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ALBERT R. MANN 
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The original of this book is in 
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 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924001387111 
 
TO THE 
 
LONDON: 227, STRAND. 
 
THE 
 
 ILLUSTRATED LONDON 
 
 COOKERY BOOK, 
 
 CONTAINING UPWAEDS OF 
 
 FIFTEEN HUNDRED FIRST-BATE RECEIPTS 
 
 SELECTED WITH GREAT CARE, AND A PROPER ATTENTION TO ECONOMY ; 
 
 AND EMBODYING ALL THE LATEST IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CULINARY ART : 
 
 ACCOMPANIED BY IMPORTANT REMARKS AND COUNSEL ON THE 
 
 ARRANGEMENT AND WELL-ORDERING OF THE KITCHEN, 
 
 COMBINED WITH 
 
 USEFUL HINTS ON DOMESTIC ECONOMY. 
 
 THE WHOLE BASED ON MANY YEARS' CONSTANT PRACTICE AND EXPERIENCE; 
 AND ADDBESSED TO 
 
 |trtooU /Antilles as well as tfye Jjigljtst Circles. 
 
 FREDERICK °BISH0P. 
 
 LATE CUISINIEE TO ST. JAMES'S PALACE, EABL GBEY, THE MAEQTTIS OF STAFFORD. 
 
 BAEON EOTHSCHILD, EAEL NOEBUEY, CAPTAIN DUNCOMBE, AND 
 
 MAN? OF THE l'IBST FAMILIES IN THE KINGDOM. 
 
 PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED WITH ENCRAVINOS ON WOOD. 
 
 LONDON: 227, STRAND. 
 
 MDCOOLII. 
 
7/7 
 
 317923 
 
 Lb&DtJN : i. liADUoN PkrofrEit, cAStle stuei-t, fiksbuAy. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The present Collection of Receipts has been selected and 
 
 arranged with much care and a well-directed attention 
 
 to economy ; they are the results of a long experience, 
 
 and /will he found, on inspection, to contain nearly, if 
 
 not all that can be esteemed essential for the production 
 
 alike of a simply or a most elaborately furnished table. 
 
 It has been argued, arid not without some reason, 
 
 that not only is the work of a professed cuisinier above 
 
 the comprehension of a less experienced cook, but that 
 
 the receipts he furnishes will be found too expensive for 
 
 private families. When this occurs, it is the feult of 
 
 the author, who, being only accustomed to dress dinners 
 
 for the highest circles, forgets that the tables of the 
 
 middle classes may be furnished more handsomely than 
 
 in their daily routine, and yet as inexpensively. 
 
 a 2 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 It has been the object of the compiler of The 
 Illustrated London Cookeky Book to avoid this 
 error, and to give to the public receipts, which shall 
 enable them to place excellent and even high-class 
 dishes upon their table, without putting them to a 
 great amount of expenditure. 
 
 It ■will be sometimes found in the body of the > work, 
 that there are several receipts for the production of 
 one result ; wherever this is the case, each receipt 
 presents some feature to make the change in flavour 
 perceptible, and yet, in effect, equally palatable. Tastes 
 without being false vary greatly, — so should made 
 dishes, to meet the difficulty. 
 
 Nearly one hundred and fifty Bills of Fare have been 
 appended to this collection, and, for reasons which, if 
 not sufficiently obvious at a first glance, may in a few 
 words be made apparent, so that their presence may 
 be properly appreciated. 
 
 , In large establishments it is the duty of the cook to 
 present in the morning, to the lady of the household 
 the bill of fare, which he has drawn up for the day's 
 dinner ; she corrects it, substituting such dishes as she 
 may prefer. Of course the cook attends to the order, 
 and the dinner is served as desired ; but in small 
 families the entire selection of the dinner rests with the 
 lady of the household, and whether it be for her own 
 home circle, or for the entertainment of a few friends, 
 
PREFACE. V 
 
 the perplexing question constantly arises, "What shall 
 we have for dinner V A reference to the appended 
 Bills of Fare, which are prepared, with one or two 
 exceptions, that do not require to be illustrated, for 
 every month in the year, will easily enable the lady 
 to select her dinner, while the body of the work will 
 teach the cook how to dress it. The Bills of Fare 
 will be found most profuse for the Summer months, 
 because, at that period, nature favours us with a much 
 more extensive supply of esculents. Each will be found 
 to present an elegant and recherche variety, and their 
 arrangement has been formed with the view of pro- 
 ducing in combination an assimilation of digestible 
 foods. They may be varied at taste, and can be 
 extended so as to dine from two to two hundred 
 persons. 
 
 The illustrations are numerous and useful ; the 
 engravings of kitchen utensils will be found of great 
 service to a lady in furnishing this department. She 
 will be enabled at once to know what will be required, 
 and to order of her ironmonger accordingly. The 
 inexperienced cook will necessarily prove them to be 
 advantageous to her, for she not only has pictorially 
 presented to her the instruments for the accomplishment 
 of her art, but the uses and purposes to which each 
 article is to be applied explained in a lucid manner. 
 The other illustrations will tell their own tale. 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 A copious index has been annexed, arranged so as to 
 facilitate reference to any receipt that may be required. 
 It •will be seen that the number of the page, and not 
 that of the receipt is given ; this has been done to 
 ayoid Confusion in overburdening the memory, and trill 
 be found to obviate difficulty in the finding of a 
 particular dish when needed. 
 
 Wherever improvements, additions, or judicious alter- 
 ations are found necessary in TiiE Illustrated LoMjoft 
 Cookery Book, they -will be attended to in subsequent 
 edition^ but it is believed that nothing has been 
 omitted which can be of service Or importance to the 
 purposes which a Cookery Book is intended to answer. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Preliminary Remarks ix. 
 
 The Philosophy of Cookery 1 
 
 CHAP. I. On Carving 15 
 
 To Choose Meats, Poultry, Game, Fish, and Shell Fish. 
 Articles for the Table in Season each Month . 30 — 84 
 II. Meat Soups, Soups of Poultry, Game, and Fish Soups, 
 
 Vegetable Soups 85 — 61 
 
 III. Meats. Beep 62 
 
 Roast Meats. Boiling. Broiling . . . . 63, 64 
 
 IV. Veal 84 
 
 V. Mutton . . . . . . . . • ; . ■ .97 
 
 VI. Lamb 107 
 
 VII. Pork, Bacon, etc. 113 
 
 VIII. Poultry . 128 
 
 IX. Game, etc *. V . . . .142 
 
 X. Salt and Fresh Water Fish 152 
 
 XI. Sauces 189 
 
 XII. Vegetables, Salads, etc 209 
 
 XIII. Potted Meats 230 
 
 XIV. Paste, Meat Pies, Fish Pies, Puddings, Tarts, Tartlets, 
 
 Puees, Dumplings, etc 237 
 
 XV. Pancakes and Fritters 278 
 
 XVI. Eggs and Omelets 282 
 
 XVII. Butter, Cheese, etc. ... ... 288 
 
 XVIII. Custards, Creams, Ices, Jellies, Marmalades, etc. . . 801 
 
Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 CHAP. XIX. Confectionary, Preserved Fruits, etc 324 
 
 XX. Pickles . 349 
 
 XXI. Cakes, Buns, Biscuits, Bread, etc. ... . 358 
 
 XXII. Coefee, Tea, Chocolate, and Cocoa . . . 372 
 
 XXIII. Home-made Wines .... ... 378 
 
 XXIV. Liqueurs, Beverages, etc. . .... 386 
 
 XXV. Brewing .... 393 
 
 XXVI. Miscellaneous Receipts . .... 401 
 
 Bills of Fare • 411 
 
 The Eotal Kitchen, at Windsor Castle 434 
 
 Miscellaneous. A Funny Half Hour for Cooks . . . .435 
 
PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 The necessity as well as the propriety of well regulated 
 domestic arrangements, cannot for one moment be ques- 
 tioned ; every income has its limit ; the enormous rent-roll of 
 some of our wealthiest nobles has proved unequal to their 
 expenditure, while the limited means of others has not pre- 
 vented them presenting a respectable appearance, without 
 incurring a single debt they could not meet when called upon 
 to pay. From whence spring these opposite results? The 
 answer is obvious, reckless extravagance on the one hand, 
 and a well-organized system of domestic economy on the 
 other. Which is the most commendable, productive of happi- 
 ness, and beneficial to the interest of others, requires no 
 reply. 
 
 The possession of a moderate income has at times been 
 found inadequate to supply the wants of its possessor, 
 difficulty and want have succeeded comparative 'affluence, a 
 miserable beggary followed the descending steps. This 
 wretched state of things is not always the result of a want of 
 principle in limiting the wants to the means to meet them, 
 but of actual ignorance in the judicious management of a 
 household, the mistress of which is fearfully to blame, if she 
 suffers her domestic expenses to exceed her husband's 
 income; it is her duty to know its extent as nearly as 
 possible and provide accordingly. 
 
 Unfortunately, although much has been said and written 
 on the subject, domestic economy does not form one branch 
 of the education of a young lady; she learns, of course, 
 French, German, Italian, Music, Dancing, Drawing, takes 
 
PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 Calisthenic exercises, &c. — accomplishments, with one or two 
 exceptions, of which she rarely takes advantage after her 
 marriage ; hut to hecome a mistress of domestic economy, so 
 that she may prove a valuable wife, and a serviceable mother, 
 is never entertained. That an object so essential to the best 
 interests of those who, whatever their present station, cannot 
 foresee with any certainty what duties they may be called 
 upon to fulfil, should not be permitted to occupy an important 
 place in the list of necessary female acquirements, is as extra- 
 ordinary as it is reprehensible. 
 
 The possession of rank or wealth, not liable to vicissitude 
 or change, may supersede the necessity of an intimate know- 
 ledge of domestic economy, such as would be required by a 
 lady, who, knowing that her husband's income will not admit 
 of extravagance, keeps the household expenses within its 
 limit: yet even rank and wealth are not exempt from the 
 bitter change consequent upon ruinous losses* overwhelming 
 debts, &c, and in their strait severely feel the ignorance 
 that prevents them knowing how and where to curtail their 
 expenses with advantage to their narrowed circumstances. 
 Surely there can be no degradation for a lady to know how, 
 in an emergency, to supply the place of her cook, should any 
 unforeseen accident cause her absence; there must be an 
 advantage too even should such an event not arise, for the lady 
 to know how a dinner should be cooked and served up. Were 
 it simply a question of degradation, abundant instances could 
 be furnished of some of the noblest and highest in the most 
 civilized countries in Europe, both in ancient and modern 
 times, taking a delight in cultivating a knowledge of the 
 noble art of Cookery ; the point, however, is too absurd to 
 reason on, it does not admit of argument. 
 
 Thus prompted, we trust by laudable motives, we address 
 ourself to the young housekeeper. We assume the gaieties 
 and festivities of her marriage are over, the honeymoon passed, 
 the wedding visits paid, and she is left in comparative quiet 
 to look around her in her new home; she desires to enter 
 earnestly, and seriously upon the new duties, which in her 
 new position she has undertaken, and which by a solemn 
 pledge she is bound to fulfil to the best of her ability. 
 
PREFATORY REMARKS. XI 
 
 Her first and imperative duty is to make herself acquainted 
 with the extent of her husband's income, its resources and its 
 limits, and to resolve with firmness to regulate her household 
 with such prudent and proper economy as not to exceed it. 
 
 From this resolution, as she hopes for the maintenance and 
 continuance of a happy home, Unshaken by creditors, un- 
 threatened by poverty, let no consideration, no ridiculous 
 pride, no assumption of a position beyond her means, suffer 
 her to depart ; her future Welfare, and that of her husband and 
 children, depend in a great measure upon her perseverance in 
 this determination. This being done, she should next see to 
 the state of her household, its aspect, and its resources. 
 
 The furniture With which a house is adorned is a matter of 
 taste and means ; on this point it is not our province to speak, 
 we would merely suggest, that comfort be first considered, 
 Ornament afterwards, and that whatever article in this branch 
 Of 1 household necessaries be purchased, let it be rather done 
 With respect to its goodness and usefulness than its cheap- 
 ness. 
 
 However unromantic it may be, it is a certain fact, that the 
 happiness of life is not a little dependent upon the stomach; 
 so the professors of medicine teach us. As all our ailments, 
 save fractured limbs and wounds from instruments, proceed 
 from a disordered stomach, so very much of our domestic 
 comfort proceeds from the arrangement and regularity of the 
 daily meal. This is a point strongly to be considered. The. 
 appetite is dependent upon the health, the health upon the 
 proper and regular supply of food, which should be as much 
 Varied as possible. Nothing so soon palls the appetite as 
 sameness of diet, nor so immediately injures the health, for 
 by being palled the appetite declines and the body suffers. 
 Without health there is little comfort, without comfort no 
 real happiness. Thus eating and drinking, under a proper 
 control, should be our first consideration, and being one of the 
 essentials requisite for health and happiness, so it becomes the. 
 young housekeeper to look to the appointments of her kitchen. 
 
 u What to cook, how to cook, and when to cook it," will 
 first present itself to her, and then, " the appliances to boot,". 
 the wherewithal to do it with. 
 
Xil PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 A kitchen should always be well furnished; there is no 
 necessity that it should be profusely so, but there should be a 
 sufficiency of every thing which can aid in producing the 
 dishes preparing, with the success which is so essential to the 
 gratification of the palate. A good workman cannot work 
 well with bad tools, neither can good cooks do justice to their 
 proficiency, if they possess not the necessary utensils suitable 
 to the various modes of cooking. And when this important 
 point has been realized, cleanliness in every article used should 
 be scrupulously observed; no utensil should be suffered to be 
 put away dirty, it not only injures the article itself materially, 
 to say nothing of the impropriety of the habit, but prevents 
 its readiness for use on any sudden occasion. No good cook 
 or servant would be guilty of such an act ; those who are, do 
 so either from laziness or want of system, or a nature 
 naturally dirty ; if a very strong hint will not suffice, it is of 
 little use speaking out, for it would be the result of a bad 
 habit, that no talking in the world would cure. A servant 
 who is inherently dirty or slovenly, should never be retained, 
 it is better and easier to change frequently until the mistress 
 is suited, however unpleasant frequent changes may prove, 
 than Quixotically attempt to cure a person of this description. 
 Cleanliness is the most essential ingredient in the art of 
 cooking, and at any personal sacrifice should be maintained in 
 the kitchen. 
 
 The fixtures or fittings of a kitchen depend upon the 
 builder, and in modern houses sufficient attention is paid to 
 the situations of the range, dresser, larder, &c. to embody 
 convenience. We have therefore, no intention of expounding 
 new theories or Utopian schemes for reducing the arrange- 
 ment of a gigantic kitchen for a club to a small one for a 
 household; the ironmonger, if one who has an extensive 
 business, will readily give all the necessary information 
 required, to substitute improvements for old fixtures found to 
 be inconvenient ; and as space is valuable, we will not enter 
 into a description which we cannot but feel would be 
 superfluous. We however, give engravings of several 
 varieties of stoves, each presenting separate merits, and we 
 leave to those who consult our oracle to select the one which 
 best suits their kitchen and their circumstances. 
 
PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 X1U 
 
 In furnishing a kitchen there should be everything likely to 
 be required, but not one article more than is wanted, un- 
 necessary profusion creates a litter; a deficiency too often 
 sacrifices the perfection of a dish, there should be a sufficiency 
 and no more. The following articles, of which we have given 
 engravings, are requisite : we are indebted for nearly all the 
 drawings to the courtesy of Messrs. Benham, ironmongers, 
 Wigmore Street, Cavendish Square. 
 
 1. Wafer Tongs. The thin, crisp 
 cakes, called wafer cakes, usu- 
 ally eaten with ices, are made 
 with this instrument. The paste 
 is rolled very thin, and 1 placed 
 between the flat plates of the 
 tongs, which have been pre- 
 viously heated on the hot plate 
 or range hob. They are pressed 
 tightly in this for a few minutes, 
 and when taken out are tho- 
 roughly baked, and bear the 
 impress of the pattern of the 
 tongs. 
 
 2. Hot Water Dish with double 
 bottom, to be filled with hot 
 water for serving up joints 
 which are liable to be quickly 
 chilled. 
 
 3. Mortar. Made in iron, brass, 
 earthenware, marble, &c. 
 
 4. Pestle. Made of the same ma- 
 terial as mortar; or, which is 
 better than either, of lignum 
 vitae. Used for pounding sugar, 
 spices, and other ingredients of 
 the culinary art. 
 
 5. Wood Block, or Stand, for ditto. 
 
 6. Baking Plate. A loose tray, 
 
 made to fit the oven, to contain 
 
 small pastry, &c, which may 
 
 require careful removal. 
 «- 
 
 7. Water Filter. For purifying 
 
 cistern water for the table. 
 
 No. 8.— Dish Cover. 
 
 Wire Dish Cover, to protect meat, 
 pastry, &c, from flies and dust 
 in the larder. 
 
XIV 
 
 PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 9. Benham's Patent Freezing Ma- 
 chine, by which creams, &c. can 
 be frozen fit for the table in five 
 minuted, with the greatest ease 
 and certainty. Wine can also 
 be iced by the machine.. 
 
 No. 9.— Benham's Patent Freezing 
 Machine. 
 
 No. 10.— Tin Canister. 
 
 No. 11,— Coffee Canisiar. 
 
 10. Tin Canisters or Boxes, for the 
 
 11. storeroom, to contain tea, coffee, 
 
 12. sugar, biscuits, rice, &c. The 
 
 13. covers fit very_ tightly, -to ex- 
 
 clude the air. They are fre- 
 quently lettered in front to dis- 
 tinguish them. 
 
 No. 12 — Sugar Canister, with Drawers. 
 
 No. 13.— Biscuit Canister. 
 
 No; 14.— Ice Mould. 
 IP f 
 
 airi' 
 
 No. If.— Automaton Coffee Roaster. 
 
 14. Ice Mould. lee creams or water 
 , ices, after being frozen in the 
 
 machine, No. 9, or otherwise, 
 are shaped in this mould to go 
 to table. 
 
 15. Automaton Coffee Boaster, for 
 roasting coffee in small quanti- 
 ties, and with precise accuracy. 
 It revolv«i by ®!©ekwork, and 
 is placed before an ordinary 
 parlour fire. 
 
PBEFATOBY REMARKS. 
 
 XV 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 No. 18.— Digester. 
 
 16. Baldwin and Co.'s Potato Steamer 
 and Cover, for cooking potatoes 
 without water, The advantages 
 derived by this method of dress- 
 ing potatoes above the usual 
 one of boiling, steaming, or 
 roasting, are viz. — the extract- 
 ing of the Water and fixed air, 
 leaving the potato a wholesome 
 and nutritious vegetable. The 
 potatoes must be placed unpeel- 
 ed into the inner eylinder, the 
 cover being fixed on closely, 
 after which it mUSt be put on a 
 moderate fire, and in forty-five 
 minutes, without the least at- 
 tention, they will be fit for use. 
 
 17. Saucepan Digester. 
 
 18. Baldwin and Co.'s Digester. The 
 great importance of this valu- 
 able utensil, the digester, not 
 
 only to poor families, but to the public in general, in producing a 
 larger quantity of wholesome and nourishing food, by a much 
 cheaper method than has ever been hitherto obtained) is a matter 
 of such serious and interesting consideration! Hi cannot be too 
 earnestly recommended to those who make economy in the support 
 of their families an object of their attention. The chief, and 
 indeed the only thing necessary to be dofie, is to direct a proper 
 mode of using it to most advantage ; and this mode is both simple 
 and easy. Care must be taken in filling the digester, to leave 
 room enough for the steam to pass off through the valve at the top 
 of the cover. This may be done by filling the digester only three 
 parts full of water and bruised bones or meat, which it is to be 
 noticed are all to be put in together. It must then be placed near 
 a slow fire> so as only to simmer (more heat injures the quality), 
 and this it must do for the space of eight or ten hours. After 
 this has been done, the soup is to be strained through a hair 
 sieve or cullender, in order to separate any bits of bones. The 
 soup is then to be put into the digester again, and after whatever 
 vegetables, spices, &c, are thought necessary are added, the whole 
 is to be well boiled together for an hour or two, and it will be 
 then fit for immediate use. In putting on the lid of the digester, 
 take care that a mark, thus (X) on the lid, is opposite to a similar 
 one on the digester. The digester may also be obtained to contain 
 ftom four quarts to ten gallons. There are also saucepan and 
 stewpan digesters, to hold from one to eight quarts. 
 
XVI 
 
 PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 No. 19. — Stewpan Digister 
 
 19. Stewpan Digester. 
 
 No. 20. — Ice Safe, or Refrigerator. 
 
 20. Ice Safe, or. Refrigerator. A 
 double bodied chest for pre- 
 serving and cooling wine, fruit, 
 vegetables, meat, pastry, &c, 
 indoors in hot weather. 
 
 21. Fish Scissors, for cutting and 
 trimming fish. 
 
 No. 21. — Fish Scissors. 
 
 No. 22 — Fire Stewpan. 
 
 22. Fire Stewpan, made with close 
 fitting cover, on the top of 
 which lighted charcoal is plac- 
 ed, to heat the contents more 
 thoroughly and uniformly. 
 
 23. Stockpot and Stockpot Ladle, used 
 for preparing the meat, bones, 
 vegetables, &c, technically call- 
 ed stock, which forms the basis 
 of soups. 
 
 No. 23. Stockpot and Stockpot Ladle. 
 
 24. Cheese Toaster with double bot- 
 tom for hot water. 
 
 No. 24.— Cheese Toaster. 
 
PEEFATOBY EEMAEKS. 
 
 XVll 
 
 5 25. Turbot Kettle, for boiling turbot 
 or other large fish. 
 
 No. 25.— Turbot Kettle. 
 
 26. Fish Kettle, for smaller fish, and 
 Slice, for lifting them. 
 
 No. 36.— Fish Kettle and Slice. 
 
 No. 27.— Basting Ladle. 
 
 No. 30. — Saucepan with loo3e 
 Earthen Lining. 
 
 27. Basting Ladle, and 
 
 28. Dripping Pan, used to receive 
 the unctuous droppings from the 
 roasting meat, and to re-apply 
 them to its scorching surface. 
 
 29. Preserving Pan, for making j ams, 
 jellies, marmalades, &c. 
 
 30. Saucepan, aith loose Earthern 
 Lining, for boiling milk, cus- 
 tards, &c, without burning. 
 
 31. Saucepan, with Lip, for melted 
 butter, grRvy, &c. 
 
 No. 31.— Saucepan with Lip. 
 
XVU1 
 
 PHEFATOKY EEMAEKS. 
 
 No. 33.— Warming, or Mulling Pot. 
 
 SI 
 
 No 38.— Spring Water Ewer, 
 with Ice Tub. 
 
 No. 39.— Trussing Needle. 
 
 No, 40 —Larding Pin. 
 
 No. 41.— Beef Fori. 
 
 32. Sugar Saucepan, for melting and 
 pouring out sugar for ornamen- 
 tal confectionary. 
 
 33. Warming, or Mulling Pot, for 
 wine or beer. 
 
 34. Metal Strainer, for gruel or 
 
 gravy. 
 
 35. Stewpan, differing from a sauce- 
 
 pan in having straight sides, a 
 flat cover, and flat handles, on 
 which account it is more con- 
 venient for many purposes. 
 
 36. Egg Poacher, with a loose inside 
 frame, and ladles to hold the 
 eggs. 
 
 37. Wine Cooler, 'with divisions for 
 bottles or decanters, and inter- 
 stices for ice. 
 
 38. Spring Water Ewer, with long 
 narrow neck and lip for pouring, 
 and Wood Ice Tub, to contain it. 
 
 39. Trussing Needle, for trussipg 
 poultry. 
 
 40. Larding Pin, made with split 
 
 ends, like a cleft stick, to re- 
 ceive strips of fat bacon, which 
 are grafted by its means in the 
 surface of turkeys, poultry, &c. 
 
 41. Beef Fork, for lifting large joints 
 
 in the pot or saucepan. 
 
PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 XIX 
 
 No. 42,— Diahing-up Fork. 
 
 No. 43.— Mincing Knife. 
 
 No. 44.— Saddle of Mutton Skewer. 
 
 sea 
 
 No. 45.— Fritter Mould. 
 
 No. 46.— Mushroom Mould. 
 
 No. 5£«— Omelet Pan. 
 
 42 Dishing-up Fork, for lifting small 
 joints, vegetable^; &c. 
 
 43. Mincing Knife, for chopping up 
 
 meat, suet, and " mince-meat." 
 
 44. Saddle of Mutton SIcewer, for 
 holding this joint on the spit 
 for roasting. 
 
 45. Fritter Mould, and 
 
 46. Mushroom Mould, used for shap- 
 
 ing fritter and mushroom cakes, 
 being heated for the purpose on 
 the hot plate or range hob. 
 
 47. French Cook's Knife, much pre- 
 
 ferred by men cooks, especially 
 to the short, round bladed knife, 
 for cooking purposes. 
 
 48. Poultry Chopper, a strong de- 
 
 scription of knife, thick and 
 heavy, for breaking bones, &c. 
 
 40. Slicing or Larding Knife, for 
 preparing the slips of fat alluded 
 to at No. 40. 
 
 50. Mashed Potato Fork, for beating 
 
 up mashed potato— mttch supe- 
 rior to the wooden gpooh for this 
 purpose. 
 
 51. Beef Steak Tongs, for handling 
 
 steaks, &c, during the grilling 
 process. 
 
 52. Boiling Pot, for the reception of 
 large joints, puddings, &c. 
 
 53. Yorkshire Pudding Pan. 
 
 54. Tartlet Pan, for baking tartlets, 
 &c. 
 
 55. Omelet Pan, a shallow ' frying 
 pan, with shelving sides, for 
 omelets. 
 b 2 
 
XX 
 
 PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 No. 61.— Revolving Gridiron. 
 
 IllllPffWf: 
 
 hHhhB 
 
 No. 62.— Aleat Screen. 
 
 56. Cutlet Pan, a deep frying-pan, 
 with upright sides,, for cutlets. 
 
 57. Frying Pan, requires no expla- 
 nation. 
 
 58. Bain Marie Pan, a shallow pan 
 with false bottom to contain hot 
 water, in which soups, ragouts, 
 &c, are placed when ready for 
 the table, and kept at a boiling 
 heat, but prevented from burn- 
 ing or drying up. 
 
 59. Jelly Bag, made of felt or flan- 
 nel, for straining jellies, purees, 
 &c. 
 
 60. Seasoning Box, with divisions for 
 salt, pepper, or spices. 
 
 61. Revolving Gridiron, with fluted 
 bars, lined with enamel. 
 
 62. Meat Screen, made of wood lined 
 with polished tin, and provided 
 with rack-shelves for dishes and 
 plates, sliding doors at the back, 
 and a lock-up hot closet at the 
 top. It is frequently fitted also 
 with hinged flaps, or "wings," 
 at the sides, to enclose the fire 
 completely. 
 
PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 XXI 
 
 No. 67.— Vegetable Strainer. 
 
 63. American Oven, for baking 
 pastry, bread, or. meat by re- 
 flection only from the bright 
 surfaces of the inclosing sloped 
 plates. The iron cover is to 
 moderate the heat when light 
 pastry or small articles are 
 baked. 
 
 64. Salamander. The round plate 
 
 or blade of this instrument is 
 made hot in the fire and held 
 over pastry, &c, to brown it. 
 
 65. Cook Hold, a two-pronged wea- 
 pon for fixing meat securely on 
 the spit. 
 
 66. Balance Skewer, for adjusting the 
 
 equipoise of joints which cannot 
 be centrically spitted. 
 
 67. Vegetable Strainer, a wire frame 
 made to fit inside a stewpan for 
 removing parsley or other vege- 
 tables when fried in lard or oil. 
 
 68. Egg Whisk, for beating up eggs, 
 syllabubs, &c. , 
 
 69. Daried Mould, a, small shape for 
 jellies or puddings. 
 
 Gum Paste-board, a flat 
 board engraved with 
 various devices or pat- 
 terns, used for stamping 
 or embossing gum-paste 
 ornaments for raised 
 pies, &c. 
 
 71. Paste Cutter, made in great 
 variety of pattern, for shaping 
 tartlets, patties, &c. 
 
 72. Jelly Mould, for shaping jellies, 
 blanc mange, &c. 
 
 No. 72.— Jelly Mould. 
 
XX11 
 
 PKBFATORT EEMARKS. 
 
 73. Baba Mould, for 
 and other cakes. 
 
 baking baba 
 
 Scales. 
 
 As one of the great elements' of 
 success in cooking is preciseness in 
 the proportions of ingredients, the 
 cook should never be without a good 
 pair of scales, and she should keep 
 them in thorough order. In delicate 
 dishes an unequal proportion of an 
 article, inserted only to impart a 
 certain flavour, will ruin the dish. 
 
 The necessity as well as use of scales is therefore obvious. 
 
 Puree Pressep. for pulping fish. 
 
 RANGES, STOVES, HOT WATER APPARATUS, ETC. 
 
 1. The Qacford Boasting Range, the first specimen of which in 
 London was introduced at the celebrated kitchen of the Eeform 
 Club, by Messrs, Benham and Song, of "Wigmore Street, though it 
 has since been adopted in many other large establishments. It has • 
 an open fire, with vertical bars instead of the ordinary and familiar 
 horizontal ones ; but its peculiar excellence consists ia the intense 
 heat radiated from it, and its great economy of fuel— the s/pace from 
 the bars to the back being less than half the usual depth. •. The hack 
 is formed of Stourbridge fire-clay. The size of the fire may be 
 increased or diminished at pleasure ; and the whole of the front 
 opens on hinges like a gate, so as to give ready aocess for the 
 removal of cinders, &c. The boiler for hot water is placed behind 
 the back. 
 
 Behham's Improved Family Range (not illustrated) is made on 
 the same principle as the Oxford Roasting Rangtybut on a smaller 
 scale for families. It has the fire-clay radiating back, iron water 
 
■ PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 XX1U 
 
 boiler, vertical bars, &c, and in addition to them,* a very excellent 
 oven for meat, pastry, or bread heated from the same fire. This is 
 a most useful and economical form of range ; and the consumption 
 of fuel, -we are told, is surprisingly small, averaging only thirty pounds 
 of coal for twelve hours in a moderate sized range. 
 
 2. Improved Smoke Jack, with double movements, dangle spits, and 
 universal joints ; equally applicable to almost every description of 
 range, either close or open. The apparatus is kept in motion solely 
 by the upward current of air in the chimney without springs or 
 weights. 
 
 5. The same as No. 2, with single movements, for a smaller range. 
 
XXIV 
 
 PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 3. Oven and Hot Closet, with separate furnace underneath ; pre- 
 ferred by many professional cooks to those which are heated by the 
 range fire. 
 
 4. Hot Plate and Broiling Stove, with a moveable gridiron, all 
 heated by one fire. The top and front are all of iron, and the 
 draft can be regulated with the greatest accuracy by the sliding doors 
 in the front. 
 
 6. The Oxford Range, with an Oven at the side; heated by a 
 separate furnace — in other respects similar to the Family Range. 
 
 7. Stewing Stoves, heated by charcoal, and therefore requiring no 
 flue. These are considered by many professed cooks quite indis- 
 pensable for some of their more delicate operations, which require 
 a less intense heat than that of the Hotplate. 
 
 8. A Close Range with two ovens, hot closet, boiler, and hot- 
 plate, all heated from one central fire. Pipes can also be attached to 
 carry steam to various kettles and saucepans, for boiling vegetables, &c, 
 if required. The ashes fall into a drawer under the fire. This is a 
 useful and economical form of range, but unless great care is taken 
 it is apt to overheat the kitchen ; and as the chimney is obliged to 
 be enclosed entirely or partially, the ventilation is not nearly so per- 
 fect as with an open range. 
 
 There are, of course, very many other forms of kitchen ranges, each 
 possessing its peculiar merit in a greater or less degree, but these 
 will illustrate the one important feature by which all may be dis- 
 tinguished; they are open or close. Into the question of their 
 comparative excellence we cannot pretend to enter here. 
 
 9. Steam Kettles, for cooking meat, vegetables, fish. They may 
 be of any convenient size or shape ; may be placed at the most dis- 
 tant part of the kitchen or skullery, and the steam conveyed to them 
 by a pipe from the range boiler. 
 
 10. Bainmarie Pan, with a_set of stewpan, soup-pots, and glaze- 
 
PREFATORY REMARKS, 
 
 XXV 
 
 pot, and made with a double body to be heated by steam from the 
 boiler. This is filled with hot water, in order to keep the soups, 
 sauces, &c„ perfectly hot, without burning or drying them up. 
 
 11. The Cottager's Stove is an economical, compact, and portable 
 cooking apparatus, combining a good-sized oven and hotplate. It 
 will cook for a dozen persons with one pound of coal or coke per 
 hour, and the top may also be used as an Ironing Stove. It requires 
 no fixing, has no flues to clean, may be placed in any apartment, 
 and is a great security against fire. There were specimens of these 
 stoves in Prince Albert's Model Houses in Hyde Park; they are 
 specially adapted for cottagers, emigrants, working men, &c, and are 
 also found very useful as occasional adjuncts to private kitchens. 
 
 12. Gas Cooking Apparatus. Contrary to the prejudices of very 
 many, and the early experience of some, it is now found that roasting, 
 baking, boiling, frying, stewing, and broiling may be performed by 
 the aid of gas as effectually as with a coal fire — with much more 
 cleanliness, and without imparting the slightest taint or smell of gas 
 to the food. The apparatus shown embraces all these points ; but 
 they are made of various sizes, and more or less complete, as may 
 be desired. 
 
XXVI 
 
 PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 We have thus given an accurate description of cooking 
 utensils and appliances, the number required must depend 
 upon the position of the head of the establishment, and may 
 be multiplied as necessity requires. 
 
 We will now give a few 
 
 IMPORTANT HINTS TO COOKS, 
 
 Which they will not regret following with attention. 
 
 Let there be a place for every article, and when not in use 
 let every article be in its place. 
 
 Keep every utensil .clean and ready for immediate use. 
 
 The stock pot should never be suffered to be empty, as 
 almost any meats (save salt meats) or fowls make stock; the 
 remnants should never be thrown anywhere but into the 
 stock pot, and should too much stock be already in your 
 possession, boil it down to a glaze : waste is thus avoided. 
 
 Keep your meat in a cool dry place, your fish on ice, and 
 ypur vegetables on a stone floor free from air. 
 
 Cut, your soap when it comes in, and let it dry slowly. 
 
 Keep your stfeet herbs in paper bags, each bag containing 
 only one description of herb. They should.be dried in the 
 winql and not in the sun, and when ordered in a receipt 
 should be cautiously used, as a preponderance in any season- 
 ing spoils it. 
 
 When oranges or lemons are used for juice, chop down the* 
 peel, put them in small pots and tie them down for use. 
 
 Apples. — In choosing apples, be guided by the weight; 
 
PREFATORY REMARKS. XXV11 
 
 the heaviest are the best, and those should always be selected 
 which, on being pressed by the thumb, yield with a slight 
 crackling noise. Prefer large apples to small, for waste is 
 saved in peeling and coring. 
 
 Apples should be kept on dry straw in a dry place, and 
 pears hung up by the stalk. 
 
 Batter for fish, meat, fritters, &c— Prepare it with fine 
 flour, salt, a little oil, beer, vinegar, or white wine, and the 
 whites of eggs beaten up; Avhen of a proper thickness, 
 about the size of a nutmeg, it will drop out of the spoon 
 at once. Fry in oil or hog's lard. 
 
 Carrots, if young, need only be wiped when boiled— if 
 old they must be scraped before boiling. Slice them into a 
 dish, and pour over them melted butter. 
 
 Cauliflowers. — Cut off the stalks, but leave a little of 
 the green on ; boil in spring water with a little salt in it : 
 they must not boil too fast. 
 
 Celery.— Very little is sufficient for soups, as the flavour 
 is very predominating. It should be particularly cleanly 
 washed and curled when sent to table. To curl celery, wash 
 well, and take off the outside stalks, cut it to a proper length, 
 split each stalk into three or four divisions with a large 
 needle, then place the head of celery in spring water with the 
 root uppermost, and let it remain for four or five hours — it 
 may then be tastefully arranged on the dish. 
 
 GrAME may often be made fit for eating when it seems 
 spoiled, by cleaning it and washing with vinegar and water. 
 Birds that are not likely to keep, should be drawn, cropped, and 
 picked, then wash in two or three waters, and rub them with 
 salt ; have in readiness a large saucepan of boiling 1 water, and 
 plunge them into it one by one, drawing them up and down 
 by the legs, so that the water may pass through them. Let 
 them stay for five or six minutes, then hang them up in a cold 
 place; when they are completely drained, well salt and pepper 
 the insides, and thoroughly wash them before roasting. 
 
 Gravies. — The skirts of beef and the kidney will make 
 quite as good gravy as any other meat, if prepared in the same 
 manner. The kidney of an ox, or the milt, makes excellent 
 gravy, cut all to pieces and prepared as other meat, and so 
 
XXV111 PREFATORY REMARICS. 
 
 with the shank end of mutton that has been dressed, If much 
 gravy is, not required. The shank bones of mutton add 
 greatly to the richness of gravies, but they should be first 
 well soaked and scoured clean. The taste of gravies is 
 improved by tarragon, but it should be sparingly used, 
 immediately before serving. 
 
 Lard should be carefully melted in a jar put in a kettle of 
 water and boiled, and run into bladders that have been strictly 
 cleaned ; the bladders should not be too large, as the lard will 
 become rank if the air gets to it. While melting it, put in a 
 sprig of rosemary. 
 
 Mustard mixed smooth with new milk, and a little cream 
 added, will keep ; it is very soft, and by no means bitter. 
 
 Sago should soak for an hour in water previous to using, 
 to take off the earthy taste. 
 
 Suet may be kept for a twelvemonth, thus : choose the 
 firmest and most free from skin or veins, remove all trace of 
 these, put the suet in a saucepan at some distance from the fire, 
 and let it melt gradually ; when melted, pour it into a pan of 
 cold spring water ; when hard, wipe it dry, fold it in white 
 paper, put it into a linen bag, and keep it in a dry cool place ; 
 when used, it must be scraped, and will make an excellent 
 crust, either with or without butter. 
 
 Tongue, which has been dried, should be soaked in water 
 three or four hours. One which has not been, dried will 
 require but little soaking; put it in cold water, and boil 
 , gently till tender. 
 
 Raisin wine may be substituted for sherry, for sweets 
 generally. 
 
 Copper vessels, when the tinning is worn off, must never be 
 used, or the poisoning of those who partake of whatever may 
 have been cooked in them is inevitable. They should be sent 
 to be re -tinned immediately they require it. 
 
 Keep tapes and jelly bags clean, or when again used they 
 will impart an unpleasant flavour. 
 
 All, soups should be moderately thin and bright. 
 
 Meats such as beef, mutton, and venison, must rather be 
 underdone than overdone, excepting veal and pork, which 
 require to be well done. 
 
PREFATORY REMARKS. XXIX 
 
 Fish should be quite done, but not overdone. 
 Pastry must be carefully baked ; ; it should be sent to table 
 a pale gold colour. 
 
 Onions should be kept on ropes in a dry place — a specked 
 one should be removed or it will contaminate the others. 
 Cold water cracks hot iron infallibly. 
 Pudding towels should be carefully washed, and kept clean 
 in a dry place. Put a clean round towel on the jack roller 
 quite as often as necessary. 
 
 Be very particular in not letting your stocks and sauces 
 pass over two days without boiling them up, and be careful 
 to stir the thick soups and sauces all the time they are on 
 the fire, and change all your cold meats into fresh clean 
 dishes every morning, wiping down the dressers and shelves, 
 and if allowed larding cloths see that they are clean. Keep 
 your larder door shut, free from dust and damp ; do not have 
 your baked paste in the larder, but in your kitchen cupboard, 
 and then see to your game larder, wiping and pepperiDg and 
 gingering your venison, arranging the game which requires 
 to be dressed first, and see that all the blood which may have 
 dropped from the game or venison is cleaned from the dressers 
 and flooring. Then see to the vegetables, removing all stale 
 and what is not wanted, giving it to the poor, either as 
 dressed in some way or natural ; do not be over-stocked, yet 
 always keep a little reserve. This will save much trouble to 
 the gardener, and frequently to the kitchen-maid, who will 
 otherwise have to run from her work down to the garden, 
 which, even if she likes it, takes her from other more 
 important things. Be sure to look well every morning to 
 your pickled pork and hams, keep and rub them well and 
 turn them, marking those to be used first ; your fish must be 
 looked to and well cleaned and washed, and if intended for 
 that day's dinner, kept in water until required ; if not, keep 
 it on the marble or stones; your doors should always be shut. 
 Clean hands, always clean hands. 
 
 A dirty kitchen is a disgrace to every one connected with 
 it. 
 
 With these few hints we wind up our remarks, merely 
 adding that many of the receipts here given, which are on too 
 
XXX PREFATORY REMARKS. 
 
 large a scale for a small family, may have their proportions 
 equally reduced, and an excellent dish will be the result. 
 In some instances also, the more expensive ingredients may be 
 left out without destroying the integrity of the receipt, 
 discretion and judgment being alone required in these cases. 
 In conclusion, the mistress of the household will under- 
 stand that the well-being of her establishment depends upon 
 her surveillance ; and though her too frequent presence in the 
 kitchen would be unnecessary and annoying to the cook, yet 
 she should not be deterred from visiting it by any false 
 delicacy, or deference to an absurd custom which makes it 
 vulgar for a lady to visit her cook in her own domains. If 
 the cook is thrifty and clean, she will be glad to receive the 
 praise to which she is fairly entitled ; if dirty and careless, it 
 is very essential that the lady should be acquainted with the 
 fact in order to remedy it by a change. 
 
 " Good housewifery provides, ere a sickness do come, 
 Of sundry good things in her house to have some — ■ 
 Good aqua composite, and vinegar tart, 
 Rose water, and treacle, to comfort thine heart. 
 Cold herbs in her garden, for agues to burn, 
 That over strong heat to good temper may turn, 
 White endive and succory, with spinach enow — 
 All such, with good pot-herbs, should follow the plough. 
 Get water of fumitory, liver to cool, 
 And others the like, or else lie like a fool. 
 Conserves of barbary, quinces, and such, 
 With sirops that easeth the sickly so much. 
 Ask medicos' counsel, ere medicine ye take, 
 And honour that man for necessity's sake : 
 Though thousands hate physic because of the cost, 
 Yet thousands it helpeth that else should be lostj 
 Good hroth and good keeping do much now and then — 
 Good diet, with wisdom, best comforteth man. 
 In health, to be stirring,' shall profit thee best — 
 In sickness hate trouble ; seek quiet and rest. 
 Remember thy soul ; let no fancy prevail ; 
 Make ready to God-ward ; let faith never quail : — 
 The sooner thyself thou submittest to God, 
 The sooner he ceaseth to scourge with his rod." 
 
 Timer, 1710, 
 
THE POETICAL COOKERY BOOK. 
 
 XXXI 
 
 THE POETICAL COOKERY BOOK. 
 
 {From. Punch.) 
 
 TO MAKE PEA SOUP. 
 
 Air, — " Do you ever think of me, Love?' 
 
 Do you like the Soup of Pea, Ma'am ? 
 
 Do you like the Soup of Pea ? 
 Then I'll tell you how to make it, 
 
 If you'll listen, Ma'am, to me. 
 Steep your peas in clean cold water, 
 
 Then boil them in a pan ; 
 Then through a hair-sieve pass them — 
 
 You must boil them till you can. 
 Then tell me, did you ever 
 
 Such a nice foundation see — 
 If you only do it clever — 
 
 For the famous Soup call'd Pea ! 
 
 To some broth that's strong and nice, 
 Ma'am, 
 
 The peas you'll please to add ; 
 And a little well-boil'd rice, Ma'am, 
 
 Mix'd with it won't be bad. 
 Take yolk of egg, and beat it ; 
 
 But, mark my warning word, 
 You with the soup must heat it, 
 
 Not boil it — or twill curd. 
 Then taste, and say if ever 
 
 A better soup you'll see ; 
 And, if you answer, " Never !" 
 
 Eat it, and think of me. 
 
 I'll tell thee how the sauce to make, 
 
 Which gives the dish its name ; 
 Of hard-boil'd egg the yolk first take, 
 
 Then two raw eggs the same. 
 As these you in a basin blend, 
 
 Where salt and pepper are, 
 You'll stir them well — and all will tend 
 
 To make the Sauce Tartare. 
 
 I'll bid thee take a pint of oil, 
 
 And Blowly let it drop 
 Into the whole — but it will spoil 
 
 If stirring it you stop. 
 And with the oil alternate pour 
 
 A little vin-e-gar ; 
 Your task will then be nearly o'er 
 
 In making Sauce Tartare. 
 
 I'd make it thick, but not in clots, 
 
 Then add some gherkins chopp'd, 
 With capers, parsley, eschalots, 
 
 If you'll my plan adopt. 
 A table-spoon of each will do. 
 
 French mustard from a jar 
 You'll add, with Cayenne pepper too — 
 
 And there's your Sauce Tartare. 
 
 TO DRESS EELS A LA TARTARE. 
 
 Air,— "The Light Guitar." 
 
 Oh! leave the cray — the cray-flsh mean, 
 
 The brill, the haddock white, 
 And bring a frying-pan quite clean, 
 
 Of polish dazzling bright ; 
 And place it o'er the flickering ray, 
 
 Above the grate's top bar, 
 Then take an Eel, and leam the way 
 
 To cook a la Tartare. 
 
 111 bid thee first your fish divide 
 
 In bits — from tail to head — 
 Through eggs and flour then let them 
 glide, 
 
 And add some crumbs of bread. 
 Ill tell thee next the whole to fry, 
 
 And on the road you are 
 To that with which there's nought can vie, 
 
 An Eel a, la Tartare. 
 
 TO DRESS HERRINGS. 
 
 Air, — " Meet me by Moonlight." 
 
 Meet me to breakfast alone, 
 
 And then I will give you a dish, 
 
 Which really deserves to be known, 
 Though it's not the genteelest of fish. 
 
 You must promise to come, for I said, 
 A splendid Red Herring I'd buy. 
 
 Nay, turn not away your proud head ; 
 You'll like it, I know, when you try. 
 
 If moisture the Herring betray 
 Drain, till from moisture 'tis free ; 
 
 Warm it through in the usual way, 
 Then serve it for you and for me. 
 
 A piece of cold butter prepare, 
 To rub it, when ready it lies ; 
 
 Egg-sauce and potatoes don't spare, 
 And the flavour will cause you surprise. 
 
THE PHILOSOPHY OF COOKERY: 
 
 HOW WE LIVE ON WHAT WE EAT. 
 
 Doubtless the true province of a cookery book is to tell 
 how to boil, bake, roast, carve, choose provisions, make dishes 
 and pastry, set out the table, and in a hundred ways work 
 up into palatable wholesomeness the daily food. But having 
 in detail gone through these mysteries, we feel tempted to 
 advance a step, and tell our readers something of the making 
 ready of food, that every hour goes on in the great cookery 
 of nature, and how from field and garden, beef, mutton, milk, 
 and grain, are built up our bulk and strength. 
 
 It is curious to note man gathering his sustenance all over 
 the world, how in search of it he fishes and hunts, rears flocks 
 and herds, ploughs, sows and reaps, goes headlong into 
 anxieties, rises early, lies down late, and wears out and re- 
 news his strength. There is no land too stubborn for him, 
 no sea too deep, no hill too high, no zone too burning hot or 
 freezing cold, no bird too swift of wing, or beast too wild ; 
 roots, plants, fruits, flesh, he has stomach for everything. The 
 Esquimaux, in his six months of frozen night, smacks his lips 
 over his whale blubber ; the Samoiedes, following the chase 
 over hill and dale, in clear dry cold mountain air, eats his 
 eight or ten pounds of meat a-day, and holds a dozen tallow 
 candles, if chance throw , them in his way, a rich dessert ; the 
 native of Southern India lives on rice and fruit; the European 
 under the same hot sun stirs up his stomach with spices and 
 pickles, to tempt himself to his usual cold climate fare ; the 
 wandering Arab for whole months lives upon milk alone, and 
 in view of all the thousand strange simples and messes on 
 which men live, grow, and gather strength, it was long (in- 
 deed until quite recently) held, that there was some special 
 miracle of cookery performed in the stomach, by which no 
 matter what came into it was made to feed the blood and 
 build up the bone and muscle. Every ingredient, and the 
 quantities of it in bone and fat, flesh and sinew, were as well 
 known to men learned in such matters, as the ingredients of 
 
 B 
 
2 THE PHILOSOPHY OF COOKERY; 
 
 any given dish to a cook, but although it, was never thought 
 the cook could furnish up the dish without the right matters 
 to make it, it was held that the stomach could build up the 
 human frame out of food, no matter how short the food 
 might be of the needful ingredients. 
 
 Mddern discovery has however proved that the stomach 
 can create nothing ; that it can no more furnish us with flesh 
 out of food, in which, when swallowed, the elements of flesh 
 are wanting, than the cook can send us up roast beef without 
 the beef to roast. There was no doubt as to the cook and the 
 beef, but the puzzle about the stomach came of our not 
 knowing what matters various sorts of food really did con- 
 tain ; from our not observing the effects of particular kinds 
 of food when eaten without anything else for some time, and 
 from our not knowing the entire uses of food. But within 
 the last few years measures and scales have told us these 
 things with just the same certainty as they set out the 
 suet and raisins, currants, flour, spices, and sugar, of a 
 plum-pudding, and in a quite popular explanation it may be 
 said that we need food that as we breathe it may warm us, and 
 to renew our bodies as they are wasted by labour. Each pur- 
 pose needs a different kind of food. The best for the 
 renewal of our strength is slow to furnish heat; the best 
 to give us heat will produce no strength. But this does not 
 tell the whole need for the two kinds of food. Our 
 frames are wasted by labour and exercise; at every move 
 some portion of our bodies is dissipated in the form either of 
 gas or water ; at every breath a portion of our blood is swal- 
 lowed, it may be said, by one of the elements of the air, 
 oxygen; and of strength-giving food alone it is scarce pos- 
 sible to eat enough to feed at once the waste of our bodies, 
 and this hungry oxygen. "With this oxygen our life is in 
 some sort a continual battle ; we must either supply it with 
 especial food, or it will prey upon ourselves ; — a body wasted 
 by starvation is simply eaten up by oxygen. It likes fat 
 best, so the fat goes first ; then the lean, then the brain ; 
 and if from so much waste, death did not result, the sinews 
 and very bones would be lost in oxygen. 
 
 The more oxygen we breathe the more need we have to 
 eat. Every one knows that cold air gives a keen appetite. 
 Those who in town must tickle their palates with spices and 
 pickles to get up some faint liking for a meal, by the sea, or 
 on a hill-side, are hungry every hour of the day, and the 
 languid appetite of summer and crowded rooms, springs into 
 vigour with the piercing cold and open air of winter. 
 The reason of this hungriness of frosty air is simply that our 
 
OR, HOW "VVE LIVE ON WHAT WE EAT. 3 
 
 lungs hold more o£ it than they do of hot air, and so we get 
 more oxygen, a fact that any one can prove, by holding a 
 little balloon half filled with air near the fire, it will soon 
 swell up, showing that hot air needs more room than cold. 
 
 But the oxygen does not use up our food and frames 
 without doing us good service, as it devours it warms us. 
 The fire in the grate is oxygen devouring carbon, and 
 wherever oxygen seizes upon carbon, whether in the shape 
 of coals in a stove or fat in our bodies, the result of the 
 struggle (if we may be allowed the phrase) is heat. 
 
 In all parts of the world, at the Equator and the Poles, 
 amidst eternal ice and under a perpendicular sun, in the 
 parched desert and on the fresh moist fields of temperate 
 zones, the human blood is at the same heat ; it neither boils 
 nor freezes, and yet the body in cold air parts with its heat, 
 and just as we can keep an earthenware bottle filled with 
 boiling water, hot, by wrapping it in flannel, can we keep 
 our bodies warm by covering the'm closely up in clothes. 
 Furs, shawls, and horse-cloths have no warmth in themselves, 
 they but keep in the natural warmth of the body. Every 
 traveller knows that starting without breakfast, or neglecting 
 to dine on the road, he feels more than usually chilly ; the 
 effect is very much the same as if he sat to his meals on the 
 same cold day in a room without a fire ; the internal fuel, 
 the food, which is the oil to feed life's warming lamp, is 
 wanting. On this account, a starving man is far sooner 
 frozen to death than one with food in his wallet. The 
 unfed body rapidly cools down to the temperature of the 
 atmosphere, just as the grate cools when the fire has gone 
 out. Bodily heat is not produced in any one portion of the 
 body, but in every atom of it. In a single minute about 
 twenty -five pounds of blood are sent flowing through the 
 lungs, there the whole mass meets the air, sucks in its oxygen, 
 and speeding on carries to every portion of the frame the 
 power which may be said to light up every atom of flesh, 
 nerve, and bone, and to keep the flame throughout the body 
 ever burning with the fresh warmth of life. 
 
 In accordance with these facts we find men all over the 
 world acting instinctively. In our climate, either by neces- 
 sity or choice, we exert ourselves, quicken the blood's speed, 
 breathe rapidly, take in oxygen largely; in short, fan the 
 flame which quick-returning hunger makes us feed. Even 
 the least civilized follow correctly the natural law ; the 
 fruit bo largely eaten by the native inhabitants of the tropics 
 contains in every 100 oz. not more than 12 of direct heat- 
 producing elements, whilst the blubber and oil of the 
 
 B 2 
 
THE PHILOSOPHY OF COOKERY; 
 
 Esquimaux has in every 100 oz. somewhere about 80 oz. of 
 such elements. Nor is it possible without injurious effects 
 to live in opposition to this instinct, which science has shown 
 to be in strict accordance with the intention of nature. The 
 Englishman in India provokes a make-believe appetite for 
 meat; he has no notion of changing his home-habits be- 
 cause he has left home a few thousand miles away ; he goes 
 to war with sun and air, eats meat abundantly ; in short, 
 stops up the grate with throwing on fuel where there is 
 but little of the fiery oxygen to consume it, grows sickly 
 yellow, and so pays in suffering the common penalty of 
 ignorance. 
 
 The alderman grows fat, because unfortunately the civic 
 gown adds no oxygen to the atmosphere, and the honour calls 
 him to no especial bodily effort, whilst his dear turtle is 
 scarcely less rich in carbon or warmth-giving food, than the 
 Esquimaux's blubber; and so, as the delightful green fat 
 lacks oxygen to burn it, it stores itself in little cells all over 
 the alderman, a reserve of fuel, like the coals in his cellar. 
 As a contrast we may place the native Indian of the high, 
 dry, clear air of the South American Pampas ; at such ele- 
 vation the air is comparatively scant of oxygen. Gf this 
 the Indian knows nothing, but he eats no fat, his sole food 
 is dried lean flesh, and like it he himself is lean, wiry 
 muscled, and wastes little under toil. 
 
 So far therefore we have evidence that good may come of 
 method in our cookery. Plum-pudding is no dish for the 
 dog-days, but its suet blunts the keen tooth of winter. 
 Nor is it a mere sentimental sympathy that wakes the wish 
 to give the poor a good Christmas dinner. Scant fare makes 
 cold more bitter. Those who must face the wintry wind 
 unfed, shiver doubly in the blast when they are poorly clad. 
 The internal fire sinks for want of fuel, and the external 
 air drinks up the little warmth the slow consuming system 
 gives. 
 
 But this is a digression. We have already spoken of -the 
 supposed miraculous doings by which it was taken for 
 granted the stomach could form flesh-making blood out of 
 eatables of all sorts. In infancy we thrive on milk alone. 
 In after years, on bread, meat, and vegetables. Cattle and 
 sheep are a sort of walking machinery to turn grass and 
 grain into beef and mutton, fat and lean, for us. No wonder 
 it should be a puzzle that the very same being could find 
 every part of its body either in milk or mutton, bread or po- 
 tatoes. Chemistry has, however, solved the riddle, by finding 
 in every form of human food such elements as can be readily 
 
OE, HOW WE LIVE ON WHAT WE EAT. 5 
 
 changed into the ingredients of the child's first meal, — its 
 mother's milk. 
 
 Milk, as every dairy-maid knows, when a little rennet is 
 poured into it, becomes curd and whey. The curd chemists 
 call animal caseine. 
 
 When the water in which the meal of peas, beans, or 
 lentils has been for some time suffered to steep, is warmed, 
 and a little acid poured into it, it gives, like the milk, a curd, 
 called vegetable caseine, which is precisely the same as the 
 curd of the milk, and contains, like it, all the ingredients of 
 blood. 
 
 So far, therefore, there is no difficulty in understanding 
 how we may live on peas, beans, &c, just as on milk, or meat. 
 
 Every one knows that white of egg poured into boiling 
 water, gathers together and becomes firm, the substance so 
 formed is called animal albumen. It is identical with the 
 albumen of the blood. 
 
 When vegetables are pounded in a mortar, the fresh 
 squeezed-out juice lets fall a sediment which grass gives 
 largely, and which is also to be had from all kinds of grain. 
 This deposit is precisely the same a.s the fibrin or lean of 
 flesh. When the remaining clear juice is boiled, a thick 
 jelly-like substance is formed. Cauliflower, broccoli, aspara- 
 gus, and cabbage are especially rich in this coagulating or 
 thickening substance : it is exactly the same thing as white 
 of egg or animal albumen. It is called, therefore, vegetable 
 albumen, and is, in common with the white of egg, identical 
 with the albumen of blood, which, with the fibrin, whether 
 animal or vegetable, is the source of every portion of the 
 human body. 
 
 We see, therefore, that the cattle have, in peas and beans as 
 caseine, in corn and grass as fibrin, in sundry vegetables as 
 albumen, the very materials of their flesh ; and that, whether 
 we live upon grain or pulse, beef or mutton, milk or eggs, 
 we are in fact eating flesh, in meat diet ready made ; in the 
 case of the others containing the fit ingredients of prepara- 
 tion. Nor are we left in the least shadow of a doubt that 
 albumen of whatever kind is entirely sufficient to produce 
 flesh, for not only do we find every ingredient of flesh con- 
 tained in it, but we can turn the flesh and fibrin of the blood 
 back to albumen. 
 
 But besides the flesh-making ingredients, namely, the albu- 
 men and fibrin, we have already shown that it is needful the 
 blood should have food for oxygen ; this also is contained in 
 milk, grain, pulse, vegetables, and meat. In the meat as fat, 
 which more or less the juices of the meat and even the lean 
 
THE PHILOSOPHY OF COOKEKY ; 
 
 contain, in the pulse, grain, potatoes, as starch, in the vegeta^ 
 bles, as sugar of various kinds, and in milk as sugar of milk. 
 At first sight, few things seem less alike than starch and 
 sugar, but modern discovery has proved that our saliva — the 
 natural moisture of the mouth (which in its froth, as it is 
 swallowed with every mouthful of food, always contains air) 
 has power, when mixed with moistened starch at the heat of 
 the stomach, to turn the starch into sugar ; and again we find 
 that butter and fat contain the same ingredients as starch and 
 sugar, but with this difference, that ten ounces of fat will 
 feed as much oxygen as twenty-four ounces of starch. Grains, 
 vegetables, milk, and meats differ from each other, and amongst 
 themselves in their quantities of flesh-producing and oxygen- 
 feeding substances ; but whether the oxygen feeders be in the 
 form of sugar or fat, we can tell exactly how much starch 
 they amount to, and the following list taken from Baron 
 Leibig's Familiar Letters on Chemistry, in this way shows 
 the relative value of the several kinds of food in flesh- 
 producing, and oxygen-feeding, or warmth-giving ingredients. 
 
 Human milk has for every ten flesh-producing 
 
 parts . 
 Cows' milk . 
 
 Lentils . . 
 
 Horse beans . 
 
 Peas . 
 
 Fat mutton . 
 ', Fat pork . 
 
 Beef . 
 
 Hare . 
 
 Veal . 
 
 Wheat flour . 
 
 Oatmeal 
 ,' Eye flour . 
 
 Barley . 
 
 White potatoes . 
 
 Black ditto . 
 
 Bice . . . . 
 
 Buck wheat flour 
 
 Here, then, we have proof of the value of variety in food, 
 and come upon what may be called the philosophy of cookery.* 
 
 * " Among all the arts known to man," says Leibig, " there is none which enjoys 
 a juster appreciation, and the products of which are more universally admired 
 than that which is concerned in the preparation of our food. lied by an instinct 
 which has almost reached the dignity of conscious knowledge, as the unerring 
 guide, and by the sense of taste which protects the health, the experienced cook 
 with respect to the choice, the admixture, and the preparation of food, has made 
 
 Flesh 
 
 Warmtl 
 
 producing. 
 
 giving. 
 
 10 
 
 40 
 
 10 
 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 10 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 
 23 
 
 10 
 
 27 
 
 10 
 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 17 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 ] 
 
 10 
 
 46 
 
 10 
 
 50 
 
 10 
 
 57 
 
 10 
 
 57 
 
 10 
 
 86 
 
 10 
 
 115 
 
 10 
 
 12?. 
 
 10 
 
 130 
 
OK, HOW WE LIVE ON WHAT WE EAT. . 7 
 
 In our food the proportions of human milk are the best we can 
 aimat; it has enough of flesh-producingingredients to restore our 1 
 daily waste, and enough of warmth-giving to feed the oxygen 
 we breathe. To begin with the earliest making of dishes, 
 we find that cows' milk has less of oxygen-feeding ingredients 
 in a given measure than human milk ; a child would, there- 
 fore, grow thin upon it unless a little sugar were added; 
 wheat flour has, on the other hand, so much an excess of 
 oxygen-feeding power as would fatten a child unhealthily, 
 and it should therefore have cows' milk added to reduce the 
 fattening power. 
 
 The same sort of procedure applies in greater or less 
 degree to all dishes. Veal and hare stand lowest in the list 
 for their oxygen-feeding qualities, and, on this account, 
 should be eaten with potatoes or rice, which stand highest, 
 and with bacon and jelly which furnish in their fat and 
 sugar the carbon wanting in the flesh. With the above table 
 before us, and keeping in mind the facts already detailed, it is 
 clear that cookery should supply us with a mixed diet of animal 
 and vegetable food, and should aim so to mix as to give us 
 for every ounce of the flesh-making ingredients in our food, 
 four ounces of oxygen-feeding ingredients. It is clear, also, 
 that the most nourishing or strength-giving of all foods are 
 fresh red meats, they are flesh ready made, and contain, be- 
 sides, the iron which gives its red colour to the blood, being 
 short of which the blood lacks vitality, and wanting which it 
 dies. 
 
 To preserve in dressing the full nourishment of meats, 
 and their properties of digestiveness, forms a most important 
 
 acquisitions surpassing all that chemical and physiological science have done in 
 regard to the doctrine or theory of nutrition. 
 
 '" In soup and meat sauces he imitates the gastric juices, and by the cheese, which 
 closes the banquet, he assists the action of the dissolved epithalmium (fine inner 
 lining), which, with the swallowed saliva, forms rennet of the stomach. The table 
 supplied with dishes, appears to the observer like a machine, the parts of which 
 are harmoniously fitted together, and so arranged, that when brought into action, a 
 maximum of effect may be obtained by means of them. The able culinary artist 
 accompanies the blood, making articles with those which promote the process of 
 solution and re-solution into blood in due proportion ; he avoids all kinds of unne- 
 cessary stimuli, such as do not act in restoring the equilibrium ; and he provides 
 the due nourishment for the child as well as the old man, aswell as for both 
 sexes. 
 
 "The intelligent and experienced mother or nurse chooses lood for thechild with 
 the same attention to the laws of nature ; she gives him chiefly milk and farina- 
 ceous food, always adding fruits to the latter ; she prefers the flesh of adult animals 
 which are rich in bone earth, to that of young animals, and always accompanies 
 itVith garden vegetables ; she gives the child especially bones to gnaw, and excludes 
 from its diet veal, fish, and potatoes ; to the excitable child of weak digestive 
 powers, she gives, in its farinaceous food, infusion of malt and uses milk Bugar, the 
 respiratory matter prepared by nature herself for the respiratory process, in prefer- 
 ence to cane sugar ; and she allows him the unlimited use of salt." 
 
THE PHILOSOPHY OP COOKERY: 
 
 part of the art of cookery; for these ends the object to 
 be kept in mind is to retain as much as possible the juices 
 of the meat, whether roast or boiled. This, in the case 
 of boiling meat is best done by placing it at once in briskly 
 boiling water; the albumen on the surface, and to some 
 depth, is immediately coagulated, and thus forms a kind 
 of covering which neither allows the water to get into the 
 meat, nor the meat juice into the water. This accomplished, 
 the water should be kept just under boiling until the meat 
 be thoroughly done, which it will be when every part has 
 been heated to about 165 degrees, the temperature at which 
 the colouring matter of the blood coagulates or fixes; at 
 a lower temperature, 133 degrees, the albumen sets, but the 
 blood does not, and therefore the meat looks red. and raw. 
 We have taken this bit of instruction for cooks direct from 
 Leibig. As to roasting, the same rules apply: the meat 
 should first be brought near enough a bright fire to brown 
 the outside, and should then be allowed to roast slowly. In 
 connection with this point of preserving the rich juices of 
 meat, it may be as well to remind all cooks and housekeepers 
 that the brine in which meat, covered with dry salt, is in two 
 or three days found swimming, is caused by the fact that 
 the meat has in it a large quantity of water, that it can hold 
 but about half as much of brine as water, and that the excess 
 of water as it flows out, carries with it, to so large an extent, 
 the juices and nourishing power of the meat, that it is no 
 over estimate to state that one pound in every three is com- 
 pletely thrown away when meat is corned. 
 
 Belonging also to this question of waste and nourishment, 
 it is to be noted, that the almost everywhere-agreed-upon 
 notion that soup, which sets into strong jelly, must be the 
 most nutritious, is altogether a mistake. The soup sets 
 because it contains the gelatine or glue of the sinews, flesh, 
 and bones: but on this imagined richness alone it has, by 
 recent experiments, been proved that no animal can live. 
 The jelly of bones boiled into soup, can furnish only jelly 
 for our bones ; the jelly of sinew or calf s feet can form only 
 sinew ; neither flesh nor its juices set into a jelly. It is 
 only by long boiling we obtain a soup that sets, but in a 
 much less time we get all the nourishing properties that meat 
 yields in soup.* Jellies are no doubt useful in cases of 
 
 * In conformity with the above, Leibig tells how the best beef tea or brown 
 soup Bhould be made. " When one pound of lean beef, free from fat, and 
 separated from the bones, in the finely chopped state in which it is used for beef 
 sausages or mince-meat, is uniformly mixed with its own weight of cold water, 
 then slowly heated to boiling, and the liquid after boiling briskly for a minute or 
 two is strained through a cloth or sieve from the coagulated albumen arid the 
 
OK, HOW WE LIVE OK WHAT WE EAT. 9 
 
 recovery from illness when the portions of the system in 
 which it occurs have been wasted, but in other cases, though 
 easily enough digested, jelly is unwholesome, for it loads 
 the blood with not only useless but disturbing products. 
 Nor does jelly stand alone. Neither can we live on meat 
 which has been cleared of fat, long boiled, and has had all 
 the juice pressed out of it; a dog so fed, lost in forty-three 
 days a fourth of his weight; in fifty-five days he bore all 
 the appearance of starvation, and yet such meat has all the 
 muscular fibre in it. In the same way, animals fed on pure 
 caseine, albumen, fibrin of vegetables, starch, sugar, or fat, 
 died, with every appearance of death by hunger. 
 
 Further experiment showed that these worse than useless 
 foods were entirely without certain matters which are 
 always to be found in the blood, namely, phosphoric acid, 
 potash, soda, lime, [magnesia, oxide of iron,* and common 
 salt (in certain of these we may mention, by way of paren- 
 thesis, that veal is especially deficient, and hence its diffi- 
 culty of digestion and poor nutrient properties). These 
 salts of the blood, as they are termed in chemistry, are to be 
 found in the several wheys and juices of meat, milk, pulse, 
 and grain. Here then was the proof complete, that such food, 
 to support life, must contain the several ingredients of the 
 blood, and that the stomach cannot make, nor the body do 
 without the least of them. 
 
 We are indebted for the information given in this chapter 
 to the Familiar Letters, and Animal Chemistry of Baron 
 
 fibrin, which are then become hard and horny, we obtain an equal weight of the 
 most aromatic soup, of such strength as can be had even by boiling for hours from 
 apiece of flesh; also, when mixed with salt, and the other additions by which 
 soup is usually seasoned, and tinged somewhat darker by means of roasted onions 
 or burnt sugar, it forms the very best soup that can be prepared from a pound of 
 flesh." 
 
 The proof of the excellence of this soup is to be had in the fact, that it has 
 been found of the greatest value to an army on active Rervice. Given to wounded 
 soldiers with a little wine it immediately restores their strength from the ex- 
 haustion by loss of blood, and enables them far better to bear removal to the nearest 
 hospital. There is scarce need to mention that the soup so useful in such severe 
 instances must be a most admirable restorative in cases of weakness from illness, 
 &c. True it is that this soup contains little or no flesh or albumen; but it is rich 
 in the juice of flesh. Flesh itself, as we have shown in the case of starvation, 
 wastes but slowly, the iron and several salts of the juices are far more rapidly lost, 
 and also more quickly digested or furnished to the blood, and thence the speedily 
 reviving effects of this quickly made beef-tea. 
 
 * " We cannot imagine the formation of blood globules without iron, corresponding 
 to the quantity which daily becomes worn out or inactive, and is excreted by the 
 intestinal canal. It is quite certain that, if iron be excluded from the food, 
 organic life cannot be supported. Vegetable food, especially grain, and, of course, 
 bread, contains as much iron as beef or red meat generally; veal contains only 
 one third of the iron that beef does. Cheese, eggs, and especially fish, contain in 
 proportion to the alkalies, a quantity still smaller than veal." 
 
10 THE PHILOSOPHY OF COOKERY; 
 
 Leibig, works full of instruction, and to which we would 
 refer such of our readers as may have found their attention 
 fixed by our remarks. Few books will better repay a study, 
 a,nd there are few subjects of more true interest than the 
 explanation of how the earth, and air, and rains, and dew 
 feed vegetation ; how vegetables become the flesh of beasts, 
 their flesh the flesh of men; and how, through every order 
 of life, there is growth, waste, maintenance of force, and 
 hourly return of borrowed elements, until at length the life 
 is ended, and the frame, obedient to the perpetual force of 
 nature, yields back the several elements that gathered, in the 
 daily food, built up the bulk, restored to every part its hourly 
 waste, supplied the strength for every effort, and gave at 
 every breath the vital warmth. 
 
 A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE ADULTERATION OF OUR FOOD, 
 AND THE PURITY OF WATER. 
 
 But spite of our receipts and our philosophy, the briskness 
 of the fire, the skill of our cook, the excellence of the oven, 
 and the bright array of pots, kettles, pans, moulds, griddles 
 and gridirons, and the presiding genius of even a half Fortu- 
 natus sort of a purse, or the most rigid scale and measure 
 of economy, one grand puzzle besets alike all kitchens, the 
 difficulty of really getting the ingredients on which the 
 mystery of food manufacture is to be exercised. 
 
 The very water we have to cook with, is crowded with 
 millions of monsters — things with two heads and no heads, 
 with countless legs and no legs, with jaws and pincers and 
 claws, and most wonderfully springy tails ; in some water well 
 nigh enough of them to make a sort of soup, to say nothing 
 of the chalk, lime, iron, and a host of other impurities. 
 
 The sugar, if it be brown, without taking note of such 
 items as a little lead, a good deal of sand, some clay and flour, 
 is pretty nearly as thick as it can hold of chips of cane and 
 fi warms of mites. 
 
 Our tea, if green, is painted and polished with Prussian 
 blue, turmeric powder, and China clay, and is a mixture of 
 all the leaves that the wonderful industry and ingenuity of 
 the Chinese, and for marvellous economy of honesty by our 
 own grocers can accomplish; we have old tea-leaves dried 
 
OR, HOW WE LIVE ON WHAT WE EAT. 11 
 
 and twisted up, and coloured and glazed, and sold for black 
 and green ; we have even gunpowder made up of dust and 
 sand, and gum, faced as they call it with plumbago. 
 
 Coffee, fragrant and refreshing, has almost become a myth, 
 we may have pneumatic coffee-pots that will not let the finest 
 dust pass through their strainers, French coffee-pots, German 
 coffee-pots, and all kinds of traditional directions for the 
 manufacture, just as it is to be had in Paris ; but not one of 
 them can help us to make coffee, unless, as good old Mrs. 
 Glass would say, "we have first got our coffee;" and what 
 with foreign roguery and home roguery, the Chancellor of the 
 Exchequer, and the sore temptations to cheat the customs, 
 the chances are twenty to one against us* that the brown 
 powder we are at so much pains with, once flourished at the 
 end of a blue flower, on a long stalk under our own hedges, 
 being known where it grew under the name of wild endive, 
 christened in trade chicory, and being in reality a tall and aristo- 
 cratic sort of dandelion, possessing too the medicinal properties 
 of dandelion, and none whatever of the properties of coffee. 
 But even if people be taken with a liking for this dandelion 
 tea instead of coffee, they cannot even have it pure, the 
 chicory itself is far too costly to content the avaricious 
 roguery of a number of dealers, and so the chicory itself 
 is adulterated with roasted corn, parsnips, manglewurzel, 
 beans, Egyptian lupin seed, biscuit powder, burnt sugar, 
 roasted carrots, oak bark, tan, acorns, mahogany sawdust, 
 and no little sand, the result of the original dirt judiciously 
 left as a make-weight upon the root of the chicory itself. 
 
 Mustard can scarce be said to have even the colour of 
 mustard, for it is coloured with turmeric, and what passes 
 for mustard is in many a case little more than mere husks 
 and flour. 
 
 Pepper is messed up with wheat-flour, mustard-seed husks, 
 sago-meal, pea-flour, and warehouse sweepings; nor does it 
 fare better with food for invalids, oatmeal is mingled with 
 far less digestive barley-meal at half the price. Arrow-root 
 (which it should be understood is the produce of under ground 
 branches or bulbs of the maranta plant, growing in the West and 
 East Indies, and having gained its name of arrow-root from 
 the belief that it was a remedy against the deadliness of 
 poisoned arrows), is to the utmost economized; and though its 
 purity is often of great importance to the invalid, there is for 
 the most part sold instead, sago-flour, tapioca-flour, and most 
 commonly of all and worst of all, potato-starch. 
 
 Milk and bread, the laborious and able sanitary commission 
 of the " Lancet," to whose reports for more full information 
 
12 THE PHILOSOPHY OP COOKERY; 
 
 we would refer our readers, has shown are not much adulte- 
 rated. But the milk, partly by the kind of keep of the cows, 
 partly by a little careful skimming, and in a multitude of 
 cases by the liberal aid of the pump, is duly thinned. Flour 
 and bread, of old mixed with plaster of Paris, ground bones, 
 and potato starch — thanks to the cheapening of pure 
 materials, has come to content itself with alum only, and 
 instead of other adulteration, customers are cheated with 
 light weight, a matter on which there is no need to say 
 anything, but that its best corrective is a pair of household 
 scales and the nearest police office. But this running account 
 of roguery, except for its curiousness, would be of little use 
 without a few Bints, if not as to detection and prevention, 
 at least as to how our readers may escape from amongst the 
 number of dupes and sufferers, who are daily and hourly 
 swindled in the kingdom. 
 
 As to tea (the fact being that since the experienced officers 
 of the East India Company have ceased to hold the Chinese 
 traders in terrorum, almost no real green tea reaches this 
 country, but all pretending to be such are painted with 
 poisons), it is best to be content with black tea alone. 
 
 For sugar, the best advice is — if you like to pay for dirt and 
 to mix it with your preserves, puddings, and pastry, and 
 choose to believe the grocers, that sugar that moistens even 
 the thick paper they place it in, and which looks dark, smells 
 strong, and sticks to your fingers, is richer in sweetening 
 than clear sparkling white sugar, out of which none of the 
 sweetening but all the dirt has been washed — then buy brown 
 sugar. 
 
 " Please tell the people over the way," said a gentleman, 
 " that I would take it as a particular favour, if in future they 
 will send me the cow's hairs on one plate, and the butter on 
 another, and I can mix them myself as I want them." Such 
 is our advice as to coffee. It seems Jbeyond the reach of 
 average human honesty to sell it pure. The chicory is so 
 fragrant — so wholesome — such an improvement on the flavour 
 of the Arabian berry, and withal so much cheaper, that 
 mixed it*must be. We say therefore, Buy your coffee in the 
 berry, raw ; your chances are at all events fifty to one better 
 of having coffee only. Boast and grind it for yourselves, and, 
 if you like chicory or dandelion, endive, or any other weed 
 with it, why, buy the roots, scorch them and grate them, and, 
 like the man with thl hairs in his butter, mix them to your 
 taste. But do not, unless you choose to cheat your stomachs, 
 buy ground coffee, a mill will soon pay for itself; and at all 
 events never purchase canistered or bottled coffee, for in 
 
OK, HOW WE LIVE ON" WHAT WE EAT. 13 
 
 ninety-nine cases out of a hundred an additional dose of dust 
 is made to pay for the tin or glass.* 
 
 As to water— every one knows that plumbers make the 
 bottoms of the cisterns thicker than the sides because the 
 water eats the lead away ; hard water does so more than soft, 
 and water from the same source more at sometimes than 
 others. Lead, as the phrase is, accumulates in the system, so 
 that ever so little taken day by day, at length sums up to a poi- 
 sonous dose sufficient to mar the health. The remedy for this 
 mischief is simply to have the service-pipes made of, and the 
 cisterns lined with, gutta pe,rcha. Some towns — Glasgow, 
 Nottingham, Manchester, for instance, are fortunate in having 
 supplies of pure soft water, and though the change is compa- 
 ratively recent, the good effect has already begun to show 
 itself in the returns of the public health. 
 
 Thames and other river waters, with which London and 
 many other cities and towns are supplied, contain in every 
 gallon from twenty to four and twenty grains of ingredients, 
 which have more or less a medicinal effect, besides the many 
 injurious living animalculae and matters of animal refuse. 
 Many spring waters, though of course free from the animal im- 
 purities, abound still more in the medicinal. To render such 
 waters fit for healthful use, some process of purification is 
 absolutely essential, and such purification very perceptibly 
 improves both their cooking and washing properties. 
 
 Ordinary filters certainly free water from a considerable 
 quantity of dirt, but not from the medicinal ingredients, nor 
 even from all the animalculae, some of which, though quite 
 visible as monsters with a microscope, nevertheless find their 
 way through the filter. One of the simplest processes of 
 
 * It may not be amiss to show how tea is made in China, and coffee amongst 
 the Turks. 
 
 The art of making tea consists in pouring the water on and off immediately, so 
 as to get the flavour. 
 
 Coffee making is a more intricate affair, and cannot be fully conveyed in a receipt. 
 But a docile spirit that will dismiss every received idea and not reason, may make 
 something out of the hints I now submit. — The coffee must be slowly roasted, not 
 burnt, and brought only to an amber brown, it must be roasted day by day. The 
 flavour dissipates in a few hours, it must be reduced by pounding to an impalpable 
 powder. In making it, two opposite and apparently incompatible ends are to be 
 secured — strength and flavour. To obtain the first, it must be boiled ; by boiling, 
 the second is lost. The difficulty is surmounted by a double process,— one thorough 
 cooking, one slight one ; by the first a strong infusion is obtained, by the second 
 that infusion is flavoured. Thus a large pot with coffee-lees stands simmering by 
 the fire ; this is the sherbet. When a cup is wanted the pounded coffee is put in 
 the little tin or copper pan, and placed on the embers ; it fumes for a moment, 
 then the sherbet is poured on; in a few seconds the froth (cai'mah) rises; presently 
 an indication that it is about to boil is made manifest, when the coffee is instantly 
 taken from the Are, carried into the apartment, turned into the cup, and drunk." 
 — Vrguart's Pillars of Hercules. 
 
14 THE PHILOSOPHY OP COOKERY. 
 
 purification, if people will only take the trouble to perform it — 
 and it is surely worth it for the increase of comfort and the ad- 
 vantage to health is, — for every forty gallons that the cistern 
 holds to pour in one gallon of lime water; this has the effect 
 of throwing down from the water a large proportion of the 
 chemical ingredients, and no small multitude of the animal- 
 culas. Such water filtered is perhaps as nearly pure as it can 
 be made from the present source of the supplies. Another 
 method of purification is by long slow boiling, then allowing 
 the water to cool, and filtering it. Some trouble no doubt 
 there is in any such course, but pure water, like pure air, is 
 essential to a life of health, and those who will not be at the 
 trouble must make up their minds to some degree of infirmity 
 and unhappiness. 
 
4 THE 
 
 ILLUSTMTED LONDON COOKERY BOOK. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 ON CARVING. 
 
 One of the most important acquisitions in the routine of daily life 
 is the ability to carve well, and not only well but elegantly. It is 
 true that the modes now adopted of sending meats, &c. to table are 
 fast banishing the necessity for promiscuous carving from the 
 elegantly served boards of the wealthy ; but in the circles of middle 
 life, where the refinements of cookery are not adopted, the utility of 
 a skill in the use of a carving knife is sufficiently obvious. 
 
 It must not be supposed that the necessity for this acquirement is 
 confined to the heads of families alone, it is as important for the 
 bachelor visitor to be familiar with the art, as it is for the host him- 
 self ; indeed he is singled out usually for the task of carving a side 
 dish, which happening to be poultry of some kind, becomes a task 
 most embarrassing to him, if he should happen to be ignorant of the 
 modus operandi of skilfully dissecting a fowl. He may happen to be 
 
16 
 
 ON CARVING. 
 
 on the right hand of the lady of the house, and at her request, very 
 politely conveyed, he cannot refuse ; he rises, therefore, to his task 
 as though one of the labours of Hercules had been suddenly imposed 
 on him ; he first casts around him a nervous glance to ascertain 
 whether any one else is carving a fowl, in order to see where 
 they insert their fork, at j what part they commence, aria how they 
 go on ; but it generally happens that he is not so fortunate as he 
 desires, and therefore he is left to get through the operation as well as 
 he can. He takes up his knife and fork desperately, he knows that 
 a wing is good, a slice of the breast is a dainty, and that a leg is a 
 gentleman's portion, so he sticks his fork in at random, and slashes at 
 the wing, misses the joint, and endeavours to cut through the bone; 
 it is not an easy task, he mutters something about his knife not being 
 sharp, essays a grin and a faint jeu de mot at the expense of the fowl's 
 age, and finding the bone will not sunder by fair means, he puts out 
 his strength, gets off the wing with a sudden dash which propels the 
 mangled member off the dish upon the cloth, sends the body of the 
 fowl quite to the edge of the dish, and with the jerk splashes a 
 - quantity of gravy over the rich dinner dress of the lady seated next 
 to him, much to her chagrin at the injury to her robe, and her 
 contempt for the barbarous ignorance he has displayed. He has to 
 make a thousand apologies for his stupidity, which only serve to 
 make his deficiency more apparent, he becomes heated, suffused with 
 blushes and perspiration, continues hacking and mangling the fowl 
 until he has disjointed the wings and legs, and then, alas ! the body 
 presents itself to him as a terra incognita, what to do with it he is at 
 a complete loss to imagine, but it must be carved, he has strength of 
 wrist, aid he crashes through it at the hazard of repeating the 
 mishaps he commenced with. His task over, he sits down confused 
 and uncomfortable to find his efforts have caused the rejection 
 of any portion of the fowl he has wrenched asunder by those 
 who have witnessed his bungling attempt, he is disgusted with the 
 fowl, himself, carving, and everything else; loses all enjoyment for 
 his dinner, and during the remainder of the evening cannot recover 
 his equilibrium. 
 
 He will possibly too have the very questionable satisfaction of 
 witnessing an accomplished carver dissect a fowl, he perceives with a 
 species of wonder that he retains his seat, plants his fork in the bird, 
 removes the wings and legs as if by magic, then follows merry- 
 thought and neck bones, then the breast, away come the two sides- 
 men, and the bird is dissected ; all this too is accomplished without 
 effort and with an elegance of manner as surprising as captivating; 
 the pieces carved look quite tempting, while there is no perceptible 
 difference in the temperature of the carver, he is as cool and col- 
 lected as ever, and assists the portions he has carved with as much 
 grace as he displayed in carving the fowl. The truth is, he is 
 acquainted with the anatomy of the bird, he has felt the necessity of 
 acquiring the art, and has taken advantage of every opportunity 
 which has enabled him to perfect himself in the requisite knowledge 
 to attain the position at which he has arrived. 
 
ON CARVING. 
 
 17 
 
 Ladies ought especially to make carving a study; at their own 
 houses, they grace the table and should be enabled to perform the 
 task allotted to them with sufficient skill, to prevent remark or the 
 calling, forth of eager proffers of assistance from good natured visitors 
 near.jwho. probably would not present any better claim to a neat 
 performance. 
 
 Carving presents no difficulties; it requires simply knowledge- 
 All displays of exertion or violence are in very bad taste ; for, if not 
 proved an evidence of the want of ability on the part of the carver, 
 they present a very strong testimony of the toughness of a joint or 
 the more than full age of a bird : in both cases they should be 
 avoided. A good knife of moderate size, sufficient length of handle, 
 and very sharp, is requisite ; for a lady it should be light, and 
 smaller than that used by gentlemen. Fowls are very easily carved , 
 and joints, such as loins, breasts, fore-quarters, &c, the butcher- 
 should have strict injunctions to separate the joints well. 
 
 The dish upon which the article to be carved is placed should be 
 conveniently near to the carver, so that he has full control over it ;. 
 for if far off, nothing can prevent an ungracefulness of appearance, 
 nor a difficulty in performing that which in its proper place could be 
 achieved with ease. 
 
 In serving fish, some nicety and care must be exercised; here 
 lightness of hand and dexterity of management is necessary, and can 
 only be acquired by practice. The flakes which, in such fish as 
 salmon and cod are large, should not be broken in serving, for the 
 beauty of the fish is then destroyed, and the appetite for it injured. 
 In addition to the skill in the use of the knife, there is also required 
 
 C 
 
18 
 
 ON CARVING. 
 
 another description of knowledge, and that is an acquaintance with 
 the best gasHs of the joint, fowl, or fish being carved. Thus in a 
 haunch qf venison the fat, which is a favourite, must be served with 
 each si&&;- in the shoulder of mutton the.?*., are some delicate cuts in 
 the undje-r- part. The breast and wijigs are the best parts of a fowl, 
 the trail! of a woodcock on a toast i&#ife chfljfcsst part of the. bird. In 
 fish, a, jjjftrt o|. the roe, melt, or liver should accompany the piece of 
 fishjsejfved!;- the- list, however is too ljumesous to mention herej and 
 h&ifeed!, the knowledge can only b% a<s<|uired by experience. In 
 laiige establishments the gross., dishes are carved at the buffet by the 
 ii^ter j, IJsft i& middle sojagj^ ttfce* $ae- pfoeedl hjobi the- taMfe I« the 
 feWtow^sg; <fc$efci.«s, msm® wied b^ diagram^, •«<& hass* «aAmfm»& 
 tebe as explicit as wfisssMte;, tewiile they TftMynw® a* Itadimarks 
 Ijqj %& uninitiated, h& will findl Ijhat practice^ sdtoBi© wiilf «saMe hm 
 tS> C#ve with skill and facility-.. 
 
 A^& An Akbqh-bone of Beef. 
 
 This is a simple joint to 
 carvey, butr the;- slices from it 
 wmk te cut cpi&e even, and 
 q& a. very Bjadtemte thickness. 
 When the joint is boiled, 
 before cutting to serve, re- 
 move a slice from the whole 
 of the upper part of sufficient 
 thickness, say a quarter of an 
 Aitch-Bone. inch, in order to, arrive at the 
 
 juicy part of the meat at once. Carve from a to b ; let the slices be 
 moderately thin — not too thin ; help fat with the lean ia one piece, 
 and give a little additional fat which you will find below g ; the* solid 
 fat is at a, and must be cut in slices horizontally. The wound of beef 
 is carved in the, same manner. 
 
 Ribs of Beef. There are two modes of carving this joint ; the first, 
 which is now becoming common, and is. easy- to an amateur carver, is to 
 cut across the bone commencing, in the centre, and serving fat from 
 a, as marked in the engraving of the sirloin, or it should be; carved! 
 in slices from- a to c, commencing either in the centre of the joint 
 or at the sides. Occasionally the bones are removed, and the meat 
 formed into a fillet ; it should then be carved as a round of beef. 
 
 The Sibloin of Beer 
 The under-part should be 
 first served, and carved 
 as indicated in the en- 
 graving, across the bone. 
 In carving the upper 
 part the same directions 
 should be followed as for 
 the ribs, carving either 
 side, or in- the centre*, 
 from a to b,. and helping 
 the fat from d. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef: 
 
ON CARVING. 
 
 19 
 
 Fillet of VeaL 
 
 Fillet of Veal. Cut a slice 
 off the whole of the upper part 
 in the same way as from a round 
 of beef, this being, if wellroasted, 
 of a nice brown, should be helped 
 in; small pieces with the- slices 
 yam emit fcr esuzk jersaiiL The 
 stuffing is skewered in the flap, 
 and where the bone comes out 
 there is some placed; help this 
 with the meat with a piece of the 
 fat. 
 
 Neck of Veal. Were 
 you to attempt to carve 
 each chop, and serve it, 
 you would not only place 
 a gigantic piece upon the 
 plate of the person you 
 jnu i i ji. i i *j\ <_ a ' ^^i, ,'jfflr intended to help, but you 
 (Pfilr** t* v ** u'" mi ""*i«ihiuii! -would waste much time, 
 Neck of Veal. and should the vertebrae 
 
 have not been jointed by the butcher, you would find yourself in the 
 position of the ungraceful carver- being compelled to exercise a degree 
 of strength which should never: Be suffered to appear,, very possibly, 
 too, assisting, gravy in a manner not eoHtemplateditojf the person unfor- 
 tunate enough to- receive it. Cut diagonally from b to a, and help in 
 slices of moderate thickness ; you can cut from c to d in order to 
 separate the small bones, divide and aerve them, having, first inquired 
 if they are desired. 
 
 The Bbeast of Veal., Separate the ribs from the. brisket, cut- 
 ting from A t &C^_— -y—m-^^ to b ; these 
 
 the prefer- ~ ence of the 
 
 person, help Breast of Vear - afflBsrdingly; 
 
 at good tablest the scrag is not served, but is found*, when properly 
 cooked, a very good stew. 
 
 Loin of Veal. This joint is sent to table served as a sirlein of 
 beef. Having turned it over, cut out the kidney and the fat, return 
 it to its proper position, and carve it as in the neck of veal,, from b 
 to a ; help with it a slice of kidney and fat. The kidney is usually 
 placed, upon a dry toast wben removed from the joint. 
 
 Sho¥ldee of Veal is sent to table with the under part placed 
 uppermost. Help it as a. shoulder of mutton,, beginning at the 
 knuckle end. 
 
 C 2 
 
20 
 
 ON CARVING. 
 
 Calf's Head. There is 
 much more meat to be ob- 
 tained from a calf's head 
 by carving it. one way than 
 another. Carve from A 
 to b, cutting quite down 
 to tke bone. At the 
 fleshy part of the neck 
 end you will find the 
 Half of calf s Head. throat sweetbread which 
 
 you can help a slice of with the other part; you will remove the eye 
 with the point of the knife and divide it in half, helping those to it 
 who profess a preference for it, there are some tasty, gelatinous 
 pieces around it which are palatable. Kemove the jaw bone, and 
 then you will meet with some fine flavoured lean ; the palate, which 
 is under the head, is by some thought a dainty and should be prof- 
 fered when carving. 
 
 Leg of Mutton. The 
 under or thickest part of the 
 leg should be placed upper- 
 most and carved in slices 
 moderately thin from b toe. 
 Many persons have a taste 
 for the knuckle, and this 
 question should be asked, 
 and if preferred should be 
 Leg of Mutton. assisted. When cold, the 
 
 back of the leg should be placed uppermost, and thus carved ; if the 
 cramp bone is. requested, and some persons regard it as a dainty, 
 liold the shank with your left hand, and insert your knife at D, pass- 
 ing it round to e, and you will remove it. 
 
 A Shoulder of Mutton. This 
 is a joint upon which a great 
 diversity of opinion exists, many 
 professing a species of horror at 
 its insipidity ; others finding much 
 delicacy of flavour in certain parts. 
 In good, mutton there is no doubt 
 but that if properly managed it is 
 an excellent joint, and if judi- 
 ciously carved will give satisfac- 
 a shoulder of Mutton. tion to all who partake of it. It 
 
 should be served and eaten very hot. It is sent to table lying on 
 the dish as shown in the annexed engraving. Commence carving 
 from a to b, taking out moderately thin slices in the shape of a 
 wedge ; some nice pieces may then be helped from the blade bone, 
 from c to b, cutting on both sides of the bone. Cut the fat from d, 
 carvin« it in thin slices. Some of the most delicate parts however 
 lie on the under part of the shoulder ; take off thin pieces horizon- 
 
ON CARVING. 
 
 21 
 
 A Shoulder of Mutton. 
 
 tally from b . to c, and from a ; 
 some tender slices are to be met 
 with at D, but they must be cut 
 through as indicated. 
 
 The shoulder of mutton is es- 
 sentially a joint of tit-bits, and 
 therefore when carving it, the 
 tastes of those at table should be 
 consulted. It is a very insipid 
 joint when cold, and should there- 
 fore be hashed if sent to table a 
 second time, 
 small, should be carved in chops, 
 if large, carve slices the whole 
 
 The Loin of Mutton, if 
 beginning with the outer chop 
 
 length. A neat way is to run the knife along the chine bone and 
 under the meat along the ribs, it may then be cut in slices as shown 
 in the engraving of the saddle of mutton below ; by this process fat 
 and lean are served together ; your knife should be very sharp and it 
 should be done cleverly. 
 
 Neck of Mutton, if the scrag and chine bone are removed, is 
 carved in the direction of the bones. 
 
 The Sceag of Mutton should be separated from the ribs of the 
 neck, and_when roasted the bones assisted with the meat. 
 
 Saddle of Mutton. 
 The tail end is divi- 
 ded in the engraving, 
 and the kidneys skew- 
 ered under each divi- 
 sion ; this is a matter 
 of taste, and is not 
 always done. Carve 
 from a to b in thin 
 slices, help fat from 
 c to d. You may 
 help from the vertebra 
 on both sides of the 
 loin, and then carve cross- wise as marked in the engraving, which gives 
 you both fat and lean ; help a slice of kidney to those who desire it. 
 Haunch of Mutton is carved as haunch of venison. 
 
 Fore Quabter 
 of Lamb. Place 
 your fork near the 
 knuckle and cut 
 from a to c, to' 33, 
 and on to d ; pass 
 your knife tinder, 
 lifting with the 
 fork at the same 
 time. The juice of half a lemon or Seville orange which has been 
 sprinkled with salt and pepper, is then squeezed under the shoulder, 
 
 Saddle of Mutton. 
 
 Fore Quarter of Lamb. 
 
22 
 
 ON CARVING. 
 
 and a slice of fresh, butter placed there also, the jrnrts are re-united 
 until the butter is melted, and the shoulder is then placed upon a 
 separate dish; separate the neck from the ribs, from e to d, and 
 then assist the breast o, or the neck w, according to the palate of 
 your guest. 
 
 Haunch of Veni- 
 son. Have the dish 
 jpj&oed before you so 
 that the loin is near- 
 est to you, and the 
 knuckle farthest, then 
 cut from a to b, suffi- 
 
 Tfaunch of Venison. cientiy Hear the 
 
 knuckle to prevent the escape of any gravy, then make your first 
 cut from a to c, with a slanting cut, and then let each succeeding 
 slice be sloping so that all the gravy may bs retained in the hollow 
 thus formed ; the fat will be found at the left side, and must be 
 served with the meat. 
 
 Neck of Venison thould be carved across the ribs, as in the neck 
 of veal, or length-wise, from one end of the neck to the other. 
 
 Kid, if kept until the age at which lambs are killed, is served and 
 carved in the same manner ; if killed at a month or five weeks, they 
 are roasted whole and carved in the kitchen. 
 
 Pork. The leg when sent to table should be placed with the back 
 uppermost and the crackling be removed ; if sufficiently baked, this 
 may be done with ease ; the meat should be served in thin slices cut 
 across the leg, the crackling being served with it, or not, according 
 to taste ; the loins ate cut into the pieces as scored by the butcher. 
 
 Ham. It is served as placed 
 in the engraving, and should 
 come to talble .ornamented. 
 Carve from a to b, cutting thin 
 slices cut slantingly, to give a 
 wedge-like appearance. Those 
 who prefer the hock carve at d, 
 in the same direction as from 
 a to b, then carve from d to c, 
 in thin slices^ as indicated in 
 the diagram. 
 
 Boiled Tongue. Carve across the tongue, but do not cut 
 through; keep the slices rather thin, and help ihefiitftom underneath. 
 
 Suckiwg- Pie. The cook 
 should send a roast pig to table 
 as displayed here, garnished with 
 head and ears, carve the joints 
 in the direction .shown by the 
 . lines in the diagram, then divide 
 the ribs, serve with plenty of 
 sauce; should one of the joints 
 be too much it maybe separated: 
 
 Roast Fig, 
 
ON CASVISTGi 
 
 23 
 
 An ear and the jaw 
 
 Hare. 
 
 bread sauoe and stuffing should aooomp&ny it. 
 are favourilfe parts with many people, 
 
 Hare. Cut slices 
 from b to -A of moderate 
 thickness. When the 
 hare is young you can, 
 aifter removitl(g the 
 shoulders and tegs^ ■cm.t 
 across the hack, and 
 divide it into several 
 pieces ; this is not prac- 
 ticable with a full-grown hare, unless it is boned, the shoulders and 
 legs are easily removed by placing the knife between them, and 
 turning them back, the joint will disclose itself and can then be 
 separated. The head should not be removed until the last, divide it 
 from the neck, remove the lower jaw, then cut through the division 
 which appears from the nose to the top of the skull and lay it open. 
 The stuffing should be given with whatever portion may be helped. 
 Roast Rabbits are carved in the same manner. 
 
 , Boiled Rabbit. Remove 
 
 the legs and shoulders, they 
 
 very easily separate, divide 
 
 the hack into two parts, and 
 
 by holding the fork firmly in 
 
 the back, and passing the 
 
 knife underneath near the 
 
 Boiled Rabbit. middle and bending it back> 
 
 this is accomplished readily. The most tender part is on the loins, 
 
 the meat there is of a very delicate flavour, liver should be helped 
 
 with it. 
 
 Poultry. Poultry requires skilful 
 carving ; the requisites are grace of 
 manner, ease in the performance, a 
 perfect knowledge of the position of 
 the joints, and the most complete mode 
 of dissecting, so as to obtain the largest 
 quantity of meat. In no case is this 
 ability more demanded than in carving 
 a Roast Turkey. Unless this is done well, there is not only much 
 waste, but the appearance of the turkey is spoiled. You will com- 
 mence by carving slices from each side of the breast* in the same 
 directions as the lines marked in the engraving, cutting from a to b. 
 Now remove the legs, dividing the thighs from the drumsticks, and 
 here an instrument termed a Ais.joim.ter will be found serviceable, for 
 umless the turkey be very young, and the union of the joints very 
 accurately taken, dislocation becomes difficult': the disjointer effects 
 the separation at once, and it possesses also the advantages of 
 enabling the carver to divide a thigh into two, thus permitting a less 
 bulky portion ©f a part much esteemed to he served. The pinions 
 aad &at portion of the body removed with it, are always a delicacy, 
 and care should be taken to carve them nicely; the joint of the 
 
 Roast Turkey. 
 
24 
 
 ON CARVING. 
 
 Boiled Turkey. 
 
 pinion will be found at b. The stuffing, whether truffles or whatever 
 it may be made of, you will obtain by making an opening at c. 
 
 Boiled Turkey is trussed in a dif- 
 ferent fashion to the roast, but the same 
 directions given for the first applies .to 
 the second. The legs in the boiled 
 turkey being drawn into the body may 
 cause some little difficulty at first in 
 their separation, but a little practice will 
 soon surmount it. 
 Tuekey Poults. Eefer to directions for carving pheasants. 
 
 Roast Fowl. This operation is a 
 nice and skilful one to perform, it 
 requires both observation and practice. 
 Insert the knife between the legs and 
 the side, press back the leg with the 
 blade of the knife, and the joint will 
 disclose itself: if young it will part, but 
 at best, if judiciously managed, will 
 require but a nick where the.joints unite. Eemove your wing from 
 d to b, cut through and lay it back as with the leg, separating the 
 joint with the edge of your knife, remove the merrythought and neck 
 bones next, this you will accomplish by inserting the knife and 
 forcing it under the bones, raise it and it will readily separate from 
 the breast. You will divide the breast from the body by cutting 
 through the small ribs down to the vent, turn the back uppermost, 
 now put your knife into about the centre between the neck and 
 rump, raise the lower part firmly yet gently, it will easily separate, 
 turn the neck or rump from you, take off the side bones and the fowl 
 is carved. 
 
 Roast Fowl. 
 
 Boiled Fowl (breast). 
 
 In separating the thigh from the 
 knife exactly at the joint 
 engraving, this however will 
 for the joint must be &c- 
 difficulty will be experienced 
 sunder. There is no dif- 
 and boiled fowls if full 
 fowl when roasted, the 
 The wings and breast are in 
 leg of a young fowl is an 
 when very fine and roasted, 
 from the breast. 
 
 Boiled Fowl (back). ■* ' 
 
 drumstick, you must insert the 
 as we have indicated in the 
 be found to require practice, 
 curately hit, or else much 
 in getting the parts a- 
 ference in carving roast 
 grown; but in a very young 
 breast is served whole, 
 the highest favour, but the 
 excellent part. Capons 
 should have slices carved 
 
ON CARVING. 
 
 25 
 
 Goose Roast. 
 
 Geese. Follow with your knife the 
 lines marked in the engraving, a to b, 
 and cut slices, then remove the wing, 
 and if the party he large the legs must 
 also he removed, and here the disjointer 
 will again prove serviceable. The 
 stuffing, as in the turkey, will be 
 obtained by making an insertion at the 
 apron c. 
 
 Pheasant. Clear the leg by inserting the 
 edge of the knife between it and the body, then 
 take off the wings, b to a, but do not remove 
 much of the breast with them, you are thus ena- 
 bled to obtain some nice slices ; the pheasant is 
 then carved as a fowl. The breast is first in 
 estimation, then the wings, and after these the 
 merry-thought; lovers of game prefer a leg. 
 
 FheaBant. 
 
 Guisea Fowl are carved in the same manner. 
 
 Partridge. Separate the legs, and then 
 
 divide the bird into three parts, leaving each leg 
 
 and wing together. The breast is then divided 
 
 from the back, and helped whole, the latter being 
 
 assisted with any of the other parts. When the 
 
 party consists entirely of gentlemen only, the 
 
 bird is divided into two by cutting right through 
 
 Partridge. from the vent to the neck. 
 
 Quails, Landsail, Wheat-ears, Larks, and all small birds are 
 
 served whole. 
 
 Grouse and Plover are carved as partridges. 
 Snipe and Woodcock are divided into two parts ; the trail being 
 served on a toast. 
 
 Wild-duck and Widgeon. The breast of these fowls being the 
 best portion is carved in slices, which, being removed, a glass of old 
 port made hot is poured in, the half of a lemon seasoned with cay- 
 enne and salt, should then be squeezed in the slices, relaid in their 
 places, and then served, the joints being removed the same as in 
 other fowl. 
 
 Pigeon. Like woodcock, these 1 
 birds are cut in half, through the ! 
 breast and back, and helped. 
 
 Pigeon (breast). 
 
 Pigeon (back). 
 
ON CAUVING. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 and Fork. 
 
 Fish should never be carved with steel; assisting requires more 
 care ihan knowledge , the principal caution is to avoid breaking the 
 
 ing a piece of 
 engraved, ©ut 
 from a to b, and 
 pieces of the bel- 
 tion marked 
 best flavoured is 
 thick part, 
 flat pieces as 
 engraving with- 
 bone, the fin, 
 a 'delicacy, is al- 
 it. 
 
 as plaice, brill, 
 carved in the 
 soles are cut 
 or, if very large, 
 three, cutting 
 
 flakes. In carv 
 salmon as here 
 thin slices, as 
 help with it 
 ly in the direc- 
 from c to t> ; ihe 
 the upper or 
 
 TtJRBOT. Cut 
 
 marked in the 
 out moving the 
 which is esteemed 
 ways served with 
 All flat fish, such 
 John-dory, &c. are 
 same manner : 
 either in halves, 
 
 are divided into Tmiwrt. 
 
 right througk Flounders are served whole. 
 
 Cod's Head and Shoulders. Carry the knife from a to b, and 
 
 then along the 
 slices accompa- 
 of the sound, 
 found lining the 
 which you may 
 ing the knife 
 back-bone at c, 
 piece of liver, 
 parts lie in this 
 inquiry you will 
 
 Cod's Head. 
 
 line to c, help 
 nied by some 
 which is to be 
 back, and 
 
 obtain by pass- 
 under the 
 serve also a 
 Many choice 
 dish, and by 
 soon ascertain 
 
 the parts preferred. The jaw-bone from its gelatinous nature is 
 considered by some a dainty, and the head generally, including eyes 
 and palate, is a favourite with many. . 
 
 H&bdock-. It is dressed whole, unless unusually large. When 
 sent to table it is split its whole length, and served one-half the head 
 to the tail of the other part; it is carved across. 
 
ON CARVING. 
 
 27 
 
 Mackerel should always be sent to table head to tail, divide the 
 
 A Dish of Mackerel. 
 
 Whitings when fried have the tail passed through 
 the eyes, and fastened. They are eaten thus. 
 
 Jack or Pike are served in many ways. When 
 baked the back and belly should be slit up, and each 
 slice gently drawn downwards, by this means fewer 
 bones will be given. Fried whiting. " 
 
 However accurate may be our descriptions, yet like all others of 
 this kind, the true elements of success will be found in practice. 
 Carve at home when practicable, and out also, bearing in mind the 
 rules given, exerting a degree of self-confidence, remembering as an 
 adage, that elegance, not strength, is required to carve well. 
 
 % 
 
 EEEF. 
 
 A Bullock matted as cut into joints by the Butcher. 
 
 A Sirloin. 
 B Rump. 
 C Aitchbone. 
 D Buttock. 
 E Mouse Buttock 
 F Veiny Piece. 
 G Thick Flank. 
 H Thin Flank. 
 I Leg, 
 
 K Fore Ribs, containing five ribs. 
 
 L Middle Rib, containing four ribs. 
 
 M Chuck' Rib, containing three ribs. 
 
 N Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton piece. 
 
 Brisket. 
 
 P Clod. 
 
 Q, Neck, or Sticking Piece. 
 
 R Shin. 
 
 S Check. 
 
 The baron of beef is formed of the pieces marked A, B, united on both sides. 
 
28 
 
 ON CARVING. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 The calf is divided into joints by the butcher, upon a system which unite the 
 methods employed for cutting up both beef and mutton. 
 
 A The Loin (best end). 
 B The Loin (chump end). 
 C The Fillet. 
 D The Hind Knuckle. 
 E The Fore Knuckle. 
 
 F Neck (best end). 
 G Neck (scrag). 
 H Blade Bone. 
 I Breast (best end). 
 K Breast (Brisket). 
 
 PORK. 
 
 The Pig is thus divided : — 
 
 A The Fore Loin. I C The Belly, or Spring. 
 
 B The Hind Loin. j D The Hand. 
 
 E The Leg. 
 The spare rib is under the shoulder, which, when removed in a porker, leaves 
 part of the neck without a skin upon it, forming the spare rib. The head is much 
 liked by many, and appears at table dressed in various ways. 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 The Sheep is thus apportioned by English butchers. 
 
 A The Leg. 
 B Loin (the best end). 
 C Loin (chump end). 
 D Neck (best end). 
 
 E Neck (scrag end). 
 F Shoulder. 
 G Breast. 
 
ON CARVING. 
 
 29 
 
 The saddle originally was formed of the two necks, it is now the two loins. 
 The chine is the union of the two necks, but it is very rarely seen at table. 
 
 The Scotch plan of carving mutton carcasses, according to a very able article on 
 domestic economy, published by Messrs. Chambers of Edinburgh, differs some- 
 what from our own, as willbe seen by the accompanying diagrams. 
 
 English mode. Scotch mode. 
 
 In the English mode, A marked in 
 a circle is the shoulder, separated from 
 the neck and breast ; B, the scrag end 
 of the neck, C is the best end, D is the 
 breast, E the loin, and F the leg, which, 
 when formed with E, makes the haunch. 
 
 In the Scotch mode, A is the leg, B 
 the loin, which, with the leg, forms the 
 hind quarter ; C is the back rib, and D 
 the breast ; C and D form the fore 
 quarter; the dotted line across the 
 body denotes where the fore and hind 
 quarters divide. 
 
 VENISON. 
 
 A Haunch. | C Shoulder. 
 
 B Neck. I D Breast. 
 
 Buck and Doe Venison are cut up in a similar fashion. 
 
30 TO CHOOSE MEATS. 
 
 TO CHOOSE. MEATS. 
 
 Venison. — The choice of venison Bhould be regulated by the 
 appearance of the fat, which, when the venison is young, looks 
 bright, thick, clear, and close. It first changes towards the 
 haunches. To ascertain whether it is sweet, run a knife into that 
 part ; if tainted it will have a rank smell. It should not be. cooked 
 if too high. 
 
 Beef. — True, well-fed beef may be known by the texture and 
 colour ; the lean will exhibit an open grain of deep coral-red, and 
 the fat will appear of a healthy, oily smoothness, rather inclinihg 
 to white than yellow. The suet firm and white. Yellow fat is a 
 test of meat of an inferior quality. Heifer- beef is but little in- 
 ferior to ox beef; the lean is of a closer grain, the red paler, and 
 the fat whiter. Cow beef may be detected by the same signs, 
 save that the older the beast the texture of the meat will appear 
 closer, and the flesh coarser to the sight, as well as harder to the 
 touch. Scotch cattle, bred in English pastures, produce the best 
 beef. The Devon and Hereford stock affords good, beef; the Lin- 
 colnshire breed will not bear comparison with it. 
 
 Veai. — When you observe the kidney well surrounded with fat, 
 you may be sure the meat is of a good quality. The whitest is not 
 the best veal ; but the flesh of the bull-calf is a brighter colour than 
 that of the cow-calf. The fillet of the latter is generally preferred, 
 on account of the udder. There is a vein in the shoulder very 
 perceptible ; and its colour indicates the freshness of the meat ; if 
 a bright red or blue, it is recently killed ; if any green or yellow 
 spots are visible, it is stale. The suet will be flabby, and the 
 kidney will smell. 
 
 Mutton. — The best, is of a fine grain, a bright colour, the fat firm 
 and white. It is better for being full-grown. The meat of the ewe 
 is not so bright, while the grain is closer. The ram mutton may 
 be known by the redness of the fleshj and the sponginess of the 
 fat. 
 
 Lamb should be eaten very fresh. In the fore quarter, the vein, 
 in the neck being any other colour than blue betrays it to be stale. 
 In the hind quarter, try the kidney with your nose ; the faintness 
 of its smell will prove it to be stale. 
 
 Poke. — In young gamfetn©' leam-when. pinched will break ; the 
 thickness and toughness of the; rik"di shows it to be old. In fresh 
 pork the flesh is firm, smooth, a clear color; and the fat set. "When 
 stale it looks clammy and flabby. Measly pork may be detected 
 by the kernels in the fat ;, it should not be eaten. Dairy-fed pork 
 bears the palm over all others. 
 
 Bacon. — Excellent young bacon may be thus known: — the 
 lean will be tender and of a bright colour ; the fat firm and white, 
 yet bearing a pale rose tinge ; the rind thin, and the lean tender 
 to the touch. Busty bacon has yellow streaks in it. 
 
TO CHOOSE FISH. 31 
 
 Hams. — The test of a sweet ham is to pass a sharp knife to th» 
 bone, and when drawn out smell it ; if the knife is, daubed greasy, 
 and the scent disagreeable, it is bad. A good ham will present an 
 agreeable smell when the knife is withdrawn. 
 
 POULTRY AND GAME, TO CHOOSE. 
 
 Tuekey. — The cock bird when young has a smooth black leg 
 with a short spur. The eyes bright and full, and moist supple feet 
 when fresh ; the- absence of these signs denotes age and stateness.; 
 the hen may be judged by the same rules. 
 
 Fowls like a turkey ;, the young cock has a smooth leg and a 
 short spur ; when fresh the vent is close and dark. Hens when 
 young have smooth legs and combs; when old these will be rough; 
 a good capon has a thick belly and large rump, a poll comb and a 
 swelling breast. 
 
 Q-eese.- In young geese the feet and bills will be yellow and 
 free from hair. "When fresh the feet are. pliable ; they are stiff 
 when stale.. 
 
 Ducks may be selected by the same rules. 
 
 Pigeons, when fresh, have supple feet, and the vent will be firm j 
 if discoloured and supple they are stale. 
 
 PtQVEBS* when fat, have hard vents; but, like almost allother 
 birds, may be chosen by the above rules. 
 
 Hakes.— When a hare is young and fresh, the cleft in the lip is 
 narrow, the body stiff,, the ears, tear easily, and the claws are 
 smooth and sharp ; and old and stale hares will be the opposite 
 of this.. Babbits the same. 
 
 Paeteidgea.— Yellow legs and a dark bill are signs by which a 
 young bird may be known, and a rigid vent when fresh. When this 
 part is green the bird is stale. 
 
 Pheasants may be chosen as above ; the young birds are known 
 by the short or round spur, which in the old is long and pointed. 
 
 Mooe Game. — Grouse, Woodcocks, Snipes, Quails, Ortolans, 
 &c., may be chosen by the rules above given. 
 
 TO CHOOSE PISH. 
 
 TuBBOTi— Wben good are thick, and. tb& belly ia white with a. 
 faint yellow tinge. 
 
 Salmon— Th& fish stiff; the scales very bright, the belly thick, 
 the gills, a brilliant coleur, and the flesh, when cut a beautiful red,, 
 vjtill prove it to be a finer fresh fish. It cannot be too fresh. 
 
 Cod.-— The best fish are thick at the neck,, very red gills, firm 
 white flesh, bright, and blood-shot eyes, and small head. 
 
 Skate,— The finest have very thick bodies* and should be very 
 white. ,, u , 
 
 Heeeings.— Very red gills,, blood-shot, eyes, very bright scales* 
 and the fish stiff, shows them to be. good and fcesh. 
 
 Soles.— Thick bodies, the. bellies, of a. creamy white,, show them 
 
32 TO CHOOSE FISH. 
 
 to be good : a flabby sole, with a pale blue tinge on the belly, 
 Bhould be avoided. 
 
 Elotjndees may be chosen as above. 
 
 "Whitings. — A clear colour and firm bodies, indicate a superior 
 quality. 
 
 Mackeeel. — Bright eyes, thick bodies, the prismatic colours 
 very predominant on the belly, denote freshness and goodness. 
 
 Pike, Caep, Tench, Perch,- Smelts, Gudgeons, &c, may be 
 judged by the above rules. 
 
 Mullet. — The red are preferred to the grey, and the sea to the 
 river. They are a delicious fish when properly cooked. 
 
 Eels. — The Thames, or silver eel, are the best ; the Dutch are 
 not good ; the bright silver-hued belly and thickness of back, are 
 the guides in their selection. 
 
 SHELL FISH. 
 
 Lobstees. — To be had in perfection should be boiled at home; 
 choose the heaviest. "When they are boiled the tail should have a 
 good spring ; the cock lobster has a narrow tail in which the two 
 uppermost fins are stiff and hard ; the hen has a broad tail, and 
 these fins are softer. The male has the best flavour ; the flesh is 
 firmer, and the colour when boiled is brighter than the hen. 
 
 Ce£bs, like lobsters, should be selected by weight; when prime 
 the leg-joints are stiff and the scent pleasant. 
 
 Peawns and Sheimps should be bright and the bodies firm and 
 stiff; when they are limp and soft they are stale. 
 
 Otstees. — There are many sorts of oysters ; when the oyster 
 is alive the shell will close upon the knife ; the common oyster 
 should be used for sauce, and the natives, of which there are 
 several kinds, should be sent to table. 
 
 EEMAEKS ON TABLE KNIVES. 
 
 The same rule applies to Table Cutlery as to all other cutting 
 instruments, viz., that they must be frequently sharpened. A servant 
 who understands knife-cleaning, will, before taking them off the 
 board, draw them briskly a few times from back to edge (raising the 
 back a little) first on one side, then on the other, and thus produce an 
 excellent edge ; whereas a clumsy inexperienced hand will (by not 
 holding them flat on the board) contrive to give the best steel a dull 
 edge. Hence the necessity of an efficient steel, in using which, care 
 should be taken to raise the back of the knife a quarter of an inch 
 from the steel. Servants are apt, in cleaning knives, to allow the 
 arm to take its natural ball and socket, or half-circular movement, 
 this of course, must completely round and thicken the edge and wear 
 the back. Strict injunctions should be given to keep the knife always 
 flat on the board. The best knives when new, will not cut, unless 
 the above directions are strictly enforced. 
 
AETICLES IN SEASON. 33 
 
 ARTICLES FOR THE TABLE 
 
 IN SEASON FOR EACH MONTH OF THE YEAR. 
 
 JANTJAEY. 
 
 Meats. — Beef, mutton, veal, pork, house-lamb. 
 
 Poultry. — Pheasants, partridges, hares, rabbits, woodcocks, 
 snipes, turkeys, pullets, capons, fowls, and pigeons. 
 
 Fish. — Oysters, prawns, crabs, lobsters, cray-fish, whitings, 
 smelts, sturgeon, skate, turbot, plaice, thornback, flounders, 
 perch, tench, and carp. 
 
 Vegetables. — Cabbage and sprouts, sorrel, endive, spinach, beet- 
 root, celery, scorzanera, potatoes, parsnips, turnips, broccoli 
 shalots, lettuces, cresses, salsify, cucumbers, and. asparagus; mush- 
 rooms all the year. 
 
 Fruits. — Pears, apples, nuts, grapes, medlars, and walnuts. 
 
 EEBEUAEY and MAECIL 
 
 All meats and game as in the former month, with the addition of 
 chickens and ducklings. 
 
 Fish. — Exactly as last month, excepting cod, which is not sup- 
 posed to be quite so good, up to July. 
 
 Vegetables. — Just the same as the previous month, only now 
 you* have kidney beans. 
 
 Fruits. — Apples and pears, and forced strawberries. 
 
 APBIL, MAT, and JUNE— One Qttaetee. 
 
 Meats. — Beef, mutton, veal, lamb, and in June venison. 
 
 Poultry. — Pullets, fowls, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, rabbits,' 
 and leverets. 
 
 Vegetables as before, only in Mat early potatoes, peas, rad- 
 ishes, Erench, beans, early cabbages, carrots and turnips, cauli- 
 flowers, asparagus, artichokes, and all kinds of salad, but this is 
 forced. 
 
 Fruits. — In June, strawberries, cherries, melons, green apricots, 
 currants, and gooseberries for tarts only. 
 
 Fish.— Carp, soles, tench, smelts, eels, trout, turbot, lobsters, 
 chub, salmon, herrings, cray-fish, mackerel, crabs, prawns, and 
 shrimps. 
 
 D 
 
34 ARTICLES IN SEASON. 
 
 JULY, AUGUST, and SEPTEMBER— Second Quabtee.. 
 
 Meats. — These are not different from the former^ months, ex- 
 cept Pork, which commences in September. 
 
 Poultry. — Pullets, fowlsj chickens and rabbits, pigeons and green 
 geese, leverets, turkeys; poults, the two former months ; wheatears 
 and geese in September. 
 
 Fish. — Cod, haddocks, flounders, skate, thornback, mullet, r pike 
 and carp, -eels and shell fish, but no oysters ; mackerel in July, it 
 is not so good in August. 
 
 Vegetables. — All as the previous months ; peas and beans. 
 
 Fruits. — July, strawberries, gooseberries, pine apples, plums of 
 all kinds, cherries, apricots, raspberries, melons, damsons, white 
 and red currants, pears, apples, grapes, nectarines, and peaches. 
 
 In August and September peaches, plumbs, filberts, figs, mul- 
 besrieSj cherries, apples and pears, nectarines, grapes, pines and 
 melons, strawberries. 
 
 OCTOBEE. 
 
 Meats do not differ, this is the season for good doe venison. 
 
 Poultry and Game. — Eowls of all kinds as the former quarter, 
 pheasants from the 1st October, partridges, larks, hares, wild 
 ducks ; late in the month, teal, snipes, widgeon, and grouse. 
 
 Fish. — Dories, smelts, pike, perch, halibuts, brills, carp, salmon, 
 trout, barbel gudgeon, tench, all shell fish. 
 
 Vegetables are now as in January month. 
 
 Fruits. — Peaches, pears, figs, bullaces, grapes, apples, medlars, 
 damsons, filberts, walnuts, nuts, quinces. 
 
 NOVEMBER 
 
 Meats.— Beef, mutton, veal, pork, house lamb, doe vension. c 
 Poultry, game, fish, vegetables, and fruits. — As the last month. 
 
 DECEMBER 
 
 Meats as the former month. 
 
 Poultry. — G-eese, turkeys, pullets, pigeons, capons, fowls, rab- 
 bits, hares, snipes, woodcocks, larks, pheasants, sea-fowls, Guinea 
 fowls, wild ducks, teal, widgeon, grouse, and dunbirds. 
 
 Vegetables. — As in the last month. 
 
 Fish. — Turbot, gurnets, soles, sturgeon, carp, gudgeon, eels, 
 codlings, dories, and shell fish of all kinds. 
 
MEAT SOU PI?. 35 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 Theee is no dish, perhaps, that comes to table which gives such 
 general satisfaction as -well prepared soup ; let the appetite be vigorous 
 or refined, an excellent'soup will always prove grateful to it ; and as 
 this is beyond contradiction, it should be the province of the cook to 
 be always in a position to produce it at a short notice. 
 
 There should always be plenty of dried herbs in the store closet ; 
 these may be purchased chiefly in quantities at the beginning of the 
 autumn of any market-gardener,' and kept at hand; Franklin tells 
 us that " everything should have its place, and there should be a 
 place for everything." The multiplicity of articles required by a 
 cook should induce her to bear this maxim in mind. Herbs may be 
 very well kept, as indeed, they are usually, in paper bags ; they 
 should be all labelled. When time is an important object the neces- 
 sity for this is obvious — they are always to be had when wanted, and 
 the bag should be immediately replaced after using. 
 
 There should be a saucepan, or kettle of iron well tinned, kept for 
 soup only ; we think the engraved specimen the best : remember, the 
 lid should fit tightly; there are several kinds, but the one we have given 
 will be found to answer all purposes, being especially -useful as a 
 " stock-pot." The inexperienced reader will understand by the term 
 " sfe>ck-pot," that soups being of two kinds, brown and white, have 
 different foundations, that of brown being always beef, and that of 
 white, veal; there are many ingredients in each, and it is the 
 various articles which, when put together, are called " stock," hence 
 the soup utensil is technically termed the stock-pot. 
 
 1. — SlOCK FOB BEOWN SOUP. 
 
 Firstly, let the kettle in which the soup is to be prepared, be 
 perfectly clean and dry; the hands of the cook should be so likewise • 
 then take about a pound of beef, which should be lean, and may be 
 either shin, leg, ox-cheek, or from the clod, indeed from any of the 
 inferior parts, always remembering it must be lean ; cut it in slices, 
 and place at the bottom of the saucepan with a tolerable sized piece 
 of salt butter, and a little water to prevent burning, but let the 
 quantity be small, the less the better : add a piece of lean bacon cut 
 in slices also ; if the quantity of stock be large, about a fourth the 
 quantity of the bacon to the beef will suffice, but when the 
 
 D 2 
 
36 M^AT SOUPS, 
 
 quantity of beef is small, the proportion of bacon should be nearly- 
 equal; cover the lid down close, and extract the gravy, permit 
 it nearly all to re-enter the meat, and then pour sufficient boiling 
 water — it must be boiling, for the quantity of soup required, 
 adding two or three onions if small, sweet herbs cut small, with 
 a few cloves, and et it stew slowly for four or five hours, propor- 
 tionably to the quantity of meat; the greater the quantity of meat 
 the longer the time required to stew. When the meat is quite tender 
 this will form the foundation for all the best brown soups ; this, if 
 well done, makes a delicious gravy soup ; if it should require brown- 
 ing, refer to the receipt for colouring soups and gravies. 
 
 Stock, in its composition, is not confined to the above receipt; 
 any meats or bones, stewable, will be useful in the stock-pot ; pieces 
 of beef, from any part, from which gravy can be extracted, bones, 
 shin-bones, brisket-bones, tops of ribs, ox-cheek, pieces of mutton, 
 bacon, ham, bones of either legs, heads of fowls, geese, or turkeys, 
 veal, knuckle, or other parts, game, hare, pheasant, partridges, if 
 they be old and fit for no other purpose ; indeed, anything which is 
 fit and proper to be eaten in the form of animal food, and in any 
 degree resolvable into a jelly, will assist in making stock. 
 
 To this medley of ingredients, which it will be found on trial will 
 produce the best soup that can be made, add carrots cut in thin 
 slices, herbs, onions, pepper, and salt ; when it has stewed slowly 
 for a short time, pour in the boiling water in proportion to the quan- 
 tity of meat and soup required ; then stew it until it is of a rich 
 consistency, take it from the fire, let it cool, remove the pot. If 
 required the following day, care should be taken that the deposit or 
 sediment is removed, as also the fat previous to warming ; if kept 
 long tiie pans must be changed ; there is as much danger in red 
 glazed earthenware as in metal pans ; the latter should never be 
 employed to keep gravies in, if possible. Wherever greater richness 
 is required, it may be obtained by the addition of the jelly of cow- 
 heel, or a lump of butter and flour. 
 
 Remember, soup is richer and better for being made the previ&us 
 day, or even two or three days previously to its being required, if it 
 be warmed each day; to be really good it must be well stewed. 
 
 2. — STOCK FOE WHITE SOUPS. 
 
 This is a soup, the foundation of which is veal, the knuckle, the 
 scrag, or calf's head being the best meat for the purpose, an old fowl, 
 a little ham, or bacon, mutton, sheep's head, &c, nearly the same 
 ingredients as for brown soups, save that there must not be much 
 beef, and the proportion of ham and bacon smaller in the latter than 
 former, and when made for white sauce, care must be taken to leave 
 out the pepper. 
 
 3. — white soup. 
 
 General directions for white stock have been given above, but to 
 prevent mistake, take a knuckle of veal, separated into three or four 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 37 
 
 pieces, a slice of ham as lean as possible, a few onions, thyme, cloves, 
 and mace, stew twelve or fourteen hours until the stock is as rich as 
 the ingredients can make it ; an old fowl will make it much richer if 
 added. This soup must be made the day before it is required, when 
 removed from the fire, after being sufficiently stewed, let it cool; and 
 then remove the fat; add to it four ounces of pounded blanched 
 almonds, let it boil slowly, thicken it with half a pint of cream and 
 an egg ; it should boil slowly for half an hour, and then be served. 
 
 ' 4. BEEF GRAVY. 
 
 Take three pounds of beef steaks, two rabbits, excepting the head 
 and breast, a knuckle of veal, five carrots, six onions, two cloves, two 
 bay leaves, a bunch of parsley, and scallions; put all these into a stew- 
 pan with two ladlefuls of broth, and set them over a good fire to re- 
 duce them, cover the stove, and let the stewpan stand over it until the 
 meat begins to give out the gravy, and adheres slightly; the jelly at 
 the bottom of the stewpan ought to be nearly black, and when that is 
 the case, take it from the stove, and let it stand for ten minutes, then 
 fill up the stewpan with good broth or water, if the latter not so large a 
 quantity, let this simmer for three hours, skim and season it well; if 
 water is used instead of broth, the gravy must be strained before it 
 is used. 
 
 5. — BEEP GRAVY. 
 
 Cut a piece of the cheek or neck into pieces, strew some flour 
 over it, mix it well with the meat, and put it into the saucepan with 
 as much water as will cover it, an onion, a little allspice, a little 
 pepper, and some salt, cover it close, and when it boils skim it, then 
 throw in a small crust of bread, or raspings, and stew it till the gravy 
 is rich and good,- strain it off, and pour it into a sauce boat. 
 
 6. GRAVY. — CLEAR. 
 
 Slice some beef thinly, broil a part of it over a very clear quick 
 fire just enough to give colour to the gravy, but not to dress it ; put 
 that with the raw into a tinned stewpan with a couple of onions, 
 one or two cloves, whole black pepper, berries of allspice, and a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, cover it with hot water, give it one boil, and 
 Skim it two' or three times, then cover it, and let it simmer till quite 
 strong. 
 
 7. — gravy sour. 
 Nothing is better than shin of beef for this soup, though pieces of 
 the rump and other parts are used; the shin should be sawed in 
 several places, and the marrow extracted ; this, if laid in the bottom 
 of! the saucepan will take the place of butter; if marrow is not forth- 
 coming butter must be employed ; take a fourth of the quantity of 
 ham, stew gently until the gravy is' extracted, care being taken it 
 
38 MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 does not burn ; a little water may be employed by the inexperienced, 
 but not much ; -when it ha3 nearly dried up again put in herbs, a 
 couple of carrots cut very small, pepper ground, salt, a little white 
 sugar, this can be omitted, but it materially adds to the flavour ; add 
 boiling water in requisite quantity, stew gently for five hours ; when 
 cold remove the fat, and warm up as wanted. 
 
 8. — GRAVY SOUP. 
 Take a leg of beef and well wash' and soak it, break the bone and 
 put it into a saucepan with a gallon of water, a large bunch of sweet 
 herbs, two large onions sliced and fried to a nice brown, taking great 
 care they are not burnt, two blades of mace, three cloves, twenty 
 berries of allspice, and forty of black pepper, stew till the soup is as 
 rich as you wish it to be, then take out the meat, when it is cold take 
 off the fat, heat the soup with vermicelli, and the nicest part of a 
 head of celery boiled and cut to pieces, cayenne, and a little salt, 
 carrot may be added with turnip cut into small pieces and boiled with 
 spinach and endive, or the herbs without the vermicelli, or vermicelli 
 only, add also a large spoonful of soy and one of mushroom ketchup, 
 a French roll should be made hot and put into the soup. 
 
 9. BLOOD OR VEAL GRAVY. 
 
 Put a few slices of ham into a thick stewpan, and lay over it some 
 slices of lean veal, half cover the meat with jelly stock, stew it over 
 a brisk fire, taking care that it does not burn, when the broth is 
 reduced thrust a knife into the meat so that the gravy may run out, 
 then stewing it more gently till brown, turning the meat frequently, 
 when of a dark red colour moisten with hot stock, season with shred 
 mushrooms, parsley, and green onions, when it has boiled an hour 
 skim and strain it through a tammy for use to clarify. 
 
 10.— ox TAIL. 
 One tail will do for a tureen of soup ; cut it into joints, — but in town 
 your butcher will cut it for you — blanch it a few minutes in water, then 
 add some good clear second stock to the pieces, and let them gently 
 boil until tender, skim off all grease from them, add sufficient con- 
 Bomme stock you require, add exactly the same roots as for saute 
 soup, only differing in shape and siae, similar to the roots you would 
 cut for a haricot, and use small button onions instead of the cut 
 onions, season as before, dish your meat into the soup tureen with a 
 large ragout spoon, or you will smash them to pieces. 
 
 11. — OX-TAIL SOUP. 
 
 Same as No. 7 ; add about three ox-tails, separated at the joints, 
 when the meat upon them is tender it is done ; they must not be 
 over stewed ; add a spoonful of ketchup or Harvey's sauce, and send 
 to table with pieces of the tail in the soup. 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 39 
 
 12. — MACOABONI SOUP. 
 
 Cut some pipe maccaroni, 'about an inch long, after you have 
 blanched it ; do not boil it too much ; it will take longer than vermi- 
 , celli ; keep the pieces in cold water until you require them for your 
 eoup, when you will strain them off and add to your consomme ; season 
 as for Italian soup ; send up on a small plate or dish, on a napkin, 
 some grated Parmesan cheese. 
 
 13. MACCAEONI SOUP. 
 
 Take a given weight of maccaroni in proportion to the quantity of 
 soup required, say one pound, boil it in a quart of white stock until 
 it is tender, take out one half and keep the other boiling until it is 
 reduced to a pulp. Add sufficient stock until tbe whole with half a 
 pint of cream, boiling, makes five pints ; grate eight ounces of 
 . Parmesan cheese, and add the half of the maccaroni which had been 
 only boiled tender, warm it without boiling, serve with toast. 
 
 14. SAGO SOUP. 
 
 Take three pounds of lean beef, a slice of lean ham, and lay them 
 in a stewpan with a lump of butter, draw the gravy gently, add two 
 quarts of water, and a sliced onion which has been browned by frying 
 in fresh butter, add a bunch of sweet herbs, six cloves, a blade of 
 mace, a tea-spoonful of allspice, and one of black pepper whole, stew 
 until the soup is rich and brown, then remove the meat and strain 
 the soup clear, put it into a clean stewpan, thicken it to a good con- 
 sistency with sago. 
 
 15. — baked sour. 
 
 Cut into slices a pound and a half of lean beef, put it into a stew- 
 pan or earthenware jar, and three onions sliced, the same number of 
 carrots, cut up, add also three ounces of rice, which has been soaked 
 two hours previously and 'thoroughly washed, a pint of white peas, 
 season with pepper and salt, cover down close, and bake two hours. 
 
 16. — CUEET SOUP. 
 
 ,Cut the meat from an oxrcheek, and soak it well, put it in a stew- 
 pan, with four onions cut in slices, a bunch of pot herbs ; add three 
 quarts of water; remove the scum frequently, and strain; add half 
 a pound of soaked rice, one tea-spoonful of curry-powder, a little 
 pepper and salt; and stew four hours. 
 
 17. — soup and bouilli. 
 Stew a brisket of beef with some turnips and carrots, onions, and 
 celery, all cut Small ; put the beef into the pot first, then the roots, 
 add a few cloves and half a pint of beef gravy, simmer an hour, add 
 sufficient beef gravy to fill the pan, boil gently for half an hour. 
 
40 MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 18. — soup a la sap. 
 
 Divide a pound of beef into thin slices, grate half a pound of 
 potatoes, and put them in three quarts of water, add an onion, a pint 
 of grey peas and three ounces of rice, reduce it by boiling to five 
 pints, cut two heads of celery and put them into the atewpan, pour 
 upon them the five pints of soup and pulp the boiled peas into it 
 through a fine tammy or coarse cloth, stew until it is quite tender, 
 season with pepper and salt, and serve up with fried bread cut in 
 dice. 
 
 19. — HESSIAN soup. 
 
 Cut into slices three pounds of shin of beef, lay it in a stewpan, 
 put in three onions, five carrots, eight potatoes, a pint and a quarter 
 of split peas, three heads of celery, some whole pepper, salt ; pour 
 in by degrees seven quarts of water, stew until reduced to half. If 
 the soup alone be required strain off the vegetables, if not, serve as 
 cooked. 
 
 20. COCK-A-LEEKIE. 
 
 Put into a stewpan as much beef stock as you desire to send to 
 table ; put in an old fowl, six leeks sliced about two inches long ; 
 stew gently half an hour previous to serving ; put in six to eight 
 ounces of prunes ; serve the fowl on a separate dish. 
 
 21. SODP A LA FEANgAISE. 
 
 Place in the stew-pan six pounds of beef, add a few small veal 
 bones, or one about a pound weight, add a couple of fowls' heads, and 
 a small piece of calf s liver, cover with four quarts of water ; when it 
 boils remove the scum, add three or four leeks, a couple of turnips, 
 head of celery, a burnt onion, a large carrot, salt, simmer slowly 
 seven hours; let every particle of scum be removed, serve with 
 sippets of bread in the soup. 
 
 22. — A CHEAP SOUP. 
 
 A pound or a pound and a half of beef lean, cut up into small 
 pieces, add six quarts of water,, three large onions, double the quan- 
 tity of turnips ; put in thyme, parsley, pepper, and salt, half a pound 
 of rice, a pound of potatoes, peeled and cut in quarters, handful 
 of oatmeal ; stew from three to four hours, not less. 
 
 23. A GOOD AND CHEAP SOUP. 
 
 Cut in slices four pounds of lean beef, mutton if lean will answer 
 the same purpose, fry them brown, and lay them with their gravy in 
 the stew-pan, cut six carrots and as many turnips in slices, the latter 
 
MEAT SOUPS. 41 
 
 may be only quartered, three tolerably sized onions, two table spoon- 
 fuls of black pepper whole, and two heads of celery with their green 
 tops on, let it boil and then simmer till the meat is reduced to a pulp, 
 strain it, and serve with or without the vegetables. 
 
 24.-- PORTABLE SOUP. 
 
 There are many advantages connected with this soup, which will 
 present themselves to the lady housekeeper, its constant readiness for 
 use, its forming an excellent stock for gravies, sauces, or soups ; a 
 few minutes will suffice to make a bason of soup from it. 
 
 Take three pounds of beef, a shin of beef, the bones of which 
 break, a cow-heel and two small knuckles of veal, put them in a 
 stewpan and add as much water as will barely cover them, put in 
 three onions and seasoning to taste, stew the meat to ribbons, strain, 
 and then put it in the coldest place you can command, when 
 thoroughly cold take off the fat and boil it fast in a stewpan without 
 the lid on a quick fire, let it boil and keep it stirred for at least eight 
 hours, pour it into a pan and let it stand twenty-four hours, then take 
 your largest lip bason and turn the soup into it, boil sufficient water 
 in the stewpan to reach as high outside the bason which is placed in 
 it as the soup is inside, but do not let any bubble into the bason, 
 keep the water boiling until the water is reduced to a good con- 
 sistency; it will be then done; it should then be poured into small 
 jelly pots, or in saucers, so as to form cakes when cold, and is best 
 preserved in tin canisters put in dry cool places. 
 
 This soup may receive various flavours of herbs or any thing else, 
 by boiling the herbs or other ingredients, and straining the simples 
 noted through water, making it boil, and then melt the soup in it. 
 
 25. — CONSOMME. 
 
 Take eight or ten' pounds of beef-steaks, eight old hens, two young 
 ones, four knuckles of veal, put these into a large pot and fill it with 
 strong broth, skim it well, cooling it three or four times to make 
 the scum rise, after which let it boil gently. Put into the pot carrots, 
 turnips, onions, and three cloves; when your meat is sufficiently 
 done, pass the liquor through a fine napkin or sieve, that it may be 
 very clear. No salt need be put in if strong broth be used. 
 
 36. WHITE PORTABLE SOUP. 
 
 Procure as fine a leg of veal as can be obtained,, bone it, remove 
 tEe whole of the skin and fat, chop in pieces two dozen fowls' feet, 
 wash them well, put them into a large iron kettle with three gallons 
 of water, stew until the meat is tender enough to separate, coyer 
 down close and stew for eight hours, take a tea-cup and fill it with 
 the soup; set it where it can quickly cool, if when cold it is hard 
 enough to cut with a knife, strain through a sieve and remove all the 
 
42 MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 ■fat, pour into cups the clear jelly, put them into a stewpan with 
 boiling water until they are like glue; let them cool, and when nearly 
 <cold run a ring round them and turn them on to a piece of new 
 flannel, it will draw all the moisture out of them, turn them in seven 
 hours and continue until they are quite hard, put them in tin canisters 
 in a dry place. 
 
 When any is required, cut a piece about the size of a walnut, pour 
 a pint of boiling water upon it, stir until the soup is dissolved, season 
 with salt, it will make a basin of strong broth ; if for soup steep some 
 vermicelli in water ; boil it ; then to one cake of the soup pour one 
 pint of water, if two quarts or four pints of soup are required, take 
 four cakes of the soup, and when melted set it over the fire and 
 simmer, pour it into a soup tureen, add thin slices of bread very 
 lightly toasted, and upon them the vermicelli ; season to palate. 
 
 27. TRANSPARENT SOUP. 
 
 Cut the meat from a leg of veal in slices as thin as possible, break 
 the bone as small as possible, put the meat into a very large jar and 
 the bones at the top, with a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an 
 ounce of mace, four ounces of blanched garden almonds beat fine, 
 pour upon it a gallon of boiling water, let it simmer over a slow fire 
 twelve hours, all night is best ; turn it into a double-bottomed tin 
 saucepan, simmer until reduced to two quarts, remove as it rises the 
 scum, strain it and let it stand two hours, pour into a saucepan, 
 taking care not to let any of the sediment accompany it. 
 
 Steep two ounces of vermicelli in water, boil it and put it in the 
 soup before serving up. 
 
 28. SOUP ITALIENNE. 
 
 Cut the meat from a knuckle of -veal, break up the bones and 
 make a broth of them, cut half a pound of ham in slices and lay them 
 at the bottom of a stewpan, upon them the meat from the knuckle of 
 veal, with the slices of four carrots, four turnips, a dozen peppercorns, 
 two blades of mace, a large onion, and a head of celery; cover down 
 close; stew till the gravy is drawn out and the roots are quite tender, 
 pour over them the broth made from the bones of the knuckle until 
 they are covered, add six spoonfuls of rice, stew four hours, work the 
 soup through a sieve, add vermicelli before serving. 
 
 29. ITALIAN- soup. 
 
 Blanch about two ounces of Italian stew-paste (or any portion pre- 
 ferred) a few minutes, strain it off, and put it in a basin of cold 
 water until wanted, it must be boiled a short time in some good con- 
 somm6 stock ; season as before, using less sugar. 
 
 30. VERMICELLI SOUP. 
 
 Blanch as the Italian paste, but first give the vermicelli a squeeze 
 to break it a little, or otherwise it will hang disagreeably about the 
 
MEAT SOTJPS. 43 
 
 ladle or spoon im eating, at the risk of spoiling a lady's dress or 
 causing a confused blush. Season as before. 
 
 3t. ESPAGNOLE. 
 
 Take fourteen pounds of the leg or shoulder of veal and an old 
 fowl, chop the Teal into pieces, and put the whole into a saucepan, 
 two carrots, two onions, a pound of ham, a few peppercorns, a 
 small quantity of spice and a clove of garlic, let this stew over the 
 fire, shaking it frequently till it becomes of a brown colour, add hot 
 water to come four inches above the meat, set it by the stove to boil 
 gently, skimming when the meat comes from the bones, strain it 
 through a silk sieve, and set it by for use. 
 
 32. SOUP A LA HEINE VICTORIA. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of lean veal, place it in a stewpan with a 
 slice of bacon which must not be fat, an onion with one clove, a blade 
 of mace, a head of celery, a handful of sweet herbs, four ounces of 
 fresh butter, and some whole white pepper, set it over a clear fire, 
 move it frequently to prevent burning, or the flavour is ruined. 
 Have some white gravy ready, thicken it, add two quarts to the above 
 ingredients with a few strips of mushrooms ; let it boil, and when it 
 reaches that point remove it, skim it clean of all scum or fat. Have 
 ready some vermicelli which has been soaked five minutes in cold 
 water and subsequently stewed in a strong broth ; strain on it the 
 soup and serve with blanched chervil leaves in it. 
 
 33. MULLICJATAWNEY SOUP. 
 
 A calfs head divided, well cleaned, place with a cow-heel, in a 
 well tinned saucepan ; boil $hem till tender, let them cool, cut the 
 meat from the bones in slices, and fry them in butter, stew the 
 bones of the head and heel for some hours ; when well stewed, strain, 
 let'it get cold and remove the fat. When this is accomplished cut 
 four onions in slices, flour them, fry them in butter until brown, add 
 a table-spoonful and a half of best curry powder obtainable, cayenne 
 pepper one tea-spoonful with a little salt, turmeric powder sufficient 
 to fill a dessert spoon is sometimes added, but the improvement is 
 not manifest to a refined English palate, the curry powder being 
 deemed all that is necessary ; add these last ingredients to the soup, 
 boil gently for about an hour and a half, add two dessert-spoonfuls of 
 Harvey's sauce ; serve. 
 
 34. INDIAN METHOD. 
 
 Slice six onions, and seven or eight shalots, place in stewpan with 
 sis ounces of butter, cut a pair of young fowls, as though for fricasee, 
 season copiously with white pepper, place the chickens upon 
 the onions, stew gently rather more than an hour ; then remove the 
 
44 MEAT SOUPS. 
 
 pieces of chicken, flour each well, put them again in the pan, with 
 four dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, add one of turmeric ; pour 
 at least two quarts of gravy to this, and stew slowly for an hour, add 
 a small quantity of cayenne pepper, with lemon juice, that of half 
 a lemon will suffice. 
 
 Boil a pound of best rice until soft ; serve in a separate dish, boxed 
 with small pieces of toast cut into squares, 
 
 A rabbit will serve the same purpose as a chicken. 
 
 35. — CALVES* FOOT SOUP A LA TUREEN. 
 
 This soup I frequently make from calves' feet, after having taken 
 the stock from them for jelly, but I do not boil them so much as 
 though I did not require them ; take out all the bones andjlay them 
 to get cold, then cut them into large square pieces ; if quite tender 
 to eat, put them into your tureen ; sweat' down a small slice of raw 
 ham and veal, a few mushrooms, two onions, a sprig of parsley, 
 a blade of mace, a large faggot of sweet herbs, with plenty of basil, 
 dry all well up with flour, strain it through a tammy cloth or sieve ; 
 season with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon, add a wine glass or two 
 of white wine at the last, then put in the cut meat to get hot. 
 
 36. — calves' tail soup. 
 
 Get three calves' tails, let them be cut in joints, and put into 
 (after blanching them) some good white stock, and stew them well 
 for several hours; proceed as for the former soup, season, likewise, 
 the same, but leave out the basil. 
 
 37. — lambs' tails soup. 
 
 Four lambs' tails, cut in joints, will make this soup, proceeding 
 the same way as the former, leaving out the sweet herbs; add cream,, 
 as to the former, and one glass of white wine. 
 
 38. — mutton soup. 
 
 Cut a neck of mutton into four pieces, put it aside, take a slice of 
 the gammon of bacon and put it in a saucepan with a quart of peas 
 with enough water to boil them, let the peas boil to a pulp and strain 
 them through a cloth, put them aside, add enough, water to that- in. 
 which is the bacon to boil the mutton, slice three turnips, as many 
 carrots, and boil for an hour slowly, add sweet herbs, onions, cabbage, 
 and lettuces chopped small, stew a quarter of an hour longer, suffi- 
 cient to cook the mutton, then take it out, take some fresh green peas, 
 add them with some chopped parsley and the peas first boiled to the 
 soup, put in a lump of butter rolled in flour, and stew till the green, 
 peas are done. 
 
MEAT SOUPS, 4£ 
 
 39. — LAMB SOUP 
 
 May be cooked as above, save that beef should be substituted for- the 
 bacon. 
 
 40. LEG OF BEEF BROTH. 
 
 Take a leg of beef, break the bone in several places, place it in a 
 pan -with a gallon of water, remove the scum as it rises and add three 
 blades of mace, a crust of bread, and a small bunch of parsley ; boil 
 till the beef is tender ; toast some bread, cut it in diamonds, lay it in 
 the bottom of the tureen, put the meat on it, and pour the broth over all. 
 
 41. — BROTH. 
 
 Put the mouse round of beef, a knuckle-bone of Teal, and a few 
 shanks ' of mutton into a deep pan, and cover it close with a dish of 
 coarse paste, put water enough to cover the meat, and bake it till 
 tender ; when cold let it stand in a cool place, covered close, flavour 
 it as you please. 
 
 42. VEAL BROTH. 
 
 Stew a knuckle of veal ; draw gravy as for stock, add four quarts 
 of water, with celery, parsley, and an onion ; simmer till reduced to 
 half, add two or three ounces of rice, but not until the soup is nearly 
 cooked, so that when served the rice may be no more than done. 
 Vermicelli may be used in preference, or for change. 
 
 43. MUTTON BROTH. 
 
 Three pounds of the scrag of mutton, put into two quarts of cold 
 water, add onion, and turnips, pepper, and salt, a few sweet herbs, 
 and a little pearl barley ; skim well, and boil four hours. 
 
 These ingredients chiefly depend upon whether this dish is made 
 for an invalid, if so, the omission of any of the ingredients will be 
 regulated according to the advice of the medical attendant. 
 
 44. — sheep's head broth. 
 Split the sheep's head and well wash it, take out the brains, let the 
 head soak for an hour in cold water ; boil three quarters of a pound 
 of Scotch barley in eight quarts of water, and when it boils put in 
 the head with a neck of mutton, slice carrots thin and cut turnips 
 small, add them with some salt; let it boil for three hours, and 
 skim with care and frequency. When it has boiled two hours and a 
 half add some onions chopped Yery fine. In warming up this soup 
 it must be stirred gently over a clear fire and allowed to boil no 
 longer than three minutes. 
 
46 SOUPS OP POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 
 
 45. — CHICKEN BEOTH. 
 
 Joint a chicken, wash the pieces, put them into a stewpan with 
 three pints of water, and add two ounces of rice, two or three blades 
 of mace, some white pepper whole, a pinch of salt: let it come to a 
 boil, skim frequently, simmer for three hours; boil for five minutes 
 in the soup some vermicelli, and serve with it in the soup. 
 
 46. SCOTCH BAELEY BEOTH. 
 
 Throw three quarters of a pound of Scotch barley into some clean 
 water, when thoroughly cleansed place it with a knuckle of veal in a 
 stewpan, cover it with cold water, let it slowly reach a boil, keep it 
 skimmed, add seven onions, and simmer for two hours, skim again 
 and add two heads of celery and two. turnips cut in slices or any 
 shape it pleases the cook ; add as much salt as required to make it 
 palatable, let it stew for an hour and a half, it must be well skimmed 
 before the broth is dished ; the meat must be previously removed and 
 the broth alone sent to table. 
 
 If it is intended to send the veal to table with it, dress it as fol- 
 lows ; take two pints of the broth and put it into a stewpan over a 
 clear fire, add two table-spoonfuls of flour to the broth, and keep the 
 broth stirring as you shake it in until it boils, add a little cayenne 
 pepper, two table-spoonfuls of port, boil for two minutes, strain it 
 over the veal and send to table. 
 
 SOUPS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 
 
 47. GIBLET SOUP. 
 
 Scald and clean thoroughly two sets of goose giblets or twice the 
 number of duck giblets, cut them in pieces, put them in three quarts 
 of stock, if water is used instead of stock add a pound of gravy beef, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of onions, half a table-spoonful of 
 whole white pepper, as much salt, and the peel of half a lemon; 
 cover all with water, stew, and when the gizzards are tender strain 
 the soup. 
 
 Now put into a stew-pan a paste made of an ounce of butter and a 
 spoonful of flour, stir it over the fire until brown, pour in the soup, 
 let it boil stirring it well all the while ; in ten minutes skim and 
 strain it, add a glass of Madeira, a salt-spoonful of cayenne, a dessert* 
 spoonful of mushroom ketchup, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, 
 serve up with the giblets in the soup, it should be sent to table as 
 hot as possible. 
 
 48. — gibbet soup. 
 
 Get two sets of giblets, "blanch them, and throw them into cold 
 water, then cut them in pieces about one inch long, the gizard, liver, 
 
SOUPS OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 47 
 
 and heart out in thin slices, put them into some good second stock 
 and stew them until tender, strain off some of that stock, cut up in 
 dice a piece of lean ham, two onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a few 
 mushrooms or the parings, a blade or two of mace, six cloves, a bay- 
 leaf, fry all a nice light brown ; if for brown giblet soup, dry all up 
 with flour, add the stock you have strained from the giblets and boil 
 it well, then strain it through a tammy or tammy sieve into the stew , 
 pan with the giblets, boil all together, clear off all grease, season with 
 salt, sugar, cayenne pepper, lemon-juice, and white wine. 
 
