Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31 9240981 1 8288 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY HANDBOOK KIYEK PLATE EEPUBLICS. COMPEISING BUENOS AYRES AND THE PROVINCES OF THE ARGENTIJfE EBP0BLIC - AND THE EEPUBLICS OF UEU&UAY AND PAEA6UAY. BY M. G. AND E. T. MULHALL, PROPRIETORS AND EDITORS OP THE BUENOS ATBES ' STANDARD.' LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, 6, 7, & 8, CHARING CROSS. BUENOS AYEES: M. G. & E. t. MULHALL, 118, SAN MAETIN. 1875. f I Sir TABLE OF OON' PAOE Intboduotion 1 CHAPTEE I. BrvBB Plate Kepcblics .. .. II Argentine Eepublio 11 Bepublio of Uruguay 12 Republic of Paraguay 13 CHAPTEE II. Argbntimj Republic jg CHAPTEE ni. Rio DE LA Plata AND Tbibdtaeibs 24 Buenos Ayres to Matto Grosso 25 River Paraguay 32 TJp the Uruguay .. 36 I and Vermejo 42 CHAPTEE IV. Colonies OT THE Argentine Republic 45" Esperanza 47 San Geronimo 48 Las Tunas j. 4g Frank 48 San Augnstin . . ; 48 San Carlos 49 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE Corondina 49 Orond .. ' 50 Guadalupe .'. 50 Cavour 50 Humboldt , 50 GruetU 51 Emilia 51 San-Justo 52 Oonde 52 Helvetia / 53 Bstaucia Grande 54 Prancesa 54 New Califomia 54 Welsh 55 Bloisa 56 Alexandra 56 Bemstadt 57 Oaroarani > 58 OaBada Gomez 58 Tortugas 59 Hansa -. . .. 59 Germania . . . . , 59 Nueva Italia . . /. 60 Jesus-Maria 60 Candelaria .. .. 61 Villa Urquiza 61 San Jose.. .. ' 62 Hugues 62 Baradero 62 Concordia 63 Chuput 63 Chivilooy 63 CHAPTER V. BaILWATS AND PUBUO WOBKS 64 Argentine KepubUc 64 Republic of Uruguay 69 Eepublio of Pajaguay .. .. , 69 Telegraphs .. 70 Public Works 70 Tramways .. 71 TABLB OF CONTENTS. V CHAPTEE VI. PAGE The CrrY OF Buenos Aybes , 73 Theatres 76 Banks .. '. ' 76 Plazas ' 78 MarMs, Public Buildings, &o. 89 to 96 Suburbs 97 CHAPTEE- VII. Province OF Buenos Aybes 101 Riverine Partidos 113 , Northern Partidos 116 North and West Frontiers 118 Western Partidos 122 South-Westeru Districts .. .. .. 128 Southern Districts 132 South Coast 135 The Far South 139 CHAPTEE VIII. PEOvmoE OF Santa Fe 154 CHAPTEE IX. Pbovinoe of Cobboba 169 CHAPTEE X. Peovinoe op San Luh ' 186 CHAPTEE XI. Pbovinoe of Mendoza 195 CHAPTEE XII. PEOvmoB of San Juan 207 VI TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTEE XIII. PAGE PaOVINOE OF BlOJA 215 CHAPTEE XIV. PjBOviNOE OF Oatamaboa 221 CHAPTEE XV. Pbovinoe of Jcjjuy 239 CHAPTEE XVI. Pbovince OP Salta 245 CHAPTEE XVII. Pbovinoe of Tucuman 257 CHAPTEE XVIII. Pbovinoe of Santiago .. .. 266 CHAPTEE XIX. Pbovinoe of Coseibntes 273 CHAPTEE XX. Pbovinoe op Entee Rios 293 CHAPTEE XXI. Tberitoeies of Ohaco, Misiones, Pampas, and Patagonia .. .. 305 CHAPTEE XXII. Eepublic of Ubuguat 310 TABLE OF CONTENTS. CHAPTEE XXIII. PAGE CiTT AND Department op Montevideo 333 CHAPTEE XXIV. BcEAL Depaetments 350 Oanelones 350 San Jose ■ ■ ■ 352 Florida .. 353 Durazno 355 Minas Maldonado Cerro Largo . . Taouarembo . , Salto .. .. 356 .. .. 357 361 . .. 365 367 Paysandu Soriano . Colonia . . Pabagtjat .. .. CHAPTEE XXV. 370 . .. 376 .. .. 378 . .. 385 CHAPTEE XXVI. Falkland Islands 401 APPENDIX. Historical record 405 Works published on the River Plate . . . . '. . . . . . . . 407 Argentine trade (1873) 408 Growth of exports (1853-1873) 409 Qrowth of revenue in ten years (compared with Chile) . . ' . . . . 410 Progress during five years of President Sarmiento's administration . . 410 Foreign capital in public debts and joint-stock companies in the Biver Plate 411 TABLE OP CONTENTS. PAGE , weights, measures, and distances 412 Comparative Table of Time 416 Land law at Buenos Ayres 416 Tariffs at Buenos Ayres 417 Argentine agents abroad 418 Foreign Ministers at Buenos Ayres 418 ■ Argentine Customs duties 418 Englisb clergy in the jRiver Plate 418 Salaries of Argentine officials 419 Buenos Ayres tramways 420 Municipality of Buenos Ayres 420 Central prisons, Buenos Ayres . . . . 421 Table of wages, Buenos Ayres 421 Immigration 422 Cordoba Exhibition of 1871 .. 423 Carolina Mine 425 Buenos Ayres new gas works : 426 Statistics of the Kepublic of Uruguay 427 The New World 432 HANDBOOK OP THE RIVER PLATE. INTEODUCTION. The Eiver Plate offers a fine field for immigrants, as is proved by the thousands of Europeans here who have gained fortune and position during the last twenty years. It is, however, absolutely necessary to bear in mind the classes of emigrants most needed in a new country : — 1st. I'arm servants ; unmarried men, of strong constitutions, accustomed to country life, will find immediate employment at 801. per annum, being found in house, provisions, horses, &o. After two or three years, they usually get a flock of sheep with third profits, and ultimately become independent farmers. 2nd. Cooks and housemaids ; unmarried women at once get situations in native or foreign families, at 351. to 551. per annum. They often get married to the above class of sheep-farmers. 3rd. Young married couples ; when unencumbered with family, this class is in greater demand than any other. The husband as sheep-peon or gardener, and the wife as cook. If they hire on an estancia in Buenos Ayres their joint wages may be calculated at 50Z. to 601. per annum, but if they go to Banda Oriental, Entre Eios, or the other provinces, they will earn much more. No passport is required on landing in the Eiver Plate, but if the emigrant has no friends here, it would be well for him to bring a certificate of baptism or other document showing his name and nationality. In receiving letters at the Post Office, taking out a marriage licence, receiving money from home, &c;, B ■i HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEB PLATE. positive proof of identity is required, and as passage tickets are ' often lost, an official document is more valuable. There are fifteen, lines of steamers : — 1. The Boyal Mail Company dispatch a steamer on the morning of the 9th and 24th of every month, from Southampton. Pares — 1st class, 35Z. and upwards ; return tickets, available for twelve months, issued at a fare and a half ; 2nd class, 25Z., good accom- modation. Bed, bedding, plate, and utensils provided for both classes. A reduction of one-sixth is allowed for families of four or more persons travelliiig first-class. The steamer calls at Lisbon, pape Verdes, Bahia, Pernambuco, and Eio Janeiro. The voyage takes twenty-eight days to Montevideo, and twenty- nine to Buenos Ayres. For regulations about luggage, &o., apply to J. M. Lloyd, Esq., 55, Moorgate Street, London, E.G. 2. JTie Messageries Maritimes, or French mail line from Bordeaux, established in 1861, also carry a fortnightly mail, leaving Bordeaux on the 5th and 20th. Few Englishmen come by this line, but if a person wishes to visit Paris en passant he can reach Bordeaux from London in two days. The vessels call at Lisbon, Dakar, Bahia, Pernambuco, and Eio Janeiro : they are similar to the Eoyal Mail steamers. ^ First cabin, including wine, 50Z, Second cabin, 20Z. Office — Messrs. Fletcher and Co., Liverpool, and Messrs. Home, 4, Moorgate Street, iondon. 3. The Liverpool and Biver Plate Mail Company dispatch a mail steamer from Liverpool on the 20th of each month, calling at Lisbon, Bahia, and Eio Janeiro, besides other steamers of this line every fifteen or twenty days. The treatment and accommoda- tion on board are excellent. The line was established in 1863, and in 1868 obtained a mail charter from the British Government. First cabin, 35Z. Second cabin, 25Z. Steerage, 16Z, The 1st and 2nd classes are found in everything; steerage passengers get rations on the emigration dietary scale. Agents — Messrs. Lamport and Holt, 21, Water Street. Eeduction for families. Eeturn ticket, for twelve months, at a fare and a half. INTEODTTCTION. O 4. The Pacific Navigation Company dispatch a fortnightly steamer from Liverpool for Valparaiso, calling at Eio Janeiro and Montevideo ; the voyage to the Eiver Plate is made in twenty-six days, the vessels being constructed for great speed. The Company was established in 1868, and has a subsidy of 12,000Z. per annum from the Chilian Government. Besides the above, there are two lines from Glasgow, two from Havre, one from Hamburgh, one from Bremen, three from Genoa and Marseilles, and one from Naples. We advise the emigrant to provide himseK with an abundant supply of light clothing, not only for the voyage, but because they cost here three times their value in England, and may be introduced duty free." They must be londfide for personal use. A gun or revolver, saddle and equipments, should not be omitted. ' Emigrants bringing money should obtain a letter of credit through, any bank in England, Ireland, or Scotland, on the Loudon and Eiver Plate, 'Mercantile, or Maua Banks of this city and Montevideo. The voyage is usually made in thirty days, the distance being about 7800 statute miles. The outset is often disa- greeable in crossing the Bay of Biscay, but the rest of the voyage is generally delightful, and rough weather is exceed- ingly rare between Lisbon and Eio Janeiro. Lisbon is reached in four days from England. The entrance to the Tagus is highly picturesque. The panorama of the city is most attractive ; a crowd of steamers, war-vessels, and shipping line the quays. We land at the Custom House, in the Terreyro do Pago, or Black-horse Square. The streets of the new town are spacious, the houses six or seven stories high, and all built of stone. The three principal streets, Eua Aurea, Eua Augusta, and Eua da Prata are on the site of the earth- quake of 1755, when most of the old town, with 40,000 inha- bitants, was destroyed. Englishmen usually stop at the Hotel Braganza, which B 2 i HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. surmounts one of the seven hills, and is situated close to the Opera House, in the aristocratic quarter: charge, 8s. a day. It may give some idea of Lisbon to say that it comprises 355 streets, 281 travessas or causeways, 12 plazas, 52 plazuelas, 5 public parks, 6 theatres, 200 churches, and 36 public foun- tains. It contains. over 300,000 inhabitants, and enjoys a fine climate. The traveller should visit the Cathedral, the Abbey of Belen, the Paseo da Estrella, the Aqueduct, and the Opera House. In the coffee-houses may be had capital port wiue at 2s. a bottle. The English book-store is in Eua do Carmo. If the steamer delay more than one day the traveller should take the tramway out to Cintra, 17 miles, one of the most charming spots in the universe. There is now railway communication from Lisbon to Paris, and some people come this way to avoid the Bay of Biscay. The route is this — Paris to Bordeaux, 12 hours ; Bordeaux to Madrid, 20 hours ; Madrid to Badajoz, 16 hours ; Badajoz to Lisbon, 15 hours. Between Madrid and Lisbon the traveller had better carry provisions. Pour days from Lisbon we pass the Canary Isles, the Peak of Teneriffe risiug to a height of 11,000 feet. The late Marshal O'Donnell was bom here. The islands produce good wine and fruits. Lord Nelson fought one of his battles here. Lamport and Holt's steamers sometimes call at Madeira, a very pleasant halt for passengers. The Cape Verde Islands are made in seven days from Lisbon. San Antonio is fertile and mountainous ; opposite to it is the Island of St. Vincent, the most 'barren spot on the world's surface ; sundry bold ranges of mountains, but not a particle of vegetation. The port is spacious and secure ; on one side a small port flying the Portuguese flag ; on another, the summit of an adjacent mountain bears a resemblance to the head of Washington. Mr. Miller has a cottage a little above the town, which is a straggling collection of about, a hundred houses. On the beach is the grave of an English colonel's wife, who died returning from India. The water is so clear and blue that INTRODUCTION. the natives will dive for a shilling, and catch it before it reaches the bottom. The boatmen sell mats and inlaid work- boxes, which come from Madeira. There is a good supply of fruit from the Island of San Antonio. The garrison of the place consists of a company of Portuguese soldiers. The natives are all black, and occupy themselves in coaling the steamers. From St. Vincent to the Brazils the sea is always as smooth as a mill-pond, and the heat is of course intense, crossing the Line. You see myriads of flying-fish, and now and then a shark, or a shoal of porpoises, or the tiny little nautilus. At night the sea is phosphorescent, and the constellation of the Southern Cross reminds us that we are in a new hemisphere. Passengers should beware of catching cold, and on no account sleep on deck. If they continue their usual morning bath they win find it very relarLug, the sea-water being actually warmer than the atmosphere. Fernando Noronha is sighted on the seventh day from St. Vincent. It is a small rocky island, used by the Brazilians as a penal settlement, and has a lighthouse. As we approach the coast of Brazil we see numbers of birds, and the first Jand visible is Cape San Koque, a bold headland, 200 miles north of Pemambuco. Pernambuco is the worst port in the world. The mail steamers lie out far to sea, and there is a nasty reef near the shore. When the weather is at all rongh, passengers are lowered over the side in an arm chair. There are sudden changes in the weather about 1 p.m., which render it difficult and dangerous for passengers to return aboard. Bathers had better look out here, for sharks are numerous. The city has about 100,000 inhabitants, including a few English, and does a great business with England and other countries in coffee, cotton, &e. From Pernambuco to Bahia the voyage occupies thirty-six hours. The overland journey would take as many days, there being no road through the forests. The distance is imder 500 miles. In these waters we meet a number of " catamarans," the 6 HANDBOOK OF THE BIVEE PLATE. strangest kind of craft ; tiey sometimes venture over 100 miles from shore. Bahia, or San Salvador, is the oldest city in Brazil, and next in importance after Eio Janeiro. The bay is very fine ; the city stretches along a hill-side, vdth numerous churches and other massive buildings. The suburb called Victoria is the residence of the English merchants, embowered ip gardens, and enjoying the fresh breeze from the Atlantic. On landing the traveUef finds a host of palanquins ready to carry him up the hill. The heat is so great that the best plan is to take a coach and four mules. Drive first to the Botanical Gardens, whence a splendid view is obtained. Then see the old Jesuit Cathe- dral, the Government House, Eailway Terminus, and Post Office : if you have time to drive to the head of the bay, near the Portuguese hospital, it will repay the trquble. More than three-fourths of the inhabitants are coloured, and the city is so filthy that foul odours assail one on, all sides. There is an excellent coffee-house opposite the Post Office. There is an English cricket club here. Bahia boasts the largest oranges and the fattest black women in South America. Eio Janeiro is about 800 miles from Bahia, and the voyage takes nearly three days. The entrance to the Bay of Eio is the grandest picture that ever delighted the eye of man : grand, solemn, and imposing. At every instant, as the steamer ad- vances into the bay, the scene changes like a kaleidoscope, the mountains seem to move one behind the other, and to change entirely in shape, till we get in full view of the city, with the Organ Mountains in the back-ground, and the middle distance occupied by sundry islands bristling with batteries. The Sugar-loaf is the most striking feature. The peak of Santa Cruz is on the right, overlooking a fort of a hundred guns. All the navies in the world might ride at anchor in this bay, which is 100 miles round. Small steamboats are plying in all directions, to the suburbs along the water-line. The steamer comes to her moorings alongside Coal Island. INTRODUCTION. I The landing-place is close to the market. In coining ashore we notice the Arsenal, where some of the ironclads were built for the Paraguayan war. The houses are high, the streets as narrow as those of Genoa, and the shops very small, but rich. The vehicles are drawn by mules. Black Servants in livery abound. The best hotels are the Exchange, Carson's, and Estran- geiros. The Plaza Constituoion is a very handsome square, with fountains, and in the'centre is an equestrian statue of Peter I., the founder of the Brazilian monarchy. A little farther is another plaza, where the Lyric Theatre, Senate House, and other buildings claim notice. As we get to the outskirts we see the reservoir of the grand aqueduct of Tijuca. The pleasantest excursion from Eio is to Tijuca, situate in the mountains, about twelve miles inland, by tramway from San Francisco Square every half-hour. Numerous charming cot- tages, among gardens and orange-groves, occupy the line of route as we ascend towards Tijuca. The road winds round a succession of precipices, discl9sing at every point the most enchanting views. The English Hotel is at a great height; the proprietor is Mr. Whyte. It would be difficult to find anything to surpass the neatness and comfort of this house. Mr. Whyte gets up pic-nic parties to all the finest points of scenery in the lovely neighbourhood. After seeing Tijuca, make a trip to Petropolis : in steamboat, 14 miles across the bay ; the Baron Maua's railway, 16 miles, and the rest by diligence. The ascent of the Sierra da Estrella, a branch of the Organ Mountains, is most picturesque. The road is a triumph of engineering, the mountain side being almost per- pendicular. Petropolis, embosomed in the mountains, at a height of 2600 feet above the sea, is the supimer residence of the BrazUian Court and aristocracy. The Emperor's palace is not unlike an Italian viUa. From Petropolis drive to Luiz da Fora. Eeturn to Eio by Entre Eios railway. The great attraction in Eio is the Botanical Garden, with an avenue of palms that has no match in the world. The drives 8 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEB PLATE. around by Botafogo, Larangeiras, La Gloria, &c., are very beautiful, and tramways ply every half-iour from the Sfl[uare adjoining the Emperor's palace. In the shops of Eua Ouvidor wUl be found feather-flowers; beetles, jewellery, and such like articles. The English Consulate, is in the Eua Direita, Consul Mr. George Lennon Hunt, who is also agent for the Eoyal Mail ' steamers. The Exchange and Post Office are in the same street as the Consulate and Exchange Hotel. Erom Eio to Montevideo takes four or five days, according to the weather. Pamperos.are not uncommon on this coast. Ear out to sea, before seeing land, we can perceive the efiect of the waters of the Eiver Plate, changing the colour of the ocean. Maldonado is situate at the mouth of the river, and a profitable seal fishery is carried on at Lobos Island. Montevideo, capital of the Eepublic of Uruguay, as seen from the bay, looks to advantage, the towers of the Matriz Church, and the Custom House and Caridad Hospital being conspicuous. The best hotels are the Oriental and Americano, charge 83 ,per day. Strangers are admitted to the Club. The Eev. Mr. Hoskin reads Divine service at eleven o'clock on Sundays, at the English , church. Major Munro is British Consul. The steamers leave Montevideo in the evening and arrive at the outer roads of Buenos Ayres by daybreak. The minarets, church towers, and cupolas give a light and fantastic appear- ance to the city, which, seated some 80 feet above the western shore of La Plata, extends about 2 miles along the water's edge. Passengers are usually landed in a little steamboat, but faUing this it will be necessary to take a whaleboat (McLean's are the best), and be sure to bargain with the boatman before leaving the ship : his charge wiU depend on the wfeather, say K20 to ^50 a head. On no account let any of your luggage be separated from you. You will be assailed by an impetuous gang of porters ; pick out one of them, count for him the number of your trunks, and let him get others to help him if he like. At the Eesguardo, near INTEODUOTION. 3 the end of the mole, open your trunk for examination; you will find the officials most polite. If you have cigars, sUt, jewellery, or firearms, declare the same. On arriving at your hotel, if you have any difficulty with the porters about your luggage, ask the landlord to settle with them. You will find the hotels very cheap and good, the charge for bed and board not exceeding eight sliillings a day. Lock your room whenever you go out, leaving the key with the porter : lock it also at night. If any of your, trunks have been detained at the Eesguardo or sent to the Custom House, lose no time to employ Mr. McLean,, or some other broker, to clear them fdr you. The change of climate will oblige you to be careful as to your manner of living. Eise early, take a cold bath every morning, beware of walking about much in the sun, and re- member that there are frequent changes of temperature even in one day. Flannel singlets, light clothing, and a straw hat are advisable in summer months. At all seasons the -mornings are frequently cold, necessitating warm clothing. Be very careful of a cut finger or other trifling wound, which must be kept closely bandaged : many cases of lockjaw occur from a mere scratch not attended to. It is very bad to drink much cold water. The most wholesome drink at breakfast or dinner is Trench wine, for which no charge is made in- the hotels. As soon as convenient after arrival you may call at the Standard office, 118, Calle San Martin, where the editors will give you any advice in their power. Letters from home may also be directed to their care free of charge. Poor emigrants looking for employment have advertisements inserted gratis. ' The currency in Buenos Ayres is ^122^ to the 11. sterling, making the paper dollar equivalent to 2d. : the National Bank money is in hard dollar notes of 50d. each. In the upper pro- vinces the currency is Bolivian dollars, worth 3s. English. In Montevideo the dollar is worth &2d., the sovereign changing for g4 70c. Distances are reckoned by the Spanish league, nearly 3^ miles English. Weights, by arrobes of 25 lbs. 10 HANDBOOK OP THE BIVEB PLATE. English, or quintals of 100 lbs. weight, and measures are alike aU over the Eiver Plate, but in Paraguay the league is only 5000 varas, or about 2^ miles. A square league of ground is nearly 6600 acres : in Buenos Ayres it is divided into 1660 manzanas or cuadras (say 4 acres each), and in Eanda Oriental into 3600 cuadras of less than 2 acres each. ( 11 ) CHAPTEE I. THE BIVEE PLATE EBPUBLIOS. The Eiver Plate Eepublics are three in number, viz. : tlie Argentine Confederation (or La Plata, properly so called), Uruguay or Banda Oriental, and Paraguay. These immense territories, formerly comprehended in the viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres under the Spanish regime, cover nearly 1,400,000 square miles, with a scanty population not reaching three millions, or two inhabitants per square mile. The mineral and agricultural resources of these countries are perhaps equal to those of the United States, and the water system is almost unrivalled, the affluents of the Plate ramifying one-half of the Continent. The climate is the healthiest on the face of the globe, the inhabitants are very friendly to foreigners, civil and religious liberty pre- vail in the fullest sense, and treaties of amity and commerce have been concluded with aU. the great Powers. Trade relations and new enterprises of importance have brought the Eiver Plate into close contact with Great Britain and the Lond,on capitalists, and there are few countries which offer more induce- ments to English emigrants than these, or few foreign nations viewed with more respect, by Argentines, than Great Britain. The Argentine Bepuhlic is for the most part an unbroken plain, bounded on the north by Bolivia, on the west by the Cordillera of the Andes, on the south by Magellan's Straits, and on the east by Brazil, Banda Oriental, and the Atlantic. It is divided into fourteen provinces, some of which are little deserving of note, but others have attained a high degree of civilization ; and also comprehends Patagonia and the Gran Chaco. The province of Buenos Ayres is nearly equal to all the 12 HANDBOOK or THE EIVEB PLATE. rest collectively, in importance, wealth, and population, being moreover the great centre of foreign immigration. The city of the same name is the seat of the National and Provincial Go- vernments, and one of the principal seaports of South America. In the refinement of its society, progressive spirit of the people, and activity of trade and industry, it yields to no other city in the Continent, and has earned the title of " Athens of South America." Entre Eios and Santa Fe have of late attracted much notice as sheep-farming countries. Cordoba, the heart of the interior, has received a great impulse from the Central Argentine Eailway. San Juan and Catamarca are remarkable for their mineral wealth. Mendoza, at the foot of the Cordillera, formerly the chief city of the Cuyo provinces, has emerged from the ruins of the earthquake of 1861. Santiago and the other northern provinces have been hitherto so isolated as to be almost valueless, but the navigation of the Vermejo, and the new narrow-gauge railways will unite them, through Cordoba and Eosario, with the river Paran4, the great artery of the Eepublic. The provinces called Literal, from being adjacent to this river, have an immense advantage over the rest, possess- ing cheap freight and easy transit to Buenos Ayres and the commercial world. The population of the Eepublic by the census of September, 1869, was 1,836,490, but is now much over that estimate. The established religion is Eoman Catholic, and the language Spanish, from which nation the original settlers were descended. The Repvhlic of JJrugnay, or " Banda Oriental," is separated from the last -mentioned country by the Eivers Plate and Uruguay: the Plate, opposite Buenos Ayres, being 28 miles wide. It is very different from the sister state, in being intersected with numerous chains of mountains, called here Cuchillas or Sierras. Its extent is 63,000 square miles, or larger than England by one-eighth. Many of the general features are similar to those of La Plata, the country being eminently adapted for sheep and cattle farming, and, moreover, free from THE BIVBK PLATE EEPUBLICS. 13 Indian incursions. The capital, Montevideo, is favourably situated near the mouth of the Plate, and its commerce is almost equal- to that of Buenos Ayres, from which port it is distant 120 miles. The next towns of importance are — Salto and Paysandu, on the river Uruguay ; Canelones, Tacuaremb6, and Minas, in the interior ; Mercedes, on the Eio Negro ; Colonia, abreast of Buenos Ayres; and Maldon^do, on the Atlantic. The country is thickly wooded in parts, and presents a beauti- fully diversified appearance. Of late years there has been an influx of immigrants, and several Buenos Ayrean land-owners also possess estancias on this side. The population was quin- tupled in the forty years from 1824-64, and is now returned as 454,000. During past years the country was desolated by civil war, but everything now seems satisfactorily settled. Paraguay is not always coimted one of the Eiver Plate Eepublics, being over 1000 miles inland, but it was formerly a part of the viceroyalty of La Plata. It is the country least known of this Continent, and yet had made great advancement in the years just preceding the late war. Up to 1840 it was entirely closed against foreigners, under the rule of the sangui- nary tyrant, D. Gaspar Francia. EaUways, telegraphs, arsenal, dry docks, and other splendid works sprung up under Lopez, employing a large and efficient staff of English mechanics.! The Eepublio covers about 70,000 square miles. The census of 1857 gave a population of 1,337,449, which was probably exaggerated : the destruction caused by the war was such, that there are now hardly 100,000 inhabitants. The climate is warm, the country hilly and picturesque, and the soil fertile. The - inhabitants are the most industrious in South America, the amount of land under cereals, cotton, and tobacco formerly amounting to half a million of acres. The chief product of the country is yerba-mate or Paraguay tea, which, in time of peace, is annually exported (mostly to Buenos Ayres) to the value of 200,0002. The cultivation of cotton was begun in 1863, but interrupted by the war. The capital, Asuncion, is a town of 14 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVBK PLATE. 25,000 inhabitants, in weekly coimnmiication by steamer with the Eiver Plate. Villa ' Eiea is the most important town in the interior, and those next in order are situated on the river Paraguay. The language of the country is Guarahi, most of the people being descended from that race of Indians by inter- marriage with the Spanish settlers. ( 15 ) CHAPTEK II. THE AKGBNTINE EEPHBLIC. Among South American nations this country is second only to Brazil in extent and importance, being far ahead of all the sister republics in trade, commerce, railways, telegraphs, revenue, literature, schools, and the number of European settlers; it likewise surpasses BrazU in all but the returns of trade and national revenue, while its climate and soil are the most favoured of thfe habitable globe. Although emancipated from the Spanish yoke in 1816, the real independence of the country may be said to date from the fall of the Dictator Eosas in 1852, and the progress made during the last twenty-one years is hardly sur- passed by any of the most flourishing nations of the present day. ' The Eepublic comprises fourteen provinces, with an aggregate population of 1,736,923, according to the census of 1869, and an area of 600,000 square miles ; besides three vast territories ex- tending over an equal area, and whose population is roughly estimated at .100,000, chiefly Indians. PKOVUfOES. Sq. Miles. Buenos Ayres . . . . 45,000 Cordoba 70,000 EntreEios .. .. 40,000 Santiago 35,000 Corrientes 40,000 Tuouman 20,000 Santa F6 36,000 Salta 50,000 Catamaroa 76,000 Mendoza 50,000 Carried forward .. 462,000 Population. 495,107 210,508 184,271 182,898 129,028 108,958 89,117 88,983 79,962 65,413 1,534,185 1'6 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEE PLATE. , Peovinces — continued. Brought forward . . San Juan San Luis Kioja Jujuy Sq. Miles. 462,000 33,000 40,000 35,000 30,000 Teeeitokies. GranChaco .. .. 150,000 Pampas 150,000 Patagonia 300,000 1,200,000 Population. 1,534,185 60,319 53,294 48,746 40,379 .. 50,000 .. 30,000 .. 20,000 .. 1,836,923 Some of the above provinces have doubled their population in less than twenty years, as Buenos Ayres, Entre Bios, and Santa F^ ; the others in less than thirty years ; the returns of the Census Commissioners putting down the following estimates, exclusive of Indians : 1849 935,000 inhabitants. 1859 .. 1,804,000 „ ^ 1869 1,736,923 Of the last number one-eighth were forei^ers, and if the children of these were included it would appear that foreign residents formed one-third of the entire population. The official returns class the various foreign nationalities thus : Italians 71,442 Spaniards 34,080 French 32,383 English 10,709 Germans and Swiss 10,857 S.Americans 42,112 N. Americans ./ 1,551 Various 8,859 211,993 In some of the upper provinces there is but one inhabitant to the square mile ; the proportion in Cordoba is three, in Tucuman THE AEGENTINB EBPUBLIC. 17. five, and in Buenos Ayres ten. Taking the fourteen provinces together, there are three inhabitants to the square mile ; but if we include the total area of the Republic it will be only IJ, or a hundred times less than is usual in Europe. The Argentine Republic, extending from the foot of the Andes to the Atlantic, and from the limits of Bolivia and Brazil to the Straits, of Magellan, presents for the most part an un- broken plain, with every variety of soil, where fruits of the tropical or temperate zones are readily cultivated, the country being traversed for thousands of miles by the great riverine systems of the Parana and Uruguay, with their numerous tribu- taries. These also form convenient highways for commerce, the Parand and its afSuents being navigated by steamers in a straight line for over two thousand miles from the niouth, near Buenos Ayres, to Matto Grosso. The Gran Chaco is said to possess more timber than the whole of Europe. The mineral resources of Catamarca, Eioja, San Juan, San Luis, Mendoza, and Cordoba are inexhaustible, especially in silver, lead, and copper, which wUl become staple articles of export as soon as the railways now in construction open up the interior. The products of mineral or industrial interest sent to the Paris Exhibition of 1867 were rewarded with no fewer than nineteen medals. Wool, hides, and tallow constitute the staple products which we export to foreign countries, the sheep-farms of Buenos Ayres alone counting 60,000,000 sheep ; the annual yield of wool is more than 200,000,000 lbs., bfeing somewhat higher than the total clip of Australia. The growth of this business during ten years is shown as follows : Lba. 1862, export of wool 58,153,575 1866 - „ 116,494,970 1872 „ 203,610,000 The shipments from Buenos Ayres in 1873 showed an increase of 24,709 bales over 1872.* * Note. — The latest statistics for 1873^ wiU be found in Appendix. 18 HAMBBOOK OP THE EIVBE PLATE. The gross trade of the country doubles ia less than ten years ; the aggregate value of imports and exports having risen from ^45,000,000 in 1862 to ^66,000,000 in 1866, and ^105,000,000 in 1872, this last sum being equal to 21,000,000?. sterliug. The British Board of Trade returns show that English commerce with the Elver Plate has increased, twice as rapidly as with the British Colonies in general. The balance of trade has steadily improved of late years, as the figures show : Imports. Exports. S ' s 1870 46,624,776 .. .. 26,753,203 as 9 to 5 1871 39,893,000 .. .. 23,442,543 as 5 to 3 1872 60,229,143 .. .. 45,743,192 as 4 to 3 There was a falling-off in 1871, caused by the yellow fever; but since then the growth of trade has been steady, the returns fqr 1873 showing considerable excess over the previous year. The bulk of our imports comes from England and Fiance, the figures being as follow : » From England 19 millions. „ France 16 „ Spain 4 „ Brazil 3J „ United States 3| „ Italy 3 „ Belgium 3 „ Germany 2 „ Various 6 60 millions. Belgium takes the foremost rank among customers for our produce, as we ship most of our wool to Antwerp. Sheepskins go chiefly to France, hides and tallow to England and North America, jerked beef to Brazil and Cuba, live cattle to Chile. These various items represent the following values : THE ABGBNTINB EEPUBLIO. 19 $ f uei-tefi. Woo^ 203,610,000 lbs. .. . . 16,352,122 Sheepskins 72,970,000 lbs. .. . . 4,158,864 Ox aod cow hides .. 3,121,758 .. . . 10,571,710 Jerked beef 916,220 qq .. . . 2,110,914 Tallow 1,182,240 qq .. . . 7,427,901 Live horned cattle . . 162,428 .. '. . 1,600,609 Other animals 58,856 .. . 335,799 Minerals 13,540 qq .. . 310,179 Bones, skins, horns . . . . 2,718,206 Hay, tobaoeo, flour, &o. . 156,888 45,743,192 The returns of 1872 stow 41 per cent, more wool than in 1870, and 24 per cent, increase in the number of hides. The Customs report shows that Buenos Ayres stands for 82 per cent, of the Eepublic, Santa Fe 11, Entre Eios 5, and the other provinces 2 per cent., as regards revenue. The growth of our revenue in ten years has been much greater than in Chile : Argentine. (Thile. 1863 .. .. 6,478,682 .. .. 6,700,659 1866 .. .. 9,568,551 .. .. 6,097,111 ' 1869 .. .. 12,676,680 .. .. 11,484,806 1872 .. .. 18,172,379 .. .. 13,843,000 The movement in shipping shows a still more surprising increase ; the returns of tonnage in arrivals and sailings of sea- going vessels are : 1870 1,520,706 tons. 1871 1,217,175 „ 1872 2,151,640 „, " The last is nearly one-fifth the gross tonnage returns of all the French ports (11,921,000 tons), whereas France has eighteen times our population. There are thirteen regular lines of steamers from Europe to Buenos Ayres : Eoyal Mail 6 steamers. Lamport and Holt 26 „ Belgian 12 „ Glasgow .. .. 2 „ Hamburg 5 „ Three Qenoa lines 12 „ Five French lines 25 „ 2 20 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVBE PLATE. Besides the foregoing are the Liverpool Pacific liners to Montevideo, which bring us thousands of passengers. The Budget for 1874 amounts to ^23,500,000, nearly 5,000,000Z« sterling, and is made up thus : Interest on public debt .. 7,801,602 equal to 1,560,000 Floating debt 3,500,000 „ 700,000 Customs officials 1,452,215 „ 300,000 President and Cabinet.. .. 210,369 „ 45,000 Congress . 490,088 „ 100,000 Army '. 5,178,515 „ 1,040,000 Navy 298,437 „ 60,000 Indian subsidies 223,556 „ 45,000 Legations abroad 158,149 „ 33,000 Federal Court .. .. .. 150,036 „ 31,000 Ecclesiastical grant . . . . 182,588 „ 38,000 Schools and libraries .. .. 1,500,519 „ 310,000 Finance offices 376,816 „ 80,000 Bailways 219,070 „ 45,000 Immigi-ation 226,225 „ 46,000 PostOfficd 352,220 „ 72,000 Telegraphs 252,660 „ 52,000 Slibsidies to provinces . . . . 225,000 „ 45,000 Public works, &c 623,328 „ 130,000 $23,421,392 „ £4,732,000 The ways and means consist of : Import duties 15,750,000 Export ditto 2,700,000 Warehouse fees 600 000 Stamps 350,000 Post Office 180,000 Telegraphs 100,000 Lighthouses, &c 100,000 Interest on Varela loan funds 420,000 Ditto on C. Arg. EE. shares 232,000 Treasury bills 2,989,392 $23,421,392 equal to 8,200,000 550,000 130,000 75,000 38,000 21,000 21,000 90,000 47,000 560,000 £4,732,000 THE AEGBNTINE EKPUBLIO. '21 In 1873 President Sarmiento congratulated Congress on a surplus of ^4,778,449, or nearly 1,000,000Z. sterling, the revenue having yielded ^2,000,000 over the estimates, and the expen- diture being less. The National Debt in January, 1874, stood thus : 1st. The Home debt, commenced in 1863, amounted to g20,933,976 ftes., equal to 4,186,795Z. sterling, viz.: $ftes. Total emissions to date , 25,995,423| Amount amortized 5,061,417 Actual Home debt 20,933,976J The following table shows the items thus : 3sion, Amortized. Balance. $ ftes. $ ftes. $,fte8. Buschenthal.. .. 2,674,823i 1,007,059 1,667,764| National Bonds .. 21,714,600 3,968,388 17,746,212 Koads and bridges 1,248,000 86,000 1,162,000 National Bank .. 358,000 .. 358,000 25,995,423i 5,061,447 20,933,9761 The amount paid for interest during eleven years was ^8,853,924, say 1,770,785Z. sterling. 2nd. The Foreign debt, as follows : £ London loan of 1826 1,770,100 Ditto of 1865 2,209,100 Ditto of 1871 5,688,698 Foreign claims 351,523 £10,019,421 Thus the total debt is 871,000,000, or about ^35 per head of the population, which is much less than the annual average of exported produce. The regular army of the Eepublic consists of 9000 men, em- ployed mostly on the Indian frontiers at Mendoza, Eio Quinto, Kojas, Azul, and other stations, besides a small garrison at 22. HANDBOOK 01' THE EIVEB PLATE. Buenos Ayres, and others scattered through the provinces. The National Guards are seldom, called out, but their muster- roll numbers 150,000 men, of whom 40,000 are in the province of Buenos Ayres. The navy consists of some newly-constructed ironclads and a few old steamers. Public instruction has made wonderful progress, the late President Sarmiento and his minister Avellaneda having almost doubled the number of schools : the returns show 1645 public schools and 103,000 children attending school, the largest pro- portion in any country of South America. The above figures include* 4000 boys receiving university education at the national colleges. The provinces of San Juan and Mendoza have sudcessively won the Congress prize of ^10,000 for having one-tenth of their population at school. The census of 1867 showed that 312,011 inhabitants could read and, write, or about one-fourth of the adult population. In Buenos Ayres the ratio is four times greater than in Santiago del Estero, three times greater than Tucuman or Jujuy, and about double the rest of the provinces, of which the highest are Santa Fe, Entre Eios, San Juan, and Cordoba. There are 120 free libraries in the Eepublic. The farming stock of the fourteen provinces may be roughly set down at fifteen mUlion homed cattle, four million horses, and eighty million sheep. Buenos Ayres stands for three- fourths of the sheep, and half the cows and horses. Santa Pe and Entre Rios come next in importance. The value of all this live stock cannot fall short of 30,000,000?., yielding about 9,000,000Z. per annum in exported produce. Immigration and agriculture have increased so rapidly in the - last ten years that we do not any longer import American flour or other cereals, but raise enough for our entire population. Immigration now averages 90,000 arrivals yearly, and the ■prosperity of immigrant settlers is shown by the ratio of depositors according to the various nationalities in the Pro- vincial Bank of Buenos Ayres. THE ARGENTINE BBPUBLIO. 23 Depositors. Amount. Argentines 18 .. .. 27 Italians 30 .. .. 20 Englisli 4 .. .. 14 Spaniards 13 .. •■ 10 Basques 13 .. .. 9 French 9 .. .. 8 Germans 4 .. .. 6 Various 9 •■ •• 6 I 100 .. .. 100 Thus it is seen tiat of 17,000, depositors nearly 14,000 are European artisans or settlers, the average deposit to each being about 300Z. sterling. There are ten railways open to traffic, with an aggregate length of nearly 1000 miles. There are also five lines in active course of construction, making up 636 miles ; without counting many already con- ceded, to a length of nearly 3000 miles, but not yet commenced. There are 6000 miles of telegraph through the provinces. The city of Buenos Ayres has over 80 miles of tramways, besides short lines in most of the principal towns of the Eepublic. The form of government is similar to that of the United States. The President resides at Buenos Ayres, and each pro- vince has its own governor and local legislature. There are eighteen towns of note in the provinces, viz. Cordoba, Bosario, Tucuman, Salta, Corrientes, Santa Fe, Parand, Gualeguaychii, San Juan, Mendoza, Santiago, Gualeguay,Concepcion, Catamarca, Concordia, Eioja, San Luis, and Jujuy, with their respective banks, national colleges, free libraries, and other institutions. 24 HANDBOOK OF THE RIVER PLATE. CHAPTER III. EIO DE LA PLATA AND TRIBUTARIES. The Eiver Plate is one of the greatest rivers in the world, including its two great tributaries, the Parand and Uruguay. Suffice it to say that' the traveller can take steamer at Monte- video and ascend . without interruption to the capita], of Matto Grosso, a distance of over 2000 miles. At Montevideo the river is about 65 miles wide, but the water is brackish: at Buenos Ayres the water is quite fresh, and the river is 28 miles wide. Twenty miles above Buenos Ayres we arrive at the junction of the ParanI, and Uruguay. The Lower ParanA is about 900 miles long from its embouchure, near San Fernando, up to the Tres Bocas, above Corrientes : the Upper Faran4, from the Tres Bocas to the Salto de Guayra, is only navigable for small boats. The Paraguay river, which debouches into the Parana at Tres Bocas, is navigable as far as the Cuyaba : on this latter stream is built a city of the same name, residence of the Brazilian authorities of Matto Grosso, about 1100 miles above the city of Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay. The Uruguay is ordinarily navigable only as high as Salto, but in flood times the steamers ascend the rapids and go up to Uruguayana and San Borja, in the Brazilian province of Rio Grande. The Rio Negro is one of the chief affluents of the Uruguay ; the Salado of the Parana ; and the Vermejo, Tebicuari, and Pilcomayo fall into the Paraguay. The average depth of the River Plate is 18 feet, greatest 36 feet, with a bottom of fine sand. The tide rises and falls regularly at Buenos Ayres, although the river is sometimes affected by strong winds. The South Atlantic tidal wave, twice every 24 hours, ascends the Plata and is perceptible for over KIO DE LA PLATA AND TKIBTTTABIES. 23 100 miles up tte Parana and Uruguay. It travels 258J miles in 11 hours 45 minutes ; it is ahout 16 inches at Buenos Ayres, the medium depth of water to Las Palmas being 10 feet, dis- tance 64 miles, and ascends the Palmas 55 miles at the rate of 19 miles an hour : average depth of Palmas 38| feet. At new or full moon it is always high water at Buenos Ayres ; generally when the moon is on the horizon it is high' water, and low when she passes meridian. Soundings in the port of Buenos Ayres vary from 15 to 22^ feet. The mean current of the Eiver Plate seems to be 118 feet per minute on the surface, 103 at four feet depth, and 41 at the bottom. a?HE PARANA. Buenos Ayres to Matto Orosso. There is a regular Brazilian monthly mail-service from Monte- video to Cuyaba, making the trip in ten to twelve days. Various companies have steamers running from Buenos Ayres to Cor- rientes and Paraguay. The scenery has much of interest for the traveller, although at times the coast is low and marshy. The Parana has a larger volume of water than all the rivers of Europe put together. If we leave the roadstead of Buenos A3rre8 on a fine morning, nothing can be more charming than the panorama of the city and suburbs. We pass, in succession, Palermo with its planta- tions to the water's edge ; Belgrano, seated on a gentle acclivity ; Point Olivos, a handsome promontory, where a new town has been projected ; San Isidro, with its deligjitful country-seats ; and San Fernando, at the head of the estuary of La Plata. We enter the Parana by one of its many mouths, the best known of which are the Guazii and Palmas : the latter is the shorter route, used by small steamers which touch at Zarate and San Pedro. The delta of the Parana comprises a multitude of fertile and picturesque islands, planted with fruit trees ; and if the traveller halts at San Fernando or the Tigre, he can 26 HANDBOOK OF THE BIVEE PLATE. amuse himself for several days by boating in the Conchas and Lujan rivers, or making an excursion to the Carapachay islands. These islands are termed the Argentine Tempo ; they teem with wild-fowl and the richest fruits, and a number of Italian char- coal-burners are the principal inhabitants. We do not get a glimpse of , the mainland till reaching Campana, the estancia of Dr. Costa, who has built a fine house on the blufif. Here is the terminus of the Eiver Parana or Port Campana Eailway, in course of construction. Zarate is a straggling village of 1000 inhabitants, with a small trade in grain, firewood, and vegetables. There is a new church, also a tolerable Basque inn, and two public schools.' During the Paraguayan war this was the chief port for ship- ment of horses. Baradero : this is another small port, compjising 105 houses, a church, and school-house. The place derives some importance from a flourishing Swiss colony. San Pedro is a better town, and looks well from the river ; it has a new church and two public schools. Mr. Eevy made Government surveys here for a port, the Parand forming a kind of lagoon with an anchorage area of 312 acres, the minimum depth 18 feet at low water. Vessels drawing 20 feet can at all times ascend from the Atlantic to San Pedro. A little above San Pedro is the pass of Obligado, where the English and French cut the chain placed across the river by Eosas. Higher up is the fine estancia of Llavallol, at a point of the river called Eincon de Las Henuanas, after which we pass the Eincon Eamallo. San Nicolas, 40 miles above Obligado, is the last town in the territory of Buenos Ayres; it is a place of some importance, having received the rank of " city," with a population of about 8000 souls. It has 300 rateable houses, besides Mr. Armstrong's valuable mill. It is the centre of a district which comprises sixty-five estancias, and a number of chacras under wheat. At San Nicolas the river is 4787 feet wide, 72 feet greatest - KIO DE LA PLATA AND TRIBUTABIBS. 27 depth, current 255;J feet per mimite (say three miles an hour), the Parana being here an undivided stream. Bosario is 35 miles above San Nicolas, or 202 from Martin Garcia, being the largest town on the Parana, 80 feet above the river. Vessels drawing 15 feet can always ascend this far. The river often rises here 12 feet, this- rise being permanent at least three months, sometimes for two years in succession. It is a well-built town covering 150 cuadras or blocks, with a popula- tion of 23,169 souls. The plaza, parish church, Custom House, market-place, and Jardin de Eecreo, are worthy of notice : the theatre was recently rebuilt. The railway terminus and work- shops at the north end will repay a visit. The town also pos- sesses two mills, three saladeros, two cemeteries (for Catholics and Protestants),' a public hospital, an American chapel and school, tramway, and gas-works. There are some good hotels and coffee-houses. Mr. Perkins, superintendent of the central Argentine colonies, will give strangers any information they may require. Mr. Lewis Joel is H.B.M. Consul. Excursions may he made by rail to the colony, of Bernstadt, or on horse- back to the fine English estancias in the valley of Pavon. About six leagues above Bosario we sight the edifice of San Lorenzo, with its large convent. Diamante, 70 miles above Eosario, is the beginning of the mainland on the Entre Eios side, forming a bluff 200 feet high called Pijinta Gorda, from which the delta of the Parang downwards begias. For hun- dreds of miles this bluff continues, while on the opposite, or Santa Fe, side are innumerable islands in succession. , The Entre Eios bluff shows the three geological strata, of which the upper or Pampean is encrusted with fossils of giant mammalia. The approach to Parand is highly picturesque — towering bluffs of red sandstone, here and there relieved by a wild furze of deep green. There are several Hme-kilns along the Entre Eiano coast. Parand was the capital of the Argentine Eepublic during nine years, from the fall of Eosas tiU the battle of Pavon (September 17, 1861). The Custom. House is at the foot of the " barranca," 28 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVBB PLATE, and a steep road leads up to the town : the population does not exceed 8000. The Grand Plaza is very pretty, the buildings having been constructed under Presidents Urquiza and Derqui. The former Legislative Chambers occupy the north side : the President's palace also merits attention. Parana is 35 miles above Diamante, and is accessible at all times to sea-going vessels of 12 feet draught. The bluff of the Entre Eios line is 120 feet high. A steamer plies across the river to Santa Fe city, remarkable for its antiquity and many fine churches. A number of islands intervene, completely shutting it out from view. Five leagues from Parand we sight the colony of Villa Urquiza, where great efforts were made to plant cotton in 1864. Two hours' sail brings us to a place called Conchillas. The river now breaks into a variety of channels. We cannot see the Gran Chaco, from which we are separated by numerous islands, teeming with tigers and small crocodiles ; the latter are called caymans, and resemble what naturalists term the " iguana." Tradition says that the first Spanish expedition to Paraguay passed more than twelve months in exploring the long and tortuous course of the Parana, for although the direct dis- tance is only 1000 miles, the Way is rendered very much longer by the necessity of crossing and re-crossing from one side to the other. Feliciana, 69 miles above Paran£, brings us 'to a wild part of the river ; islands, sand-banks, and submerged rocks, with whirl- pools, rendering navigation difficult from the currents, although the rocks are so many fathoms deep as to offer no danger. Fifteen miles above Feliciana, or five from the last rapids, there is a second ledge of rocks across the Parana with deep water and strong current. About twelve hours' sail from Parana is La Paz, near the borders of Corrientes : the town is a poor place, but some leagues inland is a fine estancia belonging to Mr. Haycroft. La Paz is 101 miles above Parand : all towns now are on our rigM (that is EIO DB LA PLATA AND TEIBUTAEIBS. 29 the river's left bank), the other side being Chaco or Indian territory. About 25 leagues above La Paz we come to the mouth of the Arroyo Espinillo, which is the frontier line be- tween Entre Eios and Corrientes, On Captain Page's map it is marked Sarandi or Guayquiraro: it is not navigable. Again there is a humber of these delightful islands, revelling in all the beauty of tropical vegetation, with palmetto trees, and a plant bearing golden leaves, easily mistaken for oranges. The savages of the Chaco never come down here, as they have plenty of means to pursue their occupations of hunting, fishing, or wood- cutting on the mainland. The cofist of Corrientes is low but well wooded, and yonder is a little hut, elevated on poles, and with a tile roof, which answers as the Capitania del Puerto for Esquina, this town being half a league distant on the mainland. Esquina, 58 miles above La Paz, is a well-built town, of 1794 inhabitants, situate on an eminence at a bend of the river Corrientes, near its confluence with the Parana. It possesses a good church, public schools, juzgado, and other edifices, extend- ing along the crest oi, the hill for about a mile, most of the houses having azoteas, with wide verandahs. The surrounding country is remarkable for its excellent pasture, and the inhabit- ants are wealthy cattle-breeders, sheep being comparatively 'few. Mr. Hayes, the son of an American, is the only foreign resident in the town. There is an abundance of tigers about here ; and abreast of us is the thriving Alexandra Colony of Thomson, Bonar, and Co. Here you find in the midst of the Chaco 500 hardy Europeans with steam-ploughs, threshing-machines, flour- mills, &c. The Parana now gets very wild, this being the worst part, up to the Taguarete pass (22 miles below ^Goya), with islands varying from 5 to 30 square miles in extent, and shifting sand- banks. Six leagues above Esquina we pass Costa Tola, where the stream attains an enormous width. Carpinchos or sea-hogs show themselves on the river bank. Higher up on our left, a 30 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEB PLATE. short distance inland, are the ruins of two Jesuit missions, Con- cepcion and St. Jeronimo, the second near a stream called Arroyo del Eey. Goya is 141 mUes above La Paz. About the commencement of the present cpntury, the site now occupied by the town of Goya was a cattle farm occupied by a Portuguese whose wife was named Gregoria, contracted into Goya. Here the ships passing used to call for beef. Gbya is capital of the richest dis- trict in the province, and one of the finest towns on the Parana. The houses are of brick, and the population is 4233, including a large foreign element of Italians, Basques, and French. The principal trade of the place consists in hides, wool, cheese, and oranges. Orange groves are frequent, but the business is dimi- nishing, while the excellent cheese is finding its way to the various ports " aguas abajo," a large quantity being sent to Buenos Ayres. / After a couple of leagues we pass a very picturesque locality, known as Eincon de Soto. Here is a large saladero, and a fine bay admits vessels of some burthen to come close to the esta- blishment. Not far inwards, about two leagues from Goya, is the ancient village of Santa Lucia, founded by the Jesuits. We pass several rivulets with Indian names, none of which are navigable, although wide as European rivers, with luxuriant vegetation overshadowing their banks. The red sandstone bluff now ahead of us is Las Cuevas, where the river at low tide is hardly 100 yards wide. The Para- guayans erected a battery here in 1865, which inflicted serious injury on the Brazilian ironclads in "forcing the pass. Yonder is the orange grove of Mr. Henry Hall, with its dark green outline against the horizon. Bella Vista, 54 miles above Goya, is seated on a gentle slope, in the midst of tropical foliage, a most charming picture. It was first peopled by a settlement of convicts, sent hither under General Ferre in 1826. It now contains about 1000 inhabitants. BIO DE LA PLATA AND TEIBUTAKIES. 