing to the nature of the ground and the windings of the stream obliging us frequently to ford it ; the valley occa- sionally narrowed and led by various bends, noted in the annexed bearings ; thickets occupying the banks of the stream give shelter to partridges, which afforded me some amusement. Towards the 6th mile we quitted the main valley, and ascended through a narrow ravine leading at first S. but presently S.S.E., and at the 7th mile reached the summit of the ascent, lofty mountains extend- ing on either side, then an easy descent, over rough ground, in direction S.S.E, At 7| miles the village Foosk was pointed out to the S.S.W., 4 miles distant. At 85 miles we entered a narrow ravine, having a limpid Btreamlet winding through it ; and at 9£ miles another clear stream joined it from the S. We continued down the valley, which increased in depth and boldness as we advanced ; but at 1] th mile we quitted it to ascend by steep and narrow ravine, or gully, in a general direction S.E. by 8. The mountains are here composed of limestone, and, indeed, most of the hills we have traversed to-day appear to be of that formation. At the 13th mile we reached the summit of the ascent, which, in one part, was very abrupt ; arid then we made a long descent through a wild, mountainous country, frequently springing in our way the diminutive partridge called Te- choo. At the 19th mile we reached the plain of Khubbes, which place was visible, with its groves of palm trees in the distance. At about the 21st mile we alight- ed at the hamlet Feizabad (called also Chehar Fursak). The distance is reckon- ed at 7 Arak fursacks. 1 believe 1 am safe in saying that artillery, excepting of the lightest description, could not be brought by the road I traversed this day, excepting by previous laborious engineering ; but camels can travel by it. There is another and easier road, however, from Kirman to Khubbes, which is generally avoided on account of its being frequented by Beliich marauders ; it leads from Kirman to Dehneh Mazar, and thence 7 fursacks by a valley to Dehneh Gar, a pass to the N. W. of Khubbes ; guns may be brought by this road. Khubbes. — 10£ miles — 49£ miles. The road led by a slight descent, over very rough and stony ground, past the village Kiineran, towards the 4th mile. I observed several plants and bushes on this plain as I approached Khubbes. We passed for a considerable distance * Distances and bearings. Derakht Anjan to Chehar Fursak. Wiles. Miles. BN.E. .. 1 S.E. by S.„. ... ■ E.N.E. to mouth of Pass 1 S.E. by E. ... f E.8.E. ... i E.SE. ... ... S.E. i 8.8.E. ... S.E. by E. ... 2 S. by B., to summit ... 8.8.W., descent S. and S.S.E. , quit main valley 1 ... To summit of ascent 1 E.S.E. and S.E. 1 S.S E. From hence Foosk bore s.s.w;,' S.S.E. and E. 1 4 miles off J S.E. by S. and S.E., by E. Enter narrow ravine, winding oetween S.E. ... ■ 8.S E. and S.S.W. 1 E. by N. ... ... Another stream from the E, ... 1 E. ... S.E. by E. A E.N.E, Beach plain S.E. by E., to Chehar Fursak ... ... S.E. X ... 1* E.S.E. ... 1 — E. quit main valley and ascend 1 20 >) 712 KIRMAN TO SHfRAZ. through groves of date and orange trees, and alighted after a short ride of 10| miles.* I seen elsewhere, and others, such as geech, tamarisk, and a species of mimosa. As I approached Khubbes. To show what an erroneous idea has existed regarding the situation, &c, of Khubbes, I extract the following from Maodonald Kinneir's Geographical Memoir: — " About 10 days' journey from Dushak, on the road to Yezd, lies the city of Khubbes, the chief of which acknowledges the nominal authority of Bahrain Khan Kyen6. For 2 days' journey the road leads over a range of mountains, but for the remaining part of the way over a desert plain. Khubbes is situated in the midst of the desert, 15 days' march from Kirman and 16 from Yezd.'' Khubbes is not on the road to Yezd from Dushak, called also Jellalabad, unless the southern route by Bam is taken, which cannot be the one intended ; and it is situated at less than 3 days' journey from Kirman (about 45 miles) instead of 1 5 days' march. Praser, in his History of Persia, talking of the road from Kirman to Herat, states " that in the whole tract there is but one green spot where was built the town Khubbes, in order to facilitate the trade between the northern and southern provinces." This is also a very incorrect account : there are many green spots on the road between Kirman and Herat leading by Khubbes. No. 65. KIRMAN to SHrEAZ. 1. Camp at a Gaeden — 6 miles. The road lies over a plain. The water here is good. 2. Robat — 40 miles W. — 46 miles. The road is over a plain bounded by mountains, very good the whole way. At 30th mile pass village of Bagun, where there is good water. 3. Kalah-i-Aga— 63 miles W.— 109 miles. The road is over a bare, hard, gravelly plain interspersed with jungle. At 20th mile pass small fort of Kabuta Khana. After 56th mile enter an extensive well culti- vated plain between the mountains, which here approach with abundance of water. 4. Pakala — 40 miles W. — 149 miles. The first half is over a plain, and the last among or over mountains. The road is excessively bad, but there is plenty of water on it. 5. Mistam — 8 miles — 157 miles. The road lies over a continued series of rocky and had mountain passes. 6. Shahb-i-Babak — 26 miles — 183 miles. The first ten miles is over a continuation of the range of mountains, the latter part is a bare and uncultivated plain. The road is good the whole way particularly in the plain where it is hard and flat. 7. Robat — 28 miles — 211 miles. The road is level and good over a plain. The water at this village is rather brackish and not plentiful. 8. Khaeah — 30 miles — 241 miles. The road is very good over a banjen plain, overgrown in some parts with jungle. About half way cross a river of liquid salt. * Distances and bearings. Miles. Miles. S.E. Reach high road i E. by N. . i N.E. and E.N.E. ... J E. 1 E. by N. ... ... H E. by N. . ... li N.E. i E. by S. ... 14 E. byN. ... i E.byN. . ... 2} E. i Village Kuneran ... i 10* E.N.E. ... i Alighted at Khubbes. 713 4 s KIEMaNSHAH TO STJLIMANlA. 9. KhIjnsab— 14 miles — 255 miles. The road is generally very good, through a beautifully romantic country, intersected and separated by ranges of lofty mountains, through one of which the road is cut out of the rock for about 50 yards, the path being very narrow. 10. Mazae — 14 miles— 269 miles. The road is good. The first 3 miles are rather hilly, and afterwards it goes over a plain running east and west between mountains and varying in breadth. The country is beautiful and picturesque, and in great part cultivated. 11. Near Pass of Absenjan — 42 miles — 311 miles. The whole of this march is difficult ; the mountains are near on both sides and the road is in most places stony and bad. It principally lies through a valley (with a great deal of jungle), at the west end of which is the defile of Arsenjan, which town is 5 miles north of the 38th mile. The defile is very narrow, not exceeding in some parts 50 yards in width, and nearly 2 miles long. 12. ShIbaz — At 12th mile pass village of Kanjan, at 15th mile cross the Band Amir river by a bridge ; then go over a plain for 6 miles, and then enter a valley between the mountains varying in breadth from one to 6 miles. The road is rather rough and stony in some places, but not by any means bad. — (Pottvnger) No. 66. KIRMXN to TABAS. Chasma BtJej — 8 miles. The road is over a plain. Tabas KtJCHAK — 8 miles. Kalah NtJvf — 8 miles. JAfaeabad — 11 miles. Kaiah Husein Khan— 9 miles. Reg ShtStaran— 12 miles. Haozi Sultan — 10 miles. Tabas— 11 miles. — (Kinneir.) No. 67. KIRMANSHAH to SIJLIMANIA by GAHWARA and ZOHAB. For the first two stages, vide route No. 68. 3. BfBfTAN— 8 hours N. "W. The road goes north-west toward the heights of Dalaha, over the abrupt projections from the east face of that hill through a forest. It is very tortuous and is one continued ascent the whole way, over hill and ravine, torrent and brake. The following rich valleys are crossed on this march : Nery, Daraweis, Girgovan, Bindar, Bigama, Dasht-i-mast. 4. Mie Khassae — 10 miles, 6 hours W. N. W. The road is merely a narrow path, skirting the mountain in a general direction of north north-west through a tangled forest of oak and fern, and quite impassable for laden mules (which have to go by a longer but less difficult road through the valley of Dasht-i-lil). In three-fourth of an hour reach Kalah Zanjir, then continue over hill and dale gradually ascending. The bill then turns south-west and the road becomes less abrupt to Palan, whence to Mir Khassar is 1^ hours. 6. Zohab— 3i hours W. N. W. The road descends by a very rough and zigzag road in a direction of west north-west. In one hour the forest is left and in 2 hours the foot of the range is reached, whence the road goes over the plain crossing numerous streams. 714 KONGUN TO FIEOZAB^D. 6. Abdt/la Beg — 11 hours N. The road goes over the plain of Zohah among confused and barren hillocks. At 3 hours come to a rivulet, Karachai, and shortly the Avasan, then ascend gradually the slope abutting from the bluff point of Bamu to a village of Sharaf Bayenis. Then it goes north-west up the east slope of Bamu, and is very steep and winding for one hour, when it turns north north-west along the east face of the mountains. 7. Gr/NDAB— 5 hours. The road descends east by north to the plain of the Pusht-i-Koh, it then proceeds over its undulating, broken, and arid ridges for 3 hours. It then turns north, and traverses successive heaps of the same barren natui-e with extremely abrupt and constant ascents and descents to the Ab-i-Shirvan in two hours which is forded. Then going north-east the road ascends a low ridge of hills called Nilambii, which separates the plain of Shabr-i-Zor from the Shirwar. At this place the main road joins in, but Captain Jones appears to have gone by a route more to the north. 8. HALEB.ru— 1£ hours IN". E. The road crosses a low range in half an hour to the south limit of the Shahr-i-Zor plain ; it then zigzags down to Halabja. 9. Yasintafeh — The road goes through the highly cultivated and well populated plain of Shahr-i- Zor. At 1^ hour cross the Ablizalm, and going north north-west at 2f hours reach a small branch of the Tajrud. At half hour cross the Tajrud, whence the road winds very much to avoid cultivation and canals. 10. StJLiMANi A — 4J hours. The road goes far over the cultivated land, plentifully watered by cuts from the Tajrud, to the village of Arbet, and then over the skirts of the range from Gadrun, and reaches Sulimania in about 4j hours. — (Bawlinson.) No. 68. KIRRIND to KIRMANSHAH. 1. GrAHWABA — 4 hours N. E. The road goes due north up one of the steepest ascent possible, over loose stones and masses of rock for one hour. The descent into the plain of Biwanij which then commences ; it is equally abrupt with the ascent, and it is impossible to ride down it. The road then goes over the plain, which is very undulating, with abrupt decli- vities, and crossing the Zemkan river by a ford in two hours, Grahwara is reached in three-fourths of an hour. Some supplies may be procured here. Thence there is a path through the mountains to Harunabad. 2. Chabgt/nesh — 5 hours E. The road lies along the left bank of the Zemkan river. In 35 minutes river is forded. The ascent of the Kalah Kazi range is then commenced by a rough road over undu- lating ridges with a sorry and barren aspect for 1 J hours. It then descends into the plain and goes north-east and then east for 1^, when the river Mirikh is forded, and 20 minutes more reach the stage, a small valley. 3. Kiemanshah — 5 hours E. S. E. The road ascends the Kamr-Zard range in one hour, then descends into the plain of Kirmanshah, occasionally winding along the base of Kamr-Zard undulations. At 2 hours pass a small lake with trees, called Sar-ab-is ; a small stream running into the lake is then crossed, and the road continues through the plain to Kirman- shah. — {Jones.) No. 69. KONGU'N to FIRdZABAD. 96 miles, 32 hours, 5 stages. 1. Jam ob Rez — 18 miles, 6 hours. The road goes over undulating ridges and open grounds. Water is procured from springs and wells. Camp in an open plain. No supplies. 715 KtJM TO StTLTAUiA. 2. DtrzD-GiH — 18 miles — 36 miles, 6 hours — 12 hours. The road goes over mounds and undulating ridges of pebbles. Salt water from streams, but sweet water in wells. Camp in an open desert. No supplies. 3. DEH-EtJM— 27 miles— 63 miles, 9 hours— 21 hours. The road goes over undulating rocky ridges and through a gorge. There is a brackish stream here, but the wells are of sweet water. Camp is in an open desert near the village. No supplies. 4. KoNjCu-i-Sf £h— 18 miles— 81 miles, 6 hours— 27 hours. The road goes over undulating ridges of rocks. Water is procured from wells. Camp on a barren desert. Some few supplies procurable. 5. Fibozabad— 15 miles— 96 miles— 5 hours— 32 hours. The road goes over undulating mounds. — (Jones.) No. 70. KONGU'fl to SHUtAZ. 7 stages, 40 fursukhs. 1. Yezdttn— 6 fursukhs. Water from wells. Trees, dates and konar. Road good. 2. Kottree — 7 fursukhs. Water from wells. Trees, dates and konar. Road good. 3. FIrozabad— 6 fursukhs. Water from a stream. Fruit. Roads good. 4. Meymand — 7 fursukhs. Water from a stream ; has a bridge. Fruit. Road good. 5. Mookool— 7 fursukhs. Water from wells. Fruit. Road good. 6. Babt; Hojee — 7 fursukhs. Water from wells. Fruit. Road passable. 7. Shibaz — 5 fursukhs. Water from a spring. No trees. Road passable. — (Pell No. 71. KOWEIT to MOHAMRAH. 116 miles, 32 hours, 5 stages. Fob route to Zobeb vide No. 20, distance 82 miles. Thence to Mohamrah is about 24 miles — 116 miles — 8 hours. Road lies over a desert, intersected with a net work of canals, about 100 yards apart and generally running north and south and covered with mounds. The Shatt- lil-Arab is crossed opposite Mohamrah by a ferry. Everything procurable here. (Felly — Colvile.) No. 72. KUM to SITLTANTA 7 stages — 180 miles. 1. Sava— 40 miles. . , „ At 1 1 miles enter a salt desert. About one mile further is a small hill on the lerfc, and an extensive plain covered with salt on the right. At 17 miles enter a low jungle in which continue for half a mile. At 18 miles pass village of Masjidabad on left ; the road goes over a plain to 30 miles, having a range of mountains on left two miles distant. At 31 miles pass a mosque and ruined village on right and a plain on left. At 35 miles pass another village on left. 716 LINGAH TO SHfliiz. 2. Dang — 19J miles— 59i miles. The road goes for 13 miles through a plain with low ranges of hills on hoth sides, about 2 or 3 miles distant, at end of which begins a range of high mountains on left half a mile distant. The road after this goes over very uneven ground. Half a mile from village cross a ravine. 3. Sehzabad— 48 miles — 107J miles. At 10 miles a caravanserai on left. The road theu goes through a plain with mountains ; those on the right 9 or 10 miles distant ; those on the left 4 or 5 miles. At 28 miles pass a caravanserai of Jab on right, the mountains on both sides ap- proaching nearer with low hills near the road. At 42 miles pass a village two miles on left, and on the right a plain with the mountains 15 or 20 miles distant. The road from last caravanserai ' over uneven ground. 4. Kala Hasham Khan — 12 miles— 119£ miles. At six miles pass village half a mile on right, and mountains 2| to 3 miles on left. At 10 miles pass through a village. Kazvin is 16 miles north-east of this. The road in this stage is veiy good. 6. Ziabad — 19 miles — 138J miles. At six miles cross a river, 110 yards wide, running to the east ; hills 20 miles on right and on left 6 to 7 miles. Then for 4 miles over a gentle rise, a fine plain on right and small range of low hills on left. At 12 miles pass village of Nargan three- fourth mile on right. At 18 miles cross a river, mountains two miles on left, on right 10 miles. The road in this stage is good. 6. Hya— 22 miles— 160£ miles. At 2j miles pass through a village and cross a rivulet immediately after. At 7\ another village two furlongs on right. At 8| another village three-fourth mile on right. At 14 miles pass through village of Abbas Sultania. At 16 miles pass a fort two miles on left. The road is very good. 7. StJLTANiA— 20 miles— 180^ miles. At four miles pass the village of Sang Kalah, with mountains two miles on right. Two miles more over a plain, after which it lies over and between small hills, until within three or four miles when it becomes very good. — (Kinneir.) No. 73. LINGAH to BESTEK. 1. Champah — 12 miles, 4 hours. The road passes over rocky ridges. Water is obtained from wells. The encamping ground is in the desert. Little or nothing procurable. 2. BaekahdIn — 18 miles — 30 miles, 6 hours — 10 hours. The road passes over rocky ridges. Water is obtained from reservoirs in ground. The encamping ground is in open ground. No supplies. 3. Ambeh — 15 miles — 45 miles, 5 hours — 15 hours. The road passes over ridges and some open grounds. Water is obtained from reservoir and wells. The encamping ground is in the open desert. No supplies. 4. Bastak — 9 miles — 54 miles, 3 hours — 18 hours. The road passes over a ridge and winds round the brow of a chain of hills. Water is obtained from reservoirs and kanats from springs. The encamping ground is in desert. — (Jones.) Thence to Shfraz via, Ishkanan vide No. 90. No. 74. LINGAH to SHHIAZ. 12 stages or 97 fursukhs. 1. MOZTTFFT/RREE — 8 fuTSukhs. Water from reservoir. Trees, dates. Eoad good. 2. Gellahdhtjb — 12 fursukhs — 20 fursukhs. Water from reservoirs. Trees, dates. Eoad good. 717 MAHAMEA TO HINDIAN. 3. Folasseeb— 8 fursukhs— 28 fursukhs. Water from reservoirs and water wells. Trees, dates. Road good. 4. Allamttbdhesht — 8 fursukhs — 36 fursukhs. Two fursukhs, no water ; rest of the road water from wells. Trees, dates. Two fursukhs, mountains ; rest good. 6. Choh mtjlkh— 8 fursukhs— 44 fursukhs. Water from reservoirs and water-wells. No trees. Road good. 6. Ossttk— 8 fursukhs— 52 fursukhs. Five fursukhs. No water last 3 fursukhs. Water from wells. Trees, date. Koad good. 7. Keee Kubzeejst — 8 fursukhs— 60 fursukhs. Water from a stream known as the Pul Aroos. No trees. Road good. 8. Seemehkoojt— 10 fursukhs— 70 fursukhs. Water from a stream for 3 fursukhs, other 5 fursukhs from reservoirs. Trees, date and oranges. Road good. 9. Metmand — 5 fursukhs— 75 fursukhs. Water from a stream over which there is a hridge. Orange trees. Road good. 10. Ztjnjeelan— 6 fursukhs— 81 fursukhs. No water. Almonds, pomegranates, apples, &c. Road good. 11 Kowab— 6 fursukhs- 87 fursukhs. Half the way water from a stream, the other half from water-wells. Mulberrys and walnuts. One kotul. 12. ShIbAz— 10 fursukhs— 97 fursukhs. Water from wells. Oranges, &e. One kotul.— (Pe%.) No. 75. MAHAMRA to HINDIAN theott&h the CHAB COUNTY. 40 hours, 4 stages. 1 Doeak— 20 hours east. The usual way of going between these places is by boat up the Bahamishfr and Nahr-al-Falahia, by poling and tracking. The country is under water except in the hot weather and not practicable. Supplies, fuel, water and forage procu- rable here. Very unhealthy. 2 AbbIji Hassan — 4jj hours to Jangereh east, and 10 miles, 3 hours east. As far as the village of Jangera, travellers usually go by boat, first up the Nahr-al- Falahia and then by the Jarahi, and then by the Jangereh canal, passing villages of Kotasha and Elboneim. This takes between four and five hours. Then by land for 10 miles over a plain crossing the Nahr-al-Jabar at 4 miles by a ford up to horse's girths. ■ Water, fuel, camel thorn procurable. 3 Bandae MashIje — 18 miles, 6 hours east-south-east. At 1\ miles leave canals, whence no more water on this stage, then over a dry sandy plain rising gradually towards the south-west. At 6 miles come to a splendid plain covered with grass, and the flocks of tents of nomades over which the road continues for 4£ miles, when grass becomes more scarce and at last ceases 11 into Bandar Mashur. # In spring rain water is abundant here, but in summer there is only a little that is quite brackish in wells. Supplies, forage and fuel procurable in small quantities. 4 Hindian— 25 miles, 7 hours east south-east. 'For 6 miles over a plain of dark brown alluvial deposit with very little grass, the plain then rises and is covered with grass, which however ceases in the next 3 miles. The last 3 miles is over a plain with grass ; water, forage procurable, also some fuel and supplies. 718 MARAGHA TO MfANA. No. 76. MAHAMRA to SHITSTAR. 7 stages, 46 fursukhs. 1. Tellohiyeh — 10 fursukhs. Water from river. Trees, date and reed jungles. 2. Boyh Syed— 2 fursukhs— 12 fursukhs. "Water from river. Trees, date and reed jungles. 3. Ameeseh — 12 fursukhs — 24 fursukhs. Water from river. Trees, dates ; roads good. 4. Awaz — 3 fursukhs — 27 fursukhs. Water from river. Trees, dates ; roads clear. 5. Oweis — 4 fursukhs — 31 fursukhs. Water from river. No trees ; roads good. 6. Bundhkeel — 5 fursukhs — 36 fursukhs. Water from river. Trees, konar ; road good. 7. Sh6shtee — 10 fursukhs — 46 fursukhs. Water from river. Trees, konar ; road good. — {Pelty.) No. 77. MANGASHT to SHU'STAE. 1. Tui— 24 miles. The road lies along the skirts of the Mangasht range. At 16 miles pass village of Abii-1-Abba.s. 2. Shakbab— 40 miles. The road is exceedingly difficult. The descent from the range is so precipitous that it is impossible to ride along it. Down the road follows a rocky valley along the north face of the Koh-i-Asmari, at the north-east point of which it enters the beautiful plain of Giilgir. It then crosses a range of sand bills and descends to Shakrab. Prom thence to Shiistar vide No. 111. This path saves 8 miles in distance between Shiistar and Mangasht, but it is not more expeditious than route No. Ill and is rarely travelled except by the Bakhtians No. 78. MARAGHA to MIANA. 1. MtJEDi— 8 miles S. W. There is a river here. 2. BlLKABAD— S. E. The road passes a country of slight ascents and descents with a tendency to table land like the hills about Maragha. It is very fertile. 3. Chigin— N. E. The road is over a naked and uninteresting country, covered with tents of Shekakis. Here is the Karangu river. The road crosses a great number of streams. 