XJF V Cornell University Library HD9623.C611 My travelogue; sketches and observations 3 1924 002 282 485 jelogue By WILLIAM P. CLARKE ct// TOLEDO, OHIO 1 922 CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY NEW YORK STATE SCHOOL ■ OF INDUSTRIAL AND LABOR RELATIONS THE GIFT OF Amer. Flint Glass Workers Union MY TRAVELOGUE Sketches and Observations Made on a Tour of the Principal Cities of Europe Shortly After the World War By WILLIAM P. CLARKE President of the American Hint Glass Workers' Union WITH ILLUSTRATIONS Toledo, Ohio KRAUS a SCHREIBER. PRINTERS "0) lla^ m.^:ry^ (^ Cornell University Library The original of tiiis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002282485 'TpHlS little volume is dedicated -*- by the author to the mem- bership of THE AMERICAN FLINT GLASS WORKERS' UNION as a token of gratitude for the confi- dence they have reposed in him during nineteen years of service as an official in their behalf. 27742 LIST of ILLUSTRATIONS TfiE Author Cartridges Used in Croke Park Massacre . The House in Which My Mother Was Born . The House in Which My Father Was Born . Scene In Brussels — Dogs Hitched to a Milk Wagoit One of the Glass Plants at Weisswasser . Officers op the German Glass Workers ' Union . View op Schott & Genossen Works, Jena . Museum Containing Collection of Glass at Haida Trade School at Haida The Ruins op Pompeii Mount Vesuvius in Action Charles Dblzant, International Secretary Page 3 37 40 41 47 65 70 72 81 82 99 100 102 CONTENTS Chapter Page I. My Mission to Europe — Its Object ... 13 Found Europe Still UnsettijED .... 14 Discuss Plans for New Offices .... 15 Getting Our Passports Approved ... 16 Eventful Voyage Across the Ocean ... 17 II. We Embark on the S. 8. Adriatic .... 18 The Calm Before the Storm at Sea ... 19 And Land So Par Away From Us ! . . , . 20 Some Other Queer Sights on Shipboard . . 21 "We Reach Southampton and Land ... 22 III. Impressions of London 23 Making Ourselves Understood .... 24 Must Step Lively in London .... 25 Make Tube and Chemical Ware .... 26 IV. S.ome English Glass Factories .... 27 Employes Don't Work ON Saturday . . ; 28 Scientists Study the Glass Industry ... 29 Other Interesting Features Observed . . 30 This Plant Is Old but Still Producing . . 31 V. Memorable Days in Ireland .... 33 A Stroll Amid Historic Scenes .... 34 Then the Croke Park Massacre . . . , . 35 An Interview With Mrs. Pearse . . . .36 How Croke Park Looked After the Attack . 37 At the Birthplace op My Parents ... 39 We Decide, to Stay for the Night ... 40 IIeld Up and Questioned by SoijDibrs ... 42 VI. Scenes and Experiences in Belgium ... 44 Belgium Recovers Some of Her Lost Art . . 45 We Meet Brand Whitlock, FelijOw Townsman . 45 Christmas Spent Away From Home ... 46 LouvAiN, the War-Ruined City . . . . 48 How American Workers May Profit ... 49 At the Glass Workers' Headquarters . . 50 Chapter Page We Visit Val St. Lambert Glass Works Visit to the Glass Works at Charleroi VII. Journey Through Holland and Germany Some Incidents Observed at Rotterdam Three Trades Allied in One Union Hardships in Our Visit to Germany In Coblenz We Meet American Soldiers A Sad and Lonely Christmas in Berlin An Incident op the War Is Told to Us Abnormal High Cost of Everything . VIII. With the German Glass Workers Employers' Objections Are Overcome Invited to Address the Workers . The Glass Industry at Weisswasser Address to Workers in the Market Platz Skilued Artisans in Weisswasser Plant A Perilous Climb up Alpine Heights . A Short Stay in Historic City of Jena IX. In the Land of Fair Bohemia We Eat Our Meals Under Difficulties Amused by an Incident at a Station Czechs Are Dominating Factor in the Nation I Acquire Impressions That Will Last A Gbewsome War Story by Our Interpreter X. Haida 's Glassware Museum and Trade School Work of the Trade School at Haida . He Reached His Destination Eventually Our Stay in Teplitz Is a Pleasure I Undertake to Operate a Press . Vienna the Scene of Great Poverty XI. Our Experiences in Hungary and Serbia Hardships of Travel — Train Facilities Bad Suffer Loss of Suitcase Through Theft Food Was Hard to Obtain in Serbia XII. In Sunny Italy — Beauties of Venice and Bome In the City op Floating Vehicles Sight op American Flag Pleases Best 51 52 53 53 54 55 57 58 60 61 62 63 64 65 67 68 69 72 73 74 75 77 78 79 80 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 •Chapter Page Visit Genoa, the Birthplace op Columbus . At Pisa We See the Famous Leaning Towee Incidents of Our Visit to the Vatican Eare Sights in Historic St. Peter's In the Days op Pagan Rome .XIII. Amid the Ruins op Ancient Pompeii Risk a Journey up Mount Vesuvius Paris and the French BattlepibijDS Ruined Rhbims — The War-Wrecked City . Other Scenes on the Battlepield JXIV. Farewell, Europe — Hail, America! Metric System Is Annoying to Americans . The Horrors of Seasickness Once More On Land Again — The Land op Liberty Applying Sam Gompers' Views on Immigration On! See Who 's Herb TO Greet Us ! And Then at Last the Real Thing ! XY. ' ' Welcome Home ! ' ' The End op Our Journey The Ohio Valley Reception at Bellaire Valuable Data Stolen With My Baggage . Some of the Benefits We IJav# Derived The Office Staff Extends- a Warm Welcome 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 101 103 104 105 105 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 113 115 116 And Now in Conclusion ?" America, I Love You ! ' ' 117 PREFACE At the very inception of my trip abroad I was prompted to write "My Travelogue," in order that our members might be able to travel with me, so to speak, and in this way, if possible, enjoy some of my pleasures and realize with me some of the hardships I had to put up with. While I have never felt that I possessed ability as a writer, nor do I think it now, still I may be pardoned if I record here some of the many complimentary references that have been received from men and women in various walks of life testifying to the pleasant moments spent in reading these articles in The American Flint and also in reading my official report on "Europe's Flint Glass Industry." It would not be possible to reproduce here all the complimentary references given to my official report and "My Travelogue," yet the following will give a fair idea of the impression those documents lave made. A minister of the gospel writes : "I have been reading your travelogue in The American Flint and enjoy it immensely. I have gone with you in all your trav- els and experiences with a deep interest. I wish you success." While attending our annual convention in Sandusky in July, 1921, [ received the following complimentary letter touching upon my European report: "Philadelphia, Pa., July 6, 1921. "Mr. William P. Clarke, President American Flint Glass Work- ers' Association, Sandusky, Ohio. "Dear Sir and Brother: I have just finished your book giving experiences, data and facts of your trip to Europe, and am writing to say that it is the most valuable contribution of relative positions and conditions of the glass industry as between our country and