 If for white giblet soup, do not let your butter brown, and add 
 half a pint of good cream, and the wine, and lemon, the last thing, 
 in case of curdling your soup. 
 
 49. — HARE SOUP. 
 
 An old hare is fitted only for soup or jugging. To render it into 
 soup let it be cleaned, cut into pieces, add a pound and a half or two 
 pounds of beef, to which there is little or no fat; place it at the 
 bottom of the pan, add two or three slices of ham or bacon, or a 
 little of both, a couple of onions, and some sweet herbs, a,dd four 
 quarts of boiling water, let it stew to shreds, strain off the soup, and 
 take away the fat ; reboil it, add a spoonful of soy or Harvey's sauce, 
 send to table with a few force-meat balls. 
 
 50. — HAEE SOUP. 
 
 If possible procure a hare that has been coursed ; in skinning it, 
 and blowing it, take care of all the blood. Cut it up in small pieces, 
 add about six onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a bay leaf, four blades 
 of mace, six cloves, a few pepper-corns, about one pound of lean 
 ham cut in dice, a few mushrooms or parings, cover all with your 
 brown second stock, stew all until tender, then take up a few of the 
 best pieces of meat to go into your soup from the rest, take out all 
 the bones, then rub all the meat and stock through a tammy until 
 all the meat has gone clean through ; return it to your stewpan ; if 
 not thick enough, add a little flour and butter thin ; season with 
 cayenne pepper, salt, and port wine, then add the best pieces of meat 
 you had previously taken care of. Be sure it has been well skimmed 
 from grease. 
 
 5L — SOUP LOKRAINE. 
 
 Pound in a mortar a pound of blanched almonds, use a little 
 water, or they will oil ; add to these the meat of the breast and legs 
 of a roast fowl, and with the yolks of four poached eggs beat up into 
 a smooth mixture ; warm three quarts of white stock, stir in the 
 ingredients, and boil them over a slow fire. Chop the meat of the 
 legs, wings, and breast of a second fowl until it is minced fine ; 
 season it with nutmeg, pepper, salt, and finely pounded mace : melt 
 a lump of butter, strain a small quantity of the soup, and add to the 
 
48 SOUPS. OF POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 
 
 butter one spoonful; cut into slices two French rolls, crisp them be- 
 fore the fire, scoop out the crumb of a third roll, without damaging 
 the crust, fill it with the minced food; close the roll at each end, 
 and make it hot, and keep it so. Strain into a stewpan the soup* 
 and stew it until the consistency of cream ; lay the crisped shoes of 
 roll in the bottom of the tureen, pour the soup on to it, and serve up 
 with the roll containing the minced fowl floating in the centre. 
 
 52. — PABTRIDGE SOUP. 
 
 "When you have a brace of partridges which prove to be remarkably 
 old, convert them into soup, skin and cut them up, cut a handsome 
 slice of ham as lean as possible and divide it in four, or cut as many 
 thin slices, put them in the pan, add the partridges with an onion 
 sliced, some celery, and four ounces of butter, brown nicely without 
 burning, put them into the stewpan with one quart and a pint of 
 water, throw in a few white peppers whole, a shank of mutton, salt it 
 to palate, strain, add stewed celery, fried bread, and previous to its 
 boiling skim very clean and serve up. 
 
 53. — VELOUTE. 
 
 Take the cuttings and remains of any joints of fowls and veal you 
 may happen to have, weigh four pounds, and put into a large stewpan, 
 with some onions, carrots, parsley, scallions, three bay leaves, three 
 cloves, and a ladleful of stock, put your stewpan upon a brisk fire, skim 
 well, and be careful the meat does not stick ; when enough reduced add 
 as much stock as will nearly fill the stewpan, salt it well, give it 
 a boil, skim, and then put it on the side of the fire to simmer for two 
 hours, after which strain it through a tammy; make a white roux; 
 Stir into it for ten minutes a few champignons, then pour on it, a little at 
 a time, the above liquor, let it boil up once, skim, and set it again by 
 the side of the fire for an hour and a half, remove all fat, strain again 
 and then put by for use. The veloute, should be colourless, the whiter 
 it is the better. 
 
 54. — pigeon soup. 
 
 Take half a dozen of the fattest pigeons you can get, roast them 
 only sufficient to warm them through ; cut the meat from the bones ; 
 flour the latter well, and pound them in a mortar; stew them in 
 a pint and a half of good gravy, add a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour, a bunch of tarragon, chervil, a few onions, shalots, parsley, and 
 basil, a few turnips and carrots sliced, season with cayenne and one 
 blade of mace. Boil slowly two hours, pour, and pass through a 
 cullender. Pulp through a tammy, and then with the flesh of the 
 pigeons put them into a saucepan. Let it simmer one hour and 
 serve. 
 
SOUPS OP POULTRY, ©AME, ETC. 49 
 
 55. TURTLE, KILLED AND DEESSED. 
 
 Tie a strong cord round the hind fins of the turtle, then hang 
 it up ; tie another cord by way of pinion to both fins, that it should 
 not beat about and be troublesome to the person who cuts off the 
 head, then take off the head. All this do the evening before you in- 
 tend dressing it ; then lay the turtle on the back shell on your block, 
 then loosen the shell round the edge by cutting it with your sharp 
 knife, then gently raise the shell clean off from the flesh, then next 
 take out the gall with great care, then cut the fore fins off — all the 
 flesh will come with them, then cut the hind fins off, take the liver 
 as whole as you can from the entrails, likewise the heart and the kid- 
 neys ; cut the entrails from the back bone, put them in a bucket 
 of water, wash the shell in several waters, and turn it down to 
 drain. In the meantime cut the fins from the lean meat, then cut 
 the white or belly shell in twelve or fourteen pieces, turn up the back 
 shell and take all the fat from it, taking it out as though you were 
 skinning anything, put the fat in a stewpan by itself, saw a rim 
 off the back shell six inches deep, cut it in about twelve pieces, put 
 a large stewpan full of water on the fire, when it boils dip in a fin 
 for a minute or two, then peal off the shell, and so continue until you 
 have done it all, head and all ; then put all the pieces of shell into a 
 stewpan, with about eighteen large onions, and a faggot of sweet 
 herbs, allowing more basil than any other herbs, fill it up with water, 
 let it boil a long time ; the next you will cut the fore fins into four 
 pieces, and put them into a stewpan, cover them with water, the hind 
 ones in two each ; cover the stewpan ; let them boil gently until you 
 can take out all the bones, do not mix them, but put them on differ- 
 ent dishes, put the two liquors in one pan. 
 
 Cut up the lean meat for entrees, such as grenadins, collops, frican- 
 deaux, roasting or boiling as chickens, pates, cutlets, or quenelles. Put 
 one pound of butter into a large stewpan, and all the lean next that 
 may be left as useless, cut up three or four fowls, a faggot of turtle 
 herbs, twelve onions, three or four pounds of lean ham, a bottle of 
 Madeira, and a pound of mushrooms, draw it down for one hour, then 
 fill it up with the liquor previously strained from the bones and 
 shells, keep it all boiling gently for several hours, then strain it off, 
 taking care of what lean meat you require for your tureens, put it in> 
 your soup pot to keep hot, with a little of the stock. Have the entrails' 
 cleaned and scalded, then cut them into pieces two inches long, thea 
 put them on to blanch in cold water, wash them out, line a stewpan? 
 with fat bacon, let them stew very gently for about three hours, then. 
 thicken the stock as for mock turtle, and rub it through a tammy,, 
 add egg balls, or hard boiled eggs, cut in half, and forcemeat balls, 
 or quenelles, the green fat to be boiled by itself in good consomme, 
 a little to be added to each tureen of soup. If to be sent up in the 
 shell, put a pretty rim of raised pie paste round the top shell ; add 
 the juice of lemons and a little more wine before you serve it up. 
 Season with sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt. 
 
 E 
 
50 SOUPS OP POULTRY, GAME, ETC. 
 
 56. — MOCK TUBTLE 
 
 Is made much after the same manner. The calf's head being divided, 
 having the skin on, the brains carefully removed and boiled separately 
 in a cloth ; it must be placed jin the saucepan, with more than enough 
 water to cover it, skim while heating, let it be parboiled, and then 
 let it cool, cut the meat from the head in square pieces, the tongue 
 also, then break the bones of the head in pieces, return them into 
 the water in which they have been boiled, add shin of beef, about 
 three or four pounds, knuckle of veal, three or four onions, two small 
 carrots sliced, a turnip also, with black pepper unground, add the 
 brains pounded, and stew gently five hours, strain, cool, and remove 
 the fat ; take a clean stewpan, place in it of fresh butter four ounces; 
 add to it, when fluid, three wooden spoonfuls of flour, stirring it well 
 until it browns, some shalots, or a little of the soup may be added to 
 to this, also parsley, sweet basil, chives, salt, soy, cayenne, and 
 ketchup ; strain before you add it to the soup into which you will 
 return the pieces of meat, and boil it for upwards of an hour, previous 
 to dishing half a pint of sherry or Madeira should be added, a lemon 
 squeezed into the tureen in which it is to be served, and when in the 
 tureen add egg balls, twenty or thirty in number. 
 
 57. MOCK TUBTLE SOUP. 
 
 This soup if well made, gives general satisfaction. Take a calf s 
 head, thoroughly scraped and cleaned, the skin remaining on ; place 
 it in a soup pot, to this add that part of the hand of pickled pork 
 which is free from bones, the fattest end, observing that it is proper 
 to soak it well in water previous to using ; put in sweet herbs, a 
 couple of onions, a head of celery if large, a few truffles and morels, 
 two if small, pounded mace and pepper, add plenty of water, without 
 quite filling the saucepan, boil slowly until the meat has become 
 tender, then remove it, and cut the meat from the bone into square 
 pieces, break the bones and put them again into the soup, let it 
 simmer for four or five hours, then place it where it can quickly 
 cool, remove the fat and strain the soup ; thicken with flour and 
 butter, add three table-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, four or five 
 glasses of sherry or Madeira, and squeeze a whole lemon into it; 
 add the meat of the head and the pork cut into well-shaped pieces, 
 conclude with egg balls, or force-meat, or both, warm it and serve ; 
 it will be found a delicious soup. 
 
 58. MOCK TUBTLE SOUP. 
 
 Blanch half a calf's head sufficiently to draw out the bones, cut 
 off the ear and the tongue, take off the skin of the tongue ? lay all 
 separate until cold, and strain off the liquor, and add it to your veal 
 or second stock ; cut the meat into large square dice, put it into a 
 stewpan with your already prepared stock, and stew it until tender, 
 strain off some of the stock, get another stewpan, cut about one 
 pound of lean York or Westphalia ham, one pound of lean veal, a 
 
FISH SOUPS. 51 
 
 good faggot of basil and knotted-inarjorani, two or three blades of 
 mace, six or seven cloves, two bay-leaves, four onions, the parings of 
 a few mushrooms, half a pound of butter, fry them for some time a 
 nice light brown, dry all up with flour, then add your stock you have 
 previously strained from the cut pieces ; if too thick add more stock, 
 let all boil for some time, keeping it stirred with a wooden spoon; 
 when boiled sufficient, strain it through a tammy or tammy-sieve 
 into the stewpan that has the cut pieces of the head, boil all toge- 
 ther ; season with sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt, juice of lemon, 
 and white wine ; if you wish to preserve the old fashion, by having 
 forcemeat balls, egg, &c, refer for them to the previous receipt; add 
 them to it when they are blanched. I only put hard-boiled eggs, and, 
 if 1 have any, a few quenelles. 
 
 59. rOTAGE A LA EEINE. 
 
 Take three or four roast chickens, cut off all the meat, and pound 
 it well with two table-spoonfuls of rice, previously boiled in water 
 for a quarter of an hour. Dilute it with some good consomme, and 
 strain it ; then add sufficient quantity of consomme to the puree to 
 make it of the requisite consistence, put the bones of the chickens 
 into the above, and let it simmer over a small fire for two hours, 
 about a quarter of an hour before dinner time ; pour some of it over 
 the bread to soak it as usual; just before serving strain the whole 
 through a fine sieve. 
 
 60. A FLAVOURING TO MAKE SOUP TASTE LIKE TURTLE. 
 
 Pour one ounce and a half of shalot wine into the same quantity 
 of essence of anchovies, add a quarter of a pound of basil wine, half 
 that quantity of mushroom ketchup, stir in about half a tea spoonful 
 of curry powder, add half an ounce of thin lemon peel, and half a 
 drachm of citric acid, let it remain for a week. It will be found, 
 when added to soup, to give the flavour of turtle. 
 
 FISH SOUPS. 
 
 61. — STOCK FOR WHITE OR BROWN FISH SOUP. 
 
 It must be understood that this stock will not keep long, three 
 days being the utmost. Take two pounds and a half of English eels, 
 silver eels as they are termed, they may be known from the Dutch 
 by the white silvery appearance of the belly; cut them in pieces 
 about an inch and a half or two inches long, cut up six fresh flounders 
 and a pound and a half of skate. Place them in the pan with 
 sufficient water to cover them, add two heads of celery, three parsley 
 roots .cut in slices, an onion, and sweet herbs ; season with pepper, 
 salt, and mace. The onion should be stuck with cloves, and a little 
 of the liquor from any potted fish will improve the flavour, but must 
 
 E 2 
 
52 PISH SOUPS. 
 
 not be added until just previous to serving; cover close down and 
 simmer one hour and three quarters, strain off for use. 
 
 The only difference between this and brown soup is that the fish 
 must be first fried brown in butter. 
 
 , Fish soups may be most numerous ; there is scarcely a fish which 
 may not be used for this purpose, the most available and. easiest 
 made are those which are composed of the cheaper kinds of fish. 
 
 62. — CEAY FISH SOUP. 
 
 To three quarts of good white stock, add fifty cray fish, having 
 first picked off the tails, the meat from the head and shells, and 
 beat to a paste in a mortar, it will become of the consistency of 
 cream ; boil it fifteen minutes, rub it through a tammy, or coarse 
 cloth, season with salt and cayenne pepper: the colour may be 
 heightened by lobster spawn, beat up with the meat of the cray fish, 
 or the juice of beet-root. 
 
 63. — eel soup. 
 
 Take any number of pounds of eels according to the quantity 
 required ; add two thirds water. If about three or four pounds of 
 eels add one onion, a small quantity of mace, a little pepper whole, 
 sweet herbs, a crust of the top side of bread, cover down close; stew 
 till the fish separates, strain. Toast slices of bread deep brown but 
 not to burn, cut into triangular pieces or squares, a piece of carrot 
 two inches long cut into four slices lengthways, put into a tureen with 
 the toast, pour the soup on, boiling cream may be added thickened 
 with a little flour, but it should be rich enough without it. 
 
 64. — PISH SOUP MAGNIFIQUE. 
 
 Make stock of skate, flounders, and eels; cut some handsome 
 cutlets from a turbot, salmon, or cod ; lay them aside. Make a 
 marinade composed of three turnips, the like number of carrots, two 
 onions, and half a clove of garlic, the flavour of the last is alone 
 desired; the quantity, therefore, may, be just sufficient to communi- 
 cate it, and no more : and then, according to the quantity of fish 
 proposed to be cooked, add water, and one third wine, squeezing into 
 it the juice of half a lemon. Stew this together for fifteen minutes, 
 strain it, and let it get cold; then add the cutlets, simmer until, the 
 liquor is one third reduced, pour in the stock first made, thicken it 
 with cream, season with a little cayenne and salt; serve up the 
 cutlets in the dish with the soup. 
 
 65. — HADDOCK SOUP. 
 
 Pound in a mortar with a pint of picked shrimps, the meat of a 
 haddock, chop a handful of parsley very fine, and add the whole of 
 the crumb of a French roll which has been steeped in cream ; add 
 
FISH SOUPS. 53 
 
 one egg, and mix well together; make it into balls ; stew down into 
 broth two haddocks, seasoned with cayenne and a little mace; pulp 
 through a sieve the meat of the two haddocks, boil up with parsley, 
 thicken, with flour and butter, and serve with the forcemeat balls 
 in it. ' 
 
 66. LOBSTER SOUP. 
 
 Extract the meat from the shells of four hen lobsters, which have 
 been boiled : put the spawn aside, beat the fins and small claws in a 
 mortar ; then place both in a saucepan, with two quarts of water, 
 until the whole goodness of the fish has been drawn ; then strain the 
 liquor. Beat in a mortar the spawn, a lump of flour and butter ; rub 
 it through a sieve into the soup previously strained ; simmer without 
 boiling, that the colour may be preserved, ten minutes ; squeeze in 
 the piece of a lemon, with a little of the essence of anchovies. 
 
 When this dish is sent to table as a feature, forcemeat balls are 
 served with it ; they are made of minced lobster, spawn, crumb of 
 French roll, egg, and mace pounded ; roll it in flour, and serve in 
 the soup. 
 
 67. — PUREE OF LOBSTEK SOUP. 
 
 Get two large hen lobsters, take out all the meat, chop and pound 
 it fine, six anchovies boned, put the shells in some second stock to 
 boil for some time, strain off the liquor into your pounded lobsters, 
 boil all until tender, rub all through a tammy,' add one pint of cream; 
 season with cayenne pepper, a little sugar, and salt, and lemon- 
 juice. 
 
 68. — MUSSEL SOUP. 
 
 Put two quarts of mussels into a saucepan, boil them until they 
 open, take the mussel from the shells, separate the sea-weed from 
 them carefully, put them into a stewpan, with a lump of flour and 
 butter, a handful of parsley, and sweet herbs, add three pints of rich 
 gravy; simmer until reduced to a little more than half; serve hot 
 with sippets. 
 
 69. — OYSTER SOUP. 
 
 Beard four dozen oysters, preserve the liquor in opening them, 
 which must be placed with the beards of the oysters in a stewpan, 
 slice skate or sole or any other fish, small fresh water fish will serve 
 excellently well, and adding them, stew for five or six hours ; strain 
 and thicken it, add two spoonfuls of soy or any fish sauce, or omit it, 
 to taste. Add the oysters, and when they are warm through, serve. 
 
 70. — OYSTER SOUP. 
 
 Get four flounders, or similar portions of any fish, four dozen of 
 large oysters, blanch them slightly, take off the beards and gristle, 
 
54 VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 put the beards and fish into some of your best white stock, boil all 
 together for several hours, add four anchovies washed, strain all off and 
 thicken it with flour and butter, add one pint of cream, put in your 
 oysters you had taken care of the last thing, just boiling them up in 
 the soup ; having passed it through a tammy, season it with cayenne 
 pepper, salt, and a small piece of sugar. 
 
 71. — SKATE SOHP. 
 
 This is made of stock as just described, save that the proportion 
 of skate should be increased. Add an ounce of vermicelli to the 
 soup which must be boiled for an hour. A Vben ready to serve, beat 
 up the yolks of a couple of eggs in half a pint of cream, add it to 
 the soup ; heat a French roll through, soak it in the soup when the 
 vermicelli is added, and serve with it. 
 
 72. — BEorar, fish. 
 
 Set water over the fire in a kettle, according to the quantity of 
 broth to be made, put in the roots of parsley, parsnip, and whole 
 onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a bunch of parsley, sorrel, and 
 butter; let the whole be well seasoned; then put in the bones and 
 carcases of the fish, the flesh of which you have used for farces, also 
 the tripes, the tails of cray-fish pounded in a mortar, and four or five 
 spoonfuls of the juice of onions ; let these be well seasoned and 
 boiled, then strained through a sieve, put it back into the kettle, and 
 keep it hot to simmer your soups and boil your fish. 
 
 73. — QUENELLE SOUPS OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 The quenelles must be added after being boiled, at the last, to your 
 soup. 
 
 74 MILK SOUP. 
 
 Pttt into a quart of milk two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, two 
 bay leaves, and a little cinnamon; boil it, pour it into a dish in which 
 you have previously laid some sippets of toasted bread : simmer over 
 a charcoal fire when the bread is soft ; mix the yolks of two eggs 
 well beaten with a little milk ; put it in the soup, mix well all together, 
 and serve up. 
 
 VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 75. VEGETABLE SOUP. • 
 
 There are numerous methods of making this soup, the variations 
 depending upon the omission or addition, of certain vegetables, and 
 in the mode of serving the soup with them or without them. The 
 following is as simple and as palatable as any. 
 
VEGETABLE SOUPS. 55 
 
 Collect whatever vegetables are in season, take equal quantities, 
 turnips, carrots, cabbage, spinach, celery, parsley, onion, a li,ttle 
 mint, &c, add plenty of herbs, cut them fine, put them into the 
 stewpan, in which has previously been placed some oil ; stew gently 
 until the vegetables become tender, then add two quarts of boiling 
 water; stew a quarter of an hour and serve. 
 
 Some cooks advocate the introduction of peas, green or white, to 
 this soup : where they are used, they must be boiled until tender in 
 very little water, then mashed into a very loose paste; the vegetables 
 having been scalded are then added, and two hours will suffice for 
 stewing, season it with salt and pepper. 
 
 Be careful that it does not burn while cooking, or the whole is 
 spoiled. 
 
 76. ABTICHOKE (CALLED PALESTINE) SOUP. 
 
 About six pounds of Jerusalem artichokes, pared and cut into 
 small pieces, three turnips, a head of white celery, put sufficient good 
 white stock to cover the artichokes, let it boil until quite tender, then 
 rub all through a tammy; if too thick, thin it with good sweet milk; 
 boil all together, add half a pint of cream, season with sugar, salt, 
 and cayenne pepper. 
 
 Send upon a napkin some nice fried bread, cut in small dice, hot. 
 
 77. ASPABAGUS SOUP WITH GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Make a soup of roots, and when strained, boil a pint of green peas 
 in the liquor. Choose some middling sized asparagus, cut them in 
 pieces about three inches long, blanch them in boiling water, and 
 then throw them into cold water ; drain them and tie them in small 
 bunches, split the tops and boil them with the peas. When done, 
 make a puree of them and mix it with the root soup, and garnish 
 with the asparagus. Good meat broth may be used instead of the 
 root soup. 
 
 78.— SOUP de l'aspeege. 
 Cut into thin slices half a pound of bacon, lay them in the bottom 
 of a stewpan, cut into lumps six pounds of lean beef and roll it well 
 in flour, cover the pan close, shake occasionally until the gravy is all 
 drawn, then add half a pint of old ale and two quarts of water, throw 
 in some whole peppers and a spoonful of salt, stew gently for an hour, 
 skim the fat, and when an hour has elapsed strain off the soup, then 
 put in it some spinach, two cabbage lettuces, the leaves of white 
 beet, a little mint, powdered sweet aroma and sorrel, boil them, 
 then put in the tops of asparagus cut small, when they are tender the 
 soup is done, serve up hot with a French roll in the middle. 
 
 79. — ASPABAGUS SOUP (CLEAR). 
 
 Blanch two hundred tops of asparagus and boil them in a good 
 gravy, serve with sippets of bread just hardened by the fire. 
 
56 VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 80. CABBAGE SOUP. 
 
 r Cut your cabbage into four parts, tben let them be partly boiled, 
 squeeze them dry and place them in a large brass pan or dish, so'that 
 there may be room betwixt each piece of cabbage to take up soup 
 with a large spoon, then let them boil with as much gravy or stock 
 as will cover them ; let them stew for two hours before dinner,' then 
 put a quarter of a pound of butter and a handful of flour into a 
 saucepan, set it over a fire and, keeping it stirred, add two onions 
 minced and stir it again, then add a quart of veal gravy, boil it a 
 little and pour it all over the cabbage. If you choose you may force 
 pigeons with good force-meat made of veal ; fry them, and then stew 
 them with the cabbage,' putting in with them a little bacon stuck 
 with cloves, when it has stewed away take off the fat, soak bread in 
 your dish with gravy or stock, place your fowl in the middle and the 
 cabbage all round, garnish the dish with slices of bacon and a little 
 cabbage between each slice. 
 
 81. CABBAGE SOUP. 
 
 Take four or six pounds of beef, boil with it some black pepper 
 whole for three hours, cut three or four cabbages in quarters, boil 
 them until they are quite tender, turn them into a dish, and serve 
 all together. 
 
 82. — CARROT SOUP. 
 Take a proportionate number of carrots to the quantity of soup to 
 be made, if a small quantity six will suffice ; they should be large 
 and of a rich colour, cut them after being thoroughly scraped ' into 
 thin slices, stew them in some rich stock, say two quarts, until they 
 are tender through, then force them through a sieve or tammy 
 with a wooden spoon until a red pulp is deposited, re-boil it with the 
 stock until it is rich and thick, season with grated white sugar, 
 cayenne pepper, and salt. 
 
 83. SOUP A LA CEECI, OR CARROT SOUP. 
 
 Cut half a pound of lean ham in dice, three onions,' four turnips, 
 twelve carrots, the outer side red only, a head of celery, a faggot of 
 sweet herbs, two blades of mace, six cloves, a bay leaf, and half a 
 pound of salt butter; fry all well down in a stew-pan until they get a 
 little brown, then add some second stock, and stew until all the roots 
 are quite tender, then rub it through a tammy sieve or tammy cloth 
 with two long spoons; if very thick, add more stock. Season with 
 cayenne and black pepper, and salt, and a good bit of sugar; send 
 up on a napkin some nice fried bread cut in small dice, and not 
 greasy. 
 
 84. — soup CRECI. 
 Cut four onions in slices, grate the same number of carrots, cut-up 
 
VEGETABLE SOUPS. 57 
 
 ■three lettuces, to which may be added a little chervil ; lay them in a 
 stewpan, add a piece of butter, a pint of lintels, and last of all one 
 pint of broth, simmer for half an hour, fill up with good white stock, 
 in which a little rice has been boiled, boil for an hour, take the 
 crumbs of two French rolls, soak them in the stock, rub the whole 
 through a tammy with wooden spoons, serve in a soup tureen when 
 about the thickness of pea soup. 
 
 85. CELERY SOUP. 
 
 Stew fine white celery cut in small slips in gravy, then boil it in 
 good gravy. 
 
 Sb. HEEB SOUP. 
 
 Slice three large but young cucumbers, a handful of spring onions, 
 and six lettuces, cut the last small. Put into a stewpan eight ounces 
 of butter, and with it the above vegetables ; when the butter has 
 melted, cover, and let it stand over a slow fire an hour and twenty 
 minutes. Add as much stock as may be required for the quantity of 
 soup intended to be served, let it be boiling and simmer for an hour, 
 thicken with flour and butter, or three table spoonfuls of cream. If 
 required to be coloured use spinach juice. 
 
 ■ 87. — HOTCH POTCH. 
 
 Put a pint of peas into a quart of water, boil them until they are 
 so tender as easily to be pulped through a sieve. Take of the leanest 
 end of a loin of mutton three pounds, cut it into chops, put it into a 
 saucepan with a gallon of water, four carrots, four turnips cut in small 
 .pieces, season with pepper and salt. Boil until all the vegetables are 
 quite tender, put in the pulped peas a head of celery and an onion 
 sliced, boil fifteen minutes, and serve. 
 
 88. — ITALIENNE. 
 
 Put into a saucepan a spoonful of shred parsley, half a spoonful 
 of shalots, the same of mushroom ; shred fine half a bottle of white 
 wine, and an ounce of butter ; boil this till no moisture remains, 
 then put two ladlefuls of veloute, and one of consomme, set to boil, 
 take care to skim off all the fat ; when you find it about the consistence 
 of clear broth, take it from the fire, put it into another vessel, and 
 keep it hot, as in bain marie. 
 
 89. SOUP A L ITALIENNE. 
 
 Cut celery, onions, turnips, carrots, leeks, in long shreds, boil them 
 until they, are tender, put them into some clear gravy soup, with 
 brown thickening, boil it, and when enough, put in sippets of lightly 
 toasted bread, a glass of port wine ; toast a French roll whole, and 
 serve it up in the middle of the tureen. 
 
58 VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 In the season may be added French beans* sorrel, button onions, 
 asparagus tops, and green peas. 
 
 90. SOUP JULLIENNE. 
 
 Is similar to saute, only add spinach and lettuce, or any vegetable 
 that may be in season. 
 
 91. — SCOTCH LEEK SOUP. 
 
 Take a dozen leeks, simmer them in two quarts of the liquor in 
 ■which a leg of mutton has been boiled. Mix one tea-spoonful of 
 oatmeal in cold water until it is very smooth, thicken the soup with 
 it, season and serve. 
 
 92. — onion soup. 
 In two quarts of weak mutton broth slice two turnips and as many 
 carrots, strain it. Fry six onions cut in slices, when nicely browned 
 add them to the broth ; simmer three hours ; skim and serve. 
 
 93. SOUP OF SPANISH ONIONS. 
 
 Put in a stewpan with four Spanish onions, four ounces of butter, 
 a head of celery, a large turnip, a quart of white gravy, and stew until 
 the onions are quite tender, add another quart of gravy and strain. 
 Pulp the vegetables, return them to the soup, boil for half an hour. 
 Keep constantly stirring, immediately previous to serving thicken 
 with rice flour worked in butter. 
 
 94. — PEA SOUP. 
 
 Boil to a pulp two quarts of peas, strain them, place in a stewpan 
 four ounces of butter, add two anchovies, a table-spoonful of pounded 
 pepper, twice that quantity of salt, a small handful of parsley and 
 mint, a little beet-root and spinach, stew until tender. Add pulped 
 peas until the soup is of the required consistency, throw in a spoonful 
 »f loaf sugar, boil up and serve. 
 
 95. ANOTHER WAT. 
 
 Wash in clean water, cold, a quart of split peas, drain them, tie 
 them up in a white cloth, boil them half an hour in soft water sufficient 
 to cover them, then take them out, and having placed them in a sauce- 
 pan with three quarts of water in which salt meat has been boiled, if too 
 salt moderate it with fresh water, but do not let it exceed three quarts, 
 then put in the following roots, two whole onions, a head of celery 
 cut in small pieces, a sprig of sweet herbs, and a carrot. Simmer 
 gently until the peas are very tender, stir it occasionally to prevent 
 burning. When the peas are sufficiently soft, pulp them through a 
 seive, mix them with the soup, and season with black pepper. Toast 
 bread, cut it into squares, and serve with the soup, as well as a dish 
 of dried pounded mint. 
 
VEGETABLE SOUPS. 59 
 
 The stock for this soup may be made of the bones of any salted 
 meat. A ham bone boiled with the soup is very serviceable if the 
 liquor of salt meat is not to be had. 
 
 96. — GEEEN PEA SOUP. 
 
 Cut down in thin pieces two heads of celery, a good piece of mint, 
 two carrots, two turnips, twelve green onions, a little parsley, and 
 two quarts of peas, two lettuces, a handful of spinach, sweat all 
 down with two quarts of good second stock, let stew until tender, 
 then rub all through a tammy ; have a few young peas, boiled green, 
 strained off and put in your tureen ; if not a good green, add some 
 green colouring from spinach juice to it the last thing before 
 serving up ; season with a good bit of sugar, salt, and pepper. 
 
 Send up fried bread cut in dice, as before. 
 
 97. — GREEN PEA SOUP. 
 
 Cut up three Cos lettuces, pare and slice three cucumbers, add a 
 pint of young peas, a sprig of mint, an onion, and a little parsley ; 
 put all together in a saucepan, add four ounces of fresh butter, stew 
 for half an hour, pour on them a quart of thin gravy, stew two hours, 
 thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 98. DRIED GREEN PEA SOUP. 
 
 Put three pints of split green peas in some soft water with a piece 
 of butter the size of a walnut, simmer until they are soft enough to 
 pulp through a colander, then add boiling water to make the soup, 
 put in a lettuce, and colour with spinach juice. Keep it simmering 
 until it is ready for use, thicken it with butter and flour, season with 
 pepper and salt and one tea-spoonful of sugar. 
 
 Take out the lettuce before sending to table, and send up some 
 young green peas in its place. They must be boiled until tender 
 before putting in the soup, and should be added only just before 
 serving. 
 
 99. — CLEAR PEA SOUP. 
 
 Boil in two quarts of gravy a quart of young peas, add a lettuce cut 
 fine, and a small sprig of mint. 
 
 100. — PEPPER POT. 
 
 Put in a stewpan three quarts of water, to this add celery, turnips, 
 carrots, lettuces, cut small, add the bones of cold roast meat of any 
 description, half a pound of bacon, the same weight of salted pork ; 
 stew gently until the meat is tender, taking care to skim when it first 
 boils. 
 
 Boil half a peck of spinach and rub it through a colander, take 
 the bones out of the soup and add the spinach, with it the meat of a 
 
60 VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 lobster or crab minced, season with plenty of cayenne pepper, and 
 salt to taste. 
 
 Suet dumplings may be boiled with it, or a fowl, but this is matter 
 of taste. Mutton or beef may be substituted for bacon or pork, this 
 will be obvious when it is understood that a pepper pot is presumed 
 to consist of an equal proportion of flesh, fish, fowl, and vegetables. , 
 
 101. — POTATO SOUP. 
 
 Put into a stewpan three pints of white stock, take six large 
 potatoes, boil them until they are nearly done, they must be mealy, 
 cut them in slices until they are sufficiently tender to pulp through a 
 sieve, with an onion boiled soft enough for the same purpose. Thicken 
 with flour and butter, season with white pepper, cayenne, and salt. 
 To add to the flavour cream should be added, half a tea-cupful 
 previous to serving, but must not be permitted to boil after adding. 
 
 102. — EICE soup. 
 Steep some fine rice in cold water for an hour, say four ounces, 
 then boil it, add three quarts of gravy, add a pinch of cayenne, a 
 little salt, and boil five minutes. 
 
 103. — SAUTE SOUP. 
 Cut carrots, and turnips, and onions, and celery, as straws, about 
 one inch long, quite thin ; the carrots you will trim, using only the 
 red part, the yellow that is left use for your stock pot ; cut your 
 onions in quarters, then cut them the size endways, blanch them for 
 two or three minutes, strain them on the back of a hair sieve to drain, 
 then add them to the quantity of soup required, allowing half a pint 
 to each person; therefore, as you must so reduce it to have the flavour 
 of your vegetables, allow a pint more, reducing it to the quantity you 
 require ; season it with lump sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt ; be 
 sure and not go to the extreme. 
 
 104. — SOUP MAIZE. 
 Melt half a pound of butter in a stewpan, add four heads of celery, 
 the outside stalks, if well cleaned, will be of service ; slice five onions 
 and throw in with twenty or thirty sprigs of spinach, cut up four 
 turnips, and add sweet herbs and parsley ; simmer for three quarters 
 of an hour, pour in five pints of water, stew for half an hour, serve 
 with sippets of toasted bread. 
 
 105. — SPEING SOUP. 
 
 As saute ; the same roots cut differently, and add, if to be had, 
 spinach, cabbage-lettuce, a very little sorrel, as it turns acid on the 
 stomach, all cut rather small, tarragon, chervil, green asparagus, 
 young peas, cucumbers; cut the asparagus about one inch long, cut 
 the tarragon and chervil a little, and a few Trench beans cut, use 
 
VEGETABLE SOUPS. 61 
 
 your consomme^ stock as before, boiling all your green parts particularly 
 green in water a few minutes, leaving them to be sufficiently done in 
 your stock ; if you have a cauliflower boiled, pick a few small pieces 
 and put in the soup-tureen ; the boiling soup when poured in will 
 make it hot ; season as before. 
 
 106. — spring soup 
 
 Is made as No. 89, with the addition of lettuce and chervil, and 
 instead of cutting the vegetables in shreds cut them in dice. 
 
 107.— SOTJP SOEBEL. A SUMMEE SODP. 
 
 Take a good quantity of sorrel, and mix with it the top leaves of 
 beet-root; boil them thoroughly, press' them enough to extract all the 
 water, and chop them until they are almost a paste ; when they are 
 quite cold, add the coldest spring water attainable, and mix until 
 rather thicker than cream ; cut in thin slices two cucumbers steeped 
 in a mixture of vinegar and a little cayenne ; boil three eggs hard, 
 and cut them in very small pieces : now, having chopped the green 
 ends of young onions small, and added to the paste, pour over cream 
 to your taste, and then add the sliced cucumber and boiled egg ; serve 
 up garnished with clean white pieces of ice. 
 
 108. TOMATA SOUP. 
 
 Slice two onions and fry them in butter until brown, remove them 
 and fry two dozen tomatoes just sufficient to heat them through, then 
 put them into a stewpan with their gravy and the onions, add a head of 
 celery and a carrot sliced, stew gently for half an hour, add three pints 
 of gravy, stew an hour and a half, pulp the whole of the vegetables 
 through a sieve, season with white pepper, salt, and cayenne, serve 
 with sippets of toasted bread cut in shapes. 
 
 109. — TUENIP soup. 
 
 This soup should be made the day before required. Stew a 
 knuckle of veal with an onion, sweet herbs, and a little mace, in six 
 quarts of water ; cover down close and stew gently five or six hours, 
 let it be put in a cool place. Before warming remove the fat and 
 sediment, slice six turnips into small pieces, stew them in the gravy 
 until tender, add half a pint of cream, flour, and butter, season with 
 white pepper. 
 
 110. — PUREE OF TURNIP SOUP. 
 
 , Get a bunch of turnips, pare them and cut them in thin slices, one 
 head of white celery, one onion, fill up your stewpan with good second 
 white stock, boil them until quite tender, then pass it all through a 
 tammy by rubbing it with wooden spoons, or a tammy sieve, season 
 with sugar, cayenne, and salt. Send up fried bread, as for former 
 60ups ; add half a pint of cream the last thing. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 MEATS. 
 
 ^bCX 
 
 OBSEETATIONS ON MEATS. 
 
 How to choose, and the best parts to choose of meats, are given 
 under their appropriate heads; weTnll come at once, therefore, to the 
 process of cooking when they have been, chosen. 
 
 If the meat has to be roasted, a clear fire is indispensable ; and 
 the fire should also be maintained at one uniform heat by the addi- 
 tion of coal, only in small quantities. If the joint is large, it should 
 be commenced as far from the fire as the apparatus will permit, and 
 as it progresses gradually be moved nearer the fire until done, this mil 
 ensure, in large and thick joints, the heart of the meat being properly 
 done, while it prevents the outer parts from being cooked to a chip. 
 A small, joint should have a brisk fire, should be well basted, as 
 also larger joints ; it should be sprinkled with salt, and dredged with 
 flour when three parts cooked, but it should be remembered that this 
 must not be left until the meat is just cooked, for the fire is apt to 
 catch the flour, and give it a most disagreeable flavour. 
 
 There are a variety of opinions respecting the washing of meat 
 
MEATS. 63 
 
 previous to roasting. Many old and experienced cooks declare 
 that it destroys the flavour of meat. Professors of the art, however, 
 hold a contrary opinion. I am not disposed, from my experience to 
 differ so essentially from them as to advise meat to be roasted with- 
 out this operation, but should advise that the meat be not suffered 
 to remain too long in the water, unless frost-bitten, and then it should 
 soak an hour or two previous to cooking. 
 
 The time necessary for cooking a joint must depend, of course, 
 upon the weight of the joint to be roasted ; experience gives not 
 less than fifteen minutes to each pound of meat ; where the quantity 
 is very large an extra two or three minutes must be given, but so 
 much depends upon the state of the fire, and the attention directed 
 to the joint while cooking, that the judgment must be exercised ; 
 although the above calculation may be taken as a general rule, giving 
 time for any drawback which may occur. 
 
 In boiling meat, as much attention must be paid as in any other 
 process ; if the joint be permitted to boil too rapidly, the cook may 
 be satisfied the meat will go to table as hard as it could be wished to 
 be tender; if while cooking it should be allowed to stop boiling, it 
 ■will prove underdone when cut, even though more than the usual 
 time be allowed for it to be cooked. The meat generally is better 
 for being soaked a short time, and then wrapping it in a cloth well 
 floured, if fresh ; if salt, the water should be kept free from scum as 
 fast as it appears. All joints to be boiled should be put into cold 
 water and heated gradually, and nothing boiled with it save a dump- 
 ling, or if beef, carrots or parsnips. 
 
 ROAST MEATS. 
 
 In every case where meat is washed before roasting, it should be 
 well dried before it is put down to the fire, which must be kept clear, 
 banked up to the height it is intended to keep it, and kept at that 
 height until the meat is sufficiently cooked ; remember the regula- 
 tion of gradually advancing the meat nearer to the fire while it is 
 cooking, baste with a little milk and water, or salt and water first, but 
 as soon as the fat begins to fall from the meat, put down a clean dish 
 and then baste with the dripping as it falls ; the meat should not be 
 sprinkled with salt until nearly cooked, or too much gravy will be 
 produced. Preserve the dripping ; pour it from the dish into some 
 boiling water, leave it to cool. When cold it will be hard, white, and 
 all the impurities will be deposited at the bottom. It occasionally 
 happens that the joint cannot be sent to table as soon as cooked ; in 
 such case place it on a dish upon a fish kettle of boiling water ; place 
 over it a dish cover, and spread over all a cloth ; the meat will thus 
 be kept as hot as if placed before a fire, but will not be dried, nor 
 will the gravy be evaporated. 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 The learned in the art of boiling recommend different times for 
 the completion of the process, some allowing fifteen minutes to each 
 
64 MEATS. 
 
 pound, others twenty. All the best authorities agree in this, that 
 the longer the boiling the more perfect the operation. 
 
 When taken from the pot the meat must be wiped ; some use a 
 clean cloth, but the best way is to have a sponge previously dipped 
 in warm water, and wrung dry ; this is also more convenient. Be 
 careful not to let the meat stand, but send it to table as quick aa 
 possible, or it will darken and become hard. Boiled meat,, as well 
 as roast, cannot be served too hot. 
 
 The operation of boiling is generally treated as a department that 
 requires no art at all. Hence it is that a leg of mutton is called 
 spoiled when boiled, which is to be traced to the bad management of 
 the pot. 
 
 Hard water is improper to boil meat in, and where soft water is 
 to be procured, should not be thought of ; as a cook cannot do justice 
 to her skill, if she is ever so attentive. 
 
 It is now an established fact among the best judges that the meat 
 should be put in cold water, and not in hot, unless for a special 
 purpose, as that renders it dark and hard ; cooks should be careful 
 how they manage the form of certain meat for the pot, by skewering 
 or tying it, so as to make it equal in all parts ; for where one part 
 is thick, and the other thin, the latter would be overdone before the 
 thicker parts are acted upon by the boiling water. All meats are 
 best cooked by boiling gently, as fast boiling spoils the meat and 
 does it no quicker. Salted meats should most particularly be slowly 
 boiled — in fact it should scarcely simmer; it is indispensable that 
 the water should cover the meat, consequently the dimensions of the 
 pot should be suited to the bulk of the joint. 
 
 Large joints, as rumps and rounds of beef, should be boiled in a 
 copper. It is less difficult to regulate the heat of a copper fire than 
 that of a kitchen range. Meat, before boiling or roasting, should be 
 washed, as all meat is improved in colour by soaking. For roasting,' 
 it should be wiped before it is put in the oven or on the spit ; it is 
 impossible to boil properly without skimming the pot. The instant 
 the pot boils, it should be skimmed and followed up as the scum 
 rises. 
 
 It will be seen that the above remarks apply to those who have 
 not been able to avail themselves of the many advantages the 
 numerous improvements in cooking apparatus present. 
 
 BKOILINO. 
 
 The cook must prepare her fire in due time. When ready, it 
 should be clear and bright, so clear from black coal and smoke that 
 the chop or steak may come from the gridiron without blemish or taint 
 of sulphur or smoke. The best fuel for a broil is composed of charcoal 
 and coke, as little smoke is emitted from either, even on commencing 
 the fire, and when well ignited, it is entirely free from it; coke added to 
 a brisk coal fire, also burns bright, and is well suited for the operation, 
 though with care a proper fire may be made of good sea coal. There is 
 this amongst other disadvantages, in cutting too thick a steak, the out- 
 
BEEF. 65 
 
 side is likely to be scorched to horny hardness before the interior is 
 half cooked ; hence, to say nothing of the misery of those who have 
 not large mouths, the disappointed epicure must either wait until it is 
 put again on the gridiron, or instead of eating it rare, be constrained 
 to eat it raw. No gridiron should be.used but those with fluted bars, 
 which, forming channels, the greater part of the fat which otherwise 
 falls into the fire, and scorches the steak, is drawn off into a gutter 
 at the bottom, the gridiron should be thoroughly heated, and the 
 bars rubbed with beef or mutton suet previously to putting on the 
 steak, to prevent its being marked by, or adhering to, the bars. A 
 close eye should be kept on the steak to watch the moment for 
 turning it, which is repeatedly done during the process; broiling 
 tongs of convenient size should be used, with which, by a little prac- 
 tice, the steak may be turned with ease and despatch; the cook 
 must have her dish thoroughly heated to receive the broil when done, 
 and the cover hot to place upon it instantly. Even when she has 
 accomplished her task, if the servant who is to take it to table loiters 
 on the way, the steak will have lost its zest. A steak or chop 
 should be briskly cooked, speedily conveyed to table, and served with 
 despatch. 
 
 111. BOAST BEEF. 
 
 There exists a variety of tastes and opinions respecting the most 
 profitable, as well as the choicest, parts of beef, but many of them 
 are choice and profitable too if cooked with skill ; the primest parts 
 are roasted, except the round, which should be boiled; the ribs make 
 the finest roasting joint. 
 
 Where a small quantity is required, it is better for the bones to be 
 cut put and the meat rolled; this should be done by the butcher, who 
 will not only cut cleaner, but skewer the parts into a fillet with 
 more firmness and neatness than the cook, who is not expected to be 
 as expert with the knife and skewer as the butcher. The tops of the 
 ribs are frequently cut off into pieces of three or four pounds ; this 
 piece, though occasionally roasted, should be salted ; it is then not 
 unlike in flavour to the brisket. 
 
 In roasting the ribs, or any piece of beef, the precautions men- 
 tioned respecting placing it too near the fire must be observed, and 
 where there is much fat, and it is desired to preserve it from being 
 cooked before the lean, it may be covered with clean white paper 
 skewered over it; when it is nearly done the paper should be removed, 
 a little flour dredged over it, and a rich frothy appearance will be 
 obtained. The joint should be served up with potatoes and other 
 vegetables ; the dish should be garnished round the edge with horse- 
 radish scraped into thin curls. This receipt will suffice for all the 
 other roasting parts of beef. 
 
 112. TO COLLAR BEEF. 
 
 .Choose the thinnest end of the flank of beef, it must not be too fat 
 or too lean, the weight will be from eight to ten pounds, let it hang 
 
66 BEEF. 
 
 in a cool place twenty-four hours, when the skin appears moist, rub 
 
 in some coarse brown sugar, and in fortyveight hours afterwards you 
 
 ■ may place it in a pan in which there is a brine, made of three quarters 
 
 iof a pound of salt and an ounce and a half extract of saltpetre, rub it 
 
 .•well with the brine for a week, take out the bones, the gristle, and 
 
 the inner skin. 
 
 -.!■■ Make a seasoning of sweet herbs, parsley, sage, pepper, ground 
 fiSpice, and salt, cover the beef well with it, roll it in a cloth, and tie 
 firmly and securely with broad tape ; boil it six hours, but boil 
 'gently, take it out, and while hot, and without disturbing the fasten- 
 ings, place upon it a weight, that when cold and unrolled it may 
 ■;. retain its shape. 
 
 118 TO COOK THE INSIDE OF A SIRLOIN. 
 
 Take out the inside of the sirloin in one piece, put it into a stew- 
 ■ pan, and sufficient good gravy to cover it, season with mixed spice, 
 ■pepper, salt, and cayenne, and a spoonful of walnut ketchup : more of 
 ; the latter may be added, if the quantity made should require it to 
 ; flavour ; : - serve with pickled gherkins cut small. 
 
 114. ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Cut the inside of the sirloin into pieces, dredge it with flour,, put 
 it into a frying-pan in which some butter is boiling; when it is 
 ^browned, put it into- a stewpan with some brown gravy, highly 
 : seasoned, squeeze in half a lemon, and serve. 
 
 115, — ANOTHER WAT. 
 
 , Cut it in strips, as for collops, flatten it, flour, and fry in butter, 
 Jay in the centre of a hot dish a mound of spinach, with poached 
 eggs on the top, lay the beef round the spinach. 
 
 1 1 6. — FILLET OF BEEF BOASTED. 
 
 If unaccustomed to the use of the knife, the butcher's aid may 
 
 be obtained to cut the fillet which comes from the inside of the sir- 
 loin, it maybe larded or roasted plain; for high dinners it is larded; 
 
 baste with fresh butter. It must be a large fillet which takes longier 
 ;" than an hour and twenty minutes ; serve with tomato sauce, garnish 
 
 with horse radish, unless served with currant jelly, then serve as 
 
 'with venison or hare. 
 
 1 1 7. — FILLET OF BEEF. 
 
 Take ribs of beef, hang as many days as ribs, bone it, roll it, 
 sprinkle well with salt after boning, and roast it. 
 
 118. FILLET OF BEEF A LA MARINADE. 
 
 Take the under side of a sirloin of beef, keep the fat on one side, 
 trim it and lard it, and lay it into a deep and long dish ; cut in 
 
BEE?- 07 
 
 thin slices carrots, turnips, onions, and celery, a sprig or two of 
 parsley and sweet herbs, a few blades of mace, cloves, and whole 
 pepper, two tea-cupfuls of vffi«gar r and one of cold water, and one of 
 port wine, let it lie a day or two, basting it frequently with the 
 liquor on the top; then braise it as you would the former over a slow 
 fire, and a little on the cover ; stew until tender. 
 
 119. FILLET, OR ROUND OF BEEF SPICED. 
 
 Get the ribs of beef.. Have. ready pounded aad sifted, some cloves, 
 mace, allspice, pepper, a few eoriander seeds, a little saltpetre, and 
 bay salt ; mix all well together, rab your beef well, then tie it tightly 
 up into a good round fillet ;.tet it lie for a day or two, them put it into 
 the oven to set the meat, then place it in a stewpan with a little 
 second stock ; put fat bacon at the bottom of the stewpan, and half A 
 pint of port wine, stew it about two hours according to tbe size, make 
 a very good sauce, reduce th6 liquor, and take off all the fat, until 
 sufficient to make the sauce, which you will add to some good eooley, 
 with some chopped dressed mushrooms 1 ; season with cayenne pepper 
 and salt ; if approved of, add some hot pickles of different colours* 
 the last thing in the sauce. Add a dust of sugar to your sauce. < 
 
 ' IS?Q.~ BOND DB B<EUF EN SaNIAIUKE. > 
 
 Bone a rib of beeft skewer the meat as a fillet of veal, pickle it 
 five days in a brine composed of common salt, saltpetre, bay salt, and 
 coarse sugar; put it into.., hot water but not boiling water, let it 
 simmer but, not boil, if eight or nine pounds it will take two hours 
 and longer in proportion to the weight. 
 
 If it is found that the, skewer does not shape it sufficiently like & 
 round of beef, bind it with tape, this will perhaps be proved the best 
 method to proceed with at first. 
 
 131.— A SALT RO0ND OF BEEF. "<; 
 
 Use the spice as for the fillet of beef, but salt as usual for a round 
 of beef. Let it lie For a Week', frequently rubbing it ; boil it in a 
 cloth ; send up carrots, and turnips, and suet dumplings, and a little 1 
 gravy from what it was boiled in, adding a little consomme^ or it will 
 be too salt. Young cabbages in a dish, send up. •' 
 
 122. — BEEF OLIVES. 
 
 Cut into slices about half an inch in thickness, the underdone part 
 of cold boiled, or roast beef, cut an eschalot up finely, mix it with 
 some crumbs of bread, powdered with pepper and salt, and cover the 
 slices of meat with them, then roll, and secure them with a skewer; 
 then put them into a stewpan, cover them with the gravy from ihe 
 beef mixed with water, stew gently, when tender they are done 
 enough, serve them with beef gravy. 
 
 JP 2 
 
68 BEEP. 
 
 4 . — 
 
 123 — BUMP OF BEEF. 
 
 Take out the large bone of a rump of beef, take your largest 
 larding pin, Qr the point of your steel will do, cut some pieces of 
 bacon four inches long according to the size of your beef a square, 
 withdraw your steel. and introduce the cut bacon in the holes of the 
 lean part of the beef in several places, then tie up the beef as the 
 brisket, and proceed exactly the same as in the former dish. 
 
 124. STEWED BUMP OF BEEF. 
 
 Half roast the beef: then place it in the stewpan, add three 
 pints or two quarts of water, according to the weight of the joint, 
 two wine-glasses of vinegar, three of red wine, more if expense be 
 not considered, a bottle not being too much; cider is sometimes used, 
 but the meat may be stewed without it, add three spoonfuls of walnut 
 ketchup, two or three blades of mace, a shalot, a dessert-spoonful of 
 lemon pickle, cayenne pepper, and salt, cover the stewpan close 
 down, stew gently for two hours, or three if the rump of beef is large, 
 take it up and place it in the dish in which it is to be served, keep- 
 ing it hot in the manner previously prescribed ; remove the scum 
 from the gravy in which it has been stewed, and strain it ; add half 
 a pint of mushrooms, three table-spoonfuls of port wine, a spoonful 
 of Harvey's sauce, thicken with flour and butter, pour over the beef, 
 garnish with pickles, forcemeat balls, and horseradish. . 
 
 125. — hunter's beef. 
 
 Hang for three days a round of beef of twenty pounds, at the 
 expiration of that time rub it with brine, composed of three ounces 
 of saltpetre, twelve ounces of salt, a spoonful of allspice, one of black 
 pepper, an ounce of coarse brown sugar ; before it is rubbed with this 
 mixture it must be boned, and it must be rubbed well every day, 
 turning for a fortnight. When it is to be dressed put it into a 
 stewpan, pour in a pint of water, shred a quantity of mutton suet, 
 cover the meat with it, lay over it a thick crust, attaching it round 
 the edge of the pan, tie over securely with paper, and bake for six 
 hours in an oven moderately heated ; take away the paper and crust, 
 chop some parsley very fine, sprinkle it over the beef, and serve it 
 cold. 
 
 It will keep some time ; the gravy will make a good flavouring for 
 soups. 
 
 126. — SPICED BEEF. 
 
 A joint from the round, rump, or flank, from ten to fourteen pounds 
 is the usual weight of the piece intended to be thus dressed. Make 
 a mixture of the following 'ingredients, and let them be well amal- 
 gamated ; pound finely as much mace as will quite fill a tea-spoonv 
 grind a nutmeg to powder, and add it, also two spoonfuls of cloves; 
 one fourth of that quantity of cayenne pepper, and half a pound of 
 
BEEF. 6i> 
 
 coarse brown sugar ; rub the beef well with this mixture for three 
 days, turning it each day once ; add three quarters of a pound of 
 salt, and then continue rubbing well each day, for ten days more ; at 
 the expiration of that time dip it into some cold clear, spring water, 
 twice or thrice, secure it into a handsome shape, put it into a stewpan 
 with a quart of good beef broth, let it come to a boil, skim as the 
 scum rises, and as soon as it boils put in three carrots cut in slices, 
 a bundle of sweet herbs, a little parsley, and an onion ; stew gently 
 four hours. 
 
 If it is intended to serve this dish cold, let it remain until it is 
 cool in the liquor in which it was boiled, but take the precaution to 
 put the meat into a clean pan, and pour the liquor over it. 
 
 127. — A PICKLE FOB BEEF. 
 
 To one gallon of water put two pounds and a half of common salt, 
 one ounce of saltpetre, half a pound of coarse sugar, boil it for a 
 quarter of an hour, and be particular while boiling to remove every 
 particle of scum while rising, that it may be as clear as possible, let 
 it be cold when poured upon the beef. If it is desired to make the 
 pickle last for a very long time, add a gallon of spring water to the 
 above quantity, which should, if for keeping, be also spring water, 
 add three ounces of saltpetre, two pounds of bay salt, and a pound 
 and a half of coarse brown sugar. Whatever joints are put into this 
 pickle, they should be kept closely covered down. Prepare thus the 
 beef for pickling, keep it as long as you can without taint, spread over 
 it coarse sugar, and let it remain for two days to drain. Rub the 
 beef thoroughly with the pickle, and let it remain in it eight, ten, 
 twelve, or fourteen days, according to its size and quantity, a con- 
 siderable quantity of beef may be pickled together, indeed the closer 
 it is packed the better, so that it is covered with the pickle and kept 
 tightly down ; when they are taken out of the pickle, lay some sticks, 
 across the pan and let them drip into it, when as much has fallen 
 from them as will, wipe them dry, and they may either be cooked at 
 once or dried; if the latter be determined upon, after having well 
 dried them smoke eight hours over burnt sawdust and damp straw, or 
 sew them in a cloth and send them to the baker, and let them hang 
 seven or eight days. Do not, as in the other receipt, boil the pickle 
 before using the first time, but after it has been once used, and every 
 succeeding time, observing that it must be kept skimmed, and each 
 time of boiling add a quart of water and a couple of pounds of salt. 
 This pickle will answer equally well for hams or tongues. 
 
 128. HUNG BEEF. 
 
 Take twelve to fourteen pounds of the flank of beef, throw over it 
 a handful of salt ; let it drain twenty-four hours. Make a brine of 
 one pound of salt, one ounce of saltpetre ; let them be quite dry, and 
 pound them to a fine powder before using, a quarter of a pound of 
 bay salt and two ounces of coarse sugar. If it is intended to make 
 
70 BEEF. 
 
 the beef red, add three' grains of cochineal ;• rub toe'bSef with (Ms 
 'brine fo? a week, and then turn it; let it remain two d^ye, and. then 
 -Tub in again for seven or eight days ; then let it draim : from the 
 .pickle. Send it to the baker's to be smoked. When wanted for 
 'dressing, put it into cold water more than enough to cover it, boil 
 gradually until enough, and put it under : a heavy weight "White hot. 
 .It may be served with earrots and greens, or, if for grating, choose a 
 "lean piece, put it in boiling water ; : keep it boiling rapidly ; ! *fouf 
 pounds will take an hour. ' ■ '■ ■ '" ' ' 
 
 129. BEEF HUNG. ''"'■/'' '"'' _ 
 
 The best piece is the navel piece, it must be hung up in a cellar 
 until it is a little damp, but not long enough to change, take it down 
 and wash it well in brown sugar and water, dry.it with a cloth, cut it 
 in two or three pieces, take half a pound of Jbrown sugar,, two Donalds 
 of bay salt dried audpoundefl small, six4>Umces of saltpetre, dried and, 
 beat fine, rub it well into the beef, then rub common salt over it as 
 much as will make it salt enough, let it lie together tea dap^ehangi 
 ing the pieces from the bottom to the top, hang it where it, may have 
 |he warmth of the fire, but not too near,; when.it is dressed hoU it 
 in hay. and pump water until tender ;" it will keep .two or three 
 months, when mouldy dip it in water, 
 
 130.— dutch arose ;beef. 
 
 Rub a lean piece of beef about twelve pounds wiA treaele', and turn 
 it frequently, in three days wipe it dry, salt it With a pound of salt 
 and an ounce of saltpetre in fine powder, rub well in, turning every 
 day for fourteen days, roll it as tightly as you can in a coarse cloth, 
 lay a heavy weight upon it, hang it to dry in the smoke from wood, 
 reversing it every day, boil in spring water, press it while hot and 
 grate or riee it to fimey. 
 
 181. RUMr STEAK STEWED. 
 
 Cut a steak about an inch thick with a good bit of fat. fry it ovist 
 a brisk fire, place it in a stewpan with the gravy, a lrttte good. stocky 
 a little portivine, and some chopped mushrooms, stew gently ; when, 
 tender put into it some good brown sauce, shake it gently about.;; 
 dish it, and put scraped or grated horse-radish on the top ; if for 
 oysters .or mushrooms, see those sauces; season with salt, cay.emw?, 
 pepper, and sugar. 
 
 132. RUMP STEAK PLAIN BROILED. 
 
 Cut your steak not so thick as for the former ; have ready a good 
 clear fire, put your gridiron to get quite hot, then put on the steak" at 
 full length, frequently stirring it with your steak tongs, a few minutes 1 
 according to teste will do it, place it on your dish, put a good alkie of 
 butter rubbed .all over it, and now pepper- and salt it. Hotee-rSdlsliT 
 on the top of it, and feeqaentJy sauces. • ■ - -i 
 
BEE£\ 7£ 
 
 : ,,13^.^B^F STEAKS; — BBOILED. ; ,,- ! , 
 
 . Be particular that the fire is clear ; it is of no use to attempt to J 
 broil a steak over a dull,; smoky, or flaring fire ; see that the gridiron' 
 is clean, and the bars rubbed with suet preparatory to, laying on the* 
 steak; when they are browned turn them, do not be afraid of doing 
 this often, as this is the best plan to preserve the gravy. When they 
 are done rub them over with a piece of fresh butter, pepper and salt 
 them, sprinkle the shalot or onion cut very small, and send them 'to 
 table with Oyster sauce, a dish of nicely cooked greens, and well* 
 boiled potatoes, they are frequently and pleasantly garnished with' 
 seraped horseradish. 
 
 134. — BEEF STEAKS EOLLED ANX> KOASTED. 
 
 , Cut handsome steaks from the rump, and if not sufficiently tender 
 let them be well beaten, make a rich stuffing of equal parts of haimi 
 and veal, well peppered, stew it for a short time, and pound it in a' 
 mortar with bread steeped in milk, a lump of butter, and the yolk of 
 two or three eggs ; spread this forcemeat over the steaks, roll them 
 up and tie them tightly, ; roast them before a clear fire. They will 
 occupy, an hour and twenty minutes to an hour and a half roasting ; 
 haste well with butter while rbasting, and serve with brown gravy. . 
 
 135.— --STEWED BEEF STEAKS. 
 
 Stew the steaks in three parts of a pint of water, to which has ; 
 been added a bunch of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, an onion- 
 stuck with cloves — say three, an anchovy, and a lump of butter soaked 
 m flour, pour over a glass of sherry or Madeira. Stew with the 
 pan covered down, until the steaks are tender, but not too much so ;' 
 then place them in a fryingpan with enough of fresh butter, hissing 
 hot, to cover them, fry them brown, pour off the fat, and in its place 
 pour into the pan the gravy in which the steaks were stewed ; when 
 the gravy is thoroughly heated, and is of a rich consistency, place 1 
 the steaks in a hot dish, pour the sauce over them. The steaks- 
 should be large, the finest from the rump, and have a due proportion 
 of fat with them. 
 
 136. — BEEF STEAKS^A. LA FBAN9AISE. 
 
 Take a fine steak and, dipit into cold Spring water, let it drain a 
 few. minutes,; lay it jn a dish and pour over it sufficient clarified gut- 
 ter hot, and cover it; let it remain twelve hours, theii remove, the 
 butter; and roll tfee steak with the. rolling-pin a dozen times,, rather, 
 hardly, let it lie in front of a clear fire ten minutes, turning it once 
 or twice, put it into a frying-pan, with water half an inch in depth, 
 and let it fry until it. browns. . , , ■•■ 
 
 r ;Mdnce some parsley very fine, chop an esphalot as fine as can be, 
 ait-4 season theni witti cayenne, salt, apd, a little white pepper, w.orls, 
 tjiejn with a. lump pf r ii;esh,but^r, and, when tfre steak is brown takq 
 
72 BEEF. 
 
 it from the pan, rub it well with the mixture on both sides, and re- 
 turn it to the pan until enough; dish it, thicken the gravy in the pan 
 with a little butter rolled in flour if it requires it, and pour it over 
 the steak and serve. 
 
 137. BEEF STEAKS A LA PARISIENNE. 
 
 Cut thin steaks from the finest and tenderest part of the rump, 
 sprinkle pounded salt, a little cayenne, and white pepper combined, 
 over them, lay them in a pan with an ounce of fresh butter, cut in 
 pieces ; work half a tea-spoonful of flour with three ounces of fresh 
 butter, as much parsley minced exceedingly fine as would lie on a 
 shilling, roll it, and cut in large dice, lay it in a dish, squeeze the 
 half of a lemon over the butter, and when the steaks are done lay 
 them upon the butter ; have ready a quantity of raw peeled potatoes, 
 cut in thin slices, and washed in milk and water ready, fry them in 
 the butter and gravy left by the steak, and lay them round the dish; 
 they will be done when they are a rich brown. 
 
 138. PALATES OF BEEF. 
 
 Four white skinned palates, if for a white dish lay them all night 
 in salt and water, wash them well, put them on to scald, take off all 
 the skin, then put them into your stock pot, let them boil several 
 hours until so tender that you can pass a straw through them, then 
 take them up and lay them flat on a large dish separate, placing 
 another on the top of them with a weight to keep them flat : if to be 
 dressed whole turn the sides smooth, spread each with quenelle or 
 forcemeat, roll them up and tie them, it will take six for this dish ; 
 steam them for a quarter of an hour, take them up and glaze them 
 well, and take off the string; if for a turban or timbales, cut them out 
 with a plain round cutter, either using two small moulds or one large, 
 proceed with those two as you would for the timbale of macaroni, 
 leaving out the cheese and any other layer, introduce slices of Unifies 
 all round, and then palates, then mushrooms until your mould is full, 
 put a layer of quenelle on the top, paper it on the top with buttered 
 paper, steam as other timbales ; haricot roots, truffles, mushrooms, 
 tomato, piquant, any of these will do for sauces, or Italienne ; glaze 
 the tops when turned out. 
 
 139. BEEF PALATES. 
 
 Take as many as required, let them simmer until they peel, put 
 them in a rich gravy, stew until very tender, season with cayenne, 
 salt, two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, — serve. 
 
 140. BEEF KIDNEY, BOGNON DE B02UF SUFERBE. FBIED. 
 
 Remove all the fat and the skin from the kidney, and cut it in 
 slices moderately thin. Mix with a tea-spoonful of salt, grated nut- 
 meg, and cayenne pepper. Sprinkle over them this seasoning, and 
 
BEEP. 73 
 
 also parsleys and eschalot chopped very fine. Fry them over a quick 
 fire until brown on both sides, pour into a cup of good gravy a glass 
 of Madeira, and -when the slices of the kidney are browned, pour it 
 into the pan gradually ; just as it boils throw in a spoonful of lemon 
 juice, with a piece of butter the size of a nut. Have ready a dish, 
 garnished with fried bread cut in dice ; pour the whole into it. 
 
 141. BEEF KIDNEYS. STEWED. 
 
 Procure a couple of very fine beef kidneys, cut them in slices, and 
 lay them' in a stewpan ; put in two ounces of butter, and cut into 
 very thin slices four large onions ; add them, and a sufficiency of 
 pepper and salt, to season well. Stew them about an hour ; add a 
 cupful of rich gravy to that extracted from the kidney. Stew five 
 minutes, strain it, and thicken the gravy with flour and butter, give 
 it a boil up. Serve with the gravy in the dish. 
 
 142. BEEF CAKE. 
 
 Choose lean beef, it should also be very tender, if a pound put six 
 ounces of beef suet, mince finely and season with cloves, mace, and 
 salt, in fine powder, put the largest proportion of salt and least of 
 mace, add half the quantity of the latter of cayenne, cut into thin 
 slices a pound of bacon, and lay them all round the inside but not at 
 the bottom of a baking dish, put in the meat pressing it closely down, 
 cover it with the remaining slices of bacon, lay a plate over it face 
 downwards, and upon it something heavy to keep it from shifting. If 
 there be three pounds of beef bake two hours and a half, remove the 
 bacon and serve with a little rich gravy. These cakes may be made 
 of mutton, or veal, or venison. 
 
 143. — BEEF A LA BRAISE. 
 
 Take two or three ribs of beef, cut away only the fleshy part that 
 is next the chine, and take away all the fat ; lard it with pretty good 
 size of lardings of bacon seasoned with spices, sweet herbs, parsley, 
 young onions, a small quantity of mushrooms and truffles shred very 
 small ; having larded the beef tie it into a neat form with packthread 
 and put it into a stewpan, having previously lined the bottom of the 
 stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, and over them lay slices of lean 
 beef about an inch thick beaten well and seasoned with spice, sweet 
 herbs, onion, lemon peel, bay leaves, salt, and pepper, then put in 
 your beef, laying the fleshy side downwards, that it may take the 
 better relish of the seasoning, then season the upper part as you did 
 the lower, and lay over it slices of beef, and over them slices of bacon 
 as you did at the bottom, then cover the stewpan and close it well all 
 round the edge of the cover with paste, then put fire on the cover of 
 your stewpan as well as under ; when the beef is sufficiently stewed 
 take it up and let it drain a little, then lay it on a dish and pour the 
 following ragout upon it. 
 
■/ Wliile yourbee/ is stewing make a ragout as &Uofws>-r , t*^' v ^: 
 sweathreads. livers of capons, mushrooms, truffles, topspf asparagus, 
 and bottoms of artichokes, toss these up with some' mel^di bapon,. 
 moisten it with good gravy, and thicken it with cullis made of veal, 
 and gammon, and bacon. 
 
 144. BEEF -HEART. 
 
 Wash it very carefully* stuff it the same as yon-would a hare, roast 
 or bake it, and serve with a rich gravyand currant jelly sauce, hash 
 with the same and port wine. ■;■,;:. ■•■■* 
 
 145, —BEEF HE ART BOASTED. ,;.i. 
 
 : Wash thoroughly, stuff with forcemeat, send it to table as hot as, it 
 is possible with currant jelly sauce, it will take about forty minutes 
 roasting, but this depends upon the fire. - : ' ' l 
 
 146. BEEP HEAR?. 
 
 . I^et it be thoroughly well cooked, and the skin removed, Wipe it 
 daily with a clean cloth, stuff it' with veal stuffing • roast twty hours 
 and a quarter. Make a brown gravy, as for hare ; and serve with 
 the gravy and currant jelly. 
 
 The most pleasant way to the palate of dressing this dish, is to 
 roast the heart for rather less than two hours, let it get'cold, cut it 
 in pieces, and jug it the same as hare. 
 
 147. — BEEF COXLOPS. 
 
 . Any part of beef which is tender will serve to make collops ; cut 
 the beef into pieces about three inches long,, beat them flat, dredge 
 them with flour, fry them in butter, lay them in a stewpan, cover them 
 with brown gravy, put in half an eschalot minced fine, a lump of 
 butter rolled in flour, to thicken with a little p r epper and salt ; stew 
 without suffering it to boil ; serve with pickles, or squeeze in half a 
 lemon, according to taste ; serve in a tureen, and serve hot. ; 
 
 148. BEEF GOIXOPS. MINCED ATJ NATUBEL. 
 
 Take of the tenderest part of lean beef, from twelve to sixteen ounces, 
 the quantity in fact must be regulated by the purpose for which it is 
 dressed, whether it be to place "before an invalid, or to swell the number 
 of diShes introduced, without adding much to the expense. 
 
 Jiince the beef, season with pepper and salt, put it into a stewpan 
 to draw the gravy, let it siiiimer slowly, and keep it stirring, otherwise 
 it will lump ; let it stew very slowly ten minutes, add a little gravy, 
 Stew five minutes more, and serve while very hot. 
 
 j , . , , 149. — SAVOUEY. BEEF COIXpPS). COMMON RECEIPT. ',,. tj 
 
 •x Pmjfcdnto a stewpan, two ounces p£j batter kneaded in. th»ee, parts 
 of a table-spoonful of flour, when it melta add a table-spoonful of 
 
BSE!F. 75 
 
 rich brown gravy, «hop Some parsley very fine, anil also a few sweet 
 -hsrte, sprinkle them into the melting butter as it browits; when it is 
 of a good §old colour, add your minced beef, and keep it stirring until 
 it is thoroughly heated through, add a tea- cupful of gravy, and stew 
 eight minutes, then add a little ketchup, or a little ChiM vinegar, and 
 serve very hot. 
 
 The favourite method in Scotland is to mince the beef, season 
 it highly, put" it undressed into jars, cover the top with clarified 
 , butter, to eook it they put into the pan the butter which covered it, 
 throw in some onions in thin slices, and fry them ; when browning 
 add half a cupful of water, and then the minced meat : stew a few 
 minutes, and serve. 
 
 ISO.— BEEF A LA MODE. 
 
 There are several methods of making this dish ; the hash erro 
 neously termed alamode beef, sold at eating-houses, is a very different 
 dish to the true beef a la mode. The following is called the " old 
 Bath " receipt. 
 
 - Take a quantity of the buttock, or the leg of mutton piece, the 
 clod, or where expense is not an object the rump of beef as lean as 
 possible ; cut away the fat if there is' any, make a mixed powder of 
 cloves, about twenty or thirty, the same quantity of mace, with half 
 au ounce of allspice, savoury, parsley, a handful of thyme, knotted 
 marjoram, and all ether sweet herbs chopped very fine ; mix them in 
 a glass of vinegar. Take some fat bacon, cut it into slices as long as 
 the beef is thick, and about a quarter of an inch in thickness, roll it 
 well in the powdered spice and herbs, make incisions of the 
 requisite depth, and insert the bacon in the beef, which may be 
 rubbed well over with what remains of the powdered spice, &c, in 
 the vinegar; then dredge flour over the beef, place it in a baking 
 dish with a lump of butter rolled in flour, with a pint of water ; bake 
 it in the oven, strain the gravy, and serve with pickles on the top ; if 
 after being larded it should, instead of being baked, be put into the 
 stewpan, add to it as much water as will cover it, four onions chopped 
 fine, half a dozen cloves of garlic, as many bay leaves, a few chara-. 
 pignons, half a pint of ale, as much port wkie, add white pepper, 
 eayenne pepper, and salt, a tea-spoonful of pyroligneous. acid ; 
 strew three parts of a pint of fine bread raspings over it, cover down 
 «J«se and ste^P six or eight hours, according to the sjzeaf the beef ; 
 when it has stewed sufficiently, take out the beef, keep it hot over 
 boiling water, strain the gravy, remove the fet, champignons, &c. ; 
 b^il up agaia, season to palate, pour the gravy over the beef and send, 
 to. table, , 
 
 rTbis; is sometimes preferred, cold, in. which case serve it out in, 
 slices, with the gravy which will be a jelly. ,-,.-, 
 
 151. — BEEtfA-lA. MODE. AWOTHEB T WAY. 
 
 - Take a rump, or'pieee ef beef, bone it, beat it well, aad ted it with 
 fat bacon ; &en put it into a stewpto with some rind of bacon, „a calf fe 
 
76 BEEF. 
 
 foot, an onion, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bay leaf, thyme, a 
 clove of garlic, some cloves, salt, and pepper ; pour over the whole a 
 glass of water, let it stew over a slow fire for six hours at least. A 
 clean cloth should be placed over the stewpan before the lid is put 
 ion which must be closed ; when it is done strain the gravy through a 
 sieve ; clear off the fat and serve. 
 
 152. BEEF A LA MODE. ANOTHER WAT, 
 
 Take some of the round of beef, cut it five or six inches thick, cut 
 some fat bacon into long bits, take an equal quantity of beaten mace, 
 pepper, and nutmeg, with double the quantity of salt if wanted, mix 
 them together, dip the bacon in vinegar, garlic vinegar if agreeable, 
 then into the spice, lard the beef with a larding pin very thick and 
 even ; put the meat into a pot just big enough to hold it with a gill 
 of vinegar, two large onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a pint of 
 red wine, some lemon peel, cover it down very close, and put a wet 
 cloth round the edge of the pot to prevent the steam evaporating ; 
 when it is half done turn it, and cover it up close and do it over a 
 slow fire or a stove; it will take five hours doing, truffles and morels 
 may be added. 
 
 153. — ox TAILS. 
 
 Have them properly jointed by the butcher ; it saves time, and 
 experience enables the butcher to do the task more neatly than the 
 cook. They should be separated at each joint, until the end of the 
 tail is approached, and then two or three joints may be the length 
 allowed. Three or four tails may be cooked ; that, however, must be 
 regulated according to the quantity required. We give the propor- 
 tions for three tails. Cover them with water after laying them in the 
 saucepan, clear the scum as it rises, and when it boils put in a little 
 salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and half that quantity of 
 cayenne, eight or ten cloves stuck in two small onions, two large or 
 four small carrots, and a good sized bunch of parsley. Let it boil 
 very gently, until the meat is tender, they will take three hours ; 
 strain the gravy from the meat, thicken it, and serve up with the 
 tails in a tureen. When the gravy has been thickened, the vegetables 
 may be returned to it or not, according to taste, and it may be sent 
 to table,poured over the tails, or in a separate tureen. 
 
 Ox-tails are broiled, but as in any mode of dressing them they 
 require much cooking, they must first be stewed. They are not 
 divided in this mode of dressing, but boiled for a quarter of an hour 
 whole, stewed in sufficient gravy to cover them until tender, 
 then coated with yolk of egg, or fresh butter powdered with bread 
 crumbs, and broiled upon a gridiron, served immediately they are 
 browned. 
 
 154. — HAEICOT OF OX TAILS. 
 
 Joint the tails and choose those of a size ; in the country you must 
 use the large end and smaller in the dish. Blanch them for a few 
 
BEEF. 77 
 
 minutes, take them up, return them in a clean stewpan, cover them 
 ■with second stock, add a small faggot of sweet herbs, and a slice of 
 lean ham, a blade of mace, four cloves ; when tender take them up 
 and thicken the liquor, put a little brown sauce to it, have ready cut 
 in a shape carrots, turnips, twelve button onions, the middle of a 
 head of celery cut one inch long, a green gherkin or cucumber, cut 
 as for cutlet sauce six mushrooms ; after you have prepared the 
 vegetables add them to your sauce which you have previously passed 
 through a tammy ; boil all for ten minutes, season with sugar, and 
 salt, and pepper ; glaze the tails. 
 
 ,155. — BRISKET OF BEEF STEWED. 
 
 Take any quantity of brisket of beef required, say eight or ten 
 pounds, cover it with water, stew till tender,. bone the beef and skim 
 off the fat, strain the gravy, add a glass of port wine, flavour with 
 spice tied in a bag. Have boiled vegetables ready ; cut them into 
 squares, and garnish the beef from the gravy round it, and serve. ^ 
 
 156. BUMP OF BEEF EN MATELOTTE. 
 
 Cut the beef in pieces, half boil them, put them into some beef 
 broth or thin stock unseasoned and boil, when half done stir some 
 butter and flour moistened with the broth in a stewpan over the fire 
 until brown, put the beef into the pan with a dozen onions previously 
 parboiled, a glass of sherry, a bay leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 parsley, and pepper, and salt ; stew till the beef and onions are quite 
 done, skim clean, cut an anchovy small, put it with capers into the 
 sauce, put the beef in the centre of the dish; garnish with the onions 
 round it. 
 
 157. TO FB1CASEE COLD BOAST BEEF. 
 
 €ut the beef into slices, which should be very thin, put it with 
 some strong broth into a stew-pan, add parsley chopped small, an 
 onion scored, and a piece of butter, simmer fifteen minutes, add a 
 glass of port wine, a tea-spoonful of pyroligneous acid, and the yolk 
 of a couple of eggo ; mix well, stew quickly, pot the dish, rub it with 
 a shalot, pour fricasee into it, and serve. 
 
 158. — BEEF FRICANDEAU. 
 
 Take a piece of beef as lean as you can obtain it, lard it well over 
 on one side with pieces of bacon. Place in a stew-pan an eschalot, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, a faggot of parsley, a little cloves, three parts 
 of a quart of good broth, one glass of sherry, and pepper and salt to 
 palate. A clove of garlic may be added to the eschalot if it is not 
 found of sufficient strength to flavour it without. Put on the meat, 
 and stew until tender, take out the gravy, keep the meat covered 
 down close, skim and strain the sauce, boil it until reduced to a 
 glaze. Glaze the beef with it on the side larded, and serve with 
 sauce piquante, or sauce sorrel. 
 
78 BEES', 
 
 159. STEW OF OX-CHEEK. 
 
 Glean and wash it well, cut off the fleshiest parts, and break the 
 hones into an available size, put it into a atewkettie with enough 
 water to cover it, season with salt ; the pepper should be whole, and 
 with a few cloves, and a blade of mace tied in a bag made of muslin, 
 put it into the water, with three onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, half 
 a dozen carrots sliced, a head of celery sliced, and four or five turnips 
 of tolerable size; stew from five to seven hours; before serving the 
 meat may be removed, and the gravy thickened and browned; serve 
 hot, with the meat in the gravy. 
 
 Shin of beef is very excellent, dressed in this fashion. 
 
 160. — BEEF AND SAUER KRAUT. — GERMAN RECEIPT. 
 
 Put aboat eight pounds of beef into cold water. When it comes 
 to a boil, let it boil very fast for eight or ten minutes, not longer. 
 Take it out and lay it in a stewpan, cover it completely over with] 
 sauer kraut. Pour in a pint of thin gravy. Stew four hours, and 
 serve with the gravy in a tureen or deep dish. 
 
 161. — ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Prepare the beef for the stewpan as above, but instead of laying 
 the beef immediately in the stewpan, cut it into slices, not large, and 
 then put it in. Cover the pieces as before with sauer kraut, and add 
 three parts of a quart of weak broth, with two small onions in slices. 
 Boil, season with salt and pepper. Parboil the hearts of two summer 
 cabbages, and press all the water from them; halve them, and lay the 
 flat sides upon the beef, after it has been simmering an hour and 
 twenty minutes. At the end of three quarters of an hour, add a 
 sliced qnion or two, a couple of slices of lean ham cut in fingers, 
 and sprinkle with mixed spice. A vinegar sauce is eaten with this 
 dish. It is esteemed highly in the northern parts of Germany. 
 
 162, — BEEF SAUNDERS. 
 
 Wash, and put in a saucepan two pounds of potatoes ; cover them 
 well with water, and throw in a handftil of salt ; let them just reach 
 the boil, but never actually boil, until they are done. Peel them, 
 mash them with milk and two ounces of butter, season with cayenne 
 pepper and salt, and lay in a smooth paste a sufficiency to cover the, 
 bottom of a dish : upon this lay slices cut a moderate thickness of 
 rare beef very close together. Pour two table-spoonfuls of the 
 richest gravy you have over it, and cover with a crust of potatoes, 
 mashed ; bake in a slow oven for five-and-forty minutes. 
 
 The meat may be minced for this dish, and indeed is usually 
 cooked so, for the sake of time ; it occupies half an hour only, or less, 
 in cooking. It can be made of mutton as well as beef, or of pork or 
 beef sausage meat. 
 
BEEF. 79 
 
 163. BOUIIXT BEEF. 
 
 This receipt is made with the brisket of beef. Take the thickest, 
 and put it into an iron tinned kettle, and cOver with water ; it is 
 better for being rolled and tied. Put in turnips cut small, carrots, 
 celery, onions, and spice. Boil fast for an hour and three quarters, 
 stew for six hours, adding water as it evaporates. When it has 
 stewed five hours, take about two quarts of the soup, or as much as 
 your tureen will comfortably hold, add to it turnips and carrots cut 
 in dice. The ribs of beef may be cooked much in the same fashion. 
 
 164. BEEF BOUILLI. 
 
 About ten pounds for a flank or comer dish of the tender end or 
 middle of brisket of beef, tie it across with a string, place it in your 
 second stock pot, keep it covered and boiled for two or three hours ; 
 take it up, untie it, and take out the bones : put it on a clean dish 
 with one over it with some weight on the top until cold, then tie 
 it neatly up again, after having trimmed it to a nice square or long 
 shape, then return it to your stewpan until done, take it up and glaze 
 it several times ; if ornaments are liked, stick silver skewers 
 ornamented with truffles, capsicums, green gherkins, sweetbreads or 
 cock's combs : if for fish, cray fish or prawns. 
 
 165. A BEEF STEW. 
 
 Take two or three pounds of the rump of beef, cut away all the fat 
 and skin, and cut it into pieces about two or three inches square, put 
 it into a stewpan, and pour on to it a quart of broth, let it boil, sprinkle 
 in a little salt and pepper to taste ; when it has boiled very gently, 
 or simmered two hours, shred finely a large lemon, add it to the gravy, 
 and in twenty minutes pour in a flavouring composed of two table- 
 spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, the juice of the lemon the rind of which 
 has been sliced into the gravy, a spoonful of flour, and a little ketchup, 
 add at pleasure two glasses of Madeira, or one of sherry, or port, a 
 quarter of an hour after the flavouring, and serve. 
 
 166. BEEF HASHED. 
 
 Take the bones of the joint to be hashed, and break them small, 
 stew them in very little water, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and a few 
 onions ; roll a lump of butter in flour, brown it in a stewpan, pour 
 the gravy to it, and add the meat to be hashed, cut two small onions 
 in thin slices, a carrot also, and a little parsley shred finely ; stew 
 gently until the meat is hot through, and serve. 
 
 167. BEEF TONGUE. TO ODEE. 
 
 Throw a handful of salt over the tongue, seeing that it is sprinkled 
 on both sides, let it remain to drain until the following day, make a 
 pickle of a table-spoonful of common salt, half that quantity .of salt- 
 
80 BEEF. 
 
 petre, and the same quantity of coarse sugar as of salt; rub this 
 mixture well into the tongue, do so every day for a week ; it will then 
 be found necessary to add more salt, a table-spoonful will suffice, in 
 four more days the tongue will be cured sufficiently. 
 
 Some persons do not rub the pickle into the tongue, but let it 
 absorb it merely turning it daily, this method will be found to occupy 
 a month or five weeks before it will be cured. When the tongue is 
 to be dried affix a paper to it with a date ; smoke over a wood fire 
 four days unless wrapped in paper, and then as many weeks will be 
 required. 
 
 168. TO DKESS BEEF TONGUES. 
 
 To dress them, boil the tongue tender, it will take five hours; 
 always dress them as they come out of the pickle, unless they have 
 been very long there, then they may be soaked three or four hours 
 in cold water, or if they have been smoked, and hung long, they 
 should be softened by lying in water five or six hours, they should 
 be brought to a boil gently, and then simmer until tender ; when 
 they have been on the fire about two hours, and the scum removed 
 as it rises, throw in a bunch of sweet herbs of a tolerable size, it will 
 improve the flavour of the tongue. 
 
 169. TONGUE LARDED. 
 
 This when well cooked is especially pleasant to some palates. 
 Take a tongue which has been pickled, a small one is the best, cut 
 off the root, and put it into a pan ; cover it with water, and let it 
 boil five-and-twenty or thirty minutes. Take it out, and then dip 
 it in scalding water to blanch, and remove the skin. 
 
 Take a piece of fat bacon, cut it into strips for larding. Make a 
 seasoning of pounded sweet herbs, eschalot, mace, and a little 
 cayenne pepper mixed with white pepper and salt; sprinkle the 
 bacon strips with it, and leaving a line for division down the centre 
 of the tongue. Lard it all over. Braise the tongue, and then glaze; 
 separate it in the space left, but leave it attached at either end, so 
 that when laid open on the dish it is not entirely divided in two. 
 Have ready some brown sauce, flavoured with minced capers, sliced 
 pickled gherkins, the juice of half a lemon, and half a small tea- 
 spoonful of cayenne pepper. Pour it when ready into a dish ; lay 
 the tongue upon it, and serve as hot as possible. 
 
 170. TO STEW A TONGUE. 
 
 Cut away the root of the tongue, but leave the fat underneath, and 
 salt as above for seven days. Put it into a saucepan, and boil gently 
 until tender, and it will peel easily. Put it into a stewpan, cover it 
 with a rich gravy, into which put a spoonful of mushroom ketchup, 
 one of soy, and half a spoonful of cayenne pepper. Stew in the 
 gravy morels, truffles, and mushrooms, and serve with them in the 
 gravy. ' . , % 
 
BEEF. 81 
 
 171. BEEF BRAINS FRIED. 
 
 Let your brains be properly marinaded, then leave them to drain'; 
 make a preparation with warm water, a little butter, and salt, some 
 flour, and a spoonful of oil, and the whites of eggs whipped to snow, 
 mix altogether till like batter, dip your brains into this batter, and 
 then fry them a nice brown colour, when fried let them drain on a 
 dry cloth, garnish with fried parsley. 
 
 172. — BEEF BRAINS A LA SAUCE PIQUANTE. 
 
 Cook your brains in a marinade, drain them, put them on a dish, 
 and pour a sauce piquante all over them. 
 
 J 73. BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. 
 
 Sprinkle some slices of cold boiled beef with pepper, fry them 
 with a bit of butter of a light brown ; boil a cabbage, squeeze it 
 quite dry and chop it small, take the beef out of the frying-pan and 
 lay the cabbage in it, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over it, keep 
 the pan moving over the fire for a few minutes, lay the cabbage in 
 the middle of the dish and the beef around it. 
 
 174. BEEF SAUSAGES. 
 
 To three pounds of beef, veiy lean, put one pound and a half of 
 suet, and chop very finely ; season with sage in powder, allspice, 
 pepper, and salt, have skins thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat 
 into them. 
 
 175. — BEEF BROTH. 
 
 Take a leg of beef, wash it clean, crack the hone in two or three 
 parts, put it into a pot with a gallon of water, skim it well, then put 
 two or three blades of mace in a little bundle of parsley, and a crust 
 of bread, let it boil till the beef is quite tender, toast some bread, cut 
 it into dice, put them into a tureen, lay in the meat, and pour the 
 soup over it. 
 
 176. — MARROW BONES. 
 
 They must be sawn into convenient sizes ; cover the ends with a 
 little dough made of flour and water, and tie them in a floured cloth, 
 boil them an hour and a half, serve on a napkin with dry toast. 
 
 177. BAKED MARROW BONES. 
 
 The bones should be prepared as above and laid in a deep dish, 
 then put into an oven and bake gently for two hours. They are 
 sometimes cooked in batter, but if so, the marrow should be cleared 
 from the bones and put in buttered cases made of clean foolscap 
 paper; let them lie in the batter and serve with them in it; when the 
 batter is baked the marrow will be also done. 
 
 G 
 
$2 BEEF. 
 
 178. — TRIPE. 
 
 Take two pounds of fresh tripe, cleaned and dressed by the tripe- 
 dresser, cut away, the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal parts of milk 
 and water, twenty minutes to half an hour will be long enough. Boil 
 in the same water which boils the tripe four large onions ; the onions 
 should be put on the fire at least half an hour before the tripe is 
 put in the stewpan, and then made into a rich onion sauce, which 
 serve with the tripe. 
 
 Tripe is cleaned, dried, cut into pieces, and fried in batter, and 
 served with melted butter. 
 
 Tripe is cut into slices ; three eggs are beaten up with minced 
 parsley, sweet herbs, onions chopped exceedingly fine, parsley, and 
 mushrooms. The tripe is dipped into this mixture, and fried in 
 boiling lard. 
 
 Tripe may be cut into collops, covered with a mixture of parsley, 
 onions, and mushrooms, minced exceedingly fine, and fried in clari- 
 fied or fresh butter. Serve mushroom sauce with it. 
 
 Tripe can be stewed in gravy in which put parsley, onions, and 
 mushrooms, or in lieu of the latter, mushroom ketchup. Thicken 
 the gravy with flour and butter. When the tripe is tender, it will 
 be done. A lemon may be sent to table with it. 
 
 179. — CULLIS FOK ALL SORTS OF BUTCHER'S MEAT. 
 
 You must take meat according to the number of guests, if ten Or 
 twelve a leg of veal and a ham will be necessary, with all the fat, 
 skin, and outside cut off, cut the leg of veal into pieces of about three 
 or four inches thick each way, place them in a stewpan, and then the 
 slices of ham, two carrots, and an onion cut in two, cover it close, let 
 it stew gently at first, and as it begins to brown, take off the cover 
 and turn it to colour on all sides the same, but take care not to burn 
 the meat; when it has a pretty brown colour, moisten your cullis with 
 broth made of beef or other meat, season the cullis with a little sweet 
 basil, some cloves, and a little garlic, pare a lemon, cut it in slices and 
 put it into the cullis with some mushrooms, put into a stewpan a good 
 lump of butter, and set it over a slow fire, put into it two or three 
 handfuls of flour, stir it with a wooden ladle, and let it take a colour, 
 if the cullis be pretty brown you must put in some flour, the flour 
 being brown with the cullis, pour it gently into the cullis keeping it 
 stirring with a wooden ladle, then let the cullis stew softly and skim 
 off all the fat, put in two glasses of champagne or other white wine, 
 but take care to keep the cullis very thin, so that you may take the 
 fat well off and clarify it, you must clarify it by putting it into a stove 
 that draws well, cover it close and let it boil without uncovering 
 until it boils over, then uncover and take off the fat that is round the 
 stewpan, then wipe it off the cover also and cover it again,* when the 
 cullis is done take out the meat and strain the cullis through a silken 
 strainer ■ this cullis is for all sorts of ragouts, fowls, pies, and tureens. 
 
BEEF. 83 
 
 180. POTTED BEEF. 
 
 To a pound of common salt, put a quarter of an ounce of salt- 
 petre, and two ounces of coarse sugar. Rub three pounds of lean 
 beef with this, and let it remain in the brine fifty hours. Drain 
 and dry it, pepper it well with black pepper, put it into a pan ; cut 
 half a pound of butter in slices, and lay round it ; lay a paste crust 
 over it, and bake it very slowly four hours and a half. Let it get 
 cold, and then cut off the meat, being careful to separate the stringy 
 pieces from it : pound it in a mortar, working up with it four ounces 
 of fresh butter, and some of the gravy from the meat when baked, 
 seasoned with ground allspice, a little mace, and pepper. When the 
 meat has been combined with the butter and gravy, until it is 
 worked into an even paste, put it into jars, and cover with clarified 
 butter. 
 
 If it is purposed to keep it long, cover it with bladder skin. The 
 beef maybe potted without in the first instance being salted, but if it 
 is done it should have salt worked up with it, and be soon eaten after 
 potting. Some persons make their potted beef of meat that has 
 been previously cooked, but the above will be found to be the best 
 receipt. 
 
 181. — COW-HEEL. 
 
 Having been thoroughly washed, scalded, and cleaned, cut them 
 into pieces about two inches long, and one wide ; dip them into yolk 
 of egg, cover them with fine bread crumbs mixed with parsley 
 minced, cayenne pepper, and salt: and fry them in boiling butter. 
 
 182. ANOTHER WAT. 
 
 Having cleaned the feet, bone them, boil them, and stew them in 
 a rich brown gravy ; serve them with Indian pickle. Or, if plainly 
 cooked, boil until enough ; then serve them on a napkin, with melted 
 butter, flavoured with a spoonful of vinegar, and one of made mustard. 
 Lemon pickle may be served with them. 
 
 G 2 
 
84 VEAL. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 VEAL. 
 
 The failing of this meat is its tendency to turn ; should it show any 
 symptoms of doing this, and in an earlier part of the work T have 
 explained how it may be detected, put it into scalding water and let 
 it boil for seven or eight minutes, with some pieces of charcoal affixed, 
 plunge it into cold water immediately after taking it out of the hot, 
 and put it into the coolest place you have at command ; the skirt from 
 the breast, and the pipe from the loin should always be removed in hot 
 weather. 
 
 183. VEAL THE FILLET. 
 
 The fillet derives much of its pleasant flavour from being stuffed. 
 Veal, in itself, being nearly tasteless, the stuffing should be placed 
 in the hollow place from whence the bone is extracted, and the joint 
 should be roasted a beautiful brown ; it should be roasted gradually, 
 as the meat being solid will require to be thoroughly done through 
 without burning the outside ; like pork, it is sufficiently indigestible 
 ■without being sent to table and eaten half cooked ; a dish of boiled 
 iacon or ham should accompany it to table, a lemon also. 
 
 In roasting veal, care must be taken that it is not at first placed 
 too near the fire ; the fat of a loin, oDe of the most delicate joints of 
 veal, should be covered with greased paper, a fillet also, should have 
 on the caul until nearly enough : the shoulder should be thoroughly 
 boiled, when nearly done dredge with flour, and produce a fine froth. 
 
 184. FILLET OF VEAL, BOILED. 
 
 Bind it round with tape, put it in a floured cloth and in cold water, 
 boil very gently two hours and a half, or if simmered, which is per- 
 haps the better way, four hours will be taken; it may be sent to table 
 in bechamel or with oyster sauce. 
 
 Care should be taken to keep it as white as possible. 
 
 185. — BBEAST OF VEAL STEWED. 
 
 Put it into the stew-pan with some white stock, not much, add a 
 glass of sherry, a few mushrooms, a bunch of sweet herbs, three 
 
VEAL. 85 
 
 onions, pepper, and salt. Stew till tender, strain the gravy, and send 
 to table garnished with force-meat balls. 
 
 186. — BREAST OF VEAL, BOILED. 
 
 Put it into plenty of cold water, let it come to a boil, keep the scum 
 cleared as often as it rises, when it boils add a bunch of parsley, a few 
 blades of mace, a small bunch of sweet herbs, twenty or thirty white 
 peppers, stew an hour and a quarter, send to table with a nice piece 
 of bacon, and parsley and butter. 
 
 187. BKEAST OF VEAL RAGOUT. 
 
 Divide the breast lengthways in two, cut each piece into portions 
 of a reasonable size, put them into a pan with boiling butter, fry a 
 clear brown, lay the pieces in a stewpan with sufficient veal broth to 
 cover them, throw in a small faggot of sweet herbs and parsley, two 
 onions, one large blade of mace, half a dessert spoonful of allspice, 
 and the peel of a lemon, season with pepper and salt, cover close, 
 and stew an hour and a half, or longer if the meat requires it ; take 
 it off and strain the gravy, remove the fat, keep the veal closely 
 covered, and in a small stewpan put a little butter and flour, pour in 
 the strained gravy gradually, let it come to a boil, remove any scum 
 that may rise, pour in a glass of sherry or Madeira, two table-spoon- 
 fuls of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup, and squeeze in the juice 
 of half a lemon ; boil it up, place the veal in a deep hot dish, pour 
 the gravy over it, and serve. 
 
 188. BEEAST OF VEAL FOBCED. 
 
 After taking out the tendons and all the rib bones, flatten and 
 trim the veal, spread it all over with forcemeat, sprinkle over it, if 
 you have got it, a little chopped truffle or mushrooms, sprinkle a 
 little pepper and salt over it, then roll it tightly up and tie it, then 
 put it into a cloth and stew it for several hours, take it up, and take 
 off the cloth and strings ; dry it and glaze it, put some good sauce. 
 
 189. — SHOULDER OF VEAL. 
 
 Remove the knuckle and roast what remains, as the fillet ; it may 
 or may not be stuffed at pleasure ; if not stuffed, serve with oyster or 
 mushroom sauce ; if stuffed, with melted butter. 
 
 190. SHOULDER OF VEAL, BONED AND STEWED. 
 
 Bone the shoulder and lay in the orifice a veal forcemeat, roll and 
 bind the shoulder, roast it an hour, theu put it into a stewpan with 
 good white or brown gravy and stew four or five hours, regulate the 
 time to the size of the joint, take up the meat, strain the gravy to 
 clear it of fat, and serve with forcemeat balls. 
 
86 VEAL. 
 
 191. SHOULDER OF VEAL A LA PIEDMONTESE. 
 
 Strip the skin off the shoulder, leaving it attached at one end ; 
 now lard the meat with fat bacon or ham, add a seasoning of sweet 
 herbs, mace, parsley, lemon-peel chopped fine, pepper, and salt; 
 replace the skin, place it in a stew-pan with gravy, and stew till 
 tender; then chop spinach fine, to which add a table-spoonful of 
 vinegar, chop a lettuce with it, also some onions, parsley, and mush- 
 rooms, stew them in butter ; add to them when tender some of the 
 gravy, bits of ham, and some sweetbreads, stew all together for a 
 short time, lift up the skin of the shoulder, and place the herbs over 
 and under, return the skin as before, pour melted butter over it, add 
 crumbs of bread, brown it in the oven, and serve hot with gravy in 
 the dish. 
 
 199. LOIN OF VEAL, STEWED. 
 
 The chump end is the part to stew. Put it well floured into a 
 stewpan with butter ; after the butter has been browned over the fire, 
 brown it, and when a good colour pour in enough veal broth to half 
 cover it, put in two carrots cut in pieces, an onion, a little parsley, 
 and a small bunch of sweet herbs, stew it two hours and a half, turn 
 it when half done, when enough, take out the meat, thicken the broth, 
 season it, and pour over the veal. 
 
 193. — LOIN OF VEAL. 
 
 Divide the loin, roast the kidney, and place under the fat a toast, 
 and serve swimming in melted butter. The chump end must be 
 stuffed with the same stuffing as the fillet, and served with the same 
 sauce; those who object to putting the stuffing in the joint, may 
 send it to table with balls of stuffing in the dish. 
 
 194. LOIN OF VEAL, BOILED. 
 
 Take a loin about eight pounds, skewer down the flap without dis- 
 turbing the kidney, put the loin into a kettle with enough cold water 
 to cover it,, let it come gradually to a boil (it cannot boil too slowly), 
 continue for two hours and a quarter, but it must boil ; remove the 
 scum as it rises, send it to table in bechamel, or with parsley and 
 melted butter. 
 
 195. KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 
 
 Get a knuckle of a leg of veal, saw it in three, parts, hut not to 
 separate it, scald it, and put it for a few minutes in cold water, 
 then place it in a stewpan with some good second stock, an onion or 
 two, a faggot of herbs, a few sprigs of parsley, a carrot, a turnip, 
 and a head of celery, a blade of mace, a slice of raw ham, fat and 
 lean ; stew it for several hours, until the gristle is soft, take out the 
 veal, eover it over to keep it white ; strain the liquor, wash a pound 
 of rioe and boil it in this liquor, add half a pint of cream or milk, 
 when the rice is done put your veal again into it to make hot ; dish 
 your veal carefully, and, season the rice with pepper and salt, and 
 
VEAL. 67 
 
 pour ove,r the veal ; if with parsley and butter instead of water, use 
 the stock from it, and chop fine some boiled parsley and mix into it. 
 
 196. KNUCKLE OF VEAL, BOILED. 
 
 Put sufficient water over it to cover it, let it boil gently, and when 
 it reaches a boil as much salt as would fill a dessert-spoon may be 
 thrown in, keep it well skimmed, and boil until tender, serve with 
 parsley and butter, and a salted cheek. 
 
 Allow twenty minutes to each pound. 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of" rice may be boiled with it, or green 
 peas, or cucumbers; turnips and small spring onions may be put in, 
 allowing them so much time from the cooking of the veal as they 
 will require. 
 
 197. — KNUCKLE OF VEAL, STEWED. 
 
 Place your knuckle of veal in a stewpan, if the knuckle is a very 
 large one it may be divided into two or three pieces for the sake of 
 convenience, put in the pan with it a few blades of mace, a little 
 thyme, an onion, some whole pepper, a burnt crust of bread, and 
 cover with from three to four pints of water, cover down close, and 
 boil; when it has boiled place it by the side of the fire and let it 
 simmer for at least two hours, take it up, keep it hot while you strain 
 its liquor, then pour the gravy over it, and send it to table with a 
 lemon garnish. 
 
 198. ANOTHER WAT. 
 
 Let the knuckle boil slowly in sufficient water till it is tender, 
 make a sauce of butter and flour, with parsley in it chopped fine, 
 slice a lemon and garnish the dish with it. 
 
 199. NECK OF VEAL 
 
 May be boiled or roasted — the latter only if it be the best end, and 
 sent to table garnished as in the above engraving — it may be broiled 
 in chops, but is best in a pie ; it may be, however, larded and stewed 
 as follows : — 
 
 200. NECK OF VEAL STEWED. 
 
 Lard it with square pieces of ham or bacon which has been pre- 
 viously rubbed in a preparation of shalots, spices, pepper, and salt ; 
 place it in the stewpan with about three pints of white stock, add a 
 bay or laurel leaf, and a couple of onions ; add a dessert- spoonful of 
 brandy or whiskey, the latter if brandy is not at hand, stew till tender, 
 dish the meat, strain the gravy, pour over the joint, and serve. 
 
Ob VEAL. 
 
 201. — NECK OF VEAL — BRAISED. 
 
 This is done much in the same manner as the neck of veal stewed ; 
 it is larded with bacon rolled in chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg, placed with the scrag in a tosser, in which place lean bacon, 
 celery, carrots, one onion, a glass of sherry or Madeira, with sufficient 
 water to cover it all, stew over a quick fire until it is sufficiently ten- 
 der, remove the veal and strain the gravy, place the veal in a stewpan 
 in which some butter and flour has been browned, let the bones be 
 uppermost, when the veal is nicely coloured it is enough, boil as much 
 of the liquor as may be required, skim it clean, squeeze a lemon into 
 it, pour it over the meat, and serve. 
 
 202. — VEAL CUTLETS. 
 
 The cutlets should be cut as handsomely as possible, and about 
 three quarters of an inch in thickness, they should before cooking be 
 well beaten with the blade of a chopper, if a proper beater be not at 
 hand, they should then be fried a light brown and sent up to table, 
 garnished with parsley and rolls of thin sliced, nicely fried bacon ; 
 they are with advantage coated previously to cooking with the yolk 
 of an egg, and dredged with bread crumbs. 
 
 203. — ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Procure your cutlets cut as above, coat them with the yolk of eggs 
 well beaten, strew over them bread crumbs powdered, sweet herbs, 
 and grated lemon peel and nutmeg, put some fresh butter in the pan, 
 and when boiling put in your cutlets ; now make some good gravy ; 
 when the cutlets are cooked take them out and keep them before the 
 fire to keep hot, dredge into the pan a little flour, put in a piece of 
 batter, pour a little white stock, squeeze in juice of lemon to taste, 
 season with pepper and salt, add mushroom-ketchup, boil quickly 
 until a light brown, pour it over the cutlets, and serve, the cutlets 
 being laid in a circle round the dish, and the gravy in the centre. 
 
 204.— VEAL CUTLETS CURRIED. 
 
 The cutlets may be prepared as for collops by cutting them into 
 shape, dipping them into the yolk of eggs, and seasoning them with 
 fine bread crumbs about four table-spoonfuls, two spoonfuls of 
 curry-powder, and one of salt ; fry them in fresh butter ; serve with 
 curry, sauce, which may be made with equal parts of curry powder, 
 flour, and butter, worked well together into a paste ; put it ' into the 
 pan from which the cutlets have been removed, moisten with a cup- 
 ful of water in which cayenne and salt have been stirred; let it 
 thicken and serve very hot. 
 
 205. VEAL CUTLETS CRUMBED OK PLAIN. 
 
 If you have not got the leg of veal or the cutlet piece I before 
 named, get a thick slice of veal and cut fourteen good sized cutlets, 
 
VEAL. 89 
 
 not too thin, flatten each, and trim them a good shape, wet your beater 
 in cold water to keep the veal from sticking, if for plain cutlets 
 flower them well and dry them, then again have ready your saute- 
 pan or fryingpan quite hot, with a good bit of lard or butter, then 
 put in your cutlets, and fry a nice light brown ; pepper and salt them ; 
 if to be bread crumbed, trim them as before ; have ready a little 
 clarified butter, some chopped parsley, and shalot, pepper, and salt, 
 all mixed together with a yolk or two of eggs well mixed , have ready 
 some bread crumbs, put a spoonful of flour amongst them well 
 mixed ; dip each cutlet into this omelet, and thin bread crumb them, 
 patting each cutlet with your knife to keep it the proper shape, 
 making the bread crumbs stick to the cutlet ; melt some lard in your 
 saute pan, and place your cutlets in it ready to fry a nice brown. 
 
 206. VEAL CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON. 
 
 Half fry your cutlets, dip them in a seasoning of bread crumbs, 
 parsley, shalots, pepper and salt, and the yolk of an egg, enclose 
 them in clean writing paper, and broil them. 
 
 207. COLLOPS OF VEAL. 
 
 The piece of veal as before named, or if you have it, a leg of veal, if 
 not get a cutlet and cut it into thin pieces, and beat very thin, saute 
 them off, and when all done trim them round the size of a crown 
 piece, pepper and salt them, place them in a stewpan with some 
 cooley sauce if for brown, and if for white bechamel sauce, add some 
 forcemeat balls, some stewed mushrooms, and some whole dressed truf- 
 fles, season with pepper, salt, sugar, and lemon; dish the collops 
 round as you would cutlets, putting the mushrooms, and balls, and 
 truffles in the middle. 
 
 208. VEAL COLLOPS 
 
 May be cooked precisely similar to beef collops, or as No. 200. 
 
 209. VEAL CHOPS LAEDED. 
 
 These are from the best end of the neck of veal, three thick chops 
 with a bone to each, trimmed neatly, either larded or not : but you 
 will braise as the former, and glaze them. 
 
 210. TENDONS OF VEAL. 
 
 This is from a breast of veal. Turn up the breast and with a 
 sharp knife cut off the chine bone all along, taking care you do not 
 take any of the gristle with the bone ; when you have cut off this 
 bone, place your knife under the gristle and follow it all along until 
 you have raised it up ; then cut off the tendons by keeping close to 
 the rib bones ; when you have got it out cut twelve or fourteen ten- 
 dons endways, keeping your knife slanting, as each may be the size 
 of a small pattie round, but not too thin ; then put them on in cold 
 
90 VEAL. 
 
 water to scald, then put them in cold again ; prepare a stewpan lined 
 with fat bacon or ham, trim each tendon round, throw the turnip in. 
 your braise, cover them with second stock and some of the skimmings, 
 let them stew gently for six or seven hours ; be careful in taking 
 them up, and place them separately upon a drying sieve ; glaze them 
 two or three times ; dish them on a border ; they should be so tender 
 that you might suck them through a quill. 
 
 211 GALANTINE VEAL. 
 
 Take a large breast of veal ; take off the chine bone, then take 
 out the gristle called tendons, then take out all the rib bones; flatten 
 it well, have ready some good forcemeat or sausage meat ; spread it 
 all over with your forcemeat, then make a line of green gherkins, 
 then a line of red capsicums, then a line of fat ham or bacon, then 
 some hard boiled yolks of eggs, then a line of truffles; if you have 
 any boiled calves' feet left from jelly stock, sprinkle it in with pieces 
 of breast of fowl ; sprinkle pepper and salt all over it, then roll it up 
 tightly, and likewise do so in a cloth; tie it up light; stew it for two 
 hours or more ; take it up and press it flat, let it lie until quite 
 cold ; take off the cloth. It will make excellent cold dishes. 
 
 212. OLIVES OF VEAL — EOTI. 
 
 Cut some cutlets a moderate thickness from the chump end of the 
 loin of veal, beat them and trim them, eight or a dozen, according 
 to dish ; get some slices of ham or bacon, cover the veal with force- 
 meat and with the fat, sprinkle between a little chopped mushrooms, 
 pepper and salt, roll each up, and tie and skewer each, then egg and 
 bread- crumb them, bake them in the oven with buttered paper over 
 them, cut the string when done, and before you send them to table, 
 draw the skewer, put asparagus sauce, tomato, or mushroom in the 
 dish. 
 
 213. POTTED VEAL. 
 
 This may be potted as beef, or thus : — pound cold veal in a mortar, 
 work up with it in powder mace, pepper, and salt, shred the leanest 
 part of tongue very finely, or ham is sometimes used ; place in a 
 jar or pot a layer of the pounded veal, and upon that a layer of the 
 tongue, and continue alternately until the pot is full, seeing that 
 every layer is well pressed down ; pour over the top melted clarified 
 butter. If it is desired, and which is frequently done, to marble the 
 veal, cut the tongue or ham in square dice instead of shredding it, 
 but care must be taken that they do not touch each other or the 
 effect is destroyed. 
 
 214. — VEAL HAEICOED. 
 
 Bone the best end of the neck, put it in a stewpan with three 
 pints of a rich brown gravy — let there be enough to cover it, stew ; 
 
VEAL. 91 
 
 whilst this is proceeding, stew four good sized cucumbers pared and 
 sliced, with a pint of peas, and a couple of cabbage-lettuces cut in 
 quarters, in some broth ; when sufficiently stewed, and the veal is 
 nearly done, add them to it, simmer ten minutes, serve with force- 
 meat balls. 
 
 215. — MINCED VEAL. 
 
 Cut the meat intended to be minced, which may be of any cold joint 
 of veal, into very small pieces, shred lemon peel very fine, grated nut- 
 meg, add salt and half a dozen table-spoonfuls of white stock, or if 
 considered preferable, milk; let these simmer slowly without boiling; 
 add butter rubbed in flour when nearly done, and when enough into 
 the dish lay diamonds of toasted bread round the dish, each bearing 
 a thin half slice of lemon, strew fried bread crumbs lightly over the 
 veal, and garnish with thin slices of boiled bacon in rolls. 
 
 216. — PAIN DE VEAU. 
 
 These cakes may be made according to the receipt for beef cakes, 
 page 73. 
 
 217. A NOIX DE VEAU. 
 
 You must have a leg of veal from a cow calf, with a good white 
 udder ; cut the veal as you did for the fricandeau, but be sure and 
 leave all the udder to it, and do not cut it off, only trim and lard 
 where it is not ; tie the udder down to the veal before you scald it, 
 and well cover the udder with fat bacon to keep it particularly white. 
 The white udder you may garnish with a wreath of boiled green 
 French beans, or tarragon, or truffles, but glaze the larding as for 
 the fricandeau ; be careful in dishing of it that the fat does not slip 
 from the lean. 
 
 218. — GEENADINS OF VEAL 
 
 Is the last piece left with the veins ; after cutting out the fricandeau, 
 the collop which you will see is round, and the cutlet piece, then this 
 solid round piece, which you will cut in half and trim it as you did 
 the former, keeping them either round or oval, lard them and braise 
 them the same as a fricandeau, only less time. 
 
 219 — GEENADINS FKOM A NECK OF VEAL. 
 
 About five bones from the best end of the neck ; cut out the fillet 
 close to the bones, trim it free from skin and sinews ; flatten it with 
 your beater, and trim it nicely. 
 
 220. — EMINCEES. 
 
 likewise made from dressed meat cut into very small dice ; put 
 fried or toasted bread sippets round the dish; a mashed potato or rice 
 rim is the neatest way for both these dishes to be sent to table. 
 
92 TEAL. 
 
 221. — FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. 
 
 Cut this from a large leg of veal, place the bone from you, then 
 the meat will be in front of you, you will see small veins in different 
 directions, put your knife in the one which is largest, following it all 
 round, then take that piece off, lay it upon your dresser, take clean 
 off the skin, keeping the meat rather high in the middle ; shave it 
 very smooth, lay the end of your rubber upon it, and with your 
 beater beat it well : take off your cloth and turn it again; keeping it 
 the shape of the veal bone, turn it over flat on a plate, cut off any 
 skin or pipe, then lard it with fat bacon; if for a Jew's family, lard it 
 with smoked beef fat, to be had from their own butcher's, or truffles ; 
 when it is larded put on a stewpan of cold water, place your veal in 
 it, keeping the bacon downwards, as otherwise the scum will settle 
 on the top, skim it, and when it simmers put your stewpan under 
 the top, and let it dribble gently upon it for five minutes, then turn 
 it over and take it up ; then line a stewpan with fat bacon or ham 
 cut in slices, a carrot, turnip, and onions, a celery, a faggot of sweet 
 herbs, put your fricandeau on a drainer in your stewpan, cover the 
 top with thin slices of bacon, half cover it with some second stock, 
 place it on a slow fire to stew gently, keeping a little all the time on 
 the top ; it will take about three hours, it should be as tender as to 
 be helped with a spoon, take it up and glaze it several times. 
 
 222. BLANQUETTE DE VEAU. 
 
 This dish may be dressed according to the receipt Blanquette 
 d'Agneau, page 109. 
 
 223. VEAL, CURRIED. 
 
 Cut the veal to be curried in small pieces — any part of veal, cooked 
 or uncooked, that is palatable, will serve. Put in a stewpan six 
 ounces of fresh butter, add to it half a pint of good white stock and 
 one table-spoonful of curry powder, put to this the veal to be curried, 
 cover down close, simmer for two hours, squeeze a quarter of a lemon 
 into it, and serve with a dish of boiled rice. 
 
 224. — calf's head. 
 
 The same way as No. 1 95 ; take out the tongue and cut it in half, 
 and beat up the brains in the parsley and butter, and season with 
 pepper and salt. 
 
 225. — if for grill. 
 
 When the head is boiled sufficiently, draw out all the bones, and 
 put it to cool, and then cut it, if not required whole, into square long 
 pieces, egg and bread crumb them as you would cutlets, only add 
 some chopped sweet herbs, as well as parsley ; put it in your oven to 
 brown. 
 
VEAL. 93 
 
 226. — calf's head. 
 
 Let the head be thoroughly cleaned, the brains and tongue be 
 taken out, boil it in a cloth to keep it white (it is as well to soak the 
 head for two or three hours previously to boiling, it helps to improve 
 the colour), wash, soak, and blanch the brains, then boil them, scald 
 some sage, chop it fine, add pepper, and salt, and a little milk, mix 
 it with the brains ; the tongue, which should be soaked in salt and 
 water for twenty-four hours, should be boiled, peeled, and served on 
 a separate dish. The head should boil until tender, and if intended 
 to be sent to table plainly, should be served as taken up, with melted 
 butter and parsley, if otherwise, when the head is boiled sufficiently 
 tender, take it up, spread over a coat of the yolk of egg well beaten 
 up, powder with bread crumbs, and brown before the fire in a Dutch 
 or American oven. 
 
 227. — calf's head — baked. 
 Butter the head, and powder it with a seasoning composed of 
 bread crumbs, very fine, a few sweet herbs and sage, chopped very 
 fine, cayenne, white pepper, and salt. Divide the brains into 
 several pieces, not too small, sprinkle them with bread crumbs, and 
 lay them in the dish with the head. Stick a quantity of small pieces 
 of butter over the head and in the eyes, throw crumbs over all, pour 
 in three parts of the dish full of water, and bake in a fast oven two 
 hours. 
 
 228. — calf's head, a la maItre d'h&tel. 
 Cut into very small collops the meat of a calf's head which has 
 been boiled and is cold ; put into a stewpan, well kneaded butter and 
 flour. Simmer them two minutes without colouring them; pour 
 gently in two tea-cupfuls of veal broth, and let it boil three minutes. 
 Put in two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, two dessert-spoonfuls 
 of vinegar, one of Chili ditto, a sprinkle of cayenne, and half a tea ■ 
 spoonful of pounded white sugar. When it boils put in the meat, 
 over which parsley, minced finely, has been spread. Heat it through 
 by simmering, and serve. 
 
 229. — to hash calf's head. 
 If this dish is to be made of the remains of a head already cooked, 
 there is no necessity to re-boil it before it is placed in the stewpan 
 with the other ingredients ; if it is made with one as yet uncooked, 
 soak it throughly for two hours, parboil it, cut the meat in slices 
 about an inch thick and three inches long, or smaller, if preferred ; 
 brown an onion sliced in flour and butter in a stew or saute pan, add 
 the meat with as much rich gravy as the quantity of meat will per- 
 mit, season with pepper, salt, and cayenne ; let it boil, then skim 
 clean, simmer until the meat is quite tender ; a few minutes before 
 you serve throw in parsley in fine shreds and some sweet herbs 
 
94 VEAL. 
 
 chopped very fine, squeeze a little lemon in, garnish with forcemeat 
 balls or thin slices of broiled ham rolled. 
 
 If expense is not an object you may add morels and truffles in the 
 browning. 
 
 230. — calf's head a la tortue. 
 
 Bone a calf's head whole ; after being well scalded and cleaned 
 cut off the ears, take out the tongue, cut the gristle and bones from 
 the tongue ; prepare a good forcemeat, add some chopped truffles 
 into it, and some mushrooms ; lay the head on a clean cloth on the 
 dresser, spread it thickly over with the forcemeat, blanch and take off 
 the skin of the tongue ; cut each ear in half longways, place them in 
 different parts on the forcemeat and the tongue in the middle, lap it 
 over keeping it high in the middle, tie the ends, and brace it all 
 over tightly with some loose string, as by doing so it will leave all 
 the marks appearing when glazed like the back shell of turtle, then 
 tie it up in a cloth; it will take some hours to boil ; when done, which 
 will be in your second stock, take it up and take off the cloth, put it 
 upon the dish, dry it and glaze it several times ; have ready cut from 
 the crumb of bread the form of a turtle's head and the four fins, fry 
 them a nice light brown, and glaze them with the head, placing 
 them to the head on the dish, as to look like a turtle crawling, for the 
 eyes use whites of hard boiled eggs ; a sauce you will find among 
 the sauces. 
 
 231. — calves' eaes. 
 
 Scald the hair from the ears, and clean them thoroughly; boil 
 them until they are tender in veal gravy, and then blanch them in 
 cold spring water. Serve them in chervil sauce, or in the gravy 
 thickened and seasoned in which they were cooked. A sauce may 
 be made of melted butter, with chervil mashed and put in, strained 
 with the butter through a sieve, and white sauce added. White 
 sauce is sometimes sent up alone with the ears; in that case it should 
 be flavoured with mushroom powder. 
 
 332. — calves' eaes — stuffed. 
 
 Prepare as above, and make a stuffing of calves' liver, ham grated, 
 fat bacon, bread steeped in cream, sweet herbs, a little mace, a little 
 salt, and bind it with an egg unbeaten. Stuff the ears with it. The 
 ears should be cut very close to the head, and the gristly part suf- 
 ficiently smooth to enable the ears to stand upright when served. 
 Rub the ears over with egg, and fry them a delicate brown. Serve 
 ■with brown gravy. 
 
 233. — calves' eaes — stuffed. — another way. 
 Blanch for an hour three ears ; take them up, and cut the ears 
 round at the top, fill them with some prepared farce ; slit the ears in 
 
VEAL. 95 
 
 three or four places so tbat they may curl down ; put them to stew 
 in some good second stock, put a truffle or plover's egg on each top 
 of the farce ; glaze them well several times ; put mushroom sauce or 
 puree of tomata or truffles, or a piquant sauce, either a white sauce 
 or brown, whichever suits your other dishes. 
 
 234. — calves' feet oe ears 
 
 Can be dressed the same way, or fried in butter a la friture with 
 sauce or fried parsley. 
 
 235. — calves' feet. 
 
 They should be very clean, boil them three hours, or until they 
 are tender, serve them with parsley and butter. 
 
 236.— CALVES' FEET STEWED. 
 
 Wash them clean, divide without entirely separating them, lay 
 them open in the stewpan, and cover them with veal broth, rather 
 more than enough to cover them will be sufficient. Cut into pieces 
 a slice of tender beef, and add to the stew ; when it boils throw in 
 a little salt, clear the scum as it rises, throw in a faggot of parsley, 
 a small head of celery, an onion stuck with cloves, three small ones 
 plain, a good sized carrot, two blades of mace, and two dozen pepper- 
 corns. Stew until the flesh separates from the bones, and take it off 
 carefully, strain off half the gravy, or as much as you require, and 
 put in two spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, thicken it with flour and 
 butter. When it is very hot return the feet. Pour in a glass of 
 Madeira, Bucellas, or pale sherry, and serve. 
 
 237. — calves' feet fricaseed (pieds de veatj en fricasee). 
 
 Soak them three hours, simmer them in equal proportions of milk 
 and water, until they are sufficiently tender to remove the meat 
 from the bones, in good sized pieces. Dip them in yolk of egg, 
 cover with fine bread crumbs, pepper, and salt them ; fry a beautiful 
 brown, and serve in white sauce. 
 
 238. — calf's heaet. 
 Stuffed and roasted precisely as beef heart. 
 
 239. — calf's kidney 
 
 May be dressed as mutton or beef kidney, or mince it with some of 
 the fat, add cayenne, white pepper, and salt, cover it with bread 
 crumbs and with yolk of egg, make it up into balls and fry in boiling 
 fresh butter, drain them upon a sieve, and serve them upon fried 
 parsley. 
 
96 VEAL. 
 
 240. CALVES' BEAINS. 
 
 Wash them, remove the skin, and scald them. Dry them well, 
 fry them in butter, serve with mushroom sauce. Instead of this, 
 when cleaned and scalded, chop them finely, simmer them with 
 mushrooms, onions, parsley, sage, and white sauce. Season highly, 
 serve with fried parsley and fried sippets. 
 
 241. — calf's livek. 
 Lay the liver in vinegar for twelve hours, it will render it firm ; 
 dip it in cold spring water and wipe it dry, cut it in even slices, 
 sprinkle sweet herbs, crumbled finely, over it, add pepper and salt, 
 and dredge with flour, fry in boiling lard or butter, the last is 
 preferable ; remove the liver when fried a nice brown, pour away a 
 portion of the fat, and pour in a cupful of water with a lump of butter 
 well rolled in flour, in which a spoonful of vinegar and cayenne or 
 lemon juice has been stirred, boil it up, keeping it stirred all the 
 while, and serve the liver up in it ; thin slices of hot fried bacon 
 should be sent to table with it. 
 
 242 — calf's liveb and lights. 
 
 Parboil and mince, put them in a stewpan with a little of the water 
 in which they were boiled, thicken with butter and flour, add salt 
 and pepper, simmer, and serve when heated through. 
 
MUTTON. 97 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 MUTTON. 
 
 This is a delicate and a favourite meat, it is susceptible of many 
 modes of cooking, and should always be served very hot and with 
 very hot plates, except of course in cases where it may be sent to 
 table as a cold dish. It is a meat which requires care in the cooking, 
 which it will amply repay. The roasting parts are the better for 
 hanging some time, especially the haunch or saddle, but not for 
 boiling, as the colour is apt to be injured. One of the most favourite 
 dishes is the 
 
 243. HAUNCH OF MUTTON. 
 
 The haunch should be hung as long as possible without being 
 tainted, it should be washed with vinegar every day while hanging, 
 and dried thoroughly after each washing ; if the weather be muggy 
 rubbing with sugar will prevent its turning sour, if warm weather, 
 pepper and ground ginger rubbed over it will keep off the flies. 
 
 When ready for roasting paper the fat, commence roasting some 
 distance from the fire, baste with milk and water first, and then when 
 the fat begins dripping, change the dish and baste with its own 
 dripping, half an hour previous to its being done remove the paper 
 from the fat, place it closer to the fire, baste well, serve with currant 
 jelly. 
 
 244.— SADDLE OF MUTTON. 
 
 This joint like the haunch, gains much of its flavour from hanging 
 for some period, the skin should be taken off, but skewered on again 
 until within rather more than a quarter of an hour of its being done, 
 then let it be taken off, dredge the saddle with flour, baste well. The 
 kidneys may be removed or remain at pleasure, but the fat which is 
 found within the saddle should be removed previous to cooking. 
 
 245. — LEG OF MUTTON BOASTED. 
 
 Like the haunch and saddle should be hung before cooking, should 
 be slowly roasted and served with onion sauce or currant jelly. 
 
 246. BOAST LEG OF MUTTON. — ANOTHER RECEIPT. 
 
 Put the leg into an iron saucepan with enough cold water to cover 
 it, let it come to a boil gently, parboil it by simmering only ; have 
 
 H 
 
STOTTOIT. 
 
 the spit or jack ready, and take it from the hot water and put it to 
 the fire instantly ; it will take from an hour to an hour and a half if 
 large, and less time if small. 
 
 247. ROAST LEG OF MUTTON BONED AND STUFFED. 
 
 The principal skill required in accomplishing this dish is the 
 honing, this must be done with a very sharp knife, commence on the 
 underside of the joint, passing the knife under the skin until exactly 
 over the bone, then cut down to it, pass the knife round close to the 
 bone right up to the socket, then remove the large bone of the 
 thickest end of the leg, seeing the meat is clear of the bone; you 
 may then draw out the remaining bones easily. Put in the orifice a 
 highly seasoned forcemeat, fasten the knuckle end tightly over, replace 
 the bone at the base of the joint, and sew it in ; roast it in a cradle spit 
 or on a jack, if the latter let the knuckle end be down wards as it is 
 less likely to suffer the forcemeat to drop out. It must be well 
 basted, and should be sent to table with a good gravy. 
 
 248. LEG OF MUTTON BOILED 
 
 Should be first soaked for an hour and a half in salt and water, 
 care being taken that the water be not too salt, then wiped and 
 boiled in a floured cloth, the time necessary for boiling will d«|>emd 
 upon the weight ; two hours or two hours and a half should be about 
 thle time, it should be served with turnips mashed, potatoes, greens, 
 and caper sauce, or brown cucumber, or oyster sauce. 
 
 249. LEG OF MUTTON BRAISED. 
 
 Procure a leg of Welsh mutton or Scotch, they are small, of choice 
 flavour, and best fitted for braising, take off the knuckle neatly, 
 divide it into two or three pieces, trim the leg of all the superfluous 
 edges, and then half roast it, place it with the broken knuckle into a 
 stewpan, add the trimmings with half a dozen slices of rich fat bacon, 
 thyme, knotted marjoram, and other sweet herbs, an onion stuck with 
 cloves, and about half an ounce of butter rolled in flour ; stew the whole 
 gently, shaking it occasionally and turn it while stewing ; when it is 
 tender take it up, skim the gravy, strain, boil it fast until reduced to- 
 ft glaze, make a puree or soup of vegetables and place the muttoo 
 Upon it, cover the mutton with the glaze, and serve. 
 
 250. TO SEND A LEG OK MUTTON NEATLY TO TABLE WHICH HAS 
 
 BEEN CUT FOR A PREVIOUS MEAL. 
 
 Too much must not Lave been cut from the joint or it will 
 not answer the purpose. Bone it, cut the meat as a fillet, lay 
 forcemeat inside, roll it, and lay it in a stewpan with sufficient water 
 to cover it ; add various kinds of vegetables, onions, turnips, carrots, 
 parsley, &c, in small quantities; stew two hours, thicken the gravy, 
 serve the fillets with the vegetables round it. 
 
MOTTOX. 90" 
 
 251. — SHOULDER OF MUTTON 
 
 Must be well roasted and sent to table with skin a nice brown, 
 it is served with onion sauce. This is the plainest fashion, and for 
 small families the best. 
 
 252. LOIN OF MDTTOK STEWED. 
 
 Eemove the skin, bone it, and then roll it, put it in a stewpan with 
 a pint and a half of water, two dessert-spoonfuls of pyroligneous acid, 
 a piece of butter, sweet herbs, and an onion or two ; when it has 
 stewed nearly four hours strain the gravy, add two spoonfuls of red 
 wine, hot Up and serve with jelly sauce. 
 
 253. BREAST OF MUTtON 
 
 May be stewed in gravy until tender, bone it, score it, season well 
 with cayenne, black pepper, and salt, boil it, and while cooking skim 
 the fat from the gravy in which it has been stewed, slice a few 
 gherkins, and add with a desert spoonful of mushroom ketchup ; boil 
 it, and pour over the mutton when dished. 
 
 254. — BREAST OF MUTTON CRUMBED OR GRAT1N. 
 
 If one breast of mutton, cut off the chine bone down to the gristle, 
 if you have a stock-pot on put the breast of mutton into it, let it 
 feoil until tender, then take it up to cool ; have ready as for the 
 crumbed cutlets, adding in the butter and egg a little chopped 
 mushroom ; put it all over it with a paste brush, then put it on a 
 dish and put it in the oven to brown, the sauce will be under it 
 when dished. 
 
 255,-^NECK OF MUTTON. 
 
 This dish is most useful for broth, but may be made a pleasant 
 dish by judicious cooking. To send it to table merely boiled or baited 
 is to disgust the partaker of it. When it is cooked as a single dish, 
 first boil it slowly until nearly done, then having moistened a quantity 
 of hread crumbs and sweet herbs, chopped very fine, with the yolk of 
 an egg, let the mutton be covered with it, and "placed in a Dutch or 
 American oven before the fire, and served when nicely browned. The 
 breast may be cooked in the same manner, or the 
 
 256,-^STEAKS FROM A LOIN OF MUTTON 
 
 Are done in the same way, only trimming some of the fat off, and 
 cut thick and stew instead of frying them. 
 
 257. — MUTTON STEAKS. 
 
 The steaks are cut from the thick or fillet end of a leg of mutton, 
 and dressed as rump steaks. 
 
 H 2 
 
100 MUTTON. 
 
 258. MUTTON CHOPS BEOILED. 
 
 Cut from the best end of the loin, trim them nicely, removing fat 
 or skin, leaving only, enough of the former to make them palatable; 
 let the fire be very clear before placing the chops on the gridiron, 
 turn them frequently, taking care that the fork is not put into the 
 lean part of the chop ; season them with pepper and salt, spread a 
 little fresh butter over each chop when nearly done, and send them 
 to table upon very hot plates. 
 
 859. MUTTON CHOPS FRIED. 
 
 The fat in which the chops are to be fried should be boiling when 
 ' the chops are put into it. They should be pared of fat and well 
 trimmed before cooking, they should be turned frequently, and when 
 nicely browned they will be done ; of course if they are very thick 
 judgment must be exercised respecting the length of time they will 
 occupy in cooking. 
 
 ■ 260. CHOPS AS BEEF STEAKS. 
 
 Cut thick from a leg of mutton, and rub each steak with a. shalot ; 
 broil over a quick fire ; rub your dish with shalot ; when on the dish 
 pepper and salt it ; send it up quite hot. 
 
 261 . MUTTON " CUTLETS. 
 
 ' Loin chops make the best cutlets. Take off, the vertebrae •■ or 
 thickest end of each bone and about an inch off the top of the bone ; 
 put the chops into a stewpan in which has been previously melted a 
 little butter seasoned with salt; stew for a short time, but not. until 
 they are brown, as that appearance is accomplished in another 
 manner. Chop some parsley very fine, add a little thyme, mix it 
 with sufficient yolk of egg to coat the chops, which will have been 
 suffered to cool before this addition to them; then powder them with 
 bread crumbs over which a pinch of cayenne pepper has been 
 sprinkled ; broil them upon a gridiron over a clear but not a brisk 
 fire, when they are brown dish them ; lemon juice may be squeezed 
 over them, or the dish in which they are served may be garnished 
 with thin slices of lemon in halves and quarters. 
 
 262. — MUTTON CUTLETS. ANOTHER, WAY. 
 
 Not a very fat neck, take off the scrag and the breast bones, leaving 
 the remainder the length you intend the cutlets, then take the chine 
 kone clean off, then the skin and some of the fat; you will now have 
 the mutton free from bones to cut your cutlets, you will find you can 
 cut fourteen good cutlets from this trimmed neck without any hack- 
 ing ; beat each cutlet with your beater, trim them neatly, be sure to 
 cut out the pacwax, and leave a little fat to each cutlet. If for 
 gratin or bread crumbed, prepare some chopped parsley and 
 shalot, and bread crumbs, put some butter to melt in a stewpan, a little 
 
MUTTON. . 101 
 
 of the parsley and shalot and some yolk of egg, mix it well up 
 together; put your bread crumbs on a sheet of paper, add to it a little 
 salt and pepper ; dip each cutlet into melted butter, put down the 
 bread crumbs with your knife, lay them on a buttered saut6-pan until 
 wanted to fry. 
 
 268. CUTLETS SAUTE. 
 
 Cut your neck of mutton precisely as for the crumbed cutlets, 
 have ready a piece of butter melted in your saute-pau, dip each 
 cutlet both sides in the butter; when required fry them a very light 
 colour, pepper and salt them, when done take them up to drain from 
 the fat, have some good glaze melted, and glaze each cutlet both sides, 
 dish them round with or without a rim of mashed potato. 
 
 264. CUTLETS IN BUTTER. 
 
 Trim them as for former cutlets very neatly ; dip each cutlet in 
 butter and fry them ; dish them upon a napkin with fried parsley ; this 
 you may do with a previously dressed neck of mutton. 
 
 265. MUTTON CUTLETS MAINTENON. 
 
 Trim the cutlets as for former cutlets, half fry them, then cover 
 them with fine herbs and bread crumbs, and season with pepper and 
 salt. Lay all to cool ; have some fresh parsley to add to the already 
 fried herbs and shalot. When cool, spread the butter and herbs 
 thick upon each cutlet; sprinkle them with bread crumbs ; wrap 
 them in buttered foolscap paper, and broil them over a slow fire 
 until done. 
 
 266. BKAISED CUTLETS. 
 
 Trim your mutton from the bones as before, then put it whole into 
 a good braise, let it stew gently until tender, put it aside to. get 
 cold ; when so, cut your cutlets as thick as the former, trim them 
 neatly, make them hot and glaze them. 
 
 267. FILLET OF MUTTON. 
 
 Choose a very large leg, cut from four to five inches in thickness 
 from the large end of the leg, take out the bone, and in its place put 
 a highly savoury forcemeat, flour and roast it for two hours it will be 
 done ; it may be sent to table with the same accompaniments as a 
 fillet of veal, with melted butter poured over it, or a rich brown 
 gravy and red currant jelly. 
 
 268. FILLET OF MUTTON STEWED. 
 
 Cut and prepare stuff as above, flour and brown in a little butter, 
 and put it into a stewpan with a pint and a half of gravy ; with it a 
 small bundle of sweet herbs, two or three small onions, or eight or 
 
lOi MUTI'ON. 
 
 ten small button onions peeled,* tea-spoonful of whole black. pepper; 
 stew slowly three houra and a half. The fillet, may be salted, and 
 being half roasted may be stewed with its, teimanings. 
 
 269. — FILLETS IN MARINADE. 
 
 Out from the loins of mutton ; prepare some carrots, turnips, 
 onions, and celery, thyme, mace, cloves, and whole pepper, cut up in 
 thin slices ; boil a little vinegar and water, put your fillets in a deep 
 dish, pour the vinegar over the roots and mutton when cold, let it lay 
 all night; next day trim neatly and braise them, take them out, and 
 when required glaze them, sauce under them. 
 
 270. BLANQUETTE DE MOUTON 
 
 Is generally made from a former day's saddle of mutton ; cutting out 
 the fillets, trimming it neatly, you will be able to cut clearly pieces 
 the size of a shilling, which you will put into some good cooley 
 sauce, you may put two or three gherkins then into it; tb»i& dished 
 better i» a tin. 
 
 271. HARICOT MUTTON. 
 
 In this dish proceed as before in removing the bones, but leave 
 more fat on and cut each cutlet much thicker; fry them over a quick 
 fire to brown, twelve will make this dish ; put them into a proper 
 steed stewpan with a little good second stock, pepper and salt, a 
 little piece of sugar, cover it over and stew geustly over a slew fire, 
 when tender strata off sufficient stock for the sauce, for whisk roots 
 will be previously prepared, you will see among the sauoes. 
 
 272. HARICOT MUTTON. ANOTHER WAT. 
 
 Cut into chops the best end of the neck of mutton, fry them 
 a light brown, in fat made boiling hot before the ehops are put 
 into it, some pieces cut from the neck will be the best,, dredge 
 them with flour, sprinkle them with pepper and salt, put in a stew- 
 pan three parts of a pint of water, an onion stuck with clovm, p;rsley,' 
 a few spring onions, and a bay leaf, stew gently till the meat is nearly 
 done, then add turnips and carrots cut small,, fry a large onion cut in 
 slices brown, add it to the gravy, which when just done must be 
 thickened, take out the sweet herbs when the whole has stewed an 
 hour, and serve. 
 
 273.— HASH 
 
 Is made from former dressed mutton, leg or saddle, cut-in »ic©thiB 
 shaped pieces, and put into some good brown sauce. 
 
 274. — HASHED MUTTON. 
 
 Cut the, cold mutton into slices as uniform in size as possible, flour 
 hem, pepper and salt them, put them into a stewpan with some 
 
MUTTON. 103 
 
 gravy made of an onion stewed; with -whole pepper and toasted bread 
 in a pint of water, to which a little walnut ketchup has been added — 
 this gravy should be stewed two hours before using — do not let the 
 hash boil, when it is done add a little thickening of butter, flour and 
 water if rebuked, and serve up with sippets of toasted, bread. 
 
 275 HASHED MUTTON. 
 
 This is a favourite method of disposing of the cold shoulder; 
 especially -if it should happen to be underdone;- cut it into slices^, 
 take the bones (if of a shoulder or leg break them), and put them in 
 a stewpan with the trimmings, cover them with water, put in a faggot 
 of thyme, parsley, whole pepper, allspice, &c, cover down and simmer 
 for three quarters of an hour ; while the bones, &c. are stewing, fry 
 an onion brown in a little butter and flour,, put it into the stewpan 
 with the gravy, stew gently twenty minutes, strain it, lay in the 
 slices of mutton in the stewpan, pour over them the strained gravy,, 
 pour in a spoonful of walnut ketchup or any suitable preferred sauce, 
 season it, simmer until the meat is hot through,, dish and serve. 
 
 A spoonful of curry powder is sometimes added, and is always a 
 palatable addition. 
 
 276. — IRISH STEW. 
 . Cut a neck of mutton as for the haricot ; blanch the chops in 
 water, take and put them into another stewpan with four onions cut 
 in slices, put to it a little of your second stock, let it boil a quarter 
 of an hour; have ready some potatoes pared, put them into the stew- 
 pan with the mutton,, with salt and pepper ; as some like the potatoes 
 whole and some mashed as to thicken the stew, you must boil them, 
 accordingly, dish the meat round and the vegetables in the middle. 
 
 277. — CHINA CHILO. 
 
 Mince a pint basin of. undressed neck of mutton or leg, and some 
 of the fat ; put two onions, a lettuce, a. pint of green peas, a tea- 
 spoonful of pepper, four spoonfuls of water, and two or three ounces; 
 of clarified butter into a stewpan cfcsely covered ; simmer two hours,, 
 and serve in the middle of a. dish of boiled rice; if cayenne is 
 approved, add a little. 
 
 278. — CHINA CHILO. ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Chop very fine two small young lettuces, two onions, a pint of 
 {^:eea peas,, and a couple of young cucumbers, or the fourth of a pint 
 of roushisooms,. season with a tearspoonful of salt and half a tea- 
 spoomfel of pepper ;. mince the meat of a neck of mutton uncooked* 
 and mix it with the vegetables in a stewpan, add four table-spoonfuls 
 of water and two ounces of butter, clarified will be proved the best ; 
 let them well amalgamate over a slow fire, keep them stirred for 
 fifteen minutes, then cover down close and simmer very slowly for two 
 hours, serve it in the centre of boiled rice. 
 
104 MUTTON. 
 
 279.— MUTTON KEBOBBED. 
 
 Procure as lean a loin of mutton as you can, remove tlie fat and 
 skin, joint it well, chop some parsley with some sweet herbs very fine, 
 and beat it up with the yolk of an egg, add bread crumbs, cut the 
 loin into chops, and spread the bread crumbs and sweet herbs, &c. 
 well over each chop, put each chop in its former place, and tie with 
 tape so that the joint appears whole again, roast it before a quick fire, 
 baste it with fresh butter and its own gravy ; when it is done pour 
 into the dish in which it is to be served some rich brown gravy very 
 hot, lay in the mutton, pour gravy over it and send it to table as hot 
 as possible. Slices of beef may be cooked in the same manner. 
 
 280. — RISSOLES 
 
 Are from the most tender part of dressed mutton, free from skin 
 and gristle chopped very fine. You will find rissoles in another place 
 in the book. 
 
 281. — MUTTON LIKE VENISON. 
 
 A haunch or leg will be the most applicable. The joint should be 
 huug as long as it can be with safety, and dressed exactly like a 
 haunch of venison, and served with the same sauces, but to make the, 
 taste more perfectly resemble that of venison it should, after having 
 been hung to the turn, be skinned, and laid in a pan with vinegar and 
 water; two parts of the former to one of the latter, not enough to cover 
 it ; put in a faggot of herbs, a clove of garlic, one or two bay leaves, 
 a spoonful of whole pepper, and a couple of onions cut in slices ; let 
 it soak three days, dry it well, hang it for a day and roast as venison. 
 It may also be put into a stewpan with half a pint of gravy, and 
 simmered four hours, serve with venison sauce. 
 
 282. TO MAKE A SCOTCH HAGGIS. 
 
 Take the stomach of a sheep. The washing and cleaning is of mores 
 consequence than all, as it will be a bad colour and a bad taste if not 
 well cleansed ; when clean, turn it inside out, then let it lie for a day or 
 two in salt and water. Blanch the liver, lights, and heart of the sheep, 
 lay them in cold water, chop all very fine, the liver you had better 
 grate, chop a pound of the suet very fine, dry in the oven a pound of 
 oatmeal; mix all this well together, season with pepper and salt, a 
 little chopped parsley, and a little chopped onion ; then sew up the 
 bag ; before you finish sewing it, add a few spoonfuls of good white 
 stock ; ' put it in a stewpan with a drainer ; boil it in water, keeping 
 it well covered all the time, prick it all over with a small larding 
 pin to keep it from bursting ; it will take several hours to boil ; be 
 careful in taking it up, and let your dish be large enough. 
 
 283. EOGNON DE MOUTON A LA FRANgAISE. 
 
 The French have a faculty of making a dish recherchd out of mere 
 
MUTTON. 106 
 
 trifles, their receipt for serving up this little dish is no mean evidence 
 of their peculiar skill. Take half a dozen fine mutton kidneys, clear 
 them of fat and skin, and cut them into thin slices ; powder them 
 immediately with sweet herbs in fine powder, parsley which has been 
 chopped, dried, and powdered, cayenne, and salt ; put into a stewpan 
 two ounces of clarified butter or fresh if the former is hot in reach, 
 put in the slices of kidney, fry them, they will brown very quickly, 
 they must be done on both sides, dredge flour over them, moisten 
 with lemon juice, in five minutes the kidneys will be done ; lift them 
 out into a very hot dish around which are laid sippets fried ; pour 
 into the gravy two glasses of champaigne, give it a boil, pour it over 
 the kidneys, and serve. 
 
 It may here be stated that the French cooks vary constantly the 
 herbs which they employ according to any known preference for the 
 palate of those for whom they cook. Various kinds of wines and 
 sauces may be used for flavouring, and this is constantly done as 
 much for variety and the ability of giving a new name to a dish, 
 which is varied only in some such small feature. 
 
 284. — R0GN0N DE M0UT0N A LA B0UBGEOISIE. 
 
 Clear the kidneys from fat and skin, cut them into thin slices, 
 dredge them with flour and fry crisp, pepper and salt them ; flavour 
 some gravy with a little eschalot or garlic and serve. 
 
 285. LOTN OF MUTTON LIKE VENISON. FRENCH EECEIPT. 
 
 Remove the skin from the joint and bone it, and do it neatly ; lay 
 it in a stewpan with about a pint of weak broth, an onion stuck with 
 cloves, two glasses of red wine, and a tea-spoonful of pyroligneous 
 acid ; let it boil, put in a bundle of sweet herbs ; stew, turning 
 frequently ; add as it progresses a little gravy, some very good may 
 be made from the bones ; it will take from two hours and a half to 
 three hours. 
 
 286. TO DRESS MUTTON HAMS. 
 
 Soak the ham for five or six hours in cold spring water unless it 
 has only recently been cured, then one hour will suffice ; put it into 
 cold water, boil gently ; it will be done in two hours and a half. It 
 is eaten cold. 
 
 287. MUTTON KIDNEYS BE0ILED. 
 
 Skin and split without parting asunder, skewer them through the 
 outer edge and keep them flat, lay the opened sides first to the fire, 
 which should be clear and brisk, in four minutes turn them, sprinkle 
 with salt and cayenne, and when done, which will be in three minutes 
 afterwards, take them from the fire, put a piece of butter inside them, 
 squeeze some lemon juice over them, and serve as hot as possible. 
 
106 MUTTQH. 
 
 868.— sheep's tongues stewed. 
 Put them into cold water and let them boil, when they are suffi- 
 ciently tender to remove the skin easily, take them out, split them,, 
 and lay them in a stewpan with enough good gravy to cover them, 
 Chop parsley, and mushroom,, with a little eschalot finely, work % 
 lump of butter with it, add pepper and salt to flavour ; stew them in 
 the gravy until the tongues are tender, lay them in a dish„ strain the 
 gravy and pour it hot over the tongues, serve. 
 
 26 9. — IRISH STEW. 
 
 Take two or three pounds of the neck of mutton, cut it into ehojps, 
 pare three pounds of potatoes, cut them into thick slices, put them 
 into a stewpan with a quart of water, two or three carrots,, turnips: 
 or onions may be added, the last are seldom omitted, salt and pepper 
 the mutton when added to the gi'avy, let it boil or simmer gently 
 two- hours, and serve very hot ; its excellence much depends on the 
 last instructions being fulfilled. 
 
LAMB. 107 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 LAMB. 
 
 House lamb is in season, in December ; grass lamb comes in with 
 Easter. Both are favourite dishes, a preference perhaps existing for 
 the former. They are dressed much in the same manner. 
 
 290. FOBE-QUAETEB OK LAMB. 
 
 This is the favourite and indeed the best joint. Do not put it too 
 near the fire at first, when it gets -heated baste it well ; the fire 
 should be quick, clear, but not fierce ; the usual weight of a fore- 
 quarter is between nine and eleven pounds, it will take two hours ; 
 when it is done separate the shoulder from the ribs,, but before it is 
 quite taken off lay under a large lump of butter, squeeze a lemon, 
 and season with pepper and salt ; let it remain long enough to quite 
 melt the butter, then remove the shoulder and lay it on another 
 dish. 
 
 291. — SAKDLE OF LAMB. 
 
 This joint is now seen nearly as frequently at table as the fore- 
 quarter, and if well cooked is certainly fine eating. Roast it qubkly, 
 but be very careful neither to scorch it nor to take it from the fire 
 until it is done ; baste with the fat and gravy which fall from it, and 
 in an hour and three quarters it will be done, unless larger than 
 common, and then it will take two hours ; serve with mint and 
 encumber sauce. 
 
 292. — LAMB.— TO ROAST A LEG OF LAMB. 
 
 The rules laid down far roasting mutton must be scrupulously 
 observed with respect to lamb ; let it roast gradually, and commence 
 & distance from the fire, a leg of five pounds will take an hour and a 
 quarter, one of six pounds- will take- an hour and a half. 
 
 293.— TO BOIL A LEG OF LAMB. 
 
 Put it in sufficient clear cold soft water to cover it, let it remain 
 half an hour, a table-spoonful of vinegar or half a handful of salt 
 may be thrown in ; put it into a thin white cloth which has been 
 floured, and boil it. in enough water to cover it, a good sized bundle of 
 sweet herbs may be thrown into the saucepan ; if six pounds it. will 
 
108 LAMB. 
 
 be done in. an hour and a half, serve with spinach or French beans ; 
 if sent to table cold lay handsome sprigs of parsley about it tastefully ; 
 it may, while hot, be garnished with parsley, with thin slices of lemon 
 laid round the dish. 
 
 294. — LEG OF LAMB. 
 
 Take out the bone as in receipt No. 247, and a small portion of 
 he meat, so as to admit of more forcemeat; keep it of a good shape ; 
 put a ruffle on the knuckle, and glaze it well. 
 
 295. A SHOULDER OF LAMB 
 
 Will be found best cooked when done with the fore-quarter, but if 
 roasted singly will take an hour. . 
 
 296. — SHOULDER OF LAMB LARDED. 
 
 Cut your lardons small, of fine white fat bacon, cover them with 
 pounded mixed spices, cayenne pepper, and salt ; bone the shoulder 
 of lamb, lard the under side, roll the joint, and bind it with narrow 
 white tape ; braise it, and when done glaze it. Serve it on mush- 
 room sauce ; any sauce applicable to lamb will serve except mint- 
 sauce, which should not be eaten with this dish. 
 
 297. TO GRILL A LOIN OF LAMB. 
 
 Boil half an hour, take it out and score it like pork, brush it all 
 over with well beaten yolk of eggs, and powder over it bread crumbs 
 mixed with minced parsley, put it into an American oven and roast 
 it until brown; serve with melted butter and lemon pickle or 
 tomato sauce, the last especially, if cold. A shoulder and breast 
 may be dressed in the same manner. 
 
 298. SHOULDER OF LAMB FORCED AND BRAISED. 
 
 Take out the bone from the shoulder, you must be very particular 
 and careful in removing the blade bone that you do not cut a hole 
 through the skin; when you have done it fill up the vacancy with 
 some good veal forcemeat, cover it with fat bacon or ham ; then put 
 it into a good braise and let it boil gently for about an hour, when 
 required glaze it well ; you can make it after you have put in the 
 forcemeat and sewed up the cut part, either as a shoulder of lamb or 
 form into a swan by adding the shank bone for a neck, and form the 
 beak or bill with paste ; if plain put a paper ruffle or ornamented 
 silver skewer, the sauce as may be approved of, as peas, or spinach, 
 or puree, turnips, or French beans, or truffles, or mushrooms. 
 