4. Saeaskand — N. E. At 3 miles pass Gultapeh. The road then strikes into a succession of hills till a valley is reached, which flows into the Miana river. The country passed is exceedingly fertile. 5. Khatunabad — 16 miles E. N. E. At 4 miles pass Gulijeh. The road goes through an exceedingly fertile country. 6. Be Bolagh— N. E. The road goes over a hilly country. 7. Miana— S. E. The road descends. ( — Morier.) 719 MASHAD TO KHIVA. No. 79. MASHAD to ASTRABAD. ChinabXn — Ilchi Gadi5i— Kabi5shan— Shebvan — BtizANJABD — Mama— Semalghan — Kal Posh — Hajilttb — Kenashak — Katijl — KtJNDtJZAK — ASTBABAD — 12 miles. 8 miles — 20 miles. 10 miles— 28 „ 10 miles— 38 „ 12 miles— 60 „ 8 miles — 58 „ 10 miles— 68 „ 10 miles— 78 „ 6 miles — 83 „ 15 miles — 98 „ 7 miles — 105 „ 7 miles— 112 „ 7 miles— 119 „ (Kmneir.) No. 80. MASHAD to BOSTAM. Chinaban— 12 miles. Ilchi Gtudae — 8 miles — 20 miles. Kabttshan— 10 miles— 30 11 Sheevan — 10 miles— 40 Bttzaugabd — 12 miles— 52 11 Kalah-i-Shediltj- - 8 miles— 60 u ISAEAI — 10 miles— 70 11 Abbassabad — 12 miles— 82 Maeinan — 5 miles— 87 11 Baeotjl — 10 miles— 97 11 Deh Mttia — 7 miles— 104 it BOSTAM — 10 miles— 114 „ (Kim No. 81. MASHAD to KHIVA. From Mashad to Moozderan is about fifty-five miles. This is the frontier station of Persia on the road to Merve, and is occupied only by a small military guard to watch the movements of the Toorkomans, and give speedy intelligence of their inroads from this side of the desert. From Moozderan to Serrekhs, about fifty miles, is desert and destitute of water. It is situated on the river Tejjen, which at this point contains a considerable volume of water, but after flowing some distance to the north is absorbed by the sand of the desert. The road as far as the Tejjen is firm, and adapted for the employment of wheeled carriages ; but beyond it to Merve, a distance of about 110 miles, a considerable portion of the way being through a sandy desert, guns, although of small calibre, are with difficulty dragged across it. "Water too is nowhere found between the rivers Tejjen and Murghaub, unless in one or two cisterns and wells. In spring the former is drinkable, but later in the season the traveller who cannot afford to trans- port it on camels, in skins, must content himself with the fetid and brackish produce of the wells which are found about ten or twelve miles distance from each other. In spring the distance between these two rivers, and between the Murghaub and the Oxus, can, by eating sparingly, be passed without suffering much from thirst ; but after the heats have commenced, fluid of some sort, however offensive it may be to the palate and smell, must be largely drunk to supply the constant drain from the system which a temperature of 115° to 120° in the shade creates ; and when this has been continued for a week or ten days consecutively, the degree of 720 MASHAD TO MEEV. thirst to which the wayfarer is exposed may he readily understood when it is re- membered that during that period he has been forced, to obtain momentary relief, to swallow drafts of saline liquid which only add force to the insatiable craving which devours him. Shortly after leaving Merve the traveller again enters the sandy desert, and through it continues his way until he reaches the Oxus, at a place called Kabaklee (the pumpkin-ground), a distance of about 170 miles. In spring, after the winter snows have disappeared, and the soil has been moistened by the venial rains, the surface is everywhere covered with a bright coat of verdure, scanty indeed when looked at near, but when viewed in the distance giving the appearance of a rich sward in all direc- tions until lost in the horizon. At this season the immensity of the space, the freshness of the air, the richness of the green tint under foot, and the clearness of the sky above, exhilerate the body and give an elasticity to the spirits s imil ar to what is experienced at sea when, under easy sail, and on a smooth sea, the ship, a solitary speck on the watery desert, is daily advancing on its way to the promised port, and enables one to understand the feeling of attachment which binds the nomad to the place of his nativity. Some portions of the desert are, however, covered with the shrubby tree called Fak. It grows to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, and some of them are, near the ground, of considerable thickness. But the wood is so dry and brittle that it is an easy matter to snap even the trunk asunder ; and as it has so little of the sap of vitality, when thrown on the fire it ignites at once with a clear but short-lived flame, and burns with little or no smoke. The dingy colour of the trees, their stunted and aged form, and the silence which reigns among them, give those wooded tracts such an air of desolation and sadness, that the traveller gladly exchanges the shelter and warmth they have afforded for the cold night breeze on the open steppe. In summer the wind almost always blows from the north ; and as then every blade of grass has been burned up, the light sand is drifted along and deposited in waves, whose slope is abrupt towards the north, and falls gradually on the other side. The chief wells on this line of road are those of Kishman, Yak Keeper, Yandaklee, and Sartlanlee. About thirty-six miles before reaching the Oxus a low range of hills of pure sand rises above the level steppe ; and in gratitude for the blessing of pure, sweet water it dispenses, has received the name of Takht-e-Suleiman (Solomon's throne). Water is only found, as on the steppe, at the depth of many fathoms beneath the surface, and both saline and fetid, while here, at a high elevation, and by merely scooping the sand for a few feet with the hand, sweet water oozes out and fills the cavity. At Deveh Boyoon the cultivation begins, and the road, leaving the river, branches off to the left to the town of Hezar Asp ; but it is only on reaching this latter place that the highly cultivated lands of the Khivan-oasis are fairly seen. Prom this place to Khiva, about 42 miles, the whole country is covered with smiling fields, unwalled villages. The alluvial tract is of little breadth, hut is intersected in all directions by canals for irrigation. Every spot which has been reclaimed or preserved from the encroach- ment of the surrounding desert is carefully wrought into cultivation. The ground being everywhere level, single-horse carts of rude construction, the wheels without any girding of iron, are employed by the peasantry for the trans- port of their farm produce, instead of, as in Persia, being carried on the backs of donkeys, horses, and mules. — (Thomson.) No. 82. MASHAD to MEEV. Kana Gtjshab — 5 farsangs. Dabband — 5 farsangs — 10 farsangs. Kan aba Tajakd — 10 farsangs — 20 „ Chabguiibez — 14 farsangs — 34 „ Uninhabited. Kabtj Kt/chikaga — 5 farsangs — 39 „ In Biver of Zamanabad. Mebo — 12 farsangs — 51 „ (Kinneir.) 721 i t MASHAD TO TABA9. No. 83. MASHAD to MEEV by DARAGAZ. GtJVBSH — Kala ShadIlIjka— Dasht-i-gabd — Kanaka Tajaead— Kalah Mahuja — Saeojb Zamanabad — 10 farsangs — 55 Meev— 12 farsangs — 67 7 farsangs. 8 farsangs — 15 farsangs. 10 farsangs — 25 10 farsangs — 35 10 farsangs — 45 (Kinneir.) No. 84. MASHAD to MEEV by KALAT-I-NADAR. Faemeh— 6 farsangs. Faz — 4 farsangs — 10 farsangs. Dasht-i-gibd — 4 farsangs — 14 „ Kalat — 2 farsangs — 16 „ Altak — 10 farsangs — 26 „ Chach4h — 10 farsangs — 36 „ ChjCh Bahe — 10 farsangs— 46 „ Mbev — 6 farsangs — 52 „ (Kinneir.) No. 85. MASHAD to MERV by SHARAKHS. Masing Pasa Kohjam — 8 farsangs. Akdaeband — 8 farsangs — 16 farsangs. 5 farsangs — 21 „ 12 farsangs — 33 „ 10 farsangs — 43 „ 10 farsangs — 53 „ 6 farsangs — 59 „ Kala Mttzdaean- ZtJVABAD — Shaeakhs — Deh Gijmbad — Sae ChXh — Uninhabited. Meev — 8 farsangs — 67 (Kinneir?) ShaeIpabad Robat Sijfed ROBAT SANGi T6ebat DtJGHABAD PaizXbad Saedak Bejestan BAEtJN T6n Dasht BnSHEtJGAH Deh Mahamad Tabas No. 86. MASHAD to TABAS. 5 farsangs. 7 farsangs — 12 farsangs. 7 farsangs — 19 „ 6 farsangs — 25 „ 8 farsangs — 33 „ 5 farsangs — 38 „ 7 farsangs — 45 „ 7 farsangs — 52 „ 9 farsangs — 61 „ 4 farsangs — 65 „ 7 farsangs — 72 „ 7 farsangs — 79 „ 10 farsangs — 89 „ 10 farsangs — 99 „ 722 (JRnnier.) MOGtJ BAY THROUGH LAR TO SHfRAZ. No. 87. MrNAB to KIRMAN by RtTDAN and RITDBAR. 67 hours, 14 stages. (Fob first seven stages vide Route No. 89.) 8. RtfD-i-KHALii,— 6 hours— 34 hours. 9. Jabuft— 5 hours— 39 hours. 10. Pae-i-Godba-i-Sab BIza— 4 hours— 34 hours. 11. Sae-i-Godae— 4 hours — 47 hours. 12. Ratthan — 6 hours — 53 hours. 13. Manh6n — 7 hours — 60 hours. 14. Kibman — 7 hours — 67 hours. This route is travelled by caravans. — (Petty.) No. 88. MrNAB to RUDBAR by RUDAN. 30 farsangs, 28 hours, 7 stages, north north-west. 1. Kaneshue — 6 farsangs, 6 hours. 2. Dilbaz— 4 farsangs — 10 farsangs, 4 hours — 10 hours. Chief village of district of Riidan. 3. Panal — 2 farsangs — 12 farsangs, 2 hours — 12 hours. 4. Godae-i-Shoe — 4 farsangs — 16 farsangs, 4 hours — 16 hours. 5. Ri;d Khaneh-i-Duzde— 4 farsangs — 20 farsangs, 4 hours — 20 hours. 6. Rtjd-Khaneh Bae — 4 farsangs — 24 farsangs, 2 hours — 22 hours. 7. Kehnu — 6 farsangs — 30 farsangs, 6 hours — 28 hours. Chief village of district of Riidbar. No. 89. MOGU' BAY thbough LAR to SHTRAZ. 311 miles, 94 hotws, 17 stages. 1. Maebagh — 18 miles, 6 hours. The road is over undulating ridges and through passes. Water is obtained from springs and wells. No supplies. 2. Rttknabad — 21 miles — 39 miles, 7 hours — 13 hours. The road is first over an undulating plain and then through precipitous passes. Water is obtained from wells and springs. No supplies. 3. Ahl or Ishkanan — 12 miles — 61 miles, 4 hours — 17 hours. The road after quitting the higher tracts, enters open country. Water obtained from wells. Camp in an open desert. Prom this a road branches to a considerable village called Bastei. No supplies. 4. Beeam — 18 miles — 79 miles, 6 hours — 23 hours. The road goes through an open country with one pass over a ridge. Water obtained from wells. Camp in an open desert. No supplies. 5. Fedak — 18 miles — 97 miles, 6 hours — 29 hours. The road is over an open country and low passes. Water obtained from wells. Camp in an open desert. No supplies. 6. Sahea-i-Paskhan — 18 miles — 115 miles, 6 hours — 35 hours. The road goes through an open country. Water is obtained from wells and a small rivulet. Camp in an open desert. No supplies. 7. Lab— 21 miles — 136 miles, 7 hours— 42 hours. The road is over an open country with low passes and slight ridges. The only water is obtained from rain collected in reservoirs or tanks. Its bazaars are tolerably well supplied with the ordinary necessaries of life. Camels are abundant in this district. 723 NISHAPtJB, TO HEBAT. 8. Bebez — 21 miles— 157 miles, 7 hours— 49 hours. The road is over the open country generally, but a few passes over low ridges are met with. Water is procurable from wells and springs. Camp in an open desert. No supplies. 9. BbnabIj — 18 miles— 175 miles, 6 hours— 55 hours. The road is over an open country generally. Water obtained- from wells. Camp in an open desert. No supplies. 10. JtJTAM— 18 miles — 193 miles, 6 hours— 61 hours. The road is over an open country generally. Water obtained from wells. Camp in an open desert. A few supplies procurable. 11. ChXh-talkh— 18 miles— 211 miles, 6 hours— 67 hours. The road generally passes oyer ridges of rock with open spots and stony ground at intervals. Water is obtained from wells. Camp in an open desert. No supplies. 12. Jehbam — 18 miles— 229 miles, 6 hours— 73 hours. The road is stony with some passes over hill ridges. Water is obtained from a spring led by a " kanat" or under ground tunnel. Camp in an open desert near the village. All ordinary supplies of life obtainable. 13. Khaneh Kah-dan — 21 miles — 250 miles, 7 hours — 80 hours. The road is through an open country generally without difficulty. Water from a small stream. Camp in an open desert. No supplies. 14. Khafe— 9 miles— 259 miles, 3 hours— 83 hours. The country in this stage is open. Water is procured from a small stream, wells, and a " kanat". Camp on a desert. Some fruits obtainable here, but no other supplies. 15. IsmaIl-abad — 18 miles— 278 miles. The road is open, but in some places rocky. Water obtained from small stream and kanats. Camp in a desert in a gorge. A few supplies obtainable. 16. MazafeI — 15 miles— 293 miles, 5 hours — 88 hours. • The country is open generally, and the road good. Water from a small stream Camp in a desert. A few supplies. 17. ShJeaz — 18 miles — 311 miles, 6 hours— 94 hours. The country is open generally, and the road good. (Jones.) No. 90. NISHATITR to TEHRAN to DAMGHAN Abbassabad Bijat— lOfarsangs. Maesao— 6 farsangs— 16 farsangs. BiJiisepand— 7 farsangs— 23 Dehnao— 5 farsangs— 28 „ Mehanabad— 10 farsangs — 38 „ Sang-i-Khas— 8 farsangs— 46 „ Jahjaeun— 10 farsangs— 56 „ DehsHJLA— 10 farsangs— 66 „ (Kmneir) No. 91. NISHAPU'R to HERAT. Dehbad — ' \ — Robat BaMAHI— 5 farsangs— 12 farsangs. Deh Faeadan— 7 farsaugs— 19 Deh Khi5sr — The road is along the shore of the Caspian. 5. AflHLABEB — The road crosses the Eargdn Biid at the point where it debouches from the hills, and then enters the bed, crossing and recrossing the stream and ascending and descending. There is then a sharp ascent. The road is uniformly good. 6. Aedabil— 22 miles, 13 hours. The road lies across the valley for some miles and then ascends a subsidiary glen. The ascent is steep, but the road is good ; at 6 miles the top of the ascent is reached ; thence the road winds along the margin of a deep and precipitous ravine for 6 miles to its source. The descent then commences by a very rocky road ; the valley gradually widening till it opens into a plain and reaches a small lake. Passing this, the road ascends a range of rocky hills, and then descending advances over the plain of Ardabil for the remainder of the way. 731 SABZrWAB, TO NISHAPtJK. 7. Nebe— 25 miles. The road goes along a valley with a good deal of cultivation. 8. Sabab — 25 miles. ^tZ^irYl, 1011 ^ f dascends , a ro *y range, then descends by a tedious and :&KS^3££32Sr te some * when taming 8harp up a 9. Naodeh — 10 miles. 10. Tabbez — 40 miles. ^ Zf. g0 1i 0Ver a ? U M? r *£ m ^ es .' wnen tt descends >y a steep and stony path into a deep vaUey, and shortly after it joins the Tehran and Tabrfe road near ■Chaman-i- .augan. (Jfraser.) No. 96. 8ABZIWAE to NISHAPUE. 8 stages, 24 hours. 1. At.tak — i hours. At 1 hour passed the large village of Bedan. Water at 2 hours; at 3 hours passed a small village, and at 3£ hours entered amongst ranges of hills inter- sected by numerous narrow valleys, where small bodies of light cavalry would prove extremely annoying to an enemy. The village of Aliak is situated in a small plain surrounded by hills. Two guns and the Maraga regiment were sent 3 an hour in advance of the main body to-day. Commenced the march at 8 A. u., and completed it at half past 1 p. n. 2. Mishear— 5 hours — 9 hours. Continued between the bills for 2 hours, when the road passes the small village of Kansh , and enters upon an extensive plain, running north-east and south-east, affording a distant prospect of several villages. 3. YorxE — 2| hours — llf hours. Entered again between the hiTU for an hour and half, when the road opens on a small plain, at the north-west extremity of which upon a hill is situated a village. It is walled, but being commanded by adjacent eminences is not capable of defence ; a mile further again entered between the hills through which the road lay to the village of Toune, near which the camp was pitched. The situation is in a small valley, through which a stream winds, the water of which is slightly hitter. The march occupied from 8 a. m. till half past 12 P. M., including a halt of J an hour. 4. Hajiabad— 3 hours — 14$ hours. Boute for $ an hour over hills, when it enters a narrow plain hounded on each side by high mountains and mostly covered with grass and under- wood. A stream winds through it At 2 hours the plain narrows considerably, so as almost to form a defile, and continues so to where the troops encamped near the village of Hajiabad. The troops commenced the march at 9 A. m., reaching the camp at 2 p. m. Halted an hour. 6. SraTAX JIetdak— 1 hour — 15 hours. TTp a narrow plain covered with grass ; the march occupied an hour and a half, the whole setting out at the same time. The camp was pitched about 2 miles west south-west of the fort of Sultan Meydan, from which it was separated by a range of hills. 6. BorBGB — 2 hours— 17 hours. The road to-day lay over an uneven plain interspersed with villages. Bourge is a small village and, with several others in view, is under the government of Ismael Beg (the chief who defended Sultan Meydan). 7. Gr/EBT Balla — 5 hours— 22 hours. Two hours along a plain mostly overgrown with grass, well watered, and affording a prospect of several villages. Camp near two villages called Guert Balla and Robat. The famous turquoise mines are situated about 12 miles north-east of the village of Bourge. 732 SARI TO RESHT. NiSHAptfa — 2 hours— 24 hours. Road along the plain. I have now traversed the greater part of Persia, but in no part have I beheld so many villages within the eye's range as here presented themselves to view. The land adjacent to the road during the whole way is laid in corn-fields. At about 2 miles from the town entered between gardens, which continues to within a short distance of the walls. Nishapiir is about 2 miles in circumference, in- cluding an ark (or inner fort) which presents a formidable appearance from the outside, but contains little more than a heap of ruins. The town is in a decayed state, and the bazaars very indifferent. This place is celebrated for its black lamb skins, such as Persian caps are made of ; also for its fur coats and cotton manufac- tures. Turquoises are to be had, but very few good ones. No. 97. SAEI to RESHT. 10 stages, 228 miles. 1. Babfaeosh — 30 miles. The road goes along the causeway, or rather near it, for it is so broken that travellers have to go into the fields at the side. At 18 miles pass Aliabad ; at 22 miles cross the Talar. 2. Amoi, — 22 miles — 52 miles. The road lies along the causeway, but has to leave it very frequently and go through the fields at the side. The country is open, but much intersected with water-courses. Before reaching Amol, cross the Haraz river. 3. Izatdeh — 12 miles — 64 miles. The road goes through a succession of thick forests to the Caspian. 4. Aliabad — 22 miles — 86 miles. The road is entirely along the beach of the Caspian. 5. Nao-dbh — 24 miles— 110 miles. The road is entirely along the shores of the Caspian. The hills approach so close to the sea that only a strip of about f mile intervenes. At 10 miles cross the Harirud, and at 19 miles the Chaliis river and another. 6. Towab— 22 miles— 132 miles. The road still continues along the sea. At about 14 miles cross the Nurshta, also several other streams at different distances. 7. Ab-i-gaem — 19 miles — 151 miles. The road still continues along the shore. At 6 miles cross the Mazar ; at 9 miles the Sherirud, where there are dangerous quicksands. 8. Rt/d-i-sae — 27 miles — 178 miles. The road goes along the shore. At 3 miles cross a small stream, the boundary between Ghilan and Mazandaran. The hills then recede. At — miles cross the Pul-i-riid by a very dangerous ford. 9. Lahaxak — 22 miles — 200 miles. Cross the Naorud and Kianid at starting. At 3* miles pass the large village of Zemujan, and cross a small stream by a ricketty bridge. Cross also the river Shalmon. The road is very difficult, over the remains of the causeway and through a dense jungle. 10. Eesht— 28 miles — 228 miles. The first part of the road is through a jungle of wild pomegranate ; then for nearly 12 miles through a succession of mulberry plantations to the Sufe'd Eud, which is crossed by a very dangerous ferry. — ( Fraser.) 733 shIrAz to behbahan. No. 98. SEHNAH to HAMADAN. 4 stages, 89 miles. 1. Ghtjlam — 23 miles. At 1 mile pass Sehnah river. For 5 miles there are several streams of water close to the road and detached portions of cultivation. The road runs along the side of the hills, rough and uneven, and to the south-east a small valley with rivulets of excellent water and finely cultivated. At 11 miles, village on Bahramabad, J mile on right, and Hillesabad 2 miles on left. At 13 miles enter plain of Kastud and continue on it the whole way. 2. Kobba — 23 miles— 46 miles. The road goes over the same plain. At 2 miles a village with small stream and cul- tivation ; at 4 miles a small stream, good water ; at 11 miles village of Aurcalta, with cultivation. At 12 miles ruins of town of Chapogli between two streams of fine water ; thence to Korba no cultivation near the road, but abundance in the plain and towards the hills. 3. Hamakasar — 23 miles — 69 miles. At 4 miles, village of Sangravin 2 miles on right. The first 11 miles over the same plain. At 10 miles village of Duza on small stream. At 13 miles ruins of a city near a stream. At 16 miles, small village at foot of small range of hill, over which the road goes for the remaining 7 miles. 4. Hamadan — 20 miles — 89 miles. At 6 miles enter plain of Hamadan, covered with cultivation, gardens, and villages. At 7 miles pass village of Sahalabad and cross bed of river. The last 6 miles go through gardens, crossing a multitude of little streams and canals. — (JTinneir.) No. 99. SHTEAZ to BEHBAHAN. 128 miles, 35 hours, 10 stages. 1. Gtjtam— 15 miles, 4 hours N. W. . . The road is good over open ground. Encamp near a caravanserai on bare plain. * uel, grain, cattle plentiful ; water procurable. 2. SHOT— 12 miles-27 miles, 3 hours-7 hours N. W. Fuel, grain, cattle, water plentiful, last from springs and kanats. 3. TANa-i-Bm>iAjr-12 miles-39 miles, 3 hours— 10 hours N. W. Water from a rivulet. 4. Basinjun— 21 miles— 50 miles, 5 hours-15 hours N.-W. „.»«., v, a Avfflaee of 100 inhabitants. The road ascends and winds over ^hiUs called Shakr-ab and Sar-^zor. Encamp at base of Kala SafeU Grain, sheep, fuel and water abundant. fi Pahlian— 12 miles— 62 miles, 3 hours— 18 hours W. Thfroad is strong but over open ground. Gram, fuel, sheep and water abundant. Ve valley of Sar-ab-i-Siah is divided from that of Fahhyan by a wall about i" nule in length built from one side of the mountain to the other. A pass 4 or 5 4 -i v Wth is crossed on this march, which is so steep in one place that mules have to be iad!n nCeva not so difficult as the Kotal-i-Pir-Zan on the Bushahr „ n , Ot.tt_.19 miles— 74 miles, 3 hours— 21 hours W. N. W. 6 - SA ^f P ' S7oviCen ground winding round the base of fee hills. Water procurabk fronTa^malsS, 'situated on a beautiful valley 15 miles long and 4 miles broad, watered by many rivers. www 7. r^Vj^^tS^^toTZFiZ-U. of the hills. Supplies in ^aU^tS prtuXand in largest be collected from the hills. 