31 Passing Empedrado, -which is half-way between Bella Vista and Corrientes, we reach the mouth of the Eiachuelo, famous for the great naval battle fought here on 11th June, 1865, between the fleets of Paraguay and Brazil. The former was much less than the latter in ships and weight of metal, but was aided by a shore battery of forty guns. The struggle lasted from daybreak till nightfall, and ended in the utter defeat of the Paraguayans, who displayed great bravery : over 2000 men perished in the battle, the Paraguayans losing four steamers and the Brazilians having three vessels Jiors de combat. The vicinity of the Eiachuelo is said to produce good tobacco ; and now we come abreast of Don Domingo Latorre's famous quinta, with its 5000 orange trees. Corrientes covers a plateau elevated 60 feet over, the water level, so that we can see little but the church towers. A tanning establishment and timber yard form the centre of the picture, with the Custom House, Casa de Gobierno, several pahn ranches, and a sprinkling of orange trees to fill up the whole, giving a strange and not unpleasant aspect. The streets are about 50 feet wide. The plaza is much the same as it was three centuries ago. Corrientes is suitable for an arsenal because conunanding the two great rivers which unite at Tres Bocas ; one of these, the Paraguay, is navigable^ for over 1000 miles. Timber for ship-building abounds. Corrientes is ac- cessible to vessels drawing 7 or 8 feet, and at flood times up to 12 feet. The important island of Cerrito is 17 miles above Corrientes, or 702 from Martin Garcia. On leaving Corrientes we can distinctly count the seven currents, which give the city its name ; they are formed by as many projecting points of land above the town. We now approach the Tres Bocas,^the confluence of the rivers Paraguay and Upper Parana. The scenery about here is very fine. The Upper Parana, from Tres Bocas, is bold and picturesque, with a rocky coast on either side. At the faUs of Apipe, 150 miles above Corrientes, we find the islands of Apipe and 32 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVBE PLATE. Yaureta a ledge of rocks from Apipe to the Corrientes main- land, another from Yaureta to the Paraguayan shore, forming the rapids. In flood seasons small steamers can pass by the Apipe side. Magnificent scenery of hiUs and forests intervenes until we reach the ruins of Itapua, with those of Candelaria on the opposite bank, 186 mUes above Corrientes, the river being here only half its ordinary width. The Falls of Guayra are among the most remarkable in^ihe world. In 1863 Lopez sent Colonel Platino to explore them, and his report was as follows : "At a distance of 30 miles a noise is heard like thunder. Even 3 mUes off it is difficult to hear anyone speak. Some settlements had to be abandoned because the inhabitants became deaf. The whole region is in the hands of the wildest class of savages, a miserable race of Indians." The falls are 150 leagues above Corrientes, and the river a little higher is 13,000 feet across, having more water than aU European rivers taken collectively. This great mass narrows to 200 feet, and falls 56 feet, causing a kind of earthquake. Mrr Eevy computes a million tons of water per minute, and a current of 40 miles an hour. Little or nothing is known of the Parana above the Guayra Falls, except that it drains chiefly Brazilian territory. At Corrientes Mr. Eevy says it drains a basin of 500,000 square miles, and gains nothing afterwards in volume, as it loses by evaporation all it gains in tributaries. EIVEE PAEAGUAY. Entering the Paraguay river at the Tres Bocas, we pass the Guardia Cerrito, and in a few hours reach Curupaity, where the Allies sustained a great, reverse on the 22nd of September, 1866. Every inch of groimd was here disputed with immense sacrifice of life during more than two years, tiU the Para- guayans finally abandoned Humaita in July, 1868. A bend of MO DE LA PLATA AND TEIBTITAKMS. 33 the river reveals to us this formidable position, which was defended by casemated batteries, torpedoes, and chains across the river. This place was the key to the upper rivers, and the garrison, before the war, usually numbered 12,000 men : the fortress was constructed by Trench engineers ia 1854, under the regime of the first Lopez. A little above Humaita, on the Chaco side, we come to the mouth of the Kio Vermejo, which is about 300 yards wide, and bordered by a dense thicket. Some of the Chaco Indians may often be seen about here, spearing fish. Villa Pilar is a pretty little town, with numerous orange- groves and a handsome church, about a mile from the shore. It is the chief town of a district which showed a census return of 160,000 inhabitants. Under the rule of Francia it was the commercial emporium of Paraguay, the city of Asuncion being shut to all foreigners. An hour's sail takes us to the mouth of the Tebicuari, a large river which rises in the Yerbales or maie-fields of Misiones, and after a course of 400 miles falls into the Paraguay at this place. Just before the war President Lopez had sent to Europe for two light steamers to navigate the Tebicuari. Villa Franca is a village of no importance : the surrounding district has only 10,000 inhabitants. Villa Oliva is another small place, with a church and public schools : here the steamers often take beef and firewood. And now we may observe shoals of alligators on either bank — some- times as many as a dozen basking together in the sun, a few measuring 7 or 8 feet in length." They lie motionless, like a log of wood, with their jaws extended, showing two alarming rows oi teeth. The body is scaly like a tortoise, with four short fin-like legs, and they glide into the water with great ease. Carpinchos may be seen in close proximity, apparently on good terms with the " Yacares," for this South American crocodile confines his tastes to fish. / Villeta is a difficult pass of the river, about 7 leagues below D 34 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. Asuncion. At times tlie water is so low that no vessels drawing over 18 inches can pass. The banks on the Paraguayan/ side rise as we proceed up stream, and the Paraguayans nsed to have a battery of a few guns commanding a bend of the river. The scenery is very diversified and tranquil, with stately palm-trees that stand forth at intervals to remind us of the tropics. The peak of Lambare is enchanting, with its cone-like eleva- tion clad in luxuriant foliage, raising its lofty form to the clouds. The adjacent village of Lambare is a suburb to the capital, remarkable for its church and cemetery. On the left bank is the mouth of the Pilcomayo, which rises in Bolivia, near the city of Chuquisaca, traverses the Gran Chaco, and after a course of 1500 miles, here falls into the Paraguay. There are two batteries at the turn before we get view of the arsenal and city of Asuncion. Asuncion, the Paraguayan metropolis, is a town of some 30,000 inhabitants ; it was founded by a Spanish captain named Ayolas, on August 15, 1536. There are some splendid public buildings, and excellent hotel accommodation is found at the Club. The shops are poor, and all imported articles very dear. The railway to Villa Eica runs through a country imsurpassed for scenery. The traveller will find many delightful rides in the environs of Asuncion, and he should take a bath before sunrise at the Chorro. A description of the city and people will be given at full in tlie section of this work devoted to Paraguay. Ascending the river to Matto Grosso, the first place beyond Asuncion is Yilla Occidental, on the Chaco side, where a French colony was established by Lopez, but resulted unfortu- nately. We next pass the towns of EoSario and San Pedro, and the mouths of the Oonfuso, Jejuy, and Tpape rivers, arriving at Concepcion, 180 miles from Asuncion. The depth: of the river varies from 20 to 70 feet, its width being from half a mile to a mile, and the banks usually about 15 feet high. RIO DB LA PLATA AND TRIBtTTAKIBS. 35 Concepoion is a town of 2000 * inhabitants, and the great port of the yerba-mdte trade. Salvador is 70 miles above Concepoion, and has a population of 1000 souls. From Salvador to Eio Apa is nearly 100 miles, the scenery being very beautiful near the ranges ' of Itapucu Guazii, and the country inhabited by warlike Indians. Here begins the disputed territory, which extends 80 miles north, as far as Eio Blanco, and is claimed by both Brazil and Paraguay on account of the important position of Fort Olympo. . Fort Olympo is 420 miles above Asuncion, standing 45 feet above the river, which is here 600 yards wide : it forms a square of 100 feet, with bastions for cannon, the walls being 14 feet high and 2J feet thick, without embrasures. It was built by the Spaniards in 1798, garrisoned by Francia in 1822, abandoned by Lopez in 1850, again occupied in 1856,' and after- wards seized in turns by Brazil and Paraguay. Before reaching Olympo' is the picturesque mountain called Pan-de-azucar, and 5 miles above the fort is Bahia Blanca, at the mouth of the Eio Blanco; We enter Brazilian territory at Salinas, and here the left bank is claimed by Bolivia, while the right forms part of the province of Matto Grosso. Fort Coimbra, in lat. 19° 55' 43'^ and long. 57° 52' 32", stands on a hill of the same name, which slopes to the river : it is 40 feet above the water level, and is a solid stone structure, completely commanding the river, which is here 600 yards wide. The officers' quarters within the fort consist of small stone, houses. All supplies are obtained from Albuquerque or the neigh- bouring Indians. The low land& for some distance above Coimbra are subject to inundation, but there are also some pieces of firm lajid, covered with excellent woods and never overflowed except in seasons of extraordinary rise. The moun- tains are small insulated peaks or short ranges, probably spurs of the Bolivian sierras. The surrounding country is held by the D 2 36 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEB PLATE. Guayouni Indians, whom the Brazilian Government treats with much conciliation. Coimbra is 33 miles above Tort Olympo. Albuquerque is an insignificant village of seventy houses, only useful for supplies of provisions, and 47 miles from Coimbra. Passing the mouth of the Tacuari we reach Corumb4, 60 miles from Albuquerque, and 560 from Asuncion. This place sprung into importance with the introduction of steam traf&c : it produces some good cotton. From Corumba to Cuyabd is nearly 400 miles, the course changing in lat. 18°, long. 5J° 30', from the Upper Paraguay to the river Cuyabd. The city of CuyabS. is capital of the province of Matto Grosso, residence of the President, Bishop, and other Brazilian functionaries, and a place of much importance. This is the highest point navigable in a steamer. Captain Bossi, in 1862, attempted to cross over to the head-waters of the Amazonas, but failed. The distance overland to Eio Janeiro is 1200 miles, practicable on mules in about sixty days, but much infested by Indians, passing through a country of woods and mountains. The early Spaniards are known to have made the journey. A Brazilian expeditionary force left Eio Janeiro in 1865 ; most of the men perished on the route, the rest de- serted to the woods. UP THE UHUGTJAT. The scenery of the Uruguay is the finest in these countries, and there is almost daily communication between Buenos Ayres and Salto : the steamers are elegant and commodious, and make , the trip in thirty-six hours. As we cross the La Plata to ascend the Uruguay, the fine estancias of Martin Chico and San Juan are pointed out on the Banda Oriental coast. Passing the Cerro San Juan we sight the island of Martin Garcia, the Gibraltar of the Eiver Plate. Carmelo is the first town we sight, and looks very pretty, seated on a bend of the river, but a good view is not obtained till we pass upwards. A small steamer calls here in connection BIO DE LA PLATA AND TEIBUTAEIBS. 37 with. Colonia or Higueritas. The next thing we see is an old convent, now used for an estancia-house. The scenery improves as we advance, the Entre Biano coast being much lower than the Oriental. Nueva Palmira or Higueritas is on the eastern bank ; it is a small place, and has few attractions, except that it offers a con- venient landing-place for passengers for the interior. At the mouth of the Bio Negro a small steamer meets us to take the passengers for Mercedes. Higher up we meet the Gualeguaychu steamer, forming another branch line of the Uruguay service. As we proceed up the river the scenery is of varying beauty. The Uruguay at times rivals the Parand, but often sinks to comparative insignificance. It is of remarkably uniform depth, averaging 27 feet in February and 45 feet in October. The sectional area at Salto varies from 25,000 square feet at low water to 71,200 at periodical rise, or 126,800 at October flood. It is two and a third times as rapid as the Parana abreast of Bosario. Higueritas is 3 miles above Punta Gorda, where the Uruguay joins the Eiver Plate. Three miles above Higueritas the river expands into a lake 6 miles wide and 56 miles long without any islands. The delta of the Uruguay begins at Fray Bentos, 58 miles above Higueritas, and numerous islands suc- ceed for 67 miles, till approaching Paysandu. From this place upward the banks become solid rock, 100 feet high, and the Entre Bios shore displays numerous palm-groves. The naviga- tion of the river terminates at Salto, 200 miles from Higueritas. The Uruguay is here 2500 yards, wide, 18 to 30 feet deep, and the fall is 25 feet. In the streams and along the rocky coasts the sand is richly interspersed \^th pebbles of cornelian, agate, chalcedony, onyx, and jasper, all more or less pure, and some of them of great beauty. Fray Bentos is a new town on the same side of the river, chiefly noteworthy for the famous Liebig Extraqtum Carnis 38 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVBK PLATE. Factory, wMch was established by the late Mr. Giebert, in 1864, at a cost of 200,000Z. It gives constant employment to 600 or 800 persons, and can kUl 500 head of cattle per day. The maohiaery was made in Glasgow, and cost 4:5,000L ; it is the most complete and elaborate that can be imagined. The beef extract is made up in boxes of 100 lbs. each, for shipment to Europe, where it is sold a-t 11. sterling per 1 lb. weight, chiefly' for hospital use. Moman is the name of a landing-place, and also of a saladero near it, about 70 leagues from Buenos Ayres. The saladero is owned by Don Felipe Iglesias, and the town is little else than a group of irregularly built houses to accommodate the workmen. It is usually midnight when the steamer calls at Concepcion, the chief town of Entre Eios, which we shall visit on our return down the river. By daybreak we are at anchor in the port of Paysandu. Paygdndu, 80 leagues from Buenos Ayres, contained before the civil war 7700 inhabitants. So great has been the activity of business since the restoration of peace, that it is believed the j)opulation now exceeds 10,000. New houses are seen in all directions, and these are of a better class than the old ranches battered down in the bombardment. In the Department of Paysandu are five saladeros, two of these are in the city, one at Oasa Blanca, one at Boman, and one at Fray Bentos. At each of these there are kOled annually 40,000 to 50,000 animals. The beef is salted and dried in thin, large slices, and finds a market in BrazU and the West Indies. Hides are salted and go to Europe, chiefly to Antwerp and Liverpool, and the tallow to England. There are no manufactories in Paysandu, but sundry stores, and shops of shoemakers, tailors, wagon-makers, blacksmiths, &c. Hotels,, La Paz and La Francia; charge SIJ per day. Labour is dear both for house and farm service the poorest labourer receiving, at the lowest, ^20 per month Don Miguel Horta, the principal shopkeeper, is Spanish Vice' Consul, and his house is the rendezvous of all English estancieros EIO DB LA PLATA AND TEIBUTAEIES. 39 Some pleasant excursions may be made to the neighbouring estanoias of Messrs. Mundell, Peile, Hughes, and Bell, to' the saladero at Arroyo Negro, to Williams' saladero, and by boat to the Swiss colony across the Uruguay. From Paysandu to Salto is the finest part of the river : the scenery is varied and beautiful. At the Hervidero we pass a large establishment : it is a two-story house, built over twenty years ago by a company, of which Mr. Lafone formed part, and had a saladero, now in ruins, and an estancia with over 100,000 cows and sheep. The Mesa de Artigas is a bold headland, just over the river. Here General Artigas encamped his army in the War of Independence, and tradition says he threw his Spanish prisoners hence, sewed up in hides, into the river. After passirig the estancia" Deljcias and other valuable establishments belong- ing to foreigners, we reach the dangerous pass of Corralitos. This reef of rocks has but one narrow and tortuous channel, and is impassable by night. Sailing vessels cannot pass but with the most favourable wind, and we see coasting craft at anchor in front of the old port of Concordia, which is nearly a league below that town. In high water the Corralitos are covered, but often the river is so low that the buoys are high and dry. You cannot see Concordia from here, but there is a " casilla" at the new port, and coaches are in waiting to convey, passengers to the town. We have now a fine view of Salto at the head of the river, about 3^ miles above, covering three or four hills, with large white edifices, and apparently a town of great extent. Salto (Hotel Concordia) is 110 leagues from Buenos Ayres; it is a very flourishing place, with 9000 inhabitants, one half of whom are Italians. ' The town has a bustling aspect, new buildings going up on all sides. The view is very picturesque in every direction. The city stretches out much to the north, the new town laid out by Mr. Coleman being already thickly settled. The situation is charming, the Uruguay bathing the decKvities of the " cuchillas,^ which run down in almost parallel lines, the white buildings 40 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVBE PLATE. studding the hill-sides, and clumps of, brushwood fringing the outskirts. It is the head-quarters of all frontier traffic to Eio Grande and Corrientes, and the railway in construction by Messrs. Clark, Punchard, and Co., of London, will terminate at Santa Eosa, on the frontier. The Salto Chico is about a mile above the town, and sometimes quite dry; the Salto Grande, higher up is a barrier to navigation in almost all periods. A little below the town is a tanyard, and farther down was the Brazilian encampment in 1865. Salto is reputed a very healthy place, the only epidemic ever known being small-pox. The water here, as in aU other parts of the Uruguay, has a melli- fluous taste. Mr. Eichard WiUiams, one of the oldest British residents in the Eiver Plate, hits a handsome residence, com- manding a view of the Uruguay, and Concordia on the opposite bank. In times of very high water, a steamer (drawing 3 feet) goes up the falls to Uruguayana : the distance is about 150 miles,, and the scenery well repays the journey. After passing the falls we coast alternately the shores of Entre Eios and Banda Oriental, on both of which there are many large cattle estancias. Sortie leagues above Concordia is the Arroyo Yuqueri, where General Mitre established his head- quarters when the Paraguayan war first broke out. A range of hills called Puntas de Mandisobi, 12 leagues from Concordia, was subsequently General Flores' rendezvous before the battle of Yatay. Not far hence is the village of Pederacion, and nearly opposite, in Banda Oriental, is another, called Con- stitucion. A stream debouching on our left, called the Mocoreta, is the frontier line between Entre Eios and Corrientes; and 10 leagues higher, on the right, we come to Santa Eosa, at the frontier of the Brazilian province of Eio Grande: this place ' is 30 leagues above Salto, and has vis-a-vis the Correntino' village of Monte-Caseros. Twenty leagues farther is the important town of Uruguayana, EIO DE LA PLATA AND TRIBUTAKIE8. 41 at a pass of the river, called Paso de los Libres. It was fouBded in 1843, and was a thriving frontier town previous to the war ; it had about 10,000 inhabitants : it was the centre of the trade of this part of Eio Grande. In 1865 the Paraguayans took it and held it for some time, tUl the allied generals closely invested the place, and the Paraguayan commander surrendered to Dom Pedro in person. The town was found to be in a dreadful condition ; but it is now fast recovering its prosperity. The Uruguay is here half a mile across. Twenty leagues higher up is the Correntino village of La Cruz, and 2 leagues farther, on the Brazilian shore, stands the town of Itaqui, which was also taken by the Paraguayans in their descent on Eio Grande. A battle occurred near a rapid river above the town, in which the BrazilianB were worsted, obliging them to abandon Itaqui. Twenty-five leagues farther on are the towns of Santo Tome and San Borja. The former is in lat. 28° 20', and long. 58° 10' : it is the chief town of the Misiones of Aguapey (Corrientes). Exactly opposite is San Borja (Eio Grande) : the country around is rich and populous. The distance across Misiones to Itapua on the Upper Parana is 38 leagues. We have now ascended 100 leagues from Salto, and the traveller may still continue his explorations in Misiones. The return voyage from San Borja to Salto will occupy a day and a half. If we cross the Uruguay river below the falls from the eastern to the western side, we shall find Concordia, an Argen- tine city of the province of Entre Eios, and nearly opposite Salto.' There is at Concordia one saladero which uses about 50,000 animals in the "faena"' (cattle and horses). This is the property of A. Benites and Co. : the city counts about 5000 inhabitants, and is a place of considerable business. Eents and wages are high, and good houses are not easily found to rent. The Eastern Argentine Eailway starts from here, and is being actively pushed forward into the province of Corrientes. 42 HANDBOOK OF the" eivbe plate. Gohnia de San Jose, 24 leagues, below Concordia, is a colony of Swiss and German immigrants, numbering about 2500 per- sons. The town itself is only ^tbie few bouses needed at the landing, for the people are agriculturists, raising wheat, maize, potatoes, i&c. Ooncepcion del Uruguay, 9 leagues lower down the river, is at present the capital of the province of Entre Eios. The anchorage of steamers is near the shore, but the landing is so far away from the city as to leave but little opportunity to see the town from the steamer. There are said to be 5000 inhabit- ants. The princely residence of the late General TJrquiza is 7 leagues distant, at San Jose. At Concepcion are two sala- deros, but there are no manufactories. THE SALADO AMD VEEMEJO. These two rivers belong to the Gran Chaco territory, and are generally considered navigable, although many obstacles have been met with in the expeditions sent for their exploration. The Kio Salado rises in the upper provinces, passes through Santiago del Estero, and falls into the Parana just above Santa Pe city. A Spanish gentleman named Esteban Bams Kupert devoted many years and ' a large amount of money to the scheme of canalizing this river. His first expedition was at the close of 1862. Baron Maua provided funds, pending the formation of a company in England, and Mr. W. H. Cock began the works in 1863. The Baron, however, found it impossible to get up the company, owing to the Flores revolution of April, 1864, and after a year (December, 1864) Mr. Cock received orders to suspend operations. Mr. Eams had some iron lighters built by Marshal of Bar- racas, and was almost ready to start for the Salado, when he was cut off by cholera, in April, 1867. The enterprise, how- ever, was not suffered to fall- through, but in the following month Mr. Seiiorans started from Buenos Ayres. - EIO DE LA PLATA AND TKIBUTAEIBS. 43 After a voyage of three months and a half he returned to Santa Fe with his expedition, having reached a point some hundred and eighty miles above Monte Aguara, at which latter place the river Salado takes a great bend to the west, just before entering into the province of Santiago del Estero. Mr. Senorans thus examined and went over that part of the river which Captain Page was unable to explore, owing to his steamer drawing too much water. The river, during the whole time occupied by the expedition, was pretty high — 16 feet of water often being found, so that the theory of the navigation of the Salado by small steamers towing " chatas '' was thus fully es- tablished, and even if this navigation be only practicable during six or seven months of the year, it is still of the very greatest importance, as it will facilitate the settlement of the lands oh either side of the river. Mr. Senorans was sucoess&l in gain- ing the good will of the various tribes of Indians on his route. All the caciques of the river came to visit him, and he made treaties with many of them. Since the return of this expedition (September, 1867) no other has gone up the Salado. ' The Eio Vermejo rises in Bolivia, and, after a tortuous course of 1200 miles through the forests of the Ghaco, falls into the river Paraguay near the fortress of Humaitd. The first expedi^ tion to navigate its waters was in 1826, when some Englishmen and Buenos Ayreans successfully descended the river : they were, however, taken prisoners by Francia, tyrant of Paraguay, and kept in captivity for many years. In 1856, Jose Maria Arce, a Bolivian, accompanied by ah Irish sailor named William Martin, safely descended from Oran to Corrientes. SeSor Arce made four voyages afterwards, the last in November, 1863, on, this occasion losing two men, killed by Indians. He brought 150 tons cargo and ten passengers, including his brother. Dr. Arce (with two secretaries), who had credentials from the Bolivian Government as Minister Plenipotentiary to the Argen- tine and Paraguayan cabinets : his principal business being to 4:4 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEB PLATE. make treaties for the navigation of the Pilcomayo. President Lopez would not make any treaty on the subject, as he declared the Vermejo and PUcomayo belonged exclusively to Paraguay. Arce, in his last voyage, found the Vermejo nowhere less than 5 feet deep, his vessels drawing only 27 inches : but in many places the boughs of trees obstructed the navigation. In February, 1863, Lavarello's expedition started from Buenos Ayres, on board the steamer ' Gran Chaco.' , ' The course of the river changes five or six times every league, so that Captain Lavarello reckons one thousand bends from Esquina Grande to the mouth, of the Vermejo. The Indians also rendered essential services by assisting to cut and load wood, and by hauling the vessel loose, with ropes, when occa- sionally stuck upon sand-banks. At last they reached Eivadavia colony in July, and the expedition returned to Buenos Ajrres early in 1864. Just then President Lopez sent to Europe for two small steamers, to navigate the Vermejo and Pilcomayo, but the war soon after ensuing the enterprise was prevented. In November, 1868, a petition was laid before Congress from Messrs. Lezica and Lanuz, in connection with the Vermejo. A subsidy was granted, and the enterprise passed into a joint- stock company, on whose behalf Captain Page ascended the river in 1871, and in 1874 the canalization of the Teuco having been effectecl by Mr. Eoldan, the Vermejo is now navigable to steamers of light draught, two of which, built in the United States, have recently arrived. ( 45 ) CHAPTEE IV. COLONIES OF THE AE6ENTINB EBPTTBLIO. The report of Mr. Secretary Wilcken verifies the assertion that the Argentine Eepublic is the poor man's El Dorado. There are 3185 families scattered over the thirty-four colo- nies of Santa Fe and Entre Eios, owning farms and cattle to the value of ^11,186,216 Bol., equal to 1,864,359Z. sterling, which will give a proportion of 585Z. per family ; most of these families having arrived here within the last eight or ten years without a dollar. Special attention is due to the Central Argentine colonies, begun only three years ago, numbering already 3000 souls, with 50,000 acres under crops. The statistics of the thirty-four colonies are summed up briefly as follows : 1st — Population. Swiss 5,857 Italians 4,157 French 1,889 Germans 1,483 English 486, Native born 2,364 Various .. 442 16,678 2nd— Stock. Head. Oxen 11,767 Cows 33,561 Horses 11,958 Pigs 5,457 Sheep 4,625 Value of above, $767,000 bol. i6 HANDBOOK 0¥ THE EITEB PLATE. Srd — Farms. Area occupied 75 sq. 1. ' Under tillage 500,000 acres. Farm implements $1,056,820 Houses, sheds .. - 2,305,600 Crops of 1872 1,383,196 Value of farms 2,023,600 Stock, &c., capital 4,417,000 $11,186,216 The reader will find a general view of the colonies in the table which follows, expressing the date of foundation of each, the present population, and the number of fanegas in the last crop. Name. Date. Population. Crop, Esperanza San Jose V. Uruguay S. Geronimo S. Carlos .. ,. Guadaloupe Helvetia California Fraucesa Cayasta . . Corondina Tunas , Emilia Eloysa Cavour Humboldt Gruetli S. Justo Welsh Alexandra Germania Jesus-Maria Candelaria S. Aguatin Prank Bernstadt Carried forward 1856 1,856 18,0C0 1856 1,991 19,976 1858 800 ,4,700 1858 958 13,000 1858 1,992 33,007 1864 425 3,800 1865 800 20,000 18,66 72 2,750 1867 70 1,400 1867 303 5,350 1867 220 2,801 1868 244 3^762 1868 298 2,588 1868 14 1869 165 730 1869 685 7,424 1869 49 957 1869 150 800 1869 44 750 1870 130 .. 1870 65 1,600 1870 950 15,000 1870 392 • 5,800 . 1870 4.37 6,587 1870 162 2,000 1870 2,000 - 8,500 15,272 181,282 COLONIES OF THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. 47 Name. Date. Population. Crop. Brought forward . . Cafiada Gomez Carcaraua Tortugas Hansa i N.ItaHa Hugues Est. Grande Orono 1870 1871 1871 1871 1871 1871 1871 1872 15,272 335 510 262 40 80 60 85 30 181,282 3,000 ■ 16,674 184,282 This shows that every man, woman, and child in the colonies represents an annual production of nearly 12 fanegas of grain ; or, if we divide the area under tillage among the different families, we shall find that each family cultivates a farm of 157 acres, say 40 cuadras. The crops are found to give thirty or forty fold on an average, but in some oases only fifteen to twenty fold. However, Mr. Thomas Moore, of California Colony, obtained in 1870 as much as fifty-five for one. Bsperanza is on the right bank of the Salado, 7 leagues N.W. of Santa Fe. It was founded in 1856, and is in a most flourishing condition, most of the settlers being worth from 500Z. to 2000Z. each : they are about one-half Swiss, one-third Germans, with a sprinkling of French and Italians. The land, which was at fitrst worth 2s. an acre, has risen to '21. per acre. The colonists have built a bridge at Paso Miura yhich cost 2500Z., and the projected railway will connect the colony with the port of Santa Fe. There are 3 steam-mills — those of Maurer, Trombere, and KeUe — and a brewery belonging to M. Schneider ; also 5 brick-kilns, 27 shops, 2 saw-yards, 4 inns, and 386 brick houses. The Catholic school has 132, the Pro- testant 75 pupils. The colonists have 5000 head of horned cattle, which yield 10 tons of butter for exportation. The annual profits of the colony are estimated at 30,000Z. The plantations count 100,000 fruit trees. 48 HANDBOOK or THE EIVEB PLATE. The wheat crop gave 15,000 fanegas. The colonists are 1856 in number, comprising 362 families, of which 282 are Catholic and 80 Protestant. There are 210 farm lots of 80 acres each. San Geronimo is 2 leagues from Esperanza, towards Sunchales, founded in 1858 by Swiss families from the Valais canton. The sons of the colonists are a hardy race, and rear a good deal of ' cattle. M. Eodemann has made periodical visits to Switzer- land, bringing out new settlers every time. The school is managed by the priest of the colony, and attended by eighty- five children. There are 196 farms, inhabited by 958 settlers, all of whom are Catholics except two. There are 13 shops, 133 houses, and 42 sheds, but no mills. The implements comprise 250 Ame- rican ploughs, and 42 Buckeye reapers. An imfenced farm lot may be had for 60Z. The last wheat crop gave 10,000 fanegas. Las Tunas was marked out in 1868 into 184 lots, at iOl. each, equal to 10a. per acre. This colony has been a great success. Only eight of the lots are yet tmdisposed of. It lies east of San Geronimo, and counts 244 settlers, of whom 165 are Catholics and 79 Protestants. Four-fifths are Swiss, the rest Italians and Germans. They have 874 head of cattle and 2500 acres under crops, but neither church nor school nearer than San Geronimo. The colonists are models of industry and sobriety. Frank Colony is called after its founder, Mauricio Frank, whose estancia is 2 leagues from Santa Fe. Farm lots of 80 acres for 80Z., payable in three years. It was founded in 1870, and its success has surpassed Mr. Frank's expectations. Of 228 lots, there are 81 occupied. The settlers are mostly Italians, with a sprinkling of Swiss and French, in all num- bering 161, of whom 127 are Catholics and 35 Protestants. The crop was 2000 fanegas, the area under tillage being 2300 acres. San Augustin, belonging to the London and Eiver Plate Bank, was founded by Mariano Cabal, near San Carlos, in 1870, OOIiONIBS OF THE AEOBNTINE EEPUBLIO. 49 and sold to the bank in 1871. It is 6 leagues S.E. of Santa Fe city, in a picturesque, rolling country. There are" 376 farm- lots of 80 acres at 65i!. each, payable in four years, with 10 per cent, interest. The manager for the bank is Don T. Lubary, who has sold most of the lots to speculators, chiefly from the neighbouring colony of San Carlos, the soil being the best in Santa Vk The population is 437, mostly Italians, and all Catholics. The live stock numbers 2274 head; the crops gave 6600 fanegas; and there are 5600 acres under tillage." Mr. Lubary speaks well of the colonists. San Garloi is 6 leagues S. of Bsperanza, and was esta- blished in 1857 by Messrs. Beck and Herzog. It is the most prosperous of all the colonies, and is almost equally composed of Swiss and Italians, the proportion of Catholics ahd Pro- testants being as 3 to 1. There are 2 churches and 2 schools, 3 steam-mills, 1 doctor, 2 apothecaries, 2 breweries, 55 shops, 184 brick houses, and 2 inns. Nothing can exceed the neat- ness and flourishing aspect of the colony. Farm-lots that were sold last year at 50Z. (^300) have risen to 80Z. The wheat crop is doubling every two years, and the-exports last year reached 60,000Z. worth. The colonists have 224 wagons, 478 ploughs, 110 reaping and threshijng machines, and 6000 cows and horses, besides 135,000 fruit trees. The cultivation of silk-worms progresses favourably : 50 lbs. of silk were raised last year. Area under "tillage, 20,000 acres. The colonists count 1492 Catholics and 500 Protestants, the churches of each pprsuasion being very handsome. The taxes collected last year amounted to ^4205. Among the richest of the colonists is Battista Goetschi, who arrived in 1859, and is now worth 6000Z. sterling. The best mill is that of Prank and Bauer, Whose flour took a gold medal at the Cordoba Exhibition. The colonist Laprada has three steam threshing machines. Gorondina, three hours' riding, S.S.W. from San Carlos, and close to the old village of Coronda, was founded by Governor Orono iii 1867, each settler receiving 2 oxen, 2 horses, 2 eows, 50 HANDBOOK OP THE BIVEK PLATE. and the material for a house, with a farm-lot of only 20 acres. There are 67 lots, which cost the Government ^35 each, and are now worth from ^200 upwards. The site is close to the Salado : population 220, comprising 56 families, of whom 3 are Protestant. The, settlers are Italians and Swiss. There are 68 houses, 5000 trees, 700 head of cattle, and some silk-worms. The school is attended by 26 children. Last year's crop gave 2000 fanegas. The port of Coronda is advantageous. Orono, 2 leagues W. of Coronda, was founded in 1872 hy Senator (formerly Governor) Orono. Farm-lots of 100 acres each at 651., payable in four years without interest, or 501. cash. Six Italian families were the first settlers, and Signer Boccicio, of Coronda, is authorized to sell lots. Guadalupe consists of German families from Brazil, the first having come in 1864. They supply Santa Te with fowl, vege- tables, &c., besides raising Corn, tobacco, and other products. They are well-to-do people, and have splendid plantations, with farm-lots of 80 acres well fenced round. At first the settlers, who are nearly all Hanoverians, suffered many reverses, and the Government had to give them horses and oxen. They have only 2000 acres under grain, but they make a comfortable living' by fruits and vegetables. The population is 425, in 97 families, of whom 73 are Catholic, and 24 Protestant ; one-fourth are Italians. The school has 25 children. Cavour, founded in July, 1869, 8 leagues &om Santa Fe city. Farms of 80 acres for 40Z. Population 169, chiefly Italians and French, who raise great quantities of vegetables, and sell as many as 30,000 water-melons in a year. The founder, Lambruschini, allows them to cut wood gratis. There are 99 farm-lots occupied, and last year's crop gave 730 fanegas. There are 25 ploughs, 10 wagons, and 40 houses, besides 68 pair of oxen, and 1030 head of other cattle. All the settlers, except 22, are Catholics. Humboldt, commenced in July, 1869, by Beck and Herzog ; concessions of 80 acres for 80Z. Population 685, chiefly Swiss, COLONIES or THE AEGBNTINE BEPUBLIO. 51 who hs,YS under tillage 4000 aeres. Crop 7489 fanegas. Treep 12,000. This is one of tlie colonies which sho^s the most rapid and surprising progress. It is 2J leagues from Esperanza, in a beautiful country bounded by the Chaco forests. Of 282 farm-lots there are only 20 yet to be disposed of. The colo- nists have 164 American or German ploughs, 100 wagons, 19 reapers, 3532 head of cattle, and 168 houses ; 525 settlers are Catholics, 160 Protestants. Oruetli, founded in 1869 by San Carlos colonists. Farms of 80 acres for 80Z. Population 49, chiefly Swiss. The colony comprises 5 square leagues, sold by Mr. CuUen to Mr. Gessler. It lies west of Esperanza and 13 leagues from Santa Pe. The lands are wild, wooded, and exposed to Indians, and in 1870 two Americans who had joined the colony were murdered by the savages, which almost caused the settlement to be aban- doned, only thirteen families remaining. In February, 1872, ten families from Suhchales came to reinforce the settlement, which is now the farthest outpost of civilization in this direc- tion in the heart of the Gran Chaco. A wooden bridge has been placed across the Arroyo de las Prusianas. Two-thirds of the settlers are Catholics. The crop gave 957 fanegas. There are 18 houses, 38 ploughs and harrows, 4 reapers, 11 wagons, and 370 head of cattle. Emilia is on the Salado, 13 leagues N. of Santa Pe, in a delightful locality, surrounded by the richest -timber^ It was founded in 1868 by Governor Cabal ; 121 eighty-acre lots, which were at first given gratis, but now cost 40Z. Cabal made advances to poor settlers, and gave them free use of the timber. The crop gave 3000 fanegas of wheat. Excellent tobacco is also raised, 60 plants giving an arrobe worth 30s. : this is better than wheat. There are 298 settlers, of whom two-thirds are Italians, with several French, Belgians, and Swiss, besidfes a few natives and 5 Paraguayans, forming 71 families, all Catholics. There is a fine steam-mill, also a barn used as a church, 72 houses, a brick-kiln, 80 American ploughs, a steamr K 2 52 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVBB PLATE. thresher, and 2700 cows, horses, and sheep. The er6p gave 2500 fanegas, the colonists selling at Cabal's agency at the same price as in Santa Fe. The agent's offices and steam-mill are a league from the colony. Cabal still offers 50 farm-lots at 401. each, payable in three years, and will advance oxen, flour, and beef to poor settlers. In March and April of 1872 there were five births, twins in every case. San Justo, another of Cabal's colonies, lies 21 leagues N. of Santa F6, and was marked out in 1868 into 500 lots, at first given gratis, but now worth 30Z. each. There are 27 families, who live mostly by cutting timber and raising tobacco from Habana seed. Cabal helped poor settlers at the outset, and the farm-lots were of 80 acres each. In 1869 the colony counted 300 souls, but it has fallen off to one-half, Cabal being obliged in 1871 to transfer it to the Lopdon and Eiver Plate Bank at the price of K4000 per league. Since then it has been going to ruin, and on all sides are seen abandoned houses and gardens, as well as English machinery scattered about. There are still 150 settlers, Swiss, French, and Italian. The last crop of wheat was only 800 fanegas, a fire having destroyed 200 acres. The school counts about a dozen children. The settlers dispose of their produce at the neighbouring colony of Emilia. Conde is still farther in the Ohaco, being situate between the rivers Colastine and San Javier, 10 leagues from Calchines and 20 from Santa Fe. It derives its name from Count Tessi&res Le Boi de Bertrand, who came out here in 1867, and prevailed on forty Swiss families of the San Carlos and San Geronimo colonies to settle down with him in the Gran Chaco. The Count has a charming residence in a wood opening on a hiH that commands the river Colastine, where he tas a cattle-farm independent of the colony, the Government having ceded him a league of land. The colony is properly called Cayasta, from an old mission of that name, and may be reached in eighteen hours by steamer from Santa Fe. There are 45 farms of 80 acres, and the low grounds are in common for grazing cattle. COLONIES OF THE AKGENTINB EKPDBLIC. 53 Tte crop was 5500 fanegas. There are 12 shops, 97 houses, 2600 head of cattle, 76 ploughs, 4 reaping machines, 39 wagons, church, school, municipality of 7 members, town-hall, priest, &c. Steamers and sailing vessels take produce for Corrientes, E. Eios and Santa Fe. The colonists are 303 in number ; one family is Protestant. Helvetia is on the San Javier river, 25 leagues N. of Santa Fe, and was founded by Dr. Eomang in 1865. The concession has 4 leagues &ont on the San Javier river, and lots of 100 acres are sold to settlers at 8Z. to 24Z., according to situation ; 137 lots are imder grain. The cultivated lots are valued at 701. to lOOZ. These colonists number 125 Swiss, German, Italian, and French families. Last year's crop gave 12,000 / fanegas of wheat, besides 8000 fanegas of maize, and a quantity of beans, potatoes, &c. There are 70O0 head of cattle and 800 horses. The settlers drive a brisk trade in cutting timber, and a steamer calls three times a month, plying to and frOm §anta F6, besides numbers of sailing craft. This is the most flourishiug of the colonies on the San Javier. The fipst settlers were from Esperanza, and had much trouble from Indians. The growth of this colony will be seen by these figures : 1S10. 18V2. Colonists 500 800 Stock 3,000 7,000 Crop, fanegas 6,000 20,000 The colony is growing so fast that the settlers have begun buying the Quiroga and Frank estanoias adjoining. Dr. Eomang says some of them own 500 head of cattle, all are very indus- trious, and they have paid him so honourably that there is not 6001. due to him in the colony. Good smiths, carpenters, shoe- makers, and tailors are wanted. The colonists count 492 Pro- testants, who have a neat chapel, and 308 Catholics, who attend the Cayasta church. The municipality comprises 7 burghers, the parson, doctor, and tax-collector. There are 25 shops, a steam-mill, hotel, 5 brick-kilns, a school attended by 30 54 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. children, 159 houses, 343 ploughs and harrows, 101 wagons, 13 patent reapers and threshers, a Justice of Peace, and three policemen. The colonists make sugar from "sandias," and cotton grows well. Freight, by water to Eosario 1 real and Buenos Ayres IJ per arrobe. The port is becoming important and houses are going up, but as there is no Customs officer the colonists have to send a chasque to Santa Fe, at ^15 each time that a vessel calls. The duties last year gave ^1280, against ^480 the previous year. Estancia Cfrande, also on the San Javier river, 30 leagues overland, or 48 hours by steamer from Santa Fe, was founded in 1871 by OuUen and Cabal. Lots of 80 acres at 40Z. each, payable in four years, have been taken up by 18 Swiss, German, and French families, but the Elia family dispute Cabal's title, and the colony is in a precarious way. Francesa was founded by M. Convert, from Esperanza, in 1867. There are 91 lots, of which 20 are under cultivation, and the rest will be given gratis to comers. There are 14 families, and last year's crop gave 800 fanegas of wheat. The lots are of '80 acres each, the present settlers being mostly of the Valais canton. The 6olony is 9 leagues north of Helvetia, and 1 south of the town of San Javier. The colonists have little encouragement in so remote a place, but Mr. Convert has a first-rate camp-store, for which the Oalifornian and Thomson . Bonar's colonists give him good custom. There are two smithies and carpenters' shops. i New California was founded in 1866 by some Califomian families, who bought IJ league of land from the Santa Fe Government, at 501. per league ; it is nearly opposite La Paz, on the Parana: Each family has 600 yards front on San Javier by 9000 deep. Last year's crop gave 2750 fanegas of prime wheat. The colonists have Kentucky rifles and the most approved implements of agriculture. In 1869 thp chief of the colony, Mr. Alexander McLean, solicited from the National Government a grant of 20 leagues of land beyond El Eey, in COLONIES OF THE ARGENTINE EBPUBLIO. 5^ order to establish there 200 American families on lots of 640 acres gratis, but his petition was refused. The colony com- prises 13 families, mustering 72 persons, all Protestants. They have 5 Gang ploughs, 5 Wood's reapers,' and Mr. Wilcken says their lands are the best cultivated that he has seen. They are their own smiths and carpenters, and aid each other, living like one family, the women attending to the dairy and teaching the children. They live well, but their houses are mere huts, since the frequent inroads of Indians and iUiberality of the Government had almost induced them to return to the United States; but now that the Alexandra colony has been formed they are less troubled with Indians, and have begun making bricks to build comfortable homesteads. Their cattle comprises 1500 cows, 60 oxen, 70 horses, and 300 pigs, which they keep in an island facing the colony. They find ready market for their products with dealers from Entre Eios and Corrientes, who touch at intervals. Each cottage is surrounded with five or six acres of* fruit plantation, the trees having grown prodigiously in five years. The steam-thresher of Eansomes' and Sims, as well as Thgmson's road-steamer belonging to Alexandra colony, made their successful debut at this colony. Their reaping machines will cut each ten acres of wheat daily. The colonists' names are McLean, Moore, Henry, Hurt, Mounts, Thompson, Smith, Schneider, Bennett, Wasp, and Barkly, all of whom, according to Mr. Wilcken, have good returns for the little capital they brought with them to the country. The Welsh colony, a league beyond the Californian, consists of laborious settlers who left the Chupat colony in Patagonia, in 1869, and obtained a grant of a square league from the Santa Fe Government. They have over 240 acres under culti- vation. Their crops have turned out very well. The present number is 44, all Protestants, who have their " ranches " in a group for protection against the, Indians. They are surrounded by thick woods. Their stock comprises 200 cows, 30 oxen, 40 horses, and 20 pigs. The settlers are Moulsdale, Hughes, 56 HANDBOOK OF THB EIVEK PLATE. Eoberts, Davids, Morgan, Pugli, Eeed, Price, Jones, Griffith, Burrell, Davies, and Williams. Eloisa is also on the San Javier, 2 leagues farther north than the Welsh. It comprises a grant of 20 leagues to Mr. Wornes, who arrived with fifteen families in August, 1869, and they raised tobacco with much success, selling various consignments ; in Santa Fe at ^10 [30 shillings] per arrobe. In 1870 the colonists numbered 160 souls, but partly owing to bad manage- ment and still more to attacks from Indians, who killed two colonists and plundered the place, the manager running away, the settlement was gradually abandoned, and there are now but three families remaining. They have a mUl and some houses strongly fenced in. Henriet has 7000 tobacco plants, which gave him last year 2500 lbs. Of maize and wheat the crop has been 330 fanegas. Alexandra, between the rivers San Javier and Saladillo Amargo, is north of Fort San Javier, in the Gran Chaco, form- ing part of an area of 22 square leagues, which Messrs. Thom- son, Bonar, and Company, of London, obtained from the Santa Fe Government. Farms of 100 acres for 62Z., payable in four years, without interest, or iOl. each. Advances of 50Z. worth of cattle, seed, &c., to poor settlers, to be repaid in three years, at 10 per cent, interest. There are 9 leagues of fine high lands for agriculture; the rest is swampy. There are three settle- ments marked out A, 100 English colonists ; B, 250 Waldenses arrived in August, 1872, from Piedmont ; C, 150 Swiss fami- lies. Only one-fourth Catholics ; they are in a kind of village close to the agency-offices, which cover a site of 4 acres, sur- rounded by a palisade. The colony was marked out in 1870 (whep Mr. Weguelin was killed by the Indians) ; an area of 600 acres has been fenced in. In April, 1872, Colonel Obligado was sent to garrison a fort on El Eey, so that now the colony will be less exposed. It is 46 leagues overland from Santa Fe. The colonists are admirably supplied with everything — steam- boat, lighters, traction-engine, steam-mill, machines for plough- COLONIES OF THE ABGBNTDfB KBPUBLIO. 57 ing, reaping and brickmaking, camp-store, forge, bakery, car- penter, butcher, &c., and 430 head of cattle. It is proposed to plant sugar-cane and rice. Berfstadt, so called from the Swiss settlers, is at the Eoldan station, 4 leagues by rail from Eosario. It was the first of the Central Argentine colonies. The first batch of twenty-five families arrived from Switzerland in March, 1870, and found houses, wells, farming implements, &c., in readiness for them on the ground. A second batch arrived three months later ; and the colony now comprises 385 families, who have 394 farms under cultivation. The Company advanced most of them, free passage from Europe, farm implements, food, houses, &c., repayable in two years. The farm-lots are of 80 acres, which are sold at ^ IZ. per acre, or rented 11. per cuadra (one shilling per acre). The colonists have 394 houses, 30,000 trees, 2100 horses and cows, a school-house, &c. One of the colonists,' who arrived in March, 1870, sold his whe^at crop for 1400 Bolivian dollars — 240/!. sterling. The rate of sowing was 15 quintals per acre (60 per quadra), and the yield was up to 35 for 1. The colony raises abundance of butter, cheese, eggs, and vegetables, for the Bosario market. The schools are attended by 80 children. Two chapels, Catholic and Protestant, are being built. Besides the Swiss there is a sprinkling of English, Germans, and French. A municipality is formed for the village in the centre, where there are already good brick houses. Colonists who wish to buy, instead of renting their land, are allowed four years to pay, without interest. Excellent water is obtained at 10 or 12 feet deep: The soil is admirably suited for cereals. The colony has an area of 4 square leagues (2600 acres), of which three-fourths are settled on. Mr. Perkins, the manager, speaks highly of the colonists, who are about 1500 Catholics and 500 Protestants. There are 174 farm-lots yet to be disposed of. This colony possesses two extraordinary advantages, in its entire security from Indians and the easy access to Eosario, that market . being less than an hour's journey by railway. At 58 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVBB PLATE. Bernstadt the Company have established a model-farm of 330 acres for accHmatizing plants and trees A small new colony is at San Geronimo, 2 leagues farther along the railway : area 800 acres. Although little over four years old, its population exceeds that of any other colony in the Eiver Plate, and the colonists have already 40,000 acres under tUlage. Garcarand, on the river of the same name, '9 leagues from Eosario, is another of the Central Argentine colonies, offering the same conditions and advantages as Bernstadt. It covers 8 square leagues of fine, rolling country, on either side of the river. WeU water is good, hut 60 feet deep. Favourable soil for wheat and potatoes. A town is projected near the railway station i building lots of 50 feet front are given gratis. The colony is only a year old, and there are already 168 farms imder cultivation, 400 more remaining to be taken up. The popula- tion is 510, including 100 Protestants: 89 families are occu- pied in farming, and 13 in the village. They are mostly French and Swiss, with a few Italians and English, It is thought this colony will even beat Bernstadt, the lands being higher and better, and the settlers first-class French farmers. The Company is forming a model-farm of 1000 acres on the far side of the CarcaraSa river. Canada Gomez is a first-class English settlement. The first settler, Mr. Paul Eiell, has 830 acres fenced in under tillage, ■ and reaped last year 9000 quarters of wheat and maize. The formhouse and agricultural machinery are probably unrivalled in the country. The other farms are in lots of 400 acres each, chiefly under wheat, but Messrs. Hope plant flax on a large scale. Mr. West reaped in 1870, 120 acres of wheat and 100 of maize. Not far removed are the admirable farms of Las Lomas and Las Eosas, belonging to Englishmen, who have spent large fortunes in importing prize horses and cattle, supe- rior machinery, &c. Garrett's threshing machine, which took the prize at Cordoba, a steam-plough, and other first-class farming implements are in use at Canada Gomez. The Cricket Club counts 60 members, the Central Argentine Company COLONIES OP THE AEGBNTINE EKPUBLIO. 