Europe that has ever been my privilege or pleasure to read and digest. It fortifies your Association through its officials with incontrovertible arguments, and I may add has given much information to us for use of a like character. "In closing, it is my opinion that the instructive character of the work is worth considerably more than the expenditure of the Association upon it. Fraternally yours, "John A. Voll, "President Glass Bottle Blowers' Association." President J. M. Neenan of the National Window Glass Workers wrote to me as follows: Cleveland, Ohio, August 11, 1921. "William P. Clarke, President American Flint Glass Workers, Ohio Building, Toledo, Ohio. "Deak Friend Clarke: I wish to take this opportunity to say that I have read your book, 'The Glass Industry of Europe,' and believe it to be the most thorough compilation of data re- ferring to the European glass industry ever compiled, at least, it is the most thorough compilation ever brought to my attention. "I hope to have the pleasure of meeting you at some time in the near future, as I am very anxious to discuss with you some of the matters you refer to in your book. "Fraternally yours, "J. M. Neenan." Ben I. Davis, editor of The Amalgamated Journal, published in Pittsburgh, in an editorial, said in part: "President Clarke has put into book form the result of his recent investigation into the flint glass industry abroad and a wealth of knowledge concerning the flint glass business as con- ducted in European countries. In eighty-four pages he gives a vivid account of his observations and investigations, which touch on every technical phase of the manufacturing of flint glass as well as the economic life of the workers and the political disad- vantages that they labor under. The book gives liberal space to the monetary standard of the various countries he visited, which makes the reader realize how great is the poverty of the people that dwell therein. Yet how they cling to their trade unions and regard them as their only stay and hope. "In setting forth the results of his travels, experiences, ob- servations and conclusions in comprehensive book form. Presi- dent Clarke has not only served his own constituency well, but has given the public a work of reference which will be much consulted." The approval of the delegates comprising the Sandusky con- vention is, of course, my greatest compensation for the labor ex- pended and the time devoted to this great task. This approval is found in the recommendation from the Committee on Officers' Re- ports. In part they say: "We have read with deep interest the foreign report as compiled by President Clarke, which contains in detail a full account of his investigation. The report compiled is a very valuable document for our organization and its members, and we believe that with the information secured that the expense incurred by requiring said investigation is naught as compared with the value of the information to the entire membership of the American Flint Glass Workers' Union. We feel that we would be derelict in our duty to those who have reposed confi- dence in us if we failed at this time to give expression of our gratefulness and appreciation to President Clarke for this most excellent report of his investigation which he has submitted to the delegates, and we commend him highly for the data he has secured." As a further testimonial of appreciation, the Bulb Committee at the Sandusky convention recommended, and the Committee on Law and the convention proper concurred in, the following: "Whereas, The articles written by President Clarke and published in The American Flint for the past seven months under the title 'My Travelogue' have been very interesting and instructive to our members and much favorable comment has been the result; knowing that many of our members would like to have these articles in one complete volume when the series is completed, we propose that President Clarke be requested to arrange that all of his articles shall be printed in one volume and copies sent to the corresponding and financial secretaries of each local union and members of the executive board as well as all other members who may be interested in securing a com- plete copy of same." It would be possible to go on and quote other articles from glass trade publications of this and other countries, as well as compli- mentary references from men and women who take a keen interest in affairs of importance with reference to our industry, but sufficient has been recorded to demonstrate that my efforts hai'e been recog- nized and appreciated by our members and friends to a degree that warrants me in feeling that my labor was not in vain. In concluding I wish to make special mention of the assistance rendered by Miss Kathryn L. Meagher and Mr. E. J. Howard for the painstaking care, energy and ability they contributed while aiding the author in the preparation of this volume. W. P. C. Toledo, Ohio, May, 1922. MY TRAVELOGUE o CHAPTER I MY MISSION TO EUROPE — ITS OBJECT BEDiENT to the mandate of the delegates who comprised the Atlantic City Convention of the American Flint Glass Workers' Union, I journeyed to Europe to make a survey of the flint glass industry with the hope that by securing first- hand knowledge of the situation in the glass producing countries, I could bring back such information as to true conditions in the industry there that would in divers ways aid us in solving those problems that were bound to arise in the not-distant future. To that end the trip was planned for and begun in the late Fall of 1920, and the date of my arrival in Europe was approximately two years after the signing of the armistice, which ended the World War. With a feeling that our members are interested in my European travels, it is my intention to furnish both information and pleasure to those who may read these observations. Knowing of this interest is what justified me in undertaking the task of contributing to The American Flint a series of articles in travelogue form. These articles were so favorably received by a wide circle of readers that the delegates to the Sandusky convention decided they should assume a more enduring form, and consequently they have been incorporated into the present volume. It was my intention to have the first installment appear in the December (1920) issue. Hoping to accomplish this, three hours were spent in an exceedingly cold room in the Adelphia Hotel, Liverpool, England, on Sunday, November 7th, in the preparation of my manuscript. A few days later it was given to a stenographer at Birmingham to re-write in order that I could retain a copy to consult when arranging material for the second edition, but the li MY TRAVELOGUE work was not delivered at the appointed time and, having arranged to depart for Scotland, I requested that the papers be mailed to me there. As usual, out of sight out of mind, and the result was I never received the article I had devoted so much time to writing, consequently disappointment was bound to follow. The time considered most