LIBRARY OF THE NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMICS CORNELL UNIVERSITY ITHACA, NEW YORK RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA, N. Y. Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003587965 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING DINNER TABLE, FIRST COURSE. (Ses pages 642 and 643.) LUNCHEON TABLE, CENTREPIECE OF SWEET PEAS. PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING A COMPLETE MANUAL OF HOW TO SELECT, PREPARE, AND SERVE FOOD BY JANET McKENZIE HILL EDITOR OF "the BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE* AUTHOR OF "salads, SANDWICHES, AND CHAFING-DISH DAINTIES" WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS Garden City New York DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 1919 Copyright, 1902, 1912, by DOUBLEDAY, PaGE & COMPANY All rights reserved, including that of translation into foreign languages, including the Scandinavian "Certainly," replied the oracle, "study the art of pleasing by dress and manner as long as you are of an age to interest us; and, above all, let all women, pretty and plain, married and single, study the art of cookery. If you are an artist in the kitchen, you will always be esteemed. Only be careful, in study- ing both arts, never to forget the great truth that dinner precedes blandishments, and not blandishments dinner." Elizabeth and Her German Garden I KEGARD the discovery of a dish a far more interesting event than the dis- covery of a star, for we have already stars enough, but we can never have too many dishes; and I shall not regard the sciences as sufficiently honored or adequately repiesented among us until I see a cook in the first class of the [French] Institute. HotisiON DE Penesey (o learned French judge). PREFACE Tms book is designed to be something more than a compilation of recipes — though recipes make up a large portion of its con- tents. Cookery is a necessary art, and an art that is worthy the attention of the most intelligent and cultivated women of the land. How few women realize that the warp and woof of our muscular and nervous systems are woven out of the food we eat, or that food even more than environment makes or mars the individual. In the arrangement of subject matter into chapters, the time- honored divisions into bread, soups, eggs, fish, etc., have been retained, though this plan is not strictly scientific. In the sec- ondary grouping of topics in the various chapters, an attempt has been made, as far as possible, to classify the matter in a systematic and scientific manner. The relation between the various sub- divisions, and their interdependence not only upon each other, but also upon divisions made in other parts of the volume, is shown. In this and other respects we claim that the book is a step in ad- vance on all preceding works on cookery — from which we hereby acknowledge we have drawn inspiration and aid. The remark has been made recently by an authority on the subject that "a good cook does not need recipes." ThK is, per- haps, in accordance with the idea that cooks, like poets, are bom and not made. But while a grain of truth may lie hidden in this statement, still there is room for misunderstanding and a well- founded difference of opinion. In the science and art of cookery, we are dealing with materials that cannot bcs^d to have a fixed value; yet the effects of heat and moisture, atVa,mng degrees of temperature, and the several combinations neceksMy to secure definite results imder ordinary circumstances, mayvJjecome as thoroughly fixed in mind as the multiplication table or the declen- sion of noims. A cook with this fundamental knowledge under- stands the relation between a sauce thickened with roux, a custard souflSe, an ice cream thickened with starchy material, and many an entree. She knows the probable value, or jellying quality, of a certain quantity of starch or gelatine, and with no fear of failure vii viii PREFACE she adds whipped white of egg, or cream, to the remnants of a fruit jelly to produce, respectively, a charlotte or a Bavarian cream, and thus formulates recipes to make use of the materials she has on hand. But while the majority of ^girls in America become proficient in mathematics before the age of fifteen, as yet it is only the favored few who receive any systematic training in the principles of cookery, and hence there still seems to be a demand for reliable formulas in accordance with which food materials may be successfully com- bined. Then, again, progress is made in cookery as in other arts and what is considered a good method of procedure to-day may be much improved upon to-morrow. For these and other excellent reasons we have endeavored to note and to illustrate the latest and best in manipulation and appliance that pertaineth to the culinary art. Recipes are given for simple everyday dishes and also for such as are in demand on the most formal occasions. To insure ac- curacy, it is to be noted that in all recipes where flour is used, im- less otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A tablespooiiful or a teaspoonful of any des- ignated material is a level spoonful of such material. The recipes are of dishes prepared by the author diuing an experience of twenty years in housekeeping; these are supple- niented by dishes prepared to illustrate demonstrations in cookery given before classes of housekeepers in New England, the Middle West and the South. A few formulas are favorite recipes donated by cooking teachers, cooks and housekeepers of note in various sections of the country. A part of these have been tried by the author and found excellent; others have not been so tested, but in all cases the name accom- panying the recipe is guaranty of the quality of the dish. Many of these recipes appear now for the first time in print; others have been published in the Boston Cooking School Magazine, and still others have accompanied illustrations by the author in The Ladies' Home Journal. As the main idea in The Journal was pictorial rather than literary, the details of conibination were not dwelt upon in that publication; these are here, together with the illus- trations, now made complete. Recognizing the fact that names were originally ^ven com- binations for specific reasons, which still have meaning to the initiated, an attempt has been made to preserve the original names PREFACE ix of (lishes, and to avoid designating at random other combinations, which are f owided upon the original or derivative idea. In respect to the illustrations, the fact that a dish presents an attractive appearance does not argue necessarily that it is ex- pensive. A simple mold of pink rhubarb jelly, surrounded with whipped cream, presents an elegant or showy appearance, yet with rhubarb at two cents per pound and sugar at six the (Ush could not be considered too elaborate or expensive for occasional use. The difference in cost of materials and time expended is not so great that it should be considered burdensome to present a dish finished with a sprig of parsley, a curl of bacon, one or two toast points, or, occasionally, as in the case of a sweet, with half a cup of whipped cream. If the habit of making all dishes attractive be once acquired, the extra time will not be noted or the effort given a thought. Of the illustrations, some are given to make plain the different processes in cooking, or to show the utensils used in the several operations. Others are given as a guide in serving — i. e., to show how the finished dish should appear. Dainty serving is intimately connected with dainty cooking. In fact, it is the climax of the art of cookery. Though hints on serv- ing will be found scattered throughout the volume, a special chapter is devoted to garnishing and serving, and another to the art of hospitality and the etiquette of entertaining. Taking into consideration the present large and rapidly increas- ing number of women who are interested in providing a well- balanced dietary for their families, the chemical composition of the various food products, as given in the bulletin prepared by Pro- fessor Atwater for the United States Department of Agriculture, has been presented at the head of the respective chapters. To follow the laboratory standards accurately, as these are given for different classes and ages of individuals, calls for more time and apphances than the average housekeeper has at her command. Indeed, this will not be attempted in daily life, except occasionally, unless by specialists; nor is this in any sense a necessity. But a study of these tables, in connection with the matter in Chapter I, Part I, and in Chapters II and IV, in Part III, will enable the thoughtful housekeeper, in planning her weekly bills of fare, to secure, approximately, the right proportions of the various food principles, or, if she wills to do so, as accurately as in the work of the specialist. But we believe that a woman's duty does not end in the selection X PREFACE of food containing the proper proportions of the various food prin- ciples. What does it aveul to select wisely if in cooking we lose the nutritive value originally found in the product, or if, through monotony in manner of preparation, the food fail to be assimilated? That tiie careful use of this book may enable the thoughtful mistress or maid to take the most common and inexpensive food products and so prepare them as to bring out and conserve their latent and nutritive qualities of juiciness and flavor, and at the same time render them pleasing to the eye and acceptable to the palate, is the earnest desire of the author. CONTENTS PART I "Tutor'd in the rudiments." I will tell you the beginning, and if it please your ladyships you may see the end. — As You Like It, i, 2. CHAPTER PAGE I. Definition of Food. Object in Cooking Food. The Kitchen Raxige. Food Principles i II. Cooking of Starch and Albumen 6 HI. Elementary Processes of Cooking 10 IV. Processes and Terms used in Cooking 18 V. Cook's Time Table. Tables of Proportions, Weights and Measures 33 PART U If a man or a woman has not the soul of a cook, the most minute recipe will only end in failure. — Kettner, I. Beverages 39 II. Eggs SS m. Fish and Its Cookery. Frogs and Terrapin .... 73 IV. Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, Pork in V. Poultry and Game < 148 VI. Soups and Soup Making 170 Vn. Sauces i99 Vin. Complex Meat and Fish Dishes: Entries, R^chaufffe, etc. . 221 IX. Vegetables and Their Cookery 258 X. Com Plants used as Breakfast Food and Vegetables . 296 XI. Chafing Dish Cookery and Services ... . 307 Xn. Salads, Sandwiches and Hors d'CEuvres . • 3^7 XIII. Cheese and What Can be Done With It . -343 XIV. Batters and Doughs . . ... 35": XV. Bread and Bread Making . . . . . . 3S8 XVI. Cake and Cake Making 387 zi jrii CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I XVn. Cake Icings and Decorations 422 XVIII. Pastry and Pies 43S XIX. Puddings and Dessert Dishes 4S4 i XX. Cold Dessert Dislies 4S9 i XXI. Hot Puddings, etc 488 XXII. Sweet Sauces 505 XXin. Fruit, Fresh and Cooked, for Immediate Use . . .514 XXIV. The Preservation of Fruit 534 XXV. Frozen Desserts SS^ XXVI. Boiling Sugar. Candy Making 581 XXVII. Food for the Sick and Convalescent 594 PART III The pleasure of the table is peculiar to the human species; it supposes antecedent attention to the preparation of the repast. Haywaed. I. Marketing. Care of Food and Cooking Utensils n. Office of Food in the Body . III. Referring to a Well-balanced Menu or Dietary IV. The Physiology of Digestion V. Suggestions on Garnishing and Serving VI. Hospitality and the Etiquette of Entertaining VII. Menus for Occasions 609 616 619 62s 630 63s 657 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE Alaska, Baked j... ,.v. . . . 621 Apple Charlotte 596 Apples, Duchess Style ' 596 Apple with Junket, etc 652 Apples with Sauce, Blushing . 596 Asparagus Salad in Jelly 276 Banana Shortcake 469 Bavarian Cream, Apricot with Snow Eggs 548 Bavarian Cream, Pineapple 548 Bavarian Cream with Prunes, Rice 549 Beans, Boston Baked 164 Beans, Boston Baked, Ready for Baking 164 Beef, Fillet of. Larded 12 Beef, Cannelon of, with Macaroni 140 Beef Cutlets, Ragout of Macaroni with 205 Beef au Gratin, Creamed Corned 236 Beef, Rib Roast of 140 Beefsteak, Sirloin 141 Biscuit, Oatmeal 364 Blackberry Sponge 597 Bonbons 653 Boned and Stuffed Fowl, Larded 13 Bread and Moulds, Brown 397 Bread, Entire Wheat 397 Bread Making, Utensils for 397 Bread with Raisins, Boston Brown 405 Breadstick Pan and Breadsticks 364 Brioche: Process of Shaping into Coffee Rolls 404 Buns, Hot Cross 365 Cabbage Salad 301 Cabinet Pudding with Jelly, Hot 556 Cake, Birthday, with Candles 421 Cake, Birthday, for Twenty-fifth Anniversary 429 Cake Covered with Almond Icing 428 av PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING] TACmO PAGE Cake Decorated with Fruit and Lady Fingers 421 Cake, Hollow Sponge with Whipped Cream 421 Cake Making, Utensils for 460 Cake, Marshmallow Frosting and Red Candies .... 468 Cake, Poinsettia 420 Cake, Sponge with Potato Flour 461 Cake, with Holly Leaves Cut from Citron and Red Candies 484 Cake, with Nuts on Frosting 485 Cake Tins 460 Cakes, Mocha 420 Cakes, Small Chocolate, Marshmallow Frosting .... 468 Casserole, French i73 Celery with Cheese au Gratin 357 Celery and Orange Salad 301 Charlotte Moulds and Double Moulding 492 Charlotte Russe, Individual Strawberry 549 Charlotte Russe with Salpicon of Fruit 549 Chaudfroid of Mutton Chops 268 Chaudfroid of Tongue with Aspic Jelly 268 Cheese Balls 356 Cheese Cakes with Cherries 356 Cheese Croquettes with Paper Aigrettes 357 Cheese Service, Suggestions for 356 Cheese Straws and Rings 356 Cherries with Crusts 613 Chicken Aspic, Timbales of Ham in 269 Chicken Cutlets, Cress Salad and Mayonnaise . ... . 269 Chicken Cutlets, Parker House Style 236 Chicken Dressed for Broiling 172 Chicken Forcemeat with Quenelles, Shells of 205 Chicken Glace with Cress Salad, Cream of 269 Chicken, Pressed 236 Chicken Salad in Rolls 293 Chicken Soup with Breadsticks 652 Chicken, Timbales 205 Chops, Rib, Frenched, Loin 141 Chops with Spinach, Broiled Mutton 149 Chopper, Enterprise 204 Cleaver and Small Saw for Household Use 108 Cocoa Frappe, Whipped Cream 629 Coflfee Rolls from. Brioche 461 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xv FACUtC MOB Com Custard with Broiled Tomatoes . . . . . . .277 Coup6, Thais 621 Cranberry Pie 525 Cream Beaten Solid with Egg Beater 44 Cream, Ice, in Muskmelon 628 Cream, Whip Chum with Frothed 44 Cress and Egg Salad 293 Croquettes, Egg or Easter 53 Croquettes, Shaping 13 Crown of Lamb, Roast 141 Cucumber Salad, Muiute Pearl Onions .... 341 Custards Renversee, Individual ... 533 Desserts, Materials for ... . ...... 492 Devil's Food Cake .... 484 Double Boiler 13 Doughnuts, Yeast .... 484 Dunlap Beater, for Whipping Cream 45 Easter Pudding 532 Eggs, Stuffed, for Picnics 53 Eggs, Poached, withSpinach 53 Egg, Poached, with Anchovy Paste 52 Egg, Shirred, in Cocotte 52 Egg, Shirred, in China Case 52 Eggs Shirred with Mashed Potato 52 Egg, Souffled 652 Egg Salad Sandwiches 292 Egg and Tomato Jelly Salad 276 Eggs, Truffled, a h, Muscovite 333 Eggs, Utensils for Beating 44 Endive, French 300 Endive Salad 301 Fillet of Flounder Served 'm Silver Casserole 68 Fillets of Flounder with Green Peas 85 Finger Biscuit with Pistachio Nuts 421 Fish a la Cr&ne in Paper Cases 100 Fish Planked with Onions, String Beans and Asparagus . loi Fondant Making 653 Fowl, Steamed, on Mound of Rice with Mushrooms . . . 173 Fruit Cup 620 Gateau St. Emilion, Mocha Frosting 468 Gnocchi a la Romaine 3S7 xvx PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING rACIRC PAGE Haddock, Stuffed and Baked loo Halibut, Baked, Garnish of Oyster Croquettes .... 68 Halibut, Boiled, with Potato Balls 69 Halibut Steaks Baked with Oysters 100 Halibut, Turbans of, with Potato Balls 68 Ham Baked with Cider. Cold Boiled, Sliced 165 Ham Croutons 164 Hors d'CEuvres, Materials for 332 Lace Papers for Sweet Dishes 492 Lemon Fanchonettes 493 Lemon Queens 460 Lobster Cutlets 109 Lobster Sandwiches 332 Macaroni in Cheese Shell, Creamed 277 Macaroon Souffle 557 Macedoine of Fruit and Nuts 533 Measuring Cup 13 Meringues, Mushroom 469 Meringues with Cream and Strawberries 493 Moulds for Entrees and Sweets 204 Mould, Individual Basket 612 Moulds, Melon, Brick and Bombe 612 Moulds, Strawberry 612 Muffins, English, in Different Stages of Preparation . . . 396 Muffins, Twin Mountain 405 Muffins and Waffles with Utensils 405 Mushroom Cocktail, Fresh 333 Mushrooms Cooked Under Glass 277 Omelet with Macaroni and Tomato Sauce 52 Orange Sections in Orange JeUy 533 Orange Sherbet in Orange Skins 612 Oranges, Ways to Serve 588 OtheUos 421 Oysters in Green Peppers, Creamed 332 Oyster Salad in Ice Bowl 340 Partridge Roast, Bread Sauce 148 Pastry Bag and Tubes 44 Pastry Baked on Inverted Tin 524 Pastry, Utensils for Making 524 Patty Cutter, French Fluted 524 Patties Filled with Asparagus Tips 525 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS xvii FACING FACE Peach Mousse 628 Peach and Rice Meringue 613 Peadies, P)T:amid of 597 Pears with Rice, Compote of, Stuffed 597 Pineapple Bavaroise, Pompadour Style 532 Pineapple Omelet 556 Pineapple and Strawberries in Pineapple Shell .... 589 Plum Pudding a la David Harum 557 Potatoes, Baked, in the Half Shell 237 Potato Garnishes 237 Pumpkin Pie ... 493 Puree Sieve and Pestle 204 Quick-cut Chopping Knife 204 Raspberries with Rice Croquettes 613 Rings, Bismarck 365 Saddle of Mutton, Roasted 149 Salad, Bird's Nest 293 Sahnon, Boiled, Potato Balls and Cress 85 Salmon Salad 276 Salpicon of Fniit in Grape Fruit Basket 5^9 Sardines with Spinach and Eggs 109 Sauces, Utensils for Making 13 Sausage with Apple Sauce 165 Savarin . 460 Saw, Small, and Cleaver for Household Use 108 Scallop Salad 340 Scandinavian Rosettes, Frying of 557 Shad, Planked 85 Shad, Planked, Supreme 84 Shad Roe and Cucumber Salad 340 Spatula, Perforated Spoon, etc 237 Springerlie and SpringerKe Mould 428 Strawberry Bombe Glace 620 Strawberry Cannelon Glace 629 Strawberry Charlotte Glace 612 Strawberry Shortcake 556 Strawberry Souffle, Frappe 629 Strawberry Sponge 532 Strawberry Vol-au-Vent 493 "Strawberries, Sugar and Cream" 588 Swedish Rolls ,,,,,,,. 364 xviii PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING '..''~^*v"r5-'f-»~^ ,^- FACING PAGB Swedish Tea Ring, Ready to Serve . . ," . '. . . 365 Swedish Timbale Iron 524 Sweetbreads, Baked, Touraine Style 149 Syrup Gauge in Test Tube of Syrup 628 Table, Dinner, first course FronHspiece Table, Luncheon, Centrepiece of Sweet Peas . . Frontispiece Tongue Moulded in Aspic Jelly 268 Turkey Roast Garnished with Sausage and Celery . . . 173 Turkqr Trussed for Roasting, Back of 172 Turkey Trussed for Roasting, Showing Tendons .... 172 Turnip Salad, Stuffed 341 Veal Loaf Ready for Baking 140 Vol-au-Vent Baked Over a Form 525 Watermelon in Wedge-shaped Slices 589 Wreaths, Christmas 461 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING PART I CHAPTER I Definition of Food. Object in Cooking Food. The Kitchen Range. Food Principles. " Three things are essential to life : air, water and food; and the order in whidi these are named expresses their relative importance to life."— Hoy. WiTHOHT air we suffocate at once, without water we may live from two to seven days, and without food from seven to forty days. Oftentimes the term "food" is made to include both air and water, but a true food by its oxidation in the body liberates force and produces heat; air and water are in reality simply a means to this end, but of themselves undergo no chemical alteration in digestion, liberate no force and produce no heat. Water acts as a solvent and a carrier of nutritive and waste materials, and by its evapora- tion on the surface of the body controls the heat produced by the oxidation of true food. Some knowledge of the part that both air and water play in the economy of nature is essential to a proper understanding of the subject of food, and the study of diemistry should precede and accompany the study of cookery. In short, there is scarcely any branch of learning from which the art of cookery does not demand tribute. Food is that (liquid or solid) which satisfies hunger and replaces the solid waste of the' body. — ^Hoy. Water is that which slakes thirst and replaces the fluid loss of the body. — Hoy. 2 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Food, in order to replace the waste of the body, needs contain such elements, in combination, as are found in the body substance; these complex substances are found in the material world around us. There are various ways in which changes in the natural condition of these material substances may be brought about so as to make them better adapted to satisfy himger and replace waste. The principal of these is by cooking. In cooking we apply heat and often moisture to food products in such manner that they are made more digestible (soluble and diffusible) either directly, as when starch is changed to dextrine, or tough and fibrous substances are softened and thus rendered easily divisible; or, indirectly, through the development of new and pleasing odors and flavors that excite the flow of the digestive fluids. Cooking also sterilizes food. THE KITCHEN RANGE Fire is one of the first essentials in cooking food. Fire for this purpose is usually confined in a cooking stove or range. Out- side the modem accessories of warming oven, water tank, front or coil, the common cooking range consists of a rectangular iron box divided into three compartments, viz., fire-box, ash-box and oven. The fire-box is lined with fire-brick and is separated from the receptacle below, which holds a pan for waste products, by a grate. The oven occupies the rest of the box, and with the lids or covers on the top is the principal featiure of the range. Means are provided to convey hot air entirely around the oven before it enters the flue or chimney. The fire is regulated and controlled by dampers; these admit air to the burning fuel, check the strength of the draft (of air) and control the circiflation of heat about the oven. HOW TO BUILD A FIRE The ash-pan is empty; the flue about the oven dean — the ash- pan needs be emptied each day and the flue cleaned each month — the draft below the fire-box is open, the damper that opens or closes the flue is drawn, affording free draft to the chimney, and the covers over the fire-box are lifted. Everything being in readiness, the fire may be built. First put into tie fire-box a generous layer of diavings, or wisps of paper twisted in the middle so that they may lie loosely in the box; above these put in, crosswise, short pieces of BUILDING A FIRE 3 soft wood that lights readily, and then, in the same way, pieces of hard wood that bums more slowly; above these put one or two shovelfuls of coal. Cover the top of the range, and apply a lighted match between the bars of the grate to the shavings or paper; when the wood is fairly ignited, add coal to fill the fire-box nearly even to the top of the bricks. The coal will settle down' as the kindling burns. The fire-box should not be kept more than three fourths full; much less coal even will do the work in a family of ordinary size. When the blue flame disappears, close the stove door, leav- ing the damper in the door open. Adjust the damper in flue to send the current of hot air round the oven, instead of directly up the chimney. To check the fire still further, close the damper in the door, and open check-draft above; this lets in a current of cold air above the burning coal, and thus gently diminishes the strength of the draft. To keep a steady fire, add a few pieces of coal, occasionally, as the top coals begin to glow. After coal has once become glowing red in color it begins to part with its strength. Keep in mind that air below a fire causes it to bum briskly; air above cools and deadens a fire; also the fact that most food is subjected to too much rather than too little heat. THE FIVE FOOD PRINCIPLES Now, there are in every food product certain compounds upon which its food value almost entirely depends, and there is danger that the full nutritive value of these may not be retained in the process of cooking. Then, too, we have become accustomed to combine, in cooking, materials that are widely different in chemical composition. All this tends to make the process of cookery very complex. As, for instance, in making an English cream, in which cornstarch, or flour, and eggs are used. Starchy substances are made more soluble (digestible) by long cooking at a moderate temperature, or by shorter cooking at a high temperature, while albumen is made less soluble by heat. If the eggs be add^ with the starch, one constituent of the cream will be sacrificed, and the chances are that it will be the most valuable of the two, including also the vegetable albumen of the vegetable compound. Hence, if cooking is to be conducted successfully, the composition of the product in hand must be accurately known, and the effects of the heat, at different temperatures, and of moisture, upon the various constituents must be clearly imderstood. 4 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING The several compounds that enter into the composition of our food products may be grouped under five heads, as follows: The Five Food Principles or Compounds. f Proteins or ( Albuminoids. Nitrogenous j Compounds. ' Gelatinoids. , ggj^jjug Carbohydrates. IcoUagen Fats. Mineral matter. I-Water. Relating to cookery, the distinction between albuminoids and gelatinoids is worthy of attention, in that the former are made less soluble by heat and the latter, of which gelatine and collagen are the most important, more soluble. WHERE THESE COMPOUNDS ARE FOUND Water is found in all kinds of food, but largely in fruits and vegetables; in cooking these the water, which has been lost by evaporation (as in dried beans, etc.), needs be restored. Under the head of mineral matter are grouped iron, sulphur, lime, potash, magnesia, chloride of sodiiun, etc. Some one or more of these are found in all natural products, especially in vegetables, milk and meat. When vegetables are cooked in water and the water is thrown away these, oftentimes the most valuable con- stituents present, and other soluble elements, are lost. Butter, cream, vegetable oils, and the fat of meat, visible and invisible, represent the fats. The carbohydrates are known principally as starch and sugar. Discarding the woody fibre, which envelops and forms the frame- work of vegetables and which is in reality a form of starch, starch is their most important constituent. The cereals contain from sixty to seventy per cent, of starch. It is also present in the leaves and stems of plants. In rice seventy- six pounds in one hundred are pure starch. Common sugar is a chief constituent of sugar-cane and a few other grasses; it is foimd also in the juices of some roots, as beet, and occasionally in the juices of trees; milk sugar is fotmd in the milk of cows and other mammalia and grape-sugar in ripened fruit. The nitrogenous food compounds, proteins, are the most impor- tant, because they are the only compounds that contain nitrogen. FOOD COMPOUNDS S Of these the albuminoids have precedence in point of value. White of egg, which is nearly pure albtunen, is the type of this group; to this same group belong the casein of milk, the musculin of animal flesh, the gluten of wheat and the legumin of peas, beans, and lentils. From bones, cartilage, and connective tissue, boiled in water, are set free nitrogenous compounds that form with the water a jelly-Uke mass. These are the gelatines. The chief constituent of connective tissues is collagen, which is soluble in hot water and yields gelatine. It is partly due to col- lagen that a steak puffs up while cooking, and this is the substance in the steak that is made tender by soakmg in vinegar; when meat is kept, bacterial action gives rise also to acid secretions that soften the collagen. CHAPTER II The Cooking of Starch and Albumen The nitrogenous and carbohydrate principles are the two with which in cooking we have most to do. Albumen and starch rep- resent these. An egg is almost pure albumen, while a potato is largely starch. When the conditions involved in the cooking of these two articles are well understood, a firm foundation upon which to build the future structure of cookery has been laid. THE COOKINQ OF STARCH If potatoes be pared and allowed to stand in cold water, some of the starch granules of the potato will settle to the bottom of the dish. These granules will remain to all outward appearance un- changed, even if they stand hours in the water. That is, starch is not soluble in cold water. Solubility and digestibility are prac- tically synonymous terms, for all solid food material needs to be- come soluble before it can pass through the walls of the digestive system and be assimilated. Prehistoric man was undoubtedly endowed with strong digestive powers, and was able, to some extent at least, to digest uncooked starch, but civilized man needs all the aid that cookery can devise to render the starch in his food soluble. Upon the application of heat the wrinkled exterior of the hy- drated, or water-soaked, starch granules becomes distended and bursts, and if the granules be stirred during this process their del- icate walls are broken down and a pasty mass results, which, when dry, is soluble in either cold or hot water. Such starch is readily (Hgestible. But starch to be assimilated, must not only be soluble, it must be changed by the ptyalin of the saliva and the gastric juice into sugar, which, as soon as formed, may be absorbed into the cir- culatory system. This change may be partially brought about outside of the digestive apparatus and at a saving of energy on the part of the digestive organs. Of course, any approximation to COOKING OF STARCH AND ALBUMEN 7 this result would be of gain to the individual. This change is produced outside of the human body by subjecting starch to a high degree of heat. If ordinary dry starch granules be heated to a temperature about 400° and kept there some ten minutes, they become brown in color, and, if mixed with water, they form a gummy solution, which does not change color, as does starch, when subjected to the iodine text. These granules are no longer starch, but dextrine; they are now in a condition to be easily changed into sugar and assimilated by the system. We see, at once, why baked, rather than boiled, potatoes are given to a child or an invalid. A potato boiled in water can attain a temperature no higher than the water in which it is cooked, viz., 212°. So that, though the starch be made soluble, it is not changed, as it is in potato that is baked in an oven at a temperature of nearly 400° Fahr. The same is true in the baking of bread, and this is one reason why bread should be baked in small loaves. The intense heat of the oven changes the starch upon the outside to dextrine, but fails to change tiie starch throughout the loaf, on account of the large amount of moistiure contained in it, which reduces the temperature somewhat. Then, in cooking starch, long cooking at a moderate tempera- ture, or cooking at a sufficiently high temperature to change a portion of the starch to dextrine is desirable. THE COOKING OF ALBUMEN Let us ever keep in mind that digestibility and solubility are nearly synonymous terms in cookery. The albimien of egg is soluble in cold water. In water at 134° Fahr. white fibres appear throughout, and at 160° Fahr. the albumen has coagulated through- out the egg, but is still tender and jelly-like, and, being soluble, has lost little in digestibility. Now, when the hard state of an egg that has been cooked in boiling water (212° Fahr.) and the horny and still harder state of the egg that has been fried at 300° Fahr. is considered, it must be plain that albumen in eggs loses in solubility (digestibility) as the temperature to which it is subjected is raised. Whatever is true in respect to the cooking of albumen in eggs, is equally true in respect to the cooking of albumen in meat and fish, and the corresponding substance in the gluten of grains and the casein of milk and cheese. In general, sentiment, or taste, demands at least, a slight coagulation of the albmninous juices in articles of food, but any cookery that carries this coagulation beyond the 8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING jellying stage is wasteful of product and of digestive energy. The "cookuig point" of albumen, then, does not correspond to the boiling point of water; it is below this point. In actual practice it is a temperature between 160° and 180° Fahr. This point can be approximately secured and maintained, when substances are cooked in water kept at the simmering point, 185° Fahr., or when they are cooked in a double boiler. Albumen, as stated above, is foimd ui the juices of flesh; these juices are stored up in hollow fibres bovmd together by coimective tissues. When these fibres are cut through the juices are exposed, and if the meat be put into cold water, or into water or an oven below a temperature of about 134° Fahr., the juices containing the albumen are drawn out and dissolved in the water, or evaporated in the oven. They are with- drawn from the meat, which thus becomes poorer in quality and less nutritious. But if the meat be put into boiling water or a hot oven, the al- bumen in the fibres hardens or coagulates at once and closes the pores, or mouths, through which thp juices must pass out; from five to fifteen minutes' cooking at this temperature suffices to form a thick coating over the cut surface and to keep the nutritious juices within the meat. This is the key to the proper method of cooking meat or fish. When these are to be cooked, as for soups or stews, and the nutritive juices are to be drawn out into the water, they should be set to cook in cold water. When these are to be served as boiled meats, or roasts, and the nutritious juices are to be retained, the meat should be subjected, at the outset, to a high temperature, viz., that of boiling water, a very hot oven, or to the direct rays of the fire. But when once the initial process has been accomplished, the cooking of both must be completed at such a temperature as will insure a tender, jelly-like consistency throughout; that is, the temperature of the soup kettle should be raised, while that of the boiling or roasting meat should be lowered to the simmering point of water. The cooking of albumen or starch, when each is cooked sepa- rately, is a simple matter; the difficulty arises when the two are combined in the same dish. SIMMERING AND BOILINQ WATER When water is heated the air in it expands (bubbles seen on the .bottom of the dish) rises and passes off. The heat now bq^s SIMMERING AND BOILING 9 to change the water into an invisible gas, forming bubbles which are larger than the air bubbles. As ttiey come near the surface they are cooled and burst, changing back into water. This bub- bling below the surface is called simmering. The temperature of such water is about 185° Fahr. As the water grows hotter, part of the bubbles reach the surface, and there give ofif puffs of steam. The temperature is now 212° Fahr. By increasing the heat the water may be made to boil furiously, but the temperature will not rise higher; the extra heat is all used in turning the water into steam. One of the first essentials to proper cookery is the ability to dis- tinguish between simmering and boiling water. CHAPTER III Elementary Processes of Cooking {Over Coals. Pan BroUing SautfeiBg. Frying. Boiling. (Suitable for either tender or J Stewing, tough meat.) | Braising. ROASTING AND BAKING Roasting and boiling are the most primitive ways in which heat is applied in cooking; other methods are derived from these. Of these roasting and its derivatives are the most esteemed. This is on accomit of the appetizing flavors analogous to that of caramel, which are brought out by the high temperature to which the article is subjected. In roasting, flesh is exposed to the direct rays of an open fire, but similar results can be obtained by heat reflected from the hot sides of a well-ventilated oven. As the latter method is the one in common use in this coimtry, the words roasting and baking are herein used as synonymous. As roasted and broiled meats, save poultry, are usually served at least a little imderdone, this method of cooking is admissible only for tender meats, time being a neces- sary factor when tough connective tissues are to be made soluble. First wipe the outside of the joint, or the inside of poultry, wiUi a damp doth; then set on the rack in a dripping-pan of ample size. Have the rack smaller than the pan that die drippings for basting the joint may be gotten at easily. Let the pan stand in a very hot oven (a little hotter than for bread) about fifteen minutes to sear over the outside and imprison the nutritious juices, then close the drafts, move the pan to a cooler part of the oven, and, if neces- sary to avoid burning, add a little hot water to the fat that has already dripped from the joint. To keep the meat from drying. ROASTING AND BROILING ii' spread over it every ten or fifteen minutes, the smaller the joint or article the oftener, the fat in the pan. Poultry and game, de- ficient in fat, must have this supplied in some form. A small roast may be seared over in a frying pan; if this be done, less heat is required in the oven. BROILING In broiling or grilling, as in roasting proper, the article to be cooked is exposed to the direct rays of the fire, but in broiling we are dealing with thin pieces of meat, or viands, dressed to present as much surface as possible to the heat; when properly cooked, the outside is slightly crusted over, while the inside is but delicately cooked. To secure this result the article is set about three inches from the coals, or fuel, at first, and is turned every ten seconds. The strong heat hardens the albumen in the ends of the hollow fibres and confines the juices; by frequent turning burning is avoided, and both sides are cooked evenly. After the siirface of the meat is well seared over, it should be withdrawn to a greater distance from the fire to finish the cooking. A hinged broiler, which does away with handling the article in turning, is the desir- able utensil. Before using, heat this gently, and oil well the bars with fat from the meat. In broiling, gas and electricity give fairly good results, but broiling by electricity more nearly resembles pan-broiling, to be noted later. Gas is better adapted to broiling fish than steaks and chops. When a dear bed of coals is not at hand, a broiler, in which charcoal is the fuel, may be used with almost any stove, provided the stove be connected with the chimney. In broiling by any fuel, let the dampers be turned to carry the flame, caused by the dripping fat, away from the meat up the flue. As long as the meat contains uncoagulated juice, it will have a puffy apjjear- ance and reboimd under pressiure. One experienced in broiling can judge quite accurately of the condition of the meat by appear- ance and sense of touch; others will do well to regulate the time of cooking by the dock. Birds, sweetbreads, and other delicades are often wrapped in oiled paper before broiUng. (Consult Time-table of Cooking, page 34.) PAN BROILING Rub over the surface oi a very hot cast-iron frying pan with a bit of fat; put in the meat, and turn constantly, keeping the pan^ 13 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING very hot. A cast-iron pan holds heat longer than a sheet-iron pan. Pour off melted fat that collects in the pan lest the meat be saut6d rather than broiled. SAUTEINQ It is but a step from pan-broiling to saut6ing; let the fat remain upon the chops and melt into the pan, and in this cook the chops, first on one side and then on the other, and, in reality, they are saut6d. In practice, the fat to be used needs to be made hot in the pan, and then the article to be cooked is browned in the fat, first upon one side and then on the other. After the first side is cooked and the article is turned over, to cook the other side, the first side, being exposed to the air, cools very quickly, and the condensing steam leaves a vacuum into which the fat upon the outside settles, there being no opportimity to drain it off. Fat raised to a high temperature undergoes dianges by which fatty acids are evolved, and these are not wholesome^ so this form of cooking is not to be commended. When indulged in, the article to be cooked should be dried by rolling in flour, meal or fine crumbs ; then have the fat qmte hot, to sear over the outside and keep in the juices. FRYING Frying is a method of cooking in which heat is commtmicated to the article to be cooked by immersion in quite hot fat — that is, in fat at a temperature between 345° and 400° Fahr. Two impor- tant things are to be noted in frying: the article to be cooked is to be immersed in the fat, and the fat is to be quite hot; also the prep- aration of the articles themselves should receive attention. In order that the articles to be fried may be immersed, use a deep kettle (a round, iron, Scotch bowl is needed), this must be filled with fat to nearly two thirds its height, vegetable oil, cottolene, lard, clarified drippings, or with a mixture of these, according to one's means or taste. HOT FAT Cooking fats do not boil, the bubbles rising in a kettle of hot fat and the spluttering noises are caused by water in the fat. If the temperature of spluttering fat be tested, the thermometer would register about 212° Fahr., and as long as any water remains in the &t the temperature cannot be raised above this point; but when SHAPING CROQUETTES. (See page 24.) ^J5«f ifN If^^ .M ^KBjkVm ^^ 1^^ * ''*^8 bM ?#'J aB^K W ^^4 iw j^^l j^K H H WSIkM* ^^ ' iL f^^t Hp ? p ^^■K MsKf^ fci..^' _»i^^Hpi ^»fe4 ' H v^ ' •s"5^*^^^ B^^ ^w^ '*w'«ii,liii»yiiWilw«* ai««^ mLloMk m *** mmm ni^irann ■Mi Hfi BONED AND STUFFED FOWL, LARDED. UTENSILS FOR MAKING SAUCES. (See page 200.) Pointed strainer, saucepan, driuble-boiler, cup holding half a pint, wire whisk, wooden spoon, tablespoon filled with butter. FRYING 13 the water has evaporated the fat becomes still, and in a short time a faint blue smoke, or, more properly, vapor, becomes visible. This indicates a temperature of about 380° Fahr., and is the proper temperature for frying small articles; those, for instance, that are protected by -a covering of egg and bread crumbs, especially if they have been previously cooked, as croquettes. Potatoes sliced thin, or tiny white-bait, tie one on account of being cold and containing a large quantity of moisture, the other on account of size, and both because they are to be thoroughly crisped, require fat at a higher temperature, that is, about 400° Fahr. — while doughnuts and frit- ters are cooked at a temperature of about 345°. Vegetable oils reach the proper temperature for frying before vapor is visible, and, in any case, if one fails to detect vapor, the temperature may be tested by throwing in a piece of bread. TESTS FOR HOT FAT If the fat bubbles vigorously around the crumb, throwing out large bubbles of Steam, and the bread browns while one is counting forty or fifty, the cooking point has been reached. If only small bubbles appear around the crumb and it does not brown quickly, the cooking point has not been reached. As articles that are to be cooked in fat contain water, which will be turned, in the hot fat, into steam and cause a " spluttering," it is well to make the surface of these dry before they are lowered into the fat. Sometimes flour, or flour mixed with liquid to form a batter, is used for this purpose, but egg and bread crumbs are used more frequently. When the article inclosed in a coating of egg arid crumbs is plunged into the hot fat, the albumen in the egg coagulates at once, forming a fat- proof covering about the article. There is always some moisture, even in dry cnmibs, as well as in the object itself; this keeps down the temperature inside the coating; also the coating not only keeps out the fat, but keeps in the flavor and savor in a remarkable man- ner, and the result is, if the article be but removed from the fat at the proper time, a most juicy and dehcious plat. UTENSILS FOR FRYING A deep iron bowl with a bail, known as a Scotch bowl, a wire basket that fits loosely into the bowl, a long-handled fork or spoon, to hold the basket during frying and while the cooked articles are draining, a tin pan to set the basket on, and soft paper in a second. 14 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING pan for the final draining are the utensils that render frying a simple process. When a frying-basket is not accessible, a long-handled skimmer will do fairly well. TIME OF COOKING The articles should not be crowded in the basket, or they will lower the temperature too much, nor should they touch each other.. The color when cooked should be fresh, bright yellow, or delicate brown. Fat in which chops or fillets of fish are to be cooked (these require about five minutes' cooking) should be drawn to a cooler part of the range after the first minute of cooking, lest the articles become too brown before they are thoroughly cooked. As the fat is not, or should not be, as hot when the frying is completed as at the beginning, it should be reheated until the vapor rises before a second lot is fried. Do not let the articles touch each other while draining on the paper at the mouth of the oven, else they lose their crispness; remove from the basket and also arrange on the serving- dish with the tips of the fingers. CARE OF FAT When the frying is completed and the fat has stood a few moments to cool and settle, strain through a sieve, an old one will do, over which a piece of cheesecloth has been spread, into a clean receptacle; wipe out the bowl with cloth or papers and return the fat, cover and set aside. When needed again, let stand on the back of the range and heat very slowly, then drop in some thin slices of potato; potato being very porous will absorb the impurities from the fat and thus clarify it. Particles of flour, etc., left in the fat after cooking will, when the fat is reheated, turn to charcoal, or become carbonized and cause the fat to become dark in color; for this reason, or because the fat has been overheated and undergone chemical changes, fat that has been used only a few times often becomes rnifit for frying, as it will not brown the food properly. When this is the case, set it aside for soap-making; with proper care, however, fat may be used for fmng many times. Olive ofl does not bum as readily as animal fats, and for this reason it may be used more repeatedly than lard or drippings. But in careless hands any fat is liable to become overheated and burned. The same kettle of fat may be used for frying aH articles if fish or anything that imparts flavor be carefully protected CARE OF FAT 15 ■with egg and bread crumbs; but, in practice, where much frying is done it-is more economical to keep two bowls, one for fritters and flour mixtures, the other for fish and meat preparations, renewing the fat in the latter from the former and adding fresh fat to the first kettle as it is needed. The fat from mutton, turkeys, and smoked meats is not good for the fat "bath " ; bacon fat is used for saut6ing. When properly conducted, frying in deep fat has been found by careful experiments to be more economical than sauteing; it is also more wholesome, as articles thus cooked properly and drained absorb veiy little fat. BOILING ' Boiling as applied to cooking is the application of heat to food products through the mediiun of boiling, or simmering water. At sea-level water boils at 212°, and simmers at 185° Fahr. Rapid- boiling water, unless the steam be confined, attains no higher temperature and so cooks food no more quickly than water boiling less rapidly. When rapid-boiling water is advisable, as in boiling macaroni, rice, or peas, the object is not to cook more quickly, but to separate the contents by violence of motion and keep them from clinging to the receptacle in which they are cooked. The boiling point of stock and mjlk is slightly higher than that of water. Milk boils at 214° Fahr.; as this temperature hardens the casein, thus making it less digestible, milk should not be allowed to reach the boiling point; it should be cooked over hot water. When bead-like bubbles appear on the edge of milk next to the dish the milk is scalded. Scalded milk reaches a temperature of 196°. As we wish to'retain all the juices in boiled meat, we plunge it, first of all, into boiling water, and after searing over the outside reduce the temperature to the simmering point. Water does not sinmier when it is perfectly still, the surface of the liquid should stir gently. When bubbles are formed that break upon the surface, the water boils. While rapid boiling softens the connecting tissues between the little bundles of fibres and causes meat to appear tender, the fibre itself is made soluble only by long slow coolung; also the flavors of meats (and vegetables as weU) are volatile, and much of these is carried off in the steam from rapidly boiling water. Thus, it would seem that, save for the hardening of the albumen, reason suffices for cooking meat, after the juices are imprisoned, at the simmering point. Closed vessels aid in re- taining flavor. i6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING STEWING Stewing is done by gentle simmering in a small quantity of liquid ; by this means the juices and gelatinous substances in the products are partially softened and dissolved in the liquid; the savor and juices of the contents are divided between the article thus cooked and the liquid. Chef Meyer notices three varieties of stews: the brown stew, known as the ragout, or haricot; the white stew, as blanquette, or fricassee, and miscellaneous, or mixed stews, as the Irish stews and Hungarian goulash. The color of the brown stew is secured by browning, or sauteing, the meat before the water is added. The meat for a white stew is put over a fire with cold water to cover, and the cooking proceeds very slowly until the boil- ing point is reached; when this has been well established, the cooking is completed at the simmering point. When the meat is tender, the. vegetables used for flavoring are removed, and the sauce is thickened with a roux, or with flour mixed smoothly with water to pour. Oftentimes stews are thickened by the addition of barley, rice, oatmeal, and potatoes, and a garnish of vegetables, as small boiled onions, green peas, potato balls, or slices, or mush- rooms are added. A close-covered saucepan, or a firq)roof casserole, are the best utensils for making ste^s. The cooking may be done in the oven, or on the top of the range. BRAISING ' Braising is a more elaborate process of stewing. This form of cooking is suited to small pieces of meat; it provides a dish of rather more pretension than a stew, and yet one that, while it may supply the place of a roast, would not be considered quite as elegant. Pans are made for braising, with lid sunk so as to hold hot coals, or burning charcoal, and thus providbg heat above and below. Such pans are expensive; an ordinary pan, or plain eattheo casser- ole, with a cover answers every purpose. The article to be braised should not be very mudi smaller than the dish itself; a two-inch space on all sides of the article is ample. Melt in the dish an ounce of butter, or drippings, and then put in a layer of mixed vegetables, carrot, onion, celery, turnip, etc., cleaned and cut into small cubes; add also a piece of bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, and a sprig of thjrme, if at hand. On this bed lay the articles to be braised, trimmed and fastened in compact shape, also larded, if desired. Put the cover over the meat and let cook. STEWING AND BRAISING 17 shaking occasionally for about fifteen minutes; then add water, or stock, to touch the bottom of the meat. Spread a layer of vegetables over the top of the meat and cut a piece of white paper a little larger than the top of the pan; brush this over with oil, butter, or dripping, and lay closely down over the meat and vege- tables, so as to keep in all the steam. Put the cover in place and let simmer very gently until done; then remove the cover and paper, and brown the top of the meat in a hot oven. The time of cooking varies with the kind and quality of the meat. POELINQ Poeling is a kind of casserole cookery, but no liquid other than hot fat for basting is used. Lest the meat fry in the fat it must be raised by means of a rack or several skewers. Sliced vegetables are set in the bottom of the dish and sprinkled over the article to be cooked. Boned and rolled meats, poultry and birds are cooked in this manner. The earthen casserole is kept closely covered save when basting with fat, three or four times an hour, is in order. POACHINQ The term "poaching " is applied to the cooking of various articles by means of a liqmd that is always kept just below the boiling point. The cooking is carried out by quite diverse procedures, but no matter what the particular differences in manipulation may be, this one thing of cooking below the boiling point always remains the same. An article that is cooked by poaching is cooked deli- cately, and the Uquid surrounding it is always kept just on the point of boiUng, but never boils. Eggs and quenelles are poached by immersion in salted water. Mousselines, timbales and similar preparations are poached in molds surrounded with water; fillets of chicken and fish are poached in a few spoonfuls of concentrated broth, and whole birds are poached in just enough broth to com- pletely cover them. CHAPTER IV Processes and Terms Used in Cooking MEASURING In the careful cook's outfit scales are a necessity, but, as this item in so many households is considered non-essential, measures by cups and spoonfuls are as a rule indicated in the recipes. The cup referred to is invariably the "cooking-school" measuring cup upon the side of whic.h divisions in thirds and fourths are indicated. The cup is of proper size when it holds exactly half a pint, two gills of liquid, or half a pound of granulated sugar, or butter. (See also Table of Weights and Measures, page 38.) A tablespoon holding half an ounce of sugar or butter, level measure, and a tea- spoon holding sixty drops of water are of proper size for the re- spective measurements. In all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon and a level cup is meant. A tablespoonful, or a teaspoonful, of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. Half a tablespoonful, or teaspoonful, is obtained by dividing a spoonful lengthwise of the spoon; divide the half -spoonful cross- wise, for quarters. A cup of liquid cannot be safely carried, as it is all the cup will hold; the same is true of a spoonful of liquid. WAYS OF COMBINING INGREDIENTS Stirring is done by moving a spoon or knife round and round, in ever widening circles, until the ingredients are thoroughly blendedi Beating is done by cutting down with a spoon (or other utensil) from the top to the bottom of a mixture and bringing the spoon up to the surface, then passing over and down again and thus turn- ing the mixture over and over. The object is to combine air with the mixture and make it light. 18 COOKING pVER HOT WATER 19 CUTTING AND FOLDING This term is usually applied to the process by which the whites of eggs, or cream, beaten stiff, may be incorporated into another mixture without the destruction and loss of air bubbles that have already been formed. Put the mixture, or ingredients to be combined, into a dish. With spoon or knife cut down to the bot- tom of the dish, turn, bring to the top and fold over the mixture thus brought to the surface. Repeat the process until the in- gredients are completely blended. WHAT IS MEANT BY "TOSSING" "COOKING OVER HOT WATER," ETC. To "toss" is to move small articles about in the frying pan, in which there is melted butter, or seasonings, that the articles may be uniformly covered with tie butter, or seasonings. To secure this, shake the pan as in popping corn, or rapidly turn the articles over and over with a spoon or fork. COOKING OVER HOT WATER, OR DRY STEAMING The vessel in which food is thus cooked does not come in direct contact with the source of heat; boiling water intervenes. The double-boiler is the proper utensil. To "poach" is "to cook, as eggs, by breaking them into a vessel of boiling water." SERVING AU GRATIN To serve au gratin is to serve a dish covered with cracker crumbs, buttered and browned in the oven. To prepare, with a silver fork mix one cup of cracker cnunbs with one fourth, or one third a cup of melted butter; spread over the hot preparation, usually some cooked article mixed with a sauce — and set in a hot oven long enough to brown the crumbs. SERVING 'A LA JARDINlfeRE To serve h. la jardiniere is to serve with a mixture of several cooked vegetables usually cut small. A SALPICON A salpicon is a mixture of fruits in a flavored syrup, or of cooked fish, game, or meatSj of one or more kinds, cut in cubes and mixed 20 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING with bits of truffles, or mushrooms, in a rich creamy sauce. The latter may be served in patties, Swedish timbale cases, in tiny cas- seroles, or from a vol-au-vent. Or it may be used as the filling or centre of timbales, or inside a rice, or potato, border. A fruit salpicon is served in individual glasses, in a pineapple, or musk- melon shell, or in the peel of oranges, or grape-fruit. LARDING Cut the rind from a piece of fat salt pork two inches wide and four inches long; cut slices one fourth an inch thick the same way as the rind down to the little bunch of fibres that separate the upper firm layer of pork from the softer layer below; cut each slice, cross- wise, into match-like strips one fourth an inch thick (lardoons). As soon as the lardoons are cut, put them where they will keep cool until ready to use. Insert one end of the lardoon into the larding-needle and use this like any needle, taking stitches about three eighths an inch deep and three fourths an inch wide. When the needle and pork have been drawn through the flesh, cut ofiE the pork, leaving a part in the meat with ends of equal length outside. In the same way take up as many stitches as are desired, about three fourths an inch apart, inserting fresh lardoons into the needle as often as they are needed. DAUBING The flavor of a thick, dry piece of lean meat is often improved by making cuts through it from one side to the other and pressing into these cuts thick lardoons of fat salt pork (half an inch thick). This process is called daubing, and is used for beef a la mode, etc. BONING Boning is the removing of all bones from fish, fowl, or joint, leaving the flesh entire. Fish, fowl, a leg of mutton, a fore-quarter, or shoulder of mutton, lamb, or veal, and chops, are the pieces usually boned. Often fish are much rnore appetizing and sightly when boned. It is also an economical method of serving fish, as the bones, with such particles of flesh as adhere to them, seasoned with vegetables, produce good stock for basting, or for a sauce. In boning a bird or fowl, the flesh is removed from the frame, or bones in one piece. In boning birds and poultry, one of two objects COOKED FINE HERBS 21 is in view: either to retain the natural shape of the bird or to pre- pare the flesh for inclosing stuffing, to form a galantine. ROUX Roux (French for red) is a cooked preparation of butter and flour used for thickening gravy, sauces, and soups. The proportions of butter and flour are one ounce of butter and half an ounce of flour to one cup of liquid for sauces, and one pint of liquid for soups; by measure two level tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour to one cup, or one pint of liquid. While these are the or- dinary proportions, more flour, even a full ounce, for an ounce of butter is occasionally required, as when making sauce for cro- quettes and similar mixtures. And also when making a brown roux,. or roux proper, as the flour in browning loses some of its thickening qualities. To prepare, melt the butter; when bubbling add the flour, mix well and leave on a slow fire, stirring occasionally until it becomes of a reddish brown, or mahogany color. This is roux, but in cookery we speak of it as brown roux. When the flour has cooked in the bubbling butter just long enough to burst the starch cells, rather less than five minutes, and without taking color, the preparation is called blonde roux. When a more highly flavored roux is desired, cook a "faggot" with a slice of onion in the butter before adding the flour. Cool the roux before adding a hot liquid; a cold liquid may be added at once. Roux may be prepared and set aside for future use. This may be of advantage in Uie case of brown roux, but certainly it is not called for in the case of the blond, as it is but five minutes' work to prepare the latter. COOKED FINE HERBS. USED FOR PAUPIETTES, CHOPS, SAUCES, ETC. 1 oz. of butter. (Stalks and other trimmings, or whole i dove of garlic, fine chopped. mushrooms) 2 oz. of shallot, fine chopped. i cup, each, of glaze and white or 4 oz. of parsley, fine chopped. brown sauce. 4 oz. of mushrooms. Melt the butter, add the garlic and shaUot, and cook without coloring two or three minutes; add the mushrooms, chopped fine, and stir and cook imtil the moisture has evaporated, then add the parsley, and, if not to be used at once, also one fourth cup, each, 22 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING of glaze and white or brown sauce, and simmer until quite con- sistent. HERB BOUQUET For flavoring soups and sauces what is known as an herb bouquet is used. This conunonly consists of a bay leaf, a sprig of thjrme, or sweet marjoram, and two or three cloves wrapped and tied within two or t^ee sprigs of parsley. Yellow rind of lemon may be added. When seeds, as celery and peppercorns, are used, the whole may be tied in a bit of cheesecloth. The object is to secure easy removal from the hot liquid. HOW TO ADD YOLKS OF EGGS TO SOUPS OR SAUCES In adding yolks of eggs to soups and sauces to secure richness or thickening (liaison), remoye the sauce or soup from the fire, then mix a spoonful or two of the liquid with the yolks, previously beaten and, when well-blehded, add a httle more of the liquid, mix and ppiu- into the saucepan. If the egg does not look cooked, return to the fire a moment and stir without letting boil. SEASONING AND FLAVORING The use of onions in culinary preparations has ever been a much- mooted question. ' Though the more refined members of society have always placed a sweeping interdict upon them, their use to the extent, at least, that is indicated by the French soupcon, or suspicion, is of decided advantage. And really, there is no question that, even in larger measure, the flavor of onions is of genuine value in rendering fish, veal, and the cheaper cuts of beef savory. It is the savor of all savors beloved of the artisan^ and oft and again renders some homely dish acceptable day after day. Parsley, whenever it is possible, should be used in connection with onion. It is thought to counteract a tendency in some to the flat- ulency caused by the onion. It also sweetens the breath. Dried mushrooms, when the fresh are not to be had, mushroom or to- mato catsup, the outer stalks and green leaves of celery, or celery seeds, sweet peppers, green or red, a bit of bay leaf, aromatic herbs, or a drop or two of tabasco sauce used judiciously, now and then, will lend savor or piquancy to many an otherwise plain dish. It is often the little pleasing surprise in flavor that starts the flow of the digestive fluids and puts the tired workman (whether of hand EGGING AND CRUMBING 23 or brain) in genial mood. The simple art of judicious flavoring is one that every woman with a family to feed would do well to cultivate. The German housewife adds a sprig of mint to green peas while they are cooking, also mace or nutmeg to many a meat and vege- table dish. A little mace in the custard used as a garnish for soups, and in such delicately flavored dishes as chicken, or sweetbread timbales, often changes flat and insipid productions into most acceptable plats. Delicate meats and fish for salads are much improved by being allowed to stand some time before serving in a French dressing — a mixture of oil and acid. (See Salads, page 320.) Tough, dry, or tasteless meat can be improved by letting stand some time before cooking in a marinade. Mustard should be used with care. It bites too soon. HOW TO EXTRACT ONION JUICE Cut a thin slice from one end of the onion, then press against a lemon grater, giving a slight rotary motion; turn the grater, and the juice will flow from one corner. Or, scifape the cut side with a sharp knife to secure fine pulp. TO EQQ-AND-BREAD-CRUMB FOR FRYING THE CRUMBS Separate the crust of bread from the crumb and dry each sepa^ fately in the warming-oven, without letting the crumb take color; pass through a meat-chopper and a sieve. Use the brown crumb for the first coating, and the white for the outside. If a very deli- cate color be desired, use pieces of undried bread, and pass through a colander; the larger quantity of moisture in the fresh crumb causes the article thus covered to assume a more delicate hue. Season the crumbs before using with salt and pepper. Sifted criraibs of fresh bread are best. Cracker crumbs are not often desirable, as they give a pasty crust. Lady-finger crumbs or powdered macaroons are often used for crumbing sweet dishes. THE EGG The whole egg is preferable; but the white or yolk alone may be used. The white, being almost pure albumen, gives a tough crust, and the yolk alone,[wMch contains considerable fat, a more tender 24 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING crust. When for convenience the white is used alone, add to each portion of two eggs a tablespoonful, each, of oil and water, beat together thoroughly, but not to a foam, and pass through a sieve. Wten whole eggs, or yolks alone, are used, omit the oil, adding water equal to the volume of egg. More water may be added. THE ARTICLE Have the seasoned crumbs upon the meat-board; roll the articles to be coated in the crmnbs, then hold them, one at a time, on a broad-bladed knife over the egg, and with a very soft brush dipped into the egg brush every part of the object. Or, if preferred, for croquette mixtures use a spoon and pour the egg over the article, moistening every part; then drop from the knfie into the crtmibs and roll on the board until completely and evenly covered with cnunbs; let stand a little before frying. Fine-chopped parsley may be added to the crumbs, in case of savory artides. TO BREAD-CRUMB A LA MILANAISE Dip the article to be breaded in melted butter, then in equal parts of grated Parmesan cheese and white cnunbs; finish with egg and crumbs. TO BREAD-CRUMB A LA DIABLE Season with salt, pepper, and mustard, or spread with "made" mustard; dip in crumbs, then in egg and again in crumbs. Used for mutton chops, either for broilmg or frying, also for cooked chicken, or turkey legs, to be reheated by broiling and frying. TO BREAD FOR BROILING Brush or coat the article with oil or melted butter, then roll in white cnunbs. TO BREAD FISH WITH FLOUR FOR FRYING Dip the fish in milk, then in flour, seasoned with salt and pepper. TO SHAPE CROQUETTE MIXTURE When the croquette mixture is cold and firm, roll with the hands into balls, then gently roll each ball in turn in crumbs, care- MARINADE FOR VENISON, ETC. 25 fuuy covering each part with crumbs and giving to the ball such shape as is desired. The easiest shape for a beginner to attempt is that of a cylinder. To secure this shape, lightly roll the ball back and forth upon the crumbs, pressing upon it gently to lengthen, then take up lightly and drop the end gently on the board, turn and drop the other end upon tie board, repeating the process. Let stand to stiffen a Uttle, then cover with the egg. Roll at once in the crumbs a second time, rolling and shaping as before, to insure perfection in shape and smoothness of crust. Let stand an hour before frying. Croquette mixtures made of fish or lobster are usually given a half-heart or cutlet shape. To secure this flatten the ball with a broad-bladed knife, or the hand, making one end pointed and the other roimd; round out one side and curve the other by pressing with the fingers. Insert a short piece of maca- roni into the pointed end of a fish chop before cooking. After cooking cover with a paper frill; or, omit the macaroni, and insert sprig of parsley after tiie chop is fried. The small claws of the lobster are inserted in lobster chops, or cutlets, after frying. A tiny, paper aigrette is used for croquettes made cork-shaped. FAT FOR FRYING, ETC. Cut cooked or uncooked fat in small pieces; if it be uncooked let stand twenty-four hours in cold water, changing the water once in the period; this will reduce the flavor. When ready to cook drain and add a cup of milk for each two poxmds of fat, and cook very slowly, until the fat is clear, the pieces are light brown in color, and there is no sound of cooking. With a wooden spoon loosen, but do not stir, the fat from the bottom of the kettle; strain through a cloth, then press the remaining fat from the pieces for use as fat of second quality. COOKED MARINADE FOR VENISON, MUTTON, ETC. I quart of water. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. I pint of vinegar. 6 sprigs of parsley. 23 tablespoonfuls of salt. i tablespoonful of mixed herbs. I tablespoonful of peppercorns. 2 onions, sliced. A blade of mace. i carrot sliced. Put all the ingredients over ^e fire; let boil up once, then simmer gently half an hour. Use at once, or strain, and store in fruit jars for future use. In practice let the meat stand in the marinade 26 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING „ -v.-- one to four days, according to the season of the year, turning the same in the liquid occasionally. MARINADE FOR CHOPS, FILLETS OF FISH, ETC. Brush over the articles with olive oil, sprinkle with lemon juice, then pile in twos, with a sliced onion and strips of green or red pepper between. Let stand over night, or several hours. If the meat be tough, use the oil more generously, and substitute vinegar for lemon juice. Cooked meats, or fish to be served in a sauce, are often much improved, if let stand an hour or two in a mixture of equal parts of oil, lemon juice, half a teaspoonfxil of salt to a pint of material, a dash of paprika, and a little onion juice, if the latter be agreeable. Drain before adding to the sauce. CROUTONS FOR SOUPS Cut the bread in slices from one fourth to three eighths an inch thick; remove the crusts, and cut in small cubes, or in finger- lengths; then saute in hot butter, or spread with butter and brown in the oven, turning frequently that all sides may be evenly browned. CROUTONS FOR A GARNISH Croutons may be used as a garnish for scalloped oysters or spinach, for meat oi" fish in a sauce; triangvdar pieces, acute angled, or those with a broad base, are the choice; after shaping prepare as other croutons. BREAD CROUSTADES Bread croustades are croutons fashioned to hold a puree of some kind, or some cooked article, cut small and mixed with a sauce. These may be stamped in rounds, diamonds, or other shapes, with cutters made for the purpose. The slice of bread varies in thick- ness, according to the service. After the bread is in the required shape, with a pointed knife cut a line around the top of the slice about half an inch from the edge and carefully remove the crumb to form a receptacle. The walls should be half an inch thick. Brown as croutons for soup, or by frying in deep fat. PASTRY CROUSTADES Roll trimmings from puff paste into a sheet one fourth an inch thick; then with a cutter dipped in hot water stamp out pieces of CROUSTADES 27 paste; heart, diamond, and round shapes are generally used. With a small round cutter dipped in hot water, score the centre quite deeply, but do not cut through the paste. Bake as any pufE paste; then remove the centres and fill. Small patty cases are often used for this purpose. POTATO CROUSTADES Use plain mashed potato, or duchess potato mixture. (See page 264.) Spread the potato evenly to the depth of half an inch on a buttered baking-sheet; brush over with yolk of egg, beaten and diluted with a little milk. When cold cut the potato diagonally in two directions, to make diamond-shaped pieces about three inches in length, or cut out with a cutter. Score these diagonally, to present small diamond shapes, then reheat by browning in a hot oven. To serve, remove a bit from the centre of each and place in and above this a teaspoonful of peas, asparagus, or fine-chopped meat, in a thick sauce. This provides a suitable; way of serving potato and peas in a fish course. RICE CROUSTADES I cup of rice. § a teaspoonful of salt. I a cup of tomato purfe. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. 3 cups of chicken broth. Egg and bread crumbs. Parboil and rinse the rice. Return to the saucepan with the puree, broth, salt and butter, and when boiling cook over hot water, until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed. Then pack into one large mould, into small dariole moulds, or mufiSn rings placed on a baking-sheet, all well buttered. Set aside to cool. When cold, egg-and-bread-crumb; then with a sharp- pointed knife or small cutter make an incision around each croustade, leaving a rim about one fourth an inch wide. Fry to a golden brown in deep fat; then remove the piece in the centre of the tops, scoop out the centres and fill with cooked material, cut in cubes and heated in a sauce. Make incision before egging and crumbing. BLANCHED RICE To a cup of rice add a quart of cold water, let boil five minutes after the boiling point is reached, then wash and drain on a sieve. 28 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BLANCHING FRESH VEGETABLES Many vegetables are improved in appearance and made more delicate in flavor if they be blanched (parboiled and drained) be- fore the cooking proper is begun. Set the vegetables, properly cleaned, to cook in plenty of boiling water; let cook from five to fifteen or more minutes, according to size, etc., drain and rinse with cold water. Then cook to finish as desired. BEATING EGGS Without taking into consideration the fact that eggs enrich mixtures, they are added either to thicken a mixture, or to thicken and render a mixture light. Lightness is not always desirable. When eggs are added simply to thicken a mixture they should be beaten only until the wlutes and yolks are well mixed, i. e., without separating the whites from the yolks and until a spoonful of the mixture can be taken up and held in the spoon. A spoon, fork, whisk, or Dover egg-beater may be used. When the eggs are added to insure lightness the yolks and whites should be beaten separately — the yolks until thick and lemon-colored, and the whites until dry. Various textiures may be given to the whites of eggs in beating, by a judicious selection of the utensil used. If a dose texture be desirad, choose the Dover egg-beater; a looser texture is insured by the confectioner's whisk, and a still looser texture by the flat- beater. The reason for this Hes in the fact that the whisk and flat- beater carry into the mixture more air, half the utensil at each motion being first in the air and then in the egg, while the Dover beater is immersed in the egg until the egg is beaten. In using the Dover egg-beater, let it rest lightly in the bowl, beating slowly at first, then increasing in rapidity. To beat well eggs should be cold and fresh; a few grains of salt may be added to the whites to hasten the process. BEATING CREAM Cream from milk that has stood twenty-four hours is known as double cream. This cream, when chiUed, may be beaten stiff with the Dover egg-beater in a very few seconds; if beaten a second too long it turns to butter. This gives a firm, fine-grained cream, and is used whenever a rich, stiff cream is required, as an addition BEATING EGGS AND CREAM 29 to a salad dressing, for the filling of cream cakes and eclairs, for the filling of a bomb glace (when no gelatine mixture is to be added), or to force through a pastry-bag and tube for a garnish. When it is used to give lightness, as in Bavarian cream, etc., it should be folded, not stirred, into the other ingredients. With a Dunlap silver blade cream whip, cream may be quickly whipped and without spattering. Thin cream may be thickened with viscogen. (See page 32.) THE PASTRY-BAQ AND TUBES In filling moulds evenly and disposing soft materials, as chou paste, lady-finger mixture, purees, mayonnaise dressing and whipped cream, in small shapely portions, the best results can be obtained by the use of the pastry-bag, and tubes. Bags of duck or rubber cloth are pm:chasable, but they can be easily made at home and at less than one fourth the expense of boughten goods. Tubes of different shapes and sizes can be bought singly or in sets. A threaded ring, which fits into the smaller end of the bag, and to which the several tubes can be attached, accompanies the sets. Single tubes are not provided with thread or groove. The bag is made to fit the tubes. THE BAG Fold a square of ticking, duck, or rubber cloth, to form a"'triangle; stitch and fell one of the open sides; cut off the small end of the bag thus formed, to make an opening, into which the shank, or tube, inserted at the larger end may be fitted closely; hem this end, also the top of the bag. USE OF BAG AND TUBE Fix the tube in place; roll outward the upper part of the bag so as to put the mixture just above the tube without smearing the sides of file bag. Fill the bag about one third full. With the right hand carefully twist the bag above the mixture, guide the tube with the left hand, and force out the mixture by continuing the twisting, at the same time using pressure, with the right hand. To form a star, hold the bag in vertical position and press out a 30 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING sufficient quantity of the mixture. Separate the tube from the material by pressing the tube downward slightly and raising it quickly. For other designs hold the bag at otiier angles, between the vertical and a horizontal position. CARAMEL, FOR FLAVORING CUSTARDS, ETC. Stir the quantity of sugar needed in a small saucepan over the fire until the sugar melts. Stir constantly and pour as soon as melted into the liquid to be flavored. The hand must be protected while the liquids are combined, as on account of the intense heat of the caramel much steam wUl be generated. Remove the pan from the stove often, while the sugar is melting, to avoid over- heating. The caramel may also be poured on to an oiled marble slab, or a platter; when cooled a little remove, and when quite cold poimd fine in a mortar, then add to the hot liquid to be flavored. LINING A MOULD WITH CARAMEL Turn the liquid caramel into a charlotte russe, or other mould, then/using a holder, turn the mould round and round, letting the caramel run all over the inside of the mould. The mould must be handled quickly, as the caramel soon hardens. CARAMEL FOR COLORING SOUPS, ETC. Let the melted sugar cook until it is qmte dark, thea add an equal quantity of boiling water and let simmer a minute or two. Store in fruit jar or bottie. It will keep indefinitely and without sealing. BLANCHING ALMONDS, PISTACHIOS OR ENGLISH WALNUTS Cover the nuts with boiling water and let stand over the fire five or ten minutes, until the skin easily slips from the meat under the pressure of the fingers; then drain and keep covered with cold water, while the skms are being removed. Dry in the heater or open air. A small pointed knife will be needed to detach the skin from walnuts. The water about pistachio nuts needs to boil a moment or two, as the nuts do not blanch easily. ALMONDS, PREPARING LEMONS 31 CHOPPED ALMONDS Chop when partly dry, and sift through a sieve; chop again what remains on the sieve and sift as before. SHREDDED ALMONDS Dry freshly peeled almonds in a cloth and cut at once into shreds, lengthwise. ALMOND MILK, FOR CURRIES, BLANC-MANQE, ETC. Poimd in a mortar half a pound of almonds, with a few spoonfuls of cold water, until the meats are reduced to a fine paste; dilute with a pint of milk, or water, and strain through a cheesecloth, pressing out all that will pass through. POUNDING ALMONDS Mix the almonds with white of egg, or liquid, and pound in the mortar. Or mix with sugar and put through a meat-cutter three or four times. After forcing the nuts through the chopper the first time, adjust the machine to cut, or crush, as fine as possible. SHELLING AND BLANCHING CHESTNUTS With a sharp-pointed knife slit each shell across one side. Cook one minute in boiling water, drain and let dry. Add a tea- spoonful of butter for each pint of nuts, and stir and shake over the fire, or in the oven three or four minutes; then remove the shell and skin together. Keep the nuts covered with a cloth, in the meantime, as they shell more easily when hot. PREPARING LEMONS FOR USE Wipe the lemons with a damp cloth without rubbing. If only the flavor or zest is called for, pare oS the thin yellow rind, remove every trace of white, and chop very fine. If a lemon grater be used, carefuUy avoid the bitter white skin. To keep lemons, wipe carefully, wrap each, separately, in clean, dry tissue paper and let stand in a draught of air. 32 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING PREPARING ANCHOVIES Rinse the anchovies in several waters (cold) to remove the salt, then let stand in cold water ten minutes or longer. Anchovies of inferior quality need to remain several hours in water. Milk may be used instead of water. With the fingers remove the fins from the back, and, holding the fish by the tail, pull into halves, discarding the backbone and rear fin. Then wipe or drain care- fully, and use according to recipes. FRINQINQ CELERY FOR A QARNISH Cut the stalks into pieces two inches long. Beginning on the round side and at one end, cut down half an inch, making as many thin slices as possible. Turn the stallc, and cut these slices, in the opposite direction, as thin as possible. Cut the opposite end in the same way. Set the pieces aside in very cold, acidulated water, and, in a short time, many of the shreds will curl over and meet in the centre of the stalk. TO GLAZE BREAD AND ROLLS J an oz. of cornstarch. i pint of boiling water. Mix the cornstarch with cold water and when smooth pour on the boiling water. Apply with a brush, when the bread is nearly baked, then return to the oven, to finish the baking, repeating the process once or twice. VISCOQEN (To thicken thin Cream) Dissolve five ounces (| cup and 2 tablespoonfuls) of sugar in ten ounces (i^ cups) of water. Add three quarters of a cup of cold water to two ounces of quick lune, and let it gradually slake; strain through a fine sieve; combine the two liquids, shake occasionally for two hours. After about three hours set aside to settle, then pour off the clear liquid. Store in small bottles with glass stoppers or half- pint fruit jars. Use one fourth of a teaspoonful of viscogen t» three fourths of a cup of chilled cream. CHAPTER V Cook's Time-Table. Tables of Proportions, Weights and Measures In preparing a meal it is quite essential to know accurately the time required for cooking the different viands, otherwise one dish may become cold, while the cook is waiting for the completion of another that is to accompany it. With the aid of an oven ther- mometer, or heat indicator, one can by actual experience soon learn almost to a certainty the length of time required to bake most articles. This is especially true in case of bread, pastry, cake, puddings, and custards, the ingredients of which may be considered as known quantities. More or less doubt exists in regard to the length of time required for the cooking of animal and vegetable substances; for with these tenderness, one of the most important things aimed at in the cooking, will depend upon variable condi- tions, as, in animal substances, age and habits of life, and in vege- tables upon age, soil, and season in which they are grown, and upon the length of time passed since they were gathered. In the tables given below, the minimum and maximum times are given in which die article is to be cooked at a suitable temperature. When articles of same weight vary in thickness, the thicker will require the longer period. The time depends not so much upon weight as upon the extent of surface presented to the heat. For instance, a long thin fish will require ten or fifteen minutes less time in baking than a short, thick middle cut of salmon of the same weight. As an aid to best results in baking, an oven thermometer, or "heat indicator," is of great value. The heat indicator shows the temperature of the oven, but to secure and keep this tem- perature, the condition of the fire-box, when coal or wood is used, must be studied with care. The matter is much more simple when gas or electricity is the fuel. When a dish is ready for the oven, though the index points to the proper temperature for the cooking of that dish, if the fire be spent — the coal showing by a white line near the edges that it has lost its vitality — the temperature will 34 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING fall rapidly, and the addition of coal will not help the matter before the article, be it cake, or some delicate confection, is utterly ruined. Then, too, if the fire be new and fierce, unless it be regulated with the nicest care, the heat is apt to become too severe. The indicator does not regulate the fire, but shows the condition of the oven as far as heat is concerned. But by Judgment and experience the exact temperature for the baking of each dish can be determined, and the regulation of the fire to maintain this temperature be secured. The figure gives a gen- eral idea of an oven thermometer, or heat indicator. For instance, when there is no fire in the range the hand points to 6. At the temperature suitable for putting bread into the oven the hand points to 12. After the first fifteen mintues the hand should move gradually backward halfway to three, where it should remain until the bread is baked. To sear over the outside of meat, or to cook wDd ducks and small birds the hand should point to about 9. After the first half-hoiur roasts like beef and mutton should cook with the index in the vicinity of 12, back of it rather than beyond it. Custards and articles poached in water below the boiling point need a temper- ature indicated at about 2. With a little experience one can bake different varieties of cake in succession in an oven whose heat is gauged to fit each case to a nicety. In this connection it may be noted that a coal fire is kept in good condition when it is so kept that it can be quickly regulated to meet the demands made upon it. Oftentimes, however, it is more economical, when a hot fire is wanted for a short time cmly, to keep the fire dormant, as it were, and use for the time being a gas or oil-range, and then transfer the article to the coal-range that has been kept at a moderate heat. But this is not always practicable. COOK'S TIME-TABLE ROASTING OR BAKING MEATS AND FISH Beef, ribs or loin, rare, per pound 8 to 10 minutes. Beef, ribs or loin, well done, per pound 12 to 16 minutei COOK'S TIME-TABLE 35 Beef, ribs, rolled, rare, per pound la to 15 minutes. Beef, ribs, rolled, well done, per pound is to 15 minutes. Beef, fillet, rare 20 to 30 minutes. Mutton, leg, rare, per pound 10 minutes. . Mutton, leg, well done, per pound 14 minutes. Mutton, saddle, rare, without flank, per pound 9 minutes. Mutton, loin, rare, per pound g minutes. Mutton, forequarter, stuSed, per pound 15 to 25 minutes. Lamb, well done, per pound 15 to 18 minutes. Veal, well done, per pound i8 to 20 minutes. Pork, well done, per pound 20 minutes. Venison, rare, per pound 10 minutes. Chicken, per pound 15 or more minutes. Turkey, 8 to 10 pounds 3 hours. Goose, 8 to 10 pounds 2 hours, or more. Duck (domestic) i hour, or more. Duck (wild) IS to 30 minutes. Grouse about 30 minutes. Small Birds 15 to 20 minutes. Pigeons (potted, or en casserole) 2 to 4 hours. Ham 4to6 houis. Fish, whole, as bluefish, salmon, etc ■; i hour, or more. Small fish and fillets 20 to 30 minutes. Baked beans with pork 6 to 8 hours BROILING Steak, I inch thick 4 to 10 minutes. Steak, i| inches thick 8 to 15 minutes. Lamb, or Mutton Chops 6 to 10 minutes. Quails 8 to 10 minutes. Quails in paper cases 10 to 12 minutes. Squabs .- ip to 12 minutes. Spring Chicken 20 minutes. Shad, bluefish, etc iS to 30 minutes. Slices of fish 12 to 15 minutes. Small Fish, trout, etc S to 12 minutes. FRYING Whitebait, croquettes, fish-balls i minute. MuflSns, fritters and doughnuts 3 to 5 minutes. Breaded Chops 5 to 8 minutes. 36 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Fillets of Fish 4 to 6 minutes. Smelts, brook trout, etc 3 to s minutes. BOILING MEAT AND FISH Fresh Beef 4 to 6 hours. Corned Beef (rib, or flank) , 4 to 7 hours. Corned Beef, fancy brisket S to 8 hours. Corned Tongue 3 to 4 hours. Leg, or Shoulder of Mutton 3i to s hours. Leg, or Shoulder of Lamb 2 to 3 hours. Turkey, per poimd 15 to 18 minutes. Fowl, 4 to s pounds 2 to 4 hours. Chicken, 3 pounds i to i| hours. Ham 4 to 6 hours. Lobster 25 to 30 minutes. Codfish and haddock, per pound 6 minutes. Halibut, whole, or thick piece, per pound 15 minutes. Bluefish, bass, etc., per pound 10 minutes. Salmon, whole, or thick cut 10 to 15 minutes. Small fish 6 to 8 minutes. Clams and oysters 3 to S minutes. Braised Meats : 3 to s hours. BOILING OF VEGETABLES, COFFEE, ETC. Asparagus 20 to 25 minutes. Beans, string, or shell it02 hours. Beets, new 45 minutes to i hour. Beets, old 4 to 6 hours. Beet Greens i hour, or longet. Brussels Sprouts 15 to 20 minutes. Cabbage 30 to 80 minutes. Carrots 1 hour, or longer. Cauliflower 20 to 30 minutes. Celery 2 hours, or longer. Corn , 10 to 20 minutes. Macaroni 20 to 60 minutes. Onions 45 minutes to 2 hours. Oyster Plant 45 to 60 minutes. Parsnips 30 to 45 minutes. Peas 20 to 60 minutes. Potatoes, white 20 to 30 minutes. Potatoes, sweet iS to 25 minutes. COOK'S TIME-TABLE 37 Rice 20 to 30 minutes. Squash 30 to 30 minutes. Spinach 15 to 20 minutes. Tomatoes, stewed 15 to 20 minutes. Turnips .30 to 45 minutes. Coffee 3 to s minutes. BAKING OF BSEAD, CAKE, CUSTARDS AND PUDDINGS Loaf Bread 40 to 60 minutes. Rolls, biscuit 10 to 30 minutes. Mtiffins, yeast about 30 minutes. Muffins, baking-powder 20 to 25 minutes. Sponge Cake, loaf 45 to 60 minutes. Plain Loaf Cake 30 to 90 minutes. Layer Cake 15 to 20 minutes. Fruit Cake 2 or 3 hours. Small Cakes iS to 25 minutes. Custards 20 minutes to i hour. Steamed Brown-Bread 3 hours. Steamed Puddings i to 3 hours. Pie Crust 3° to 45 minutes. Potatoes 30 to 4S minutes. Scalloped and au Gratin Dishes 10 to 2oniinutes. Timbales about 20 minutes. TABLE OF PROPORTIONS I measure of liquid to i measure of flour for pour batters. I ineasure of liquid to 2 measures of flour for drop batters. I measure of liquid to 3 measures of flour for dough. I to 2 or more cakes of compressed yeast softened in | cup of water to i pint of liquid. \ cup of liquid yeast to i pint of liquid. 1 level teaspoonful of soda and two slightly rounding leaspoonfuls of cream of tartar to one quart of flour. 2 teaspooiifuls of baking-powder to i cup of flour. I teaspoonful of soda to i pint of thick sour milk. I teaspoonful of soda to i cup of molasses. \ teaspoonful of salt to i quart of milk for custards. I teaspoonful of salt to 1 cup, or i teaspoonful to i quart of sauce, or soup. \ teaspoonful of salt to i pint of flour. I teaspoonful of flavoring extract for a plain cake. 38 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING I teaspoonful of flavoring extract to i quart of custard, or cream. I tablespoonful of flavoring extract to i quart of mixture to be frozen. f cup, or less of sugar to a quart of milk for custards, etc. I cup of sugar to i quart of milk or cream for cream ice. I cup of sugar for each dozen of yolks used in cream ice. 4 eggs to I quart of milk for plain cup custard. 6 to 8 eggs to I quart of milk for moulded custards. i package, or half an ounce of gelatine to scant pint of liquid. 3 cups of water, more of milk, or stock, to i cup of rice. 1 ounce (2 tablespoonfuls) of butter, | ounce (2 tablespoonfuls of flour) to i cup of liquid for sauce. I ounce (2 tablespoonfuls) of butter, ^ ounce (2 tablespoonfuls) of flour to x pint of liquid for soups. 1 cup of cooked meat, or fish cut in cubes to |, or 1 whole cup of sauce. Meat from 3I pound chicken equals about i pint, or i pound. TABLES OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 3 teaspoonfuls of liquid equal i tablespoonful. 3 tablespoonfuls of liquid " ^ gill, or J cup. 4 cup equals i gill. 2 gills equal i cup. 2 cups " I pint. 2 pints (4 cups) " 1 quart. 4 cups of liquid " 1 quart. 4cupsofflour " 1 pound, or I quart. 2 cups of butter, solid " j pound. 1 cup of butter, solid equals J pound, 4 oz. 2 cups of granulated sugar equal i pound. 2| cups of powdered sugar " i pound. I pint of milk, or water equals i pound. 1 pint of chopped meat (solid) " i pound. 10 fggs (without shells) equal 1 pound. 8 eggs, with shells " i pound. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter " j ounce. 4 tablespoonfuls of butter " 2 ounces, or } cup. 2 tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar " i ounce. 4 tablespoonfuls of flour " i ounce. 4 tablespoonfuls of coffee " i ounce I tablespoonful of liquid " J ounce! PART II CHAPTER I Beverages "Water, water everywhere, nor any drop to drink." — Ancient Mariner, Colebsidgi. "O Mirth and Innocence! O Milk and Water 1 Ye Jiappy mixture of more happy days!" — Byron. WATER Water is that which slakes thirst and replaces the fluid loss of the body (Hoy) ; while food is that which replaces the solid loss of the bodyj While water and food would seem to be two separate and distinct compounds, water, in reality, is one of the largest (in amount) components in food and is rightfully classed as one of the Five Food Principles. The primal office of water is the slaking of thirst: thirst is the outward and visible sign that water is needed to carry on the functions of the body, to eliminate waste and to carry nutritive material where it is needed. By its evaporation on lie surface water also regulates the temperattire of the body. It is often said that those who drink water freely take on flesh. Water is not a nutrient, though it enters into the composition of every bodily tissue, but when water is imbibed freely and at the proper time the functions of elimination and nutrition are gen- eraUy well carried out, and a condition of health is noted. Those who drink little water are liable to the formation of waste products faster than they are removed. Four pints of water are required daily by the average adult, less than one third of which is supplied in food. Many an individual who rises in a languid state in the morning need seek for no other relief than in a glass of water on retiring at night. This washes the waste products into the proper eliminating channels and insures a fresh and vigorous condition of 39 40 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING body in the morning. The remedial effects of hot water are well known. Water, either hot or cold, preferably hot, is also of advan- tage, if it be taken upon rising, or at least an hour before eating; thus taken it washes out the stomach, and prepares it to receive food. Taken just at the meal time, before the lining of the stom- ach has time to absorb it, digestion is impeded by the weakening of the digestive fluids. PURE DRINKING WATER ESSENTIAL Water is a solvent as well as a carrier, and in this fact much danger lies. In its passage over or through the earth water may take up organic and inorganic matter that is detrimental to health, as when it comes in contact with sewage, which is liable to contain germs of disease. Often then this question of drinking-water is the hinge on which the whole subject of health turns. Whatever a family, or an institution, has become habituated to is taken for granted to be all right; but in the country, where sewers are un- known, the nearness of a cesspool or the stable yard is a constant menace to health. Indeed, in some soils, contiguity plays but a small part in the matter, for a well often drains a larger surface than is generally realized. A deep well, properly situated, where the rainfall, carrying or- ganic matter, must be filtered through earth and stone to reach its level, would seem to offer a water that one might drink with safety; but this is a subject that must be given more than passing attention. Who would willingly take the chances of a water- borne typhoid case, or the listless inertia of malarial poisoning, as the result of a summer's outing. City water taken from pure sources and filtered through sand-beds should be reasonably pure. When doubt as to its purity exists, boiling is the remedy, since almost all germs of disease that are likely to be found in water are killed by the application of heat at the boiling point. Filters for home use need the most exact and painstaking attention daily, or the water passing through them is made more impure. Water from the hot-water faucet, be it needless to add, is not suitable for drinking or cooking purposes. TEA "Indeed, Madam, your ladyship is veiy sparing o£ your tea: I protest the last I took^was no more than water bewitched." — Swift. TEA AND TEA MAKING 41 COMPOSITION OF AVERAGE BLACK TEA (cHURCh) In 100 parts there are: water 8.0, albuminoids 17.5, theine 3.4, tannin 17.5 chlorophyl and resin 4.5, essential oil 0.4, minor extractives 8.6, cellulose, etc. 34.0, mineral matter 6.3. A cup of tea infusion has little or no nutritive value, but it in- creases respiratory action and incites the brain to greater activity. The stimulating effects of tea upon the nervous system are due to the essential oil and theine: the tannin produces astringency. Tea was at first used medicinally, and was not indulged in as a bever- age until the close of the seventeenth century. "The first brewers of tea sat down to eat the leaves with butter and salt." The only tea-gardens in the United States are at Pinehurst, S. C. Here tea culture is successfully carried on. The tea is shipped in closely sealed gilt-colored tin boxes containing pounds, or fractions there- of. Black and green teas are made from the same plants, but each is cured by a different process. Gunpowder is the name given to the finest green tea, pekoe to the finest black, both being made from the "first pickings." In picking tea for these varieties only the tips of the short and tender leaves are taken. Flowery pekoe is made entirely from the unexpanded leaf bud, so young as to be entirely covered with down. If the first expanded leaf be included, it makes first and second "Souchong." Tea is for those who have passed the boundary line of youth, stimulants are not needed by the yoimg, and are positively harmful to them. Rightfully prepared and used, both tea a.ad coffee, on account of the sense of cornfort ajid the mildly exhilarating influence which they impart, may be considered beneficial to the race. Im- properly made and drank to excess, they are one of the chief sources of many of the minor and chronic ills of mankind. The essential oil and theine of tea are the desirable elements; the tannin which by hardening albumen interferes witJb the process of digestion, and which is also an astringent, is to be avoided. The one is avoided and the other secured by the manner in which tea is made. MAKING TEA Fresh-drawn filtered water, just at the boiling point, is the first item needful when a cup of tea is desired; the second item is a clean, dry heated teapot, preferably of chinaware. Never leave the' tea leaves and the liquid left over in the teapot for a cup of tea mid- way between meak. Never drink lk(uid that has stood longer than 42 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING five or six minutes upon tea leaves. At the first bubbling of the water rinse the teapot, already clean, and let stand a moment on the hot stove to dry; put in the tea leaves and pour over the now furiously bubbling water; put on the cover and let stand five min- utes on the hot range without boiling. If made at the table, coyer the pot with the "cosey." After standing five minutes the flavor of the tea is impaired. PROPORTIONS OF TEA A teaspoonful of tea to a cup of water is considered a fair pro- portion; this gives too strong a cup for some and not strong enough for otfiers. When strength is desired, secure it by adding tea, and not by longer steeping. ACCOMPANIMENTS TO TEA If one be fond of the genuine flavor of tea nothing will be added to the infusion. The addition of cream and sugar is an English custom; that of slices of lemon, or lemon juice is a Russian usage, while candied cherries in tea is an American innovation. TEA FOR LARGE COMPANIES Put the tea leaves, inclosed in a sheer muslin bag, iiito the clean and scalded pot and add boiling water to make a strong infusion. Let stand five minutes, then remove the bag. Dilute to taste with water at the boiling point. ICED TEA Make the tea of rather more strength than ordinary, that is, use a larger proportion of tea to water than when the tea is to be served hot; pour from the leaves, after standing the usual five minutes, directly upon the cracked ice in the glasses. Or, makie the tea of the usual strength and tiu-n from the leaves Into a fruit jar and let stand on the ice until thoroughly chilled. THE TEA BALL When tea is to be made for the afternoon caller a cup or two at a time, the silver tea ball, or the later teaspoon, which is used in TEA AND TEA MAKING 43 the same manner as the "ball," is very convenient. The baU, or spoon, holding the tea is placed in the cup; freshly boiling water is poured in s^nd the ball or spoon is removed when the color in- dicates that the infusion is sufficiently strong. DELICIOUS CUP OF TEA (DR. SHEPARD, PINEHURST, S. C.) Select a porcelain cup that is white inside, so as to show the color of the tea Uquor. Warm the dry cup and saucer until rather uncomfortable to hold. Put in the cup a half to one teaspoonful (according to taste) of "Pinehurst" green tea, and cover it with a saucer and a cosey, if handy, for a few minutes. Having quickly brought freshly (hrawn water to boiling, fill the cup and cover it with the saucer and cosey for three minutes. Then, without stirring or adding anything, drink only the upper half, or two thirds of the tea liquor. COFFEE "Sabean odours from the spicy shore Of Arabia the blest." COMPOSITION OF ROASTED COFFEE (CHDBCH) In 100 parts there are: water 2.0, albuminoids 12.5, caffeine i.o, fat or oil 12.5, tannin 5.0, minor extractives 14.4, cellulose, etc., 4S.0, mineral matter 4.6. The coffee plant, it is said, was introduced into /Arabia in the fifteenth century, but it was not until 1652 that the first coffee- shop was opened in London. Napoleon, like Voltaire, was as excessivdy fond of coffee as Boswell informs us the great Dr. Johnson was of Mrs. Thrale's cup of tea. Drimk in moderation, without cream and sugar, coffee is a mild stimulant to gastric digestion, hence after-dinner, or black coffee. Coffee also possesses a distinctly laxative effect. In most households a cup of coffee is considered the one thing needful at the breakfast hour. But how often this exhilarating beverage, that "comforteth the brain and heart and helpeth diges- tion " is made muddy and ill-flavored ! To-day, although we really have less to do than our foremothers, the individual housekeeper scarcely ever takes the time to roast her own coffee. The operation k a rather nice one, simply because it requires attention. [^ The object in roasting is to bring out the naturally deUcate arom» 44 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING of the coffee-bean; and the aroma, once developed, is to be retained. The French are said to accomplish this perfectly by adding to every three pounds of roasting berries a tablespoonful, each, of butter and powdered sugar. These, in melting, spread over the. beans in a thin coating, and so confine the volatile aroma. The browned sugar also gives to the coffee a slight flavor of caramel, which is much prized by the French. In the absence of a revolving drum, a thick iron frying pan is probably the best utensil for roasting coffee-berries. In whole- sale stores, where the coffee-berry is roasted, groimd, and trans- formed into amber-colored Uquid to be tested by the buyer, a small quantity is quickly roasted in an ordinary corn-popper. After roasting, the berries, whether ground, or unground, must be set aside in an airf tight receptacle. This is essential, for two reasMis: to hold within the aroma of the coffee, and to keep out the exhala- tions from other substances. Indeed, on account of the facility with which coffee appropriates imdesirable flavors, the whole process, from the roasting to the serving, must be guarded. You may roast the berries "to the queen's taste," and grind them fresh every morning, and yet, if the golden liquid be not prepared in the most immaculate of coffee-pots, with each return of morning a new disappointment awaits you. Now, it is not meant that one need possess a shining silver, or even a nickel-plated, coffee-pot, but the vessel that does serve as a coffee-pot must be kept nearly, if not quite, as clean as the "plates" for a "pure culture of germs." In cleaning a coffee-pot, only fresh water and a doth kept specially for the purpose should be used. Never set the coffee-pot aside with coffee in it. Occa- sionally cleanse by boiling in it a solution of sal-soda. There is another point upon which at least one author lays much stress. Brillat-Savarin, in his "Physiology of Taste," says: "The Turks do not use a mill to grind the coffee. They break it up in mortars with wooden pestles." He also adds that, after carefully ejcperimentmg with iJie ground and the powdered coffee, and solidting experts to test the two decoctions, the imanimous opinion of himsdf and friends was that "the coffee made with the pounded berry was evidently superior to that made with the ground powder." BOILED COFFEE In a coffee-pot that has been well-aired and well-scalded put twice as many level tablespoonfuls of ground coffee as there are cups to UTENSILS FOR BEATING EGGS Flat beaters, confectioner's whisk, Dover egg beater. PASTRY BAGS AND TUBES Pastry bag with threaded ring, copper tubes tin tubes. DOUBLE CREAM BEATEN SOLID WITH EGG BEATER Whip churn and frothed cream DUNLAP BEATER lOR WHIPPING CREAM QUICKLY AND WITHOUT SPATTERING COFFEE AND COFFEE MAIONG 45 be served; add as many egg-shells, washed before the eggs were broken, as there are cups to be served; or the white of an egg may be used, that of one egg being sufficient to clear about seven tablespoonfuls of ground coffee. Add a tablespoonful of cold water for each cup of liquid desired, and mix thoroughly; add the requisite number of cups of freshly boiling water and let boU five minutes after boiling begins. Pour a little cold water — from a quarter to half a cup — down the spout, stir in one tablespoonful of fresh coffee, and set the pot where it will simmer fifteen minutes. The quick bringing to a boil is what gives the bright, fresh flavor. The long simmering gives the mellowness. For the first reason, we make it with the hottest water possible. Just as good coffee can be made with cold water, if you have, as on a picnic, a hot flame and wide-bottomed, shallow receptacle for the coffee. But made in the ordinary cylindrical coffee-pot, over the ordinary heat of the stove, you will have "dead" coffee, if a cold or lukewarm mix- tiure works its slow way to a boiling point. And it wiQ have a "sharp" taste, if not given the proper amount of simmering. FILTERED COFFEE After-diimer, or black coffee, is usually made in a "drip" coffee- pot, in which the boiling water drips through the fine-ground coffee that is held in a filter. To prepare : put a cup of fine-groimd coffee in the filter, or strainer, of the coffee-pot, and set the pot in a dish of boiling water, if the means of keeping the liquid hot be not other- wise provided; pom: into the strainer a quart of water, freshly drawn and heated just to the boiling point; after the water filters through the coffee into the lower receptacle, pour off and return a second, and, sometimes, a third time to the filter. When the infusion is of the required strength, pour from the receptacle into a hot coffee- pot, and serve without delay, preferably without cream or sugar. COCOA AND CHOCOLATE AVEKAGE COMPOSITION OF COCOA AND CHOCOLATE AS PURCHASED (aTWATEK) Water Protein Fat Carboliydrates Ash Food Value Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Per lb. Calone* Cocoa .... : ....4.6 31.6 28.9 37-3 7.2 2.390 Chocolate . . . ■■■S-9 12.9 48.7 30.3 2. a 2.860 46 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING In dealing with tea and coffee we are considering articles that in themselves, as we use them, have absolutely no food value, articles that are prized by us simply on account of their stimulating qualities, but in all preparations made from cocoa-beans, or seeds, the beans themselves, in a prepared state, are consumed with the beverage, and analysis shows that the liquid is not only a beveragej but also a food of high nutritive value. It is on this account that a cup of cocoa or chocolate is a substantial addition to a light meal, as is the breakfast or luncheon quite often. Cocoa'is classed with tea and coffee because of its alkaloid prin- ciple, bromine, which, though milder and less stimulating, corre- sponds to the caffeine of coffee and the theine of tea. Cocoa-beans, like those of the coffee-shrub, are roasted before being ground or broken, and the process, as in roasting coffee, changes the starch in the seeds to dextrine. In the process of transforming the cocoa-beans into the cocoa of commerce, other changes are also made: the woody fibre and other insoluble matters, and a portion of the fat are removed, and starch and sugar are added, to change stDl more the proportion of fat to the other ingredients. Chocolate differs from many prep- arations of cocoa, in that less of the cocoa butter is removed, which necessitates the addition of a greater proportion of starch. And this in turn calls for cooking. When the excess of butter is obviated by some other means than the use of starch, then simply adding boiUng water or milk to the preparation will suffice. Choc- olate differs still further from cocoa, in that, crushed by heated rollers, the ingredients form a paste which may be pressed into moulds. Chocolate is often flavored; cinnamon, cloves, musk, and vanilla are used for this purpose. COCOA TO SERVE 125 Use one pound of cocoa, five pounds granulated sugar, three and one half quarts boiling water and two ounces vanilla. Put haJf the water in a double-boiler, add the cocoa and let stand imdisturbed until the cocoa is moistened; stir, add the rest of the water and stir again. Let cook one hour. Add the sugar, stir, tiien cook half an hour. When cold add the vanilla and strain through a cheese- cloth. Serve at once or set aside in cans. To serve two, divide one fourth of a cup of syrup between two cups, pour three fourths of a cup of hot milk into each. eocoA Amy chocolate 47 BREAKFAST COCOA 3 cups of scalded milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of cocoa powder. t cups of boiling water. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. Scald the milk in a double-boiler; mix the sugar and cocoa, stir in the boiling water, gradually, and let boil five or six minutes; turn the liquid into the hot milk, and beat with a whisk, or egg- beater, five minutes. Serve with additional sugar and cream, if desired. CHOCOLATE 2 ounces of chocolate. i cup of boiling water. 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 3 cups of scalded milk. Break the chocolate into pieces and melt over hot water; add the sugar and boiling water, and stir until smooth and glossy; let cook five or six minutes; add part of the milk, and when well mixed pour into the rest of the milk; let stand over the fire five or six minutes, beating meanwhile with a whisk or egg-beater, to make frothy and prevent a skin from forming on the surface. CREAM AND FLAVORINQ On occasion a flavoring of vanilla, or cinnamon, one or both, is a pleasing addition to a pot of cocoa, or chocolate. If cinnamon bark be used, let it steep in the milk while scalding the latter. Add groimd cinnamon to the sugar and cocoa powder, or to the melted chocolate. Whipped or frothed cream may be added to the liquid just before removing from the fire, and also to each cup as it is served. MILK CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF WHOLE MILK (AXWATEE) Water 87.3, protein 3.3, fat 4.0, carbohydrates .5, ash .7, calories '325. Milk, though classed as a beverage, is in reality a food; and when it is us^ as a part of a meal &e quantity of food ingested should be diminished accordingly. Milk is a perfect food for the young of all milk-giving animds, but on account of the large pro- portion of water in composition it is not so well adapted to the needs of. the adult. Too much liquid would be taken in the effort to secure a proper amount of the needful food elements. Or, in other words, taken alone, milk is not a well-balanced food. The protein is represented by albumen and casein, the carbohydrates 4S PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING by TpiHt sugar. When milk is taken into the stomach, rennin, a digestive ferment found in the gastric juice, coagulates the albvunen and casein, thus forming what is called curds. If cow's milk be taken into the stomach, a glassful at a time, these curds will be large and not easily acted upon by the digestive fluids. To remedy this, milk shoxild be "eaten" — that is, swallowed a teaspoonf ul at a time, or it may be diluted with lime-water, though barley-water is preferable. (See page 599.) Lime-water by its alkalinity partly neutralizes the acid of the gastric juice, and thus weakened the curdling process goes on more slowly. But such interference with the natural process of digestion cannot be rec- ommended. Eat the milk, or dilute it with barley-water, or, in the case of adults, sip the milk slowly, eating between the sips bread or some other form of farinaceous food. Adults living on milk have no color, the Tnillr being without iron in composition. In- fants have iron stored in the liver that supplies the system for a time. CREAM AND SKIMMED MILK Fimdamentally, in structure, milk is an emulaon consisting of fine oil globules swimming in a colorless fluid. These oil globules are caUeid cream, milk fat, or butter, and are the most easily di- gested of all fats. Cream skimmed by hand from milk contains almost all the fat present in the milk — for, being lighter than the other constituents, it rises to the surface — and also a small pro- portion of the casein. The skimmed milk contains most of the casein, albumen, and milk-sugar, with the water, and though it contains a large proportion of water, it is still nutritioiis. In large institutions, hospitals, schools, etc., whole milk rather than cream should be purchased, since the skimmed milk can be used to in- crease the nutritive value of many a dish. In buying cream, the cost of the milk from which the cream was taken is included. CARE OF MILK Milk readily absorbs odors, flavors and impuiiti«; it is one of the best of soils for the growth and multiplication of certain dis- ease germs. Bacteria are introduced from dust arising from the cow's body, from the clothing or hands of the milker, from the milk vessels, or from the water in which these have been washed. The bacteria of typhoid fever, diphtheria and tuberculosis may be transmitted in this way. Once adinitted to the milk, they begin MILK 49 to multiply: warmth is favorable to their growth, hence it is de- sirable to cool milk soon after it is drawn and to keep it at as low a temperature as possible. The souring of milk in a thunder- storm is due, not to the storm, but to the warm sultry weather preceding, which is favorable to the growth of bacteria. If kept thoroughly chilled milk is not affected by storms. Besides being kept cool, milk that is delivered in bottles and stored in refriger^ ators with other food should be tightly sealed. If the bottles are to be opened several times and the caps cannot be replaced, close the neck of the bottle with cotton. Since most disease germs are destroyed by heat, at the temperature of boiling water, milk may be made free from all living organisms — such mUk is said to be sterile. SCALDING MILK The digestibility of albumen in milk, as in all other substances, is diminished when it is heated to the boiling point; on this ac- count in cookery milk is scalded rather than boiled. This is done best in a double-boiler. The milk is scalded, when small bubbles appear on the surface next to the vessel. The temperatiu-e is about i6o° Fahr. If put directly over the fire and left, milk is liable to boil over. MUk contains so much soUd matter that, in boiling, the bubbles below are of such consistency that they hold up those above, or bubbles are piled up on bubbles until the dish overflows. STERILIZED MILK Milk is sterilized by heating to a temperature of 212° Fahr., and keeping at that temperature about thirty minutes, some say an hour and a half. To remain either pasteurized or sterihzed, milk must be kept seciure from contact .with outside germs. PASTEURIZED MILK Sterilized milk does not nourish or agree with those who take it as does fresh milk; the albumen is made indigestible by the high degree of heat, hence pasteturization (from the bacteriologist Pasteur) is regarded as preferable. Pasteurized milk has been freed from aU harmful bacteria temporarily. Milk is pasteurized by heating it to a temperature between 140° and 167° Fahr.> and keeping it at that temperature for about thirty minutes. At this comparatively low degree of temperature milk remains practically fresh and uncooked. so PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING TO PASTEURIZE MILK Put the milk into glass fruit jars, adjust the covers, but do not turn them down; set the jars on the rack in a steam kettle (alumi- num ware is good for this purpose, because it holds the heat), and fill the kettle with water to the height of the milk in the jar. Heat the water until the thermometer in the water-bath registers 171° Fahr. The temperature of the milk will be several degrees lower. Keep the kettle covered'. Now remove the kettle to a place where the water will remain at this temperature. Put t^o stove-lids under the kettle, or remove to a table and throw over it a heavy comfortable — cotton wadding is a non-conductor of heat — and allow it to stand thus for half an hoiu-. Now cool as quickly as possible, but gradually at first, or the bottles will break; then set away the jars in a cool place. The double-boiler may be used, but the steam kettle is more convenient for the use of the thermometer, and the glass jars are proper vessels in which to store milk. If a double-boiler be used, let it be a large one, so that the water in the bath may rise to the level of the rrulk. TO PASTEURIZE MILK WITHOUT A THERMOMETER For this is needed some sort of a utensil having a rack to hold the cans, or bottles up out of the water. The ordinary steam kettle answers this purpose, but any saucepan of suJEcient height, in which a rack can be fitted, is satisfactory. Pour water into the bottom of the pan below the rack of bottles and let boil twenty minutes after boiling begins. The steam surrounding the bottles, or jars of milk, heats them. Cool as quickly as possible; after a little while they may be set into a pail of cold water. Cover the jars, or close the bottles with cotton wadding, before heating the milk. KOUMISS I quart of fresh milk. i tablespoonful of brewer's yeast if tablespoonfuls of sugar, or (fresh), or better J cake of compressed I tablespoonful of syrup at 35° S. yeast softened in 1 tablespoonful gauge. of lukewarm water. Heat the milk to a temperature of 100° Fahr. ; add the sweetening and yeast, and stir until thoroughly mixed, then txim into bottles that can be tightly corked. Let the bottles be filled to within about two inches of their full height. Cork and tie in tie corks securely. EGG-NOGGS 51 Let stand at a temperature between 60° and 70" Fahr. ten hours. Chill before usmg. A tap for drawing the koumiss insures against the loss of much of the contents of each bottle. EQQ-NOQQ 12 eggs. I quart of milk. 24 (level) tablespoonfuls of pow- 6 wine-glasses of Jamaica Rum dered sugar. 6 wine-glasses of brandy. Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately. When the yolks are light add the sugar by spoonfiJds, continuing to beat until the mixture is very light. Then add the liquor, the brandy first, the first two glasses, drop by drop, and the rest gently; then add the milk and turn into a pimch-bowl; stir in part of the stifl-beaten whites of the eggs and let the rest look like a white foam on the top of the liquid. This is improved by standing a few hours in a cool place. EQa-NOQG, BALTIMORE STYLE (ADOLPHE MEYER) Beat the yolks of three eggs and one fourth a nutmeg grated, with two oimces of powdered sugar, to the consistency of cream; add, pouring in quietly the while, half a gill of brandy or rum and one glass of Marsala or brown sherry; add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff broth, and, when weU incorporated, a gill of cream and a pint of milk. FRUIT DRINKS LEMONADE (ONE GLASS) Mix the juice of half a lemon and two or three teaspoonfuls of sugar (sugar-syrup is better if at hand) ; mix imtil the sugar is dis- solved, then fill with cold water. LEMONADE I quart of syrup at 3S°S. 2 quarts of water. 6 lemons, juice and yellow rind. Pour the hot syrup over the yellow rinds of the lemon, from which every particle of the white portion has been removed, and let stand imtil cold. If the flavor be desired less strong, use the syrup cold, or less of the yellow rind. Add the juice to the water and mix with the cold syrup. All fruit juice, except, perhaps, pineapple, currant, and grape, is more agreeable, if uncooked. Let the lemonade stand on the ice in a closed jar two hours before serving. Ss PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING ORANGEADE I quart of syrup at 3S°S. 3 lemons, Juice only. 6 oranges, juice and yellow rind. 2 quarts of water. Prepare as lemonade. CURRANTADE 1 quart of red currants. i quart of syrup at ss'S. J pint of raspberries. 2 quarts of water. 1 lemon, juice only. Crush the currants and raspberries, add the water and filter the whole through a jelly-bag. Add the syrup, cold, to the filtered juice, tiun into jars, close tightly, and let stand on the ice two hours before serving. One quart of water and one pint of sugar boiled rapidly twenty minutes gives about one pint of syrup at about 35 on the syrup gauge. PINEAPPLE LEMONADE 2 cups of sugar. The juice of 3 or 4 lemons. I pint of water. A grated pineapple. I quart of water (about). Boil the sugar and pint of water ten minutes; let cool, and add the lemon juice, and tiie pineapple; let stand two hours, add the quart of water (charged water preferred) and serve at once. STRAWBERRYADE 1 quart of syrup at 35° (syrup gauge) Juice of 3 lemons. I pint of strawberry juice. 2 quarts of water. Mash the berries, add the lemon juice, and strain into the cold syrup; add to the water, and proceed as in lemonade. Additional water will be needed in this and the other similar beverages. FRUIT PUNCH I pineapple, or i quart of strawberry, currant, or J can of grated pineapple. grape juice. 3 cups of boiling water. i bottle of charged ApoUinaris water. I cup of tea freshly made. i quart of sugar, or better 3 cups of The juice of 6 lemons. syrup at 35°. The juice of 10 oranges. 4 quarts of water. Grate the pineapple, and boil with the water twenty minutes, or longer, then strain through a jelly-bag, pressing out aU the juice; STUFFED EGGS FOR PICNICS. (See page 6i., EGG OR EASTER CROQUETTES. (See page 60.) POACHED EGGS WITH SPINACH A LA CREME. ;See page 64.) FRUIT BEVERAGES 53 let cool and add the rest of the fruit juice, the tea and the syrup. If sugar be used, add a pint of water to the sugar and let boil six or eight minutes; cool before using. Add the Apollinaris water just before serving. It is better to make the punch a few hoiurs before the time of serving, then let stand, closely covered, on ice to chill and ripen. Then, when ready to serve, add the water and the Apollinaris. Strawberries, mint leaves, or slices of banana are often added as a garnish. RASPBERRY SHRUB I quart of cider vinegar. 6 quarts of red raspberries. I pint of sugar to each pint of juice. Put three quarts of the berries into an earthen jar, and pour over them the vinegar; let stand about twenty-four hours then strain through a jelly-bag, pressing out all the liquid; pour this liquid over a second three quarts of fresh berries and let stand again twenty-four hours; again strain through a jelly-bag expressing the juice. Add the sugar as above and let boil twenty minutes. Store as canned fruit, or in bottles. To serve, use one fourth a cup of the shrub to three fourths a cup of water. GRAPE WINE. (MARGARET WELLS, OHIO) Wash and stem the grapes and squeeze through a coarse cloth. Allow one quart of soft water to each three quarts of juice, and three poimds of brown sugar to four quarts of juice. Let stand six weeks in an open vessel, covered with a light cloth, to exclude the dust, and then bottle. CLARET CUP I quart of claret wine; J cup of brandy. I quart of charged Apollinaris water. Sugar sjrup to sweeten. , I pint of water, or tea. Mint leaves, if liked. The juice of 6 lemons. Strawberries, or pieces of pineapple. Mix all the ingredients, save the Apollinaris, the mint and the fruit; chill on ice. At serving add the other ingredients. HOT CLARET PUNCH Heat a bottle of claret with half a cup of sugar, a piece of stick cinnamon, half a dozen doves, and the juice of two lemons; stir while the sugar dissolves, strain and serve. S4 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVINQ DANDELION WINE Over two quarts of fresh dandelion blossoms pour one gallon of boiling water. Let stand from twenty-four to forty-eight hours, then strain through cheesecloth. Add the juice of four oranges and the juice of three lemons. Put in four pounds of granulated sugar and one foiurth cake of yeast foam. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Put the mixture in a two or three gallon jar. Tie muslin over the top of the jar. Set it in the cellar for six weeks. Then skim, strain and bottle. TEA PUNCH Boil one quart of water and one cup of sugar fifteen minutes. Pour three cups of boiling water over six teaspoonfuls of black tea, let steep five minutes, then strain into the syrup and set aside to become chilled. Wash carefully two lemons and one orange, then remove the thin yellow rind: mix this with an equal bulk of sugar and let stand an hour or two; add half a cup of daret or water, let stand ten or fifteen nunutes then pound with a pestle and press through a cheesecloth. Add this with the juice of the lemons and orange to the chilled syrup and tea, turn into glass jars, cover secure and let stand in the refrigerator until ready to use. Another half cup of claret may be added, or the pimch may be diluted a little with water. MINT PUNCH Shake together in a quart jar one cup of cold water, one cup of sugar and the leaves from a bunch of mint. When the sugar is dissolved, add the juice of six lemons and one cup of currant jmce. Fill the jar with water and let dull on ice. When ready to serve add one pint of carbonated water. QRAPE PUNCH To one quart of grape juice, add the juice of four lemons and six oranges, with one cup of sugar; when the sugar is dissolved, add one quart of water and let chill on ice. When ready to serve add a few sprigs of mint. CHAPTER II Eggs AVERAGE COMPOSITION (aTWATEr) " To make an omelette it is necessary to break eggs." Protein French Proverb Retuse Water (by difference) Fat Per Per Per Per Cent. Cent. Cent. Cent. Asli Fuel Value Per Per Pound Cent. Calories Whole egg. .. 