59 having given the ground free. A site of 400 acres is marked out for a town, 130 quintas of 4 acres each around it. The ground is high and commailds a fine view. Water exceUent, varying from 15 to 40 feet. Wheat gives 30 for 1. Flax also yields splendidly. The colony forms the third station on the raUway, and is 14 leagues from Eosario. There are 181 farm- lots of 100 acres, sold or rented to English, German, and other settlers; the total population being 335, of whom 200 are Protestants. Mr. HeUand, of Mecklenburg, who came out , in 1866, was three years in charge of Krell's estate, and has now a farm of 800 acres of his own. His improvements in planting, &c., are wonderful, and although he landed here with- out money he is worth over 2000Z. Mr. Krell has expended a large sum on steam-plough, steam-thresher, patent reapers, &e., besides importing blood cattle. His stock comprises 2000 cows and horses and 4000 sheep. The Krell estate covers 6000 acres. Near the old village of Canada Gomez the Com- pany has rented out 1000 acres among thirty native families. There are 200 farm-lots of 100 acres to be disposed of. Tortugas, the fourth Central Argentine colony, is on the feontier line of Santa Fe and Cordoba. It was formed in 1871 of thirty-four families imported from Lombardy and Piedmont, who have thirty-nine farms under tillage. The land is the best on the route to Cordoba, the plains remaining green even in dry seasons. The manager's house is surrounded by the others, each occupied by a family. The settlers are all Catholics, and there are 529 farms yet to be disposed of: the colony has an area of 4 sq^uare leagues. Sansa, founded in 1871 by Messrs. Tietjen, of Eosario, at the Totoral, 4 leagues N. of Canada Gomez, has an area of a square league. Farm-lots of 80 acres at 50Z., payable in three years, the owners also advancing cattle, implements, and food to the settlers, who must be Germans or Scandinavians ; all Pro- testants, occupying about 800 acres, and raising cbeese. There are seventy lots to be disposed of. Germania, founded in 1870 by Mr. Nordenholz, German 60 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEB PLATE. Consul, 6 leagues north of Canada Gomez. Lots of 100 acres for 601. payable in three years, the settler having to fence in the land and plant 500 trees. Thirty farms are occupied by German and Scandinavian settlers. At present the colony fita in a square league, but Mr. Notdenholz proposes to enlarge it to four : he has put up a steam-mill and got machinery and farming implements of the most improved kind, besides, which he gives new settlers food, seed, cattle, &c. The Germania and Hansa colonies are within easy reach of Canada Gomez railway station. Nueva Italia, 4 leagues from Eosario, on the road to San Lorenzo, was founded by the Italian Consul, Luigi Fetich, in 1871, on a slip of land with 600 yards frontage on the Parana, and 1^ league in depth. The settlers got garden lots of 12 acres, \?ith advances of oxen, ploughs, and food, paying hack same, besides 65Z. for their lots, and interest at the rate of 1 per cent, a month. Fifteen Italian families have settled here, all Catholics, and they are likely to do well, as there is demand for market-garden produce at Eosario. Jesus-Maria, founded at the close of 1870, on Grondana's camps, by Cullen and Aldao, is 8 leagues from Eosario, on the banks of the Parand,, with a port suitable for vessels. The first settlers from Piedmont and Lombardy arrived in No- vember, 1870, and more have been engaged. The situation, soil, &c., are excellent. The colony has an area of 6 square leagues, and is cut up in 500 farms, which are sold at 120Z. each lot of 80 acres, the same payable in three years, without interest, or 80Z. cash. Each settler has to give one fanega in 100 of wheat, towards school fund. The coast line on the Paran4 extends 15 miles, and offers every facility for shipping. Since the foundation (November, 1870) there have been 6 deaths, 6 marriages, and 80 births. The colony has its own steam-mill, drug-store,, grocery, priest, manager, and justice ; and a handsome chapel. The colonists, 950 in number, are all Catholics, chiefly Italians, COLONIES OF THE AEGBNTINB REPUBLIC. 61 and Tery prosperous. Last year's crop gave 17,000 fanegas. There are 1900 cows and horses, 505 ploughs and harrows, 80 wagons, 25 reaping or threshing machines. Candelaria, founded in November, 1870, by Mr. Charles Casado, of Eosario, is 9 leagues from that town. It comprises 1000 farm-lots of 60 acres each, price lOOZ. each, payable in three years, without interest ; 324 farms have already been taken up by English, French, Swiss, and Italians, and some of the settlers are of those who came out for the Henly Flax Colony. The of5cial representative of Mr. Casado in Europe is Mr. P. Albarracin, Antwerp ; and in Buenos Ayres, Mr. A. Albarracin, of 261, CaUe San Martin. Those settlers who prefer to take farms as tenants will have to pay a rent of lOZ. a year for a 60-acre lot. There are 111 houses, 268 ploughs, 960 cows and horses, some carpenters' and blacksmiths' shops, and a grand agency built by Mr. Casado, with spacious offices. The land is reputed the best in Santa Pe. Last crop, 5800 fanegas. Villa Urguiza was founded in 1858, about 2 leagues above the town of Parana, in lots of 20 acres, which are found too small, obliging many of the colonists to move over to Santa Pe. The settlers are half native, half foreigners, and raise 5000 fanegas of wheat : tobacco grows well, and cotton was tried, but abandoned after two years. There are many well-built houses, fine plantations, a chapel for Protestant settlers, a windmill, a steam-mill in construction ; 3 schools, attended by 130 boys and 50 girls, who learn French, German and Spanish : there are also 14 shops, 5 brick-kilns, an inn, lime quarries, smithies, carpenters' shops, &c., besides 618 wagons, ploughs and harrows, 3000 cows and horses, and 2000 sheep, A handsome church and town-hall are being built. The Protestant chapel is closed, the congregation depending on rare visits of the pastor of Hel- vetia colony, in Santa Fe. The Legislature of Entre Eios has at last ceded 20,000 acres (3 square leagues) towards allowing the colonists more room, in farms of 56 acres each. There are 800 settlers, in 132 families, one-half being Protestant. 62 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. San Jose, with a port called Colon, opposite Paysandu, wag founded by General Urquiza in 1856. The colonists got free passage from Europe, seed, implements, food, cattle, and land- ■ grants of 124 acres, on condition of giving in return one-third of their crops for the first five years. The colonists soon paid up everything, and the settlement was so well managed that they are all now very prosperous ; the cultivated lots are worth lOOZ. to 300Z. Nearly one-half are Swiss, and the rest French or Italians, besides four German and four American families; they have two churches and three schools, the latter attended by 300 children. Their stock comprises 4020 horned cattle and 900 horses ; they have 44,000 fruit trees, and their crop last year, including 20,000 fanegas of wheat and maize, realized 30,OOOZ. The average price they obtain for wheat is ^10 Bol., and through their port of Yilla Colon they export large quantities of butter, poultry, vegetables, &c. A fence 6 leagues in length' has recently been put up to protect the farms from stray cattle. There are 522 farms under cultivation, and 50 new lots of 64 acres may be had for 50Z. each. The executors of General Urquiza intend to establish another colony 2 leagues W. of Concepcion. The San Jose colony counts 1991 souls, not including 1000 in the port of Colon. In 1871 there were 133 births, 13 marriages, and 29 deaths. There are 418 houses, 14 shops, 1 steam and 2 wind mills, also 130 beehives. The taxes in 1871 gave ^2776. Benites' saladero is near this colony. There axe 150 Protestants in the colony. The ex- ports in 1872 included 7 pipes of rum and wine produced on the spot. Sugues, a private colony, founded about a year ago a little south-west of San Jose. Farm-lots of 65 acres for 50Z., pay- able in four years. There are 63 farms yet to be disposed of. - Baradero colony was established in February, 1856, the municipality giving free land-grants of 12 acres to ten fanulies, who were joined by eight others the following month, npw com- prising 816 chacras of 8 acres, and 275 quintas of 2 acres, the COLONIES OF THE AEGENTINB EEPUBLIO. 63 latter paying 5s., the former 15s. (^90) rent per annum. A law has been passed to sell the holdings to the present occupiers at 300 paper dollars per cuadra, or 12s. per acre. Two-thirds of the colonists are Swiss and the rest are Basques, Italians, and natives. Cultivated lots are sold at 2Z. per acre. The crop produced over 33,000Z., and the value of the houses and plan- tations is estimated at 50,000Z. The returns show 145,000 fanegas of grain and potatoes, besides 18,000 dozen eggs, 60,000 arrobes wool and 35,000 arrobes tallow. The stock comprises 24,000 sheep, 12,000 cows, and 600 horses. Concordia, 25 leagues W. of Bragado, is a new colony in the Pampas, under the direction of D. Feliz Brizuela. The first twenty-five families who settled there in 1872 received free farm-lots of 200 acres, garden lots of 8 acres, and building lots of 2 acres. Each family is provided with cattle, seeds, imple- ments, &c., for which they are allowed three years to repay, without interest. Chuput, the Welsh colony in Patagonia, was founded by Mr. Lewis Jones in September, 1865, the settlers numbering 180 souls. The National Government 'spent 2000Z. in supplies for their use, but in 1867 they were on the point of abandoning the place. They have 30 houses, a chapel, 200 milch cows, and 100 horses. They raise wheat, maize, &c., trading with Buenos Ayres and bartering with the Pehuelches Indians for ostrich feathers, skins, &c'. They live on excellent terms with the Indians, who have often helped them with provisions. At present there are 120 colonists. Chivilcoy can no longer be counted among the colonies, as it is now the most important department in Buenos Ayres. Popu- lation, 16,000; area under crops, 150,000 acres; crop as by railway returns, 250,000 fanegas of wheat and maize. 64 HANDBOOK OF THE KIVEE PLATE. CHAPTEE V. RAILWAYS AND PDBLIO WORKS. There are over 1000 miles of railway in actual traffic in the Eiver Plate, consisting of 12 lines in the Argentine EepuhHc, 2 in Banda Oriental, and 1 in Paraguay. There are also 7 Argentine and 2 Oriental lines in construction, making up another 1000 miles; besides a dozen concessions, in the aggre- gate 2000 miles, not yet commenced. Argentine Bepuhlic. 1. Central Argentine, Eosario to Cordoba, length 245f miles, cost at 6400Z. per mile, say 1,600,000Z. ; net profits equal to 5 per cent. Constructed in 1863-70 by Brassey, Wythes, and Wheelwright. Stock held mostly in England. Company has land-grant of a million acres, and flourishing colonies. Govern- ment guaranteed 7 per cent., and paid from 1867 to 1874 the sum of 272,000Z. on account of same. 2. Villa Maria to Eio Cuarto, length 82 nules, cost 5200Z. per mile, say 420,000Z. ; constructed in 1870-3 for the National Government, by Mr. Peter Stuart. Branches off from Central Argentiae. Gross receipts only 3 per cent, on cost of con- struction. 3. Western, Buenos Ayres to Chivilcoy, 102 miles, cost 10,000Z. per mile, say 1,020,000Z.; carried 820,000 passengers and 152,000 tons in 1873 ; working expenses 62 per cent. ; profits equal to 83 div. First line made (1857-66) in these countries ; belongs to Provincial Government of Buenos Ayres, 4. Western branch to Lobos, 42J mUes, cost 4200Z. per mile, say 180,000Z. ; carried 40,000 passengers and 11,000 tons; working ARGENTINE RAILWAYS. A HuiQos Ay res Western, to Chivilcoy, liH miles. a Branch to Lobos, 42 miles. B Uuenos Ayres Northern, to Tigre, 20 miles. Hnenos Ayres Great Southern, to Dolores, ViO miles. D lir.inch to Las Flores, 75 miles. E Rosario to Cordoba, Central Argentine, 24G miles. F Villa Maria to Rio Cuarto, 82 miles. G Buenos Ayres to Ensenada, 37 miles. H Concoi-dia to Federacion, East Argentine, 'Mi miles. /» Construction K Buenos Ayres to Rosario, 185 miles. k Branches to Rojas, Pergamino, &c., 240 miles. Ii Buenos Ayres to Port Campana, 40 miles. M Central Northern, Cordoba to Tucuman. S3(> miles. N Aniline, Kio Cuarto to Rio Quinto, 76 miles. Kederaciou to Caseros, East Argentine, oj miles. P Chivilcoy to Bragado, Western, 30 miles. P)-ojected or Conceded ^=== Transandinc, Buenos Ayres to Mendozn, San Juan, and Chili, 900 miles. Bragado and Planchon to Chile, 650 miles. Rioja to Copiapo (Chile), 300 miles. Totoralejos to Rioja (branch of Great Northern), 200 miles. Parana to Concepcion, 155 miles. Siiuta Ke to Swiss Colonies, 17 miles. Las Flores to Azul and Tandil, Great Southern, 130 miles Corrientes to Mercedes, 138 miles. Caseros to Mercedes, 91 miles. X 2 Bahia Bl-inca to Tandil, 140 miles. Z 2 Las Heras (Lobos line) to 25 de Mayo, 75 miles. REPUBLIC OF URUGUAY. Open. Monte Video to Durazno, Central Uru- guay, 135 miles. In Construction. Branch of above, from Santa Lucia to Higueritas, 140 miles. North-Western, Salto to Santa Rosa, 110 miles. Monte Video to Minas, 90 miles. PARAGUAY. Open. Asuncion to Villa Rica; open 40 miles, to Paraguary. RIO GRANDE. Open. Port Alegre to New Hamburg, 26 miles. Pr. settled in 1864 in the Naposta valley, 4 miles from the town. In 1865 came Mr. Arnold, a North American, also in the Naposta. The present English settlers are Fred. B. Cobbold, John C. Sinclair, James Donner, M. J. Cobbold, Thomas W. Smith, C. 8. Broadbend, C. Shuttle, WiUiam Lane, J. Hutchinson, Thomas G. Nicholson, G. Shuttle, John G. Walker, Enrique P. Cheeke, George E. Catley, Henry John Edwards, Arthur Mildred, Thomas E. Wood, John Mildred, H. Linwood, Percy Dobson, Brian Smith, H. A. Brackenbury, E. E. Hutchinson, J. E. Fawcas, Joseph Eushton, A. W. Parker, Philip H. Holmes, A. MoLachlan. There are at present over 200,000 sheep io the district. The climate being dry the wools are light and not very greasy, but the increase of the flocks is something extraordiuary. There is at Bahia Blanca an unpretending inn, but English- men usually put up at the house of Mr. George Little, a North American, who has one of the best shops in the place. The Comandante, Colonel Jose Llano, is also very kind to strangers, , as well as the Justice of Peace, Don Mariano Mendez, and Captain Coronti. The principal wholesale houses are those of Francisco Bozano, Mariano Mendez, Galvan and Co., Julian Calvente, Miranda, and B. Costa. Parties wanting wagons may apply to Santiago Bonfiglio or Manuel Echagues, the first a Lombard, the second a Basque : both are worthy of all con- fidence, and their charges are reasonable. There are no livery stables in the place, but if the stranger wish to make an THE PROVINCE OF BUENOS ATEES. ia excursion lie must look up Hypolito Bramajo, Cayetano Arze, or J. Bustos, who tave always fine relays of horses at a rea- sonable charge : these men are experienced guides and riiost trustworthy. If the visitor wish to push his excursions some distance into the Indian country he will do well to hire an Indian guide, and the most trustworthy are Pedro Lucero and Jose Andres Milipil ; the latter is brother-in-law to the Cacique Ancalao. These men also serve as guides in making the journey overland to Patagones, a distance of over 40 leagues. The traveller must be careful in hiring any other guide than the above named, unless well recommended by Mr. Little, Senoi Coronti, or the Justice of Peace. Bahia Blanca is only 115 leagues overland from Buenos Ayres, but the distance by sea is double. The land journey is tedious and dif&cult : there is a regular mail-coach service. The sea voyage varies according to the weather, and may be reckoned at five days. The state-schools are attended by 54 boys and 42 girls. The port returns show 21 vessels, with 16&5 tons burden. Patagones, situate 160 leagues from Buenos Ayres, compre- hends the tail-end of the South American continent, from the Eio Negro to the Straits of Magellan, between the 41st and 53rd degrees of south latitude, and 65 and 72 west longitude, the eastern boundary being the Atlantic, and the western a snowy range of mountains called Cordillera de Nieve, a pro- longation of the Andes chain. This vast territory is about six times the extent of England: it is as yet for the most part unexplored. The first impressions of the Eio Negro, as the traveller proceeds up the river towards the port of El Carmen, are highly agreeable: the bluffs on the north side are about 150 feet high, and the valley is about 2 leagues wide, the river winding its way picturesquely between the cuchillas of sandstone. Ascending the cuchilla we come upon a vast plain, in some places sandy, in others of argillaceous soil, and again L 2 148 HANDBOOK OP THE PJVEE ELATE. covered with small pebbles caUed "piedras chinas." The vegetation is mostly of " pastos fuertes " intermiagled ■witli " alfilerillo," and here and there a number of thorny shrubs, such as "chanar," "piquillin," "algarroba," " mata-perro," "una de gato," "maqui de inoienso": this last gives a resin which when burnt yields an odour like incense. These shrubs seldom grow higher than a man on horseback, although the " chanar " trees often give good spade and axe handles. The brushwood is no obstacle to horses or cows, but it tears the wool off sheep. The soil in the valley is of rich alluvial deposits, sometimes a little salty, and is fertilized by the river, which has two annual floods, one in summer from the melting of the snows of the Andes, the second and greater one in winter from the rains in the same mountain ranges. Eain is rare, and the climate may be called dry. It is a pity somebody does not project a joint-stock company for farming the beautiful island of Choelechoel, six days by steamer from Patagones, up the Eio Negro. Last AprU the National Government sent a steamer to explore, which ascended 390 miles, or 30 miles higher than any previous expedition, and the party reported this island to be 60 miles long, with an average width of 7 miles, the soil exceedingly rich, the woods in clumps on all sides, affording shelter to abundance of deer and ostriches. With a steamer of 4 feet draught for the Eio Negro, a settlement at Choelechoel of twenty well-armed Englishmen would have little to fear from Indians. There is no part of the province where trees thrive so well as here, and the traveller is struck by the rows of poplars and fruit trees on all sides, especially in the islands of the river. The vine does remarkably well, and the Chocoli wine would be much better if more care were taken with this industry. ■ The rivers and lagoons are lined with indigenous willows, called " Sauce Colorado " : the wood-cutters make " balsas " of this timber, which they sell at El Carmen, as it is very useful for THE PKOVINCB OF BUENOS AXKES. 149 corral posts, building, &o. The river in winding througi the valley forms a number of "rincones" of amazing fertility, which are easily fenced in for grazing and agricultural purposes. Of all the settlements attempted by the old Spaniards on the shores of Patagonia, that of the Rio Negro or Patagones is the only one now existing. In 1833, when Eosas made his grand expedition to the desert, he gave a great impulse to Patagones ; he distributed cattle and agricultural implements among the poor inhabitants, garrisoned the island of Choelechoel, and founded a new town called Guardia Constitucion. The place being thus protected, cattle multiplied amazingly, and the salt deposits were soon in full work. Salina del Ingles is situate near the coast, Salina de Piedra 8 leagues N. of the town, and Salina de Espuma 5 leagues W.N.W. of the town, about half a league from the river. At the same time the saladeros were in full play, wheat was sown on a large scale, and every- thing promised well. The fall of Eosas brought a vast 'change : the Indians devastated the whole country, and the Cacique Yanquetruz boasted that he would reduce the wretched inhabitants " to live on hares' flesh.'' He kept his word to the letter, for the poor people had actually to subsist for a time on hares. The present Comandante, Don Julian Murga, made peace with the Indians, built a fort called Guardia Mitre, about 15 leagues above Patagones, brought a stock of 60,000 sheep into the valleys, and encouraged settlers. The " salinas " of La Piedra and La Espuma are now in full work ; and the wheat crop is even larger than at Bahia Blanca. Maize, zapallos, melons, potatoes, &c., do remarkably well. Sheep thrive notably. There is a group of seventeen Italian families on the south bank, opposite China Muerta : they make excellent hams and cheese. There are but four English families, viz. Eev. Dr. Humble, wife and children ; Mr. John Holmes (war steamer ' Eio Negro') and wife; W. Humphreys, Welsh carpenter, wife and four children, and a Welsh boatman, named Solomon, with his wife and son. 150 I HANDBOOK OF THE BIVEE PLATE. The shop of Mr. Bang, a German, is the Foreign Club of the place, and Mr. Bang keeps two vessels trading direct here from Hamburg, making two trips every year, which enables him to sell goods as cheap as in Buenos Ayres. Another English resort is the inn of mine host Bartolo Bartolero, a worthy Italian, at whose house all new comers should put up. The charge is K35 m/e per day, including English spoken, and capital accommodation. Colonel Bernal, the Comandante, is most friendly to Englisb-; men, and Mr. Atkins wUlj also give them any assistance in his power. The fare from Buenos Ayres by sailing vessel is ^500 ; by steamer ^800 m/o first-class, the latter making the trip in four days. The mail-coach from Las Flores, on the Southern Eailway, takes the same time. There are in Patagones two kinds of sheep ; the pampas are large, robust, and long-wooled : they were brought hither by the Indians from Chile, and have some affinity to goats. The meat is very savoury. The ewes have often twin-lambs, which they rear without any difficulty. This race would answer well for crossing with smooth-wooled sheep, and Messrs. Kincaid are going to cross them with English breeds. The second kind of sheep in Patagones is the ordinary mestiza breed. The best guide is Cochengo Piedra-Buena, but we can also recommend Ureno and Agustin Sosa. Wagons are difficult to obtain .unless at exorbitant rates: for the south side apply to Solano Alderete, San Javier, or the Italians in front of China- Muerta; most of the latter reside in the town. The Eio Negro divides Patagones into two distinct towns : the commercial and old town is on the north side, comprising the wholesale houses of Aguirre and Murga, Abate, Dasso, Mascarelo, &c. On the south side lived Mr. SheUer, of the Falkland Islands, whose beautiful quinta now belongs to the English Missionary station, where Eev. Mr. Humble, M.D., has a chapel, school, and dis- pensary. Freight to Buenos Ayres is usually g6 fts. per ton. State-school attended by 90 children. THE PEOVINCE OF BTJENOg AYBBS. 151 The town of Carmen is so healthy that no doctor could get a living. A recent visitor recommends Patagones to new immigrants in these words : — " Not only is land offered free to settlers without capital, but Messrs. Aguirre and Murga make all advances for twelve months of provisions, implements, &c., the only draw- backs being a scarcity of hands and the occasional risk of locusts." The principal estancias are along the banks of the Negro, i those on the north being English, on the south side native, situ- ated at bends of the river, or " rincones," up to nearly 30 leagues from the town of Carmen. The river varies from 40 to 200 yards in width, the current running about 5 miles an hour. It is navigable for steamers drawing 4 feet, all the year, as high as Choelechoel, six days' journey up stream. The farthest settlers are the four Welsh families who came hither five years since from Chupat. These families make butter and cheese, which they send by Kincaid's spring cart to Patagones, where the retail price of butter is ^12 m/c, or - 2«. per lb. The fine estancia of Balcleuther belongs to Messrs. Kincaid, the first English settlers on the Eio Negro, who came hither in 1866 with sheep from Azul, and may be considered the founders of this thriving little Colony. The estancia house is azotea, brick built, like an English farm-house, with all the appoint- rnents of farm-sheds, Howard's machinery, corrals made of willow and poplar, and some 7000 sheep. Farm-lots on the ' estancia, which is 2 square leagues or 13,000 acres in extent, are held by Captain McGregor (late 93rd Highlanders), the brothers Buckland, Mr. Adamson, and a Welsh family named Wilson, whose wheat crops this year will make up an aggregate pf 600 fanegas. Some of these tenants are only three years , established here. ; Messrs. Kincaid's house is about 18 leagues from the town, at a bend of the river, and on the opposite or south bank they have 152 HANDBOOK OP THE KIVEE PLATK. a Pulperia, or camp store for Indian trade : this is in charge of the Cacique Hernandez, who has an Indian family around him and keeps two boats for crossing over to the estancia, the river being here about 200 yards wide. The Indians come at inter- vals during nine months of the year, to barter their skins, the other three months being their hunting season. The land trafie is at present done by carts, which charge ^600 (5Z. sterling) each trip, say 20 leagues. Even at this price it will be difficult this year to obtain carts and peons to bring the wheat to market, as the English have the heaviest crop yet known, fully 4000 bushels. Farm-labourers can always earn K400 per month, besides board, but they are so scarce that many settlers are glad to do with tame Indians or gauchos, and on some farms one- fourth of the crop has been lost for want of hands. The estancia of Messrs. Frazer, Greenstreet, and GreenfeU is 3 leagues nearer town than that of Kincaid. Mr. Frazer is an Irish gentleman, who served as a lieutenant in the British army, and settled here shortly after Kincaid. The estancia San Andres, as it is called, covers 2 square leagues, and is stocked with 8000 sheep, besides having a wheat-farm that yields some 1500 bushels. It is little over four hours' ride from toTm, and 2 leagues inside the fort of Captain Moreno, who has a gar- rison of 40 men. Messrs. Frazer and Co. keep about a dozen men always employed, and have a fine azotea house, with a boat for crossing the river, which is here 200 yards wide. On the south bank of the Eio Negro, about 9 leagues from town, is the estancia of two Caciques named Miguel and Manuel Linares, the former a colonel in the Argentine service, who has 100 Indians at his call to repel any inroad of marauders: this place is called San Gabriel, and the men raise much wheat. They are nominally Christians, and have their children baptized. Aguirre and Murga, whose pasture and tillage farms are scattered over 40 leagues, have twenty English threshing-ma- chines. They own also the steamer which plies to Buenos Th!E PBOVINCE op BUENOS AYEB8. 153 Ayres, have tlie concession for working the Salinas and con- structing a railway thither, and their saladero loads three or four ships every month. Mr. Hume and the other engineers began the surveys last November for the line to Salinas. This railway will traverse 40 miles of level camp, on the north side of the river, almost uninhabited, as far as the Salinas. The export of salt from Patagones varies from 100 to 500 tons monthly, chiefly for Buenos Ayres and Eio Grande. A bag of 150 lbs. salt costs in Patagones Si m/c, or 8d. English. Don Domingo Oro's mill, a league nearer than Salina Chica, is unable to grind enough flour for local wants. Most of the wheat is bought by Aguirre and others, who ship it to Buenos Ayres. 154 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVBE PLATE. CHAPTER VIII. SANTA FE. Santa F^ was first colonized by Cabot, who founded a little settlement in 1527, under tbe name of Sancti-Spiritus, on an island at tbe moutb of the Coronda river. The territory of the province extends from 29 to 33^ degrees S. lat., having an area of 36,500 square miles. The boundaries are — North, the Arroyo del Eey, which flows through the Gran Chaeo, and debouches into the Parana, in front of Goya. uth, the go Arroyo del Medio, which separates the province from Buenos Ayres. East, the river Parana. West, the Eio Salado on the side of Santiago del Estero, the Quebracho valley and Tortugas stream on the side of Cordoba. When the navigator Cabot ascended the river to Paraguay the fort of Sancti-Spiritus soon fell into the hands of the Timbii and Quiloaza Indians, descendants of the Guaranis ; but some years later, Garay made a second settlement, some of his men intermarrying with the Indians. In this manner the city of S*» Ee was founded in 1573. The province comprises four departments : Sq. Miles. Public Lands. Priv. Prop. Santa Fe . . . 22,000 12,600 9,400 San Jose . . . . 2,100 2,100 San Geronimo . . 5,000 40 4,860 Rosario . 7,400 1,100 6,300 The first is almost entirely in the Chaco, on which side the frontier is every day advancing with new settlements. Until very recently the northen line of limits was supposed to start from San Javier, the Calif ornian colony in front of La Paz, on SANTA TE. 155 the Parana, and run almost due west by the following forts : — Palo-labrado, Cayasta-vieja, Mortero, Chanar, Cerrito, Bisca- chera, Nanducito, Canibara, and Monigotes ; crossing the old Sunchales route from S'" Fe to Santiago, about 7 leagues N. of the colony of Sunchales, which latter was 18 leagues from S" Fe city. Inside the frontier the camps for the most part are low and flat ; those stretching from the Carcarana to the north are in many places swampy. At present the land mostly settled on are those from the PaYon to the Carcarand, and thereabouts it is difficult to obtain estancias, but a little farther out estancia lands, well watered, and even in some places with wood, can be purchased at from 500Z. to 750Z. sterling per square league, say two shillings an acre. Not far from Eosario lands bought in 1867 for K2000 are now fetching from ^40,000 to ^50,000 per square league. Yet the public lands still held by Govern- ment cover 15,000 square miles. The land laws of S" Fe are very liberal, the Government using every exertion to invite foreign settlers. By a law passed in 1866 all the territory north of the Salado and west of the Parang as far inland as the Saladillo Grande, is set apart for immigration purposes. Suertes of estancia, 4500 acres in extent, will be sold for the trifling sum of 40Z. ; if the settler be an agri- culturist he will receive a grant of 83 acres in fee. Another law gives a suerte gratis to any settler who will put 81000 worth of cattle on the ground, make a well, and build a rancho and wooden fort. On the Arroyo San Antonio (12 leagues N. of Esperanza) if twenty families club together to settle there they wUl receive a free grant, each, of 1600 acres. All the above are in the Gran Chaco. The ^ariff prices of public lands in the province of S** Fe proper is as follows, per square league : $ Department of Eosario, witliui 8 leagues of the Parang . . 3000 Department of Eosario bordering on the OarcaraBa, Pavon, or Arroyo Medio 2000 Department of Eosario, in any other part 1500 156 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. Depwtment of CorondS, within 8 leagues of the CorondS, $ and 4 leagues of the Carcarana 2000 Department of Oorondd, in any other part 1500 S'* Fe and San Jose', within 8 leagues of S*" Fe', on either sideofSalado 1200 S** Fe and San Jos^, in any other part 800 The usual mode of payment is, one-third cash, one-third at six months, and one-third at twelve months. Attempts are being made to restore the old settlement of El Eey, opposite the port of Goya on the Parand^ which was a Jesuit mission in the last century, surrounded with fertUe lands that produce cotton, tobacco, &c. The territory westward of El Eey for 300 miles, in the direction of Santiago del Estero, is mostly thick forest, interspersed with swamps, and in many places'' open prairies. The chief watercourses are the Salado and Saladillo ; on the banks of the former, above Esquino Grande, are the ruined missions of San Pedro and Espin ; 70 leagues W. of the last-named place is Lake Porongos, where the provinces of Cordoba and Santiago meet. The province of Santa Fe was until recently the poorest and most thinly populated in the Eepublic, but has sprung into great importance from its flourishing Swiss colonies and numer- ous English settlers, at the same time that the rising commerce of Eosario and the Central Argentine Eailway have tended still further to develop the resources of this part of the country. An idea of the importance of agricultural interests may be ' formed from the fact that Santa Fe with her thirty colonies has 433,680 acres under tillage, cultivated by 12,000 able-bodied Europeans, and producing 825,000 bushels of wheat, without counting maize, vegetables, &c. These colonies are increasing at the rate of 2000 new settlers yearly, who pay from ^5 to ^30 per cuadra, say five to thirty shillings per acre. Farming lands for pasture are of course much cheaper ; 200Z. per square league near the frontier to ten or twenty times that figure in more favoured districts. The following list of estancias, in the various districts, is SANTA FE. 157 prepared from an official map just publisted (1873) by Mr. Chapeaurouge, of the province of S*" Fe ; it will be seen that Mr. Armstrong of Buenos Ayres is one of the largest pro- prietors. Arroyo del Medio. — The limit between Buenos Ayres and Santa Fe is the Arroyo del Medio, after crossing which we meet the Palacios and Armstrong estancias, the former near the battle- field of Pavon, the latter extending from Fort Melincue east- ward, the fort being at the point where the three provinces of Buenos Ayres, Cordoba, and Santa Fe meet. The principal property holders in this part of the province are : Sq. Leagues. Armstrong .. .. 30 Zubelzu 25 Urquiza 22 Clark 10 Paz .. Palacios ChjaTarri Sq. Leagues. 6 3 Below the Saladillo. — Before reaching the Saladillo we meet another large estancia of Armstrong's. The extent of the chief properties is as follows : Sotomayor Santa Grnz Sq. Leagues. .. 30 .. 25 PereyraFiias.. Armstrong Sq. Leagues .. 12 ' .. 20 Saa-Pereyra . . Valdez Casco . . .. 15 .. 10 CuUen .. .. 5 Above the Saladillo. — The various estancias between the Saladillo and the Carcarana are as follows : Sq. Leagues. Sq. Leagues Urquiza .. .. 10 London Bank.. 3 Oastellanos 5 Colmau . . 2 Leguizamon . . 4 Vidal .. .. 1 Sotomayor 4 Correa . . . . 4 Casado . . 4 Blyth .. .. 1 Carcarana and Canada Gomez. — The district north of Carcarana is bisected by the Central Argentine EaUway, adja- 158 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVBE PLATE. cent to which are colonies of Bernstadt, Canada Gomez, &c. The best land is said to be in Canada Gomez, where Mr. Paul Krell has also a magnificent model -farm with steam-ploughs and all improvements. The estancias north of Carcarana are as follow : Sq. Leagues. Sq. Leagues Armstrong 16 Oasado .. .. 6 Otero .. . .. 16 Peralta .. .. ., ' i Areoaa .. 12 Bayo .. .. Friaa 7 Medina . . 3 Oliva .. . 5 Videla Luna . . 6 Correa . .. 7 Hue 3 San Lorenzo. — Near San Lorenzo we find half-a-dozen es- tancias, the most remarkable being that of the Jesus Maria colony, belonging to Mr. Cullen, well situated on the banks of the Parana : Sq. Leagues. Sq. Leagues Zubelzu .. 6 Palaoios .. . .. 3 Cullen .. . .. 4 Irigoyen .. . .. 2 Andino . . .. .. 5 LatoiTe . . . .. 4 San Oeronimo. — San Geronimo is a large district with 50 estancias, of which nearly one-half belongs to English settlers. Sq. Leagues. Sq. Leagues Lafone . 32 Fratoa .. .. 5 Zubelzu . 12 Peyton .. .. 1 Gowland . 10 Parfait .. .. 4 Chavarri . 10 Ledesma .. 6 Verdat . 12 Soharff .. .. 4 Vernet and Wilken 10 Monroe . . 2 Scares and Pax . 15 Cookson .. 2 Brant 8 Congi-eve . . 2 Talbot 7 Aldao 6 Winthrop 5 L. Fernandez.. 6 Bollaert 4 TraU .. .. 2 Thomas 4 DeYoto . . 4 Colman 2 Simpson ,. 4 Arzae 4 SANTA ri. 159 Corondd. — This district comprises : Newton . . Armstrong Freyre Bergara . . ToiTes Sq. Leagues. . 20 Madariaga CuUen .. Irigoyen .. OroEo Fraga Sq. Leagues. 6 4 4 3 6 Santa Fe. — The department of tlie capital is cMefly remark- able for the agricultural colonies of Franco-Swiss and German settlers. There are also 40 estancias, the largest being — Aldao . . Sq. Leagues. .. 20 McDonald 8q. Lea 2 Saavedra . . 18 Brant .. .. 2 Znbelzu . . .. 18 Peterson .. 2 Navarro . . Saa-Pereyra . . Eodriguez Cabal .. .. Beck Herzog .. Marin Salas .. .. 10 .. 10 .. 12 .. 10 8 8 Lubary . . Lopez Benitez . . Nougnier . . Coqueteaux . . Oasado . . 2 7 4 4 4 7 Palacios .. 8 Orono 3 Foster .. .. 3 This takes us up to the limits of the Gran Chaco. Santa Fe took the following prizes at the Cordoba Exhibition 1872: W. Wheelwright, furniture, &o. : two gold medals. W. Perbina, Eosario : grand gold medal. Provincial Conmiittee, skias, honey, &c. -. one gold, and one bronze medal. L. Gazzo, macaroni : gold medal. Devoto and Scala, cabinetwork : silver medal. G. Oaccia, seal-engraving : silver medal. J. Caballero, maps : silver medal. San Carlos Colony, flour : two silver medals. J. Berney, tanned hides : bronze medal. J. Jardel, tiles : bronze medal. Mme. Videla, lacework ; bronze medal. H. Boss, machinery : two bronze medals. The medal to Mr. Perkins was for his labours in promoting agricultural colonies. 160 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. In 1873 a railway was conceded to Mr. Henry Zimmermann, 46 miles, to connect the Swiss colonies with the port of Santa r^, but the death of the concessionnaire stopped the works, which had been begun by Messrs. Waring Brothers of London. Another concession, for a railway from Eosario to the said colonies and then across the Gran Chaco to Santiago del Estero, has also been granted, but not yet commenced. The province 'of Santa Fe raised a loan for 300,OOOZ. in London, early in 1874, to establish a Provincial Bank. The province is well watered, by the rivers Salado and Carcarana and a number of Arroyos. The Eio Salado rises in the snow-clad range of Acay in the Cordilleras, flows throngli the province of Salta, under the name of Juramento or Pasaje, and after receiving numerous affluents from the Sierra Lumbreras passes the ruined town of Esteco and the sites of the old Jesuit missions of Miraflores, Ortega, Balbuena, Pitos, and MacapiUa, where some estancieros have now established themselves ; after traversing salt plains near Miraflores the water becomes so brackish that the river takes its name of Salado. In many places the river bed at some seasons remains almost dry, the current being lost in swamps, and in the 29th degree of latitude at the Boquerones there are channels supposed to communicate with El Eey, but this part of the Chaco is unexplored, being held by untamed Indians. At certain seasons also the overflowing of Lake Viboras and the Arroyo Palmares forms a connection between the Salado and Eey, the latter of which falls into the ParanS in front of Goya. The mouth of the Salado is close to Santa Pe city, and the bluff on which the latter stands is being gradually eaten away by the current. Attempts have been made to render the Salado navigable, in which the late Estevan Earns Eupert vainly spent enormous sums of money : large concessions of land have been offered by Government, with the hope of opening up the trade of Eioja, Catamarca, Salta, Tucuman, and Santiago, but the difficulties seem insiiperable. In 1862 an SANTA F]S. 161 expedition was made along the Salado by land, in whicli Mr. Consul Hutchinson, Mr. Coghlan, and others took part, the whole company suffering much from want of water. It is remarkable that most of the lagoons and arroyos which have their origin in the Chaco are salty or brackish, the banks being covered with a white salt of bitter flavour. The principal lagoons are Viboras, Crista], and Setubal, the last named pressing close on S" Fe city. The Arroyos Malabrigo, Colastine, San Javier, and Eey fall into the Parana. The CarcaraSd or Tercero rises in tlie mountains of Cordoba, passes the town of Villa Nueva, and after traversing the camps of Santa Fe falls into the Parana above Eosario. It is highest in summer from the melting of snows in the sierras, and is at all times navigable as high as Saladillo (province of Cordoba), where it receives a tributary of that name which gives a brackish taste to its waters. Flat-bottomed boats of 2 feet draught can ascend to Frayle Mu«rto and even Villa Nueva ; but the navigation of this river would be much improved by canalizing a bad pass some 40 miles from the mouth. The Arroyo Tortugas, boundary between this province and Cordoba, falls into the Carcarafia near Cruz Alta. Among the minor streams are the Cululu, which falls into the Salado not far from Esperanza colony ; the San Lorenzo, with a village of the same name at its confluence with the Parana; the Saladillo, which turns two flour-mills about a league south of Eosario and then disembogues in the Parand ; the Pavon and Medio, which fall into the same river, the first remarkable for the battle-field of September, 1861, the second forming the boundary with Buenos Ayres. Santa Fe has no mountains, but on the borders of Santiago del Estero there is a range of hills called Los Altos, separating the waters of Lake Porongos from the Salado. The river-bank of the Parana is about 70 feet high all the way from Eosario down to the Arroyo Medio. There are splendid forests in the Chaco, suitable for ship-building or cabinet work, and in the 162 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. branctes of the trees is a kind of spider which produces excellent silk ; wild honey is also found in large quantities among the thickets of the Parana : the islands are chiefly useful for firewood, in which a great traffic is carried on, besides charcoal, most of the wood-cutters and charcoal-burners being Italians. These' islands are Sometimes the refuge of deserters from the army or fugitives from justice ; and at intervals tigers are seen that have come down from Corrientes or the Chaco on the floating islands, called Camelotes, which the stream forms of trees, rushes, &c. •> Before the Spanish oonqxiest the inhabitants consisted of three Guarani tribes of Indians, viz. Timbii, Quiloaza, and Ghana. In the time of the Jesuits there were some flourishing Missions, which fell away on the banishment of the Tathers (1765) so rapidly that in 1797 the five Missions of Inispin, Cayasta, San Pedro, San Javier, and San Geronimo counted only 3130 reduced Indians ; near the ruins of San Javier, which was the largest, are now settled a dozen Californian families, who have raised some thriving farms, in spite of annoyance from Indians and other drawbacks. At the close of the last century the province may be said to have consisted of three districts, the population of which was put down by Azara as follows: Santa Fe 4000; Eosario 3500 ; Coronda 2000 ; total 9500. In 1825 it had risen to 15,000, but the long and wasteful civil wars of thirty years prevented much increase : in 1857 General Urquiza made a census of the Eepublio, and found this province to contain 41,261 inhabitants, of whom 4304 were foreigners. Judging the population by the parochial registers it would appear that between the years 1839-49 there was a decline of 14 per cent., but during the last twenty years there has been a steady increase of 10 or 12 per cent, annually. There are 81 schools attended by 4208 children, and according to Post Office returns this province represents 14 per cent, of the intellect and commerce of the Eepublic, or as much as 10 per cent, of the other provinces. SANTA FE. 163 The census of 1869 gives tlie following returns: — Department of Santa Fe 21,392 „ San Geronimo 11,44:8 „ San Jose' 6,785 Eosario 49,492 Total 89,117 This number includes 13,939 foreigners, of whom one-third are Italians, one-third Swiss or Germans : among the remainder are 766 English. The first department includes the capital of the province, most of the Swiss colonies, and that part of the Chaco territory watered by the Salado and its tributaries. The quaint old city of Santa Fe, 32 leagues above Eosario, is situated at the confluence of the Salado and Parana : although now in ruins, it is venerable from its old associations, — eccle- siastical and historical. The original city of Santa Fe de la Vera Cruz was founded in 1573 by Don Juan de Garay. The old Jesuit chapel in the Plaza here was erected in a.d. 1654. Connected with it is one of the best arranged and most numerously attended of the Jesuit colleges in the Argentine Confederation. In the Plaza we find likewise the Matriz church. The other chapels here are those of San Francisco and Santo Domingo. On the side of the Plaza, opposite the Matriz, is the Cabildo or government house. A Convention of all the provinces was held here in 1852, and again in 1859. The census gives this city a population of 10,670, including 1192 foreigners, of whom 18 are English, the Italians, French, and Spaniards predominating. The port of Santa Fe, which is the outlet of the colonies, shows that the value of exported produce in 1871 was ^830,821, the tonnage representing an aggregate of 39,698 tons; and the Customs receipts ^91,788, or 50 per cent, over the year 1870. The revenue of the province is put down at ^325,000, or M 2 164 HANDBOOK OF THE KIVEE PLATE. nearly three times what it was in 1863 (gll6,000). One-half is derived from property-tax and patentees or licences, the rest from stamps, matadero tax, &c. The total valuation of the province is as follows : — Twenty million acres at $li .. .. 25 millions. Town property 12 J „ Cattle 4 Various 4 J „ 46 San Geronimo. — The department of San Geronimo may be reached from Santa Fe, coming southwards by a road crossing the Salado over a wooden bridge erected by Messrs. Porster and Co. in 1856. At 8 leagues from the capital we meet the village of Coronda, which, in olden times, produced cotton of a superior quality. This village has 1245 inhabitants, including 200 foreigners, mostly Italians, only two English. About 10 leagues farther south, at the mouth of the Colastine river, are the ruins of Fort Sanoti-Spiritus, just where the Carcaraiid empties its waters into the Parana. San Jose. — Northward from Santa Fe lies the department of San Jose, along the swampy margin of the Parana, as high as El Eey, 70 leagues N. of the capital, and extending inland to the Saladillo Amargo, in the heart of the Gran Chaco. This department includes the colonies of Calchines, Cayasta, Helvetia, California, Alexandra, and many others ; besides the settlement of Mbocovy Indians at San Javier, which was founded by Colonel Beron in 1856, and now numbers a thousand red-skin inhabitants, dealers in skins, wax, and honey with the opposite townfolk of La Paz, in Entre Eios, for whom also they cnt timber in the Chaco. Bosario. — The department of Eosario, surpassing all the rest of the province in population and importance, occupies the southern part, from the Carcaraiia to the frontier of Bnencs SANTA PE. 165 Ayres, and comprises the city of Eosario and towns of San Lorenzo and Las Piedras. San Lorenzo, on the bank of the Parana, about 7 leagues above Eosario, is a village of 1367 inhabitants, including 190 foreigners, mostly Italians, and not a single Englishman : it is chiefly remarkable for its ancient convent and a brisk trade in water-melons, of which it exports one and a half million yearly. The traveller should not fail to visit the old convent of San Carlos, built by the king of Spain in 1791 ; it is so large that General Mansilla on one occasion quartered 4000 men within its walls. Close by is a monument erected by General San Martin to his servant Cabral, who saved the General's life at the cost of his own. There are at present some 20 Franciscan friars, mostly Italians. Los Piedras, otherwise called Villa Constitucion, which has often been proposed for the seat of the Federal Government, is a village on the Parana bank, near the boundary line of Buenos Ayres ; it has a population of 610 souls, including 37 foreigners, mostly Italians and Spaniards, but not a single Englishman. A few leagues off is the battle-field of Pavon, where General Mitre, the Governor of Buenos Ayres, beat the army of the Argentine Confederation under General Urquiza (Sept. 17th, 1861) and reconstituted the Eepublic, overthrowing President Derqui. He removed the Argentine seat of Government from Parana to Buenos Ayres, and was elected unanimously by all the provinces as first President of the remodelled Eepublic. Eosario, the great outlet of the trade of the interior, is a city of 22,437 inhabitants, coming next after Buenos Ayres and Cordoba in population. It is said to derive its origin from some Calchaqui Indians brought hither in 1725 by Don Francisco Godoy, but it continued an obscure village (not mentioned by Sir W. Parish in 1852) till General Urquiza made it the port of the upper provinces in 1854, since when its growth has been rapid. Steamers from Liverpool and other transatlantic ports maintain an active commerce; vessels drawing 18 feet can 166 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVBE PLATE. come up to tte river-bank and discharge their cargo. The town stands 65 feet above the beach, and is built as usual in chess-board fashion ; the gas, paving, &c., giving an European aspect. There are several banks and newspapers ; ataong the former the London and Eiver Plate, Maua and Co., and the Argentine. The Protestant community have chapel, school, and cemetery for themselves. The mills and saladeros employ both steam and water power. The Hotels de La Paz and UniverBal are first-class establishments. The church and other public ' buildings are not remarkable. Consuls reside here for all the European powers. The railway to Buenos Ayres when finished will reduce the distance to ten hours, or half the present time by steamer. The proposal to move the capital hither from Buenos Ayres passed Congress last year, but was vetoed by the President. The growth of Eosario is on a 'par with the increase of the province in other respects ; the Customs returns show that the amount of duties recovered in the province has doubled in four, and trebled in seven years, viz. : — $ 1863 539,852 1867 1,244,450 1870 1,502,529 The port of Eosario stands for ^1,408,575 or 93 per cent, of the trade of the province ; the commerce in transit, at Eosario, with the upper provinces, is estimated at ^3,170,438. The total trade of the port represents — I Imports, 1870 9,814,682 Exports, „ 5,680,841 This shows an increase of 15 per cent, over the trade of 1869. The tonnage of Eosario, between arrivals and sailings, thus— Vessels. Tons. 1868 1,817 .. .. 155,525 1869 2,205 .. .. 233,627 1870 2,651 .. .. 335,928 1871 2,889 .. .. 