Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924075437420 ""NEi-L UNIVERSny LIBBiRr 3 1924 075 437 420 SPRINGS AND WELLS IN GREEK AND ROMAN LITERATURE THEIR LEGENDS AND LOCATIONS BY JAMES REUEL SMITH mm TWO ILLUSTRATIONS G. p. PUTNAM'S SONS NEW YORK AND LONDON tlbe •ftnlcherbochcr ptcee 1922 Copyright, ipaa by James Reuel Smith All rights reserved, including the right of translation into any foreign language Made in the United States of America ^ii^ To HOWARD RUSSELL BUTLER who has fondly pictured " The Mother of Springs " IN EVERY mood OF HER BEAUTY THESE SKETCHES OF SOME OF HER DAUGHTERS ARE DEDICATED PREFACE Even the Queen and the King, in the days of fable, were constrained to visit the sources of water supply quite as forcibly as Mahomet was compelled to the Mountain, and, just as, later, the idler at the village pvunp, or the more aspiring Spa, learned all the news of the neighborhood, so the reader, who leisurely traces the path that meanders by the numerous fountains of the ancient writers and makes the rounds of the Springs of Mythology, becomes the entertained recipient of all the gossip and the family history of that classic band of beings of the brain that the early poets preserved and transmitted to posterity. The gossip at each successive Spring widens the reader's circle of acquaintance, and, before the end of the path is reached, there is little of interest in the records of the masters of make-believe that has not been laid before the literary loiterer and absorbed in the most pleasant manner. One of the first of the philosophic tenets likely to present itself to the human mind would be Metemp- sychosis, and Metamorphosis would follow by natural suggestion. Given the factors of facial resemblance, affection and absence, and the germs of the doctrine would inevitably sprout in some thinking brain. Later, in meditation, fancy and reasoning would find no limit to the guises the vital spirit might assume. When one had seen the yolk of a little egg change into an eagle vi PREFACE with a six-foot spread of wing and fiy away out of sight Heavenward; or had discovered that a tiny acorn could assume the form of a tree and become a giant in size and strength, it was not a stretch for the imagination but rather a pastime to fancy a human being changed into any conceivable object; or even, as in the story of Deu- calion and Pyrrha, or that of Cadmus, to suppose stones transformed into men and women, or teeth into a fully accoutered army. A simple plot was thus naturally furnished upon which to ring the changes of a thousand tales, going back even to the creation of the world out of — nothing. Every country and every tongue produced entertain- ing fancies of this character, borrowed, interchanged and elaborated through legendary mediiun, until, at last, they appeared polished in rhythm, and then in writing. Such tales came down from Hesiod, Homer and Ovid in their best embellished form, and, among them all, those relating to transformations into Springs are neither the least romantic nor absorbing, for the thread of them is, in many instances, spun from an ardent affection. In these stories writers sometimes differ in giving names, and, sometimes, more or less in their versions. Perfect agreement among them, however, could hardly be looked for when it is considered that ancient authors frequently had to rely upon memory, as, with the com- paratively few manuscripts then in existence, it was often impracticable to verify names and details by referring to the original work from which the account was drawn. Ovid's description of the Creation shows a common origin with that of Moses — similarly, he mentions the Springs as the first terrestrial features created — and a serious interest attaches to Mythology from the fre- PREFACE vii quently overlooked fact that it was for two thousand or more years the religion of millions of people, among whom were some of the brightest intellects of which there is any record. Mythology, giving the genealogy of the gods from the beginning, was the Bible of those people and they accepted its most wonderful relation with no less gravity and respect than pious modern people, Mor- mons, Mohammedans, and others, accept the miracles in the basic books of their religions. Temples were frequently built about or above Springs; and on the 13th day of October the Festival of the Fon- tinalia was held in honor of the divinities that presided over all Springs and fountains. The nymphs of the Springs were the naiads to whom they were sacred, and this was not only poetical but practical, for, when the Spring is the sole source of supply, its waters need to be carefully protected so that they may be clear and clean at all times, and, among the re- ligiously superstitious Greeks and Romans, such purity was best assured by appealing to their fears and call- ing them sacred, thus making their pollution an act of sacrilege. The sacredness of the fountains being thus established, and their waters being perpetual, they became preemi- nently fitted to be called upon as witnesses when making vows, and they were so called upon even in ordinary assertion and exclamation, as, "By the Earth and all its Springs, ' ' ' ' Now by the Wells whereof our Fathers drank, ' ' "O Fount of Dirce and thou, spacious Grove, ye are my witnesses." Pausanias is one of the most prolific enumerators ot Grecian Springs, but unfortunately he gives little data from which their appearance may be pictured. The poets, however, often portrayed the peculiarities of their viii PREFACE founts with minute detail, and it is to be hoped that their likenesses were true to nature. Pausanias did little more than enumerate, and his book might be called a catalog of ruins from which one who is not on the spot can seldom draw any but a hazy outline of what he saw. The greater part of the temples and towns that he seems to have seen had been in ruins for centuries before he wrote about them, and were in a more dilapidated condition than the cities and cathedrals in the war-stricken districts of Europe in 1918. The best of the statuary had been carried off by conquerors, or was buried in the wreckage of roofless temples, and such wooden works of ancient art as remained were mutilated and rotting with age. It would be interesting to know where he spent his nights on the road through these ruins, and on what he subsisted; he mentions no caravansary and no wine shop — but one can almost tell how often he quenched his thirst, by the names of the Springs he jotted down in his diary. In fact, mountains. Springs and watercourses are now the best guides to the route he took in his travels. The mountains and the rivers are shown more or less meagerly in such atlases as furnish a very small scale map of "Ancient " this or that, but no one can get an idea of the whereabouts of the Springs without perusing the pages of old travelers, or those of the poets, or laboriously and often in vain going through Geographical Dictionaries, and the present is the first attempt to group together many of the Springs that classic authors of prose and poetry have thought worthy of mention. After the deluge of the Greeks, who perhaps derived much of their mythology from the Egyptians, Deucalion and Pyrrha, the leaders of such as had survived with the PREFACE ix animals, not in a ship, but by seeking the heights of Mt. Parnassus, descended the mountain and began repeopling the country in the vicinity of the Spring of Castalia. That Spring, having been erroneously endowed by the Roman poets with inspirational properties, has become the most famous Spring in the literary world, so that, though there is no fable of any transformation as its origin, it may be regarded as the origin of many trans- formations. But incalculable harm has thereby been done to the Spring of Aganippe, and it is time she came into her own. Still, as Castalia, up to the present, has enjoyed the honor of being the most noted Spring in the world, and neither sought the undue honor nor could protest against it, it would seem to deserve first mention in a list of Springs. Its history, however, commences with the flood, and there are antediluvian fountains whose age claims precedence, especially those of Arcadia, as to whose residents a suggestion is hazarded in the Foreword to The Springs of Thessaly. Greece was a dwarf country whose distances were im- pressively magnified by the measure that was used to express them; thus the great stretch of 1400 stadia, both in length and in breadth, that was assigned to the Pelo- ponnesus, represents 175 miles when the stadia are taken at their modern value of a furlong each and eight of them are reckoned to the mile. In all languages "Spring" and "Well" are often used interchangeably and the "Well" of the classics is nearly always a Spring; when, in rare cases, it is really a driven well this is usually made clear either by the context, or by the reports of modern describers who have rediscovered the shaft. An ancient author is cited in every case as a base X PREFACE from which the history and fortunes of any particular fountain may be followed down in detail. A series of intimate impressions of ancient springs as modem features having been interrupted by the out- break of the recent war, that phase of the subject has for the most part been drawn from reports of scholarly travelers of the 17th century and subsequent years; and a concrete list of their names is substituted for several thousand scattered references, to them and to ancient writers, which have been deleted as being unduly cumbersome in a book for popular reading. J. R. S. New York, December, 1920. Authorities Cited for Legends or Ancient Locations About B.C. A.D. About B.C. A.D. .(Eschylus 525 . . Martial 43 ApoUodorus 443 Ovid 18 Apollonius Pausanias 170 Rhodius 235 , . Philostratus 182 Aristophanes 444 Plautus 254 Athenasus 200 Pliny; Callimachus 260 the elder 79 Cicero 106 Pliny; Claudian 400 the younger no Diodorus 50 Propertius 14 Euripides 406 Ptolemy 100 Florus 65 Servius 400 Herodotus 400 Strabo 24 Hesiod 850 Suetonius 140 Homer 950 Theocritus 300 Horace 65 Theophrastus 350 Hyginus 10 Thucydides 471 Juvenal 96 Virgil 19 Livy 59 . , Vitruvius 100 Lucan 65 Xenophon 435 Authorities FOR Modern Locations Clavier, E. Pococke, Ed. Dodwell, Edward Smith, Dr. Wm Fellows, C. Spon & Wheeler Hamilton, W. J Texier, C. F. M Irby & Mangles '• Wheeler, Spon & Leake, Wm. M Wilkins, Wm. Mangles, Irby & Wilkinson, Sir ^ .G. Mure, Wm., of Caldwell Wordsworth, Christopher Murray, Hugh XI CONTENTS PAGE Preface ... .... . v List of Basic Authorities ..... .xi Synopsis . . xv Springs and Wells of: — Greece . ..... i Peloponnesus ...... i Central Greece . ... 140 Northern Greece ..... 257 Magna Gr-ecia . . . 293 Asia Minor . 312 Greek Islands . 383 Foreign Countries . 421 Homer 537 Virgil 554 Italy . ... 568 Italian Islands ..... 661 Indexes: — A — Names and Characteristics of Springs and Wells . . . . 683 B — Divinities, People, Places and Subjects . 694 C — Countries, Divisions, Districts and Islands 721 SYNOPSIS SPRINGS AND WELLS OF GREECE PELOPONNESUS: Arcadia : i Neda-Hagno, Arnc, Three Wells, CEnoe, Tritonis, Linus, Mt. Elaion, Tcgca, Lcuconius, The Blacksmith's Well, Well at Phigalia, Jay's Well, Lymax, Melangeia, Mt. Ales- ium, Alalcomenea, Orchoraenus Well, Wells called Teneje, Nonacris (Styx), M^nalus, Stymphelus, Clitorian Spring, Crathis, Well Alyssus, Lusi, Menelaus', Philip's Well, Well of the Meliastae, Olympias, Alpheus, Ladon, Eryman- thus, Brentheates, Buphagus.Helisson, ScoIitas,BathyUus, Theater Spring, Dionysus', Hill Spring, Lusius-Gortynius, Nymphasia, Tragus. Argolis: 47 Adrastea, Perseus', Amymone, Physadea, Hippocrene, Hercules' Well, Hycessa, Inachus, Treton, Asopus, Erasi- nus, Hyllicus, Methana, Wells of Hermione, Well of Cana- thus, Wells and Fountains of j^ilsculapius. Dine. Laconia: 75 ^sculapius', Gythium, Pellanis, Lancea, Dorcea, Envoys' Well, Tiassus, Messeis, Polydeucea, Marius, NymphEeum, Water of the Moon, Taenarum, Pluto's Springs, Atalanta's, Belemina, Fortunate Springs, Anonus, Gelaco, Naia, Ger- onthra;. Messenia: 94 Dionysus', Clepsydra, Pamisus, Pharas, Well Achaia, (E- chalia, Plataniston, Mothone. XV xvi SYNOPSIS Elis: - - - - - - 104 Piera, Pisa, Salmone, Cytherus, Letrini, Arene, Aniger, Cruni. Achaia: 116 Patrse, Pharae, Well of Argyra, Well of ^gium, Mysaeum, Cyros, Sybaris, Dirce, Cymothe. Sicyonia: 123 Dripping Well (Dropping fountain.) Corinthia: 126 Corinth (foreword), Peirene, Glauce, Well of Lerna, Bath of Helen. Megaris: - - 138 Fount of the Sithnides. CENTRAL GREECE: Attica: 140 Athens' Springs, Erechtheium Well, Callirrhoe, Halirrho- thius, Semnse, Clepsydra, Pan and Apollo, Panopus, Calli- chorus. Well of Flowers, Eridanus, Cephisia, Macaria, Larine, Attic fountain. Boeotia: 167 Thebes', Dirce, Ares', Strophie, Antiope, Well of CEdipus, Aulis, Potniac, Hercyna, Tilphu.sa, Amphiaraus', Hyaia;, Ma;nads', Well of Dirce, Fountain of Cithaeron, Plata;a, Gargaphia, Asopus, Cissusa, Lophis, Acidalia, Orcho- menus, Arethusa, Epicrane, CEdipodia, Psamathe, Melas, Cyrtones, Donacon, Thcspiie, Libethrias and Petra, Aga- nippe, Hippocrene, Other Helicon Springs. Phocis: 222 Phocis (foreword), Castalia, Cassotis, Corycian cave's. Crow's Spring, Cirrha, Hyampnlis Well, Cephissus, Pano- peus, Stiris, Saunion Well. .£tolia: 244 Callirrhoe, Orea, Hyrie, Phana, Mt. Taphiassus Spring. SYNOPSIS xvii Acarnania: - 253 Crenae. EastLocris: - - 254 Thermopylae, ^anis. NORTHERN GREECE: Epirus: 257 Achelous, Athamanis (Dodona), Lyncestis, Royal waters, Chimerium. Illyricum: 265 ApoUonia, Cephissus (see Phocis). Thessaly: 266 Thessaly (foreword), Hypereia, Messeis, Cerona, Neleus, Peneus, Titaresius, Dyras, Cranon, Pagasse, Inachus, Eury- menas. Macedonia: - 280 Pimplea, Baphyra, Fountain of Inna, Ma, Pella, Lita;, Nonacris. Thrace: 288 Well Libcthra, Teams, Trilonian lake. MAGNA GR^CIA Bruttii, lapygia, CEnotria : 293 Foreword, Fountain of Blood (Sybaris), Thuria, Medma, Locria, Well Lyca, Leuca, Ela. ASIA MINOR Mysia: - 312 Caicus, Astyra, Royal fountain, Dascylum, Artacian foun- tain, Cleite, Jason's, Perperena. Bithynia: - - - 319 Pegas, Amycus, Azaritia, Pliny's Bithynian. xviii SYNOPSIS Paphlagonia: - 3^6 Paphlagonian fountain. Pontus: 327 Thermodon, Cainochorion, Apollonia, Phazemonite. Lydia: 330 Niobe, Hypelaeus, Calippia, Smyrna, Claros, Pactolus, Clazomenai. Phrygia: - 34' Marsyas', Rhyndacus, Claeon, Gelon, Pipe fountain (Maeander), Lycus, Midas' Well, Themisonium, Caruru Boiling Springs, Hierapolis, Gallus, Dorylieum, Menos- come, Lion's village Spring, Sangarius, Arms of Briareus, Fountain of Midas. Cappadocia: - - 356 Asmaba;an Well. Caria: 358 Cnidus, Petrifying Spring, Labranda, Phausia, Salniacis, Byblis, Branchidae, Achillean fountain, Mylasa. Lycia: 372 Mela, Dinus, Limyra, Myra, Cyaneaj, Plane tree fountain. Cilicia: 377 Pikron Hydor, Pyramus, Cydnus. Colchis: Fountains of Hephaestus. - 380 GREEK ISLANDS Ithaca: - 383 Arethusa, Penelope's Spring. .ffigina: . . - 387 Psamathe." SYNOPSIS xix Euboea : 39 r Foreword, ^depsus, Hercules', Arethusa, Lclantum. Tenedos: 397 Tenedos. Lesbos: - - 398 Lesbos (Sappho's Spring). Cydonea: - 401 Cydonea. Andros: 401 Andros (Dionysus'). Samos : 403 Samian Spring, GigarlJio, Lcucuthea. Ceos: 405 Carthea, lulis, Cea. Tenos: 409 Tenos. Delos: 410 Dclos (Latona's). Cos: 414 Burinna. Nisyrus: - 416 Nisyrus. Crete: - - 417 Gortyna, Sauros, Ceres' Spring. FOREIGN COUNTRIES Africa: 421 Foreword, Nigris, Serpent Spring, Sandhills' Springs, Augi- la, Garamantes, Debris, Atarantes, Atlantes, Fountain of the Sun, Flora's, Tacape, Cinyps, Tunis, Zama, Carthage, Cyrene, Thestes, Ex pede Herculem. XX SYNOPSIS Egypt: - 447 Nile, Well of Syene, Blackthorn Spring, Memnon, Wells of Apis, Pyramid Well, Marea, Cairo, Rhacotis, Pharos, Bitter Springs, Tatnos. Ethiopia : 469 Fountain of Health, Liparis, Tisitia, Red fountain, Cucios. Arabia: 472 Arabia, jEnuscabales, Coralis, Daulotos, Dora, Arsinoe, Red Sea Spring, Seven Wells, Petra. Phoenicia, Palestine: 476 Joppa, Hiericus, Engadda, Callirrhoe, Jordan, Tiberias, Aradus. Mesopotamia: - 486 Callirhoe, Chabura. Armenia: - - 488 Armenia, Euphrates, Tigris. Assyria, Syria, Persia: 491 Thisbe's Spring, Babylonian naptha, Ardericca Well, Cas- talian Spring (Daphne), Typhon, One Thousand Springs, Dardes, Euleus, Bagistanus, Golden Water. England: 501 AquaiSulis. France, Belgium: 502 Bormo, Aquas Calidas (Vichy), Orge, Aquae Convenarum, Aquas Tarbellse (Aqs), Aquse Sextia; (Aix), AqujE Gratiana^ (Aix-les-Bains), Nemausus, Wound-cure Springs, Pons Tungrorum (Spa). Switzerland: 510 Rhone. Spain: - 512 Tartessus, Pillars of Hercules, Taniaricus, Magnet-like Springs, False Goldfish, Ilerda, Aquas Calidae, Ana. SYNOPSIS xxi Germany: 5il Danube, Rhine, Paralysis, Mattiacum. Russia, Scythia: ... 527 Exampeeus, Librosus, Lethe. India: - - 531 Fountains of Calanus, Ganges. EPIC POETS Homer: 537 Foreword, Meles, Fountains of Mt. Ida, Scamandcr, Simois, La?strygonia, Lotos-Land, Lachaca, Apollo's Isle, Ogygia, Phasacia, Ithaca, Pharian Isle, Ithaca, Unnamed Springs. Virgil: 554 Foreword, Bucolics' Springs, Theocritus' Springs, Geor- gics', Castalia, Peneus, Clitumnus, ^neid's, Arethusa, Timavus, Eridanus, Numicus, Silvia's Fawn Spring, Libyan, Avernus, Cocytus Mire Spring, Lethe. ITALY Latium: - - - 568 Rome, Bona Dea, Tarpeia, Ausonia, Faunus and Pious, Egeria, Juturna, Mercury's, Apostles' Springs, St. Peter's, St. Paul's, Virgin's Spring, Egeria (Aricia), Albunea, Fonte Bello, Sinuessa, Pliny's Laurentian, Labanas, Golden Water, Neptunian, Feronia, Ghost -Laying Springs. Campania: 621 Baise, Posidian, Cicero's Water, Salmacis, Araxus, Acidula, Well of Acerra, Fountain of Samus. Apulia: - 628 Bandusia (Horace's Spring). Calabria (see also Magna Grascia, page 293) : 630 Brundusium, xxii SYNOPSIS Peligni: ..... 631 Marcian, Ovid's Spring. Sabini: - - 634 Albula, Neminia, Cotylia;. Etniria : 636 Pliny's Tuscan founts, Aquae Tauri, Pisa, Vetulonia, Ccere- tana, Feronia, Aqua; ApoUinarcs, Aquas Passcris, Clusian. TTmbria: 646 Rubicon, Clitumnus. Liguria : - 650 Eridanus, Aqua; Statiella;, Padua, Aponian Springs. Gallia Transpadana : - 655 Pliny's Wonderful Spring. Venetia: - - - 658 Timavus, Monte Falcone. ITALIAN ISLANDS Sicily: 66 e Enna, Cyane, Arethusa, Acis, Founts of the Palici, Agri- gentum, Plinthia, Leontium, Tcmenitis, Archidemia, Ma- ga;a, Milichie, Anapus, Amenanus. Sardinia: ~ 681 Aq. Lesitante, Aq. Hypsitana;, Aq. Neapolitans. ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Neda; The Oldest Spring . . Fmnlispiece Byblis Changing into a Spring . . . Opposite 365 SPRINGS AND WELLS GREECE; PELOPONNESUS ARCADIA I Neda; Hagno Arcadia offers a most suitable starting point for a read- ing ramble through southern Greece. Circling over Mt. Cyllene, which is more than a mile and a quarter high and lacks less than two hundred feet of being the highest peak in the peninsula, one would see the latter making its own map and describing the form of a mulberry leaf, a shape that suggested the present name of Morea and displaced the earlier one of Pelops' Isle or Peloponnesus. Arcadia has been called the Switzerland of the Pelo- ponnesus of which it is the second largest country, having a territory equal to a tract forty miles square, as against Laconia's square of forty-three and a half miles. The Arcadians claimed an antiquity greater than that of the moon, a boast that becomes remarkably suggestive when considered in connection with a theory of one of the leading astronomers of the XXth century that the earth's satellite was thrown off from the western part of North America. Among the Greeks the Arcadians were considered the rudest of their countrymen, and their religious ceremo- nies included human sacrifices down to the Macedonian period. 2 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS Thanks, however, to the Latin poets, arcadian has become a synonym for ideal innocence and virtue as illustrated in the lives of simple shepherds and their mates. Arcadia was surrounded by mountains and was land- locked near the middle of the Morea; but in compensa- tion for her isolation from the sea she was richer in river sources than any of the surrounding districts. The Alpheus, the chief river of Greece, rose in her boundaries, and so did "the most ancient of waters" — the Spring of Neda. By the brink of that Spring one stood at the entrance to the Corridor of Time. Nearby was Lycosura, the oldest town; the first that the sun looked upon; the model of men's subsequent cities. And yet Lycosura was some way down the Corridor, for before the time of towns came the gardens of the gods, and the birthplace of the greatest of the gods was at the Spring of Neda on Mt. Lycseus where Rhea became the mother of Zeus, or Jupiter as he was called across the sea, in Italy. Other people, it is true, contended that Zeus was reared in their district, but the claim of the Arcadians is made appealing by its circumstantial presentation of details. Rhea's name, given to a cave on Mt. Lycasus, locates the exact scene of the great event; before it occurred there was no water in sight in any part of Arcadia, all of its fountains being then still beneath the surface of the earth. But as soon as the birth occurred Rhea raised her great arm and smote a spur of Mt. Lycaeus called Cerausius so that it was rent asunder, and this Spring burst forth for ARCADIA 3 the infant's bath. It formed the River Neda which the Arcadians called the most ancient water, and which had the additional distinction of being the crookedest river in Greece; indeed it ran more erratically than any river in the world, as it was then known, except the Phrygian river Mseander whose 600 windings are proverbial and have enriched languages with a word to express superla- tive sinuosity. Three Nymphs acted as nurses for Rhea and the juvenile Jove ; Neda, Thisoa and Hagno ; and the same writer who calls it Neda says that Hagno gave her name to the Spring on Mt. Lycaeus; under that name it is said that the stream's flow was unusually constant, it fur- nished as much water in summer as in winter, and in periods of drought it became the producer of rain, to cause which it was only necessary, after the proper sacri- fice had been made, to lower a branch of oak to its surface and gently stir the water; whereupon a steam-like mist would rise, and after a little interval become a cloud, and this cloud gradually growing, and joined by other clouds, the parched parts of Arcadia were soon overcast, and then refreshed by a gentle rain, all of which had started from the stirring of the Spring, which was a much quieter and pleasanter process than one modern method of caus- ing rain by cannonading and noisy explosions. Among Jove's many epithets was that of Pluvius, Rainmaker, an attribute that perhaps led to the concep- tion of this pretty conceit that the Spring possessed in a limited degree the power of the baby god that was brought up by its waters. Rather remarkably this use of a branch to produce some peculiar virtue in a Spring seems never to have been improved upon — Moses used it and so did Elisha, and even the water finder of the present day, when he has 4 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS supplied himself with nothing more than a hazel twig, is fully equipped to locate the spot that shall, on digging or boring, produce the needed water, after, as of yore, a certain sacrifice having a pecuniary value has been made by the landowner. Near the Spring of Hagno were two very notable groves, in one of which, the sacred Grove of Despoena, were specimens of grafting, far antedating and out- wizarding the works of Burbank, that showed trees of different kinds, such as the oak and the olive, growing from the same root. In the other grove, that flourished long before the days of "Peter Schlemihl," men and beasts cast no shadows at any season of the year, al- though, as it was understood that any man who entered this grove would not live more than a year, it is per- haps not very surprising that in those days of rampant superstition no men's shadows were ever seen in the enclosure. This ancient wonder was itself only an improvement on the account of a similarly shadowless forest, of Syene in Ethiopia, in which animals and trees cast no reflections, during that part of the year when the sun was in Cancer. (See No. 324.) Perhaps it was somewhere among these scenes of the genesis of Jove that he afterwards had made that wonder- ful creation of the Grecian mind — the first woman; for Mt. Lycaeus was known also as Mt. Olympus, and it was the Olympian body collectively that under Jove's com- mand produced the composite creation Pandora. The account is more elaborate than the Mosaic relation, and it is only a coincidence that Eden read backwards sug- gests the name of Neda. Jove having given his instructions, the Olympians began their composite labor; Vulcan, mixing earth with ARCADIA 5 water, "fashioned one like unto a modest, fair and lovely maiden: Venus endowed her head with grace: Minerva girdled and arrayed her; and around her skin the Goddess Graces and august Persuasion hung golden chains. The fair tressed hours crowned her about with flowers of spring; and Pallas adapted every ornament to her person. " But Mercury endowed her with a shameless mind, and in her breast wrought falsehoods and wily speeches, and tricksy manners, and a winning voice. And all bestowed on her a mischief to inventive men, to whom she was given that they might delight themselves at heart and hug their own evil, and against which all man's arts are vain." And perhaps if the Spring of Hagno could have spoken when she first looked in its mirror she would have heard, like Eve at Eden's Spring, "What there thou seest, fair creature, is thyself." This Spring produces an impetuous river, now called Buzi, which during its journey to the west performs much important and delicate work in defining the boundary lines of three countries; first adjusting the borders of Arcadia and Messenia, and then outlining the strip that separates Messenia from Elis at whose southern extrem- ity it passes into the Ionian Sea. Callimachus; Hymn to Jupiter. Pausanias; VIII. 38. 