11.2 65.5 13.1 9.3 .q 635 Boiled whites 86.2 13.0 .2 .6 250 Boiled yokes 49.5 16. i 33.3 i.i 1-705 It was our own Emerson, who said: "There is a best way of doing everything, even if it be to boil an egg." And yet with eggs the best way is not "to boil" at all, but to cook at a temperature below the boiling point of water, or, to be exact, not above 180° Fahr. An egg possesses its highest nutritive value in a raw state, and the higher the temperature to which it is subjected and the longer it is exposed to heat the more indigestible the albumen becomes. The white of an egg is nearly pure albumen, the yolk, though rich in albumen, contains about 30 per cent, of fat, and is also rich in sulphur. There are no uric acid derivatives in eggs. No other than fresh-laid eggs can be served at the breakfast table with full satisfaction. As the quality of the yolk, on account of its composition, is soon impaired, it should not be retained in the stomach longer than the time of normal digestion. If the egg, when eaten, be no longer fresh, or if, for any other cause, its diges- tion be impeded, derangement of the stonaach and intestines is liable to follow. Eggs axe digested more readily, when the whites and yolks have been mixed thoroughly before cooking, as in scrambled eggs and omelettes; for, in this case, the white is not taken into the stomach in a separate hard mass. Bilious people are accustomed to discard eggs in any form; but doubtless such,jnay eat the whites of fresh eggs, especially when 55 S6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING they are served in the form of a delicately baked custard, since in this case, the white, which is used alone, is broken up by beating and then is diluted by the other ingredients. It is the richness of the yolks that occasions disturbance; thirty parts of yolk in one hundred are fat, or oil, while the white contains but two parts of fat in one hundred. An egg is probably at its best when about twelve hours old. The shell of a fresh egg is full, but as the egg grows older, the water in composition evaporates through the porous shell, leaving a space, and the air penetrating causes the contents to deteriorate. Whtti first laid the yolk is surrounded by the white, but evapora- tion leaves it nearer the shell, and, if the egg be not left with the small end downward, the yolk from its weight wiU soon touch the shell, and contact with the air quickly spoils it. HOW TO TELL FRESH EQQS A fresh egg feels heavy and sinks in water; the dark spot that represents the yolk should be in the centre of the mass. No audible sound is made, when a fresh egg is shaken; shake one less fredi and the beating against the shell is perceptible. ' HOW TO PRESERVE EQQS To preserve eggs for any length of time, exclude the air by cover- ing them with fat, wax, strong brine, or lime-water; or pack them in sawdust, or meal. Eggs may be kept fresh in a cool, dry place for months by pack- ing them, small ends down, in a bod of ordinary coarse saJt. The shells should not come in contact, and each egg should stand up- right. The salt holds the egg firm in position and excludes the air. Fine coarse-salt such as is often used in freezing, is adapted to this purpose. TO PRESERVE EQQS FOR USE IN WINTER. (MRS. KIMBALL, STOCKBRIDQE) Into each three gallons of water mix one pint of fresh-slacked lime and one half pint of common salt; put in the eggs and cover ^vith a board sprinkled with lime and salt, EGOS 57 TO KEEP WHITES AND YOLKS AS "LEFTOVEJR" In recipes where only yolks are called for, the whites may be kept if carefully covered, in a cool place, for some days. When yolks are left over, they cannot be kept as long as the whites. The yolks should be beaten in a bowl, or cup, and carefully covered with a saucer. When they are required, they will be found in much better condition than when they are set away without beating (covered with cold water). When a recipe calls for whites of eggs, and one is to have no immediate use for yolks, drop the yolks very carefully, as the shells are broken, into hot water, "just ofiE the boil," and, after they are cooked throughout, set aside to serve in soup, one in each plate. Or, the cooked yolks may be rubbed through a sieve as a garnish for a salad, or for the top of a dish of cream-toast, or meat warmed in a sauce. CURIOUS WAYS OF COOKINQ EQQS Chef Adolphe Meyer in his little book on eggs, among other methods of cooking, aludes to two that might be tried by "campers." EGGS COOKED IN HOT ASHES "In countries where wood fire is constantly used, the cottagfcr half buries his eggs in an upright position in hot ashes, upon 3ie hearth, and when a clear drop oozes on the top of the shell the eggs are fit to be eaten." EGGS COOKED WITHOUT TIRE "The most singular method of cooking eggs is that attributed to the Egyptian shepherds, who, it is said, were able to cook eggs without fire, by placing them in a sling, and whirling them around so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the exact de- gree required." Aside from the above and other singular exceptions, and dis- carding combinations of egg, milk, starchy ingredients, etc., eggs are cooked in one of the following ways: I Boiled (in the shell) _ , . i .. flu water, stock, etc 2 Poached (white and yolk separate) < Shirred (in cocottes, or cases) Woulded (in tinibale cups) 3 Fried. (Omelet. 4 Yolk and White mixed < I Scrambled. 58 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BOILED EQQS The albumen of an egg cooked in boiling water three minutes, the time usually indicated to secure the regulation "soft-boiled" egg, becomes tough near the shell, while the yolk has scarcely felt the heat; eggs thus cooked cannot be called palatable, and, in part, are not reaSly digested. When cooked five minutes, the period considered necessary for "hard-boiled eggs," a hard, leathery mass results that is utterly unfit for other than the strongest stomach. The albumen of an egg begins to coagulate at 134° Fahr. ; at 160 Fahr. it is white throughout, but tender and jelly-like ; this con- sistency it loses at 200° Fahr., while at 212° Fahr. it becomes tough and indigestible. In actual practice the white of an egg cooked by standing half an hour in a vessel containing one pint of water kept at 160° is firm yet delicate and jelly-like, while the yolk is thick and almost firm. Then, if the water about the eggs could be kept at 160" Fahr., while the various degrees of consistency desired by the different members of the family were secured, the breakfast prob- lem, as far as satisfactorily cooked eggs are concerned, would be solved. But this involves too close attention for the general cook- ing of eggs. It may be carried out to perfection only in the oc- casional family; it may, however, be approximated very accurately as follows: For each egg put one pint of boiling water into a hot saucepan (less will do where several eggs are to be cooked), gently lower the eggs into the water and let stand, imcovered, on the back of the range, where the heat will neither be increased nor dimin- ished, eight or ten minutes. If wished very firm, let stand fotty or forty-five minutes, covering the saucepan after the first five minutes — i.e., set to cook in cold water. BOILED EQQS NO. 2 Allow one quart of boiling water to four eggs. Pour the water into an earthen jar that has been previously heated, put in the eggs, cover the dish and wrap in a heavy flannel cloth. The eggs will be soft-boiled in six minutes, more solid in ten minutes. BOILED EQQS NO. 3 Place the eggs covered with cold water over the fire and remove at the first boil. BOILED EGOS 59 EQQS FOR QARNISHINQ Let the eggs stand in water at 160° forty minutes; let stand in cold water ten or fifteen minutes, then remove the shell and cut with a sharp knife as desired. Soft-cooked eggs, removed whole from the shells, are often served with pur&s and sauces in the place of poached eggs. STUFFED TOMATOES WITH SOFT-BOILED EGGS Rather more than half-fill tomatoes, from which the centres have been taken, with equal parts of cooked, chopped mushroom trimmings and ham, moistened slightly with mushroom liquor, or the tomato taken from the centre. Season the mixture with salt and pepper and bind with the yolk of an egg, if desired, before putting in place. Bake the tomatoes until tender, but retain the shape, if possible. When ready to serve, dispose in each tomato a soft-boUed egg, shelled and reheated in hot water. Garnish the dish with the mushroom caps, from which the trimmings were taken, broiled and placed on rounds of toast. Serve with cream sauce apart, or poured over each egg. HARD BOILED EQQS WITH VARIATIONS HARD-BOILED EQQS A LA BECHAMEL Have ready finger-length strips of toast to make a square, place these side by side and pour over them a cup of Bechamel sauce; pass the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs through a sieve upon the top of the square and surround the sides with the whites of the eggs, cut in eighths lengthwise. BEAUREGARD EGGS Prepare a cup of white, or cream sauce, and stir into this the whites of four "hard-boiled eggs," chopped fine. Toast and ar- range in a serving dish bits of bread, cut to liken the petals of a daisy, having the petals about three inches in length. Spread the sauce on the buttered toast and press the yolks, seasoned with salt and pepper, in the centre to form the centre of the daisy. Garnish with parsley between the petals. eo PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING EGG VERMICELLI Spread rounds of moistened, or buttered toast with the preced- ing white mixture and sift the yolks over the top. Mix chopped chicken, ham, or mushrooms into the sauce, if convenient. EGG LOAF WITH ASPARAGUS Cooked asparagus tips. Onion juice. 1 cup of white sauce. Salt and pepper. 2 "hard-htoiled eggs." Cooked asparagus. Yolks of 6 eggs and r whole egg. White sauce. Use cream, or chicken stock and cream, in preparing the white sauce; add the hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, one cup of cooked asparagus tips, the yolks and whole egg, beaten light, (four well- beaten eggs may be substituted) and salt and pepper to taste; turn into a pint charlotte mould, or a bowl, thickly buttered and lined with cooked asparagus tips. Cook, standing in a dish of hot water, imtil the centre is firm. Let stand a few moments, then turn from the mould. Serve with drawn butter, or HoUandaise sauce, to which a few asparagus tips may be added. If a charlotte mould be used, fit a buttered paper into the bottom; arrange the aspar- agus tips in contact, or at intervals one with another. EGG, OR EASTER CROQUETTES J cup of butter i egg uncooked. § cup of flour. Salt and pepper to taste. I cup of chicken stock S or 6 "hard-boiled" eggs. i cup of cream. Mushrooms, or oysters. Prepare a sauce with the butter, flour, stock and cream; add salt and pepper, the uncooked egg, beaten light, and the cooked whites,, chopped, and yolks passed through a sieve; chill thoroughly, then form into egg-shaped croquettes with a bit of cooked mushroom, or a parboiled oyster in the centre of each. Egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat. (See Croquettes, pages 23-25.) Serve in a nest of parsley. Three eggs, with an equal bulk of fresh mush- rooms, broken in pieces and saut6d five minutes in butter, are pref- erable as far as savor is concerned. STUFFED EGGS AU GRATIN Cut six hard-boiled eggs in halves lengthwise; remove and sift the yolks, then add an equal quantity of cold boiled ham, with EGGS, STUFFED, ETC. 6i , chicken, or tongue pounded to a paste, half a teaspoonful, each, of paprika and mixed mustard, a few drops of onion juice, and uncooked yolk of egg, or sauce, as needed to shape. With this fill the •whites and press together correspondiag halves. Put three fourths a cup of bread, cream, or tomato sauce in a buttered gratin dish, and arrange the eggs in the sauce, pouring three fourths a cup over them; sprinkle over the top half a cup of coarse bread crumbs saUt6d in two tablespoonfuls of butter, and set the dish in the oven to reheat. STUFFED EQQS WITH SALAD 12 eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of oil. 2 tablespoonfuls of French mustard, i cup of cold boiled ham, or tongue. I tablespoonful of lemon juice. Salt and Cayenne. Cook the eggs as for garnishing, page 59, then cut in halves lengthwise; remove the yolks and rub to a smooth paste with the oil and seasonings; add the ham or tongue, fine-chopped, and mix thoroughly. Fill the space in the whites with this mixture, round- ing it to resemble a whole yolk. Serve on a bed of water-cress dressed with French dressing. STUFFED EQGS FOR PICNICS Prepare the eggs as for stuffed eggs with salad, but cut the eggs in halves, crosswise, instead of lengthwise; make the mixture level with the edge of the halves of egg; brush over the edge of one white with uncooked white of egg and press the corresponding half closely upon it; let stand to dry. Cut white tissue paper into pieces six inches square, fringe the opposite sides, and roll an egg in each paper, adding with the egg a sentiment or quotation. within on a bit of paper; twist the fringed ends in the same manner as. "candy secrets." Serve in a small basket lined with ferns, STUFFED EQQS, FRIED Have eggs cooked and shelled as "Eggs for Garnishing," on page ,59. With a tin tube, half an inch in diameter, remove a cylin- drical piece of white from the pointed end of each egg; then with a small vegetable spoon empty the whites of yolks. Pound the yolks witii Bernaise, or Hollandaise sauce, adding cooked mushrooms, chopped fine; fill the eggs with this mixture and put the pieces of 62 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING white back in place; egg-and-bread-aumb and fry to a pale sttaw color, in deep fat. Serve with Soubise, or tomato sauce. HARD-BOILED EQQS WITH NOODLES AND MUSHROOMS Arrange layers of cooked-and-blanched noodles, mushroom caps, broken in pieces and simmered in milk or broth, and hard- boiled eggs, cut in slices, in a gratin dish. Cover each layer with Bechamel sauce, reduced with the mushroom liquor. Sprinkle the whole Avith melted butter and grated Parmesan cheese, and reheat in a hot oven. Garnish with whole mushrooms and slices of egg. POACHED EQQS Eggs are poached by cooking in water after they have been taken from the shells. Witiout doubt, the idea of "poaching," as used in cookery, applies primarily to the direct appHcation of heated water without the intervention, as in the case of eggs, of the shell, or an intermediate vessel; thus we poach eggs, quenelles, or mer- ingue, directly in the water. But the term poadiing has come to be applied to the cooking of all articles containing eggs, either in the oven or on the top of the range, in dishes that are surrounded with hot water. Two things are essential to the perfection oi dishes cooked by poaching; first, the dish containing the food should be set on a trivet — several folds of paper answer admir- ably — that it may not come in contact with the vessel containing the heated water. Secondly, the water in which the cooking is to be done should be at the boiling point when it is poured about the dish containing the food, but it should not be allowed to boil there- after. But to retumto poached eggs. Kitchiner says that "the cook who wishes to display her skiU in poaching must endeavor to pro- cure eggs that have been laid a couple of days." The white of new-laid eggs is milky, easily dissolved and separated in water, but, on the other hand, if too stale, the cell-wdls do not remain firm, and the eggs flatten out. Kitchiner probably is about right. When poached to perfection the egg throughout is jelly-like, the golden yolk just showing through a "transparent veil" of white. To secure this condition brush over the bottom of an iron frying- pan with butter, or oil, then partly fill with boiling water, adding salt, or a little lemon juice, or vinegar; break the eggs one after another into a cup and turn them into the water, which should not EGGS, POACHED 63 be let boil, or even simmer. The top of the yolk should slightly emerge from the water; if the yolk be covered, carefuUy dip out some of the water; if too much is visible, add more water very care- fully, so as not to disturb the eggs; let stand until the egg is cooked to the consistency desired, then remove with a skimmer and ar- range on slices of bread toasted, after removing the crusts, and buttered. If the eggs be of proper age and poached carefully, they will not need trimming. It is an open question whether trimming ever improves their appearance. Add a few bits of water-cress or parsley, to complete the dish. POACHED EGOS, FRENCH STYLE Eggs poached, French style resemble in appearance and shape a soft-boiled egg removed whole from the shell. They are used principally to garnish a crust, or crouton, filled with puree. For success the eggs must be just about twenty-four hours old and cooked one at a time. Have about a quart of water, to which a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar has been added, boiling violently. Break the shell and turn the contents, at once, onto the water at a point where there is the greatest agi- tation. The high temperature of the water and the acid harden the albumen upon the outside and keep the egg whole. The egg should be kept in motion either by the boiling water, or the use of a skimmer; this tends to keep the mass oval in shape. Remove with a skimmer and drain before setting in place. POACHED EQQ, HYGIENIC FASHION Add a few grains of salt to the white of an egg, beat until dry and turn into a buttered glass, or a china bowl; form a nest on the top for the yolk. Set the glass on a trivet, in a covered dish of luke- warm water, and let cook until the egg is set and rises in the glass. Do not let the water boil around the glass. WITH TOAST Pile the beaten white of an egg on a round slice of toast, giving it the form of a nest; drop in the yolk and let cook in a moderate oven until set. In this case the toast takes the place of the water. At discretion the toast may first be spread with anchovy paste, fine-chopped ham, or chickeii, stirred into a white sauce. 64 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING POACHED EQQS WITH SPINACH A LA CRfeiWE Cook half a peck of spinach (see page 280) drain and chop. Cook two tablespoonfuls of flour in two of butter; add half a cup of cream, and when well blended and smooth add the spinach with salt and pepper as needed; cook and stir until well mixed, thea spread on rounds of toast, or fried bread and place a poached egg on top; sprinkle the yolk with fine-chopped parsley if desired. POACHED EQQS WITH CREAMED SALMON Brush the cases (see Bread Croustades, page 26) with melted butter and brown in the oven; fill with fresh salmon cooked, (canned salmon may be used), flaked and heated in a cup of hot cream sauce. Dispose a poached egg above the salmon. Serve garnished with parsley and slices of lemon. POACHED EQQS WITH CREAMED CELERY Arrange poached eggs in a circle on rounds of hot buttered toast; fill in the centre of the circle with a pint of celery, cut into indi lengths and cooked in boiling water until tender (about two hours), then stirred into a cup and a half of cream sauce. In making the sauce use half water in which the celery was cooked and half cream. POACHED EQQS WITH ANCHOVY TOAST Toast rounds of bread, spread with anchovy paste and place a poached egg on top of each roimd. EQQS POACHED IN CONSOMME Use consommd instead of water, poaching one or two eggs at a time; thicken the consomme, add a few spoonfuls of cream and pour around or over the eggs, arranged on slices of toast. OACHED EQQS, COUNTESS STYLE Fill puff-paste patties with asparagus tips, cooked and well buttered; cover with a poached egg and surround with cream, A^lout6, or Hollandaise sauce. If the cream sauce, made thick EGGS, POACHED 65 with pur6e of asparagus; be used in the patties with the egg above, the dish becomes poached eggs with cream of asparagus. POACHED EQQS, SICILIAN FASHION Fill bread croustades, or puff-paste cases with cooked and sifted chicken livers, mixed with cream or veloutfi sauce to form a thick puree; place a poached egg above. Pour tomato sauce over, or around the croutons. POACHED EQQS, CREOLE STYLE I can of tomatoes. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 1 green pepper, shredded. Salt and pepper. Toast. I tablespoonful of lemon juice, or 5 eggs. vinegar. Stew the tomatoes and pepper imtil the tomato is reduced one half; turn on to a serving dish, arrange on the tomato five rounds of toast, and upon each of these a poached egg. Melt and brown the butter, add the vinegar, or lemon juice, and, when the liquid boils, pour the sauce over the eggs; sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve at once. EQQS BENEDICT Split and toast English muffins, dip the edges In boiling salted water, and dot with bits of butter. Set a slice of hot broiled ham above each half muffin and a poached egg above the ham. Pour Hollandaise sauce over the whole. SALPICON OF EQQS IN CASSEROLES, PATTY-SHELLS, ETC. The whites of 6 eggs. The yolks of 6 eggs. 6 tablespoonfuls of thin cream. -6 tablespoonfuls of consomm6, or Salt and pepper. chicken broth. Beat the whites and yolks e^arately, and only until well broken up; add the liquid and seaisonings and strain into two well-buttered moulds, the yolks in one, the whites in the other. Poach in a moderate oven imtil the centres are firm. Unmould when cold, cut in thin slices and stamp out into figures. Reheat with truffles and smoked tongue, also cut out in figures, in Bechamel, velout6, or supreme sauce. Serve in patty-shells, Swedish timbale cases, V)cottes, china, or paper gases. If paper cases be the choice, brush 66 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING them over with oil, or melted butter and dry them in the oven before using. SHIRRED EQQS (GEUFS SUR LE PLAT). AU MIROIR. EGQ IN COCOTTES- Eggs poached in a dish are said to be shirred; when the eggs are basted with melted butter during the cooking, to give them a glossy, shiny appearance, the dish is called au miroir. Often the the eggs are served in the dish in which they are cooked; at other times, especially where several are cooked in the same dish, they are cut with a ^o^nd paste-cutter and served on croutons, or on a garnish. Eggs are shirred in flat dishes, in cases of china, or paper, or in cocottes. A cocotte is a small earthen saucepan with a handle, standing on three feet. These are usually of Sarregue- mines ware. The china cases are in various styles; some are pro- vided %vith a saucer upon which the case rests for serving. When paper cases are used, a second larger case receives the case in whict the egg is cooked. Mix two tablespoonfuls, each, of bread crumbs and chopped chicken, or ham (or use bread alone) with cream to make a batter; season with salt and pepper. Line a buttered cocotte, or case (china, or paper) with the batter, break an egg into the dish, and, if desired, cover with batter; bake on a folded paper in a dish con- taining hot water, until the egg is set. Serve from the dish. n Saute a handful of chopped mushrooms with a little onion juice in butter five minutes; add a little chopped parsley, sprinkle the same on the bottom and sides of a buttered shirrer or cocotte, and break the egg into the dish; sprinkle with the fine herbs and cook as above, basting two or three times with melted butter. EQQS SHIRRED IN TOMATOES (AU MIROIR) Cut circular pieces from the stem ends of the tomatoes and remove part of the pulp; season with salt and pepper, also with onion juice and parsley, if desired; breg,k an egg into each tomato and cook in a slow oven until the egg is set, basting with melted butter. Serve on rounds of butter^ toast; or, put the tomatoes into the oven on rounds of bread brushed over on all sides witia EGGS, FRIED, ETC. 67 melted butter; remove the tomatoes on the bread to the serving- dish. Garnish with curled celery. Serve with cream sauce apart, or poured around the toast. EQQS SHIRRED WITH CHICKEN FORCEMEAT Line buttered china cups with chicken forcemeat (see page 232) ; break an egg into the centre of each cup, cover with buttered paper and let poach, standing on a folded paper in a dish of hot water, about ten minutes. Serve with or without a spoonful of Bechamel sauce poured over the top of each egg. EQQS WITH MASHED POTATO Pipe a Duchess potato mixture (see page 264), or a well seasoned mashed-potato mixture as a border around the inside of an in- dividual egg-dish; spread cpoked fine herbs (see page 21), or bits of meat, or fish in a sauce over the open space on the bottom of the dish; above this break two eggs. Cook in the oven until the eggs are set. Sprinkle the yolks with pepper and serve at once. EQQS A LA PARISIENNE (MOULDED EQQS) Sprinkle the inside of buttered dariole moulds with fine-chopped parsley. Break an egg into each mould, dust with salt and pepper, set on a folded paper in 9, pan of hot water, and let poach, covered, on the top of the range, or in the oven, as convenient, until the eggs are firm, then turn from the moulds on to a hot serving-dish. Have ready a can of tomatoes that have been cooked fifteen min- utes with a slice of onion and passed through a sieve; season with salt and pepper and re-heat with a cup of canned mushrooms, or let simmer ten minutes with a cup of fresh mushrooms, peeled and saut6d in two tablespoonftils of butter. Pour the tomatoes and mushrooms about the eggs and serve at once. EQQS MOULDED IN PIMENTOS Line buttered timbale, or dariole moulds with canned pimentos (a can costing eighteen cents contains a dozen pimentos); break an egg into each mould, and poach until the egg is set; then turn from the moulds on to roimds of buttered toast and serve with cream sauce. 68 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING FRIED EQQS Have plenty of fat, not too hot, in a frying-pan; break the eggs, one by one, into a cup and turn them into the fat (don't crowd the pan); if the fat bubbles and spatters it is too hot; with a spoon dip the fat and pour it over the eggs. When the yolks are covert with a transparent film, remove to slices of broiled ham cut a little larger than the eggs. Eggs may be fried and present an appearance as. delicate as when they are poached. An egg fried brown is most indigestible and no additional flavor is gained thereby. EQQS WITH BROWN BUTTER 8 eggs. § cup of butter. Salt and pepper. i tablespoonful of vinegar. Heat half the butter in a frying-pan over a strong fire; when it is turning brown remove to a cooler place. Have ready the rest of the butter in a second frying-pan and into this carefully break the eggs without injuring the yolks; sprinkle with salt and pepper; pour the browned butter carefully over the surface of the eggs and put the vinegar on to heat in this frying-pan. When the whites become set, or firm, remove to a serving-dish and pour the vinegai over them. SCRAMBLED EQQS Butter a saut6-pan generously; add the eggs, beaten and seasoned as for a French omelet, also, if desired, half as many tablespoonfuls of cream, or water, as eggs — the liquid will give a more custard- like appearance to the dish. Stir the eggs, continually, until they are of a soft, creamy consistency throughout; the last of the cooking should be done by the heat of the pan. Serve at once. Scrambled eggs may be varied by the addition of any of the articles usually added to omelets. These materials may be chopped fine, or cut in small distinct cubes: they should be mixed with the eggs just before the pan is taken from the fire. Scrambled eggs may be served simply with a sprig of parsley, or on toast, or in cases with or without a sauce. SCRAMBLED EQQS AND TOMATOES, SPINACH BORDER Cook half a peck of spinach in broth. Chop fine. Season and form into a ring on a dish. Beat six eggs; add salt, pepper, and BAKED HALIBUT, BONE REMOVED AFTER BAKING. Garnish: Oyster croquettes (egg-shaped) and parp'''''y TURBANS OF HALIBUT AND BOILED POTATO BALLS. Garnish: Chopped parsley. (See pase 85.) FILLET OF FLOUNDER SERVED IN SILVER CASSEROLE. (See page 77.) Fillets baked in large dish and transferred to individual dishes OMELETS ^ half a cup of canned tomatoes; mix thorouglily. Turn into a hot omelet pan over two tablespoonfuls of melted butter; stir until the mixtiu-e is lightly set, then turn into the centre of the spinach dish, garnish and serve hot. EQGS A LA BUCKINGHAM 5 slices of toast. i teaspoonful of salt. I cup of cream sauce. Pepper. S eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, or water, 5 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. if desired. Dip the edges of the toast in boiling salted water, then in the sauce; pour the sauce over the toast, and above this the egg scrambled with the seasonings and liquid. Sprinkle the top with the cheese and set the dish in the oven just long enough to melt the cheese; then serve at once. EQGS, LOWELL STYLE Cut tomatoes in halves crosswise; dip in oil, or melted butter, then in fine bread, or cracker crumbs, and broil over a rather slow fire. Set aside to keep hot. Melt three tablepsoonfuls of butter, pour in half a dozen eggs — beaten until whites and yolks are well mixed — season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and dilute with five tablespoonfuls of water; stir a moment, then add five tablespoonfuls of grated cheese and stir until the cheese is melted and the eggs are set. Put the mixture on buttered rounds of toast with half a tomato above. OMELETS All omelets may be grouped under one or the other of two classes: the French, or the puffy. There are many varieties and modifica- tions of these two classes; but in reality, if these be examined care- fully, they will be found to belong to the one or the other group. THE EGG In most of the recipes given below the whole of the egg is used, but by preference the number of yolks should exceed that of the whites, as an omelet more tender and of looser texture results. Thudicum asserts that all cookery books, up to 1840, omit a num- ber, up to half, of all the whites, and Kitchiner says that no art can prevent an omelet being hard, if too muchof the white be left in it. 70 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING THE PAN The pan should be thin, as quick cooking is of importance; it should not be large, as one of the first requisites in a perfect omelet is thickness. The greatest care and skill are needed to secure an omelet in which the eggs are not liquid, but barely set. UTENSIL FOR SERVING A spoon or fork is the proper utensil for serving. If a knife needs be used the omelet is a failure. FRENCH OMELET To make a French omelet, break the eggs into a bowl; add as many tablespoonfuls of water as there are eggs, coimting two yolks as a whole egg, and for each three eggs, a dash of pepper and one fourth a teaspoonful of salt; beat the eggs with a spoon, or fork, until a spoonful can be taken up; then strain into another bowl. If a mild flavor of garlic be agreeable, rub the inside of the bowl into which the eggs are to be broken with a dove of garlic. Have ready in the cleanest, smoothest, and thinnest of frying-pans, a tablespoonful of melted butter; into this pour the egg mixture, set on a hot part of the range for a moment, then, with a thin knife, or spatula, separate the cooked portion from the side of the frying-pan, and gently rock the pan back and forth, the side next the handle raised as the pan is pushed forward and the opposite side raised as it is brought back, that the uncooked part may irun down next the pan. When creamy throughout, begin at the side of the pan next the handle and roll the omelet, letting the pan rest on the stove a moment, until the omelet is browned slightly, adding a little butter, if needed, and turn on to a hot platter. FORMULA FOR A THREE-EQQ OMELET 2 whole eggs. i teaspoonful of salt. 2 yolks of eggs. Dash of pepper. 3 tablespoonfuls of water. i tablespoonful of butter, PUFFY OMELET To make a puffy omelet, beat the whites of the eggs until dry ; beat the yolks until light-colored and thick; add to the yolks a tablespoonful of water for each yolk, and one fourth a teaspoonful OMELETS 71 of salt, and a dash of pepper for each three yolks; mix together thoroughly, and turn over the beaten whites, then cut and fold the whites into the yolk mixture. Have the pan buttered and hot as before, turn in tie mixtiure, spreading it evenly over the pan. Let stand for about two minutes, where there is a moderate heat, then set in the oven to cook the top shghtly. Just as soon as a knife — thrust into the centre of the omelet — comes out nearly clean, remove from the oven, cut across the centre of the tap, at right angles to the handle, fold the part nearest the handle over the other part, and turn on to a hot platter. Either the plain French omelet, or the puffy omelet may be varied by the use of a filling, or a garnish, or both. The filling, if fine-chopped, as parsley, or other herbs, may be mixed with the body of the omelet; though by "filling" we usually mean a little of the desired article chopped fine or cut in small cubes, perhaps mixed with a sauce, sprinkled on to the surface of the omelet before it is folded. When used as a garnish the article is mixed with a sauce and poured about the omelet. Green, or canned peas in white sauce, mushrooms, fresh or canned, macaroni in tomato sauce, oysters in cream sauce, fine-chopped ham, or chicken, aspar- agus tips, and tomatoes are among the favorite fillings and gar- nishes. OMELETS WITH A STARCHY FOUNDATION Oftentimes an omelet is desired that will keep in good condition a short interval after it has been made. In this case, a thickening ingredient is added to help hold up the eggs. In order to be either wholesome, or palatable, this f oxmdation must be thoroughly cooked before the eggs are added. While dishes of this class are called omelets, they belong more properly to the group of pancakes. MRS. GRANT'S OMELET 1 cup of sweet milk. ^ teaspoonful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Dash of pepper. 2 tablespoonfub of floiu:. S eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. With the first five ingredients make a white sauce; stir this gradually into the beaten yolks of the eggs, then fold in the whites of the eggs beaten dry. Melt the last two tablespoonfuls of butter ki the omelet pan, pour in the mixture and cook as a puffy omelet. 72 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Fine-chopped ham, chicken, oysters parboiled and cut in piieces, mushrooms cut in pieces, etc., etc. may be added to the sauce with the volks of eggs. RICE OMELET 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. ^ teaspoonful of salt. 2 eggs. I cup of warm, boiled rice. Beat the eggs, and add the salt and rice; the grains of rice should be whole and each held separately in the egg mixture; if the rice be very dry, add two tablespoonfuls of milk. Cook as a pufiy omelet. CHAPTER ni Fish and Its Cookery. Frogs and Terrapin "Tis very fresh and sweet, Sir — The fish was taken but this night." — Beaumont and Fletcher, Fish. Fish with Scales. Shell Fish. ^Bivalves. '/Oysters. < Clams, 'scallops. \. Frogs, Turtle, Terrapin. ^ fLobstets. iCrustftCKUis. .^Crab*. vShrimps. CHEMICAL COMPOSITIONS OF FISH (aTWATEU) Refuse. Water. Sl-2 37-4. Bluefish.. 48.6 403 Cod, whole ...29.9 58.5 Cod steaks... 9.3 72.4 Flounder 61.5 32.6 Haddock.... .,51 -o 40.o Halibut..:.. . J7. 7 61.9 Mackerel., ..44'7 40-4 Salmon ......29.5 48.1 Shad so-" 35-2 Shad roe 71-2 Smelt 41-9 461 Spanish 34.6 44.5 Brook Trout. .48.1 40.4 AS PURCHASED Protein Carbohy- Fuel value by diff 'ence. Fat. drates Ash. per pound- 8.7 2.2 ■S iSS 9.8 6.3 •7 210 10.6 .2 .8 2IS 16.9 •S .0 335 S-t ■3 >5 "S 8.2 .2 .6 -i6s ■ iS-i 4.4 ■9 470 10. 4.2 • 7 36s rsS 8.1 .8 600 9.2 4.8 ■7 380 20.9 3-8 2.6 i-S 600 10.0 I.O 1.0 230 13-7 6.2 1.0 S'S 9.8 I.i •6 230 7.< 74 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING PISH PRESERVED AND CANNED Protein. Carbohy- Fuel Value Reiase. Water, by difi'ence. Fat. drates. Ash. per pound Salt Cod 24.9 40-2 16.0 .4 18. s 315 Boneless Salt Cod 1.6 54.8 28.6 .3 .... 14.7 S4S Smoked Halibut 70 46.0 19. 1 14.0 13-9 95° Salt Mackerel ..19.7 348 13.9 21.2 10.4 1.155 Canned Salmon 14.2 56.8 19.5 7-5 2.0 680 Canned Sardines 236 23.7 12. i 5.3 950 SHELI^FISB. FRESH Protein Carbohy- Fuel Value Refuse. Water. by.diS'rnce. Fat. drates. Ash. per pound. Long Clams inshell.... 41-9 49-9 5° -6 11 i-S 140 Roimd Clams 67.3 28.0 2.1 .1 1.4 .9 70 Lobsters in Shell 61.7 30.7 5.9 .7 2 .8 140 Oysters in Shell 81.4 16. i 1.2 .2 .7 .4 45 Oysters, solid 88.3 6.0 1.3 3.3 i.i 230 Fish contains all the elements of jneat in an easily digested form; on this account it is adapted to the needs of old and young alike, and especially to sedentary people. In primitive times, when each man supplied his own larder at first hand, fish-aboimding streams were chosen for the abodes of men. As peoples grew in culture and refinement their written history, both sacred and profane, contains frequent allusions to the capture, cooking, and eating of fish. It is said that the Emperor Charles V visited the grave of the man who systematically introduced into the Netherlands the preservation of herring by salting, smoking, and drying them, as a benefactor of mankind. LucuUus, at great expense, connected a lake near Naples with the sea, in whidh he might keep sea-fish alive. We catdi a glimpse of the life of the age m the passage of sacred history where Simon Peter says, "I go a-fishing," and we marvel at thfr great draft of fishes after the long night of dis- couragement. What reader does not experience a thrill of the satisfaction that must have been felt by those weary men on land- ing, at sight of the "fire of coals and fish laid thereon and bread." On account of abundance, many varieties of fish are inexpensive. FISH AND ITS COOKERY 75 The price even of the choicest species, barring mollusks and crus- taceans, in season, is not high, when it is compared vdth. the cost of the best cuts of meat. Though fish has been a staple in food since the earliest times, yet the serving of fish in such form that it can be eaten with pleas- ure by people of delicate and aesthetic tendencies is of more recent date. This only affords additional proof that the cultivation of a people is determined by the maimer in which they cook and serve their meals. Notwithstanding all the shippers tell us of the conveniences of transportation, and of flavor preserved by keeping fish packed in ice for some days, we are inclined to be skeptical, and fear that housekeepers who dwell far inland, will not find in their markets sea-food in prime condition. In the vicinity of the Great Lakes, however, excellent whitefish and lake trout make up, in part, for this deficiency. Brook trout, than which few fish are more highly prized, are plentiful in many a mountain stream, and fresh-water lakes are destined to be stocked with the black bass and other edible fishes. Indeed, since cultivated trout can be sold at a profit, and the supply is said never to equal the demand, there would seem to be an opportunity here for a paying business venture. Of salt-water fish, cod, haddock, and halibut, are the staples. Common mackerel appear about the first of April, the Spanish about the fifteenth of the same month. Spanish mackerel is sold at twenty-five cents per pound, the common, at so much a fish, the price depending upon the season and size of the fish. Both are very handsome. They are easily distinguished by their color and marking. Indeed, from its marking the fish takes its name, this being derived from the Latin word macula, meaning a spot. The common mackerel is usually smaller in size than the Spanish, and the dark blue above is covered with many wavy, blackish cross-streaks. The Spanish mackerel is bluish and silvery above, with bright reflections, and upon the sides are many roundish . bronze spots. The huge swordfish, from which firm slices may be cut, is in season from July to September. Bluefish abound in May, when deep-sea fishing becomes possible. Frozen salmon may be found, in file Eastern markets, during the winter and spring, but the season begins in June. Salted salmon is especially deserving of mention, for even after the salting and freshening processes have been completed, the fish is very ridi, both in nitrogenous elements and in fat; it is good either bpiled or broiled. y6 PRACTICAL COOKING ANP SERVING Salt codfish may be so cooked as to make a most palatable and wholesome breakfast or Imicheon dish. It is comparatively easy of digestion, and is said to be particularly good for children^ troubled with complaints incident to hot weather. It also acts as a sedative, in cases of dyspepsia caused by fermentation. Shad are taken at Charleston in January, at Norfolk in February, at New York near the last of March, or the first of April, and at Boston by the end of April. The fish come from the south, run- ning up the rivers from the sea to deposit their spawn in fresh water. The season for brook trout begins April first. They come just in time to take the place of smelts, which are then no longer season- able. The fishery of white bait begins in April. This delicacy in fish, served at the popular clubs, is made fashionable on account of the Ministerial white bait dinner given at Greenwich just before the prorogation of Parliament. The labor involved in preparing and cooking this tiny fish is a drawback against its large consump- tion. TO DETERMINE THE FRESHNESS OF FISH Of fresh fish there is no odor; the flesh is firm, bright, and crisp- looking; the eyes are bright, not dull and lustreless, and the gills are of a bright red color. PREPARATION OF FISH FOR COOKERY TO CLEAN FISH Fish, either salt or fresh, is the better if it be cleaned and drawn immediately on being taken from the water. This is emphatically true in the case of fresh-water fish. Fish cleaned at the market will need, additional attention. Begin at the tail and scrape the fish to remove scales. See that the flesh be clean close to the back- bone. Wash quickly, inside and out, but do not let the fish stand in the water, drain and dry. Let stand, skin side down, upon the ice until time of cooking. This, according to Izaak Walton, should be speedy. Mackerel and bluefish, in particular, after transporation, even on ice, scarcely resemble the same fish, when it is eaten within a few boiurs after it has been taken from the salt water. SERVING riSH £i the fish is to be served whole, leave head and tail intact, but remove the eyes and cut off the fins. In whatever way the fisk GENERAL WAYS OF COOKING HSH 77 be cooked, it shoxild be carefxilly drained and mounted; use parsley or cress most lavishly in its garnishing. TO REMOVE THE SKIN It is a very simple matter to remove the bones also the skin from some kinds of fish, thus leaving the flesh clear and intact. Cut oflf the fins along the back, and then a strip of skin less than half an inch wide down the full length of the back; also cut the skin around the head. Dip the fingers ia salt that IJiey may not slip, then, after loosening the skin below the head, draw it off from one side of the fish, by pulling gently with one hand and pushing with the back of a knife held in the other hand, so as to keep the flesh whole; repeat the process on the other side of the fish. TO BONE A FISH Beginning at the tail, on one side, slip the knife in between the flesh and the bone and cleave the flesh from the bone its entire length; this gives one fillet; remove the other in the same manner. These fillets may be cooked whole, or cut in such pieces as are desired. Halibut cut in transverse slices, half an inch thick, is filleted by removing the skin on the edge and the single piece of bone from the centre. Each slice thus gives four fillets. Fillets of halibut and flounders are often sold as "fillets of sole." The sole is not found in our waters. The inexpensive floimder, dear to memory through the fairy tales of Grimm, will be foimd when filleted and served with tomato, or other piquant sauce, a most appetizing tidbit; but it is not quite the equal of the English sole. The more expensive chicken halibut is considered by many superior to sole. Large fillets from cod or haddock may be baked on an oiled fish-sheet with an oyster or bread-stufling between and but- tered criunbs above. If small, they may be marinated, tolled and fastened in shape with a small skewer or wooden toothpick. Butter the. skewers that they may be easily withdrawn after the fish is cooked. These fillets may be braised, baked, or, after egging-and bread-crumbing, fried. Frozen fish need to be thawed out in cold water, then cooked at once. GENERAL WAYS OF COOKING FISH Fish may be boiled, braised, baked, broiled, or fried, according to individual fancy, but a certain way is more suitable for some 78 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING varieties than it is for another. Red-blooded fish, as salmon, blue- fish, and mackerel, in which the fat is distributed throughout the fish, being rich and moist, should be cooked by other methods than sautSng and frying. Any white-blooded fish, as cod, haddock, and halibut, in which the fat is concentrated in the liver, will bear cooking by these latter methods. Salmon, which possesses a higher nutritive value than meat, chiefly on account of the large proportion of fat in composition, may be cooked in boiling water, which, as a general rule, unless the water be used as stock, is a wasteful way of cooking fish. When the white varieties are cooked in water they need be supplemented by rich sauces; and when baked they must be basted often, or they will be dry and tasteless. All fish, like veal and pork, must be thoroughly cooked, lest they be worse than unpalatable — that is, positively inimical to health. If cooked too long, however, fish loses flavor and is "woolly." COOKINQ F^ISH IN BOILING LIQUID In cooking fish in boiling Uquid, two things must be kept in view: appearance and nutritive effect. Cold liquid draws out the juices, while pltmging a fish in boiling water causes the skin to contract and crack. In consequence, a medium course must be pursued. Lower the fish, fastened in an upright position, if whole, on a fish rack, or sheet, or, in the absence of this useful utensil, coiled in a frying basket or tied in a piece of cheesecloth, into warm liquid and bring quickly to the boiling point; then let simmer until the flesh separates readily from the bones, and no longer. After simmering begins, cooking wiU take from five to eight minutes a pound, according to the thickness of the fish. Let the liquid just cover the fish; add a generous teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonf ul of vinegar or lemon juice to each two quarts of water, or milk and water, or court bouillon. When the fish is cooked, let drain over the kettle; dress with care on a folded napkin to absorb any liquid from the fish. Garnish plentifully with fresh parsley or cress. Serve with HoUandaise, Bechamel, or drawn- butter sauce. Lobster or pickles may be added to any of these sauces. Boiled potato balls are often served on the dish with the fish. A fish kettle with rack or sheet is of great convenience in graining and removing a fish whole and shapely to the platter. BROILING FISH 79 BROILING FISH Fish that when dressed presents a thin flat surface, particularly those varieties in which the oil is distributed throughout the flesh, as shad, bluefish and mackerel, are usually broiled. Without doubt the best results in broiling are obtained with the charcoal fire; but electricity, or gas, which may be extinguished as soon as the cook- ing is done, is often most convenient. The lower oven of a gas- range furnishes a most excellent place for broiling a live lobster or "planking " a fish. Before broiHng a fish, brush well with butter or oil, and be very careful that the fire be not too hot. After the first few seconds, the fish should be drawn away from the fire and cooked even more slowly. Many varieties of fish, if they be sub- jected to a fierce heat, become hard and indigestible. Mackerel and bluefish of fair size require fifteen or twenty minutes' slow cooking. Baste with butter once or twice. The latter part of the cooking, particularly when the fish is thick, will be most success- fully carried on in the oven. The broiler needs be placed in the oven over a dripping pan. Have the broiler hot and well oiled before the fish is put in it, and turn every ten seconds in cooking the flesh side, oftener in cooking the skin side, to avoid burning. Brush halibut or other dry fish generously with oil or butter, roll in soft bread crumbs and broil. With a silver fork carefully sepa- rate the fish from the broiler (double- wire broiler) on both sides, then slide on to the dish. Spread with maltre d'hdtel butter. A planked fish is broiled or roasted without turning; after the first ten seconds, it should be withdrawn some distance from the fire. The plank should be heated and oiled before the fish is fastened to it. COURT BOUILLON I stalk of celery cut fine. 3 or 4 cloves. I carrot cut fine. i small pepper without seeds. 1 onion cut fine. i bay leaf. 2 quarts of water i teaspoonful of salt. I cup of cider vinegar. Fish trimmings if at hand. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter or 2 sprigs of parsley, drippings. Saute the vegetables in the butter; add the other ingredients, let boil and skim, then cool a little and proceed as above. This liquid may be used in making the sauce, 01 it may be strained and kept for future use like any stock. 80 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BAKING FISH Fish may be baked whole, in large, thick slices, or in fillets. The natural dryness of white-blooded fish must be obviated as much as possible by basting. Shad, haUbut, salmon, bluefish, whitefish, and bass are among those commonly baked. A fish to be served whole is usually trussed in an upright position. A fish-sheet is of great assistance in removing the fish in perfect shape to the platter. A very good sheet may be made by any tinner and sold for twenty-five cents, each, at 50 per cent, profit. Select a piece of tin smaller than the baking pan, to facilitate basting; perforate with a dozen, or more, round holes, half an inch in dia- meter, in alternate rows opposite each other; finish with or without a wired edge; wire handles at the ends are a necessity. STUFFINQ A baked fish is usually stuffed; after the body is filled with the stuffing, but not too full, as the material will swell, sew up the opening with a trussing needle. Usually gashes are cut in the sides of the fish into which strips of fat pork are laid. TRUSSING The fish may be trussed in a circle, or in the shape of the letter S. To truss in a circle, pass the tail through the sockets of the eyes, then run a steel skewer dipped in melted butter through the tail, letting the point rest on the baking dish; the head will hold it in place. To skewer in the shape of an S, run the trussing needle, threaded with a double cord, through the head, middle of the body, and the tail, shorten the cord until the shape desired is secured, then tie securely. Brush over the fish-sheet or bottom of the pan with oil, or butter, before the fish is set in place; or slices of fat pork may be used. Dredge the fish with salt, pepper, and flour. Put slices of pork on the top. Baste with the drippings from the pork, add- ing a little hot water if needed. Salmon is often enveloped in an oiled paper before baking, as thereby the tempering of the heat preserves the color. FRIED FISH Most fish are very delicate in savor, and this is conserved by cooking in no way as in frying; that is, if the frying be properly FRYING AND SAUTEING FISH 8i done. Small fish and fillets are most suitable for frying. After the fish are properly cleaned, washed, and dried, season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, then egg-and-bread crumb. However, if one has not mastered the art of frying, and fear lest she send fat- soaked fish to the table, do not, on any account, attempt to cook fish in this way; for the disorganized products evolved from fat raised to a high temperature are neither appetizing nor wholesome. In frying fish, attention must be given to three points: every part should be covered with the egg and crumbs, that a fat-proof cover- ing be formed; at the moment of immersion, the fat should form a crust, and this heat should be well maintained until the fish is cooked; and, lastly, the fish should be thoroughly drained after the frying has been completed. Serve on a folded napkin, or dish- paper. SAUTED FISH Small fish, as brook trout, or fish cut in pieces, as halibut, are saut6d. Dry fish, like halibut, needs stand in a marinade some time before cooking; wipe the fish dry, season with salt and pepper, then roll in flour, or in sifted bread crumbs; cook in hot fat, tried out of salt pork, until of a golden brown, then turn with a broad-bladed knife and cook on the other side. There should be little fat in the pan, just enough to cover well the pan and keep the fish from clinging. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. SPECIAL DISHES OF FISH COOKED ACCORDING TO THE PREVIOUS DIRECTIONS, WITH VARIATIONS BOILED HALIBUT Cook a three-poimd slice, thick rather than long, of halibut, ac- cording to directions previously given, about twenty-five minutes; drain and remove the skin and bone from the centre. Set two slices of "hard-cooked" egg above with boiled potato balls at the ends. Serve egg sauce in abowl. SALMON STEAKS BAKED WITH MUSHROOMS Have four salmon steaks cut Just below the head of the fish. Put some bits of salt pork on a fish-sheet (the cover of a tin cracker box with edge pounded flat answers),- on the pork lay two of the 82 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING steaks, the open ends toward each other. Remove the stems from half a pound of fresh mushrooms and peel the caps. Melt three or four tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan; add a tablespoonful of grated onion and the caps, let cook three minutes. Set the caps on the salmon; add salt and pepper with bits of butter; above the mushrooms set the other slices of salmon, with open ends toward each other; pour the butter (if any) from the mushroom pan over the fish. Bake about half an hour, basting four or five tunes with melted butter. Meanwhile, chop the mushroom stems and peelings fine; melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, and in it cook and stir the chopped material until the butter is absorbed, add a cup and a half of cream and let simmer very gently until the fish is cooked. Season with salt and pepper and use as a sauce for the fish. SEA BASS, BUENA VISTA STYLE Have a bass weighing about foiu: poimds; scale thoroughly, wash and wipe dry. Cut a deep, lengthwise incision from head to tail on each side, and set on a buttered fish-sheet in a baking-pan; add a chopped onion, several branches of parsley, two cups of strained tomato and half a green pepper pod, cut in bits: season with salt and pepper and add a cup of port wine; put bits of butter on top. Heat to the boiling point, then let cook in a moderate oven forty minutes. Baste four or five times diuing the cooking. Thicken the liquid with butter and flom:, cooked together, and strain into a bowl. Remove the skin and hard portion around the stem ends of six or eight tomatoes and season with salt and pepper: put bits of butter above each and bake till tender. Slide the fish upon a serving-dish and dispose the tomatoes on top. Surround with parsley and serve. Fine-chopped parsley and a tablespoonful d lemon juice may be added to the sauce. MATELOTE OF HADDOCK AND OYSTERS 3 or 4 pounds of haddock. 4 yolks of ^gs. I pint of oysters. Salt and pepper. 4 large mild onions. i lemon. Remove the fillets from the haddock; cut into pieces three inche> by two. Cover the head, tail, and trimmings with the liquor from the oysters and water; add a slice or two of onion, sweet herbs, and a bit of carrot; let simmer to form a broth. Boil the onions, sepa- rately, until nearly tender, then cut in even slices. Put a layer of BAKED FISH 83 onion in a saucepan; upon this arrange the fillets of fish and the oysters, and dust with salt and pepper; add the juice of the lemon and the rest of the onion slices; strain the broth over the whole and close the pan tightly ; let simmer very gently imtil the fillets are ten- der, then strain off the broth. Arrange the fillets on a hot dish, and pour over them the broth, thickened with the yolks of four eggs. Do not let the broth boil after the yolks, carefully diluted with a little of the broth, have been added. Fresh-water fish or sea fish, other than haddock, prepared in this way are excellent. The oysters may be omitted. BAKED HALIBUT Select a solid piece of halibut weighing about three pounds; let stand in a marinade about an hovur (see page 26), drain, brush over with butter, or cover the top with slices of salt pork. Bake about forty minutes, vuitil the flesh separates readily from the bone, bast- ing every ten minutes. Remove the skin and after shding the fish on to the serving dish garnish with a puree of peas. (Dried peas, or peas too old for other cooking may be used.) Serve with any of the sauces for baked fish. SALMON BAKED IN PAPER Wrap a middle cut of salmon, seasoned with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, in a large sheet of buttered paper, and pin the ends together firmly. Melt one fourth a cup of butter in one fourth a cup of hot water, and pour over the fish in a baking-pan. Cover and bake one hour in a slow oven, basting every ten minutes. Re- move skin and serve with Bemaise sauce. Bake in a well-buttered paper bag. BAKED HALIBUT STEAKS Have two halibut steaks cut an inch and a half in thickness. Let stand in a marinade an hour or more. Lay thin slices of salt pork upon a fish-sheet. Place one of the steaks upon the pork. Dip oysters — about half a pint will be required — in melted butter, then in cracker crumbs, and place upon the fish to cover the entire surface. Place the second steak upon the oysters, season, and lay slices of pork on the top. Bake thirty-five or forty minutes, basting three or four times with the juice in the pan, or with butter melted in hot water. A few minutes before the fish is to be taken from the oven, remove the pork and cover the top with a cup of 84 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING cracker cmmbs that have been stirred into one third a cup of melted butter. Serve, when the crumbs are browned, with oyster, or HoUandaise sauce and potato balls. STUFFING FOR BAKED FISH (black bass, pickerel, bluefish, haddock, etc.) 5 oz. (i loaf) of bread crumbs. i teaspoonful sweet basil. 1 tableqxmnful of chopped parsley, i teaspoonfxil, each of salt and 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped onion or pepper. 1 teaspoonful of onion juice. } cup of melted butter. Mix all the ingredients together. The recipe makes a rich crum- bly stufl5ng. For a firm stuffing add liquid, as milk, water or an egg. Sweet basil is the herb that is thought to best harmonize with fish. It is easily grown. STUFFING FOR BAKED FISH NO. 2 Mix one cup and a half of soft bread crumbs, half a cup of melted butter, one teaspoonful of chopped olives or minced onion, half a green or red pepper, chopped, one teaspoonful each of chopped parsley and sweet basil, half a teaspoonful of salt. Also if con- venient add three fresh mushrooms, chopped. OYSTER STUFFING (for cod, haddock, bass, pickerel, or slices of halibut) § cup of bread crumbs. 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. I cup of cracker crumbs. Salt and pepper. J cup of butter. J tablespoonful of chopped parsley J pint of oysters. if desired. Oyster liquor to moisten. Stir the crumbs into the melted butter; add the seasonings, the oysters, bearded or not, and liquor to moisten. BONED CODFISH BAKED WITH FORCEMEAT Clean a codfish. Split the fish down the side opposite the back- bone. Slip a thin sharp knife under the backbone at the tail and separate the bone from the flesh the entire length of the fish and pick out any small bones that appear. Have ready a forcemeat, made of one cup and a half of pounded fish (another cod, piece of halibut, flounder, or salmon if a "pink" dish is desired), the whites PLANKED SHAD. Garnish: Mashed potato, radishes and parsley. (Set page 86.) FILLETS OF FLOUNDER AND GREEN PEAS. (See page 85.) BOILE.D SALMON, POTATO BALLS AND CRESS BAKED FISH 85 of two eggs, salt and pepper, and two thirds a cup of cream. (See Fish and Chicken Forcemeats, page 232.) Lay the fish, skin side down, on a buttered fish-sheet, and skewer the head and tail stand- ing upward. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. With forcing-bag and tube, fill in the space thus formed with the force- meat, making several parallel rows close to one another. Bake, basting with fish stock, or butter melted in hot water, about twenty-five minutes. Slide from the sheet to the serving dish, and sprinkle with sifted yolk of egg. Fill the mouth and eyes with parsley. To serve, cut through the centre and entire length of the fish, then, beginning at the head, cut out square pieces upon one side and then on the other. Serve with any fish sauce. FILLETS OF FLOUNDER WITH GREEN PEAS Dress and cut three flounders into a dozen fillets; dip the fillets in melted butter, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; or let stand in a marinade an hour or more. Fold each fillet around a bit of raw pared potato (this will keep the fillet in the desired shape) and arrange in a baking dish; half cover with hot fish stock, made of the trimmings, and cook in the oven about ten minutes. Dress the fillets, one overlapping another in a circle, with green peas, seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter, in the centre. Sift a cooked egg yolk between the fillets. Thicken the stock with roux for sauce. Remove the potato before serving. TURBANS OP HALIBUT WITH POTATO BALLS Have two slices of halibut cut half an inch thick; remove the skin and bone, thus securing eight fiillets. Dip in melted butter; squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon, a little onion juice and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Commencing with the widest end, roll each fillet into a " turban" and fasten by running through each a buttered wooden toothpick. Bake about twenty minutes, bast- ing with hot stock, or butter melted in hot water. Arrange crown shape on a serving-dish. Fill the centre with boiled potato balls dressed with salt, butter, and chopped parsley. Serve with Hol- landaise or other fish sauce. (See illustration opposite page 84.) TURBANS OF HALIBUT BAKED WITH TOMATO SAUCE Prepare as above; baste during cooking with tomato sauce and serve with additional tomato sauce. 86 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING TURBANS OF HALIBUT WITH OYSTER FORCEMEAT Prepare a cup of oyster forcemeat, qucnnelle, or cream, as de- sired. Spread the fillets with the forcemeat, then roll and bake as before. Or roll each fillet aroimd a plump oyster, and then bake as usual. Let the fillets stand in a marinade an hour before rolling. PLANKED SHAD, OR LAKE WHITEFISH Originally planked fish were cooked on a plank set up before a fire. At the present time a planked fish, steak, chicken, or other article is broDed or cooked in the oven (baked) in the usual manner, but left a trifle underdone. The article is then transferred to a plank made hot to receive it. Duchesse or plain mashed potato is set in place around the edge of the plank, the edges of the potato are brushed over with beaten yolk of egg diluted with milk and the plank set into a hot oven to brown the edges of the potato. A pastry bag holding a star tube is used in setting the potato in place. A generous quart of finished potato is needed for a fish weighing about three pounds. Upon removal of the planked fish from the oven, fin in the open spaces between the fish and potato with, cooked and seasoned string beans, peas, asparagus, luna beans, and an onion for each service. Often slices of cooked carrot are mixed with the green vegetables, or, the peas are set in cups fashioned from cooked beets. Spread maitre d' h6tel butter over the fish. Some- times several vegetables are mixed together before they are set around the fish. HoUandaise sauce is often served in a bowl. If the plank be set, for serving, on a platter fill in around it with parsley. BROILED MACKEREL Cut off the fins, split, dress and, if convenient, remove the back- bone; broil in the usual manner; dish on a hot platter, or on a plat- form of mashed potato shaped to the fish. Spread over the fish a partly melted maitre d'hdtel, anchovy, or green butter, or Livoumaise sauce. Garnish with slices of lemon and serve with sliced cucumbers. BROILED SHAD, OR OTHER FISH ROE Let the roe stand in marinade an hoiur; broil very slowly about ten minutes, basting several times with melted butter. Serve with maitre d'hdtel butter. Garnish with lemon quarters. FRIED FISH 87 BROILED BROOK TROUT Cut off the fins, draw by the gills, push the handle of a wooden spoon along the backbone of each fish on the inside, to loosen the blood-vessel that lies along the spine; wash and wipe dry; cut small incisions on both sides, season with salt and pepper, baste with oil, and broil in a double broMer from ten to fifteen minutes, ac- cording to size of the fish. Turn every few seconds while broiling, to avoid burning the skin. Hold the broiler farther from the fire after the first few seconds. FRIED SMELTS To clean the smelts, spread open the outer gills, then, with the thumb and forefinger, take hold of the inner gUls and pull gently; the parts unfit for food are all attached to these inner gills, and come away together, leaving the smelt in perfect shape. Rinse thoroughly and wipe dry. If the smelts are small, dip in milk, then roll in flour, or in egg and bread crumbs; string through the gills on silver skewers, three on a skewer, and fry in deep fat, a skewerful at a time. Serve on a folded napkin with sauce Tar- tare. If the smelts be large, or are to be used as garnish for a baked fish, fasten tails in mouths with a wooden toothpick, egg-and- bread crumb and fry in deep fat, three, or four at a time. (See Directions for Frying Fish, page 80). FRIED BASS WITH BACON Scale and wash the fish thoroughly and cut into pieces; season with pepper and salt, roll in flour, then in beaten eggs, and, lastly, in fine bread crumbs. Fry to a golden brown in deep fat, very hot. Fry in a separate pan, or cook in the oven, in a double-broiler over a dripping pan, a slice of bacon for each piece of fish; lay the bacon on the fish, and garnish with parsley. Serve with mashed potatoes and sliced tomatoes, or with cucumbers. FRESH CODFISH, FRIED Select middle cuts of fish in slices about an inch thick; shape in disks by fastening the ends securely with wooden toothpicks dipped in melted butter. Season with salt, pepper, onion and lemon juice, and set aside in a. cool place to become thoroughly seasoned. Cover with bread crumbs, then with beaten egg, and, lastly, with crumbs, 88 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING and fry in deep fat, smoking hot, five, or six minutes. Drain on soft paper. Serve with Tartare or tomato sauce. STUFFED FILLETS OF FLOUNDERS Take fillets from a flounder weighing two pounds and a haK and let stand in marinade an hour. Spread oh one half of each fillet a tablespoonful of mashed potato (about one cup should be pre- pared) mixed with the beaten yolk of an egg and seasoned with one tablespoonful of butter, one fourth a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. Fold the other half of each fillet over the potato, cover with crumbs, dip in the white of the egg beaten with two tablespoonfuls of water, and again cover with crumbs; insert a short piece of macaroni in the pointed end of each fillet and fry in deep fat. Drain on soft paper, and cover the macaroni with a paper frill. Garnish with lemon and parsley and serve with onion pur6e, or tomato sauce. FILLETS OF FLOUNDER STUFFED WITH FORCEMEAT Make a cream, or quennelle forcemeat, using half a poimd (one cup) of fish, weighed or measured after passing through the wire sieve. Use in the preceding recipe in the place of the potato. Serve as above, or with sauce Tartare. Or instead of frying the fillets, put them in a baking dish with a little fish stock, or salted and acidulated water, and bake about fifteen minutes. If stock be used, thicken as for a sauce, or use any sauce served with baked fish. SHAD-ROE CROQUETTES Cook the roe in boiling salted and acidulated water fifteen min- utes, drain and mash. For each pint of roe, beat together one fourth a cup, each, of cornstarch and butter, and cook in a cup and a half of hot cream ten minutes; add the juice of half a lemon, half a teaspoonftil, each, of salt and paprika, a few drops of onion juice, one egg, beaten, the roe, and, if at hand, a few mushrooms, sautdd and chopped; cool in a shallow dish, shape into croquettes, egg-and- bread-crumb and fry in deep fat. SHAD ROE, MARYLAND STYLE Put two or three roes in a well-buttered baking dish; sprinkle with salt and pepper and half cover with broth; add two table- FRIED FISH 89 spoonfuls of butter, cut in pieces; cover the pan and cook in the oven fifteen minutes. Keep hot on the range until the stock is reduced to one cup, or less. Beat the yolks of three eggs, add one cup of thin cream and stir into the hot sauce very slowly; cook over hot water, until thickened slightly, adding, meanwhile, two table- spoonfuls of butter; also add salt and pepper, if required, and pour over the roes. Garnish with thin slices of broiled bacon. Other roe than shad may be cooked in the same manner. BROOK TROUT IN PAPER BAGS Dress half a dozen brook trout, weighing about four ounces each, without destroying shape. Fill with forcemeat and secure the slit made in dressing. Brush the inside of a paper bag with melted butter, or olive oil, and put in very thin shavings of salt pork or mild cured bacon, with trout above; dust with salt and pepper, then fold the bag and fasten closely with two clips. Bake about twenty minutes in a hot oven. Remove from the bag. Pass at the same time HoUandaise, Bechamel, or tomato sauce. BASS FORCEMEAT FOR BROOK TROUT Pound in a mortar half a pound of bass from which the skin and bones have been taken; add to the fish while pounding, the whites of two eggs, a little at a time, and pass through the sieve; add gradu- ally half a cup of cream. Season with salt and pepper. Use a forcing-bag and plain tube in filling the fish. SALMON MOUSSELINE J pound of uncooked salmon. 3 yolks of eggs. J cup of thick tomato, or veloutfi 4 whites of eggs. 12 raw oysters, bearded. Salt and pepper. Weigh the fish after the skin and bones have been removed. Pound the salmon in a mortar to a smooth pulp; add while pound- ing the other ingredients, except the whites of the eggs. Beard the oysters and remove the button-shaped muscle before adding to the mixture. Pass the mixture through a puree sieve, and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into small bomb motJds well buttered and decorated with truffles if desired. Put the mixture into the moulds very carefully, that the moulds, may go PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING be filled perfectly. Set the moulds into timbale movdds that thejr may stand upright; surround with hot water and let poach in the oven, or on top of the stove, about fifteen minutes, or until firm to the touch. Unmould and pour around them a cup and a half of white sauce, made of stock prepared with the trimmings of the fish and oysters, a little cream, lemon juice, and white roux. Just before serving beat into the sauce the remaining egg yolk. TURBAN OF HALIBUT WITH LOBSTER i pound (i cup) of halibut freed from skin and bone. Whites of 3 eggs, i pound of panada (§ cup). i cup of double dream. i cup of butter. 1 lobster. Salt and pepper. 15 cups of veloutfi sauce. Pound the halibut, which should weigh a full half-pound after it has been freed from skin and bone, to a smooth paste, adding mean- while, the white of an egg, gradually, then press through a pur&- sieve. Cook bread, soaked in water and squeezed dry, with milk to a paste; stir and cook tmtil the mixture forms a ball, then take out half a cup and add to this the butter, salt and paprika, the halibut and whites of eggs; then pass again through a puree-sieve. Beat in gradually the cream. Poach in a buttered border-mould, sprinkled with lobster coral, about fifteen minutes, or until firm. Turn from the mould and fill in the centre with the meat of a small lobster, cut in cubes and heated in the velout6 sauce. RECIPES FOR SERVING CURED FISH BROILED FINNAN-HADDIE (mild-smoked, dried haddock) Wash the fish thoroughly; let soak half an hour in cold water, skin side up; cover with water "just o£E the boil," let stand fifteen minutes, then drain carefully and wipe dry; brush over with butter or olive oil and broil over a rather dull fire about fifteen minutes. Turn onto a hot platter, dot with bits of butter, here and there, sprinkle with the juice of half a lemon and serve at once. FINNAN-HADDIE, A LA DELMONICO Prepare as before, then, when dry, remove skin and bones and separate into flakes. Put the flak^ fish into a buttered serving- RECIPES FOR CURED FISH 91 dish and pour over it a thin white sauce equal in quantity to the fish; cover with buttered crumbs and baJce in a hot oven long enough to brown the crumbs. PICKED-UP CODFISH Let one pint of salt codfish, picked in tiny pieces, stand covered with cold water several hours, then drain, pressing out the water. Add a pint of rich creamy milk, and when scalded stir in one fourth a cup of flour mixed to a smooth paste with one fourth a cup of milk; stir constantly imtil the boiling point is reached, then let cook over hot water ten minutes; just before serving stir in two eggs slightly beaten. SARDINES WITH SPINACH I cup of fresh grated bread crumbs. Sardines. I cup of butter. 4 "hard-boUed" eggs. I peck of spinach. Salt and pepper. Broth if needed. Heat the crumbs in the melted butter; add the cooked spinach, chopped fijie, and the flesh (skin and bones rejected) of a dozen sardines; season to taste with salt and pepper; add hot broth if needed and thoroughly reheat. Form into an oblong on a serving- dish. Put sardines, from which the oil has been carefully wiped, over the top and hard-boiled eggs, cut into slices, aroimd the mound. Serve as a luncheon dish. Lemon slices are a fitting ac- companiment. SALT CODFISH BALLS I pint of potatoes. i cup of raw salt codfish. I egg. Salt and pepper. Fat for frying. Cut the pared potatoes into quarters; put the codfish, picked into tiny bits, above the potatoes in a saucepan and pour boiling water about (not over) the potatoes. Do not quite cover them with the water. Cook imtil tender. Drain off the water, set the saucepan, covered with a cloth, on the back of the range, to dry the potatoes. Mash thorouglily — a potato-ricer is the best utensil for this purpose. The fish should be shaken from the potatoes, as it will .not 92 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING readily pass through the ricer. Add salt, if needed, and pepper to taste. Beat an egg until white and yolk are well mixed; add gradually a little of the fishball mixture, and, when blended, return to that in tiie saucepan and beat thoroughly. Shape the mixture with the hands into smooth balls, pressing lightly into shape. Fry in deep fat, very hot, to an amber color. Use a frying basket and cook not more than five at a time. Reheat the fat after each fry- ing. Avoid the use of fat that has been heated many times. Serve with mustard, or with horseradish, tomato, or Tartare sauce. PLAIN ANCHOVIES Let the anchovies soak in cold water about two hours; dry on a cloth, and split open, using the hands, or a silver-plated knife. Discarding the bones, arrange the halves on a dish, and surround with fine-chopped white of egg and parsley. Serve with oil and lemon juice. STUFFED ANCHOVIES Prepare the anchovies as above; pound a little cooked fish of any kind at hand to a paste, add an equal bulk of fine, soft bread crumbs, and stir in yolks of eggs to form a paste; put a little of this mixture, seasoned to taste, between the halves of a fish; egg-and- bread-crumb, or dip into batter, and fry to a delicate color in deep fat. Garnish with parsley. BROILED SALT MACKEREL Let soak in cold water twelve hours skin side up. Drain and wipe dry. Brush over with oil or butter. Broil in a well-oiled broiler, principally on the flesh side, basting with oil or butter once or twice. Remove carefully to the serving-dish and pour over half or three fourths a cup of hot cream. Sprinkle with fine- chopped parsley. SALTED SALMON BROILED Let stand in cold water at least twenty-four hours, thirty-six hours is better. Cook as broiled salt mackerel. Salted salmon is particularly good when boiled and served with an egg sauce and plain-boiled potatoes. nSH RfeCHAUFF]&S <^ RECIPES FOR FISH RECHAUFFES CHARTREUSE OF SALMON 1 cup of rice. i cup of butter. 3 cups of milk, or stock, or equal parta of each or water. i pound of cooked salmon. \ teaspoonful of salt. Salt and pepper. I tablespoonful of curry powder. i teaspoonful of onion juice. 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. Parboil the rice in plenty of water five minutes; drain and add the salt and liquid; let steam vmtil nearly tender, then lightly stir in the butter, creamed with the curry powder and onion juice, and steam imtil tender; line a two-quart mould, buttered, with the rice; fill the centre with the salmon, flaked and seasoned with the salt, pepper, and lemon juice; cover the fish with rice and let steam half an hour. Serve with drawn-butter sauce. Garnish with hard- boiled eggs, cut in eighths, or add the eggs to the sauce. FISH CAKES (remnants of any fresh fish) Pass hot boiled potatoes through a ricer, or vegetable press; season with salt and pepper, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and one egg, beaten, to each pint of potatoes and, beat thoroughly; a per- forated wooden spoon is good for the purpose. Add an equal amount of cooked fish, flaked, either hot or cold, two or three tablespoonfuls of egg sauce, if any remain, or a little more butter and, when thoroughly mixed, shape into flat cakes. Put slices of bacon into a hot frying-pan and turn each slice in a spiral fashion while cooking. Saute the fish cakes in the hot fat, after removing the bacon to soft paper to drain, first on one side and then on the other; place a well-poached egg on the top of each cake, ciurls of bacon between and parsley with a radish in the centre. FISH CHOPS (canned salmon, or any remnants of cooked fish) If canned salmon be used, drain the oil from the can, remove the skin and bones and pick the fish fine with a silver fork; add a table- spoonful of lemon juice and a dash of paprika. Make a cup of white sauce, using two tablespoonfuls of butter and one fourth a 94 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING cup of flour (double the usual quantity of flour); add the fish and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. When the mixture is thoroughly cold, form into chops. Egg-and-bread-cnimb them, adding a little chopped parsley to the crumbs. Put a piece of macaroni into the end of the chop, to represent the chop-bone, and fry in deep fat. Arrange a crouton of bread in the centre of a serving dish; upon this place a dish filled with sauce Tar tare, and set the chops against and around the bread. FISH A LA CREME Prepare a duchesse potato mixture, or use plain mashed potatoes, well-seasoned and beaten; shape the potato into an oval or circular wall on a serving-dish that will bear the heat of the oven; roll part of the potato into small balls and set these close together on the top of the wall, brush over the potato with the yolk of an egg, beaten slightly and diluted with a tablespoonful of milk. Have ready an equal bulk of cold cooked fish, flaked, and white sauce. In making the sauce use fish stock, or milk, or half and half; add any egg left after brushing over the potato. Put alternate layers of sauce and fish inside the wall. Cover the top with half a cup of cracker crumbs, mixed with one fourth a cup of melted butter. Set the dish in the oven over hot water about fifteen minutes, or until the crumbs and potatoes are delicately browned. FISH IN CURRY SAUCE Almost any variety of cold cooked fish separated into flakes, makes a very appetizing dish, if it be allowed to stand (over hot water) while it is slowly heated in a hot curry sauce. White stock from fish or fowl, or milk is needed in the sauce. A slice of onion naay or may not be sauted in the butter; a very little lemon juice supplies the mild acid so acceptable in curries. FISH TURBOT. (MRS. WILLIAM B. SEW ALL, BOSTON) 4 pounds of codfish. i slice of onion. Salt and pepper. i sprig of parsley, i pound of flour (i cup). J pound of butter. I quart of milk. 2 eggs. A sprig of thyme. Grated cheese. Cook the fish in bofling, salted acidulated water until the flesh separates easily from the bone; drain, remove the skin and bone SHELL-FISH 95 and separate into flakes while hot. Stir the flour mixed with milk to pour into a quart of milk, scalded with the thyme, onion, and parsley; cook in a double-boiler to a smooth paste, stirring mean- while, then strain, and add the butter and the beaten eggs. Put a layer of fish into a buttered gratin dish, then a layer of sauce, and so continue until fish and sauce are used. Have sauce for the last layer; cover with grated cheese and brown in the oven. SHELL-FISH BIVALVES "We search the ocean's clear blue depths. We tempt with bait and hook; And dose-lipped bivalves force to speak In measures for our book." OYSTERS Shell-fish, like fish xmprotected by shells, are classed as white, or red fleshed. When fresh, white-fleshed shell-fish, of which oysters are the principal variety, are comparatively easy of diges- tion, while the red-fleshed lobsters and shrimps are even more difficult of digestion than are salmon and bluefish. Oysters are in season from September to May. They are sold in the shell by the dozen or peck, or, after removal from the shell, by the quart. There are about fifty oysters in a quart. The freshness of an oyster is of first consideration, and, when possible, it is well to buy them in the shells. For transportation in bulk, after removal from the shell, preservatives are no longer used. Also ice is not added to the o)rsters — but is packed in the recep- tacle arotmd them, thus oysters are now received in good con- dition in cities remote from the sea. The two valves of the oyster's shells are somewhat dissimilar; the left, or lower valve, is deeper and more capacious; this is the half of the shell from which raw oysters are served; by a calcareous growth from this valve, the oyster is attached to foreign bodies. The two halves are held together by an adductor muscle, each end of which rests in a slight depression in the valve. This muscle is the white button-shaped part of the oyster; it is tough and in- digestible, as are also the edges, or gills, of the oyster, and both are often removed before cooking. When so treated the oyster is said CO be bearded. 96 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Oysters are found in all seas at a short distance from shore. The favorite habitat is the tranquil waters of a bay formed by the mouth of a large river. Oysters from Chesapeake Bay are most esteemed in this country. Those taken from the coast of New Jersey and Long Island Sound are also in favor. In the New York markets, the small blue points, taken from the southern shores of Long Island, are in demand for service on the half-shell. In the Boston markets, Providence River and Cape Cod oysters are quite generally used. At the present day we have very few natural oysters; nearly all are the result of cultivation — the resulting stock, it is said, being superior to the natural oyster. Oysters are not very nutritious; they are eaten more as a "pro- vocative to appetite" than for their food value. TO OPEN OYSTERS Push a thin flat knife under the right, or upper valve of the oyster, and cut the adductor muscle. Then the right valve may be Hfted up and separated from the lower valve that contains the oyster. Put the oysters into a colander over a bowl; pour over each quart a generous half cup of water; inspect the oysters, one by one, to see that no bit of shell still adheres. Save the liquor to use with the oysters, or in making fish stock, or sauce. Pour off the liquor carefully ao sand is liable to be found at the bottom. CLAMS Clams are dug with a rake when the tide is out, in the gravelly mud of river mouths, the beds being exposed at low water. They are found about a foot below the siurface. When cooked, the harder part of the clam is quite indigestible. When this part is used in cookery it needs to be chopped, or, better still, discarded entirely, after it has yielded its juices to a dish. The variety known as Little Neck clams is served raw in place of oysters, when these are out of season and clams can be procured. SCALLOPS The only portion of this bivalve (scallops) that is eaten is the muscle of the shell. This corresponds to the adductor muscle of the oyster, differing, however, in point of tenderness. Scallops are in season from October to April. They have a delicate, sweetah taste, and are considered a delicious morsel. On the Atlantic RECIPES FOR SHELL-FISH 97 coast they are found from Newfoundland southward. The shell is beautifully ribbed and zoned in varying shades of red and purple. This is made use of as a receptacle in cooking oysters; hence the name scalloped oysters, fish, etc. For scallop cocktails use next recipe. RECIPES FOR SHELL=FISH OYSTER COCKTAIL FOR ONE or 10 oysters. 2 drops of tabasco sauce. i teaspoonful of grated horseradish. 10 drops of Worcestershire sauce Juice of i lemon. i teaspoonful of tomato catsup. OYSTER COCKTAILS FOR TWELVE PERSONS Clean and chill sixty smaU oysters ; mix with three teaspoonfuls of fine-grated horseradish, quarter of a teaspoonful of tabasco sauce, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, five tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, three tablespoonfuls ofv Worcestershire sauce, three table- spoonfuls of tomato catsup, and one teaspoonful and a fourth of salt. Serve in sherry glasses, in grape-fruit, or lemon shells, or in tomato cups. If fresh tomatoes are not at hand, cups may be shaped from tomato jelly. Plain tomato catsup makes a good cocktail sauce. COCKTAIL OF LITTLE NECK CLAMS IN TOMATO CUPS Peel and scoop out the centres of small round tomatoes; chill thoroughly on ice together with half a dozen Little Neck clams for each tomato. Mix one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one table- spoonful of mushroom catsup, five or six drops of tabasco sauce, a dash of paprika, and one fourth teaspoonful of salt, and pour one tablespoonful and a half of the mixture over the dams in each tomato. Omit the catsup if desired. OYSTERS ON THE DEEP SHELL Open the chilled oysters as directed on page 96. Serve from the deeper half of the shell, on a bed of broken ice, on a plate. From three to six oysters, no more than can be well arranged on the ice, make one service. Pass with these salt and pepper and small thin browu-bread-and-butter sandwiches. Pass a lengthwise quarter of lemon with the oysters on each plate. 98 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BROILED OYSTERS WITH CELERY Marinate two dozen large oysters, cleaned and dried; drain, then dip in melted butter and very fine soft bread crumbs; broil in a well-oiled oyster broiler until ihe gills curl, then lay on slices of buttered toast and pour over a cup of hot cream, or of thin white sauce made of milk. Sprinkle the whole with fine-chopped celery and garnish the dish with bits of curled celery. If celery be not at hand, season the cream or sauce with celery salt or pepper. OYSTERS IN CREAM SAUCE I pint of solid oysters i pint of cream, or f pint of milk. (about 30 oysters). Salt and pepper, i cup of butter. J cup or more of mushrooms, i cup of flour. I tablespoonf ul of fine-choppedparsley. Scald the oysters in their own liquor. Make the sauce in the usual manner and to this add the oysters, strained from their liquor. If a full pint of milk be used, add an extra level tablespoonful of flour to ^at stipulated for the sauce. Cream makes proportion- ately a thicker sauce than milk. Oysters thus prepared may be served in Swedish timbale cases, patty shells, bread croustades, green peppers, vol-au-vent, or on toast. If canned button mush- rooms be used, cut in halves and reheat in the sauce with the oysters. If the mushrooms be fresh, prepare as usual: rub over with the cut side of a lemon, simmer in water until tender, then add with the oysters. OYSTER STEW I quart of oysters. | teaspoonful of salt. I quart of milk. i teaspoonful of white pepper. i cup of butter. | cup of cracker crumbs. Pour half cup of cold water over the oysters; examine, one by one, and remove any bits of shell, but retain all the oyster crabs, which are considered a delicacy. Heat the liquor to the boiling point, strain through ■&. piece of cheese cloth and return to the fire with the oysters; let heat quickly. When the oysters look plump and the gills begin to ciurl, skim out and put into the tiureen with the scalded milk, butter, pepper, salt, and cracker crumbs; strain in the oyster liquor, mix thoroughly and serve with a plate of crackers. OYSTERS 99 OYSTERS IN BROWN SAUCE I slice of onion. i cup of oyster liquor. 4 slices of carrot. i cup of cream. I sprig of parsley. J teaspoonful of salt. i cup of butter. A few grains of cayenne. 5 cup of flour. 1 solid pint of oysters. Scald the oysters in their own liquor and drain. Saut6 the ion, carrot, and parsley in the butter, add the flour with the salt d cayenne and cook until well browned. Add the oyster liquor iduaily; strain over the oysters, reheat, and, just before serving, d the cream, scalded. The yolks of one or two eggs may be added, io a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Mushrooms are often cooked th the oysters. Serve as oysters in cream sauce. OYSTERS AND MACARONI I pint of oysters. Salt and paprika. I cup of macaroni broken in inch i cup of butter. pieces. J cup of cracker crumbs. I cup of grated cheese. i cup of melted butter. Cook the macaroni until tender (see page 304); drain and rinse th cold water. Put a layer in the bottom of a buttered gratin 3h, cover with oysters, and sprinkle with cheese, salt and paprika; Id half the butter in bits, and cover with a layer of macaroni, then th oysters, and seasoning. Cover the top witii the cracker crumbs ixed with the melted butter. Bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven, rve at once. OYSTERS AND MACARONI, NO. 2 I pint of oysters, parboiled. Salt and paprika. I cup of macaroni broken in inch i^ cups of white sauce, pieces. I cup cracker crumbs. i cup of grated cheese. i cup of melted butter. Drain the oysters carefully after parboiling; add to the dish, ernately, with the macaroni, covering with sauce and cheese, sish the tops with the cracker crumbs stirred into the melted tter. Cook ten minutes in a hot oven. loo PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING OYSTER PIE Cover an inverted shallow baking dish, holding about a quart, with chilled puff-paste rolled to the thickness of one fourth an inch; prick with a fork, that it may rise evenly in baking. Slide on to a baking-sheet, to keep the edge from the bottom of the oven, and bake about twenty-five minutes. (See Puff-paste, page 445.) Cut out a cover one fourth an inch thick, a little larger than the top of the dish, as it will shrink in baking, prick and ornament with pieces of pastry if desired. Place on a baking-sheet, chill, then bake about twenty-five minutes. Remove the paste from the baking dish and set in place on the serving dish. Fill with a quart of drained oysters that have been cut in halves, stirred into a cup of hot cream sauce and simmered five minutes, or until thoroughly heated, but no longer. The sauce will not season the oysters suf- ficiently, and additional salt and pepper will be needed. SCALLOPED OYSTERS I quart of oysters. i cup of bread crumbs. } cup of melted butter. (centre of the loaf). I cup o£ cracker crumbs. Salt and pepper. Stir the bread and cracker crumbs into the butter; sprinkle the bottom of a buttered baking dish with crumbs, then place on these a layer of cleaned oysters and dust with salt and pepper. Add, alternately, two more layers of oysters and crumbs and bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes. Garnish with toast points and parsley, and serve at once. Select a shallow dish for scal- loped oysters, as long cooking injures an oyster. OYSTERS BOILED WITH BACON Broil six slices of bacon by letting stand in a double-broiler over a dripping pan in a hot oven. Wash and dry a pint of large oysters; dip, one by one, in the bacon fat and arrange in an oyster broiler; cook over glowing coals, first on one side and then on tie other, until they look plump and the edges are curled. Serve on slices of toast or fried croutons. Garnish with the bacon. BROILED OYSTERS WITH MAfTRE D'H6tEL BUTTER Drain large oysters, wipe dry, season with salt and pepper, dip iQ oil or melted butter, and arrange in an oyster broiler; broil over FISH A LA CREME IN PAPER CASES. (See page 94 ) Garnish: Sifted yolk of egg, with ring of white above, holding a celery leaf. HADDOCIs;, STUFFED AND BAKED (See page 30.) HALIBUT STEAKS, BAKED WITH OYSTERS, POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL. (See page 83.) ^^^^= ■v^ ^^^^^^H^H bBL."''' '^^^I^H ^^^^^Hk "^ ^^^^^^^^H ^^^KUT 4^''-'«'> ^^^^^^^I^^^^^H ^^^r'^^f^^' '*^ ^^^^^^^HH W^'^v^^^ Bf •"■ ^^^^^^^^i._ ! ^^^^■^v^ U^ ^B fe- WB^ ^^.$- m >.- WtkiS:'''p ^^ w'% H ^Hf '' ''' fp hh \ '^fSF -) o Q 19 ^ 15 O o p a< FRIED SCALLOPS loi [uick fire without coloring; dress on pieces of toast, and pour over litre d'hdtel butter, partly melted. FRIED OYSTERS Wash and drain the oysters and dry between two cloths; let ,nd in a marinade ten or more minutes, then drain again. Roll cracker crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper. For one pint oysters beat two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of cold water til the whites and yolks are well mixed; dip the oysters, crumbed, ;o the egg and roll again in crumbs. Fry one minute in deep fat, ry hot. Use a frying basket and cook only five or six oysters a time. Drain on soft paper and serve at once. Serve at the ne time pickles, olives, celery salad, or cold slaw. When served a luncheon dish the centre may be removed from a small head of bbage; let chill and fill the open space with crisp cabbage cut fine d mixed with dressing. Let the cabbage rest on a folded napkin d around the cabbage on the napkin arrange the fried oysters. OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER Wash and dry the oysters, which should be of large size. Dip batter (each oyster needs be perfectly covered with the batter) d fry in deep fat; drain and serve on a folded napkin; garnish th lemon and parsley. Let the same articles accompany the ih as are served with oysters, crumbed and fried. BATTER FOR OYSTERS 2 eggs. A few grains of paprika. } teaspoonful of salt. i cup of flour. J to I cup of strained oyster liquid.. Let the batter stand an hour or two before using. FRIED SCALLOPS Cover the scallops with boiling water and keep hot five minutes thout boiling; drain and dry on a cloth. Let stand in a marinade e hour, drain and dry a second time, roll in seasoned cracker dust, ) in egg and roll again in cracker dust; fry in deep fat until well ored, dress on a folded napkin and serve v/ith quartered lemons, with tomato sauce. 102 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING SCALLOPS ON THE DEEP SHELL Cut the scallops into squares; put these back into the deep shells, season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with fine-chopped fresh mushrooms, parsley, and buttered bread crumbs. Cook in a hot oven ten or twelve minutes; remove and squeeze upon each a little lemon juice and dress on a folded napkin, garnishing with a few sprigs of parsley. SCALLOPS IN SHELLS Parboil the scallops five minutes; drain and cut in cubes; measure the cubes, and for a pint saute a sKce of onion in one fourth a cup of butter; add half a cup of mushrooms peeled and cut in squares and let cook five minutes; add one fourth a cup of flour, and, when blended with the butter, add the scallops and a cup, each, of scallop broth and cream; let boil once, then simmer six or eight minutes; add a dash of paprika and a teaspoonful of butter. Put the mixture into buttered scallop shells, cover with cracker crumbs, mixed with butter, and let brown in the oven. CLAM BROTH AND CLAMS IN CREAM SAUCE Scrub and rinse half a peck of clams; put over the fire in a cup of cold water. Cover and steam until the shells are well opened. When the clams are cooked, drain off the broth, strain, season with pepper, reheat without boiling and serve at once. A spoonful of whipped cream is often served on the top of a cup of clam broth, but tie broth needs be very hot or the cream will cool it too much. Serve the steamed clams, after removing the hard parts in a cream sauce. Or these may be chopped and added with the soft portions to the sauce. Use rich milk or cream in making the sauce. A scant cup of sauce will suffice for a cup of clams. Serve on toast. Garnish with toast points. CRUSTACEANS LOBSTERS The American lobster is found in the northern sections of both the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. On the Pacific coast the lobster is large and without claws. The natural color of the lobster is usually a dark bluish green and mottled, but in sandy regions the LOBSTERS 103 ; slightly reddish. When boiled the color changes to red. bsters are caught in nets or traps and shipped to market alive. March the lobster begins his yearly migration from deep water the coast; in autumn those that are left to tell the tale of their inderings return again to the deep sea. During April and May e largest numbers are in motion. Then the fish markets are splendent with the vivid color of the lobster's shell, and the jacent country for miles around is resonant with the "buy-lobe, y-lobe" of the hawkers of this popular crustacean. That the jster's annual trip is accomplished in safety but a few times is tested by the average size of these creatures when they are ught. They have been known to reach a weight of fifteen poimds it a five-povmd lobster is rarely seen. As the lobster grows at the te of about a quarter of a pound a year, it is a simple matter to termine his age, and the number of times he has missed the mpting bait in the lobster trap. Probably the largest lobster ever seen was captured off Yar- Duth, Nova Scotia, in 1898, and sent to Boston. It measured arly seven feet from tip to tip of its colossal body claws; the body self was three feet long. The legs were about an inch in diameter. b.e average weight of a lobster to-day is about two poimds. As a general thing lobsters are boiled when taken from the trap; it few are seen in the markets alive. Near the coast, on order, luaUy for the hotel trade, the flesh is removed from the shell ithout preliminary boiling. Such flesh is served after one cook- s', a gain on the side of digestibihty. TO DETERMINE THE FRESHNESS OF LOBSTERS A lobster heavy in proportion to its size is the choice; such a bster is either plump and in good condition, or fresh-boiled and avy from lack of evaporation. A lobster in good condition len boiled has its tail curled, and when this is straightened out will fly back into place. TO BOIL A LOBSTER Sometimes a lobster is brought from market alive; it should be oked at once. Have in the kettle enough boiling water to cover e lobster. Take by the back and put into the water head first d as quickly as possible. Add a tablespoonful of salt and let a five minutes, then simmer half an hour. I04 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING TO DRESS A LOBSTER Pull off the two large claws, and the four pairs of small claws; break apart the tail and the body; cut the bony membrane on the inside of the tail shell with a pair of scissors, or sardine can-opener, then spread the tail slightly and pdl out the flesh in a single piece; open this in the crease on the under side and carefully remove the intestinal vein, which runs the entire length. This vein is always visible, but it differs in color, bemg white, or red, or sometimes, from the contents, black. Tal^e the body from the shell, leaving within the shell the stomach or "lady." If the coral and green substance remain in the shell, shake them out and set aside for use. Pull off the woolly gills found on the body, then break open the body shell and remove all the bits of flesh found between the bones; this is the sweetest and tenderest portion of the lobster. Disjoint the large claws and cut the sheU, if thin, to remove the flesh as whole as possible. Take the meat from the small clawi with a skewer and leave these whole for garnishing. CRABS The species of crabs are very nimierous. The blue crab is the one used as an article of food. On the Atlantic and Gulf coasts it is found in estuaries and brackish water. Other species of the same genus extensively used for food are found in the West Indies and on both coasts of Central and South America. The common, or rock crabs, a large, mottled, reddish brown species, are sometimes sold in the markets of New England; similar species are common in San Francisco, and still another species is used on the European coast. Upon the coast of the Southern States a very large species, five or six inches across, is caught in great numbers for the market. On account of the scarcity of beef and mutton in the South, crabs are eaten there more largely than in the North. Crabs, as well as lobsters, shed their shells. Soft-shell crabs, or crabs upon which the new shell has not hardened, are considered a great delicacy. Oyster crabs found inside the shell of the oyster are another delicacy. As they are not found in large numbers and are very tiny, they are used in few dishes other than as a garnish. SHRIMPS In this country shrimps are not in general use as an artide of food, but they are in common use in England and France. The LOBSTER RECIPES lOg best shrimps in this country are found in Southern waters; these are from an inch and a half to two inches and a half long. Shrimps are of a grayish color, turning to pink in boiling. In the Northern markets shrimps are seen only after boiling. They are seasonable from May to October. Canned shrimps are more generally used than any other canned shell-fish. Shrimps are used in salads or sauces; they are also served, heated in a cream sauce, from the chafing dish. To prepare for cooking, pick off the shell and take out the intestinal vein. CURRY OF LOBSTER IN RICE CUPS Press boiled rice into cups. (See Rice Croustades, page 27.) When cold turn from the cups and remove the centres; brush over with yolk of egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in deep fat; drain on soft paper, then fill with the following crnry: Cook half an onion in butter; add one fourth a cup of flour, one tablespoonful of curry powder and one pint of cocoanut-milk. Strain over one pint of lobster, cut in cubes and seasoned with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and reheat before serving. STUFFED LOBSTER, NARRAQANSETT PIER STYLE 2 pounds of lobster. J cup of cream. 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped | cup of chicken stock. shallots. Yolks of two eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. i tablespoonful of lemon juice. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. i tablespoonful of chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of salt. J cup of bread crumbs, i teaspoonful of paprika. J cup of cracker crumbs. A grating of nutmeg. J cup of melted butter. Saut^ the shallot (mild onion) in the butter without browning it; add the flour and seasonings, the cream pjid chicken stock (or stock made from the body bones of the lobster). When this bofls, add the bread crumbs (soft, not dry crumbs)., the meat from the lobster, chopped fine, and the parsley. When this is heated, stir in the beaten yolks of the eggs and the lemon juice. Place the cleaned shell of the lobster on the serving-dish, letting it take the natural shape of the lobster, pour the mixture into it and cover with the cracker crumbs, mixed with the melted butter. Set in the oven to brown the crumbs. Garnish the dish with parsley, fans from the tail of the lobster, and the feelers. io6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING LOBSTER CUTLETS 1 cup of thick white sauce or i cup milk or stock. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. i egg. J cup of flour. I teaspoonful of lemon juice, i teaspoonful of salt. 2 cups of chopped lobster meat. i teaspoonful of paprika. Add the beaten egg to the sauce, the lobster meat and the lemon juice, turn into a shallow dish, cover and set aside to become thoroughly cold. Shape into cutlets, egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat; drain on soft paper in the warming oven. Insert the end of a small claw in the small end of each cutlet. Arrange the cutlets in a circle, overlapping one another, arovmd the large daws, standing in a rice croustade, or in a nest of parsley. LOBSTER CUTLET NO. 2 8 ounces of lobster meat (meat from a two-pound lobster). f cup of panada. 5 eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter i tablespoonful tozaato sauce. Salt and paprika. i tablespoonful of double cream. Pound the lobster meat to a smooth pulp; add the panada (see Entrees, page 234) and butter and pound again; add lie other in- gredients, save the cream, and when well blended pass through the purfe sieve and mix in the cream. Butter cutlet moulds, sprinkle with sifted coral, cooked yolk of egg, or chopped parsley, then carefully fill the moulds with the mixture. With a wet knife smooth the top of the mixture. Set the moulds on a folded paper and surround with hot water; let poach in a moderate oven about fifteen minutes. Serve around a rice socle. Pass with the cutlets Hollandaise, or other fish sauce. LOBSTER A LA RUSHMORE Cook a shallot and four mushroom stalks, chopped fine, in a tablespoonful of butter. Add salt and pepper, the meat of a two- pound lobster, cut in cubes, and about a cup of hot tomato sauce; let stand over hot water until thoroughly heated, then turn into the clean lobster shell. Into the top of the mixture press four mushroom caps, peeled and saut6d five minutes in butter; pour a little tomato sauce over these and set in the oven about ten min- utes. Serve on a folded napkin, or surround with parsley. CRAB RECIPES 107 LOBSTER IN CREAM SAUCE obster meat, cut in dice, may be mixed with an equal bulk of m sauce and served in patty cases, shells, etc. In making the ;e, chicken, £sh, or lobster stock and milk, or cream, may be I, either alone, or half and half. BROILED LIVE LOBSTER ^ith a strong, pointed knife make a deep, sharp cut at the ith, then draw tie knife firmly but quickly through the body and re length of tail; open the lobster and take out the stomach, or T, and the intestinal vein, which runs from the stomach to the eme tip of the tail. Pull off the small daws, wash carefully, spread in a well-oiled broiler. Broil over clear coals about ten utes on the flesh side, basting once with melted butter; turn and 1 a few minutes less on the shell side; crack open the large re and serve at once on a hot serving-dish. Pass at the same i melted butter. If more convenient, the lobster may be ted in a hot oven about fifteen minutes. Serve half a lobster, I whole one of small size, as a portion. Spread with butter )re baking. CRAB RECIPES SOFT-SHELLED CRABS, BROILED Tess carefully, season with salt, baste with oil or melted butter broil over a slow fire; dress 6n a hot dish and cover with ravi- e butter. SOFT-SHELLED CRABS, FRIED ip the dried crabs into milk, then roll in flour and fry to a en color in deep fat; dress on a folded napkin. SOFT-SHELLED CRABS SAUTE'D oil the ctabs in flour and saute in hot clarified butter; dress on t dish; add a little lemon juice to the butter in which the crabs ! cooked, strain this over the crabs and sprinkle the top with chopped parsley. io8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING FROQS, TURTLE, AND TERRAPIN FROGS' LEGS In the animal kingdom frogs, turtle, and terrapin rank a scale lower than shell-fish. Of frogs, only the hind legs are eaten. To prepare these for cooking, the skin is removed, after which the legs are parboiled five or six minutes in boiling salted, acidulated water. They are quite frequently served in a rich sauce with puff-paste, either as a filling for a vol-au-vent, or simply surrounded with diamonds or triangles of the cooked paste. TURTLE The name turtle is popularly (not scientifically) applied to certain marine reptiles, which, as does also the tortoise, resemble in many respects aquatic birds. Those species that are exclusively herbiv- orous are wholesome as food and much sought after by epicures. The eggs are considered a great delicacy. The calipee, or under part of the breast and abdomen, the liver, and fat are the choicest parts. The green turtle, so named from the delicate green color of its fat, is found in the tropical waters of America and near the West Indies. It feeds on succulent turtle grass and supplies food to thousands in the West Indies. This turtle is often five or six feet in length and weighs five or six hundred pounds. Canned clear green turtle meat makes a choice soup. Dried green turtle from South America is also used in soups. Half a pound of turtle will make soup for eight persons. TERRAPIN Diamond-back or salt-water terrapin are found all along the Atlantic coast, but more especially in Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries. Other species are numerous from Massachusetts to Texas, For those who buy and sell terrapin the standard length is six inches. They are captured during their season of hiber- nation, that is from November to May; they are at their best from December to April. The six-inch terrapin cost $1.25 per pound. Those of larger size are sold at a higher rate. Terrapin is always cooked alive by plunging, after being carefully washed, head first into boiling water. Remove from the water in about five minutes, or as soon as the thin white skin can be removed from the head o l-> o T1 H n U) « f, nl Pi w o li( « f3 H rt > Hi < bn m a J r, u frt o>< ^ U-r <: ^ J cn 3 a I -s .s ^ '3 « CO I ro ^ »0^0 «^00 O^ O Hlodquarter Forequarter BEEF 113 ogue, fresh or corned Boiled, braised. art Stuffed and braised. ^er Boiled or fried. dneys Stewed (ragout) . il Soup, braised. ipe Broiled, fried in batter, etc. Beef dressed for the market is divided at the backbone into two rts, each of which is termed a side of beef. The weight of a side from three to five himdred pounds. Of this much less than one indred poimds is tender meat, suitable for quick cooking, as asted, or broiled meat. But while meat thus cooked is better iished and, oftentimes better adapted to our physical condition, is less nutritious than those parts that are nourished by muscular e and which, in consequence, secrete juice and flavor. For these ts long, slow cooking, with moisture, is needed to soften the llagen, so that the little bimdles of fibres may fall apart easily, len they come in contact with the teeth. The lean in beef of good quality is of a dark purple cdor when st cut, but soon it turns to bright red. It should be coated and, pecially the tenderer cuts, well mottled with fat. The fat in sef of prime quality is firm, of a light yellowish color, and crumbles .sily. What is fat in a good quality of meat is water in a less de- rable article. The neck and forequarter of an ox or sheep con- in more nutritive value than the juiceless tenderloin and other ore tender and more expensive cuts. Broth from the neck of utton has more flavor than that made of a cut from the ribs. So, 30, in making chicken broth the first choice would be the legs and ings of the fowl. in all markets a side of beef is divided into hind and forequarter, it the point of this division, as also for other smaller divisions, tries in different sections of the country, and at different markets the same section. In New York Gity markets the division into nd and forequarter is so made that the thirteen ribs are included the forequarter. In Boston markets three ribs are included the hindquarter. In a few Boston markets the rump, separated jm the loin, is cut into roasts and stews, the upper part, or back the rump, giving a large and choice roast. This custom is not neral and is usually frowned upon by marketmen who cater family trade. When meat comes from the market, remove it at ice from the paper in which it is wrapped, wipe the outside with damp doth — do not wash — cut off any imsightly bits and set 114 MtAenCAL COOONG AND SERVING aade In a cool place — but not directly upon the ice — until the time for cooking. ROAST BEEF The choicest pieces for roasting are from the rump and the loin. The first five ribs in the forequarter are also roasted; the first two ribs make a very good roast, particularly when the beef is of first quality. The chuck ribs are often roasted, but unless the meat is much better than the average, it is likely to prove imsatisfactory. The tenderloin is often removed whole (or divided, when the rump is separated from the loin) and cooked as a roast. Being dry and without flavor, it is usually larded and served with a rich, high- flavored sauce. Let the meat to be roasted, skewered, or tied in a compact form, rest on a rack in a dripping pan skin side down; dredge with flour and sear over the outside in a hot oven, then add salt and pepper and drippings and cook at a low temperature until done, basting — i.e., dipping the melted fat in the pan over the meat, every ten minutes. After a time turn the roast, to brown the skin side. When properly cooked the outside fat is crisp and brown, the lean beneath is browned to the depth of one fourth an inch and the whole interior is evenly red and juicy. Ribs are roasted just as they are cut, as a "standing roast," or boned and rolled. To serve a standing roast, let it rest on the ribs and cut in slices parallel to the bones. Before cooking tie a boned roast, rolled into cylindrical shape, securely. To serve, remove the cords (skewers may be used), place the meat, resting on one of the ends, on the serving dish, and cut in horizontal slides. Serve Franconia potatoes around the roast. RIB ROAST, FOREQUARTER Only the first five ribs of the forequarter are suitable for roast- ing. Remove the " eye " of tender meat, separate the outside layer of fat from the strip of tough lean meat underneath, and tie the fat about the eye securely, passing the cord around several times. Cook and serve as a rolled roast. Pass the tough meat through a chopper several times, season, and shape into. TENDERLOIN CUTLETS Season the chopped meat with salt, two or three drops of tabasco sauce, onion juice, and a little Worcesterahire sauce. Form int« BRAISED BEEF 115 cutlet shapes about half an inch thick; egg-aQd-bread-cnunb and fry in deep fat about five minutes; set the fat in a cooler place sifter the cutlets are immersed, to avoid coloring too brown before the meat is cooked. Serve around a support, or a socle, of rice or hominy. Surroimd with slices of potato, cut lattice or other fashion and fried in deep fat. YORKSHIRE PUDDING li cups of pastry flour. Scant half a teaspoonful of salt. 1} cups of milk. 3 eggs. Sift together the flour and salt; add the milk, gradually, so as to form a smooth batter, then add the eggs, beaten until thick and light; turn into a very hot gem pan, the inside of which has been brushed over with roast-beef dripping; when well risen in the pan baste with the hot roast-beef dripping. Bake about twenty min- utes. Serve aroimd the roast. Set the gem pan into a dnpping pan before basting. The pudding may also be baked in a snull dripping pan and cut into squares for serving. BEEP A LA MODE With strips of doth bind six or eight pounds of beef from the top of the round into circular shape. Make incisions with a sharp kmfe, and into these press leirdoons of salt pork half an inch thick; make other incisions, and press into these bread stuffing. Heat drippings or trimmings from the salt pork, and in this brown the outside of the meat; add a sprig or two of parsley, two onions and half a carrot, sliced, then half cover with boiluig water and let sinmier until tender. Five to seven hours will be required; re- plenishing with hot water as needed. An iron pot with t^t- fitting cover is the best utensil to use for this dish. If the meat rests on a trivet, turning may be avoided. Garnish with boiled onions, seasoned, basted with butter and browned in a hot oven. Skim the fat from the liquid in which the meat was cooked; thicken the latter with flour and water, strain and serve as a sauce with the meat. If there be considerable liquid, thicken a part, and set the meat aside to cool in the rest. BRAISED BEEP In the absence of a braising pan a large earthenware casserole u desirable. Brown five or six pounds 01 beef from the rump or ' ii6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING round, on all sides in a hot frying-pan (using fat from ihe top of the soup kettle, or that tried out from salt pork). Sprinkle half a cup, each, of small cubes of salt pork, carrot, onion, and celery into the casserole and place the meat on these; add about a pint of stock or water, a bay leaf, a piece of red pepper or six peppercorns, and three cloves tied in a sprig of parsley. Spread a few more cubes of vegetables on the top of the meat and add half a teaspoon- ful of salt; if water be used, with seasoned stock it may be omitted. Put on the cover, bind a strip of cloth spread with flour paste over the joining of the dish and cover and let cook in a very slow oven about six hours. Thoroughly rinse the pan, in which the meat was browned, with the stock or water, to retain the browned juices from the meat. The meat may be dredged with flour while brown- ing, or a brown sauce may supplant the stock or water. Strain the sauce and serve poured over the meat, or in a sauce boat. Thicken with roux, if not already of the desired consistency. This kind of a casserole is not intended for table use. For a change serve some of the vegetables with the meat. When a dish is used from which the cover can be easily taken, vegetables, cut in match-like pieces, or fanciful shapes and blanched, may be added to the dish just in time to become tender. Serve these around the meat; celery, carrot, and, occasionally, turnip are suitable for this pur- pose. A cup of tomato piuree, added when the meat is half cooked, is often an improvement; so also is a little grated horseradish. FILLET OF BEEF ROASTED The fillet of beef is taken from underneath that part of the back- bone, which is included in the lower part of the sirloin and die rump. Ordinarily it is cut as a part of the steaks or roasts in these joints, and when removed whole for a fillet these steais or roasts are less desirable by so much. The part imder the rimip is called the short fillet, that under the sirloin the long fillet. When the whole fillet is needed it should be cut out before the division into loin and rump has been made. If this is not done, the two pieces need be skewered together. The whole fillet sells for seventy-five cents to one dollar per poimd; the short fillet (from the rump) at about thirty-five cents per pound. The rump steaks are large, and the loss of the tenderloin is not so apparent as it is in the smaller sirloin steaks, hence the difference in price. The nunp fillet weighs about two pounds and a half and is an economical cut for occa- sional use. In dressing a fillet the sinewy covering on one side and BEEF STEW 117 e superfluous fat on the other are removed. It is then trimmed to shape and the thin end folded under. This leaves nothing but le-grained, tender meat. Being destitute of flavor, this must be ded in the cooking. Lard the whole upper surface with salt rk, dredge with flour and bake half an hour. Baste frequently th fat from the stock kettle, or salt pork, the first, on account the flavor of the vegetables used in the stock being preferred, ason with salt and pepper when half cooked. The oven needs very hot at first. Serve with a brown mushroom sauce (see ge 207). The sauce may be poured upon the serving-dish and e fillet placed in the centre with the mushrooms around it. Or e fillet may be surrounded with potato, mashed and pressed rough a ricer, and the sauce served from the sauce boat. To rve, cut obliquely rather than straight across. Serve a little avy and three or four mushrooms (canned button) in the centre each slice. For a change, it may be served with Soubise, Ber- ise, or tomato sauce. Mushrooms may be added to the tomato uce. A fillet is also particularly good served surrounded with matoes stuffed with mushrooms (see page 286). Serve brown uce, made from the liqiiid in both pans, brown roux and rich own stock as needed. CANNELON OF BEEF 2 pounds of lean beef from top of i teaspoonful of onion juice. roimd. I teaspoonful of mace. I tablespoonful of fine-chopped i egg, beaten. parsley. i cup of soft bread crumbs. I teaspoonful of salt. J teaspoonful of pepper. Pass the meat through a chopper several times; add the Other in- edients, the egg, beaten, and the bread crumbs, wrung dry, after inding some time in cold water; mix thoroughly and shape in a U. Bake on a rack in a small pan between thirty and forty min- es. Baste frequently with fat from salt pork and hot water, rve with tomato, or mushroom sauce, or with macaroni a la ilienne. Saut6d mushroom trimmings, added to the caimelon th the other seasonings, give a pleasing variety to this dish. BEEF STEW The best cuts for a stew are those containing both lean and fat jat and some bone. The flaak end of a large roast, a few pounas ii8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING from the middle of the hind shin, or a cut from the chuck ribs are all good selections. Remove such portion of the meat from the bones as is convenient and cut into small pieces. Saw the bones into pieces of convenient size for the saucepan. These are to be removed before the dish is served. Wipe the bones carefully to avoid any bits of bone. Saut6 the meat — aU, or a part — in the marrow from the shin-bone, or, lacking this, in drippings, or salt pork fat. For two pounds of meat saut6 to a delicate color one onion, cut in rings, one carrot (small) cut in cubes, and a small white turnip, also cut small; add three pints of light stock or water, and half a red or green pepper; let simmer very gently three hours or more, until the meat is tender; remove the bones, skim ofE the fat and add about two pounds of sliced potatoes parboiled five minutes and drained. Season with salt. When the potatoes are tender, remove the meat to the centre of the serving dish; surround with the potatoes and broth. The meat while browning may be dredged with flour, thus giving a thicker broth. Half a cup of blanched rice may be added ten minutes before the potatoes. A pint of tomato puree (cooked tomatoes strained to exclude skin and seeds) may take the place. of a part of the stock or water. In making a stew from the remnants of roast beef, prepare a stock of the bones, browned fat, and unsightly portions of the roast; strain, remove the fat, and use with the vegetables bits of good meat and any platter gravy, or brown sauce remaining. The bones are in- cluded for the sake of the juices and flavor of flesh that may adhere to them. CORNED BEEF The "fancy brisket" is considered the best cut of corned beef. It may be known by the "selvage" on the lower side and the ab- sence of bones. It is dose, fine-grained meat and requires longer cooking than other pieces that are corned. The second cut of the rattle rand (see chart, page 112) contains three distinct layers of lean and fat of salted beef. To cook, rinse the meat in cold water, tie, or skewer in shape, and put over the fire, covered with cold water; heat slowly to the boiling point. After boiling five minutes remove the scum and let simmer gently imtil tender. Five to eight hours will be required. Remove from the water, cover and keep hot, while pared potatoes and turnips are cooked in the liquid. Cook other vegetables, as beets, cabbage, and carrots, apart. If the meat it to be served cold, let partly cool in the liquid in which it is cooked. In this case do not cook the vegetables in the meat liquor. BEEFSTEAK up BOILED BEEF TONGUE Cook a corned or pickled tongue in the same manner as cx>nied ef. Let cook untU very tender, four hours or more, then par- tly cool in the liquid, but remove to peel off the skin before the igue becomes cold. Serve cold, sliced thin. Garnish with a icedoine of vegetables, as peas, asparagus tips, carrots, and tur- 3S, cut in cubes and moulded in aspic jelly. Pass mayonnaise or irtare sauce, at the same time, or use jelly and mayonnaise in )ulding. (See also Tongue Moulded in Aspic Jelly and Tongue Chaudfroid Sauce on pages 252 and 255). Salt the boiling water which a fresh tongue is put to cook; it will cook in about two urs; vegetables added to the water are an improvement, the uid may be used for soup. A boiled tongue, fresh or salt, is :en glazed and served on a bed of spinach k la cr^me, or of plain jked spinach; with the latter serve sauce piquante. A fresh ague may be braised (see page 16). BEEFSTEAK DESCMPTION AND NAMES GIVEN TO BEEFSTEAK Steaks are cut from the round — those from the top, known by s thick ridge of fat, being the best round steaks — from the loin, d the rump. Steaks from the loin nearest the forequarter are own as short, club, or Delmonico steaks; they are without tender- n, and the ffank end is small; three of them contain a rib bone :h. Steaks from the rump end of the sirloin are called hip or t-bone sirloin; they contain quite a large flat bone, flank and iderloin. Steaks between the short and hip bone sirloin contain ; best part of the tenderloin. These are lie true sirloin steaks. ey are often called tenderloin, and, sometimes, porterhouse aks. A steak may be flattened, or batted into uniform thickness Ji a cleaver, or cutlet bat, wet in cold water. If tough, brush ;r with a mixture of one tablespoonful of vinegar to two table- )onfuls of oil. The acetic acid in the vinegar softens the collagen i the oil, by excluding the air, keeps the meat in good condition Ue bacteria are softening the collagen in the fibres. After being IS treated a steak may stand several hours, or by repeating the COBS, several days, according to the season, «te. 120 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING TO BROIL A STEAK Wipe, trim off superfluous fat and flank end, bat into shape; heat the broiler very hot — a heavy wire double-broiler is the most con- venient — rub it over with a bit of the fat and put in the meat with the ridge of fat toward the handle of the broiler, to insure the bast- ing of the meat during cooking. At first hold the broiler close to the dear coals, count ten and turn; count ten again, then, the juices being imprisoned by the strong heat, remove to a greater distance from the fire, and continue cooking and turning the meat every ten seconds, to insure slow and even cooking. Have the dampers in the range open as in building the fire, to carry the smoke from the fat up the chimney. Steaks may be cut an inch thick, but are better an inch and a half thick. From five to eight minutes' cooking is needed for the first, and eight to ten minutes for the latter. When properly broiled the steak is puffy from the expansion of the collagen and the moisture imprisoned within; it is well browned to the depth of one eighth an inch, juicy and uniformly red in apperance within. If the length of cooking and the general appearance of the steak do not indicate its condition to satisfaction, place the broiler over a dripping pan and make a small clean cut at one end. This will indicate its condition conclusively. When done, remove to the serving-dish, which should be warm; sprinkle with salt (omit pepper, unless without doubt it be agreeable to all), spread with cold maitre d'h6tel butter (see page 219) the heat of the steak should melt the butter — or with hot Bernaise sauce. Mush- room or tomato sauce is also admissible. Garnish with slices of lemon, with water-cress, pepper-grass, or parsley. Serve with potatoes in some form. French fried, Saratoga, mashed, baked (white or sweet), and escalloped potatoes, are all in favor with steak. In Virginia a steak spread with maitre d'h6tel butter is accompanied by Baltimore samp, in cream sauce, with parsley. HAMBURG STEAK I pound of round steak. ' | teaspoonful of salt. I tablespoonful of onion juice or i egg and a dash of pepper, if de- grated onion. sired. Chop the steak very fine and mix thoroughly with the other ingredients; the egg may be used, or not, it helps hold the meat together during cooking. With hands, or knife and spoon, wet in CHATEAUBRIAND A LA PIERCE 121 Id water, shape the mixture into a steak, or small flat cakes, ave the edges of the meat of the same thickness as the centre. :oiI in a deep double-broiler with wires running at right angles, saut6 first one side and then on the other in hot drippings or fat 3m salt pork. Serve with brown or tomato sauce. UNQARIAN STEW. (MRS. T. B. WHEELOCK, MINNESOTA) 2 pounds of lean beef, shoulder | cup of cream, sweet or sour. steak. I teaspoonful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. J teaspoonful of caraway seed. 2 tablespoonfuls of fine-cut onion. | teaspoonful of sweet marjoram. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter or suet. Paprika to taste. I level tablespoonful of flour. i cup of hot water or broth. Cut the meat in half-inch cubes, put in a granite dish (not tin), Id vinegar and salt, and let stand an hour or two. Heat the itter in a porcelain-lined iron kettle; add the onions and cook itil tender, not brown; add meat and spices, and cover closely 1 the steam will not escape; let simmer slowly until the moisture absorbed and brown, stirring often. Add half a cup of hot broth' • water and the flour mixed in cold water. Just before serving, id the cream and shake in paprika to taste. CHATEAUBRIAND A LA PIERCE Chateaubriand, so called from a certain famous French gourmet, a thick steak cut from the centre of a fillet of beef. When a rge steak is desired, two steaks are cut from the centre of a fillet, it are not quite severed and when trimmed and spread open they )pear like one steak. Often a tenderloin steak, cut between two id three inches thick and skewered into a round shape, is used, amove fat, flank end and bone, and press the meat into a circular ape; flatten with a wet bat or cleaver and broil in a well-oiled oiler from eighteen to twenty-five minutes, turning every ten oonds. Turn about a cup and a half of brown mushroom sauce )on a hot serving dish and dispose the steak upon it and the mush- oms above the steak. Surroimd with stuffed tomatoes and een peppers. A Chateaubriand is often spread simply with litre d'h6tel butter. When cut thicker than three inches it is tter roasted, or braised. It may be roasted, then scored with the res of a very hot broiler. las PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING FLANK STEAK Embedded in fat, below the sirloin, is a thin strip of lean meat weighing about two pounds, called flank steak. This sells for about twenty-five cents. It is comparatively juicy, but lacking in flavor. The dealer pulls off the fat and thin slun underneath, and then scores the outside upon both sides diagonally. Broil about six minutes. Serve with a brown, or tomato sauce. This steak is often spread with highly seasoned bread dressing, then rolled up tightly and braised with vegetables and a small quantity of liquid in a casserole. TO PICKLE TRIPE FOR OCCASIONAL USE Wash tripe from creature freshly dressed, changing the water several times; dust the dark inside coat with quicklime and scrape at once. Cut in four pieces, dip in boiling water, and scrape until perfectly white. Wash in water slightly salted; then soak five or six days in water, slightly salted, changing the water daily. For immediate use, simmer in water until tender; if it is to be kept, boil eight or ten minutes, then drain and cover with hot vinegar. To prepare pickled tripe for serving in any manner: wash thor- oughly in cold water, then simmer imtil tender in equal parts of milk and water, or in water alone. BROILED TRIPE Simmer a pound of pickled tripe (the honeycomb tripe is best) two or three hoiu-s, or imtil tender, in sufficient milk and water to cover. Drain, wipe dry, and cut into pieces for serving. Dip each piece in melted butter or oil, season with salt and pepper, and broil over a clear fire until well colored. Serve with tomato or Tartare sauce. CURRIED TRIPE Brown an onion, cut into rings, in one fourth a cup of butter; to this add one pound of tripe, prepared as before, and cut in small pieces, also broth to cover nearly and simmer until tender. Mix one tablespoonful of flour with one tablespoonful of curry powder; dilute with half a cup of cream, and, when smooth, stLr into the tripe and cook about ten minutes, stirring often. Turn on to a hot dish and g,amish with croutons of fried bread. OK TAE,, BRAISED 133 TRIPE, POULETTE STYLE Saut6 an onioa, chopped fine, in one fourth a cup of butter, ■hen well colored add one pound of tripe, cut in small squares, ason with half a teaspoonfid, each, of salt and paprika, and sauti itil the mixture has evaporated; add one fourth a cup of flour, and, ben this is absorbed by the butter, gradually a scant pint of stock, ith a sprig of parsley, or a grating of nutmeg. Boil three or four inutes, then simmer until the tripe is tender. Beat one table- loonful of butter to a cream, add the yolks of two eggs and one blespoonful of lemon juice and stir into the mixture without al- wing it to come to a boil. Serve at once. OX TAIL, BRAISED Separate an ox tail into pieces at the joints, having each piece )out three inches in length; saut6 in hot butter or drippings with sliced onion, a sliced carrot (half if the latter are large) and about 1 ounce of raw ham, fine chopped. When all are well browned, imove to a casserole and add a sprig of thyme, half a bay leaf, id also, if at hand, about half a chopped or shredded pepper, rown one fourth a cup of flour in the pan, add a pint, each, of >matoes and stock, and, when boiling, pour over the joints in the isserole; let cook about three hours; add a glass of sherry wine, lore seasoning if needed, and half a can of peas, if a cup of fresh )oked peas be not at hand. For variation omit the tomato, using ock in its place. The thickening may also be omitted. The lints may be egg-and-bread-crumbed and fried in deep fat. hus cooked, serve with tomato sauce, or sauce Tartare. MUTTON AND LAMB 'Pray you, who does the wolf love?" — Coriolams, z, i. /ERAGE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF MEDIUM FAT MUTTON AND LAMB AS PURCHASED (aTWATEr) Protein Fuel Val. Refuse Water NX 6.25 Fat Ash per lb. UCTTON Per Per Per Pet Per Cat Cent. Cent. Cent. Cent. Cent. oties. !g, hind 18.4 SI. 2 15,1 14.7 )in 16.0 42.0 13. s 28.3 loulder 22.5 47-9 i3-7 ^SS Laub :east 19.1 45.5 15.4 191 «, hind 13.4 47.3 iS-8 23.7 >In 14.8 45.3 16.0 24.1 S .900 7 1-445 7 -910 8 i.ogo 8 1.29s 8 I. 315 IJ34 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING All kinds of meat when first slaughtered are tender, butsooa stiffen owing to the clotting of certain proteids in composition, which were liquid during life. After being kept, or, technically speaking, "hung" for some time, meat becomes more tender, due to the tearing-down processes of bacteria. Beef should hang in a dry cool place for at least three weeks, and mutton much longer. In England the Christmas "shoulder of mutton" is hung for six weeks, being rubbed over every few days with salt and vinegar. Mutton and lamb are often cut into "sides" in the same manner as beef, but occasionally, the first division is made to include the two forequarters in one piece and the hindquarters in the other. MUTTON 1 Cuts 1 Shoulder. yScrag End. Weight 5 to 8 pounds. 2jt0 4 " How Cooked (Braised, steamed t boiled. Stew, broth. n (Neck. (Cutlet End. 2it0 4 (f Stew, steamed. §{ 'Leg. 8 to 9 u Boiled, roasted. |! ■ Loin. Best End. Chump End. 3 to 4 2 to 3 (t «( Cutlets or roast. Cutlets or roast. S| ^.Saddle. 10 to 14 ti Roa^t. This division gives means for the cutting of a " saddle " of mutton or lamb. A sheep two or three years old, or even older, supplies the best mutton. Lamb is from a creature six to twelve weeks old. Mutton is a staple. Lamb appears in market as early as January, but is high in price even at Easter, when spring lamb with mint sauce and green peas are considered, time out of mind, the most recherche of Easter dinners. But lamb two months old is dear at any time, and dearer still are peas in April, which are grown in a hothouse. The flavor of neither the lamb nor the peas will, in general, compensate for the price; so a roast of mutton — saddle, crown, or leg — and new string beans, grown more easily than peas, will more frequently appear in evidence on this day. CUTS OF MUTTON AND LAMB When mutton and lamb are divided into sides and then into fore and hindquarters, eight ribs, instead of three, as in beef, are LEG OF MUTTON, ROASTED 133 left on the hind-quarter. These eight ribs, cut in chops, are the rib chops; chops cut between these and the leg are the loin, kidney, or English chops. These chops correspond to the tenderloin steaks in beef and, though smaller, are identical in shape and general make-up, having flank end, kidney fat, tenderloin, and lean, tender meat above the tenderloin. Rib chops, which have the bone shortened and scraped dean of meat nearly to the "eye," or kernel, are known as French chops. The hind leg, with what corresponds to the round of beef, is sold as leg of lamb, or mutton. It is roasted or boiled. Roasted or boiled mutton is served a Uttle underdone; lamb, like veal, is preferable when thoroughly cooked. The fore- quarter is sold entire, or cut into shoulder and "scrag" (neck piece). This may be boiled or steamed, then browned in the oven. Before cooking it may be boned and rolled. It is also used for broth or stew. For a "saddle "the loin is removed whole. "The crown" is fashioned from the ribs on corresponding sides. The fat of mutton of good quahty is much whiter than that of beef. The bones of mutton are white, of lamb red. People who think they dislike mutton would be surprised at the diEEerence in taste brought about by a little attention to simple details in cooking. The strong flavor attributable to mutton is largely centred in the pink outer skin. This, as also the caul, which is usually skewered about the leg and saddle, should be carefully removed before cooking. In roasting place the joint upon the rack (not upon the bottom of the dripping pan in the melted fat) and baste with drippings from salt pork, if preferred. The loin is rather more delicate in flavor than the leg, but the latter is the more economical piece to buy. LEQ OF MUTTON ROASTED Remove the caul, pink skin, and superfluous fat; cut the leg bone short, set into a hot oven for fifteen minutes, then reduce the heat, dredge with salt, pepper and flour, and baste with bacon or salt pork drippings and hot water. Cook about an hour and a half, longer if liked well done. Dress the bone with a paper frill and surroimd on the serving dish with buttered string beans. Frahconia potatoes, white turnips, parboiled and then cooked and basted with the meat, are also served acceptably with mutton or lamb. Currant jelly, spice currants, bananas, baked or fried, or in fritters, are all appropriate with roast mutton. The loin being 126 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING thinner — especially if the kidney and fat aurrounding it b« r»> moved — may be roasted in less time. BONED-AND-STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON It is but the work of a very few minutes to remove the bone from a leg of mutton. Fill the open space with a bread dressing, highly flavored with sweet herbs or poultry seasoning, and salt and pepper. Sew the meat into a compact shape and roast about an hour and three quarters. Serve as above. What is "left over" is good cold. Add an egg to the dressing, if much of it is to be served cold. To bone, cut off the leg at the joint corresponding to the knee, loosen the flesh aroimd 1±ds joint and with fingers and back of a small knife push the meat away from the bone at least as far as the next joint. Then reverse the leg and push and cut the meat from the hip bone, and so on until the meat is detached from bone throughout, when it may be puUed out from above. SADDLE OF MUTTON, ROASTED The saddle may be cut either with or without the flank. The flank is more satisfactory cooked some other way, but the saddle presents a better appearance when the flank is retained; it is often rolled up on each side and kept in place by stitches in thjree or four places. If the flank be thus rolled, to insure thorough cooking, this side of the saddle should be placed uppermost — that is, to the greatest heat — when the joint is first put into the oven, or rather after the initial process of searing over the outside has been completed. All superfluous fat should be removed. Dredge with salt, pepper, and flour; cook from one hour and three fourths to two hours and half. Garnish with rings of cooked carrot holding a^aragus, or with turnip cups, glazed and filled with aeamed peas, or asparagus tips. Carve in long slices parallel with the backbone, then turn the knife and cut down to the rib bones. Turn the saddle and cut the tenderloin, also, in slices, parallel to the backbone. The tenderloin may be carefully removed, cut in slices, and returned to place, before the joint is sent to the table. Let currant jelly accompany the dish. CROWN ROAST OF MUTTON OR LAMB A crown roast is the most easfly served and, at the same time^ is the handsomest roast that has been devised. It may be fash* MUTTON OR LAMB STEW 127' ioned from a full loin, but is of more perfect shape when cut from both loins and fastened together at the sides. Cut the same number of ribs from both sides of a rack of mutton, selecting ribs on one side that correspond to those on the other. Cut the ribs apart at the backbone, but separate the chops no farther. Trim the bones as for French chops, removing the trimmings to make the meat on the chops of uniform height. Or leave the trimmings on each side in one piece and roll this over and over backward. When the ends are joined, a circle or crown of meat is formed. If necessary, trim the bones, to make all the same in length. Cover the ends of the bones securely with strips of salt pork. Rub with salt, or add the salt when partly cooked. Set in a hot oven ten or fifteen minutes, then reduce iJie heat, and, if necessary to keep the dripping from burning, add hot water. Baste with the drip- ping, and cook from forty-five to sixty minutes, basting often. II convenient, press a cup into the centre of the circle of meat, to in- sxu-e its shape. To serve, fill the centre from which the cup has been taken with green peas, blanched chestnuts, cooked tender in stock and glazed, Saratoga, Bernhardt, or French fried potatoes. A crown roast usually sells for twenty-five cents per pound, the flank being included in weighing the meat. Often the flank is not sent with the crown imless by special request. As the flank makes up nearly half the weight paid for, it should be claimed, being good for a stew. BOILED MUTTON The leg and shoulder are the pieces usually boiled. Put over the fire, barely covered with boiling water, and let boil about ten min- utes, then simmer imtil tender; season with salt when half cooked. A few slices of onion, carrot, and turnip, or two or three stalks of celery, may be added while cooking. When tendecj brush over the meat with drawn-butter sauce and sprinkle with fine-chopped parsley. Serve with drawn-butter sauce, to a cup of which two tablespoonfuls of capers or chopped pickles have been added. The broth makes a particularly good tomato soup. MUTTON OR LAMB STEW 2 or 3 pounds neck of mutton or A sprig of parsley with a bay lea^ lamb. cloves and peppercorns. 3 or 3 tablespoonfuls of dripping. Salt 3 onions. 6 potatoes. I canot. I pint of tomato pur6e. 128 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Cut the meat into pieces two inches square, stir and brown in the hot dripping, add the onions, cut in pieces, with the spices and parsley and water to nearly cover the meat, and let simmer about two hours, then add the carrot, pared and sliced with a handy slicer (this gives a fluted edge), the salt, potatoes, cut in thick slices, and the tomato puree; let simmer very slowly, until the meat and vegetables are tender. Wrap the bay leaf, doves, and pepper- corns in the parsley, to remove aU together. A piece of red pepper is preferable to the peppercorns. If more water be needed, add it cautiously, as a thin stew is not desirable. If lamb be used instead of mutton, the time of cooking should be shortened one half or more. Green peas, about a pint, are a pleasing addition to a lamb stew. The tomato may be omitted or not. MUTTON CHOPS, BROILED Mutton chops should be cut at least an inch thick; trim off super- fluous fat; the small flank ends of loin chops may be cut off for the soup kettle, or skewered around the rest of the chop. The bones of rib chops should be trimmed to uniform length, then scraped dean down to the eye of tender meat. Or the meat, pushed from the bone, may be slit lengthwise a short distance, pulled over the rib bone (the sUt lets the bone through) and then around the chop and a tiny wooden skewer dipped in melted butter will hold it in place imtil it is cooked. Wipe the chops very carefully, to re- move bits of crushed bone, and broil in the same manner as beef- steak, about eight minutes. When done, spread with butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Dress in a cirde, one overlapping another, with potato balls, straws, chips, or green peas, or string beans, in the centre of the dish. Blanched chestnuts, cooked in broth, the broth then thickened with brown or white roux are good as an occasional accompaniment to chops. So also is a puree of onions. Or arrange the chops against a mound of mashed potato or chopped spinach. Rib chops are improved in appearance and may be handled (in eating) more conveniently, if the end of the bone be covered with a paper chop-frill. These cost about forty cents per hundred, or they may be fashioned at home. ROAST LAMB Either the fore or hindquarter of a spring lamb may be roasted; the hindquarter is more easily caxved, but the price is twice ^at MUTTON CHOPS IN CASSEROLE 129 of the forequarter. Eighteen minutes to the pound with frequent basting will be required for cooking. The accompaniments are mint sauce, new string beans, asparagus, or peas. MUTTON CHOPS, FRIED Prepare the chops as for broiling; rub each side of the chops with the cut side of an onion, sprinkle with salt and pepper if desired, then egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat five or six minutes. Move the fat to the back of the range, after the chops are immersed in it, to complete the cooking. Serve as above. Pass tomato sauce with the chops. 'Trenched " chops are usually preferred ior this dish. PAN-BROILED MUTTON CHOPS Prepare the chops as usual, but trim off the fat rather more closely. Put the chops in an iron frying-pan, heated very hot. Turn as soon as the imder side is seared over and sear the other side; turn often and cook from six to ten minutes. When all are cooked, arrange against the side of the pan and brown the fat on the edge. Spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Tomato sauce is usually acceptable with these chops. MUTTON CHOPS IN CASSEROLE For this dish six or eight chops from the forequarter may be used. Saute in butter or dripping imtil lightly browned, first on one side and then on the other. Put into the casserole on a bed of vegetables — an onion, one small carrot, and a tiu-nip, cut into small pieces and sauted to a golden brown; add broth or water just to touch the chops and also a little salt; coyer tightly and let cook imtil tender. About two hours will suffice. A few mushrooms are an addition to the dish. Dried mushrooms, soaked over night in cold water, may be used. Serve from the dish. Sauce thickened with roux may be used instead of the stock or water; or cornstarch diluted with water may be added just before serving. The chops and vegetables may be cooked without browning, and cucumbers, cut in balls or olive shape, may be added instead of the mush- rooms. In this case, when the cucumbers are tender, thicken the sauce and add a generous half cup of cream. 13© PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING MUTTON CHOPS A LA MARECHALE Season French chops with salt and pepper and saute in clarified butter; let cool under a weight, then lightly spread both sides of the chops with a thin layer of crushed and chopped garlic, chopped shallot, mushrooms and parsley sauted in butter and simmered until the moisture has evaporated, then added to a brown sauce. The proportions for the fine herb mixture are: one clove of garlic, four ounces of shallot, one poimd of mushrooms and an oimce of parsley, to one cup of sauce. When cool, cover with a thin layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (see page 233), then egg-and-bread- crumb, using equal parts of beaten yolk of egg and melted butter instead of whole eggs. Dispose on a baking tin, pour over a little clarified butter, and reheat in the oven. Cover the bones with frills and dress crown-shape on a rice croustade. Fill the centre with broiled mushroom caps (two inches across). Serve the rest of the fine herb sauce, diluted with brown stock, as a sauce, adding seasoning and flavoring as needed. LAMB CHOPS X LA CATALANE It luab chc^. i cup of cooked lean ham clu^iped. i pint of thick Bechamel sauce. Butter. Paprika. Tomato sauce. } cup of cooked musbiooms chopped. Red pepper, shredded and cooked. Trim the chops rather close, paring the bones French fashion. Broil on one side only, having that side the same on all the chops. Saut6 the mushrooms and cook in a little broth; use this broth with white stock in making the Bechamel sauce; use also twice the flour usually given for a pint of sauce. Season highly with paprika; add the mushrooms and ham and let become cold. Cover the cooked sides with a layer of the preparation, having it dome shaped. Arrange these in a buttered baking pan, pour melted butter over the tops and finish cooking in a hot oven. The sauce needs be thick to avoid spreading too much. Cover the ends of the bones with frills and (fress in two rows, one chop overlappinj another, on a serving dish, covered with a dish paper. Serve wii tomato sauce apart, to which half a red pepper, cooked and shredded, is added. LAMB CHOPS A LA BUSSY Use mushrooms, sweetbread, and chicken or duck liver cut in quarte»'-inch cubes in Allemande sauce. Cover or not with chicken VEAL i^i forcemeat and proceed as in the recipe above. Serve with cream, or Bechamel sauce. These dishes are often convenient, as they furnish a more substantial service than a plain lamb chop, and may be prepared, ready for the final cooking, some time in advance. LAMB OR VEAL KIDNEY STEW Split a pair of fresh kidneys in halves. Take out the white fat and the sinew from the centre. Cover with cold water and let heat over a moderate fire. Just before the boiling point is reached, drain froni the water and cut into small pieces. Cover again with cold water and heat again, being careful that the water does not boil, or the kidneys will harden. Brown two tablespoonfuls of butter in the frying-pan, add two tablespoonfuls of flour and brown, then stir in gradually one cup of stock or water. Stir and cook several minutes, then add salt, pepper, kitchen bouquet, and one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, and the slices of kidney. Stir until the slices are thoroughly heated, then remove from the fire. Add four tablespoonfxils of sherry, and serve with a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley, sprinkled over the top. If the water about the kidney boils, long cooking will be needed, to render them tender. VEAL " If you could be drawn to aSect beef, venison, or fowl, it would be far better." — BEAnuoNi akd Fletchee, average chemical composition of veal as purchased (atwater) Refuse Per Cent. Water Per Cent. Protein NX6.SS Per Cent. Fat Per Cent. Ash Per Cent. Fuel Val per lb. Calo- ries Bteast ..21.3 S2.0 lS-4 II. .8 7SP Leg . . 14-2 60.1 ISS 7-9 •9 620 Loin ..16.S S7.6 16.6 9- ■9 690 Shank, hind . . .62.7 27.8 7-7 II. 7 •4 aiS Liver 730 19.0 S-3 1-3 57S Veal and lamb, being immature, are not as nutritious as beef and mutton, nor are they as digestible. Like pork, veal needs be thoroughly cooked to be at all wholesome. The lean of good veal is of a pinkish color, the fat is white. Veal is lacking in flavor; its popularity, however, is due to this fact and to its deBcacy of tert- 132 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING ure. Both of these facts render veal desirable as a foundation for "made" dishes. Veal is cut up in a manner similar to that in which mutton is cut. The hind quarter is divided into loin and leg. From the leg is cut the " fillet," "fricandeau" and cutlets. The "knuckle" of veal is that part of the leg just about the knee bone; the shank is below, and cutlets or a fillet may be cut above. The loin is more delicate and less dry than the leg, but it is not as econornical; this can be seen by a glance at the chemical composition. It is used as a roast, or in chops. The breast is used for a roast, the knee and knuckle, for soups and stews. Veal is rich in gelatine, and a soup stock in which it is present usually jellies when cold. The flavor of pork seems W&ys of cooking. ("Knuckle. Soup stock, stews. Sfg. Leg. j Cutlets or fillet or ) Saut6 or roast, o- J (.Cutlets and fncandeau. ) p (.7. Loin. Chops and roasts. {o. Head. Soup, made dishes. 6. Breast. Stew, gelatine. S. Ribs. Stew. 3. Shoulder. Stew. I. Neck. Stew or stock. Brains Made dishes, chafing dish Liver Broiled, saut6d, mock Pate Foie Gras. Heart Stuflfed, baked. Tongue Boiled, braised. fSautfid Sweetbreads Parboiled \ Fried. (.Made dishes. Kidneys Boiled, stew. particularly well adapted to veal, and pork is usually chosen eithei alone, or with other flavors to make up for the deficiency of veal ia this respect. When roasted or braised a fillet and a fricandeau art larded, or daubed with pork; sometimes a stuffing is used in the place of the pork, any cavity from which a bone can be taken af- fording a convenient place for its entrance. The stuffing may be seasoned with sweet herbs, parsley, onion, mace, diopped mush- rooms, and grated lemon. In England a fillet of veal is simmered FILLET AND FRICANDEAU, BRAISED 133 in equal parts of milk and water, the liquid is thickened for a sauce, and to this parboiled oysters are added. The brains and sweet- breads are considered choice delicacies; both spoil quickly, and should be cooked without delay. Soaking in cold water is followed by parboiling in hot water, salted and acidulated, after which they may be kept for some little time. The points to be remembered in the cooking of veal are: flavor is to be added, and, to insure digestibility, long, slow cooking is required. VEAL ROASTED The fillet, a slice five or six inches thick from the heaviest part of the leg — the part corresponding to the " round " in beef — is the most economical piece to buy for roasting, for cutlets, or made dishes. The fricandeau, or best part of tifie fillet, is sometimes served separately as a roast. Other roasting pieces are the "best end of neck," "lorn," and chump, corresponding to ribs, sirloin, and the combined "aitch-bone" and rump in beef. To roast, remove bones, fill the space with bread stuffing (see previous paragraph) nnd with tape bind the meat into a compact shape. Lard the ixicandeau, and spread thin slices of salt pork over the other cuts; dredge with salt, pepper, and flour. Put the meat into a hot oven, after fifteen minutes' cooking, lower the heat, baste frequently and allow at least twenty minutes to the pound; longer cooking will do no harm, if the heat be gentle and the joint be basted fre- quently. The fillet in particular is liable to be dry, imless it be freely basted. After the meat has been removed from the pan, add two tablespoonfuls of flour to two tablespoonfuls of fat left in the pan, cook until frothy, then dilute, gradually, with one cup of water, or stock, let boil six or eight minutes, strain and serve as sauce. Green, French beans (flageolet) are particularly good to serve with roast veal, or mutton. The dried beans are always in the market, and sell for about thirty cents a quart. A cup of beans when cooked are sufficient for a f ainily of five or six. They may be put to soak in cold water, or cooked without previous hydration. When tender and the water has evaporated, toss over the fire with butter and paprika. Add salt when perfectly cooked. FILLET AND FRICANDEAU, BRAISED As the cutting of a fricandeau, which is the best part of the fillet, makes it impossible to cut a fillet from this quarter, the price is 134 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING correspondingly high. This makes it a piece of distinction and, whether roasted or braised, it is usually larded on the best or smooth side. Put in the casserole (use cheap earthenware not designed for table service) on a bed of salt pork, carrot, onion, turnip, and celery; add a "fagot" (see page 22) and stock, or water to one third ie height of the meat, and spread more vegetables over the top; cover closely and let cook very slowly about two hours, then, if the meat be nearly tender, remove the cover and brown the lar- doons. Strain and thicken the gravy to serve with the meat. Spinach puree accompanies a fricandeau. When convenient, it is an improvement to glaze the meat with reduced stock. VEAL CUTLETS Speaking accurately, cutlets are what has been previously dea ignated in speaking of mutton as chops; cote, from which cutlet is derived, means a rib, and properly a piece containing a rib is a cutlet. However, in cutting veal, a sUce from the leg is quite generally termed a cutlet by marketmen and housekeepers. Veal cutlets, each containing a rib bone, are cut so that when flattened with the wet cutlet bat each will be half an inch thick. Brush over with olive oil, or melted butter, and broil eight minutes; if dipped in fresh white bread crumbs broil nine minutes. Serve half a cup of tomato or mushroom sauce with each cutlet, or use a generous allowance of maitre d'hfitel butter. VEAL CUTLETS, NO. 2 (PAPILLOTES) Trim the chops neatly and flatten as before. Saute in butter six minutes on each side. Remove from the fr3dng-pan and add one fourth of a cup flour; when frothy add a cup of broth gradually; let boil five minutes, then strain over three tablespoonfuls of fine herbs (see Mutton Chops a la Mar^chale), and let sim- mer five minutes. For each cutlet cut a sheet of letter paper heart-shape (see di- agram) large enough to leave of margin an inch and a half around the cutlet ; oil the paper, lay on it first a thin slice of bacon, Veal Cutlet in Papillote VEAL POT PIE 135 add a tablespoonful of sauce, then a cutlet, another spoonful of sauce and above all a second slice of bacon. Fold the paper, and turn down the edges securely, as shown in the illustration. Broil the cutlets thus prepared over a slow fire about fifteen minutes, turning often, to avoid setting fire to the papers. To insure suc- cess, cut the papers large enough and fold them securely on the edges. If a double-broUer be used, let it be one having plenty of space between the hinges, to avoid crushing the papers. Serve in the papers. VEAL CUTLETS, NO. 3 Cut a slice from the leg or fillet of veal, freed of bone, skin, and fat, into pieces for serving; flatten them with a wet bat, and dredge with salt, pepper, and flour; saut6 to a golden brown in bacon or salt-pork fat, then remove from the pan and add two tablespoonfuls of flour; stir and cook until brown, then add a cup and a half of broth or water; let boil, then add the cutlets, cover and let simmer three quarters of an hour, or imtil the cutlets are tender. If preferred, egg-and-bread-crumb the cutlets instead of dredging them with flour. VEAL POT PIE Wipe a piece of veal from the shoulder and cut into pieces for serving; add a half -inch strip of salt pork or bacon for each piece of veal, cover with cold water, put over the fire and bring quickly to the boiling point, then, after boiling five minutes, skim and let simmer until the meat is tender. Wten nearly tender, add salt and pepper to season, and a biscuit mixture cut into rounds. Cook ten minutes without lifting the cover. Serve the meat in the centre of the platter, the dumplings at the ends and the sauce, thickened, if needed, with flour and water, over the whole. Parboiled pota- toes with other vegetables may be cooked in the stew. In this case the dumplinjgs should not be £idded until the potatoes are half cooked. If tiiere be a lack of broth, a cup of tomato puree may be added. The dumplings may be steamed fifteen minutes over a saucepan of boiling water. This is usually preferable, to avoid removing them from the fire until the instant of serving. The beaten yolks of two eggs, diluted with half a cup of cream and added to the sauce, give a richer dish. £36 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING DUMPLINGS 1 pint of flour. i tcaspoonf ul of soda or i teaspoonful of salt. 3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 2 teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. About i cup of sweet milk. The dough should be as soft as can be handled; pat out half an inch thick and cut into small rounds. VEAL LOAF 3§ pounds of raw veal. 3 eggs, well beaten. I pound of fat salt pork. 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, milk, white i pound of chicken or lean ham. or tomato sauce. 6 soda crackers. i teaspoonful of sweet herbs or 6 mushrooms. f teaspoonful of mace. I tablespoonful of salt. t teaspoonful of pepper. Pass the veal (that from the leg is best) and the pork through the meat-chopper together with the chicken, or ham, the mush- rooms and the crackers. The ham should have been cooked, and the mushrooms saut6d in butter. Add the other ingredients, mix thoroughly and shape into a compact loaf. Slide on to a tin baking-sheet, cover with scored slices of salt pork and bake on a rack in the dripping pan about two hours, basting every ten min- utes. Serve hot, with a sauce made in the pan after the loaf has been removed; or, preferably, serve cold, sliced thin, with a vege- table salad. CHICKEN LOAF Prepare as veal loaf, substituting the flesh from two uncooked fowl, weighing about three and one third pounds each, one pound of veal and a cup of blanched almonds for the chicken or bam and the veal given in the recipe. PRESSED CHICKEN OR VEAL ^ Cover a young fowl, cut in joints, with boiling water, and let simmer until tender together with a few slices of carrot, half an onion, and a stalk of celery. Remove the skin and bones, and return them with broth to the fire, and let simmer until reduced to about one cup; strain and set aside. When the flesh is nearly CALF'S LIVER LOAF I37 old, cut into tiny cubes, or chop fine; remove the fat from the iroUi, reheat, and stir the chicken into it, adding salt and pepper nd other seasoning, if desired. Decorate a mould with "hard- loiled" eggs cut in slices; in this pack the hot chicken, cover with buttered paper bearing a weight, and let stand untO cold and set. Ise a knuckle of veal in the same manner as the chicken. Serve, [iced thin, with salad. Good with potato or tomato salad. BROILED CALF'S LIVER AND BACON Cook the bacon as on page 144. Cut the liver in slices half an ach thick, cover with boiling water and let stand five minutes; npe dry, then dip in the bacon fat, sprinkle lightly with pepper nd broil five minutes, turning every ten seconds. Serve with he bacon. FRIED CALF'S LIVER (STEAMER PRISCILLA) Cut the liver in slices half an inch thick, cover with boiling water, nd let stand five minutes; wipe dry, rub over with the cut side of n onion, season with pepper and sdt, roll in flour or bread crumbs, hen in eggs and bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat about five minutes, n the meantime put ten or twelve slices of bacon in a double- iroiler over a dripping pan into the oven and cook imtil crisp, lerve the liver and bacon with a garnish of parsley and lemons, ut in quarters. CALF'S LIVER LOAF Remove the skin from a calf's liver, and cut the flesh into slices; ook in boiling salted water five minutes, then drain and chop fine. Ad one teaspoonful of onion juice, half a cup of fine bread crumbs lat have been soaked in cold water and then wrung dry in a cloth, scant teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of poultry seasoning, iiro eggs, well beaten, and the. juice of half a lemon, or one table- )oonful of vinegar; mix thoroughly. Line a brick-shaped baking an with thin slices of bacon, or salt pork, press the mixture tightly ito the pan, cover with pork and steam, or bake in the oven, two ours or more. Turn from the mould, remove the bacon, and !rve with tomato sauce. If it is to be served cold, leave In the an until ready to slice. isS PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING SWEETBREADS The price of sweetbreads varies with the season, in winter bemg about double what it is in the spring. In the country they are often thrown away, and when sold bring not more than twenty-five cents a pair. In the city the price varies from seventy-five cents to one dollar and a half a pair. Although we speak of sweet- breads as a pair, there is in reality but one sweetbread, consisting of two parts connected by a short membrane. The pancreas is sometimes sold for the sweetbread, but the sweetbread proper is found higher up in the throat and breast, and is not connected with the pancreas. Only a vestige of the sweetbread remains after the calf begins to eat grass, while the pancreas is a permanent gland of the aniinal. As they spoil very quickly, sweetbreads should be attended to as soon as received from the market. After being soaked in cold water an hour or more, the water being renewed several times, let simmer for about forty minutes in salted, addulated water, thea remove to cold water to harden. Remove all the tubes, outside skin, and fibres, but do not break the sweetbreads theni^ves. When cooled a little tie each piece in a bit of cheesecloth, drawing the cloth quite tightly, in some cases, to make the pieces of a nearly imiform surface and oval form, then cool under a weight. SWEETBREADS LARDED AND BAKED (HOTEL TOURAINE) 3 pairs of sweetbreads. i can of peas or pint of cooked fresh Truffles. peas. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter or cream. 2 slices of onion. 3 large mushroom caps. 6 slices of carrot. 2 tablespoonfuls of butt«. i cup of glaze (dark). i tablespoonful of flour I oup of cream. Lard the blanched sweetbreads with truffles, seut6 in the butter with the onion and carrot, drain ofE the butter, add the glaze and cook in a moderate oven, basting often, until tJie sweetbreads are well glazed; the cooking is simply to reheat and glaze them. Pass the peas through a sieve, season with salt and pepper and reheat with the butter, or cream. If the peas have been canned, add a teaspoonful of sugar. When the pea-pulp is reheated and quite dry, shape into nests, using a pastry-bag and tube. Dispose the CALF'S HEAD, BRAINS , AND TONGUE 139 sweetbreads in the nests and pour about them the mushrooms, cut in julienne style, saut6d in the butter, dredged with the flour, and then simmered in the cup of cream and the liquid left in the pan in which the sweetbreads were glazed. LARDED SWEETBREADS BAKED Lard two pairs of blanched sweetbreads, alternately, with small salt pork lardoons, and lardoons cut from the yellow rind of a lemon. Set in a dish into the oven with a cup of brown stock, to which bits of salt pork and vegetables have been added and let cook twenty minutes, basting frequently. Serve with a brown mushroom sauce, or with the stock in the pan, thickened with roux and strained. FRIED SWEETBREADS Cut the parboiled and cooled sweetbreads in slices of imiform thickness, egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat. Dress on a hot folded serviette. Serve with Bernaise, or Tartare sauce, or omit the sauce and serve with green peas. They may be sauted i» butter instead of frying in deep fat. SWEETBREADS IN BROWN, CREAM, BECHAMEL OR POULETTE SAUCES Parboiled and cooled sweetbreads cut into cubes, reheated in any one of the sauces mentioned above, mixed with cooked chicken, mushrooms, veal or oysters, also cut in cubes are served in patties, timbale cases, vol-au-vents, etc. They are also chopped coarsely and used in croquettes either alone, or in combination with other material. CALF'S HEAD, BRAINS, AND TONGUE These, especially the brains, are considered great delicacies. The brains may be bought apart for about twenty cents a set; but tiie whole head, including the brains and tongue, is sold for the same price. In buying the head have it dressed (split apart and imedible portions removed) before it is sent home, then soak and scrub in cold water. Put over the fire to cook in cold water; when the water boils, pour it off and cover again with cold water, thus blanching it. When the head becomes cold, rub over with HO PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING the cut side of a lemon, and cover with boiling water; add twooi three tablespoonfuls of white wine, vinegar, or lemonjuice, a bay leaf, an onion, pierced with half a dozen cloves, a few slices of carrot and sprigs of parsley, cover and let simmer until tender. Take out the bones and use the meat in "made" dishes and the broth for a soup. The meat may be packed in a mould and the broth seasoned with salt strained over it. When cold, the jellied head may be cut in slices. The tongue cooked with the head may he served without other preparation than skinning. Soak the brains in cold water several hours, changing the water several times. Tie in a cheesecloth and let simmer twenty minutes in highly seasoned stock. When cold use as sweetbreads. PORK AVERAGE COMPOSITION OF PORK AS PURCHASED (aTWATEk) Fuel Val. Refuse Water Prot«n Fat Ash per lb. Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Cabrles Loin IS.8 43.8 14. 1 25.6 .7 1.340 Ham 14.4 34.9 13.3 33.4 .4 1.655 Salt Clear Fat 7.3 1.8 87.2 3.7 3.715 Bacon, Smoked . .8 16.8 9.2 61.8 4.2 2.780 In these latter days pork has come to be looked upon with dis- trust, and is rarely, save in the form of ham or bacon, seen upon the best tables. There may be good reason for this; but, after all, if we know that the animal from which the roast is taken has been housed in a clean place and fed upon wholesome food, who will not be tempted, occasionally, to taste a savory and fragrant roast of well-crisped pork? Who can doubt that the "burnt pig," that had been fed upon mast by Loti, the swineherd, was as delectable as it was set forth in the Chinese manuscript transcribed for our edification by Charles Lamb? Why should not yoimg pigs, allowed to roam at will in the woods and fatten upon sweet acorns, be as wholesome as turkeys that are fed upon chestnuts, or com; for does not the pith of the whole matter depend upon the feeding? When we consider the high percentage of fat in pork and, con- sequently, its high fuel value, we understand why it was that, in the traditional days of old, when houses were ill-heated and the rigor of a long, cold winter had to be contended against by rich and poor alike, there was more need of the historic Christmas didi, the boar's head of merrie England, than is apparently the case to-day. RIB ROAST OF BEEF. TWO RIBS FROM FORE QUARTER, (See page 114.) VEAL LOAF READY FOR BAKING (See page 136J CANNELON OF BEEF WITH MACARONI A LA ITALIENNE. (See page 117.) SIRLOIN STEAK. TENDERLOIN IN FRONT (Sec papc ilg.) RIB CHOP TRIMMED. FRENCH CHOP RIB CHOP UNTRIMMED. LOIN CHOP. (See pages 124 and 128.) CROWN ROAST OP LAMB. Rib bones covered with paper frills. Centre filled with glazed chestnuts ^See page 126.) TO CURE HAMS AND BACON 141 The curing of salt pork, bacon, and hams by salting and, in case of the two latter, by smoking, acts much as does pasteurization in milk to render them more wholesome. The skin of well-fed pork is fine rather than coarse, is white and clear. The flank and the thick layer of fat over the flesh of the loin and ribs is cured for salt pork and, when of good quality, is of a delicate pinkish opal tint. If the pigs be young, the sides or flanks are transformed by salting and smoking into bacon. The upper part of the hind legs (the hams), and the upper part of the fore legs (shoulders) are salted and smoked. The flesh of the loin (chine) and ribs (spare ribs), denuded of fat, is cut into roasts, or chops. Fresh pork is most unwholesome unless it be thoroughly cooked. Contrary to the general rule for roasting meat, a roast of pork should not be put into a quick oven, lest the outside be seared over and the heat be prevented from penetrating the inmost centre. Twenty or twenty-five minutes to the pound in a slow oven is about the length of time required in cooking. Ham and bacon, if properly cured, need little cooking when broiled or fried. A high temperature, or long-continued cooking — unless very much prolonged — toughens the fibres and impairs digestibility. The thin-sliced bacon of the epicure is served just as soon as heat renders it transparent. Apple sauce, sweetened sparingly, is, on account of the fat splitting property of acids, a fitting accompaniment to all dishes of pork, ham, and bacon. TO CURE HAMS AND BACON (FOR FIFTY POUNDS) 6 pounds of salt. i ounce of bicarbonate of soda. 2§ pounds of sugar or i ounce of saltpetre. if quarts of molasses. 2 gallons or more of water. Cover the bottom of an oak barrel, or firkin, with a layer of salt; mix the rest of the salt and the sugar, or molasses, and with this rub thoroughly each ham or strip of bacon and put them skin side down in the barrel. Put any unused salt and sugar in the water, add the soda and saltpetre, dissolved in a little water, and pour this over the meat; there should be enough to cover well the meat; place a board bearing a weight on top of the meat; let remain from four to eight weeks, according to the size of the pieces; drain for two days, then smoke in a place from which the air is excluded, four weeks with corncobs, green hickory, or maplewood. Hang the 142 PRACTICAI/ COOKING AND SERVING hams, hock downward, as the skin will retain the Juices of the meat. CROWN OF PORK WITH SMALL ONIONS Cut pieces containing six ribs from each side of a rack of pork, having the two pieces of the same length and height; remove the backbone and make an incision between the ribs; trim each rib above the eye as for French lamb chops; turn the rib bones outside and the eyes of the chops inside and sew the two pieces together. Mix a cup of sausage meat with a cup of stale bread crumbs, softened in cold water and wrung dry; add an egg, beaten slightly, and additional seasoning, if needed. Put the crown in the baking pan, and the sausage mixture in the open space inside the crown, cover the bones with buttered paper, dredge with salt, pepper, and flour, and bake in a slow oven between two and three hours, basting every ten minutes with the dripping, to which a little hot water is added. Saute to a delicate brown enough small peeled onions to fill the crown ; add stock and let cook until tender, glazing the onions with the stock as it cooks away. Remove the crown carefully to a serving-dish, so as to avoid breaking the sausage filling^ place the onions in the centre above the filling and garnish with a few sprigs of parsley. Serve with this apple sauce and tomatoes in some form. PORK CHOPS Have the chops cut about half an inch thick; trim off superfluous fat, saute slowly vmtil well browned and thoroughly cooked, or set on the rack in the baking pan into the oven and let cook until well browned. The oven needs to be hotter, on account of the small size, than for a large roast. It will take about twenty-five minutes to cook the chops in either way. Serve with apple sauce. PORK TENDERLOIN, GERMAN STYLE Saute the tenderloin, cut in suitable pieces for serving, in melted butter until sUghtly browned on both sides, then cover and let simmer fifteen minutes, turning once. Add sweet cream to cover the meat in part and cook fifteen minutes longer, or until the pieces are easily pierced with a fork. Remove to a serving dish, add enough flour, stirred with water, or broth, to thicken the liquid, Set simmer ten mkiutes, then add a little lemon juice and pour over the meat. Or, omit the lemon from the sauce and serve in a bowl; SAUSAGE BAKED WITH BEANS 145 ice a slice of lemon on each piece of pork. Season the meat with t after the cream is scalded. PORK CROQUETTES, GERMAN STYLE I small onion. Ground pepper and nutmeg. I pound of tender uncooked pork. 2 ounces of grated bread. 12 boned anchovies. 3 eggs. I tablespoonful of chopped capers. 3 tablespoonfuls of thick sour cream. Cook the onion until tender in butter, then chop with the pork til fine; freshen the anchovies, remove the bones and chop fine; d to the pork with the capers and other ingredients, and mix oroughly. With the hands form into small cutlet shapes rather s than half an inch thick; saut6 ia hot butter, first on one side d then on the other, to a golden brown. Make a hole in the small ds of the cutlets and insert a sprig of paisley* Serve with fine getables, asparagus, peas, or string beans buttered. SAUSAGE WITH APPLE SAUCE Cover the sausage, pricked in every part with a fork, with boiling iter, let simmer fifteen minutes, then drain and brown in the oven on the top of the stove. Make a syrup of a cup, each, of sugar d water and in this cook very carefidly four or five tart apples, red, pared and sliced in rings. Serve these, drained from the nip, around the sausage arranged in the centre of the dish. SAUSAGE BAKED WITH BEANS Let one quart of pea beans soak over night in soft water; washi ain and cook until vexy tender, but not broken, in boiling water, angiog the water at least twice. Put the beans into a baking sh with links of sausage, here and there, using in aJl abo'ut a pound sausage. Dissolve two teaspoonf uls of salt in a quart of boiling iter and pour over the beans, adding more, if needed, to cover, ike five or six hours. Serve hot with tomato catsup. Press the eft over" closely into an oval-shaped dish, taking no care to re- in the shape of the beans. If needed, a plate bearing a weight ay be placed on the top. When cold, turn from the dish and It into slices. Garnish with celery leaves ot paxsky. Serve ith a beet or tomaftD salad. 144 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BOSTON BAKED BEANS WITH PORK I pint of pea beans. i teaspoonful of mustard. 1 teaspoonful of soda. i teaspoonful of salt. i to i pound of salt pork. 2 tablespoonfuls of molasses or sugar. Soak the beans in cold water (soft water preferred) over night. In the morning wash and rinse thoroughly, then parboil until they are soft enough to pierce with a pin and no longer. Change the water while parboilmg, always using boiling water for cooking and rinsing. During the last boiling add soda. Rinse thoroughly in , hot water. Put one half of the beans into the bean pot. Pour scalding hot water over the salt pork and score the rind in half- inch strips. Put into the bean pot above the beans and pour in remainder of the beans. Mix the mustard, salt, and molasses, or, sugar, with hot water and pour over the beans; add boiling water to cover. Bake about eight hours in a moderate oven. Keep the beans covered with water and, also, the cover on the pot imtil the last hour. The pork may be drawn to the surface and browned during the last hour. SALT PORK, COUNTRY STYLE Select clear, fat pork and cut in slices about one third inch in thickness; cover these with boiling water; then dip the slices, ont at a time, in flour, first on one side and then on the other, and put at once into a hot frying-pan; let cook slowly until well browned, then turn and brown on the other side and drain on soft paper. When well cooked but little remains save a dry, crispy shell. Drain oflE part of the fat and into the rest put some apples, cored and sliced without paring; stir with the fat, then cover and let cook slowly until tender, turning carefully now and then. Serve around the pork, or serve the pork upon the apple BACON AS A BREAKFAST RELISH Cut the bacon in slices as thin as possible; this can be easily done if the rind be first removed; or slice down to the rind, then nm the knife under the slice close to the rind. Lay the sHces in a hot frying-pan; as soon as they begin to look clear, tiun, and in a few seconds remove to a soft paper to drain. Or, in a double-broiler over a dripping pan set into a hot oven and let cook vmtil the slices look clear. HAM BAKED WITH CIDER 145 * BOILED HAM Let the ham soak several hours, or over night, after scraping and scrubbing thoroughly with a brush. To cook, cover with cold water, bring slowly to the boiling point, let boil a few moments, then skim and let simmer five hours or more. When tender set aside to partially cool in the liquid, then remove, draw oflE the skin, brush over with beaten yolk of egg diluted with milk, sprinkle with sugar and cracker crumbs mixed together, and set in the oven to brown. Cover the bone with a paper frill. Garnish the dish with parsley. Also serve cold, thinly sliced. Nasturtium leaves and blossoms make a most appropriate garnish for a platter of thin- sliced, cold-boiled ham. HAM BAKED WITH CIDER Soak and scrub the ham; when ready to cook make a dough or thick paste of flour and water and spread over the ham, encasing it completely; set on the rack in a baking pan into a hot oven to cook the paste, then lower the temperature and let cook about five hours. About an hour before cooking is done, make a hole in the paste and pour in a cup of hot cider; repeat this twice if needed, or use for liquid what drips into the pan. When tender, remove crust and skin from three fourths of the ham, leaving one fourth of the skin about the shank bone. Brush the skinned portion with beaten yolk of egg and sprinkle with cracker crumbs mixed with sugar and return to the oven to brown. Serve hot or cold. To serve cold, dip olives, cut in halves with stone removed, into a little dissolved gelatine and press them about the ham close to the skin; conceal the bone with a paper frill and surround with a wreath of lettuce cut in narrow ribbons. Capers, chilies, and lard pipings also are used to decorate a cold- boUed ham, served whole. HAM COOKED IN A CASSEROLE Scrub and soak the ham. Put in a large earthen casserole (these can be bought for a dollar) with a kitchen bouquet, a cup of soup vegetables, a quart of water, and a pint of cider; cover closely, pasting a strip of cotton cloth aroimd the joint where the dish and cover meet; let cook in the oven, or on top of the range, without boiling, about six hours. Finish as a boiled or baked 146 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING ham. Strain the liquid and use in making a sauce to serve nvlth the ham when hot. BROILED HAM Cut the ham very thin. If mild cured, broil over bright coals three or four minutes; if very salt, let stand in boiling water five or ten minutes, then dry and broil. For fried ham proceed in the same way, using the hot frying-pan in place of the broiler. HAM CROUTONS Dip long kite-shaped pieces of bread in melted butter; brown in the oven, then let cool. Arrange these in a circle on a serving dish, the narrow ends meeting in the centre. Pound a cup of lean, cooked ham, chopped fine, half a cup of butter, and four tablespoonfuls of Bechamel sauce to a paste; pass through a pur^e sieve, then pipe — using a bag with star tube attached — upon the pieces of bread. Garnish the piping with chopped white of egg. Place stoned olives or pimolas and sprig of parsley between the croutons. Use hard- boiled white of egg or, better still, two or three uncooked whites and a tablespoonful of milk or cream to each white, beaten to- gether; turn into a buttered dish and poach gently until firm in water "just off the boil." Serve as a luncheon dish, or as a hors d'osuvre. JELLIED PICKLED PIQS' FEET. (MRS. T. B. WHEELOCK, ST. PAUL) 6 cleaned pigs' feet. Piece of red pepperpod. A bay leaf. Salt. 6 cloves. A sprig of parsley. I large onion sliced. White wine vinegar. Cook the feet in boiling water until nearly tender, then add the bay leaf, onion, cloves, pepperpod, parsley, and salt, and finish cooking. Take out the feet, skim off the fat and strain the liquid. Remove the large bones from the feet and place the latter in an earthen bowl; add vinegar to the liquid (half liquid and half broth, if the vinegar be not too strong) and pour over enough to cover the feet. If there be much more broth than is required, reduce by slow cooking before the vinegar is added, to insure a jellied conditioB when cold. STUFFED PORK TENDERLOINS 147 STUFFED PORK TENDERLOINS, WITH BANANAS Have two pork tenderloins of good size. These sell for twenty- five cents each in Eastern markets, but are much less in most other markets. Make a bread dressing of one cup of soft crumbs, two or three sage leaves, a grating of onion, one fourth a teaspoon- ful, each, of salt and pepper and one fourth a cup of melted butter. Spread this on one of the tenderloins, and press the other above it; tie in three places with tape or narrow strips of cloth, set on several skewers in a casserole, pour over some hot dripping and let cook about two hours in a very moderate oven, basting frequently with hot fat. When about ready to serve, peel some bananas, scrape off coarse threads, cut in halves, crosswise, and each half, length- wise. Dip the quarters in flour and saute in hot fat. Set tihe meat on a serving dish, surround with the bananas and serve at once. CHAPTER V Poultry and Qame "Stuff it and roast it and baste it with care; Daintily then the gravy prepare, While 'round you the savory odors shall tell, Whate'er is worth doing is worth doing well."— L. F. G. AVERAGE COMPOSITION OF POULTRY AND GAME AS PURCHASED (aTWATEr) Fuel Val. Refuse Water Protein Fat Ash P^'lb- Percent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Per Cent. Calories. Chicken 34.8 48.5 14.8 i.i .8 .500 Fowl 30.0 45. 6 13.4 10.2 .8 .680 Turkey 22.7 42.4 17.7 18.4 .8 1.070 Goose 22.2 33.1 10.3 33.8 .6 1.620 The term poultry includes all domestic birds used as food. Game is a term applied to wUd animals taken in hunting, trapping, fowling, and fishing. Pigeon and squab are included under game. In some localities game is lower in price than beef or mutton. Game is rich in phosphates and, on account of the natural manner in which wild creatures feed and live and, also, from absence of fat, it is more readily digested than most nitrogenous foods. When htmg a proper length of time, the flesh of most game is tender. (Wild geese and ducks excepted.) The custom of allowing game to hang to induce "high" flavor is a menace to the health of the consumer and should be discouraged: particularly in case of game of dark color, which is usually served quite rare. The best cuts of venison correspond to the best cuts of beef or mutton and are cooked in the same manner. Spring chickens hatched in in- cubators may be had for broiling at almost any season of the year, but from January to July the price is too high to admit of purchase save on rare occasions. From July to September the price is such that they may be considered among the possibilities for a Sunday dinner, or a " little dinner " when guests are in attendance. Yoimg 148 LARDED SWEETBREAD BAKED. TOURAINE STYLE (See page J38.) HV ■T""^^ ^■i^ IPCS^MPHk'*^ mMH mr Jt^uvS^ 7^-^" f''^^'^^^ Hpp ^0 'i 7 Jt^ yy^l --^-^^^^^1 K^^^ ^^ JF^j; i^^^^^g^l l^l^l ^^^B^^B^^HH SADDLE OF MUTTON, ROASTED. Garnish; Glazed turnip cups filled with peas. (See page 126.) BBOILED MUTTON CHOPS AROUND A MOUND OP SPINACH. (Seepages 128 and 129.} HOW TO CLEAN AND DRAW FOWL 14, turkeys in August and September are delicacies purchasable by the few. All fowl are in their prime from November to March. When admissible all birds should be dry-picked and "drawn" as soon as killed. This last precaution insures a wholesome and well- flavored viand. Pin-feathers indicate a young fowl; hairs an older one. If the end of the breastbone be cartilaginous, bending easily, the fowl is not more than a year old; after that age the cartilage hardens into bone. The legs and feet of a young fowl are soft and smooth to the touch; upon the legs of older fowl the scales are sharp and pronounced, and the spurs are strong and large. HOW TO CLEAN AND DRAW FOWL Many poulterers singe and draw fowl; they also remove the ten- dons from the drumsticks, whereby that joint is very much im- proved. The dealer has all the conveniences for this work, and, if he attend to these matters, the time and strength of the house- keeper are saved. At the same time he will need looking after; the lungs and bean-shaped kidneys lie in small cavities, and only the careful, painstaking marketman takes trouble to remove them. If this work be done at home, the first thing, the fowl having been picked, is to remove pin-feathers and all feather stumps re- maining in the skin; a strawberry huller is the best thing yet devised for this purpose. Singeing is next in order. One or two table- spoonfuls of alcohol ignited on a tin dish affords the best means for doing this; lighted paper may also be used. Take the bird by the head and feet and turn it constantly, that the flame may touch every part. To singe small birds run four or five at a time a little distance apart on a long skewer, then taking the skewer by the ends pass them over the flame, turning the skewer meanwhile. Cut off the head — the heads of canvasback and other choice varieties of wild duck and those of small birds are often left on the body — and after loosening the crop by passing the finger around the same, draw out the gullet with crop attached and the windpipe ; if the crop be not very full — as it should not be — this may be done without making a slit in the skin of the neck. When necessary to cut the skin it should be done at the back. Cut off the neck bone even with the top of the breast, but do not cut off the skin. When the fowl is trussed, the skin may be brought down under the tips of the wings and fastened either with a skewer or the thread that is used in trussing. Cut carefully just through the skin of the leg at the joint, or ISO PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVmG , make a cut lengthwise through the skin below the joint; at either place the tendons running up into the drumstick will be exposed and with a trussing needle or skewer they may be drawn out one after another. At the market the poulterer, alter slitting the skin to lay the tendons "bare, hangs the fowl, first by the tendons in one leg and then by those in the other, upon a meat hook, and with a single pull the tendons are drawn. The Little Giant tendon puller has been devised lately; by its use all the tendons in one leg of a fowl may be drawn at once. When one sees how easily these are removed, it seems strange that this really marked improvement in the dressing of turkeys is so universally omitted. Cut a small opening just through the skin under the rump, near the vent, insert at first one and afterward two fingers and pass them around close to the body, between the body and internal organs, at first close to the breast bone, then reach in beyond the liver and heart and loosen on either side down close to the back. After all the internal organs are loosened, take hold of the gizzard, which lies at the base of the breast bone, and draw this out gently and all that has been loosened will follow. In drawing a fowl avoid break- ing the gall-bladder attached to the liver, the liquid from which will cause a bitter taste in whatever it comes in contact with. The lungs, lying in cavities under the breast, and the kidneys in cavities in the backbone, need to be taken out separately. Wipe out, or rinse if needed, and dry thoroughly. All birds to be served whole are cleaned and d^awn after this manner. DRESSING FOWL FOR BROILING When birds are to be broiled, they are cleaned and the tendons are drawn in the same manner, but they are drawn in a different way. Lay the bird upon the meat-board breast down, and with a sharp, strong knife cut down through the flesh on each side of the backbone, from the neck to the nmip, thus cutting out the rump, the backbone, and the neck; lift up the backbone slightly and with the fingers loosen the internal organs from the back, first on one side and then on the other, then loosen them from the breast; after this has been done, the neck, backbone, and rump, with all the internal organs attached, may be separated in one malss from the rest of the bird; now carefully scrape and push the flesh from the breast bone and remove that; remove the rib bones; cut off the kgs at the second joint; and cut through the sinews at other jointc. THE GIBLETS 151 DRESSING A FOWL FOR A FRICASSEE Singe, remove pin-feathers and tendons, then separate the fowl into pieces at the joints. Beginning with the legs, cut through the loose skin between the legs and the body, bend the leg-and cut off at the joint; by moving the legs a little the joint between the "second joint" and drumstick can be ascertained; cut through the flesh at this place, then sever the ligaments. Cut through the skin and flesh on the under side where the wing joins the body, and disjoint the wing. Make an incision between the ends of the breast bone and the tail, near the latter; carefully cut through the skin from the incision to the backbone on each side. Then remove all internal organs. Cut through the ribs, and the articulation at the top of the collar bone, thus separating the breast and back; divide the back by cutting through the middle crosswise. Often the wishbone and flesh attached to it are cut off and the rest of the breast chopped into two parts at the bone; these, however, are not nattiral divisions, but convenient for serving. Wipe the pieceo with a damp doth and wash the inside of those that need it; do not soak in water. A fowl for broiling or for fricassee needs to be fresher than for roasting. If a fowl have an odor about it that indicates long keeping, wash on the inside with water in which a little soda has been dissolved and let stand uxitil time of cooking with bits of charcoal inside. Chickens and turkeys one year old are best for roasting. When older steam for an hour or more, then finish cook- ing and brown in the oven. THE GIBLETS The gizzard, heart, and liver are known as the giblets. To qImjq, ^Mt the gall-baig (snlaU green appendage) from the liVer to whicb it as attached; do not brrak this. Press the blood from the valves of the heart, remove the fat from the gizzard, cut through the thick part just to the inner lining and peel fiiis from the inside, or second stomach; cut away the white gristle, retaining the thick fleshy portion. Wash all thoroughly and use with the neck and tips of the wings in soup, in giblet sauce, in stuffing, or forcemeat. The liver is considered a delicacy; the liver of game birds, roasted or broiled, is mashed, highly seasoned and spread upon the toast upon which the bird is served. IS2 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BONINQ POULTRY AND BIRDS Bones are a much more valuable acquisition to the soup kettle, if they be added imcooked. Poultry and birds, boned and filled with forcemeat, may be served either hot or cold, and have the advantage of being easily carved. They may be boned in either of two ways, according to the shape they are to assume; one is used when the skin and flesh is to be roUed around stuffing; the other when the natural shape is to be restored by stuffing. In either case it is desirable to keep the skin as whole as possible. BONING TO PRESERVE SHAPE In this process the skin with the flesh attached is to be separated intact from the bones which support it; the fingers and the back of a sharp, pointed knife are most serviceable in pushing and scraping the flesh from the bones, and the sharp edge of the knife when cut- ting is desirable. Singe, remove the pin-feathers, head, tendons, and lastly, the feet, wipe carefully, but do not draw the bird, as a firm foimdation upon which to work is desirable. Loosen the skin around the end of the leg bone, and cut through the skin on the back from the neck to about the middle of the bad:. Beginning on one side, scrape the flesh with the skin from the back- bone to the free end of the shoulder-blade, push the flesh from this and then follow the bone to the articulation of the wing, then down to the middle joint of the wing, free this and disjoint the bone at the tip- joint; free the flesh from the other shoulder-blade and wing in the same way, then push the flesh from each collar-bone down to the breastbone, separating the crop from the flesh. The skin lies very close over the edge of the ridge of the breastbone, and great care must be exercised to keep it whole; use the fingers rather than the knife. Now separate the flesh from the ribs, taking care not to penetrate the lining into the inside; push the flesh from the second joint, then from the leg, pulling the flesh down over the ends of the legs, where the skin was looseneid at first, just as one often turns a glove wrong side out, when it does not come off easily; free the bones on the other side in the same way, then push the skin from the backbone until the rump is reached; cut through the bone, leaving a part of it in the rump. Now, when the skin on the under part is separated from the lining membrane, the edible portion of the bird (saving the giblets) is in one piece and the bony structure with the internal organs in another. TRUSSING POULTRY AND BIRDS 153 BONINQ FOR A GALANTINE Prepare the fowl as before, but cut the skin down the whole length of the backbone, then work the flesh from the bones on either side just as before, except that the skin upon the wings and legs need not be so carefuUy freed from the bones, as it is pulled inside to give a rectangular shaped piece. STUFFING POULTRY AND SMALL BIRDS Poultry and birds that are to be baked or roasted are usually stuffed, as it gives them a plumper appearance, though occasionally some one suggests that the stiffing absorbs much of the flavor of the bird so dressed and recommends the discontinuance of this practice. For a change omit the stuffing, but thrust an onion or a piece of bread into the cavity to produce moisture. If birds are small, so that they do not require long cooking, two or three mushroom caps, peeled and sauted in a little hot butter five min- utes, may be pushed into the cavity. Thus cooked the mushrooms will flavor the birds and be in turn flavored by them. When the fowl or small birds are to be stuffed, fill the body with materials of such kind as is desired; put in a Little at the slit in the skin of the neck to fill out the place left by the removal of the crop, and fold the skin down over the back; put in the rest of the stuffing at the cut made in drawing the fowl; push the cushion ot the tail, after removing the oil-bag, into the same opening and sew securely. TRUSSING POULTRY AND BIRDS FOR ROASTING Steel skewers are quite generally used for trussing, but in most cases it is quite as easy and preferable to use the trussing needle, which is similar to a long, large, packing needle, except that it has a three-sided point. Turn the wings in, so that the three joints of each will form triangles on the back of the fowl, the tips being pushed over the first joint and meeting on the skin of the neck where it was turned over the back. Thread the trussing needle with white cotton twine; press it through the middle joint of the wing, then over the first joint, taking up a stitch through the skin of the neck, folded over, and the back, then out through the second joint of the second wing. The needle may now be returned in the same way to the first side and tied there, or it may be returned 1 54 PkACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING through the thighs and body at the bend of the thigh joint. Now press the legs down and close to the body; push the needle through the leg and body to the other side, return through the flesh and body, or over the backbone and through the flesh of the second leg; draw tightly and tie. When sendmg the needle back to the first side, both at the side of the wing and the leg, make a stitch nearly three eighths of an inch in length; when the bird is roasted, cut this stitch and then draw out the threads by the knots made in tying. Truss small birds in the same fashion, the feet and legs, nicely cleaned, may be retained and in trussing are left standing iji an upright position. FILLETING POULTRY AND BIRDS A "fillet" is usually spoken of as a thin slice of flesh freed from skin and bone. When tfiis term is applied to fowl, though it may have this signification, the whole breast of the fowl, removed in two pieces and separated lengthwise into four cutlet-shaped pieces, is usually meant. Each side of the breast of a fowl may be (hvided naturally, as it were, into two fillets. The two outer or upper portions are called the large fillets and the two smaller, mignon fillets. To fillet a fowl, slit the skin along the ridge of the breast- bone up to the neck, turn the skin back and press the knife-blade along tlus ridge close to the "wishbone," then lift up the flesh from the breast, ribs, and base of the wing, keeping dose to the bone; repeat on the other side, and the flesh wiU be removed in two ovai pieces thicker at one end. Separate each side into large and small fillets; remove the outet membrane from the large fillets and the tendon running the entire length of each small fflet. The membrane and tendons shrink in cooking and injure the shape of the fillets. Before cooking the fillets are neatly trimmed and often garnished with slices of truffle, or smoked beef tongue. FiUets are also cut from each breast in lengthwise slices; four or five can be cut from each side of the chicken. When they are to be thus cut, the meat needs to be removed with care, to avoid separating the mignoii from ths large fillet. ROASTING POULTRY AND BIRDS When poultry, birds, etc., have been cleaned and trussed ready for cooking, cover the breast with thin slices of salt pork, or bacon, STUFFING FOR CHICKENS AND TURKEYS 155 scored lightly; fasten these in place with skewers or strings and set on a ra«i in a baking pan, a little larger than the object. The rack should be smaller than the pan, to admit of free use of a spoon in basting. The "heat indicator" should point to the centre of the dial. If necessary to avoid burning, let the pan rest on a grate. Turn the object often that it may be seared over uniformly. It will take from fifteen to thirty minutes to sear over a turkey, and other objects accordingly. When this is accomplished, close damper, add a little hot water and dripping to the pan and reduce the tem- peratiire as soon as possible to that of ordinary baking. Baste every ten nainutes, dredging with flour after each basting. When the joints separate easily, the cooking is completed. (It will take three hours to roast a ten-pound turkey.) Just before this con- dition is reached, remove the pork from the breast, baste with a little butter melted in hot water and return to the oven for the final browning; baste several times, or until the desired color is attained. For best results, use no hot water, in basting, use fat only. BREAD STUFFING FOR CHICKENS AND TURKEYS 2 cups of soft bread crumbs. i teaspoonful of pepper. i cup of butter, melted. J teaspoonful of powdered sweet I teaspoonful of salt. herbs or spiced poultry seasoning. I beaten egg. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly. The bread should be twenty-four hours old and taken from the centre of the loaf. Exact quantities of seasoning are given, but this is a matter of individual taste. At least twice the amount of ingredients given in the recipe will be needed for- a nine or ten-pound turkey. The egg may be omitted if the dressing is to be eaten hot; a cold dressing will slice better if the egg be used. Cracker cnunbs give a drier stufl5ng. OYSTER STUFFING To a highly seasoned bread stuffing add an equal bulk of whole oysters. Or fill the fowl with oysters dipped in cracker crumbs^ then in melted butter and again in crumbs. As long cooking detracts from the goodness of oysters, the fowl may be roasted without stuffing and served with scalloped oysters. iS6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING CHESTNUT STUFFING If desired. I pint of blanched chestnuts. i pint of fine-chopped chicken or i cup of butter. veal, or I teaspoonful of salt. i pint of bread crumbs moistened Pepper. with I cup of butter. Additional seasoning, as onion or lemon juice and chopped parsley. Blanch the chestnuts (see page 31), then cook until tender in boiling salted water, drain and pass through a ricer. Add the seasoning and mix with the veal; moisten with hot cream or stock, if a moist dressing is preferred. POTATO STUFFING Mix together two cups of mashed potato, one cup of soft bread crumbs and from one fourth to one half a cup of butter; season to taste with salt, pepper, sage, summer savory, or povdtry seasoning as wished; add a beaten egg for a dressing to slice smoothly. TURKISH STUFFING J pound of rice 2 ounces of almonds. I dozen French chestnuts. 14 teaspoonful each, of salt, paprika i pound of well-washed currants and ground cinnamon }^ cup of butter. Wash the rice and cook until half done in boiling salted water; drain and add the other ingredients, the chestnuts cooked and cut in small pieces, the almonds blanched and chopped. Use as any stuffing. BREAD STUFFING (GREEN) 6 ounces of soft bread. i teaspoonful of spiced pepper. I lemon rind, grated. J cup of melted butter or I tablespoonful of green thyme, I pound of beef suet, Aopped. chopped. I egg. I tablespoonful of marjoram, 2 tablespoonfuls of parsley, chopped. chopped. Mix as usual, use the suet only in a dressing to be served hot. If green herbs are not at hand, use the dried herbs for flavor and tint the dressing green with the pulp of cooked spinach pressed through a cloth. DOMESTIC GOOSE, ROASTED 157 TURKEY STUFFING (ST. JAMES) Chop together the liver of the turkey and one small onion; stir these in a saucepan over the fire, but do not brown, about ten min- utes, then mix the contents into a pound of sausage meat. When thoroughly mixed, add about two dozen of whole chestnuts. The chestnuts should be shelled, blanched, and cooked until tender in boiling salted water. QIBLET SAUCE Pour off the fat from the pan in which the fowl was cooked; add two tablespoonfuls of flour to the pan and let brown, stirring con- stantly; add slowly one cup of the water, now cool, in which the giblets were cooked, let boil, then simmer about ten minutes, stir- ring occasionally; add more liquid, if the sauce becomes too thick, from the browned flour in the pan used in dredging the fowl; season as needed and strain over the giblets chopped rather coarse. YOUNQ DOMESTIC QOOSE, ROASTED The goose should be considerably less than a year old, a "green" goose, four months old, is considered the choicest. Such a goose is usually roasted without stuffing. If it be bought in the open market, it will probably need to be thoroughly scrubbed on the put- side; many reliable audiorities advocate the use of soap to facilitate the cleansing process. Rinse outside and in. Rub the inside with an onion cut in halves, then season with powdered sage, salt, and pepper. (The onion and sage may be omitted.) Put the goose, after trussing neatly, on the rack in the pan and cook about an hour; then pour off the fat from the pan and dredge the goose with flour; season, also, with salt and pepper and lay slices of salt pork over the breast. When the flour is browned, baste often with hot water, dredging with flour after each basting. If the goose be not too fat, the dripping in the pan may be used for basting; but usually boiling salted water is better. Cook until the joints separate easily, from one hour and a half to three hours. Serve with a carefully prepared dish of apple sauce. The apples should be stewed very quickly to keep them white, and but little sugar should be added. A goose about one year old should be steamed, or braised until nearly tender and then dredged with flour and browned in the oven. 158 PHACnCAX COOKING AND SERVING POTATO AND WALNUT STUFFING FOR ROAST GOOSE 2 cups of hot mashed potato. i teaspoonful of salt. I teaspoonful of onion juice or 4 tablespoonfuls of thick cream. grated onion. i tablespoonful of butter. J cup of sliced walnut meats. Yolks of two eggs. i teaspoonful of paprika. i teaspoonful of sweet herbs if de- sired. PRUNE STUFFING FOR ROAST GOOSE J pound of prunes. i dozen large chestnuts. I cup of rice. I cup of melted butter. Salt, paprika and ciimamon. Soak the prunes over night in cold water; drain, cover with water and cook iintil nearly tender. Blanch one cup of rice (see page 2 7) ; add the prune juice and water to make about three cups in all, also salt as needed, and in this cook the rice until nearly tender and the liquid is absorbed; then add the prunes, stoned and cut in quarters, the chestnuts, blanched and cut in pieces, the butter with salt, paprika and cinnamon as desired. Mix thoroughly and handle as any stuffing. This may be used for turkeys. DOMESTIC DUCKS, ROASTED Domestic geese and ducks are trussed very much as turkeys and roasted with or without stuffing; a well-cleaned head of celery may be thrust inside to create moisture and give flavor, though this is more practised with wild ducks. Roast in a hotter oven, after the outside is seared, than for fowl. Cook from half to a whole hour, or imtil the joints separate easily. Baste every ten minutes. Save upon the breast there is but little flesh on ducks. STUFFING FOR ROAST DUCKS Chop the liver fine, and saute in one tablespoonful of hot butter, with a tablespoonful of chopped onion; mix with four ounces of bread (one fourth a loaf), one fourth a cup of butter, melted; add one tablespoonful of parsley, chopped fine, and the beaten yolk of an egg. STUFFING FOR DUCKS, GEESE, AND PORK Parboil three small, mild-flavored onions in two waters. Then boil until tender, In the meantime, scald eight or ten sage leaves GALANTINE OF CHICKEN OR TURKEY 159 in hot water, allowii^ them to stand five minutee. Drjr thoroaghly and chop with the onions until the mixture is very fine; add one cup and a quarter of fine bread crumbs (five ounces), one fourth a teaspoonful, each, of paprika (or spiced pepper) and salt. When well mixed, add two tablespoonfuls of butter and bind together with an egg, well beaten. GUINEA FOWL, ROASTED Singe, clean, wash and truss two guinea fowl; put a slice or two of bacon inside of each, rub over the outside with salt, pepper and flour and fasten a slice of salt pork or bacon over the breast of each. Set to cook, breast downward, in a hot oven. Baste each fifteen minutes; turn the breast uppermost during the last of the cooking. Cook about two hours, or until the joints separate easily. Dredge with flour af te* each basting imtil nicely colored. Serve with bread sauce in a bowl and cress salad on a dish apart. Season the cress with French dressing. BOILED FOWL, POULETTE SAUCE Have the fowl (one year) carefully drawn, singed, cleaned; and washed; truss as for roasting, rub over the skin with the cut side of a lemon (to keep it white), then tie in a piece of cheesecloth. Have about three cups Of water boiling in an agate saucepan; put in the fowl and cover close; let boil fifteen minutes, then let simmer imtil tender. Add more water if needed, but, when the fowl is cooked, the quantity should not exceed one pint. Add half a teaspoonful of salt, when the fowl is nearly cooked. Set the fowl on a hot dish. Melt one fourth a cup of butter; in it cook one fourth a cup of flour and half a teaspoonful of paprika: add three fourths a cup of cream and the pint of broth and stir constantly until boiling; let boil about five minutes; remove from the fire, pour two or three tablespoonfuls on the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, mix thoroughly and gradually stir into the sauce. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve at once. Fine-chopped parsley may be sprinkled over the whole. Boiled rice may be served aroxmd the chicken or in a separate dish, QALANTINB OF CHICKEN OR TURKEY, BRAISED Spread out the turkey or fowl, boned according to directions for a galantine, skin side down, push the legs and wings inside and trim where needed to secure a rectangular shape. Sprinkle with i6o PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING salt, pepper, onion juice, and fine-chopped paxsley. Dispose lengthwise upon this cubical strips of cold, cooked tongue and large lardoons of cold, cooked salt pork. Fill the space between with raw chicken, or veal, scraped from the fibres, pounded in a mortar and seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped mushrooms, chopped parsley, and thyme moistened with stock or milk; then, com- mencing at one end, roll up very tightly like a jelly-roll and sew through the skin securely. To be served moulded in jelly, rub the outside with the cut side of a lemon to keep it white. After the roll has been tied or sewed in shape, wrap in a piece of cheesecloth, tie at the ends, also at one or two other places. Put the bones and trimmings of the fowl, a knuckle of veal, and half a cup of finely cut vegetables in a large casserole or stewpan, cover with cold water, and when the boiling point is reached, put the galantine on top of the bones and after boiling a few moments let simmer four to six hours. Let partly cool in the kettle, then unroll the cloth, which will be loose and wrinkled, and make it firm and smooth; let the galantine cool under a weight. Remove the cloth and wipe off the fat with a cloth wrung out of hot water. It may now be finished in one of several ways: moulded in aspic jelly; glazed; covered with chaudfroid sauce and decorated; or brushed over with beaten yolk of egg, sprinkled with fresh bread crumbs and browned in the oven (see illustration, page 176.) To glaze, set the dish containing the glaze (see page 212) in a vessel of hot' water, and when melted apply the glaze with a brush. If it is to be covered with chaudfroid sauce (see page 209) have the galantine thoroughly chilled, then fill any hollow places with chaudfroid sauce, and when firm pour sauce over the whole; when nearly firm again, decorate with truffles, cooked white of egg, or sifted yolk of egg. When these are "set," brush over with liquid aspic jelly. Garnish the dish with blocks and triangles of aspic jelly, the blocks hollowed out a little to hold stuffed olives or pimolas. A galantine may be moulded in aspic jelly (see pages 247 and 251). Use the stock in which the galantine was cooked for the aspic jdly. The galantine in the illustration (see page 176) when hot was brushed over with beaten yolk of egg, sprinkled with fresh bread- crumbs and browned in the oven. An imboned fowl, or tiurkey trussed as for roasting, but without stuffing, may be braised m the same manner as the galantine. A galantine may be made of a boned breast of veal, or lamb, or of a boned fish. Haddock with halibut forcemeat is particularly good with a green salad. Salmon may be introduced for color. CHICKEN SAUTE 16.1 BROILED CHICKEN WITH SWEET POTATOES Clean and draw a young chicken following the directions given on page 150, wipe carefully, brush over the inner side with oil or melted butter, squeeze over it the juice of a lemon, add sliced onions and bits of parsley, let stand an hour or more, then broil in a well- oiled broiler very slowly twenty minutes, or until the thickest part of the flesh seems cooked. Turn the chicken frequently; the skin browns very quickly and the cooking is principally done on the flesh side; baste frequently with the marinade. Remove to a hot platter, spread with two tablespoonfuls of creamed butter, to which a dash of paprika and a teaspoonful of fine-chopped cress has been added, adding also a few grains of salt. To shorten the time of cooking over the coals, and thus lessening the danger of burning, put the chicken in the broiler over a dripping pan in a hot oven, basting frequently, and when nearly cooked brown over the coals. In the South a strip of bacon would be skewered upon each side of the breast. Have ready two sweet-potatoes, parboiled and cut in thin slices lengthwise, fasten the slices of each potato to- gether at one end with a skewer, then spread them like a fan, brush over with butter, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon and bake in a hot oven, basting occasionally with melted butter. CHICKEN saute' NO. 1. Disjoint a full-grown chicken. Marinate the pieces — i.e., ^oour over them three or four tablespoonfuls of oil — dust with salt and pepper, strew with an onion sliced in rings, and add the juice of a lemon. Let stand several hours, or a day. Half an hour before serving cut a slice of salt pork in bits and try out the fat; remove the onions from the chicken and wipe the pieces on a doth; dip them in milk and flour them well; then saute in the hot fat imtil a golden brown on all sides. Serve piled on a napkin, with bread sauce iii a boat. CHICKEN saute', WITH COLBERT SAUCE Truss a chicken as for roasting, using a trussing needle and twine rather than skewers. Cook in boiling water, or stock, six or eight minutes; drain, split through the back lengthwise, and place be- neath a weight without breaking the bones. When cold brush over with beaten egg, dust with salt and pepper, and cover with i63 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING bread crumbs. In a large saute pan heat some clarified butter, or salt-pork fat, and in it saute the diicken slowly to a dehcate brown. Then put into the oven and cook about an hour longer, according to age, basting every ten minutes. Drain and serve with Colbert sauce, (see page mj). CHICKEN SAUTE WITH CAULIFLOWER Cut the chicken into ten pieces, and saute as No. i. To serve, place the drumsticks on a large chop dish with small ends together and the other ends turned to the right and left; beyond these place the two body pieces with the second joints resting upon ttiem. Dispose the breast in an upright position between the drumsticks with the "merry thought" resting against the second joints; above the joints, the wings and the pinions at the ends of the two body pieces. If there are two chickens, repeat the arrangement on the other side. Separate a hot boiled cauliflower into flowerets and aitange about tiie diicken. Pour a cream sauce over the whole, or serve the sauce apart. A fowl a year dd should be parboiled before saut6ing. CREOLE CHICKEN Joint a young fowl; season with salt and pqiper and saut^ to a golden brown in hot salt pork fat or butter, together with two onions sliced thin. When all are well browned, remove the fowl and cook one fourth a cup of flour in the fat; then add one cup each, of white stock and tomato pulp and in this simmer the fowl imtil tender, adding more stock if needed. Arrange the joints in a drde upon the serving-dish. To the sauce add a table- spoonful of tarragon vinegar and other seasonings as required, strain and reheat in it one fourth a pound of macaroni, cooked and blanched. With this fill in the centre of the cirde. Garnish with Celfery leaves or parsley. CASSEROLE OF CHICKEN Disjoint a yomig chicken. Heat three tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan and saute in it the chicken and a small onion and half a carrot, both cut in slices. In a casserole put the chicken, and one cup and a half of white stock; cover dosely and let cook three fourths an hour, or until nearly tender. Add a dozen potato- balls, cut with French cutter and browned; half a dozen mushroom FRICASSEE Of CHICKEN 163 caps, peeled and saut6d in butter; one third a cup of sherry wine, and a piece of bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper, let cook ten minutes, remove the fat and serve in the casserole. A strip of brown paper, or cotton cloth is often spread with flour paste and pressed over the joining of the cover and dish to keep in the flavor while cooking. Pigeons, birds, partridges, etc., are cooked in the same manner. Small button onions after being parboiled are often added. The chicken and vegetables may be sauted in a frying-pan and then removed to the casserole. Or this preliminary saute- ing may be omitted. Fowl, birds, pigeons, partridges, Belgian hare, chops, beef, or venison steak may be cooked in the same manner; Green peas are often used in place of the potato balls^ especially with pigeons or chops. Bacon fat is often used in the preliminary sauteing and inch pieces of cooked sliced bacon are added with the meat to the casserole. Fowl and hare are cut in joints, pigeons and partridges are halved, and birds left whole. FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN Separate a chicken weighing about three pounds and a half into pieces at the joints, and wipe carefully with a damp cloth, washing any pieces that require it; put into a saucepan with a quart of cold water, an onion with a clove pressed into it, a kitchen bouquet and half a teaspoonful of salt. Bring the water quickly to the boiling Doint, let boil ten minutes, skim off the coagulated juices that rise to the top, lest they settle upon the chicken and cause it to look unsightly, then move to a cooler part of the range and let simmer until the chicken is tender. Drain the chicken from the broth. Melt one third a cup of butter, add one third a cup of flour, and salt and pepper as needed, and when blended add the chicken broth gradually, first straining out the vegetables; let simmer fifteen minutes; iDcat two tablespoonfuls of butter to a cream, then beat in the yolks of four eggs, one at a time, dilute with a little of the hot sauce, return the mixture to the saucepan, put in the pieces of chicken and let heat over hot water. Arrange the pieces of chicken on the serving dish as in "Chicken Saute with Cauliflower," and pour over the sauce. A dozen small mush» rooms, prepared inthe usual manner (see page 289) and added with the chicken to the sauce, are an improvement to this dish. Garnish the edge of the dish with toast points. i64 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING STEWED CHICKEN WITH ASPARAGUS Stew a fowl, cut in joints, and season when half cooked. When tender keep hot while a bunch of asparagus is cooked in the broth. Remove the asparagus to a slice of toast. Thicken the liquid with flour, let simmer ten minutes, then stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs with a cup of cream; add seasoning, if needed, and a table- spoonful of lemon juice, and dispose the fowl about the asparagus. Pour the sauce over the asparagus and fowl. Garnish with toast points and asparagus tips. CHICKEN A LA BONNE-FEMME Prepare a chicken as for a fricassee; put half a cup of butter into a stewpan, add a sliced onion and carrot sliced, and saut6 five min- utes, stirring with a wooden spoon; put in the pieces of chicken dusted with salt and pepper and saut£ five minutes; add half a cup of flour and stir until blended, then add three cups of white broth or water and enough tomatoes, skin removed and broken into pieces, to make a cup; stir \mtil boiling, then simmer until tender. Add a dozen mushrooms prepared as usual and a table- spoonful of fine-chopped parsley with additional salt and pepper if needed. BOILED CHICKEN WITH TOMATO SAUCE Prepare and truss the chicken for boiling; rub it over on the out- side with a lemon cut in halves and cover securely with a buttered paper to keep the meat white, cook in the usual manner, and serve with three cups of tomato sauce. Use the chicken broth in making the sauce. STEAMED FOWL ON A MOUND OF RICE WITH MUSHROOMS Truss a fowl for boiling; rub with the cut side of a lemon and lay on slices of salt pork or bacon, and steam with an onion and two or three stalks of celery until tender — three hours or longer. Have ready a mound of boiled rice, seasoned with butter and salt, and dispose the fowl upon this. Arrange mushrooms cooked in the usual manner against the rice. Serve with the chicken liquor strained, thickened with a roux and enriched with two egg yolks, beaten with half a cup of cream. - Vv '^ '*» .fif-j HAM CROUTONS. (See page 146.) BOSTON BAKED BEANS. Garnish: Cucumber pickles, sliced and spread fan fashion. (See page 144.,* SAUSAGE WITH APPLE SAUCE. (See page 143.) COLD HAM, BAKED WITH CIDER, ON BED OF LETTUCE RIBBONS (See page 145.) COLD BOILED HAM, SLICED THIN Garnish: Nasturtium leaves and blossoms. CANVAS-BACK AND RED-HEAD DUCKS 165 CURRY OF CHICKEN, BELGIAN HARE, ETC. Cut a cleaned chicken or bare into pieces at the joints and season with salt, paprika and ginger. Let stand while three onions and two sour apples, with a kitchen bouquet, are fried in half a cup of butter or dripping to a golden brown; then put in the joints; cover the pan and let saut6 eight or ten minutes. Sprinkle in half a grated cocoanut, add the milk from the nut (or use a cup of almond milk, see page 31) stirred gradually into three tablespoon- fuls of flour, and one of curry powder, two red-pepper pods, cut in shreds; a pint of stock, or hot water, and the juice of a lemon, and let simmer one hour. Take up the joints of meat and keep them hot; pass the sauce through a very fine sieve. Form a border of boiled rice on a serving-dish and within it dispose the meat with the sauce poured over. GAME CANVASBACK AND RED-HEAD DUCKS Carefully draw, pick, and singe the birds; wipe very clean, or wash, if preferred, using salted water. In dressing leave on the head — and the feet, if desired — so that those familiar with ducks may know by the shape, etc., of the head what kind of a duck is presented. When drawing the birds, cut a lengthwise slit over the crop, and, after the windpipe and all other appendages have been removed and the duck carefully cleaned, pass the head through this opening into the inside of the duck, tfien reach in and pull it through, letting emerge at the opening, made in drawing, between the drumsticks. Run a threaded trussing needle through the leg the neck and out through the second leg, return to the first side in the same way, leaving a short stitch on flie opposite side; tie tightly to keep the head in place. When the duck is roasted, cut this stitch and draw out the threads by the knot on the other side. Cut off the wings at the second joint. If the feet be left on, dip them into scalding water and rub off the thin outer layer of skin. Twist the legs out of joint at the point where the flesh begins and double them backward on the upper part of the leg. Pass the tail through the vent. Authorities differ as to salting wild duck before cooking and basting while cooking, but all agree that the oven in which they are placed should be very hot. The time required for cookng is from eighteen minutes, for very rare, to forty minutes, for very well-done birds. Often wild duck are trussed in a manner similar i66 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING to fowl. A bunch of celery is thrust inside of the body, the neck is cut off close to the breastbone, and the skin is tiurned over and fastened down on the back with a stitch that holds the wings in place. The head, from which the eyes have been removed, is placed in the opening made in drawing the duck and fastened there by a thread passing through the legs and eye-sockets, which is returned in the same manner to the first leg and tied. PIGEONS STEWED IN BROTH Clean, singe, and truss the pigeons in the same manner as fowls. Cut as many sUces of bacon as pigeons into bits; put into a sauce- pan with a sliced onion, brown slightly, then put in the pigeons, a sprig or two of parsley, and a bay leaf; half cover with water or light stock and let simmer imtil tender, turning once or twice and adding salt and pepper and more liquid if needed. When tender, cut and draw the threads with which the birds were trussed, and dispose the pigeons in nests of hot spinach arranged on sUces of toast. Garnish with stuffed olives. Remove the fat from the broth, thicken it with flour smoothed in water, strain and use as a sauce. PIGEONS IN A CASSEROLE See chicken in casserole, (page 162). BROILED SQUABS Split the squabs through the back and breast, brush with melted butter, or lay a slice of bacon on each half and set into a hot oven ten minutes. If not browned enough, finish the cooking over clear coals. Serve on slices of toast moistened with dripping in the pan. GROUSE ROASTED (DARK MEAT) Truss as chicken, put a piece of butter inside each bird and roast in a hot oven from twenty to thirty minutes, basting frequently with melted butter, or fat from salt pork. When about cooked — dark-meated game is served rare — season with salt and dredge with flour. Serve on moistened toast, spread with the liver cooked, mashed fine and seasoned with butter, salt, and pepper, and a few drops of lemon juice. Serve with apple sauce. Bread sauce, or clear gravy may be served in a dish apart. If bread sauce accom- pany the roast, sprinkle the bird with bread crumbs browned in butter, VENISON 167 BROILED GROUSE Cut the grouse in halves through the breast and back, season and dip in oil, or melted butter and then in bread crumbs, and broil in a double-broiler over a moderate fire, turning when well done on the flesh side. When done spread with maitre d'h6tel butter. QUAILS ROASTED (WHITE MEAT) Truss the quails with the legs standing upward, in other respects the same as a chicken. Lard the breast and draw two lardoons into each leg. Cover the legs and the feet, when these are retained, with salt pork and bake ^teen to twenty minutes basting very often. If the breast be not larded, cover with a thin bit of bacon or pork. Serve on moistened toast with currant jelly, or with bread sauce. Quails are often broiled. PARTRIDGE, ROASTED, BROILED AND BOILED (WHITE MEAT) Truss and roast the same as a chicken, basting frequently. It will take about forty minutes to cook. Serve with bread, or Bechamel sauce. Prepare for broiling the same as chicken, brush over the inside with ok or melted butter and broil about twenty- five minutes on the flesh side, then brown on the skin side. The fire needs be moderate, and the broiling may be done to advantage in the oven, as partridge need basting very often, the meat being dry. Partridge boiled or served in a fricassee (white) are very good. VENISON Cuts of venison correspond to those of mutton. The haunch, or leg, and thef saddle are roasted. In roasting the saddle,the flank may be removed or not. When retained, a few stalks of celery may be rolled in each flank; these are then trussed or skewered close to the backbone . Thus treated the saddle presents a good appearance — but the flank is much more edible when it is stewed, or made into a ragout — and the roast requires longer cooking. To serve, cut the meat in slices parallel to tie backbone, then turn the knife and separate the shces from the bones below. Cut the tenderloin beneath in the same way, the roast being reversed upon the serving dish for the purpose. Or the tenderloin may be cut and put back in place before the roast is sent to the table. Serve with currant i68 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING jelly and an endive, or escarole salad. Rings of tart apple cooked in syrup make an attractive garnish for roast venison. The haunch is usually soaked in a marinade several days before cooking. VENISON STEAK AND CUTLETS Venison steak and cutlets are broiled, or pan-broiled as beefsteak. Being dry, they are usually served with a sauce. Cunant jelly and Bernaise sauces are suitable. QUAIL ROASTED IN QRAPE LEAVES (PICAYUNE'S CREOLE COOK BOOK) 6 fine quail. The juice of i lemon. 2 tablespoonsf uls of butter. 6 slices of buttered toast 1 tablespoonful of water. 12 grape leaves. Green grape jelly. Butter the inside of the singed, cleaned, and wiped quail and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, rub Ughtly on the outside with butter, then truss and wrap the birds in fresh grape leaves; set on the rack in a baking pan, put the butter in the pan and roast the birds from twenty to thirty minutes. Have ready the slices of buttered toast, add the butter, water, and lemon juice to the gravy in the pan, let cook three or four minutes, strain and set on the fire two minutes longer, then pour over the breasts of the birds. "The grape leaves impart a very peculiar and grateful flavor to the quail." Serve the jelly with the quail. BELGIAN HARE Belgian hare are served roasted, braised in stews ajid en casserole. They are also particularly good separated into joints and made into a curry, or cooked as chicken a la Maryland. If the hare be stuffed (bread, or green herb stuffing) longer roasting is required. For roasting, the head may be retained and the legs cut off at the first joint, or the head may be removed. Cut the sinews beneath the legs, truss, or skewer the hind legs toward the head, and bring the forelegs backward toward the hind ones, holding them in position with a skewer, or trussing needle passed through the leg and body. Brush over the outside with bacon fat or dripping, cover the back with slices of slitted bacon (see Veal Loaf, page 136), tying them in place, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; roast about BELGIAN HARE EN CASSEROLE 169 half an hour, basting every five minutes. When done remove the hewers or strings and garnjsh with water cress alone, or with a slice or two of tomato. Serve with a thick brown sauce, diluted with two tablespoonfuls of port wine and one tablespoonful of red- currant jelly to each cup of sauce. Add also the blanched liver cut in slices. The fillets and tops of the legs may be larded; in this case cover the larding with buttered paper imtil the last five minutes of cooking, then remove to crisp the lardoons. Green gooseberry sauce may be served apart in the place of the brown sauce. BELGIAN HARE EN CASSEROLE Separate the dressed hare into pieces at the joints; season with paprika and salt and saute in one fourth a cup of butter and two or three slices of bacon, cut in small square pieces, to a golden brown; put the meat into the casserole with a cup of port wine, or claret, and put on the cover. Let stand in the oven about half an hour, then add a pint of stock, hot water, or thickened sauce, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, half a sweet red-pepper pod, and a kitchen bouquet; spread a paper or cloth covered with paste over the joining of lid and cover and cook in a very moderate oven about kJiree hours. Remove the bouquet before serving. Two dozen Dlanched button onions or sauted mushrooms may be added with the stock. CHAPTER VI Soups and Soup Making "Muse, sing the man that did to Paris go, That he might taste their soups, and mushrooms know." "French cookery owes its superiority over that of other nations only te (the excellence of French) bouillon." — Aiexandee Dumas. "Ab nihUo, nihil fit." Ix is written that the chefs of France in the time of Louis, Le Grand Monarqtie, devised boiiillon and consoinm6 because mastica- tion was considered vulgar. In reality, the French use of broth in cookery was occasioned by necessity. For France at that time was lacking in oil, butter, and the animal fats used with spices by other nations for the production of moist dishes of richness and flavor. The French learned many things in cookery from the Italians, but neither the ancients nor the Italians had ever made any application of the broth of meat in general cookery. The origin of soups in their simpler forms dates back to the childhood of the world. Tyler, in his " Early History of Mankind," refers repeatedly to flesh cooked by the process of "stone-boiling," : in the paunch or hide of the slaughtered beast; and he says, "For drink they have the broth of the meat." According to the his- torians, those peoples who cooked their food in this way ranked a grade higher in civilization than they who simply broiled or roasted their meat ova: the fire, the earliest and amplest form of cookery. When we fed that the larger part of a day is too much time to be consumed in making soup stods, it may be comforting to consider for a moment the time and labor involved in "stone- boiling." Into the hide were put water and the flesh to be cooked and then the stones, made hot in the fire, were dropped in to re- main until they became cool, when others were put in their places. Soups are classified first, in accordance with the presence or absence of "stock" as a foimdation. By stock, in soup making, is meant those juices and soluble portimis of meat, or fish, together 170 SOUPS AND sou:? MAKING 171 ith soluble portions of bone and vegetables, which have been tracted by slow cooking and stored for future use. This material more or less solid after it has become cold, according to the ilatmous nature of the ingredients and the proportions of meat fish and water it contains. Bouillon and consomme belong to is class of soups. Soups, made without stock as a basis, are called soups maigre, om a French word meaning lean, or poor. The pottage for which 3au sold his birthright was probably a soup of this kind, being ade of the red lentils of Egypt. Many soups of this class, how- 'er, are often made with stock as a part of the liquid. The following outline may serve as a guide to the proper under- anding of the subject: {Standard broth. Bouillon. Consommfi. Miscellaneous. Unclassified. f , . I Flam purfie. ^"P'- Wavbemade f^"'^^" r'"^"^" IMay De made 1 (.Cream. ^without stock. \ Chowder. (^Unclassified. Fruit soups are quite generally used on the continent of Europe, ore particularly in Germany. In this country they are used iefly as an appetizer, or at a luncheon. Besides the general names i^en above, soups receive special names from their color: as white, own, or amber; or from the garnishing used, as macaroni, noodle, juhenne. Soups are thin or thick according to the absence or presence of iterial that gives body, or consistence to the liquid. This iterial is either roux (see page ar), blond or brown, according the color of the soup, meuniere, i.e., flour, cornstarch, or arrow- ot mixed with water, one tablespoonful of the former to four of e latter, egg yolks beaten and diluted with cream or milk, two Iks to half a cup of liquid, or starchy material, as barley, rice, go, tapioca. iRoux Meunifire Egg yolks Grains, Tapioca, etc. 172 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Roux may be added to any soups that have not been clarified. It is usually added to soups made of the legumes, or potatoes. Stir a little of the hot soup gradually into the roux, and when smoothly diluted stir the mixture into the soup kettle; stir con- tinuously until the soup boils, then let simmer ten minutes. Add the meuniSre in the same manner as the roux, but let cook at least twenty minutes in the soup. Arrowroot may be iwed in a clear soup — a level tablespoonful to a quart — flour, cornstarch, or arrowroot may be used in other soups. To beaten yolks of eggs diluted with liquid add gradually a little of the hot soup, then stir into the soup, which should not be let rise to boiling point, stir until the egg looks cooked, then turn at once into the tureen. If the soup boils after the egg is added, it will present a ciurdled appearance. Rice or barley is often cooked in a chicken or mutton soup: sago and tapioca may be used in almost any soups, excepting cream soup, pur6es and the like. These may be cooked in a little water and added to the soup, or cooked in the stock. A clear soup is a most fitting and agreeable prelude to a cere- monial dinner. It is a savor to health before any dinner, as it is quickly absorbed by the linings of the stomach and gently stimulates that organ to take care of the more substantial nourishment that is to follow. A cream soup, pur6e, bisque, or chowder is sub- stantial in itself and may fittingly form the chief article of a meal for rich or poor alike. SOUPS WITH STOCK As cream soups are a means of utilizing whatever vegetables are left over from a previous meal, or day, so many a soup made from stock furnishes an opportunity to use up the "odds and ends" of meat and bone that accumulate from (Jay to day. Indeed, if we are to get all the nutriment possible from oiu" various food supplies, it is absolutely necessary to take a part of our food in the form of soup. Now, by this we do not wish to imply that the stock pot, or the soup kettle, should be steaming over the fire all the tune. Except on some of the hottest summer days, the various odds and ends may be kept on hand for several days, until a sufiScient amount is collected, Uien they may be cooked at once, and the liquor strained and set aside. On no account keep the kettle over the fire day after day. Soups in perfection cannot be drawn from such a source. TRUSSED TURKEY, FEET RETAINED TO SHOW TENDONS DRAWN FROM FIRST JOINT. (See page 153.) CHICKEN DRESSED FOR BROILING. (See page 161.) BACK OF CHICKEN TRUSSED FOR ROASTING 'See page 153.) ROAST TURKEY. Garnish of sausage cakes and celery. (See page 154. J STEAMED FOWL ON A MOUyD OF RICE AND MUSHROOMS. (See page 164.) FRENCH MATERIALS USED IN MAKING STOCK 173 MATERIALS USED IN MAKING STOCK Every kind of meat, as beef, mutton, lamb, veal, poultry, game, :., may be used in stock making, either alone or in cornbination. In large families, where roasts of beef, mutton or poultry are ten weekly, but little fresh meat need be purchased for soups, less it be for some formal occasion, when a handsome, clear soup desired. Yet remember that "ab nihUo, nihil fit." As the individual or distinctive flavor of different kinds of meat more highly developed in a cooked than in an uncooked state, d as browned meats give a corresponding color to soup, it is Ql, particularly in making brown stock, to brown a portion of e meat used in making stock for clear soups. A small quantity of fat is a wholesome addition to any soup. A It of this will be absorbed by the stock during the cooking proc- i, and the part that is not thus absorbed will rise to the top, rming a solid cake, which may be removed when the stock is cold. When imcooked meats are used for a soup, the marrow found in e shin of the hindquarter is the best form of fat that can be itained. In soups made from remnants, the browned fat of asts gives a good flavor, and occasionally a bit of ham or bacon ay be used; only two or three ounces, however, for a large dish of up, as in a perfectly flavored soup no one savor should pre- )minate. Expensive cuts of beef are not so well adapted to soup making as le dheaper pieces. The blood flows more freely to those parts of ;e creature that are in constant use, and, though this use toughens e muscles, the life-giving jmces are there, and long, slow cooking ill remove them. Select then, for stock, the imder part of the und, the vein, neck, flank, cheek, and shin, tough and inexpensive eces, but full of nutriment. In making fish stock for general use in fish soups or entries, select e white-blooded varieties. The head and trimmings are valuable cause they contain gelatinous material, often desirable, and also nsiderable flesh, but, aside from this, solid pieces of fish contain- y the albuminous juices are needed. Salmon, lobster, and other i-blooded fish need be used with discretion. As a general rule, that which is extracted from bones is the least sirable element that enters into a soup; particularly is this the se with beef bones, and if there be no bits of meat upon the bones, ere woidd seem to be little reason for including them in soup iking. If bone be used and the liquid be cooked at a high tern- 174 PR^VCTICAL COOKING AND SERVING perature, lime is dissolved into the soup, giving it a cloudy appear- ance. The bones of chicken and veal are rich in delicate gelatine, and this is often desirable to give body to a soup. Gelatine is also a preservative agent, as stock that jellies, air being excluded, keeps much better than stock in a Hquid form. THE SOUP KETTLE In making stock all the nutriment and flavors possible are to be drawn out from the various ingredients and retained in the stock; but when once the volatile odors of fowl, vegetable and herb have escaped from the saucepan and permeated the house, we cannot bring them back again to the soup plate and this appetizing aroma is lost. So often nothing is left for serving but a thin, watery hquid, in appearance gray and cloudy from the lime extracted from the bones. First of all, then, let the soup kettle be fiurnished with a tight-fitting cover. And, moreover, let this utensil be of agate, or graniteware and as nearly free from blemishes as possible. For acid, found in all flesh, attacks unprotected iron, and thus gives an inky color to the soup. Scrupulous cleanliness is just as essential to Uie making of a fine-flavored soup as in the making of a fine cup of coffee. Both the coffee-pot and the soup kettle must be scoured frequently and well aired after each use. TEMPERATURE AND TIME OF COOKING The first step in soup making consists in drawing out the soluble juices and flavoring constituents into the water; the second step is in keeping that which has been drawn out in a wholesome and agreeable condition. Since cold water is best fitted to extract juices, cut the meat, after wiping the outside with a damp cloth, into small bits, in order that as much surface as possible may be brought into contact with the water. Break or saw the bones into small pieces, put into the kettle and add cold water as it is required. After the meat has stood half an hour, or until the water is well colored, place the kettle over the fire and gradually heat the contents to the boiling point and skim; then, in accordance with what has been said before in regard to the coagulation of albumen and other juices of flesh at a temperature below i8o° Fahr., and the loss of delicacy and digestibility when cooked at higher temperature, let the contents of soup kettle gently simmer, or bubble slowly and constantly five or six hours. JELLYING STOCK J7S A celebrated cook once said: "Let the contents of the soup digester boil but once and the soup is ruined." To some this may seem an extravagant statement; but it loses all such significance, when one stops to consider the delicate flavor, the bright sparkle, and rich clearness of a consomme, or an amber soup that has been cooked at a low temperature, while all are familiar with the strong odor and the cloudy appearance of a soup that has been cooked at a temperature such that the lid of the kettle, when removed, was found covered with particles of coagulated albumen, deposited there by the furiously "galloping" liquid. Cook, then, meat at a low temperature; cook until it is in rags and colorless, the juice and flavor having been withdrawn. About one hoiur before this stage is reached add the vegetables and season- ing. Strain off the liquor from the bones, meat, and vegetables, pressing out every drop of juice, and set aside where it will cool quickly. If the fowl, or any portion of the meat used in soup making, is to be served apart, wait until the contents of the kettle are heated to about 170° Fahr., then put in that which you wish to serve apart from the soup, and allow it to cook at this low temperature until it becomes tender, then remove at once. JELLYING STOCK Stock, whether made from fresh meat, or from odds and ends, solidifies when it becomes cold, if it contains a goodly amount of gelatine. This constituent of meat, in the flesh, tendons and bones of young animals, is more soluble than it is in those of more mature age. It is found largely in the bones and tendons, but there is also a considerable quantity in the connective tissues of the lean meat. It takes, moreover, a higher degree of heat to extract gelatine from meat than some other oomstituesnts. A bouillon, therefore, made entirely of lean meat, wiU jelly or become solid, if there be taken a pound of meat to a pint of water and the juices be extracted at a temperature between 180" and 200° Fahr. Stock tJiat jellies may be kept longer than that in a liquid state, as the air does not penetrate it readily. This is the case, more especially, if the stock be strained into bowls of a size convenient for future use and the covering of fat be kept intact- The addition of vegetables is not desirable, tf the stock is to be kept, for the juices of vegetables sour more quickly than the juices of meat. 176 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING PROPORTIONS OF VARIOUS INGREDIENTS In what is known as standard broth (bouillon) of beef, mutton, or fowl, etc., each pint of broth contains tJie soluble part (in simmer- ing water) of one poxmd of fresh meat, with or without bones; this broth needs never be concentrated, but it may be diluted. To secure this broth requires not over three cups of water to each pound of meat, without bone. When bone is used, which takes up at least one fourth the entire weight, one pint of water to each pound of meat and bone as sent from the market will allow for evaporation and keep the correct proportion. When the broth is finished, hot water may be added, if the quantity does not equal the standard. Add for each quart of broth one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sweet herbs and one tablespoonful, each, of the vegetables desired, a sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, three or four peppercorns, or a blade of mace may also be added at discretion. When the stock is made from "left overs," the amount of sea- soning shoiild be the same per quart, but the quantity of water should be reduced to just enough to cover the ingredients. As the quantity of alkaline and acid salts is larger in the blood, and juices of uncooked than of cooked fiesh, it is well to add a small portion of raw, lean meat to stock made from the remnants of cooked food. On this account, it is advisable to remove the flank ends of steaks and chops and add them, uncooked, to the soup kettle. KINDS OF SOUP STOCK Brown soup stock is made from dark colored meats and various vegetables. A part of the meat, or fish and vegetables, is browned before it is added to the water. White soup stock is made from light-colored meats, as veal and chicken; no vegetables that give color are used. Onion and celery are the vegetables most often used in making white soup stock. The stock may be thickened, or served without thickening. In hot weather stock needs to be scalded each day, but in winter it will keep several days. CLEARING STOCK Sometimes a soup is served that presents a dear, sparkling ap- pearance, or stock is moulded into a clear jelly (aspic). To secure this condition, the stock is cleared. For this purpose a substance rich in albumen, as the whites of eggs, also the shells to which VEGETABLE STOCK FOR SOUP MAIGRE 177 msiderable white adheres, or raw meat, chopped fine, are used. 1 ordinary home cooking, the whites and shells of eggs are oftenest >ed. Suppose the stock has been made according to the direction given jove and is now cold. Remove the fat; if the stock has jellied, ring a cloth out of warm water and gently wipe over the surface; le doth will take up any particles of fat remaining upon the jelly, the stock be liquid, lay a piece of tissue paper upon it, press it jhtly upon the liqiud and the fat will adhere to it. Now very irefully take off the top of the stock, leaving the portion that is ss clear and contains sediment in the bottom of the dish, for some ;her variety of soup. To each three cups of stock add the crushed lell and the white of one egg, slightly beaten; mix together thor- ighly and set over the fire to heat, stirring all the time until the juid boils. As the liquid becomes heated, the egg coagulates, )mbining with itself any fine particles floating in the stock, these either brings to the top of the liquid, or it si^s with them to the Dttom. Let boil vigorously five minutes, then add half a cup of )ld water and set the saucepan aside, or on the back of the range ir about five minutes. Skim carefully, then strain through cheese- oth spread over a colander or sieve. Reheat and serve. If it be desired to use the stock before it has become thoroughly jld and the fat " set," with a spoon dip the fat from the top, then ut a piece of ice wrapped in a cloth into the stock, holding it near le top, and the remaining fat will cling to the cloth and may be :moved with the ice. VEGETABLE STOCK FOR SOUP MAIQRE 2 pounds of onions 5 quarts of water. (sis large onions). z tablespoonfuls of salt. 2 pounds of carrots. J red-pepper or I head of celery. i teaspoonful of peppercorns. 3 sprigs of parsley. 4 cloves. I J cups of dripping or butter. i quart of dried peas or beans. Saut6 the vegetables, cut in pieces, in the dripping to a delicate :own color; add the water, cloves, and the legumes that have been aked over night, parboiled ten minutes, rinsed and drained. Let )il once, then simmer until tender. Strain, let cool, remove the t and use as any stock. 178 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING STANDARD BROTH (FISH) 3 pounds of white fish. i bay leaf. 3 pints of water. 4 sprigs of parsley. 1 sliced onion. i red-pepper pod. i sliced carrot. 3 cloves. 2 stalks of celery. Salt. Cut the fish in pieces and add the other ingredients; let boil, then skim and simmer about an hour and a half; strain and use as any stock. The vegetables may be browned in butter, or drippings, thus giving a brown stock. In practice, the heads and trimmings of fish with a little solid flesh are used for soup making. The broSi may be clarified for consomm6, or thickened with a roux and cream added for a cream soup, or the flesh may be passed through a sieve and added to make a fish purfe. Fish soups are garnished with pieces of vegetable or fish quenelle? FISH CONSOMME PRINTANIER Clarify standard fish broth with white and shells of eggs, or chopped fish; strain, reheat, and add as a garnish any early spring vegetables left whole, or cut in cubes, or juliennes and cooked. Peas, pieces of string beans, asparagus tips, carrot or tiurnip slices are among the vegetables so used. FORMULA FOR THREE PINTS OF STANDARD BROTH (beef, veal, chicken, mutton or game) 4 pounds of meat (one fourth bone). J sweet pepper. 4 pints of cold water. ij teaspoonfuls of sweet herbs ij teaspoonfuls of salt. (marjoram, thyme, etc.). lo or 12 peppercorns or i sprig of parsley. 4 cloves. ( carrot. i^ tablespoonfuls, each of < onion. ' celery, bay leaf. i§ tablespoonfuls of turnip at dis- cretion. Prepare according to directions previously given; celery seed, or root may take the place of fresh celery; meat for stock needs be very fresh. Soups from broth may be varied indefinitdy by changes in consistency and garnish, one or both. CX)NSOMME 179 BROWN SOUP STOCK Brown soup stock is standard broth made qf beef with part of the beef and vegetables browned to give color. S^ut€ the meat in marrow, or drippings (the best marrow is found in the hind shin), slowly and carefully, to avoid burning the meat. Meantime, let the rest of the meat, cut in small cubes, soak in cold water. After the sauted meat has been added to the soup kettle, let the frying-pan stand in a warm place, partly filled with liquid from the soup kettle and thus insure melting from the pan all the browned material that is to give color to the soup. Saute the vegetables about an hour and a half before the stock is cooked and add to the kettle with the other seasoning. Rinse out the pan and add as before to the soup kettle. When cooked, strain and set aside to cool. If a large quantity of stock be prepared, strain into several dishes, holding the quantity needed for a meal, and narrow rather than flat, that there may be fat enough to form a covering for each. BOUILLON This is the same as standard beef broth, omitting the bone from the meat. A cup of canned tomato, or two fredi tomatoes £ire sometimes added with the vegetables. Bouillon is usually, though not always, clarified (see Clearing of Stock, page 176). C0NS0MM6 {caiTot. onion. celery. 3 lbs. of knuckle veal. I bay leaf. Marrow, if at hand. a sprigs of parsley. 3 or 4 lbs. of fowl. I teaspoonful of sweet herbs. X ounce of lean ham. i tablespoonful of salt. 3§ quarts of water. 10 peppercorns. Saut6 part of the beef and all of the veal, cut in inch cubes in the marrow, or drippings (that from the top of the stock kettle pre- ferred), until a delicate amber color; add a quart of water and let simmer about an horn: or imtil nearly evaporated, forming a glaze on the bottom of the soup kettle; then add the rest of tie meat, the bone, if desired, the ham and the water, and heat slowly to the boiling point; skim, add the fowl and let simmer until the fbwl i8o PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING is tender; remove the fowl for other use and add the seasoning with the vegetables saut&i without coloring; let simmer about an hour then strain and set aside to cool. When cold remove the fat, add additional seasoning, if desired, and clarify the stock. ENGLISH BEEF SOUP J pound of tender beef. i quart of standard beef broth. J an onion in rings. i cup of cooked carrot. 2 stalks of celery cut transversely, i cup of cooked barley. 1 cup of boiling water. i tablespoonful of Worcestershire 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, sauce. I tablespoonful of tomato catsup. Salt and pepper. Cut the beef in squares and brown with the onions and celery in butter, marrow, or drippings; add the boiling water and braise vmtil the meat is tender, then add the flour, mixed with water to pour; let cook ten or fifteen minutes; then add the hot broth, barley, and carrot, with the catsup, sauce salt, and pepper. CHICKEN SOUP 1 quart of standard chicken broth i cup of cream. (flavored with onion, celery, Salt and pepper, sweet herbs, etc.). Whites of two eggs. X pint of milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of fine, quick- 3 yolks of eggs. cooking tapioca. Scald the broth, stir in the tapioca and let cook over hot water (double-boiler) until transparent; add the milk scalded, remove from the fire and stir in the beaten yolks diluted with the cream; let thicken without boiling, then turn into the tureen, adding salt and pepper; arrange on the top the whites of the eggs, beaten dry, with a few grains of salt, and poached, by spdonfuls, in hot water, or milk; or serve in bouillon cups with a spoonful of the poached white on the top of each cup. WHITE ALMOND SOUP 2 quarts of standard veal broth. 2 ounces of almonds. 1 tablespoonful of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch. I cup of cream. Cream together the butter and cornstarch and dilute with hot stock gradually; let boil five minutes, then stir into the rest of the stock; add the hot cream, more seasoning, if needed, and the almonds blanched and pounded fine in a mortar. LETTUCE SOUP i8i OXTAIL SOUP 3 oxtails. 2 stalks of celery. J cup of drippings. Red pepper. \ cup of flour. I small onion. 4 quarts of standard broth, or com- i cup of carrot. mon stock. i cup of turnip. Parsley, bay leaf. Salt. Worcestershire sauce. Separate the tails at the joints into pieces; saut€ in the drippings a brown color, add the flour and, when blended, the stock; let )il once, then simmer imtil the meat is tender, adduig the parsley, ly leaf, and piece of red pepper wrapped in the celery stalks. lute the onion cut in slices, these separated into rings, and the rrot and turnip, each, cut into balls, or fanciful shapes, in hot ippings, then add water and cook until tender. Remove the fat id the bouquet from the soup, thicken, if desired, with roux, or mstarch mixed with cold water, add the drained vegetables and It and Worcestershire sauce to taste. TOMATO SOUP I quart of standard beef broth or Onion juice. 1 quart of stock made from left- Celery salt, overs, or water in which mutton Fine-chopped parsley. has been cooked. 2 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch. 1 quart of tomatoes. Macaroni. 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. Salt and pepper. Press the tomatoes through a sieve; bring the pulp to a boiling lint, add the cornstarch, diluted with cold water to pour, the gar, onion juice, celery salt, and parsley, if used; let cook ten inutes and add the hot brolJi, season and serve. Garnish with ch pieces of cooked macaroni, or with egg balls, noodles, chicken lenelles, or yolks of egg poached in water just "off the boil." LETTUCE SOUP I large head of lettuce. i teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonfuls of butter. } teaspoonful of pepper. } teaspoonful of sugar. 5 cups of broth or water, } teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. Yolks of 3 eggs. \ cup of cream. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. i82 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Chop the lettuce and saute in the butter with the sugar and vinegar; add the flour, and, when blended with the butter, the broth or water gradually; when the lettuce is tender, add the yolks beaten and diluted with the cream; let thicken without boiling. Serve with croutons. CLEAR QREEN TURTLE SOUP Have ready five cups of rich broth, made of beef and chicken or veal, flavored with celery, onion, parsley, carrot and two or three leaves of sweet basil, if available. The broth must be freed of all fat. To this add the liquid from a can of clear green turtle (the part of young turtles adjoining the shell) and the slightly beaten whites of two eggs, with the crushed shells, and the thin yellow rind of half a lemon. Stir constantly imtil the liquid boUs up vigorously, let simmer five minutes, then draw to a cooler part of the range to settle. Strain through a napkin wrung from hot water. Add the green tvurtle, cut in small cubes, and reheat with- out boiling, when it is ready to serve. If desired, at the last moment before serving add three or four tablespoonfuls of Madeira wine. The soup is often served without clarifying with the whites of eggs. TOMATO AND QREEN PEA SOUP (B. COOKING SCHOOL) I cup of green peas. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. I cup of tomatoes. Salt and pepper. 