386,817 SANTA PE. 167 The countries with which the trade is carried on, in propor- tion of tonnage, are as follows : — Coasting trafBo 62 England 8 Paraguay .. .. H Banda Oriental 6 United States 3 France 3 Italy, Germany, and Brazil i 100 Eosario possesses numerous schools besides those directed by the Sisters of Charity and those attached to the English and American chapels. It has also German, Italian, Swiss, French, and Spanish beneficent societies. There is daily communication by steamer with the river-ports of the Eepublic, and by railway with Cordoba and Eio Cuarto. The Central Argentine Eailway is the greatest work ever completed in the Eepublic, and a lasting monument of its con- structor, the late Mr. William Wheelwright : this distinguished American (friend and townsman of Mr. Peabody) was the first to introduce railways and steam-navigation on the West Coast. In 1853 he obtained a concession from General Urquiza, Presi- dent of the Eepublic, for the proposed line, but civil wars intervening, it lay in abeyance till 1862, when Congress gave a new concession, viz. 7 per cent, guarantee for forty years on 6400Z. per mile as cost of construction ; a free grant of a league of land on either side of the line for its entire length (say 1,600,000 acres) ; the line to be finished in six and a half years. Messrs. Brassey, Wythes, and Wheelwright took up or disposed of most of the shares in London, the capital being l,6OO,O0OZ. in 201. shares. The Argentine Government took 3500 shares, General Urquiza 1000, and the leading foreign residents of Buenos Ayres about 5000 more. The first sod was turned, at Eosario in April, 1863, and in spite of the Paraguayan war and numberless difficulties the line was opened to public traffic aU 168 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE, the way to Corcloba in May, 1870 ; it gives over 5 per cent, per annum on the capital, after deducting working expenses. The length is 247 miles, trains leaving Eosario at 6 a.m. and reach- ing Cordoba at 9 p.m., which places the latter city within thirty- six hours of Buenos Ayres. The first-class carriages are fitted up with every comfort requisite on so long a journey, and excellent restaurants are established at Bell-Ville and Villa Maria, where the train halts half-an-hour for refreshments. The country traversed by the Central Argentine is for the most part uninteresting, a level plain of grass, until the algarrobo woods of Cordoba begin, near Frayle Muerto. The line after leaving Eosario passes a number of country-houses, one of the prettiest being that of Captain Thompson. Approaching Eoldan, the Swiss colonies of the " Central Argentine " begin ; they are managed by Mr. Perkins and count about 3000 settlers, who have great tracts of lands under tillage. The next place worth notice is Canada Gomez, where Mr. Krell's model-farm shows a vast expenditure of money and labour. Some 10 leagues north of the station is the estancia of Captain Kemmis, at Las Eosas, famous for prize cattle. Tortugas is the boundary between Santa Fe and Cordoba ; these camps, before the railway, were Indian himting-grounds, and we see little or no cattle or habi- tations till we reach Frayle Muerto, now called Bell-Ville in honour of the first Englishman who settled here some ten years ago ; there are now about 100 English settlers. ViUa Maria, in the midst of vast woods and swamps, is the junction with the Eio Cuarto line (82 miles in length) for travellers going towards Mendoza. If we keep on the main line for Cordoba we cross the Eio Segundo by a magnificent iron bridge 1300 feet long, in thirty-two spans ; this river is generally shallow, and now we begin to have a fine view of the sierras of Cordoba. The city is in a valley and only seen a few minutes before reaching it, but the panorama is exceedingly picturesque. ( 169 ) CHAPTEE IX. COEDOBA. CoEDOBA, the teart of the Eepublic, and one of tlie most impor- tant of the Argentine provinces by reason of its extent, popula- tion, and undeveloped resources, is making great progress of late years. The Central Argentine Kailway brought it into connection with the seaboard in 1870, and the National Exhibi- tion in the following year caused a renewed activity. Never- theless the Post Office returns show the province of Santa F6, with less than half the population of Cordoba, stands for three times as much intellectual activity. This province is bounded on the north by Santiago and Catamarca, on the east by Santa Fe, on the south by the pampas of Buenos Ayres, and on the west by San Luis and Eioja. The western portion is traversed by a sierra which runs over 200 miles from north to south, with an average width of 20 to 25 miles. These mountains are of granitic formation, and con- tain veins of gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, marble, chalk, &c. The rest of the province is level and may be described as one- half wood, one-half pampa : the subsoil is argillaceous, the vegetable loam varying from 10 to 20 inches in depth. The climate is temperate, in general excessively dry, partly owing to the distance inland and relative height over the sea, partly to want of rivers or lakes. Drought freq^uently occurs, but the rainy season usually begins in September, and again in March. The driest time is about mid-winter (June), when fogs are common. Humboldt accounts for this by supposing that the sea vapours dissolve into rain near the coast in winter, and come inland to the mountain heights in summer. There are four principal rivers —Primero, Segundo, Teroero 170 HANDBOOK OF THE JIIYEE PLATE. and Cuarto, with numberless arroyos, which are so many torrents in the rainy season, and if the water were collected by means of canals it would serve to irrigate and utilize vast tracts now of no value. The irrigation system at the old Jesuit mission of Santa Catalina in the sierras may serve as a model for the rest of the province. The fauna of Cordoba comprise all the useful animals of Europe imported by the Spaniards, which multiplied exceed- ingly, but degenerated in kind, being suffered to run wild in the pampas, for the climate is so benignant that they need neither housing nor attention. Cordoba counts several million goats and sheep: the former will prove highly valuable when crossed with Angoras ; as re- gards sheep they are much neglected. Swine would suit admi- rably if attended to, as they could be fed in peach plantations, which would give their flesh a fine flavour. Horses are so numerous that droves of mares are exported annually to Peru : the breed, especially in the sierras, is small. Sportsmen would find abundance of game ; tigers, wild boars, wild cats, foxes, hares, rabbits, weasels, polecats, wild goats, guanacos, ostriches, deer, lions, ant-eaters, hurones, ampalaguas, aguaraces, cor- zuelos, &c. Agriculture is destined to be the great wealth of Cordoba, but hitherto it has been disregarded, notwithstanding the favourable soil and climate ; a little maize and wheat are raised, but most of the flour used is brought from San Juan and Mendoza. The yield of maize is prodigious, often three hundredfold, but as the grain is so cheap and bulky as not to be worth exporting it would suit to fatten pigs as they do in North America. Tobacco, lin- seed, flax, sweet potato, and " mani " thrive amazingly. From linseed and " mani " may be extracted superior oil, the second being equal to best olive. Sweet potato can be used for pro- ducing sugar, and the husks fatten swine. Fruits of every kind thrive in various places : the peach only misses about once in eight years ; the apple, pear, fig, cherry, CORDOBA. 171 plum, damson, quince, walnut, yield abundantly, as well as grapes of different classes, and a fruit called "nopal," from which molasses and brandy are made. Figs dried and badly put up are exported to the seaboard. The forest wealth of Cordoba is considerable, comprising such valuable woods as algarrobo, quebracho, moye piquillin, albar- ricoque, chanar, mistol, tintita coguyacan, and coco. The moye and algarrobo barks are good for tanning. Among the establishments most calculated to attract the tra- veller's notice is the great Angora goat-farm of Messrs. Barker and Co., at Las PeSas, 7 leagues from Totoral station, on the Eio Cuarto Eailway, and 20 north of the town of Eio Cuarto, within a day's journey of the port of Eosario. Mr. Barker arrived &ona Cape of Good Hope in 1864, with 360*goats of the Angora breed, of which 20 died on the road to Las Penas. None of the original goats now remain, but there are 800 descendants as pure as the first, besides 2000 of various crosses. The hair is twice as valuable as wool, realizing 21 pence per lb., at Brad- ford, each fleece averaging 2' lbs. Native goats are bought at a Bolivian dollar each, three shillings ; herds are paid six dollars a month. The estancia covers 230,000 acres in a valley 30 miles wide, and comprises ten puestos or stations, besides the estancia house. There are 10,000 acres walled in, and 120 under crops. The Penas and Leones streams afford permanent water, besides some lagoons that are full only in the rainy season, which is summer. The climate is healthy, generally tempered with breezes, but sometimes up to 100° Fahr. in the shade. Wood and horned cattle abound, and the proprietors offer land and goats on halves to settlers. Messrs. Barker and Kaulen obtained a gold medal and 40?. at the Cordoba Exhibition. Not far from Las Penas is the estancia of Bamett and Winterbotham, where there is capital shooting of big game. The eastern part of the province is at first a sandy plain, with a few salt lakes ; then come pampas, interspersed with clumps of algarrobos; next a zone of hilly ground, thickly 172 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEB PLATE. wooded, after whicli we reach the first sierra, culminating in a sharp ridge, with steep descent on its western side. The sierras run almost due north, under the general name Sierra de Cordoba, but may be said to form five distinct chains conseen- tively, viz. those of Lutis, San Xavier, Achalas, Punilla, and IschiHn. They vary in character, some being barren and pre- cipitous, others ascending in verdant slopes to the summit ; as a rule the lower part of the range is thickly wooded, the upper covered with good pasture. The beautiful valley of Punilla, sometimes called Cosquin, is of great length and about 20 miles wide, watered by the San Francisco and other tributaries of the Eios Primero and Segundo. Beyond this the Grand Sierra separates us from the Pocho valley, and on the western side of this is the last mountain chain on the side of Eioja. These mountains present a most interesting field for the geologist : they were much explored by the late Dr. Gordon during a residence of forty years, but his researches and manu- scripts have not been given to the world. The samples of white and variegated marble are equal to Carrara, the minerals are abundant but little worked. In some places we see indications of a volcanic nature. The climate varies according to elevation or locality, from that of Sicily to one resembling northern lati- tudes. Persons with pulmonary afiections find the air of the sierras most salutary, and even European physicians have sent patients hither ; but it is difiicult to obtain good accommodation in the moimtains. The Eio Primero, which waters the city and suburbs of Cordoba, is not navigable, although rapid and dan- gerous in flood seasons, and after a course «f nearly 100 miles it loses itself in the desert, near the salt lakes of Mar-Chiquita. The Segundo runs parallel with the Primero, about 30 miles apart, is wide and shallow till lost near the salt lagoons above mentioned. The Tercero has a course of 300 miles, passing the towns of Villa Nueva and Frayle Muerto, receiving the waters of Eio Cuarto at Saladillo, entering the province of Santa Fe at Cruz Alta, and then taking the name of CarcaraSa, till it disem- OOEDOBA. 173 bogues in the Parang above San Lorenzo. The Tercero might be made navigable for small vessels. The Cuarto, after watering the town of Eio Cuarto, runs through the desert till apparently- lost in lagoons, then reappears as the Saladillo, and falls into the Tercero. The Quinto is more properly a river of San Luis, although finally lost in the Indian coimtry, south of Cordoba. The salt lakes of Porongos and Mar-Chiquita, in the north-east of the province, receive the Eio Dulce and minor streams, but have no outlet. The province comprises 21 departments, viz. : — Sq. Miles, Cordota 300 Anejos 2,500 CalamucMta 1,800 San Alberto 1,680 SanXavier 1,260 Pocho 1,000 Minas 800 Punilla 1,400 Cruz del Bje . ... 2,100 KioPrimero 1,800 EioSegundo 1,400 SanJusto 3,000 Eio Tercero (Upper) .. 1,920 Villa Nueva 1,800 FrayleMuerto .. .. 6,960 Eio Cuarto 24,000 Eio Seco Sobremonte Totoral .. Tulumba .. Isehilin . . 3,080 2,400 3,840 2,400 4,200 69,640 Inhabitants. 34,458 12,596 9,193 10,082 13,041 6,168 8,109 6,823 12,252 14,884 11,289 5,156 5,226 6,573 5,041 10,995 4,989 6,110 6,981 7,085 13,457 210,508 The census of 1869 shows only 1 per cent, foreigners ; including 396 Italians, 262 French, 174 English, 84 Germans, 19 Americans, and 802 others. The population is about three to the square mile, there being a preponderance of women, viz. 478 males to 522 females. One-fifth of the inhabitants can 174 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEE PLATE. read, and 10,030 children attend 76 schools. The Post Office returns give Cordoba- the fourth place, or 5 per cent, of the intellectual activity of the Eepublic. CITY OF COKDOBA. This quaint old cathedral city was founded in 1573, by a Spanish expedition from Peru, under Luis Geronimo de Cabrera, and is thus seven years older than Buenos Ayres. For nearly, a century it suifered periodical inundations from the Eio Primero, until in 1671 a "rampla'' was built for its protection. The city preserves a medieval appearance, although much change is observable since the opening of the railway in 1870. It is the only place in the Eepublic with venerable associations, having been for two centuries the seat of learning and head- quarters of the Jesuits. It pertained to the viceroyalty of Peru until 1776, when it was transferred to the dominion of Buenos Ayres. Dean Funes writes flatteringly of the schools of Latin and Philosophy in the University of San Carlos, founded here by Bishop Trejo in 1613, and subsequently approved by Pope Gregory and Philip III. The adjacent college of Monserrat, founded in 1686, was another Jesuit institution, and after the expulsion of the Fathers, in 1764, by Governor Campero, the splendour of these establishments passed away. At the time of the expulsion the Jesuits are said to have numbered 135 Fathers, and possessed 370 slaves, besides valuable farms at Alta Gracia and other parts in the sierras. Most of the men of note, from the tyrant Francia down to the senators of the present day, have studied in Cordoba, even in its period of eclipse, but President Sarmiento has infused new life into the University by bringing out some eminent German professors to teach applied sciences and modern languages. Monserrat is now the National College, a branch of the University. From the azotea is obtained a fine view of the sierras. The cathedral is a Moorish structure in the Plaza, on the same side as the Cabildo, which is also of antique style. The new church of COEDOBA. 175 Santo Domingo is in the boulevard of Calle Ancha, attached to an old Dominican convent, where there are a dozen friars, including Father Burke, the only English priest in this part of the Eepublic. There are ten other churches or chapels, mostly- attached to convents or charitable institutions. The Carmelite orphanage, founded by Bishop San Alberto in 1780, is attended by Carmelite nuns and kept in good order, the children making beautiful work in embroidery. The orange trees in some of these convents are of wonderful size and production. The traveller should not omit to visit the library attached to the University, where some books in Quichua, Guarani, and other Indian lan- guages, printed by the Jesuits, are still preserved, although a large portion of the works has been stolen from time to time, and the late Dr. Gordon rescued some valuable ones from the chandlers andgrocers of the city. The old people relate that there are numerous subterranean passages which cannot be explored, owing to the mephitic vapours. The architecture of the old buildings is exceedingly massive, especially the Jesuit college and church ; the latter was closed for a century, but the ceiling of carved wood is beau- tiful as ever. The glory of Cordoba is its Alameda, called after the Viceroy Sobremonte, who laid it out. An artificial lake of 4 acres, which is used as a city reservoir, is surrounded by trees, under whose shade the Cordobeses loiter on summer evenings or by moonlight, when this place has peculiar charms. The water-supply is drawn from here by means of " acequias " or smaU canals, which flow through the middle of each street. The cholera of 1868 was dreadful in its ravages, as was believed, owing to the fact that the Municipality had made a new cemetery above the town, just where the water is drawn from the Eio Primero : this is now partly remedied. The city is subject to most intense heat in summer, when most of the families retire to the sierras. Physicians complain that heart- disease is very prevalent, which they ascribe in some manner to the numerous revolutions, and also to the want of vegetable diet 176 HANDBOOK OF THB EIVBK PLATE. and the inactive habits of the people. A foreigner who resided here many years thus describes the Cordobeses : " The character of the people is different from that of any other part of the Eepublic. They are more primitive in their customs, more difficult of access, but their acquaintance once formed they are generous and obliging. The better class of families are as intelligent, liberal people as anyone would wish to be ac- quainted with ; but the lower class, which is far too much in the majority, is very ignorant and superstitious." The National Observatory, under the direction of the dis- tinguished Professor Gould, from Massachusetts, is on the heights overlooking the park, where the Exhibition of 1871 was held ; the Observatory was established three years ago, and Mr. Gould is at present making a map of the Argentine heavens, for which the clear atmosphere of this city offers special facilities ; he reports 7200 stars visible to the naked eye, against 6000 in the northern hemisphere. The TJranometria Argentina will soon be completed : it wUl comprise 1700 maps, of 50 stars each, say 85,000 stars, one-third being hitherto unknown to the astronomical world. The census of 1869 gave the city a population of 28,523, which entitles it to rank next after Buenos Ayres : there were 4 women to 3 men, and education seemed pretty general, 13,456 persons being able to read, and 3344 children attending school. There were 626 foreigners, including 159 French, 124 Italians, and 28 English. There is daily communication with Eosario by rail- way, and the first section of the line to Tucuman was opened to Jesus-Maria (30 miles) in March, 1874. Travellers going to Mendoza can proceed to Villa Maria by train, and there take the branch line to Eio Cuarto, which is being prolonged towards San Luis. A number of pleasant excursions can be made on horse- back or in carriage from Cordoba. Saldan, at the foot of the sierras, is charmingly situated on an affluent of the Primero ; it is the residence of Senor AUende, and has a walnut tree imder whose shade some hundreds of people could sit down. The COKDOBA. 177 sportsman will find pumas in these tills. Crossing the Cosquin ■ range, in the San Francisco valley, we find Mr. Gordon's estancia. Higher up in the sierras are Tauticuche and Sinsacate, resorted to by people with weak lungs. The Jesuit ruins of Santa Catalina, Alta Gracia, and Jesus-Maria are also worth visiting, and show what advanced industry the Fathers kept up in these remote regions. Calera is a pretty bathing village, about 12 miles from the city, and a railway is projected : an English hotel was built here in 1871. The Tablada, close to the city, is a table-land on which two battles have been fought. The view from here is unrivalled: on one side, the church-spires and turrets of the city ; on the other, the grandly diversified range of the sierras, often capped with snow. A little above the city is a village of primitive Indians, called El Pueblito,the inhabitants of which are now Christians. Cordoba is the residence of the Governor, Bishop, and Other chief authorities. There are 4 hotels, the best being Hotel La Paz in the Calle Ancha, and that of Paris in the plaza. The distance by rail from Eosario is 246 miles, Cordoba being almost equidistant from the Atlantic and Pacific, and 436 miles from Buenos Ayres. Travellers will find the manager of the London and Eiver Plate Bank ready and able to give them ad- vice on all matters. Mr. Bouquet, proprietor of the great flour and saw mills, is also very obliging. Anejos Forms properly two departments, near the capital. North Anejos comprises Calera, Ceballos, San Vicente, and Canas, the first-named district deriving its name from excellent lime quar- ries, in a picturesque locality, where there is also an English hotel for summer visitors in quest of bathing or shooting. South Anejos extends from the suburbs of Cordoba to Alta Gracia and Eio Segundo, along the slope of the sierra and taking in a part of the pampa. It comprises Carela, Molinos Alta Gracia, Potrero de Garay, Tagunilla, San Antonio. San Cosene, and San Isidro. In the lower districts traversed by Eio 178 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEK PLATE. Primero we find cattle-farms ; in the tipper parts are nnmerons woods and tilled grounds. The Jesuits had a fine establish- ment at Alta Gracia. The department extends as far north as the Arroyo Ascochingas, where D. Miguel Aguero's model-farm is supplied with the best agricultural implements. CalamucMta Is watered by the Segundo and Tercero, and takes in a part of the sierras with the table-land of Lutis. This department comprises the well-known copper mines of Tio, Minotauro, and Tacuru, as also the establiehments for refining' the metal. Wooded hills and fertUe valleys render it one of the most charming districts in Cordoba. iSia« Alberto Comprehends the hilly country on the western- slopes of the Sierra de Cordoba, as far as the boundary of San Luis, taking in the plain of San Pedro, the Nono table-land, and sundry popu- lous and well-cultivated valleys of charming scenery, especially those of Chaquinchuna, Ambul, and Panaolmo. This depart- ment, until recently, formed part of the adjoining one of Saa Xavier. The village of San Pedro, on the Arroyo de la Canada, is 1700 feet above sea-level, and 15 leagues S.W. of Cordoba ; the intervening sierra rises in some places to 7700 feet. San Xavier Is only separated from San Alberto by the Arroyo Canada, and takes its name from a hamlet on the western side of the sierra, 2700 feet over sea-level. The principal place of the ■ department is Dolores, a village opposite San Pedro. The in- habitants follow both pastoral and agricultural pursuits. Pocho Consists of a table-land between the sierras of Cordoba and Eioja, overlooking the desert which marks the frontier between COEDOBA. 179 these two provinces. Northwards extends the hill-range of Guassf-pampa, including the extinct volcanoes of Yerba Buena, Agua Tala, Cieriaga, and Salsacate, with a medium height of 3000 feet. In many places abound marble, copper, and lead; iron is also said to exist. Some of the inhabitants raise cattle, • others are occupied in the mines ; in the vicinity of the latter are always found small plantations. The climate in the hills is mUd and healthy. Pooho is a village with a chapel and school, 20 leagues due west of Cordoba. Until recently, formed part of the department of Pocho, and is only remarkable for its mining industry, at Argentine and San Carlos. Punilla Occupies the Dolores valley between the Cosquin and Pupilla ranges, north-west from Cordoba. Orchards and small farms abound where the mountain sides have been cleared ; including the districts of San Eoque, San Antonio, Alejos Wood, and Kosario. Mr. Gordon's estancia . is in this valley, which is famous for fruits and wild parrots. Cruz del EJe Comprises the valleys on the_ north-western side of the. Punilla range, which produce much wheat and a variety of fruits. Southward is Guayco, where mines of lead and silver exist. Candelaria, a ruined Jesuit establishment, is in the wildest part of the mountains, surroimded by rich marble quar- ries. The hamlets of Pichana and Higuera also belong to" this .department. The village of Cruz del Eje is 30 leagues N.W. of Cordoba, by a mountain-path only practicable for mules. In the centre of the village is a large wooden cross, which for- merly marked the spot where the Viceroy Liniers was murdered. N 2- 180 HANDBOOK OP THE KIVBR PLATE. Bio Primero Takes its name from the river which flows through the capitfd, and comprises fine pasture lands till reaching the large salt-lake of Porongos or Mar-Ohiquita, which covers nearly 3000 square miles, forming the boundary between Cordoha, Santiago and Santa Fe. The town of Santa Eosa or Eio Primero has 2869 inhabitants, and is 20 leagues N.E. of Cordoba. Bio Segwndo Includes all the country between the Segundo and Tercero rivers from the town of Bosario to the limits of Santa Pe. It is a populous department, the inhabitants dividing their atten- tion between cattle-farming and agriculture. The town of Eosario or Eio Segundo has 1181 inhabitants, there being 6 women to 5 men. It is 15 leagues E. of Cordoba, on the old coach-road for Santa Fe. The railway bridge over the Eio Segundo is 1300 feet long, built of iron, in 32 spans, resting on iron pillars 14 inches in diameter, the minimum height being 25 feet. San Jiisto, Better known as El Tio, lies along the Eio Segundo, south of Lake Porongos, comprising several cattle-farms and some little agriculture. The village of El Tio, otherwise called Fort Concepcion, is 30 leagues E. of Cordoba, and about haK that distance from Fort Sunchales on the Santa F6 frontier. Arroyito and San Francisco on the Eio Segundo belong to this department. Upper Tercero Takes in the slopes of the sierra in which the Tercero takes its rise, and comprises the villages of Salto, Pampayaste, and Capilla de Eodriguez, which are met with between Villa Nueva and the Sierra de Cordoba, OOBSOSA. 181 Villa Nukva, Sometimes called Tercero Abajo, is an extensive department, the inhabitants dividing their labours between cattle-farming and wood-cutting. The Central Argentine Company have an establishment for cutting and sawing lumber at Yucat. The Indians sometimes carry off much horned cattle, which checks the business, although the pastures are good. There are few sheep, and of inferior quality. The soil would do well for agriculture, but the inhabitants are too apathetic for such pursuits. The women are industrious, making soap, candles, and preserves. Water is found on digging a few feet, but generally brackish. Villa Maria, the haK-way station on the railway between Eosario and Cordoba, is a straggling village with three wooden hotels and numerous ranches, surrounded by dense woods and perennial swamps. It suffers from a lack of good water, and the cholera of 1868 carried off most of the inhabitants. The heat in summer is excessive, the woods allowing no ventilation. This plafie was fixed on by Congress in 1870 as the capital of the Argentine Eepublic, but President Sarmiento vetoed the bill. VUla Nueva, on the other side of Eio Tercero, is an impor- tant town of 3345 inhabitants, being the third in the province, and seat of a considerable trade. Its exports in hides, wool, timber, cattle, and preserved fruits are estimated at 60,000Z. sterling per annum, and its imports almost as much in European goods. There are 30 wholesale shops, besides several carpenters', blacksmiths', bakers', &c., and one inn; sometimes there is no doctor. The Indians used to make inroads so close as to be visible from the roof of the church but not since the commencement of the Eio Cuarto Eailway in 1870. The town has a poor appearance, as most of the houses are built of adobes or mud, with straw roofs; the river is generally low, but in flood tim.e often threatens the town. It is 182 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. about half-a-league hence to Villa Maria, an iron bridge having recaitly been put ovpr the Tercero. The railway for Eio Cuarto and Mercedes starts from Villa Maria, branching off the Central Argentine. The journey to Eio Cuarto takes about five hours. Frayle Muerte, Sometimes called Union, or San Geronimo, was formerly included in the department of Villa Nueva, and covers a vast extent of country, for the most part exposed to Indians. The soil is equally suitable for pasture or agriculture, and a number of English farmers have formed a settlement within a few leagues of the town of Frayle Muerto, which is officially called Bell-viUe in honour of the first settler, Mr. Bell. The town ib built on the Eio Tercero, and has a population of 2754 souls. It is one of the principal stations of the Central Argentine EaUway, being about five hours' journey from Eosario. The department includes also the dependencies of Ballesteroa, Saladnio, and Cruz Alta, three wretched hamlets on the Eio Tercero,. very much exposed to Indians, especially the last- named, which is on the Santa Pe border, at that place where the Tercero changes its name, and becomes the river CarcaraSd. Cruz Alta is about 15 leagues N. of Fort Melincue, the point where the provinces of Cordoba, Buenos Ayres, and Santa Pe meet. The whole of this department was, xmtil recently, no better than Indian territory ; the present population is less than one to the square mile. The English settlers number 109 men and 14 women. President Sarmiento paid a visit to the English colony in 1870, accompanied by several of the Corps Diplomatique. Bio Cuarto Occupies an immense area of the pampas, between the rivers Cuarto and Quinto. It forms nearly haK the province, this department being almost as large as Ireland. A project was OOEDOBA. 183 started by SeSor Echegaray, in 1863, to bring out 10,000 families to settle here, the .Government having granted him 650,000 acres. The comitry suffers much from Indians, who have more than once besieged the town of Eio Cuarto, aQd obliged the women to remain for some days shut up in the church ; but since the Quinto frontier is better guarded and the railway pushed forward, we hear less of their inroads. Rio Cuarto, otherwise Concepcion, is the second town in the province, and contains 5414 inhabitants, of whom there are 4 women to 3 men. The situation is picturesque, on the river of the same name, from which canals are drawn to irrigate the suburbs. A garrison is maintained here, as also at Achiras, the southern point of the sierra. The town of Eio Cuarto is 40 leagues S. of Cordoba, and by railway within a day's journey of the port of Bosario. Bio Seco, The most northern department of Cordoba, touches the frontiers of Catamarca and Santiago, and derives its name ■ from the aridity of its soil, except in the vicinity of Lake Porongos, were there are fine pastures. The village of Eio Seco, otherwise Santa Maria, has 452 inhabitants, there being 3 women to 2 men. Sdbre Mamie, Formerly part of Eio Seco, near the Santiago frontier, along the eastern base of the Sierra de Cordoba, mostly covered with fine pastures. The village of San Francisco del Chanar is 30 leagues N. of Cordoba on the high road to Santiago, standing 2400 feet over sea-level. The hamlet of Calniniaga, on the west side of the sierra, also belongs to this department. Totoral, On the eastern side of the sierra, includes some fine valleys and lowland, the district of Sinsacate being admirably cultivated. 184 HANDBOOK 01" THE EIVEK PLATE. The village of Totpral counts 779 inhabitants, witli 3 women to 2 men, and is nearly 20 leagues N. of Cordoba. A district called Macha, another Candelaria, are both in this department. Tvjlumha Embraces a large range of hill' country, composed of five dis- tricts, in which the inhabitants devote themselves to the care of cattle. The village of Tulumba has 1140 souls, and farther north, on the high road to Santiago, are those of San Pedro and Santa Cruz, the latter at an elevation of 3000 feet. Southward of Tulumba are the ruins of Santa Catalina and Jesus-Maria, where the Jesuits had fine establishments. The Tucuman rail- way passes through Jesus-Maria and Tulumba. There is a Government property called Estancia de Caroya, with a massive buUding, to which is attached an estate of 50 square leagues (or 334,000 acres), situate about 10 leagues from Cordoba, on the route of the railway to Tuctiman ; its value js about ^100,000. This would be an admirable place for the establishment of a School of Agriculture ; it has water-power to turn a mill, besides wood and pasture, and poor natives who might be employed as peons. IscMlin. Another extensive and mountainous department, between Cmz del Eje and Tulumba, suitable for cattle-farming, and thickly inhabited. The village of Ischilin is 5 leagues W. of Tulumba and 15 N. of Cordoba. The districts of Copacabana, Eio Pinto, and Quilino belong to this department. The number of persons over 100 years in Ischilin and Tulumba is remarkable, being respectively 7 and 4 out of 28 in the whole province. The hill range from IschiUn to Cruz del Eje and Soto is apparently rich in minerals. In 1871 an English company at Soto got a crushing-machine from Eansome and Simms, but the yield of gold was too small to pay expenses, viz., 38 oz. from 45 tons of quartz. COEDOBA. 185 The prizes taken by this province at the, National Exhibition of 1872 were 13 gold, 13 silver, and 12 bronze medals ;— Genaro Perez, oil painting : gold medal. Female Orphanage, embroidery : one gold and one bronze medal. Kosario Alba, needlework : gold medal. Ledesma Brothers, Angora goats and hair : two gold medals. P. Crespo, dyed fabrics : gold medal. Messrs. Stow, farming implements : gold medal. M. Argnello, butter, and Durham bull: one gold, one silver, and one bronze medal. F. Cordero„ native wines : gold medal. B. Broussaint, tanned goat skins : gold medal. Barker, Kaulen, and Co., Angora goats and hair : two gold and two silver. James Temple and Co., machinery : one gold and one bronze medal. Mdlle. Velez, embroidery : silver medal. M. Taspuir, starch : silver medal. M. Vasquez, cheese : silver medal. G. Allio, marble ornaments : silver medal. C. Bocco, landscapes : silver medal. Dr. Oster, medicinal herbs : silver medal. M. Echeniqne, fine arts : silver medal. Tulumba rugs, marble samples, &c. : three silver medals. Mme. Benites, embroidery : bronze medal. Mme. Martinez, silk ditto : bronze medal. Mme. Benavides, needlework : bronze medal. M. Pefla, poultry : bronze medal. M. Castellano, native wine : bronze medal. M. Jaudin, engraving : bronze medal. E. Bedat, terra-cotta flguies : bronze medal. N. Podesta, liqueurs : bronze medal. H. Poerzler, cabinet-work : bronze medal. showing that Cordoba came next after Buenos Ayres in indus- trial development. 186 HANDBOOK or THE EIVEK PLATE. CHAPTEE X. This province ranks twelfth in point of population, and is in a very backward condition. Its area is put down at 40,000 square miles, which, includes a large portion of pampa territory occu- pied by Eanqueles, Pehuenches, and other Indian tribes. It is a wild, mountailious, and, in some parts, a wooded . country, between the 32nd and 35th parallels of south latitude, and enjoys a delightfjil climate. It is bounded on the north by the Salinas desert, which forms the boundary with Bioja and Cor- doba ; on the west, by the Desaguadero river, on the side of Mendoza and the Quijadas lakes towards San Juan ; on the south, by the Eio Quinto and the Pampas ; on the east, by the Sierra Estanzuela branch of the Oordobese Sierras. San Luis formed a part of the old Spanish province of Cuyo, but separated from Mendoza in 1820, at the same time as San Juan : all this country had belonged to the jurisdiction of Chile imtil 1776, when Cuyo was passed over to the Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres. Ever since the Independence this province has suffered from civil wars and Indian forays, but for which its cattle-farms would have proved highly profitable. The only river of any importance is the Quinto, which takes its rise in the Sierra Pancanta, 6500 feet ; but the want of streams is com- pensated by frequent rains. Lake Bebedero, which receives the Desaguadero, is famous alike for its fish and for the salt which is used throughout the province. The Sierra de San Luis is like a branch of the Cordoba system, the highest points, such as San Francisco, Pancanta, Monigote, and Tomalasta varying fifom SAN LUIS. 187 5000 to 7400 feet. Pasture and timber abound in the valleys and table-lands. 'Gold is found at Carolina and other places ; also copper, lead, and antimony. The heat in summer is exces- sive, but the rest of the year is agreeable. AH European fruits thrive, especially grapes. The poverty of the inhabitants appears from the return of only 120 houses (other than mud ranches) in the city and province. As a general rule the natives are well formed, robust, healthy, intelligent, and of a brave and generous disposition. The women are pretty, amiable, and virtuous, and of a careful, thrifty, and laborious disposition; they generally make excellent wives and mothers. In the towns they soon become corrupted and vitiated, but in the camps they are usually innocent and unassuming. The men are steady and intelligent, and many migrate in search of better employment. In the country they are simple and uncouth, but in the towns they are distinguished for their civility, and usually get on well in business. Volcanic agencies are visible in Tomalasta and other peaks, and an earthquake shock was felt in San Luis, in 1849, so severely that some old houses fell down. The province is so poor that the revenues hardly exceed ^40,000, and would be wholly inadequate but for the subsidy from the National Government. At the same time the public lands will prove of much value when European immigration gets so far inland. Sportsmen will find pumas and guanacos on the mountain slopes. The founder of this province was nephew of the famous founder of the Jesuit order, and, having been sent out as Vice- roy of Chile, married the native princess Clara Beatriz Coya, daughter of the Inca Sayri-Tupac, and last descendant of that royal race. San Luis gave some of the best isavaby regiments . in the War of Independence : in 1819 the Spanish officers taken prisoners at Maypu were massacred by the populace. 188 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVBB PLATE. The province comprises 8 departments, viz. : — Population. Sq. Miles. San Luis 7,049 Saladillo 5,038 Morro 4,000 Eenoa 6,418 Santa Barbara . . . . 7,891 Piedra Blanca- .. .. 8,126 San Francisco . . . . 9,332 Nogoli 5,440 6,400 6,300 5,900 3,000 3,100 5,300 5,000 5,000 53,294 40,000 The proportion of sexes is as 7 women to 6 men, probably owing to the wars, for which reason also we find only 128 Europeans in the whole province, but there are 380 Chilians. The number of persons that can read is returned at 7142 ; there are 3815 children attending 84 schools. The tables show that of 25,908 children there are 8780, or more than one-third, ille- gitimate. There are 627 adults unfit for labour by reason of wounds received in the wars, and 3703 orphanSi The province of San Luis is now connected with Eosario by the railway via Eio Cuarto and VUla Maria, which is being actively pushed forward by Messrs. Eogers and Thomas to Mercedes, on the Eio Quinto. This wiU give a great impulse to the country by inducing Europeans to settle here. For sheep- farmers and agriculturists the points which offer the most striking advantages are the Eio del Eosario, in the partido Canada del Moro, which stretches for an immense distance across an almost unpopulated country. The Eio Quinto is by far the most picturesque stream in the province, its banks are of a rich and fertile soil. The Sierra de Varela has also its advantages, and here, on the bank of the river, might be established a. small farming colony ; at Plumerite also, a little to the south-east of Varela, a flourishing little agricultural town may be formed; the same may be said of the camps of PantaniUo or Punilla, as also those to the south-east of Morro, which are watered by SAN LUIS. 189 large streams, ttus providing an easy conduct for all the pro- duce of the surrounding country. A little capital judiciously employed here would produce great returns ; besides this, steady active men will always find lucrative employment, such as black- smiths, carpenters, turners, tailors, shoemakers, &c. The best meat only costs 4 rls. Bol. the arrobe, a chicken 2 rls., and so on. Although now so thinly populated, San Luis, from its central position, must at no very distant day become a place of considerable importance;^ The hill country is very suitable for invalids ; a gentleman writes as follows : — " I am living at present in the Carolina, in the Sierra de San Luis, in quest of a favourable climate for my complaint — lung disease — and I find this climate more suitable to my case than any I have tried yet. "The Sierra forms a mountain region complete in itself, independent of the neighbouring sierras, and completely so of the Andes, extending about 60 leagues from south to -north, and 10 leagues from east to west, nearly in the latitude of Santiago de Chile, and in the longitude of San Luis de la Punta. " Carolina is situated 4903 feet above the sea, right at the foot of the Tomalasta, the biggest mountain in this sierra, which rises to a height of 6000 feet over the sea. " Potatoes, milk, butter, cheese, and meat are cheap, as there are many little ohacras with irrigation in the valleys, which might soon produce on a larger scale, if the men were not pre- vented from working by the illegal military service on the frontiers, which they dread more than joining the robber bands. So they hide away, and leave their chacras in charge of the women. " There is not a tree or bush to be found in the whole sierra, except a few poplar trees near the house where I have rented my room. " The temperature is very agreeable, varying between 60 and 70 degrees from morning to night, and after sunset it remains 190 HANDBOOK OF THE KIVBE PLATE. warm for a long time, sinceHhe bare rocks deliver up the heat they received during the day from the sun." San Luis took the following prizes at the Cordoba Exhibition, 1872 :— Hides, dye-woods, and cheese : two bronze medals. This province occupies the lowest rank, all kinds of industry being in a back-sp^ard condition. City of San Luis, Founded in 1597 by Martin Garcia de Loyola in a locality then known as Punta de los Venados, or Deer Point, from which circumstance the natives have always borne the nickname of " Pointers," and. in the civil wars the Puntanos invariably figure as excellent light cavalry. Nothing can be more picturesque than the situation of this city, at a height of 2550 feety com- manding a view of the whole province, and taking in iiie snow- capped stmimits of the Andes, one of which is supposed to be Aconcagua, 23,900 feet high, which is distant 216 geographical miles. Immediately over the city is the final point of the Sierra de San Luis, which has an elevation of 4550 feet. The stratum of rock or sand has invariably a layer of 3 feet of soil, watered by the Chorrillos stream, and all about the city you find gardens, where oranges, grapes, poplars, and willows grow in luxuriance. San Luis boasts a Governor, Ministers, Legislature, &c., but is a, poor place, irregularly built, and having only 3748 inhabitants, of whom there are 4 women to 3 men. The municipal division consists of 4 wards, and the schools are attended by 558 children, one-half of the inhabitants being able to read. San Luis is in 33° 17' S. lat., 8 leagues from Mendoza, and 120 W. from Buenos Ayres. The railway now in construction will bring i^ into immediate connection with the rest of the Eepublic, and make it a halting-place for travellers from Buenos Ayres to the Andes. The suburban districts are called Chomillos, Chalante, and Chosines. At present San Luis is attracting some notice by its runloured gold veins. SAN lUIS. 191 Carolina, Canada Honda, Cerritos Blancos, and the other central parts of this proTince are rich in mineral wealth, which up to the present, for want of capital and the proper machinery, has been little worked. In the Cerros del Gigante and Quijadas, gold, silver, and lead are foimd in large quantities, but owing to want of experience among the native miners and the primi- tive tools with which they are provided, until now little trouble has been taken to turn to good accoimt these natural advan- Last year was published an ofScial report, drawn up by an engineer named Eamon de la Sierra for the Government of San Luis, in which the Sierra Carolina is thus described :— " The Carolina mine is situated 2^' leagues W. of Canada Honda, and tradition says that in former times immense quan- tities of gold have been taken out, the name or period of its first discovereri being lost. In the neighbouring hills are numerous mines that have been partly worked and then abandoned, the nature of ,the works showing how ignorant the miners were of geological science or the proper method of working. Buena Esperanza is stUl being developed by Messrs. Anton Schmidt and Co., who began last February and have invested a capital of 1600Z. sterling in the works ; they have sunk two shafts, piercing some very rich veins of metal; one shaft is 240 feet deep and 3 in diameter, and was begun some years ago by Sr. Puebla, who had to give it up for want of capital. The other is 16S feet deep, with much water, and was originally sunk by Sr. Pinero, who extracted much gold and went to Buenos Ayres to buy machinery, but was murdered in that city; this caused the works to be abandoned. It gives an average of 4 ounces gold to the " oajon" of quartz. The present owners are putting up sheds, machinery, &c., and the staff comprises the two pro- prietors, 12 miners, and 8 other employes. Claims have been , made in the same hUl range by Messrs. Trederic Euler, Henry Lapage, Alexander Olses, and German Lallement, who are about ' to start similar works. 192 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVER PLATE. " At Cerrillos, north of Carolina, Messrs. Eobert'CIark and Co. are about to recommence a mine which Don Juan Bravo aban- doned two years ago. At Los Pajaros there is another impor- tant mine, west of Carolina, where D. Nemencio Guevara was working till 1868. " At the Estancia hill, east of Carolina, D. Bonifacio Velas- quez extracted gold, but gave up the works some six years ago, about the same time that Claudio Terejia, gave up his diggings in the same range. Eight years previous D. Baylon Jofrey.was forced by the water to abandon a mine near that place from which he had taken gold quartz and galenas of a silver character. The latest worker in the Estancia hiUs was Sr. Zabala, who gave up gold digging so -late as 1870. " At Santa Bosa, south-west of Carolina, there is a mine which was worked with profit by Eusebio Lucero till 1856 ; and in the same hills D. Felix Valdivia worked tiU. 1862. A friar, named Thomas Parody, along with Liberate Miranda, carried on diggings until four years ago. '•'To the north and south of Carolina there are numerous mines now abandoned, the owners of which I could not discover, the oldest neighbours being unable to tell me." Sdladillo, This department is alike remarkable for its mineral, pastoral, and agricultural importance, and derives its name from a salty stream which falls into the Quinto. All the slope of the Sierra de San Luis, for 20 leagues, as far as Carolina, is pretty thickly settled, and the inhabitants raise grain which they grind at one of the old mining mills. The lower grounds afford excellent pasture for horses and cows. Two gold mines exist at Carohna, which have been worked at various intervals, and one is now in active operation under an American company : there are also a gold and a copper mine at Santa Barbara. The village of Saladillo has a school and 96 inhabitants. SAN LUIS. 193 San Jose del Morro Lies between Saladillo and the Cordoba frontier : its northern part towards Eenca is watered by tbe Quinto : its southern limit is lost in the pampas. At one period extensive cattle farms existed as far as Paso de Leohuzo, 15 leagues down the Quiato, on both sides, but the Indians devastated this country so often that now it is a wilderness, although wood, water, and pastures abound. San Jose del Morro, seat of the local authorities, stands at an elevation of 3400 feet. Villa Mercedes, sometimes called Fort Constitucion, the most important town in San Luis, although inferior in population to the capital and to Luxan, was founded in 1856, and promises to be the centre of the railway system in the Andine provinces. A wide-gauge railway is it* construction from Eio Cuarto, to connect Mercedes with the port of Eosario ; and a narrow-gauge line from Buenos Ayres passes by here to Mendoza and San Juan. Mercedes has a church, schools, and 1596 inhabitants. Cvichate, a hamlet of 373 inhabitants. Menea Comprises the fertile valley of Concaran, between the sierras of Cordoba and San Luis, from which descend many precious streams that are tributaries to the Quinto. There are two villages, Eenca and Dolores, which do a good business in wool, wheat, maize, &o. Eenca is in the centre of the department, and counts 904 inhabitants, who have fine plantations of fruit- trees. Dolores has 490 souls: both have public schools, at- tended by 289 children. Santa Barbara Lies west of Eenca and south of Saladillo: it is a moun- tainous district, almost exclusively pastoral, though possessing mineral wealth. At the mouth of the defile of Santa Barbara 194 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEE PLATE. is the village of that name, with 228 inhahitants and a school of 74 children. There is another village called Eincon del Carmen, with a school of 67 children. Piedra Blanca Occupies the north end of the Sierra de San Luis, and touches the provinces of Cordoba, Eioja, ajid San Juan. It is well wooded and watered, especially on the eastern slopes, where vegetation is luxuriant, and grains of gold are found in the river Quines. Some agriculture exists in the north-west. The village of Piedra Blanca has 821 inhabitants and a public . school. San Francisco Lies between the ranges of San Luis and Quijadas, and is famous for the gold deposits at Tomolasta. "fhe town of Luxan, second in the province, counts 2334 inhabitants : and the village of San Francisco, at a height of .2600 feet, has a population of 1414, 3 leagues from the gold mines. Saladas is a district of cattle-farming. Nogoli. A mountainous district between Gigante and Socoscora, well wooded, and irrigated by streams that descend from the Fan- canta range. ( 195 ) CHAPTEE XI. MBNDOZA. At the foot of the Andes, this fertile and favoured province covers an undetermined area of about 50,000 square mUes, being bounded on the north by San Juan and on the east by San Luis, but its southern limit is lost in the pampas of Patagonia, In population Mendoza ranks tenth among the provinces, the census of 1869 giving 65,413 inhabitants, including 6144 foreigners, mostly Chilians. The climate is mild and peculiarly adapted for persons suffering from pulmonary affections. Over 10,000 square miles of land are irrigated by the rivers Mendoza, Tunuyan, Desaguadero, and Diamante, the crops ranging from sixty to one hundredfold. Cereals and fruits are grown in some districts, while others are devoted to fattening cattle for the Chilian market. The white wine of Mendoza is well known : some years the yield of grapes is so abundant that the growers cannot afford to buy casks, but lose the vintage, there being no market, since the cost of freight to Buenos Ayres is enormous. Dried fruits are exported on mule-back to Chile. Flax is cultivated with success, as weU as tobacco and silk. The first sUkworms were introduced by Mr. Andrew Thorndyke in 1839, to the number of 874, and in less than six years their number increased to two millions. The first tobacco was planted a few years before by a Spanish prisoner from the battle of Maypu, to whom the authorities presented a gold medal and a life-pensiop for this service. Poplars are largely grown for general purposes, often reaching over 100 feet in height. The province has not prospered so much as it ought to have done : for many years it suffered prolonged civil wars, and when on the point of improvement, in 1861, it met with the 2 196 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVER PLATE. disastrous earthquake which ruined Mendoza city, destroying nine-tenths of the inhabitants. Mendoza takes its name from the Viceroy of Chile, Garcia de Mendoza, in 1559, who having subdued the Araucanian tribes sent Captain Pedro Castillo over the Andes to annex the dominion, afterwards called Cuyo, to the colonies of the Spanisli crown. The native tribe of Guarpes, unlike the warlike Calchaquies of Gatamarca, was of a patient and industrious dis- position, readily submitting to the conquerors on condition of being left undisturbed in the cultivation of their fields. After two centuries, in 1776, the province of Cuyo, of which Mendoza was capital, was transferred from the Viceroyalty of Chile to that of Buenos Ayres. Cuyo was one of the 13 United Pro- vinces which proclaimed Independence in 1816, but four years later it was dismembered, San Juan and San Luis forming dis- tinct provinces. The Pehuenches Indians at present hold all the country south of the Diamante, Fort San Bafael being the farthest settlement on the side of the desert and about 60 leagues S. of Mendoza city. Governor Segura in 1854 projected a line of semi-military colonies by San Eafael, Punta Monte, Chacay, Malargiie, and Eio Grande, where wood and water abound, as well as rich pastures : the scheme might have been carried out but for the disaster of 1861. European immigration must necessarily be slow, as this territory is a thousand miles inland from Buenos Ayres : mean- time the construction of a railroad across the Andes, as surveyed recently by Mr. Eobert Crawford, over the Planchon pass, would bring these lands on the high road from Buenos Ayres to Chile. The melting of the snows contributes to fertilize the plains, and the head waters have rise here which go to form the rivers Negro and Colorado that flow across the continent into the Atlantic ocean. The mineral wealth of the country is said to be varied and inexhaustible. A petroleum spring on the Planchon route, 70 leagues S. of Mendoza, gives 40 per cent, of pure kerosene, according to the statement of the census commissioners ; there MENDOZA. 