appropriate for making this journey abroad was rather debatable. Those of my friends who were anxious that I derive the most pleasure from it, that could be combined with work on a trip of such magnitude, reasoned that I should put it off jintil spring, at. which time the weather would be more agreeable for traveling and for sight-seeing. However, knowing that spring would bring its own problems and duties, and as all the signs of the times indicated that whatever data could be obtained should be promptly secured, these things urged me not to delay the investi- gation any longer than was necessary. FOUND EUROPE STILL UNSETTLED As the time approached for my departure a feeling of depres- sion seemed to permeate the very atmosphere. Disturbances in different parts of Europe, the hardships of travel, the coal strike in England, absence of svifficient food in certain countries, robberies, inability to speak or understand the languages spoken in many of the countries to be visited, the possibility of being- detained for a Sinn Feiner if I attempted to visit the most distressful country that ever I have seen — Ireland — and many other danger signals were pointed out to me by those who had my personal welfare uppermost in their mind. However, standing betwixt duty and fear I chose, as I always have, and always intend to, to do my duty and meet the other conditions when confronted with them. Having arranged to depart from Toledo on Sunday, October 17, my grips were packed in readiness for the trip. With just as few personal effects as was absolutely necessary to meet the require- ments of a journey of such length and make a presentable appear- ance, and with documents galore, I felt fit for this important undertaking. A devoted wife planned a tempting dinner for the day of my departure, good-naturedly remarkijig, "I'll give you another good MY TRAVELOGUE 15 meal before you go." Surrounded by her and our children, I enjoyed this parting meal with my loved ones to a degr-se beyond expression. When the moment came to say good-bye, it then dawned upon me that for days and nights a pent-up feeling of sorrow had been repressed about as long as it was possible ; and this was soon demonstrated by a flood of tears coursing down the cheeks of each member of the family, myself included. However, I soon became buoj^ed and consoled with the certainty that these saddened faces would be flushed with smiles born of thankfulness upon my return. Reaching the station at the appointed time, I was met by Vice- President Grillooly, Secretary Shipman, Assistant Seeretarj- Cook and Representative Martin, who happened to be in the city and came to the station to see me off. My official colleagues accompanied me as far as Philadelphia, where a conference was to be held in the Lamp Working Department the following day. Promptlj' at three 'clock the train departed and the first lap of my trip was on. DISCUSS PLANS FOR NEW OFFICES Matters of interest to the organization occupied oiir time dur- ing this trip. Having been confronted with problems of moving, and space having been granted us on the third floor of the building in which our offices are situated, much of the afternoon was devoted to drawing sketches and outlining plans that were to be followed in the arrangement for our new offices. The change meant that greater opportunity for convenience and efficiency was to be afforded, but at the same time it was made much against our wishes, as our office space was superior from every viewpoint to that to which we were to move. This task having been completed, and the plans unanimously agreed to, we turned our attention to other problems that would require solution during my alDsence. If was a real executive session and much business was transacted, which occupied our time until 10 :25 that night, when we reached Pittsburgh. There we were joined by Mr. Thomas W. McCreary, who was to be with me on this tour of investigation. Our official party was soon engaged in a conversation of a nature that brought forth L6 MY TRAVELOGUE 'aughter to supplant the solemn expressions that adorned the coun- ;enances of each officer while we labored to agree upon a satisfactory jonelusion for the questions that had occupied the afternoon, and ;his merriment continued until a late hour, when we retired for a Little sleep. GETTING QUE PASSPORTS APPROVED The other officers having to leave the train at North Philadel- phia at 7 :29 a. m., compelled all to arise shortly after 6 o 'clock, md when they had left, Mr. McCreary and I proceeded to map out )ur plans for the two days we would have in New York City. Only ;hose who have encountered the many obstacles that come to one who makes a visit to the representatives of foreign governments can mderstand what we had to contend with in having our passport* 'jised (examined and approved), prior to embarkation. It took the remainder of the first day in New York to visit the representatives )f the British Isles and Switzerland, the latter acting for the jrerman government. The following day found us conferring with those who represented the Belgian, Italian, Czecho-Slovakian and Serbo-Croat and Slovene governments. This compulsory red-tape is much easier to record than it was Eor the writer and his companion to execute. Imagine, if you can, ;he ordeal of two Americans, of Irish descent, attempting to give their past and present histories and future plans to men who spoke the different languages of the various countries ttat I have recounted. Some task — take it from me ! Our time was so taken up with this matter that we had to defer our visit to the representatives 3f France and Austria until we reached London, and as regards my sxperience with the Austrian representative, that would be deserv- ing of special mention if space and time permitted. "When Tuesday evening arrived and the Lamp Working Con- Eerence having been concluded, my colleagues ran over to New york, accompanied by Representative Ludlow, to confer on some important developments and to see us off on our long journey. They took occasion at this time to present both Mr. McCreary and myself with collapsible umbrellas, Vice-President Gillooly acting as spokesman. That this manifestation of good-will was appreciated MY TRAVELOGUE 17 by Mr. McCreary and me goes without saying. At the same time it served to urge us on with greater determination to make a success of an undertaking that Ave realized would mean so much to all the men and women engaged in the flint glass industry of America. Regardless of position — manufacturer and worker alike — we felt they were all interested in the results to be obtained from this survey. EVENTFUL VOYAGE ACROSS THE OCEAN On Wednesday, October 20th, promptly at 12 o 'clock, the ship lifted anchor and after waving a fond good-bye to my colleagues on shore we were soon out on that great expanse of water which is so frequently referred to as the trackless ocean. It was, I believe, recognized as such previous to the dauntless courage of Christopher Columbus, the discoverer of America, on