1 quart of seasoned stock. J cup of cooked peas. 2 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch. Crisped crackers. Cook the peas and tomatoes until tender in water to cover; press through a sieve and add to the stock; when boiling dilute the corn- starch with cold liquid to pour and stir into the hot soup ; let simmer ten minutes; add the butter in bits, stirring well; add the salt, pepper, and cooked peas. Serve with crisped crackers. SOUP OFTEN MADE WITHOUT STOCK PUREES The word pur6e is used to include cream soups, bisques, and plain pur6es. The latter are thick soups, in which lie puree predomi- nates and milk or cream is not used as a rule. Plain pur&s are PUREE OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES 183 made of legumes, chestnuts, chicken, or game. They do not call for a roux or other binding agent, though flour and butter cooked together may be used. The thickness of the soup comes from the representative ingredient. All these soups are very nutritious; consequently they should not be served at dinner as a first course, and be followed by other and more substantial dishes, unless the soup be presented for the same reason that Abigail Adams, the economical and thrifty wife of our second President, is said to have served the commeal pudding before the roast — i.e., to save the roast. They are appropriately served as luncheon sonps and are particularly good for children and old people. PUREE OF CHICKEN i cup of pork lardoons. 2} quarts of cold water. i cup of chopped onion. i pound of wliite bread. i cup of chopped carrot. Salt. Mace. Paisley with thyme and buy leaf. x ounce of blanched almoodE. 1 four-pound fowl. i pint of milk. 3 ounces of butter. Put the krdoons, onion, carrot, and the parsley, famished, into the soup kettle, with the fowl above them ; add one pmt of the water and let slowly reduce to a glaze, then add the rest of the water; let boil once, then simmer until the chicken is tender. Remove tiie chicken and pound the meat (without skin, fat, or bone) with the bread cnmib, moistening with the broth as needed. Season with salt and mace and press through a pur6e sieve; reheat without boiling, add one pint of almond rmlk, and, when ready to serve, stir in gradually the butter. Serve small chicken quenelles made from part of the breast ia the soup. To make the almond milk, pound the freshly blanched almonds in the mortar, adding a little milk to moisten, then heat with the milk and press through a napkin. PUREE OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES a pounds of artichokes. i teaspoonful of salt. 2 onions. 2 quarts of standard broth, i cup of flour. 3 yolks of eggs. I teaspoonful of sugar. i cup of cream. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Pare the artichokes and cook with the onions until tender; then mash and press through a sieve; add with the water in which they i84 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING were cooked to the broth; dilute the flour, sugar, and salt with a little cold broth and stir into the hot soup and let simmer twenty minutes. When ready to serve, add the butter in little bits, then the beaten yolks diluted with the cream. Do not let the soup boil after the addition of the eggs. SPLIT PEA, LENTIL, OR BEAN PUREE (dried legumes) I pint of dried legumes. 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, t onion. Salt and pepper. J head of celery. i can of strained tomatoes, or A ham bone if at hand. i cup of cream if desired. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. Soak the legumes over night in cold water; wash, drain, and simmer in three pints of water, stirring often with a wooden spoon and adding more water as evaporation necessitates. If a ham bone be used, put on to cook at the same time as the legumes. When the vegetables are becoming tender, saut6 the onion and celery, cut fine, in a little drippings and add to the soup; when all are tender, press through a puree sieve, reheat and stir in the butter and flour creamed together, or if cream or tomato be used, make into a sauce with the liquid and then add to the soup. Serve hot with croutons The flour may be omitted, if the settling of the pulp be thought unobjectionable. POTAQE PARMENTIER (POTATO PUR6E) I dozen potatoes. 3 cloves. 3 onions. 2 quarts of veal broth. 1 head of celery. Salt. Parsley. White part of a leeks. 3 yolks of eggs. 4 ounces of butter f cup of cream. (i cup). 2 ounces of butter. Fine-chopped chervil. Saut6 the potatoes, pared and sliced, with the onions, celery and leeks, also sliced, in the four oimces of butter tea minutes; add the cloves, broth salt, and parsley and cook until the potatoes are tender; then press through a fine sieve. Return to the fire, add more broth, if too thick, and let simmer twenty minutes, skimming as needed. Jnst befr"-e '^^dng add the beaten yolks, diluted with FORMULA FOR CREAM SOUPS 185 ! cream, and the two ounces of butter in little bits. Sprinkle er the soup in the tureen a little fine-chopped chervil. Serve th croutons. BAKED BEAN AND TOMATO PURINE i bay leaf. i tablespoonful of butter. i slices of onion. ^ tablespoonful of flour. 2 Stalks of celery. Croutons or buttered crackers I sprig of parsley. browned. I pint of Boston baked beans. i quart of water or light stock. I cup of thick tomato pur£e. Salt and paprika. Saut6 the onion, parsley, fine-cut celery and bay leaf in two jlespoonfuls of drippings; add the baked beans and the water, or )ck (made from left-overs) and let simmer half an hour, then pass rough the sieve and reheat. Melt the butter, in this cook the ur, add the tomato pur6e and, when boiling, season and stir into i bean puree. Serve with croutons, or browned crackers. CHESTNUT PUR^E (SOUP) Boil sixty blanched chestnuts in a quart of water, or light stock, in press while hot through a fine pur& sieve; add two quarts of ath, stir until the boiling point is reached, then simmer an hour; im and pour the soup into a tureen. Serve with croutons of ed bread. CREAM SOUPS FORMULA FOR CREAM SOUPS a cups of pur€e and liquid (cauliflower, asparagus, spinach, peas, etc.) ["i cup of flour. I i cup of butter. 2 cups of white sauce. < 2 cups of milk or part white stock. I I teaspoonful of salt. [i teaspoonful of pepper. ij an onion. I sprig of parsley. I stalk of celery, or tablespoonful of cdeiy leed. I sprig of mint (with peas). Additional nutriment when desired. -| , , ^ (. } cup of creaa. Milk and white stock to make of desired consistency. Salt and pepper as required. i86 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Of these soups, cream and bisque consist in the main of a simpla combination of a thin white sauce with vegetable, fish, or meat pulp thinned to the proper consistency by the addition of niilk, cream, or white stock. Almost any vegetable, fish, chicken, or game may be used in these soups; the vegetables, cut in pieces when it is neces- sary, with such as are used for flavoring, may be sauted, either with or without browning, in butter and drippings and then cooked in water until tender; or the preliminary sauteing may be dispensed with. When tender, press through a purfe sieve, using a wooden spoon or pestle. Moisten now and then with the liquid in which the vegetable was cooked, to facilitate the operation; dilute the meat or fish, cooked and pounded fine, with liquid and press through a pur6e sieve. If well-flavored stock be not at hand and nulk or water is to be used, cook a part of an onion, a stalk of celery, or a sprig of parsley with the vegetables. A sprig of naint is often cooked with the peas that are to be used for a cream of pea soup and a slice of onion, a stalk of celery or a handful of mushroom stalks and peelings, with the tomatoes for a tomato soup. A handful of spinach, boiled with the lettuce, peas, or asparagus to be used in these soups, will help give the green tint desirable in a soup made of green vegetables. The vegetable pulp and the liquid do not unite, or form a "liai- son," as the French cooks say, but the pulp settles to the bottom of the dish. To remedy this and give the soup a smooth, velvety consistency, a starchy material, as tapioca, cornstarch, or flour is added. Four tablespoonfuls of flour, or half that quantity of cornstarch or arrowroot for each quart of soup will suffice, especially if the yolks of the eggs are also used. Since the cream soups are in reality a combination of white sauce and fish, meat, or vegetable pulp, the blending ingredient may be added in either of the three ways in which such material is added to a sauce (see Sauces, page 209), ist, by cooking the flour and butter or drippings to a roux and then diluting with the cold liquid. 2nd. Cream the butter and flour together, dilute with a little of the hot liquid and, when smooth, stir into the hot liquid. 3d. Mix the flour with a little of the cold liquid and stir into the hot liquid. In the two latter methods, the soup needs simmer ten minutes after the starchy material is added. If milk or cream be added to the pulp of some vegetables, as asparagus, and the mixture be again heated to the boiling point, the soup is liable to assume a curdled appearance; hence, it is safer to add the hot milk or cream just before the soup is sent to the tabl«. CREAM SOUPS 187 "Whea. stock is used for these soups, nothing is gained by cooking the vegetables in the stock; but by so doing much is lost in volume and flavor. Cook the vegetables in water, and add the stock afterward. CREAM OF SORREL SOUP I cup of sorrel. J teaspoonful of pepper. i cup of water. 2 cups of standard bioth. i cup of butter. (Veal and chicken together or one J an onion. alone.) I cup of flour. ij cups of cream or milk. I teaspoonful of sugar. Yolks of two eggs. I teaspoonful of salt. § cup of cream. Boil the sorrel in the water ten minutes, drain and chop fine. Cook the onion, sliced, in the butter five minutes without browning; add the flour and, when smooth, the sorrel, sugar, salt, and pepper, when well mixed, add the stock; let boil once, then add the cream, scalded, and the yolks beaten and diluted with the half cup of cream. CREAM OF CORN SOUP Score each row of kernels with a sharp knife and press out the pulp; now cook the ears in a little cold water, and add this water, well reduced, to the pulp; let simmer ten minutes, then pass through the sieve into the sauce; add milk, or stock, salt, and pepper. When fresh com is not at hand, canned corn or, better still, komlet may be used. The proportions are: I pint of com pulp. i slice of onion. I quart oi white sauce. Salt and pepper. CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP I cup of dried Italian or Salt and pepper. I pint of fresh mushrooms. Milk, cream or white stock. J an onion. Yolks of two eggs, if desired. I pint of white sauce. Saut6 the fresh mushrooms with the onion, sliced, in a little butter without browning them. Then pound in a mortar, pass through the purfe sieve, and proceed as usual. If dried mush- rooms be used, let soak in cold water, add the onion, and let simmer imtil tender. i88 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING CREAM OF LIMA BEANS AND ONIONS Boil together one pint of lima beans — if dry breans be used they need be soaked over night — two onions, and two sprigs of parsley. To each pint of pulp and liquid allow a pint of white sauce and proceed as usual. A full pint of milk, or white stock, will also be required. OYSTER SOUP I quart of oysters. i an onion. I quart of milk. 2 sprigs of parsley. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. i teaspoonful of pepper. i cup of flour. Salt as needed. } cup of celery leaves and stalks. Pour a cup of cold water over the oysters and look them over carefully, to remove any bits of shell. Strain the liquor through a cheesecloth, then boil and skim; add to this the oysters, and let ^mmer until they look plump and the edges curl; then stir them into the sauce made by cooking the flour and the butter creamed together in the milk scalded with the onion, celery, and parsley, before adding the thickening to the milk. Part cream gives a much more delicious soup. If preferred, the oysters may be chopped, after parboiling, and pressed through a sieve. BISQUES Bisque is a soup of ancient origin, to which there are many allusions in old literary works. The old recipes for bisque begin with "Wash half a hundred crayfish"; for, in its first estate, the basis of a bisque was always crayfish, a small fresh-water crustacean resembling the lobster. At the present time we have come to use the word in a more general sense, applying it to a class of purees generally made of salt-water moUusks, or crustaceans, to which milk or cream is added, sometimes white stock, also tender bits of the fish cooked for the purfe. We also speak of "mock bisque soup," a soup having the general characteristics — particularly as regards color and consistency — of the original bisque, but want- ing in anything corresponding to the tender bits of crayfish that are so conspicuous in the original soup. We might, also, regardless of color, etc., have a bisque of mushrooms. Bisques were formerly thickened with boiled rice which was pounded with the flesh to a pulp and sifted into the hot milk. BISQUES 180 BISQUE OF LOBSTER t pound lobster. i quart of milk. i cup of butter. } cup of flour. I pint of light stock or water (liquor in which a fowl has been cooked). Cut the tender portions of the claws into small cubes and put them into the soup tureen with the bits of meat from the body bones and the green liver. Simmer the body bones and tough meat of the lobster in the stock or water half an hour. Chop or pound the meat from the tail and scald in the milk. Cream together the butter, seasoning, flour and sifted coral and cook in the hot milk ten minutes, stirring constantly until the milk thickens; pass through the pur€e sieve, strain into this the water, or stock in which the bones were sinmiered, reheat and pour into the tureen. BISQUE OF OYSTER SOUP I quart of oysters. i an onion. I teaspoonful of curry powder. i teaspoonfulof salt. i teaspoonful of paprika. 3 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch. Hot milk or cream as desired. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. Quickly heat the oysters to the boiling point in their own liquor, drain and strain the liquor; saut6 in the butter without browning the onion cut fine, add the seasoning (the curry may be omitted) and the cornstarch; when frothy dilute with the oyster liquor and let simmer ten minutes, then keep hot over hot water; poimd the oysters, then pass them through the pur6e sieve, and reheat in the sauce. When ready to serve, dilute to the consistency desured with hot milk or cream and pass through a sieve. Serve in each plate four or five. OYSTER FORCEMEAT BALLS } cup of cooked oysters. i cup of fresh mushrooms. J cup of bread crumbs. Yolk of egg. Peel the mushrooms, saut6 five minutes in a little butter, chop fine, add to the oyster pur&, or oysters, parboiled and chopped, with the sifted bread crumbs, salt and pepper and uncooked yolk of egg to bind the whole; roll into small balls, put on a buttered baking-sheet and cook five or six minutes in a hot oven, or poach in hot wab^ iQo PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING MOCK BISQUE SOUP I can or quart of tomatoes. i cup of flour. I tablespoonful of sugar. i quart of milk. J cup of butter. Salt and pepper. i teaspoonful of soda, if desired. Cook the tomatoes and sugar fifteen minutes; add the soda, if the tomatoes are very ripe, or have been long canned, otherwise omit, strain and reheat. Make a white sauce of the other in- gredients; add the tomato and serve at once with croutons. Okra is cultivated extensively in the South and West for its young pods, which are very mucilaginous. These are used prin- cipally in soups, but they are sometimes boiled and dressed like asparagus. In the South, the pods of some varieties grow from four to eight inches in length. The dwarf varieties, having shorter pods, are best suited to Northern gardens. The pods must be gathered when they are young and tender. They may be preserved, for winter use, by drying or canning; they are also "piit down" in salt, in the same manner as cucumbers. In the South, a soup or stew, made of chicken, oysters, etc., and thickened with these mucilagi- nous pods, is called "gumbo," a word thought to be of negro origin. Canned okra retails for about fifteen cents per can, and tiie gumbo powder for thirty cents per bottle. The powder is add^ just before serving the soup. aUMBO SOUP (FROM FRESH OKRA PODS) 3 tablespoonfuls of lard. i small pod of red pepper. 3 or 4 ounces of ham. J bay leaf. I fowl (about 4 pounds). 2 sprigs of thyme. I quart of green okra pods. Boiled rice. t onion sliced. Salt. i cup of flotir. 3 or 4 tomatoes. Disjoint the fowl, cut the ham in pieces and saut£ them in the hot lard to a golden brown: remove the chicken to a stewpan (iron must not be used with okra) and saut6 the onion and the okra pods cut in pieces; then add the flour and, when well blended with the fat, of which more may be needed, add gradually a quart of water; when boiling add to the chicken with another quart of water, the tomatoes, skins removed, the red pepper, bay leaf, thyme, and salt; let simmer, covered, very slowly until the fowl is cooked, adding more water if needed, also salt. In serving add a spoonful FISH CHOWDER 19, of boiled rice to eadi plate. Left-over fowl may be used for this soup. BRUNSWICK STEW (VIRGINIA) I gallon of hot water. 4 onions. 1 large chicken or 8 ears of corn 2 small chickens. i cup of butter. ij pints of tomato. i cup of bread crumbs. 2 slices of fat bacon. Salt and pepper. Into a saucepan, or soup kettle, put the onions chopped fine, the tomatoes, skin removed, cut into small pieces the bacon, which is to be removed when it has seasoned the stew, and the fowl, dis- jointed. Pour over the water and let simmer until the fowl is tender. Take out the fowl, discard the bones, skin, and gristle, choonful of salt. i cup of white stock. 3 tablespoonfuls of currant jelly. i tablespoonful of lemon juice. Cook the onion in the butter without browning; add the flour, curry powder, and salt mixed together; let cook three or four minutes, add the liquid, the currant jelly, and the lemon juice; strain and reheat. When convenient use cocoanut, or almond milk. To prepare, let half cup or more of blanched almonds, or cocoanut, chopped and pounded in a mortar, stand in a cup and a half of hot milk an hour or more. Keep the mUk hot, then strain through a cloth, pressing out the liquid from the nuts. CHEESE SAUCE (for halibut or other white fish, baked) I tablespoonful of butter. i egg. X tablespoonful of cornstarch. | pound of grated cheese. i cup of milk. Salt, mustard and cayenne to taste. Make a sauce of the first three ingredients; add the cheese and seasoning and stir until melted; add a beaten egg and serve as soon as the egg is blended with the sauce; do not let boil after the cheese is added. OYSTER SAUCE (for boiled fowl or fish, baked fish, fish timbales, etc.) Scald a dozen and a half of oysters in their own liquor; skim careftJly, drain and keep hot. When ready to serve, add to a pint of white sauce made wiUi a cup, each, of strained oyster broth and milk or cream. Or add to a pint of velout6 sauce. Onion, celenr, and carrot, a bay leaf, etc., may be scalded in the milk. Also add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, if desired. LOBSTER SAUCE, NO. I. (tOK boiled fish, fish TIMBALESjETC.) To a cup and a half of velout^ made with chicken or lobster stock, or of white sauce made with milk or cream, or part lobster or fish stock, add half a cup of lobster meat cut in cubes, and if 2o6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING convenient, beat in a tablespoonful of lobster butter, add also a dash of paprika and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Shrimp sauce may be made in the same way. HORSERADISH SAUCE To a cup of veIout6 sauce add one fourth cup of hot cream and one third cup of fresh-grated horseradish; let heat without boiling. BUTTER SAUCE (DRAWN OR MELTED BUTTER) ' J cup of butter. | teaspoonful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. | teaspoonful of pepper. I cup of water. Use half the butter with the flour in making the roux: when ready to serve, beat in the rest of the butter, a small piece at a time. As in making all sauces thickened with roux, cook the flour thoroughly before adding any of the liquid. The feature of this sauce is the addition of the butter, little by little, after the completion of the cooking. CUCUMBER SAUCE (for fish) To a pint of butter sauce add from one fourth to one half cup of chopped cucumber pickles. CAPER SAUCE (for boiled fish and mutton) To a pint of butter sauce add from one fourth to half cup of capers. EGG SAUCE (for boiled fish) To a pint of butter sauce add two or three hard-boiled eggs cut in one fourth inch slices, or chopped rather coarsely. ANCHOVY SAUCE (for fish) Pound the flesh of four anchovies with two tablespoonfuls of butter in a mortar; stir into a cup of butter sauce, pass through a sieve, reheat and add the juice of half a lemon. BROWN TOMATO SAUCE abf GERMAN SAUCE (for baked fish, especially shad) To a pint of butter sauce add the juice of half a lemon and half a cup of fine-chopped cooked spinach; strain a part of the sauce over the fish and serve the rest in a sauce boat. Do not strain out the spinach; use a sieve and pass the spinach through it. The beaten yolks of two eggs may be added with the last of the butter. BROWN SAUCE 3 tablespoonftils of butter. j teaspoonful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. J teaspoonful of pepper. I cup of brown stock. Prepare a brown roux, being careful not to burn the butter and flour; add the stock gradually. BROWN SAUCE, NO. 2 I tablespoonful of fine bits of onion. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. I tablespoonful of fine bits of carrot. 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. I sprig of parsley. i teaspoonful of salt. I sprig of thyme. i teaspoonful of pepper. Piece of bay leaf. i cup of brown stock. Cook the vegetables and herbs in the butter until a russet brown; add the flour (an extra tablespoonful is used, as flour loses its thickening quality to some extent when changed to caramel) and brown ; then add the stock gradually. Strain before using. Flour already browned for sauces may be purchased at first-class groceries. BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE (for beefsteaks, fillets of beef, etc.) To one cup of brown sauce add one third cup of canned button- mushrooms, whole or cut in halves. Fresh mushrooms need be cleaned and peeled, then sautdd in butter, or simmered in water imtjl tender, before they are added to the sauce. BROWN TOMATO SAUCE (foe beefsteak, cannelon of beef, macaroni, etc.) Take either recipe for brown sauce, using half the liquid of brown stock and half of tomato pulp, measured after stewing and strain- ing. ao8 PRACTICAL COOKING AKD SERVIPKJ OLIVE SAUCE (for roast duck) Cover a dozen olives with boiling water and let stand half an hour on the back of the range. Pare them round and round and remove the stone; add to a pint of brown sauce, then let simmer five or six minutes. SAUCE PIQUANTE (for boiled beef) 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped shallot | cup of butter. or very mild onion. § cup of flour. z tablespoonfuls of fine-chopped 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar parsley. 2 cups of bionn stock. Cayenne to taste. Cook the shallot with the butter and vinegar until the butter looks dear and brown, when the shallot will have absorbed the vinegar. Then add the flour and pepper, salt, if needed, and let cook until brown; add the stock gradually and, just before serving, the parsley and gherkins. CURRANT-JELLY SAUCE (for rechauffes of venison, mutton and lamb) Add to a cup of brown sauce, made by the first recipe, one fourth cup of currant jelly and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. SAUCE VILLEROI (fOK 0VSTER6, EGGS VILIJCSOI, AND FOR COATING COIS ITtLETS, OR OTHER MEATS THAT ARE TO BE HEATED BEFORE SERVING.) To a cup of white or brown sauce made in the usual manner add (after removing from the fire) the yolks of two eggs beaten with one fourth a cup of cream or milk. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly, until the sauce is quite stiff. When the sauce begins to cool, pour it over the articles to be served villeroi style, or the articles may be rolled in the sauce. Chopped mushrooms and parsley are often mixed with the sauce. FINE SAUCES 209 CHAUDFROID SAUCE (for covering cold galantine of fowl, boiled or braised TONGUES, SWEETBREADS, ETC., THAT ARE TO BE SERVED COLD) To a pint of brown or white sauce made in the usual way and while still hot, add half a box, or one ounce of gelatine that has been soaked in cold water until soft. Stir until the gelatine has dissolved, then strain and use as soon as it begins to stiffen. Use a spoon and silver knife to spread the sauce, and fill uneven places on the surface of the article with sauce before beginning to cover the same, so that the dish when finished may present a smooth even surface. The article to be covered should be chilled on ice before the sauce is spread upon it. Use tomato sauce when a red color is desired. If a yellow color be the choice, add three or four beaten yolks of eggs, just as the sauce is removed from the fire. Flovtr has been used as the starchy ingredient of roux, but corn- starch or arrowroot may be used, keeping in mind that, as corn- starch has about twice the capacity of flour as a thickening agent, and arrowroot even greater capacity, the quantity must be dimin- ished accordingly. REFERRING TO SAUCES Butter and other fats when heated attain a high degree of tem- perature and in them starchy materials are cooked very quickly; but fats at a high temperature undergo certain changes that render them dif&cult of digestion, so that sauces prepared with roux are not suitable for children, or convalescents. For these it is better to prepare a sauce by one of the following methods: heat the stock, or water, to the boiling point (if milk be used, scald it over hot water), fiien dilute the butter, flour, and seasoning creamed to- gether with a little of the hot liquid, stir imtil smooth, then stir and cook in the rest of the hot liquid ten or fifteen minutes. Or dilute the flour and seasoning with cold liquid to pour, and stir into the boiling liquid, adding a little butter after the sauce is cooked, if desirable. FINE SAUCES Under the name of fine sauces, the two fundamental French sauces are to be noted. There are two points wherein these sauces differ from the simple white and brown sauces, that are the funda- mental sauces in the ordinary family cuisine, viz.: the character aio PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING of the liquid used, and the final removal of the butter used in the roiK. In the recipes for simple sauces, stock is used. In families of ordinary size there is usually material enough in the flank-ends of steak, the trimmings from chops, the bones from roasts of beef and fowl, the heads and trimmings from fish, and the body-bones from lobsters, to furnish all the stock needed for sauces. But the more carefully selected these materials are, the better the stock and, consequently, the sauce will be. Nor will bones and fat meat alone suffice, there must be the proper proportion of raw lean meat. The stock used in Espagnole sauce is not made of odds and ends, but of beef and veal, that in velout6, of veal and chicken. Espagnole and veloute sauce maigre are made of any suitable white fish. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE Butter a stewpan and put in two small onions, sliced; upon these place three pounds of veal from the fillet and one pound of beef from the neck, or round; moisten with a cup of "general" stock made without fowl and let boil until the stock is half reduced. Now, do not neglect the meat, but let simmer gently, turning fre- quently imtil it is of an even, bright brown color. The caramel flavor produced by thus glazing the meat is one of the features of French sauces. The glazing must be arrested as soon as a bright brown color is attained; for, if the glaze becomes dark brown in color, the sauce will be bitter. When the meat is glazed, remove from the fire, and let stand, covered, five minutes; this will facilitate the dissolving of the glaze. Now pour in three quarts of general stock, bring to the boiling point and add a carrot, cut small, half a tablespoonful of salt, and half a bay leaf and a sprig of th3rme tied in a sprig or two of parsley; let simmer until the meat is tender, then remove to serve as bouilli, or for use in " made dishes." Strain and cool the stock. Make a brown roux with one cup of clarified butter and one and a half cups of flour; add the stock in the usual manner. After all is added and the sauce is boiling, remove to the back of the range, and let simmer two hours with the saucepan partly covered. Skim off the fat twice during this period. At the end of two hours remove the fat a third time, strain the sauce and set aside for use. Butter loses its flavor in cooking, and it is used in all sauces thickened with roux simply as a medium in which to cook starch. The removal of this butter, which has served its purpose, gives the smooth velvety appearance that distinguishes the simple f'xjra the fine sauces . ESSENCE OF MUSHROOMS 311 VELOUTE SAUCE 3 pounds of fillet of veal. i carrot. I chicken (fillets of breast removed Salt and pepper, if desired.) i cup of butter. I onion. i cup of flour, 4 quarts of general stock (white meat). Prepare as Espagnole sauce, but without glazing the meat, or browning the flour. In large establishments, where a variety in sauces is called for, by simply adding to these fundamental sauces the essence of mushrooms, game, or chicken, glaze of some par- ticular kind and mirepoix, i.e., vegetable glaze, any kiad of sauce desired is produced at short notice; as, for instance: SAUCE SUPREME I quart of fine veloutfi sauce. J cup of essence of chicken. I cup of essence of mushrooms. Let the ingredients come to the boiling point and simmer half an hour, then skim. ESSENCE OF CHICKEN Essences are used to flavor and dilute the fundamental sauces; the various essences of fowl, game, etc., are all prepared in the same way. Remove the breasts and legs from three chickens and set aside for other use; disjoint the rest, add to the result a pound of veal, an onion with a clove in it, half a carrot, a kitchen bouquet and three pints of chicken consomme, let simmer until the meat is done. Use the meat in made dishes; strain the essence and set aside; skim off the fat before using, ESSENCE OF MUSHROOMS In a closed saucepan put a pound of cleaned mushroooms, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, and a teaspoonful of salt over the fire; let stand five minutes, then add a pint of chicken consomm6; let boil about eight minutes; strain and set aside. The mushrooms may be added to a salpicon of chicken, or oysters. 212 PRACTICAL COOKING AKD SERVING MIRBPOIX I pound of veal. 2 onions. J pound of bacon. 2 bay leaves. 1 pound of ham. i sprig of thyme. 2 carrots. 2 shallots. 2} quarts of general stock. Put the meat and vegetables, all cut in small pieces, into a frying, pan and fry to a light brown color; add the stock, let boil up once, then simmer two hours; strain and set away for use. GLAZE Meat, game, or fish glaze is added to certain fine sauces to finish them; glaze is also much used to give a glossy, shiny appearance to joints, baked fish and entries. A meat glaze is used for baked sweetbreads, and gives to them a very inviting appearance. For household use it may be prepared by reducing a strong, cleared stock, either white or brown, one fourth. Simmer in an open saucepan \mtil it has the consistency of a sauce. When cold it will be soUd and somewhat elastic. When ready to use, heat over hot water and apply with a brush, or baste the article to be glazed with a spoon. SAUCES THICKENED WITH EQQ EMULSION (hot sauces) HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (for boiled or baked fish, fish timbales, asparagus, cauliflower, etc.) § cup of butter. A few grains of cayenne. Yolks of two to four eggs. | cup of boiling water, i teaspoonful of salt The juice of half a lemon. With a small wooden spoon cream the butter; add the yolks of the eggs, one at a time, and beat into the butter thoroughly; add the salt, cayenne, and water, and cook in a double-boiler, stirring constantly until the sauce thickens; then add the lemon juice and remove from the fire. The number of yolks depends upon the consistency desired in the sauce. Lift the saucepan from the water from time to time, lest the sauce be curdled by overcooking. MOUSSELINE SAUCE 213 With two egg yolks the sauce should be creamy, with four, about the consistency of mayonnaise sauce. LOBSTER OR SHRIMP SAUCE, NO. 2 To the recipe for Hollandaise sauce add half a cup of lobster meat cut in cubes, or shrimps picked in pieces and also, if at hand, a tablespoonful of lobster butter. (See page 219.) CUCUMBER SAUCE Prepare a Hollandaise sauce according to recipe previously given; add a raw cucumber cut in dice. NONPAREIL SAUCE Tint a pint of Hollandaise sauce with lobster butter; then add the meat from the claws of a lobster, the poached white of an egg and six or eight canned or cooked mushrooms, all cut into cubes. COLBERT SAUCE { cup strong consonun£ or chicken i tablespoonful of chopped paisley stock. i tablespoonful of chopped The yolks of two eggs. tarragon. 4 cup of butter. J tcaspoonful of salt. The juice of half a lemon. Melt the consomme; when heated add the beaten yolks of two eggs and stir and cook over hot water imtil the sauce is thickened slightly. Add the butter in small bits to the sauce while cooking. Before talcing from the fire add the herbs and salt. MOUSSELINE SAUCE (tor aspabagus and cauuplower) i cnp of butter. a tablespoonfuls of lemon Juice. The yolks of four eggs, } teaspoonful of salt i cup of thick aeam. A few grains of cayenne. Make as Hollandaise sauce, using cream in place of water, but reserving half the butter to add in bits at the last. 214 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BERNAISE SAUCE (foe broiled steak and fillets of beef) a tablespoonfuls of chopped shallot. The yolks of three eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. i cup of butter. A few grains of cayenne. i tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Cook the shallot with the vinegar until nearly all the vinegar is absorbed : add the yolks and a small piece of the butter, and let it cook over hot water, adding the butter in small pieces, then add the seasoning. This sauce has about the consistency of mayon- naise sauce. It may be used either hot or cold. FRENCH SAUCE Make a Bemaise sauce, using one cup of butter in all and addi- tional salt and pepper: add to the sauce while mijdng one fourth- cup of thick tomato purle that has been passed through a very fine sieve; finish the sauce with one tablespoonful of chicken glaze, one tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley, and, if desired, a tablespoon- ful of reduced chili vinegar. COLD SAUCES MAYONNAISE SAUCE (for salads and cold meats) A few grains of cayenne or paprika, i pint of olive oil. I teaspoonful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. The yolks of two raw eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls of vin^ar. I teaspoonful of powdered sugar and i teaspoonful of mustard, if desired. Mbc the salt and paprika, add other seasonings and the yolks; beat well, adding the acid, gradually, beating it in with a Dover or Holt egg-beater. When all the acid has been added, turn in a teaspoonful of olive or other vegetable oil and continue the beating; add oil, a teaspoonful at a time, three or four times, beating vigorously meanwhile; then add the oil by the tablespoonful until all has been used. At the last beat in two or three tablespoonfuls of boiling water. The boiling water is thought to keep the sauce from "turning" or curdling alter it has GREEN MAYONNAISE 215 been set aside. By adding all of the acid to the yolks before oil is used, the egg-beater may be used from the beginning and the larger surface over which the oil is spread lessens the liability of the mixture to curdle. After the sauce is mixed, cover with an earthen or glass dish and set aside in a cool place. ROQUEFORT SALAD DRESSING Put about two ounces (quarter of a cup) of Roquefort cheese in a bowl and with a new wooden spoon (an apple-tree or olive-wood spoon is appropriate for dining-room use) work the cheese to a cream, then gradually beat in from four to six tablespoonfuls of olive oil, two to three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a scant half teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika. The uncooked yolk of an egg is sometimes beaten into the cheese and thick cream may re- place part of the oil. This dressing is particularly good for lettuce and endive, sliced tomatoes and cold boiled cauliflower. MAYONNAISE OR FRENCH DRESSING WITH VARIATIONS Into either a mayonnaise or a French dressing, made with a little onion juice, mix chili sauce to make the dressing of the consistency of thi<± cream. For cauliflower, tomatoes, string beans, etc., with endive or lettuce, beat into a French dressing fine-chopped pimen- tos, parsley and chives. WHITE MAYONNAISE SAUCE Prepare the mayonnaise with lemon juice instead of vinegar, and when ready to serve fold into a dressing made of one pint of oil, a cup of whipped cream, and a few grains of salt and pepper. Use double cream; whip imtil solid and measure after whipping. GREEN MAYONNAISfi (for fish and cold lamb) Cook together a cup of peas, two or three leaves, each, of mint and lettuce, a root of spinach, and a sprig of parsley, until the peas are tender. Drain and press through a fine sieve. If the pulp be moist, cook and stir imtil dry. When cold add to mayonnaise dressing, using such quantity as is needed to secure the tint desired. Omit the mint leaves when the sauce is for fish. art PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING RED MAYONNAISE Cook a can of tomato pur6e — cooked tomatoes strained — until reduced to two tablespoonfuls. Add when cold to mayonnaise dressing, using such quantity as is needed to secure the desired tint. JELLY MAYONNAISE To a cup of mayonnaise dressing beat in gradually from two table- spoonfuls to one third cup of chilled but liquid aspic jeUy (see page 247). SAUCE TARTARE To a pint of mayonnaise sauce, made with tarragon vinegar and mustard, add a shallot chopped fine, one fourth a cup, each, of fine-chopped capers, olives, and cucumber pickles, two tablespoon- fuls of chopped parsley, and half a teaspoonf ul of powdered tar- ragon. Half a teaspoonful of onion juice may take the place of the shallot. COOKED SAUCE FOR CHICKEN SALAD. (MRS. ARMS. OHIO ) i cup of weQ-reduced chicken stock, i teaspoonful of paprika. i cup of vinegar. Yolks of five egga i cup of mised mustard. i cup of oil. I teaspoonful of salt. I cup of sweet cream. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the salt, pepper and mustard; cook over hot water, in the chicken stock and vinegar, until the mixture coats the spoon. When cold and ready to serve beat the oil into the sauce with a whisk and fold in the cream beaten stifi with a Dover egg-beater. Less mustard may be used. COOKED SALAD DRESSINa (ANNIE P. DOUGHTY, BOSTON) t teblespoonful of mustard i cup of vinegar. i cup of sugar. I cup of sweet or sour cream. i cup of butter. 3 beaten eggs. I tea^wonful of salt. A few grains of cayenne. Cream together the butter, sugar, and spices; add the beatec eggs and cook in the hot cream ; when the mixture begins to thicken, jidd the vinegar, a few drops at a time, until all is used. Beat the BREAD SAUCE 217 mixture constantly and remove from the w&ter, occasionally, to avoid overheating. BOILED SALAD DRESSING (foe tomatoes, cauliflower, meat or fish) Mix one fourth teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of toustard, and a few grains of cayenne. Add the yolks of two eggs and the white of one, beat untU well mixed, then add four table- spoonfuls of butter and three fovurths cup of sweet cream. Stir and cook over hot water until thickened slightly, then gradually add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and set aside to become thor- oughly chilled. PRUSSIAN SAUCE. (MRS. WHEELOCK, MINNEAPOLIS) (for hot and cold meats) i cup of sugar. i cup of German prepared mustard. i cup of butter. J cup of yolks of eggs. J cup of white sour wine. J cup of broth or water. J cup of vinegar. i teaspoonful of salt. Mix and heat all the ingredients, except the eggs, in a double- *t)oiler, over the fire; beat the eggs, dilute with the hot mixture, \nd cook in the saucepan until like cream, beating the mixttxre «:onstantly. UNCLASSIFIED SAUCES BREAD SAUCE i cup of fine, stale bread crumbs. J teaspoonful of salt. I onion stuck with six cloves. J teaspoonful of paprika. X pint of milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Cook the bread crumbs with all the ingredients, except the butter, about an hour in a double-boiler. When ready to serve, remove the onion and cloves, add the butter and beat thoroughly. Pour o\ er roast birds or egg timbales, then sprinkle the whole with bread crumbs browned in butter. The bread crumbs may be prepared by pressing pieces of bread from the centre of the loaf through a colander. 2i8 PRACTICAL COOKING ANB SERVING CUCUMBER SAUCE, COLD (for broiled fish) Pare and grate two cucumbers; drain, season with salt, cayenne, and vinegar or lemon juice. HORSERADISH SAUCE (for roast and boiled beef, etc.) To the recipe for bread sauce add half cup of fresh-grated horseradish just before removing from the fire. HORSERADISH SAUCE Scald one pint of cream; add one fourth cup of fresh-grated horseradish and half teaspoonful of salt; mix and serve. HORSERADISH SAUCE NO. 3 (for fish-balls, fish, meat, etc.) Scald half cup of fresh-grated horseradish in a cup of stock, or water; dilute three beaten egg yolks with a cup of cream and cook in the first mixture until the spoon becomes coated; add half a teaspoonful of salt. CHERRY SAUCE (for lamb) Cook a pint of cherries in a pint of water with two cloves imtil soft; pass through a sieve, return the pulp and juice to the fire, and, when boiling, pour little by little over two tablespoonfuls of flour beaten into two tablespoonfuls of butter; return to the fire and cook five or six minutes after boiling begins; add a few grains of salt and the juice of a lemon. Serve hot. MINT SAUCE (for lamb) 1 bunch of mint. The juice of one lemon or i cup of boiling water. 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. A ^ew grains of cayenne. I teaspoonful of salt. GREEN BUTTER 219 Chop the leaves from the bunch of mint very fine; pour over the Arater, add the sugar, cover closely, and let stand in a cool place half an hour; then add the lemon juice or vinegar. If lemon juice be used, omit half of the sugar. maItre d'h6tel butter (for broiled meats or eish) Cream one fourth cup of butter; add half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper, half tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley, and three fourths tablespoonful of lemon juice, very slowly. The heat of the meat or fish will dissolve the butter. ANCHOVY BUTTER (for mackerel or other fish broiled, or to add to a melted BUTTER SAUCE FOR FISh) Cream half cup of butter; add to it, gradually, two tablespoon- fuls of essence of anchovies and the juice of half a lemon. Remove the fish to a warm platter, spread the anchovy butter over the fish, and garnish with slices of lemon dipped in chopped parsley. LOBSTER BUTTER (for halibut or other white fish, broiled, or to add to melted butter to serve with fish, or to mask a fish TO BE SERVED COLD) Poimd the spawn of a lobster with half pound of butter and pass it through a very fine sieve; season with salt and pepper and set aside for use. GREEN BUTTER (same USE AS LOBSTER BUTTER) J pound of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of very fine-chopped I peck of spinach parsley. 2 teaspoonfuk of very fine-chopped capers. Press the spinach, boiled and drained thoroughly, through a cheesecloth. Beat the butter to a cream, gradually add the spinach, parsley, and capers. aao PRACTICAL COOKHfO AND SEKVlIfG BLACK BUTTER (BUERRB NOIR), (rOR nSH, POACHED EGGS, ETC.) Cook half cup (four ounces) of fresh table butter in a frying- pan until it assiunes a deep golden color, skim, cook a moment or two longer, then pour off the top, discarding the dark sediment This is also made with parsley, a tablespoonful of leaves, washed, dried, and divided into tiny bits, being added for each ounce of butter. Add the parsley when the butter begins to color; cook until the parsley is crisp. CLARIFIED BUTTER (for boiled fish, asparagus, cauliflower, etc.) Put half a pound of butter in a saucepan over a slow fire, let boil very gently, skimming occasionally, for about half an hour without discoloring, then pour the clear liquid from the sediment. CHANTILLY APPLE SAUCE WITH HORSERADISH (for ducks and geese, particularly young ducks and goslings) Cook a pound (five apples of medium size) of apples, cored and quartered, with a very little hot water (they need be quite dry when cooked) and pass through a fine sieve; add to the pulp two table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar, one fourth cup of grated horse- radish and, when mixed together, fold in an equal bulk of whipped cream. ENGLISH APPLE SAUCE WITH HORSERADISH (for salted and smoked meats) Prepare as before, having the apple pulp very dry; omit the cream and add the juice of one or two oranges, then reheat without boiling. CHAPTER Vm Complex Meat and Fish Dishes: Entrees, Rechauffes, etc. "It was a rye loaf, or rather a pye made in the form of a loaf, for it enclosed some salmon highly seasoned with pepper." — Cook. An entree is a dish served at dinner or luncheon between the regular coiu-ses. Some entries are served hot and others, from pref- erence, cold or iced. As entrdes are served from the side, they are often shaped in individual portions; if not so shaped, they are separated into portions before they are passed. Meat, fish, eggs, vegetables, and, occasionally, fruit may form the foundation of an entrde. Uncooked meat or fish is often used in these dishes, but there is no place in cookery, where the cook has such an oppor- tunity to display her skill, as in the preparation of entrees from materials left over from other dishes. As meats and fish lose flavor in recooking, broth or stock to heighten flavor is almost a sine qua Hon, both in the composition of the dish itself and in the sauce with which it is served. Standard broth gives the best results, but broth carefully made from odds and ends of weU-selected material is not to be despised. As a means to this same end the appropri- ate use of celery salt or pepper, curry powder, tabasco sauce, a "faggot," onion, and marinades are to be commended. But, in reality, success in this branch of the culinary art depends largely upon the manner in which the fundamental ingredients are hand- led, and especially is this the case in the composition of r&hau£fes. Meat or fish that has once been cooked must of necessity be treated thereafter most delicately. As for these, the process is one of reheating, further cooking needs be avoided. It is well to remember the following items: (ist) That whenever vegetable, sauce, etc., is to be added to cooked fish or meat, it must be thoroughly cooked before being combined with these ingredients for reheating. (and) That cooked proteid substance while reheating must be protected in some way from direct contact with the heat of the 212 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING oven, fat or fire: as, for instance, with sauce, buttered crumbs, egg and bread crumbs, pastry cases, etc. (3rd) That the more finely these cooked substances be divided, the shorter the time needed in reheating arid the more readily will they absorb sauce or whatever is to give them flavor. (4th) That all bone, gristle, unsightly or unedible portions need be carefully trimmed away before cooked fish or meat is chopped or otherwise divided. (Sth) That, in chopping, the material is to be cut into tangible bits, not mashed, and, in slicing or cutting into cubes, the divisions are to be uniformly and neatly made. For convenience and to insure a better understanding of the subject, hot entr&s may be considered under four divisions, and the various cold entries, such as chaudfroids, aspics, etc., in a class by themselves, as: 1. Simple salpicon (ragout) mixtures, or chopped mixtures (either uncooked or r&hauffe). Served in borders, etc. 2. Salpicon or chopped mixtures, enclosed when cold in egg and bread crumbs, pastry, batter, etc., and fried, as croquettes, ris- soles, fritters, kromeskis. 3. Pur6es of meat or fish mixed with different proportions of egg, cream or sauce, panard, etc., to form souffles, creams, quenelles, mousses, etc. 4. Dishes composed of small pieces of solid meat trimmed to uniform shapes and sizes, as fillets, cutlets, suprtoes, etc. 5. Cold entr^s, as chaudfroids, aspics, etc. There are several utensils that simplify to a great extent the making of entrees. The first in importance is a sharp knife of suitable size, then follows a chopping knife, a meat chopper, a mortar and pestle, and a puree sieve and wooden spoon. But, in accordance with die bon mot of Motley, one might be inclined to do without a sharp knife or a chopping knife, to indulge in the luxury of a meat chopper, if anything so useful and saving of time and strength can be called a luxury. In selecting sharp knives of various sizes, the best French knives are the cheapest in the end. If a knife will not take and hold an edge, it is worthless. The "quick cut" chopping knives made in Canton, Ohio, on account of their shape, are easily cleaned and have more cutting surface than those of other make. They are made of good steel. In meat choppers, one that cuts clean rather than crushes the meat is the kind to purchase. Some machines are so made that with them meat may be cut in large or small CHOPPED MIXTURES 223 pieces. The knife of the Enterprise dioK»r may be reshatpened or an old knife replaced by a new. Purfe sieves come in different sizes; the size of mesh in the sieve cloth varies according to the use for which it is designed. A sieve with twenty-eight holes to the linear inch is needed for sifting icing sugar. A twelve-mesh sieve, or twelve holes to the linear inch, is adapted to sifting pur6es and marmalades, and an eight mesh for bread crumbs. SALPICON OR CHOPPED MIXTURES SERVED PLAIN OR IN BORDERS, ETC. These mixtures (see Salpicon, Chapter IV) may be prepared of one or several kinds of meat. In addition, a few bits of cooked ham or bacon, also calves', lambs' or chickens' liver may be in- cluded at discretion. We may have also a brown or a white mixture. The proportions are one cup of sauce to each half pound (one cup, solid measure) of meat or fish. In detail, for a brown mixture, peel and chop fine half a small onion (slice of larger size is enough) and a mushroom if convenient; saut6 in two tablespoon- fuls of butter or drippings (that from the top of the soup kettle preferred) until lightly browned; sprinkle in two tablespoonfuls of flour and continue cooking until of a light brown color, then add gradually one cup of stock or water, beating the sauce smooth be- tween each addition of liquid; let boil five minutes, then, when the sauce has cooled a little, add the meat chopped or divided accord- ing to the directions given at the beginning of the chapter, and reheat without boiling. If the meat be in slices, and particularly if it be lamb, mutton or venison, it may stand to advantage in a marinade (see Chapter IV, page 26) an hour or two before re- heating. Then use the strained marinade as a part of the liquid of the sauce. When a curried dish is called for, saute with the onion half a sour apple, a few green gooseberries or a piece of rhubarb; add the curry powder (a tablespoonful or less, according to taste) with the flour and continue cooking eight or ten minutes before adding the cup of stock. Half a cup of almond or cocoanut milk is considered by many as an improvement to dishes of curry. To prepare the nut milk, scald the pounded nuts in milk, then strain forcibly through a cheesecloth. When other acids are not at hand, a little currant jery with lemon juice gives the sweetish-sour taste con- 234 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING sidered so essential in a properly concocted curry. Let the meat stand over hot water some little time in the curry sauce to take up the flavor of the sauce. Serve in a rice border (see Cooking of Rice, page 300). For white salpicon, or chopped mixture, proceed in the same manner, without browning the vegetables or flour, and use milk or white stock as the liquid. Below are given recipes showing a few of the countless variations in serving these dishes. TURKEY RECHAUFFE With pastry bag and rose-tube, fashion potato roses around the inside of a dish that will stand the heat of the oven. Use hot po- tato, either duchess or plain mashed. Brush over the potato with an egg beaten with a spoonful of milk, add the rest of the egg to the sauce in which cold tiu:key, chopped or cut in cubes, is to be re- heated. Have the saiice quite consistent, to avoid running out between the "roses." To secure this, cut down the quantity of liquid for the sauce, or use more flour. Pour the turkey mixture into the centre of the dish, cover the top with cracker crumbs stirred into melted butter, and set the dish into the oven to brown the crumbs. The rechauffe may be brown or white. See preced- ing paragraph. MUTTON rechauffe', CREOLE STYLE I tablespoouful of chopped green Salt. pepper. A grating of horseradish. I tablespoonful of chopped onion. i teaspoonful of lemon juice. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. i^ cups of cooked mutton cut in thin 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. slices. I cup of brown stock. i cup of tomato pulp. Prepare according to previous directions; reheat the mutton m the sauce over hot water and pour over cooked macaroni, blanched and drained. Let stand in the open oven long enough for the macaroni to become hot, then serve at once. CREAMED CORNED BEEF AU QRATIN 3 cups of cold corned beef, cut in I cup of flour. cubes. 2 cups of milk. 8 slices of onion. Paprika to taste. I cup of celery leaves or coarse i cup of cracker crumbs. stalks cut in pieces. s tablespoonfuls of melted buttac i cup of butter. MEAT RECHAUFFE »S Scald the milk with the onion and celery and strain a little at a time over the butter, flour, and paprika creamed together; stir and cook until smooth and boiling, then cook over hot water ten minutes, and strain over the corned beef; turn into a buttered gratin dish, stir the cracker crumbs into the melted butter, spread them over the top of the mixture and set the dish in the oven long enough to brown the crumbs. Garnish with curled celery or celery leaves. VICTORIA CHICKEN. (BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL) i cup of butter. Salt and paprika. J cup of flour. I J cups of cooked fowl, cut in cubes. (a slices of onion) if convenient or i cup of cooked and drained peas, (i mushroom) agreeable. fresh or canned. 1 cup of chicken stock. i cup of tomato pur£e. Prepare as usual. Serve in pastry or china cases, tiny casseroles, bread croustades or on toast. CALF'S HEAD OR MOCK TERRAPIN. (ELLEN M. CHANDLER) Calf's bead and brdns. i cup of cream. Black and cayenne pepper. i cup of butter. 3 blades of mace. 4 tablespoonfuls of flour. 4 eggs (hard boiled). i cup of sherry win«. I cup of broth. Steam or simmer the well-cleaned head and brains, tied in a cloth, of a calf until the meat is tender — the brains will cook in twenty minutes — it should then be set aside in a covered dish. Remove the head meat from the bones and when cold cut in small pieces, spread on a dish and season with the pepper. Melt the butter, add the flour and cook until frothy, then gradually add the broth and cream and stir until the sauce boils; then add the pieces of meat, the brains, also separated into pieces, and the eggs (cooled in (iold water and cut in slices). Let simmer until all are well heated, then remove from the fire, add the wine and serve in a hot dish. MEAT RfeCHAUFFfe WITH CURRV AND TURKISH PILAF i cup of butter. i§ cups of stock. 2 slices of onion. i cup of almond milk. I dove of garlic. a tablespoonfuls of currant jelly. 1 cup of flour. I tablespoonful of lemon juice. 2 tablespoonfuls of cnny powder. 2 cups of thin sliced meat. aa6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Prepare as usual and reheat over hot water. Serve inside a border of plain boiled rice or of Turkish pilaf . The pilaf may be shaped with a spoon, or in a border mould. For the latter press ; the cooked rice into a buttered moxild, let stand ten minutes in the oven, then invert on the serving-dish. (For Rice and Turkish Pilaf, see pages 300 and 302.) MUTTON RECHAUFF6 WITH MACARONI J cup of macaroni. i pint, generous measure, of to- I pint of cold Iamb or mutton in mato sauce, slices. i cup of butter. I cup of cracker crumbs. Use the trimmings and bones in making stock for the tomato sauce. In a buttered au gratin dish alternate the layers of maca- roni and meat dressed with the sauce: mix the crumbs with the melted butter and spread over the last layer, which should have sauce above. Set into the oven long enough to brown the cnmibs. HARICOT OR RAGOUT OF MUTTON (UNCOOKED MEAT) 3 pounds of mutton (neck or breast). I sprig of thyme. 2 ounces (i cup) of butter. A bay lea.f . a tablespoonf uls of flour. I clove. I dove of garlic. Potatoes. I onion. Salt. 4 sprigs of parsley. Cut the mutton in pieces two inches long and one inch wide and •aut^ in the butter until well browned, then stir in the flour and, when blended with the butter, add cold water to cover; add also the seasoning, the onion whole, and the garlic chopped fine. Let simmer imtil nearly tender, stirring occasionally; add the potatoes, pared, quartered and cut in the shape of an orange carpel, having about as many pieces of potato as of meat, and let simmer until the potatoes are tender. Serve the pieces of meat in the middle of the dish, the potatoes around, and the liquid, from which the fat has been removed, over the whole.. Prepare other meats, as veal, chicken, and rabbit, in the same maimer. CHICKEN AND SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES aa? II SALPICON OR CHOPPED MIXTURES, COOLED THEN FRIED, PROTECTED BY CRUMBS OR BATTER, ETC. CROQUETTES The object to be desired in croquette mixtures, besides flavor, is a consistency of such firmness as will allow the shaping of the mixture easily when cold, and yet will insure a soft and creamy mass when heated. This condition may be best secured by using veal or chicken stock in the sauce which forms the foundation of all these dishes. Stock made from veal or chicken is rich in gelatine, and, thus, a liquid when hot, it becomes a firm jelly easy to handle when cold. The sauce for these mixtures is to be prepared accord- ing to the directions given under division I. To the sauce is added the materials to be used, one or more in kind, chopped or cut small, not crushed. Yolks of eggs; and cream are added for richness or additional nutriment, but most delicious croquettes may be made without either in the body of the mixture; eggs, however, are needed to make a fat-proof covering. After the meat or vegetable has been stirred into the sauce, set aside in a shallow dish to become cold. To shape, egg-and-bread-ctumb and fry, (see Chapter IV, pages 23-24) RECIPES CHICKEN AND SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES] i cup of cream. J cup of butter. i egg. i cup of flour. Salt and paprika. I cup of milk or i teaspoonful of lemon juice. I cup of chicken stock seasoned i pair of sweetbreads and chicken to with vegetables and herbs. make ij cups in all. If a richer flavor than the stock gives be desired, cook a slice of onion and a mushroom or two in the butter to be used in making the sauce. Add the'egg, two yolks are better than the whole egg, just before the meat, arid do not boil the sauce after the egg is added. This same formula may be used with any kind of meat or com- binations of meat, or with fish, shell-fish or vegetables, all having been previously cooked. 228 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Oystors need be carefully drained after parboiling, then when cold, cut in small pieces, and drained again. If the oyster liquor be used instead of chicken or veal stock, a teaspoonful of gelatine, softened in a little of the liquor, will be of help in shaping iJie croquettes. Add the last half cup of meat at discretion. Each bit of meat should be surrounded by a aeamy sauce, but often the full pint is not required. Serve with vege- tables, as green peas or asparagus tips, or with a sauce, as Bechamel or mushroom. MACARONI, CELERY, ASPARAQUS-TIPS, CAULIFLOWER, MUSHROOM, AND GREEN PEA CROQUETTES The above are among the vegetables most successfully served in croquettes; all should be perfectly cooked and drained. The macaroni, celery, mushrooms, and cauliflower are to be cut into small bits, then mixed with sauce. Tomato sauce and cheese are admissible as the foundation of all croquettes save those made of green peas. Chicken stock is preferable with asparagus. Serve with tomato, white. Bechamel or Hollandaise sauce. The formiila is the same as that given for chicken and sweet- bread croquettes. Add the cheese before the vegetable, Uiat the heat of the sauce may melt it; the quantity is largely a matter of taste; one tablespooiifu] to half cup when a pronounced flavor is called for. Parmesan cheese should be given preference, but American factory cheese will prove quite satisfactory. CUTLETS OF SWEETBREAD Cut in small cubes one or two pairs of parboiled and cooled sweet- breads, and add cubes of cooked red tongue and chopped cooked mushrooms to make a pint in all. Bind together with about a cup and a half of thick white sauce, to which have been added the yolk of an egg, a grating of nutmeg, a tablespoonful of lemon juice and a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley. When cold form into cutlet shapes, egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat, VEAL CROQUETTES One set of calf's brains. Scant } teaspoonful of salt I sweetbread. A few grains of cayenne. Cold veal to make i pint In all. i teaspoonful of lemon juice. I cup of veal stock. i teaspoonful of onion juice. i cup of cream. I egg. \ cup of butter. Fine-chopped paisley. } cup of flour. Egg and bread crumbs. KROMESKIS MQ Serve with white sauce, to which has been added the other sweetbread cut in cubes; or with mushroom sauce or vegetable* a la jardini^e. CHICKEN CUTLETS, PARKER HOUSE STYLE Prepare a croquette mixture, using the formula given for chicken and sweetbread croquettes, but omitting the sweetbreads at choice. Form the chilled mixture into cutlet shapes, dip into a yolk of egg, beaten and diluted with one tablespoonful of melted butter to each yolk of egg, then into fine bread crumbs, dispose on a buttered baking pan, agate preferred, some little distance apart. Pipe a duchess potato mixture on to the edge of the cutlets, brush with beaten yolk of egg and reheat in the oven; fill the open centres with buttered peas or asparagus tips. The asparagus tips may be mixed with HoUandaise sauce. Note that the yolks of eggs only are used in egging and that the cutlets are not double-breaded. RISSOLES Rissoles are made by enclosing a croquette mixture in pastry and, after brushing the surface with beaten egg, frying in deep fat. Occasionally rissoles are baked instead of fried. The paste is preferably puS-paste; the trimmings of a vol-au-vent or patties are often so used. The pastry is rolled very thin, about one eighth of an inch thick to insure thorough cooking. The croquette mix- ture needs be cold and tbe pastry chilled. Put a teaspoonful of the chilled mixture on the crust in several places in a line, near the edge, and fold the pastry over mixtmre. Cut out half circles of paste with the mixture in the centre of each, using a fluted patty cutter for the purpose; lift the part of the paste folded over the mixture, brush Uie edge with water and press carefully in place again. Brush the entire siurface with beaten egg, and let cook until delicately colored. Serve on a folded napkin. KROMESKIS Kromeskis are made by enclosmg an oyster in a piece of bacon, or a croquette mixture, or even a solid piece of meat with a little forcemeat or stuflSng, in pork caul, then dipping in batter and fry- ing in deep fat. When croquette mixture, or meat with stuffing, is used, the outside protection needs be folded and secured most 230 PRACTICAL COOBaNG AND SERVING carefully. The ends of an oyster or mushroom wrapped in bacon may be left open. Several kromeskis may be strung on a skewer, and, when fried and drained, pushed from it on to a folded napkin; or, if a silver skewer be used, they may be served on the skewer. Fritter batter, into which kromeskis are dipped before frying, is given on page 246. Ill SOUFFLES, MOUSSES, CREAM AND QUENELLE FORCEMEATS This division of made dishes has a counterpart in a similar division in sweet dishes, and, also, in vegetable dishes. The direc- tions given here for the preparation of meat and fish dishes will suffice for both the others. The foundation for all meat and fish dishes of this class is a paste, or pur6e of meat or fish, either cooked or uncooked. The paste or puree is lightened to a greater or less degree, according as it is a souffle, cream or quenelle forcemeat mixture, by the addition of eggs, cream, and sauces, one or all Of these preparations mousses and soufflfe are the lightest, and quenelles the most compact. Creams form the coimecting link between the two. SOUFFLES Souffles are the lightest form of made dishes: lightness is produced by the expansion of air when heated, the air being incorporated into eggs by beating. In a souM6, pure and simple, nothing is added to the eggs but salt or sugar and flavor, but, save in an omelet souffle, th^ are not found in savory dishes. Savory souffles are composed of: 1. A sauce as foundation. 2. A purge of fish, game, or meat, etc. 3. Flavoring, as onion juice, lemon juice, mushroom catsup, or chopped mushrooms, chopped parsley, celery salt, or pepper. 4. Lightening ingredients as eggs alone or eggs with bread cnunbs. The number of eggs and the thickness of the f ovmdation sauce, may vary greatly, £hus producing souffles of varying grades of consistency, as: two tablespoonfuls of flour and three eggs may be used with one half cup, one cup or one pint of liquid, and one half cup, one cup or one pint of meat or fish purfe, respectively. In case of the pint of meat and liquid, a half cup of fine bread crumbs needs be added to the sauce, CHICKEN SOUFFLE 2.^1 As these mktures in cooking rise to about double their bulk, the dish containing them should be half-filled, or a buttered paper band may be securely fastened around the dish to add to its height. The paper is removed before sending the dish to the table. When served as an entrfe, souffles are baked in individual dishes, or in well-oiled and dried paper cases. We give below three recipes: an oyster, chicken, lobster, or any other variety of souffle may be prepared by any one of these recipes, as preferred. Bake in a moderate oven or steam with water at a very gentle simmer. The time required in cooking is from twenty to thirty minutes, in in- dividual cases, ten to "fifteen minutes. The cooking is completed when the centre is firm. Prompt serving is necessary. Soufflfe are always served from the dish in which they are cooked. Serve with or without a sauce. Mushroom, Bechamel, tomato or white sauce are to be preferred. LOBSTER SOUFFLE 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. i cup of lobster meat cut in cubes. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Salt, cayenne, onion juice, parsley. I cup of milk, lobster or fish stock. Lemon juice. 1 cup of very fine-chopped lobster 3 eggs. meat. OYSTER SOUFFLE 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 10 drops of onion juice. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. J teaspoonful of parsley, i cup of oyster liquor. Salt and paprika. J cup of oysters. 3 eggs. 2 tablespoo;if uls of chopped mushrooms. Parboil the oysters, drain and cut in small pieces when cold. Strain the liquor and use with the butter and floiu: in making the sauce; add the seasoning, the yolks of the eggs beaten until very thick, and when cooked a little add the oysters, and fold in the whites beaten to a stiff froth. CHICKEN SOUFFLE 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Salt and paprika. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Onion juice. I pint of milk or chicken stock or part Parsley. of each. Celery salt. i cup of fine bread crumbs. 3 ^SSS- ' I pint of fine chopped chicken (cold}. 3^2 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Make a sauce of the first three ingredients; add the bread crumbs, the chicken (cooked and chopped very fine), the yolks of eggs well beaten, and the seasoning; and lastly fold in the whites beaten until dry. For cheese souffle see "What May Be Done with Cheese," page 347- FORCEMEAT Forcemeat is used in many of the choicest entries. It is used either alone or in combination with salpicon. When used alone it may be cooked in a border or cylindrical mould, in individual timbale moulds, or as quenelles. When combined in cooking with salpicon it may be used as the lining of a large mould, or of indi* vidual moulds, with a filling of salpicon. Of forcemeat there are two varieties, cream forcemeat, very del- icate in composition, and quenelle forcemeat, in which a bread or flour panada adds firmness to the preparation. Raw pulp of meat, or fish scraped from the fibre, pounded smooth in a mortar and passed through a pur6e sieve, is the foundation of the cream force- meat. The meat or fish pulp, prepared as before, mixed with panada, and passed a second time through the sieve, is the founda- tion of quenelle forcemeat. As the pulp must be forcibly pressed through the puree sieve, the sieve must stand very firmly. A sieve fitted tightly into the lower part of a double-boiler has proved a good arrangement for home use. The puree needs be scraped from time to time from the lower part of the sieve. CHICKEN CREAM FORCEMEAT (RANHOFER) ^ pound of chicken (white meat). i pint of whipped cream or 5 ounces of butter (i cup and 2 i pint of double cream, whipped. tablespoonfuls). Salt. I whole egg and Nutmeg. 4 yolks of eggs or Pepper. 4 whites of eggs. Scrape the flesh of the chicken from the fibre and pound it in a mortar to a smooth pulp, adding a little white of egg occasionally, to facilitate the process; return 3ie pulp to the mortar after sifting and pound into it, gradually, the butter and the eggs; add the aeasonmgs and set the mixture upon the ice. When dulled beat thoroughly and add to it slowly the whipped cream. Shape a littlf QtJENELLE FORCEMEAT aw of the forcemeat into a half-inch ball and poach nearly ten min- utes in water just " off the boil." If too firm add more cream. If not suflSciently consistent, add a little more egg. Dark meat of chicken, game, firm fish, turkey, or veal may be substituted for the chicken. CHICKEN FORCEMEAT WITH WHITE SAUCE Same as above, using three fourths cup of cold white sauce made with thin cream in the place of the cream. FISH CREAM FORCEMEAT (RANHOFER) I pound of boned and skinned bass The whites of two eggs. or other firm fish. 6 to 8 gills (3 to 4 cups) Salt, nutmeg and red pepper. of beaten cream. Pound the fish in a mortar, after running it through a meat chopper several times, or scrape the pulp from the fibre and pound it in a mortar; beat in gradually the whites of the eggs, pass tmrough a sieve and add the cream, beaten stiff, gradually. Poach a small ball and rectify as needed with cream or white of egg. QUENELLE FORCEMEAT (MALLOCK) 8 02. (i cup) of meat or fish pur€e. i egg. 4 oz. (i cup) of flour panada. i tablespoonful of cream. 1 oz. (2 level tablespoonfuls) of butter. Salt and pepper. The puree is measured after pounding and sifting ; add the panada and continue pounding, adding, meanwhile, the other ingredients. This gives a very firm forcemeat QUENELLE FORCEMEAT, NO. 2 fDELICAT© X cap of raw meat or fish puree. i cup of butter. i cop Of panada. The whites of 3 eggs or (flour or bread). The yolks of 3 eggs. I cup of cream whipped. Salt and pepper. Prepare m the same manner as above, pressing throiigh the sieve a sec^ time before adding the cream. 234 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING FLOUR PANADA 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Few grains of salt. § cup of boiling water. i egg. J cup of flour. (Makes i cup of panada.) Melt the butter in the boiling water; when again boiling stir iu the sifted flour and continue stirring until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan; let cook a few moments, keeping it in motion to avoid burning; remove from the fire and beat into it one raw egg; cover and cool before using. Makes one cup. BREAD PANADA Soak white bread, free from crust, in cold water to cover, until well softened. Then turn into a napkin and press out the water. Add milk or white stock. Cook and stir until a paste is formed that clings together and leaves the sides of the pan. Cook a few moments, then beat in one egg. TO MOULD AND COOK FORCEMEATS Butter the mould very thoroughly, ornament, if desired, with pieces of truffle, red beef tongue, haJf-cooked carrot, chq>ped ham, parsley, truffles, or sifted yolk of egg, or lobster coral, as is appro- priate. Fill the mould by means of a forcing bag and plain tube held inside and close to die surface. If a spoon be used, hit the mould sharply against the table several times while filling, to cause the mixture to settle evenly in the vessel, otherwise creases will appear to mar the appearance of the dish when cooked. If the forcemeat is to be used as a lining and the centre filled with a sal- picon, press the meat against the sides of the mould to a depth of about three eighths an inch for individual timbales, to a fuU inch for a large mould. Make the lining of a large mould considerably thicker near the top (which will be tjie bottom when inverted) to insure a firm foundation; fill the centre with salpicon and cover the top with forcemeat, making very smooth and even, that the timbale may stand even. Set the mould on a trivet or fold of paper In a dish fflled to half the height of the mould with water just "o£E the boil." Cook in the oven until the centre feels firm, from ten to fifteen minutes for a small mould and twenty to thirty minutei for a Urge mould. On no account should the water reach the CHICKEN TIMBALES 235 boiling point. Partially invert the mould on a cloth to drain oflE the liquid, then turn the contents on to a serving dish. While in- verting small moulds the timbale may be kept in place with a spatula. Large moulds need be handled very carefully; it is better to take up the liquid that drains from them on to the serving-dish than to run the risk of breaking the contents. VARIOUS STYLES OF MOULDINQ FORCEMEAT CHICKEN TIMBALES Fill the individual timbale moulds, decorated with diamond or crescent-shaped bits of truffle, with any of the chicken forcemeats, and poach as directed. Serve with mushroom. Bechamel or Alle- -mande sauce. CHICKEN TIMBALES, NO. 2 Line a charlotte-russe mould, decorated with figures cut from carrot, white of hard-boiled egg and truffle, with forcemeat an inch thick, fill the centre with a thick sauce (double the usual quantity of flour and use thick cream in part as the liquid) mixed with small quenelles, cooked mushrooms, and dark meat of the chicken cut in cubes. An undecorated melon mould makes a well-shaped timbale. CHICKEN TIMBALES, NO. 3 Cook the forcemeat in a round or oval border mould and fill the centre, when unmoulded, with the same salpicon as that used above in a thinner sauce, or with sweetbreads cut in cubes, chicken quenelles and chopped truffles mixed in a white or Bechamel sauce. CHICKEIM TIMBALES, NO. 4, MOULDS LINED WITH SPAGHETTI Cook full length pieces of spaghetti until tender in boiling salted water. Have the salted water boiling and carefully put one end of all the pieces into the water together; as the spaghetti becomes moist, it may be coiled around into the saucepan of water without breaking. Rinse carefully with cold water and dispose the pieces at full length on a cloth to cool. Thoroughly butter a mould. Moulds with slanting sides are more easily lined. Begin at the centre of the bottom and coil the spaghetti roimd and round, adding 9.^6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING a little forcemeat, as a second lining, to hold the spaghetti in piace. Fill the centre with rings of cooked macaroni (macaroni cut in one f om:th inch pieces) or alphabet paste mixed with tomato sauce and cheese, or with cubes of sweetbread, chicken livers, mushrooms, or red tongue in a Bechamel sauce. (Note "To Mould and Cook Forcemeat," page 234.) Serve with tomato or Bechamel sauce, FISH TIMBALES Same as chicken timbales Nos. i, 2, and 3, substituting fish forcemeat for the chicken, and fish quenelles and oysters, cubes of lobster meat or picked shrimps, broken in pieces and added to white sauce made of fish and oyster or lobster stock and cream, for the garnish used with chicken. SHELLS OF CHICKEN OR FISH FORCEMEAT Press the forcemeat into well-buttered shells sprinkled with fine- chopped parsley, ham or truffles, for chicken, olives, pickles, capers or lobster coral, for fish forcemeats. Set the shells on several folds of paper, pour water aroimd them and poach in the oven about twenty minutes. With pastry bag and small plain tube press part of the forcemeat on to a buttered paper forming fluted oblongs about an inch in length (quenelles), spread the paper, quenelle side down, ia a saucepan of water just "off the boil" and let poach ten minutes. Skim from the water, and add, with small rounds cut from slices of cold boiled ham or dark meat of fowl, to a cup of yellow Bechamel sauce. Dress the shells, crown fashion, on a serv- ing-dish, with the sauce, quenelles, etc., in the centre. CHICKENS' LEGS AS CUTLETS WITH OLIVES Remove the tendons and bones from the legs of six young chickens, retaining, however, an inch and a half of the drumstick nearest the foot; season inside with salt, pepper, and fine herbsi then stuff with chicken quenelle forcemeat made of the breast of a part of the chicken. Sew with coarse thread leaving the legs in ehape. .Put them in a flat saucepan, season and let simmer until tender, barely covered with stock; let partly cool in the stock, then press under a weight. Remove the stitches and trim the legs neatly; egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat, or saut6, first on one side and then on the other, to a golden brown in melted butter. CHIPRrx CUTLETS, PARKER HOUSE ST\ LE (See ixiML- 229.) PRESSED CHICKEM. (See page 136.) CREAMED CORNED BEEF AU GRATIN. (Seepage 224-) POTATO FOR GARNISHING Mashed potato rosettes, boiled potato ball above sprinkled with chopped parsle Pyrainids of mashed potato, chopped parsley above. Rosettes grouped in shape of basket to hold a salpicon of meat or fish, parsley handl*. Fried lattice potato, also straw and balls SPATULA. PERFORATED WOODEN SPOON. FRENCH APPLE-TREE SPOON FOR CHAFING-DISH COOKERY BAKED POTATOES IN THE HALF SHEL^ (See page 266.J CUTLETS OF BEEF FORCEMEAT 237 After draining on soft paper, put a frill on the end of each bone, dispose in a circle on a hot dish and fill the centre with stoned olives, filled with chicken forcemeat and poached. The olives may be stoned, the forcemeat omitted, and the dish heated in water brought nearly to the boiling point. Serve with white sauce, seasoned with lemon juice and fine-chopped parsley. GAME OR DARK FORCEMEAT WITH MUSHROOMS i pound of game meat or dark | cup of Bechamel sauce, meat of fowl. § cup of mushroom purfc. The white of i egg. Chop a pound of fresh mushrooms, cook in butter, until the moisture has evaporated, and pound with one third the quantity of thick Bechamel; let cool and mix in gradually to the pulp in the mortar, poimding meanwhile: pass through the sieve and rectify if needed with cream or white of egg. CUTLETS OF BEEF FORCEMEAT. MACARONI RAGOUT t Ih. of raw lean fillet of beef. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. i lb. of lean cooked ham or pickled J teaspoonful of salt. tongue. J teaspoonful of paprika. 4 ounces of panada. 3 raw eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls of thick brown sauce. With a pestle pound the raw and cooked meat in a mortar; add the panada, sauce and butter, and poimd again; then, when thor- oughly blended, add the seasoning and eggs and pound and mix once more; then press through a puree sieve, scraping the mixture from the under side of the sieve. With pastry bag and tube press the forcemeat into small well-buttered cutlet tins (fifteen wHl be needed) and smooth the surface with a knife wet in boiling water. Set the moulds on folds of paper or a trivet, in a shallow baking pan, add water at the boiling point to cover the bottom of the moulds and poach in the oven about twenty minutes. Unmould and dispose on a border of hot mashed potato, first masking alter- nate cutlets by dipping them in hot and well-reduced tomato sauce. Fill the centre with macaroni ragout and sprinkle with fine-chopped parsley. 238 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING MACARONI RAGOUT Reheat a cup of cooked macaroni, half cup of cooked ham or tongue, cut in juliennes, and a dozen cooked mushroom caps in a rich tomato sauce. SUPREME OF BEEF TENDERLOIN. (ADOLPHE MEYER) I pound of beef tenderloin. i whole egg. li cups of panada. Nutmeg, salt, paprika, li cups of butter. i cup of brown sauce. I cup of well-reduced brown sauce. Marrow. Mushrooms. 3 yolks of eggs. Sweet red peppers. Scrape the beef from the fibres, then pound in a mortar, adding while pounding the panada, butter, and reduced brown sauce; add the seasonings and the eggs, then pass through a fine sieve; set on ice and beat into it the second cup of sauce. With this forcemeat line buttered timbale moulds and fillthe hollow centres with sal- picon of marrow, mushrooms and peppers, cut in small squares, after cooking, and mixed with thick brown sauce ; cover the top with a layer of the forcemeat, place the moulds on several folds of paper, in a dish of hot water, and cook in a slow oven about fifteen minutes. Unmould and serve with Spanish sauce. Poach the marrow, saut6 and cook the mushrooms, and parboil the peppers before cutting them for the sauce. Test the forcemeat and rectify with sauce, or eggs, as needed before lining the moulds. The mixtures for the four following dishes, on account of their consistency and manner of preparation, do not belong to this class. They are much more easily prepared than forcemeat preparations and, while they do not possess the smoothness and delicacy of these almost classical dishes, they are to be recommended. Any firm fish may take the place of the chicken. CHICKEN TIMBALES. (MRS. McEWEN, OHIO) The breasts of 2 raw chickens. A grating of nutmeg. I teaspoonful of salt. The whites of three eggs. A dash of white pepper. 1 pint of cream. Pass the chicken breasts five or six times through a meat chopper; add the seasoning and beat into the mixture, one at a time, the cnbeaten whites of the eggs, and then very gradually the cream CHICKEN TIMBALES 239 Have small timbale moulds well buttered; then put in place round bits of paper, cut to fit the bottom of the mould, and butter again; the moulds should be filled to two thirds of their height, cook as all mixtures on a trivet or folded paper, to lift them from the bottom of the dish in which they stand surrounded by hot water. Serve, tiurned from the mexilds and surrounded with a pint of white sauce, in which a cup of chopped or quartered mushrooms has been simmering. SUPREME OF CHICKEN, (MISS WILLIAMS, BOSTON) Breast of one raw chicken (i cup), i pint of cream. 4 eggs. Salt and pepper. Chop the chicken breast fine in a meat chopper; add an egg and beat until smooth, then add the rest of the eggs one at a time, and the cream, beating the mixture after each addition untQ smooth; season with nearly three fourths teaspoonful of salt and a dash of white pepper. Butter twelve small dariole moulds and ornament them with truffles; fill with the mixture, cover with buttered paper and poach about twenty minutes. (See general directions for poaching forcemeat, page 234.) Serve with Bechamel sauce. CHICKEN TIMBALES. COOKED MEAT (MRS. ELLIOTT RUSSELL, BOSTON) 1 pint of cold cooked chicken 1 tablespoonful of chopped pars- diopped fine. ley a tablespoonfuls of butter. Salt and pepper. 2 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. 2 eggs, beaten without separating. J cup of chicken stock. Mdt the butter, add the bread crumbs, then the stock; let boU, then add the chicken, parsley, salt and pepper, and the eggs. Bake in buttered timbale moulds, filled to two thirds their height, twenty minutes. Let the mcfulds stand while cooking on a trivet or thick fold of paper. Served with the following: SAUCE 4 tablespoonfuls of butter. i sprig of parsley. r tablespoonful, each, of chopped 4 tablespoonfuls of flour. onion and carrot. i pint of stock. I bay Ickf . Salt and pepper. 240 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Cook the onion, carrot, bay leaf and parsley in the butter ten minutes and add the flour, salt, and pepper; when frothy add the stock gradually, and let simmer ten minutes after all the stock is added; strain around the timbales. ROMAN PUDDING Line a buttered mould with boiled macaroni. The large fluted macaroni, cut in rings and strips, gives an ornamental mould. Cook one fourth cup of bread cnunbs in three fourths cup of milk; add two tablespoonfuls of butter, a cup of cold chicken chopped fine, two tablespoonfuls of chopped ham, and one table- spoonful of fine-chopped green pepper, salt, pepper, and onion juice to taste, and two well-beaten eggs; turn into the buttered mould and bake standing in a pan of water until firm. Serve with tomato or brown sauce, flavored with a few gratings of horseradish and a teaspoonf ul of lemon juice. Serve a few bits of macaroni in the sauce. MOUSSE OR MOUSSELINE The form of forcemeat called mousse is made very delicate by the use of a large quantity of whipped cream. On account of its delicacy it is usually cooked in small moulds called mousse and sometimes bomb moulds. The bottoms of these moulds are of such a shape that in use they need be set in timbale moulds. The mix- ture is also poached in buttered rings standing on heavy buttered paper, or in heart-shaped bottomless moulds, made of half-inch bands of tin about three inches long, standing on buttered paper. FORCEMEAT FOR MOUSSE OR MOUSSELINE I pound of chicken, white meat. J cup of cream forcemeat. The white of one egg. i quart of whipped cream. I cup of Bechamel sauce. Salt, red pepper and mace. The cream is measured after whipping and draining. Prepare ajid rectify as other forcemeat. QUAIL MOUSSELINE Substitute quail for chicken in the recipe given above and cook in moulds decorated with pistachio nuts and truffles. Serve with Bechamel or cream sauce, to which chopped truffles have been added. FILLETS OF BEEF WITH MARROW 241 PALMETTES Poach a chicken mousse preparation in buttered palmette moulds set on folded paper less than ten minutes; drain, egg-and-bread- crumb and fry in deep fat. Drain on soft paper. Serve with green peas or asparagus tips, or a delicate sauce. Quenelle force- meat and cream forcemeat, half and half, may be used for this dish. Palmettes so made are more easily handled than those made from a mousse mixture. IV HOT DISHES COMPOSED OF SMALL PIECES OF SOLID MEAT, AS BONED CUTLETS AND SUPRSmES This class of meat and fish dishes calls for neatness and accuracy in treatment. To insure success one should possess accuracy of eye and a steady hand combined with experience. The dealer is usually quite well satisfied, if he cuts chops of about the same thickness: and he could not be trusted to fillet the breast of a chicken. If this or similar work be required, it needs be done at home and time allotted to it. Dishes of this class are favored for entrees or for Ivmcheon dishes. When neatly fashioned, dressed crown shape or in straight rowsj one overlapping another, with an appropriate accompaniment of puree, small vegetables, sauce or salpicon, they present a sightly appearance. Chops served unboned, though treated similarly, are not included in this division on account of the presence of bone. , Among the materials thus used the most important are fillets of fish, which are fully treated in the chapter on fish, the fillet of beef, the "best end of tie loin" of lamb, mutton or veal, a slice of veal from the fillet, the breast of fowl or birds, removed according to directions given on page 154, sweetbreads, calf's liver and brains. FILLET OF BEEF The fillet of beef is cut into individual fillets, crosswise the grain of the meat into grenadins, minions, noisettes, paupiettes, etc. In trimming the fillet, before cutting into any of these shapes — everything but solid meat is removed — i.e., all skin and fat. FILLETS OF BEEF WITH MARROW Have eight or ten pieces nearly one inch thick cut from a fillet of beef; broil as any steak, or saute in a very little hot butter six 242 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING or eight minutes; the fillets should be left quite rare. Split two marrow bones, take out the marrow whole and cut in as many slices as fillets; let stand an hour in cold water, then place in boiling salted water and let stand ten minutes without boiling. Pour a brown sauce, well flavored, on the serving dish, arrange the fillets upon this, season with salt and pepper and dispose a sUce of mar- row upon each fillet. QRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN, BEAUMARCHAIS STYLE Cut lengthwise from a well-trimmed tenderloin of beef half- heart-shaped pieces, five by two and one half inches, and half an inch thick. Beat these lightly with a web cutlet bat, and with a sharp knife trim neatly to an exact pattern laid on the meat. Lard on one side with rows of firie lardoons, season with salt and pepper, and saut6 in oil or clarified butter four minutes on the larded side and the same length of time on the other. For plain grenadins, remove from the pan and serve with clear beef gravy (standard broth) poured over them. To serve Beaumarchais style, drain ofif or add to the butter in the pan as needed, add a teaspoonful or more of fine-chopped, blanched and drained shallot, and saute without coloring; add flour, stock, and seasoning as needed, also egg yolks and lemon juice, and strain on to a serving dish: sprinkle with fine- chopped parsley and arrange the grenadins above, one overlapping another, straight down the dish, surround with croustades, equal to the number of grenadins, filled with mushrooms stewed in cream. MINIONS OF BEEF TENDERLOIN Cut a well-trimmed fillet of beef into slices, each weighing about five ounces; with a wet cutlet bat or bread knife beat ttiem lightly to the same thickness, then lay a pattern on each and with a sharp knife cut into perfect rounds; dip these in oil or melted butter and broil over a moderate fire from six to ten minutes, as they are to be cooked rare or well done. Dress on a hot dish and pour clear gravy over them. MINIONS OF BEEF A LA DUMAS Prepare and cook as above and lay each on a round slice of cooked beef tongue (unsmoked). Let the slices of tongue be less than half an inch thick and of the same diameter as the minions. Heat an equal quantity of onion pur& and white sauce made with PAUPIETTES OF BEEF TENDERLOIN 243 stock and thicken with egg yolks diluted with cream. Cover the mmions with the sauce — which should be thick — spread with bread crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese mixed with melted butter and brown in a very hot oven. Garnish the serving-dish with tiny crescent-shaped, ham and mushroom croquettes (see Croquettes, page 227), In the croquettes use equal weights of ham and mushrooms and do not chop too fine. One fourth pound of each ingredient with sauce in proportion will be enough to garnish a large dish. MINIONS OF BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH CHESTNUTS Cook the minions as above; dress on a bread croustade. Sur- round the minions, or fill the centre, according as the minions are arranged, with shelled, blanched, and cooked whole chestnuts. To cook the chestnuts, let simmer until tender in broth with a stalk of celery. Reduce the broth to serve with the dish, thickening it if desired. NOISETTES OF BEEF TENDERLOIN Noisettes differ from minions of tenderloin simply in size, they should weigh about three ounces. Broiled or sauted, they are appropriately served with mushroom puree, saut6d potato balls sprinkifed with parsley or with potatoes a la maltre d'hdtel (see page 266), or with fritters or croquettes of beef marrow and mush- rooms. PAUPIETTES OF BEEF TENDERLOIN From a well-trimmed tenderloin cut lengthwise slices five by two and one fourth inches and less than one fourth an inch in thickness; beat lightly and trim evenly; season with salt, pepper, and mace, and cover oneside with a layer of cooked fine herbs aidded to half-glaze and half-sauce and thickened by simmering. (See Cooked Fine Herbs, page 21.) Roll the paupiettes into cylindrical forms; roU again in a shaving of fat salt pork, tie in shape and lay side by side in a frying-pan; add stock to half their height and let simmer imtil the liquid is evaporated; add more stock and finish cooking in a moderate oven. When tender, remove the strings and pork, strain and skim the fat from the stock, thicken with a brown roux and serve, poured over the paupiettes or separately. Slices cut from a fillet of veal may be prepared in the same manner. 244 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BEST END OF THE LOIN OF LAMB, ETC. This piece of meat corresponds to that part of the sirloin of beef in whidi the tenderloin is found. When this cut is to be served, either in hot or cold dishes, separated into uniform pieces free from bone and fat, the pieces can be given a more exact and uniform size and shape, if the bones be removed first of all. The section of back or chine-bone and the bone connected with this and at right angles to it may be removed in one piece, then the meat can be sliced into cutlets, or chops, of the same thickness, then trimmed and skewered to the same shape. These boned cutlets may be broiled, or braised, and finished in accordance with any of the recipes given for fillets of beef. They may also be used for medal- lions or rounds of meat. VEAL ROLLS A LA JARDINIl^RE Cut veal from the leg in very thin slices. With a wooden mallet pound the slices to one fourth an inch in thickness, cut in pieces three by five inches, and chop the trimmings with one eighth as much of bacon or fat salt pork. Add half as much, by measiu-e, of fresh bread crumbs as meat, season with onion juice, paprika, lemon juice, salt, and the stems of a dozen mushrooms chopped and saute in butter. Add a beaten egg and stock, or water, to make the whole as moist as possible and still hold its shape. Spread each slice with the forcemeat nearly to the edge, roll tightly, and tie or fasten with small buttered skewers,. Shape the remaining mixture into balls. Dredge both rolls and balls with salt, pepper, and flour, and saute to a light brown in hot bacon fat or butter. Half cover with stock, or thin cream, and let simmer about forty-five minutes, or until tender. Meanwhile boil a cauliflower and peas; saute a dozen mushroom caps, wiped and peeled, and cook them ten minutes in a little cream. Dispose the rolls upon a serving-dish, the vege- tables and balls around. Mix the cream in which the mushrooms were cooked with the liquid in the pan, thicken if desired with roux or meuniere, and strain into a sauce boat. The yolk of beaten egg, diluted with one fourth cup of cream, or with a tablespoonful of butter and a little lemon juice, may be added if desired. FILLETS OF CHICKEN OR GAME Directions for the removal of fillets of fowl or birds were given on page 154. The fowl from which fillets are to be taken needs be plump and full-grown but young. FHXETS OF CmCELEN WITH IPORCEMEAT 245 FILLETS OF CHICKEN, PLAIN Lay the fillets, aJl cut the size of the small fillet, side by side on a buttered baking pan; pour in a very little stodi, cover tightly with an oiled paper, and cook in a rather hot oven about ten min- utes. Serve, one overlapping another, crown-shaped, or straight down the dish. Asparagus tips make an appropriate garnish. Serve Bechamel sauce apart. FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH TONGUE ESCALLOPS Cut the large fillets of one or two plmnp chickens into fillets, the shape and size of the small fillet, and cook as above. Poach a ring of chicken quenelle forcemeat in a narrow border mould, concave on the top. Cut some escallops of cooked red beef tongue, the size of the fillets, and heat them in a little broth. Dress the fillets, the pointed ends uppermost and covered with paper frills, and the escallops alternately on the crown of forcemeat. Fill the centre with green peas, held together in cream or Bechamel sauce. To make the dish more elaborate, cut slantwise five parallel incisions down the centre of each fillet, having the cuts equidistant from one another, and into each of these press a round slice of trxiffle; cut the exposed edge of the truffle in points or leave plain. FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH FORCEMEAT (an entree made from one chicken to serve eight) Remove the fillets with care, to avoid separating the mignon and large fillets. Cut each side lengthwise into four fillets; bat each to a uniform thickness with a broad knife wet in cold water, dispose in a buttered agate pan, sprinkle with lemon juice, salt, and pepper; cover with a buttered paper and cook about five minutes m a moderate oven, then press under a light weight until cold. Free the meat, taken from the first and second joints, of skin and sinew. To each half pound of meat add four ounces of panada, one oimce of butter, salt and white pepper, and pound in a mortar to a smooth paste, adding meanwhile two raw eggs. When well blended press through a sieve. Spread this to the depth of half an inch over the fillets, smooth the tops and edges with a knife wet in hot water, and trim the fillets into shape if needed; put into a buttered sauti pan, add two tablespoonf uls of sherry wine and set into the oven for about fifteen minutes or until firm to the touch. Dispose the fillets 246 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING on a border of forcemeat or potato and fill the centre with a ragout of button mushrooms and chicken quenelles, or of peas or as- paragus in a rich sauce. FILLETS OF CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS Remove the fillets from two chickens, separating them into large and mignon fillets; remove the membrane from the large fillets and the tendons from the mignon or small fillets and trim neatly. Cut transverse slits in the upper side of each fillet and, in the larger, insert slices of truffle stamped into rounds with the lower edge fringed, and tiny strips of truffle, in the smaller fillets. Smoked and cooked beef tongue may be used in the place of the truffles. Brush the fillets with beaten white of egg and dispose in a buttered agate baking-pan; turn in a few spoonfuls of rich broth or wine and cook about fifteen minutes covered closely with a buttered paper. Sprinkle the fillets with a little salt before brushing with the egg, Dispose around a socle of fried bread. Garnish the top with heart leaves of lettuce and surround the base with a veloute sauce to which the trimmings of the truffles, chopped fine, and eight medium- sized mushroom caps sauted in butter have been added. For sweetbreads, calf's liver, and brains, which are included in this division, see the chapter on veal, page 131. COLD COOKED MEAT FRIED IN BATTER Tender, cold cooked meat of any kind may be trimmed into pieces of imiform shape and size, dipped in Villeroi sauce, and when cold egg-and-bread-cnmibed and fried in deep fat. Fritter batter may take the place of the sauce and egg-and-bread-crumbing. "Cooked fine herbs," or a croquette mixture, is often spread upon one side after shaping. Cold roast turkey and chicken are excellent pre- pared by this recipe. FRITTER BATTER The yolks of 2 eggs. i teaspoonful of salt. J cup of milk. 2 teaspoonfuls of olive oil. I cup of flour. The whites of 2 eggs. Beat the yolks, add the milk gradually and stir little by little into the flour and salt sifted together; add the oU and set aside several hours. When ready to use add the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. ASPIC JELLY 247 BATTER FOR SWEDISH TIMBALE CASES J cup of flour. I egg, or two yolks. § teaspoonful of salt. J cup of milk. Prepare as above, except beat the egg without separating. If the cases lack in crispness and are thick and soft, more milk is needed; when right the case is very thin, delicate, and crisp. For notes on fritter batter, see fritters under desserts. TO MAKE FRITTER CASES- SWEDISH TIMBALE CASES — FOR SALPICON MIXTURES Plain and fluted irons of various shapes, mounted on a long handle, are used for shaping Swedish timbale cases. To use, dip the iron into the hot fat, let stand two or three minutes, then drain and dip into the batter — held in a small cup — to half an inch of the top of the iron; retmrn at once to the fat and hold there until the batter is crisp and lightly colored, then remove from the iron and turn upside down on soft paper to drain. If, on dipping the iron into the batter, the batter does not cling to it, the iron has not been heated enough. If the fat sizzles considerably, and the case spreads out and drops from the iron, the mould is too hot. If the iron be lowered too far into the batter, the case will spread over the top of the iron and be troublesome to remove. The jSnished cases should be very thin, delicate, and crisp. With experience these are very easily made. They may be purchased at a caterer's, as also a pressed croustade or case made of a similar batter, but without frying. For salpicon to serve in these cases, (see page 223). COLD ENTREES, AS ASPICS, CHAUDFROIDS, MOUSSES, ETC. Probably the handsomest .dishes, in all cookery, are those which come under the head of cold entrees. Especially is this the case when aspic jelly enters into the composition of the dish and fresh vegetable salads lend their presence to the garniture of the same. ASPIC JELLY Aspic b a transparent jelly made of stock or standard broth clarified and variously flavored, Cwisomna^ m^de by the redpe 248 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING given on page 179 gives a foundation for one of the best of aspic jellies, but any of the standard broths, meat or fish, either alone or in suitable combinations, may be used. Chicken or veal stock alone gives a very delicately tinted aspic. To each five cups of any of these liquids needs be added two ounces of gelatine, softened in a cup of cold water and such additional flavoring as is desired. The whole is then clarified with white of eggs or raw meat, one or both. (See Clearing of Soup Stock, page 1 76.) Where transparency is no object, as when aspic is used in creams, or when it is added to mayonnaise or other sauce, any uncleared standard broth answers every purpose. In these cases two ounces of gelatine should be allowed for each five cups of stock and cream or sauce used in the composition of the dish. The natural color of aspic jelly is often heightened, and for fish and salads it is tinted a delicate green. When the consomm6 has been already finished and cleared for the table, it may be transformed into aspic jelly simply by the addition of the gelatine. As: RECIPE FOR ASPIC JELLY 5 cups of cleared consomin£. i cup of cold water. 2 ounces of gelatine. Let the gelatine stand in the cold water until thoroughly softened (a granulated or pulverized gelatine dissolves in a very few minutes), heat the consomme and pour over the gelatine, strain and it is ready for use. ASPIC JELLY WITH BEEF EXTRACT i cup of chopped onion. 2 sprigs of parsley. i cup of chopped carrot. 3 tablespocmfuls of tarragon vinegar^ 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. i quart of water. 2 stalks of celery. 3 teaspoonfuls of beef extract. i cup of mushroom 2 cups of boiling water. trimmings. 2 ounces of gelatine. 1 bay leaf. The yellow rind of a lemon. 6 peppercorns or i cup of cold water. A piece of red pepper. The white and shell of 1 egg. 3 cloves. Cook the onion, carrot, celery, mushroom trimmings, bay leaf, and parsley in the butter; add the pepper, doves, vinegar, lemon TO MOULD ASPIC JELLY 249 rind, and quart of water; let gimmer very gently an hour and strain over the beef extract dissolved in the hot water, then add the gela- tine softened in the cold water, and when cooled, the white of egg slightly beaten and the crushed shell (more shells are of advantage). Bring the liquid slowly to the boiling point, stirring constantly meanwhile; let boil three minutes, then remove to a cooler part of the range to simmer fifteen minutes; skim carefully, then strain through double folds of cheesecloth laid inside a colander or strainer. The flavor of tarragon vinegar is often disliked. WAYS OF USING ASPIC JELLY Aspic jelly may be: 1. Cut into separate or distinct pieces, either fine or coarse, called chopped aspic. These may be used to surround a dish of cold meat cut in slices, or piled like a rosette on slices of cold meat or, if cut fine, put on to the article as "piping." 2. It may be moulded in half-inch sheets and stamped out with fanciful-shaped cutters, dipped in hot water, or moulded in thicker sheets and cut with a knife, dipped in hot water, into pyramids, triangles, blocks, etc. Thus cut it is used to garnish large objects moulded in aspic. 3. Aspic jelly is moulded either plain or decorated with capers, bits of cooked white of egg and truffles, leaves of parsley or cress, in fanciful-shaped moulds, to garnish large objects moulded in aspic. 4. It is used to line moulds the centres of which are to be filled with salads, mousses, creams, etc., stiffened with gelatine or aspic. 5. To hold up and siurround pieces of fish, meat, etc., or whole objects, as boned and stuffed birds and fowl. 6. To coat with a glossy siuiace objects, or pieces of fish, meat, etc., covered with a mixture of sauce and aspic, called chaudfroids. TO MOULD ASPIC JELLY For use in the first two ways, turn the liquid when cold, but be- fore it begins to set, into perfectly dean and chilled pans of a size the required thickness demands. Always be careful that any dish containing aspic stands perfectly level. For use in the third way, simply pour the cooled aspic into the chilled moulds, unless the moulds are to be decorateid. In this latter case, turn the chilled mould with a tablespoonful — less or 250 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING more, according to the size of the mould — of chilled aspic round and round until the surface is lightly coated; set in ice and water until firm enough to keep in place, then arrange upon it the dec- orations, a,dding a drop of aspic to each, to hold it in place. Let the chilled but liquid aspic stand, meanwhile, in a saucepan of luke- warm water, in order to keep it in the right condition to use. After the decoration is firmly set, cover with more aspic, and when that is set, add a stoned or stuffed olive or any trifle that is desired; keep this in place with a drop or two of aspic and then gradually fill the mould. The same method is employed when the aspic is used for the fifth purpose. When the aspic is used to line a mould to the depth of half an inch or more, two moulds of the same shape, one larger than the other, are needed. Charlotte moulds are the style most often used. This is called double moulding. DOUBLE MOULDING Select two moulds similar in shape, one an inch or more larger than the other. Set the larger mould in a pan of ice and water, pour in liquid jelly to the depth of an inch and, when chilled and firm, place the smaller mould filled Avith ice upon the jelly and exactly in the centre; add water to the ice, then fill the outside mould with the liquid jelly; let stand until firm, then dip out the ice and water from the inner mould, replace with warm water and at once Uft out the smaller mould; fill the open space to within an inch of the top with the salad mixture, cream or mousse prepara- tion, or whatever is desired, and when this is firm cover with liquid aspic. TO UNMOULD ASPIC OR OTHER JELLIES, ETC. Immerse the mould to the height of the contents in warm — not hot — water; with a pointed knife loosen if necessary the jelly at the upper edge, turning the mould meanwhile from side to side, to make sure that the jelly has separated from the sides; then invert on the serving-dish and carefully lift the mould. A delicate jelly cannot be easily moved after it has fallen from the mould, and care should be exercised, at first, to place it evenly in the centre of the dish. If unmoulded on a lace or dish paper, the jelly may be moved on the paper. To change the position on a dish, when no paper has been used, carefully replace the mould over CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH CRESS SALADS 351 the mixture, then invert both together and separate the jelly from the dish with a spatula. TO COAT CHAUDFROIDS WITH ASPIC JELLY If the object covered with chaudfroid sauce be small, hold it on a broad knife-blade and pour the liquid aspic over it. A large object may be set on a meat rack over a large dish. The aspic may be put on with a brush; a spoon, however, is usually preferable. TOMATO JELLY Tomato jelly is not a clear, transparent, sparkling jelly like aspic; but it looks and tastes well and is easily made. Being opaque, it is used as a garnish rather than as a vehicle for holding other articles. RECIPE FOR TOMATO JELLY 2I cups of cooked tomatoes. A piece of a red pepper pod or a few A slice of onion. drops of tabasco sauce. A stalk of celery. I cup or more or mushroom parings. A bit of bay leaf. i box (i ounce) of gelatine. 2 cloves. I cup of cold water. i teaspoonful of salt. Cook the tomatoes (canned tomatoes are usually thus used) with all the ingredients, except the last two, fifteen minutes; add thr gelatine, softened in the cold water and stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then strain and mould. If bright-colored jelly be desired, strain through a sieve just fine enough to hold back the seeds. , A less dense and lighter-colored jelly results, when ike mixture is strained slowly tiirough a cheesecloth. RECIPES CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH CRESS SALAD Chill a thin layer of aspic jelly in cutlet moulds; decorate with figures, cut from cooked white of egg, and olives or pickles. Sprinkle with sifted yolk of egg and cover with aspic. When firm, put in a layer of cold cooked chicken and ham sliced very thin, and cover with more aspic. When cold turn from the moulds agamst a 252 FRACnCAL CCX)KING AND SERVING mound of water-cress dressed with French dressing (see page 320). Garnish the top of the moimd with mayonnaise and pass mayon- naise separately. TONGUE MOULDED IN ASPIC JELLY For this dish a fresh tongue may be used, but a pickled tongue is preferable. Boil or braise the tongue until very tender (see page 119). Remove the skin and return the tongue to the liquid in which it was cooked to cool partly, then cover and set aside imtil cold and ready to use. Trim off the unedible portion of the tongue, and remove any globules of fat that may have settled upon it, cut in slices of imiform thickness, and trim these into rounds. Select rounds of the same size for lining the mould, and use the others for filling. Prepare enough aspic jelly to fill the mould without regard to the other articles to be used; this is a safe plan to follow in nearly all cases. Wipe the slices of pickle dry before dipping them in the jelly. In filling the mould do not use the aspic in which the tongue and pickle have been dipped, as it will be more or less cloudy after use. Avoid having one layer of material set too solid before another is added or the molded form will separate at this place when turned out. If the jelly be in the right condition, the tongue and other materials chilled and the mould set in ice and water, the filling of the mould may be an almost continuous operation. Chill an eighth of an inch of jelly in the bottom of the mould and set in ice and water. When nearly firm dispose on this a ring of slices of hard- boiled egg with a slice of the same in the centre of the ring, and add a few drops of jelly to each, which when set will hold the slice in place. Against the sides and close to the bottom of the mould dispose a ring of slices of cucumber pickle, one overlapping another. Dip each slice in liquid aspic before pressing it against tiic side of the mould. When these are firmly fixed in place, fill the mould to nearly same height with slices of tongue and pour in jelly to fill up the space between the slices. Above the slices of pickle arrange a circle with slices of tongue, one sHce overlapping another, in direc- tion opposite to that in which the pickle slices overlap, and fill the centre with slices of tongue, pickles, and capers, if desired, covering each, as added, with jelly. Finish lining and filling the mould in the same maimer. Let stand some hours on ice, if convenient. When turned from the mould garnish with cress and lengthwise quarters of hard-boiled eggs. BONED QUAE. IN ASPIC JELLY 253 TIMBALES OF HAM IN CHICKEN ASPIC Pound two cups of boiled ham, chopped fine in a meat cutter, and four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing to a smooth paste; gradually stir into this a cup and a quarter of chicken aspic, just on the point of "setting." Chicken liquor flavored with vege- tables, herbs, and spices, in which half an ounce of gelatine has been dissolved, answers every purpose in this case. Have ready stand- ing in ice water timbale moulds, decorated with lengthwise slices of olives, and above either sifted yolk or fine-chopped white of hard-boiled eggs, mixed with enough liquid jelly to hold the egg together. Pour this mixture into the moulds, to make an even layer of the same height in each, then fiU the moulds with the liquid ham mixture. Serve turned from the moulds on a bed of heart leaves of lettuce, sprinkled with shreds of olives, red chilies, or shreds of cooked sweet pepper and tiny strips of cooked ham or bacon, dressed with French dressing. TIMBALES OF LOBSTER IN ASPIC Decorate the bottom and sides of individual timbale moulds with slices of cucumber pickle and large capers, set in a little liquid aspic. When nearly set fill the moulds with lobster, cut in cubes and mix with liquid mayonnaise aspic (see page 216). Serve with lettuce leaves seasoned with French dressing. BONED QUAILS IN ASPIC JELLY 6 boned quails. 2 ounces of foie gras. I cup of cooked chicken breast or J cup of tomato sauce. meat from quails. i cup of liqmd aspic. 6 mushrooms. Wipe the boned quails inside and out, and put into the body of each a cylindrical piece of raw carrot or potato, to keep it in shape. Pare and dry and butter the vegetables before using them. Brush with melted butter and tie each in a folded paper, buttered. Roast about twenty minutes. When cold remove the papers, potatoes, and trussing twine, and with a forcing-bag and tube fill the bird with a salpicon made by stirring the chicken breast, cooked mush- rooms and foie gras, all cut in tiny cubes, into Che cold tomato sance, mixed wiSi the aspic Add the aspic to the tomato sauce, while both are slightly warm, and stir while cooling in ice water, 254 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING then add the solid ingredients and fill the birds vnth the mixture before it begins to set. Let the birds become chilled, then with a knife, wet in hot water, cut each in halves. Cover with chaud- froid sauce and then with liquid aspic. Dress for serving against a rice croustade. Pipe chopped jelly between the birds and on tiie top of the croustade. COLD SOUFFLM of CHICKEN AND TONGUE I cup of liquid aspic. i cup of double cream. I cup of tomato purte. J cup of chopped (cooked) chicken. T tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, i cup of chopped (cooked) pickled Salt and pepper. tongue. 3 or 4 chopped tru£Ses. To make the tomato pur6e, cook the tomatoes until somewhat evaporated, then pass through a puree sieve and let chill. Beat the cold but still liquid aspic with the tomato puree and the vinegar imtil very foamy; add gradually to the chopped meat, then add the cream beaten solid, also a part of the truffles, with salt and pepper to taste; turn into a souffl6 dish — a small-size dish is needed — with a band of paper, fastened about and extending above the dish about an inch. Sprinkle the top with the rest of the chopped truffles and set aside in an ice "cave" — a pail that can be closed to keep out salt water will answer the purpose. Let stand an hour in crushed ice and salt. Remove the paper band before serving. Pass at the same time a green vegetable salad. CREAM OP CHICKEN, QLAC^ I cup of double cream. Salt, paprika and celery pepper. I cup of chicken aspic. i cup of cooked chicken breast cut in cubes. Have the chicken breast cut into one fourth inch cubes. Add the seasoning to the cream and beat solid; pour over the cream the aspic, which should be cold but liquid, add the chicken cubes and cut and fold the cubes and jelly into the cream. When begin- ning to set turn the mixture into a brick mould and chill thoroughly on ice. To serve, vmmould as any jelly, cut into slices half an inch thick, and these in halves, as the mixture is rich. With forcing- bag and tube decorate each slice with chicken pur6e, tinted a deli- cate green with vegetable color paste, then chill again. The most CHAUDFROIDS 255 satisfactory way of serving is on individual plates, each resting on a lettuce leaf dressed with French dressing, or on cress leaves and tips, or lettuce cut in ribbons and moistened with French dressing CHICKEN PUREE FOR GARNISH OF ABOVE i cup of cooked chicken pulp. Pepper and salt, i cup of Bechamel sauce. i cup of liquid aspic jelly. i cup of cream. Measure the diicken after it has been chopped, pounded and sifted; add the other ingredients gradually in the order given. CHAUDFROIDS The pleasing appearance of a chaudfroid depends entirely upon the perfect shape of the article selected and the smoothness with which its surface is masked. In the recipe for chaudfroid sauce given on page 209, softened gelatine is added to an ordinary sauce made with roux. Oftentimes, as aspic is used in these dishes, it is more convenient to substitute this in place of gelatine. Being more dUute than solid gelatine the foundation sauce needs be thicker. Use one fourth cup, each, of butter and flour (double the usual quantity) to one cup of brown or white stock, tomato puree or brown stock and tomato piuree combined (terra-cotta color results from this latter combination). To this sauce add while hot from half to an equal quantity of aspic. The sauce is ready to apply when it coats a spoon smoothly, covering imperfections of color. When the sauce is of right temperature, set the saucepan contain- ing it in a dish of lukewarm water, reheating the water as it cools. CHAUDFROID OF TONGUE WITH CUBES OF ASPIC JELLY Cut out the thick portion of a cold cooked and trimmed tongue, leaving a thin strip at the bottom to hold the rest in shape. Cut the portion in thin slices and return to its original place in the tongue; brush the edges with aspic and the tongue to all appear- ance will be whole again. Dip the tip and opposite end of the tongue into melted gelatine and hold in place on a meat board or dish until the gelatine is set and the tongue firmly adheres. Cover tie tongue, which should be chilled by standing on ice, with 2s6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING brown chaudfroid sauce (see page 209) and, when set, decorate the surface with sprigs of parsley and bits of cooked white of egg, first dipping each piece on the end of a larding needle into liquid aspic. When fixed in place cover with a thin coating of aspic jelly, and let stand to become firm. Have ready a large mound of aspic jelly cut in cubes; upon this dispose the tongue and surround the whole with triangles of pickled beet. CHAUDFROID OF SUPREME OF CHICKEN Prepare and cook a dozen "fillets of chicken, plain" (page 245). Set to press imder a weight and when cold trim them neatly and cover with tomato chaudfroid sauce; when the sauce has set, dec- orate one half of the fillets with pieces of truffle, to form a star, and the other half with pieces of hard-boiled white of egg, to form the same design; pour over the fillets a little liquid aspic to set the decoration and give a glossy surface. Chop a little aspic very fine, and with forcing bag and plain tube dispose this around the edge of each fillet. Set aside to become thoroughly chilled. Mix a cup in all of cooked peas, asparagus tips, tiny rounds of carrot, and cubes of turnip, half a cup of mayonnaise dressing, and a cup and one half of liquid aspic. Stir these gently together on ice until beginning to set, then turn into a concave border mould and set aside to become firm. When ready to serve unmould the jellied macedoine on a serving-dish, arrange the fillets upon it, one over- lapping another, and fill the centre with some of the vegetables used in the moulded macedoine, dressed with either French or mayonnaise dressing. Surround the whole with chopped aspic. Medallions of sweetbread, fillets of birds, etc., may be substituted for the chicken fillets. CHAUDFROID OF LAMB OR MUTTON CHOPS Have the chops cut of uniform thickness. If the chop bones aro not to be retained, use the "best end of the loin" dressed by the directions given on page 244. If the chop bone be retained, the chops will be too thick for this purpose imless a thin chop of varying thickness without bone be cut from between the chops with bones. Cut in the latter fashion, trim neatly, retaining only tender meat. Braise the chops, until tender, with fine-cut vegetables, partly cool in the liquid, then finish cooling under a weight Pare the ice-cold chops very neatly and cover with brown or terra-cotta chaudfroid CHAUDFROID OF SWEETBREADS 257 sauce (see page 255). When this is set, decorate with capers and figures cut from cooked white of egg. When these are firmly fixed in place, cover lightly with aspic jelly and sift cooked yolk of egg around the edge. Dress the chops, resting on heart leaves of let- tuce, against a macedoine of vegetable salad. Cover the ends of the bones with paper frills. CHAUDFROID OF SWEETBREADS Cut the parboiled and cooled sweetbreads into halves and cover with chaudfroid sauce (see page 209). Decorate the sauce with bits of truflB.e and white of hard-boiled egg. When the sauce with decoration is "set," brush or pour over it some liquid aspic jelly and set aside to become thoroughly chilled. Serve with lettuce, celery, cress or tomato salad dressed with mayonnaise. Arrange half a tomato and a slice of sweetbread, alternately, in two rows on a dish with heart leaves of lettuce between. Pass mayonnaise in a separate dish. CHAPTER IX Vegetables and Their Cookery "How many things by season seasoned are To their right praise and true perfection!" — Merchant of Venice AVERAGE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF VEGETABLES AS PURCHASED (aTWATEr) Refuse Water Per Per Cent. Cent. Asparagus 94.0 Beans, Butter, green S"- 29-4 Beans, dried 12.6 Beans, Lima. dried 10.4 Beans, Lima, fresh.55.0 30.8 Beans, String, fresh.7 .0 83 . o Beets, fresh 20.0 70.0 Cabbage, fresh 15.0 77.7 Carrots, fresh 20. 70.6 Cauliflower, fresh 92.3 Celery 20.0 75.6 Com, green 61 . 29.4 Cucumbers 15 . 81 . i Eggplant, edible portion 92.9 Lentils, dried 8.4 Lettuce 15.0 80.5 Mushrooms 88. i Oka 12. S 78.9 Carbo- 'rotein Fat hydrates Ash Fuel val. Per Per Per Per per lb. Cent. Cent. Cent. Cent. Calories. 1.8 .2 3-3 •7 los 4-7 ■3 14.6 1.0 370 22.5 1.8 S9-6 3-5 1. 60s 18. 1 i-S 6S-9 4-1 1.62s 3-2 ■3 9.9 .8 2SS 2.1 •3 6.9 ■7 180 1-3 .1 7-7 •9 170 1-4 .2 4.8 •9 "S -9 .2 7-4 •9 160 1.8 -S 4-7 ■7 140 ■9 .1 2.6 .8 70 1.2 • 4 7-7 •3 180 • 7 .2 2.6 •4 70 1.2 ■3 S-i ■S 130 2S-7 1.0 59- 2 5-7 1.620 I.O .2 2.S .8 7S 3-5 • 4 6.8 1 .2 210 1.4 .2 .6-5 ■S iSS 258 VEGETABLES AND THEIR COOKEBY 259 Caroo- Refuse Water Protein Fat hydrates Ash Fuel val Per Per Per Per Per Per per lb. Cent. Cent. Cent. Cent. Cent. Cent. Calories. Onions, fresh 10. o 78.9 14 Parsnips 20.0 66.4 1.3 Peas, green 45.0 40.8 3.6 Potatoes, fresh. .. .20.0 62.6 1.8 Potatoes, Sweet, fresh 20.0 SS.2 1.4 Spinach 92.3 2.1 Squash s°-° 44-2 .7 Tomatoes, fresh 94.3 .9 Turnips 30.0 62.7 .9 3 -8.9 .5 20s 4 10.8 I.I 240 2 9.8 .6 25s 1 14.7 .8 310 6 21.9 .g 460 3 3.2 2.1 no 2 4-5 -4 los 4 3-9 -S los 1 S-7 -6 I2S The vegetarian society will not have existed in vain, if it does nothing more than teach a goodly number of housewives how to cook vegetables properly and in more ways than one, viz: simply boiled and buttered. For this branch of cookery is much neglected. It is safe to say that not more than one family in twenty, and perhaps not in fifty, ever cook celery, save in soup, or squash and turnip other than as plain boiled or mashed, while potatoes are either plain boiled, boiled and mashed, or fried. In the cooking of vegetables the economical and thrifty house- keeper can find fit place for the expression of her genius. The flavor of meat is a pleasing one, but meat in roasts and broiling pieces is the most expensive and not infrequently the least satis- factory item of food that is purchased. The French or Italian housekeeper, with small expenditure of money, adds meat flavor to the cooked vegetable's — beans, cabbage, cauliflower, macaroni, rice, etc., and thus renders a cheap though nutritious food palatable. Cheese also combines well with many vegetables as it does also with grains and macaroni. This making of inexpensive food materials appetizing is the one great end in cookery that the Ameri- can cook needs to attain. It wiU be seen by the analyses given at the head of the chapter that many of the fresh vegetables do not possess a high food value, but they are very valuable at all seasons on account of the saline elements which tiey contain, and in the summer season, when the heat of the body needs to be regulated, they provide for the system large sources of pure water. Different vegetables possess different saline elements, all of which are needed by the system, and each vegetable iii season should be given a place on the table. 