197 are numerous apertures through which the liquid exudes, and " under the action of a hot sun it runs over the ground and then hardens into a compact mass. A similar deposit of bituminous stufT, which is said to be kerosene, is met with at 10 leagues from Mendoza, Some of the mountains are extinct volcanoes, others abound in marble, lime, pumice stone, flint, quartz, agate, amethyst, cornelian, and sapphire ; the discovery of coal-beds has often been reported, and mines of iron, lead, and copper are in many places, though few are working. The best known are the Paramillo mines, from which the Spaniards took large quantities of silver in the last century, situate 23 leagues westward of Mendoza, on the Uspallata road to Chile, about 10,000 feet above the level of the sea ; in 1867 works were resumed here by Villanueva, an Argentine, and Del Canto, a Chilian miner, who use bituminous earth mixed with firewood in their furnaces and extract copper and silver. Valuable minerals are supposed to~ exist in the Indian country, some specimens of which are reported by Major Eickard to possess 70 per cent, of copper combined with antimony. The ParamiUo range, a branch of the Andes, rises to 10,000 feet : behind this the valley of Uspallata is found, some .5500 feet over sea-level. The snowy peak of Tupungato reaches 21,000 feet of elevation, and of lesser height are the summits called Iglesia, Plata, Lion's Peak, Juncal, San Francisco, Arbola, Cruz de Piedra, Portillo, San Lorenzo, Mineros, Planchon, San Jose, Maypo, and Tin- guiririca, some of which reach 17,000 feet. In th6 far south are the ranges of Nevado and Payen ; the former appears volcanic, from the lava on its sides and the smoke often observable around its peaks, as weU as from reports like thunder heard by the inhabitants of San Eafael. The Payen range is much visited by miners, who also cultivate patches in the fertile valleys that look down on the river Chali- Lehu and the opening plains of the pampas. The Pehuenches Indians give much trouble by stealing cattle, which they drive across into Chile. Of the original Guarpe tribe which inter- married with the Spaniards not a trace remains. 198 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. The province comprises 12 departments, as follows : — City and suburbs 14,583 inhabitants. Guaymallen 8,128 „ San Vicente 4,439 „ Maypu 4,603 „ Luxan 4,960 „ San Carlos 3,824 „ Junin 7,495 „ San Martin .. .." .. .. 8,046 „ Kosario 2,060 „ San Bafael 1,361 „ Tupungato 2,357 „ LaPaz ' 3,057 „ 65,413 „ One-sixth of this nmnber can read, and there are 104 schools attended by 7485 children, of whom two-thirds are boys. The proportion of illegitimate children is 22 per cent. Goitre is so prevalent that 3 per cent, of the population suffer from it; malignant pustules are also common. Six persons have reached over 100 years, the oldest being Petrona Blanco of San Martin, aged 120. The earthquake of 1861 cost the province 15,000 lives; the previous census of 1857 gave a population of 47,478. At present nearly one-tenth of the inhabitants are natives of Cluls. The total number of Europeans is only 283, of whom 36 are women. The area of cultivated land is 300,000 acres, of which nearly two- thirds are under alfalfa, for fattening cattle; the vineyards cover more than 10,000 acres. The trade with Chile averages '200,000?. yearly, of which nearly two-thirds are exports to that country. The province of Mendoza toot the following prizes at Cordoba : — F. Crespo, dried fruits : gold medal. C. Segovia, marble : silver medal. C. Calle, native cotton : silver medal. M. Videla, wines : silver medal. Mendoza Committee, coal, oil, &c. : two silver and one bronze medal. H. Lemaistre, hams : bronze medal. M. Lespinasse, brandy : bronze medal. D. Hudson, porcelain : bronze medal. MENBOZA. 199 This province acquitted itself pretty fairly, considering how thinly it is populated. Mr. Clark's proposed railway to Chile will pass through Mendoza, uniting Buenos Ayres with Valparaiso, and bringing them within 48 hours' journey. The estimated cost of the line is 6,000,000Z. sterling, length 800 miles, steepest grade 1 in 25, with a tunnel 2 miles long at the Cumbre, 12,000 feet above sea-leveL City of Mendoza. The present city was begun after the dreadful earthquake of March 20th, 1861, on almost the same site as the ruins of that 'which had been founded by Captain Pedro Castillo 300 years before, and which counted 15,000 souls previous to the catastrophe. The number of victims has never been ascer- tained, but probably exceeded 12,000, including the French geologist Bravard, who had predicted that before long the), place would be destroyed in this manner. The loss of life was greater from the fact that the townspeople were assembled in the churches at thg devotions of Lent when" the earthquake occurred, at eight o'clock in the evening : the forty.-eight blocks composing the city were instantly destroyed, but the suburbs, which extended some miles, partially escaped. Fires raged for eight days, and numbers of marauders from the country districts occupied themselves with plunder instead of rescuing survivors from the ruins. Don Domingo Oro and a few others were extricaited from the ruins. So complete was the destruction that even the course of the streets could not be traced. The shock was felt at Buenos Ayres, a distance of 700 miles, the pendulums of some clocks being observed on the evening in question to stop for a few seconds. Mendoza enjoys an admirable situation for trade with Chile or for picturesque effect. Under the shadow of the Andes, close to the Uspallata pass, it was a favourite halting-place with travellers before steamers were established* between Europe and Chile, and old writers tell us of pleasant evenings 200 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEE PLATE. on the Alameda with Mendozina beauties, or extol the grand panorama in which Tupungato with its eternal snows forms so striking an object. Few people now-a-days, unless for pleasure, cross the Andes, although the TJspallata pass is so easy that from November to May it may be effected even by ladies with- out much danger : the Argentine Government has erected huts of refuge along the route. When the Eio Cuarto Bailway reaches Mendoza, bringing this place within three days by rail from Buenos Ayres, it is likely the journey over the Andes will again attract travellers. It usually takes four days from Mendoza to Santa Rosa in Chile, and mules may be hired for ^10 : the scenery is of course unrivalled, the highest poiat of the pass being 12,956 feet over sea-level. The approaches to Mendoza are much admired, the traveller passing through long avenues of poplars for many miles between irrigated farms and meadows. The Zanjon, sometimes called Guaymallen's canal from the Cacique of that name who ruled here at the time of the Spanish conquest, is a canal drawn from the river Mendoza near Luxan, and constructed by the Indians : it traverses the city, and small aqueducts branch off in all directions to water the houses and gardens, except in the higher suburbs on the western side, where a reservoir is kept, from which the neighbours draw their suppKes. North-east of the city is the cemetery of El Eosario, surrounded by farms, and at a distance of 3 leagues from Mendoza we find a thermal spring called Borbollon, 26 degrees centigrade all the year round, from which flows a stream that waters the Carpinteria and Jocoli districts. There are sundry outlying hamlets, such as Chimba, Alto de Godoy, Plumerillo, Panqueja, SapaUar, and Algarrobal, the inhabitants living by agriculture. South of Mendoza is the pleasant suburb of San Nicolas, with country- houses. In summer time the citizens go to a bathing-place called Challao, in the mountains. There are excellent mineral waters at the defile of Villa Viceneio, 15 leagues from town, on the UspaUata route : these are close by a village and mines of MENDOZA. 201 silver, lead, and copper, but the works have been abandoned since 1861. The still more famous bath^s'of Puente del Inca are near a natural bridge called after the Incas, higher up the pass, and the waters are feputed of much efficacy. The villages lying eastward of Mendoza are Tortugas, Aoequias de Gomez, Pedregal, Cruz, and Eodeo del Medio, the last-named being some miles in length : all irrigated from the river Mendoza and highly cultivated. South-east are the hamlets of Cruz de Piedra, Villa Seca, and Desagiie, also occupied by agricultural peasants. The department counts 14,583 souls, but the city has only 8124, there being 4 females to 3 males : the schools are attended by 553 children, and nearly one -fourth of the popula,tion can read or write. Mendoza is the seat of a Governor, Legislature, Federal Judge, &c., and is 700 miles W. of Buenos Ayres, communicating by telegraph with the capital, and also with Chile. San Vicente. This department lies southward from Mendoza, the village of San Vicente being in fact a suburb of the city, after you pass the hamlet of San Nicolas. Vineyards and fat pastures cover a large area, this district possessing excellent irrigation from the Guaymallen canal. Another farming district is the Chacras de Coria. Although the southern portions are sterile, thay might easily be rendered productive if irrigated from the rivers Mendoza and Tunuyan. The village of San Vicente has 781 inhabitants. Luxan, The richest grazing department in the province, lies 4 leagues S. of San Vicente, on both banks of the river Mendoza. It is much frequented in the summer months, for its mild tempera- ture and the bathing in the river. The districts of Compuerta, Vistalva, Paraiso, and Cruz de Piedra are well watered and cultivated, but the larger one of Sulunta, which stretches away to the Uco valley and the Andes, is poor and thinly settled. 202 HANDBOOK OF THE KIVEE PLATE, V San Martin. The village wliicli gives name to this department was founded by General San Martin, the hero of Independence : the site was unluckily so swampy that the village has not prospered, and counts only 541 inhabitants. The department is one of the most advanced in agriculture ; the traveller passes , along good roads lined with poplars, through the districts of Eiojita, Isla, Eetamo, Independencia, Monte Caseros, Santa Eosa, MaUea, and Dormida, all which are watered by means of canals drawn from the Tunuyan and Mendoza rivers. San Martin is eastward from Luxan and San Vicente. , La Paz, Lying near the Desaguadero, on the San Luis frontier, is so favourably situated along the Tunuyan river that numberless canals serve to irrigate its well-cultivated lands, which are chiefly used for pasture. A canal 40 miles in length unites the Tunuyan and Desaguadero, which will permit all the interme- diate country to be devoted to farming as soon as the Indians become less troublesome on the right bank of the Tunuyan. The village of La Paz, of recent date, promises to attain some importance, being exactly half-way between Mendoza and San Luis. The surrounding woods are used to pasture cattle. The districts of Chacarita, Barrial Grande, and Eamadita are likewise pastoral. Lagunas. The lagoons of Huanacache comprise a semicircular area from the river of Mendoza to tte head waters of the Desaguadero, on the San Juan frontier. The inhabitants are descendants of the original Guarpe Indians, and avail themselves of the periodical overflow of these lakes to raise abundant crops, while they also devote much of their attention to fishing, making weirs for the purpose. At the same time a few herds of cattle subsist on the aquatic plants of the lagoons, and good drinking MXITDOZA. 203 water is always obtainable by digging wells a few feet deep. The village of Kosario, on the lake of that name, is the chief town of the department, and hamlets with chapels are also found at San Miguel, Ascencion, San Pedro, and Alto Grande. In the districts bordering on the Mendoza river the inhabitants draw canals thence to irrigate their lands, but the Indians prefer planting in the low grounds adjoining the lagoons. San Carlos, Along the slope of the Andes, between the rivers Tunuyan and Diamante, occupies half the Uco valley, and is luxuriantly watered, well cultivated, possessing a numerous population and considerable trade with Chile, The department takes the name from a fort built by the Spaniards in the last century, near the foot of the Portillo pass, which is open from November to March ; but travellers to Chile prefer the Uspallata. The fort and village of, San Carlos are 25 leagues S. from LuxAn, and 30 from Mendoza, at the junction of two streams. A small settlement of Chilian immigrants, called Chilecito, is met 2 leagues S.W. of San Carlos. Sundry spurs of the Andes display rich marble, as yet undeveloped, and bituminous soil exists in the lower grounds. The districts of Carrizal, Arboleda, Melocoton, and Totoral pertain to this department, the total population of which is 3824, including 8 Europeans. There are 52 children attending the public school. San Bafael, The most southern department in the province, occupies the rest of the Uco valley, southward from the Diamante to the river Atuel. Fort San Eafael stands 60 leagues S. of Mendoza city, and is the last outpost of civilization, surrounded by some well-tilled chacras. The Pehuenches and Auca Indians often come hither to sell their skins and other wares, living on friendly terms with the Christians. A regular traffic is carried on, especially in stolen cattle, between the southern Indians and 204 HANDBOOK OB' THE EIVEK PLATE. the CMlian province of Arauco, by means of the low passes of Peteroa, Sazo, and Planchon, which hardly exceed 10,000 feet over sea-level, and are often open most of the year. The petroleum spring is 10 leagues S. of San- Eafael. All the country below San Eafael is held by the- Indians, but the nomiaal limit of the province is supposed to be the Eio Grande, after- wards called Colorado. A military expedition once reached Mount Limen-Mahuida (" whet-stone peak "), near Curra- Languen, or the "bitter lake." All these parts are flooded when the snows melt, and Lake Nahuel-Huapi is iu the midst of fine scenery, where the Eio Negro of Patagonia takes its rise. About 3 leagues W. of Fort Eafael is found a greenish alabaster, and all tne hilly country is said to abound in silver, especially at a place 10 leagues N. of the fort. The banks of the Tunuyan are thickly wooded : here tigers are found, and vicunas and guanacos on the mountain slopes, as well as the majestic condor. Passes of the Andes. There are twenty-seven known passes over the Andes into Chile, but only two or three are much in use, the rest being either held by Indians or too difficult for travellers. Nahuel-Hiiapi, the most southern, is used by Patagonian Indians going to Port Montt or Valdivia; the highest point, called Pedro Eosales, is reported by Messrs. Fonck and Hers as only 2770 feet over sea-level, and 30 leagues from Montt colony. Arica, Einihue, and Villarica, communicating with Arancania. The Indians say they are practicable all the year round, and the eastern slopes covered with apple-trees. Pena-Blanca, Antuco, and Parqui-Tanquen, also used by Indians. Antuco is only 6900 feet high, and here Cruz passed in 1806, when he came from the Pacific to Buenos Ayres in 47 days. The Indians take cattle and salt by this route to ChUe. Planchon, used by Eanqueles cattle-lifters. Mr. Eobert Crawford surveyed this pass in 1872, for a railway to Chile. MENDOZA. 205 Highest point, 8225 feet; steepest gradients, 1 in 30 on Argentine, 1 in 20 on Chilian side ; sharpest curve, 574 feet radius; 15 tunnels, in all 2200 yards long; 2 viaducts, the highest 190 feet high and 660 feet long. The summit is 830 miles from Buenos Ayres, and 59 from the nearest railway station in Chile. Damas, Peteroa, and Cruz de Piedra, also Indian passes. The first was so called by Souillac in 1805, because, he said, ladies could cross at any season. Pissis states the Cruz pass to be 11,360 feet, but one of the shortest and best. Portillo, described by Darwin and Dr. Gillies, is 13,240 feet high, difficult, and often shut with snows ; it reduces the distance to 80 leagues from Mendoza to Santiago. Uspallata, or Cumbre, 12,870 feet, is the usual overland route to Chile, and proposed by Mr. Clark for his Transandine railway. Couriers cross it all the year, but travellers only from November to April inclusive. The only dangerous part is the Cumbre, which should be passed before 10 a.m. to avoid the high wind. The journey can be made in three days, but is usually done in six, viz. : Mendoza to VUla-Vicencio, 15 leagues ; to-^sp9,llata, 15 ; to Punta Las Vaoas, 15 ; to the Pie del Cumbre, 10 ; to Guardia Vieja, 12 ; to Santa Eosa, 13 ; in all, 80 leagues. Potrero-Alto separates from the last at Punta Las Vacas, is shorter and more difficult. Horcones, formerly used by smugglers. Los Patos, by which General San Martin led his army into Chile in 1817, takes its name from the abundance of ducks, and is used by San Juan traders to Valparaiso, the distance being 128 leagues. Calingasta, Tocota, Agua-Negra, Coconta, Colangue, Deidad, and Dona-Ana are passes between Sap Juan and the ChUian provinces of Aconcagua, Coquimbo, and Atacama, much used for the traffic of fat cattle into Chile, as well as by muleteers. Three passes, called Pircas, Pulido, and Come-cabaUo, connect Oopiapd with San Juan, and are much frequented in summer 206 EAITDBOOK OF THE EIVEB PLATE. the distance being 200 leagues : they are high, and exposed to frequent storms. From Salta to Copiap6 there are the routes of Fiambuld, San Francisco, and Autofagasta, passing through much desert country ; distance about 200 leagues, taking 15 days ; height, 10,000 feet. Despoblado, from Salta to Cobija across deserts, takes 20 , days. To Bolivia there are two excellent roads always practicable : the old high road from Salta to Peru, well supplied with mulsB, and the Humahuaca road, from Jujuy to Suipacha. ( 207 ) CHAPTER XII. SAN JUAN. This proAnnce ranks eleventli in the Confederation, having only 60,319 inhabitants, or 10,000 less than De Moussy's estimate in 1859. It is, however, the most progressive in the interior, anc|. has for successive years earned the prize given by the Argentine Congress for the province which shows the largest relative nnmber of children attending school. There are 62 schools, attended by 6907 children. It has also pro- duced a variety of learned and distinguished men, including President Sarmiento, Dr. Eawson, and others. Its agricultural and mining industries are more advanced than in any other of the provinces. There are half-a-million acres under alfalfa pastures, where cattle are fattened for the Chilian market, and this occupation as well as the care of vineyards absorbs one- third of the entire popiilation. The land artificially irrigated often gives crops a hundredfold, especially maize, wheat, and beans. But for the scarcity of capital much more land might be irrigated and brought under cultivation. The only river of any importance is the Eio San Juan, which has its source in the Cordilleras, passes by the city and is lost in some lakes in the southern part of the province. The climate is healthy, dry in winter, and very hot in summer, with short raias occasionally. Grapes, oranges, and peaches thrive in great abundance, but the fig and oKve have deteriorated. Foreign trees are acclimatized at the Government Quinta Normal, which is under the direction of a German. Timber for firewood is found all over the department. Coal exists at Marayes, and excellent samples were obtained by Mr. Klappen- bach, but the locality is too remote to be of much use, and 208 HANDBOOK OF THE EITEE PLATE. Congress refused Mr. Klappenbach's application for the premium of discovery, as these coal-beds were certainly known before. Silver mines are so numerous that they are said to cover an area of 10,000 square miles ; many of them are very rich, and as soon as the railway, now in constrnction, opens up this pro- vince, mining will form a principal industry. The best known mines are at Tontal, Jachal, Guayaguas, San Padro; Iglesia, Marayes, Morado, Guachi, Gualilan, and Huerta ; the works of the Anglo-Argentine Co., of London, are at Gualilan. The Tontal silver mines, 100 miles S.E. from ■ the city, are reputed the richest. In other places are said to exist copper, iron, and marble. The province may be said to consist of three great valleys— Tulan, in which the city of San Juan is situated ; Jachal, with a town of the same name, and Valle Fertil. The census of 1869 gives the population as follows : — San Juan 28,192 Jachal 12,040 Valle Fertil 2,055 Pozitos 4,158 Angaco 5,479 Cauoete 3,221 San Martin 5,174 60,319 It is the only province which shows no increase of population during the last ten years, and this is owing to the incessant con- vulsions of which San Juan has been the scene. The aboriginal inhabitants were Guarpe Indians, as in Mendoza, who inter- married with their conquerors, and at present in many of the rural departments this mixed race is plainly observable, but not in the city. De Moussy gives the area at 33,000 square miles, but the San Juaninos claim 96,000; the province lies between the 30th and 32nd parallels of S. lat. on the eastern slope of the Andes. SAN JTJAN. City of San Juan. It was founded in 1561 by CaptainB Castillo, Jofr6, and Mallea, on the banks of the river which bears its name, and from its position on the northern extremity of the Cuyo terri- tory was known as San Juan de la Frontera. In 1776 it re- ceiToda Deputy-Governor from Mendoza, and continued even after the Independence to be considered as a part of the pro- vince of Cuyo, until 1820, when it declared itself a separate State. The city, which stood originally at the place now called Pueblo Viejo, about 4 miles northward, had to be removed owing to inundations from the river ; its present population is 8353, there being 4 women to 3 men, and it counts 115 Euro- peans, of whom 9 are English, besides 319 Chilians. The town is watered by means of acequias or canals, one of which runs through each block. The principal square is nicely planted ; the public buildings comprise a cathedral, 3 churches, and 7 schools, the most remarkable of the latter being the Sarmiento Model School, with Grecian fa9ade and accommodation for 600 boys. Most of the houses are built of "adobes." An active trade is maintained with Chile, the leading merchants being Quiroga, Zavalla, Merlo, Carrie, Lloveras, Moreno, Eodriguez, and Aguiar. The journey to Chile takes five or six days by the Uspallata pass, which is open from 1st November to 1st May. The exports consist of fat cattle and dried fruits ; the raisins are of superior quality, although the native-grown wines are badly prepared. The Governor and principal authorities reside at San Juan. The suburbs comprise Concepcion, Desamparados, Santa Lucia, and Trinidad, with an aggregate population of 20,000 souls. The first occupies the site of the old capital, and offers a picture of superior cultivation. The second is on the Marque- zado route, passing the Murallon or dyke of 1000 feet in length, to prevent inundation : the hills abound in marble of various colours, and this district counts numerous limekilns. 210 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEE PLATE. This road also leads to the picturesque watering-place of Zonda, in a valley watered by a river of that name, famous for its fruits, at a medium elevation of 3300 feet over sea-level : hither the principal families repair in the summer months. Santa Lucia is beautifully irrigated, and produces wheat, fruits, and alfalfa in abundance, as also the districts of Chacritas, Eincon, and Cercado. The village of Trinidad, on the Pozitos road, has country houses and gardens of charming appearance. The usual yield of wheat is twenty-five fold, but in some places it has given 100 for one. The city of San Juan is 120 leagues from Cordoba, part of the way being desert. The new road passes over the Cordoba hiUs, through San Pedro, skirting the south point of the Llanos range, and by Guayaguas and Caucete to San Juan. Pozitos Is a populous and well-cultivated department, forming as it were a series of gardens, with rows of poplars between, and artificial irrigation. The Acequion and ParamiUos valleys are specially remarkable for the well-cultivated farms known as Durazuo, Barros, Acequion, Pedemal, and Quebrada de Montano. 'The road to Uspallata passes here. Eastward along the slopes of the Zonda, on the Mendoza route, are Caypiateria, Canada Honda, and Uuanacache : the first is useless from lack of water, but the two others yield fine wheat and grapes. At Cerrillos and Oochagual the industry is pastoral. The village of Pozitos is 3 leagues S. from San Juan, and in 1861 a battle was fought here. I Caucete, East of San Juan, extends from the foot of the Palo moim- tains to the lagoons of Huanacache and the sand-deserts which form the boundary with Eioja. In 1825 a company, was formed to cultivate a part of this district, but the civil wars prevented any efforts for more than thirty years, tiU. 1858, when canals were made, lands divided into farms of 40 cuadras each, and a SAN JUAlf. ■ 211 prosperous state of affairs inaugurated. Wheat, grapes, and poplars have enriched the first settlers, and the village of Caucete, which is about 7 leagues from San Juan, on the eastern bank of the Rio San Juan, is now the centre of a flourish- ing region of farms, which extends even up the slopes of Sierra de Palo, overlooking the high road from San Juan to San Luis. The Sierra Guayaguas, on the borders of Bioja, has a silver mine and some grazing farms. Angaco, Sometimes called Salvador, lies N.E. from San Juan, ^between the VUlicum and Pie de Palo ranges. A canal 20 miles long is drawn from the San Juan river to Punta del Monte, affording irrigation to the whole department, which is carefully cultivated. Angaco village, with a church and 808 inhabitants, is about 6 leagues N.E. of the city. The village of San Isidro is also in this department. Beyond Punta del Monte the high roads to Valle Tertil and Eioja are devoid of water for over 100 miles. San Martin Occupies" a pleasant valley beyond the Eio San Juan, facing the city, having on one side the Sierra Villicum, and on the other that of UUum ; it also comprehends the CaKngasta valley, which is traversed by an Andine stream that falls into the Rio San Juan. The village of San Martin, sometimes called Tapias, is near the last-mentioned river, and surrounded on all sides by smiling farms, as far as Tapiecitas, Barrial, and Pachaco. Five miles inland from the village, on the Villicum slopes, we find mineral waters of a sulphuric character. ' Valle Fertil Lies midway on the route from San Juan to Eioja, consisting, as its name indicates, of a fertile vaUey, cut off from the rest of the province by an uninhabited desert extending 100 miles in the direction of San Juan, and offering much difSculty to tra- p 2 212 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVEE PLATE. vellers. It Ib proposed to obviate this by establishing post- houses along the route, which is in places wooded and with pasture, up to a distance of 12 leagues from Valle FertO, when the numerous cattle-farms of this fine valley commence. The village of VaUe FertU has only 467 inhabitants, but the district is populous on the eastern or Bioja side of the sierra, and a sub- delegate with two justices of peace reside in the village. The sierra abounds in mineral wealth, especially about La Huerta, where mines have been in working for many years. Coal is found at Marayes„of excellent quality. Wood for mining fur- naces abounds. Jackal. An extensive valley to the north-west : the lower or southern part is arid, but the upper is well watered, and numerous smaller valleys converge into that of Jachal, each irrigated by an Andine stream : these streams swell the Eio Jachal to a good volume of water, which fertilizes the country for miles. The town of Jachal, with 981 inhabitants, is pleasantly situated in a zone of gardens and plantations. It is the residence of a sub-delegate and the usual district authorities, and maintains a brisk trade with the Chilian ports of Coqiiimbo and Huasco, sending thither across the Cordillera large quantities of fat cattle, and receiving in exchange European manufactures. It has but little trade with San Juan, from which it is distant 150 miles N.W., a desert of nearly 40 miles intervening from Eio San Juan to the Jachal valley. Parallel with this last is the Pismanta valley, the lower part of which is desert, but the upper well cultivated and famous for its sulphur springs, as well as for its gold mines »t ChHca, and those of silver at Antecristo. The Gualilan gold mines, belonging to a London company, are also in the Pismanta valley, at the foot of the Jachal range. Bodeo and Iglesia are two hamlets farther north, also in this department. In the mountainous country between the Jachal and Guandacol ranges are the mining districts of Pescado and Guachi-guaco. The desert and valley of Mogua lie south-east of Jachal ; the valley SAH JUAN. 213 is irrigated by the Moquina river, along which numerous water- mills are met with, and agriculture is in an advanced condition. Close to the town of Jachal are establishments for extracting ore from the minerals. If this province had pea : 32. o; as D U i 100 rfl '\4-\ CALLL'*DE la COLO L £ □ i. L I S D E C EL D E 9; °i W4 1d3 /3, ] 3i?, Ll -w. V L L E 11 i f/ I I L__rl J i, . J I rU 1 i i-TjjS „^__^ t * L L ^ D J. ^ C A '^ |8 I i«7 Ki 2« Ej^aoffe EXJLICACiON. N Trjnplcpr'otesUiTtte. besides numbers of horses and mules. The Fair family have 2 A 2 356 HANDBOOK 'of THE KIVBB PLATE. , other princely estates, -viz. Espartillar and Monte Grande, in the province of Buenos Ayres. The town of Durazno, 110 miles N.N.W. of Montevideo, is on the Eio Yi, near the mouth of the Arroyo Maciel, well built, on a slope of hills thickly wooded, and surrounded by quintas and small grain farms ; it has a church, schools, Juzgado, and several shops; population, 1500. It is in the centre of the Eepublio, and occupies an admirable position for internal trade. The Central Uruguay Eailway unites it with Montevideo. About the year 1828 a military colony, after the manner of the old Jesuit reductions, was formed here out of the inhabitants of that part of Misiones which bordered on Brazil, who abandoned their homes on the conclusion of the Brazilian war. The settlers, however, were not allowed to follow their agricultural-' pursuits, but were impressed as soldiers from time to time, in every successive revolution ; a few succeeded in gaining their former Indian homes, and some stray survivors are also fotmd scattered over the country. The late General Flores was one of the last of his people. This department, although called " Durazno," has anything but an abundance of "peaches." It returns a Senator and 2 Deputies. MINAS, One of the new departments formed in June, 1837, has an area of 554 square leagues, or upwards of 3,'500,000 acres; population, 26,000. It is a wild, mountainous territory, and the inhabitants are reputed very lawless. It is bounded on the -north by the Olimar Grande, which falls into the Cebollaty, and forms the boundary with Cerro Largo ; on the west, by the Cuchilla Grande and Arroyo Casupd, separating it from Florida and Durazno ; on the east, by the Cebollaty and the Cerros de Carap6 ; on the south, by the last-mentioned range and the head- waters of the Sta Lucia. Agriculture is almost unknown, even sheep-farming has made little progress, and the mines of lead, silver, and cdpper lie idle, though many of them were worked RITEAL DBPAETHIKNTB. 3S7 ' by the Spaniards. Azara was of opinion that diamond and topaz mines also existed, which Dean Funes seems to confirm, on the authority of the mineralogist Petivenil, sent out by the Spanish Gpveminent. Gold-beds have recently been spoken of, as also coal, but the latter proved merely a bituminous clay. The plant Terba-mdte is indigenous. The department is inter- sected by the Sierra de Minas, the ranges of Polanco, Carape, Sepulturas, AguUa, Aigud, Siete Hermanos, Penitentes, Per- didos, Maljabar, &c., some of which attain an elevation of 1500 to 2000 feet. Among the few estancias of note is that of M. Bouvet, a French resident, whose establishment is close to the Barriga Negra, in the Sierra Polanco ; it was begun in 1863, on 3 square leagues of land, and the proprietor has spent over 6000Z. in importing rams from Germany. The moxmtains form an amphitheatre around the town of Minas, which is regularly built, and counts 1700 inhabitants ; it is 70 miles N.E. of Montevideo. The Cerro Pelado, or "bald peak," is 2050 feet over sea-level. The Penitentes and Perdidos have a picturesque appearance. The affluents of the Sta Lucia and CeboUaty take their rise in these hills ; the surrounding country is fertile. About 30 miles N. of Minas begins the Sierra de Polanco, sometimes called Barriga Negra, a wild deso- late range ; numerous crosses are met with where people have been murderecl. The Sierras de lUescas and Avarias are met with before reaching Olimar Grande. The stock of this department comprises 200,000 sheep, 360,000 horned cattle, and 90,000 horses. Minas returns 1 Senator and 3 Deputies. It raises 55,000 fanegas of wheat and 5000 of maize. There is a mill at Minas belonging to a Frenchman. MALDONADO. This department is bounded on the north-east by Brazil, on the north and west by the CeboUaty and Sierras de Aigu4, on the south and east by the Atlantic. The frontier line with Brazil, 358 HANDBOOK OF THE KIVBE PLATE. accordmg to the treaty of October, 1851, starts from the mouth of the Ohuy, then draws a straight line south of Fort San Miguel ' of the Arroyo Palmar until its confluence with the San Luis or India Muerta, and following the latter to its embouchure in Lake Merim or Mini. Area, 575 square leagues, or 3,700,000 acres ; population, 20,000. The soil is admirably suited for agriculture, as well as for the vine and olive, and large forests of date-trees are found to produce a spirit of good flavour and quality. Marble abounds, and samj^les of coal have been exhibited in Montevideo yielding gas. ' At the quinta of Aguilar, near Maldonado, a wine is grown equal to canary ; Senor Fernandez, of Eocha, haS manufactured excellent tobacco. The sea-coast has productive fisheries, especially that of seals,, SQ valuable for their oil and skin. Oyster-beds have also been discovered. The coast-line is low and sandy, with numbers of lagoons, and some miles from the shore high mountain peaks rise at intervals. The Arroyo Chuy was the original frontier line fixed in the last century between the Spanish and Portuguese possessions in 33° 45' S. lat. The Spaniards have put up a stone- on the north side of the river, about 70 yards fjrom its mouth, with the inscription "E. C. 1784; 'neutral ground as far as Tahin." The Portuguese landmark was 21 leagues farther north, on the sea-shore, in a line with Arroyo Fahin, thus leaving Lake Merim or Mini neutral territory. Fort San Miguel, at the foot of Sierra Carbonero, stands 10 miles from the shore, and is in ruins. The great fortress of Sta Teresa, also in ruins, is 1 nule from the sea-coast at Castillos Chicos ; it stands on an elevflr tion, and is a splendid piece of engineering; it was built of granite in 1753, to hold sixty pieces of cannon and 400 men. Fresh-water springs are found 3^ miles N.E. The coast is very dangerous about Castillo Grande, so called from the resemblance of this island-rock to a feudal castle. Abouli 30 mUes S.W. we meet Cape St. Mary, usually considered the mouth of the Eiver Plate ; here the steamer ' Tacora ' was lost in 1872 ; the corre- ET7BAL DBPAETMBNTS. S59 eponding cape on the opposite side being Cape St. Anthony, on the Buenos -AyreB Coast, about 160 miles across. Cape St. :' Mary is 110 miles E. Of Montevideo. ' - Numerous shipwrecks occur on the Maldonado coast owing to the reihoval of the lighthouses, ."which the fishermen, said were iiijurious to the seal-fidiing, as the light frightened the seals. The coast was greatly infested with wreckers. Among the most striking natural features are the Cerro de DefuntOEi, or Dead-men's ^eak, 25 miles S.W. of the mouth of the Chuy, and 10 miles from shore ; the Cerro Chafalote, a triple peak in the midst of a plain, near Cape St. Mary ; the Sugar-loaf, 1500 feet high, 5 miles from the coast ; Sierra de las Animas, ■ or Solis Grande, 1930 feet high and 4 miles from shore. There - are several iflands along the coast, the largest being those of Lobes and Gorriti. The first-named is 42 miles W.S.W. of Cape St. Mary and 4 miles from the mainland ; it rises to a height of 93 feet and is visible from 12 to 15 miles, deriving its name from the number of " seals " that frequent its coasts ; the only inhabitants are fishermen, the best fishing season being .the months of May and June, when the seals are driven by the .'extreme cold from Tierra del Fuego,,and come to these shores. The sear fishery dates from the year 1782, and the exports of the last century show an average of 2000 skins yearly sent to Spain, besides the oil. Nothing can be more nauseous than the smell that comes from the island ; the seals also utter shrill cries. On Gorriti island we find the remains of some fortifica- tions of the last century (1777), which were restored by the Brazilians in 1825, when they occupied Maldonado. There were four batteries, mounting twenty guns, and in the centre a , building called Casa de la Compaiaia, where the skins and oil of Seals were deposited. The British Admiralty -^vanted to rent this island as a naval dep6t, but the Oriental Government refused. The island is low and sandy, and commands the entrance to Maldonado. 'f [Maldonado city was formerly a place of some importance, 360 HANDBOOK OF THE EITBE PLATE. where the vessels from Spain sometimes entered instead of going to Montevideo; its present population does not exceed 1000. It is 30 leagues E. of Montevideo, 18 S.W. of Cape St. Mary, and is much recommended for salt-water bathing. It was founded in 1762, under the name of San Fernando, by D. Pedro Zeballos, who came with several families from Eio Grande, being forced to abandon their homes by the Portuguese war. 1q 1773 it was fortified, and eight years later a batch of 227 Gallegos arrived, but the Indians gave such trouble that most of the settlers removed to Montevideo, 1 mile from the shore and 273 feet over the sea-level. There is plenty of good shoot- ing in the neighbourhood, and the British Vice-Consul is very attentive to visitors. The AguiUa quinta is well worth a visit. San Carlos, or New Maldonado, about 6 miles inland, not far from Laguna de Potrero, was founded in 1768, and has about 900 inhabitants. Eocha, the best town in the department, was founded in 1793; it is situate in the midst of rich and well-wooded pastures, on a river the same name 13 miles inland from Cape St. Mary, and close to Laguna de Bocha, a lake 10 miles long. It is 40 leagues E. of Montevideo and has a population of 2000. Immense swamps, called Banados de India Muerta, cover a superficies of nearly 1000 square miles between the mountain ranges near the coast and the northern frontier line of the CeboUaty and Lake Mini. The stock of this department comprises 25,000 sheep, 450,000 cattle, and 70,000 horses. The crops average 100,000 fanegas of wheat, and 10,000 of maize. Maldonado returns 1 Senator and 3 Deputies. There are 6 public schools, attended by 403 chil- dren. -Mail-coaches ply twice a week from Montevideo to San Carlos, Maldonado, Bocha, Solis Grande, Castillo, andChuy. A steamer also plies to Maldonado. Mr. Vaillant obtained a concession in June, 1870, for a railway to Pando, Solis Grande, San Carlos, Maldonado, and Bocha, with a branch to Minas, in all 150 miles; but Mr. Pealer is now carrying out this BUKAL DBPAKTMBNTS. . 361 line of railway. This department sent 65,000 head of cattle last year to Montevideo. There are 289 licensed' traders. Revenue, g32,000 ; value of property, ^4,000,000 ; property tax, ^16,000. CEEKO lAEGO. This department also borders on Brazil. The limits are : north, the Eio Yaguaron Cerros de Acegud and head-waters of the Bio Negro ; west, the Eio Negro and affluents of Olimar Grande ; south, the Olimar and Cebollaty ; and east, Lake Merim, or Mini, which is neutral territory between the Eepublic and Brazil. Area, 837 square leagues, or 5,500,000 acres ; populatibn, 33,000. It is a fine rolling country, well wooded and watered, but almost in the same primeval state as when the Minuanos hunted over it before the Spanish conquest. The mountain ranges are bold and picturesque ; the rivers Olimar, Cebollaty, and Facuari dould easily be made navigable from Lake Mini ; the lands are of extraordinary fertility ; nothing is wanted but population to turn to advantage such a splendid territory. Wherever agri- culture has been tried the resiilts are almost fabulous, and all thtproducts of the tropics may be raised in the open air. The •'woods abound in valuable timber of various kinds, and the 1 palm-tree gracefully towers above all. On the borders of Lake Mini is the Eincon de Eamirez, with an area of 99 snertes, or .500,000 acres. It was purchased at the close of the last century by an Andalusian, named Jose Eamirez (a shopkeeper in Montevideo), for the sum 'of 5000 hard dollars, and is now worth 200,000Z. sterling. It suffered much during the war of Independence and campaigns of Artigas and Oribe. About forty years ago the place was so much uifested with tigers that a famous hunter, named Tuca-Tigre, Mlled 105 in one year, for which he received ^Z a head. After the tigers came a plague of wild dogs, going about in packs and sometimes chasing men on horseback ; they made great havoc among cattle tilliSenor Eamirez offered 25 cents a tail for them, and in two years (49-51) tjiere were 5000 killed. 362 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. The joitit-stook fanning companies, called Cebollaty, Merinos, and Mini, bought large tracts of the Eincon. The total stock is returned as 160,000 sheep, 60,000 cows, 1500 horses, and 5000 tame mares. There is fine shooting and fishing, and a wayside inn is kept by Capt. Sagrera. About 8 leagues distant is the Mini joint-stock estancia, with a coast-line of 6 leagues on Lake Mini. ' Lake Mini, or Merim, as the Brazilians call it, is one of the largest in the continent of South America, being 60 miles long and 10 wide. It communicates by the river San Gppzalq with Laguna dos Patos, another immense sheet of fresh water, which has outlet to the Atlantic by Eio Grande. The lake system of Eio Grande will be of immense utility to this part of the country when these waters are thrown open to steamboat traffic. Villa Melo, the capital of the ^epxrtsKiat, is 91 leagues N.E. ■ of Montevideo, 52 W.S.W. of the port of Eio Grande, 15 E.S.B, of -flie Hio Negro, 65 N.E. of Durazno, and 44 S.E. of the Cunapiru gold-fields. It was a large and important town under the Spaniards, who founded it in 1796, and kept here a frontier military station. Its present population is about 5000 ; there are some good shops, and a few years ago it boasted 4 banks. The civil wars, however, have visited it severely. Some hand- some quintas surround the town ; one of them belongs to Mr. John B. Lockett, who has 100 acres under wheat, maize, potatoes, beans, melons, &c., which he disposes of in the markets of Melo and Taguaron. Land for agriculture is given by Government at a dollar per cuadra (2s. an acre), or can be purchased of private parties at ^3 per cuadra. Artigas, 19 leagues E.S.E. of Melo, is marked on some maps as San Servando ; it was founded in 1832, and stands exactly opposite the Brazilian town of Taguaron, in the province of Eio Grande. Artigas takes its name from the General who fought against the Spaniards : it is a straggling place, with barely 400 inhabitants, on the south-west bank of the Taguaron river, which sometimes overflows and obliges the townpeople to take to boats. BUEAL DEPAKTMENTS. ' 363 It was a great place for smuggling during tile Oribe wars. A ferry-boat plies pvery half-hour to Yaguaron, which is a xell- ^uilt town of 6000 inhabitants, doing a good trade with Eio Grande by steamers and sailing craft. The Yaguaron is 200 yards across, and navigable for vessels drawing 7 or 8 feet Vater. iThere is steam communication with Pelotas and Eio Grande once or twice a week, and the scenery is highly pic- turesque. The leading merchant of Artigas is D. Joaquin ^Bederos, who has a saladero, soap-factory, bakery, brick-kiln, and some dry-goods shops, besides two sailing vessels. There are two Englishmen, Mr. Edward Jackson, a resident of thirty years' standing, who has a farm and brick-kiln ; and Mr. Flana- gan, alias 'Fernandez, a builder. The authorities offer free gifts : of 80-aere farms to settlers, on payment of ^20 (equal to 4Z. sterling) registry fees, with the condition of occupying the place four years. These faTmfi are around the town, and 6000 acres are still open for applicants. Wheat gives 1 8 "to 1 -, f arm.«ervantB can earn 15 to 20 hard dollars monthly, with board and lodging. i'Artigas had formerly 5 saladeros, but now most of the cattle are sent across the frontier to Pelotas. The State school is attended by 100 children. ' The mail-coaches between Artigas and Montevideo make the journey (110 leagues) in four or five days; some go by Villa Melo, others by Treinta-tres, the road making frequent circuits to avoid the Cuchilla Grande. The only bridge to be met with is that north of the town' of Melo, which was built by a Frenchman some ten years ago. Between Cerro Largo and Montevideo there are two places well worth the traveller's attention. One is the Cerro Campana, where some ledges of granite are balanced like rocking stones, and when struck with a piece of ii'on give out exactly the sound of a bell. More remarkable stUl is the ■Cerro de los Cuentos, so called from the beads of various sizes and colours which are washed down after rains and picked up by the neighbours among the fissures and crevices of the rocks. The beads seem a freiak of Nature,, and can be put on a string 364 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVBK PLATE. for a necklace or rosary. The natives seem to tkink they are not of natural formation, but that probably in the missionary times the Indians deposited here a large quantity of heads, ■which are washed out by the rains feom some subterranean hiding-place. In a visit to this mountain in 1869 the writer obtained some of these beads of different sizes. Treinta-y-tres, called after the thirty-three patriots, is a half- built place of 1509 inhabitants, in the midst of fine scenery at the foot of the Cuohilla Grande, near the river Olimar Grande. The surrounding country suffers much froin brigands. There is a free school, attended by 110 boys and girls. The Olimar is a rapid stream of 150 yards wide, and the village being on the north side was until recently cut off from mail-coach commu- nication with Montevideo; but a Basque has now put up a " balsa " for passing over coaches, cattle, &c. Formerly canoes were used in crossing. Gauchos have often been drowned in tryiiig to swim their horses across; the safer way is with a " pelota," or cow's hide sewn up like a ball, to act as a Ufe-buoy. - The Olimar could easily be made navigable from Treinta-tres to Lake Mini, a distance of 20 leagues. The chacras around the village are under crops of wheat and maize ; a mill is much wanted. Most of the inhabitants are old Spaniards. The place was founded in 1857, and each of the streets bears the name of some one of the famous thirty-three. There are 92 azotea houses ; building sites 25 x 50 varas cost K12J. Farms of 20,cuadras (40 acres) may be bought for 6Z. (^30), and Senor Urrutra and others offer to give settlers house, food, seeds, cattle, &c., for the first year, to work the ground on halves. Wheat gives twenty- fold ; potatoes sell for 1 real, or 5d. per lb. Treinta-tres is 71 leagues N.E. of Montevideo, 27 S. of Melo. Mail-coaches ply twice a week from Montevideo. The department of Cerro Largo has 7 public schools, attended by 488 children. Eevenue of the department, ^34,700 ; value of property, ^6,500,000; property tax, ^2 5,000 ; stock: 500,000 sheep, 900,000 cows, 300,000 horses. It sends 30,000 EUEAIi DEPAKTMBNTB, ' ■ < 365 head of cattle to the saladeros of Montevideo, besides larger qunntities to Kio Grande. There are 313 merchants or dealers who pay licence. Cerro Largo returns 1 Senator and 2 Deputies. TAOUAKEMBO. This department, occupies one-sixth of the entire Eepublic, having an area of 1161 square leagues, or 7,500,000 acres, being more than that of the kingdom of Belgium. It is bounded on the north by the Sierra Sant' Ana, on the west by the Onchilla de Haedo and Arroyo Salsipuedes, on the south by the Eio Negro, and on the east by the same river up to its head- waters on the Brazilian frontier. Population, 34,000. The country is extremely wild and mountainous, and chiefly remarkable for the gold deposits found in the Arroyos Corrales and CuSapiru and in the country adjacent to Cefro Arecud. The auriferous strata ,are supposed to extend 10 or 12 miles in breadth and more than ,150 northwards across the Brazilian frontier. The Cerro Areoiia stands 6 miles west of the Cuchilla Taguary, and 250 ' miles north of Montevideo. It is, almost equidistant, in a right line, from Salto to Eio Grande. The first gold was discovered some fifteen years ago by a Gaucho crossing the Arroyo Corrales, who saw something glistening in the sand and found it to be a nUgget of pure gold, weighing 3 to 4 oz. The Corrales and CuSapiru are affluents of the Eio Tacuarembo, which, after a winding course of 80 miles, disembogues into the Eio Negro. In 1865 T). Manuel CastrUlen obtained the usual mining right over a gold-field at Cerro Aiecua, and got up a joint-stock 'company, capital 10,000Z. in 100 shares. The samples which lie exhibited in Montevideo were found to possess 62 per cent, pure gold, 8 silver, J paladio, 5 iron, 2^ antimony, and 22 sUicious quartz ; the pieces of quartz were opaque, with red veins of oxide of iron and bright yellow metallic globules, showing the complete character of auriferous quartz. The " gnachos " of the vicinity sell the gold to the " pulperos " at the rate of 13 hard dollars an ounce. Nuggets have been 366 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PI,ATE. commonly exhibited ia the shop-windows in Montevideo, and an English lesident got a dinner-service made entirely of this native gold. In 1866 Mr. Jehu Hitchens came out and made an elaborate survey of the CuEapiru gold-fields for a London company, but the result was not published. In September, 1868, Mr. Bankart was sent to England by the Cunapiru Mining Company for miners and machinery ; most of the latte:?, with wooden houses, &c., arrived the following year, and were sent up to Salto for conveyance overland. Some months later Mr. Bankart and his staff arrived, but difficulties at once spmng up which resulted in Mr. Bankart and his staff returning to England. The most successful miner of late years is General Goyo Suarez, who has taken out some 20 lbs. in nuggets and gold dust, obtaining about lOOOZ. for same in Montevideo : he works bare- foot among his niggers. During the last three years a miner, named Eogers, of Australian and Californian experience," has been working here ; he has two Mexican mills which can crush 2 tons of quartz in twenty-four hours, the yield being from 2 to 6 oz. per ton ; he reports the river-washing'poor, but says there are thick veins of auriferous quartz at from 40 to 60 feet deep. Don Miguel Eicorder, agent for Mr. Jackson of Monte- vjideo, buys whatever gold offers. There are about 106 Italians or Basques at Cunapiru. The majority of estancias on the frontier districts of this and the adjoining departments belong to Brazilian settlers, as we gather by the following official returns. Along the frontier of the Chuy and San Miguel, 36 Brazilian estancias of 342 square leagues and 460,000 head of cattle. On the frontier of Cuareim, 161 estancias, containing 381 square leagues and 420,000 head of horned cattle. At the south of the Arapey, 77 estancias, of 227 square leagues and 273,000, head of homed cattle. On the frontiers of Taguaron and Bage, 154 estancias of 832 J square leagues, but the amount of cattle on these estancias does not appear. In the department of Taeuarembo two-thirds of the inhabitants are Brazilian. EUBAIi DEPAKTMENTS. ' 367 ' Among the higtest mountains are the Vichadero, 2300 feet ; CerroiChato, 1200 feet; Baiovi, Mangrullo, Ombii, and Arecua. The chief waterooTirses are theTaguary, Caraguatay, Tacuarembo, and their- numberless tributaries, all pouring their waters into the Bio Negro. They take their rise in the ranges of Haedo, Cafiapiru, Yaguary, and Caraguatay, which run nearly parallel from north to south. The only town in the department is Tacuarembo, officially called San Fructuoso, in lat. 31° 39' south. It stands on a table-land over the Arroyo Tacuarembo Chico, surrounded by gardens and plantations.. It is well built and has 3000 inhabitants, doing a brisk business with the frontier districts. It is 102 miles east of Salto, 70 south of the Brazilian town of Sant',Ana, 71 north of the Eio Negro, and 220 north of Montevideo. • Farming stock: 150,000 sheep 1,300,000 horned cattle, and P5,000 horses. This depsLrtment exports 150,000 head of cattle annually to the saladeros of Eio Grande. Tacuarembo returns. 1 Senator and 2 Deputies. SALTO. This department is bounded on the north by the river Cuareim, iShich is the Brazilian frontier line, and falls into the. Uruguay, 95 miles north of the Salto ; on the west, by the river Uruguay ; on the south, by the Dayman, which falls into the Uruguay 10 miles below Salto ; and on the east, by the Cuchilla de Haedo, as far as the head-waters of the Cuareim. Area, 903 square leagues, or nearly .6,000,000 acres ; population, 30,000. The country is' diversified and picturesque, abounding in rich pastures and unexplored mineral resources. Agate of every variety, as well as jasper, porphyry, alabaster, &c., are found in the mountain ranges. The valleys are peculiarly adapted for rearing cattle, and we .find the stock to comprise 1,500,000 sheep, 710,000 homed cattle, and 330,000 horses. Medicinal herbs and all the fruits of temperate and tropical climates flourish here. Experi- 368 HANDBOOK OP THB EIVEB PLATE. ments in tea, coffee, and the mandioca plant Lave been successful. Some cotton samples sent to the London E3diibition of 1851 were much admired, and again in 1862 were awarded a medal and valued at 22d. per lb. ; the cotton-tree lives from ten to fourteen years, producing 3 to 4 lbs. annually. There are six mountain ranges, viz. the Yacar^ Curuzu, or Dead Crocodile, the Pelado, the Cuohilla de Belen (sometimes called Santa Eosa), the Arapey hills, CuchiUa de Salto, and Cuchilla de Haedo, all of which, except the last named, run almost from east to west. The chief watercourses are the Cuareim with its tributaries Tucutuya, Tacare Curuzu, Guard, Pelado, Tres Cruces, and Catalanes ; the Arapey, which disem- bogues 20 miles above the cataract of Salto Grande ; the Dayman, which drains all the country between the ranges of Salto and Queguay, having for tributaries the Laureles, Blanquillds, Tunas, &c. The best varieties of agate are found in the Cerros Catalanes, as well as crystallizations of the rarest beauty. Considerable quantities of agate are exported every year from Salto, chiefly for the German markets. Petrifactions are ofteft met with in the streams, which abound also with handsome shells and pebbles. One of the finest estancias in this department is that of Laureles, belonging to Baron Maua : it contains 32 suertes (over 150,000 acres), and is stocked with 150,000 sheep and cattle. The great feature of this department is the cataract which gives it its name, 15 miles above the town of Salto, which impedes all navigation of the Upper Uruguay, except in seasons of heavy flood, when small steamers ascend to Uruguayana and San Borja in the Misiones of Brazil. The noise of the Salto Grande can be heard 10 miles off. The Salto Chico, or lesser fall, is only a couple of miles above Salto. The Corralitas rocks, between Salto and Concordia, are very dangerous. Salto is the most enterprising town in the Banda Oriental, after Montevideo; it is picturesquely situated on three hills, well built, clean, bustling, and healthy, with 10,000 inhabitants. EUEAL DEPABTMENTS. 