 299. STEWED LOIN OF LAMB. 
 
 The loin may be stewed whole or in' steaks ; in the former the flap 
 being secured by a skewer, is put into a stew-pan, with a quarter of 
 
LAMB. 109 
 
 a pound of butter, and covered down close ; let it simmer one hour, 
 then turn it, let it simmer again for an hour and a quarter, and then 
 have ready some rich brown gravy hot, lift out the meat, pour the 
 gravy over it, and send it to table with mint sauce, a lettuce, and a 
 few radishes and spring onions. 
 
 300. — TO STEW A BREAST OF LAMB. 
 
 Cut it into pieces, pepper and salt well, stew in. sufficient gravy to 
 cover the meat until tender, then thicken the sauce, pour in a glass 
 of sherry; serve on a dish of stewed mushrooms. 
 
 301. CHEVADX-DE-FEISE LAMB. 
 
 Get two necks of lamb from the same lamb, take off the chine 
 bone not leaving a particle of bone adhering to the ribs, or it cannot 
 be carved clean down between the bones when at table ; blanch them 
 a few minutes, put them to cool, then scrape about one inch down 
 from the ends of the ribs between each bone, the skin, and fat ; then 
 put the bones to meet regularly, and put one between the other which 
 will form a chevaux-de-frise ; braise them the same as the former; 
 •when done glaze the fat and meat but not the white rib bones, any 
 of the sauces named or cucumbers. 
 
 302. CHEVAUX-DE-FRISE WITH LAMB SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Do the same as before ; when it is done and glazed have ready 
 some good lamb sweetbreads, about six larded ones and glazed, put 
 them on the top between the bones, when the two necks are put 
 together. 
 
 303. BLANQUETTE DAGNEAU A LA PROVENCALE. 
 
 Of the best end of the brisket take two or three pounds, cut it 
 into dice of four inches, rince them in clear water, wipe them with 
 a cloth, and flour them ; take two ounces of the fat of boiled bacon, 
 five of fresh butter, chop some parsley, and boil ten minutes ; put in 
 the lamb dice, cut. up an onion small, squeeze in the juice of half a 
 lemon, and season with pepper and salt ; let it simmer gradually for 
 two hours, beat up the yolk of three .eggs, and add them to the 
 gravy ; keep the pan moving above the fire for three minutes, dish 
 and serve. 
 
 304. — LAMB CHOPS. 
 
 Lamb chops and lamb cutlets are cooked in the same manner as 
 mutton chops and cutlets, but require more care in the cooking ; 
 they are sent to table with various garnishes, and arranged in many 
 forms, frequently accompanied with a puree of vegetables, or ranged 
 round a pyramid of mashed potatoes ; the most simple manner is to 
 garnish with crisped parsley. 
 
110 LAMB. 
 
 305.— SWEETBREADS 
 
 Should "be soaked in water, put for eight or ten minutes in boiling 
 water, and then into clear cold spring water, to blanch. They may 
 he cut in slices, or in dice, and put into fricasees of meat or ragouts, 
 or they may he served as a separate dish. 
 
 306. SWEETBREADS. ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Two good throat sweetbreads or three will make an entree; blanch 
 them until fit to eat, take them up and lay them in cold water; 
 when cold dry them well, egg and bread crumb them with or without 
 herbs, put them on a dish and brown them in the oven ; mushroom 
 sauce, or endives, or sorrel, or spinach, or tomato will do if approved of. 
 
 307. — SWEETBREADS FRICASEED.-'-WHITE. 
 
 Blanch, and then cut them in slices. To a pint of veal gravy put 
 a thickening of flour and butter, a table-spoonful of cream, half a, 
 tea-spoonful of mushroom powder, grated lemon peel and nutmeg, 
 and white pepper, to flavour. Stew ten minutes, add the sweetbreads, 
 let them simmer twenty minutes. Dish, add salt, thin pieces of 
 lemon peel ; mix up, and serve. 
 
 308. SWEETBREADS FRICASEED. BROWN. 
 
 Cut them in small pieces, flour, and fry them. When a good 
 hrown pour over them a pint of good beef gravy, highly seasoned; 
 stew gently, until the sweetbreads are tender. Add a little flour and 
 butter to thicken ; add truffles and mushroom ketchup to flavour, 
 morels or mushrooms may be substitued, or all may be cooked with 
 the sweetbreads. 
 
 309. — TO STEW SWEETBREADS.- — RIS DE VEATJ, 
 
 Make a force-meat of the tenderest parts of boiled or roast fowl, 
 some bacon, a little parsley chopped, a little thyme, lemon-peel, the 
 yolks of two eggs, cayenne pepper, and nutmeg. Lay the sweet- 
 breads in a pan, upon a layer of slices of veal, cover them with slices 
 of bacon, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion sliced, a little 
 mace, and pepper and salt. Pour in a quart of good broth, and stew 
 for two hours, remove them, and reduce by boiling the broth to a 
 fourth : heat the sweetbreads in it, garnish with lemon in slices. 
 
 310. — SWEETBREADS LARDED. — A LA DAtJBE. 
 
 Blanch and lard them with bacon, put them into a stewpan with a 
 pint of veal broth ; add a little browning, with the juice of half a 
 lemon. Stew until tender ; thicken the gravy with a little flour and 
 butter. Lay bunches of boiled celery round the dish when you 
 serve. 
 
LAMB. Ill 
 
 311. HEART AND LAMB SWEETBREADS LARDED WITH BACON 
 
 OR TRUFFLES. 
 
 The same quantity, either one larded and two plain, or two if fine 
 larded with bacon; when blanched for two or three minutes, put them 
 in a small dish or stewpan, with a little stock ; cover them over and boil 
 them either in the oven or over the fire for about twenty minutes ; 
 take them up and glaze them several times, keeping them hot ; lamb 
 sweetbreads will take eight for a dish, and require to be neatly 
 trimmed, cutting away the pipe, and dish them on a rim of forcemeat 
 or mashed potatoes, or spinach. 
 
 SI 2. —SWEETBREADS AS CUTLETS. 
 
 If you cannot get heart sweetbreads, you must use the throat. 
 Blanch them for about ten minutes, then put them to cool into cold 
 water ; take them out and dry them in a cloth, then cut long ways, 
 twelve or fourteen pieces for cutlets, making them a nice shape; if 
 you wish for them to be white saute cutlets, you must put some butter 
 or lard in your cutlet-pan, a juice of lemon, a little white pepper, 
 and salt; do not colour them, take them up and lay them upon 
 white paper to soak up the grease from them; dish them round upon 
 a tureen, pouring the sauce in the middle of them. 
 
 313. SWEETBREADS WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Blanch and trim off the pipes and skin from the under part ; then 
 take your small knife, and make a small incision slanting ways, and 
 lay in a small round piece of truffle until the sweetbread is covered ; 
 braise them for a short time, or do them in some good consomme, 
 and glaze them. 
 
 314. ROAST SWEETBREAD. 
 
 Boil sweetbreads, either heart or throat, trim them and dry them, 
 then egg and bread crumb them, brown them before the fire or in 
 the oven ; put good clear gravy under them, and water cresses, as a 
 garnish. 
 
 315. SWEETBREAD CUTLETS CRUMBED AU GRATIN. 
 
 Cut the sweetbreads as before a nice thickness, but not too thick; 
 dry them, then egg and bread crumb them as you would veal or 
 other cutlets ; use any sauce that may be preferred. 
 
 31 6. SWEETBREAD CUTLETS — GLAZED. 
 
 Do these as for the former saute cutlets, only glaze them a 
 bright colour. 
 
 317. LAMB'S HEAD AND EMINCEES. 
 
 "Wash well a lamb's head and pluck, take out the brains, blanch 
 them by themselves, boil the head and pluck for about a quarter of 
 
112 LAMB. 
 
 an hour, take it up to cool, take out the tongue, trim the two halves 
 of the head neatly, then score it, then egg and bread crumb them as 
 you -would cutlets and brown them in the oven or before the fire. Cut 
 up in small dice in equal quantities the tongue, liver, heart, and 
 lights ; fry in a stewpan a little chopped parsley, shalot, and 
 mushroom if you have it, to a nice light brown, dry up the butter 
 with flour, use some good second stock or brown sauce ; season with 
 lemon, cayenne pepper, salt, and a dust of sugar, put the emincees 
 under the head, the brains, egg, and bread crumb in four pieces and 
 put round. 
 
 318. SHEEP OR LAMBS' TROTTERS. 
 
 Get a. dozen or two of trotters, stew them for several hours, until 
 all the bones will come from them, save this liquor, do not break 
 the skin, stuff them with good quenelles or forcemeat ; return them 
 again into the same stock, boil, them about fifteen minutes, glaze 
 them; sobeise sauce or tomato sauce is good with them, or you may 
 fry them with butter. 
 
POKK. 113 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 PORK. 
 
 The proportion of persons who are fond of pork to those who dis- 
 like it are as a hundred to one, and yet it is falsely considered a 
 vulgar tastg, the passion for it possessed hy the Chinese has heen 
 illustrated hy many tales, and when in season the frequency of its 
 appearance upon a homely English table is no small proof of the esti- 
 mation in which it is held; it is like veal — indigestible, at least 
 chemists consider it so, though some medical men have asserted to 
 the contrary, it should at least be thoroughly cooked to place, if 
 possible, its digestibility beyond a doubt. In roasting, or in boiling, 
 ample time should be allowed for the joint. Pork is always salted 
 for boiling, and is much liked in this form. When sent to table 
 roasted, apple sauce should in every case accompany it. 
 
 As pork is so universally used in every family, and so little used 
 for company, it is useless to further comment upon it. 
 
 319. PORK. TO EOAST A SUCKING PIG. 
 
 A sucking pig should be dressed as soon after being killed as 
 practicable. When scalded and prepared for cooking, lay in the belly 
 a stuffing of bread, sage, and onions, pepper and salt, with a piece 
 of butter, sew it up, rub the skin of the pig with butter, skewer the 
 legs back, that while roasting, the inside as well as outside of the pig 
 may be thoroughly browned ; it must be put to a quick Are, but at 
 such a distance as to roast gradually, and a coating of flour should be 
 dredged over it that it may not blister, or it should not be left a 
 minute ; if floured, when the pig is done, scrape the flour off with a 
 wooden, or very blunt knife, and rub it with a buttered cloth, cut off 
 the head, and dividing it take out the brains, mix them with a little 
 gravy or bread sauce, divide the pig in half, from neck to tail, and 
 lay each inside flat upon the dish, so that the two edges of the back 
 touch ; place each half of the head with the outer side uppermost at 
 each end of the dish, and an ear on each side ; the gravy should be 
 poured in the dish hot, and the whole served as hot as possible ; as 
 a matter of convenience it is often sent to the baker's oven, a large 
 piece of butter should accompany it for the baker to baste it with, and 
 upon its return it should be cut and served as above. 
 
 The gravy may be heightened in its flavour by various additions, or 
 two or three sauces and gravies may be served with it, such as veal gravy 
 thickened and flavoured with wine, lemon juice, and cayenne, and also 
 bread sauce and a plain gravy ; this may be a matter of taste. 
 
 I 
 
114 PORK. 
 
 It is usual to procure the pig from the dealer ready prepared for 
 cooking, but in the event of its being required to scald it after killing, 
 we subjoin the following receipt. 
 
 320. TO SCALD A SUCKING PIG. 
 
 Plunge the pig into cold water the instant it is killed, let it remain 
 five minutes, have ready tpounded resin, and rub well with it over the 
 skin, plunge it into a tub of scalding water, letting it remain only 
 half a minute, remove it, and immediately take off the hair, lose no 
 time, if the hair should not cohie freely from some parts rub it again 
 with resin, and put it into the scalding water, and then remove the 
 hair, when it is all off wash it well with warm water, and then in 
 cold, changing the water several times that no flavour of the resin 
 may be retained ; cut off the feet at the first joint, .slit down the 
 belly, and remove the entrails, put aside the heart, liver, and lights, 
 with the feet, wash again inside and out the pig, dry it well, and keep 
 it from the air by covering it with a cloth. 
 
 321. — ROAST PIG. 
 
 Soak in milk some light bread, boil some sage and onions in 
 plenty of water, strain it off and chop it all very fine, press the milk 
 from the bread, and then mix the sage and onion with pepper and 
 salt, in the bread put the yolk of an egg to bind it a little, put this in 
 the inside of the pig, rub the pig over with milk and butter, paper it, 
 roast it a beautiful brown, cut off the head before it is drawn from 
 the spit, and likewise cut it down the back and then you will not 
 break the skin ; take out the spit, cut off the ears from the head, and 
 crack the bone and take out the brains, put them in a stewpan with 
 all the inside stuffing and a little brown sauce ; dish the pig, the 
 backs outside, and put the sauce in the middle, and some in a boat, 
 the ears at each end. 
 
 322. A LEG OF POKE BOASTED. 
 
 The pork should be young and dairy-fed, score the skin with a 
 sharp penknife, a little fresh butter is sometimes rubbed over the 
 sMn to make it brown and crisp without blistering. Chop some sage 
 that has "been scalded, very fine, add to it an onion parboiled, mix 
 bread crumbs and a small portion of apple chopped very fine, mix all 
 together, season with pepper and salt, make an incision, separating 
 the skin from the fat in the under and fillet end of the leg, and place 
 the stuffing there, the time of roasting will depend upon the size of 
 the leg, serve up with apple sauce. 
 
 323. A LEG OF POBK BOILED. 
 
 After having been salted it should be washed in clean cold water 
 and scraped thoroughly white and clean preparatory to cooMng ; it 
 should then be put into a floured cloth and into cold water on the 
 fire, when the rind is quite tender the pork will be done ; let the water, 
 
POEK. 115 
 
 be well skimmed, und serve with such vegetables as are in season ; 
 should the joint be large allow a quarter of an hour to eaoh pound, 
 with an additional twenty minutes from the time it boils. 
 
 324. — LOIN- OF PORK 
 
 Should, lite the leg, be scored before roasting, and well jointed to 
 make the chops separate easily, and then roast as a loin of mutton ; 
 or it may be put into enough water to cover it, simmer until it is 
 nearly done, then take.it out, take the skin off, coat it well with yolk 
 of egg and bread crumbs, roast for about a quarter of an hour, until 
 it is thoroughly done. 
 
 325. — A FILLET OF PORK TO RESEMBLE VEAL. 
 
 The fillet should be' cut from the leg of a very large pig, remove 
 the bone and fill the orifice with veal stuffing, roast it until it is more 
 than half done, then take some thin broth and put it in the stewpan, 
 put in the pork, stew until it is thoroughly done, then thicken the 
 gravy and send it to table with forcemeat balls and lemon cut in 
 slices. 
 
 326. — GRISKIN OF PORK. 
 
 Put it into a saucepan with enough water to cover it, when it has 
 boiled take it up, butter, and flour it, and put it before the fire to 
 brown, ten minutes will suffice. 
 
 327. — NECK OF PORK ROLLED. 
 
 Bone it, chop sage finely, mix it with well powdered bread crumbs, 
 cover the meat with it on both sides, roll the pork, fasten it securely, 
 and roast it gently. 
 
 A hand and spring are sometimes dressed thus. 
 
 328. — SPARE RIB OF PORK ROAST. 
 
 You must paper and joint this down the middle, and sprinkle it 
 with a little fine sage and salt, baste and flour it well ; apple sauce 
 in a boat. 
 
 329. — SPARE RIB. 
 
 A spare rib will take two hours and a half to roast unless very 
 large, and then three hours will be required to cook it thoroughly ; 
 while roasting baste with butter and dredge with flour, pound some 
 sage and powder the spare rib with it about twenty miuutes, before it 
 is done ; a pinch of salt may be added. 
 
 330. — CHINE OF PORK. 
 
 This joint is usually sent to tabla with turkey, it should be salted 
 for about sixty or seventy hours previous to cooking, and then be 
 
 I 2 
 
1 16 POEK. 
 
 roasted ; a chine boiled is as often sent to table as roasted, but the 
 jatter is usually preferred. 
 
 331. CHINE OF PORK. 
 
 Generally used at Christmas. This, -when properly cured, is 
 Siostly used cold ; boil it in a cloth, with a sauce of red cabbage, or 
 sauer kraut if cold ; garnish -with parsley. 
 
 332. ALL EOAST PORKS. 
 
 Be sure to cut the skin lengthways into small strips, not very 
 deep — to reach the meat ; send up apple sauce to all roast porks. 
 
 333. TO PICKLE POEK. 
 
 Dredge it with salt, pounded nearly as fine as flour, place*upon four 
 sticks crossed upon a dry cold flag-stone, or in an earthenware dish, 
 let it remain to drain from eighteen to twenty-four hours, then rub it 
 well in with a brine, consisting of one pound of salt, half a pound of 
 coarse brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and a quarter of an 
 ounce of salt prunel ; the last, if the pork is delicate, may be omitted. 
 If many pieces are being salted, put them into a tub, and pack them 
 closely, filling up the interstices with common salt, place a weight 
 upon the top to keep the meat down, as well as to prevent the 
 admittance of any air, and when taken out for cooking scrape off 
 the salt, wash the pork in several waters, or place it under a water 
 tap, letting the water run upon it two or three minutes, turning it 
 occasionally, or it may lie in soak half an hour ; it should be put to 
 boil in cold water, and when the rind is tender it will be done enough. 
 
 334. BOILED POEK — OF ALL KINDS, 
 
 The leg you must skin the same as ham, and dish its back 
 part upwards, and glaze it ; place a ruffle at the knuckle ; sauce, 
 sauer kraut, or stewed red cabbage ; pease pudding to all pork when 
 boiled. 
 
 335. — pig's cheeks — a half one. 
 
 Boil and trim in the shape of ham, and if very fat, carve it as a 
 ■cockle shell ; glaze it well, or put bread crumbs and brown them, 
 sauce as before. 
 
 336. PIGS FACE FOE BREAKFAST. 
 
 Cut the ears off and take out the tongue and brains, then lay them 
 In salt for two days, take them out of that, and then use the 
 ingredients as for tongues, and dry them the same as hams. 
 
 337. — PORK CUTLETS. 
 
 Cut from a neck, or what is called fore-loin of pork, the test end, 
 
POEK. 117 
 
 trim it as you do lamb or mutton, leaving a little fat ; scrape the 
 bone, rub or chop some sage fine, with a very little piece of shalot, 
 mix it up with only sufficient bread crumbs, put black pepper and 
 salt into the crumbs, herbs, dip each cutlet in clarified butter or 
 melted lard, press the crumbs well upon the cutlets, have a saute 
 pan greased with lard, lay them into it, fry them a nice light brown, 
 take them up and dry them on paper, dish upon mashed potatoes, 
 use sauce robert, or sobiese, or tomato, or any other as to palate. 
 
 338. — PORK CUTLETS. 
 
 Cut them from a small delicate loin of pork, bone, and trim them 
 neatly, fry them a light brown, put into a small stewpan a little 
 vinegar, and eschalot chopped very finely, two table-spoonfuls of 
 tomato sauce, and sufficient brown gravy to make it tasty ; stew the 
 cutlets in the sauce five minutes, and send them to table dished 
 handsomely; if the cutlets are broiled they may be dipped in yolk 
 of egg and bread crumbs, and broiled over a clear fire, and served 
 with tomato sauce, or sauce robert. 
 
 339. POEK CHOPS OR STEAKS. 
 
 Cut from the best end of the loin, or from the chump or leg if 
 steaks ; remove the fat and skin, turn them frequently and quickly 
 while broiling, if your gridiron be of the old fashion it is better to 
 keep it aslant on the fire, the handle being the lowest part it prevents 
 very much of the fat from falling into the fire, the flare of which is 
 apt to impart a disagreeable flavour to the chops ; this observation 
 applies also to mutton chops, and will be found useful if followed : 
 sprinkle them with salt when nearly done, and rub with a little fresh 
 butter previous to serving, if for a side dish garnish with crisped 
 parsley. 
 
 340. POEK SAUSAGES. 
 
 There are many receipts for the mailing of pork sausages ; several 
 counties have their own peculiar receipts ; Epping, in Essex/famed for 
 its butter, is also famed for its sausages ; Lewes, in Sussex, and Cam- 
 bridge, also have a name for the manufacture of the same article. The 
 peculiarity in their sausages being the quantity and variety of herbs 
 which they introduce, the prevalence of some particular one giving 
 the flavour, as well as the peculiarity to each. The presence of so 
 many herbs is, however, not always considered an agreeable feature, 
 and many palates are offended at that which forms to others the 
 great merit. The following is a very simple receipt. 
 
 Take of the fat of pork one pound, that of the loin of a large 
 richly fed pig,, or the inward fat of a small one. Chop it finely with 
 half a pound of lean pork ; add to it four or five sage leaves finely 
 chopped, some lemon thyme in a small quantity, and three dessert- 
 
118 
 
 POKE. 
 
 spoonfuls of crumb of bread powdered ,- be careful not to put too 
 much of the latter, as it tends to turn the sausages' sour if kept. 
 Amalgamate these ingredients well, dust on grated! nutmeg, mace, 
 and cloves in powder, and finish with black pepper and' salt, being 
 sure to season well; the meat may then be put into "the skins, or may 
 he put in jars covered down from the air, to be used for rolls or stuff- 
 ing, or any required purpose. 
 
 All skin must be pared from the fat before chopping, and eveiy 
 sinew removed from the lean pork, as well as any bone, or anything 
 which may impair the taste when eaten. 
 
 341. THE TJNIVEESITY BECEIPT FOB. POKK SA.USASES. 
 
 To a couple of pounds of lean pork young, white, and delicate, 
 put three quarters of a pound of minced beef suet, the pork must 
 first be chopped very fine ; add three dessert-spoonfuls of bread 
 which has been dipped in Port wine, dried and grated fine ; work 
 it together with the yolks of three eggs smoothly beaten : season it 
 with pepper and salt, and dried sage ; a very little Cayenne may be 
 introduced, and a very small piece of. garlic. Work the whole well 
 together in a mortar until it forms a paste ; it may then be put into 
 wide skins, or pressed down into jars for future use. It is cut into 
 square pieces, dredged with flour, fried in fresh butter, and sent to 
 table on. a toast as a hreakfast. dish. 
 
 343. — satjoisses A l'espasnoxe. 
 
 Cut into chops the loin of a good sized pig, bone it, and cut the 
 meat into dice, keeping the fat and lean separate, three quarters of 
 an inch square. Chop two corns of garlic fine, add to it black 
 pepper, Spanish pepper, and salt ; mix it well together, and season 
 the meat with it : pour over it half a pint of an acid wine, and when 
 it has been drawn in by the meat, add more, until the expira- 
 tion of a week ; then lay the meat in skins, alternately fat and lean, 
 and if any moisture appears to be required give it a little more wine. 
 Twist the skin, and tie it in the lengths you require, and keep them 
 in a cool dry place. They may be boiled,, fried, broiled, grilled, 
 toasted, served with poultry or veal, or may be eaten with bread 
 alone. 
 
 343. PORK SAUSAGES. 
 
 Chop, particularly fine, about two or three pounds of lean pork, 
 and an equal quantity of fat ; have ready some sage, either dry or 
 green, either passed through a sieve or chopped very fine, a small 
 piece of shalot, a few grains of ground cloves, season it with pepper 
 and salt, mix a few fine bread crumbs up with it, have your skins 
 ready cleaned, then fill them, or if preferred roll into balls and fry 
 them, you will tie them the length you wish the sausages to be, 
 
EORK. 119 
 
 prick the skins with. a. fork before you fry them, you may do them in 
 the oven. if. it should be hot. 
 
 344. — ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Chop the pork as before, only add half the quantity of lean veal,, a 
 pound of suet chopped equally fine, have ready a French roll soaked 
 in milk but no crust, season it well with pepper and salt, mix it all 
 well together. 
 
 345. A DIFFERENT TO A DIFFERENT PALATE. 
 
 Chop pork as before, and an equal quantity of fat, and the quan- 
 tity of lean veal, and the same of suet, and two or three handfuls of 
 fine bread crumbs, have ready a few sage leaves, a few of knotted 
 marjoram and one sha'ot ; pound all well together, season with 
 white pepper and salt, either put them in skins or roll them and fry 
 them as above. 
 
 346. SPICED SAUSAGES. 
 
 Hub well into a piece of pcwk some saltpetre, allspice, and black 
 pepper, let it lie several days, rubbing it each day, then chop it 
 small, and add to it two shalots chopped fine, have ready cleaned 
 well an ox-gut, fill it with this meat quite tight, tie both ends firm, 
 let it be smoked as hams, wrap it in a thin cloth, then let it be well 
 dried, you may tie it into what lengths you please before smoking ; 
 this will eat hot or cold. 
 
 347. WHITE SAUSAGES. 
 
 Have ready some well-dried oatmeal, two or three onions to boil 
 in milk, chop them very fine, chop two pounds of suet very fine, 
 mix about a pint of oatmeal to the suet, add the onions, season all 
 with pepper and salt, rather predominant with pepper and onions, 
 filling the skins as for former sausages, if approved of add a few 
 currants and boiled rice in milk to them. 
 
 You may make sausages of any dressed meats, either chicken or 
 labbits ; chop up the meat very fine, adding onions and seasonings 
 as in the former, adding chopped parsley and a few grains of 
 pounded mace, add some bacon chopped instead of suet, mix all 
 together with two yolks of eggs, a few bread crumbs and a few drops 
 of lemon-juice ; fill this in the skins as before, and broil or fry them. 
 
 348. SAUCISSES AUX CHATAIGNES. 
 
 STEWED SAUSAGE MEAT, WITH CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Take twenty oe thirty sound chestnuts, roast them over a slow fire, 
 and when sufficiently roasted to remove the husk take them off, peel 
 them, removing the inner skin as well as the husk, and put them 
 aside sufficiently near the fire not to , cool too readily. Cut into 
 
120 POBK. 
 
 diamonds half a dozen thin slices of sausage meat, and fry them 
 brown in a little fresh butter. When they are a good colour, take them 
 out, and pour three parts of the butter in which they have been fried 
 into a small well-tinned or earthenware saucepan. Thicken it while 
 heating with a spoonful of flour, and pour in gradually a pint of 
 good gravy, with a glass of old brown sherry, or two of Madeira. 
 Put in a faggot of herbs, and season to palate, a little cayenne may 
 accompany the common pepper. As soon as it boils lay the sausage 
 cakes round the saucepan close to the sides, leaving the centre clear, 
 and in this space put the chestnuts. Let them stew slowly three 
 quarters of an hour; then dish them, arranging the sausage meat 
 and chestnuts in the same manner as in the stewpan; pour the gravy 
 over them, removing the faggot of herbs first and serve. 
 
 349. TO COLLAR A PIG's HEAD. 
 
 Clean thoroughly, and put it in pickle for a week, boil it tender, 
 then take out the bones carefully, turn the upper part of one cheek 
 to the snout of the other cheek, season them with pepper and salt, 
 roll it lightly in a cloth, and secure it, then boil until it is very tender, 
 do not remove the cloth when done but place it upon an earthenware 
 dish, lay a heavy weight upon it, and unbind when cold ; if the cheek 
 is a large and fat one, it will be improved by laying a slice or two of 
 lean pork, or ham between the cheeks before binding them in the 
 cloth. 
 
 350. — pig's head baked. 
 
 Let it be divided and thoroughly cleaned ; take out the brains, 
 trim the snout and ears, bake it an hour and a half, wash the brains 
 thoroughly, blanch them, beat them up with an egg, pepper and salt, 
 and some finely chopped or pounded sage, and a small piece of butter, 
 fry them or brown them before the fire ; serve with the head. 
 
 351. — pig's head boiled. 
 
 This is the more profitable dish though not so pleasant to the 
 palate, it should first be salted, which is usually done by the pork 
 butcher, it should be boiled an hour and a quarter, it must boil gently 
 or the meat will be hard ; serve with vegetables. 
 
 352. — PETTITOES. 
 
 Put them in just sufficient water to cover them, add the heart and 
 liver, boil them ten minutes, take out the liver and heart, and mince 
 them small, and return them to the feet, stew until quite tender, 
 thicken with flour and butter, season with pepper and salt, serve up 
 with sippets of plain bread, or toasted bread ; make a pyramid of the 
 minced heart and liver, and lay the feet round them. 
 
 When pettitoes are fried, they should be first boiled, then dipped 
 in butter, and fried a light brown. 
 
PORK. 121 
 
 353 — pigs' feet stewed. 
 
 Clean, split, and boil tender, put them into a stewpan with enough 
 gravy to cover them, an onion sliced, a few sage leaves, whole black 
 pepper, allspice, and salt, stew forty minutes, strain off the gravy, 
 thicken with flour and butter, add two spoonfuls of vinegar or one 
 dessert-spoonful of lemon pickle ; serve it up with the feet. 
 
 354. — pigs' feet and ears fried. 
 
 They must be well cleaned, and boiled until tender, and laid in 
 vinegar and water, with salt in it, until they are required for use ; 
 to prepare them for cooking, cut the feet in two, slice the ears, dip 
 them in butter, dredge with flour, fry a nice colour, and serve with 
 melted butter and lemon pickle. 
 
 355. — pigs' harslet 
 
 Is made with the liver and sweetbreads, which must be well cleaned, 
 add to them pieces of pork both fat and lean, chop finely sage and 
 onions, season with pepper and salt, and mix with the preceding ; 
 put them in a cowl, tie it closely, and roast, It may also be baked. 
 Serve with a sauce of port wine and water and mustard, just boiled 
 up, and put it into the dish. 
 
 356. — COCHON DE LAIT EN BLANQUETTE. — ENTREE,- 
 
 Dress this the same as Blanquette de Veau. 
 
 357. WHITE PUDDINGS 
 
 Are made with beef suet and oatmeal, flavoured and seasoned. 
 Take a pound and a half of beef suet, chop it very fine, and, 
 having boiled a pound of oatmeal tightly wedged down in a small 
 white basin closely covered with a cloth for five hours, scrape it into 
 powder, "and mix it with the suet, two small onions boiled and chopped 
 fine, and season well with white pepper and salt, a small quantity of 
 thyme and marjorum may be added at pleasure. Boil them an hour. 
 Like all sausages they must be pricked while cooking, to suffer the 
 hot air generated to escape, or they will burst. 
 
 358. BLACK PUDDINGS. 
 
 Stir three quarts of sheep's blood with one spoonful of salt till cold, 
 boil a quart of Embden grits in sufficient water to swell them, drain, and 
 add them to the blood with a pound of suet, a little pounded nutmeg, 
 some mace, cloves, and allspice, a pound of the hog's fat cut small, 
 some parsley finely minced, sage, sweet herbs, a pint of bread crumbs, 
 salt, and pepper ; mix these ingredients well together, put them into 
 well cleaned skins, tie them in links, and prick the skins, that while 
 boiling they may not burst. Let them boil twenty minutes, and 
 cover them with clean straw until they are cold. 
 
12'2: POKE, 
 
 359. — BtiAGE AM* WHITE PUDDINGS. 
 
 Procure the pig's blood, then add half a pound of half-boiled rice, 
 set it to cool keeping it stirred, add a little more rice boiled in milk,; 
 add it to the blood, cut up about, one pound of fat pork into large- 
 dice, melt half a pound of lard and pour into the blood and rice,, 
 then add your fat, with a few bread crumbs, three shalots, a little) 
 parsley, some black pepper, cayenne pepper, and salt, mix all well 
 together, then fill into skins as before ; tie them the length you wish 
 them, then boil them a quarter of an hour, take them out and lay 
 them on some new clean straw until cold, then give them another 
 boil for a few minutes, then turn them as before until wanted,, put 
 them in the oven when you require them, or fry taem or broil them. 
 
 360. — LARD. — TO MELT LARD. 
 
 Take the inner fat of a newly killed pig and strip off the skin 
 completely and carefully, slice it and put it into ajar, a sprig of rose- 
 mary may be placed with it, and set the jar in a pan of boiling water; 
 let it melt, and when perfectly fluid' pour it into dry clean jars, and 
 cover them closely ; it may be- kept some time in a dry place, and 
 ■when used may be mixed with butter for pastry, for frying fish, and 
 many other purposes in cooking. 
 
 361. — HAMS. — BOILED HAM. 
 
 Hams which come from the large cheesemongers have usually been 
 long hung and are very dirty; if such should be the case the ham 
 should be soaked about twelve hours, then wrapped in a clean cloth, 
 and laid upon stone flags for two days, the cloth being kept moistened 
 with clean soft water, this will render it tender when.cooked, let it be 
 thoroughly scraped and cleaned,, and placed in the copper, which in 
 small families will be found the most convenient mode of cooking it ; 
 they should be put in sufficient water to cover them, which water, 
 when the ham is cooked, will be found of the greatest service in 
 making stock for soups; the time it will require to boil will depend 
 upon the weight of the ham, a small one three hours and a half, 
 ■which may progress according to the weight to six hours, when it is 
 done remove the skin if possible without breaking it, it prevents the 
 ham when cold becoming dry ; spread over the ham bread raspings, 
 the dish should be garnished with sliced boiled carrots. 
 
 362. TO CUBE HAMS. 
 
 In Loudon this is aknowledg& scarcely required, hams are brought 
 thither in such vast, numbers that it is scarcely worth the trouble, to 
 cure them, the more especially as the. hams are generally cured with 
 considerable skill and with advantages not possessed by ai private 
 family. As, however, in many families it is preferred to cure at home-, 
 and as in many parts of the country, where this work, it is hoped, 
 will find its way, it becomes almost a matter of »ecessity„we subjoin 
 the following receipt. 
 
POKE. 123 
 
 Place the ham in a- deep pwn, cover it -with treacle', and rub it well 
 with it for three days ; then- wis. together in a mortar one pound of 
 common salt, half the quantity of bay salt, an ounce, of black pepper, 
 and three, ounces of saltpetre, these quantities have been found to 
 answer most successfully ; beat them well together, and rub well 
 into the ham-,, aontinue this for a month, turning and rubbing every 
 day, then, drain the pickle from the bam, allowing it after being 
 removed from the pan about sixty hours to drain effectually,, it may 
 then be washed with a, little white: vinegar and hung up to dry. 
 
 363, — TO CURE HAMS. 
 
 Pound some bay salt, saltpetre, and common salt, and some coarse 
 brawn sugar, mix it all well together, then put it all to get hot, and 
 ■while hot rub the hams well with this, repeating it every morning 
 for a week, let them lie in the brine for another week, until all well 
 incorporated in the meat; then take them out to drain on dishes, 
 flour them and hang them up to dry ; you must be guided a good 
 deal by the size of the hams. 
 
 3ff4. — TONGUES. 
 
 You will first lay in salt, first then use the same hot preparations 
 daily, about ten days will do for the toDgues ; sheep's tongues_may 
 be done the same, but less time. 
 
 365.. ANOTHEB KECEIPT TO CUKE HAM.. 
 
 Let the ham hang for three days, sprinkle it well during the time 
 with salt. Make a pickle of eight ounces of bay salt, an equal 
 quantity of common salt, two ounces of saltpetre, the same of black 
 pepper, half a pound of common brown sugar, and a quart of beer ; 
 boil it, pour hot upon the ham, turn it every day in the pickle for 
 three weeks, wipe it as dry as possible, and bury it in bran. Smoke 
 it for a month over wood smoke ; it must be sewn in a coarse strong 
 wrapper. 
 
 366. — TO BAKE. A HA1T. 
 
 Put the ham in soak previous to dressing it ; if an old one two 
 hours will be required, but if not very old, an hour will suffice. 
 Wipe it very dry, and cover it with a paste about an inch in thick- 
 ness. The. edges being first moistened must be drawn together, and 
 made to adhere, or the gravy will escape. Bake it in a regular, well- 
 heated, oven, it will take from three to six hours, according to its 
 weight.;, when done remove the paste, and then the skin. This must 
 be done while the ham is hot. If well baked and not too salt, it 
 will prove of finer flavour than if boiled. 
 
124 PORK. 
 
 367. TO BBA1SE A HAM IN THE FEENCH FASHION, 
 
 It is prepared for cooking in the same manner as in the preceding 
 receipt, but when cleaned it is placed upon a layer of new hay, which 
 has previously been laid evenly upon a clean white cloth, which 
 should also be thin, that the flavour of the braise may be imparted. 
 It is then placed in a stewpan, with two parts water to one part via 
 ordinaire, or any light white wine, and suffered to come to a boil. 
 The scum must be removed, and then vegetables added, four carrots, 
 three onions, a faggot of herbs, and, if approved, a little corn of 
 garlic, perhaps less of that powerfully flavoured root. Simmer from 
 three hours and a half to six, according to the weight ; when tender 
 it is enough. The skin should then be stripped off carefully, and 
 bread raspings strewed over it. Powdered herbs, or parsley chopped 
 very fine, are sometimes mixed with the raspings, but taste must 
 regulate its admission or omission. 
 
 368. TO BBAISE A HAM. 
 
 Put the ham into water the night previous to cooking, and next 
 day wash it in warm water, trim it by cutting away all the yellow fat 
 and rusty parts ; take off the knuckle, and pare down all the under 
 part ; put it in a stewpan, and just cover it with water ; lay in a slice 
 of beef cut into pieces, a few onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, three 
 small carrots, and a little allspice ; simmer from three to six hours, 
 it must depend entirely upon the size and weight. Take out the 
 ham, and skin it ; glaze, and serve it upon a puree of vegetables. 
 The braise may be made into a rich brown soup, thickened and 
 flavoured with wine, it may serve also for the flavouring of soups. 
 
 369. — HAM BASHEES, OK SLICES 
 
 May be toasted, broiled, or fried. May be served with spinach 
 and poached eggs, boiled green peas. Stewed with green peas, or 
 cut in thin slices, divided in four pieces, each piece rolled and fas- 
 tened with a skewer, roasted in a Dutch oven, and served with peas. 
 They should in all cases be cut an even thickness, v and cooked 
 without injuring the colour. Bacon may be dressed in the same 
 variety. 
 
 370. TO CUBE BACON. COBBETT's KECEIPT. 
 
 The two sides that remain, and which are called flitches, are to be 
 cured for bacon. They are first rubbed with salt on their insides, or 
 flesh sides, then placed one on the other, the flesh sides uppermost, 
 in a salting trough which has a gutter round its edges to drain away 
 the brine, for to have sweet and fine bacon the flitches must not be 
 sopping in brine, which gives it the sort of taste that barrel pork and 
 sea pork have, and than which nothing is more villanous ; every one 
 knows how different is the taste of fresh dry salt from that of salt in 
 a dissolved state, therefore change the salt often, once in four or five 
 
POKK. 125 
 
 days ; let it melt and sink in, but let it not lie too long ; change the 
 flitches, put that at bottom which was first on the top, do this a couple 
 of times ; this mode will cost you a great deal more in salt than the 
 sopping mode, but without it your bacon will not be so sweet and fine, 
 nor keep so well. As for the time required in making your flitches 
 sufficiently salt, it depends on circumstances, the thickness of the 
 flitch, the state of the weather, the place wherein the salting is going 
 on ; it takes a longer time for a thick than a thin fliteh ; it takes 
 longer in dry than in damp weather ; it takes longer in a dry than in 
 a damp place ; but for the flitches of a hog of five score, in weather 
 not very dry or damp, about six weeks may do ; and as yours is to be 
 fat, which receives little injury from over salting, give time enough, 
 for you are to have bacon until Christmas comes again. 
 
 The place for salting should, like a dairy, always be cool, but always 
 admit of a free circulation of air ; confined air, though cool, will taint 
 meat sooner than the mid-day sun accompanied by a breeze. With 
 regard to smoking the bacon, two precautions are necessary : first, to 
 hang the flitches where no rain comes down upon them, and next, 
 that the smoke must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, nor coal. As 
 to the time it requires to smoke a flitch, it must depend a good deal 
 upon whether there be a constant fire beneath, and whether the fire 
 be large or small ; a month will do if the fire be pretty constant, and 
 rich as a farm-house fire usually is ; but over smoking, or rather too 
 long hanging in the air, makes the bacon rust ; great attention should 
 therefore be paid to this matter. The flitch ought not to be dried up 
 to the hardness of a board, and yet it ought to be perfectly dry; before 
 you hang it up lay it on the floor, scatter the flesh side pretty thickly 
 over with bran, or with some fine sawdust, not of deal or fir; rub it 
 on the flesh, or pat it well down upon it, this keeps the smoke from 
 getting into the little openings, and makes a sort of crust to be dried 
 on. 
 
 " To keep the bacon sweet and good, and free from hoppers, sift 
 fine some clean and Avy'wood ashes. Put some at the bottom of a 
 box or chest, long enough to hold a flitch of bacon. Lay in one 
 flitch, and then put in more ashes, then another flitch, and cover this 
 with six or eight inches of the ashes. The place where the box or 
 chest is kept ought to be dry, and should the ashes become damp, 
 they should be put in the fire-place to dry, and when cold put back 
 again. With these precautions, the bacon will be as good at the end 
 of the year, as on the first day." 
 
 It may be as well to observe in reference to the above receipt, 
 given by the very celebrated William Cobbett in his Cottage Economy, 
 that most counties in England have their peculiar method of curing 
 hams and bacon, each varying in some slight degree from the other, 
 and, of course, each is considered orthodox. But for simple general 
 rules, the above may be safely taken as a guide ; and those who 
 implicitly follow the directions given will possess at the expiration of 
 from six weeks to two months well flavoured and well cured bacon. 
 
126 
 
 POEK. 
 
 371. TO CURE BACON FOB LARDING. 
 
 It is of little use preparing a small piece of bacon for larding, for 
 different joints require landings of different lengths, a piece of beef, 
 for example, will, if of a tolerable size, require very lengthy lardings, 
 as a fowl will require but small ones. Ten to twenty pounds should 
 at least be prepared ; take fifteen pounds, and the fatter it is the 
 better, rub it well with a pound and a half of pounded common salt, 
 if in one piece lay it upon a board with another over it, if in more than 
 one piece let each piece have a board with a weight at the top, keep 
 it in a cool place four or five weeks, hang it to dry but not to be 
 smoked. 
 
 372. TO BOIL BACON. 
 
 If very salt, soak it in soft water two hours before cooking. Put 
 it into a saucepan with plenty of water, and let it boil gently ; if 
 two or three pounds, it will take from an hour to an hour and a 
 quarter ; if larger, an hour and forty minutes will suffice. If a fine 
 piece of the gammon of bacon, it may when done have the skin, as 
 in hams, stripped off, and have finely powdered bread raspings 
 strewed over it. It will improve the appearance when sent to 
 table. 
 
 373. BACON, TO BBOIL. 
 
 Make up a sheet of paper in the shape of a drippingpan, cut your 
 bacon into thin slices, cut off the rind, lay the bacon on the paper, 
 put it over the gridiron, set it over a slow fire, and it will broil 
 clearly. 
 
 374 . — BACON, TO MAKE. 
 
 Rub the bacon with a little common salt, and let them lie till the 
 brine runs from them ; in a week rub off all the salt and put them 
 in a tub, then rub into the flitches a pound of saltpetre pounded and 
 heated, the next day do the same with common salt, also heated, let 
 them lie a week, often rubbing them, do the same for three weeks or 
 a month, at the end of that time dry and hang them up for use. 
 
 375. BACON AND CABBAGE. 
 
 Boil some fine streaked part of bacon with a little stock, and the 
 ends of eight or ten sausages, boil in the same stock some white 
 cabbages for two hours, add salt and spice and serve very hot, 
 place your sausages and cabbage round your dish, and the bacon in 
 the middle. 
 
 376. BACON AND EGGS. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, cut it into thin 
 slices, and put them into a stewpan over a slow fire, take care to 
 turn them frequently, then pour the melted fat of the bacon into a 
 dish, break over it seven or eight eggs, add two spoonfuls of gravy, 
 
PORK. 127 
 
 and a little salt and pepper, and stew the whole over a slow fire, 
 pass a salamander over it and serve. 
 
 377. BACON FRAZB. 
 
 Beat eight eggs into a batter, a little cream and flour, fry some 
 thin slices of bacon and dip them in it, lay the bacon in a fryingpan, 
 pour the batter over them, when one side is fried turn and pour 
 more batter over them, when both sides are of a good colour lay 
 them on a dish and serve hot. 
 
 378. — BACON GAMMON, TO BAKE. 
 
 Take a gammon of bacon, lay it to soak all night, scrape it clean 
 and stuff it vwMhrthyme, sage, savoury, sweet morjoram, penny-royal, 
 strawberry- leaner, violet-toawes, and fennel ; chop these and mix 
 them with the yiJlks of hard eggs, pepper, and nutmeg, boiled till 
 tender ; when it is cold paretfihe under afle, pull off the skin, season 
 it with pepper amd nutmeg, and put it in a paste, and bake with 
 whole cloves and slices of raw bacon laid over it, and butter. 
 
 ST®., BACON TOAKE. 
 
 Chit some than»licesrfll!»iB»a, about two <ot &ree inches long, cut 
 some streaked bacon in small pieces, dip them into a raw egg beaten 
 mp wirSi shred "parsley, igneem anions, shalote, and {pepper, fry over a 
 , and serve with clear sauce and a little vinegar in it. 
 
 380. — 5BAC0JI SPOStST. 
 
 CSntf off the ends of a stale Fxemdh brick, and land the middle «stf 5t 
 with streaked bacon, then, with a -very sharp iajH^, «Ot tfbe lorf in 
 slices, about a quarter of an inch itfmick, diijp Asm Aa«igg8, and fry 
 gently in a very hot pan till of a good ujriteux ; sense 'wifli a 'little 
 clear sauce and a little vinegar and pepper. 
 
128 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 Always have good and fat poultry where possible, in the country 
 you may command it. The best sort for table is the Dorking breed, 
 they are five toed, have white legs, and feathers of a greyish^wiiite 
 colour. 
 
 About three weeks before you want to use them, six or twelve 
 fowls, according to your consumption, should be put into the coop, 
 and as you kill one or more replace them to keep up the stock ; for 
 the first week feed them alternate days with boiled rice and soaked, 
 bread and milk, the remainder of the time mix barley meal with,* 
 the skimmings of your stockpot and a spoonful of moist sugar, the 
 windows of your poultry house must be darkened. 
 
 Fowls should be carefully drawn, so that the gall bladder is 
 uninjured, and should only be done through the vent. 
 
 Roast with a brisk and clear fire. A capon will take five-and- 
 thirty minutes, smaller fowls a less time in proportion. A turkey of 
 
POULTRY. 129 
 
 fourteen pounds will take . two hours ; the time will increase or 
 decrease with the weight. The same rule applies to geese, a large 
 one will take an hour and a half, chickens take half an hour, pigeons 
 ten minutes less. It must be understood that the /adherence to the 
 time 'will depend on the state of the fire, &c; a slow fire will make a 
 longer time necessary, and at the same time spoil the poultry. 
 
 381. — to bone birds: 
 Begin to bone any birds by first taking out the breast bone, when 
 3'ou will have sufficient space to remove the back with a sharp knife, 
 and then the leg bones ; the skin must not be broken, but the meat 
 of the legs must be pushed inwards. 
 
 382. TUEKEY BOAST. 
 
 It is stuffed with either sausage meat or fillet of veal stuffing. 
 "While roasting a piece of paper should be placed over the part 
 stuffed, as being bulky it will catch the fire and become scorched, 
 but keep the heat well to the breast, in order that it may be as well 
 done as the rest of the bird. Baste well, and froth it up. Serve 
 with gravy in the dish, and bread sauce in a tureen. To the sausage 
 meat, if used, add a few bread crumbs and a beaten egg. Turkey is 
 sometimes stuffed with truffles ; they are prepared thus : they must 
 be peeled, and chopped, and pounded in a mortar, in quantities of a 
 . pound and a half will be found sufficient ; rasp the same weight of 
 fat of bacon, and mix it with the truffles. Stuff the turkey with it '; 
 this stuffing is usually placed in the turkey two days previous to 
 cooking, it is supposed to impart a flavour to the flesh of the fowl. 
 Cut thin slices of fat bacon, and place over the breast of the turkey. 
 Secure it with half a sheet of clean white paper, and roast. Chest- 
 nuts dressed in the same fashion are found an excellent substitute 
 for truffles. Two hours will roast it. 
 
 383. BOAST TDBKEY. 
 
 Stuff it with veal stuffing, with or without truffles, if truffles, chop 
 andvpound some and mix in the stuffing, keeping all your large ones 
 to be whole for the body of the turkey, you must keep them in the> 
 turkey for two days ; chestnuts should be used raw, pare and pound 
 them, roast at a slow fire covered with buttered paper. 
 
 ( 384. TUEKEY BOILED. 
 
 A hen bird is considered the best. It may be stuffed with truffles, 
 chestnuts, or sausage meat. Boil it in a clean floured cloth ; throw 
 some salt into the water in which it is boiled. Cover close, and 
 simmer for two hours, remove the scum frequently. White sauce, 
 or parsley and butter, the latter is now scarcely ever brought to 
 table. 
 
130 poultbt: 
 
 385.— TURKEY WITH SAUSAGE MEAT AND TONGUE. 
 
 Bone the turkey, then fill the inside with sausage meat, with or 
 without tongue, if with tongue the tongue should be boiled the day 
 before, cut off the root and tip to the length of the turkey, if you 
 have a fowl to spare, wrap the tongue in this after.it is boned, and 
 place it in the middle of the turkey surrounded with sausage meat, 
 introduce truffles if you like ; if roasted, a slow fire, and it will take 
 a long time to roast through ; if for boiling, cover it with fat bacon and 
 slices of lemon tied in a cloth, pour whatever sauce you propose over 
 the turkey. 
 
 386. TURKEY HASHED. 
 
 Cut up the remains of a roasted turkey, put it into a stewpan with 
 half a gill of sherry wine, shalots, truffles, mushrooms, chopped, 
 parsley, salt, pepper, two spoonfuls of cullis, and a little stock; boil 
 half an hour; and reduce to a thick sauce. When ready add a pound 
 of anchovies ; and a squeeze of lemon. Skim the sauce free from fat, 
 and serve altogether. 
 
 387. FORCED TURKEY OR FOWL. 
 
 Take all the bones from the turkey, fill it in again with either good 
 sausage meat or veal forcemeat, with or without truffles as may be 
 required, braise it in a cloth keeping it a good shape ; when done 
 glaze the breast a good colour, use silver skewers to ornament with, 
 and any of the sauces named or a fricandeau sauce under it. 
 
 388. FORCED TURKEY WITH A TONGUE. 
 
 Boil a tongue the day before, take off the skin, and cut off the 
 root, then place it in the middle of the boned turkey, and then cover 
 forcemeat all round it, but do not fill it too full or it will burst in 
 boiling. 
 
 389. TURKEY LEGS BROILED. 
 
 Braise some undressed legs of turkey until tender, dip them in 
 melted butter, or clear salad oil ; broil them a fine brown colour, and 
 serve with a rimoulade sauce. 
 
 ). TTJRKEY A LA ROYALE. 
 
 Make a mince with tongue, ham, mushrooms, and truffles ; put it 
 into a Spanish or brown sauce. The turkey being roasted, dish it, 
 add a little lemon juice to the mince, which pour into the dish, and- 
 serve. 
 
 391. TURKEY POULT 
 
 Should be roasted without stuffing, it will be done with a clear fire in 
 twenty minutes. Serve with bread or gravy sauce. 
 
POULTRY. 131 
 
 392.— TURKEY GIBLETS A LA BOTJRGEOISE. 
 
 The giblets consist of pinions, feet, neck, liver, and gizzard ; 
 scald, and put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter, parsley, 
 scallions, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, basil, mushrooms, and a clove or 
 two ; moisten with stock, season with pepper and salt, make it well 
 hot, thicken with a little flour, and when almost done add a few 
 turnips fried slightly in a little butter. 
 
 393. — TO EOAST A GOOSE. 
 
 Goose in itself is of a strong rich flavour, and requires both nicety 
 in the cooking as well as in the stuffing to obviate that strength of 
 flavour. There are many modes of stuffing ; for one mode, take two 
 moderate sized onions and boil them rapidly ten minutes, then chop 
 them finely, mince sage to the quantity of half the onion, add of 
 powdered bread twice as much as of onion, pepper and salt it, intro- 
 ducing a little cayenne, and then bind it with the beaten yolk of ait 
 egg. Potatoes mashed are sometimes introduced, but not frequently 
 into the body, they should be mashed with floury potatoes mixed with 
 cream and a little fresh butter rather highly seasoned with cayenne 
 and salt. Both ends of the goose should be secured when trussed 
 that the seasoning may not escape. It should be roasted before a 
 quick fire and kept constantly basted ; a piece of white paper may be 
 placed over the breast while roasting until it rises, and then it may 
 be removed ; it will take from an hour and a half to an hour and 
 three quarters, serve with a rich brown gravy and apple sauce. 
 
 Previous to sending to table, a flavouring may be made as follows, 
 to a dessert-spoonfal of made mustard add a quarter of a tea-spoonful 
 of cayenne pepper, about the same quantity of salt, mix it evenly 
 with a glass of port wine and two glasses of rich gravy, make it hot, 
 cut a slit in the apron of the goose, and pour it through just 
 previously to serving. 
 
 394. A GREEN GOOSE 
 
 Is seldom or never stuffed ; the inside may be well peppered and 
 salted, amd it should be roasted before a brisk fire about three 
 quarters of an hour; it should be sent to table with no other ac- 
 companiment than a good brown gravy and apple or sorrel sauce. 
 
 395. — GREEN GOOSE, OR YOUNG AND OLD GEESE. 
 
 Ducklings and green geese are roasted without any stuffing, but a 
 goose requires stuffing; boil some sage, and some onions, and some 
 apples, chop all fine together, a little pepper, and salt, a little mus- 
 tard, juice of lemon, & few bread crumbs, bind all together with a 
 little good stock, or milk, or butter ; apple sauce in a boat. 
 
 396. TO BOAST DUCKS. 
 
 Ducks should be well plucked without tearing the skin, all the 
 - K 2 
 
132 POULTBY. 
 
 plugs being removed. Some cooks go so far as to skin the duck, 
 holding it a minute by the feet in scalding water, that the skin may 
 peel easier; clean the insides thoroughly with a little warm water, and 
 stuff them with the same stuffing as for goose, using perhaps a little 
 more bread for the sake of mildness, roast them before a brisk fire, 
 but not too close, baste very frequently, they will take from half an 
 hour to an hour, much depends on the age and size, when the breast 
 plumps they will be just done ; serve them with a rich brown gravy. 
 
 397. TO BOIL DUCKS. 
 
 Clean and pluck them, let the skin be preserved from rents while 
 plucking, salt them for about thirty hours previous to cooking, flour 
 a clean white cloth and boil them in it, a moderate sized duck will 
 take about an hour's boiling, make a rich onion sauce with milk, and 
 send it to table with the duck. When the duck is boiled fresh it 
 may be stuffed as for roasting, and served with the same description 
 of gravy, 
 
 398. — TO STEW DUCKS. 
 
 There is a difference between a stewed duck and stewed duck, and it 
 is not the a alone ; in the one case the duck is stewed whole, and in 
 the other in pieces. To stew a duck or ducks, they should be stuffed 
 and roasted for twenty minutes, and then placed in a stewpan with an 
 onion cut in slices, a little sage and mint, and sweet herbs chopped 
 fine, and about a pint of good beef gravy, seasoned with pepper and 
 salt, let it stew gently for about twenty minutes, take out the duck 
 carefully and keep it warm, strain the gravy, pour it into a clean 
 stewpan, and add to it when well heated the duck and a quart of 
 green peas, let it simmer for half an hour, if not sufficiently thick 
 add a little flour and butter, a glass of good old port wine, and send 
 to table, with the peas in the same dish as the duck. 
 
 399. STEWED DUCK. 
 
 The ducks should be cut into joints and laid in a stewpan with a 
 pint of good gravy, let it come to a boil, as the scum rises remove it; 
 season with salt and cayenne, let them stew gently three quarters of 
 an hour, mix smoothly two tea-spoonfuls of fine ground rice, with a 
 glass of port, stir it into the gravy, let it have seven or eight 
 minutes to amalgamate with the gravy, dish and send to table very 
 hot. 
 
 400. TO HASH DUCKS. 
 
 The same receipt may be followed as for hashing fowl and, game, 
 with the exception that it will not require so much time, to stew. 
 
 401. WILD DUCKS, OE TEAL. 
 
 . You must be very particular in not roasting these birds too much; 
 
POULTKY. 133 
 
 a duck about fifteen minutes with a good fire, baste them very fre- 
 quently ; teal will of course take less time, but your fire and motion 
 of the spit must be attended to, and when you dish it, unless pre- 
 ferred to be done by the gentleman at the table, draw your knife four 
 times down the breast ; have ready a little hot butter, and juice of a 
 lemon, cayenne pepper, a little dust of sugar, a glass of port wine, 
 pour it all hot, the last minute, over your ducks ; the remainder left 
 of those birds the next day makes excellent salmi or hash, taking 
 care of all the gravy that may remain. 
 
 402. — WILD DUCKS. 
 
 These birds require clean plucking and clean washing, which may 
 be done by pouring warm water through the body after it has been 
 drawn ; half an hour before a brisk fire will suffice to roast them, and 
 stuffing is not required. When it is sent to table the breast should 
 be sliced, and a lemon squeezed over it, the slices of the breast and 
 the wings are the only parts really worth eating to a sensitive palate, 
 the strong flavour of the bird rendering it a dish only for those with 
 peculiar tastes. 
 
 403. BOAST FOWLS. 
 
 If nicely trussed, make a stuffing of butter and some pepper, dry 
 up the butter with, a few bread crumbs, baste it well, add flour and 
 salt before you take it from the fire. If approved of, stuff the fowl 
 with some good sausage-meat, truffles, or chesnuts. 
 
 404. — HOAST FOWL. 
 
 Clean the fowl thoroughly, roast it twenty minutes, unless a very 
 fine one, and then it will take three quarters of an hour ; serve with 
 bread sauce, or parsley and butter, egg sauce is sometimes sent to 
 table with it. 
 
 If a small lump of salt butter, well covered with black pepper, is 
 placed within the fowl previous to roasting, it will be found to 
 improve the fowl by removing the dryness which is met_ with in the 
 back and side bones. 
 
 405. — BOILED FOWLS. 
 
 Flour a white cloth, and put the fowls in cold water, let them 
 simmer for three quarters of an hour, serve with parsley and butter, 
 or oyster or celery sauce. The fowls may be covered with a white 
 sauce if sent cold to table, garnished with coloured calf's foot jelly of 
 the hue of beetroot. 
 
 406. — COLD FOWLS. 
 
 When, for the purpose of convenience, fowls are sent to table cold, 
 it is much better to carve them in the kitchen, let it be done with, a 
 
134 POULTRY. 
 
 short knife and with precision, the slices from the breast should be 
 well cut, and the whole arranged tastefully in the centre of the dish, 
 a layer of ham and tongue in alternate pieces may be laid round the 
 dish, and slices of both in small dishes should accompany it to table ; 
 handsome sprigs of parsley may garnish each dish. 
 
 407. FOWLS WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Remove the skin from a plump young fowl, bone it carefully, then 
 slice some green truffles, season them with pepper, salt, and mace, to 
 taste, and stuff the fowl with them, tying it up tightly. Cut into 
 slices some fat bacon, place them in layers over the fowl, and upon 
 each slice of bacon lay a thin slice of lemon, from which the rind has 
 been removed. Put the whole into a stewpan, with an onion stuck 
 with two or three cloves, and a carrot, oovering the whole with water, 
 let it stew very gently for an hour and a half, strain, add a cupfiil of 
 good rich gravy with a spoonful of Harvey's or mushroom sauce, let 
 it simmer half an hour, and serve with the fowl in the sauce. 
 
 408. FOWL BBOILED. 
 
 Separate the back of the fowl and lay the two sides open, skewer 
 the wings as for roasting, season well with pepper and salt, and 
 broil ; send to table with the inside of the fowl to the surface of the 
 dish, serve mushroom sauce ; it is an admirable breakfast dish when 
 a journey is to be performed. 
 
 409. FOWL, ETC., HASHED. 
 
 This receipt will serve for any but the very larger species of 
 poultry or game; joint them and cut a cutlet from each side of the 
 breast, if it has not been eaten when previously dressed, break the 
 bones of the body and put all into a stewpan with a pint of water, a 
 small faggot of sweet herbs, one carrot sliced, and an onion ; let it 
 stew an hour and three quarters, or two hours, skim the fat from the 
 gravy as it rises, strain it, skim again, and pour it into another stew- 
 pan, thicken with a little butter and flour, flavour with Harvey's 
 sauce, or any sauce applicable to such a dish, a little pepper and salt, 
 and ground nutmeg, or mace for seasoning ; add the fowl and heat it 
 thoroughly through without permitting the- hash to come to a boil. 
 Sippets of toasted or fried bread cut in dice surround the dish, in the 
 centre of which the fowl is handsomely laid. 
 
 410. TO GRILL COLD FOWLS. 
 
 Trim the joints that remain, and having dipped them in" clarified 
 butter, spread over them a coating of finely powdered bread crumbs, 
 mixed with very finely ground nutmeg, mace, cayenne, and salt in 
 small quantities, lay them upon a clean gridiron over a clear fire, 
 broil gently. 
 
POULTRY. 135 
 
 411. — GUINEA FOWL, BOASTED. 
 
 This bird has very much the flavour of a pheasant, and should be 
 allowed to hang as long as it can without being too far gone '; it may- 
 be then trussed and dressed as a pheasant or as a turkey. Serve 
 with a rich brown gravy aud bread sauce ; it will take from forty-five 
 to fifty minutes. 
 
 412. FEIOASSEE OF FOWL. 
 
 The fowl must be rather better than parboiled ; this is done best 
 by placing it in a jar instead of immediately into the water, in the jar 
 should be put a small lump of butter rolled in flour, parsley, an onion 
 sliced, and a little salt ; the jar and its ingredients should be placed 
 in a saucepan, and when the fowl is three parts done it should be 
 taken out, drained, and dried with a cloth, and the liquor strained 
 and skimmed ; place it in a stewpan with two slices of ham of 
 moderate thickness, add a little butter and flour to colour; the liquor 
 from the jar will serve to moisten it ; add a few mushrooms, chopped 
 parsley, a handful of spring onions cut small, sorrel, a bay leaf, a 
 clove, and a little seasoning, let it stew, occasionally skimming it 
 until done, take away the herbs, thicken the sauce with cream, 
 squeeze in lemon juice, pour the sauce over the fowl when dished. 
 Be careful that it does not boil while stewing, or the fowl will be 
 spoiled. 
 
 413. MADE DISHES OF POULTRY, FOWL A LA PBOVEN9AL. 
 
 Partly roast the fowl, cut it up, detaching the wings and legs, 
 carefully dividing side bones, neck bones, breast, and back in as 
 handsome pieces as possible ; take eight or ten large onions, which 
 cut in slices of moderate thickness, make in a stewpan a layer of the 
 sliced onion with some chopped parsley, then lay upon it some of the 
 fowl, again a layer of the onion and parsley until the whole of the 
 fowl and onion are used ; place in two bay leaves and about as much 
 salt as would fill a large tea-spoon, four table-spoonfuls of olive oil, or, 
 if that is not to the palate, substitute cream ; it should simmer gently 
 until enough, and then be dished, the onion in the middle; serve with 
 a little sauce. 
 
 414. — FOWL A LA BECHAMEL. 
 
 If you have had a roast capon for the second course the day before, 
 and only a little cut from the breast, take a sharp knife and cut 
 through the breast bone down nearly to the rump, left of the breast, 
 take off the skin and cut it up as you would -for pulled fowl ; have 
 ready in a stewpan a little good white sauce, chopped parsley, and 
 shalot, a little piece of mushroom chopped, boil all this together, 
 keeping it quite thick, scrape out anything remaining in the inside of 
 the fowl, after season the emincet with lemon juice, salt, and cayenne 
 pepper, fill in the fowl imitating a whole fowl, cover it with bread 
 
136 POTJBTRY. 
 
 crumbs, sprinkle clarified butter all over tbe bread crumbs, butter 
 paper; and tie round the fowl, put it into the oven to brown the top 
 and get hot through, when done a light brown take off the paper, and 
 put it into your dish with a good sauce under it. 
 
 .515. AN INDIAN PILAU. 
 
 Truss a fowl as for boiling, pass it a few minutes in the oven, 
 raising it up with fat bacon or buttered paper ; fry some onions, a 
 few bruised coriander seeds, and a few cardamum seeds whole, fry a 
 nice light colour four onions cut in slices, add to this a gill or more 
 of cream, when all fried in a little butter; put in your fowl with some 
 good veal stock, have ready some rice boiled in milk for two minutes, 
 skim it off and add it to the fowl, frequently looking at it and moving 
 it to keep it from sticking or burning, let your fowl stew for a quarter 
 of an hour before you add the rice, do not let the rice get mashed ; 
 season with cayenne pepper and salt, put all the rice and liquor 
 round the fowl :you can use rabbits, or chickens, or quails, or veal, 
 instead of fowl, the same way. 
 
 416. GEAVY FOE A FOWL WHEN THEEE IS NO MEAT TO 
 
 ' MAKE IT OF. 
 
 Nicely wash the feet of a fowl, and cut them and the neck into 
 small pieces, simmer them with a little browned bread, a slice of 
 onions, a bit of parsley, and thyme, some pepper, and salt, and the 
 liver and gizzard in a quarter of a pint of water, simmer them till 
 they are reduced to a half ; take out the liver, bruise it, and strain 
 the liquor to it, then thicken it with flour, and butter, and add a 
 tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. 
 
 417. BLANC. 
 
 A mixture of salt, butter, water, and a slice of lemon, and as 
 follows : — :cut a pound of beef suet, also a pound of fat bacon, 
 into slices, half a pound of butter, the juice of a lemon, salt, and 
 pepper, one or two onions, a bunch of parsley, a little thyme, bay 
 leaf, and spice. AVhen stewed enough, it should be strained 
 through a tammy or hair sieve. If used for a fowl, the latter must 
 simmer in it about thirty-five minutes. 
 
 418. — BLANC. 
 
 Take half a pound of beef fat, half a pound of bacon, a quarter 
 of a pound of fresh butter, two carrots, two onions cut in half, a 
 buncfi of sweet herbs, a few bay-leaves, the juice of a lemon, some, 
 salt, whole pepper, and two glasses of stock, and boil the whole for 
 some time, it will be then fit for use. 
 
 419. CHICKENS BOILED. 
 
 Care should be taken to select the chickens plump or theyrform'ia 
 
POULTRY. 137 
 
 meagre dish, they should receive much attention in the boiling, they 
 require less time than a fowl, and are sent to table with white sauce, 
 and. garnished with tufts of white broccoli. 
 
 420. CHICKENS PULLED. 
 
 Remove the skin carefully from a cold chicken, then pull the flesh 
 from the bones, preserving it as whole as you can. Flour them well, 
 fry them a nice brown in fresh butter ; draw them, and stew in a 
 good gravy well seasoned ; thicken a short time before serving with 
 flour and butter, and add the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 421. CUEBJED CHICKENS. 
 
 Lay the pieces of a dressed chicken into a stewpan with a sliced 
 onion fried brown, a clove of garlic, and some good white gravy : 
 simmer till the chicken is tender, add a spoonful of curry powder, 
 flour rubbed smooth with a lump of butter; a quarter of a pint of 
 cream, with a little salt, may be added twenty minutes before serving: 
 squeeze a little lemon into the dish, and put an edging of rice round 
 the dish. 
 
 422. TO BEAISE CHICKENS. 
 
 Bone the chickens, stuff them with forcemeat, place in the stewpan 
 the bones and trimmings, lay the chickens upon them with a braise 
 of sweet herbs, onions, mace whole, some thin slices of bacon, about 
 three parts of a pint of stock, or, if that is not handy, water, two 
 glasses of sherry, the bacon should be added last. Cover close, and 
 stew for two hours. Then take out the chickens, strain the braise, 
 remove the fat, and boil the braise rapidly to a glaze, paint it over the 
 chickens with a brush while the braise is being boiled ; brown the 
 chickens before the fire, it adds to their appearance. When glazed, 
 fowls may be braised in the same manner. 
 
 423. CUTLETS OF CHICKEN. 
 
 Remove the skin of two or three chickens. Bone all the joints 
 except the wings, unless the fowl is very fleshy, and then remove 
 them also, removing likewise breast bones; flatten the flesh, and 
 spread over them a seasoning of salt } cayenne, grated nutmeg, and 
 mace, the salt being in the greatest proportion. Coat them with 
 beaten egg and bread crumbs, fry them a nice brown. 
 
 Have ready some good brown gravy seasoned and flavoured with 
 lemon pickle. Lay the cutlets in the centre of the dish, and pour 
 the gravy over them. 
 
 424. FRIED CHICKEN A LA MALABAE. 
 
 The Indian receipts for carving chicken are very numerous, we 
 sele'ct the following. Cut up the fowl as for a stew, removing the 
 
138 POULTRY. 
 
 joints carefully and carving the body into handsome shapes, remove 
 all moisture with a clean dry cloth, and powder every part with curry, 
 to which half a tea-spoonful of curry has been added, fry it in fresh 
 butter a pale brown, cut into small pieces two or three onions, and 
 fry in clear butter, sufficient to keep the pan from burning, be very 
 particular respecting that, but not more than should be absorbed by 
 the onion after some time frying. It is as well here to say, that as 
 onions are frequently used in the curried poultry by tihe Indian cooks, 
 they employ the following method. When to be cut small they slice 
 the onions and then separate them into rings, cutting these rings into 
 the sizes they may require, which, if a little more labour, yet 
 presents a better appearance; when they are fried sufficiently to have 
 absorbed the grease in the pan without in any degree having been 
 burned, spread them over the chicken and serve; a whole lemon 
 should be sent to table with them. 
 
 425. PIGEONS BOASTED. 
 
 Veal stuffing for pigeons ; it improves the flavour ; they must be 
 fresh and well cleaned; butter and parsley may be served with them, 
 but parsley alone as a stuffing, though frequently used, is by no means 
 so palatable as the veal stuffing, or one made with veal, the fat of 
 bacon, and the crumb of bread soaked in milk and well seasoned. 
 They are sometimes stuffed with truffles, or chestnut and bacon as 
 turkey, covered with thin slices of fat bacon enwrapped in vine leaves 
 instead of paper. They receive a fine flavour, but are they worth so 
 much trouble ? 
 
 426. ROASTED PIGEONS. 
 
 Let your pigeons be picked clean and washed, then stuff the whole 
 inside of the pigeon with fine veal stuffing if preferred, if not, merely 
 a few bread crumbs and parsley, pepper and salt. 
 
 4 27. PIGEONS BKOILED. 
 
 Split the backs, season them highly, lay them over a clear brisk 
 fire, serve with mushroom sauce. 
 
 42S. PIGEONS AS WOODCOCKS. 
 
 Toast some bread as for woodcocks, butter it, and drop a few drops 
 of essence of anchovies on the butter, spread it all over the toast, 
 then put the toast under the pigeons while roasting. 
 
 429. PIGEONS STEWED. 
 
 Take a white cabbage, cut it as for pickling, rince it in clear cold 
 water, drain it well, put it into a saucepan with equal quantities of 
 milk and water, boil it, strain off the milk and take a portion of the 
 cabbage and lay it in a stevvpan ; soak the pigeons for half an hour in 
 
POULTRY. 139 
 
 cold milk and water, season them well with salt and pepper, adding 
 a little cayenne ; place them in the stewpan with the cabbage, cover 
 them over with what remains, add some white broth, stew slowly 
 until the pigeons are tender, thieken with a little cream, flour, and 
 butter, let it boil, and serve up the pigeon with a puree of the cabbage. 
 
 430. PIGEONS — LARDED AND BRAISED. 
 
 They require some skill as well as trouble, but they may be 
 dressed exactly in the same manner as chickens, glaze them, and 
 send them to table with mushroom sauce. 
 
 431. FILLETS OF PIGEONS. 
 
 To each fillet leave the wing bone on, flatten them with your 
 beater, you can take the bone out of the leg, take off the skin, and 
 form them the shape of the fillets, and use them between, or leave the 
 skin on, and fill in the leg with a little forcemeat, then saute them 
 off, take them up, and press them until cold; you can dish those 
 alternately with your fillets or cutlets, if you wish cutlets, you must 
 bread crumb them, as you will find veal cutlets are done, if garnish 
 and ornamental work is liked, put a small cut truffle on the bone of 
 each cutlet, and where there is no bone put a little skewer in for a 
 bone. 
 
 432. COMPOTE OF PIGEONS. 
 
 Blanch four pigeons, then stuff them, place them in a stewpan, 
 put in an onion, a slice of lemon, and a small handful of mushrooms, 
 lay over them slices of fat bacon, add half a pint of good gravy, and 
 stew gently until the pigeons are tender; take them out of the 
 gravy, and keep them hot, strain off the gravy, skim it clear, then 
 thieken with half a spoonful of flour, and a lump of butter, the size of 
 a small walnut ; season with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne, a few 
 forcemeat balls may be added at pleasure, pour half into the dish with 
 the pigeous, and serve the remainder in a tureen. 
 
 433. PIGEONS IN JELLY. 
 
 Make some jelly of calf's foot, or if you have the liquor in which 
 a knuckle of veal has been boiled, it will answer the same purpose ; 
 place it in a stewpan with a hunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, 
 white pepper, a slice of lean bacon, some lemon peel, and the pigeons, 
 which, being trussed and their necks propped up to make them 
 appear natural, season to your palate. Bake them ; when they are 
 done remove them from the liquor, but keep them covered close, that 
 their colour may be preserved. Remove the fat, boil the whites of a 
 «ouple of eggs with the jelly to clear it, and strain it ; this is usually 
 done by dipping a cloth into boiling water, and straining it through 
 it, as it prevents anything like scum or dirt sweeping through the 
 strainer. Put the jelly rough over and round the pigeons. 
 
140 POULTRY. 
 
 434, — PIGEONS OB ANT BIED IN ASPIC JELLS. 
 
 Get three pigeons, take out the ■ bones, leaving on the neck and 
 head, fill the birds with some forcemeat, making them the shape of 
 the bird, cover them with fat bacon, put them on a dish, place them 
 in the oven until done, take them out to get cold, have ready some 
 very light coloured aspic jelly, either chop your jelly round them on 
 the dish or in a mould, if in a mould place the breast downwards, let 
 the jelly be quite cold and beginning to set before you pour it in, 
 but if you intend to ornament your mould do it with green, red, 
 and white devices, with what may then be in season ; radishes, 
 whites of hard eggs, cucumbers, French beans, truffles, and any other 
 eatable and wholesome thing, never use any thing that is injurious to 
 health; set it to get stiff, turn out with warm water. 
 
 435. — TO POT PIGEONS. 
 
 Season them well with pepper, cayenne, a little mace, and salt, pack 
 them closely in a pan, cover them with butter,' r and bake them ; let 
 them get cold, then take off the fat, put the pigeons into pots, pour 
 melted butter over them. 
 
 436. — WOOD PIGEONS 
 
 May be dressed exactly as tame pigeons, save that they require 
 rather less time in the cooking, and the gravy or sauces should be 
 richer and of a higher flavour. 
 
 437. — CHESTNUT STUFFING FOR PIGEONS. 
 
 Blanch some chestnuts, then pound them in a mortar with a small 
 quantity of scraped fat bacon, a dust of sugar, pepper, and salt, and 
 a few bread crumbs, then stuff the pigeons, covering them with vine 
 leaves. 
 
 438. — LAKES. 
 
 Be very particular in roasting these birds ; melt a little butter, add 
 to it a yolk of egg, and with your paste brush egg all over them, and 
 then bread crumb them, while roasting frequently baste them and 
 flour them, and before you take them up flour and salt them; send 
 them up with some brown bread crumbs. 
 
 439.— LARKS. 
 
 These nice little birds are in season in November; when they are 
 cleaned, gutted, and picked, truss them, then do them over with yolk 
 of egg, and then roll them in bread crumbs, spit them on a lark spit, 
 and then fasten them on to a larger one ; ten or fifteen minutes are 
 enough to roast them in before a quick fire. Whilst they are roasting 
 baste them with fresh butter, and sprinkle them with bread, crumbs 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 141 
 
 till they are well covered with them, fry some grated bread in butter, 
 set it to drain before the fire that it may harden, serve the crumbs 
 in the dish under the larks, and garnish with slices of lemon. 
 
 440. — LARKS — TO BOAST. 
 
 Lard and cover them with bacon, or you may only cover one half 
 •with bacon and lard the other, roast them, leave under them toasted 
 bread to receive all that falls, leave in the trails for a side dish, they 
 may be served up a variety of ways. 
 
 44 1 . — WHEATE AES. 
 
 You will dress these the same as larks, taking about fifteen 
 minutes to roast. 
 
142 
 
 GAME, ETC. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 GAME, ETC. 
 
 449. VENISON THE HAUNCH. 
 
 "The observed of all observers," when venison: Epicureans sit at 
 table; it is a joint, if properly kept, properly cooked, and served hot," 
 •which must prove delicious to the palate. It should always hang a 
 considerable length of time, the delicacy of its flavour is obtained by 
 hanging only, if it be cooked while fresh, it will not equal in any 
 respect a haunch of mutton. 
 
 The haunch of venison, when about to be roasted, should be washed 
 in warm milk and water, and dried with a clean cloth ; if it has hung 
 very long and the skin smells musty, it will be the safest plan to 
 remove the skin and wrap the whole of the haunch in paper well 
 greased with fresh butter; during the time it is at the fire, do 
 
GAME, ETC. 143 
 
 not be afraid of basting it too much, it will require all the cook is 
 likely to give it ; if it be a buck haunch and large it will take nearly 
 four lours within five or ten minutes ; if comparatively small, three 
 hours and a half will suffice ; if a doe haunch, three hours and a 
 quarter will be enough. Eemove the paper when it is done enough, 
 dredge quickly with flour to produce a froth. Dish it and serve, let 
 there be nothing with it in the dish ; but the gravy should be sent to 
 table in its proper dish, accompanied by currant jelly. The haunch 
 is not unfrequently roasted in a paste, which in its turn is enclosed 
 in paper, removed when the joint is nearly cooked. The above is the 
 simplest and not the least palatable mode of sending it to table. 
 
 443. — TO DRESS VENISON. 
 
 All venison for roasting should have a paste made of lard over it ; 
 after first having papered the meat with buttered paper, then your 
 stiff paste upon the top of that, either dangle it or put it in a cradle 
 spit ; a few minutes before you require to take it up take off the 
 paste and paper, baste it with some butter, salt it and flour it, when 
 done give it a few more turns round, send it up very hot ; your dish 
 and gravy to be very hot also ; any dry pieces and the shank you will 
 boil down with a little brown stock for the gravy ; send currant jelly 
 in a boat, and French beans in a vegetable dish. 
 
 444. — TO HASH VENISON. 
 
 Carve your venison into slices, let them be thin, and put them in 
 a stewpan with two small glasses of port wine, add a spoonful of 
 browning, one of ketchup, an onion stuek with cloves, and half an an- 
 chovy chopped small, let it boil, then put in your venison, make it 
 thoroughly hot through. Lay sippets of toast, in various shapes in a 
 soup dish, pour the hash upon it, and serve with currant jelly. 
 
 445. HASHED VENISON. 
 
 Cut and trim some nice thin slices of venison, fat and lean, have a 
 nice brown sauce made from the bones in scrag of the venison, put 
 the meat you have cut into this sauce with the gravy that has run 
 from the venison, and a glass of port wine. Cut up some of the 
 fat into pieces an inch thick, put the fat in a stewpan, and some 
 hot*!3tock upon them ; when you have dished up your hash, which 
 should be in a hot water dish with a holey spoon, take out the fat, 
 and sprinkle it all over the hash ; send up currant jelly. 
 
 446. A SHOULDER OF VENISON STEWED. 
 
 If you should have a very lean shoulder stew it in preference to 
 roasting ; bone it, cover it with slices of mutton fat, which sometimes 
 are first steeped in port to give a richer flavour, roll it up and bind it 
 tightly. Lay it in a stewpan with a quantity of beef gravy, and the 
 
144 GAME, ETC. 
 
 bones you have taken from the venison, add. two glasses of port, a 
 dessert-spoonful of whole pepper, and the same quantity of all-spice. 
 Cover down closely, and simmer until, the venison is tender, take it 
 out and remove the fat, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, and 
 strain it over the meat. 
 
 447. NECK AND SHOULDER OF VENISON. 
 
 These joints, or as together they may be termed the haunch joint, 
 may be dressed exactly like the haunch, covered ■with a thin paste, 
 and greased paper over that, it -will take two hours and a half, or 
 very large, three hours ; it should be served up with venison sauce. 
 
 448. TO DBESS A FAWN OE KID. 
 
 They should be dressed as quickly after being killed as it is con- 
 venient. If they are full grown they should be roasted in quarters, 
 but if very young may be dressed, trussed, and stuffed exactly as a 
 hare ; the quarters will be improved in flavour when the fawn is 
 full grown, if they are covered with fat bacon, and basted as venison ; 
 serve venison sauce with it. 
 
 449 . — PHEASANTS. 
 
 Pheasants are rarely stuffed, it is more customary to send them to 
 table accompanied by forcemeat in the dish, in many cases with the 
 simple gravy only ; the real Epicurean in game prefers the flavour 
 of the bird uncontaminated by any accessories save those which just 
 assist to remove the dryness common to most game. Pheasants are 
 sometimes larded, but as the flavour is entirely disguised by the 
 taste of the bacon, incorporated with the flesh of the fowl, unless it is 
 done more for appearance than palate, we would not advise it. 
 
 In dressing the pheasant it should be drawn and cleaned as other 
 game and trussed, should be roasted before a clear, not a fierce fire, 
 and will take forty minutes, it must not be done too much, but must 
 not on any account be sent to table underdone. 
 
 450 . — PHE A SANTS 
 
 May be, and are oftener, plain roasted than not, but very frequently 
 larded, and if two are served in a dish, have one larded; but, when 
 stuffed, by some, larding is most approved. Mince very jfine some 
 raw veal with a small quantity of fat bacon with a few bread crumbs, 
 pepper and salt, with this stuff your birds, baste frequently, and 
 flour and salt them before you take them up. 
 
 To any game of this kind you may introduce either chestnut stuff- 
 ing or truffles, the truffles only to be cut in slices or put in whole. 
 
 451 . — PHEASANT — BOILED. 
 
 The pheasant should be stuffed with veal stuffing, and trussed in 
 
GAME, ETC. 14a 
 
 the same manner in which a turkey is for boiling. It should be put 
 into hot water, and should be boiled from fifty minutes to an hour. 
 The same sauces recommended for a boiled turkey, will also be suit-! 
 able for a boiled pheasant. 
 
 452. BLACK COCK ROASTED. 
 
 The birds should be hung until very high, they should be carefully 
 plucked that the skin may be as little abrased as possible, drawn, 
 washed, and wiped with a clean cloth; truss as pheasants, baste with 
 butter, roast forty to fifty minutes, serve on a toast ; brown gravy 
 may be sent to table with them. Grey hen is cooked in the same 
 manner. 
 
 453 . — P ARTRID GES 
 
 Are cooked as pheasants ; they should not be stuffed, grate bread 
 crumbs into a shallow dish, place them before the fire to brown, 
 shaking them occasionally and send them to table with the birds; 
 partridges may be stuffed with truffles and bacon. 
 
 454. — PARTRIDGES. 
 
 Eoast as before, not forgetting to baste them frequently ; and, if 
 required, stuff them with any of the former farces, but you may at all 
 times use bacon and vine leaves on the breasts. 
 
 455 . PARTRID G E BOILED , 
 
 Should be treated as boiled pheasant, stuffed, trussed, put into boiling 
 water, and if a small one will be done in ten minutes, if large a quar- 
 ter of an hour. Black partridges are considered most fit to boil. 
 
 456. PARTRIDGE BROILED. 
 
 Let the partridge hang until longer would make it offensive, split 
 it, and take a soft clean cloth and remove all the moisture inside and 
 out ; lay it upon a gridiron over a very clear fire ; spread a little 
 salt and cayenne over it. When it is done, which will be in twenty 
 minutes, rub a little butter over it, and send it to table with mush- 
 room sauce. 
 
 457. PARTRIDGES STEWED. 
 
 r Partridges are differently trussed for stewing to what they are for 
 roasting, the wings are fixed over the back, and the legs skewered. 
 Take a piece of bacon, and put it with a small piece of butter in a 
 stewpan ; fry it brown, put in the partridges so that the bacon covers 
 the breast, let them be very brown : add half a pint of gravy. Boil 
 a cabbage, so that it is ready by the time the partridges are fried 
 brown,' chop it with pepper and salt, and a lump of butter. Add it 
 
 L 
 
146 GAME, ETC. 
 
 with the gravy to the partridges, stew slowly for an hour ; when 
 dishing, place the bacon in the centre of the dish, lay the partridges 
 upon it, and make a wall of the cabbage round. While stewing, turn 
 the partridges often, 
 
 458. GBOUSE, OE MOOE GAME. 
 
 You may use bacon on the breast. Dish them on fried or toasted 
 bread well buttered, if toast, bread sauce in a boat. 
 
 459. TO BOAST GBOUSE. 
 
 Dress the birds as above, serve on a toast, they will require twenty 
 minutes less than black cock in roasting. 
 
 "When they are sent to table without the toast, serve with fried 
 bread crumbs and bread sauce, or brown gravy instead of the Jbread 
 crumbs. 
 
 460. — HAEES. 
 
 A hare is nothing if not well hung and well cooked ; a hare must 
 be hung very long indeed to be hung too long. It is better for not 
 being paunched for a few days, unless the weather is warm and muggy, 
 in no case is it advisable to paunch it when first killed. Keep the 
 inside wiped dry and well peppered. If the hare is very old soak it 
 a couple of hours in water and vinegar, then wash it in clean luke- 
 warm water to take away the acid flavour which might be communi- 
 cated by the vinegar, put in the belly plenty of stuffing, well seasoned ; 
 hang the hare some distance from the fire, it should be roasted gra- 
 dually, because, being of a very dry and hard nature, it requires, 
 being thoroughly done, and yet not dried up. 
 
 It should be sent to table with a good gravy in the dish, or melted! 
 butter, in both cases gravy should accompany it when served, and 
 also currant jelly. 
 
 The stuffing is composed of the liver, scalded and minced, sweet 
 herbs, parsley, bread crumbs, and suet, seasoned to the taste. 
 
 461. STUFFING FOB A HARE. 
 
 After having either scraped or scalded the liver, scrape some fat 
 bacon, a little suet, some parsley, thyme, knotted- marjoram, a little 
 shalot, a few crumbs of bread, pepper and salt, a few grains of nut- 
 meg, beat it all well in a mortar with one egg, if your hare is boned 
 it will take more. 
 
 You can dress a boned hare two ways, either taking each bone out 
 but the head, and the point of the tail, but this will not keep so 
 good a shape as if you only took out the back and rib bones, leaving 
 the shoulders and legs on; this way, when stuffed, will keep its 
 shape best. 
 
 462. JUGGED BABE. 
 
 Mrs. Glass has made the oft-quoted remark, "first catch your 
 
GAME, ETC. 147 
 
 hare ;" I say, only, as hares are easily procurable, that if an 'old 
 large hare be obtained, so much the better. When thoroughly 
 cleaned, cut it in pieces, not losing any blood that may appear, place 
 them in the bottom of ajar with sweet herbs, an onion, and a little 
 water, cover the top of the jar down close, so that the steam cannot 
 escape freely, place it in a vessel of boiling water, leaving the mouth 
 of the jar uncovered by the water, which must not be suffered to 
 stop boiling, stew four hours, remove whatever fat may have accumu- 
 lated, thicken with flour and butter, flavour with a glass of Port 
 wine. 
 
 463. JUGGED HAEE. 
 
 If the hare has not been completely roasted it will be the better 
 for the jugging, cut it into joints, and with a seasoning composed of 
 salt, pepper, cayenne, a little ground allspice, and a little mace. 
 Coat all the pieces well, lay them in a stone jar, put in the rind of a 
 lemon cut thin, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with four or 
 five cloves, twelve or fourteen ounces of gravy beef, and the bones of 
 the body of the hare, the last of all pour in three parts of a pint of 
 water, two glasses of good old port wine, and tie over the neck of 
 the jar closely. 
 
 Put it up to the neck of the jar into a saucepan of boiling 
 water, keep the water boiling, and be careful it does not stop boiling 
 for three hours, at the expiration of that time take it out of the water, 
 strain off the gravy, clear all the fat off carefully, thicken it, and 
 serve it very hot in a deep dish. 
 
 The jar may be baked in an oven instead of being put in boiling 
 water, in that case in an hour and a half it may be taken out, and 
 the gravy strained off. 
 
 In some parts of the country ale is put into the jar instead of 
 water, and two or three slices of lean bacon. Where that is done it 
 is usual to cut a few slices of bacon thin, and toast them before a- 
 brisk fire, and lay them curled aroundj the sides of the dish when 
 it is served. 
 
 464. ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Cut up the hare as above, lay the pieces in a stewpan, put in a few 
 cloves, allspice (whole), two onions, the rind of half a lemon, a 
 faggot of sweet herbs, some salt, black pepper, and cayenne, pour in, 
 enough cold water to cover it. Let it come to a boil, skim it, and 
 let it simmer until the hare becomes tender, strain off the gravy, 
 thicken it, pour in a glass of port wine, and having laid the hare in a, 
 deep dish, pour the gravy over it and serve. 
 
 A few forcemeat balls may be put in the dish with it. 
 
 465. — HASHED HABE. 
 
 Cut up the hare into small pieces, season it well, flour it, put it 
 into a good gravy, all that may be left from that which was sent to 
 
 1 2 
 
148 
 
 GAME, ETC. 
 
 table with it when roasted, put in the stuffing, let it simmer half an 
 hour, thicken the gravy, add a glass of old port, and serve. 
 
 466. FILLETS OF HABE. 
 
 Take off the fillets close to the bone, cut off the back skin; if to be 
 marinaded, lay them all night in a good marinade, see Beef a la Mari 
 nade; if not, flatten them, and lard them with bacon, and braise them; 
 serve with any sauce most preferred; the legs and shoulders will make 
 a leveret of hare jugged hare. 
 
 467. SENIT OF HARE. 
 
 The remainder of a hare left from a former day, cut it up in nice, 
 even, and small pieces ; the turnips boiled down for stock, with a faggot 
 of herbs, a blade of mace, three or four cloves, a piece of lean bacon 
 or ham, when you have got all the flavour out strain it through a 
 sieve into another stewpan, put in your pieces you have trimmed 
 with twelve button onions pared, and a little port wine ; boil half an 
 hour gently, then thicken it, make a rim three inches high of rolled 
 pie paste into a shape, bake it in the dish in a slow oven, egg it first; 
 put, when required, the ham and sauce into the rim. 
 
 468. HARES AND LIVERETS. 
 
 Be sure your hare has been killed some time, unless a coursed one, 
 which will be more tender, stuff it with a good veal stuffing, do not 
 forget to scrape the liver and add it to the stuffing, a slow fire will 
 .do it. Baste it frequently, or add fat bacon all over the back, well 
 floured, and a little salt the last thing, pour good gravy and melted 
 butter in the dish, and burnt jelly in the boat. 
 
 469 . HARE — POTTED . 
 
 Cut it up in pieces, sufficiently small to go into a jar, put in 
 -several slices of butter, bake it, and when' quite tender, take it out ; 
 cover it with plenty of seasoning, composed of cayenne, salt, all- 
 spice, and mace ; beat it well in a mortar with fresh butter and some 
 gravy, lay it into pots and cover it with clarified butter. 
 
 THE ORTOLAN. 
 
 The Ortolan is essentially a pet bird with the gourmet. The 
 present is by no means an inopportune moment for- sketching the 
 natural economy and cuisine of these " lumps of celestial fatness," as 
 ^theyjhave been fondly called by epicures. 
 
 The Ortolan is a species of Fringillidce : it is the Hortulanus of 
 Gesner and others ; Miliaria pinguescens of Frisch ; • Emberira 
 hortulana of Linnaeus ; Ortolano of the Italians generally ; Tordino 
 berlueeio of the Venetians ; Garten Ammer and Feltamer of the 
 Germans ; and Gerste Kneu of the Netherlanders. Willoughby writes 
 4he name Hortulane; and Montague terms it the Greenheaded 
 jBunting. ' 
 
GAME, ETC. 
 
 149 
 
 The French have a fanciful derivation of the name : they say it is 
 from the Italian word for gardener, which is from the Latin hortus 
 (garden) ; because, according to Manage, in Italy, where the bird is 
 common, it is quite at home in the hedges of gardens. 
 
 The male bird has the throat, a circle round the eyes, and a narrow 
 band springing from the angle of the bill, yellow ; these two yellow 
 spaces being separated by a blackish grey dash ; head and neck grey, 
 with a tinge of olive, and small brown spots ; feathers of the upper 
 parts, reddish on their edges, and black in the middle; breast, belly, 
 and abdomen reddish bay ; feathers terminating with ash-colour ; tail 
 blackish, a considerable portion of the two external feathers white on 
 their internal barbs; bill and feet inclining to flesh-colour; iris, 
 brown ; length, rather more than six inches. The female is generally 
 not so deep in colour as the male, and the breast, head, and neck are 
 marked with brown spots. There are also varieties marked white, 
 green, blackish, and entirely black. 
 
 The Ortolan is not famed for its song, which is, however, soft and 
 sweet. Like, the nightingale, with which it has also other points of 
 resemblance, the Ortolan sings after as well as before sunset ; and it 
 was this bird that Varro called his companion by night and day. 
 
 Ortolans are solitary birds : they fly in pairs, rarely three together, 
 and never in flocks. They are taken in traps, from March or April 
 to September, when they are often poor and thin ; but, if fed with 
 plenty of millet-seed and other grain, they become sheer lumps of fat, 
 and delicious morsels. They are fattened thus in large establish- 
 ments in the south of Europe ; and Mr. Gould states this to be 
 effected in Italy and the south of France in a dark room. 
 
150 GAME, ETC. 
 
 The Ortolan is considered sufficiently fat when it is a handful ; and 
 is judged by feeling it, and not by appearance. They should not be 
 killed with violence, like other birds ; this might crush and bruise the 
 delicate flesh, and spoil the coup d'ceil — to avoid which, the best mode 
 is to plunge the head of the Ortolan into a glass of brandy. 
 
 Having picked the hard of its feathers, singe it with the flame of 
 paper or spirit of wine; cnt off the beak, and ends of the feet ; do not 
 draw it ; put it into a paper case soaked in olive oil, and broil it over 
 a slow fire. It will not require such afire as would do a steak; slack 
 cinders, like those for a pigeon a la eravaudine, being sufficient ; in a 
 few minutes the Ortolan will swim in its own iat and will be cooked. 
 Some gourmands wrap each bird in a vine-leaf. Ortolans are packed 
 in tin boxes for exportation. They may be bought at Morel's, in 
 Piccadilly, for half-a-crown apiece. Mr. Fisher, of Duke-street, St. 
 James's, imports Ortolans in considerable nnmbers. 
 
 The south of Europe may be considered the summer and autumnal 
 head quarters of the Ortolan, though it is a summer visitor in the 
 central and northern parts. In Italy it is said to be common, by 
 Temminck and others. The Prince of Musignano states it to be 
 found in the Sabine mountains, but not commonly in the summer ; 
 and that it rarely occurs in the plains of Rome, but that it is frequent 
 in Tuscany. Lapland, Russia, Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, are 
 among tbe countries visited by it. In the British isles it seems only 
 entitled to rank as an autumnal visitor, but it may occur more fre- 
 quently than is generally supposed ; for, especially to an unpractised 
 eye, it might be mistaken for the yellow-hammer, and, in some states 
 of plumage, for other buntings. It has been taken in the neigh- 
 bourhood of London; in 1837 there was a live specimen in the 
 aviary of the Zoological Society in the Regent's Park ; and, during 
 this year, many Ortolans were sent alive to the London market from 
 Prussia. There is, however, some consolation for the rarity of the 
 Ortolan in England. It is approached in delicacy by our wheat-ear, 
 ■which in, for him, an unfortunate hour, was named the English Orto- 
 lan ; from which period it has been pursued as a delicate morsel 
 throughout all his island haunts. Bewick's figure was captured at 
 sea, off the coast of Yorkshire, in May, 1893. Every spring and 
 autumn it may be observed at Gibraltar, on its migration. Mr. 
 Strickland saw it at Smyrna in April. North Africa is its winter 
 residence. Colonel Sykes notes it in his Catalogue of the Birds of 
 Deccan. 
 
 A gourmand will take an Ortolan by the legs and crunch it in 
 delicious mouthfuls, so as absolutely to lose none of it. More deli- 
 cate feeders cut the bird in quarters, and lay aside the gizzard, which 
 is somewhat hard ; the rest may be eaten, even to the bones, which 
 are sufficiently tender for the most delicate mouth to masticate with- 
 out inconvenience. 
 
 Notwithstanding its delicacy, the Ortolan fattens very fast ; and it 
 is this lump of fatness that is its merit, and has sometimes caused it 
 to be preferred to the beccafico. According to Buffon, the Ortolan 
 was known to the Greeks and Romans, who understood fattening the 
 
GAME, ETC. 151 
 
 bird upon millet; but a lively French commentator doubts this asser- 
 tion. He maintains that, had the ancients known the Ortolan, they 
 would have deified it, and built altars to it upon Mount Hymettus 
 and the Janiculum ; adding, did they not deify the horse of Caligula 
 which was certainly not worth an Ortolan? and Caligula himself, who 
 was not worth so much as his horse? However, the dispute belongs 
 to the " Classics of the Table." 
 
 The Ortolan figures in a curious anecdote of individual epicurism 
 in the last century. A gentleman of Gloucestershire had one son, 
 whom he sent abroad to make the grand tour of the Continent, where 
 he paid more attention to the cookery of nations and luxurious living 
 than anything else. Before his return his father died, and left him 
 a large fortune. He now looked over his note-book, to discover where 
 the most exquisite dishes were to be had, and the best cooks obtained. 
 Every servant in his house was a cook ; his butler, footman, house- 
 keeper, coachman, and grooms, were all cooks. He had three Italian 
 cooks : one from Florence, another from Sienna, and a third from 
 Viterbo — for dressing one Florentine dish ! He had a messenger 
 constantly on the road between Brittany and London, to bring the 
 eggs of a certain sort of plover found in the former country. He was 
 known to eat a single dinner at the expense of £50, though there 
 were but two dishes. In nine years he found himself getting poor, 
 and this made him melancholy. When totally ruined, having spent 
 £150,000, a friend one day gave him a guinea to keep him from 
 starving; and he was found in a garret next day broiling an Ortolan, 
 for which he had paid a portion of the alms. 
 
 470. ORTOLANS TO EOAST. 
 
 They should be picked and singed but not drawn, put them on 
 skewers with bacon round them, tie them on the spit, when they are 
 done strew over with grated bread, or they may be split sideways, 
 with a bay leaf between, and the dish should be garnished all round 
 with fried bread crumbs. 
 
 471. ENGLISH ORTOLANS 
 
 Are also roasted without drawing, pick and singe them carefully, 
 and when they are roasted cover with bread crumbs. 
 They may be stuffed with forcemeat, or not, at pleasure. 
 
 472. PLOVERS. 
 
 These birds must not be drawn, roast them before a brisk fire, but 
 at a distance, serve on a toast with melted butter. 
 
 473. RUFFS AND REEVES. 
 
 Pick and singe them, but do not draw them, envelop them in 
 slices of fat bacon, they will be done in ten minutes ; send them to 
 table with a rich gravy in the dish. 
 
152 GAME, ETC. 
 
 474. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES 
 
 Should not be drawn, but have toast as for grouse under them, 
 passing out the tail, and chop it and spread it on the bird, lay them 
 under the heads in the dripping-pan. 
 
 475. WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES. 
 
 Roast them undrawn, serve them upon a toast, and take nothing 
 with them but butter. 
 
 476 BABBITS. 
 
 You will roast the same as hares, and if required to be stuffed, 
 melted butter, chopped parsley, and the liver chopped, pepper and 
 
 salt. 
 
 477. BABBIT. 
 
 Rabbits will form excellent side dishes, providing they are boned 
 neatly, larded, and braised, they may also be lined inside with bacon 
 cut in thin slices, the fatter the better, and a stuffing added, which 
 may be either the same as hare or veal. 
 
 478. — BABBITS. 
 
 Fillet those the same as fillets of hare, No. 466. You may if you 
 wish leave the fillet adhering to the leg when removed so far from 
 the back, turn it over upon the leg, and lard with bacon or truffles 
 that side, the bones are most excellent in your clear stock. 
 
 479. TO BOAST BABBITS. 
 
 The rabbit should hang in its skin from four to five days, as the 
 weather will permit, then skin it, make a strong seasoning of black' 
 pepper, ground allspice, cayenne, a little nutmeg, three parts of a 
 gill of vinegar, and the same quantity of port wine. Let it remain 
 in this pickle a day and a half, turning and rubbing it frequently ; 
 stuff it, and truss it as a hare, and serve with it the same sauce. 
 
 BABBIT BOASTED. 
 
 Truss it with the head on, blanch the liver, heart, and kidneys, and 
 chop them fine with a little parsley and shalot, and some pepper and 
 salt, put it into a little gravy and butter, and boil it a little ; either 
 put the sauce in a boat or in the dish under the rabbit. 
 
 480. BOILED BABBITS. 
 
 A rabbit should boil only twenty minutes, and boil slowly; if 
 larger than common an extra ten minutes may be allowed ; it should 
 be sent to table smothered in onion sauce, the water should be kept 
 free from scum. It is trussed for boiling differently to what it is for 
 roasting. 
 
GAME, ETC. 153 
 
 48 1.> — TO FKT BABBITS. 
 
 Clean and wash thoroughly, scald ten minutes, cut up into joints, 
 coat •with egg and bread crumbs, sprinkle over a little pepper and 
 salt, fry over a clear fire, a quarter of an hour 'will be enough ; serve 
 with a gravy made with the liver of the rabbit, and the gravy in 
 which the rabbit is fried, when done pour it into the dish, let it run 
 under the rabbit. 
 
 482. DRESSED RABBIT, FROM THE BAY BEFOEE. 
 
 Cut it into pieces, and put them into some good white or brown 
 
 483. RABBIT WITH ONIONS. 
 
 Truss your rabbit, and lay it into cold water, if for boiling pour 
 the gravy of onions over it, if you have a white stock pot on, boil it in 
 that. 
 
 484. RABBIT A LA FRAN§AISE. 
 
 Cut it into pieces, but save the liver, take a piece of bacon, cut it 
 in pieces, put it into a stewpan. and fry it brown ; take it out, and 
 place it in a plate ; put into the stewpan a piece of butter of the size 
 of a crown-piece, or twice the size of a walnut, and add the pieces of 
 the rabbit ; toss it well, when it begins to get brown sprinkle a little 
 flour over it ; keep turning it ; as soon as the flour becomes dry whip 
 it into a dish. Add to the sauce in the pan more butter, stir until 
 brown, then put in a tea-cupful of water, stir well, put in the bacon, a 
 small quantity of parsley and thyme, a bay leaf, plenty of small 
 onions, pepper and salt, and the rabbit. Stew slowly five hours. 
 Should the sauce decrease, add a little more water and a small lump 
 of butter. 
 
 485. FRICASSEE — WHITE OR BBOWN. 
 
 If a fresh rabbit, cut off the joints and the back, divide into 
 three or four pieces then fry them; if for brown, do the meat 
 brown ; if for white, do not brown, you will likewise do the same for 
 curries, then gently boil them in some good white stock, reducing 
 the same liquor, then add some bechamel sauce to it, or if for brown 
 coolie sauce, season with lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and salt, add 
 mushrooms if you have them. 
 
 486. — TO DO A CAPON OR FOWL. 
 
 Proceed precisely as in receipt, No. 388, but it will not take so 
 long a time to boil. 
 
 487. A SALMI OF GAME. 
 
 This dish may be made of any cold game, or old game ; if the 
 birds have not been dressed, only half roast them, remove all skin and 
 
154 GAME, ETC. 
 
 superfluous fat, indeed all fat wherever it appears, but preserve it as 
 it is to be used. The birds may either be cut in joints, and the body 
 divided in half, or it may be cut into smaller pieces ; lay them in a 
 stewpan with the skin and fat you have removed from the birds, a 
 blade of mace, a bay leaf, two eschalots sliced, a spoonful of pepper- 
 corns, add three parts of a quart of good veal gravy, and reduce it to 
 one pint ; strain it, and afterwards remove as much of the fat floating 
 at the top as practicable, a little more salt may be added as it requires 
 it, and some cayenne, return the game to it, clearing out all the 
 trimmings and seasonings, and let it gradually heat through, it must 
 not boil ; cut sippets of bread into half circles and dice, fry them in 
 butter, lay them tastefully round the dish in which you purpose put- 
 ting the hash, and then arrange the game tastefully in the centre, 
 before the fire, thicken the gravy, put in two glasses of sherry, and 
 pour it very hot but gently over the birds aud serve. 
 
 The French salmi is cooked much in the same fashion, but is more 
 decidedly a stew or hash, ham being cooked with it, and greater pro- 
 portions of eschalots, mace, &c There is a larger quantity of wine 
 added, and mushrooms are stewed in the gravy; the effect is that 
 French is much the richer dish of the twt>, while the character is the 
 the same. 
 
 The salmi may be made of partridges alone, or moor fowl, or 
 black cock, or all united, but it is as well to make it with birds of 
 high flavour. 
 
 488. — CUTLETS OF FOWL AND GAME. 
 
 The cutlets are of course larger from fowls, &c, than chicken^ 
 but they may be prepared in the same manner. The cutlets are 
 usually taken from the thighs, the wings boned, and from the fleshiest 
 part of the body. 
 
 The French serve them with sippets of bread fried a light brown, 
 and place each cutlet upon a sippet, pouring into the dish, but not 
 over the cutlets, a rich brown gravy. 
 
SALT AND FKESH WATER FISH. 
 
 155 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 SALT AND FRESH WATER EISH. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON CLEANING AND DRESSING ¥ISH. 
 
 Before dressing fish of any kind great care should be taken that it 
 is well washed and cleansed, but be cautious not to wash it too much, 
 as the flavour is much diminished by too much water. When boiling 
 fish put a little salt and a little vinegar into the water to give the fish 
 firmness. Be careful to let fish be well done, but not to let it break. 
 When very fresh, cod and whiting are very much improved by keep- 
 ing a day, and rubbing a little salt down the back-bone. Fresh-water 
 fish often have a muddy smell and taste, which is easily got rid of by 
 soaking it. After it has been thoroughly cleansed in strong salt and 
 water, if the fish is not too large, scald it in the same, then dry and 
 dress it. 
 
 Put the fish in cold water, and let it boil very gently, or the out- 
 side will break before the inside is warm. Put all crimped fish into 
 
156 SALT AND FEESH WATEE FISH. 
 
 boiling water, and when it boils up some cold water should be put 
 into it to check it and keep it simmering. All fish should be taken 
 out of the water the instant it is done, or it will become woolly. To 
 ascertain when it is done, the fish-plate may be drawn up, and, if 
 done, the meat will leave the bone. To keep it hot, and to prevent 
 it losing its colour, the fishplate should be placed across the fish- 
 kettle, and a clean cloth put over the fish. 
 
 Small fish may be nicely fried plain, or done with egg and bread 
 crumbs, and then fried. Upon the dish on which the fish is to be 
 served should be placed a damask napkin, folded, and upon this put 
 the fish, with the roe and liver ; then garnish the dish with horse- 
 radish, parsley, and lemon. 
 
 To broil or fry fish nicely, after it is well washed, it should be put 
 in a cloth, and when dry, wetted with egg and bread crumbs. It will 
 be much improved by being wetted with egg and crumbs a second 
 time. Then have your pau with plenty of boiling dripping or lard, 
 put your fish into it, and let it fry rather quickly till it is of a nice 
 brown and appears done. If it is done before being nicely browned,' 
 it should be taken from the pan, placed on a sieve before the fire to 
 drain and brown. If wanted very nice, put a sheet of cap paper to 
 receive the fish. Should you fry your fish in oil, it obtains a much 
 finer colour than when done in lard or dripping. Never use butter, 
 as it makes the fish a bad colour. Garnish your dish with green or 
 fried parsley. 
 
 In broiling fish, be careful that your gridiron is clean ; place it on 
 the fire, and when hot rub it over with suet to hinder the fish from 
 sticking. The fish must be floured and seasoned before broiling. It 
 must be broiled over a clear fire only, and great care must be taken 
 that it does not burn or become smoky. 
 
 Broiled fish for breakfast should always be skinned, buttered, and 
 peppered. 
 
 Fish are boiled, fried, broiled, baked, stewed, in fact cooked in 
 every imaginable fashion ; those named are the chief methods. In 
 every kind the greatest attention and cleanliness must be exercised. 
 A broken, disfigured, abrased, or ill-cooked dish of fish presented at 
 table, is quite sufficient to destroy the taste for it for ever ; on the 
 contrary, when neatly done it heightens the relish which every one 
 possesses more or less, and imparts an appetite where one may be 
 wanting, while the cook is held in grateful remembrance.' 
 
 489. A FEW CHOICE DISHES FOK TOP BEHOVES, ENTREES, 
 
 SALADS, ETC., COLD. 
 
 Plain and crimp cod. 
 Smelts fried. 
 Turbot and lobster sauce. 
 Brill and Dutch sauce. 
 Broiled mackerel and fennel sauce. 
 .* Boiled mackerel and fennel sauce. 
 Fried soles and shrimp sauce. 
 
SALT AND FKESH WATER PISH. 157 
 
 Boiled soles and anchovy sauce. 
 
 Doreys boiled and anchovy sauce. 
 
 Plaice boiled and anchovy sauce. 
 
 Gurnet boiled, stuffed, and anchovy sauce. 
 
 Gurnet baked, stuffed and anchovy sauce. 
 
 Pike boiled and stuffed and anchovy sauce. 
 
 Pike baked and stuffed and anchoyy sauce. 
 
 White bait fried. 
 
 Salmon boiled and broiled, and lobster sauce. 
 
 Salmon with capers. 
 
 Salmon cutlets. 
 
 Salmon in papers. 
 
 Salmon in quenelles. 
 
 Salmon in curry. 
 
 Soles boiled and broiled, and lobster sauce. 
 
 Fillets of soles, — Maitre d' hotel. 
 
 Fillets of soles, bread crumbed. 
 
 Fillets of veal rolled and stuffed. 
 
 Fillets of soles, quenelles. 
 
 Fillets of soles, curry. 
 
 Fillets of whitings, — Maitre d' hotel. 
 
 Fillets of whitings, bread crumbed. 
 
 Fillets of whitings, boudins. 
 
 Fillets of whitings, quenelles. 
 
 Fillets of whitings, curry. 
 
 Fillets of mackerel, — Maitre d' hotel. 
 
 Fillets of turbot, — Maitre d' hotel. 
 
 Fillets of turbot oyster sauce. 
 
 Slices of cod with capers. 
 
 Slices of cod with oyster sauce. 
 
 Slices of cod with curry. 
 
 Carp stewed. 
 
 Dorey stewed. 
 
 Mullet stewed. 
 
 Eels stewed and fried. 
 
 490. — MARINADE 
 
 Is most frequently used in France for boiling fish, but is not often 
 used in England, although it certainly gives to the fish an improved 
 flavour. Cut three carrots and four onions in slices, put them into a 
 stewpan with some butter, two bay leaves, a little thyme, and two 
 cloves ; set these on the fire ; when the carrots and onions are done, 
 add some parsley and shalots, a dessert-spoonful of flour, a glass of 
 vinegar, two of stock, salt, and pepper. Simmer the marinade for 
 three quarters of an hour, strain it through a horse hair sieve, and 
 set it by for use. In France two bottles of vin ordinaire are added, 
 but if the fish is large, and cut into fillets or steaks to be marinaded, 
 a quart of table beer should be substituted for the wine. Cider is 
 sometimes preferred to the wine or beer. 
 
158 SALT AND FKESH WATER FISH. 
 491. BAKBEL BOILED. 
 
 Boil them in salt and water, when done pour away part of the 
 water and add to the rest a pint of red wine, some salt and vinegar, 
 two onions sliced, a hunch of sweet herhs, some nutmeg, mace, and 
 the juice of a lemon, hoil these well together with two or three 
 anchovies, then put in the fish, simmer a short time, and serve it with 
 the sauce strained over it ; shrimps or oysters may be added. 
 
 492. BARBEL BROILED. 
 
 Do them in white pepper with sweet herbs chopped small, and 
 butter. 
 
 493. BABBEL STEWED. 
 
 Clean and wash a large barbel, first in vinegar and then salt in the 
 water, put it into a stewpan with eel broth, enough to cover it, add 
 some cloves and sweet herbs, a bit of cinnamon, let them stew gently 
 till the fish is done, then take it out and thicken the sauce with butter 
 and flour and pour over the fish. 
 
 494. — BBILL 
 
 Is cooked as a turbot in every respect, and the same sauces 
 suffice. 
 
 495. — cod — BOILED. 
 
 The thickness of this fish being very unequal, the head and shoul- 
 ders greatly preponderating, it is seldom boiled whole, because in a 
 large fish the tail, from its thinness in comparison to the upper part 
 of the fish would be very much overdone. Whenever it is boiled 
 whole, a small fish should be selected. Tie up the head and shoul- 
 ders well, place it in the kettle with enough cold water to completely 
 cover it ; cast in a handful of salt. The fish if a small one will be 
 cooked in twenty minutes after it has boiled, if large it will take 
 half an hour. 
 
 When enough, drain it clear of the scum, remove the string ; send 
 it to tableg arnished with the liver, the smelt, and the roe of the fish, < 
 scraped horse-radish, lemon sliced, and sprigs of parsley. 
 
 The garnish sometimes consists of oysters fried, or small fish 
 fried, or whitings ; this is at the option of the cook. 
 
 Anchovy or oyster sauce is served with it. 
 
 The tail, when separated from the body of the fish, may be cooked 
 in a variety of fashions. Some salt rubbed into it and hanging it two 
 days, will render it exceedingly good when cooked. It may be spread 
 open and thoroughly salted, or it may be cut into fillets, and fried. 
 
 If the cod is cooked when very fresh, some salt should be rubbed 
 down the back and the bone before boiling ; it much improves the 
 flavour ; or, if hung for a day, the eyes of the fish should be removed, 
 
SALT AND FKESH WATER FISH. 159 
 
 and salt filled in the vacancies. It will be found to give firmness to 
 the fish, and add to the richness of the flavour. 
 
 496. — cod sounds. — rag6ut. 
 
 The sounds should not be much soaked, but thoroughly cleaned, 
 simmer them for a short time, broil them, having first floured them ; 
 when they are just tender, stew them in white gravy which has been 
 well seasoned, add a little cream, a bit of butter, a spoonful of flour, 
 give it a boil, flavour with nutmeg, a small piece of lemon-peel, and 
 a dash of pounded mace ; serve. 
 
 497. — SLICES OF COD. 
 
 Three slices make a small dish; put them in a baking- dish, cover 
 them over with some good second stock, a little essence of anchovies ; 
 when done thicken the stock, and pass it through a tammy, pour it 
 over your fish, season with cayenne pepper, and salt, and lemon juice, 
 if for capers add them, if for maitre d' hotel add cream and parsley 
 chopped fine. 
 
 498. COD SOUNDS — BOILED. 
 
 If boiled, they should be first soaked in warm water, or scalded in 
 hot water ; the latter is the quickest, the former the surest method ; 
 they should soak half an hour if put into warm water, the dirty skin 
 should be removed, and when thoroughly cleaned boiled in equal parts 
 of milk and water until tender. They should be sent to table with 
 egg sauce. 
 
 499. — CRIMPED COD. 
 
 Cut the cod, which should be quite fresh, in handsome slices, and 
 lay.it for about three hours in spring water salted, a little vinegar 
 must be added, say one wine-glassful ; make a fish kettle more than 
 three partsvfull of spring water, in which a large handful of salt has 
 been thrown, let it boil quickly, put in the cod, keep it boiling for ten 
 minutes, it will then be enough ; take up the slices of fish with care, 
 and lay them upon a fish plate, garnish with sprigs of parsley, sliced 
 lemon, horse-radish scraped into curls ; serve with shrimp and oyster 
 sauce. 
 
 500. STEWED COD. 
 
 Cut some of the finest pieces from the thickest part of the fish, 
 place them in a stewpan with a lump of butter the size of a walnut 
 or larger, three or four blades of mace, bread crumbs, pepper, salt, a 
 small bunch of sweet herbs, and some oysters, with a little of then- 
 own liquor. When nearly done add a large wine-glass of sherry, 
 and stew gently until enough. 
 
160 SALT AND FRESH WATEK FISH. 
 
 501. — COD SCALLOPED. 
 
 Take enough cold dressed cod to nearly fill all the shells you pur- 
 pose using, pound it, beat up the yolk of an egg, and pour over it, 
 add a few shrimps skinned, salt, pepper, and a little butter ; do not 
 quite fill the shells, strew over them fine bread crumbs, and drop 
 butter in a liquid state over them. Brown them before the fire in a 
 Dutch oven. 
 
 502. — TAIL OF COD. 
 
 Boil as previously directed, and when sufficiently done, that the 
 meat may be easily removed from the bones, divide it into tolerable 
 sized pieces, and in a light batter fry them brown. Send up crisped 
 parsley with it as a garnish. 
 
 It is sometimes cooked plainly with oyster sauce, 
 
 503. — BAKED COD. 
 
 Cut a large fine piece out of the middle of the fish ; skin it care- 
 fully ; stuff it with a stuffing composed of the yolks of two eggs 
 boiled, hard, the roe half-boiled, bread crumbs, grated lemon peel, 
 butter, pepper, and salt, to taste. Bind it with the undressed white 
 of an egg, sew in the stuffing with white thread. Bake it in a 
 Dutch oven before the fire, turn it frequently, and baste it with 
 butter ; serve with shrimp sauce, plain butter, or oyster sauce. 
 
 A tin baking dish is preferable to any other for cooking this fish. 
 
 504. — cod's head. 
 
 Secure it well with strong string, not too thick ; put it into a fish- 
 kettle ; cover it with water; put in a small handful of salt, a wine- 
 glassful of vinegar, a quantity of scraped horse radish. Place the _ 
 fish upon a drainer, and when the water boils, put it into the kettle. 
 Boil gently ; when the fish rises to the surface, it is enough ; drain 
 it, and be very particular in sliding the fish into the fish-plate, that/* 
 it is not broken. '-"-- 
 
 Garnish with scraped horse-radish and lemon. Serve with shrimp 
 and oyster sauce. 
 
 505. — COD FISH PIE. 
 
 Take a piece from the middle of a good sized fish, salt it well all 
 night, then wash it, and season with salt and pepper and a few grains 
 of nutmeg, a little chopped parsley and some oysters, put all in your 
 dish with pieces of butter on the fish ; add a cup of good second 
 white stock and cream ; cover it with a good crust, add a little lemon 
 juice in the gravy. 
 
 506. — CUERY OF COD. 
 
 This is a firm fish if good ; when cold you can separate the flakes, 
 and proceed as before, adding two dozen of large oysters to your fish. 
 
SALT AND FRESH WATER PISH. 161 
 
 507. — SALT COD. 
 
 There are a variety of opinions upon the method of dressing this 
 dish, many labouring so hard with soaking and brushing, to produce 
 tenderness, but accomplishing that one end they completely destroy 
 all flavour. It is doubtless an essential point to remove the dry, un- 
 wholesome hardness of the fish, but it is equally essential to retain 
 the flavour, and experience has taught the author that the following 
 process is the most successful of any he has hitherto attempted : — 
 
 Soak the fish for eight hours in clean cold water (not spring water), 
 let the water have enough vinegar in it to impregnate it with a slight 
 flavour and no more, after soaking the above time take it out and.let 
 it drain three or four hours, then put in soak again for four hours, 
 •when this has been done, place it in a fish kettle with plenty of cold, 
 soft water, let it come to a boil very gradually, place it on the side of 
 the fire, and it will cook gradually until enough. Serve with parsnips 
 and egg sauce. 
 
 508. ANOTHEB WAT. 
 
 Wash and soak the fish, lay it twelve hours in water into which 
 two wineglasses of vinegar have been poured, put the fish in cold 
 water in the fish kettle, bring it gradually to a boil, and then boil 
 slowly until enough, take it out, drain it, break it into flakes upon a 
 dish, beat up boiled parsnips and pour over it, boil up with cream 
 and a good sized piece of butter rubbed in flour. Serve with egg or 
 parsnip sauce, if die latter send the root up whole. 
 
 509. CURBIED COD. 
 
 Cut some handsome steaks of cod, slice a number of onions, and 
 fry both a good brown colour, stew the fish in white gravy, add a large 
 teaspoonful of curry-powder, a third that quantity of cayenne pepper, 
 thicken with three spoonfuls of cream, a little butter, a pinch of salt, 
 and a little flour. 
 
 510. COD FKICASEED. 
 
 Take the sounds, scald them and cut them into small pieces, if 
 they have been dried boil them until they are tender, take some 
 roes and the liver, blanch the roes, cut them into pieces an inch 
 thick, and an equal quantity of the liver, boil for the middle a fine 
 piece of cod, put them into a stewpan, season with grated nutmeg, a 
 little pounded mace, an onion, a few sweet herbs, a sprinkle of salt, 
 and add half a pint of boiling water (fish broth is better if conveni- 
 ent), cover down close, stew for seven or eight minutes, then add 
 four glasses of port, six oysters, with the liquor strained, and a piece 
 of butter floured, stew gently, shaking the pan round occasionally 
 until they are enough, remove the onion and the herbs, dish up, gar- 
 nish with lemon, and serve. 
 
 M 
 
162 SALT AND FEESH WATJBfi PISH. 
 511. COD SOUNDS. BROILED. 
 
 Scald them, skin them, and, when perfectly dean, simmer them 
 until tender, take them out, dredge; them with flour, and broil them 
 over a clear fire. 
 
 During the time they are broiling, make a brown gravy, seasoned 
 •with salt and pepper, a spoonful of Harvey's sauce, one half that 
 quantity of mustard, thicken with a little flour and butter, boil it up 
 and pour it over the sounds. 
 
 512. COD OMELETTE. 
 
 Break into small pieces the thickest parts of a dressed cod, season 
 it with a little grated nutmeg and a little pounded mace, beat up six 
 eggs well and mix with it, forming it into a paste, fry it as an ome- 
 lette, and serve as hot as possible. 
 
 518. CARP, TENCH, PEBCH, &C. 
 
 Dry well with clean cloth, dredge with flour, fry them until they 
 are brown. If the pure flavour of the fish is desired, they should be 
 cooked as soon after being caught as possible, and as simply as above 
 described ; but if it is desired to make a dish, the fish may be placed 
 after having been fried in a stewpan, with a gill of port wine, the 
 same quantity of water, the juice of half a lemon, two dessert spoon- 
 fuls of walnut ketchup, half the quantity of mushroom ditto, or 
 powder, sprinkle with cayenne pepper, an onion stuck with cloves, 
 and a small horse-radish, from which the outer coat has been scraped: 
 stew until the gravy is reduced to a rich thickness, remove the fish, 
 strain the gravy as clear as possible, thicken it, and pour it over the 
 fish; serve. 
 
 514. — STEWED CARP. 
 
 Three carp will make a dish ; put them in a baking dish, out up 
 in thin pieces a carrot, turnip, onion, celery, a faggot of sweet herbs, 
 a bay leaf, a little mace, six cloves, whole pepper, some good second 
 stock, six anchovies, half a pint of port wine, boil all this together, 
 pour it over the carp while hot, put buttered paper over them, do 
 them in the oven ; when done strain off the stock from the fish and 
 thicken it, strain it through a tammy, add a glass more port wine, 
 season it with sugar, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and salt. 
 
 515. — DRESSED CRAB. 
 
 The white part of the crab forms a wall within the dish, the 
 
SALT ANP FKESH WATER FISH 163 
 
 yellow part of the crab is mixed with vinegar, mustard, &c, bo as to 
 form a pool within. 
 
 516. — DBESSED CRAB. 
 
 Get a large crab, take off the claws, then>pull off the body from the 
 shell, the white meat keep by itself, and the soft yellow meat by 
 itself, wash and trim the large back shell, then on one side put all the 
 white meat, and on the other side put the soft meat, dividing the two 
 with slices of cucumber or radishes. Crack the big bones or claws, 
 and lay them underneath the crab to stand upon. Dish it up on & 
 napkin. 
 
 517 CRABS — TO DRESS CRABS. 
 
 Scoop the meat from the shell, mix the meat into a paste with a 
 little vinegar, bread crumbs, grated nutmeg, and a little butter, or 
 sweet oil; return it into the shell, and serve. To serve this hot, 
 it should be heated before the fire, and served up with dry toast out 
 into large squares or dice, 
 
 518. — BAKED CRAB. 
 
 Bemave the meat from the shell, mix it with bread crumbs, about 
 one fourth will be sufficient ; add white pepper, salt, a little cayenne, 
 grated nutmeg, and half a dozen small lumps of butter, each about the 
 size of a nut; this last ingredient should be added to the fish after 
 it has been returned to the shell. Squeeze lemon juice over it ; lay 
 a thick coat of bread crumbs over all, and bake. 
 
 519.— -CRAY fish. 
 Boil them in vinegar, salt, and water ; when cold, turn each claw 
 to stick in the fan of the tail, when they will look like a frog ; dish 
 them upon parsley. 
 
 520. CEAY-1ISH IN ASPIC. 
 
 Take all the shells from the tails, wipe them ; set a little aspic 
 . JeHy to c<$J J 4ti your mould half an inch deep ; you may ornament 
 it if you 'like with white of eggs and truffles, and green French 
 beans, if so you must put alittle drop of jelly upon your design.'let 
 it get stiff, then go on filling your mould with the cray-fish, when full 
 fill in some more aspic, but you must be sure the jelly is not warm 
 or all your work of art will be lost ; turn it put with lukewarm water ; 
 put cucumber round, introducing slices of red turnip radishes. 
 
 521. — CHUB BOILED. 
 
 Put as much beer, vinegar, and water into a fish-kettle as will cover 
 the fish, a good quantity of salt and fennel ; scale, and cleanse a chub, 
 and when the water boils put in the fish, when it is sufficiently boiled 
 lay it on a board to drain, let it lie for an hour, put it in a pewter 
 
 M 2 
 
164 SALT AND FKESH WATER FISH. 
 
 dish over a chafing dish of coals, with melted butter, and serve it 
 very hot. 
 
 522. CHUB BROILED. 
 
 Scald the chub, cut off the tail and fins, wash it well and slit it 
 down the middle, make two or three cuts on the back with a knife, 
 and broil it on a wood fire, baste it all the time it is broiling with 
 fresh butter and salt and thyme shred small. 
 
 523. — cuery of fish a l'indienne for breakfast. 
 
 Take a crimped haddock and boil it quickly with a good bit of salt 
 in the water to make it firm ; boil two eggs hard, then slice them in 
 your stewpan with the finest pieces of the fish which you must have 
 ready washed and blanched, and well boiled in good broth until soft, then 
 strain the broth from the rice, if any left add it to the fish and eggs ; 
 add salt, pepper, and cayenne ; keep it hot, until wanted, then take 
 a large spoonful of very good bechamel sauce very thick, add a good 
 tea-spoonful of the best Indian curry powder, and a gill of good thick 
 cream, boil it five minutes, then pass it through a sieve or tammy 
 upon the fish and eggs, shake them quietly on the fire, it must be well 
 seasoned. I make it with turbot or soles left from a former dinner, 
 this makes a good dish for dinner, garnished with fillet, soles, or 
 whitings. This quantity is sufficient for ten persons. 
 
 524. CURRIES OF FISH 
 
 Are invariably made the same way as in receipt, No. 592, the only 
 difference is the fish of whatever sort you may have ; only some are 
 more tender than others, and without great care you will break the 
 pieces all to a mummy instead of being of a shape and quite clear 
 pieces. Dish either in a rice rim or in a mashed potato rim, either 
 way be sure to send up rice plain, particularly boiled for curries ia 
 general. Cut up two or three onions in thin slices, fry them a : nice 
 light brown, dry up the butter with curry powder, use some very good 
 white stock, boil it well, season it with sugar, cayenne, salt, and 
 lemon juice, strain all through a tammy cloth or sieve into a clean 
 stewpan, then put your fish into it shaking it gently, do not use a 
 spoon only to dish it with, boil it gently a short time. 
 
 . 525. — DRESSED JOHN dory. 
 
 This fish will require much less doing than the carp, but you will 
 proceed exactly the same, pouring the sauce over it. 
 
 526. JOHN DORY 
 
 Is dressed as turbot, and eaten with the same sauces. 
 
 527.— anguiijues a l'hollandaise. 
 Take two small lemons and remove the outer and inner skin as 
 
SALT AND FKESH WATER FISH. 165 
 
 closely as possible, divide them into as many portions as they will 
 separate without disturbing the juice, or if they should be sliced, use 
 either an ivory or a silver knife to divide them, lay them in a stewpan 
 with' one quart and half a pint of water, add a faggot of fresh full 
 leaved parsley, twenty corns of white pepper, a blade of mace, a little 
 cayenne, and a tea- spoonful of salt, let it gradually boil, put it aside 
 and simmer a quarter of an hour, suffer it to get cool, then add from 
 two to three pounds of eels skinned, -cleaned, and cut into equal 
 lengths, boil very gradually a quarter of an hour, take out the eels 
 and serve them with Dutch sauce. 
 
 The liquor may be divided into half, and thickened with half a pint 
 of cream, or with flour and butter seasoned with a little additional 
 pepper and salt, and poured over the fish when dished, in the latter 
 case it should be garnished with the lemon peel cut in small dice and 
 laidround the dish in company with the boiled parsley minced. 
 
 528. — COLLARED EELS. 
 
 The eels destined to be dressed as above should be the finest which 
 can be selected : the skin must not be removed, but the bone must 
 be carefully and cleverly extracted. Spread out the fish, and with 
 some finely chopped sage, parsley, and mixed spices, rub the fish well 
 over; then take some broad white tape, bind up the fish tightly; 
 throw a good handful of salt into the water in which it is to be 
 boiled, and a couple of bay leaves. Boil three quarters of an hour, 
 and if the fish be taken out and hung to dry for twelve hours, it 
 will be the better for it when served. Add to the water in which the 
 fish has been boiled a pint of vinegar, a little whole pepper, some 
 knotted marjoram or thyme. This pickle also should, after boiling 
 about twelve minutes, be suffered to stand as long as the eels are 
 recommended to be hung ; previous to serving the fish must be unrolled 
 so as to abrase the skin as little as possible, and put them into the 
 pickle. Send up in slices or whole, according to taste ; garnish with 
 parsley. 
 
 t 529. EELS BREAD CRUMBED. 
 
 Cut your fish, the size as before, dry and flour them and proceed as 
 for other fried fish, dish them on a napkin with fried parsley. 
 
 530. FRIED EELS. 
 
 Cut into pieces same length as above, cleaned nicely and well 
 dried; let them be coated with yolk of egg, powdered with bread 
 crumbs ; fry them brown; serve with parsley and butter. Garnish 
 with handsome sprigs of parsley. 
 
 531. — BOILED EELS. 
 
 Choose the smallest, simmer in a small quantity of water, into 
 which a quantity of parsley has been put. Garnish and serve with 
 same sauce as the last. 
 
166 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 
 
 582. — EELS STEWED. 
 
 , Procure six or seven large ones, and proceed, after having cut 
 tnem about three inches hi length, as for carp, leaving out the wine 
 until last, add in your sauce some very fine chopped parsley, and a 
 shalot, pour the sauce over the fish. 
 
 633. EELS — STRWED. 
 
 This is a dish frequently made for invalids, and to the taste of 
 many fitted always to appear on the table of an emperor : there are 
 various methods of stewing them, the simplest is always the best, 
 because, without exception, the flavour of the fish is preserved, when, 
 in too many cases, it is wholly destroyed by the number of ingre- 
 dients employed; indeed the skill of the professed cook is most 
 frequently exerted to give the various esculents, they prepare for the 
 table an opposite taste to that which they naturally possess. 
 
 To stew eels they should be cut in pieces about three inches long, 
 and fried until they are about half cooked ; they will be then brown: 
 let them get cold, take some good beef gravy, and an onion, parsley, 
 plenty of white pepper, a little salt, some sage chopped rery fine, 
 enough only to add td the flavour, a little mace, place the eels in 
 this gravy, and stew until they are tender : two anchovies may be 
 finely chopped and added, with two teaspoonfuls of mustard, already 
 made, some walnut ketchup, and a glass of red wine, serve with 
 sippets of toasted bread. Or after being stewed until tender, a 
 glass of port wine may be added, half a lemon squeezed into it; Strain 
 and thicken with butter and flour. 
 
 634.-^SPITCHCOCKED EELS. 
 
 There are several ways to spitehcock eels. They are either broiled 
 or stewed. To broil them, see that the gridiron is cleaned and 
 rubbed with suet, to prevent the adhesion of the skin of the fish, which 
 which must be suffered to remain on ; cut the eels, which should be 
 large, into lengths of six or seven inches, not less, and cnat them 
 well with yolk of egg. Pound in a mortar parsley, nutmeg, mace, 
 cloves, and pepper, this should be rubbed over the fish, and they 
 should be broiled a clear brown ; serve with melted butter, fish sauce, 
 employed according to palate. 
 
 535. — LAMPREYS. 
 
 Same as receipt, 528. 
 
 536. — GURNET OR GTJRKARD. 
 
 May be boiled as in receipt, No. 584, or may be baked in the same 
 manner as the receipt for pike. It may also be cooked without the 
 forcemeat and sent to table with plain melted butter and anchovy, 
 with a lemon and a little Dutch or brown caper sauce. 
 
SALT AND FEESH WATEB FISH. 167 
 
 537. HALIBUT. 
 
 May be cut in fillets and dressed as mackerel fillets. 
 
 538 . HALIB UT STEWED . 
 
 Put into a stewpan half a pint of fish broth, a table-spoonful of 
 ■vinegar, and one of mushroom, ketchup, add an anchovy, two good 
 sized onions cut in quarters, a bunch of sweet herbs, and one clove of 
 garlic, add a pint and a half of water, let it stew an hour and a 
 quarter, strain it off clear, put into it the head and shoulders of a 
 fine halibut and stew until tender, thicken with butter and flour, and 
 serve. 
 
 539. TO CURE FINNON HADDOCK. 
 
 Gut off the heads and clean them as in the receipt " to dry 
 haddocks," cover them with salt, and let them remain in it two hours, 
 brush them over with pyroligneous acid. Hang them for ten days or 
 a fortnight. In Scotland, they tie them in pairs on a string, and 
 bang them over peat which has been so much burned as not to emit 
 much smoke or heat, and in two or three hours they are fit to eat. 
 
 540. TO DRY HADDOCK. 
 
 Choose the finest you can obtain, clean them, remove the eyes, 
 the entrails, and the gills ; clear away also all the blood from the 
 backbone. Wipe them as dry as you can with a clean soft cloth, and 
 fill in with salt the spaces ■which contained the eyes, also rub in a 
 quantity in the inside of the fish, lay them in a cool place on a dry 
 flag-stone, or a piece of board for eighteen or twenty hours, then 
 hang them in a dry place. Four days will be found quite sufficient 
 to prepare them for eating. 
 
 541. TO DRESS DRIED HADDOCK. 
 
 They should be skinned, rubbed with egg, and rolled in new bread, 
 crumbs, lay them in a dish before the fire to brown, baste with butter, 
 and when well browned serve with egg sauce. 
 
 543. TO DRESS HADDOCKS. 
 
 Clean them very thoroughly, and take off the heads and the skin, 
 put them into boiling water, throw in two moderate sized handfuls 
 of salt, let them boil as fast as possible, and when they rise to the 
 surface (which they will do, if they have sufficient room), they are 
 done enough. They are sent to table with plain butter for sauce. 
 
 543. TO STEW HADDOCKS. 
 
 Bone, cut off the heads, tails, fins, and do the trimming neatly, of 
 two or three haddocks, or as many as are required, put them in three 
 pints of water, with a teaspoonful of pepper-corns, and a large onion, 
 stew slowly five-and-thirty minutes, strain the gravy off, take up the 
 
168 
 
 SALT AND.FKESH WATER FISH. 
 
 fish, dredge it with flour, fry it brown over a clear fire, and re-place 
 it in the stock; add half a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, squeeze in 
 half a lemon, a tablespoonful of ketchup, and. stew till the gravy is of 
 a rich consistency. 
 
 These quantities are for three haddocks. 
 
 544. — TO BAKE HADDOCK. 
 
 Cut off the heads, trim and bone them, season with pepper and 
 salt, chop very : fine a small quantity of mushroom, onion, and parsley, 
 spread it over the fish, lay on them small pieces of butter, and place 
 them in a dish with crumbs of bread, bake them from fifty minutes 
 to an hour, skim the gravy, and serve up in the same dish, as that 
 in which it was cooked. 
 
 545. — HADDOCK — TO BROIL. 
 
 Flour it, broil it a fine brown over a quick, clear fire, the higher 
 you are able to place the gridiron the better; serve with lobster sauce. 
 
 546. — HERRINGS. 
 
 Herrings are dressed in a variety of fashions; they are fried, 
 boiled, broiled, dried, potted, baked, smoked, pickled. 
 
 There are three sorts of herrings, fresh, salted, and red herrings, 
 they are cleaned like any other sort of fish, when fresh they are 
 boiled and served with melted butter, white sauce, &c; the salted 
 herring should be soaked; in cold water before it is cooked, this is 
 broiled, sometimes it is cut in pieces and eaten raw ; the red herring 
 is split down the back, the head and tail taken off, and the fish broiled 
 like the others, they may be also dressed in the following manner : 
 when they have laid in cold water some time, soak them in milk for 
 two hours, then split them down the back, have ready some melted 
 butter in which has been mixed basil and bay leaf minced small, the 
 yolks of two eggs, pepper, and nutmeg, rub the herrings well with 
 this bread, then broil them over a gentle fire, serve with lemon juice; 
 the best red herrings are full of roe, are firm and large, and have a 
 yellow cast ; of the fresh herrings the scales are bright, if good the 
 eye is full and the gill red, the fish should be stiff. 
 
 547. FRESH HERRINGS BAKED. 
 
 Wash the herrings in clear spring water, when they are thoroughly 
 clean' drain them, and then, without wiping them, lay them in a dish 
 or baking pan; pepper and salt them, chop finely two or three 
 onions, some parsley; thyme, and strew over them; cover them in 
 equal proportions of vinegar and small-beer ; tie them over, and let 
 them bake one hour in a slow oven. 
 
 They should be kept in the pickle, and make a pleasant dish 
 when cold. 
 
SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 169 
 
 548 FRESH HERRINGS BOILED. 
 
 Clean them, wash them over with vinegar, fasten the heads to the 
 tails, and put them in boiling water; they will take from ten to 
 twelve minutes. Garnish with parsley, and serve melted butter, in 
 ■which a table- spoonful of ketchup, a tea-spoonful of Chili vinegar, 
 and one of made mustard has been mixed while making. 
 
 549. FRESH HERRINGS — BROILED. 
 
 To broil them steep them first in vinegar and water, into which a 
 handful of salt has been thrown ; let them remain ten minutes, 
 take them out and broil them over a clear fire, (the bars of the 
 gridiron should be rubbed with suet, to prevent the skin of the fish 
 adhering to it.) Serve, garnished with parsley. They may be 
 eaten with melted butter, with a little mustard and vinegar in it, or 
 lemon juice instead of the latter, being preferable. 
 
 550. FRESH HERRINGS FRIED. 
 
 Slice small onions, and lay in the pan with the fish, or fry 
 separately, as judgment may dictate ; serve the fish with the onions 
 laid round them. The herrings are generally fried without the 
 onions, but those who are partial to this strongly flavoured vegetable, 
 will prefer the addition. 
 
 551. — TO POT HERRINGS. 
 
 Take from one to two dozen herrings according to the number you 
 purpose potting, choose them as large, fine, and fresh as you can. 
 Take two ounces of salt, one of saltpetre, two of allspice, reduce 
 them to an impalpable powder, and rub them well into the herrings ; 
 let them remain with the spice upon them eight hours to drain, wipe 
 off the spice clean and lay them in a pan on which butter has been 
 rubbed, season with nutmeg, mace, white pepper, salt, and one clove 
 in powder, one ounce each save the last; lay in two or three bay 
 leaves, cover with butter and bake gently three hours. 
 
 When cool, drain off the liquor, pack the fish in the pots intended 
 for their use, cover to the depth of half an inch with clarified butter, 
 sufficiently melted just to run, but do not permit it to be hot ; they 
 will be ready for eating in two days. 
 
 552. LOBSTER AS SERVED. 
 
170 SALT AND FKESH WATEB FISH. 
 
 The common mode of sending this excellent shell-fish to table is 
 very generally known. We subjoin a few uncommon modes. 
 
 553. — LOBSTER CURRIED . 
 
 Take the meat of a fine lobster, or two, if they should be small, 
 place in a stewpan two dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, add of 
 butter two ounces, an onion cut in very fine strips, and three dessert- 
 spoonfuls of fish stock. When they are stewed well, add the lobster; 
 simmer gently for an hour, squeeze in half a lemon, season with a 
 little salt. In the eastern method the expressed juice of spinach is 
 usually added. This is obtained by simply putting spinach, without 
 any water, into a saucepan, and when done enough, press out the 
 juice, and add it with butter, cayenne, and salt, to the gravy. Prawns 
 may be dressed in this fashion. 
 
 554. TO STEW LOBSTERS. 
 
 Extract from the shells of two lobsters, previously boiled, all the 
 meat ; take two-thirds of a quart of water, and stew the shells in it, 
 with mace, unground pepper, and salt. Let it boil an hour or more, 
 till you have obtained all that is to be got from the shells ; then 
 strain. Add the richest portions of the lobster, and some of the best 
 of the firm meat to some thin melted butter; squeeze a small portion 
 of lemon juice into it ; add a table-spoonful of Madeira, pour this 
 into the gravy, and when warmed it is ready to serve. 
 
 555. LOBSTER BUTTER. 
 
 The hen lobster should be selected, on account of the coral; take 
 out the meat and spawn, and bruise it in a mortar ; add to it a tea- 
 spoonful of white wine, season with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little 
 grated lemon peel ; add four ounces of fresh butter, slightly dusted 
 over with flour. Work this well together, and then rub it through a 
 hair sieve ; it should be kept in a cool place until ready to serve. j 
 
 556. TO ROAST LOBSTERS." 
 
 Take live lobster, half boil it, remove it from the kettle in which it 
 is boiling, dry it with a cloth, while hot rub.it over with butter, set it 
 before a good fire, baste it with butter ; when it produces a fine froth, 
 it is done : serve with melted butter. 
 
 557. — GRATIN OF LOBSTER. 
 
 Take out all the meat from a large lobster, then wash the body, tail, 
 and shells, if the lobster was first cut in half down the back, then dry 
 them and butter them, and sprinkle them with bread crumbs, chop 
 up the meat fine, and a little parsley and shalot, a few drops of 
 essence of anchovies, a spoonful of vinegar, cayenne pepper, and 
 salt, a little bechamel sauce, boil all well together, add a yolk of 
 
SALT AND FRESH WATER PISH. 171 
 
 egg, put it to cool, then fill your shells or paper cases, cover it with 
 hread crumbs and some pieces of butter, brown them in the oven, 
 dish on a napkin. 
 
 558 . — MACKEREL. 
 
 Cleanse the fish thoroughly inside and out, remove the roe carefully, 
 steep it in vinegar and water, and replace it ; place the fish in water 
 from which the chill has been taken, and boil very slowly from fifteen 
 to twenty minutes, the best criterion is to be found in the starting of 
 the eyes and splitting of the tail, when that takes place the fish is 
 done ; take it out of the water instantly, or you will not preserve it 
 whole. Garnish with fennel or parsley, and either chopped fine in 
 melted butter, serve up as sauce. Gooseberry sauce is occasionally 
 sent to table, but it does not suit every palate. 
 
 559. — MACKEREL PIE. 
 
 You may do the same as No. 505, but do not lay them in salt, and 
 use fennel and mint and parsley. 
 
 560. TO BAKE MACKEREL. 
 
 Open and cleanse thoroughly, wipe very dry, pepper and salt the 
 inside, and put in a stuffing composed of bread crumbs finely powdered, 
 the roe chopped small, parsley, sweet herbs, very few of the latter ; 
 work together with the yolk of an egg, pepper and salt to taste, sew 
 it in the fish, place the latter in a deep baking dish, dredge it with 
 flour slightly, add a little cold fresh butter in small pieces, put them 
 into an oven, and twenty-eight or thirty minutes will suffice to cook 
 them. 
 
 Send them in a hot dish to table, with parsley and butter. 
 
 56l. ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 After you have opened and cleaned them cut off the heads and 
 tails, rub pepper and salt into them, lay them in a deep dish with" 
 two bay leaves, a few blades of mace, a table-spoonful of whole 
 black pepper, pour over them just sufficient to cover them equal 
 portions of vinegar and water ; cover the dish with cartridge-paper, 
 and tie it down closely ; bake an hour in a slow oven. Serve with 
 melted butter and parsley, or fennel chopped fine hi it. This is an 
 excellent way when the fish is to be eaten cold. 
 
 562. TO BKOIL MACKEREL. 
 
 Cleanse it well, and cut with a sharp knife, a gash from head to 
 tail of the mackerel, just sufficient on one side to clear the backbone, 
 pass into the incision a little pepper (cayenne) and salt, moistened 
 with clarified butter, broil it over a clear fire, be particular that the 
 
172 SALT AND FRESH WATER PISH. 
 
 bars of the gridiron are well rubbed over -with' suet to. prevent the 
 skin of the mackerel adhering in turning; the sides being the thin- 
 nest part will be first done, take off the gridiron, and hold it in /remt 
 of the fire for five minutes, the back of the fish being next the fire, 
 and the fish will be thoroughly done ; this is the readiest and most 
 effective mode. 
 
 The sauce may be the same as for boiled mackerel, or sauce a la 
 maitre d'hotel. 
 
 363. — BROILED MACKEEEL. ' 
 
 Prepare by boiling a short time a little fennel, parsley, and mint ; 
 when done take it from the steaks, and chop all together fine, mix a 
 piece of butter with it, a dust of flour, pepper, and salt ; cut your fish 
 down the back and fill it with this stuffing ; oil your gridiron and oil 
 your fish ; broil them over a clear slow fire. Fennel sauce in a boat. 
 
 564. BROILED MACKEREL BONES. 
 
 Take the bones from the dressed fish, butter them and rub them 
 with mustard, cayenne pepper, and salt ; send up with the wine and 
 cheese. 
 
 565. FILLETS OF MACKEREL. 
 
 Take the fish in fillets from the bones lengthways, and divide 
 each into two or three pieces, according to the size of the fish. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan a pint of fish broth, if not seasoned in the 
 making sufficiently, add a little cayenne and salt to taste, chop 
 finely a little parsley, part of the rind of a green lemon, if to be 
 obtained, if not as young a one as can be got, add it to the broth, 
 lay on the fillets, stew ten or twelve minutes. About three minutes 
 before the fillets are done add one glass of port wine, one of Harvey's 
 sauce, half the quantity of soy, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon. 
 When the fillets are done, which will be observable in the disposition 
 of the thinner parts beginning to crack' ; dish tenderly, thicken the 
 sauce, add a little mixed mustard, and pour it over the fillets. 
 Garnish with pickles or fried bread sippets. 
 
 566. FILLETS OF MACKEREL. 
 
 Three good mackerel will make a dish ; cut each fillet into two, 
 chop some fennel, parsley, and mint very fine, put it into your saute- 
 pan with a piece of butter, fry it a little, then dress the fillets as 
 before, and proceed now as for the other fillets, adding the ingredients 
 you have in the saute-pan to your sauce. 
 
 567.— FILLETS OF MACKEREL. 
 
 The same as fillets of soles, in addition you will add chopped 
 fennel and mint, and if you have it a mushroom chopped fine, all 
 
SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 173 
 
 into your saut6-pan with the butter, the juice of a lemon and cayenne 
 and white pepper and salt. 
 
 568. — FILLETS BOILED. 
 
 Separate as before, place them in a stew-pan in lukewarm water, 
 put in a pinch of salt and a little parsley ; when they have boiled 
 five minutes they will be done ; this may be tried by seeing if the 
 flesh divides readily. Remove the scum as fast as it rises ; drain 
 the fillets before dishing them. Serve with parsley and butter. 
 
 569. TO FEY MACKEREL. A LA FEAK9AISE OR A LA MAiTRE D'HOTEL. 
 
 It may be observed, as a rule to prevent the too frequent repe- 
 tition of the same thing, that it is to be supposed the fish must be 
 thoroughly cleansed and gutted, unless directions to the contrary are 
 given : supposing then the fish have been cleaned and emptied, cut 
 off the tails, and with a sharp knife lay the fish completely open, 
 and remove the back-bone ; this feat should be skilfully performed, 
 or the appearance of the fish will be materially altered, and by no 
 means improved. Dry the mackerel thoroughly, sprinkle with pow- 
 dered salt and pepper, dredge with -flour, and when the lard in the 
 fryingpan is boiling lay them in, and fry them a clear brown. Serve 
 with melted butter, in which has been mixed one spoonful Harvey's 
 sauce, one ditto of mustard, and two of Chili vinegar, or boil half a 
 dozen small onions, and while boiling rapidly lay in a young cucum- 
 ber one minute, with a faggot of fennel and parsley. Chop the 
 latter finely, and cut the cucumber into shapes, add pepper and salt, 
 put them into a stewpan with a lump of butter for three or four 
 minutes, place the vegetables on the fish, and squeeze a large lemon 
 over them. 
 
 570. STEWED MACKEREL. 
 
 A marinade must be made, in which to stew the fish, consisting 
 of a pint of gravy, in which put chopped, almost to a paste, parsley, 
 fennel, and shalot, the latter not too plentifully ; two table-spoon- 
 fuls of ketchup, one of essence of anchovies, and a lump of butter 
 well floured, about the size of a walnut. Keep it stirring until it 
 boils, add one glass of port previous to boiling, pour it in by slow 
 degrees, and when it boils lay in the fish which has been thoroughly 
 cleansed and boned. Stew gently twenty minutes, do not exceed 
 that time. It will be found expedient to turn them when half 
 cooked, but do not attempt it if you cannot accomplish it cleverly, 
 for broken fish is sure to be the result. . Dish very carefully ; add 
 to the sauce a tea-spoonful of French mustard mixed, half a glass 
 of port wine, and the juice of half a lemon ; boil it up and pour over 
 the fish. 
 
 571. RED MULLET. 
 
 There are various ways of dressing this fish which has obtained 
 
174 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 
 
 the name of the sea woodcock, from the flavour as well as from the 
 peculiarity of dressing it without drawing. It must be washed in very 
 clean water and dried very thoroughly with a clean cloth, it must nei- 
 ther be scaled nor gutted. Make paper cases of foolscap well buttered, 
 put the fish in them, as many as you purpose cooking, each fish having 
 a separate case, and broil them over a clear fire. The paper may be 
 securely but not violently fastened over the fish with twine. Twenty- 
 five minutes will suffice to cook them. 
 
 Make a sauce of melted butter, two tea-spoonfuls of essence of 
 anchovies, as much cayenne as will cover a sixpence, the juice of a 
 quarter of a lemon, and a glass of red wine. 
 
 It is customary to send this fish to table in its proper case, the 
 wine must therefore be removed, and a small fringe of white paper 
 affixed to the tail end of each case for appearance, but at very recherche 
 dinners, the fish are served on very hot plates without any covering. 
 
 573.— BED MULLET. 
 
 If in paper yon wiH wrap each fish in paper, four will make a small 
 dish ; then lay them on your baking dish and put them in the oven, 
 there will be a good deal of liquor come from them, thicken this 
 liquor, and if not sufficient for sauce add a little of your best stock, 
 two glasses of Madeira, a spoonful of essence of anchovies, lemon 
 juice, cayenne pepper, salt, a little sugar; if sent up in the papers 
 the sauce will be put in a sauce-boat, if not you will pour the sauce 
 over the fish. 
 