26o PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING In hot houses lighted by electric lights, market gardeners can transform the short, dark days of the winter solstice into long, light, and growing days — such as are needed for the rapid growth o{ plant and vegetable. Still, there are but few forced vegetables and fruits that possess the genuine flavor of those that are grown in the natural manner. As a rule, when food is most cheap and plentiful, it is at its best; out of season, it is expensive and lacking in flavor and quality. In the early spring, the provident house- keeper will still make use, to a great extent, of such vegetables and fruits as are seasonable throughout the year, together with such dried articles as she has found most wholesome and palatable, ever bearing in mind how "all things come to him who will but wait." On account of their tough cellular structure, by far the greater number of vegetables are eaten cooked. Their digestibility de- pends upon the degree of tenderness that can be given to their cellular tissue. Of course, the quantity and toughness of cellulose in vegetable products depend much upon the Mnd of plant, the soil, and the season in which it is grown; but under the most favor- able cultivation this framework cannot be entirely eliminated, so that, first of all, thorough cooking, by which it is softened, is en- joined; soft water is an aid in this process, and, where this is not at hand, the solvent property of the water may be enhanced by the use of a few grains of cooking soda. This addition is less objec- tionable in the case of strong-juiced vegetables, like cabbage and onions, cooked in a large quantity of water to lessen the disagree- able flavor or constituents (as sulphur), and from which the water is to be carefully drained before serving. Quite a different plan should be pursued with the sweet-juiced vegetables, as peas and young beans. Of these soda would destroy the delicate green color, while salt would intensify it; little salt, however, should be used, as the water, in which these vegetables are cooked, holds in solution much of the sweet juices and mineral salts, their most valuable constituents, and should be retained for serving with them. Rapid cooking is desirable for strong-juiced vegetables, while a gentle simmering is preferable for the sweet- juiced varieties. When the vegetable is to be dressed with butter, the heat of the vegetable should be sufficient to melt the butter. USE OF SALT IN BOILING VEGETABLES Salt is added to vegetables for savor and, in some cases, to help retain the color of green-colored vegetables, as spinach, peas, USE OF SALT IN BOILING VEGETABLES 261 asparagus, etc. Salt tends to draw out the juices and toughen fibre. Consequently, if color and savor are preferred to texture, or if the vegetables are quickly grown, fresh, and tender, use salt. If the vegetables are wilted and in consequence liable to be tough, add the salt just as they are done, thereby sacrificing color to tenderness. Potatoes, either white or sweet, that are usually tender when boiled, are best boiled in salted water. AU vegetables may be made more delicate in flavor by blanching. To blanch, cover the vegetable with cold water, let boil five minutes, then drain and rinse in cold water; drain again, then cook as usual. Those who live in the country may plant a garden, have a "canner" of some kind, and, in time of plenty, "put up" vege- tables and fruit for winter use. Even those who have no fruit trees often put up fruit. Young and tender asparagus, peas, string beans, beets, and sweet corn, when these are obtainable, may be canned most successfully, and prove truly delectable in taste. But, when the home supplies run short, then is the time to find out the possibilities of dried vegetables and fruit; and few know how tempting they may be made. Dried lima beans, lentils, and flag- eolets (French beans), soaked in cold water over night, cook quickly, and may be served with butter, cream or sauces; with more labor they may be transformed into soups, croquettes, souffles salads, etc. Tomatoes in combination or in sauces give variations to these dishes and, combined with a suspicion of onion impart flavor, which at the present time is demanded in all good cookery. Once having tried celery au gratin — celery alone or with cheese and oysters — or celery in a brown sauce flavored with kitchen bouquet, no part of the head of celery need go to waste. Of course, in any of these dishes whole heads of celery may be used, but, as a matter of economy, the tender inner stalks may be reserved for a "savory," and the coarse outer stalks, that are not palatable un- cooked, may be presented in one of the most pleasing little entrees mentioned above. These, properly seasoned and flavored, in ad- dition to their palatability, give quite an "air" to an ordinary home dinner. Note that the celery will need cooking at least an hour. STEAMING VEQETABLES Vegetables from which the liquid is to be drained may be more satisfactorily cooked by steaming than by boiling. This is espe- cially true of squash and vegetables belonging to the cabbage family. As rapid cooking is desirable the steamer may be placed j62 practical cooking and serving directly over the fire. Then , if the steamer be properly constructed and the range connected with the cliimney, all odor from the cook- ing vegetables is carried out of the house up the chimney. If plenty of water be supplied at the start the steamer need not be opened except to test the extent of cooking. WHEN PREPARING CANNED VEGETABLES It is well to remember that all canned goods are better if the cans be opened some little time before using, that the contents may come in contact with a fresh supply of oxygen. It is needless to add, perhaps, that it is a wholesome precaution to remove the con- tents from the can at once, after it has been opened. Acid fruits, tomatoes, etc., must be removed at once, or ill effects may result from their use. Peas, beans, and, in fact, all vegetables, used apart from the liquid in which they are preserved, should be thoroughly rinsed in cold water, and then scalded quickly in hot water, and drained. They are then ready for seasoning and serving in any manner desired; a little sugar (a teaspoonful to a can) will improve th« taste of peas. Rusty or leaky cans, or cans bulging at the end, should always be discarded. To simplify the matter of cooking vegetables, the things to be determined are: is salt or no salt to be used? is much or little water required? should this be hot or cold? and also is the cooking to be slow or rapid? These things can be best determined by considering whether the vegetable in question be strong or sweet juiced, fresh gathered, wilted or dried. POTATOES (STRONG JUICED) "perfect" potatoes Select ripe new potatoes and scrub them until the outer skin is removed; boil quickly in boiling salted water, drain perfectly dry and dust lightly with salt from the dredger, cover with a cloth and keep hot on the back of the range. Fold the potatoes, singly, in a hot, dry cloth, twist the ends of the cloth in opposite directions tightly, then drop the dry mealy potato, white as snow, into the serving-dish. Serve before they have become cold. IMITATION NEW POTATOES (THE HOTEL MONTHLY) Pick out small, round, ripe potatoes, wash and peel them. Put them into a cheesecloth sack and tie the top. Have ready a sauce- RICED POTATOES 263 pan containing enough of equal parts of niilk and water (slightly salted) to cover the potatoes. Simmer slowly imtil they are done. Lift out the sack, allow them to drain on a colander a few minutes, then place in the oven to dry five minutes. Prepare a rich cream sauce seasoned with butter and salt. Remove potatoes from the sack, put them in a saucepan over hot water, and cover with the sauce. Serve in a deep vegetable dish. BAKED POTATOES First scrub thoroughly with a vegetable brush, then put into a hot oven. Potatoes of moderate size require in baking about forty-five minutes; they are at their best as soon as they are soft throughout. As the heat is usually strongest from above, turn the potatoes, occasionally, to insure even baking. On removal from the oven, break the skin, to let t\ie steam escape, lest the naturally dry, mealy potato become "soggy" from the quickly condensing steam. A potato baked in a slow oven is less digestible than the same when properly boiled. BOILED POTATOES Whether potatoes are to be pared after scrubbing is a matter of taste as well as economy and needs be decided in each individual case. (The United States Government has recently furnished op- portunity for experiments by which the exact quantity of nutritive elements wasted by cooking pared potatoes, both before and after soaking in cold water, could be determined.) Cooked without paring, the skins hold back mineral salts, some proteid and starch, hence where a dietary is restricted it were well to retain the skin. Old potatoes that have lost water by evaporation will be better if they be soaked in cold water, or at least put over the fire to cook in cold water. Let the potatoes be of uniform size and, if large, cut in halves lengthwise. Rapid boiling pulverizes the outside before the centre becomes tender. After the potatoes have become tender proceed as for "perfect" potatoes, omitting the twisting in the cloth. RICED POTATOES Pass through a ricer eight hot boiled potatoes; add three table- spoonfuls of butter, half teaspOonful of salt, and about half cup of hot milk or cream; beat thoroughly with perforated cake spoon, and pass through the ricer or vegetable press about the meat. 264 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING MASHED POTATOES Prepare as riced potatoes; beat luitil very light and fluffy, and pile irregularly in a serving dish, putting a bit of butter here and there in the depressions. POTATOES TO SERVE WITH FISH Pass hot mashed potatoes through a ricer. Add a generous piece of butter, a little salt and hot milk or cream, as needed. Beat thoroughly, and press firmly into a buttered tin. Have the potato about half an inch thick. Cut into diamond-shaped pieces, and score diagonally with a skewer dipped in melted butter. Brush over with yolk of an egg, beaten with a tablespoonful of milk, and brown in the oven. Serve with a teaspoonful of peas in a thick cream sauce, in the centre of each piece. The mixture needs to be dry to retain its shape after heating. Often a table- spoonful of milk will suflBce. POTATO CAKES Shape mashed potato left from dinner into small flat cakes. Dip in sifted flour and saute first one side and then the other in hot salt pork or bacon fat. DUCHESS POTATOES To about a pint of hot riced potatoes add two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, the beaten yolks of three eggs, and enough hot cream or milk to let the mixture pass easily through a forcing-bag with the tube attached. Shape as desired; brush over with a little beaten egg, diluted with milk or water, and brown in a hot oven. POTATO ROSES Fill the forcing-bag with duchess potato mixture (white or sweet). Hold the bag in an upright position, tube pointing downward, and force out the potato; at the proper moment press the tube gently into the mixture and raise it quickly, to break tibe flow. To make another style of rose, use a six-pointed tube, points almost meet- ing. Hold the bag in a position at right angles to that indicated in the first case, and force out the potato in a deeply cleft cord,which FRANCXDNIA POTATOES 265 is coiled round and round in smaller and smaller circles; or shape in bowknots. Shape the roses on a buttered tin sheet, brush over with beaten egg, diluted with milk or water, and brown in the oven. _ Remove with a spatula or broad-bladed knife, and use as a garnish for meat or fish. When used as a border for a creamed dish, set closely together on the serving-dish, to avoid removal. Smaller roses may be arranged between the larger ones, so as to make a solid wall, to retain what may be served within. Some- times the whole wall is built up of small roses, in a manner similar to that in which children make bur baskets. POTATO CROQUETTES AND BOULETTES Omit the hot milk or cream and the yolks of two of the eggs from the duchess potato mixture, add pepper and a few drops of onion juice, shape as desired, then egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat. Add fine-chopped parsley and sweet herbs to the mixture, shape into balls and finish as croquettes, and potato boulettes are formed. Make a well in a ball of the mixture, put into this a tea- spoonful of peas, asparagus, cubes of chicken, etc., in cream sauce, cover with more of the potato mixture, shape as desired, egg-and- bread-crumb, and croquettes en surprise resiUt. ESCALLOPED POTATOES Pare five or six potatoes and cut in thin slices; dispose these in a buttered baking dish in layers; sprinkle the layers with salt and pepper, onion juice, and fine-chopped parsley, dredge with flour and add a few bits of butter. Pour just enough hot milk over the potatoes to cover them and bake in a moderate oven about an hour and a half. This dish may be prepared with cold, boiled potatoes and the time of cooking cut down nearly one half; also the quantity of milk required is less. FRANCONIA POTATOES Pare the potatoes and parboil ten minutes; drain and put on the rack in a pan in which meat is roasting; baste when the meat is basted. Potatoes thus treated will bake in about forty-five min- utes. Cook turnips and large or ripe cucumbers pared and seeds removed, in the same fashion. 266 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BUTTERED POTATO, TURNIP OR CARROT BALLS With a French cutter, cut out potato balls; cook until tender in boiling salted water; drain, pour over them a little melted butter and sprinkle with fine-chopped parsley. Cook turnips or carrots in the same way. POTATOES A LA MAfTRE D'H6tEL Boil one pint of potato balls, cut with French cutter, in boiling salted water about ten minutes; drain, and add one cup of milk. Cream two tablespoonfuls of butter, add the yolk of one egg, beat in well, add also one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one tablespoon- ful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprika; and, when the milk is partly absorbed, stir into the pota- toes quickly. BAKED POTATOES IN THE HALF SHELL Select shapely sweet potatoes of even size; wash and scrub with care. Bake and cut in halves lengthwise. Remove the pulp from the skins and pass it through a ricer. Season with salt, butter, and cream. Beat until smooth, then refill the skins with the mixture, using pastry bag and star tube. Reheat before serving. ' If desired, dust the tops with powdered sugar and cinnamon before reheating. POTATOES ANNA Pare the potatoes (white or sweet) and cut them lengthwise into slices one fourth an inch in thickness; carefully put the slices to- gether, to retain the original shape of tiie potato, and then run two wooden toothpicks, dipped in melted butter, through each potato to hold the pieces together. Parboil ten minutes, then bake either with the roast or separetely, basting with drippings from the roast. Remove the toothpicks: serve as a garnish to the roast. SYRACUSE HOT SALT POTATOES. (THE CATERER) Select potatoes of medium size and smooth skin and scrub clean; have ready a kettle of brine at- the boiling point; put in potatoes, cover and boil until tender; remove from the water and drain. Serve at once. The outside will be covered with salt crystals and the inside will be white and mealy. CANDIED SWEET POTATOES 167 PARISIAN POTATOES Ti^ith French cutter (round vegetable spoon) cut out of uncooked potatoes, pared, a pint of balls. Cook in boiling salted water about ten minutes, or until nearly tender; drain, and toss in a frying- pan, in which there are four tablespoonfuls of melted butter and a little salt. Set the pan in the oven, shaking it frequently, until the potatoes are thoroughly cooked and well browned. Add a little fresh butter, a dash of salt, if needed, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Toss the balls about, to distribute the ingredients evenly, and serve at once. SWEET POTATOES, SOUTHERN STYLE Into a large flat-bottomed saucepan put one fourth cup of butter and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. When hot lay in raw sweet potatoes, pared and cut in halves lengthwise, to cover the bottom; season with salt and pepper and cover not very closely with another layer of potatoes. Pour on boiling water to half cover the lower layer, cover the vessel tightly and set where the heat is gentle. When the lower layer is browned, remove to the top, letting the other brown. When both layers are tender the water should have evaporated, lea\'ing a little sauce to pour over the potatoes in the serving dish. If preferred, this dish may be cooked in a casserole in the oven. SWEET POTATO AND ALMOND CROQUETTES Bake several sweet potatoes. As soon as they are soft, break apart, scrape out the pulp, and pass through a squash strainer. To each pint of pulp add one teaspoonful of salt, two tablespoon- fuls of butter, one beaten egg, three tablespoonfuls of blanched almonds, chopped and pounded in a mortar, and hot milk, or cream, to make of a consistency to handle. Form into the shapes of apples and pears, egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat. Finish with stalks of parsley for stems. CANDIED SWEET POTATOES Pare and parboil half a dozen sweet potatoes, cut in halves lengthwise. After ten minutes' boiling, dram, and lay in a baking- dish. Spread thickly with butter, sprinkle with sugar, and, if 268 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING desired, a little powdered ciiinamon; add a few spoonfuls of hot water and bake until tender, basting often with the sauce in the pan. Use brown or maple sugar. BROILED POTATOES Halve lengthwise cold boiled potatoes, white or sweet; salt them lightly, then dip in melted butter, turning them so as to cover all sides with the butter. Then dispose them on a double-broiler — an oyster or tomato broiler is admirable for this purpose — and broil over a moderate fire, first on one side and then on the other, until well browned. Serve on a folded napkin and a hot dish. DELMONICO POTATOES Chop cold boiled potatoes into bits the size of peas; make a white sauce and stir the chopped potato into it, using a generous cupful of potato to each cup of sauce. Pour into a buttered pud- ding dish, cover the top with buttered cracker crumbs and bake about fifteen minutes in a hot oven. DELMONICO'S CREAM ROLL POTATOES Stir a generous pint of chopped potato (cold boiled) into a pint of cream or white sauce, seasoned with salt, onion juice or celery salt; turn the mixture into a well-buttered frying-pan and cook (covered) in the oven until the sauce is absorbed with the exception of just enough to hold the bits of potato together. Fold one half over the other, or roll from one side over and over as an omelet and turn on to a hot dish. Do not allow the potatoes to brown on the top or bottom. POTATOES WARMED IN MILK Melt two or three tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, and in it toss a pint of cold boiled potatoes sliced thin; when the butter is absorbed, sprinkle with salt and add enough milk to show be- tween the slices, cover and let cook until the milk is nearly ab- sorbed, then turn into a hot serving dish. Sprinkle with fine- chopped parsley. SARATOGA AND BERNHARDT POTATOES With the proper utensils cut pared potatoes into uniform thin slices and curls. Let stand in ice water two hours or more, chang- TONGUE MOULDED IN ASPIC JELLY. (See page 252.) CHAUDFROID OF TONGUE WITH CUBES OF ASPIC JELLY. (See pages 248 and 255) CHAUDFROID OF MUTTON CHOPS. (Seepage 256.) CREAM OF CHICKEN GLACE, WITH CRESS SALAD. (See pace 254.) TIMBALES OF HAM IN CHICKEN ASPIC (bee page 253 ) CHICKJiN CUTLETS WITH CRESS SALAD AND MAYONNAISE DRESSING (See page 251.) POTATO NESTS 269 ing the water once or twice. When ready to cook, fry a few slices at a time in hot fat. The use of a basket makes draining a simple matter. Shake the basket over the kettle and turn the slices upon soft paper; let stand at the mouth of the oven until ready to serve. Sprinkle with salt before serving. Avoid hav- ing the fat too hot. When properly fried th6 slices are of straw color, crisp and tender. The fat should not register higher than 370°, when the potatoes are put in, and should fall during the cooking to 340° or 345°. POTATOES BAKED WITH CHEESE (GERMANY) 4 large cold boiled potatoes. 4 eggs. I pint of cream. 3 ounces of cheese. Salt and paprika. Cut the potatoes into thin slices and arrange in layers in a but- tered dish; sprinkle each layer with cheese, salt, and paprika and pour over a little of the eggs, beaten and mixed with the cream. Bake about half an horn*. Serve as a Ixmcheon dish, or at a family dinner with boiled ham, or broiled beefsteak. WHITE HASHED POTATOES Butter an omelet pan and put into it cold boiled potatoes chopped rather fine; sprinkle with a little salt, scatter bits of butter over the top, and pour over a little white stock or hot water. Cover and cook slowly until thoroughly heated through. Turn out carefully into a hot dish without stirring. Care needs be taken that the potato be not browned, but the stock and butter absorbed. HASHED BROWN POTATOES Chop six cold boiled potatoes very fine, adding half a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Put one fourth cup of fat into the frying-pan, and, when hot, put in the potatoes, and heat quickly and ttioroughly. Press into one side of the pan to form an omelet. When well browned, drain off the fat and turn on to a dish. Fat tried out from salt pork is considered the best. POTATO NESTS Fill the space between the wire baskets made for this purpose ■with raw potatoes, shredded or sliced, and fry one at a time in not 270 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING fat until tender and browned. Remove from the basket and drain on soft paper. Have ready potatoes, cut in small olive or ball shapes (French cutter) fried in hot fat, drained and sprinkled with salt. Dispose these in the nests and sprinkle with fine-chopped parsley. Serve on a folded napkin, or omit the napkin and sur- round with parsley. The wire baskets for shaping these nests come in several sizes. The small size is for individual service. The larger size is for serving three or four people. FRENCH FRIED POTATOES Scrub and pare the potatoes and cut in eighths, lengthwise; let stand in water until all are ready, then dry between towels as they are fried. Fry in a basket and but few at a time. Drain on soft paper and sprinkle with salt. Serve at once, as they retain their crispness but a short time. Avoid having the fat too hot. Often potatoes to be fried are soaked an hour or more in ice water; the question of soaking or not soaking cut potatoes in ice water before frying is a matter of individual taste. When sliced, and left to stand in water, a large quantity of starch is lost, and the potato is probably more crisp. In the other case, the pieces would be softer and more mealy. WHOLE POTATOES, BALLS, CURLS, ETC., FRIED Potatoes, pared whole, may be cooked in hot fat, but the fat should not be too hot, as the potatoes need cook about half an hour. If properly cooked the potatoes will be very mealy. Potatoes for frying are cut in many fanciful shapes. They make an attractive garnish for dishes of broDed meat. MASHED POTATOES WITH PEAS Shape hot mashed potato, seasoned as usual, into balls of the same size. Set on a buttered baking-pan, turned upside down, and with a spatula smooth neatly; brush over with beaten yolk of an egg, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of milk, score a circle on the top of each and set into hot oven to brown. Have ready, cooked peas, seasoned with salt, black pepper and butter. Transfer the balls of potato to a serving-dish, cut around the scoring and take out the piece, and remove some of the potato to form a case; fill •mth the hot peas and serve at once. EGGPLANT 271 STEAMED SQUASH AU QRATIN Steam or boil a small Hubbard squash, cut in halves, until tender. Let dry on the back of the range, then remove from the shell and pass through a squash strainer. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of cream, the beaten yolk of one egg, and salt and pepper to season. Mix thoroughly, and turn into a buttered baking dish, rounding the mixture on the top. Cover with half cup of cracker crumbs, stirred into one fourth cup of melted butter, and bake nearly half an hour in a slow oven. After boiling or steaming, winter squash may also be mashed and seasoned with salt and pepper and butter; or it may be cut into small pieces and baked as potatoes. Summer squash, as also large cucumbers, may be pared and cooked with the roast in the same manner as Franconia potatoes. SUMMER SQUASH STUFFED WITH SHRIMP (CREOLE RECIPE. MRS. HARRIS, OF NEW ORLEANS) Take half-grown squash and simmer whole in water ten minutes. Cut them in halves, U. small, in quarters, if large. Scrape out the interior, leaving the shells, however, thick enough to handle with- out breaking up. Remove seeds, if large. Press all superfluous moistmre out of the vegetable pulp and add to it the following: to enough squash to serve six persons put one cup of bread or cracker crumbs, one onion, and one tomato minced fine, one fourth dove of garlic, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, two cups of shrimp chopped fine, and two tablespoonfuls of lard. Fry the onion and shrimp lightly in the lard, and add to it the tomato and herbs. Into this turn the squash, which has been thoroughly mixed with the crumbs, also salt and pepper, and a beaten egg. Turn over and over with spoon, mixing it again and again. Let the whole cook for about ten minutes. Have the shells arranged in the baking dish. Fill each, rounding nicely. Sprinkle with cracker cnunbs, mixed with melted butter, and bake until brown. Serve hot. The squash may beieaped upon a pie plate, and so baked with- out the shells. Crab, minced ham, veal — almost anything, in fact, which is savory — may take the place of the shrimps. Egg- plant is stuffed in the same way, but needs a little longer boiling than squash. EGGPLANT Remove the skin and cut the plant into slices, one fourth an inch thick. If wilted freshen in cold water before slicing. Dip in fritter 272 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING batter (pages 246 and 499) and saute or fry in deep fat. Drain on soft paper and serve at once. Or dip in egg, then in bread crumbs and saute, first on one side and then on the other, to a golden brown. CAULIFLOWER (STRONG JUICED) Trim off the outside leaves and cut the stalk even with the edible portion, to stand level. Let stand, head downward, in cold salted water half an hour to draw out insects that may be present. Steam or cook head downward and uncovered, in a large kettle of rapid- boiling salted water until tender (about twenty minutes). Re- move any scum that is present on the top of the water before lifting the cauliflower from the vessel. The cauliflower may be tied in a cheesecloth before cooking. Serve with cream, white, Bechamel, Hollandaise or tomato sauce. Cooke^ flowerets of cauliflower are used to garnish dishes of veal, chicken, and sweet- bread. CAULIFLOWER A LA HUNTINQTON (BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL) Steam the cauliflower, prepared as above, in a tightly closed kettle until tender; separate into flowerets and pour over liese the following sauce: mix one teaspoonful and a half of mustard, one teaspoonful and a fourth of salt, one teaspoonful of powdered sugar and one fourth teaspoonful of paprika; add the slightly beaten yolks of four eggs and one fourth cup of olive oil. When thoroughly mixed, add half cup of weak vinegar, in which half a teaspoonful of fine-chopped shallot has infused five minutes. Cook over hot water until slighUy thickened, remove from the fire, add half a tablespoonful of curry powder, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and one teaspoonful or fine-chopped parlsey. CAULIFLOWER AU QRATIN IN CHEESE SHELL (ENTREE) Break a cooked cauliflower into flowerets; put a layer in a shell of Edam cheese, and cover with cream sauce; alternate layers of cauliflower and sauce until the shell is filled, having the last layer of sauce; sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs and set the shell in the oven, to brown the crumbs. Serve a scraping of cheese with each portion of cauliflower. Celery, Brussels sproutSj cab- BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH BUTTER 273 bage or macaroni are also served from a cheese shell. Either white or tomato sauce may be used. CAULIFLOWER WITH MUSHROOMS (VEGETABLE ENTREE) Steam the cauliflower, prepared in the usual manner, until tender, separate into flowerets, and dispose each on a round of buttered toast; chop six mushroom caps and saute five minutes in three tablespoonfuls of butter; add three tablespoonfuls of flour and, when blended with the butter, add gradually a cup and a half of white stock; stir until the boiling point is reached; after all the broth has been added let simmer ten minutes, then remove from the fire and stir in the yolks of three eggs, beaten and diluted with the juice of a lemon; season with salt and pepper and, if the heat of the sauce does not suffice to cook the egg, return to the fire over hot water for five minutes, stirring constantly meanwhile. Pour this over the flowerets of cauliflower on the toast, sprinkle with buttered crumbs and brown quickly in a very hot oven. If served on a large dish, garnish with mushrooms stuffed and baked. Served individually, omit the garnishing. FRIED CAULIFLOWER Clean and separate a cauliflower into its flowerets, and trim the stalks to a point. Let cook five minutes in boiling water; drain and let cook again in fresh boiling water until tender, adding a level tablespoonful of salt to the water; drain again, and roll eadi floweret in sifted bread crimabs, cover with a beaten egg, diluted with two tablespoonfuls of water, drain off the egg, and roll a second time in bread crumbs; or dip in batter. When ready to serve, fry to a golden brown in deep fat, and drain on soft paper. Serve piled on a folded napkin, with sprigs of parsley between the flowerets, or serve as an entree with sauce Tartare or tomato sauce. BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH BUTTER Boil one quart of Brussels sprouts in two quarts of salted water, about fifteen minutes, or until tender. Let drain on a cloth, then toss in a frying-pan with a scant fourth cup of butter, until the butter is absorbed; sprinkle with one teaspoonfui of chopped pars- ley and a dash of salt; mix and arrange in a mound on a serving- dish. Surround with points of toasted or fried bread. 374 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING CABBAGE (STRONG JUICED) Remove the bruised outside leaves, and cut in halves or quarters; cut out the hard centre; soak in salt and water. Cook in the same manner as cauliflower, either steaming or boiling. Cabbage is particularly good served au gratin. Use layers of cooked cabbage, chopped, and white sauce; grated cheese may be added to the layers, thus making a very substantial dish. STUFFED CABBAGE Cut out the stalk end of a head of cabbage, leaving a hollow shell. Chop two pounds of uncooked beef with a slice of bacon and onion; add one cup of breadcrumbs, soaked and wrung dry, one beaten egg, salt, pepper, and mace. Shape into balls, arrange in the cabbage, add strips of sweet pepper, and steam until the cab- bage is tender. Serve with tomato sauce. Cooked meat may be used by adding more eggs — whole eggs or the whites — to hold the meat together. ONIONS (STRONG JUICED) Unless the onions be very mild or young, when boiling change the water two or three times, replenishing each time with cold water and draining, when the boiling point is reached. Cook until very tender. Drain and serve with butter or cream, or a white sauce. Onions left over may be cut in thin slices and dis- posed in a buttered gratin dish in layers with white sauce, then covered with buttered crumbs and set into the oven, to reheat and brown the crumbs. Onion puree is particularly good with mutton chops. STUFFED ONIONS Cook ten or twelve onions in salted water, changing the water twice, about an hour, or until nearly tender; drain and cool. Take out the centre of each onion wi&out disturbing the outside layers; to this add six mushrooms, saut6d five minutes in butter; chop fine, add half a cup of bread crumbs and cream or white sauce to mix; season with salt, pepper and butter and fill the open space in the onions with the mixture. Put in a buttered baking dish, sprinkle the top with three fourths cup of cracker crumbs, stirred into a fourth cup of melted butter, and bake about twenty minutes, TURNIP PUREE 275 basting carefully with a little butter and hot water. The onions may also be stuffed with pork sausage. Thus stuffs they become an appropriate garnish for roast turkey or sparerib of pork. ONION SOUFFLE Melt one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan and add one tablespoonful of flour, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of paprika. When smoothly mixed, add one cup of milk. When the sauce boils, add half a cup of stale bread crumbs (from centre of loaf), a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one cup of cold boiled onions, chopped fine, and the yolk of an egg well beaten. Beat the whites of two eggs very stiff, and fold them into the onion mixtiu"e. Bake in a buttered pudding dish, in a moderate oven, about fifteen minutes. Serve at once with or without cream sauce. TURNIP CHARLOTTE (TURNIPS, STRONG JUICEP) Cook slices of carrots and turnips one fourth an inch thick until tender, drain and use them to Ime a buttered charlotte mould. Boil white turnips until tender; drain, and press through a fine sieve. To one cup of puree add one fourth teaspoonful of salt, a dash of white pepper, a grating of nutmeg, one fourth cup of thick cream, and, lastly, the stiff-beaten whites of three eggs. Bake in the decorated mould, standing in a pan of water, until rtie centre becomes firm. Turn from the mould and serve with veloute, white or Bechamel sauce. TURNIP PUREE Scrub and pare about six white turnips. Cut them into slices, cover with cold water, and bring quickly to the boiling point. Drain and blanch by rinsing in cold water, then cover with salted boiling water, and cook untS tender. Drain and turn into a cloth, and wring out the moisture. Pass through a squash strainer or, better still, a pur& sieve, then return to the fire to heat. Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter, cook in this two tablespoonfuls of flour, and, when frothy, add the turnip and one fourth cup of thick cream, with salt and pepper. Stir constantly until the mixture boils, then turn into the serving dish. Chestnuts, cauli- flower, onions, peas, beans, celery, spinach, etc., all make good purees for garnish of fish or meat dishes. The recipe given above. 276 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING will, with minor changes, evident to all, serve for any puree. The method of sifting is the same in any case — i.e., with a wooden spoon rub the material through a strong wire sieve of medium mesh, first placing the sieve firmly bottom upward over a plate and scrap- ing the material from the under side as it passes through. In some cases, as always with meat and fish, the vegetable will pass through the sieve more readily, if it be first mixed with the sauce, etc. TURNIP BALLS, POULETTE SAUCE With a French potato cutter cut out a pint of balls from large white turnips. Put over the fire in cold water, acidulated with one or two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice or vinegar, and let cook five minutes after boiling begins, then drain, rinse in cold water and cook until tender in chicken broth. Skim out the turnip balls and thicken the broth with a tablespoonful and a half, each, of butter and flour, creamed together — there should be about a cup and a half of broth — let simmer ten minutes, then add the beaten yolks of two eggs diluted with half a cup of cream. Season to taste with salt and white pepper, add the balls and let stand over hot water until very hot. A tablespoonful of lemon juice improves this dish for some. If a French cutter be not at hand, cut the turnips in cubes of imiform size, or cut out cylinders with an apple corer, then cut these into half-inch lengths. TURNIPS IN CREAM Peel and slice the turnips; blanch and cook until nearly tender in salted water. Drain and cut into cubes, one fourth an inch thick. Simmer ten or fifteen minutes in sweet cream. Season with salt, sugar, and white pepper, add one or two tablespoonfuls of butter and shake the pan until the butter is blended with the other in- gredients. Serve in a hot dish. BEETS Wash beets carefully to avoid breaking the skin and so loss of , color while boiling. Boil rapidly until tender. New beets will cook in one or two hours. Old beets can hardly be cooked enough. When tender drain and cover with cold water to loosen the skins. The skins should be removed with the hands. Season with salt, pepper, and butter. If the beets be large, cut ASPARAGUS SALAD MOULDED IN ASPIC JELLY. (See page 321.) ,aa«a EGG-AND-TOMATO JELLY SALAD. (See page 326.) SALMON SALAD. (See page 328.) GREEN CORN CUSTARD WITH BROILED TOMATOES. (See page 284.) CREAMED MACARONI IN CHEESE SHELL. (See page 28^ MUSHROOMS coo:: FLAGEOLETS 277 in slices. Beets left over may be covered with vinegar and kept for several days. Beets baked in a hot oven are particularly good. When cooked cut these in slices, dress with butter, pepper and salt. STRING BEANS Remove all the srings from the beans. Lay several pods to- gether on a meat board and cut all at once into Small pieces of equal length, cutting straight across or diagonally. Cook in salted boiling water until tender; drain, add salt, pepper and a generous piece of butter and toss together thoroughly while they are standing on the back of the range; cream, meat juice, chopped parsley, onion juice, lemon juice, bits of red or green pepper sauted in butter, tomato, poulette or soubise sauce are all exceptionally good additions to a dish of cooked string beans. Or the liquid in which the beans are cooked may be thickened with a white roux; when the addition of a beaten yolk of an egg with a little cream gives a more substantial dish. STRINGED BEANS WITH BACON Cut one or two slices of tender bacon into cubes and saute to a delicate brown, then add the hot cooked beans with a few drops of onion juice; toss them about a moment or two, then serve. LIMA BEANS Cook in boiling salted water until tender, drain and season in any of the ways given for string beans. FLAGEOLETS French beans (flageolets) come to us dried and canned. The cost of the dried bean is about thirty-five cents per pound; one fourth a pound is enough for a family of five, at a meal where some other substantial is served. To preserve the green color, set to cook, without soaking, in cold salted water, bring quickly to the boiling point, change this water for other boiling water, salted as before, and replenish with boiling water as needed. Let simmer imtil perfectly tender. Season with pepper and butter; onion juice or lemon juice, and chopped parsley may be added at dis- cretion. Flageolets make a good puree. 278 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING ASPARAGUS (SWEET JUICED) In its native habitat, on the shores of the Mediterranean, asparagus sends up its delicate shoots twice in the year; but, cul- tivated in our colder clime, this wild seashore plant has a short season. On this account, as well as for its diuretic qualities and the general favor with which it is received, we shall do well to serve it often while it is in season. Men who have written on cookery expatiate to great extent on the cooking of asparagus. Thudichum insists that it is " almost invariably overboiled by modem cooks." He says that cooks should remember the Roman saying, which becomes applicable when anything is to be done quickly: "Do it in no more time than is necessary to boil asparagus." Asparagus should be fully cooked, and yet each stalk should be left intact and possess a certain crispness. Sir Henry Thomp- son advises that "the stalks be cut of exactly equal lengths, tied in a bunch and boiled, standing tips upward in a deep saucepan; nearly two inches of the tips should be out of water, the steam sufficing to cook them, while the hard, stalky part is rendered soft and succulent by the longer boiling which this plan permits." By the latter authority, then, a longer time is required for cook- ing asparagus than the conventional twenty minutes almost in- variably prescribed by most writers, and our own experience is in harmony with this view. Fresh-cut asparagus, grown in warm, moist weather, may be cooked in the conventional time; but after it has been kept, or when it has been grown in a dry, hot season, the time of cooking must be perceptibly lengthened. The Gernian frau adds a, small piece of butter — a teaspoonful to a quart — to the water in which both asparagus and peas are to be cooked; a sprig of mint is also added to the peas. These are valuable adcitions, when the quality of the vegetable is doubtful, otherwise there is no material gain. Salt added to the water heightens the green color of both these vegetables, and this con- diment is not unpleasing to most palates. The tender tips of asparagus, called "asparagus peas" are served in consomm6, in omelets, either with or wiUiout sauce, and in scrambled eggs. Three asparagus stalks, held in two rings cut from cooked carrots, make an appropriate garnish for roast mutton. Opinions differ as to the serving of asparagus with toast, but as the stalks will not absorb all the liquid in which they are cooked, no matter how carefully the cooking is carried out, and as this is ASPARAGUS PATTIES 279 too valuable to waste, the toast is, sometimes at least, worthy of consideration. ASPARAGUS EN BRANCHES Scrape the coarse scales from the branches, cut in equal lengths and tie in bunches. Cook the asparagus in a small quantity of water, drain and dispose on a well toasted and buttered slice of bre^,d. Rub the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste, add one fourth teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; then gradually beat into the egg enough butter, softened but not melted, to make a sauce of the consistency of mayonnaise dressing. Mask the asparagus with the sauce and serve at once. Bechamel, white, Hollandaise, and Bernaise sauce (hot or cold) are all used with asparagus. ASPARAGUS BAKED WITH CHEtSE I bunch of asparagus. i cup of asparagus stock. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. J cup of cream. 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. The yolks of two eggs. i teaspoonful of salt. Grated Parmesan cheese. I cup of white stock or Buttered cracker crumbs. Scrape the scales from the stalks, wash and tie the asparagus in a bunch. Cook in boiling salted water until nearly tender and drain carefully. Make a sauce of the butter, flour, seasoning, stock, and cream; add the yolks and two tablespoonfuls of cheese. Stir the sauce until the cheese melts, but do not let it boil. Put the asparagus and sauce into a buttered oval baking dish in layers, having the asparagus tips at one end of the dish and covering only two thirds the length of the stalks with sauce. Sprinkle each layer of sauce with cheese, having the last layer sauce. Cover with buttered cracker crumbs and set the dish in the oven long enough to brown the crumbs. The ends of the stalks being uncovered avail in serving the dish to advantage. The tender portions of the asparagus, cut in half inch lengths before cooking, may be used instead of the whole stalks. ASPARAGUS PATTIES Make a sauce of three level tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, and half a cup, each, of chicken broth, cream, and the water in which a bunch oi asparagus has been boiled. Add the beaten 28o PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING yolks of two eggs, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, salt and pepper, and a bunch of hot asparagus, cut in small pieces and cooked until tender. Serve in hot puff-paste shells, in cases made of fritter batter or in bread croustades. ASPARAGUS, SPANISH STYLE Cook the asparagus tied in a bunch, the tips out of the waterj or cut the tender portion in small pieces, put aU but the tips over the fire to cook and when partly cooked add the tips. Drain the asparagus and turn into a serving-dish; add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or lemon juice to the water, and in it poach three or f c*ur eggs; place the eggs in the asparagus and pour over the whole French dressing, to which a teaspoonful, each, of fine-chopped parsley, capers and cucumber pickles have been added. BOILED ASPARAGUS, MOUSSELINE SAUCE Prepare and cook as usual. When tender drain, and serve on a slice of toast, pouring the sauce over the asparagus. Siurround with fanciful shaped bits of bread, saut6d in butter. For the sauce beat two tablespoonfuls of butter to a cream; add the yolks of four eggs, one at a time; then add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, one fourth a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of paprika. Cook over hot water until the sauce thickens, then add two tablespoonfuls of butter in three parts, incorporating each part before another is added. Lastly beat in one foiurth a cup of thick cream. Serve when thoroughly heated. The sauce should be thick and frothy. SPINACH Spinach, which is quickly and easily grown, is in the market at all seasons of the year except a short time in midsmnmer and mid- winter. When young the stems may be retained, but if at all old the leaves only should be used. Kitchen scissors are useful in preparing this vegetable for cooking. Careful cleansing is needed; five or six applications of water will render it none too free of sand. The smaller the quantity of water used in cooking the better, and this should be retained for use in some way, as it contains the salts in composition, the most valuable constituent of the spinach. As considerable water dings to the leaves in washing, but little more needs be added. A gentle simmering will cook the tender leaves SPINACH BALLS 281 very quickly. Salt should be added to preserve the color. The French call this vegetable the broom of the stomach. SPINACH IN A CROWN OF EQQS Cook a peck of spinach in boiling salted water until tender, then chop fine. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, and cook in it, without browning, two tablespoonfuls of flour. Add a gratin of nutmeg and the spinach. When well blended add half a cup of hot stock, or water in which the asparagus was cooked. Form into a mound and garnish with hard-boiled eggs. The white of egg, cut from the half-eggs to make them stand level, may be chopped fine and massed on the top of the mound (see illustration). SPINACH WITH SARDINES Heat one cup of grated bread crumbs in one fourth cup of but- ter; add a peck of spinach leaves, cooked and chopped, and the flesh of a dozen or more sardines. Mix and add broth, if needed, also salt and pepper. When hot form into an oblong. Garnish with slices of eggs, and place sardines over the top. Serve as a luncheon dish. Cooked spinach makes a good mound against which broiled chops may be served . SPINACH A LA BECHAMEL Drain the spinach and chop fine, or pass through a sieve. Return to the saucepan, and for each pint of spinach add a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper. Stir over the fire until the spinach is hot; then add the beaten yolk of an egg diluted with one third cup of cream. Stir and cook a moment or until blended. SPINACH BALLS (ADAPTED FROM "GOLDEN AGE COOK BOOK") Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour and half a teaspoonful of sugar. When blended, add a tablespoonful of cream and three fourths cup of cooked spinach, chopped fine. Beat well, remove from the fire and add two eggs, one at a time. Season with salt and pepper, to taste, and a few grains of mace. Butter a tablespoon and fill with the spinach mixtture, making it level with the edge of the spoon, and poach in 282 PRACnCAL COOKING AND SERVING a saucepan of boiling water four or five minutes or until firm. The water must not boil hard, but simply simmer very gently at one side. Six or more balls may be cooked at one time. Let drain in a colander while making a cream sauce; reheat the balls in the sauce, and serve. A teaspoonful of the sauce with three or four capers may be placed on the top of each ball, and the rest of the sauce poured around the balls. CELERY WITH SAUCE Trim away the outside leaves of three heads of celery, cut the roots to a point and trim off the tops of the stalks, leaving the heads six inches in length; wash and blanch ten minutes in boiling water, drain, cover with cold water, and wash carefully. Tie the heads in a bundle and put in a stewpan with a pint and a half of boiling stock or water, or half of each. Add one fourth cup of fat from the top of the stock, half a carrot, half an onion, a teaspoonful of salt and a few grains of cayenne; cover and let simmer an hoiu- or until tender. Drain out lite celery, strain the liquid, and remove the fat; use the liquid in making about a cup of brown sauce. Pour this over the celery. Garnish with cutlet-shaped pieces of bread fried in butter. CREAMED CELERY IN CHEESE SHELL Cut the cleaned celery stalks in pieces an inch long, and let cook in boiling water to cover until tender. For three cups of pieces make a pint of white sauce, using the water in which the celery was cooked, with cream as the liquid. Turn into the shell of an Edam cheese, cover the top with half a cup of cracker cnunbs, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, and let brown in the oven. Serve a light scraping of cheese with each service of celery. For a more elaborate service, add parboiled oysters with the celery, and use the oyster liquor in making the sauce as a part of the liquid. CHEESE AND CELERY AU QRATIN I pint of cooked celery. f cup of grated cheese. I pint of white sauce. } cup of cracker crumbs, i cup of melted butter. Have the celery cut in half-inch pieces before cooking. Use the water in which it was cooked with white stock and cream in making SWEET CORN 2^z the sauce. Put alternate layers of celery and sauce in a buttered au gratin dish and sprinkle each layer with cheese. Cover the top with the cracker crumlas mixed with the melted butter and any cheese remaining. Set in the oven to brown the crumbs. Garnish with curled celery, celery leaves, and quarters of hard-boiled eggs. PEAS (SWEET JUICED) If the pods are clean and fresh, cook part of them with water to cover half an hour. Strain the water through a cheesecloth, reheat and use as the liquid in which to cook the peas. Freshty gathered tender peas should cook in twenty minutes. In cooking peas use no more liquid than it takes to cover them, season with salt, pepper and butter. Cream, broth or meat extract may be added. A little sugar is sometimes an improvement. Cubes of carrots, cooked separately, also are added to a dish of peas. This is a German custom. Peas alone or combined with carrots, turnips and potatoes are also served in cream sauce or in a curry sauce. PEA TIMBALES Mix one cup of pea pulp with two beaten eggs, a few drops of enion juice, two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, one tablespoonful of melted butter, two thirds teaspoonful of salt, one eighth teaspoonful of black pepper, and a few grains of cayenne. Turn into buttered moulds and bake in a pan of hot water until firm. Serve with one cup of white sauce, to which has been added one third cup of cooked and drained peas. These may be made of fresh, dried or canned peas. In season- ing a teaspoonful of fine-chopped mint leaves is approved by many. For variety or the sake of color add to the sauce, with the peas, cubes or figures cut from carrot, cooked tender, SWEET CORN Corn on the cob is thought to be sweeter and better flavored, if it be cooked without disturbing the husk; but, as the removal of the silk and husk is convenient after cooking, it is quite customary to strip down the husk, break the com from the stem, then remove the sUk, replace the husk, tie the end tightly, and let cook in milk and water, half and half, about fifteen minutes after boiling begins. Serve in lie husks. The liquid may be used for a com or mock bisque soup. 284 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING GREEN CORN CUSTARD WITH BROILED TOMATOES Cut com from young ears to make one cup; add to four eggs, beaten slightly with half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of paprika, a few drops of onion juice and a cup and a quarter of milk. Bake in buttered moulds in hot water. When firm turn from the moulds and surround with slices of broiled tomatoes. Serve with cream sauce. When green com is out of season, komlet may be used. Three fourths cup will be enough. KENTUCKY CORN CROQUETTES Grate enough corn to make one quart of pulp; add one pint of cream or milk and cook twenty minutes in a double-boiler. Add two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and grated cheese, one teaspoon- ful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of pepper and two well-beaten eggs. Set aside to cool. When cold form into two-inch squares one inch thick. Egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in hot fat; or bake in the oven until brown. If the mixture be too moist to shape, add a little rolled cracked meal. GREEN CORN FRITTERS (MOCK OYSTERS) To one pint of grated com pulp add enough sifted cracker crumbs to hold the mixture together, also half a teaspoonful of baking- powder with salt and pepper to taste. Drop the mixture from a teaspoon into hot fat, making the fritters the size of an oyster. Fry to a light brown color and drain on soft paper. Serve on a folded napkin. SUCCOTASH Scrape, wash, and score in quarter-inch slices a quarter of a poimd of salt pork. Cover with boilihg water and let simmer five or six hours, or xmtil nearly tender. Add one pint of fresh-shelled lima beans and more water, if needed. When the beans become tender, add one pint of sweet com pulp. Cook about fifteen minutes, and add two tablespoonfuls of butter, or a httle sweet cream, and salt if needed. Pour the succotash into the serving-dish, slice the pork in the scorings, and serve at once. This dish is particularly good prepared with dried beans and either dried or canned com. If dried vegetables be used, let soak over night in cold water. To remove the pulp from the ears of corn without the hull, with a sharp STEWED TOMATOES 2S3 knife cut down through the centre of each row of kernels, then with the back of the knife press out the pulp, leaving the hull on the cob. For a change, add a cup of reduced tomato pulp, seasoning accordingly; or an onion may be cooked with the beans and re- moved before the dish is sent to the table. PARSNIPS Parsnips are at their best in the spring (the sweet flavor developed in the ground through the winter being entirely wanting in the fall) . To prepare, wash and scrape until clean and cook until tender — it will take about an hour — cut in halves they will cook in less time. When tender put into a hot serving-dish, sprinkle with salt and put over them butter, in bits. Or simply scrub the parsnips with a brush and cook until tender, then throw them into cold water to remove the skins; cut in sUces, dip in floiu: and saut6 in hot salt pork fat. PARSNIP FRITTERS Mash the parsnips, after boiling and removing the skin, season with salt, pepper and butter. Flour the hands or dip them in cold water and shape the mixture into small cakes. Dip these cakes in flour and saute in hot salt pork fat or butter. CARROTS Wash and scrape thoroughly, cut in halves, in balls or other shapes, boil until tender in boiling water, drain and toss in butter, salt and pepper, or in a maitre d'h6tel butter. Carrots cut into fanciful shapes may be served alone, or in combination with other vegetables, in brown, white or curry sauce, or in salads. STEWED TOMATOES Use either fresh or canned tomatoes. If fresh tomatoes are at hand, dip them into boiling water a moment to remove the skins. Cut them in shces and stew in an agate-ware or porcelain dish until tender, adding meanwhile for a quart of tomatoes half a cup of fine bread crumbs, stale but not dried. Season with a teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, pepper to taste, and two or three tablespoonfuls of butter. 286 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING SCALLOPED TOMATOES AND ONIONS. (MRS. McEWEN, OHIO) Use very tender new onions, or onions previously cooked and left over. If new onions are selected, cut in thin slices and saute in hot butter a few moments without discoloring the onion. Butter an agate serving-dish; put in a layer of sliced tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with buttered bread or cracker crumbs, then add a layer of onion slices; continue in the same order, having the last layer of crumbs, until all the ingredients are used. Bake in a moderate oven half to three fourths an hoxu-. BROILED TOMATOES Cut the tomatoes in halves without removing the skin, dip in oil or melted butter, then season with salt and pepper, and dip in fine cracker crumbs. Put between a well-oiled tomato or oyster broiler, and cook imtil the crumbs are brown, turning often, so as to avoid burning the crumbs. STUFFED TOMATOES A LA SICILIENNE Select a dozen smooth tomatoes of same size. Remove a round piece about an inch in diameter from the stem end of each. Re- move the seeds and pulp, to leave a shell, and chop the pulp fine. Put into a saucepan four tablespoonf uls of butter and saute in this half an onion chopped fine, then add a pint of chopped mushrooms and stir and cook until the moisture evaporates; now add the tomato pulp, half a cup of lean ham, cooked and chopped fine, half a cup of bread crumbs (stale not dried), a few leaves of sweet herbs, tied in a parsley branch, salt and pepper with broth or thickened sauce to moisten, stir and cook imtil thoroughly heated, then remove the parsley branch and fill the tomatoes. The mix- ture should not be too moist. Set the tomatoes in a baking pan, and sprinkle with grated cheese and buttered crumbs. Bake about half an hour in a moderate oven. STUFFED TOMATOES A LA CAROLINE Select a dozen roimd tomatoes of the same size. Remove a piece about an inch in diameter from the blossom end of each and take out the seeds. Cook a cup of rice in a quart of well-seasoned SALSIFY 287 broth, with half a green pepper cut fine. When the rice is nearly tender, add half a cup of butter and mix thoroughly, but carefully, to avoid breaking the grains of rice. Fill the tomato shells with the rice; put back the covers, set in a baking pan, stem end down, brush over the outside with olive oil or melted butter and bake, half an hour in a moderate oven. Remove carefully to a serving dish and pour around the tomatoes a cup of highly seasoned to- mato sauce. CANNED TOMATOES WITH SAVORY CUSTARD MLs together one pint of tomatoes (canned), one fourth cup of grated bread crumbs (centre of loaf passed through a colander), one tablespoonful of fine-chopped onion, one teaspoonful of sugar, and salt and pepper to taste; pour into a buttered baking dish. Beat four eggs, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of sugar, and a cup and a half of milk; pour over the tomato mixture, and bake in a slow oven until set (about three fourths an hour). CANNED TOMATO AND CHEESE PUDDING Mix one pint of canned tomatoes, one cup of grated bread crumbs, one third cup of grated cheese (American factory cheese), half teaspoonful of salt, and pepper to taste, and pour into a buttered baking dish. Mix one third cup of bread crumbs with one table- spoonful of melted butter and two tablespooniuls of grated cheese, spread over the top and bake about twenty minutes. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Wash and scrape the desired number of artichokes. Cover with boiling salted water and cook until tender (about half an hour), drain, dust with salt, and set on the back of the range to evaporate the moisture. Serve with melted butter, or with white or Bechamel sauce. SALSIFY This vegetable is usually scraped before cooking, and much care is necessary — soaking and cooking in acidulated water, etc. — to keep it from discoloring. A better plan would be to scrub the roots carefully — a vegetable brush is indispensable in cleaning all root vegetables — and cook without scraping; then peel care- 288 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING fully and cut in small pieces before sending to the table. Salsify may be served with butter and seasoning, but it is better when dressed with a white sauce. It is also served au gratin. A tea- spoonful of lemon juice may be added to the sauce, or sprinkled over the cooked salsify, before the sauce is poured over it. It is particularly good served au gratin. OKRA Procure young and tender pods (see Okra Soup) and cut off both ends to make the pods uniform length (about two inches). Blanch the pods, then lay them in a saucepan, add hot stock just to cover, and let simmer until tender and the stock is reduced. Serve on a hot plate dressed with Bechamel, HoUandaise or any sauce used with asparagus. Garnish with sippets of toast points, or cutlet shapes. A little lemon juice should be added to a Bechamel or a drawn-butter sauce that is to be served with okra. OKRA SAUTE (CREOLE STYLE) Chop a peeled onion, a clove of garKc, and half a red or green sweet-pepper pod, and saute in a little butter without browning; add six or eight tomatoes, peeled and cut in quarters, and let simmer half an hour, then add about a dozen boiled okra pods; cover the pan and let simmer until the mixture thickens. Season with salt. Serve on slices of hot buttered toast. MUSHROOMS For centuries epicures have sung the praises of mushrooms as an article of food and devised choice recipes for their preparation. But it was left to the present generation to call them the "beef- steak of the vegetable kingdom," and to assert that "mushrooms contain the same nutritive value as meat." By comparing the composition of mushrooms and of meat (see headings of chapters on Vegetables and Beef) the truth or falsity of such statements can be easily verified. By the late analysis at the agricultural experiment stations it would seem, as far as nutritive value is concerned, that mushrooms rank higher than most green vegetables and are about on a par with green peas and beans. At present the price of cultivated mushrooms places them in PREPARATION OF MUSHROOMS 2S9 the list of luxuries; and as all mushrooms, particularly those grow- ing wild, spoil very quickly and must of necessity be cooked soon after gathering, it would seem that fungi cannot be listed as a standard article of food. They may be successfully dried or canned at home; and either in this condition, or when fresh gathered, they may avail to give a pleasing variety to the dietary or, in small quantities, add relish to many an otherwise tasteless dish. The mushroom, Agaricus campestris, which is cultivated for the market in hothouses and cellars, is also foimd wild; the death cup, poisonous Amanita, the poisonous principle of which is one of the tox-albumins (the poisons which produce death in cholera and diphtheria and for which there is no known antidote), belongs to the same family: fimgi with gills. The various members of this family have so many things in common that none but an expert can say with certainty this is edible, that is not. The risks attendant upon the eating of poisonous mushrooms are too serious to warrant any other than those who have become proficient — by the most careful observation and study — in the exact classification of fungi, in attempting to gather wild mush- rooms for the table. Exceptions may be made in the case of amateurs who have learned to distinguish full-grown Ctoima (coral mushrooms), puff balls, and morels; these belong to families in which there are no known poisonous species; they have "hallmarks" by which, after passing the button stage of growth, it is possible to distinguish them with certainty and, if Siey be fresh and free from insects, the amateur may gather and eat them with impunity. As to methods of determining the character of other species of mush- rooms, there are none save actual knowledge of the most minute characteristics of the different groups or genera. The silver spoon test cannot be relied upon, in fact, it is no test at all, as certain varieties of both poisonous and edible mushrooms will turn silver black. The novice must discard all button mush- rooms and all mudirooms with swollen base surrounded with any sort of an envelope. Button mushrooms are not developed suf- ficiently to be accurately known and some of the poisonous varie- ties have an enlarged base. PREPARATION OF MUSHROOMS FOR COOKING Trim off the earthy end of the stalk, and wipe the cap with a .damp doth (avoid washing when possible, as soaking in water 29© PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING tends to destroy the flavor). If the skin be tough, remove by peel- ing. The stems and the skin upon the caps of the common mush- room, AgaricUs campestris, are tough and require longer cooking than does the flesh of the cap. On this account the peeled caps are often used in one dish and the trimmings, chopped fine, are added as a flavor to some other dish. If not needed for immediate use the trimmings may be dried in the wanning oven and stored in a tight-closed bottle or bag, for future use. Many think that the peculiar mushroom flavor is heightened or brought out more fully by first of all sauteing the mushrooms, pre- pared for cooking, in a little hot butter. Some ways of cooking mushrooms are better adapted to one variety than to another. Occasionally, to prevent discoloring, mushrooms are sprinkled with lemon juice after being peeled or broken into pieces; this, however, detracts from the mushroom flavor. TO KEEP MUSHROOMS TEMPORARILY Nina Marshall in "The Mushroom Book" is authority for the following: "To keep mushrooms temporarily, cleanse, remove the parts to be rejected, rinse in cold water the parts to be used, dry with a cloth, then put in boiling water and keep boiling for five or ten minutes. Drain and wipe (icy." Thus prepared, the water in which the mushrooms are cooked should be retained for use in sauce or soup. STEWED MUSHROOMS Saute the peeled caps, broken in pieces if large, in a little hot butter; add tiiin cream enough to rather more than half cover, cover the saucepan and let simmer very gently about twenty minutes. Serve with crackers, puff-paste diamonds or sippets of toast. Milk or stock may take the place of the cream and a little thickening of roux, or flour and water, may be added, when the mushrooms are half-cooked. SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS Peel the mushrooms and break them into pieces. If it be de- sired to serve them very white, throw the pieces, sprinkled with lemon juice, into boiling water; allow them to stand two or three minutes, then pass into cold water. Dry carefully and saute in hot butter three or four minutes. To two cups of mushrooms add CHAMPIGNONS A LA ALGONQUIN 291 three tablespoonfuls of flour and half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Stir and cook until the flour has become absorbed by the butter, then add one cup of stock, milk or cream. Stir until the sauce boils, then simmer very gently ten minutes. 'Add one tea- spoonful of lemon juice, a dash of paprika, and one fourth tea- spoonful of salt. Remove from the fire. Beat the yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk or cream and stir into the mixture. Fill buttered shells with the preparation. Stir one cup of cracker crumbs into one third cup of melted butter, and spread the crumbs over the top of the preparation. Let the dish stand in the oven long enough to brown the crumbs. PUFF BALLS All puff balls are edible when gathered at the white stage. Wipe carefully, cut off the base, then peel. Cut in slices about an inch in thickness. Season with salt and pepper, and saute in a little butter, or dip in beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry to a golden brown, in smoking hot fat. Perhaps they are more delicate broiled. In this case, season with salt and pepper, dredge lightly with flour, and broil over a fire not too bright. Remove from the broiler, spread with butter, and serve on a hot platter. Puff balls are particularly good when sauted in bacon fat, or broiled and served with bacon as a garnish. PUFF BALL STEW Peel and trim the fungi. Cut into small cube-shaped pieces, cover with white stock, milk or water, and simmer twenty minutes; when they have cooked five minutes, stir into them (for a pint) two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour creamed together. When tender season with salt and pepper, add a little cream or butter and a teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley. Serve with crackers. CHAMPIGNONS A LA ALGONQUIN Have ready in a baking pan as many rounds of stale bread as mushrooms. Remove the stems from the mushrooms, peel the caps, and saut6 them in a little hot butter. Put a cap on each round of toast, gill side up. Put an oyster on each mushroom and a bit of butter on each oyster and dust ihe whole with salt and pepper. Bake in a hot oven until the oysters look plump. Serve with a 292 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING sauce made of two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, salt and pepper, and half a cup, each, of chicken stock and cream. MUSHROOM CROQUETTES. (ANNIE P. DOUGHTY, BOSTON) Clean and peel half a poimd of mushrooms, chop the stems and peelings and simmer twenty minutes in milk or white stock to cover; strain through a cheeseclofii and reserve the liquid. Make a sauce of one fourtS cup of butter, half a cup of flour, one cup, each, of the mushroom liquor and cream. Season with half a teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of paprika and a grating of nutmeg. Saute the caps cut small in a little butter until tender; add two hard- boiled eggs, rubbed through a sieve, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the sauce, and the yolks of two raw eggs. Mix thoroughly and spread on a dish to cool. Shape into croquettes, egg-and-bread- crumb and fry in deep fat. MUSHROOMS COOKED UNDER GLASS Saute one fourth pound of peeled mushroom caps (the Agaricus campestris is particularly good cooked this way) in one or two (as needed )tablespoonfuls of butter: season with salt and paprika, add a generous half cup of thin cream, cover and let simmer until reduced a little. Arrange the mushrooms on a round of bread in a mushroom dish, pour the liqmd over them, cover with a glass bell and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Send to the table without removing the glass, which confines the delicate flavor and aroma of the mushrooms. The cream may be omitted. MUSHROOMS AND tALVES' BRAINS A LA POULETTE Saute a clove of garlic, cut fine, in two tablespoonfuls of butter; add half a pound of mushrooms, peeled and broken in pieces, and one fourth cup of flour and saut6 until well browned. Then add one fourth teaspoonful, each, of mace and paprika, half a teaspoonful of salt and very gradually one cup and a half of stock and cook five or six minutes. Then add three calves' brains, cooked and cut in cubes, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. When the mixture is thoroughly heated, add the yolks of two eggs, beaten and diluted with a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Serve in patties, Swedish timbale cases, or in croustades of bread. BIRD'S NEST SALAD. (See page 325O a^ A t"?!^ ,_jL -*i ^ 7»3 ^ ■ ^j^tkumMS . Z^^ i^^ ^ r^ ■ ^ ?^ ?&| iL X iM »'^< S^/«E -,..-d ^^ ^^^ l^ta ■i r* ,,.,.„, J CHICKEN SALAD IN SALAD ROLLS. (See page 327) CRESS-/-—- -'^-■'-- '' CLAVARIA BAKED WITH CHEESE 293 MUSHROOMS AND MACARONI, ITALIAN STYLE Put one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of lemon juice into the blazer; add a dozen peeled mushrooms, broken into pieces, stir, then cook slowly, covered, five or six minutes. Then add one cup and one fourth of milk, and, when scalded, stir into it two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, creamed together. Let simmer ten minutes, then add one fourth pound of macaroni, cooked and blanched in the usual manner; heat over hot water and, just before serving, add one fourth a cup of grated cheese. BOLETI SAUTED WITH BACON. (ANNIE P. DOUGHTY) Cook thin slices of bacon in the oven — let the bacon stand in a double-broiler over a dripping pan — imtil nicely crisped. Peel and slice the mushroom caps, rejecting tough stems and long spongy pores; saute in bacon fat until tender, season with salt and pepper, drain on soft paper, sprinkle with lemon juice and serve hot with the bacon. COPRINUS COMATUS BAKED WITH OYSTERS (ANNIE P. DOUGHTY) Dress the prepared, lengthwise halves of fine, large Coprinus comatm on long, narrow, buttered strips of bread; season with salt and pepper, cover closely and bake fifteen minutes. Remove from the oven and on each half mushroom place one large oyster, seasoned with salt and paprika, and rolled in melted butter and then in cracker dust. Return to the oven to plump the oysters. Serve with hot cream or Bechamel sauce poured around. CLAVARIA BAKED WITH CHEESE. (ANNIE P. DOUGHTY) Pick over, trim and wash the mushrooms. Parboil in boiling salted water ten minutes. To two cups of cooked and drained Clavaria allow one cup of cream sauce, two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese (Swiss, Parmesan or old English) and half a cup of buttered crumbs. Butter a gratin dish, put in the Clavaria, then the sauce, and lastly the dieese with the buttered crumbs. Bake until the crumbs are browned. 294 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING TOMATOES STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS Wipe firm, ripe tomatoes; cut a thin slice from the stem end and with a teaspoon scoop out the seeds; sprinkle the insides with salt, invert, and let stand to drain half an hour. Cook together three minutes two tablespoonfuls of butter and two teaspoonfuls of minced onion; add one cup of fresh mushrooms, sliced (equal parts of Campesiris and puff balls are good), and saute slowly ten minutes; add one cup of stale bread crumbs from the centre of the loaf, season with salt and pepper, stir in one egg, slightly beaten, and fill the tomatoes with the mixture. Sprinkle buttered crumbs over the tops. Bake in a buttered baking dish half an hour. Chicken or veal, chopped fine, is a good addition to this forcemeat. RUSSUL/E A LA BORDELAISE Sprinkle a buttered gratin dish thickly with buttered bread crumbs. Spread with a deep layer of fresh Russula prepared for cooking, sprinkle with a little finely minced parsley, and season with salt, pepper and onion juice. Cover with buttered crumbs. Repeat the layers until the dish is filled. Bake half an hour, cov- ered; ten minutes before serving remove the cover to brown the cnmibs on top. Serve very hot. Olive oil may be substituted, for the butter, and a clove of garlic for the onion. CEPES A LA DUMAS Drain a generous cup of Cepes that have been soaking in water several hours, on a sieve, then wipe dry and cut in slices. Sautd a shallot, a clove of garlic, or a slice or two of onion, in a Uttle olive oil or butter; skim out the onion, whichever variety be used, and saute the mushrooms; add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and paprika and one cup of cream sauce. Sprinkle buttered scallop shells with grated bread crumbs and fill with the mushroom mixture; cover with buttered crumbs and bake until brown. Serve the shells on a folded napkin. MUSHROOMS WITH MACARONI AND KIDNEYS Boil and blanch half a pound of macaroni; return to the saucepan and add one fourth cup, each, of butter and grated cheese (pref- erably Parmesan). Toss together and dispose in a circle in the PIMENTOES STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS 295 serving-dish. Prepare a tomato sauce with a cup of thick (well reduced) tomato puree, butter, flour, seasoning, a tablespoonful of beef extract, and a few drops of kitchen bouquet. Remove the skin of a veal or lamb kidney, slice very fine and saute in butter; skim from the butter and saute in that half a dozen mushroom caps, peeled and cut in slices; drain these also and add with the kidney to the sauce; season as needed with salt and pepper and turn into the centre of the ring of macaroni. PIMENTOS STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS Line buttered dariole moulds with pimentos. Wipe carefully half a cup of mushrooms; peel the caps, cut in small pieces and chop the stems fine; saute in one tablespoonful of butter together with half a small onion, chopped fine; then add three fourths cup of white sauce, half a cup of fine bread crumbs, half a cup of cooked meat, fine-chopped, and the beaten yolk of one egg; season with a pimento, chopped fine, and salt to taste. Fill the lined moulds with the mixture. Bake in a pan of hot water. Serve turned from the moulds on rounds of toast. Pimentos are Spanish peppers, very mild and sweet in flavor; they are found in the market, canned. There are about a dozen in each can which costs eighteen cents at retail. CHAPTER X Corn Plants Used as Breakfast Food and Vegetables "Samp is the Indian com, beaten and boiled, and eaten hot or cold witL milke or butter, which are mercies beyond the native's plaine water, and is a dish exceeding wholesome for English bodies." — Roger Williams. AVERAGE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF FARINACEOUS FOOD (atwater) Water Per Cent. Barley, granulated 10.9 Farina 10.9 Commeal, granulated .....12.5 Hominy 11. 8 Oatireal 7.3 Rice 12.3 Rye meal 11. 4 Macaroni 10.3 Protein Per Cent. Fat Per Cent. Carbo- hydrates Per Cent. Ash Per Cent. Fuel val per lb. Calo- ries. 75 0.9 79.8 0.9 1.660 41 4 84.1 •S 1.660 9.2 I 9 7S-4 i.o I -655 8-3 6 79.0 •3 1.650 16. 1 7 2 67.S 1-9 1.860 8.0 3 79.0 • 4 1-630 13-6 2 71S i-S 1.66s 13-4 9 74- 1 1-3 1.66s BREAKFAST CEREALS Steam-cooked cereals can be eaten without much time being given to their preparation and in consequence their consumption is enormous. Many children are permitted, morning after morn- ing, to make a full breakfast of cereal. While a child with strong digestive powers may appear for a time to thrive upon such diet, it becomes a fruitful soiurce of dyspepsia. Many a dish of oatmeal, sugared and deluged with milk, causes acidity of the stomach or heartburn, which is wrongfully ascribed to other causes. The trouble lies not so much with the cereals themselves — though some are more prone to produce digestive disturbance than others — as it does with the manner of cooking and masticating. Cereals are largely composed of starch and tough woody fibre, hence long 296 SERVING CEREALS 297 and thorough cooking and thorough mastication are prime req- uisites, to insure the digestive action of the saliva. In cooking cereals, then, use enough water to swell the grains to their full extent bid avoid having the mush too soft, else it is liable to be swallowed without mastication. As starch during the process of digestion is changed into sugar, sugar as an accompaniment to cereals would be contraindicated. Indeed, cooked until quite stiff, they are most acceptably served with butter or cream as a vegetable with meat and in the place of potatoes. More time is required for the conversion of the starch in oatmeal into sugar than for the starch in barley, and thus barley would be considered the cereal for sedentary people. The large proportion of fat in oats and corn fits them more particularly for midwinter consumption. COOKING CEREALS Breakfast cereals may be boiled or dry-steamed, i.e., cooked in a double-boiler; the latter method requires longer time in cooking, but it is usually preferred, as less attention is demanded. A sup- ply of water needs always be kept in the boiler. A general rule for cooking cereals is as follows: add a teaspoonful of salt to a quart of water boiling directly over the fire; into this stir about a cup of the cereal and, when the mixture boils, after all the cereal has been added, set over hot water and cook, without stirring, the requisite time. Whole grains of oatmeal require in cooking about six hours, hominy four hours, samp eight or more, cracked wheat two hours, Indian meal three to six hours, and rice about forty minutes. In cooking cereals from packages it is safe to double the time given in the directions on the packages. SERVING CEREALS The various cereals have distinctive yet delicate flavors of their own that are usually enjoyed, but occasionally, for the sake oi variety, fruit flavors may be added. Sweet fruits would be indi- cated. Raisins should be added with the salt to the water in which the cereal is to be cooked. After removing the seeds from dates cut into quarters and stir into the cooked cereal; cover and return to the range long enough to heat the fruit thoroughly. Prunes and figs should be stewed previously until tender, then served hot or cold with the cereal. Bananas may be sliced without cooking, and then served with the hot cereal; but even these will be found to be more agreeable, if_they be cooked. 298 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BALTIMORE SAMP WITH CREAM SAUCE Baltimore samp is made of white com. It is very much coarser than grits or fine hominy. Cover the samp with boiling water, let boil five or six minutes, then drain and rinse. Cover again with boiling water, and let cook on the back of the range all day, adding boiling water as needed, and shaking the dish occasionally to prevent scorching* When nearly cooked, add a teaspoonful of salt for each quart of samp. To serve as a vegetable, reheat a cup of the samp in a cup of hot white sauce made of cream or rich milk. Add also a scant tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley or two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. CORNMEAL RELISH Stir one cup of commeal mixed with one cup of milk into two cups and a half of boiling water, to which a teaspoonful of salt has been added; stir constantly imtil the mush boils, then, occasionally, for half an hour or longer. Add an egg, beaten until white and yolk are well mixed, a tablespoonful of butter and one fourth cup (or more) of grated cheese. Pour into a shallow pan to cool. When cold cut into squares or rounds the size of a silver dollar. Arrange these in a baking dish that can be sent to the table, in the form of -a pyramid, with spaces between. Sprinkle with bits of butter and grated cheese. Set in the oven to reheat the mush and melt the cheese. Serve very hot. Paprika, or cayenne, may be added. The quantity of liquid needed in making the mush will vary. The average is four cups of liquid to one of meal. The dry meal may be shaken slowly with one hand and stirred with the otier into the boiling water. After cooking half an hour directly over the fire, the mush may be cooked over hot water an hour or more to advan- tage. QNOCCHI AU QRATIN 6 ounces (i cup) of hominy or White sauce. Indian meal. Grated cheese. 4 cups of milk. | cup of cracker crumbs, if tablespoonfuls of butter. 3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. I teaspoonful of salt. Add the salt and butter to the boiling milk and sprinkle in the hominy or meal; stir and cook imtil the mixture becomes a stif paste. With two teaspoons shape the mixture into quenelles, and I POLENTA 300 poach these in gently boiling stock or water. Drain and arrange a layer on a buttered gratin dish, mask with white sauce and sprinkle with grated cheese; continue the layers tmtil the materials are used, then cover with the crumbs mixed with the melted butter. Bake in a very hot oven about ten minutes. This dish is particu- larly good, if the quenelles be poached in chicken liquor, and the sauce afterward made with that liquor. HOMINY BALLS Shape a quart of boiled hominy into balls, roll in sifted crumbs, then dip in an egg, beaten and diluted with two tablespoonfuls of cold water, and again in crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Drain on soft paper. Serve as a vegetable, or with maple syrup as a dessert ; or add half a cup or more of grated cheese and serve as an entre6. OMELET WITH WHEAT-QERM MEAL, WHEATLET, CREAM OF WHEAT, ETC. Into one cup and a fourth of boiling water, to which one fourth teaspoonful of salt has been added, stir two tablespoonfuls of wheat-germ meal. Stir and cook over the fire three or four min- utes, then cook over hot water untU ready to use. Beat five eggs, until a spoonful of the mixture can be lifted; add a few grains of pepper and salt, and beat the eggs into the cooked meal. Turn into a hot frying-pan, buttered, and cook as a French omelet. Or beat the whites and yolks separately; then beat the yolks into the meal, fold in the whites and cook as a puffy omelet. POLENTA 2 cups of boiling water. t teaspoonful of salt. 1 cup of yellow com flour. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 2 cups of cold water. 4 tablespoonfuls of grated cheese Mix the com flour with the cold water and stir into the boiling water, to which the salt has been added: stir constantly until the mixture boils, then, occasionally, for at least half an hour. When about half cooked add the butter and cheese. Serve hot (with meat) with the sauce given below, or as "commeal relish"; or when cold cut in squares, egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in deep fat. 30O PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING SAUCE FOR POLENTA, RICE OF MACARONI Saute half a dozen mushrooms broken in pieces (if dried mush- rooms be used, let soak some hours in cold water), an onion and a clove of garlic, cut fine, in half a cup of butter until a golden brown, then add half a cup of water and two teaspoonfuls of beef extract (or use strong beef stock instead of the water and extract), and let simmer five minutes. Strain before serving. RICE On accoimt of the small percentage of woody fibre, or cellulose, found in connection with the starch, rice may be classed as an easily digested food. There are many varieties of rice; some contain little else than starch and water, while others contain in addition a small percentage of gluten. The statement is often made that some Eastern people live almost exclusively on rice, but facts do not verify these statements. The Chinese and Japanese simply use rice as we use bread and potatoes. Combined witii eggs, cheese, milk or meat juices rice may be made a representative food, but rice alone will not sustain life continuously. COOKING RICE There are several ways of cooking rice, each of which has points of merit, at least, for those who advocate the method. As a rule rice-growing people prefer the rice grains less tender than do these of Northern climes, just as the Italians prefer macaroni in a state which by many would be called an imderdone condition. But soft or not, all wish rice dry. The quantity of liquid that the grain will absorb depends upon the variety of the rice, the season in which it was grown, the time it has been kept, and the liquid used. These things affect, also, the time of cooking. Rice will absorb in cooking from two and a half to four times its bulk of liquid. When three cups of water would suffice, three and a half or four cups of milk or tomato puree are required. Rice needs to be thoroughly cleansed before cooking. It may be washed in several waters, being rubbed, meanwhile, between the hands, but the most satisfactory way is to blanch rice. Put the rice over a hot fire in a large saucepan of cold water and stir, oc- casionally, while it is heating; let boil five minutes, then drain on a sieve and pass cold water from the faucet through it. Thp rice w en M tn w O & o - M u CABBAGE SALAD No. 2. (See page 322.) CELERY AND ORANGE SALAD. (See pages 32 and 329.) ENDIVE SALAD. (See page 321-) SAVORY RICE 301 is now beautifully white and clean and the grains do not adhere to each other. To cook, return to the fire, covered with the hot liquid, whatever this be, in which it is to be cooked, let cook rapidly until nearly all the liquid is absorbed, then finish cooking over hot water. If the liquid be milk, cook from the first, after blanching, in the double-boiler. BOILED RICE (JAPANESE COOK) Wash the rice thoroughly; cook, in four times as much water, directly over the fire. Use a tightly covered saucepan, that the moisture or steam may be absorbed by the rice. Have the fire less brisk at the last of the cooking than at first. PLAIN BOILED RICE Cover the blanched rice with a relatively large quantity of salted boiling water and let cook rapidly in an uncovered saucepan until the grains are tender; drain ofi the water, cover the saucepan with a cloth and let stand on the back of the range to dry. Serve in a hot dish. RISOTTO 1 cup of rice. li teaspoonful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Paprika. § an onion. 2 to 3 cups of stock or water. I cup of tomato pulp. I cup of grated cheese. Put the rice over the fire with plenty of cold water, and let boil five minutes, then drain and rinse. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the onion and rice, let cook tmtil the butter is absorbed, then add the tomato pulp, salt, paprika, and the liquid; let cook until the rice is tender and the liquid absorbed, then stir in the cheese carefully. Take out the onion. Use a fork and stir or lift the rice carefully, to avoid breaking the grains. Serve very hot. SAVORY RICE Set a cup of rice over the fire in three pints of cold water, let come quicldy to the boiling point, and boil five minutes, then dnio through a colander, rinsing with cold water. Return to the fire with a quart of boiling water, one teaspoonful of salt, and the juice of half a lemon, shake the pan, occasionally, >«t the rice bum, and 302 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING add a little more water if necessary, or set on an asbestos mat, or into a pan of water. When tender stir in very carefully one fourth cup of butter creamed with a tablespoonfiil of curry powder. Serve with meat, particularly chicken or veal. TURKISH PILAF Set one cup and a half of stock, with one cup of stewed and strained tomato, over the fire. When boiling add one cup of well- washed or blanched rice and half a teaspoonful of salt; stir lightly with a fork, occasionally, until the liquor is absorbed. Then add half a cup of butter and cook over hot water until tender; remove, cover and stir with a fork before serving. RICE WITH BACON Parboil three foiulhs cup of rice in boUing water five minutes and drain on a sieve. Pour boiling water over one fourth pound of bacon, then drain, cut into inch pieces and saut6 to a light yellow color. Add the rice, three cups of stock or water, and a dash of pepper; let simmer until tender, then add a cup of well-reduced to- mato puree (tomatoes passed through a sieve and simmered until thick), mix thoroughly, turn in a moimd on a dish, and anange curls of fried bacon on the sides of the moimd. SAVORY RICE CROQUETTES J cup of rice. A piece of red pepper. 1 cup of stock. I egg. 2 cups of tomatoes. | cup of grated cheese. A slice of onion. i tablespoonful of butter. A sprig of parsley. } teaspoonful of paprika. 2 cloves. j teaspoonful of salt. Cover the rice with cold water and bring quickly to the boiling point; let boil five minutes, then drain, rinse in cold water and drain again. Cook the tomatoes with the Onion, parsley, cloves, and red pepper fifteen minutes and pass through a sieve; add to the rice with the stock, paprika and salt and cook over hot water, imtil the rice is tender and the liquid absorbed, lien add the cheese, butter, and beaten egg. Spread on a dish to cool (do not let it become too cold), then diape and finish as any croquettes. HOT RICE PREPARATION 303 PLAIN RICE CROQUETTES i cup of rice. I teaspoonful of salt. r cup of boiling water. Yolks of 2 eggs or i whole egg. I cup of hot milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Blanch the rice as above, cook in a double-boiler with the water, nulk, and salt, until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed; stir in the beaten eggs and the butter; let cool and finish as usual. RICE, MILANAISE FASHION Put two tablespoons of butter into a stewpan, and when hot cook in it, without browning, a slice of onion, chopped; then add half a cup of rice, thoroughly washed, and about a quart of stock (white) or hot water Cook until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed; then add two tablespoonfuls of grated cheese and salt, if needed. Stir gently with fork, turn into a serving dish, and sprinkle the top with a little more of the grated cheese. Serve as a v^etable, or as a luncheon dish, either with or without a brown sauce RICE, WITH PARSLEY OR CHIVES Cook half a cup of blanched rice in boiling salted water until tender (an aluminoid dish will be found usefS for this purpose) ; add two tablespoonfuls of butter and one teaspoonfid of fine- chopped parsley or chives; mix gently so as to avoid breaking the grains, ^^rve as a vegetable. RICE, CREOLE STYLE Chop fine a white onion and two green peppers, sautd with half a cup of raw ham, shredded rather fine, in one fourth cup of butter; cook about ten minutes, then add a cup of blanched rice and three cups of beef broth, simmer twenty minutes, then add four tomatoes, peeled and cut in slices, and one teaspoonful of salt. Cover and finish cooking in the oven or in a double-boiler. HOT RICE PREPARATION TO SERVE WITH COMPOTES OF FRUIT Blanch one cup of rice; add salt and one quart of milk or hot water and cook until the liquid is absorbed and the rice is tender, 304 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING adding more liquid, if needed. Add one fourth cup of butter, one fourth cup of sugar, and, if desired, the grated rind and juice of half a lemon or one teaspoonful of vanilla extract; mix thoroughly without breaking the kernels of rice. Butter a round basin or a border mould and press the rice into this. Set into the oven for ten minutes, then turn on to a serving dish. RICE FOR SWEET CROQUETTES Cook a cup of rice blanched and salted in three cups of milk until tender and dry; add three egg yolks, one fourth cup, each, of butter, sugar, whipped cream, and candied orange peel shredded fine. When cool form into peach shapes, egg-and-bread- crumb, and fry in deep fat. Insert angelica for stalks. Serve with cold fruit syrup or with fresh fruit dressed with sugar. MACARONI The Italians axe most skilful in preparing appetizing and eco- nomical dishes. The nutritive foodstiiS whidi often forms the foundation of these is macaroni, made from a wheat flour rich in gluten. At the Italian stores in large dties many quaint styles of macaroni may be found. Some are saffron tinted; some for soups are shaped like the letters of the alphabet, others are in threads, and still others are in plain bands or ribbons and bands with a fluted edge. All the different varieties are cooked alike, except that some require longer cooking than others. In Italy the common name for all varieties is "pasta," macaroni being the name for the conomon stick pasta with a hole through it. Spaghetti is usually cooked imbroken; the ends of the long slender sticks of paste are put into boiling water, and then as the heat and moisture soften the sticks they axe coiled in the 6aucq>aji. When tender and blanched the cooking and dresdng are the same ae for macaroni. Macaroni proper is bxaken into slwrt piecee of luiiform length and coc&ed in rapidly boilingsalted water until tender, then drained and rinsed in odd wata:. Thus treated the pieces do not adhere, one to another, nor is the didi at all mushy. MACARONI MILANESI Put one fourth cup of butter, or drippings, into the frying-pan and when melted saut6 in it an onion, sliced thin, a stalk of celery, MOULDED MACARONI AND CHEESE 305 cut into cubes, and a sprig of parsley; stir, to keep from burning, and when of a golden brown add a can of tomato, season with salt and pepper and let simmer a:bout half an hour, or until the watery juice is evaporated. Meanwhile cook half a package of macaroni in boiling salted water; let boil about twenty minutes or until tender but in perfect shape, drain and rinse in cold water, then set in a hot place. Press the tomato sauce through a sieve fine enough to keep back the seeds, but coarse enough to let the pulp pass through (it should be of the consistency of thick cream). Dust a hot platter with Parmesan cheese, cover with macaroni, pour over sauce, add grated cheese, then more macaroni sauce and cheese until all is used. Then with a spoon and fork gently tiun the macaroni over and over until it is thoroughly mixed with the sauce; add a generous sprinkling of cheese t6 the top and serve. Mix qulcily that lie macaroni may be served hot. MACARONI A LA ITALIENNE i pound of macaroni. I teaspoonful of paprika. 2 tablespoonftils of butter. J cup of brown stock. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. i cup of tomato pulp, i teaspoonful of salt. well reduced. I to J cup of grated cheese. Make a sauce of the butter, flour, seasoning, stock, and tomato pulp. The tomato pulp should be quite thick from long cooking. Add the macaroni, cooked until tender, in boiling salted water, rinsed and drained. Reheat in double boiler, adding the cheese meanwhile. Serve when the cheese is melted and the whole is very hot. MOULDED MACARONI AND CHEESE Cook three fourths cup of macaroni, broken in small pieces, in rapidly boiling salted water half an hour. Drain, then add a cup of milk, and cook until the milk is absorbed; then stir into one cup of white sauce (use three tablespoonfuls of flour in making the sauce), add two tablespoonfuls or more of grated cheese, and, when cooled a little, two eggs beaten light. Turn into a buttered border mould, sprinkled with bread crumbs, and poach, standing in a pan of hot water, about twenty-five minutes. Turn from lie mould, and fill the centre with tomatoes stewed with mushrooms. 306 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING TOMATOES WITH MACARONI AND CHEESE Cook half a pound of macaroni in rapidly boiling salted water until tender. Scald one pint of cream over hot water, add half a pound of cheese, cut in Uiin shavings, and stir tmtil the cheese is melted; add a dash of salt and papnka. Have ready, in a serving dish, five or six baked tomatoes (skin and core removed before baking); dispose the macaroni in a wreath around the tomatoes, pour Uie cheese mixture over the whole, and serve very hot. MACARONI AU GRATIN Mix three fourths cup of macaroni, that has been cooked as usual, with a cup of cream or tomato sauce; add from one fourth to half a cup of grated cheese, turn into an au gratin dish, cover with buttered cracker crumbs and set into a hot oven to brown the crumbs. BAKED MACARONI AND CHEESE Put cooked macaroni and grated cheese into an au gratin dish in alternate layers, cover with milk and let cook until the cheese is melted and the milk is partly absorbed. One or two beaten eggs may be added with the milk and the whole baked slowly imtil the egg is set. MACARONI AND CHEESE, GARNISH OP WELSH RABBIT gaxnish: } pound of macaroni. i pound of cheese. i pound of cheese. } cup of cream. i pound of butter. The yolk of i egg. Salt and paprika. Salt and paprika. Cook the macaroni as usual, grate the cheese and melt the butter. Put the macaroni, cheese and butter in layers in a baking dish that will stand the heat of the oven; sprinkle each layer witti salt and pepper, and set the dish into the oven. Melt the second quarter pound of cheese, add the salt and pepper, and, very gradually, the yolk of the egg, beaten and diluted with the cream; stir constantly while the cheese is melting and until the mixture is smooth. Spread upon diamond-shaped pieces of bread toasted upon one side, plac- ing the rabbit upon the untoasted side. Dispose these on the top of the macaroni and serve at once. CHAPTER XI Chafing Dish Cookery and Services "Let him then be boiled gently over a chafing dish with wood coles." — IzAAK Waltoh. "The meats were kept warm by chafing dishes." — Prescott, "Conquest of Mexico." The origin of the chafing dish dates back to the period of un- xrritten history. Its use was common at least two thousand years ago. Like the brazier, chafing dishes were once made of bronze and rested on the floor. As occasion demanded they were carried from room to room by means of handles on the sides. The authepsa of the Greeks and Romans — a saucepan of Corinthian brass — was also a species of chafing dish, having several features of the modem chafing dish. All of these appliances were a combination oi saucepan and heat generator, though the authepsa was probably used simply to heat water or to keep it hot. Formerly the heat was supplied by live wood coals or the flame of burning oil. The ancient dishes were intended for gentle cooking or simmering, and for keeping hot food that had been cooked by other means. This is the rightful province of the modem chafing dish and all other cooking, save that of a gentle simmering, should be left for some more appropriate utensil. This degr^ of heat, that of simmering, is well adapted to the cooking of eggs, oysters, -and cheese, and the reheating of cooked materials in a sauce, the sauce having been first made in the blazer of the chafing dish. l^e blazer, a hot-water pan and a lamp are the indispensable parts of the chafing dish — the hot-water pan is sometimes, though erroneously, omitted. A tray upon which the dish may rest, while the lamp is lighted, insiu-es the tablecloth against fire from below. Light wooden spoons, shaped from French apple tree or olive wood, and highly polished, are light and noiseless, and thus suitable for dining-room cookery. The bowls of such spoons being very small, silver forks and spoons, designed especially for 307 3o8 PRACTICAL COOKlIfG AND SERVING serving, are called into requisition when the cooking has been completed. Often young people, whose experience in cooking is limited, inquire, How are we to know when to use the hot-water pan? To the amateur cook, who is desirous of making a success of chafing- dish cookery, we would suggest the perusal of Chapter II. They will then readily understand that if roux is to be made for the thickening of a sauce, the blazer should be set directly over the flame, in order to secure the strong heat necessary to cook starch. Also that, if eggs are to be added to a mixture, or if milk is to be heated or cheese melted, the hot-water pan should be in place, to temper the heat ever inimical to the digestibility of nitrogeneous substances. FUEL When alcohol is to be used in the lamp of the chafing dish the best is none to good and, in the end, is the cheapest. With the ordinary chafing-dish lamp, in which the alcohol is burned in a cup filled with asbestos stone, covered with a wire netting, the alcohol is turned into the lamp through a central opening. As soon as the lamp is filled, the cap covering this open- ing should be fitted in place and kept in place until the alcohol is consumed, otherwise it is impossible to control the flame. The filler is a desirable utensil, when the alcohol needs be renewed. The lamp usually holds about one fourth cup; this, if of good quality, will bum about half an hour. A similar fuel in solid form is now prepared for this use. Any make of chafing dish may be heated with gas or electricity, if it be connected with the supply. A gas burner or an electric stove may be fitted inside the frame of the chafing dish, then with rubber tubing for gas, or flexible cord for electricity, the frame may be connected with the supply that is used for lighting the room. At stores, where gas appliances are on sale, may be found portable frames fitted with gas burners and with rubber tubing attached, upon which the hot-water pan or blazer is set for cooking. Unless gas or electricity be the fuel, chafing-dish cookery con- simies much time and is not adapted to general use; but the sick room, the Simday night tea, and the means for diversion on a stormy day, to say nothing of the little "snack" after "the play", will afford abimdant opportunities in which to test the virtues of many a dish that, eaten at its best, should be served the instant it is perfectly cooked, REGARDING "RABBITS" 309 As the chafing dish stands very high above the ordinary dining- room table, the first requisite to ease in cooking is a chair vrith a rather high seat. Also a hassock beneath the table for the feet is convenient for her who keeps watch over the contents of the blazer. As this meal is often prepared and served without the assistance of a maid, everything should be in readiness beforehand; and, when space allows, Uie greater part of the food for the meal may be in place while the cooking is going on. A tray holding the cups, spoons, etc., needed in cooking is a convenience on the dining table, but when this necessitates a crowded table, a small table at the left of the "cook" maybe drawn upon for this purpose. If this be upon casters, it may be wheeled aside after the hot course from the chafing-dish has been disposed of, and thus is made a comparatively easy solution of the problem of soiled dishes on the table. Hors d'cpuvres, substantial or otherwise, according to the occasion, form a fitting first course of the chafing-dish meal and take up the time while the cooking is going on. REQARDINQ RABBITS Any of the various forms of rabbit or rarebit, the bright and particular gem of the cook's repertoire for the chafing dish, may be made successfully, coming out smooth and delectable, provided only they be stirred constantly and cooked mthotU boiling. An expert does not require the hot-water pan, imtil the cooking is completed and serving is in order; because ^e lifts the blazer from the fiame oft and again whenever her practised eye discerns that boiling is imminent at any point. The amateur needs to use the hot-water pan from start to finish. Every one who essays a rabbit knows that stirring, indefatigable and untiring, is also a sine qua non of the perfect dish. American factory cheese gives the foundation for these tidbits; the softer it is, the more readily will it melt upon the application of heat, a condition devoutly looked forward to by the novice. Any of the fancy brands of potted cheese may be added in small quantities for a change of flavor The mild paprika is the favorite pepper, and soda is added to replace the salts lost in the whey during the cheese-making process. Recipes for " rabbits " are given under the chapter on Cheese. For variation, try spreading the toast with anchovy paste, or add to the rabbit just before serving a few anchovy fillets, picked into small pieces. 3IO PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING OYSTERS In purchasing oysters for chafing dish, as for all cookery, if possible, see them taken from the shells. Oysters, in bulk, are usually treated with "preservatives"; and those who have looked into the subject, even casually, know that we are being "preserved to death" by eating veritably embalmed and preserved food products. For all sorts of stews, creamed and curried dishes, let the oysters, freed from shell and washed, stand in a pitcher from which they may be readily turned into the blazer. OYSTERS WITH CREAM li cups of cream. The yolks of two eggs. 2 dozen oysters (well drained). Salt and pepper. Scald a cup of cream in the blazer over hot water, and add the oysters, washed and freed from bits of shell; when the oysters begin to look plump and the edges frill, add the yolks, beaten and diluted with one fourth cup of cream, with about half a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper. Serve on buttered toast. OYSTER STEW i} cups of rich milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. i dozen oysters. Salt and pepper. i cup of cracker crumbs Scald the milk over hot water and add the oysters. When they look plump, add the crumbs, butter, and seasoning. Serve with crackers. OYSTER STEW NO. 2 Make a sauce in the blazer of two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour and a cup of rich milk; if the flavor be wished, sauti a slice of onion in the butter without letting either the butter or onion take color; add the oyster liquor, previously strained, and when again hot add the oysters. Season and serve as soon as the oysters look plvmip. CREAMED DISHES Eggs, oysters, lobsters, crabs, shrimps, fish, chicken or lamb, tongue, etc., peas, asparagus tips, etc., are the ingredients usually LOBSTER, CREOLE STYLES 311 selected for these dishes. Make a white sauce, using stock, milk or cream, or a part of each as the liquid; season with a few drops of onion juice, chopped parsley, celery salt, paprika or curry powder, and add the cooked article; oysters need be parboiled and drained before being added to the sauce or the large quantity of liquid in them will change the dish to a stew. Fish is improved for a creamed dish by standing in a marinade (lemon and onion juice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper) some hours before reheating in the chafing dish. SHAD ROE CREAMED AND CURRIED Cook the roe in salted, acidulated water; let the water sirmner very gently, to avoid breaking the outside skin of the roe. Cut the roe in scallops or cubes, marinate with lemon and onion juice, salt and pepper, cover and let stand some hours. When ready to serve prepare a white sauce in the blazer, add the roe and let stand over hot water to reheat. Sweetbread and calf's brains are par- ticularly good prepared in the same way. A tablespoon! ul of curry powder added with the flour gives a diange from the usual white sauce. HALIBUT AND LOBSTER A LA HOLLANDAISE I pound of raw halibut. i cup of butter. I two-pound lobster. The yolks of four eggs. Salt and paprika. i cup of hot water. The juice of half a lemon. Cut the fish in inch cubes and cook until tender in salted acid- ulated water, or stock made from the trimmings of the fish and the body bones of the lobster with a few bits of vegetable; drain the fish and when cold add to it the flesh of the lobster, cut into cubes, a dash of salt and paprika, and the juice of half a lemon; set aside until ready to use. Put into the blazer, over hot water, the butter, beaten to a cream, and beat into this, one at a time, the yolks of four eggs, then gradually one cup of hot water; when all the water has been added and the sauce is smooth and thick, stir in the fish and lobster with the lemon juice. Serve as soon as the mixture is hot. LOBSTER, CREOLE STYLE I sweet green pepper, seeded. i tablespoonful of onion juice. I tomato, peeled and seeded. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. t silice of onion or if cups of chicken broth- 3 two-pound lobsters, 312 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Chop fioe the pepper, tomato and onion and cook in the buttv until softened; add the broth, let simmer five minutes, then add the lobster meat, cut in small pieces, and salt if needed. Serve very hot. SCRAMBLED EQQS WITH ANCHOVIES OR SARDINES Drain the anchovies or sardines, to free them from the oil of the can, then remove skin or scales and bones and pick the fillets into small pieces. If salted anchovies be used, soak in milk or water six or more hours. Beat five eggs slightly; add salt and pep- per, as desired, and five tablespoonfuls of water, milk or cream. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer directly over the flame and put in the pieces of fish (there should be half a cup more or less, as taste approves), shake the blazer a moment, then turn in the egg mixture and cook as scrambled eggs. EQQS SCRAMBLED WITH CHEESE Beat five eggs tmtil a full spoonful of egg can be taken vp', add a few grains, each, of salt and pepper, five tablespoonfuls, each, of cream or water, and grated cheese, turn into a hot blazer, oiled with butter, and cook and stir until the mixture is lightly set, then serve at once. SCRAMBLED EQQS WITH TOMATOES AND QREEN PEPPER Remove the seeds and veins from a green pepper and cut it in shreds. Scald five tomatoes, remove the skins, and cut in quarters ; cook the pepper and tomatoes in two tablespoonfuls of butter until the liquid is reduced, then season with salt and keep hot. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in a second blazer, pour in six eggs, beaten without separating, until a fuU spoctoful can be taken up, and season with ^t. Stir and cook until the eggs become tMoc and creamy; add, meanwhile, two tablespoonfuls of butter in pieces. Serve the two dishes together. SWEETBREADS A LA NEWBURQ Heat one cup of cream in the blazer over hot water. Add on« cup and a half of sweetbreads, parboiled, cooled, and cut in cubes. B^t the yolks of three eggs, add a scant half teaspoonful of salt GURRY OF MACARONI 313 and a few grains of cayenne, dilute, with a little of the hot cream, and stir into the mixture. Stir until thickened slightly Add half a cup of sherry -wine, then serve at once. Half a cup of cooked mushrooms is an improvement to the disk. Calf's brains may be substituted for a part or all of the sweetbread. Oysters, fish, chicken, etc., may be prepared in the same manner. CRABS A LA CREOLE i cup of butter. | cup of white stock. a tablespoonfuls of sweet i cup of crab meat or Spanish pepper, chopped. 4 soft shell crabs, cut in halves. 2 tablespoonfuls of onion, chopped. } cup of sliced mushrooms. I cup of tomato pur£e. Salt as needed. Melt the butter; cook in it the pepper, onion, and mushrooms five minutes, then add the stock and tomato pur^e; let boil, then add the crab meat, cover and let simmer over hot water ten minutes. CREAMED CHICKEN, POTATOES AND PEPPERS Saute half a green pepper, chopped fine, in three tablespoonfuls of butter five or six minutes. Add three tablespoonfuls of flour and half a teaspoonful of salt. When frothy, add gradually a cup of chicken stock and half a cup of cream, stir until smooth and at the boiling point, then set over hot water and heat in the sauce one cup of chicken, cut in cubes, and half a cup of cold cooked potatoes, also cut in cubes. Turnip, carrot, peas, or asparagus tips may be substituted for the potato. CURRY OF MACARONI Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; cook in it two slices of onion until the onion becomes of a pale straw color, then add two table- spoonfuls of floiur, one tablespoonful of curry powder, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. When blended with the butter, add gradually one cup of milk, and stir until smooth and boiling. Then strain over one cup of macaroni, cooked until tender in boiling salted water, and then drained and rinsed in cold water. Reheat and serve. Two tablespoonfuls of tomato pulp may be added, if desired. 314 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING ASPARAGUS X LA INDIENNB Make a curry sauce as above, and beat into it a cup of cooked asparagus tips (fresh cooked or canned). Serve with sippets of toast, or with finger-length bits of bread, sautdd in the blazer. HOT HAM SANDWICHES Spread slices of bread, cut for sandwiches, with chopped ham, seasoned with a little mustard and press the slices together in pairs. Beat an egg, add half a cup of rich milk and soak file sandwiches in the mixture a few moments. Heat a tablespoonful or more of butter in the blazer and in it brown the sandwiches, first on one side and then on the other. Drain on soft paper and serve at once. MUTTON RECHAUFF6 To a pint of thin slices of cold mutton, neatly trimmed, add the juice of half a lemon, a teaspooUful of onion juice, a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley, half a cup of cold stock (that in which the mutton was cooked will do), and a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce ; let the meat stand two or three hours. Make in the blazer a cup and a half of rather thick sauce ; add the meat and such liquid as has not been absorbed, salt and pepper, and a teaspoonful of capers or fine-chopped cucumber pickles. Let stand over hot water imtil very hot. Serve on toast, or with mashed potato cakes, saut6d in a second blazer. SALMI OF DUCK WITH QREEN PEAS Saut6 three or four slices of bacon, cut in small squares, with a tablespoonful of fine-chopped young onions; when delicately colored, add one fourth cup of nut-brown flour, then, gradually, one cup and a half of stock, made from the trimmings of the duck, and a sprig or two of mint; let simmer five or six minutes, then add a cup of meat, cut from cold roast duck, and a cup of cooked green peas. Let heat over hot water, season with salt and pepper, remove the mint and serve. CURRY OF DUCK Saut6 two or three thick slices of onioa in one fotirth cup of butter; add one fourth cup of flour, and one tablespoonful of curry CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE 315 powder; when well blended add, gradually, two cups of stock made from the trimmings of the duck with a little beef or fowl, salt and pepper, half an apple, grated, and the juice of an orange; let simmer five minutes; then remove the onion and add two cups of tender duck meat, cut in thin slices; let stand over hot water xmtil thor- oughly heated. This dish, as all curries, is at its best when re- heated. Prepare as above, and if the duck is not tender, let the slices simmer in the sauce until they are tender, then set aside until the time of serving and reheat over hot water. ORANGE OMELET. (PAULINE DOUGHTY) 5 eggs. 5 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. 5 tablespoonfuls of orange jmce. A few grains of salt. The grated rind of one orange. Sliced oranges. Beat the yolks of the eggs until lemon colored and thick; add the orange rind and juice and the sugar; fold in the whites, beaten very light, with the salt. Oil the chafing dish with one tablespoonful of butter, turn in the mixture, and cook over hot water fifteen or twenty minutes. Brown slightly by holding the blazer directly over the flame. Extinguish the lamp and serve, without folding, from the blazer with a dressing of sliced oranges and powdered sugar. DEVILLED CHESTNUTS Roast the chestnuts, after removing a small piece of shell, until tender; remove the shells and inner skin. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the blazer and when hot saute in this a cup of the roasted chestnuts; sprinkle with salt and paprika. Serve with the cheese and salad course, or with a rabbit. CHOCOLATE S0UFFL6 3 ounces of unsweetened chocolate, j teaspoonful of vaniUa extract, i cup of granulated sugar. 2 eggs. 4 tablespoonfuls of hot water. | cup of cicam. i teaspoonful of salt. i cup of milk. i teaspoonful of cinnamon. Melt the chocolate over hot water, then add the sugar and hot water and cook directly over the flames until smooth and glossy. Beat the yolk of the eggs, dilute with a tablespoonful of the cream, 3i6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING add the rest of the cream and the milk to the chocolate mixture aad stir until it boils. Set the blazer into the hot-water pan, add the yolks and, when blended with the hot mixture and thickened slightly, fold in the stiff beaten whites of the eggs and cook over the hot water ten minutes or tmtU the whites of the eggs are set and the mixture is spongy. Serve with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla before whipping. QRAPE-JUICE SPONQB Scald one pint of grape juice in the blazer, stir in one fourth cup of any quick-cooking tapioca, mixed with half a cup of sugar, then set the blazer over hot water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tapioca is transparent; then add the juice of half a lemon and a few grains of salt and fold in the stiff-beaten whites of two eggs. Serve with cream and sugar. CHAPTER XII Salads, Sandwiches and Hors d'CEuvres SALADS AND SALAD MAKING "An olive, capers, or some better salad." — Ben Jonson. "Our Garrick's a salad, for in him we see Oil, vinegar, sugar and saltness agreel" — Goldsmiih. Certain uncooked plants, fruits, and nuts, also cooked vege- tables and meats, seasoned with condiments and dressed with oil, cream or butter slightly acidulated, constitute what is known as salads. Long ago in the time of Virgil many ingredients were brayed to- gether in a mortar to produce some delectable dish, but without doubt even then as now the simpler the salad the better it was. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." The list of plants eaten tmcooked as salads by people in general is small, and it has scarcely been added to since the days of an- tiquity. Lettuce, known since the earliest times, and cultivated in England for more than two hundred years, has always been the favorite salad plant, though radishes were once served on plates of gold — emperors vying with one another to secure the greatest degree of transparency in the vegetable. Black radishes, cul- tivated in the times of the Romans, are no longer in great demand. The varietiesof lettuce are numerous, but all belong to two principal groups: the cabbage lettuce, named from similarity in growth to the vegetable whose name it bears, and the cos lettuce, the long, firm leaves of which form a long, erect head. Romaine belongs to this class. Celery, cucmnbers and cabbage divide the honor of a second position, then follow watercress, endive, escarole, pepper- grass, dandelion, purslane, and sorrel. Hothouse cucumbers and lettuce are now largely grown by the aid of electric lights. Dan- delion, cultivated in rich soil, is broad-leaved (comparatively), tender and easily made crisp. It is usually blanched for use in 317 3X8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING salads. When the leaves first appear, the plant is covered with a saucer or flower pot, then, when the leaves are of sufficient size, they are beautifufly white. When cleaned, crisped, dried, and dressed with French dressing the dandelion makes a most healthful salad. Purslane and sorrel are used in combination with other plants and obviate the use of acid in the dressing. There are but few cooked vegetables, if there be any, that cannot, either in com- bination or singly, be served as salads; of all it may be said, as Gerarde said of asparagus, "The first sprouts and tender shoots be oftentimes sodden in flesh broth and eaten boiled in faire water, and seasoned with oil, vinegar, and pepper, they are served up as a salad." Olive oil, the dressing par excellence of a salad, is a form of fat that, eaten in moderation, agrees with almost every one; its use gives "strength and suppleness." It lubricates the alimentary tract and acts as a germicide. Its use is strongly advocated in health as well as in all wasting disease. The first requisite in salad plants is crisp tenderness. Tenderness is secured by quick growth in rich soil with plenty of moisture and suitable light: we say suitable, as many are made tender as well as white by blanching or growing away from the light. Crispness is usually secured by proper care in the kitchen. After thorough cleaning, let stand about half an hour in very cold water, to which a Uttle lemon juice or vinegar has been added. Gather green vegetables from the garden in the early morning or after sunset, keep in a cool place, closely wrapped in paper or in a dosed vessel (a tin pail is a con- venient utensil), to exclude the air. To avoid a rusty appearance — especially is this the case with celery — postpone the use of water until a short time before serving. CLEANSING SALAD PLANTS Too much care cannot be exercised in cleansing salad plants. First of all, cut ofi the earthy root, remove coarse or discolored leaves, and wash thoroughly; each leaf of lettuce needs careful attention, lest the tiny insects of the same color as the lettuce it- self, whidi so often infest the plant, be retained; watercress needs careful attention for the same reason. Crisp as above, then dram and swing lightly in wire basket (salad plant drainer) or in a coarse net or piece of cheesecloth. Wipe each leaf of lettuce without bruis- ing it; dry shredded cabbage, sliced cucumbers, radishes, celery, etc., between folds of soft cheesecloth; then let stand exposed to the POINTS IN SALAD MAKING 319 isiir a few moments. This careful drying is necessary, as oil and water do not commingle and a salad is perfectly dressed only when each individual leaf or bit of vegetable is lightly coated with oil or appropriate dressing. PREPARATIONS OF SALAD MATERIALS Formerly it was considered a culinary sin to cut lettuce with a knife: the proper thing was to shred the leaves with the fingers. Steel knives gave an unpleasant taste to the dressed salad, but by use of a silver or silver-plated knife the trouble is obviated. Before dressing, if quickly done, lettuce may be cut with any kind of a clean, well-poUshed knife. The varieties of cos lettuce may be more artistically arranged, especially in compound salads, if the leaves be cut in ribbons of tmiform width. Lay the leaves one above another in a pile, then cut through all at once. It certainly would be a sin against beauty to cut tiie delicate heart leaves of cabbage lettuce. A thick paring shoiild be cut from cucumbers. Radishes make an effective looking salad when sliced without removing the pink sldn; both should be sliced or cut in uniform pieces. Cubes of cucumber rather than slices give variety. Cooked vegetables should be firm, that they may be cut in neat pieces of uniform shape and size. For this reason, new potatoes are better than old. Salad herbs and plants have but little food value: they are simply appetizers. In complex salads, or salads of many ingredients, nutritious food materials are mixed with those that are simply savory, or spicy and crisp, and such salads not only tempt the ap- petite, but satisfy it. These nutritious articles, whether cooked vegetables, meat or fish, before being combined wit> the crisp plants, are usually marinated or allowed to stand some time in a French dressing, all or a part of which they will absorb. DRAINING SALAD MATERIALS When mayonnaise or a thick boiled dressing is to be used with salad material that has been marinatedf the marinade is carefully drained off, lest it thin the dressing that is to be added. POINTS TO BE REMEMBERED IN SALAD MAKING (i) Salad herbs and plants should be clean, cold and ciisp. (2) Salad materials that are cut should be neat and symmetrical in shape. 3£o PBACnCAL COOKING AND SERTTlfG (3) Meat, fish, etc., and most cooked vegetables, used in salads, should be well marinated and cold before mixing with crisp plants and sauce. (4) The ingredients composing the salad should not be com- bined until the last moment before serving. FRENCH DRESSING (for uncooked OS COOKED VEGETABLES AND FOR MASINATING COOKED SALAD UATERIALS) i teaspoonful of salt. 6 tablespoonfuls of oil. i teaspoonful of fiesh ground 2 to 6 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice pepper. or vinegar. A few grains of cayenne, paprika or black pepper. If desired: A few drips of onion juice, or the salad bowl may be nibbed with a slice of onion, or clove of garlic. Mix the condiments — a Kttle mustard is approved by some — add the oil and, when well mixed, add the acid, a few chops at a time, and beat until an emulsion is formed, then pour over the prepared materials and toss with the spoon and fork imtil the dressing has been absorbed. No dressing should remain in the bottom of the bowl and the leaves or other materials should be glossy with oil; if they look dry more dressing is needed. Claret vinegar is often used with lettuce salad. Recipes for mayonnaise and boiled dressings may be found on pages 214 and 216. The former, although given first, is not Qie best approved manner of dressing a salad with French dressing. Mix the pepper and salt, the pepper if possible should be ground at the moment (tiny china or wo«>d spice mills may be bought for table use), then add the oil and when the salt is dissolved or taken up by the oil sprinkle this upon the prepared salad, then turn the leaves over and over as before and finish with the lemon juice or vinegar. Lemon juice, which is a natural add, is "far and away" preferable to any variety of vinegar, any one of which if not a "manufactured" product is at least a product of fermentation. The quantity of acid used depends upon the variety of salad and individual taste, but a salad is not intended for an acid dish. The acid flavor may be made more pronounced by adding the acid first (instead of the oil) with the condiments and the oil last. POTATO SALAD WITH FRENCH DRESSING 3»i ENDIVE SALAD If the endive be wilted, revive by setting the stalk in water (avoid wetting the leaves). Use the well-blanched leaves only; wipe these with a damp cloth. Just before serving, dress with French dressing made with tarragon vinegar. Garnish with slices of radish and a whole radish cut to resemble a flower. Or serve in rings of green or red pepper, sprinkling with a tablespoonful of minute pearl onions. ASPARAGUS SALAD Asparagus alone or in combination with lettuce or cooked vege- tables is served with French, mayonnaise or boiled dressing. It is good with cooked chicken or egg and mayonnaise dressing. ASPARAGUS SALAD MOULDED IN ASPIC Put a little chicken aspic in a charlotte mould standing in ice water; when set arrange upon it slices of hard-boiled egg and as- paragus points. Dip cooked asparagus tips in aspic and press against the chilled sides of the mould; when firm £11 with aiteniate layers of asparagus mixed with jelly mayonnaise and aspic jelly^ Serve on a larger mould of the same with lettuce and mayoniiaiBe. POTATO SALAD Dress one quart of cold, boiled potato balls, cut from raw por tatoes, blanched and cooked untQ tender, in the order given, with half a teaspoonful of paprika, two teaspoonfuls of salt, six table- spoonfuls of oil, a tablespoonful of onion juice and six tablespoonr fuls of vinegar, in which beets have been pickled; toss the balls aiter the addiiion of each ingredient. Garnish with pickled beets. ServB In lettuce nests with cold meat. POTATO SALAD* WITH FRENCH DRES^NO Rub the inade of a salad bowl with a dove of gaj-llc, cut in halves. M'T a quart of cold boiled potatoes, cut in small cubes, with half a small onion, grated, and a tablespoonful of fine-cut parsley. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and five or six tablespoonfuls of oil, and toss until evenly mixed; then toss again with three tablespoon- fuls of vinegar, £et stand in a cool place a little time before serving. 322 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING POTATO SALAD WITH BACON (HOT) Cut one fourth pound of tender sliced bacon into tiny bits, and fry until a very light brown. Take out the bits of bacon, and saute in the fat a small, delicately flavored onion, cut fine. Add half as much vinegar as fat, a very little salt, a few grains of cayenne and half as much boiling water, or meat broth, as vinegar. Have ready potatoes boiled, unpared, until tender in salted water. Remove the skins and slice the hot potatoes in the frying-pan, enough only to take up the liquid, sprinkle in the bits of cooked bacon, toss together and serve. TOMATO SALAD Plunge small tomatoes, of similar size, in a wire basket, into boil- ing water. Remove at once, and cut out a circular piece around the stem of each. Remove the skins, and set aside on ice to chill. When ready to serve, dispose each tomato on a lettuce leaf seasoned with French dressing. Fill each cavity with a spoonful of mayon- naise or boiled dressing, and press into the dressing quarters of hard-boiled eggs. Before setting aside to chill, tomatoes are usually dusted inside with salt, to draw out the liquid, but the salt certainly toughens the tomato. TOMATO AND CUCUMBER SALAD Alternate slices of chilled tomato and cucumber, dressed with French dressing, along two sides of a salad bowl, with a line of heart leaves of lettuce between. Decorate the slices of tomato with stars of mayonnaise dressing. STUFFED TOMATO SALAD Peel small tomatoes, and cut out the hard pieces around the stem ends, to make tomato cups. Sprinkle inside lightly with salt and pepper, and fill with equal portions of celery and walnuts, cut in pieces and mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Serve on lettuce leaves, and garnish with curled celery (see page 32, Chapter IV). Pass mayonnaise on a separate dish. CABBAGE SALAD Cream one fourth cup of butter, and beat into it the yolk, then the white of an egg. Add, also, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and APPLE AND CRESS SALAD 323 one fourth teaspoonful, each, of mustard, salt, and paprika. Then pour on very gradually, beating constantly, half a cup of hot vinegar. Cook over hot water, iintil the mixture thickens a little — it should be like thick cream — and let cool before stirring into a generous pint of fine-shredded cabbage, prepared for salad. This makes an acid dressing. CABBAGE SALAD NO. 2 Beat the yolks of three eggs, half a teaspoonful of mustard mixed for the table, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one fourth teaspoonful of salt. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter, then, gradually, five tablespoonfvds of hot vinegar. Stir and cook over hot water until the mixture is thick and smooth. Just before using, mix with crisp, fine-shredded cabbage. The centre of a handsome head of cabbage may be cut out and shredded and the shell thus formed used as a bowl from which the salad is served. The cabbage bowl may stand upon a hot napkin holding hot fried oysters. If the cabbage bowl be chilled, the heat of the napkin will not reach the salad. CUCUMBER SALAD FOR FISH COURSE With a handy slicer or fluted knife remove the outside rind from the cucumbers, cut in thin slices, and let stand in ice water to chill, retaining the slices in the order in which they were cut. Wipe dry, and arrange the slices in the salad bowl in the form of a Greek cross. Make a French dressing in the proportion of three table- spoonfuls of cider vinegar to six tablespoonfuls of oil, half a tea- spoonful of salt, and a dash of paprika. Rub the inside of the salad bowl with the cut side of an onion or sprinkle with one tablespoon- ful, each, of minute pearl onions and fine-chopped parsley. APPLE AND CRESS SALAD (NORMANDY) Pare and cut four apples into short, match-shaped pieces. Dress with oil, vinegar or lemon juice, salt and paprika. Dress the leaves from a bunch of cress in the same manner. Dispose the apple in a serving dish, with the cress in a wreath around it. This salad will be found particularly appetizing to serve with game, domestic ducks, geese, and roast pork. 324 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING FRENCH BEAN SALAD Use flageolets, the dried, green beans imported from France. These beans are also put up in glass bottles, but the dried are less expensive and, probably, more wholesome. Soak in cold water several hours, then drain and set to cook in boiling salted water. When tender set aside to cool, then dress with French dressing made with onion juice. Serve on lettuce leaves. Garnish with stuffed olives. Lima beans are particularly good as a salad, so, also, are cold Boston baked beans. Any one of these, after being dressed, may be sprinkled with fine-chopped parsley, olives, cu- cumber pickles, green or red peppers or chives. CRESS AND EQQ SALAD Dress a bunch of cress with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Cut the whites of two hard-boiled eggs into eighths, lengthwise, and arrange them on the cress to simulate the petals of a flower. Press a star of mayonnaise dressing in the centre of the petals. Pass an egg yolk through a sieve and arrange around the dressing. Send to the table in ttiis form, but toss together when serving. CAULIFLOWER AND BEET SALAD Dress flowerets of cold cooked cauliflower with oil, salt, pepper, and vinegar or lemon juice. Dress the shredded outside leaves of a head of lettuce, and a beet, cut in figures, and the chopped trim- mings, each, separately, with the same ingredients. Dispose the lettuce in the centre of a serving dish, and the carefully drained cauliflower above. Sprinkle with the figures cut from the beet, and dispose the chopped beet in points aroimd the central mass. Serve mayonnaise in a dish apart. OKRA SALAD Select young and tender okra pods; wash clean, then boil until tender; drain and set aside to cool. Cut in slices one fourth inch in thickness. If at hand, rub over the inside of the salad bowl with the cut side of a dove of garlic, or put in the centre of the bowl a cube of bread rubbed with the garlic. Add to the bowl the okra, a green sweet pepper, chopped fine, and a little fresh-grated horsera(Ush. Sprinkle over a little salt, toss about to distribute the BIRD'S NEST SALAD jaS salt, then add olive oil, to coat the ingredients lightly; gently toss and mix, then add a little vinegar, tarragon preferred. Serve eadi portion on a heart leaf of tender lettuce. Shces of fresh tomato or cubes of tomato jelly are an effective garnish for an okra salad. CHEESE AND CELERY SALAD Cut blanched celery stalks into small pieces; add half the bulk of Edam cheese broken or cut into bits; dress with French dress- ing ; turn into a salad bowl, lined with heart leaves of lettuce. For a garnish, remove the centre from half a tomato, cut the edge in points to simulate the petals of a flower, and fill with two or three celery tips. Serve with bread and butter sandwiches. ENDIVE AND EQG SALAD Arrange a head of well-washed and dried endive on a salad dish with the blanched leaves in the centre. Dispose about the blanched heart four hard-boiled eggs, cut into lengthwise quarters. Mix half a teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonf ul of paprika and six table- spoonfuls of oil. Stir in gradually three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Pour over the endive and egg. Toss together and serve. CELERY, ENGLISH WALNUT AND PIMENTO SALAD Add one third cup of beaten cream to three fourths cup of mayonnaise, a cup and a half of sliced celery, three fourths cup of English walnuts, and two chopped pimentos, after cutting from the latter some fanciful figures. Arrange in nests of lettuce, garn- ish each with one of the figures, a nut, and celery, and place celery tips between the nests. BIRD'S NEST SALAD Fashion small nests from cooked spinach, chopped and seasoned with salt, pepper, oil, and lemon juice. When cold arrange in the nests eggs of Neufchatel cheese, flecked with paprika. Shape the eggs with the smooth sides of butter paddles. Fill in between the nests with dressed lettuce or blanched celery tips. Serve with brown bread and butter sandwiches. In serving the nests, use a broad-bladed silver knife. 336 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING A NEW SPINACH SALAD. (JULIA D. CHANDLER, PHILADELPHIA) I Neufchitel cheese. Salad oiL 4 hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Salt. f cup of cooked spinach. Cayenne. Sift the yolks of egg and spinach separately; add oil, salt and cayenne, to taste, mix all thoroughly, and when well blended shape into balls. Serve on white leaves of lettuce with French, mayon- naise or boiled dressing. CRESS, CELERY AND WALNUT SALAD Arrange a wreath of watercress upon a serving dish. Inside this place some fine cut celery, and in the centre pile some meats of English walnuts, sliced thin. Garnish with sprays of curled celery. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, mix thoroughly and dress with oil; then mix again, adding half as much vinegar as oil; mix once more and serve. EQQ AND TOMATO JELLY SALAD Cook a pint of tomatoes, a bay leaf, a slice of onion, and a stalk of celery fifteen minutes; add one fourth package of gelatine soft- ened in one fourth cup of cold water, then strain. Chill four cups. Press half a cooked egg, dipped in liquid gelatine, against the side of each cup; when set fill with the jelly. UnmotSd on shredded lettuce, dressed with French dressing. Serve with mayonnaise. TOMATO JELLY WITH NUT SALAD Prepare a tomato jelly as above, adding, if convenient, half a cup of mushroom trimmings or a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup. Turn into a round border mould. When cold and turned from the mould, fill the open centre with shredded cabbage, pecan nuts, and a sweet red pepper, cooked and sliced, mixed with mayon- naise or a boiled dressing. CELERY JELLY Let a cup of celery stalks simmer in three cups of chicken broth or water with a slice of onion, a few slices of carrot, and a sprig of parsley; strain and season with salt and pepper, To a pint of CUCUMBER AND TOMATO SALAD 327 liquid add one fourth package of gelatine, softened in one fourth cup of cold water, and strain again. Tint a delicate green if wished. Mould in a ring mould; fill the centre with cubes of chicken and English walnuts, broken in pieces and dressed with mayonnaise dressing. Surround with heart leaves of lettuce, first dipped in French dressing. Chestnuts, roasted or boiled, cut in pieces and mixed with mayonnaise, are particularly good with celery jelly. The jelly is usually made from the coarse outer stalks. But the less fibrous, inner stalks may be used, and the pieces served in the jelly; introduce these as pieces of fruit in a fruit jelly (see page 468-9). STUFFED TURNIP SALAD Select small turnips of same size; pare and trim to stand level on a plate, pare again with a fluted knife. Cook in boiling water, without salt, until tender, drain and sprinkle with salt. Remove the centre from each turnip to leaye a thin shell. Prepare French dressing, using a tablespoonful of oil and a few drops of onion juice for each two tum^s. Turn the turnips in the dressing and set aside to chill. To serve fill with cold peas, asparagus tips or tiny string beans, cut small, seasoned with Frendi dressing. CHICKEN SALAD IN SALAD ROLLS Use by measure twice as much chicken as celery — cut the chicken in small cubes — do not chop it — and marinate with French dressing. When ready to serve, drain, add the celery, and mix with mayonnaise dressing. If boiled dressing be used, mari- nate the chicken with part of that, adding more with the celery when ready to serve. SHRIMP AND CUCUMBER SALAD Break the shrimps in pieces and marinate with French dressing. At serving time, add an equal quantity of chilled cubes of cu- cumber; mix with mayonnaise dressing. Shape into a mound and cover lightly with whole shrimps and the heart leaves of lettuce. Surroimd with sliced cucumbers, dressed with French dressing flavored with onion juice. SWEETBREADS, CUCUMBER AND TOMATO SALAD Marinate a pair of cooked sweetbreads with French dressing, chill, drain, and mix with sliced cucumbers and mayonnaise dress- 3*8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING ing, whitened with whipped cream. Arrange in a salad dish. Surround with slices of chilled tomato in nests of lettuce with French dressing. On the tomato dispose slices of sweetbread, capped with stars of mayonnaise. SALMON SALAD Let two slices of boiled salmon cool in the liquid in which it was cooked; remove the skin and bones and marinate with oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. When ready to serve, drain and dispose on lettuce, cut in ribbons and dressed with French dressing. Sur- round with a circle of sliced cucumbers. Serve with mayonnaise or a cold Bemaise sauce. Sauce Tartare is also good. SCALLOP SALAD Soak the scallops in salted water; let simmer five minutes in boil- ing water; drain, cool, cut in slices and marinate with French dress- ing. At serving, drain and mix with an equal bulk of celery; dress with mayonnaise; shape in a mound. Mask with mayonnaise. Outline designs on the side of the mound with capers; fill the de- signs with chopped white of egg and figures cut from beets. OYSTER SALAD IN ICE BOWL Freeze three fourths inch of water in a large charlotte russe moidd. Weight a smaller mould and set upon the centre of the ice. Fill the outer mould with water and let freeze. Fill the small mould with warm water and lift it out. Line the open space (the ice bowl) with lettuce. Fill with layers of "plumped," or scalded and chilled, oysters, marinated with French dressing and dressed celery or cabbage. In serving the salad, do not disturb the lettuce lining. Serve mayonnaise in a bowl apart, or use this for dressing the oysters before putting them in place. SHAD ROE AND CUCUMBER SALAD Gently simmer a shad roe with onion and bay leaf in salted acid- ulated water twenty minutes; cool, cut in slices and cubes and marinate with French dressing made with onion juice; to the cubes of roe add a cucumber, cut in cubes, and mayonnaise to moisten. CELERY, APiPLE AND GREEN PEPPER SALAD ^29 Dispose the salad upon a bed of heart leaves of lettuce. Garnish the long sides with sliced cuciunber and the top with sliced roe and chillies. ORANGE AND ENGLISH WALNUT SALAD Slice four peeled oranges lengthwise, dress with three or four tabiespoonfuls of olive o& and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Arrange the slices in a mound upon a layer of lettuce leaves. Dress one cup of sliced nut meats with one tablepsoonful of oil, a dash of salt, and half a tablespoonful of lemon juice and dispose upon the centre of the mound. Toss together before serving. CELERY AND ORANGE SALAD Clean a bunch of celery; fringe a dozen two-inch pieces and make all crisp in cold water to which lemon slices have been added. Wipe the stalks dry, then cut into bits and dress with French dress- ing. Turn on to a serving dish. Garnish with slices of sour orange, cut lengthwise of the orange, then in halves lengthwise, and the curled celery. Serve with roast duck. CELERY, APPLE AND PISTACHIO SALAD Let apple and celery, cut julienne fashion and sprinkled with lemon juice, stand undl chilled. Mix with mayonnaise dressing, to which one fourth cup of blanched and pounded pistachio nuts has been added. Garnish with lettuce and rings of apple sprinkled with lemon juice, to keep them white; decorate with stars of mayonnaise and halved pistachio nuts. For the " rings," cut cored apples in slices. PINEAPPLE, SWEET BREAD AND PIMENTO SALAD Mix cub^ of sweetbread, pineapple, shapes cut from pimentos and bits of celery with mayonnaise dressing mixed with whipped cream. Shape in a mound and cover mw. dressing. Decorate with figures cut from pimentos, and surround with lettuce. At each comer dispose a pimento, slashed on the edge, with strips of pineapple in the centre, to simulate a bright red flower. CELERY, APPLE AND GREEN PEPPER SALAD Crisp the stalks of celery by letting them stand in very cold water with a slice or two of lemon half an hour. Cut the stalks into 33° PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING bits, pare and cut the apples into slices, and the slices into cube! or o^er small shapes. Sprinkle with lemon juice to avoid dis coloring, and also to flavor. Scald the pepper, from which the seedi and veins have been removed, and cut into fine shreds. Mi) equal portions of apple and celery with such quantity of pqipe as is desired. Also, English walnuts, pecan nuts, or blanchec almonds, cut in small pieces, may be added. Mix with mayon naise dressing whitened with whipped cream, and serve on lettucf leaves. GRAPE, ORANGE AND NUT SALAD Remove the skins from California grapes — white ones pre- ferred — cut in halves, and remove seeds. Blanch an equa quantity of English walnuts or pecan nuts, and break in pieces Remove peel from several oranges, and cut in lengthwise slices, Dress each, separately, with oil and a little lemon juice. Mix and serve on heart leaves of lettuce. Pistachio nuts, cut in slices, ir place of the almonds, and a garnish of mayonnaise make a hand- somer, but more expensive, d&sh. BANANA AND PIMENTO SALAD Sprinkle sliced bananas with lemon juice, to avoid discoloring, Dispose on lettuce leaves, and sprinkle with strips of pimento Garnish with mayonnaise whitened with whipped cream. COLLEGE SALAD. (MARIA W. HOWARD, BOSTON) I cup of Young America cheese. 3 pimentos cut in pieces. S Neufchitel cheeses. Paprika. 10 olives cut in small pieces. Cream. Mix the cheese, olives, and pimentos. Season with salt anc S>aprika, moisten with cream, ^pe with butter pats, arrange or ettuce leaves and marinate with a French dressing. GamiEl with pimentos cut in strips and horseradish dressing. HORSERADISH DRESSING Mix four tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, one tablespoonful each, of lemon juice and vinegar, and three tablespoonfuls oi beaten cream. Season with salt and paprika. RELISHES AND. HORS D'(EUVRES 331 DUCK SALAD Cut the meat from a cold duck into thin strips or into cubes, marinate with salt and pepper and three portions of oil to two of sour orange juice. After standing some hours, drain and mix with half the quantity, each, of orange carpels, freed from seeds and membrane, and bits of celery. Garnish with mayonnaise and half slices of orange, from which the peeling has not been removed. LOBSTER SALAD Marinate the meat of a lobster with French dressing, after cut- ting it in cubes; drain and add two or more hard-boiled eggs, chopped. Dispose in a mound on a bed of lettuce leaves, letting the leaves come out beyond the lobster. Surround the lobster with slices of tomato, one overlapping another, each piece holding a spoonful of mayonnaise dressing; sprinkle the whole with fine- chopped green peppers. RELISHES AND HORS D'(EUVRES from time out of mind, as the prelude to an elaborate English or American dinner, raw oysters with brown bread and butter have been served, though conservatively inclined entertainers are agreed that, at the best appointed tables, the perfect dinner begins with soup. Raw oysters on the half shell were the opening wedge to innova- tion; and now, even on very formal occasions, the standard Italian custom — once considered so very Bohemian — of prefacing the meal with little "kickshaws," carefully prepared and served, has obtained. In Russia these relishes, or hors d'oeuvres, that serve to whet the appetite for the more substantial dishes that are to follow, form quite a meal in themselves. Also, the Italian service is quite elaborate; dishes, divided into compartments, are provided; and in the several compartments are tastefully arranged thin slices of tongue, sausage, or ham, potted or devilled meats, caviare, turned from its receptacle and garnished with slices of lemon, fillets of sardine or anchovies, lobster, oysters, chickens' livers, pickles, cucumbers, olives, radishes, bread and butter sandwiches, oat biscuit, etc. The respective compartments of the dish are appropriately garnished with celery plumes, parsley, cress, pepper grass, aspic jelly, etc. 332 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING On formal occasions, perhaps the most satisfactory way of deal- ing with this feature of the meal is to place upon the plate of each guest just before the dinner is annoimced a single cold canap^ For the foundation of these, thin slices of stale brown or white bread, prepared as for sandwiches, are needed. The pieces of bread should not be more than two inches long and an inch and a half wide. First spread them with butter. Then press upon the butter, using either plain or fancy butter, such bits of material as it is desired to use, taking care to secure proper combinations in flavor and color. Similar canapfe may be served at the dose of the dinner, with the cheese, though at this stage of the meal pulled bread, devilled biscuit, etc., with a bit of celery, an olive, and a tiny cube of choice cheese, are in place. The fancy butters are easily made, and a new kind may be pre- sented on each occasion. The best of butter is, of course, a first requisite. This is creamed a little; then sifted material is added to secure such tint and flavor as is desired, cress, olives, capers, cooked spinach, chopped, pounded, and sifted, give a green tinge to butter. Either fish or flesh may be used as the canopy or cover- ing. Anchovies may be added to green butter to produce anchovy butter, while lobster coral alone gives a reddish color to butter. Cooked yolks of eggs, sharpened with capers, are added with ad- vantage to almost any fancy butter. When pastes, as of ham, sardine, etc., are used, a forcing bag and tube is called into requisi- tion to place them neatly upon the bread. Hot savories or hors d'oeuvres may be substituted for the cold, either at the beginning or at the end of the meal. These include savory souffles of fish or cheese, or of highly seasoned ragout mixtures, also various kinds of cheese mixtures, Gnocchi, rarebits, etc. All are served in tiny paper or pastry cases, or in very small individual portions. In all savories, whether hot or cold, three things are essential: small- ness in size, neatness and daintiness in appearance, and piquancy in flavor. OYSTERS AND CLAMS Raw oysters and clams are served on the deep half of the shell; these rest on plates of broken ice, or on a bed of ice on oyster plates devised for the purpose. A lengthwise quarter or a slice of lemon is served on each plate; salt, cayenne pepper or paprika and brown bread sandwiches are passed at the same time. Sometimes a thin slice of cuciunber, dipped in French dressing, is put between the bread. CREAMED OYSTERS AU GRATIN IN GREEN PEPPERS. LOBSTER SANDWICHES. (See page 340.) MATERIALS FOR HORS D'OEUVRES. Sardines, olives, anchovies, cheese, pate de foie gras, caviare, mustard, celery, etc. FRESH MUSHROOM COCKTAIL — WITH SANDWICHES TOMATO COCKTAIL 333 OYSTER AND CLAM COCKTAILS Oyster and clam cocktails are served from small glasses, or from tomatoes, skinned, with centres scooped out to form cups. Oysters are also served hot, in scallop or silver shells, or in cocottes or souffle dishes; five or six oysters constitute the service. The oysters are ■seasoned, bits of butter are added and the dish is set into the oven long enough to plump the oysters. Surround with tiny sippets of toast. Serve lemon, slice or quarter, on each plate. FRESH MUSHROOM COCKTAIL Allow six mushrooms (caps about an inch and a quarter in diameter) for each service. Shorten the stems, peel the caps and simmer in boiling water about fifteen minutes; add a little salt just before removing from the fire. Skim out the mushrooms and set aside to become chilled. Reserve the liquid and the uncooked trimmings of the mushrooms to use in some other dish. Set cock- tail glasses, each containing three or four tablespoonfuls of choice tomato catsup, in the centre of small plates; on each plate dispose five heart leaves of lettuce, a mushroom on eaCh leaf, and drop a mushroom on the top of the catsup. Serve as an appetizer at luncheon or dinner. Three or four crackers or tiny-bread-and- butter sandwiches on a separate plate should be set at the upper right hand of each cover. Salt, paprika, Worcestershire sauce, or lemon juice may be added, at discretion, to the catsup. With an oyster fork the mushrooms and lettuce are dipped in the catsup and TOMATO COCKTAIL Select small, smooth and very choice tomatoes. Peel and chill them. When about ready to serve cut them in quarters through the stem and blossom ends, then cut these quarters in halves or thirds to make pieces of a size suitable for eating. Dispose these on crisp lettuce hearts, set on a plate aroimd a tall-stemmed glass. Rub a bowl with a clove of garHc, cut in halves, add two table- spoonfuls of tomato catsup, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one fourth teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce and two or three drops of tabasco sauce or one fourth teaspoonful of paprika; mix and turn into a tall glass. The pieces of tomato and the lettuce hearts are to be dipped into the sauce and eaten from an oyster fork. Six p'eces of tomato are enough for one service. 334 PRACTIC/\L COOKING AND SERVING COCKTAIL OF BROILED LIVE LOBSTER While broiled lobster is specified for this cocktail, the dish may be prepared from lobster steamed or boiled. Of course fresh- cooked lobster is preferable to camied, but choice canned lobster may be used. Set cocktail glasses, each containing three or four tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup of best quality, in the centre of small plates; on each plate set three or four heart leaves of lettuce, a choice mouthful of lobster on each leaf and one on the top of the catsup in the glass. With an oyster fork the lobster is dipped into the catsup and eaten. Serve as an appetizer at luncheon or dinner. Salt, paprika, horseradish, lemon juice, tabasco sauce or other seasoning may be added at discretion to the catsup. QRAPE FRUIT AND WHITE GRAPE COCKTAIL Remove the sections of pulp from grape-fruit, cut in halves, keep- ing the pieces as whole as possible. Remove the skin from white grapes, cut each grape in halves, crosswise, and take out the seeds. Set the pulp, juice and prepared grapes aside in a cool place to become thoroughly chilled. When ready to serve, dispose in tall- stemmed glasses, sprinkle lightly with confectioner's sugar, table- spoonful to each glass, and add a teaspoonful of sherry to each glass. The sherry is omitted more often than used. OLIVES CMives, served as a relish or hors d'ceuvre, should be very cold; if convenient, they may be arranged on a bed of ice. STUFFED OLIVES WITH PUREE Have ready round croutons of cold bread; spread these with pit6 de foie gras, anchovy paste, or with ham, chicken liver, or smoked tongue made into a puree. In the centre of the crouton place a pimola (olive stuffed with sweet peppers) and pipe sifted yolk of egg, fine-chopped white, fine-chopped aspic or mayonnaise dress- ing aroimd it. If pimolas are not at hand, use olives ; cut off a thin slice from the broad end of the olive, that it may stand level; then with a sharp knife peel the olive round and roimd in a spiral, keep- ing close to the stone; press the olive back in shape, and fill the ANCHOVY PUREE 33S cavity left by the stone with anchovy paste or fillets, pieces of pimento, capers, etc.; finish as before. CANAPES, INDIAN STYLE i cup of cooked ham. i tablespoonful of chutney, i cup of cooked chicken. J teaspoonful of curry powder i cup of butter. Salt and pepper as needed. Pound the ingredients in a mortar; pass through a sieve and spread on rounds, diamonds or crescents of bread, fried and cooled. Decorate with fine-chopped white and yolk of egg. LOBSTER CANAPES Cut out diamonds, hearts, or roimds of bread one fourth inch thick and two inches in diameter. Spread mth butter, and brown in the oven. When cold, ^read with a layer of "green butter.?' Upon this spread smoothly a layer of lobster meat, pounded in a mortar with butter, pressed through a sieve, and seasoned with a little paprika. Above this place a heart leaf of lettuce; above this, a thin slice of beet root, shaped with a cutter. Set on the serving dish, and force a star or mayonnaise upon the centre of the beet root. Thoroiighly chill before serving. For the "green butter": to a quarter pound of creamed butter add gradually the pulp of six boned anchovies, a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley, two tablespoonfuls of fine-chopped capers, and spinach pui6t to tint. LOBSTER CANAPES NO. 2 Cut, fry, and cool the bread as usual; sprea,d the bread with lobster butter; in the centre of each croustade press a large scallop, cut from the meat of the lobster tail, previously marinated for an hour or more in oil, lemon juice and paprika. Gamiab the edge of the canap^ with capers or fine-chopped gherkin or parsley. ANCHOVY PUR^E 4 boned anchovies. i cup of butter. 2 hard-cooked yolks of eggs. A dash of paprika. Pound the above ingredients together in a mortar until smooth : then pass through a purfe sieve. 336 PRACnCAL COOKING AND SERVING ANCHOVY CROUSTADES Have ready rounds of bread, fried and cooled; spread these with anchovy puree and curl upon each an anchovy, drained from oil and wiped dry; fill in the centre with sifted yolk of egg, and with a bag and very small star tube pipe stars of anchovy puree around the edge of the bread. If the anchovies can be separated easily into lengthwise fillets, use a single fillet for each croustade. SARDINE CANAPES Drain the sardines and wipe them with a cloth, to free them from the oil of the can ; pick off the skin and divide into fillets if possible. Slice a mild onion, put a layer into a dish long enough to take the fillets, lay the fillets on the onion, alternating the layers, and pour over the fillets a marinade of one part vinegar to four of oil; let stand several hours. When ready to serve drain and dispose the fillets on bits of bread (a little longer and wider than the fillets), spread with butter creamed with a little fine chopped parsley. Push a tiny heart, leaf of lettuce, or sprig of water-cress, under the ends of each fillet. SARDINE CANAPES, NO. 2 Substitute sardines, freed from skin and bone, for the anchovies in anchovy piuree; spread the sardine puree upon rounds of bread, fried and cooled; pipe with the puree so as to divide into quarters; fill two of these with chopped white of egg and two with sifted yolk of egg, or use chopped gherkin, olives, or pickled beet with either whites or yolks, diopped fine. CAVIARE IN SWEDISH TIMBALE CASES (HOTEL MONTHLY) Prepare tiny Swedish timbale cases, not more than half an inch deep, and fill these with caviare; above the caviare place a freshly opened oyster and two tiny stalks of cress. Pass lemon slices at the same time. CAVIARE WITH EQQS AND CUCUMBERS Butter rounds of Boston brown bread, press upon these rings of eold boued egg-white, fill the rings with caviare and place slices of cucumber, dressed with French dressing. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH CAVIARE 337 CAVIARE CROUSTADES Add a few drops of lemon juice to the caviare, and mix and spread upon cold croustades of bread. Decorate the edges with fine chopped cucumber pickles, olives, and sweet, peppers mixed to- gether. PATE DE FOIE QRAS Pate de foie gras is used to spread sandwiches or other hors d'oeuvres, though thus used the aroma of the pkt6 is liable to evap- orate before the moment of eating. Cut into small cubes, the Y>kt6 is an addition to dishes served hot in casseroles or in purees of chicken, etc., that are steamed or poached in timbale or border moulds. The cubes would be crushed, if they were stirred into the mixture. As the preparation is put in with spoon or pastry-bag, arrange the cubes here and there. PATE DE FOIE QRAS CROUSTADES Pound to a paste two freshly boiled fowls' livers; the livers of chicken or turkey will answer, but those of a goose or a brace of duck are better, while the equivalent of pite de foie gras is best of all. Add two tablespoonfuls of creamed butter and a little paprika or cayenne, pass through a sieve and heat over water, then spread on the rounds of hot fried bread, piping a design above. Or stir the liver puree, mixed with the beaten yolks of two eggs, into a cup of scalded cream; stir until the mixture thickens, adding salt and pepper meanwhile, then pile on the rounds of fried bread. ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH CAVIARE (Hors d'Oeuvre) Wipe dry as many artichoke bottoms (canned or fresh) as are needed. Roll them singly, in olive oil, then in half the measure of vinegar with a little salt and pepper. Pour the remainder of the dressing into the hollowed side of the bottoms and set aside in a cool place for an hour or more. When ready to serve dispose on a serving-dish or, one each, on individual plates. Cut out rings from delicately flavored aspic jelly and dispose in the centre of the arti- chokes. FiU the opening in the centrt of the jelly with caviare mixed with a little lemon juice. Decorate with 5gures cut from slices of pickled beet and with cubes of aspic. S. ;rve with pulled bread or brown bread sandwiches. 338 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING JELLIED MACEDOINE IN TOMATOES (Hors d'Oeuvre) Select rather small tomatoes, somewhat firm and with smooth exterior. Cut out a smaU piece around the stem end, peel with care and take out the seeds. Mix together two or three truffles, cut in tiny cubes, one fourth cup, each, of cooked peas, green and yellow string beans, cut fine, asparagus tips, bits of celery, carrot or whatever vegetable is at hand. To these add an equal measure of aspic jelly and mayonnaise dressing and stir over ice water until beginning to set, then use to fill the tomatoes. Make smooth on the top and set aside on the ice for half an hour or longer. When ready to serve cut each tomato (with a knife dipped in hot water) in quarters. Serve on heart leaves of lettuce. Pass small sand- wiches at the same time. TRUFFLED EGGS X LA MUSCOVITE Have as many rounds of toast, two inches and one half in diameter, as there are persons to serve. Spread the toast, while hot, with butter. When cold spread with caviare mixed with a few drops of lemon juice. The smallest sized can of caviare and a teaspoonful of lemon juice will be enough for eight rounds. For each service have ready a small, cold, hard-cooked egg, from which the shell has been removed. Cut a slice from the rounding end of each egg, that it may stand level. To three fourths cup of mayonnaise dressing beat in one fourth cup of consomme, in which a scant tablespoonful of gelatine has been softened and dissolved. When added to the dressing the gelatine mixture must be liquid but not hot. Set the eggs in place and with a silver knife spread the dressing over them; sprinkle with chopped truffles, or garnish with four or more figures cut from slices of truffles, or leave plain. Chill thoroughly before serving as an appetizer at luncheon or dinner. SANDWICHES Sandwiches for service as hors d'oeuvres, either as a preface to a meal or with the salad, are much smaller than those prepared for other service, but, for all home purposes, let the sandwiches be small. They are best when prepared just before serving, but for the lunch or picnic basket they may be kept wrapped in confectioners' or paraffine paper. For large companies, wrap the sandwiches in a damp cloth, wrung as dry as possible, then surround with a dry 5ARDINE SANDWICHES 339 doth; or cover the sandwiches, neatly piled, with a large earthen bowl. Certain sandwiches are better adapted to certain occasions than are others. The rules for salads hold good at all times and salad sandwiches at club luncheons, where the sandwiches, even if prepared at a grand hotel, must of necessity stand several hours before serving, should be gracefully declined by those who have regard for their stomachs. The "much-worked" lettuce-salad sandwich is the worst of the lot. Any variety of bread twenty- four hours old is admissible. Sometimes two varieties are com- bined in the same sandwich. Let the bread, freed from crust, be cut into slices about on eighth an inch thick, then cut into strips or triangles, or stamp out into fanciful shapes. Use the trimmings for bread sauce, puddings, or bread crumbing. Cream the butter to insure its spreading smoothly and evenly. Avoid spreading either the butter or fillmg over the edge. AVhen slices of meat are used, let them be cut as thin as a wafer, and use more than one in each sandwich. Fancy butters are recommended when sliced meat is used. For fillings of meat or fish purees, pounding the same in a mortar to a paste is of advantage; the addition of butter, cream or sauce of some variety gives a proper consistency for spreading. Salted meats and fish give sandwiches of pronounced flavor — acid in the form or lemon juice, chopped pickles or capers is an improve- ment to these and all fish sandwich mixtures. Pastes of fresh fish or meat will bear quite high seasoning. Nut pastes or pounded and sliced nuts and dieese give pleasing fillings. Sweet sandwiches are offered with cocoa or tea; bread or lady- fingers, yellow or white, may be used as the foundation of these; jams, jellies, marmalades, preserved ginger, etc., are the usual fillings. For five o'clock tea, sandwiches spread with flower-flavored butter are considered quite eesthetic. The butter is kept over night, or for some hours, between layers of fresh violets or rose petals in a closely dosed receptacle. SARDINE SANDWICHES Remove the skin and bones from six sardines; pound in a mortar with the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs and three tablespoonfuls of butter; season to taste with paprika and lemon juice, and pass through a fine sieve. Spread crescent, or other shaped pieces of bread with the paste, and press together in pairs. Serve on a napkin; ornament the dish with cress and slices of lemon. Or, substitute Hollandaise sauce for the butter and lemon juice 340 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING LOBSTER SANDWICHES Chop fine the meat of the lobster; add the soft parts, season with tabasco sauce, lemon juice and oil, and spread upon lightly buttered bread, cut for sandwiches. Press two corresponding pieces together. Serve aroimd a support fashioned from bread, fastened to the plate with white of egg or gelatine and holding the large claws of the lobster and heart lettuce leaves. EQQ AND CRESS SANDWICHES Cut stale bread into quarter-inch slices, and with tin cutters stamp out into diamonds, hearts or other fanciful shaped pieces. Mix together sifted yolk of egg, cress leaves and mayonnaise dress- ing. Spread this mixture upon the bread, press two similar-shaped pieces together and serve aroimd a bunch of cress. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs, cut in quarters. PICKLED TONGUE AND RYE BREAD SANDWICHES Pound the tongue (lambs' tongues are good) very fine in a mortar. Pound at the same time a pimento or two or a tablespoonful of capers and a little butter or Bechamel sauce; pass through a sieve and finish as any sandwiches. HAM AND EQQ SANDWICHES Pound together in a mortar half a cup of lean, cooked ham and two tablespoonfuls of fat ham, chopped fine, one third cup of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of cold Bechamel or white sauce. Pass through a sieve. Add the sifted yolks of four cooked eggs, half a teaspoonful of mustard, prepared with tarragon vinegar, a generous teaspoonful of fine chopped capers, and, if desired, a few drops of onion juice. Anchovies, though often used in these sandwiches, should be restricted to those prepared of fish. Spread upon buttered bread prepared for sandwiches, and press two pieces together. Serve without delay. CHICKEN SANDWICHES Poimd the chopped chicken to a paste with a little chopped parsley and cooked yolk of egg. Season with celery salt, a very few drops of onion juice, or "kitchen bouquet"; make more moist with butter, cold poulette, or HoUandaise sauce. OYSTER SALAD IN ICE BOWL. Garnish of pim-olas. (See page 328.) SHAD ROE-AND-CUCUMBER SALAD. (See page 32S.) SCALLOP SALAD. Gamish of celery leaves and curled celery. (See pages 32 and 328 ^ STUFFED TURNIP SALAD CUCUMBER SALAD — MINUTE PEARL ONIONS, FLUTED KNIFE NORWEGIAN SANDWICHES 341 RAW BEEF SANDWICHES Scrape the tender portion of raw beef from the fibres, after cut- ting the beef into thin slices, scrape from one side and then from the other. Often, these sandwiches are heated over the coals in a broiler. Season with salt only, if for an invalid. Celery salt, tabasco sauce or pepper are palatable when allowable. CHEESE SANDWICHES I cup of grated cheese. A few grains of cayenne. I teaspoonful of butter. The yolks of two raw eggs. i teaspoonful of paprika. i cup of thin cream. I teaspoonful of mustard. Salt as needed. Melt the butter, add the cheese and seasoning, and stir until the cheese is melted and smooth, then stir in the yolks of the eggs, beaten and diluted with the cream. Use when cold. Milk, or tomato pur6e may take the place of the cream. RUSSIAN SANDWICHES Spread thin slices of Boston brown bread, stamped out in oval shape and lightly buttered, with Neufchatel, or any cream cheese. Spread, also, an equal number of slices, stamped out and buttered, with fine chopped olives and pimentoes mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Press together in pairs with a crisp heart leaf of lettuce between each pair. Serve while the lettuce is fresh. COTTAGE CHEESE AND CRESS SANDWICHES Chop the cress very fine, using only tender leaves; mix with the cheese, season with salt and paprika and use in the usual manner. CHEESE AND SALTED NUT SANDWICHES Mix grated Edam cheese or other cheese with butter enough to form a paste; season with pepper and add salted nuts sliced thin, not chopped. NORWEGIAN SANDWICHES ^ cup of mayonnaise dressing. 2 teaspoonfuls of anebovy paste. 3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine. Rye bread. ,342 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Mix the chopped eggs with the paste and gradually beat tte dressing into the mixture. Use as a filling for rye bread, cut for sandwiches. Norwegian sandwiches are usually made with but one piece of bread. EQQ SALAD SANDWICHES For each sandwich have three or four heart leaves of lettuce, a hard cooked egg and two triangular slices of stale bread; also a generous allowance of salad dressing, mayonnaise preferred. Spread the bread with the dressing; on it press the egg, cut m slices, and the lettuce; add more dressing and press two pieces of the pre- pared bread together. This may form a course at a luncheon party, or be the principal dish of a home luncheon. Knives and forks are to be provided for eating these sandwiches. LETTUCE, CREAM CHEESE AND PIMENTO SANDWICHES Remove two pimentoes from a can, rinse in cold water and wipe dry on a doth. Chop the pimentoes. Work half a pound of cream cheese with a wooden spoon, then mix the pimentoes through it. With a doughnut cutter stamp out rings of bread from slices of stale (baked twenty-four hours) bread. Spread these with chili sauce salad dressing and then with the cheese mixture. Set a leaf of lettuce between each two rounds, to show through the hole in the centre of the bread. Serve at once. CHAPTER XIII Cheese and What Can Be £>one With It "Some cheeses are made o' skimmed milk and some o' new milk and it's no matter what you call 'em, you can tell which is which by the look and the smell." — George Eliot. AVERAGE COMPOSITION OF CHEESE Cent. Qaese, Axuedcan, pale> as purchased. . .31 .6 Cheese, Cottage 72.0 Cheese, Neufchatd, . average 50.0 Cheese, Pineapple, average 23.0 Cheese, Swiss, average ... 31 . 4 Water Protein Per Per Cent. z8.8 20. Q i8.7 Fat Per Cent. Carbo- hydrates Ash Per ' Per Cent. Cent. 29.9 27.6 35 a; 38 34 ■3 4-3 i-S 2.6 1-3 3-4 1.8 2.4 5-6 4.8 Fuel val. per lb. Calories 2 -OSS I S30 2.24S 2.010 The manufacture of cheese is one of those provident processes instinctive in all mankind, by which food, in time of plenty, is transformed into a state suitable for keeping until a time of need. The preservation of the most valuable constituents of milk becomes possible on accoimt of the coagulating property of albumen, in this case in the form of casdn. More or less of fat is also entangled in the curd during its coagulation; the larger the quantity of fat the softer and n»re easQy brokai up is the cheese during digestion. In cheese, then, we have a compect and concentrated nitrogenous food, corresponding to eggs, meat, and £sh, but unlike meat and fish, in that it is without waste matter. The food value of cheese is diminished by the very fact of its compactness, which renders it difficult of solution. The tiny bit of cheese eaten at the close of a hearty dinner, as a so-called aid to digestion, calls for strong diges- tive power, and the increased effort of the digestive organs put forth 343 344 PRACTICAL CCX)KING AND SERVING to take care of this, will often digest the dinner, and then fail to digest the cheese itself; iJiis may have given rise to the old couplet: "Oh, cheese it is a surly elf, Digesting all things but itself." On account of its high food value cheese deserves more attention than it ordinarily receives in the cuisine. It is not adapted to children's needs, nor should it find a place, in a raw state, to any great extent in the dietary of sedentary people. Yet, finely divided, separated with other ingredients and subjected in cooking to gentle heat, it is readily digested and assimilated by many. Its proper place in the dietary is not in conjunction with meat, but with vegetables and grains. These supply the diluting and waste elements lacking in cheese, and are in turn enriched by the nitrog- enous element of the cheese, in which they are deficient. In the preparation of these dishes, emphasis must be laid on the thorough cooking of the vegetable or grain before the addition of the cheese; for noting is eaten that can exceed in indigestibility cheese cooked at a high temperature. The making of cheese was one of the first industries attempted by the early settlers of this country. Early in the seventeenth centiuy, Cheshire cheese, made from a recipe brought from Eng- land, was sent from Narragansett to England and the Barbadoes in large quantities. At the present time nearly all foreign makes of cheese are successfully imitated on this side of the Atlantic. Rocquefort is an exception. A place possessing the proper condi- tions for ripening this cheese has not yet been found in this country. Parmesan cheese is used quite generally in cookery; being very hard it is serviceable only when grated. It may be bought in bulk, sawed from the whole dbeese. In this condition it will keep in a cool place almost indefinitely. It can also be bought grated ready for use and put up in sealed bottles. Unless the entire contents of a bottle are to be used soon after opening the same, this is not an economical procedure, as the grated cheese moulds very quickly upon exposure to the air. SERVICE OF CHEESE Cheese is usually served as a part of the dessert, or it may be placed before the dessert with the salad, when the salad does not CHEESE CAKES 345 accompany the game or roast. A bit of brown bread or a hard cracker with butter are passed at the same time. The French custom of omitting the sweets and ending the meal with salad and cheese has obtained to considerable extent in this country. In accord with this is the custom of passing, in place of a sweet, Cam- embert or Neufchatel cheese either whole with a cheese knife, or cut in small cubes and disposed upon a handled cheese plate, cov- ered with lace paper and accompanied by a cheese fork, and a tiny jar of bar-le-duc (a currant preserve made in such a manner that the seeded currants retain their shape). Lemon cheese-cakes are often substituted for the raw cheese. Small cheese, Uke Edam and pineapple, are prepared for serving by sawing ofE the top or cutting with a "butter tester" which leaves a scalloped edge. The cheese is then set in a silver cheese holder, or wrapped in a folded napkin, on a plate. A cheese scoop is needed for the service. For occasional service, pieces may be scooped out from a fresh cheese and piled on a plate covered with lace paper. A Stilton or Chester cheese, cut in halves, is served surrounded by a folded napkin. Young America and pineapple are identical in manufacture, but differ in shape. American dairy cheese is usually cut in small uniform pieces and served upon a lace- paper-covered plate. Celery is a favorite accompaniment of cheese when a salad is wanting. COTTAGE CHEESE Let fresh milk stand in a temperature of 100° Fahr. from one to three days, or until the curd separates from the whey. Turn the curd into a coarse cotton bag and let hang in a cool, dry place about twenty-four hours, or until the curd is free from whey. Add salt and sweet cream, to taste, and shape into small balls. In winter the process may be hastened by heating thick, sour or "clabbered" milk over hot water, but, if the water be too hot, a tough cheese results. The cheese is most rich and creamy, when the separation takes place at a low temperature, that is at about 100° Fahr. CHEESE CAKES 1} cups of cottage, cream 01 The grated rind and juice of i lemon. Neufchatel cheese. 3 eggs. 1 cup of sugar. i cup of currants and citron. 2 tablespoonfuls of cream. i cup of sherry wine. ; tablespoonful of melted butter. 346 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Press the cheese through a colander or potato ricer and add the sugar, cream, melted butter, the juice and rind of the lemon, the eggs beaten light, the wine, and the fruit cut in small pieces. Line small tins with pastry, fill with the cheese mixture and bake about fifteen minutes, or until the pastry is baked; sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve when partly cooled. The currants and citron may be omitted and the cakes served with bar-le-duc, or other choice preserve. They are also good with stewed primes — sliced and sugared oranges, etc. CHEESE CREAM The yolks of 3 eggs. | cup or more of grated cheese, Parme- i teaspoonful of salt. * san preferred, i teaspoonful of paprika. i level teaspoonful of gelatine. i teaspoonful of mustard. 4 tablespoonfuls of cold water. I cup of scalded milk. i cup of double cream. Mix the salt, pepper, and mustard with the beaten eggs and pour on slowly the hot milk; return to the fire and cook as a "boiled" custard; add the softened gelatine and strain over the cheese; stir over hot water, until the cheese is melted, then stir in ice water, until the mixture begins to stiffen; fold in the cream beaten solid and set aside in a mould to become firm. When ready to serve, cut in slices and stamp out figures with fanciful-shaped cutters. Serve on rounds of brown or graham bread; sprinkle the top with paprika. Use also in making hors d'oeuvre. NEUFCHATEL CHEESE MOULDED WITH NUTS Beat sifted Neufchatel, cream or cottage cheese (one cup) a tablespoonful of melted butter, one fourth cup of sweet cream, a dash of red pepper, and a cup of blanched and chopped English walnuts, pecan nuts, chopped olives or pimentoes until well mixed. Use a piece of confectioner's paper to handle and press the mixture into an oblong shape. Serve with vegetable saJad — celery, to- naato or lettuce preferred — and crackers. One fourth cup of tiny, green string beans, a pimento and five olives, the beans and the pimento cut in tiny cubes and the olives chopped, are par- ticularly good combined with cheese. Ser/e with lettuce dressed with French dressing. CHEESE IN SHELLS 347 CHEESE SOUFFLE 2 tablespooiiuls of butter. | cup of tomato pur€e. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. i cup, or 4 ounces of grated cheese. i teaspoonful, each, of salt, soda 3 eggs, and paprika. Make a sauce of the butter, flour, soda, seasoning, and purde; let boil five minutes, then add the grated cheese and the yolks of the eggs, and lastly fold in the whites of the eggs beaten dry. Bake in a buttered souffle dish until well puffed and delicately colored, about twenty-five minutes. Let the dish stand in hot water. Serve as soon as removed from the oven. This dish is more Eon- veniently served when it is baked in individual china dishes or in paper cases. The latter should be oiled and dried in the oven, before filling. In individual portions ten to fifteen minutes' bak- ing is needed. (SeeSouffles, page 501.) BREAD AND CHEESE CROUTONS Cut bread in roimds, diamonds, or other shapes, and half an inch thick; spread lightly with butter, then cover with a very fine shaving of American factory cheese, dust with paprika and set in the oven just long enough to melt die cheese. The cheese should not be brown. The bread may be sauted in butter, before being covered with cheese, if preferred. CHEESE TIMBALES 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. i pound of grated cheese. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Salt and paprika, ^ cup of cream. 3 whole eggs and 4 yolks of eggs. J cup of milk. J cup of white stock. Make a sauce of the butter, flour and liquid; in this melt the cheese, and add the seasoning and the eggs beaten until well mixed . Bake in very small timbale moulds, standing on a folded paper in a pan of hot, not boiling, water. Let cook until the centres are firm. Serve hot with cream or tomato sauce. If desired more firm, use but one fourth a cup of stock. CHEESE IN SHELLS 1 cup of bread cnunbs. i teaspoonful of salt and paprika. About a pint of milk. 3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 2 eggs. t pound of grated cheese. 348 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Mix the butter with the crumbs; add the salt and papriba,_the cheese and the eggs, beaten and mixed with the milk. Turn into buttered scallop shells, cocottes or cups, and bake until the egg is set. Serve at once in the dishes. QNOCCHI A LA ROMAINE (an ITALIAN CHEESE DISh) i cup of cornstarch. i pint of milk. i cup of flour. Yolks of two eggs. J teaspoonful of salt. i cup of butter. i teaspoonful of paprika. i cup of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix the cornstarch, flour, salt, and paprika with milk to pour and stir into the remainder of a pint of milk, scalded in the double boiler; stir constantly, until the mixture thickens, and, occasionally, for twenty minutes, then add the yolks of the eggs, mixed with the creamed butter and half of the cheese; stir until the eggs look cooked and the cheese is melted, then turn into a shallow dish, to form a paste half an inch thick. When cold cut in diamonds, ar- range in a baking dish that may be sent to the table, in two or more layers, with grated cheese between and on the top. Set the dish in the oven to reheat the paste and melt the cheese. Serve as a luncheon or supper dish or as a cheese course, either with or without celery, or with green vegetable salad. CHEESE RINGS Let one fourth a cup of butter and half a cup of rich, creamy milk heat to the boiling point, then stir in three fourths a cup of flour, sifted with half a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of cayenne or pap- rika, stir and cook until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan, then turn into a cold dish and beat into it two oimces (half a cup) of grated cheese and two eggs, one at a time. With a pastry bag and small plain tube shape the dough, on oiled paper, in the form of rings; brush these with beaten egg and fry in hot fat three or four minutes. Sprinkle with grated cheese and serve hot with a green salad. They are also good cold. Parmesan cheese is preferable, but any cheese may be used. The paper should be of such size as will lie on the top of the fat. When the rings float from the paper, remove it, turn the rings and fry as doughnuts. CHEESE CROQUETTES 349 CHEESE BALLS if a.ps oE American factory, I teaspoocful of salt. Neufch&tel or cottage cheese. i teaspoonful of paprika. Cracker crumbs. Whites of 3 eggs. Mix together the cheese, salt, and paprika, then add the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. Shape in small balls, roll in sifted cracker crumbs and fry in deep fat to a delicate brown color. The balls will cook in less than one minute. Drain on soft paper at the oven door. Serve on a lace paper, either with celery at the close of dinner, or with a green vegetable salad before the desert. CHEESE STRAWS Roll plain or puff-paste into a rectangular sheet one fourth an inch thick. Sprinkle one half^with grated cheese, Parmesan being preferable; sprinkle also very lightly with paprika or cayenne. Fold the other half of the paste over the cheese and press the edges together; fold again, then pat and roll out as before; then add cheese as at first, folding and rolling out in the same way; add cheese twice more, then, when it is rolled into a sheet, cut into strips or straws and rings. Bake about eight minutes. CHEESE STRAWS, NO. 2 I cup of pastry flour. } teaspoonful of paprika. i teaspoonful of salt i cup of butter. } teaspoonful of baking-powder. ^ to i cup of cheese — cold water. Make as any plain paste, adding the grated cheese with the butter. CHEESE CROQUETTES 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. i cup of American factory cheese i cup of flour. cut in small pieces. J cup of milk, or i cup of grated Parmesan Chicken stock. cheese. Yolks of 2 eggs. i teaspoonful of salt. Paprika. Make a white sauce of the butter, flour, seasoning, and liquid; add the beaten yolks, the grated cheese, and when well mixed stir in the pieces of cheese; turn into a dish to cool. Shape in balls, $y> PRACTICAL OOOBING AND SERVING cylinders or pears, egg-and-bread-crumb and fry in de^ fat to a delicate brown; drain on 3oft paper. Serve with a green vegetable salad or with crackers. WELSH RABBIT I tablespoonful of butter. i cup of cream or ale. } pound of cheese. Salt and paprika. Yolks of two eggs or i whole egg. i teaspoonful of soda. Put the butter into a hot dish, let melt and run over the bottom; add the cheese, grated or cut fine, stir constantly until the cheese is melted, then stir in the yolks of eggs, beaten and diluted with the cream or ale; add also the salt, paprika, and soda. Stir until smooth and creamy, then serve on the untoasted side of bread, toasted but upon one side and disposed in shallow, individual egg dishes. This dish is a favorite for chafing-dish cookery. CHEESE-AND-TOMATO RABBIT I tablespoonful of butter. ^ cup of tomato pui6e. I pound of cheese. } teaspoonful of salt. Yolks of two eggs. I teaspoonful of soda. i teaspoonful of paprika. Prepare as Welsh Rabbit. GOLDEN BUCK Make a plain Welsh rabbit as given in the recipe; add to this half a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce and a few drops of ta- basco sauce. Serve on toast with a poached ^g above the cheese mixture. CHAPTER XIV Batters and Doughs "The chUdren gather wood, and tne fathers kindle the fire, and the women knead their dough to make cakes to the queen of heaven." "Ephraim is a cake not turned." "Make ready quickly three measures of fine meal, knead it, and make cakes upon the hearth." Very early in the history of the world, it seems, grains and other substances, less nutritious, were ground between stones, mixed with water to a dough, and baked upon hot stones or before the fire. An uncooked piece of dough, being left accidentally a sufficient length of time, would, by the natural process of fermentation, give rise to a light dough that might be baked in this condition. In some way Uke this the desirability of providing an article of food that was light and porous — and easily penetrated by the digestive fluids — was probably discovered, and in time, by means of arti- ficial processes, other and less imcertain means of lightening dough were evolved. DEFINITIONS OF BATTERS AND DOUGHS When meal or flour is mixed with liquid to such consistency that it may be beaten, the mixture is called a batter. When the batter is of such consistency that it may be poured from the vessel or spoon in a continuous stream, it is called a pour batter. When the batter is of such thickness that it breaks and drops in pouring, it is a drop batter. When a mixture cannot be beaten (beating is done by cutting down with a spoon or other utensil frpm the top to the bottom of a mixture, and bringing the spoon up to the sur- face, passing over and down again, and thus turning the mixture over and over), but needs be made smooth by tossing and cutting, with a knife, kneading with the hands, or beating with a rollii^ pin, the mixture becomes- a dough. The general proportions of 35i 3S2 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING flour and liquid to produce batter or dough are as follows: Equal measures of flour or meal and water make a pour batter; two measures of flour to one of liquid produce a drop batter, and three measures of flour to one of liquid produce a dough. These proportions are subject to many modifications, owing to combination with other ingredients, as sugar, butter, eggs, etc. Allowance must also be made for the kind of liquid and for the difference in the thickening properties of different kinds and grades of flour or meal. THE LIQHTENINO OF BATTERS AND DOUQHS Batters and doughs are made light by: \ C Leaven. The generation of gas 1 Spontaneous. 1 (Carbon dioxide) / (Decomposition of Staich.) j or j \ Yeast Fermentation. f Artificial. Action of adds on carbonate or alkali: i'. Bicarbonate of soda and muriatic add. 2'. Bicarbonate of soda and cream-of-tartar. 3'. Bicarbonate of soda and add phosphate. 4'. Bicarbonate of soda and acids in lemon juice (citric), sour milk (lactic), or molasses (acetic). The expansion of water in composition. f By heating. The expansion of air incorporated. -J By beaten eggs. I By folding. EXPANSION OF WATER IN COMPOSITION The expansion of water by heat into several hundred times its volume is taken advantage of in making johnny cake (joime or journey cake), which originated with the American Indians. The early settlers in this country learned how to make it from the squaws. The grains of corn were parched in hot ashes, sifted and beaten into powder, then stored in long leathern bags. When food was needed, a few spoonfuls of meal were mixed with snow in winter, with water in summer, and eaten uncooked, or cooked be- fore the open fire. Fifty years ago johnny cake was a common YEAST 353 article of food in New England, but it was made from cornmeal ground at the miller's and baked in the oven. EXPANSION OF AIR INCORPORATED In making gems, as the spoon goes in and out and over the batter in beating, air is carried into the mixture, and the glutinous cell walls of Uie flour confine air; this expandkig when heated (air at 70° expands about three times its volume at the temperature of a hot oven), in connection with the expansion of the water or milk used as liquid as it is changed into steam, makes the gems light. In making puff or plain paste, it is the expansion of cold water used in mixing, and of cold air incorporated by folding, when the paste is placed in the heated oven, that gives lightness to the dough. Lacking heat, the glutinous cell walls do not harden when thus ex- panded, and the desired lightness is lost. We also make use of the glutinous consistency of albumen in eggs in lightening batters and doughs. In this case, too, the greatest care must be exercised in adding the beaten eggs to the mixture, lest the expanded cells be broken, and in baking at such a temperature that the cells do not expand too quickly; and yet there must be sufficient heat to fix or harden the walls. LEAVEN Without doubt the earliest method of lightening batters and doughs was the one noted at the beginning of the chapter, the knowledge of which probably came by accident. Yeast plants always present in the air, settling upon grains that had been crushed between stones and mixed with water, and left in a warm place, would feed upon the sweet substances in composition and thus change them into other substances, one of which, carbon dioxide, would lift up the dough. A piece of this dough added to a piece of fresh dough would Uf t up or leaven the whole. YEAST As other plants than yeast are aJso floating in the air, many of them being inimical to the growth of the yeast germs, great un- certainty would result in the use of natural leaven. After many years of experiment, it was found possible to secure a pure culture of yeast plants, and to store these in such a manner that life lies 354 PRACTICAL COOJSJNG AND SERVING dormajit until the proper conditions for growth are present (leaven or yeast is one of the principal leavening agents of to-day). The process of using leaven and yeast is long; to secure lightness by the expansion of air or water requires much care in mixing and baking, whence other means of securing lightness were sought for by chemists. ARTIFICIAL FERMENTATION Carbonates are compounds from which gas can be set free; the addition of an acid to a compound that sets gas free proves that such compound is a carbonate. That soda is a carbonate may be proved by the addition of several acids, any one of which will set free carbon dioxide. Carbon dioxide may also be evolved from soda simply by heating it, but when soda is used alone in batters and doughs, though lightness is secured, other essentials are lack- ing; the "cake" is yellow, and the unchanged carbonate neutralizes the acid in the digestive fluids, and thus impedes digestion. Sour milk, lemon juice, and molasses, through the lactic, citric, and acetic acids involved in their composition, when used with soda generate carbon dioxide; but the quantity and strength of the acids are variable. Nor is any one of these ingredients such as would be available or suitable at all times and under all circum- stances. The muriatic acid of the chemist seemed at first to be the ideal acid, combined with soda, to set free carbon dioxide, as the residue after fermentation was common salt; but the liberation of the gas was instantaneous when the acid and soda met. So this com- bination was dismissed as impractical. Add phosphates, the resi- due from which are mineral matters, were tried, and are still in use; but finally cream-of-tartar came to be considered the sine qua non, for which the culinary world was seeking to complete the necessary chemical reaction in the process of lightening food. There were several reasons for these conclusions, and these hold good to-day. Cream-of-tartar is a harmless substance, which does not unite chemically with soda until the application of heat, as well as moisture; and the residue (Rochelle salts) is harmless, taken in the quantity used in food, even when a large amount of such food is eaten. There is, however, one objection to the use of soda and cream-of- tartar. The proportion of each must be measured with the greatest CREAM-QF-TARTAR 355 accuracy. Rather more than twice as much of cream-of-tartar as soda, by measure, is called for. If the quantity of soda be too great the caustic unneutralized carbonate will neutralize the acid of the gastric juice and hinder digestion. In this case the yeUow color of the food tells the story, and the food may be avoided; but, on account of this necessary accuracy in measurement, baking-powder has come into general use. BAKING-POWDER The best approved baking-powder is a composition of bicar- bonate of soda and creahi-of-tartar, mixed in such proportion that one exactly neutralizes the other. A small quantity of corn- starch, or flour is added to separate the ingredients. These three ingredients are mixed together by sifting many times (ten or more) so that each little particle of carbonate and acid be surrounded by a thin coating, or film, of starch. There are many grades of soda, cream-of-tartar and flour, and, of course, the best give the best results. BICARBONATE OF SODA Soda is obtained from "cryolite," a native deposit found in the earth, from certain marine plants, and from common salt. At the present time the best soda is obtained from "cryolite" brought from Greenland, about 15,000 tons being annually worked up. Soda is cheap, and this ingredient is rarely, probably never, adul- terated. Bicarbonate of soda, the form used for leavening pur- poses, is produced by charging common soda with carbonic acid gas. CREAM=OF.TARTAR The acid used to set free the carbon dioxide in bicarbonate of soda is a deposit from grape juice found in wine casks. The name "argol"is given to this grape acid, which, when purified, becomes cream-of-tartar. This acid exists naturally in the grape, but, being insoluble in alcohol, it is gradually deposited on the sides of the casks as the sugar of the juice is converted into alcohol by fermentation. The best argol is obtained from the wine-producing countries of southern Europe, that from California, for some unknown condi- tion of soil, climate or culture, being of an inferior grade. The color of argol depends upon the color of the grapes from which the juice is expressed. It varies from grayish white to reddish. 356 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING purple. Argol is first ground, and then purified. This latter process is an expensive one. Nothing is desirable but the pure grape acid; Ume, coloring, and all other impurities found in the argol need be removed; and the purity, hence expense, depends entirely upon the care of the refiners. Below is foimd the proper FORMULA FOR A BAKING-POWDER I pound, 2 ounces of cream-of-tartar. i pound of bicarbonate of soda. i to I pound of cornstarch or fine flour. At first sight one would say, "Why not buy the ingredients of a reliable chemist and mix one's own baking-powder?" This may be done if the product is to be used very soon; still, the ingredients may not have been recently prepared and so be lacking in strength; then, too, the chemist has appliances for drying the ingredients before they are mixed, which does much to preserve their strength. Starch and cream-of-tartar can be most effectually dried out, but soda can be heated only slightly without the loss of gas. In use, baking-powder should always be sifted with the dry ingredients, to prevent, as far as possible, the escape of the gas, imtil the mixture is placed in the oven. In using soda and cream- of-tartar, pulverize and sift the soda before measuring, and then sift both ingredients at least twice with the flour, being careful to separate them with flour before sifting. PROPORTIONS OF ARTIFICIAL LEAVENING AGENTS I teaspoonful of soda to i pint of thick sour milk. I teaspoonful of soda to i cup of molasses, for batters. i teaspoonful of soda to one cup of molasses, for doughs. } teaspoonful of soda to 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice in thick batters for each two cups of flour. I teaspoonful of soda to three and a half teaspoonfuls of cream-of-tartar to one quart of flour, a teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to a cup of flour, in mixtures without eggs. SUGGESTIONS As the add in lemon juice sets free carbon dioxide, in large meas- ure, upon contact with the soda, mixtures in which these agents are employed will not be very light, and tlieir use is restricted to CHEESE BALLS. (See page 349.J CHEESE STRAWS AND RINGS (See pages 348, and 349.) CHEESE CAKES WITH PRESERVED CHERRIES. fSee page 34K.) CHEESE CROQUETTES WITH PAPER AIGRETTES. (See page 349.) CREAMED CELERY AND CHEESE AU GRATIN. (See page 282.) GNOCCHI A LA ROMAINE. (See page 348.) SUGGESTIONS 357 cakes in which a close texture is desirable. Add the lemon juice to the eggs and sugar and sift the soda into the flour. Sour milk, buttermilk or cream with soda are most successfully used in mixtures in which commeal predominates. Such prep- arations are incomparably moister, more tender and delicate, when the leavening gas is thus generated, than when cream-of- tartar, in any form, is used as the generating acid. In wheat-flour mixtures, when pure cream-of-tartar and soda are used, either in bulk or in the form of baking-powder, if the correct proportions be taken and the proper temperatiu-e of the oven be secured, the cooked products will be neither too dry nor too porous. If such be the case, you have reason to suspect the presence of some other ingredient, or, in other words, an adulteration of the lightening agent. Iron utensils are preferable for baking pop-overs, muffins and griddle cakes. These should be hot by the time the mixture is ready. To oil a griddle, press a steel fork into a slice of salt pork or piece of beef fat and with it rub over the surface of the griddle. The griddle is of the right temperature when the underside of the cake browns before the top shows signs of cooking other than the formation of gas bubbles. CHAPTER XV Bread and Bread Making "Bread is the staff of life, but- bread and butter is a gold-headed cane." In every part of the world, from the beginning of recorded time, bread has been a synonym of food. The cry of the starving in India, the mob in France, and the poor in Italy has ever been for bread. The reason for this is obvious, when we consider that very many even of the earlier and cruder forms of bread were made from cereals or com plants, as millet, oats, barley, and rye, and that these . in themselves contain all the elements necessary for the growth and repair of the body, and in very nearly the proportion demanded in an ideal dietary. At the present day, throughout the civilized world, wheat is known to be the grain that contains gluten in pro- portion and quality necessary to the making of the most perfect bread. A loaf of bread at least four thousand years old, a part of which was in such a state of preservation that it was possible to identify barley as the grain from which it was made, was lately found in Egypt. From records and monuments in that ancient land we learn that the grain for bread was broken by pounding, and that it was probably baked between or upon hot stones. The children of Israel ate leavened bread in Egypt, though the Chinese had used leavened bread long years before the time of Moses and the exodus from Egypt. The ancient Greeks cultivated the yeast plant, and in excavations at Pompeii an oven was found containing eighty- one loaves of bread not unlike our own. The older and higher the civilization, the more advanced the art of bread making. Four hundred years ago the American Indian was just in the infancy of the art, and the wild tribes of South Africa to-day have progressed no further. The bread of the ancients was made flat and thin, as thus the heat could better penetrate the heavy, compact dough; and the expression "to break bread" was from tJie actual mode of division. Bordeau notes that our rule of politeness, which exacts that bread «8 WHAT IS GOOD BREAD 359 be broken at table, instead of cutting it, is only the tradition of a very andent custom. Though the art of bread making is of such ancient origin and the opportunity for a general diffusion of knowledge has been so great, good bread is not an article in common use. In cities abroad bread is not baked at home; and in this coimtry, as more and more work is carried on outside the home kitchen, the baking of bread is sure to foUow. At the present time one cannot secure from bakeries bread and rolls made from quite as good materials, or baked and cooled quite as carefully, as it is possible to provide at home. In general, the bread made abroad, on account of the size and shape of the loaf, contains less starch in a crude form than that which we may call tie American loaf. While the foreign loaf is not acceptable to the average American, it probably approaches more nearly the dietetic conditions required by our modem mode of life. Jxist how far the conversion of starch into dextrose, or allied substances, has proceeded in the crusty loaf has not been exactly determined; and, in the bread of the future, chemical pro- cesses may be found by which the excess of starch that ordinary bread contains may be transformed or presented in a form less tax- ing to the digestive organs. The process of makmg bread with yeast is one of the most fas- cinating of studies for the chemist or the cook. And the more the cook knows of the chemistry of bread making, and the greater the skill with which she applies her knowledge to the practical working out of the process, the greater are her chances of securing a perfect loaf. Four of the simplest ingredients in the culinary laboratory enter into the composition of a loaf of bread; yet the changes through which these materials pass before a finished loaf is evolved are the most complicated in all cookery. WHAT IS GOOD BREAD Opinions differ as to just what properties good bread should possess. Some vdsh a moist crumb and tender crust, others a dry crumb and a flinty crust. But there are certain points upon which all agree; namely, bread should be agreeable in smell and taste, while it should be light and porous to be easily penetrated by the digestive fluids. The bubbles of the crumb should be uniform in size and small. The surface should rebound when compressed, and the loaf should keep in good condition several days. 360 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING INGREDIENTS USED IN BREAD The four ingredients that enter into a loaf of bread are flour, yeast, salt, and liquid. Milk or water, or a part of each, may comprise the latter. Bread made with milk is more nutritious, but it dries more quickly than does bread in which water is used. The texture of milk bread, even with slight kneading, is velvety and pleasing. Half milk and half water is quite generaUy used. Water bread, without shortening, carefully manipulated, gives a loaf of nutty flavor, but with tough crust. The French excel in the pro- duction of this bread. Water, with two tablespoonfuls of shorten- ing to the pint, is more generally preferred by American house- keepers. STRUCTURE OF A WHEAT GRAIN 1. Wheat grains consist of an outer covering, largely silica, re- moved before milling. 2. Three layers of bran coats, in the forms of cells, containing mineral matter, gluten, oil, etc. 3. A layer of cells, chiefly gluten and other proteid matter. 4. Centre and largest part of the grain made up of cells, of which starch is the chief content. STARCH AND GLUTEN Mix wheat flour and water to form a dough. Let stand a short time, then wash it on a sieve over a pan of water. Let the water settle; and, when it is poured off, a white mass, which, when dried, is flne as dust, is found in the pan. This is stardi. And the doughy, gray, elastic mass left on the sieve, which may be taken up in the hands and piilled like candy, is gluten. These are the chief constituents of floiur, and the relative proportion of these two substances determines the character of the floiu". Gluten gives a strong, gray flour of slightly bitter taste, which will take up a large quantity of water. Such flour "spends well." Starch gives a more delicate flour of sweet taste, which takes up, relatively, a small quantity of water. The tenacious, elastic gluten is needed m yeast mixtures, to hold the carbon dioxide that lifts up the dough and makes it light. But it is not as desirable in cake and pastry, where tenderness and delicacy are sought for. The relative pro- portion of starch and gluten in grains depends largely upon the soil and the climate in which the grain is grown. Hard spring wheat, MILLING METHODS 361 planted in the spring and harvested in August or early September in Minnesota and in North and South Dakota, is particularly strong in gluten, and contains a minimum quantity of starch. Flour made from such wheat is designated as bread flour. Winter wheat is a softer variety raised in the Middle and Southern States. It is planted in the fall, and harvested in the following June or July. Flour made from this wheat is designated as pastry flour, as it is well adapted to the purpose indicated by the name. WHEN TO USE BREAD AND WHEN PASTRY FLOUR As a general rule, bread flour is indicated in recipes where yeast is used, and pastry flour in all other cases. Less flour to a given quantity of liquid is needed when bread flour is used. For a change, it is occasionally advisable to use pastry flour in bread making. It gives a sweeter tasting loaf. HOW TO DISTINGUISH BREAD AND PASTRY FLOUR Bread flour is granular to the touch. It passes readily through the sieve: a jar will send it through. When mixed into a dough, it takes up a comparatively large quantity of moisture. On the other hand, pastry flour is soft and oily to the touch. Pressed in the hand it keeps its shape, showing the impress of the lines of the hand. It does not pass readfly through the sieve, and it ab- sorbs a comparatively small amount of moisture. MILLING METHODS The old-fashioned way of making flom: was to pulverize the wheat in one operation through mill stones; and then a crude separation of the flour and bran and other dark portions of the wheat berry was made by revolving reels covered with what is known as silk bolting cloth. Natur^y, the separation was imperfect, and much of the brown portion remained in the flour. Modem milling is what is known as a gradual reduction system, whereby the wheat is gradually and carefully reduced. The wheat is nm through six systems of rolls, for the purpose of loosening the middlings. These middlings are then purified by means of sieves and air-suction machines, which remove all the brown portion of the berry. The middUngs are, after purification, reduced to flour. 36a PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING The wheat grain is thoroughly cleaned and scoured before the flour-making process begins. VEAST IN BREAD MAKING Yeast is a collection of living, one-celled organisms that partake of the nature of plant rather tba,n animal life. These organisms may be produced by cultivation. In a proper environment — with necessary warmth, moisture, and complex food to feed upon — these microscopic fimgi bulge a little upon one side. This bulge takes on an oval shape, and soon separates from the parent cell as a distinct organism. Other cells quickly follow from the parent cell and from the new cells or buds; and thus the yeast- plant grows. The little yeast plants or cells are vigorous and tenacious of life, living under most adverse circumstances; but these are killed on exposiire to a temperature of about 212° Fahr. They endure cold much better, as life is simply suspended in a tempera- ture of about 30° Fahr. The most favorable temperature for their growth is between 65° and 75° Fahr. A cake of compressed yeast, one of the best forms in which a housekeeper can secure a supply of yeast, is a collection of yeast plants massed together without the presence of suitable conditions for growth. By the exclusion of air and heat, the plants may be kept for some days alive and in vigorous condition for future growth. In making bread, we soften the cake in liquid to separate the plants, and then stir them into the flour. Salt may be added as a matter of taste. It retards, perhaps, the growth of the plant. The little plants, finding in the starch and ^uten of the flour a complex food which they enjoy, begin to feed and grow or bud; and chemical changes take place. Starch is chang^ to sugar, and sugar to alcohol and carbon (carbonic-acid gas). The gas, in its efforts to escape, expands the tenacious elastic ceU walls of gluten in which it is entangled, and lifts up the dough. If this dough be subjected to heat (212° Fahr. at the cootre), t£e alcohol and carbon dioxide wiU be driven off, the cell walls fixed, and sweet bread produced. But, if the dough be left to itself, this change, which is called alcoholic fermentation, will be followed by another change. The alcohol breaks up into acetic acid and water; and, if baked, the resultant bread will be soiur. A good yeast cake is of a light even color. There is an absence of dark streaks through it. PROPORTIONS OF INGREDIENTS 363 GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MIXING AND BAKING BREAD TIME NEEDED FOR BREAD MAKING Now, the greater the number of yeast plants, the more quickly, other conditions being favorable, mil the bread be lifted up; and, in making bread, we take this fact into consideration. If bread is to be made quickly, two, even three, compressed yeast cakes may be used to a pint of liquid. Thus made, the whole process need not take over three hours. If dough is to be mixed at night and baked with the first fiire in the morning, the quantity of yeast may be reduced to one third cake to a pint of liquid. The longer time of fermentation, as a rule, gives the best flavored bread; for the by-products of fermentation, which give a peculiar and characteristic sweetness to the loaf, are generated during the longer process. In using a large quantity of yeast, we may improve the flavor of the bread, at the expense of time, by "cutting down" the dough once or twice after it has risen to double its bulk. As the dough quickly rises again, after a part of the gas has been let out, iJiis does not lengthen the process to any considerable extent. Still, except during extreme heat, when souring may be anticipated, the method fulfils the requirements of occasional rather than general practice. PROPORTIONS OF THE INGREDIENTS The quantity of liquid rather than the quantity of flour deter- mines the size of the loaf. Two cups of liquid will make two loaves of bread of average size; but, whether two, two and one half, or three portions of flour be used to one of liquid, the difference will be one of texture rather than of size. Two cups of liquid will be found a most convenient imit of measurement. With this use from one third cake of compressed yeast to one whole cake or even two or three cakes, accordong to the length of time to be spent in the operation, softened in half a cup of lukewarm liquid. If liquid yeast be used, take half a cup to two cups of liquid, in case the dough is to stand over night. A level teaspoonful of salt, two table- spoonfuls of sugar, if desired, and from two to three pints of flour complete ^e necessary ingredients. 364 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING THE UTENSILS A heavy earthenware bowl holds the heat. It is easily cleaned, and with care will last a lifetime. It should be used for no other purpose. The yellow ware is preferable. For mixing the dough, no utensil is more easily handled than a broad-bladed knife. A knife with wooden handle and blade an inch and a half wide can be pur- chased for fifty cents. A close-fitting tin cover with three or four perforations near the top keeps the dough in the bowl from forming a crust, and furnishes means of escape for gases. The favorite pan in this coimtry for baking bread is about eight inches long, four inches wide, and three inches deep: two of these are required for baking bread made with two cups of liquid. Russia iron pans of French make, in which two or more long, round loaves are baked side by sode, are occasionally used. Cylindrical pans with covers are seen on the market; but bread is more wholesome when baked in an open pan. KNEADINQ THE DOUGH When all the flour that is to be used has been added, and the ingredients have been thoroughly mixed, scrape the dough from the bowl on to a moulding board lightly dredged with flour. Toss with the knife. Then with finger tips lightly floured bring forward the back of the dough, without pressing the fingers into it. Let the ball of the hand, just above the wrist, meet the dough; press down upon it, and move it backward; then the tips again bring forward the back of the dough, the ball of the hand meets it, and repeats the first process; and so a new portion of dough is brought in contact with the hand at each downward pressure. Occasionjdly turn the dough halfway round, to keep it in a roundish mass; con- tinue this kneading process until the mass of sticky paste is a smooth, elastic, fine, and even-grained ball of dough. Add but little flour during this process,and keep the crust that is formed by knead- ing intact by keeping the dough in motion, and never allowing the finger tips to penetrate it. llie mass acquires "body" under the manipulation. When elastic and full of minute air bubbles it has been kneaded enough, OBJECT OF KNEADINQ Dough is kneaded the first time to distribute evenly the little yeast plants and other ingredients, to give body to the dough, and SWEDISH ROLLS. (Set pa&e .572.) ■ 1 fE^I^^I I - ^ ^K^ ^^^0^^^^H p ' * b -^ '-■^:' ^^B ■ '4 ^li ^iF^^fe'-^' - ^^ i B Ey^ ,'^1 ^pK^i'^J fb p ^g^P , *~'^', :^gttlk HH n ■■--^^^gl^^^K^ I M ' "'''^'^'''^^i^^Hj^HI^^^^^^^H OATMEAL BISCUIT. (See page 373J BREAD STICK PAN, BREAD STICKS AND SALAD ROLLS. 'See paKe-! 37i and 372.) BISMARK RINGS $ I^B^Kf^T^^^ m-A i?:,v»^«.5|£|^%. ^ydHfe^^. HOT CROSS BUNS SWEDISH TEA RING, READY TO SERVE RAISING BREAD 365 bring out the elasticity of the gluten, and to make the mixture smooth. The second kneading is to break up the large cavities caused by gas bubbles, and to make the texture unform and fine. The length of time required for the first kneading depends some- what upon the quantity of fiour and shortening that is to be in- corporated into the dough. The stiffer the dough and the richer the mixture the longer tne time required to make it smooth and elastic. From fifteen to thirty minutes are required. The second kneading should be only of such length as is needed to put the dough into the proper shape for baking. TEMPERATURE AND TIME FOR RAISING BREAD As bacilli inimical to the proper growth of the yeast plants may be introduced into the dough in the milk or water, it is advisable to scald the milk or boil the water, and then cool to a temperature not over 100° Fahr., before adding the yeast. While this may not kill bacilli present in the liquid, it retards their growth for the time being, and leaves the yeast plant in possession of the field. The taste and texture of bread are largely dependent upon the time ^ven for rising. If the flavor and other characteristics associated with home-made bread be desired, they can be best secured by long, slow rising at a temperature a little below that of the living room, or between 55° and 60° Fahr. In winter, bread made with one third yeast cake to a pint of liquid, and set at 8 p. m., may be left stand- mg in a room, that in the course of an hour or two drops to the temperature given above, until seven in the morning. While, all things considered, a temperature of 68° Fahr. is prob- ably the most favorable for bread making, the operation may be hastened by setting the bowl of dough in a pan of water that is kept just below 90° Fahr. When the dough has risen to about double its original size, it should be "cut down" — cut and worked with a knife — to break up the bubbles of gas and retard the fermentation. The "cutting down" process may be repeated several times, to the improvement of the bread, if the rising be not continued too long at any one time. If the fermentation be allowed to proceed too long, the glutinous cell walls holding the gas become weakened, the dough loses its puffy, rounded appearance and flattens or "caves in," showing that the alcoholic fermentation has passed into the acetic. The bread will be sour. Often dough that does not reach this condition is subjected to fermentation too long; and too much of the goodness of the flour — probably of the gluten — is con- 366 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING suined by the yeast plants, and a dry, tasteless, chippy bread re- sults. This is particularly the case with bread made of entire wheat flour. As a general rule, dough made with one cake of com- pressed yeast to a pint of liquid wiU double in bulk in three hours. About one hour is required for the second rising, after the dough is in the pans, and a fifth hovu* for baking. SHAPING THE DOUQH Knead the dough slightly, and divide it into the requisite number of pieces. When a round is desired, shape this with the hands and fingers, by folding over and patting, imtil no wrinkles are to be seen. If the dough was properly moulded in the first place, it will not stick to the fingers now. If it should stick, a little butter, not flour, is the remedy. If the dough is to be given a long, oval shape, the moulding board is needed. When doubled in bulk, the loaves are ready to bake. THE BAKING Yeast bread is baked to kill the ferment — lest fermentation go on in the stomach — to drive off alcohol, stiffen the glutinous wallsj cook the starch, and form a pleasant tasting crust. The yeast plant is killed at a temperature of 212° Fahr. To raise the temperatiure at the centre of the ordinary loaf to this point requires nearly an hour's cooking in an oven heated, when the bread is put in, to about 400° Fahr. — that is, in a fast oven. Where the temperature of the oven is gauged by a "heat indicator," the index is just past the central mark, or twelve o'clock. The loaves in sudi an oven will rise a little, crust over, and brown slightly, in spots, during the first fifteen minutes. Biscuits and rolls require a hot oven, and will bake in from twenty minutes to half an hour. A thick loaf of bread baked in the early morning is considered in good condition for eating by night; but it will be in better condition the next morning. Thin biscuits, if thoroughly baked, are not as objectionable hot as slices from a thick loaf. Still, when thoroughly masticated, the digestibility of fresh (not hot) and stale bread is about the same. CARE OF BREAD AFTER BAKING Remove the bread at once from the tins and let cool in fresh air, uncovered. Store, when fully cold, in a tightly covered stone >Hr. MILK BREAD 367 ; should be washed, scalded, dried and aired at least once a k. Never put cut slices into the jar, but keep this receptacle from crumbs. Never put a cloth into the jar with the bread. THE SPONGE sponge, in bread making, is a mixture of flour with liquid and 5t. It is usually made thin, and in consequence the ferment I very quickly. A sponge is advisable for biscuits and all yeast )arations where much shortening is to be used, as it retards the ig. After fermentation has been established in the sponge, shortening may be added with the rest of the floiur; and the lie wiU quickly become light. POTATO YEAST quarts of boiling water. | cup of salt. . or 5 large potatoes. f cup of granulated sugar. X pint of yeast. 'are, grate, and cook the potatoes in the boiling water. Let id in cold water, then stir as they are grated into the boiling :er, to keep the yeast light-colored; let cook about ten minutes ;r all the potato is grated, then stir in the salt and sugar and ;n cooled to about 68° Fahr. stir in the yeast. Let stand in a iperature of 68° Fahr. twenty-four hours, stirring as it becomes it and frothy. Store in fruit jars, tightly closed. Fill the jars E full only. Use half a cup of yeast to a pint of liquid and mix light or early morning. RECIPES FOR BREAD WITH YEAST MILK BREAD t cups of scalded milk. i teaspoonful of salt. ! tablespoonfuls of shortening. i to 3 whole yeast cakes. ! tablespoonfuls of sugar. } cup of lukewarm water. 6 or more cups of flour. 'our the milk over the shortening, sugar, and salt in the bowl; an cooled to a lukewarm temperature add the yeast, softened I mixed with the lukewarm water, and stir in the flour; follow directions given under "kneading." Wash dry and butter 368 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING the bowls, put in the dough and set aside covered. Finish accord- ing to directions previously given. FRENCH BREAD. (ADAPTED FROM RECIPE B^' PROFESSOR BLOT) 1 cake of compressed yeast. 2 cups of boiled water, cooled. J cup of boiled water, cooled. i teaspoonful of salt. f cup of flour. S to 6 cups of flour. Soften the yeast in the one fourth cup of water, and stir in the three fourths cup of flour, knead the little ball of dough until smooth and elastic. Make two cuts across the top of the dough, at right angles to each other, quarter of an inch deep. Set the ball in a bowl containing the rest of the water. When the ball floats — ^a light puffy mass — add the other ingredients and mix to a dough. Elnead imtil smooth and elastic, fifteen or twenty minutes. Cover the dough, and set it aside in a temperature of about 70° Fahr., until it has doubled in bulk. The dough may be baked in any kind of a pan; but, to secure the crusty French loaf, a Russia iron pan, giving long, narrow loaves, is desirable. For one of these pans di- vide the dough into two equal pieces. Roll, and stretch them imder the hands, on the board, until they are as long as the pan. Have a round stidj (like a curtain roller) Ughtly floured. Press this down through the centre lengthwise of the loaf, and roll it back and forth, to maJce a furrow. French bread is concave rather than convex on the top, but this shaping may be omitted. Cover and let stand to become light. Cut mree or four slantwise cuts in the top of the bread, five or six inches apart. Bake about forty minutes. When nearly baked, brush over the surface with the beaten white of an egg, and return to the oven. Repeat the glazing, if desired. ENTIRE WHEAT OR QRAHAM BREAD 2 cups of scalded milk. i to 3 whole yeast cakes. 3 tableepoonfuls of shortening. i cup of lukewarm water. i cup of sugar. 2 cups of white flour. About 4 cups of entire wheat flour. Proceed as for the ordinary white loaf, mixing stiff and kneading quite as long. Molasses instead of sugar may be used for sweeten- ing, or omit half the sugar. FIVE-HOUR BREAD 369 RYE BREAD 2 cups of scalded milk. ^ to 3 whole yeast cakes. 1 teaspoonful of salt. J cup of lukewarm water. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. About 4 cups of rye flour. 2 tablespoonfuls of shortening. Enough wheat flour for kneading. Make as wheat bread, using entire wheat flour for kneading. KUMMEL BROD (CARAWAY-SEED BREAD) 1 cup of scalded milk. i yeast cake. i cup of butter. J cup of lukewarm water. } cup of sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls of caraway seeds, i tablespoonful of salt. About 4 cups of rye flour. Wheat flour for kneading. Knead fully half an hour. When risen to double in bulk, shape into a long roll and bake in a French pan. Serve, either warm or cold, in the form of sandwiches, for five o'clock teas. SWEDISH BREAD 2 cups of boiling water. i cake of compressed yeast. 1 cup of commeal. 3 tablespoonfuls of lukewarm water. 2 tablespoonfuls of shortening. f cup of molasses. I teaspoonful of salt. Wheat flour to knead. Pour the boiling water over the commeal, shortening and salt and mix thoroughly. When the mixture is cooled to a lukewarm temperature, add the yeast mixed into the lukewarm water, the molasses and flour. Knead imtil elastic, cover closely and let stand in a temperature of about 70° Fahr. imtil doubled in bulk. Shape into two loaves, and when again light bake one hour. FIVE-HOUR BREAD 1 pint of scalded milk or i teaspoonful of salt. boiled water. 1 cake of compressed yeast. i tablespoonfuls of butter, cottolene, } cup of lukewarm liquid, lard, or other shortening. Floiu: to knead. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. (6 to 8 cups.) Add the shortening, sugar, and salt to the hot milk. When lukewarm add the yeast, soitened in the half cup of liquid, and flour 370 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING to knead. The dough will be light in about three hours, then shape into loaves. They will become light in about one hour; bake the fifth hour. GLUTEN BREAD 3 cups of milk or water. 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. I cake of compressed yeast. § teaspoonful of salt. About 3 pints of gluten flour. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, if agree- 1 egg. able. Make a sponge, having the milk or water lukewarm, with the liquid, yeast and a pint of flour. When light add the salt, butter, sugar, if used, the beaten egg and gluten flour to knead. Knead until smooth and elastic. Shape into loaves. Bake about one hour. ENGLISH SAFFRON LOAF Make a sponge of two cups of milk, a cake of compressed yeast, softened in a scant half cup of lukewarm water, three or four table- spoonfuls of saffron water and about three cups of flour. When light add half a cup of melted butter, three eggs, three fourths cup of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, an ounce of caraway seeds, a teaspoon- ful, each, of cinnamon and mace, and half a teaspoonful of cloves. Mix thoroughly, then add flour to make a soft dough. Beat the dough for fifteen minutes and turn into round cake pans. When light bake about an hour. Saffron cakes or loaves are said to be wholesome and palatable. Saffron is a stimulant and is thought to aid digestion. To make saffron water, steep the leaves in boiling water for a few minutes, then drain off the water. Serve with cocoa or coffee. PARKER HOUSE ROLLS 2 cups of scalded milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. I yeast cake. i teaspoonful of salt. i cup of lukewarm water. J cup of butter. Flour. Make a sponge of the milk, scalded and cooled, the yeast cake, softened in the lukewarm water, and about three cups of flour; beat thoroughly, cover, and set aside until light; then add the sugar, salt, melted butter and flour to knead. Knead about twenty min- utes; let rise until double in bulk. Gently turn on to a lightly BREAD STICKS 371 floured board, upper side down, roll into a sheet half an inch thick, cut into rounds, brush over one half of each round with melted butter and fold the other half over the buttered half. Set close together in a buttered pan. When doubled in bulk, bake about half an hour; glaze just before taking from oven. CRESCENTS Prepare a Parker House roll mixture, adding flour to make a very stiff dough; when light roll out in a sheet one eighth an inch in thickness and cut into strips about seven inches wide; cut these into sharp-pointed triangles, then, commencing at the base, roll them up, bring the ends toward each other, keeping the point in the middle of the roll to give the shape of a crescent. Place on baking tins some distance apart, when light brush the tops with warm water and bake from fifteen to twenty minutes; then brush over with yolk of egg beaten with two tablespoonf uls of milk, and return to the oven to brown. SALAD OR LUNCHEON ROLLS Use the formula for Parker House rolls, increasing the quantity of butter somewhat and adding the whites of two stfe-beaten eggs. Shape into balls and let rise until light and puffy, then make a deep crease in the middle of each biscuit with the floured handle of a small wooden spoon; brush the crease with melted butter and press the edges together. Place the biscuits close together in a buttered pan, cover, let rise a little and bake twelve to fifteen minutes in a hot oven. BREAD STICKS I cup of scalded milk. I teaspoonful of salt. I cake of compressed yeast. White of an egg. i cup of lukewarm water. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. I tablespoonful of sugar. Flour. Make a sponge of the milk, yeast and flour; when light add the other ingredients, the white of egg beaten until light; when ready to shape, form into small balls, then roll (without flour) on the board with the hands, until strips, uniform in size and in shape of a thick lead pencil, are formed. Set to rise in a pan designed for the purpose, leaving them full or half length, as desired. Before rolling, wait until the balls (closely covered) are very light. 372 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BRAIDS Roll the sticks to the desired length, then braid them in three or four strands, having the braids wider in the centre than at the ends. SWEDISH ROLLS (SPICED CURRANT) t pint of scalded milk. | cup of sugar. I cake of compressed yeast. i teaspoonful of salt. § cup of lukewarm water. Flour to knead. 3 eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 1 cup of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon. 1 cup of currants. Make a sponge and prepare the dough as in all biscuit mixtures made with yeast. When ready to shape, roll into a sheet about one fourth an inch thick, brush over with butter, dredge with the cinnamon and sugar and sprinkle with the currants; roll up like a jelly roll, cut into roimds and set on end, side by side, in a pan; when light bake about half an hour; a little longer time is needed than for ordinary biscuit of the same size. Wien baked, brush over the tops with yolk of egg diluted with milk, or with sugar dissolved in milk, and return to the oven to brown. GERMAN COFFEE CAKE. (MRS. DE BARRY) 2 cups of scalded milk. i cup of water. t cake of compressed yeast. Juice and grated rind of one lemon. i cup of lukewarm wat«r. i teaspoonful of salt. 4 eggs. Flour. I cup of melted butter Blanched almonds. Soften the yeast in the water and add to the cooled milk with enough flour to make a batter. When light and spongy add the eggs, beaten without separating, the butter, lemon juice, salt, and flour to make a soft dough that may be Imeaded. Knead until elastic, then set aside until light. When light roll out in a sheet an inch thick and fit into pans. When again light brush over the top with white of egg and sprinkle with blanched almonds, fine chopped. Bake about half an hour. Reheat by letting stand a Uv moments in a hot oven. Serve with coffee or chocolate. OATMEAL BISCUITS 373 GERMAN COFFEE CAKE 1 cup of scalded milk. i cup of sugar. 3 cakes of comi^ressed yeast i teaspoonf ul of salt, i cup of water. i egg. Flour for a sponge. Grating of lemon rind. i cup of melted butter. Flour. Make a sponge with the milk, yeast softened in the water, and flour; when light add the other ingredients and flour to make a very stiff batter; beat thoroughly; when light again spread in a buttered dripping pan, cover, and let rise. Wien ready for the oven, brush over with beaten egg and dust thickly with sugar and cinnamon, mixed. Bake in a hot oven. ZWEIBACK. (BERLINER FRAU) 2 cups of scalded and cooled milk Flour for a sponge (nearly 3 cups). or water, or half of each. 5 cup of butter. I cake of compressed yeast. | cup of sugar. J cup of lukewarm water. 3 eggs. I teaspoonful of salt. Floiu: as for bread. Shape into long narrow loaves and bake about fifty minutes. When cold cut into slices about half an inch thick and brown in the oven or dry in a slow oven without browning. EASTER OR HOT CROSS BUNS Use the recipe for Zweiback and either white or entire wheat flour. When the dough is ready for shaping, form into balls, place these on a baking sheet, some distance apart, smooth side up; cover and let rise. When ready for the oven score the buns, in form of a cross, and bake in a hot oven; brush over the tops with the yolk of an egg, diluted with one fourth cup of milk in which one fourth tablespoonful of sugar has been dissolved; dust the cross thickly with cinnamon and return to the oven for a few moments. Or, after baking, pipe a frosting cross on each bun. OATMEAL BISCUITS 3 cups of hot milk. i yeast cake. 1 cup of uncooked oatmeal. J cup of lukewarm, water 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. About 2 cups, each, of white and I teaspoonful of salt. entire wheat flour. i cup of sugar or molasses. 374 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Stir the oatmeal into the scalded milk, let stand five minutes, then add the butter, salt, and sweetening; when liikewarm add the yeast cake, softened in the lukewarm water, and the flour; beat very thoroughly and set to rise; when light beat a second time and drop from a spoon into very small timbale moulds. Half fill the moulds. Bake in a hot oven, when the dough fills the moulds. SALLY LUNN. (MRS. PETERSON, VIRGINIA) I cup of scalded milk. i teaspoonful of salt. I cup of boiled water. 4 eggs, well beaten. i cake of compressed yeast. i cup of butter mixed with lard o* J cup of lukewarm water. cottolene. 3 cups of flour. I quart of flour. At eleven o'clock a. m. make a sponge of the milk, water, yeast and three cups of flour. When light, at about half-past one, add the eggs, shortening, salt, and the flour; beat hard and turn into the pans in which it is to be baked. Bake for tea. PULLED BREAD Remove bread from the oven before it is quite baked — that is, reduce the ordioary time of baking ten or fifteen minutes. Grate off a thin layer of brown from the outside, as when making "rasped" rolls, then with the hands pull the loaf apart and into pieces half the size of the hand and less than an inch thick; return to the oven, or the warming oven, in a dripping pan and let cook or dry xmtil colored slightly. Serve at once or set aside and reheat before serving. PULLED BREAD, NO. 2 Use a long loaf of French bread, or home-made bread, kneaded in such a manner that the grain of the bread will be lengthwise of the loaf. Bake the loaf thoroughly, and when cool enough to handle remove the crusts. Gash the loaf at ends and pull apart into halves, pulling from the outside toward the centre. Gash the halves and separate into quarters. Repeat the process until the pieces are tiie size of a large bread stick. Place on a rack in a pan and dry out the moisture in a slow oven; then brown to a delicate color. Tvcep in a dry place and reheat before serving. The bread should snao when broken. SWEDISH TEA RING 375 RASPED ROLLS Use a Parker House or other xinsweetened roll mixture; shape into balls about the size of an ordinary Parker House roll. Set some distance apart on a buttered tin, and when light bake until the whole surface is of an uniform brown color. Grate off a very thin layer from the outside of the crust in a rasping machine. When only a few are to be prepared an ordinary lemon grater may be used, great care being taken to remove the outer layer of crust evenly. SWEDISH TEA RING Soften a cake of compressed yeast in one fourth cup of scalded- and-cooled milk; mix and add to one cup of milk, scalded and cooled to a lukewarm temperature. Stir in enough flour to make a batter; beat imtil smooth, then cover and set aside to become light. Add one whole egg and a yolk, or three yolks of eggs, one fourth cup of sugar, half a teaspoonf ul of salt, and flour to make a dough that may be kneaded. Knead vmtil smooth and elastic. Cover and set aside (out of draughts) to become doubled in bulk. Without cutting the dough down, divide into two pieces of same size. Set one of these upside down (crusty side down) on a board, pat and roll into a rectangular sheet less than half an inch thick ; brush over with butter, sprinkle with sultana raisins and pecan nuts, or filberts, broken in pieces. Use from a half to a full cup of fruit and nuts; roll up like ajelly roll; lift the roll to a baking pan and bring the ends together to form a ring; fasten the ends secure and in such a careful manner as will conceal the joining. With scissors cut through the ring from the edge nearly to the centre, at each side, entirely roimd the ring; cut a little on the slant and turn each division with the scissors or fingers, to show the layers of dough and fruit, etc. That is, cut down through the roll with the scissors and with them turn the cut side of the dough upward. When again light brush the dough with beaten yolk of egg, mijced with milk, and dredge with sliced nuts. Bake about half an hour. ENGLISH MUFFINS Soften a yeast cake in half a cup of lukewarm water. Add this to a cup of scalded-and-coo|ed milk, into which two tablespooiif uls of butter has been melted. Add also half a teaspoonful of salt and one cup and a half of sifted bread flour. Beat the above mixture 376 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING until it is very smooth. Then cover, and set to rise. When the sponge is light, beat into it about two cups, or two and one fourth cups, of flour, continuing the beating some few minutes (eight or ten), to make a tough batter. Cover, and let stand vmtil again light. The mixture is now ready to use, or it may be cut down, covered, and set into the refrigerator until morning. When ready to bake, cut the dough into twenty-four pieces. ELnead these with buttered fingers or on a lightly floured board (the dough is rather soft). Then pat them to the size of the rings. Have the board well floured, and the muffin rings well buttered. Put the rings on the board and the dough in the rings, and cover close with a pan or cloth. When the dough a little more than half fills the rings, remove the rings and dough with a spatula to a well-heated and buttered griddle. Keep the griddle of uniform heat, and, when the muffins are baked on one side, turn muffins and rings, and bake the other side. When the muffins are baked, cut through the crust, then tear apart with the fingers (as a cracker is split), and toast the halves over a bed of coals. Spread the rough side with butter as soon as toasted and serve at once. The muffin rings used for this recipe were two and three fourths inches in diameter. Rings of a larger size may be used. Toasted muffins are served with mar- marlade and tea as a light lunch, or with a green vegetable salad and cheese as a salad course. TOAST When toast is properly made the moisture in the bread is slowly dried out, and then the outside of the slice is changed by stronger heat to a golden brown. This requires constant attention; the bread needs be turned constantly, lest it brown before the drying out is completed. This process changes the starch to dextrose, and thtis continues, outside the stomach, the digestion of the starch begun in the first cooking of the bread. A bed of coals, a hinged toaster, and a slice of stale bread would seem to be the sine qua non for this operation; but a well-toasted slice of bread is not the im- possibility that the ordinary result would indicate when gas and oil stoves are used for this purpose. When a gas range is used, the toaster needs be held slightly above the hot plate set over the flame, or else under the flame in the lower oven. Cut the bread for toast in even slices one fourth an inch thick, these may be toasted as cut, but they look better when the slices are trimmed to be uniform in shape and size. Prepare and serve TOMATO TOAST NO. 2 377 a few slices at once and when needed. Send to the table in a hot toast rack, or, if a plate be used, keep the slices separate and thus crisp. Toast used for meat in sauces, poached eggs, etc., is usually dipped quickly into boiling salted water, then spread with soft- ened or creamed butter. When used under game, it is moistened with the drippings from the baking pan and spread with the liver of the game mashed fine and seasoned. For serving as dry toast, pleasing effects are secured by changes in the toaster. Toasters with lengthwise wires and those with lengthwise and crosswise wires give different results. MILK TOAST Cut four slices of bread half an inch thick and toast as above dip the edges of each slice into boiling salted water, arrange on a serving dish and pour over them one cup of white sauce made with milk. Or the slices, one at a time, may be put in the dish of sauce, and, when the sauce has been dipped over them, transferred to the serving dish. TOMATO TOAST Prepare four slices of milk toast. Remove the skin from two ' tomatoes and cut in halves ; dip in melted butter, then in fine cracker or bread crumbs, sprinkle with salt and broil until the tomato is softened and the crmnbs browned. Serve half a tomato on each slice of toast. TOMATO TOAST, NO. 2 Prepare as milk toast, using half a cup, each, of tomato pulp and milk in the sauce. Grated cheese may be added, if desired. CREAM TOAST Prepare four slices of toast; dust with salt and poiu- over one cup and a half of cream that has been kept heated to about 160° Fahr. fifteen minutes or longer. CREAM TOAST WITH CHEESE Sprinkle hot toasted bread with grated cheese, and set in the oven ' until the cheese melts; pour over hot cream, or white sauce made with milk, and serve at once. A beaten egg may be added to the cream or to the sauce. 378 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING RECIPES FOR BREAD WITH OTHER LEAVENING AGENTS THAN YEAST JOHNNY-CAKE Stir one pint of scalded milk or water, or half of each, into one cup of yellow or white cornmeal, to which a teaspoonful of salt has been added. Bake in a shallow pan. JOHNNY-CAKE, NO. 2 Into one pint of meal and one teaspoonful of salt stir boiling water to make a thick drop batter; thin to a thick poiu: batter with cold milk; drop by tablespoonfuls on to a hot buttered frying- pan and bake as griddle cakes. POPOVERS. (ANNIE C. QROVER) Beat three eggs until very light without separating; add, alter- nately, sifted flour and milk — a little at a time — until a pint of each has been used; beat thoroughly with the egg-beater. Put one f«urth teaspoonful of butter into each hot cup, and fill them two thirds their height with the batter. Bake between forty and fifty minutes in a rather hot oven; use for a change half entire wheat flour. MARYLAND BEATEN BISCUIT. ("ROSIE") With the tips of the fingers work a teaspoonful of butter into each pint of flour, then mix with milk to a dough; beat twenty minutes, then cut into roimds and bake in a moderate oven. BEATEN BISCUIT, NO. 2 Sift together two quarts of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, and two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; with the tips of the fingers work in one fourth cup of butter; then, using one and a half to two cups of ice water, mix to a dough; beat twenty minutes, cut into rounds, prick with a fork, and bake about thirty minutes. BREAKFAST CORN CAKE 379 D VIRGINIA BATTER BREAD. (MRS. PETERSON, WEST VIRGINIA) itir one pint of cornmeal into one quart of scalded milk; stir and k to a "mush." Let cool a little, add a teaspoonful of salt, half lip of sugar, and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and, lastly, 1 in the whites of three eggs/ beaten stiff. Melt two tablespoon- > of shortening in the baking pan, pour in the mixture, and bake ty-five minutes. OLD VIRGINIA BATTER BREAD WITH VARIATIONS Jtir one cup either of rice or grits, previously cooked, and one cup cornmeal into one quart of scalded milk and preceed as above. [IQINIA SPOON CORNBREAD. (MRS. PETERSON, WEST VIRGINIA) J cup of breakfast hominy. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 1 quart of boiling water. 3 eggs. 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. i cup of milk. 2 tablesponfuls of cottolene or lard, i pint of cornmeal. ij teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. A.dd the salt to the water, stir in the hominy and cook thirty nutes; then add the shortening, the eggs beaten and mixed with 5 milk, and, lastly, the cornmeal sifted with the baking-powder, ke in a buttered pudding dish three fourths an hour. Send to s table in the dish in which it is baked. Serve with a spoon, le quantity indicated in the recipe will serve ten people. BREAKFAST CORN CAKE I cup of butter. 2I cups of yellow cornmeal. 1 cup •f sugar. ij cups of white flour. Yolks of three eggs. 2 teaspoonfuls of creamof -tartar. 2 cups of milk. i teaspoonful of goda. Whites of three eggs. Cream the butter and add the sugar gradually, then the egg yolks iten and mixed with the milk, the meal, and flour sifted with the ia and cream-of-tartar, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten f: Bake in a dripping pan about twenty-five minutes. Measure t cream-of-tartar, slightly rounding. 38o PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING STOCKBRIDQE CAKE (MASSACHUSETTS) 4. level teaspoonfuls of yellow i teaspoonf ul of sugar. conmieal. } teaspoonful of salt. ( teaspoonful of butter. 3 eggs. I pint of scalded milk. Stir the meal into the hot milk, add the salt and let cook until the millf thickens a little. Add the butter, sugar, beaten yolks of eggs, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Bake in a deep buttered dish twenty to thirty minutes. Serve from the dish in which it is baked. SPIDER CORN CAKE. (MISS PARLOA) 1 cup of commeal. 1 egg. i cup of white flour. i cup of sweet milk. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. i cup of thick sour milk. i teaspoonful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. i teaspoonful of soda. i cup of sweet milk. Sift together the dry ingredients, stir in the egg beaten and mixed with half a cup of sweet milk, and the sour milk, which should be very thick. Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, turn in the mixture and pour the second half cup of sweet milk over this without stirring. Bake about twenty-five minutes. Cut in tri- angles for serving. This corn cake is some times called custard corn cake, as, when the conditions are favorable, a line of creamy custard is formed within the cake. BOSTON BROWN BREAD I cup of yellow commeal. i teaspoonful of salt. I cup of rye meal. 2 teaspoonfuls of soda. I cup of entire wheat flour. | cup of molasses. I pint of thick sour milk. Pass the dry ingredients together through a sieve and add the molasses and sour milk; beat thoroughly and turn into a buttered mould. Steam three hours. Replenish the steamer with boiling water as needed. Large and small moulds for steaming this bread are purchasable. Baking-powder cans, poimd size, may be used. Four cans are needed for this redpe. Two hours' cooking will suflBce in this case, but longer steaming is no disadvantage. If raisins are used, seed them and add here and there as the batter ENTIRE WHEAT MUFFINS 361 is turned into the mould. To decorate a loaf that is to be sent whole to the table, cut the raisins almost in halves, remove the seeds and press against the buttered sides of the mould, then turn in the mixture. Though it does not give as good bread, water may supply the place of the sour milk; one cup and three fourths will be sufficient. Sour cream as part of the liquid is good. BOSTON BROWN BREAD, NO. 2 Sift rye and yellow commeal, then measure out a cup of each, half a teaspoonful of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of soda; mix with one cup of thick sour milk, half a cup of warm (not hot) water, and half a cup of molasses. Turn into a buttered mould and steam three hours after boiling begins. BOSTON BROWN BREAD. (DR. MARY NICOLA) Sift together one cup, each, of sifted rye and yellow commeal, and half a teaspoonful of salt; add half a cup of molasses, then well- beaten yolks of two eggs and from one to one and a half cups of thin cream; lastly, fold in the whites of two eggs beaten until dry. Turn into a buttered mould and steam three hours; then bake one hour. GENERAL RULE FOR MUFFINS Sift together one cup, each, of meal and flour, or two of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, four or Ave level teaspoonfuls of baking powder and from two tablespoonfuls to half a cup of sugar. Beat an egg until light without separating, add one cup and a fourth of milk, and stir at once into the dry ingredients. Add also from one tablespoonful to one fourth cup of melted butter; beat thoroughly and bake about twenty-five minutes in a hot, well-buttered muffin or gem pan. ENTIRE WHEAT MUFFINS I cup of white flour. 3i teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 1 cup of entire wheat flour. i egg. 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. if cups of milk. i teaspoonful of salt. 3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. CORNMEAL MUFFINS i cup of butter. 2 cups of flour. f cup of sugar. i cup of commeal. 2 eggs. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. I cup of milk, I teaspoonful of salt, 382 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Cream the butter, add the sugar, the eggs beaten without separa- ting and, alternately, the milk and the rest of the dry ingredients sifted together. Bake in a hot, buttered muf6n pan about twenty- five minutes. CORNMEAL PUFFS I cup of milk. 2 eggs. I tablespoonf ul of butter. J cup of sugar. i teaspoonful of salt. J cup of flour. ^ cup of cornmeal (scant). 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Scald the milk, add the butter and salt and stir in the cornmeal (granulated, yellow meal preferred), stir and let thicken a few moments, then cool; add the eggs, beaten without separating, and the sugar, flour and baking-powder sifted together. Turn into a hot, buttered muffin pan and bake fifteen or twenty minutes in a hot oven. The recipe makes one dozen delicious cakes. TWIN MOUNTAIN MUFFINS i cup of butter. i egg. I cup of sugar. J cup of milk. I teaspoonful of salt. 2 cups of floiu:. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then alternately the egg beaten and mixed with the milk and the flour sifted with the baking-powder. Bake in hot roll pan about twenty-five minutes. BLUEBERRY MUFFINS To the mixture for Twin Mountain muffins add at least one cup of blueberries. DATE MUFFINS To the butter and sugar creamed together for Twin Mountain mufiins, add one fourth pound of dates, chopped fine. WHEAT PUFFETS i cup of butter. i cup of mOk. i cup of sugar. 3 cups of flour. I egg and yolk of another. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder Mix in the same manner as Twin Mountain muffins. SWEDISH ROLLS 383 CREAM SCONES 2 cups of flour. J cup of butter. 3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 2 eggs. 1 teaspoonf ul of salt. 5 cup of cream. Mix as baking-powder biscuit, adding the beaten eggs with the cream. Serve with chocolate for luncheon. A diamond shape is attractive for scones. BAKINQ-POWDER BISCUITS 2 cups of flour. 2 tablespoonfuls to } cup of I teaspoonful of salt. shortening. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. About i cup of milk or milk and water. Sift together the dry ingredients; with a knife or the tips of the fingers work in the shortening, then add the milk and mix with knife to a dough. Toss on to a board lightly dredged with flour; knead gently, then pat with the rolling pin into a sheet, cut into rounds and bake about fifteen minutes. SWEDISH ROLLS 1 cups of flour. I egg. i teaspoonful of salt. J cup rich milk (about). 3^ teaspoonfuls of baking- i tablespoonful of sugar, powder. i teaspoonful of cinnamon. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. J cup of currants or sultanas. Mix as cream scones, then roll into a rectangular sheet one fourth an inch thick, longer one way than the other. Spread the sheet with softened butter, then sprinkle with the sugar, cinnamon, and currants or raisins. Roll up as a jelly roll, having the roll long rather than thick. Cut the roll into pieces nearly an inch in thick- ness. Bake on a buttered tin about eighteen minutes. Brush over with a little sugar dissolved in milk and return to the oven to brown. BLUEBERRY TEA CAKE, (EMMA HILL, NEW HAMPSHIRE) i cup of softened butter. 2 cups of flour. 1 cup of sugar. i teaspoonful of soda. i cup of thin cream. 3 teaspoonfuls of cream-of-tartar. 2 eggs beaten without separating. i cup of blueberries. Mix as any butter cake, when baked cut in squares and serve hot with butter for luncheon or tea. 384 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BREAD CRUMB QRIDDLE CAKES 2 cups of bread crumbs. i egg. I pint of thick sour milk. i teaspoonful of soda. 1 cup of flour. I teaspoonful of salt. Soak the crumbs in cold water, wring out the water and stir with the flour into the milk. Let stand over night, then add the egg beaten very light, the salt, the soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of cold water, and more flour or liquid as required. Or better still, soak the crumbs in the sour milk. RICE QRIDDLE CAKES 2 cups of hot boiled rice. | teaspoonful of salt. 3 cups of flour. 2 cups of milk. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 2 eggs. Stir the salt and milk into the hot rice; let cool, then add the yolk of the eggs, well beaten, and the flour sifted with the baking-powder, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten until dry. For rice waffles omit half a cup of the milk and add one fourth cup of melted butter. CORNMEAL AND RICE QRIDDLE CAKES J cup of commeal. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, } cup of flour. I teaspoonful of salt. I cup of cold boiled rice. 2 eggs. I cup of rich milk. Sift together the dry ingredients and stir in the beaten yolks of the eggs mixed with the milk; add the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, at the last. CORNMEAL AND RICE WAFFLES dd to the recipe given above for griddle cakes one fourth a cup of melted butter. BUCKWHEAT QRIDDLE CAKES I cup of buckwheat flour. i tablespoonful of sugar. J teaspoonful of salt. v 2 teaspoonfuls of b^ng-powder. li cups of cold water (nearly). Sift the dry ingredients, add the water, all at once, and mix thoroughly; bake at once on a hot griddle. WAFFLES WITH SOUR MILK 385 FLANNEL CAKES 3i cups of flour. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. i teaspoonftil of salt. 2 cups of sweet milk. 2 eggs. Sift together the flour, salt, and baking-powder; add the yolks of the eggs beaten and mixed with the sweet milk, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten dry. KORNLET GRIDDLE CAKES 2 cups of flour. 3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 2 cups of milk. 2 cups of komlet. 2 eggs. J teaspoonful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Stir the milk with the beaten yolks of the eggs into the komlet; add the flour sifted with the salt and baking-powder, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. WAFFLES WITH SOUR MILK 1} cups of flour. I cup of thick sour milk. i teaspooai\il of salt. 2 eggs. . i teaspoonful of soda. 3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Sift together the flour, salt, and soda; add the yolks of the eggs beaten and mixed with the sour milk, the melted butter, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten dry. Have both sides of the waffle iron hot and well oiled; put a tablespoonful of the mixture in each compartment and let down the top ; when the mixture is baked upon one side, turn the iron to brown the other side. Remove the waffles, when cooked, with a fork. RICH WAFFLES i§ cups of flour. i teaspoonful of salt. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 2 eggs. t cup of sweet thick cream. Add the beaten yolks with the cream to the dry ingredients, then the whites, beaten dry, and bake at once. 386 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING RICE GRIDDLE CAKES Blanch half a cup of rice (page 27); add a teaspoonful of salt and three pints of boiling water and let cook until the rice is tender. Pass through a sieve and set aside for future use. When cold the rice should be in a semi-liquid state. To one cup and a half of rice add half a teaspoonful of salt, the beaten yolks of two eggs, one cup of sifted flour, sifted again with two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and, when well mixed, the whites of two eggs beaten dry. Bake by spoonfuls on a hot griddle. By adding another egg less flour may be used. This is an advantage as, griddle cakes being cooked quickly, the flour is liable to be under cooked. CHAPTER XVI Cake and Cake Making " Cake is acceptable at every kind of luncheon; in fact, cakes were invented for that meal, for five o'clock tea, weddings, and for schoolboys only." — WVVERN Another form of batter or dough is that to which after cooking the term cake is applied. Cakes are made light by the same means as other mixtures of this class and may be considered in the same order as the various forms of bread have been considered. Thudicum speaks of cakes as "forms of sweetened, flavored, and ornamented bread that signalize an evolution of cookery and, like confectionery, or including it, are a measure of culture." There is much of sentiment connected with different varieties of cake, which, apart from any intrinsic merit contained therein, commend them to their sponsors. Probably the cakes of greatest antiquity that are still in use are those that are lightened with yeast, as French brioche, Polish baba, kugel hopfe of the Germans, ratan cake, claimed by both the French and Germans, English Bath buns, and Scotch shortbread. The forms in which these cakes appear are numerous, varying with the object for which they are intended. They are modified, also, by the addition of fruit, nuts, etc. Sometimes, too, they are served with a rich syrup, flavored with wine, in which case they partake more of the character of a pudding. In respect to manipulation, these cakes may be classed under two heads, of which brioche and ratan cake may be taken as representative. Brioche is partly flaky, and rises in layers; while the ratan cake rises like sponge cake, in minute and uniform bubbles. While these cakes are common abroad, especially in the countries to which they owe their origin, outside of our large cities they are not well known to housekeepers in the United States. In the cities there seems to be an increasing demand for this sort of tooth- some dainty, yet, because of the time required in the preparation of all yeast mixtures, many housekeepers do pot attempt the 388 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING production, but depend for supply upon some restaurant of noted excellence. Coffee cakes and zweiback (the last properly called biscuit, because literally twice baked) are the forms of these con- fections most common. Near akin to the ratan cake is the elec- tion, or loaf cake, so common in the early days of our republic. What is sold abroad as biscuit, and here as sponge cake, and cakes made with butter, and known as cup and poimd cakes, are the cakes most in evidence in this country. Of these sponge cake and pound cake, when tradition is followed, are lightened simply by the expansion of air incorporated into eggs by beating. Cup cakes are lightened partly by this method, but principally by the addition of carbon dioxide set free from a carbonate by an acid (see page 352). No article on cakes would be complete without special mention of meringues and petits chou, or cakelets, made of chou paste. Of the first ThudicUm says: "Meringues are classical confec- tions, having a good prospect of immortality, as they caimot easily be improved, spoiled, or altered. They have probably a history of more than a thousand years." Swedish meringues, in whidi starch supplies the place of a part of the egg whites, are a confection that may be classed with sponge cake. Petits chou may be re- garded as the connecting link between cake and pastry; they afford grounds for considering, as do the French, the matter of cakes as a part of the general subject of pastry. These cakes are made of a batter previously boiled, and eggs; the hollow centres, when baked, are filled with sweetened and flavored cream or a custard mixture. PRELIMINARIES Before beginning to mix cake have everything needed at hand, and in such condition that the ingredients can be put together quickly, i.e. 1. Measure or weigh out the exact quantities of the different ingredients to be used. Weight is preferable to measure, especially in the case of butter. 