369 'It is the centre of the trade' of -the frontier districts of Brazil- and Misiones, which is carried on by ox-carts ; these bring down about 600 tons of produce monthly and take back an equal amount of imported goods. Attempts were made to do this trade by'small steamers on the Upper Uruguay, but failed. Salto has the honour of having originated the first joint-stock steamboat company in the country, and it was so successful that it paid 71 per cent, in the first year (1860), and still larger dividends after. At present there is great competition, Salto having almost daily steam communication with the lower ports. Steamers are built at Hardy's foundry, Messrs. Hardy and Eibes having six steamers on the river. Mr. Eichard Williams, the oldest resident in Salto, has a saladero for curing mutton on the Morgan system. There is also a tanyard below the town. The best hotel is the Concordia. A granite wharf has been constructed at the watey- : side. The view of the opposite town of Concordia in Entre Eios is pretty. The Comandancia and church are in the Plaza. •The chief business street is Calle Uruguay, in which we find the Maua Bank, the Concordia and Plata hotels, and the best shops. • _Jfeekly mails are delivered at Cuard, Arapey Chico, Sta Eosa, and San Eugenio ; the last two are villages on the Brazilian iWtier, founded in 1852. Salto is 310 miles N.N.W. of Montevideo, 75 N. of Paysandu, 420 E. of the port of Eio Grande on the Atlantic, and 150 S. of Uruguayana on the Upper iCruguay. Salto returns a Senator and 2 Deputies. -The North- Western Eailway, from Salto to Santa Eosa on the Brazilian frontier, now in construction by Messrs. Clark, Punchard and Co., wiU be 110 miles long, with a 7 per cent, guarantee on 10,000Z. a mile, the stock being held mostly in London. It was commenced in August, 1872, and the first ' section is completed to the Arapey, 30 miles, where a bridge of 500 feet crosses the river. The gauge on all railways in this Eepublic is 4 ft. 8^ in. The steepest gradient on the line is 1 in 50 ; the sharpest curve has 1000 yards radius. There are numerous English residents around Salto: Mr. 2 B 370 ' HANDBOOK OP THE EIVBR PLATE. Dickenson at Itapeby, 11 leagues out, Messrs. Buist, Mr.Quigley, Mr. Kandall McDonnell, Messrs. Leighton of Guabiyu, 12 leagues distant, Messrs. Lyde and White at Palomas, on the line of railway, the three brothers Weston at Tangucrupd, Mr. Edgar at Itapeby, Mr. Johnston at Puntas Dayman, Mr. Bird near Salto. Besides the railway engineers at Salto, there are the following English residents: Eev. Mr. Schmidt, Messrs. Armstrong, Joseph Smith, Elsee, Bradley, John Williams, Eeilly, and Conyngham. The railway terminus is at Plaza Libertad, "on the edge of the town, and a tramway is being constructed to connect it with the port. As soon as the railway is completed to Santa Eosa it will do a great carrying traffic for the Brazilian frontier. Santa Bosa is a town of 1500 inhabitants, including Dr. Spence and Mr. Dickenson. PATSANDU. This department is bounded on the north by the Dayman, on the west by the Uruguay, on the south by the Eiq Negro, and on the east by the Salsipuedes. Area, 817 square leagues, or 5,500,000 acres. Population, 30,000. It is beyond donbt the most favoured portion of the Eepublie, and has long been preferred by foreign settlers, who own a number of large estancias, viz. those of the " Bichadero," Young, Wendelstadt, Drysdale, Mohr Bell, Wilson, Owen Lynch, Mrs. Cash, Peile Brothers, Croker, " Pichinango," "Maciel," McEachen, Jack- son, McCoU, Mclntyre, Drabble, Croker, Chapman, Eafael and Shaw, Gale, Brown, " El Perdido," Davie, StirUng, Vemet, Diehl, Usher, Barton, Heber, " Sta Isabel," Wyatt Smith, Gfaynor, Munro, McKinnon, Mundell, &c. There is no part of the Uruguay so well repays the trouble of a visit as this, and the traveller may make Paysandu his head-quarters from which to make excursions of 10 or 20 leagues," and taking in a round of English estancias. Paysandu is reached by steamer in 86 hours from Montevideo. It is a well-built, flourishing place, of 9000 inhabitants. The port is a mile from BUBAL DEPABTMENTS. 371 tiietown, and connected by tramway. The new churcli towers above the rest of the town ; it was used as a fortress by Leandro Gomez, who held the place against immense odds in 1864, till , at last overpowered and put to death with his principal officers. The town suffered so much by the Brazilian bombardment, that it had to be in a great measure rebuilt. The Gefetura is a tasteful edifice with Grecian front, containing the judicial and other public offices, with a prison in the rear. Among the most popular Gefes who have lately held ofice are Colonel Mundell and Captain McEachen ; the former an old Scotch resident of the Queguay, whose life has been a romance of war. Another old resident, Mr. Williams, of Salto, has a saladero outside the town. Don Miguel Horta, agent for the Standard and Vice- , Consul for Spain, is the leading trader of the place, and his shop is a general rendezvous for foreigners. There is a good demand for carpenters, blacksmiths, and bricklayers. The Maua and Italian banks are handsome buildings. The best hotels are La Paz and La France, the former kept by Mme. Sinistri. Mr. Kemsly, the local lawyer, is of English extrac- tion, and most attentive to strangers ; his brother keeps a book- shop. Paysandii was founded in 1772, and takes its name from a missionary (Pay) or Padre Sandii, whose history is now for- gotten. Half a century later came the famous Padre Solano, with whose name are connected some remarkable ruins about a mile from the town. Padre Solano Garcia was a native of Spain, and came to Paysandii, . as Cura, about the year 1826. He built lime- furnaces, cultivated silkworms on a large scale, and raised chickens by steam, on one occasion hatching 1500. After divine service on Sundays he would mount his ox, which he had trained like a horse, with a bridle attached to a ring in his nose ; but what astonished the natives more than all was, that lie actually made a slate roof to his house. He meddled in politics, and was banished to Cuba : on his return he brought a breed of snails, things before unknown. His last scheme was a 2 b 2 372 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. subterranean saladero, inwMch lie constantly employed from 30 to 50 men, under an experienced French master-builder. Paysandii is one of the great centres of the saladero business, over 250,000 head of cattle being MUed annually and exported as jerked beef. There are also several graserias for melting down sheep ; that of Mr. O'Connor, on the Arroyo Sacra, is close to town. The Arroyo San Francisco, 3 leagues out, is a favourite place for pic-nics, but sometimes the woods are in- , fested with robbers. A pleasant excursion may be made by bpat to' the Colon colony in Entre-Eios, nearly opposite. The Maud Bank is managed by Mr. Good. The public schools of' the department (including Fray Bentos) are 8 in number, attended by 476 pupils. Paysandii is 95 leagues N.W. of. Montevideo by land, the distance by water being much greater; it is 25 leagues S. of Salto, 96 W. of Melo, and 30 N. of the Eio Negro. Grossing the Arroyo Sacra, a half- hour's ride through fine rolling scenery, like that of an English park, takes us to Mr. Drysdale's estancia ; the owner has expended over 5O,O00Z. sterling. -Estancia de la Paz, the property of Mr. Eichard Hughes, situated at the junction of the Arroyos Negro and Eabon, comT prises 5^ leagues of land stocked with 100,000 sheep and cattle. Amongst the cattle is a herd of 1200 which have been crossed by short-horn Durhams. The sheep are mestizos, bred from Southdowns, Lincolns, and Negretti rams. The Saladero of Arroyo Negro is well worth a visit. It is 5 leagues from Paysandii. The country abounds in game, and strangers speak in the highest terms of the kindness of Mr. Marion. Southward is the estancia Bella Vista of Messrs. Peile and Dunsmure. Buen Ketiro, the property of Mr. James Mohr Bell, is situated on a bluff overlooking the majestic Uruguay. Adjoining Buen Eetiro is the estancia known as Herrera and BUEAL DEPARTMENTS. 373 Buselienthars ; close to the remains of an old saladero of the last century. The estancia of Messrs. Getting is near the Arroyo Eoman, and crossing the stream we come upon the extensive Iglesias property purchased by Baron Maud : it covers nearly 100,000 acres, but is thinly stocked and settled. There is an abundance of deer and ostriches ; an ostrich egg will make a dinner for eight persons, and sometimes thirty or forty are found in a nest. Baron Maua has a meat-preserving factory here. Ten leagues farther S.E. is the famous German estancia of Messrs. Wendelstadt, with a group of buildings. There is a large tract of ground under agriculture : it is a model estancia, and evinces the outlay of* a very large capital. - There are over 100,000 sheep, some of the prize rams from Germany being *emarkahly fine. It is distant 10 leagues from Pray Bentos. 'The banks of the Eio Negro are thickly wooded, and offer great attractions for shooting and fishing : the river is full of car- ijinchos, a kind of water-hog. Close by is Torre Alta, the 'estancia of Mr. Eobert Yoimg, whose father was the first settler in these camps. Some fifty years ago there were two Scotch carpenters in Buenos Ayres, named Toung and Sterling, who had saved a little money, and hearing that these lands were for sale at ^800 a suerte (about 8d. an acre), came over and settled here. They suffered much during the civil wars, but Ijravely held their ground, and their descendants are now " lords of the manor " ' for leagues around, having sold a portion of their estates at twenty times the original cost. From the "mirador" at Torre Alta a splendid view is obtained: on a clear day Mercedes is visible beyond the Eio Negro. The Bichadero is a joint-stock estancia belonging to share- holders in England ; the land covers 10 square leagues (65,000 .acres), and was purchased from the late Mr. Young, who planted the magnificent quadrangle of ombus that now stands near the house. The stock comprises over 100,000 sheep and horned cattle. The estate is managed by Mr. Theophilus Eicketts, 374 HAKBBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. and ias all the newest appliances and most improved methods for cattle farming and agriculture. From this point the traveller may cross the Eio Negro, through the woods to the pretty town of Mercedes, and then drop down the Eio Negro in the passenger steamer, which meets the one for up-river at the Boca de Tagnary. From Paysandii you may ascend the Uruguay as far as Arroyo Malo, where the steamer calls, and there visit the splendid estate of the Wyatt-Smith family ; then ride over to Las Delicias, the picturesque country-seat of Dr. Wilson; on the banks of the Uruguay. Another route from Paysandu towards Tacuarembo, inland, will take us to the estancias of Mr. -Owen Lynch, Mr. Lietz, and the joint-stock English estancia established by Mr. Webster, The estancia Bsteban Chico covers 2^ square leagues,' and is managed ty Mr. Adolf Lietz for Mr. Herman Eedellien (a German who was for twenty-five years in business in Man- chester, and since 1863 resides on his estate Gebelzig, in Prussia). This estancia was established in 1864:, and has 30,000 fine mestizo sheep. Fray Bentos is a thriving little port, which has recently sprung into notice through the factory of Extractum Camis Liebig. The nature of this beef-extract is already pretty well known : suffice it to say that it contains the soluble matter of thirty times its weight of flesh, and 1 lb. of it if boiled with potatoes will make broth for 128 men. The factory was begun by the late Mr. Giebert in January, 1864. The first shipment arrived in Antwerp in November, 1864, 260 lbs. : it was pronounced by Baron Liebig as superior to his most sanguine expectations. Li 1865 the agent in Europe made a navy contract for 500 lbs. per month, whilst the demand from the general market was 1500 lbs. monthly. A joint-stock company, capital 500,000Z., was formed in London, and Mr. Giebert in 1866 got new machinery made in Scotland. The present great factory was concluded in May, EUEAL DEPARTMENTS. ' 375 1868, and can kill 200,000 head in the season. The net profit , in the year 1872 amounted to 81,188Z. sterling. The factory is sitnated on a high barranca which overlooks the river, about 1 mile south of Fray Bentos. The extent of land fenced in around the factory is 6500 acres. The killingr ground covers 2 acres. Eighty animals per hour is the rate of killing. . The factory is in every respect the foremost one in South America. There are from 600 to 700 hands employed, who with their families number in all 1500 souls. The average consumption of coal is about 6000 tons per . annum, and about 6000 fanegas of salt are used for salting hides. By the old saladero system horned cattle produced only $2^ a head, whereas Mr. Giebert makes them yield ^16 to 820. At the Paris Exhibition, out of 75,000 exhibitors, the only one article which obtained two gold medals was tBu Extraotum Carnis of this factory. At Vienna in 1873 it also obtained the grand gold medal, leaving Australian and others far- behind. Mr. Giebert died recently, but the business r continues. Pray Bentos seems to derive its name from some friar of olden time, but the official designation of the place is Villa Independencia. It is 38 leagues from Buenos Ayres and 20 from Paysandii, steamers passing up and down almost daily; Last year the aggregate of arrivals and sailings from this port was 400 vessels. The statistics show 33 marriages and 88 deaths for the year. The population is about 1500, and there are some old English residents, viz. Mr. Hammett, Mr. James Mooney, Mr. Dungey, Mr. James Oliver, &c. There is an English Mission under the charge of the Eev. Mr. Shells, who has a chapel, parsonage, and school. The department of Paysandii has 1,825,000 sheep, 748,000 homed cattle, and 50,000 horses.* Local revenue, ^86,700 ; property valuation ^13,500,000 ; property tax ^54,000. There * There are 850 estanoias or cattle-farms, and 7500 acres uader tillage. 376 ' HANDBOOK DF THE EIVEE PLATE. / - are 640 licensed- dealers and sliopkeiepers. Weekly mails are sent inland calling at Paso Gutierrez, Algarrobos, Arroyo Grande, Corrales, and Quebraclio. The department returns 1 Senator and 2 Deputies. SORIANO Is bounded on the north by the Eio Negro ; on the east, bj- the Arroyo Grande^ Ojolmi, and Perdido, separating it from San Jose ; on the south, by the Cuchilla Grande and Arroyo Sauce, separating it from Colonia ; and on the west, by the rivet Uruguay. Area, 347 square leagues, or 2,250,000 acres ; popula- tion 23,000. This fertile and picturesque department is watered by the Eio Negro and its aflSuents, the Bequel6, Cololo, Arroyo Grande, Durazno, Pelade, Ojolmi, and Mouzon. The waters of the Eio Negro are full of sarsaparilla, and much reconunended to invalids. Carboniferous strata are found on the banks of the Bequeld and O0I0I6; potter's clay is abundant, and iron is known to exist in large quantities. The woods and rivers are full of game and fish, but also much infested with " matreros," or freebooters. The pastures are very rich ; there are some fine estancias belonging to foreigners, especially that of , Baron Maua, near the town of Mercedes. The Maud estancia has an area of 100 square miles, say 70,000 acres, with a frontage of 7 leagues along the Eio Negro. The stock comprises 100,000 sheep (including Bambouillet and other .fine breeds), 14,000 horned cattle, and 8000 horses. /The estate is furnished with all the latest improvements in farming implements and machinery. The estancia-house is only half a league from Mercedes by water, overtopping the surrounding woods of the Eio Negro. The h6use is said to have cost 10,000/., and the of&cia;l valuation of the estancia is ^447,000, or, about 90,000Z. Another smaller estancia, belonging to Baron Maua, is near San Salvador, comprising 4^ suertes (say 24,000 acres). If we count also the Laureles estancia in Salto and the Eoman in Paysandii, we shall find that Baron Maud's estates in eurAl dbpaijtmbnts. 377 the Eepublic cover aliout 400,000 acres, and are valued at more than 250,000?- sterling. The tpwn of Mercedes was founded in 1771, and is charm- ingly situated on the Rio Negro, which is here a wide aiidi rapid river. It is much frequented in summer as a watering- place, owing to the medicinal properties of the river. There is a^ comfortable hotel, kept by a French Basque. The Maud ; Bank is a fine building ; there is an extensive view from the mirador, following the course of the Negro, which is marked by a wiading belt of foliage down towards its mouth. The river is here 20 feet deep, and may be ascended in boats for a great distance. There is little of interest at Mercedes, unless for bathers or sportsmen. A steamer takes passengers up and down in connection with the Uruguay line. Mercedes is 64 leagues from Montevideo, and mail coaches run daily to and from Santa Lucia railway station. ' , Within a few hours' ride of Mercedes are the fine estanoiais of Vernet, Eaphael, IDrabble, Shaw, &c., all on the most improved ' plans, and in the best part of Banda Oriental. Near Maciel is the Demarchi estancia, once known as Mall- mann's, on which over 50,000Z. were expended. Nueva Alemania, established by Messrs. Prange in the "rincon" between the Arroyo San Salvador and Eiver Uruguay, is one of the largest estates in the Kepublic, covering 9 suertes, or 40,000 acres, and supporting 150,000 sheep, besides horned cattle. The buildings, ofB.ces, puestos, &c., are in the best style ; there is a graseria on the bank of the San Salvador for 'melting down 600 sheep daily. Soriano, from which the department takes its name, is an , almost deserted village at the 'mouth of the Rio Negro, with a few scattered houses, and a church .that reminds us of its ancient' importance. This place wag foimded so far Jback as 1624, by Fray Bernardo de Guzman. It was the first " reduc- tion," or settlement of Indians made by the Spaniards at the Inouth of the Uruguay ; the site was admirably chosen, in the' 378 : HANDBOOE OF THE EIVBB PLATK. midst of luxuriant pastures, and less than 100 miles from Buenos Ayres., Its present population is about 700, Th6' islands about the mouth of the river are often infested with piratess or " matreros." The steamer goes down the Tagnary ; the other mouth, Boca Falsa, is unnavigable. On the opposite side of the river is Eincon de Gallinas, where Flores landed with three men in April, 1863, when he began the series of wars which resulted in Brazilian intervention and the fall of Lopez of Paraguay. San Salvador, also called Dolores, was founded by Fray Bernardo de Guzman at the same time as Soriano, about 3^ leagues S.E. of that " reduction," on an arroyo that has taken the same name, 2 leagues from the coast of Uruguay. It is a thriving town of 1500 inhabitants, with a municipality, justice of peace, curate, post-office, schools, &c. The neighbours dedi- ' cate themselves both to pasture and agriculture, for which the land is well suited. Sebastian Cabot founded a town in this vidinity, of which all trace is now lost. The Cerro Espinillo, above San Salvador, commands a fine view of the TJrugnay; its height being 283 feet. The department of Soriano has 6 schools, attended by 330 children. There are 243 dealers who pay licence. The local revenue is g38,000. Yaluation of property, ^8,500,000. Pro- perty-tax, K32,859. Stock: 2,000,000 sheep, 340,000 cattle, 120,000 horses. The department returns 1 Senator and 2 Deputies. COLONIA Is boimded on the north by the Cuchilla Grande, feoflt Cerros de Ojolmi to the mouth of a little Arroyo called El Sauce, which disembogues into the Uruguay' near Punta Chaparro ; on the east, by the Arroyo Cufre, which descends from the Cuchilla de San Jose to the Eiver Plate ; and on the west and south by the rivers Uruguay and La Plata. Area, 214 square leagues, or 1,500,000 acres ; population, 24,000. This department derives its name from the Colonia del Sacra- BUBAL DEPAKTMBNTS, 379_ mento, established in 1679 by the Portuguese Governor, D. Manuel Lobo, where the city of Colonia now stands. The country is in some farts, sterile and mountainous, but in general possesses splendid pastures, watered by the Tivoras, Las Vaoas, Juan Gonsalez, San Juan, Sauce, Colla, Pichinango, Eosario, and Cufre. It has a coast-line of 40 leagues along the La Plata and Uruguay. In the -vicinity of the Cuchilla Grande, near the ,Cerros de Mahoma and the head-waters of the Pichinango and Colonia, are found scattered samples of auriferous quartz, as well as iron, lead, and marble. At the London Exhibition this' department was represented, among other things, by 53 samples of medicinal plants and 51 of timber, besides wool samples of superior quality. f * , There are some of the finest estancias in the country in this department, viz. : Martin Chico, belonging to Mr. George Bell, slinost opposite Martin Garcia ; Estanzuela, Mr. White's, near Colonia; Pichinango, Mr. Eickett's, on the Arroyo of that name ; Newton's, on the Arroyo Miguelete, near the Cerros de Ban Juan ; Locker's, on the Sarandi, &c. ', The Waldensian and Swiss colonies in the neighbourhood of ifiosario Oriental claim special notice. La 1857 the first Vaudois emigration to Montevideo took place, about 140 leaving Pied- mont, impelled by the scarcity of employment in their native districts. These were followed, next year, by 100 more. Their -gumber now exceeds 1000 sotils. There are three directors resident in Montevideo, namely, the chairman, accountant, and treasurer. A manager resides at the colony, who has 5 capatazes, one for each of the 5 sections. The farms consist of 36 cuadras, or 72 acres each, measuring 300 x 1200 yards. Each lot is composed of 8 farms, 1200 x 24130 yards, with roads on every side, 45 feet wide. The colony has been in every respect a great success. The last call on the shares was paid up in 1863, and the shareholders received in 1869 a dividend of 33 per cent, on the original value of the shares. The company did not pay the passage of any of the settlers, but advanced them land, seed, 380 HANDBOOK OF THE KIVEK PLATE. -ploughs, oxen, miloli cows, &c., the settlers giving the (jompany one-third of their crops for four years in repayment, the land becoming their own at the end of that period. The site pur- chased by the company in 1858 was 4 square leagues (26,000 acres), about 6 miles from the mouth of the Arroyo Bosario, on the coast of the Eiver Plate. In 1861 a square league was sold for the establishment of the adjoining Swiss colony, and in 1863 the Swiss took 1^ league more. The land is fertile, wheat giving from 14 to 20-fold. The village in the colony goes by two names, Eosario Oriental and Villa de La Paz. Almost all the farms are surrounded by ditches. There are about 500,000 poplar trees, and several vineyards, producing a good deal of grapes, and some of the colonists manufacture wine for their own use. There are numerous orchards, particularly of peaches. The manager's of&ce is in the Villa La Paz, where there are, besides, 16 brick houses, among these a steam flour- mill and a windmill. Almost all the families that compose this colony were inhabit- ants of the Alps near the sources of the Po, known as Waldenses, and profess the Evangelical worship. For the support of the clergyman the colonists give him every year two fanegas of wheat for each farm. The Swiss colony, Nueva Helvetia, was established in Sep- tember, 1861. The basis was to dispose of the farms at ^12 per cuadra (25«. an acre), then to assist the colonists by loans of money to build and buy animals and provisions, &c., with a charge of 15 per cent, per annum. The founders of this colony were Messrs. Finder and Sigrist, who spent money too lavishly at the outset, and failed, after having expended 24,000Z. The land was then put up to auction in Montevideo, and fetched from ^4 to ^7 per cuadra (8«. to 14s. an acre). Those who bought are now able to get from ^14 to K30 per cuadra for the same. The present colonists are for the most part good pi^actical farmers, except those who make a living as artisans. Every year new colonists arrive, and they find it difficult to obtain RURAL DEPARTMENTS. 381 good land either here or in the Waldensian colony at less than 508. an acre. Don Juan Viotorica had 2800 cnadras adjoining the Waldenses, which he cut up into farms and sold to the Wsildenses or to new comers in 1869, at an average price of 20s. to 25«. an acre. Don Jnan Eamirez had 20,000 cuadras also close hy, of which he sold in one year (69-70) more than 8000 acres at 18s. to 20s. an acre. It is probahle that in a few years the whole Einoon del Eey, as the district is called, with its ,100,000 acres, will be taken up by colonists. The river Eosario is navigable for 12 miles, having 10 to 12 feet of water. The Buenos Ayres and Montevideo Telegraph Company has a station at the colony. Colonia del Sacramento is older than Montevideo, and was for many years a bone of contention between the Spaniards and Portuguese. Sebastian Cabot called the place San Gabriel; but it seems Juan Diez de Solis was here before him, and left two of his caravels anchored under shelter of the island (still called San Gabriel) while he proceeded to explore the Uruguay in a smaller craft. The city was founded by Manuel de Lobo, Portu- .guese Governor, in 1679, and has since undergone strange Imciseitudes. It was occupied by the English in 1807, and is •reckoned the best military position in the Eiver Plate. Its glory, however, has passed away, and the stranger walks through half-deserted streets and ruined buildings that tell of former bombardments. The present population hardly exceeds 1000. During the recent civil wars the place has suffered much. At intervals an Irishwoman, named Kelly (now dead), used to act as port captain, consul, postmaster, &o., and her hotel was a favourite resort for sportsmen. There is plenty of shooting about here, and a little steamer plies every day to and from Buenos Ayres in about four hours. The submarine cable of the Buenos Ayres and Montevideo Telegraph Company starts from here to Punta Lara, on the Buenos Ayres coast, being 28 miles long; it was laid down in October, 1866. The port of Colonia, according to Admiral Lobo, is the safest in the Eiver Plate, 382 HANDBOOK OF THE BITEB PLATE. being protected by the islands San Gabriel, FaraUon, and Lopez. In 1869 Capt. Benjamin D. Manton opeijed his submarine rail- way and graving-dock, where vessels of 1000 tons are overhauled and repaired with the utmost ease, instead of having to send them, as before, to Eio Janeiro. It is proposed to enlarge the works, so as to accommodate vessels of 2000 tons. In the first four months after opening the dock there were no fewer than 13 steamers (besides sailing-vessels) overhauled, some of them over 500 tons. Messrs. Waring Brothers are constructing a railway, branching off from the Central Uruguay at Santa Lucia, to connect Colonia and Higueritas with Montevideo, the Govern- ment guarantee being 7 per cent, on 10,000Z. a mile. There are two good inns at Colonia, one kept by Mr. Murtagh, the other by a French Basque. There are a church, schools, Comandancia, and a lighthouse ; this last is 120 feet high, with a light revolv- ing every three minutes, and visible 10 or 1 2 miles ; it was put up in 1857. Whenever the shipping and town of Buenos Ayres are visible, it is a sign of bad weather; the shipping sometimes" appear upside down in the sky, like the Sicilian Fata Morgana., Colonia is 46 leagues W. of Montevideo and 10 N.E. of Buenos Ayres. From Colonia some pleasant excursions may be made inland to the Swiss and Italian colonies, 30 miles distant; to the estanzuela of Mr. White, a kind of English model-farm ; to Mr. iPetty's ; to Mr. Newton's, on the Miguelete ; in all which places will be found a hospitable welcome and plenty of game. If preferable the traveller can procure a boat and visit the remarkable promontories of stone called Pipas and Barriles - (8 miles east), from their resemblance to wine-butts ; or, going north, steer for Martin Garcia (30 miles), which is termed the Gibraltar of the Eiver Plate. Some remarkable places are passed on the coast : Punta de Homos, where the Marquis of Casa-Tilly landed in 1777, when he destroyed Colonia. Cerros de San Juan (488 feet high), where Trala founded a colony on St. John's day, 1552, but which was razed by the Indians ; SURAL DEPAETMBNTS. 383 Martin Chico, where the discoverer, Juan Diaz'' de Solis, was , murdered by the- Charruas. 'i Martin Garcia is a granite rock, almost circular, about 2 mile^ in diotuliference, and 215 feet high, with the shape of a truncated cone. A smair landing-place is found on the north side. The island was a convict depot under the Spaniards, It is now ; fortified, and has a small Argentine garrison, besides some (fishermen, and labourers employed in quarrying stone for the street .pavement of Buenos Ayres. The Argentine Eepublic took Martin Garcia from the Banda Oriental, to which it natu- rally belongs, but by the treaty of 1856 it is stipulated the * .position Shall be declared neutral in case of war. Nevertheless, as it is the key of the Parana and Uruguay, this stipulation would probably in such event be forgotten. The island takes its name from a pilot or boatswain of Solis, who fell overboard and was drowned here. A few shrubs alone grow on the arid •sides. Hell Channel, between the island and the mainland, 2^ miles wide, has a dreadful current. Abreast of the island, Westward, is the Parana-Mini, and farther south-west another mouth of the Parana called Las Palmas. Large vessels have to go by the Boca de Guazii, which exposes them for 2 miles tq a fire froni the batteries of the island. •^fiCJarmelo, otherwise called Las Vacas, 13 miles N. of Martin Gfarcia, is a small port of increasing importance, at the mouth of the Arroyo de Las Vacas, into which flows the Arroyo Juan PQUsalez, a little above the town. It was founded in 1816. The surrounding camps are of remarkable fertility. Among the EngHsh settlers are Messrs. Mc Vicar, Ower, and others. A small steamer usually plies to Colonia and Higueritas. The. . Guazii mouth of the Parand, is exactly opposite Carmelo. : There are mails from Montevideo once a week. The population of the place is about 800; there are schools, post of&ce, comi- . saria, and some good shops ; the country is thickly wooded. A ■'couple of leagues farther north is Las Vivoras, where a chapel was built about seventy years ago, but the place is now deserted. 384 HAITOBOOK OP THE KIVEE PLATE. Funta Gorda, 20 miles N.N.W.:6f Martin Garcia, is the point where the Uruguay pours its waters into the Eivqr Plate at the rate, of 150,000 cubic feet per second, according to Mr. Bateman's measurement, whereas the Paran6 gives 520,000: per second, minimum rate. The Uruguay is here a mile across, with a deep-water channel of 86 feet. Punta Gorda is 94 feet high and covered with wood. Five miles higher up is Punta Chaparro, after which the river widens to 5 or 6 miles in ascending towards Fray Bentos. From Punta Chaparro to San Fernando (in Buenos Ayres) is the delta of the Parana. Sigueritas, or Nueva Palmyra, is midway between Points Gorda and Chaparro ; it was founded in 1829, and has 1000 inhabitants ; it is a place of some trade in small coasting craft, with moles for landing and shipping goods. Mr. Gazzan is an old American resident. The Uruguay steamers going up or down touch here almost daily. The best inn is that kept by D. Antonio Berardo. Messrs. Halbach, Fox, and MUler have properties hereabout. Stock of the department : 1,500,000 sheep, 270,000 catoe, and, 130,000 horses. Property valuation, ^5,000,000 ; property tax, ^20,000. Local revenue, ^36,000. There are 364 licensed shopkeepers. The public schools, 6 in number, are attended by 344 pupils. The department returns 1 Senator and 2 Deputies. ( 385 ) CHAPTEE XXV. PAEAGUAT. This beautiful and ill-fated country is in the heart of the continent, its capital city being 1000 miles from the mouth of the Eiver Plate, thei only outlet connecting with the exterior world and civilization. The prolonged war of 1865-69 com- pletely destroyed the Paraguayan people, of which only some scattered remnants now survive, forming a kind of Eepublic tmder the protection of Brazil. It is bounded on the north by the Eio Apa, which separates it from Brazil, onthe west by the river Paraguay, on the south and east by the Upper Parana ; having an area of 90,000 square miles, between the 22nd and 27th degrees, of south latitude, and the S 5th and 58th of west longitude. The inhabited and cultivated portion never exceeded 20,000 square miles ; and although a census taken. in 1857 pretended to give 1,337,449 Wabitants, the real population never could have reached more than 500,000 souls, and at present hardly exceeds 100,000. The munber of male' inhabitants who perished in the war is computed at 100,000, and a still larger number of women and cMldren died of exposure and starvation in the woods, the survivors in many cases having lived for months on bitter oranges. The Cordillera of Amanbay bisects the country, the eastern half being almost uninhabited, and the various towns and villages lying between this range and the Eiver Paraguay. The Yerbales or mite fields are principally found along the- base of the Amanbay, and on the opposite side of this ridge are the sources of five rivers which fejU into the Upper' Parana. The Tibiquari is the most important of seven Paraguayan 2 38B HANDBOOK OP THE BIVEE PLATE. rivers tributary to the Eio Paraguay; and Lopez had sent to England to build light-draught steamers for navigating it, as the districts on the northern bank are some o£ the richest in Paraguay. The climate is warm and dry, the soil prolific in all fruits and products of the tropical or temperate zones. The hottest months are November, December, and January, when the medium temperature is 90° in the shade, but it sometimes rises to 100°; the average in the winter months, May and June, is 50°, but falling at rare intervals to 40°. It is in the same latitude as Eio Janeiro, but free from yellow fever, or any other epidemics, and Dr. Stewart considers it one of the healthiest climates in the world. In the absence of sea- breezes — for it is 500 miles from the nearest point of the Atlantic, and 900 miles from the Pacific — the temperature is influenced by north and south winds, the former having, a relaxing tendency, the latter being a precursor of rain and storms. The appearance of the country is undulating, the vegetation luxuriant ; and stately forests, noble rivers, lofty peaks clad to the summit, and reflected in expansive lakes, give a charm to the scene that neither the bad roads, want of conveyances, nor other drawbacks can in the least diminish. Tigers, pumas, wild boars, rattlesnakes, tiger-cats, foxes, apes, monkeys, &o,, are to be met with in the woods, offering fine field for the sportsman or naturalist. The lakes and rivers swarm with crocodiles and lizards ; the former more properly of the cayman species, often 25 feet long, the lizards from 6 to 8 feet in length. Azara counts 448 kinds of birds, the prettiest being the viudita, or widow, no bigger than a canary. Bees and cochineal are common, and the locust pays periodical visits, sometimes devastating a whole district. The mineral resources have never been sufficiently explored. Just before the war Lopez brought out Mr. Twite, an eminent geologist, and other scientific men from Europe. Mr. Twite PARAGUAY. 387 found precious metals in different places, and iron in great abundance. An old Swedish doctor of the time of Francia discovered medicinal herbs of great value, and Bompland made an extensive collection of flora, which was sent home to the French Government. Forests cover a large portion of the country, and Du Graty enumerates 51 different kinds of timber, especially suited for building, some as hard as iron, and of such specific gravity that they sink when thrown into water ; these kinds are much used in Buenos Ayres by builders. Copper is found in some places, iron in many parts; the iron of Caapucii and Quiquio yields from 30 to 36 per cent, pure iron, and the iron-works of Ibicuy, which employed over 100 opera- tives, were useful to Lopez during the war. Still more useful would have been salt, the want pf which cost Paraguay thou- sands of brave soldiers, as their constitution was so enfeebled tlmt their wounds would not heal. Government monopolies greatly interfered with trade imder the Lopefe regime ; the chief products were bought by govern- ment agents, and all freedom of trade was unknown. Never- theless the commerce of Paraguay showed a wonderful develop- ment in the ten years succeeding the fall of Eosas in Buenos Ayres, who had kept Paraguay hermetically shut in by closing. the rivers. The following returns for the decade show aa increase equal to seven-fold up to 1860 : — Imports. Exports. 1851 230,917 .. .. 347,616. 1855 431,835 .. .. 1,005,900 1859 1,539,648 .. .. 2,199,678 1860 885,841 .. .. 1,693,904 The excess of exports over imports in ten years amounted to> .83,850,014 (the dollar being about 3s.) or 577,502?. sterling,, which was expended in the arsenal, railway iron, arms, and educating youths in .|3urope; The Custom duties in I860' produced ^289,653 (say 44,000?.), of which two-thirds were on 2o 2. 388 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVER PLATE, imported goods and one-tMrd on exported produce, the former paying 20 per cent., the latter 5 per cent. , ad valorem. Yerba belonged to the Government and paid no duty, but gold or silver coin even introduced by travellers paid 10 per ceni leaving the country. Duties were paid and transactions made on the principle of one-third in gold or silver, and two-thirds in paper-dollars, which^ fluctuated from about 30 to 36 pence English. The trade returns for 1860, when Charles Antonio Lopez, commonly called Lopez I., was at the zenith of his power, showed how little Paraguay depended on the eisterior world for the necessities or comforts of life, her exports aniounting to double her imports, viz. : — Impoets. Silks $31,285 WooUens 133,656 Linens and cottons 340,053 Hardware ... ,. 29,851 Wines and spirits 79,016 Groceries .. 155,665 Haberdashery and shoes 56,353 / Miscellaneous .. 59,962 885,841 ^ , Exports. Yerba-mate $1,093,860 ' Tobacco 292,833 Dry hides 187,787 Tannedditto 22,858 Bark for tanning 22,474 Oranges .. 23,465 Timber .. .. 14,799 Miscellaneous 35,828 1,693,904 ' The territorial division under the Lopez dynasty consisted of twenty departments, viz. : PAKAGUAT. 389 Asuncion. Guazucua. Villa Eica., San Salvtidor. Desmochados. Cuazapd. Concepoion. Igatimi. Mieiones. San Pedro. Cupuguaty. Yuti. Kosario. Estanislao. Bobi. Oliva. San Joaquin. Eucamaeion. Villafrauca. Cordillera. Each had a town or village with Ipcal authorities, such as Oomandante, Justice of Peace, and Curate : the police adminis- tration was the most perfect imaginable, and a system of espionage pervaded the whole country. Crime was so rare that murders or robberies were unknown, and the traveller might go unarmed through the wildest forests of the interior. There were no public conveyances, and it was difficult to travel unless by order of Government, when changes of horses were obtained everywhere, and the Justice of Peade provided such hospitality as is foimd in other countries in inns. When Lopez II. succeeded to power the standing army, on jeace footing, was 12,000 men, including horse, foot, and artillery, besides a reserve or militia of 46,000 well-disciplined men. The army and fortifications counted 200 pieces of cannon, some of the heaviest having been made at the Asuncion arsenal. The soldiers were often employed as navvies ; at one time 6,000 were at work on the railway to Villa Eica. Notwithstanding the military conscription the agriculture of the country was well attended to, the women taking a great part in the labours of the field. The quantity of land under tillage in 1863 (one year before the war) was stated in official registers at 28,000,000 "linos" or 650,000 acres, viz. : Indian corn 240,000 acres. Mandioca 110,000 „ Beans 75,000 „ Cotton 32,000 „ Tobacco 23,000 „ Sugar-cane 25,000 „ Mani 11,000 „ Eioe, vegetables, &e 34,000 „ 550,000 „ 390 HANDBOOK or THE BIVEE PLATE. There were very few landed proprietors, three-fotuths of the country being Government lands, Mostly confiscated from the Jesuit Missions in the last century, when the Fathers were expelled : the Government granted the lands at a nominal rent to the cultivators, and small "copueras" of maize, mandioca, tobacco, and cotton were met with every mile along the high- roads during the prosperous times before the war. After the fall of Lopez a survey was made by the new Government in 1870, when the public lands were found to comprise : — Sq. Leagues. Sq. Miles. Arable lands 7,100 .. .. 42,600 Mountains and forests .. .. 4,500 .. .. 27,000 Yerbales 840 .. .. 5,040 Public lands 12,440 .. .. 74,640 Private ditto 2,560 .. .. 15,360 15,000 .. .. 90,000 The Paraguayan league being only 5,000 varas or 2^ miles, the square league is only equal to 6 square miles. The arable lands are still devoted chiefly to agriculture, although the want of hands is such that the best districts are not half cultivated. The tobacco plantations look very pretty when nearly ripe : the plants are put down in September, like cabbages, and trans- planted in November : the gathering commences in January, the leaves are hung out to dry, until the " acopiador " or broker comes round to buy. The best kinds of tobacco are known as Canela and Pard, the former often fetching J dollar per lb. The cigars called Peti-Hobi and Peti-Pard are largely exported, especially by Messrs. Zambonini, who have a large factory near Asuncion and an agency in Buenos Ayres. The home con- sumption of tobacco is large, as men, women, and children all smoke. It gives three crops a year: the home consumption used to be estimated at 15,000,000 lbs. annually, besides 6,000,000 lbs. exported. At the Paris Exhibition of 1855 a gold PABAGTTAT. 391 medal was awarded to this tobacco. The statistics for 1870, show 3,500,000 lbs. exported, representing a value of 8150,000. Maize and mandiooa form the chief support of the in- habitants, who raise little or no wheat. Maize is a sure and prolific crop, giving often 150 for one, and mandioca is as gpneral as potatoes in Ireland or macaroni in Italy, the people being eminently vegetarians, and using a bread called " ohipa " of oily flavour but not disagreeable. Sugar-cane might be cul- tivated more largely and successfully if there were machinery : a considerable quantity of molasses is produced, and Paraguayan cafia is a liqueur equal to Chartreuse or Eosolio. Eiee is grown for home consumption, similar to Carolina, and yielding as much as 250 for one. Mani is a kind of nut, esteemed a delicacy all over South America. The forests have numerous varieties of stately trees, most useful for building, the samples at the Paris Exhibition of 1855 attracting much notice : there are also several Mnds of bark suitable for tanningi The forest that extends to Paraguari to Yaguaron arid Ita covers several square miles, and is only about 30 miles from Asuncion, with good roads and easy access to Ytagai, whence there is a railway to the city. The orange plantations are so nimierous all over the country that the fruit has oply a nominal value. The yerbales, which cover about 3,000,000 acres, are far in the interior, and were worked for many years by the Indians of the Jesuits, through whom the yerba-mate became known all over the continent, and "used instead of tea or coffee. It is con- sidered wholesome if taken in moderation and without milk or sugar, being usually sucked through a' silver tube from a small gourd which gives its name to the beverage. Of late years the use of mto has much diminished in Buenos Ayres. Lopez used to pay the " acopiadores " ^1 50 cents, for 25 lbs., and sell it to exporters at double that price, but it has since risen to 2s. per lb. in Buenos Ayres. The exportation in 1870 is said to have reached 4,500,000 lbs. (probably an exaggeration). 392 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVBB PLATE. representing a value of 290,000Z. sterling. The exported value under Lopez never exceeded 160,000Z. per annum (in 1860), when the -quantity exported was 4,463,425 lbs. Asuncion, the capital and centre of commerce, is situated on the left or eastern bank of the river Paraguay, in 25° 16' 29" south lat. and 57° 42' 42" west long., at an elevation of 182 feet over the city of Buenos Ajnres, from which it is distant 970 miles. It was founded on the feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin, August 15th, 1536, by Commander Ayolas at the head of 300 Spaniards. It is therefore much older than Buenos Ayres, but preserves to-day much of its mediseval character, and during the last three centuries its population has perhaps never exceeded 30,000 souls, although Du Graty estimated it in 1860 at 48,000 ; at present it is barely half this number. The situation is picturesque, about 50 feet over the river, which is here 605 yards across: the depth of the Eio Paraguay varies from 20 to 72 feet, with a current of 2 nules per hour, and Commander Page registered a fall of 13J feet between October and February. The arsenal is the first part of the ciiy which is seen on approach ; it was built for Lopez by Messrs. Whitehead and Grant in 1861, and for some time occupied 300 men, including the saw-mill attached. There were 30 English mechanics, besides a few French or Germans, the rest being natives: in three years they constructed seven mail-steamers which used to ply to Montevideo, besides cannon, stoves, bells, &c. The public' buildings are very fine, especially the Government- house, cathedral, railway-station, Lopez's palace, custom-house, theatre, &c. The streets are, as in all Spanish towns, chess- board fashion, the city being cut into blocks of 80 yards square, with streets 15 yards wide, often impassable from sand. There is a tramway to the river-side, owned by an English merchant of Buenos Ayres. The market-place is an interesting sight at day- break, crowded with country women selling their tobacco, fruits, &c. The shops are poor, but some beautiful gold purse rings are made, like those in China, which the traveller should buy. PABAGUAT. 393 The arcades around the market are used for shops. The houses aie not flat roofed, but mostly tiled, as was common in the seventeenth century, with wide corridors. The railway from Asuncion traverses a most delightful country for 40 miles, as far as Paraguari. On leaving the city the first object to attract notice is the house wherein the tyrant Prancia lived and died. Close by is the quinta which belonged to the unfortunate Dr. Berjes, minister of foreign affairs, shot by Lopez ; here was a fine collection of exotics and rare plants, and at the foot of the cliff overlooking the river is the Chorro waterfall, a favourite bathing-place. The Trinidad church marks the place where old Lopez was buried, and after crossing Campo Grande we find ourselves amid mandioca plantations, succeeded by orange and palm groves as we approach Luque, 10- miles from town. Soon we get sight of the Cordillera, clad to the summits in luxuriant vegetation, and now bursts upon the traveller's view the magnificent lake of Tpacaray (covering an area of 40 square miles), which begins at the village of Aregua. Now the line skirts the lake for some miles, passing the glorious peak of Ytagud, at the foot of which was the summer-palace of Mrs. Lynch during the Lopez regime. The "cajon," or valley ef Pirayu, offers a charming spectacle, wooded Mils rising up on either side, and appearing to close it in at the further end, where the Cerro Mbatovi lifts its head in the clear sky. There is a belief among the country people that St. Thomas the apostle dwelt in a cave in this mountain, where a small chapel now exists. We pass Cerro Leon, where Lopez - had his head-quarters when preparing for the war in 1865, that was to cost him life and Sceptre on the field of Aquidaban four years later, and to leave his country a wilderness. His father began this railway in 1859, under the engineers Burrell, Valpy, and Thompson, who made it as far as Paraguari, when it was stopped, midway to Villa Eica, by the war. Paraguari is a small village, only remarkable as one of the great Jesuit establishments in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries ; they 394 HANDBOOK OF THE ElVEB PLATE. had farms herewitL. 30,000 iead of cattle, and the old registers show the names of English or Irish fothers. Near Paraguari is the Cerro Porteno, where a Buenos Ayrean army under General Belgrano was defeated in 1811. The route of the railway to Villa Rica would pass Gerro Acay, but the line will hardly be prolonged unless purchased from Government by an English company. Villa Bica was a place of considerable trade and population, and famous for the manufacture of cigars, being situated in the midst of a fertile coimtry between the rivers Tibiquary and Tibiquary-Mini, the former navigable for small vessels. It stands 323 feet above Asuncion, from which it is distant 108 miles. The situation is picturesque, surrounded by tobacco and mandioca farms, with hills running east and west covered with noble forests of morosimo, tatayba, and other woods, like mahogany, very suitable for furniture. The old Jesuit church and college were destroyed by Francia. The population was about 2000, and it ranked as the second town in Paraguay. Pilar, formerly known as Nembucu, is in front of the Bermejo, a little above Humayta, where Lopez had his great fortress. It was the only part in Eranoia's ,time open to com- merce ; and no strangers were allowed to penetrate farther into Paraguay. It stands about 20 feet above the river, the houses being mostly roofed with the trunks of palm trees, divided and the pith taken out, which lasts for over 30 years as an excellent - roof. Villa Franca, 59 miles above Pilar, is the chief town of the district of that name, which is separated from that of Pilar by the river Tibiquary. The lands of Villa Eranca are among the best in the country. Oliva, 12 miles above Villa Eranca, is another " chef du ' departement," but only a village, remarkable for the fine forests of lapacho, quebracho, urunday, catigua,. &c., on the opposite banks of, the Chaco side. Lope^ had " guardias" every league PAEAGUAT, 395 along the Paraguayan bank, to watch Indian marauders from the Chaco, the river varying from 600 to 1000 yards in width. Yilleta is a pleasant village 62 miles above Oliva, commanding the approach to the capital, this being the most difficult pass in the river. A few miles lower, the worst part of the pass is called 'Angostura, and here Colonel Thompson held at bay for some ' months the whole fleet and array of the Allies. Between Villeta and the capital is the magnificent peak of Lambare, a conical hill of basaltic formation, wooded to the summit, rising abruptly from the river's edge to a height of 312 feet, and called after a ^ valiant Cacique who fell fighting against the S|)anish invaders, and is supposed to be buried at the base. ■ Villa Occidental, about 10 miles above Asuncion, on the op- iposite side of the river, was founded by Lopez in 1854 with a number of French settlers, who gave it the name of Nouvelle Bordeaux, being situate just above the delta where the Pilcomayo falls into the Paraguay. The first settlers attempted to escape, but most of them either perished in the Chaco or were re- i captured and imprisoned, until the survivors were released at the instance of the French Government. After the faU of Lopez the place was occupied by the Argentine Government and de- dared capital of the Chaco territory, with a Governor and mili- tary garrison. There are about 600 inhabitants, some of whom raise oranges and sugar-cane, and Messrs. Gebeler have estab- lished a steam saw-mill. The Pilcomayo was four times partially explored,- by Father Patino in 1721, by Casales in 1735, by CastaSares in 1741, by Thompson and Magarinos in 1844. It is still imperfectly known, the latest exploration in these regions being that of Captain Cmiey's party, who in 1873, after four months of hardship, reached Santa Cruz de la Sierra, the nearest town in Bolivia ; both Cilley and Thompson were Americans, but the latter is not the same as the defender of Angostura, who is an Englishman. The Pilco- 396 HANDBOOK OP THE BIVBE PLATE. mayo rises in ike Andes north-west of Potosi, and after receiving the Caohimayo and other tributaries descends in a south-east direction to the river Paraguay, where it debouches almost in front of Asuncion. Romrio is a village about 90 miles above Asuncion, situated in a charming country of woods, guyayava groves, yarumus, &c. Near this was the great estate of Oaprepomo, belonging to Lopez, and the country abounds with game. k San Pedro, just above the confluence of the Jejuy and Para- guay ; the former rises in the Paraguayan cordiUera, traverses the Yerbales, and affords easy freight for the yerba. The rivers here abound in pacii and other fine fish. I Goncepcion, about 200 miles above Asuncion, was a flourish- ing town, deriving much importance feom the yerbales, 70 mUes inland. Some 30 miles higher is the mouth of the Aquidaban, on the banks of which stream Lopez fell in March, 1870. Salvadoc, 70 miles above Concepcion, is the last town of any importance in Paraguay before reaching the Brazilian frontier, about 100 miles higher. It is 520 miles from the confluence of the Paraguay and Paran4 at the Tres Bocas, and Captain Page found 15 feet of water all the way. The inhabitants manufac- ture ropes from the Caraguatay filaments, of the aloe tribe. In the time of the Jesuits they wove it into cloth, and Father Pobrizhoffer mentions that the stockings made of its thread were sent to France and pronounced superior in strength and softness to silk. • There is no town or place of note on the Upper Parand, except Itapica, formerly one of the most flourishing missions, but since used only for a military outpost on the Argentine frontier of Misiones.' The remains are seen of a stone church, once rich with statues of the twelve apostles in silver and fine wood-carving, which was first stripped by Francia, and pulled down by Lopez in 1846 ; the dimensions are stated by Captain Page at 320 feet long by 80 wide. The old Jesuit college is now used by the Comandante of the district, as found also in many PAEAGTTAT. 