2 Arne Some ten stadia beyond the plain of Argum and near the highroad was another plain in which was the fountain of Arne, Lamb Fountain. It is second in interest only to the Spring of Neda, for Poseidon, the brother of Zeus, was reared at this fountain and fed with the lambs of the 6 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS flocks it watered, when his mother Rhea had deceived Cronus in order to prevent him from eating the baby sea god whom the Romans called Neptune. The tale of her deceit seems to furnish a reason for the appellation Hippius that was often given to Poseidon which is more likely than any of the explanations usually offered ; it was, as Rhea told it, that Cronus' latest son was a foal, and he, as she had expected, immediately de- voured the colt that she led up to him to prove her story. This royal example might have made horseflesh more popular had Cronus not weakened his authority as an epicure by devouring with equal avidity the stone that Rhea at another time made him believe was the form in which his son Zeus had been born. The fountain of Arne was about twelve stadia from what two thousand years ago was called "the modern" town of Mantineia, on the Ophis, the Dragon, River; the inhabitant's of the ancient town of that name, founded by Mantineus the son of Lycaon, having been guided to the new site by a Dragon. Other old Mantineans were said to have gone still farther away, and to have been the original settlers of Bithynia in Asia Minor — a contention quite in accord with the Arcadian propensity to make sweeping claims, such as that their Evander settled by the Roman Tiber before the Trojan War; that their Italus gave his name to Italy ; that Zeus was born in Arca- dia; that the Arcadians were the oldest people in Greece; and that they lived there before the Moon was created. Paleopoli now represents the ancient Mantineia and Arne would doubtless be found almost due south of it, and a mile and a half distant, were it not that the courses of the surrounding streams, and even the channel of the river, which is still called the Ophis, have been changed many times in attempts to prevent the flooding of the ARCADIA 7 plain, watery incursions in which one might fancy ghostly revisitations of the sea god to the site of his lambs' wool cradle. Pausanias; VIII. 8. 3 Three Wells Hermes was born in the mountains called Tricrena at a place where there were Three Wells in which the Nymphs of the mountains gave him his first bath, thereby mak- ing the springs sacred to that god, the Mercury of the Romans. He was brought up on a hill by the town of Acacesium near Mt. Cyllene, the highest altitude in all Arcadia, and the home of all-white black birds. There would seem to have been a tacit understanding that the Olympian home of the gods must be reserved entirely for grown-ups, as there is no account of any accouchement that occurred in the heaven of the heathen. The stork of the goddesses usually selected some local- ity near a convenient spring on a faraway mountain, where no infant cries could disturb the councils or the conversation of the adult divinities in Olympus. The cup bearer Ganymede, and Cupid, appear to have been the only small people allowed in the paradise of Mythology ; and Cupid, always represented in diminutive form at all stages of his existence, was in effect not a youngster, but a mature and mischievous dwarf divinity. The springs are possibly still somewhere in the hills south of the village of Fonia and west of the mountain called Skipezi, the Pheneus and the Geronteum of Pausanias. Pausanias; VIII. l6. 8 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS 4 (Enoe (Enoe's Well was fifteen stadia from Pheneus, and near the tomb of Chalcodon. The Nymph CEnoe was the nurse of Pan, and probably acted at some time in the same capacity for Zeus as there was in the temple at Tegea a carving representing her in charge of that god while he was still a babe. Pan the son of Hermes was born perfectly developed and neither grew nor changed in appearance afterwards. His mother fled in fright when she saw his hairy body with full size horns, tail and goat's feet; but the gods were particularly pleased with his unusual shape, and had him carefully cared for by Nymphs of whom CEnoe was his special and private nurse. As Pan's principal seats of worship were in Arcadia, it may be assumed that he was born in that district, and perhaps at this Well; it being apparently a nurse's per- quisite to have her name bestowed on the natal Spring, as in the cases of the niirses Neda, Hagno, and others. This Spring was northeast of and about two miles from where the village of Fonia is now located. Pausanias; VIII. 2d. 5 Tritonis Zeus having been born in Arcadia, and his brother Poseidon, and his son Hermes, he was inevitably drawn to that district when the most wonderful of all known births was about to take place — the birth of Athena from the head of Zeus, more sensational even than the so- called birth of Bacchus from the Thunderer's thigh would ARCADIA 9 have been if Semele had not, before that, presented the world with her fully formed infant. The marvel occurred at the fountain of Tritonis where afterwards was founded the town of Aliphera, named in honor of Alipherus, one of Lycaon's sons. The town had a temple of Athena, and a statue of her in bronze, of large size and of artistic merit, for they accorded her the most worship inasmuch as she was born and reared in that locality. They also celebrated a public festival for the goddess. That Athena, armed cap-^-pie, sprang from the head of Jove is common knowledge imbibed so early that few pause to wonder how she got into the god's head or to inquire about the details of the birth. As to the first query, it was through the family fond- ness for eating people. Jove, inheriting the cannibalistic proclivities of his father, devoured his first wife Metis, and at the momen- tous time he solicited the good offices of HephaBstus, who, well known as a blacksmith under his more frequently used name of Vulcan, merely exchanged his sledge for an axe, and deftly made an opening in Zeus' skull through which Athena immediately leapt with a hearty yell that indicates that Zeus was not the only one to feel the force of the axe's impact. In the Temple of Diana Alpheionia there was a picture by the Corinthian painter Cleanthes depicting the birth of Athena, the Minerva of the Romans, and the subject was still more grandly portrayed by Phidias in the sculptured front of the Parthenon on the Acropolis at Athens. It was disputed whether Tritonis refers to the date of the birth, the third of the month which was August ; or to an old word " trito " meaning head; and there was hardly lo GREECE; PELOPONNESUS any place having a Spring, or any body of water, called Tritonis, that did not claim to be Athena's birthplace. Ruins found on a hill called Nerovitza are said to be those of Aliphera. Pausanias; VIII. 26. 6 Linus The Spring of Linus, or Lechnus, was regarded with great favor by prospective mothers who believed that its waters might be employed to insure the well-being of children in the early stage of their development. Linus was, according to one account, a son of Hermes and the Arcadians may possibly have claimed that his birth took place at this Spring. He ranked with Orpheus and Musasus as musician and composer, and that Apollo killed him after a musical contest, as he killed Marsyas, might be considered good evidence of his ability. No clue seems to be extant as to the precise location of this Spring. Pliny; XXXI. 7. 7 Mt. Elaion The town of Phigalia was surrounded by mountains; on the left was Cotilius, and on the right Elaion, which was thirty stadia from the town. On the second moun- tain a warm Spring bubbled up in a grove of oak trees that concealed a cavern called the Cave of Black Demeter because the goddess, when she was grieving over the pony ARCADIA II Arion that belonged to Poseidon, went into mourning, appareled herself in black, and retired for a period to the cave behind the Spring. The effect of Rhea's deceit in describing Poseidon to Cronus as a foal would almost seem to have had an in- fluence upon the god's very existence, and to have con- nected him with horses in several ways that are quite foreign to the conception of him as the ruUng divinity of the sea. If such was really the case, it was but natural that when he desired to disguise himself he should have as- sumed the shape of a handsome horse, as he did before the birth of Arion, which colt according to one account was the pony that appeared out of the shaft of the salt Well that Poseidon opened at Athens in his contest with Athena for the title to that valuable piece of real estate. At the village of Tragoi near the ruins of Phigalia, French explorers found remains of baths whose masonry clearly showed the action of warm waters, but their sources, it was reported, had become dry in some distant period. Demeter, a sister of Zeus, was the Ceres of the Romans. Pausanias; VIII. 42. 8 Tegea In very ancient times, before the Trojan war, there was at Tegea a venerable temple to Athena Alea, and north of it there was a Spring near which Hercules in his rather rough way wooed the daughter of Aleus, Auge who became the mother of Telephus. Her father Aleus, not flattered by the rose covered alliance, enclosed the mother and son in a chest which 12 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS he threw into the sea. The Ocean, however, opposing the plans of the heartless parent, safely floated the human cargo to the shores of Asia Minor where Teuthras the king of the Mysians married the mother and brought up the son who in due time succeeded his adootive father as ruler of the kingdom. Telephus was wounded by Achilles at Troy and his cure is perhaps the first instance on record of the applica- tion of the Similia SimiUbus Curantur system of healing, for he recovered from the hurt on being treated with the rust of the spear that spitted him. The old structure at Tegea having been consumed by fire was superseded by a new and magnificent temple that excelled all other temples in the Peloponnesus for beauty and size. It combined Doric, Corinthian and Ionic archi- tecture, and was designed by Scopas, the Parian. The temple contained at one time much that was of unusual interest, but one conqueror after another, follow- ing along-used custom, carried off the best that the pred- ecessor had left. Augustus took away the ancient statue of the goddess for whom the temple was erected, to beautify his forum at Rome. He also abstracted the tusks of the Calydonian boar, one of which was suspended in Caesar's gardens, in the temple of Dionysus, and was two and a half feet in length. The hide of the boar was also preserved in the temple and was allowed to remain only because it had rotted with the lapse of time and was nearly devoid of hair. The despoilers left the bed of Athena, and also the armor of the widow Marpessa who led a company of women and won a battle against the Lacedaemonians under King Cherillus. Few Romans of leisure or patriotism, however, could have been found without affection for Arcadia, or a ARCADIA 13 perhaps pardonable desire to have a souvenir of the dis- trict which cradled one ancestor of Rome and coffined the other, Evander and Anchises. Evander the son of Hercules and a Nymph, the daugh- ter of Lado, lived at Pallantium a short distance from Tegea. Sixty years before the Trojan war he went from his home with a force of fellow villagers and founded another Pallantium in Italy, on the River Tiber where Rome is now. Time and tongues changed the name to Palatium, and then to Palatine which one of the seven hills still bears. Pallantium raised a temple to Evander, and the elder Antonine paid the place the homage of an Empire by raising it from a village to a town, and exempting it from taxes. Tegea was some three miles southeast of the present town Tripolitza. Pausanias; VIII. 47. 9 Leuconius Leucone was the aunt of Auge whose romance with Hercules, and subsequent vicissitudes, have been men- tioned. There was a Well near Tegea called, after her, Leuconius. Leucone's father Aphidas ruled over Tegea and the territory in its neighborhood; he was a grandson of Cal- listo, and was the father of Auge's father Aleus who was Leucone's brother. No author extant seems to have made mention of the incident that led to connecting the name of the princess with the Well. Pausanias; VIII. 44, 14 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS 10 The Blacksmith's Well Many interesting and some valuable discoveries have been made in the digging of wells. Lycurgus, while acting as guardian, for his nephew Leobotas, king of Sparta, having given the Lacedaemon- ians new laws and changed their customs, they prospered rapidly and in time became eager to show their superior- ity by conquests. They questioned the oracle as to where they should begin their campaign; and the reply they received was that the oracle would give them Tegea to measure out by the rod. They therefore sent an army against the Tegeans and, in perfect confidence as to the result, the army was supplied with fetters enough to secure and enslave all of the vanquished they might capture. The Spartans, however, on that occasion were worsted, and the Tegeans after fastening them with their own fetters set them to work measuring fields with rods, as the oracle had predicted. The fetters that were then used were preserved and were still to be seen in the temple at Tegea many centuries later. The Lacedaemonians, on consulting the oracle again, were told that it would be necessary for them to find the bones of Orestes before they could conquer the Tegeans. Orestes, the one who had murdered his mother Cly- temnestra, and whose friendship with Pylades is paral- leled only by that of Damon with Pythias, had been a king of the Lacedaemonians. He was killed by the bite of an Arcadian snake in the century of the Trojan war, and, as during the intervening four hundred years all trace of his sepulchre had been lost, it became necessary ARCADIA 15 to make another application to Delphi, and that brought the answer that they were to be found where two winds by hard compulsion blow; and stroke answers stroke, and woe lies on woe. Search was made everywhere, but unavailingly until one day a Spartan named Lichas, who was watching in palpable wonder the effects a blacksmith was producing at his forge, attracted the attention of the worker who said to him that he could show him something even more wonderful than the transformation he was watching, something he had found while he was digging his Well. This proved to be a coffin nearly eleven feet long which contained a skeleton of proportionate size; and Lichas, piecing together the different facts, concluded that the winds of the bellows, the anvil and the hammer, and the iron (as a weapon) a woe to mankind, all agreed with the oracle's description — and he surmised that the huge coffin contained the very bones that all Sparta was in search of. After many subterfuges, the Spartans having osten- tatiously banished Lichas in order that he might seem to have an excuse for taking up his residence in Tegea, he managed to rob the blacksmith of the bones and carry them to Sparta. The result was an immediate change in the luck and fortunes of the Lacedaemonians who not only became superior to the Tegeans but were able to subdue the greater part of Peloponnesus. The search for the bones was a long one, but it was continued with true Spartan pertinacity as more than two tedious centuries elapsed between the fettering of the Spartans and their defeat of the Tegeans in 560 B.C. when the bones found in the Well had become their talisman. Tegea was one of the oldest towns of Arcadia, and re- ceived its name from Tegeates a son of Lycaon; but there i6 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS are now hardly any remains of it visible, and neither the Well of the Blacksmith nor the long-cherished fetters are among them. Herodotus; I. 67. II A Well at Phigalia Hercules and Lepreus had a friendly contest to see which could draw the most water from a Well before be- coming exhausted. This trial resulted in the death of Lepreus, and, as he was buried at Phigalia, in the southwestern part of Arcadia, it is probable that the Well was in that town; a location that is also indicated by another feature which was introduced into the contest to determine which one could outeat the other, for the Phigalians were notorious for their excesses at table and, among themselves, rated a man's valiancy according to the amount of food he could consume. Admirers of Hercules claimed that he showed more wonderful power in what he did for pleasure at the court of King Thestius, and in eating whenever opportunity offered, than he exhibited in any of his twelve compulsory labors; but, although the cormorant had been assigned to him as a symbol of his voracity, Hercules was not able to eat an ox any sooner than Lepreus did. He, however, easily won the contest at the Well, as also that with the discus and in a drinking bout, and, at the end, in a per- sonal combat, in the course of which Lepreus lost his life. This Well has no doubt been filled in by the ruins of PhigaHa of which only some traces of walls are left near the village of Pavlitza on the banks of the Neda. Athenseus; X. ■^, Pausanias; V. S- ARCADIA 17 12 The Jay's Well Thirty stadia from the town of Methydrium there was a Spring on the side of Mt. Ostracina, and not far from it a cave where Alcimedon used to dwell. He had a daughter Phialo who unknown to her father contracted an alliance with Hercules and who was driven from the cave with her son ^Echmagoras as soon as the child was born. She was bound to a tree on the mountain in sight of the Spring, and the sudden transfer from the warmth of the cave caused the baby to wail in discomfort for several hours. An imitative Jay learning the iterated wail repeated it so naturally as he flitted about that Hercules, searching the forest for Phialo, took the bird's voice for the child's, and following the sound was led to the Spring and freed the mother from her bonds with [little time to spare to save the life of the boy. And from that occurrence the Well was called after the bird. They who attributed the infant's rescue to the mimick- ing of a Magpie called the Well Cissa. Methydrium is supposed to have been somewhere within ten miles of the village of Nimnitza in a south- easterly direction. Pausantas; VIII. 12. 13 Lymax River The opportunity that Arcadia offered streams to fall into the ground at one place only to be forced up again at another gave rise to differences of opinion about the real source of the River Lymax. It was said by one 1 8 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS writer to come from a Spring on Mt. Cotilius forty stadia from Phigalia. Another authority, however, disputed that statement because the water from that Spring flowed only a short distance and then dropped out of sight. But unfor- tunately he neither advanced any view of his own as to where the Lymax rose, nor made any inquiry about the matter in the neighborhood where the question might have been settled, for after running only twelve stadia from Phigalia the Lymax definitively came to an end by drowning itself in the river Neda, not far from where there were some hot baths. The Lymax was so called because Rhea threw the lymata into it after the birth of Zeus at the Spring of Neda. The Spring of the short stream has been located in a wild and desolate glen on the mountain a half mile south- west of a temple of Apollo, one of the best preserved fanes of Greece, the frieze of which is now in the British Museum. Pausanias; VIII. 41. 14 Melangeia The Springs of Melangeia were on the western side of Mt. Alesitun, by the road called Climax which ran from Argos to Mantineia along the banks of the River Inachus. The waters of the Springs were carried to Mantineia by an aqueduct some portions of which have survived to the present time. Their site is marked by the modern village of Pikerni, an Albanian word that is translated as "Abounding in Springs." Pausanias; VIII. 6. ARCADIA 19 15 Mt. Alesium Mt. Alesivun rose above the town of Mantineia, and at the extreme end of the mountain a temple of Poseidon had been erected in early times by Trophonius, of oracle fame, and his brother. (See No. 137.) One of the ntimerous marvels of Arcadia was a sea water Spring in this temple on a mountain in the center of a country that had not a single inch of sea coast. The salt beds of Silesia or Syracuse, and their cause, were unknown in those days, and a salt water Spring then could only be a flow from the ocean; and this Spring was therefore looked upon as supernatural. The temple, as usual, was in ruins, but the Emperor Adrian regarded them and the Spring with so much ven- eration that he had a new temple built around the old one, with strict orders that no portion of the old ruins should be disturbed. In view of the awesome Spring and the commands of the Emperor, it was thought sufficient to stretch a string about the new construction work to keep intruders out. But one spectator, .^Epytus, impelled by bravado, boldly broke the string and passed the forbidden bound- ary, only to be stricken blind by the outraged god who caused the salt water to spurt into the eyes of the impious intruder. Pausanias; VIII. lo. 16 Well of Alalcomenea Near and northerly from the ruins of the old town of Mantineia was the Well of Alalcomenea. 20 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS In its neighborhood reposed the dust of two of the ancient world's prominent characters, in the tomb of Penelope ; and in the sepulchre of Anchises, the father of ^neas, who, after his famous escape pickaback from the Trojan conflagration, separated for some reason from ^neas and going to Arcadia died there and was buried at the foot of the mountain thereafter called Anchisia. With Penelope's resting place there was connected a little-known story of that patient lady's last days; to the effect that Odysseus after his return from Troy accused her of having encouraged the host of notorious suitors that nearly eat him out of house and home, and, not- withstanding her tearful denials, drove her away, un- mindful of Circe, Calypso, and Enippe the mother of more than a dozen of his children. After wandering dis- tractedly from place to place she migrated to Mantineia where she died and was buried. Pausanias; VIII. 13. 17 Well of Orchomenus Beyond the tomb of Anchises and on the top of a hill was the old town of Orchomenus, below which the newer town was built. Among its notable sights were this Well from which they got their water, and the temples of Poseidon and of Aphrodite ; and a wooden statue of Artemis set in a large cedar tree ! The village of Kalpaki now occupies the site of the old lower town, and just below it is a copious fountain thai is still a notable sight. Pausanias; VIII. 13. ARCADIA 21 i8 The Wells Called Tene^ The Wells called Teneae were beyond Orchomenus and the tombs of Anchises and King Aristocrates ; the king was stoned to death in 640 B.C. by his subjects, the Or- chomenians; the cause of the demise of Anchises in Ar- cadia is not given, but his death in Asia Minor was attributed to lightning. Some distance beyond the Wells, the road passed a bubbling Fountain in a ravine at the end of which was the town of Caryas, the site of which is still in dispute though there are perhaps few cities in the world that do not possess several statues of the ancient town's inhabit- ants which are seen wherever columns are carved in the form of females; such caryatides represent the women of Caryse who were all doomed to slavery and the support of others, in punishment for the adherence of the people to the Persians after the battle of Thermopylae. All of the men of the town were killed by the loyal Greeks of the neighborhood. The various sites that have been assigned to Caryae are in the neighborhood of Arakhova. Pausanias; VIIL 13. 