October 12, 1492, and I can truthfully say that while I always admired him for his achievement, now, since my own voyage, the undertaking and accomplishments of that matchless mariner hold a firmer place in my estimation than they have heretofore. He certainly had his nerve. I derive this lesson from Columbus ' great achievement, that when obstacles confront me in future years I can take another notch in my girdle and with the fortitude of the great discoverer as an inspiration, go forward with greater determination than if I had not had the experience of crossing the ocean. The distance from New York to Southampton is 3,212 miles, and it required a ten-day voj'age, during more than nine of which no land was seen. Just think what that means, and, if it means so much now, what did it mean before the ocean was charted, so to speak, more than 428 years ago ! As I write this article I am in Brussels, Belgium. It was begun on Friday, December 3d at 11 :30 p. m., and it is now 2 :30 a. m., December 4th. The task of writing without a typewriter compels me to conclude for the time being. Bon Jour. K5 I CHAPTER II WE EMBARK ON THE S. S. ADRIATIC N THE foregoing chapter I reviewed the preliminary steps in connection with my journey to Europe and parted with the reader in narrating my observations as our steamer started away from the port of New York. Knowing that nine or ten days would elapse before my feet would again touch land, I set about to make things as convenient a,nd comfortable as possible in a stateroom that held few charms, for it was not what I expected it would be when I planked down $550.00 (I having procured the tickets) for passage for Mr. McCreary and myself. The steamer we booked passage on was the Adriatic. We were issigned to Stateroom No. 231, and in the dining room I had chair S'o. 318, while my companion was seated next to me on chair No. 328. The table was No. 52. The Adriatic is an excellent vessel, md it glides through the waves so easily that it has been dubied ;he "old ladies' boat." After partaking of a fair meal we made a round of the vessel. [t is 709 feet in length and has seven decks. The motor power is :urnished by two engines of 8,000 horsepower each, with two driv- ing shafts 17 inches in diameter and 300 feet in length. It has not Deen necessary to repair either of those shafts since they were installed twelve years ago. The boat is equipped with "rockers," jvhich are intended to serve on a vessel in the same capacity as shock absorbers do on an automobile. After inspecting the quarters of those who took second and ;hird-elass passage, Room No. 231 looked much better to me. The passengers traveling in the different classes are divided, those Dooked as second and third class not being permitted to go on the ^ MY TRAVELOGUE 19 deck occupied by those who have taken first-class passage. A large iron grating divides the first and second class on the promenade deck. THE CALM BEFORE THE STORM AT SEA The weather at the outset of our voyage was ideal. After a good night 's rest on our first night aboard we rose to find the ocean as smooth as the "beautiful Ohio." This favorable weather con- tinued until Friday, when we discovered that it had rained during the night previous and our clothes were wet, owing to the fact that the port hole had been left open. This caused us no little incon- venience, but, like good sailors, we bore it without complaint. On Fridaj^, Mr. McCreary suggested that I call for our mail. He was joking, of course, but I followed his suggestion in order to continue the joke, and to our surprise was rewarded by receiving two letters — one from my brother John, of Central Falls, R. I., and the other from Mr. V. G. Wicke, President Imperial Glass Com- pany, Bellaire, Ohio, both expressing the wish for a pleasant voyage. Before departing from Toledo I was fortunate in being able to obtain much data from the Department of Foreign Commerce relative to the glass industry abroad. Studjdng over these docu- ments occupied much of my time, and all to good advantage. Saturday morning I arose feeling somewhat ill. The boat was rocking slightly. Towards evening we encountered a storm, which gradually grew more severe. On rising Sunday morning I saw that the storm was raging fiercely, and the vessel tossing and heaving on the ocean's billows. Having. heard that one should not omit eating meals under these conditions while at sea, I attempted to follow that advice, but was forced to quit the breakfast table and retire to my bunk for the remainder of the daJ^ I was compelled once during the day, however, ' ' to feed the fishes, ' ' as the saying is. During my inspection of the boat previously I had noticed numerous railings to hold to, and the thought struck me that they were for "old ladies," but they certainly came in very handy for me when the waves were rolling 57 feet high, so 'twas said. They washed No. 10 lifeboat from the seventh deck. No more "beautiful JU IVi 1 ^l^ K, J\ V Jll U U tf U J^ 3hio," for the " '84 flood" was nothing compared to the Atlantic It this moment. AND LAND SO FAB AWAY FROM US All day Sunday and during the night the storm increased. On Monday morning it had become more severe and the wind was Dlowing 60 miles an hour. Chairs, tables, dishes and glasses glided )ver the floor. I managed to get away from my bunk, but did not venture near the dining room. I was not alone, however, in my lack )f desire for food, there being many others. Towards evening signs of subsidence of the storm began to show on the troubled waters and I partook of a little food, the first in two days. Tues- iay, to our relief, the storm was over, it having lasted three days. The ' ' old timers ' ' on board declared it to be the worst in all their experience in ocean travel. I had been very happy the first few days, for the reason the weather was fine and I was securing a much needed rest, but when :he storm was at its height I gave vent to the words that "Europe nust have been an awful place to live in or Columbus would not lave undertaken such a distressing journey to get away from it." On board the vessel they print a small newspaper called the 'Ocean News," which contains items received by "wireless." A.mong the important news dispatches in the issues printed on our s^oyage were those dealing with the coal strike in England and the ileath of Lord Mayor MacSwiney of Cork, Ireland, he having died a martyr to the cause of Irish freedom, this being the culmination Df his hunger-strike lasting 74 days. The future historian, it seems to me, will certainly accord to Terence MacSwiney a tribute that will cause his memory to be enshrined in the unfading recollection 3f the peoples of all nations who are called upon to fight for free- dom. He will take his place with those other martyrs to the cause; Robert Emmet, Padraic Pearse and countless others. Getting back to the events of our voyage, I might mention here one occurrence that is worth recording. One of the engines had broken during Tuesday night and we were compelled to proceed for about