734 SHfRAZ TO BUSHAHU. 8. Dagambezun — 18 miles — 104 miles, 3 hours — 29 hours S. W. The road is over open ground but on a narrow vale winding round the base of the hills. Supplies in small quantities procurable and in large might be collected from the hills. 9. Khaibabad— 15 miles — 119 miles, 4 hours — 33 hours N. W. For 4 miles the road goes over a plain surrounded by lofty mountains, it then ascends and goes among rugged hills for 9 miles after which it is excellent. Water is procur- able from a stream and grain in small quantities, also some sheep and asses. This village is on the banks of the Tab here 20 feet broad, 3 feet deep, with remarkably fine water. 10. Bebahan— 9 miles — 128 miles, 2 hours— 35 hours N. W. The road goes over some uneven ridges, but is good. Water from a small stream. Some grain and sheep procurable.( — Kinneir — Jones). No. 100. SHIRAZ to BUSHAHR. — by the Haft Mtjla Pass and Febozabad. 200 miles 51J hours, 9 stages. 1. Baba Haji — 20 miles— 4 hours S. by E. Road, for first four miles, level and good, over alluvial plain. Then six miles marshy (in May, dry), and covered with salt; the next five miles, gravelly ; remainder alluvial. Skirt the city walls, and continue along a cultivated alluvial plain, in a south- easterly direction ; pass ruins of a brick Imamzadeh off right (this would make a good out-post). The plain is much cut up by lines of kanats. To the 4th mile, cross several water-courses, which irrigate the fields on either side. At 4j miles, pass small walled hamlet on left, and mud enclosure, used as stables. Hence, cross a narrow strip of salt desert, which in wet weather is an almost impassable morass. General breadth, 4 miles. At 10 miles, cross a sluggish, muddy river, flowing through a reedy swamp. It has an old stone bridge, called the " Pool-i-Fassa," with remains of causeway at either extremity. Pass ruins of stone caravanserai on left. Here road diverges ; one to the left front, leads to Fassa and Bandar Abbas ; the other to Firozabacl, round foot of range of low rocky hills, in a southerly direction. On the side and top of first hill, overlooking the bridge, are the remains of an ancient fortress. Cross a stream, which flows along right for some distance, and at 3J miles, pass village of Dehnoo, with trees and gardens off right. Here a cross road turns off to village. At 15 miles, cross stony, undulating ridge, from the range of high hills off left ; after the descent, road diverges ; that to left following nearer to the base of hills, to Baba, Haji, over rockv and gravelly soil. At 16 miles, cross stream, and line of kanat, and pass small village of Tecoon on right. At 19 miles, pass small village on side of hills off left ; hence, level and grassy. There is no village, but a caravanserai on left, an Imamzadeh close by, under some trees. There is a fine, clear stream. Water, pro- curable from a stream, after crossing the bridge ; also, at the villages of Dehnee and Tecoon. At Baba Haji, from a clear stream, plentiful and good. Supplies, none ; must be brought from SMraz. 2. Kowab— 16 miles S. by E. — 36 miles, 3f hours — 7f hours. Road level and good except over the rocky ridge, near the serai, which extends for about two miles over boulders and bad ground impassable for wheeled carriages. Soil gen- erally alluvial. Soon after leaving the caravanserai, is a rocky ridge running down across the road from a low spur off left. Here are two roads ; one to right front, avoiding the spur, and circling round, crosses a cultivated valley, and leads direct to Kowar, and is 18 miles. The other goes over the ridge, up the valley, which is full of cultivation, and rich pastures, with numerous villages and encampments of Elyats. At 6 miles, a road comes in from right rear. At 8^ miles, pass small village, under high hills, off left. At 10 miles, a road, leading to Jehrum, con- 735 SHfltiz TO BTJSHAHK. tinues to left front, whilst that to Kowar turns off to right. At 10j miles, mod ruins on right, and at 11£ miles, small village of Chagha on left, and a ruined fort on right. Ford deep oanal (banks rivetted with masonry) which flows along right, At about 16 miles, pass a village, amid trees, off right, and a small clear stream! leading down to several other small villages with cultivation and trees off light. Hence a gentle ascent towards a range of high hills, under which is situate the small ruined caravanserai of Kow&r. Euins of mill on right. Ford rapid, torrent from right ; a little higher up, there is a bridge over this torrent. There is good encamping ground near the water, and some fine trees about the caravanserai. The nearest village is about three miles off. Water procurable from a canal at 11J miles, and a stream at 16 miles, at stage, from a fine torrent, plentiful and good. Supplies none. 3. Khajai— 19 miles S. E. by S— 55 miles, 4f hours— 12£ hours. Road undulating from the Kowar bridge to the Tung-i-Kowar. Very stony and diffi- cult in the pass. From 9th to 13th mile, undulating, and much intersected by streams. The descent of the " Tung-i-Zunjiran" is most difficult and dangerous over slippery boulders, in deep water. From Zunjiran, good. Leave encamping ground near caravanserai, and descend gradually over an alluvial tract of country, much inter- sected by water courses and kanats, to the bed of the Kowar river, which is reached at f of a mile. Cross river by an old bridge (stone and brick) practicable for artil- lery with careful driving. River, deep, rapid, and unfordable, flowing from right. Thence, short, steep ascent over rocky ridge, whence traverse extensive tract of rugged, undulating country, until the commencement of the pass ; called Tung-i- Kowar, which is reached at 4 miles. Commence ascent through pass ; at first tolerably open and level, but very stony through low scattered jungle. Reach top of pass at 65 miles ; the last portion of ascent very rugged and difficult. Thence, steep and rugged descent into small undulating valley, partially cultivated. The pass is practicable for field artillery well handled, but the heights cannot be crowned. At 8 miles, a road turns off to right (which is said to be practicable for guns), and avoids the " Tung-i-Zunjiran" by making a detour of about 4 miles, and crossing the bills by a rugged, though easier, defile, enters the valley of Khajai towards its southern end, and reaches Firozabad by the ruins in the valley called " Deh-i- Shah," where is a lofty minaret of stones and other extensive remains of an ancient city. Pass ruins of old stone caravanserai. At 9 miles, small fort on left, cross stream. Thence, very rugged and undulating tract of country, with low hills on both sides. At 13 miles, enter a narrow and difficult defile, called the ■' Tung-i- Zunjeloon," between high, inaccessible rocks, with a torrent roaring down it. There is much jungle here. For a long distance, the road continues in this torrent bed, which is full of enormous boulders and masses of rock, with water three and four feet in depth The horses and mules have often to take a standing leap over a piece of rock which obstructs the passage. Many accidents occur here, and yet this is the road generally taken when going to Firozabad. Soon after entering defile, a fine water-fall is observed off right. At 14 miles, emerge from defile into small open space where stands the little caravanserai of Zunjiran on left, and a small fort on slope of hills off right. Thence undulating descent to sandy and alluvial plain, leavine to left the abovementioned torrent. In the valley are several small villages and cultivation. At 17 miles, village of Zunjiran, with trees and gardens off right. rrhere is space enough for a small force near the caravanserai, at mouth ot defile, and abundance of room off left, near the torrent). At this point, one road to left front leads direct to Firozabad. At 19 miles reach the hamlet of Khajai, situ- ated on the banks of a deep and rapid stream, which turns several mills and waters numerous willow and plane plantations. Jones makes the stage at Zanjiran. Water pVocurable on march from Kowar river and streams in valley. At Khajai, from a stream, plentiful and good. Supplies scarce. .1 Firozabad-16 miles S.-71 miles ; 4* miles— 16f miles, 4 hours 15 minutes. b iC!f<™d except through the defile of Fierozkoon and the pass of Firozabad; the w^imSticable for artillery, but passable for mountain guns on mules. After [ l^ P 5£ torrent in the pass becomes unfordable. General direction south Kr Lelve encamping ground in sandy plain, near banks of river, and proceed J 736 SHlRAZ TO BUSHAHIt. in southerly direction, along plain, to rejoin the direct road, which falls in at 2£ miles from left rear. Soon after cross small stream, and at 4j miles, ford deep stream from left. Hence gradual but rocky ascent towards mouth of defile. At 6£ miles, pass stone ruins on right, cross torrent, and at six miles, enter the defile, ' which is simply a cleft in the rock. The defile is short, but rugged and difficult and opens into a small valley called Firozkoon, with a little fort on the bank of torrent off right, of the same name. At 7 J miles enter the main pass leading to the plain of Firozabad. This pass is very difficult throughout. A rapid torrent, three feet in depth, occupies the greater portion of the roadway, which is much obstructed by masses of detached rock and slippery boulders. Extensive stone ruins on summit of rocks, overhanging left, at half an hour after entering pass ; and further ruins, also on left, at one hour and ten minutes after entering pass. These are called, respectively, " Nukara-khana of Eoostum" and the "Fort of Eoostum." At one hour and twenty minutes, after entering the pass, may be seen the remains of six figures, in bas-relief, on right. At 11J miles, emerge from pass, and cross by small trunk bridge a deep canal. Presently, the plain of Firozabad opens out, covered with green pastures, and numerous small villages. At 12j miles, cross low ridge, and pass mass of ancient stone ruin off right, on right bank of tor- rent, which flows down the pass. Proceed across grassy plain, pass village of Shilak off right, and gardens and ruins of a town (Deh-i-Shah) with a lofty minaret be- yond, about two miles off same side. Pass several gardens off right, and encamp on western side of the town of Firozabad. The town is surrounded by a mud wall with towers, and a small ditch, but is incapable of offering any resistance to an army. It is commanded by a range of low hills on eastern side. The town is small, but is surrounded by numerous villages and hamlets, which all enjoy the same general name. The valley is fertile and well watered, and being on an elevated plateau, has a good climate, and is, in every way, eligible for a cantonment. From Firozabad there is a mule track north-west to Novjtin. Water plentiful throughout the march, from the torrent flowing off right. At Firozabad, from numerous streams. Supplies plentiful, of every kind. Fubrashbttnd — 38 miles north-west — 109 miles, 10£ hours — 27J- hours. Road, level and good, across plain of Feerozabad, for first 10 miles ; then undulating and very rugged over a succession of ridges and defiles ; the most difficult between 20 and 26 miles. From 29th to end of march, road improves, though still rocky in places. Direction to the bund at 28 miles west by north, then west. Leave encamping ground, near garden, outside town of Feerozabad, and proceed along the valley, in a direction west by north, towards the minarets and ruins, called " Deh-i-Shah". At 1 mile, pass two small villages, with trees and gardens, on right and left. A road here, leading to Dushtee, turns off to left. At 2 miles, pass lofty stone minaret on right, and other extensive ruins on both sides. Passing through rich cultivation, at 2j miles, ford deep river from right. At 4 miles, small village of Ahmedabad, with trees, &c, on right. At 5 miles, three isolated trees on right. At 10 miles, cross two streams of good water, and pass through thick, low jungle, extending to the foot of a range of high rocky hills. At 11 miles rocky ascent towards the mouth of pass, which is entered at 12 miles. Steep rugged_ ascent to top of ridge, which is crossed at 13g miles. The heights here are very precipitous, and cannot be crowned. Hence, long rugged descent with scattered jungle on both sides. At 16i miles, emerge from pass, and enter wild undulating valley, cross two dry beds of torrents, and ascend gradually to a difficult defile, which is entered at 20th mile. At 22 miles, defile opens partially ; cross a stream, and pass ruined stone caravanserai on left. At 26 miles, emerge into very wild rugged tract of country, covered with scattered jungle, and surrounded by rocky hills. Proceed towards another pass, in a range of high rocky mountains, immediately in front. At 28 miles, pass becomes narrower, and here the remains of a massive stone wall, called the " Bund-i-Furrash", stretch across the mouth of pass. Hence, steep descent into plain of Farrashbund, road following base of mountains off right. A few trees, at intervals, on either side. At 29| miles, cross deep ravine, thence circling round a succession of rugged spurs. At 33 miles pass low rocky hillock on left, with ruins of fort on it. At 35 5 miles, trees and well on left. At 37J miles, ruins of minarets on left. Encamp in plain, outside village of Farrashbund is situate under a rocky spur in a sandy barren plain, with a few 737 4 W SHfltlz TO BXISHAHR. palm trees. The village is surrounded by a high mud wall with towers, but ia incapable of resistance. From Farrashbund there is a good caravan route to Nuvjan, north. Between Dasht-i-Siah and Feerozabad the Kongun road falls in, and is a better road for guns. Water at 2J miles procurable from river. At 10 miles from several streams. At 22nd mile from stream near caravanserai in basin of hills. At 35g miles, from well. At Furrashbund from wells plentiful, but slightly brackish ; supplies scarce. 6. Bushkas — 33 miles north-west by north — 142 miles, 8 hours — 35? hours. Road good for first 6 miles ; thence to 12 miles undulating and difficult. From 10 to Hi miles impracticable for carriages. The rest of the march level with occasional undulations. Soil, sandy and alluvial. Leave encamping ground outside village of Furrashbund, and proceed across sandy desert plain towards defile. At 3 miles cross deep, dry ravine. At 6 miles, country becomes undulating, and, shortly after, a road practicable for wheeled vehicles turns off to left front, and rejoins about 25th mile. At 7 miles, enter defile in low hills. At 8 miles commence ascent, which, at 10 miles, becomes very rocky and difficult. Cross a brackish stream, and at 11 miles, reach top of pass. Then descend ; the first part rugged among low rocky hillocks. At 15 miles, pass small spring and stream on left, and at 16 miles, cross small stream ; all brackish. Then cross tract of wild, undulating country ; and at 16J miles, a remarkable isolated rock on right, and a conical hill on left. Cross dry bed of stream, and proceed across level, grassy, tract, with scattered shrubs and small trees. At 23 miles, cross deep, dry bed of river, and shortly afterwards pass, on right, a remarkable, isolated, scarped rock. Thence gently undulating descent along the foot of a range of low hills off right. At 25 miles, a road comes in on left rear, said to be a cart-track from Furrashbund, continue along valley. At 27 miles, cross deep, dry ravine from hills off right, and at 29 miles, an TirumTjarUh off left Xo more landmarks till reaching Booshgoon, which consists of a small areolar rand fort, on a high mound, surrounded by shepherds' huts, and a tope of palm trees about J mile off The fort can be entered by one gateway ohIt, which is approached by steep road, round the side of the mound, on which the "fort is built. "Within it, resides the chief of the district. From Bushkan, there is a muk track south-west to Khawiz, and thence to Ahram, north-east, another to Dehrd north, and a third to Xuvjan, north-east, while a third goes south to Cbenir. Water at 10, 15, and 16 miles, from streams, brackish, but drinlniUg. At fwm pmMrf, from wells, in grove of palm trees, indifferent. Supplies none. 7, liuMi- 20 miles north-west by west-162 miles, Si hours— 40% hours. Tk&Z level and eood for first 5 miles, then rather difficult in defile ; thence to end of r^4 ^L&fl fa the most part sand and gravel. Direction for 18 nines, newest by north. Leave encamping ground, and at 1* miles a road turns ^rieht frant, leading to Dehroot (about 16 miles oft^. At 4| miles, a road over £ ^TtainTto Kuttx M Hajee Sella, turns off to left front This is said te belracticable for mules only. At 5 miles cross dry bed of torrent, and commence I^t P rftow defile with scattered jungle on both sides. At 6£ miles reach top ; fk^W undulating descent in low hills, which soon open out into two ranges SoX^to ^all valley ; descend the whole length of valley, and at 13 n^c^smaultream. At 14 miles a tower on brackish stream, which flows i ^tt-Tlaree garden and plantation of palm tress also on right. At 16 r ™ lowrakj ndge, and dry bed of torrent, with scattered trees and r^ ™"^1 sHeT At lof miles a stone ruin on mound to left. At 17 miles a H~ w/tomnl At 18 miles short ascent, and cross rugged rocky ridge, from kJ- off left, whfch here cross the vallev. Thence, gradual descent round slopes of M ™, lettinto another small valley. Encamp in a date grove, near a well of ^r^liinrtv brackish), about i mile from village, which is merely a mudenc toe l .lSl£ Sherds' huts. From Kalamathere are caravan routes south-east surrounded by s ^P? e ^ ■ ^ mule t^g nortn to Owpa. Ananstan and ^^'i-eSto D7h™ ence a footpath to Newjun and a mule trackto Suk east north-east to ue^ aUe ^ ^^ gtreams m vaUev . A t SfiS, fSm wells, brackish and scarce. Supplies none. 738 SHlliiz TO BUSHAHR. 8. Chaeotah— 38 miles north north-west and west south-west — 200 miies, 11 hours — 51J hours. Eoad very rugged and difficult, until arrival at foot of last descent into plain of Bushir. The "Huft Moolla" pass is practicable for light artillery, but at great risk to material. The low ranges, on both sides, can be crowned almost the whole way. Prom 29 to 38 miles, level, sandy road. Leave encamping ground in date grove, and proceed along valley in north-westerly direction. Soon after starting the road to Bushire, vid Ahrem, turns off to left front. At 2 miles, road crosses dry bed of torrent, which, farther on, is used as the roadway in the pass. At 4| miles, enter a defile in range of low hills ; commence gradual ascent, and at about 6 miles, enter the pass of the "Huft Moolla," which is here very narrow, rocky, and difficult. Continue up the pass between lofty, precipitous mountains, and at 74 miles, cross very steep, rocky ridge. Thence rugged and undulating ascent through pass, occasionally up the bed of the torrent ; sometimes at the side of it. The ranges of lower heights, on both sides, can be crowned, but the mountain ranges beyond which are separated from the lower heights by deep, impracticable ravines, are precipitous, and mostly inaccessible. At 8 miles, cross a steep ridge ; continue irregular rocky ascent, winding along the dry torrents bed, and occasionally crossing ravines. At 14 miles, pass stagnant pool of brackish water from a small spring under high rocks on right, called " Kinar-i-Durwazeh." Here the pass opens a little, and the rocks on both sides, can be crowned. At 16 miles, pass be- comes very narrow, between high cliffs of the main mountain range, which cannot be crowned. At 20 miles, cross pool of brackish water, and ascend steep ridge, about a mile in extent ; after which, cross deep marshy pool in bed of torrent, full of high reeds and vegetation. Hence, to 22nd miles very rugged, with two short, steep as- cents, the last of which reaches top of pass at 22nd. mile. At this point, a fine view of the plain of Bushire is obtained. A little farther on, three roads branch off into the plain. That to right, along lower slopes of sand hills, to Sirkerreh (6 miles) and Borasjoon (10 miles). The centre leads to Namezek (2 miles). The left road, over a sandy plain, leads to Bushire. At 29 miles, pass small mud hamlet of Kashan, on right, and ruins of mud fort, a little farther on left. Presently, scanty cultivation, and at 30^ miles, village of Semel on right, with a few trees and wells of brackish water. In summer, this village is almost deserted; but in winter, nomads dwell here. From Semel there is a road south to Abad. Cross tract of barren, undulating country, interspersed with low sand hills, and at 32 miles, pass through thick grove of baubool trees and brushwood, with a stone ziarut, on mound on left. At 34 miles, ravines, in deep sand, which extend for 2 miles. Encamp near some wells of brackish water, about f mile to north of Chakotah, which is surrounded by a high mud wall and towers. It could make strong resistance against musketry. There are several date groves. "Water, after rain or snow, a brackish stream trickles down the slopes, and forms pools at intervals. There is also brackish water to be found at Nemizek, Kashan, and Semel. Supplies none ; must be procured from Bushire. 