19 NoNACRis, Water of the Styx On the road northeast from Pheneus lay the ruins of Nonacris, a small place that took name from the wife of Lycaon; but even in the dawn of the Christian Era it was difficult to trace any portion of the ruins. Beyond some vestiges of them, however, a very high 22 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS cliff overhung the river Crathis, and from that cliff a Spring of poisonous water dripped drop by drop upon a natural shelf of stone below it, and oozing through the shelf fell at intervals into the river that ran beneath. Those drops the Greeks called the Water of the Styx; they were deadly both to man and beast, so that to have "taken a draught of the Styx" became one of the many early euphemisms for physical dissolution. The constant dripping wore a hollow in the shelf of stone large enough to accommodate some small fish that were as deadly as the water; and, to protect both the hungry and the thirsty from this death trap, the hollow was surrounded with a fence of masonry. Glass and crystal and porcelain; and articles made of stone; and pottery, were broken by the water. And things made of horn, bone, iron, brass, lead, tin, silver, and amber melted when put into that water. Gold also suffered from it. A horse's hoof alone, or a mule's was proof against the water of the Styx. Homer when speaking of the Styx usually refers to the river which issued from a rock in Hades; but in his oath of Hera the water of the Styx she swears by is none other than this water near the ruins of Nonacris, for 'as used by the gods it formed the original acid test ; besides playing havoc with containers of all kinds, it had mysterious and uncanny properties that made it the bane of even the gods themselves. It was exceedingly cold and could throw a divinity into a stupor that lasted a year; and, when a quarrel arose among the immortals and the ver- acity of one of them was impugned, it was the custom of Jove to send Iris with a golden ewer for the cold and im- perishable water of Styx, which on her return was made use of as an infallible test for truth. If the statement. ARCADIA 23 repeated on oath over the surface of the water, was false, the perjiirer lay breathless for the following twelve months. Then more and severer troubles ensued, one after the other, and the deceitful divinity was exiled from the gods' councils and feasts during a period of nine years. The water was said to be good during the day and to exert its evil effects at night. There was an old tradition that Alexander the Great died from this poisonous water. Voltaire following Pliny asserts that Aristotle sent a bottle of it to Alex- ander; that it was extremely cold, and that he who drank of it instantly died, and he adds, with unnoticed nullification, that Alexander drank of it and died in six days. Alexander's death before the age of 33 is commonly attributed to excessive wine drinking, he having, with twenty guests at table, drunk to the health of every per- son in the company and then pledged them severally. After that, calling for Hercules' cup, which held six bottles, he quaffed all its contents and even drained it a second time; then, falling to the floor, he was seized with a violent fever which ended in death. There is also another version to the effect that Cas- sander, the eldest of Antipater's sons, brought from Greece a poison that lolas his younger brother threw into Alexander's huge cup, of which he was the bearer, and that this poison was the acrimonious and corroding distillation from the cliff above the Crathis, and was brought from Greece to Babylon for its horrid purpose in a vessel made out of the hoof of a mule. Leake conjectures that Nonacris may have occupied the site of modern Mesorougi, where two slender cas- cades dropping 500 feet, as Pausanias said, from the 24 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS highest precipice in Greece, unite and flow into the Cra- this River. The present day inhabitants of the neighborhood speak of the streams as The Black Waters and The Terrible Waters, and still attribute to them some of the un- canny properties with which they were endowed by the ancients. It is some slight relief from the gloom engendered by reading about this doleful neighborhood to find that it also produced something to mitigate evil ; that being the Moly plant which had the power of neutralizing the effects of the most potent sorcerer's spells. Whether or not this marvelous plant grew anywhere except in Homer's imagination, the name is still applied to what is also called Sorcerer's Garlic. Strabo; VIII, 8. Pausanias; VIII. 17-18. Ovid; Metamorphoses; XV. In 333- 20 The Spring of M^nalus If the power of the Moly plant had not been limited no transformation would have occurred at the Holm-oak Spring of Maenalus, and there would have been a less brilliant conclusion to the tale of Callisto, the nymph of Nonacris, which, written in those stars that never set in the north temperate zone, may nightly be read in the unclouded sky. It was due to more than personal eccentricity that Callisto was the most favored nymph in Diana's virgin train, for even Jupiter regarded her with more than ordinary favor, and accorded her unusual attentions. One day, having hunted in the woods a thousand beasts of the chase, the weary and heated party came ARCADIA 25 shortly after noon to a sacred grove on Mt. Maenalus, a grove thick with many a Holm-oak which no generation had ever cut, and in the midst of which there was a Spring of ice cold water whence a stream ran flowing with its murmuring noise, and borne along the sand worn fine by its action. Diana, calling upon her train to follow her example, impetuously plunged into the refreshing waters ; and only Callisto was tardy in joining in the revels. Diana, on the spur of the moment, angered beyond the limits of friendship, ordered her to leave the throng and never more rejoin the virgin troup. Misfortunes often lockstep in their eagerness to over- take their victim, and hardly had some months of modera- tion come to poor Callisto's grief, when angry Juno began to overwhelm her with a wifely rage, going even to the extent of personal chastisement, during which she caught her by the hair, threw her on the ground, and, crying, "I will spoil that shape of thine by which, mischievous one, thou didst charm my husband," changed her into a shaggy she-bear. As such she wandered through the woods for fifteen years, until a day when her own son. Areas, scanning the thickets for game, espied her bulky form. He had drawn his bow to nigh its full extent, and with unerring aim, was all unconsciously about to kill his mother, when Jove snatched them both away and placed them, carried through vacant space with a rapid wind, in the heavens and made them neighboring constellations. Juno, made still more furious at this elevation, tried in vain to get the act annulled. Then she visited the Ocean, and said, "Another has possession of Heaven in my stead. May I be deemed untruthful if, when the 26 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS night has made the world dark, you see not in the highest part of heaven stars but lately thus honored to my affliction; there where the least and most limited circle surrounds the extreme part of the axis of the world." And Ocean at her entreaty agreed never to let the bears bathe in his waters. Hence the mariners of the Mediterranean have with Milton oft outwatched the Bear that never sets upon that sea. Perhaps there were few more useful fancies among the ancients than those which, by linking a pleasing conceit with a constellation, foster an interest in astronomy, and start and cement an acquaintance with the celestial spheres. And it might be wished that no one had ever attempted to lessen the interest in such myths, by the easy and wide amplification of the very prosaic cat-and- canary idea that a change into an animal is merely a mode of saying that someone has been devoured, a theory that should not be applied, especially in the case of Callisto; for the unfortunate girl inherited the tendency, her Father Lycaon having changed into a wolf. Callisto's family made Arcadia ; her grandfather Pelas- gus was its first settler, indigenous and brought forth by Black Earth. He was a man of ideas and initiative, the inventor of huts and pigskin clothing. He also intro- duced refinements in food, and taught his people the superiority of acorns over grass. Lycaon, his son (contemporary with Cecrops), Cal- listo's father, made greater improvements and built the first town, Lycosura. Under her son Areas the country made further ad- vances; he introduced corn and bread, and taught spin- ning and weaving ; and Arcadia is the land of Areas. CaUisto's youngest brother OSnotrus was the first to ARCADIA 27 found a Grecian colony abroad, and became King of CEnotria in Italy. And for a long time other members of her family, female as well as male, supplied names for towns, and for natural features in the home district of Arcadia. Near the ruins of Maenalus there was a "winter tor- rent" called Elaphus, which may have been the "ice-cold water" through which Diana learned Callisto's secret. There are differing conjectures about the position Maenalus occupied, but several agree in surmising that it was on the right bank of the Helisson River opposite the village of Davia. Ovid. Metamorphoses; II. Fable 5. Ovid. Fasti; JI. In 155. Paus- anias; VIII. 1-3; 36. 21 Stymphelus The great grandson of Areas who was the son of Cal- listo founded the city of Stymphelus around the Spring of that name and his own. This copious Spring supplied a marsh, a river, the city, and even another city, for in later years the emperor Adrian conveyed its water to far-away Corinth. In winter the marsh water ran into the river, but in simmier the marsh was dry and the Spring alone supplied the current of the river, which, with the characteristic trait of Arcadian streams, sought and found a way into the earth and traveled through it to Argolis, where on emerging it was called the Erasinus. Another version about the marsh was that it was drained in one day by a cavity opened when a hunter, chasing a deer, jumped or dived into the marsh with all the impetus of his headlong pursuit. 28 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS The marsh came into prominence from its being the scene of the sixth labor of Hercules. The task assigned to him in this case was to destroy the man-eating birds that had congregated around the marsh; they were lofty^ cranelike, cannibalistic terrors, more powerful than ostriches, whose straight and lancelike beaks could pierce a coat of mail, and they were surmised to have flown over from their native habitat in Arabia. The perilous feat of attacking and overcoming this savage and vicious flock was reduced by the detractors who camped on the trail of Hercules to a simple ruse — to frightening them away with the noise of rattles, so that they took flight and probably returned to their haunts in Arabia where perhaps they became the rocs of Aladdin's tale. Hercules on his way to Colchis with the Argonauts was again attacked by these vicious birds which flew over the Argo and, like arrow shooting aeroplanes, showered the crew with sharp pointed feathers from the security of the sky. (See No. 278.) Wooden representations of the birds were placed on the roof of the town temple at Stymphelus, and at the rear of the fane there were white stone figures with birdlike legs and women's bodies that were called Stymphehdes. These appeared also on the city's coinage. Hera the wife of Zeus was said to have been reared at Stymphelus when, after having been swallowed by her father Cronus, she, with a number of his other children, was released by a spasm of emesis produced by Neptune's daughter Metis. Later, after her marriage to Zeus, she returned to the town again, possibly to recover from the strain of being hung to the sky with two anvils tied to her heels; or, maybe to escape some of the manual measures of correction that, according to Homer, the ARCADIA 29 divinity was in the habit of frequently threatening, and sometimes carrying out to preserve his husbandly authority. The ruins of Stymphelus are near the settlement called Zaraki, and still include the copious Spring. Pausanias; VHI. 21-22. Apollodorus; I. 3. § 6. Iliad; XV., li. 17. 22 The Clitorian Spring The town of Clitor, founded by poor Callisto's great- grandson Clitor, was in a plain surrounded by hills of moderate height, and the Clitorian fountain, the curiosity of the neighborhood and of the district, rose in a suburb, a settlement of which not even any ruins were visible as far back as eighteen hundred years ago. But when the modern exhumer of towns reached the locality, the Spring, still gushing forth from the hillside on which the suburb once straggled, directed him where to dig, and the long buried ruins again came to light and, in their turn, established the identity of the fountain that was impregnated with the medicines of Melampus and became a curiosity to the common people and a wonder to the wise, for even Varro "the wisest of the Romans" and the author of 490 books mentions the peculiar quality of this Spring, which was such that whoever quenched his thrist at it forthwith hated wine, and, in his sobriety, took pleasure only in pure water. There were several speculations as to the cause of the fountain's remarkable virtue, the most interesting of which attributes it to the thoughtless act of the physician Melampus, the son of Amithaon, who was called in to attend the four daughters of Proetus, king of Argos, when 30 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS Venus inflicted them with madness because they had boasted of their superior beauty. These lovely young ladies, Mera, Euryale, Lysippe and Iphianassa, became afflicted with the hallucination that they were ungainly cows. Melampus treated them suc- cessfully, and completely restored their minds, though the youngest and prettiest lost her heart to the physician and became his wife. In the treatment of these cases the herb hellebore was employed by Melampus, and it is, therefore, called melampodiiun. On the recovery of the daughters, the unused herbs and charms that were employed in the cure of their minds were thrown into the Clitorian Spring and tinctured its waters. It might, however, perhaps be wished, for the sake of the memories of these poor royal ladies, that the subse- quent benefits of the Clitorian waters were not confined solely to dipsomaniacs. Pausanias mentions a belief held by some that Melam- pus cast into the river Anigrus the purifying materials through which he freed from madness the daughters of Proetus, which materials were supposed to be the cause of the bad odors of the Anigrus' waters. But one's faith in Ovid's version may be kept intact in view of the opin- ion, held by others, that the Anigrus owed its evil odor to the Hydra poison which the Centaur Chiron washed out of a foot wound accidentally inflicted by one of the arrows of Hercules. The ruins of Clitor are now called Paleop61i, meaning the old city, and are distant about three miles from a village which still bears the name of the ancient town. They lie in the modern eparchy of Kalavryta, south of the highest peak of the Aroanian, now called the ARCADIA 31 Azanian mountains, on the summits of which the daughters of Proetus wandered in their miserable condition. The fountain was probably the source of the stream of the same name that within a mile of the town ran into the river Aroanius, or as it was called later in its course, Olbius, the remarkable vocal properties of whose vari- egated fish were the cause of little less wonder than the marvelous fountain itself, for they were said to sing like thrushes after sundown. Pausanias, without considering that few birds sing any more after sunset than the silentest sort of fish, sat patiently on the river bank to hear these ichthyoid thrushes, without, however, being able to leave to posterity any corroboration of the stories of the nature fakirs of the Arcadians. The founder of the town lost his life through the bite of a worm as peculiar as either the fish or the fountain; it is described as small, ash colored, and marked with irregular stripes; it had a broad head supported by a narrow neck, a large belly and a small tail ; and it walked sideways like a crab. Ovid. Metamorphoses; XV. In. 322. Vitruvius; VIII. 3. 23 Crathis The Crathis, the river that received the homeopathic triturations that filtered through the rock of Nonacris, had its Springs in the Crathis mountain, and flowed into the sea near JEg^ a deserted town of Achaia. Someone from the banks of the Crathis apparently went to Italy and fondly transferred his na'tive river's name to the stream in Bruttii. 32 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS The mingling of the waters is said to have suggested the name, which means mixture. Strabo; VIII. 7. 24 Well Alyssus Two stadia from Cynastha there was a Well of cold water and a plane tree growing by it. Whoever was bitten by a mad dog, or had received any other hurt, if he drank of that water got cured, and, for that reason, they called it the Well Alyssus. It was pointed out for the benefit of the pessimistic that the gods always furnished a compensation for mis- fortunes, and that there were Springs like the Alyssus provided to cure many ills, as well as harmful water like that of the Styx. Fortunately, to the benefit of those not living near this Spring, it was discovered that its properties were also possessed by the plant Alysson whose name, expressing in one word Depriving of Madness, came from a reputa- tion that is now enjoyed by the Pasteur treatment for hydrophobia. Such as were bitten by mad dogs were assured that they would not become rabid if they took this plant in vinegar, and wore it as an amulet. The modern name for the plant conveys little suggestion of the virtues it was formerly supposed to possess — it is now called the wild madder. Many Springs that had no medicinal or curative powers themselves, under ordinary conditions, seem to have fostered the growth of plants that possessed such powers. There was the Lingua (Wildenow) whose roots re- duced to ashes and beaten up with lard, made from a black and barren sow, cured Alopecy when the mixture ARCADIA 33 was rubbed on the patient's head while the sun shone on it. The Onobrychus (Sainfoin) cured strangury when it was reduced to powder and sprinkled with white wine. Centaury (Felwort) was a purge for all noxious sub- stances; it was used in the form of an extract made from leaves gathered in the autumn and steeped for eighteen days in water. Adiantum (Maiden-hair fern) was so called because it had an aversion to water and dried up when sprinkled with it. Nevertheless it was always found in the grottos of Springs. It received its Latin name of Saxifragum (Stone-breaking) because of its efficacy in breaking and expelling calculi of the bladder. It was also an antidote for the venom of serpents and spiders. It relieved head- ache; cured Alopecy; dispersed sores and ulcers; and a decoction of it was good for asthma, and for troubles of the liver, spleen and gall, and for dropsy, and half a dozen other affections. Bcchion or Tussilago is not mentioned medicinally, though its growth anywhere was an infallible sign that a Spring of water lay below. But independently of surrounding plants, or of mineral contents, all Springs and Wells had healing properties when their waters were used under certain conditions; thus, according to Artemon, epilepsy could be cured with the water of any Spring, if it was drawn at night and drunk from the skull of a man who had been slain and whose body remained unburned. For Tertian Fever, it was recommended to take equal parts of water from three Wells, using a new earthen vessel and administering the combination to the patient when the paroxysm came on; part of the water being first poured out as a pious libation. 34 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS Another good office performed by Wells was their silent prediction of the occurrence of earthquakes in advance of which the water became turbid and emitted an un- pleasant odor. This faculty became known at a very early date, for Pherecydes, the first man who wrote any- thing in prose, foretold an earthquake as soon as he ob- served these conditions in some water he had drawn out of a Well ; and he is said to have obtained his knowledge from the secret books of the Phoenicians. On the other hand, Wells whose waters were perfectly good sometimes became suddenly poisonous because salamanders had accidentally fallen into them; in conse- quence of which whole families were sometimes made dangerously ill, for Wells were often used as ice-boxes by sinking into them vessels containing fruits and other foods. The site of Cynaetha, which was a quarter of a mile from the Spring, is now marked by the village of Kalavryta. Pliny; XXIV. 57. Pausanias; VIII. 19. 25 Lusi At Lusi there was a fountain in which land mice lived and dwelt. This marvelous story appears to have originated in a statement made by Aristotle. Lusi was northwest of Clitor, and eight miles from Cynaetha; near its supposed site there are now three fountains, but none of them contains any specimens of the family of amphibious mice. Pliny, XXXL 10. ARCADIA 35 26 Menelaus' A little above the town of Caphyae there was a well and by it a large and beautiful plane tree called Menelaus'. Although the Arcadian contingent that went to the siege of Troy had to go in other people's boats, some of the preliminaries of the campaign were arranged in that navy less country. Menelaus went there to muster a part of the army and stayed there long enough to plant the hardy tree. He seems to have had a fondness for planes, and if there was not one already growing where he stopped he supplied the deficiency without delay. The tree at Caphyae had no such momentous connec- tion with the fate of Troy as the one at Aulis (see Aulis) had in the dragon incident while the fleet was awaiting a favorable wind, but it was understood to be the fifth oldest tree in the world a thousand and five hundred years after it was planted ; the others, in their order, being the Willow in the temple of Hera at Samos; the Oak at Dodona; the Olive in the Acropolis and the Laurel of the Syrians, who claimed for it the third place. Caphyae is now represented by the small village called Khotiissa. Pausanias; VIII. 33. 27 Philip's Well A few miles beyond Arne stretched the plain of Argum where were the ruins of Nestane, a mountain village by which Philip had encamped. The outlines of the ruins could be traced more than 36 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS four hundred years afterwards about the Spring that the commander used, and that was thereafter always asso- ciated with his name. The Commander was that Philip II, the son of Amyn- tas and the most valorous of all the Macedonian Kings, who, himself "Always Great, " was the father of Alexan- der the Great. 2250 years before the term was invented, he was a scrap of paper diplomatist, and preferred bribery to battles. The effect that his example had on the moral fiber of the country can be seen, although one can onlj' speculate how much longer the Grecian structure would have lasted if he had not loosened so many stones of its foundations in the 46 years before he was assassinated. A village called Tzipiana now occupies the site of Nestane. Pausanias; VIII. 7. 28 - Well of the Meliast^ The Spring called the Well of the Meliastas was seven stadia from Melangea. The Meliastae had a Hall of Dionysus, near the Well and in his celebrations they held orgies. They had also a temple to Black Aphrodite. There have been concessions made by statuaries that were seemingly not consistent with the principles of accurate Art such as representing Venus for Africans with the complexion of its connoisseurs of female beauty, and carving statues of the River Nile out of black stone instead of white: the Black Venus of the Meliastae was, however, in no such category, but was a sincere attempt to express a custom by color, and to convey the idea that ARCADIA 37 while men devote the day to making lucre they have only black night to give to making love. This Well was in the neighborhood of the present village of Pikerni which abounds in Springs whose waters were anciently conveyed by an aqueduct to Mantineia; some remains of the aqueduct have been discovered, and others may yet be brought to light that will designate which particular Spring was the one appropriated by the Nymphs. Pausanias; VIII. 6. 29 Olympias The Spring called Olympias was between the river Alpheus and the ruins of the town of Trapezus, and not far from the river Bathos. This Spring flowed only every other year, and fire came out of the ground near it, and the people there sacrificed to Thunder and Lightning and to Storms. The Arcadians were fond of correcting a common error, the belief that Thrace was the battle ground of the war between the gods and the giants, and they pointed to this Spring as marking the site of the contest, with which they were sufficiently familiar to add that the giants engaged in the battle had dragons instead of feet. Trapezus received its name, meaning table, from an early and unheeded expression of Zeus' disapproval of human sacrifices, for it was at that place that the offended god overturned a table on which Lycaon had laid meat of human beings for his entertainment. The people of the town claimed to have founded the city of the same name on the Euxine Sea, which, as Tre- bizond, was the residence of Anthony Hope's Princess. 38 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS The modern village Mavria lies below the site of the Arcadian Trapezus. Pausanias; VIII. 29. 