six hours with the service of only one, this causing us to lose time. The other engine ran nine days without a pause. M Y T.R A V E L G U E 21 SOME OTHER QUEER " SIGHTS" ON SHIPBOARD The trip across, however, had its humorous features also, for on the following day two ladies appeared on the promenade deck in riding habits. We looked in vain for their ponies, after which I concluded they had more clothes than sense. At dinner the same two appeared dressed as school girls, but my judgment told me that it had been many years since they had seen the inside of a school. Their hair appeared to be flying loose down their backs without as much as a hair ribbon, and their dresses far above their knees and bare limbs. Heads were turned in their direction so rapidly that one could almost hear vertebras jump from their proper positions. This was rather an unpleasant place for a modest man to be in. At the same time it showed a lack of judgment on the part of these members of the fair sex, who thus exposed them- selves to ridicule from their fellow travelers. On Thursday morning all on board were very happy again. The weather was pleasant and we had only one more night before we reached our destination. The grandeur of the moonlight at se'a cannot be described, and this was enhanced all the more as the ocean now was as smooth as glass. Also my wish to visit the engine- room and see the stokers at work was gratified. About 20 feet below the water 's edge we found the boilers. One has almost to be a steeple jack to descend into the pit. Here the heat suffered and the labor that is done almost baffles description. Having learned that we would stop at Cherbourg, France, on Friday morning at 6 o'clock, I arose before 5 in order to obtain a bird's-eye view of the city. It was a fine morning and the sleep sacrificed was not regretted, especially when it gave me an oppor- tunity to purchase a copy of "The Chicago Tribune" at a cost of 17 cents. Bear in mind, however, this paper was printed in Paris, and not in Chicago. The 17 cents seemed like a charge against our inability to understand the French language, but in reality it went to the support of the little bare-headed girl who was required to be up so early in the morning and out on a tug to meet our steamer. 22 MY TRAVELOGUE WE REACH SOUTHAMPTON AND LAND We departed Cherbourg at 8 o 'clock and reached Southampton, England, at 2 o'clock Friday afternoon. There we parted with friends, had our passports and baggage examined, cabled the office of our arrival and then boarded an English train and were in London at 6 :15 to begin a struggle with foreign tongues, foreign money and conditions foreign to native-born Yankees — all of which will be dealt with in later chapters. CHAPTER III IMPRESSIONS OF LONDON HE DISTANCE from Southampton, where our steamship docked, to London is 80 miles and the fare $6.32, or practically eight cents a mile. Yes, we rode first class. In former times there were three classes of railway travel throughout England — first, second and third, but second class has been discon- tinued. The construction of the trains here, especially the coaches, appears decidedly queer to one who is accustomed to travel in America. The passengers ride in compartments in which there are seats for six persons — three are seated facing in the direction the train is going and the other three seated opposite and riding backwards. There are some people in America who say they cannot ride back- wards in a train. If this be so, then these people had better stay away from English railways. Taking a subway train from the London station at 6 :15 p. m., we were soon at Piccadilly Circus — a famous square in London — which was brought prominently to our attention during the days of the war in the song, "It's a Long Way to Tipperary. " The reader will recall the words : ' ' Good-bye, Piccadilly ; farewell, Leicester Square. ' ' I'rom here we went in search of a hotel. The Carlton was filled, but we found accommodations at the Victoria for three days at the rate of $7.78 per day, two in a room, without bath, meals extra. Our clothes unpacked and the necessary primping completed, we were ready for an agreeable change in our menu, having become tired of that provided on board vessel. We were advised that Sherry's was a good place to eat. It is a renowned cafe in London. In about ten minutes we were there. 24 MY T K A V Jj; li U l:^ U JHJ At the entrance we were received by a Swiss, who escorted us to a cloakroom presided over by an Englishman, and by him were directed to the dining room, where we were ushered along by an Italian, who seated us at a table conspicuous for its attractive loca- tion, handed us a bill of fare printed in French, and then our fun began. MAKING OURSELVES UNDERSTOOD As it was Friday evening, meat was not acceptable to my com- panion or myself. The name of the place indicated that the pro- prietor likewise would abstain from meat on this day, but so many tongues were spoken that were strange to that which would be expected from "Sherry," that I concluded he had sold the use of his name to representatives of nearly every nation. Unable to make ourselves imderstood, the Italian ran to the kitchen and returned with six dressed chickens on a tray. With signs he indicated that we could have fried chicken. This added insult to injury, for our appetites were being enlarged as the per- formance continued. Six waiters of as many different nationalities were called to our table, but it seems none of them understood English. Finally Mr. McCreary made signs to indicate a fish swimming, and lo, the problem was solved. Here it may be well to give an outline of the difficulties encoun- tered during our handling of English money. Without a doubt the various coins are more confusing than any with which we have come in contact, the money of all other countries being computed on the decimal system. This table gives some idea of the English coins ' valuation : American American English Money Equivalent English Money Equivalent One Penny $ .02 One-half Crown $ .60 Three pence .06 Ten Shillings 2.40 Sixpence .12 One Pound (£) 4.86 Shilling .24 One Guinea 5.10 Florin (2 bob) .48 There are other denominations, but enough have been men- tioned to give an idea of the computations involved. When mak- ing a purchase costing an amount less than 24 cents the price is M Y TRAVELOGUE 25 quoted in pence (pennies or ha'pennies), but an expenditure of from 24 cents up to $4.85 is stated in shillings and pence, while $4.86 or more is stated in pounds, shillings and pence. For ex- ample, a purchase in American value of $5.20 would be stated by the clerk sajdng "one pound, one shilling and five pence." London is an interesting city, but it would be more so if the fog could be removed so that one could find his way. I saw the fog when it was so heavy tha,t people had to carry umbrellas and policemen to wear raincoats to keep their clothing dry, while street sweepers used a rubber (similar to that used by a window washer in America) to clear the water from