9. BtJsHAHE — 26 miles — 225 miles, 5J hours — 57 hours south-west. Boad first two miles level over gravelly plain, then, sandy plain to edge of Masheela, which is soft mud, covered with saline deposit. When very wet, a path to left must be followed. Ordinary breadth of swamp, 8 miles. A halt can be made at Nanezak or Semel. Prom Chakuta, a road goes east to Abad, thence south to Ahram, or over the Ahram Hills east to the Haft Miila or on by Owha, Anaristan to Siik. Leave encamping ground near wells, and proceed across gravelly plain, in south- easterly direction. At If miles, cross deep ravine, thence traverse sandy desert plain, without landmarks, until arrival at small village of Chegadduk, consisting of a small mud fort and a few date trees. At 8 miles, leave said fort to left, and march upon north-west corner of Masheela or Swamp, which extends from the Bushire Creek inland for many miles, and at spring tides, or after heavy rain, is scarcely passable. At 14 miles, commence the crossing of Masheela. The town of Bushire now comes in view. At 17 miles, the road leading from Ahram comes in from left rear. At 22 miles, the marsh terminates, then a rocky ridge is crossed, when the road continues over undulating plain with low sandy hills to Bushire. Water, after rain, procurable from bed of river at If miles, slightly brackish. At Chagadduk, from wells. The only drinkable water near Bushire is brought from the " Baminee" well, 4 miles distant. Supplies procurable of every kind. — (Taylor — Hardy.) 739 SHfRAZ TO BUSHAHK. No. "101. SMRAZ to BUSHAHR, md KAZIEUN. 167 miles, 44 hours, 9 stages. 1. Khana-Zanian — 26 miles west, 6 hours. Eoad bad, being covered with stones and cut up with water-courses. _ The centre part undulating, stony and broken ; labor would be requisite to make it practicable for guns. Leave town by " Bagh-i-Shah" gate through a highly cultivated country ; long lines of gardens are seen to the right, at base of mountains, about a mile from road. At 4 miles is the village of Kooshan, containing about 100 houses. The extensive gardens of Musjid Verdeh cover surface of plain to the right, which here has a breadth of about 4 miles ; a high mountain on left called Moollah Sirdeh. Prom Kooshan road ascends gradually across a stony plain to Kinarehgah, a ruined serai, 8 miles from Shiraz ; here the mountains on either side close in, and road crossing a mountain torrent by a brick bridge enters a hilly broken country ; constant ascent for about two hours. The hills which command the road in several places are well covered with bushes and shrubs. At 22 miles road approaches left bank of Karahach river, with broad jungly bed and fine stream of water. Steep ascents and descents over a very broken country, the road keeping along or near bank of river. At Khana-Zuneeoon is a ruined serai, and small village of about a dozen houses, which are built a few hundred yards from the junction of a fine stream with the Karahach river and on the left bank of it. The small plain in which Khana-Zuneeoon is situated is mostly cultivated and enclosed on every side by low hills. From 5,000 to 8,000 men might easily encamp in the plain and along the banks of the river, the bed of which is broad and full of jungle. Owing to its great attitude, this place enjoys a fine climate throughout the year. Two days previous to our arrival in May, there had been ice in a well near, or in the village. Water plentiful and good from the Karahach river. Supplies scarce. 2. Miyan-i-kotul — 23 miles west — 49 miles, 6 hours — 12 hours. Eoad for first 6 miles good, though stony in places, near the summit of the Seena Suffied, very bad, over large masses of rock. The Peerzun pass is perfectly im- practicable for artillery, and would require great labor. Heights on right may be crowned, but they are rugged, steep, and woody. Soil alluvial with stones. Conti- nue across plain of Khana-Zaneeoon for 2 miles, and then enter wooded hills at 3j miles, cross to right bank of Karahach river (fordable everywhere at this season), for If miles road skirts the bank, ; or drops into the bed of the rivers. On both sides of the road is thick jungle ; close on the left are low wooded hills. At 6 miles is a ruined guard house, and a little farther on is a small round tower on left, which marks commencement of descent ; this is a commanding spot but surrounded by thick jungle. At lOj- miles gradual descent to a small open space ; to the left, receding from road, is a singular scarped mountain; on the right are low hills. Prom this another short and rapid descent to plain of Dusht-i-Arjoon. At 12 miles, village of Dusht-i-Arjoon, nearly all in ruins at foot of mountains ; there are but few inhabitants, and provisions are scarce. Beyond the village, from the base of a precipi- tous cliff, gush forth several fine springs of water called " Shah Sooltan," which, forming a considerable stream, flow across the plain and enter at some 2 or 3 miles distant a marshy lake that covers nearly all the southern extremity of plain, the length of which is about 12 miles, with an average breadth of from 7 to 8 miles. Pine pasture all about. At 16 miles, small new fort of Musheer, with half a dozen houses inside ; here the road becomes very strong, and at 18 miles, commence ascent of the " Peerzun" pass. Por the first quarter of an hour, the road is extremely rugged and difficult, with sharp zigzags; sides _ of mountains on right and left well wooded; the road does not want generally in breadth, but the worn part is a mere foot-path over a mass of uncleared stones and rocks that have fallen upon it from the right, on which side the mountain is very rugged. The ascent occupies rather more than half an hour. At 20 miles descent begins, and continues for about 3 miles steep and winding. At a quarter of a mile before arriving at the serai, a stone trough and springs of good water. Miyan-i-Kotul has a serai lately built, and in excellent order ; the natural terrace on which it is built is some 200 or 300 yards square ; a 740 SHfniz TO BUSHAHK. fine commanding position. A halt can be made if necessary at Dasht-i-Arjun. Water good from springs. Supplies none ; must be brought from the villages of Kulloonee and Abdoolee, 3 miles off, in the valley below. 3. Kazibttn — 21 miles west— 70 miles, 5£ hours — 17^ hours. Road for 6 miles good, over alluvial soil. In the " Dookhter'' pass the road is good but steep ; latter part good. Continue descent for f hours. At about 3 miles, road enters the small valley of Dusht-beer ; trees here are fine, standing some distance apart, with no undergrowth, for 5 miles along valley. At 7 miles, cultivation is seen on both sides and continues for a mile. At 8 miles, road turns west into a narrow valley, passing covered well, a short descent, and a few houses, beyond which the " Kotul-i-Dookhter" pass begins ; descent very steep but road good. It proceeds down in a succession of zigzags, the precipitous sides of a lofty mountain ; the roadways for the most part perfectly smooth, lime having been used in filling up and levelling the way over rocks and stones. The road has the appearance of having been macadamised, and has a strong stone parapet wall on the outer edge for about two miles (the length of this singular roadway). So perpendicular are the sides of the mountain that a stone might be thrown from the summit on to any part of this way. The whole descent to base of scarped mountain on right occupies about an hour. At 12 miles, a small building at base of mountain on right; here the road enters the plain of Kazerun, and crossing a marshy stream by stone causeway and bridge, passes through an undulating cultivated plain. This stream forms, to the left, a good sized lake, called the " Durya-i-Puiishun," about 3 miles from the road. Some said that its waters were good, others affirmed them to be salt ; no villages or cultivation on its banks ; pastures around it highly spoken of. At rather more than 16 miles is a square watch tower, and a small stream crosses the road; the whole plain here is cultivated. A little after passing the causeway a road branches off in a south direc- tion, and passing through the villages of Bevalak, Gureh, Novjen, Aviz, Parash- band, Boshkan Kalama, Haftmiila, Nanerak, to Barazgun, Nahram. This route was followed by the artillery of the force coming from Shiraz to attack the British at Bushahr in the war of 1856. Kazerun contains some 4,000 inhabitants, of whom about 30 families are Jews. The houses of the town are built of stone. In the valley are fine pasture lands. A road is spoken of from Kazerun to Dusht-i- Arjun, avoiding the Kotul-i-Dukhter and Pirzun; it leaves the plain by the Tung-i-Turkan, and striking north-west, passes the village of Nadun, about half way ; this road is said to be 12 fursukhs (48 miles), the one by the passes 8 fursukhs. The water here is good and plentiful from kanats. Pruit and supplies whether of grain or meat can be procured here in good quantity, but these could not be depended on unless the tribes were friendly. Great numbers of mules can also be procured here. Firewood in any quantity would have to be collected at consider- able trouble from the neighbouring hills. 4. Kumaeij — 19 miles north north-west — 89 miles, 5£ hours — 23 hours. At 7th mile road becomes stony and bad. In the pass, impracticable for guns. Passing through cultivation, the road gradually approaches the mountains on left, the plain here having a breadth of from 8 to 10 miles ; it is undulating, and thinly covered with bushes. At 7 miles pass small village of Dehruz with good water, the greater part in ruins (thence a road to Shahpiir); the road here winds round base of mountains on left. At 9 miles, the village of Saadadad is passed lg miles off right. At 12 miles, a guard and toll house ; here the hills off right approach the road, and the small valley presents a broken appearance of rocky undulations. At 14 miles is a ruined serai, beyond this a slight ascent, and half a mile further on, the road enters the narrow defile of Tang-i-Turkan ; this pass is quite impracticable for artillery, 1| miles being excessively rugged and difficult. Rocky, precipitious heights command the road throughout ; they rise abruptly on both sides, and so continue until road debouches into the well cultivated plain of Kumarij. The houses in the village of the same name are of stone. Water from wells in the village mostly brackish. Corn supplies are plentiful, if the .tribes are friendly ; sheep and cattle scarce. 5. Kanaraikhteh — 12 miles south — 101 miles, 3f hours — 26f hours. Koad generally bad. Prom 2nd to 4th mile execrable, scarcely safe to ride down the pass. The latter portion tolerably good. Very soon after leaving village, ascend and 741 SHfltiz TO BUSHAHE cross some stony hills. At 1J miles arrive at bants of small stream, and enter with it into a very narrow, rugged defile. Road stony and difficult, frequently crossing the stream ; in one place the road is conducted over the stream by a stone archway of peculiar construction. At 2 miles is a toll house, beyond which commences descent of Kotul-i- Koomarij. Eoad very rugged, difficult, narrow, and serpentine, over large masses of stone and rock, for rather more than half an hour. It would he impossible to ride down this with any degree of safety. The mountain rises up precipitously on both sides ; a few determined men here might stop thousands. At 4 miles, road improves and gorge opens out. At 6 miles reach left bank of Khunaberm (Rohilla river), a fine stream some 30 yards wide. Road continues along bank for about 2 miles, having mountains close on left. At 8 miles the road diver- ges ; that to the right, along valley of river, goes to the village of Khisht, distant some 4 miles ; the left hand road, crossing low spurs of mountains, enters the plain of Khisht, and leads to Kinartakhteh, which has a good serai, and near it is a village of nomades. The plain is about 8 or 9 miles long with a breadth of 7 or 8 miles, and has an elevation of 2,000 feet above the sea level. Dates are very extensively cultivated here. Water brackish in the wells ; should be brought from a spring 2 miles off. Supplies none at the stage, but procurable from the plain of Kisht. 6. Dalaki — 14 miles south — 115 miles, 4£ hours — 31J hours. Road good for 3 miles, then horrible for 1 mile. Again bad from 10th to 13th mile. Pelly says this is the worst stage along "the whole route ; there being literally no road, but a mere track worn by constantly passing caravans. There is an excellent site for a battery to defend this pass situated on an elevated ridge of rock, which com- pletely commands the road. Continue along plain for 3 miles, where the descent of the " Kotul-i-Mullu" suddenly commences. For three-fourths of an hour, road is very rugged, a horse with difficulty being able to keep his legs ; the zigzags of the descent are short, and over slippery masses of rock and stone. At half an hour from the com- mencement of the descent is a brackish spring ; on the right a lofty precipitous peak overhangs the road. At 5th mile road improves till 7th mile, where right bank of river Rohilla is reached ; it continues along the bank or in the stony bed. At 8y miles cross to left bank ; the ford, 25 yards wide, is stony. Water in June up to the horse's girths. In winter this is a dangerous river to ford, owing to the strong current. Two old ruined bridges at long intervals are observable. At 10 miles road leaves bed of river, and turning to the left enters a confined, rugged gorge, through which it continues for 3 miles stony and bad, then descending spurs of mountains enter the plain lying along the shores of the Persian Grulf. Dalaki contains about 70 houses with cultivation around. The Rohilla river is 1 mile distant ; its water is brackish. Good encamping ground round the village. It would be difficult to improve the gradients of the zigzags already existing on ac- count of the narrowness of the rocky ridge and the friable nature of the soil. A better line for a road would probably be found by following a ravine to the south- east of the pass. This line would also be less commanded. Water from a small spring near village, limited, sweet. Supplies none at the stage, but procurable in abundance from the surrounding villages, consisting of grain and slaughter cattle. 7. Bttrasjt/n — 14 miles south south-east — 129 miles, 3J hours — 34| hours. Road good all the way, but becomes broken and stony towards Biirasjun. Soil alluvial, intersected by brackish streams. Continue parallel to mountains 2 or 3 miles off. left ; the plain is thinly covered with shrubs and bushes ; on the right is a large tract of marshy ground, caused by naphtha springs, with the smell of which the air is impregnated for some 2 miles. This marsh is quite impracticable for troops, but could be turned by keeping along the hill to the east. At 9 miles road turns from mountains and traverses an undulating country, the hollows of which are thinly wooded. Half way between Biii-azjun and Dalaki, a road branches off towards Nanezakand leads up to the heights of Grisakiin. Water good from wells. Supplies may be procured here in some quantity, as also asses and mules for transport. 8. Chagadak — 22 miles south-west — 151 miles, 5| hours — 40 hours. Road good all the way ; alluvial soil. Bearing south-west. Shortly after leaving village road passes through some hundred yards of date grove. At 5 miles pass village of Khushab on .right ; water brackish. At 11 miles, village of Isawandi off 742 SHfltXz TO DAH.AB. left, and at 17 miles the tolerably large village of Ahmadi on right ; date grove and well of brackish water on left. Hence, over level plain without landmarks. Between Ahmadi and Chagadak a brackish river bed crosses the road and leads up towards the Haftmula pass at Ahram through Chahkuta. Water indifferent. Supplies none. BtisHAHE — 16 miles west — 167 miles, 4 hours— 44 hours. Road level all the way ; good in fine weather ; a swamp in rainy. At 2 miles pass village of Alichangi, where Ouseley's mission halted across a salt swampy marsh ; the road track is firm in fine weather, and makes a long sweep to the south. On the right is an arm of the sea. The marsh is impracticable' every where off the road. Jones says the total distance is only 141 miles. Water brackish ; must be brought from a well 3 miles off. Supplies plentiful. — {Clerk — Taylor — Hardy — Petty.) No. 102. SHIRAZ to DARAB by FASA. 1. Mahltj — 24 miles, 7 hours. The road leaves the city by the Darvaza-i-Sadi, and goes through a plain with several mud villages to Deb. Vazirabad 7 miles, then on 3 $ miles to the Pul-i-Fasa (whence the road to Firozabad); it then crosses a- broad stream to the Rahdari, Barrneh-i- Shor 12 miles from Shiraz. To the north is the Neyriz lake, and after going through a plain for 12 miles more Mahlii is reached. 2. Sebvistan — 24 miles east — 48 miles, 6j hours. At 2J miles the road to Khafr south-east. At 10| miles is the rock called Koh G-urekhtah, near which is a ruined serai ; the plain thus far is called the Kafah-i- Mahlti and thence the Kafah-i-Sarvistan. 3. Deh-i-Tans-i-Kabm: — 23 miles east — 71 miles. The road goes over a plain for 5 miles to a deep bed of a river generally dry, and on 1 mile further crosses a small running stream and enters among hills and rock passing an uneven and stony Kotal. At 12 miles is a caravanserai, and 2 miles further another ; the road then enters a spacious plain, and 5 miles further arrives at the stages. 4. Fasa — 10 miles south south-west and south — 81 miles. The road leads in a direction south south-west along the jstony bed of a river for 6 miles ; the direction then changes to south and continues so to the village. 5. Zahidan — 17 miles south south-east — 98 miles. The road goes by a garden called Rahmatabid, thence it goes south south-east, and at 2 miles crosses a broad deep ditch enclosing a piece of land 1 mile square, through which the road goes. At 5 miles pass vlliage of Sahra rud. At 8 miles, Mahamadabad, and soon after the Koh-i-Nakr&h. At 11 miles the road goes between two steep and rocky mountains crossing the dry bed of a river. Thence it goes over an extensive plain very highly cultivated on some parts. 6. Khasueh — 35 miles south-east and east — 133 miles, 12 hours. The road is rough and bad over a flat barren plain and among rugged stony hills, in many places so narrow as scarcely to admit a loaded mule. No river or water is met with except one well of bad water. At 8 miles the road to Jahnim goes south-east. For 3 miles the road goes through several fine fields of corn and 3| miles crosses the deep channel of a considerable river generally dry. At 4 miles is the village of Miandeh. At 5 miles Nasrabad. It then enteis the vast plain of Karapaegan. At 12 or 13 miles a cemetery of the nomades is passed, and a little beyond it crosses another dry bed of a river, and at 20 miles a third, very deep, but without water. At 26 miles is Chah-i-Kuch, then along a desert, and, lastly, through a hillj country to Khasueh. 7. Dabab — 17 miles north-east — 150 miles. At 1| miles pass Koh-i-Miimeae whence bitumen is procured. At 4 miles pass over a steep hill by a very bad road, and descend on the other side into the Sahra-i Bazdan ; near the village of Bizdan cross a stream which in winter must be consider- able by a bridge of stone, and then enter the Sahra-i-Darab. At 11 miles pass village Juzjan, and at 14 miles the Kalai-Nao-Darab, thence Darab is 3 miles. — (Ouseley) 743 SHfRAZ TO DARAB. No. 103. SHJ'KAZ to DARAB bt FASA. 5 marches, 141J miles. 1. MAHtTLLtf — 23 miles. I quitted the country quarters I had occupied at Ferhadabad, and presently leaving Shiraz behind, proceeded along the plain in the direction indicated in the margin * Prom Janferabad, at the 4th mile from Shiraz, the road crossed a narrow tract of salt kevvir ; and at the 9th mile we passed over the Pul-e-Pessa, a bridge of nine small arches over a trifling stream, which flows from the district of Karabagh, and falls into the neighbouring lake. Prom thence, in a direction of 150°, we skirted hills, which here commenced on our right ; whilst to our left, at about three-fourths of a mile, rose another parallel range, the intermediate space being a salt kevvir and marsh. At the 12th mile we passed close to Bermashur, a hamlet, where the land is cultivated, and is perfectly studded with wells, from which water is drawn by bullocks, for the irrigation of melon-grounds. At 13| miles we entered a passage through low hills, a shoot from the main range on our right, extending northwards about a mile into the plain, and this led us presently to the border of the salt lake, known as the Deriah-e-Nemek. We proceeded along its margin on a bearing of 115° to a turn in it, which occurred at the 15J mile. Clumps of wild myrtle are observed in approaching Mahullu, a village which we reached at the 23rd mile. 2. SeevistXn — 24J miles — &1\ miles. Prom Mahullu. we proceeded on a bearing of 120°, 155°, and 165° ; but my watch having got out of order, I was unable to estimate distances exactly on this march. The south-eastern extremity of the lake runs in a direction of 120°, therefore rendering the north-eastern longer than the south-western side. We crossed one small stream and then left the lake behind us. Our path led us between east and south-east, through a smooth uncultivated plain, extending in a direction east south-east and west north-west. At the 12th mile we reached a ruinous village called Kheirabad. Prom the above-named village we proceeded in a direction generally a little south of east, immediately passing Kennu, a village to our right, thence to Ketta Gumbez, another village ; and by a course a little north of east, passing Bebat a mile to our left, w« reached Biirzii, called also Servistan, the chief village of the district, situated at 7 fursakhs, or 24§ miles from Mahullu. 3. Fasa — 38| miles — 85j miles. Our direction from Burzii was south-east, and presently 115° over a fine carpet of grass mixed with tufts of the green tragacanth plant, which covers this end of the plain. At about the 4th mile we reached a country of low hills and ravines, clothbd with tufts and bushes, and a sprinkling of trees chiefly of the benneh. 1 Distances and bearings. % mile 156» 165 135 160 255 160 Village of U'juwar i mile to left, and Mevnrzabad 1J mile to right. S mile, 160°, Kaleh Mahomed Sherif about | of a mile to left, and Jasperabad close by. Narrow tract of salt Kevvir. li mile. Village of Aly Akbar Kliann, | mile to right, and Ktishkh-e-Maydan 1 mile to left; here the Kevvir terminates. 1 mile. 146°. Village of Alliabad 1 mile to right. ! ... ' 130 I ... ... ... 125 Village Kechi 2 miles to right ; Deh Nfl bore 165° 2 miles off. 1 mile, 125°. Reach Pul-e-FessS, a bridge. mile, 1603 to 140°, skirting hills on our right. lake. miles. 744 120" 115 110 ' b. through hills. 115 and 110°, descend to margin of . 