30 Al-PHEUS The first source of the Alpheus river was at Phylace; it was the chief river of the Morea, both in fact and in fable, and in its short course of less than one hundred miles it frequently changed its character, being a Spring at one place, a river at another, and often an unseen underground watercourse. It was a virile and impulsive stream and when it finally reached the Ionic Sea at Cellene, even the Adriatic though a big and stormy sea could not bar its passage or change its nature, and it continued to flow through the salt water until it. reached the shore of Ortygia, in Sicily, where it bubbled up in the form it assiimed at its birth — ending its course as it began it, in the shape of a Spring. Not far from its source, at a place called the Meeting of the Waters, it was joined by another river in company with which it traveled until it dropped with a loud roar- ing sound into the earth in the Plain of Tegea. It reappeared five stadia from Asea near the source of the Eurotas with which it united; after flowing together some twenty stadia, they retired through a cavity to an underground bed and, while out of sight, separated, the Eurotas coming up in Laconia and the Alpheus making its reappearance at Pegae in Megalopolis. The Asean Spring of the Alpheus is now called Frango- vrysi, Frank Spring, and gushes out copiously on the present Mt. Kravari near what the Fountain has located as the ruins of Asea. ARCADIA 39 Where the streams flowed together they acted as very intelHgent common carriers though, unfortunately for general merchandise shippers in the zone, only for the delivery of crowns; but these, when a certain charm had been uttered over them, had merely to be cast into the common channel in order to infallibly insure their ap- pearance as desired, either in the Eurotas or the Alpheus when they reemerged separately. The efficacy of the charm in causing crowns to float might seem to be quite as notable as its power to direct their course ; but the crowns were not of metal ; they were garlands which at first were made of ivy or myrtle, and called crowns because revelers bound them about their heads to ward off aches that might follow wine drinking- They were invented as ligatures by the man who first reflected upon the relief he felt when pressing his hands about his head after a carouse. The crude crown was improved by interweaving herbs with a scent that offset the fumes of wine, and then beautified by the addition of colored flowers that made it an ornamental garland. After one period of seclusion the Alpheus rose as a Spring called The Wells in a deep ravine near Tricolini ; and after another disappearance it came to light again at Carnasium in Messenia and absorbed two new rivers. By the time it had reached the Adriatic it had become a plethoric stream, a notable River Trust, that had ab- sorbed a score or more of competing tributaries and con- trolled the product of 74% of the Springs of Arcadia which it distributed to the ultimate consumer, the Sea. It passed a third of its existence in the district of Elis, and at Olympia two altars were erected to it. In that neighborhood it was held in special veneration; women of Elis were forbidden to cross it on certain days under penalty of being hurled from Mt. Typasum, and at one 40 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS time even flies were allowed access to only one side of it, being driven from the Temple side by a special sacrifice that Hercules instituted, although it is not explained why the fresh carcass of the ox in this sacrifice was sus- pended on the other side of the stream. Its banks were poted for the production of the wild olive tree, and towards the end of its course in Elis it flowed through flowery groves filled with many images of the gods, and many lovely little temples to the goddesses. Its early name was bestowed on it from its beneficent property of curing a form of leprosy called alphi. At its source, the Alpheus is now called Saranda; then, the Karitena, and, after its junction with the ancient Ladon, the Rufea ; and its old time vagaries may still be observed where, the ancient names having been changed, Phylace has become Krya Vrysi; Asea, Frangovrysi; and Pegae, Marmara. The love that led this fresh water stream to undertake its long journey through the salty sea is referred to in the account of the Spring of Arethusa. (No. 486.) Pau:3anias; VIII. 54. 31 Ladon The Springs of the river Ladon were sixty stadia from the town of Clitor, and fifty from Lucaria; it was said that they were reappearances of the water of the marsh at Pheneus which escaped below ground there through pits under the mountain. The Ladon excelled all rivers of Greece for the beauty of its stream, and it was famous for its legend of Daphne with whom Leucippus fell in love, and to whom he made his advances in the guise of a girl. Letting his hair grow ARCADIA 41 long, and adorning himself in the garb of a maiden, he succeeded in winning so much of Daphne's friendship that Apollo became jealous and brought about his ruin by a mental suggestion to Daphne while she and her girl companions, together with Leucippus, were one day swimming in the Ladon. It thus suddenly came into Daphne's head to start so strenuous a romp in the water that when the joyous party came out of the river their clothing was little more than tatters. Thereupon their joy gave place to furious anger and they attacked Leucippus so viciously with their imple- ments of the chase that he was overwhelmed and killed. The Ladon is now known as the Rufea, and the same name is applied to the Alpheus after it receives the old Ladon; before the junction, the Alpheus is called the Karitena. The Island of Crows was formed where the Ladon flowed into the Alpheus. Pausanias; VIII. 20. 32 Erymanthus The Erymanthus River had its sources in the mountain Lampea, which was sacred to Pan, and was a part of Mt. Erymanthus so named after a hunter who, according to Homer, was a lover of Lampea. Among other wild beasts of this river's neighborhood there was a boar which so much exceeded all others in size and strength that the killing of it was made one of the labors of Hercules, and was the fourth that he accomplished. Another big pig, however, has become more prominent because the chase of it was made the occasion of a large 42 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS gathering like the family parties that used to make up an old fashioned Southern fox-hunt; the 61ite of Mythology, both men and women, met together on that occasion by the river Evenus in ^tolia. The party included Theseus who destroyed the Crommyon sow, the dam of the Caly- donian boar that the party assembled to hunt, and finally killed. Nearly all of the parts of the Calydonian boar except the bacon were preserved for ages in places wide apart; but of the Erymanthian brute only a few teeth seem to have been kept as souvenirs. These were stored up by the people of Cumae in the temple of Apollo; but a well informed ancient antiquarian said of them that there was very little probability that they were genuine. The curious association of this name of Erymanthus with boars is seen in the story of Venus and Adonis, in which Apollo, metamorphosed into a wild boar, killed Adonis because Venus had blinded Apollo's son Eryman- thus for having seen her in the bath. The Erymanthus was absorbed by the Alpheus two and a half miles below where the latter received the Ladon. Pausanias; VIII. 24. 33 Brentheates River On the right of a large plain between Gortys and Megalopolis were the ruins of the town of Brenthe from which the river Brentheates flowed to join the Alpheus five stadia farther on. This little stream, less than a mile long, is now the modern brook called Karitena. Pausanias; VIII. 28. ARCADIA 43 34 BuPHAGUs River The river Buphagus rose at Buphagium beyond Aliphera. This river flowed into the Alpheus after forming the boundary between the districts of Megalopolis and Hersea. Buphagus offended Artemis and she, in her quick- tempered way, shot and killed him with an arrow. As her anger was caused by persistent attentions that she was not disposed to favor, the victim was probably not that nephew of Rhea's who bore the same name. The identity of the Buphagus has not been agreeably established. Pausanias; VIII. 26. 35-40 Helisson River The river Helisson rose in a village of the same name and flowed through the city of Megalopolis which it divided into two parts. The Helisson was indebted to no less than five Springs in the town of Megalopolis for additions to the volume of its current : (36) one that had its rise in the hill Scolitas within the city walls; (37) the Spring Bathyllus which came out of another small hill in the city; (38) a perennial Spring that rose in the theater which was one of the most remarkable theaters in Greece; 44 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS (39) a Spring that was held sacred to Dionysus and which appeared not very far from the theater; (40) a fifth Spring that rose from a third hil with- in the city hmits, near a temple of ^sculapius in which were stored the bones of a giant. The first two Springs were on the north side of the river, and the last three were on the south side of it. Thirty stadia from Megalopolis the Helisson gave itself up to the Alpheus river. Megalopolis was founded by Epaminondas 370 years B.C. Planned, as its name indicates, on a huge scale that was to extend for twenty-three miles, forty town- ships were drawn upon to start its population; and it became the capital of Arcadia. The road that led from Megalopolis to Messene fol- lowed the path taken by Orestes after murdering his mother, and temples and mounds marked the sites of various incidents that occurred during his passage; they indicated, where he became insane; where he cut off his hair; where he bit off his finger; and finally, where he gained his senses. The modern village of Sinanu has grown up among the old city's ruins; these were examined in 1834, when all of the five Springs gave efficient aid in identifying the places of the ancient structures with which they were connected. A deep pile of dampened rubbish was found to conceal a Spring which led to the discovery of the foundations of the theater where it occupied a prominent position in the orchestra. And the other Springs were equally useful in pointing out to the excavators where the temples stood, and in giving the names of the hills. Pausanias, VIU 30-32. ARCADIA 45 LUSIUS-GORTYNIUS On the borders of Methydrium at Thisoa were the sources of one of the coldest of all rivers. It was known as the Gortynius, except at the Springs, where it was called Lusius because Zeus had been bathed in it after his birth near the Spring of Neda. The name suggests that this was an extra bath given by Thisoa, one of the infant's three nurses. This two-name river was another tributary of the Alpheus, and the place where they united was called Rhaeteas. A nervous and excitable leader in the expedition against Troy came from the district of Thisoa. His name was Theutis, and he should be accorded the dis- tinction of having fired the first shot in the Trojan War, a shot that wounded a no less redoubtable antagonist than the goddess Athena, and that unfortunately ended his career. Irritated by a long delay at Aulis where the fleet was windbound, Theutis suddenly decided to march his troops back home, and when Athena attempted to change his decision he, in a boiling rage, ran his spear through the goddess' thigh. On reaching Thisoa he was seized with a wasting disease which extended even to the fruits none of which would ripen in the neighborhood of the Spring until, by advice of the oracle of Dodona, a statue of the speared divinity was made which showed the wound bound realistically with a purple bandage. Methydrium was 170 stadia from Megalopolis, and to the north of it, and the river is said to be the one that now flows by the village of Atzi Kolo. Pausanias; VIII. 28. 46 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS 42 Nymphasia A Spring called the Well Nymphasia was found thirty stadia from Methydrium; the latter town was 137 stadia from Tricolini. Tricolini is supposed to have stood within a mile of the town of Karatula. Pausanias; VIII. 36. 43 Tragus River In the plain of Caphyse there was a reservoir of water that was absorbed into the ground. Afterwards that water came up at what was called Nasi, near the village of Rheunos, and formed there the perennial river Tragus. The stream now named Tara is believed to be the ancient Tragus. Pausanias; VIII. 23. ARGOLIS 44 Adrastea After passing the small town of Cleone on the way to Argos, the road became narrow and ran between for- bidding mountains at one time the haunts of fearsome beasts, man-eating dragons, frightful felidae of which the most noted and dreaded representative was the Nemean Lion, whose lair among those mountains was still pointed out in the second century of the Christian Era to touring travelers who gazed at it with awesome dread, hundreds of years after Hercules had dispatched its mturderous occupant. At Nemea, only fifteen stadia distant from the lair, was the cypress grove where Lycurgus' little son Opheltes, left alone on the herbage by a thoughtless nurse, was devoured by a dragon. Amphiaraus the Soothsayer saw in this little tragedy an omen of a larger one near at hand, but his warning that might have averted it was disregarded. This all happened on a pleasant day in the year 1225 B.C. when The Seven Against Thebes, on their way to the assault of that city stopped to ask the nurse where they could find water. She, only too glad to prolong a parley with the martial party gaudy in their bright array of shining armor, having laid the child down, piloted them around a screening clump of bushes, and pointed out the fountain of Adras- 47 48 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS tea. Standing entranced with the sight of the brass- armored band of soldiers drinking from their helmets at the Spring, she was startled by the infant's cries and, rushing back to where she had left him, her own piercing shrieks filled the air as the sounds from the infant sud- denly stopped. The soldiers, running around the obscuring screen of bushes to learn the cause of the cries, were only in time to see the murderous monster disappearing in the dis- tance, and a few splashes of bright red moisture shining in the sunlight on the herbage where the infant had been chewed up by the dragon. It was then that the Seer, himself a soldier, and one of the party, read the warning that Fate had set in the scene that she had staged before them, and explained that Thebes was the dragon, and the infant's end their own. But his warning was in vain, and the martial blood of six of the heroes in a few days glistened in lakes on the green grass around the gates of Thebes. Through King Creon's cruelty, the corpses of the heroes were left for a long time unburied, but the few pieces of the bones of Opheltes that were rescued were carefully placed in a tomb raised on the blood-sprinkled spot by the Spring near the base of the mountain Apesas. Both the dragon, which the heroes killed, and the Ne- mean lion must often have quenched their thirst at this fountain and washed down with its waters many a cruel feast that made the human population smaller, for neither the Inachus nor any of the other neighboring rivers had water in their channels in rainless seasons. The vicinage was not only made picturesque by the numerous mountains that formed the valley in which the Spring took its rise, but was endeared to the hearts of the ARGOLIS 49 Grecians through classic memories long and carefully cherished. Not far away, and in the direction of Argos, were the ruins of Mycenas, the first and the oldest town of Argolis, which was there founded by Perseus, because his scab- bard dropped from his sword on its site. And it was quite in keeping with this circumstance that the spot in the woods so pointed out by the naked sword, should afterwards, as a city, furnish leaders for the Trojan war, and more than a quarter of the martial heroes whose swords wrote in blood the stirring and enduring story of Thermopylae. Mycenae was in Agamemnon's time the capital of his kingdom, and the chief city in Greece, and a list of its principal citizens in those days, nearly a thousand years before its fall in 468 B.C., reproduces the casts in the most dreadful tragedies of .lEschylus and Sophocles, with such names as Atreus, yEgisthus, Clytemnestra, Orestes, and many others, against each of which is written some maiTOw-freezing crime, from infant killing and cooking to murders of relations of all degrees of kinship. It might seem as though, long ago, germs of courage and ferocity were bred in this Spring, and in the one called the fountain of Perseus which rose in the ruins of Mycenae, as, nowadays, other germs are cultivated in the " broth of the bacteriologist, germs that made the men of Mycenae no less hardy and fierce than the four-footed terror that in earlier times ravaged Nemea until Hercu- les, as the first of his labors, dispatched it and freed the country from its depredations. So strong were this lion's muscles, and so hard was its hide, which no arrow could pierce, that the hero was at last forced to throw away his weapon and squeeze it to death in his arms. Afterwards this hide became the con- 50 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS queror's sole and imperishable armor and garment with which he is pictured by the poets and painters of pos- terity, except during the period when, under the domina- tion of Omphale, he laid aside his club and lion's skin and adopted the distaff and dress of a woman. Here also, by this Spring, gathered the finest athletes and artists of Argolis and elsewhere in the first and third year of each Olympiad to celebrate one of the four great festivals of Greece, the Nemean games — sports and con- tests that aroused such widespread interest that no less than eleven of the Odes of Pindar were composed in honor of its victors, some of whom contended for promi- nence in musical and in metrical composition. The first of those Nemean games were held in connec- tion with the funeral ceremonies of Opheltes; they con- tinued to be held every two years thereafter, and the prizes were always crowns of parsley, because it was in a patch of parsley that Opheltes was devoured. Owing to Amphiaraus' forecast, the poor child was afterwards spoken of as Archemorus, that is, The Fore- runner of Death. The nurse whose carelessness was the cause of so many untoward events had a sad story of her own. Before she became one of the slaves of Lycurgus, she was a Princess and the daughter of Thoas, king of Lemnos. When the women of that island decided to kill all the men, and had actually dispatched them, they discovered that Hyp- sipyle had concealed her father Thoas and had saved him; and in punishment of her defection they sold her into slavery, and Lycurgus became her owner. It was, of old, uncertain whether the Spring received its name because Adrastus was the first to discover it, or for some other reason; but as Nemesis, the power that stood for justice, and punished unfairness, was also called ARGOLIS 51 Adrastea, a more appropriate name could hardly have been found for the Spring by which so many rival athletes spent their time while training, and during competition; so called, at every draught the name of the goddess would be on their lips, and in their minds, to warn them from subterfuge and urge them to fair and honest effort in striving for the prize for which they entered. At the foot of Mt. Apesas, now named Fuca, are the remains of the stadium of the ancient games, and to the right of them is found the Spring of Adrastea whose water supplied an artificial fountain structure the connection with which is now out of order. Pausanias; II. is-i6. 45 The Spring of Perseus Mycenag, the oldest town in Argolis, was in ruins before the year one A.D., but its Spring of Perseus, or Perseia, still retained its youthful vigor amid the wreckage of what it had seen built up in its virgin valley to become the first city of Greece and the residence of Agamemnon. The town was founded by Perseus who, having acci- dentally killed his grandfather Acrisius during a game of quoits while on a visit in Thessaly, returned to Greece in very low spirits and, giving up his former kingdom, started out to divert his brooding thoughts and establish a new capital. This he did where some water flowed out when he pulled up a fungus, a growth that in his language was called Mycenas. That this was the proper site for his new city was fully confirmed when the scabbard fell from his sword and slipped to the ground, an unusual happen- ing that was palpably a double indication of what the 52 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS city's name should be, for mycenae meant scabbard as well as fungus. The town of Argos was founded seven miles south of Mycenae, and they are sometimes spoken of as though they were one city, each being called by the other's name. In and between the two towns there were a number of tombs of celebrated people; Agamemnon's was in My- cenae, and that of his wife and murderess, Clytemnestra, was considerately separated from his by the city walls; and between the two towns, at a place called The Rams, was the tomb of Thyestes whose children were slain by his brother Atreus and served up to him at a feast. The neighboring village of Kharvati is now supplied through an aqueduct with water from a stream on the north side of Mycenae's old acropolis, and one may fancy that its source is the age-old Spring that took the name of Perseus. The city of Argos lay three miles north of the Argolic Gulf. Pausanias; II, i6. 46 Amymone The Fountain of Amymone owed its existence to two cases of poor marksmanship. Amymone having shot at a stag and hit a satyr, he while expressing his indignation was made the mark for Poseidon's trident; that weapon in turn going astray pierced a rock instead of the satyr. These two incidents occurred during a search for water that Amymone was making at the command of her father Danaus who had recently arrived in Argos during a drought and a scarcity of water. ARGOLIS 53 After making acknowledgments for her rescue, Amy- mone pulled the trident from the rock and was surprised to see a three-stream Spring follow the weapon's with- drawal. It should, however, not be concealed that a pleasant impression of Poseidon's gallantry in this case must be formed in the face of some indications in the story that possibly he exacted the acknowledgments as inducements to show how the water might be obtained. The modern location of this fountain is assumed to be in the neighborhood rendered marshy by a number of Springs and where seven or eight of them, instead of the classic three, unite to form the Amymone, also called the Lerna river. It broadens into a deep pool several hun- dred feet in diameter which is supposed to be the Alcy- onian Marsh whose depth Nero was unable to fathom. Modern millers, who have walled the pool to make a waterhead, also declare it to be immeasurably deep, as it must have been back to the time when Dionysus de- scended through it to the lower world to recover his mother Semele, the daughter of Cadmus, when she was stricken by Zeus' brilliancy. Danaus had come from Egypt to Argos to escape his brother .i^gyptus who desired to have his fifty sons married to the fifty daughters of Danaus, and the latter, though fearing a prophecy that he would come to his end at the hands of a son-in-law, was finally compelled to consent to the unions; though he secretly attempted to avert the predicted fate by ordering every daughter to do away with her husband on the night of the ceremonies. All of the girls obeyed except Lynceus' bride Hyperm- nestra, and the forty-nine severed heads were thrown into the River Amymone. It is said, though it is also denied, that Lynceus fulfilled the prophecy. The sisters were doomed to expiate their wedding 54 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS night acts in Tartarus by forever trying to draw water in sieves. A commonplace substitute for this history has been offered to the effect that Danaus means drought ; that the daughters were so many nymphs of Springs and their spouses an equal number of dependent streams, whose beds became empty when in a period of hot weather the fountains ceased to flow; and that the punishment was suggested by the sandy nature of the soil at their sources, which in time of drought were said to leak. Danaus was said to have been the first who taught the Argives to dig Wells, and for his surveys locating the Springs of Argos he was made King; a reward that was also bestowed on other men whose discoveries were of much value, and which foreshadowed modern patent rights, being in effect a Patent of Nobility. Another Hypermnestra was the mother of Amphiaraus, and an unlocated fountain that anciently bore his name is supposed to have been in this neighborhood which was near the seacoast and some five miles south of the city of Argos. In the swamp of Lerna near the Spring of Amymone was where dwelt the monster Hydra one of the offspring of Echidna, that mother of numerous freaks, the slaying of which formed the second of the twelve labors of Her- cules. The Hydra was represented as having a number of heads variously stated as from seven to over a hundred. Pausanias was inclined to doubt that it really had so many, and in the absence of Peisander's works the num- ber must still remain unfixed. Peisander who antedated Hesiod is credited with having pubHshed the most de- tailed history of Hercules, but httle or nothing is left of it save perhaps the 24th and 25th Idylls of Theocritus which have been attributed to the earlier poet. ARGOLIS 55 Between the little river of Amymone and the river Pontinus a sacred grove of plane trees extended from Mt. Pontinus nearly to the sea; and it was under one of these plane trees that grew near the Spring that the monster Hydra was reared. The identical tree was known and it shared for ages in the awe that shivering strangers felt as the glib guides of Argolis pointed out the exact spots where the Lion, or the Dragon, or the Hydra had per- petrated this or that especially cruel deed. Those who might look upon these scenes in the fancied security of terrors long passed away were roused to a sense of horrors still close at hand by being shown a nearby circle of stones that marked the place where Pluto descended to his underground realms. While there is no lack of fossil evidence that the earth was once cimibered with enormous animals rivaling if not exceeding the size of the whales of the present era, there is no reason to surmise that these monsters were known to any of the ancient races of men whose records have come down through the last ten thousand years. There were seemingly none of them left at the time that Noah made his collection for post-diluvian perpetuation, nor is there even a legend extant describing the remarkable monsters as they are known today from the remains of their fossilized femurs and the fragments of their spines. It is, therefore, not unlikely that the exploits that are viewed through the lenses of the epic poets would appear, without these magnifying media, in much the same category as the marvelous feat of Mr. Jack Horner of nursery notoriety. Indeed, some of the contemporaries of the greatest heroes were the first to rock the pedestals upon which their earliest monviments were reared; thus, King Lycus, in his conversation with Megara, the wife of Hercules. 