397 of the other ruined missions through Paraguay, the buildings being uniformly as perfect as when occupied by the Fathers. The first Jesuit settlement was made' by Fathers Field and Ortega, in 1557, and in seventy years the missions extended along tte Upper Uruguay. But the Paulistas, having commenced a slaye trade, made descents upon the peaceful Misioneros, and Captain Page says that 60,000 Indians were sold in Eio Janeiro marfeet-place, in two years (1628-30). Some of the Jesuits perished in defending their missions. Father Montoya col- lected 12,000 survivors of the Guayra missions and moved down to Loreto on the left bank of the Paran4, abandoning San Jose, Los Angelos, San Pedro, San Pablo, San Cristobal, Jesus-Maria, Sant' Ana, San Joaquin, Santa Theresa, San Carlos, Apostoles, and San Nicolas, where 100,000 converted Indians had perished \or been carried oS captives by the Paulistas. A new Ghristain Eepuhlic was now established out of reach of the Mameluco slave-hunters. Each mission was built in a uniform style, with a great plaza in the centre, and here were erected the church, college, arsenal, stores, workshops of carpenters, smiths and weavers, all under the Fathers' immediate care. Every Monday the male inhabitants went through drill, infantry and cavalry prizes being given for the best musketeer marksmen. ,: Church ceremonies were regularly performed every day, the cMldren beginning with morning-prayer, followed at sunrise by Mass, at which the whole population attended. Baptisms took place in the afternoon ; vespers were sung every evening as a close of the day's work. Marriages were celebrated on all holidays or festivals. Charlevoix describes the processions on grand fete days as magnificent. The Indians were excellent musicians and singers. The dress of both sexes was of native cotton, the men wearing shirts and short trousers, the women caps and loose gowns. The schools and workshops were admir- ably managed, and the wood-carving of the Misioneros of olden time still excites the wonder of the traveller. The language spoken was Guarani, and printing-of&ces were established at 398 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. Santa Maria and San Javier in the seventeentli and eighteenth century, from which issued many works, the following being stUl extant. 4 ' Temporal and Eternal,' by P. Nieremberg, 1705. ' Jesuit's Manual for Paraguay,' 1724. ' Guarani Dictionary,' 1724. ' Guarani Catechism,' 1724. 'Sermons and Examples,' by Tapaguay (probably a native Jesuit), 1724. Two of the above are in possession of the priest at Villa Bica. The total population of the Jesuit reductions in 1740 was ascertained to be over 140,000 souls. In 1767 the jealousy of the Spanish Government decreed the expulsion of the Fathers, who offered not the least resistance. In 1801 a census was made by Soria, and the survivors of the thirty missions only numbered 43,639, having lost two-thirds of their population during thirty-four years. Many of them had taken to the woods ; the plantations were abandoned ; cattle, sheep, and horses were destroyed, and the traveller cannot but view with regret the crumbling remains of the fine monuments that once were the glory of a happy and progressive people under the Jesuit Eepublic. An interval of about forty years occurred from the expulsion of the Fathers to the overthrow of the Spanish authorities, and then began the iron rule of Dr. Gaspar Francia. At the death of Francia, the supreme authority was seized by Carlos Antonio Lopez, the latter on his death-bed transmitting the power to his son, Francisco Solano, commonly known as Marshal Lopez. The Government was nominally a republic, but as absolute as under the tyrant Francia. Nevertheless, during twenty years, great progress was made, and if the ambition of Lopez II. had not blinded him the country would have rapidly risen to importance. Not content with the title of Marshal President, he aimed at proclaming himself Emperor, and conquering adjacent territories. PAEAGUAT. 399 In December, 1864, he made a descent on the Brazilian province of Mai to Grosso, meeting little or no resistance. In April, 1865, he invaded the Argentine province of Corrientes, and shortly afterwards marched 10,000 men into Eio Grande. Neither the Argentines nor Brazilians were prepared for this sudden aggression, and as Lopez had over 60,000 well-equipped troops, he might have over-ran half the continent, if his energy were equal to his ambition. But he did not head the army in person, and his generals allowed the allies to collect armies while the Paraguayan columns remained inactive. Thus one Paraguayan corps d'armee was cut to pieces at Yatay, in Misiones, while another under Estigarribia surrendered in TJruguayana to the Emperor of Brazil commanding in per- son. These disasters were followed by the destruction of the Paraguayan fleet at Eiachuelo, in a battle of twelve hours' dura- tion, with a superior force of Brazilian iron-clads (June 1866), The evacuation of Corrientes followed, Lopez now assuming a defensive warfare, and assembling all his strength between the fortress of Humayta and the Tres Bocas. After some dreadful battles, such as the Boqueron, in which some days of fierce fighting resulted in a victory claimed by both sides, the Allies, under General Mitre, attempted a combined attack by land and water on the position of Curupaity (Sept. 1866), and were defeated with such slaughter that the campaign was on the point of being abandoned. Lopez refused very advantageous terms, although disease and privation had begun to make havoc among his gallant troops ; he still held conmiand of the river, Humaytd remaining impregnable. In February, 1868, a great flood enabled the Brazilian iron-clads to pass the fortress, which was soon afterwards evacuated as untenable. This decided the fate of the war, although Lopez continued to maintain a desperate defence. Angostura, with a small garrison under Colonel Thompson, held out for several months, keeping at bay the whole allied army and fleet, tUl forced by hunger to surrender, with all the honours of war. After a useless and protracted 400 HANDBOOK OF THE EIVEE PLATE. struggle in the mountains of the interior, Lopez was at last overtaken and killed at Aquidaban, in March 1870. Since the fall of Lopez the name of Paraguay has only been heard in connection with two London loans, and sk disastrous attempt to establish an English colony. The first loan, in 1871, was for 1,000,000?. sterling ; the second, in 1872, for 2,000,000Z. bearing 8 per cent, nominal interest, the scrip falling after a time to 25. The proceeds were to go for pubUc works, espe- cially prolonging the railway to Villa Eica, which has not been done. Messrs. Eobinson and Fleming got up the expedition of what were called "Lincolnshire farmers," about 800 people of all kinds, of whom 160 died of privation and hardship at ltd and Paraguay, two were murdered by natives, and the rest, after a few months, were removed to- Buenos Ayres at the expense, and by the charitable efforts, of H.M. Charge d' Affaires, Mr. F. St. John, the St. Patrick's Association, and the foreign bankers and merchants of Buenos Ayres. The internal condition of the country has been a hopeless state of anarchy. During the first year of President Jovel- lano's being in office, there were three revolutions, the rebels shutting up the Government in Asuncion. At last, natives and foreigners were so wearied of this state of things, that they begged the Brazilian garrison to afford some protection. The Brazilian troops marched out (April, 1874) and beat the rebels, since which time Paraguay is virtually under a Brazilian pro- .tectorate, and enjoys some peace. ( 401 ) CHAPTEE XXVI. THE FALKLAND ISLANDS. These islands properly belong to Buenos Ayres, being 2 SO miles from the coast of Patagonia and 300 in an E.N.E. direc- tion from the Straits of Magellan; they form the only considerable cluster in the South Atlantic, having a total area of 7600 square miles. They were discovered by Davis in 1592, visited by Hawkins two years later, and successively held by French and Spaniards. After the Independence the Govern- ment of Buenos Ayres established a colony there in 1820, under the late Mr. Vernet; but some American cruisers burnt the settlement in 1831, and in 1833 the British Government seized the islands for the purpose of offering a refuge to whalers or to vessels that might have sustained injuries in doubling Cape Horn ; they form at present the most southerly colony owned by Britain, and enjoy a most healthy climate. East Falkland has an area of 2,000,000 acres. West Falkland 1,500,000 acres ; besides these two principal islands there are 100 small ones. Port Stanley is much resorted to by vessels rounding Cape Horn, and is the seat of government and trade; there are several sheep-farmers in East and West Falkland, the total population in 1871 being 812 souls, but now about 1000, The highest peak is Mount Adam, 2315 feet over the sea; and another is called Mount Viale, after an Italian of that name in Buenos Ayres, who gave up his own life in the loss of the 'America' (December 25th, 1871), to save Madame M, Del Pont. The Government is vested in a Governor and Executive Council, appointed by the Crown, the present governor. Colonel Daroy, being an officer of long and hazardous services on the 2 D 402 HANDBOOK OP THE RIVER PLATE. West Coast of Africa. The exports, cMefly wool, are alinost double the imports, the returns for 1872 being — Imports £24,737 Exports 38,353 Eevenue and Expenditure 12,000 There is a regular mail service by means of the pilot-boat, ' Foam,' to and from Montevideo, by which communication is kept up with England; and at intervals British war-vessels lying in the Eiver Plate visit the FaUdands. We are indebted to Henry Byng, Esq., Colonial Secretary, for the following notes on the condition and prospects of these islands. Up to the year 1867 sheep and cattle farming had been confined to the East Island, and one or two of the small islands adjacent to the West Falklands. The principal sheep-farms were those belonging to the Falkland Islands Company; and others, on a smaller scale, were owned by Capt. Packe at , Port Fitzroy, Mr. Dean on Pebble Island, Mr. Littlejohn on New Island, and the South American Missionary Society, at their station on Keppel Island. The chief owners of cattle are the Falkland Islands Company, Captain Packe, Mr. Bonner, and Don Andrez Petaluga ; but as the outlet for beef was small, being confined to the supply of the limited market at Stanley, the business was not found to be lucrative. Cattle are decreas- ing in numbers rapidly, and the opinion has gained ground that sheep properly looked after are the most payable investment to be had. In the year 1867 the first settlement was made on the West Falkland Island, and so rapidly was the land taken up that the whole was absorbed in the course of the next two years. At the same time large additional tracts of land have been occupied in the East Island, and but little of any consequence on eith^ of the larger islands is now available. ' ' The chief drawback experienced by sheep-farmer£ has been TB;I! FALKLAND ISLANDS. 403 the scab ; but it is, fortunately, so far exterminated that several estancias are perfectly free from it, while in others it has been to a great extent put down. The grasses of the Falklands possess the most remarkable fattening properties as far as sheep are concerned ; a wether in ordinary condition seldom weighs less than 70 lbs. dressed for market, while 100 lbs. and even llGlbs. are no uncommon weight. Wool grows well, and in some flocks exceeds an average of 8 lbs. per sheep ; it has a tendency to grow coarse, which is the effect of the peculiar climate. The principal stockholders are the Falkland Islands Com- pany, who have, since their establishment in the year 1802, spared no expense to develop the resources of the islands ; their chief settlement is . the camp at Darwin Harbour, on the isthmus which divides their freehold of Lafonia (so called from one of the principal founders of the Company, the late Samuel Lafone, Esq., of Montevideo) from the rest of the island, and 70 miles distant from Stanley. Their sheep land extends to within 15 miles of Stanley, along the northern shore of Choiseul Sound, and by Mount Pleasant and Port Titzroy on the one side, and by the southern shore of Choiseul Sound as far as Low Bay on the other. Their sheep number between '50,000 and 60,000, and are of the Cheviot breed, with a slight admixture of South American, of which the original flock con- sists. Their last clip of grease wool realized lid. and llJtZ. per lb., and as a combing wool has for some seasons been much approved of ijn Bradford. - The Company has also " rodeos " of tame cattle, amounting to over 4000, and on their freeholds wild cattle, variously esti- mated in number from 15,000 to 25,000, which from their hides form a source of income. There are no other farms of any extent as yet in either island, although the West bids fair to show a good account of wool in the course of a year or two. 2 D 2 404 HANDBOOK OP THE EIVBR PLATE. LANDHOLDERS. East Falelanss. Falkland Islands : — acres. Freehold 800,000 Leasehold 132,000 932,000 Captain E. C. Packe 74,000 Mr. John Bonner 61^000 Don Andrez Petaluga 98,000 Mr. E. Greenshields 42,000 Don Jose Llamoso 12,000 Messrs. Sharp and Eobson 24,000 „ Felton Brothers 32,000 „ E. and G.Cobb Lively Island. Mr. C. H. Williams Speedwell Island. West Falklands. Messrs. Packe Brothers .. .. 118,180 „ Baillon and Stickuey 148,790 „ Bertrand and Holmested 171,120 Mr. J. L. Waldron 103,920 „ J. MoClymont 100,000 „ C. H. Williams 124,680 „ W. D. Binney 21,0p0 „ G. M. Dean 90,400 Messrs. J. M. Dean and Son Pebble Island. „ Bertrand and Holmested . . . . New Island. South American Missionary Society . . Keppel Island. GOVBENMENT OFFICIALS. Colonel George D'Arcy . . . . Governor, I Colonial Secretary, Shipping Master, and Postmaster. Edward Eoger Griffith . . . . Stipendiary Magistrate'. Arthur Bailey Sarveyor^General. Horace N. Watts, M.D Colonial Surgeon. Charles Conyngham Turpin . . Clerk of the Courts. George Travis Collector of Customs. Eev. Charles BuU, M.A. . . Colonial Chaplain. Harbour Master Charles Melville. Lighthouse Keeper .. .. William Brown. Assistant ditto George Biggs. Eight Eev. Waite Hockin Stirling, D.D., Bishop. MiLITABT. Lieut. I. Drury Eoyal Marines. John Fisher, E.N Garrison Surgeon. ( 405 ) APPENDIX. HISTORICAL EECOUD. 1515. River Plate discovered by Juan Diaz de Soils. 1527. Setastian Cabot explores the Paranii and" Uruguay. 1530. Buenos Ayres founded, under invocation of the Holy Trinity. 1531. The fort and settlement destroyed by the Indians. 1535. Second foundation by Pedro de Mendoza : also destroyed. 1537. Asuncion del Paraguay founded by Ayola. 1544. Irak greatly extends the Spanish dominions. ' 1553. Santiago del Bstero founded by Aguirre. 1555. Arrival of the first bishop, Francisco la Torre. 1559. Garcia de Mendoza founds Mendoza and San Juan. 1565. Villaroel founds Tucuman. 1573. Cabrera founds Cordova. 1573. Juan de Garay founds Santa Fi city. 1580. He marks out the city of Buenos Ayres, June 11th. 1582. Lerma founds Salta. 1588. Corrientes founded by Alonzo de Vera. 1591. Velazco foTinds Eioja, and, in 1592, Jujuy. . 1596. Loyola founds San Luis. 1609. Jesuit missions of Paraguay founded by Padres Mazeta and Cataldini. 1622. Jesuit missions along the Upper Uruguay. 1628. Paulista Indians carry off 60,000 captives from Misiones. 1680. Colonia founded by the Portuguese. 1726. Montevideo founded by Zavala, Governor of Buenos Ayres. 1730. Spain cedes Misiones to Portugal ; Indian settlements broken up. 1767. Expulsion of the Jesuits ; destruction of the Misiones. 1776. Viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres created, under Pedro de Zeballos. 1782. Census : Buenos Ayres ' territory, 170,832 inhabitants ; and Paraguay, 97,480. 1806. English invasion undei: General Beresford, who capitulates. 4.06 APPENDIX. 1807. Second invasion, under General Whitelooke, who also capitulates. 1808. Liniers named Viceroy. 1810. Eevolution of Buenos Ayres, May 25th. 1811. Belgrano invades Paraguay, and capitulates. 1812. He beats the Spaniards at Tucuman and Salta. 1814. Spanish garrison expelled from Montevideo. 1815. Campaign of Artigas in Banda Oriental. 1816. Declaration of Argentine Independence, at Tucuman, July 9th. 1818. General San. Martin beats the Spaniards at Maypu, and eman- cipates Chile. 1821. He liberates Peru, and enters Lima in triumph. 1821. Banda Oriental annexed to Brazil. 1825. Revolution of Lavalleja and thirty-two others, against Brazil. 1826. Buenos Ayres declares war against Brazil. 1826. Admiral Brown chastises the Brazilians. 1826. Eivadavia introduces many reforms. 1827. Alvear beats the Brazilians at Ituzaingo. 1828. Brazil gives up Banda Oriental, and makes peace. 1828. England guarantee the independence of Banda Oriental. 1830 to 1852 Civil wars, and tyranny of Eosas. 1852. Eosas overthrown by TJrquiza. ■ 1853. Urquiza expelled from Buenos Ayres. 1856. Introduction of gas. 1857. Western Eailway inaugurated ; the first in these countries. 1859. Battle of Cepeda : Buenos Ayres capitulates. 1860. Buenos Ayres re-enters the Argentine Confederation. 1861. Dreadful earthquake at Mendoza. 1861. Battle of Pa von : gained by General Mitre. 1862. General Mitre unanimously elected President. 1863. Plores invades the Banda Oriental. 1864. Brazil invades the Banda Oriental. 1865. Paraguay declares war. 1866. The Allied army (Argentines, Braziliaus, and Orientals) invade Paraguay. 1867. Siege of Humaitd. 1868. General Plores murdered at Montevideo. 1868. Don Domingo P. Sarmiento elected President. 1869. First Census of Argentine Eepublic taken (1,836,490 pop.). 1870. Conclusion of Paraguayan war ; death of Lopez. 1870. Assassination of General Urquiza. 1871. Plague at Buenos Ayres; Public Works Loan (6,000,000Z.). APPENDIX. 407 1872. Eailways, telegraphs, and free libraries through the interior. ' 1873. City of Buenos Ayres improvements commenced. 1874. President Sarmiento succeeded by President Avellaneda. WOBKS PUBLISHED ON THE EIVEB PLATE. Schmidel's Conquest of La Plata, in 1534. Nuremberg, 1559. Alvar Nunez's Commentaries. Madrid, 1560. History of Paraguay and La Plata. By Buy Diaz de Guzman. 1573. Jesuit Missions. By Oharleroix and Guevara. Eelation of E. M.'s Voyage to Buenos Ayres, &c. London, 1716. Muraturi's Missions. (English translation.) London, 1759. Father Faulkner's Patagonia, in Latin. England, 1774. Letters from Paraguay. By John C. Davie. London, 1805. Travels from Buenos Ayres to Lima, &c. By A. Z. Helms, London, 1806. Vice-Eoyalty of Buenos Ayres. By Samuel H. Wilcocke. London, 1807. Whitelocke's Expedition. By an Officer. London, 1808. Eio de la Plata. By Felix Azara; Paris, 1809. Dean Fimes's History of Paraguay, &c. Buenos Ayres, 1816. Provinces of La Plata. By D. Vicente Pazos. New York, 1819. Captain Head's Eide Across the Pampas. London, 1828. Humboldt's Travels in South America. Price, 12s. 6d^ London, 1831. The Chaco and Eio Vermejo. By Arenales. Buenos Ayres, 1833. Castlenau's Expedition to South America. Paris, 1836. Plata — Staaten. By Kerst. Berlin. Eobertson's Letters on Paraguay. Edinburgh, 1838. Pedro de Angelis's Eecords of Buenos Ayres. Buenos Ayres, 1839. Eobertson's Prancia's Eeign of Terror. London, 1840. Id,, Letters on South America. London, 1843. Eesearohes by Fitzroy and Darwin. London, 1844. M'Canu's Adventures in the Paiapas. Dublin, 1846. Colonel King's Souvenirs of Buenos Ayres. New York, 1847. Buenos Ayres, from the Conquest. By Sir W. Parish. London, 1852. Map of the Eepublic of Uruguay. By General Eeyes. Montevideo, 1853. Mansfield's Paraguay and Eiver Plate. London, 1854. La Province de Buenos Ayres. Par Heusser et Claraz. Zurich, 1854. Commander Page's La Plata. New York, 1856 ; new ed., 1873. Celebridades Argentinas. Buenos Ayres^ 1859. La Confederation Argentine. By M. de Moussy. Paris, 1860. The Argentine Eepublic. By Colonel Du Graty. Brussels, 1861. 408 APPENDIX. Eepublio of Paraguay. By the same. , Brussels, 1862. M'OoU's Guide to Montevideo'. London, 1862. Hinchcliif s South American Sketches. London, 1862. Handbook to the Eiver Plate. By M. G. & E. T. Mullhall. 1863. Rickard's Journey Across the Andes. London, 1863. Historia Argentina. By Dominguez. . Buenos Ayres, 1864. Burmeister's Travels in £he Provinces. Berlin, 1864. Alberdi on the Argentine Eepublio. Paris, 1864. Pillado's Guia de Buenos Ayres. Buenos Ayres, 1864. 'Hutchinson's Argentine Gleanings. London, 1866. PalUSre's Eiver Plate Album. 52 plates. Buenos Ayres, 1866. An Account of Paraguay. By Oh. Quentin. London, 1866. Map of Province of Buenos Ayres. Topographical Department. 1866. States of the Eiver Plate. By W. Latham. Price, 12s. London, 1867. The Argentine Alps. By Boss Johnston. London, 1867. Modem Paraguay. By M. Pouoel. Paris, 1867. Map of City of Buenos Ayres. Topographical Department. 1^68. Eandom Sketches of Buenos Ayres. Edinburgh, 1868. Life in the Argentine Eepublic. By D. P. Sarmiento. Price, 8s. New York, 1868. Hadfleld's Visit to La Plata. Price, 10s. Qd. London, 1868. Hutchinson's Parani and La Plata. London, 1869. Burton's Battlefields of Paraguay. London, 1869. Col. Thomson's War in Paraguay. London, 1869. Mastermann's Seven Eventful Years in Paraguay. London, 1870. Washburn's History of Paraguay. New York, 1871. Musters At Home with the Patagonians. London, 1872. Beck Bernard's Emigrant Guide to La Plata. Berne, 1874. Eickard's Eesources of the Argentine Eepublic. London, 1871. Seymour's Notes on Camp Life. London, 1869. Guinnard's Three Years' Captivity in Patagonia. Paris, 1870. Aeqentinb Trade Ebpoet for 1878. Imports. Exports. England 19,344,143 France 18,255,138 Belgium .. .. 2,967,586 United States ' .. 5,167,616 Italy 3,784,384 9,894,007 8,677,819 13,891,508 3,032,945 1,487,925 Carried forward 49,518,867 36,984,204 APPENDIX. 409 Imports. s Brought forward 49,518,867 Spain 2,952,600 Chile 1,444,182 Brazil .. ..' .. 2,968,953 Uruguay .. .. 2,735,299 Germany .. .. 3,228,015 Holland .. .. 1,611,616 Other Countries .. 1,999,341 $66,458,873 Exports. 36,984,204 1,231,697 2,365,475 769,464 992,949 449,597 226,204 2,100,515 $45,122,105 (These figures may be reduced to £ sterling by dividing by 5.) If we take the years 1872 and 1873 together, we find the exports about 20 per cent, less than imports in the same period, viz. : — Exports of 1872 cmd 1873. 363,725,000 lbs. of wool 181,300,000 lbs. of jerked beef 205,902,000 lbs. of tallow . . . 128,070,000 lbs. of sheepskins 5,661,000 03C and cow hides Horse-hides, bones, metals, &c. Imports for 2 years Excess of imports ; Value. S 38,530,000 4,120,000 12,872,000 9,916,000 12,322,090 12,322,000 99,002,000 121,093,900 $22,091,000 By comparing the import returns of 1873 with those of 1870, we find that the imports from England and France have increased 50 per cent., from United States 80, from Grermany 110, from Belgium. 150, fi-om Italy 120, from Spain 35, from Holland 30 per cent. There is a decline of 10 per cent, in Brazilian merchandise. Geowth of Expoets in 20 Yeaes (1853-1873). 1853. I860. 1870. 1872. Salted 03c-hides .. 400,831 420,525 774,806 •> 1,824,895 , Dried „ .. 604,868 1,241,968 3,121,758 Horse-hides .. .. 129,905 278,613 102,250 208,509 Wool .. ..bales 20,514 42,275 160,369 210,000 Sheepskins .. „ 1,398 10,715 67,294 49,021 Jerked beef .. qq. 275,000 424,839 647,532 Value in £Bt £1,400,000 £4,240,000 £8,200,000 £9,100,000 410 APPENDIX. Growth of Kbvenue in 10 teaks (compared with Chile). Argentine. Chilian. « - % 1863 .. . 6,478,683 6,700,659 1864 .. . 7,005,328 6,574,918 1865 .. . 8,295,071 7,301,043 1866 .. . 9,568,554 6,197,111 1867 .. . 12,046,287 .. ' 9,756,838 1868 .. . 12,496,126 10,694,974 1869 .. . 12,676,680 11,484,806 1870 .. . 14,833,905 11,537,781 1871 .. . 12,682,155 11,681,032 1872 .. . 18,172,379 13,843,000 1873 .. . 20,160,380 15,392,557 Progeess during 5 tears of Presidbnt Saemiento's Administeation. President Sarmiento in opening Congress for the last time in May 1874 reviewed the progress made by the country since he ascended to power in 1868. Trade and revenue doubled, public schools quadrupled, 5000 . miles of telegraphs constructed, 500 toiiles of railway completed, immi- gration risen to 100,000 souls yearly, and many other features of national development. The administration will also be remembered for havingHaken the first census of the Kepublio, held an international Exhibition at Cordoba, established an astronomical observatory, opened 140 free libraries in the Provinces, and contracted a loan of 6,OOO,O00Z. sterling for public works. For the first time in history the Argentine Government saw its stock reach par on the London Exchange; and - each year President Sarmiento opened Congress he had to announce that the increase of revenue exceeded the estimates. In 1873 the receipts reached 20,160,000|f, say 4,120,000Z. sterling, or 50,000Z. over the estimates last year for Canada, which has just double our population. The increase of 1873 over the preceding year was 2,000,000, equal to 11 per cent., and the excess of receipts over esti- mates 1,000,000, while the ordinary expenditure was 3,500,000 less ; all these flattering results were neutralized by the Entre Eios rebellion which cost 16,000,000 dollars between the two revolts of 1870 and 1873. APPENDIX. 411 1 Foreign Capital in Public Debts and Joint-Stock Companies , IN THE EivBR Plate. Argentine Government. ^ ^ Eiestra Loan, 1865 2,138,000 Public Works, 1871 5,71&,100 Hard Dollar Loan, 1872 1,224,000 Total due on 1st of March 9,079,100 jBtteraos Ayres Government. Loan, 6 per cent. 1824 819,400 „ 3 „ „ 888,200 „ 6 „ 1870 1,001,800 „ 6 „ 1873 2,040,800 Total due on 1st of March 4,750,200 Entre Sios Government. Loan, 7 per cent. 1872 214,900 Santa Fe. ' Loan, 7 per cent. 1874 300,000 Bepublic Uruguay. Mont, 6 per cent. 1864 640,000 1871 3,360,000 Total due on 1st of March 4,000,700 JParagiiay. 8 per cent. Public Works, 1871 . . . . 973,400 8 „ „ 1872 .. .. 1,958,800 Total due on 1st of March 2,932,200 Total National debts Eiver Plate £21,277,100 412 APPENDIX. Prom the same authentic source we take the capitals of foreign companies in the Eiver Plate. / £ Buenos Ayres and Ensenada Railway 350,000 Buenos Ayres Great Southern 997,200 „ Dolores Extension 332,800 „ 6 per cent. Debenture Stock 119,300 Central Argentine .. .. 1,300,000 „ 7 per cent. Bonds J 364,500 , Centl-al Uruguay 7 „ „ 300,000 „ 7 „ Preference Shares .. .. 942,000 East Ai-gentine 7 „ ' 640,000 Northern of Buenos Ayres 140,000 „ „ Deferred 55,000 Ordinary 40,000 North- West Montevideo 7 per cent. Mort 600,000'. London and River Plate Bank 200,000 „ „ „ New Issue 400,000 Mercantile Bank 399,600 GermanBank 200,000 Buenos Ayres National Tramway 140,000 Central Argentine Land Company 130,000 City Buenos Ayres Tramway 350,000 Liebig's Meat Factory 357,200 Montevideo Gas Company .. .. ." 500,000 Anglo-Argentine Mining Company 60,000 Platino-Brazilian Company 90,100 „ „ ■ First Mort 100,000 City Buenos Ayres Tramway Debenture Stock . . . . 95,000 Uruguay and Higueritas 7 per cent. Mort ' . . 600,000 North- West of Montevideo Mort 300,000 10,092,700 National debts Eiver Plate 21,277,100 Total nies foreign capital in National debt and Compa-'* i on Mai-ch 1st, 1874 j~dl,d69,800 Moneys, Weights, Mbasuees, and Distances. Bv,enos Ayres. In Buenos Ayres the basis of the currency is the paper dollar or " peso," worth 2i^ English, 25 " pesos " being equal to a hard dollar, such as used in North America. In all fexchange operations, and the APPENDIX. 413 like, only specie is used, the sovereign being taken for |4: 90c. silver, or for $122i paper. The gold coins of .England, North America, France, ,gpain, and Brazil are a legal tender throughout the Eepublio, at the following rates : — Twenty francs Chilian condor SUver. $ 4-90 3-90 9-25 Paper. $ 122J 97J 231i Twenty milreis . . United States eagle Doubloon Silver. Paper. $ $ 11-00 275 10-00 250 16-00 400 In the upper provinces almost all transactions are earned on in Bolivian silver, the value of which slightly fluctuates at times. - The Bolivian dollar averages about 3s. English, or twenty-one to the doubloon. The weights and measures are — 1 vara, equal to 34 English inches. 1 cuadi-a „ .. 150 varas. 40 cuadras „ . . 1 league. 6000 varas „ . . 1 „ 1 sq. league, equal to 6500 Eng. acres. 1 arrobc, equal to .. 25 lbs. 4arrobes „ .. 1 quintal. 20 quintals „ 1 ton. 80 arrobes „ \ .. 1 „ 00 lbs. ' „ .. 1 „ In calculating distances, twelve cuadras may be estimated as an English mile. The superficial ouadra covers about four acres, and is also called a "manzana": there are 1600 "manzanas" in a square .'league of land. A "suerte" of estancia usually measures li leagues long, by half a league wide, comprising 27,000,000 square varas : a square league of land contains 36,000,000 varas. Montevideo. Smce the redemption of the paper money (11th November 1872), the currency is fixed on the basis of a dollar worth 52i. English, or 4 per cent, more than the North American dollar. Mexican dollar Montevidean $. 0-96 Sovereign Montevidean ^ 4-70 The weights and measures are the same as in Buenos Ayres ; but the cuadras are only 100 varas square, so that a league is said to be 60 cuadras long, and a superficial league to contain 3600 manzanas : of course, the league is exactly the same length as in Buenos Ayres. ili APPENDIX, Paragiiay. The table of weights is the same as in Buenos Ayres. The land measure is very different — 1 league, equal to . . 5000 varas. I 1 manzana, equal to . . 1| Eng. acres. 1 sq. league „ 3600 manzanas. | 1 «q. league „ 4500 „ Table of DisTAircES from Buenos Atees. Spanish Leagues. London 2500 Lisbon 2200 Cape Verde 1550 Pernambuco .. .. 850 Bahia 700 Rio Janeiro 450 New York 2300 St. Thomas 1800 Para 1250 Cape San Roque . . Rio Grapde do Sul Montevideo .. Bahia Blanoa Welsh Colony Falkland Islands . . Magellan's Straits Cape Horn . . Spanish Leagues. 920 150 40 200 350 450 600 680 Rosario (S. FS) Santa ¥6 Parana .. Biver Parana. 75 117 185 La Paz . . Goya Corrientes 160 210 260 Tres Bocas . . Humaita Rio Vermejo, mouth Asuncion River Paraguay. 265 275 278 340 Pan de Azucar Fort Coimbra Curumb^ Cuyaba . . 460 510 555 640 Paso la Patria Falls of Apip^ Upper Parana. 270 I Tranquera de Iioreto . . 315 310 I Salto de Guayra .. .. 450 Eiver Uruguay. Fray Bentos.. Rio Negro, mouth Gualeguaychii Concepcion .. Paysandu 20 40 50 70 80 Salto .. . Santa Rosa . Uruguayana San Borja . 110 140 160 *.,20|^ APPENDIX. 415 Upper Provinces. Spanish Frayle Muerto Eii'Cuarto .. Cordoba San Luis Mendoza The Andes . . San Juan 100 130 150 170 225 240 245 Rioja Catamarca . . Tucuman Santiago del Estero Salta Jujuy .. .. .. Oran, Rio Vermejo SpaniBh Leagues. 250 260 ; 270 220 310 330 350 CaSuelas San Vicente . . Lobos Navarro .. Guardia Honte Kancbos, . . Gbascomus 25 de Mayo . . Las'Flores Dolores ., Ensenada Province of Biienos Ayres. (Soutk) 11 10 18 17 19 20 24 35 32 39 10 Tuyu Tandil Azul Mar Chiquita . . Cape Corrientes Laguna los Padres . Kepochea Tres Arroyos . . Bahia Blanca . . 19 46 60 55 66 78 74 80 98 115 (North.) Pilar .. dapilla -. . Zarate . . Giles .. San Antonio Baradero San Pedro Obligado . . Bamallo .. 10 14 16 20 21 27 31 35 44 San Nicolas . . Arroyo Medio Arrecifes Carmen de Areco . . Salto Pergamino Eojas Fort Melincue' 45 46 33 27 34 42 43 Lujan Mercedes Chivilcoy (West.) 13 20 31 39 Chacabuco Junin Nueve de Julio Saladillo 36 45 48 33 416 APPENDIX. Comparative Table of Time. When it is noon at Buenos Ayres it is at — Hours. Montevideo 12 Bio Janeiro 12 Pernambuco 1 Valparaiso 11 New York .. ■ 10 Cape de Verde Islands . . . . 2 London 3 Paris 4 St. Petersburg 5 Berlin 4 Constantinople 5 Borne 4 Lisbon 2 Calcutta 9 Pekin 11 Sydney ■ .. 1 Cape of Good Hope 5 Minutes. Scqonds. 8 43 P.M. 42 57 „ 34 9 » 7 50 a.m. 58 35 „ 43 32 P.M. 53 13 „ - 2 57 „ 54 50 „ 47 11 „ 29 46 „ 43 25 „ 17 2 „ 46 57 „ 39 31 „ 58 30 A.M. 7 31 P,M. Land Law at Buenos Ayees. Government price. Is. per acre. The law passed on 3rd August, 1871, contains the following clauses : — 1. Public lands on the frontier to he put iip for public auction twice a yearj viz. January and June, after three months' notice in the journals. 2. Lots to be of 8 square leagues, say 13,300 acres. 3. Minimum price as follows : — 5001. per league outside the frontier of 1858, and not contained in the partidos hereinafter named. 580Z. per league in Lincoln and Nueve de JuUo on the western frontier, and Tres Arroyos on the seaboard. 650Z. per league in Necoohea on the seaboard, and Bragado Junin and Eojas on the west and north frontier. 4. Fractions under 2 square leagues will be sold to private parties at the above rates, without auction. 5. Payment in all cases to he made in eight years in this manner : — 10 per cent, in cash on receiving deed of sale. 90 per cent, in eight yearly instalments, free of interest. 6. A year's grace allowed for any instalment, charging 1 per cent. APPENDIX. 417 interest per month. ; if unsatisfied after twelve months the land to he again put up to apction. 7. If the Indians carry off the cattle the Governmeilt will ^Uow double .the term for the instalments, and without interesL 8. If lands were previously occupied the buyer must take improve- ments at a valuation. , 9. The districts of Bahia Blanoa and Patagones are excluded from the present laws. , ' 10. If the purchaser wish to pay ca^h instead of taking eight years for payment he will be allowed discount and 6 per cent, per annum (reducmg the price by about 150Z. per square league). ■ ■ Note. — The price therefore (at eight years) of the above lands is from lid. to 2s. per acre, or paying cash say 13d upwards. The distance from Buenos Ayres city varies from 50 to 100 leagues. TARIFFS AT BUENOS ATKES. , Post Office. Letters by British mail-steamer leaving Buenos Ayres on the 9th and 15th of each month pay Is. postage either here or in England, but must have an Argentine stamp of 5 cents. By French mail-steamer twice a month, 8i. and Argentine stamp. By Southampton steamer leaving Buenos Ayres 30th, or other steamer than the four mentioned above, the English postage is only erf. '.' liewspalpers go free through South America, but the British post office charges \d. Eegistering a letter costs 25 cents extra. i: Unclaimed letters are advertised in lists hung round the courtyard. Hackney Coaches. '■> Fromi one part to another of the city, $20. By the hour, iirst hour, $25, afterwards, $20, WJialeboats. Imier roads, $60, outer, $150, if party does not exceed five persons ; if more, each person pays $10 and $25 respectively. If carts are used, $30, if row-boats, $10. Street Porters. Any distance not exceeding 10 squares, $10, and $1 per square extra for each trunk. ' Livery Stahles. Horses may be had for $50 a day, but on Sundays $100. ■2 B 418 APPENDIX, Telegraph Messages. Through the Argentine provinces 25 cents, to Montevideo 1 hard dollar, to Chile 3 dollars. I ■ ABGENTINB AGENTS ABKOAD. His Excellency D. Mariano Balcarce, Minister Plenipotentiary at Paris and London. His Excellency D. Manuel Garcia, Minister Plenipotentiary at Wash- ington. His Excellency D. Felix Frias, Minister Plenipotentiary in Chile. His Excellency D. Luis L. Domingu'ez, Minister Plenipotentiary in Peru. His Excellency Dr. Uriburu, Minister Plenipotentiary in Bolivia. FOREIGN MINISTERS AT BTTBNOS ATRBS. His Excellency Hon. Lionel Sackville West, Great Britain and Ireland. His Excellency M. Ducros Auhert, France. His Excellency M. Le Maistre, Germany. His Excellency Baron Araguaya (Magalhaes), Brazil. His Excellency M. Blest Gana, Chile. His Excellency General Oshorn, United States. His Excellency M. Hofer von Hohenfels, Austria and Hungary. His Excellency Dr. Irigoyen, Peru. ARGENTINE CUSTOMS DIJTIBS. 1. Books, printing materials, and paper, plants, fruits, ice, tobacco for sheep, gold and silverj also articles for church use, scientific instruments, machinery for steamboats or new industries, furniture and effect? of immigrants are imported duty free. 2. Ploughs, coal, iron, lumber, salt, silk, vprought gold or silver, steam thrashers or reapers pay 15 per cent. 3. Precious stones pay 8 pei- cent. 4. Ail other articles pay 25 per cent, ad valorem. 5. Hides, wool, sheepskin, beef, tallow, feathers, and bone-ash pay 6 per cent, ad valorem export duty. 6. All other articles are exported duty free. 7. Allowance of 10 per cent, for leakage of wines, &c. from Europe. ENGLISH CLEKGT IN THE EIVBE PLATE. *Eev. Canon Dillon, Irish Chaplain General, Buenos Ayres. Eev. Dr. Smith, Church of England, Chaplain, Buenos Ayres. APPENDIX. 419 - • Eev. James Smith, Soots' Cliuroh, Buenos Ayres. Eev. J. Jackson, American Methodist Church, Buenos Ayres. Eev. N. Lett, Assistant English Chaplain, Buenos Ayres. *Eev. Samuel O'Eeilly, Irish Chaplain, Luian. *Eev. M. Lynch, Irish Chaplain, Mercedes. *Eev. Michael Leahy, Irish Chaplain, Carmen de Areoo. *Eev. John Leahy, Irish Chaplain, Eojas. *Eev. John Plannery, Irish Chaplain, San Nicolas. *Eev. J. MuUady, Irish Chaplain, San Antonio. *Eev. P. Grennan, Irish Chaplain, Capilla del Seiion. *EeT. James Curran, Irish Chaplain, Lohos. *Eev. Monsigndr Curley, Irish Chaplain, Chascomus. Eev. J. Gehbie, Scotch Chaplain, San Vicente. Eev. M. Ferguson, Scottish Chaplain, Chascomus. Eev. J. Hoskins, English Chaplain, Montevideo. Eev. J. K. Law, Assistant Chaplain, Montevideo. Eev. Mr. Sheils, Assistant Chaplain, Entre Eios. Eev. Mr. Coombe, Assistant Chaplain, Eosario. *Eev. Father Burke, Santo Domingo, Buenos Ayres, *Eev. Father Davis, Irish Chaplain, Montevideo. *Eev. J. MacNamara, Irish College, Mercedes. •Eev. Dr. Miller, Parish Chaplain, Belgrano. %* Those marked with an ast&risk are Catholic clergymen. Salaries of Aeqbntine Officials (reduced to English Money), Per Ami. £ .. , 4000 2000 President Vice-President Cabinet Minister . . .. 1800 Sub-Secretary .. .. '500 Ai-chbishop 1000 Bishop 700 Canon ' 220 FederalJudge .. .. 1700 Sectional „ ■ ., .. 600-1200 Brigadier-General .. ' 650 General 600 Senator 700 Deputy .. .. .. 700 Postmaster-General . . 7,50 Inspector of Telegraphs , 750 Chief of Eogin. Depart. 1000 Chief of Depart. Agrio. Envoy Extraordinary . . Secretary of Legation . . Receiver of Customs . . Captain of Port . . Admiral Colonel Lieut.-Colonel Major .. , Captain Lieutenant Rector of Nat. CoUegi . . Professor .. .. ' .. 210-270 Navy Captain . . . , 240 Army Surgeon . , . . 600 Port Doctor .. 250-600 2 £ 2 Per Ann. t, 600- 2400 750 1000 1000 500 480 280 200 150 100 320 420 APPENDIX, Buenos Ayres Tramways. The tramway traffic in 1873 was as follows : — Passengers. Miles ran. Journeys City of Buenos Ayres . . 5,161,074 616,427 179,636 Central (9 months) . . 1,807,570 273,580 54,716 Argentine 2,221,041 (500,000) 60,491 Belgrano (J year) 770,444 185,474 37,302 Boca (9 montlis) , , 1,043,926 232,855 39,745 National 1,146,607 . 359,175 65,879 Proportion for months | , gg^ggg omitted ) 354,452 50,000 13,838,271 2,521,463 487,770 Men. Coaches. Horses. City of Buenos Ayres . . 273 46 700 Lacroze Central 60 18 199 Argentine 137 33 370 Belgrano 107 23 350 Boca National 94 17 275 Municipality of Buenos Ayres. The Mumoipal receipts in 1873 were.: — $m/c. Weights and licences 3,476,485 Street lighting ■ 3,534,481 Markets 1,096,000 Funerals and graves 533,430 Mataderos .. , .. 367,499 Coach-stands 530,500 Fines, fees, &c 989,405 $ 10,527,800 The expenditure was as follows : — i Hospitals 2,066,358 Scavenger service 3,359,940 Free schools 1,714,916 Prisons, health comm., &c 2,812,909 Public works and paving , , . . 3,434,262 Lighting, &c 3,105,015 $ 16,493,400 APPENDIX. 421 There are 326 billiard-saloons, 77 ball-courts, 2 cock-pits, 384 carriages, 210 hack do., 132 tilburies, 3751 carts, and 7248 dogs paying licence. Central Prisons, Buenos Ayres. There were 631 delinquents admitted during the year : — 252 Argentines. 154 Italians. 90 Spaniards. 45 Freijch. 30 Montevideans, 14 English. 36 various. 631 There were 287 liberated, and 318 condemned, to hard labour or sent to penal stations. No fewer than 226 were cases of attempt to kill or of actual murder, and 227 of robbery. Table of Wages at Buenos Ayres. Farm-servants Gardeners . . Coachmen . . Men cooks . . Bakers .. Shopmen ^ .. Apothecaries Teachers Housemaids ., Nurses or cooks £ £ 30 to 50, with board. 40 „ 100 40 „ 60 40 „ 120 40 „ 70 20 „ 200 80 „ 150 60 „ 100 30 „ 60 40 „ 80 Operatives per Day. Carpenters .. . .. 6 to 12, without board Blacksmiths . .. 6 „ 10 Stone-cutters . .. 7 „ 10 Lithographers . .. 7 „ 20 Watchmakers . .. 8 „ 11 Tailors .. . . .. 7 „ 11 Saddlers . .. 6 „ 10 Bookbinders . .. 5 „ 10 Painters . .. 5„ 8 Shoemakers . .. 4 .. 7 422 APPENDIX. Immigration. , The returns' for 1873, as compared with previous years, show thus : — Immigrants. 1868 29,234 37,934 41,058 1869 , 1870 1871 21,758 41,002 1872 1873 79,712 Total ia 6 years onalities was :- •• 250,698 Tlie proportion of nati 1872. 18>3. Italians 56 pel' cent. 56 per cent. Spaniards . . 17 » .. 19 „ French 17 jj 16 „ British .. .. 4 3 „ Germans 3 )» 5 „ Various i2 100 )» 1 » 100 The sexes were : — Malep. Females. In 1872 ,', 80 to 20 „ 1873 .. • >■ 65 „ 35 A statistical table compiled from auctioneers' books, pscribanos' regis- ters, and banking houses in the city, shows that the amount of property purchased by foreign settlers and of money remitted in small drafts to their friends at home in 1873 reached the enormous figure of 2,600,000/. sterling, viz. : — f Public lands bought .. .. ■ 45,460 Returns of 24 auctioneers 1,280,000 Foreign investments at Kosario .. .. .. 240,300 Small drafts to Italy .. 405,000 Spain France ., , Basque country Great Bfitain and Ireland Switzerland Germany 203,600 182,400 99,000 84,200 39,500 24,000 £2,603,460 423 CoBDOBA Exhibition op 1871. ENOLISH AND NOETH AMERICAN PBIZE LIST. Gold Medals. Wheelwright & Co., Eosario, farm implements and furniture (2). Stow Brothers, Frayle Muerto, „ „ Collins & Co., New York „ „ William Perkins, Eosario, labours for immigration. Gwynne & Co., England, pumps. Samuel Lafone, Catamarca, native wines. Eushton and Proctor, England, machinery. John Grey, England, steel ploughs. James Livesey, England, railway model. Handyside & Co., England, metal fountains. Barker & Co.,'.Cordoba, Angora goats and wool (2). James Temple & Co., Cordoba, large number of e:shibits. Walter A. Woods, Patent American reaper. Wilfrid Latham, Buenos Ayres, racehorses. Silver Medals. Wilfrid Latham, Buenos Ayres, prize cattle and wool -(4:). • J. E. Atkinson, London, perfumery. W. Parody, Buenos Ayres, short-hand system. Moretoii & Co., England, bedsteads, pumps, &o. (3). Mulhall Brothers, Buenos Ayres, various exhibits (2). Beokford & Co., Cornwall, candlewiok. Barker & Co., Cordoba, shawls and horses (2). Kevr and Clark, London, thread. Garrett and Sons, England, steam-harrow. Eushton and Proctor, England, road-engjnes, &c. (2). B. Eeed & Co., England, patent sower. Wood's patent mower. New York. John Howard, England, steel ploughs. Jack & Co., England, patent reaper. Fawcet, Preston & Co., England, sugar mill. Gwynne & Co., England, vertical engine. Ashby and Jeffry, England; vertical engine. W. B. Douglas, New York, fire-engine. Louis M. Murray, Boston, preserved fruits. Portlahd Packing Company, preserved salmon. 424 APPENDIX, Davis and McKean, Philadelphia, sugar samples. Mitchell & Co., horse or steam oorn-sheller. Comwin & Co;, Americam hand-enghies. Knot's patent American plough. Buckeye's Combined American reaper. • J. H. Tieman, indigo and colours in powder. Arthur Shaw, Cordoba, architect of annexes. , James Anderson, best ploughman. Bronze Medals. R. Ross, iron castings. W. Kelsey, Buenos Ayres steamboat model. H. Eo^, Santa Fe, machinery. M. S. Bagley, Buenos Ayres, Hesperidina liqueur. W. Tatham, Buenos Ayres, Durham cow. Gibson Brothers,'Buenos Ayres, Leicester sheep. F. Younger, Buenos Ayres, Berkshire sow. David Smith, England, cloth of River Plate Wool. G. Magnus, England, enamelled tiles. , Wood's Cpmbined American mower. Temple & Co., Cordoba, Dodge's reaper. Hornsby's saws and mowing machines (2). Garrett and Sons, England, hand wiimower. BurJick's patent straw-cutter. Ransom and Simms, England, patent barrows. Orosskill & Co., England, cartwheels, &c. (2). Woven wire beds, Hartford Company, United States. C. Lightfoot, New York travelling chairs. Willmore and Belcher, New York, hand com-shellers. Ames & Co., United States, harrows, &c. (2). MONTEVIDEO AT THE VIENNA EXHIBITION. M. Giebert, Liebig's Extractum Carnis, gold medal. Baron Maua, preserved beef, medicinal herbs, &c. Edward McEaohen, wild honey. Richard Hughes, native flax. Lucas Herrera-Obes, preserved beef. Paulet & Co.,' and Antonio Ferreyra, artificial saladero guano. Luis Latorre, native wines and liqueurs. Robert Davison, collection of wool samples. Luis Podesli, flour and macaroni. APPENDIX. 425 Joaquin Suarez, collection of T^oods. Bernabe Mendoza, skins and feathers. Gervasis Burgnefio, native marble. Dr. Ordonana, medicinal herbs.- John Mitchell, and Leon Domecq, dried beef. Josd Ortega, Guillenno Ponjade, and Gianelli Brothers, wheat. John F. Fisher, tanned hides. Koeing and Acenedo, glue. * Perfect Giot, Eambouillet wool. Euperto Las Carreras and Lorenzo Kieto, native woods. Torcuato Marquez and Miguel Eovira, honey. Henry Beaulieu and Santiago Bertelli, native silk. Xavier Vianna, native tobacco. Alitonio Molfino, cabinet work. Jorge Acevedo, ropes made of vira-vira. Victor Jacod, ostrich feathers. Ignacio Urtubey, wool samples. Luis Eocha, native wax. Morcino and Liaro, wheat. Eemijio Castellanos, medicinal herbs. Dr. BoUine, Vienna wool. Domingo Mora, statue of a Gaucho. Pedro Bemat, woods. Alfred Herrera, Alpaca wool. Lezica and Fynn, Sta Lucia water. Miking in the Aegentini! Gonfedbeation. The Carolina mine " has lately changed hands, and is now under the firm of SOMIDT, Teendelbtjeg, & Co. "Mr. A. S. Bower, son of Mr. Geo. Bower, the London contractor, has lately inspected these mines, and his report is very favourable. "More Chilian mills have been ordered, and under the management of the new firm great expectations may result. Mines we have in plenty, but the machinery generally used in them is of the rudest description." The " Carolina " has given great results in the past, and is likely to be still more productive in' the future. 426 appendix, Buenos Atkes New Gas Works. One of the most important public works hitherto completed in Buenos Ayres has been the Mutual Oas Company's, which we believe is the largest in South America. The works are situated in Calle Defensa, near to the Ensenada line of railway and close to the Boca ; a site well chosen, as it is at the lowest level of the city of Buenos Ayres, and close to the town of Barracas, which, with the Boca, will be lighted by this Company by the end of 1874. Up to the present Buenos Ayres is far behind Rio Janeiro in gas lighting, the former city having 5200 lamps, while at present Buenos Ayres has only 2200, representing about one- third of the city district. At Bio every lane and comer is lighted ; even gas is found at the top of the Tijuca mountain, having a charming appear- ance, surrounded as it is by splendid quintas ; while Buenos main street is only lighted half-way up with gas ! The last numbers taken from the municipal books were 2240 gas lamps and ;2860 kerosene lamps, and the district not lighted by either equal to another 1000. The Mutual Gas Works will be found well worth a visit; the' buildings and machinery stand upon 18,000 square acres of land, which cost, even in this part of the outskirts, nearly 7000Z. The retorts and ovens number about 200, and are capable of making 1,000,000 cubic feet of gas per day ; the gasholder is the largest in South America, and contains when full 500,000 cubic feet, the dimensions being 125 feet x 40 feet ; the scrubbers, condensers, engines, &c., are all on the most improved prin- ciples, and the works contain the usual stores, blacksmiths', carpenters', and other workshops. We noticed many applications of machinery so as to diminish hand labour. The front has a very handsome appearance, containing the manager's house, offices, stores, &c., the whole being finished off in Eoman cement. The coal store measures 300 feet x 100, and contains about 8000 tons of coal when full ; tramway lines run all over the works, and the whole fabric has the appearance of everything being well and completely done. The mains vary from 18" down to 2", and are laid in about 500 square blocks, representing a length of about 110 miles. The Mutual Gas Company hold the-municipal contract for ten years, from 15th June, 1874, for not fewer than 4200 lamps, which number it is expected will be increased to 6000 this session. The price paid for the public lamps is at 110 paper dollars per month, or say equal to.lOZ. 15s. per lamp per year, which must be considered a fair 'price, taking into consideration the lamps are only 28 yards apart. The whole of the goods were imported free of duty, but coal has to pay • about 8s. per ton. The quantity used per year is expected to be about APPENDIX. 427 I 10,000 tons. Coke finds a ready sale at about 31. 