 573. — BED MULLET. 
 
 Clean it, but do not take out the inside, fold in oil paper, and 
 gently bake in a small dish; make a sauce of the liquor which 
 comes from the fish, adding a bit of butter, a little flour, a little 
 essence of anchovies, and a glass of sherry; give it a boil, and serve 
 it in a sauce boat, and serve the fish in the paper cases. 
 
 574. — GEEY MULLET. 
 
 This is a fish of a very different flavour and character to the prece- 
 ding. It maybe boijed, broiled, roasted, or baked; when small it 
 may be cooked in the usual fashion of dressing such fish as whitings 
 &e. — if large it may be cooked as cod or salmon. 
 
 575. OYSTERS X LA IMPEBIALE. 
 
 Procure of a .fishmonger a barrel of oysters, packed as for trans- 
 mission to the country. Put into a vessel large enough to contain 
 the barrel sufficient water, that when the barrel is in, it may be 
 covered. Heat the water to a boil ; when it is boiling, put in the 
 barrel of oysters just as you have received it from the fishmongers ; 
 let it boil twelve minutes ; take it out, knock off the head, and serve 
 immediately. The flavour of the hot oystej will be found delicious. 
 
SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 175 
 
 676. — SCALLOP OYSTEKS. 
 
 Wash clean some bottom shells of the oysters if you have not silver 
 shells or scallop shells, hutter and bread crumb them, blanch your 
 oysters, either do them whole or cut them, make a thick sauce with 
 the liquor adding a good spoonful of white sauce, season with cayenne 
 pepper and salt, fill in the shells and bread crumbs on the top, and 
 sprinkle clarified butter on the tops, brown in the oven — dish them 
 upon a napkin. 
 
 I 577. BOAST OYSTERS. 
 
 Large oysters not opened, a few minutes before they are wanted, 
 put them on a gridiron over a moderate fire. When done they will 
 open, do not lose the liquor that is in the shell with the oysters, send 
 them hot upon a napkin. 
 
 578. AN OYSTER PIE, WITH SWEETBREADS. 
 
 Blanch them and take off the beards, separate them from the 
 liquor, blanch some throat sweetbreads, and when cold cut them in 
 slices, then lay them and the oysters in layers in your dish, season 
 with salt, pepper, a few grains of mace and nutmeg ; add some thick 
 sauce, a little cream, and the oyster liquor, and some good veal stock; 
 bake in a slow oven. 
 
 579. — STEWED OYSTERS. 
 
 The oysters should be bearded and rinced in their own liquor, 
 which should then be strained and thickened with flower and butter, 
 and placed with the oysters in a stewpan ; add mace, lemon peel cut 
 into threads, some white pepper whole ; these ingredients had better 
 be confined in a piece of. muslin. The stew must simmer only, if 
 it is suffered to boil the oysters will become hard; serve with sippets 
 of bread. This may be varied by adding a glass of wine to the 
 liquor, before the oysters are put in and warmed. 
 
 580. SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 
 
 Beard the oysters, wash in their own liquor, steep bread crumbs 
 in the latter, put them with the oysters in to scallop shells, with a 
 bit of butter and seasoning of salt, pepper, and a little grated nut- 
 meg; make a paste with bread crumbs and butter; cover, and roast 
 them before the fire, or in an oven. 
 
 581. — OYSTERS. 
 
 If eaten immediately upon being opened, neither vinegar nor pep- 
 per should be taken with them, or the flavour will disappear in the 
 taste of the vinegar. 
 
 582. — OYSTER FRITTERS. 
 
 Beard, dip them into an omelette, sprinkle well with crumbs of 
 bread ; fry them, brown. 
 
176 SALT AND FBESH WATER FISH. 
 
 583. — JACK OE PIKE TO CHOOSE. 
 
 If the fish is fresh the gills will be red, the fish stiff, and eyes 
 bright; the best sort are caught in rivers, the worst are caught in 
 ponds ; it is a very dry fish, and very much improved by stuffing and 
 sauce ; they are not thought much of in England, but are much liked 
 in inland counties. 
 
 584. — TO BAKE PIKE. 
 
 Clean and empty it thoroughly, but do not disturb the scales in the 
 operation, stuff it with oyster forcemeat, and skewer the tail to the 
 mouth, sprinkle over it a little salt, and dredge a little flour, stick 
 small pieces of . butter all over it, and bake in a steady oven forty to 
 fifty minutes ; you must be regulated by the size of the fish. To the 
 sauce which will be found in the dish when the pike is done, a little 
 melted butter with a spoonful of essence of anchovies may be added, 
 and a small quantity of grated lemon peel or lemon. pickle, also a 
 table-spoonful of sherry, one of Harvey's sauce, and a little cayenne, 
 will render the gravy exceedingly pleasant. 
 
 585. — pike — TO BOJX. 
 
 Wash and clean the fish thoroughly, unless you are very par- 
 ticular you will not conquer an earthy taste, which from a want 
 of the proper application of the cook's art, too often appears. It is 
 usual to stuff it with forcemeat, more for the purpose of destroying 
 that peculiarity than from any additional flavour or zest it gives the 
 fish. Having cleaned well and stuffed with forcemeat, skewer the 
 head to the tail, lay it upon a drainer andjput it in the fish kettle, let 
 it have plenty of water into which you may throw a handful of salt 
 and a glassful of vinegar ; when it boils remove the scum as fast as 
 it rises, it will take three quarters of an hour if a tolerable size, if 
 very large an hour, if small half an hour ; serve with melted butter' 
 and lemon sliced or whole. Some persons prefer anchovy sauce, some 
 Dutch ; they may each be eaten with the fish. It is always the best 
 method where a variety of fancies, each not in itself incorrect, are 
 applied to the use of various sauces, to send the sauce cruets to table 
 and permit every one to gratify his peculiar taste. 
 
 586. — PRAWNS. 
 
 If you have no lemon for garniture, get the dish they are to go upon 
 and likewise another of the same size, turn one bottom upwards,, then 
 dish your prawns one by one with the heads inwards upon their backs 
 touching each other ; when you have got quite round the bottom of 
 the dish, take a handful of tightly squeezed picked parsley, and put 
 into the middle, take the other dish, and put onto it holding it tight 
 with your finger and thumb, turn if over, take off the dish, Add then 
 some more upon them, use cucumber or parsley round them. ; , 
 
SALT. AND FRESH WATER FISH. 177 
 
 . [ 587. — PBAWNS — TO BOIL. 
 
 Prawns require plenty of boiling water, when the water boils add a 
 quarter of a pound of salt for each three quarts of water, let the water 
 boil very fast, clear off the scum and toss in the prawns, keep them' 
 boiling as fast as you can for seven or eight minutes ; take them out 
 and drain them, keep them in a cool place. They are sent to table 
 on a napkin with % dry toast and fresh butter, or brown bread and 
 butter in shoes 
 
 588. — PBAWNS, 
 
 Dish them upon a large lemon, sticking the horn on the head into 
 the lemon, beginning from the bottom and keep going round until, 
 you get at the top, introduce a few purees of parsley between, put the 
 lemon upon a napkin or cut paper. 
 
 589, 
 
 When in perfection they have an excellent smell, and their flavour 
 is very sweet, they are firm and stiff, the tails which turn inwards 
 particularly. When the prawns are fresh their colour is very bright, 
 but if stale they are pale and clammy to the touch. 
 
 590. — plaice 
 
 And Flounders should be sprinkled with salt, and wrapped in a 
 towel an hour previous to cooking, and be fried as soles, &c. 
 
 591. PBAWNS TO SERVE. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of fine prawns ; pick, and trim them 
 neatly; have ready a deep dish or soup plate, the centre of which fill 
 with any sort of salading you please, provided it has no smell ; cover 
 this with a large napkin, folded square, and the corners turned down, 
 so as to form an octagon, leaving no more than the border of the 
 plate or dish visible. Place a handful of nice green parsley on the 
 napkin, and the prawns in a pyramid on it. 
 
 592. DEESSF.D SALMON." 
 
 All salmon whether crimped, split, or in slices, let them go 
 through the same process in dressing, you can differ your sauces as 
 may be most approved of. 
 
 Put your salmon either in your fish kettle or a large baking dish, 
 if a dish you must cover it with buttered paper, and frequently baste 
 it with the marinade, which is made thus ; — cut a carrot, turnip, 
 celery,' onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, whole 
 pepper,' six cloves, a bay leaf, six anchovies, a cup of vinegar, a quart 
 of good brown: second stock, two glasses of sherry; — then put on 
 your salmon, letting it stew until done, then drain off all the stock 
 from the fish, and thicken it and strain it through a tammy; if for 
 
178 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH, 
 
 capers, add them in the sauce you have put through the tammy and 
 boil it for some time removing all grease that rises, season with 
 lemon juice, cayenne pepper, salt, and sugar, if required a little 
 essence of anchovies. Pour this sauce over the fish. 
 
 Get about two pounds of salmon rather thick part, and with a 
 sharp knife cut it as you would as near as possible the shape'Of cutlets, 
 have ready a saute-pan with some clarified butter and a little cayenne 
 pepper, pass each cutlet through the butter ; when you have filled 
 the pan with about sixteen cutlets, if for a corner dish that is 
 sufficient, cut a paper round and butter it and put it over your cutlets, 
 then put them either in your oven or on your hot plate or stove, be 
 Careful in turning them, take them out of the saute-pan or paper to 
 dry away the grease, have some good brown sauce ready; after taking 
 off the fat from what they were done in, put the remainder good into 
 your sauce, add a few drops of anohovy sauce, lemon juioe, a little 
 sugar, a glass of wine, boil well fur some time, dish your cutlets one 
 on the other round, either glaze them or pour the sauce over them. 
 
 593. — CRIMPED SALMON — A LA CEEMK. 
 
 The salmon, like cod, must be quite fresh or it will not crimp. Out 
 the body into slices about two inches thick ; have ready some salt and 
 water in the proportion of three ounces of salt to a quart of water, 
 with the smallest knob of saltpetre about the size of a nut, dip the 
 salmon slices into this as they are cut, hold them for half a minute, 
 and then rinse them in clear cold spring water and lay them upon a 
 dish, put a lump of butter well rubbed in flour into a stewpan, while 
 the butter is melting sprinkle in a little salt and cayenne, and when 
 the butter is on the simmer stir in half a pint of cream, keep stirring, 
 and as it boils squeeze in the juioe ef a quarter of a lemon, and stir 
 in a large tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, add a little more salt 
 to taste. 
 
 Having boiled the crimped salmon in quick boiling water tea 
 minutes, take them out and let them drain one minute, put them in 
 a clean stewpan and pour over the prepared cream and let it simmer 
 ten minutes, it should not if possible be suffered to boiL 
 
 The lemon juice is sometimes deferred until the fish is removed 
 from the cream, a minute's simmer is allowed, and it is then all 
 poured over the salmon and sent very hot to table. 
 
 594. — tfO DRY SALMON. 
 
 Open the fish, remove the whole of the inside, including the roe. 
 Scald, it, and then rub it with common salt ; hang it to drain from 
 twenty-four to thirty hours. 
 
 Mix well two ounces of Foot's sugar, the same quantity of hay 
 salt, three ounces of salpetre ; rub the mixture thOTo^ghbr into the 
 salmon ; pkoe it upon a dish, and suffer it to remain for forty-eight 
 hours, and itheu rub it with common salt. Let it remain until the 
 succeeding evening, it will then he ready to dry. Wipe it thoroughly 
 
SALT AND FBESH WATER FISH. 179 
 
 after drying; spread it open with two sticks, and hang it in a 
 chimney where a wood fire is burned. 
 
 595. SALMON POTTED. 
 
 Cut a handsome piece from the middle of the salmon ; remove the 
 scales, and wipe it with a clean cloth. Rub into it some common 
 salt thoroughly. 
 
 Beat up some mace, cloves, and whole pepper ; season the salmon 
 with it ; place it in a pan with a few bay leaves ; cover it with 
 butter, and bake it until thoroughly done ; remove it from the gravy , 
 letting it drain thoroughly, then place it in the pots. Clarify suf- 
 ficient butter to cover all the pots after the salmon has been put into 
 them: put it to cool. 
 
 596. — TO TICKL1S SALMON. 
 
 Scale, clean, split, and divide into handsome pieces the salmon ; 
 place them in the bottom of a stewpan, with just sufficient water to 
 cover them. 
 
 Put into three quarts of water one pint of vinegar, a dozen bay 
 leaves, half that quantity of mace, a handful of salt, and a fourth 
 part of an ounce of black pepper. 
 
 When the salmon is sufficiently boiled remove it, drain it, place it 
 upon a cloth. Put in the kettle another layer of salmon ; pour over 
 it the liquor which you have prepared, and keep it until the salmon 
 is done. Then remove the fish, place it in a deep dish or pan, 
 cover it with the pickle, which, if not sufficiently acid, may receive 
 more vinegar and salt, and be boiled forty minutes. Let the air be 
 kept from the fish, and, if kegt for any length of time, it will be 
 ibund necessary to occasionally drain the liquor from the fish, skim, 
 and boil it. 
 
 J 397, — COLLABED SALMON. 
 
 Cut off the head and shoulders and the thinnest part of the tail, 
 thus leaving the primest part of the salmon to be collared. Split it, 
 and having washed and wiped it well, make a compound of cayenne 
 pepper, white pepper, a little salt, and some pounded mace. Rub 
 the fish well with this mixture inside and out ; roll, and bandage 
 with broad tape, lay it in a saucepan, cover it'with water and vinegar, 
 •one part of the latter to two of the former; add a- table-spoonful of 
 pepper, black and white whole, two bay leaves, and some salt. Keep 
 the lid closed down. Simmer until enough, strain off the liquor ; let 
 it cool, pour over the fish when cold ; garnish with fennel. 
 
 3°8. — SALMON — TO BOIL. 
 
 This fish cannot be too soon cooked after being caught ; it should 
 be put into a kettle with plenty of cold water, and a handful of salt, 
 the addition of a small quantity of vinegar will add to the firmness 
 
 N 2 
 
180 SALT AND FKESH WATER FISH. 
 
 of the fish ; let it boil gently; if four pounds of salmon fifty minutes 
 •will suffice ; if thick a few minutes more may be allowed. . The best 
 criterion for ascertaining whether it be done, is to pass a knife between 
 the bone and the fish, if it separates readily, it is done ; this should 
 be tried in the thickest part ; when cooked lay it on the fish strainer 
 transversely across the kettle, so that the fish, while draining, may be 
 kept hot. Place a fish plate upon the dish on which the salmon is to 
 be served, fold a clean white napkin, lay it upon the fish plate, and 
 place the salmon upon the napkin. Garnish with parsley. 
 
 599. SALMON EN PAPILLOTES. 
 
 r Get small, slices of salmon, (See 524), fold them neatly in foolscap 
 paper, after having buttered your paper well, pepper and salt the paper 
 and flour it. I generally put them in the oven for a short time, then 
 do them on the gridiron over the stove ; in this case dish as usual on 
 a napkin, and send your sauce in a boat made as either of the former 
 sauces, unless shrimp, lobster, or anchovy sauce is preferred. 
 
 600. SALMON BROILED. 
 
 Cut the fish in slices from the best part, each slice should be an 
 inch thick ; season well with pepper and salt ; wrap each slice in 
 white paper, which has been buttered with fresh butter ; fasten each 
 end by twisting or tying ; broil over a very clear fire eight minutes. 
 A coke fire, if kept clear and bright, is best. Serve with butter, 
 anchovy, or tomata sauce. 
 
 601. DRIED SALMON BROILED. 
 
 Cut and cook as above, save that 'when it is warmed through it is 
 enough. Serve plain for breakfast, or with egg sauce if for 
 o inner. 
 
 602. — SALMON ROASTED. 
 
 Take a large piece of the middle of a very fine salmon, dredge 
 well with flour, and while roasting baste it with butter. Serve, gar- 
 nished with lemon. 
 
 603. STEWED SALMON. 
 
 ' Scrape the scales clean off, cut it in slices, stew them in rich white 
 gravy, add immediately previous to serving one table-spoonful of 
 essence of anchovies, a little parsley chopped very fine, and a pinch 
 of salt. 
 
 604. QUENELLES OR PUDDING. 
 
 Use any salmon you may have left, pick it free from all bones and 
 -skin, put a crumb of a French roll or some light crumb of bread in 
 half a pint of milk, a sprig of parsley, a small chalot, or onion, put 
 
SALT AND FEESH WATER FISH. 181 
 
 it all to boil until dried up, stir it and keep it from burning, then put 
 it to get cold; pound the salmon well, then add the boiled fat, taking 
 out the ouion and parsley, put about two ounces of butter with it, 
 pound all well, then rub it through a wire seive, when done return it 
 back into the mortar, and add, according to the quantity, two yolks of 
 eggs and one whole egg, a little essence of anchovies, cayenne pepper, 
 a little white pepper, salt, and a dust of sugar. Have a stewpan of 
 boiling water ready, take out a piece and boil it to see if it is light 
 or does not drop to pieces ; have your small or large moulds ready 
 and well buttered, six small ones make sufficient for a dish ; if for a 
 corner, put buttered paper over each mould. To stew them have a 
 stewpan sufficiently large to hold them, line the bottom with paper, 
 and only put sufficient water to come half up the mould, mind the 
 cover fits quite close, and be sure it boils, then put them in ; the small 
 ones will take about half an hour, when done drain the grease well 
 from them, before dishing them pour the sauce in the middle. 
 
 605. PUDDING OK QUENELLES. 
 
 You will proceed as before with salmon if from dressed fish ; if from 
 other fish scrape all the meat from the skin and bones, and use two 
 filleted anchovies pounded with the fish instead of any essence, and it 
 will take longer to stew than dressed fish, the sauce as for fillets of 
 soles, leaving out the chopped parsley. 
 
 606.— SOLES. 
 
 Soles should be skinned and trimmed by the fishmonger. If fried 
 plain, dry them well with a clean cloth, flour them with a dredge, the 
 pan should be well cleaned, and a quantity of lard placed in it, 
 it should be boiling hot, before the fish is placed into the pan brown 
 them nicely, dish with care ; or they may, instead of being floured, 
 be coated with the yolk of eggs beaten up with bread crumbs, previous 
 to frying, they should be a light but not a pale brown when cooked. 
 
 607. — SOLES — BOILED. 
 
 _ Choose a large thick sole, wash and clean thoroughly without 
 disturbing the roe or the melt, lay it in a fish kettle with enough cold 
 water to cover it, throw in a handful of salt, let it come gradually to 
 a boil, and having kept the water well skimmed, place the kettle by 
 the side of the fire, and in eight minutes the sole will be sufficiently 
 cooked to^ dish, serve with shrimp sauce, cucumber sliced and 
 dressed. 
 
 608. FILLETS, BREAD CRUMBED. 
 
 The fillets you will roll up and fasten together with a small 
 skewer or fine string round them ; proceed exactly as for bread 
 crumbed soles, they will take a little longer to fry, stand them 
 up endways to dish them whether for garnish or a dish ; be sure to 
 draw out the skewer or the string. 
 
182 SALT AND FRESH WATEE FISH. 
 
 609. FILLETS OF SOLES MAKE A GOOD PIE. 
 
 Cut each fillet in half and lay them in your dish, season with pepper 
 and salt, and a layer of oysters, ehopped parsley, and some oyster 
 liquor, with some good stock, or white sauce into the dish is best, add 
 a gill of cream. 
 
 610. — SOLES A LA PORTUGUESE. 
 
 Split two small soles or cut one large one in half and hone it, fry 
 the fish slightly in a pan with a bit of butter and a squeeze of lemon 
 juice, take it out and place on each piece of fish a layer of stuffing, or 
 forcemeat, roll it up leaving the head for the outside, secure each 
 roll with a small skewer. 
 
 Lay them in a pan, an earthenware one will be found the best ; 
 moisten them with a well beaten egg, and cover them with bread 
 crumbs. 
 
 To a cup-full of meat gravy put one table-spoonful of essence of 
 anchovy and some minced parsley, mix with it the remains of the 
 egg used to moisten the rolls with, and pour it over them, then cover 
 down closely and bake in a slow oven until the fish are done, they 
 will take about twenty minutes. Lay the rolls in a very hot dish with 
 the heads to each other, skim the gravy cleanly and quickly, pour it 
 Over them and. serve. 
 
 Garnish with fried parsley. 
 
 611. SOLES ATJ PLAT. 
 
 Bone the soles, trim them, take off the heads and lay them in a 
 dish in which you have poured about two ounces of clarified butter, a 
 table-spoonful of white broth, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, half 
 a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, some parsley chopped as finely 
 as possible, and a sprinkling of cayenne pepper. Previously to laying 
 the soles upon this compound, brush them over lightly with the yolk 
 of an egg, and strew finely powdered bread crumbs over them ; bake 
 them twenty minutes in a slow oven, serve in the dish with the 
 sauce. 
 
 612. FILLETS OF SOLES, MAITRE d'hoTEL, 
 
 Get four good sized soles filleted, beat each fillet with your cutlet 
 heater, dipping your cutlet beater into cold water frequently ; then 
 cut each fillet into three, rounding one end and leaving the other as 
 a point to form a cutlet; have ready about a quarter of a pound of 
 clarified butter in a saute-pan, and the juice of two lemons, cayenne 
 pepper, and salt, mix well together, dip each cutlet as you cut it both 
 sides in this, keeping the cutlets in the sauti-pan ; about twenty four 
 cutlets will make a corner dish, paper them over, and either do them 
 in the oven or. on the stove ; when done take them out of the saute\ 
 pan to drain, keep them hot until you dish them ; the bones and 
 trimmings with what js left in your saute-pan make the sauce from; 
 put all your trimmings into a stewpan with a quart of stock, four 
 
SALT AND FRESH WATER PISH. 183 
 
 anchovies,, reduce it down to half a pint, thicken it, and strain it 
 through a tammy into a clean stewpan, add a gill of cream, have 
 ready some very fine chopped parsley to sprinkle over the last thing, 
 pour the sauce over your fish. Dish as cutlets. 
 
 613. FILLETS OF SOLES FEIED, TO GO BOUND OTHER FISH. 
 
 Cut and prepare your soles as before, only laying each cutlet in a 
 cloth to dry, and well flour them ; then egg them and bread crumb 
 them, let your bread be put through a wire sieve, put a little flour 
 and salt to the crumbs ; have ready in a stewpan some lard or oil, if 
 for a catholic or Jew's family, oil when quite hot, which you will 
 know by dropping into it a sprinkle of crumbs fried, and if it makes 
 a great noise it is hot; then put in three or four outlets shaking them 
 about until a nice light brown, take them out to drain on paper, keep 
 them hot, if for a dish by themselves ; fry at the same time a good 
 handful of parsley. In doing this, to prevent accidents, take your 
 stewpan off the fire and hold it over the dripping-pan from you, then 
 all at once throw in your parsley, you may in a minute return it to 
 the fire until crisp and green. 
 
 614. FILLETS OF SOLES IN ASPIC. 
 
 Cut the fillets of soles as for cutlets, and saute them the same, 
 teeping them white and free from grease, dish them round the inside 
 of the mould and ornament as before, if ornament is liked; or, dish 
 them round your dish, a little small salad or lettuce in the middle, 
 chopped aspic round, and cut cucumber in thin slices as a border to 
 your dish. 
 
 615. — SKATE 
 May be cut into pieces, and fried in oil, with parsley, an onion cut 
 in slices, and sweet herbs ; when sufficiently cooked, pour off the 
 fat. Throw into the pan a small tea-cupful of vinegar, the same 
 quantity of water ; stir it with the herbs, and dredge with flour, until 
 a good consistency; add capers the last thing before sending to 
 table. 
 
 l 616. — CRIMPED SKATE. 
 
 Remove the skin from both sides of the fish, cut it in pieces of less 
 than two inches the whole length of the fish ; roll and tie with thin 
 twine, put into three quarts of water a handful of salt and half a tea- 
 cupful of vinegar, soak the rolls for three hours, then boil them in 
 more than sufficient water to cover them, add two ounces of salt to 
 each quart of water, and three large onions cut in slices, let it boil a 
 " quarter of an hour, take them out and remove the twine without 
 injury to the fish, serve with anchovy sauce. 
 
 BIT. — STURGEON BOILED. 
 
 Soak the fish in salt and water four hours, remove it and bathe 
 
184 SALT AND FKESH WATER FISH. 
 
 with pyroligneous acid diluted with water, let it drain an hour, then 
 put it. into boiling water, let it be well ■ covered, add three onions, 'a 
 faggot of sweet herbs, and a small quantity of bay-salt. When it is 
 boiled so tender that the bones will separate readily remove it from 
 the fire, take away bones and skin, cut it into slices, dredge it with 
 flour, brown it before the fire, and serve with a gravy, the same as 
 given above for roasting. 
 
 618. STURGEON BROILED. 
 
 Cut a fine piece of the fish, and skinning it divide it into slices. 
 Beat up three eggs, and dip each of the slices into them, powder 
 fine ,bread crumbs mixed with finely chopped parsley, pepper and 
 salt over them; fold them in paper, and broil them, being careful 
 that the fire is clear. Send them to table with essence of anchovies, 
 and soy, accompanied by cold butter. 
 
 619. BEFORE YOU BAKE STURGEON, 
 
 Let it lie several hours in salt and water, then boil it until the 
 bone3 can be removed ; pour vinegar over your fish and in the water 
 and salt. When done take it out to cool, then egg and bread crumb it, 
 then sprinkle clarified butter over it, place it in a moderate hot oven 
 to brown, make a very thick sauce fromyour kidneys and good stock, 
 with a table-spoonful of essence of anchovies, season it with cayenne 
 pepper, salt, dust of sugar, juice of lemon, and a glass of wine. 
 
 620. FILLETS OF STUEGEON. 
 
 Either for a corner dish in a large dinner, or a top remove. Cut 
 your fish in rather thick slices, saut£ them as for fillets of soles a 
 little, place them in a stewpan regularly round, with an onion and a 
 faggot of sweet herbs, three small onions, a blade or two of mace, a 
 few cloves, and some whole pepper, put the liquor from your sautS- 
 pan into them, with three or four whole anchovies, a glass of white 
 wine and some good second stock, stew it gently until tender, carefully 
 take out the cutlets, thicken the sauce, if you want them white add 
 a gill of cream ; season with the juice of a lemon, cayenne pepper, 
 and salt, and a dust of sugar.- Dish them as cutlets, and pour the 
 sauce over them. 
 
 621. — STURGEON ROASTED. 
 
 Cut into slices as above, but do not remove the skin, split the 
 pieces on a cork-spit, roast tenderly basting frequently with butter. 
 Make a brown gravy, flavour it with essence of anchovies ; squeeze in 
 a quarter of a lemon and add a glass of sherry, serve up with the fish. 
 
 622. — STUEGEON STEWED. 
 
 Cut into pieces, and stew as tench. 
 
SALT AND FRESH WATER PISH. 185 
 
 623. FILLETS OF STURGEON,' MA1TRE d'h6TEL. 
 
 Prepare the fish as before, leaving out the wine and add some very- 
 fine chopped parsley, and shalots and cream. 
 
 624. SHRIMP TOAST — CEODTE AUX CEEVELLES FRENCH. 
 
 Boil five pints of shrimps, and as soon as they are cold shell 
 them, take the heads and bruise them in a mortar, put them into 
 barely a quart of water and let them boil an hour, strain them 
 very clear and add three parts to half the quantity of good veal 
 stock. Put into a stewpan a lump of butter thej size of an egg, 
 and when it has commenced to bubble, stir in one tea-spoonful 
 of flour, a little grated nutmeg, a sprinkling of cayenne, and a small 
 quantity of mace, the fourth of a tea-spoonful ; when this browns, 
 pour in the stock gradually, adding a glass of vin de Bordeaux, and 
 let it boil, then add the shrimps, cut off the bottom crust of a French 
 loaf, hollow out the crumb, and fry the crust in fresh butter until a 
 golden brown ; as soon as the shrimps are thoroughly heated which will 
 be in about three or four minutes, pour them into the hollowed toast. 
 
 625. CEOUTE AUX CEEVELLES A LA HEINE AMELIE 
 
 Is made in the same manner, save that about four table-spoonfuls 
 of cream are added to the ingredients before the shrimps are put in. i 
 
 ' 626. — SMELTS. 
 
 This is a very delicate fish, requires delicate handling, and is 
 quickly cooked ; draw through the gills and wipe with a soft cloth, 
 but do not wash them, dip them into the yolk of an egg beaten very 
 smooth, and sprinkle them with bread crumbs as finely as they can be 
 powdered, a little flour may be mixed with the bread crumbs, fry 
 them a clear light brown, four minutes will suffice to cook them. 
 
 The French method of serving is to skewer six through the gills 
 with a silver skewer, and serve them in sixes. If dished, lay them 
 head and tail alternately, serve with melted butter and garnish with 
 ' parsley. 
 
 627. TO BAKE SMELTS. 
 
 Prepare as above, dress according to the receipt for soles a la 
 Portuguese ; instead however, of strewing forcemeat over them 
 employ only bread crumbs, and moisten with clarified butter ; mix in 
 addition to the gravy a glass of Madeira, with a dash of anchovies, 
 this must be added before the smelts are laid in. They will be done 
 in ten minutes. ^ 
 
 628. — TROUT. 
 Scale, gut, clean, dry, and flour, fry them in butter until they are 
 a rich clear brown, fry some green - parsley crisp and make some plain 
 melted butter, put in one tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and one 
 
186 SALT AND FRESH WATER PISH. 
 
 glass of -white wine, garnish when the trout are dished with the 
 crisped parsley and lemon cut in slices ; the butter may be poured 
 over the fish, but it is most advisable to send it in a butter tureen. 
 
 629. TKUITE A LA GENEVOISE. 
 
 Clean the fish as above, lay them in a stewpan with two glasses of 
 champagne, two glasses of sherry, a faggot of parsley, an onion 
 stuck with cloves, thyme, pepper and salt, and a piece of the well 
 baked crust of French bread, stew on a quick fire, take out the bread 
 when the fish is done, brown it, mix in butter rolled in flour, and boil 
 up to thicken the sauce ; the fish having been taken out when done, 
 pour over them the thickened sauce, serve with lemon sliced and fried 
 bread. 
 
 630. TBUITE A LA FK1NCESSE EOTALE. 
 
 Take equal parts of Madeira and water, and let them come to a 
 boil, having emptied, cleansed, washed and wiped perfectly dry the 
 trout, lay them in, they should only be just covered with the liquor, 
 they will be done in twenty minutes if not boiled too fast ; take out 
 the fish and thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour, add two 
 well beaten eggs with • one tea-spoonful of cream to the sauce, 
 pouring them from one vessel to another until they are of a creamy 
 consistency, season with salt, pour the sauce upon title fish and serve. 
 
 631. — TROUT STEWED. 
 
 ■** This is a pleasing and delicate dish when nicely stewed. It is 
 dressed very much in the fashion of other small fish stewed, only that 
 it requires perhaps more care in the different processes. 
 
 First wash and clean the fish, wipe it perfectly dry, put, into a 
 stewpan two ounces of butter, dredge in as it melts flour, and add 
 grated nutmeg, a little mace, and a little cayenne. Stew well, and 
 when fluid and thoroughly mixed, lay in the fish which, having 
 suffered to slightly brown, cover with a pint of veal gravy; throw in a 
 little salt, a small faggot of parsley,, a few rings of lemon peel ; stew 
 slowly forty minutes, take out the fish, strain the gravy clear and pour 
 it over the fish; it may be strained over it, before however it is poured 
 over, a glass of bucellas may be added to the gravy. 
 
 632. — TURBOT. 
 1 Place the turbot, previously to cooking, to soak in salt and water 
 in which a little vinegar has been poured ; lay it upon its back in 
 the fish kettle, fill the latter three parts full with cold water, throw 
 in a handful of salt, a gill of vinegar, let it boil very gradually, and 
 when it boils, add cold water to check ; thirty minutes is sufficient to 
 cook it ; serve it upon a cloth as boiled with its back to the dish ; 
 garnish tastefully with sprigs of parsley, and horse-radish scraped 
 into curls, or with fried smelts, or barberries, and parsley. Lobster 
 sauce. 
 
SALT AND FRESH WATER PISH. 187 
 
 633. — FILLETS OP TBEBOT. 
 
 This dish is made from the fish left from the former dinner ; as it 
 is cold you can cut it in very nice shaped pieces, then place them on 
 a dish or saute-pan with a little good stock white, the sauce as for 
 former dishes. If maitre d'h6tel, or with oysters, leave out the 
 parsley, and blanch and beard three dozen large oysters, and put in your 
 prepared sauce, giving it a few minutes' boil ; pour it over your fish. 
 
 634. — TDEBOT A LA BOI. 
 
 Put into a fish kettle two thirds water and one of wine, a cheap 
 light French wine will suffice and will be less expensive ; in France 
 the vin ordinaire is always, unless on extraordinary occasions, em- 
 ployed. In this mixture throw in first a faggot of sweet herbs, one 
 large onion stuck with cloves and a few small ones, the half of a clove 
 of garlic, a table-spoonful of pepper corns, two carrots sliced, two 
 turnips the same, a lump of butter, salt, half a tea-spoonful of 
 cayenne tied in muslin, stew for half an hour, strain quite clear and 
 let it get cold for using ; boil the turbot twenty minutes, and garnish 
 with lobster sauce ; a dish of cucumber sliced and dressed should 
 be sent to table with it. 
 
 635. WATER SOUCHT. 
 
 This is a dish more frequently seen upon the tables of the Black- 
 wall and Greenwich hotels than anywhere else ; it is introduced into 
 private families, and when well cooked makes a very excellent as well 
 as economic dish. 
 
 It is composed of many kinds of small fish, and it is essential that 
 they should be as fresh as possible. The quantity of fish must be 
 regulated by the quantity to be sent to table ; take flounders, perch, 
 tench, carp, very small soles, or any small fish, and clean them very 
 parefully, removing the skin, and cut them into small pieces of equal 
 sizes ; make of fine heads of parsley a faggot, and slice half a dozen 
 pared parsley roots into slips or cut them into rounds, put them with 
 a handful of salt, some whole white peppers, into sufficient water to 
 about cover the fish, simmer until the herbs are tender, put in the 
 fish, remove the scum as- fast as it appears ; stew gently ten minutes. 
 
 The fish must be done but not broken, this may be prevented 
 by watching carefully, it will he the consequence of boiling too fast 
 or being over done if it occurs, and it spoils the appearance when sent 
 to table ; you will remove the fish with a slice, keep it hot, strain the 
 liquor, remove the pepper corns, but return- the parsley and roots, 
 have some finely chopped parsley ready, put it into the liquor, give it 
 ft boil and pour it gently over the fish, serve like white bait with 
 bread and butter cut nicely and laid in plates, brown and white 
 bread should be sent to table to suit the taste of the partakers ; 
 epicures prefer the former. 
 
 , ; There is another way of cooking the water souchy by pulping a 
 portion of the fish and adding it to the liquor to strengthen it, or by 
 
188 SALT AND FRESH WATER FISH. 
 
 boning many of the fish and stewing the bones down, using the liquor 
 instead of water, but the above receipt will be found easy to make 
 and exceedingly palatable. 
 
 636. — WHITINGS 
 
 May be cooked as soles ; they should be sent to table with tail to 
 mouth, or passed through the eyes. 
 
 637. CUKKY OF SOLES AND WHITINGS, ETC. 
 
 Cut in smaller pieces than for cutlets, and proceed to make your 
 curry as before for salmon. 
 
 638. — CURRY OF WHITINGS. 
 
 This fish must be sauteed after you have cut it in the sized pieces 
 for your curry, then proceed exactly as before. 
 
 639. FILLETS OF WHITINGS, MA1TRE d' HOTEL. 
 
 This fish is much tenderer than soles, therefore you must not beat 
 them so hard in forming them, and be careful in turning them, 
 proceed exactly as for the fillets of soles, and likewise the sauce. 
 
 640. QUENELLES OB PUDDINGS OF WHITINGS. 
 
 This fish makes the best quenelles. Proceed exactly as for the other 
 quenelles of white fish. 
 
 641. — WHITE BAIT. 
 
 It requires considerable skill and practice to cook white bait. 
 Respecting the necessity of its freshness there cannot be two opinions. 
 It must not be handled ; if fingers are employed the fish will be 
 bruised, their appearance and flavour destroyed. They should be 
 turned on to a cloth and well dredged with flour, shifting the cloth so 
 that they may be completely covered with flour; turn them into a 
 muslin cloth, shake them sufficiently to get rid of the superfluous 
 flour, and then having your pan ready nearly filled with boiling lard, 
 turn them into it and take them out again instantly, it is simply a 
 process of scalding them, they must not be suffered to brown, put 
 them upon a drainer and serve with sliced lemon, and brown bread 
 and butter in slices. 
 
 642. — FISH SALADS. 
 
 All kinds of fish left from the former days, make good salads ; 
 introduce all the articles as for fish salads, cutting the fish when cold 
 into thin slices, and using fillets of anchovies. 
 
 643. CHICKEN SALAD. 
 
 Use a former dressed chicken, sweetbread, quenelle, and truffles ; 
 dish upon salad as the former, with aspic jelly. 
 
SALT AND FRESH WATER PISH. 189 
 
 644. ITALIAN SALAD. 
 
 Get all] the following things ready : — filleted soles, quenelles, 
 chicken, lobster, filleted anchovies, olives pared, hard-boiled eggs, 
 beet-root, cucumbers, lettuce, and small salad, celery, cresses. Cut 
 up the lettuce and celery, then mix the cresses, salad, and all well 
 together ; place it in the middle of your dish, bringing it to a point 
 at the top, then place round alternately as your fancy directs, the 
 above edibles. Cut them into thin slices, then make the salad or 
 Dutch sauce, pour it over the salad, introduce aspic jelly in different 
 parts of it. 
 
 645. LOBSTER SALAD. 
 
 Extract the fish from the shell, place it in the centre of the dish 
 in which it is to be served, in the form of a pyramid ; arrange the 
 salad round tastfully, and add salad mixture. This dish is not 
 infrequently garnished with the smallest claws of the fish. t This is a 
 matter of fancy — or thus : — 
 
 646. LOBSTEE SALAD. 
 
 Salad, &c, formed into a heap, ornamented with" the claws of 
 several lobsters. The first row is formed of cut cucumbers, the 
 second of eggs boiled hard, and each egg split into four pieces, and 
 the points laid round the salad ; the third and bottom row is com- 
 posed of slices of beetroot, lobster, and hake. 
 
 647. LOBSTERS, IN AN ITALIAN SALAD. 
 
 Take two lobsters, cut them into pieces by taking off the claws and 
 tail, each of which split in two ; the spawn rub through a dry sieve 
 to garnish the salad, made in the following manner ; wash two or three 
 cabbage lettuces, cut them in large shreds, slice a beet-root and cu- 
 cumber, wash, pick, and cut into long shreds four anchovies, chop some 
 tarragon and chervil, two boiled eggs, the yolks and whites chopped 
 separately ; if you have any cauliflowers or French beans, boil and 
 put them with the other things to garnish, having everything prepared, 
 place the lettuce in the centre of the dish in a heap, and place the 
 lobsters and other things according to your taste, and just before 
 you serve garnish with Italian salad sauce. 
 
 648. — LOBSTER SALAD. 
 
 Use only a lobster, cut into some nice large pieces, rather thin ; 
 
190 
 
 SALT AND FEESH WATEB FISH. 
 
 use fillets of anchovies, cucumber, and hard-boiled eggs, dish upon 
 salad, as for the former salad. 
 
 649. ANCHOVIES. 
 
 Wash half a dozen anchovies, and take the meat from the bones; 
 cut them into four fillets, place them on a dish with some sweet herbs 
 cut.small, and the yolks and whites of hard eggs cut small. 
 
 650. ANCHOVY BUTTEK. 
 
 Wash your anchovies carefully, take out the bones and dry them, 
 then pound them in a mortar until they are reduced to a paste, and 
 mix this paste with double the quantity of fresh butter. 
 
 651. ANCHOVIES, ESSENCE OF. 
 
 A pound of the best anchovies, two quarts of water, two hay leaves, 
 some whole pepper, a little scraped horse-radish, a little thyme, two* 
 blades of mace, six shalots chopped small, a gill of port wine, half 
 the rind of a lemon, a gill of ketchup, boil them together for twenty 
 minutes, then rub them through a tammy with a wooden spoon ; 
 when cold put it into pint bottles, cork them close, and keep them in 
 a dry place. 
 
 652. — ESSENCE OP ANCHOVIES. 
 
 Fillet several dozen of anchovies, then chop them up fine with 
 some of their own liquor strained, add to it a cupful of water, boil 
 them gently until the fish is dissolved, then strain it and when cold 
 bottle it. 
 
 653.— TOAST OF ANCHOVIES. 
 
 Prepare toast ; fillet some anchovies, pound them in a mortar, 
 add a little butter well pounded into it, a little cayenne pepper, a 
 few drops of lemon juice; take it out and. spread it on the toast. 
 
 654. ANCHOVIES WITH FRIED BREAD. 
 
 Cut some hread thin, then cut out with a plain, patty cutter the 
 quantity you require, as you will put one on the other; fry them in 
 lard a very nice brown, then fillet and pound anchovies as before : 
 add a little parsley, and a grain of shalot, rub all through a fine 
 ■wire or hair sieve, spread one of your toasts rather thick, place 
 another piece of bread on the top ; have ready some more filletted 
 anchovies, and garnish each toast, using pickles likewise, or parsley. 
 
 655. — TO KNOW GOOD ANCHOVIES. 
 
 The best look red and mellow, and the bones moist and oily, the 
 flesh high flavoured, and a fine smell, if the liquor and fish become 
 dry, add into it a little beef brine. 
 
SALT AND FBESH WATER FISH. 191 
 
 656. LOBSTER OF PRAWNS, OE CRAYFISH 
 
 The same. After taking the meat from the shells quite whole and 
 clean, set a little jelly in your plain mould to get cold, to ornament 
 upon ; filling up the mould by degrees. 
 
 657. — CULLIS OF FISH. 
 
 Broil a jack or pike till it is properly done, then take off the 
 skin and separate the flesh from the bones, boil six eggs hard, and 
 take out the yolks, blanch a few almonds, beat them to a paste in a 
 mortar, and then add the yolks of eggs, mix this well with the butter, 
 then put in the fish, and pound all together ; take half a dozen onions, 
 and cut them in slices, two parsnips, and three carrots, set on a 
 stewpan, and put into it a piece of butter to brown, and put in the 
 roots to boil, turn them till they are brown, and then pour in a little 
 broth to moisten them ; when it has boiled a few minutes strain it 
 into another saucepan, and then put in a leek, some parsley, sweet 
 basil, half a dozen cloves, some mushrooms, and truflles, and a few 
 bread crumbs, when it has stewed gently a quarter of an hour put in 
 the fish from the mortar, let the whole stew some time longer, but be 
 careful that it does not boil ; when it is sufficiently done strain it 
 through a coarse sieve. 
 
1?2 SAUCES. 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 658. — sauce. 
 
 Few things require more care than making sauces. As most of 
 them should he stirred constantly the whole attention should he 
 directed. to them, the better way is to prepare the sauces before 
 cooking those articles which demand equal care;' they may be kept 
 hot in the bain-marie ; butter, and those sauces containing eggs 
 ought never to boil. The thickest stewpans should be used for 
 making sauces, and wooden spoons used for stirring them. 
 
 659. ANCHOVY SAUCE AU BEUBHE. 
 
 Wash some anchovies, take out the bones and scale them, when 
 they are quite dry, cut them into small pieces and pound them into 
 a paste, and mix them up with double their weight of fresh butter. 
 To make a sauce of this, put in some Spanish sauce when lukewarm, 
 or some white wine ; stew them together, stirring them continually. 
 Lemon juice may he added ; strain it ; if too thick add a little con- 
 somme. 
 
 660. ANCHOVY SAUCE. 
 
 To about half a pint of melted butter put two table-spoonfuls of 
 good essence of anchovies, with the juice of half a lemon. Serve very 
 hot. 
 
 661. APPLE SAUCE. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice some apples, put them with a little water into 
 the saucepan to prevent them from burning, add a little lemon peel ; 
 when sufficiently done take out the latter, bruise the apples, put in a, 
 bit of butter, and sweeten it. 
 
 662. — BECHAMEL. 
 
 Reduce some sauce tournee over a good fire, moisten with chicken 
 broth or consomme, constantly stirring to prevent its catching, when 
 of the proper consistence add two glasses of boiling cream, continue 
 stirring, pass it through a hair sieve and serve. 
 
SAUCES. 193 
 
 663. BECHAMEL SAUCE. 
 
 Take some veal and ham, cut them into dices, some carrots, cloves, 
 onions, laurel leaves, shalots, parsley, and scallions, all chopped fine, 
 pepper, grated nutmeg, a little salt and butter, a little veloute and 
 consomme, reduce it to half, and then put in some cream, mix it 
 well with your sauce, boil it all together over a quick fire, shaking it 
 constantly for an hour, if thick enough strain it through a sieve. 
 
 664. — BREAD SAUCE. 
 
 Cut in slices the crumb of a French roll, to which add a few 
 peppercorns, one whole onion, a little salt, and boiling milk enough 
 to cover it, let it simmer gently by the side of the fire till the bread 
 soaks up the milk, add a little thick cream, take out the [onion, and 
 rub the whole through a sieve, make it very hot, and serve with 
 game or fowls. 
 
 665. — BUTTER BURNT SAUCE. 
 
 Fry some butter, when it begins to smoke, throw into it some 
 chopped parsley; when sufficiently done, add pepper, salt, and vine 
 gar. 
 
 666. BUTTER BURNT FOR SAUCE. I 
 
 Fry some butter over the fire in a saucepan and let it boil till it is 
 as brown as you wish, then shake in flour stirring it all the while, 
 then use it for any sauce that is too thin. 
 
 667- — SAUCE AU BAIN MARIE. 
 
 Take thin slices of fillet of veal, ham, and beef, according to the 
 quantity of sauce you may require, take some carrots, parsnips, 
 parsley roots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery also sliced, put all these 
 into a stewpan with a few slices of bacon, cover it close and let it 
 stew on hot ashes for some time, then add equal quantities of white 
 wine and good broth, place the stewpan in the bain marie, and let the 
 sauce simmer for four hours when it may he strained for use; be 
 careful not to put so much of any single ingredient that its flavour 
 may predominate over the others. 
 
 <v%. 668. SAUCE, BROWN. 
 
 Take a pound or two of steaks, two or three pound of veal, some 
 pickings of fowls, carrots, and onions, put all these into a saucepan 
 with a glass of water, and set it on a brisk fire ; when scarcely any 
 moisture remains put it on a slow fire that the jelly may take colour 
 without burning, and as soon as it is brown moisten it with stock or 
 water, add a bunch of green onions or parsley, two bay leaves, two 
 cloves, and some champignons, salt it well, and set it on the fire for 
 three hours, then strain in ; dilute a little roux with your liquor, and 
 boil it an hour over a gentle fire, take off all the fat and run it 
 through a bolting- cloth. 
 
 O 
 
1 94 SAUCES. 
 
 669.— SAUCE AU DIABLE. 
 
 Mince half a dozen shalots very fine, wash, and press out all the 
 moisture, then put them into a saucepan with a glass of vinegar, a 
 clove of garlic, a bay leaf, and some veal glaze, reduce it to nearly 
 a jelly, moisten it with a little good gravy, add pimento, butter, and 
 a spoonful of olive oil. 
 
 670. — SAUCE GRANDE. 
 
 Take three or four slices of the under part of a knuckle of veal, 
 and put them into a large stewpan with two ladlefuls of consomme, 
 set it on a fierce fire, taking care to skim it as much as possible, and 
 with a cloth wipe away all that adheres to the inside of the stewpan, 
 when the consomme is reduced, prick the slices with a knife to let 
 the gravy out; then set the stewpan on a slow fire, that the meat 
 and glaze may adhere together, and as soon as the latter is of a 
 clear light colour, take it off; leave it covered for ten minutes, then 
 fill it up with rich stock, in which are four or five large carrots and 
 three onions, let it boil slowly for three hours. In the meantime put 
 the knuckle into a saucepan with four carrots, four onions, one stuck 
 with cloves, and two ladlefuls of consomme, set it on a brisk fire that 
 the liquor may reduce to a jelly, as soon as this jelly begins to take 
 colour pour on it the liquor from the other saucepan, to dissolve the jelly 
 gradually, then make it boil. Dilute some roux with the above liquor, 
 and add to it the meat, with some champignons, a bunch of parsley, 
 scallions, and two bay-leaves, skim when it begins to boil, and again 
 when the roux is added, put in more consomme or roux according as 
 it is too thick, or too thin. When it has boiled an hour and a half, 
 take off all the fat ; and when the meat is quite done strain the same 
 through a bolting-cloth. 
 
 671- CAPER SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Take some melted butter, into which throw a small bit of glaze, 
 and when the sauce is in a state of readiness throw into it some 
 choice capers, salt, and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of ancho- 
 vies. 
 
 672. — CAPEK SAUCE A LA FRANCATSE. 
 
 Take some capers, cut them small, put some essence of ham into a 
 small saucepan with some pepper, let it boil, then put in the capers ; 
 let them boil two or three times, and they are ready to serve. 
 
 673. — CAPER SAUCE, TO KflTATE. 
 
 Boil some parsley very slowly to let it become of a bad colour, then 
 cut it up, but do not chop it fine, put it into melted butter, with a 
 tea-spoonful of salt, and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar ; boil up, and 
 then serve. 
 
 674. CAPEK SAUCE FOB MEAT. 
 
 Take some capers, chop half of them very fine, and put the'rest in 
 
SAUCES. ] 95 
 
 whole; then chop some parsley -with a little grated bread, and put to 
 it some salt ; put them into butter melted very smooth, let them boil 
 up, and then pour them into a sauce-boat. 
 
 675-' — CARP SAUCE. 
 
 Cut Up a carp in large bits and put it into a saucepan with a few 
 slices of bacon, veal, ham, two onions, one carrot, and half a parsnip; 
 soak it till it catches a little, then add a glass of white wine and good 
 broth, a little cullis, a faggot of parsley, chervil, a clove of garlic, two 
 of spices, and a laurel leaf; simmer for an hour, skim it well, and 
 strain it in a sieve. 
 
 676. — calves' brains, with different sauces. 
 
 Brains braised in wine or broth may be used with what sauces or 
 ragout you please : such as fat livers, pigeons, sausages, onions, ca- 
 pers, fried bread. They take their name from the material with which 
 they are mixed. 
 
 677- CELERY SAUCE. 
 
 Three heads of fine white celery cut into two-inch lengths, keep 
 them so, or shred them down as straws, boil them a few minutes,, 
 strain them off, return the celery into the stewpan, put either some 
 brown or white stock and boil it until tender, if too much liquor 
 reduce it by boiling, then add. either white or brown sauce to it, 
 season it with sugar, cayenne, pepper, and salt. 
 
 678. CELERY SAUCE. 
 
 Cut a dozen heads of fine celery into pieces about the size of a 
 shilling, blanch, and put them into a small stewpan with consomme' 
 enough to cover them, a, small hit of butter, a little sugar and salt, 
 and lay a round paper over the whole ; let them stew gently till 
 nearly done, then shake them up in bechamel sauce. 
 
 679. CHERVIL SAUCE. 
 
 Put a few mushrooms, parsley, chervils, shalots, two cloves, a bay 
 leaf, and a few tarragon leaves, into some melted butter ; let them 
 soak for some time, then add a little broth, white wine, pepper, salt, 
 then reduce it to a proper thickness, and do not skim it ; when done 
 put in some chervil scalded and chopped ; warm it all up together. 
 
 680. — COD SAUCE. 
 
 Take a bunch of parsley, chervil, two shalots, two cloves, a bay 
 leaf, some mushrooms, and a bit of butter, soak all together on the 
 fire, adding a small spoonful of flour, and milk or cream sufficient to 
 boil to the consistence of a sauce, and add to it some chopped parsley 
 first scalded. 
 
 O 2 
 
'196, SAUCES. 
 
 681. — COURT BOUILLON, FOR ALL SORTS OF FRESH WATER FISH. 
 
 Put some water into a fish-kettle, with a quart of white wine, 
 a slice of hutter, salt, pepper, a large hunch of parsley, and young' 
 onions, a clove of garlic, thyme, hay leaves, and basil, all tied together, 
 some sliced onions and some carrots ; boil the fish in this court bou- 
 illon (which will serve for several times) and do not scale it ; when 
 the fish will admit of it, take care to boil it wrapped in a napkin, 
 which makes it more easy to take out without danger of breaking. 
 
 682. CREAM SAUCE. 
 
 Put into a stewpan a little butter, a little parsley, a few green 
 onions and shalots, all cut small, one clove of garlic whole; turn 
 them a few times over the fire, then add some flour, and moisten 
 with cream or milk; let the whole boil for a quarter of an hour; 
 strain ofF the sauce, and when you want it for use, put in a little 
 butter, some parsley just scalded and chopped fine, salt, whole pepper, 
 then thicken the same over the fire ; this may be used with all kinds 
 of dishes that are done white. 
 
 683. CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 Pare two large cucumbers cut in lengths of three inches round the 
 ends; after cutting each length into four pieces take out all the seeds, 
 have ready a bason with vinegar and water, a little pepper and salt ; 
 as you cut them put them into the bason, let them lie a quarter of an 
 hour, take them out, put them into a stewpan with one onion, and a 
 little good brown stock, boil it all until nearly dry, put a few spoon- 
 fuls of brown sauce to it, the juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of 
 vinegar, a little sugar, pepper, and salt ; if for fine white sauce add a 
 gill of cream. 
 
 684. — CUCUMBER SAUCE, FOR CUTLETS OR BEEF. 
 
 Two large cucumbers to be pared thin ; cut them in pieces three 
 inches long, if any seeds take them out round the ends of them, have 
 ready in a basin half a pint of cold water, a little pepper and salt, 
 and a cup of vinegar, and as you prepare them put them in the 
 basin ; after remaining a little time take them out, and put them .into 
 another stewpan with a little of your best stock, boil them down 
 to a -glaze, then put some brown sauce to them, add the juice of 
 a lemon, black pepper, sugar, and salt. 
 
 685.— CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 Cut four cucumbers into pieces the size of half a crown, and three 
 quarters of an inch thick, put them into a clean cloth, and rub them 
 well to take out the water, put a bit of butter into a stewpan, to 
 which put the cucumber, and set them over a brisk fire taking care 
 to shake them frequently ; when they are of a good colour, put to 
 them three large spoonfuls of veloute and two of blond, let them 
 remain a short time on the fire. 
 
SAUCES. 197' 
 
 686. — DUTCH SAUCE, OR HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 
 
 Place in a stewpan some scraped horse-radish, a sprig of thyme, 
 a small onion, and two shalots, with sufficient vinegar to extract 
 the essence of them; keep the lid on the stewpan while steeping. - 
 Have ready in another stewpan two yolks of raw eggs, with a small 
 piece of hutter about two ounces, and two table-spoonfuls of plain 
 melted hutter; when the roots are well run down, throw them into the 
 other stewpan, put it on the fire, and stir till hot, do not let it boil, 
 pass it through a tammy, and serve up, or pour over your fish or 
 whatever it may be required for. 
 
 687- — EEL SAUCE. 
 Cut the eels into large pieces and put them into a stewpan with a 
 few slices of bacon, ham, veal, two onions, with all sorts of roots,, 
 soak it till it catches, then add a glass of white wine and good 
 broth, a little cullis, three or four tarragon leaves, chervil, a clove of 
 garlic, two of spices, and a bay leaf; simmer for an hour, skim it 
 very well, and sift it in a sieve for use. 
 
 688. — EGG SAUCE. 
 
 Boil three eggs hard, cut them in small squares, and mix them in 
 good butter sauce, make it very hot, and squeeze in some lemon 
 juice before you serve it. 
 
 689. — ENDIVE FOE SAUCE OR A PUREE. 
 
 Prepare at first as the above ; cut them into small pieces, sweat 
 them with butter, then add some good stock to stew them in, but if 
 for a puree you must have many more, and when well stewed pass it 
 with spoons through a tammy ; add some good bechamel or brown 
 sauce to it, season as before. 
 
 690. — FENNEL SAUCE. 
 
 Take as many branches of green fennel as you may require ; pick 
 and wash it in the same manner as parsley; chop it very small, scald 
 and then lay it on a sieve to cool ; put two spoonfuls of veloute, and 
 the same of butter sauce into a saucepan, make them quite hot, take 
 care to stir it well that they may be properly mixed, rub the fennel 
 in a little butter, and then throw it into the sauce; mix it in 
 thoroughly, and season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. 
 
 691. — FRESH PORK SAUCE. 
 
 Cut two or three good sized onions into slices, and fry them lightly, 
 • then add two spoonfuls of cullis, a little broth, a few mushrooms 
 chopped, a clove of garlic, vinegar, and spice ; let it boil half an 
 hour, reduce to a proper consistence, skim and strain it. 
 
198 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 092.— GARLIC 6AUCE. 
 
 Three or four garlics, divided and boiled in a little white vinegar and 
 white stock, with a small piece «f lean ham ; when reduced, strain it 
 off, and add either white or brown sauce to the liquor; season with 
 salt, pepper, and sugar ; leave out the vinegar. 
 
 693. GARLIC SAUCE. 
 
 Take two cloves of garlic, and pound them with a piece of fresh 
 butter about the size of a nutmeg, roll it through a double hair 
 sieve, and stir it into half a pint of melted butter or beef gravy, or 
 make it with garlic vinegar. 
 
 694. — GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. 
 
 Take two nandfuls of half ripe gooseberries, open them, and take 
 out the seeds, blanch them in a little salt and water, and drain them ; 
 put two spoonfuls of veloute, and the same of butter sauce into a 
 saucepan, mix them together well, and heat them, throw in the 
 gooseberries, stir them well, season the sauce according to taste, with 
 salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; this sauce is eaten with boiled mackerel ; 
 fennel may be added or not at pleasure. 
 
 09i>. — HAM SAUCE. 
 "When a ham is almost done with, pick all the meat that remains 
 from the bone, leaving out any rusty part ; beat the meat and bone to 
 a mash with the rolling-pin, put it into a saucepan with three spoon- 
 fuls of gravy, set it over a slow fire, and keep stirring it all the time 
 to prevent its sticking to the bottom ; when it has been on some 
 time put to it a small bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper, and half a 
 pint of veal gravy, cover it up, and let it stew over a gentle fire, 
 when it has a good flavour of the herbs, strain off the gravy. A little 
 of this is an improvement to all gravies. 
 
 696.— -HERBS, FINE SAUCE OF. 
 
 Work up a piece of butter in some flour, melt it, and then put to 
 it the following herbs :— shred parsley, scallions, tarragon, borage/ 
 garden cress, chervil ; boil them all together for about a quarter of 
 an hour, add a glass of stock, and serve it very hot. 
 
 '697. — HORSERADISH SAUCE, HOT.. 
 
 Slice two onions and fry them in .oil, and when they begin to 
 colour, put them into a saucepan with a glass of white wine, the 
 same of broth, two slices of lemon peeledj two cloves of garlic, a 
 bay leaf, thyme, basil, and two cloves, boil these a quarter of an 
 hour, and then strain it ; add capers and an anchovy chopped, 
 pepper, salt, and a spoonful of horseradish boiled to a pulp, warm 
 the whole without boilins. 
 
SAUCES; 199 
 
 698. HORSERADISH SAUCE, COLD. 
 
 Chop up some parsley, chervil, shalots, a clove of garlic, capers, 
 and anchovies ; to these add a spoonful of horseradish scraped very 
 fine, a spoonful of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. 
 
 699. — ITALIAN SAUCE. 
 
 Put some good brown sauce in a stewpan, add to it some chopped, 
 prepared mushroom, some chopped parsley and shalot, the juice of a 
 lemon, a little sugar, pepper, and salt, boil it for a few minutes. 
 
 700. LAMB SAUCE. 
 
 Roll a piece of butter in bread crumbs, shred parsley, and shalots, 
 and boil it in a little stock and white wine, equal quantities, a few 
 minutes are sufficient, squeeze in a little lemon or orange juice. 
 
 701. LEMON SAUCE, WHITE, FOR BOILED FOWLS. 
 
 Put the peel of a small lemon cut very thin into a pint of sweet 
 rich cream, with a sprig of lemon, thyme, and ten white peppercorns. 
 Simmer it gently till it tastes well of the lemon, then strain it and 
 thicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter rubbed in a dessert- 
 spoonful of flour, boil it up ; then pour the juice of the lemon 
 strained into it, stirring well ; dish the fowls, and then mix a little 
 white gravy quite hot with the cream, but do not boil them together; 
 add salt according to taste. 
 
 702. LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS. 
 
 Cut small slices of lemon into very small dice, and put them into 
 melted butter, give it one boil, and pour it over boiled fowls. 
 
 703. LEMON SAUCE. 
 
 Pare a lemon and cut it into slices, take out the seeds, and chop 
 it small, boil the liver of a fowl, and bruise it : mix these in a little 
 gravy, then melt some butter, put in the liver, and add a little of the 
 peel chopped fine. 
 
 704.— LIVER SAUCE. 
 
 Take the livers of poultry or game, chop them very small with 
 parsley, scallions, tarragon leaves, and shalots ; soak them in a little 
 butter over the fire, and then pound them, add cullis stock, pepper 
 and salt. Give the whole a boil with two glasses of red wine, 
 coriander, cinnamon, and sugar, reduce and strain it, thicken with a 
 bit of butter rolled in flour, serve it in a sauce boat. 
 
 705. LIVER SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKENS. 
 
 Boil the livers till you can bruise them with the back of a spoon; 
 mix them in a little of the liquor they were boiled in, melt some 
 
200 SAUCES. 
 
 butter very smooth and put to them, add a little grated lemon peel, 
 and boil all up together. 
 
 ' 706. LITER AND PAESIEY SAUCE. 
 
 Wash the liver, which should be quite fresh, of a fowl or rabbit, 
 and boil it for ten minutes in five tea-spoonfuls of water, chop it 
 fine, pound it or bruise it in a small quantity of the liquor it was 
 boiled in, and rub it through a hair sieve j wash about one third its 
 bulk of parsley leaves, boil them in a little boiling water with a little 
 salt in it, lay it on a sieve to drain, and chop it very fine, mix it 
 with the liver, and put it to a quarter of a pint of melted butter, 
 and warm it up ; do not let it boil. 
 
 707. — OYSTER SAUCE FOB ENTREES. 
 
 Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, then make a white roux, 
 to which add a few small onions, mushrooms, parsley, and scallions; 
 moisten with some of the oyster liquor, and a ladleful or two of 
 consomme , set it on a brisk fire, and when reduced add a |pint of 
 cream, season it, let the sauce be tolerably thick, strain it through a 
 sieve, put in the oysters, and use it with those articles where] it is 
 required, such as fowl, turkey, and chicken ; if served with fish, 
 essence of anchovies must be added to the above ingredients. 
 
 708. — LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 
 "° Pound the coral, pour upon it two spoonfuls of gravy, strain it 
 into some melted butter, then put in the meat of the lobster, give it 
 all one boil, and add the squeeze of a lemon ; you may^if you please 
 add two anchovies pounded. 
 
 709. — LOBSTER SAUCE — ANOTHER RECEIPT. 
 
 Put the spawn of a lobster into a mortar with a bit of butter, and 
 well pound it, then rub it through a fine sieve, put some butter sauce 
 into a stewpan, and the spawn of the lobster ; set it on the fire till it 
 is very hot, and looks quite smooth and red, if not smooth, pass it 
 through a tammy ; then put in the meat of the lobster cut into small 
 dices, make it very hot, squeeze in a little lemon juice, and serve. 
 
 J 710. LINTELS. 
 
 • Proceed as for the former sauce, be careful you do not mash them. 
 
 711. — MINT SAUCE. 
 Take some nice fresh mint, chop it very small, and mix it with 
 vinegar and sugar. 
 
 ■ 712. — MAiTRE d'hOTEL SAUCE, FOR FISH. 
 
 Have some parsley finely chopped, and a small shalot, put them in 
 
SAUCES. 201 
 
 a stewpan with a small piece of butter, sweat them over the fire, 
 dry up the butter with flour, then add some of your best stock, 
 or white sauce, with a little ham ; pass it through the tammy, season 
 the last thing with lemon, a dust of sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt, 
 and if you have any fish stock you will reduce it down and add it to 
 it. 
 
 713. — MUSHKOOM SAUCE. 
 
 Cut some mushrooms into pieces, press them in a cloth, and then 
 mince them ; do them up in a little melted butter, then add some 
 good stock parsley, scallions," two cloves of garlic ; skim and cook 
 them over a moderate fire for half an hour, strain, take off the fat, 
 and serve it very hot. 
 
 714. MUSHROOM WHITE SAUCE. 
 
 Have ready some cream sauce rather thinner than usual, to this 
 put a few small white mushrooms, reduce it to the proper consistence, 
 it is then ready. 
 
 715. MUSHROOM SAUOE, BROWN AND WHITE. 
 
 Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms not opened, or coloured in the 
 inside, cut off all the dirty ends, have two basins ready with a little 
 water, salt, and the juice of two lemons ; then pare or trim your 
 mushrooms, putting the mushrooms in one water and the parings 
 in the other ; when all done put about two ounces of butter in a 
 stewpan, take your mushrooms out of the water and put them into 
 the other stewpan, cover them over, and let them stew for sometime; 
 then put them by ready for use, then take out the parings after 
 washing them well, and chop them very fine, then sweat them down 
 in a little butter; when done put them in the larder until wanted. 
 This comes in for Italian sauces, and various other things. 
 
 716. — MUSHEOOM SAUCE A i/ESPAGNOLE. 
 
 Put two ladlefuls of brown consomme, commonly called espagnole, 
 into a stewpan with two ladlefuls of sauce tournee, and some mush- 
 rooms ; reduce it over the fire to the thickness of the sauce you put 
 in at first, then stir in a piece of butter, the juice of half a lemon, 
 and a very small quantity of cayenne pepper. 
 
 717- — MUSTABD SAUCE. 
 
 Put two glasses of stock, shalots shred small, salt and pepper, into 
 a saucepan, let them boil for half an hour, then add a tea-spoonful 
 of mustard, stir it in well, and use it when required. 
 
 718. — ORANGE SAUCE. 
 
 Put into a stewpan half a glass of stock, the same of gravy, a 
 slice of ham, some small pieces of orange peel, about half an ounce 
 
202 SAUCES. 
 
 of butter rolled in flour, salt and pepper ; simmer these oyer the fire, 
 till thick, and then add the juice of an orange. 
 
 719. — ORANGE BITTER SAUCE. 
 
 Pare two bitter oranges very thin, blanch the rinds, and then put 
 them into a rich espagnole reduced ; add a small piece of sugar, and 
 season it well ; just before serving squeeze in the juice of one of the 
 oranges and part of a lemon. 
 
 720. ORANGE GRAVY SAUCE. 
 
 Put half of veal gravy into a saucepan, add to it half a dozen 
 basil leavesi, a small onion, a roll of orange or lemon peel, and let it 
 boil for a few minutes, and strain it off; put to the clear gravy, the 
 juice of a Seville orange or lemon, half a tea-spoonful of salt, the 
 same quantity of pepper, and a glass of red wine, serve it hot ; shalot 
 and cayenne may be added. 
 
 721. — ONION SAUCE. 
 
 The onions must be pealed, and then boiled till they are tender, 
 then squeeze the water from them, chop them, and add butter that 
 has been melted, rich and smooth, with a little good milk instead of 
 water ; give it one boil, serve it with boiled rabbits, partridges, scrag 
 or knuckle of veal, or roast mutton ; a turnip boiled with the onions 
 draws out the strength. 
 
 ! 722. ONION SAUCE, BROWN. 
 
 Peel and dice the onions, some put an equal quantity of cu- 
 cumber and of celery, into a quart stewpan, with an ounce of butter ; 
 set it over a slow fire, and turn the onion about till it is slightly 
 browned, then gradually stir in half an ounce of flour, add a little 
 broth, and a little pepper and salt, boil up for a few minutes ; add a 
 table- spoonful of claret, or port wine, and mushroom ketchup ; you 
 may add, if you think proper, lemon juice or vinegar, and rub it 
 through a tammy or fine sieve. 
 
 723. OVSTER SAUCE. 
 
 In opening the oysters, save the liquor, and boil it with the beards, 
 a bit of mace, and lemon peel ; in the meantime throw the oysters into 
 cold water, and drain it off, strain the liquor, and put it into a sauce- 
 pan with the oysters just drained from the cold water, with sufficient 
 quantity of butter, mixed with as much milk as will make enough 
 sauce, but first rub a little flour with it ; set them over the fire, and 
 stir all the while, and when the butter has boiled a few times, take 
 them off, and keep them close to the fire, but not upon it, for if too 
 much done, the oysters will become hard ; add a squeeze of lemon 
 'uice, and serve ; a little is a great improvement. 
 
SA0SBS. 203 
 
 724. — OYSTER SAUCE FOR BEEP STEAKS. 
 
 Blanch a pint of oysters, and preserve their liquor, then wash, and 
 beard them, and put their liquor into a stewpan with India soy and 
 ketchup, a small quantity of each, a gill of cullis, a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter; set them over a fire, and when they nearly 
 boil, thicken with flour and water, season according to taste with a 
 little cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice, strain it to the oysters, 
 and stew them gently five minutes. 
 
 725. — PARSLEY SAUCE. 
 
 Take a handful of parsley, and having washed and picked, pound 
 it well, and put it into a stewpan with some good cullis, set it on the 
 fire, and let it simmer a quarter of an hour, then strain ; add a bit 
 of butter rolled in flour, a liaison, and a little lemon juice. 
 
 726. — PUREE OP CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 All puree sauces, after having drawn whatever it is to be, down, 
 until a pass into some good white or brown stock, according to 
 whether for white or brown sauce, then rub it through a tammy, then 
 add either your bechemel or codlin sauce to it, sufficient for what you 
 want, season it with cayenne pepper, a dust of sugar and salt. If a 
 puree from any hard substance such as mushrooms, truffles, chesnuts, 
 &c, you must pound them well before you rub them through the 
 tammy ; pare and take out the seeds of two or three old cucumbers, 
 cut them into pieces into a stewpan, with an onion and a few pieces 
 of ham cut in small dice, and just cover them with some good stock, 
 either white or brown, and the juice of a lemon, pepper and salt, 
 and sugar, when tender rub them through a tammy, add. some of your 
 thick bechemel or brown sauce to it. 
 
 727 PUREE OP ONIONS. 
 
 Cut up several onions, put them to boil, in a few minutes strain 
 them off, return them into the stewpan and boil them until quite 
 tender in milk and water, then pass them through a tammy, thicken 
 it with flour and butter, add to it a little bechemel sauce, and a gill 
 of cream according to the quantity you may require, either for a 
 remove dish, a flank dish, or an entree. 
 
 728. ROBERT SAUCE, USED MOSTLY FOR PORK. 
 
 Cut up one onion in small dice, a piece of butter, fry it a nice 
 light brown, add a teaspoonful of mustard, a little flour, two table- 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, the juice of lemon, cayenne pepper and salt, 
 and sugar ; a little good bacon stock, boil it all well, pass it through 
 a tammy cloth. 
 
 729. REMOULADE. 
 
 Put some mustard into a basin and mix it up with some water, 
 add to this a little shalot, and ravigote both shred, six spoonfuls of 
 
204 SAUCES. 
 
 oil, four of yinegar, some salt, and whole pepper, mix them well in, 
 and then put in the yolks of two raw eggs, and continue stirring 
 until the sauce is very thick. 
 
 730. — BOTJX. 
 Put a pound of batter into a saucepan, keep it shaken, until dissolved, 
 add sifted flour, until it is "of the consistence of a moderately thick 
 bbuilli; set it over a very hot stove, or brisk fire, until it begins to colourj 
 it must increase, until of a clear light brown ; set it by for use. 
 
 731. — ROUX WHITE. 
 
 This is prepared as before, but should be placed on a slow fire or stove 
 until very hot, being kept stirred ; it must not be allowed to colour 
 at all. 
 
 732. — SALAD SAUCE. 
 
 Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs into a basin, add to it a 
 table-spoonful of made mustard, then add three table-spoonfuls of 
 salad oil, mix it in smooth j add white pepper, cayenne, and salt, and 
 dust of sugar, five spoonfuls of thick bechamel, a table-spoonful of 
 tarragon vinegar, the same of Chili vinegar, and two spoonfuls of 
 common vinegar ; mix all well together with half a gill of cream. If 
 this sauce is required for fish-salads, add a few drops of essence of 
 anchovies, and sprinkle over the sauce a little fine-chopped parsley 
 the last thing. 
 
 733. SAUCE A L'ALLEMANDE. 
 
 Put a slice of ham and some champignons previously dressed and 
 shred into a stewpan, set it on the fire, and when the ham begins to 
 stick, moisten it with stock and consomme; boil and reduce it, then 
 take off the fat, strain the sauce, and add to it some scalded parsley, 
 two fat livers, capers, anchovies, scallions, all chopped, add a bit of 
 butter, put it again on the fire, and when of the requisite consistency 
 take out the scallions and put in some magnonnaise, and lemon juice, 
 and strain it for use. 
 
 734. — SAUCE A LA MADELAINE. 
 
 Put a few bread crumbs, two shred shalots, a bit of butter, half a 
 spoonful of vinegar, and two spoonfuls of consomme into a stewpan, 
 set them on the fire and give them a boil up together ; season with 
 pepper and salt. This sauce should not be too thick. 
 
 735. SAUCE AUX ATELETS. 
 
 Put some veloute or a hit of butter, into a stewpan with some 
 paisley, scallions, and champignons, all shred small, set them on the 
 fire, and when they begin to fry add a little stock, flour, pepper, nut- 
 meg, a bay leaf, and salt, reduce the whole to a consistence of a 
 bouille, take out the bay leaf, put in the yolks of three eggs, and stir 
 till sufficiently thick ; be careful not to let it boil. 
 
SAUCES. 205 
 
 736. SAUCE, HARVEY. 
 
 Chop twelve anchovies, bones and all, very small, with one ounce 
 of cayenne pepper, six spoonfuls of soy, six ditto of good walnut 
 pickle, three heads of garlic chopped not very small, a quarter of an 
 ounce of cochineal, two heads of shalots chopped rather large, one 
 gallon of vinegar; let it stand fourteen days, stir it well twice or 
 thrice every day, then pass it through a jelly bag, and repeat this till 
 it is quite clear ; then bottle it, and tie a bladder over the cork. 
 
 737- — sauce (italian) for salads. 
 Mix together three table-spoonfuls of sauce tournee, one of mus- 
 tard, some tarragon and chervil shred small, with three table- 
 spoonfuls of Florence oil; putting in, however, a little at a time; when 
 perfectly smooth, add also, by degrees, a glass of tarragon vinegar, 
 and a little salt. This sauce cannot be too much mixed. 
 
 738. SAUCE MINCED. 
 
 Put into a saucepan parsley, shalots, champignons, of each a spoon- 
 ful shred, half a glass of vinegar, and a little pepper; set these on the 
 fire till there remains scarcely any vinegar, then add four ladlefuls of 
 espagnole, and the same of stock; reduce and take the fat from the 
 sauce. When done, put in a spoonful of capers, two gherkins shred, 
 pour it into another saucepan, and set it in the bain marie; just before 
 it is sent to table pound an anchovy or two with a little butter 
 which beat up with the sauce. 
 
 739. SAUCE PIQUANTE. 
 
 Put into a saucepan a quarter of a pint of vinegar, some allspice, 
 a pinch of pepper, a bay-leaf, and a little thyme; let this remain 
 on the fire till reduced to half, then add two ladlefuls of espagnole, 
 and two of stock, set it on the fire again, when about the consistence 
 of clear bouilli it is sufficiently done ; put salt according to taste. 
 
 740. — SAUCE, ROBERT. 
 
 Cut a few onions into dice, which put into a fryingpan with a bit 
 of butter, and fry them lightly ; when nicely browned, add a dessert 
 spoonful of flour, a ladleful of stock, the same of vinegar, some salt, 
 and pepper; reduce it to a proper thickness, and when ready for table 
 stir in two dessert-spoonfuls of mustard. 
 
 741. SAUCE, ROMAINE. 
 
 Cut a pound of veal, and half a pound of ham into dice, and put 
 them into a saucepan, with two legs of fowls, three or four carrots, 
 four onions, two bay leaves, three cloves, a little basil, half a pound 
 of butter, and some salt ; set these on rather a brisk fire. In the 
 meanwhile, pound the yolks of twelve hard eggs to a paste, which 
 put to the above, and stir them in until the butter is melted; then 
 pour in by degrees a quart of cream, set the saucepan again on the 
 fire for an hour and a half, stirring all the time ; if it be too thick 
 add more cream, or milk, when sufficiently done strain through a 
 bolting- cloth. 
 
206 SAUCES. 
 
 742.— SAUCE, SPANISH. 
 
 Take the meat from a cold roasted partridge, put it into a mortar, 
 •with partridge livers and truffles; pound them to rather a liquid 
 paste, moistening with some good gravy, two glasses of red wine, two 
 slices of onions, a clove or two of garlic, and two glasses of the paste j 
 make it quite hot, and then strain it into another stewpan ; add the 
 partridge to it, and a little essence of ham, season it well, and let it 
 boil well for sometime. 
 
 743. SAUCE SUPREME. 
 
 Put one ladleful of veloute and four of essence of fowl into a 
 saucepan, set in on the fire, and when reduced to half put in a tea- 
 spoonful of parsley shred small and scalded, a little fresh butter, the 
 juice of a lemon, and some pepper; place it on the fire and make it 
 quite hot, but not boiling, vanner it well, and serve quickly. 
 
 ** 744. SOUFFLE SAUCE. 
 
 Take eight truffles, clean and cut them round, and then cut them 
 in thin slices into a stewpan ; set them to stew very gently with a 
 small bit of butter. When well stewed add two table-spoonfuls of 
 consomme, and let it simmer till nearly done, then put in some beche- 
 mel sauce — the quantity must be regulated according to what you 
 want it for. Make it very hot, squeeze in a little lemon juice, it is 
 then ready. If you wish the sauce brown, put in espagnole instead 
 of bechemel sauce. 
 
 745. — SORREL SAUCE. 
 
 Wash some sorrel, squeeze it into a stewpan with an onion, four 
 cloves, a piece of fat and lean ham, cover it over and put it over a 
 slow fire ; when drawn down rub the sorrel through a fine hair sieve, 
 add cream and a little white sauce, sugar, salt, and pepper. 
 
 746. — SPINACH SAUCE. 
 
 Let your spinach be well washed and picked, and boiled very 
 green,- strain it off, and rub it through a wire sieve; add to it 
 bechemel, a piece of butter, half a gill of cream, a little sugar, salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 747- SUPERIOR SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDINC. 
 
 Mix six yolks of eggs with four spoonfuls of sifted sugar and but- 
 ter mixed together; have a pint of boiling cream which you will mix 
 with your yolks, afterwards put it on the fire and stir it until it is of 
 the consistency of sauce, then add to it a good wine-glass of brandy. 
 
 748. — TARRAGON SAUCE. 
 
 Extract from some green tarragon by putting it into some second 
 
SAtrcES. 207 
 
 stock, reducing it gently; then strain it off, and add some bechemel 
 to the liquor, and a little finely -chopped tarragon, in some leaves, 
 blanched and put into the sauce. Season with sugar, salt, and cayenne 
 pepper. 
 
 749. TARRAGON SAUCE. 
 
 Put two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar into a saucepan, and 
 reduce it to half the quantity, then put to it six spoonfuls of good 
 butter sauce and mix all well together, and if not sufficiently strong 
 put to it a little bit of glaze, and a very little more tarragon vinegar. 
 
 750 TOMATO SAUCE. 
 
 Fresh tomatos, take out stalk, press them all tightly down in a 
 stewpan, cover them, put them on the fire, strain off the liquor that 
 is drawn from them, add to the tomatos a slice of raw ham, two 
 shalots, a few spoonfuls of good stock, let it stew for an hour, then 
 rub it through a tammy sieve. Have in another stewpan a little good 
 brown sauce, put your tomato into it, boil all together, season with 
 cayenne, salt, sugar, and lemon juice. 
 
 751. — SAUCE ITALTENNE. 
 
 Put some lemon thyme, parsley, and mushrooms, shred small and 
 fine, into a stewpan, with a little butter and a clove of garlic, set it on 
 a moderate fire, as soon as the butter begins to fry, pour in a little 
 consomme, and let it stew till pretty thick, then take out the garlic, 
 add some butter sauce and a little lemon juice. 
 
 752. SAUCE, SWEET. 
 
 Put some cinnamon into a saucepan with as much water as will 
 cover it, set it on the fire, and when it has boiled up once or twice, 
 add two spoonfuls of pounded sugar, a quarter of a pint of white 
 wine, and two bay leaves, give the whole one boil, and then strain it 
 for table. 
 
 753. — SAUCE, UNIVERSAL 
 
 Take half a dozen split shalots, a clove of garlic, two bay leaves, 
 basil, thyme, truffles, tarragon leaves, half an ounce of bruised mus- 
 tard seed, some Seville orange peel, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, 
 the same of mace, double the quantity of long pepper, and two- 
 ounces of salt ; put all these ingredients to infuse in the juice of a- 
 lemon, half a glass of verjuice, four or five spoonfuls of vinegar, and 
 a pint of white wine, put them into a jar, cover it as closely as pos- 
 sible, set it on hot ashes for twenty-four hours, at the end of that 
 time let it stand to settle, and when clear pour it off, strain, and 
 bottle it. 
 
 754. — SAUCE, WHITE. 
 
 Beat wp a quarter of a pound ot butter and a tea-spoonful of 
 
208 SAUCES. 
 
 flour, season with salt and pepper; when well worked up add a 
 dessert-spoonful of vinegar, and a little water, set these on the fire 
 and stir it till thick, be careful not to let it boil. , 
 
 755. — SAUCE, WHITE FISH. 
 
 Simmer together an anchovy, a little horseradish scraped, some 
 mace, an onion stuck with cloves, a piece of lemon peel, a glass of 
 white wine, and a quarter of a pint of water ; when properly reduced 
 strain it, and then add two spoonfuls of cream, a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour, set it on the fire and keep stirring till it boils ; when 
 ready to serve put in a little lemon juice and ketchup. 
 
 756. — SHRIMP SAUCE. 
 
 Put half a pint of picked shrimps into a stewpan M'ith some butter 
 sauce and a very little essence of anchovy, make it very hot, add a 
 little lemon juice, and serve it to table. 
 
 757 SHRIMP SAUCE ANOTHER RECEIPT. 
 
 Mix a good piece of butter with some flour, boil it up in a little 
 rich gravy, put in the shrimps nicely picked, give the whole one 
 boil. 
 
 758. TAMATO SAUCE FRANCAISE. 
 
 Cut ten tomatos into quarters and put them into a saucepan with 
 four onions sliced, a little parsley, thyme, one clove, and a quarter of 
 a pound of butter ; set the saucepan on the fire, stirring occasionally, 
 for three quarters of an hour; strain the sauce through a horse-hair 
 sieve, and serve with the directed articles. 
 
 759. TOMATOS, GARNITURE OP. 
 
 Take thirty tomatos, all as near of a size as possible and of a good 
 form, cut them in halves, press out the juice, seeds, and pieces by 
 the side of the stalk, but do it with great care lest the skins should 
 be injured; make a farce as follows: — take a little ham, garlic, 
 parsley, shalots, champignons shred, the yolks of two hard boiled, 
 eggs, crumb of bread, an anchovy, butter, salt, nutmeg, and allspice, 
 give all these a boil, then pound them well, adding at times a little 
 oil, strain it through a quenelle sieve; fill the tomatos with this farce, 
 place them on a baking tin, cover them with grated bread crumbs 
 and Parmesan cheese, moisten them with a little oil, and bake them 
 in a hot oven; serve the tomatos as a garnish to a rump of beef, or 
 any other joint you may think proper. 
 
 760. — TOMATO SAUCE A i/lTALIENNE. 
 
 Take five or six ounces, slice, and put them into a saucepan with 
 a little thyme, bay leaf, twelve tomatos, a bit of butter, salt, half a 
 
SAUCES. 209 
 
 dozen allspice, a little Indian saffron, and a glass of stock ; set them 
 on the fire, taking care to stir it frequently, as it is apt to stick ; 
 when you perceive the sauce is thick strain it like a puree. 
 
 761. TRUFFLE SAUCK. 
 
 Mince two or three truffles very small, and toss them up tightly in 
 either oil or butter, according to taste ; then put to them four ladle- 
 spoonfuls of veloute, and a spoonful of consomme, let it boil for 
 about a quarter of an hour over a gentle fire, skim all the fat off, 
 keep your sauce hot in the bain marie. 
 
 762. TURNIP SAUCE. 
 
 Pare four turnips and let them simmer in a little water until done, 
 and the liquor is reduced ; then rub them through a sieve. Add to 
 them a little bechemel, then cut some more turnips in shapes as for 
 haricot, simmer them also the same as the first and then add them to 
 the others. 
 
 763. VENISON SAUCE. 
 
 Serve with venison, currant-jelly by itself, or warmed with port 
 wine, or port wine warmed by itself. 
 
 764. WALNDT KETCHUP FOR FISH SAUCE. 
 
 Take a quart of walnut pickle, add to it a quarter of a pound of 
 anchovies, and three quarters of a pint of red wine, and let it boil 
 till reduced to one third, then strain it, and when cold put it into 
 small bottles and keep them closely corked. 
 
 765. WINE MADEIRA SAUCE. 
 
 Take a tea-spoonful of flour, and a preserved green lemon cut into 
 dice, mix them with a glass of Madeira wine, and a little consomme, 
 an ounce of butter, some salt and nutmeg, set them on to boil for a 
 quarter of an hour, then take it off, put in a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, set it on the fire, stirring it until the butter is melted. 
 
 766. — GRATIN. 
 Put in a stewpan with a piece of butter half a pound of fillet" 
 of veal cut into dice, mushrooms, parsley, shalots chopped fine, 
 salt, pepper, and spice, stir them up with a wooden spoon, and 
 when the meat has been on the fire a quarter of an hour drain off 
 the butter, mince it very small and put into a mortar with fifteen 
 fawn or game livers, well washed and parboiled, all the bitter parts 
 taken out and pounded, adding at times as much granada as you 
 have meat; boil some calf-udders, trim and remove all the skin 
 when cold, add just about a third the quantity of meat and pound 
 them together, adding, one at a time, three yolks, three whole eggs, 
 
 P 
 
210 SAUCES. 
 
 season with salt, pepper, and spice, when well pounded set it by in 
 an earthen pan for use. 
 
 767- — RISSOLES OP ALL KINDS. 
 
 Chop some dressed chicken or veal very fine, fry a little chopped 
 parsley, shalot, and mushrooms, very fine, and a little slice of tongue 
 or ham or not, fry them in one ounce of butter a few minutes, stirring 
 it with a wooden spoon all the time; dry the butter up with flour, 
 then add a few small spoonfuls of good veal stock, a gill of cream, three 
 spoonfuls of bechemel sauce ; now put in all your chopped meat, and 
 a little sugar, a few drops of lemon juice, cayenne pepper and salt, 
 and the yolks of three eggs, boil all well until quite stiff, take it out of 
 your stewpan on to a dish to get cold; when cold form them into a shape, 
 either as pears or long balls, using bread crumbs to form them, 
 put them to get cold; in the meantime break' two eggs in a basin, 
 and then egg the forms once or twice, and bread crumb them, have 
 your fat quite hot to fry them, which you will know in another place 
 in the book, dish them on a napkin with fried parsley. 
 
 768. — FARCE OF VEAL, 0E FOWL. 
 
 Cut up a fowl, or some veal, form the fillet into small dice, cut 
 in the same quantity of good fat ham cut small, and a few truffles, 
 a little parsley, shalots, and a little of all kinds of fine sweet herbs, 
 and a few chopped mushrooms, and one blade of mace, three cloves, 
 put it all in a stewpan to draw down, with half a pound of butter for 
 one hour; season it, add bread crumbs to dry up the fat, then put it 
 into your mortar and pound it very fine, then rub it through a wire 
 sieve, return it back into the mortar, and work in three or four eggs, 
 leaving out one or two whites ; mix it well up together, and put 
 it into the larder until required. If you want any green, colour 
 some with prepared spinach juice ; this will do for all cold pies, 
 or game, or filling turkeys, or boned fowls, or galantine. 
 
 You may make this farce with dressed meat, then you must not 
 place it to draw down on the fire ; all the rest the same, only truffles, 
 and mushrooms as well as the rest must be first dressed. 
 
 7t>y. — FARCES AND STUFFINGS. 
 
 A veal stuffing. Chop some suet fine, a little parsley, a small piece 
 of shalot, rub through a dry sieve a small quantity of basil, knotted 
 marjoram, thyme, add these to your suet, a grating of half a lemon, 
 a few grains of nutmeg, a few bread crumbs, and one or two eggs, 
 mix all well up together, season with pepper and salt. 
 f?- ; If for game, scrape- the raw livers into the stuffing, prepared as 
 above, only in addition pound it all fine. 
 
 770. FORCEMEAT INGREDIENTS. 
 
 Forcemeat meat should be made to cut with a knife, but not dry 
 
SAUCES. 211 
 
 or heavy, no one flavour should predominate ; according to what it 
 is wanted for a choice may he made from the following list ; he 
 careful to use the least of those articles that are most pungent, cold 
 fowl or veal or ham, scraped fat hacon, beef suet, crumbs of bread, 
 parsley, white pepper, salt, nutmeg, yolks and whites of eggs 
 beaten to bind the mixture. Any of the following articles may 
 be used to alter the taste ; oysters, anchovies, tarragon, savory, 
 pennyroyal, marjoram, thyme, basil, yolks of hard eggs, cayenne, 
 garlic, shalots, endives, Jamaica pepper in powder, or '^n or three 
 cloves. 
 
 771- — rOECEMEATS, ETC. 
 
 Cold fowl, veal, or mutton. Lobster, tarragon. 
 
 Scraped ham, or gammon. Savoy, pennyroyal. 
 
 Fat bacon, or fat ham. Knotted marjoram. 
 
 Beef suet. Thyme and lemon thyme. 
 
 Veal suet. Basil and sage. > ' 
 
 Butter. .Lemon peel. 
 
 Marrow. Yolks of hard eggs. 
 Soaked bread, and crumbs of Whites and yolks of eggs. 
 
 bread. Mace and cloves. 
 
 Parsley and white pepper. Cayenne and garlic. 
 
 Salt and nutmeg. Shalot and onion. 
 
 Cold soles. Chives and chervil. 
 
 Oysters. Ground pepper and two or 
 Anchovies. three cloves. 
 
 772. — BKOWN COLOURING POS MADE DISHES. 
 
 Take four ounces of sugar, heat it fine, pat it into an iron frying- 
 pan or earthen pipkin, set it over a clear five, and when the sugar is 
 melted it will be frothy, put it higher from the fire until it is a fine 
 brown, keep it stirring all the lime; fill the pan up with red wine, 
 take care that it does not boil over, add a little salt and lemon, put a 
 little cloves and mace, a shalot or two, boil it gently for ten minutes, 
 pour it in a basin till it is cold, then bottle it for use. 
 
 P 2 
 
212 
 
 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 
 Vegetables form a most important feature in the art of cooking ; 
 it is the boast of French cooks that we neither know the value, the 
 taste, or the virtues of them unless they dress themvfor us, and to do 
 them justice, they dress them in an infinite variety of ways, and also 
 render them delicious to the palate. Much depends upon boiling 
 greens, and the manner in which it is done; the water should be 
 soft, a handful of salt should be thrown into the water, which 
 should be made to boil before the greens are put in ; it should then 
 be made what cooks term " gallop," the saucepan should be kept 
 uncovered, and when the greens sink they are done, take them out, 
 and quickly too; it is the skill which French cooks exhibit in con- 
 
VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 213 
 
 triving and inventing made dishes, chiefly composed of vegetables, 
 which has obtained for them the fame which it is in vain to deny 
 they deserve, they make the nature of the substances upon which 
 they employ their skill, their study, and present them to the con- 
 sumer in such fashion as shall, while it pleases the palate, not 
 offend the digestion ; it would be as well if our cooks were to 
 emulate their skill in a spirit of generous rivalry by improving upon 
 their example, rather than run down their abilities with a sneer at 
 the slight character of their courses, which, if composed of dishes 
 " made out of nothing," or, " so disguised you cannot tell what you 
 are eating," have at least the merit of gratifying the taste, and 
 preventing the head from too plainly indicating that the stomach 
 has received food of which it finds a difficulty in dispossessing 
 itself. Vegetables are a most useful accessory to our daily food, 
 and should be made the object of a greater study than they are 
 usually. 
 
 773. — CHAKTRETJSE OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 Line a plain mould with bacon ; have ready half done carrots, 
 turnips, French beans cut long with a French cutter all the same 
 length, place them prettily round the mould until you get to the 
 top, fill in the middle with mashed potatoes, cauliflower, or spinach, 
 or some veal forcemeat ; put it on to steam, turn it out, and put 
 asparagus or mushroom sauce round it. 
 
 774. — ASFAKAGUS. 
 
 Let the stalks be lightly but well scraped, and as they are done 
 be thrown into cold water ; when all are finished fasten them into 
 bundles of equal size ; put them into boiling water, throw in a 
 handful of salt, boil until the end of the stalk becomes tender, it 
 will be about half an hour; cut a round of bread and toast it a 
 clear brown, moisten it with the water in which the asparagus was 
 boiled, and arrange the stalks with the white end outwards. A 
 good melted butter must accompany it to table. 
 
 Asparagus should be dressed as soon after it has been cut as 
 practicable. 
 
 775. — ASPARAGUS EN CHOUSTADE. 
 
 Mix up the yolks of four eggs in some paste a. nouille, then form 
 it into an under crust, cut it into a band nineteen inches long, and 
 two inches and a quarter wide. With the cuttings of your paste 
 form a round six inches in diameter, arid around this put your 
 band in form of a croustade, pinch up your paste intp proper 
 
214 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 
 shape, and ornament it lightly round; gild it, and put it to dry in a 
 slow oven; this done, take a fine head of asparagus, and place it 
 standing ugright in the middle of your croustade, surround this 
 with six more heads of asparagus, nine inches in length; surround 
 these with twelve more, eight inches in length ; round these put 
 seventeen more, seven inches in length ; add two more rounds of 
 asparagus, the one six inches in length, the other five inches in length. 
 
 Great attention should be paid to the boiling of asparagus for 
 this entremet, as it should be of a nice green colour, and the 
 moment it is sufficiently boiled, which is when it becomes firm, it 
 should be put into cold water to cool it. 
 
 This is an extremely pretty and ornamental way of serving this 
 vegetable cold. It should be eaten with oil. 
 
 776. ASPARAGUS FORCED. 
 
 Scoop out the crumb of three or four French rolls, preserving the 
 piece cut from the top, which will have to be fitted on to the part it 
 was cut from ; put into a pan with some fresh butter, the rolls, and 
 fry them brown, beat up with a pint of cream, the yolks of six eggs, 
 flavour with some grated nutmeg and a little salt, put it into a stew- 
 pan, and over a slow fire, let it gradually thicken, stirring it all the 
 time. 
 
 Have ready the tops of a bundle of asparagus, say a hundred, 
 and having boiled them tender put them into the cream and fill the 
 rolls with the mixture, reserving a few tops to stick in each roll by 
 way of garnish. 
 
 777- ASPARAGUS ITALIAN FASHION. 
 
 Take some asparagus, break them in pieces j then boil them soft 
 and drain the water off, take a little oil, water, and vinegar, let it 
 boil, season it with pepper and salt, throw in the asparagus, and 
 thicken with the white of eggs. 
 
 Endive, done this way, is good ; green peas, done as above, are 
 very good, only add a lettuce cut small and two or three onions, 
 and leave out the eggs. 
 
 778. ASFERGE A EA POIS. — FBENCH RECEIPT. 
 
 "When asparagus is first in season, and too small to make a hand- 
 some appearance, this mode of dressing it is very good ; take the 
 asparagus and cut off only the green heads, none of the white stalk 
 must be retained, put them into clear cold water, and when clean 
 pop them into boiling water, in which salt has been thrown ; in ten 
 minutes they will be tender ; they may then be, taken out and laid 
 upon a white cloth, which must be used to wipe them dry, lay in a 
 stewpan a slice of butter, when it is melted put in the asparagus, 
 stew them over a quick fire, keep them turning, when ten minutes 
 have elapsed, dredge a little flour and a, small quantity of white 
 sugar in powder over them ; beat up the yolks of a couple of eggs, 
 pour over the asparagus just sufficient water to cover them, boil up 
 
VEGETABLES, SALNDS, ETC. 215 
 
 rapidly, stir in the yolk of one egg, and making a pyramid of the 
 asparagus in the dish, serve very hot. 
 
 779. ANGELICA. 
 
 When the stalks are tender cut them in lengths of three or four 
 inches, hoil them well in a very little water, keep them covered, then 
 take them up and peel them, and hoil again until a nice green, take 
 them up on a cloth to dry, lay them in an earthen pan, adding to 
 every pound of stalks a pound of sifted sugar, let it lie for several 
 days, and then hoil the angelica until very green, take it up on your 
 sieve to drain, then sift well over, it some fine pounded sugar, lay it 
 in the sun or in your hot closet to dry if for candying. 
 
 780. ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Cut away the outside leaves and make the stalk as even as 
 possible, put them into boiling water with some salt, if they are 
 very young they will be tender in half an hour, if ratner old they 
 will require an hour before they are thoroughly tender, drain and 
 trim the points of the leaves, serve with melted butter. 
 
 They are better for being kept two or three days. 
 
 781. — JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
 
 Pare them after being well washed, very smooth and of some kind 
 of shape, boil them in milk and water, pay great attention to them, 
 as if not taken up the time they are soft they will break ; they are 
 served up ■ with various kinds of sauces, white and brown, or fried in 
 butter, and dished upon a napkin with fried parsley. 
 
 782. ARTICHOKES A LA 6T. CLOUD. 
 
 Trim and boil them until the chokes come out ; then drain and let 
 them cool ; have ready as many small pigeons, stewed and well sea- 
 soned, as you hare artichokes, each of which must be stuffed with a 
 pigeon ; dip them in a good batter made of flour, eggs, a spoonful of 
 oil, and a little salt; fry it in a hot pan with plenty of dripping. 
 
 783. LEAF ARTICHOKES. 
 
 About six artichokes will do for a dish, cut the bottoms even off, 
 trim the top leaves off to a point, cut off the end of the leaves at the 
 point, boil them about an hour if not very young, send melted butter 
 in a boat. 
 
 784. ARTICHOKE ^BOTTOMS 
 
 Are prepared in a variety of fashions. The way is to parboil the 
 artichokes and remove the leaves and chokes ,also, lay the bottoms 
 into jars with a good brine, tie them over, and let them remain 
 until required for use, or dry them in an o'ven, and keep them in 
 close covered jars. 
 
216 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 
 When they are to be dressed, soak them in warm water at least 
 two hours and a half, then stew them in a good gravy, or boil 
 them plainly, and eat them with melted butter, or instead of melted 
 butter pour into each bottom a spoonful of tomato sauce. They 
 are sometimes added to ragouts or meat pies. 
 
 585. — ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS. 
 
 If dried you must soak them well for some time, then stew them 
 in some good second stock until tender, take up the artichokes and 
 reduce the stock, add to it a little brown sauce seasoned with pepper, 
 salt, and sugar, a few green peas in the middle of each or alternately, 
 some scooped turnips boiled and put into each, glaze the artichokes 
 before you add those to them, sauce in the dish. 
 
 786. ARTICHOKES FRIED. 
 
 Divide the artichoke into four parts, trim the leaves cleverly and 
 remove the chokes ; put them into scalding water to blanch, and 
 keep them there until nearly tender, let them drain, make a pickle 
 of oil and vinegar well mixed, pepper and salt; let them remain two 
 hours, dip them into some rich batter, and having the pan prepared 
 with boiling lard, fry them and send them to table on a napkin. 
 
 787. ARTICHOKE SALAD. — FRENCH RECEIPT. 
 
 The artichokes should be very young, the choke having scarcely 
 formed, clean them and let them soak thoroughly, drain them, take 
 off the stalks close and even, and send them to table with the 
 vegetables to form the salad. This is a favourite mode in Paris of 
 dressing them. 
 
 788. FRENCH BEANS. 
 
 When very young the ends and stalks only should be removed, 
 and as they are done thrown into cold spring water ; when to be 
 dressed put them in boiling water which has been salted with a 
 small quantity of common salt, in a quarter of an hour they will be 
 done, the criterion is when they become tender, the saucepan should 
 be left uncovered, there should not be too much water, and they 
 should be kept boiling rapidly. 
 
 When they are at their full growth the ends and strings should 
 be taken off and the bean divided lengthways and across, or 
 according to the present fashion slit diagonally or aslant. 
 
 A small piece of soda a little larger than a good sized pea, if put 
 into the boiling water with the beans, or with any vegetables, will 
 preserve that beautiful green which it is so desirable for them to 
 possess when placed upon the table. 
 
 789. — FRENCH BEANS TO KEEP. 
 
 Gather them, string them, and put them into bottles, if large cut 
 them, shake the bottle, the beans may lie close, and proceed as 
 
VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 217 
 
 with Windsor beans ; white beans are done in the same manner, 
 but they must not be gathered until the shell has turned yellow, 
 they must be two hours in the bainmarie ; one hour is enough for 
 the green. 
 
 790. FRENCH BEANS TO KEEP. 
 
 Gather them on a dry day, and lay them in the sun, keep them 
 in a dry place in papers ; before you use them put them in warm 
 water. 
 
 791. FRENCH BEANS A LA MA1TRE d'HOTEL. 
 
 Prepare your beans as for boiling ; put into a stewpan a piece of 
 butter, shred parsley, and green onions, when the butter is melted 
 add the French beans, turn them a few times over the fire, shake 
 in some flour, and moisten with a little good stock well seasoned ; 
 boil till the sauce is consumed, then put the in yolks of three eggs, 
 beat up with some milk, and add a little vinegar. Cullis of veal 
 gravy may be used instead of the eggs. 
 
 792. FRENCH BEANS A LA BRETONNE. 
 
 Cut an onion or two into dice and put them in a saucepan with 
 some butter over a stove ; when they begin to brown, add some 
 espagnole or a pinch of flour; as soon as the onions and flour are 
 sufficiently done moisten them with a spoonful of good gravy, 
 season with salt and whole pepper; reduce this sauce, and having 
 boiled the beans put them into it and simmer all together. 
 
 793. — FRENCH BEANS A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 Clean, cut, string, and boil them, drain them well, and then place 
 them in a stewpan without water, hold them over the fire until the 
 whole of the moisture has evaporated and they are quite hot. Cut 
 a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into small pieces, put it to the 
 beans, and when it is melted pepper it with white pepper, sprinkle 
 a little salt, squeeze half a lemon over it, toss over the fire and 
 serve hot. 
 
 794. FRENCH BEANS EN ALLUMETXE. 
 
 Wash, pick, and blanch your beans, throw them into cold water, 
 cut off the ends, and finish boiling them with a little brandy, drain 
 them, dip in butter, and fry them of a light colour, whilst hot 
 spread sugar over and glaze them. 
 
 795. — FRENCH BEANS FBICASEED. 
 
 Boil almost tender, strain and put into a stewpan with a tea- 
 cupful of white gravy ; add two spoonfuls of cream, thicken with a 
 little butter and flour, let it simmer for a few minutes, season, and 
 serve. 
 
218 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 796. FRENCH BEANS SALAD. 
 
 Boil them simply, drain them, and let them cool; put them in a 
 dish, and garnish with parsley, pimpernel, and tarragon, dress like 
 other salads. 
 
 797. BEANS, GARDEN PRESERVED. 
 
 Shell the beans when they are about half an inch long, and 
 blanch them, put them into bottles, with a bunch of savory in 
 each, close the bottles hermetically, and proceed according to the 
 directions for preserving asparagus ; leave them in the bain marie 
 one hour and a half. If you wish to preserve them in their coats, 
 take care to put them into bottles the moment they are shelled, as 
 they change colour so quickly; an hour in "the bain marie is enough.- 
 
 798. STEWED BEANS. 
 
 Boil them in water in which a lump of butter has been placed, 
 preserve them as white as you can, chop a few sweet herbs with 
 some parsley very fine, stew them in a pint of the water in which 
 the leaves have been boiled, to which a quarter of a pint of cream 
 has been added; stew until quite tender, then add the beans, stew 
 five minutes, thicken with butter and flour. 
 
 799. BEANS, PUREE OF, "WHITE. 
 
 Chop some onions and fry them lightly in a little butter and 
 flour, and moisten with a tea-spoonful of broth ; let the onions be 
 done ; boil the beans in this for half an hour, season them well,' use 
 brown pepper, and strain them through a tammy ; reduce the puree 
 over a brisk fire,. take off the white scum, and before you serve 
 refine it with a bit of fresh butter and two spoonfuls of thick cream, 
 garnish it with fried crust of bread, this may be made brown by 
 frying the onions brown. 
 
 800. BEANS BOILED. . 
 
 Boil in salt and water, with a bunch of savory, drain, and then < 
 put them into a stewpan with five spoonfuls of sauce tournee 
 reduced, the yolk of three eggs and a little salt, add a piece of fresh 
 butter, and stir it constantly till of a proper thickness. 
 
 801. WINDSOR BEANS. 
 
 They should be young and shelled only just previous to cooking, 
 salt the water in which they are to be cooked, and when boiling 
 throw in the beans ; when tender drain in a cullender, send to table 
 with plain melted butter, or parsley and butter. They usually 
 accompany bacon or boiled pork to table. 
 
 802. HARICOT BEANS. 
 
 Two handfuls of the white beans, lay in boiling water until the 
 
VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 219 
 
 skins come off, put them in cold water as" you do them, then take 
 them out, and put them into a stewpan with some good stock, boil 
 them until nearly to a glaze, then add some good brown sauce to 
 them, shaking them about; season with sugar, salt, and pepper. 
 
 803. HARICOT ROOTS. 
 
 Pare three turnips, and scrape two or three good, coloured carrots, 
 about two dozen button onions, a head of celery; cut out with a 
 scoop cutter sufficient carrots and turnips to pair the button onions ; 
 lay them for a few minutes in boiling water, keep all your roots 
 in water until all is done,, cut your celery to correspond as to size 
 with the other roots ; when done blanch them, then strain them off, 
 return them into the stewpan, and put to them some good brown 
 stock, boil them until reduced to nearly a glaze, then add some 
 brown sauce to them, sugar, pepper, and salt, do not stir with a 
 spoon to smash the roots which should be quite perfect. 
 
 804. WHITE HARICOT BEANS. 
 
 Take a pint, soak them in water for three or four hours, then boil 
 them slowly until they are tender, strain them dry, pour to them a 
 pint of white sauce, melt two ounces of butter, and with a shalot 
 very finely minced, add them to the haricots, season with salt and 
 pepper, send it to table hot. It should accompany roast mutton. 
 
 805. HARICOTS A LA FRANCHISE. 
 
 Put the haricots into a saucepan with cold water, add a small 
 piece of butter, let them heat gradually; if they approach boiling 
 stay them with cold water. When the beans are soft drain them, 
 boil a few onions and put them with the beans in a saucepan with 
 a bit of butter and a quarter of a pint of good gravy, season with 
 salt and pepper, toss them and serve. If they seem dry add a little 
 butter to them. 
 
 806. "WHITE HARICOT BEANS. SPANISH RECEIPT. 
 
 Take a pint of beans, pour a quart of boiling water upon them 
 and let them remain in soak until the next day; cut a lettuce in four 
 pieces and put it with the beans in some fresh hot water, throw in 
 a small faggot of parsley, and a slice of ham, boil them until the 
 whole are tender. 
 
 Chop up some onions, with a clove of garlic, fry them and then 
 put them into a stewpan, put the beans to them, with a well beaten 
 . egg and some spice, neat them and send them to table. 
 
 807- BEET ROOTS, SECOND COURSE DISH. 
 
 Cut in equal sized slices some beet root, boiled or baked, of a good 
 colour, make it hot between two plates in the oven, dish it as you 
 would cutlets, round; make a good piquant sauce, boil some button 
 onions white and tender, throw them in the middle of the dish with 
 the sauce. 
 
220 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 
 -BB.0CC0LI. 
 
 Peel the thick skin of the stalks and boil for a quarter of an hour 
 with salt in the water. The small shoots will only require half the 
 time ; they should be tied in bunches. 
 
 Serve with toast and melted butter. 
 
 809. BBOCCOLI AND BUTTERED EGGS. 
 
 Keep a handsome bunch for the middle, and have eight pieces to 
 go round ; toast a piece of bread to fit the inner part of the dish 
 or plate : boil the broccoli. In the meantime have ready six (or 
 more) eggs beaten, put for six a quarter of a pound of fine butter 
 into a saucepan, with a little salt, stir it over the fire, and as it 
 becomes warm add the eggs, and shake the saucepan till the mix- 
 ture is thick enough ; pour it on the hot toast, and lay the broccoli 
 as before directed. This receipt is a very good one, it is occasionally 
 varied, but without improvement, the dish is however nearly obso- 
 lete. 
 
 810. CABBAGES. 
 
 A full grown or summer cabbage should be well and thoroughly 
 washed; before cooking them cut into four pieces, boil rapidly and 
 with the saucepan uncovered half an hour; a young cabbage will 
 take only twenty minutes, it must be boiled very rapidly, a handful 
 of salt should be thrown in the water before the cabbage is put in. 
 
 811. CABBAGE TO BOIL. 
 
 Nick your cabbage in quarters at the stalk, wash it thoroughly 
 clean, put it into boiling spring water with a handful of salt and a 
 small piece of soda, boil it fast, when done strain it in a cullender, 
 press it gently, cut it in halves and serve. Savoys and greens may 
 be boiled in the same manner, they should always be boiled by 
 themselves. Should the cabbage be left, it may be chopped, put 
 into a saucepan with a lump of butter, and pepper, and salt, and 
 made hot and sent to table. 
 
 812. — CABBAGE TO KEEP. 
 
 Small, close cabbages laid on a stone floor, before the frost sets 
 in, will blanch and be very fine, after many weeks' keeping. 
 
 813. CABBAGE BOILED AND STEWED. 
 
 Cut a cabbage into four, boil it a quarter of an hour with a piece 
 of streaked bacon cut into small pieces, leaving the rind on, change 
 it into cold water, squeeze it well, tie each quarter to preserve its 
 shape, stew it with stock, salt, pepper, a bunch of parsley and green 
 onions, cloves, a little nutmeg, two or three roots, and the meat you 
 purpose serving with it. When both meat and cabbage are done, 
 wipe the grease off the latter, dish it for table the streaked bacon 
 on it, and serve with a sauce of good cullis seasoned to palate. The 
 parts of meat cabbage is best boiled with are veal tendons, breast 
 
VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 221 
 
 of beef, a bit of round of beef, pork chitterlings, a shoulder of 
 mutton boned and tied into a round or a trussed capon. Whatever 
 meat the cabbage is stewed with should be previously to serving 
 boiled a few minutes in water to take off the scum. 
 
 814. CABBAGE BAGoCri. 
 
 Take the half of a middle sized cabbage, boil it for half an hour, 
 and then change it in cold water, squeeze it well and take out the 
 heart, cut the cabbage into small pieces and put it in a stewpan, 
 with a slice of good butter, turn it a few times over the fire, and 
 shake in some flour, put in sufficient gravy to give colour to the 
 ragout, let it boil over a slow fire until the cabbage is done and 
 reduced to a thick sauce ; season it with salt, a little coarse pepper, 
 a little grated nutmeg, serve under any meat you think proper. 
 
 815. — CABBAGE AND BACON. 
 
 Blanch a cabbage cut in quarters, and put it into a stewpan with 
 a piece of streaked bacon, season it, moisten with water, and give 
 it a boil, then let it stew over a moderate fire ; when done, dress 
 the cabbage on a dish with the bacon over it ; reduce the liquor 
 and add to it a little butter worked with some flour, and then serve 
 over the bacon and cabbage. 
 
 816. CABBAGE RED. 
 
 They are mostly stewed to eat with ham, bacon, or smoked 
 sausages, though sometimes without any meat, they are very strong 
 eating, and should be first scalded, then stewed with butter, pepper, 
 salt, and cloves, and vinegar added to it just before serving ; they 
 are considered wholesome in veal broth for consumptions, but are 
 most proper for pickling. 
 
 817- TO STEW BED CABBAGE. 
 
 Trim and quarter a young cabbage, cut out the stalk, cut it end 
 ways into fine pieces, put into a stewpan two large onions, one stuck 
 with cloves, a large piece of fat and lean ham, a tea-cup of vinegar, 
 cover it over and stew over a slow fire for several hours, season it 
 with pepper and salt, add a little good stock or brown sauce, it will 
 go hot under what it is required for. 
 
 818. CABBAGE SALAD. 
 
 Boil a savoy cabbage in water, drain and dress it as you would a 
 salad, with salt, pepper, some Provence oil and vinegar, adding one 
 or two anchovies and a few capers, it may be served either hot or 
 cold. 
 
 119. — CABBAGES FOR GAME. 
 
 Cut and quarter two cabbages, boil them until half done, lay them 
 in cold water, cut out the stalk, squeeze each quarter with your 
 hands to a long bundle, using them to be stewed with your birds. 
 
222 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 
 >.— CARDOONS. 
 
 Are dressed in various ways. 
 
 Boil them until soft in salt and water, dry them, butter them, and 
 fry a good colour, serve with melted butter. 
 
 They are boiled and worked up in a fricasee sauce, or they may 
 be tied up and dressed as asparagus. 
 
 To stew them cut them in pieces, and stew in white or brown 
 gravy, season with ketchup, salt, and cayenne, thicken with a small 
 lump of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 821. CAULIFLOWERS TO BOIL. 
 
 Trim them neatly, let them soak at least an hour in cold water, 
 put them into boiling water in which a handful of salt has been 
 thrown, let it boil, occasionally skimming the water. If the cauli- 
 flower is small it will only take fifteen minutes, if large twenty 
 minutes may be allowed ; do not let them remain after they are 
 done, but take them up and serve immediately. 
 
 If the cauliflowers are to be preserved white, they ought to be 
 boiled in milk and water or a little flour should be put into the 
 water in which they are boiled, send melted butter -to table with 
 them. 
 
 822. — CAULIFLOWER ATJ FROMAGE. 
 
 When you have boiled the cauliflower tender, drain it, and cut 
 ■the stalks off flat, that when sent to table the heads may stand up, 
 lay it in a stewpan with white sauce, stew eight minutes, dish it 
 with the white sauce, grate Parmesan over it, brown with a 
 salamander, and serve. 
 
 823. CAULIFLOWER X LA FRANCHISE. 
 
 Prepare exactly as the last receipt up to- the grating of the 
 Parmesan cheese, that must not be used, but the cauliflowers must 
 be suffused with sauce thickly over them to get cool, when quite 
 cold dip them into a blanc and fry them a good colour, send them 
 to table very bot. 
 
 824. — CHABTREUSE OF CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 Some that was boiled the day before; cut off the stalk, and 
 press the cauliflower tight in a mould ; if not sufficient to fill it, add 
 mashed potatoes ; put plain bechamel sauce round it. 
 
 825. STEWBD CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Take two or three straight cucumbers, cut off one end, then take 
 out the seeds, lay them in vinegar and water, and pepper and salt, 
 have some good farce and fill each cucumber with it, dry your 
 cucumbers well out of the vinegar first, then dry them in a clean 
 rubber, then fry them if for brown, if for white not, take them out 
 of the butter and put them to stew in some good stock, one large 
 onion, a faggot of berbs, a slice of lean ham, until tender, thicken the 
 
VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 223 
 
 liquor and pass through a tammy; season with a little drop of vinegar, 
 lemon juice, sugar and salt, and white pepper, glaze the cucumbers 
 several times, to be a bright brown. 
 
 826 STEWED CELERY. 
 
 Ten or twelve heads of large celery, using the root and about three 
 inches long, lay them in salt and water a few minutes, take them out 
 and place them in a stewpan, with an onion, and a faggot of herbs, 
 cover them with second stock, stew them gently until quite tender, 
 reduce the stock, thicken it and pass it through a tammy; season with 
 sugar, salt, and cayenne pepper. Dish them up as you do cutlets, 
 either glaze them or pour the sauce over them. 
 
 827- — ENDIVES. 
 Trim some large white endives, lay them a little time in salt and 
 water, then blanch them for a few minutes ; take them up, press out 
 the water, cut each endive in half, if too large, tie each separately up, 
 place them in a stewpan with ham and an onion, and a little good 
 stock, stew until tender; take them up, take off each sprig, keep them 
 the shape, press them a little and glaze them, use them with your 
 cutlets alternately, or anything else you require shred endive for. 
 
 828. — ENDIVES. 
 
 Cut four or five endives according to the size into shreds, put it into 
 a stewpan with one onion, a piece of ham, and a piece of butter, 
 cover it over, put it on a slow fire to roast over, when the endive is 
 tender take out the onion and ham, and add to it some brown sauce, 
 season with sugar, salt, and pepper, boil it well in the sauce. 
 
 829. — ENDIVE Air JUS. 
 Split some endive in half, blanch and drain them, season each 
 with some pepper, nutmeg, and salt, and tie the endive together and 
 put them into a stewpan with some bacon sliced over them ; in the 
 same way put in some veal and beef sliced, two onions, two carrots, 
 two cloves and a bunch of sweet herbs, moisten the whole with the 
 skimmings of consomme, stew the endive for three hours, then 
 drain and press them in a cloth, trim and dish them up for table. 
 
 830. — GXEEN PEAS. 
 
 A delicious vegetable, a grateful accessory to many dishes of a 
 more substantial nature. Green peas should be sent to table green, 
 no dish looks less tempting than peas if they wear an autumnal 
 aspect. Peas should also be young, and as short a time as possible 
 should be suffered to elapse between the periods of shelling and 
 boiling. If it is a matter of consequence to send them to table in 
 perfection, these rules must be strictly observed. They should be 
 as near of a size as a discriminating eye can arrange them ; they 
 should then be put in a cullender, and some cold water suffered to 
 run through them in order to wash them ; then having the water 
 in which they are to be boiled slightly salted, and boiling rapidly, 
 
224 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 
 pour in the peas ; keep the saucepan uncovered, and keep them 
 boiling swiftly until tender ; they will take about twenty minutes, 
 barely so long, unless older than they should be ; drain completely, 
 pour them into the tureen in which they are to be served, and in 
 the centre put a slice of butter, and when it has melted stir round 
 the peas gently,' adding pepper and salt; serve as quickly and as hot 
 as possible. 
 
 It is commonly a practice to boil mint with the peas, this, how- 
 ever, is very repugnant to many palates, and as it may easily be 
 added if agreeable to the palate, it should not be dressed with the 
 peas although it may accompany them to table for those who may 
 desire the flavour. 
 
 [ 831. — STEWED PEAS. 
 
 Take a quart of young fresh shelled peas and lay them in a 
 stewpan with two ounces of butter, or three if they should be old, 
 an onion cut in four, a very small sprig of mint, two table-spoonfuls 
 of gravy, and one tea-spoonful of white sugar ; stew gently until 
 they are tender, take out the mint and the onion, thicken with flour 
 and butter, and serve Very hot, a lettuce may be chopped up and 
 stewed with them. 
 
 832. — STEWED PEAS. 
 
 Cut in small pieces one or two Cos lettuces, a faggot of mint, a 
 quart of peas, a quarter of a pound of butter squeezed well into 
 the peas, put in one large onion, cover them over, and put them 
 over a slow fire to stew for several hours according to your fire, 
 looking at them often to see they do not burn; have ready a piece 
 of butter worked up with flour, and when the peas are nearly tender 
 put it in, and shake it about, take out the onion and faggot of 
 mint, add a gill of cream, a little sugar, pepper and salt; they should 
 be a little sweet. 
 
 833. — pois a iA PKAN9AISE. 
 
 Into a pan of cold clear spring'water put the eighth of a pound 
 of fresh butter, put in the peas newly shelled, if more than a quart 
 add more butter, work the butter and peas together until the 
 former adheres to the latter, remove them from the basin, and 
 having well drained them lay them in a stewpan and stew them in 
 the butter adhering to them only, they require no other moisture, 
 let them stew gently, occasionally moving them about, in rather 
 better than a quarter of an hour cover them with a thin gravy, or 
 boiling water, but only just cover them, add a sprinkle of salt and 
 boil for half an hour, moisten a little white sugar and add it to the 
 peas thickening with a little butter and flour, shake the peas over 
 the fire for a minute or two, turn them into a very hot dish, and 
 forming into a pyramid send them to table. 
 
 They require no accompanying sauce. 
 
VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 225 
 
 834. PEAS STEWED IN CREAM. 
 
 Put two or three pints of young green peas into a saucepan of 
 boiling water, when they are nearly done and tender drain them in 
 a cullender quite dry; melt two ounces of butter in a clean stewpan 
 thicken it evenly with a little flour, shake it over the fire, but on no 
 account let it brown, mix smoothly with it the fourth of a pint of 
 cream, add half a tea-spoonful of white ; sugar, bring it to a boil, 
 pour in the peas, and keeping them moving until they are well 
 heated, which will hardly occupy two minutes, send them to table 
 immediately. 
 
 835. HOT? TO COOK POTATOES. TO BOIL POTATOES. 
 
 In Ireland potatoes are boiled in perfection ; the humblest pea- 
 sant places his potatoes on his table better cooked than could half 
 the cooks in London trying their best. Potatoes should always be 
 boiled in their "jackets;" peeling a potato before boiling is offering 
 a premium for water to run through it, and go to table waxy and 
 unpalatable; they should be thoroughly washed and put into cold 
 water. In Ireland they always nick a piece of the skin off before 
 they place them in the pot; the water is gradually heated, but 
 never allowed to boil ; cold water should be added as soon as the 
 water commences boiling, and it should thus be checked until the 
 potatoes are done, the skins will not then be broken or cracked until 
 the potato is thoroughly done ; pour the water off completely, and 
 let the skins be thoroughly dry before peeling. 
 
 836. — TO BOIL NEW POTATOES. 
 
 The sooner the new potatoes are cooked after being dug, the 
 better they will eat ; clear off all the loose skins with a coarse 
 towel and cold water ; when they are thoroughly clean put them 
 into scalding water, a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes will be 
 found sufficient to cook them ; strain off the water dry, sprinkle a 
 little salt over the potatoes and send them to table. If very young, 
 melted butter should accompany them. 
 
 837- POTATOES A LA MA1TKE d'h6tEL. 
 
 Boil the potatoes ; before they are quite done take them up, 
 place them aside, and let them get cold ; cut them in slices of a 
 moderate thickness ; place in a stewpan a lump of fresh butter, and 
 a tea-spoonful of flour ; let the butter boil, and add a tea-cupful of 
 broth; let it 'boil and add the potatoes, which you have covered 
 with parsley, chopped fine, and seasoned with pepper and salt, stew 
 them five minutes, remove them from the fire ; beat up the yolk of 
 one egg with a table-spoonful of cold water and a little lemon juice. 
 The sauce will set, then dish up the potatoes and serve. 
 
 838. BOASTED POTATOES. 
 
 Clean thoroughly ; nick a small piece out of the skin, and roast 
 in the oven of the range ; a little butter is sometimes rubbed over 
 the skin to make them crisp. 
 
226 VEGETABLES, SSALADS, ETC. 
 
 839. — BJBOILED POTATOlES. 
 
 Rather more than parboil the potatoes ; pare off the skin, flour 
 them and lay them upon a gridiron over a clear .fire; send them to 
 table with cold fresh butter. 
 
 ,840. — FXIED POTATOES. 
 
 Remove the peel from an uncooked potato. After it has been 
 thoroughly washed cut the potato into thin slices, and lay them in 
 a pan with some fresh butter, fry gently a clear brown, lay them 
 one upon the other in a small dish, and send to table as an entre- 
 mets. 
 
 841. POTATOES A I.A CKEME. 
 
 Boil them, not so much that they will break easily ; cut them 
 into slices of about half an inch, season them with salt and white 
 pepper ; place them in a stewpan with a third part of a pint of 
 bechamel, toss them gently until enough. 
 
 842. — POTATOES GLAZED. 
 
 Boll well ; skin them ; choose the most floury, roll them in yolk 
 of egg, and place them before the fire to brown. 
 
 843. POTATO RISSOLES. 
 
 Boil the potatoes floury ; mash them, seasoning with salt and a 
 little cayenne ; mince parsley very finely and work up with the 
 potatoes, adding eschalot also chopped small; bind with yolk of 
 egg, roll into balls and fry with fresh butter over a clear fire. Meat 
 shred finely, bacon or ham may be added. 
 
 844. POTATO SOT/FFLE. 
 
 Take any number of large, potatoes, the less eyes and the firmer 
 the skin the better. Clean them thoroughly and then bake them; 
 after which cut out a round piece, not quite so large as a half- 
 crown, out of each potato, and remove as much of the inside as can 
 be obtained without damage to the skin. Mash the potatoes with 
 cream, adding a little butter, sprinkle over a little salt, and put to 
 it half a pint of good milk ; give it all a boil; take the white of 
 three eggs, whip them until they froth, add them to the potatoes 
 while they boil, and then make the potatoes into a paste ; return 
 them through the orifice in the skin of the potato until each skin is 
 full ; bake them, and serve. 
 
 845. — POTATO KAG&ITT. 
 
 Mash floury potatoes, make them into balls with yolk of egg, 
 flour, and fry them ; drain off all grease, cover them with brown 
 sauce and serve. 
 
VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 227 
 
 846. A PUREE, OK, SOCJP Otf POTATOES. 
 
 Mash them; after having boiled them quite hot, mix them with. 
 aome fine white veal gravy, thicken with cream ; it Should, when 
 done, be of the consistency of apple sauce. 
 
 847. T ° MASH POTATOES. 
 
 Boil the potatoes as above ; peel them, remove all the eyes and 
 lumps ; beat them up with butter and salt in a wooden mortar until 
 they are quite smooth ; force them into a mould which has been 
 previously floured, turn into a tureen which the flour will enable 
 you easily to do; brown them before the fire, turning gently so as 
 not to injure the shape, and when a nice colour send to table. They 
 are sometimes coated with white of egg, but they may be cooked 
 without. 
 
 848. — POTATO BALLS. 
 
 Mash some floury potatoes quite smooth, season with pepper and 
 salt, add fresh butter until sufficiently moist, but not too much so ; 
 make into halls, roll them in vermicelli crumbled, or breadcrumbs, 
 in the latter case they may he brushed with the yolk of egg, fry 
 them a nice brown. Serve them on a napkin, or round a dish of 
 mashed potatoes which has not been moulded. 
 
 849. — SEAKALE 
 
 Requires to be very well done, there is little occasion to fear dbing 
 it too much; tie in bundles after washing and trimming, boil it iri 
 equal parts of milk and water, and serve it with melted butter. 
 
 It may be laid on toast or not, according to taste. 
 
 After being well boiled it must be thoroughly drained before 
 laying upon the toast ; five-and-twenty minutes will be found suffi- 
 cient to boil it. 
 
 850. — SEAKALE. 
 
 Boil your seakale in milk and water, strain them off; when cold 
 cut them in lengths of three inches, place them endways all round 
 a plain mould until quite full and tight ; if not sufficient seakaltf fill 
 the mould with prepared spinach or mashed potatoes, or broccoli, or 
 sprouts. Cover it over and put the mould in the oven to get thoroughly 
 hot, turn the mould down to drain out the water, then turn it into 
 your dish it is to go upon, pour some good sauce over it and in the 
 dish. 
 
 851. SEAKALE STEWED. 
 
 Trim and wash well, tie in bundles, put it in boiling water into 
 which a handful of salt has been thrown ; after having been boiled 
 twelve minutes lay it to drain, and when free from the water put it 
 in a stewpan, cover it with a rich gravy, stew until quite tender. It 
 should be sent to table in the gravv. 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 852. TO DRESS SPANISH ONIONS. 
 
 Take off two skins, be particular in not cutting the stalk on the 
 root of the onion too much away, if you do when done it will drop 
 to pieces. Take four large onions put them in a stewpan sufficiently 
 large, so that they may not touch each other, put in a small piece of 
 lean York ham and a quarter of a pound of salt butter, cover them 
 close, put them on a slow stove or oven, keeping them turned care- 
 fully until all sides are properly done, they will take about two 
 hours, then take them up and glaze them, thicken the gravy, and 
 season with pepper and salt. 
 
 853. — salsify and' scokzaneka. 
 
 Blanch several heads until the skin will peel off, when you have 
 done that, cut them all in equal lengths, if to be done in batter, 
 dry them in bread crumbs, if for sauce make them hot in a little veal 
 stock, dish them, and pour a good white or brown sauce over them. 
 
 ...'1/ 854. SPINACH. 
 
 "The leaves of the spinach should be picked from the stems ; it 
 should then be well washed in clean cold water until the whole of 
 the dirt and grit is removed; three or four waters should be 
 employed, it will not otherwise be got thoroughly clean ; let it 
 drain in a sieve or shake it in a cloth to remove the clinging water. 
 Place it in a saucepan with boiling water, there should be very little, 
 it will be done in ten minutes ; squeeze out the water, chop it finely, 
 seasoning well with pepper and salt ; pour three or four large 
 spoonfuls of gravy over it, place it before the fire until much of the 
 moisture has evaporated, and then serve. 
 
 855. — spinach a l'anglaise. 
 
 Pick and clean the spinach ; put it into a saucepan without 
 water, keep it pressed down until tender; squeeze out the moisture, 
 return it to the saucepan, from which all the liquid should be 
 removed; pour on it, as it heats, four large spoonfuls of rich gravy, 
 let, all the gravy be absorbed, keep it well stirred; flavour with 
 pepper and salt ; when it is dry, press it into a mould ; turn it out, 
 and serve as hot as possible. 
 
 856. ANOTHEK WAY. 
 
 Pick and wash it thoroughly ; put it into a saucepan, sprinkle it 
 with about a spoonful of salt ; press it down as it heats until it is 
 tender, take it out, press all the moisture out, chop it finely, put it 
 in a dry saucepan with a lump of butter, stir it well ; when the 
 butter is absorbed lay it in a hot dish, spread it over and mark it 
 into dice, lay upon it two or three nicely poached eggs, and serve 
 hot. 
 
 857- — spinach a ia pkan^aise. 
 Cut and wash carefully, place it in a saucepan with a little 
 
VEGETABLES, SALADS, ET£. 229 
 
 water; when it is tender strain off the liquor, and throw the- 
 spinach into clear cold spring water, take small portions of it, and. 
 having pressed the water from it, chop it finely. Lay in a stewpan. 
 a piece of butter and melt it, add the spinach to it, keeping it- 
 stirred until the butter is absorbed by the vegetable ; dredge in a 
 spoonful of flour, until it is commingled with the spinach, add a. 
 quarter of a pint of rich veal gravy, let it boil quickly, keep it 
 stirred ; it may be served up plainly or with sippets round it. The 
 dish is sometimes raised by pouring boiling cream sweetened with 
 white sugar to the spinach instead of the veal gravy. 
 
 858. — SPINACH RAGOUT. 
 
 Having well picked and cleaned the spinach, put it into plenty 
 of boiling water, throw in a small handful of salt, as soon as it 
 readily separates it is done enough ; strain off the liquor, put it 
 into fresh water for ten minutes, strain off the liquor completely, 
 chop the spinach, lay it in a stewpan with a piece of fresh butter, 
 keep it stirred : when the butter has been absorbed, as much well- 
 seasoned gravy soup as will make the consistence of cream may be- 
 added, with a little grated nutmeg, and serve. 
 
 859. — BROILED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Pare some large open mushrooms, leaving the stalks on, paring 
 them to a point; wash them well, turn them on the back of a drying 
 sieve to drain. Put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, some 
 chopped parsley, and shalots, fry them for a minute on the fire;, 
 when melted place your mushroom stalks upwards on a saute 
 pan, then pour the butter and parsley over all the mushrooms ; 
 pepper and salt them well with black pepper, put them in the oven 
 to broil ; when done put a little good stock to them, give them a 
 boil, and dish them, pour the liquor over them, add more gravy, 
 but let it be put in hot ; an hour and a quarter before it is done add 
 four table-spoonfuls of red wine and the liver; serve very hot. 
 
 860. — LETTUCES AND ENDIVES 
 
 Are better I think only cut into pieces or into quarters, and dished 
 neatly round, but they must be done in some good stock and not put 
 into the thick sauce, but when you take them out after being done, 
 you will press and form them, then boil down, their liquor to a glaze, 
 which will, when added to your already thick sauce, give the desired 
 flavour, glaze the quarters before dishing them, pour the sauce under 
 and round. 
 
 861. TURNIPS, WHOLE. 
 
 Pare several large turnips, scoop them out with an iron cutter for 
 the purpose, throw them in water as you cut them, when done blanch 
 them, then strain them off, if for white add bechemel to them ; if 
 for brown, brown sauce ; season as before. 
 
230 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 
 862.— -PUREE: OF TURNIPS. 
 
 ' Pare and cut up several turnips into slices, put them on to boil in, 
 milk and water until tender, strain them on the back of a sieve!. 
 Throw away the liquor, and rub through the turnips ; When done 
 jsut them into a stewpan with a piece of butter, a spoonful of flour, 
 a gill" of cream, a little sugar, salt, and cayenne pepper. 
 
 863. — truffi/es. 
 The truffle, like the mushroom* is a species of fungus common in 
 France and Italy. It grows about eight or ten inches below the 
 surface of the ground. As it imparts a most delicious flavour, it is 
 much used in cooking. Being dug out of the earth it requires a great 
 deal of washing and brushing before it can be applied to culinary 
 purposes. When washed, the water should be warm and changed 
 frequently ; it loses much of, its flavour when dried. 
 
 864 TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE. 
 
 Take ten or twelve well^cleaned truffles, put them into a stewpan 
 on rashers of bacon, add a bay leaf, a seasoned bouquet, a little grated 
 bacon,, some slices of ham, some stock, and a bottle of champagne ; 
 cover them with a piece of buttered paper, put on the lid, and set the 
 stewpan in hot ashes, put fire on the top, and let them stew for an 
 hour ; when done drain them on a clean cloth, and serve on a folded 
 napkin. , 
 
 865. — truffles', tourte of. 
 
 Take two pounds of fine truffles, wash, and pick them into a 
 stewpan with six thin slices of ham, a very little carrot, a sliced onion, 
 a bay leaf, sweet herbs in powder, salt, and champagne; lay rashers 
 of bacon over the whole, and stew them to nearly a jelly ; when cold 
 put the truffles into a crust with all the seasoning, bake the tourte, 
 and serve as usual. 
 
 866. — TRUFFLES EH SURPRISE. 
 
 Take a dozen large truffles of as good a shape and near a size as 
 possible, dress them in some champagne wine, drain, and let them 
 cool, then place them on the flattest side* and with a root -cutter of an 
 inch diameter mark out the centre to within a fourth of their thickness, 
 cut the top of these out with the point of a knife and clear away the 
 remainder, fill up the space thus left with a puree of fowl or game* a 
 salpicon, or any ragout or other puree mixed with bechamel you may 
 think , proper ; when all are filled cover the aperture with the piece 
 taken out, and serve your truffles either in croustade or on a folded 
 napkin. 
 
 867. TO KEEP TRUFFLES. 
 
 After opening a fresh bottle and not requiring them all, return' 
 them into the bottle, filling up the 'bottle with some boiled sherry, 
 
 pnrlr thpm i^nwn until nrqiifj on-ni^i ;-vh 
 
 cork them down until wanted again. 
 
VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 231 
 
 868. — MORELS. 
 
 The morel is a kind of mushroom, and usually dressed in the 
 same manner, for a ragout or garnish they are prepared as follows:— 
 take the largest morels, take off their stalks and split them in two 
 or three pieces, wash and put them into a basin of Warm water to 
 free them from the sand and earth, then blanch and drain and put 
 them into a stewpan with a piece of butter and lemon juice, give 
 them a turn and moisten with white or brown sauce. 
 
 869. — MORELS IN GRAVY. 
 
 Cut, wash, and drain your morels, put them into a saucepan with 
 salt, oil, and pepper, let them boil for half an hour, then add some 
 veal gravy and a little wine, then simmer them till sufficiently done, 
 serve them with the sauce, if th9 latter be too thick squeeze lemon 
 juice in it. 
 
 870. MORELS TO KEEP. 
 
 They should be dried slowly, put in paper bags, and kept in a dry 
 place. 
 
 871. SIDNEY SMITH'S RECEIPT FOR SALAD. 
 
 Two large potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve, 
 
 Unwonted softness to the salad give, 
 
 Of mordant mustard add a single spoon — 
 
 Distrust the condiment which bites so soon ; 
 
 But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a fault 
 
 To add a double quantity of salt ; 
 
 Three times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, 
 
 And once with vinegar, procured from town. 
 
 True flavour needs it, and your poet begs 
 
 The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs. 
 
 Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, 
 
 And, scarce suspected, animate the whole : 
 
 And, lastly, on the flavoured compound toss 
 
 A mag"ic teaspoon of anchovy sauce. 
 
 Then, though green turtle fail, though venison's tougfy 
 
 And ham and turkeys are not boiled enough, 
 
 Serenely full the Epicure may 1 say, — 
 
 Fate cannot harm me — I have dined to day ! 
 
 872. — SALAD PARISIAN. 
 
 Take five very red carrotsand as many turnips, cut all these with 
 a root-cutter into round \pieces an inch long and three eighths of an 
 inch in diameter, cut some asparagus heads and French beans of the 
 same length, toss them all up in a little oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, 
 tarragon, chervil, and minced shalot ; cut three large parboiled 
 potatoes and a red beet root into slices half an inch thick, one 
 wide, and two and a half long ; cut these again into long triangles, 
 place them on a dish alternately, that is, the slices of potato with. 
 
232 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 
 
 the point upwards, and the beet root between each with the point 
 downwards, set them round the dish so as to form a crown six inches 
 in diameter. To give it consistence pour over the bottom of the dish 
 some aspic jelly, and put it on ice to set it; then take thirty 
 champignons, pierce the centre of each, and in these holes stick 
 asparagus heads, French beans, carrots, or beet root, all cut into 
 round pieces an inch and a half long ; dip the champignons into the 
 aspic jelly a little set, and place them alternately on the beet root ; 
 when all are done pour your macedoine of carrots into the crown, 
 mask it lightly with a white magnonnaise in the centre, fix a fine let- 
 tuce heart, with hearts cut in halves or quarters, and serve your salad. 
 
 873. — SALAD. 
 
 Take one or two lettuces, split them in two, thoroughly wash 
 them, and drain the water from them, then cut them into small 
 pieces, and then mix them with small salad, celery, and beet root ; 
 cut in small pieces some young radishes, cut into small pieces sliced 
 cucumber, and an egg boiled hard cut into pieces and garnished about 
 them. Make a sauce with the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, which 
 rub well together in a basin with a wooden spoon, add a little pepper, 
 salt, and mustard, when these are mixed to a smooth paste put in a 
 few tea-spoonfuls of sweet oil, mixing it well between each spoonful; 
 then mix in a few tea-spoonfuls of vinegar in the same manner; when 
 the sauce is mixed according to the ' directions, it will never require 
 shaking, and will always look like cream ; pour this sauce over the 
 salad, or serve it in a cruet. 
 
 HEAD OF a OIGANTfC PRIZE CIXI'MBEII. 
 
POTTED MEATS. 233 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 POTTED MEATS. 
 
 874. BEEF POTTED. 
 
 Take three pounds of lean beef, salt it two or three days with 
 half a pound of salt and half an ounce of saltpetre, divide it into 
 pieces of a pound each and put it into an earthen pan just sufficient 
 to contain it; pour in half a pint of water, cover it close with paste 
 and set it in a slow oven for four hours. When taken from the oven 
 pour the gravy from it into a basin, shred the meat fine, moisten it 
 with the gravy poured from the meat, and pound it thoroughly in a 
 marble mortar with fresh butter until it becomes a fine paste ; season 
 it with black pepper and allspice, or cloves pounded, or nutmeg 
 grated ; put it in pots, press it down as close as possible, put a 
 weight on it and let it stand all night; next day, when quite cold, 
 cover it a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter, and tie it 
 over with paper. 
 
 875. BEEF POTTED. 
 
 Take some lean beef, rub it with salt and salt-petre, let it lie 
 three or four days, then cut in pieces, and boil it, then beat it to a 
 powder, mixing with it some fat, add spice, put it in pots, and pour 
 butter over it. 
 
 876. BEEF POTTED LIKE VENISON. 
 
 Take a whole thin flank of beef, pull off the inward skin, and 
 cut it across and across, particularly in the thickest parts, lay it for 
 six hours in pump water, take as much salt-petre as the quantity 
 of an egg, mix with about two pounds of white salt, and rub it well 
 into the meat ; then sprinkle upon it nearly a pint of wine vinegar, 
 and then let it lie for three or four days, turning and rubbing it 
 once a-day, then rinse it out of the brine with a pint of claret, and 
 season it with cloves, mace, and nutmeg, white and Jamaica pepper, 
 of each a quarter of an ounce, bake all together with savory, 
 thyme, sage, and the rind of a lemon shred together, and then well 
 rubbed into the cuts and slashes on the inside ; then bind it up with 
 tape, and lay it in a long pot; put in the claret, and lay the skins 
 at the top to save it, then bake it. 
 
234 POTTED MEATS. 
 
 877- BIRDS POTTED. HOW TO PRESERVE WHEN THEY BEGIN 
 
 TO GROW OLD. 
 
 When birds are sent a long way they often smell so bad that 
 they can hardly be borne, from the rankness of the butter; by 
 doing them in the following way they will be as if only fresh done. 
 Set a large saucepan of clean water on the fire, when it boils take 
 off the butter at the top, then take the fowls one by one, throw 
 them in the saucepan of water half a minute, take one out and dry it 
 well inside and out, do so till they are all done, scald your pot 
 clean ; when the birds are quite cold season with mace, pepper, 
 and salt, according to taste, put them down close in a pot, put 
 clarified butter over them. 
 
 878.— CHAR POTTED.' 
 
 Cleanse them, cut off their fins, tails, arid heads, and lay them in 
 rows, in a long baking pan ; first season them with pepper, salt, 
 and mace : when done let them stand till cold, pot them; and pour 
 clarified butter over them. 
 
 879. — CHEESE POTTED. 
 
 Take three pounds of Cheshire cheese, and half a pound of the 
 best butter, beat it in a mortar, a large glass of sack, half an ounce 
 of mace beaten and sifted, mix it well, pot it, pour clarified butter 
 over it. 
 
 880. CHICKEN AND HAM POTTED. 
 
 Season some pieces of chicken with mace, cloves, and pepper, 
 and bake it for about two hours in a close covered pan, with some 
 water, then pound them quite small, moistening with either melted 
 butter, or the liquor that they are baked in, pound some, and put 
 this with the chicken in alternate layers, in pots or pans ; press 
 them down tight, and cover them with butter. 
 
 881. GAME OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 Anj' dressed game you may have in your larder. Pound well in 
 your mortar all the tender meat free from skin and bone ; add tp it 
 some pounded mace, allspice, cayenne pepper, salt, and white 
 pepper, a few grains of powdered sugar, an equal quantity, if you 
 have it, of good fat ham. When well pounded rub it through a 
 wire sieve, if you have no ham use an equal quantity of butter 
 instead ; mix it well up again, and place it tightly in earthen 
 shapes ; cover each jar over with clarified butter or lard; turn put 
 with warm water, when required either for breakfast or luncheon., 
 or a second course, dish in or on aspic, garnish with fresh parsley.' 
 
 882. LOBSTERS POTTED. 
 
 Take out the meat as whole as you can, split the 'tail, and 
 remove the gut; if the inside is not watery add that, seastn with 
 
POTTED MEATS. 235 
 
 mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt, and one or two cloves in the 
 finest powder; put a little butter at the bottom of the pan, and the 
 lobsters smooth over it with bay leaves between, and bake it 
 gently. "When done pour the whole on the bottom of a sieve, and 
 with a fork lay the pieces into potting jars, some of each sort, with 
 the seasoning about.it; when cold pour clarified butter over it, but 
 if not it will be good the day after it is done, and if seasoned high 
 and thickly covered with > butter will keep some time. Potted 
 lobsters may be used cold, or as fricasee with cream sauce. 
 
 883. PAETKIDGE POTTED. 
 
 Let your partridges be cleaned, and seasoned with mace, allspice, 
 white pepper, and salt powdered ; rub every part well, then lay them 
 in a stew-pan, breast downwards, putting the birds as close as 
 possible ; put plenty of butter over them, cover the pan with a 
 coarse flour paste, and a paper over that, closely down, and bake ; 
 when cold put the birds into pots, and cover them with butter. 
 
 884. PIGEONS POTTED. 
 
 Be careful that they are fresh, clean and season them with salt, 
 and pepper, lay them close together in a small deep pan, for the 
 closer they are put the less butter they will take. Cover them with 
 butter, tie them over with a thin paper, and bake them ; when cold 
 put them to dry in pots that will hold two or three in each, and 
 pour butter over them, using that which was baked as some ; mind 
 the butter should be thick over them ; if they are done for keeping 
 the pigeons would lie closer and want less butter, if they are boned 
 and put into the pot in an oval form. They may be stuffed with 
 force-meat, made with veal and bacon, &c, and they will eat very 
 well. If a high seasoning is preferred add more allspice, and a 
 little cayenne pepper, before baking. 
 
 885.— ■'-SHKIMPS POTTED. 
 
 Let them be nicely boiled, then pick them out of the shells, and 
 season them well with pepper and salt, and a little mace ; put them 
 closely together in a pot, and set them for about ten minutes in an 
 oven slack, and when cold pour over clarified butter. 
 
 886. SMELTS POTTED. 
 
 Draw out the inside, season with salt, mace pounded, and pepper, 
 lay them in a pan with butter on the top, bake them ; when nearly 
 cold take them out, lay them on a cloth, put them into pots, clear 
 off the butter from the gravy, clarify, and pour it over them. 
 
 887- VEAL POTTED. 
 
 Take part of a knuckle of veal that has been stewed, bake it for 
 the purpose, beat it to a paste, with butter, salt, white pepper, and 
 mace pounded, pot it, and pour clarified butter over. 
 
236 
 
 POTTED MEATS. 
 
 888. VEAL POTTED. 
 
 Take one pound of lean veal, put it into a stew-pan, with two 
 ounces of fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, salt, sifted 
 mace, a bay leaf, allspice, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and mushroom 
 powder, a small quantity of each, a little thyme, savory, and a 
 couple of shalots, chopped fine ; stew them ten minutes, then 
 pound them, add a pound of the mellow part of a boiled tongue 
 beaten to a paste, half a pound of cold fresh butter ; mix all well 
 together, with two eggs, well beaten, then press the mixture down 
 tight in small pots, cover them with paper, and put them into a 
 moderate oven, bake twenty minutes, then pour over them clarified 
 butter. 
 
 e«y. VENISON POTTED. 
 
 Put the venison into a pan, and pour red wine over it, and cover 
 it with a pound of butter, put a paste over the pan, set it in the 
 oven to bake. When done take the meat out of the gravy, beat it 
 well with the butter that has risen to the top, add more if necessary, 
 season with pepper, salt, and mace pounded, put into pots, set them 
 in the oven for a few minutes, take them out; when cold cover 
 with clarified butter. 
 
 890. WOODCOCKS POTTED. 
 
 They are done in the same manner as pigeons are potted. 
 
 ELEGANT DESIGN FOR A PAIR OP SALT CELLARS. 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 237 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 PASTE, MEAT PIES, FISH PIES, PUDDINGS, TARTS, 
 TARTLETS, PUFFS, ETC. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS UPON PIES. 
 
 There are few articles of cookery more generally admired than 
 a good looking and a relishing pie; it may he made of such a 
 variety of things, arid is at all times much liked. In the hall dinners 
 some are hest eaten when cold, and in that case you should not 
 put any suet in the forcemeat you use with them, should the pie 
 he made of meat that requires more dressing to make it tender than 
 the haking of the crust will allow, or should you wish to send it 
 up in a raised pie form, I will make the following observations ; now, 
 for instance, take four pounds of the veiny piece of beef that has fat 
 and lean, first wash it, put it in a stewpan, seasoning it with pepper, 
 
238 PASTKT. 
 
 ground mace, and allspice, pepper and salt, stand it on a very slow fire, 
 let a piece of butter be put at the bottom of the stewpan, which should 
 only just hold it, and cover it over, keep it simmering in its own 
 gravy until it begins to sink down in the stewpan, then add a little 
 more seasoning, some forcemeat, and hard boiled eggs, and if you 
 mean it for a pie dish, add a little gravy in the dish, but if to be 
 in a raised crust do not put gravy now, but when cold and your stock 
 of a strong jelly, put the forcemeat at the bottom, and middle, and 
 top. 
 
 Heating the oven properly is of great consequence in baking, puff 
 paste requires a quick oven, but then if tpo quick it. will,, catch. and not 
 rise,' and if too slow it will be soddened, not rise, and want colour. 
 
 You should always be very particular in making pies either cold 
 or hot, as they are invariably tasted, and most frequently are used 
 at a family dinner. They can be made good of a great variety of 
 meats,- game, and poultry, dressed and raw meats ; and either in 
 earthen JWHtation raised pie, earthen dishes, or paper dishes, or as 
 raised pies; in almost all there is a variation except in the seasoning. 
 
 891.— --BAISED CUUST FOB STANDING PIES. 
 
 Boil water w»tb. £ little lard, or dripping, or butter ; while it is hot, 
 with a spoon, stir jnas much flour as you require, making the paste as 
 stiff as'you can ; work it until very smooth ; when quite smooth, dry the 
 hot stewpan, put your paste into it, and cover it; let it lie some time, 
 that it may get quite cold, then commence your pie. If you cannot raise 
 a pie by your hands into a good shape, you must butter a tin shape, 
 which is made for these occasions, and press it to the sides of the tin, 
 and bake it in the tin, but as it will not colau,T jri,t;h the tin, take it 
 off when done and egg it, and put it again ^nto the oven to get 
 a good colour. If you have not a mould )'ou fflast build your fie, 
 roll your paste of the thickstess to stand, and cut p«t ihe top and the 
 bottom, then roll out a long piece foj; the sj^es; cement .the sidea 
 to the bottom with egg, bringing the former rather fu^th^r out, then, 
 pinch them both together, stick the two sides together witjn egg ? ., f£ett 
 fill your pie, and put on the cover, pinching the hedges together j egg fi 
 all over, ornament the top and sides- ,wath the r^Biaining paste, bake 
 it in a slow oven and fill in good gravy before itrgets cold. 
 
 892. PUFF PASTE FOR PATTIES OB FIKST COUKSE DISHES. 
 
 One pound of butter salt or fresh, and one pound of flour will 
 make a good dish of patty cases, or a large case for a vol-au-vent, 
 and the remainder into a good dish of second course pastry. 
 
 Put your flour upon your board, work finely in with your hands 
 lightly a quarter of the butter, then add water sufficient to make it 
 the stiffness or softness of the remaining butter, each should be the 
 same substance ; work it up smooth, then roll it out longways half 
 an inch thick, place the remainder of the butter cut in slices half 
 way on the paste ; dust flour lightly over it, and double it up, 
 press it down with your rolling-pin, let it lie a few minutes, then 
 roll it three times thinner each time, letting it lie a few minutes, 
 
PASTRY. 239 
 
 between each roll, keep it free from sticking to the board or rolling- 
 pin. This paste is ready for patty-cases, or vol-au-vent, or meat 
 pies. 
 
 893. SECOND COURSE PASTE. 
 
 The paste you have left roll it up together, then roll it a quarter of 
 an inch thick, dot it all over with pieces of butter little larger than a 
 nut, half an inch apart ; double up your paste endways, then . roll it 
 out particularly thin twice ; flour it well each time, when done you can 
 make from this a variety of second course pastry, sprinkling sugar 
 over them when nearly done, holding a red hot shovel or salamander 
 over them to glaze them. 
 