56 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS makes it clear that even the townsmen of the Greek strong man were not greatly impressed by Hercules' heroism in "killing a water snake in a marsh, " a remark that may be much to the credit of Lycus' discretion, as he made it only to the wife, and not until after the husband had gone crazy. Apollodorus; II. i. § 4. Hyyinus; Fable 169. Euripides; Heraclesi MaJ ; line 150. 47 Physadea Physadeawas a Fountain in the neighborhood of Argos. On the day set for bathing the statues of the goddess Athena or Pallas, the Minerva of the Romans, it was customary for the people of Argos to drink Spring water only, and not to dip their vessels in the rivers whose waters were used for laving the statues. The handmaids were admonished to fill their urns on that particular day either from the Fountain of Physadea or from Amymone, from which it may be judged that it was at one time a Fountain of prominence, although it has not been located in modern days; perhaps because it bore merely a local name given to one of the three Springs produced by Neptune's trident and which were called, collectively, Amymone. Callimachus ; Bath of Pallas. 48 The Trcezen Hippocrene This Spring was in Argolis, at Trcezen, the birthplace of Theseus, now called Damala, and, though apparently ARGOLIS 57 lacking the guaranty of the Muses that the Hippocrene fountain of Helicon enjoyed, it was quite satisfactorily proven by very old tradition to have originated from the same cause, having been pawed from the ground by Pegasus when Bellerophon had ridden him there to seek the hand and heart of ^thra. It was in its vicinity that the unfortunate Phaedra languished for love of Hippolytus, the son of Theseus and the Araazon Antiope, whom his father had left at Troezen when he went to marry Phasdra and whom Phaedra met when Theseus, needing to be purified for the murder of Pallas and his sons, selected Troezen for the ceremonies. No doubt on that occasion he used the water of Hippo- crene as Orestes had done before him, during his proba- tion and trial and purification after the murder of his mother. Nine men tried and acquitted Orestes, and the large white stone that they sat upon was carefully pre- served in front of the temple at Troezen. Theseus, from the age of seven, when he first saw Hercules, was fired witli ambition to emulate the hero's deeds, and his life in consequence became a series of adventures. He was a many-sided character witn a mania for carry- ing off ladies from their homes, even going, unsuccess- fully, on one occasion, to Hades to steal Proserpine for Pirithous. He married a number of the beauties, and the revelries at his wedding with Antiope the Queen of the Amazons, whom the writer calls Hippolyta, are the theme of A Midsummer Night's Dream. In the knight's tale Chau- cer lauds him but one cannot lightly forgive him for marooning Ariadne instead of marrying her, when it was only her gift of the sword and her spool of thread that made possible his escape from the labyrinth of Crete. 58 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS Theseus was unable to hold the Kingship of Athens, that came to him from his Father ^^geus, but his fellow townspeople of Troezen seem to have continued to vener- ate him long after his death, and anything connected with him or the members of his family was preserved and exhibited with pride by the trusting people among whom he was born. They loved him for the deeds by which they benefited; before his time the roads around their town had been infested with robbers and other most villainous characters, all of whom he did away with, using, with a Samson-like humor, their own contrivances with which to punish them. Sinus was a heartless monster whose chief enjoyment it was to bend together two stout pine trees and then let them fly apart when he had tied the heels of a traveler to one and his neck to the other. Theseus tore him in two in the selfsame way. He also put an end to the pranks of Polypemon, better known as Procrustes, who took a demonish delight in accurately adapting all lengths of body to the only bed that he provided for every one of his victims, cutting the long, and stretching the short, to make them fill the space between the pillow and the footboard. Among the Theseus family relics that the people of Troezen preserved was the temple of Peeping Aphrodite in which Phasdra fed her affection, by gazing out upon the race course that it overlooked, when Hippolytus was training to keep himself in condition. Another relic was a marvelous maple bush with lacelike leaves, each one filled with punctures that Phaedra had made with a hair- pin while venting the despairing agonies of her misplaced love. Near this bush the tomb of the unhappy woman was constructed, and when she could no longer make lace work in the maple leaves her spirit could watch the sym- ARGOLIS 59 pathetic waters of Hippocrene fretting the surface of the Spring with their bubbles. Pausanias; II. 3i. 49 The Well of Hercules (Troezen) Trcezen had another noted Spring; it rose in front of the house of Hippolytus and was called The Well of Hercules, because, it was said, that hero was the one who discovered it. The Troezenians had a brook which they named Chry- sorrhoe, the Golden Stream, but it is not stated whether this Spring or that of Hippocrene was the source of the brook which was given its pretentious name because in a period of drought lasting nine years, when all other streams dried up, this one continued to flow without diminution. More remarkable, however, than the ever flowing fountain was the history of a tree that grew before the statue of Hermes and which adds an interesting feature to the biography of Hercules, and furnishes the fact that he made his club from the wood of the wild olive, for the tree before the statue sprang from the original weapon wielded in a thousand exploits the memory of which is endeared to the hearts of all learned worshipers of muscular prowess. The club, which had been cut from a tree in the Saron- ian marsh, having been presented as an offering to the god, was propped against the statue, and, respected alike by hunters of relics and of fuel ; in due time it took root, and, with even more vitality than the blossoming rod of 6o GREECE; PELOPONNESUS Aaron, it grew to a full-sized wild olive tree, showing a vigor nothing short of marvelous in a weapon that had seen such long usage and hard service. An effort appears to have been made by Amphiaraus to have this Spring called after him, but the claim of prior discovery seems to have secured the Spring's right to help to bear the hero's name to posterity. Pausanias; II. 32. 50 Hycessa The Fountain called Hycessa was near Troezen and was one of the sources of the river Taurus which Athen- aeus notes was called Bull's Water by Sophocles in his play of .iEgeus. Several bulls had prominent parts in episodes related of the family of King ^geus; the Marathonian bull, and the Cretan bull or Minotaur, bull-headed and man- bodied, were slain by .lEgeus' son Theseus who long before the siege of Troy impressed the form of an ox on the money he issued. A third bull, however, turned the tables by frightening the horses of Hippolytus who lost his life (or one of his lives, for he was resuscitated by .i^sculapius) in the runaway that resulted. The play of Sophocles may have given an account of the connection between one of these animals and the stream fed by the Spring of Hycessa, but unfortunately it is one of the 123 lost works that the author wrote some five hundred years before the Christian era, and the account has perished with the play. The Spring was near Theseus' Rock under which he found his father's sword and shoes. ARGOLIS 6i The Taurus was afterwards given the name HylHcus, and is now known as Potami. l^ausanias; II. 32. Athena;us; III. 95. 51 Inachus Pausanias states that the sources of the Inachus were in Mt. Artemisium, but his brief addition, "though they flow underground for some way," scarcely conveys an adequate impression of the lengthy land, sea, and under- ground voyage that others give the river the credit of having performed. Its first sources were in the mountain range of Pindus that formed the boundary between Thessaly and Epirus, from which range it flowed into the Ionian Sea on the west and, pushing its way through the waves, passed under the Peloponnesus and ascended through Mt. Artemisium, which formed the boundary between Argolis and Arcadia, until it reached one of its elevations called Lyrceium where it burst out, near the town of (Enoe, as a fresh- water Spring showing no evidences of its briny passage. The town was named after the grandfather of Dio- medes who buried him there after treating him "as well as one would expect a person to treat his grandfather." .Strabo considered the voyage of the Inachus a fiction invented by Sophocles, in one of his plays that has not been preserved, and preferred to attribute the trip to the name, which he believed a colony had carried from Argolis and bestowed on the stream from the mountain in Thessaly. Greek traditions vary, as Pausanias mildly expressed it, and for that reason a good story is often marred by another version that contradicts it. 62 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS The contradictions probably arose in many instances from misunderstandings such as occur daily through attaching to a word a meaning not intended by the original author; but another prolific cause of variations was evidently, as in the case of the Inachus, the mistaking of one person, place, river or other natural feature for another that bore the same name, although the persons lived in different generations, or the places were situated in different parts of Greece, or even in other countries. The Inachus of Argolis is now known as the Banitza. Pausanias; II. 25. Strabo; VI. 2. §4. 52 Treton On the top of Mt. Treton there was a Spring which was colder than snow, so cold, indeed, that people were afraid to drink of it fearing that they would freeze if they did so. King Ptolemy mentioned the Spring in his Commen- taries, and satisfied himself of its temperature by fear- lessly taking a draught of it. It rose at the side of the carriage road called Contoporia which ran between Mycenae and Cleonae. The mountain it crossed was a haunt of the Nemean lion until it was killed by Hercules. Athenaeus; 11. 19. 53 Springs of the Asopus There was much more than met the casual eye in the Springs of the Asopus. ARGOLIS 63 They appeared to be at Phlius; that is, an observer tracing the river's dwindling course from the town of Sicyon, where it flowed into the Gulf of Corinth, and following its banks to the south, would have seen it making its appearance near the city of Phlius, and, re- garding it in no manner as a River of Doubt, would have gone his way satisfied that he had seen the river's first source. The good people of Phlius, however, had another view about it. A fondness for something different, whether for times passed or for foreign products, may be innate in the human race, and there were several instances of peoples who were apparently not satisfied with a home-grown river and were ready with plenty of proof to convince visitors that the Springs they were looking at were merely an episode in their river's course, and that the stream originated abroad and in some country beyond the seas. The people of Delos boasted that their river Inopus was really the Nile rising among them after a long under- ground journey from Africa. Even the Euphrates was said to be a reincarnation of the Nile after dropping out of Ethiopian existence through a lake. And the Phliusians were proud to boast that the Asopus was a foreign and not an indigenous stream ; that it was in fact imported by a very circuitous route from Phrygia and was none other than the River Maeander shipped from Miletus under sea to the Peloponnese, the name given to that part of Greece, south of the Corin- thian Gulf. In early times the people had been content to consider the Asopus a purely domestic river, as on its face it seemed to be, that had been discovered by one Asopus, a 64 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS contemporary of Aras an Autochthon and the first person who hved in their country. It seems possible that the name itself was imported, but only from Boeotia, just across the Gulf of Corinth, where there was another river Asopus. Afterwards it was equally as easy to transfer the river as it had been to transfer the name, and no less easy to manufacture proof, which was done by placing in the Temple of Apollo at Sicyon, along with the spear that Meleager used in slaying the Calydonian boar, and other precious relics, the original flutes of Marsyas, which, after his unsuccessful musical contest with Apollo, were dropped in the Marsyas river, and thence carried into the Masander from which they reappeared in the Asopus and were rescued at the very moment when they were floating out into the harbor of Sicyon on their way to the sea and to obHvion. Their rescuer was an honest shepherd with the shep- herd's well-known fondness for pipes, and he recognized the historical instruments at once and gave them to Apollo. It is a great pity that such a remarkable connoisseur in flutes, and that a poor shepherd to whom any collector would have given wealth for his find, should have to be referred to merely as "a shepherd" and cannot be called by name, for his name, if ever known, is lost, and, so far as appears in the accounts, his honesty was his only re- ward though on the strength of that honesty alone a very small river became as remarkable in one respect as the giant Nile. In the back part of the market place of Phlius there was a dwelling called the Seer's House where Amphiaraus first formulated the principles of Oneirocrisy which made him famous and which is the subject of considerable ARGOLIS 65 literature even at the present day. And near that ven- erable house was a spot named Omphalus which the Phliusians are said to have said was the center of all the Peloponnese, though perhaps that was a slip of a tongue that should have said, Greece. The Asopus became a never failing stream for the genealogists of the families within miles of the river, one into which every ancestor seeker could plunge with the certainty of reaching the source of the line he was at work on, and that source was more than often Asopus himself. The Asopus is now known as the river of St. George. Pausanias; II. 5. 7. 12. 54 Erasinus Through an arch-roofed recess that extended nearly two hundred feet into the side of Mt. Chaon, the Springs of the Erasinus River gushed out where a grateful grove that they nourished to exuberance kept the waters cool and offered the twittering birds a pleasing shade in the heats of summer, and a refuge from the storms of wild and windy days in winter. These Springs immediately formed a sturdy river whose course though short was full of labor and therefore called The Mills of Argos, from the number of wheels turned by its rapid and tireless current which persevered throughout the year and when many other weaker streams had become exhausted. The Erasinus was said to be a reappearance of the Arcadian river Stymphalus which dropped out of sight under Mt. Apelauron and traveled through the earth for twenty-five miles before coming out again under Mt. Chaon. 66 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS These Springs of the river they christened were some- what north of the town of Cenchreae perhaps named for that son of Peirene at whose loss she wept herself into that celebrated Fountain of Corinth by whose name the Delphic oracle was wont to refer to the city, rather than by its geographical designation. The river is now called Kephalari but continues to be the only stream in the Plain of Argos that flows through- out the year; neither has any change been found in the Springs and their grotto as described twenty centuries ago. Pausanias; II. 24. 55 Springs of the Hyllicus Some of the Springs of the river Hyllicus, originally called the Taurus or Taurius, were in the mountains through which ran the road from Troezen to Hermione. Near them was the temple where Theseus was said to have married Helen of Troy; and also the rock under which he found the sword of his father JEgens, the rec- ognition of which saved Theseus' life when his father, who had not seen him since infancy, not knowing who he was, was about to give him a poisoned draught at the instiga- tion of his stepmother Medea. (See Hyoessa, No. 50.) Pausanias; II. 32. 56 Methana About thirty stadia from Methana there were some Springs of such heat that they warmed the waters of the Saronic Gulf into which they flowed. ARGOLIS 67 These Springs had their beginning in a blaze of glory, for, at a time when their site was dry, a flame burst suddenly from the ground and formed an imposing pillar of fire; then, after the column had burned itself away, the waters began to flow and afterwards continued per- manently to bubble up, very warm and very salt, and creating a mild temperature that attracted many sorts of ocean monsters, especially sea dogs, that made it danger- ous for anyone to attempt to swim in the vicinity. The eruption cast up a mountain half a mile high, and caused such heat and sulphureous smells that the place was unapproachable by day, for, strange to say, at night the odor became agreeable. The volcanic fires cast their lights to great distances and made the sea boil, for half a mile from the shore, so violently that the agitation ex- tended for two miles beyond. This disturbance occurred some 250 years B.C., but the Springs are still hot and sulphureous; there are two of them now known as Vroma and Vromolimni, in the small peninsula north of Damala, and they are of especial interest on account of their origin, for although the Peloponnesus has often suffered from earthquakes and tidal waves there are few traces of volcanic action in any part of it except in the neighborhood of these Springs. Pausanias; II. 34. StrabojI. 3. 5 18. 57 Wells of Hermione The people of the town of Hermione had two Wells. Notwithstanding the fact that the older one of these wells was of such magnitude and copiousness that the whole population could never have exhausted it, they 68 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS rather strangely went to the trouble of digging the second well which tapped a stream flowing from a place called Meadow. The water of the old Well flowed into it by a hidden channel. Hermione was at the southern limits of Argolis where there is now a little village called Kastri. It contained the sanctuary of Clymenus surrounded with a stone fence that enclosed the entrance to a short cut and inexpensive route to Hades which was so quickly reached from Her- mione that its people never placed in the mouths of their departed friends any fee for the ferryman Charon, an expense for which the bereaved among all other Grecians were obliged to make provision. Pausanias; II. 35. 58 Well of Canathus Nauplia was deserted and in ruins two thousand years ago, when all that was left of it were vestiges of the walls and of a Temple of Poseidon, and this Well of Canathus. The identifier frequently has reason to give thanks for the aid that the persistency of Springs affords him. Where a city has crtunbled to rubbish and its stones have perhaps been stolen to start a new town in another local- ity — when nothing is left of the work of the men who con- structed the city, its site may often still be identified by the authenticating autograph the fountain pen of Nature still traces with the water of its ever flowing Spring. But in the instance of this old town, Hera's habit also helped to point out what was once Nauplia, for, until Grecian faith in her existence was lost, she continued her ARGOLIS 69 ancient practice of repairing yearly to the Spring of Canathus to bathe in it and become a virgin again. On a neighboring rock there was carved the figure of an ass to commemorate the fact that his fondness for gnawing the twigs of the grape vines first taught man the benefit of pruning them to bring about a more abundant yield of fruit. The history of the town of Nauplia offers a striking instance of rejuvenations which, according to individual fancy, may be considered accidental coincidences or as confirmations of the restorative powers that Hera found in the Well of Canathus. Named by Nauplius, a son of Poseidon and Amymone, it became a city of independence. Then its citizens were driven away by the Argives and it lapsed into nonentity and fell into ruin. In the Middle Ages, however, it showed new signs of life; but in 1205 it suffered in a successful siege by the Franks. Two hundred years later it was captured by the Vene- tians; and a hundred and fifty years after that it fell into the hands of the Turks. A century and a half later, the Greeks recaptured it and not only restored it but made it the seat of the na- tional government, which it continued to be until 1834 when Athens acquired the honor. It is additionally strange to find it described a few years ago not only as having one of the strongest for- tresses in Europe, but as looking more like a REAL town than any other place with that designation in Greece. And even its ancient name, received from Amymone's son, has been restored. Pausanias; II. 38. 70 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS 59 Wells and Fountains of ^sculapius The principal Well of ^sculapius was in his native town of Epidaurus on the eastern coast of Argolis; it was in the temple, and his throne and statue were set over the Well, which provided enough moisture to keep the ivory from checking — in dry temples it was customary to sprinkle ivory statues with water, and in damp temples to rub them with oil to preserve them. But other wells of the first physician, with nearly lOO shrines, were found in profusion throughout the length and breadth of Greece, all dedicated to him and bearing his name, and if other testimony were lacking they alone would furnish ample proof of the monopoly in medicine that he enjoyed. These wells indicate that he very carefully canvassed the country in person and had his name attached to them with a full appreciation of the value of advertising, of which he might be called the discoverer without fear of raising a counter-claimant. They bring to mind the private mile boards that picket so many modern rail- ways and apprize the passengers from minute to minute that they are so many stadia nearer the celebrated em- porium of such a one in the city indicated. Travelers in Greece had merely to follow the Wells of ^sculapius to come in due course to the seaport from which to embark for his office in Epidaurus, to which place whole cargoes of clients were wont to set sail to consult him, and from which they usually returned carrying in the hold of the vessel a dragon, which the famous physician seems to have been in the habit of dispensing in lieu of drugs. In those days when open air existence was the rule, and when some men still lived like Nestor for several ARGOLIS 71 generations, the ills of poisoned arrows were perhaps only less prevalent than those of disease, and as a dragon was but a snake the ancients may have known how to make a counteracting serum from ^sculapius' stock, as the Brazilian does from the South American rattlesnake. It was never too late to be taken to ^Esculapius, for it was no uncommon belief that he had even restored the dead to life. Among the resuscitated whose names and addresses were given are: Androgeus, son of King Minos; Capaneus; Glaucus; Hymenaeus, killed by the collapse of his house on his wedding day; Hippolitus; Lycurgus, the son of Pronax; and Tyndarus. But even advertising may be carried too far and ex- haust the capital, as the Epidaurian doctor found to his cost, for his own death was due to his crowning claim of being a life restorer; it raised the apprehensions of Pluto who foresaw that such skill would soon put his ferry out of business and prevent any increase in the number of inhabitants in his underground Kingdom of Hades — and Zeus, at Pluto's earnest solicitation, slew jEsculapius with a flash of lightning. The train of events that followed that flash endured for a year, for Apollo having craftily ferreted out the individual Cyclops who fashioned the bolt, bow-and- arrowed him; and Jupiter, angered at this indirect shot at himself, condemned Apollo to serve for twelve months as a bondman, and he was indentured to King Admetus of Thessaly. The account adds the intimate detail that the monarch made the god a swineherd on the banks of the river Amphrysos, but does not state to whom was delegated the duty of conducting the chariot of the Sun during Apollo's year of service. 72 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS Had the great doctor disclosed the secret of life, his students would have been able to make use of it in his own behalf, and the moral is, therefore, more than a hint to all secretive inventors. The fact that his disciples did not restore him to life invalidates the malicious rumor that in raising the dead he used the blood from the veins of the right side of Medusa, and that he killed people with the blood from her left side. jEsculapius, who perhaps considered such a disclosure quite unnecessary for his own benefit, would, however, have done well to provide for accidents which no medical power can avert, such as the flash of lightning, and hun- dreds of minor mischances of daily occurrence, through one of which a descendant of ^sculapius came to grief. Asclepiades was the descendant's name, and so great was his confidence in his skill that he laid a wager that he would never be even sick ; a wager that the recorder dryly states he won — as he met his death by falling down- stairs. Apollo's interest in revenging the death of the Doctor may be accounted for by either of two rumors ; one, that he was the father of .