116" , 110 105° and 80° . 105 . 165 . 135 . 120 and 115" , 145 general bearing. . 140 . 146 and 160° . 170 . 160 . 155 to Mohulla. shIrXz to darab. At the 6th mile we passed two unoccupied watch-towers, and from thence our direction varied between 80° and 125° by rises and falls ; after which we commenced an easy, but long, descent over stony ground, generally in a direction south-east, the country and mountains on both sides lightly clothed as before. At about the 12th mile we alighted near the ruins of a caravansary, at a stream of water. We continued the descent, on a bearing of 115° and 110°, and, at the 14th mile, 105°. We passed many flocks of mixed sheep and goats, belonging chiefly to the Baharlii tribe, of which we observed small encampments scattered over the country. We passed two other ruined caravansaries, proceeding, first, by a gradual ascent in a direction south-east for a few miles, and then, by an easy descent by a rough road, still on the same general bearing, and, as we neared the plain of Fessa, meeting more flocks, followed by divisions of the Baharhi tribe, migrating to higher ground. Their beasts of burthen consisted almost entirely of asses. On getting fairly into the plain of Fess^, we proceeded on a bearing of 110°. We reached Fessa, after performing what is called 11 fursacks, or 38J miles, but which, I think, does not exceed 9 fursacks, or 31j miles. 4. Shash Deh — 21 miles — 106| miles. We proceeded at once towards the Kaleh Zehauk, situated at 2 miles south of Pessa. From the mound our path led, for about 1 mile, in a direction south-east, when it altered to 125° for ^ a mile, and we then passed Deh Desteh, situated close by to our right. Thence the bearings were as follows : — 1£ mile ... ... s. e. | „ ... ... 125° If „ ... ... 105° and 115° to Siidabad, and £ a mile beyond to Mahomedabad, two villages, the latter of which, situated on the southern side of the plain. Between the two villages is the bed of a stream, then dry, the direction of which is from north-west to south-east. From thence we rode J a mile, on a bearing of 65°. Thence our bearings were — E. ... i mile. 100° ... i „ toGheasabad. 85 ... f „ 105 ... * „ 95 ... 1 „ to the large village fort of Nubundegran, passing through which we proceeded J a mile on a bearing of 75°. 55 ... J „ 65 ... | „ 80 ... i „ 65 ... i „ 75 ... 2 „ to village of Ghillian. 55 ... 1 „ to foot of hills through which we passed on a bearing of 50°, f mile. Thence \ a mile on a bearing of 45° amongst hills ; crossed little stream flowing south- west ; then 1 mile 60° and 50° to small village fort of Miirdi ; after which, by gentle descent, 35° f a mile, 50° \ a mile, and 60° J a mile, into a valley ; If mile 90° and 80° ; 1 mile 65° and 70°, the valley expanding into a plain ; then 2 miles in general direction, 60° to the village Shish Deh. The distance by the direct road from Fessa is reckoned at 6 fursucks, or 21 miles. Daeab — 35 miles — 141f miles. Our march this day commenced on the following bearings : — 1$ mile ... ... 110° and 120° I 75° 745 4x 70° shIeXz to dakXb. to an encampment of 35 tents of the Karuni. J mile ... ... E. i 3 » to a ruined village ; here discovering that we were on the wrong road, we pro- ceeded — imile ... ... 150° I „ ... ... 45 2 „ ... ... 140 when, having regained the proper route, we proceeded — I mile ... .,. 135° If „ ... ... 125° 1 „ ... ... 100° and 90° i „ ... ... 115° I „ ... ... between 115° and 130° 1 „ ... ... 135°, 120, and 125o I „ ... ... 130o i „ ... ... 140» to another encampment of the Karunis. We proceeded on a hearing of 145° for 1J mile, passing the site of a town, the only remains of which consisted of the foundations of walls, and stones strewn plentifully over it. We then made three-fourths of a mile in a direction of 140? to the small village fort of Darakii. Leaving Darakii, we proceeded three-fourths of a mile on a bearing of 130», when the plain terminated in an uneven valley, in which the benneh- tree, then in leaf, abounds. We made three-fourths of a mile in a direction of 100°, then J a mile by a very difficult road, and through a narrow defile, in a direction between east and north-east, occasionally by short abrupt turns, after which we ascended the hill side on to a better road leading § a mile between east and south- east, which brought us in sight of the plain of Darab. Thence occurred a short, but difficult and dangerous, descent ; then f th mile 260o, and varying from 160° to 90°, f a mile, by an infamous road, where fossil shells and impressions of the same are found. Then § a mile, from 120» to llOo, which brought us fairly into the plain ; 1^ mile, 110°, near high and hold mountains to our left. The plain extends nearly east and west, and on its northern side is extremely stony, and abounds with the kunar-tree and gum-tragacanth plant. The southern side appears to be destitute of trees. Proceeding 1 mile on a bearing of 85°, ^ a mile 105°, and f a mile 90°, we came to more remains of stone buildings covering a considerable space, but only the foundations remain. A good deal of fine turf grows in this part, and a bush with an aromatic leaf, and resembling that of the pepper-tree. Two miles further were made in a direction of 105°, and 2 miles east. We crossed four small streams flowing into the plain from the north-east ; and, quitting for a time the wooded part, proceeded for three-fourths of a mile south- east, passing more an extensive traces of stone habitations, evidently like those already noticed marking the sites of former towns. Here mountains project into the plain from the north, and one of rock-salt is conspicuous from its variety of colouring. At the foot of this mountain issues a diminutive spring of water, which leaves along its course a beautiful incrustation of salt. Three-fourths of a mile further, on a hearing of 110° , brought us to a small stream, 20 paces wide, flowing south, and immediately afterwards to a second. One or two villages, with tall palm-trees, were observed, after which our course led through low jungle of prickly bushes which shelter the Francolin. We made 3 miles further on the above hearing, then east for 4 or 5 miles, passing in this space low hills, project- ing into the plain, when, long after nightfall, we reached some hovels. Again we proceeded for about a mile, and reached the outskirts of Darab, that is, its palm- groves, through which we passed for another mile or more, much wearied with the length of the journey and heat of the weather. The distance from Shish Deh is nominally 10 fursacks, or 35 miles, which is probably correct. — (2L Abbott.) 746 SHfRAZ TO ISPAHAN. No. 104. SHTRAZ to ISFAHAN. As far as Persepolis, vide No. 107. 3. Maten— 31 miles. it 6 miles pass a village on right ; at 7 or 8 miles anothei through which the road goes; £ mile further pass mountain of Istakhi. At 14 miles pass river Bandamir. The road then goes near a mountain on the right for 5J to 6 miles. At 23 miles cross a rivulet. Except near Istakhr the road is good. 4. Anjan — 16 miles. The road goes for 7 miles through a defile bounded by high mountains, then cross a rivulet. At 8 miles pass through village of Imamzada Ishmail. At 9 miles ascend and descend a range, then over a plain with mountains on both sides. The road for the first part is rather rugged and stony, as well as that over the mountain, the rest tolerably good. 5. Aspas — 15 miles. The road is very good through a fine valley, 10 miles broad, the phills on the right being from 1 J to 2 miles from the road. 6. Khashk-i-ztjrd. — 18^ miles. The road on leaving immediately crosses a range of mountains and is very good, in distance about f mile, it then winds along the foot of low hills for 1^ miles to a rivulet which runs towards the plain, which it crosses. It then goes through a plain with hills on both sides, f mile distant. The remainder of the road then runs through one side of a valley, the mountains on the left being about 1 to 2 furlongs distant; those on the right 2 to 3 miles. 7. Shamiran — 18 miles. The road goes on through the same valley. At 5 miles pass a bridge over a stream, which the road then follows for 5 to 6 miles when it crosses the stream. The road is very good till within 2 or 3 miles of the stage where it is stony. 8. Kishlak — 19 miles. The road goes for 5 miles through the same valley, the hills on the right coming near the road. A.t 6 miles pass a village on right, the hills on the right are here 3 to 4 miles distant, those on the left 2 miles. At 65 cross a small rivulet ; at 13 miles another which runs through a ravine, and at 14§ cross a third ravine, on which is a fort and village on and continue along its banks. 9. Isfarjan — 32 miles. The road for 13 miles leads through the same ravine with a rivulet running through it ; then for 1 mile over low hills, and for 14 more over a plain, at the end of which cross a rivulet (the hills in left about 1 mile distant). At 2 miles, more hills on both sides, those on left near the road, those on left £ mile distant. Just before reaching the stage cross a ravine. The road on this stage is throughout tolerably good. Taghtjn — 24 miles. At 10 miles from Isfarjan cross a rivulet and pass a ruined village. At 20 cross another rivulet, and at 21ij a third. The mountains on the left so far vary from 1| to 3 furlongs, from the road. At 22 miles, hills on both sides ; at 23£ the country opens into a plain. The road is generally over uneven and stony ground. Talkun — 19 miles. The road is on the whole tolerably good, but here and there the ground is uneven. For 5 miles is across a plain, it then enters a ravine, whence into another plain. At 10 miles pass a village on the right (hills in the right about 1 J miles, those on the left from 9 to 10 ) ; at 12 miles pass another village on left. KtrMESHAH— 17 miles. 1. The first part of the road is good with mountains on the right. At 6 miles cross a small eminence (hills on right about 8 or 9 miles distant,) then through a fine plain for 2 miles, then pass a village, and about 1 mile further on cross a small rivulet, and i mile a larger one (hills on left, distant 2 miles.) At 1J mile from second stream the road approaches a range on the right, those on the left being about 3 or 4 miles< Thence vide No. 52. ( Webb.) 747 sh!rAz to yezd. No. 105. SHIRAZ TO ISFAHAN BY PERSJBPOLIS AND EKLID. 1. Zargtxn 18 miles, vide No. 52. 2. Takht-i-Jamshid — 16 miles — 34 miles. The road goes over a plain to the Pul-i-Khan, bridge over the Bandamir R. and is a mere foot-path, thence to stage about 10. 3. Setand — 17 miles — 51 miles. 4. Kamin — 17 miles— 68 miles. 5. Mashad-i-Mabghab— 18 miles— 86 miles. 6. Ghazian — 20 miles — 106 miles. The road is extremely bad, crossing three mountain passes. At 12 miles the river of Beni Arus is crossed. 7. Delttnasb — 15 miles— 121 miles. 8. Eklid — 28 miles— 149 miles. 9. Abadbh — 18 miles 167 miles. Thence vide No. 52. (Ouseley.) No. 106. SHTRAZ TO TEZD. 192 Miles, 64 hours, 11 stages. 1. Zabghan— 15 miles, 5 hours. The country is open and road good. "Water is obtained from springs. Supplies, fuel, &c, on a small scale procurable. 2. Kinabeh — 12 miles — 27 miles, 4 hours, 9 hours. The country is open and road good. Small stream with bridge called Pul- i-Kan. Edibles not abundant, but sufficient for small bodies of horse and foot. 3. Siwand — 15 miles — 42 miles, 5 hours, 14 hours. The road is very tortuous but good. Water is obtained from a small stream. Supplies in small quantities are procurable. 4. Mashadimaeghab— 24 miles— 66 miles — 8 hours, 22 hours. The road is open at times, but at others through gorges. Water is obtained from small stream. Supplies, fuel, &c, on a small scale procurable. 5. Khanah Ktjegan — 15 miles — 81 miles — 5 hours, 27 hours. The road goes over mounds, ridges, and on undulating plain. Water is obtained from small stream. Nothing is procurable here. 6. Dbh-bid — 12 miles— 4 hours, 31 hours. The country is undulating and open. Water from springs. Supplies and fuel obtainable. 7. Tang-i-babash — 15 miles, — 108 miles — 5 hours, 86 hours. The country is open and the road good. Water is obtained from springs. Nothing is procurable here. 8. Abr-Koh — 24 miles — 331 miles — 8 hours, 44 hours. The country is open and the road good. Water from springs. Supplies plentiful. 9. AI/I-abad — 5 miles — 156 miles — 52 hours, 8 hours. The country is open and the road good. Water from springs. No supplies. 10. Tapt — 21 miles — 177 miles 7 hours 59 hours. The country is open and the road good. Water from springs. Supplies to be had in small quantities. 11. Yezd — 15 miles — 192 miles — 5 hours, 64 hours. The road is through an open country between ranges of gardens on either side of road. Water is obtained from springs led through kanats. Supplies plentiful. (Jones.) 748 SHUSTAK, TO KIRMANSHAH. No. 107. SHU STAR to KIRMANSHAH. 11 marches. 1. and 2 — vide No. 8. Kirab — 24 miles. North. The road traverses the plain of Dizftil to the west point of Kala-i-Tangawan, and rounding this descends among some very steep ravines to the plain of Kirab. 4. Tang-i-Zardawar — 20 miles. The road crosses a most precipitous range of hills, a spur of the great chain which rises up abruptly behind Kirab and descends into the beautiful glen of Tang-i-Zardawar, to the head of which it then proceeds. 5. Camp near Ab-i-Zal River — 10 hours. The road is a mere rocky path, which leads to the summit of the great spur called Be'-ab after a tedious and difficult ascent of two hours. It then descends gradually for some miles and crosses another spur of the main range, called Koh-i-Anara-riid, to a stream of this name. Beyond this stream a third spur is crossed, called Kal- Aspad, to the bed of the Ab-i-Zal, at 3 miles beyond which in a wooded valley is this stage. 6. Camp near Katun River — 6| hours. The road first crosses a small tributary of the Ab-i-Zal, and then commences the ascent of the range called Koh-i-Gird. This is not quite so difficult as that of the Be'-ab, but still it cannot be done mounted. The descent occupies two hours to the plain of Taijiri, whence to the river of Kayiin is about 7 miles. 7. Khoramabad — The road at once commences the ascent of another range called Koh-i-Haftad PehM. On the summit there is some extent of table-land. The descent is long and wearisome through a thick forest of oak for 3 hours. The road then goes through a richly cultivated district thronged with villages in 5 miles to Khoramabad. Between "the north foot of this hill and Kira.1 no villages are met with on this route. In winter the route from this place to Kirmanshah by Alishtar and Khawah is impracticable from the snow, and the road then goes by the Pul-i-taskan and Hatilan. 8. Rob at — 14 miles north-west. The road traverses an open valley for 10 miles along the course of the right branch of the Khoramabad river, and then for 4 miles goes among low hills. 9. Camp at opening of Khawah Plain — 36 miles north-west. The road goes for 8 miles among low hills richly wooded to the Ab-i-Kashghan, a deep and impetuous stream, divided at this point into a number of narrow branches, which are crossed by rustic bridges of woven boughs. It then con- tinues for 4 miles further among hills and descends into the plain of Alishtar, which it crosses for 20 miles, and then ascend some rising ground and arrives at the low hills at the entrance of the plain of Khawah. 10. Harsin— 36 miles north-west. The road traverses the lower plain of from Khawah for 8 miles and crosses two streams ; it then ascends the high table-land of Khawah (considered the best pasturage in Persia) very gradually for 4 miles. It then crosses this magnificent pasturage, which is intersected throughout by rivulets at every 300 or 400 yards and is broken into knoEs. 11. Kirmanshah. — 36 miles north and west. The road crosses a rocky range of hills for 8 miles, and then descends into the valley of the Garmasab river, which is crossed by a ford, whence it falls into the Hamadan road (vide No. 10) (Bawlinson.) 749 SHtJSTAE TO SHiltAZ. No. 108. SHU STAR to KIRMANSHAH. This route first goes to Dizful, whence it enters the mountains from the plain of Zaar near Dizful by the Kailiin Pass to Khoramabad. The distance to Khdramabad is 6 days. The passes are in some parts precipitous, but easily crossed by loaded mules. This road is usually followed by the Governor of Khirmanshah and caravans from Biirujard and Hamadan. It traverses the country of the Feilli, and is frequently taken by caravans and single travellers, and is generally safe. No. 109. SHUSTAR to MANGASHT. 6 stages, 101 miles. 1 Pichistan — 11 miles south, 33 east. The road crosses the Ab-i-Iargar by a bridge, and then runs along a broad belt of low hills of sandstone and gypsum. 2 Shorash — 10 miles south-east. 21 miles. The road goes over the same description of country as the former stage. The stream at this place is brackish. 3. Shakr-ab— 12 miles south-east. 33 miles. The road crosses the stream at the last stage, and then lays along a valley between sandhills. 4. Khar-i-Shutab-Zar — 12 miles south. 45 miles. The road in this stage deviates to south round a range of very rugged and steep hills called Koh-i-Asmari. 5. Tattlah. — 24 miles south, 30 east. 69 miles. The road skirts the Koh-i-Asmari. 6. Mangasht — 32 miles. 101 miles. The road goes over a broken country, and at 12 miles comes to the Ab-i-Zard ; it then goes for | mile along its bank, and is here extremely difficult and impracticable for artillery. The road then enters the plain of Bagh-i-Malik (whence is the direct road to Ispahan), whence it goes over a very hilly and uneven country for 20 miles to Mangasht. The ascent to the fort is exceed- ingly steep, and as it is scarped all round, to the depth of 150 feet, the only means of access is along a narrow and rocky shoulder, where the scarp lowers to 50 feet, where it may be climbed with some difficulty. (Sawlinson.) No. 110. SHU'STAR to SHrRAZ. 1. Ram Hormaz— 100 miles. The road for the first 10 miles winds through a range of small hills, then enters a plain barren and destitute of water. 2. Dar— A village on the tributary of a river which divides the valley of Ram Hormaz and the lands of the Al Humism from those of the Persian tribe of Albe Courd. 3. Sultanabad— 4 fersakhs. A large village with gardens. 4. Zaezttn — & fersakhs. A village containing 700 to 800 inhabitants. 5. Behbahan — .9 fersakhs. The road is rough and stony. At 10 miles cross a range of hills 2 fersakhs in width, but not high, and passable for artillery. Thence vide No. 24. 750 TABREZ TO EIEVAN. No. 111. TABRIZ to ASLANDUZ. 10 stages. 1. Baeang— E.— 2. Khojeh— E.— The road begins to ascend, but is good till near the summit of the hills over- looking Tabrez, when it becomes rather rugged. It then descends gradually among wild and barren mountains to the Aji Chai, which is crossed by a ford and a bridge close to each other. 3. Shahrek— N. N. E.— The road ascends the whole way, and the march is terminated by a steep rise over a small hill. Water here is brackish. There is a good deal of cultivation on the plain below. 4. Gevenjik— E. K". E.— The road first goes east, then enters among mountains, and descends by the well-watered valley of Ahar Chai. 5. Ahar— E. N. E — 6. Kishlak— E. S. E — The road follows the banks of the Ahar river. 7. Ahmad Beglu.— 20 miles— N. E — The road is first through mountains, and then over a plain in which is the Mashkinchai. 8. Bijah— N. E — 9. Aktapeh— N. N, E. — 10. Aslanditz — N. W. (Morier.) No. 112. TABRIZ to ERIYAN. 8 stages, 219 miles. 1. StjPiANA— 24 miles— N. N. W.— The road is generally good over a flat country, but it crosses at least thirty times a river and some irrigation drains. 2. Marand — 20 miles — N. N. W. — 44 miles. The road is good, crossing some hills and many rivulets. At 9 miles pass ruined caravanserai-i-Tam, then descends into the plain of Marand. 3. Gaegae — 40 miles — H". W. — 84 miles. At 19 miles there is a ruined caravanserai, but no other place between. 4. Jai/fa— 13 miles— N". W— 97 miles. The road in 8 miles reaches the Aras river, here crossed by a ferry ; and hence it goes over a parched and barren country for 3 miles, and then descends by a bad hilly road to Jalfa. 5. NakhshvAn — 27 miles — N. W. — 124 miles. The road in general is very good, but is intersected by many streams. 6. Dudangah — 40 miles— N. W. — 164 miles. The road goes for 2 miles through the ruins of Nakhshvan ,- it then lies over the magnificent plain of Chaman-i Sharur. Morier makes a stage at Hok and another at Narashin. 7. Develtt— 28 miles— N. W.— 192 miles. The road is over a parched and barren plain. Morier went by a road which leaves the main road after the gap of Sharur and keeps to the foot of the hills to Sadrek, where he halted. 751 TABEEZ TO MARAGHA AND SEHNA. 8. Eeivan (Irvan) — 27 miles — N. W. — 219 miles. Morier makes the stage at Akbash, The road goes through an extensive tract of fertile land called Gerni from the river of that name. On the left of the road pass the monastery of Virab. (Ousley — Morier). No. 113. TABRIZ to KHOI by MARAND. 1. Sahalan — 13 miles — N. W — After crossing the long bridge over the Aji Ohai, the road leaves the south road to Khoi. This village is in the midst of cultivation. 2. SofI an — 12 miles — N. "W. — 25 miles. 3. Maband — 17 miles — W. N. W. — 42 miles. The road runs through a narrosv valley, which is in some places very swampy, until it expands into the pasturage of Tain 4. Khoshk Sbeai — W. — The road skirts the plain of Marand. — {Morier.) 5. ZanjIbeh— "West-south-west. 6. Valdian — "West. The road winds through wild and rude mountains. 7. Khoi— The road goes over a continuation of the above mountains until it descends into the vale of Khoi. This is an exceedingly well cultivated and populated spot. No. 114. TABRIZ to MARAGHA and SEHNA. 1 Sard RtfD— 6| miles, south-west. _ The road goes over a plain for 5 miles, when a range of low hills in left. 2 Khosbtj Shah — 11 miles, south-south-west. The road skirts the base of the spurs of Mount Sahand. At 8 miles pass two villages on the left. 3. Deh-Khabgan— 18 miles, south. _ At 1| miles pass a small village on the right. At 4 miles pass villages ol Elkhiji, at 12 miles large village on the left. The road goes about 1 mile from some low hills. 