2. Sift the flour before measuring, and sift again with the bak- ing-powder, or soda and cream-of -tartar. 3. Pulverize and sift soda before measuring, and add always to the flour; baking-powder is better sifted, but it may be made light by working with a spoon. 4. To cream butter successfully, it should be at about the tem- perature of the living room (70° Fahr.). If too cold, it may stand TEMPERATURE OF THE OVEN 389 a short time in the mixing bowl after that has been heated ^ghtly with warm water and wiped dry. 5. Have the pans (if the ordinary pan be used) buttered and floured, or lined with paper, and the paper buttered. 6. Break the eggs, one by one, over a cup, separating the whites from yolks when desired. Beat the yolks, but let the whites stand unbeaten in a cool place until the cake is nearly mixed. 7. When fruit is used, cut citron in slices, and then in narrow strips; seed raisins, and cut them in pieces; remove stems from sultanas; wash currants on a coarse sieve, then dry. Fruit to be mixed through a cake may be added to the butter and sugar creamed together, without dredging with flour; in layers, dredge lightly with flour, then, when the cake is mixed, sprinkle in be- tween layers of cake mixture. THE FIRE Electricity, gas, or oil, the heat from all of which may be regu- lated to a nicety, are ideal fuels for cake baking, and in no branch of cooking is such nice adjustment of heat demanded as in the baking of pastry and cake. Even at the present prices, where one is to bake several cakes in the morning (as do consignors to indus- trial unions, etc.), electricity or gas w5l be foimd more economical than coal. If the fuel be wood or coal, the fire should be in such condition that it may be regulated easily and last through the baking without being replenished — i.e., do not attempt to bake a delicate cake mixture with a freshly built coal fire, or with a fire from which the life has largely died out. TEMPERATURE OF THE OVEN Layer cakes and small cakes require a hotter oven than loaf cake. So cakes made with baking-powder call for a higher tem- perature (the carbon dioxide is evolved more quickly) than do cakes made of cream-of-tartar and soda, lemon juice and soda, or molasses and soda. Biscuit, or sponge cake, and poimd cake, will bake at a lower temperature than cake lightened with carbon dioxide. Also, cakes made rich with yolks of eggs require less heat than cakes made with whites of eggs — i.e., an oven should be hotter for an angel cake than for yellow form of sponge cake (yolks of eggs are ridi in fat, hence they bum quickly). Cake containing fruit should be baked in a slow oven. 39° PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING UTENSILS Earthen bowls for mixing the ingredients and beating eggs, a slitted wooden spoon, an ordinary sized sieve for flour, a small sieve for soda, etc., a Dover egg-beater, an egg whisk, pastry bag, and tubes for lady-fingers, Eclairs, and frosting, a small saucepan for boiling sugar, scales, measuring cups, and a variety of baking tins are the most important utensOs needed for work in this branch of the culinary art. MATERIALS Cake has come to be classed with confectionery, and to be eaten only occasionally as a luxury. Thus, in its preparation, the choicest materials are demanded — the best flour and butter, fine granulated sugar, fresh eggs, and choice fruits, nuts and flavorings. The miller, by skilful devices, has evolved a flour especially adapted to produce a light, tender, deHcate cake; when this is not available, the choicest pastry flour should be selected. Bread flour is some- times used, but, as it contains a large quantity, comparatively, of gluten, it gives when used with other leavening agents than yeast, a thick, compact cake. The recipes are written for pastry flour, save in yeast mixtures and it may be necessary to increase or diminish, slightly, the quantity, as the thickening property of flour varies; when bread flour is used with baking-powder, the quantity given should be diminished by two level tablespoonfuls for each cup. Spices should be sifted with the flour. Fine granulated sugar gives the best results, powdered sugar making a close, dry cake, and coarse granulated sugar a very coarse-grained cake. If cream-of-tartar and soda can be accurately measured, these will, in general, give more perfect results than baking-powder. The novice, however, wUl succeed better with the baking-powder. A pound cake is usually improved by the addition of a small quantity of baking-powder. Lemon juice and soda produce a cake of fine, close texture, but these are not adapted to lightening plain cakes. LINING THE PANS A light-weight wrapping paper is best adapted to this purpose. To line a rectangular pan, invert, spread paper upon the bottom, having one side even with one of the longer edges of the bottom, MIXING SPONGE CAKE 391 crease the paper upon the opposite edge, fold in the crease, and, with a sharp knife, cut at the fold. Put in the pan, press down smoothly, letting the ends hang over the ends of the pan. Have ready a dish of clarified butter (melt the butter, and let stand a few moments to "settle," then skim off the top, leaving the salt and sediment in the bottom), and with butter brush spread the unpapered sides of the tin and the paper Avith butter. Patented tins, from which cake can be easily removed, do not need lining. Tins may also be buttered thoroughly, and, just before the cake is placed in them, sprinkled with flour. After sprinkling with flour, invert and give the tin a siiarp rap to remove superfluous flour. FILLING THE PANS That the cake, when baked, may fill the pan, let the uncooked mixture fill two thirds of the space. Always draw the mixture away from the centre toward the comers or edges, and, when baked, other conditions being favorable, the top wiU be level. CAKE WITH YEAST In mixing cakes lightened with yeast observe the same points considered essential to success in bread making. On account of the tendency of sugar, butter, and eggs to retard fermentation, it is advisable to add these either to a light sponge or to a light bread dough. Explicit directions will be given under the several recipes. MIXING SPONGE CAKE As the lightness of sponge cake depends entirely upon the air incorporated into the eggs, of which it is largely composed, and the expansion of this air in baking, great care must be taken first, to secure the incorporation of air in the mixture, and then to reg- ulate the baking so as to retain the same — i.e., never stir a sponge cake mixture; let the heat be such that the enclosed air can be gradually heated, and the cell walls fixed when the air becomes fully expanded. Beat the yolks with an egg beater until very light and thick; add the sugar gradually, beating continuously, then add the flavoring. Beat 3ie whites until stiff and dry; cut and fold part of the whites into the yolks and sugar, then cut and fold in part of the flour; now, in the same order, the remaining whites and flour. If preferred, add the whites, then the flour entire. Bake in m 392 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING unbuttered pan, made for the purpose, and let the cake stand in the inverted pan to cool. Thus suspended, as it were, from the floor of the pan, the cake will be much lighter, than when it is left to hold up its own weight while cooling. MIXING BUTTER CAKES Cream the butter, using an earthen bowl and a wooden spoon to avoid discoloring the ingredients; add the sugar gradually, beat- ing constantly; add yolks of eggs beaten until thick and light colored. If more sugar is to be used than can be creamed easily with the butter, add it to the yolks and with them to the rest of the sugar and butter; then add the liquid, followed by the flour and leavening ingredients sifted together, or add the liquid and flour alternately. Beat the mixture thoroughly to secure a fine grain then beat in, lightly, the ^yhites of the eggs beaten dry. BAKING Cakes are baked in from fifteen minutes to three or four hours. The heat of the oven should be moderate at first, that the mixture, being evenly heated, may rise throughout. If the oven be too hot at first, the cake will crust or brown over before it becomes suffi- ciently light; then the mixture in rising will break through the weakest place (usually the centre) and run over the surface. Mrs. Lincoln gives the following excellent directions for baking cake: "Divide the time required into quarters. During the first quarter the heating is not manifested in appearance except by the rising; dming the second the cake should continue to rise, and begin to brown; then it should become all over a rich golden brown, and, in the last quarter, settle a little, brown in the cracks, and shrink from the pan." Sometimes, especially in the oven of a coal or wood range, it seems necessary to move a cake. In the "first quarter," or early in the second, it may be moved very gently; after this screen with tin baking sheets or paper; for, when a cake has reached its full height, and the cells have not become fixed by the heat, the slight jar of moving breaks down the cells, and no carbon dioxide remains by which other cells may be evolved, and the cake is "heavy." If desired, the oven door may be opened a reasonable number of times, providing it be done without jarring the cake. Cakes, with the exception, perhaps, of pound cake, are fully COFFEE ROLLS FROM BRIOCHE 393 baked when they shrink from the pan, and settle to a level. All cakes are well done, when they make only a slight singing noise, or when the surface rebounds at once on being pressed with the finger. BRIOCHE I pound of flour (4 cups). 8 ounces of buttei (i cup). i teaspoonful of salt. 7 eggs. I tablespoonful of sugar. i cake of compressed yeast. J cup of warm water. Soften the yeast cake in the water and stir in flour to make a stiff dough; knead thoroughly, then drop into a small saucepan of warm water and let stand in a temperature of 70° Fahr. imtil doubled in bulk. Put the rest of the pound of flour into a mixing bowl, add the salt, sugar, the butter, softened, but not melted and four of the eggs. Mix to a paste, then beat thoroughly with the hand, adding eggs, one at a time, until seven in all have been used ; beat vintil smooth. When the ball of sponge is light (in fifteen to thirty minutes), remove from the water with a skimmer, and place in the centre of the egg mixture, fold the egg mixture over the sponge and continuing the folding until the two are thoroughly blended; set aside in a temperature not higher than 70° Fahr. until doubled in bulk. Set aside in the coolest part of the refrigerator over night, after which it may be shaped into a vol-au-vent, rolls, etc. Milk scalded and cooled may replace the water, and two yolks may be used in the place of a whole egg, if four of the eggs be whole eggs. That is, six yolks may replace three of the seven eggs. COFFEE ROLLS FROM BRIOCHE Roll chilled brioche into a sheet about one fourth an inch thick (a marble slab or a magic cover is an aid), brush over very lightly with softened butter, lien fold from the sides toward the centre, so as to make three layers. Cut strips three fourths an inch wide; take each separately, and twist from the ends in opposite direc- tions, and with each form a drcle on the baking sheet, but, instead of having the ends meet, bring them side by side up to the centre of the curve. Arrange the rolls close together in the baking pan, and brush over with yolk of egg, beaten and dfluted with milk; let rise, and bake about twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven; let cool, then brush over with confectioner's sugar, moistened with boUing water to spread. 394 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BRIOCHE BUNS Shape the chilled brioche into balls the size of an egg; put them close together in a buttered pan, and press into the top of each a slice of citron or a seeded raisin. When risen a little more than double in bulk, brush over with sugar dissolved in a little milk and bake about twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Brush over a second time with sugar and milk and sprinkle with loaf sugar pounded into small bits; let stand in the oven imtil well glazed. BRIOCHE WITH HEAD Divide the chilled brioche into two pieces, one a fourth as large as the other. Shape the larger piece into a roimd, and, with the rolling pin, flatten evenly to fit the baking pan (a round sponge- cake pan). Make an open place in the centre, and gash the dough in four or five places on the inner edge, after placing it in the but- tered pan; form the small piece into a ball, then, with the floured hand, roll on the board, giving it the shape of a pear; set the pointed end in the centre of the pan, and brush over the whole with yolk of egg beaten with a little milk; when light bake about fifty minutes in a slow oven; then brush over with sugar dissolved in a little milk. Serve, hot or cold, with coffee for breakfast. Break in portions with the fingers or a silver fork. Or serve hot with a rich syrup flavored with rum or wine, or with a fruit compote, for the sweet dish at luncheon or dinner. BRIOCHES ST. MARK Fill twelve well-buttered individual timbale moulds two thirds full with brioche paste. When risen nearly to fill the moulds, bake in a slow oven. Remove from the moulds, and, when cold, trim uniformly to size of the moulds, and remove the centre of each, leaving a thin shell. Pour over the inside a highly flavored syrup; drain, and fill with whipped cream or a custard filling; brush over the outside with apricot marmalade, and strew with pista- chios and almonds, blanched and chopped fine. Ornament the top of each timbale with a rosette formed of a split cherry siu'rounded by halves of pistachios. Dress these on a plate in a circle, filling the centre of the circle with halved peaches cooked in syrup. Serve with or without whipped cream or a custard sauce. SAVARIN 39S BABA WITH FRUIT I pound of flour (4 cups). i cake of compressed yeast. 10 ounces of butter (li cups). J cup of scalded milk. I tablespoonful of granulated sugar. 8 eggs. J teaspoonful of salt. i cup of fruit. Make a sponge of the yeast, milk and a little of the ilour and set aside to become light. Put the rest of the flour into a mixing bowl, add the butter, softened, but not melted, sugar, salt, and three eggs, and work the whole together until smooth, then add the rest of the eggs, one at a time, and continue beating until all are added and the mixture is very smooth. When the sponge is light, add to the egg mixture, beating (not folding as in brioche) until again smooth; then add the fruit, sultanas or seeded raisins cut in small pieces, citron, candied cherries or other fruit, cut in bits, or cleaned currants. Butter a baba mould and half fill with the mixture. Let rise nearly to the top of the mould, then bake from forty to fifty minutes. Turn from mould, pour on hot rum sauce, baste with the sauce until all is absorbed. For Rum Sauce see page 512. APRICOT SAUCE Boil one cup of sugar, half a cup of water, half a cup of apricot jam, and the juice of one lemon five minutes, strain, and use in place of rum sauce. SAVARIN (MODIFIED BABA) I pound of flour. 5 eggs. I cake of compressed yeast. f cup of scalded milk, i cup of scalded milk. J pound of butter. T teaspoonful of salt. 2 ounces of candied orange peel, I tablespoonful of sugar. cut fine. Make a sponge of the milk, the yeast, and a little flour, and when light add the rest of the milk, two eggs, salt, butter, and the rest of the flour; beat with a perforated spoon until light, then add the rest of the eggs, one at a time, and beat until very smooth ; add the orange peel meanwhile. Butter a fluted cylinder mould, sprinkle with chopped almonds, and half fill with the paste. When the paste has risen to the top of the mould, bake in a moderate oven. When baked turn from the mould, let cool twenty minutes. 396 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING then pour over a rich syrup, flavored to taste, and serve as a luncheon or dinner sweet. BATH BUNS I pound of flour (4 cups). I cake of compressed yeast. J cup of lukewarm milk or water. i cup of sugar. I cup of softened butter. i teaspoonful of salt. Grating of lemon rind. 4 eggs. Soften the yeast in the liquid and add flour to make a sponge; when light add the other ingredients, mix thoroughly, and knead half an hour, adding more flour if needed, but keeping the mixture quite soft. When risen to double in bulk, shape into balls and finish as brioche buns. THANKSQIVING CAKE (COLONIAL) 2 cups of bread dough. 1 cup of butter. 2 cups of sugar, z eggs. i teaspoonful of cloves. § teaspoonful of cinnamon. I teaspoonful of mace, i teaspoonful of nutmeg. I cup of seeded raisins, i cup of sliced dtron. Take the dough, when it is ready for shaping into loaves, add the other ingredients and mix and beat with the hand or hands as in making brioche. The beating is not done with the side of the hand, but with the tips of the fingers and directly toward the body. Turn into a tube cake pan, and when light (it should not quite double in bulk) bake in an oven at a temperature a Uttle lower than for bread. When cold pour a maple-sugar frosting over the cake, and decorate with pecan or hickory nuts and ornamental frosting. This cake is particularly good made of entire wheat bread dough. HARTFORD ELECTION CAKE (RECIPE 100 YEARS OLD) 5 pounds of dried and gifted flour. 2 poimds of butter. 2 pounds of sugar. 3 gills of distillery yeast, or twice the quantity of home-made yeast. Four eggs. A gill of wine and a gill of bttmdy. Half an ounce of nutmegs, and two poimds of fruit. A quart of milk. ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD. (Seu page 368-) UTENSILS FOR BREAD-MAKINrT, (Sec page 364.) BRG"",- - .'f f - - ' '■, YEAST DOUGHNUTS 397 Rub the butter very fine into the flour; add half the sugar, then yeast, then half the nulk, scalded and cooled to lukewarm, then the eggs well beaten, the wine and the remainder of the milk. Beat well in the morning, adding the brandy, the sugar and the spice. Let rise three or four hours, till very light. When the wood is put into the oven, put the cake in buttered pans, also the frmt, as directed previously. If a richer cake is wanted, add a pound of citron. GERMAN APPLE CAKE Roll a small piece of dough made as for zweiback (seepage 373), half an inch thick, and fit into a shallow rectangular pan. Lay on this apples or peaches peeled, cored and cut in eighths, and bestrew with sugar mixed with cinnamon. Let rise and bake in a quick oven. Serve at breakfast or luncheon with sugar and cream or butter. Rub over the fruit with the cut side of a lemon to avoid discoloring, or wait until the dough is light before putting the fruit in place. BERLIN PANCAKES Shape zweiback dough into balls, flatten the balls, and put a spoonful of jam into the centre of each; bring up the edges and pinch together, forming a ball again. Lay on a flomred board smooth side up and let rise until nearly doubled in size, then frj' in hot fat, drain and dust with sugar and cinnamon mixed. Serve with coffee at breakfast, or cocoa at luncheon. RAISED DOUGHNUTS. (MRS. McELAVEY) 3 cups of bread dough. 2 eggs. J cup of butter. i teaspoonful of cinnamon or nut- I cup of sugar. meg. To the dough ready for shaping in loaves add the other in- gredients and mix thoroughly wiUi the hand. Let rise until doubled in bulk, then roU into a thin sheet and cut into rings. Let stand until doubled in bulk, then fry in deep fat (see page 13). Drain on soft paper, and roll in sifted, powdered sugar. YEAST DOUGHNUTS About seven o'clock in the morning crumble one or two yeast cakes into a cup of scalded-and-cooled milk; mix thoroughly, then beat in about one cup and a fourth of bread flour. Beat 'intil 398 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING smooth, cover and set aside until well-pu£fed up and full of bubbles (about one hour). Add two eggs, half a cup of sugar, one third cup of melted butter, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and ground mace, and flour enough for a soft dough. Nearly four cups of flour (in sponge and dough) will be needed. Knead the dough until smooth and elastic, cover and let stand until doubled in bulk. The time of rising will vary, but probably by eleven o'clock, at the latest, the dough will be ready to turn upon a floured board. Pat the dough into a sheet about three fourths an inch thick. Cut in strips three fourths an inch wide, twist and lengthen these, then shape like the letter eight. Let stand on the board, closely covered, until light throughout. Fry in deep fat, dredge with confec- tioner's sugar. RECIPES FOR SPONGE OR SAVOY CAKE (BISCUIT DE SAVOIE) GENERAL FORMULA FOR SPONQE CAKE The weight of the eggs in sugar and half the weight in flour is the usual formula for the ordinary sponge loaf. In small cakes the number of eggs may be increased to twelve, sixteen or even twenty, to a pound of sugar and half a pound of flour. The grated rind and juice of one lemon complete the list of ingredients used to a pound of sugar. The Portuguese apply the name pan d'our (golden bread) to the sponge cake, in the making of which they are said to excel. In serving sponge Cake, cut through the outer crust only, then break apart with the fingers or a fork. When well baked, sponge cake is never dark in color. SPONQE CAKE (RECIPE USED IN ONE FAMILY FOR THREE GENERATIONS) Take the weight of eight eggs in sugar, one half the weight of the eggs in flour, sifting the flour several times before weigMng. Set the sugar and flour near the fire to keep warm. Beat the yolks of the eggs twenty-five minutes, then beat the whites tmtil they are perfectly stiff; add the sugar to the yolks, beating, not stirring in, then add the whites, and, lastly, sift in the flour. Add the juice of one lemon and bake in a good oven twenty-five minutes. To adapt to the present time, use an egg-beater, and thus shorten the time of beating, and add the lemon juice to the yolks and sugar. SUNSHINE CAKE 399 SPONGE CAKE (MEASURE BY CUPS) 5 eggs (i cup of eggs when broken). Grated rind and juice of half a lemon. 1 cup of sugar. i cup of flour. See Mixing Sponge Cake, page 391. IDEAL SPONGE CAKE. (ELEANOR S. McKENZIE) 4 eggs. Grated rind of half a lemon or i teaspoonful of salt. orange. I cup of fine granulated sugar. 1 tablespoonful of orange or lemon i cup of flour. juice. Beat the whites of the eggs with salt until dry, then beat in gradually one half the sugar. Beat the yolks the same length of time as the whites (by the clock), then gradually beat in the other half cup of sugar; add the grated rind and juice, then beat the two together. Now sprinkle the flour in, little by little, folding it imder with a perforated spoon. Do not beat after any of the flour is added. Bake from twenty to forty minutes, according to the shape of the pan. "BOILED" SPONGE CAKE I cup of sugar. The grated rind and juice of half a I cup of water. lemon. The yolks of five eggs. i cup of flour. The whites of five eggs. Boil the sugar and water to the thread stage, and pour in a fine stream on to the yolks of the eggs, beaten until thick and lemon- colored, beating constantly some time, then set dish into cold water, and continue beating imtil the mixture is cold, adding while beating the lemon juice and rind. When cold fold in half the whites of eggs, beaten dry, and the flour, then the rest of the egg whites. Bake in a tube pan about fifty minutes, and let cool in the inverted pan. This is, in reality, the same cake as the "sponge cake (meas- ure by cups)," the water with which the sugar is boiled being lost in the boUing process. SUNSHINE CAKE The whites of seven eggs. i cup of sugar (fine granulated). The yolks of five eggs. i teaspoonful of orange extract. J a teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar. f cup of flour. 40O PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Beat the yolks of the eggs until light colored and thick; beat the whites until foamy, add the cream-of-tartar and beat until diy; beat the sugar into the whites, then beat in the yolks; add the extract and fold in the flour. Bake in an unbuttered tube pan from thirty-five to fifty minutes. ANGEL CAKE 1 cup of whites of eggs i cup of flour. (about lo eggs). J teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar. I cup of sugar. i teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Beat the whites of the eggs tmtil foamy; add the cream-of-tartar and beat imtil dry; beat in the sugar gradually, using a cake spoon, add the extract, then fold in the flour; bake in a tube pan, imbut- tered, with a stronger heat than for yellow sponge cake. Thirty to fifty minutes will be needed, according to the depth of the pan. COCOANUT CAKE. (MRS. MATTHEWS, OHIO) WUteE of eight eggs. li cups of flour. i} cups of sugar. i teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar. § teaspoonful of salt. Mix as an angel cake. Bake in layers. Make a frosting with the whites of five eggs, and two level tablespoonfuls of sugar for each egg. Put fresh grated cocoanut between the layers and over the outside. For frosting, beat the whites dry, then beat m sugar. CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE Add to the beaten eggs and sugar of a sponge-cake mixtiure made with yolks of eggs two tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, melted over hbt water, and finish as any sponge cake. Use half a tea- spoonful of cream-of-tartar with the whites of the eggs and flavor with vanilla. MOCHA CAKE Bake a sponge-cake mixture in two round layer cake pans. Pre- pare a mocha cream and spread smoothly between the layers and upon the outside of the cake. Score the cake in pieces for serving. Pipe with the remainder of the cream (see Butter Icing, Chapter xvn). FINGER BISCUIT WITH PISTACHIOS 401 LADY-FINQERS (NAPLES BISCUIT) 6 eggs. I cup of flour, li cups of powdered sugar. A grating of lemon or orange rind. The juice of half a lemon. Mix according to formula. Press the mixture through a tube on to a baking sheet, covered with paper, in portions an inch wide and five inches long. Dust with powdered sugar, and bake from ten to fifteen minutes, without browning. Remove from the paper, brush over the flat surface of one biscuit with white of egg, and press the underside of a second biscuit upon the first. LADY FINGERS (QOUFFE) 6 eggs. li cups of flour. I cup of sugar. Flavoring. MOCHA CAKES Bake a sponge cake in a sheet. When baked it should be nearly an inch in thickness. Cut the cake in small roimds, spread the sides lightly with mocha cream, then roll in chopped nuts. Cocoa- nut, pecan nuts or walnuts may be used. With pastry bag and star tube pipe mocha cream round and round over the top of the cake. Finish with a maraschino cherry in the centre. AFRICANS, OR OTHELLOS Press the lady-finger mixture on to the paper in rounds an inch and a half in cfiameter. When baked, spread the flat surface of half the biscuits with jam or jelly and cover with the remaining biscuits. Dip in chocolate fondant, or frosting, and dry on oiled paper. FINGER BISCUIT WITH PISTACHIOS Press the biscuit paste on to the paper in oval-shaped strips, one and three fourth inches long by three fourths inch wide, dust with fine granulated sugar, and when baked cover the tops with Italian meringue (boiled frosting), and sprinkle with chopped pistachios. Or strew the biscuits before baking with fine-chopped almonds mixed with sugar, and the Italian meringue may be omitted. 402 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING SWEDISH MERINGUE The whites of five eggs. h cup of flour. I teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar. j teaspoonful of vanilla f cup of sugar (scant). extract. Prepare as angel cake, bake in two shallow pans; when cooled, put together witfi the following filling and decorate with candied fruit: FILLING 1 pint of milk. A few grains of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. i cup of shredded cocoanut. 3 yolks of eggs. Juice of I lemon. i cup of sugar. Grated rind of half an orange. Stir the flour and salt with milk to pour and cook in the milk scalded over hot water; let cook ten minutes, then add the yolks beaten with the sugar and the orange rind; stir until the egg is slightly cooked, then remove, add the cocoanut and, when cold, the lemon juice. SPONGE CAKE WITH COLD WATER 6 eggs. I cup (less 2 tablespoonfuls) of cold 3 cups of sugar. water. The grated rind and juice of half 3 cups of flour. a lemon. ' i teaspoonful of soda. 3i teaspoonfuls (level) of cream-of-tartar. Beat the eggs, without separating, until very thick, add the sugar gradually, beating all the time, then the grated rind, juice, and water, alternately, with the flour, cream-of-tartar, and soda. Bake in two long narrow sponge-cake pans. ORANGE CAKE. (MRS. ELLIOT RUSSEL, BOSTON) The yolks of five eggs. 2 cups of powdered sugar. The whites of four eggs. J teaspoonful of soda. a cups of flour. 2 teaspoonfuls of cream-of-tartar. Beat the yolks until light colored and thick; add the sugar gradually, then the whites of the eggs and the flour sifted with the soda and cream-of-tartar. Bake in two pans ii^xyf inches. Finish with Royal icing made with orange juice. (Page 425.) Or use water icing. WHITE FRUIT CAKE 403 SWEDISH SPONQE CAKE S eggs. J cup of potato flour. I cup of sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls of lemon extract or I tcaspoonful of salt. grated rind and juice of J lemon. Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately. Beat the sugar into the yolks, add the flour sifted with the salt, then the extract and egg whites. Bake about forty minutes. This makes a very tender sponge cake. RECIPES FOR CAKE MADE WITH BUTTER Prepare in the usual manner. (See Mixing Butter Cakes, page 392.) POUND CAKE i| pounds of butter. 2 level teaspoonfuls of baking- i| pounds of sugar. powder. 10 eggs. I cup of milk (scant). i| pounds of flour. Sliced citron. POUND CAKE BY MEASURE. (ANN FLEURY. STOCKBRIDQE. COOK IN SAME FAMILY 25 YEARS) 1 cup of butter. 4 eggs. ij cups of sugar (powdered). § cup of milk. 2 cups of flour. I level teaspoonful of baking-powder. BELL'S PRIZE POUND CAKE f cup of butter. i level teaspoonful of baking- I cup of sugar. powder. 4 yolks of eggs. i tablespoonful of milk. i§ cups of flour. 4 whites of eggs. WHITE FRUIT CAKE i cup of butter. i teaspoonful of baking-powder. 1 cup of sugar. } teaspoonful of almond ex- The whites of five eggs. tract. if cups of flour. i pound of blanched ahnonds. 2 pound of cocoanut. f pound of citron. Bake in a loaf and cover with a boiled icing. Mix, as usual, add- ing the fruit last. Fresh cocoanut, grated, is best. 404 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING FRUIT CAKE. (AUNT REBECCA) 2 pound of butter. I cup of molaseee. I pound of sugar. li teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, f pound of flour. i teaspoonful of mace. 6 eggs. I teaspoonful of cloves. I I pounds of raisins. i teaspoonful of nutmeg, li pounds of currants. i teaspoonful of soda. 1 pound of citron. J cup of milk or cold coffee. LOAF CAKE. (MISS MINNA TRAIN, BOSTON) 1 cup of butter. i cup of cold water. 2 cups of sugar. i| cups of chopped raisins. 3 cups of flour. 2 level teaspoonfuls of baking- 4 eggs. powder. i| teaspoonfuls of cinnamon. i nutmeg, grated. ENTIRE WHEAT FRUIT CAKE. (CHARLOTTE J. WILLS BOSTON) i cup of butter. J cup of pastry flour. I J cups of sugar. a cups of entire wheat flour. I cup of seeded raisins. i teaspoonful of soda. I egg beaten without separating. i^ teaspoonfuls of mixed spices. I cup of sour milk. Add tlie raisins (currants or nuts may be substituted) to the butter and sugar creamed together, then the egg and, alternately, the floiu: sifted with the soda and spices and the sour milk. Turn the mixture into small tins — it will take eighteen — and dredge the tops with granulated sugar. Bake about twenty-five minutes. WEDDING CAKE (10 POUNDS) I pound of butter. i teaspoonful of soda. I potmd of sugar. | teaspoonful of cloves. I pound of flour. i teaspoonful of cinnamon. 12 eggs. J teaspoonful of mace. 2} pounds of currants. i pound candied peel, chopped. 2i pound of raisins. J pound blanched almonds, chopped. J pound of citron. i nutmeg. Bake in two loaves, two and a half hours. TWIN MOUNTAIN MUFFINS. (See page 382.) MUFFINS AND WAFFLES, WITH UTENSILS. (See pages 382 and 385.) LINCOLN CAKE 405 IMPERIAL CAKE i pound of butter (i cup). | pound of raisins. i pound of sugar (i cup). i cup of walnut meats. The grated rind and juice of half ^ pound of flour. a lemon. i teaspoonful of soda. J cup of dtron. S eggs. Add the whites of the eggs, beaten stifiE, before the flour, on ac- count of the absence of liquid to moisten. Reserve a little of the flour for dredging the fruit. Seed the raisins, cut the citron fine and chop the nuts, and add the soda with the flour. Bake in a tube pan nearly an hour and a half. FRUIT CAKE. (MRS. WM. B. SEWALL) I pound of moist brown sugar. i teaspoonful of allspice. I poimd of butter (scant). i teaspoonful of nutmeg. 8 eggs. 2 pounds of raisins. I pound of flour. 2 pounds of currants. 1 cup of molasses. J pound of citron. 2 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon. i level teaspoonful of soda. I teaspoonful of doves. i sherry glass of brandy. 2 glasses of sherry. Mix as usual; at the last sift the soda into the molasses heated over the fire, and while foaming stir into the other ingredients. Bake in two bread pans between three and four hours. LINCOLN CAKE. (JOSEPHINE J. KIMBALL, CANTON, OHIO) I pound of butter. i pound of raisins. I J pounds of brown sugar. i pound of currants, ij pounds of flour. -J pound of dtron. I pint of sweet milk. j pound of blanched almonds. I dessertspoonful of soda. i nutmeg. 6 eggs. I teaspoonful of cloves. I tablespoonful of cinnamon. Mix in the usual manner. The baking is simplified and shortened by using two pans. This cake was a great favorite in Canton in 1861 and the years immediately following. * 4o6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING HICKORY NUT CAKE. (MRS. WM. B. SEWALL, BOSTON) i§ cups of sugar. 2 cups of flour, i cup of butter. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powde J cup of milk. The whites of four eggs. I cup of chopped nut meats. Mix in the usual manner, reserving part of the nuts to sprinkle on the top of the cake when it is in the pan. Bake in a loaf in a moderate oven about an hour. NUT AND RAISIN CAKE. (MARIA W. HOWARD, BOSTON) i cup of butter. 2I tea^oonfuls of baking-powder. 1 cup of sugar. 2 squares of melted chocolate. i cup of seeded and chopped raisins. § cup of walnut meats cut in small 2 eggs. pieces. i cup of milk. i teaspoonful of salt. li cups of flour. § teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Add the chopped raisins to the butter and sugar, creamed as usual, and the melted chocolate and nut meats at the last. Bake about three fourths hour. Frost with boiled icing and decorate with nuts and raisins. WHITE CAKE, (MRS. HENDERSON) 1 cup of butter. ij cups of fine granulated sugar. 2 cups of flour. The grated rind and juice of half a The whites of six eggs. lemon. i teaspoonful of soda. Beat the butter to a cream; add gradually the flour into which the soda has been sifted and beat to a smooth paste. Beat the whites of the eggs dry, using a whisk so as to make them as light as possible; whisk in the sugar (powdered sugar is designated by Mrs. Henderson, but fine granulated gives much better results), then combine the two mixtures by beating the sugar and egg very gradually into the butter and flour. Add the lemon juice last and beat until smooth. Put into an oven of very moderate heat. Bake half an hour or longer, according to the shape of the pan. Cover with an icing flavored with lemon. DEVIL'S FOOD 407 NEWPORT CAKE Beat one cup of butter to a cream and gradually beat into it one cup and a half of sifted flour, sifted again with a level teaspoonful of. baking-powder. Beat the yolks of five eggs until lemon colored and thick, then gradually beat into them one cup and a half of sifted powdered sugar. Now gradually beat the yolk and sugar mixture into the butter and flour mixture. Lastly, beat in the whites of five eggs, beaten dry, and one tablespoonful of brandy. Bake, in a loaf, one hour; in a sheet, about forty-five minutes. The heat of the oven should be moderate, especially when the cake is first put into it. The cake is very fine-grained, tender and delicate. LADY BALTIMORE CAKE For the cake, take one cup of butter, two cups of granulated sugar, three and one half cups of sifted flour, two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one cup of milk, one teaspoonful of rose water and the whites of six eggs. For the frosting, take three cups of granulated sugar, one cup of boiling water, the whites of three eggs, one cup of chopped raisins, one cup of chopped nut meats and five figs, cut into bits. Mix the cake in the usual manner; the ingre- dients are enumerated in order. For the frosting, cook the sugar and water until when tested the s)mip will spin a thread two inches long; pour in a fine stream on to the whites of the eggs beaten dry; Md the fruit and use when cold as filling and frosting. DEVIL'S FOOD J cup of butter. 2J cups of flour. 2 cups of sugar. i teaspoonful of cinnamon. 4 eggs. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. I cup of milk. I teaspoonful of vanilla extract. § cup of grated chocolate (2 oz.). Cream the butter with one cup of the sugar; add the other cup of sugar to the beaten yolks and combine the two; add the milk alternately with the flour, sifted with the cinnamon and baking- powder, then the vanilla, the whites of the eggs beaten dry, and lastly the melted chocolate. Bake in a tube pan or in layers. Put together and ice with boUed frosting, to wmch candied fruit, cut fine, has been added; or v§e a marshmallow icing. Or, bake in a 4o8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING sheet, ice with boiled frosting and spread one fourth pound of "Dot" chocolate, melted, over the icing. (See illustration.) ELEGANT CAKE 1 cup of butter. 3i cups of flour. 2 cups of sugar. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. i cup of milk. The whites of seven eggs . Bake in layers or in one sheet. Ice as desired. PLAIN CAKE i cup of butter. J cup of milk. 1 cup of sugar. i teaspoonful of soda. 2 eggs. 2 teaspoonfuls of cream-of-tartar. ij cups of flour. Bake in layers; put together with a filling and ice the top. Fig, date, lemon or orange filling is suitable. Serve freshly made. ICE CREAM CAKE, NO. 1 (BOSTON CATERER) I cup of butter. i poimd of flour (4 cups). 1} cups of sugar. i teaspoonful of soda. I cup of eggs. 3 teaspoonfuls of cream-of-tartar. I cup of milk. i teaspoonful of mace. I teaspoonful of vanilla. Cream the butter; add the sugar gradually, the eggs, two at a time, tmbeaten, and beat each time until very light, then add the milk alteiaiately with the flour, mace, and leavening agents; add the vanilla last. Bake in a tube pan; ice as desired. LEMON CAKE I cup of butter. i teaspoonful of soda (scant). 3 cups of sugar. The whites of five eggs. 5 yolks of eggs. The grated rind and juice of one I cup of milk. lemon. 4 cups of flour. 4 tablespoonf uls of lemon juice. Follow the directions for mixing cakes with butter, adding the lemon juice last. Bake in two loaves about an hour. The heat ICE CREAM CAKE NO. 2 409 of the oven should be very moderate at first. A Turk's head pan gives good results. Cover with icing flavored with lemon rind and juice. The cake is at its best after being kept two or three days. FRUIT CAKE. (DR. C. F. LANGWORTHY) X pound of butter. i cup of brandy or whiskey. I pound of brown sugar. 12 whites of eggs. 12 yolks of eggs.* 6 pounds of seeded raisins. I pound of flour. 3 pounds of currants. 1 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 2 pounds of citron. 2 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon. 2 poimds of candied cherries. 1 teaspoonful of cloves. 2 pounds of candied apricots. 2 nutmegs, grated. 2 pounds of pineapple. Steam five hours, then bake one hour in a very slow oven. Leave cherries whole, cut citron, apricots and pineapple in large pieces. ROCHESTER GINGERBREAD i cup of butter. i cup of molasses. i cup of sugar. 3 cups of flour. 2 eggs. 1 1 teaspoonfuls of soda. I cup of thick sour milk. i teaspoonful of ginger. 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon. Bake in two brick-loaf pans, or in one shallow pan. NEW YORK GINGERBREAD. (MRS. THOMPSON) i cup of butter. I cup of milk. 1 cup of sugar. 2 cups of flour. 2 eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of yellow ginger. i cup of molasses. i teaspoonful of soda. Mix in the usual manner and bake in a loaf. ICE CREAM CAKE, NO. 2 1 cup of butter. 3 cups of flour. 2 cups of sugar. 6 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. I cup of milk. The whites of five eggs. Follow the directions for mixing butter cakes. Bake in two thin sheets. Spread "ice cream filling" between the layers, also upon. 4IO PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING the top and sides. Or use a White Mountain cream, made of two cups of sugar, half a cup of water, and the whites of three eggs, adding bits of cherries, angeKca, pineapple, etc., to the filling. DELICATE CAKE f cup of butter. 3 cups of flour. 2 cups of sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, i cup of milk. The whites of six eggs. I teaspoonful of almond extract. Mix in the usual manner and bake in a loaf (tube pan) or layers. GOLDEN CAKE 1 cup of butter. | cup of milk. I cup of sugar. if cups of flour. The yolks of eight eggs. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. I teaspoonful of' orange extract. Bake in tube pan, cover with plain icing, or with ice cream filling, into which fresh or dried cocoanut has been stirred. LORD BALTIMORE CAKE Bake the recipe for Golden Cake in three layers. Put together and cover with the following mixture: Boil one and one half cups of sugar and half cup of water to 238° F., and pour in a fine stream on the whites of two eggs, beaten dry; then add half cup of macaroon crumbs, half cup of nut meats, one third cup of candied cherries, cut fine, and half teaspoonful, each, of orange and vanilla extract. ALMOND CAKE J cup of butter. 3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 1 cup of sugar. i teaspoonful of vanilla extract. i cup of milk. J cup of blanched almonds. 2 cups of flour. Granulated sugar. The whites of 3 eggs. Mix in the usual manner and spread in two layer-cake pans. Halve the nuts and press sidewise into the top of one of the layers, and sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake about fifteen minutes. LEMON QUEENS 411 Put the layers together with White Mountain frosting, to which one third cup of diopped almonds has been added. This cake is particularly good with a boiled chocolate dressing between and above the layers. Omit the almonds. Chopped English walnuts in the chocolate filling and halves of nuts on the top are good, though, perhaps, superiluous. PINEAPPLE CAKE i cup cff butter. i teaspoonful of soda. I J cups of sugar. J teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar. } cup of milk. I teaspoonful of lemon extract. 2i cups of flour. The whites of five eggs. Bake in layer-cake pans. Put pineapple filling between the layers and plain idng on the top. PISTACHIO CAKE Bake the mixture for ice cream or pineapple cake in a dripping pan. When baked and cold, invert and spread the bottom of the cake with White Mountain frosting, and sprinkle thickly with chopped pistachio nuts. Flavor with half a teaspoonful of almond extract. MOLASSES DROP CAKE. (MRS. TAYLOR) I cup of butter. i tablespoonful of ginger, f cup of boiling water. i teaspoonful of cinnamon. I pint of molasses. i teaspoonful of salt. I tablespoonful of soda. Flour for drop batter. Melt the butter in the boiling water and add the molasses and the other ingredients sifted together. Drop from a spoon on to a buttered baking tin, having the cakes some distance apart. Bake in a slow oven. LEMON QUEENS i cup of butter. 4 eggs. I cup of sugar. . i| cups of flour. The grated rind and juice of half a i teaspoonful of salt, lemon. i teaspoonful of soda. Mix in the usual manner and bake in small tins (lemon-queen cake tins are deep rather than broad) about twenty-five minutes. Cover the tops with plain icing flavored with lemon, 412 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING PLUNKETTS I cup of butter. § cup of flour. I cup of sugar. f cup of cornstarch. 6 eggs. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. I teaspooniul of vanilla extract. Cream the butter; add the sugar, beating until foamy. Beat the whites of the eggs tmtil dry and the yolks until light colored and thick, pour the yolks over the whites and "cut and fold" together. Sift together, twice, the flour, cornstarch and baking-powder. Add the beaten eggs to the butter and sugar gradually, then add the dry ingredients and the vanilla extract. Bake in individual tins, buttered. Ice or not as desired. SMALL CHOCOLATE CAKES i cup of butter. i teaspoonful of cinnamon. J cup of cocoa. § cup of water. 3 eggs. I J cups of flour. I cup of sugar. 3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Add the cocoa to the creamed butter and bake in small tins. When cold cover with marshmallow frosting, coiling the frosting round and round upon the top. NUT CAKES } cup of butter. if cups of flour. I cup of sugar. 4 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 3 eggs. I teaspoonful of vanilla extract. i cup of milk. I a cup of of walnut meats, broken in pieces. Mix in the usual manner and bake in small tins. When cold spread the tops with White Mountain frosting and decorate with half a nut-meat. Or add half a cup of nut meats, broken in pieces, to a maple-sugar frosting, beat very light, let cool to keep shape, and put on to the cakes so that it be quite irregular in appearance. BROWNIES } cup of butter. i egg well beaten. i cup of sugar. i cup of flour. i cup of molasses (dark). i cup of nuts, pecan or walnuts. PEANUT COOKIES 413 Mix in the usual manner, but without separating the egg. Bake in small, fancy-shaped cake tins. Press half a nut meat into the top of each cake. Small pressed tins of American made in various shapes, as stars, shells, leaves, etc., can be purchased for three cents each. VIENNA QUEENS i cup of buttei. I tablespoouful of rich cream. i cup of sugar. i teaspoonf ul of vanilla. 3 eggs J cup of flour. 6 ounces of dried cocoanut. f cup of cornstarch. 8 crushed macaroons. i teaspoonful of baking-powder. Mix in the usual manner, adding the eggs, beaten without sepa- rating, before the flour, cocoanut, and macaroon crumbs. Bake in small tins, buttered and dusted with equal parts of sugar and flour. Shell or nut-shaped tins are pretty. When cold, ice and decorate with candied friiit. These cakes may also be baked in lemon queen tins; when cold remove the centres and fill with whipped cream; garnish with candied cherries. Or bake in two layers and put together with whipped cream. COCOANUT POUND CAKE I cup of butter. 3 cupe of flour. 3 cups of sugar. 2 level teaspoonfuls of cream-of- 1 cup of milk. tartar (scant measure). The whites of six eggs, i teaspoonful of soda. I grated cocoanut. Follow the directions for mixing butter cakes; add the cocoanut (freshly .grated) at the last and bake in two tube pans; ice with boiled icing. Or bake in small cakes — the mixture will make three dozen. When cold dip in fondant, delicately tinted, and ornament with halved almonds and candied cherries. For baking in loaves, or small cakes, the oven at first needs be at a very moder- ate temperatxure. PEANUT COOKIES. (MISS YOUNQ, NEW HAMPSHIRE) i cup of butter (scant). i cup of flour. i cup of sugar, i teaspoonfid of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of milk. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, I egg. \ cup of peanuts. 414 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Mix in the usual manner; add the egg beaten without separating the white from the yolk. Reserve a few whole pieces of nuts to gami^ the tops of the cakes, and add the rest, poimded fine in a mortar, at the last. Drop on a buttered tin, a teaspoonful in a place and some distance apart. The ingredients as given will make two dozen cookies. PFEFFER NUESSE I pound of sugar (2 cups). i tablespoonful of cloves. I pound of flour (4 cups). i tablespoonful of mace. The giated rind of one lemon. ^ tablespoonful of nutmeg. } cup of fine-chopped citron. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. I tablespoonful of cinnamon. 5 eggs. Pass the flour, sugar, spices, and baking-powder through the sieve together; add the citron and lemon rind and mix to a dough with the eggs beaten without separating the whites and yolks. With buttered hands shape into small balls the size of a hickory nut. Bake on waxed or buttered paper, an inch apart, to a delicate brown, in a quick oven. These much resemble macaroons. The recipe gives seventy cakes. ENGLISH QINQER NUTS. (JULIA DAVIS CHANDLER) i pound of butter (i cup). 1 poimd of flour (4 cups). I pound of sugar (2 cups). 2 tablespoonfuls of white ginger. 2 eggs. Cream the butter, add the sugar, eggs beaten without separating, and ginger with the flour. Shape into balls the size of marbles. Bake in a quick oven, but avoid burning. This recipe makes about forty little cakes similar to macaroons in looks and flavor. Fine- chopped candied orange peel is an improvement to these cakes. FAIRY GINGERBREAD } cup of butter. ^ cup of milk. I cup of powdered sugar. i| cups of flour. I tablespoonful of ginger. Cream together the butter and sugar; add the milk drop by drop, then the flour and ginger sifted together. With a broad-bladed knife spread the mixture very thin on the bottom of dripping pans, inverted and buttered, and mark in squares; bake about five min- GERMAN CRISPS 415 utes, or until delicately colored. The heat of the oven should be moderate. Very quickly cut the wafers apart, turn upon the hot pan, and roll in a tubular shape. Roll either from one side or comer. ALMOND WAFERS J cup of butter. i teaspoonful of vanilla. I cup of powdered sugar. 2 cups of pastry flour. i cup of milk. Chopped almonds. Mix, bake, and roll aS fairy gingerbread, sprinkling the mixture, after spreading and scoring, with the chopped almonds. The wafers may be tied in threes with very narrow ribbon. Or, the sides dipped in caramel, they may be pressed one against another aroimd a mould. Heat the mould a little, and the case may be slipped from the mould to set in place about a charlotte or Bavarian cream. GRAHAM WAFERS I cup of butter. § teaspoonful of soda. I cup of sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls of cream-of-tartar The white of one egg. l cup of water. Graham flour to knead. Mix in the usual manner, roll very thin, cut in squares with a sharp knife, or a pastry jagger, and prick with a fork; bake until crisp, but of delicate color. GERMAN RINGS I pound of flour (4 cups). The yolks of three eggs. 8 ounces of butter (i cup). i teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 6 ounces of sugar (f cup). Sliced almonds or pistachios. The white of one egg. Cream the butter and add the sugar, yolks of eggs, vanilla, and flour. Add the last of the flour very carefully, as all may not be required. Knead imtil well mixed, then roll into a thin dieet, cut into rings two iriches across, brush over with the white of egg, slightly beaten and sprinkle thickly with thin sliced or chopped almonds or pistachios. Bake a pale straw color. GERMAN CRISPS 1 cup of butter. 3 eggs. 2 cups of sugar. Flour to knead. The grated rind and juice of one Chopped nuts, fruit, etc lemon. 41 6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Add the sugar gradually to the creamed butter, then the rind and juice of the lemon, the yolks and whites beaten separately, and the flour. Roll into a thin sheet, cut out into roimds, hearts, diamonds, etc., brush over with beaten white of egg and decorate with nuts and candied fruit. Bake to a delicate straw color. Before baking dredge with granulated sugar. Use half the recipe. COOKIES I cHp of butter. i to i full cup of milk. 1 cups of sugar. 4 cups of flour or less. 2 eggs. 6 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Mix in the usual manner, adding milk according as a rich, crisp, or a less rich and soft cookie is desired. Diminish the quantity of flour and baking-powder, if less than a full cup of liquid be used. Take a little of the dough upon the board at a time, and handle as little as possible; the dough should be quite soft, if a cup of milk be used, pat into a sheet and cut into cakes. After placing in the pan dredge with granulated sugar. Bake in a quick oven. SOFT JUMBLES. (MRS. SIDNEY LINCOLN) i cup of butter. | cup of sour cream. I cup of sugar. 2§ cups of flour. I beaten egg. J teaspoonfxil of soda. Caraway seed. Mix in the order given; drop from a spoon; bake in a slow oven. GINGER SNAPS I cup of butter. i egg. I cup of sugar. i teaspoonful of soda. . cup of molasses. i tablespoonful of ginger. Flour to knead. Mix In the usual manner, adding the flour sifted with the ginger, and the soda last. MOLASSES CANDY COOKIES. (ELEANOR J. McKENZIE) I cup of butter. aj cups of molasses. 2 cups of flour. Boil the butter and molasses until thick, but not quite candied; when cooled a little, add the flour, more may be required. When thoroughly cold, roll and cut into cakes. Bake in a slow oven. CHOU PASTE 417 HERMITS I cup of butter. 3 cups of flour or more. I J cups of sugar. i teaspoonful of cloves. I cup of chopped raisins. i teaspoonful of nutmeg. 3 eggs. J teaspoonful of soda. Add the raisins to the butter and sugar creamed together; then add the eggs, beaten without separating the whites and yolks, and the flour sifted with the soda and spice; roll into a thin sheet, cut in rounds and bake in a slow oven. SPRINQERLE 4 eggs. I pound of flour. I pound of powdered sugar. i teaspoonful of baking-powder The grated rind of one lemon. (scant). i teaspoonful of salt. Beat the yolks of the eggs until light colored and thick, the whites until dry, then beat together; add the grated lemon rind and the sugar, sifted, very gradually, beating all the time, lastiy add the flour with the baking-powder and salt. All of the flour rday not be required. Knead and cover closely; let chill two or three hours, then roll, a small piece at a time, into a sheet one eighth an inch thick; with a very close sieve dust the sheet of dough lightiy with flour, then press the wooden springerle moiild do^iTi very hard upon the dough, so as to leave a perfect impress of the pictures upon the dough; cut out the little squares with a knife and set aside, on a board lightiy floured, over night. In the morning transfer to bak- ing tins, buttered and sprinkled with anise seed, and bake in a slow oven to a light straw color. These delicious littie cakes are quite universally made in Germany a few weeks before Christmas. Often they are kept on hand for months, and when eaten are softened iii the beverage which accompanies them. Some of the pictures upon the moulds are grotesque, others are very attractive. CHOU PASTE } cup of butter. i cup of flour. I cup of boiling water. 3 large or four small eggs. Set a saucepan containing the butter and water over the fire; when the mixture boils sift in one cup of flour and beat vigorously. 4i8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING When the mixture cleaves from the sides of the pan, turn into a bowl and beat in the eggs, one at a time, and very thoroughly. The mixture is now ready for use as indicated. BOSTON CREAM CAKES Put the chou paste into a pastry bag with tube having an open- ing half an inch in diameter. Force the batter on to a buttered baking sheet, in balls about two inches in diameter. Brush over the tops with a little beaten egg, diluted with milk, and bake about twenty-five minutes with heat strongest at the bottom of the oven. When baked and cold open at one side and fill with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, or with English cream filling. (See Custards.) FRENCH CREAM CAKES Press the chou paste on to a buttered sheet, giving the balls a slightly oval shape. Brush with egg and bake as before. Cut across the tops a little at one side and fill with thick cream, sweet- ened and flavored and beaten stiff. In filling the cakes use a pastry bag with star tube attached. Sprinkle the tops of the cakes with sifted, powdered sugar. Cream cakes are often served with a spoonful of strawberry preserves. In season, fresh berries mashed to a pulp may be added to the cream before whipping. CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS Press the chou paste from a pastry bag with plain tube> three fourths an inch in diameter, on to a buttered baking-sheet, in strips three inches and a half in length. When baked and cold fill with French or English cream. Dip the smooth, or imder sides, into chocolate fondant, or spread with chocolate frosting. (See page 425.) QUEEN ECLAIRS Bake &lairs in the usual shape, only smaller. When cool fill with peach marmalade, in which fine-chopped almonds have been mixed. Spread the tops with orange icing. SWEDISH MACAROONS u ounces of shredded almonds. i pound of sugar. 4 ounces of ground almonds, 2 whole eggs. ^ ounces of cort(.iwMM •mm SPRINGERLIE MOULD. TO ICE A CAKE 4»5 MARSHMALLOW FROSTINQ li cups of granulated sugar. ^ pound of matslunallows. i cup of boiling water. 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling water. The whites of two eggs. i teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Prepare the first three ingredients as "boiled frosting." Add the marshmallows, cut in small pieces and melted with the boiling water over the teakettle. Add the flavor and beat until cold. Decorate with cubes of marshmallows, if desired. MARSHMALLOW ICING NO. 2 i 2 cups of granulated sugar. i lb. of marshmallows. i cup of boiling water. i teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 4 whites of eggs. Boil the sugar and water as in making fondant to 240° F. Pour in a fine stream on the whites beaten dry, beating constantly meanwhile. Beat occasionally untO nearly cold, add the extract and the marshmallows, cut in four pieces, each. FONDANT ICINQ Icing made from fondant, both as regards looks and taste, is the best of all icings. However, it is more often used for small than for large cakes, as the best results are secured when the article to be iced is dipped into the icing. The fondant from which this icing is prepared keeps almost indefinitely, and, when not ready for use, may be bought of a confectioner or baker. A recipe for fondant is given on page 583. To prepare for icing, put what will be needed into the upper paxt of a double-boiler set over hot water; add a few drops of syrup, at about 35°, and such flavoring as is desired, and beat while it melts. The water need not boil, as the fondant melts at a low temperature. Tint if desired, and dip into the icing the ar- ticles to be coated. Small cakes of all kinds and &lairs are most commonly the choice. Add syrup to thin, as the mixture thickens, and always beat before dipping an article. Made a little thinner than for dipping, it may be rim on to a large cake. Fondant should be beaten, not stirred. TO ICE A CAKE Cakes that are properly mixed and baked need but little if any trimming to put them into symmetrical shape for icing. Trimming 430 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING should be avoided if possible, for a cake with a smooth surface and free from loose crumbs is the first essential of neat work. Often bakers brush the entire surface of angel cakes with a whiskbroom before pouring over them the thin water icing with which these cakes are usually masked. Small cakes cut from a sheet are "glazed," or brushed over with white of egg mixed with a small quantity of sugar, then allowed to dry twelve hours or more before icing. The preliminary smooth covering of almond icing answers the purpose for another class of cakes. Many cakes may be in- verted, thus presenting the surface next to the tin or lining of the tin for icing. "Water" icings and boiled icings need be spread very rapidly, as they set very soon, and the surface cannot be im- proved in appearance afterward save by the addition of another complete layer of icing. Royal icing may be made smooth and even with a silver knife wet in hot or cold water. Nearly a poimd of royal icing will be needed to cover the top and sides of a cake of ordinary size. TO ICE WITH ROYAL ICINQ Pour a quantity of the icing on to the middle of the cake and spread with knife, dipped in water, in an even layer over the top of the cake, turning it smoothly over the edges. Add sugar to the remaining icing and when thoroughly beaten put this by spoonfuls against the sides of the cake, and spread upward and downward until smooth. The cake should be set on a box resting on a meat or similar board, kept for the purpose, or on a large platter. Turn the cake by turning the box. The idng that drops to the board, or plate, below can be taken up and used again. Let the cake stand in the warm room or in the warming oven to dry for an hour or so. At this time nuts or candied fruit may be put in place. If the cake is to be iced with ornamental icing, it needs stand twelve hours or more. Water icing makes a better foundation. TO PIPE A CAKE WITH ORNAMENTAL ICINQ The forcing bag and tubes necessary in piping a cake are re- ferred to on page 29; see also illustration. To pipe a cake after an elaborate pattern requires a steady hand and much practice, but dots, circles, lines, and stars combined into a simple pattern, or even the letters of a child's name, may be easily accomplished, if the outlines of the design be indicated by points like those made PINEAPPLE FILLING 431 with a larding needle. Small cakes, iced with fondant, are very easily decorated. The white of one egg and sugar in proportion will siiffice to decorate a large number. Small candies, candied cherries, violets and rose leaves are combined with the piping. For an elaborate design, suitable for a large cake, have a pattern traced on paper, cover this with a pane of glass and trace the pattern upon the glass until it is learned. Scrape off the icing before it dries and repeat. Lard or butter may be used instead of icing, while learning how to manipulate the tubes. BOILED CARAMEL ICING Boil one cup of granulated sugar and one fourth cup of water until the syrup threads. In Uie meantime cook one fourth cup of sugar to the caramel stage; add one or two tablespoonfuls of boiling water and cook until the caramel is dissolved. When the first sugar and water are boiled to the thread stage add the liquid caramel, and if not now at the thread stage continue cooking until that stage is reached, then pour in a fine stream on to the white of one egg beaten imtil very foamy but not dry. Beat occasionally until cold, then spread a part over the cake and with forcing bag and tube "pipe" the remainder upon the cake. This icing is par- ticularly good for a nut cake. Nuts may also be added to the icing. ORNAMENTAL FROSTING (BOILED) Dissolve a cup of granulated sugar in one fourth cup of hot water. Wash down the sugar from the sides of the pan, cover and let boil three or four minutes; uncover and let boil to 24o°Fahr., or to a rather firm " soft ball." Pour in a fine stream on the whites of two eggs, beaten dry, beating constantiy meanwhile. Return the icing to the saucepan and let cook on an asbestos mat or over boiling water, beating constantiy, until the icing wiU hold the shape given it. For poinsettias use a leaf tube. For the centres use tiny yellow candies. The idng may be left white or tinted with color paste. FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKES PINEAPPLE FILLING barefully remove the outside and "eyes" of a pineapple, then grate the flesh from the core. Simmer until well reduced. To 432 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING eadi cup of reduced pulp add three fourths cup of sugar and cook to a marmalade. When cool spread between the layers of cake. The addition of the grated rind and juice of half a lemon tends to heighten or bring out the flavor of the pineapple. Finish the top of the cake with a boiled frosting, flavored with lemon, or use a confectioner's frosting. PINEAPPLE FILLING, NO. 2 Stir enough sifted confectioner's sugar into half a cup of pine- apple pulp, reduced without sugar, to make a mixture of consist- ency to spread; flavor with orange or lemon extract, or a table spoonful of lemon juice, and use as filling and frosting. FIQ FILLING i pound of figs. 2 tableepoonfuls of sugar. i cap of water. Juice of half a lemoa. 3 teaEpoonf uls of sherry vdne. Chop the figs very fine; cook with the sugar, water and fruit juice to a smooth paste; add the wine, ikea use between layers of cake. Cooked less thick the mixture may be used with confec- tioner's sugar as a frosting and filling. A small portion of pulp may be added to a boiled frosting after the syrup has been pour«l upon the eggs. If, at any time, through insufficient cooking, or the addition of too much liquid material, a boiled frosting is too thin to hold its shape, return to the fire and beat very vigorously while it evaporates a little. LEMON OR ORANGE FILLING I cup of sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls of buttec I lenuiD or oaaug*. i ^ or tm> yolks of e;gg. Beat the e^ without eapax&iSm the white and yolk; add the sugar, the grated rind and juice of the fruit and the butter, and cook over hot water, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. Use when cold. CHAPTER XVin Pastry and Pies Dame, get up and bake your pies, Bake your pies, bake your pies, Dame, get up and bake your pies, On Christmas day in the morning. Evidently Mother Goose, dear old soul, was in advance of her day and generation in the art of cookery, as well as in matters that pertain to the bringing up of children and sundry other perplexing questions of her day a6d ours. That Mother Goose was at the front in matters of cookery is evidenced by the fact that in those days, when pies were made by the hundred — the plate on which they were baked being handed around the neighborhood — she advised all good housewives to bake their pies on Christmas morn- ing — that is, on the day in which they were to be eaten. Without doubt, this wise old mother did not give her admonitions simply for the sake of rhyming. No; she had reasons for the same; and, like many another Boston woman who has had the courage of her convictions, she boldly annoimced them, heresy though they were. But the world moves; the wisdom of yesterday is an ex- ploded theory to-day, and in our day, though pastry works better when it is prepared the day beforehand, pies, in the usual accept- ance of the term, are not "put together" until the day on which they are to be served. The digestion of fat is not begun in the mouth as is that of starch. Fat undergoes no change in the system vmtil it is emulsified and saponified in the small intestines. As in making pastry the starch granules are completely enveloped in fat, these cannot be seized upon by the saliva in the mouth, and hence the digestion of the starch in pastry is postponed until after the fat is acted upon. Then, if the pancreatic juice can discharge its ofSce, all is well, but if this fails, the starch becomes so much waste material. The fact that insufficient water is added before cooking to cause the starch granules to swell properly also hinders digestion. For these and 433 434 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING other reasons "pie" is no longer given a place in "good society.'' Yet, when one with good understanding of the subject uses good materials and is willing to give time and attention to the manipula- tion and cooking of pastry, pies may be so made that an occasional indulgence therein may be condoned. In the semi-privacy of family gatherings, particularly during the hohday season, pie is often in evidence; while anything made of puff-paste is given place of honor on any occasion, no matter how formal. The English are noted for the number and variety of their pies. These consist of a heavy crust, made of suet, with fillings composed of every known kind of fish or flesh. They are eaten hot or cold, and are, no doubt, a relic of that rude age, when every man's dwell- ing was his castle, from which he was wont to sally forth with hia retainers, to avenge wrongs or enlarge the boundaries of his feudal domain. Dickens makes his characters revel in pies. You recall how his "fat boy" was always on the point of beginning or finishing "a jolly meat pie." Some French cooks include brioche, chou paste (used for &lairs, cheese dishes, etc.,), sponge and other cakes, under the term "pas- try." The word as here used is limited to a mixture of flour, short- ening, and some liquid, mixed, rolled, sometimes folded and baked for special purposes. Thus restricted pastry may be classified under four heads: f Plain / ^ ■ Shortening mixed into the flour by chopping oi "^ with the tips of the fingers. p i-p ft I '■ Shortening worked into a paste of flour and water ' ' ^ by folding and rolling. < 3 . Shortening mixed into the flour by a combination flaky. { ^f j.jjg gj,gj, ^^^ methods. A foxurth paste might be mentioned, for it is still in use in some parts of England as it was in this country in early colonial times, but it now has become weU-nigh obsolete. In this pastry the shortening, beef or mutton suet, is melted in boiling water and stirred boiling hot into the flovir. After kneading and rolling the pastry into a thick sheet it is shaped upon or in a mould by pressing upon it with the fingers xmtil the mould is covered. Thus the "raised pies" of colonial times were made. MATERIALS AND UTENSILS A cool, dry atmosphere is an essential condition in successful pastry making. A flour that absorbs moisture least — that is, a fine PLAIN PASTRY 435 pastry or cake flour, well dried by standing in the warming oven — is a first requisite in pastry making. There are several good brands of flour made expressly for this purpose. The shortening, except for pufE-paste, is largely a matter of taste. Lard makes a light colored, soft, tender crust. Cottolene gives a paste slightly darker when baked, but also soft and tender. The vegetable oils give good results. Beef suet or butter, alone or in combination, may be used for any paste other than puff; for this butter is generally pre- ierred, though some chefs choose a clarified suet. Formerly ice water was thought necessary in mixing paste, but, at the present time, it is known that the process is simplified by using water of the same temperature as that of the room in which the paste is mixed; this, needless to say, should be very low. No more water should be used than is absolutely necessary, as water detracts from the shortness of the crust. PROPORTIONS OF FLOUR AND WATER Flour varies greatly, but half the weight of the flour in water, or four oimces of water (one half cup) to eight of flour (two cups), will usually be about the right proportion for plain pastry. A small quantity of baking-powder insures lightness, but it is not essential to the product of an expert. In siunmertime ice is needed to chill puff-paste, before it is sent to the oven; at other times avoid its use if possible. A marble slab, firmly set, offers the best "field of operations." A square of sailcloth and a rolling pin, fitted with a stockinet cover, both lightly dredged with flour, are good substitutes; but, lacking these, a perfectly smooth hard- wood board will suffice. The rolling pin should be made with movable ends. A flour dredger, a knffe for mixing, and a chopping bowl and knife complete the list of needful utensils. KEEPING PASTRY Any kind of paste will keep uncooked a day or two, longer at some seasons, if it be set aside in a cool place. If baked by itself (without a filling) cooked pastry will keep several days in a dry place. Before serving reheat with care and it wiU present the crispness and freshness of pastry just baked. PLAIN PASTRY (CHOPPED PASTE) 3 cups of flour. J teaspoonful of baking-powder. i teaspoonful salt. i cup of shortening. I to J cup of water. 4^ PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Sift the flour, salt, and baJking-powder into a chopping bowl. Flour the blade of the chopping knife and chop the shortenmg into the flour, being very careful to keep the flour between the blade of the knife and the shortening as much as possible. When the mixture looks like meal, each little particle of fat being coated with flour, add, gradually, cold water enough to make a paste that is not crumbly, but sticks together without adhering to the knife or bowl. If preferred, turn the ingredients, after chopping, into an earthen mixing bowl. A case knife is preferable for mixing paste. When the paste rolled with a knife into a ball has taken up all the particles of dough or flour on the sides of the bowl, turn on to the board lightly dredged mth flour, roU about in the flour with the knife, then pat with the rolling pin into a rectangular shape and roll out to the thickness required. Do not allow the paste to stick to the board or the roller. If the mass slides on the board it will not stick. Dust the board or the paste with flour when necessary, but use no more flour than is absolutely required. Use this paste at once; or roll into one long strip, then fold so as to make three layers, turn halfway around so that the open end may lie facing the operator, and roU out again into a long strip, fold, and turn as before. This process may be repeated. If the paste be closely covered and set aside, it may be manipulated, after some hours, even more easily than when first made. FLAKY PASTRY 3 cups of flour. J cup of shortemng. i teaspoonful of salt. | to f cup of water. i cup of washed butter. Wash the butter and set aside as for puff-paste. With a knife or the tips of the fingers work the half cup of shortening into tie flour and salt. When the mixture looks like meal, add the cold water, gradually, and with a knife mix to a paste as in plain pastry; knead slightly, cover and let stand five minutes, then pat with the rolling pin and roll out into a rectangular sheet. Fold in the butter as in puff-paste, and give the paste two or three "turns," allowing it to stand five minutes between each turn. This pastry may be used at once. If set away for future use cover closely to exclude the air and avoid the forming of a crust. CREAM PASTRY (FOR ONE LARGE PIE) i teaspoonful of baking-powder, or li cups of floiur. J teaspoonful of soda. i to f cup of thick cream. ^ Ublespoonfuls of washed butter, f teaspoonful of salt. PIE MAKING 437 If the cream be sweet, use the baking-powder, if sour, use the soda. Sift the flour, salt, and leavening agent together; stir in enough cream to make a paste as described above. Take out rather more than half the paste, knead slightly tihen pat, and roll out to fit the pie tin. Knead the rest of the paste slightly, roll out into a rectangular sheet, and spread with the washed butter. Fold the first third of the paste over the second third, the last over the others, and pat and roll out. Repeat the folding and rolling two or three times. Then chill and roll to fit the plate. Do not begin to put the pie together until the upper crust has been prepared and chilled. CREAM PASTRY (FOR SMALL MEAT PIES, ETC.) 3 cups of flour. Shortening. i teaspoonful of salt. Cream as needed, or i teaspoonful of baking-powder. Yolks of two eggs and milk as needed. i cup of butter or other shortening. Sift together the flour, salt, and baking-powder; with the tips of the fingers, or a knife, work the shortening into the flour, then mix to a dough with cream or with the yolks of the eggs, beatien and diluted with milk. Cover the outside of the tins, which should flare somewhat, with paste, and prick with a fork. Shape covers; decorate with bits of paste, brush the under side of the decorations with water and put in place and bake; remove from the tins, fill, put the cover in place and serve. POTATO PASTRY (FOR MEAT PIES) 2 cups of flour. i cup of shortening. i teaspoonful of salt. i cup of cold mashed potatoes. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Milk as needed. Sift together the flour, salt, and baking powder; with the tips of the fingers, or a knife, work in the shortening, then the mashed potato; add milk to make a soft dough; turn on to a floured board, handle as little as possible, pat and roll out to fit the top of a dish filled with cooked meat, prepared for a meat pie. If desired the dish may be lined with the pastry and brushed over with the white of egg before the meat is put in place. Roll the pastry about one fourth or three eighths an inch thick. PIE MAKING Use a perforated pie plate of tin or agate ware. Roll out a por- tion of paste, prepared by one of the preceding recipes, into a 438 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING circular piece one eighth an inch thick and a little larger than the plate; put the paste on the tin so as to exclude air from beneath. Do not stretch the paste; if it shrinks, so that it does not cover the plate loosely, roll again into a thinner sheet, as the paste will shrink even more when put into the oven. Put in the filling, brush over the edge of the pastry with cold water and spread a second round of paste, cut a little larger than the pie plate, loosely over the filling; lightly press the edge upon the moistened edge of the first paste and trim if needed. Cut several slits in the top crust before putting it in place, to supply a vent for the steam while cooking. Bake ui a slow oven from thirty-five to forty-five minutes. The pastry needs be well browned. If a glaze be desired, beat the yolk of an egg, add a tablespoonful of water and half a tablespoonful of sugar and beat again. Dip a soft brush into this mixture, lightly brush over the top crust and return to the oven; or this may be done before the pie is set into the oven. When desired a rim, a long strip of paste three fourths an inch wide, may be placed loosely between the two crusts. Brush the edge of the under crust with cold water before putting on the rim, also the rim before laying the upper crust; press together lightly. PIE WITH ONE CRUST Paste for a custard, ptunpkin or squash pie needs be mixed quite stiff. Cut the paste nearly an inch larger than for the under crust of a pie with two crusts. Spread upoft the plate as before — always using a perforated tin — then fold under the edge of the paste all the way round, so that, when the double fold is brought to an up- right position, the cut edge will meet the plate. This double fold of paste will be larger or fuller than the plate and may be fluted with the thumb and finger, taking care to press each "flute" close to the plate at the bottom. Many cooks prefer suet, or part cot- tolene and part suet, for a crust of this kmd, as a firm paste will best hold a given shape. Fill the crust with the prepared filling and bake as before. PIE WITH ONE CRUST, NO. 2 Sometimes the crust may be baked and then filled with a cooked filling. Some of the features that make pastry objectionable are "MOTHER'S APPLE PIE" 439 thereby obviated. Invert a perforated pie plate, and covct the outside with pastry, cut to fit the plate; trim if needed and set on a tin sheet to keep the edge of the paste from touching the floor of the oven; prick the top of the crust with a fork, that it may rise evenly, and bake about fifteen minutes, or imtil thoroughly cooked. Slip the crust from the outside, and put in place as an under crust. Put in the cooked filling, ornament with figures cut from pastry and baked, or cover with a round of crust baked separately, or with a meringue. APPLE AND PEACH PIES To prepare fresh apples or peaches for pies with two crusts, pare the fruit and cut in sUces; mix the sugar, salt and spices, if used, and sprinkle over the apples in the pie; dot here and there with bits of butter. From half to a whole cup of sugar, according to size of plate and tartness of fruit, will be needed. Dried or evap- orated fruit needs be soaked in cold water over night, then cooked quickly in hot water. For putting the pies together, see General Directions, pages 437 and 438. ETHERIAL APPLE PIE. RUSSIAN RECIPE (ALINE P. DELANO) Bake eight large tart apples, pass them through a sieve into s large bowl, chill, then add three fourths cup of sugar and the whites of five eggs, beaten dry, with a few grains of salt. Beat the mixture until very white and light and bake in a buttered pudding dish about twenty minutes. Serve hot with cream and sugar. Cooked prunes, apricots, peaches or berries, passed through a sieve, may be substituted for the apples. From one fourth to one half a pound of prunes will be needed; the quantity is largely a matter of taste. The same quantity of chopped dates or figs, stewed with a little water, may be used. "MOTHER'S APPLE PIE" Fill the space between the crusts with apples, sliced thin, round- ing up the slices so as to make a very fidl pie; add two or three tablespoonfuls of water and bake in a slow oven. When done, with a sharp knife, cut aroimd the pie between the two crusts and care- fully Uit off the upper crust. To the apples add half a cup or more of sugar, a few grains of salt, a tablespoonful of butter, and a grat- 440 PRACTICAL CXX)KING AND SERVING ing of nutmeg; mix thoroughly with a silver spoon or knife, spread evenly over flie crust, replace the upper crust, pressing it down to meet the apple, if necessary, and sift powdered sugar over the top. Serve when slightly cooled with cream and sugar. PRUNE PIE. (CHICOPEE, MASS., RECIPE) i pound of prunes. The juice of half a lemon. J cup of sugar. J teaspoonful of salt. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. Let the primes soak in cold water over night; stew until tender, let cool, and remove the stones. Arrange them in the crust, add the sugar, butter, lemon juice, salt, flour, and juice from the prunes, which should have been reduced in cooking the prunes. Three fourths cup of sugar is better. QREEN T04UT0 PIE Greoi tomatoes. The juice of haii a. lemoo. § cup or more of sugar. i tableepoonful of butter. A few grains of salt Slice the tomatoes into the under crust, add the other ingredients, cover with past« and cook as an apple pie. CRANBERRY PIE Beat two eggs imtil whites and yolks are well mixed; beat into these one cup of sugar, and then one cup of cranberries, cut in halves, and a scant half a teaspoonful of salt. Bake with two crusts. CRANBERRY PIE OR MOCK CHERRY PIE CSiop together one cup of cranberries and half a cup of raisiufi; add one cup of sugar and two tabl^poonfuls of flour, mixed to- geth«r, then half a cup of cold water. Bake with two crusts. CRANBERRY PIE, NO. 2 Mix one fourth cup of cornstarch with two cups of sugar; pour over one cup of boiling water and stir until boiling, then add half a cup of molasses, half a teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of butter, and one quart of cranberries, chopped fine. Bake with LEMON FANCBONltf IB 441 two crusts. This quantity will suffice for two pies. Or cook the filling fifteen minutes and finish as "Pie with One Crust, No. 2," page 438. PINEAPPLE PIE (TWO CRUSTS) Mix together thoroughly one fourth cup of flour and three fourths cup of sugar; add one cup of grated pulp and juice of pineapple; stir and cook until the mixture boils and becomes thick, then remove from the fire and add one egg, well beaten. PINEAPPLE FANCHONETTES (RICH) Beat together three eggs, one fourth teaspoonful of salt, two thirds cup of sugar, half a cup of grated pineapple, and the grated rind and juice of half a lemon; turn the mixture into patty pans lined with plain pastry, and bake in a moderate oven. When partly cold remove from the pans, co^r with a meringue and retxun to the oven about eight minutes. Fit the paste to one pan, remove and cut from paper an exact pattern, by which the others may be cut. If small fluted tins are used, press the paste lightly, but closely, to the tin, so that when removed from the tins the paste will be per- fect in shape. Tins for pastry do not require to be buttered or oiled. For lemon fanchonettes use half a cup of lemon juice. LEMON FANCHONETTES Invert "patty pans" and cover the outside with plain or puff- paste; prick the paste on the top and sides with a fork, set the small tins on a baking-sheet and thoroughly bake the crust. Remove from the tins and fill with lemon filling. Beat the whites of two eggs until dry, add gradually two tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar, then fold in lightly two tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar; spread the meringue over the tops of the fanchonettes. Brown delicately in a very slow oven. LEMON FILLING (FOR FANCHONETTES) Moisten two tablespoonfuls and a half of cornstarch with a little cold water and stir into a cup of boiling water; let boil two or three minutes, then cook over hot water (double-boiler)ten minutes; add a teaspoonful of butter and a cup of sugar; remove the mixture from the fire, add the juice of a large lemon (grated rind also, if desired) and the yolks of two eggs, well beaten. 442 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING LEMON CUSTARD PIE Beat the yolks of three eggs imtU light and thick; add gradually one cup of fine granulated sugar and, one at a time, the unbeaten whites of two eggs. Beat one fourth cup of butter to a cream and add to this, gradually, the egg mixture, also the juice of two small lemons, together with the grated rind of one. Cook, stirring constantly, over hot water until the mixture thickens; set aside to cool, while the crust is baked over an inverted tin plate. Prick the paste here and there with a fork, that it may rise evenly. When baked slide from the tin on to a plate, pour in the filling, cover with a meringue, and serve when thoroughly cold. ORANGE PIE. (MRS. COL. DIMON) Cream one fourth cup of butter; add three fourths cup of sugar, the juice of an orange and half the grated rind, together with the juice of half a lemon; beat until light, then add iJie beaten yolks of three eggs and the white of one, beaten until light. Bake with one crust. When partly cooled cover with a meringue made of the stifiE-beaten whites of two eggs, to which three level table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar have been added gradually, and then two tablespoonfuls of sugar folded in. Brown delicately in the oven. FILLING FOR PUMPKIN PIE Select a sweet pumpkin; they are small in size, and of a deep yellow color. Cut in halves, remove the seeds, cut in rings, remove the rind, and cut in small pieces. Steam until the pumpkin is soft and the water nearly evaporated. A slow fire is needed for the last part of the process, which is quite lengthy. Press the pulp through a sieve. To each cup and a half of the prepared pumpkin add one cup of milk and half a cup of rich, sweet cream, scalded, one egg, well beaten, a generous half cup of sugar, and one fourth teaspoonful, each, of salt and mace. Mix together- thoroughly. Bake slowly. PUMPKIN FANCHONETTES Mix together one cup and a half of dry, sifted pumpkin, half a cup of sugar, two eggs, slightly beaten, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, one tablespoonful of ginger, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, a scant half a teaspoonful of RHUBARB PIE 443 salt and one cup of rich milk. Four into small tins, lined vith pastry, and bake about twenty-five minutes. If baked as a pie forty-five minutes in the oven will be needed. SQUASH PIE. (MRS. TRACEY, N. Y.) I cup of sifted squash. J teaspoonful of salt. I cup of sugar. i cup of double cream. Cinnamon, ginger, mace or 3 eggs beaten without separating. Nutmeg as desired. 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy Mix the ingredients and bake in a plate lined with puff-paste. Reheat before serving. SQUASH PIE, NO. 2 Mix together one cup of steamed and strained squash, half a cup, each, of milk and cream, half a cup of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, one fourth teaspoonful of mace, or cinnamon, and one whole egg and the yolk of another, or half a cup of cracker crumbs. Bake in a plate, lined with pastry, about forty minutes. CUSTARD PIE Beat four eggs until a spoonful can be held; add half a teaspoon- ful of salt and two thirds cup of sugar, beat again and when well mixed beat in two cups and a half of milk. Turn into a deep plate, lined with pastry as for pumpkin pie. Bake in a slow oven until the custard is firm in the centre. FIQ PIE Cook half a pound of figs, cooked and chopped fine, with the water in which they were cooked, reduced to half a cup, and half a cup of cider, until smooth; turn into a plate lined with pastry; when baked cover with a meringue and return to the oven to cook the meringue. Boiled cider or lemon juice may be used instead of the uncooked cider. A little sugar may be required in some cases. RHUBARB PIE Bake the crust on an inverted pie plate (see page 438). To pre- pare the fillin g, cut the rhubarb into inch lengths; put a layer into a saucepan and sprinkle with sugar; add other layers of rhubarb 444 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING and sugar and cxiok till tender using one cup of sugar to each pound of rhubarb. To each scant pint of cooked rhubarb add the juice of half a lemon and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs; pour the mixture into the baked crust, and set in the oven until the eggs have thickened the mixture. Spread a meringue made of the two whites of eggs over the top of the rhubarb and brown delicately in the oven. BERRY PIES (FRESH BERRIES) To a scant pint of berries add two tablespoonfuls of flour, half a cup or more of sugar, and a scant half a teaspoonful of salt; roix and put into the plate lined with pastry; add bits of butter here and there, finish with a second crust and set to cook in a hot oven. All pies should be started in a hot oven, to cook the imder crust before it becomes moistened, then reduce the heat. Thus cooked, if the lower crust lie loosely on the plate, and the upper crust is not stretched over the filling, the juice will not run out. BERRY PIES (PRESERVED FRUIT) Pies xdth canned berries are usually made in the same way as those with fresh fruit. When preserves are used, the pastry, either plain or puff-paste, should be cooked before the filling is added. DATE PIE Remove the seeds from the dates; stew in a small quantity of water imtil soft enough to strain through a colander. To one cup and a half of date pulp, add one egg, beaten slightly, a scant hatt teaspoonful, each, of salt and cinnamon, and one cup and a half of milk. Bake with an imder crust only. MIXTURE FOR MINCE PIES 4 pounds of cooked beef, chopped 2 pounds of suet, chopped fine. fine. By measure, twice the quantity of I pound of sugar. chopped apple. I quart of molasses. 3 pints of boiled cider. 4 quinces, chopped fine, or J pound of citron, cut fine, a glasses of quince jelly. 2 pounds of currants. 3 pounds of large seedless raisins. 2 lemons, juice and grated rind. 6 oranges, juice and grated rind. i grated nutmeg. I tablespoonful, each, of ground i teaspoonful of ground cloves. cinnamon and mace, About two tablespoonfuls of salt, i PUFF-PASTE 44S Let the meat cool in the water in which it waa cooked; add the other ingredients and, if more liquid is needed, use the broth from the meat. Fill the crust without previously cooking the mixtiu:e. Heat the rest of the mixture gradually, stirring often; let simmer an hour, then store in fruit jars as canned fruit. Puff-paste is quite often used for the upper crust of mince pies. When baked, brush over the crust with yolk of egg diluted with a little milk, sprinkle with sugar and return to the oven to glaze. Bake a gen- erous hour. MINCE MEAT 3 pounds of uncooked steak, top of 2 tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, the round. i^ pounds of kidney suet. 5 pounds of pared and cored i teaspoonful of cloves. apples. I pound of raisins. 2 tablespoonfuls of mace. i pound of currants. I tablespoonful of salt. 3 pints of boiled cider. li pints of molasses. i potmd of sugar. i pound of citron. i nutmeg. 6 oranges. 2 lemons. Syrup from sweet pickle jar, jelly and preserves ad libitum. Pass the meat, the suet, and the apples through the food chopper, and add the other ingredients: the raisins seeded, currants cleaned, and citron cut in thin slices. Use the grated rind and juice of the oranges. Mix thoroughly. Make up several pieswithout previ- ously cooking the mixture. Bake an hour in a moderate oven. Scald and store the remainder in fruit jars. PUFF-PASTE Wash thoroughly a mixing bowl, and the hands, or a wooden spatula, first in hot, then in cold water. Fill die bowl with cold water or let stand under the faucet and work in the water half a potmd, or one cup, of butter, untU it becomes smooth and pliable; then pat, until it is absolutely free from water, and shape into a flat, square cake. If the room be cool, do not chiU the butter on Ice, since the use of ice is to be avoided if possible. Sift together ' half a pound, or two cups, of flour and one fourth teaspoonful of salt; reserve two spoonfuls of flour in the dredger for dusting the board, mix the flour to a dough, toss on the board and knead until smooth and elastic; cover and let stand from three to five minutes, then pat and roll out into a rectangular shape. 446 PRACTICAL CCX)KING AND SERVING Put the piece of butter in the centre of the lower half of the paste and fold the other half over it, letting the edge "a" fall on "b." Press the edges together closely on the open side and ends to keep , Butter Fig. I in the air. Figure 2 now represents the paste; the butter beneath a layer of paste. represents a Fig. 2 Fold the end marked " i " under, and the end marked " 2 " over the paste, enclosing the butter, and press the edges together closely. Cover and let stand from three to five minutes. Turn the paste halfway round, pat gently with the pin, thus pressing the paste together in ridges and breaking up into smaller bubbles the enclosed air; roll out into a long strip, keeping the butter en- closed in the paste and the ends and sides even, as herein, in large measure, lies the success of the undertaking. Figs BAKING PUFF-PASTE 447 over "3," and "2" over "i," making three even layers with straight edges; press the edges together and turn the paste halfway round, so as to roll in the opposite direction. Since the butter was enclosed, the paste has been rolled into a long strip and folded "in three." This rolling and folding is called "giving it one turn." Repeat until the paste has been given six turns. Each time, before rolling the paste, turn it halfway round, having an open end toward you, so as to roll the paste from a diSerent side each time. Cut out as desired, and let chill thor- oughly on ice; it will take about half an hour. Bake on the lower floor of the oven. This gives a pastry in which the layers are very distinct. If two tablespoonfuls of butter be worked into the flour before the water is added, a tender crust will result; but the layers will not be dis- tinct as by the first method. In rolling out the paste, take care lest the butter penetrate the dough. As long as the paste slips upon the board or slab, it is in good condition. Never roll back and forth, as the motion will break the bubbles of air, which are to give the paste its lightness. The folding of the paste gives the layers; the cold air enclosed, on expanding in the heat of the oven, gives the lightness. If the room be cool, this condition may be easily secured; in winter the paste may be quickly made, and without the use of ice. But if the paste does not slip on the slab and shows signs of soften- ing, it should be folded in a napkin and chilled in a pan set between two pans of ice. Having been chilled once, it will require chilling between each two " turns," or, in the case of a novice, after each turn. BAKING PUFF-PASTE Ice-cold pastry and a very hot oven, especially on the bottom, are prime requisites when light puff-paste is the article under con- sideration. When properly made and set upon the hot floor of the oven, the sudden expansion of the cold air enclosed between the layers sends up the paste. The top of the paste needs be protected from the heat above by a paper or sheet of tin, until the paste has attained its full height. Paste, cut one fourUi an inch thick, should rise about two inches in height. Turn, if necessary, that it may rise evenly. To avoid burning on the bottom, when tiie paste is well risen, very gently push a second sheet under that on which the paste is baking. 448 PBACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING SMAPINQ AND BAKING VOL-AU-VENTS Vol-au-vents are generally shaped in one of three ways, each of which has its advocates. VOL-AU=VENT WITH RIM Have the paste rolled out into a sheet half an inch thick; with a charlotte mould as a pattern mark out upon it an oval of the size desired; then with a sharp knife, dipped in hot water, cut out the pastry, lay on a piece of double paper on a baking-sheet. Cut out a second piece of paste of same iJiickness and size; then, with a small charlotte mould as guide, cut out the centre, leaving a rim an inch and a quarter wide; brush the edge of the first paste with cold water and press the rim upon it. Set aside to chill. Bake about an hour. (See Baking of Puff-Paste.) Roll out the pieces, cut out in making the rim, to the size of the other pieces of paste, giving it the same shape; ornament this with figures cut from the trimmings and brush over the imder side of each bit of paste with water before pressing it in place; chill and bake about twenty-five minutes. This will serve for a cover. VOL-AU-VENT BAKED IN ONE PIECE Roll the paste to the thickness of one inch nearly, and cut out in the shape desired; then with the point of a sharp knife, wet in hot water, cut halfway through, an inch and a qaurter from the edge, all around the paste; brush the top with beaten yolk of egg, or beaten egg, chill and bake. Remove the centre carefully and set aside. Serve with or without this piece as the cover. Care- fully remove any uncooked paste before filling the vol-au-vent. VOL-AU-VENT BAKED OVER A FORM For a large vol-au-vent make two poimds of puff-paste, using three fourths pound of butter to a pound of floxir. Roll one third of this into a sheet (oval or round as suits the fancy) one third an inch thick, and trim to the desired shape and size. Scallop the edge or leave it plain. Put the paste upon the baking-sheet and spread over it a large piece of cheesecloth. Roll excelsior into small balls and place Siese closely together on the cloth, about three inches from the edge, one layer above another, and each layer PATTY SHELLS 44S) smaller than the one below, to give shape to the vol-au-vent. Pin the cloth smoothly about these, then roll out the rest of the paste into a sheet one fourth an inch thick. Cut off two or three^ourth inch ribbons of paste, also crescent and diamond shaped pieces for decoration, and roll the rest of the paste a little thinner, then spread it over the cloth filled with excelsior — first lightly scoring the paste all round about six inches from the centre to indicate a cover — trim the paste to meet loosely the under crust, brush with water and press the upper crust firmly upon it. Brush the crust on both sides of scoring with cold water, and press upon it the ribbons of paste. Brush the under sides of the crescent and diamond shaped pieces of cold water, and put them in place inside of the ribbons. Let chill half an hour on ice, then put into a hot oven, protecting the top of the pie. When well risen, reduce the temperature of the oven and bake, in all, aboiit forty minutes. When cooled slightly, with a sharp knife cut around the crust, in the scorings between the ribbons, and take off the cover. Draw the pin from the cloth, and remove the excelsior, the doth and aay uncooked paste. When ready to serve, reheat and fill with chicken or game heated in a hot sauce. Chicken may be in large pieces, from which the bones have been taken, or in cubes of the size used in filling patty cases. Three chickens will be needed to fill a pie of this size. If the pie is to be served cold, it may be fiUed with bits of chicken and aspic jelly. The jeUy should be cold, but not quite set, when it is turned into the pie alternately with the meat. Cubes of toAgue and cooked mushrooms may also be added. PATTY SHELLS Roll the paste to one fourth an inch in thlckneee; cut into rounds with a fiuted or plain cutter, dipped in Soxa; cut out the centres from half the rounds, brush over the edges of the whole rounds with cold water and preee the rings upon them; dilU on ice or in a cool pkoe and bake about twenty-five minuter (See Baking of Puff-Paste.) Bake the centres cut from the rings for covers. French patty cutters are purchasable that will give a dean, sharp cut (one edge cuts the rounds, the other the centres giving the rings). The paste may be rolled half an inch thick; cut in rounds, then cut halfway through these with the small cutter. When baked lift off the inner paste for a cover and remove any uncooked paste heaeath b^ore fining. 450 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING ORANQE CROUTONS Cut small rounds from puff-paste, chill and bake; spread orange curd between each two, sandwich fashion: sprinkle the top with powdered sugar or cover with confectioner's or water frosting. (Page 424.) ORANQE CURD J cup of butter. i cup of sugar. The juice and grated rind of one 2 ounces of candied orange peel if orange. desired. The yolks of three eggs. Melt the sugar and butter; add the juice and grated rind, and when hot stir gradually into the yolks, beaten thick; stir and cook until the mixture thickens, use hot or cold. BANBURY TARTS I cup of raisins. i cup of sugar. } pound of citron. The juice and grated rind of one 1 egg. lemon. Stone the raisins and chop with the citron very fine; add the grated rind and juice of the lemon, also the sugar, crumbs and egg, slightly beaten. Roll puff-paste one eighth an inch thick and cut in rounds be- tween three and four inches in diameter. Put a little of the mixture on each piece; moisten one half the edge with cold water and fold over the pastiy , pressing the dry edge upon the half that is moist- ened very closely. Bake about twenty-five minutes in a slow oven. A cracker, pounded fine, and the juice (only) of a second lemon may be added. This gives a less rich mixture. LADY>LOCKS Roll puff-paste one eighth an inch thick and cut in long strips three fourths an inch wide; wind around wooden lady-lock sticks or forms, leaving a narrow space between the lines of paste; trim the ends even with the sticks. Bake on a tin in a slow oven; re- move the curls from the sticks and when cool fill with whipped cream, sweetened and Savored before whipping. MIRLITONS 4SI VIENNA WHIPPED CREAM ROLL. (COOK'S RESTAURANT) Roll puff-paste into strips four inches wide. Butter tin or bard- wood cylinders about one inch in diameter and four inches long. Cut the strips of paste into pieces to fit the cylinders. Brush over one side of each piece of paste with white of egg or water, and press this side upon the first upon the cylinder, so that when baked and removed from the tin hollow cylinders of paste will be formed. Bake on a tin sheet in a slow oven. When cold cover the outside with chocolate frosting (confectioner's, boiled, or fondant) and when ready to serve fill the centres with sweetened and flavored cream, beaten stiff. CHEESE BOUCH^ES Bake small patties of puff-paste, about an inch and a half in diameter. When ready to serve, reheat and fill with the following cheese preparation: Sprinkle the cheese with fine-chopped parsley and replace the covers (pieces of paste cut out to form the patties, or the centres removed after the patties are baked). Serve very hot as a "savory," either at the beginning or end of dinner. CREAM CHEESE FOR BOUCHE'ES Let half a cup of Bechamel sauce (white sauce with chicken stock and cream, half and half, as the liquid), half a cup of cream, a few grains of paprika, and one fourth pound of Cheddar or Gruyere cheese, sliced very thin, stand over hot water until the cheese is melted, then beat thoroughly, and serve at once as filling for bouchees. The addition of one or two beaten yolks of eggi gives a thicker filling. MIRLITONS The yolks of four eggs. i teaspoonful of salt. The whites of two eggs. i teaspoonful of orange extract. } cup of sugar. i cup of melted butter. } pound of crushed macaroons. Powdered sugar. Puff-paste. Beat the yolks, add the sugar, salt, macaroons, extract, and melted butter, then the whites of the eggs, beaten until foamy. Tiun into about thirty tartlet moulds lined with puff-paste, sift powdered sugar over lie top and bake in a slow oven. Serve hoj or cold. 4S« PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING STRAWBERRY VOL-AU-VENT Roll half a pound of puff-paste into a thin sheet. Cut out an oval piece for a bottom and three oval rims, prick with a fork, chill and bake as usual. When baked spread the edge of the bottom piece lightly with strawberry preserves or meringue and press a rim upon it, and so continue imtil the rims are used. Make a meringue with the whites of two eggs and one half cup of sugar, and with this decorate the edges of the case; sprinkle with sugar and return to the oven on a baking-sheet; the heat should be very moderate so that the meringue will not take color in less than six minutes. When the meringue is delicately browned, remove to a serving-dish, and fill the open space with sugared strawberries. Other fruit, either cooked or uncooked, may be used and whipped cream may be added to the top. The pastry may be kept several days after baking, reheating it before filling. STRAWBERRY TARTS Roll puff-paste trimmings into a sheet one third an inch thick, and with a heart-shaped cutter, dipped into hot water, stamp into hearts. Score the top of each piece with a small round cutter, then prick with a fork, let chill and bake as usual. When baked cut out the centres, where they were scored, and fill with sugared berries. Decorate with whipped cream. STRAWBERRY TARTLETS Cut out rounds of puff-paste, and when set in the baking-pan pipe a round of chou paste around the edges. . Pridt the paste with a fork in several places, then bake as usual. When baked fill the centres with fresh strawberries, sugared, or spread with strawberry preserves. Garnish with whipped cream. For twelve tartlets use half the recipe of chou paste. MELBA TARTS Make the pastry in the same manner as for strawberry tartlett. When baked spread the inside with a thin layer of quince mamuk* lade, or use a mixture of two thirds of quince marmalade and one third of English cream. CSee page 461.) APPLE MERINGUE 4S3 COFFEE TARTS Prepare the pastry as for Melba tarts, and fill the open space with coffee cream. Garnish with whipped cream. APPLE OR MINCE PIE, WITH APPLE MERINGUE Bake an apple or mince pie, prepared in the usual manner, hav- ing the upper crust of puff or flaky pastry and rolled out rather thin. Shortly before serving, spread over the pie an apple meringue and set Ae pie into a very moderate oven to cook the meringue. After ten or twelve minutes, increase the heat to color the meringue delicately. Serve the pie soon after removal from the oven. APPLE MERINGUE Peel and grate one large tart apple adding to the pulp, meanwhile, a tablespoonful of lemon juice and a cup of sugar. Beat the whites of two eggs dry, then gradually beat in the sugar and apple and use as indicated above. CHAPTER XIX Puddings and Dessert Dishes "I am glad «bat my Adonis hath a sweet tooth in his head." I liquid and a. Foundation of Puddings, -j starch or ' gelatine. ( lightness, 6. Eggs added for •< consistency, ( food valiie. c. Fruit or equivalent for flavor. d. Suet, butter, cream for richness or whipped cream for lightness. , I in foundation or e. Sweet m some form as sugar or molasses { ' sauce. f. Garnishes. Sweets compose the last course of a dinner or luncheon. In this course are included cake, pastry, and hot and cold puddings, etc., which Thudicum speaks of as the "forerimner of the dessert." In tiiis course also are included custards, charlottes, creams, jellies, and ices, in the preparation of the more delicate of which form is often placed before substance. The dessert proper includes fruit, fresh or preserved, nuts, and bonbons; it is often succeeded by a tiny morsel in the nature of a hot or cold savory, or of cheese. When swpets are presented, himger has been appeased and the dishes should be light in character and elegant in appearance. If more than one dish be presented in this course, as it may be at an elaborate and formal dinner, the more substantial dish precedes the more delicate and the hot precedes the cold dish. Puddings in which suet is used are appropriate only after an otherwise light meal and during cold weather. These and other puddings of similar nature are not in as great demand as formerly, the tendency of the time being in favor of more easily digested sweets. Those in which cream predominates are especial favorites. In the past, the American housewife, as a rule, has paid quite 454 GELATINE 455 as much attention to the sweet as to the substantial part of the dinner, but, with our present pronounced leaning toward French cookery and bills of fare, we are likely in time to give less promi- nence to the sweet course and finish the refection, be it luncheon or dinner, with a salad and bit of cheese. The desserts served so often in this coimtry, in which cream abounds, are rare in France, also in the southern part of the continent. Indeed, except, perhaps, among a certain class in Russia, there is no country where food sup- plies are generally so lavishly used as in the United States. The foundation of hot puddings is liquid and some starchy material, as rice, tapioca, cornstarch, cereal, bread crumbs, etc., etc. The foundation of most cold puddings is the same; or, instead of the starchy principle, gelatine is used to give consistency. To any pudding, hot or cold, eggs may be added for lightness or to increase the consistency or food value; fruit or its equivalent for flavor, suet (in hot), butter or cream for richness; and in cold pud- dings cream is also used for lightness. Two ounces of starchy material or one ounce of gelatine will thicken a pint of liquid. STARCHY MATERIALS Cornstarch, rice, tapioca (minute, quick cooking and "tapioca exotique "), macaroni, and bread crumbs (stale bread passed through a colander) are the principal starchy ingredients in puddings. Tapioca is stirred into the hot liquid and is cooked when it becomes transparent. If grains be used, the pudding is cooked when the grains are tender. If arrowroot, cornstarch, rice flour, etc., are used, these, mixed smoothly with milk or eveifly with sugar, need be cooked in the hot liquid until they clear from the sides of the saucepan. Cooked less, though they may jelly when cold, they have an un- cooked pasty taste. These puddings, though often cooked in the oven, will be smoother and require less attention if they be cooked in a double-boiler and then turned into a buttered bakuig dish and set into the oven for final cooking. GELATINE The gelatuies on the market at the present tune are particularly good. They are practically odorless when heated; if not select a different brand. The granulated gelatines, which may be easily and accurately measured, soften in cold water very quicldy and may 436 PRACTICAL COOKING Al^ SERVING then be dissolved in a little hot water or in the hot mixture. In cold weather gelatine dishes will set in half an hour if exposed to the outer air; in summer ice is essential to quick process, CHOCOLATE The judicious use of chocolate changes many an otherwise homely and unappetizing dessert into a bonne bouche desired by every one. Chocolate for use in cooking is bought in half-pound cakes scored in eight bars or squares, each one of which represents an ounce. Vanilla and cinnamon are the two flavors that best harmonize with chocolate. Stick cinnamon, scalded in the milk, and used as the foundation of any dish in which chocolate is to be used, insures an added richness and spiciness of flavor that is invariably com- mended. Ground cinnamon is often more convenient, but in either case let it be of the best grade. Currant jelly, apricot marmalade, nuts, and candied fruits, steeped in wine, are palatable additions to any dish in which chocolate appears. To use chocolate, put it in a saucepan over hot water, and when melted add a tablespoonful or more of sugar and two or three of boiling water, and stir and boil until a smooth glossy liquid is formed, then add to hot milk or other ingredients. RAISINS AND CURRANTS Raisins may be stoned with a utensil made for the purpose, or with a pair of scissors. They stone more easily after soaking in water a few moments. Sultanas are without seeds and excellent in flavor. FLAVORING Extract and wines used for flavoring, whenever possible, should be added to the preparation after it has been cooked and become cold. Flavors may be considered as luxuries, but used occasionally they afford pleasiure and a simple means of varying an oftentimes monotonous dietary. Only extracts made from fruits and nuts, or the real vanilla bean, should be used. All others are harmful. Select the goods of reliable and well known manufacturers, and use no others. The vanilla bean is sometimes used instead of the extract. Part of a bean is scalded in the liqvud to be flavored, then dried and kept for future use. But as the drying needs be done thoroughly and with care, lest the bean become sour and mouldy, and as uniformity in flavor is not readUy secured, the use of the LINING OF CHARLOTTE MOULDS 457 bean is not advocated. Lemon, orange, rose, and almond extracts are made from the corresponding fruits, flower, and nut. Lemon and vanilla in combination give a pleasing flavor. Orange and almond, or, as some say, vanilla and almond produce a flavor resembling pistachio nuts. The proportions are one fourth of the latter to three fourths of the former. Cordials as maraschino, curajoa and noyau give a delicate and pleasing flavor to any dish to which they may be added. Jamaica rum, sherry, and kirsch of good quality are much used in cooking. In hot dishes, cooking dissipates the small quantity of alcohol which they contain. Of a slightly stimulating character these are thought to be of use in stimulating a sluggish digestion. Mixed with fruit added to frozen desserts they keep the fruit from becoming hard and frozen. Car- amel (see page 30) gives an exceedingly pleasant and agreeable flavor to custards and creams. The intense heat of hquid caramel often causes the milk or cream to whidi it is added, even if scalded, to curdle; when these are to be combined it is advisable to pour a few spoonfuls of boiling water into the caramel and stir until smooth, then pour this into the cream or milk. It is often combined with almonds, giving what is called "burnt almond" flavor. Coffee extract or, better still, fresh made coffee, is a common flavorer and is generally acceptable. Here strength should not be sought for in long steeping or boiling. (See Coffee Making.) LIST OF GARNISHES FOR DESSERTS, ETC Whipped cream. Fruit: fresh, pur&s, compote, canned, or candied (maraschino cherries, cooked figs, prunes, raisins, etc.). Fruit jellies, cut in figures or chopped. Ivory jelly (sweetened cream and gelatine) cut in fanciful shapes. Angelica, cut in pieces, leaves, stems, etc., (green in color). Preserved ginger, whole pieces or slices cut in figures. Preserved cb^tnuts, wlrole or in pieces. Atmonds, ftoachio nut&, Englidi walnuts, and pecan oute. LINING OF MOULDS WITH LADY-FINGERS FOR CHARLOTTE MOULDS Fit a strip of oiled or paraflSne paper into the mould lengthwise, letting the ends hang out over the top; then fit a strip into the mould crosswise, letting the ends hang out as before. Ascertain the l^igth 4S8 PRACTICAL C(X)KING AND SERVING of the lady-finger needed to come just to the top of the mould and trim them all to this length; put the fingers into the mould on the paper with the upper side toward the paper. Let the edges of the fingers just meet or leave a uniform space between them. Care- fully put a spoonful of the charlotte mixture at the base of each finger to hold it in place; straighten the fingers and fill the mould with car*. CHAPTER XX Cold Dessert DishM SYNOPSIS OF CHAPTER ^ _ (simple ]!;!l"''^- a. Custard Composition. / " F>rm. (starchy addition. Liquid. {Simple jellies (fruit juice, wine, etc.). Sponges (jellies+whipped white of egg) Bavaroises (jeUies+ whipped cream+egg«. occasionally). ..Charlotte Compositions. i Cake+whipped cr^m. I Cake+sponges or Bavaroises. d. Combination of above. e. Syllabubs, Whips, etc. Cream or cream and eggs whipped. f. Junkets. Milk thickened with rennet principle. CUSTARDS Custards are compositions, in which lightly cooked milk and eggs predominate; in custard of the first quality nothing else save sugar, salt, and flavoring is added. In preparations of inferior quality starchy materials take the place of a part of the eggs. TWO FORMS OF CUSTARD Custards are of two main characteristics — i. e., firm or liquid. Firm custards are cooked while standing undisturbed in hot water; liquid custards are stirred during the entire process of cooking, the dish holding the ingredients standing meanwhile in hot water; in both cases the heat required is lower than that of boiling water. Custard is properly cooked when the egg is "set" by the heat just enough to insure a smooth, tender, jelly-like consistency through ■ 459 46o PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING out. A custard that curdles, or wheys, or is full of holes (eithej large or small), has been cooked at too high a temperature. A firm custard is cooked when, on touching the centre, it seems lightly set and somewhat firm. All custards become more solid on cooling. PROPORTION OF EQQ TO MILK The degree of firmness to which a firm custard will set in cooking depends upon the proportion of eggs and milk; foiu* eggs to a quart of milk, or one to each cup of milk, gives a custard of delicate consistency; this custard needs be served from the dish or cup in which it is baked. For a custard firm enough to tiun from a mould the number of eggs needs be multiplied by two. Royal custard, which is cut in slices and then stamped into figures, for use in con- somme or other clear soup, calls for one egg to each tablespoonful of liquid. Whole eggs, whites or yolks of eggs alone, are used in custards, but the richest and finest grained custard results when the yolks of eggs predominate. A firm custard in which yolks are used alone breaks very easily, and it is considered safer, if the custard is to be turned from the mould, to bake it in small dariole moulds or to include a few whites in the mixture. Two yolks count as one egg. In a liquid custard all yolks are preferable, unless the whites, beaten until very foamy, be added at the last to give a fluffy tex- ture, considered so desirable in some dishes. As eggs are added to custards simply for thickening or richness, and not to produce lightness, they are beaten but little. LIQUID OR BOILED CUSTARD I pint of hot milk. J cup of sugar. 3 to 6 yolks of eggs. | teaspoonful of vanilla. i teaspoonful of salt. Beat the yolks of eggs slightly; add the sugar and salt and beat again; dilute with a little of the hot milk and, when well blended, return the whole to the hot milk and cook and stir until the mixture thinly coats the spoon; then strain at once into a cold dish. In preparing a liquid custard, a double-boiler or its equivalent is a positive necessity, and a fine strainer of some kind is essential to nice results. The mixture coats the spoon when it is at the con- sistency of honey and covers the tip and back of the spoon lightly. Add the flavoring when the custard is cold. Custard made with UTENSILS FOR CAKE-MAKING. (See page 390.) CAKE TINS— SPONGE, LEMON QUEEN, LAYE-^. ETC. SPONGE CAKE WITH POTATO FLOUR HI nn ^ ^^B ^W IHI ^^^^^Mi^^ ■'•j_^'**i^^r^®*^ *w^t^^ ^3^^^^^^l ^H^^i.^ xj^;^!^ M 1 "^Tfiftiiii n CHRISTMAS WREATHS COFFEE ROLLS FROM BRIOCHE ENGLISH CREAM 461 three yolks to a pint of milk is used as a sauce. More yolks are required when the custard is to be served in cups. BOILED CUSTARD, NO. 2 I pint of milk. | cup of sugar. The yolks of three to six eggs. The whites of three eggs. i teaspoonful of salt. i teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Prepare the custard as above, and, just before removing from the fire, fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten until very foamy, but not dry. Caramel, coffee, and chocolate give variety in flavor. ENGLISH CREAM (CUSTARD) I pint of milk. | teaspoonful of salt. The yolks of two or three eggs, § cup of sugar. or one whole egg. J teaspoonful of vanilla extract. I teaspoonful of cornstarch. Mix the cornstarch with a part of the sugar — the quantity of cornstarch may be doubled — and stir into tiie hot milk; stir until the mixture thickens and then, occasionally, for fifteen minutes. Beat the egg, add the sugar and salt and beat again, then stir into the hot mixture; let cook a few moments, stirring constantly, until the egg seems cooked, then strain and flavor when cold. Stir occasionally while cooling to avoid the formation of a crust. ENGLISH CREAM (CUSTARD) NO. 3 (used FOR FILLING ECLAIRS, CREAM CAKES AND PIES) I pint of hot milk. s eggs or four yolks of eggs. I cup of flour i cup of sugar. i cup of sugar J teaspoonful of vanilla. i teaspoonful of salt. Mix or sift together the flour, salt, and half cup of sugar; dilute with the hot milk, then cook and stir over hot water tmtil the mixture thickens; then cool, stirring occasionally, for fifteen min- utes; beat the egg, add the rest of the sugar and stir into the hot mixture; stir until the egg looks cooked, then cool and flavor. One fourth cup of clear black coffee may be substituted for the same quantity of milk, or an ounce of chocolate, cooked with two table- ■poonfids, each, of sugar and water, may be added to the milk. 463 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING ST. HONORE CREAM (CUSTARD) (for use in ST. HONORE CAKE, CEEAM CAKES, ECLAIRS, EXC.) I pint of milk. Grated rind of lemon. } cup of flour. The yolks of six eggs. 1 cup of sugar. The whites of six eggs. i teaspoonful of salt. Prepare as English cream No. 2, adding the grated rind of lemon with the flour and the whites of eggs, beaten stiff, at the last. ST. HONORE CAKE Cut out a round of pastry, either chopped or flaky, about ten inches in diameter, dispose on a baking-sheet and brush over tha edge with cold water. Have ready some chou paste. (See Eclairs in chapter on Cake.) With a forcing-bag and plain tube half an inch in diameter press a circle of chou paste upon the edge of the pastry, to form a border; prick the round of pastry with a fork and brush over the chou paste with beaten egg. Bake in an oven with strong heat below about twenty minutes. Make small roxmd cakes with the rest of the paste and bake until they feel light when taken in the hand. Boil a cup of sugar and half a cup of water to the crack stage (it will be sUghtly yellow or caramel color), dip the small cakes, one by one, into the candy and arrange them sym- metrically upon the border of the cake; dip preserved cherries, one by one, into the hot candy and dispose on the top of each cake. Fill the centre with cold St. Honore or frangipanni cream, piling it high in the centre. Serve very cold. CHOCOLATE CUSTARD WITH SNOW EGOS 2 ounces of chocolate. "The yolks of six eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. | cup of sugar. , 3 tablespoonfuls of boiling water. f teaspoonful of vanilla. 3 cups of hot milk. Lady-fingers. 3 teaspoonfuls of cornstarch. Snow eggs (page 474). Cook the chocolate, sugar, and water until glossy; add to th& hot milk and finish as in recipe for English cream. Use the whites of the eggs for the snow eggs. This may be served without the lady-fingers in sherbet cups, a snow egg on the top of the custard in each cup and the egg sprinkled wiUi candied cherries, chopped fine. CUP CUSTARDS ' 463 TIPSY PUDDING Cut a stale sponge cake in slices and with them line a glass serv- ing-dish; sprinkle the slices with Jamaica rum, or with sherry or other wine, then spread over them a layer of jam or preserved fruit; add other layers of cake and preserves until the dish is full. Pom: over the whole a quart of cold, rich, boiled custard, flavored with vanilla. Garnish the dish with whipped cream, meringue or snow eggs. Often an ounce of softened gelatine is dissolved in the hot custard, and the layers of cake and preserves are congealed in the custard; then the rest of the custard is added without cake and, before serving, the cream or meringue is added. FLOATINQ ISLAND The whites of five eggs. i cup of prune, fig, date or other } cup of sugar. purfe, or crushed almoods and i teaspoonful oi cream-of '^ other nuts, tartar. Boiled custard. Beat the eggs imtil foamy; add the cream-of-tartar and beat until dry, adding meanwhile the fruit or nuts. The fruit should have been fine-(±opped and cooked to a smooth puree with a little water. Turn the mixture into a large, handsome, well-buttered mould and cook in a steamer without boiling the water about twenty minutes. The mixture often rises enormously and the mould needs be very large. When cold unmould in a deep dish and surround with a cold boiled custard. In cooling, the meringue contracts, and is unmoulded easily. The texture is very delicate, and the flavor, produced by steaming, is peculiar, but most agreeable. FIRM CUSTARDS CUP CUSTARDS (SERVED IN BAKING DISH) 4 eggs. A grating of nutmeg. f cup of sugar. i quart of milk. i teaspoonfiil of salt. Beat the eggs until the yolks and whites are well mixed; add the sugar, salt, nutmeg, and milk, and stir imtil the sugar is dissolved, then strain into buttered cups or a baking dish. Cook standing on several folds of paper, or on a trivet untS the centre is firm. 464 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING MAPLE CUSTARD 6 whole eggs, or three whole eggs i teaspoonful of salt, and six yolks. 3 cups of milk. ^ cup of heavy maple syrup. Make and bake as above. Baked in cups, this custard may be turned from the cups when cold. CHOCOLATE CUSTARD PUDDING 3 ounces of chocolate. ^ i quart of milk. 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 7 eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of hot water. i cup of sugar. i teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. § teaspoonful of salt. I teaspoonful of vanilla. Sugar and vanilla for meringue. Add the sugar, melted chocolate, hot water, and cinnamon, cooked until glossy, to the milk; beat the eggs, omitting the whites of three, add the cup of sugar, salt, and vanilla and strain into a but- tered baking dish. Bake as usual and cover with a meringue made of the whites of the eggs, reserved for this puipose, and one tJbird cup of powdered sugar. Return to the oven for about eight minutes to brown the meringue. Serve cold. BAKED CUSTARD RENVERSEE OR CREAM VERSAILLES I quart of milk. f teaspoonful of salt. 8 eggs, or § cup of sugar. 4 whole eggs and eight yolks. i cup of sugar. Cook the cup of sugar in a small saucepan over a hot fire, stirring constantly until the sugar melts and becomes light brown in color. The sugar, aa it is stirred, will first resemble flake tapioca, then gradually melt and become brown. The pan needs be lifted oc- casionally, to prevent burning. As soon as the sugar is melted, turn into a three-pint mould, or into two moulds of smaller size. With a towel in both hands tip the mould from side to side tp coat the inside with the caramel. The mould must be handled quickly, as the caramel hardens quickly. Set the mould aside, while the custard is prepared. The caramel will crackle, but this is no dis- advantage, and the mould thus prepared may be kept any length of time. Prepare the custard as usual and strain into the mould. Bake as any custard, on heavy folds of paper, and surroimd with FRIED GUSTARD 465 hot water. When cold turn from the mould on to the serving- dish. The caramel will form a sauce aroimd the custard This is one of the most delicious dishes in a cook's repertoire. Two ounces of melted chocolate cooked with a little melted sugar and water may be added to the milk of which the custard is made. Or the caramel may be melted in a little boiling water and used in the custard, instead of sugar, thus giving caramel custard. CHESTNUT CUSTARD I cup of chestnut pur€e. | teaspoonful of vanilla. 3 eggs. 4 tablespoonluls of sugar for I cup of milk. meringue. } cup of sugar. Add the beaten eggs — omitting the whites of two — gradually, to the chestnut pulp (chestnuts cooked and sifted), also the sugar, vanilla, and milk, and bake in a buttered mould. Make a meringue of the whites of the two eggs, reserved for the purpose, and the sugar. Spread over the custard and return to the oven to color the meringue. This custard is improved by a sprinkling of chopped cherries below the meringue. CHESTNUT RENVERSEE Bake the above mixture in a mould lined with caramel. (See Custard Renversee.) Half a cup of sugar will make caramel enough to line a mould for this custard. PINEAPPLE CUSTARD I pound of grated pineapple. i cup of milk. I pound of sugar. 