^Esculapius ; and the other, that Hymenseus whom the physician restored to life was one of Apollo's sons. But it is less easy to surmise why Hy- men, as the unfortunate youth is generally called, whose wedding day was so very inauspicious, should have been made the god of marriage at whose altar all happy lovers still continue to address their vows, although perhaps few of them are aware that he was but the bridegroom of a day. The Temple of ^sculapius was outside of the town of Epidaurus (which received its name from its founder, a son of Pelops) in a sacred grove which was walled in on all sides. In the grove there was a Fountain well worth ARGOLIS 73 seeing because of its decorations and the roof that had been raised above it ; and about it were numerous pillars on which were recorded the names and the maladies of those whom ^sculapius had cured. The grounds of the temple near the present village of Pidhavro are covered with ruins that have not yet been thoroughly investigated, but many of the testimonial tablets have been brought to light, and the Temple Well has been found and restored to its ancient condition. It is fifty-five feet deep and is still supplied from its former underground source. Some portions of the source of a brook have also been uncovered, and they are in all probability parts of the channel through which ran the water of the Fountain whose decorations were a striking feature in the grounds that surround the temple. (See No. 103.) Pausantas; II. 27. 60 Dine The Fountain of Dine rose in the sea near a place called Genethlium. It was a Spring of fresh and sweet water, sacred to Poseidon, and sacrifices of bridled horses were offered to him there, apparently by throwing the ready-to-ride animals into the Spring. Nearby was a spot of as great interest to the Greeks as the Pilgrims' Rock became to Americans, because it was there that Danaus disembarked with his fifty daughters when he first came to the Peloponnesus from Chemnis in Egypt. The surrounding country was named Pyramia, from 74 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS the number of pyramidal monuments that were scattered over its surface. The Spring is now called Anavalos. It is some five miles south of Amymone and appears a quarter of a mile off shore, gushing up with such force as to form a mound of water and set the sea in commotion for several hundred feet around it. Mariners are said to supply their vessels from this Sea Spring with less trouble than it would be to water from a land-locked Fountain, using, perhaps, some means similar to those employed by the sailors who water at the Spring of Aradus. (See No. 355.) Pausanias; VIII. 7- & II- 38. LACONIA 6i ^SCULAPIUS The district of Laconia had several Springs that were dedicated to ^sculapius, and it had a town, Epidaurus, named after his birthplace in Argolis, which was founded by a shipload of his patients who were driven there in a storm. They had the usual .^Esculapian prescription of a dragon with them, and when it made its escape from the ship and darted into a hole in the ground they were con- vinced by visions and the dragon's strange behavior that they should stay and make a settlement, which they accordingly did. One of his Springs was at ; — Pausanias; III. 23. 62 Gythium, where he had a Fountain and a shrine and a brazen statue. Three furlongs from the town there was a white stone upon which Orestes was said to have sat to be cured of his madness; the "old man" that the townspeople talked about was, however, not Orestes but the original "Old Man of the Sea," Nereus, though what they said about him Pausanias tantalizingly refrains from stating. 75 76 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS Gythium was a short distance to the west of the mouth of the River Eurotas. Thirty stadia from Gythium was the small town of ^giae that had a remarkable body of water called Posei- don's Marsh, in the neighborhood of which mushroom mining stock companies of those days probably found a fertile field for their operations. The Marsh though full of fine fish was given a wide berth by all the progenitors of Isaac Walton, and none of the beauties was ever either eaten or caught because of a general and unchallenged belief that anyone who cast a line or a net into the uncanny waters would immediately himself become a fish. Opposite the city of Gythium lay the small island of Cranas, and a shrewd,_foresighted statesman who scanned the shipping news from its little port on a memorable morning in the year 1 195 B.C. would have known at once that he was reading the opening paragraph in the history of the Siege of Troy when he saw, in the list of pas- sengers who had sailed the day before, the names of Paris and Helen, who had fled to the island in all haste and immediately embarked for the city their escapade doomed. Little is left of Gythium but its Spring, and the Seat of Orestes which is indicated by a chair carved in a wayside rock a short distance from Marathonisi. Another Spring of .ffisculapius was at ; — 63 Pellanis The only notable objects here were the Temple of .(^sculapius and the Fountain of Pellanis. This was a LACONIA 77 large Spring into which a nameless maiden fell when she was filling her water jug. The maiden disappeared but the veil she had worn was found in another fountain called ; — 64 Lancea, of which nothing is related save that it received the lost veil of the maiden who was drowned in the Fountain of Pellanis. The Springs of Pellanis and Lancea are supposed to be two about seven miles from New Sparta (on the site of ancient Sparta) ; the streams from them unite and flow into the nearby Eurotas river. Pausanias ; III . 21. (Gy thium) Pausanias; III. 21. (Pellanis) Pausanias; III. 21. (Lancea) 65 DORCEA The Fountain of Dorcea at Sparta was an adjunct of the temple of Dorceus who aroused the anger of Hercules and was probably killed by the hero. The fountain, if there was anything notable about it, has lost its history in the more absorbing story of Sparta itself which has become a synonym for all that is rugged, as was even its speech which was said to be the least euphonious of all the Grecian dialects. The renown of such of its men as Leonidas, Menelaus, and Lycurgus, has overshadowed the prowess of many no less noteworthy individuals among its fair sex, for it produced Cynisca, the first woman who bred horses, and 78 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS the first one to win the chariot race at Olympia; there was also Euryleonis, another woman winner with horses at that Mecca of skilled strength. When such mothers made men, it is not to be marveled at that they made prodi- gies of valor. And many of their sons were endowed with bright brains no less than with muscle; what the Law owes to Lycurgus, the statuaries owe to Theodorus, a male resident of Sparta who discovered the art of fusing and how to make statues of metal. In one of its suburbs there was preserved for nearly a thousand years the house of Menelaus ; and another sub- urb contained the house of Phormio, preserved as a lesson to inhospitable people; the story as told of it was that Castor and Pollux having asked permission to occupy one of Phormio's rooms over night were told to go somewhere else as the room was that of his daughter. The next morning his daughter and all of her attend- ants had disappeared, and the room contained only some statues of the indignant twins and a strong odor of asafoetida. In another suburb there was preserved the starting place, and the road over which Odysseus ran the race in which he won the faithful Penelope from the other suitors in that peculiar courtship. In the Spartan temple of Phoebe, there was suspended from the roof, by fillets, the most wonderful egg that ever was laid, the egg laid by Leda: its unknown and mysteri- ous contents affording contemplative visitors more stores of food for reflection than the nose of Cleopatra; one might wonder if it were the unhatched twin of Helen, and if it once, or maybe still, contained as many miseries as the latter mothered. The Spartan temple to Apollo was built to propitiate him for the liberty that was taken in cutting down his LACONIA 79 grove of cornel trees on Mt. Ida for boards to raake the Wooden Horse that brought about over night the capture of Troy that ten years of fighting had failed to effect. Sparta, which was also called Lacedasmon, was the capital of Laconia and the chief city of the Peloponnesus. It resembled Rome in being built on and about a nimiber of hills; and, like Rome, it was captured by Alaric, in 396 A.D., several years before he took the Holy City. The hills of Sparta's site are found at the upper end of the valley of the Eurotas and west of that river, where it runs along the western side of Mt. Tageytus, now S. Elias, which reached its greatest height of 7902 feet opposite Sparta. The city's ruins have not yet been sufficiently un- covered to determine which of several Springs among them is the one that was called the Fountain of Dorcea. Pausanias; III. 15. 66 The Envoys' Well The Envoys' Well at Sparta was the cause of a succes- sion of troubles for the Lacedaemonians. When Darius contemplated a military operation in Greece he decided to feel the pulse of the people in ad- vance in order to find out where he would meet with opposition and where no resistance would be made; this he accomplished by sending envoys to the different rulers to demand earth and water as a token of their submission. A number of minor districts were frightened into acceding to the demand, but Athens and Sparta were not to be coerced. The envoys to Athens were thrown into the Barathrum, a deep pit into which criminals were 8o GREECE; PELOPONNESUS tossed when sentenced to death. At Sparta the deputa- tion was solemnly conducted to the Well and was told that it was welcome to all the earth and water there was in it ; and then without further ceremony they flung all of the envoys into the Well and left them to drown. So many untoward circumstances, however, followed this violation of the safe conduct universally accorded to envoys that the Spartans became convinced that repara- tion must be made, and volunteers were called for to go to Persia and submit themselves for execution to atone for the death of the envoys. Two citizens, Sperthies and Bulis, men of distinguished birth and eminent for their wealth, answered the call and were sent to Xerxes who had succeeded Darius. But when they were taken before the king and informed him for what purpose they had come, he refused to accept their sacrifice, and sent them back to Sparta with the message that he declined to do, himself, an act that even the Spartans considered reprehensible, and that he would not by killing them relieve the Lacedaemonians from guilt. Herodotus; VII. 133. 67 TiASSUS The feast that the Lacedemonians called Copis was celebrated in the Temple of Artemis (Corythallia) near the Fountain of Tiassus. The Copis was a peculiar entertainment for which they erected tents under which were strewn beds of leaves covered with carpets, on which anyone, native, or visit- ing stranger, was at liberty to recline, and to regale him- self with meats, and little round rolls made with oil and LACONIA 8i honey; together with new-made cheese, and sHces of small sucking pig with beans, and black puddings, sweet- meats and dried figs. The Spring was on the road between Sparta and Amy- clae where Castor and Pollux lived. The legend that Amyclfe perished through silence has formed the basis of scores of modern stories. The original was to the effect that the people had so often been disturbed by false alarms of an enemy's approach that a law was passed prohibiting any such reports. Afterwards, when the Spartan King Teleclus actually did come against the city, no one daring to break the law and shout a warning, he met with no opposition and the city fell an easy prey to his assault. The source of a small stream, now called Magula, that runs a little south of Sparta's site, is supposed to be the Spring that supplied the sparkling beverage at the tem- perance feast of Copis. Athenaeus; IV. l6. 68 Messeis The Fountain of Messeis was at Therapne on the banks of the Eurotas river. Just above the Fountain were the tombs of Menelaus and Helen under the roof of the Temple of Menelaus in which offerings were made by men who desired to become brave, and by women who wished to be beautiful. History gives many illustrations of the valor of the Spartan warriors; and a striking instance is recorded of the effect of supplications for beauty, made in the temple, in the case of the wife of Ariston a king of Sparta about 560 B.C. As an infant she was the ugliest and most mis- 6 82 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS shapen child in Therapne, but, being carried to the temple daily, she became before reaching marriageable age the most beautiful woman in all Sparta. Therapne was opposite the southeastern end of Sparta, so near to it as to be sometimes referred to as a part of the city. Homer mentions another Fountain of the same name which Strabo says was near Larissa in Thessaly. (See Polydeucea.) Herodotus;VI.6i. Pausanias;III. 30. 69 Polydeucea This Fountain and the Temple Polydeuces were on the right of the road from Sparta and near Therapne. Some people said that this Spring was anciently called Messeis. Further on, by the road to Taygetus, was an interesting place called Milltown (Alesiae), where Myles invented mills and first ground grain efficiently, perhaps with power from the very stream to which the Spring gave rise. Pausanias; III. 30. 70 Marius The town of Marius was a hundred stadia from Geron- thrae. It possessed an old temple common to all the gods and around it there was a grove with fountains. There were also fountains in the Temple of Artemis, for Marius rivaled Belemina in its water supply and had indeed an abundance, if any place had. The ruins of Marius are found within a mile and a half LACONIA 83 of a settlement now called Mari, and the place continues to be characterized by the abundance of its fountains. Fausanias ; III. 22. 71 Nymph^um In the town of Nymphaeum there was a cave very near the sea, and in the cave a Spring of fresh water. This was between the promontory of Malea and the town of Boea; the building of which was attributed to .^neas at a time when he was driven into the bay by storms, during his flight from Troy to Italy. This Spring has been located at Santa Marina where there is a grotto from which there issues a Spring of fresh water. PausaniaE; III. 23. 72 The Water of the Moon Near Thalamse there was a roadside temple of brass and an oracle of Ino where whatever any perplexed applicants desired to know was made manifest to them in dreams. From this temple's sacred fount there flowed fresh water called The Water of the Moon. Ino was born the daughter of Cadmus, the founder of letters and literature, but, fleeing from her bigamous and crazy husband, Athamas, she threw herself into the sea and was changed into a goddess under the name of Leucothea. Her oracle in Laconia, so far away from her birthplace, indicates tha,t even the prophetess 84 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS with a fortune in her name found her greatest honors abroad. Her name was linked with another place in Laconia where a small but very deep lake, two stadia from Epi- daurus Limera, was called The Water of Ino ; it was only a small lake but it went very deep into the ground. At the festival of Ino it was customary to throw barley cakes into it, the throwers considering it a lucky sign if the cakes sank, and the reverse if they floated. It is now described as a deep pool of fresh water lOO yards long and 30 broad, surrounded with reeds and near the sea, not far from Platza. Pausanias; III. 26. III. 23- 73 T^NARUM There was a Fountain at Taenarum, a town that de- rived its name from one, Taenarus, of Sparta. The town occupied the southernmost point of the Peloponnesus, a promontory of Laconia now called Cape Matapan. Besides a celebrated Temple of Poseidon, and extensive marble quarries, the people could point to that fascinat- ing but generally invisible creation — a boundary line, which, in their case was one of more than usual interest, it being the line that divided the Upper world from the Lower, the entrance to the latter being through the mouth of a cave in the town, the very cave through which Her- cules emerged from the dominions of Pluto when he brought back with him the three-headed dog, Cerberus, of the Infernal regions. Pausanias saw the cave but refused to believe the legend, first, because there was no underground passage LACONIA 85 from it; and, secondly, because, if there had been a pas- sage, no one could easily believe that the gods had an underground dwelling where departed souls congregate. Christianity was crouching for its coming spring, and although the army of mythological deities had been strengthened by a shadowy reserve of " Unknown Gods" the ancient and decrepit host was losing its vigor and its votaries day by day. The wonderful property of the town's Spring was, however, less gruesome than the mouth of hell, and much more entertaining than the marble quarries, or the temple; but whether its power was a manifestation of Crystallomancy, or was due to the reflection of mirages, may never be known, as the power was suddenly lost very long ago, and there is nothing left to investigate but an ordinary every day Spring with nothing to distinguish it from any other Spring of the commonplace kind. The fountain's entertainment was apparently on the order of modern picture theater representations, as who- ever looked into it saw views of harbors and of ships. Unfortunately this peculiarity was stopped for all time by the act of one of the townsladies who, more intent on the labors of the laundry than solicitous about strange sights or the sanitary condition of the Spring, inadvert- ently filled it with such apparel of her own and her house- hold as needed the customary Monday soaking. As the Spring's power had long been only legendary even in very old times, the tradition may have originated in someone's laudable desire to prevent those thoughtless practices that are only too common wherever Springs are found; for even the Virgin, if Mandeville mistook not, did not hesitate to do light laundry work at any con- venient Spring that she encountered in her journeyings, without any apparent thought of what use the next 86 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS traveler to arrive might wish to make of the contam- inated water. Cape Matapan is the most southerly point in Europe and forms one side of Quail Bay whose shores are the last resting place of the quail on their Autumn passage to Crete and Cyrene and its Spring. (No. 320.) The old city has dwindled to a village called Kyparisso whose cave is still the cul-de-sac that caused the doubts of Pausanias. Pausanias;III. 25. 74 Pluto's Springs The entrance to Pluto's regions that is afforded by the cave at Taenarum permits a glance at Pluto's Springs. They were created in the imagination of Pherecrates who, in commenting upon the customs in the early times of Saturn when freedom was universal and there were no slaves, assumed that there was consequently no work to be done, and that there was no necessity for planters, or reapers, or craters, or carters. He then describes Nature's forces as performing the operations of toilers and servants, and pictm-es streams that flowed straight down from Pluto's Springs and carried relishes for every guest. Rivers then ran down every road, though half choked up with comfits, rivers of rich brown soup that bore upon their seasoned floods hot rolls and cakes, and every product of the baking art; while Jove, meantime, rained fragrant wine, as though it were a bath. And the trees upon the hills bore hot cooked meats LACONIA 87 instead of leaves ; and roasted fish and fowls and game, in place of blossoms. Athenseus; VI. 96. 75 Atalanta Cyphanta in Laconia was a ruin two thousand years ago. There was nothing left of it but a little temple of .(Esculapius, with a stone statue of the god, and a stream bubbling out from a rock split in three — a stream of soft water which was the Spring of Atalanta. She was the daughter of Jasus and Clymene of Arcadia. Atalanta's father, who had desired a son, cast the infant daughter adrift on the bleak sides of Mt. Parthen- ios; but some kindly hunters found her, and, reared among them in the forests, she grew to be their counter- part in all save form. Knowing nothing of the ways and work of women, she found her whole pleasure in the wild life of the chase and in the adventures of Amazons. She became one of the buccanneer band of the Argonauts, and was the only woman admitted to the desperate enterprise of the hunt of the Calydonian boar. So confident was she in her fleetness, and so averse to the duties and softnesses of others of her sex, that she delighted in racing the would-be wooers her wildness attracted — her hand against their lives as the stake. She was never outrun, but she finally lost through a trick. Stronger than Eve, two apples were not sufficient to gain a triixmph over her, and Meilanion, or Hippomenes, was obliged to delay her a third time in the race, to pick 88 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS up the golden apples of Venus, that he threw forward, in order to reach the goal before her. This fleet-footed Atalanta is not always recognized in the lumbering lioness so often seen yoked with a shame faced monarch of the forest to the car of Cybele. The lion is Hippomenes, the only one of his team mate's suitors who succeeded in winning a race with her, and, the gods, turning them into draught animals, fittingly punished them for disgracing the ideals of the running track. The race should never have gone on record and ought to have been protested on several grounds; it was won by contemptible jockeying, and was practically thrown for gold by the loser who was heard to say before the start that she hoped she would not win. The golden apples were given to Hippomenes by Venus who grew them in her garden in Cyprus; indeed Venus' part in the scandal was the most detestable of all, for, after making the fraud possible and depraving the poor dupes, she lost her temper and humiliatingly had them lionized because, forsooth, she was not given enough credit for the outcome. But the most remarkable feat of Atalanta's life is seldom mentioned, and is nearly lost in a coui)le of lines in a Grecian guide book two centuries old, which speaks of the temple first, and then, in half a dozen words and without even an exclamation point, tells of the origin of the Spring — a wonder birth, at the like of which all the assembled hosts of Israel stood aghast; for Atalanta on one of her long-continued hunting expeditions, becoming very thirsty, struck this rock of Cyphanta with her lance, and the dry stone burst instantly, in sentient sjonpathy with her craving, and became the basin of this bubbUng Spring. LACONIA 89 The ancient Baedeker's direction for reaching Cyphanta is simplicity itself, and though very short is longer than his description of the place; it is: "You go along the coast from Zarax about six stadia and then turn and strike into the interior of the country for about ten stadia — and you come to the ruins." The Fountain has been located afCyparissa on the eastern coast of Laconia; and, rather strangely, on the other side of the Peloponnesus at Cyparissia in Messenia, and on nearly the same parallel, the 57th, is the miracu- lous Spring that Dionysus produced by striking a rock with his thyrsus. (See No. 82.) Pausanias, III. 24. Ovid. Metamorphoses; X. Fable 9. ApollodoTus; III. 9. §2. 76 Belemina The town of Belemina had fountains in abundance; it was in fact the best off for water in all Laconia, for in addition to its numerous Springs the King of Rivers, as the Eurotas is styled in its modern name of Basilipotamo, ran through the city, in or .near which it made one of its singular reappearances after its underground parting with the Alpheus beyond Asea. The town and its Springs were the cause of frequent con- tentions between Laconia and Arcadia, being captured and held a number of times, first by one and then by the other. Some ruins on the mountains now called Khelmos are thought to be those of Belemina. Pausanias; III. 21. 