the sidewalks. MUST STEP LIVELY IN LONDON There are no street cars operated in the heart of London. Double-decked busses and the subway ears are the chief modes of conveyance. The women do not wait for a bus to stop but board it or alight from it while it is moving. All traffic is to the left, while in America it is to the right. One must remember this and be on the alert or risk a great chance of being run down by street cars, autos, or some other conveyance. The "bar maids" in England appear strange to those not accustomed to such. You will find finely dressed, good-looking and refined women with their daughters by their side tending bar just as the women of America serve in ice cream parlors. Bar- rooms are open from 12 :00 to 2 :30 and from 6 :00 to 10 :00 P. M. on weekdays. On Sundays they are opened from 12 :00 to 3 :00 and from 6 :00 to 9 :00 P. M. Before departing from America we were fortunate in being able to secure many letters of introduction from prominent Ameri- cans to prominent people in Europe. These aided us greatly. Hon. William B. Wilson, Secretary of Labor, Washington, D. C, Frank Morrison, Secretary American Federation of Labor, Washington, D. C, Michael J. Owens, Vice-President and General Manager Owens Bottle Company, Toledo, Ohio, A. E. Fowle, Vice-President Libbey-Owens Glass Company, Toledo, Ohio, Marion G. Bryce, President United States Glass Company, Pittsburgh, Pa., and Rt. Rev. Joseph Schrembs, at that time Bishop of Toledo Diocese, 26 MY TRAVELOGUE Toledo, Ohio, were among those who favored us. The letter from Secretary Wilson read: "Department of Labor, Office of the Secretary, Washington, October 9, 1920. "To Whom It May Concern: "This will introduce Mr. William P. Clarke, President of the Ameri- can Flint Glass Workers' Union, a gentleman who is held in high esteem by his business associates and by the Department of Labor. Mr. Clarke and I have been friends for many years, and I know him to be a man worthy of every confidence. He is about to visit European, Asiatic and possibly other countries on matters connected with the glass industry, and any courtesies that may be shown to him will be greatly appreciated. "Very sincerely, "W. B. Wilson, Secretary of Labor." In London we met the representatives of European and American glass manufacturers, importers, exporters, manufactur- ers in England, officials of the Trade Union movement, members of Parliament, managers of glass factories, glass workers and many others, who aided us in our labor ; all of which is here acknowledged and appreciated. MAKE TUBE AND CHEMICAL WARE We found only one glass plant in London making ware in which we were directly interested. This was at Blackhorse Lane, where they have two square furnaces with four pots each and one hexagon-shaped furnace with six pots, each pot holding 900 pounds of glass. They were making tubing and chemical ware at the time, and operated a lamp room also in connection with the plant. We were served dinner at the works and were shoMTi through each department by the managing director, Stanley Jenkinson. After spending one week in London, we departed for Liver- pool. From Liverpool we visited St. Helens and Warrington. In the former city we were escorted through the glass plant by a Mr. Fenton, formerly of San Francisco, who told us that, while he had never met me personally, he had a clear recollection of being re- quired to pay $26.00 for talking to me by 'phone ; he being in San Francisco and I in Toledo. I met Mr. Fenton through the kind- ness of Mr. T. C. Moorshead, whom I knew in Alton some years ago. In the plant presided over by Mr. Fenton I saw some strange sights, the detailing of which form part of our next chapter. T CHAPTER IV SOME ENGLISH GLASS FACTORIES HE strange sights which I witnessed in the Cannington-Shaw Works at St. Helens, England, were referred to casually at the conclusion of the preceding chapter. Now I will give further details of the methods of operation in this plant. The Cannington-Shaw factorj' is a hottle house. They have continuous tanks. Bottle shops in England are composed of three men, the same as in America, but the finisher does not trade with the blowers. Some shops were using twenty -two irons (pipes), and the glass was worked so hot that it was necessary to shove the irons in the metal from six to eight inches and each man required to gather twice to secure sufficient glass to make a bottle weighing less than sixteen ounces. After the bottle was blown the pipe was laid on a rack, and by the time it was again brought into use the moiling had cracked off, and this allowed the workmen to have a clean iron without the aid of a cleaning-off boy. The blowers are required to carry their glass about twenty-two feet from the tank to where their marvelor is located. The finisher works on the foot bench and very close to the tank. After the bottle is blown it is placed in a snap, handed to the finisher, and he proceeds to the ring hole in the tank. Then, holding the snap in his left hand, and resting it on the breast wall, he takes a punty in his right hand, dips sufficient glass from the tank to enable him to cast a ring on the end of the neck of the bottle, after which the bottle is finished with a patent tool, much the same as is done in an American factory. They have no glory holes in the plant. 28 MY TRAVELOGUE EMPLOYES don't WORK ON SATURDAY As to the hours of employment, the men work three shifts of 7% hours, or a total of 371/2 hours a week, the week beginning Monday at 6 :00 a. m. and concluding at 6 :00 a. m. on_ Saturday. As Mr. McCreary and I passed through this works we observed three press shops; two were making stoppers and one making marbles, the latter to be used as chokes in the necks of bottles. The pressers gathered, pressed and turned out their own ware. The operation can be described as follows : A ladle having the required capacity is inserted in a. tank filled with glass and the surplus trimmed from the edge by means of a long, chisel-shaped iron, after which the contents of the ladle is dropped into the mould, the ladle set to one side, the mould shoved under the plunger and the glass pressed into the required shape by action of the presser pulling on a wheel in much the same manner as a pilot on a boat turns a wheel to direct the course of the boat. This wheel takes the place of a lever. After the glass is pressed the mould is then opened by the presser, who turns out his own ware, knocks off the cup, closes the mould and proceeds with his ladle. During our visit the management took pride in pointing out to us one of the pressers, remarking that he was the best and most faithful man in the plant, and added that he was both deaf and dumb and also blind in the right eye. It should be understood that this incident is not related in a humorous or flippant spirit, as the individual in question instantly won my sympathy. I am prompted to mention it, however, in order that those who read this volume may not only understand the antiquated methods used in making ware in some