 894. PASTE FOR BORDERS OF DISHES. 
 
 Six or eight yolks of eggs, a few drops of water, a little salt, keep 
 mixing in flour until so stiff you can scarce work it,, beat it and work 
 quite smooth, keep it in the moist until you require it, then roll it 
 out quite thin, and cut out your patterns, placing upon your dishes 
 before it gets too dry, dipping, them on the bottom. Edge in white 
 of eggs. 
 
 895. GUM PASTE. 
 
 Put some gum dragon into a basin with warm water enough to 
 cover one inch above the gum, set this in a warm closet for four and 
 twenty hours; have a new tammy ready laid over a dish, spread it 
 on it and squeeze through as much as you can at first, then open 
 the tammy, then spread the gum out again and then squeeze it ; 
 repeat this till the gum is through, then lay it on the slab, work it 
 well with your hands, put in the juice of lemon and add a pound of 
 double refined sugar by degrees as you work it, but before you have 
 put in the whole of the sugar, put in some of the best starch powder; 
 Mend them well together till the paste begins to make an impression, 
 then roll it in a cloth and let it lie in a damp place for a week; work 
 it with powder and it will cut and mould to any shape. When you 
 want to harden it, set it in the cool, and when you want to colour it, 
 for red use cochineal or carmine, for blue, for violet use indigo, for 
 yellow saffron, for green beet leaves; scald over the fire, the thick 
 part mix with the paste. 
 
 896. GUM PASTE OF GUM DRAGON. 
 
 Put your gum to soak all night, the next day twist the gum 
 through a clean coarse cloth, mix in equal quantity of starch powder, 
 mix well and very stiff, in your mortar. 
 
 897- — GENOESE PASTE. 
 
 The same weight of sugar, butter, flour, and eggs, the grating of a 
 lemon, a pinch of salt, work all this together, add half a 'glass of 
 brandy, a quarter of a pound of ground sweet almonds, and a few 
 
240 PASTRY. 
 
 bitter ones, then spread the paste on a baking sheet quite smooth and 
 even, put it in the oven ; when it is set cut it into any shape you 
 may fancy, return it again into the oven, and brown it on both sides. 
 Dish on a napkin. 
 
 898. FANCY PASTRY. 
 
 Use some fancy cutter, and use the second paste as before, cutting- 
 each piece a quarter of an inch thick, egg them and glaze them, and 
 bake them a light brown, when cold put different coloured sweet- 
 meats, such as apple jelly, red currant jelly into devices upon the top 
 of each piece, dish them upon a napkin. 
 
 899.— SANDWICH PASTRY. 
 
 The prepared second paste you will cut into lengths about three 
 inches and a half or quarter thick, lay each piece on its side upon the 
 baking sheet without paper, each an inch apart ; it will take twenty- 
 four pieces to make a dish. "When half baked cover each piece thickly 
 over with sifted sugar, then return them to the oven until getting a 
 little coloured, take them out and hold the red hot shovel at a distance 
 over them until they are a beautiful gloss, then take them off upon 
 paper on a dish ; spread one piece with some sort of jam, then place 
 the other cup on it until all is done, dish them on a napkin round. 
 
 [900. SWEET OR BISCUIT CRUST. 
 
 Put half a pound of flour on your board, put into it two yolks of 
 eggs, mix this all up that you cannot see the egg, then add a good 
 dessert-spoonful of fine sifted sugar; work it all well in the flour, 
 then work in about two ounces of butter, then mix a. little water 
 or milk sufficient to make a stiff paste. Beat it with your rolling pin 
 well, and work it well with, your hands until quite smooth, roll half 
 a quarter of an inch thickness, for your tarts either for slip tarts or 
 covered, glaze the covered tarts either before going into the oven or 
 after, if first, beat up a little white of egg, spread it on the top of 
 your tart, then cover it with sifted sugar, then gently sprinkle the 
 sugar with water until all is damped, then sugar it again, bake it in a 
 slow fire, notch the edge of your tart very fine. 
 
 901. — APRICOT PIE. 
 
 Take eighteen fine apricots, cut them in halves, and take out the 
 stones, place them in a dish lined with puff paste, add four ounces of 
 powdered sugar, and four ounces of butter lukewarm, then put on the 
 upper crust, glaze with the white of egg, and sprinkle sifted sugar all 
 over, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 902. BEEP STEAK PIE. 
 
 Prepare all as before, but line the dish with slices of potatoes, 
 then meat and seasoning, leave out the eggs but continue the layers 
 
PASTRY. 241 
 
 of potatoes, beat your steaks well, and be sure you have an equal 
 quantity of fat to the steaks ; use stock as before, before baking and 
 after it is done. 
 
 903. BEEF STEAK PIE. 
 
 Take some good steaks, beat them with a rolling-pin, season them 
 with pepper and salt ; fill a dish with them, adding as much water 
 as will half fill it, then cover it with a good crust, and bake it well. 
 
 904. BEEP PIES RAISED WITH TRUFFLES. 
 
 Take a small fat rump of beef, bone it, daub it with pieces of fat 
 bacon, put it into a raised crust with light forcemeat, and plenty of 
 green truffles peeled and whole round it; cover it with a crust, gar- 
 nish, and bake it two hours. Make a sauce with a pint of veal broth, 
 a gill of lemon pickle, a bay leaf, a few chopped shalots, and cayenne 
 pepper, and put in the pie. Two hours afterwards take off the top 
 of the pie, skim the fat from it, glaze the rump, and it will then be 
 readv for table. _* 
 
 905. — CHICKEN PIE. 
 
 Cut up two young fowls with white and cayenne pepper, salt, 
 a little mace, and nutmeg, if spice is approved of, all in the finest 
 powder. Put the chicken, slices of ham, or fresh gammon of bacon, 
 forcemeat, and hard eggs by turns in layers; if it is to be baked in a 
 dish put a little water, but none if in a raised crust. By the time it re- 
 turns from the oven have ready your gravy, if it is to be eaten hot you 
 may add truffles, morels, mushrooms, &c, but not if to be eaten cold. 
 If it is made in a dish, put as much gravy as will fill it, but in a raised 
 crust, the gravy must be nicely strained and then put in cold as jelly; 
 to make the gravy clear you may give it a boil with the whites of two 
 eggs after taking away the meat, and then run it through a fine lawn 
 sieve. 
 
 Rabbits if young and in flesh, do as well. Their legs should be 
 cut short, and the breast bones must not go in but will help to make 
 the gravy. 
 
 906. COLD VEAL OR CHICKEN PIE. 
 
 Lay a crust into a shallow tart dish, and fill it with the following- 
 mixture : — shred cold veal or fowl, and half the quantity of ham, 
 mostly lean, put to it a little cream, season with white and cayenne 
 pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, and a small piece of shalot chopped as 
 fine as possible : cover with crust, and turn it out of the dish when 
 baked, or bake the crust with a piece of bread to keep it hollow, and 
 warm the mince with a little cream, and pour in. 
 
 907- — calf's head pie. 
 Stew a knuckle of veal till Jit for eating with two onions, a little 
 isinglass, a faggot of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, and a few pepper, 
 
 R 
 
242 PASIET. 
 
 corns in three pints of water, keep the broth for the pie. Take off a 
 little of the meat, for forcemeat balls, and let them be used for the 
 family, but boil the bones until the broth is very good : half boil the 
 bead, and cut it into square pieces; put a layer of ham at the bottom 
 of them, some head, first fat then lean, with forcemeat balls, and 
 hard-boiled eggs cut in half, and so on till the dish is full, but be 
 careful not to place the pieces close together or the pie will be too 
 soKd, and there will be no space for the jelly. The meat must be first 
 pretty well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a little nutmeg, put 
 a little water and a little stock into the dish, and cover it with a 
 thickish crust, bake it in a slaw oven, and when done, pour into it 
 as much gravy as it will possibly hold, and do not cut it till perfectly 
 cold, in doing which use a very sharp knife, and first cut out a large 
 slice, going down to tbe bottom of the dish, and wben done thus 
 thinner slices can be cut. : The different colours and tbe clear jelly 
 have a beautiful appearance. 
 
 908. — BUCK PIE. 
 
 Bone a full grown young duck and a fowl, wash them and season 
 with pepper and salt, a little allspice and mace pounded ; put the 
 fowl within the duck, and on the former a calf's tongue pickled red, 
 bailed very tender ami peeled, press the whole close, tbe skins of the 
 legs should be drawn inward, that the body of the fowl may be quite ' 
 smooth; if approved, the space between the sides of the crust may 
 be filled with a fine force-meat. Bake it in a slow oven, either in a 
 dish or raised pie-crust, ornamented. 
 
 909- — &EL PIE. 
 
 . Out middling size eels into lengths of about three inches; after 
 skinning them, mix together pepper, salt, a little chopped parsley, 
 and mushrooms ; lay your fish into the dish, and a few bits of butter^ 
 and a little second stock, and a few drops of essence of anchovies. 
 
 910. — EGG MINCE PIES. 
 
 Take six eggs, boil them hard, then shred them very small, take 
 twice the quantity of suet, chop it very fine, well wash and pick a 
 pound of currants,, shred fine the peel of a lemon, add, them with the 
 juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, maee, nutmeg, sugar, a very small 
 quantity of salt, orange, lemon, and citron, candied. Cover with a 
 very light paste. 
 
 911. EGG PIE. 
 
 Take the yolks of twelve eggs boiled hard, mince them very small ' 
 with their weight in beef suet, add some salt beaten, spice, lemon 
 peel, rose-water, sugar, a quarter of a pound : of dates stoned and 
 sliced, a pound of currants, and an apple shred small;, mix all toge- 
 ther, fill a dish, and bake it. Serve it with a little mace. 
 
PASTRY. 243 
 
 912. — FISH PIE. 
 
 This pie may be made of any fish, salmon, pike, tench, eel, or any 
 other. Scale your fish and cut it into pieces, line your pie dish wfth 
 a good crust, put in the fish with a bunch of sweet herbs, a little salt, 
 some bruised spices, and a layer of butter on the top, put on the crust 
 and bate for an hour and a half; when done remove the fat and put 
 in a vegetable ragout made thus : — stir a little butter and flour over 
 the fire until a pale brown, moisten with half a pint of sherry, some 
 soup maigre, add a few mushrooms, a little salt, and a bunch of herbs; 
 let it boil half an hour, add the soft roes of carp parboiled, stew a 
 quarter of an hour and then put the ragout into the pies. Any 
 vegetable ragout may be used. 
 
 913. GAME PIE. 
 
 ^Cut up your game, and use truffles and whole mushrooms if you 
 have them ; the seasonings as before, but no hard boiled eggsj and 
 add a little port wine with your gravy or stock. If you take the bones 
 from the birds or hare use some forcemeat as layers instead as in 
 former pies, veal and steaks, but no eggs ; if boned you will prepare 
 a good stock from the bon.es, making the pie taste of the very essence 
 of the game, or poultry, or whatever it may consist of. 
 
 914. GOOSEBERRY TIE. 
 
 Make a nice puff paste, line a dish with it, fill with gooseberries, 
 add sugar, cover it, and finish the same as all other pies. 
 
 915. — GIBLET PIE. 
 
 After very nicely cleaning goose or duck giblets, stew them with a 
 small quantity of water, onions, black pepper, faggot of sweet herbs, 
 till nearly done, let them get cold, and if not enough to fill the dish, 
 lay a beef^veal, or two or three mutton steaks at bottom of the dish, 
 put the liquor of the stew to bake with the above, and when the pie 
 is baked pour into it a large tea-cupful of cream. 
 ' As there is scarcely any preserve or fruit but what can be made into 
 creams as well as coffee, tea, and chocolate, my book would be half 
 filled were I to enumerate them all, and make a repetition each time ; 
 but I have endeavoured as plain as possible to lay down the exact 
 groundwork and finishing of a few which will suffice for a hundred, 
 only giving the flavouring of what may be preferred. 
 
 916. — GIBLET PIE. 
 
 Goose giblets. You must boil them, just a short time; when cold 
 chop them in small pieces, and cut the gizzard, heart, and liver in 
 slices, stew them for a quarter of an hour in some good stock; when 
 cold line your dish with veal cutlets, or rump steaks; use hard 
 boiled eggs to this pie, then season up as before, if to go into an 
 imitation raised pie thicken the giblets, — if in a dish garnish as 
 before. 
 
 K 2 
 
244 PASTRY. 
 
 917- — GREEN GOOSE PIE. 
 
 Bone two young green geese of a good size, but first take away 
 every plug and singe them nicety, wash them clean, and season them, 
 high with salt, pepper, mace, and allspice. Put one inside the other 
 and press them as close as you can, drawing the legs inwards ; put a 
 good deal of butter over them, and bake them either with or without, 
 crust, if with the latter a cover to the dish must fit close to keep in 
 the steam, it will keep long. Gravy jellied may be added when 
 served. 
 
 ,' 918. — HARE PIE. 
 Cut a hare in pieces, season with pepper, salt, nutmegs, and mace; 
 put it into a jar with half a. pound of butter, cover down close, 
 and set it in a large saucepan of boiling water, while this is cooking, 
 make a forcemeat thus: take a quarter of a pound of scraped bacon, 
 two onions, a glass of red wine, the crumb of a small loaf, a little 
 sweet marjoram, the liver minced small, season with pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg, mix the whole together with the yolks of three eggs, 
 make a raised crust, at the bottom of which lay some of the forcemeat, 
 then some of the hare, cover alternately, until you have used all the 
 hare, cover in the pie, and bake one hour and a half. 
 
 919. — HERON PIE. 
 
 Pick and singe the bird, break the breast bone, and lay the bird in 
 soak for an hour in warm water and salt, shred some onions, and 
 sweet herbs very fine, make them into balls with a little butter,, 
 pepper and salt them, and add some nutmeg and mace in powder; 
 put some of these into the heron, lard the breast, and lay bacon 
 on the wings; make a raised crust in which place the bird, with 
 the remainder of the balls round it, squeeze in some lemon juice, 
 cover the pie, and bake it. When done raise the top, pour in a little 
 gravy, and let it stand till cold. 
 
 920. — LAMB PIE, SAVOURY. 
 
 Cut the lamb into moderate sized pieces, season well with pepper, 
 salt, cloves, mace, and nutmeg; make a good puif paste crust, put the 
 veal into it, and a few lambs' stones and sweet breads well seasoned, 
 the same as the meat ; put in a dozen oysters, some forcemeat balls, 
 some yolks of hard eggs sliced, and tops of asparagus about two 
 inches long, having first boiled them green, put butter all over the 
 pie, cover on the lid, and bake for one hour and a half in a quick 
 oven. While baking take a pint of gravy, the oyster liquor, a gill of 
 port wine, and a little grated nutmeg, mix all with the yolks of three 
 eggs well beaten, and put it on the fire in a saucepan, keep stirring 
 the same way all the time, when it boils pour it into the pie, put 
 on the lid, and serve. 
 
 921. — LARK PIE A LA PITHIVIERS. 
 
 Take six dozen larks, pick and singe them, split open the backs, 
 
JPASTKY. 245 
 
 take out the insides and mince them, take a pound and a half of 
 good farce, pound the mince with it, and season and stuff the larks 
 with. it. Make a raised crust; at the bottom put a layer of the farce, 
 wrap each lark in a thin slice of ham, place them on it with a bit of 
 butter, cover all with slices of bacon and bay leaves, put on the top 
 crust, and bake the pie for two hours and a half, and then let it stand 
 until cold. 
 
 922. LARK RAISED PIE. 
 
 Make a raised crust in the usual way, lay some farce at the bottom 
 of it, place on it some larks boned, fill up the pie with them, cover, 
 and bake it ; when it is done remove the top crust, draw off the fat, 
 pour in a rich ragout, season highly, and serve open. 
 
 923. LEMON MINCE PIES. 
 
 Take a large lemon, squeeze the juice from it, and boil the outside 
 till it becomes soft enough to beat to a mash, put to it three large 
 apples, four ounces of suet, the same of sugar, and half a pound of 
 currants; add the juice of the lemon, and some candied fruit the 
 same as for other pies. Make a short crust, and fill the patty-pans 
 in the usual way. 
 
 924. — LAMB PIE. 
 
 Make it of the loin, neck, or breast ; the breast of house lamb is 
 one of the most delicate things that can be eaten. It should be very 
 lightly seasoned with pepper, and salt, the bone taken out but not the 
 gristle, and a small quantity of jelly gravy put in hot, but the pie 
 should not be cut till cold, put two spoonfuls of water before baking. 
 
 Grass lamb makes an excellent pie, and may either be boned or 
 not, but not boned is perhaps the best ; season it with pepper and 
 salt, put two spoonfuls of water before baking, and as much gravy 
 when it comes from the oven. 
 
 Note. — Meat pies being fat, it is best to let out the gravy on one 
 side, and put it in again by a funnel at the centre, and a little 
 may be added free of fat. 
 
 925. MINCE MEAT FOB CHRISTMAS PIES. — MISS JANE STRICKLAND'S 
 
 RECEIPT. 
 
 From the " Home Circle." 
 
 Mince pies are truly English. We find several recipes for them 
 in King Richard II. 's cookery book, — a curious volume, reprinted 
 from the original document in the last century, but compiled by that 
 unfortunate monarch's French man-cook. The recipes would surprise 
 Monsieur Soyer, though the work of a countryman of his own. 
 Gobbet pies — for that was the name by which the modern mince pie 
 was then known — were of several kinds: one for Lent was composed 
 of fish and chopped seere (eggs) ; one for Christmas, with the addition 
 
246 
 
 PASTEY. 
 
 of almonds, is much the same as the excellent one now presented to the 
 .readers of the " Home Circle." Take equal quantities of finely shred 
 and chopped beef suet: cold roast beef, well roasted; currants, washed, 
 dried, and picked ; and raisins stoned and chopped ; and apples, 
 pared, cored, and chopped fine. Mix all these prepared ingredients 
 well together, and sweeten with good moist Jamaica] sugar, to taste ; 
 grate off with loaf sugar the peel of two lemons, and grate in two 
 nutmegs. Having well mingled all these materials together, add to 
 them in the proportion of your mince-meat, thus — If you have two 
 pounds of every thing — namely, meat, suet, currants, raisins, and 
 apples, and not quite two pounds of sugar, pour over the mixture a 
 pint of rum, or French brandy, and half a pint of raisin wine. If 
 on conscientious principles the spirits are disliked, raisin wine, of 
 a fine quality, or Lisbon must be added ; but the spirits will keep it 
 three months. Fill a jar with your mince-meat, cram down as hard 
 as possible, and cover with a close fitting lid, tied down with brown 
 paper. In mixing the wine and spirits, let the ingredients all receive 
 their part, but be careful whenever you take out your meat, to cram 
 down that in the jar with a spoon, and cover close. Line your tin 
 dishes, which must be greased or buttered inside, either with puff 
 paste made of equal weight of butter and flour, or with a family paste 
 made with beef or hog's lard and a little fresh butter; fill with mince 
 meat heaped up in the middle of your tin dish, cut slices of candied 
 orange, lemon, and citron peel, and put on your meat, cover in with 
 paste; mark prettily with a knife, and bake in a quick oven; heat 
 them for table — for which the tin dishes give a facility, turn into 
 a hot dish, and serve. These pies are very convenient things, as they 
 are quite good at a fortnight old, as the warming them makes them 
 quite new again. Mince pies are at best not very digestible, therefore 
 persons of delicate habit will be wise to relinquish them altogether. 
 In giving this old English dainty to children great caution should be 
 observed — in fact, none of the condiments prepared for Christmas 
 fare are particularly wholesome, but the turkey and roast beef. 
 
 It was formerly the custom in England for married couples to 
 keep the anniversaries of their wedding days, and on those occasions, 
 as many small mince pies were placed on one dish, on the table, 
 as the host and hostess had been married years. 
 
 926. MINCE MEAT MADE AT DUNCOMB PARK. 
 
 Four pounds of fillet of beef or ox-tongue chopped fine, four 
 pounds <jf beef suet chopped fine, four pounds of sugar, two pounds 
 of apples, three pounds of raisins chopped fine, six pounds of currants 
 well washed, and picked, and dried, the peel of six lemons grated 
 and the juice, an equal quantity of cloves, cinamon, nutmegs, and 
 allspice, pounded and sifted fine; an equal quantity of citron, orange, 
 and lemon peel, and a little salt ; one pint of brandy, the same of 
 white wine and port, mix all well together a week before wanted to 
 use. 
 
PASTRY. 247 
 
 927. — MINCE PIE. 
 
 Take two pounds of scraped beef free from skin and strings, four 
 pounds of suet picked and chopped, six pounds of currants well 
 cleaned and dried, three pounds of chopped apples, the peel and juice 
 of two lemons, a pint of sweet wine, a nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce 
 of cloves, the same of mace, and the same of pimento finely powdered ; 
 mix all well together, put it into a pari, and keep it covered in a dry, 
 cool place. Put a little citron, orange, and lemon peel in the pies 
 when made. 
 
 928. MINCE PIES WITHOUT MEAT. 
 
 Take of currants, apples chopped fine, moist sugar, and suet well 
 chopped, a pound of each, a quarter of a pound of raisins stoned and 
 chopped small, the juice of four Seville oranges, the juice of two 
 lemons, the rind of one shred fine, nutmeg and mace to suit the 
 palate, and a glass of brandy. Mix all together, put it in a pan, and 
 keep it closely tied up. 
 
 929. MUTTON PIE JIEIJS RAISED. 
 
 Take the most meaty part of a leg of mutton, and mince with it 
 any game, poultry, or even meat which may have been left from the 
 previous dinner. Make a mince likewise of some ham, one pound 
 of beef-suet, some fat bacon, truffles, pistachio nuts, the yolks of five 
 eggs boiled hard, add cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, allspice, and pepper, 
 some sweet herbs, and two glasses of brown brandy ; put all into a 
 good raised crust, cover it, and bake it in an oven heated to a mode- 
 rate heat for five hours and a half. Serve cold. 
 
 930. — MUTTON pie. 
 
 Cut steaks from a neck or loin of mutton that has hung, beat 
 them and remove some of the fat, season with salt and pepper and a 
 little onion; put a little water at the bottom of the dish and a little 
 paste on the edge, then cover with a moderately thick paste, or raise 
 small pies, and break each bone in two to shorten it, season and 
 cover it over, pinching the edge. "When they come out of the oven 
 pour into each a little second stock. 
 
 931: PARTRIDGE OB PIGEON PIE. 
 
 Cover the bottom of your dish with slices of veal and bacon, chop 
 some parsley, onion, and mushroom, an* if you have it, truffles ; 
 sprinkle it all over the veal. If your birds are boned, season the inside 
 with the same, adding some fine bread crumbs, lay them on the veal, 
 then cover the birds with slices of fat bacon, put in a few spoonfuls 
 of good stock 
 
 932. — PARTRIDGE PIE— SIMPLE. 
 
 :. Pick and siege four partridges, «ut off the legs at the knee and 
 
248 PASTBY. 
 
 give them a good seasoning of pepper, salt, chopped parsley, thyme, 
 and mushrooms; lay at the hottom of the dish a veal cutlet and a 
 slice of ham, and then put in the partridges, add half a pint of a 
 good poultry consomme, line the edge of the dish with a puff paste, 
 cover it with paste of the same kind, brush it over with egg and bake 
 one hour. 
 
 933. A PERIGORD PIE. 
 
 Make a forcemeat, chiefly of green truffles, a small quantity of 
 sweetherbs, parsley, and skalots, and the liver of all game, and some 
 fat livers, fat bacon a good quantity, a few bread crumbs, pepper and 
 salt, and cayenne pepper, the flesh of wild or tame fowls. Lard the 
 breast of pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, moor-game, or whatever 
 birds you have, add a little more in your seasoning, make a good 
 thick crust to hold all the above ingredients, or a dish will do ; line 
 the case with good fresh fat bacon, cover that with forcemeat, then put 
 the different colours of game and fowl upon it with whole green, but 
 pared truffles, then more forcemeat, and so on until full, but not 
 press them down, let them lie lightly one on the other, or they may 
 not all get sufficiently baked ; at the top of all cover with good fat 
 bacon, and over that a common paste crust. Bake it in a slow fire ; 
 it will take a long time to soak it well ; before cold, add some good 
 jellied stock made from the bones, &c. 
 
 If you wish for any birds whole in it, they mu3t first be boned and 
 filled with truffles and forcemeat, and kept in the middle, the rest 
 all round them. 
 
 934. — PIGEON PIE. 
 Proceed in the same way as No. 953, but instead of ham at bottom 
 of dish put a good beef or rump steak; truss your pigeons'^as for stewing, 
 the legs pressed in the sides ; if you are short of pigeons cut them in 
 half and use more steak, do not forget the eggs and the former sea- 
 sonings ; put a slice of fat ham on the top of the last pigeons. 
 If you bone the pigeons fill the insides with veal forcemeat, put the 
 feet of the pigeons to ornament the outside ; pour when baked 
 some good stock into it while hot. 
 
 935. — PIGEON PIE. 
 
 Make a little batter, and put into it some chopped parsley, lemon, 
 thyme, and a few mushrooms ; stew for a few minutes in this batter 
 half a dozen young pigeons with pepper and salt in their insides, 
 turn them, and when they begin to fry add enough consomme to 
 cover them, in which they must stew until well done, remove them 
 from the fire to cool. Have made in the meanwhile a good puff 
 paste, a portion of which roll out and line the edge of the dish, put 
 in the pigeons with the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, pour over 
 them half the liquor in which they were stewed, season with pepper, 
 and salt, and cover with the top crust ; ornament according to taste, 
 leaving a hole in the centre ; brush it lightly over with egg, and bake 
 
PASTBY. 249 
 
 it in an oven of a moderate heat; do not let it brown too much. 
 When it is done you may add a little butter sauce to the remaining 
 half of the liquor in which the pigeons were stewed ; make it very 
 hot, and pour it on the pie. 
 
 Serve hot either as a side dish or as a remove. 
 
 936. PIE HOT RAISED, ANGLO-FKAN^AISE. 
 
 Take the fillets from four loins of mutton, trim and cut them into 
 scollops, season well with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, dissolve slowly 
 three quarters of a pound of butter, and the moment it becomes 
 liquid put into it two spoonfuls of parsley, four of mushrooms, the 
 same of truffles, a shalot, all shred fine. Make a raised crust of 
 whatever size and form you please, and having soaked the fillets in 
 the butter and herbs, lay them on the pie en couronne; fill up 
 the centre with mushrooms minced truffles, artichoke bottoms, veal 
 sweetbreads; pour the remainder of the butter and herbs over; cover 
 them with two bay leaves, slices of bacon ; the lid and the walls or 
 sides decorate tastefully, dorez and set it in a brisk oven ; when you 
 find the top is sufficiently done cut it off, and lay in its place three 
 or four sheets of paper, and put the pie in the oven; an hour and 
 a half is the time required for baking. As soon as done take out the 
 bacon and bay leaves, and pour in a demi-glaze of mutton, mixed 
 with an essence of truffles and mushrooms and the juice of a lemon; 
 glaze the crust, and serve quite hot. 
 
 937- — ME HOT RAISED, A LA MONGLAS. 
 
 Soak two fine fat livers in warm water till they are quite clean; 
 then set them on the fire in cold water, when near boiling take out 
 the livers and throw them into cold water again, and when cool cut 
 them into scollops, season them well, and having melted a quarter of 
 a pound of butter, the same of grated bacon, a dessert-spoonful of 
 parsley, two of mushrooms, four of truffles, all shred fine, a small 
 piece of shalot blanched and minced, salt and spice to your taste, 
 put the livers into this, set it on the fire for ten minutes; then set it 
 by, and when cold trim the pieces, take about a fourth part of them 
 with the trimming, pound them, mix some with an equal quantity of 
 good fowl farce. Having raised a crust in the usual way, line the inside 
 with the farce, lay the livers in proper order in it, pour in the herbs, 
 and place on the whole two bay leaves and slices of bacon, lay on 
 the top and finish as above directed. When done pour in a sauce 
 made as follows : — Take the pounded liver that was set aside, put it 
 in a saucepan with a spoonful of espagnole, make them hot, and 
 having strained, add to them ladlefuls of espagnole worked up with 
 a fowl consomme, some Madeira wine, and four truffles minced, 
 make this very hot, but do not let it boil. 
 
250 PASTRY. 
 
 938. PIE RAISED HOT, A LA. FINAKCIEKE. 
 
 Make a raised crust of any form you please ; line the inside with 
 slices of bacon, and fill it up with beef suet chopped fine; decorate 
 the exterior of the pie to your fancy, dorez and put it in a quick 
 oven for an lour,- then take it out, and when it is a little cooled take 
 out all the contents, half fill it with fowl or game, quenelle, and finish 
 with ragout of lambs' sweetbreads, cocks' combs, and kidneys, mush- 
 rooms, truffles, artichoke bottoms, six cray fish, same of cray fish 
 tails, pour in some good espagnole worked up with a fowl consomme, 
 flavoured with truffles, some Rhenish or dry Madeira wine, glaze 
 them lightly, and serye as quickly after it is baked as you can. 
 
 939. PIE RAISED HOT, BUSSIAN. 
 
 Take a salmon and a liver, cut them into scollops, and 'simmer 
 both, but separately, in some butter, with shred parsley, mushrooms, 
 truffles, shalots, salt, pepper, nutmeg ; mince the yolks of a dozen 
 hard eggs. Make a raised crust in the usual manner, put in a layer of 
 rice previously boiled in chicken broth but cold, as should be all the 
 materials, on this lay some of the scollops of salmon, on which strew 
 a layer of egg, then a layer of liver, strew the egg then the salmon 
 again, and so wi till your pie is full ,• then pour in the butter and 
 herbs, cover the whole with rice, aad finish the job according to 
 the above directions. 
 
 940. PIE RAISED, TO BE SERVED HOT. 
 
 Make a stiff paste as directed for raised pies, which mix with 
 ■warm water; when well mixed together roll it out thin, cut a piece 
 out for the bottom and two for the sides, according to the shape of 
 the dish; egg the edges you intend to join, and press them well 
 together, so that the joining may not be seen ; shape it, garnish irt 
 with leaves or festoons, according to your taste, fill it nearly to the 
 top with bran, egg it, and let it be baked in a moderate oven ; when 
 done of a light colour turn out the bran, and set it ready for what 
 you intend to put in, which may be cutlets of mutton stewed with 
 vegetableSi, partridge farced with a brown sauce, chickens cut upj a 
 ragout in a brown sauce, stewed carp or eels. 
 
 941.— FORK PIE. 
 
 Cut a piece of the loin of pork into chops, remove the rind and 
 
PASTRY. 251 
 
 bone, cut it into pieces, season well with pepper amd salt, cover with 
 puff-paste, bake the pie. When ready to be served, put in some 
 cullis, with the essence of two onions mixed with a little mustard. 
 
 942. — POBK PIES TO EAT COLD. 
 
 Raise common boiled crust into either a, round or oval form as 
 you choose, have ready the trimmings and small hits of pork cut off 
 when a hog is killed, and if these are not enough take the meat off the 
 sweet hone, beat it well with a rollingpin, season with cayenne and 
 white pepper and salt, and keep the fat and lean separate, put it in 
 layers, quite close up to the top, lay on the lid, cut the edge smooth 
 round and pinch it, bake it in a slow oven as the meat is very solid. 
 See " Paste for raised Pies." 
 
 The pork may be put into a common dish with a very plain crust, 
 and be quite as good ; observe to put no bone or water into pork pie, 
 the outside of the pieces will be hard unless they are cut small and 
 pressed close. 
 
 943. — EAISED PIE. 
 
 Take the bones out of a pheasant, two partridges, one hare, two 
 rabbits ; have ready some good forcemeat, with truffles and mush- 
 rooms ; get a stewpan ; and suppose you have the case of your pie, 
 line your stewpan with a thick slice of fat ham, have your birds 
 stuffed with good forcemeat, and truffles, and mushrooms, lay them 
 alternately, white and brown meat, with a boiled tongue in the 
 middle. After being trimmed and got ready, use your seasoning 
 between each layer as before, when all in cover it with slices of fat 
 ham, put in a little second stock, cover your stewpan and put it in a 
 slow oven to stew for two or three hours until well baked. Before it 
 is cold place it tightly, as it now is, into the prepared baked raised 
 pie case, but first remove the hot fat ham, then strain off what 
 remains in the stewpan, take off all the fat, season it a lit&e more, 
 and add a little more good consomme, and boil it down a little with 
 two glasses of port wine, then put it all in by degrees, gently raising 
 the meat with your knife to sink well in amongst the meat, put to 
 get cold, and when cold put either aspic jelly or consomme on the top. 
 
 You can place this all in the earthen or stone imitation pie shape; 
 garnish with parsley, and be sure to press the meat when hot tightly 
 in. the dish, that it may cut firm when cold. 
 
 944. RAISED PHEASANT PIE HOT. 
 
 Hang two pheasants five days, pick, singe, and cut them up and 
 
252 
 
 PASTEY, 
 
 parboil them with some sweet herbs, make a raised crust four inches 
 high and seven round, let it incline inwards at the middle all round> 
 so that the top and bottom are wider than the sides; upon the bottom 
 and sides spread a good godiveau or farce with two truffles minced 
 small, upon this lay the legs and back of the pheasants, add five 
 truffles cut in half, over these lay the fillets and breast, then another 
 layer of truffles, then other portions of the bird, and continue 
 alternately with truffles, until the whole of the birds are in the pie ; 
 pour upon them the herbs, &c, in which they were cooked, lay on 
 two bay leaves and cover with slices of bacon, place a paste over the 
 top ornamented to taste, dorez, i. e., wash over with well beaten 
 yolk of egg and put it into a brisk oven, as soon as it is nicely 
 coloured remove the top, and cut four pieces of paper nine inches 
 round, put them in the place of the lid of the pie, let it bake an hour 
 and a half, drain off the fat und pour in an espagnole with some 
 minced truffles, glaze the crust and serve as quickly after taking 
 from the oven as possible. 
 
 945. — RABBIT PIE. 
 
 Cut into quarters a couple of young rabbits ; bruise in a mortar a 
 quarter of a pound of bacon, with the livers of the rabbits, pepper 
 and salt, a little parsley cut small, mace, and two or three leaves of 
 sweet basil ; beat them up fine, line your dish with a nice crust, put 
 a layer of the seasoning at the bottom, and then put in the rabbit ; 
 pound some more bacon in the mortar, mis it with some fresh butter, 
 lay it over the rabbits, and cover with thin slices of bacon ; now put 
 on the paste to form the top, and then place it in the oven. It will 
 take two hours to bake. When done, take off the top of the pie, 
 remove the bacon, skim off the fat, and, if required, add some rich 
 veal or mutton gravy. 
 
 946. — SNIPE PIE. 
 
 Bone three snipes, fill them with a light forcemeat, adding the 
 trails and some truffles pounded; put the birds in a deep dish, with a 
 small layer of forcemeat all round ; cover with a puff-paste, egg it, 
 ornament it to fancy, and put it into the oven. When about three 
 parts done, lift up the lid, pour in some good cullis, a glass and a 
 half of Madeira. Season with cayenne pepper and lemon juice, cover 
 down, and finish baking. 
 
 947 , — sole PIE. 
 Skin and cut two pounds of eels, boil them in a pint and a half of 
 water until quite tender, bone them, and put the flesh into the liquor 
 in which they were boiled, adding a blade of mace and a little salt ; 
 boil them until the liquor is reduced to the fourth of a pint; strain 
 and chop the eels very fine, and with it a little lemon peel, a little 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a few bread crumbs, parsley, and an an- 
 chovy, minced; mix all with four ounces of butter, and you will have 
 a delicious forcemeat. Put it into a pie dish, cut the meat from a pair 
 
PASTRY. 253 
 
 of large soles, lay it upon the forcemeat, pour in the liquor in which 
 the eels were stewed, cover with puff-paste, and bake it a nice brown 
 — twenty minutes will suffice, if the fire is steady. 
 
 948. — STAFFORDSHIRE GOOSE PIES 
 
 Are made with birds prepared and seasoned as for green goose 
 pie. A goose is to be outward succeeded by a turkey, duck, fowl, 
 and lesser birds, tongue or force-meat, (force-meat may fill up the 
 spaces between the crust and fowls, and be omitted within) ; the 
 crust should be ornamented, and the top have a flower by which to 
 lift it, as it must not be cut but be kept to cover the pie. 
 
 A smaller and less expensive pie may be made without the goose 
 and turkey. 
 
 949. — SQUAB PIE. 
 
 Cut apples as for other pies, and lay them in rows with mutton 
 chops, shred onions, and sprinkle it among them, and also some 
 sugar. 
 
 950. — TENCH PIE. 
 
 At the bottom of a dish put a layer of butter, grate in some 
 nutmeg, add pepper, salt, and mace; lay in the tench, cover them 
 ■with butter, pour in two wine glasses of red wine, or one glass of 
 ■wine and one of water, cover with a light paste, and when done pour 
 in some melted butter, enriched with some good gravy. 
 
 951. VEAL OR CHICKEN AND PARSLEY/ PIE. 
 
 Cut some slices from the leg or neck of veal; if the leg from 
 about the knuckle. Season them with salt, scald some picked parsley 
 and squeeze it dry, chop it a little and lay it at the bottom of the 
 dish, then put the meat, &c, in layers ; fill the dish with new milk, 
 but not so high as to touch the crust ; cover it, and when baked pour 
 out a little of the milk, and put in half a pint of good scalded cream. 
 Chicken may be cut up, skinned, and made the same way. 
 
 952. — VEAL OLIVE PIE. 
 
 Make the olives as directed before, put them round the dish, 
 making the middle highest; fill it almost with water, and cover it. 
 Add gravy, cream, flour, and mushrooms when baked. 
 
254 PASTRY. 
 
 953. VEAL PIE IN A DISH. 
 
 First of all get all your ingredients ready, namely, top,, parsley, 
 shalots, or onions, mushrooms, pepper and salt, mint, four eggs boiled 
 hard, a little good second stock, now your paste. After you have 
 made patties or any first or second course pastry, tie paste that remains 
 will do, be sure to put an edging of paste to your dish ; first lay 9 
 layer of lean and fat ham,; or mild bacon, then sprinkle it over with 
 the prepared ingredients, then a layer of real, and the fore quarter: of 
 one egg, then another layer of ham and parsnips as before, and keep on 
 repeating it until quite full,, letting the middle be much higher than 
 the sides; put a little drop of second stock into ft, bake it in a slow 
 oven ; be sure aud cut a hole in the top, and if yon like ornament it 
 with loaves of paste; after egging the top, well notch the edge. Pour 
 some good white stock into it when done and hot. 
 
 954. TO MAKE AN ALMOND PUDDING. 
 
 Pound in your mortar a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, add 
 a table-spoonful of water when you are pounding, take it out of the 
 mortar; have ready broken seven eggs, leaving out five of the whites, 
 add a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, mix all lightly together; cut 
 in small dice a little candy, orange, and lemon peel, butter and 
 paper a plain mould, or one that will open ; bake it in a moderate 
 oven. 
 
 955i ALMOND PCDDINS. 
 
 Mix a pound of grated bread, a nutmeg, half a pound of butter, 
 and the yolks of six eggs; boil a pint of cream slightly coloured 
 with saffron, put in the eggs and a little flour, knead it well, then add 
 a pound of blanched sweet almonds pounded with a little rose-water; 
 beat the ingredients till well rmixedij and boil for half an hour in 
 a buttered cloth. 
 
 950s. — ALMOND PODDING, BAKED. 
 
 Take four ounces of crumbs of bread, slice or grate into a pint and 
 a half of cream. ; beat, half a pound of blanched almonds to a paste 
 with, two spoonfuls of orange flower water; beat up the whites of 
 eight eggs and the yolks of four ; mix all these well 1 , add a quarter 
 of a pound of loaf sugar, and stir in three ounces of melted butter,' 
 put it over the fire and keep stirring until it becomes thick, place a 
 sheet of paper at the bottom of a dish, pour in the mixture, and bake 
 half an hour. 
 
 957- AMBER PUDDING. 
 
 Put a pound of butter with three quarters of a pound of powdered 
 sugar into a saucepan ; when melted and well mixed add the yolks of 
 fifteen eggs. b«atem, colour and flavour it with candied orange beaten 
 to a paste. Fill with the above a dish lined with paste, place a crust 
 over, and bake in a slow oven. 
 
PASTKY. 255 
 
 958. APRICOT PUDDING. 
 
 "Whip trp a pint of milk, or cream, six eggs, four table-spoon- 
 fuls of fine flour, a little salt, and a small portion of cinnamon. 
 Rub the apricots through a sieve, and add enough of the pulp to 
 make the whole rather thicker than batter, sweeten, pour it into 
 a buttered basin, and. boil an hour and a quarter ; serve with melted 
 butter. 
 
 959. BATTER PUDDING. 
 
 Put into a stewpan six spoonfuls of flour, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 and half a nutmeg grated, mix them with, a pint and a half of new 
 milk, and stir in six eggs beaten; pour the batter into a well-buttered 
 basin or mould, tie it tight with a cloth, and boil it two hours and a 
 half. Or it may be baked — three quarters of an hour will be suffi- 
 cient. Stoned raisins or currants may be added. 
 
 960. BATTER BUDDING WITHOUT EGGS. 
 
 Take six spoonfuls of flour, mix it with a small portion of a quart 
 of milk, then add the remainder of the milk, a tea-spoonful of salt, 
 two tea-spoonfuls of grated ginger, and two of tincture of saffron ; 
 mix together well, and boil it an tour. Raisins or currants may be 
 added. 
 
 961. BATTER PUDDING. WITH OR WITHOUT SUGAR. 
 
 Beat up six eggs„ put about a pint of milk in a basin, stir in. by 
 degrees about half a pound of flour, add a little salt, mix in your 
 eggs with a gill of cream, strain all through a very fine sieve or 
 tammy, butter your mould, and steam it as all other things are 
 steamed, tie a cloth over the mould. Send up a sweet sauce, or 
 melted butter, or hot currant jelly; if suet, add to your eggs some 
 sifted sugar. 
 
 902. BARLEY PUDDING. 
 
 To a pound of pearl barley well washed add three quarts of new milk, 
 half a pound of double refined sugar, and a nutmeg grated ; then 
 bake it in a deep pan. Remove it from the oven, beat up six eggs, 
 mix well together, pour it into a buttered dish, and bake it again for 
 an hour. 
 
 963.— BEEP STEAK PUDDING. 
 
 Beat some steaks with a rolling-pin, season them, and roll them 
 with pieces of fat between — if liked, a little shred onion may be 
 added. Line a basin with a paste of suet, put in the rollers of steak, 
 cover the basin with a crust, press the edges to keep the gravy in, 
 cover with a cloth tied close, and boil the pudding slowly for some 
 length of time. 
 
 964. BISCUIT PUDDING. 
 
 Pour a pint of boiliag milk over three Naples biscuits grated; cover 
 
256 PASTET. 
 
 it close, and when cold add the yolks of four eggs, the whites of two, 
 a small quantity of brandy, half a spoonful of flour, nutmeg, and 
 some sugar. Boil it in a basin for an hour. 
 
 965. BRANDY PUDDING. 
 
 Take some dried cherries or jar-raisins stoned and line a mould 
 with them, add some thin slices of French roll, and a layer of rata- 
 fias or macaroons, then repeat the layers of fruit, rolls, and cakes, till 
 the mould is full, pouring in at intervals two glasses of brandy. Beat 
 four eggs, whites and yolks separately, add to them a pint of milk or 
 cream slightly sweetened, half a nutmeg, and the rind of half a 
 lemon grated, pour it into the mould, and when it has penetrated the 
 solid, flour a cloth, tie it tight over, and boil an hour. Be careful to 
 keep the mould the right side upwards. 
 
 966. BREAD PUDDING. 
 
 Soak two or three French rolls, cut into slices in a pint of cream 
 or good milk, add the yolks of six eggs beaten, some sugar, orange 
 flower water, three pounded macaroons, and a glass of white wine j 
 tie it up in a basin or buttered cloth, put the pudding in boiling 
 water, and let it boil for half an hour. Serve with wine sauce. 
 
 967- BREAD (BROWN) PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of stale brown bread grated, the same quantity 
 of currants and shred suet, and a little nutmeg and sugar, add 
 four eggs, a spoonful of brandy, and two spoonfuls of cream ; boil 
 in a basin or cloth full three hours. 
 
 968.— BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 
 
 Take a penny loaf, cut it into thin slices of bread and butter, place 
 a layer of them in a buttered dish, sprinkle currants on them, and 
 repeat the layers of bread and butter and currants till the dish is full. 
 Beat up four eggs with a pint of milk, a little salt, nutmeg, and 
 sugar, and pour over the pudding. Cover with a puff-paste, and 
 bake it for half an hour. 
 
 969. BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 
 
 Prepare as No. 999, but no paste rim, cut thin bread and butter, 
 or French rolls, cut off the crust, and trim the bread neatly, sprinkling 
 currants, well washed, instead of the peels, as in the former : pour 
 your milk and eggs, by degrees, over it, and, as it soaks in, add^more, 
 make it, in baking, a nice light brown. 
 
 970. CABINET PUDDING. 
 
 Put on to boil about a pint of milk, add into it the paring'of a 
 lemon free from the white, a piece of cinnamon, four or five cloves, 
 and a bay leaf, sugar till the flavour of all is abstracted; break into a 
 basin a quarter of a pound of ratafia biscuits, and eight or nine 
 
PASTRY. 257 
 
 sponge biscuits, or some stale savoury cake ; then pour upon them 
 some brandy and a little white wine. Break five eggs into it and well 
 mix it, then let the milk cool, strain it to it; butter a plain mould 
 well and ornament it with dried cherries, steam it as former puddings 
 for an hour and a half, make a good sauce with brandy and wine in 
 it, and a gill of cream, and a little lemon juice. 
 
 971- CABINET PUDDING. 
 
 " Should you not have at command the things named in the above, 
 use the crumb of the lightest bread you have, in that case strain the 
 boiling milk upon the bread, blanch and chop very fine and pound 
 a few bitter almonds and put to it, then wine and brandy, eggs, &c, 
 use some raisins stoned to ornament the mould with, steam it, and 
 use sauce as before. 
 
 972. CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 Take a pint of cream, six eggs well beaten, two spoonfuls of flour, 
 half a nutmeg grated, and salt and sugar to taste ; mix them together 
 butter a cloth and pour in the batter, tie it up, put it into a sauce- 
 pan of boiling water and boil it an hour and a half. Serve with, 
 melted butter. 
 
 973. CUSTARD PUDDING. 
 
 Prepare your milk as in No. 1119, add to your eggs two good spoon- 
 fuls of flour, and a glass of brandy, or a stick of vanilla or noyeau ; the 
 vanilla you will boil in the milk. When all is cold and strained 
 break two eggs and add to it ; butter a plain mould, steam it as other 
 puddings ; pour hot currant jelly over it, or apricot jam. If baked 
 put a puff paste rim to the dish. 
 
 974. CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Cut a sufficient number of thin slices of white bread to cover the 
 bottom and line the sides of a baking dish, first rubbing it thickly 
 with butter ; put thin slices of apples into the dish in layers till the 
 dish is full, strewing butter and sugar between. In the meantime 
 soak as many thin slices of bread as will cover the whole in warm 
 milk, over which place a plate and a weight to keep the bread close 
 upon the apples ; let it bake slowly for three hours ; for a middle 
 sized dish you should use half a pound of butter for the whole. 
 
 975. CHARLOTTE AN ENTRBMET. 
 
 Cover the bottom and sides of a baking dish, thickly buttered, 
 with thin slices of white bread; fill up the dish with slices of apples 
 cut thin, stowing sugar and pieces of butter between. Cover the 
 whole with thin slices of bread previously soaked in warm milk; 
 place a plate and a weight on the top to keep'the bread close upon 
 the apples and bake it slowly for three hours ; half a pound of butter 
 will be required for a middling sized dish. 
 
258 PASTKY. 
 
 976. CHARLOTTE A LA FRANCAISE 
 
 Is made in the same manner as the Parisienne, with the exception 
 that croquettes a la Parisienne, and a cream blanc mange are used 
 instead of the Pestachio hiscuits and fromage bavarois. 
 
 977- — CHARLOTTE A L'lTALIENNE. 
 
 Cut in pieces some rum genoises like spoon biscuits, to make a 
 small entremet ; line a mould, a plain round one, ■with them ; fill the 
 interior with rum cream plombiere in which you have put four^ drams 
 of clarified isinglass, cover the cream with genoises and finish as in 975. 
 
 [978. CHARLOTTE A LA PARISIENNE. 
 
 Of well glazed spoon biscuits take four ounces cut in thin slices, 
 and then into lozenges, a case of green pistachio biscuits; at the 
 bottom of a plain octagon mould arrange these pieces in the form of 
 a star. "With the pieces left line the inside of the mould, putting the 
 pieces upright, the glazed side being turned next to the mould ; fill 
 up the interior with a vanilla fromage bavarois, but this must not he 
 done until it is just ready to send to table, cover the fromage with 
 biscuits, surround the mould with pounded ice, let it remain three 
 quarters of an hour and then turn it on to a dish and serve. 
 
 979. — CHARLOTTE A LA RUSSE. 
 
 Meringues, with pools of jam. 
 
 930. — CITRON PUDDING. 
 
 Take a pint of cream and the yolks of six eggs, beat them together, 
 add four ounces of sugar, the same of citron shred fine, two spoon- 
 fuls of flour, and a little nutmeg. Place this mixture in a deep dish, 
 bake it in a quick oven, and turn it out. 
 
 981. — CURRANT PUDDING. 
 
 Take a pound of currants, a pound of suet, five eggs, four spoonfuls 
 of flour, half a nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of ginger, a little powdered 
 sugar, and a little salt. Boil this for three hours. 
 
 982. CHERRY PUDDING. 
 
 Line a well-buttered basin with a paste made of butter, or suet 
 chopped small, rubbed into flour, put in picked cherries, cover the 
 top with a crust and boil it. Fruit puddings may be boiled in a 
 cloth without a basin. 
 
PASTRY. 259 
 
 983. — ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Make a plain batter pudding, but rather thicker, and with more 
 eggs than for plain boiling, place in picked cherries, taking care not 
 to break them, and boil it in a cloth. 
 
 984. — CURD PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Take the curd of two gallons of milk well-drained, rub it through 
 a sieve, and mix it with six eggs, a little cream, two spoonfuls of 
 orange flower water, half a nutmeg grated, three spoonfuls of flour, 
 the same of bread crumbs, half a pound of currants, and the same 
 of raisins stoned. Boil it for an hour in a thick cloth well floured. 
 
 985, — CARROT PUDDING. 
 
 Take a large carrot, boil it soft, bruise it in a marble mortar, and 
 mix with it a spoonful of biscuit powder, four yolks and two whites 
 of eggs, a pint of cream, a large spoonful of rose or orange flower 
 water, a quarter of a nutmeg, two ounces of sugar and a little ratafia ; 
 bake it in a shallow dish, turn it out and serve with sugar over. 
 
 98b. — DAMSON PUDDING. 
 
 Line a basin with paste, fill it with ripe or bottled damsons, cover 
 it with paste, boil it, and when ready to serve cut a piece out of the 
 top, put in sifted sugar. 
 
 987.— FOWL PUDDING A LA REINE. 
 
 Take the breast and fleshy parts of three or four cold roast fowls, 
 cut them into dice of an equal size and rather small, put these dice 
 into a reduction of veloute, season them well, .then turn them into a 
 dish to cool ; as soon as quite cold divide it into two equal parts 
 which make into puddings of an oval or long shape the size of the 
 dish, roll them in crumbs of bread, cover them on both sides with egg, 
 and roll once more in the crumbs of bread, see that the ends are well 
 covered with crumbs or they will break. Fry them a good colour, 
 drain them dry with a clean soft towel, serve with a thin veloutfe, or 
 green parsley fried. 
 
 988. GAME PUDDING. 
 
 Take a number of larks, thrushes, quails, or any small birds suffi- 
 cient to make a good sized pudding ; pick and truss them, fry them 
 in butter with some sweet herbs, some salt, and pepper. Make a 
 thick good paste, put in the game, close it round, tie in a cloth, put 
 it into boiling water, let it boil an hour, take it out, open the crust, 
 pour in some good cullis or espagnole, and serve hot. 
 
 989. GOOSEBERRY PUDDING. (BAKED.) 
 
 Take a pint of green gooseberries, scald them, and rub them through 
 a sieve, add half a pound of sugar, the same of butter, three Naples 
 
 S 2 
 
260 PASTKY. 
 
 biscuits, and four eggs well beaten ; mix the ingredients well together, 
 and bake for half an hour. 
 
 990. — HEDGEHOG — TO MAKE. 
 
 Blanch two pounds of sweet almonds, pound them to a paste in a 
 mortar, moisten occasionally with canary and orange flower water; 
 beat the yolks of twelve and the whites of five eggs with a pint of 
 cream and some powdered sugar, put this with the almond paste and 
 half a pound of fresh butter into a saucepan, set it over a stove 
 and keep it constantly stirring till firm enough to be moulded into 
 the shape of a hedgehog; stick it full of blanched almonds cut 
 lengthwise into slips and placed in a dish ; beat up the yolks of four 
 eggs, put them to a pint of cream, sweeten to your taste, stir them 
 over a slow fire till hot, then pour it round the hedgehog and let it 
 stand till cold, serve it. 
 
 A good calf's foot jelly may be poured round it if preferred. 
 
 991. ROYAL HARTS 
 
 Are of the first mixture, the moulds are rather deep, and the shape 
 of a hart, well butter them with clarified butter, after having stirred 
 in your flour sprinkle into it a table-spoonful of ground rice, fill your 
 moulds and bake them directly, sugar the tops. 
 
 992. — ICE PUDDINGS. 
 
 Make a good custard, boiling into it a stick of vanilla, sweeten it, 
 ■when cold take out the vanilla ; if the custard is not quite smooth 
 strain it, then add half a pint of cream, a gill of Noyeaix or Mares- 
 chino, the juice of a lemon, and a good glass of jelly if you have it, 
 or a little boiled isinglass; then put it into your pudding mould. 
 After having put it through the freezing process as for your dessert 
 ices, dish it on a napkin. 
 
 993. ANOTHER ICE PUDDING. 
 
 Make a custard as before, season this with rum, and mix currants 
 before you take it out of the freezer. 
 
 994. A DIFFERENT ICE PUDDING. 
 
 Make a custard with a stick of vanilla (if vanilla is liked), if not, 
 with peach kernels, brandy, and white wine, and all kinds of dried 
 fruits, or from syrups cut in small dice, and a few currants and dried 
 cherries ; add half a pint of cream and a little lemon juice. 
 
 995. — ICE PUDDING WITH MARMALADE. 
 
 The only difference from the last, instead of the cut fruits, put into 
 your mould, in layers, apricot jam, strawberry jam, and currant jelly, 
 at different times, but do not let it be seen on the outside of the 
 pudding. 
 
PASTRY. 261 
 
 996. — A LEMON ICE PUDDING. 
 
 Whip up half a pint of double cream, have ready half an ounce of 
 boiled isinglass, a quarter of a pint of good thick custard, a tumbler 
 of good Noyeau; proceed with the cream in adding them together as 
 you do in other whip- creams; have a high mould for it; as you put 
 it in the mould sprinkle dried cherries into it ; when full, put it in 
 your ice to freeze, let it remain till, quite washed. Garnish, your 
 dish with clear jelly and ratafia biscuits. Turn it out with lukewarm 
 water. 
 
 To prepare your ice, &c. To freeze, break your ice small, and be- 
 tween every layer of ice you put round the mould add a handful of 
 suet. Beat it down tight to the mould. 
 
 997- LEMON PUDDING. 
 
 Boil four lemons peeled thin till they are soft, rub them through a 
 hair sieve, and preserve the fine pulp ; pour some boiling milk or 
 cream, in which a stick of cinnamon has been boiled, over a pound 
 of Naples buiscuits, two ounces of fresh butter, and a little nutmeg. 
 "When cold, add to them the pulp of the lemons and eight eggs well 
 beaten; mix all together, and sweeten, and, if liked, add some 
 brandy. Make a good puff paste, edge a dish with it, put in the 
 mixture, ornament the top with strings of paste, and bake it in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 998. MARROW PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of beef-marrow finely chopped, a few currants 
 washed and picked, some slices of citron and orange peel candied, a 
 little grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of brandy, and the same of 
 syrup of cloves, and half a pound of Naples biscuits ; strain to this a 
 quart of new milk boiled with cinnamon and lemon peel ; allow the- 
 mixture to cool, and then add the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites 
 of five. Bake it in a dish with a puff-paste round it. 
 
 999. BAKED MARROW PUDDING. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of marrow, chopped fine, six sponge biscuits 
 broken up, a few currants or raisins stoned, some candied orange, 
 lemon, and citron, cut into small dice, a little nutmeg, grating of half 
 a lemon peel ; butter a pie or tart dish. Spread your cakes, marrow, 
 ternately with the peels, five eggs broken in a basin, leave out two 
 whites, beat them up, put half a pint of cream to it, and a cup of milk, 
 sweeten with pounded^sugar, according to the taste you have to make 
 it for, some, like things sweeter than others, I do for one, that is no 
 reason I should insist in going to the extreme — put a paste thin to your 
 dish. 
 
 1000. MACARONI PUDDING. 
 
 Simmer an ounce or two of pipe macaroni in a pint of milk, with 
 a bit of lemon peel and cinnamon, till soft ; put it into a dish with 
 milk, the yolks of three eggs and the white of one, some sugar, 
 
262 PASTRY. 
 
 nutmeg, a spoonful of almond water, and half a glass of raisin wine, 
 put a nice paste round the edge of the dish, and hake it. 
 
 A layer of orange marmalade or raspberry jam may be used 
 instead of the almond water or ratafia. 
 
 1001. — MILLET PUDDING. 
 
 Spread a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a dish, put 
 in six ounces of millet, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, pour over 
 it three pints of milk, and bake it. 
 
 1002.' — MUTTON PUDDING. 
 
 Cut some large slices from the upper part of an underdone leg of 
 mutton, line a basin with a good suet crust, and put in the meat; 
 season well with, pepper and salt, and a shalot, or young onions 
 finely shred. Cover up with the paste, and boil it two hours. 
 
 1003. MUFFIN PUDDING WITH DRIED CHERRIES. 
 
 Put four muffins into a pan, strain over them a pint and a half of 
 milk boiled for ten minutes, with a few coriander seeds, a bit of 
 lemon peel, and sugar to suit the taste. When cold, wash them with 
 a wooden spoon, add half a pound of dried cherries, a gill of brandy, 
 a little grated nutmeg, two ounces of sweet almonds blanched and 
 pounded very fine, and six eggs well beaten ; mix all together, and 
 boil in a basin, or bake it in a dish lined with paste. 
 
 1004. OATMEAL PUDDING. 
 
 Take a pint of the best fine oatmeal, potir a quart of boiling milk 
 over it, and let it soak all night ; the next day put it in a basin just 
 large enough, to hold it, add two eggs beaten, and a little salt, cover 
 it tight with a floured cloth, and boil it an hour and a half. It may 
 be eaten hot, with cold butter and salt ; or cold, sliced and toasted. 
 
 1005. — ORANGE PUDDING. 
 
 To half a pound of lump sugar press the juice of three Seville 
 oranges ; take half a pound of butter melted thick and the yolks of 
 ten eggs well beaten, mix all thoroughly together with four ounces 
 of blanched almonds well pounded with a little orange-flower water, 
 and the peel of one of the oranges grated. Place a thin crust in 
 the bottom of the dish. 
 
 1006. — PEAS PUDDING. 
 Wash and soak well in warm water, a pint of split peas, tie them 
 in a clean cloth, put it into a saucepan of hot -water, and boil until 
 soft, before serving beat it up to a mash with a little butter and salti 
 it is served with boiled pork or beef. 
 
 1007. A FIRST-RATE PLUM PUDDINO. 
 
 Half a pound of raisins, stoned. 
 
 Half a pound of currants well washed and dried. 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 263 
 
 Quarter'of a pound of mixed peels, cut in dice. 
 
 Half a nutmeg, grated. 
 
 Half a tea-spoonful of pounded cinnamon. 
 
 The grating of two lemons. 
 
 The juice of one. 
 
 A small particle of salt. 
 
 One pound of bread crumbs. 
 
 Half a pound of moist sugar. 
 
 Seven eggs, yolks and whites. 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of beef, or mutton suet, chopped very 
 fine. 
 
 Two glasses of brandy. 
 
 Two ditto of sherry. 
 First, break your eggs, beat them well in your basin then add your 
 spice, salt, and peels : then, the sugar, sweet plums, and currants : then, 
 the bread crumbs : then, the brandy and wine. 
 
 SAUCE FOR IT. 
 
 Break three yolks of eggs, a little sugar, and a gill of cream. Stir 
 it over the fire, till thick, then add a glass of brandy to it. Stir it all 
 the time. Butter well a three pint round plain mould, then paper the 
 sides and bottom quite smooth. Butter the paper likewise,'steam it 
 for three or four hours, put paper on the top : when done turn your 
 mould over on the dish, then lift it off gently : should the paper 
 adhere to the pudding, take^it clean off; pour the white pudding sauce 
 over it. 
 
 1008. PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Stone half a pound of raisins, wash clean and pick half a pound of 
 currants, chop half a pound of beef or mutton suet very fine, have 
 some bread crumbs made fine through a wire sieve, cut fine a little 
 candied orange, lemon, and citron, grate a little nutmeg, a few grains 
 of powdered cinamon, break eight eggs (according to the size pudding 
 required), beat them up in a large basin, then add your spice and a 
 quarter of a pound of fine sugar, then your candies, currants, and 
 raisins, sweeten then a cup of cream or milk, add the grating of one 
 lemon, mix in bread crumbs until it is quite stiff and well mixed, 
 add a glass of brandy and two of sherry, let it stand for some hours ; 
 butter a plain round mould if you have it, sprinkle it all over with 
 fried bread crumbs. It will take three hours to steam. Pour sauce 
 over it — any that may be approved. You will find it in another place 
 in the book. 
 
 1009. THE OLD ENGLISH CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 To make what is termed a pound pudding, take of raisins well- 
 stoned, currants thoroughly washed, one pound each; chop a pound 
 of suet very finely and mix with them, add a quarter of a pound of 
 flour, or bread very finely crumbled, three ounces of sugar, one ounce 
 and a half of grated lemon peel, a blade of mace, half a small nut- 
 meg, one tea-spoonful of ginger, half a dozen eggs well beaten, work 
 
264 PASTRY. 
 
 it well together, put it into a cloth, tie it firmly — allowing room to 
 swell — and boil, not less than five hours. It should not be suffered 
 to stop boiling. 
 
 1010. — PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 Take the crumb of a penny loaf, cut it into slices and soak them 
 in boiling milk till quite soft, then beat the bread up with half of a 
 pound of clarified sugar, the same quantity of currants, the same of 
 raisins stoned, five eggs well beaten, candid orange, lemon, and citron, 
 a few bitter almonds pounded, and sugar to the taste; mix all 
 thoroughly, add a cup of brandy, place it into a dish and bake it, 
 when done turn it out and sprinkle powdered sugar over. 
 
 The above ingredients make an excellent pudding boiled in a well 
 floured cloth or mould. As a plum pudding requires to be well 
 done, be careful to boil it sufficiently. 
 
 1011. — POTATO PUDDING. 
 
 Take two pounds of potatoes, wash and boil them ; when cold add 
 a pint of new milk, three eggs well beaten, two ounces of moist sugar, 
 and a little nutmeg. Bake it. 
 
 1012. PUDDING DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 Mix gradually two table-spoonfuls of flour with a pint of milk, boil 
 it till thick, and when cold add three ounces of butter beaten to a 
 cream, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, the rind of a lemon grated, 
 the yolks of five and whites of three eggs, and a little salt ; mix all 
 well together, put it a dish lined round with paste, and bake it in a 
 quick oven. This pudding is very nice cold. 
 
 1013. PUDDINGS IN HASTE. 
 
 To grated bread add suet shred, a few currants, the yolks of four 
 eggs and the whites of two, some grated lemon peel, and ginger ; 
 mix and form it into balls about the size and shape of an egg with a 
 little flour. Put them into boiling water, and boil them for twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 1014. PUDDING — QUAKING. 
 
 Take a quart of cream, scald it, and when nearly cold, put to it 
 four eggs well beaten, a spoonful and a half of flour, some nutmeg 
 and sugar ; tie it tight in a buttered cloth, boil it an hour, and turn it 
 out carefully. Serve with melted butter, a little wine and sugar. 
 
 1015. QUINCE PUDDING. 
 
 Take as many ripe quinces as will yield a pound of pulp ; to this 
 add half a pound of powdered sugar, cinnamon, and ginger (two 
 drams of each) pounded; mix them well, and add them to the 
 yolks of eight eggs beaten in a pint of cream, stir all together, and 
 boil it in a floured cloth. 
 
PASTRY. 265 
 
 1016. BICE PUDDING, BOILED. 
 
 Take some rice, pick and wash it well, tie it in a cloth, leaving 
 plenty of room for it to swell. Boil it in plenty of water for an hour 
 or two. Serve it with butter and sugar, or milk. 
 
 1017. — RICE PUDDING WITH CURRANTS. 
 
 Boil for half an hour five ounces of whole rice in a cloth, with 
 room to swell ; then take it up, add five ounces of currants, three 
 table-spoonfuls of suet shred fine, and two eggs well beaten, tie it up 
 again, and boil it an hour and a half. 
 
 1018. GROUND BICE PUDDING. 
 
 In a pint of new milk boil two dessert-spoonfuls of ground rice, 
 adding a small piece of lemon peel and a little cinnamon. Keep it 
 stirring while boiling, and let it boil ten minutes, then let it cool ; 
 when cold add sugar to taste, a couple of well-beaten eggs, and some 
 nutmeg. Line your dish with a puff paste, pour in your rice, and 
 bake a light brown. 
 
 1019. RICE. PUDDING WITH FRUIT. 
 
 Swell some rice in a little milk over the fire, then mix it with 
 either currants or gooseberries scalded, or apples pared and quartered, 
 raisins, or black currants ; add an egg to the rice to bind it. Boil it 
 well, and serve with sugar. 
 
 1020. SAGO PUDDING. 
 
 Take half a pound of sago, wash it in several waters (warm), then 
 boil it with a pint of milk and a little cinnamon, stirring it often till 
 it becomes thick; pour it into a pan, and beat it up with half a pound 
 of fresh butter ; add the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four, 
 beaten separately, a little flour, half a glass of white wine, and sugar 
 to liking ; mix all well, and boil it. Serve with sweet sauce. 
 
 1021. — SIPPET PUDDING. 
 
 Cut a small loaf of fancy bread into very thin slices, put a layer of 
 them at the bottom of a dish, then a layer of marrow — or beef suet, 
 if the former is not easily obtained fresh — a layer of currants, and then 
 a layer, of bread, and continue in this order until you have filled the 
 dish. Beat up to a fine froth four eggs, mix them with a quart of 
 cream, a nutmeg, and four ounces of sugar, and pour it over ; put it 
 into an oven with a very steady heat — not too fierce — and bake thirty 
 minutes. 
 
 1022. — SUET PUDDING. 
 
 Chop half a pound of beef suet extremely fine, add the same 
 quantity of flour, two eggs well beaten, a small quantity ot pounded 
 
266 PASTEY. 
 
 and sifted sugar, and a little salt; mix well together with milk to a 
 tolerable consistence, and either bake or boil it. 
 
 1023. — SUET PUDDING. 
 
 To a pound and a quarter of flour add a pound of shred suet, with 
 two eggs beaten separately, a little salt, and a little ground ginger, 
 and just enough milk to make it; boil it four hours. It is very nice 
 the next day cut in slices and broiled. 
 
 1024. SWEETMEAT PUDDING. 
 
 Take one ounce each of orange and lemon peel, and citron, slice 
 them very thin ; line a dish with puff paste, lay the peel at the 
 bottom, mix the yolks of seven eggs with the whites of two eggs, 
 adding five ounces of sugar, pour it over the sweetmeats, put it into 
 an oven well heated and bake thirty-five minutes. 
 
 1025. TAPIOCA PUDDING. 
 
 Soak four table-spoonfuls of tapioca in a quart of milk all night, 
 then add a spoonful of brandy, some lemon peel, and a little spice; 
 boil them gently, add four eggs, the whites well beaten, and a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar ; bake it. 
 
 1026. TREACLE PUDDING. 
 
 To a pound of stoned raisins add three quarters of a pound of 
 shred suet, a pound of flour, a pint of milk, a table-spoonful of 
 treacle, grated ginger and pounded spice ; stir all up well, and boil it 
 four hours in a floured cloth. 
 
 1027. — VERMICELLI PUDDING. 
 
 r Take four ounces of vermicelli boil it soft in a pint of new milk 
 with a stick or two of cinnamon ; add half a pint of thick cream, a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, the same quantity of sugar, and the 
 yolks of four eggs well beaten ; put in a dish and bake it. 
 
 1028. — VERMICELLI. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of vermicelli in milk, with a piece of 
 cinnamon, four cloves, a bay leaf, sweeten with lump sugar, put a piece 
 of butter into it ; break four eggs in a basin, a little grated nutmeg, and 
 a gill of cream ; add it to your vermicelli. If nearly cold, butter your 
 dish well, as for a bread and butter pudding ; bake or stew this pud- 
 ding ; if stewed, season with vanilla or orange flowers. 
 
 1029. YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 
 
 Mix together a spoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and one egg well 
 beaten, add a spoonful of salt and a little ginger grated ; put this 
 
PASTRY. 267 
 
 mixture in a square pan buttered, and when browned by baking 
 under the meat turn the other side upwards to be browned also ; 
 serve it cut in pieces, and arranged upon a dish. 
 
 If you require a richer pudding increase the number of eggs. 
 
 1030. APPLE DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Pare a few good sized baking apples, and roll out some paste, 
 divide it into as many pieces as you have apples, cut two rounds 
 from each, and put an apple under each piece, and put the other over, 
 join the edges, tie them in cloths, and boil them. 
 
 1031. APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED. 
 
 Make them as directed above, but instead of tying them in cloths 
 place them in a buttered dish, and bake them. 
 
 1032.— CURRANT JELLY DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Roll out rather thin some good rich paste, spread some currant 
 jelly over it, roll it up, put it in a cloth, tie it at each end, boil it an 
 hour, and then serve. 
 
 1033. — DAMSON DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Line a basin with a good hot paste crust, rolled rather thin, fill it 
 with damsons, cover it and boil it in a cloth for an hour ; when done 
 pour melted butter over it, grate sugar round the edge of the dish, 
 and serve. 
 
 1034. — DUMPLINGS HARD. 
 
 Make a paste of flour, small beer, or water, and a little salt, roll 
 them into small balls, and put them in the pot w*hen the water boils; 
 in half an hour they will be done. They are very good boiled with 
 beef. Serve either with cold or melted butter. 
 
 1035. — DUMPLINGS — NORFOLK. 
 
 Make a batter with flour, a pint of milk, two eggs, and a little salt, 
 drop it in small portions in a pot of boiling water, boil them three 
 minutes, and then put them into a sieve or cullender to drain. 
 
 1036. DUMPLING PASTE. 
 
 Make a paste with flour, milk, salt, and yeast ; let it Stand in a 
 warm place to ferment ; cut into sizes according to taste ; boil about 
 twenty minutes; let them cool; cut each in two; soak them in milk, 
 sugar, and lemon peel an hour ; drain and flour them for frying, or 
 dip them in oil or melted butter to broil. Baste with the same they 
 were dipped in. 
 
 1037- DUMPLING — SCOTCH. 
 
 In the centre of a paste made of oatmeal and water put a had- 
 dock's liver, well seasoned with pepper and salt. Boil it in a cloth. 
 
268 
 
 PASTEY. 
 
 1038. — SUET DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Make the paste the same as for suet pudding, wet your cloth, dust 
 flour over it, put in the paste the size intended, tie up, and boil an 
 hour. 
 
 1039. — RASPBERRY DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Roll out some good puff-paste, spread raspberry jam oyer it, roll it 
 up, and boil it a little more than an hour ; cut it into slices, pour 
 melted butter into the dish, and serve. 
 
 1040. YEAST DUMPLINGS. 
 
 Take some yeast and make a very light dough, the same as for 
 bread, using milk however instead of water, add salt, put it by the 
 fire covered in a pan for half an hour or more to rise, after this is 
 done roll up the dough into small balls and boil them for ten 
 minutes, then take them out and serve directly with wine sauce over 
 them. To know when they are done stick a fork into one, and if it 
 comes out clean they will do. 
 
 A good method of eating them is by dividing them from the top 
 with two forks, as they get heavy by their own steam, and eat them 
 directly with meat, or sugar and butter, or salt. 
 
 1041 . TARTLETS. 
 
 Cut your paste after rolling it thin with a fluted cutter as large as 
 your tartlet pan may be round, place each piece even into the pan, 
 press it down with your finger, then put into each either a piece of 
 square crust of bread cut into dice in the middle of each, or a very 
 little piece of jam, you will have to add more after they are baked, 
 sift some fine sugar over them, bake them a light colour. 
 
 1042. — APPLE TART. 
 
 Take some good baking apples, pare, core, and cut them into small 
 pieces; place them in a dish lined with puff paste, strew over pounded 
 sugar, cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, cloves, and lemon peel chopped small, 
 then add a layer of apples, then spice, and so on till the dish is full; 
 pour a glass and a half of white wine over the whole, cover with 
 puff paste, and bake it. When done raise the crust, stir in two ounces 
 of fresh butter, and two eggs well beaten, replace the crust, and 
 Serve either hot or cold. 
 
 1043. APRICOT TART. 
 
 Take some apricots, cut them in two and break the stones, put 
 them into paste with sugar, a small quantity of preserved lemon, and 
 a few of the kernels, close it, sprinkle sugar over, and glaze it. If 
 the apricots are not ripe, boil them a short time in water, and drain 
 them well. 
 
PASTRY. 269 
 
 1044. — almonds (green) tvrts. 
 
 Pull almonds from the tree before they shell ; scrape off the down 
 ■with a knife, and put them into a pan with cold water as fast as they 
 are done, then put them into a skillet with more spring-water over a 
 very slow fire till they simmer, change the water twice, and let them 
 lie in the last till tender ; put them between two dry cloths, and press 
 them dry ; make a syrup with double refined sugar, and put them to 
 simmer a little, repeat this the next day, put them in a close jar and 
 cover them close, as they turn black if exposed to the air, the yellower 
 they are when in the water the greener they will be afterwards ; 
 put them into a sugar crust, lay the lid close, and cover them with 
 syrup, and bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 1045. APRICOT SWEET-MEAT FOR TARTS. 
 
 Take a pound of ripe apricots, remove the stones, break them and 
 blanch the kernels, add one pound and a half of green gages and one 
 pound and a qurter of lump sugar; simmer it until the fruit becomes 
 a jam. It must not boil, and must be kept well skimmed ; clarified 
 sugar will be found the best to use for this preserve. 
 
 1046. BEAN TARTS. 
 
 Boil some green beans and blanch them. Put into a pufF-paste 
 (laid in patty pans), a layer of these, and a layer of different sweet- 
 meats, sprinkling a little loaf-sugar between each layer, then add 
 some juice of lemon, some marrow seasoned with salt, cloves, mace, 
 nutmeg, and candied lemon or orange peel, cover the patties, make a 
 small hole at top, and pour in a little lemon juice. When baked, 
 put in some white wine and a bit of butter. 
 
 1047- CHOCOLATE TART. 
 
 Mix some chocolate, a little flour, cream, and sugar, and three eggs, 
 boil it for half an hour, stirring continually to prevent its catching at 
 bottom, put it into the paste with whites of eggs beaten and frothed 
 upon it ; glaze it with sugar. 
 
 1048. — CHERBY TAET. 
 
 Line the sides of a dish with a good crust, strew in sugar, fill it 
 with picked cherries, and put sugar at the top ; red currants may be 
 added if liked, cover with crust, and bake. 
 
 . 1049. — CURRANT TART. 
 
 Line a dish with puff-paste, strew powdered sugar over the bottom 
 of it, then put in alternate layers of currants carefully picked, and 
 sugar, till the dish is full then cover and bake it. 
 
 The addition of raspberries or mulberries to currant tart is a great 
 improvement. 
 
270 PASTRY. 
 
 1050. DAMSON TABT. 
 
 Line a dish with a good crust, put in the fruit, and proceed the 
 same as for any other fruit pie. 
 
 1051. — GRAPE TABT. 
 
 Take the youngest grapes hefore stones are formed, pick and 
 scald them the same as currants, or gooseberries, and finish the same 
 as other tarts. More sugar will he required than usual, on account 
 of the extreme tartness of the fruit. 
 
 1052. — GOOSEBERRY (GREEN) TART. 
 
 Use either whole gooseberries, or make a marmalade of them with 
 a good syrup, the last method is perhaps the best, as you can tell easily 
 how sweet they are and ought to be; if made of marmalade the 
 seeds ought to be taken out. 
 
 1053. ORANGE TARTS. 
 
 Take some oranges, pare them very thin, soak them in water for 
 two or three days, changing the water often, then boil them till they 
 become soft and lose their bitterness ; when cold cut a thick slice off 
 the top and bottom, and the rest the thickness of a crown piece ; 
 line the tartlet-pans with puff paste, and fill them with layers of 
 sugar and orange alternately. 
 
 1054. FEAB TART. 
 
 Peel some pears carefully, cut them into quarters and remove the 
 cores ; if large and green boil them soft in a little water, simmering 
 them in some rich syrup, and place them with the syrup in a dish 
 lined with puff paste, cover and bake it. 
 
 1055. — QUINCE TART. 
 
 Take a few preserved quinces, put an equal weight of syrup, made 
 with sugar and water and preserve, into a preserving-pan; boij, skim, 
 and then in the fruit ; when somewhat clear, place the quinces in a 
 tart-dish with puff-paste as usual. Cover, bake it, and when done 
 lift the top gently, put in the syrup, ice it, and serve. 
 
 1056. — RASPBERRY TABT. 
 
 Line a dish with nice puff-paste, put in fruit and sugar, lay bars 
 across, and bake. 
 
 1057.— -RASPBERRY TABT WITH CREAM. 
 
 Put some raspberries in a patty-pan lined with thin puff-paste, 
 strew in some finely sifted sugar, cover with puff-paste, and bake it ; 
 when done, take off the top and pour in half a pint of , cream, pre- 
 
PASTEY. 271 
 
 viously mixed with the yolks of two or three eggs, and sweetened 
 with a little sugar ; then return the tart to the oven for five or six 
 minutes. 
 
 1058. — RHUBARB TAUT. 
 
 Take some stalks of a good size, remove the thin skin, and cut 
 them in pieces four or five inches long, place them in a dish, and 
 pour over a thin syrup of sugar and water, cover with another dish, 
 and simmer slowly for an hour upon a hot hearth, or do them in a 
 block-tin saucepan. Allow it to cool, and then make it into a tart ; 
 ■when tender, the baking the crust will be sufficient. A tart may be 
 made by cutting the stalks into pieces the size of gooseberries, and 
 making it the same way as gooseberry tart. 
 
 1059. — STRAWBERRY TART. 
 
 Put into a basin two quarts of the best scarlet strawberries picked, 
 add half a pint of cold clarified sugar, the same quantity of Madeira, 
 with the juice of two lemons, mix all well without "breaking the 
 strawberries, and put them into a puff paste previously baked; keep 
 them very cool. 
 
 1060. TARTLETS. 
 
 Line several tartlet "pans with a thin short paste, fill them with 
 any preserve or sweetmeat you like, then with paste shred very fine 
 (moulds made for this purpose do them much neater and more 
 quickly) cross them; egg them, place them in a baking tin and bake 
 them in a quick oven. 
 
 1061. YELLOW ALMOND SWEETMEATS. 
 
 Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, wash them in cold water, and 
 when quite dry pound them with a sufficient quantity of yolks of 
 eggs into a fine but rather stiff paste; add to them a pound of 
 powdered sugar, and the rinds of two lemons grated ; knead the paste 
 well with your hands, first sprinkling the table with sugar. Form 
 the paste into what figures you please, such as fleur-de-lis, trefoil, 
 &c, &c, each being about the size and weight of a macaroon. Place 
 them on white paper and on an iron plate, fry them in a moderately 
 hot stove. If they are of a deep yellow they are sufficiently done. 
 These sweetmeats may be still further ornamented in the following 
 manner: — Boil some sugar in orange flower water, to the degree 
 called ' grande plume,' and as soon as the sweetmeats are taken from 
 the stove or oven wash them over with a light brush, dipped in the 
 syrup, this will give them a delicious perfume, and they may then be 
 called a la glace; when cold take them from the paper, and put them 
 into glasses for the table. 
 
 1062 10 CUT OUT PATTY CASES, ETC. 
 
 Boll your paste out about a quarter of an inch, but first try a 
 
27.2 PASTET. 
 
 very thin bit in your oven, and you will find out the heat of the oven 
 and the lightness of your paste, and then cut the thickness ac- 
 cordingly. Have a plain or a fluted cutter, turn each piece, of paste 
 upon your papered baking sheet, take a smaller cutter and pass in the 
 middle of the top of each, then egg each top with a paste brush ; 
 nine will make a gooddish. Roll out a piece of the paste, and with a 
 cutter sufficiently large to cover the opening on the top, cut out the 
 same number for the tops, egg them and bake them separately; after 
 your paste is baked and before it is cold, with a small knife carefully 
 put them in the screen until required. 
 
 1063. — to neutralize the acid in fruit pies and puddings. 
 A large quantity of the free acid which exists in rhubarb, goose- 
 berries, currants, and other fruits, may be judiciously corrected by 
 the use of a small quantity of carbonate of soda without the least 
 affecting their flavour, so long as too much soda is not added. To 
 an ordinary sized pie or pudding as much soda may be added as, 
 piled up, will cover a shilling, or even twice such a quantity if the 
 fruit is very sour. If this little hint is attended to, many a stomach 
 ache will be prevented, and a vast quantity of sugar saved, because, 
 when the acid is neutralized by the soda, it will not require so 
 much sugar to render the tart sweet. 
 
 1064. — PASTY. 
 
 This pie is made from the shoulder or breast, which must first be 
 stewed as in former pies ; well season it, and put plenty of essence of 
 the gravy. 
 
 |1065. A PASTE FOR STEWED BEEF OR SOUPS. 
 
 Break three eggs, a little salt, and dry them up with flour, 
 mix the paste well, roll it out thin about an inch in length ; have 
 ready some boiling water, put it in for ten minutes, add a little salt 
 in the water, frequently moving it about, keeping it from sticking 
 together. 
 
 1066. — lamb pasty. 
 
 Bone, and cut into four pieces the lamb you intend to use, at the 
 bottom of the pasty lay beef suet, season with pepper, salt, chopped 
 thyme, nutmeg, cloves, and mace, lay it upon the suet, making a 
 high border about it, turn over the sheet of paste, close up, and bake; 
 when it is baked put in vinegar, the yolks of four eggs well beaten, 
 and some good gravy. 
 
 J067- — mutton pasty, to resemble one made of venison. 
 
 Hang for four or five days (weather permitting), a fat loin of mut- 
 ton, then bone it, beat it well with a rolling-pin, rub the meat with 
 sugar — four ounces to ten pounds of meat — pour over it half a gill of 
 vinegar, and the same quantity of port wine; let it lie five days, then 
 
PASTRY. 273 
 
 wash it, dry it thoroughly, season highly with allspice, nutmeg, and 
 salt. Put the meat into the d\sh in which, it is to he baked ; add one 
 pound of butter, spread over the meat (if ten pounds) ; lay a crust 
 round the edge of the dish, and cover with a thick crust, and bake in 
 a slow oven. A gravy may be made for the pasty by baking the 
 bones in a pan to which has been added a little pepper, and salt, and 
 a glass of port wine. This should be added when the pasty is 
 drawn. 
 
 1068. FISH PATTIES. 
 
 Boil for a little while an eel, a carp, and a tench, half stew six 
 oysters, pick the flesh from the bones of the fish, beat it in a mortar 
 with the smelts of the fish, some mace, and a glass of sherry, work 
 them well together ; make some rich paste, line the tins, put in the 
 forcemeat, add one oyster, a bit of butter, then cover with paste and 
 bake. 
 
 1069.' — OYSTER PATTIES. 
 
 Line some small patty pans with a fine puff paste, put a piece of 
 bread into each, cover with paste and bake them. While they are 
 baking take some oysters, beard them, and cut the remainder up into 
 small pieces, place them in a tosser with a very small portion of grated 
 nutmeg, a very little white pepper and salt, a morsel of lemon peel 
 cut as small as possible, a little cream and a little of the oyster liquor; 
 simmer it a few minutes, then remove the bread from the patties and 
 put in the mixture. 
 
 1070. — MEAT PATTIES. 
 
 The patty-pans should not be too large ; make a puff paste, put a- 
 layer at the bottom of the tins, put in forcemeat, and cover with 
 puff paste, bake them a light brown, turn them out. If for a small 
 dinner five patties, or seven fox a large dinner will suffice for. a side 
 dish. 
 
 1071. — MARROW PATTIES. 
 
 Shred a few apples with some marrow, add a little sugar, make- 
 them up in puff paste, fry them in clarified butter, and when done 
 sprinkle some sugar over them and serve. 
 
 IO72. MARROW PATTIES. 
 
 Make a paste with four ounces of sweet almonds blanched, 
 moistening them with orange flower water ; mix this paste with a 
 handful of flour, a drop of warm water and the yolks of three eggs; 
 then line several shallow moulds with it, dorez and bake them in a 
 slow oven. "When done put into each of them a little cream about 
 the thickness of a crown piece, made with beef marrow, lemon peel, 
 and cream, cover ft with a spoonful of white of egg whipped to 
 a snow, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve them very hot. 
 
 T 
 
274 PASIKT. 
 
 1073. POTTS OF ANY KIND. 
 
 Cut into square pieces the thickness of a patty case, put in the 
 middle a small piece of jam, double one side over the other pressing 
 it with your two thumbs, keeping the middle of a round lump ; egg 
 the tops, bake them and glaze them. 
 
 1074. — APRICOT PUFFS. 
 
 Take some puff paste, roll it to about fifteen inches long, the 
 eighth of an inch in thickness, and six inches wide, then place a 
 small portion of apricot marmalade on the paste at equal distances, 
 and two inches from the edge ; moisten round each bit of marmalade, 
 and turn the two inches of paste over, press it down round the 
 preserve so as to join the crusts, and then cut them out into semi- 
 circular turnovers ; lay them on a tin, dorez and bake them in a hot 
 oven ; when almost done sprinkle them with sugar, and glaze them. 
 
 1075. GATBAU NEAPOLITAN. 
 
 Pound cakes in alternate layers with preserves, as jams of different 
 sorts, between each layer. The ornaments are also made of pound 
 cake. The whole is glazed with white of egg, and the white orna- 
 ment is piped. 
 
 1076. GATEAU DAUPHIN. 
 
 Roll out a paste thin, sufficient to cover your baking sheet, then spread 
 the paste all over with jam or apples prepared, roll out another paste 
 and cover all over the jam, sometimes egg with whites of egg, and 
 cover it with chopped almonds and sifted sugar, then with your knife 
 cut it through all along the width of two inches, turn the baking 
 sheet and cut it through the length of three inches, then bake them 
 a nice light brown; when baked and nearly cold, take them from 
 the baking sheet and trim the sides and ends quite smooth, dish them 
 on a napkin as cutlets standing upon the ends. 
 
 1077- — puits d' amour. 
 1 Roll your second paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut with a 
 fluted cutter the size of a crown piece about eighteen pieces, place 
 them upon a papered baking sheet,»press a round mark with a much 
 smaller plain cutter, egg them lightly, bake, and glaze them when 
 done; while warm open the top with a small knife, and fill the paste 
 with different jams', dish them high upon a napkin. 
 
PASTRY. 275 
 
 1078. BICE, GATEAU OF. 
 
 Boil a quart of cream and add to it half a pound of powdered sugar, 
 and three quarters of a pound of rice ; when the latter is quite soft 
 dissolve in it a quarter of a pound of butter, and then put in the 
 grated rind of a lemon, let it cool. When quite cold stir in four yolks 
 and four whole eggs, more if the rice be very thick ; butter a mould 
 lightly, put the rice into it, place the mould in hot ashes so that it 
 may be completely enveloped in and covered with them ; in half an 
 hour the gateau will be done enough, then turn it out and serve. If 
 you wish you can make a souffle by whipping the whites of six eggs 
 like other souffles ; in this case it should be served in a silver dish. 
 In putting the preparation into the mould be careful not to fill it, as 
 the rice would swell and run over. 
 
 1079. A MIXED JAM FOR TARTS OB TARTLETS. 
 
 Take two pounds of apricots when ripe, take out the kernels and 
 blanch them, then add them to the fruit ; add to this two pounds of 
 greengage plums or bullaces,'and two or three pounds of lump sugar ; 
 then gently boil all until it is a clear jelly. Put it in small pots. 
 
 1080. — ALMOND WAFERS. 
 
 Take a pound of sweet almonds, blanch and pound them ; add a 
 pound of powdered sugar, a pinch of orange flowers pralinee, put 
 them into a basin and moisten them with a sufficient quantity of 
 whites of eggs to enable you to spread the paste on wafer paper with 
 the blade of a knife, the wafer paper must be rubbed with virgin 
 wax and sweet oil ; lay the preparation on as thin as possible, chop 
 some sweet almonds very small, mix them with sugar, and strew them 
 over the wafers, and put them into a hot oven; when about half 
 baked take them out and cut them in squares; replace them a minute 
 in the oven, take them out again, and press them on a stick to give 
 them the proper form ; as soon as they are cold put them on a sieve. 
 Just before they are served they should be slightly warmed. 
 
 1081. — CURD PUFFS. 
 To the curd of two quarts of new milk well drained, add the yolks 
 of seven eggs and the whites of two, sugar, rose-water, nutmeg, and 
 bread crumbs ; make it into a paste, cut it into any shape you like, 
 fry them in boiling lard, and serve them with a sauce made with 
 butter, sugar, and white wine. 
 
 1082. — CHEESE PUFFS. 
 
 Take half , a pint of cheese curd strained very fine, beat it in a 
 mortar with three eggs, leaving out two whites, a spoonful and a half 
 of flour, a spoonful of orange flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, 
 and sugar to make it rather sweet ; make the paste into very small 
 round cakes and bake them on a tin plate in a hot oven for fifteen 
 minutes ; serve with pudding sauce. 
 
 T 2 
 
276 PASTRY. 
 
 1083. A DISH OP FKB5TCH PASTRY. 
 
 The pastry is fixed by white of egg. A veil is formed over the 
 whole by white of egg and white sugar boiled briskly, stirred when 
 it has boiled, and poured over while in a froth. 
 
 1084. — CROQUETS 
 
 Axfi prepared in the same way as No. 767, out not egged and bread 
 crumbed, but formed as puffs in a paste, but instead^of jams you will 
 put a piece of this preparation, you must egg the edge before you lap 
 them together, egg the tops of them, and sprinkle some fine broken 
 vermacelli over them, then fry them the same as the rissoles, dished 
 on a napkin and fried parsley. 
 
 1085. RICE, CROQUETTES OF. 
 
 "Wash and scald a quarter of a pound of rice, put it into a sauce- 
 pan with the rind of a lemon shred fine, a quarter of a pound of 
 powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, a little crisped orange flower, an 
 xmnce of butter, and half a pint of milk ; set these on the fire, and 
 when the rice is quite soft add the yolks of four eggs, stir them in 
 over the fire, but do not let them boil ; pour the preparation on a 
 large tin or slab, spread it equally, let it cool, and then divide it into 
 small parts, roll these into balls, dip them into an omelet, roll them 
 in bread crumbs, and fry them in a very hot pan ; as soon as the 
 croquettes are of a nice colour drain them, sprinkle them with 
 powdered sugar, and serve them. 
 
 1086. TO MAKE MERINGUES. 
 
 Lay four eggs on ice for an hour, weigh the weight of the eggs in 
 fine sifted sugar, then whip up the whites of those four eggs to a 
 very stiff point, when done mix in gently the sugar; have ready a 
 board an inch and a half thick, covered with white paper, sugar the 
 paper, then with a silver spoon form the meringues the form of an egg, 
 but do not let them touch each other, sift sugar well over them; dry 
 them in your. hot closet and when qiyte hard take them off the paper 
 and scoop, out the soft, and turn them over upon another paper, dry" 
 them again in the hot closet, fill them with jam or cream when you 
 want them ; dish upon a napkin or cut paper. 
 
 What you scoop out will do to sweeten jelly, or glaze tarts. 
 
PASTRY. 2V, 
 
 1087- MERINGUES. 
 
 Whisk the whites of nine eggs to a solid froth, then add the rind 
 of six lemons grated very fine, and a spoonful of sifted sugar, after 
 which lay a sheet of wet "paper on a tin and with a spoon drop the 
 mixture in little lumps 'separately upon it, sift sugar over and put 
 them to bake in a moderately heated oven, taking care that they are 
 done of a nice colour, then put raspberry, apricot, or any other kind of 
 jam between two of these bottoms, add them together and lay them 
 in a warm place or before the fire to dry. 
 
 1088. — MERINGUES. 
 
 Take the whites of twelve eggs, six ounces of the best lump sugar 
 pounded and sifted, and half a pound of pistachios, blanch and beat 
 the latter in a mortar, with a little white of egg to a fine paste, whisk 
 the whites of eggs to a snow, then add the sugar and pistachio paste, 
 mix them well, but very lightly, and when they are thoroughly 
 incorporated put some sheets of paper on tin plates, lay your pre- 
 paration on the paper with a spoon, lay the meringues at least an 
 inch apart, sprinkle sifted sugar over them and put them ' into a 
 moderate oven or stove, when done detach them gently from the 
 paper with a knife, and place them on a sieve in a dry place, before 
 they are sent to table fill each with a little whipped cream, to which 
 add a small quantity of orange-flower, rose, or vanilla water. 
 
 1089. APPLE MERINGUES. 
 
 Meringues, the apple in centre. 
 
 1090. — CASSEROLE OP RICE. 
 
 Use a well mould the size you may require the dish for, after 
 your rice is prepared, as in another place you will see; while it is 
 warm wet your mould with milk, press in the rice very tight, then 
 turn it out on the dish it is to go to table on, cover it over, and keep 
 it hot until wanted, the well will be filled as in receipt 1185, pouring 
 sauce round the casserole on the dish, garnish the top with plovers' 
 eggs, and whole truffles. 
 
 1091.— APPLES IN RICE. 
 
 Take a few good apples, pare*, core, and cut them into quarters, 
 boil some rice in a cloth until it is soft, then put in the apples, tie up 
 very loose, and boil gently till sufficiently done. 
 
278 PANCAKES AOT> FEITTERS. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 
 
 1 092. PANCAKES. 
 
 Pour a good batter made of eggs, milk, and flour, in the usual way 
 into a. pan, so that it lies very thin, fry the pancakes with hot lard, 
 and when one side is done turn it by tossing it up lightly, serve with 
 sugar and lemon, or Seville orange juice. 
 
 1093. — CREAM PANCAKES. 
 
 To a pint of cream add the yolks of two eggs, two ounces of sugar, 
 and a little beaten cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg ; mix the whole 
 well, and then fry them very carefully. 
 
 1094. PANCAKES A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 Into a stewpan put four ounces of butter, a table-spoonful of 
 ratafia pounded, the rind of a lemon cut thin, two ounces of pounded 
 ■white sugar, mix in separately three eggs, then add one at a time 
 the yolks of three more, mix well, add a little milk, half a pint of 
 cream, and a little Orange flower water, beat it well up to the 
 thickness of a good cream, put into your pan some clarified butter, 
 and when melted pour it away and put in your batter for the 
 pancakes, they must be made very thin; when you have finished 
 frying the pancakes leave in the bottom of your stewpan one table- 
 spoonful of the batter, add to it a little orange flower water, some 
 sugar, a small quantity of pounded ratafia, and the yolk of an egg; 
 aaix this up with some cream, put it into a boat and serve as a sauce. 
 
 1095. — pancakes A l'italienne 
 Are made in the same manner as the above, excepting that when 
 fried they must be laid open on a clean dresser, an Italienne cream 
 spread over them, rolled up and laid side by side in a dish with the 
 brown side outwards. 
 
 1096.— RICE pancakes. 
 To half a pound of rice put two thirds of a pint of water, boil it to 
 
PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 279 
 
 a jelly; when cold, add to it eight eggs, a, pint of cream, a little salt 
 and nutmeg, and half a pound of butter melted ; mix well, adding 
 the butter last,, and working it only so much as will make the 
 batter sufficiently thick. Fry them in lard, but employ as little as it 
 is possible to fry them with. 
 
 1 097- — FRITTERS 
 
 Are made of hatter the same as pancakes. Drop a small quantity 
 into the pan, have ready apples pared, sliced, and cored, lay them in 
 the batter and fry them ; they may also be made with sliced lemon 
 or currants, the latter is particularly palatable. They should be sent 
 to table upon a folded napkin in the dish ; any sweetmeat or ripe 
 fruit will make fritters. 
 
 1098. FRITTERS, APRICOT. 
 
 Twelve apricots preserved in brandy, drain, and cut them in half; 
 wrap them in wafers moistened and cut round ; dip them in batter, 
 as in receipt 1101, and fry. Sprinkle with sugar, and serve. 
 
 1099. APPLE FRITTERS. 
 
 Take two or three large russeting apples, pare them thin, cut them 
 half an inch thick, lay them on a pie dish, pour brandy over 
 them, let them lie two hours ; make a thick batter, using two eggs, 
 have clean lard, and make it quite hot ; fry two at a time, a nice 
 light brown, put them on the back of a sieve on paper, sift pounded 
 sugar over them, glaze them with a shovel or salamander ; dish on a 
 napkin. 
 
 After they are cut in slices take out the core with a small round 
 cutter. 
 
 1100. FRITTERS, AU BLANC. 
 
 Mix a handful of rice-flour with milk, set on the fire, stir con- 
 stantly, adding a little cream, sugar, lemon-peel, and orange-flowers ; 
 when thickened remove it from the fire ; when cold roll it in balls 
 the size of a walnut, dip them in batter, and fry them. 
 
 1101. FRITTERS A l'aNGLO-FRANCAISE. 
 
 Make a batter as follows : — Put into a saucepan one glass and a 
 half of water, two ounces of fresh butter, and a little salt, let it boil, 
 then stir in enough flour to make it a firm batter, keep stirring for. three 
 minutes, then turn it into another vessel. Make previously a marrow 
 pudding, while it is cooling prepare your batter, cut the pudding into 
 thin slices, divide again into pieces about two inches long and three 
 quarters of an inch wide, dip them into the batter and fry them, when 
 done drain them, glaze with fine sugar, and serve them as hot as you 
 can. 
 
 1102. — CURRANT FRITTERS, A LA DAUPHINE. 
 
 Having picked and washed six ounces of dried currants, boil them 
 gently for a minute or two in two ounces of clarified sugar ; when 
 
280- PANCAKES AND FKITTEKS. 
 
 coldj put about a quarter of a spoonful of them on each fritter ; lay 
 them in rather a hot friture; as soon as they are of a proper colour 
 take them out, drain them on a napkin, sprinkle, them with -fine 
 sugar, and serve them. 
 
 1103. FRITTERS A LA DAUPKINE. 
 
 Roll out a pound of brioche paste as thin as possible into an oblong 
 square, on one 1 part lay, 'a little apart, apricot marmalade, wet slightly 
 the paste round each preserve, then lay over it the plain paste, press 
 down firmly to prevent the marmalade leaving its place while being • 
 cooked ; cut out the fritters with a circular paste-cutter about two 
 inches in diameter, flour them but not too much, lay them in a hot friture 
 and the paste will swell them into little balls, as soon as they are a 
 good colour take them out, drain on a napkin, dust on them some 
 powdered white sugar, and serve. 
 
 1104. PISH FRITTERS. 
 
 Make a light forcemeat with any kind offish, put a small quantity 
 into pieces of puff paste the size of a common puff, fry in boiling 
 lard and drain dry, serve with truffles or bechamel .sauce .round 
 them. 
 
 1105. ORANGE FRITTERS. 
 
 Take some oranges, pare off the rind quite close, cut them into 
 quarters and blanch them for a quarter of an hour, then drain them, 
 take out the pips, put the oranges into a light syrup, and simmer 
 them to a caramel; remove them from the fire, let them cool, cover 
 them with syrup, dip each quarter into butter, and fry them of a 
 nice colour, sprinkle them with powdered sugar; glaze and serve 
 them. 
 
 1106.— OYSTER FRITTERS. 
 
 Blanch some oysters in their own liquor, then place them for some 
 time in vinegar and water, with salt, shred parsley, and small white ■ 
 onions sliced, after which dry them well, dip each in batter and fry 
 them. 
 
 1107- — OYSTER FRITTERS. 
 
 Blanch some of the largest oysters you can get; but do not let 
 them boil; take off the beard, strain the liquor, and season with 
 cayenne pepper and a few drops of essence of anchovies; make this 
 liquor into a good thick batter, using a little cream, have your 
 stewpan with lard quite hot, then dip them separately into the' 
 batter, then -fry them, use silver skewers for them, if not dish on a ' 
 napkin and fried parsley. 
 
 1108: — PARMESAN FRITTERS. 
 
 Grate half a pound of Parmesan cheese, and a quarter of a pound 
 of some good lemon cheese, put them into a stewpan with a spoon-' 
 
PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 281 
 
 ful of flour, mix well, add half a pint of cream, or milk, a little 
 cayenne pepper, a little black, and some salt, and a table-spoonful 
 of ready-made mustard, boil all over the fire, with a wooden spoon 
 keeping it well stirred; let it cool a little, then add two or three yolks 
 of raw eggs, stir all until it is quite stiff, turn it out upon a dish 
 to cool, and then form them into the shape most approved of, as 
 pairs, or round, or flat. Egg and bread crumb them twice, fry them 
 in very hot lard a bright yellow, fry some parsley at the same time, 
 send them up very hot, and on a napkin with fried parsley. 
 
 1109. FRITTERS ROYALE. 
 
 Put into a saucepan a quart of new milk, the moment it is on the 
 boil pour in a pint of pale sherry or Madeira, remove it from the fire, 
 let it stand six minutes, skim off the curd and then turn it into a 
 basin, beat it up well with six eggs, season it with nutmeg, beat it 
 with a whisk, add enough flour to make it of the consistence of 
 batter, add sugar, and fry quick. 
 
 1110. FRITTERS SPANISH. 
 
 Cut into lengths about the size and thickness of your finger the 
 crumb of a French roll, you may please your fancy as to the shape, 
 soak it in a compound of cream, nutmeg, sugar, pounded cinnamon, 
 and an egg ; fry it, when thoroughly soaked, a nice brown, serve with 
 butter, wine, and sugar sauce. 
 
 1111.— FRITTERS SOUFFLES. 
 
 i Mix the yolks of four eggs, half a spoonful of olive oil, and a little 
 salt, with half a pound of flour, whip the whites of the eggs to a snow 
 and add it to the rest; when your paste is equal to a thick batter 
 take one spoonful of it and roll it, in flour, make each ball about the 
 size of a walnut, fry them in a hot.friture of oil, sprinkle with white 
 sugar, and serve hot. 
 
282 
 
 EGGS AOT> OMELETS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 EGGS AND OMELETS 
 
 1112. — TO DKESS EGGS (POACHED 1 ). 
 
 Break your eggs separately in cups, have ready a large stewpan 
 half full of water, pour into it a little vinegar and salt, let 
 it simmer, then put in your eggs, not too many at a time, some 
 like them done less than others, therefore hoil them accordingly; 
 have ready by your side a. dish with warm water, and when your 
 eggs are sufficiently done put them into this clean water, trim them 
 smooth and round, dish them on pieces of toast buttered ; if for 
 dinner, upon prepared spinach or potatoes. 
 
 1113. BUTTERED EGGS, A CATHOLIC DISH. 
 
 Break six whole eggs in a stewpan, just dissolve a quarter of a 
 pound of butter by standing the basin in hot water, when all 
 dissolved, beat up the eggs and add the butter to them, have on 
 the fire another stewpan sufficiently large enough to hold the one 
 you have the eggs and butter on, half fill the large stewpan with 
 water setting the small stewpan into it, keeping it stirred one way all 
 the time, but do not let it boil, you will spread it on neatly cut toasts. 
 
 1114. — EGG BALLS. 
 
 Boil four eggs hard, take out the yolks and pound them, add 
 to them a few bread crumbs, and pepper and salt, and the yolk 
 of one raw egg, mix them all well together, take them out, and with 
 flour on your hands roll them into balls, boil them for two minutes. 
 
 1115. — EGGS, GBATIN OF, WITH CHEESE. 
 
 Take some grated bread, Parmesan cheese also grated, a piece of 
 butter, the yolks of two eggs, nutmeg, and pepper, mix these toge- 
 ther and spread them over the bottom of a dish, set it over a gentle 
 fire to make a gratin, on which break ten eggs, sprinkle Parmesan 
 cheese over the surface, finish cooking it, and brown it with the 
 salamander. 
 
 1116. — eggs maItbe d'h6tel. 
 Butter' eight small round moulds, sprinkle the insides with some 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS. 283 
 
 fine chopped parsley and onions, or shalots and mushroom, and bread 
 crumbs, a little pepper and .salt, mix in your bread crumbs; when 
 your moulds are well covered with all this preparation, break in a raw 
 egg into each mould, then set them to steam for about four minutes, 
 put a good white sauce in your dish. 
 
 1117. — SCOTCH EGGS. 
 
 Boil hard six pullet's eggs, take ofF the shells, then mask each egg 
 ■with some raw forcemeat, rolling each egg in some grated tongue or 
 ham, press this with your hand close to the eggs, then roll each egg 
 in some very fine bread crumbs, then fry them a fine yellow colour, 
 put in your dish a sharp sauce or plain gravy, or dry upon a napkin, 
 and fried parsley. 
 
 1118. — T1MBALE OP EGGS. 
 
 Hard boil either very small pullets' eggs, or large eggs, boil them 
 quite hard, when done and cold, which will soon be if you will 
 put them into cold water, then take off the shell, then cut off the 
 small end of the white, then scoop out, without breaking the white, 
 all the yolk, which you will mix up with a spoonful of good bechamel, 
 a little fine chopped pepper and salt, a little grated ham, or tongue, 
 and a few bread crumbs, then fill in the eggs, set them to steam a 
 few minutes if hot, if not, dish them either as before or a salad sauce 
 in the dish. 
 
 1119. — plovers' eggs. 
 
 If you have them raw, put some moss in paper in your stewpan r 
 then lay your eggs in upon it covering them with cold water, boil them 
 about ten minutes, then lay them in cold water, send them up in the 
 shells upon a napkin ; or take off the shells and dry them, and put 
 each either in a mould of aspic jelly, or endways upon jelly orna- 
 ments. 
 
 1120 OMELET. 
 
 Take as many eggs as you think proper, according to the size of 
 your omelet, break them into a basin with some chopped parsley and 
 salt, then beat them well and season them according to taste, then 
 have ready some onions chopped smail, put some butter into a frying- 
 pan, and when it is hot, but not to burn, put in your chopped onions, 
 give them »two or three turns, then add your eggs to it and fry the 
 whole of a nice brown, you must only fry one side, when done turn 
 it into a dish the fried side uppermost, and serve. 
 
 1121. OMELET A LA CELESTINE. 
 
 Make four omelets of three eggs each, and as thin as possible, slice 
 them carefully on the table, lay frangipane* on, and roll them up in 
 
 * Made thus: Mix five spoonfuls of flour, five eggs, a pint of milk, an ounce of butter, and a 
 pinch of salt; set on the fire, boil ten minutes, keep stirring ; pour into a basin tocool. Pound 
 eighteen sweet almonds, three bitter, { twelve macaroons;* add a Jittle powdered'-'orange-flour, 
 and enough white sugar to sweeten ; mix all together, and stir with a wooden spoon. 
 
284 EGGS AND OMELETS. 
 
 the form of a muff, trim the ends and place them on a dish, sprinkle 
 them with powdered sugar, glaze and serve them. 
 
 1122. OMELET A LA CREME. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream and put into it the crumb of a French roll, 
 parsley, shalots, both shred small, a little pepper and salt, stir it over 
 the fire till quite thick, then add half a dozen eggs, fry your omelets, 
 ,observe that it will require rather more time than usual. 
 
 1123 OMELETS OF EGGS, TOE GARNISHING OR CUTTING IN SLIPS. 
 
 Break your eggs and put your yolks and whites into separate pans, 
 beat them up with a little salt and then put them again into separate 
 earthen vessels rubbed with sweet oil, have ready a pot of boiling 
 water over a fire, put them in closely covered, and let the omelets 
 steam till thoroughly done. 
 
 1124.— -OMELET FRITTERS. 
 
 Make two or three thin omelets, adding a little sweet basil to the 
 usual ingredients, cut them into small pieces, and roll them into the 
 shape of olives, when cold dip them into batter, or enclose them into 
 puff paste, fry and serve them with fried parsley. 
 
 1125. OMELET GLACEE. 
 
 "Whip up some eggs, with a small quantity of salt, a little candid 
 lemon peel, and pounded macaroons, beat them together well, and 
 then fry them as usual; sprinkle the omelet with, sugar and serve. 
 
 1126. OMELET A LA GENDARME. 
 
 Make a ragout with sorrel, Parmesan cheese grated, and bread 
 crumbs, fry two omelets in the usual manner, between which put 
 the above ragout, place them on a dish, cut some pieces of bread, fry 
 them, dip the edge of each into some white of egg to make them 
 stick, set them round the omelet, over which pour a little melted but- 
 ter; strew bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese on it, and colour it in 
 the oven, or over a salamander. 
 
 1127. OMELET AU NATUREL. 
 
 Break eight or ten eggs into a pan, add pepper, salt, and a spoonful 
 of cold water, beat them up with a whisk, in the mean time put 
 some fresh butter into a frying jpari, when it is quite melted, and 
 nearly boiling, put in the eggs with a skimmer. As it is frying, take 
 up the edges, that they may be properly done ; when cooked double it, 
 serve very hot. 
 
 r 1128. ONION OMELET. 
 
 Cut some very white onion? into slices, give them a few turns over 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS. 285 
 
 the fire ; when nearly done, moisten them with cream, and season with 
 salt, pepper, and nutmeg; mix this with half a dozen eggs, beat the 
 whole up well, and fry the omelet either in oil or butter. 
 
 1129. ONION OMELET. 
 
 Take two or three good sized onions, cut them into slices, and fry 
 them in butter, when they are done add the yolks of two eggs, and 
 a little chopped parsley, fry two small omelets, on which lay the 
 onions, with two or three anchovies cut in slices, roll them up length- 
 ways,,fry some pieces of crumb, cut the omelets to the shape and 
 size of these, and place them thereon, pour melted butter, and strew 
 bread crumbs, and grated Parmesan cheese over them, and colour it 
 in the oven. 
 
 1130. — OMELET SOUFFLE. 
 
 Break six eggs, separate the whites from the yolks ; to the latter, put 
 four dessert-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and the rind of a lemon, 
 chopped exceedingly small, mix them well, whip the whites as if for 
 biscuits, and add them to the rest, put a quarter of a pound of butter 
 into a frying pan over a brisk fire, as soon as it is completely melted, 
 pour in the above, stir it up, that the butter may be thoroughly in- 
 corporated with the omelet, and when that is the case strain it into 
 a buttered dish, which place on hot ashes, strew powdered sugar over, 
 and colour the top carefully with a salamander. 
 
 1131. — OMELET SOUFFLE IN A MOULD. 
 
 Break six fine eggs, separate the whites and yolks, put to the latter 
 three spoonfuls of powdered sugar, four crushed macaroons, a spoonful 
 of potato flour, a little crisped orange flower in powder, stir them to- 
 gether well, whip the whites to a froth, mix them with the yolks, 
 and pour the whole into a buttered mould, but do not fill it, set it in 
 a moderate oven the same as for biscuits, when done, turn it out on 
 a dish, and serve it. This omelet should be of a clear colour, and 
 shake like a jelly. 
 
 1132. OMELET STUFFED. 
 
 Make your omelet as au naturel, but before you turn the ends over 
 lay over it a farce of sorrel, double the omelet, before you take it from 
 the pan, so that none of the farce may be seen, and cement the edges 
 with white of eggs ; serve it very hot. 
 
 Any "other sort of farce may be applied in the'same manner. 
 
 1133.-^SAV0Y OMELET. 
 
 Break six eggs in a basin, a little chopped parsley and shalpts, a 
 little chopped ham and mushrooms, a few grains of any kind of 
 dried sifted sweetherbs, and half a gill of cream, or a little good 
 white sauce, pepper and salt ; put in your omelet-pan two ounces of 
 butter to get quite hot, add to your omelet about eight pieces of 
 
286 EGGS AND OMELETS. 
 
 butter broken as small as a nut, beat all well together, put it into 
 your very hot butter, keeping frequently forcing your knife in various 
 parts to the bottom of the pan, when all is nearly dried up shake it 
 and empty it on your dish half turned over ; either send up a good 
 sauce, as may be preferred, or garnish it dry and send it on a napkin. 
 
 1134. A SIMPLE AND PLAIN SWEET OMELET. 
 
 Break up six eggs in a basin, a few grains of salt, a grating of a 
 lemon, a piece of citron, orange, and lemon peel chopped fine, a gill 
 of cream, some pounded sugar, a little orange flower water, a few 
 grains of grated nutmeg ; fry it as other omelets, trim it and roll it 
 up ; if approved of, put apricot jam in it, dish it upon a napkin. 
 
 ' 1135. APPLE SOUFFLE WITH RICE. 
 
 Blanch half a pound of the best rice in scalding water, strain 
 it clear, boil it in sufficient milk to cover it, to this add a little lemon 
 peel and a small bit of cinnamon, let it boil until the rice has 
 absorbed the milk, turn it into a dish, and when cool raise a wall 
 with it ahout three inches high, having first taken the precaution 
 to egg the dish to make it stick firmly, smooth the rice to an even 
 surface, then egg it all over, fill the dish half way up the wall of 
 rice with apple marmalade ; beat to a fine froth the whites of four 
 eggs, pour them over the marmalade, then sift powdered white sugar 
 over it, put it into the oven, keep up an even heat to give it a fine 
 colour. 
 
 1136. CUSTARD SOUFFLES. 
 
 Put two ounces of rice flour, and two of butter into a saucepan, 
 mix them well together, and add to them four ounces of powdered 
 white sugar, and two glasses of cream in which a little vanilla has 
 been infused to flavour it, boil it over a moderate fire, like a cream 
 pdtissiere, put to them the yolks of four eggs, two spoonfuls of 
 whipped cream, and the four whites beaten firm. Make the paste 
 for the moulds the same as petits pates a la bechamelle, and when 
 half haked pour in your preparation, and finish them ; when done 
 serve immediately. These souffles may be made with any fruit, or 
 flavoured with any ingredient you may please. 
 
 1137- — OMELET SOUFFLE. 
 
 Break six eggs, leave out the whites, put them in a cold place, 
 add to the yolks a little powdered sugar, a little grated lemon, a 
 little nutmeg, a few drops of lemon juice, beat all well together, 
 add a few spoonfuls of cream, then beat up the six whites very stiff, 
 put a piece of butter in your omelet-pan upon a slow fire, when 
 warm pour in the omelet, mix in your whites very gently, turn it out 
 on your dish, glaze it with pounded sugar, put it in the oven, sprinkle 
 more sugar, and send it up. 
 
EGGS AND OMELETS. 
 
 287 
 
 1138. — ORANGE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Made with orange jelly. Before your jelly quite sets get your 
 ■whisk and whip it until it begins to set, it will come up very light, 
 then put it into your mould, but this is best done after the jelly 
 has been to table, and what you have left will do. 
 
 CHASTE DB31QH FOR JL FAIR OF SALT CELLARS. 
 
288 
 
 BUTTER, CHEESEi ETC. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 
 
 1139. BUTTER TO CLARIFY. 
 
 Scrape off" the outsides of the butter you may require and then 
 put it into a stewpan by. the side of a slow fire, where it must remain 
 till the scum rises to' the top and the milk settles at the bottom ; 
 carefully with a spoon take off the scum, when clear it is fit for 
 use. 
 
 1140. BUTTER PRESERVED FOR ■WINTER. 
 
 Take two parts of the best common salt, one part of good loaf 
 sugar, and one part saltpetre, beat them well together ; to sixteen 
 ounces of butter thoroughly cleansed from the milk put one ounce 
 of the above composition, work it well, and put it into pots when 
 quite firm and cold. 
 
 1141. BUTTER BORDERS COMMON. 
 
 If you have no Montpelier butter, take a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter, work it up well with a knife, mixing with it either of 
 the- following colouring materials ; for rose colour, a little infusion 
 of carmine, or any vegetable red; green, spinach juice; yellow, an 
 infusion of saffron ; violet, a little Prussian blue added to the red ; 
 orange, red and yellow joined. 
 
 1142. — COLD BUTTERS FOR CHEESE OR BREAKFAST. 
 
 This you can make up into many pretty forms, as small pats, in 
 shape of a pine, making the roughness with a silver fork, and some 
 done on a crimping-board, and rolled on a cut pattern, either with 
 name or crest, or scooped with the bowl of a spoon, then dipping the 
 spoon in salt and water each time, it will form a shell, if sent up by 
 itself, put parsley round, it may be used with anchovies, potted 
 meats, or grated beef, or tongue, or radishes, &c. 
 
 1143. MELTED BUTTER WITHOUT BOILING. 
 
 Two ounces of butter mixed up into a cream, then add a table- 
 spoonful of flour and a gill of cold water, stir it over the fire until 
 quite thick, but it must not boil. 
 
BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 289 
 
 CHEESE. 
 
 Cheese takes an important place at the table; not alone, in its 
 simple place at the close of the dinner, but that it forms the 
 foundation of many excellent dishes. The selection of good cheese 
 requires both judgment and experience ; a delicate palate and a 
 keen sense of smell are two essential requisites, while the eye is an 
 assistant to point out those defects independent of taste or smell. 
 A prime cheese is readily told by a connoisseur by the colour and 
 texture, without consulting either nose or palate. 
 
 The inexperienced ar£ apt to be deceived in cheeses of the finest 
 quality ; when testing it by the taster the smell is strong, and the 
 taste acrid, it is therefore rejected, whereas if cut and suffered to 
 remain for two or three days in a dry closet, exposed to the air, the 
 flavour would become both pure and agreeable. To avoid this 
 error the best plan is to lay in a stock of Cheshire cheese, keep it 
 in a dry cellar in a box, bury it in saw-dust, and in about three 
 months it will be greatly improved, and fit to cut. Divide a cheese 
 into two halves, or take out one-fourth, according to the con- 
 sumption, and cover the cut parts of the cheese reserved with 
 butter, or lay close to the sides cut a buttered paper, and keep the 
 cheese in a dry place ; the part in use should be exposed in the 
 larder for about three days, it will then be ready for the table. 
 
 CHESHIRE CHEESE 
 
 Is the finest flavoured of the English cheeses, although Stilton is 
 looked upon as the greatest luxury. 
 
 STILTON CHEESE 
 
 Is usually made in the spring, and appears at table at Christmas ; 
 it is however all the better for being kept at least twelve months 
 before use. Various modes are employed to improve the flavour. 
 A piece of Cheshire affected by mites is inserted in an aperture, 
 and stopped with a wet cloth ; in a month it ripens the cheese, and 
 some bon vivans will go into ecstacies when taking it as a relish 
 with a glass of old port. Another mode is to make an excavation 
 in the shape of an inverted cone, and pour into the hollowed space 
 four glasses of port, claret, or Madeira, according to fancy; this 
 being suffered to soak in for three weeks or a month is considered 
 to bring the cheese to a state of unapproachable perfection. This 
 may suit many palates it is true, but the purity of the flavour is 
 destroyed; the best judges and the best makers aver the finest 
 Stilton is that which ripens without adventitious aid. 
 
 NORTH WILTSHIRE 
 
 Is rich and of fine flavour ; they are fit for table, if carefully kept, 
 in nine months. 
 
 DOUBLE GLOUCESTER 
 
 Is also an excellent cheese, noted for making Welsh rabbits ; is 
 very good for a stew ; it comes to perfection in about ten months. 
 
 TJ 
 
200 BUTTEB, CHEESE, ETC. 
 
 SINGLE GLOUCESTER. 
 
 This if well made is of a delicate and fine flavour, it is at 
 perfeetion in six months. This is the cheese used at taverns for 
 Welsh rabbits. 
 
 DERBY CHEESE 
 
 Is of an agreeable colour, a fine texture, and "by epicures is 
 considered the hest toasting cheese ; it is ready for table in ten or 
 twelve months. 
 
 CHEDDAR CHEESE 
 
 Is in excellent repute at good tables; it is ripe for use from nine to 
 twelve months. 
 
 DUNLOP CHEESE. 
 
 A Scotch cheese made in Ayrshire, it is held in high estimation 
 at the best tables in Scotland. 
 
 CREAM CHEESES. 
 
 There are several sorts, the Cottenham, an exquisite flavour ; the 
 Bath, very fine when prime ; the Devonshire, the Stilton, and many 
 others ; they are thin in form and should be eaten new. 
 
 FOREIGN CHEESES. 
 
 That which for years has borne the highest reputation is the 
 Parmesan, made at Parma, in Italy; and it still maintains its 
 position. Formerly the manufacture of this cheese was confined 
 to the dairies of Parma and Piacenza, and there the best cheeses 
 were made, but the district of Lodi has now run away with the 
 palm. 
 
 GRUYERE CHEESE 
 
 Is a production of Switzerland, the Eochefort is from ewes' milk, 
 the Nvzfdhatel, a French cheese. They are esteemed delicacies, 
 but to the palate of a connoisseur and gastronomist, a fine old 
 English Cheshire stands unrivalled. 
 
 Cream cheeses for keeping should be placed between two plates 
 to ripen, they should be covered every morning with fresh leaves 
 from the garden, and at the same time turned. 
 
 Where much cheese is kept in stock, a rack should be made for 
 them, and space left between them. They are greatly improved by 
 being put upon a wine cask, brushing and turning them once a 
 week, or should there be no wine in cask the beer cask will serve, 
 it will ripen and mellow the eheese ; they should be occasionally 
 turned. Use the ripened and mellowed first, and take the cheese 
 from the rack to the table as it is wanted. 
 
 The best cheeses have thin coats, and weigh heavier in proportion 
 to their size. 
 
 The round Butch cheese of the best quaKty said mot over salt 
 
BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 291 
 
 may be used for toasting ; cheeses made of skim milk ihave been 
 considered best for that purpose, many even preferring them to the 
 North Wiltshire, the richest and fattest of the English cheeses. 
 When mites have taken possession of a cheese, and this is con- 
 sidered objectionable, the following receipt, by a Derbyshire lady, 
 will have the effect of destroying them without injury to the cheese. 
 " Wipe the cheese, put it into a pot in which mutton has been 
 cooked whilst the water is yet hot, make the water boil a few 
 seconds, take out the cheese, wipe it immediately, dry it, and then 
 put it away ra a dry place until required for use. 
 
 1144. — 'TOASTS OF CHEESE. 
 
 Mix some clarified butter with some grated Parmesan cheese or 
 Gloucester, and a little ready-made mustard, a little black pepper, 
 and cayenne pepper ; prepare some neatly cut toast thin, then 
 spread the mixture upon them ; sprinkle grated cheese upon the 
 top of each dish upon a napkin. 
 
 1145. — .POTTED CHEESE. 
 
 Scrape and pound either or both Parmesan and Cheshire cheese, 
 with a piece of butter, cayenne pepper, a few grains of pounded 
 mace, a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, a glass of white wine, and a 
 little salt, press it into your potting jar for shape. 
 
 1146. APRICOT CHEESE, TO MAKE. 
 
 Stalk and pare Airily a number of apricots, take their weight and 
 put to tbem an equal weight of fine white 'sugar, the latter must be 
 moistened a Kttle, and then boil together very quickly, add the 
 kernels blanched, let it boil for half an hour, not longer, half fill 
 small jars and cover down for future use. 
 
 1147. — CHEESE ABTTTIOIAX. 
 
 Well pound some nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon, to which add a 
 gallon of new milk, two quarts of cream, boil these in the milk, 
 then put in eight eggs, six or eight spoonfuls of wine vinegar 
 to turn the milk, let it boil till it comes to a curd, tie it up in a 
 cheese cloth, and let it bang six or eight hours to drain, then open 
 it, take out the spice, sweeten it with sugar and rose water, put it 
 into a cullender, let it stand an hour more, then turn it out and 
 serve it up in a dish with cream under it. 
 
 1148. — CHEESE BRIOCHE. 
 
 Make a brioche in the usual way, and when ready to bake spread 
 it over the board, and strew over some Gruyere cheese cut into dice, 
 a quarter of a pound of cbeese to a pound of brioche paste, roll it 
 out, take off an eighfti part and put the largest portion, into the 
 mould and case, clarify it, then take the rest of the brioche and 
 
 u 2 
 
292 BUTTEK, CHEESE, ETC. 
 
 place it on the top so as to form a sort of head to the other, clarify 
 and trim it when it has been in the oven two hours, take it out 
 gently, and if the head be not detached from the rest, remove it 
 lightly, lay over paper, and replace it in the oven as quickly as you 
 can to finish baking. 
 
 1149. CHEESE AS ICED BTTTTEK. 
 
 Take a pint of cream, with some grated lemon-peel, and a good 
 spoonful ' of orange flower water, boil for a few minutes, when 
 taken off the fire add the yolks of a dozen eggs well beat up, 
 and mix together without boiling; sift through a sieve, and put 
 into an icing -pan to freeze, working it the same as ices, it must be 
 iced in such a manner that you can serve it with a spoon, like pats 
 of butter stamped, and bits of clear ice between to look like 
 crystals. 
 
 1150. CHEESE CB.AB. 
 
 Take some Cheshire or double Gloucester, cut them into thin 
 slices and press them with a knife until, you can spread it like 
 butter ; add mustard, common and Chili vinegar, cayenne pepper, and 
 salt, essence of anchovies, any fish sauce you think proper, mix it 
 well together to a thick pulp. 
 
 1151. CBAY FISH CHEESE. 
 
 Having washed and boiled the fish, take off the small claws and 
 tails and set them aside, chop the meat that remains in the shells 
 with some other fish, artichoke bottoms, sweet. herbs, and butter; 
 mix them well, and put it in a dish in the form of a small cheese, 
 round which lay the tails ; cover it with bread crumbs, and colour 
 it in the oven for a quarter of an hour. 
 
 1152. CHEESE CKEAM. 
 
 Take three pints of cream, add salt sufficient to season it, mix it 
 well, fold a cheese cloth three or four times and lay it at the bottom 
 of a sieve and pour the cream into it, when it hardens cover it with 
 nettles on a pewter plate. 
 
 1153. CHEESE CKEAM, A PLAIN FAMILY MU.Y. 
 
 Put three half pints of milk to one half pint of cream, warm, or 
 according to the same proportions,- and put .in a little rennet; 
 keep it covered in a warm place, till it is. curdled; ;have a mould 
 with holes, either of china or any other, put the curds into 
 it to drain about an hour, serve with a good plain cream and 
 pounded sugar over it. 
 
 1154. — CHEESE CREAM AND MAKMALADE. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream, mix.it .with, any .kind of marmalade you, 
 please,* a few spoonfuls will be sufficient, and a little dried pre- 
 
BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 293 
 
 served lemon-peel chopped fine ; when it is but just lukewarm put 
 some rennet to it, and serve witH pounded sugar over it. 
 
 1155. — CHEESE CREAM ICED. 
 
 Boil half a, pint of cream, then add half a pound of sugar to it, a 
 dozen of sweet almonds pounded, a little orange flower water, and 
 rasped lemon-peel, boil together a few minutes ; when you take it 
 off the fire add five yolks of eggs beat up, and stir it frequently till 
 they are well mixed with the cream ; strain it in a sieve, and put it 
 into the icing-pot ; when it is pretty well iced, work it well to put 
 it into cheese-moulds, ice it again and serve. It is also done with 
 coffee and chocolate in the same manner as the ices, only that each 
 is thickened with four or five yolks of eggs as directed in the first, 
 and moulded like a cheese, which gives it the name. 
 
 1156.— CHEESE CREAM ANOTHER RECEIPT. 
 
 Take a quart of cream and twelve quarts of new milk, put rennet 
 just enough to turn it, and let the milk and cream be just warm; 
 when it has stood till curd has come, lay a cloth in the vat the size 
 of the cream, cut out the curd with a skimmer, dish and put it into 
 the vat till it is full, turn the cheese cloth over it, and as the curd 
 settles lay on until you have got enough to make one cheese. When 
 the whey is drained off turn the cheese into a dry cloth, and then 
 lay on it a pound weight at night, turn it out into another cloth, and 
 the next morning salt it a very little, then having made a bed of 
 nettles or ash leaves to lay it on, cover it with the same, shifting it 
 twice a day for about ten days when it will be fit for use. 
 
 1157. CAULIELOWERS AND CHEESE. 
 
 Make a sauce with cullis, a bit of butter and pepper, but not salt, 
 put in a dish some grated Parmesan or Gruyere cheese, place the 
 cauliflowers that have been nicely boiled on this, pour the sauce 
 over, and cover them with slices of Parmesan cheese warned to 
 make them stick to the cauliflowers, colour it with a salamander. 
 
 1158. CARDOONS IN CHEESE. 
 
 Add to the sauce in which the cardoons are cooked, grated 
 Parmesan cheese, and put it over them when placed in the dish, 
 cover them with bread crumbs and grated cheese, pour melted 
 butter over the whole, colour it in the oven or with a salamander. 
 
 1159. DAMSON CHEESE. 
 
 Take eight pounds of damsons, and bake them in a jar till they 
 are tender, then rub them through a cullender, put to them one 
 pound and a half of lump sugar, and let them boil to the thickness 
 of marmalade. 
 
294 BUTTEB, CHEESE, ETC; 
 
 1160. — DAMSON CHEESE. 
 
 Fill a stone jar or pan with damsons, tie them over with- paper, to 
 this allow only half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, place the 
 pan of fruit without sugar into the oven to stew, strain the fruit upon 
 a sieve, take out some kernels to blanch to be added to the jam,, rub 
 the damson through a hair or a wire sieve, reduce the syrup by 
 boiling it to one half, then put in your sugar and kernels and the 
 fruit you have rubbed through, boil it gently for some time until it 
 begins to candy at the sides of your preserving-pan,, then pour the 
 jam into moulds or small potting pots. 
 
 1161. CHEESE ENTKEES. 
 
 For entrees Parmesan should be made use of, it should' be grated, 
 and meat or fish that you serve it with must be cooked a la braise 
 or en ragout ; very little salt must be used in the sauce or meat, 
 as Parmesan is very salt ; put into, the bottom of the dish in which 
 you are going to serve your meat, some of the sauce you intend to 
 use with your meat, then stew with grated cheese, place your meat 
 upon this, pour over this the remainder of the sauce, and cover the- 
 whole with Parmesan, then put it in the oven to brown, and serve 
 with a thick sauce, cauliflowers and Spanish cardoons may be 
 served in the same manner for entremets. 
 
 1162. — CHEESE, FEESH. 
 
 Sweeten two quarts of cream with sugar* boil it thin, then put in 
 some damask rose-water, keep it stirred that it may mot burn. 
 When it is thickened and turned take it off the fire, wash the 
 strainer and cheese-vat with rose-water, then roll your curd back- 
 wards and forwards in, the strainer to drain the whey from it, then 
 put the curd into the vat as soon as it is cool, slip it into the 
 cheese-dish with some of the whey, and serve it. 
 
 1163 CHEESE KK1TTEKS. 
 
 Take some mild brie or gruyere cheese, add' some milk and butter, 
 and put the whole into a saucepan, put to these ingredients flour, 
 eggs, and sugar, make into a. paste,, of which form your fritters, fry 
 them of a nice colour and serve, then sprinkle with sugar, a small 
 quantity of orange flowers may be added. 
 
 1164. CHEESE MABIGOUJ. 
 
 Take some of the freshest and best coloured leaves, pound them 
 in a mortar and strain out the juice, put this into milk with the 
 rennet. The milk being set and the curd produced, break it as 
 gently and as equally as you can, put it into the cheese, vat and 
 press it with a pound weight, there being such a number of holes 
 in the- bottom part of the vat as will let the whey out easily. They 
 must be finished as all other cheese. 
 
BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 295 
 
 1165. CHEESE MACAH0NI. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of macaroni, a pint and a half of new 
 milk, put. it in a. stewpan, and let it stew till quite tender, talte half 
 a pound of Parmesan, grate it, add it to the macaroni, quarter of a 
 pound of butter,, pepper and salt, and a little cayenne, according to 
 taste,, mix them well together, and let them stew ten minutes, brown 
 with a salamander, and serve. 
 
 1166. ONIONS WITH PAKMESAN CHEESE. 
 
 Take six large onions, pare them and cut them in slices half an 
 inch in thickness, then make a batter with flour, half a gill of eream, 
 a little pepper, salt, and three eggs, beat it up for ten minutes, after 
 which add a quarter of a pound of Parmesan cheese grated fine, and 
 mix well together, to which add the onions, have ready some boil- 
 ing lard, then take the onions out of the batter with a fork singly, 
 and fry them nicely till of a nice brown, drain them dry and serve 
 them placed round each other; for sauce, a little melted butter with 
 mustard in it. 
 
 1167- CHEESE PASTE. 
 
 Take a cream cheese, flour, a little butter, three eggs, and some 
 good cueam, make it into a. paste ; you must judge the quantity of 
 flour according to the quantity of cheese and consistency you would 
 hare the paste. 
 
 1168. CHEESE POUNDED. 
 
 Cut into thin bits a pound of mellow Cheddar or North Wilts, or 
 Cheshire cheese ; if the cheese is dry add to it three ounces of fresh 
 butter, if moist two ounces will be sufficient, pound and rub them in a, 
 mortar well together till they are quite smooth. Spread on bread it 
 makes' a. nice luncheon or supper ; you may if you like pound with 
 it enwry-powder, ground spies, black pepper, cayenne, a little made 
 mustard^ moisten with a. glass of sherry ; if pressed down close in a 
 jar and covered with clarified butter, it will keep for several days 
 in cool weather. 
 
 1169. CHEESE PTJFES. 
 
 Take half a pint of cheese curd strained from the whey, with a 
 spoonful and a half of flour, three eggs, leave out the whites of 
 two, a spoonful of orange flower water,, a quarter of a nutmeg, and 
 sugar to make it sweet ; beat it in a mortar ; lay a little of this 
 paste in very small round cakes on a tin plate ; if the oven is hot, 
 they will take a quarter of an hour to bake them, serve them with 
 pudding sauce. 
 
 1170v — POKE CHEESE. 
 
 Take a pig's 1 head, and having boned it, cut all the meat into 
 rather thick slices, do the same with the ear, separate the fat from 
 
296 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 
 
 the lean, and mix the whole with bay leaf, thyme, basil, sage, and 
 parsley, all shred fine, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and other spices, the 
 peel and juice of a lemon ; lay the skin of the head open over a 
 salad. bowl, arrange the pieces in it, mixing with them a little beef 
 tongue a l'ecarlate, and truffles, when all are put in wrap the skin 
 round them, sew it up very tight, and dress it as directed for hog's 
 head ; when done take it from the fire, and whilst warm put it in a 
 mould to give any shape you like. 
 
 1171. PORK CHEESE, ITAIIAN. 
 
 Pound a pig's liver with two thirds bacon and one third beef, 
 when they are thoroughly incorporated add to them shred thyme, 
 sage, basil, a bay leaf, parsley, coriander spice, anise powder, grated 
 nutmeg, salt and pepper, line a mould with curd, into which put the 
 above preparation ; cover it with thin slices of bacon, and bake it, 
 when done leave it to cool in the mould. 
 
 ]172.— CHEESE, TO PRESERVE SOUND. 
 
 *" Wash it in warm whey once a month, wipe it, and keep it on a 
 rack, if you wish it to ripen keep it in a damp cellar, which will 
 bring it forward : when a whole cheese is cut, the largest piece 
 should be spread inside with butter, and the outside should be 
 wiped to preserve it ; to keep that which is in daily use moist, let 
 a clean cloth be wetted and wrapped round the cheese when carried" 
 from table. 
 
 1173. CHEESE BOASTED, TO COME UP AFTER DINNER. 
 
 Mix three ounces of grated Cheshire cheese, the yolks of two 
 eggs, four ounces of butter, and three ounces of grated bread, a 
 dessert-spoonful of mustard, a little salt and pepper, beat the whole 
 well in a mortar, toast some bread, cut it into proper pieces, lay the 
 paste as above thick upon them, put them in a Dutch oven covered 
 with a dish till hot through, remove the dish and let the cheese 
 brown a little, serve as hot as possible. 
 
 1174. — RICE CHEESE. 
 
 Take a pound of rice, boil it till it becomes thick as hasty pud- 
 ding in rather less than half a pint of milk, pour it hot on an ounce 
 and a half of butter, the same weight of Lisbon sugar, mixing it 
 Well together; let it stand till cold, then add one egg, and the yolk 
 of another, and a little white wine. 
 
 1175. CHEESE SOUFFLE. 
 
 Take three ounces of flour and two of butter, put them in a 
 stewpan with one egg, mix them together with a pint of milk, and 
 set it on the fire till it begins to boil, if .too thick add a little more 
 milk, then break in the yolks of five eggs and a gill of cream, when 
 
BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 297 
 
 these are all mixed, stir in gently two ounces of grated Parmesan 
 cheese and a little pepper and salt, beat the whites of the eggs 
 ■with three more, and finish as if for souffles; when this light 
 batter is put in paper cases it is called " bondues au fromage." 
 
 1176. CHEESE, SAGE. 
 
 Take the tops of young red sage, bruise in a mortar with some 
 leaves of spinach, squeeze the juice, mix it with the rennet in the 
 milk, more or less, as you like it, for colour and taste ; when the 
 curd is come break it gently, and put it in with the skimmer till it 
 is pressed two inches above the vat, press it eight or ten hours, salt 
 it, and turn every day. 
 
 1177- CHEESE STEWED. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of Cheshire and Gloucester cheese, 
 cut it small and lay it in a stewpan, add a gill of Lisbon wine, a 
 tea-spoonful of water, and if liked one of mustard, mix them over a 
 fire till the cheese is dissolved, then have ready a cheese-plate, with 
 a lighted lamp beneath, put the mixture in it and serve it up 
 directly, send with it some fresh toasted bread. 
 
 1178. STILTON CHEESE. 
 
 Take the night's cream and the morning milk, mix them 
 together with the rennet ; when the curd is produced, it must not 
 be broken as is done with other cheeses, but take it out with a soil 
 dish altogether, and place it in the sieve to drain, gradually press 
 it till it becomes firm and dry, then place it in a wooden hoop, 
 and afterwards keep it dry on boards, turning it often with cloth 
 binders round it, which are to be tightened as occasion requires; 
 in some dairies the cheese, after being taken out of the hoop, is 
 hound round with a cloth tight; this cloth should be changed 
 daily, until the cheese becomes firm enough to support itself; after 
 the cloth is taken off it must be rubbed every day all over with a 
 brush for three months, and if the weather is moist or damp, twice 
 daily, and even before the cloth is taken off the top and bottom 
 must be rubbed every day. 
 
 1179. — CHEESE SOUP. 
 
 Take a dish that will bear the fire, and spread over the bottom 
 of it gruyere cheese cut small, with pieces of fresh butter strewed 
 about it, cover this with thin slices of bread, and lay bread, butter, 
 and cheese alternately until you have enough, taking care to finish 
 ■with the butter and cheese ; moisten these layers with stock, and 
 let them simmer until it is burnt to the bottom and the liquor is 
 evaporated ; when about to send it to table add more stock, with a 
 little pepper, and let the potage be rather thick. 
 
 1180. CHEESE TOAST. 
 
 Take some butter, made mustard, and salt, mix it in a mass, 
 spread it on thin fresh made toast, and grate Gloucester cheese. 
 
298 
 
 BUTTEK, CHEESE, ETC. 
 
 1181. CHEESE TOASTED, OK A SCOTCH BABBIT. 
 
 _ Toast a slice of Bread, butter it, toast a sice of cheese on both 
 sidss, and serve it on the bread. 
 
 1182. CHEESE TOASTED, OB A WELSH BABBIT. 
 
 Take a. slice of bread and nicely toast it, toast a slice of cheese 
 on one side* lay it on the toast, and, with a hot salamander* brown 
 it,, and rub some mustard over it. 
 
 1183. WELSH BABBIT ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Toast a slice of bread quick on both sides and butter it, toast 
 a slice of Gloucester cheese on one side, then lay that side upon 
 your bread, then hold a hot salamander, or shovel over the other side, 
 spread it with mustard and a little pepper, keep it hot, and cover it 
 over. 
 
 1184. —Baldwin's feomageke fob toasting, cheese. 
 
 Here, we have a very elegant arrangement for toasting, cheese 
 upon our own supper table. Amongst other good points it possesses 
 one. desideratum worthy of mention, — ting; cheese never gets burnt. 
 
 dibections- fob usma the fbqmagekk. 
 ]?foce the iron heater, a, when red hot,, in the receptacle, outside 
 of which pour about a pint of boiling water. Put on the dish v, oh 
 
BTJTTEB, CHEESE, ETC. 2&9 
 
 which good cheese, cut in thin slices, must be placed ; put on the 
 cover,, and in about five minutes the cheese will be fit for serving, c 
 represents the handle, for shifting the heater. 
 
 1185. — TIMBAUE OF MACAROJNI, SMAU., AND LARGE. 
 
 For small timbales for entrees, butter six little moulds, put a slice 
 of truffle at the bottom of the mould', or little round pieces all round 
 the bottom-, laying one piece on the other ; when done put a very 
 small piece of quenelle, spread thinly on the top of the truffle, then 
 have ready cut pieces of macaroni, previously boiled and dried 
 in a cloth, all of an equal size ; place them round your mould, the 
 end of the macaroni with the hole to the side of the mould, 
 letting it touch the mould. When you have got round with the 
 macaroni, the mould, if a big one, should have a well to it, then put 
 thinly some more quenelle, sprinkling each layer with grated Par- 
 mesan cheese, and so proceed as at first, until the moulds are full ; 
 then twist butter paper over your mould, and steam a large one 
 one hour, the small one less time ; the hole in the middle of the 
 big mould when turned out upon the dish will be filled with pre- 
 pared crumbs, sweetbread, truffles, and mushrooms, the small ones 
 ■will have truffles, or mushroom sauce, or any good sauce that may 
 be prepared, pound in the dish, the trufHe top to be glazed. 
 
 1186. — MACARONI BROWN. 
 
 Prepare your macaroni as before, but if you have any left put it in 
 your dish that you send to table, put grated cheese on the top of all 
 of it, keeping it high, clarify some butter and pour it over it, put it 
 in the oven to brown, send it very hot to table. 
 
 1 187. — MACARONI. 
 
 Boil your macaroni in milk, and a good piece of butter, until quite 
 tender, strain it off, have ready in another stewpan some white sauce, 
 add to it a little made mustard, a quarter of a pound of Parmesan 
 cheese, a little cayenne pepper, common pepper, and salt. 
 
 1 1 88. — FONDEAU. 
 
 Boil together half a pint of milk and two ounces of 'butter, and a 
 little salt, mix in smooth two spoonfuls of flour, then stir it over the 
 fire for about five minutes, then take it off and add to it half a pound 
 of grated Parmesan cheese, the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of 
 two well beaten before you add it ; then add a gill of cream, then 
 heat the remaining six whites of eggs to a very high froth, then 
 mix them lightly to the rest, then fill your case, either a silver one 
 well buttered, or small square paper cases, bake them in a slow fire, 
 about twenty minutes the small ones, and longer the large ones. 
 
300 
 
 BUTTER, CHEESE, ETC. 
 
 1 189. — RAMEQUINS. 
 
 Break eight eggs into a basin, add two ounces of clarified butter, 
 two tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, some black pepper, and cayenne 
 pepper, and salt, a gill of cream ; beat all well together, add half a 
 pound of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little common cheese grated, 
 beat well together, then fill your mould or papers. • 
 
 I used at one time to divide the eggs and whip the whites the last 
 thing, quite stiff, and stir in gently, but I now make them as above 
 equally as good and light as with the former time and trouble. My 
 souffles I now make the same way, without whipping the whites 
 which by most cooks is still preserved ; my way is quite as light and 
 thesoufHe rises equally as high. 
 
CUSTARDS. 301 
 
 CHAPTER XVIIL 
 CUSTARDS, CBEAMS, ICES, JELLIES, MARMALADES, ETC. 
 
 1 190. — CUSTAKDS. 
 
 Boil a pint ol milk with lemon peel and cinnamon, mix a pint of 
 cream and the yolks of eggs beaten ; when the milk tastes of the 
 seasoning sweeten it enough for the whole, pour it into the cream and 
 stir it well, then give the custard a simmer till of a proper thickness, 
 do not let it boil, stir it one way the whole time ; then flavour with a 
 large spoonful of peach water, and two tea-spoonfuls of brandy, or 
 some ratifia. If you wish your custard to be very rich put a quart of 
 cream and no milk. 
 
 1191.— CUSTAKDS. 
 
 Put on to boil half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, with 
 a few pieces of sugar, a bay -leaf, two dozen coriander seeds, a 
 piece of cinnamon, three cloves, a few grains of nutmeg ; boil for 
 a quarter of an hour, take it off to cool, have beaten up four yolks 
 of eggs, and two whole eggs, beat them well up, then add your warm 
 milk to it, stir it over a slow fire with your whisk until thick, mind it 
 does not boil and curdle, keep stirring it off the fire until cold, pass 
 it through a tammy, it will then be fit for use ; flavour with various 
 things, differing according to what it may be required for. 
 
 1192. ALMOND CUSTAKD 
 
 Is the same as the former custard preparation. Blanch and pound 
 fine about twelve bitter almonds, and two dozen Jordan, and mix it 
 into the custard when over the fire ; a few drops of orange-flower 
 water. 
 
 1193.— ALMOND CUSTAKDS. 
 
 Blanch and beat three ounces of sweet almonds and one ounce of 
 bitter fine, with a spoonful of water ; beat a pint of cream with two 
 spoonfuls of rose water, and put to them the yolks of four eggs, and 
 as much sugar as will make it sweet ; then add the almonds, stir it 
 all over a slow fire till it is of a proper thickness, but not to boil. 
 Pour it into cups. 
 
302 CUSTARBS. 
 
 1194.— CUSTARD, BAKED. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream with mace and cinnamon ; when cold, take 
 four eggs, leaving out two of the whites, a little rose and orange- 
 flower water, a little white wine, nutmeg, and sugar to your taste ; 
 mix them well together, and bake them in china cups. 
 
 1195. — CREAM CUSTARD. 
 
 Take the crumb of a penny loaf and grate it very fine, and add to 
 it a quart of cream with half a pound of fresh butter, and the yolks 
 of a dozen eggs, put to them »s much sugar as will sweeten them, 
 then let it thicken over the fire, make the custards shallow, and when 
 they have stood half an hour in a slow oven, grate some loaf sugar 
 over them and serve. 
 
 1196. — CUSTARD A LA PARISIENNE. 
 
 Take fifty sound apples and cut them into quarters, pare and core 
 them, put them in a saucepan with half a pound of butter, a quarter 
 of a pound of powdered white sugar, and a pot of apricot marmalade ; 
 put them over a moderate fire, but of a good even heat, let them 
 remain to «often hut not to break, a few minutes will suffice. Have 
 ready a preparation of rice boiled, with half a pound of butter, the 
 same of sugar on which has been grated the peel of four lemons, a 
 pinch of salt, and eight glasses of milk thickened with the yolk of 
 ten eggs ; make a raised crust about nine inches in diameter, and 
 five or six in height, in which put a fourth part of the rice cold, on 
 that lay forty-eight quarters of apples, over them pour the same 
 quantity of rioe, &c, reserving the (finest quarters for the top. Bake 
 it in a brisk oven for two hours and a half, m iffintil done, when it is 
 done mark the top with apple jeMy, apricot or currant marmalade, 
 and the crust with the same, bitter almonds also. 
 
 1197. — CUSTARD .(PIAIN). 
 
 Boil together a quart of cream or new milk, a stick of cinnamon, 
 four bay leaves, and some mace ; then take twelve eggs, beat them 
 up well, sweeten them, put them into a pan, and bake or boil them, 
 stirring them all one way till they are of a proper thickness ; boil 
 the spice and leaves first, and when the milk is cold mix the eggs 
 and boil it. The spice may be left out, and only the bay leaves used, 
 or, in lieu of that, four or five bitter almonds, to the taste. 
 
 1198. — CHERRY CUSTARD. 
 
 Take two founds <©f ripe cherries, stoned and -tailed, and put them 
 into a preserving pan with half a pound of powdered sugar.; when 
 nearly dome drain the cherries well, strain the syrup, and boil it until 
 it hegins to adhere to the fingers, then pour it to a fourth part of the 
 cherries, with the juice which drained from them, and put them on 
 the fire till the nap foams; prepare the custard in the usual way 
 
CKBAsrs. 303 
 
 pour in the drained cherries, bake it far three quarters of an hour in 
 a brisk oven, then dorez and glaze it. Previous to serving at table 
 mark it with the remaining cherries, and pour the syrup over the 
 whole. 
 
 1109. LEMON CUSTARD. 
 
 Take the yolks of tea eggs beaten, strain them, and whip them 
 with a pint of cream ; 'boil tine juice of two lemons sweetened with 
 the rind of one, when *old strain it to the cream and eggs ; when it 
 almost boils, put it into a dish, grate over the rind of a lemon, and 
 brown it with a salamander. 
 
 1200. — ORANGE CUSTARD." 
 
 Beat the rind of a Seville orange (previously boiled very tender), 
 in a mortar, to a very fine paste, add the juice of a Seville orange, a 
 spoonful of the best brandy, the yolks of four eggs, and four ounces 
 of lamp sugar ; beat them well together for ten minutes, then pour in 
 gradually a pint -of boiling cream, beating it till it is cold, and put it 
 into custard glasses. Place the glasses in an earthen dish of hot 
 water, let them remain till they are set, then stick preserved orange 
 or orange chips on the top. Serve either hot or cold. 
 
 1201. — TIICE CUSTARDS WITHOUT CREAM. 
 
 Take one tea-spoonful of rice flour, a pint of new milk, fhe yolks 
 of three eggs, a table-spoonful of ratafia-sugar to your liking ; mix 
 the rice very smooth, and stir it, with the eggs, into the boiling 
 milk. 
 
 CREAMS. 
 
 1202. — APRICOT CREAM. 
 
 The same as raspberry and currant cream, rub your apricots through. 
 a sieve, if jam, the same ; use a little lemon juice and less sugar than 
 to the other creams. 
 
 1203. — CABBAGE CREAM. 
 
 Put a gallon of milk over the fire and skim it as long as any froth 
 rises, then empty it into eight or ten bowls as fast as you can without 
 making it feoifch, then set them in a place where the wind may blow 
 upon them ; when the milk is rather cooled gather off the cream with 
 your hands, crumple it together and layit on a plate ; when you have 
 laid four or five layings one upon another, then dip a feather in rose 
 water and musk and stroke it over it, then sift some fine sugar and 
 grated nutmeg over it and lay on three or four layers more, then set 
 all the milk on the fire to boil again, and when it rises up distribute 
 as you did before in your bowls, and use it in the like manner; do 
 tMs five times, (laying on yomr cream as before one upon another, till 
 it is as round and as high as a cabbage. Let one of the "bowls stand, 
 
304 CREAMS. 
 
 because it will be thickest and most crumpled, lay on that last the 
 top of all; strew pounded loaf sugar over the whole. 
 