4. Shbbamin— 12 miles, south. _ The road for 6J miles goes over a plain with hills on both sides, then tor 2 miles through denies with defiles on both sides, then for 1 mile through a plain. 5 Chawan — IO5 miles, south. The road goes over a most barren tract of brown mountains for \\ miles through a plain with hills on both sides. Then for 8J miles road is very uneven, and then with low hills 3 mile on left and lake 2 miles on right. 6. Alkoh— 12 miles, east. At 3 miles pass large village of Khormazard. The road is over a very uneven country, winding through small hills. There is abundance of good water here, and supplies are procurable. 8 Galandi — 14 miles. The road goes for \\ miles on the bed of the river of Maragha, then enters an open plain. At 6 miles the Lake of U'rumia is 7 to 8 miles distant. At 11 miles the road winds at the foot of small hills with high mountains 1 mile on the left. 752 TABRIZ TO M6SUL. 9. Baei-18| miles. The road goes for 3£ miles over a plain, when pass village of Jaodur on the right ; it then goes over another plain with low hills on the left and extensive open plain on the right. At 12 miles pass village of Lelan on the right ; at 13 miles goes over a low range of hills, having crossed the dry bed of a river ; then over a level plain with hills on the left, about 2 miles distant, and small plain m the right. 10. Abbas Bolak— 6 miles. At 1 J mile pass on the left village of Mohamabad, then go over a plain, and cross- ing a low hill enter another plain. The river Jaghatu is about half a mile from here. 11. Kizli — 13 miles. The road goes over a plain for 3£ miles with the Jaghatu on the right and mountains on both sides. Then cross in a small range and enter defiles for 4 miles ; then it becomes intricate, winding between low hills ; last ascend a_ hill just before reaching the stages. There are high mountains on both sides. 12. Suekh River— 7 miles. At 3 miles pass on the left village of Guzal Bolak. The road is very uneven with a succession of mountains on both sides. This river divides Azarbrjan from Kurdistan. 13. Kapiian Koh — At 1 mile pass the village of Kaltap. At 9 miles, after a descent, cross a ravine, with a stream running through it, and the village of Karanad £ mile on the right, and Yulkiil f mile on the left. The road is all over an uneven country surrounded by mountains. 14. Khottbattt — 12 miles. At i mile enter a defile of high mountains, and at 2 miles ascend the range along the side ; then from the top there is a small descent to the plain of Khoubatu. 15. Divan Dttea — 15 miles. The road goes for 4 miles over the plain of Khoubatu with hills If miles on the right. At 8 miles pass Kalah Keh £ mile on the left. The road then goes over a plain for 7 miles, then over an easy descent, winding at the foot of low ravine with a stream in it. 16. Zaghah — 12 miles. The road lies along the bank of the ravine named above with low hills on both sides. At 3 miles cross Kizl Ozan river, and at 5 miles Khyviser on right. The road then leads over uneven ground, with a ravine and a succession of low hills on the right, and a range of high mountains i mile on left. 17. Camp near Amaeat — 16 miles. The road lies over an uneven country, with a succession of mountains on both sides. At 8 miles the village of Kalverawah on the right, at 12 miles on the right the village of Thieftula. At 13 miles ascend a small hill. At £ mile from the stage cross the dry bed of a river. 18. Sehna — 14 miles. The road goes over mountains for 4 or 5 miles ; it then descends for 1J mile with high mountains on both sides. At 1LJ mile cross Sehna river. — (Morier.) No. 115. TABREZ to MOSAL through the HAKARI COUNTRY. Vide Mosal to Tabrez in Part V. 753 4y TABEEZ TO M6SCL. No. 116. TABRIZ to MOSUL BY URtJMfA AND ROWUNDIZ AS FAR AS DlLMAN. 12 marches. 1. Gawalan— We rode by U'la and Turmel, to the hills which advance in bold rocks, bearing two castles over the lake of Unimfa, and which are designated Kara Bash, or Black Head. But they have a culminating point westward, which •had still a few patches of snow on its hoary head, and which, rising about a thousand feet above the level of the lake, is called Zendasht Tagh, or Tur Zendasht by the Chaldeans. We crossed this range of hills and stopped in the gardens of the Chaldean village of Gawalan, to the north of _ which is a larger Christian village called Jemalawah by the Chaldean residents, but Jelalabad by the Persians. 2. URtJMIA — Our road lay along the banks of the lake, but at some distance from the water, and over a dry, gravelly, or sandy plain, covered with a species of ononis and mesembryanthemum, amid which, when the soil was slightly saline, predominated a species of salsola. Springs of water were frequent at the foot of the hills, the waters being generally brackish. ,3. ULXDf— Leaving Uremia we crossed the river of Suhur by a bridge of five arches, and crossing a low range of hills entered upon a very fertile low rice country, which extended nearly to the banks of the lake, and to the south gradually be- came a marsh, which must be impassable at certain seasons of the year. We had some difficulty in fording the Burrandiiz, also a goodly stream, beyond which we stopped for the night on the marsh near the fortified farm of Uladi. This plain was everywhere covered with large herds of horses and cattle, and flocks of sheep and goats. There were also many villages and every appearance of the same prosperity and fertility met with all along the east side of the same mountains, which on the western side are, generally speaking, so sterile and unproductive. 4. USHNAE — Passing the villages of Thomator (Christian) and that of Char, each with its mud fort, we entered upon the lulls which now separated us from the plain of Ushnae, or Shino as it is generally called. We entered by a ravine, about 1| mile up which we found the village of Kasinli, the hills around rising barely 800 feet above the valley. At mid-day, having travelled 6 hours, we came to an upland of sienitic rocks, having traversed which we descended upon the plain of Ushnae, and passing the Christian village of Cham, we rode through Ushnae without stopping, and bivouacked in a field beyond the town. 5. Camp— Waiting for the guard, we did not get off till afternoon, when, fording the Gader, we passed by Sinkar, and then, instead of proceeding direct to the pass of Keli-Shin, we turned to the west, to the summer quarters of the Seruji Kurds, where our Zerza guards had to transfer us into the hands of the Kurd Beg. 6. JepfttlI — We started at an early hour for the ascent of the Keli-Shin, which was performed on foot. We then proceeded on our journey, and crossing the first range, gained a country with less snow and more wood, and with many flocks of sheep and goats feeding on the mountain sides. W e soon, however, came to another range, with glaciers, the slope of which created some anxiety. We passed three of these, however, in safety ; it was more fearful to look at another passing over them than to venture oneself ; a single slip would infalliably have hurried a person to a vast depth. When we gained the next crest, the peak of Rowandiz was only distant from us two more summits and crests, and was easily attainable. 754 TABEiZ TO MOSUL. We now continued our ascent of the mountain. Vast piles of snow, accumu- lated by the drift winds to a depth of many hundred feet, were only broken through by bold and sharp rocky pinnacles of grey and green quartz, or broke off abruptly over dark precipices of brown and blue schists, shivering away in silvery leaflets, and shaking in the breeze more like fragments of the ice-heap than of the mountain. The Aretia alpina, and here and there a saxifrage, were the only remaining specimens of vegetation ; on some shel- tered moist spots grew, in one mass, Polytrichum septentrionale. Pro- ceeding over the first mountain, we had a descent to make through a ravine filled with snow, then another ascent steep and rocky, and another glacier, till hope deferred made the heart sick. At length we came to a precipice formed by a vast dyke of sienites, which crossed the whole crest, and constituted the summit of the peak of Rowandiz, or Sheikhiwa, as it is called by the Kurds. We were now obliged to climb, but perseverance soon brought us to the top, from whence we enjoyed a view of almost all northern Kurdistan, favoured as we were by an uncommonly clear and fine day ; nothing but the haze produced by the intense heat of the plain pre- vented our seeing M6sul. After half-runnnig, half-sliding, we found ourselves in an hour comfortably seated just below the inferior Emits of snow where a fire had been kindled, and breakfast was prepared to reward us for our toil. On leaving this, we kept rounding the declivities of the mountain, which pre- sented diallage rocks, talc schists, red and brown schists, and conglomerates. The first rivulet we met with came from a small lake at the south-west side of the mountain, which has apparently, but a few years ago, broken its boundaries, and scattered over the valley a vast accumulation of rocks, boulders, and pebbles. We next passed a torrent 12 feet by 2 in depth, a little further one of 11 feet by If, and then another 14 feet by If. We continued to descend rapidly till we reached the region of oak, jesmine, small honeysuckle (Lonicera alpigena), acacia, and Cercis siliquastrum. Our descent, however, continued 5 hours from the halting place, at a fair pace. When we gained the valley of Sidaka or Sidek, we rested, at the village of Jeffuli, at an altitude of only 3,742 feet, so that, without crossing any inter- vening ranges, we had descended directly from the peak of Rowandiz to a considerably lower level than the plains of Azerbijan and the lake of TJrumia. 7. Rowandiz — We continued our road along the valley of Sidaka, as it is called by the Kurds, and by the Persians Sidek. We passed a river from the south-east, 10 yards wide by 1 in depth, and crossed it by a bridge; immediately be- yond which was a brook and ravine, and this latter isolates a bold pro- jection of rock, which is washed on the opposite side by the river of Sidaka and the last-mentioned river united. Immediately beyond Sidaka we commenced the ascent of. the Sari-Burd, a mountain of brown, blue, and green schists, and covered with oaks, including a large proportion of valonia. We were 5 hours accomplishing nearly the semicircuit of Sari- Burd, which we had to do to gain the valley of Rowandiz, where it is washed by the river of Sidaka. The latter part of the descent of the Sari-Burd for 2J miles is carried along a shelving declivity of schists, and cannot be ridden over on mules. I need not add that it is quite impracticable for artillery, and constitutes the second of the difficulties of this road, which are three in number, viz., the snows of the pass of Keli-Shin, the descent on slates at the foot of the Sari-Burd, and the vast limestone precipices west of Rowandiz. We halted a short time at the Christian village of Dyana, and then rode along the plain to Rowandiz. 8. Pie Hasan — We did not leave Rowandiz till mid-day. Passing the gardens of the town, we made a descent into a deep valley with a gap through the lime- ridge into the bed of the Rowandiz river; we then ascended If hour to the crest of the shoulder of Sar Hasan Beg, from whence the Great Zab bore north 48 west, and Sheikhiwa. north 78 east. The rocks of the Great Zab 755 TABIliZ TO M6SUL. had become nearly horizontal, but soon afterwards were waved and con- torted. It took us exactly 1^ hour to descend the precipice which now separated us from the river. The road winds down the perpendicular face of the rock so gradually that it may be ridden on most of its length. We went fast, for we were thirsty, and the windings must have been 6 or 7 miles in length. Having gained the bottom, the road does not follow the valley or ravine of the Zab, but of the river of Pir Hasan, which flows into it. Our road up the glen of the Pir Hasan river had many charms. In the first place the steep precipices shaded us from the hot beams of the sun ; there was plenty of water, and the wooded cliffs presented great variety of scene : in some parts vast slips had taken place, and huge masses of rock for a time hid the river from sight ; then we came upon a little open space with a base of sand or gravel, while at other times the road was carried with difficulty under overhanging cliffs. At length we came to the open plain, where the limestone rocks at the outskirts of the range were nearly vertical, while within they became almost immediately horizontal, an arrangement not so readily accounted for by the hypothesis of upheaving forces, as by that of subsidence. We bivouacked on the banks of the river, and near the village of Pfr Hasan. 9. Isa— We had now entered upon an uninteresting country — the sun-burnt plains and undulating district which extends between the outlying low ranges of hills of the Kurdistan mountains. First on our road were the hills of Koniatman, clad with oaks, among which appeared a modern square castle called Kala'h Kin by my informants, and Kala'h Julamerik by the muleteers, who were from Rowandiz. These hills led us to the plain of Herir, beyond which is the rocky range of limestone called Gharah Surgh. Passing by.Anoma, a large village, we came to the banks of the Zab, where is a ferry and two villages, the one on the left bank being called Kasrokf, that on the right Kendil. A little beyond the ferry we entered upon a country of sands and sandstone, with the usual rivulets clad with gaudy oleanders. There are many villages on the banks of the Zab, which is driven by the G-harah Surgh further north than is marked on the maps. We stopped at one of these villages, called Isa, by the side of a clear spring, having a temperature of 69° Fahr. ; the air being 110°, 10. Choree: — The main part of the morning's journey was directed up the valley of the Akra' river, which is a tributary to the Zab. About 8 miles from the Zab there are two streams ; one from north 50 west, finds its way by a ravine through the limestone range that flanks the low country, and is here called Sir-i-Sadah ; the other from Akra. We left the valley by a hill called Sar Deriyeh, of no great height, but commanding a most extensive prospect, and from whence I got bearings of all the various outlets of waters from the mountains, with also the inlet of Pir Hasan, the only case of the kind that I know in the Kurdistan hills. Below this hill we entered upon the extensive plain of Nav-Kiir, studded with villages, but only very partially cultivated; yet more so than in its northern portion, where we had crossed it on our departure. The river Khazfr flows through its centre, but afterwards approaches closely to the foot of Jebel Maklub, which it washes at its south-eastern base. We travelled on till dark, and then took up our quarters in the village of Ohorek. 11. M6stjx— The Jebel Maklub is prolonged to the south-east by low hills of sandstone, on the side of which is the large village of Zenganah, and the village and kbin of Duberdah. We took breakfast at this place, and trotted from thence to M6sul in 4 hours, the distance being about 18 British miles. (Ainsworth.) 756 TABRIZ TO RESHT. No. 117. TABRIZ to EESHT. Bokinj — 6 miles. The road from Tabriz to Borinj leads in an easterly direction, through gardens and orchards, the high mud-walls of which almost concealed the beauty of the foliage, and the view is generally confined to the limits of a narrow, dusty lane. Khoja — 16 miles — 22 miles. We left Borinj at half-past seven the next morning, and proceeded in a norther- ly direction towards a steep pass, through hills composed of red sandstone and granite. On emerging from this pass, we travelled east, through a mountainous country, almost totally uncultivated ; the soil being so strongly impregnated with salt that no vegetation exists, save some few plants peculiar to land of that description. Having ridden about six miles, we passed Gheunbund, a village of apparently twenty houses, situated on the left, at the foot of the hills here bounding the Bmall, barren plain through which our road lay. Continuing through this scenery in a north-easterly direction, small patches of cul- tivation being here and there visible, we crossed a rivulet, the water of which, though brackish, was drinkable ; and, a mile or two further on, we forded the Adgee, or Bitter Biver. At this season it is very shallow, and not more than thirty yards broad ; the water is clear and extremely salt. At half-past eleven a. m. we arrived at our resting-place, the village of Ehodjeh, bearing north-east at about sixteen miles from Borinj. Euzikapan — 20 miles — 42 miles. At half-past seven in the morning we left Ehodjeh, and, at first travelling a short distance in a north-easterly direction, afterwards turned east, and continued our route through numerous small plains, separated by low rocky hills of the same formation and coloring as those already described. At distant intervals patches of cultivation were to be seen, but in general the country presented a dreary and barren appearance. We crossed several times the stream which had yesterday spoiled our tea, and about one o'clock came to the banks of a rivulet, the waters of which were said to be fresh and good. After breakfast we recommenced our march, going east, over some low hills more rounded and not so craggy as those we had hitherto traversed. We now crossed another wide, barren plain, and entered a more cultivated district, where numerous teams of oxen were busily employed in ploughing. Until arriving at the village of the Shah-soowar (king's horse-man), about eighteen miles from Khodjeh, not a vestige of a habitation was visible. Half a fursuck (two miles) further we came to the village of Euzikapan, an insignificant place, containing between thirty and forty houses. Ahae — 25 miles — 67 miles. We left Euzikapan at a quarter to nine, and proceeded in a north-easterly direction towards Earadaugh. As we ascended we became enveloped in a thick fog and drizzly rain, totally obscur- ing the scenery, which, judging from the sleep descents, the narrow deep gullies we traversed, and the bare rocks starting in gigantic masses from the edge of the road, must have been peculiarly wild. After an hour's descent from the summit of the pass we got clear of the mist, and half an our more brought us to an old caravanserai at the foot of the mountains. It stands on the right of the road ; on the left runs a small rivulet, flowing from a cleft in the hills, and becoming a considerable river as it approaches Ahar. The roads we had hitherto travelled were generally hard and level. Across the plains and, indeed, over some of the hills, it would not be difficult to drive a carriage ; here they became more stony, and sometimes passed through small patches of marshy ground. We continued our course along a broad and fertile valley watered by the above-mentioned stream, on the banks of which I ob- served several water-mills. 757 TiBE^Z TO RESHT. After travelling twenty -five miles in continual rain we forded the river, here about twenty yards broad, and, ascending a slight rise for half a mile, arrived wet and tired at Ahar. 5. MizjCm— 22 miles— 89 miles; At nine' o'clock we left Ahar, keeping generally in an easterly direction along the valley on the left bank of the river, which we crossed after about an hour's travelling, and, continuing for some distance on the right bank, passed the village of Teveleh (stable), and, a little further, that of Tazehkend (new village), both on the opposite side of the stream. Half a mile further on we passed through the village of Shah-verdee-kishlaugliee (Shah-seven winter residence), built on a small eminence, one side of which forms a precipice overhanging the river. Soon after quitting Shah-verdee-kishlaughee we again crossed over to the left bank. At this point the valley became narrower, varying from one to three hundred yards , and the hills, which had hitherto presented smooth and rounded summits, now exhibited a more rugged outline. The road wound round their sides, which sometimes, nearly meeting at the base, left only a narrow chasm for the stream, here so confined as to become a foaming torrent. The road then passes the villages of Gheundenghee and Kalabashi, whence it once more forded the stream, and, after travelling a few miles further along its right bank, quitted it altogether, ascending a hill covered with dwarf oak, birch, a kind of prickly shrub, something resembling the acacia, and occasionally clumps of the wild fig-tree. We continued over these hills on a beautiful, smooth turf for about two miles to MizAm, about 22 miles distant from Ahar. 6. Loei— 32 miles— 121 miles. On the 9th we left Mizaum, at about a quarter to nine, in a thick fog, and pro- ceeded in an easterly direction, over the same smooth, undulating country as the day previous. Continuing onwards we came to the village of Teyjah ; about a mile farther, to Auteshghir; and successively to Mazreh-jehan, Munjuckee, Habashee, Kassa- bah, and Meer-kendee. The soil over which we had travelled appeared rich, and was extensively cultivated with rice, barley, and wheat ; numberless villages were scattered about on every side, but those above mentioned lie close to the road. After having waited about a quarter of an hour at Meer-kendee for a guide, we crossed an undulating plain, the Savalaun Daugh being close on our right. The country here became stony and apparently barren, but the whole plain, was thickly studded with villages. Close to the road were Khorramoo, Baughtuppeh, Deear, Nestarabad, Bazil, Looeran, and Bijeh ; the two latter belonging to the Shah-seven tribe. We crossed many rivulets, all flowing in a north-westerly di- rection, and several dry beds of torrents, which, to judge from their appearance, must be large in the spring. From Bijeh we made a gradual ascent over a tract of rough, stony desert for about six miles, till we reached the village of Lori, distant thirty-two miles from Mizam. 