European plants, but likewise that they may realize the great handicap of this fellow-craftsman engaged in the industry. The major portion of the children, and many of the men and women of St. Helens, wear wooden shoes. One cannot imagine the noise they make when walking — unless one happens to hear, say, a dozen or more coming to or going from school or work. Tuesday, November 9, found us at Warrington. Accompanied by Mr. E. W. Leister, who contributed some articles to The Ameri- MY TRAVELOGUE 29 can Flint on the subject of "Superannuation" years ago, we called on the Robison or Mersey Company. Here we witnessed a press shop making a steam tight in a block mould, later stuck up on the edge, lifted from the mould and warmed-in overhead in order to polish. Water was used to cool both plunger and mould. This mould was worked without a valve. Thirty years ago the city of Warrington boasted of having 503 skilled glass workers, whereas as I write this less than 140 live in the city and only 40 of these men are working at the glass trade. SCIENTISTS STUDY THE GLASS INDUSTRY A visit to Sheffield the following day brought us in touch with Dr. Turner, who headed a delegation composed of twenty or more to America in August, 1920, at which time they surveyed our in- dustrJ^ Dr. Turner presides over the Research Department of the Sheffield University, an institution that is equipped with all the essentials necessary to make a scientific study of the glass industry from the making of pots to the making of glass and the proper annealing of same. Eight people devote their time to this char- acter of work. Mr. J. W. Rees, who accompanied Dr. Turner's party to America, delivered an address on his return to England, in the course of which he is quoted as referring to "rubbish" being found in many of the plants in America. In the hope that, by using his statement, the manufacturers and workers engaged in the flint glass industry in America will see themselves as others see them, I quote what he was supposed to have said, as follows : ' ' A further point that was noticeable in visiting many of the American glass works was that they are no better than we in this country in obliterating rubbish from the factory. Many of the English glass works were admit- tedly an eyesore in this respect. One found lying all over the place slabs of cullet, heaps of disused bricks and so on. The Americans were just as bad. There M'ere, it was true, a few works which were almost like drawing-rooms in their tidiness, but the average glass factory could not be in- cluded in this category. The general organization of the 30 MY TRAVELOGUE factories, however, struck me as being very good indeed. There was very little waste time in dealing with the fin- ished glass. In this respect they had much to learn from their American friends. The general organization of their works was undoubtedly good. There was certainly very little waste labor. ' ' We also visited Rotheram, at which place we were treated very nicely by those who represented the Betson-Clark Company; but as we are not deepty interested in the making of bottles we will pass over our visit there by saying that this was the most modern plant that we visited throughout England. At Manchester we found something that I had often heard of but had never up to this time witnessed. I refer to glory holes being fired with coal which is fed by the sticking-up boy throwing the fuel through the hole at which he is warming-in. One of the plants we visited was built sixty-five years ago. OTHER INTERESTING FEATURES OBSERVED It was an interesting occasion to visit a plant in which the Furnace proper was fired by means of coal being supplied through two openings in the floor of the factory. In all my experience I lad never seen anything of this character before. Mr. MeCreary and I likewise visited a plant in which there was ao cooling system such as is used in America. So when I observed a presser making a large, plain article that I felt required "wind," I inquired of him how it was possible to keep his mould cold. The press was located right close up to the wall of the factory and the gatherer was carrying the glass a long distance. In response to my inquiry the presser pulled a slide which )pened a hole in the side wall of the factory about 9x12, and it vas really surprising the force of cold air that came through this )pening. Investigating, I found the air current was due to the latural draft created by the stack on the furnace. Upon further nvestigation I discovered the cold air was carried to vents or holes if like character in the floor, and these permitted a finisher to cool lis ware by creating an opening in the floor the size required. This MY TRAVELOGUE 31 showed conclusively in this case that necessity is the mother of invention. Resuming our tour, we soon found ourselves in Birmingham and its adjacent localities, such as Worsley, Stourbridge and Dudley. It was exceedingly pleasing to me, while passing through the plant of Stuart & Sons, to hear a workman call out, "Hello, Billie. " It was Stephen H. Smith, former secretary of Local Union No. 120, who had hailed me and whom I was highly pleased to meet and discuss conditions with. We visited the John Walsh plant in Birmingham, which has been in operation for 120 years. Here we saw the original door through which the tax collector used to enter to weigh glass ware and levy assessment according to weight, after which he would lock the door and seal the lock with sealing-wax, so that when he re- turned the following day he would be in a position to determine whether or not ware had been taken from the lehr during his absence. This, it seems, was the rule that prevailed in England about a century ago. Hom' could such a rule be applied now ? After completing our investigation in the Birmingham district we departed for Newcastle-on-Tyne, at which place we were obliged to visit nine hotels before we were able to secure accommodations. While in this vicinity we had the pleasure of visiting and inspect- ing the Davidson plant, in which a general line of pressed ware is produced. THIS PLANT IS OLD BUT STILL PRODUCING We next visited the Ellison Glass Works, which has been in operation for 130 years. They employ eighteen shops and make quite a complete line of pressed ware. However, only three shops were working on the occasion of our visit. In this immediate vicin- ity is located the bulb and the tube plant at Lemington, where we paid two visits. At Edinburgh, Scotland, we visited the Norton-Park Works. This is the plant in which girls were employed gathering and blow- ing bulbs during the war. At the time of our visit onlj- one girl continued to do this work, and it was verj^ interesting to observe 52 MY TRAVELOGUE ler working from a pot with five men. In all candor I must say. :hat she handled her glass better than any of the men working 'rom the same pot, but this could be accounted for by the fact that •he had been blowing for four years, while some of the men were )nly beginners. Woman-like, she seemed to have