 1204. CHOCOLATE CREAM. 
 
 Put two squares of chocolate scraped into a stewpan with two 
 ounces of sugar, a pint of milk and half a pint of cream, let it boil 
 till a third is consumed, and when half cold beat up the yolks of 
 six eggs with it, and strain the whole through a sieve, and then put 
 the small dish or cups in which the cream is to be served into a pan 
 containing enough boiling water to reach above half-way up the 
 cream, cover this pan and put a little fire on the pan, when done 
 and the cream cool, serve. 
 
 1205. — CLOTTED CREAM. 
 
 String four blades of mace on a string, put them to a gill of new 
 milk, and six spoonfuls of rose water, simmer a few minutes, then 
 by degrees stir this liquor, strained into the yolks of two new eggs 
 well beaten, stir the whole into a quart of good cream, set it over 
 the fire and stir till hot, but not boiling, pour it into a deep dish and 
 let it stand four and twenty hours, serve it in a cream dish ; to eat 
 with fruit some persons prefer it without any taste but cream, in 
 which case use a quart of new milk, or do it like the Devonshire 
 cream scalded ; when done enough a round mark will appear on the 
 surface of the cream, the size of the bottom of the pan it is done in, 
 which in the country they call the ring, and when that is seen 
 remove the pan from the fire. 
 
 1206. — EXCELLENT CREAM. 
 
 Take three quarters of a pint of cream, whip it up to a strong froth 
 with some finely scraped lemon peel, a squeeze of lemon juice, half a 
 glass of sweet wine, and sugar, lay it on a sieve in a form, and 
 the next day lay it on a dish and ornament it with very light puff 
 paste biscuits made in tin shapes the length of a finger, and about 
 two thick, over which should be strewed sugar, or a little glaze with 
 isinglass; the edges of the dishes may be lined with macaroons. 
 
 1207. — CHOCOLATE. — WHIPPED CREAM. 
 
 Dissolve a quarter of a pound of the best chocolate in a glass 
 of boiling water over a moderate fire, then let it cool, add to it a 
 quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and mix it with whipped 
 cream. 
 
 1208. CHERRY ICE CREAM. 
 
 Pound half a pound of preserved cherries unstoned, put them into 
 a basin with a pint of cream, the juice of a lemon, and a gill of 
 syrup ; pass it through a sieve, and freeze it in the usual way. 
 
CREAM. 305 
 
 1209.— CURRANT ICE CREAM. 
 
 Put into a basin a large spoonful and a half of currant jelly, with 
 half a gill ofsyrup ; squeeze in the juice of one lemon and a half, add 
 a pint of cream and a little cochineal, pass it through a sieve, and 
 freeze it in the usual way. 
 
 1210. CURRANT CREAM. 
 
 Take some currants thoroughly ripe, bruise them in boiled cream, 
 add beaten cinnamon, and sweeten to your taste ; then strain it 
 through a fine sieve, and serve. 
 
 Strawberries and raspberries may be done in the same way. The 
 fruit ought to be sweetened previous to putting in the cream, which 
 should be used almost cold, else it is liable to curdle. 
 
 1211. GOOSEBERRY CREAM. 
 
 Take a quart of gooseberries, boil them very quick in enough 
 water to cover them; stir in half an ounce of good butter, when 
 they become soft pulp them through a sieve, sweeten the pulp while, 
 it is hot, and then beat it up with the yolks of four eggs. Serve in 
 a dish, cups, or glasses. 
 
 *° 1212. LEMON ICE CREAM. 
 
 Take the juice of four lemons and the peel of one grated, add two 
 gills of syrup and one pint of cream, mix it all together, pass it 
 through a sieve, and freeze it. 
 
 1213. STRAWBERRY CREAM. 
 
 Pulp six ounces of strawberry jam with a pint of eream through a 
 sieve, add to it the juice of a lemon, whisk it fast at the edge of a 
 dish, lay the froth on a sieve, add a little more juice of lemon, and 
 when no more froth will rise put the cream into a dish, or into 
 glasses, and place the froth upon it, well drained. 
 
 1214. — STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. 
 
 Pass a pint of picked strawberries through a sieve with a wooden- 
 spoon, add four ounces of powdered sugar, and a pint of cream, and 
 freeze. 
 
 1215. — CREAM HASTY. 
 
 Take a gallon of milk from the cow, set it on the fire, and when it 
 begins to rise take it off the fire, skim off all the cream and put it on 
 a plate, then set the skillet on the fire again and repeat the skimming 
 till your plate is full of cream, put to it some orange flower and 
 sugar, and serve it. 
 
 1216. ITALIAN CREAM. 
 
 "• Boil two ounces of isinglass as usual for creams, whip up a pint 
 of cream until it thickens, add the juice of two lemons, some sifted 
 
 x 
 
306 
 
 CEEAM. 
 
 sugar, a little brandy, and a little white wine, whip all in by degrees, 
 when a good thickness add in your cold isinglass, whip it until it 
 begins to set, then fill your mould; if you like colour one half of it. 
 
 1217. — CREAM, TO KEEP. ' 
 
 Cream already skimmed may be kept twenty-four hours if scalded 
 without sugar, and by adding to it as much powdered lump sugar as 
 will make it sweet, it will keep good two days in a cool place. 
 
 1218. — CREAM AU' NATUREL. 
 
 Take some thin cream, mind and let it be fresh, and put it in a 
 bowl on ice to cool, add to it powdered sugar, and serve it 
 
 1219. — PINE APPLE CREAM. 
 
 Have some pine apple prepared in syrup, and cut into small dice, 
 putting it in your cream with a little of the syrup, the other process 
 as before. 
 
 1220. RASPBERRY AND 1 CURRANT CREAM. 
 
 Use a pottle of raspberries, and the juice of a handful of currants, 
 passed through the sieve with the raspberries,, then proceed the same 
 as before, precisely. 
 
 1221. RHENISH CREAM. 
 
 This can be made best from some stale clear jelly ; boil your jelly 
 and let it cool a little, have ready eight yolks of eggs,, a little sugar, 
 and a little brandy, mis this all to the jelly, pass it through a tammy 
 sieve, or a lawn sieve, into a basin, keeping it well mixed until it 
 begins to jelly, then put it into your mould. 
 
 1222. CREAM STRAWBERRIES. ' 
 
 Eub through a fine sieve about four ounces of strawberries, have 
 ready boiled in a small quantity of water or milk two ounces of 
 isinglass, strain it, and put it to get cold, but not to set; put in a 
 large basin one pint of cream, whip it with your whisk until it begins 
 to thicken, then whip in a piece of a lemon free from pips, a handful 
 of sifted sugar, now the strawberries, more sugar if not sweet enough, 
 now whip in gently your isinglass, not more than a tea^cupful^ whip 
 it well, and if nearly set put it into your mould ; i£ not a good colour,, 
 as that of a strawberry, use cochineal colouring to it. ^ 
 
 1223. VANILLA CREAM. 
 
 Boil a stick of vanilla in a cupful of milk, with a few pieces of 
 lump sugar, for one hour, take out the vanilla, and let the milk get 
 cold, prepare your isinglass and cream as in other creams, whip 
 the essence of vanilla into.it, make it rather sweet with, sifted sugar, 
 
ices. 307 
 
 fill your mould as before. Turn out all jellies and creams with luke- 
 warm water, damping the tops with a clean cloth before you turn 
 them over upon your dish. 
 
 1224. GOOSEBEKRY FOOL. 
 
 Put gooseberries into a stone jar with some fine Lisbon sugar, put 
 the jar either in a stove or in a saucepan of water over the fire, if in 
 a stove a large spoonful of water should be added to the fruit; when it 
 is done to a palp press it through a cullender. Have ready a sufficient 
 quantity of new milk, and a tea-cupful of raw cream boiled together, 
 or you may use an egg instead of the cream, leave it to get cold, then 
 sweeten well with sugar and mix the pulp by degrees with it. 
 
 1225. — APPLE FOOL 
 
 May be made as gooseberry fool, except that when stewed they should 
 t>e peeled and pulped, 
 
 1223. TRIFLE. 
 
 Cover the bottom of. the dish, with Naples biscuits, and macaroons 
 broke in halves, wet with brandy and white wine poured over them, 
 cover them with patches of raspberry jam, fill the dish with a good 
 custard, then whip up a syllabub, drain the froth on a sieve, put it 
 on the custard and strew comfits over all. 
 
 1227. APPLE TRIFLE. 
 
 Take a quantity of apples, and pulp them through a sieve until you 
 have sufficient to make a thick layer at the bottom of your dish, 
 grate the rind of half a* lemon fine and mix with it, sweeten to 
 palate with sugar. Mix together half a pint of milk, the same quantity 
 of cream, and the yolk of one egg, scald it over a quick fire keeping 
 it well stirred all the time, it must not boil, add a little more sugar 
 and then stand it to cool ; when cold lay it over the apples with 
 a spoon, cover it with a whip which should be made about twenty- 
 four hours previously, and which^should be thus made ; — to a gill of 
 rich cream put the whites of two eggs well beaten, four tea-spoon- 
 . fuls of pounded sugar, some lemon peel, and a wine glass of raisin 
 wine, beat it well with a whisk which is kept only for such purposes. 
 A gooseberry trifle may be made in the same way. 
 
 ICES. ' 
 
 Sorbetieres, or moulds for cream or fruit ices, are made of two 
 sorts of materials, block-tin and pewter, of these the latter is the 
 .best, the substance to be iced congealing more gradually in it than 
 the former, an object much,to be desired, for when the ice is formed 
 too quickly it is apt to be rough and full of lumps like hail, espe- 
 cially if it is not well worked with the spatula ; the other utensils 
 
 x 2 
 
308 ICES. 
 
 fit for this operation are a deep pail with a cork at the bottom, and 
 a wooden spatula, about nine inches long; fill the pail with pounded 
 ice over which spread four handfuls of salt, then having filled a. 
 sorbetiere or mould with cream, &c, put on the cover^and immerse it 
 in the centre of the pail, taking care the ice touches the mould in 
 all parts, throw in two more handfuls of salt and leave it a quarter 
 of an hour, then take the cover from the mould', and with the spatula 
 stir the contents up together, so that those parts that touch the sides 
 of the mould, and consequently congeal first, may be mixed with the 
 liquor in the middle, work this about for seven or eight minutes, 
 cover the mould, take the pail by the ears and shake it round and 
 round for a quarter of an hour, open the mould a second time and 
 stir as before, continue these operations alternately until it is entirely 
 congealed and smooth, and free from lumps, take care to let out the 
 water that will collect at the bottom of the pail, by means of the 
 cock, and press the ice close to the sorbetiere with the spatula; when 
 the cream is iced take it from the pail, dip the mould in warm water 
 and do not let it remain an instant, dry it quickly, turn it out and 
 serve as quickly as possible. All sorts of ices are finished in this 
 manner, the preparation of the articles of which they are composed 
 constitutes the only difference between them. 
 
 1228. ICE FOR ICING HOW TO PREPARE. 
 
 Break almost to powder a few pounds of ice, and throw in among it 
 a large handful and a half of salt, you must prepare in the cool part of 
 house that as little of the warm air may come as possible; the ice and 
 salt being in a bucket, put your cream into an ice-pot and cover it, 
 immerse it in the ice, and draw that round the pot so that it may 
 cover every part, in a few minutes put a spatula or spoon in and stir 
 it well, remove the parts that ice round the edges to the centre, if 
 the ice cream or water be in a form shut the bottom close, and move 
 the whole in the ice, as you cannot use a spoon to that without 
 danger of waste ; there should be holes in the bucket to let the ice off 
 as it thaws. 
 
 1229. ICING FOR CAKES. 
 
 For a large cake beat eight ounces of fine sugar, put it into a 
 mortar with four spoonfuls of rose water and the whites of two 
 eggs beaten and strained, whisk it well, and when the cake is almost 
 cold dip a feather in the icing and cover the cake well, set it in an 
 oven to harden, but do not let it remain long enough to discolour, 
 keep the cake in a dry place. 
 
 1230. — ICING FOR CAKES. 
 
 Put a pound of prepared icing sugar into a basin with the whites 
 of two eggs, beat it up well for half an hour with a wooden spoon, 
 if too thin add more sugar, and a drop more white of egg, and the 
 juice ot half a lemon ; beat it well. It must not run. 
 
ices. 305) 
 
 1231. almond icing fob bride cakes. 
 
 The whites of six eggs, a pound and a half of double refined sugar, 
 and a pound of Jordan almonds blanched and pounded with a little 
 rose water, mix altogether, and whisk it well for an hour or two, lay 
 it oyer the cake and put it in the oven. 
 
 1232. ICING FOR TAUTS. 
 
 Beat the yolk of an egg and some melted butter well together, 
 wash the tarts with a feather, and sift sugar over as you put them 
 into the oven, or beat white of egg,, wash the paste, and sift some 
 white sugar. 
 
 1233. — BROWN BREAD ICE. 
 
 One pint of cream, sweeten with thick syrup, a little grating of 
 nutmeg, a glass of jelly, have ready some very fine bread crumbs 
 made from brown bread four days old, to be sprinkled by degrees 
 into the cream when about half frozen, add jelly if you have it. 
 
 1234. — GINGER CREAM ICE. 
 
 Make half a pint of good custard, boiling an ounce of the best 
 ground ginger, sweeten it, add half a pint of cream, a little lemon 
 juice, put into it when half frozen two ounces of preserved ginger 
 cut in small dice ; go on as for former ices. 
 
 1235. — CURRANT, BLACK, WATER ICE. 
 
 Put one large spoonful of black currant jelly into a basin, add the 
 juice of two lemons, a gill of syrup, and half a pint of water, strain it 
 and freeze it rich. 
 
 1236. — CURRANT ICES. 
 
 Squeeze some picked currants through a sieve, add to the juice 
 some clarified sugar, boiled to a very high degree, and, if you like, 
 squeeze in the juice of four lemons — it will make it more mellow ; 
 strain them again through the sieve, put them in the icing pot, and 
 finish the same as all other ices. 
 
 1237. — PINE APPLE CREAM ICE. 
 
 Use the syrup, and when getting thick add some small pieces of 
 pine, cut in dice, all the other process as for former creams. 
 
 1238. — FRESH STRAWBERRY ICE OF CREAM. 
 
 If for a quart mould rub through four or five ounces of the scarlet 
 strawberries into a clean basin, sweeten it with some good thick 
 syrup, the juice of a lemon, and half a pint of cream, a glass of clear 
 Jelly if you have it, in dissolved isinglass; in freezing work it well 
 and repeatedly with your spoon, when it begins to thicken and; stick 
 
310 ices. 
 
 to the sides of the freezer, do n»t let it be too hard before you put 
 it into your mould, and colour it, if not a good colour, with, prepared 
 colouring; paper the top and bottom of your moulds, bring. them in. 
 small ice and plenty of salt, and let them remain until dessert is 
 called ; wash well the moulds from the salt and water as the least 
 drop will spoil your ices ; cut off the projecting top and bottom 
 before you dish them. 
 
 1239. — VANILLA CREAM ICE. 
 
 Boil a stick of vanilla in milk .and sugar, break eight yolks of eggs, 
 and make a good thick custard of the boiled milk and vanilla, strain 
 it through a fine sieve, when cold add a gill of cream and the juice 
 of a lemon, a glass of jelly if you have it ; the last as the former ices. 
 
 1240. — CEDRAT ICES. 
 
 Take a piece of lump sugar, and have a fresh and sound cedrat 
 ■which you must grate over a piece of paper on a lump of sugar,- 
 scraping with a knife what sticks upon the sugar of the skin 
 of the cedrat, when you have thus taken off the outer rind of the 
 cedrat by grating it on the sugar, take a little clarified sugar boiled 
 very fine, which add to the grating of the cedrat with what quantity 
 of lemon juice you think requisite for the quantity of ices you intend 
 making and a little water, pour the whole through a sieve, then ice 
 it, and finish the same as all other ices. 
 
 1241. — CEDRAT ICE WATER. 
 
 Take four ounces of essence of cedrat, put it into a basin and add 
 to it the juice of three lemons, two gills of syrup, and half a pint of 
 water, then pass it through a sieve and freeze rich ; and if you would 
 have it in the shape of a cedrat, after you have filled your mould 
 close it well, and cover it with half a sheet of brown paper before 
 yow put it into the ice. 
 
 3242. — cherry ice. 
 
 Stone two pounds of ripe cherries, bruise and set them on the fire 
 with a little water and half a pound of sugar, when they have 
 boiled pass them through a hair sieve into an earthen pan, pound a 
 handful of the kernels, put them in a basin with the juice of two 
 lemons, add to the cherries a pound of sugar au petit lisse, and 
 strain on them the lemon juice and kernels, mix the whole together 
 and put it into a sorbetiere with pounded ice, work the cherries up 
 ■with it well until it has set, then place it in glasses. 
 
 1243. CURRANTS TO ICE., 
 
 Take fresh currants in bunches, and have ready some white of 
 egg well beaten, dip them in, lay them abroad, sift double refined 
 sugar over them thick, and dry them in a stove or oven. 
 
ICES. 311 
 
 1244.-7«ITRRANT ICE CREAM. 
 
 Put one large spoonful and a half of currant jelly into a basin •with 
 half a gill of syrup, squeeze in one lemon and a half, add a pint of 
 cream and a little cochineal, then pass it through a sieve and finish in 
 the general way. 
 
 1245. CURRANT ICES. 
 
 Take some* picked currants and squeeze them through a sieve, 
 then take some clarified sugar boiled to a high degree, add it to your 
 currant juiGe, and if you like squeeze the juice of four lemons in it, 
 which will make it more mellow, strain it through a sieve again, put 
 then in an icing pot ; finish the same as all other ices. 
 
 1246. WATER ICES GENERALLY. 
 
 If made from jams you must rub them through a sieve, adding 
 thick boiled syrup, and lemon juice, and some jelly, and colouring if 
 for pink, and the white of an egg whipt up before you add it to the 
 best half of a pint of spring watery if of jam, you must have a good 
 pint of mixture in all to make a quart mould ; if from fruits with 
 syrup you will not require water. 
 
 1247- CURRANT FRESH "WATER ICE. 
 
 Pass through a sieve a pint of currants, then add to them four 
 ounces of powdered sugar and one pint of water, strain it and freeze 
 it rich. 
 
 1248. RED CURRANT WATER ICE. 
 
 ' Use either the syrup from currants, or currant jelly dissolved, and 
 half a pint of barley water, always cold, use a little lemon juice, the 
 rest as for former ices. 
 
 1249. WHITE CURRANT WATER ICE. 
 
 Press half a pint of juice from the white currants, strain them, add 
 sufficient thick syrup to sweeten it, and a cup of barley water, or 
 spring water, beat up the white of an egg, and put into it a glass 
 of jelly if you have it, a little boiled isinglass, and freeze as before ; 
 these ices will, both pink and white, look well together. 
 
 1250. LEMON WATER ICE. 
 
 Eub on sugar the clear rinds of lemons, squeeze the juioe of 
 twelve lemons, strain them, boil the sugar into a strong thick syrup, 
 add to the juice half a pint of water, or good barley water, sweeten it 
 •with your syrup, add the white of an egg and jelly. 
 
 1251. OKANGE "WATER ICE. 
 
 Proceed exactly as before, only add a glass of brandy or Madeira ; 
 or without 
 
31#. JE.LLIJSS. 
 
 1252. — FINE COCHINEAL COLOURING. 
 
 Pound one ounce of cochineal in one pint of water, one ounce of 
 roach alum, one ounce of cream of tartar, when all are boiled add 
 one ounce of salts of wormwood, and the juice of three lemons, and 
 two gills of spirits of wine. 
 
 JELLIES. , 
 
 1253.— aspic. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal, a knuckle of ham, a thick slice of beef, 
 and if they will not make your jelly stiff enough add two calves' feet 
 or some swards of bacon rasped; put them into a saucepan with a 
 pint of rich stock, and sweat it over a stove until reduced to glaze, 
 then moisten it with stock, boil and skim it well. Put to it two 
 onions, two carrots, salt, parsley, scaUions, four cloves, two bay 
 leaves, and a clove of garlick ; let the whole stew for seven hours, 
 .then; strain off the liquor or consomme, break four eggs into a 
 stewpan, and put to them the consomme when cold, the juice of two 
 lemons, and a little tarragon, and beat it with a whisk over the fire 
 till nearly boiling; and when it does so remove your stewpap to a 
 smaller fire, and place fire on the lid for half an hour, then pass it 
 . through a wet napkin doubled; if the jelly is not sufficiently clear, 
 clarify it a second time. Put a layer of this jelly an inch thick at 
 the bottom of an aspic mould, garnish it with truffles, white of eggg, 
 sprigs of parsley, according to your taste, pour in another half inch 
 of the jelly while liquid with great care so as not to discompose your 
 garnish, then put either calfs brains, breast of fowls, veal, sweetbreads, 
 or game ; be sure to lay whatever you use as smooth as possible, then 
 fill up your mould with jelly and let it he till set; when wanted, 
 dip your mould in hot water an instant, place your dish on the top, 
 and turn it over. 
 
 1254.— ASPIC JELLY. 
 
 Boil a neat's foot the same as calves' feet ; when boiled and 
 cleaned as in No. 1264, instead of spices use beet-roots, sweet herbsj 
 parsley, and onions, and some good second stock, use eggs likewise, 
 season with salt, pepper, a dust of sugar, tarragon vinegar, and 
 common vinegar, boil and run it through a jelly bag as before. 
 
 1255. — CLEAK APPLE JELLY. 
 
 Pare and core five dozen of lemon pippins, put them in a pan 
 with as much water as will cover them, let them boil gently until 
 soft, let them get cold, then strain them through a jelly bag,..put the 
 juice in your preserving-pan, and to each pint of juice put one pound 
 of fine sugar and the peel of two lemons, then boil it until it is reduced 
 to the stiffness of calves' foot jelly, skim it well, add the juice of a 
 lemon; it should be made in September, the flavour of the apple is 
 better, if you cannot get the pippin any acid apple will do , . , ■■> 
 
JELLIES. 313 
 
 1256. — APPIE JELLY — ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Peel any kind of sharp apples, cut them in slices and wash them 
 in several waters, then boil them in a covered pot with a good deal of 
 water until it is much reduced, and becomes glutinous, strain it 
 through a thin cloth, measure it, and refine an equal quantity of 
 clarified sugar to the twelfth degree, and pour the apples into it, 
 boil it up and skim it, boil again until it quits the spoon clear by 
 dropping out of it. 
 
 1257. — APPLE JELLY. 
 
 Pick and wipe twenty golden pippins, boil them until tender in a 
 pint and a half of spring water, strain off the liquor, put a pound of 
 white sugar to every pint, add a little grated orange or lemon peel to 
 flavour it, and boil to a jelly. 
 
 1258. TO MAKE RED APPLES IN JELLY. 
 
 • Take a quantity of fine apples, pare and core them, throwing them 
 into water as you do them, put them into a preserving pan, they 
 must not be close enough to touch, half cover ithem with water, let 
 them coddle, turning them when the lower side is done, add to the 
 water a little pounded cochineal, and boil it with the fruit ; when 
 they are done tender lay them upon the dish upon which you are 
 going to serve them-, with the stalks downwards; make a rich jelly 
 with the loaf sugar, boil in it the juice of a lemon, and the thin rind. 
 When it comes to a jelly let it get cold, then lay it among and over 
 the apples, the lemon peel may be cut in strips and laid across the 
 apples. It is necessary to observe that the colour of the apples should 
 be a bright red from the first, and kept so, but great care must be 
 taken not to use too much cochineal, or it wifl impart to the syrup a 
 bitter flavour. 
 
 1259. AN APPLE JLELY FOR PRESERVING APRICOTS. 
 
 If in summer take any quantity of codlins, pare, quarter, and core 
 them, put them into a stewpan, barely cover them with water and 
 boil very rapidly ; as soon as the fruit is in a mash add a quart of 
 water, boil for thirty minutes, and then run it through a jelly-bag. 
 
 Golden rennets or winter pippins should be used if this jelly is 
 made in the autumn ; it will do for any sort of sweet meat. 
 
 1260. — APRICOTS IN JELLY. 
 
 The fruit must be pared very thin and stoned, take the weight as 
 before, and then sift over an equal quantity of finely powdered white 
 sugar ; let it remain in the sugar until the following day, then boil 
 very gently until clear, put them into a bowl and pour the syrup over 
 them; let them remain twenty-four hours, make a quart of codlin- 
 liquor by boilings straining, and the addition of a pound of white, 
 sugar, to this pour the syrup from the apricots, boil it quickly until 
 it jellies, then put the fruit into it, boil it once only, skim it 
 thoroughly, and put it into small jars. ••■'.. 
 
314 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 1261. APKICOT JELLS'. 
 
 Take eighteen fine apricots, Jet them be of a nice red colour, 
 Stone them, and cut them in pieces into some syrup, usually made 
 with twelve ounces of sugar, but for apricot jelly it should be rather 
 more liquid than for other jellies ; when the fruit is done, put it 
 into a napkin .to express out all the juke you possibly can, which 
 y»u must add to the syrup in which the apricots have been done, 
 and which has been previously strained through a silk sieve, and 
 after having mixed with it a proper quantity of isinglass to thicken 
 it, finish the same as all other, jellies. 
 
 1262. — BARBEUEY XELLY. 
 
 Put a pint of barberries into a stewpan with boiling water, cover 
 close and let it stand till nearly cold, set on the fire some clarified 
 sugar with a little water, making a quart altogether, when it begins 
 to boil skim it well, put in the harberries, let them boil an hour, 
 squeeze the juice of three lemons through a sieve into a basin, to 
 this pass the liquor from the barberries, ,and then the isinglass. 
 
 1263. — colotjking'pob jellies, cakes, etc. 
 
 For a beautiful red boil fifteen grains of cochineal in the finest 
 powder with a dram and a half of cream of tartar in half a pint of 
 water, very slowly, half an hour; add in boning a bit of alum, the 
 the size of a pea, or use beetroot sliced, and some liquor poured over. 
 
 For white use almonds finely powdered, with a little drop of water, 
 or use cream. 
 
 For yellow, yelks of eggs, or a hit -of saffron Steeped in the liquor 
 and squeezed. 
 
 For green, pound spinach leaves or beet leaves, express the juice, 
 and boil a tea-cupful in a saucepan of water to take off the rawness. 
 
 1264. — calves' opoox jelly. 
 
 Fot one mould chop up two calves' feet, put'them on in about fout 
 quarts of water to boil, this should be done the day before you 
 require the jelly, keep it well skimmed and boil gently all day, it 
 ■frill then be reduced to about two quarts ; the next morning take 
 off all the grease and wash the top with a little warm water, then 
 rince it with cold, place the stock in the proper size stewpan to 
 allow it to boil well, then put in a paring of lemon, without any 
 ■white adhering to it, two or three cloves, a piece of cinnamon, a few 
 bruised 'Coriander seeds, and a bay leaf, let it boil for a few minutes 
 then take it off to get cool. Have ready broken in a basin six or 
 eight whites of eggs end the shells, chop them up together, squeeze 
 five or six lemons, strain the juice, add sugar to the whites of eggs 
 and a glass of cold water, then add the lemon juice; add ail thiB 
 well mixed into the calves' foot stock, place it on your fire and let it 
 rise to the top of your stewpan, be careful it does not go over, then 
 take it off the fire, place on the cover and put some hot coals upon 
 
JELLIES. 315 
 
 it, let it stand a few minutes, then run it repeatedly through the 
 jelly bag until beautifully bright and clear ; flavour it with whatimay 
 be required. 
 
 1265. CLEAR JELLY AFTER SEVERAL DAYS. 
 
 Just melt and whip the same, it will be a pure white, do not let 
 it get too stiff before you put it into your mould, bat if you require 
 a mosaic jelly let this whipping get quite firm. 
 
 1266.— CURRANT JELLY. 
 
 Set on the fire in a sugar-pan a pint of smooth clarified sugar, 
 wben it boils put in a quart of picked red currants, in ■which let them 
 boil for half an hour, be careful to skim them well, and at times add 
 a little cold water to raise the scum ; when boiled enough run the 
 liquor through a sieve into a basin in which you have squeezed three 
 lemons, then put in some isinglass and set your jelly in a mould in 
 ice as usual. 
 
 1267. CURRANT JELLY (eEd). 
 
 Strip off the currants, put them in a jar, set the jar in a kettle of 
 tot water, let it boil an hour, then throw the currants and juice into 
 a fine lawn sieve, press out all the juice, and to every pint of juice 
 put a pound of double refined sugar, pat them in a preserving pan, 
 set it over a charcoal fire and keep it stirring till it is in a jelly, which 
 you will know by taking a little out to cool, be careful to take off the 
 scum as it rises, and when it is jellied and very clear pour it into 
 glasses, when cold cut round pieces of paper that will just cover the 
 jelly, dipped in brandy, put white paper over the glasses, twisting 
 round the top. 
 
 1268. CURRANT JELLY ( WHITE). 
 
 Take the seeds from a dozen pounds of fine white currants, and 
 put them into ten pounds of clarified sugar, boiled to grande Hsse, 
 take your saucepan from the fire, stir the jelly lightly witih a 
 skimmer, then boil it up twioe, after which pass it through a sieve ; 
 replace it over the fire, taking care to keep the sides of the pan 
 clean with a sponge, so that the jelly does not become coloured by 
 the heat in boiling, skim it, and finish the same as the red jelly. 
 
 1269. CURRANT JELLY (BLACK). 
 
 Make it the same way as the red currant jelly, only with this 
 difference, that you may use very coarse sugar. 
 
 1270. CURRANT JELLY (RED OR WHITE.) 
 
 Strip your fruit, and put them into your preserving-pan with a little 
 water when all the juice is extracted, then strain oif the liquor, and 
 to every pint use one pound of lump sugar into the syrup, simmer it 
 
316 JKLLIES. 
 
 gently, keeping it well skimmed until quite clear, then boil it until 
 it wiU quickly jelly upon a plate, then till your jars. 
 
 1271. CHERRY JELLY. 
 
 Having taken the stalks and stones from two pounds of dark red 
 fleshy cherries put them in a basin, pound the kernels, and squeeze 
 the juice of four lemons through a tammy, mash the cherries with a 
 wooden spoon, putting first in half a pot of currant jelly, then the 
 kernels, lastly the lemon juice, mix these together well, then having 
 boiled and skimmed a pint of clarified sugar and isinglass put the 
 cherries into a jelly bag, pour the sugar, &c. over them, run it through 
 till quite clear ; if not sufficiently sweet add more sugar, if to the 
 contrary add more lemon juice, wet the mould, set it in ice, and £11 
 it with the jelly, do not turn it out till the last minute. 
 
 1272. — DAMSON JELLY„ 
 
 To eight pounds of damsons put eight pounds of fine sugar and 
 half a pint of water, boil them for half an hour over a gentle fire till 
 the skins break, then take them off and set them by for an hour, set 
 them off the fire again for half an hour more, set them on the fire 
 again for half an hour, set them by for the same time, do the same a 
 third time, while they stand off the fire put a weight upon them to 
 keep them under the syrup; the last time you must boil them till you 
 perceive they are of a very high colour in the part where the skin is 
 broken, then take them off, set them by to cool, and when they are 
 cold drain off the syrup, and make the jelly in the following manner. 
 
 Boil a good quantity of green apples, green gooseberries, and 
 quince cores to a mash, then strain them through a sieve, take an 
 equal quantity of this jelly and the former syrup, and boil them over 
 a gentle fire together till they jelly, skim it well, and while it is hot 
 put it into glasses or pots. 
 
 1273. JELLIES FOB ENTREMETS. 
 
 ' Hartshorn, calves' feet, and isinglass are the usual materials used 
 to coagulate sweet jellies, of these three the latter is the best, as 
 when properly clarified it is the clearest, and has no unpleasant 
 flavour. 
 
 Jellies are made of all sorts of fruits, and sometimes of flowers and 
 liqueurs; for directions to prepare them see the various articles of 
 which they are composed. 
 
 1174. JELLY, TO KEEP. 
 
 Take a leg of beef and two shins, cut in pieces a knuckle of veal, 
 chop it all to pieces, one or two old cocks and hens skinned, and two 
 calves' feet, put all these into ten quarts of water, and boil them 
 down to a strong jelly, skim it well, add some salt and run it through 
 a jelly bag till it is quite clear. 
 
JELLIES. 317 
 
 1275. — JELLY TO COVER COLD FISH 
 
 Take a maid, clean it, and put it into three quarts of water, with 
 a calf's foot, or cow-heel, a stick of horse-radish, an onion, three 
 blades of mace, some white pepper, a bit of lemon peel, and a slice 
 of lean gammon of bacon, let it stew till it will jelly, then strain it off, 
 when cold remove every bit of fat, take it up from the sediment and 
 boil it with a glass of sherry, the whites of five eggs, and a bit of 
 lemon, boil without stirring it, and after a few minutes set it by to 
 stand for half an hour, and strain it through a bag or sieve, with a 
 napkin in it, when cold cover the fish with it. 
 
 1276. JELLY SAVOURY TO PUT OVER COLD PTES. 
 
 It should be made of a small bare knuckle, or leg, or shoulder of 
 veal, or a piece of scrag of mutton ; or if it is made of fowls, or 
 or rabbits, the carcasses, necks, or heads, added to any piece of meat, 
 will be sufficient, observing to give consistence by Cow-heel or 
 shanks of mutton, put the meat with a slice of ham, or bacon, a 
 bundle of different herbs, two blades of mace, an onion or two, a 
 small bit of lemon peel, and a tea-spoonful of Jamaica pepper bruised, 
 and the same quantity of whole pepper, and three pints of water, 
 into a stewpan that shuts very close, when it boils skim it well, and 
 let it simmer slowly till quite strong, then strain it, and when cold 
 take off all the fat you possibly can with a spoon, and then to remove 
 every particle of grease lay a clean piece of cap or blotting paper on 
 it, if when it is cold it is not clear boil it a few minutes, with the 
 whites of two eggs, but do not add the sediment, and pour it through 
 a nice sieve, with a napkin in it, which should be previously dipped 
 in hot water, to prevent waste. 
 
 1277- — LEMON JELLY. 
 
 Set a pint and a half of clarified sugar on the fire, and dilute it 
 with a little water, when it boils and has been well skimmed put in 
 two ounces of clarified isinglass with a little lemon peel cut very thin; 
 let these boil till you have squeezed through a sieve into a basin the 
 juice of six lemons, then pass your sugar and isinglass to it, and set 
 it in a mould as any other jelly, when turned out, garnish it with 
 dried jellies. 
 
 1278. MOSAIC JELLY. 
 
 This is made from three colours pu* into your mould by little 
 pieces at a time, differing the colours each time, pink, white, and 
 yellow, colour a little of your jelly with cochineal, the white as clear 
 jelly; when your mould is nearly full have ready some jelly melted 
 but not warm and fill up the mould. 
 
 1279. — ORANGE JELLY. 
 
 Boil a neat's foot in two quarts of water all day, then strain it off 
 and put it to get cold, take off the grease well and reduce, the stock 
 
318 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 to less than half a pint, have the peels of twelve oranges rubbed 
 apon lump sugar, getting off all the colour from the oranges* put 
 yaw foot, stock in a. stewpan and about one ounce qf isinglass,, and 
 a little water, boil all, then add your sugar you have rubbed into it, 
 squeeze the twelve oranges with one Seville and two lemons, strain 
 it to the isinglass, when it has boiled strain it through a tammy info 
 a basin, keeping it stirring every now and then, add a good gljiss, of 
 French brandy and a glass, of white wine ;. when nearly set put it 
 into your mould. 
 
 1280. — FOR A SMALL PINT MOULD OF ORANGE JELLY. 
 
 One ounce and a half of isinglass boiled in a pint of water, 
 .squeeze six China oranges and two Seville, and the juice of two 
 lemons, sweeten to your taste, then boil the whole together with a 
 little of the peel, strain it through a fine sieve, let it stand till cold; 
 before you pat it in your mould add a few spoonfuls of brandy. 
 
 1281. — RASPBERRY JELLY. 
 
 Take two thirds of raspberries and one third of red currants, pick 
 them, press the juice through a sieve into a jar, cover and place it 
 in a cellar, or any other cool place for three days, at the end of that 
 time raise the thick skin formed on the top, and pour the juice into 
 another vessel, weigh it, and put it with half the quantity of sugar 
 into a preserving pan ; set it on the fire, a great deal of scum will 
 rise at first, which must all be taken off, leave it on the fire for an 
 hour, then pour a few drops on a cold plate, if it cools of the proper 
 consistence for jellies take it from the fire, and whilst hot pour it 
 into pots. Let the jelly be quite cold before covered. 
 
 1282. RASPBERRY VINEGAR, SYRUP OF. 
 
 . Take a large wide-mouth bottle,, pour into it two quarts of the 
 best vinegar, and as many picked raspberries as the bottle will hold, 
 taking care that the vinegar does come above them ; let these stand 
 covered for a week, at the end of that time pour both vinegar and 
 raspberries on to a silk sieve, pressing the latter lightly that the juice 
 may run through with the vinegar, when perfectly clear weigh it, and 
 put double its weight of refined sugar crushed, pour the vinegar in, 
 close the matrass, and set it in a moderately heated bain marie ; as 
 soonas the sugar is dissolved let the fire go out gradually, and when 
 the syrup is cold bottle it. The corks should be sealed to exclude the 
 "3,\t entirely. 
 
 1283. ROSE JELLY. 
 
 Make a clear apple jelly, colour it with cochineal infused in 
 double distilled rose-water, and just before the last boiling put in 
 half a glass of the best double'distilled rose-water. 
 
 1284.— RATAFJA WITHOUT SUGAR OR SYRUP. 
 
 Press the juice from some cherries into a pan, and leave it a 
 
MARMALADES. 319 
 
 quarter of an hour, then, put it into a large bottle with the kernels, 
 and also some apricot kernels ; to this add, if you wish, the ratafia 
 deep-coloured, the juke of two or three pounds of black cherries, put 
 to jour juice a haM or third of the best brandy, and then bottle it, 
 and when the fermentation has ceased cork the bottles ; if the air is 
 excluded this ratafia will keep years. 
 
 1285. ETJM JELLY. 
 
 To a quart bottle of common white wine add a pound of lump 
 sugar reduced to syrup and clarified, then, take an ounce of isinglass, 
 dissolve it thoroughly, strain it through a sieve and mix it with the 
 syrup milk warm, when this mixture is nearly cold pour it into 
 the white, wine, stir it well so as to mix it completely, then add 
 a spoonful or more according to the strength yo-u desire of old 
 Jamaica rum, stir it and pour it into a mould, or glasses if intended 
 to hand round for evening parties. 
 
 MARMALADES. 
 
 1386. MARMALADE. 
 
 Marmalade may be composed almost of any fruit, the best however 
 for this purpose are apricots, peaches,, oranges,, quinces, eggs, plums, 
 apples, &c.,, they are usually made by boiling the fruit and sugar 
 together to a kind of pulp, "stirring them constantly whilst on the 
 fire, it is kept in pots which must mot be covered till the marmalade 
 is quite cold, the proportion of sugar is half a pound to each pound 
 of fruit. 
 
 1287- — MARMALADE OP APPLES. 
 
 Scalds apples until they will pulp from the core, then take in large 
 lumps the same quantity of sugar as apple ; damp the sugar in water, 
 then boil them, keeping' it' well skimmed, boil it until it is a thick 
 syrup, then put it to the pulped apple, boil it over a quick fire for 
 about a quarter of an hour, add the grating of one lemon and six 
 ©loves, but take out the cloves again, fill your jars. 
 
 1288. MARMALADE TRANSPARENT. 
 
 Select very pale . Seville oranges, cut them into quarters, and 
 remove the pulp ; put it into a basin and take away all skin and 
 seeds. Soak all night the peels in a little salt and water, then boil 
 them in a good quantity of spring water till tender ; cut them in 
 very thin slices and add them to the puTps. To every pound of 
 marmalade add one and a half pounds of double refined sugar finely 
 sifted, and boil them together gently for twenty minutes. If it is 
 not sufficiently clear,, boil or simmer for five or six minutes longer ; 
 keep stirring gently all the time, taking care not to hreak the slices. 
 When cold put it into jelly or sweetmeat glasses, and tie down 
 with brandied paper. 
 
320 MARMALADES. 
 
 1289. — APPLE MARMALADE. 
 
 Boil some pippins until they begin to get tender, then put them 
 into cold water, pare and core them, squeeze the pulp through a 
 sieve, and put it over the fire, letting it remain till it becomes very 
 thick, then weigh an equal quantity of fine sugar, boil till the sugar 
 arises in sparkles which cluster together, put the marmalade to it, 
 and stir them well with a wooden spoon till the apples begin to 
 boil, then take it off, and when a little cool put it into pots, but do 
 not cover them till quite cold. 
 
 1290. — APPLE MARMALADE — PETITS GATEAUX. 
 
 Make a marmalade of twenty-four apples in the usual way with a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pot of apricots, and 
 the zest of a lemon shred fine, make your paste, and proceed as 
 directed for petits gateaux glacees of apricots, sprinkle them when 
 marked with powdered sugar, bake them in a moderate open, and 
 finish them. 
 
 1291. APRICOT MARMALADE. 
 
 Take some fine apricots, and choose from amongst them those 
 which are of the deepest yellow and the ripest, they must not be too 
 ripe; peel them, take out the stones, and chop them up, weigh 
 twelve pounds of them, and put them into a preserving pan with 
 nine pounds of sugar, place your pan over a quick fire, and keep 
 your preparation constantly stirring with a long wooden spoon ; to 
 find out when the marmalade is sufficiently done let a few drops fall 
 into a glass of cold water, and if they do not spread in the water 
 your marmalade is ready to put into pots. 
 
 1292. APRICOT MARMALADE — PETITS GATEAUXFOURES. " 
 
 Roll out some puff paste very thin, and divide it into two equal 
 parts, each of which should be thirteen inches long and eight wide ; 
 moisten a baking tin to hold one of these layers, on which pour a 
 pot of apricot marmalade, and spread it of an equal thickness to 
 within half an inch of the edge of the paste, which moisten slightly. 
 Then roll the other layer round your rolling pin, and begin to place 
 it on the first, unrol it gradually and carefully, and thus cover the 
 ■whole of your marmalade ; press the edges of both together, dorez 
 the upper layer, and then with a knife mark a line across the middle, 
 taking care not to go so deep as to divide the paste; with equal care 
 mark three lines on each side and parallel to the' first, keeping them 
 at equal distances, say two inches and a quarter between every line. 
 Then mark it in the long way, so as to make twenty-four cakes all 
 over the same size, and bake it in a quick oven, and when the under 
 side is of a clear yellow you may take it out and glaze it; when your 
 gateaux are cold divide them according to the marks, which may be 
 varied to your taste, either lozenge, crescents, circles, &c. When of 
 the above-mentioned form, with the point of a knife mark on each 
 cake an ear of corn or any other design you may choose before 
 baking, take care in thus marking the paste to divide but not to cut. 
 it through. 
 
MARMALADES. 321 
 
 1293. BARBERRY MARMALADE. 
 
 Take three pounds of very ripe barberries, the same quantity of 
 sugar, and a pound of water ; put the water into a deep, broad, silver, 
 or copper pan, andf as you take the seeds out of the barberries, throw 
 the latter into water, then give them a few boilings over the fire; after 
 this put them into a sieve, and bruise them to extract the pulp, which 
 must again be put over the fire, until the moisture has entirely eva- 
 porated. This done, if the pan, in which you put your barberries at 
 first was of copper, pour the pulp, which was extracted from the fruit, 
 into an earthen vessel, to prevent the acid of the fruit, when heated, 
 from acting on the copper ; but if your vessel was silver, you may 
 safely put your pulp into it, when heated ; then pour upon the pulp 
 the sugar, which must be previously clarified and boiled au casse ; give 
 the whole a few boilings, stirring it well with a wooden spoon; then,, 
 pour your marmalade into pots. 
 
 1294. — CHERRY MARMALADE. 
 
 Boil two pounds of sugar with two glasses of water, skim it well 
 until, on shaking the skimmer after dipping it in the sugar, the latter 
 drops from it like icicles, then you may put in four pounds of cherries 
 picked and stoned ; boil them, and when the marmalade flows readily 
 take it from the fire and put it into pots. 
 
 1295. CURRANT MARMALADE. 
 
 Strip your currants off from the bunches, and soak them in boiling 
 water until they break, then take them off the fire and lay them on 
 a sieve to drain, and when they are cold pass them through the same 
 sieve to clear off the seeds, and then dry them over the fire till you 
 bring your sugar to the fifth degree of boiling, allowing as much 
 sugar as fruit, mix all well together, simmer it over the fire some 
 time, then put the marmalade into pots. 
 
 1296. ORANGE MARMALADE. 
 
 Blanch the rinds of fifteen oranges without any of the white till 
 soft, then soak them in cold water for a few minutes, drain and 
 pound them to a paste, which Tub through a sieve ; ascertain its 
 weight, and for each pound allow a pound and a half of sugar ; clarify 
 and boil the sugar till the bubbles rise strongly to the surface; put 
 in the paste and boil, them together stirring continually till the mar- 
 malade is done. To know when the marmalade is fit to turn out and 
 be potted take some up between your thumb and finger, and if on 
 opening them it draws out like a thread it is done. 
 
 1297. — ORANGE MARMALADE. 
 
 Take eight Seville oranges, three lemons, pare them very thin} 
 take out all the juice and pulp, lay the peels in twenty-four hours, 
 changing them once or twice, lay them on a coarse cloth to drain, 
 
 T 
 
32 2 BLANCMANGES. 
 
 then take the weight of juice, pulp, and peel in lump sugar ; boil the 
 whole a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. The peel should be 
 cut in long narrow strips, he careful not to leave any seeds or white 
 part of the rind. 
 
 1298. — QUINCE MARMALADE. 
 
 Gather the fruit when fully ripe and of a fine yellow; pare, 
 quarter, and core it, put the quinces into a saucepan with a little 
 water, set them on the fire until they are quite soft, then take them 
 out and lay them on a sieve to drain ; rub them through, weigh, the 
 pulp, boil an equal quantity of sugar to petit casse, then add the 
 jjulp ; stir them together over the fire until it will fell from the spooa 
 like a jelly. The marmalade is then fit to be put into pots, and when 
 cold cover them close. 
 
 1299. — BASPBEEEY MAEMALADE. 
 
 Take double the weight of raspberries to that of sugar ; rub the 
 fruit through a sieve and put the pulp into a saucepan, set it on 1he 
 fife and stir till it is reduced to half, then pour on the sugar previously 
 clarified and boiled to petit boule, stir it well in, put it on the fire, 
 give it a few boils and then pour it into pots. 
 
 BLANCMANGES. 
 
 1300. — BLANCMANGE. 
 
 In three pints of water put two ounces of isinglass ; let it boil for 
 thirty minutes, strain it into a pint and a half of cream, sweeten it, 
 and add a few Bitter almonds ; boil it up once let it settle, then turn 
 it into any mould you intend to use. 
 
 1301 . — BLANCMANGE. 
 
 Take one ounce of picked isinglass, boil it in a pint of water with 
 a bit of cinamon till it is melted, add three quarters of a pint of 
 Cream, two ounces of sweet almonds, six bitter ones blanched and 
 beaten, a bit of lemon peel ; sweeten it and stir it over the fire. When 
 it boils strain it and let it cool, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and 
 put into moulds. It may be garnished according to fancy. 
 
 1302. — MCE BLANCMANGE. ' 
 
 Take one pint of new milk, add to it two eggs well beaten, four 
 spoonfuls of ground rice, two spoonfuls of brandy, grate a little 
 nutmeg, sweeten it to your taste, boil it ; when near cold put it into 
 your mould, when quite cold turn it out, mix a little sugar, cream, and 
 nutmeg, and put round it in the dish; garnish with red currant jell)'. 
 
 1303. — BLANCMANGE EN SURPRISE. 
 
 Take the crumb from a rasped pain a cafe, without injuring the* 
 
KLAWCMA3SGES. 323 
 
 crust, which ice with powdered sugar and orange flower water ; place 
 it a minute in the oven or stove to dry, fill the inside with blanc- 
 mange, place it in a dish and cover it with firm blancmange in the 
 form of a pyramid v 
 
 1304. BLANCMANGE WITH PRESERVED ORANGE. 
 
 Fill the orange with blancmange ; when cold stick in long sticks 
 of citron like leaves. Pour blancmange in a dish and when cold 
 place the orange in the middle, and garnish with dried or preserved 
 fruit. 
 
 1305. BLANCMANGE (HOT). 
 
 Blanch a pound of sweet almonds -with eight bitter almonds, pound 
 them very fine, and put them into a stewpan,' then put the same 
 quantity of cream, with a quarter more into another stewpan, and 
 boil it with some sugar, and when it boils put in your almonds ; mix 
 them", well together, and then pass them through a boiling cloth a 
 quarter of an hour before you wish to serve it ; put your preparation 
 over the fire, turning it the same as a bouilli; reduce it, and continue 
 turning until it is thick and keeps to the spoon, Uien pour it into 
 a silver dish, and serve. 
 
 1306. BLANCMANGE, BOTCH. 
 
 Put a pint of cleared calves' foot jelly into a stewpan, mix with 
 it the yolks of six eggs, set it over a fire, and whisk till it begins to 
 boil, then set the pan in cold water, and stir the mixture till nearly 
 cold to prevent it from curdling, and when it begins to thicken fill 
 the moulds. 
 
 1307. BLANCMANGE A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 Blanch one pound of sweet and a score of bitter almonds, drain 
 them on a sieve, and afterwards dry them by rubbing them in a 
 napkin, pound them in a mortar, continually moistening them with 
 half a tea-spoonful of water at a time, to prevent their oiling. When 
 they are pounded as fine as possible take them out of the mortar, 
 and put them into a pan, then with a silver spoon beat up your 
 almonds gradually ™*h five glasses of filtered water; after this 
 spread a napkin over an oval dish, and put your almonds upon it, 
 then gather up the corners of your napkin, and wring it very tight 
 to press out all the milk from the almonds, then put into this milk 
 twelve ounces of crystallized sugar broken into small pieces. When 
 the sugar is dissolved pass the whole through a napkin, and then add 
 to it one ounce of clarified isinglass rather warmer than lukewarm, 
 and when the whole is well incorporated together pour it into your 
 mould; your mould should be previously put into ten pounds ol 
 pounded ice; when your blancmange is ready to serve, which will 
 be in two hours after it has been put into the mould, you must take 
 
 it out. 
 
 T2 
 
324 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC, 
 
 veky common disco- 
 very made by those 
 who preserve fruits, 
 &c, for family use, 
 and are not suffici- 
 ently versed in the art 
 of confectionery, is 
 that the preserve 
 either ferments, grows 
 ' mouldy, or becomes candied. 
 
 These three effects arise from 
 three separate causes. The first 
 from insufficient boiling; the se- 
 cond from, being kept in a damp 
 place, assisted in some degree by 
 the first cause ; and the third from 
 too quick and too long boiling. 
 
 Preserves of all kinds should.be 
 kept entirely secluded from the air, 
 and in a dry place. In ranging them on the 
 shelves of a store-closet, they should not be 
 suffered to come in contact with the wall. Mois- 
 ture in winter and spring exudes from some of 
 the driest walls, and preserves invariably imbibe 
 it, both in dampness and taste. It is necessary 
 occasionally to look at them, and if they have 
 been attacked by mould, boil them up gently 
 again. To prevent all risks it is always as well to lay a brandy paper 
 over the fruit before tying down. This may be renewed in the spring. 
 Fruit jellies are made in the ratio of a quart of fruit to two pounds 
 of sugar. - They must not be quick boiled, nor very long. Practice 
 and a general discretion wil^be found the best guides to regulate the 
 exact time which necessarily must be affected, more or less, by local 
 causes. 
 
 If you do not possess a drying-stove, the fruit may be dried in the 
 sun on flagstones, taking care that insects are not suffered to approach, 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 325 
 
 it — a garden-glass to cover the preserve will keep them off. If dried 
 in an oven, it must be of gentle warmth, and they must be suffered 
 only to be done slowly. 
 
 SUGAR. 
 
 DIFFERENT DEGREES OF PREPARING SUOAR. 
 
 The various purposes to which sugar is applied require it to be in' 
 different states ; these are called degrees. They extend to the num- 
 ber of thirteen, and are named in the following order : — 
 
 Petit Eisse, or First degree. — Replace the clarified sugar in the 
 preserving- pan to boil gently, take a drop of it on the thumb, touch 
 it with the forefinger ; if on opening them it draws to a fine thread, 
 and in breaking forms two drops on each finger, it is at the right 
 point. 
 
 Lisse, Second degree. — A little more boiling brings it to this point., 
 when the thread will draw further before it breaks. 
 
 Petit Perle, Third degree. — At this point the thread may be draw 
 as far as the span will open without breaking. 
 
 Grand Perle, Fourth degree.*— On still increasing the boiling little 
 raised balls are formed on the surface of the sugar. 
 
 Petit Queue de Cochon, Fifth degree. — Take up some of the sugar 
 on a skimmer, and drop it on the rest, when it should form a slanting 
 streak on the surface. 
 
 Grande Queue de Cochon, Sixth degree. — Boil it yet a little longer; 
 the streak or tail is now larger, and it has reached this point. 
 
 Souffle, Seventh degree. — Take out a skimmerful of the sugar, blow 
 through it and small sparks of sugar will fly from it. 
 
 Petit Plume, Eighth degree. — The same proof as above ; the sparks 
 should be larger and stronger. 
 
 Grande Plume, Ninth degree. — Take the sugar in the skimmer as 
 before ; give it a shake, and if the sparks are large, and adhere toge- 
 ther on rising, it is at the right point. 
 
 Petit Boulet, Tenth degree. — Dip your fingers in cold water, and 
 then into the sugar instantly, and again into the water, when the 
 sugar will roll into a ball which will be supple when cold. 
 
 Gros Boulet, Eleventh degree. — At this point the ball or bullet will 
 be harder when cold than the last. 
 
 Casse, Twelfth degree. — Prove as above ; the bullet should crum- 
 ble between the fingers, and on biting will stick to the teeth. 
 
 Caramel, Thirteenth degree. — At this point it should snap clean 
 when bitten. This point is very difficult to attain, for in increasing 
 the height, the sugar is apt to burn, it is better therefore to try the 
 proof very frequently. 
 
 Another caramel is much used by the confectioner, and is of a 
 deep colour, it is made . by putting a little water to the sugar, and 
 boiling it without skimming or otherwise touching the sugar till of 
 the right colour, then take itoffi and use immediately. - , 
 
 If on preparing the sugar, you happen to miss the right point, add 
 a little cold water, and boil once more. 
 
326 cOjSfbctioxekt,- pre&ekveb fruits, etc. 
 
 Observations. The skimmer should never be left in the preserving- 
 pan after the sugar is clarified, nor after the scum is removed. 
 
 Be very careful not to stir or disturb the sugar, as that would 
 cause its diminution. 
 
 In boiling the sugar, particularly the two last degrees, the sugar is 
 continuously rising and falling,, and on falling leaves marks on the 
 side of the pan, which the heat of the fire would soon burn and 
 thereby spoil the whole of the sugar. To avoid this have by the 
 side of you a pan of cold water, and a sponge, upon which, wipe the 
 sides of the pan carefully the instant after the sugar has fallen. 
 
 1308. TO CXAKIFY STJGAK. 
 
 Take the quantity of fine white loaf sugar you intend to clarify, 
 add to it of very clean warm water half a pint for every pound; when 
 dissolved add to it the white of one or two eggs — as the quantity 
 may require — well whipped, put it on the fire, and when it comes to 
 a boil pour into it an ordinary tea-cupful of cold water ; on its rising 
 again to a boil remove it and let it settle for twenty minutes, skim 
 the scum from the top, pour off the syrup into a clean vessel with 
 sufficient quickness to leave all the sediment at the bottom, and such 
 steadiness as to prevent any of the latter rising and mixing with it. 
 
 1309. &UGAB, TO CLARIFY. 
 
 Break into pieces four pounds of sugar ; into a preserving-pan put 
 the white of an egg, and a glass of clean spring water : mix them well 
 with a whisk ; add another, still whipping, until you have added two 
 quarts of water : when the pan is full of froth throw in the sugar, and 
 set it on the fire, being very careful to skim it every time the scum rises, 
 which will be the case as the sugar boils up. After a few boilings, the 
 sugar will rise so liigh as to run over the edges of the pan, to prevent 
 which throw on it a little cold water ; this will lower it instantly, and 
 give time for the skimming, for the scum should never be removed 
 while the sugar is bubbling. The cold water stills it, and that is the 
 moment to skim it. Repeat this operation carefully three or four 
 times, when a whitish light scum only will rise ; then take the pan 
 off, lay a napkin, slightly wetted, over a basin, and pour the sugar 
 through it. The scum thus taken off put into a china basin, and when 
 the sugar is clarified wash the pan and the skimmer with a glass of 
 water, which put to the scum, and set aside for more common purposes. 
 
 1310. — TO BOIL SUGAB FOB BASKETS OB SPINNING. 
 
 Fill quite full a pint and a half stewpan with pieces of lump 
 sugar, fill the stew-pan with clear spring water, let the water barely 
 cover the sugar, put it on to boil, skim it all the time that any scum 
 arises ; let it boil fast with the stew-pan flat upon the fire, not half- 
 way; it will not boil over if your fire is regular. Then get ready 
 a large basin of cold water, and when it has boiled some time 
 and begins to appear all froth or bladders do not go away and leave 
 it ; after having boiled so for some few minutes have a silver spoon 
 
CONFECTIONERY-, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 327 
 
 and dip it into it, and then into the water, if it is getting to a 
 substance pour in the juice of half a lemon, free from pips, still 
 keeping it Doiling on the fire, keep frequently trying it by dropping 
 and spinning a little in the cold water, and when it makes a crack- 
 ling noise and is very brittle take off your stewpan and pour it into a 
 cold stewpan ; work it well with your spoon, give it one more boil, 
 then take it off and hold the stewpan in cold water, stirring it all the 
 time, for a minute or two, it is then ready for a basket, or spinning, or 
 what you may require it for. It is but very little used now for second 
 courses ; at breakfasts and ball suppers it is generally introduced and 
 liked, but it too frequently answers the purpose of lock and key, 
 saying as much, " this must not be touched ;" many think it will do 
 again, and do not like to break through it. 
 
 1311. COLOURED SUGARS FOR ORNAMENTING. 
 
 Pound some sugar, and sift it through a coarse sieve, lay a little 
 upon a plate, pour into it a few drops of carmine, or prepared 
 cochineal, mixing it well in, then put it into your screen to dry, 
 stirring it frequently, keep it dry in a canister for use when required. 
 
 1312. GREEN COLOURED SUGAR. 
 
 Pound a few handfuls of fresh gathered young spinach, let it be 
 well washed and drained from the water, pound it well, stalks and 
 all, then twist it through a tammy cloth into a stewpan with a little 
 salt, put this liquor on the fire to simmer, and when it is well curdled 
 strain off the water from the curd upon the back of a lawn sieve, rub 
 it through the sieve on to a plate ; use some of this to some sifted 
 sugar, as for the former. 
 
 This is the wholesoine colouring in green pea soups or forcemeats. 
 
 1313. CARAMEL CONSERVE. 
 
 Clarify the quantity of sugar you may fequire, and boil it to 
 caramel ; have ready some cases of double paper, pour in your sugar 
 to the thickness of half an inch, and trace on its surface the forms 
 you wish it to have ; when cold break it according to those marks. 
 This conserve may be coloured and flavoured according to the fancy. 
 
 1314. SUGAR i. LA NEIGE. 
 
 Blanch a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, pound them to a 
 very fine paste in a marble mortar, with the whites of four eggs ; 
 when perfectly smooth add a pound of the best lump sugar (pow- 
 dered), and five more whites of eggs, stir all together well until of 
 such consistence that it may be kneaded without adhering to the 
 hands; divide into two parts, tinge one with a red colour either with 
 cochineal or bolus armena, perfume it with essential oil of roses or 
 bergamot. The other portion white must be thus flavoured ; grate the 
 rind of two fine lemons on a small piece of sugar, scrape off the surface, 
 and when pounded in a small mortar work it into the white paste, 
 
328 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 
 sprinkle your slab with powdered sugar, then roll out to about half 
 an inch in thickness the paste, cut it with a paste cutter about two 
 inches in diameter, arrange them on white paper which place on a 
 baking-tin, and put them into a moderate oven for three quarters 
 of an hour. Proceed the same with the coloured paste. Detach 
 them from the paper when cold. 
 
 1315. SUGAR PASTE. 
 
 One pound of flour, four ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, 
 a little salt, one egg, mix together with a little water. This is an 
 excellent paste for a second course dish. 
 
 1316. TO CANDY FRHIT. 
 
 Having prepared your fruit, steep it in the syrup, and lay it as 
 done in an open sieve, until the bottom is covered with one layer ; 
 steep this suddenly in scalding water. This will remove any syrup 
 which may cling to the fruit. Lay them aside on a napkin to drain, 
 and go on with the others. You will have ready, finely-powdered, 
 some of the best loaf sugar, sift this over the fruit until they are 
 white all over, without being too thickly encrusted ; lay them so as 
 not to touch each other on strainers or the reverse end of small 
 sieves ; place them in a gently-warmed oven, watch them carefully, 
 turning them until dry. The warmth of the oven must not be in- 
 creased, but must not abate until the fruit is quite dry. 
 
 1317. GREEN APRICOTS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 In your preserving-pan place a layer of green vine-leaves, then 
 a layer of apricots, then vine-leaves, and so on alternately until you 
 have completed the quantity you intend to preserve or the pan is 
 filled, seeing that the last layer is a thick one of leaves ; fill the pan 
 up with spring water and cover down close ; put the pan at such a 
 distance from the fire, that after heating slowly for five hours the 
 fruit shall have become soft without cracking ; drain off the water 
 and make a thin syrup of it, remove the fruit and inspect it to see 
 that none of them are cracked. When fruit and syrup are quite cold 
 return the fruit to the pan, add the syrup to it, and then place them 
 at such a distance from the fire that the apricots will green without 
 cracking ; it must be understood that they do not boil. Put'the fruit 
 and syrup into a pan for three days, drain off as much syrup as you 
 intend to use, to this add more sugar, and boil until it becomes a 
 rich thick syrup; drain off the rest of the syrup from the fruit, and 
 pour the thick over it when cold. The thin syrup remaining need not 
 be wasted, it will be found useful in sweetening pies, &c. - 
 
 1318. — APRICOTS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Choose fine apricots, pare them thinly and cleanly, and when done 
 take their weight, cut them in halves and remove the kernels, lay 
 them with the inside upwards, take the same weight of pounded loaf 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 329 
 
 sugar and strew over them; break the stones of the apricots and 
 blanch the kernels ; let the fruit lie in the sugar for twelve hours, 
 then put fruit, sugar, juice, and kernels into a preserving -pan, sim- 
 mer gently until clear; as the scum rises remove it ; remove the halves 
 of the apricots; as they become cold lay them in jars, and when the 
 whole of the fruit has been potted, pour equally over them the 
 syrup and the kernels. Cover the fruit with brandy paper and tie 
 tightly down. 
 
 1319. APRICOTS, TO DRY IN HALVES. 
 
 Take two pounds of apricots, pare them quite thin, halve them, 
 remove the stones and lay them in a dish ; powder over them one 
 pound and a half of fine white sugar, when the sugar has dissolved 
 place the fruit upon a stove, let them do gently, as each half becomes 
 tender remove it, and put it in a china bowl; when they are all done 
 and the syrup cooled a little, pour it over them. In a couple of days 
 remove the syrup, leaving a little only clinging to each half, turn 
 them in a day or so, and continue until they are quite dry, this may 
 be achieved more quickly by laying them in the sun or a very dry 
 place. They may be kept in boxes, with layers of white paper over 
 them. 
 
 1320. APRICOTS IN BRANDY. 
 
 Pick the fruit, wipe it, and then take the weight, put it into an 
 ice-pot, the lid of which fits very close ; add one-fourth of the weight 
 in finely-powdered white sugar, cover the fruit with the best brown 
 brandy, lay over the fruit a piece of foolscap paper doubled, cover 
 down the lid and place the ice-pot in a saucepan of hot water, 
 increasing the heat until the brandy is sufficiently hot to admit your 
 finger remaining in it, it must not however boil ; take out the fruit 
 when this takes place, put it into a jar and pour the brandy over it. 
 As soon as quite cold tie bladder-skin tightly over the jars. 
 
 Peaches may be preserved in the same way. 
 
 1321. APRICOTS, TO PRESERVE ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 Pare your apricots, and stone what you can whole, then give them 
 a slight boiling in water proportioned to the quantity of fruit, only 
 just enough ; then take the weight of the apricots in sugar, and 
 take the liquor in which they have boiled, and the sugar, and boil 
 it till it comes to a syrup, and give them a light boiling, taking off 
 the scum as it rises ; when the syrup jellies it is enough. Then take 
 up the apricots, and cover them with the jelly, put cut paper over 
 them, and lay them down when cold. 
 
 1322. APRICOTS, CONSERVE OF. 
 
 Take half ripe apricots and cut them into thin slices, dry them 
 over a gentle fire; to four ounces of fruit put one pound of. sugar 
 boiled to the degree la plume forte^ when the sugar is nearly cold 
 
330 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FBUITS, ETC. 
 
 put in the fruit, taking care to stir it well with a spoon that they 
 may be well incorporated. 
 
 1323. APPLES, GOLDEN PIPPINS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Take the rind of an orange and boil it very tender, lay it in cold 
 water for three days, take two dozen golden pippins, pare, core, and 
 quarter them, boil them to a strong jelly, and run it through a jelly 
 bag till it is clear. Take the same quantity of pippins, pare and core 
 them, and put three pounds of loaf sugar in a preserving-pan with a 
 pint and a half of spring water, let it boil, skim it well, and put in 
 •your pippins with the orange rind cut into long thin slips, then let 
 them boil fast till the sugar becomes thick and will almost candy ; 
 then put in a pint and a half of pippin jelly, and boil fast till the 
 jelly is clear, then squeeze in the juice of a fine lemon, give the whole 
 another boil, and put the pippins in pots or glasses with the orange 
 peel. Lemon peel may be used instead of orange, but then it must 
 only be boiled and not soaked. 
 
 1324. APPLES, DRIED. 
 
 The apples to be dried should be put seven or eight times in a 
 slightly warmed oven, flattening them by degrees as they grow 
 tender. The biffin is the apple mostly used, but the French crab or 
 any tart apple will "do. 
 
 1325. APPLES, TO BAKE WHOLE. 
 
 Put some sound apples into a pan with a little cloves, a small por- 
 tion of lemon peel, some brown sugar, a glass of red wine, or accord- 
 ing to the quantity of fruit ; put them into a quick oven and bake 
 them at least one hour. The sugar in quantity must be regulated 
 according to the number of apples. 
 
 1326. — apples (pippins) preserved in slices. 
 
 When the pippins are prepared, but not cored, cut them into 
 slices; take their equal weight of loaf sugar, put to the sugar a 
 sufficient quantity of water, let the sugar dissolve, skim it, and let it 
 boil again very high ; then put the fruit into the syrup. When they 
 are clear lay them in shallow glasses in which they are to be served, 
 then put into the syrup a candied orange peel cut into thin slices, 
 and lay them about the pippins ; cover them with syrup, and keep 
 them about the pippins. 
 
 1327- TO KEEP CODLING APPLES. 
 
 They should be gathered when a good size, not too large, and put 
 into an earthen pan, pour enough boiling water over them to just 
 cover them, and lay over the pan some fresh cabbage leaves, let them 
 remain by the fire until they would peel easily — but they must not 
 be peeled — then pour off the water, and let both remain until quite 
 cold. The codlings should now be put into a stone jar, with a some- 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 331 
 
 ■what narrow mouth, fill up the jar with the water which scalded 
 them, wet ajpiece of bladder skin and tie down very close, over this 
 tie some brown paper, so tight as to exclude all air. 
 
 1328. APPLES, GREEN CODLINGS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Gather the codlings when not bigger than French walnuts with 
 the stalks, and a leaf or two of each. Put a handful of vine leaves 
 into a preserving-pan, then a layer of codlings and vine leaves alter- 
 nately, until it is full with vine leaves pretty thickly strewed on the 
 top, and fill the pan with spring water, cover it close to keep in the 
 steam, and set it on a slow fire till the apples become soft; take them 
 out and pare off the rinds with a pen-knife, and then put them into 
 the same water again with the vine leaves, but taking care that the 
 water has become quite cold, or it will cause them to crack; put in a 
 little rock-alum, and set them over a, slow fire till they are green, 
 then take them out and lay them on a sieve to drain, make a good 
 syrup, and give them a gentle hoil three successive days, then put 
 them in small jars with brandy paper over them, and tie them down 
 tight. 
 
 1329. ARTICHOKES, PRESERVED WHOLE. 
 
 Choose middle-sized artichokes, take off all the useless leaves, and 
 trim them, plunge them into boiling and cold water, when drained 
 put them into bottles, make them air tight, surround the bottles with 
 cloths, and place them in a kettleful of cold water, cover the lid also 
 with wet cloths; when it has been boiling about two hours, take the 
 kettle from the fire ; in a quarter of an hour draw off the water, and 
 uncover the kettle ; do not take out the bottles in less than an hour ; 
 the next day tar the bottles. 
 
 1330. ARTICHOKES, PRESERVED THE SPANISH WAY. 
 
 Take the largest artichokes, cut off the tops of the leaves, wash and 
 well drain them ; to every artichoke pour in a table- spoonful of Flo- 
 rence oil, and season them with pepper and salt ; bake them in an 
 oven, and they will keep for ten or twelve months. 
 
 1331. — ASPARAGUS, BOTTLED. 
 
 Clean the asparagus as for boiling ; before you bottle them plunge 
 them first into boiling then into cold water; place those which are un- 
 broken carefully into bottles, the heads downwards, proceed in the 
 same manner as in doing the artichokes. 
 
 1332. — BARBERRY DROPS. 
 
 Cut off the black tops, roast the fruit before the fire until soft 
 enough to pulp with a silver or wooden spoon through a sieve into a 
 china or earthenware basin ; put the basin into a saucepan which is 
 not quite large enough to admit the top rim of the former, put it on 
 a slow fire, and stir until it grows thick, now let it grow cold, 
 
332 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 
 measure it, to every pint add of the very finest loaf sugar pounded 
 one pound and a half. It is necessary that the sugar should be very 
 finely powdered, and sifted through a lawn sieve ; incorporate the 
 sugar and barberries by beating up for at least three hours, that is if 
 the quantity is large, an hour less will suffice for a smaller quantity, 
 drop it on sheets of white foolscap paper, they will dry in any dry 
 place. 
 
 1333. BAEBEREIES, TO PREPARE FOR TARTLETS. 
 
 Take of barberries which are without stones, the quantity you intend 
 to use, weigh, and for every pound put aside three quarters of a 
 pound of loaf sugar, put the barberries in a stone jar, and put it 
 nearly to the neck in warm water, let it simmer until the fruit is 
 soft, then turn them into the preserving pan, add the sugar, and boil 
 gently a quarter of an hour. As the fruit is a strong acid no metal 
 but silver should be used. 
 
 1334. BARBERRIES, TO CANDY. 
 
 Take the barberries out of the preserve, and wash off the syrup in 
 warm water, then sift over them some fine sugar, and set them 
 in an oven, often moving them and strewing sugar upon them until 
 they are dry. 
 
 1335. BARBERRIES PRESERVED IN BUNCHES. 
 
 Choose those barberries which have the largest seeds, which may 
 be extracted carefully with the nib of a pen, weigh your fruit, and 
 mix it with an equal weight of sugar boiled to petit boulet, boil them 
 together two or three times, and skim it, set it aside in an earthen 
 vessel until the next day, when it may be put in pots, and covered. 
 
 1336. BEANS, GARDEN, PRESERVED. 
 
 Shell the beans when they are about half an inch long, and blanch 
 them, put them into bottles with a bunch of savory in each ; close 
 the bottles hermetically, and proceed according to the directions for 
 preserving asparagus; leave them in the bain-marie one hour and a 
 half. If you wish to preserve them in their coats take care to put 
 them into bottles the moment they are shelled, as they change colour 
 so quickly, An hour in the bain-marie is sufficient for them. 
 
 1337- BISCUIT OP PRESERVED FRUITS OR SWEETMEATS. 
 
 Take dried preserved fruits, such as apricots, grapes, plums, 
 oranges, and a little orange-flower marmalade, pound them together, 
 and sift in a sieve ; mix the yolks of new laid eggs, and fine pow- 
 dered sugar therewith till it conies to a paste, but not too liquid ; 
 bake upon paper in a moderate oven. 
 
 1338, BLACK TOPS, WHOLE. 
 
 Cut. off the stalk end of the apple, remove the core without paring,- 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 333 
 
 mix powdered white sugar, a little grated lemon peel, and a little 
 powdered cloves, force this into the holes made by removing the 
 cores, lay the flat end of the apples down on a stewpan, put in equal 
 quantities of raisin wine and water sufficient only to half cover the 
 apples, set them over a very slow fire, cover down, look at them 
 occasionally, and baste with the liquor ; when they are enough done 
 black the tops with a salamander. 
 
 1339. BLACK TOPS — SIMPLE RECEIPT. 
 
 Halve and core some large apples, lay them in a shallow pan, and 
 sift some white sugar over them, bake them until tender through, 
 make a sauce of one glass of wine, and one glass of water, boiled, 
 sweeten to taste. 
 
 1340.— BULLACES, TO PRESEBVE. 
 
 Prick the fruit, throw them into scalding water for a minute, take 
 them clean from the water, strew over them powdered lump sugar ; 
 the next day pour off the syrup, boil and skim it, pour it over the 
 bullaces, and let it stand a day or two ; boil the syrup again, put in 
 the fruit, and boil them together; be careful not to mash them, and 
 then put the preserves into jars. When cold put brandy papers ; to a 
 pound of fruit allow half a pound of sugar. 
 
 1341. — BRANDY CHERRIES. 
 
 Get the largest morel cherries you can, cut off half of the stalk, 
 pricking each cherry with a needle, putting them as you do them into 
 a high glass ; add three quarters of the weight in white candy sugar 
 bruised between until full, a gill of Noyeau, and then fill up with 
 French brandy, tie a bladder over the bottle. 
 
 1342. CHERRIES IN BRANDY. 
 
 Choose the finest and ripest cherries, leave on half the stalks, and 
 put them into very cold water, in about half an hour take them out, 
 and drain them on a sieve, weigh them ; to every pound of fruit allow 
 a quarter of a pound of sugar, when you have clarified and boiled it 
 to grand perle, put in the fruit, boil them up two or three times, 
 stirring them gently with a skimmer, then take them from the fire 
 carefully, and put the cherries into bottles, or glass jars ; when filled 
 add to each twelve cloves and half an ounce of cinnamon tied in a 
 linen bag, put to the sugar when nearly. cold, brandy in proportion 
 of a pint and a half to a pound of fruit, mix them together well, and 
 pour them on the cherries. In two months' time taste them, and if 
 sufficiently flavoured, take out the cloves and cinnamon, cover tire 
 jars close. 
 
 1343. CHERRIES DRIED WITHOUT SUGAR. 
 
 Stone your cherries and put them in their own liquor in your 
 preserving pan, let them simmer gently, keep them moving, then put 
 
334 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 
 them on dishes all night ; the next day repeat the same process over 
 the fire, and when cold put them upon sieves to get dry, in a cool 
 oven, an hour ; do this at twice. Put them away in boxes with white 
 paper between them. 
 
 1344. — TO DRY CHERRIES. 
 
 To every five pounds of cherries add one pound of fine sugar, stone 
 your cherries before you weigh them, then put the fruit into a pre- 
 serving-pan with a little drop of water, scald them, then take them 
 out and dry them ; put them back in the pan, covering with sugar 
 each layer, when dissolved give it a scald as before, take them off and 
 repeat this three or four times ; then take them out of the pan to 
 drain on a sieve, and lay them singly on dishes to dry in the sun or 
 the hot closet. When dry put them in a sieve, have a pan that will 
 admit the sieve into it, fill the pan with water, then dash as quick as 
 you can the sieve through the cold water, then take out the cherries 
 and lay them on cloths and well dry them, then place them again in 
 the sun ; when dry keep them in boxes with covers, with white paper 
 between them. 
 
 1345. — CHERRIES PRESERVED DRY Df BOTCHES. 
 
 Tie up some fine equal-sized cherries in bunches seven or eight in 
 each, fasten them by the ends of the stalks, throw them into sugar 
 boiled to souffle, let the cherries boil up'in it fourteen or fifteen times, 
 then skim and pour it into an earthen pan, set it on a stove till next 
 day, when drain and lay out the cherries to dry. To each pound of 
 fruit allow an equal quantity of sugar. 
 
 1346. CHERRIES, TO CANDY. 
 
 The fruit must be gathered before it is ripe, prick and stone them, 
 boil clarified sugar, and pour it over them. 
 
 1347. — CHERRIES, TO BEEP. ^ 
 
 Cut the stalks carefully from sound and perfectly dry cherries, and 
 put them into clean and dry bottles, when full, cork them tight, and 
 rosin or seal them, bury them in the ground, with the corks down- 
 wards. 
 
 1348. CHERRY JAM. 
 
 Either Kentish or duke's cherries, quite ripe, blanch the kernels 
 of some of them, use a pound of sugar, boil all well with the kernels 
 until the jam will come clear from the pan ; put into glass dishes. 
 
 1349.— CHERRY JAM. 
 
 Take three pounds of fine cherries, stoned and boiled, bruise them, 
 and strain the juice from them ; then take half a pound of red currant 
 juice, and half a pound of loaf sugar, boil them together, put in the 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC, 335 
 
 cherries whilst they are boiling and sprinkle on them three quarters 
 of a pound of sifted sugar, let all boil very fast for half an hour and 
 then put it into pots ; when cold cover with brandy papers. 
 
 1350.— CHEERY JAM. 
 
 Having stoned and boiled three pounds of fine cherries, bruise 
 them, and let the juice run from them, then boil together half a 
 pound of red currant juice, and half a pound of loaf sugar ; put the 
 cherries into these whilst they are boiling, and strew on, them three 
 quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, boil all together very fast for 
 half an hour, and then put it into pots ; when cold put on brandy 
 papers. 
 
 1351. CURRANT JAM, BLACK. 
 
 Gather your currants on a dry day when they are full ripe, pick 
 them from the stalks, wash them well in a basin, and to every pound 
 of currants put a pound of double refined sugar beaten and sifted ; 
 put them into a preserving pan, boil them half an hour, skim and 
 keep them stirring all the time, then put them into pots ; when cold 
 put brandy paper over them ; and tie white paper over all. 
 
 1352. — CURRANT JAM OP ALL COtOTJRS. 
 
 Strip your currants, and put them into your pan, with three quar- 
 ters of a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit, add your sugar after 
 your fruit has boiled a few minutes, boil all together mashing your 
 fruit with a wooden spoon ; boil all gently for half an hour, jthen £11 
 your jars. 
 
 1353. — CURRANTS PRESERVED. 
 
 Take the seeds and stalks from whatever quantity of currants you 
 intend to use, of which a fourth, part must be white currants ; put 
 them into a preserving pan with a glass of water, let them boil up 
 until the fruit bursts then strain the juice twice, clarify and boil to 
 <am6 some sugar, an equal weight to the fruit, pour the juice on it, 
 boil them together a quarteT of an hour, and having skimmed it well 
 pour it into pots. 
 
 1354. CURRANTS, TO PRESERVE THEM DRY. 
 
 Stone your currants and tie them up in bunches ; to every pound 
 of currants boil two pounds of sugar till it boils very strong, dip in 
 the currants, let them boil very fast till the sugar flies all over them ; 
 when settled a quarter of an hour boil them till the sugar rises almost 
 to the top of the pan, let them settle, skim them and set them by till 
 next day, then drain them and lay them out, taking care to spread 
 the sprigs that they may not dry clogged together, dust them very 
 much, and dry them in a hot stove. 
 
 1355. CURRANTS FOR TARTS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 ' Put a pound of sugar into a preserving-pan ; for every pound and 
 
336 CONFECTIONEKY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 
 a quarter of currants have a sufficient quantity of currant juice to 
 dissolve the sugar ; when it hoils skim it, and put in the currants, 
 and boil them till they, are very clear ; put them into a jar, cover them 
 with brandy paper, and keep them in a dry place. 
 
 1356. CITRON, CANDIED. 
 
 Pare the citrons very thin and narrow and throw them into water, 
 these are called faggots ; then cut the citron into slices of any thick- 
 ness you think proper ; take the inner part with great care so as to 
 leave only the white ring and put them with the faggots into boiling 
 water, when tender drain them ; boil a sufficient quantity of clarified 
 sugar to sovfflk, then put in the rings and boil them together, take it 
 from the fire, and when a little cool rub the sugar against the side of 
 the preserving-pan with the back of a spoon ; as soon as it becomes 
 white take out the rings with a fork very carefully one by one, and 
 lay them on a wire grate to drain ; boil and proceed with faggots in a 
 similar manner, when taken out cut them into proper lengths with a 
 pair of scissors, and lay them also on the wire to drain. 
 
 1357- CITRON, WHITE, PEESEEVED. 
 
 Lay some white citron cut into pieces in salt and water for four or 
 five hours, then having washed them in cold water boil them ; when 
 tender drain and lay them into as much clarified sugar as will cover 
 them; then next day drain off the syrup and boil it. When quite 
 smooth and cold pour it on the citron, let them stand twenty-four 
 hours, then boil the syrup and put in; the citrons; the third day boil 
 both together, and put them into moulds to candy. 
 
 1358. CITEON, PEESEEVED LIQUID. 
 
 Cut a slit in the sides of some small citrons so that the inside may 
 take the sugar as well as the outside, and put them over the fire in 
 some water ; whenever they are near boiling put cold water to them, 
 as soon as the citrons rise to the top take them out, and throw them 
 into cold water, they must then be put on the fire again in the same 
 water, and boiled gently until tender, then take them and put them 
 into cold water. After this boil them seven or eight times in clarified 
 sugar; pour the "whole into an earthen pan, and let it stand; the next 
 day drain the fruit, and boil up the syrup twenty or thirty times; add 
 a little more sugar and pour it over the citrons, do this for three suc- 
 cessive days, increasing the degree to which you boil the sugar daily, 
 so that, at the last boiling, the degree maybe au perle, the fruits 
 may then be put into pots. 
 
 1359. DAMSONS, DEIED. 
 
 Take damsons that you have preserved, drain all the syrup from 
 them, cover the bottoms of sieves with them, and put them into 
 stoves which should be hot, change the sieves every day till they are 
 <lry, and as you change the sieves turn the damsons, and when they 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 337 
 
 are not sticky nor likely to give; take them out, paper a box and put 
 them in and lay a paper between each layer of damsons. 
 
 1360. DAMSONS DRIED ANOTHER RECEIPT. 
 
 Make a thin syrup, let it boil and skim it, then stone your damsons 
 and put them into the syrup ; boil them up once, then leave them in 
 the syrup. Make another syrup with some refined sugar, with just 
 sufficient water to damp it, boil this syrup till it is candied, then take 
 the damsons out of the first syrup and put them into the syrup you 
 have just made; let them simmer init a little over the fire, and leave 
 them in afterwards till the following day; then place them one by one 
 on a sieve, and dry them on a stove or in nearly a cold oven, turning 
 them twice a day. When they are dry place them by layers into boxes 
 with paper between each layer ; keep them in a dry cool place. 
 
 1361 DAMSONS — TO KEEP. 
 
 Put them in small stone jars or wide-mouthed bottles ; set them up 
 to their necks in a boiler of cold water, and lighting a fire under, 
 scald them ; next day, when they are quite cold, fill up with spring 
 water, and cover them closely. 
 
 1362. DAMSONS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Put a quart of damsons to half a pound of loaf sugar powdered 
 fine into a deep pot with layers of damsons, then strew in a handful 
 of sugar till you have put in what quantity you like ; tie them close 
 down, set them in an oven or in a pot of water over the fire, let them 
 infuse till they are melted ; let them stand till cold, then strain the 
 juice from them, boil it up well, and strain till clear; put it to your 
 damsons, let them stand till cold, put a brandy paper over them and 
 cover them with a wet bladder. 
 
 1363. — FIGS GREEN, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Slit some small green figs on the top, and put them into water for 
 ten days, and proceed thus : — Put as much salt into the water as will 
 make it bear an egg, then let it settle, take off the scum and put the 
 clear brine to the figs, keep them for ten days ; then put them into- 
 fresh water shifting them every day for four days; again drain, then 
 put them into clarified sugar, warm them a little and let them stand 
 till the next day ; warm them again, and when they are become green 
 give them a good boil, then boil some sugar to blow, put it to them 
 and give them another boil, and next day drain and dry them. 
 
 1364. FIGS RIPE, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Take the white figs when ripe, slit them in the tops, put them into 
 clarified sugar, and give them a good boil, skim them, and leave them 
 to stand till the next day ; then boil some more sugar au souffle, put 
 it to the figs and give them another boil, the next day drain and dry 
 them. 
 
 Z 
 
338 Confectionery, peeseeved fruits, etc. 
 
 1365. FRUITS, TO PRESERTE FOR TARTS OR FAMILY DESSERTS. 
 
 Cherries, and plums of all sorts, and American apples, gather 
 when ripe, and lay them in small jars that will hold a pound, strew 
 over each jar six ounces of good loaf sugaT pounded, cover with two 
 bladders each separately tied down, then put the jars up to the neck 
 in a large stewpan of water, and let it boil gently for three hours ; 
 All sorts of fruit should be kept free from damp. 
 
 1366. FRUIT, TO PRESERVE GREEN. 
 
 Take pippins, apricots, pears, plums, or peaches while they are 
 green ; put them in a preserving-pan, cover them with vine leaves 
 and then with fine clear spring water, put on the cover of the pan ; 
 set them over a very clear fire, when they begin to simmer take 
 them off the fire, and carefully with the slice take them out, peel and 
 preserve them as other fruit. 
 
 1367- FRUITS, GREEN, FOR PRESERVING OR PICKLING. 
 
 Take of green almonds, apricots, plums, pears, pippins, peaches, or 
 any green fruit intended to be preserved, the quantity required ; put 
 them into a preserving pan (well tinned) in alternate layers of vine 
 leaves and fruit, beginning with the vine leaves and ending with 
 them. Cover them with spring water, and close down the lid so as 
 to shut out all air. Place it to simmer by the side of the fire : as 
 soon as it simmers strain off the water and take away the vine leaves. 
 Should not the fruit be sufficiently green, the same process with fresh 
 vine leaves must be repeated. A slice should be used to take them 
 out of the pan with, and they must be then peeled. For the mode 
 of completing the preserving of each fruit named, refer to the receipt 
 under its own heading. . 
 
 Radish pods, French beans, cucumbers, &c, are to be treated in 
 this manner, for preserving and for pickling. 
 
 1368. — GINGER, PRESERVED. 
 
 Take some green ginger, and with a sharp knife pare it neatly, and 
 as it is pared throw into a pan of cold water to keep it white; when 
 you have a sufficient quantity boil it till tender, changing the water 
 three times each time; put it into cold water to take out the heat 
 or spirit of the ginger, when tender throw it into cold water. For 
 seven pounds of ginger clarify eight pounds of refined sugar ; when 
 cold drain the ginger and put it into an earthen pan, with a sufficient 
 quantity of the sugar cold to cover it, and let it stand for a couple of 
 days ; then pour the syrup from the ginger to the remainder of the 
 sugar, boil it for some time, and when cold pour it on the ginger 
 again, and set by for three days at least. Then take the syrup from 
 the ginger, boil it, and then put it hot over the ginger, proceed in 
 this manner until you find the sugar has entered the ginger ; boiling 
 the syrup and skimming off the scum that rises each time until the 
 syrup becomes rich as well as the ginger; if the syrup is put on 
 hot at first, or if too rich the ginger will shrink and not take the 
 sugar 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 339 
 
 1369. GINGER, CANDIED. 
 
 Put an ounce of ginger grated fine and a pound of sifted sugar 
 into a preserving-pan, with as much water as will dissolve it; stir 
 them well together over a slow fire till the sugar begins to boil, then 
 add another pound, stirring constantly till it thickens ; take it from 
 the fire, drop it on earthen dishes, set them in a warm place to 
 dry, and they will be hard and brittle and look white. 
 
 1370. GHERKINS FOE SALADS OK PICKLED. 
 
 The best sort are the Dutch ; they are used when boiled for 
 garnishing salads and for ragouts. For boiling, let them remain one 
 minute in boiling water, then put them into the ragout or a good 
 sauce, but they must not be permitted to boil again. For pickling 
 choose the greenest ; cut off tails and head, and rub off the down ; 
 wash, dry, and lay them in a jar; pour over enough of the best 
 vinegar to cover them, and let them stand for three days ; then draw 
 off the vinegar and boil it ; when a little reduced throw in the 
 gherkins, and boil them together, pour the whole into a jar again. 
 In six days remove them ; boil them again, adding garlic, tarragon, 
 and salt ; return them to the jar, and do not cover them until the 
 vinegar is cold. 
 
 1371. GHERKINS, PRESERVED WET. 
 
 Let your gherkins be clear and free from all spots, put them into 
 salt and water, let them stand two or three days, then take them out 
 and drain them well ; put them in another pan of water, scald them, 
 put them in a tub and let them stand all night; then drain the water 
 from them; put them in a pan of water, and to every two quarts of 
 water put half a pint of syrup ; put them in and let them boil over 
 a slow fire five minutes ; put them in a tub again and let them stand 
 till next day; then boil them again, drain that syrup from them and 
 have a clear pan with the syrup of a proper thickness ; let it boil, put 
 the gherkins into it and let them boil gently for a quarter of an hour ; 
 then put them into a flat brown pan and cover them ; let them 
 stand two days, then drain the syrup from them ; boil the syrup one 
 minute and pour it over them ; the next day boil them and the syrup 
 together three or four minutes, and repeat the same for five days; 
 then put them into pots and cover them. 
 
 1372. GOOBEBEREIES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Put one quart of red currant juice to five pounds of loaf sugar; 
 set it on the fire, and when the sugar is dissolved put in eight pounds 
 of red rough, ripe gooseberries, let them boil half an hour, then put 
 them into an earthen pan and leave them to stand for two days ; then 
 boil them again till they look clear ; put them into pots and let them 
 stand a week to dry a little at the top, then cover them with brandy 
 papers. 
 
 Z 2 
 
340 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 1373. GOOSEBERRIES, TO KEEP. 
 
 When the weather is dry pick the gooseberries that are full grown 
 and not ripe ; pick off the tops and tails and put them into open- 
 mouthed bottles ; gently cork them with quite new corks, put them 
 in the oven after the bread is drawn, and let them stand until shrunk 
 a 'quarter part; then take them out of the oven and immediately beat 
 the corks in tight, cut off the tops, and rosin them tightly down, set 
 them in a dry place, and if they are well secured from the air they 
 will keep the year round. 
 
 1374. — GOOSEBERRY JAM. 
 
 Take what quantity you please of red rough, ripe gooseberries, 
 take half their quantity of lump sugar, break them well and boil 
 them together for half an hour or more if necessary, put into pots 
 ;md cover with paper. 
 
 1375. GOOSEBERRIES, RIPE, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Prepare some sugar to the degree of petite plume ; put the goose- 
 berries in it to boil a moment, and if for present use, let them cool 
 before you skim them ; if for keeping, refine the sugar yet more by 
 boiling. 
 
 1376. GOOSEBERRIES AS JAM. 
 
 Get green or white gooseberries when nearly ripe, top and tail 
 them all, and to every pound add three quarters of a pound of sugar, 
 and half a pint of water to every three quarters of a pound of sugar ; 
 boil and clarify the sugar for a quarter of an hour, then add the 
 fruit; boil gently until clear, then with a wooden spoon mash up the 
 fruit, and boil it for about ten minutes ; then fill in the jars. 
 
 1377-— GRAPES, GREEN, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Take the largest and best grapes before they are ripe ; stone and 
 scald them, let them lie two days in the water they were scalded in, 
 then drain them and put them into a thin syrup, heat them over a 
 slow fire ; the next day turn the grapes into a pan and heat them, then 
 drain them, put them into clarified sugar, give them a good boil and 
 skim them, and set them by. The next day boil more sugar to muffle, 
 put it to the grapes, give them all a good boil, skim them, and set 
 them in a warm stove all night; the day after drain the grapes and 
 lay them out to dry, first dusting them very well. 
 
 1378. — -GRAPES PRESERVED IN CLUSTERS. 
 
 Take the large Gascoigne grapes before they are too ripe and pick 
 every one; to every pound of grapes put a pound and a quarter of 
 sugar, make a syrup of the verjuice strained; when the sugar is quite 
 clear put the grapes, after they are strained, into the syrup into a 
 deep jar, cover tliem close and set them in a pot of scalding water 
 over the fire to boil ; as soon as the grapes are tender take them up 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PEL SERVED FRUITS, ETC. 341 
 
 and boil the syrup a little more ; when they are half cold put them 
 into broad glasses or straight jars, lay one cluster over the other, 
 cover them with brandy papers and tie them up. 
 
 1 379. GREEN-GAGES. 
 
 Weigh a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit ; the largest when they 
 begin to get soft are the best ; split them and take out the kernels and 
 stew them in part of the sugar, take out the kernels from the shells 
 and blanch them ; the next day strain ofF the syrup and boil it with 
 the remaining sugar about ten minutes ; skim it and add the fruit and 
 kernels, skim it until clear, put it into small pots with syrup and 
 kernels. 
 
 1380. GEEEN-GAGES IN BEANDY. 
 
 Take some preserved greengages, and drain all the syrup from 
 them ; put them into a jar, and to every pint of brandy add two 
 ounces and a half of sugar; when the sugar is melted pour it over 
 the green-gages; then cover them very close with bladder and leather, 
 and keep the jar filled with brandy. 
 
 1381. — GKEEN-GAGES, TO CANDY. 
 
 "When finished in the syrup (see " Green-gages, to preserve") put a 
 layer into a new sieve, and dip it suddenly into hot water to take off 
 the syrup that hangs about it ; then put it on a napkin before the fire 
 to drain, and then do some more on the sieve. Have ready some sifted 
 double-refined sugar, sift this over every part of the fruit till it is 
 perfectly white, set it on the shallow end of the sieve, in a slightly 
 hot oven, and turn it two or three times ; it must not be cold till dry, 
 watch it carefully. 
 
 1382. — GEEEN-GAGES, COMPOTE OF. 
 
 Pick the green-gages with a pin, and set them on the fire in a pan 
 of cold water till they are slightly soft ; take them off and let them 
 cool in the same water ; now take the highest degree of clarified 
 sugar, put your green-gages into it, and set them on a very slow fire 
 to make them exude their water and turn green ; during this last 
 operation, cover your pan with a tin plate to prevent the escape of 
 steam ; after which take them out and dress them in four dishes. 
 
 1383. GEEEN-GAGES, DIUED. 
 
 Take preserved green-gages, put them over the fire to warm, drain 
 all the syrup from them, put them on sieves and into the stove, 
 change them every day, and turn them or they will stick; let them 
 remain in the stove for three days, then put them into papered boxes 
 with a sheet of paper between each layer of fruit. 
 
 1384. GREEN-GAGE JAM. 
 
 Take some ripe green-gages, rub them through a large hair sieve, 
 put them into a preserving-pan, add a pound of sifted sugar to each 
 
342 CONFECTIONERY,, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 
 pound of pulp ; then boil it to a proper thickness, skim it clean, and 
 put it into small pots. 
 
 1385. — LEMON, GREEN, PRESERVED. 
 
 Split some small green lemons on one side, that they may take the 
 sugar inside as well as outside; put them into cold water, and set them, 
 on the fire, and keep them from boiling by pouring cold water on 
 them frequently ; as soon, however, as they rise above it, take them 
 from the fire and throw them into cold water; after they have lain a 
 little time in it put them on the fire and boil slowly till the fruit is 
 quite tender, when they must again be put into cold water ; clarify 
 some sugar, put the lemons to it, and having let it boil up seven or 
 eight times, put the whole into a pan till the next day; then drain ofi" 
 the syrup, boil it up twenty or thirty times, having added a little 
 fresh sugar, pour it over your lemons, and repeat this three succes- 
 sive days increasing the boiling point of the sugar each day, so that 
 on the last it will be perle, when the fruit must be boiled with it once, 
 and then it may be put into pots. 
 
 1386. LEMONS PICKLED. 
 
 Take twelve lemons and rub them well with a piece of flannel ; 
 then rub them over with bay salt, and lay them on an earthen pan, 
 turning them every day for three days; then slice an ounce of ginger, 
 and salt it well, and let it lie in salt for three days ; parboil twelve 
 cloves of garlic, well salted for three days, a small handful of mustard 
 seed bruised, some cayenne pepper and one clove of garlic should be 
 put to each lemon; take your lemons out of the salt, squeeze them, 
 put them into a jar with the spice, and cover them with the best 
 white wine vinegar, stop them up close, and in a month's time they 
 will be fit for use. 
 
 1387. XEMON JUICE, TO KEEP. 
 
 Keep the lemons for two or three days in a cool place ; if too 
 unripe to squeeze cut the peel of some, and roll them under your 
 hand, they will then part with their juice more readily, others you 
 may leave unpared for grating ; when the pulp has been taken out 
 and they have been dried, squeeze the juice into a china basin, then 
 strain it through some muslin, take care that none of the pulp 
 passes through ; have'ready some ounce and a half phials, be careful 
 that they are dry and fill them with lemon juice, only fill them to 
 the top so that they will admit a tea-spoonful of sweet oil into each ; 
 cork the bottles and set them up in a cool place. If you make the 
 larger phials you must put in rather more than a tea-spoonful ofr 
 oil ; when you want your lemon juice open a bottle that you will 
 use in a day or two ; wind some clean cotton round a skewer and 
 dip it in, the oil will be attracted, and when all is removed the juice 
 will be as good as when, it was first, made ; hang the peel up to dry 
 in a place free from dust* 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 343 
 
 1388. LEMONS, TO KEEP FOE PUDDINGS. 
 
 When you squeeze the fruit throw the outsides into water without 
 the pulp, let them remain in the same a fortnight adding no more ; 
 boil them in the same till tender, strain it from them and when 
 they are nearly dry throw them into a jar of candy you may have 
 remaining from old sweetmeats, or if you have none boil some 
 syrup of common loaf sugar and water and pour over them; in a 
 week or ten days boil them gently in them till they look clear, and 
 that they may be covered within the jar, you may cut each half of 
 the fruit in two and they will occupy a smaller space. 
 
 1389. MAGNUM BONTJM PLUMS. 
 
 Pick each plum with your larding pin ; simmer them in a thin 
 syrup very gently for a few minutes, then put them away into a 
 basin, and when your syrup is cold pour it upon the plums ; let them 
 remain so for about three days, then make a syrup of three pounds 
 of sugar to every five pound of fruit; add the sugar to the former 
 syrup taking out the plums first ; when the syrup boils place your 
 plums into it, keep boiling them until the plums are a clear yellow 
 and the syrup adheres to them ; put them separately into small pots, 
 cover them with syrup. If you wish to dry any boil some syrup a 
 little longer and quick, and then give that fruit another boil ; take 
 them upon a drying sieve to drain, these plums will ferment if not 
 boiled in two syrups. 
 
 1390. NECTARINES TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Split the nectarines and take out the stones, then put them into 
 clarified sugar; boil them till they have thoroughly taken the sugar; 
 take off all the scum, cover them with a paper and set them by, the 
 following day boil a little more sugar to a strong smiffie^ put it to the 
 nectarines and give them a good boil, take off the scum, cover them, 
 and put them into a stove; the next day drain them and lay them out 
 to dry, having previously dusted them a little with sugar, then put 
 them in the stove again. 
 
 1391. NECTARINES, TO KEEP. 
 
 This fruit is bottled in a similar way to apricots, the nectarines 
 should be gathered perfectly ripe, and the skin taken off with great 
 care. 
 
 1392. — ORANGES, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Hasp or cut the oranges in scallops with a penknife and throw 
 them into water ; change it once a day for three days, then boil them 
 till tender enough to run a wheat straw through, then put them into 
 cold water till the next day ; pulp and wipe them very dry, have the 
 syrup ready, boil them two or three times till very clear, observe to 
 put the syrup to them ; when cold make it the same as for cucum- 
 bers. 
 
344 CONFECTIONERY, PEESEBVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 1393. ORANGES, TO PRESERVE IN JELIY. 
 
 Cut a hole about the size of a shilling in the stalk part of the 
 orange, and with a small blunt knife scrape out the pulp quite clean 
 without cutting the rind ; tie each orange separately in muslin, and 
 let them lie for two days in spring water, changing the water twice a 
 day; in the last boil them tender on a slow fire ; take care there is 
 enough at first to allow for wasting, as they must be covered to the 
 last. To each pound of fruit weigh two pounds of double refined sugar, 
 and one pint of water ; boil the two latter together with the juice of 
 the orange to syrup, and clarify it, skim it well and let it stand to 
 become cold, then boil the fruit in the syrup for half an hour ; if not 
 clear repeat this daily till they are done. 
 
 1394. — ORANGE PEEL, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Cut the orange in half, take out the pulp, put the peel in strong 
 salt and water to soak for three days ; repeat this three times, then 
 put them on a sieve to dry, take one pound of loaf sugar, add to it a 
 quart of spring water, boil it, skim it until quite clear, let the peels 
 simmer until they are quite transparent, dry them before the fire. 
 Take loaf sugar with just sufficient water to dissolve it ; whilst the 
 sugar is boiling put in the peels, stirring continually until all the 
 sugar is candied round them, then put them to dry, either before the 
 fire or in the oven, and when perfectly dried put them by for use. 
 
 1395. TO PRESERVE SEVILLE ORANGES WHOLE. 
 
 Cut the oranges in circles about the thickness of a sixpence, then 
 put them in cold spring water for three days, changing it often ; tie 
 each of them in a rag and boil them until they are tender in fresh 
 water. To every pound of orange put a pound and a half of double 
 refined sugar, add a sufficient quantity of water for the syrup and boil 
 them in it till they are quite clear, put them into separate jars or 
 glasses, and cover them well with the syrup. 
 
 1396. TO KEEP ORANGES OR LEMONS FOR PUDDINGS. 
 
 When you have squeezed the fruit take out the pulp, throw the 
 outsides into water with a little salt, let them remain a fortnight, 
 then boil them till quite tender, strain them, and when they are nearly 
 dry throw them into a jar, if you have any old syrup left add it to 
 them, if you have none boil a little syrup of common loaf sugar, and 
 water and put over them ; in a week or ten days boil them gently in 
 it till they look clear, and that they may be covered with it in the 
 jar you may cut each half of the fruit in two, and they will occupy 
 less space. 
 
 1397- — PEARS, BAKED. 
 
 Take half a dozen fine pears; peel, cut them in halves, and take 
 out the cores, put them into a pan with a little red wine, and some 
 cloves, half a pound of sugar, and some water ; set them in a mode- 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 345 
 
 rate oven till tender, then put them on a slow fire to stew gently ; 
 add grated lemon peel, and more sugar if necessary ; they will be 
 sufficiently red. 
 
 1398. PEAKS, TO KEEP. 
 
 Choose the soundest pears, peel and cut them into quarters, take 
 out the pips, and put the pieces into bottles, which place in the 
 bain marie. If the pears are intended for dessert, one boiling is suffi- 
 cient, but if for cooking they must boil five or six times; should 
 the fruit thus bottled have fallen from the tree, instead of being 
 athered, they will require a quarter of an hour boiling. 
 
 1399. PEARS, JARGONELLE. 
 
 Pare them very thin and smooth, boil them gently in a thin syrup ; 
 let them lie a day or two in this syrup, add more sugar to the syrup, 
 and boil the pears again ; put them by again, and keep daily 
 repeating it until they are clear; then dry them on a hair sieve in the 
 sun or the hot closet ; keep what is not wanted for drying in syrup. 
 Boil in some of the same syrup, thinly pared in lengths some orange 
 peels and lemon peels, add all the syrups together, put this peel for 
 a garnish when dished. 
 
 1400. PLUMS, CANDIED. 
 
 Choose your fruit of a nice shape, and good size, cut them in 
 halves, lay them on a large shallow dish, strew powdered sugar over 
 them, and put them in a moderate oven tightly closed; in half an 
 hour's time take them out, and place the plums one by one on 
 glass plates to dry. 
 
 1401. PLUMS, PRESERVED DRY. 
 
 Gather the plums when full grown and just turning colour ; prick 
 and put them into a saucepan of cold water, set them on the fire 
 until the water is on the point of boiling; then take them out, drain 
 and boil them well in some clarified sugar, let them settle and then 
 boil again ; if they shrink and will not take the sugar prick them as 
 they lie in the pan and then give them another boil, skim and set 
 them by ; the next day add some more sugar, boiled to sowfflG to the 
 fruit, any syrup ; then put them together, place them in a stove till 
 next day, then drain the plums from the syrup, sprinkle a little 
 powdered sugar over, and dry them in a stove. 
 
 1402: — QUINCES. 
 
 Cut in thick slices, not pared, some golden pippin apples, boil them 
 in about two quarts of water very fast, until the water becomes a 
 thick jelly; have ready scalded the quinces you wish to do, and to 
 every pint of the pippin jelly add one pound of lump sugar; as it 
 boils keep it well skimmed ; put in your quinces if whole ones, they 
 will take longer boiling, you can cut them in half if preferred, but 
 
346 CONFECTIONERY, FBESEEVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 
 they must not be done together, when you think they are done put 
 some syrup into a glass to cool. Use a pound of sugar to a pound of 
 quinces, and a pound of the jelly to each pound of quinces. 
 
 1403 QBINCES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Choose the quinces very ripe, yellow, and quite sound; pare, 
 quarter, and core them, put them into a little water and scald them, 
 as soon as they are soft throw into cold water, and put them to drain; 
 clarify, and boil to lisse an equal weight of sugar, put in the fruit, 
 cover, and leave them to simmer, for another quarter of an hour, then 
 take them from the fire, skim and pour the preserve into a pan. Ip. 
 two days drain off the syrup, boil it to perle, add the fruit, give the 
 whole one boil covered, let it cool a little and then simmer for a 
 quarter of an hour, after which leave it till next day, when proceed 
 as above, but boil the syrup to grand perle. As soon as the preserve is 
 cooled put it into pots, adding to each a little quince jelly. 
 
 A little prepared cochineal added to the above will give the 
 preserve a fine red colour, in ■which case the jelly ought to be red 
 also. 
 
 1404. QUINCES, TO KEEP. 
 
 Gather the fruit quite ripe but perfectly sound, rub each carefully 
 with a clean cloth to remove the down, then quarter and put them 
 into bottles corked tight, give them half an hour's boil in the 
 bain marie. 
 
 1405. RASPBERRIES, TO KEEP. 
 
 This fruit may be bottled for keeping like cherries, they must not 
 be more than just ripe. 
 
 1406. — RASPBERRIES, PRESERVED. 
 
 Take five or six pounds of red but not too ripe raspberries ; pick 
 and put them into a preserving-pan "with an equal weight of clarified 
 sugar, boiled to petit bouletj when they have boiled up about a 
 dozen times, skim and pour the whole into a pan till the next day, 
 then drain the fruit and put it into jars ; put to the syrup about two 
 glasses of cherry-juice previously strained, boil the sugar to souffle 
 and then pour it over the raspberries, add afterwards about a spoon- 
 ful of currant-juice to each pot, and when cold lay on brandy paper, 
 and tie them down. 
 
 1407. RASPBERRY JAM. 
 
 To every pound of fruit use a pound of sugar, but always boil the 
 fruit well before you add the sugar to it, it will be a better colour ; 
 put your fruit in your preserving-pan, mashing them with a long 
 wooden spoon, after boiling them a few minutes add the same quan- 
 tity of sugar as fruit, boiling it for half an hour, keeping i^well 
 stirred. When sufficiently reduced fill your jars. 
 
CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 347 
 
 1408. RHUBARB PRESERVE. 
 
 Rhubarb preserve, if made according to the following directions, 
 is almost equal to the celebrated Scotch marmalade. Procure six 
 oranges, peel them and take away the white rind and the kernels, 
 then slice the pulp into the stewpan along with the peel cut Yery 
 small, add thereto a quart of rhubarb cut fine, and from one pound 
 to one pound and a half of loaf sugar ; boil the whole down as for 
 other preserves. 
 
 1409. SAMPHIRE, TO DRY OR PRESERVE. 
 
 Take it in bunches as it grows, set a large deep stewpan full of 
 water on the fire ; as soon as it boils throw in a little salt, and put in 
 the samphire, when it looks of a fine green remove the pan directly 
 from the fiie and take out the samphire with a fork, lay it on sieves 
 to drain ; when cold lay it on earthern plates, strew sugar well over it j 
 next day turn them on a sieve and strew it again with sugar, keep 
 turning daily until it is dry, take care the stove is not too hot. 
 
 1410. SIBERIAN CRABS, TO PRESERVE. 
 
 Take their weight in sugar, make a syrup with apple jelly ; when 
 well boiled prick the crabs and put into it, let them boil a few 
 minutes, then take them out and put them on a sieve to drain, when 
 cold put them again into the syrup, boil it a few minutes more and 
 drain them as before ; do this a third time, observing the same rule as- 
 at first; then put them into glasses or jars, and pour the jelly boiling 
 over them. 
 
 1411.— STRAWBERRY JAM. 
 
 Take some scarlet strawberries quite ripe, bruise them well_and 
 add the juice of other strawberries ; take an equal weight of lump 
 sugar, pound and sift it, stir it thoroughly into the fruit and boil it 
 twenty minutes over a slow fire, taking off the scum as it rises ; pour 
 it into glasses or jars and when cold tie them down. 
 
 1412.-'— STRAWBERRIES, PARISIAN SOUFFIjE. 
 
 Take the finest strawberries you can procure, pick, crush, and rub* 
 them through a sieve. Whisk the whites of eighteen eggs to a fine 
 froth, add to it % pound and a half of powdered sugar ; stir them 
 together as lightly as possible ; mix them with the strawberries. 
 Pour the whole into a croustade, and bake it for an hour in a 
 moderate oven ; when done, glaze it and serve. 
 
 1413.-*wgTBAWBERRIES PRESERVED IN WINE. 
 
 Put some very large strawberries into a gooseberry bottle, and? 
 strew in three spoonfuls of fine sugar; fill up with Madeira or good 
 sherry. 
 
348 CONFECTIONERY, PRESERVED FRUITS, ETC. 
 1414. STRAWBERRY CONSERVE. 
 
 Take some very ripe fresh, strawberries, pick, and crush them through 
 a tammy ; for every dessert-spoonful of juice allow six ounces of 
 sugar ; boil this to forte perle, take it off the fire, and pour in the . 
 juice, stir them together with a silver spoon until' the conserve begins 
 to whiten and dry, then put it into moulds or paper cases ; if the 
 conserve be too white add a little carmine to the syrup. 
 
 1415. TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES WHOLE. 
 
 Take equal weights of the fruit and double refined sugar; lay the 
 former in a large dish and sprinkle half the sugar in fine powder over, 
 give a gentle shake to the dish that the sugar may touch the under 
 side of the fruit; next day make a thin syrup with the remainder of 
 the sugar, and instead of water allow one pint of red currant juice to 
 every pound of strawberries, in this simmer them until sufficiently 
 jellied; choose the largest scarlets or others when not dead ripe, 
 in either of the above ways they eat well served in thin cream in 
 glasses. 
 
PICKLES. 349 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 PICKLES. 
 
 RULES TO BE OBSERVED IN PICKLING. 
 
 Procure always the best white wine vinegar. This can only he 
 obtained by dealing with a respectable tradesman upon whom you 
 can depend. Vinegar is so grossly adulterated that it is really a 
 difficulty to obtain it pure. 
 
 Orleans vinegar, although the dearest is the best. The success 
 of your pickle depends on the goodness of your vinegar. 
 
 Use glass bottles for your pickles ; if earthern jars, they must be 
 unglazed, as the vinegar acting upon the glaze produces a mineral 
 poison. Use saucepans lined with earthenware or stone pipkins to 
 boil your vinegar in. If you are compelled to use tin, do not let 
 your vinegar remain in it one moment longer than actually necessary; 
 employ also wooden knives and forks in the preparation of your 
 pickles. Fill your jars three parts full with the articles to be pickled, 
 and then add vinegar up to the neck of the jar or bottle. 
 
 When greening, keep the pickles covered down, or the evaporation 
 of the steam will injure the colour ; a little nut of alum may be 
 added to crisp the pickles, but it should be very small in proportion 
 to the quantity, or it will give a disagreeable flavour. 
 
 1416. ALMOND, GREEN, PICKLE. 
 
 Boil vinegar according to the quantity of pickle you want ; scum 
 it and put in salt, mace, ginger, Jamaica, and white pepper, put it 
 into a jar and let it stand till cold, then add the almonds cut in 
 half, letting the liquor cover them. 
 
 1417- APPLE CODLINGS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Gather the codlings when of the size of a large double walnut ; 
 take a pan and make a thick layer of vine leaves at the bottom ; put 
 in the codlings and cover them well with vine leaves and spring 
 water, and put them over a slow fire till they are sufficiently tender 
 to pare the skins with ease with a small sharp knife, put them into 
 the same water with vine leaves as before; cover them close, and 
 set the pan at a short distance from the fire until they are of a fine 
 
350 PICKLES. 
 
 green, then drain them in a cullender till they are cold ; put them 
 into jars with some mace and a clove or two of garlic, according 
 •to the quantity of the apples, and cover them with distilled vinegar; 
 pour over mutton fat, and tie them down with a bladder and leather 
 very tight. 
 
 ,? 1418. ABTICHOKES PICKLED. 
 
 Boil the artichokes till you can pull the leaves off; take out the 
 ■choke and cut away the stalk, be careful that the knife does not 
 touch the top; throw them into salt and water, when they have lain 
 an hour take them out and drain them, then put them into glasses 
 or jars, and put a little mace and sliced nutmeg between; fill them 
 with vinegar and spring water, cover your jars close. 
 
 1419. ASPABAGUS PICKLED. 
 
 Cut and wash the green heads of the largest asparagus ; let them 
 lie two or three hours in cold water ; scald them very carefully in 
 salt and water, then lay them on a cloth to cool ; make a pickle 
 according to the quantity of your asparagus, of white wine vinegar 
 and bay salt, and boil it. To a gallon of pickle put two nutmegs, a 
 quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of whole white pepper, and 
 pour the pickle hot over them; cover the jar with a thick cloth, and 
 let it stand a week then boil the pickle, when it has stood another 
 ■week boil it a third time ; when cold cover the jar close. 
 
 1420. BEANS, FBENCH, PICKLED. 
 
 Lay them in salt and water for nine days, then ,add a little 
 •vinegar and boil them in the liquor; when they become green 
 drain them, wipe them dry, and put the beans into a jar ; boil 
 some vinegar, ginger, mace, pepper, cloves, and mustard-seed, all 
 bruised, and while hot pour it on the beans ; cover them close 
 when cold. 
 
 1421. BEANS, FBENCH, PICKLED. 
 
 Get them before they are stringy, as you do not remove the tops 
 and tails ; put them in a very strong brine, and let them lie until 
 they become yellow; drain the liquor from them, and dry them in a 
 .cloth, then put them into a stone jar, by the side of the fire, pour- 
 ing upon them boiling vinegar every day; be sure to keep in the 
 steam, and in a few days they will become green. 
 
 1422. CABBAGE, BED, PICKLED. 
 
 Take about a quarter of an ounce of cochineal and put it into a 
 little bag, and boil it with as much vinegar as you think enough 
 for the cabbage, with a little salt and bay salt ; when it boils scald 
 the cabbage with it, then boil it up again and put a little ginger 
 and pepper into it, then put it somewhere to cool; when cold put 
 ihe cabbage into jars, and put the pickle upon it and tie it down. 
 
PICKLES. 351 
 
 1423. — CABBAGE, BED, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Quarter a purple red cabbage, cut out the stalk, then slice down 
 the cabbage endways ; put them, on a drying sieve, sprinkling each 
 layer of cabbage with salt, which lay and drain two or three days ; 
 then put it into a jar, boil some vinegar with spice tied up in a 
 muslin bag ; cut a beetroot of good colour into slices, the branches 
 of cauliflower cut off, after it has lain in salt, will look and be of a 
 beautiful red ; put it into an earthen jar, and pour the boiling vine- 
 gar over it. 
 
 1424. — CABBA.GE, WHITE, PICKLED. 
 
 Slice your cabbage thin, then lay it in salt for twenty-four hours, 
 strain it very dry, then put it in a stone jar with allspice, mace, 
 and vinegar, and pour it on boiling hot, tie it very close, repeat the 
 vinegar three times, and it will be fit for use. 
 
 1425. CABBAGE, PUEPLE, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Take two cauliflowers, two red cabbages, half a peck of kidney 
 beans, stick with six cloves of garlic on each stick, wash all well; 
 give them one boil up, then strain them in a sieve, lay them leaf 
 by leaf upon a large table and salt them with bay salt; then lay 
 them to dry in the sun, or in a slow oven, until as dry as cork. 
 
 1426. — CELERY, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Separate the stalks from the head, clean them thoroughly, and 
 put^them into salt and water strong enough to bear an egg; let 
 them remain in this for a week or ten days, or until wanted to 
 pickle ; then take them out, wash them well in clean water, drain 
 dry, place in a jar, and pour boiling vinegar over, to which any 
 approved spices may have been added. As is usual for pickling 
 keep it well covered with vinegar; if the celery is allowed to 
 remain a long time in salt and water, it will be necessary to soak it 
 in clean water for a day or two, changing the water occasionally. 
 
 1427. CUCUMBERS, YOUNG. 
 
 Choose nice young gherkins, lay them upon dishes, sprinkle salt 
 over them, let them lie a week, drain them off, and put them into 
 stone jars ; pour boiling white vinegar over them, place them near 
 the fire, cover them well with vine leaves, and if not a good green 
 pour off the vinegar and boil it again ; cover them with fresh vine 
 leaves and continue doing so until they are a good colour, as to 
 make a better green you must use a metal stewpan, or brass skillets, 
 which are very pernicious and poisonous. 
 
 Use wooden spoons with holes to dish all pickles, keeping them 
 always well covered and free from air getting to them. 
 
 1428. — CUCUMBEBS AND ONIONS TOGETHER. 
 
 To a dozen cucumbers put three large onions cut in thick slices ; 
 
352 PICKLES. 
 
 sprinkle salt over them ; next day drain them for some hours, then 
 put them into a stone jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, keep 
 them by side of the fire, repeat the boiling vinegar, keep in the 
 steam, and so on until green ; the last time put in your ginger and 
 pepper ; put it in small stone jars. 
 
 1429. EIDER BUDS PICKLED. 
 
 The elder buds should be gathered when they are about the size 
 of hop tops; put them into a strong brine of salt and water for nine 
 days, and stir them two or three times a day ; put them into a pan, 
 cover them with vine leaves, and pour over the water they came 
 out of. Set them over a slow fire till they become quite green, and 
 then make a pickle of them of allegar, made of sour ale, a little 
 mace, a few shalots, and some ginger sliced, boil this two or three 
 minutes and pour it upon the buds, then tie them down and keep 
 them in a very dry place. 
 
 1430. GHERKINS PICKLED. 
 
 Choose your gherkins very green and straight; brush and place a 
 layer in a pan, sprinkle them with fine salt, then another layer of 
 gherkins, which sprinkle with salt also, and continue this operation 
 until you have used nearly a bushel of gherkins ; leave them in the 
 salt for twenty-four hours, which will draw all the water from 
 them; at the end of that time drain and place them in a jar, with 
 a handful of allspice, the same of tarragon, a little balm, ten shalots, 
 six cloves of garlic, two or three long peppers, twenty cloves, a 
 lemon cut in quarters, and two small handfuls of salt. Boil two 
 gallons of the best vinegar a second time, and pour it on again the 
 following day, boil the vinegar for the third time, pour it over the 
 gherkins, and when quite cold cover the jar with a wet parchment. 
 
 1431. — GRAPES PICKLED. 
 
 The grapes must be at their full growth, but not ripe ; cut them 
 in bunches, put them in a jar with vine leaves between each layer 
 of grapes until the jar is filled ; then take as much spring water as 
 will cover the grapes and the leaves. As it heats put in as much salt 
 as will make a brine sufficiently strong to bear an egg, you may 
 use half bay salt and half common salt; when it boils skim it, 
 strain it through a flannel bag and let it stand to settle, by the 
 time it is cold it will be quite settled ; strain it a second time 
 through a flannel bag, then pour it into a jar upon the grapes, 
 which must be well covered; fill the jar with vine leaves, then tie it 
 over with a double cloth and set a plate upon it; let it stand for 
 two days, then take off the cloth, pour away the brine, then take 
 out the leaves and the grapes and lay them between two cloths to 
 dry, then take two quarts of vinegar, one quart of spring water 
 and one pound of coarse sugar, boil it for a short time and skim it 
 very clean as it boils ; let it stand till it is quite cold. Wipe the jar 
 very clean and dry, lay some fresh vine leaves at the . bottom 
 
pickles. 353: 
 
 between every bunch of grapes and on the topj then pour and 
 strain the pickle on the grapes, fill the jar, let the pickle be above* 
 the grapes, tie up a thin piece of board in a flannel, lay it on the 
 grapes to keep them under the pickle, tie them down with a 
 bladder, and over that a leather, always keeping the grapes under 
 the pickle. 
 
 1432. HERRINGS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Let the fish be well cleaned and gutted but not opened ; take 
 salt, pepper, mace, nutmeg, pound and mix these spices well, then 
 rub a pan with an onion, strew some of the spices over the bottom, 
 and put as many fish as will lie flat on the bottom, then put a layer 
 of sliced onions, and then fish, and so on alternately till the pan 
 be filled ; strew the pounded spice between each layer, pour over 
 the best vinegar so as to cover the whole, tie a brown paper over 
 the pan, and bake till the bones are soft. 
 
 Sprats and mackerel are likewise done in this way. 
 
 The heads and tails must be cut off. 
 
 1433. INDIA PICKLE. 
 
 Take one pound of ginger, put it into a pan with salt and water, 
 and let it lie all night, then scrape it and cut it into thin slices, put 
 it into a pan with half a pound of bay salt, and let it lie till all the 
 following ingredients are prepared ; a pound of garlic peeled, and 
 laid in salt for three days, then take it out, wash it, and let it lie in 
 salt for other three days, then take it out and let it lay in the sun 
 for another day till half dry; an ounce of long pepper, an ounce of 
 capsicum salted, and laid in the sun for three days, and a pint of 
 black mustard-seed bruised, half an ounce of turmeric beat very 
 small. Put all these ingredients together in a jar, then put in as 
 much vinegar as when the cabbage or what you intend to pickle 
 is put into it, the vinegar will rise to the top of the jar. Then take 
 cabbage, cauliflowers, or whatever you choose to pickle, and cut 
 them into small pieces, throw a good handful of salt over them, and 
 set them in the sun when it is very hot for three days ; drain the 
 water from them every day and fresh salt them again, turning the 
 leaves till they are dry, then put them into the pickle, being par- 
 ticular that they are completely covered with the vinegar ; tie it up 
 close, let it stand a fortnight, fill it again with more vinegar, 
 carefully watch it from time to time to fill it up with vinegar, as it 
 will waste very fast. 
 
 1434. — MUSHROOMS. 
 Use the close button mushrooms, rub them with a bit of flannel 
 or tammy cloth, throw a little salt over them, and put them into 
 a stewpan with a little lemon or vinegar, and a blade of mace, and 
 a few cloves, and whole white pepper, keeping them well shaken ; 
 then keeping it on the fire until all the liquor is absorbed into the 
 mushrooms again, then put as much white vinegar in your stewpan, 
 
 A A 
 
354 PICKLES. 
 
 sufficient to cover them, give it a warm, then put them into bottled 
 or jars. 
 
 1435. — MUSHROOMS, PICKLED. 
 
 Boil them in milk, then wipe them dry with a flannel, boil some 
 vinegar with mace, nutmeg, and ginger, and let it stand till cold, 
 then put it to the mushrooms, and bottle it ; when bottled pour in 
 a little sweet oil before tying on the bladders. 
 
 1436. — MUSHROOMS, TO PICKLE, WHITE. 
 
 Cut off the stalks of some small button mushrooms, rub the skins 
 off with a flannel dipped in salt, and then throw them into milk 
 and water, drain them out, and put them into a stewpan, strewing 
 over them a handful of salt, cover them close, and put them over a 
 gentle, stove for five minutes to draw out all the water, then put 
 them on a coarse cloth to drain till they are cold. 
 
 1437- MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 
 
 Put a quantity of large natural mushrooms into an earthen pan, 
 and break them up small, sprinkle salt over them, let them lie for 
 several days, mixing them up each day, then let them stand about 
 a week and not stir them until a thick scum rises on the top; then 
 strain the liquor from the mushrooms, boil the liquor with some 
 peppercorns, mace, ginger, cloves, and some mustard seed tied in 
 a muslin bag ; when cold, bottle it, leave the spice in, bottle it, 
 and cork it up tight, and in three' months or so, boil it all up again, 
 and when cold, bottle it. It will now keep for years. 
 
 1438. — NASTURTIUMS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Immediately the blossoms are off, and the knobs formed, gather 
 them, and lay them in cold salt and water, changing the salt and 
 water three days successively ; make a cold pickle of white wine 
 vinegar, a little sherry wine, shalot, pepper, cloves, mace, nutmegs 
 cut in quarters, and horseradish cut small ; into this pickle put the 
 nasturtiums. In three months they will be ready for eating. 
 
 1439. — NEAT'S TONGUE, PICKLED. 
 
 Take neats' tongues that look red out of the pickle, cut off the 
 roots, and let the tongues boil till the skin comes off easily; season 
 them, salt, pepper, and cloves, and nutmeg, rubbing it well into 
 them while hot, then put them into a pan, cover them with melted 
 butter, bake them, when they are done pour off the butter, keeping 
 back the gravy, put them into a fresh pan, and cover with butter 
 an inch thick. 
 
 1440. — ONIONS, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Peel the onions till they look white, boil some strong salt and 
 
PICKLES. 355 
 
 water, and pour it over them, let them stand in this twenty-four 
 hours; keep the vessel closely covered to retain the steam, after that 
 time wipe the onions quite dry, and when they are cold, pour boil- 
 ing vinegar, with ginger, and' white pepper over them ; take care 
 the vinegar always covers the onions. 
 
 1441. ONIONS, PICKLED. 
 
 Get the small button onions, which are ready about September ; 
 blanch them and peel them, fill a tin stewpan, and cover them with 
 water, and in a few minutes scald them, take them out and lay 
 them in a cloth and cover them, let them get cold, put them in 
 glasses or bottles ; boil some very good white vinegar, let it stand 
 off the fire a few minutes, then pour it upon the onions, and when 
 quite cold cover them, then, should the outer skin shrivel, take it 
 off, as they should appear quite clear. 
 
 1442. — PLUMS, TO PICKLE LIKE OLIVES. 
 
 Take the plums before they are quite ripe, and put them into a 
 saucepan with some white wine vinegar, salt water, fennel seed, 
 and dill, as much of each as will impart a flavour to the pickle ; 
 when it boils put in the plums, let it boil again, then take it off, 
 let it stand till cold, then put them into jars. 
 
 •' 1443. QUINCE, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Pare and cut half a dozen quinces into small pieces, and put 
 them with a gallon of water and two pounds of honey into a large 
 saucepan, mix them together well, and set them on a slow fire for 
 half an hour, strain ths liquor into a jar, when quite cold wipe the 
 quinces perfectly dry, and put them into it, cover them very close. 
 
 1444 SAMPHIEE, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Lay some samphire that is green in a pan, sprinkle over it some 
 salt and cover it with spring water, and let it lie for twenty-four 
 hours ; then put it into a large brass saucepan, throw in a handful 
 of salt, cover the pan close, and set it over a very slow fire ; let it 
 stand till it is quite green and crisp, then take it off, for if it 
 becomes soft, it is spoiled, put it into a jar, cover it close, and when 
 it is cold tie it down. 
 
 1445. — TOMATO KETCHUP. 
 
 Take tomatoes when full ripe, bake them in a jar till tender, 
 strain them, and rub them through a sieve. To every pound of 
 juice, add a pint of Chili vinegar, an ounce of shalots, half an ounce 
 of garlic, both sliced, a quarter of an ounce of salt, and a quarter of 
 an ounce of white pepper finely powdered; boil the whole till 
 every ingredient is soft, rub it again through the sieve ; to every 
 pound add the juice of three lemons; boil it again to the consist- 
 
 A A 2 
 
356 PICKLES. 
 
 ence of cream ; when, cold bottle it, put a small quantity of sweet 
 oil on each, tie bladders oyer, and keep it in a dry place. 
 
 1446. TONGUE, TO PICKLE. 
 
 Take a fine neat's tongue and put it into the following pickle, — 
 four gallons of water, four pounds of common salt, the same of bay 
 salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, two ounces of salt-prunella, 
 one ounce of alum, and a pound of coarse sugar ; boil them toge- 
 ther, skimming it well, lay in the tongue, let it remain ten days, 
 turning it two or three times in that period. Dry the tongue by a 
 ■wood fire. 
 
 1447. TONGUES, PICKLE FOR. 
 
 Half a pound of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of bay salt, the 
 same of moist sugar, three pounds of common salt, and two gallons 
 of soft water, boil the whole together, and skim it well ; when cold 
 pour it over the tongue ; this pickle will not want boiling again for 
 six weeks. 
 
 ; 1448. — "WALNUT ketchup. ■ .: • "! 
 
 Boil gently a gallon of the expressed juice of young green wal- 
 nuts, skim it well, then put into it a pound of anchovies, bones, and 
 liquor, one ounce of cloves, two or three dozen of shalots, one ounce 
 of mace, one ounce of pepper, one ounce of garlic, let it all boil until 
 'the shalots sink ; then place the liquor into a pan until cold, then 
 bottle it, dividing the spice equally in each bottle ; cork it close, 
 and bladder over the corks. This is not fit for use in less than a 
 twelvemonth. 
 
 1449. WALNUTS, PICKLED. 
 
 When they will bear a pin to go into them, prick them all over ; 
 put a brine of salt and water on to boil, strong enough for an egg 
 to swim on the top when quite cold ; when it is boiling skim it", 
 pour it over the walnuts, let them lie a week, then change the 
 •brine, let them stand- several more days, then strain them off, have 
 ready boiled some strong white vinegar, with spice boiled in it, and 
 plenty of pepper and mustard seeds, and horseradish, all well 
 boiled together ; put to get cold, a few shalots and plenty of mus- 
 tard seeds, then put them into jars or bottles. They will be several 
 months before fit to use ; keep them covered. 
 
 1450. WALNUTS PICKLED. 
 
 Put a hundred of large double walnuts into a stone jar, take four 
 ounces of black pepper, one ounce of Jamaica pepper, two ounces 
 of ginger, one ounce of cloves, a pint of mustard seed, and boil 
 'them in as much vinegar as is sufficient to cover the walnuts; when 
 cold pour it over the walnuts, in two days boil the pickle again, 
 
PICKLES. 357 
 
 pour it to the •walnuts immediately, cover them close, and repeat- 
 this for three days. 
 
 1451. WALNUT PICKLE. 
 
 Lay your walnuts in water, and change it every day for the 
 space of three weeks to extract all the bitterness from them ; make 
 a pickle with spice, salt, and 'vinegar, let it boil a quarter of an 
 hour, and pour over the walnuts. 
 
 1452. TO MAKE CHILI, TAEBAGON, CAPSICUM, GAELIC, ESCHALOT, OR 
 
 ANY OTHER VINEGAR. 
 
 To two quarts of vinegar add three ounces of chilis, or tarragon, 
 or any other of the above-named condiments, bottle and cork down 
 closely; let it remain four weeks, strain, and refill the bottle with the 
 clear vinegar, cork down, it is now ready for use, the chilis, &c, may 
 be used a second time. 
 
358 CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 CAKES, BUNS, BICTJITS, BEEAD, ETC. 
 
 REQUISITE INFORMATION FOR MAKING AND BAKING CAKES. 
 
 Currants are so frequently used in cakes that you should he very 
 particular in having them nicely washed, dried, and all sticks and 
 stones taken from them, and then put before the fire to dry, as, if 
 damp, they will make cakes and puddings heavy ; therefore, before 
 you use them dust a little flour lightly over them. 
 
 Eggs should be always a long time beaten, the whites and yolks 
 separate, taking out the tread. 
 
 Sugar should be well pounded and sifted through a drum or lawn 
 sieve, and kept well dried. 
 
 Lemon peel should be either rubbed on sugar or grated fine, if so, 
 sprinkle some sifted sugar amongst it to keep it a good colour. 
 
 The lightness of all cakes depends upon the whipping of them, and 
 at last being well incorporated. 
 
 If you use yeast to your cakes they will require less butter and 
 eggs, and will eat almost equally as light and rich; but if the leaven 
 be only of milk, flour, and water, it becomes more tough than if the 
 butter was at first put with the ingredients, and the dough set to rise 
 by the fire. 
 
 The heat of your oven is of particular importance for baking cakes 
 or pastry — more particularly large cakes — as at first, if not pretty 
 brisk, they will not rise ; then, if likely to brown too quick at the 
 top, put a piece of paper upon the top of the cake so not to touch 
 the batter. It should be lighted some time before hand, so as to have 
 a good solid body of heat. To know when your cake is done you 
 wiU see in another place in the book. If the oven is not hot enough, 
 add more fire into it. 
 
 Bread and tea-cakes made with milk eat best when new, as they 
 become stale sooner than others. 
 
 Never keep your bread or cakes in wooden boxes or drawers, but 
 in tin boxes or earthen pans, with covers. 
 
 1453. — CRUST, SHORT AND RICH, BUT NOT SWEET.' 
 
 To eight ounces of fine flour rub in well six ounces of butter, 
 make it into a stiflish paste with a little water; beat it well, roll it 
 thin, and bake it in a moderate oven.' 
 
CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 359 
 
 1454. CEUST, SHORT. 
 
 Take two ounces of white sugar, pound, sift, and dry it, mix it 
 with a pound of well-dried flour, rubbing well into it three ounces of 
 butter ; put the yolks of two eggs into some cream, and then mix 
 the whole into a smooth paste, roll it out thin, and bake it in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 1455. — ALMOND, SMALL, CAKES. 
 
 Take half a pound of blanched almonds, beat them to a paste 
 with white of eggs, add three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, 
 one of orange flowers pralinee, and two ounces of cream ; take some 
 very thin puff paste, cut into small squares, and put a portion of the 
 above mixture on each ; moisten the edges, cover them with puff 
 paste, dorez, prick and bake them in a hot oven; whenjlone ice them 
 with sugar. 
 
 1456. BANBURY CAKES. 
 
 Press in a little dough (with a pound of flour) two table-spoonfuls 
 of thick yeast, and a gill of warm milk; let it work a little, then add 
 half a pound of currants washed and picked, half a pound of candied 
 orange and lemon peel cut small, and a quarter of an ounce each of 
 nutmeg, ginger, and allspice ; mix the whole together with half a 
 pound of honey, and put into puff paste cut in an oval shape ; cover 
 and sift sugar over. Bake them fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 1457- ALMOND ICING, FOE CAKES. 
 
 Take equal parts of blanched sweet almonds and loaf sugar, pound 
 them fine in a mortar, pass the whole through a moderately coarse 
 wire sieve ; then mix the whole into a paste of moderate consistence 
 with the yolks of eggs, and spread over the top of the cake after it 
 is baked; dry the almond icing before the fire or in a very cool oven, 
 and when it is cold ice the cake with the sugar icing. 
 
 1458. — BABA. 
 Take three pounds of flour, one quarter of which set apart and 
 mix into .dough, with a gill of good yeast and a little warm water; 
 cover it close in a stewpan and set it by the fire to rise, when you 
 see the dough rise and nearly ready, form the other parts of the 
 flour in a circle on the table, in which put half an ounce of salt, 
 one ounce of sugar, a half pound of butter and twelve eggs and a 
 table-spoon of saffron ; mix the butter and eggs well together 
 hefore you put it to the flour ; when it is all mixed spread it out 
 and put the dough to it and knead it well. When the yeast is nearly 
 mixed in add two pounds of raisins stoned, a few at a time, have 
 ready two copper moulds buttered, and put three parts full of dough 
 and set in a warm place to rise very gently, when raised to the top 
 of the mould bake in a hot oven; a brick oven is best. 
 
360 CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 
 
 1459.— BABA — ANOTHER RECEIPT. 
 
 Take the fourth part of two pounds of flour, lay it on a paste- 
 board or slab and make a hole in the middle and put in the yeast, 
 work it up with one hand, while with the other you pour in warm 
 water; make it into a soft paste and put it into a wooden bowl, first 
 prick it in a few places and cover it and let it stand. "When it has 
 risen well take the remainder of the flour and spread it on the first 
 made paste; mix them well together, adding to them half an ounce 
 of salt, six eggs, a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of stoned 
 raisins* two ounces of currants, half a glass of Malaga wine, a 
 little saffron in powder. Work them up together well, roll it out 
 three or four times and let it stand for six hours, then butter a 
 mould, pour in your mixture and bake it. 
 
 1460. BRIDE CAKE. 
 
 To four pounds of the best wheaten flour add four pounds of the 
 best fresh butter, two pounds of the best white sugar, pounded and 
 sifted fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and the same quantity of 
 nutmegs; to every pound of flour put eight eggs; wash and thoroughly 
 pick four pounds of currants, dry them well, blanch a pound of sweet 
 almonds. and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of citron, a 
 pound of candied orange, the same quantity of candied lemon, and 
 half a pint of brandy. Having thus prepared your ingredients work 
 the butter to a cream with your hands, beat in the sugar for ten 
 minutes, then beat your whites of eggs to a very strong froth; mix 
 them with your sugar and butter, beat the yolks well for about 
 twenty minutes, not a minute less, and mix them with your cake. 
 Now put in your flour, mace, and nutmeg, keep beating it until your 
 oven is quite ready to receive it, pour in your brandy, whip the 
 currants and almonds lightly in, tie round the bottom of your hoop 
 throe sheets of paper, to keep it from running out, rub it well with 
 butter, put in your cake and the sweetmeats in three layers, with 
 cake between every layer; after it is risen and coloured cover it with 
 paper, before your oven is closed; it will take three hours baking. 
 
 1461. BRIBE CAKE ANOTHER WAY. 
 
 One pound and a half of fine sugar, three pounds and a half of 
 currants, one pound of butter, two pounds of flour, half a pound of 
 peels, half a pound of cut almonds, three ounces of spices, the grating 
 of three lemons, eighteen eggs, two gills of rum ; paper your hoop 
 which for this mixture you will require to be large; bake in a 
 moderate oven, it will take some hours, when cold ice it. See "Icing 
 for Cakes." 
 
 1462. BREAKFAST OR TEA CAKES, HOT. 
 
 Put about six handfuls of flower in a basin, about half-a-pint of 
 new milk, a small piece of butter; warm the milk, and mind hotter 
 in winter than in summer; mix in a cup two ounces of German 
 yeast with a little cold water, mix the yeast with the milk and 
 
CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 361 
 
 butter, make a hole in the flour, pour the mixed milk and yeast into 
 it, stirring it round until it is a thick batter j beat up one egg and 
 mix into it, cover it over and keep it warm in your screen; when it 
 has risen a little mix it into a dough, knead it well, put it again in 
 the screen, and when it has risen a good deal, take and form your 
 rolls. They will take nearly half an hour or according to the size 
 you make the cakes, rub them over while hot with your paste brush 
 dipped in milk. 
 
 1463. BORDEAUX CAKE. 
 
 Pound cake, with alternate layers of preserves, with jam on the 
 top. 
 
 1464. DIET BREAD CAKE. 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of sugar, three quarters of a pound of 
 flour, and eight eggs; put your sugar and eggs together into a basin 
 or paD, with half a pint of lukewarm water ; beat them all well up 
 with a whisk the same as for sponge cakes, over a slow fire until quite 
 warm, take them from the fire and whip them until cold, add the 
 grating of one lemon, then mix in the flour lightly, adding some 
 carraway seeds if they are liked; do not fill your moulds, they 
 should be square paper cases buttered. 
 
 "". • 1465. BUTTER CAKES. 
 
 Form with your hands a dish of butter into a cream, add two 
 pounds of sifted sugar, three pounds of dried flour, and two dozen 
 eggs, leaving out half the whites, then beat altogether for an hour. 
 Previous to baking it, you may add some seeds and currants, an 
 ounce of mace, a nutmeg, and a little brandy. 
 
 1466. — BISCUITS OF ANY KIND OP FRUIT. 
 
 To the pulp of any scalded fruit put the same weight of sugar, 
 beat them both well together for two hours, then make them into forms, 
 or put them in paper cases, and dry them in a cool oven, turn them 
 the next day, and let them remain until quite dry, then put them in 
 boxes. 
 
 1467-— BISCUITS, DEVILLED. 
 
 Dip one into boiling water, butter it well, spread it over with ready 
 made mustard, cayenne pepper, a good deal of black pepper, and 
 salt; rub them well into the biscuit, put it in the oven, or on the 
 gridiron to brown. 
 
362 CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BBEAD, ETC. 
 
 1468. — FOWLS AND MEAT, 
 
 May be done in the same way, only score the leg of a fowl or 
 turkey, and in the nicks put cayenne pepper and mustard, and some 
 salt and black pepper. 
 
 1469. BISCUITS, ORANGE. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of flour, three quarters of a pound of 
 powdered sugar, six fresh eggs, and the rind of an orange grated, beat 
 them in a mortar to paste, and bake in cases like other biscuits; 
 
 1470.— BISCUITS, SAVOY. 
 
 The mixture is the same, with an addition of a spoonful or two 
 more of flour to be added, this is squeezed through a bag and pipe in 
 rows, on sugared paper, very quickly done, and then sugar the tops, 
 bake in a quick oven ; when done wet your dresser and draw the 
 paper from the baking sheet on to the wet dresser; let it lie until the 
 cakes will be easily removed, sticking one on the other. 
 
 1471 . — CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Cut your paste and fill the pans as in receipt 1077> have ready 
 prepared this mixture, break three yolks of eggs and one white into a 
 basin, a little powdered sugar, a grating of a lemon, the juice of a 
 lemon, a few bread crumbs or crumbed stale pound cake, an ounce 
 of clarified butter, mix all well together; add half a gill of cream, put 
 a spoonful in each tartlet pan; you must press the paste the form of 
 the pan. 
 
 1 472. — CHEESECAKES. 
 
 Take the curd of three quarts of milk, a pound of currants, twelve 
 ounces of Lisbon sugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, the same 
 quantity of nutmeg, and the peel of a lemon chopped to a paste, the 
 yolks of eight and the whites of six eggs, a pint of scalded cream and 
 a pint of brandy; mix them all together, put a light thin puff paste 
 into your patty pans and half fill them. 
 
 1473. — CHEESECAKES, COMMON. 
 
 Put a quart of milk on the fire, when it boils add eight eggs well 
 beaten; stir them till they become a curd, then pour it out, and when 
 it is cold put in three quarters of a pound of currants well washed, 
 two spoonfuls of rose water and a little salt ; make a puff paste and 
 put in the mixture. If you bake them in the patties it will be 
 necessary to butter the patties to enable you to turn them out ; but if 
 you bake in glass or china, only an upper crust will be necessary, as 
 you can send them to table without taking them out. 
 
 1474. — CHEESECAKES DE ST. DENIS. 
 
 "With a fresh cream cheese (curds) mix a spoonful of flour, a little 
 salt, four eggs, bake it in good puff paste coloured with the yolk of 
 eggs ; it may be served either hot or cold. 
 
CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 363 
 
 1475. CHEESECAKES A LA DUC DE GUISE. 
 
 Make a paste of a quart of the best flour, rub into it a pound of 
 butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar from which all lumps hare been 
 removed, add two tea-spoonfuls of orange flower water; work this 
 into a fine even paste, lay it in patty pans. For the curd take the 
 yolk of twelve eggs, beat in a pint of very thick cream, when the 
 cream boils up put in the eggs, take it off, put it in a cloth over a 
 cullender; whey some new milk with rennet for the other curd; 
 when you temper them together take a pound of currants, three 
 quarters of a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, a quarter of an 
 ounce of grated nutmeg, four spoonfuls of rose water, and then bake 
 quickly. 
 
 1476. — CHEESECAKES, APPLE. 
 
 Take twelve apples, pare, core, and boil in sufficient water to wash 
 them; beat them very smooth, add six yolks of eggs, the juice of 
 two lemons, some grated lemon peel, half a pound of fresh butter 
 beaten to a cream, and sweetened with powdered sugar; beat in with 
 the apples, bake in a puff crust, and serve open. 
 
 1477- CHEESECAKES, ALMOND. 
 
 Take four ounces of blanched almonds, mixed with a few bitter, 
 beat them with a spoonful of water, add four ounces of powdered 
 sugar, a spoonful of cream, and the whites of two eggs well beaten; 
 mix them quickly, put into small patty pans and bake for twenty 
 minutes in a moderately warm oven. 
 
 1478. — Cheesecakes, bread/ 
 Take a French roll, slice it very thin, pour over it some boiling 
 cream, allow it to cool and then add six or eight eggs, half a pound 
 of butter melted, a spoonful of brandy, half a pound of currants, 
 some nutmeg, and a little sugar ; put them in puff-paste, the same 
 as other cheesecakes. 
 
 1479. — cheesecakes, citron. 
 Take a pint of cream, boil it, and whentiold mix it with two eggs 
 well beaten ; then boil them together, until they become a curd. Put 
 in a few blanched almonds beaten in a mortar with a little orange 
 flower water, add some Naples biscuits and green citron chopped 
 very small. Sweeten, and bake in tins. 
 
 1480. CHEESECAKES, LEMON. 
 
 Take four ounces of sifted lump sugar, and the same quantity of 
 butter; melt them slowly, add the yolks of two and the white of one 
 egg, a Savoy biscuit, some blanched almonds, the rind of three 
 lemons shred fine, and the juice of one lemon and a half, and three 
 spoonfuls of brandy; mix all well together, then make a paste with 
 
364 CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 
 
 eight ounces of flour, and six ounces of butter, mixing four ounces 
 of it with the flour first, then wet it with six spoonfuls of water, 
 and roll in the remainder of the butter ; put the ingredients to this 
 paste and bake it. 
 
 1481. CHEESECAKES, ORANGE. 
 
 Take eight ounces of blanched almonds, beat them very fine with 
 orange-flower water, melt a pound of butter carefully without oiling 
 (let it be nearly cold before using it for the cheesecakes) ; beat and 
 sift half a pound of sugar, beat the yolks of ten and the whites of 
 four eggs, pound one fresh and two candied oranges (previously boiled 
 to draw out the bitterness) in a mortar till as soft as marmalade, 
 without any lumps ; these mix altogether, and put into patty pans. 
 
 1482. CHERRY CAKES. 
 
 Take a pound of tart paste, cut it in half, roll it out thin, drop on 
 the paste preserved cherries cut into small pieces, egg them round 
 carefully, turn the paste over them and press them together gently, 
 then cut it into half circles with a gigging iron, prick and wash them 
 over with egg, place them on a well-buttered tin, and bake them in a 
 quick oven. 
 
 1483. CINNAMON CAKES. 
 
 Beat up six eggs with three table-spoonfuls of rose-water ; put to it 
 a pound of sifted sugar, a dessert-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, 
 and enough flour to form it into a paste ; roll it out thin, and cut it 
 into any shape you please, place them on paper, and bake them. 
 Remove them from the paper when done. Keep them dry. 
 
 1484. — CURRANT CAKES. 
 
 Take two quarts of currants, red or white, pick and wash them, 
 boil them in a pint of water : then run the juice through a jelly-bag, 
 taking care not to press the bag ; boil up the juice, strewing in three 
 pounds of sugar to a quart of juice ; pour it into glasses, dry it in a 
 stone till it will turn out, then dry the cakes on plates. 
 
 1485.— CARRAWAY CAKES. 
 
 Mix a pound of flour with a pound of fresh butter, add a spoonful 
 of yeast, four spoonfuls of rose water, the yolks of three eggs, four 
 ounces of sugar, some carraways and ambergris, make all into a paste, 
 bake it and when done sprinkle it with powdered sugar. 
 
 1486. CURD CAKES. 
 
 Mix eight eggs (leaving out four whites) with a quart of curds, 
 add sugar sufficient to sweeten, grated nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of 
 flour, mix well together; heat in a frying-pan some butter, and drop 
 in the curd, frying like fritters. 
 
CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 365 
 
 1487. CAKE, BREAKFAST. 
 
 To half a peck of flour rub in a pound and a half of butter ; add 
 three pounds of currants, half a pound of sugar, a quarter of an 
 ounce of nutmeg, mace and cinnamon together, a little salt, a pint 
 and a half of warmed cream or milk, a quarter of a pint of brandy, 
 a pint of good ale yeast, and five eggs ; mix all these well 
 together, and bake in a moderate oven. This cake will keep good 
 for three months. 
 
 1488. FAMILY CAKE. 
 
 To six ounces of rice and the same quantity of wheat flour add 
 half a pound of lump sugar pounded and sifted, nine eggs, and half 
 an ounce of carraway seeds ; beat this up for an hour and bake it for 
 the same time in a quick oven. This cake is very suitable for young 
 people and weak stomachs. 
 
 1489. — GENOISES 
 
 Is the same process as the Savoy cake; add to it, very gently and well 
 stirred in, a gill of thick cream. As this is for cutting, and to be 
 iced and ornamented, you need not sugar the top, put it into long 
 inch deep moulds well buttered, and bake directly, turn it over, and 
 it will fall out when baked enough, a nice light brown. 
 
 1490. — GOOSEBERRY CAKES. 
 
 Press the juice out of some gooseberries, and strain it through a 
 muslin, boil it up; strew in a pound of sugar to each pint of juice; 
 stir it well, and. simmer it till the sugar is melted; pour it into 
 glasses, dry it in a stove till it will turn out, and then dry the cakes 
 on plates. 
 
 1491. — LEMON CAKE. 
 
 To the whites of ten eggs add three spoonfuls of rose or orange 
 flower water, whisk them for an hour, then put in a pound of sifted 
 sugar, and grate in the rind of a lemon ; mix them well, and add 
 the yolks of ten eggs beaten smooth, and the juice of half a lemon; 
 then stir in three quarters of a pound of flour, put the mixture in 
 a buttered pan, and bake it in a moderate oven for an hour. 
 
 1492. MACAROONS. 
 
 Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, dry them well, then pound 
 them fine in the mortar; add three whites of eggs, then one pound of 
 sugar sifted through a drum or lawn sieve ; mix it well together for 
 ten minutes, take it all out from the mortar, have ready your baking 
 hoards or sheets, covered with wafer paper. For Italian macaroons 
 you will form them round with slices of almonds upon the top of 
 each ; if for English, oval, and sift sugar upon the top of them, bake 
 them in a moderate oven. 
 
366 CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BKEAD, ETC. 
 1493. MACAROONS. 
 
 To a pound of sweet almonds, blanched and nicely pounded with 
 a little rose water to prevent their oiling, add a pound of sifted 
 sugar, the whites of ten eggs whisked to a solid froth; beat all 
 together for some time, place some wafer paper on tin plates, drop 
 the mixture on it in drops the size of a shilling or smaller, sprinkle 
 oyer them a little sugar, and bake them. 
 
 1494. — MACAROONS, SPICED. 
 
 Take a pound of sweet almonds, and two pounds of sifted sugar; 
 prepare the paste in the usual way, add a spoonful of powdered 
 cinnamon, six pounded cloves, a spoonful of preserved lemon, and 
 the same of orange peel chopped small, and the rind of two lemons 
 grated ; ^ mix all together in a mortar, lay out the macaroons as 
 before directed, and bake them carefully. 
 
 1495. — POUND CAKE. 
 Take a pound of sifted sugar, and a pound of fresh butter, mix 
 them with the hand ten minutes and put to them nine yolks and five 
 whites of eggs well beaten ; work all together and add a pound of 
 sifted flour, some carraway seeds, four ounces of candied orange peel 
 cut into slices, a few currants well cleaned; mix all together very 
 lightly. 
 