15s. to 4Z. 5s. per Spanish ton. Tar has not a good sale, and will be bnmt at the works under the retorts so as to save coke. The whole of the works were Carried out by Mr. George Bower, of Saint Neots, London, who has also erected several large gas works in South America, including Eio Grande, Porto Alegre, Pelotas, and Olinda, in Brazil, also the town of Belgrano near to the city of Buenos Ayres. If the new Mutual Gas Company will carry out the whole of their programme they will confer a benefit on the inhabitants, increase the value of property, reduce crime, and there can be no doubt 'their dividends will be satisfactory, judging from the profits of the old Buenos Ayres Gas Company, the Rio or the Montevideo works. Statistics of the Beptjblic op Ubuguat. M. Adolphe Vaillant, who published in 1873 an important statistical' work on the Republic of Uruguay, estimates the total population in that, country at 450,000. Since 1860 the, increase has been at the rate of 120 per cent, in the Metropolitan Department of Montevideo, and at the rate of 100 per cent, in the remaining twelve departments. In ten years, 1860 to 1870, the increase in the Department of Montevideo was at the rate of 93 per cent. ; whereas in the province of Buenos Ayres in the neighbouring Republic, the increase in the same time was 53 per cent., and in the United States 6f North America 34 per cent. , In regard to density of population, the Republic of Uruguay, being relatively of small extent, is more thickly peopled per square mile than Brazil or the Argentine Republic, but less so than Chile, In the Department of Mcsitevidqo there are 165 inhabitants to the square kilometre ; and in the other departments only H, As M. Vaillant observes, the Platine States are not peopled ! That, he says, is the secret of a rapid development which from time to time appears little less than magical, as with abound- ing space and a fruitful soil a few thousand immigrants will in each decade multiply the resources of the country out of all ordinary proportion to their number ; and often in spite of the opposing accidents of war, epidemics, and monetary crises. ■ Compared with South American states in general, and indeed with all others excepting its neighbour, the Argentine Republic, the character of its population forms the most hopeful element in the future of ' Uruguay. It is singular in possessing no indigenous races. As stated in the text of this work, there is not a single Indian in the territory of the Eepubhc. Moreover, the Afrjcans which were originally imported 428 APPBNBIX. as slaves, and till lately formed a large proportion of the soldiery and lower grades of the labouring population, are gradually disappearing. Even the " mestizos " of mixed Indian, Negro, and European races, who still compose the bulk of the native population in the country districts, are mysteriously diminishing. According to the calculations of M. Vail- lant the foreigners form about one-half of the whole population of the EepubUc ; and in Montevideo there are 480 foreigners in every 1000 in- habitants. But the foreign population of the Eepublic is not exclusively European. A large proportion in the northern departments is Brazilian. The European immigrants who remain in the country cannot at pre- sent be estimated at more than from 3000 to 5000 yearly, as the greater portion who arrive have latterly proceeded to Buenos Ayres and other Argentine ports. But such is the demand for labour, as M. Vaillant tells us, in all branches of industry, rural and urban', it is difficult to over- estimate the probable increase. In one year of average prosperity (1872) we have seen the number of immigrants augment at once 50 per cent, compared with the previous year. M. Doazan, the French charge d'affaires in Montevideo, estimated the amount of imports of Uruguay in 1869 at 4,744,393?., and the exports at 4,107,077?., giving a total of 8,851,470Z. These calculations are based upon the market value of the articles. The official values upon which the export and import duties are charged are about 27 per cent. less. The market value is, nevertheless, the true value, when it is a question of estimating th'e resources of the country independently of fiscal considerations. In a review of the trade of Uruguay, which for commerce is conveniently situated between two large countries, Brazil and the Argentine Eepublic, we have to take into account the " transit trade " and the " contraband trade." It is not easy to estimate the amount of one or the other. By the rough method of comparing the official returns of the exports of England, Prance, and Brazil to the Eepublic of Uruguay, with the amount of imports from those' countries given by the Montevideo customs, we find in the latter an enormous deficiency, amounting in 1868 to about 40 per cent. Cal- culating for all countries in the same proportion of deficit shown by England, France, and Brazil, the total deficiency would amount to 81 per cent. " Now if we are asked," says M. Vaillant, " what propor- tion of this deficit must be placed to the account of the transit trade, and what to contraband, we should be puzzled to reply." Making every allowance for contraband, both ifi the cattle trade on the Brazilian frontier and in the general trade through the Montevidean Custom House, the intimate connection between the foreign mercantile APPENDIX. * 429 houses in Montevidep and Buenos Ayres, the constant transhipment of goods according as the market is more favourable in one place or the other, would account for the greater part of the difference alluded to. But no kind of correct estimate of the transit trade could he made, unless based on a number of years. Naturally, in the years when the Montevidean market was most depressed, the export transit trade would be the heaviest, the converse being true in regard to imports. In 1862 the total imports and exports amounted to $16,956,245 ; and in 1872 to $34,349,256, official values. This increase of more than 100 per cent, took place in a period of ten years, in which the iJlepublio suffered from foreign and civil war, pestilence, and commercial crises. Those conditions were slightly relieved by, the extra trade the transit of provisions, troops and materiel from Brazil afforded during the war with Paraguay. ' Such adventitious aids to commerce are usually much overrated. The broad result of the Paraguayan war, one year with another, was to check the trade of Montevideo. A sufficient proof of that fact is in the statistics given by M. Vaillant. In the last three or four years of the war, the exports and imports fluctuated between twenty-eighfe and thirty millions. After a slight deoMne, they rose again three years afterwards, in 1872, to thirty-four millions, when commerce had returned to its old channels. From the latest returns of the Custom House we can safely estimate the exports and imports for 1874^5 at 25 per cent, over those of 1872. E Owing to the tastes and habits of the native inhabitants, and the large immigrations from the Basque provinces of Prance, the trade of Uruguay with that country is very important. M. Vaillant gives some interesting details in its regard. So far back as 1868 the relative values of the exports from France to different countries in America were as follow : — Millions of Francs. Argentine Eepublio 79 "1 Uruguay 41*6 (River Plate Republics) 120- 7 United States 162-1 Brazil 76-1 Chile 34-6 New Grenada 28 • Peru 27-8 Venezuela 4'4 Guatemala 1*5 Ecuador ,. ,. 1'4 Bolivia ^ .. .. 0-0 430 APPENDIX. M. Vaillant observes, tliat " the export trade pf France with the Eiver Plate is 60 per cent.,more important than that of Brazil; and 25 per cent, more than that of the united trade of the seven states of the Pacific mentioned above. The imports from FranOOOOOOOOOOOOOCQO COtMrHiO-^OOOiOOCQ lOJO O O Tt< CO CO t- O O OOO o oo o o o o ic o o oo 0»0 r-f O O O |> CDCO'co'cfCff OOO OOO, •C<1 CO IN S3 o o oo o o O OO o o o^o o_i>_ o^ cTo' cTcq" : t-T o ■* o o i> co~ -rOOQDOOOO SOtM (M lO O I>0 ::i 0^»0 o^i-i CO CO i-<^ O 00.0 (M . p OOO O CO C0000000000000 (NOOOCOOOOOOOOO , rH^O O^O O^O^O CD^O^O^O^O^O^O wfo o'er o'cTeTo'crcrcro'cr cT ftft 000000000000000 CDOIOOOOOOOO o o oooooooo i> cTcfTcTcff o"cro'cro'cro"cro"c>'crcro'crcr ^tHOCO»OOOOOI>0000->**»OOSQOI>0'*1> t*»OOSl>COi-ICOOOO-*-<*0000-*000 tHO»00-^OOOOOOOtH3COOOSO 0,0 COi-(OaOTtHOOOO tH CO CD^O Qo ^'^'^^o^o^ co'o'co^cTcTw'co^cid'orN co'co'^^r-rorararo'od'co' OOQOOSCOCOOCOrHCOt>t>(NTtlSO-00000000000000000 thocooooooooc>ooooooooo CD O CO O O O^O^O O O O^O lO o o^o^o^o o^o irf QcTi^ cTciTod'cirirro'o'co'cro cTo" cTiio'of co'cT rH»0Wt>t^C0OCDOO-^ca-• 00 orofp^aTi-rco i-rp^co"t-r r-r LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADYERTISEE. MAUA BANK, 101 — CALLE CANGALLO — 103. THE Public is informed that the following transactions are carried on in currency and specie in this Bank : — Billa and obligations with good signatures are discounted on conventional terms. Money is advanced on mercantile and other securities approved of by the Manager. Accounts Current are opened with merchants or other parties who may prefer depositing endorsed and transferable securities, against which they may draw up to an amount previously convened, imder conditions established for such class of operations. Money is received in account current, bearing interest from day of deposit, which is accumulated in favour of the parties every three months, the depositors being allowed to retire at any time by means of cheques — part, or the full amount, at their wish — save when the quantity exceeds three hundred doubloons, or one hundred thousand dollars currency, in which case forty-eight hours' previous notice is required to he given at the Treasury of the Bank. Bills or Letters of Credit are drawn and taken on Montevideo, Salto Oriental, Paysandii, Mercedes, Kio Janeiro, and other places in Brazil, London, Paris, Antwerp. Finally, the Bank undertakes and executes all legitimate transactions within the orbit of banking operations. The Establishment is always open from 10 a.m. till 3 p.m. Pp. MAUA, E. DE LAS CAEEEEAS. Buenos Atkes, 31st July, 1874. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. LONDON & RIVER PLATE BANK, lilMITKD. LONDON, BUENOS AYRES, MONTEVIDEO, EOSARIO, CORDOVA. AUTHORIZED CAPITAL £2,000,000 SXrBSCRIBED CAPITAXi 1,500,000 RESEEVE FXrUD 175,000 Receives Money in Current Account and in Deposit, payable g.t sight or at fixed dates. Buys and sells Bills of Exchange on all the principal cities of the world, issues Letters of Credit, and does every class of Banking business. WM. JOHNSON & Co., BALLAST AND WATER SUPPLIED. CORNER CALLES COLON Y LAS PIEDRAS, M©ISTE¥I®EQ). J. DE BOER, SURVEYOR, OF "BUREAU VERITAS," International Eegister for Classification of Vessels, AGENT FOR THE INSURANCE COMPANIES OF AMSTERDAM, ANTWERP, BREMEN, BORDEAUX, ELBEEFELD, FRANKFURT 0. M., GENOA, HAMBURG, HAVRE, HEILBRONN, LYONS, MARSEILLES, PARIS, ROTTERDAM, VIENNA, &c. Office-55, COERIENTES, BUENOS AYEES. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. JifltiuEnl ^HSHtnnre Ciini|ianie0, Iwa:.A.2Sr-A.<3-EI?,: F- F. 3sa:oi?,Eisro. No. 112|, OALLB FLORIDA— Second Story. 1st. The ARGENTINE INSURANCE COMPANY. Capital £400,000 sterling. Established in 1859, for Insurance against Fire, or Loss by Sea. Chairman : Thomas Armstrong, Esq. Vice-Chairman : Don Mariano Casares. Directors : Messrs. Jacob Parravicini, Bernardo Iturraspe, Ambrosio Plaoido Lezioa, and Martin Iraola. Maritime Inspector : Luis Sardi. Fire Inspector : W. Schindler. 2nd. The ESTRELLA FIRE AND NAVIGATION INSURANCE COMPANY. Capital £400,000 sterling. Established in 1865. Chairman : E. Oohoa. Vice- Chairman : Henry N. Hart. Directors : Thomas Armstrong, George Temperley, Alexander Sivori, F. Bustamante, and P. Senillosa. Maritime Inspector : Luis Sardi. Fire In- spector, W. Schindler. 3rd. BIENHECHORA DEL PLATA MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY. Established in 1864, under Government sanction. The sums subscribed are invested in the Home Consols of 6 per cent., or in Scrip of the Mortgage Bank, as subscribers may choose. Directors : E. Basabilvaso, Julio Sanchez, E. T. Mulhall, Jayme Llavallol, and Juan Lezica. Government Inspector : E. Del Campo. On May 31st, 1874, the Company had emitted 5501 Policies in National Bonds, the subscribed capital being equal to £1,158,408 sterling ; the amount of National Bonds held was £392,080 ster- ling ; besides 12 Policies in Mortgage Scrip representing £5901 sterling. Office Hours for the above Companies, from 10 to 5. a 2 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. Oriental Telegram Agency. OFFICES— 6 7, SAN IS^'AHTIN, OPPOSITE THE BOLSA, MOTIOE IS HEREBY GIVEN, that Messrs. LANUS and Co. are definitely installed by the Head Office, London, as Agents of the above Tele- graphic Agency, in the River Plate. Merchants, Bankers, and others are invited to register their names without delay. Registration gratis, after which the names and addresses of firms and their correspondents count as ONE word only. The Registration Book is now opened, and we earnestly request those intending to register to come early, so that the lists may be ready for the first steamer. EXAMPLE. Eldeb & Co., London. YrvALDi & Co., Paris. -n o <-i Feeeeiea & Co., Havre. T,; no T rfs ^°^°''°'' * ^^^ ^^^''P°°^- ^ ■ Johnson & Co., Manchester. Smith, C. E., Glasgow. ^ViAEiNi HiJOT, Lisbon. Each of the above Correspondents has a number. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVERTISEK. HOUSE COAL, FOR COOKING AND DOMESTIC PURPOSES, Eeceived direct from the best Mines in England, and always on Sale at Lowest Market Prices at V. & L. CASARES' YARD, «>^«>„ « OBDEBS BECEIYEB at— No. 4, OALLE BALCAECE. THE DEPOSIT m BAREAOAS,nearS. Esquinas; OB AT THE HEAD OFFICE, m the PLAZA ONCE. • N.B.~NO CHARGE FOE CARTAGE. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEKTISEE. •KODOLFO NEWBEKY, BROTHERS, jf^l^^IH-RXGJ^l^ IDBHSTTISTS (Formerly of Montevideo), Associated with Don TOMAJ COQUET, 108, CALLE MAIPU. We have received an immense quantity of the moat beautifully-carved Artificial Teeth, comprising thousands of different shades and forms, from which, with our long practical experience, we can match any style or feature, complexion or expression, with such artistic niceness that detection is impossible. Tlie Plate we use for the atmospheric pressure is the Whalebone Eubber, the lightest and strongest known. We have been using Nitrous Oxide Gas for the painless Extraction of Teeth for nearly fourteen years, and have administered it over 20,000 TIIYIES, 2140 times, in this City alone, since August, 1873, and recommend it as the safest anesthetic known. It is nothing new ; as it has been tested by thousands of Dentists and hundreds of thousands of people. Persons from the Camp and neighbouring Towns can have their Sets of Teeth made in time to return the same day, by making an appointment beforehand. RODOLFO NEWBERY, BROTHERS, 108, CALLE MAIPU. CHAS. A. DAVIS, EECEIYED EX THE SUPEEIOE COURTS OF JUSTICE, Being duly authorized, undertakes to arrange all Questions of Heirship and Legacies, the Liquidation of Societies, whether public or private, in Bank- ruptcy or otherwise; to Audit the Books of Companies; and to Adjust Averages of every description. COBEBSPONDENTS IN ENGLAND : Messrs. CLARK, SON, and PUEDAY, 14, LITTLE TOWEK STEEET, LONDON. 117 — CALLE POTOSI — 117. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVBETISEB. ft '%\t immth ixmX ESPECIALLY ESTABLISHED IN THESE CAMP TOWNS SALE OF EVERY ARTICLE AT CITY PEICES. NO SECOND PEICE. TORROBA BROTHERS, MERCEDES '& CHIVILCOY. &^Eir€¥ WBR 'STJlHBAIB.' LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. MOCKFORD'S SHEEP A^A.SH. The excellent properties of this "Wash for the Extermination of Scab, and for Purifying the Skin and Stimulating the Growth of Wool in Sheep, Are already widely known and appreciated by the Flockmasters of this and other countries. The Reduced Price at which it is sold since the Duty was abolished, on petition of the chief Con- sumers of this "Wash, makes it the cheapest and most effective Remedy ever produced. AGENTS IN TEE BIVEB PLATE, ZIMMERMANN, FAIR, & CO., BUENOS AYEES AM) MONTEVIDEO. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVBKTISEE. BEANDY BITTERS. TONIOO AM^RGO. These Bitters are held in the highest estimation for their virtues in giving an appetite if taken an hour before a meal; and as an excellent Remedy in all Diseases of the Stomach arising from Debility, as Nausea, Flatulency, Indigestion, Spasm, Heartburn, 6fc. ; also in Nervous Affections, Faintness, General Debility, and Lowness of Spirits. A Tahlespoonful to be taken for a Dose, either with or without an equal quantity of water, and repeated two or three times a day if required. PEEPAEED ONLY BY BOTIGA DE 8. BISHOP, BUElSrOS AYHES. 10 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. JOHN FINDLAY & CO., 19, CAIiLE POTOSI, BUENOS AYHES, and 10, liATJBENCE POUNTNEY LANE, LONDON, Ofifer for Sale a Complete Assoktment of Machineey of the following Classes : — Brick and Tile MacUnery. Saw-Mill and Wood-Working Machinery. Pumping and Hydraulic Machinery. Engineers' Tools and Steam Fittings. Printing and Lithographic Machinery and Utilities. Engines from 2 to 20 horse-power — Horizontal, Portable, and Vertical. Plans, Specifications, and Estimates furnished for aU kinds of Machinery to bona-fide applicants. JUAN FINDLAY & CIA., 19, DALLE POTOSI, BUENOS AYKES, y 10, LAURENCE POUNTNEY LANE, LONDBES, Tienen siempre en venta un Magnifico Subtido de Maqtjinaeia de todas clases : — Maquinas para hacer ladrilloa y baldosas. Cerruchos y maquinaria para cortar madera. Toda clase de Bombas y utiles de hidraulica. Utiles de ingenieros y de estableeimientos a vapor. Maquinaria de imprenta y litografia. Maquinas a vapor desde 2 hasta 20 cabaUos de fuerza — sistema hori- zontal, portatil, y vertical. Los interesados pueden pedir, gratis, loa dibujos, precios y toda claae de detalles, en nuestra caaa, No. 19, Calle Potosi. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEKTISER. H ALFREDO JONAS & CO. HATE REMOVED THEIR OFFICES TO 655 & 657, RIVADAVIA. THE FIRST ARGENTINE I00T &®B UMBM l'Jb€¥0Ml A. JONAS & CO.,' Peopeietoes, KECBITB OBDEES FOB EVEKT DESOKIPTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES AT THEIE OFB'ICB, 655 & 657, RIVADAVIA. WANTED— 20 \VOMEN OR MEN, TO WOEK BOOTS AND SHOES ON SEWING MACHINES., MOYED BY STEAM-POWER, Apply between 4 and 5 p.m. at the FIRST AEGENTINE BOOT & SHOE FACTORY, ALFREDO JONAS & CO., Proprietors. 12 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVERTISEE. Prepared by S. TOEEES & CO,, Druggists. GUARANTEED INFALLIBLE FOR THE CURE OF SCAB IN SHEEP! After loDg experiments and innnmerable triak we have succeeded in pre- paring the above Sheep Dip, by the use of which we guarantee the thorough eradication of Scab in Sheep. Besides cheapness and easy application, it has the great advantage over all other similar preparations of being complddy soluble in water, a circumstance which admits of our liquid penetrating to the very surface of the skin without spotting the wool or making it adhere. METHOD OF USING IT "WITH THE BEUSH. Mix one part of the Dip with (8) eight parts of water and apply it to the affected part with a brush. METHOD OP USING IT AS A DIP. Mix one part with twelve of water — warm water is better — and bathe the animal therein. The cure may be effected by means of battling during the shearing, but it is preferable to delay the same for one or two months after, as it can be done more carefully then, although the partial cure with the brush ought to be practised every time a sheep is observed to be affected. A second application will cure the most inveterate scab totally, and impede the spread of this serious evil. This we guarantee on the authority of many of our principal estancieros. Prepared and sold exclusively by S. TOUIRES & CO., 65, 67, & 69, DEFENSA, BUENOS AYRES. N.B. — We likewise sell the well-known Kemedy for the Cure of Foot Kot (Morrifia), the use of which will destroy the maggots produced b^ this disease in the hoofs of sheep ; and it is proved to be the best preventive for the inflammation caused after castrating stallions. One application vrill save a valuable animal. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. 13 PETER EBBEKE & Co., AUCTIONEEES, 80, CALIjE FEEA. This old-established Firm undertakes the Sale or Purchase of REAL ESTATE, HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE, LIVE STOCK, SOFT GOODS, &c., &c., On the most favourable terms, which a lengthened experience of men and markets can alone supply. 14 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEKTISEB. WILLIAM MARTIN, PEOFESSOE OF LANGUAGES AND DEAWING, Eefeeences— ' STANDAKD ' OFFICE, T. A. FUND & CO., MEOHAISriCS AND EnSTG-HSTEERS, MANUFACTURERS OF SEWING MACHINES, 213, 215, 217, CALLE CHACABUCO, Offer to the Public a large assortment of all kinds of Sewins Machines— a variety of the hest makers, such as Wheeler & Wilson, Grover & Baker, Singer, Howe, Little Wauzer, and others, all original manufactures, as also different kinds of their own, at the Lowest Prices. Every Machine will be specially guaranteed by them. Eepairs speedily attended to and cheaply executed. Old Machines taken in payment for new ones. Beg to offer their Establishment for every kind of Mechanical Wokks and Enginery, possessing the neces- sary utensils for the manufacture of Machinery and Mechanical Instru- ments. To Builders and Architects they particularly offer their services for the working of Railings for Balconies, and similar articles. Muskets, Revolvers, and all kinds of Fire-arms repaired at lowest figures. <^tJES^^J>^^ Ac IBXJLIilCH, 57-CALLE CANGALLO — 57, Undertake the Sale ok Purchase of 'gmU, ^mm, lurnitttw, Carriages, faiilj frflka, k., h. CASH ADVANCED ON THE ABOVE GOODS, ORiVALUABLES, LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEP. 15 TEinOIT IGEiei OF PAEZ & CO., No. 44, CALLE EIVADAVIA. The Finest and most Commodious Steamers in the Kiver are Daily Despatched for ROSARIO, PARANA, PARAGUAY, CORRIENTES, MONTEVIDEO, PAYSANDU, SALTO, GUALEGUAYCHU, &c., &c. All kinds of CUSTOM-HOUSE "WORK done with promptness and dispatch. 16 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVBETISEE. LA POPULAR AUGENTINA. SAVINGS BANK. Deposits in account current are received from ^250 m/e to the largest sum. Interest at 8 per cent., capitalized every three months. Depositors will receive a Pass-hook, showing how their account stands. DEPOSITS AT FIXED DATES. The sum deposited must not be less than 100 hard dollars. Depositor will receive a Bond signed by the Government Delegate, the Administrator, and a member of the Vigilance Committee. The interest can be collected every three months by means of Coupons attached to the Bond. * At 6 months .. * .. .. 10 per cent. At 9 „ 11 „ At 12 „ 12 „ For more than a year — at rate to be agreed on. The Bonds and Coupons when due will be paid in any Town in America or Europe, to be named when depositing the money. The Head Office, and all the Branches throughout the EepubHc, give Drafts on Europe. ADMINISTRACION GENERAL, 2131 Calle Piedad. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEB. 17 ESTABLISHED 18^1. MAC LEAN & CO., No. 1, CALIE EEC0NQDI8TA, BUENOS ATEES (Opposite the Colon Theatre, corner of Plaza Victoria). UNDERTAKE THE CONSIGNMENT OF GOODS ON COMMISSION. SHIP AGENTS ON SPECIAL TERMS. CUSTOM HOUSE BROKERS, FORWARDING AND GENERAL COMMISSION AGENTS. SPECIAL AGENTS FOR THE TRADES OF PATAGONES, BAHIA BLANCA, AND RIVER PORTS. PACKAGES FOR THE INTERIOR OF THE REPUBLIC FORWARDED IMMEDIATELY AND DELIVERED THROUGH OUR PROVINCIAL AGENTS. INVOICES COLLECTED AGAINST DELIVERY OF GOODS. AGENTS FOR THE PRINCIPAL COLONIES. CORRESPONDENCE IN ENGLISH, ITALIAN, FRENCH, AND SPANISH. AGENTS FOR THE PRINCIPAL EUROPEAN AND AMERICAN EXPRESS COMPANIES. b 18 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. J08E PEDRO LUZZETTI, ENGINEER AND AECHITECT, BUENOS AYRES. THE COLOMA DOCK. THIS DOCK IS IN FINE WOEKING ORDEE. YESSELS HAULED IN- IN 25 MINUTES. FOE PARTICULARS INQUIRE OF RUBIO & FOLEY, AGENTS, 40 — CALLE CANGALLO — 40. HOARD, LOADER, & CO., iva:o3srTE-viiDEO. Agents for Messrs. 0. Gaden & Klipsh, Bordeaux ; P. Gabnibb, Noyon, France ; Geoege Cubling & Co., London; Db Venoge & Co., Epemay; The Oommebcial Union Fibe Insdeancb Company, London. H., li., & Co. occapy themselves in the Disposal of Consignments, Purchase of Produce, and Commission Business generally. ' LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. 19 FELIPE SCHWARZ & BRO', MECHANICAL AND CIVIL ENGINEERS AND CONTRACTOES, CALLE SAN LUIS, 6, CASA AMARILLA, BUENOS ATEES. FOTJISTIDTI-^ UVEETsT. SHIP'S REPAIRS AND MILLWORK OF ALL KINDS. F. S. & BEO' being well and favourably known to mostly all the best Machine Makers in Europe, are prepared to take Orders for all the most improved ENGINES AND BOILERS. AGRICULTURALi IMPLEMENTS. PRINTING PRESSES. FLOUR MILLS AND WATER WHEELS. HYDRAULIC PUMPS AND PRESSES. SHEEPSHEARS AND FIRE ENGINES, &c., &c. NAVAL AND TERRESTRIAL ARCHITECTURE. F. S. and BEO' have everytliiiig imported direct from the European Markets. CALLE SAN LUIS, 6, CASA AMARILLA, BUENOS AYRES. 62 20 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. AUTHORIZED CAPITAL, jei,500,000. SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL, A'1,000,000. RESERVE FUNDS, £50,000. Offices in London - - Ho. 6, Lombard Street, E.G. Offices in Buenos Ayres - No. 85, Calle Eeconquista. Offices in Monte Video - No. 202, Calle Misiones. In England. JuLTUS Beer, Esq. Edwabd Ashworth, Esq. Ed. J. Halset, Esq. Frederick J. Isaac, Esq. A. J. Lambert, Esq. DIRECTORS. t In South America. Ambrosio p. Lezica, Esq. Sabittel B. Hale, Esq. Charles P. Lttmb, Esq. A, Ure Mackiklat, Esq. James Scarnichia, Esq. Managring Director in Buenos A3rres. Frederic Wakkltn, Esq. MANAGERS. In London. Charles Raphael, Esq. In Montevideo. Wm. Flowerdew, Esq. Current Accounts opened with Commercial Firms and Private Individuals. Deposits received for Fixed Terms. Bills, Public Funds, Coupons, &c., received for Collection. Bills Discounted at Conventional Kates. Bills of Exchange purchased at Current Rates. Circular Notes issued to Travellers. Letters of Credit issued on the Head Office in London, and on Paris, Antwerp, Genoa, New York, &c. Commission charged only on amount used. Letters of Credit payable in Buenos Ayres or Montevideo at the Current Kates of Exchange, can be obtained by persons desiring to remit or bring money to the River Plate, from the Head Office in London, from the National Bank in Ireland, and from the other Agents of the Bank. Bills of Exchange issued on the Head OlBfice : London and County and other Banks in London. Most of the Provincial Towns in England. The National and other Banks in Ireland. The British Linen Company and other Banks in Scotland. Also on Frankfort, Baden-Baden, Bremen, Amsterdam, Madrid, and all Agents of the Bank of Castile, Barcelona, Vigo, Corufia, Gibraltar, Lisbon, A complete list of Agents may be seen at the Offices of the Bank. (Signed) F. WANKLYN, Managing Dibectob. BuEsos Aykes, May 20th, 1874. Montevideo, Kio de Janeiro, Lima, Valparaiso, Paris, Bordeaux, Havre, 3Iarseilles, Lyons, Toulonse, Dieppe, Pan, Antwerp, Liege, Genoa, Turin, Venice, Naples, Florence, Milan, Berlin, Cologne, Dresden, Hamburg, Oporto, San Francisco, St. Petersburg, Montreal, and Stockholm, Branches of the Constantinople, Bank of Mon- Alexandria, treal, Bale, Bombay.and other Berne, Branches of the St. Gall, Chartered Mer- Zurich, cantile Bank of Lausanne, India, London, Geneva, and China. New York, LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISBE. 21 ARGENTINE BANK, 31, 33, AND 35, SAN MARTIN. BANKIM HOURS from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. |Ksikirt— BEENAEDO YEIGOYEN. §mdax-§mxzl--T>. ANACAESIS LANUS. The Eate of Interest from the date, until further notice, will be — Allows— ^On Account Current . , 7 per cent per annum. ^ Thirty Days 8 „ Sixty to Ninety Days .. 9 ,, „ Charges — On Specie and Currency, 15 per cent, per annum. Money Advanced on Current Account. Bills and Pagaees Discounted on Conventional Terms. SAVINGS BANK, Open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. On Specie and Currency, 6 per cent, per annum. MAE CO BEL PONT, Manager . Buenos Atbes, June 1, 1873. 22 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. ARGENT NE NAT ONAL TELEGRAPHS. The Uniform Eate of 25 cents. is charged for each 10 Words between the following Of&ces : Buenos Ayres. Ojo de Agua. Eioja Empedrado. Belgrano. Loreto. Chilecito. Corrientes. Zarate. Santiago. Tinogasta. Diamante. Baradero. Tuouman. Belen. Victoria. San Pedro. Traiicas. Andalgala. " Gualeguay. San Nicolas. Eosario Froutera. San Lorenzo. Gualeguaychu, Hosario. Metan. Coronda, Conoppcion. Belleville. Campo Santo. , Santa-Fe. Colon. "Villa Maria. Salta. Rlncon. Concordia. Cordoba. Jujuy. Parana. Pederacion. Jesus Maria. Atamisque. Antonio Tomas. Nogroya. Biviaadero. Salavina. La Paz. Tala. Tuluraba. Monteros. Esquina. Villaguay. San Pedro, Cordoba .. Medina. Goya. Ohaiiar. Catamaroa. Bellavista. TELEGBAMS ARE ALSO FORWARDED TO CHILE. Buenos Ayres, 1874. CHAELE8 BUETON, DmECTOK-GESEBAIi. EDWARD CASEY, 118 — SAN MAETIN — 118. BILLS OF EXCHANGB ON IRELAND. Parties about to leave lEELAND for the EIVER PLATE can, by applying at the Bank of Ibeland, Dublin, obtain Drafts on the above-named, payable in Buenos Atbes; the best and most secure way for Emigrants and others coming to the Plate to hold their money. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. 23 BANCO NACIONAL, 32, RECONQUISTA. CAPITAL, v^20,000,000 = ^4,000,000 Sterling. DIRECTORS. lasiknt.— JUAN ANCHOEENA. iixst ma-pzsx)3txd—'E-MI110 CASTEO. inanH tm-|asiknt.-DALMACIO VELEZ SAESEIELD. MAEIANO CASAEES, JUAN EEIAS, FELIX BEENAL, JOSE F. LEDESMA, NOEBEETO DE LA EIESTEA, FELIPE A. LLAVALLOL, NAECISO MAETINEZ DE HOZ, ANGEL M. MENDEZ, LEONAEDO PEEEIEA. gemtarg— JOSE M. GUTIEEEEZ. ^xcspdax-J. PEDEO DE SOUZA. BANKING HOURS. 10 A.M. to 4 P.M. 24 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. GEO. BOWER, GAS AND WATEB WORKS ENGINEER, AND CONTRACTOR FOR PUBLIC WORKS, ST. NEOTS, Mr. BOWEE has already manufactured and erected more than 500 Gas and Water Works, In nearly all parts of the Grlobe ; including a large number supplied to the British, French, Eussian, Spanish, and Italian Governments. As an Engineer, Mr. Bower will design and carry out Gas or Water Works on Commission ; or, as Contractor, supply and erect them complete, with all the most modern practical, inventions, for a fixed price, in any part of the World. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISBE. 25 Mr. BOWER has supplied and fixed a large number of Gi-as Works in South America, including the whole of the Mains and Buildings complete for the following Cities: — BUENOS AYRES MUTUAL GAS COMPANY, Capable of making 1,000,000 cubic feet per day. ARGENTINE GAS COMPANY, ■^orks for 200,000 cubic feet per day. BELGRANO GAS WORKS, ARGENTINE REPUBLIC. RIO GRANDE GAS WORKS, BRAZIL. PORTO ALEGRE GAS WORKS, BRAZIL. PELOTAS GAS WORKS, BRAZIL. OLINDA GAS WORKS, BRAZIL. Mr. BOWER also undertakes the entire equipment of Tramway Companies, constructs Bridges, Fountains, Sugar Machinery, and General Engineering Work, to Order. ^ The great experience in Continental Trading enables Mr. Bowbk to execute orders on the most favourable terms to Purchasers ; and being thoroughly conversant with the requirements of most Foreign Markets as to Custom House Declarations, Packing, &c., his expe- rience in these matters will be found of great advantage. All inquiries should be addressed to ST. NEOTS ; or to the South Ambbican Agent, Mr. c. h. smith, 235, Calle Victoria, Buenos Ayres. 26 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. BANCO DE ITALIA Y EIO DE LA PLATA. 74— CALLE PIEDAD — 74. Subscribed Capital, £1,500,000 hard Dollars, (This is divided into 15,000 Shares.) BOAED OF DIRECTORS. ^Ksibtnt.— MARCOS DEMARCHI. ©ite-f rtsiknt.— AGILES MAVEROFP. ANTONIO DEVOTO. PABLO MARENGO. NICOLAS SCHIAFFINO. BARTOLEME VIALE. LUIS EAMINr. EDUARDO FALCON. Until further notice the rates of Interest will be as follows : Allows — Account Current, 7 per cent. Fixed periods, conventional. Chakges — Account Current, 15 percent. Discounts, Promissory Notes, and other Documents, conventional. , BILLS AND LETTERS OF CREDIT Issued on Londok, Fbance, Belgium, and all the Chief Cities of Italy, viz. : — Rome .. Banco Genbrale di Roma. Genoa „ EI Genova t Banco Italico Milan „ Lombaedo. Turin „ DI Toeing. Venice „ Venetg. - Padua „ Venetg. Iiecco „ DI Leoco. Savona ,, DI Savona. Paris .. M. FOCLD & Co. Bordeaux . . .. PlGANEAU FILS, LafABGUE & Co. Marseilles .. . . Pascal pels. Also Direct on London. Drafts likewise given or taken on Cordoba, San Juan, and Tucuman. The Bates of Exchange on Italy are always posted up in the Bank for public view, whether at sight or on time. The Bank gives Letters of Credit for Shipment of Goods or Passengers from any of the above ports of Italy. BANKING HOURS. From 10 to 4 p.m., and until 5 on Saturdays. S. POLLININI, Manages. Buenos Ayees, Julio 1, 1873. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. 27 GOVERNMENT MOETGAGE BANK, Offices— 111, OALLE SAN MAETIN. This Bank will be open to the Public on all business days from 10 a.m. to i p.m. It advances on real estate to be repaid at long dates. It pays Mortgage Certificates (Cedulas Hipotecarios) for the amount of the loan it advances, which bear an interest equal to that collected by the Bank. The value of property offered in Moitgage shall not be under two thousand patacons, nor the loan be less than 500 fuertes. No loan can excetd half the value of the property mortgaged. The Mortgagor shall bind himself to pay an annual sum so long as the Mortgage lasts, said sum to represent the interest on the sum lent the amor- tization fund and commisston to the Bank. This yearly sum shall be paid quarterly or half-yearly. Series A — duarterly.— Mortgage for 20 years ll7 days, 8 per cent, interest, 2 per cent, amortization, and 1 per cent, commission. Series B — Quarterly. — Mortgage for 27 years 270 days; 8 per ceht. interest, 1 per cent, amortization, and 1 per cent, commission. Series C — Half-yearly. — Mortgage for 20 years 190 days, 8 per cent, interest, 2 per cent, amortization, and 1 per cent, commission. Series D — Half-yearly.— Mortgage for 28 years 5 days, 8 per cent, interest, 1 per cent, amortization, and 1 per cent, commission. Upon the full payment of the yearly sums stipulated in the Mortgage, both property and Mortgagor shall be freed from all further obligation. The Mortgagor thall be at liberty to anticipate the payments and to dis- charge the Mortgage, all or in part. Applications for Mortgages must be made in writing, specifying the property offered, accompanied by the title deeds^ the receipts of the Contribucion Direota tax, and setting forth that the property is free from all incumbrance, or if not the incumbrance that exists thereon, and which is to be paid off by the Mortgage. The Secretary of the Bank will supply applicants with the forms necessary, as also the tables for amortization. , Quarterly Mortgagors shall pay from 8th to 15th of each January, April, July, and October, and half-yearly Mortgagors shall pay between the 8th and 15th of each January and July. With the amortization fund, mortgage certificates (cedulas) shall be redeemed at par by quarterly and half-yearly drawings. The Mortgage Bank pays the interest on the quarterly cedulas or mortgage certificates between the 31st December and 6th January, the 31st March and 6th April, the 30th June and 6th July, tlie 30th September and 6th October every year, and on the half-yearly cedulas from the 31st December to 6th January, and from 30th June to 6th July. The Mortgage Bank can act between the capitalist and mortgagor, free of charge, in the way of realizing the cedulas, and for this purpose will receive deposits without interest, which will receive a preference, and which sums will be deposited in the Provincial Bank. On and after the 15th February, 1872, the Mortgage Bank wiU be open to the pubUc. JOSE M. LA FUENTE, Seobetaet. Ill — CALLE SAN MARTIN — lU. 28 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEK., NATIONAL EMPLOYMENT OFFICE, 121, CALLE MAYO. This Institution, created by the National Government, under the superintendence of the Immigration Committee, has for its chief object to PROVIDE LABOUE aEATUITOUSLY for all applicants, more especially FOE EUEOPEAN IMMIGEANTS, for whom the undersigned Chief of the Office has ever an especial care. All Languages spoTcen, and no Fee or Commissions of any kind whatsoever charged. FREDEEICK GOWLAND. Buenos Atees, Sept. 1, 1873. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEK. 29 THE LABOUE OFFIGE. Decree of the National Grovernment. /CONSIDERING- the advantage to Immigrants of an Office where they would be supplied with work on landing, and there being funds enough at the disposal of the Immigration Department, as shown by the last Annual Report, the President of the Republic hereby DECREES : Art. 1. Let an Office be created under the name and title of "Labour Office," under the direction of the Immigration Committee. Art. 2. The Staff shall consist of a Head Clerk, with salary of one hundred and fifty patacones per month, with an Assistant at fifty patacones per month, another fifty being also allowed for Office expenses. Art. 3. Let it be communicated, published, and entered in the National Register. SAKMIENTO. DAL MA.CIO VBLEZ SARSFIELD. ED. FOX, Secretary. 30 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. DEUTSCH-BELGISCHE LA PLATA BANK, Cologne and Buenos Ayres. Authorized Capital :— Prussian Silver Thalers, 20,000,000. Subscribed Capital :— Prussian Silver Thalers, 10,000,000. OFFICES TS. BXJBNOS AYEES : SO — CALLE FLORIDA — 20. CUEEENT ACCOUNTS opened with Commercial Firms and Private Individuals. MONEY EECEIVED on fixed Deposit at conventional rates. BILLS DISCOUNTED at conventional rates. BILLS OF EXCHANGE purchased at current rates. DEAFTS issued on the following places : Montevideo Cologne Antwerp Kio de Janiero Hamburg Genoa New Y^ork Bremen Madrid London Paris Lisbon Berlin Amsterdam And all the principal places of commerce on the Continent of Europe. LETTEES OF CREDIT issued available for purchase of merchandise in all parts of the world, on terms to be ascertained on application to the Bank. AD. ALTGELT, U. LOCHEE, Managbes. Deutsch-Belgische La Plata Bank. From the 1st Julio, 1873, and till further Notice, the Eate of Interest allowed and charged by the Bank will be as follows : INTEREST ALLOWED. On Deposits in Account Current, in both Currencies, 4 per cent, per annum. Ds. on a fixed term, at 30 days 4 per cent. " 1) 60 „ 5 „ i> ji 90 ,, 6 „ At longer dates at conventional rates. INTEREST CHARGED. On Debit Balances in Account Current, in both Currencies, 15 per cent. For Discounts — Conventional, according to circumstances. Bank hours from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and on Saturdays to 5 p.m. AD. ALTGELT, U. LOCHEE, Makageks. B0BNOS Atbeb, August 12, 1873. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISBE. 31 IS THE BEST TONIC FOR CONVALESCENTS. IS aOOD FOR EVERYONE. IT GIYES AN APPETITE TAKEN BEFOBE MEALS, AND ASSISTS DIGESTION IP TAKEN AFTEK. Is Pure and Gennine' only when the Labels, Capsule, and Cork of each Bottle have the facsimile of the Proprietor's Signature, M. S. BAGLEY. 32 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. A MACHINE FOR RAISINa WATER FROM ANY DEPTH, Peotbcted bt letters PATENT gkanted bt the NATIONAL GOVERNMENT to Eugenio Filipe Caeberas. "We beg to call the special attention of Sheep-Fabmees and Ageioultueists to the advantages gained by the use of this machine, especially as regards the simplifcity of its working and the ease with which the bucket is manipulated. The qualities which are most notable in this machine are the following, viz. : SOLIDITY OF CONSTRUCTION ; being whoUy of iron, well put together, and painted. SIMPLICITY ; as it can be placed over, or fitted to, almost any well (or jagUel) without the assistance of machinist or mechanic ; can be removed from one part of the establishment to another with the greatest ease ; and, above all, does not requii-e rods or brickwork either in or about the well. FACILITY IN ■WORKING ; as with the aid of a boy and a horse large quantities of water can be raised in a very short time. DURABILITY. It will last for years, and is very difficult to get out of order. CHEAPNESS ; the price being only $3000 m/c, delivered in Buenos Ayres. CONVENIENCE. The motive power can be attached to either end without changing the position of the receptacle for the water, as by passing the rope over the small wheel and ovee the pulley above the discharging trough (or canaleta) the horse can draw from the opposite end to that shown in the engraving which accompanies every machine. For further particulars apply to the. Proprietors, E. F. CAEEEEAS & CO., 314, Maipu. TA.ICE NOTICE. Extract translated from the Patent Law. See Paragraphs Nos. 53, 54, 56, & 60. No. 53. The infringement of patent rights will be Judged as a criminal act, and punished with a fine of from 50 fts. to 50O fts. (gold dollars), or with from one to six months' imprison- ment, and the confiscation of the counterfeit articles ; the infliction of which will, however, in nowise interfere with the right of the patentee to sue the counterfeiter for damages. No. 54. Those who may aid and abet the counterfeiters, either by selling, appropriating, introducing, or affording infoi;mation concerning the counterfeit (knowing it to be such), will be liable to the same punishment. No. 56. The fact of the counterfeiter having been in the employ of the patentee, or having obtained a knowledge of the details under false pretences, will be considered an aggravation of the offence. No. 60. The fines imposed upon the delinquent will be divided between the Fiscal and the Inforueb. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISBE. 33 HOUSE & LAND AGENCY, 130 -SAN MAETIN-130. ,We do a Large Business in the Purchase and Sale of JjAnded Properties throughout the Argentine Republic, and especially in the province of Buenos Ayres. Letters from parties in G-reat Britain and Ireland who wish to invest in this country will be answered by return of post. We collect Eents, remit the money, and give previously security for the same. We buy Properties for established Houses, or for parties who send satisfactory references, paying the purchase-money in advance, which we recover on ■ depositing the title-deeds in any bank of Buenos Ayres that the purchaser shall indicate. DENNEHY & MIROLI. Note. — We collect Interest on National Bonds, Mortgage Bank Cedillas, ^c. 34 LA PLATA HAJfDBOOK ADVEETISEE. BRISTOL'S SARSAPARILLA, IN LARGE BOTTLES, The G-reat Purifier of the Blood, Particularly recommended for use during Spring and Summer, When the blood is thick, the circulation clogged, and the humours of the body rendered unhealthy by the heavy and greasy secretions of the winter months. This safe, though powerful detergent, cleanses every portion of the system, and should be used daily as A DIET DRINK by all who are sick, or who wish to prevent sickness. It is the only genuine and original preparation for the of the most dangerous and confinned cases of Scrofula, Old Sores, Boils, Tiunours, Ulcers, Abscesses, and every kind of Scrofulous and Scabious Erup- tions. It is also a sure remedy for Salt-Eheum, Bingworm, Tetter, Scald Head, Scurvy, SyphiUs or Venereal Disease, White Swelling and Neuralgic Affections, Nervous and General Debility of the System, Loss of Appetite, Languor, Dizziness, and all Affections of the Liver, Fever and Ague, Bilious Fevers, Chills and Fever, Damp Ague, and Jaundice. Guaranteed to be the most powerful and purest preparation of GENTIINE HONDtTRAS SAESAPAKILLA that is put for Sale. It is the very best, and, in fact, the only sure and reliable cure of all. dis- eases arising from a vitiate or impure state of the blood, or from excessive use of mercury. The aMioted may rest assured that there is not the least particle of mineral or any other poisonous substance in this medicine. It is perfectly harmless, and may be administered to persons in the very weakest stages of sickness, or to the most helpless infants, without doing the least injury. Full directions how to take this most valuable Medicine win be found around each bottle ; and, to guard against counterfeits, see that the written signature of LANMAN and KEMP is upon the blue label. PEEPAEED ONLY BT Lanman & Kemp, Wholesale Druggists, LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 35 THE "STANDARD," ESTABI^ISHED 1861, PUBLISHED EVEKY MORNING. SUBSCRIPTlON-130 PER MONTH. THE "WEEKLY STANDARD," EVERY WEDNESDAY. DOUBLE SHEET. $20 PEE MONTH, oi $200 PEE AHNUM, m ADVANCE. PACKET EDITION, FOETOSriGrllTLY, FOR EJiTG-LISII MIAILS. £2 PEE ANNUM. The total List of Subscribers comprises 3000 names. Over 20,000 copies pass monthly through the Post OfEoe for the United Kingdom, European Continent, North America, &o. Editors and Proprietors— M. G. and E. T. MULHALL. LQNDON—M.R. GEOEGE STREET, 30, Cokhhill. SOUTHAMPTON— Mb. J. C. SHAEPE, Eeutee's Tem;gbaph. MONTEVIDEO— G. BEHRENS, 103, Calle Zavala. Subscribers in the Rural Districts may order their Correspondence from Europe to be directed to the Standard OiBce, whence it viSl be despatched gratis to the Agents without delay. Advertisements for poor immigrants inserted gratis. "Standard" Court, 116 & 118, Calle San Martin. c 2 36 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISER. PROVINCIAL BANK OF BUENOS AYRE8. BUSINESS HOURS, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. DEPOSITS of not less than than gdOO m/c and 16ftes. received. These deposits will not be entitled to interest if retired before the expiration of sixty days from the date of such deposit ; after sixty days they will be entitled 'to interest from the date of the deposit. All interest not ' collected shall at the end of each year be capitalised. All deposits at interest shall be entered' in a book which the Bank will deliver to the depositors, in which all payments of interest and capital shall be entered, and all interest shall be payable after the first of the month, or on returning the deposit. The Bank discounts bOls with two signatures, having from seven to ninety days to run ; it also discounts mercantile bills of from seven days io six months, on the condition that at maturity they are paid in full. The Bank draws at three days' sight upon the following Branches, charging only ^ per cent, commission : — CHASCOMUS, TANDIL, 25 DB MAYO, EXALTACION DE LA CEUZ, SAN PEDKO, PERGAMINO, LAS FLORES. SAN NICOLAS, CHIVILOOY, MERCEDES, LOBOS, SALTO, AZUL, DOLORES, BARADERO, - The Branches also draw upon the Central Bank at sight, and at the same rate ; and upon each other at eight days' sight. The Bank pays commission to Brokers on the first discounting of bills and promissory notes. LOANS TO THE WORKING CLASSES. The Bank lends to artizans and operatives sums from Three to T'wenty ^ Thousand Dollars, on their own signature, taking as security a document with any well-known signature. CREDITS IN ACCOUNT CtTRRENT. 1st. The Bank opens Accounts Current or Commercial House. RATES OF INTEREST. ALLOWS Private Depositors, 6 per cent, per annum m/c. ' „ „ „ specie. To Private Depositors, in account current 4 per cent, per annum do. JJ J) M )) *^'^^- CHARGES Discounts in currency, 8 per cent, per annum. „ in specie, 8 „ „ E. V. ZAMUDIO, Secretaet. July 1,IS73. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISBE. 37 THE LAEGEST AND BEST ASSOETED LIBRARY, STATIONERY, and MUSIC STORE IN MONTEVIDEO. lOlA, CALLE DE ZAYALA, MONTEVIDEO, HAS CONSTAHTLT ON HAKD A LAEGE ASSOETMENT OP '$i{aixq, BsmMc, ^btttrfionsl, anir €hmal "Moth m ENGLISH, FRENCH, GhERMAISr, SPANISH, ITALIAN, AND OTHER LANGUAGES. LAEGE STOCK of the best ENGLISH STATIONEEY. i W S I €, /a MuTHOrS, EXBEOISES, AKD FANTASIAS OP ALL CLASSES FOB PlANO, ViOLHI, Flute, HABMONroM, &o., &c. Complete Opeeas foe Voice, Piano, Violin, and Flute. English Songs. .A.Gr-EKTC'Z' FOU TUB ST-A.Isrr>.A.I?,ID.' The latest Publications are leceived by each Hail, 38 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISBE. HOTEL DE PROYENCE, MONTEVIDEO. Pbopbietobs: Messrs. J. PfiEES & CO. Banquets of all kinds, Balls, Suppers, Picnics, Soirees, &c. supplied in the most recherclie style. Apartments for FAMILIES at Moderate Prices. Board and Accommodation by tlie Day, for Travellers passing thrDngh the City, 60 ps. Monthly Board, 750 ps. per month. An Assortment of the finest Wines, of all classes. 25 TEARS ESTABLISHED. The Best, Fastest, and most Commodious I?,IVER 8TEA.MER8 are daily despatched for ROSARIO, SANTA FE, PARANA, PARAGUAY, C0RRIENTE8, And all the Ports of the Urttguay, From the Agency of MATTIE & PAEEA, No. 30, CALLE CANGALLO. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVBKTISEE. J. DEFRIES & SONS' TABLE GLASS AND EAKTHENWAEE, LAMPS, OHANDELIEB S AND FOUNTAIN S FOR INDIA. By Appointment to Her Uajesty, and Contiaotors to Government. CRYSTAL AND BRONZE CHANDELIERS FOR GAS OE CANDLES, FOB INDIA AND THE COLONIES. ivEJTT ii,am:e» for, evdia. J. DEFRIES & SONS, Estimates for Lighting Streets, Towns, Railways, and Mannfactories with a Light equal to Gas at a much less cost. CONTRACTS taken, and experienced men sent out If required, aa for HIS HIGHNESS THE NIZAM, Secunderabod, India, THE SULTAN, and VICEROY OF EGYPT. '- ESTIMATES AND DESIGNS FREE. **• Cata^gitAS can behad tm a^licatum at the Office of this Eandbooh. I^OIDBRA^TOB .A.ITI3 OTHBE, T^AJ>a.-FS FOR. HvTOl-A.. JUGS, WITH SEPARATE CHAMBERS FOR ICE. GILT DINNER SERVICE, 102 PIECES (CRESTS EXTRA), S.Z 108. OUT AND ENGEATED, HfJjj gaoratimts for % Jitiinjf, ^fMv.^, mH ^all |l»flm. DEFRIES & SONS, Manufacturers of Storert PATENT PERPETUAL AND PERFUME CRYSTAL TABLE POITNTAIN, which, when complete with Flowers and Fruit, forms the most elegant Ornament for Dining-rooms, Ball-rooms, Drawing-rooms, and Conservatories. They are portable, most elepant and new in design, and rich in appearance. Also the COirSBEVATOEY FOUNTAIN, which is quite independent of a service of water- pipes, tanlcs, and other expensive accessories, and, having no mechanism, cannot possibly get out of order. MOST WONDERFUL INTENTION OF TEE DAT. FOUNTAINS! FOUNTAINS!! FOUNTAINS!!! In great variety, from £3 17s. to 100 Guineas. In Crystal and Gilt, for the Dining-room and Drawing-room. In Crystal, Electro Plate, or Gilt, for Conservatories. For the Sick-room can be used with every kind of Perfumed Water. Chemists, Druggists, and Perfumers can make satisfactory arrangements for the Sale of Storer-s PATENT PERPETUAL AND PORTABLE TABLE FOUNTAINS by applyhig to the Manufacturers, J. DEFRIES & SONS, ALSO MANUTACTUEEaS OF TABLE GLASS, CHINA AND EARTHENWARE, SILVER AND ELECTRO-PLATE, Crystal, Bronzed, and Ormolu Chandeliers, Mirrors, and Wall Lights, ENGLISH AND FOEEIGN CLOCKS, MUSICAL AND SINGING BIRD BOXES, WOKKS: LONDON, BIEMINGHAM, AND PAEI8. PRINCIPAL DEPOT, 147, H0UND8DITCH, LONDON (ESTABLISHED 1803). MEDALS : International Exhibition, 1862 ; Paris Exhibition, 1867. Patters Books of Eveht Deschiption. %* Orders must be acctmpa/n-Ud by a BemittaiKe or Beference to a Firm in EngXtmd. 40 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. SAYORY & MOORE'S HOUSEHOLD MEDICINES. PANCREATIC EMULSION AND PANCREATINE (G-E3SrTJI3SrE). , IN" CONSUMPTION, WASTING, LOSS OF THE POWER OF DIGESTION AND ASSIMILATION, the Pancreatic Emiilsion and Pancvealine are the most potent Remedies. AVliere Cod Liver Oil ftiils, or cannot be tolerated by the stomach, the Pancreatic Preparations are the only Remedies that supply its place. PEPTODYN-THE NEW DIGESTIVE, Digrests all kinds of Pood. The FARINACEOUS, FIBRINOUS, and OLEAGINOUS, being a combination of the active principles of the several digestive secretions, Peptic, Pancreatic, &c. Peptodyn (powder) sold in Bottles, from 2s, to 21s. BEST FOOD FOR INFANTS. « THE INFANT PRINCE THRIVES UPON IT AS A PRINCE SHOULD."— i)r. Richardsm. "RESEMBLES MOTHER'S MILK AS CLOSELY AS POSSIBLE." Ur, S. BarJcer on " Bight Foods." This Food is rich in Flesh-forming and Bone-forming Constituents, and supplies in a greater degree than any other kind all that is needed for the healthful growth and development of Children. JEEEMIE'S SEDATIVE AND ANTI-SPASMODIC, Por Cholera, Diarrhoea, Spasms, &c. Diminishes Nervous Excitement, Allays Pain, and Produces Sleep without any of the objection- able symptoms which attend the employment of other Sedatives. In India and other tropical climates it is regarded as a speci/ic for Diarrhoea, Cholera, Dysentery, and Nervousness. "DATURA TATULA," FOR ASTHMA AND BRONCHITIS. " Of great efficacy in Asthma and Chronic Bronchitis." — Dr. Mc Veagh. " I have never known an instance in which relief was not obtained." — Gen. Alexander. " It is a remedy of great power and usefulness." — Dr. Barker on Diseases of Respiratory Organs. As Tobacco, in tins ; Cigars and Cigarettes, in boxes ; and as Pastilles for inhalation, in boxes. ETHERODYNE— Superior to Chlorodyne. (This Title is Cc^yright.) ETHERODYNE is an elegant substitute for Chlorodyne, and far more convenient for use. Its therapeutical properties are Diaphoretic, Antispasmodic, and Sedative. It is a clear, bright, fluid, pleasant to the taste, and readily miscible with water, or any suitable meiatnmm. DR. JENNER'S ABSORBENT LOZENGES Speedily and effectually correct Heartburn, Flatulence, and other evils attendant on an Excess of Acid ia the Stomach. They are eminently serviceable in relieving that form of Heartburn so ' common with ladies during pregnancy. SAVORY Sc MOORE, Cliemists to B.M, the Queen. ff.R.R. the Prince of Wales. H.I.M. Napol&m III. Sis Highness the Khedive of Egypt^ &c. 143, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON. Snlir bg all C^jmiats, gurjjgists, ■sitis StetketpErs. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEKTISEK. 41 , THE FAMILY GROCERY STORE. THE GREATER PART OF OUR STOCK IS RENEWED SEMI-MONTHLY. Importations, direct per Steamer, especially for this Establislunent. 60-CALLE SAN MARTIN -60. OPPOSITE TEE PBOVINCTAL BANK 42 LA PLATA HANDBOOg: ADVEETISEE. CORRALON 11 DE 8ETIEMBRE, Oalle de Eivadavia, Esquina Eio. SPKA6UES' MOWING MACHINES, At 200 PATACONES each. JOHNSTON'S CLIPPER YOUNG EAGLE GUTTING MACHINE. COLLINS' STEEL PLOUGHS, IRON PLOUGHS, HOWARD'S PLOUGHS, LANDMARKS, SLATES, IRON TILES, BALDOZAS, &c., &c., &e. SIX DIFFERENT KINDS OF CORN-SHELLERS, HAY-FORKING MACHINES, CORN-CRUSHING MACHINES, ENGLISH AND AMERICAN RAKES, ROLLERS OF ALL KINDS. PIG-IRON, WIRE, NANDUBAY POSTS, KITCHEN AND FORGE COAL, GALVANIZED IRON AND ZINC ROOFING, ROMAN CEMENT, LIME, STONE PITCH, ROCK SALT, NAILS, SACKS, SHEARS, SHOVELS, TWINE, PAINT, SACKING, POLES, &c., &c., &c. AMERICAN CARTS AND CARRIAGES. The above Articles on Sale at the COEKALOK 11 DE SETIEMBBE, or at our Deposit in Barracas (formerly Llavallol's Estaqueadero). N.B. — Goods delivered, free of charge, at the purchasers' private houses, the Railway Stations, or at the Boca and Barracas, V. L. & E, CASARES. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEKTISEE. 43 Diego C. Thompson & Ca., 71 - RECONQUISTA - 7i UNICOS AGENTE8 EN BUENOS AIRES DB LAS TAMOSAS DB LA TABEIOA DE CHUBB, GAEANTIDAS CONTRA INCENDIOS Y LADEONES, y QUE HAN SIDO PEEMIADOS EN VAELA.S ESPOSICIONES DE EUEOPA. IIEL.OJ-BS IDE OliO DE LA BIEN OONOOIDA FABEIOA DE R S K E L L. 44 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEKTISEB. EMILIO HANSEN, OFFERS HIS SEBVIOES FOE THE WINDING-UP OF ESTATES, SETTLING HEIESHIPS, ADJUSTMENT OF MAEINE AVEEAGE, &o. Correspondent in Ireland, E. M. OAETHT, Esq., Cork. AT THE ESOEIBANIA DE L. M. GONZALES, FIBST PATIO, FROM 3 TO 5 P.M. LIBEERIA EUROPEA, HS^OISTTE-VIIDEO. LIBRERIA INGLESA. DEUTSCH BUCHHANDLUNG. LIBRERIA ESPANOLA. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE. Books in aU Languages. Account Books. Plain and Fancy Stationery. Music. Agency for European Newspapers and Magazines. Bazaar. PRO BONO PTTBIilCO.— LETTERS ftom any part of Great Britain or the United States of America for private parties in the River Plate, may be addressed to Messrs. BEARD BROTHERS, Libreria Europea, Casilla 72, Montevideo, Sonth America, where particular care will be taken of them till called for. I^OVBLS ! N"0"VE!LS ! BEARD BROTHERS. LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. 45 MUEBLES NORTE AMERICANOS, DE 8ALA, DE COMEDOR, Y DE DORMITORIO, PIEZAS DE FANTASIA Y DE GUSTO. JUEGOS DO COMEDOB, HOGAL DE 16 PlEZAS E Pesos 4600 m/c. JuEGOS DE SaLA DE 9 PlEZAS FOEEADOS EN EepS DE LaMA, Pesos 5000 m/c. JuEGOS DE DOKMITOBIO, 10 PlEZAS DE PeBOS 2000 m/o, Pesos 10,000 m/c. JUBGOS DE DORMITOEIO EITOAJONADOS, TODO EN UN CAJON OOMO PABAAKA AEMAELOO EN Pesos 1600 el juego entero. CASA INTBODUCTOKA NOETB AMERICANA BAILEY AND GOMEZ, 76 -SAN MARTIN -76 46 LA PLATA HANDBOOK ADVEETISEE. HOTEL ORIENTAL, Proprietors— T. and E. FEEMNDEZ. This Hotel, the finest in South America, buUt at a cost of £40,000, in the business quarter of Montevideo, near the Port, and adjoining the Bolsa, or Exchange, has Apartments with the; jslXtki^d^nch! is fa.tjl,tlisss. the aocomm:or)-a.tioi^s -a-re sttperb. the cttisine excellent. BOARD and ROOM, ^3 per Day. HOT AND COLD BATHS ON THE PREMISES. CAERIAGES FOR EXCURSIONS IN THE SUBURBS. At Sabta Lucia there is a Bkanoh of this Hotel, much frequented by Families in the Summer Season; it covers a large quadrangle, near the Railway Station, and is only two hours (40 miles) by rail from Montevideo. WILLIAM B. CRANWELL & Co. (Late mCHARD CBANWELL & Co.) €%pxt ^xn^^mb mln §tmxnl "^m^uU, 2 & 3, TOWER EOYAL, CANNON STREET, LONDON, E.G. LONDON ; PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND QUAKING CB0B6.