7. StfMAsi— 20 miles — 141 miles. We left Lori at half-past nine o'clock, and, passing through its gardens, descend- ed into the plain, and struck across a stony country in an easterly direction, till we had passed the village of Meerali, a little to the left of the road, and, a mile further on, that of Ergheh ; hence we went more northerly over a better- cultivated tract, and ascended a spur of the Savalaun. It was exceedingly steep and rocky, and, to add to the misery of both horses and riders, the rain began to descend in torrents. For two hours the road lay over these hills ; it then became more passable, and, turning off a little to the right, we entered the village of Sumari. The time was about four o'clock in the afternoon, and we had been six hours and a half riding a distance of twenty miles, on account of the difficulty of the road. 758 TABBiZ TO KESHT. 8. Aedeb!l— 12 miles— 153 miles. We left Siimarf at a quarter to ten in a heavy snow-storm, which soon turned to mist and rain, and, passing over some low hills, entered the plain of Ardebil after a short but unpleasant ride of twelve miles. 9. NamIn — 11 miles — 164 miles. We left Ardebil at ten o'clock, and immediately outside the town, crossing the small River Balooklee (fishy), took a north-easterly direction across the plain. Many villages are scattered about, among which Erghoer, Boglaun, Kerlaun, Kourtabad, Augboulaugh, and Zeeranah lay nearest the road. During the first hour's march, as far as the village of Augboulaugh, the plain was well cultivat- ed ; on the other side it appeared more sandy and barren, but numerous flocks of sheep and cattle were grazing on the scanty herbage. Four miles further we forded the Karasoo, which divideB Ardebil from Taulish. It was rather swollen by the late rains, but the depth was not more than three and a half feet in the middle, and the width about sixteen yards. We then passed the villages of Dghighere, Kendee, and Soulaugh, and, turning north over a low hill, approached Hamin about eleven miles distant from Ardebil. Namin is a very pretty village, situated in a small valley at the foot of the moun- tains, which divide the upper country from the low lands of Taulish. 10. Astaea — Our road lay in an easterly direction across some fine grassy hills. After travelling about two miles, we dismissed our escort and entered the forest, which, although the leaves had fallen and icicles hung from the branches, was a very agreeable change from the dreary plains we had quitted, where not a bush broke the monotony of the scene. The trees were principally stunted oak, hawthorn, wild apple, and beech. Two miles of ascent by a narrow, muddy path brought us to the summit of the mountains, from whence a beautiful and new scene presented itself. On the left, before us, rose a steep hill covered with dense forest to within an hundred feet of the top, which terminated in a flat mass of grey rock, called Shinghian Ealeh. From this point we began a steep descent, along a track in some places nearly obliterated by the quantity of fallen leaves, and in others formed of ridges, between which were pools of mud and water, made by the continual even tread of baggage-cattle following each other in long strings. It was very painful to our horses, which were continually stumbling and slipping, and straining them- selves by violent efforts to recover their footing. We continued on a similar track for many miles, and had left our baggage far in the rear, as the loaded horses could only advance slowly down the toilsome declivity, when our guide lost the way, which was peculiarly annoying, as the day was far advanced, and Astara, our halting-place, still distant. After wandering about for some time, vainly endeavouring to find the road, we came upon three tents belonging to the Dereh-ilee tribe. They conducted us into the road, and we again resumed our journey. We were now, as far as I could judge, about half way down the descent, and, at this height above the sea, the leaves were still on the trees, though yellow and beginning to fall. The forest contained a few oaks, but chiefly beech and sycamore, with a scanty underwood of medlar, apple-trees, and stunted holly-bushes ; on the former I found some fruit, though not yet arrived at perfection. Here and there the wood was cleared in small patches for cultivation. Further down we came to a stratum of clouds, and, for some time, were enveloped in a thick mist : here the oaks had disappeared, and the beech predominated, the trees being about three times the size of those at the top of the mountains, and exhibiting the dense, green foliage of summer. The road was now almost impassable, deep holes, full of mud and water being formed between the roots of the trees, which, spreading like network over the surface of the ground, were exceedingly painful and dangerous to the limbs of the horses. We were frequently obliged to dismount, and lead the animals. One poor brute, which luckily carried nothing but the stable furniture, stumbled and rolled head over heels some five or six times down the side of a hill, until 759 TABRIZ TO RESHT. brought up by a large tree. We were now near the foot of the mountains ; the underwood of rank vegetation became very dense, and the wild vines were hang- ing in festoons from the trees. The road we had travelled was not that commonly adopted by caravans, as the usual one was impracticable on account of the late destruction by a flood of some bridge over the Astara Eiver. We forded this stream at the small village ofKishveh. Having crossed the river, we were assured by our guide that we should soon arrive at Astara. Time, however, wore on, the sun set, and the road, hardly practicable by daylight, became doubly difficult in the dark. After crossing and recrossing the river several times we halted near some cottages, and in half an hour more we arrived at a house already prepared for us. 11. Hbhvi— 28 miles. All things being ready, and our baggage having started an hour before us, we left Astara. The road lay along the beach, formed, as before mentioned, of sand and the detritus of the cockle, which is thrown up in some places in great abundance. The sands are in some places two hundred, but often do not exceed fifteen, yards in breadth, and thick forest, with a dense border of underwood, consisting of hawthorn, wild pomegranate, and medlar- trees, descend from the mountains to their very verge. Mile after mile the scenery continued the same. We passed in succession the rivers Khodjeh-kerree, Khanrood, Sevendevil, Tchilivend, Hadjee-rustam, Le- meer, and Nobat-chai. They are all clear, shallow streams, about twenty yards broad, and had formed sand-banks at their mouths. About half-past two p. m. we came to the River Hehvi, distant from Astara twenty-eight miles, and turning along its banks into the forest, arrived at a village of the same name. 12. Katghana — We left Hehvee at about eight o'clock on the morning of the 18th, and, fording the river over a clear, stony bed, continued our journey along the coast, which presented the same description of scenery as the day before. We forded the Rivers Sheelawaun, Khat-mesourah, Lissar-chai, and Karghana-rood, all in some measure dangerous on account of quicksands, and requiring experienced guides. The Karghanagh-rood is by far the largest stream we had as yet cross- ed ; and a wide, stony bed of some three hundred yards, strewed with rocks and the trunks of large trees, show that it must be a tremendous torrent in the spring. At this time the water was running in several small rills over a nearly dry bed. We reached the banks of the stream late in the afternoon ; then turned from the sea, and, proceeding inland about three miles through the forest, arrived at our intended resting-place at sunset. 13. Kj&piJrchar — We rose early, and left Karghana to the village of Jellowdar. We left the village and proceeded through the forest towards the sea-shore. Further on we came to several small reed-huts. Continuing onwards we passed the following rivers : — The Hindekerron, the Kelfarood, the Navarood, the Allalon-chai, the Kholasoror, the Dina-char-chai (a considerable river), the Soomerkerron, the Alekion, the Nokendeh, the Shoo- aree-chai, and the Mahmoud Tukianee. Most of them were at this season shallow streams, but become rapid torrents in the Bpring. After a ride of about thirty miles along the beach, which presented the same scenery as heretofore, we arrived at sunset at Kurpurchar, the last village in Taulish. 14. Enzeli — We mounted our horses at ten o'clock and rode for twelve miles along the ridge of sand, which, varying in breadth from a quarter to half a mile, separates the lake of Enzeli from the Caspian. After an intensely hot ride, we approached Enzeli, situated at the eastern extre- mity of the sand bank. 15. Resht — At nine o'clock departed for Peeree Bazar. Ourselves, servants, and baggage occupied two large boats, and, the wind being fair, a square sail was hoisted 760 TABRIZ TO RESHT. which, with the occasional help of oars, carried us across the lake to the entrance of the Peeree Bazar River, a distance of about sixteen miles, in three hours. We made very slow progress after entering the stream, which is not more than eight or nine yards wide, and closely bordered with a thick jungle of seed- alders, and bramble-bushes. Many boats similar to our own passed us on their way to Enzeli. After having poled and rowed about two miles and a half in little more than an hour, we came to an abrupt turning of the river, where two small brick-sheds for the reception of goods marked the landing place of Peeree Bazar. No. 118. TABRIZ to RESHT. 15 marches, 250§ miles. 1. Khojeh* N. E. 20 miles. On quitting Tabrez, the road for about a mile runs along the right bank of the Bosmiyeh river, and then ascending, approaches the hills to the north-east of the city. At 6 miles reach the summit of the ascent, which is stony, and in some places exceedingly steep. The descent is shorter and less steep than the ascent, and leads into a fine cultivated valley. The road level and free from stones. The village of Khojeh contains about sixty or seventy houses. 2. Kizil Kapan (Red Barn. T.) N. E. 20 miles— 40 miles. After leaving Khojeh, the country is covered with small isolated green and red hills, varying from 30 to 100 feet in height. At 8 miles passed the village of Shebrek, three orfour miles to the left of the road. At 16 miles crossed a richly- cultivated valley running N. W. and S. E., with a small hamlet at some distance to the right. Afterwards gently-undulating ground. A range of snowy mountains bearing S.S.E. The road level and passable for carriages. 3. Ahab N. E. 8 miles E. 1-2 miles — 52 miles. The road gradually descends from Kizil Kapan into a valley. At 3 miles a ruined karavanserai marks the commencement of a gentle ascent, about a mile in length, by the side of a small stream ; the descent for three miles is more ab- rupt. A ruined karavanserai stands at the foot of the pass. One mile beyond, the road turn to the eastward, and follows the course of the Ahar river on its right bank. A range of hills to the north sprinkled with snow. The road, after clearing the pass, is excellent, being hard, level, and free from stones. Much cultivation ; wheat and barley on both sides of the river. 4. KiSHLAK.f S. 80° E., 10 miles— 62 miles. At 4 miles the road crosses the stream of Ahar, and continues on its southern bank. From 4 miles to 10 miles a rich tract of country occurs called Savalan Shami, about six miles in length and four in breadth, covered with cultivation, except in the vicinity of the river, which is reserved for pasturage. A range of mountains called Shaivek, distant about eight miles to the north of the road. At 9 miles passed the village of Kazeh Kond, containing twenty or thirty houses, situated on the left bank of the Ahar stream ; after crossing which, the road passes over a succession of ridges and ravines which descend to the river from the Kashka range, distant about four miles on the right, and crosses several small streams. Kishlak is a village containing about thirty houses. 5. S6j BtJlak — 14 miles— 76 miles. A small village to the left of the road, situated on the pinnacle of an isolated hill at the foot of which flows the Ahar stream. It is surrounded by a wall, and contains about twenty poor huts. * Khwajah (w not sounded), pronounced Khojah, 'a husband, old man, preceptor,' by the Turks, with the stress on the last syllable. t (T.) 'Winter quarters.' 761 4z TABRIZ TO RBSHT. 6. Yengijeh* S. 80° E. 9 miles, For the first four miles the road is uneven and stony, over hills on the right bank of the stream. At 4 miles the road quits the river, which flows to the N. E. to join the Kara Su. At 7 miles passed the village of Mizar, contaiuing about twenty houses, situated on the spur of a hill to the right. After leaving the river, the road leads over undulating ground, sloping to the north, and richly cultivated with wheat and rice. 7. Stfj BtJiAK N. 75° E. 3 miles. A small village to the right, and another half a mile on the left. Half a mile beyond is the small village of Hawashi on the right, and half a mile further the village of Khanchel. Bieh cultivation on both sides of the road. 8. Nase Tehran to Kazvin... ... ... 22 \ ^ Difference ... — 13 786 TEHRAN TO UESHT. Kum — 21 miles — 114 miles. We were off at 20 minutes to 3 this morning, and proceeding E. S. E., crossed at the 2nd mile the Kara-chai, a paltry little stream at this part, only about 10 yards wide and a few inches deep. It must be remembered, however, that in its course thus far from the mountains it gives life to many villages, for each of which more or less water is taken up in irrigation. At about the 4th mile we passed to our left the village Kale Sefter, after which the direction varied between S. E. and E. S. E., until at 8£ miles we reached the Kuh-e-Nemek (Hill of Salt), an isolated rocky mountain, several hundred feet high, from which saline springs issue, form a marsh and pond around, and leave a thick deposit of salt. Leaving this we proceeded 5 miles indirection S. E., near some low hills, which here interrupted the plain on our left ; afterwards the direction became S. E. by E., and then gradually E. by S. along the plain of Kum, which town, after passing some well-cultivated land and crossing a low bridge over a small stream (the Nalbar), we entered at the end of the 21st mile, the distance from the Kuh-e-Nemek being about 12j miles. No. 128. TEHRAN to RESHT. 1. Kand — 10 miles. A pretty village at the mouth of a gorge in Elbiirz. Good water from a stream. 2. Kabich — 18 miles — 28 miles. A village at the mouth of a gorge in the mountains, whence issues the Karich river. Passing through Kand the road descends 200 feet to a ravine, then it crosses the Kand river, three feet deep, 40 feet broad, and very rapid, the banks covered with reeds and low jungle. The Karich river is in general fordable, but there is a brick bridge half mile above the village. 3. Kuedan — 16 miles — 44 miles. A village of 150 houses. 4. Gazib-i-Sang — 27 miles— 71 miles. The road heavy for the first mile ; it then enters hills which run from the foot of a range of mountains parallel to, and overtopped by the Elbiirz range. In another mile the Kiirdan river is reached and crossed by a bridge ; it is here 3 feet deep, 140 feet broad, and very rapid. The road then enters a hilly country, and passes the fine village of Chandni, after which it ascends for 1,000 feet above Kurdan, In another hour it reaches a shrine, and in one mile further the village of Hir : it then descends into a ravine ; thence for four miles it lies through a fine plain. It is not necessary to go to Hir, which is a detour. 5. Hisae— 28 miles— 99 miles. The road lies through a magnificent plain, bounded on either side by mountains, and watered by many small streams, with patches of grass, camel thorn, and rough herb- age. At 12 miles passes a rained caravanserai. 6. Kazvin— 12 miles— 111 miles. The road is very heavy the whole way. 7. Ah Baba— 12 miles— 123 miles. For the first 5 miles to Mahmudabad the road is heavy after rain. It then enters the hills and ascends to Ah Baba, which is several hundred feet above Kazvin. 8. Khaezan— 20 miles— 143 miles, 7 hours. _ The road for the first 5 miles to Mazra is very_ good, though a little spongy after rain ; thence it goes over hills, which continually increase in height and difficulty, and is very heavy. On the Kharzan side it comes to a series of ravines from a yard to ten feet deep, worn in places into deep holes and is frightfully difficult for horses. It then descends and reaches a pass, in the centre of which flows a stream, and which is strewn with the bones of camels, mules, &c, belonging to former travellers. This pass is extremely dangerous in the winter, when numbers perish annually. 787 TEHEAN TO SAEI. 9. Pachanan — 12 miles — 155 miles. The road is a steep descent the whole way through wild ravines ; the last part is excessively steep to the Pachanan river, the bed of which is here 200 yards broad, though the water is only from 6 to 40 feet in breadth. It is sometimes unfordable for ten days together. 10. Manzil — 14 miles — 169 miles. The road passes alongside the river for two miles, and then crosses it by a handsome brick bridge ; after that it is very hard and good, and two miles from the bridge it passes a small jungle and a large ruined village. Manzil is a large village. 11. Rt/stamabad — 15 miles— 184 miles. At z m il e come to the Sufed Riid, which is crossed by a bridge of seven arches. The road then passes along the left bank of the river, constantly ascending and descend- ing high rocks. In many places it is very steep and rugged, and not by any means broad, so that a false step would hurl one over a precipice of from 100 to 1,200 feet deep- At four miles from Manzil pass through Riidbar, beyond which the river expands still more, and at j mile from Manzil pass a caravanserai. 12. Injaii — 15 miles — 199 miles. The road is a stony series of ascents and descents, varied occasionally by a slough honeycombed by the feet of passing animals. On the side hand is a precipice, towards which the path shelves in a sinister fashion. At six miles pass a bridge over a tributary of Sufed Eiid. 13. Eesht — 12 miles — 211 miles. The road goes through swamp and jungle for one-fourth mile, and then gets on the main Resht road, which is excellent at first, with ditches on each side and » wall fence a foot high ; but the good part comes only in patches, while between are veritable sloughs of despond, which look as if made to break the legs of animals. At six miles reach a serai, when the road improves. (Eastwick.) No. 129. TEHEAN to SARi and BALFABU'SH. 7 marches. 1. Jaj-bIjd— 15 miles. On quitting Tehran in an east-north-east direction at fifteen miles, the Jaj-rud river is crossed by a ford ; but from the month of April to the middle of June, when the mountain snows are melting, it is often so much swollen that laden mules make a circuit of several miles to cross the river by a bridge, said to be about three miles above the caravanserai at the ford. 2. Demavbnd— 25 miles— 40 miles. From Jaj-rud to Demavend, a distance of twenty-five miles, the road is crossed by several small streams, upon each of which is situated a village surrounded by cultivation. 3. Sahbandan — 15 miles— 55 miles. The road passes through several well supplied villages. From Sarbandan to Fir6z-k6h* no supplies are to be had, except in small quantities at the wretched huts which are called the caravanserais of Aru, EaK-chai,f and Ami'nabad J At Arii the road gradually inclines towards the range of hills to the south. The Dali-chai river is a rapid mountain stream flowing from the north-west, in a deep ravine, through a mountainous, broken country. To the east of the ford is a steep and rocky ascent over hills sprinkled with juniper. From Aminabad to Ghazan-chai the road is good, except at the descent to the river, which is abrupt and rocky. The Ghazan-chai flows from the north ; it is a considerable stream, but iordable at all seasons. * Mount Victorious, or Blue Mountain,— F. 8. t Mad-stream.— F. 8. t Euler's Town, or Peaceful Abode.— F. S. 788 TEHRAN TO SAK,f. 5. Sheegah. The road from Fir6z-k6h into Mazanderan leads over a pass, about'ten miles to the north-east of that place. Near the summit of the pass is a large and well- built, though now ruined, caravanserai. On the 9th April the snow was deep on the summit of the ridge for about half a mile, and the road had only recently- been opened. Immediately below the snow on the northern side is a forest of stunted oak, and the path runs in the bed of a small stream, the source of the Talar river. This bed descending becomes a narrow ravine, and in the course of a few miles the oak gives place to the juniper, elm, chesnut, beech, box, and rhododendron, springing from every crevice of the rocks. At thirty-two miles below the remains of a hill fortress, called by the people of the country the Castle of the Dev Siifed,* the ravine contracts to a narrow gorge which was formerly defended by a stone wall, the remains of which and of a gateway are still visible. In the vicinity of this place are a few patches of barley. One mile beyond Siirkhrabatf (a wooden hovel said to have been erected for the accommodation of the late Shah) rice is cultivated. The road here runs through a dense thicket, and before we reached the Pul-i-Sufed,J which is a well-built stone bridge over the Talar, we came upon the commencement of this branch of Shah Abbas's causeway. At Pul-i-Siif£d the road turns north-north-west and continues along the eastern bank of the river, and as far as Shergah§ is execrable. The causeway of Shah Abbas has been a magnificent work, formed by a trench twenty feet deep and fourteen wide, cut in the side of the mountain, and then filled with large stones. In consequence of the incessant rains which fall in this part of the country, and of the want of all repair, this causeway has been nearly destroyed. In many parts the stones have been washed away, and their place having been supplied by logs and branches of trees, it is difficult even for mules to pass. 6. Sae£. Four miles beyond Shergah the road leaves the hills, and enters upon a fine level tract of country, covered with cultivation, pasturage, and wood. The road here diverges to the north-north-east from the Talar river. Between Ah'-abad|| and Sari, fifteen miles in a north-east direction, the causeway for a mile or two is in good repair, and leads through a natural avenue of magnificent trees. All traces of it are then lost until within three miles of Sare". Travellers are obliged to pick out a pathway for themselves through swamps, brushwood, and rice-fields at some distance from the original line of road. 7. Balfaetjsh. From Sari to Balfariish the road returns south-west to Ali-abad, and thence strikes to the north-west and north-north-west. The Talar river is forded at the third mile from Ali-abad. The causeway has there fallen to decay, and is described as being impassable. Travellers are obliged to make a circuit through a forest of magnificent oak, beech, and elm, interspersed with villages and rice, fields. The country becomes again open within two miles of the town. (Todd)- No. 130. TEHRAN to SARI. 1 & 2. As far as Aewan-i-Eef, vide No. 3. Keil6n— 19 miles N. W. The road crosses a deep river bed near the town, and at 1 mile ascends a high hill winding by a narrow and dangerous path ; it then descends and crosses the river. The next 4 miles lies over hills and through chasms between mountains, and at 8 miles again crosses the river ; then for 2 miles it goes along the river, which it crosses by a ford at 12 miles. At 16 miles reach Sarun, a beautiful village, then in 3 miles reach Keiliin, crossing and re-crossing the river 20 times. * The White Demon. Ouseley, iii. 231.