 1496. POUND CAKES, PLUM OK PLAIN. 
 
 Equal quantity of sugar, butter, flour, and eggs, allowing to all 
 cakes eight to a pound, a grating of lemon, and a few grains of grated 
 nutmeg ; have a basin made pretty warm, put in your butter, and 
 with your hand whip up the butter until it comes to the thickness 
 of cream, then put in your sugar, and lemon, and nutmeg, keep 
 whipping it; have your eggs beat up, then add them by degrees to 
 your sugar and butter, take care it does not curdle, then whip in 
 your fltfur; from this mixture you can make several sorts of small 
 cakes, with a little variation in each mixture. For queen cakes some 
 currants, and a spoonful more flour; for champaignes a few carraway 
 seeds, and two spoonfuls of flour ; for queen's drops the same, but 
 add currants, have different basins for each mixture ; in the same 
 way you may add whatever flavour you like, and make them what 
 shape you like ; champaignes are like a quarter of an orange, made 
 in a long frame,; queen cakes in moulds, buttered; drops, on buttered 
 paper, a moderate oven will bake them ; pound cakes in hoops, pre- 
 pared. 
 
 1497. — A GOOD PLUM CAKE. 
 
 An equal weight of butter and flour, a quarter of a pound of cut 
 peels and citron, double the weight of butter in currants, the grating 
 of three lemons, and half a nutmeg, half an ounce of pudding spice 
 two glasses of ram, and the same quantity of eggs as the weight in 
 
CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 367 
 
 butter; beat your butter as for a pound cake, put a few chopped 
 sweet almonds. Paper and butter a hoop, bottom and sides, then put 
 m your mixture ; bake in a slow oven for some time, try it if done as 
 you did the Savoy cake, take off the hoop when done, but not the 
 paper. 
 
 1498. QUINCE CAKES. 
 
 Take six quinces, pare, core, and boil them till quite soft, then rub 
 the pulp through a sieve and strain it. To this add half a pint of 
 syrup of quinces, the same of syrup of barberries, and a quarter of a 
 pound of fine sugar; boil the whole to casse, and pour it into shallow 
 moulds ; let them stand a short time, and then dry them in a stove. 
 
 1499. BASPBERRY CAKES. 
 
 Take some raspberries not quite ripe, pick, and place them in a 
 Stove to dry, then beat them in a mortar. Take a pound and a 
 quarter of fine sugar, clarify, and boil it to a syrup, then put half a 
 pound of the dried raspberries into the syrup with half a spoonful of 
 ■white of egg beaten in cream, stir it carefully, just boil it, and pour 
 it into moulds or paper cases. 
 
 1500. BOUT CAKES. 
 
 Take the same quantity of ground almonds as fine, sifted sugar, 
 a few grains of nutmeg, a little grated lemon peel, dry it well up 
 into a stiffish paste ; work it well, if too stiff it will crack; then add a 
 trifle more yolk of egg ; the patterns you will see by" those at the 
 confectioner's, but you should see them formed ; no cutters are used, 
 they must be made a day or two; after they are formed let them stand 
 on sugared paper upon your baking sheet, bake them in a quick oven, 
 a few minutes will do them. 
 
 1501. — RICE CAKE. 
 
 Mix six ounces of ground rice, the same quantity of flour, three 
 quarters of a pound of fine sugar sifted, nine eggs (the yolks and 
 whites beaten separately), grate in the rind of a lemon, and beat it 
 well half an hour. 
 
 . 1502. — RICE POUND CAKES. 
 
 Four ounces of flour, eight ounces of butter, six eggs, twelve 
 ounces of sugar, eight ounces of ground rice, the peel of a lemon, if 
 you like, which improves it. Or thirty drops of essence of lemon. 
 
 1503. — SPONGE CAKE. 
 
 Weigh ten eggs, take their weight in very fine sugar, and the 
 weight of six in flour, beat the yolks with the flour, and the whites 
 
368 CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 
 
 alone, to a strong froth, then gradually mix the whites ■with the 
 other ingredients and beat them well half an hour; bake an hour in 
 a quick oven. 
 
 1504. SAYOY CAKE. 
 
 Keep your cake moulds for the use of cakes only ; clarify some 
 butter, and when nearly cold with a stiff brush grease your mould 
 very smooth the same way; be sure you do not omit any part. When 
 you have with great care buttered it complete, put into the mould- a 
 handful of fine sifted sugar, shake it well about the mould, then 
 knock all that does not stick to the mould out on paper; if it should 
 be a mould that will not stand set it in some sand on your baking 
 sheet, then get ready the things for your cake. For a high large Savoy 
 cake break twelve eggs in a large basin, weigh out the weight in 
 sifted sugar of nine eggs, and flour dried and sifted the weight of six 
 eggs, put to the sugar the grating of three lemons, then whip with 
 your whisk over a slow fire the twelve eggs for about a quarter of an 
 hour, take it off the fire, put in your sugar and lemon peel, continue 
 whipping it fast until cold, about a quarter of an hour longer, then 
 gently mix in your flour ; when well stirred in, three parts fill your 
 mould ; put it directly into a moderate oven, you will know when it is 
 done by thrusting your knife or a clean skewer down the middle, and 
 if it comes out clean it is done. If you have any left, butter some 
 sponge biscuit moulds and fill them with it, sifting when full some 
 sugar over the top, not too thick, tnrn them gently over and they 
 will drop out when done. 
 
 1505. TWELFTH CAKE. 
 
 In the centre of six pounds of flour make an opening; set a sponge 
 with a gill and a half of yeast, and a, little warm milk; put round it 
 a pound of fresh butter in small lumps, a pound and a quarter of 
 sifted sugar, four pounds and a half of currants, half an ounce of 
 sifted cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of pounded cloves, mace, and 
 nutmeg mixed, and sliced candied orange and lemon peel, and citron; 
 when risen mix all together with a little warm milk, prepare the 
 hoops as in a bride cake, fill and bake ; when nearly cold ice them 
 over with sugar. 
 
 1506. YORKSHIRE CAKES. 
 
 Mix two pounds gf flour with four ounces of butter melted in a 
 pint of milk, three spoonfuls of yeast, and two eggs; beat all together, 
 let it rise, knead it, make it into cakes, place them on tins, let them 
 rise and then bake in a slow oven. * 
 
 1507- TO MAKE WAFERS. 
 
 Take fine flour dried and sifted, make it into a smooth thin batter 
 with very good milk or a little cream and water, add about as much 
 white wine as will make it thick enough for pancakes ; sweeten it 
 with a little loaf sugar. When thus prepared have the wafer irons 
 
CAKES,' BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 369 
 
 made ready, by being heated over a charcoal fire, rub the irons with 
 a piece of linen cloth dipped in butter, then pour a spoonful of the 
 batter upon them and close them almost immediately, turn them 
 upon the fire, pare the edges with a knife as some of the batter will 
 ooze out. A short time will bake them. When the irons are 
 properly heated the wafers must be curled round while warm. 
 
 1508. — RATAFIAS. 
 Blanch half a pound of bitter almonds and half a pound of sweet ; 
 take off the skins the day before, pound them together very fine, add 
 two pounds of very fine sugar to them, and about eight whites of 
 e gg s , keat it well for a quarter of an hour in your mortar, take it out 
 and squeeze, it through a bladder and a pipe ; squeeze them the size 
 of a six-pence upon kitchen paper, bake them in a moderate oven, a 
 light brown colour; let them get cold before you take them off the 
 paper. 
 
 1509. — BUNS. 
 
 Three pounds of flour, half a pound of butter put into the warm 
 milk, half a pound of moist sugar made fine, two ounces of German 
 yeast dissolved in a cup of cold water ; add it to a pint and a half of 
 new milk and the butter made warm ; make a hole in your flour 
 which should be in a pan, and then pour in the milk, butter, and 
 yeast ; stay it in until of a thick batter, cover it over and stand it in 
 the warm, do not let it work too much; then mix it into a dough 
 quite smooth, stand it again in the warm, and when it has risen work 
 up and form your buns. Grease your baking sheets, then put them 
 in the warm to prove ; you must be sure to have the oven ready for 
 them, when baked have ready a little milk and sugar mixed which 
 you will brush quickly over the buns. 
 
 1510. BATH BUNS. 
 
 Hub with the hand one pound of fine flour and half a pound of 
 butter, beat six eggs and add them to the flour with a table-spoonful 
 of good yeast; mix them together with half a tea-cupful of milk, set it 
 on a warm place for an hour; mix in six ounces of sifted sugar, and 
 a few carraway seeds, mould them into buns with a table-spoon on 
 a baking plate, throw six or eight carraway comfits on each, and 
 bake them in a hot oven about ten minutes. These quantities should 
 make eighteen buns. 
 
 1511. — BUNS, COMMON. 
 
 Rub four ounces of butter into two pounds of flour, a little salt, 
 four ounces of sugar, a dessert-spoonful of carraways, and a tea- 
 spoonful of ginger; put some warm milk or cream to four table- 
 spoonfuls of yeast, mix all together into a paste, but not too stiff, 
 cover it over and set it before the fire an hour to rise, then make it 
 into buns ; put them on a tin, set them before the fire for a quarter 
 
 B B 
 
370 CAKES, BOTS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC. 
 
 of an hour, cover over with flannel, then brush them with very 
 warm milk, and bake them of a nice brown in a moderate oven. 
 
 1512. — BUNS, COMMON. 
 
 To two pounds of flour, a quarter of a pound of sugar, some 
 carraway seeds, a little nutmeg, and a few Jamaica peppers, rub in 
 four ounces of butter. Put into a cup of yeast a spoonful or two of 
 cream, and as much good milk as will make the above into a light 
 paste ; put it by the fire to. rise, and bake quickly jn tins. 
 
 1513. — BUNS, PLUM. 
 
 Take two pounds of plain bun paste, add half a pound of currants, 
 a quarter of a pound of candied orange peel cut into small pieces, 
 half a nutmeg grated, and half an ounce of mixed spice. Form 
 them into buns, dent them round the edges with a knife, and proceed 
 as above. 
 
 1514. — SEED BUNS. 
 
 Mix one ounce of carraway seeds in two pounds of plain bun 
 dough, form it into buns; butter the insides of tart-pans, and put one 
 bun into each pan, place them near the fire to rise, and when this 
 is done ice them with the white of an egg beaten to a froth, sprinkle 
 powdered sugar over that, dissolving it with water splashed from a 
 brush. Bake it ten minutes. 
 
 BREAD. 
 
 1515. BREAD, 
 
 Put a quartern of flour into a large basin with two tea-spoonfuls of 
 salt; make a hole in the middle and then put in a basin four table- 
 spoonfuls of yeast, stir in it a pint of milk lukewarm, put it in the 
 hole of the flour, stir it to make it just a thin batter, then strew a 
 little flour over the top, then set it on one side of the fire and cover , 
 it over; let it stand till next morning, then make it into a dough; add 
 half a pint more of warm milk, knead it for ten minutes and then 
 set it in a warm place for one hour and a half, then knead it again 
 and it is ready either for loaves or bricks; bake them from one hour 
 and a half to two hours according to the size. 
 
 1516. BREAD, FBENCH. ' 
 
 Take half a bushel of flour, put it on the slab, make a hole in the 
 centre in which put two ounces of yeast, make your dough with 
 •warm water .to about; the consistence pf brioche,. work; it Up well, 
 adding two ounces of salt dissolved in a little warm water; cover and 
 set it in a warm place to rise, on this operation depends the quality . 
 of the bread. Having left the dough one or two hours, according to 
 the season, knead it again and leave it again for two hours, in the 
 meanwhile heat the oven, divide the dough into eight equal parts of 
 
CAKES, BUNS, BISCUITS, BREAD, ETC: : 371 
 
 ■which form your loaves, put them in the oven as quickly as possible, 
 as soon as they are done rub the crust with a bit of butter which 
 gives them a nice light colour. 
 
 1517- BREAD FRENCH ROLLS. 
 
 Take half a bushel of sifted flour, knead it into dough with two 
 quarts of milk, three quarters of a pound of warm butter, half a 
 pound of yeast and two ounces of salt : when the whole is well 
 worked up cover and leave it to rise; in two hours time form it into 
 rolls and lay them on tinned plates, place them in a slow oven; when 
 they have "been in an hour put them into a very hot oven for twenty 
 minutes, rasp them as soon as they are baked. 
 
 1518. SCOTCH SHORT BREAD. 
 
 Mix two? pounds of flour, dried and well-sifted, with a pound of 
 powdered sugar, three ounces of candied citron and orange peel cut 
 into dice, and half a pound of carrraway comfits; mix these with half 
 a pound of butter melted in a saucepan ; then make the paste, roll it 
 out the thickness of half an inch, cut it into cakes, place them on 
 white paper, prick, and bake them of a pale colour. 
 
 B B 2 
 
372 COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCOA. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCOA 
 
 Coffee and tea have now become such universal beverages for the 
 morning or after dinner meal, that beyond a few general directions 
 little remains for prefaratory matter. 
 
 Coffee should be purchased in the berry, and fresh roasted, it 
 should always, when possible, be ground just previous to being made. 
 .After it is ground it should not be exposed to the air, as the aroma 
 speedily flies off. If more is ground than required for the meal, 
 keep it in a glass closely-stopped bottle. Coffee, like tea, should be 
 an infusion, not a decoction, although Monsieur Soyer recommends 
 boiling after filtering; this may produce a powerful flavour, but the 
 fragrance is gone, and the more acrid roughness annoying to a fine 
 palate alone remains. 
 
 The best coffee is the Mocha, the next is the Java, and closely ap- 
 proximating is the Jamaica and Berbice. 
 
 Of tea little need be said ; almost every one knows the rules for 
 making it. 
 
 Boiling water should alone be used. 
 
 Metal tea pots in preference to earthenware. 
 !". Silver is better than either. 
 
 A spoonful of tea for each person. Heat the tea-pot first with 
 some boiling water, then pour that into the tea-cups to warm them ; 
 put in your tea, and pour enough water on to the tea to cover it; let 
 it stand three or four minutes, then nearly fill the tea-pot with water, 
 let it stand a few minutes, and pour out, leaving some portion of tea 
 in the pot when you replenish, that all the strength may not be 
 poured away in the first cup. 
 
 Chocolate can only be obtained pure of a first-rate house ; that 
 commonly sold is most infamously adulterated ; the best Spanish or 
 Italian chocolate should be purchased; the Florence has a high 
 reputation. 
 
 Cocoa is the foundation of chocolate, it may be pounded, and 
 either boiled as milk, or boiling water may be poured upon it. It 
 js very digestible, and of a fattening nature. 
 
 COFFEE. 
 
 1519. — COFFEE — FEENCH METHOD OF PKEPAEING IT. 
 
 let your coffee be dry, not in the least mouldy or damaged, 
 
COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCOA. 373 
 
 divide the quantity that is to be roasted into two parts ; roast the 
 first part in a coffee roaster, the handle must be constantly turning 
 until the coffee becomes of a dried almond colour or bread raspings, 
 and has lost one eighth of its weight; roast the second part until it 
 becomes the fine brown colour of chestnuts, and has lost one fifth 
 of its weight, mix the two parts together and grind them in a coffee 
 mill; do not roast or make your coffee until the day it is wanted. 
 To two ounces of ground coffee put four cups of cold water, drain 
 off this infusion and put it aside ; put to the coffee which remains 
 in the biggin three cups of boiling water, then drain it off and add 
 this to that which has been put on one side, by this method you 
 obtain three cups more ; when your coffee is wanted heat it quickly 
 in a silver coffee-pot, taking care not to let it boil that the perfume 
 may not be lost by undergoing any evaporation. 
 
 1520. COFFEE, TO ROAST. 
 
 Coffee should never be roasted but when you are going to use it, 
 and then it should be watched with the greatest care, and made of 
 a gold colour; mind and do not burn it, for a few grains burnt 
 would communicate , a bitter taste to the whole ; it is the best way 
 to roast it in a roaster over a charcoal fire, which turns with the 
 hand, as by that means it will not be forgotten, which is very often 
 the case when on a spit before the fire. 
 
 1521. COFFEE MADE IN A FRENCH FILTER OK GRECQUE. 
 
 In a quart filter put two ounces of coffee, newly ground, upon the 
 filter, put on the presser, and then the grating, pour slowly on the 
 latter about three parts of a pint of boiling water, and let it filter 
 through, keeping the nozzle of the coffee-pot covered with the sheath, 
 and the lid on the grating ; when it has filtered through add a like 
 quantity of boiling water, and when this has passed through add 
 the remaining quantity, press down the coffee grounds, remove the 
 upper portion containing filter and grating, put on the lid and 
 serve. 
 
 1522. COFFEE TO MAKE WITH HOT WATER. 
 
 Instead of pouring cold water upon the coffee, boiling must be 
 used, taking care the froth does not run over, which is to be pre- 
 vented by pouring the water on the coffee by degrees. 
 
 1523. COFFEE TO MAKE WITH COLD WATER. 
 
 Upon two ounces of coffee pour seven cups of cold water, then 
 boil it until the coffee falls to the bottom, when the froth has 
 disappeared, and it is clear at the top like boiling water, it must 
 be taken off the fire and be allowed to stand, but as it often requires 
 clearing a little cold water should be poured in it the instant it is 
 taken off the fire from boiling. A quicker way of clearing it is by 
 putting in a small piece of isinglass; when it has stood. a- sufficient 
 time to settle, pour it off into another coffee-pot, and it is fit for use. 
 
374 ; COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, ANt> COCOA. 
 
 1524. — COFFEE MIXK. 
 
 Boil a dessert-spoonful of coffee in nearly a pint of milk a 
 quarter of an hour, then put in a little isinglass and clear it, and 
 let it boil a few minutes, and set it on the fire to grow fine. 
 
 1525. COFFEE CREAM. 
 
 Mix three cups of good coffee with one pint of cream, and sugar 
 according to taste, boil them together and reduce them about one 
 third, observe that the coffee must be done as if it was for drinking' 
 alone and settle very clear before you mix it withthe cream. 
 
 1526.' — COFFEE WHITE CREAM. 
 
 Infuse two ounces of roasted coffee in a gill of boiling cream for 
 half an hour, then strain the cream through a napkin, sweeten, and 
 add, the yolks and two whole eggs; mix it well and pass it through 
 a bolting several times, heat eight small custard moulds by dipping 
 them in warm water, having in the meantime boiled some sugar to 
 grand casse pour it into the moulds, then drain and fill them with the 
 preparation, taking care to stir it well; let them stand over a small 
 fire, but with plenty of fire at the top; when done turn them on a, 
 dish, heat about a cupful of coffee a l'eau and pour it over each 
 cream. 
 
 1527. — COFFEE CREAM A LA FRANCAISE. 
 
 Roast a quarter of a pound of coffee and infuse it in five glasses 
 of boiling milk, cover it close and let it stand till lukewarm, then 
 strain and mix it with ten ounces of powdered sugar, a 'grain of 
 salt, and the yolks of eight eggs, then proceed as " Goffee Cream au 
 Bain Marie." 
 
 1528. COFFEE AU CREME. 
 
 Put two spoonfuls of coffee with some sugar into three pints of 
 cold cream, boil it up for half an hour, let it stand, beat up the 
 yolks of eight eggs, strain them through a sieve, and mix the whole 
 together, put it into a bain marie to simmer over a slow firej keeping 
 it constantly stirred. 
 
 1529. COFFEE CREAM ATT BAIN MARIE. 
 
 Infuse a quarter of :a pound of roasted coffee in six glasses of 
 boiling milk, cover it close till warm, strainj mix it a little at a 
 time with ten yolks, one ■whole egg, a grain of salt, and ten ounces 
 of sugar ; when thoroughly incorporated strain again, and finish ag 
 usual. " 
 
 1530.— COFFEE A Ii'EATT, CREAM ATI BAIN MARIE. 
 
 Infuse a quarter of a pound of ground coffee into a glass of 
 boiling water, let it stand, and when the coffee is settled pour off 
 
COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCOA. 376 
 
 the liquor into a preserving pan, in which is a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar, boiled to caramel; cover this closely, and dissolve the 
 sugar oyer hot ashes, then pour the coffee into five glasses of hot 
 milk, mix them with yolks of ten eggs and one whole, six ounces of 
 powdered sugar, and a grain of salt, strain the cream and finish in 
 the usual way. 
 
 1531 COFFEE A I'EATT, CREAM A 1A FRANCAISE. 
 
 Infuse a quarter of a pound of 'ground coffee in a glass of water 
 boiling ; when the coffee is precipitated pour it off clear. Boil a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar to caramel, pour the coffee to it, and 
 then set it on hot ashes that the sugar may dissolve gently, and 
 when it is perfectly melted stir in gradually the yolks of eight 
 eggs, four glasses of boiling milk, and six ounces of sugar, after 
 which put it on a moderate fire, stirring with a wooden spoon, 
 when it begins to simmer pass it through a fine sieve, and let it 
 Stand till luke-warm; then mix it in six drachms of clarified isin- 
 glass, and finish. 
 
 1532. — Coffee A l'eatt, whipped ckeam. 
 
 Infuse two ounces of fresh ground coffee in half a glass of water, 
 and when the infusion is draWn off clear, put it to two ounces of 
 sugar boiled to caramel, place it over hot ashes, and when the 
 sugar is dissolved let it cool, then mix it and four ounces of 
 powdered sugar, with the whipped cream. See that article. 
 
 1533. COFFEE AtJ JAUNE d'o3UF. 
 
 Put into a basin the yolk of an egg and some sugar, then gently 
 pour over them one cup of coffee ; carefully beat them together that 
 they may be well mixed, add to them one cup of water, then put it 
 into a bain marie to warm, keeping it constantly stirring with a 
 spoon, to prevent its curdling ; when it is warm serve it out in cups. 
 
 1534. — COFFEE — TO GIV6 THE FLAVOUR OF TANILLA. 
 
 Take a handful of oats very clean, and let them boil for five or 
 six minutes in soft water, throw this away and fill it up with an 
 equal quantity and let it boil for half an hour, then pass this decoc- 
 tion through a silk sieve and use it to make your coffee, which will 
 acquire by this means the flavour of vanilla, and is very nice. 
 
 1535. — coffee ice a l'itaxienne. 
 Infuse a quarter of a pound of coffee in a pint of double cream, 
 boiling hot, for two hours, closely covered : half whip the whites of 
 nine eggs, and having strained the cream from the coffee, mix it 
 ■with them; add half a pound of powdered sugar, and put it over ft 
 •gentle fire till it begins to thicken, then, ice it. 
 
376 COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND, COCOA. 
 
 1536. — COFFEE FROTHED OR "WHIPPED. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of ground coffee, make a very strong 
 infusion with it, and pass this through a straining-bag ; having dis- 
 solved three quarters of a pound -of powdered sugar' in a' pint of 
 double cream, and the yolks of six eggs put in the coffee, of which 
 there should be no more than three cups, and whipped as directed 
 in froth cream. 
 
 1537- COFFEE JELLY. 
 
 Eoast a quarter of a pound over a moderate fire to a fine yellow ; 
 take it from the fire, set aside the eighth part of it, and throw the 
 rest into three glasses of nearly boiling water; cover it close, and 
 let it cool. In the meantime boil half a glass of water and pour it 
 over the small portion of coffee, which 1 should be ground, add a 
 little isinglass; when perfectly clear pOur it to the other mixture. 
 Having strained it through a silk sieve, filter the whole, and mix it 
 with three quarters of a pound of clarified sugar and an ounce of 
 isinglass, and half a glass of kirschwasser. Finish with ice. 
 
 1538. — COFFEE, PARFAIT AMOUR. 
 
 For four bottles of brandy take one pound of coffee in powder, a 
 little salt, a little cinnamon, two cloves, then mix all together for 
 twelve hours before you distil it ; two pounds of sugar, two bottles 
 and half a pint of water, clarified with whites of eggs filtered, 
 through paper. 
 
 CHOCOIATE. 
 
 1539. — CHOCOLATE. 
 
 According as you intend to make this, either with milk or water, 
 put a cup of one or the other of .these liquids into a chocolate-pot, 
 with one ounce of cake chocolate ; some persons dissolve the 
 chocolate before they put it into the milk ; as soon as the milk or 
 water begins to boil mill it; when the chocolate'is dissolved and 
 begins to bubble take it off the fire, letting it stand near it for. a 
 quarter of an hour, then mill it again to make it frothy; afterwards 
 serve it out in cups. 
 
 The chocolate should not be milled unless it is prepared with 
 cream ; chocolate in cakes should always be made use of in ices and 
 dragees. 
 
 1540. — CHOCOLATE DROPS. 
 
 Take one pound and a half of chocolate, put it on a pewter plate 
 and put it in the oven just to warm the chocolate, then put it into a 
 copper stewpan with three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar ; 
 mix it well over the fire, take it off, and roll it in pieces the size of 
 small marbles, put them on white paper, and when they are all on 
 take the sheets of paper by each corner and lift it up and down, so 
 
COFFEE, TEA, CHOCOLATE, AND COCOA. 377; 
 
 that the paper may touch the table each time, and by that means 
 you will see the drops come quite fat, about the size of a sixpence; 
 put some sugar nonpareils over them, and cover all that are on the 
 paper, then shake them off, and you will see all the chocolate drops 
 are covered with the sugar nonpareils ; let them stand till cold and _ 
 they will come off well, and then put them in a box prepared. 
 
 1541. — CHOCOLATE BON-BONS. 
 
 Put a quarter of a pound of chocolate over a fire to dissolve it, 
 and having boiled two pounds of sugar to fort perle, put a spoonful 
 or two into the chocolate, stir it well till it forms a thin paste and 
 then pour it on the sugar, and boil it to caramel ; in the meantime 
 melt a little butter, skim and pour it off clear into a basin, take a 
 spoonful of it and rub it with your hand over a marble slab or table, 
 on this pour the chocolate and sugar; then take two ends of a sword- 
 blade, one in each hand and press lines an inch apart all down it, 
 cross them in the same' manner so as to mark the sugar in squares 
 all over, doing it as quickly as possible lest the sugar should cool 
 before you have done them, pass the sword-blade between the 
 marble and the sugar, lay under the sugar sheets of paper, and 
 when cold break it into pieces according to the marks, and wrap 
 each square in paper. 
 
 1542. TEA CREAM. 
 
 Infuse an ounce of the best green tea in half a pint of boiling 
 milk, simmer it five minutes, then strain it through a tammy, pressing 
 the leaves well ; boil a pint of rich cream, add to it the yolks of four 
 eggs beaten, and, sufficient quantity of clarified sugar; pour this 
 whilst hot to the milk, stir them together well, put in as much 
 clarified isinglass as will set it, and pour the cream into the mould 
 or glasses, place them on ice when perfectly cold, turn it out of the 
 mould or serve in the glasses. 
 
 1543. TEA CREAM. CREME DU THE. 
 
 Boil two drachms or more of good green tea in a quart of milk; in 
 a few minutes strain it, add three yolks of eggs well beaten, a 
 quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, set it on the fire and reduce 
 it to half, then strain it again ; when cold serve it. 
 
 1544. — TEA ICE. 
 
 Take two drachms of the best tea, tie it in a bit of muslin, and 
 boil it in two quarts of cream ; when the infusion is sufficiently strong, 
 take out the muslin, squeeze it well, and mix the cream with the 
 eggs and sugar. 
 
378 
 
 home Made wines. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 HOME MADE WINES. 
 
 OW that fruit and sugar 
 are both so cheap, all house- 
 wives may add wines to 
 their household stores as 
 easily as they may preserves. 
 The difficulty and expense 
 of making is trifling com- 
 pared with what the latter 
 used to be. Next to the. 
 fruit, sugar is the most im- 
 portant ingredient. In wine 
 countries the grape, under 
 the influence of climate, contains within 
 itself the chemical properties to produce 
 fermentation, while in England artificial 
 aid is compelled to be used to accomplish, 
 it. The four requisites for fermentation 
 are sugar, vegetable extract, malic acid, 
 and water ; and upon the proper regula- 
 tion of these constituents the success 
 depends. 
 
 The fermentation requires great atten- 
 tion, and should neither be suffered to 
 continue too long, nor be checked to,o 
 early. Its commencement, which, will be about a day after the 
 articles have been mixed, will attract attention "by the noise it 
 makes. For a sweet wine, the cask should not be closed until the 
 sound of fermentation has almost ceased. If a dry wine, have ready 
 a barrel which has been subjected to the fumes of sulpher, and draw 
 off your wine- into it. Rack off the wine, clearing it with, isinglass, 
 and bottle in about ten weeks after it. . J 
 
 1545. — APPLE WINE. 
 Add to a barrel of cyder the herb scurlea, the quintessence of 
 wine, a little nitre, and a pound of syrup of honey. Let it work in 
 the cask till clear and well settled, then draw" it off and it will be 
 little inferior to Rhenish either in clearness, colour, or flavour. 
 
HOME MADE WISES. 37 9 
 
 1546. — APRICOT "WINE. 
 
 Pare and stone some ripe apricots; bruise and put them to six 
 quarts of water and one of white wine; simmer gently for some 
 time, when the fruit is soft pour the liquid to apricots prepared as 
 the^ others. Let it stand twelve hours, stirring it often, pour off the 
 liquid, and press the remains through a fine bag, and put them 
 together in a cask to ferment, put a pound of sugar to each gallon. 
 Boil an ounce of mace and half an ounce of nutmeg in a quart of 
 white wine, and while hot pour it in the fermenting wine, and hang 
 a bunch of fresh burrage in the cask for three days ; draw it off and 
 keep in bottles. 
 
 1547- — BALM WINE. 
 
 Boil twenty pounds of lump sugar in four gallons and a half of 
 water gently for an hour, and put it in a tub to cool ; bruise two 
 pounds of the tops of green balm, and put them into a barrel with 
 a little new yeast, and when the syrup is nearly cold pour it on the 
 balm ; stir it well together, and let it stand four and twenty hours, 
 stirring frequently; bring it up, and when it has stood for six weeks 
 bottle it, put a lump of sugar into each bottle ; cork tight. 
 
 1548. — BAKLEY WINE. 
 
 Boil half a pound of French barley in three waters; save about a. 
 pint of the last water, and mix it with a quart of white wine, half a 
 pint of borage water,, as much clary water, a little red rose water, 
 the juice of five or six lemons, three quarters of a pound of sugar, 
 the rind of a lemon, strain and bottle it up. 
 
 1549. — BIECH WINE. 
 
 The season for procuring the liquor from the birch tree is in the 
 beginning of March, while the sap is rising and before the leaves 
 shoot out ; for when the sap is come forward and the leaves appear, 
 the juice, by being long digested in the bark, grows thick and 
 coloured, which before was white and clear. The method of procur- 
 ing juice is by boring holes in the body of the trees and putting 
 in fossets, which are made from the branches of elder, the pith 
 being taken out. You may, without hurting the tree, if large, tap 
 it in several places, four or five at a time, and by that means save; 
 from a good many trees several gallons every day; if you have not 
 enough in one day, the bottles in which it drops must be corked close 
 and rosined Or waxed, make use of it as soon as you can. Take the 
 sap and boil it as long as any scum rises, skimming it all the time- 
 J"o every gallon of liqupr pour four pounds' of good sugar, the thin 
 peel of a lemon, boil it afterwards half an hour, skimming it very 
 well, pour it into a clean tub, and when it is almost cold set it to 
 work with yeast, spread upon a toast ; let it stand five or six days, 
 stirring it often; then take such a cask as will hold the liquor, fire 
 a large match dipped in brimstone, and throw it into the cask, stop 
 
380 HOME MADE WINES. 
 
 it close until the match is extinguished, tun your wine, lay the bung 
 on light till you find it has done working; stop it close and keep it 
 three months, then bottle it off. 
 
 1550. BLACKBEKBY WINE. . 
 
 Put some ripe blackberries into a large vessel with a cock in it ; 
 pour on as much boiling water as will cover them, and as soon 
 as' the heat will permit, bruise them well with the hand till all 
 the berries are broken; cover them, and in about three or four days, 
 when the berries rise to the top, draw off the clear part into an- 
 other vessel; add to every ten quarts of the liquor one pound of 
 sugar, stir it well in, and let it stand a week or ten days to work. 
 Draw it off through a jelly bag. Steep four ounces of isinglass in a 
 pint of sweet wine for twelve hours, then boil it slowly till dis- 
 solved, put it in a gallon of the juice ; boil them together, then put 
 all together, let it stand a few days, and bottle. 
 
 1551. CHEEKY WINE. 
 
 To make five pints of this wine, take fifteen pounds of cherries, 
 and two of currants; bruise them together, mix with them two- 
 thirds of the kernels, and put the- whole of the cherries, cur- 
 rants, and kernels into a barrel with a quarter of a pound of sugar 
 to every pint of juice. The barrel must be quite full ; cover the 
 barrel with vine leaves and sand above them, and let it stand until 
 it has done working, which will be in about three weeks; then stop 
 it with a bung, and in two months' time it may be bottled. 
 
 1552. CHOCOLATE "WINE. 
 
 Take a pint of sherry or a pint and a half of port, four ounces 
 and a half of chocolate, six ounces of fine sugar, and half an ounce 
 of white starch or flour, mix, dissolve, and boil these altogether for 
 ten or twelve minutes ; but if your chocolate is made with sugar, 
 take double the quantity of chocolate and half the quantity of 
 sugar. 
 
 1553. — CLABET — ABTIFICIAL. 
 
 Distil in a cold still one part of clary water, half a part of rad- 
 streak cyder, and put them with six pounds of Malaga raisins beaten 
 in a mortar, and one pound of the fat mother of claret in a close 
 vessel to ferment; when it has stood a fortnight draw it off, and for 
 every gallon put half a pint of mulberry, blackberry, or gooseberry- 
 juice, and a pint of spirit of clary; to the whole put three spoonfuls 
 of flour, the whites of two eggs, a dram of isinglass, and two 
 pounds of syrup of clary ; mix the whole well together, and let it 
 stand, when quite clear bottle it. 
 
 1554. — CLARY WINE. • 
 
 i Boil six gallons of water, a dozen pounds of sugar, the juice of 
 
HOME MADE WINES. 381 
 
 six lemons, and four well beaten whites of eggs for half an hour, 
 skimming it carefully; then pour this, while boiling hot, on a peck 
 of fresh clary flowers, with the peels of the lemons used above, and 
 stir it well ; add a thin dry toast covered with yeast. When it has 
 worked two or three days, add to it six ounces of syrup of lemons, 
 and a quart of Rhenish wine. Squeeze the clary through a cloth, 
 strain the liquor through a flannel bag in a cask, lay the bung on 
 loosely, and if in the course of a few days it does not work, bung it 
 quite close. The wine may be bottled in three months. 
 
 1555. CUBBANT WINE. 
 
 Take sixteen pounds of currants, three gallons of water; break the 
 currants with your hands in the water, strain it off; put to it four- 
 teen pounds of sugar, strain it into a vessel, add a pint of brandy, 
 and a pint of raspberries; stop it down, and let it stand three 
 months. 
 
 1556. — CUEEANT WINE BED OE WHITE. 
 
 Take thirty pounds of either red or white currants, and an equal 
 quantit)' of black currants, and small cherries not stoned, and 
 leaving on the stalks ; put the whole into a cask, and bruise them 
 with a large stick; then boil half a quarter of juniper berries in five 
 or six pints of water, to which add half a pound of honey to make 
 the juniper berries ferment ; when they have fermented mix them 
 with the juice of the fruits. Stir it together during four and twenty 
 hours two or three times, then fill up the cask with water, and 
 close it. This quantity will make 150 bottles of excellent wine ; if 
 you wish to make it stronger put in a pint or two of brandy. 
 
 1557- CTTBRANT WINE BLACK. 
 
 Take three pounds of ripe black currants, pick and bruise them, and 
 put them into a deep basin with four bottles and a half of brandy; 
 add, if you please, some cloves and a little bruised cinnamon, and 
 set the jar in a place for two months. At the end of that time strain 
 off the liquor, press the currants well in order to extract all the 
 juice, which put again into the jar with a pound and three quarters 
 of sugar; leave it until the sugar is melted, and then strain through 
 paper and bottle off. This liquor becomes excellent after three or 
 four years' keeping. 
 
 1558. — cowslip wine. 
 
 One gallon of water, three pounds of lump sugar, one Seville 
 orange, and one lemon to every gallon of cowslip pips. First boil the 
 water and sugar an hour, skim it clear and boil, pour it out, let it 
 stand till nearly cold, then put it in the barrel upon the pips, with a 
 teacupful of yeast to eight gallons of wine. Peel half the number 
 of oranges and lemons, squeeze the juice into the cask, cut the 
 remainder into slices, which add with the peels. When the fermen- 
 
382 HOME MADE WINE3- 
 
 tation ceases or has lasted long enough, put to the whole a little 
 brandy. 
 
 1559. — ctphxts wine — to imitate. 
 To nine gallons of water put nine quarts of the juice of white 
 older-berries, which have been pressed gently from the berries, and 
 passed through a sieve without bruising the kernels of the berries; 
 add to every gallon of liquor, three pounds of Lisbon sugar; to the 
 whole put an ounce and a half of ginger sliced, and three quarters 
 of an ounce of cloves; then boil this near an hour, taking off the 
 scum as it rises, and pour the whole to cool in a tub, and work it 
 with ale yeast spread upon a toast of bread for three days, then 
 put it into a vessel that will just hold it, adding a pound and a half 
 of raisins split, to lie in liquor till you draw it off, which will be in 
 January. 
 
 1560. DAMSON WINE. 
 
 Gather the damsons on a dry day, and bruise them. Put them 
 into a stein with a cock in it, and to every eight pounds of fruit add 
 one gallon of boiling water. In two days you may draw it off, and put 
 it into a vessel, and to every gallon of the liquor add two pounds and 
 a half of sugar. Fill up and stop it up close. Keep it in a cool cellar 
 for twelve months, then bottle it, putting a lump of sugar into each 
 bottle. Cork them well, and it will be fit for use in two months 
 after. 
 
 1561. — elder WINE. 
 Pour a gallon of boiling water over every gallon of berries, let it 
 stand twelve hours; then draw it off and boil it up with three pounds 
 and a half of sugar; when boiling beat up some whites of eggs, and 
 clarify it: skim it clear, then 'add half an ounce of pounded ginger 4o 
 every gallon of the wine; boil it a little longer before you put it in 
 the tub ; when cool put in a toast rubbed in yeast; let it ferment a 
 day or two, after which put it into a barrel previously rinced with 
 brandy. All wines should be lukewarm when the yeast is added 
 to it. 
 
 1562. ELDER WINE ANOTHER WAT. 
 
 To three pounds of elderberries put one pound of damsons, and 
 to a nine gallon cask put a pint of sloes. Boil' two gallons of water 
 with an ounce of hops for an hour and a half; then put in sugar, 
 such as four pounds to five quarts of water ; keep skimming as it 
 rises, and then set it to cool; boil the fruit for half an hour, strain 
 the juice, and put a quart of it to every gallon of water; then let it 
 work with yeast for three days; put it in the barrel and stop it 
 tclose. The. spice and sugar to be put according to taste. When the 
 wine, has stood six weeks put in four pounds of stoned raisins. 
 
 . ( 1563, — [ELDER FLOWER WINE. 
 
 Put ten pounds of sugaT to four gallons pf water, boil it till a 
 
HOME MADE WINES. 383 
 
 sixth part is wasted away; while it is boiling skim it well; then set 
 it fey till it is as cool as wort, then put hr a spoonful of yeast, and 
 as soon as it begins to work, put in about a pint and a half of blosr 
 soms of elder picked from the stalks, stir it daily until it has done 
 working, which will be in about a week; then 'put it in a cask, 
 stop it close, let it stand two or three months, and if it is clear 
 bottle off. 
 
 1564. — GINGER WINE. 
 
 To every gallon of water add three pounds of sugar, and one 
 pound of ginger, the paring of one lemon, half a pound of raisins 
 stoned; boil all half an hour, let it stand until it is lukewarm, then 
 put it into the cask with the juice of a lemon; add one spoonful of 
 yeast to every gallon, stir it every day for ten days, then add half a 
 pint of brandy to every two gallons, half an ounce of isinglass to 
 every six gallons ; stop it close down, and in about eight weeks it 
 will be fit to bottle. 
 
 ! 1565. GINGER WINE. 
 
 Put ten gallons of water with fifteen pounds of lump sugar, and 
 the whites of eight eggs well heaten and strained; mix the whole 
 well together while cold; when the liquor boils skim it well; put in 
 half a pound of common white ginger bruised, and let it boil twenty 
 minutes. Have in readiness the rind of seven lemons, cut the rind 
 thin and pour the liquor on them; tun it when cool with two spoon- 
 fuls of yeast ; to a quart of the liquor put two ounces of isinglass 
 shavings, while warm, whisk it well three or four times and put the 
 whole into the barrel. Next day stop it up ; in three weeks bottle 
 it; and in three months it will be fit to drink. 
 
 1566. GOOSEBERRY WINE. 
 
 Bruise the gooseberries with the hands in a tub; to every six 
 pounds of fruit add a quart of cold spring water stirring it thoroughly, 
 let it stand twenty hours, then strain them ; dissolve two pounds of 
 sugar to every quart of water employed, let it remain another day, 
 remove the scum very, clearly, and pouriit into the utensil or cask in 
 which it is to remain previous to being bottled. The scum removed 
 must be kept in flannel, and the drainings caught in a vessel, they 
 must be added to the other liquor. Let it work about sixty hours, 
 not more, and then cover down close. In four months it will be 
 ready for bottling. 
 
 1567.— GRAPE WINE. 
 
 To one gallon' of grapes put ■ one gallon of water, bruise the 
 grapes, let them stand a week without stirring, then draw it off and 
 fine. Put to a gallon of wine three pounds of sugar, put it in a 
 vessel, but it must not be Stopped till it has done hissing. 
 
384 HOME MADE WINES. 
 
 1568. — MOUNTAIN WINE. 
 
 Take some Malaga raisins, press and chop them fine, and to ten 
 pounds of raisins put two gallons of water; let them steep three 
 weeks, stirring it now and then during the time; squeeze out the 
 liquor and put it in a vessel that will just hold it, hut he careful not 
 to stop it until it has done hissing, then hung it up close. ' It will 
 be fit for use in six months. 
 
 1569. MULBERRY WINE. 
 
 Take mulberries that are quite ripe; gather them when the weather 
 is fine, spread them on a cloth on the floor or table for twenty-four 
 hours, and boil up a gallon of water to a gallon of juice; skim the 
 water well, and add a little cinnamon bruised. Add to every gallon 
 six ounces of white sugar-candy finely beaten, skim and strain the 
 water when it is taken off and settled, and put to it the juice of the 
 mulberries, and to every gallon of the mixture put a pint of white or 
 Rhenish wine ; let them stand six days in a cask to settle, then draw 
 off the wine and keep it cool. This is a very rich wine. 
 
 1570. ORANGE WINE. 
 
 A dozen of oranges to a gallon of water and three pounds of loaf 
 sugar; pare the oranges thin, and take off all the white skin ; squeeze 
 them well, and then put all the juice, oranges, and the water toge- 
 ther, and let it stand for four and twenty hours; then strain it off and 
 put it intb a barrel with sugar, half the peels, and a quart of the best 
 brandy ; bung it down when it has done hissing : it must stand 
 twelve months before it is bottled. The water must be cold, not 
 boiled. 
 
 1571. PARSNIP WINE. 
 
 Clean and quarter four pounds of parsnips, to which put one gal- 
 lon of water; boil them till tender, drain them through a sieve, but 
 do not bruise them; pour the liquor into a tub, and to each gallon 
 add three pounds of lump sugar and half an ounce of crude tartar ; 
 when cool put in the yeast, and let it stand four days in a warm 
 room, then turn it. The mixture should be fermented in a tempera- 
 ture of sixty degrees. When fermentation has subsided, bung down 
 the cask, and let it stand twelve months before bottling it. March 
 and September are the best months for making it. It only requires 
 to be kept a few years to make it superior to all other made wines. 
 
 1572. — RAISIN WINE. 
 
 One hundred of Smyrnas to twenty gallons of water (wine mea- 
 sure) ; boil half a pound of hops in the water for an hour, let it stand 
 till cold, then pour it over the fruit ; let it remain three weeks, stir- 
 ring it every day; press it off and put it into the cask; do not bung 
 it down till the fermentation has ceased ; when it has stood about a 
 year draw it off clear,put it in the barrel again, and let it stand to set- 
 tle before it is bottled; before it is bunged down close put a quart of 
 
HOME MADE WINES. 385 
 
 brandy to a hogshead of wine ; what is thick should be run through 
 a flannel bag. 
 
 The time for steeping depends on the warmth of the weather. 
 "When the fruit is swelled ready to break it is fit to press. 
 
 1573. — RASPBERRY WINE. 
 
 Take three pounds of raisins, wash, clean, and stone them tho- 
 roughly ; boil two gallons of spring water for half an hour ; as soon 
 as it is taken off the fire pour it into a deep stone jar, and put in the 
 raisins, with six quarts of raspberries and two pounds of loaf sugar ; 
 stir it well together, and cover them closely, and set it in a cool 
 place ; stir it twice a day, then pass it through a sieve ; put the 
 liquor into a close vessel, adding one pound more loaf sugar ; let it 
 stand for a day and night to settle, after which bottle it, adding a 
 little more sugar. 
 
 1574. — WALNUT WINE. 
 
 To one gallon of water put two pounds of brown sugar and a 
 pound of honey, and boil them for half an hour ; be careful to skim 
 it clean ; put into a tub a handful of walnut leaves to every gallon, 
 and pour the liquor upon them ; let it stand all night, then take out 
 the leaves and put in half a pint of yeast. Let it work fourteen days; 
 beat it five times a day to. take off its sweetness, and stop up the 
 cask. It should stand six months before it is used. 
 
 C C 
 
3£6 LIQUEURBj BEVERAGES, ETC. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 LIQUEURS, BEVERAGES, ETC. 
 
 1575. — AQTTA M1BABILIS. 
 
 Take cloves, mace, nutmeg, cinnamon, galingal, cubebs, cardamums, 
 of each four drachms; put to them the juice of two pints of cel- 
 landine, one pint of the juice of spear mint ; balm juice, flowers of 
 melilot, cowslips, rosemary, burrage, bugloss, and marigolds, of each 
 one drachm ; carraway, coriander, and fennel, of each four drachms ; 
 four quarts of sack, and two of white wine ; the strongest brandy, 
 angelica water, and rose water, of each one quart. Bruise the spices 
 and seeds, and steep them with the herbs and flowers in their juices, 
 waters, sack, wine, and brandy, all night. Next day distil it, and 
 from these quantities may be drawn off two gallons. Sweeten it 
 with sugar candy. Keep it in a cool place in bottles. 
 
 I 1576. — CHEBBY BEANDY. 
 
 Choose the finest morel cherries you can obtain ; place them in 
 layers in glass jars, strew pounded sugar between each layer, cover 
 them with brandy. As soon as the cherries have imbibed the 
 brandy, pour in more, so as to keep them constantly covered. 
 
 1577- — CHEBBY BEANDY (BLACK). 
 
 Pick and bruise eight pounds of black maroons, and the same 
 quantity of small black cherries ; let them stand for two months in a 
 cask with six gallons of brandy, two pounds of crushed sugar, and a 
 quart of sack, well stirred together. At the end of that time it may 
 be drawn off and bottled. 
 
 1578. — CTJEACOA. 
 
 This is a species of bitter or wild orange, of which the rind is 
 dried, and may be purchased at the chemists'. To make this liqueur, 
 wash a pound of curacoa several times in warm water ; then, having 
 well drained, put them into a vessel with four quarts of brandy and 
 one of water ; let it stand closely covered for a fortnight. Shake it 
 frequently; distil it after that in the usual way, and drain the 
 curacoa on a sieve. Sweeten with five pounds and a half of sugar 
 
LIQUEURS, BEVEKAGES, ETC. 387 
 
 dissolved in three pints of water ; mix it with the spirit, and then 
 filter it. 
 
 1579. CAPILLAIRE, TO MAKE. 
 
 Tafce fourteen pounds of sugar, three pounds of coarse sugar, six 
 eggs beaten in with the shells, three quarts of water; boil it up twice; 
 skim itVell, ihen add to it a quarter of a pint of orange flower water; 
 strain it through a jelly bag, and put it into bottles when cold ; mix 
 a spoonful or two of this syrup, as it is liked for sweetness, in a 
 draught of warm or cold water. 
 
 1580.— CAPILL SIRE SYRUP OF. 
 
 The capillaire of Canada, although that of Montpellier is equally 
 good, is a very odoriferous vegetable, light and agreeable, but so 
 extremely volatile that the greatest part of it is dissipated- during the 
 preparation of the syrup. To preserve then the odour of the capil- 
 laire, when the syrup is sufficiently done, pour it whilst boiling, upon 
 some fresh capillaire, coarsely chopped up, then cover your vessel, 
 and let it stand until it is quite cold, then pass it through a boiling 
 cloth to separate it from the leaves of the capillaire ; take one ounce 
 of the capillaire from Canada, put it into a glazed pan, pour upon it 
 four pints of boiling water, leave it to infuse for twelve hours over 
 some warm ashes, strain it, and let it run into a vessel, it will give 
 you a strong tincture of capillare ; melt this tincture with four pounds 
 of sugar; put the whole into a preserving-pan, and put it on the 
 fire, and clarify it with the white of an egg, continue the cooking ; 
 when your syrup is perle put some fresh capillaire chopped, into a 
 pan, and pour your syrup whilst boiling upon it, cover your pan care- 
 fully, and let it cool ; when your syrup is cold you may flavour it if 
 you please. Put it into bottles, and cork it hermetically. 
 
 1581. — CAUDLE. 
 
 Make a fine smooth gruel of half grits, when boiled, strain it, stir 
 it at times till cold; when wanted for use add sugar, wine, and lemon 
 peel, with some nutmeg, according to taste; you may add if you 
 please, besides the wine, a spoonful of brandy, or lemon juice. 
 
 1582. CAUDLE, BROWH. 
 
 Boil the gruel the same as for white caudle, with six spoonfuls of 
 oatmeal, and strain it, then add a quart of good ale, not bitter, boil 
 it, then sweeten it according to your taste, and add balf a pint of 
 white wine j when you do not put in the white wine let it be half 
 ale. 
 
 1583. — CAUDLE, WHITE. 
 
 Mix two spoonfuls of oatmeal in a quart of water, with a blade or 
 two of mace, and a piece of lemon peel,, stir it often, and let it boil 
 
 C C 2 
 
388 LIQUEURS, BEVEBAGES, ETC. 
 
 full, twenty minutes, strain and sweeten it, add a little white wine, 
 nutmeg, and a little lemon juice. 
 
 1584. — HIPPOCRAS. 
 
 Take one ounce of cinnamon, two drachms of ginger, two penny- 
 weights of cloves, nutmeg, and galingal, a pennyweight of each. 
 Pound these together well, and infuse them in a pint of red or white 
 wine, and a pint of malmsey; to this add a pound of the best loaf 
 sugar. These proportions will make a quart of the liquor. 
 
 1585. HIPPOCRAS, RED. i 
 
 Pour a gallon of claret into an earthen pot ; put to it a blade of 
 mace, some long pepper, four grains of white pepper, a drachm of 
 cinnamon, and a little coriander seed, all bruised separately; add two 
 pounds of powdered sugar, and a dozen sweet almonds pounded. 
 
 1586. HIPPOCRAS, WHITE. 
 
 Take a gallon of white wine, two ounces of cinnamon, two 
 pounds of sugar, a little mace, all in powder, a few pepper corns, and 
 a couple of lemons cut in quarters. When these have been infused 
 some time, strain it three or four times through a jelly bag. This 
 liquor may be flavoured with musk or ambergris, by tying a small 
 quantity of either drug beaten with a little sugar in a piece of cloth, 
 and putting it into the bag through which it is strained. 
 
 1587. — KIRSCHEN WASSER. 
 
 The best cherries for this purpose are the morel, which should be 
 taken when quite ripe ; take off the stalks and put the fruit into a 
 tub. Have some new wood-ashes, and wet them so as to make a 
 kind of mortar of them, and extend it over the cherries ; these ashes 
 in drying form a complete hard crust, and thus prevents any evapora- 
 tion and assists the fermentation. Leave the fruit thus for six 
 weeks, at the end of which remove the ashes and take out the pulp 
 and the juice of the cherries immediately under it, and put them into 
 the crucible, with not enough to fill it, and distil them. The fire 
 during the operation should be managed with great care, and increase 
 gradually until the produce of your distillation flows in a small 
 stream, and ceases the instant the phlegm begins to appear, then 
 throw away the dregs from the crucible and put more cherries in 
 and distil as before. 
 
 1 588. LEMONADE. 
 
 Take four lemons, pare the rind as thin as possible; squeeze them 
 into a quart of water, add half a pound of fine sugar, let it stand two' 
 or three hours, and pass it through a jelly bag. 
 
 1589. MARASCHINO. . 
 
 Take sixteen pounds of fine sharp cherries, stone, and take off the 
 
LIQTJEUKS, BEVEBAGES, ETC. 389 
 
 stalks, put them into five quarts of brandy to infuse, covered close 
 for three days, then distil the infusion; distil also a pound of cherry- 
 leaves in six quarts of filtered river water, from which you will 
 obtain about a gallon; dissolve in this four pounds and a half of fine 
 sugar, add it to the liquor, with two pints and a half of kirschcn 
 wasser, an ounce and four drachms of spirits of roses, the same of 
 orange flowers, and three drachms of spirits of jessamine; mix them 
 altogether, run it through a jelly bag and bottle it. Cork them well. 
 
 1590. — MEAD. 
 
 To every gallon of water put four pounds of honey; boil it an 
 hour ; then put it into a tub with some yeast on a toast ; cover it 
 over. If it ferments well, after three or four days draw it off clear, 
 put it into a cask with one lemon sliced to every gallon, add a bottle 
 of brandy to every ten gallons. The rind of Seville oranges cut very 
 thin, suspended in the barrel, will greatly improve the flavour. It is 
 best to wash the cask round with part of the brandy before the liquor 
 is put in. Those who like mead to have an aromatic flavour, may 
 mix with it elder, rosemary, marjoram flowers, and use cinnamon, 
 cloves, ginger, pepper, and cardamums in various proportions, 
 according to taste. Others put in a mixture of thyme, eglantine, 
 rosemary, marjoram, with various spices. 
 
 1591. MEAD FEONTINIAC. 
 
 Ten pounds of honey, ten pounds of the best raisins, and ten gallons 
 of water ; boil about ten minutes, keeping well skimmed, put it into 
 a vessel to work; put to it the fifth of a pint of ale yeast, letting it 
 work until the yeast begins to fall ; when taken clear off turn it with 
 the raisins, and throw into the cask the fifth of a quart of elder 
 flowers ; attend to it as the weather changes ; let it remain in the 
 cask twelve months, fine it then with wine finings and bottle it. 
 
 1592. — MEAD SACK. 
 
 To every gallon of water put four pounds of honey, and boil it 
 three quarters of an hour, carefully skimming it. To every gallon 
 add one ounce of hops, then boil it half an hour, then let it stand 
 until the following day: then put it into a cask, and to thirteen 
 gallons of the liquor add a quart of brandy. Stop it slightly until 
 the fermentation is over, then stop it very close. If you make a 
 large cask, keep it in the cask for twelve months. 
 
 1593. — NOYEAU. 
 Two gallons of gin, two pounds of bitter almonds, one pound of 
 sweet almonds; pound them in a mortar, and beat to a fine paste; 
 six pounds of powdered sugar (mix some with the almonds); let 
 these stand ten days in the gin; filter through blotting paper, and 
 bottle it. 
 
390 LIQUEURS, BEVERAGES* ETC. 
 
 1594. ORANGEADE. ' 
 
 Sqmeeae tbe juice ; pour some boiling -water on the- peel, cover it 
 closely, boil water ana sugar to a thin syrup and skim it ; when all 
 are cold mix the juice, the infusion, and the syrup^ with as much 
 water as will make a rich sherbet, strain through a jeHy bag. 
 
 1595. PARFAIT AMOUR. 
 
 Take four fine cedrats, pare thin, infuse with half an ounce of 
 cinnamon, and four ounces of coriander, and three gallons of strong 
 brandy, and a quart of water, for a week or ten days, when distil it 
 in the bain marie ; this quantity of brandy,, if good, will yield two 
 gallons and half a pint of spirit;. Dissolve three pounds and a half 
 of sugar in seven pints of river water, colour it with cochineal, then 
 add it to the spirit ; filter, and bottle it. 
 
 1596. — punch. 
 
 Take a very sound lemon, rub the rind on a piece of fine sugar 
 about half a pound, upon this sugar pour half a pint of strong 
 green tea boiling hot, a little syrup of capillaire, the juice of two 
 lemons strained ; to these add a quart of brandy. Set the whole 
 on fire, agitate the flame with the punch ladle, and when the liquor 
 is reduced one third extinguish it, and pour the hot punch into 
 glasses. By the introduction of other articles such as arrack, cham- 
 pagne, &c, to the above, it is called arrack punch, champagne 
 punch, &c. 
 
 1597. — PUNCH. 
 Squeeze the juice of six fine lemons through a sieve into a china 
 bowl ; grate some lemon peel on a piece of sugar, scrape off the 
 surface as it becomes yellow, and dissolve the sugar in the lemon 
 juice; then pour in a bottle of champagne, the same of rum, a 
 bottle of brandy, and a little green tea; dilute these ingredients with 
 hot water at discretion. The quantity of sugar must be also regulated 
 according to taste. 
 
 1598. — PUNCH, MILK. 
 
 Fill a bottle as full as possible of lemon-peel, and then add as much 
 brandy as it will admit; let this, corked, stand in the sun two or three 
 days ; then mix with the brandy, having poured it out, two pounds 
 of sugar, two quarts of water, four of brandy, two of boiling milk, 
 boiled with spice, and about a pint of lemon juice; when this is 
 cold strain it till quite clear, and bottle it instantly. 
 
 1599. — PUNCH, EOT MIIK, FOR TURTLE SOUP. 
 
 , Put the seeds of thirty lemons pared thin into two quarts of 
 rum ; let it stand three days ; then take three quarts of water, one 
 quart of lemon juice, three quarts of rum, four pounds or perhaps 
 a little more of lump sugar, and two nutmegs grated; mix all 
 
LIQTJEUBS, BEVEKAGES, ETC. 39 1 
 
 together, and lastly add two quarts of new milk boiling. Let the 
 whole stand one night, then run it through a jelly bag until quite 
 clear, then bottle for use. 
 
 1600.— RATAFIA OF FOUR FRUITS. 
 
 Ten pounds of very ripe cherries, two pounds and a half of 
 raspberries, five pounds and a half of red, and two pounds and a half 
 of black currants ; pick and mix these fruits together, press the juice 
 from them, measure it, and for every quart of juice take half a pound 
 of sugar and an equal quantity of brandy ; dissolve the sugar in the 
 juice, then put in the brandy, and a drachm of mace, and two 
 drachms of cloves. Let the whole stand some time; filter, and bottle 
 it. Keep them well corked. 
 
 1601. KATAFIA OF SEEDS. 
 
 Take three drachms of each of the following seeds : anise, 
 cummin, fennel, dill, coriander, carraway, and angelica ; bruise, and 
 infuse them for a month in a gallon of brandy. Dissolve two pounds 
 of sugar in a pint of water ; add this syrup at the end of the above 
 mentioned time to the infusion, then filter and bottle it.. 
 
 1602. EATAFIA WITHOUT SUGAR OR SYRUP. 
 
 Press the juice from some cherries into a pan, and leave it a 
 quarter of an hour j then put it in a large bottle with the kernels, 
 and also some apricot kernels : to this add, if you wish the ratafia 
 to be a deep colour, the juice of two or three pounds of black 
 cherries. Put to your juice half or a third of its quantity of best 
 brandy, then bottle it, and when the fermentation has ceased cork 
 the bottles. If the air is excluded, this ratafia will keep for many 
 years. 
 
 1603. — SHRUB. 
 To a gallon of rum add a quart of Seville orange juice, with three 
 pounds of lump sugar, and a handful of the peel pared extremely 
 thin ; let it stand in a cask for three months, then filter it through a 
 cloth and bottle it. 
 
 1604. SHRUB, ANOTHER RECEIPT. 
 
 Strain a quart of orange juice, put to it two pounds of lump sugar, 
 four quarts and one pint of rum ; put half the peels of the oranges into 
 the rum, let it stand one night, then mix the rum with the orange 
 juice and the sugar, and put it into a vessel which has a spigot ; 
 shake it four or five times daily until the sugar is all dissolved; when 
 it is clear, which may be in about a fortnight, bottle it for use. If 
 the oranges are very ripe, a pound and a half of sugar will be enough. 
 
 1605. — SHERBET. 
 
 That usually sold for this compound is composed of tartaric or 
 
392 LIQUEURS, BEVERAGES, ETC. 
 
 citric acid, carbonate of soda, and finely powdered loaf-sugar 
 flavoured with some essential oil, such as lemon or orange in the 
 following proportions : — Three ounces and a half of soda, two 
 ounces and a half of tartaric acid, and twelve ounces of finely 
 powdered loaf sugar, mixed well in a mortar with sufficient 
 essential oil to flavour it, the whole is then most intimately mixed 
 together and put into bottles to be kept close stopped for use, two 
 or three tea-spoonfuls are sufficient for half a pint of water. 
 
 1606. VANILLA, CEEME OF. 
 
 Dissolve over the fire two pounds ten ounces of broken sugar in 
 three pints of purified river water ; when it is boiled up once, pour 
 it into a jar on three drachms of vanilla cut in pieces, and half a 
 grain of amber. "When quite cold add three pints of good brandy, 
 cover the vessel, and when it has infused six days colour it with a 
 little prepared cochineal ; . filter, and bottle the liquor. Cork the 
 bottles tight, and seal the corks. 
 
 1607. — VESPETKO. 
 
 Take half a pound of each of the following seeds : — angelica, 
 coriander, fennel, and carraway, the rinds of four lemons, and as 
 many oranges, infuse all these in two gallons and a half of the best 
 brandy, close the vessel hermetically. Five days' time, distil it in the 
 bain marie alembic, and draw from the above quantity five quarts of 
 liquor. Dissolve seven pounds of sugar in a gallon of pure river 
 water ; add this syrup to the liquor, filter, and bottle it. 
 
 1608. — WHOLESOME BEVERAGE. 
 
 From half a pint to a pint of sweet milk boiled, to which is 
 added a tea-spoonful of curry powder and sugar to taste ; drunk 
 warm it will be found a grateful beverage for those of weak bowels, 
 and who may require to go abroad on very cold raw mornings 
 before breakfast, and will be much better, nay entirely supersede, 
 the use of ardent spirits. 
 
BREWING. 393 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 BREWIBTG. 
 
 Much very bad beer is made in families where there is no sparing 
 
 of materials, for the want of management and economy ; attention 
 
 should be paid to the state of the utensils used, and all necessary 
 
 preparations made the day before the brewing is commenced ; let 
 
 the water be heated in the copper the day before, that it may be 
 
 well cleansed, also cleanse the casks, mash tubs, coolers, &c. 
 
 When this is all done fill your copper, and have everything in 
 
 readiness for the next morning; the quantity of malt for strong 
 
 beer must be ten bushels to the hogshead, for ale nine bushels to 
 
 the hogshead ; the copper for making a hogshead of beer or ale, 
 
 should contain full seventy gallons, because the hogshead of beer 
 
 measure holds sixty-three gallons, and there should be the surplus 
 
 measure allowed for the hops, and the working them about to 
 
 advantage when the water boils, to prevent waste. With this 
 
 copper, four boilings will afford two hogsheads of strong beer or 
 
 table ale, or two of table beer. The malt should be ground four or 
 
 five days before use, and be kept very clean. The ingredients being 
 
 ready, the water must be made to boil quickly, which done, the 
 
 copper fire must be then damped. The malt having been previously 
 
 put in the mashing tub, reserving half a bushel, as soon as the 
 
 steam from the boiling water begins to subside, the water is poured 
 
 upon it to wet the malt, so as to render it fit to be mashed, it 
 
 should then remain covered over for a quarter of an hour, when 
 
 more water is added, and it is mashed as before ; let it stand, for a 
 
 few minutes, and then add the whole quantity of water, according 
 
 as it is intended to have the beer more or less strong. Whilst the 
 
 water is lading on, the mash must be kept stirring with a pole. 
 
 When well mashed run the big end of the mash on through the 
 
 middle of it to give it air, then put the spare half bushel of malt 
 
 over the mash and cover the tub over with sacks to keep the steam 
 
 an.d spirit of the malt in, and let it remain two hours ; then let it run 
 
 into the receiver and mash again for the second wort in the same 
 
 manner as the first, excepting that the water must be cooler, and it 
 
 must not stand more than half the time. Both these worts are 
 
 mixed together, and the quantity of hops intended are added, when 
 
 the liquor must be put into the copper, which being closely covered, 
 
 let it boil gently for two hours, then let the liquor into the receiver 
 
394 BREWING. 
 
 and the hops he strained therefrom into the coolers. When cool the 
 yeast, which should be white and sweet, is added, and the liquor well 
 stirred from the bottom with a wooden bowl, turning it topsy-turvy 
 in the middle of each tub, which causes the beer to ferment ; if it 
 happens that in about two hours the fermentation is not favourable 
 it has been checked, in which case put the mash-oar, &c, across the 
 tubs, and cover them with sacks to encourage the fermentation, 
 when the last thing at night and the first thing in the morning, 
 should be the stirring them well up again. Be careful that the 
 tubs be not too full to work over in the night. The next morning 
 skim the greater part of the yeast off, and prepare to tun it. Let 
 the casks be taken clean and warm into the cellars, which promotes 
 the beer working ; it is best to put a gallon of boiling water ir. and 
 tip it out again. Examine the cork and vent holes, and when the 
 casks are filled reserve some spare beer, that as it works you may 
 fill the casks up for the waste ; as soon as full take two pounds of 
 flour and beat it up smooth with some of the new beer in a pail 
 with a wisp, and divide it between the two casks, keep it well 
 stirred up from the bottom for a quarter of an hour. The flour 
 thus prepared, gives to the beer and ale a fine soft quality, and 
 while under fermentation adds to its flavour. When this flour is put 
 into the casks each should be stirred with a long stick for a few 
 minutes, then put the tin scoop into the upper cork-hole for the 
 beer to work through, and attend to it three or four times a day, par- 
 ticularly the last thing at night and the first thing in the morning, 
 and when the fermentation is done working, which is usually in 
 three or four days, clean the casks outside and put in the beer the 
 hops saved in the pail, equally divided into both, stirring them about, 
 this operation fines all beers ; then bung them tight down with a 
 piece of coarse linen under the bung, if done working, not else. 
 
 For small or table beer there must be a third mashing. Preserve 
 a pail full of the strong beer to add to the small, let the water, when 
 within a few minutes of boiling, be poured on the malt, keeping it 
 mashed as before, then add the pail of strong and cover it over with 
 sacks as before mentioned, with the mash-oar standing in the 
 middle, and let it remain an hour. Then fill the copper with the 
 liquor and let it boil for an hour gently; the same preparation of 
 flour and beer should be added to the table beer. 
 
 For good strong beer or ale and of a fine flavour, there should be 
 allowed one pound of hops for every bushel of malt. Hops that 
 are good and free from adulteration, should be of a fine sweet 
 smell, full of ripe seed of a clear pale yellow colour and clammy, 
 which evinces their strength ; such an article ameliorates and 
 preserves all beer; the best hops are grown in Kent. The great 
 secret of fining all beers to render them of a clear bright colour, is 
 to take out three quarters of a pailful of the hops from the copper 
 when they have boiled an hour, for this simple method is superior, and 
 more congenial to all beer than all the arts that are practised. If, how- 
 ever, beer remains stubborn either from bad cellars, or bad hops, or bad 
 management, then in order to make beer clear or fine, isinglass may 
 be used, which maybe thus prepared: if for fining a hogshead, take 
 
BREWING!. 395 
 
 a quarter of a pound of isinglass, aad put it into a quart of the 
 liquor drawn from the casks, and let it simmer over a slow fire for 
 half an hour in a clear vessel ; pour this into a can of the beer, and 
 put it into the cask stirring it with a long stick for a quarter of an 
 hour, and six hours after bung the cask close down ; it is a bad 
 plan to put raw hops into beer, as they are apt to become musty. 
 Beers are frequently sick and out of condition ; when this happens 
 they should again be put into a new fermentation, then balls made 
 of a pound of lour mixed with a sufficient quantity of treacle, will 
 promote their briskness, this composition softens all beers to the 
 greatest advantage. 
 
 1609. BUBTON AXE. 
 
 For making Burton or rich Welsh ales instead of boiling the 
 wort two hours let it boil only one, but without ceasing for the 
 whole time. Have ready six pounds of treacle which must be 
 thrown into the copper, this adds to the strength of the malt, and 
 gives great richness to the flavour of the ale ; the liquor must be 
 kept well stirred up the whole time and most from the bottom ; but 
 as this is not brewed for keeping, three quarters of a pound of hops 
 to every bushel of malt will be sufficient. Before it is tapped, which 
 may be done in three or four months, fine it as before with the hops, 
 when it will be found to possess that rich flavour for which Burton 
 and Welsh ales are so much liked. This has frequently been brewed 
 in the early part of March, and drunk to perfection the latter end of 
 the June following ; all well brewed ales and beer are good and ripe 
 at three or four months. 
 
 1610. EDINBTJBGH OAT ALES 
 
 Should be made from the best white heavy sweet oat made into 
 malt, the same as barley is. The Scotch oats are preferred, and the 
 ale made from them are said to be of a soft healing quality and is 
 of great repute in England, where it is not common. Though this 
 ale requires a greater quantity of malt, it is brewed at a less price 
 than others, as ten bushels will make a hogshead of fifty-four gallons 
 rich and soft, as no table beer is taken from it. In four or six months 
 it will be fit for use ; it must be brewed, hopped, &c. in the same 
 manner as Welsh ales ; some persons who grow their own oats 
 make this ale with a part oat malt and a part barley malt. 
 
 1611. PORTEK. 
 
 It is generally held that porter to be good must be brewed 
 in large quantities — this is a great error. Excellent porter 
 may be brewed in private families, and by proper management so 
 ordered, that ample time between each brewing may be allowed for 
 it to refine for use ; those families who are in the habit of brewing 
 strong beers may also add porter to their stock. 
 
 The brewing of porter is nearly by the same process as brewing 
 ale, the mash must be made of a fine high dried sweet full malt— 
 
396 BREWING. 
 
 which is cheaper than the pale malt used for brewing the strong 
 ale and beer — and full fine sweet brown hops. It is not necessary 
 for a porter brewer to give a high price per hundred weight for 
 colour and appearance in hops, when in actual strength they may 
 be thirty per cent, inferior for his purpose, such bright hops being 
 only for delicate ales. 
 
 A species of hop well adapted for this purpose is met with in 
 Kent, it is produced by the plant, Humulus Germanicus ; these 
 hops are best for this purpose, because time should be given them 
 to mellow, and the full bitter requisite will belong to them, if kept. 
 The necessary bitter cannot be extracted from. the new hop with- 
 out a harsh unpleasantness ; good brewers — those who brew on a 
 large scale — give their hops eight or twelve months' age, and then 
 they work eight or ten pounds of hops per quarter of malt. 
 
 When the wort and hops are boiling, for every hogshead have 
 ready to put to it one pound of bruised liquorice root cut short, a 
 quarter of a pound of Spanish liquorice, and six pounds of coarse 
 brown sugar, or the same in treacle, and the same in proportion for 
 every cask, be careful to put in these ingredients when the wort and 
 bops are boiling, and let them boil gently for two hours keeping the 
 liquor well stirred from the sides and bottom the whole time, then 
 strain the hops off and put it in the coolers, the same as for other 
 beers. Put into some of the wort while warm half a pound of moist 
 sugar, boil this in an iron pot till it becomes a thick black liquid, and 
 then add before it is cold a pint of the warm porter,' a with a spoonful 
 of salt of steel, and mix them well together, this is what the porter 
 brewers call colour, and it is in quality between a bitter and sweet 
 which gives to the liquor a fine mellow taste and colour so much 
 admired in good porter; in six months it is fit for use, and will have 
 a fine head, as no table beer is required from this eight bushels of 
 malt eight pounds of hops will be sufficient. 
 
 1612. BROWN STOTJT. 
 
 To brew brown stout, porter, or strong beer, to go abroad, allow 
 ten bushels to the hogshead, and if intended for hot climates, 
 fourteen pounds of hops, good, strong, perfectly sweet, and full of 
 seed. All malt liquor that is brewed for long voyages at sea should 
 be quite ripe and fine before it is put on board, and should be sent 
 in the cask it is tunned in, a thirty-six gallon cask or barrel is the 
 most convenient size for ship board. For sea voyages too, in lieu of 
 vent pegs, vent nails should be procured from the ironmongers, for 
 they shift up and down of themselves, as the beer requires. After 
 the porter is fined in the manner of other beers with good hops, to 
 make it carry a good head lower the hand in drawing it some 
 distance from the cock, and let it run down the side of the tankard, 
 leaving lip room on the top. If families would have good casks and 
 of a uniform size, none are more durable than the iron bound rum 
 puncheons which generally hold about one hundred and twenty 
 gallons which is nearly two hogsheads beer measure, and may be 
 bought of any of the great dealers in Jamaica rum and at a fair 
 price. These with care and particularly if painted in oil colour, will 
 
BREWING. 397 
 
 last many years. If new casks be purchased, those of the bell shape 
 are preferred. All new casks must be filled with fresh cold water, 
 and left to stand three or four days, and then well scalded before 
 beer is put in them. In cleaning casks they must be washed with 
 cold water, and nothing is more efficacious and searching in getting 
 the dirt out of all coolers, casks, &c. than a lump of unslacked lime 
 put into the water; when well soaked they must be well scrubbed 
 and cleaned with a birch broom. If the casks should happen to 
 become musty employ a cooper to unhead them and burn them out. 
 As soon as a cask becomes empty, stop up bung, and vent, and cork- 
 hole tight, which will be the means of keeping them sweet. The 
 taps should be taken from the empty cask and immediately cleaned, 
 scalded with boiling water, and put away in a dry place. Hops of 
 every kind should be kept in a dry place. The hops that are intended 
 to be used when brewing should be wetted thus : — Let the tub stand 
 under the cock of the copper, which half turned enables you to wet 
 them gradually. They should be rubbed through the hands to separate 
 them and break the lumps. To cleanse musty casks dissolve a pound 
 of bay salt and half a pound of alum in water, then add as much 
 dung from a milking cow as will make it thick, not more so than 
 will allow it to pass through a funnel ; place it on a fire and stir it 
 with a stick till it nearly boils, then put it into the cask, bung it 
 close, and shake it about for a few minutes and let it remain two 
 hours, then take out the bung and let the vapour escape, fasten it 
 down again, give it another shaking and let it remain two hours 
 more. After this, cleanse the cask thoroughly with cold water, not 
 ceasing till it becomes quite clean and untainted. This done, have 
 ready a liquor made with half a pound of bay salt and two ounces 
 of alum boiled in water, wash the cask well with this and cleanse 
 the cask as before with water, after which the cask will be fit for 
 use. 
 
 1613. THE OELLAK. 
 
 A good brewer, cellarman, &c, will take delight in a well ordered 
 cellar, attention must be paid to cleanliness, both in his person and 
 business ; everything in the cellar should be kept in due order. The 
 brewer or cellarman to the gentleman who keeps a large establish- 
 ment should occupy himself every morning in the cellars, the 
 following duties are incumbent : — 
 
 During the summer months have the beer cellar and steps clean 
 washed weekly, and particularly under the casks, empty the top 
 casks daily into a cask kept for the purpose of holding the slops 
 and grounds, for the cellar should on opening it smell pure and 
 sweet; by attention to these offices the cellar is not only pleasant to 
 enter, but the beer is kept fine and cool during the summer months, 
 whereas by inattention a dirty cellar will cause the beer to turn sour; 
 during the winter months, scraping and sweeping the cellar once a 
 week will be sufficient, observe all cellars in the winter cannot be kept 
 too warm and close, for without attention on this point the liquors 
 cannot thrive. The following articles should be provided to a cellar 
 
398 BREWING. 
 
 in a large establishment: those families who brew on a smaller 
 scale will apply these uses according to their proportionate con- 
 venience. Proper shot and lead canisters with holes in bottoms, and. 
 two cloths to wash bottles, to be kept in the bottle rack. Two tuba 
 to wash bottles in, and a form for them to stand on. Six strain 
 cocks, bungs, corks, rent pegs, and a mallet, a pair of pliers to draw 
 pegs, and cork drawer. A leather boot to buckle on the knee to con- 
 tain the bottles when corking them, for if the bottle breaks the boot 
 saves the liquor. A strong heavy mahogany cork driver. Six strong 
 prickles to be kept in a dry place. Coarse linen to put under the 
 bungs, the old hop sacks will serve. Six tin spouts the size of a 
 beer cock made at the lower end as broad as the banker's shovel at 
 the bottom for the beer to work through from the top cork hole, 
 with brown paper round the top. A strong iron skewer to raise 
 bungs with. A middle sized coopers' gimblet, the size of the small 
 spigots and faucets. A quire of strong brown paper to put round taps, 
 and another to make hop bags with. Two large sponges to clean the 
 outsides of the casks. A pair of slings to grapple the casks with, 
 to take into the cellars, for rolling them will cause dirt to hang about 
 them. A pair of strong folding steps. Half a dozen mahogany 
 spigots and faucets about the size of the little finger to be had at 
 the best turner's, being much better than pegs, which are wasteful, 
 to try all liquors whether they are fine. A strong hammer and iron 
 driver such as the coopers use to drive down the hoops which have 
 loosened from tubs and casks. Two split sticks for cellar candle- 
 sticks. Six iron bound tap tubs and a brush to clean them with. A 
 whisk for the yeast wine finings. A six gallon tub for the yeast, and 
 pour the beer from it daily, then whisk the yeast up in the tub and 
 it will be fit for use. Delf labels to hang on the tops of the liquor 
 bins, as claret, champaigne, sherry, calcavella, porter, cider, perry, 
 port, rhenish, &c A pewter crane and valench. Four or six ice pails 
 for wines, in summer. A wine basket made to hold the bottles that 
 are crusted on their sides, to bring from the cellar in that position. 
 A raising jack to raise wines in casks upon their stands. A pulley 
 and ropes to let wines and liquor down into the cellar. A wine bit of 
 various sizes to bore the casks with. A flogger to beat up the wine 
 bungs with. Two strong pails. A Gunter's gauge rule. A stamped 
 bushel measure to measure the malt with. A strike. A small cop- 
 per adze. A pair of stilyards or scales to weigh the hops with. 
 Stamped lead or iron weights to be kept dry. Two tin funnels to put 
 into bottles when bottling off, A large wood ditto for all beers. Two 
 low stools to sit on. A leather apron with a pocket before for pegs, 
 and bib to button up on the waistcoat. A flannel bag with hoop on 
 top made as a jelly bag to run the lees of all wines through. A 
 common cork screw. An iron-bound wine-can for fining wines in. 
 A hoe. A spade. Six stiff birch brooms, and the same number of 
 strong rag mops. The use of the iron skewer is to raise up the 
 bung by degrees first giving it vent. 
 
 Have a large cupboard made and fixed in the cellar or near it, in 
 a dry spot, to hold most of the small tools, so that everything may 
 be at hand when wanted. 
 
BREWING. 399 
 
 1614. MA1T. 
 
 In choosing the malt, take care that it is not peat or straw dried, 
 and procure it of a pale colour, for they are the best of all malts 
 and more balsamic, also soft and smooth and highly agreeable to 
 the taste ; malt should not be ground too fine, but on the contrary, 
 broken or made into a coarse meal. Good malt is known by a 
 simple test, namely, by chewing it, for if well made it will be 
 nearly as sweet as sugar, delightful to the smell, of a mellow 
 flavour, round body, and thin skin. 
 
 1615. — hops. 
 
 When hops are purchased, let them be not packed too loose in 
 the bags, for that does them no good. Be careful that all things 
 belonging to the beer-house be never used for anything else, for if 
 any grease or soap get in the pails or tubs, it prevents the beer 
 working, take care the liquor-stands be quite steady, for if they 
 rock they injure the beer, they should be made of oak, and they 
 will last for years. Observe, never bottle beer, wine, or cider, but 
 on a fine day, let the bottles be well seen to, use none but the best 
 corks. Beer, cider, and perry, for home consumption, should stand 
 in the bottles sis or eight hours before they are corked, cider and 
 perry should have the corks wired and be packed in a bin with 
 sand. 
 
 1616. EGG SLIP, OK EGG HOT. 
 
 This is a beverage much drank in England at Christmas time ; if 
 properly made it is very agreeable, but if not skilfully done it is not 
 at all pleasant to the palate. The following is an excellent receipt. 
 One quart of ale, one quart of porter, mix together, and put in a 
 saucepan upon the fire, where it is to remain until covered with a 
 thick cream, but it must not boil. Add to half a pint of gin one 
 quartern of rum and four eggs well beaten ; beat up all well toge- 
 ther, add moist sugar to taster Take the mixed ale and beer off the 
 fire, and pour the mixture of eggs and spirits backwards and forwards 
 several times; nww return it to the fire, keep it well stirred, but it 
 must not boil or it will curdle ; when it is just on the verge of a boil 
 take it off, pour it into a jug, and then serve in glasses. If it should 
 require any more sugar add it. 
 
 1617- — pubx. 
 This is also a winter beverage, and is composed chiefly of gin or 
 rum poured into beer, and made hot, sweetened with sugar and 
 spiced with grated nutmeg. 
 
 1618. — SPICED ALE 
 
 Is made in a similar manner, save that a hot toast is served in it. 
 This is the wassail drink. 
 
400 
 
 WASSAIL BOWL. 
 
 WASSAIL BOWL IN GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 " This is their custom, and their jest, 
 When they are at the ale or feast ; 
 Ilk man that loves where him think, 
 Shall say Wassail ! and to him drink. 
 He that bids shall say wassail ! 
 The t'other shall say again Drinkhail ! 
 That says wassail drinks of the cup — 
 Kissing his fellow, he gives it up. 
 Drinkhail ! he says, and drinks thereof, 
 Kissing him in board and skof." 
 
 Robert de Brunne; Temp. Edward I. II. 
 
 During the Christmas week bands of men, calling themselves " Wassailers," 
 carry about, at night time, a large bowl, made from the wood of the apple-tree ; 
 and Bing a song and chorus before the doors of their neighbours. Two pieces of 
 stick are generally bent crossways over the bowl :' these, as well as the bowl, are 
 ornamented with laurel, mistleoe, various other evergreens, gay ribbons, &c. At 
 the conclusion of the song, the bowl is sent into the house for inspection, in the 
 hope that it may be returned well filled with beer, &c, or accompanied by some 
 trifling pecuniary donation. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 401 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 1616. — BLACKING. 
 
 The best blacking for preserving the leather of boots and shoes, 
 and which will make it perfectly water-tight, is the following : — take 
 of yellow wax one ounce and a half, of mutton suet four ounces 
 and a half, horse turpentine half an ounce, ivory black three ounces, 
 melt first the wax, to which add the suet and afterwards the horse 
 turpentine, when the whole is melted remove it from the fire; mix in 
 gradually the ivory black, constantly stirring till it is cold. This 
 composition is sometimes run into moulds and sold under the name 
 of blacking balls ; when it is used it may be laid or rubbed upon a 
 brush which should be warmed before the fire ; it is also the best 
 blacking for every kind of harness ; when it is wanted in a large 
 quantity it may be gently melted in a ladle or pot over a chafing- 
 dish with live coals. 
 
 161 7. — TO CLEAN CANE CHAIR BOTTOMS. 
 
 Turn up the chair bottom, and with hot water and a sponge wash 
 the cane-work well so that it may become completely soaked ; should 
 it be very dirty, you may add soap. Let it dry in the open air if 
 possible, or in a place where there is a thorough draught, and it will 
 become as tight and firm as when new, providing that it has not been 
 broken. 
 
 1618. — TO CLEAN DECANTERS. 
 
 Roll up in small pieces some coarse brown paper, then wet and 
 soap the same, put them into the vessel with a little lukewarm water, 
 and some common soda, shake them well, then rinse -with clean 
 water, and it will be as bright and clear as when new. t 
 
 1619.— CLEANING FLOOR CLOTHS. 
 
 After sweeping and cleaning the floor cloth with a broom and 
 damp flannel in the usual manner, wet 'them over with milk, and rub 
 them till beautifully bright with a dry cloth ; they will thus look as 
 if they where rubbed first with a waxed flannel and afterwards with 
 
 D D 
 
402 MISCELLANEOUS EECEIPTS. 
 
 a dry one, without being so slippery, or so soon clogging with dust or 
 dirt. 
 
 1620. — TO CLEAN SPONGES. 
 
 When very foul wash them in diluted tartaric acid, rinsing them 
 afterwards in water, it will make them very soft and white. Be 
 careful to dilute the acid well as it is very corrosive and therefore 
 should be weak. 
 
 1621. — TO CLEAN SILK STOCKINGS. 
 
 Wash your stockings first in white soap liquor lukewarm to take 
 out the rough dirt, then rinse them in fair water, and work them well 
 in a fresh soap liquor, then make a third soap liquor pretty strong, in 
 which put a little stone blue wrapped in a flannel bag, till your liquor 
 is blue enough,- then wash your stockings well therein, and take 
 them out and wring them; then let them be dried so that they remain 
 a little moist, then stove them with brimstone ; after which put upon 
 the wooden leg two stockings one upon the other, observing that the 
 two fronts or outsides are face to face, then polish them with glass. 
 
 N.B. The first two soap liquors must be only lukewarm, the last 
 soap liquor as hot as you can bear your hand in it. 
 
 Blonds and gauzes are whitened in the same manner, only a little 
 gum must be put in the soap liquor before they are stoved. 
 
 1622. TO CLEAN TURKEY CARPETS. 
 
 To revive the colour of a Turkey carpet^beat it well with a stick 
 till the dust is all out, then with a lemon or sorrel juice take out the 
 spots of ink, if the carpet be stained with any, wash it in cold water, 
 and afterwards shake out all the water from the threads of the carpet; 
 when it is thoroughly dry rub it all over with the crumb of a hot 
 wheaten loaf, and if the weather is very fine hang it out in the open 
 air a night or two. 
 
 1623. TO CLEAN WATER CASKS. 
 
 Scour the inside well out with water and sand, and afterwards 
 apply a quantity of charcoal dust : another and a better method is to 
 rinse them with a strong solution of oil of vitriol and water, which 
 entirely deprives them of their foulness. 
 
 1624. — TO DETECT WHITING Oil CHALK IN FLOUR. 
 
 Mix with the flour some juice of lemon or good vinegar, if the 
 flour be pure they will remain together at rest, but if there be a 
 mixture of whiting or chalk, a fermentation or working like yeast 
 will ensue, the adulterated meal is whiter and heavier than the good. 
 
 1625. — TO EXTRACT MARKING INK. 
 
 The followin<» process will be found easy and r effectual. Take 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 403 
 
 the piece of marked linen and immerse it in a solution of chloride of 
 lime, when in a few minutes the characters will pass from black to 
 white, owing to a new preparation of silver being formed, namely 
 white chloride of silver, which still remains in the fabric, but owing 
 to its solubility in solution of ammonia it may be entirely extracted 
 by immersion in that liquid immediately it is removed out of the first, 
 and allowing it to remain in it for a few minutes; after this it only 
 requires to be well rinsed in clean water which completes the 
 process. 
 
 1626. ECONOMICAL USE OF FIRE. 
 
 But few persons are aware of the advantages which may be 
 obtained, by simply lining the backward sides of an ordinary fire place, 
 with fire brick. Every one must have noticed that when a fire goes 
 out, the coals at the sides of the fire are left unbumt while the centre 
 is consumed, this arises from the cooling powers of the iron at the sides, 
 and hence the complaint, that you must have a large fire or none at all; 
 with fire brick the whole of the fire however small will be kept a-light, 
 an object of great consideration in spring ; a no less important advan- 
 tage is that less smoke is produced. 
 
 1627- — ECONOMICAL USE OF NUTMEG. 
 
 If you grate a nutmeg at the stalk end, it will prove hollow 
 throughout ; whereas the same nutmeg, had it been grated from the 
 other end, would have proved sound and solid to the last. 
 
 1628. TO EXTINGUISH A FIRE. 
 
 A solution of five ounces of muriate of ammonia in one gallon of 
 water will easily extinguish a large fire. 
 
 1629. — FROST BITTEN FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. 
 
 Such fruits and roots as pears, apples, and potatoes, as have been 
 penetrated by ( ' frost, may be recovered by putting them into cold water 
 when a thaw approaches, and letting them remain in the water for 
 some time, till by the plumpness and fairness of the fruits and roots 
 it appears that the particles of frost are extracted. This method 
 has often been tried and found to answer. 
 
 1630.— TO FINE CLOUDY BEER. 
 
 Back off the cask, and boil one pound of new hops in water with 
 coarse sugar, and when cold pat it in at the bung hole. 
 
 1631. — FURNITURE POLISH. 
 
 Bees' wax half a pound, and a quarter of an ounce of alkanet root; 
 melt together in a pipkin, until the former is well coloured. Then add 
 linseed oil, and spirits of turpentine, of each half a gill, strain 
 through a piece of coarse muslin. 
 
 D D 2 
 
404 MISCELLNNEOUS BECEIPTS. 
 
 1632. — GINGER BEER. 
 
 Pour two gallons of boiling water on a quarter of a pound of 
 cream of tartar, one ounce of sliced ginger, two pounds of lump 
 sugar, let it, stand six hours, then add two table-spoonfuls of yeast, 
 let it stand six hours more, strain through a fine sieve, put it into 
 stone bottles, tie down the corks, and it will be fit for use in twenty- 
 four hours. 
 
 1633. — TO RENDER HARD WATER SOFT. 
 
 For every hundred gallons take half a pound of the best quick 
 lime, make it into a cream by the addition of water, then diffuse it 
 through the hard water in a tank or reservoir and allow the whole to 
 stand ; it will quickly be bright, the lime having united with the 
 carbonate of lime, which makes the hard water, will be all deposited. 
 This is a most beautiful application of the art of chemistry. 
 
 1634. HERBS FOR DRYING. 
 
 The best state in which balm, thyme, sage, and other kitchen or 
 medicinal herbs can be gathered for drying to preserve for winter use 
 is just as their flowers are opening, at that period of growth they are 
 found to contain more of the essential oil, on which their flavours 
 depend, than at any other. 
 
 1635. HONEY, TO CLARIFY. 
 
 Take six pounds of honey, a pound and three quarters of water, 
 two ounces and a quarter of pounded chalk, five ounces of coal 
 pulverized, washed and well dried, the whites of three eggs well 
 Tbeaten in three ounces of water for each pound of honey; put the 
 honey, water, chalk, and eggs into a copper vessel that will hold 
 jabout one-third more, let them boil for two minutes, throw in the 
 coal, mixing it with a spoon and continuing the boiling two minutes 
 longer; then take the saucepan from the fire and let it stand nearly a 
 quarter of an hour that the liquor may cool, then take a new sieve, 
 it must be well washed or it will impart a disagreeable taste, pass 
 the honey through, taking care to filter the first drops twice, as 
 they generally carry with them a portion of coal : the syrup which 
 still adheres to the coal and other materials may be separated as 
 follows — pour boiling water on them till they no longer retain any 
 sweetness, then put these waters together, set them over a large fire 
 to evaporate until the syrup only remains. 
 
 1636. ISINGLASS, TO CLARIFY. 
 
 c Take two ounces of the clearest isinglass for a mould of jelly, 
 put it in a stewpan with water enough to cover it, set it by a stove 
 with a spoon in it to stir it and skim it when any scum rises; let it 
 boil very gently and well reduce, be careful not to reduce too much 
 as it will burn and spoil your jelly, when you think it is reduced 
 enough pass it through a sieve ready for use. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 405 
 
 1637. ISINGLASS, TO CLARIFY. 
 
 Take an ounce and a half of the best isinglass, cut it into pieces 
 and wash them in warm water several times, put the isinglass into 
 a stewpan with five glasses of filtered water, set it on the fire, and 
 as soon_ as it boils set it at the side of the stove so a3 to keep up 
 the boiling; take off the scum as soon as it rises, and when the 
 whole is reduced to three quarters strain it through a cloth into a 
 
 r»n ein -rrw* 110a 
 
 basin for use. 
 
 1638. IRON SPOTS ON MARBLE. 
 
 To remove iron spots from marble, mix equal quantities of spirit of 
 vitriol and lemon juice; shake it well, wet the spots with the mixture, 
 and in a few minutes rub with a soft linen, until they are completely 
 effaced. 
 
 1639. — ink spots. 1 
 As soon as the accident happens wet the place with juice of sorrel 
 or lemon, or with vinegar, and the best hard white soap. 
 
 1640. MIXTURE FOR CLEANING PAVEMENTS. 
 
 Boil together half a pint each of size and stone-blue water with 
 two table-spoonfuls of whiting and two cakes of pipe-makers' clay in 
 about two quarts of water ; wash the stones over with a flannel 
 slightly wetted in this mixture, and when dry rub them with flannel 
 and brush. 
 
 1641. OFFENSIVE SMELLS. 
 
 One of the best and most pleasant disinfectants is coffee ; the sim- 
 plest way to use it is to pound the well-dried raw beans in a mortar 
 and strew the powder over a moderately-heated iron plate. The 
 simple traversing of the house with a roaster containing freshly 
 roasted coffee will clear it of offensive smells. 
 
 1642. TO PRESERVE EGGS. 
 
 Apply with a brush a solution of gum arabic to the shells, or im- 
 merse the eggs therein; let them dry, and afterwards pack them in dry 
 charcoal dust, this prevents their being affected by any alterations of 
 temperature. 
 
 1643. TO PERFUME LINEN. 
 
 Rose leaves, dried in the shade or at about four feet from a stove, 
 one pound ; of cloves, carraway seeds, and allspice, of each one ounce ; 
 pound in a mortar, or grind in a mill ; dried salt a quarter of a pound 
 mix all these together, and put the compound into little bags. 
 
406 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 1644. — BATS AND MICE. 
 
 The asphodel is useful in driving away rats and mice, which have 
 such an antipathy to this plant that if their holes be stopped up 
 ■with it they will ratherjlie than pass where it has been placed. 
 
 1645. TO RESTORE STALE BEER. 
 
 To about a quart of stale beer put half a tea-spoonful of salt of 
 wormwood, this will restore the beer and make it sparkle when 
 poured into a glass like bottled porter. 
 
 1646. — RICE MILK. 
 
 Take some rice — one ounce for each person — wash it well in warm 
 water, then put it in boiling milk, and boil it for two or three hours 
 over a slow fire, stirring often, adding salt or sugar to liking, and 
 cinnamon. 
 
 1647. — TO TAKE STAINS OUT OF SILKS. 
 
 Mix together in a phial two ounces of essence of lemon, and one 
 ounce of oil of turpentine. 
 
 Grease and other spots in silks are to be rubbed gently with a 
 linen rag dipped in the above composition. 
 
 1648. TO EXTRACT GREASE SPOTS FROM SILKS, MUSLINS, ETC. 
 
 Scrape French chalk, put it on the grease spot, and hold it near 
 the fire, or over a warm iron or water-plate filled with boiling water, 
 the grease will melt, and the French chalk absorb it, brush or rub it 
 off; repeat if necessary. 
 
 1649. A SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM. 
 
 Beat up the whole of a fresh egg in a basin, and then pour boiling 
 tea over it gradually, to prevent its curdling, it is difficult from the 
 taste to distinguish it from rich cream. 
 
 1 650. — SAGO 
 
 Should be put to soak for an hour in cold water to take off the earthy 
 taste, pour off that and add fresh water, and simmer until the sago is 
 quite clear. Put in with the fresh water a little spice and a slice of 
 lemon peel. A glass of white or red wine and sugar may be added 
 to taste. 
 
 1651. TO TAKE MILK FROM CREAM. 
 
 Use a syphon, and draw off the milk from beneath the surface of 
 the cream, and thus completely separate the two liquids by the 
 simplest means and with the least possible trouble. 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 407 
 
 1652. UTILITY OP NETTLES. 
 
 Steel dipped in the juice of the nettle becomes flexible, lint 
 dipped in nettle juice put up the nostril has been known to stay the 
 bleeding of the nose, when other remedies have failed, and fourteen 
 or fifteen of the seeds ground into powder and taken daily will cure 
 the swelling in the neck known by the name of goitre, without in 
 any way injuring the general system. 
 
 1653. USEFUL KNIFE BOARD. 
 
 Cover a common knife-board with buff-leather on which are put 
 emery one part, crocus martis three parts in very fine powder, mixed 
 into a thick paste with a little lard or sweet oil, and spread on the 
 leather to the thickness of a shilling. This method gives a far supe- 
 rior edge and polish to the knife than the common practice of using 
 brickdust on a board. 
 
408 GLOSSARY. 
 
 A GLOSSARY OP FOREIGN TERMS USED IN COOKERY, BILLS 
 OE FARE, ETC. 
 
 Atelets. Small silver skewers. 
 
 Baba. A French sweet yeast cake. 
 
 Bain Marie. A flat vessel containing boiling water, intended to hold also other 
 saucepans for the purpose either of cooking or keeping their contents hot. 
 
 Bouquet. A bunch of parsley and scalfions tied up to put in soups, &c. 
 
 Bouquet garni, or Assaisonni. The same, with the addition of cloves or 
 aromatic herbs. 
 
 Bourguignote. A ragout of truffles. 
 
 Braise. This is a method of dressing meat, poultry, &c. without evaporation. 
 It is done by lining a braising pan with thin slices of bacon, beef, or ^veal ; upon 
 which place whatever you may intend to braise ; and also add carrots, onions, 
 lemons, bay leaf, herbs, pepper, and Bait. 
 
 Brioche. A French yeast cake. 
 
 Buisson {en). A fanciful mode of dressing up pastry, &c. 
 
 Capilotade. A hash of poultry. 
 
 Civet. A hash of game or wild fowl. 
 
 Compeigne. A French sweet yeast cake, with fruit, &c. 
 
 Compote. A mixed ragout to garnish white poultry, &c; also a method of 
 Stewing fruit with syrup for desserts. 
 
 Compotier. A dish in the dessert service purposely for the compote. 
 
 Consommi. A clear gravy, very strong ; see receipt. 
 
 Couronne (en). To serve any prescribed articles on a dish in the form of a 
 crown. 
 
 Court or short, to stew. The reduction of a sauce until it becomes very thick. 
 
 Croquettes. A mince of fish, meat, poultry, or rice. 
 
 Croustade. Bread baked in a mould, and scooped out to contain minces, &c. j 
 
 Croutons. Bread cut in various shapes and fried lightly in butter or oil. 
 
 Dorez. To wash pastry, &c, with yolk of egg well beaten. 
 
 Dorure. Yolks of eggs well beaten. 
 
 " En ■papillate.'' White paper is greased with oil or butter, and then folded 
 over a cutlet or small fish, fastening it by screwing the paper at the edges. 
 
 Entries are dishes served at the commencement or during the first course of 
 the dinner. 
 
 Entremets. Small ornamental dishes served in the second and third courses. 
 
 Financiere. An expensive, highly flavoured, mixed ragout. 
 
 Flan. A French custard. 
 
 Glaze ' (to). To reduce sauces to a jelly, and they will adhere to the meat. 
 
 Glaze is made usually from reduced consommi, or juices from the bottoms of 
 braised white meats. It should be preserved in jelly pots. 
 
 Glaze, Glace, or Ice, is composed of white of egg beaten with powdered sugar. 
 
 Godiveau. A common veal forcemeat. 
 
 Gras (au), expresses that the article is dressed with meat gravy. 
 
 Gratin. A layer of any article intended for this purpose is spread over a dish 
 that will bear the fire, and is placed on a stove or hot ashes until it burns. 
 
 Hors d'avuvre. A small dish served during the first course. 
 
 Lard (to). To stick bacon, or whatever meat may be named,into poultry, meat, 
 
EEMOVES, ENTREES, AND ENTREMETS. 
 
 409 
 
 &c. It is accomplished with a larding pin, an engraving of which is given, one 
 end of which is square and one hollow. The lardon is put into this hollow, the 
 point is then inserted in the meat, and on being drawn through leaves the bacon or 
 lardon standing in its proper place. It requires practice to do this well. 
 
 Lardon. The pieces into which bacon or other meats are cut for the purpose of 
 larding. 
 
 Liaison. A finish with yolks of eggs and cream for ragoiits and sauces. 
 
 Madeleines. Cakes made of the same composition as pound cakes. 
 
 Maigre (au). Soups, Sec. dressed without meat. 
 
 Marinade. A prepared pickle for meat, fish, &c. 
 
 Mask. To cover completely. 
 
 Meringue. A light confection formed of sugar and whites of eggs beaten to a 
 fine froth. 
 
 Nouilles. An Italian paste resembling macaroni, it is flat instead of being in 
 pipes. 
 
 Panada. Bread soaked in milk, used principally for quenelles and fine farces. 
 
 Passer. To fry lightly. 
 
 Pate. A raised crust pie. 
 
 Poilie. A light braise for white meats ; the difference between this and the 
 braise is that in the former, the meat, or whatever it may be, need not be so much 
 done as the latter. 
 
 Potage. A term for soup. 
 
 Puree. Any meat, fish, or other article boiled to a pulp, and rubbed through a 
 sieve. See Pur6e presser. 
 
 Quenelles. A fine farce ; when used it is generally poached. 
 
 Rissoles. A mince of meat or fish ; in paste it is formed into a variety of shapes 
 for side dishes, balls being the more frequent mode when used as a garnish. 
 
 Roux. A thickening for white soups and gravies. 
 
 Salmi. A hash very highly seasoned, 
 
 Sauter. To fry very lightly. 
 
 Sabotiere or Saubetiere. A pewter or tin vessel in which are placed the moulds 
 containing whatever is intended to be frozen. 
 
 Tammy. A silk sieve. 
 
 Tourner or turn. To stir a sauce ; also to pare and cut roots, vegetables, and 
 fruits very neatly. 
 
 Tourte. A puff paste pie. 
 
 Vanner. To take up sauce or any other liquid in a spoon and turn it over 
 very quickly. 
 
 Velouti. For heightening the flavours of soups, made dishes, &c. 
 
 Vol-au-vent. An extremely light puff paste, in which is enclosed minces of 
 sweetbread, poultry, game, &c. 
 
 NAMES OF TOP REMOVE DISHES. 
 
 3 Chickens, with 4 sheeps' tongues. 
 2 Chickens, with ox-tongue. 
 
 2 Chickens, with cauliflower. 
 
 3 Chickens, with a fancy bread basket 
 filled with green peas. 
 
 Noix de veau and stewed peas ; 
 Or, cucumber sauce ; 
 Or, spinach do. 
 Or, endive do. 
 Or, French beans do. 
 Chevaux de frieze lamb, with cucum- 
 bers ; 
 
 Or, with stewed peas ; 
 
 Or, with sweatbreads larded. 
 
 Chevaux de frieze mutton, with puree 
 of turnips ; 
 
 Or, with cucumbers ; 
 
 Or, with peas ; 
 
 Or, with capons. 
 
 Vol-au-vent of sweetbreads ; 
 
 Or, chicken. 
 
 Timbale of macaroni, with sweetbreads; 
 
 Or, with truffles and chickens ; 
 
 Or, with veal. 
 
 Turban of palates of beef done white, 
 with mushrooms ; 
 
 Or, with truffles ; 
 
 Or, with cucumbers ; 
 
410 
 
 REMOVES, ENTREES, AND ENTREMETS. 
 
 Or, with carrots and turnips j 
 Or, Italienne. 
 
 Galantine of real with stewed peas; 
 Or, with mushrooms ; 
 Or, with asparagus. 
 Calf s head a la tourte ; ] 
 Or, with mushrooms ; 
 Or, with truffles ; 
 Or, with bread crumbs and capers. 
 [ Capon, boned and forced, mushrooms ; 
 Or, with truffles ; 
 Or, Italienne. 
 
 Turkey, boned and forced, with tongue; 
 Or, plain, with oyster sauce. 
 Capon, plain, braised, and oyster sauce. 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Espagnolets, sweetbreads, and plovers' 
 eggs, or pullets'. 
 
 Espagnole of rice, with chicken or young 
 rabbit, with plovers' eggs and whole truf- 
 fles. 
 
 Turban of lamb sweatbreads. 
 
 Small timbale, macaroni and truffles. 
 
 Quenelles, garnished with plovers' eggs 
 and whole truffles. 
 
 Cutlets, fowl or turkey, with tongue and 
 cucumbers. 
 
 Bourdins a la reine. 
 
 Vol-au-vent a la fricassee. 
 
 ENTREES OF MUTTON. 
 
 Haricot mutton. 
 Cutlets do. 
 Saute 
 Rissoles 
 Braised 
 Hashed 
 Emincet 
 Irish stew do. ' 
 Fillets do. 
 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 do. 
 
 Tomato. 
 
 Cucumber. 
 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 Italian. 
 
 Endive. 
 
 Turnips. 
 
 Onion. 
 
 Pouverade. 
 
 Puree Sobiese. 
 
 Haricot. 
 
 Lentils. .:• , 
 
 Peas. 
 Indienne. 
 Puree turnips. ' 
 French beans. 
 Capers. 
 Spinach. 
 
 ENTREES OF LAMB. 
 
 Cutlets. 
 
 Tendons. 
 
 Haricot. 
 
 Blanc. 
 
 Sweatbreads. 
 
 Chevaux de frieze. 
 
 Sauti. 
 
 Braised. 
 
 Rissoles. 
 
 Patties. 
 
 Papillotes. 
 
 Trotters. 
 Head. 
 
 Puree of peas. 
 
 Tomato. 
 
 Spinach. 
 
 Sorrel. 
 
 Endive. 
 
 Mushroom. 
 
 Italian. 
 
 Truffles. 
 
 French beans. 
 
 Sobiese. 
 
 Button beans. 
 
 Turnips. 
 
 Do. puree. 
 
 Cucumber. 
 
 Fricandeau. 
 
 ENTREMETS. 
 
 Gateau a la Genoises Modina. 
 Gateau a la Neapolitaine marmalad e. 
 Gateau chocolate, with cream. 
 Sandwich pastry, with caramel top. 
 Vol-au-vent marmalade, sugar top. 
 Albert pudding. 
 Queen's pudding, with vanilla. 
 Almond pudding, with jelly. 
 Puree rice pudding, with maraschino. 
 Savoy pudding, with dried cherries, 
 with Noyeau. 
 Cheesecakes hot. 
 Jellies. 
 Creams. 
 
BILLS OF FAKE. 
 
 411 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 Calves' feet soup a la turtle. 
 Crimped cod. 
 Tongue and cheeks- 
 Mushroom sauce. 
 Timbale of pullets. Mutton cutlets. 
 
 Beef. Cucumbers. 
 
 Haricot beans. Vol-au-vent. 
 
 | Fillet of soles. Sweetmeats and 
 
 Maitre d'h6tel. ragout. 
 
 Saddle of mutton. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast fowl. 
 Pastry fancy. Orange jelly. 
 
 , Noyeau cream. Sea kale. 
 
 Roast hare. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 Oyster soup. 
 Turbot. 
 Noix de veau a la financiere. 
 Lamb cutlets. Tongue and 
 
 cheeks. 
 Cucumbers. Cutlets with 
 
 mushrooms. 
 Tendons of veal. Casserolettes with 
 Tomata sauce. saute 1 Italian 
 
 sauce. 
 Saddle of mutton. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast pheasants with twelve larks round. 
 Vol-au-vent. Timbale of apple. 
 
 Cranberries. Fried artichokes. 
 
 I Orange jelly. 
 
 Hare boned. 
 
 Potage a la printemps. 
 Releve par les petits poulets aux cham- 
 pignons. 
 Les c6telettes de Les grenadinB aux 
 mouton a la pois d'asperges. 
 
 sobiese. 
 
 Du saumon boulli. 
 
 Releve par le breuf rfiti. 
 
 Table de c6te, Table de cdte, 
 
 Pates a la reine. Un jambon a 1» 
 
 braise. 
 
 Un chapon r&ti. 
 
 Plum pudding a Gelee du vin de 
 
 l'anglaise. madere. 
 
 Les champignons a l'Stuvees. 
 
 Releve parle souffle aux fleurs d'orange. 
 
 Soupe a la Windsor. 
 Releve 1 ; un quartier d' agneau r8ti. 
 Fricandeau de Emince de volailles 
 
 veau a la jardiniere. garnie des 
 
 croquettes. 
 Poisson ; un turbot garni de filets de soles. 
 Releve" ; un aitch bone de boeuf bouilli. 
 Decxi^me Sertice. 
 Les petits poulets rotis. 
 La gelee de vin. Pomme de terre a 
 
 la maitre d'h&tel. 
 L'asperges. Creme de 
 
 Chantilly. 
 L'oison r6ti. 
 Side table. 
 Filet de turbot a 
 la maitre d'hfltel. 
 
 APRIL. 
 Potage a la printemps. 
 RelevS par un pate" ehaud. 
 Filets de pigeon C6telettes d'agneau 
 au naturel. pate's aux concom- 
 
 bres. 
 Le poisson. 
 RelevS par un selle de mouton r&ti. 
 ' Table de cote, 
 Petits pates a la 
 reine. 
 
 Un chapon r6ti. 
 Gelee de noyeau Un perdrix de 
 
 rouge. gaufres a la 
 
 Chantilli. 
 Les champignons a l'etuvees. 
 Releve ; les sandwiches au parmesane a 
 l'ecarlates. 
 
 Soupe a la tartuffes. 
 Releve^ ; les poulets et langue de hceuf 
 jardiniere. 
 C6telettes Gibelettes de 
 
 d'agneau. lapereau aux 
 
 Pane 1 a l'italienne. champignons. 
 
 Poisson ; 
 De turbot garni de merlans frits. 
 
 Le carre de mouton rdti. 
 Side table. 
 Les huitres au 
 gratin. 
 
 Detjxieme Service. 
 
 Un dindonneau piqu(5 r6ti. 
 
 Gelee de vin. L'asperges. 
 
 Les pommes de Biscuits a la 
 
 terre en salade. Chantilly. 
 
 Des pigeons r6tis. 
 
 Lamb cutlets and asparagus, 
 
 Souffle pudding. 
 
412 
 
 BILLS OP FARE. 
 
 Soupe a la Windsor. 
 Relev6 ; longe de veau a la bechamel. 
 Cdtelettes de Poulets dScoupes 
 
 mouton. aux points des 
 
 Saute aux fines asperges. 
 
 herbes. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Turbot bouilli et frit. 
 
 Releve ; jambon braise aux legumes. 
 
 Table de c6t£, carre de mouton r6ti. 
 
 DeuxiAme Service. 
 
 Un dindonneau rdti. 
 Biscuit a la Les huitres aux 
 
 Chantilly. gratins. 
 
 L'asperges Une gelee 
 
 d'oranges. 
 Les pigeons r6tis. 
 
 Soupe a la jardiniere, 
 t Releve ; quartier d'agneau rfiti. 
 Cfitelettes d'agneau Une fricassee de 
 pane aux haricots lapereau aux 
 
 verts. champignons. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Dn turbot bouilli. 
 Releve ; poitrine de boeuf au gros sal. 
 Table de cdtg, petits pates aux huJtres. 
 
 Deuxi£iie Service. 
 
 Deux petits poulets r6tis. 
 
 Gelee de vin. L'asperges a 
 
 1'anglaise. 
 
 Les choux-fleurs Gateau a la 
 
 au beurre. duchesse. 
 
 Deux canards rcHis. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Potage aux puree de carottes. 
 Releve' ; les poulets braises garnis a la 
 
 printaniere. 
 Les c6telettes Saut6 de ris de 
 
 d'agneau pane a la veau a l'ecarlate. 
 
 marechal. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Un turbot bouilli. 
 
 Relev£ ; un jambon garni de chou-croute. 
 
 Table de cfite. 
 
 Un carr6 de 
 
 mouton roti et les 
 
 rougets aux fines 
 
 herbes. 
 
 DeuxiIme Service. ''■ 
 
 Les canetons rods. 
 La gelee d'oranges. L'asperges. 
 
 Du macaroni au Le biscuit a la 
 
 gratin. Chantilli. 
 
 Les pigeons rotis. 
 
 Soupe vermicelli claire. 
 Releve ; les poulets a la jardiniere. 
 Les fricandeau Compote de pigeon 
 
 pique a l'oseille. a l'espagnole. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Turbot bouilli. 
 Releve ; le carr£ de mouton roti. 
 Seconde Service. 
 Deux petits levrauts rfltis. 
 Charlotte a la L'asperges. 
 
 russe. Gateau a la d'ar- 
 
 Salade d'homard. toise. 
 
 Le caneton roti. 
 Side table. — Petits pates. 
 
 Soupe aux concombres. 
 Releve" ; chapon aux choux-fleurs. 
 Pieds d'agneau Saute de boeuf 
 
 a la poulette. aux fines herbes. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Les rougets sauce italienne. 
 Releve ; jambon braise aux epinards. j 
 Seconde Service. 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 L'asperges Creme al'oranges. 
 
 Les gateau a gros Salade d'homard. 
 sauce. 
 
 Les pigeons. 
 Side Table. — Filets de soles frits. 
 
 Soupe au puree aux concombres. 
 Releve ; un gigot d'agneau aux epinards. 
 Les pieds d'agneau Les ris de veau 
 
 a la poulette. piques a 1'anglaise. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Turbot bouilli. 
 RelevS ; le boeuf roti a 1'anglaise. 
 Seconde Service. 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 L'asperges. Boudin aux raisins. 
 
 CrSme au bain- Les ceufs des 
 
 marie. pluviers. 
 
 Les pigeons rotis. 
 Side table. — Rougets aux fines herbes. 
 
 Potage a la printemps. 
 Releve ; par un chapon a la financiere. 
 Cdtele'.tes , Le galimafree 
 
 d'agneau aux de volaille. 
 
 epignards. 
 
 Les rougets a l'italienne. 
 
 Relev6 ; un selle de mouton r6ti. 
 
 DeuxiAme Service. 
 
 Les canetons r6tis. 
 
 L'asperges. Gelee de noyeau. 
 
 Gateau a la Une salade 
 
 duchesse. d'homard fraise. j 
 
 Les pigeons rotis. 
 
 Side table. — Petits pates au salpicon. 
 
BILLS OP FARE. 
 
 4-13 
 
 Soupe aux ris et puree de petitsj poulets. 
 
 RelevG ; un quartier d'agneau r6ti. 
 Une fricassee de Cotelettes de 
 
 laperaugarnie des mouton glac£ a la 
 quenelles de jardiniere, 
 
 volaille. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Les rongets sauce a l'italienne. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Deux eanetons rdtis. 
 L'asperges. Boudin a la 
 
 : Les petits ehoux cabinet. 
 
 ■i la magne Les choux-fleurs 
 
 au beurre. 
 Les pigeons rotis. 
 Table de cdt6 ; petits pates. 
 Pommes de terre nouvelles. 
 
 Soupe a la jardiniere. 
 
 Relev£; les petits poulets a la printaniere. 
 
 Tendons de veau C6telettes d'agneau 
 
 Glac£ aux pan 6s a 
 
 concombres. l'italienne. 
 
 Du poisson. 
 
 Releve ; le selle de mouton rdti. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Le pintade pique. 
 L'asperges. Les beignets 
 
 anglo-francais. 
 La gel6e du vin. Les pommes de 
 
 terre a la mattre 
 d'hdtel. 
 Deux eanetons rdtis. 
 Table de cdte" ; 
 Petits pat^B a la mazarine. 
 
 Soupe vermicelli a la Windsor. 
 Relev6 ; un gigot d'agneau aux epinards. 
 Ris de veau piqu£ Les poulets d&- 
 
 a l'oseille. coupes a la 
 
 printaniere. 
 Poisson. 
 1 Les rougets aux fines herbes. 
 Releve' ; breuf rdti a 1'anglaise. 
 Les petits poulets. 
 Gelee du vin. Les ceufs des plu- 
 
 viers au nature!. 
 L'asperges. Boudin aux raisins 
 
 a 1'anglaise. 
 Deux eanetons rotis. 
 ' Table de cdte. 
 
 Les maquereaux garnis des filets de soles 
 , frits. 
 
 Potage vermicelli a la Windsor. 
 
 Relev6 ; l'oison rdti aux chou-croutes. 
 
 Deux Entrees. 
 
 Le fricandeau de veau piqug a l'osaille. 
 
 Les poulets de coupes aux pois d'asperges. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Du saumon a la maravin. 
 
 Le selle de mouton rdti. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Deux petits poulets rdtis. 
 
 L'asperges au Gelee du vin. 
 
 naturel. Timbale de 
 
 Les meringues. macaroni. 
 
 Les pigeons rdtis. 
 
 Table de cdte ; filets de soles frits. 
 
 Pates au jus. 
 
 Soupe au puree aux concombres. 
 Relev6 ; le quartier d'agneau rdti. 
 Les eanetons de- Les petits poulets 
 
 coupSsalabi- en membres garnis 
 
 garade. a la printaniere. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Relev6; un aitch bone of beef. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les dindonneaux piques rdtis. 
 La gelee du vin. Salade des 
 
 homards. 
 L'asperges. Meringues a la 
 
 Chantilli. 
 Les pigeons rdtis. 
 Les croquettes. 
 Suet pudding. 
 
 Potage a la printemps. 
 Releve ; un carr£ de bceuf a ]a jardiniere. 
 (Juatre Entrees. 
 Les poulets d£- Cotelettes d'agneau, 
 coupes aux pois. pane' a la mardchal. 
 Ris de veau pique" Petits pate's a la 
 
 a la l'oseille. vin. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Du saumon bouilli. 
 Relevf; ; un jambon brais6 aux Epinards. 
 Loin of mutton 
 on side table. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Petits poulets rdtis. 
 Petits pois au La gel& au fraise. 
 
 naturel. 
 La tourte de L'asperges. 
 
 Caneton rdti. 
 
414 
 
 BILLS OP FARE. 
 
 Potage au pois verts. 
 , Releve; les pouleta braises a la jardiniere. 
 
 Quatres Entrees. 
 
 Cotelettes d'agneau Un saute de vo- 
 
 aux haricots verts. laille aux truffes. 
 
 Lea croquettes des Filets de merlans 
 
 lis de veau frits. a la hollondaise. 
 
 Turbot houilli. 
 
 Le jambon braise aux epinards. 
 
 Side table, 
 
 Neck of mutton roast. 
 
 Deuxi&me Service. 
 
 Un pintade pique. 
 Petits pois au Gelee de vin. 
 
 naturel. 
 
 Le panier L'asperges. 
 
 a la Chantilly. 
 
 Deux canetons r6tia. 
 
 Soupe a la faubonne. 
 Releve' ; le carre de boeuf a la jardiniere. 
 
 Quatke Entrees. 
 
 Les filets de merlans Les friteaux de 
 a la cardinal. volaille a la portu- 
 
 Cdtelettes de poi- gaise. 
 
 trine d'agneau Les petits vol-au- 
 
 aux haricots verts. vent a la reine. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot et filets de soles. 
 Un selle de mouton rdti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Deux canetons rdtis. 
 Gelee du vin. L'asperges. 
 
 Petits pois. Le marasquin a la 
 
 Chantilly. 
 Le pintade rdti. 
 
 Soupe a la hollandaise. 
 
 Relevg; les poulets braises aux chouxfleurs. 
 
 Les filets de Cdtelettes _ 
 
 lapereau garnis d'agneau garnis 
 
 d'urie macedoine. des haricots verts. 
 
 Le poisson. 
 Releve ; carre de boeuf a la flamande. 
 Gelee garni de L'asperges. 
 
 puree. 
 
 Salade Les choux a la 
 
 d'homard. magnat. 
 
 Les pigeons. 
 Side table, 
 fillet de turbot a 
 la creme pain 
 mutton roast. 
 
 Soupe a la jardiniere. 
 
 Releve ; les petits poulets a la grillion. ' 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Les ris de veau Cotelettes panes 
 
 a 1'oseille. aux haricots 
 
 verts. 
 Filets de sole Fricassee de 
 
 a la mattre poulets, sauce aux 
 
 d'h6tel. concombres. 
 
 Du poisson. 
 
 Un turbot bouilli au naturel. 
 
 Releve ; le selle de mouton rdti. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Le caneton rdti. 
 L'asperges. La gelee du vin 
 
 aux fraises. 
 Tourte de Petits pois au 
 
 groseille. naturel. 
 
 Les pigeons rdtis. 
 
 Puree de pois vert. 
 
 Le carre de boeuf aux legumes. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Filets de turbot Cotelettes de poi- 
 
 a la creme. trine d'agneau aux 
 
 concombres. 
 L'emince de veau Les petits pates 
 
 a la polonnaise. a la toulouse. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot bouilli. 
 Selle de mouton rdti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Deux petite poulets idti. 
 Petits pois. Le creme a 
 
 Les tartelettes l'anglaise. 
 
 de groseille. L'asperges. 
 
 Le caneton rdti. 
 
 Potage a la printaniere. 
 
 Releve ; les poulets braises aux 
 
 choux-fleurs. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Les canetons de- Casserole au ris 
 
 coupes aux pois. garnie de puree 
 
 de volaille. 
 Petits pates garnis Cdtelettes de 
 
 des rognons de mouton panes aux 
 
 coqs. haricots verts. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Les rougets aux fines herbes. 
 
 Releve ; un gigot de mouton rdti. 
 
 Deux canetons rdti. 
 L'asperges. Gelee de Noyeau. 
 
 Creme au Les petits pois au 
 
 groseilles. naturel. 
 
 Les pigeons rdti. 
 
BILLS OP FAKE. 
 
 415 
 
 Soupe hoehepot de legumes. 
 
 RelevS ; les poulets a la printaniere. 
 
 Lea casserolettes Les cdtelettes 
 
 au ris aux oeufs d'agneau pan6 a la 
 
 de pluviers. marechal. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Releve ; le gigot de mouton r6ti. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Les levrauts rdtis. 
 
 L'asperges. Crdme du caf6. 
 
 Tourte de Magnonnaise de 
 
 groseille. sauinon. 
 
 Le caneton rdti. 
 
 Side table. — Les croquettes. 
 
 Potage au legumes au l'oison. 
 RelevS ; quartier d'agneau rdti. 
 Tendons de veau Cdtelettes de 
 
 garnis d'une mouton sautS 
 
 macedoine. aux concombres. 
 
 Les lougets aux fines heibes. 
 Relev6; les petits poulets aux choux-fleurs. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Deux petits le>rauts rdtis. 
 L'asperges. Gelee d'orange. 
 
 Le tourte de Salade d'homard. 
 
 groseille. 
 
 Les pigeons rdtis. 
 
 Potage aux legumes a la hollandaise. 
 Keleve ; une poitrine de bceuf au gros sel. 
 
 Les cdtelettes Les poulets d£- 
 
 panees et glac£es. coupes a la 
 
 printaniere. 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot garni des merlans. 
 Releve"; le selle de mouton r&ti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 La poularde rdtie. 
 L'asperges. Gelee d'orange. 
 
 Le tourte de Salade d'homard. 
 
 groseille. 
 
 Les pigeons rdtis. 
 Side table. — Les rougets aux fines herbes. 
 
 Potage a la hollandaise. 
 Releve ; le gigot d'agneau aux epinards, 
 Le fricandeau de L'6minc£ de 
 
 veau pique aux mouton aux 
 
 champignons. concombres. 
 
 Le turbot et merlans frits. 
 RelevS ; le bceuf rdti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 L'asperges. Gelee du vin. 
 
 Boudinaux Salade d'homard, 
 
 raisins. 
 
 Le caneton rdti. 
 Side table. — Petits patls a la reine. 
 
 Soupe a la brunoise. 
 
 Releve' ; un quartier d'agneau rdti. 
 
 Les ris de veau Les casserolettes 
 
 piqu6s aux de ris garnies de 
 
 champignons. puree de volaille. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Turbot boulli et merlans frits. 
 
 Aitch bone of beef boiled. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 La poularde rdtie. 
 Gel£e d'oranges. L'asperges. 
 
 Salade d'homard. Creme de 
 
 groseille. 
 Le caneton rdti. 
 Green peas. 
 Petits pates a la reine. 
 Suet pudding. 
 
 Potage a la jardiniere. 
 
 Relevd; lespetits poulets aux ehoux-fleurs. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Les ris de veau L'emincS de 
 
 piques a l'oseille. volaille a la reine, 
 
 garnie des casse- 
 rolettes au lis. 
 Les petitB vol-au- Les cdtelettes de 
 
 vent gamis de poitrine d'agneau 
 
 rognons de coqs. pan£. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot bouilli au naturel. 
 Relev£ ; le gigot du mouton rdti. 
 Deuxieme Sesvioe. 
 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 
 Les petits pois. Gelee d'orange. 
 
 Creme aux L'asperges. 
 
 Le levraut. 
 Pommes de terre nouvelles. 
 
 Un potage a la printaniere. 
 Releve; longe de veau a la bechamel. 
 
 Deuxieme Entrees. 
 Les canetons de- Eminc6 de boeuf 
 
 coupes aux pois a la portugaise. 
 
 d'asperges. 
 Relev6; un jambon braisfi aux 
 epinards. 
 Les petits poulets rdtis. 
 Charlotte a la La gelee de vin. 
 
 russe. 
 L'asperges. Le magnonnaise 
 
 de saumon. 
 Les pigeons. 
 Croquettes de ris de veau. 
 Boeuf rdti. 
 
416 
 
 BILLS OF FAKE. 
 
 Fotage aux legumes et tendons. 
 Releve ; le gigot d'agneau aux epinards. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cfitelettes de Petits pates 
 
 mouton a la garnis de salpicon 
 
 marechal. aux oeufs. 
 
 Les petits poulets Le fiicandeau 
 
 decoupes aux pique" aux 
 
 concombres. tomates. 
 
 Les tranches de saumon 
 garnies de filets de soles frits. 
 Le boeuf r&ti a l'anglaise. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les petits poulets rotis. 
 1 Petits pois an Boudin aux 
 
 naturel. raisins. 
 
 Tourte de 
 
 groseille. L'asperges. 
 
 Deux canetons rfitis. 
 
 Soupe a, la reine. 
 Rel. Longe de veau rStie a la bechamel. 
 
 Qcjatre Entrees. 
 
 Les c6telettes Saut6 de ris de 
 
 d'agneau panees a veau aux haricots 
 
 la mareeha!. verts. 
 
 Petit vol-au-vent Les tranches 
 
 garni a la de boeuf a la 
 
 toulouse. francaise. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Les tranches de saumon, garnies avec les 
 filets de soles frits. 
 Un selle de mouton r6ti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les canetons r6tis. 
 Petits pois au Le tourte de 
 
 . naturel. groseille. 
 
 Les meringues a L'asperges. 
 
 la Chantilli. 
 
 Le pintade pique. 
 
 Soupe a la point d'asperges. 
 
 RelevG ; l'oison au chou-crofite a 
 
 1'allemande. 
 
 Les ris de veau Les quenelles de 
 
 piques garnis volaille a la 
 
 d'unemac6doine. toulouse. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Les rougets aux fines herbes. 
 
 Releve ; selle de mouton r6ti. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Les petits poulets. 
 
 Les genoise L'asperges. 
 
 glace. 
 Les oeufs des Une gelee de 
 
 pluviers. noyeau. 
 
 Le pintade pique. 
 Table de c6te. 
 Les croquettes de volaille. 
 
 Potage hochepot des legumes et tendons 
 de veau. 
 
 Releve ; les petits poulets a la toulouse 
 
 aux truffes. 
 Les cdtelettes Les filets des soles 
 
 de mouton. sautes a la maitre 
 
 d'hdtel. 
 Les membres de La compote de 
 
 volailles aux pois pigeons a l'espag- 
 
 d'asperges. nole du champ. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Releve ; le quartier d'agneau r6ti. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Les canetons r6tis. 
 Les petits pois. Gelee du vin. 
 
 Les tartelettes des L'asperges. 
 
 groseilles. 
 
 Le levraut r6ti. 
 
 Soupe a la reine. 
 RelevS; earre de boeuf a la jardiniere. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Un petit poulet Cotelettes de 
 
 a la grillon. poitrine d'agneau 
 
 a la marechal. 
 Compote de Petits pates 
 
 pigeons a garnis d'iminc6 
 
 l'espagnole. de ris de veau. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Les tranches de saumon garnies de merlans 
 
 frits. 
 
 ! Reiev6 ; un selle de mouton rflti. ' 
 
 Les dindonneaux rotis. 
 Les petits pois. Gelee du vin 
 
 Tartelettes garnies aux pois. 
 
 de creme et L'asperges. 
 
 rhubarb. 
 
 Les canetons. 
 
 Potage a la julienne. 
 
 Relev6 ; un quartier d'agneau roti. 
 
 Les ris de veau Casserole au ris 
 
 piques a 1'oseille. avec les oeuefs de 
 
 pluviers et pieds 
 
 d'agneaux. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Les merlans au gratin. 
 
 Releve ; un aitch bone de boeuf bouilli. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Les poulets rotis. 
 Le marasquin Une salade 
 
 a la cr§me. ^d'homard. 
 
 Le caneton. 
 Side table. 
 Filets de soles frits. 
 Suet pudding. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 417 
 
 Soupe a la hollandaise. 
 
 Releve' ; les petits poulets a la royale. 
 
 Hachis de filets Fricassee de 
 
 de bceuf a la lapereau aux 
 
 portugnise. champignons. 
 
 Releve le selle de mouton rdti. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 L'asperges. Les genoises glac£ 
 
 au gros sucre. 
 Creme de Les pommes de 
 
 framboise, terre nouvelles. 
 
 Les pigeons rotis. 
 Table de cdt£. Petits de mouton au jus. 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 Soupe a la hollandaise. 
 Relev6 ; les petits poulets a la jardiniere. 
 
 Quarte Entrees. 
 
 Les cotelettes Les filets des soles. 
 
 d'agneau glac6es Saute a la maitre 
 
 aux haricots verts. d'hdtel. 
 
 Les croquettes de Le fricandeau 
 
 ris de veau a la piqu6 a l'oseille. 
 
 reine. 
 
 Poisson . 
 
 Le turbot bouilli et des merlans frits. 
 
 Releve ; de bceuf rdti a l'anglaise. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Le pintade pique roti. 
 Les pois au Les gaufres a la 
 
 naturel. Chantilly, garnis 
 
 Le boudin a de fraises. 
 
 l'anglaise. L'asperges. 
 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 
 Soupe a la jardiniere. 
 
 Relieve ; les petits poulets braises a chou- 
 
 fleur. 
 
 QuATRE ENTREES. 
 
 Les c6telettes SautS de ris de 
 
 d'agneau glacees veau aux haricots 
 
 aux pois. verts. 
 
 Les filets de soles Le fricandeau 
 
 a la maitre d'hdtel. pique aux points 
 d'asperges. 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot et des merlans frits. 
 Relevg ; un selle de mouton. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Le pintade r6ti. 
 La gelee aux Les petits pois au 
 
 fraises. naturel. 
 
 L'asperges. La crtSme des 
 
 groseilles. 
 Le caneton rdti. 
 
 , Potage a la printaniere. 
 Relev6 ; le chapon rdti, sauce espagnole. 
 
 Q,uatre Entreiss. 
 Filets de bceuf en Les petits pates 
 
 tranches piques et garnis de filets de 
 
 garnis de pommes soles a la maitre 
 
 de terre. d'hdtel. 
 
 Les poulets Les cdtelettes de 
 
 decoupes aux p6is mouton glacees 
 
 6tuv6es. aux concombres. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Spay Troute. 
 Relev6 ; le jambon braisG aux feve de 
 marais. 
 
 Side table. 
 Roast mutton. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 La gel6e du vin Les choux-fleurs 
 
 garnie de fraise. au beurre. 
 
 L'asperges. La tourte de 
 
 groseille. 
 Le pintade r6ti. 
 
 Soupe a la hollandaise. 
 Relevg ; un carr6 de venison rdti. 
 
 Qcatre Entrees. 
 Les cotelettes Petits poulets 
 
 d'agneau a la decoupes aux 
 
 marechal. petits pois etuvees. 
 
 Les petits pates Les ris de veau 
 
 garnis a la piqu£ a l'oseilles. 
 
 bechamel. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Le turbot garni des filets des soles. 
 
 Relevejla poitrine de bceuf ala printaniere. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Les dindonncaux piques. 
 
 La gelee du vin Les petits pois au 
 
 garnie du pois. naturel. 
 
 Les artichauts a Nougat a la 
 
 l'italienne. Chantilly. 
 
 Le levraut rdti. 
 
 Potage au puree d'asperges. 
 Relev6;lespouletsbraisesaux choux-fleurs. 
 Qcatre Entrees. 
 Le fricandeau Les petits pates 
 
 pique a l'oseille. garnis a l'ecarlate. 
 
 Le gibelottes de Cotelettes de 
 
 lapereau au poitrine d'agneau 
 
 champignons. aux haricots verts. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Spay truite. 
 RelevS ; le jambon braisS aux epinards. 
 Side table. 
 Mouton rdti. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Le pintade rdti. 
 
 Les pois au naturel. La gelee du vin. 
 
 Le panier a la Une salade 
 
 Chantilly. d'homard. 
 
 Les canetons. 
 
 E E 
 
418 
 
 BILLS OF FAEE. 
 
 Fotage a la hollandaise. 
 Releve ; les poulets et langue a la 
 jardiniere. 
 Qcatre Entrees. 
 Cdtelettes (Tag- Les petits pates a 
 
 neau a la l'espagnole. 
 
 marechal. 
 Les ris de veau La marinade des 
 pique 1 £ l'oseille. pieds de veau. 
 Poisson. 
 Les tranches du saumon a la tartare. 
 Releve' ; le bouilli bceuf a l'anglaise. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Le pintade pique. 
 '; Les pois verts. La tourte aux 
 
 Le boudin aux groseille. 
 
 raisins a l'anglaise. L'asperges. 
 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 
 Potage au puree des pois verts. 
 Relev6 ; un longe de veau a la bechamel. 
 
 QUATRE EnTKEES. 
 
 Petits pates garnis C6telettes de 
 
 d'ernincG de ris mouton panees 
 
 de veau. aux haricots verts, 
 
 . Un fricandeau Casserole au ris 
 
 a l'oseille. avec pau de 
 
 volaille. 
 Poisson. 
 Spay truite. 
 Releve' ; un quartier d'agneau r6ti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 Gelee du vin et Petits pois au 
 
 fraise. naturel. 
 
 L'asperges. Tourte de 
 
 groseilles. 
 Le pintade piqu6. 
 
 Potage aux legumes. 
 Relev6 ; le quartier d'agneau rdti. 
 Quatbe Entrees. 
 La fricassee de Les cdtelettes de 
 
 lapereau au poitrine d'agneau 
 
 champignons. pan£s. 
 
 Les ris de veau Les croquettes de 
 
 piques a l'oseille. volailles a la reine. 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot bouilli. 
 , Relevd ; aitch bone of beef. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les dindonneaux rdti. 
 Les tartelettes au Les artichauts frits, 
 fraise monte. 
 L'asperges. La gelee du vin. 
 
 Le levraut r6ti. 
 Side table. 
 Peas, new 
 potatoes, &c. 
 
 Soupe a In flamande. 
 
 Releve ; les poulets et langue a la 
 
 printaniere. 
 
 Qtjatre Entrees. 
 
 Les cdtelettes de Les petits pates 
 
 mouton glacees au garnis des ris de 
 
 concombre. veau au supreme. 
 
 Les filets de Les filets de 
 
 merlans a la boeuf piques sauce 
 
 hollandaise. au poivrade. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Les rougets sauce a l'italienne et des 
 
 merlans frits. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Le pintade rdti. 
 
 Gel6e garnie de Les pois au 
 
 fraise. naturel. 
 
 L'asperges. Le truite de 
 
 groseille. 
 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 
 Potage au pur^e des pois verts. 
 Relev£ ; la poitrine de bceuf a la prin- 
 taniere. 
 Les cdtelettes Petits pates garnis 
 
 d'agneau glacees des filets de soles 
 
 au pois d'asperges. a la maftre 
 
 d'hStel. 
 Le poulet decoupe' Saut£ de veau a la 
 aux pois 6tuvees. marechal. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Spay trout. 
 Relevd ; un selle de mouton. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les dindonneaux rdtis. 
 Saladed'homards. Un turban au 
 
 gateau de gros 
 sauce a la 
 Chantilly. 
 Gelee du vin, Les pois verts 
 
 garnie de fraise. etavees. 
 
 Le levraut. 
 
 Potage au puree de pois verts. 
 Releve ; le carre de bceuf a la flamande. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cdtelettes de poi- Tendons de veau 
 
 trine d'agneau a la aux pois etuv^es. 
 ~t marechal. 
 
 Petits vol-au-vent Sautfi de volaille 
 
 garnis des filets au suprdme aux 
 
 de soles. haricots verts. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot bouilli et merlans frits. 
 Relev6 ; un selle de mouton rdti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Le pintade. 
 La gelee du vin Les pois au 
 
 garnie du pain. naturel. 
 
 Choux-fleurs au Les gateaux aux 
 
 crdme. groseilles. 
 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 
BILLS OP FARE. 
 
 419 
 
 Potage a la printaniere. 
 Relev6; jambon braise aux feve de 
 marais. 
 Cdtelettes d'ag- Petite pittes de 
 
 neau pannes aux volaille a la 
 
 haricots verts. reine. 
 
 Les creases de Le fricandeau 
 
 poulets aux pois piqu£ a Toaeille. 
 
 fituvees. 
 
 i Poisson. 
 
 Spay truite. 
 Relevfi; les petite poulets aux choux-fleurs, 
 Dedxieme Service. 
 Le pintade roti. 
 La gelfie du vin Les pois au 
 
 garnie de fraise. naturel. 
 
 Les artichauts a la La tourte de 
 
 hollandaise. groseilles. 
 
 Les canetons rods. 
 
 Soupe a la printaniere. 
 RelevS ; les poulets choux-fleurs. 
 Qdatre Entrees. 
 Fricandeau pique Les filets de soles 
 a l'oseilles. a la hollandaise. 
 
 Les petite pates Les tendons de 
 
 de volaille aux veau garnis d'une 
 
 champignons. maeSdoine. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Dublin bay haddock. 
 Relev6 ; selle de mouton r6ti. 
 Dedxieme Service. 
 Le pintade r6ti. 
 Gelee du vin Les pois 6tuv6es. 
 
 garnie de fraise. 
 
 Les artichauts Les meringues a 
 
 garnis des points la Chantilly. 
 
 d'asperges. 
 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 
 Soupe au puree des pois verts. 
 Releve ; le chapon rati a l'anglaise. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cdtelettes de Le ris de veau 
 
 mouton panees a pique aux pois 
 
 la marshal. £tuvees. 
 
 Les tendons glaces La fricassee de 
 
 a la printaniere. poulets aux 
 
 artichauts. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Le turbot bouilli. 
 
 Relevg ; le boeuf rAti. 
 
 Dedxieme Service. 
 
 La gelee du vin Les petite pois 
 
 au fraise. . etuvees. 
 
 Choux-fleurs au Boudin aux 
 
 beurre. raisins. 
 
 Les canetons rdti. 
 
 Potage au puree des pois verts. 
 Releve ; le quartier d'agneau roti. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Les tendons de Les petite vol-au- 
 
 veau aux legumes. vents garnis des 
 
 filets de soles. 
 La fricassee des Cfltelettes de 
 
 poulets aux culs mouton, 
 
 d'artichauts. glacis aux con- 
 
 combres. 
 Le turbot bouilli et des merlans frits. 
 RelevS ; le carre' de boeuf. 
 Dedxieme Service. 
 Les dindonneaux rdtis. 
 La gelee du vin. Choux-fleurs au 
 
 beurre. 
 Les pois eHuvees. Les carrier a la 
 
 Chantilly. 
 Le caneton r6ti. 
 
 Potage aux pois verts. 
 Releve" ; les petits poulets aux choux- 
 fleurs. 
 Cdtelettes de mou- La fricassee de 
 ton saute' aux poulets garnie 
 
 concombres. d'artichauts. 
 
 Saute" de ris de Les tendons gar- 
 
 veau aux haricots nis a la jardiniere, 
 verts. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Collared salmon. 
 Releve' ; le selle de mouton. 
 Dedxieme Service. 
 Le pintade roti. 
 La gelee du vin Salade d'ho- 
 
 garnie de fraise. , mards. 
 
 Les pois au natu- Toute des cerises 
 rel. a l'anglaise. 
 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 
 Potage a la jardiniere. 
 
 Releve^ ; le carre" de veau roti. 
 
 Qdatre Ehtrees. 
 
 Cdtelettes de poi- Petite pace's gar- 
 
 trine d'agneau nis d'un salpicon. 
 
 Fricasse'e des pon- Ris de veau 
 
 lets aux cham- pique 1 aux pois 
 
 pignons. e"tuvees. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Spay troute. 
 
 Releve' ; le jambon braise' aux feve de 
 
 marais. 
 
 Dedxieme Service. 
 
 Le pintade pique) r6ti. 
 
 Une creme au Les petits pois 
 
 fraise. etuvees. 
 
 Les artichauts au Les gateaux d'ar- 
 
 beurre. tois. 
 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 
 E 2 
 
420 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 Potage a la hollandaise. 
 Releve" ; le quartier d'agneau r&ti. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cfltelettes de mou- Petits pat£s gar- 
 ton pannes aux nis des filets de 
 haricots verts. turbot. 
 Saute" de ris de Croquettes de 
 veau aux pois volaille aux 
 e'tuve'es. champignons. 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot. 
 Releve" ; le bceuf braise" a la flamande. 
 
 Deuxikme Service. 
 La gele"e du vin Choux-fleurs au 
 
 aux fraises. beurre. 
 
 ' Les pois aux na- La tourte de 
 
 turel. cerises. 
 
 Le levraut r&ti. 
 
 Potage a la hollandaise. 
 Releve" ; une poitrine de bceuf a la jardi- 
 niere. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cfltelettes d'ag- La fricasse'e de 
 
 neau pan des a la volailles aux 
 
 mare'chal. champignons. 
 
 Emincd des ceufs Les ris Je veau 
 
 a" la portugaise. pique" aux petits 
 
 pois e'tuve'es. 
 Poisson. 
 Releve' ; le selle de mouton rflti. 
 ' Deuxikme Service. 
 
 Les petits poulets r6tis. 
 La creme de Les pois au natu- 
 
 fraise. rel. 
 
 Les choux-fleurs Les gateaux a la 
 
 au beurre. d'artois. 
 
 Le levraut roti. 
 
 Potage a la printnniere. 
 Releve - ; les poulets et langue aux choux- 
 fleurs. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Les tendons de C6telettes d'ag- 
 
 veau glacds aux neau saute" aux 
 
 mace'doine. pois. 
 
 Les croquettes a Les ris de veau 
 
 la reine. piques a I'oseille. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Turbot boiled. 
 Releve' ; le selle de mouton r&ti. 
 Deuxikme. Service. 
 Les dindonneaux rdtis. 
 La gelde du via Les pois au na- 
 
 garnie du fraise. turel. 
 
 Les choux-fleurs Vol-au-vent des 
 
 au parmesan. cerises. 
 
 Les canetons r6tis. 
 
 Potage a la hollandaise. 
 
 Releve"; les poulets et langue aux legumes. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Cdtelettes d'ag- Les ris de veau 
 
 neau glacdes aux pique a I'oseille. 
 
 pois. 
 Petits pate's gar- Le caneton d<5- 
 
 nis d'emince* de coupe" a la prin- 
 
 volailles. taniere. 
 
 Poisson. : | 
 
 Relevd ; le selle de mouton roti. 
 Deuxikme Service. 
 Le pintado r&ti. 
 Une cr&me au Les pois au na- 
 
 fraise. turel. 
 
 Unesaladedesau- La tourte des 
 
 mon. ' cerises. 
 
 Un levraut r&ti. 
 
 Potage aux pure'e des concombres. 
 Releve" ; le pate' chaud des poulets a 
 l'anglaise. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Les palais de bceuf Les ris de veau 
 aux truffes. pique a I'oseille. 
 
 Fricasse'e des Petits pat6s gar- 
 
 volailles aux pois. nis e"mince" de 
 
 veau. 
 Poisson. 
 Releve" ; le Belle de mouton roti. 
 Deuxikme Service. 
 Les canetons. 
 Une cr&me au Les pois au na- 
 
 fraise. turel. 
 
 Un chou-fleur a Une tourte des 
 
 la bechamel. groseilles. 
 
 Le levraut roti. 
 
 Potage aux concombres a la hollandaise. 
 
 Relev6 ; les poulets et langue aux 
 
 choux-fleurs. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Les palais de Un fricandeau 
 
 bceuf aux truffes. piquS aux pois 
 
 C&telettes de . Stuvees. 
 
 poitrine glacSes a Les croquettes a la 
 la jardiniere. reine. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot bouilli. 
 RelevG ; le rosbif a l'anglaise. 
 Seconde Service. 
 La poularde. 
 La gel£e du vin, Lespoisaunaturel. 
 garnie des fraises. . 
 
 Une salade des Le boudin aux 
 
 filets d'un turbot. raisins. 
 
 Les pigeons rdtis. 
 
BILLS OF FAKE. 
 
 421 
 
 Potage a la jardiniere. 
 Releve ; les petite poulets a la printaniere. 
 
 Qcatre Entrees. 
 Un fricandeau a Les palais de boeuf 
 
 l'oseille. aux truft'cs. 
 
 Les poulets d6- Cdtelettes 
 
 coupes au pois d'agneau panees 
 
 etuvees a l'ficarlate. aux haricots verts. 
 Poisson. 
 Relev£ ; le jambon brais£ au farce de 
 marais. 
 Seconde Service. 
 Les dindonneaux r&tis. 
 Une crSme des Les choux-fleurs 
 
 fraises. au beurre. 
 
 Les pois 6tuv£es. Une tourte des 
 
 cerises. 
 Les pigeons i&tis. 
 
 Potage a, la julienne. 
 Relev6 ; les petits poulets et langue 
 aux choux-fleurs. 
 Qt/atre Entrees. 
 Cdtelettes Les petits pate's 
 
 d'agneau glacees a garnis d'^mince 
 
 la minute. de volaille. 
 
 Filets des soles, Les tranches de 
 
 sautes a la boeuf a la 
 
 ;, hollandaise. jardiniere. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Relev6 ; le selle de mouton roti. 
 Seconde Service. 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 Les meringues Les pois au 
 
 a la Chantilly. nature! . 
 
 La salade des Une tourte des 
 
 homards. groseilles. 
 
 Le levraut rdti. 
 
 Potage au puree aux pois verts. 
 RelevI ; pat6 chaud des pigeons a 
 l'anglaise. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Filets des soles Cdtelettes 
 
 a la maltre d'agneau glaces 
 
 d'hdtel. aux concombres. 
 
 Saute de veau a Les poulets de- 
 
 la marechal. coupes aux pois 
 
 6tuvees. 
 Poisson. 
 RelevI ; le selle de mouton r&ti. 
 Seconde Service. 
 Les petits poulets r&tis. 
 Gaufres a la Les haricots verts 
 
 Chantilly aux a la poulettc. 
 
 fraises. 
 Les artichauts Une tourte des 
 
 garnis d'une 
 macedoine. 
 
 Le levraut roti. 
 
 Potage a la printaniere. 
 Releve ; longe de veau rdti a la bechamel. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Les poulets d6- Cdtelettes 
 
 coupes aux pois. d'agneau panees a 
 
 la marechal. ; 
 Le lis de veau Petits pat£s a la 
 
 pique a l'oseille. reine. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Relev6 ; jambon braise aux 6pinard3, 
 Seconde Service. 
 Les petits poulets. 
 Les pois au La gel6e de fraise. 
 
 naturel. 
 Une tourte des Une salade 
 
 groseilles. d'homard. 
 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 
 Potage a la jardiniere aux tendons 
 de veau. 
 RelevG ; le culotte de boeuf, sauce tomata. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Un fricandeau Cdtelettes 
 
 piquS aux pois d'agneau panees 
 
 £tuv£es. aux haricots verts. 
 
 Les petits poulets Saute de ris de 
 
 a la toulouse. veau a l'ecarlate. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Releve' ; le selle de mouton roti. 
 Seconde Service. 
 Les canetons. 
 La gelee du vin Les pois aux 
 
 aux fraises. naturel. 
 
 Les petits homards La tourte des 
 
 etuvees au vin. groseilles. 
 
 Les pigeons rdtis. 
 
 Potage a la brunoise. 
 Releve ; les poulets et langue aux 
 legumes. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Un fricandeau Petits pates 
 
 pique aux pois garnis d'6minc6 
 
 etuvees. de soles. 
 
 La tete des ris de L'emince a la 
 
 veau aux haricots polonnaise. 
 
 verts. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Le turbot. 
 
 Relev6 ; le boeuf roti a l'anglaise. 
 
 Seconde Service. 
 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 
 Les artichauts Boudin au 
 
 garnis avec raisin, 
 
 haricots verts. . , 
 
 Le3 gateaux a la Les petits pois. 
 
 d'artois. 
 
 Le levraut rdti. 
 
.422 
 
 BILLS OF FAKE. 
 
 Potage a la julienne. 
 Itelevfi ; pates chauds des poulets a 
 l'angraise. 
 Qbatre Entrees. 
 C6telettes de Canetonsdecoupes 
 
 mouton panees aux pois e'tuvees. 
 
 aux haricots verts. Petits poulets 
 
 Escalope de turban braises aux choux - 
 a la cr£me. fleurs. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Relev6 ; un gigot d'agneau r6ti. 
 
 Seoonde Service. 
 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 
 La gelee du vin Petits homards 
 
 aux fraises. etuv6es. 
 
 Les pois. Une tourte des 
 
 cerises. 
 
 Les pigeons rfltis. 
 
 Potage a la jardiniere. 
 Releve' ; les poulets braises a la printaniere. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Les ris de veau Petits pates garnis 
 
 ■ piques aux pois des filets des 
 
 6tuvee. soles. 
 
 Mouton hachis Cotelettes d'agneau 
 
 a la portugaise. glacees au con- 
 
 corabre. 
 Poisson. 
 Releve' ; le selle de mouton r6tU 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les dindonneaux rotis. 
 Une tourte des Les artichauts 
 
 groseilles. garnis d'une 
 
 macedoine. 
 Une salade de Les gateaux a la 
 
 saumon. d'artoise. 
 
 Le levraut rdti. 
 
 JULY. 
 
 Potage aux puree des pois verts. 
 Releve' ; le quartier d'agneau roti. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Saut6 de volaille Cotelettes de poi- 
 
 a l'ecarlate. trine d'agneau a 
 
 la monte\ 
 Les petits pates Saute de ris de 
 
 garnis des filets des veau aux haricots 
 soles. verts. 
 
 Poisson. 
 1 Releve ; aitch bone de bceuf bouilli. 
 Seoonde Service. 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 Une tourte des Les artichauts 
 
 groseilles. a 1'italienne. 
 
 Salade de T. "• Une crjeme de 
 saumon. fraise. 
 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 
 Potage aux purees des pois verts. 
 Relev6 ; le pat£ chaud des poulets a 
 1'anglaise. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Un fricandeau Croquettes des ris 
 
 pique a l'oseille. de veau a la reine. 
 
 Petits pates garnis C6telettes d'ag- 
 
 d'eminc6 de volailles. neau aux petits 
 pois. 
 Poisson. 
 Releve ; le selle de mouton rdti. 
 Seoonde Service. 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 La gelee du vin au Les haricots verts 
 
 fraise. a la poulette. 
 
 Un roagnonnaise de Une tourte des 
 
 saumon. groseilles. 
 
 Le pintade piqu6 r6ti. 
 
 Potage -a. la brunoise. 
 