90 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS 77 Fortunate Springs Accepting as true, for the nonce, the assertion that such as have had uneventful careers may be said to have been the happiest people, there may be grouped under the head of "Fortunate" a number of Springs that not only had no history of their own but that flowed in places or among peoples that were equally fortunate, peoples who left no records themselves, and of whom nothing was recorded by others; Springs of which nothing more can be said than simply, They Were, or, in general, more accurately. They Are. A Fountain that is tagged with a tale or a legend may have an interest added to its normal function, but the Spring in which no disconsolate Fair One drowned herself, or that arose from no Sorrowing Beauty's tears, may have done as much good for the world or its city as any well lauded and widely known fountain; and as such Springs furnished life-needed drink for the people of old, so may they supply food for random reflections to the people of later days. In Nature's great scheme, which the wisest has not yet been able to fathom, it is impolitic to say that this or that is useless. It would be equally tyronic to affirm that Alexander the Great was useless merely because there is apparently no condition in the world that would not have been as good as it is to-day if Alexander had never existed. If the chief end of life is to be happy, then Alexander ruined the lives of most of the peoples with whom he came in contact.. If the principal end is to pre- pare for a future existence, then he lopped off the lives of a multitude before their preparations had been completed. Alexanders, however, like other Anacondas, seem to be LACONIA 91 an inseparable concomitant of some sorts of existence, and although no one has yet found out why they are so, no one can see far enough ahead or behind to offer any satisfactory argument why they should not be. An humble Egyptian who helped to build the pyramids and did honest work that remains long after shoddy con- struction of later years collapsed or was condemned, played a valuable part in the world's history, and, at a cursory glance, is as useful to-day as is Alexander the Gone. Without the Egyptian and his millions of fellaheen mates the pyramids would never have been built, for there were never enough architects in Egypt to have leveled and laid the stones of those wonders before the Dynasties interested in their completion had died out and given place to others who were solely or much more concerned in perpetuating memories of their own particular lines. It might be said that the pyramids to-day benefit nothing but a tourist agency, and a car line that would never have been built if Cheops' mind had run to some- thing other than architecture to preserve his name or his mvunmy ; to which the rejoinder might be made that they are an incentive to do good work, and that good work and good deeds are from any point of view better than work and deeds that are bad. There are, no doubt, at this moment blooming in jungles that Man never sees, as beautiful orchids as one can find in the finest horticultural gardens; and nothing more appreciative than a cockatoo or a monkey ever sees them; though in the scheme of Nature they probably have some use, and play a part, if it be only to enrich the ground at their death and so keep it in condition to be some day a center of civilization to take the place of another center that shall be shifted to one side and made uninhabitable by some coming convulsion of the Earth. 92 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS And those placid Springs, with nothing but a name, without which the cities near them would never have been founded; those Springs that furnished the pure life- needed liquid that enabled the citizens to grow, even though they did not produce great works or do great deeds, are no less to be respected and worthy of being mentioned by such names as they were gratefully given, than the founts of fulsome fable. Such Springs served a purpose, and perhaps they are doing so still, for little short of an earthquake can stop the flow of a hardy fountain. Cutting a conduit through a country or a city sometimes makes a Spring a "traveler" that moves its mouth in protest, or makes a new one somewhere else, if it is not as nowadays diverted into the conduit itself. Even an earthquake is often ineffective, for the tears that fall from the head of a mountain are not stopped by shaking another part of the earth a hundred miles away, and the numerous fresh-water Springs in the ocean are probably the original fountains of a land that some up- heaval of Nature in one place, and a consequent subsid- ence in another, cast the ocean over without interfering with their ceaseless activities, which continue below the sea's surface as strenuously as they did when they were atop of terra firma. The names and locations of such Fortunate Springs of Laconia as have not already been mentioned will be found in the following four numbers: 78 Anonus Dereum on Mt. Taygetus had a statue of Derean Artemis, and near it a Fountain called Anonus. LACONIA 93 79 Gelaco This fountain was near the town of Las, and was so called because of the milky color of its water. Las, the founder of the town, was killed by Pa- troclus. This Fount was two and a half miles from the sea, and eight from Gythium. It is near a village called Karvela and its little stream is now the Turkovrysa. 80 Naia At Teuthrone there was a fountain named Naia. Teuthrone has become a village called Kotrones; it is on the west side of the Laconian gulf and nineteen miles from Cape Matapan. 81 Geronthr^ Geronthrae had a temple and grove of Ares, and near the market place were fountains of drinking water. Gheraki, a corruption of the old name, is the present designation of the town, and the position of the ancient market place is plainly pointed out by a number of Springs below the citadel. Pausanias; III. 20. (Anonus) Pausanias; III. 24- (Gelaco) Pausanias; III. 25. (Naia) Pausanias; III. 22. (Geronthra) MESSENIA 82 Dionysus' Spring There was a Spring below the city of Cyparissias close to the sea. It was called the Spring of Dionysus because he produced it by striking the ground with his thyrsus. One might surmise that the thyrsus, trimmed with vine leaves and crowned with a pine cone, was primitively a traveling larder, a stick bound with bunches of grapes and pine cones; a larder somewhat rudely imitated in a child's loUypop stick, and perfected in the Mexican's cooked tortilla hat which provisions him for an extended journey. Grapes and cones tied to a stick are easily transported by one who has no pockets, and even by one who has, for a pocket is not an ideal container for grapes. They who have motored and dined in the countries through which Dionysus tramped have probably en- joyed eating pine cones without ever knowing that they have tasted them. They form one of the pleasantest ingredients of the best salads that are served along Medi- terranean shores, and one of the cones is an ample meal for one of the humble classes. The cone has at the base of each little scale two deli- cious white cylindrical nuts, instead of the soft pulp of the artichoke which is modeled architecturally much on the same plan. The scales are pulled off and the nuts are eaten green -^ 94 MESSENIA 95 on a walk, or, if leisure serves, the cone is set before a fire whose heat swells the scales apart and warms the little nuts, which the Italians call pinolas. If Dionysus had had the foresight to use a hollow cane instead of a stick for his thyrsus, he would not have had to emulate Moses to moisten his meal when he had finished his repast, but in that case his Spring would not have been heard of and he himself might have come down to posterity through the Messenian patent office and not through Pausanias. This Spring is in the modern town still called Cyparis- sia, where, on its southern side, a fine stream gushes out of a rock and flows into the sea close at hand. Pausanias; IV. 36, 83 Clepsydra The Spring called Clepsydra had its source on Mt. Ithome in Messenia, where the mountain overhung the town of Messene and made a commanding site for its citadel. Its water was used daily for religious purposes in the nearby Temple of Zeus, and also supplied the secular necessities of the citizens, being carried underground into the market place at Messene, through a conduit, named Ar- sinoe after the daughter of Leucippus, a Messenian prince. This Spring excites particular interest from the fact that the Messenians held it to be the site of the rearing- place of Zeus, for the Pelasgian, always an improving plagiarist, whether in architecture, art or literature, prefixed a chapter to the Hebrew history of the World's creation, which gave an account of the ancestry and 96 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS parentage of his Jehovah, the Jove of the Romans, and the Zeus of the Greeks. According to this account, Cronus, his cannibalistic father, who had a predilection for eating his progeny, was presented with a stone by his wife, and swallowed it, thinking he was eating his son, who, however, had been given into the care of Ithome and Neda, two Nymphs of Mt. Ithome, where, at this Spring, they washed and began to rear the great Divinity. It is said that it was from the secret removal of the infant to conceal him from his father that the Spring got its name which comes from the same root as klepto- maniac, the elegant euphemism that is applied to well- to-do later-day people who carry off something without first obtaining the owner's consent. There were several localities that claimed the honor of being the birthplace of Zeus, principly Crete and Arcadia. Hesiod, in about 800 B.C., seems to have accepted Crete as the rearing-place of Zeus; Cretan and fibbing, however, had long been synonymous; and the islanders' prepos- terous statement that Zeus was buried in Crete did not make it any the easier to credit their contention about the deity's nativity. Callimachus, of about 250 B.C., names Mt. Lycaeus in Arcadia as the birthplace, and says the god was taken thence to the island of Crete where he was placed in a golden cradle and brought up on the milk of the goat Amalthea, and on honey especially made for him by the bees of Mt. Ida. The poetess Moero adds that water or nectar for the infant god was daily brought through the air by an eagle that drew it from a distant fountain, which, if it was the Messenian Spring Clepsydra, might throw another light on the origin of its name. MESSENIA 97 Two ways suggest themselves, by either of which one might account for the rival roots of the godly genealogi- cal tree; the first, by supposing them to have grown out of a similarity of names in different places — a nightmare that often carried its various riders in different directions even while they dreamed they were bound for the same destination. And, in fact, such similarities, in connection with the birth of Zeus, are found, both in the names of people and of places; the nurse-nymph Neda appears both as an Arcadian and as a Messenian; and Crete is found as a district in Arcadia far away from the island; while Arcadia is not only a country in the Peloponnesus, but also a city in Crete, a city which is said to have had numerous Springs, all of which dried up when the city was, very anciently, razed to the ground. That town was afterwards rebuilt in the southeastern foothills of Mt. Ida, and the Springs reappeared in their former places. The second way, in accounting for the roots, is by con- ceiving that they sprouted in two or more places whose local and differing traditions persisted even after all Greece- dominated countries had accepted a national re- Hgion with only one family of gods, of which Zeus was the chief and mightiest. The Greeks, most admirably and in all sincerity, con- sidered their Zeus the chief god of the universe; and, as they became acquainted with foreign religions, they simply substituted Zeus for whatever the barbarians ignorantly called their own chief divinity. Thus in the course of time so many Zeuses were mentioned that Varro estimated the number of them at three hundred, many of whom no doubt had individual birth traditions, of which the most persistent were those of the original chief Cretan divinity and the original chief Arcadian divinity, two that may have been kept alive either through intense local 98 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS pride, or by writers loath to leave out of their records any fragment of ancient lore; records made before Hesiod's time, and long ago lost. A little village 1375 feet up the side of the Messenian mountain at present occupies part of the site of the an- cient city of Messene. It is named after the Spring Clepsydra which the people today call Mavromati, the Black Spring, whose stream, having with the assistance of an earthquake escaped from its old-time conduit, now dances in joyous freedom through the village street. Above the settlement some ruins of a pillared portico before a grotto cut in the mountain rock evidently mark a two-thousand-year-old resting-place that was made for the stream on its run from the source to the city. Another Spring called Clepsydra was at Athens; and Neda's Spring was in Arcadia. Pausanias; IV. 33. 84 Pamisus The sources of the Pamisus were near the northern boundary of the district, and the river in its course to the Gulf of Messenia cut the country into two nearly equal parts, coming out between the right arm and thigh of the short-legged and headless giant that is sketched by the outline of the Peloponnesus. Thus, traversing the entire extent of the district, it was from the Messenian point of view a worthy and im- pressive river, navigable, according to one of its eulogists, for a distance that would correspond, on the Mississippi, to one hundred and twenty-five miles. The waters of the Pamisus were clear and limpid, and MESSENIA 99 not full of mud as the other rivers were, and its fish were in consequence finer in appearance and more palatable than those that were fed in other streams on a more miry diet. The lands along its course were unusually fertik; and the annual sacrifice of the King was always made on its banks. Hence the whole community, the King, the farmer, the fisher, and even the fish, found reason for pride or pleasure in the Pamisus. Its most remarkable virtue, however, was a certain limited therapeutical power which enabled mothers who had any young Greek gamin with a disease to cure him merely by dipping him in the river water. Apparently the river's healing powers were not exerted for the benefit of girls or for a male beyond that stage when he is sometimes designated with no particular degree of respect as "the small boy." Someone may smile at the absurdity of the idea and at the credulity of people who could have such a belief; but there are many parents to-day living near the shore haunts of whales who do not lose the opportunity when one of those monsters is cast ashore, of placing their young children in its mouth, in the firm conviction that the children will absorb some of the whale's strength and longevity while in contact with its tissues. The Pamisus is now the Dhipotamo, the Double River. Pausanias; IV. 31. 85 Phar^ The town of Pharse lay a short distance to the east of the mouth of the River Pamisus, and six stadia from the sea. loo GREECE; PELOPONNESUS It had a grove of Carnean Apollo with a fountain of water in it. The town of Pharae in Achaia had a Well concerning which more information is given. The Messenian Pharae occupied the site of the present Kalamita, the modern capital of the country and the focus of the revolution that spread over Greece in 1 82 1 . Pausanias; IV. 31. 86 The Well Achaia The ruins of Dorium and the Well Achaia were beyond Polichne and the river Electra. It was there that Thamyris was stricken with blindness. The district of Achaia being far away from this Well, it is not clear why it was so called ; for it was not until the time of Sulla that Greece as a Roman province was known as Achaia. Perhaps some page of ancient history has been lost that would explain why the Well was so called, and why the harbor of the Messenian seaport town of Corone was called the Port of the Achasans ; as also why the hill near Samicum on the coast of Elis further north was in very ancient times called the Achaean Rocks. And the cause of Thamyris' blindness is a companion mystery. According to Homer it was the punishment for his effrontery in boasting that he could excel the Muses in singing. On the other hand, Prodicus said that the penalty was not exacted until Thamyris reached Hades. Still another authority, whose skepticism frequently crops out when relating matters of general belief among his contemporaries, attributes the loss of the boastful MESSENIA loi singer's eyesight to the same cause that made Homer blind — to a commonplace disease. The ruins of Dorium are supposed to be buried some- where in the plain now called Sulima. Pausanias; IV. 33. 87 CECHALIA The plain of Stenyclerus lay beyond the two rivers Leucasia and Amphitus, and opposite the plain was a grove of cypress trees, called, in ancient days, CEchalia, but in later times, that is, some two thousand years ago. The Carnasian Grove. The grove contained many statues and one of them, representing Demeter, was placed near a welling Spring of water. Mysterious rites were celebrated around the Spring in the wood, rites that were only second in sanctity to the mysteries of the Eleusinians, and any description of those rites was interdicted no less strictly than in Eleusis. The river Charadrus flowed along one side of the Car- nasian Grove. Charadrus was a common name in Greece for a moun- tain torrent, and the site of CEchalia was not agreed ttpon, even among ancient writers. Pausanias; IV. 33. Plataniston About twenty stadia from the town of Corone, which lay under the mountain Mathia, there was one of 102 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS that peculiar class of Springs that has a tree for its home. Possibly it is not a case of selection on the part of the Spring but of compulsion by the tree whose roots in their powerful boring through the earth, penetrate an under- ground current and open up a new outlet that pressure compels it to use. In this instance it was a platanos, a plane tree, that gave the Spring its name, and that housed it like a small cave, broad and hollow. A strong stream of fresh water flowed from the tree and ran all the way to Corone which was a modern town before History began to reckon from the Christian era, and grew over what had been an old town called Mpea, among the ruins of which the builders of the new one dug up a brass crow, for which their word was Corone. Corone was a seaport on the western side of the Mes- senian Gulf and is now named Petalidhi. Pausanias; IV. 34. 89 MOTHONE Mothone, at the extreme south west point of Mes- senia, was a very old town which was known as Pedasus before the Trojan war, and was only given the other name after that event, probably to honor Mothone the daughter of Diomede, not the ferocious Thracian King who fed his man-eating horses on the prisoners he cap- tured in his conflicts, but the hero who next to Achilles was the most illustrious of the expeditionary forces. Mothone possessed what was probably a valuable MESSENIA 103 asset in a peculiar Well that contained a mixture of water and pitch that resembled Cyzicenian ointment. The town also had a temple to the Goddess of the Winds; it was erected in gratitude to Athena who, in answer to the prayers of Diomede, had relieved the town of a constant scourge of violent and unseasonable winds that frequently blew over it and caused great damage. After the prayers were offered no trouble from wind ever came to the townspeople thenceforward, and the temple was built to prove to the goddess how deeply they appre- ciated her kind interference in their behalf. Modon is the modern name of the place, but search and inquiry for the peculiar Well have proved fruitless. Pausanias; IV. 35. ELIS 90 PlERA The District of Elis was the cradle of Athletics. There was wrestling in the plain of Olympia before there was writing at the foot of Parnassus, for, as early as fifty years after the Deluge of Deucalion contests were held in that plain, where, between Olympia and Elis, the fountain of Piera was located. And even before the days of mankind, the gods held contests there, Apollo boxing with Ares, and racing with Hermes; and, earlier still, it was the scene of the contest between Zeus and Cronus. While poets of all recent ages have glorified the Pierian Spring of Parnassus and trumpeted in numerous tongues the debt they supposedly owed it for inspiration, the fountain of Piera to which the athletic world is no less indebted, still needs a minstrel to exalt it. Even Pindar, the poet of the prize ring and the race- course and all the departments that made up the pen- tathlum, neglected this fountain when a line from him would have given it as prominent a place in the world of athletics as the other holds in the realm of rythmic writing. But while today the poorest penny-a-liner poet can tell the taste of the distant Spring in Phocis, blind- folded, perhaps not one athlete in a million even knows of the existence of the sanctioning Spring of Elis! No athletic contest could take place without it. Time 104 ELIS 105 is told, and History is written by the Olympiads, but no Olympiad could begin until the waters of the fountain of Piera had given the requisite permission, a sanction more powerful than that of the A. A. A. U. of today , for the athletes of the whole ancient world were subject at Olympia to the authorization that no ink and no water other than the water of this fountain made valid. Here and there a poet may compose without first re- freshing himself with a draft from the Spring of the Muses, but not even the most unconventional wrestler could fake a part of a round until this fountain had per- formed its law-assigned function, because no Olympian Umpire was qualified to act until after the sacrifice of a pig, and lustrations of water from the fountain of Piera. In the nearby temple of Ilithyia it was a custom for the venerable Priestess to set before the goddess cakes kneaded with honey, and to bring lustral water to her, and perhaps this fountain supplied the water for the goddess as well as for the Umpires of the godless athletes whose fines for bribery and other offenses supplied enough to make numbers of the statues that were displayed in the Olympian temple. It was a remarkable incident that led to the construc- tion of the temple of Ilithyia, for it is said that once when the Argives invaded Elis a woman came to the command- ing General of the defense with a baby which she had been apprized in a dream would make the defenders victorious. The naked baby having been set down before the army, probably while they discussed what warlike use could be made of it, it suddenly turned into a dragon, which so frightened the invaders that they fled, and being pursued they were routed without difficulty. As the miracle was attributed to Ilythia the temple was con- structed to commemorate it, and the prescribed lustra- I06 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS tions no doubt furnished a new use for the waters of the fountain of Piera. Oxylus, the three-eyed King, had a wife called Pieria, but nothing is recorded about her, and, although the names are nearly alike, it is not probable that there was any connection between her and this fountain, for Oxy- lus from the humble occupation of muleteer stepped in one stride to the throne. It was a curious illustration of the wobbles of the wheel of fortune, and of the fondness that Good Luck has for presenting herself disguised temporarily as her opposite, his assumption of the ermine being due solely to his mule's having had only one good eye ; thus, on a certain occasion, while the people were trying to guess the meaning of an oracle advising them to make a man with three eyes their leader in a contemplated expedition, Oxylus chanced to trudge by at the side of his wall-eyed mule, and,"in a flash, one of the sharp wits, Cresphontes, saw the answer in the sightless eye, and the leader of a mule became the leader of a people, and their King. It may have been Cresphontes too, who, when on the death of Oxylus' son another oracle commanded that the body should not be buried either in or out of the city, had the grave dug across the boundary line by the gate of the road to Olympia and the Spring. The old Olympic field, after producing athletes of world renown for many ages, has in modern times been used to raise a very different crop, its long and level expanse of plain opposite Lala being covered with corn- fields in the making of which few reminders of the many and magnificent buildings connected with the classic athletic grounds have been allowed to remain and ob- struct the plow, or rob the roots of room and nutriment. Pausanias; V. 4. 16. ELIS 107 91 Pisa Pisa was a fountain in the territory of the Pisatis, a very ancient people who disappeared after Horaer's time. The town of Pisa was founded by Pelops. Some of its people, or their successors, went to Italy and founded the Pisa of Etruria. The name of the fountain signified "potable, " but even ancient writers were not agreed on other points regarding Pisa; some said it had been a city which took its name frona a fountain; while others held that there had been no such city, but only the fountain, and that the fountain was the one called Bisa near Cicysium. Denial of Pisa's existence is accounted for by its having been completely destroyed in 572 B.C., in the last of many conflicts its people had with the Eleians over the presi- dency of the Olympic Festivals, an office that no doubt controlled a large and profitable patronage. Pisa is supposed to have occupied the land along the eastern side of the Olympia athletic grounds by the rivu- let now called Miraka, whose source, in that case, is the Spring of Pisa that caused as many discussions as the city caused conflicts. Strabo; VIII. 3. S 3i. 92 Salmone The fountain of Salmone was near a city of the same name which belonged to the old Pisatis and was founded by King Salmoneus a brother of Sisyphus, and the son of ^olus. Salmoneus came from Thessaly, and he attempted to usurp the place of Zeus among his subjects, who were io8 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS commanded to make their sacrifices to him instead of to the god. To impress them with his mightiness he pro- duced thunder and hghtning, by driving about in a chariot to which were loosely attached numbers of re- sounding substances, and by throwing lighted torches over their heads from time to time. In the end, a flash of real lightning destroyed both him and his city. The king's daughter Tyro became enamored with the fountain and often added her tears to its waters which were the source of the river Enipeus, which was once called Barnichius, and flowed into the Alpheus near its mouth. There were many reasons for Tyro's tears besides the sacrilege of Salmoneus. She was so shamefully ill-treated by her stepmother Sidero that the latter was eventually killed by Tyro's son, and that son, Pelias, came to a shocking end at the hands of his own daughters, being cut up and boiled until there was hardly enough of him left to bury — a result that no one deplored more than the daughters, who had followed a recipe given by Medea, which they fully believed would cause their father's re- juvenation. (See No. no.) The stream from the fountain of Salmone was ab- sorbed by the Alpheus near its mouth and was the last river, of any size, of the many that the Alpheus greedily swallowed during its journey to the sea. Strabo; VIII. 3 $32. 