— F. S. t Red Resting-place. Ouseley, iii. 232.— F. S. t White bridge.— F. 8. § Lion-place. — F. 9. I All's Abode.— F. S. 789 TEHRAN TO TABRIZ. 4. DALfoHAf— 24 miles. The road goes back on the last stage one mile, then goes nearly east along a valley between two ranges of hills ; at 5 miles it turns north-east, and at 7 miles again east, crossing a river bed several times. The road rough, and bad, and very narrow. At 14 miles the valley widens little, and at 16 expands into a plain ; 2 miles thence to Daliehai the road is very bad between hills. 6. Tir6z K6h— 21 miles. The road is very bad to Hablarud, 7 miles north-east, thence the road is very bad, being either on the steep sides and very edges of hills, and not above 13 or 14 inches wide, or else along a narrow valley between stupendous rocks and mountains. From Pir6z K6h a road leads to Veramin by a stream. 6. Taleh EtJDBAE — 28 miles. The road goes over a plain for 5 miles, when a ruined serai is reached, and again by an easy ascent for 6 miles to the Caravanserai-i-Gadiik. It then descends for half mile and forests appear, the road narrowing and becoming very difficult, when it goes over steep mountains, or in the bed of the river covered with boulders, the hills on both sides being covered with jungle. At 18 miles reach some huge rocks called Khaneh-i-Dev-i-Siife'd : near this is the dilapidated serai of Surkhrabat. Beyond at 4 miles come to Doab at the junction of two streams, and 4 miles further to Taleh Riidbar. 7. Zebab — 16 miles. The road goes along the river Talar for 6 miles, and is in many places execrable, then crosses it by the Pul-i-Siifed by a bridge of two arches ; thence it is very difficult indeed over a rugged path, up and down steep hills through chasms between rocks, crossing the Talar at least 20 times, and frequently passing morasses where horses sink to the saddle girth. 8. Shbkoah — 18 miles. The road still continues by the Talar river, frequently crossing it for the first 9 miles along Shah Abbas's causeway, and completely broken up, and is very difficult indeed. At 7 miles arrive at the Sar-i-Kala, a frightfully difficult ascent, up which animals cannot go without being regularly dragged up ; thence the road continues equally bad by Mian-i-Kala through magnificent forests to Shergah. The road is exe- crable, sometimes on a level with the stream, sometimes ascending 500 to 600 feet above. Several torrents are crossed by good bridges. At 12 miles the road becomes more level and the hills recede. 9. Aif abad — 10 miles. The road commences very bad, going through a most beautiful country on the right bank of Talar for 3 miles, when this river is crossed. At 7 miles ascend a well- wooded hill : thence road to Balfanish. 10. SabI— 16 miles. The road is much better, but at 3 miles the causeway disappears, and travellers have to go as best they can through the fields. (Ouseley) No. 131. TEHRAN to TABRIZ. 1. Kabj— 27 miles "W. N. "W. The road leaves the city by the Kazvin gate, and goes over a flat desert bounded on the north by hills of barren rock. 2. NaseXbad— 22 miles "W. N. W.— 49 miles. The road is over a plain, in many places well cultivated. 3. Sat! Khwatah— 13 miles W. N. W.— 62 miles. The road lies over a plain, which in some places has no vestige of a path. There is said to be a shorter and more difficult road between these places. 4. Hasnabad— 19 miles W. N. "W.— 81 miles. The road is good over a plain on which are scattered some mud villages and mounds. Mr. Ellis's mission halted at Kargusabad, a village off the road. 790 TEHRAN TO TABRIZ. 5. Kazvin— 11 miles W. N. W.— 92 miles. The road is good over a fertile plain. 6. Siahdahan— 22 miles S. S. W.— 114 miles. The road is excellent and hroad over an extensive plain, on which there are many villages. 7. Paesjin— 18 miles W. N. W.— 132 miles. The road is over a plain with low hills to the north, and a range of very lofty moun- tains bounding the remote horizon on the south, and many flourishing and populous villages are passed. 8. Abhe— 14 miles W. N. W. — 146 miles. The road goes over a fertile plain with some cultivation, and intersected by numerous irrigation drains. 9. San Kaea— 13 miles W. N. W.— 159 miles. The road goes through a fertile and well-cultivated plain, bounded on both sides, at the distance of 8, 10 and 12 miles, by lofty mountains. Mr. Ellis's mission halted at Khoramdara, 26 miles from Sultania 10. Sultania— 19 miles W. N. W— 178 miles. The road is good, still leading over the same fine and fertile plain. 11. Zanjan— 24 miles N. W— 202 miles. The first part of the road for 5 to 6 miles is over the plain of Sultania, with hills 2 miles on the right and 6 to 7 miles on the left. At 10 miles pass a village, 2 furlongs on left, called Dhiza. The road from this goes over uneven ground over a ravine to the left and low hills 1 mile distant. A range of hills 2 miles on the right. 12. Sahbin— 15 miles N. N. W— 217 miles. The road is in many places rugged and hilly. At 7 miles cross a deep ravine with water, at 8 miles another, then a fort at foot of mountains. At 11 miles a cluster of three small hills on the right. 13. Aemaghaneh — 11 miles N. W. — 228 miles. The road is bad and stony. At 2 miles cross a deep ravine with water. The mountains on the right are 1 mile distant, those on the left 9 or 10. 14. B£eundeh — 18 miles N. W. — 246 miles. The road goes over many high hills. At 2 miles ascend a hill, thence the road goes over uneven country with low hills on both sides. 15. Akkand — 11 miles N. W. — 257 miles. The road ascends gradually. At 7 miles descend a small eminence, then cross a steep hill to the village. The water here is excellent. 16. Gttltapeh— 8 miles N. W— 265 miles. The road ascends over steep hills, and is bad over an uneven country for 4 to 5 miles through ravine and low hills. The country is partially cultivated, and is broken into parallel ranges of craggy hills like petrified breakers. 17. Mf aneh— 20 miles "W. N. W— 285 miles. The road crosses the Kafilankoh, and beyond it the Kizlozan river, by a bridge of 3 arches. The pass of Kafilankoh is steep, rather picturesque and wild, and might easily be defended by a handful of men. Just before reaching Mianeh cross the river by a bridge of 21 arches. 18. Ttjbkjian Chai— 22 miles N. W. — 307 miles. The road goes over a series of hills. Tor 6 miles it leads at the foot of small hills and mostly through the bed of a river. The country is finely diversified with hill, dale and mountain, and would be beautiful if wooded. 19. Kaea Chaman — 13 miles N. — 320 miles. The road is through a country with low hills on both sides. There is a stream of excellent water here. 20. Takmah Dash — 12 miles N. — 332 miles. The road is through a country with low hills on both sides. 791 TIFliS TO TABRIZ 21. Ciiaman-i-AtjjAn— 12 miles N. N. W.— 344 miles. The road lies through small plains and rather uneven ground with low mils on both sides. Cross a rivulet half way. 22. Bosmij— 20 miles N. N. W.— 364 miles. The road goes over one hill of considerable length and steepness, called the bniblen JL11B IWfl" g v ^° w.^*. ~— ~ — — -- o 1 Pass, where many beasts of burden perish every winter. Stuart makes Syadabad 5 hours from Tabriz, the last stage. 23. Tabeez— 11 miles N. W.— 375 miles. The road for 4 miles goes over a level country with hills on both sides, afterwards through defiles. At 8 miles cross a rivulet. {Ouseley — Stewart.) No. 132. TIFLTS TO TABREZ. 1 . Makean Tblbt — 7 miles. The road is fit for driving. 2. KoTf— 10 miles — 17 miles. The road is better. A large village. 3. Saewan— 9 miles— 26 miles. A miserable post station. Road heavy. 4. Mitghatjli — 10 miles— 36 miles. No provisions procurable. Road over tuvf. 5. SATOGii — 15 miles— 51 miles. A tolerable station-house built on an eminence. Road over turf. 6. IWsen BeqlI — 17 miles — 68 miles. The road lies for the most part through a vast plain ; the soil is heavy. The station is a miserable wooden shed. 7. HuztfM Tala — Hi miles— 79J miles. 8. Istibolak— Hi miles — 91 miles. 9. Chabupane— 9£ miles — 100£ miles. The road is very heavy in some places, and in others frightfully stony and hilly. There is a beautiful gushing spring here. 10. Deiijan — 12 miles— 112^ miles. The road is a series of ascents and descents with mountains on each side. 11. Chabukli — 13| miles— 126 miles. This is on the Grokcha lake. The road for the first 9 miles is frightfully bad ; in places it consists of heaps of stones, as in the bed of a furious torrent. Then there is a long descent to the lake. The station-house here is a tolerable one on the north shore of the lake. 12. Elen» small caravanserai. S.S.E. ,, 5 fi »> S. by E. i> n J* S.E. >> H „ S. S. E. » 6 s> here a sensible descent. S. ,, 2 ») to salt stream. S. by E. and present- \ 3 s - ly S.S.E. °3 33 S.E. ,j 11 j, road branching off to Noo S.S.E. i> 1 "2 )J to Muroyeh. S-E. >t 2 3" „ pass Khoda-abad. S.E. 73 If 33 Serez. 31* From the small caravanserai at the 10th mile, the district of Kuh Benan bears E.S.E. in the mountains. Here terminated the district of Yezd, and we entered that of Kirman. At about 21| miles we commenced a sensible descent 797 .. 1* » to salt stream. .. 1* >» .. 11 „ .. t ,, pass low hills to right. .. f »5 ascending low hills. ... If SJ ascending low hills- .. 1 „ .. * >> over plain. .. i >» .. 1 M £ 4 >S ■• 1 „ to Futtehabad. .. 24 „ .. 1* »» to Yezdanabad. 24^f miles YEZD TO KfRMAN. southwards, and traversed a tract of sand-hills, broken ground, and thickets of the ghez tree. At 23| miles occurred a salt stream flowing to the N. W. We reached the little viliage-fort of Muroyeh at about 28f miles, and, passing the village Khoda-abad at the 30th mile, alighted at that of Serez at 3LJ miles. This is a ruinous village in two divisions, the water of which is salt. Yezdanabad — 24 miles — 169 miles. We proceeded to Yezdanabad on the following bearings : — S.E. by S. and S.E. ... ... 3 miles to a wooded spot. E. 20° S. ... ... ... 3 „ to shallow valley. E. 30 S. ... ... f „ E. by S. and E.S.E. ... 3 E.30°S. ... ... ... | „ S.E. 10° E. E.S.E. S.E. 20° E. S.E. 10 E. E. by S. E.S.E. S.E. by E. E. 20° S, E. byS. E.S.E. E. by S. E.S.E. E. by S. E. byN. At the 3rd mile were more thickets of the ghez tree, after which the plain was at first soft and sandy, but afterwards a firm gravelly tract, clothed with tufts and low bushes. At the 6th mile we crossed a shallow valley in the plain, which latter extends from N. W. to S. E. At llf miles we alighted to breakfast at a small salt streamlet flowing from E. to W. Here the wild ass is frequently seen. At 3f miles beyond we passed low hills to our left rising from the plain and then crossed a tract of intensely salt kevvir. At about the 21st mile we reached the little ruinous village of Futtehabad, and alighted at Ti ezdanabad, a village of about thirty -five families, situated rather more than 24 miles from our last station ; it in fact comprises two villages, Yezdanabad and Kehnu, called also Izzetabad. 9. Zerend— 10 miles— 179 miles. At about 5 miles from Yezdanabad, travelling east, we reached the small village- fort of Jellalabad, whence the road led E.S.E. to Sulimanabad, another village 4 miles beyond, and, a little farther on, past that of Deh Chinar. The next was Eeyhan, situated at one mile from Zerend (direction still as above to the latter place), a large but ruinous village, situated at what is called 4 fursacks from Yezdanabad, but which I consider only about 10 miles. 10. Kumabad — 15J miles— 194J miles. We departed in bright clear weather, but with a cold easterly wind, and hoar- frost covering the ground. The following are the particulars of the route : — 120° If mile. 11° ••■ ... 1 „ to the village Ibrahimabad. 130 ■•■ ■•• 1 » to Tajabad village, J mile beyond which was that of Bahabad. 130 ... ... 6J „ Streamlet and chenaz trees, from whence I took the following bearings :— Village Dahu, 4| miles distant, under mountains, N. 10° E. ; village Der Tengeh, 3 miles distant, under mountains N. 35°^E. ; hamlet Eigabad, £ mile distant, N. 35° E.; village Khanuk, 3 miles distant, under mountains, N. 70° E. 125 ... ... 5| „ toKumabad. 15| miles. 798 YEZD TO TEHRAN. 11. Zangiabad— I85 miles— 213 miles. Our direction was as follows : — S.E. 160° S.F. S.E. 5° S.E. 150° 11 miles over salt kevvir. E. 41 1 160° and 150° 140 to 120° 130° 155 16° 170° 150 170 The mountains bounding the plain on our left make a bend southwards at a point N.E. from this, and extend to 145,° where they form a point. To our right the plain is much interrupted by high and low rocky hills. across a very salt and sterile kevvir, smooth as a carpet. Pass the little uninhabited hamlet of Deh Nu, $ mile to our left ; from this spot the large village Ser Assiab bears 30° 3 miles distant. parallel with mountains on our left 1 a mile distant we here passed the ruined village Mudemabad. to village Zungiabad. I85 miles. 12. Kjeman — 13 miles — 226 miles. We proceeded about 13 miles to Kirman, on the following bearings : — 150° 125 and 130° 130 110 120 and 125° 125 f mile, 21 3 Over smooth plain of very light soil, to rocky hills extending into the plain, and through which we passed near their extremity, which forms the point noticed yesterday. Reach a mass of unsightly mud ruins, extending to the town of Kirman. Reach Kirman. 12$ miles. 1. Rabat Aniejua 2. Khabani 3. Sahgun 4. Ptjsht-i-Badam 5. Khalon Shamsh 6. Tabas No. 136. YEZD to TABAS. 6 stages, 60 miles. 6 miles 4 miles— 16 miles. 14 miles— 30 miles. 14 miles— 44 miles. 4 miles — 48 miles. 12 miles— 60 miles. (Zinneir.) No. 137. YEZD to TEHRAN. 150 miles, 50 hours, 14 stages. 1. A.KDA — 27 miles ; 9 hours. The country is gravelly or sandy but open. Water is obtained from springs led th™,,^ a kanat. A good supply of fruits and edibles are procurable here. ^ougn 799 ZOHAB TO SHTJSTAE. 2. Nah Kandan — 27 miles — 54 miles ; 9 hours — 18 hours. The country is open. Water is obtained from springs. Nothing is procurable here. 3. Na^n— 24 miles— 78 miles ; 8 hours— 26 hours. The country is open. Water is obtained from springs. Supplies obtainable. 4. Abdistan — 21 miles — 99 miles ; 7 hours — 33 hours. The country is open. Water is obtained from springs led through a kanat. Plenty of pomegranate trees ; supplies in plenty. 5. Koz-dan — 24 miles — 123 miles ; 8 hours — 41 hours. The country is open. Water is obtained from springs led through a kanat. A very small quantity of supplies may be had here. 6. Kashas' — 27 miles — 150 miles ; 9 hours — 50 hours. The country is open. Water is obtained from springs through kanats. All ordinary supplies are obtainable here. Thence the route goes by the main road between Isfahan and Tehran. — {Jones.) No. 138. ZOHAB to SHUSTAR. 18 miles, 19 stages. 1. Sab-i-pui — 8 miles. 2. Deiea — 10 miles south. Leaving the plain of Holwan the road winds round the foot of a range of hills called Danawish into a little valley watered by the Deira river, and from thence follows the right bank of the stream into the Sahra-i-Deira. The river of Deira is some- times fordable, but not after rain. 3. Gilan — The road crosses the ridge of mountains called Sambala by the Tang-i-Shashrah pass, whence it descends and goes for ten miles south-east along the plain of Gilan. If the river is not fordable, it can be passed by going up its right bank to the head of the Deira plain, whence the Sambala range is crossed by Siirkha Mel pass. 4. Zaenah — 32 miles. The road leads from Gilan into a narrow valley between mountains called Miandar which it follows for 20 miles into the plain of Iwan, whence it goes south for 10 miles across a barren tract. The direct road from Gilan to the Liiristan frontier passes over a high table-land called Ghillah, but this is generally blocked by snow in winter. 5. Chaediwae— 44 miles. The road crosses alofty and extensive range of mountains, upon which in winter there is snow, and which intervenes between Iwan and Asmanabad, and on the descent falls into ^the high road from Gilan which traverses the Chillah table-land. Prom Asmanabad there are two roads, one following the course of a petty stream which waters both this plain and Chardiwar, the other through richly wooded glade among the hills. The former is the nearest and best, but the latter has the advan- tage of being more sheltered in winter. 6. Zangawan— 16 miles. The road goes for 12 miles^ down the plain of Chardiwar through an open and well cultivated valley to the Charmin-K6h. At the foot of these hills, the stream which waters Asminated and Chardwar is crossed, and then the Charmin-K6h are ascended by an abrupt path._ On the summit there is some extent of table-land, then the road descends very precipitously to Zangawan. 7. Rtjdbae— On the banks of the Ab-i-Sirwan. No description of the road is given, as Major Eawlinson went off the direct route to visit the ruins of Sirwan. 8. Sahea-i-Loet — 22 miles. The road rising from the bed of the Sirwan river traverses a range of hills thickly wooded, which divide the plain of Sirwan from the little valley of Badrae. In descending two streams are crossed, beyond the last of which the road crosses 800 ZOHAB TO SHUSTAU. another small range, and then descends into the plain of Lort. This part is describ- ed as the most difficult of the entire distance between Zohab and Shustar, but still is said to be perfectly practicable for wheeled carriages. 9. Seimara — 20 miles south-east. The road goes along the Sahra-i-Lort descending all the way to Seimara on the banks of the Kerkha. Some supplies might be procured here. 10. Pul-i-Gamashan — 14 miles. No description is given of the road, Major Rawlinson having turned off to visit the ruins of Seimai-a. From thence the direct road to Dizful goes down the Kerkha for 24 miles to Ab-i-Garm. 11. Jaidar— 16 miles. The road goes parallel with the Kashghan river the whole way, and is extremely difficult, ascending for 8 miles a steep and rocky pass which is barely practicable for laden mules. The road then descends gradually to the open plain of Jaidar. A road goes from here to Khoramabad, and is the regular Kafila road 10 stages between Dizful and Khoramabad. 12. Ab-i-Gaem— 16 miles. The road first goes for 8 miles along the table-land at the top of the hills through an open country which is all included in the name Jaidar. At the pass which leads down the hills into the valley of the Kerkha, the road joins the high road from Dizful to Khoramabad (the latter place being 60 miles, the country very mountain- ous and difficult, but still practicable for artillery, and forming the usual route by which the Governor of Kirmanshah marches on Khiizistan). The top of these hills is very harren and desolate, and is called the Chul of Jaidar, thence the road descends by the Chul-i-Jaidar pass (the easiest on the entire chain) which is difficult for guns, but might be made practicable in a few days. Prom the foot of the hills the road goes for 4 miles across an undulating plain to the banks of the little stream of Ab-i-Garm at its confluence with the Kerkha. 13. Pt/l-i-tang— 28 miles. The road goes along the bank of the Kerkha and parallel to the great range of Keiliin. 14. Kala-i-Eeza — 19 miles. The road goes away from the river to cross the hills by an easy pass and rejoins it at the ford of Abi-zal whence the stage is 4 miles distant. There is another road which goes along the banks of the Kerkha in 8 miles to the Ab-i-zal, but it is across a most precipitous range of low gypsum hills which are impracticable even for a loaded mule. From the Ab-i-zal the short road to Khoramabad strikes off to the Keiztin pass, where it ascends the mountains and effects a saving of about 40 miles in the distance between Dizful and Khoramabad, but it is so difficult that it is never attempted by Kafilas and not even by travellers accompanied with 15. Huseni — 18 miles. The road throughout goes over soil of soft gypsum, which affords an easy passage for guns. There are however two deep and broad ravines, called Dukhtar-wajih and Tiktiki which are difficult to cross. 16. BALAKtJD— 10 miles. The road is good throughout, leading along an open plain to the stream of Balariid. This river is sometimes very dangerous to cross from the sudden rises it is subject to. 17. DizEtJi. — 24 miles. The road first winds round the low sandhills at the foot of the Kala-i-Jungawan and then enters an immense level flat plain covered with the most beautiful herbage called the Sahra-i-Lur. At 16 miles pass village of Salehabad. There is a direct road to Khoramabad from this side. 18. Kohnak— 16 miles. The road crosses the river of Dizful by a magnificent bridge 330 paces long and enters upon a well cultivated plain. At 8 miles pass Shahabad. 19. Shustar— 20 miles. The road goes over a plain of the richest soil, but perfectly uncultivated. Half-way pass a dry canal and also a little ridge of sand rock whence it descends direct on Shustar. (Rawlinson.) 801 .:■,-,- ■.'■■■■'■.": ? aHSMM f SSJg^J iB?m&ii$£&M£ ^msra - ■ -■:,.■':_ ' ■ : '-- ""■/ ■■--■;"-;r ■■■■;\:--..--v ■- ■■