a ' ' pull. " I am ictuated to say this for the reason that the manager told us that ihe comes to work late and is rather indifferent as to whether she jroduces according to her ability during the working hours, and 'requently leaves the works before quitting time. CHAPTER V MEMORABLE DAYS IN IRELAND UjpoN resuming our journey from Edinburgh Mr. McCreary ^^ and I went to Glasgow and boarded the steamer Magpie for ^^ Dublin, Ireland. The distance is 220 miles, going south through the River Clyde and across the Irish Sea. Leaving Glasgow at 12:00 o'clock Friday, November 19, we reached Dublin on Saturday morning at 10 :00 o 'clock. The number of shipyards and dry docks along the Clyde, where new vessels are built and ships are repaired, is certainly astonish- ing. Those who have not had the opportunity of viewing these extensive shipyards and seeing the great number of vessels that ply the oceans, lakes and rivers, are unable to understand the size and importance of the shipbuilding industry of these maritime countries. The Irish Sea is considered one of the roughest bodies of water in the world. Being a poor sailor, T knew what to expect, and un- fortunately was not disappointed, for another spell of seasickness made life miserable on this trip. I was unable to leave my room until the engines had stopped and the boat began to glide peace- fully into the dock at Dublin. When T was able to come on deck it seemed as if the very air of Ireland exhilarated me. The feeling that I would soon place my feet on the soil from which came so many noble patriots who have given their lives for the liberty and independence of others, had an effect that cannot be fittingly described. One must have the experience to fully appreciate the surging emotions that come at such a time. 34 MY TRAVELOGUE In a few minutes we were on our waj^ to the Shelbourne Hotel. The route thither took us over the 'Connell bridge, which crosses the River Liffey, which bridge is named after the Irish emanci- pator — Daniel 'Connell. On our arrival at the Shelbourne we found that the hotel looked out upon St. Stephen's Green, a park Located in the heart of the city and the historic spot on which the Irish republicans took their stand when Irish independence was declared on that memorable Easter Sunday in 1916. A STROLL AMID HISTORIC SCENES Most of the afternoon we spent in disposing of mail that had accumulated pending our arrival, in sending communications to interested parties in other cities making knowii our mission, and in systematically arranging to secure assistance when we reached Belgium, one of the chief points of oiir trip. Along toward eve- ning, however, we visited Glasnevin cemetery, at which place we dewed the tomb that contains the remains of Daniel O'Connell, as ivell as a monument erected there to his memory. Here also we stood at the gra^'e which holds all that is mortal of Charles Stewart Parnell, gazed on the last resting place of the Irish martyrs, Allen, Larkin and 'Brien, and paid our respects to those dauntless Irish- nen buried in Martyr Square until darkness overtook us. After partaking of our evening meal Mr. McCreary and I went :ov a walk. Dropping into a small book store to purchase some jards to send to friends, we found the supplj' on hand somewhat scant. On inquiry as to the reason the answer given us was that he merchant knew not what hour the store would be raided by the 'Black and Tans" — the English terrorists — and all the stock de- stroyed; consequently, carrying a complete line was a venture the )wner could not afford to take. An incident that happened here is illuminating as showing the sonditions existing in Ireland at the time of our sojourn there. The hour for the ringing of the curfew arrived while we were in ;he store. Those in charge of the establishment were required to ock the doors and conceal us luitil our purchases were completed. Then we were secretly ushered out through a side entrance for fear MY TRAVELOGUE 35 the place would be raided because we "vvere not ejected promptly at the ringing of the curfew. Such was the terror of British rule. Sunday morning, while seated in the dining room for break- fast, we got our first sight of an English military lorry which raced do\vn the street. It naturally caused us some agitation, but it did not seem to disturb those accustomed to Dublin life. As a matter of fact, those who were observant of us laughed at our being ex- .cited, and in reply to our query they merely stated that perhaps ■there was something going on down the street. So there was, for later developments showed that fourteen English officers had been killed during the early morning. THEN THE CROKE PARK MASSACRE That afternoon we visited Phoenix Park and unconsciously witnessed preparations for the execution of the most cowardly crime that I have ever come in contact with — the deliberate murder of thirteen innocent people and the injuring of from fifty to eighty men, women and children. This crime had been deliberately staged by English officers in Croke Park, where two football teams — Tipperary and Dublin — were playing. The park grounds are sunken and there are elevations outside the enclosure. While the game was in progress machine guns were mounted on these elevations. They were stationed at three places of van- tage. When the stage was set (so T was informed by at least three persons who were in the field when the attack was launched) an airship, hovering overhead, fired a single shot, and in response to this signal all the machine guns were simultaneously turned on ten thousand innocent and unsuspecting men, women and children who had assembled to witness the game. The scene that followed was indescribable. The spectators were mowed down like weeds. That was what the English authori- ties called a reprisal, and those were the things that the civilized world allowed to be perpetrated in Ireland without protest. Yea, crimes far more cruel in their nature than those committed by the so-called Huns in the World War. 36 MY TRAVELOGUE AN INTERVIEW WITH MES. PEABSE At the time that the massacre was taking place in Croke Park Mr. McCreary and I were having tea with Mrs. Pearse, the mother of Padraic and William Pearse, both of whom were executed just after the Easter rebellion of 1916. The Pearse brothers conducted St. Enda's College. They were noted for their scholarly attain- ments, especially Padraic, who was chosen the first president of the proposed Irish Republic, and who read the declaration of Irish in- dependence from the steps of the postoffice in Dublin on Easter Sunday, 1916, which resulted in the rebellion against the power of the English government. Mrs. Pearse, their mother, still conducted the college. In this eollege we were privileged to lay our hands on the block on which Robert Emmet's head was severed from his body, and Ave stood in the room where Emmet had courted Sarah Curran. We found Mrs. Pearse to be as sweet a lady as man ever met — no harsh words crossed her lips. 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