 Releve; les petits poulets a la printaniere 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Un fricandeau Un vol-au-vent, 
 
 piqu£ aux pois garni d'emince 
 
 6tuvee. de volaille. 
 
 Les croquettes des Cotelettes de poi- 
 ris de veau. trine a la mare- 
 
 chal. 
 Poisson. 
 Releve ; un jambon braise aux feves de 
 maison. 
 Side table. 
 Loin mutton. 
 
 Seoonde Service. 
 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 
 La gelee du vin au Le tranche de sau- 
 
 fraise. mon en salade. 
 
 Les haricots verts Une tourte des 
 
 a la poulette. groseilles et fram- 
 
 boises. 
 Les pigeons rfitis. 
 
 Potage aux pur6e des pois. 
 Releve; les poulets et langue aux legumes. 
 
 Quatke Entrees. 
 Cotelettes d'agneau ' Les petits pates 
 pane a le pauvre des ris de veau. 
 
 homme. L'escallopes de 
 
 Un fricandeau mouton a la sou- 
 
 pique a l'oseille. biese. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Le saumon au naturel. 
 Seconde Service. 
 Releve ; un sirloin de boeuf roti. 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 La gelee du vin Les haricots" verts. 
 
 au fruit. 
 Les artichauts a Le boudin au rai- 
 
 Titalienne. sin a 1'anglaise. 
 
 Le levraut rdti. 
 
BILLS OP FAKE. 
 
 423 
 
 Fotage aux choux. 
 Releve ; les poulets brais6 aux legumes. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Saute de volaille au Cotelettes d'ag- 
 supreme aux neau glacees aux 
 
 haricots verts. concombres. 
 
 Les tileta de veau Filets des mer- 
 
 piques aux pais lans a la 
 
 etuvees. hollandaise. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Le saumon a la tartare. 
 Releve ; un gigot de mouton roti. 
 Side table. 
 Bacon and beans. 
 
 Seconde Service. 
 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 
 La gelee du vin. Les artichauts au 
 
 beurre. 
 
 Les haricots verts. Un gateaux au gros 
 
 sauce. 
 
 Le levraut rati. 
 
 Fotage a la faubonne. 
 Releve ; le pitte" chaud des poulets a 
 l'angiaise. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cotelettes d'agneau X J etits pates garnis 
 glacees aux con- des filets des 
 
 combres. merlans a la 
 
 hollandaise. 
 Les tranches de Les ris de veau 
 
 saumon ala tartare. piques a l'oseille. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Releve; le jambon aux feves de maison. 
 
 Side table. 
 Loin of mutton. 
 
 Seconde Service. 
 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 
 La gelee du vin au Les artichauts a 
 
 fraise. l'italienne. 
 
 Les haricots verts Une tourte des 
 
 a la poulette. groseilles et fram- 
 
 boises. 
 Les dindonneaux rotis. 
 
 Potage a. la julienne. 
 Releve; le poitrine de bceuf a la jardiniere. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Les filets de veau Les croquettes a 
 
 piques a l'oseille. la reine. 
 
 L'emince de bceuf Cotelettes d'agneau 
 
 a la portugaise. pane a. la sobiese. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 RelevS; le selle de mouton r6ti. 
 
 Seconds Service. 
 
 Les petits poulets r6tis. 
 
 La gelee du vin au Les haricots 
 
 fraise. verts. 
 
 Le magnonnaise de Biscuit a la 
 
 volaille. Chantilly. 
 
 Les pigeons iritis. 
 
 Macaroni soup. 
 Rem. Capon a la financiere. 
 
 Sweetbreads Mutton cutlets ] 
 
 with stewed peas, a l'italienne. 
 
 Rissoles au Vol-au-vent a la 
 
 salpicon. reine. 
 
 Trout, Hollandaise sauce. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Potted grouse. 
 Cherry tart. Artichokes. 
 
 French beans. Cabinet pudding. 
 
 Roastturkey poults. 
 
 Green pea soup. 
 Rem. Two chickens a la reine. 
 Sweetbreads a la Cutlets of lamb a 
 
 financiere. la jardiniere. 
 
 Saute of fillets of Casserolettes of rice 
 mutton and a la reine. 
 
 cucumber. 
 
 Fish. 
 Rem. Leg of mutton. 
 
 Ducklings roast. 
 Pastry. Macaroni. 
 
 Small omelets Noyeau cream. , 
 
 ii l'italienne. 
 
 Pigeons roast. 
 
 Soup a la jardiniere. 
 Rem. Tongue and two chickens 
 braised. 
 Stewed pigeons Grenadins of veal 
 
 Italienne. and sorrel sauce. 
 
 Haricot of Fillets of soles 
 
 mutton. Hollandaise. 
 
 'Fish. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton roast, j 
 Second Course. 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 Pastry. French beans. , 
 
 Peas. Currant tart. 
 
 Roast ducklings. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Ham braised. 
 
 Fillets of ducks Petit pates of 
 
 glace, chicken. 
 
 Casserolettes of Pigeon Italienne. 
 
 rice a la reine. 
 
 Brill and fillets of turbot. 
 Rem. Fillets of veal roast. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Apricot tart. Fillets of soles. 
 
 Macaroni. Chantilly of 
 
 pastry. 
 Roast chickens. 
 Side table. 
 Neck of mutton boiled. 
 
424 
 
 BILLS OF EAEE. 
 
 Soup Julienne. 
 Rem. Stewed beef and cucumber sauce. 
 Petits p^tes a la Curry of rabbit. 
 
 reine. 
 Cutlets of mutton Blanquette of 
 
 sauce piquante. fowls. 
 
 Trout, Hollandaise sauce. 
 Bern. Roast leg of mutton. 
 Second Coukse. 
 Green goose. 
 Pastry. Artichokes. ' 
 
 Peas a la Apple a la 
 
 Francaise. meringue. 
 
 Dressed crab. 
 
 Soup Julienne. 
 Rem. Tongue and two^chickens. 
 Casserolettes of rice Blanquettes of 
 
 a la reine. veal and 
 
 Cutlets of lamb mushrooms."! 
 
 and cucumbers. Pigeons Italienne. 
 
 Salmon a la Tartare. 
 Rem. Leg of mutton roast. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 Rem. Souffle. 
 
 Apricot tart. French beans 
 
 Eggs and sorrel. bechamel. 
 
 Cabinet pudding. 
 Dressed crab. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Trout. 
 Rem. Poularde a la jardiniere. 
 Fricandeau with Croquettes of 
 
 sorrel. Balpicon. 
 
 Curry of rabbit. Saute of sweet- 
 
 breads. 
 Fried whiting. 
 Rem. Roast beef. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast quails. 
 | Plum pudding. Stewed 
 
 Artichokes. cucumbers. 
 
 Italienne cream. 
 Roast ducklings. 
 
 Potage a la hollandaise. 
 Releve" ; les poulets et langue de boeuf. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 ,Un fricandeau Catelettes d'ag- 
 
 piqu6 a l'oseille. neau pane\ 
 
 Les croquettes a L'e'mince' de vo- 
 
 la reine. laille des ceufs. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Rele.ve' ; le boeuf r6ti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les canetons. 
 Le boudin au Les haricots verts, 
 
 raisin. Les ; meringuesa 
 
 Les artichauts. la Chantilly. 
 
 Les pigeons rotis. 
 
 Vermicelli soup. 
 
 Fillets of soles, sauce maitre d'hotel. 
 
 Rem. Roulade of veal, cucumber sauce. 
 
 Saut6 of sweet- ( Croquette a la 
 
 breads and reine. 
 
 mushrooms. 
 
 Petit pate of Mutton cutlets 
 
 chicken. a la sobiese. 
 
 Haddocks broiled. 
 Rem. Roast mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Turkey poults roast. 
 Apples and rice Macaroni, 
 
 a la meringue. 
 
 Stewed Pastry, 
 
 cucumbers. 
 
 Roast leveret. 
 
 Potage aux pur6e des pois. 
 Relev6 ; le gigot de mouton r6ti. 
 
 Quatre Entrbes. 
 Cotelettes Les croquettes a 
 
 d'agneau glacees la reine. 
 
 aux concombres. 
 
 Saut6 de volaille a Hachis de boeuf 
 
 l'erarlate aux aux ceufs.' 
 
 haricots verts. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Releve ; aitch bone de bceuf. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 La poularde pique rStie. 
 
 La gelee du vin Haricots verts a la 
 
 aux fruits. poulette. 
 
 Une salade de Une tourte des gro- 
 
 saumon. seilles et fraises. 
 
 Les pigeons rotis. 
 
 Potage aux puree des pois. 
 Releve ; les poulets et langue a la be- 
 chamel. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cfitelettes Un fricandeau 
 
 d'agneau glaces pique a l'oseille. 
 
 aux concombres. 
 Petits pates garnis Saut6 de volaille 
 
 d'un salpicon. aux haricots verts. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Relev6 ; le gigot de mouton r6ti. ! 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les canetons rotis. 
 La gelee du vin au Les artichauts a 
 
 fruit. l'italienne. 
 
 Haricots verts a la Un gateau aux 
 
 poulette. gros sauce a la 
 
 Chantilly. . 
 Les pigeons r6tis. 
 
BILLS OP FAKE. 
 
 425 
 
 Potage aux concombres. 
 
 Relev£; les poulets et langue a 1'anglaise. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Blanquette de Cfltelettes poitrine 
 
 veau a l'erarlate. d'agneau pan6 
 
 aux haricots verts. 
 Les pigeons aux Petits pat£s de 
 
 choux. volaille a la reine. 
 
 P Poisson. 
 Le turbot. 
 Relevg ; le boeuf r6ti. 
 Deuxiesue Service. 
 Les dindonneaux picjues. 
 La gel£e du vin. Les haricots verts. 
 
 Le magnonnaise de Une tourte des 
 
 saumon. groseilles et fram- 
 
 boises. 
 Les canetons rfltis. 
 
 Potage a la hollandaise. 
 Releve' ; le pate chaud des poulets a 
 1'anglaise. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 C8telettes Les pigeons braises 
 
 d'agneau glacds aux choux. 
 
 aux artichauts. 
 
 Les ris de veau Les croquettes de 
 
 piques a l'oseille. volaille a la reine. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Le saumon a la tartare. 
 
 Releve' ; le selle de mouton rflti." 1 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Les dindonneaux rfltis. 
 
 Une creme des Les haricots verts. 
 
 framboises. 
 Choux-fleurs au Une tourte des 
 
 parmesan. cerises. 
 
 Le levraut rflti. 
 
 Potage a la hollandaise. 
 Releve ; le chapon et langue de boeuf. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 C6telettes Les pigeons braises 
 
 d'agneau aux con- aux choux. 
 
 combres. 
 Les poulets d£- Hachis de mouton 
 
 coupes aux pois aux oeufs. 
 
 etuvees. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Saumon a la tartare. 
 Rele.v£ ; le boeuf rflti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les poules bruyere. 
 Le boudin au Vegetable mar- 
 
 raisin a 1'anglaise. row. 
 
 Les haricots verts. Les gaufres a la 
 
 Chantilly. 
 Les canetons rfltis. 
 
 Potage au vermicelli a la Windsor. 
 Keleve ; les poulets et langue de boeuf. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cdtelettes Les pigeons aux 
 
 d'agneau glaces choux. 
 
 aux artichauts. 
 Lea croquettes a Un fricandeau 
 
 la reine. sauce a l'oseille. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Saumon a la tartare. 
 Brieve"; le gigot de mouton rflti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les dindonneaux piques. 
 Les meringues a Les haricots verts, 
 
 la Chantilly. Une tourte des 
 
 "Vegetable marrow. _ cerises. 
 
 Le levraut i6ti. 
 
 Potage a la jardiniere. 
 Releve ; poitrine de boeuf. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Les grenadins de Poulets braises a la 
 
 veau a la d'orsay. printaniere. 
 
 Le visage de Cfltelettes 
 
 cochon aux feves d'agneau aux pois 
 
 de marais. etuvees. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Le turbot. 1 
 Releve'; le gigot de mouton rflti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 Les artichauts a la Une tourte des 
 
 hollandaise. cerses. 
 
 Une creme des Les verts haricots, 
 framboises. 
 
 Le levraut rflti. 
 
 Potage a la jardiniere. 
 Relev6 ; le chapon et langue de becuf. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cfltelettes Petits pates au 
 
 d'agneau aux pois salpicon. 
 
 etuvees. 
 
 Les grenadins de Poulets braises a la 
 
 veau a l'oseille. printaniere. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Le turbot. 
 
 Releve; le selle de mouton rflti. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 
 La gelee du vin Les haricots verts 
 
 au fruit. au naturel. 
 
 Les artichauts a la Une tourte des 
 poulette. cerises. 
 
 Les pigeons rflti. 
 
426 
 
 BILLS OF FAEE. 
 
 Potage aux legumes. 
 
 Relev6; la poitrine de bceuf a. la flamande. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 
 Un fricandeau Les petits pates 
 
 piqu6 au pois a la reine. 
 
 6tuvees. Cdtelettes d'ag- 
 
 Les poulets d6- neau, glacis aux 
 
 coupes aux cham- concombres. 
 
 pignons. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Releve" ; le gigot de mouton rdti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Lea levrauts. 
 Unetourtedesgro- Vegetable marrow 
 seilles et fiam- au beurre. 
 
 boises. Biscuit a la 
 
 Les artichauts a Chantilly. 
 
 l'italienue. 
 
 Les dindonneaux rdtis. 
 
 Potage aux concombres. 
 Releve' ; le quartier d'agneau rdti. 
 
 QlTATEE ENTREES. 
 
 Cdtelettes de Le poulet a la 
 
 mouton pane' a la printaniere. 
 
 marshal. Les croquettes de 
 
 Visage de cochon salpicon. 
 
 aux pois 6tuv6es. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Releve' ; un aitch bone de bceuf. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 La poularde pique. 
 
 La gel6e du vin. Les haricots 
 
 verts. 
 La moelle vege- Une tourte des 
 
 table. cerises. 
 
 Le levraut rdti. 
 
 Potage aux legumes. 
 Releve' ; les poulets et langue aux choux- 
 fleurs. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Cdtelettes d'ag- Saute" de ris de 
 
 neau glaces aux veau haricots 
 
 concombres. verts. 
 
 Les tendons garnis Les filets de 
 
 a la macedoine. bceuf pique, sauce 
 
 tomate. 
 Poisson. 
 Releve" ; le selle de mouton rdti. 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 La gele"e du vin La moelle vege- 
 
 aux fruits. table. 
 
 Les haricots verts. Une tourte des 
 
 groseilles. 
 Le levraut rdti. 
 
 Potage a la jardiniere. 
 Releve"; longe de veau a la bechamel. 
 
 Quatre Entrees. ' 
 Cdtelettes d'ag- k Tendons glaces \ 
 
 neau pane" a la aux legumes. 
 
 marechal. 
 Le ris de veau Les croquettes a 
 
 piqu6s aux pois. la reine. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Releve' ; le jambon brais6 aux haricots 
 
 verts. 
 
 D,euxieme Service. 
 
 Les dindonneaux. 
 
 Magnonnaise de Une tourte des 
 
 saumon. -cerises. 
 
 La gele"e du vin. Les haricots verts. 
 
 Grouse rdti. 
 
 Potage aux concombres. 
 Releve" ; le quartier d'agneau rdti. 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 C6telettes de mou- Un fricandeau 
 
 ton aux concom- sauce d'oseille. 
 
 bres. 
 Petits patgs de ris Fjmince" de volaille 
 de veau. des ceufs. 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Releve" j le bceuf a la flamande. 
 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 
 Un levraut. 
 
 La gele"e du vin.jj Les haricots verts. 
 
 Pois au naturel. Les meringues a 
 
 l'italienne. 
 
 Les pigeons rdtis. 
 
 Pof age au macaroni. 
 Releve" les poulets et langue de boeuf; 
 Quatre Entrees. 
 Saute" de filet de Filets des soles 
 
 bceuf a l'italienne. a la hollandaise. 
 
 Haricot de mou- Les'ris de veau 
 
 ton. aux pois etuv&s. 
 
 Poisson. 
 Kfileve" ; un selle de mouton rdti, 
 Deuxieme Service. 
 Un levraut rdti. 
 Pois 6tuve"es. Une tourte des 
 
 apricots. 
 Pate: garni. Omelette aux 
 
 fines herbes. 
 Les canetons rdtis. 
 
BILLS OF FAKE. 
 
 427 
 
 Potage aux pois verts. 
 
 Releve' ; une poularde a la reine. 
 
 Quaire Entrees. 
 
 Cdtelettes d'ag- Vol-au-vent a la 
 
 neau a. l'italienne. financiere. 
 
 Rissoles au salpi- Salmi de levjaut. 
 
 con. 
 
 Poisaon. 
 
 Un turbot. 
 
 Releve" ; un gigot de mouton. 
 
 Deuxi£me Service. 
 
 Les caillea r6ties. 
 
 Une tourte des Les artichauts. 
 
 apricots. Boudin de raisin 
 
 Pois - a l'anglaise. 
 
 Les poulets rStis. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Stewed beef a 1'Espagnole. 
 Hashed venison. Petit pates 
 
 Fricandeau with of oysters. 
 
 tomatas. Cutlets Maintenon 
 
 Broiled salmon and fillets of soles. 
 
 Rem. Leg of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast grouse. 
 
 Damson tart. Macaroni. 
 
 Scalloped oysters. Almond pastry. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Poularde a la financiere. 
 Salmi of grouse. Hashed venison. 
 Petit pates of Grenadins of veal 
 
 oysters. with tomatas. 
 
 Broiled salmon and fillets of soles. 
 Rem. Roast sirloin of beef. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Plum pudding, Stewed spinach 
 brandy sauce. with eggs. 
 
 Vegetable marrow Pastry. 
 
 Italienne. 
 
 Roast quails. 
 
 Soup Palestine. 
 Rem. Poularde and oyster sauce. 
 Salmi of grouse. Sweetbreads 
 
 larded with sorrel. 
 Cutlets of mutton Fillets of fowl 
 a la sobiese. with tomatas. 
 
 Turbot. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 » Second "Course. 
 
 Roast partridges. 
 Cabinet pudding. French beans 
 bechamel. 
 Omelets Italienne. Apple tart. 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Tongue and two chickens a la reine. 
 Hashed venison. Cutlets of mutton, 
 piquante. 
 Grenadins of veal Fillets of fowl 
 
 with sorrel. with tomatoes. 
 
 Salmon and smelts. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton roast. 
 Seoond Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Apples and rice 
 
 a la meringue. Eggs and spinach. 
 
 French beans Pastry, 
 
 bechamel. 
 
 Roast quails. 
 
 Soup a la Palestine. 
 Rem. Roulade of veal au macfidoine. 
 Mutton cutlets Vol-au-vent a la 
 
 and tomata. financiere. 
 
 Salmi of leveret. Two chickens a la 
 
 reine. 
 Turbot. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Three snipes and three quails roast. 
 Plum tart. Stewed 
 
 Stewed spinach. cucumber. 
 
 Cabinet pudding. 
 Roast grouse. 
 
 Soup julienne. 
 Rem. Saute of fillets of soles maitre 
 
 d'hotel. 
 Rem. Calf's head a l'italienne. 
 Two chickens a la Saute of beef with 
 
 financiere. cucumbers. 
 
 Cutlets Maintenon. Grenadins of veal 
 and sorrel. 
 Fish. 
 Rem. Leg of mutton, haricot beans. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 Rem. Cabinet pudding. 
 
 Currant tart. Artichokes. 
 
 Stewed peas. Noyeau cream. 
 
 Dressed crabs. 
 
 Soup a la Palestine. 
 Rem. Stewed beef and cucumber 
 sauce. 
 Haricot of Petit pates of 
 
 mutton. oysters. 
 
 Two chickens a la Tendons of veal 
 
 macedoine. with sorrel. 
 
 Salmon and smelts. 
 Rem. Leg of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Apple tart. Stewed spinach. 
 
 French beans. Ginger souffle. 
 
 Roast quails and snipes. 
 
428 
 
 BILLS OP FARE. 
 
 Soup a la Palestine. 
 Rem. Tongue and two chickens 
 k la reine. 
 Petit pate's of Cutlets of mutton 
 
 oysters. haricot. 
 
 Grenadins of veal Fillets of poularde 
 with sorrel. au macedoine. 
 
 Salmon and soles. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 Second Coubse. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Apples and rice Stewed spinach. 
 A la meringue. Plum tart. 
 
 Macaroni. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Aitch bone of beef. 
 Fillets of fowl Vol-au-vent a la 
 
 larded with financiere. 
 
 tomata. 
 Cutlets of mutton Grenadins of veal 
 i la sobiese. with sorrel. 
 
 Salmon a la Tartare. 
 Rem. Haunch of venison. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Cabinet pudding. Scalloped 
 
 Vegetable marrow, oysters. 
 
 bechamel. Damson tart. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup julienne. 
 Rem. Stewed soles. 
 
 Braised beef, cucumber sauce. 
 Fricassee of Mutton cutlets 
 
 chicken. and tomata. 
 
 Sweetbreads a la Vol-au-vent ii la 
 
 jardiniere. financiere. 
 
 Salmon a la tartare. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 Chantilly a la Macaroni, 
 
 crime. 
 
 Prawns. Pastry. 
 
 Roast leveret. 
 
 Soup puree of cucumber. 
 Rem. Two chickens a la financiere. 
 Casserolettes of Cutlets of mutton 
 
 rice a la reine. a la sobiese. 
 
 Saute of fillets of Petit pate" of 
 
 beef italienne. oysters. 
 
 Turbot and smelts. 
 Rem. Aitch bone of beef. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 Rice cake and French beans. 
 
 apples. 
 Eggs and sorrel. Pastry. 
 
 Leveret. ^_ 
 Ham on side table. 
 
 Soup puree of cucumber. 
 Rem. Tongue and two chickens. 
 Cutlets of mutton, Cutlets of veal a 
 tomato sauce. la jardiniere. 
 
 Curry of rabbit. Petit pates of 
 
 oysters. 
 Turbot and lobster sauce. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton roast. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 Apple tart. Vegetable marrow, 
 
 bechamel. 
 Eggs with sorrel. Cabinet pudding. 
 
 Potted game. 
 
 (Soup creci. 
 Soles. 
 Rem. Poularde and oyster sauce. 
 Mutton cutlets, Curry of rabbit 
 
 tomato sauce*. and rice. 
 
 Petit pate's of Grenadins of veal 
 
 chicken. with sorrel. 
 
 Haddocks. 
 Rem. Leg of mutton roast. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast leveret. 
 Rice cake and French beans, 
 
 apples. be'chamel.' 
 
 Artichokes. Pastry. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup pur§e of cucumber. 
 Rem. Two chickens with oyster 
 sauce. 
 Grenadins with Petit pat£s a la 
 
 sorrel. reine. 
 
 Mutton cutlets Fricandeau aux 
 
 Italienne. tomatas. 
 
 Fillets of soles Italienne. 
 Rem. Roast leg of mutton. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast quails. 
 Chartreuse Russe. Scalloped 
 
 oysters. 
 French beans, Pastry, 
 
 bechamel. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Two chickens a. la financiere. 
 Sweetbreads with Casserolettes of 
 
 tomata. oysters curry. 
 
 Croquette au Mutton cutlets 
 
 salpicon. Italienne. 
 
 Turbot and lobster sauce. 
 Rem. Roast beef. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast leveret. 
 
 Plum pudding. Stewed cucumber. 
 
 French beans, Pastry. , 
 
 bechamel. 
 
 Roast capon. 
 
BILLS OP FARE. 
 
 429 
 
 Soup puree of cucumbers. 
 Salmon a la tartare. 
 Rem. Poulaide a la financiere garni 
 
 petits pates. 
 Two sweetbreads a Civet of leveret. 
 
 la jardiniere. 
 Casserolettes of rice Fricassee of 
 
 with curry of chicken, 
 
 oysters. 
 
 Fried soles. 
 Rem. Sirloin of beef. 
 
 Second Course. •• •"' 
 Roast grouse. 
 Plum pudding. Artichokes. 
 
 Small omelets Apple tart with 
 
 italienne. custards. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup puree of cucumbers. 
 Rem. Salmon a. la tartare. 
 
 Poularde and oyster sauce. 
 Vol-au-vent of Grenadins of veal 
 
 chicken a la finan- _. with sorrel. 
 
 ciere. 
 t Saute of beef and Curry of calf's 
 
 cucumbers. head. 
 
 Turbot and lobster sauce. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. "~ 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast quails. 
 Noyeau cream. Stewed cucumbers. 
 
 a. la Chantilly. 
 Vegetable mairow, Apple tart, 
 
 bechamel. 
 
 Roast chicken. 
 
 Soup a la Palestine. 
 Rem. Turbot and smelts. 
 Rem. Poularde and oyster sauce. 
 Vol-au-vent a la Cutlets of lamb 
 
 financiere. Italienne. 
 
 Hashed venison. Casseroles of rice 
 
 with curry of 
 rabbit. 
 Salmon a la Tartare. 
 Rem. Haunch of venison. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Chantilly a la Stewed 
 
 cr&ne. cucumbers. 
 
 Artichokes a la Cherry tart, 
 
 reine. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Side table. 
 Neck of venison and ham. 
 
 Soup puree of cucumber. 
 Rem. With roulade of veal 
 haricot. 
 Fricassee of Petit pates of ; 
 
 chicken oysters. 
 
 financiere. 
 Tendons of veal Cutlets of mutton 
 with sorrel. Maintenon. 
 
 Fish, 
 Rem. With saddle ot mutton. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Apple tart. Artichokes. 
 
 Vegetablemarrow, Noyeau cream, 
 
 bechamel. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Trout and smelts. 
 
 Rem. With stewed beef, haricot 
 
 sauce. 
 Two sweetbreads Petit pates of 
 
 larded with sorrel. oysters. 
 
 Fricassee of Cutlets of mutton 
 
 chicken a la a la sobiese. 
 
 financiere. 
 
 Broiled haddocks. 
 
 Rem. Roast leg of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Apple tart. Artichokes. 
 
 Vegetable marrow Noyeau cream. 
 
 a la creme. 
 
 Roast ducklings. 
 
 Soup puree of cucumber. 
 Rem. Aitch bone of beef. 
 Two sweetbreads Chicken a la 
 
 with tomatas. financiere. 
 
 Casseroles with Cutlets 
 
 currie of oysters. Maintenon. 
 
 Turbot. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 Rem. Souffle. 
 
 Macaroni. Apple and rice 
 
 a la meringue. 
 
 Pastry. Stewed 
 
 cucumbers. 
 
 Dressed crab. 
 
430 
 
 BILLS OF PARE 
 
 Soup purge of cucumber. 
 Mullet in paper- 
 Bern. Tongue and chickens 
 
 bechamel. 
 Mutton cutlets a Casseroles with 
 
 la sobiese. curry of rabbit. 
 
 Croquettes of Tendons of lamb 
 
 sweetbreads. a la jardiniere. 
 
 Haddocks baked. 
 Rem. Roast leg of mutton. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Cabinet pudding. Stewed spinach. 
 
 Artichokes. Apple tart. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Mullet. 
 
 Rem. Stewed beef Espagnole. 
 Cutlets of lamb Fricandeau au 
 
 Italienne. macedoine. 
 
 Two chickens a la Petit pates a la 
 
 financiere. reine. 
 
 Salmon a'la Tartare. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Cherry tart. Macaroni 
 
 gratin. 
 Vegetable marrow Rice cake and 
 
 bechamel. apple a la meringue. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Poularde with cucumber sauce. 
 
 Two sweetbreads 
 
 with sorrel. 
 
 Fricassee of 
 
 , chicken a la 
 
 financiere. 
 
 Mutton cutlets 
 
 with tomatoes. 
 
 Blanquette of veal 
 
 and fricandeau. 
 
 Rem. 
 
 Turbot and lobster sauce. 
 Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast grouse. 
 
 Apple tart. Macaroni. 
 
 Vegetablemarrow, Ginger souffle^ 
 
 bechamel. 
 
 Roast turkey poult. 
 
 Soup Palestine. 
 Rem. Salmon a la Tartare. 
 Rem. Fillet of veal bechamel. 
 Chickens a la Petit pates a la 
 
 financiere. reine. 
 
 Fricandeau au Casseroles of rice. 
 
 macedoine.; 
 
 Mullet in paper. 
 Rem. Leg of mutton roast. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast leveret. 
 Apple tart. Artichokes. 
 
 French beans, Cabinet pudding, 
 bechamel. 
 Side table. Roast grouse. 
 
 Tongue and vegetables. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Fried soles. 
 
 Rem. Aitch bone of beef. 
 Petit pates of Grenadins of veal 
 
 chicken. with sorrel. 
 
 Two chickens a la Saute of beef aux 
 financiere. fines herbes. 
 
 Trout.' 
 Rem. Roa6t leg of mutton. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast Grouse. 
 Rice cake and Vegetable marrow 
 
 apple. u Italienne. 
 
 French beans, * Pastry, 
 
 bechamel. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup julienne. 
 Rem. Fillets of soles maitre d'h6tel. 
 Rem. Stewed beef Espagnole. 
 Two chickens Cutlets of mutton 
 
 . ragout meler. sobiese. 
 
 Petit pat6 of Tendons of veal 
 
 oysters. with sorrel. 
 
 Haddocks broiled. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Rem. ■ Fondue. 
 
 Apple tart. "Vegetable marrow, 
 
 bechamel. 
 Stewed peas. Cabinet pudding. 
 
 Roast turkey poult. 
 
BILLS OF PAKE. 
 
 431 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem; Poularde a la financiere. 
 
 Sweetbreads Petit pate" a la 
 
 larded with sorrel. reine. 
 
 Salmi of leveret. Blanquette of veal 
 with fricandeau. 
 Soles fried and boiled. 
 Rem. Roast beef. 
 
 Second Coubse. 
 
 Roast quails. 
 
 Plum pudding, Vegetable marrow 
 
 brandy sauce. Italienne. 
 
 Artichokes. Plum tart. 
 
 Roast grouse. 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 Turtle. 
 Rem. Tongue and chickeris, bechamel. 
 Petit pates Grenadins 
 
 a la reine. with sorrel. 
 
 Sweetbreads with Fricassee a la 
 
 tomatas. financiere. 
 
 Fish. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast partridges. 
 Cabinet pudding Stewed spinach. 
 
 Vegetable marrow, Apple tarts. 
 
 bechamel. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Turtle. 
 Rem. Roast leg of mutton. 
 Salmi of Two chickens a la 
 
 grouse. financiere. 
 
 Petit pates Grenadin of veal, 
 
 of oysters. with tomatas. 
 
 Turbot. 
 Rem. Matelote of turtle fins. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast partridges. 
 Apple tarts. Small omelets Italienne. 
 Artichokes. Cabinet pudding. 
 
 Roast capon. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Boiled neck of mutton. 
 Salmi of grouse. Fricassee of chicken 
 
 and truffles. 
 Sweetbreads Croquettes au 
 
 with sorrel. salpicon. 
 
 Salmon a la tartare. 
 Rem. Roast beef. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast black cock. 
 Plum pudding, Stewed spinach. 
 
 Brandy sauce. 
 
 Scalloped oysters. Ginger souffle. 
 
 Roast capon. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Poularde a la financiere. 
 Mutton cutlets Petit pates 
 
 a la sobiese. of oysters. 
 
 Croquettes of Fricandeaux 
 
 sweetbreads. of turtle. 
 
 Soles and smelts. 
 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast partridges. 
 
 Chantilly a la Vegetable marrow, 
 
 creme. bechamel. 
 
 Stewed spinach. Apple tart. 
 
 Roast turkey poults. 
 
 Soup Palestine. 
 Rem. Tongue and two chickens, 
 
 bechamel. 
 Vol-au-vent a la Hashed venison. 
 
 financiere. 
 Cutlets of mutton Sweetbreads larded 
 with tomatas. with sorrel. 
 
 Salmon peel and fillets of soles. 
 Rem. Leg of mutton roasted. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast partridges. 
 Apple tarts. Scalloped oysters. 
 
 Stewed spinach, 
 with eggs. Italian cream. 
 
 Turkey poults. 
 
 Soup creci. 
 Rem. Poularde a la financiere. 
 Hashed venison. Fricandeaux 
 
 with sorrel. 
 Cutlets of mutton Croquette au 
 
 with tomatoes. salpicon. 
 
 Baked haddocks and smelts. 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast landrails. 
 Apples and rice Stewed spinach 
 
 a la meringue. with eggs. 
 
 Macaroni. Pastry. 
 
 Roast grouse. 
 
 Soup vermicelli, white. 
 Rem. Haunch of venison. 
 Vol-au-vent of turbot Fricassee of 
 
 maitre d'h6tel. chicken. 
 
 Cutlets of mutton Croquettes of 
 
 with tomatas. Sweetbreads. 
 
 Fish. 
 Rem. Aitch bone of beef. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast partridges. 
 Ginger souffle. Stewed spinach 
 
 Vegetable marrow, with eggs, 
 
 bechamel. Pastry. 
 
 Two chickens roast. 
 
4322 
 
 BILLF OF FARE. 
 
 Soup vermicelli clear. 
 Rem. Fried smelts. 
 
 Rem. Stewed beef Espagnole. 
 Fricandeaux with Mutton cutlets, 
 
 tomatas. sauce piquante. 
 
 Vol-au-vent a la Blanquette of fowl 
 
 financiere. -with truffles. 
 
 Stewed soles. 
 Rem. Leg of mutton and haricot beans. 
 Second Course. 
 Roast partridges. 
 Apple tart. Scalloped oysters. 
 
 Stewed cucumbers. Casserolettes of rice 
 a la creme. __ 
 Roast grouse. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 Soups. 
 Fish. 
 Haricot mutton. 
 Sweetbread and Vegetables. 
 
 spinach. 
 
 Pates, or vol-au-vent from the veal 
 
 of yesterday. 
 
 Second CounsE. 
 
 Roast partridges. 
 
 Pudding. 
 
 Second Dai. 
 Salmi from the left partridges. 
 Rissoles of the Vegetables, 
 
 sweetbread left. 
 
 Roast neck of mutton. 
 Roast hare. 
 Pastry. Jelly. 
 
 Salad from the fish left yesterday. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 Turtle. 
 Rem. Stewed beef with cucumbers. 
 Petit pates of Cutlets of mutton 
 
 oysters. with tomatas. 
 
 Matelote of turtle Casserolettes of rice 
 fins. ' a la reine. 
 
 Fish. 
 
 Rem. Saddle of mutton. 
 
 Second Course., 
 Roast partridges. 
 Italienne cream. Stewed spinach. 
 
 Prawns. Apple tart. 
 
 E Roast turkey. 
 
 Turtle. 
 Rem. Stewed beef with cucumber. 
 Vol-au-vent & la Saute" of sweetbreads 
 
 financiere. with tomato. 
 
 Salmi of grouse. Casserolettes of rice 
 a la reine. 
 Fish. 
 Rem. Leg of mutton roasted. 
 
 Second Course. 
 
 Roast grouse. 
 Cream Italienne. Scalloped oysters. 
 Stewed spinach. Apple fritters. 
 
 Roast capon. 
 
 Soup.' 
 Fish. 
 Boiled turkey. 
 Celery sauce. 
 Pork or bacon on Sweetbread, 
 
 vegetables. mushrooms. 
 
 Roast loin of mutton. 
 Roast grouse. 
 Artichokes with Pudding, 
 
 sauce. 
 
 ' Macaroni. 
 
 Second Day. 
 Emince' and boiled leeks. 
 Rissole in one of Vegetables, 
 
 sweetbread. 
 
 Roast shoulder of mutton. 
 Onion sauce. 
 
 Second Course. 
 Roast game. 
 Pastry. Rhenish cream from 
 
 the jelly. 
 Stewed celery. 
 
 
 
 A. SMALL BREAKFAST. 
 
 
 
 Magnonnaise 
 
 
 White soup. 
 
 
 Lamb cutlets 
 
 lobster. 
 
 
 Two boiled fowls 
 
 
 and peas. 
 
 Noyeau jelly. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 a la financiere. 
 
 Fruit 
 
 Gateau a la 
 
 Ham. 
 
 
 Cakes. 
 
 
 Neapolitan. 
 
 Fonchenette of 
 
 
 A royal truffle. T ' i 
 
 
 Raised pie. 
 
 apricots. 
 
 
 Cakes. 
 
 
 Venilla cream. 
 
 Fillets of fowls 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Clear consomme" Boup. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Plovers' 
 
 larded with 
 
 
 Two roast fowls. 
 
 
 eggs in 
 
 truffle sauce. 
 
 
 
 
 aspic jelly. 
 
BTLLS OP FAKE. 
 
 433 
 
 A LARGE DINNER FOR THIRTY. 
 
 Four soups. 
 A la reine, white. 
 Lamb's tail, white. 
 Julienne, clear brown. 
 "Vermicelli, brown. 
 
 Four removes. 
 Turkey rdti ragout a la truffes. 
 Westphalia ham and spinach. 
 Rump of beef bouilli, haricot. 
 Two fowls, larded and braised a la royale. 
 
 Side table. 
 Roast beef. 
 Saddle mutton. 
 Fetits pates of oysters. 
 Petit pate a la reine. 
 
 Four fishes. 
 Turbot. 
 Crimped cod. 
 Salmon a les genevaise. 
 Fresh water fish. 
 
 Eight entrees. 
 Lamb cutlets, p&te aux pois. 
 
 Mutton cutlets braised, puree turnips. 
 Tendons veal, with endives. 
 Mouton of sweetbreads, mushrooms. 
 Fillets fowls, supreme. 
 Blanquette chickens and truffles. 
 Salmi of grouse. 
 Gratin of larks, Italian. 
 
 Secohd Course. 
 
 Two pheasants rdtis, one larded. 
 Souffle" fleur d'orange. 
 
 Fruit jelly. 
 Mushrooms broiled. 
 
 Built pastry. 
 
 Four roast woodcocks, 
 Basket of pastry. 
 
 Asparagus. 
 Cream of Vanilla. 
 
 Three partridges r6tis, 
 Ramequins of pannesan 
 
 Ginger cream. 
 Spinach a la 
 creme. 
 Vol-au-vent of 
 
 apricot. 
 
 Four roast teals. 
 
 Neapolitan cake. 
 
 French beans. 
 
 Orange jelly. 
 
 A BALL SUPPER FOR TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY PERSONS. 
 
 14 dishes of chickens, boiled and roasted. 
 
 10 dishes of galantine of veal or aspic. 
 
 8 dishes of lobster salads with aspic. 
 
 6 whole tongues, white and brown. 
 
 6 whole hams, ornamented. 
 
 8 dishes of prawns in aspic jelly. 
 
 8 dishes of plovers' eggs in and on aspic. 
 
 8 dishes of cakes. 
 
 8 clear jellies. 
 
 8 orange do. 
 
 8 creams various in colour and flavour. 
 
 7 baskets with pastry. 
 
 7 tarts with sugar tops. 
 
 5 purees montees, various. 
 
 Roast fowls 
 cut. 
 
 Jelly. 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Pastry. 
 Italian salad. 
 
 Cream. 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Basket. 
 
 Tongue. 
 Neapolitan. 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Pastry. 
 Italian salad. 
 
 Cream. 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Jelly. 
 
 Roast fowls, 
 
 cut. 
 
 SUPPER FOR FROM FIFTY TO SIXTY. 
 
 Raised pie. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Savoy cake. 
 
 I Mixed cakes. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Preserves. 
 
 Cakes. 
 
 Epergne. 
 
 Cakes. 
 
 Preserves. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Mixed cakes. 
 
 Savoy cake. 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Raised pie. 
 F F 
 
 Roast fowls 
 
 cut. 
 
 Jelly. 
 
 Sandwiches.. 
 
 Pastry. 
 Italian salad- 
 Cream. 
 Sandwiches. 
 Gateau a la 
 Neapolitan. 
 Ham. 
 Basket. 
 Sandwiches. 
 Pastry. 
 Italian salad. 
 
 Cream. 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 Jelly. 
 
 Roast fowls, 
 
 cut. 
 
434 THE EOYAL KITCHEN AT WINDSOR CASTLE. 
 
 THE EOYAL KITCHEN AT WINDSOR CASTLE. 
 
 The kitchen is a noble apartment of nearly fifty feet in height- 
 situated on the northern side of the Castle. And the Christmas 
 good cheer requires ample space. As many as sixty turkeys are 
 roasted for the Royal table at this season. The household and the 
 domestics help, of course, to consume them. Large fires at both ends 
 of the kitehen look enormous, and, with the viands slowly revolving on 
 the spits, present a wonderful picture. On either side there are also 
 charcoal fires for the more delicate cookery — for the chef d'wvres of 
 French invention — aided by certain mysterious utensils used in the 
 process that sadly bewilder the uniniated, whose astonishment is 
 moreover excited by the great size and number of the culinary ves- 
 sels displayed ostentatiously around the huge fire-places. 
 
 Among the standing dishes, we are informed, on her Majesty's 
 table, there is a baron of beef, an immeasurable pie, and a boar's 
 head, two or three brawns, and a large woodcock pie, which, by old 
 custom, is sent over by the Viceroy of Ireland. 
 
 As might have have been expected, the staff of persons employed 
 in the kitchen is numerous. It consists . of a chef de cuisine (an 
 important post, now filled by M. Moret), two master cooks, two yeo- 
 men of (he mouth, two yeomen of the kitchen-, two -roasting cooks, 
 two larderers, five scowers, one steam-man, three kitchen-maids, 
 two men in the green office, as it is called, their duty being to clean 
 the vegetables ; that of the steam-man is to boil them ; and there are 
 four apprentices, to learn the art and mystery of cooking. 
 
 The scene in the kitchen is one of great order ; no bustle, no con- 
 fusion; alL the details, even of the largest dinner, being so subdivided 
 and arranged that each person has his own part to attend to, and in 
 Consequence, there is no disorder. The quiet is remarkable. The 
 chief scene of activity is when the footmen are in attendance to con- 
 vey the dishes from the hot table in the centre of the kitchen, on 
 which, they, are disposed, to the apartments in which they are to be 
 served. TVe say apartments, as it often happens that her Majesty 
 dines in private; and, besides, there are so many for whom provision 
 i# made, that the supply seems at all time enormous. 
 
DRAWN AND ENGRAVED, BY PERMISSION, BY J. h. WILLIAMS, ESQ. 
 
A FRENCH PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 THE DREADFUL TURN-OUT 
 
 op 
 
 A FRENCH PLUM-PUDDING!!! 
 
 OK THE MISFORTUNES OF MONSIEUK AND MADAME DE LA BETISE, WHOSE OltANO 
 OBJECT IN LIFE WAS TO LIVE III THE ENOLISH STYLE. 
 
 TRUTHFULLY NARRATED BV 
 
 HORACE MAYHEW AND ALFRED OBOWQUILL. 
 
 MossiEtnt de la Betisb did everything 
 as the English did. He drank beer for 
 breakfast. He ate bif teles aux pommes de 
 terre every day of his life, except when he 
 had rosiif. He talked lonffly. He walked 
 loudly. He swore very loudly. He was, 
 in. short, the terror sf every waiter, in every 
 neighbouing cafe. But, above all, Mon- 
 sieur de la Betise prided himself on dress- 
 ing in tire English fashion. To carry out 
 the resemblance as closely as possible, it 
 was his habit to dress in an entire suit of 
 Scotch plaid,, of the very widest five-barred 
 pattern. This costume was made still more 
 correct by the faithful addition of top- 
 boots, spurs, a jockey's cap, and a huge 
 pair of boxing gloves, which Monsieur de 
 la Betise always wore on grand state 
 occasions. To make his appearance in 
 the highest degree English, Monsieur de 
 la Betise was always accompanied in his 
 rambles and visits .by a real English 
 houledogue, whom he had trained in his 
 leisure moments, when he was not reading 
 " Ossian" or learning the " Box," to carry 
 his English umbrella ; for, like all Eng- 
 
 lishmen. Monsieur de la Betise wouM not go to an evening party even without his 
 umbrella. 
 
 F E 2 
 
436 
 
 THE DREADFUL, TURN-OUT 
 
 AN' ENGLISH 
 GKOOM. 
 
 Madame de la Betise had the same noble pride as her husband. To perfect 
 the English illusion, she always walked out in a spencer or a riding-habit, and a 
 riding-whip, accompanied with a parasol, , For Madame de la Betise exhibited 
 the same weakness (peculiar to all English ladies) for a parasol as her husband 
 did for an umbrella. If she went to bathe, she always took her parasol into the 
 water with her. Her dress never had less than ten flounces. She was also followed 
 in all her visits and rambles by a beautiful little King Charles's dog. At home 
 she was solaced, during Monsieur de la B&tise's frequent visits to the cafe, or his 
 club, as he called it, by the attentions of a numerous little feline family, consisting 
 of half a dozen cats, and as many kittens, which she had learned, from authentic 
 sources, was another interesting custom of all English ladieB. 
 
 Their domestic hearth (which con- 
 sisted of an English warming-pan filled 
 with charcoal) was never in want of 
 
 f?\ 'S* Sfiie &j$k excitement, for the bouhdogue and th« 
 
 , V /£ Wi wQf King CharleB and the cats were always 
 
 U w '* :r '■ tf '•"* fighting. 
 
 Their groom was also dressed after 
 the style of all, English grooms. 
 
 Monsieur and Madame de la Betise 
 determined in their love for English 
 manners and customs, to have a Christ- 
 mas dinner, dressed entirely in the 
 English style. Accordingly, they pur- 
 chased a fit" goose; which'was considerably*' larger than the largest French chicken, 
 
OF A FRENCH PLUM-PUDDING. 
 
 437 
 
 and a tremendous piece of rosbif, 
 weighing not less than 21bs. 6'oz., 
 and all the materials for making 
 an English Plum-pudding, These 
 materials Madame de la Betise 
 copied out of a French cookery- 
 book, and were as follows: 
 
 Oranges, lemons, brandy, pepper, 
 salt, suet, plums, butter, bread, 
 eggs, almonds, currants, cheese, 
 Cream, and half-a-dozen spoon- 
 fuls of table-beer. They were 
 •" to be beaten up all together, in 
 their respective propertions, and 
 boiled for twelve hours in plenty 
 of water. 
 
 Madame de la BStise (who 
 had lived in an English noble- 
 man's family in Whetstone 
 Park) kindly consented to 
 superintend the cooking of the 
 pudding herself. 
 
 Monsieur de la Betise entered 
 into a generous rivalry with his 
 wife; and, to shed an atmosphere 
 of local truth about the place, 
 busied himself in decorating tha 
 room with cabbage leaves and other emblems of the festive season. 
 
 At last it was time to dress for dinner. Monsieur de la Betise put on a 
 historical costume, borrowed from the portraits of George IV. The pantaloons 
 were made of the best white kid, in order that he might look like the "first 
 gentleman of Europe " as much as possible; whilst Madame attired herself in the 
 becoming costume of Queen Elizabeth. And all their guests, out of compliment 
 to their hosts, came likewise in English historical characters. The effect of this 
 grand tableau vivant can be much better conceived than described. 
 
IOB DREADFUL T0SNHXTT, 
 
 The dinner passed off bat slowly; though there 
 was no scarcity of every kind of English beer. 
 There was the ale from Edinburgh, and the stout 
 from Dublin, and the far-famed porter from London, 
 with other varieties, such em the generous half-and- 
 half, and the friendly bitter of the celebrated Bass, 
 and others too numerous to mention. These were 
 served round, as in England, in. wine-glasses ; but 
 they did not seem to exhilarate the company much. 
 The goose and rosbif were cut up into little knobs, 
 and handed round, according to the rule practised 
 in all English circles, to each guest, but were re- 
 moved without a single word of commendation. At 
 last the moment for the grand event of the evening 
 had arrived ! Desire lodged upon every lip ; 
 curiosity lurked in the corner of every eye. The 
 entire assembly was sitting upon the tiptoe of ex- 
 pectation (if so familiar an expression may be 
 allowed upon so solemn an occasion), when the door 
 was thrown open — not a breath was heard— and in 
 marched the servants, proudly bearing the glory of 
 England: the celebrated dish, whose generous 
 character it is, unlike most human characters, only 
 to yield greater and greater goodness the oftener it 
 is brand(i)ed; the universal guest on Christmas day 
 at every English table, who is always received with 
 cheers the instant of his arrival — the ever-welcome 
 English Plum-Pudding ! 
 
 The Plum-Pudding was placed before Madame 
 de la Betise, who, all smiles of conscious triumph, 
 proceeded to pour it out, and to send it round, with 
 a kindly intimation that "there was;plenty more in 
 the tea-urn." 
 
 The guests proceeded to taste'the pudding, when 
 it was universally pronounced "delicious." Still 
 their faces did not express much relish; but Monsieur 
 de la B£tise was extremely loud in its piraises. He 
 had already emptied one cup, and sent up for a 
 second ; but no one seconded his enthusiasm, much 
 less followed his example. A dead silence ensued 
 for several minutes. At last, a captain of dragoons, 
 bolder than flie rest, ventured to remark, that " he hardly thought his was sweet 
 enough," and asked for some sugar ; Charles the Second recommended " a little 
 
OF A FRENCH PLUM-PUDDING. 
 
 439 
 
 cream ;" whilst 
 Oliver Cromwell 
 called aloud to 
 the servant "to 
 take away the 
 filthy stuff !" 
 
 There was a 
 universal conster- 
 nation, relieved 
 by a, few laughs, 
 followed by a 
 long-frozen si- 
 lence. The ice 
 at last was'hroken 
 by the timid ob- 
 servation of Mary 
 Queen of Scots, 
 that "the pud- 
 
 g ding was farfrom 
 
 g bad, but she did 5 
 
 g not see any S 
 
 H plums." v 
 
 a Whereupon g 
 the lid was re- g 
 
 g moved, and the g 
 
 £ plums werefound " 
 
 g to be all at the 
 bottom of the 
 tea-urn ! 
 
 More conster- 
 nation ; but Ma- 
 dame de la Be- 
 tise, with great 
 presence of mind, 
 assured her dear 
 friends that it 
 was perfectly cor- 
 rect. The plums 
 were always kept 
 to the last. In 
 the nobleman's 
 family with whom 
 she had the ho- 
 nour of living in 
 Whetstone Park 
 
 — (gxeat sensation) — the plums were always reserved for a famous game towards 
 the latter part of the evening, which game was called snapdragon. Would any 
 
 of her dear friends 
 at it ? 
 
 was received with 
 basin was procured 
 to Madame'* in- 
 flame was applied 
 la Betise's face be 
 The company ar- 
 round the table, and 
 with warmth into 
 of the game, 
 finding that snap- 
 at which they only 
 and got no plums, 
 from it, with a ge- 
 
 like to try a hand 
 The proposition 
 cheers. A large 
 and filled, according 
 structions, and the 
 Poor Monsieur de 
 gan to light up. 
 ranged themselves 
 proceeded to enter 
 the burning spirit 
 But the guests, 
 dragon was a game 
 burnt their fingers 
 gradually retired 
 nerally expressed 
 
440 
 
 A TRENCH PLUM-PUDDING., 
 
 opinion that " the end of the English Plum-Pudding, if anything, was worse than 
 even the beginning." 
 
 , Monsieur de la Bfitise, however, was the most forward in the game; and the 
 more he burnt his ringers, the louder he shouted, " Oh! It is very much beautiful! 
 Yes." 
 
 The captain of dragoons, again bolder than the rest, or more accustomed, 
 probably, than his companions, to standing British fire, thrust his hand right into 
 the midst of the flaming washhand-basin. Not approving of the sensation, how- 
 ever, he withdrew his fingers hastily, and, in so doing, upset the bowl. The spirit 
 ran like wildfire along the carpet, and the uproar that ensued defies alike drawing 
 and description. The women shrieked, and ran out of the room to feint upon the 
 staircase. The men rushed about for wet towels and blankets, and the fire was 
 soon extinguished. 
 
 When the smoke had okared away, a brilliant thought flashed upon Monsieur 
 de la Betise. Looking philosophically at one of the wet towels, he advanced to 
 Madame. " My dear, in boiling the Plum-pudding," he inquired softly, " did you 
 put all the things into the saucepan?" 
 
 " I did— every one." 
 
 " And nothing else 2 " 
 
 " Not a single thing else, I can assure you." 
 
 " I thought as much," was her husband's answer. " Ladies and gentlemen," 
 he then said, turning to his disconcerted guests, " I am very sorry our English 
 Plum-Pudding was not better; but I am sure it would have turned out very 
 differently if Madame had not forgotten to boil it in a cloth." 
 
 Whether the guests were satisfied with this explanation for the loss of their 
 dinner, our simple story cannot tell ; but at all events, Monsieur and Madame de 
 la Betise were cured of their Anglo-maniac folly. They were content, ever 
 afterwards, to talk, and dress, and eat, as other French persons do. They sold 
 their bouledogue, King Charles, and cats; and never, as long as they lived, did they 
 try another experimental dinner in English style of cookery. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 mi 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 A. 
 
 Adcltebation of our 
 
 food, 10. 
 Ale, Burton, 395. 
 
 Edinburgh, 395. 
 
 spiced, 395. 
 Almond cheesecakes, 363. 
 
 custard, 30). 
 
 green pickle, 349. 
 
 green tarts, 269. 
 
 icing, 359. 
 
 for bride-cakes, 
 309. 
 
 puddings, 254. 
 
 baked, 254. 
 
 to make, 254. 
 
 wafers, 275. 
 American oven, xxi. 
 Amour parfait, 390. 
 Anchovies, butter, 190. 
 
 essence of, 190.. 
 
 sauce, 192. 
 au beurre, 192. 
 
 toast of, 190. 
 
 to know good, 190. 
 
 with fried bread, 190. 
 Angelica, 2 i 5. 
 Apple, baked, 267. 
 
 cheesecakes, 363. 
 
 codlins, to pickle, 
 349. 
 
 to keep, 330. 
 
 (green) to preserve, 
 331. 
 
 dried, 330. 
 
 dumplings, 267. 
 
 fool, 307. 
 
 fritters, 279. 
 
 marmalade, 319,320. 
 
 jelly, 313. 
 
 another way for pre- 
 serving, 313. 
 
 petits gateaux, 320. 
 
 meringues, 277. 
 
 Apple, pippins, to preserve 
 in slices, 330. 
 golden, 330. 
 
 in rice, 277. 
 
 sauce, 192. 
 
 Bouffle with rice, 286. 
 
 to bake whole, 330. 
 
 wine, 378. 
 Apricot," apple jelly for 
 - preserving, 3] 3. 
 
 cheese, 29 1 . 
 
 conserve of, 329. 
 
 cream, 303. 
 
 fritters, 279. 
 
 jelly, 313, 314. 
 
 in brandy, 329. 
 
 marmalade, 320. 
 
 petits gateaux of, 320. 
 
 pie, 240. 
 
 pudding, 255. 
 
 puffs, 274. 
 
 sweetmeat for tarts, 
 268. 
 
 to preserve, 328. 
 
 another way, 329. 
 Articles for the table when 
 
 in season, 33. 
 Artichokes, 215. 
 
 , a la St. Cloud, 215. 
 
 bottoms, 215, 216. 
 
 fried, 216. 
 
 Jerusalem, 215. 
 
 pickled, 350. 
 
 preserved whole, 331. 
 
 the Spanish way, 331 . 
 
 salad, 216. 
 
 leaf, 215. 
 
 soup, 55. 
 Artificial cheese, 291. 
 Asparagus, 213. 
 
 asperge a la pois, 214. 
 
 bottled, 331. 
 
 en croustade, 213. 
 
 forced, 214. 
 
 Italian fashion,, 214. 
 
 Asparagus, pickled, 350. 
 
 soup with peas, 55. 
 
 clear, 55. 
 Aspic. 312. 
 
 jelly, 312. 
 Aqua mirabilis, 386. 
 
 B. 
 
 Baba, 359. 
 
 another receipt, 360. 
 
 mould, xxii. 
 Bacon and cabbage, 126. 
 
 and eggs to boil, 126. 
 
 broil, 126. 
 
 cure, Cobbett's, 124. 
 
 for larding, 126. 
 
 fraze, 127. 
 
 gammon to bake, 127. 
 
 to make, 126. 
 
 toasts, 127. 
 Bain marie pan, xx. and 
 
 XXV. 
 
 sauce, 193. 
 Baked custard, 302 v 
 
 pears, 302. 
 Baking plate, xiii. 
 Balance skewer, xxi. 
 Baldwin's fromagere for 
 
 toasting cheese, 298. 
 Balls of eggs, 282. 
 Balm wine, 379. 
 Banbury cakes, 359. 
 Barbel, boiled, 158. 
 
 broiled, 158. 
 
 stewed, 158. 
 Barberry drops, 331. 
 
 jelly, 314. 
 
 marmalade, 321. 
 
 prepare for tartlets, 
 332. 
 
 preserved in bunches, 
 332. 
 
 to candy, 332. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Barley broth, Scotch, 46. 
 
 pudding, 253. 
 
 wine, 379. 
 Basting ladle, xvii. 
 Bath buns, 369. 
 Batter puddings, 255. 
 
 burnt sauce, 193. 
 Beans, a la Bretonne, 217. 
 
 a la Francaise, 217. 
 
 a la maitre d'hotel, 
 
 217. _ 
 boiled, 218. 
 
 en allumette, 217. 
 French, 216. 
 pickled, 350. 
 fricasseed, 217. 
 garden, preserved, 
 
 218, 332. 
 haricot, 218. 
 
 a la Francaise, 219. 
 roots, 219. 
 white, 219. 
 do., Spanish re- 
 ceipt, 219. 
 puree of white, 218. 
 salad of, 218. 
 stewed, 218. 
 tarts, 269. 
 to keep, 216, 217. 
 Bechamel, 1-92. 
 sauce, 193. 
 Beef, a la braise, 72. 
 a la marinade, 66. 
 a la mode, 75. 
 do., another way, 
 76. 
 brains a la sauce pi- 
 
 quante, 81. 
 brains fried, 81. 
 brisket of, stewed, 
 
 77. 
 bouilli, S9. 
 bubble and squeak, 
 
 8.1. 
 cake, 73. 
 collared, 65. 
 collops, 74. 
 minced au naturel, 
 
 . 74. 
 savoury, 74. 
 cow heel, 83. 
 fillet of, 66. 
 roasted, 66. 
 
 or round, spiced, 
 67. 
 fricandeau, 77- 
 fricassee, cold roast, 
 
 77. 
 fork, xviii. 
 gravy, 37. 
 
 haricot of ox-tails, 
 76. 
 
 Beef, hashed, 79. 
 
 heart, 74. 
 roasted, 74. 
 
 hung, 69, 70. 
 
 Dutch, 70. 
 
 hunters, 68. 
 
 kidney rognon de 
 baeuf superbe, 
 fried, 72. 
 
 kidneys, stewed, 73. 
 
 leg of, broth, 45. 
 
 marrow bones, 81. 
 
 baked, 81. 
 
 olives, 67. 
 
 ox-cheek, stew of, 78. 
 
 ox-tails, 76. 
 
 palates of, 72. 
 
 pickle for, 69. 
 
 pies, raised with truf- 
 fles, 241. 
 
 potted, 83, 233. 
 
 roast, 65. 
 
 rond de bceuf en mi- 
 niature, 67. 
 
 round ofj salt, 67. 
 
 rumps of, en mate- 
 lotte, 77. 
 
 rump, stewed, 68. 
 steak, stewed, 70. 
 
 plain, broiled, 70. 
 
 Bauer crout, German 
 receipt, 78. 
 
 saunders, 78. 
 
 sausages, 81. 
 
 sirloin, the inside, to 
 cook, 66. 
 another way, 66. 
 another way, 66. 
 
 spiced 66. 
 
 soup, 39. 
 
 steak-tongs, xix. 
 
 steaks a la Francaise, 
 71. 
 broiled, 71. 
 
 Parisienne, 72. 
 
 pie, 240, 241. 
 
 pudding, 255. 
 
 rolled and roasted, 71. 
 
 stew, 71. 
 
 stewed, paste for, 
 272. 
 
 tongues, to cure, 79. 
 
 to dress, 80. 
 
 larded, 80. 
 
 stewed, 60. 
 
 tripe, 82. 
 Beer, to restore stale, 406. 
 Beetroots, 219. 
 Beverages, 386. 
 
 aqua mirabilis, 386. 
 
 cherry brandy, -386. 
 black, 386. . 
 
 Beverages, capillaire, to 
 
 make, 387. 
 syrup of, 387. 
 caudle, 387. 
 caudle, a brown, 387. 
 
 a white, 387. 
 curapoa, 386. 
 hippocras, 388. 
 red, 388. 
 white, 388. 
 Kirschen wasser, 388. 
 lemonade, 388. 
 maraschino, 388. 
 mead, 329. 
 frontiniac, 389. 
 sack, 389. 
 Noyeau, 389. 
 orangeade, 390. 
 parfait amour, 390. 
 , punch, 390. 
 milk, 390. 
 rum milk for turtle 
 
 soup, 390. 
 ratafia of four fruits 
 
 391. 
 ratafia of seeds, 39 1. 
 ratafia without sugar 
 
 or syrup, 3S1. 
 shrub, 894. 
 another receipt, 391. 
 Bherbet, 391. 
 vanilla, creme of, 
 
 392. 
 vespetro, ,392. 
 wholesome beverage, 
 
 392. 
 Bills of fare, 408. 
 
 for January, 411. 
 February and March, 
 
 411. 
 April, 411. 
 May, 412. 
 June, 417. 
 July, 422. 
 August, 427. 
 September, 431. 
 October, 432. 
 November, 432. 
 December, 432. 
 small breakfasts, 433. 
 large dinner for thirty, 
 
 433. 
 ball supper, 433. 
 Supper for 50 or 60, 
 
 433. 
 Birch wine, 379. 
 Birds potted, 234. 
 Biscuit, crust, 240. 
 devilled, 361. . 
 preserved . fruits or 
 
 sweatmeats, 332. 
 orange, 362. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 443 
 
 Biscuit, padding, 2S5. 
 
 Savoy, 362. 
 Black cock, 145. 
 Blanc for fowls, 136. 
 Blackberry wine, 380. i 
 Blacking, 401. 
 Blacktops, simple receipt, 
 333. 
 
 whole, 332. 
 Blancmanges, 322. 
 
 a la Francaise, 322. 
 
 Dutch, 323. 
 
 en surprise, 322. 
 
 with preserved orange, 
 323. 
 
 hot, 323. 
 Blanquette d'agneau, 109. 
 
 de mouton, 102. 
 
 de veau, 92. 
 Boiling, observations on, 63. 
 Bordeaux cake, 361. 
 Borders of butter, 288. 
 Bottled asparagus, 331. 
 Brandy apricots, 329. 
 
 cherries, 333. 
 
 cherry black, 386. 
 
 greengages, 341. 
 Bread, 370. 
 
 and butter puddings, 
 256. 
 
 cheesecakes, 363. 
 
 French, 370. 
 rolls, 371. 
 
 puddings, 256. 
 
 Scotch, short, 371. 
 Breakfast cake, 365. 
 
 hot, 360. 
 Brewing, 393. 
 Bride cake, 360. 
 Brill, 158. 
 Brioche cheese, 291. 
 Broccoli, 220. 
 
 and buttered eggs,220. 
 Broiling, observations on, 
 
 64. 
 Broth, 45. 
 
 .beef, 81. 
 
 fish, 54. 
 Brown bread, ice, 309. 
 
 caudle, 387. 
 
 colouring for made 
 dishes, 211. 
 
 sauce, 193. 
 
 stock for soups, 35. 
 
 stout, 396. 
 Bullaces, to preserve, 333. 
 Buns, 369. 
 
 Bath, 369. 
 
 common, 369, 370. 
 
 plum, 370. 
 
 seed, 370. 
 Burton ale, 395. 
 
 Butter, 288. 
 
 borders, 288. 
 
 cakes, 361. 
 
 iced as cheese, 292. 
 
 melted without boil- 
 ing, 288. 
 
 preserved for win- 
 ter, 288. 
 
 to clarify, 288. 
 Buttered eggs, 282. 
 
 and bacon, 221. 
 
 boiled, 220. 
 
 and stewed, 220. 
 
 for game, 221. 
 
 Tagoflt, 221. 
 
 red, 221. 
 
 pickled, 350, 351. 
 
 to stew, 221. 
 
 salad, 221. 
 
 to keep, 220. 
 
 white, pickled, 351. 
 Cabinet pudding, 256, 257. 
 Cakes, 358. 
 
 almond, icing for, 354. 
 
 almond, small, 359. 
 
 Banbury, 359. 
 
 beef, 73, 
 
 Bordeaux, 361. 
 
 breakfast, 365. 
 or tea, 360. 
 
 bride, 360. 
 almond, icing for, 
 309. 
 
 butter, 361. 
 
 carraway, 364. 
 
 cherry, 364. 
 
 cinnamon, 364. 
 
 colouring for, 314. 
 
 curd, 364. 
 
 currant, 364. 
 
 diet bread, 361. 
 
 family, 365. 
 
 good plum, 366. 
 
 gooseberry, 365. 
 
 icing for, 308. 
 
 lemon, 365. 
 
 making and baking, 
 358. 
 
 pound, 366. 
 
 plum or plain, 366. 
 
 quince, 367. 
 
 raspberry, 367. 
 
 rice, 367. 
 pound, 367. 
 
 rout, 367. 
 
 Savoy, 368. 
 
 sponge, 367. 
 
 Cakes, twelfth, 368. 
 
 Yorkshire, 368. 
 Calf's brains, 96. 
 
 ears, 94. 
 
 Btuffed, 94. 
 
 feet, 95. 
 
 fricasseed, 95. 
 stewed, 95. 
 
 head, 92, 93. 
 
 a la mattre d'h6tel, 
 
 93. 
 a la tortue, 94. 
 baked, 93. 
 for grill, 92. 
 hashed, 94. 
 pie, 241. 
 
 heart, 96. 
 
 kidney, 96. 
 
 liver, 96. 
 
 feet soup a la tu- 
 reen, 94. 
 
 tail soup, 44. 
 
 foot jelly, 314. 
 Candied citron, 336. 
 
 greengages, 341. 
 
 plums, 345. 
 Cane-bottom chairs, to 
 
 make, 401. 
 Caper sauces, 194. 
 Capillaire, to make, 387. 
 
 syrup of, 387. 
 Caramel, conserve, 327. 
 Carp, 162. 
 
 stewed, 162. 
 
 sauce, 195. 
 Cardoons, 222. 
 
 in cheese, 293. 
 Carraway cakes, 364. 
 Carrot pudding, 259. 
 
 soup, 56. 
 Carving, necessity of prac- 
 tising, 15. 
 Cases, patty, to cutout,271. 
 Casserole of rice, 277. 
 Caudle, 387. 
 
 brown, 387. 
 
 white, 387. 
 Cauliflowers, 222. 
 
 and cheese, 293. 
 
 au fromage, 222. 
 
 a la Francaise, 222. 
 
 to boil, 222. 
 
 chartreuse of, 222. 
 Char, potted, 234. 
 Chartreuse of vegetables, 
 
 213. 
 Cedrat ice water, 310. 
 Celery, 195. 
 
 sauce, 195. 
 
 soup, 57. 
 
 stewed, 57 
 
 pickled, 223. 
 
Mi 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Charlotte, 257. 
 
 Si la Fran; aise, 258. 
 a l'ltalienne, 258. 
 a la Parisienne, 258. 
 a la Russe, 258, 
 au ehtremet, 257. 
 Cheap sauce,' 195, 
 soup, 40. 
 good, 40. 
 Cheddar cheese, 290. 
 'Cheese, 288, 289. 
 
 and cauliflowers, 293. 
 apricot, to make, 291. 
 artificial, 291. 
 as iced butter, 292. 
 Brioche, 291. 
 cardoons in, 293. 
 Cheddar, 290. 
 Cheshire, 289. 
 cold butters for, 288. 
 crab, 292. 
 cray fish, 292. 
 cream, 290, 292. 
 
 and marmalade, 
 292. 
 
 iced, 2H2. 
 , another receipt, 
 
 _ 292. 
 
 plain family way, 
 292. 
 damson, 293, 294. 
 Derby, 290. 
 double Gloucester, 
 
 289. 
 Dunlop, 290, 
 entrees, 294. 
 foreign, 290. 
 fresh, 294, 
 fritters, 290, 294. 
 Gruyere, 290. 
 maccaroni, 295, 
 marigold, 294. 
 North Wiltshire, 289. 
 paste, 295. 
 pork, 295. 
 Italian, 296. 
 potted, 234, 291, 
 pounded, 295. 
 puffs, 296. 
 
 roasted, for after din- 
 i ner, 296, 
 
 '" sage, 297. 
 
 Scotch rabbit, toasted, 
 
 298. 
 single Gloucester,290. 
 stewed, 297. 
 souffle, 296. 
 soup, 297. 
 toast, 297. 
 toasts of, 291. 
 to preservesound.296. 
 Welsh rabbit, 298. 
 
 Cheese, Welsh rabbit, an- 
 • other way, 298. 
 with eggs, 28£, 
 Cheese cakes, 382. 
 
 a la Due de Guise, 
 363. 
 , almond, 363. 
 
 apple, 363. 
 
 bread, 363. 
 
 common, 362, 
 
 citron, 36 3. 
 
 de St. Denis, 362. 
 
 lemon, 363. 
 
 orange, 364. 
 Cheese-toaster, xvi. 
 Cherries, dried without 
 sugar, 333. 
 
 in brandy, 333. 
 Cherries, preserved dry in 
 bunches, 334. 
 
 to candv, 334, 
 
 to dry, 334. 
 
 to keep, 334. 
 Cherry brandy, 333, 386. 
 black, 386. 
 
 cakes, 364. 
 
 custards, 302. 
 
 ice, 310. 
 cream, 304, 
 
 jelly, 316. 
 
 marmalade, 321 . 
 
 puddings, 258, 259, 
 
 tart, 269. 
 
 wine, 380. 
 Chevaux de frise,lamb, 109. 
 Chickens, 137. 
 
 and ham, potted, 234. 
 
 boiled, 136. 
 
 braised, 137. 
 
 broth, 46. 
 
 curried, 137. 
 
 cutlets of, 137. 
 
 fried, a la Malabar, 
 ' 137. 
 
 pie, 241. 
 
 pulled, 137v" 
 Chocolate, 371, 376, 
 
 bonbons, 377. 
 
 cream, 304. 
 
 drops, 376. 
 
 whipped, 304, 
 
 wine, 380. 
 Chub, boiled, 163. 
 
 broiled, 163. 
 Cinnamon cakes, 364. 
 Citron, candied, 336. 
 
 cheesecakes, 363. 
 
 pudding, 258. 
 
 preserved liquid, 336. 
 white, 336. 
 Claret, artificial, 380. 
 Clary wine, 380. 
 
 Clear apple jelly, 312. 
 
 'jelly', 315.. 
 Clotted cream, 304, 
 Cloudy beer, to fine, 413, 
 Cocoa, 372. 
 Cock-a-leekie, 40, 
 Cod, baked, 160. 
 
 boiled, 158. 
 
 'crimped, 159. 
 
 curried, 160, 161; see 
 also, Receipts, 
 ! 506, 509. 
 
 fricasseed, 161, 
 
 head, 160. 
 
 omelette, 162. 
 
 pie, 160. 
 
 salt, 161, 
 
 sauce, 195. 
 
 scalloped, 160, 
 
 slices of, 159. 
 
 sounds, boiled, 159. 
 broiled, 162. 
 ragout, 159. 
 
 stewed, 158, 
 
 tail of, 160. 
 Coffee a 1'eau cream, au 
 bain marie, 374. 
 
 cream a la Francaise, 
 
 37s; 
 
 whipped, 375. 
 il la Francaise, 374. 
 a l'ltalienne, 374 
 au bain marie, 374. 
 au crfeme, 374. 
 au jaune d'eeuf, 375. 
 canister, xiv, 
 cream, 374. 
 French method, 372. 
 frothed or whipped, 
 
 376. 
 jelly, 376. 
 
 made in French fil- 
 ter, 373. 
 milk, 374. 
 parfait amour, 376. 
 to give the flavour of 
 
 vanilla, 375. 
 to make with' hot- 
 water, 373. 
 cold water, 373. 
 roast, 373. 
 
 roaster (automaton), 
 xiv. 
 Colouring for jellies, cakes, 
 &c, 314, 
 fine cochineal, 312. 
 Coloured sugars for orna- 
 menting, 376. 
 Common buns, 369, 370. 
 
 cheesecakes, 362. 
 Compote of ripe goose- 
 berries, 340. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 44$ 
 
 Compote of greengages, 
 
 341. 
 Confectionery, 324.' 
 Conserve of apricots, 
 , 329. 
 
 caramel, 327. 
 
 strawberry, 348. 
 Contents of chapters, vii. 
 Cook-hold, xxi. 
 Cooking apparatus (gas), 
 
 XXV. ' 
 
 Cottager's stove^xxv. 
 Court bouillon, 190; 
 Cow-heel, 83. 
 
 another way, 83. ' 
 Cowslip wine, 381. 
 Crab 162. 
 
 baked, 163. 
 
 cheese, 292. 
 
 dressed, 162/. 
 Cray-fish, 163. 
 
 in aspic, 163. 
 
 soup, 52. 
 Creams, 303. 
 
 a la Francaise, 374. 
 
 a l'eau a la Francaise, 
 374. 
 
 apricot, 303. 
 
 au naturel, 306. 
 
 cabbage, 303. 
 
 cheese, 209, 202. 
 
 and marmalade, 292. 
 
 iced, 293. 
 
 another receipt, 
 
 293. 
 plain, family' way, 
 292. 
 
 cherry ice, 304. 
 
 chocolate, 304. 
 whipped, 304. 
 
 clotted, 304. 
 
 coffee au, 374J 
 
 currant, 305. ' 
 
 currant ice, 305, 311. 
 
 custard, o02. 
 
 du the, 377. 
 
 excellent, 304. 
 
 gooseberry, 305. 
 
 fresh strawberry ice, 
 309. 
 
 pancakes, 278. 
 
 pastry, 305. 
 
 Italian, 305. 
 
 lemonade, 305. 
 
 pine apple, 306. 
 
 raspberry and ' cur- 
 rant, 306. 
 
 Rhenish, 306.' 
 
 sauce, 196. 
 
 strawberry ice', 305. 
 
 strawberries', 305, 306. 
 
 substitute for, 406. ! 
 
 Cream, tea, 317. 
 '! to take milk from, 
 406. 
 to keep, 306. 
 Vanilla, 392, 406. 
 coffee, 374. 
 au bain marie, 374. 
 ^ a l'e;iu, 374, 
 a l'eau a la Francaise, 
 
 • 375. 
 whipped coffee a 
 
 l'eau, 375. 
 white, 374. 
 Creme, omelet a la, 284. 
 Croquets, 276. 
 
 pf rice, 276. 
 Crust, short, 359. ! 
 
 and rich, not sweet, 
 358. 
 Cucumbers, young, to pic- 
 kle, 351. 
 and onions, to pickle, 
 
 351. 
 sauce, 196. 
 stewed, 222. 
 cullis for all sorts of 
 
 meat, 82. 
 curacoa, 386. 
 Curd cakes, 364. 
 pudding, 259. 
 puffs, 275. 
 Curing beef, 69. 
 tongue, 79. 
 Currants (black) water ice, 
 311. 
 cakes, 304. 
 cream, 305. 
 fresh water ice, 311. 
 fritters a la dauphine, 
 
 279. 
 ices, 305, 311. 
 jam, 335. 
 black, 335. 
 of all colouts, 335. 
 jelly black, 315. 
 red, 315. 
 white, 315. 
 White or red, 315. 
 dumplings, 267. 
 tart, 269. 
 marmalade, 321. 
 preserved, 335. ' 
 dry, 335. 
 for tarts, 335. 
 pudding, 258. ' 
 Curries, cod, 160. 
 «Siicken, 137. 
 fish, 164. 
 
 al'Indienn^, 104. 
 lobster, 170. ' 
 soles, 188, 
 •Sbtip,S9. '' 
 
 Curries, veal, 92. 
 cutlets, 88. 
 whitings, 188. 
 Custards, 301. 
 
 a la Parisiennej 302. 
 almond, 301. 
 baked, 302. 
 cherry, 302. 
 cream, 302. £53J 
 plain, 302. 
 ; ; ; lemon, 303, 
 orange, 303. 
 rice without cream, 
 
 303. 
 souffles, 286. 
 Cutlet pan, xx. 
 Cutlets, fowl and game, 
 154. 
 mutton, 100. 
 Cutlets, veal, 88. 
 Cyprus wine, to imitate 
 382. 
 
 D. 
 
 Damson cheese, 293, 294. 
 dried, 336, 337. 
 dumplings, 267. 
 jelly, 316. 
 pudding, 259. 
 tart, 270. 
 to keep, 337. 
 to preserve, 337. 
 wine, 382. 
 Daried mould, xxi. 
 Dauphin gateau, 274. 
 Decanters, to clean, 401. j 
 Derby cheese, 290. 
 Derbyshire pudding, 264. 
 De St. Denis cheesecakes, 
 
 362. 
 Devilled biscuits, 361. 
 Diet bread cake, 361. 
 Different degrees of pre- 
 paring, sugar, 
 325. 
 
 Digester (Baldwin and 
 Co.'s)xv. 
 saucepan, xv. 
 stewpan; xvi.' 
 Directions for using Bald- 
 win's Fromagere, 
 298. 
 Dish cover, xiii. 
 Dishing up fork, xix. 
 Double Gloucester cheese, 
 
 289. 
 Dried apples, 330. 
 
 cherries without ''su- 
 gar, 333. " 
 damsons, 336, $37. 
 
446 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Dried greengages, 341. 
 Dripping pan, xvii. 
 Drops, barberry, 331. 
 
 chocolate, 376. 
 Due de Guise, cheesecakes 
 
 a la, 3G3. 
 Ducks, 131. 
 
 boiled, 132. 
 
 hashed. 132. 
 
 pie, 242. 
 
 roasted, 131. 
 
 stewed, 132. 
 
 wild, 133. 
 Dumplings, apple, 267. 
 
 baked, 267. 
 
 currant jelly, 267. 
 
 damson, 267. 
 
 hard, 267. 
 
 Norfolk, 267. 
 
 paste, 267. 
 
 raspberry, 268. 
 
 Scotch, 267. 
 
 suet, 268. 
 
 yeast, 268. 
 Dunlop cheese, 290. 
 Dutch sauce, 197. 
 
 herrings, 323. 
 
 E. 
 
 Edinburgh oat ale, 395. 
 Eels, 164. 
 
 anguilles a l'Hol- 
 landaise, 164. 
 
 boiled, 165. 
 
 collared, 165. 
 
 crumbed, 165. 
 
 fried, 165. 
 
 pie,. 242. 
 
 sauce, 197. 
 
 soup, 52. 
 
 spitchcocked, 166. 
 
 stewed, 166. 
 ft 282. 
 
 balls, 282. 
 
 buttered, 2S2. 
 
 flip;, 3»9. 
 
 gratia of, with cheese. 
 282. 
 
 hot, 399. 
 
 maftre d'hStel, 282. 
 
 pie, 242. 
 
 pie, minced, 242. 
 
 plovers,. 283. 
 
 poached, 282. 
 
 poacher, xviii. 
 
 preserve, to, 405. 
 
 sauce, 197. 
 
 Scotch, 283. 
 
 timbaa of, 283. 
 
 whisk, xxi. 
 
 Elder buds, pickled, 352. 
 
 wine, 382. 
 
 another way, 382. 
 
 flower wine, 382. 
 Endives, 22%. 
 
 au jus, 223. 
 
 sauce, 197. 
 En surprise, blancmange, 
 
 322. 
 Entrees of fish, 157. 
 
 cheese, 294. 
 Entremet, charlotte, 257. 
 
 jellies for, 316, 
 Espagnole, 43. 
 Excellent cream, 304. , 
 
 F. 
 
 Family dessert, to preserve 
 fruit for, 338. 
 cakes, 365. 
 Fancy pastry, 240. 
 Farces and stuffings, 210. 
 Farce of veal of fowl, 210. 
 Fawn, to dress, 144. 
 Fennel sauce, 1 97. 
 Figs,green,topreserve,337. 
 Figs, ripe, to preserve, 337. 
 Fillet of veal, 84. 
 mutton, 101. 
 Fine cochineal colouring, 
 
 312. 
 Fire, economical use of, 
 403. 
 stewpan, xvi. 
 to extinguish, 403. 
 Fish, salt and fresh water, 
 155. 
 anchovies, 190. 
 butter, 190. 
 essence of, 190. 
 to know good, 190. 
 toast of, 190. 
 with fried bread, 
 190. 
 barbel,, hoiled,, 158. 
 broiled, 158. 
 stewed, 158. 
 brill, 158. 
 carp, 162. 
 
 stewed, 162. 
 choice dishes of, for 
 entries, 156. 
 to choose, 31. 
 chub, broiled, 163, 
 
 164. 
 cod, baked, 160. 
 boiled, 158. 
 crimped, 159. 
 curried, 160, 161. 
 See also receipts, 
 506 and 509. 
 
 Fish, cod, fricasseed, 161. 
 head, 160. 
 omelette, 162. 
 pie, 160. 
 salt, 161. 
 scalloped, 160.' 
 slices of, 159. 
 sounds, boiled, 159. 
 broiled, 162. 
 ragout, 159. 
 stewed, 158". 
 tail of, 160. 
 eold jelly, to cover, 
 317. 
 crab, 162. 
 baked, 163. 
 dressed, 162. 
 cray fish, 163. 
 
 in aspic, 1 63. 
 eulli&of, 191. 
 curries of, 164. 
 
 a 1'Indienne, 164. 
 eels, 164. 
 anguilles a 1'Hol- 
 
 landaise, 164. 
 boiled, 165. 
 collared, 165. 
 crumbed, 165. 
 fried, 165. 
 pie,. 242. 
 sauce, 197. 
 soup, 52. 
 
 spitchcocked, 166. 
 stewed, 166. 
 fritters, 280. 
 gurnet or gurnard, 
 
 166. 
 haddocks, 167. 
 bake, 168. 
 broil, 168. 
 finnon, to cure, 167. 
 dress, to, 167. 
 dress dried, 167 
 dry, to, 167. 
 soup, 52. 
 stew, 167. 
 halibut, fillets of, 167. 
 
 stewed, 167. 
 herrings, 168. 
 baked, 168. 
 boiled, 169. 
 broiled, 169. 
 fried, 169. 
 pot, to, 169. 
 kettle and slice,, xvii. 
 lobsters, 169. 
 butter, 170. 
 curried, 170. 
 gratia of, 170. 
 or prawns, or cray- 
 fish, as receipts 
 163,520. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 447 
 
 Fish, lobsters* roast, 170. 
 Berved, 169. 
 stewed, 170. 
 mackarel, 171. 
 baked, 171. 
 broiled, 171. 
 bones broiled, 172. 
 fillets of, 172. 
 boiled, 173. 
 fry a la Francaise, 
 173. 
 a lamaitre d'ho- 
 te], 173. 
 pie, 171. 
 stewed, 173. 
 marinade, 157. 
 mullet, grey, 174. 
 red, 1 73. 
 other ways, 174. 
 observations on 
 cleaning and 
 dressing, 1S5. 
 oysters, 175. 
 
 a l'imperiale, 174. 
 fritters, 175. 
 pie, 175.. 
 roast, 175. 
 scalloped, 175. 
 stewed, 175. 
 patties, 273. 
 pie, 243. 
 jack, 176. 
 John Dory, 164. 
 pike, 176. 
 bake, 176. 
 boil, 176. 
 . plaice, 177. 
 prawns, 176. 
 boil, 177. 
 serve, 177. 
 soups, 51. 
 
 magnifique, 52. 
 salads, 188. 
 Italian, 189. 
 lobster, 189., 
 inanltalian,189. 
 salmon, 177. 
 boil, 179. 
 broiled. 180. 
 collaredy 179. 
 crimped ala creme, 
 
 178. 
 dressed, 177. 
 dried to broil, 180. 
 dry, to, 178. 
 en papillotes, 180. 
 pickle, to, 179. 
 pot, to, 179. 
 pudding, 181. 
 quenelles, 180. 
 roasted, ISO. ^ : 
 stewed, 180. 
 
 Fish, scissors, xvi. 
 shrimps, 185. 
 
 toast croute aux 
 crevelles, 185. 
 alareineAmelie, 
 185. 
 skate, 183., 
 
 crimped, 183. 
 smelts, 185. 
 bake,. 185. 
 soles, 181. 
 
 a la Portuguese, 
 
 182. 
 au plat, 182. 
 boiled, 131. 
 bread crumbed. 
 
 181. 
 fillets of, in aspic, 
 
 183, 
 
 fillets fried, to go 
 round other fish, 
 183. 
 fillets for a pie, 
 
 182. 
 maitre d'hotel, 
 182. 
 sturgeon, 184. 
 baked, 184. 
 boiled, 181. 
 broiled, 184. 
 fillets of, 184. 
 maitre d'hotel, 
 
 185. 
 roasted, 184. 
 stewed, 184. 
 trout, 185. 
 
 truitealagenevoise, 
 186. 
 a la princesse 
 
 royale, 186. 
 stewed, 1 86. 
 turbot, 1 86. 
 ala roi, 187. 
 fillets of, 187. 
 water souchy, 187. 
 whitings, 188. 
 curry of, 188. 
 fillets of, maitre 
 
 dlidtel, 188. 
 
 quenelles of, 188. 
 
 white bait, 138. 
 
 Elip, egg, or egg hot, 399. 
 
 Floor, cloth to clean, 401. 
 
 Flour, to detect whiting or 
 
 chalk in, 402. 
 Fondeau, 299. 
 Foreign cheeses, 290. 
 Fool, apple, 307. 
 
 gooseberry, 307. 
 Forcemeat ingredients, 
 
 210,211. 
 Four fruits, ratafia of, 391. 
 
 Fowls, 133. 
 
 a la bechamel, 135. 
 a la Provencal, 135, 
 and meat, 362. 
 boiled, 133. 
 broiled, 134. 
 i cold, 133. 
 
 fricassee of, 135. 
 gravy for, 136. 
 grill, if cold, 134. 
 Guinea, roasted, 135. 
 hashed, 134. 
 pudding, 259. 
 roast, 133. 
 with truffles, 134. 
 Francaise, pancakes a la, 
 
 278. 
 Freezing machine, (Ben- 
 ham's patent) xiv. 
 French bread, 370. 
 cook's knife, xix. 
 dish of pastry, 276. 
 filter, to make coffee, 
 
 373. 
 method of preparing 
 coffee, 372. 
 French rolls, 371. 
 Fresh cheese, 294. 
 
 cream, strawberry ice, 
 of, 309. 
 Fricandeau, beef, 77. 
 
 veal, 92. 
 Fricasse'e, roast beef, cold, 
 77- 
 fowl, 135. 
 rabbit, 153. 
 Fritters, 278, 279. 
 apple, 279. 
 apricot, 279. 
 au blanc, 279. 
 a l'Anglo-Francaise, 
 
 279. 
 cheese, 294. 
 a la dauphine, 280. 
 fish, 280. 
 mould, xix. 
 omelet, 284. 
 orange, 280. '' ( 
 oyster, 280. 
 Parmesan, 280 
 royale, 211. 
 soufflces, 281. 
 Spanish, 281. 
 Fromagere, directions for 
 
 using, 298. 
 Frontiniac mead, 389. 
 Frothed or whipped cof- 
 fee, 376. 
 Fruit biscuits of any kind, 
 
 361. 
 j candy, 328. 
 ' frost bitten,, 403. 
 
448 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Fruit, green, to preserve or 
 pickle, 338. 
 preserve, to, 338: 
 and vegetables, frost- 
 bitten, 403. 
 Frying-pan, xx. 
 Furniture polish, 403. 
 
 G. 
 
 Galantine of veal, 90. 
 Game, 142. 
 
 black-cock, roasted, 
 
 145. 
 capon or fowl, to force, 
 
 as turkey, 153. 
 cutlets of, 154. 
 fawn, to dress, 144. 
 grouse, 146. 
 hares, 146. 
 
 fillets of, 148. 
 
 hashed, 147. -^ • 
 
 jugged, 146. 
 
 pie, 244. 
 
 potted, 148, 234. 
 
 salmi of, 153. 
 
 senit of, 148. 
 
 soup, 47. 
 
 stuffing for, 1 46. 
 kid, to dress, 144. 
 leverets, 148. 
 moorgame, 146. 
 ortolan, 148. 
 
 English, 151. 
 partridges, 145. ,3; 
 
 boiled, 145. 
 
 broiled, 145. 
 
 pie, 247. 
 
 soup, 48. 
 
 stewed, 145. 'J' 
 pheasants, 144. 
 
 boiled, 144. 
 plovers, 151. 
 pudding, 254. 
 rabbits, 152. 
 
 a la Franc aise, 153. 
 
 boiled, 152. 
 
 dressed, 153. 
 
 fricassee, 153. 
 
 roast, 152. 
 
 with onions, 153. 
 ruffs and reeves, 151. 
 snipes, 152. 
 woodcocks, 152. 
 venison, 142. 
 
 to dress, 143. 
 
 hash, 143. 
 
 neck of, 144, 
 
 shoulder of, 143. 
 Garlic,, 198. 
 sauce, 198. 
 
 Garnishing, omelets of eggs 
 for, 284. 
 
 Gas-cooking apparatus, 
 
 XXV. 
 
 Gateau, Dauphin, 24. 
 
 of rice, 275. 
 Gateau, Neapolitan, 274. 
 Gendarme, omelet a la, 
 
 284. 
 Genoese paste, 239, ' 
 Genoises, 365. 
 Gherkins for salads or 
 pickles, 339. 
 pickled, 352. 
 preserved wet, 339.] 
 Giblet pie, 243. 
 soup, 46. 
 
 turkey a la bour- 
 geoise, 131. 
 Ginger beer, 404. 
 candied, 339. 
 cream, ice, 309. 
 preserved, 338. 
 wine, 383. 
 Glacee omelet, 284. 
 Glossary of foreign terms 
 used in cookery, 
 408. 
 Good plum cake, 366. 
 Goose, green, 131. 
 old or young, 131. 
 pie, 244. 
 pies, Staffordshire, 
 
 253. 
 to roast, 131. 
 Gooseberry cakes, 364. 
 cream, 305. 
 fool, 307. 
 jam, 340. 
 pie, 243. 
 pudding, 259. 
 sauce, 198. 
 tart, green, 270. 
 Gooseberries as jam, 340. 
 preserved, 339. 
 ripe, compote of, 
 340. 
 to keep, 340. 
 wine, 383. 
 Gratin, 209. 
 Grape tart, 270. 
 Grapes, green, to preserve, 
 340. 
 pickled, 352. 
 preserved in clusters, 
 
 340. 
 wine, 383. 
 Gravy, beef, 37. 
 clear, 37. 
 
 for fowl, when there is 
 no meat /or it, 
 136. 
 
 Gravy soup, 37, 38. - 
 
 veal, 38. 
 'Green apricots, to preserve, 
 
 328. 
 Green-coloured sugar, 327. 
 Greengages, 341. 
 
 brandy in, 341. 
 
 candy to, 341. 
 
 compote of, 341. 
 
 dried, 341. 
 
 jam, 341. 
 Ground rice pudding, 265. 
 Grouse, 146. 
 
 to roast, 146. 
 Gruyere cheese, 290. 
 Guinea fowl, 137. 
 Gum paste, 239. 
 
 mould, xxi. 
 Gurnet or gurnard, 166. \ 
 
 H. 
 
 Haddocks, 167. 
 
 boil, 168. 
 
 bake, 168. 
 
 Finnon, to cure, 167. 
 
 dress, to, 197. 
 
 dress dried, 167. 
 
 dry, to, 167. 
 Haddock, soup, 52. 
 
 stew, 167. 
 Haggis, Scotch, 1 04, 
 Halibut, 167. 
 
 stewed, 167. 
 Hams, 123. 
 
 to bake, 123. 
 
 boiled, 122. 
 
 braise, 124. 
 
 in the French 
 fashion, 124. 
 
 cure, 122, 123. 
 
 rashers or slices, 124. 
 
 sauce, 198. 
 Hard dumplings, 267. 
 
 water to render soft, 
 404 
 Hares, 146. 
 
 fillets of 148. 
 
 hashed, 147. 
 
 jugged, 146, 147. 
 
 leverets, 148. 
 
 pie, 244. 
 
 potted, 148, 234. 
 
 salmi of, 1 53. 
 
 senit of, 148. 
 
 soup, 47. 
 
 stuffing for, 146. 
 Haricot, mutton, 102. 
 
 veal, 90. 
 Harvey sauce, 205. 
 Hashed mutton, 102. 
 
EJDEX. 
 
 449 
 
 Hasty cream, 305. 
 Hedgehog, 260. 
 Herb soup, 57. 
 
 sauce, 198. 
 
 for drying, 404. 
 
 to keep, xxvi. 
 Herrings, 168. 
 
 fresh, baked, 168. 
 boiled, 169. 
 broiled, 169. 
 fried, 169. 
 pickle, 353. 
 pot, 169. 
 Heron pie, 244. 
 Hessian soup, 40. 
 Hints to cooks, important, 
 
 xxv. 
 Hippocras, 388. 
 
 red, 388. 
 
 white, 388. 
 Honey, to clarify, 404. 
 Home-made wines, 378. 
 
 apricot, 379. 
 
 balm, 379. 
 
 barley, 379. 
 
 birch, 379. 
 
 blackberry, 380. 
 
 cherry, 380. 
 
 chocolate, 380. 
 
 claret, artificial, 380. 
 
 clary, 380. 
 
 cowslip, 381. 
 
 currant, 381. 
 
 red or white, 381. 
 
 cvpress, to imitate, 
 382. 
 
 damson, 382. 
 
 elder, 382. 
 another, 382. 
 
 elder flower wine, 
 382. 
 
 ginger, 383. 
 
 gooseberry, 383. 
 
 grape, 383. 
 
 mountain, 384. 
 
 mulberry, 384. 
 
 orange, 384. 
 
 parsnip, 384. 
 
 raisin, 384. 
 
 raspberry, 385. 
 
 walnut, 385. 
 Hops, 399. 
 Horseradish, 198. 
 
 sauces 198, 199. 
 Hot blancmange, 323. 
 Hot plate, xxiii. 
 
 water apparatus, xxii., 
 xxvi. 
 
 water to make coffee, 
 373. 
 Hotch-potch, 57< 
 Hung beef, 69. j 
 
 Hunter's beef, 68. 
 
 Ices, 307. 
 
 cedrat, 310. 
 water, 310. 
 
 cherry, 310. 
 
 currant, 309. 
 fresh water, 311. 
 
 currants to, 310. 
 
 ginger cream, 309. 
 Ice for iceing, 308. 
 
 tea, 377. 
 
 mould, xiv. 
 
 puddings, 260. 
 
 with marmalade, 260. 
 
 orange water, 311. 
 
 pine apple cream, 309. 
 
 red currant water, 
 311. 
 
 Vanilla cream, 310. 
 
 water generally, 311. 
 
 water, black currant, 
 309. 
 white currant, 311. 
 
 safe, or refrigerator, 
 xvi. 
 Iceing for cakes, 308. 
 
 tarts, 309. 
 India pickle, 353. 
 Indian pilau, 136. 
 In haste, pudding, 264. 
 Ink spots, to remove, 405. 
 Irish stew, 103. 
 Isinglass, to clarifv, 404, 
 
 405. 
 Italian cream, 305. 
 
 soup, 42. 
 Italienne, 57. 
 
 pancakes a la, 278. 
 
 salads, 205, 207, 
 
 sauce, 1S9. 
 
 J. 
 
 Jack, to choose, 176. 
 Jam, black currant, 335. 
 
 currants generally, 
 335. 
 Jam, cherry, 334, 335. 
 
 gooseberry, 340. 
 
 gooseberries as, 341. 
 
 greengage, 341. 
 Jam, mixed for tarts or 
 tartlets, 275. 
 
 raspberry, 346. 
 
 strawberry, 347. 
 Jargonelle pears, 345. 
 Jaune d'ceuf, coffee au, 37 5 . 
 G G 
 
 Jellies, 312. 
 
 apple, 313. 
 
 another way, 313. 
 
 apricots, 314. 
 
 apricots in, 313. 
 
 aspic, 312. 
 
 barberry, 314. 
 
 calves' foot, 314. 
 
 cherry, 316. 
 
 clear, 315. 
 
 clear apple, 312. 
 
 coffee, 376. 
 
 colouring for, 314. 
 
 currant, 315. 
 black, 315. 
 red, 315. 
 
 red or white, 315. 
 white, 315. 
 
 damson, 316. 
 
 for entremets, 316. 
 
 lemon, 317. 
 
 mosaic, 317. 
 
 orange, 317. 
 
 pint mould of, 318. 
 
 raspberry, 318. 
 
 red apples in, 313. 
 
 rose, 318. 
 
 rum, 319. 
 
 savoury, to put over 
 cold pies, 317. 
 
 to cover cold fish, 
 317. 
 
 to keep, 316. 
 Jelly bag, xx. 
 
 mould, xxi. 
 John dory, 164. 
 Julienne soup, 58. 
 
 Kebobbed mutton, 104. 
 Ketchup, mushroom, 354. 
 
 tomato, 355. 
 
 walnut, 356. 
 Knife-board, useful, 407. 
 Kid, to dress, 144. 
 Kidneys, 72. 
 
 rognon de boeuf 
 superbe fried, 
 72. 
 
 stewed, 73. 
 
 mutton broiled, 105. 
 Kirschen wasser, 388. 
 
 I. 
 
 Lard, 124. 
 Larding-knife, xix. 
 
 pin, xviii. 
 Lamb, 107. 
 
450 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Lamb, blanquette d'ag- 
 ncau, 109. 
 breast of, to stew, 
 
 109. 
 cbevaux de fiise, 109. 
 with sweet- 
 
 breads, 109. 
 chops, 109. 
 fore-quarter of, 107. 
 head and emuicees, 
 
 111. 
 leg of, 108. 
 kg of, to bo3, 107. 
 
 to roast, 107. 
 loin, to grill, 108. 
 ' to stew, 108. 
 pasty, 272. 
 pie, 244, 245. 
 saddle of, 107. 
 sauce, 199. 
 shoulder of, 108. 
 forced and 
 
 braised, 108. 
 larded, 108. 
 soup, 45. 
 tail soup, 44. 
 sweetbreads, 110. 
 another way, 1 1 0. 
 as cutlets. 111. 
 crumbed au gratin, 
 
 111. 
 cutlets glazed, 111. 
 fricasseed, brown, 
 
 110. 
 fticasse'ed, white, 
 
 110. 
 larded a la daube, 
 
 110. 
 larded with bacon, 
 
 111. 
 roast, 111. 
 sweetbreads, stewed 
 (ris de veau), 
 110. 
 with truffles, 111. 
 trotters, 112. 
 Lampreys, 166. 
 Larks, 140. 
 
 to roast, 141. 
 raised pie, 245. 
 Leek (Scotch) soup, 58. 
 Lemonade, 388. 
 Lemon cake, 365. 
 cheesecakes, 363. 
 custard, 343. 
 green, preserved, 342. 
 ice cream, 305. 
 ice pudding, 261. 
 jelly, 317. 
 juice, to keep, 342. 
 mince pies, 245. 
 Lemons, pickled, 342. 
 
 Lemons, to keep, for pre- 
 serving, 343. 
 Lemon pudding, 261. 
 
 sauce, 199. 
 
 water ice, 311. 
 Lettuces, 229. 
 Linen, to perfume, 405. 
 Lintels, 200. 
 Liver sauce, 1 99. 
 
 and parsley sauce. 
 200. 
 Liqueurs, 386. 
 Lobsters, 169. 
 
 butter, 170. 
 
 curried, 170. 
 
 gratin of, 170. 
 
 prawns or cray-fish, 
 asno.520,p.l63. 
 
 puree of, 53. 
 
 potted, 234. 
 
 roast, 170. 
 
 sauce, 200. 
 
 served, 169. 
 
 soup, 53. 
 
 stewed, 170, 
 
 M. 
 
 Macaroni, 299. 
 
 brown, 299. 
 
 cheese, 295. 
 
 pudding, 261. 
 
 soup, 39. 
 
 timbale of, 299. 
 Macaroons, 365, 366. 
 
 spiced, 366. 
 Mackarel, 171. 
 
 bake, 171. 
 
 boil, 171. 
 
 broil, 171. 
 
 bones, broiled, 172. 
 
 fillets of, 172. 
 boiled, 173. 
 Mackarel, fried a la Fran- 
 caise, 173. 
 
 a la imaitre d'hotel, 
 173. 
 
 pie, 171. 
 
 stewed, 173. 
 Madeira sauce, 209. 
 Magnum bonum plums, 
 
 341. 
 Mattre d'hdtel, a la- 
 beans, 217. 
 
 call's head, 93. 
 
 eggs, 282. 
 dish of, 282. . 
 
 mackarel, 173. 
 
 potatoes, 225. 
 
 sauce, 200. 
 
 Maitre d'hdtel, a la — 
 
 soles, 182. 
 
 sturgeon, 185. 
 
 vegetables, 217. 
 Malt, 399. 
 Maraschino, 388. 
 Marble, iron spots on, 
 
 405. 
 Marigold cheese, 294. 
 Marinade, fish, 157. 
 Marking ink, to extract, 
 
 402. 
 Marmalades. 319. 
 
 apple, 319, 320. 
 petits gateaux, 320. 
 
 apricot, 320. 
 petits gateaux-fou- 
 res, 320. 
 
 barberry, 321. 
 
 cherry, 321. 
 
 currant, 321. 
 
 orange, 321. 
 
 quince, 322. 
 
 raspberry, 322. 
 
 transparent, 319. 
 Marrow bones, 81. 
 
 baked, 81. 
 
 patties, 273. 
 
 pudding, 261, 
 baked, 261. 
 Mashed potato fork, xiv. 
 Mead, 389. 
 
 frontiniac, 389. 
 
 sack, 389. 
 Meat and fowls, 362. 
 
 patties, 273. 
 
 screen, xx. 
 
 soups, 35 to 46. 
 Meats, to choose, 30. 
 
 observations on, 63. 
 
 roast, 63. 
 Melted butter without boil- 
 ing, 288. 
 Meringues, 277. 
 
 apple, 277. 
 
 to make, 276. 
 Metal strainer, xviii. , 
 Milk or cream, substitute 
 
 for, 406. 
 Milk coffee, 374. 
 
 punch, 390. 
 
 soup, 54. 
 Millet pudding, 262, 
 Mince meat, 245, 246. 
 
 pie, 247. 
 
 without meat, 247. 
 
 veal, 91. 
 Mincing knife, xix. 
 Mint sauce, 200. 
 Mirabilis, nqua, 386. 
 Miscellaneous < . receipts, 
 '401. ,"" 
 
INDEX. 
 
 451 
 
 Miscellaneous receipts — 
 beer, cloudy, to fine, 
 
 403. 
 beer, stale, to restore, 
 
 406. 
 blacking, 401. 
 cleaning cane chair 
 bottoms, 401. 
 decanters, 401. 
 floor-cloths, 401. 
 pavements, 405. 
 sponges, 402. 
 silk stockings, 402. 
 turkey carpets, 402. 
 water casks, 402. 
 eggs, to preserve, 405. 
 fire, economical use 
 
 of, 403. 
 to extinguish, 403. 
 frost-bitten fruits, or 
 vegetables, 403. 
 furniture polish, 403. 
 ginger beer, to make, 
 
 404. 
 grease spots, to ex- 
 tract from silk, 
 406. 
 muslins, 406. 
 hard water, to make 
 
 soft, 404. 
 herbs, for drying, 404. 
 honey, to clarify, 404. 
 isinglass, to clarify, 
 
 404, 405. 
 iron spots on marble, 
 
 405. 
 ink spots, to remove, 
 
 405. 
 linen, to perfume, 
 
 405. 
 
 marking ink, to ex- 
 tract, 402. 
 milk or cream, sub- 
 stitute for, 406. 
 milk, to take from 
 
 cream, 406. 
 nettles, utility of, 407. 
 nutmeg, economical 
 
 use of, 403. 
 offensive smells, to 
 
 cure, 405. 
 rats and mice, 406. 
 rice milk, 406. 
 sago, substitute for, 
 
 406. 
 silk, to take stains 
 
 out of, 406. 
 useful knife board, 
 
 407. 
 whiting or chalk, to 
 detect in flour, 
 402. ! 
 
 Moor game, 146. 
 Morels, 231. 
 
 as gravy, 231. 
 keep, 231. 
 Mortar and pestle, xiii. 
 Mosaic jelly, 317. 
 Mountain wine, 384. 
 Muffin pudding, 262. 
 
 with dried cherries, 
 262. 
 Mulberry wine, 384. _ 
 Mullet, grey, 174» 
 
 red, 174. 
 Mulligatawney soup, 43. 
 Indian method, 43. 
 Mushrooms, 353. 
 broiled, 229. 
 ketchup, 354, 
 mould, xix. 
 pickled, 354. 
 white, 354. 
 sauce, white, 201. 
 
 brown, 201. 
 al'Espagnole, 201. 
 Mussel soup, 53. 
 Mustard sauce, 201. 
 Mutton, 97. 
 
 blanquette de mou- 
 
 ton, 102. 
 breast of, 99. 
 
 crumbed or gratin, 
 99. 
 broth, 45. 
 chops, 100. 
 
 as beef steaks, 100. 
 broiled, 100. 
 fried, 100. 
 China chilo, 103. 
 
 another way, 103. 
 cutlets, 100. 
 another way, 100. 
 braised, 100. 
 butter in, 100. 
 Maintenon, 100. 
 saute, 100. 
 fillets of, 101. 
 
 in marinade, 102, 
 stewed, 101. 
 haunch of, 47. 
 haricot of, 102. 
 
 another way, 102. 
 hash, 102. 
 hashed, 102. 
 
 another way, 103. 
 haggis, scotch, 104. 
 hams, to dress, 105. 
 Irish stew, 103. 
 kebobbed, 104. 
 lddneys, broiled, 105. 
 leg of boiled, 98. 
 boned and stuffed, 
 98. 
 G G 2 
 
 Mutton, leg of, braised, 98. 
 roasted, 97. 
 another way, 97. 
 which has been cut, 
 to send to table 
 neatly, 98. 
 loin of, roasted, 99. 
 steaks from, 99. 
 stewed, 99. 
 like venison, 105. 
 neck of, 99 . 
 pasty, like venison, 
 
 105. 
 pie, 247. 
 
 pie mele, raised, 247. 
 pudding, 262. 
 rissoles of, 104. 
 rognon de mouton a 
 la bourgeoisie, 
 105. 
 a la Francaise, 1 04. 
 saddle of, 97. 
 shoulder of, 99. 
 sheep's tongues, 106. 
 steaks, 99. 
 stew, Irish, 106. 
 venison as, 104. 
 
 N. 
 
 pickle, 
 
 Nasturtiums, to 
 
 354. 
 
 Neapolitan gateau, 274. 
 Neat's tongue pickled, 354. 
 Nectarines, to keep, 343. 
 
 to preserve, 343. 
 Nettles, 407. 
 Noix de veau, 91. 
 Norfolk dumplings, 267. 
 North Wiltshire cheese, 
 
 289. 
 Noyean, 389. 
 Nutmeg, economical use 
 
 of, 403. 
 
 Oatmeal puddings, 262. 
 Observations on cleaning 
 and dressing fish, 
 155. 
 pies, 237. 
 vegetables, 212. 
 Old English plumpuddin 
 
 263. 
 Olives of beef, 67. 
 
 veal, 90. 
 Omelets and eggs; 282 
 
452 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Omelet, 283. 
 
 a la celestine, 283. 
 
 a la cre^me, 284. 
 
 a la gendarme, 284. 
 
 au naturel, 284. 
 
 fritters, 284, 
 
 glacee, 284. 
 
 onion, 284, 28S. 
 
 of eggs, for garnishing, 
 284. 
 
 pan, xix. 
 
 plain, sweet, 286. 
 
 Savoy, 285. 
 
 souffle, 285, 286. 
 in a mould, 285. 
 stuffed, 285. 
 Onions, omelet, 284, 285. 
 
 pickled, 355. 
 
 pickle, to, 354. 
 
 Parmesan cheese, 
 with, 295. 
 
 sauce, 202. 
 
 sauce, brown, 202. 
 
 soup, 58. 
 Orange biscuits, 362. 
 
 cheesecakes, 364. 
 
 custards, 303. 
 
 fritters, 280. 
 
 gravy, 202. 
 
 in jelly, 344. 
 
 jelly, 317. 
 
 lemons, or to keep for 
 puddings, 344. 
 
 marmalade, 321. 
 
 peel, to preserve, 344. 
 
 preserve, to, 344. 
 with marmalade, 
 323. 
 
 pudding, 262. 
 
 sauce, 201. 
 bitter, 202. 
 
 souffle", 287. 
 
 tarts, 270. 
 
 water ice, 311. 
 
 wine, 384. 
 Orangeade, 390. 
 Ortolan, 148. 
 
 to roast, 151. 
 
 English, 151. 
 Oven and hot closet, xxiii. 
 Oxford range, xxiii. 
 Ox-tail soup, 38. 
 
 another way, 38. 
 
 tails, 76. 
 
 haricot of, 76. 
 
 cheek, stew, 78. 
 Oysters, 174, 
 
 a l'imperiale, 175. 
 
 fritters, 175, 280. 
 
 patties, 273. 
 
 pie, 175. 
 
 roast, 175. 
 
 Oyster sauce, 203. 
 
 for beefsteaks, 202. 
 
 for entries, 200. 
 scalloped, 175. 
 soup, 53. 
 stewed, 175. 
 
 P. 
 
 Pain de veau, 91. ' 
 Palates^f beef, 72. 
 Palestine soup, 55. 
 Pancakes; 278. 
 
 a. la Fran9aise, 278. 
 
 a l'ltalienne, 278. 
 
 cream, 278. 
 
 rice, 278. 
 Farfait amour, 390. 
 
 coffee, 376. 
 Parisian souffle of straw- 
 berries, 347. 
 Parisienne, custard a la, 
 
 302. 
 Parmesan cheese with 
 onions, 295. 
 
 fritters, 280. 
 Parsley, sauce, 203. 
 Parsnip wine, 284. 
 Partridges, .145. 
 
 boiled, 145. 
 
 broiled, 145. 
 
 pie, 247. 
 
 potted, 235. 
 
 stewed, 145. 
 
 soup, 48. - 
 Paste, 238. 
 
 'Borders, 239. 
 
 cheese, 295. 
 
 dumpling, 267. 
 
 Genoese, 239. 
 
 gum, 239. ""• 
 
 gum dragon, 239. 
 
 puff, 238. 
 
 raised crust, 238. 
 
 second course paste, 
 239. 
 
 stewed beef, or soups, 
 paste for, 272. 
 
 sweet, or biscuit crust, 
 240. 
 
 cutter, xxi. 
 Pastry, 237. 
 
 dish of French, 276. 
 
 fancy, 240. 
 
 sandwich, 240. 
 Pasty, 272. 
 
 lamb, 272. 
 
 mutton, like venison, 
 272. 
 Patties, fish, 273. 
 
 marrow, 273. 
 
 Patties, meat, 273. 
 
 oyster, 273. 
 Pavements, mixture for 
 
 cleaning, 405. 
 Pears, baked, 344. 
 
 Jargonelle, 345. 
 
 tart, 270. 
 
 to keep, 345. 
 Peas, a la Frangaise, 224. 
 
 green, 223. 
 soup, 59. 
 dried, soup, 59. 
 
 pudding, 262. 
 
 stewed, 224. 
 in cream, 225. 
 
 soup, 58. 
 
 another way, 58. 
 
 soup, clear, 59. 
 Pepper-pot, 59. 
 Perch, 162. 
 Perigord pie, 258. 
 Pheasants, 144. 
 
 boiled, 144. 
 Philosophy of cookery, 1. 
 Pickle, apple codlings, 349 . 
 
 for beef, 69. 
 
 for gherkins, 339. 
 
 for tongues, 356. 
 
 green almond, 349. 
 
 purple, 351. 
 Pickled artichokes, 350. 
 
 asparagus, 350. 
 
 cabbage,- 350. 
 purple, 351. 
 red, 351. 
 white, 351. 
 
 celery, 251. 
 
 cucumbers and onions. 
 351. 
 
 elder buds, 352. 
 
 French beans, 350.' 
 
 gherkins, 352. 
 
 grapes, 362. 
 
 herrings, 353. 
 
 India, 353. 
 
 lemon, 342. 
 
 mushrooms, 354. 
 white, 354. 
 
 nasturtiums, 354. 
 
 neat's tongue, 354. 
 Pickled onions, 354, 355. 
 
 plums like olives, 355. 
 
 quince, 355. 
 
 samphire, 355. 
 
 tongue, 356. 
 
 walnuts, 356, 357. 
 
 youngcucumbers,35 1. 
 Pickles, 349. 
 Pickling, rules of, 349. 
 
 green fruit, 349. 
 Pies, 240. 
 
 apricot, 240. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 453 
 
 Pies,beef-Bteak, 240, 241. 
 pies raised with 
 truffles, 241. 
 calfs head, 241. 
 chicken, 241. 
 cold meat, or chicken, 
 241. 
 savoury jelly for, 
 317. 
 duck, 242. 
 eel, 242. 
 eggs, 242. 
 
 mince, 242. 
 fish, 243. 
 fruit, to neutralize 
 
 acids in, 272. 
 game, 243. 
 giblet, 243. 
 gooseberry, 243. 
 green goose, 244. 
 hare, 244. 
 heron, 244. 
 Iamb, 244, 245. 
 lark a la Pithiviers 
 244. 
 raised, 245. 
 lemon, mince, 245. 
 mince meat, 245. 
 pies, without meat, 
 247. 
 mutton, 247. 
 
 mele raised, 247. 
 partridge or pigeon, 
 247. 
 simple, 247. 
 perigord, 248. 
 pigeon, 248. 
 
 hot, raised, Anglo- 
 Francaise, 249. 
 Monglas, 249. 
 a la finaneiere, 
 
 250. 
 Russian, 250. 
 to be served hot, 
 250. 
 pork, 250. 
 to eat cold, 251. 
 raised, 251. 
 pheasant pie, hot, 25 1 . 
 rabbit, 252. 
 snipe, 252. 
 sole, 252. 
 squab, 253. 
 Staffordshire goose, 
 
 252. 
 tench, 253. 
 veal or chicken and 
 parsley, 253. 
 olive, 253. 
 in a dish, 254. 
 Pig collared, 120. 
 
 sucking, to roast, 113. 
 
 Pig's face, 116. 
 feet, 121. 
 
 head, collared, 120. 
 Pigeons, 138. 
 
 aspic jell v, 140. 
 broiled, 138. 
 compote of, 139. 
 chesnut stuffing for, 
 
 140. 
 fillets of, 139. 
 in jelly, 139. 
 larded, 139. 
 pie, 248. 
 pot to, 140, 235. 
 roasted, 138. 
 soup, 48. 
 stewed, 138. 
 as woodcocks, 138. 
 wood, 140. 
 Pike, 176. 
 
 baked, 176. 
 boiled, 170. 
 to choose, 176. 
 Pine apple cream, 306. 
 
 ice, 309. 
 Pint mould of orange jelly, 
 
 318. 
 Plaice, 177. 
 Plain custard, 302. 
 Plovers' eggs, 282. 
 Plum buns, 370. 
 Plums, candied, 345. 
 preserved dry, 345. 
 to pickle like olives, 
 355. 
 Plum pudding, 262, 263, 
 264. 
 French, dreadful turn 
 
 out, 435. 
 sauce, 263. 
 Pork, 113. 
 
 boiled, of all kinds', 
 
 116. 
 cheeks, 116. 
 cheese, 295. 
 
 Italian, 296. 
 chine of, 115, 116. 
 chops, 116. 
 cochon de lait, en 
 blanquette, 121. 
 cutlets, 116. 
 face for breakfast, 
 
 116. 
 feet dried, 121. 
 stewed, 121. 
 fillet to resemble veal, 
 
 115. 
 fresh sauce, 197. 
 griskin of, 122. 
 hams, 122. 
 harslet, 121. 
 head, baked, 120. 
 
 Pork, head, boiled, 120. 
 to collar, 120. 
 lard, to melt, 122. 
 leg of, boiled, 114. 
 
 roasted, 114. 
 loin of, 115. 
 neck of, rolled, 115. 
 pettitoes, 120. 
 pickled, 116. 
 pies, 250, 251. 
 pudding, black, 121. 
 white, 121, 
 black and white, 
 122. 
 roasted, of all kinds, 
 
 116. 
 sausages, 117, 118. 
 another way, 119. 
 different way, 119. 
 al'Espagnole, 118. 
 aux chataignes, 
 
 119. 
 spiced, 119. 
 university receipt, 
 
 118. 
 white, 119. 
 spare rib of, 115. 
 
 to roast, 115. 
 sucking pig to roast, 
 113. 
 pig to roast, 114. 
 to scald, 114. 
 tongues, 123. 
 Portable soup, 41. 
 
 white, 41. 
 Porter, 395. 
 Potage ii la reine, 51. 
 Potato steamer and cover, 
 
 xv. 
 Potatoes, si la maitre d 'ho- 
 tel, 225. 
 a la creme, 226. 
 balls, 227. 
 broiled, 226. 
 fried, 226. 
 glazed, 226. 
 mash, 227. 
 new, to boil, 225. 
 pudding, 264. 
 puree of, 227. 
 ragoGt, 226. 
 rissoles, 226. 
 roasted, 225. 
 souffle, 226. 
 soup, 60. 
 Potted cheese, 291. 
 meats, 233. 
 beef, 83, 233. 
 bird, 234. 
 char, 234. 
 cheese, 234. 
 chicken and ham, 234. 
 
454 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Potted game of all kinds, 
 234. 
 hare, 148. 
 lobsters, 234. 
 partridge, 235. 
 pigeon, 235. 
 shrimps, 235. 
 smelts, 235. 
 veal, 90, 235, 236. 
 venison, 236. 
 woodcocks, 236. 
 Founded cheese, 295. 
 Poultry, 128. 
 Wane, 136. 
 bone birds, 129. 
 chickens boiled, 136. 
 braised, 137. 
 curried, 137. 
 to choose, 31. 
 cutlets of, 137. 
 fried a la Malabar, 
 
 137. 
 pulled, 137. 
 chopper, xix. 
 ducks, to boil, 132. 
 to hash, 132. 
 roast, 131. 
 stew, 132. 
 stewed, 132. 
 wild, 133. 
 fowls a la bechamel, 
 135. 
 a la provencal, 
 
 135. 
 boiled, 133. 
 broiled, 134. 
 cold, 133. 
 fricassee of, 133. 
 gravy for, 136. 
 Guinea, roasted, 
 
 135. 
 grill, cold, 134. 
 hashed, 134. 
 roast, 133. 
 with truffles, 134. 
 goose, a green, 131. 
 to roast, 131. 
 young or old, 131. 
 Indian pilau, 136. 
 larks, 140. 
 
 to roast, 141. 
 pigeons, in aspic 
 jelly, 140. 
 broiled, 138. 
 chesnut stuffing for, 
 
 140. 
 compdte of, 139. 
 fillets of, 139. 
 in jelly, 139. 
 larded and braised, 
 
 139. 
 roasted, 138. 
 
 Poultry, pigeons, 'stewed, 
 138. 
 to pot, 140. ! 
 soups of, 46. 
 turkey a laroyale, 138. 
 boiled, 129. 
 broiled, 130. , 
 forced, 130, 
 
 with tongue, 130. 
 giblets a la bour- 
 
 geoise, 131 
 hashed, 130. 
 roast, 129. 
 with sausage meat 
 and tongue, 130. 
 Pound cake, 366. 
 
 plum, or plain, 366. 
 Prawns, 176. 
 to boil, 177. 
 to serve, 177. 
 Preface, v. 
 
 Prefatory remarks, ix. 
 Preserves, fruits, 334. 
 
 barberries in bunches, 
 
 332. 
 biscuit of fruits or 
 sweetmeats, 332. 
 currants, 335. 
 dry, 335 
 for tarts, 335. 
 garden beans, 332. 
 gherkins, wet, 339. 
 ginger, 338. 
 gooseberries, 339. 
 green fruits, 338. 
 
 lemons, 342. 
 liquid citron, 336. 
 quinces, 346. 
 raspberries, 346. 
 rhubarb, 347. 
 samphire, 347. 
 white citron, 336. 
 Puddings, 254. 
 almond, 254. 
 amber, 254. 
 apricot, 255. 
 barley, 255. 
 batter, 250. 
 beef steak, 255. 
 black, 121. 
 biscuit, 255. 
 brandy 256. 
 bread, 256. 
 
 and butter, 256. 
 brown, 256. 
 cabinet, 256, 257. 
 carrot, 259. 
 cherry, 258, 259. 
 citron, 258. 
 curd, 259. 
 currant, 258. 
 custard, 257. 
 
 Pudding, damson, 259. 
 Derbyshire, 264. 
 fowl a lareine, 259. 
 fruits to neutralize 
 
 acids in, 272. 
 game, 254. 
 gooseberry, 259. 
 ice, 260. 
 
 different, 200. 
 lemon, 261. 
 with marmalade, 
 260. 
 in haste, 264. 
 lemon, 261. 
 macaroni, 261. 
 marrow, 261. 
 baked, 261. 
 millet, 260. 
 muffin, with dried 
 
 cherries, 261. 
 mutton, 262. 
 oatmeal, 262. 
 orange, 262. 
 peas, 262. 
 plum, 262,264. 
 first-rate, 262. 
 old English Ch list - 
 mas, 262. 
 potato, 264. 
 quaking, 264. 
 quince, 264. 
 rice, boiled, 265 . 
 ground, 265. 
 with currants, 265 . 
 fruit, 265. 
 sago, 265. 
 sippet, 265. 
 suet, 265, 266. 
 sweetmeat, 266. 
 tapioca, 266. 
 treacle, 266. 
 vermicelli, 266. 
 white puddings, 127. 
 
 and black, 122. 
 Yorkshire, 266. 
 Puffs, 274. 
 
 apricot, 274. 
 Chinese, 275. 
 curd, 275. 
 of cheese, 295. 
 of any kind, 274. 
 Puits d'amour, 274. 
 Punch, 390. 
 milk, 390. 
 
 rum milk for turtle 
 soup, 390. 
 Puree presser, xxii. 
 Purees, 203. 
 
 cucumber sauce, 203. 
 of onions, 203. 
 Purity of water, 11. 
 Purl, 399. ; 
 
INDEX. 
 
 455 
 
 Quaking pudding, 260. 
 Quenelles, 54. 
 
 soups of all kinds, 54. 
 Quince cakes, 367. 
 
 marmalade, 322. 
 
 pudding, 264. 
 
 tart, 270. 
 
 to pickle, 355. 
 Quinces, 345. 
 
 preserved, 346. 
 
 to keep, 346. 
 
 R. 
 
 Rabbits, 152. 
 
 a la Francaise, 153. 
 boiled, 152. 
 dressed, 153. 
 fricassee, 153. 
 fried, 153. 
 pie, 252. 
 roasted, 152. 
 with onions, 153. 
 Raised crust for pies, 238. 
 pie hot, Anglo-Fran- 
 
 caise, 249. 
 a la Monglas, 249. 
 a la financiere, 250. 
 pheasant, 251. 
 Russian, 250. 
 served hot, 250. 
 pie, 251. 
 Raisin wine, 384. 
 Ramequins, 300. 
 Ranges, stoves, hot water 
 apparatus, &c, 
 xxii., xxvi. 
 Range, close, &e., xxiv. 
 family (Benham's im- 
 proved), xxiii. 
 Oxford, xxiii. 
 Raspberries, preserved,346. 
 
 to keep, 346. 
 Raspberry cakes, 367. 
 dumpling, 268. 
 jam, 322. 
 jelly, 318. 
 marmalade, 322. 
 tart, 270. 
 with cream, 270. 
 currant cream, 306. 
 vinegar syrup, 318. 
 wine, 385. 
 Ratafia, without sugar or 
 
 syrup, 318. 
 Ratafias, 369. 
 
 of four fruits, 391. 
 of seeds, 391. 
 R?d apples, in jelly, 313. 
 
 Red ■currant water ice, 3 1 1 . 
 Refrigerator, xvi. 
 Requisite information for 
 making and bak- 
 ing cakes, 358. 
 Remove dishes, 409. 
 Removes, fish, 156. 
 Remoulade, 203. 
 Rhenish cream, 306. 
 Red hippocras, 388. 
 Revolving gridiron, xx. 
 Rhubarb, preserve, 347. 
 
 tart, 271. 
 Rice, apples in, 277. 
 blancmanije, 322. 
 cakes, 367. 
 casseroles of, 277. 
 cheese, 296. 
 croquettes of, 276. 
 custards without 
 
 cream, 303. 
 gateau of, 275. 
 milk, 406. 
 pancakes, 278. 
 pound cakes, 367. 
 pudding, 265. 
 
 with currants, 265. 
 with fruit, 265. 
 soup, 60. 
 Rissoles, 104. 
 
 of all kinds, 2 10. 
 Roast beef, 65. 
 fillet, 66. 
 beefsteak, 71. 
 
 heart, 74. 
 cold, to fricassee, 77. 
 Roasted cheese for after 
 
 dinner, 296. 
 Robert sauce, '203, 205. 
 Rognon de mouton, 105. 
 Rose jelly, 318. 
 Rout cakes, 3C7. 
 Roux, 204. 
 
 white,'204. 
 Royale fritters, 281. 
 Royal harts, 260. 
 
 kitchen at Windsor 
 Castle, with illus- 
 tration, 434. 
 Ruffs and reeves, 151. 
 Rules to be observed in 
 
 pickling, 349. 
 Rum jelly, 319. 
 
 milk punch for turtle 
 soup, 390. 
 Rump 8teaks,plain broiled, 
 70. 
 stewed, 70. 
 
 ; S. 
 
 Sack, mead, 389. ' 
 
 Saddle of mutton skewer, 
 six. 
 
 Sago, 406. 
 
 cheese, 297. 
 chicken, 188. 
 pudding, 265. 
 soup, 39. 
 Salad, 232. 
 
 Parisian, 231. 
 Sydney Smith's re- 
 ceipt, 231. 
 Salads, fish, 188. 
 gherkins, 339. 
 Italian, 189. 
 lobster, 189. 
 
 in an Italian, 189. 
 same, 204. 
 Salmon, 177. 
 boil, 179.] 
 broil, 180. 
 dried, 180. 1 
 collared, 179. 
 crimped, a la creme, 
 
 178. 
 dressed, 177. 
 dry, to, 178. 
 en papillotes, 180. 
 pickle, to, 179. 
 pot, to, 179. 
 pudding, 181. 
 quenelles, 180. 
 roasted, 180. 
 stewed, 180. 
 Salamander, xxi. 
 Salsify, 228. 
 
 Samphire, to dry or pre" 
 serve, 347. 
 to pickle, 355. 
 Sandwich pastry, 240. 
 Saucepan digester, xv. 
 with loose earthen 
 lining, xvii. 
 lip, xvii. 
 Sauce, 192. 
 
 anchovy, 192. 
 
 au beure, 192. 
 apple, 192. 
 au bain marie, 193. 
 bechamel, 192. 
 
 another way, 1 93. 
 bread, 193. 
 brown, 193. 
 butter, burnt, 193. 
 
 for, 193. 
 calves' brains, with 
 different sauces, 
 195. 
 caper, & la Francaise, 
 
 194. 
 for fish, 194. 
 
 meat, 194, 
 to imitate, 194. 
 
456 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Muce, carp, 195. 
 celery, 1 95. 
 chervil, 195. 
 cod, 195. 
 
 court bouillon, 196. 
 < cream, 196. 
 cucumber, 196. 
 
 for cutlets, 196. 
 diable, 194. 
 Dutch, 197. 
 eel, 197. 
 egg, 197. 
 endive, 197. 
 fennel, 197. 
 fresh pork, 197- 
 garlic, 198. 
 gooseberry, 198. 
 grande, 194. 
 ham, 198. 
 herbs, 198. 
 horse radish, 198. 
 
 cold, 199. 
 Italian, 199. 
 lamb, 199. 
 liver, 199. 
 
 for boiled chickens, 
 199. 
 
 and parsley, 200. 
 lintels, 200. 
 lobster, 200. 
 
 anotherreceipt,'200. 
 maitre d'h6tel, 200. 
 mint, 200. 
 mushroom, 201. 
 
 al'Espagnole,201. 
 
 •white, 201. 
 
 and brown, 201. 
 mustard, 201. 
 onion, 202. 
 
 brown, 202. 
 orange, 201. 
 
 bitter, 202. 
 
 gravy, 202. 
 oyster, 202. 
 
 for beefsteaks, 203. 
 parsley, 203. 
 puree of cucumber, 
 203. 
 
 onions, 203. 
 remoulade, 203. 
 Robert, 203. 
 roux, 204. 
 
 white, 204. 
 salad, 204. 
 Sauces, a 1'Allemande, 
 204. 
 a la Madelaine, 204. 
 aux atelets, 204. , 
 Harvey, 205. 
 Italian, 205. 
 Italienne, 207. 
 mince, 205. 
 
 Sauces, piquante, 205. 
 Robert, 205. 
 Romaine, 205. 
 Spanish, 206. 
 supreme, 206. 
 sweet, 207- 
 universal, 207. 
 white, 207. 
 fish, 208. 
 shrimp, 208. 
 sorrel, 206. 
 souffle, 206. 
 spinach, 206. 
 superior for plum 
 
 pudding, 206. 
 tomato, 207. 
 
 a l'ltalienne, 208. 
 a la Franpaise, 208. 
 garniture of, 208. 
 tarragon, 206, 207. 
 truffle, 209. 
 turnip, 209. 
 venison, 209. 
 walnut ketchup for 
 
 fish, 209. 
 wine, Madeira, 209. 
 Sauer kraut and beef, 
 78. 
 another way, 78. 
 Saunder's beef, 78. 
 Sausages a l'Espagnole, 
 118. 
 aux chataignes, 119. 
 beef, 81. 
 pork, 117. 
 spiced, 119. 
 university receipt for, 
 
 118. 
 -white, 119. 
 Savoy biscuits, 362. 
 cake, 368. 
 omelet, 285. 
 Scales, xvii. 
 Scorzanera, 2281 
 Scotch dumpling, 267. 
 eggs, 283. 
 rabbits of toasted 
 
 cheese, 298. 
 short bread, 371. 
 Sea kale, 227. 
 
 stewed, 227. 
 Seasoning box, xx. 
 Seed buns, 370. 
 Seeds, ratafia of, 39 1 . 
 Seville oranges, to pre- 
 serve, 344. 
 Sheep's head broth, 45. 
 Shell fish, to choose, 32. 
 Sherbet, 391. 
 Shrimps, 185. 
 
 toast croute aux cre- 
 velles, 185. 
 
 Shrimps, a la reine Amelie, 
 
 185. 
 
 potted, 235. 
 
 sauce, 208. 
 
 Short crust, not sweet, 
 
 358, 359. 
 Shrub, 391. 
 Siberian crabs, to preserve, 
 
 347. 
 Silk stockings to clean, 
 
 402. 
 Silk, to take stains out of, 
 406. 
 grease spots from, 
 406. 
 Simple omelet, 286. 
 
 receipt for black tops, 
 333. 
 Single Gloucester cheese, 
 
 290. 
 Sippet pudding, 265. 
 Skate, 183. 
 
 crimped, 183. 
 Smelts, 185. 
 
 to bake, 185. 
 potted, 235. 
 Smoke-jacks, improved, 
 
 xxiii. 
 Snipes, 152. 
 
 pie, 252. 
 Soles, 181. 
 
 a la Portuguese, 182. 
 auplat, 182. 
 broiled, 181. 
 bread, crumbed, 181. 
 filletsof, in aspic, 183. 
 fried, to go round 
 
 other fish, 183. 
 for a pie, 182. 
 maitre d'hotel, 182. 
 pie, 252. 
 Sorrel sauce, 236. 
 Souffles, 286. 
 
 apple, with rice 286. 
 cheese, 296. 
 custard, 286.' 
 fritters, 281. 
 omelet, 285, 286. 
 in mould, 285. 
 orange, 286. 
 potato, 226. 
 sauce, 206. 
 Soups a la Creci, .56. 
 a la Francaise, 40. 
 a l'ltalienne, 67. 
 a lareine Victoria, 43. 
 a la Bap, 40. 
 Soup, artichoke, (Pales- 
 tine) 55. 
 asparagus, 55. 
 
 clear, 55. 
 baked, 39. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 457 
 
 Soup, beef broth, 45. 
 
 (leg of) broth, 45. 
 
 gravy, 37. 
 clear, 37. 
 soup, 37. 
 bouilli, 39. 
 broth, barley, (Scot.) 
 46. 
 
 chicken, 46. 
 
 fish, 54. 
 
 mutton, 45. 
 
 sheep's head, 45. 
 
 veal, 45. 
 brown stock for, 35. 
 
 fish, 51. 
 cabbage, 56. 
 calves* foot, a la 
 tureen, 44. 
 
 tail, 44. 
 carrot, 56. 
 celery, 57. 
 cheap, 40. 
 
 and good, 40. 
 cheese, 297. 
 cock-a-leekie, 40. 
 consomme, 41. 
 cray fish, 52. 
 Creci,56. 
 curry, 39. 
 de l'asperge, 55. 
 eel, 52. 
 
 Espagnole, 43. 
 fi B h, 51. 
 
 magnifique, 64. 
 Savoured like turtle, 
 
 51. ' 
 giblet, 46. 
 haddock, 52. 
 hare, 47. 
 herb, 57. 
 Hessian, 40. 
 hotch-potch, 57. 
 Italienne, (veal) 42. 
 
 (vegetable) 57. 
 Julienne, 58. 
 lamb, 45. 
 lamb's tail, 44. 
 leek (Scotch), 58. 
 lobster, 53. 
 
 puree of, 53. 
 Lorraine, 47. 
 macaroni, 39. 
 maire, 60. 
 milk, 54. 
 roulligatawney, 43. 
 
 Indian method, 43. 
 mussel, 53. 
 mutton, 44. 
 onion, 58. 
 
 Spanish, 58. 
 oxtail, 38. 
 oyster, 53. 
 
 Soup, partridge, 48. 
 
 paste, for, 272. 
 
 pea, 58. 
 clear, 59. 
 green, 59. 
 dried, 59. 
 
 pepper pot, 59. 
 
 pigeon, 48. 
 
 portable, 41. 
 white, 41. 
 
 potage a la reine, 51. 
 
 potato, 60. 
 
 quenelle, of all kindB, 
 73. 
 
 rice, 60. 
 
 sage, 39. 
 
 saut6, 60. 
 
 skate, 54. 
 
 sorrel, 61. 
 
 spring, 60, 6 1 . 
 
 tomato, 61. 
 
 transparent, 42. 
 
 turnip, 61. 
 puree of, 61. 
 
 turtle, killed and 
 dressed, 49. 
 mock, 50. 
 
 vegetable, 54. 
 
 velout^j 48. 
 
 vermicelli, 42. 
 
 white, 36. 
 
 white stock for, 36. 
 Spare rib of pork, 115. 
 Spanish fritters, 281. 
 
 onions, to dress, 288. 
 Spiced ale, 399. 
 
 beef, 69. 
 
 macaroons, 366. 
 Spinach, 228. 
 
 a l'Anglaise, 228. 
 
 another way, 228. 
 
 a la Francaise, 228. 
 
 ragout, 229. 
 
 sauce, 206. 
 Sponge cake, 367. 
 
 to clean, 402. 
 Spring water ewer with 
 
 ice tub, xviii. 
 Steaks, beef, 71. 
 
 mutton, 99. 
 
 rump, 70. 
 Steam kettles, xxv. 
 Stewed cheese, 297. 
 Stewpan, xviii. 
 Sticking knife, xix. 
 Stilton cheese, 289, 297.] 
 Stock-pot and ladle, xvi. 
 Stock, brown soup, 35, 
 
 white Boup, 36. 
 
 white or brown fish 
 soup, 51. 
 Stout, brown, 396. 
 
 Stoves, xxii. 
 
 stewing, xxiii. 
 
 cottage, xxv. 
 Strawberry, conserve, 348. 
 
 cream, 305, 306. 
 
 ice, 305. 
 
 jam, 347. 
 
 tart, 271. 
 Strawberries, Parisian 
 soufflS, 347. 
 
 preserved in wine, 
 347. 
 
 whole,to preserve,348« 
 Stuffed omelet, 285. 
 Sturgeon, baked, 1 84. 
 
 boiled, 181. 
 
 broiled, 184. 
 
 fillets of, 184. 
 
 martre d'hdtel, 185. 
 
 roasted, 184. 
 
 stewed, 184. 
 Suet dumplings, 268. 
 
 pudding, 265, 266. 
 Sugar canister, xiv. 
 
 coloured for orna- 
 menting, 327. 
 
 different degrees of 
 preparing, 325. 
 
 green coloured, 327. 
 
 Neige, a la, 327. 
 
 paste, 328. 
 
 to boil for baskets, 
 326. 
 
 to clarify, 326. 
 
 or svrup ratafia with- 
 'out, 391. 
 Sweetbreads, lamb, 110. 
 Sweetmeat pudding, 266. 
 Sweetmeats, yellow al- 
 monds, 271. 
 Syrup of capillaire, 387. 
 
 raspberry vinegar, 
 318. 
 
 Table knives, remarks on, 
 
 32. 
 Tapioca pudding, 266. " 
 Tarragon, sauce, 206, 207. 
 Tarts, 268. 
 
 almonds green, 269. 
 
 apple, 268. 
 
 apricot, 268. 
 
 sweetmeat for, 269. 
 
 bean, 269. 
 
 cherry, 269. 
 
 chocolate, 269. 
 
 currant, 269. 
 
 damson, 269. 
 
 gooseberry, 269. 
 
45* 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Tarts, grape, 269. 
 
 mixed jam for, 275. 
 
 iceingfor, 363. 
 
 orange, 260. 
 
 pear, 269. 
 
 quince, 269. 
 
 raspberry, 264. . 
 with cream, 269. 
 
 rhubarb, 270. 
 
 strawberry, 270. 
 
 fruits, to preserve for, 
 358. 
 Taifflets, 268, 271. 
 
 barberries, for, 332. 
 
 mixed jam, for, 275. 
 
 pan, xix. 
 Tea, 372. 
 
 cream, 3 J 7. 
 
 ereme du the, 377. 
 
 ice, 377. 
 Teal, 132. 
 
 Tendons of veal, 89. 
 Tench, 162. ; 
 
 pie, 253. 
 The cellar, 397. 
 Timbale of eggs, 283. 
 
 macaroni, 299. 
 Tin canister, xiv. 
 To give a Vanilla flavour 
 
 to coffee, 375. 
 To roast coffee, 373. 
 Toasts of cheese, 291. 
 Toasted cheese, 297. 
 Toasting cheese froma- 
 
 gere, for, 298. 
 To bake appleswhole, 330. 
 To boil sugar for baskets, 
 
 &c. 326. 
 To candy fruit, 328. 
 
 barberries, 332. 
 
 cherries, 334. 
 To clarify butter, 288. 
 
 sugar, 326. 
 To cutout patty cases,271. 
 To dry apricots in halves, 
 
 329. 
 To dry cherries, 334. 
 To keep cherries, 334. 
 
 codlin apples, 330. 
 
 cream, 306. 
 
 damsons, 337. 
 
 gooseberries, 340. 
 
 jelly, 316. 
 
 lemon j uice, 342. 
 for puddings, 343. 
 
 oranges or3emons,343. 
 
 for puddings, 344. 
 
 necatrines, 343. 
 
 pears, 345. 
 
 quince, 343. 
 
 raspberries, 346. 
 To make capillaire, 387. 
 
 To mak« Chili, or any 
 other vinegar, 
 357. 
 wafers, 368. 
 Tomatos, gamttnre of, 207. 
 ketchup, 35S. 
 sauce, 207. 
 
 Francaise, 208. 
 a l'ltalienne, 208. 
 soup, 61, 
 Tongues, beef, to cure, 79. 
 to dress, 86. 
 larded, «8. 
 stewed, 80. 
 pickle, for, 356. 
 pork, 123. 
 sheep, 106. 
 to pickle, 356. 
 To neutralize acidsift fruits, 
 pies, and pud- 
 dings, 272. 
 To prepare ice for iceing, 
 
 301. 
 To preserve apricots, 328, 
 329. 
 green, 328. 
 apple pippins in slices, 
 
 330. 
 apples, golden pip- 
 pin, 330. 
 apples, green cod-. 
 
 lings, 331. 
 artichokeSjWholejSS 1 . 
 the Spanish way, 
 
 331. 
 bullaces, 333. 
 cheese, 296. 
 cherries, dry, in 
 
 bunches, 334. 
 damsons, 337. 
 figs, 337. 
 
 ripe, 337. 
 fruits for tarts, 338. 
 family dessert, 338. 
 green fruit, 338. 
 green grapes, 340. 
 in clusters, 340. 
 nectarines, 343. 
 oranges, 343. 
 injellv,344. 
 peel, 344. 
 Seville, whole, 344. 
 pears, 345. 
 plums, dry, 345. 
 quinces, 346. 
 raspberries, 346. 
 Siberian crabs, 347. 
 strawberries whole, 
 348. 
 Transparent marmalade, 
 319. 
 soup, 42. 
 
 Treacle pudding, 266. 
 Trifle, 3«7. 
 
 apple, 307. 
 Tripe, 82. 
 Truffles, 230. 
 
 en surprise, 230. 
 
 to keep, 230. 
 
 tourte of, 230. 
 
 with champagne, 230. 
 Trout, 185. 
 
 truite g la Genevoise, 
 186. 
 
 a la princesse royale, 
 186. 
 
 sauce, 209. 
 
 stewed, 186. 
 Trussing needle, xviii. 
 Turbot, 186. 
 
 a la roi, 187. 
 
 fillets of, 187. 
 
 kettle, xvii. 
 'Turkev, 129. 
 
 hashed, 130. 
 
 with sausage meat, 
 130. 
 
 carpets, to clean, 402. 
 Turnips, 229. 
 
 puree of, 230. 
 
 sauce, 209. 
 
 soup, 61. 
 puree of, 61. 
 Turtle, 49. 
 
 killed and dressed, 
 49. 
 
 mock, (receipts), 50. 
 Twelfth cake, 368. 
 
 Vanilla, cream of, 306. 
 ioe, 310. 
 
 cream, of, 392. 
 Veal, 84. 
 
 blanquette de veau, 
 
 92. 
 breast of; boiled, 85. 
 forced, 35. 
 ragout, 85. ' 
 stewed, 84. 
 broth, 45. 
 calf's brains, 96. 
 ears, 94. 
 stuffed, 94. 
 another way, 95. 
 feet, 95. 
 
 fricasseed, 95. 
 stewed, 95. 
 head,. r ,93. 
 £ la maitre 
 
 d'hote)^, 
 a la tortue, 94. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 459 
 
 Veal, calf s head, baked, 
 93. 
 for grill, 92. 
 hashed, 94. 
 pie, 241. 
 
 heart, 96. 
 
 kidney, 96. 
 
 liver, 96. 
 
 liver and lights, 96. 
 chops, larded, 89. 
 collops, 88. 
 
 another way, 89. 
 cutlets, 88. 
 
 another way, 88. 
 
 a la Main tenon, 09. 
 
 crumbed or plain, 
 88. 
 
 curried, 88. 
 curried, 92. 
 emincees, 91 . 
 fillet of roasted, 84. 
 
 boiled, 84. 
 fricandeau, 92. 
 galantine of, 90. 
 gravy, 38. 
 grenadins of, 91. 
 
 do. from neck, 91. 
 haricoed, 90. 
 knuckle of, boiled, 86. 
 
 another way, 87. 
 
 stewed, 87- 
 
 another receipt, 87. 
 loin of, 86. 
 
 boiled, 86. 
 
 stewed, 86. 
 neck of, 87. 
 
 braised, 88. 
 
 stewed, 87. 
 noix de veau, 91. 
 olives of, roti, 90. 
 pain de veau, 91. 
 pie, cold, 241. 
 
 chicken and pars- 
 ley, 253. 
 
 in a dish, 254. 
 
 olives, 253. 
 potted, 90, 235, 236. 
 shoulder of, 85. 
 
 Si la Piedmontese, 
 86. 
 
 boned and stewed, 
 85. 
 tendons of, 89. 
 Vegetables, 212. 
 angelica, 215. 
 artichokes, 215. 
 
 Si la St. Cloud, 215. 
 
 bottoms, 215, 21S. 
 
 fnVd, 216. 
 
 oeiusalem, 215. 
 
 leaf, 215. 
 
 salads, 216. 
 
 Vegetables, asparagus, 213. 
 
 asperge a. la pois, 
 214. 
 
 en croustade, 213. 
 
 forced, 214. 
 
 Italian fashion, 
 214. 
 beans, 218. 
 beans, French, 216. 
 
 Si laBretonne, 217. 
 
 Si laFrancaise,217. 
 
 h, la maitre d'hotel, 
 217. 
 
 en allumette, 217. 
 
 fricasseed, 217. 
 garden, preserved, 
 
 218. 
 haricot, 218. 
 
 Si la Francaise, 219. 
 
 roots, 219. 
 
 white, 219. 
 Spanish receipt, 
 219. 
 to keep, 216, 217. 
 puree of white, 218. 
 salad of, 218. 
 stewed, 218. 
 Windsor, 218. 
 beetroots, 219. 
 broccoli, 220. 
 
 and buttered eggs, 
 220. 
 cabbages, 220. 
 
 and bacon, 221. 
 
 boiled, 220. 
 
 boiled arid stewed, 
 220. 
 
 game for, 221. 
 
 keep, to, 220.' 
 
 ragout, 221. 
 
 red, 221. ' 
 
 red, to stew, 221. 
 
 salad, 221. 
 cardoons, 222. 
 cauliflowers, 222. 
 
 Si la Francaise, 222. 
 
 au fromage, 222. 
 
 boil, to, 222. 
 
 chartreuse of, 222. 
 celery, stewed, 223. 
 chartreuse of vege- 
 tables, 213. 
 cucumbers, stewed, 
 
 223. 
 endives, 223. 
 
 au jus, 223. 
 lettuces, 229. 
 morels, 231. 
 
 in gravy, 231. 
 
 to keep, 231. 
 mushroomsSi l'Espag- 
 nole,broiled,229. 
 
 Vegetables, mushroom 
 ketchup, 354 
 pickled, 354. 
 white, 354. 
 sauce, brown, 201. 
 white, 201. 
 observations on, 212. 
 peas, 223. 
 Si la Francaise, 224. 
 green, 223. 
 soup, 59. 
 dried, soup, 59. 
 pudding, 262. 
 stewed, 224. 
 
 in cream, 225. 
 soup, 58. 
 
 another way, 58. 
 soup, clear, 59. 
 potatoes, 225. 
 
 Si la maitre d'hotel, 
 
 225. 
 Si la crSme, 226. 
 balls, 227. , 
 broiled, 226. 
 fried, 226. 
 glazed, 226. 
 mash, 227. 
 new, to boil, 225. 
 pudding, 264. 
 pure'e of, 227. 
 ragout, 226. 
 rissoles, 226. 
 roasted, 225. 
 souffle, 226. 
 soup, 60. 
 salsify, 228. 
 scorzanera,'228. 
 sea kale, 227. 
 
 stewed, 227- 
 soup, 54. 
 
 Spanish onions, 228. 
 spinach, 228. 
 
 Si l'Anglaise, 228. 
 
 another way, 228. 
 Si la Francaise, 228. 
 ragoftt, 229. 
 traffles,1230. 
 en surprise, 230. 
 to keep, 230. 
 tourte of, 230. 
 with I champaigne, 
 230. 
 turnips, pure'e of, 230. 
 
 whole, 229. 
 salads, 232. 
 Parisian, 231. 
 Sidney Smith's re- 
 ceipt, 231. 
 Vegetable strainer, xxi. 
 Veloute", 48. 
 Venison, 142. 
 
 dress, to, 142. 
 
460 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Venison, hash, to, 142. 
 
 neck of, 143. 
 
 sauce, 209. 
 
 shoulder of, stewed, 
 143. 
 
 potted, 236. 
 Vermicelli, 266. 
 
 pudding, 266. 
 
 soup, 42. 
 Vespetro, 392. 
 Vinegar, various kinds, 
 357. 
 
 w. 
 
 Wafers, almond, 27S. 
 
 to make, 368. 
 
 tongs, xiii. 
 Walnut ketchup, 209. 
 
 for fish sauce, 3S6. 
 
 pickle, 3S7. 
 
 pickled, 356. 
 
 wine, 385. 
 Wassail bowl in Glouces- 
 tershire, 400. 
 Wasser kirschen, 388. 
 Water casks, to clean, 402. 
 
 filter, xiii. 
 
 hot, dish, xiii. 
 
 ices generally, 311. 
 
 souchy, 187. 
 
 Warming pot, xviii. 
 Welsh rabbit of toasted 
 cheese, 298. 
 
 another way, 298. 
 Wheatears, 141. 
 White bait, 188. 
 
 caudle, 387. 
 
 currant water ice, 
 311. 
 
 hippoeras, 388. 
 
 sauce for fish, 208. 
 
 stock for soup, 36. 
 Whitings, 188. 
 
 eurry of, 188. 
 
 fillets of, 188. 
 
 puddings, 188. 
 
 quenelles of, 188. 
 Whole blacktops, 332. 
 Wholesome beverage, 392. 
 Wines, home made, 378. 
 
 apricot, 379. 
 
 halm, 379. 
 
 barley, 379. 
 
 birch, 379. 
 
 blackberry, 380. 
 
 cherry, 380. 
 
 chocolate, 380. 
 
 claret, artificial, 380. 
 
 clary, 380. 
 
 cowslip, 381. 
 
 currant, 381. 
 red or white, 381. 
 
 Wines, home made, Cy- 
 press, to imitate, 
 382. 
 
 damson, 382. 
 
 elder, 382. 
 
 elder, 382. 
 
 elder flower wine, 382. 
 
 ginger, 383. 
 
 gooseberry, 383. 
 
 grape, 383. 
 
 mountain, 384. 
 
 mulberry, 384. 
 
 orange, 384. 
 
 parsnip, 384. 
 
 raisin, 384. 
 
 raspberry, 385. 
 
 walnut, 385. 
 Wine cooler, xviii. 
 Winter, to preserve butter 
 
 for, 238. 
 Wood block, or stand, for 
 pestle and mor- 
 tar, xiii. 
 Woodcocks, 152. 
 
 potted, 236. 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yellow almond sweet- 
 meats, 271. 
 Yorkshire cakes, 368. 
 
 pudding, 266. 
 
 pudding-pan, xix. 
 
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ERRATA. 
 
 Page ], line 19, for Samoiedes, read Samoied. 
 10, line 2 from bottom, for for read the. 
 
 13, last line, for Urquart read Urquhart. 
 
 14, line 3, for health is, — for read health — is for. 
 28, line 1, for unite read unites. 
 
 16, line 12 from bottom, for follows lead, follow. 
 
 49, line 20, for peal read peel. 
 
 64, line 25, for it read they. 
 127, line 5 from bottom, for brick read foa/.. 
 148, No. 468, for Liveret read Leveret. 
 155, line 5 from bottom, for if read them. 
 189, last line, for a read one. 
 208, No. 758, for Tamato read Tomato. 
 216, for 585 read 785. 
 221, for 119 read 819. 
 232, for Head of a Gigantic Prize Cucumber" xeai Head of a Gigantic Aspa- 
 
 289, line 4 from bottom, for they are read it is. 
 
 358, title of chapter, for Bicuils read Biscuits. 
 
 '611, line 3, for prefaratory read prefatory. 
 
 378, line 8 from bottom, for sulpher read sulphur. 
 
 401, last line, for where read were. 
 
 410, line 12, second column, for sweatbreads read sweetbreads. 
 
 J. H ADDON, PRINTER, CASTLE STREET, FINSBUUY. 
 
'. 
 
 
 
 1