93 Cytherus The district of Elis had a score, and more, of rivers, some of which rose beyond its boundaries, but the Springs ELIS 109 of many of them were indigenous to the district, and, as leprosy originated in Elis and made its home there, it is easy to suppose that there was no less enterprise in turn- ing such Springs to good account than there is at the Spas of modern resorts. Something to cure leprosy would have been in the greatest demand, but other afflictions would also have cried out for relief, and for these the Spring of Cytherus offered a general balm. It was apparently a source of the river of the same name, and belonged to the village of Heraclea some 50 stadia from Olympia. It was presided over by four nymphs called the lonides; they were Calliphasa, Synallaxis, Pegsea, and lasis, and got their collective name from Ion the son of Gargettus who migrated there from Athens. The number of the nymphs indicates that the village did a thriving business in sacrificial fees and offerings from the patrons of the Spring which was held to be a univer- sal panacea, so that people bathing in its waters got cured of pains and aches of every kind. Heraclea is assumed to have been where the modern village of Bruma is located, and Strefi, a little brook of the neighborhood, is supposed to have been called the Cytherus river. Pausanias; VI. 22. 94 Letrini Letrini was i8o stadia from Elis, and about 6 stadia beyond it there was a perennial lake some three stadia in diameter which was fed from ever-flowing Springs below it. no GREECE; PELOPONNESUS Letrini was once a small town but in Pausanias' time there were only a few buildings of it left, including a temple with a statue of Alphea Artemis who was so designated because Alpheus was for a time deeply fascinated with her; instead of resorting to flight, however, and crossing the sea by a submarine route as Arethusa did when she was the object of the affec- tions of the same lover, Artemis adopted a less stren- uous and exhausting expedient to rid herself of his importunities; thus, divining that her admirer had re- solved to bring his solicitations to a climax, at one of the nightly revels in which she and her sportive compan- ions indulged near Letrini, she merely smeared the faces of her nymphs and herself with a paste of earth and water, so that Alpheus could not distinguish one mud- masked beauty from another, and seeing nothing attrac- tive in any of the dirty divinities, he departed in silence and disgust. While this simple way of checking the advances of ardent but unwelcome suitors never came into popular use, it is said that a modification of the stratagem was adopted by the stanch friends of the nun whose hair a spying Prioress cut off in the dark for purposes of identification, only to find in the morning that every- one of her saintly charges had discarded her crown of beauty. As this perennial lake is the only one mentioned in the neighborhood of the Artemis incident, it was doubtlese with mud from its margin that the artful divinity effected the disguise of herself and her faithful companions. The monastery of St. John near the foot of Katakolo is thought to occupy the site of Letrini. PaHsaoiftSi VI. s?. ELIS III 95 Arene The Spring of Arene was not far from the city of Lepreus that got its name from the misfortunes of its inhabitants, who were the first lepers. According to tradition the Spring received its name from the wife of Aphareus who seems to have had a great fondness for her, as another of his cities, in Messenia, also bears her name. Possibly Arene drowned herself in this Spring as her female descendants were addicted to suicide. One of her sons, Lynceus, might easily be shown, by the favorite way of interpreting ancient descriptions, to have been the first discoverer of the properties of the X-ray, for it is recorded that he could see through the trunk of a tree. (See No. 322.) In all likelihood this Spring located the pre-ancient town called Arene whose ruins, very near the river Aniger, were perhaps once a part of the city of Samicum, if indeed Samicum was not called Arene in very early days, for Homer says: — "There is a river Minyeius that flows into the sea near to Arene," and it is known that the ancient name of the Aniger was Minyeius. The name of this river recalls an old version of the fifth of the dozen labors of Hercules that is far more interest- ing than the current account, and makes it more like a labor than the cleansing of a stable seems to be, and more commensurate with the alleged capacity of the hero for performing gargantuan feats. According to that old version it was not a stable but a whole district that was cleansed, for Augeus, the King of Elis, had such immense herds and flocks that most of the country was deeply buried under the' accumulations of their dung and could therefore not be cultivated. 112 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS The depth of this overlying stratum was so great, and the work of removing it was considered one of such mag- nitude that Hercules is said to have secured the promise of a part of the Kingdom if he accomplished the labor, which he successfully did by flooding the country with the waters of the Minius. Possibly it was because the Minius is only a small brook that the large river Peneus was substituted in the later version, instead of accepting the Aniger, under its Homeric name of Minyeius, as the stream that was utilized by Hercules. Perhaps also the incident was in reality only on a par with the killing of the Hydra of Lerna, and the little brook became a river by the same kind of creative power that made the mountain out of a molehill; but, to con- tinue the old version, when the present method of clean- ing a city, which is only an adaptation of that employed by Hercules to cleanse a kingdom, had brought the long- hidden surface of the earth to view again and restored it to cultivation, Augeus refused to pay the price, on the quibble that using a river as a hose was novel and in- genious, but was not work. Then, as if that refusal by itself was not sufficiently provoking, Eurystheus, whose primogeniture had em- powered him to harry his brother Hercules with ten labors, refused to count the cleaning as one of them, and imposed upon him an additional task as punishment for trying to graft by inducing the King to pay him for what he knew he had to do without remuneration. The repudiation, on the part of the King, led to a bitter war during which Hercules captured and sacked Elis, and stripped the country of young men to such an extent that the women of the land prayed to Athena to intermit for a time one of the laws of generation. Those ELIS 113 prayers the goddess answered with so much satisfaction to the suppliants that they called their Gretna Green, and the river that flowed through it, by the name of Bady, which in their language meant sweet. The modern village of Strovitzi is near the Spring of Arene. Pausanias; V. 5. 6. 1. 96 Aniger The Springs of the ancient Minyeius, the Aniger, which were in the mountain Lapithus, had a very un- pleasant smell that could be distinguished several miles away. The water was so fetid that until it had been impreg- nated by its first tributary, the Acidas, which was an- ciently called the lardanus, no fish would swim in it, and even after the confluence of the waters such fish as ven- tured from the Acidas into the main stream became inedible. Among the natives and other Greeks there were various theories concerning the cause of the nuisance; some averring that Chiron, when he had been inadvertently wounded by Hercules' arrow tipped with the poison of the Hydra, fled to this Spring and washed his sore in it. Others, possibly thinking that the wisest and most just of the Centaurs would never have desecrated a Spring in that manner, called Pylenor the culprit. Still another theory was that Melampus, the son of Am}rthaon, when curing the daughters of Proetus threw the purifications into this Spring. Local pride and dissimulation may have had nothing 114 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS to do with these explanations, but a thoughtful tourist two thousand years ago might have wondered why the effects of such very ancient incidents had not worn off during the lapse of time, and might have considered that there were enough contemporary sores afflicting the living lepers of the state to contaminate the water and give it an evil flavor, for it was a current practice of the lepers of the district to swim in the Aniger in the belief that its waters were a cure for their endemical disease. Even at the mouth of the river this pernicious practice was followed, and there was a cave at Samicum, called the Cave of the Nymphs of the Aniger, and a Spring called the Fountain of the Anigriades, where such as suffered from either the Black or the White leprosy had only to enter the cave and pray to the nymphs and, not forgetting to promise to sacrifice to them, wipe the dis- eased parts clean, and afterwards swim across the river ; when they reached the other side they were well and their skin was uniformly clear. Pausanias was of the opinion that the taint of the water was due to some ingredient of the soil, as he said was the case with those rivers "beyond Ionia" whose exhalations were lethal ; but in those days one might slander to his spleen's content anything east of Asia Minor or west of Spain for those parts of the world were terrors incognita to everybody who lived in the zone that lay between them. Samicum is midway between the mouths of the Alpheus and the Neda rivers, and its Cave of the Nymphs, the Anagriades, fronts on a lagoon formed by the Anigrus, the Aniger river, so that to reach it one must use a boat, or swim as the cure seekers of old did. There are nvunerous Springs in the deep lagoon whose exhalations continue to taint the air with fetid odors ; and ELIS 115 pure yellow sulphur is brought out by the waters that seep through the walls of the cavern. Strabo; VIII. 3. § 19. Pausanias: V. 6. 97 Cruni The Spring called Cruni was between the river Chalcis and a village of the same name as the river. This locality seems to have been somewhere between Samicum and Olympia. strabo; VIII. 3- § I3- ACHAIA 98 Patrm Patras was 80 stadia from the river Pirus. It was founded by an Autochthon who received from Triptole- mus the first corn, and it was then named Aroe because its soil was the first in the neighborhood to be harrowed. The women at Patrae were twice as numerous as the men and were devoted to Aphrodite; their principal occu- pation was making nets, for the hair and for dresses; and the theater of the town was more beautiful than any in Greece except the one at Athens. Aphrodite had a sacred enclosure near the harbor and a wooden statue, the fingers, toes, and head of which were of stone. There was also a grove near the sea which had a race- course and was a most salubrious place of resort in svun- mer time. In this grove there was a temple to Aphrodite, and another one to Demeter in front of which was a Well with a stone wall on the side of the temple and a descent to it on the outside. Such truth was there in the water that it was an un- erring oracle in cases of disease, but apparently it pos- sessed no curative power, and was able to do no more than predict whether a sick person would get well or would succiunb to the malady. The process seems to have been of the nature of crystal gazing and was carried out by means of a mirror that was 116 ACHAIA 117 let down into the Well by a light cord and delicately poised so that the rim of the mirror alone should touch the water without being covered by it. Such as suc- ceeded in performing this balancing feat, after saying a prayer and burning some incense, had only to look into the mirror to see what the result of the disease would be. They had a chest at Patrae that had been made by Vulcan, the same one that Eurypylus brought from Troy; a relic so carefully treasured that no one was ever ac- corded permission to see it. Patrae still retains its old name and is one of the most important towns of the Peloponnesus, being, as of old, a port much used by travelers between Italy and Greece. Like all long-inhabited Greek towns, it has few remains of antiquity ; but it still preserves the ancient Well which is under a vault of the church of St. Andrew, the patron saint of the present town. Pausanias; VII. 21. VII. 8. 99 Phar^ Pharae was 150 stadia frora Patrae; it was on the river Pierus, and had a remarkable grove of plane trees, most of them hollow from old age, and of such great size that one could eat and sleep inside of them. The water at Pharae was sacred and was called Hermes' Well, and the god's statue and his oracle were in the center of the market place. Instead of the eye, and auto-suggestion which were relied on at Patras, the ear of the inquirer was the oracle's medium at Pharae. The consultations took place in the evening; on a stone hearth before the statue frank- Ii8 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS incense was burned and then oil was poured into lamps that were fastened to the hearth with lead, and the lamps were lit. A brass coin was deposited on the altar at the right of the statue, and the inquirer then whispered his question into its ear and, stopping up his own ears, walked out of the market place. Then he uncovered his ears, and whatever he first heard was to be construed as the answer he sought. The Hermes statue was of stone and square-shaped, and near it were thirty square stones each called by the name of one of the gods, and, following the early-time custom of all of the Greeks when they paid to unhewn stones, and not to statues, the honors due unto the gods, the townspeople venerated the thirty stones very highly. Remains of the Achaian Pharse have been found near the village of Prevezo, but recent explorers do not men- tion the Well. (See No. 105.) Pausanias: VII. 22. 100 Well of Argyra Some almost untraceable ruins near the river Charad- rus were all that was left of the town of Argyra. But the Spring of the town had survived and was on the right side of the highroad near the River Selemnus. And the legend of the two, built only with breath but more enduring than the town and as lasting as time, was told in the neighboring villages to any inquisitive stranger. Argyra was a sea nymph who used to come up from the sea to spend every spare moment in the company of the handsome shepherd Selemnus and pretend to help him watch his feeding flock. ACHAIA 119 For some reason and very suddenly, the shepherd lost his good looks, and at the same time Argyra lost her love, and left him. The sad spectacle of the poor lad, uglj^ and dying for love, awakened the sympathy of- Aphrodite and she turned him into the river, and not only granted him for- getfulness of the inconstant sea nymph but made the water a love cure, so that both men and women who bathed in it were troubled no more. Many listeners were pleased with the legend, but one of them was inclined to think that if it had been true the town would never have perished but would have become a daily Mecca for all mankind, as the water of Argyra, which seems to have been the source of the river Selem- nus, would have been more sought after than great wealth. The Selemnus flows into the sea west of the point farthest north in the Peloponnesus, now Cape Drepano, and Argyra's site was a little inland from the river's mouth. Pausanias; VII. 23. lOI Well of JEgwm On the seashore at ^Egium there was a Well that furnished good water abundantly. It was surrounded with a number of temples and statues including one of Zeus the Gatherer, erected because it was at ^giiun that Agamemnon gathered the most famous men in Greece to deliberate in common how best to attack the realm of Priam. It was the people of this town who first made cook- I20 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS shops of the sacrificial altars, and reduced the high cost of sacrificing by eating the fire-cooked animal victims. iEgium became the chief city of Achaia after the de- struction of Helice on a night in 373 B.C. when an earth- quake suddenly opened a chasm into which Helice dropped, followed by the sea which drowned every in- habitant and hid the city from sight. The meetings of the Achaean League (of twelve cities) were held near the sea in the same grove used by Aga- memnon when planning his Trojan campaign. Mgrnm under its modern name of Vostitza narrowly escaped the fate of Helice, when, on the 23d of August, 1 81 7, two-thirds of the city were destroyed by an earth- quake accompanied with sounds that resembled a can- nonade. Vostitza occupies a high bluff on the coast east of Cape Drepano. Pausanias; VII. 24. 102 Springs of the Mys^um The copius Springs of the Mysaeum were used in the peculiar ceremonies of the seven-day festival that was held in the Mysaeum which was one of several temples that were erected by Mysius, an Argive, to commemorate the honor that Demeter had paid him by accepting the hospitality of his house. This one of the temples was some sixty stadia from Pellene, and its Springs were in a grove of all kinds of trees which surrounded the building in which the festival was celebrated, some of the mysteries of which were concealed even from a part of the devotees themselves, ACHAIA 121 for on the third of the seven days during which the feast and revels were prolonged males of whatever kind, even dogs, were excluded, and the women passed the night in mysterious performances, the nature of which the men could only guess at, and about which, when the men re- sumed participation in the rites on thefollowing day, there was much laughter and bantering between the two sexes. The present Trikkala is taken to be the place where the two temples, Mysasum and Cyros, stood. Pausanias; VII. 27. VII. 23. 103 Cyros Near the Mysaeum there was a temple of y^sculapius called Cyros where cures were effected; and connected with the temple there were a number of fountains whose waters were probably utilized in some of the many ways adopted by the .(Esculapian cult, as a statue of the god was prominently placed at the side of the largest of the fountains. All the differences of opinion about the ancestry of ^sculapius and the many mothers and fathers he had, were finally swept away by assuming that he never had any, and that his story was the allegory of an idea. This idea can be traced back to Phoenicia, but after a time it became dormant and was not revived again until the twentieth century when it was introduced as something entirely new. The original idea was that jEsculapius was nothing more than the typification of health — of which Fresh Air and Sunlight are the parents! (See No. 59.) Pausanias; VII. 27. VII. 23. 122 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS 104 Sybaris This fountain was in the town of Bura, a place so suddenly destroyed by the earthquake in 373 B.C., that all of the inhabitants perished, as related of its neighbor Helice in connection with the Well of ^gium. It is said that for centuries afterwards those who sailed along the coast when the water was smooth could discern the ruins of the wrecked city at the bottom of the sea below them. As a city seldom has a watery grave, there is an un- canny coincidence between this catastrophe and the burial by water, 1 37 years earlier, of the far-away Magna Graecia city Sybaris, that, founded by people from Bura and named after the fountain in that town, was over- whelmed with the waters of a river, as related under The Fountain of Blood, No. 211. Ovid; Metamorphoses; XV. Fable 3. Strabo;VIII.7. §5- DiRCE In the territory of Phara in Achaia there was a Foun- tain of Dirce, of the same name as that at Thebes. This is the same place as Pharas where Hermes' Well was consulted in a peculiar way by such as wished to know about future events. (See No. 99.) Strabo; VIII. 7. §5. 1 06 Cymothe The fountain of Cymothe was in Achaia, according to Pliny, but he makes no mention of its. whereabouts. Pliny;Nat. Hist. IV. 6. SICYONIA 107 Dripping Well The town of Sicyon had a Spring near the gate, the water of which oozed through the roof of a cave that con- tained its basin, and it was called the Dripping Well. 2089 B.C. is sometimes given as the starting-point of Grecian chronology, and the year of the founding of Sicyon; that is according to the computations of Eusebius, but, accepting Herodotus as the older authority and taking his time, about 2100 B.C., as the period when Thebes was laid out, Sicyon may well be assumed to have originated years before thai, for the small and select circle known as Society had its beginning in Sicyon some time after the dawn of Creation, when the place was called Mecone and there were male inhabitants although woman had, as yet, never been heard of; for in the Gre- cian order of development ntmierous goddesses and thousands of naiads and nymphs afforded mortals an extensive circle of female acquaintance for some period before Woman was eventually created — created, not as a help, meet for Man, but to make him miserable. The incohesive scheme of Grecian creation though very crude was perhaps an improvement on still older schemes from which it was copied. The Egyptian parentage of the plan is clearly shown in the resemblance between one persistent and repugnant feature that is common in sketches of creation, a feature that originally 123 124 GREECE; PELOPONNESUS and in Egypt quite unobjectionable, the Grecians, in a measure, modified. Though they were content to tolerate any kind of con- duct among their gods, their creation of the human race was so arranged that marriages were made between such as had no ties of kinship; and from their human males and females, created separately, there flowed smoothly and naturally a continuous stream of genealogy that ran through no unlocated land peopled with a race that was unaccounted for in the creative scheme. That beginning of Society, its first and greatest event, was the "coming out" of the original Woman — her in- troduction to the world outside of the Court of Divinities in which she had been designed and brought to perfection by receiving from each divinity some attribute or adorn- ment to make her irresistibly attractive; for this First Lady of mythology is introduced girdled with golden chains, and arrayed and perfumed with flowers, and not garbed with the simple and ascetic fig leaf in which Eve made her first appearance in the Terrestrial Paradise. Felicitously named Pandora, the all-gifted, she soon became the wife of Epimetheus, the brother of Prome- theus in punishment for whose theft of fire from heaven she had been made to bring misery on the human race, on the somewhat inconsiderate system that makes an innocent someone else suffer for another's wrong. Little is known of the life of Epimetheus after his marriage. Possibly he was drowned in the Grecian flood that occurred in the time of his daughter Pyrrha who, with her husband Deucalion, repeopled the inundated district, by throwing behind them stones that became men or women, according to the sex of the thrower. But however miserable Epimetheus may have been with his beautiful mischief of a wife, his brother Prome- SICYONIA 125 theus must often have wished he was in his place, for, though finally blessed with immortality, he was for many long years chained to a rock, and furnished countless meals to a ravenous bird that fed on his liver which was every night freshly renewed for the bird's next breakfast. (See No. 278.) Sicyon was two miles from the Corinthian Gulf. It was called Aegialea at the same period in which it was called Mecone. There are some ruins of its temples and other large buildings which are now surrounded by the village of Vasilika. The Dripping Well, or Dropping Fountain, which was at the Corinthian Gate, has disappeared; its producing rocks, probably broken up by the earthquake that de- stroyed the town, have crumbled to pieces and no longer act as a reservoir. Pausanias; II. 7. ApoUodorusjI. 7. §3. CORINTHIA 1 08 Corinth In Corinth and its immediate suburbs there came during the progress of its civilization to be many foun- tains, the works of man, constructed in connection with a water supply through an aqueduct from Lake Stym- phalus. (See No. 21.) Claiming, as Corinth did, to be the birthplace of Grecian painting and a center of artistic impulses, these fountains represented the best endeavors of the artists to produce works that should challenge admiration for beauty of form and decoration; and there was no lack of means to insure perfection, for Homer in his day styled Corinth wealthy, and an individual citizen could afford to have a life-size statue made of pure gold. And no doubt wealth was still plentiful 900 years later when Diogenes, unable to find honesty at home, his banl