3 eggs. I pound of butter. Beat the butter to a cream, add the sugar gradually, then the beaten eggs, the pineapple, preiiously scalded, and the cup of milk. Bake in a moderate oven, either with or without a crust. Serve from the dish in which it is baked. FRIED CUSTARD 4 whole eggs. 6 or 8 macaroons. The yolks of two eggs. J cup of candied fruit. § cup of sugar. i egg and white bread crumbs. I pint of milk. 466 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Butter and sugar a dozen moulds having about half the height of timbale moulds. Six-sided moulds are preferable. Sprinkle the bottom of the moulds with the fruit, cut in one fourth inch squares and washed in hot water, and cover with a little powdered macaroons; strain in a little custard mixture made of the other in- gredients, let stand a few moments, then finish filling the moulds. Cook as usual surrounded by hot water; when cool, immould, egg- and-bread-cnmib and fry a golden color in deep fat. Serve with Sabayon sauce. JELLIES As simple hot puddings are made by thickening nailk or fruit juice with a stardiy material, and the more complex varieties, by adding eggs, some form of fat, fruit, and flavors, so simple cold puddings may be prepared in the same way, and also by thicken- ing the liquid with gelatine. When stiff beaten whites of eggs or cream are added, a spongy texture is produced and a more complex pudding results. Thickening with a starchy material was taken up under hot puddings, and we will consider now the thickening of liquids with gelatine. In desserts, fruit juice, wine or milk are the liquids that are to be jellied. When fresh fruits are employed: (i) the juice alone may be used and we have simple fruit jelUes; (2) the juice and pulp, freed from seeds and membrane, are used, and the resulting dish is called pain, as with strawberries pain de /raises; or (3) juice and whole sections of the same or other fruits and nuts may be combined in one dish, and we have a macedoine of fruits. PROPORTION OF GELATINE TO LIQUID It is claimed that two ounces of gelatine — the quantity put up in most packages — will jelly two quarts of liquid, but unless one has made sure of this by actual trial of the particular brand used, It IS safer to allow a little for advertising and cut down the quan- tity one cup. In summer also, when comparatively heavy pieces of fruit or other material are to be held up in the jelly, allow three pmts of liquid to two ounces of gelatine. TO BRINQ OUT AND RETAIN FRUIT FLAVORS, ETC. More water should form a part of the hquid to be jelUed, when the juice, from which the jelly takes its name, is strong in flavor, as in fcmon and red raspberry jmces. The characteristic flavor of aU LEMON JELLY 467 jellies made of wine or fruit is accentuated or brought out more perfectly, if the juice of a lemon be used for each quart of jelly. In the same way jdlies made from many fruit juices are thought to be improved, if they be "pointed" with a tablespoonful or two of wine. With the exception of pineapple juice, which contains a vegetable pepsin that digests proteid substances, and hence needs be scalded before it is combined with milk, eggs or gelatine, fruit juices when avoidable should not be heated, lest their volatile flavor and aroma be lost. If gelatine be heated to the boiling point, or even near that point, a disagreeable odor and flavor will often be brought out. After having been softened in cold water, according to Uie time noted on the package, dissolve by adding it to the hot preparation, or by the addition of a little hot water, or by setting ^e dish in another filled with hot water. USES OF FRUIT AND WINE JELLIES Besides their use as dessert dishes, served with cream, custard or fruit pur&s, fruit and wine jellies are moulded and used with cold desserts in the same manner as aspic jelly is moulded and used with entrees. DOUBLE MOULDING AND UNMOULDINQ OF JELLIES For double moulding and unmoulding of gelatine dishes see page 250. Jellies and all cold desserts that are not surroimded with cream, etc., or garnished in any way, are immoulded on lace paper. These papers may be purchased in large or individual sizes. RECIPES LEMON JELLY I ounce (^ package) of i cup of sugar. gelatine. i cup of lemon juice. i cup of cold water. 2 cups of boiling water. Soak the gelatine in the cold water, the time required varies with the brand, and add the boiling water and the sugar; stir until dis- solved, and when cool add Uie lemon juice. Strain through a cheesecloth and use as desired. The thin yellow rind of the lemon and an inch of cinnamon bark, one or both, may be steeped in thf boiling water for additional flavor, 468 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING ORANGE JELLY I ounce (i package) of gelatine. The juice of one lemon. I cup of cold water. i pint of orange juice. I cup of sugar (scant). i cup of boiling water. Prepare as lemon jelly, but strain the liquid before adding the orange juice, to retain the little particles of orange pulp. WINE JELLY I ounce G package of i cup of wine (claret, Madeira, sherry gelatine). or champagne). 1 cup of cold water. The juice of one lemon. 2 cups of boiling water. i cup of sugar. Prepare as lemon jelly. When champagne is used cut down the quantity of boiling water to one cup. Cool the liquid before the wine is added. SAUTERNE JELLY I otmce of gelatine. 3 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. § cup of cold water. ij cups of haut sauteme. I J cups of boiling water. Green color paste. I cup of sugar. Prepare as lemon jelly; add color paste to secure a very delicate tint of green. COFFEE JELLY I ounce of gelatine. I cup of sugar. ^ cup of cold water. 2 cups of clear, black coffee. 1 cup of boiling water. Do not use liquid coffee that has been left standing on the grounds. Let the coffee be freshly made. Cereal coffee makes a good jelly, and served with cream is wholesome for children. ORANQE JELLY WITH ORANGE SECTIONS (MACEDOINE OP ORANGES) Make orange jelly. Set a mould in ice and water. Pour in a little jelly. When set arrange upon it sections of orange from which the seeds have been removed. Dip other sections in liquid jelly and place against the chilled sides of the mould. When se* B.\NANA SHORTCAKE. (See page 498.) MUSHROOM MERIXOUES. (Ser payc 420.) SMALL CHOCOLATE CAKES, MARSHMALLOW FROSTING. (See page 412. j RHUBARB JELI.Y AND BANANA CREAM 469 add jelly and sections of orange, alternately, until the mould is filled. When chilled turn from the mould and serve. MACEDOINE OF FRUIT AND NUTS Make orange, lemon or wine jelly. Let a few spoonfuls become " set " in the bottom of a mould. Arrange upon this a design with slices of bananas and blanched almonds, halved. Cover with jelly ; add figs and dates, cut in small pieces, and slices of blanched al- mond, alternately, with jelly, until the mould is filled. Serve sur- rounded with a wreath of whipped cream, sweetened and flavored before whipping. RHUBARB JELLY X pound of rhubarb. Ginger root and lemon peel. I cup of sugar. The juice of one lemon. I ounce of gelatine. J cup of cold water. Cut the rhubarb into pieces an inch in length and put into agate baking dish in alternate layers with the sugar; add the yellow peel of a lemon, and a piece of ginger root and bake imtil the rhubarb is tender, but not broken. Steep the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve by setting in a dish of hot water; then strain into the rhubarb, add the lemon juice and pour into a mould a little at a time, adding more as the preparation stiffens, to avoid the settling of the pieces of rhubarb. Preserved ginger, sliced thin, and a little ginger syrup may take the place of the dry ginger root. This is added after the rhubarb is cooked. Serve with whipped cream. RHUBARB JELLY AND BANANA CREAM Rhubarb jelly as above. i cup of sugar I cup of sifted banana pulp. | package of gelatine. The juice of one half a lemon. i cup of cold water. § cup of orange juice. i cup of cream. Soften the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve in the banana piilp, heated to the scalding point; add the sugar, and when cooledj the orange and lemon juice. Stir, the dish standing meanwhile in ice and water, until the mixture begins to thicken, then fold in the cream, beaten stiff. Mould the cream and jelly in alternate layers. Let each layer become set, but not too solid, before the next one is added. If too solid they will not adhere to each other. The banana mixture is a Bavarian cream. (See page 476.) 470 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING STRAWBERRY JELLY 1 pint of strawberry juice and pulp, f cup of sugar. } two-ounce package of gelatine. The juice of one lemon. f cup of cold water. Crush the berries and pass them through a fine sieve or piece of cheesecloth, thus removing the seeds, wWch are for many people an objectionable feature. Soften the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve by setting the dish in hot water; add the sugar and when cool the lemon and strawberry juice. Mould in a ring mould. Serve with orange sections, freed from membrane and skin, or with whipped cream. IVORY JELLY I ounce of gelatine. I cup of sugar. J cup of cold water. ij cups of double cream. I cup of hot milk. i teaspoonful of vanilla extract A few grains of salt. Soak the gelatine in the cold water, and dissolve in the hot milk; add the salt and sugar and strain. When cool add the cream and vanilla and stir, occasionally, untU the mixture begins to thicken, then pour into a mould. Serve with a fruit puree, chocolate syrup or cream. SHERRY WINE JELLY WITH RAISINS Make once and a half the recipe for wine jelly, using sherry wine; remove the stems and seeds from half a pound of choice imported raisins. If the raisin skins are tough, cook until tender in boiling water and drain and dry on a cloth; then seed carefully to preserve the shape. Strain the water, in which the raisins were cooked, for the hot water needed in making the jeUy. Set a mould in ice, pour in a few spoonfuls of the liquid and let it become firm; arrange on this raisins to form some s3Tnmetrical pattern, and put a few drops of the liquid about each raisin (this as it becomes set will hold them in place) cover with a half-inch layer of jelly, then when firm add more raisins and more jelly, in layers, until the mould is filled. Serve garnished with whipped cream and cubes of jelly moulded without the raisins. CANNED PEACH JELLY i box of gelatine (i ounce). 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy. About I cup of sugar. Hot water as needed. Thejuice of one lemon. J cup of cold water. BLANC MANGE 471 _ Heat the jmce from a can of peaches and add the sugar, the quan- tity depiending upon the amount used in canning; when the sugar is dissolved add the gelatioe, softened by standing in the cold water, and enough hot water to make three cups in all; let cool, then add the lemon juice and brandy. Mould the halves of peaches in the liquid. Serve with cream. Apricots and pears niay be prepared in the same way. STEWED FIQS WITH JELLY AND CREAM 18 whole figs. The juice of one lemon. I cup of liquid. § cup of sherry wine or orange } an ounce of gelatine. juice. J cup of cold water. i cup of powdered sugar. i cup of sugar. i cup of double cream. A few drops of vanilla extract. Wash the figs and cook, until the skin is tender, in boiling water. Drain the figs from the liquid, of which there should be one cup. Soften the gdatine in the cold water, and dissolve in the hot liquid; add the sugar, stir until dissolved and cooled somewhat, then add the lemon juice and wine and strain into a shallow dish. Add the sugar and vanilla to the cream and beat imtil stiff to the bottom of the dish. Dispose the figs in the centre of a glass serving dish and surround with the whipped cream and the jelly, cut in cubes, alter- nating the cream and cubes of jelly. BLANC MANGE 1 ouacee ot sweet almondE. i teaepoonful of vacIUa. 6 bitter almonds. i tVKyoaux package of getodne. I cup^ hot milk. i cup of cream. I pint of milk. i cup of sugar. Blanch the ahnonds and poimd them to a paste with the vaoillA; pour over them the cup of hot milk and let stand an hour, then pass through a very fine sieve or a piece of cheesecloth. Soften the gelatine in half a cup of milk from the pint; scald the rest of the milk and in it dissolve the gelatine and sugar; then strain over the al- mond milk, let cool, and add the cream and more flavoring if iMeded. Stir until beginning to set, then turn into a mould. 473 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING MINT JELLY (to seive with roast lamb) i a package of gelatine. i a teaspoonful of salt. } a cup of cold water. i a teaspoonful of paprika. I cup of granulated sugar. i a cup of mint leaves. I cup of vinegar. Green color paste. Soften the gelatine in the cold water. Boil the sugar and vine- gar five or six minutes, add the softened gelatine, the salt, paprika, mint leaves chopped fine, and color paste to tint as desired. Stir in ice and water until the mixture begins to thicken (that the mint may not settle), then turn into small moulds or wineglasses and set aside to become firm. When turned from the moulds, garnish with tips from fresh stalks of mint. ORANGE CREAM i cup of orange juice. i two-ounce package of gelatine. § cup of sugar i cup of cold water. The yolks of two eggs. li cups of cream. } cup of sugar. Grating of orange rind. Heat the orange juice and haJf a cup of sugar over hot wator; beat the yolks of eggs, add the rest of the sugar and stir and cook in the hot mixture, until the spoon is coated with custard; add the gelatine, softened in the cold water, and strain into the cream; add a grating of yellow orange rind, or a few slices of candied peel, or a teaspoonful of orange extract, and stir over ice water until the mixture begins to stiffen, then turn into a moidd. CASTELLANE PUDDING I pound of French chestnuts. } cup of sugar. I cup of Bugajr. 3 oimces of gelatine^ i cup of water. i cup of cold water. I quart of milk. 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla, eatraet. The yolks of eight eggs. } pound of French fruit. Maraschino. Shell, blanch and cook the chestnuts, then pound in a mortar with the sugar and water, cooked together five minutes, and pass through a sieve. Make a boiled custard with the milk, yolks of eggs, and the half cup of sugar, add the gelatine, softened in the STRAWBERRY SPONGE 473 cold water, and strain into the chestnut mixture. Set into a pan of ice water and beat with a whisk until the mixture begins to set. Let the fruit, half a cup of vanilla chestnuts, pineapple, cherries, etc., all cut in small pieces, stand some time covered with maras- chino. When the mixture begins to set, drain the fruit and put into a mould, alternately, with the chestnut preparation. Let stand until very cold and set. Serve with whole chestnuts, cooked in sjnnip and flavored with vanilla. This amount will serve eighteen people. FRUIT SPONGES (FRUIT AND WINE JELLIES, BEATEN EQQS) QRAPE SPONGE i an ounce of gelatine, or j cup of sugar. i a package. The juice of one lemon. } cup of cold water. Tlie whites of three eggs. I cup of grape juice. Soak the gelatine in the cold water, and dissolve by standing the dish in hot water. Dissolve the sugar in the fruit juice and strain the gelatine into the mixture. Set into ice and water and stir occasionally until the mixture begins to thicken ; then add, gradually, the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and beat until the whole is very light and stiff enough to hold its shape. Pile lightly in a glass serving-dish, and serve very cold with whipped cream, sweetened before whipping. Or the sponge may be moulded and when turned from the mould served with whipped cream or boiled custard. Strawberry, raspberry, or lemon juice, are good substi- tutes for the grape jvdce. STRAWBERRY SPONQE J an ounce of gelatine, or i cup of sugar. i a package. The juice of one lemon. J cup of cold water. i cup of strawberry juice and pulp, J cup of hot water. The whites of three eggs. . Soak the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve in the hot water; add the sugar, stir until dissolved, then strain into a dish standing in ice water; when cool add the strawberry juice and beat until 474 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING light, then beat in, gradually, the whites of the eggs, beaten light, and continue beating until the mixture will hold its shape. Have ready a chilled earthen or agate-ware bowl, lined with strawbemes (cut the berries in halves and dip them in melted gelatine, and they will adhere to the bowl) and turn the sponge into the bowl. Serve, turned from the bowl and garnished with whipped cream and whole strawberries. HAMBURG CREAM, WITH WHIPPED CREAM, ETC. The grated rind and juice of two i package of gelatine. large lemons. i cup of cold water. I cup of sugar. Whipped cream. 8 eggs. Candied cherries. Heat the lemon juice and half the sugar over hot water; beat the yolks of the eggs and add the other half of the sugar; stir and cook the eggs and sugar in the lemon juice and sugar until thick, add the gelatine, softened in the cold water, and when again hot, fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten dry; let stand a moment to cook the whites, then turn into a border mould. When cold unmould and fill the centre with whipped cream. Garnish with a few cherries. This dish is often served in glasses. In this case gelatine is not used. SNOW EQQS Take as many ounces of sugar as whites of eggs (two level table- spoonfuls of sugar make an ounce). Beat the whites until nearly dry, then continue beating, adding the sugar meanwhile, until haft has been used; beat imtil the mixture is very firm, then beat in the other half of the sugar. Dip a tablespoon in boiling water, then fill it with meringue and shape and roimd the mixture in such a manner that there shall be as much meringue above as below the level of the spoon. Remove the mixture to a saucepan of gently boiling water, and let stand where the water will keep hot, but not boil, and poach the eggs until firm throughout, turning occasionally. It will take from six to ten, possibly fourteen, minutes to poach each egg. Remove with a skimmer and drain on a cloth, spread over a sieve. Snow eggs may be poached in milk, and the milk be used afterward in making a custard. EASTER PUDDING 475 COLD SPONGY MIXTURES WITH STARCH PRUNE BLANC MANGE (PHILADELPHIA) (rOR USE AT RESTAURANT, SCHOOL OR STORE) 3 pounds of prunes. i teaspoonf ul of salt. 6 ounces of comstatch The juice of two lemons. (J package). The whites of six eggs. 12 ounces of sugar (ij cups). Wash the prunes thoroughly and let soak over night in two or three quarts of water. Let simmer in the same water until soft. Mix together thoroughly the cornstarch, sugar, and salt; then add the hot prune juice, Of which there shoxild be three pints, and stir constancy until the mixture thickens and reaches the boiling point; then let cook over hot water one hour, stirring occasionally. Stone the prunes and pass them through a coarse sieve; add to the cornstarch mixture with the lemon juice, and, when thoroughly heated, fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten imtil foamy, but not dry. Mould in cups, and serve very cold with cream. REBECCA PUDDINQ I quart of milk. The whites of three eggs. J cup of cornstarch. i cup of cocoanut, or I cup of sugar. i cup of chopped almonds, or i teaspoonful of salt. x teaspoonful of vanilla extract Scald the milk; mix the cornstarch with rm\k to pour and stir into the hot milk; add the sugar and cook fifteen minutes then, before folding in the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, add the al- monds, cocoanut or vanilla. Turn into a motild, rinsed in cold water, and set aside to become chilled and firm. Serve with currant jelly, cream and sugar, or with a boiled custard. EASTER PUDDINQ Mould Rebecca pudding in a mould having a flat top. Mould blue violets in lemon or wine jelly, selecting a mould that will give a shape suitable to place upon the flat top of the form of Rebecca pudding. When cold and ready to serve unmould the pudding and place the jelly above it. Garnish the dish with violets, fresh or candied, and serve with cream and sugar, or boiled custard, 476 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING RICE PUDDING (GRECIAN STYLE) i cup of rice. 2 tablespoonfuls of cornstaich. I teaspoonful of salt. J cup of milk. Piece of cinnamon bark. The yolks of four eggs. 3 cups of milk. J cup of sugar. Blanch the rice and steam with the salt, cinnamon, and milk until tender; dilute the cornstarch with the milk and stir through the hot rice with a fork; let cook ten minutes and add the yolks, beaten with the sugar; let cook until the egg is set; remove the cinnamon and serve very cold. This pudding may be turned into buttered pudding dish and finished with a meringue, made of the whites of two or more eggs and twice as many tablespoonfuls of sugar as whites of egg. Beat the egg whites until very foamy, then beat in gradually half of the sugar; continue the beating until the mixture is very dry and glossy, then beat in the other half of the sugar. Bake from ten to fifteen minutes. GELATINE DISHES WITH WHIPPED CREAM BAVARIAN CREAMS Bavarian creams or Bavaroises are complex preparations con- sidered to be among the finest products of the culinary art. They are produced by combim'ng fruit juice, or some flavored liquid, as coffee or milk, with caramel or chocolate, gelatine and sugar with whipped cream in such a manner that the fluffy texture of the cream is retained. When the aeams are made of milk, flavored with nuts, coffee, chocolate, etc., yolks of eggs are usually employed to enrich and, in connection with the gelatine, to thicken the mix- ture. Yolks of eggs are not usually added to creams made of fruit juices. While this is the general rule, eggs may be introduced into a fruit Bavaroise and omitted from that prepared with milk. The combination of eggs with fruit, is a French custom which has not, as yet, obtained to any extent in this country. VANILLA BAVARIAN CREAM J a package of gelatine. 2 yolks of eggs. i cup of cold water. i cup of double cream. J a cup of hot milk } cup of cream from top of milk bot« J a cup of sugar. tie. i a teaspoonful of salt. i teaspoonful of vanilla extract. PINEAPPLE BAVARIAN CREAM 477 Soften the gelatine in the cold water; add half the sugar to the hot milk in the double-boiler; beat the yolks, add the other half of the sugar and the salt and beat again, then cook in the hot milk until the mixture coats the spoon; add the softened gelatine and strain. Set in a dish of ice and water and stir until beginning to thicken. Then fold in the cream, beaten together until firm, and the vanilla. Turn into a mould and set aside to become fixm. Two tablespoonfuls of rum or sherry wine may be used with or without the vanilla. COFFEE BAVARIAN CREAM Omit the vanilla and soften the gelatine in one fourth a cup of clear black coffee in place of the water. Or use the water to soak the gelatine and substitute three fourths cup of coffee for the milk used in the Vanilla Bavarian Cream, CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM Melt two ounces of chocolate over hot water; add one fourth cup each, of sugar and boiling water and stir and cook until smooth and boiling; add to the three fourths cup of milk and finish as Vanilla Bavarian Cream. QINQER BAVARIAN CREAM i package of gelatine. i cup of preserved ginger. i cup of cold water. 2 tablespoonfuls of sberty wine. i cup of hot milk. i cup of double cream. 2 yolks of eggs. i cup of cream from top of mUk I cup of sugar. bottle. GINGER BAVARIAN CREAM, NO. 2 Omit the milk and yolks, in above recipe. Use one cup of pre- served ginger — "stem" ginger, chopped exceedingly fine and mixed with syrup from the jar. Dissolve the softened gelatine by setting the dish in boiling water. PINEAPPLE BAVARIAN CREAM (POMPADOUR STYLE) I can of sliced pineapple. f cup of sugar. I package of gelatine. 2 cups of double cream. J cup of cold water. j dozen pistachio nuts. Juice of one half a lemon. i dozen maraschino cherries. 47S PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Cut slices of pineapple in halves, then split each half and use to line the bottom and sides of an oval charlotte mould holding five cups. Chop the rest of the pineapple and mix with the syrup from the can. Heat one cup of this pulp and juice. Soften the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve in the cup of hot pineapple; add the sugar, lemon juice and half of the cherries and nuts, chopped fine. Stir the mixture in ice and water until beginning to set, then fold in one cup and a half of the cream, beaten firm. Turn into the lined mould. When cold and set, unmould and decorate with the rest of the cream, beaten solid, and sprinkle with the rest of the chopped cherries and nuts. PINEAPPLE BAVARIAN CREAM I package of gelatine. The juice of one lemon. i cup of cold water. i cup of sugar. I pint of grated pineapple. The whip from three cups of cream. Soften the gelatine in cold water and scald the pineapple (juice and pulp) with the sugar. Less sugar will be required (one half a cup), if canned pineapple be used. Add the gelatine, dissolved by standing in hot water and strained through a cheesecloth, and the lemon juice. Set the mixtiure in ice water and stir until it begins to thicken, then add part of the whip from the cream and with a perforated spoon beat the cream evenly into the gelatine mixture; then add the rest of the whip, part at a time, and fold into the gelatine and first part of the cream. When the mixture is chilled enough to hold its shape, turn into a mould. If preferred the scalded pineapple may be pressed through a cheesecloth, to remove bits of pulp. This dish is especially pretty when moulded in a cylindrical mould. When unmoulded place a few blossoms of Narcissus in the centre and surround the base with grated pine- apple, cooked with sugar and lemon juice. APRICOT BAVARIAN CREAM WITH SNOW EQQS i package of gelatine. The whip from two cups of cream. } cup of cold water. Snow eggs. I cup of apricot purge. The whites of three eggs. The juice of one half a lemon. J cup of powdered sugar. } a cup of sugar. \ teaspoonful of vanilla. Soften the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve by setting the dish in hot water; strain into the apricot puree — cooked apricot RASPBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM 479 pressed through a sieve — and add the sugar and lemon juice; stir until the sugar is dissolved, then set into ice water, and stir until the mixture begins to thicken; then add the whip from the cream as above. Prepare the snow eggs as in the recipe (page 474), moulding them in after-dinner coffee spoons. Dispose the "eggs " and the slices, or quarters, of cooked apricots, alternately, on the outside of the mould, holding them in place with the Bavarian mixture. Also make alternate layers of this mixture. Serve turned from the mould on to a plate covered with a lace paper. Whipped cream flavored to taste, or a compote of apricots, may be served apart, if desired. PISTACHIO AND STRAWBERRY BAVAROISE Stiawberry Bavaroise. Pistachio Bavaroise. } package of gelatine. i package of gelatine, i cup of cold water. i cup of cold water. I cup of strawberry pulp and i cup of milk. juice. 2 ounces of crushed pistachio nuts The juice of one half a lemon. i cup of sugar, i cup of sugar. Green color paste. Rose color paste, if needed. The whip from three and one half cups of cream. Prepare the two creams as in the preceding recipes, dividing the whip from the cream equally, then put by spoonfuls, to produce a Variegated appearance, into a mould decorated with strawberries, cut in halves, and blanched and crushed pistachio nuts. If the pistachio nuts be finely crushed in the mortar, the decoration will resemble green moss. In making the pistachio cream, scald the crushed nuts in the cream, then remove or not by straining, as desired. RASPBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM I package of gelatine. Garnish- i cup of raspberry juice. The froth from i cup of double The juice of one half a lemon. cream and one cup of milk. I cup of raspberry juice. Sauteme to flavor. \ cup of sugar. Green color paste, li cups of double cream. Soften the gelatine in the fourth cup of raspberry juice and dissolve bv setting in hot water, then proceed as usual, beating the 48o PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING cream until solid to the bottom of the bowl. This gives a very rich dessert. In the garnish use only enough color paste to tint the cream a very delicate shade of green. RICE BAVARIAN CREAM WITH PRUNES i cup of rice. i cup of cold water. ij cups of milk. i pint of cream. i cup of milk. i8 cooked prunes. The yolks of three eggs. The juice of one half a lemon. J cup of sugar. 3 tablespoonfuls of sherry wine. J ounce of gelatine. Garnish of cooked prunes. Blanch the rice, then cook in the cup and a half of milk until tender. Make a boiled custard with the half cup of milk, the yolks and the sugar; add the gelatine, softened in the cold water, and strain over the rice. Stir over ice water until the mixture begins to thicken, then fold in the prunes, sifted or stoned and cut in pieces, as pleases; the cream, beaten soUd, and the lemon juice, also wine, if used. Serve surrounded with cooked prunes. This is par- ticularly good when preserved pineapple, cut in small pieces, is used in place of the prunes. If a white dessert be preferred, omit the custard, making ihe rice moist with an equivalent of milk or cream. Omit the prunes and serve the dish with sliced oranges, or orange jelly, cut in cubes. GATEAU ST. EM I LION Bake a loaf of sponge cake in a round pan without a tube. When cold, score the top, all around, three fourths an inch from the centre, and carefully remove a thin round of cake that may be returned to place later on. Remove more of the cake to leave a case with walls nearly an inch thick; fill the case with caramel, vanilla or coffee Bavarian cream, and set the round of cake back in place to give the original shape of the loaf. Spread the whole outside of the cake with a thin layer of Mocha frosting and orna- ment with more of the same frosting, put on with bag and star tube. COLD CHARLOTTES Cold charlottes differ from hot charlottes in that whipped cream enters into their composition. There is usually an outer case or covering and a centre of Bavarian cream, ivory jellv, or simply BURNT-ALMOND BAVARIAN CREAM 481 whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, or whipped cream with whipped whites of eggs. When the case is made of lady-fingers, narrow slices of cake, iced alternately in different colors, maca- roons, gauffres, wafers, etc., the name Charlotte Russe is applied to the dessert. When the case is made of fruits, or wine jelly, holding strawberries, sections of orange, or other fruit, a macedoineor Celestine charlotte results. When the charlottes have an outer case (a compound cream lining), with a different colored cream or fruit centre, a Charlotte a Surprise is produced. CHARLOTTE RUSSE INDIVIDUAL STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE Dip the edge of macaroon drops into sugar cooked to the caramel stage and kept liquid over hot water. Press the macaroons to- gether to form a ring about a cup. Remove the ring from the cup to a plate, and in the same manner add other rings to form a basket, holding each macaroon in place an instant while the caramel is hardening. Put macaroons together with caramel over an oiled cup or mould to form a handle and fasten this in place with caramel. FiU the basket with double cream, sweetened and beaten until solid, and fresh strawberries. These should not stand very long after being filled; tiliey should be set in place upon individual plates before being filled with the cream. If a macaroon base be desired for the baskets, fashion that first, then add macaroons dipped in caramel, one after another, as in making a burr basket. BURNT-ALMOND CHARLOTTE RUSSE Dip the ends of ahnond wafers (see page 415) in caramel and then in chopped and browned ahnonds; dry and dip the side of one wafer after another into the caramel and fasten one to another around an oiled mould. Mould a bumt-almond Bavarian cream in a inouM a little smaller than the wafer case. When ready to serve remove the cream from the mould and place the wafer case over it. Dec- orate with whipped cream, piling it high above the Bavarian cream. BURNT-ALMOND BAVARIAN CREAM Soften one fourth box of gelatine in one fourth cup of cold water. Cook two thirds cup of sugar to caramel — add half a 482 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING cup of blanched almonds, chopped fine, and stir while browning slightiy, add half a cup of water; stir while the caramel dissolves, then let boil two or three minutes; add the softened gelatine, and set into ice water; when the mixture begins to thicken, fold in one cup and a half of cream, beaten firm. Sponge or meringue lady- fingers may be used to line the mould for this charlotte russe. Or these may be made into a case similar to the one made with the wafers. CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH SALPICON OF FRUIT (iNDIVrDUAL recipe) J cup of double cream. i tablespoonful of wine, or i cup of milk. i teaspoonful of vanilla extract. I teaspoonful of granulated Lady-fingers. gelatine. Whipped cream. 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water. i cup of sugar (scant). Garnish: stoned and skiimed white grapes, maraschino cherries, syrup. Stir the cream and milk together, whip and drain; soften the gelatine in the cold water and (fissolve over hot water; add the wine or vanilla and pour over the cream; add the sugar (sugar syrup is better) and set the pan into ice water; turn the pan in one direc- tion and stir in the opposite direction imtil the mixture thickens then turn into a moTJd lined with lady-fingers. When ready to serve, turn the charlotte from the moxild, first dipping it into warm water and making sure that the mixtmre does not adhere to the edge of the mould at any point. Garnish with a little whipped cream, using the pastry bag and tube, and stirround with the grapes and cherries, mixed with the sugar syrup and a little of the sjrrup from the cherries. CHOCOLATE CHARLOTTE RUSSE Fill a mould lined with lady-fingers with chocolate Bavarian cream, made either with or without eggs. Garnish with sweetened and flavored whipped cream — u^ng a pastry bag and tube — and candied cherries. BANANA CANTALOUPE (CHARLOTTE RUSSE) i package of gelatine. The juice of one lemon. i cup of cold water. x cup of banana pulp. I cup of cold milk. 3 cups of double cream The yolks of four eggs. Lady-fingers, I cup of sugar. Hstachio nuts or candied plums. CHARLOTTE HUSSE FILLING 483 Scald the milk with part of the sugar; beat the egg yolks, add the rest of the sugar and a few grains of salt; pour the hot milk upon the eggs and sugar, mix thoroughly, return to the boiler, and cook until tixe mixture thickens slightly; add the softened gelatine and strain over the banana puree (bananas, with skin and coarse threads removed and pressed through a sieve or vegetable ricer), and return the saucepan to the hot water to scald the banana; then remove from the fire, add the lemon juice and stir over ice water; when cool and beginning to thicken fold in the whipped cream. When stiff enough to hold its shape turn into a melon mould lined throughout with lady-fingers. These may be trimmed to fit into the spaces of the mould. When ready to serve, turn from the mould, brush the outside with white of egg, slightly beaten, and sprinkle thickly with blanched pistachio nuts, or candied green grapes or plums, chopped fine. INDIVIDUAL MAPLE CHARLOTTE RUSSE Paper cases, or souffle dishes, lined with angel lady-fingers (cut in suitable pieces)^ filled with maple Bavarian cream and orna- mented with whipped cream, make a pleasing change from the ordinary charlotte russe. CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING (NO GELATINE) I pint of cream. J cup of sugar. The whites of two eggs. 2 tablespoonfuls of wine, or I teaspoonful of vanilla extract, or both. Beat the cream until stiff to the bottom of the bowl, or use the drained froth from thin cream beaten with a whip chum. Beat the whites of the eggs until dry, then gradually beat in half the sugar and fold in the other half; add the extract, or wine, and combine with the cream, cutting and folding the two mixtures together. Use for filling cases that are not to be unmoulded. This is one of the best of fillings for a bombe glace or other frozen mixture. CHARLOTTE RUSSE FILLING (NO GELATINE OR EQQS) I cup of double cream. } teaspoonful of vanilla, or i cup of powdered sugar i tables[Kx>nful of wine, or both, (scant). 484 PRACTICAL COOKUvG AND SERVING Mix all the ingredients and beat until thick to the bottom of tJhc bowl. This filling may be used in cases that are to be unmoulded, but it is generally preferred when the charlotte is to be served in a paper or other case, or in a cup. CHARTREUSE OF CHESTNUTS (CHARLOTTE RUS8E) I cup of chestnut pulp. i cup of French candied fruit 1 cup of sugar. cut in bits. i cup of water. Vanilla or wine, i box of gelatine. Chocolate Bavarian cream, i cup of cold water. Whipped cream. I cup of cream. Candied chestnuts. Lady fingers. Shell, blanch, and cook in milk large chestnuts enough to yield a cup of pur6e. They will pass through the sieve more easily when hot. Cook the sugar and water until a thread is formed. Soften the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve in the hot syrup, then strain into the chestnut pulp; beat together thoroughly, add the fruit and flavoring, and stir over ice water until it begins to set, then fold in the cup of cream, beaten stiff. Line a melon or other fanciful shaped mould, set in ice water, with lady-fingers, then with chocolate Bavarian cream; fill the centre with the chestnut cream, cover with chocolate cream, and let stand imtil the mixture is well set. Serve tm-ned on to a lace paper, or surrounded with whipped cream and candied chestnuts. CHESTNUT CHARLOTTE RUSSE I cup of chestnut pur6e. The yolks of four eggs. I cup of sugar. J cup of sugar. i cup of water. J teaspoonful of salt. I ounce of gelatine. J cup of candied fruit. 1 cup of cold water. J cup of wine. The whip from three cups of Lady-finger meringues. single cream. i cup of milk. Make a boiled custard of the milk, yolks of eggs, half cup of sugar, and salt; add the gelatine softened in the cold water and gradually mix into the chestnut pur6e, diluted with the sugar and water cooked to a syrup; add the wine and fruit and stir over ice water until the mixture begins to set, then fold in the whip from the DEVIL'S FOOD CAKE ■ YEAST DOUGHNUTS HOLLY LEAVES CUT FROM CITKON AND RED CANDIES. ROYAL CREAM WHIP 485 cream and turn into mould lined with meringues shaped like lady- fingers. Cut the meringues into triangular shape and fit into the bottom of the mould, first lining it with paper. Leave a narrow, but uniform, space between the meringues. SYLLABUBS, WHIPS, JUNKETS, DEVONSHIRE CREAMS, ETC. If you will but speak the word, I will make you a good Syllabub, and then you may sit down in a Hay-cock and eat it. — Izaak Walton. The foundation of these idyllic dishes, the names of which head this division of the dessert service, is cream or rich milk, preferably milk fresh drawn. The cream or milk is variously modified with spice and wine, brandy or cider. Lemon juice is usually added to accentuate the flavor of the whole. WINE SYLLABUB I pint of cream. i cup of sherry, Madeira or port. The juice of one lemon. A grating of nutmeg or a sprinkling J cup of sugar (scant). of ground cinnamon. Mix the sugar with the lemon juice and wine and when dissolved add the cream and whip to a froth. If a whip churn be used drain the froth. Serve very cold in glasses. Some authorities dispose a ■wine-soaked bit of cake in the bottom of the glass before the cream is put in. LEMON SYLLABUB I pint of double cream. i cup of sugar. The juice of five lemons. i cup of sweet wine. The grated rind of one lemon. Mix the sugar and lemon juice and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the wine and cream and whip the whole to a froth. Drain if needed. Let stand some hours. Serve very cold. ROYAL CREAM WHIP I pint of double cream. J cup of sugar (scant), ij cups of grape juice. The whites of two eggs. Beat the whites of the eggs until foamy, add the fruit jtiice mixed with the sugar, and lastly the cream, then beat with a whip chum. 486 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Take off the froth as it rises and drain on a sieve. Pour the un- whipped mixture into handsome glasses, pile the whip on top and serve ice cold. Strawberry or red raspberry juice may take the place of the grape juice. PUREE OF CHESTNUTS WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND FRUITS I pint of double cream. i pint of chestnut pvi6e. i cup of sugar. J cup of syrup at 35°. I cup of candied fruit soaked in A few grains of salt. wine and drained. Flavoring (wine or vanilla). Use the wine, in which the fruit has steeped, to flavor the cream;, add this with the sugar to the cream and whip the whole very light. Blanch and cook chestnuts to yield a pint of pulp when passed through a sieve or ricer; beat with the syrup imtil light and fluffy; if not moist enough add a little cream or milk. Dispose the cream in a mound in the centre of the dish after first beating in the fruit, then press the puree aroimd it, using a sieve or vegetable ricer — the ricer will give the prettiest effect. If preferred, the fruit may be stirred into the chestnut puree, and disposed in a mound on the serving-dish; then cover with whipped cream, and pipe cream upon the mound to form some pattern. Garnish with candied chestnuts or fruit. JUNKET Junket is another old-fashioned dish, which has lately had a re- naissance. The characteristic texture of the dish is occasioned by the action of rennet upon milk. Formerly a piece of the inner lin- ing of a calf's stomach, prepared by cleaning and salting, was laid in the "blood-warm" milk (about 98°Fahr.) to produce a jellied state. If too much or too little rennet were used, the result was unsatisfactory, and the exact quantity required was a rather nice matter to determine. The renaissance of this simple dainty is largely due to the fact that the rennet principle can now be pur- chased in the form of tablets (junket), one of which is the exact quantity required for one quart of milk. Thus the success of the dish is assured, provided always that the milk be at the proper tem- perature when the tablet is incorporated. VARIATIONS OF PLAIN JUNKET 487 (PLAIN JUNKET (CURDS AND WHEY) a to 4 teaspoonfuls of rum, brandy i quart of rich milk. or wine, or i junket tablet. I teaspoonful of vanilla. Powdered sugar and cinnamon. Crush the junket tablet and dissolve in one tablespoonful of cold water. Heat the milk and sugar, stirring constantly, until it reaches 100° Fahr. ; add the flavoring and the dissolved tablet and stir until evenly mixed, then turn into a serving dish, or preferably into sherbet cups. Let the preparation stand in a warm room until it becomes jelly-like, then without jarring set aside in a cool place. Just before serving sprinkle the top with powdered sugar and cinna- mon mixed. When the dish is leveled with a spoon, as in eating, or if it be broken in moving, the curd and whey separate somewhat. DEVONSHIRE JUNKET Prepare as plain junket, and just before serving cover the top with Devonshire cream, then sprinkle with the sugar and cinnamon as before. Whipped cream is sometimes substituted for Devon- shire cream. DEVONSHIRE CREAM Let a pan of milk, fresh drawn from the cow, stand in a cool place from twelve to twenty-four hours, then set over the fire and let come very slowly to the scalding point without boiling. Remove to a cool place from six to twelve hours; then skim off the cream, which will be quite firm and of a peculiarly sweet flavor. VARIATIONS OF PLAIN JUNKET One ounce of chocolate, melted and cooked until smooth and glossy with two or three tablespoonfuls of boiling water, added to the milk for a plain junket, gives a chocolate junket. Cook the sugar to caramel, dissolve in hot water, and add to the milk, for caramel junket. When richness is required, as for convalescents and sometimes for children, add the beaten yolks of two or three eggs, mixed with sugar, to the milk and make "snow eggs" of the whites. Serve a snow egg on the top of each glass. If plain junket be prepared in a large dish, on serving pour around each service a pur6e of fruit (orange, banana, pineapple, etc.) chocolate sauce or syrup, coffee sauce, etc. CHAPTER XXI Hot Puddings, Etc, SYNOPSIS OF CHAPTER a Hot puddings thickened with previously cooked /Baked. ingredients. 1 Steamed. 6. Hot puddings thickened with uncooked ingredients: I. Grains. {/ Steamed. Uncooked flour. 1 Baked. ( Fried. ]Souffl&. Cooked flour, c. Omelets. A. HOT PUDDINGS THICKENED WITH COOKED INGREDIENTS As a rule, puddings in which previously cooked ingredients are used require but little cooking, and that at a low temperature; especially is this true when eggs are employed. The cooking of steamed puddings needs be continuous, and boiling water must be used to replenish the supply as needed. If a steam Icettle be not available, a saucepan tightly covered will answer the purpose, if the mould containing the pudding be set on a trivet (a dozen nails will do), to allow the passage of water between it and the bottom of the saucepan. When grains are used for thickening, the pudding should be stirred several times during the first part of the cooking, lest the grains settle and form a heavy pasty mass in the bottom of the vessel. Often the grains may be cooked to advantage in a double- boiler, then, after the other ingredients have been added, the cook- ing may be finished in the oven. 488 CRACKER RAISIN PUDDING 489 BROWN BETTY i cup of melted butter. The juice of one lemon or orange. I quart of bread crumbs (centre Enough water to make half a cup of loaf). with the fruit juice. Nearly one quart of sHced apples Sugar. (pared and cored). Grating of lemon or orange rind. Put the crumbs moistened with butter into a baking dish in layers alternately with the apple, making the last layer of crumbs, and sprinkle each layer of apple with the fruit juice, water, and sugar. Bake about an hour. Let the dish be covered during the first part of the baking. Occasionally substitute sliced rhubarb for the apple. A few stoned raisins will improve the latter dish. MOCK INDIAN PUDDING. (MRS. MILLER) Cut stale bread in half inch slices and remove the crusts. Butter the bread on both sides, pile the slices together, and cut in cubes. To ftach cup of cubes — well pressed down — use one pint of milk, a scant half a cup of molasses, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Bake in a buttered pudding dish, in a very moderate oven, from two to three hours. Serve hot with or without cream. THANKSQIVINQ PUDDING i\ cups of cracker crumbs. | teaspoonful of dnnamoa. I cup of sugar. i pound of raisins. \ cup of molasses. 6 eggs. J teaspoonful of salt. S cups of milk. J teaspoonful of mace. i cup of butter. Scald the milk and pour over the cracker crumbs and butter; let stand a few moments, then add the molasses and spices, the eggs beaten with the sugar, and the raisins stoned. Bake in a moderate oven about four hours. Stir several times during the first hour to keep the raisins from settling to the bottom of the dish. CRACKER RAISIN PUDDING (NEW HAMPSHIRE) 6 Boston crackers. I cup of sugar. Butter. 4 teaspoonful of jsalt. I cup of seeded raisins A grating of nutmeg. 3 eggs. 5 cups of milk. 490 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Split the crackers, spread with butter, and dispose in a buttered baking dish with the raisins; beat the eggs, add the sugar, salt, nutmeg, and milk, and pour over the crackers; let stand half an hour, then bake slowly imtil the centre is firm. Serve hot with hard sauce. ST. DAVID'S PUDDDINQ. (MARIETTA McPHERSON) 6 apples. i pound of almonds. I cup of water. J cup of butter. J cup of sugar. i cup of sherry, i} cups of macaroon crumbs. Salt to taste. Pare and core the apples, then cut them into eighths. Cook the apples until tender, but not broken, in the sugar and water, heated to the boiling point. Shell, blanch, and shred the almonds. Melt the butter and stir into it the macaroon cnmibs. Butter a baking dish and in it dispose the crumbs, apples, and almonds, in alternate layers. Pour over the remaining syrup and the sherry, and bake in a slow oven three hours. Peaches may be substituted for the apples. The pudding when baked shbuld be of a rich, dark-red color. QUEEN OF PUDDINGS I quart of milk. The yolks of four eggs. I pint of grated breed crumbs. Currant or other jelly, li cups of sugar. } cup of sugar. Grated rind and juice of one lemon. The whites of four eggs. For a change add two ounces of melted chocolate, one fourth (easpoonful of cinnamon, and one and one half teaspoonfuls of vanUla extract, in place of the grated rind and lemon juice. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add the sugar, grated rind, aad juice, then the mfik, and pour over the bread crumbs; let stand about half an hour, then bake untU finn in the centre; spread with jelly or strawberry preserves, and cover with a meringue made of the half cujj of sugar and the whites of the eggs. Return to the oven «bout eight minutes, to brown the meringue. Serve hot or cold. CUBAN PUDDING i pound of dry sponge cake. 4 eggs. i pound of grated oocoanut. i cup of sugar. I pint of mjJk. Preeerv«d gina rf VITOS PUDDING a9t Press the cake through a sieve and add the cocoanut; beat the eggs slightly; add the sugar, and then, gradually, the hot milk and pour the whole over the cake and cocoanut. Decorate the bottom and sides of a well-buttered mould with about two ounces of preserved ginger. Put the cake mixture into the mould, cover and steam about an hour and a half. Serve the pudding with the syrup from the ginger jar, heated and poured over it. CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING (A LA DAVID HARUM) I cup of scalded milk. J teaspoonful, each, of cloves and I pint of bread crumbs. mace. I cup of sugar. J pound of raisins. I teaspoonful of salt. i pound of currants. The yolks of four eggs. 3 cup of almonds. I teaspoonful of cinnamon and | pound of suet. nutmeg. The whites of four eggs. Pour the scalded milk over the crumbs taken from the centre of a stale loaf of bread; when cool, add the sugar, salt, and yolks of eggs, beaten together, then the chopped suet, mixed with the blanched and chopped almonds, the seeded raisins, and the cleaned ciurants; lastly add the spices and the whites of eggs, beaten stiff. Serve with hard sauce, or with any liquid wine or fruit pudding sauce. In the illustration the pudding is served with whipped cream, sprinkled with grated maple sugar. Steam four hours. For a change chopped dates or figs are particularly g«od in place of the currants or raisins. VITOS PUDDING 1 cup of vitos. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. 2 cups of milk (scalded). i teaspoonful of soda. i cup of molasses. i teaspoonful of salt. 2 eggs. I cup of dates. Stir the \'itos (any other wheat breakfast food may be sul> stituted) into the scalded milk and let cook until the mixture thickens, then remove from the fire, add the molasses, butter, soda, salt, and dates, stoned and cut in pieces, and, lastly, when cooled somewhat, the eggs, beaten light without separatmg. Turn into a buttered mould and steam three hours. Serve with hard or liquid pudding sauce. 492 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING SWEET POTATO PUDDING J pound (i cup) of sugar. § cup of cream. i pound (i cup) of butter. ^ cup of brandy. I pound of sifted potato (sweet). ^ cup of rose-water. 4 eggs beaten without separating. Cinnamon and nutmeg. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; add the cooked potatoes, sifted, the eggs, beaten to a froth, and the other ingredients with spices to taste. Bake in a pudding dish, lined with puff-paste. Serve hot with a pudding sauce. CABINET PUDDING I cup of fruit, currants, chopped 3 cups of milk. citron and raisins. 4 eggs. Ciimamon and cloves (ground) Salt. at discretion. 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Slices of sponge cake. Butter a three-pint brick mould, sprinkle the bottom of the mould with fruit, and then add slices of stale sponge cake, and spices if desired. Alternate these layers until the mould is filled. Beat the eggs, add the salt, the milk, and the melted butter, and pour over the ingredients into the mould. Let stand one hour. Steam one hour and a half. Serve hot with wine or custard sauce, or with currant jelly. STEAMED BERRY PUDDING 1 cup of milk I cup of huckleberries or cran- 2 eggs. berries. Rolled crackers or sifted graham i teaspoonful of salt. bread. | cup of sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Beat the eggs and add the milk with the salt and sugar. Stir in the berries and enough crumbs to make a drop batter. Steam one hour. Serve with pudding sauce. About one pound of breid crumbs will be needed. CHESTNUT CROQUETTES Remove the shells and blanch the chestnuts, then cook until tender in plenty of water; drain and pass through a sieve; sweeten ^■^m^^ 4 MATERIALS FOR DESSERTS LACE PAPERS FOR SWEET DISHES. (See page 467.) WARLOTTE MOULDS IN PAN OF ICE AND WATER. DOUBLE MOULDING LEMON FANCHONETTES. (See page 441O STRAWBERRY VOL-AU-VENT. MERINGUE DECORATION. (See page 4S2J :^3^:^rr^sz:ji!r^ :^!r.5^^^'-~5Sa^8®^ ^^^* - -^fejclfi; " PUMPKIN PIE. (See pases 438 and 442.) APPLE AND BROWN-BREAD PUDDING 493 to taste with sugar and water, boiled to a thick syrup (a cup of sugar boiled with half a cup of water will be a generous quantity for a quart of the sifted chestnuts), flavor with vanilla, and add the beaten yolks of three eggs to a quart of pulp, and also a little salt. When cold enough to handle shape into croquettes (a pear shape is appropriate), egg-and-bread-crumb, finish with a stem of angelica root, and fry in deep fat. Serve on a folded napkin with Sabayon sauce in a dish apart. To shell and blanch, see page 31. CUMBERLAND PUDDING 6 ounces of stale bread crumbs. 6 ounces of sugar. 6 ounces of currants. 4 ounces of citron. 6 ounces of suet. 6 eggs. 6 ounces of apples. The grated rind and juice of one 1 teaspoonful of salt. orange. Pass the suet, apples, pared and cored, and the citron through the food chopper together; add the currants, salt, sugar, and bread crumbs (centre of loaf passed through a colander), also when thoroughly mixed the beaten yolks of the eggs, diluted with the grated rind and juice of the orange; lastly, add the stiff -beaten whites of the eggs. Steam four to six hours in a two-quart mould; two brick ice cream moulds, each holding a quart, give puddings good shape for serving. Serve with lemon, wine, or hard sauce. APPLE AND BROWN-BREAD PUDDFNQ I pint of brown-bread crumbs. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. I cup of suet (fine chopped). i egg. I pint of apple, chopped fine. i cup of milk. i teaspoonful of salt. i teaspoonful of ginger or other I cup of raisins. spice. Mix the crumbs and suet and add the apple, salt, and raisins, dredged with the flour and the spice. Beat the egg, add the milk, and stir into the dry ingredients. Steam two hours in a buttered mould. Serve with hard, lemon, or other liquid pudding sauce. 494 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING B. HOT PUDDINGS THICKENED WITH UNCOOKED INGREDIENTS ENGLISH PUDDING J cup of butter. i teaspoonful of soda. I cup of stoned and cut raisins. i teaspoonful of cloves. I cup of molasses. i teaspoonful of cinnamon. I cup of milk. i teaspoonful of mace. $i cups of flour. Cream the butter and add the fruit, the molasses, milk, and flour sifted with soda, spices, and a few grains of salt; mix thor- oughly and steam in a buttered mould about three hours. Serve with hard sauce. CHERRY PUDDING J cup of butter. J teaspoonful of salt. J cup of sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 1 cup of milk. The whites of three eggs. 2 cups of flour. I cup of stoned cherries. Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar, and alternately the milk and flour sifted with the salt and baking-powder, and lastly the cherries and whites of eggs, beaten stiff. Steam in a buttered pudding dish about an homr and a half. Serve with a sauce, made of the cherry juice and sugar thickened with arrowroot. FRUIT PUDDING 1 cup of entire wheat flour. i teaspoonful of mixed spices (mace, i teaspoonful of salt. cinnamon, etc.). I teaspoonful of baking-powder. 2 teaspoonfuls of melted butter. i cup of molasses. i cup of fruit (currants, sultanas, I egg- dtron, chopped figs, dates or } cup of milk (sweet). prunes). Sift together the first four ingredients. Beat the egg, add the milk and molasses, and stir into the dry ingredients; then add the melted butter and the fniit, either one variety or a combination. Steam two and one half hoiurs. Serve vnth hard sauce. TAPIOCA CREAM 495 CARROT PUDDINQ. (ELLEN M. CHANDLER) I pound of carrots. J pound of currants. I pound of suet. i teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. I cup of sugar. i teaspoonful of nutmeg, ij cups of flour. J teaspoonful of ground cloves. T teaspoonful of salt. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, I pound of raisins. Weigh the carrots, after peeling and grating. Mix the suet, chopped fine, with the fruit, and then with carrots; then add the baking-powder, spices, and flour, sifted together. Steam in a mould three hours and a half. Serve with a wine sauce. APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDINQ 6 tart apples. J cup of sugar. I cup of tapioca. i teaspoonful of drmamon, or the I quart of boiling water. juice and grated rind of one i teaspoonful of salt. lemon. Sprinkle the tapioca and salt into the boiling water, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tapioca becomes transparent. Core and pare the apples and dispose in a buttered baking dish; fill the cavities with the sugar and spice, mixed together, and pour the tapioca over the whole. Let bake slowly until the apples are tender. Stewed prunes, peeled bananas, cooked bag figs and peaches, fresh or canned, may be prepared in a similar manner. A layer of fruit, then a layer of tapioca, furnishes a satisfactory way of disposing the ingredients. Serve hot with cream and sugar. TAPIOCA CREAM I pint of hot milk. i teaspoonful of salt J cup of tapioca. i teaspoonful of vaniUa. The yolks of two eggs. The whites of two eggs. J cup of sugar. Stir the tapioca into the milk and let cook imtil transparent; beat the yoUiK, add the sugar and salt and beat again, then stir into the tapioca; add the extract and fold into the whites of the eggs, beaten until dry. Serve hot or cold, 496 PRACTICAL COOmNG AND SERVING TAPIOCA CUSTARD PUDDING 4 cups of hot milk. i teaspoonful of salt. I cup of tapioca. i tablespoonful of butter. 3 eggs. 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract. 1 cup of sugar. Cook the tapioca, until transparent, in the hot milk. Beat the eggs slightly; add the sugar and salt and stir into the tapioca; stir in also the butter and vanilla; turn into a buttered baking dish and bake about thirty minutes in a slow oven. Serve hot or cold. BAKED TAPIOCA PUDDING WITH FRUIT I quart of milk. 2 eggs. I cup of currants, sultanas, sliced i teaspoonful of salt, mace and citron and cherries. cinnamon. } cup of tapioca. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. I cup of sugar. Scald the milk with the fruit and stir into it the tapioca and sugar, mixed with the salt and spices; let cook until the tapioca is transparent, about ten minutes, then add the beaten yolks of the eggs and the butter. Turn into a buttered baking dish and let bake about fifteen minutes. Cover with a meringue, made of the whites of the eggs, one fourth a cup of sugar and half a teaspoonful of sugar. Retura to the oven to brown the meringue. Serve hot or cold. The whites of the eggs may be added with the yolks, and the pudding served hot with hard sauce or a liquid wine sauce. BAKED RICE AND MILK PUDDING I cup of rice. Cinnamon or nutmeg. I cup of sugar. 6 cups of milk. I teaspoonful of salt. i to one cup of stoned raisins. Blanch the rice and turn into a baking dish; add the othet in- gredients and bake in a very slow oven Ulree or four hours. Stir two or three times, during tiie first hour, to keep the raisins from settling to the bottom. Cover with a buttered paper, to keep the top from becoming too brown. If the pudding looks at all dry, add another cup of rich milk fifteen or twenty minutes before talking from the oven. The grains of rice should be whole, each sur- rounded by a creamy liquid. AUNT SALLIE'S FLIRTS 497 INDIAN TAPIOCA 5 cup of tapioca. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. J cup of Indian meal. I teaspoonful of salt. I quart of scalded milk. ij cups of cold milk. I cup of molasses. Mix together the tapioca and meal and stir while sprinkling into the scalded milk. Stir and cook until the tapioca becomes trans- parent, then stir into the molasses, salt, and butter, and turn into a buttered baking dish. Pour over the top a cup and a half of cold milk, and set in the oven without stirring. Bake about an hour. Serve with or without cream. INDIAN SUET PUDDING (COLONIAL) I quart of hot milk. i teaspoonful of salt. I cup of Indian meal. j teaspoonful of ginger. 1 cup of suet,. chopped fine. § teaspoonful of cinnamon. I cup of molasses. i pint of cold milk. 1 egg. I cup of cold water. Stir the meal into the hot milk and add the other ingredients except the cold milk and water; add the egg, well beaten, last. Turn into a buttered baking dish and pour the cold milk and water over the top, and, without stirring these in, bake very slowly three hours. Serve plain, or with cream and sugar. BAKED INDIAN PUDDING I pint of milk, scalded. 5 cup of molasses. 4 tablespoonfuls of Indian meal. 5 teaspoonful of salt. I cup of cold water. i teaspoonful of cinnamon. 1 cup of sugar. § teaspoonful of ginger. 2 eggs. -J cup of milk. Mix the meal with the cup of cold water and stir into the hot milk; add the other ingredients, except the half cup of milk. Bake in a buttered pudding dish half an hour, then pour on the half cup of milk and bake without stirring two hours. AUNT SALLIE'S FLIRTS (NOODLES) J egg. Flour. a teaspoonful of salt. Break an egg into a cup, add the salt and quickly stir in flour with a spoon until no more can be easily added. Turn on to a 498 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING floured board and add flour until the mixture is of a consistency to roll out. Divide the dough into three pieces and roll each thinner, if possible, than paper; cut into squares or strips and fry an instant in hot fat. They should be a very delicate brown. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve at once. Two people, one to fry and one to sprinkle with sugar, are needed to prepare this dish, as every- thing depends upon quick work. If a larger number of "flirts" be required than is provided in the recipe, do not double the recipe, mix again. Use but one egg at a time. This in reality is noodle paste. STRAWBERRY, BLACKBERRY, PEACH OR ORANQE SHORTCAKES i\ cups of flour. I cup of butter. ^ cup of cornstarch. \ teaspoonful of salt. 4 level teaspoonfuls of baking- Milk as needed, powder. Sift together the flour, cornstarch, baking-powder, and salt, and work in the butter with a knife, pastry fork or fingers; add milk, a little in a place, to mix a rather soft dough. Divide the dough in halves, and pat out to fit two tins; or bake in one tin, one round above the other, first spreading the lower round generously with butter. Bake separately, if needed, and butter the cakes. Put together with fruit mixed with sugar. Garnish with cream and fruit. Two baskets of strawberries or raspberries, or other fruit in the same proportion, are required. BANANA SHORTCAKE 5- cup of butter. 2^ teaspoonfuls (level) of baking- 1 cup of sugar. powder. 2 eggs. 4 bananas . \ cup of milk. Cream filling, ij cups of flour. Meringue. Mix in the same manner as a cake. Bake in a square layer-cake pan. When baked dispose on the top peeled bananas, cut in halves lengthwise; cover with thick custard filling (EngUsh cream) and meringue. Brown delicately in the oven (it should take about six minutes) and serve with hot jelly sauce. The whites of three eggs and one third a cup of sugar will make the meringue. Put in place, with a pastry bag and tube, directly over the halves of banana, thus marking the cake into divisions for cutting. FRITTERS 499 GERMAN PUFFS J cup of butter. 2 cups of flour. I cup of sugar. J teaspoonfuls of soda. The yolks of three eggs. 2 level teaspoonfuls of cream-of- I cup of mUk. tartar. Mix in the same manner as a cake. Bake in a well-buttered and heated mufiSn pan about twenty minutes. Serve with Sabayon sauce. COTTAQE PUDDING \ cup of butter. | cup of milk. J cup of sugar. i| cups of flour. I egg, well beaten. 2J teaspoonful of baking-powder. Mix as a cake and bake in an agate muffin pan. Serve with lemon, wine or strawberry sauce. FRITTERS Fritters are used as an entree and also as a part of the sweet coui-se. The fruit or other article which gives the specific name to the fritter is usually cut in slices, dipped into batter, and, when well coated, fried in deep fat. Fritters are served sprinkled with powdered sugar or with a sauce. To mix fritter batter, sift the flour and salt together; make a hollow in the centre and break in the eggs un- beaten; pour in a little milk and stir, adding milk gradually as the flour is taken up and liquid is needed; when about half of the quantity of milk has been added, beat the mixture until it is full of air bubbles, then beat in the rest of the milk and let stand an hour before using. Another method of preparing fritter batter is as follows: beat the eggs until whites and yolks are well mixed, then add the milk and stir together into the flour and salt sifted together. A third method is to add the yolks with the milk, and the stiff beaten whites just before using. There are several points which it were well to keep in mind when mixing batters: 1. Beat thoroughly before adding all the liquid, as it is difficult to beat a thin batter smooth. 2. A batter containing few eggs needs to be made thicker with flour than one containing more eggs. Soo PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING 3. If possible a batter should stand at least an hour before using; several hours in cold weather, or over night, is preferable. 4. When the egg is separated and the white is beaten stiff be- fore adding, do not mk with the other ingredients until ready to use. APPLE FRITTERS li cups of flour. I egg. 2 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. -| cup of milk. i teaspoonful of salt. 2 sour apples. Sift together the flour, baking-powder and salt; beat the eggs, add the milk and stir into the dry ingredients. Pare, core and cut the apples in small pieces and stir into the batter after it has stood an horn" or more. Drop by spoonfuls into deep fat and fry to a delicate brown. Serve as a dessert with maraschino or currant jelly sauce. SCANDINAVIAN ROSETTES Beat four eggs without separating. Add one pint of milk, and stir gradually into three cups of flour, sifted with half a teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Beat very thoroughly when half the Uquid has been added. The eggs might be added with half the milk, as all the milk may not be needed. Heat the rosette iron in hot fat. Dip into the batter to half its height, and return to the hot fat until the cake is cooked a deUcate brown. Shake from the iron on to soft paper. Serve, sprinkled with powdered sugar, as a dessert dish, or spread the rosettes with jam or preserves and ornament with whipped cream. The batter should stand an hour after being mixed before the rosettes are fried. In winter it may be kept for days, and used as occasion requires, either for this or other purposes, as to coat quarters of banana for frying. QOLDEN BALL FRITTERS (CHOU PASTE) i cup of boiling water. Crating of lemon rind. 3 level tablespoonfuls of butter. 2 eggs. i cup- of flour. Melt the butter in the boiling water, add the flour and cook and stir until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan; add the lemon rind and turn into a cold dish, then beat in the eggs one at a time, COFFEE SOUFFLE 501 beating the first in very thorotighly before the second is added; then drop the dough into hot fat by the teaspoonful. Stir the fat when the batter is dropped into it, thus causing the fritter to take the shape of a ball. Serve hot, roUed in powdered sugar, or with maple sj^up, or common sugar syrup, flavored to taste. HOT SOUFFLES, OR SOUFFLE PUDDINGS Souffles quite generally appear under the list of puddings. In reality, if they are to be considered puddings at all, they should be classed by themselves, in that they are distinguished from ordinary puddings by the fact that raw egg, which requires little cooking, is added to a foundation that has been already well cooked. This foundation is practically an ordinary sauce like a white sauce. The egg is beaten light and folded into the mixture, which is then baked with care, to insure a very light texture. Careme advises that souffles be made broad, and not high — that is, twelve inches by three or four — probably this advice is good as thus less weight is held up by the delicate cells. Souffles are successful only when they are light and spongy, and fine rather than coarse grained. In baking let the oven be moderately hot. Surroimd the dish by a band of oiled or buttered paper, to afford room for the rising of the mixture. Fasten the band together with a drop of mucilage or with a pin before the mixture is turned into the souffle dish. The different varieties of souffles take their names from some distin- guishing flavor or ingredient (see also Fish and Meat Souffles, under the chapter on Entrees). COFFEE SOUFFLE. (MARIETTA McPHERSON) 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. J teaspoonful of salt. 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. The yolks of three eggs. 1 cup of black coffee. The whites of three eggs, i cup of sugar. Make a sauce of the first three ingredients — i. e., melt the butter and in it cook the flour imtU frothy, then add the coffee gradually and stir until thick and smooth. Remove from the fire, add the sugar, salt, and yolks of eggs, beaten until thick and smooth, fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten very stiff, pour the mixture into a buttered baking dish, and bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with coffee sauce. 502 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING CUSTARD SOUFFLE 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. The yolks of four eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls of flour. The whites of four eggs. I cup of milk. i teaspoonful of salt. J cup of sugar. Prepare as coffee souffle. Serve with Sabayon, creamy or straw- berry sauce. CHERRY souffle' PUDDING i cup of butter. 4 ounces, or one cup of bread J cup of flour. crumbs. ij cups of milk. The grated rind of one half a lemon. I cup of cream. 3 eggs. i teaspoonful of salt. 6 ounces of stoned cherries. J cup of sugar. Glac6 cherries. Melt the butter, add the flour and salt and cook until frothy; add the milk and cream gradually, let cook a few moments and then add the crumbs, the grated rind and the yolks of the eggs, beaten and mixed with the sugar, and lastly the stoned cherries and the whites of the eggs, whisked to a stiff froth. Turn into a buttered mould, decorated with glace cherries, and steam an hour and a half. Turn on to a hot dish and serve with wine sauce or a fruit pur6e. This souffle may be baked and served from the baking dish. Is best baked. MACAROON souffle' I dozen macaroons. French fruit, chopped fine. I cup of milk. Whipped cream. 3 eggs. Scald the macaroons in the milk, pour over the beaten yolks of the eggs, and cook over hot water until thickened slightly; fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, and bake in a buttered mould, set in a pan of hot water, about twenty minutes. Turn from the mould, sprinkle the top with the fruit, and surround with the whipped cream. COCOANUT souffle (BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL) li cups of milk. i tablespoonful of butter. 1 cup of sugar. i cup of cocoanut. 3 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch. The whites of four eggs. RUM OMELET 503 Mix the cornstarch, sugar and cocoanut, and stir into the hot milk; let cook ten minutes, stirrmg occasionally; add the butter and fold in the whites of the eggs. Bake in individual moulds, buttered and sprinkled with sugar, about twelve minutes. Let the moulds stand in a dish of hot water. Turn from the moulds, put a spoonful of strawberry jam upon the top and pour around the souffles a pint of boiled custard, made with yolks of the eggs. Put the jelly in place on serving, to avoid displacement while they are being brought to the dining-room. SPONQE BATTER PUDDING ij cups of hot milk. The yolks of four eggs. J cup of flour. i cup of sugar. i cup of cold milk. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter, i teaspoonful of salt. The whites of four eggs. Stir the flour, salt and cold milk together until smooth, then cook in the hot milk ten minutes, add the butter and yolks of eggs, beaten with the sugar, and fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten stiS. Bake in a well-buttered pudding dish about thirty minutes. The heat of the oven should be moderate and the dish should stand in hot water during the baking (see Souffles). Serve with Sabayon, wine or creamy sauce. OMELET SOUFFLfi 5 eggs. The grated rind of one half a lemon. 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. sugar. I teaspoonful of salt. Beat the yolks of the eggs until light colored and thick; add the sugar gradually, then the grated rind and lemon juice; pour this mixture over the whites of the eggs, beaten with the salt until dry, and cut and fold the two together. Turn into a buttered baking dish, or into individual cases, and hake in a quick oven imtil well puffed and of a delicate brown color. Serve at once with hard or Sabayon sauce. For directions in respect to omelets, see chapter on eggs. RUM OMELET 6 eggs. 4 tablespoonfuls of rum or lemon 3 tablespoonfuls of powdered juice and water. sugar. 3 taUespoonfuls of butter. } teaspoonful of salt. J cup of hot Jamaica rum, 504 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Prepare and cook as any omelet (see chapter on eggs), letting the omelet be rather underdone. Turn on to a serving-dish, pour over the rum, light and send to the table while burning. PINEAPPLE OMELET 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. i cup of sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls of flour. i teaspoonful of lemon juice. i teaspoonful of salt. S eggs. 1 cup of grated pineapple. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. Cook the flour and salt in the bubbhng butter; add the pine- apple (juice and pulp) gradually, the sugar and the lemon juice, and let cook ten minutes, then remove from the fire and stir into the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light; fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten dry, and turn into the frying-pan in which the butter is melted. Cook as a puffy omelet, turn on to the serving-dish and sift powdered sugar thickly over the top. Score diagonally with a hot iron. Serve surrounded with a second cup of grated pine- apple, cooked with one fourth cup of sugar, to which a tablespoon- ful of lemon juice has been added, to bring out the flavor of the pineapple. If preferred, garnish with quarter slices of pineapple, saturated with hot syrup and flavored to taste. Rum is con- sidered the proper flavor. Oranges, strawberries or raspberries may take the place of the pineapple, and any one of these may be added to a plain French or puffy omelet. In using berries as a garnish, mix with powdered sugar; if raspberry seeds be objection- able, crush the berries and press through a sieve, then mix with sugar. Oranges should be sliced. OMELET WITH STRAWBERRY JAM AND CHERRIES 3 eggs. I tablespoonful of butter. 2 tablespoonfuls of maraschino. Strawberry jam. i cup of maraschino cherries. Cherries and maraschino. Beat the yolks very light and add the maraschino and the cher- ries cut in pieces; fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten dry, and turn into a hot omelet pan, in which the butter has been melted. Spread the mixture evenly and let cook a moment on the cover, to set the eggs, then put into the oven until cooked. A knife cut down into the centre of the omelet will indicate this; the egg needs be set, but only lightly. Score the omelet at right angles to the handle of the pan, spread one half lightly with the jam, turn on to the serving-dish and surround with a narrow wreath of jam, diluted with maraschino from the cherry bottle, and cherries. CHAPTER XXII Sweet Sauces SYNOPSIS OF CHAPTER / Sauces thickened with starchy mateiiab. [Liquid. J Sauces thickened with egg emulsion. ( Fruit juice sauces. Sweet Sauces. (Hard. ^Solid. (Fruit jellies. Sauces for sweet dishes may be considered as solid or liquid. The solid sauces include "hard sauce," so called, and the various fruit jellies. The Uquid sauces make up the larger division, and may be subdivided according to the material that gives them con- sistency, as a starchy material, egg emulsion, sugar syrup alone, or sugar in conjimction with a fruit puree. Sauces served with ices are given under the subject of frozen desserts. SAUCES THICKENED WITH STARCHY MATERIAL All sauces of this description may be made with white roux as described on page 21. By preference, however, the starchy in- gredient, flour, cornstarch or arrowroot, is mixed with the sugar by sifting, and the grains of starch, thus separated, are stirred into a hot liquid, milk, water or fruit juice. Flavoring is added at pleasure, and a little butter just at the point of serving. Starch, here, as always, needs thorough cooking to be palatable. Add flavor and butter afterward. MARASCHINO SAUCE Sift together one teaspoonful of arrowroot and one third cup of granulated sugar, pour on two thirds cup of boiling water and cook 5o6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING five minutes; add half a tablespoonful of butter, one fourtt cup of maraschino cherries cut in halves, half a cup of maraschino syrup, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Cornstarch or flour may be used, but the arrowroot gives a clearer and less opaque sauce. Serve with baked bananas, banana or apple fritters, custard souflEle, German puffs, or cottage pudding. MOCK CREAM (to be used in place of cream on boiled rice, etc.) Scald one pint of milk in a double-boiler; stir into this two tea- spoonfuls of cornstarch, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and let cook ten minutes. Wlien cold and ready to serve add a teaspoonful of vanilla and the whites of two eggs, beaten until frothy. BRANDY SAUCE FOR STEAMED PUDDINGS Sift together one fourth cup of flour and one cup of sugar; stir in a pint of boiling water and let cook fifteen minutes, stirring con- stantly at first, and occasionally afterward; add one fourth cup of butter in little bits, beating constantly, meanwhile. Flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla or brandy to taste. Brown sugar gives a differently flavored sauce. If this be used make a white roux with the butter and flour, add the water and then the sugar and flavoring. TUTTI-FRUTTI SAUCE FOR BAKED BANANAS, FRITTERS, ETC. Remove the stems from half a cup of sultana raisins and wash in cold water; add one fourth cup, each, of chopped citron and blanched almonds and a cup of boiling water and let simmer an hour, or until the raisins are tender. Ten minutes before serving, stir in a level teaspoonful of cornstarch, sifted with three fourths cup of sugar (there should now be a generous cup of water with the fruit), and let cook six or eight minutes. Add a tablespoonful of butter and lemon or vanilla if desired. BANANA SAUCE 4 ripe bananas. i cup of water. 3 oranges. 2 level teaspoonfuls of anrowroot or 1 tart apple, thin-sliced. cornstarch, i cup of sugar. OR.\NGE SABAYON SAUCE 507 Pass the pulp of the bananas through a ricer or sieve and -add the pulp of the oranges, the apple, sliced, and the water; when boiling stir in the sugar, thoroughly mixed with the cornstarch, and stir until the boiling point is reached, then let simmer ten minutes; strain and serve. LEMON OR ORANQE SAUCE 2 teaspoonfuls of cornstarch. Juice and grated rind of one lemon I cup of sugar. or orange. I pint of boiling water. 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. See "Sauce Thickened with Starchy Materials." ROYAL SAUCE a teaspoonfuls of cornstarch or | cup of jelly or jam. arrowroot. The juice of one half a lemon. Cold water to pour. i tablespoonful of brandy at dis- I cup of boiling water. cretion. Cook the cornstarch, diluted with water, in the boiling water five minutes; add the jelly or jam, beaten smooth, and let simmer three or foiu: minutes; add sugar, if needed, and the lemon juice; strain and serve. SAUCES THICKENED WITH EQG EMULSION For Boiled Custard see page 460. SABAYON SAUCE FOR CUSTARD SOUFFL§, COTTAGE PUDDINQ, ETC. In the upper part of a double-boiler put one whole egg and two yolks and beat until well mixed; then add half a cup of sugar and beat thoroughly. Set over very hot, but not actually boiling, water and beat while half a cup of sherry wine is gradually stirred in. When the sauce has thickened slightly add a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and turn into a cold dish to arrest the cooking. Serve at once. This is a rich and most delicious sauce. Care needs be taken to avoid curdHng the egg. Lift the saucepan from the water, occasionally, which should not reach the boiling point. ORANQE SABAYON SAUCE In the upper part of a double-boiler cream one fourth cup of butter; add the yolks of four eggs, one at a time, and beat in Uior- So8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING oughly;. then add one fourth cup of sugar and, when all are blended, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and cook over hot water, stirring constantly. When thickened slightly add one fourth cup of orange juice and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. COLD COFFEE SAUCE. (MARIETTA MCPHERSON) (for cx)ffee souffle, filling foe cream puffs, etc.) 3 eggs. J cup of clear black coffee. i cup of sugar. I cup of double cream A few grains of salt. Beat the eggs, add the sugar and salt and cook in the coffee in- fusion as a boiled custard. When the mixture coats the spoon strain into a cold dish, and when cold and ready to serve fold in the cream beaten stiff. COLD CHOCOLATE SAUCE (for chocolate, vanilla or custard souffle or other hot pudding) 3 eggs. I cup of hot milk. i cup of sugar. § cup of double cream. J ounce of chocolate. J teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. 2 tablespoonfuls of hot water. § teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Melt the chocolate, add a teaspoonful of sugar and the hot water, and cook until smooth and glossy; then add to the milk and con- tinue as for cold coffee sauce. MOUSSELINE SAUCE (HOT) Beat the yolks of five eggs very light; add one fourth cup of sugar and one fourth cup of maraschino and beat while cooking over hot water; when thickened, remove from the fire and fold in the whites of two eggs, beaten dry, and reheat, if necessary, to set the white of egg. The sauce should be very light like a souffle. Good with any hot pudding. Serve in a dish apart. COLD MOUSSELINE SAUCE WITH FRUIT PUREE Boil half a cup of water and three fourths cup of sugar to the thread degree, then stir in a fine stream on to the beaten yolks of YELLOW SAUCE 509 six eggs, beating constantly meanwhile; add two tablespoonfuis of Kirsch and a half cup of strawberry or raspberry pur6e (fresh berries mashed and passed through a sieve). Set the dish on ice and stir with a whisk until cold, then fold in three fourths cup of whipped and drained cream and the whites of three eggs, beaten dry. Let stand on ice until ready to serve. Suitable for ices and cold puddings. (This sauce may also be frozen and served as a parfait.) CREAMY SAUCE Boil one cup of sugar and half a cup of water to a thick syrup (six or eight minutes), and pour in a fine stream on to the white of an egg, beaten until foamy but not dry. Set the sauce into a dish of ice water and beat until cold, then fold in a cup of whipped cream. Flavor to taste. CREAMY SAUCE, NO. 2 (charlotte eusse cream) Flavor one pint of double cream with wine or a teaspoonful of vanilla and beat solid with a whisk or Dover egg-beater. Beat the whites of two eggs until dry; fold in one cup of powdered sugar and beat them Ughtly into the whipped cream. Serve very cold with blanc-mange, baked apples, compotes, etc. LEMON SAUCE Cream half a cup of butter, add gradually one cup of powdered sugar, and beat until light; add the white of two eggs, one at a time, beating steadily. When about ready to serve set the sauce- pan, containing the sauce, in boiling water over the fire; add one fourth cup of lemon juice and one fourth cup of boiling water and stir imtil creamy. Remove to a cooler dish and serve at once. The flavor of lemon will be heightened by grating a little of the yellow rind into the butter and sugar. YELLOW SAUCE Beat the yolk of an egg until light, and the white until foamy; add half a cup of sugar to the yolli, then fold in the white; add half a. teaspoonful of vanilla, and one cup of scalded milk; mix thor- oughly and serve. Sio PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING FROTHY SAUCE Cream half a cup of butter and a cup of sugar and add the frothed white of an egg; stir in half a cup of boiling water, two teble- spoonfuls of wine and a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. FRUIT JUICE SAUCE Put the fruit in a jar with from half to a whole cup of water to a pint of frviit, cover and let stand on a trivet, in a pail of water brought slowly to the boiling point, half an hour or more, or until the juice flows freely. Pass through a cheesecloth, and thicken one pint of juice with half to a whole cup of sugar mixed with one or two teaspoonfuls of cornstarch. Cook from five to ten minutes, skimming as needed. The sugar is often used without the corn- starch. COLD STRAWBERRY SAUCE Hull, wash, and drain a basket of ripe strawberries and press them through a ricer. Boil together three fourths cup of sugar and half a cup of water ten minutes; let cool, add the strawberry pulp and, if desired, half a teaspoonful of vanilla. APRICOT SAUCE Boil together ten minutes half a cup of apricot marmalade, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and four tablespoonfuls of water; add the juice of half a lemon and pour over and around a chocolate Bavarian cream or a hot mould of brioche. CURRANT JELLY SAUCE Boil one cup of granulated sugar and one third cup of water, without stirring, four or five minutes; add four (level) tablespoonfuls of currant jelly. As soon as the sauce boils again, add the juice of a lemon and strain through a fine sieve. If a very fine sauce be desired, add a handful of preserved or candied cherries. CHERRY SAUCE (HOT OR COLD PUDDINGS) Simmer one cup of stoned cherries, one cup of claret, two table- spoonfuls of currant jelly, the yellow peel of a lemon, an inch of cinnamon bark and one fourth cup of sugar, until reduced nearly one half; remove the cinnamon bark and lemon peel before serving. CARAMEL SAUCE 511 BANANA PURfeE FOR BRIOCHE TIMBALES, ETC. Press the pulp of two bananas, the juice and pulp of an orange and one fourth cup of apricot marmalade through a sieve; add one fourth cup of sugar and heat over boiling water; when thor- oughly scalded let cool and, before serving, add, at discretion, one tablespoonful, each, of maraschino and brandy. Serve with cold or iced desserts. COLD ORANQE SAUCE I cup of sugar. The juice and pulp of four oranges. I cup of water. The juice of half a lemon. I teaspoonful of gelatine. i teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 3 tablespoonfula of cold water. Boil the sugar and water ten minutes; add the gelatine, softened in the cold water, let cool and strain into the fruit juice; add the extract, or cook a vanilla bean in the syrup. Cool before using. HARD SAUCE (FOR HOT PUDDING) Cream half a cup of butter and add very gradually a cup of sugar, beating between each addition; when all the sugar has been added and the mixture is very light, add, one by one, the whites of two eggs, and when again very light add the flavoring drop by drop. A teaspoonful of vanilla, a tablespoonful of brandy, rum or wine, or a grating of nutmeg, are preferred. The egg whites may be omitted. This sauce may be shaped in a neat mould on a small choice dish, or it may be disposed in a wreath around a dark fruit pudding. Arranged in the latter fashion, a silver fork may be used to give a scroll-like effect to the surface. HARD SAUCE WITH FRUIT Prepare as above, using the white of one egg, then beat in very gradually one cup of mashed strawberries or raspberries. The raspberries should be strained, to eliminate the seeds. These fruits are favorites, but others may be used. CARAMEL SAUCE Put half a cup of sugar into a saucepan over the fire, and stir the sugar until it melts and becomes of light brown color; add half a cup of boiling water and allow the liquid to simmer five minutes. SI 2 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING CARAMEL SAUCE, NO, 2 Boil three fourths cup of sugar, an inch of stick cinnamon, two cloves, a thin paring of yellow rind of lemon, and a cup of boiling water ten minutes; strain over one fourth cup of sugar, cooked to the caramel degree, let boil two or three minutes and then keep hot until the caramel is dissolved. Serve, either with or without three tablespoonfuls of sherry, with baked custards, cabinet pudding, boiled rice, etc. BURNT CREAM SAUCE In a small saucepan, over the iire, stir half a cup of sugar until it becomes a golden-brown caramel; add one pint of thin cream and set over hot water until the caramel liquifies. MERINGUE (FOR PUDDINGS AND PIES) Use two tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar for each white of •gg, and half a teaspoonful of flavoring extract for each four whites of eggs. Beat the whites until stiff, but not quite dry — whites of eggs are beaten "dry" when the bowl containing them may be inverted without disturbing the contents; beat in the sugar gradu- ally and continue the beating until the mixture is very firm and glossy. The surface upon which the merginue is to be spread should first be cooled somewhat. The meringue may be spread evenly, or piled in a dome shape in the centre. A part of the mix- ture may be reserved and put in place mth a pastry bag and tube. Cook in a moderate oven from eight to twelve minutes, according to the thickness of the meringue. RUM SAUCE FOR BABA AND PLUM PUDDING s cups of granulated sugar. J cup of water I cup of rum. Boil the sugar and water to a syrup of good consistency, then add the rum. This is enough sauce for baba made with four eggs. PINEAPPLE SAUCE FOR BABA Boil two cups of grated pineapple, the juice of half a lemon and one cup and a half of sugar five or six minutes. WINE SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING 513 COLD SABAYON SAUCE ROYAL Beat one whole egg and two yolks; add half a cup of sugar and beat again; add half a cup of sherry and stir and cook over hot water until thickened. Add a teaspoonful of lemon juice and let cool. When ready to serve fold in from half to three fourths cup of cream, beaten firm. WINE SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; beat in the yolks of two eggs, then very gradually beat in one fourth cup of wine. The wine should be added a few drops at a time. The finished sauce should be smooth and thick as cream. CHAPTER XXin Fruit, Fresh and Cooked, for Immediate Use FRESH FRUIT AND ITS SERVICE "If strawberries be not in season, buy them not at a great price. It Is neither art nor courtesy to invite your friends to be 'eating money,' as the saying is. A guest should be led to think always that her meal tasted pleas- antly, never that its cost was disagreeable." Refiue Water Per Per cent. cent. . Apples as o 63. Apricots . ...... 6.0 7g. Bananas 35.0 48. Blackberries .... 86 . Cherries 5.0 76 . Cranberries .... 88 . Currants 85 . Figs 79. Grapes 25.0 58. Huckleberries 81 . Lemons 30 . o 62 . Muskmelons.. . .50.0 44. Orajiges 27.0 63. Pears 10. o 76. Pineapple (edi- ble portion) . 89. Plums 5.0 74. Primes 5.8 75, Raspberries (red) ... 85 . Strawberries.... 5,0 85. Watermelons 59 . 4 37 . >J OF kTWATE TKESB r) Fiurr. AS PURCHASED. Protein Per cent. Fat Per cent. Carbo- hydrates Per cent. Ash Per cent. peilb. Calories. •3 •3 10.8 3 220 I .0 12.6 •5 22s .8 ■4 14-3 .6 300 13 1.0 10.9 •S 270 •9 .8 iS-9 .6 34S ■4 .6 9.9 .2 "S i-S 12.8 •7 26s IS 18.8 .6 380 1 .0 1.2 14.4 •4 .3.35 .6 .6 14.6 ■3 345 •7 •5 S-9 ■ 4 I4S ■3 4.6 3 90 .6 .1 8.5 ■4 170 ■5 ■4 12.7 ■4 360 ■4 ■3 9-7 •3 2O0 ■9 19. 1 •S 370 •7 17-4 •S 335 I.O 12.6 .6 255 •9 .6 7.0 .6 175 3 , t i 7 ■3 140 514 PROPER TIME TO EAT FRUIT 515 DRIED FRUIT Carbo- Refuse Water Protein Fat hydrates Asb Fuel val. Per Per Per Per Per Per per lb. cent. cent. cent. cent. cent. cent. Calories. Currants. .. 17.2 2-4 1-7 74.2 4-5 1 495 Dates . . . .10.0 13.8 19 2 5 70.6 1 .2 1.450 Figs 18.8 4 3 •3 74.2 2-4 1-475 Prunes ....IS.O 19.0 1.8 62.2 2,0 1 . 190 Raisins .... . . . .10.0 131 2.3 3.0 68.5 31 I -455 As WILL be seen by a glance at the table showing the composition of various kinds of fruit, the food value of fruit depends upon the carbohydrates, which is chiefly in the form of sugar. In but a few varieties does the proteid principle reach one per cent. The date and plantain, of which the banana is a variety, contain, however, sufficient nutriment to sustain life. But fruit is valuable for other than its nutritive qualities; eaten freely it introduces large quanti- ties of water into the system, as well as salts and organic acids that improve the quality of the blood. It also gives a relish to plainer foods. The largest use of fruit is with some form of starch in sweet dishes, but it is quite as acceptable, after a taste for it has been acquired without sugar, with meats. PROPER TIME TO EAT FRUIT, DIETETICALLV CONSIDERED When fruit is eaten uncooked, for special dietetic purposes, the effect is always more pronounced if it be taken alone an hour before the meal, or between meals. An exception would seem wise in the case of berries containing hard seeds; these are likely to cause less intestinal irritation when eaten with bread or other bulky food. Taken at the close of a meal the water in fruit is liable to interfere with digestion until such time as it can be absorbed by the lining of the stomach. The diuretic influence of fruit is in part due to the water in com- position, but principally to the presence of organic acids and salts, which stimulate the circulation of the blood and also the action of the kidneys. The laxative action of fruits is partly — but not wholly — due to indigestible and irritating substances, as the seeds of figs and berries and the skins of prunes. Children, and older people who 5i6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING are not in robust health, need avoid the seeds and tough skins even of cooked fruit, nor should they indulge in friiit of coarse fibre. To be wholesome fruit needs be ripe but not overripe. As fruit ripens, the starch in composition is changed into levulose or glucose, substances more assimilable than starch, and pectin, a carbo- hydrate (principle), which occasions the jellying of fruit when it is boiled, is formed. The tannin and vegetable acids are also changed and the fruit becomes less astringent. If frxiit be overripe, bacteria, which have already begun the tearing down process, are introduced into the alimencary tract, and malfermentation with pain, cramps, nausea and other attendant ills, is likely to ensue. TO SERVE UNCOOKED FRUIT Fruit is most inviting when it is fresh-gathered, or picked with the heat of the sun upon it; exception is to be made in the case of melons, which are best when thoroughly chilled. Green leaves are needed in arranging fruit for the table or sideboard. In case the natural leaves of the fruit itself are not admissible, grape, currant or laurel leaves may be called into requisition. In this connection it might be noticed that time was when fruit was made a notable feature in table decoration; but at the present day — save at Thanksgiving or harvest spreads — fruits, except, perhaps, a basket of choice strawberries, or cherries with blossoms and leaves, seem no longer admissible for this purpose. FRESH FRUIT AT MEALS The English custom is to serve fruit at the close of the breakfast, but, dietetically considered, the beginning of the meal is prefer- able in point of propriety. Theoretically, acid fruit should not be combined at the same meal with starchy food, for the digestive action of the ptyaHn of the saliva is inhibited in the presence of an acid. On this accovmt the sweet fruits, dates, figs and bananas, are to be given first place as break- fast fruits; whole mildly acid fruits, pineapples, grapes, peaches, pears, some varieties of apples, preferably cooked, sweet oranges and berries are indicated as a second choice. Add fruits should accompany meats. Fruit is almost universaUy eaten with sugar, but the combination cannot be considered hygienic, being very liable to produce malfermentation in the alimentary tract. WAYS TO SERVE ORANGES 517 APPLES Apples may be polished for table service, but unless cooked they are eaten preferably between meals. The different ways in which they may be acceptably cooked for the table is almost Hmitless. PEARS Pears may be polished, and when fully ripe, being of finer texture than apples, they are more readily digested, and hence are better adapted than raw apples to table service. They are chiefly valu- able on account of their aroma and flavor. ORANGES Sweet oranges are particularly valuable, since they are palatable without sugar. Oftentimes in sickness, in case of great gastric irritation, when food is not well borne, the juice of a ripe orange will be found very acceptable. In cases of flatulency, the juice will be found most agreeable, taken undiluted and with the avoid- ance of even a trace of the oil from the rind. The oil or zest of both lemons and oranges is found entirely in the yellow rind. Even when fresh this oil, though most palatable, will cause eructa- tion from the stomach. This fact should be noted most carefully in removing the juice of these fruits for jellies or ices. With a spoon or a glass lemon squeezer the juice may be extracted with- out trace of the zest. WAYS TO SERVE ORANGES AT BREAKFAST Cut the oranges in halves, crosswise. Half an orange is one service. Serve on a plate with an orange spoon. Powdered sugar is passed. Grapefruit is served in the same way. SECTION OF ORANGE PULP, FREED FROM MEMBRANE Peel an orange. With a thin-bladed, sharp knife cut down from the surface to the centre at one side of a membrane enclosing a section of pulp, then cut down close to the pulp on the other side of ihe membrane; a third time cut down to the centre, close to the next membrane, and take out the section of pulp, thus loosened, Si8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING in one piece; then cut down close to the other side of a mem- brane, taking out the pulp as before. So proceed until all pulp is removed, when the whole membrane or framework of the orange will be left in one piece. SECTIONS OF ORANGE, HELD ON BAND OF PEEL Score the peel of an orange at both ends, so as to leave a solid band about an inch wide around the centre, and cut away the rest of the peel. Sever the band at the jvmction of two sections, ana separate the sections from each other, leaving all attached to the band. ORANQE IN SECTIONS, PEEL RETAINED Score the orange in eighths, from the stem nearly to the blossom end, and carefully loosen the peel; then loosen the sections from one another, without removing them from the peel at the blossom end. Serve in this way; or roll inward the points of the peel to form a border around the base of the fruit. Serve in a fruit dish with other fruit, or on individual plates. SALPICON OF FRUIT IN GRAPEFRUIT BASKET Cut grapefruit in halves. Remove and save the pulp and juice, discarding the fibrous part. With a pinking iron and sharp knife decorate the edge of the shells. A ribbon may be rim through the openings, if approved. Avoid open decorations at a distance from the edge, for obvious reasons. Let the shells chill on ice, and at serving time fill with the juice and pulp of the fruit, white grapes, skinned and seeded, and thin slices of bananas, chilled and mixed with powdered sugar. Serve as a first or last course at a formal luncheon. Other fruit may be used and the salpicon may be served in sherbet, frappe or champagne glasses. Wine may be added at pleasure. PINEAPPLES The pineapple is the only fruit that is known materially to aid digestion. The pineapple contains a principle, vegetable pepsin, that digests albuminous substances. When fresh juice of the fruit is combined in dishes with milk, eggs or gelatine, the digestive process is at once inaugurated and a bitter-tasting dish results. Scalding the juice destroys this digestive principle, and should be observed when the juice is to be combined with such substances. PEACHES HALF FROZEN 519 But to get the full benefit of the digestive principle, as also the antiseptic and germicidal properties of the pineapple juice, the fruit needs be eaten fresh and without sugar. Thus taken its bene- ficial effects can scarcely be overestimated. It is particularly useful in all catarrhal conditions of the throat and alimentary tract, and is almost a specific in malarial troubles. The woody fibre in a perfectly ripe pineapple has become softened in the ripen- ing process, but when this condition has not been reached the juice only should be ingested. PINEAPPLE, SHREDDED Remove the tough outer surface of the pineapple, then with a silver fork, following the lines made by the bracts, cut around the single fruits and remove them, one by one, from the hard centre. Sprinkle with sugar, if desired. Serve at breakfast or luncheon . PINEAPPLE AND ORANGES, HALF FROZEN Cut off the top of a large pineapple. Pare away the base so that it may stand upright and firm on the plate. With knife and strong spoon scoop out the pulp of the apple and separate the same from the hard centre. Peel about four sweet oranges, slice lengthwise and remove the seeds; mix the juice and pulp of the oranges and pineapple with sugar to taste; put in a fruit jar with a close-fitting cover and pack in three measures of ice to one of salt; let stand an hour or more. When ready to serve turn the mixture into the chilled shell of the pineapple and garnish the base with leaves of the crown. Pineapple alone, when a second one wUl be required, strawberries, bananas, or peaches may be used in the place of the oranges. Half a cup of orange, less of lemon juice, is an improve- ment, when bananas are used. If bananas are not used, half a cup or more of Jamaica rum is considered an improvement by many. It is not safe to use any sort of spirits with uncooked bananas. PEACHES, HALF FROZEN Cut very ripe peaches into halves and remove the stones and skins; sprinkle withpowderedsugar and put into the can of a freezer; pack the can in crushed ice without salt, or with very little salt, and let stand until the peaches are half-frozen Arrange in a glass serving-dish, in the form of a wreath, and sprinkle again with su^ar. 520 PRACTICAL CCX)KING AND SERVING Pile thick cream, sweetened, flavored and whipped, in the centre of the dish. PEACHES AND GRAPES (FOR INVALID'S TRAY) Select large, ripe, juicy peaches and brush the surface of each gently with a soft brush, to remove the down. Select a bunch of sweet, juicy grapes: if procured at the market, let water from the faucet run gently over them a few moments, then drain in a cool place. All grapes and berries procured at market need be rinsed in water and drained before sending to table. STRAWBERRIES, FRENCH FASHION Select clean, ripe berries. Remove neither hulls nor stems, but with soft brush touch the surface of each berry gently, as also the sepals on both sides, to remove any sand. Garnish with strawberry leaves and blossoms. Serve with a spoonful of sifted, powdered sugar, from a separate dish. If the berries have not been fresh- gathered, chill before sers'ing. Serve at breakfast, or as the first course (appetizer) or last course (dessert) of a luncheon. MELONS Melons, though eaten as fruit, are in reality vegetables. They belong to the same family as the squash. Among the children of Israel in the wilderness, a cause of murmuring was the lack of cucumbers and melons, for which the people longed. Indeed, the melon, which is one of the earliest known vegetables, seems always to have been much relished. "The Emperor Frederick, of Ger- many, and Maximilian II were alike so inordinately fond of melons that they both became ultimately victims to the passion." At- water gives 50 per cent, of the muskmelon as waste matter, and of the remaining part 44.8 is water, a most grateful contribution to the summer diet. The nutritive value of melons, represented by the sweet elements, is very small, but they contain no indigesti- ble fibrous matter. The Chinese method of serving melons — that is, half frozen — is well adapted to bring out their delicacy and flavor. Melons are really wholesome only when eaten fresh from the vine, after chilling. TO SERVE WATERMELONS Chill by standing on ice several hours. Cut the ends even, that the halves may stand level, then send to the table cut in halves SALPICON OF FRUIT IN MUSKMELONS 521 crosswise, each half resting on a mat of grape or currant leaves. With a tablespoon scoop out the red pulp in egg-shaped pieces. Serve on chilled plates. The pulp may also be scooped out and sent to the table in half of the shell or in a handsome dish. The pulp from the whole melon will be needed to fill half the shell. WATERMELON A LA STEAMER PRISCILLA Cut a section, four inches thick, from the centre of a chilled watermelon. Separate the green rind, leaving the edible portion a round of pink melon pulp; place upon a serving-dish of average size. In serving cut in the same manner as a pie. WATERMELON SERVED IN WEDQE-SHAPED SLICES Cut the chilled melon in halves, crosswise. Let each half rest on a bed of grape leaves, trimming the melon to rest evenly on the dish. Cut triangular sections from the melon, and serve with rind MELONS, CHINESE METHOD Scoop out the edible pulp with a tablespoon, remove the seeds, sprinkle with powdered sugar and grated ginger root, turn into the can of the freezer and pack in ice and salt. After standing ten minutes tiurn the crank gently, for a few moments; repeat several times. Serve half frozen. Avoid turning the crank to crush the pulp. MELON SALAD SWEET Cut the edible portion of a chilled melon into small cubes, or take out the pulp in smaJl pieces with a spoon. Mix together half a cup of sugar and a scant teaspoonful of cinnamon; sprinkle this over a quart of melon, toss together and serve from a salad bowl or from a bowl basket fashioned out of the shell from which the pulp was taken. SALPICON OF FRUIT IN HALVED MUSKMELONS Chill small melons, cut in halves and remove seeds, but retain the pulp intact. Fill with a chilled mixture of sliced peaches, shredded pineapple, and sections of orange, removed from the membrane and mixed with sugar. 522 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING NUTMEG AND SMALL MELONS Chill thoroughly, cut in halves and remove seeds. Make half a melon each service. Sugar and cinnamon, or paprika and salt, may be passed in a glass or silver dredger. ICE CREAM SERVED IN MUSKMELONS Select melons about the size of a large orange. Cut a piece from the top of each to serve as a cover. Pass a short piece of narrow ribbon through slits in this and tie in a bow upon the top, as a means of lifting the cover. Remove the seeds from the melons and chill thoroughly on ice. When ready to serve fill the melons with ice cream, and put the covers in place. Ice cream, flavored with lemon and cinnamon, or with vanilla, and eaten with the pulp of the melon, is considered an agreeable combination. The idea dates back to the first days of the republic, when ice cream was first made in this country. CENTREPIECE OF FRUIT FOR THANKSGIVING DINNER OR HARVEST FESTIVAL Select a golden-colored, medium-sized, well-shaped pumpkin. With a sharp knife fashion into the shape of a basket with an old- fashioned tub handle on each side. Carefully scoop out the seeds and pulp, leaving a thin shell. Polish the rind and Hne the inside neatly with white paper. The paper may be held in place with pins. Fill the basket with apples, pears, and grapes of various hues. A mat of autumn leaves, maple or sumach, gives the finishing touch to this table ornament. A fruit basket, fashioned from a cabbage, is appropriate for halloween. A wooden trencher, hand-painted, filled with fndt, is peculiarly adapted to this use at Thanlsgiving, and a mat, fashioned from stalks or ripened grain and bright autumn leaves, can hardly be improved upon as a centrepiece for either of these receptables. COOKED FRUITS FOR IMMEDIATE USE APPLE SAUCE Pare, quarter, and core tart, juicy apples; add a little hot water and cook very quickly. When tender pass through a fine colandei; APPLE BAKED WITH ALMONDS 5,73 add a few grains of salt and sugar, sweeten to taste; let boil, then turn into a glass dish. Serve cold. APPLE SAUCE, NO. 2 Prepare as above, adding the salt and sugar with the water; let cook until tender over a hot fire. Serve very cold. APPLES, DUCHESS STYLE With a vegetable scoop cut out about two dozen balls from pared apples. Cook in a cup, each, of sugar and water with a teaspoonful of lemon juice until tender, but not broken, then drain and roll in melted currant jelly. Cook the trimmings of the apples with one or two apples, cut in quarters, in a Uttle water; pass through a sieve and simmer in the syrup until quite thick. Dispose the marmalade thus made about the balls and sprinkle with chopped pistachio nuts or almonds. APPLES IN SYRUP (FOR A GARNISH) Make a syrup of a cup, each, of sugar and water. Have ready apples cored, pared, and cut in rings; rub over the rings with the cut side of a lemon, to keep them white. Let cook in the syrup, two or three pieces at a time, turning often, to keep the shape. CHANTILLY APPLE SAUCE WITH HORSERADISH Cook about five medium-sized apples, pared and cored, in a very little water (steaming is preferable, as they should be very dry when cooked), pass through a fine sieve, and add to the pulp two table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar and one fourth cup of fresh-grated horseradish. When mixed thoroughly and cold fold in an equal bulk of whipped cream. Serve separately with young ducks or goslings. APPLES BAKED WITH ALMONDS Core and pare six or eight tart apples; let simmer in a cup, each, of sugar and water boiled together two or three minutes until nearly tender. Turn the apples often to avoid breaking. A little lemon juice added to the syrup will improve the flavor, or, if the apples be rubbed with the cut side of a lemon, it will help keep them white during the cooking. Set the apples in an agate pan, and 5;24. PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING press into them almonds, blanched and split in halves. Dredge with powdered sugar and brown in the oven. Serve hot with jelly or whipped cream and the cold syrup in which the apples were cooked. BLUSHING APPLES WITH ORANQE SAUCE Core six red apples and cook, without removing the skins, in boiling water until tender. Turn the apples often with a skimmer, that they may cook evenly. Remove to a plate, carefully take off the skins, and scrape off the red pulp adhering to the inside of the skins and replace it on opposite sides of each apple. Reduce the water to a cup or less, add a cup of sugar and the juice of an orange, also the grated rind, if wished; let simmer imtil a thick syrup is formed; pour this over the apples. Drop a spoonful of whipped cream on each, or serve the cream apart. BAKED APPLES, CREOLE STYLE Core and pare the apples. Put a little sugar, water, and lemon juice into a baking dish with the apples, and bake imtil tender, but not broken. Remove to a serving-dish, fill the centres with jelly or marmalade and pour the liquid from the baking dish over them. Make a meringue with the whites of two eggs and four tablespoon- f uls of sugar and flavor with lemon and vanilla. Press the meringue on to the tops of the apples, using a pastry bag and star tube. Bake in a moderate oven about eight minutes. The apples may be steamed or boiled in a syrup. Garnish with jelly. APPLES WITH JUNKET Have ready apples cooked in syrup or baked imtil tender. Set in individual dishes and sprinkle with chopped almonds. Heat a pint of fresh milk, to which one third cup of sugar has been added, until lukewarm (ioo° Fahr.), then stir into it half a jimket tablet, crushed and dissolved in a tablespoonful of cold water, add a few drops of vanilla extract and pour into the dish around the apples, which should have been cooled. The milk will jelly when cold. Garnish with candied cherries and whipped cream. APPLES WITH RICE Blanch one cup of rice, then cook in boiling salted water until tender, adding more water as needed. When done the water UTENSILS FOR MAKING PASTRY. Pastry fork and jagger, "Magic Covers" for board and rollino; pin. (See page 434.) SWEDISH TIMBALE IRON. APPLE CORER. CUTTERS FOR SANDWICHES OR CAKES. FRENCH PATTY CUTTER. PASTRY BAKED ON INVERTED TIN. Covering tin with caste. (See page 438.) PATTIES FILLED WITH ASPARAGUS TIPS IN BECHAMEL SAUCE (See papes 308 and 449-) CRANBERRY PIE. (Seepages 438 and 440. VOL-AU-VFNT' BAKED OVER A FORM. (See page 448.) JELLIED APPLES s^S should be absorbed and the kernels of rice distinct. Line small buttered cups with the rice; fill the centres closely with slices of apple cooked until tender, but not broken, in sugar and water; cover the apple with more rice, roimding the top slightly. Let steam or copk in the oven, standing in a dish of hot water, about fifteen minutes. Turn from the cups on to a serving dish and serve hot with a cold boiled custard, made of a pint of milk, the yolks of four eggs, half a cup of sugar and a few grains of salt. Mock cream, hard sauce, banana sauce, or lemon sauce, may replace the custard. FANCY BAKED APPLES. (MARIE MORAN) Peel and core medium-sized tart apples. Put them in a baiing dish and pour half a cup of water over them. Set in a hot oven and, when the apples are heated, sprinkle with enough sugar to coat each and bake until tender. Make a syrup of one cup of water, half a cup of sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and a teaspoonful of the grated rind. Add two tablespoonfuls of chopped raisins, two of chopped candied cherries, two of chopped candied pineapple, and two of chopped almonds and, when the sugar is dissolved, set at the back of the stove and let cook slowly half an hour. When the apples are done, put in Uttle glass saucers, taking care not to break them. Fill with the cooked sweets and pour the syrup over them. Serve cold with whipped cream. JELLIED APPLES, GARNISH OF WHIPPED CREAM Pare, quarter and core tart apples, and cut the quarters into two or three pieces. Put these into an earthen dish — a new bean pot, or a casserole is suitable — with layers of sugar between, using a cup and a half of sugar for about a quart of sUces. Add fourth cup of water, cover and let cook in a very slow oven three or more hours. When tender and very red and juicy add to the hot juice, drained from the apples, a scant fourth package of gelatine, softened in cold water, also a little lemon juice, if desired. Carefully lift a few pieces of apple at a time and dispose in an earthen bowl, adding a teaspoonful of the liquid, until all the ingredients are used. Let stand until cold and set, then turn from the mould and ornament with a piping of thick cream, beaten solid, or siuround with thin cream, beaten with a whip chum and drained. Syrup from a jar of preserved ginger may be added to the cream before whipping. The apples are also particularly good served hot, without gelatine, with cream and preserved ginger. 526 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING JELLIED APPLES. (MARIE MORAN) Soak half a box of gelatine in half a cup of cold water. Peel, core, and quarter two quarts of tart apples. Put a pint of water, the same of granulated sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of ginger in a saucepan. When the sugar is dissolved, let it boil ten minutes, then put in the apples, a few at a time. Let them code tOl tender, but not broken. Take out with a wire spoon and spread on a dish. When all the apples are cooked, pour the gelatine into the syrup, and stir until melted. Then set in cold water and stir until it begins to jelly. Wet a fancy mould, pour in some of the jelly, then arrange the apples in a layer, with a few bits of preserved ginger and lemon strewed over them ; pour over the rest of the semi- liquid jelly and set the mould away to harden. Serve with whipped cream. APPLES A LA MANHATTAN Pare and core eight medium-sized apples. Make ready round pieces of sponge cake — one for each apple — an inch in thickness and of the same size as the apple. Sprinkle with sugar and set them in the oven until the sugar melts. Make a syrup of a cup of sugar and a cup of water. Cook the apples very slowly in the syrup, cook until it is quite thick, then pour over the whole. Gar- nish with whipped cream and candied cherries . APPLE CHARLOTTE Pare and slice four or five times as many apples as will fill the dish in which the charlotte is to be made. Steam these until tender; then add sugar to taste and a generous piece of butter and cook the apples over the fire, stirring meanwhile, until they are very dry. Prepare sippets of bread an inch wide, by removing crust and dipping in melted butter; with these line a plain mould, mak- ing one sippet overlap another. Arrange lozenges of bread similarly in the bottom of the mould, turn in the apple, piling it high on the top, then cover with buttered bread. Bake half an hour in a hot oven. Turn from the mould on to a hot dish. Serve with sugar and cream or hot sauce. APPLE CROQUETTES 6 or 8 large apples. J teaspoonful of salt. J cup of sugar. 4 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch. A grating of lemon rind. The yolks of five eggs. 4 tablespoonfuls of butter. (i egg and bread crumbs.) BLACKBERRY SPONGE 527 Pare, quarter and core the apples; steam until tender, then cook with the sugar and lemon until very dry. Melt the butter and in it cook the cornstarch; add the apple pulp gradually, then the slightly beaten yolks of eggs; cook over hot water until the egg is set, then set aside to cool. Shape into cork or apple shapes, egg- and-bread-crumb, and fry in deep fat. Serve as a garnish for roast goose. The quantity of cornstarch may be increased and the number of egg yolks diminished accordingly, if desired. The yolk of an egg is equivalent to about a level tablespoonful of cornstarch. COMPOTE OF STUFFED PEARS WITH RICE Select pears that are not too ripe, pare, and scrape the stems. Beginning at the stem end, cut, as to halve, to the centre of the pear; then, at a right angle, cut across to the first incision, and then remove one fourth of the fruit. With a vegetable gouge remove the core and the blossom end. For seven or eight pears make a syrup of a cup and a quarter of sugar, a cup of water and the juice of half a lemon. Cook the pears, until tender, in the syrup. Cut out roimds of angelica, about half an inch in diameter, pierce these with a skewer, and slip one or two of them on to the stem of each pear, alternately with a candied cherry. Put a cherry over the end of the stem. Cut fine the trimmings of the angehca and two or three cherries, and add to a little quince marmalade. Fill the cavi- ties in the pears with this mixture, and arrange on the rice. Cook the syrup to a proper consistency and pour it over the dish. Serve hot or cold with or without cream. For the rice preparation see page 303. Preserved ginger may be substituted for the cherries and angelica. PYRAMID OF PEACHES Cook six or eight peaches, cut in halves and pared, in a cup, each, of sugar and water boiled to a syrup; drain and arrange, on small round croutons, about a pyramidal-shaped crouton. Put a blanched peach kernel or almond into the centre of each half peach. Boil the syrup with the juice of half a lemon until thick. Serve hot. For the croutons, either fry plain rounds of bread in butter or dip the bread in a mixture of milk and egg before frying. BLACKBERRY SPONGE Fill an earthen bowl closely with small cubes of bread, pouring over the bread, as it is fitted into place, hot blackberry juice (black- 538 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING berries cooked until soft, with sugar to taste, and passed through a sieve). Use all the juice the bread will absorb. Set the sponge aside in a cool place for some hours, then turn from the bowl. Serve with blackberries, sugar and cream. RASPBERRIES WITH RICE CROQUETTES I cup of rice. i cup of whipped cream. ^ tablespoonful of salt. i cup of candied orange peel, 3 oups of milk. shredded fine. The yoLks of three eggs. Angelica, i cup of butter. Raspberries, etc. i cup of sugar. Blanch the rice, then cook with the salt and candied peel in the milk until tender; add the yolks of the eggs, beaten, the butter, sugar and cream. When cool form into peach shapes, egg-and- bread-crumb, and fry in deep fat; insert angelica for stems. Serve with raspberries dressed with sugar or cold syrup. BANANAS WITH RICE Prepare a border of cooked rice. Use rice croquette mixture, omitting the candied peel; pack the rice in a buttered and sugared border mould, set on a heavy folded paper, in a dish of hot water in the oven about twenty minutes. Unmould on a serving-dish. Decorate the top with candied cherries and rounds cut from an- gelica. Cook a cup of sugar and a teaspoonful of cornstarch, sifted together, ten minutes in a pint of water; add the juice of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of butter. Pour the sauce over six bananas, peeled and cut in slices; let stand a moment, then drain and dispose within the rice. Serve with the sauce reheated and in a dish apart. PEACH AND RICE MERINGUE Prepare a rice croquette mixture. (See page 304.) Maie a border of rice on a serving-dish that will stand the heat of the oven. Surround this with halves of peaches, fresh or canned, with skins removed; inside the border dispose sliced peaches and rice in layers, sprinkling the peaches with sugar and giving the whole a dome shape. Cover with meringue (see page 512), dust with sugar, and set in a slow oven about ten minutes. BAKED BANANAS 539 CHERRIES WITH CRUSTS Cut rings from slices of brioche, or bread, half an inch thick; soak these in egg yolk, beaten and diluted with milk or cream and mixed with sugar and a grating of orange peel. Egg-and-crumb, using macaroon crumbs and, lastly, bread crumbs, and saute in clarified butter; mask with marmalade and sprinkle with chopped almonds. Dress crown-shaped, one overlapping another, with stewed cherries in the centre. Thicken the cherry syrup with corn- starch or arrowroot for a sauce. COMPOTE OF BANANAS Remove the peel and threads from six very ripe bananas; let stand covered with boiling water a few seconds, then drain and coat each with orange syrup; pile in the form of a pyramid; pour the rest of the syrup over them and sprinkle with chopped pistachio nuts or candled cherries. Serve as a dessert or an entree. For the syrup, boil one cup of orange juice and pulp and the juice of half a lemon with one cup of sugar five or six minutes. The syrup shoxild be rather thick. FRIED BANANAS, CHERRY SAUCE Cut bananas lengthwise into halves, roll them in finely pulverized macaroons and then in flour, and fry in deep fat or oil until lightly colored; drain on soft paper, brush over with apricot marmalade, and dredge mth shredded pistachio nuts. Serve with a syrup made of one cup of sugar and one cup of water boiled together five minutes and mixed with half a cup of currant jelly; when the jelly is melted add a tablespoonful of lemon juice and strain over half a cup of preserved cherries. Serve as an entree. BAKED BANANAS Pull down a section of banana skin and loosen the pulp from the rest of the skin; remove all coarse threads and replace the fruit in its original position in the skin; bake half a dozen bananas, so pre- pared, in a hot oven, until the skin is blackened and the pulp is softened. Take the pulp from the skins without injury to shape and dispose on a serving dish in half circles; brush over with half- melted currant jelly, or a hot sauce, and sprinkle with fine-chopped 530 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING pistachio nuts. Serve with a bowl of sauce apart. Lemon, wine or Richelieu sauce is appropriate with this dish. BAKED BANANAS (PORTO RICO) Select rather green bananas; put them entire into hot ashes, or a very hot oven, and bake until the skins burst open. Serve at once, in a folded napkin, with butter. CRANBERRY SAUCE Cook one pint of cranberries with one pmt of boiling water five minutes after boiling begins (closely covered), strain, add a cup of sugar and let boil once. Skim and set aside to cool. CRANBERRY SAUCE, NO. 2 Use one half as much sugar, by measure, as cranberries and one half as much water as sugar. Cover and cook ten minutes — long cooking makes the sauce bitter — then skim and cool. CRANBERRY JELLY Cook one quart of cranberries in a cup of water over a hot fire about five minutes, or until the berries burst. With a wooden pestle press the pulp through a coarse sieve, add a pint of sugar, and stir until the sugar is dissolved, then pour into cups to cool. The sauce will not jelly if boiled after the sugar is added. STEWED FIQS Whole, unpressed figs in a basket or bag are the best; the price varies with the quality. The skin of the better variety of figs is glossy, silky, and very tender. Such figs require but little cook- ing. Wash the figs thoroughly, cover with boiling water, and let cook vmtil the skin is tender, adding boiling water if needed. When about done a little sugar may be added. Let the syrup cook until thickened a little. Serve hot or cold with the breakfast cereal, or cold with plain, whipped, or Devonshire cream, as a dessert. For a more elaborate dessert, make an opening in the side of each fig and insert a teaspoonful of chopped nuts, or nuts and cherries, press in shape and cook without disturbance. COMPOTE OF CHESTNUTS 531 STUFFED DATES WITH WHIPPED CREAM Remove the seeds from choice dates and fill the vacant spaces with slices of English walnut, or pecan nut meats, or halves of blanched almonds, and press into the original shape. Stew until tender in a little hot water, adding, at the last, sugar and lemon juice. Whip a cup of double cream and a cup of milk with a whip chum and remove the froth. Drain and chill the froth and serve the dates in a circle around this. BAKED RHUBARB. (JULIA D. CHANDLER) Rinse quickly, wipe clean, and remove skin or shreds from larger stalks. Have ready an earthen or agate dish with plate to fit the top as a cover. Cut the stalks into this, in short lengths, scatter- ing sugar over in layers, as one would for apple or other fruits, but not to excess. Add one or two tablespoonfuls of water, "to start the steam," cover and set in the oven. In a short time the rhubarb will be tender, the syrup pink colored. A bit of white ginger root or orange peel may be added while baking. Whole figs, dates or raisins, previously boiled in hot water, may be put into the baking dish in layers with imcooked rhubarb and cooked until the rhubarb is tender. A sprinkling of sugar is needed upon the layers of rhubarb. GRAPE JUICE Weigh the grapes, and for each ten pounds use three pounds of sugar. Pick the grapes from the stems, put in an agate or porcelain kettle with about five pints of water to a peck of grapes. Cover and bring slowly to the boiling point, stirring occasionally, and when boiling hot throughout turn into a heavy bag and let drain; when cool press out all the juice remaining, add the sugar, heat to the boiling point, skim, and store in fruit jars as in canning fruit. The sugar may be omitted. Other fruit juices, as straw- berry, raspberry, etc., may be prepared in the same way; these are useful for ices, punch, etc. Canned without sugar, use for jelly making. COMPOTE OF CHESTNUTS 40 large imported chestnuts. J vanilla bean, or Syrup to cover, registering i6o on i the yellow rind of a lemon or the gauge, orange, 532 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Put the blanched chestnuts on the bottom of a large saucepan, cover with the syrup, add the bean or the rind and let simmer twenty minutes or until tender, then drain; strain the syrup and reduce it to 30° on the gauge, then pour it over the chestnuts and dispose in a serving-dish. The chestnuts keep their shape better if used fresh. After blanching, if the chestnuts are old and dry, let soak in lemon juice a few hours before cooking. SALTED ALMONDS Salted almonds are served at luncheon and dinner, and are eaten at any time during these meals as inclination dictates. To blanch, put the nuts over the fire in boiling water, let cook a few moments, drain, and cover with cold water, when the skins can be easily removed. English walnuts need longer cooking, and the layers of skin will have to be removed with a small penknife. When blanched, put the nuts into a pan with a little melted butter and set them in a moderate oven. Stir frequently so they will brown evenly on all sides. Sprinkle with salt while hot. SALTED ALMONDS, NO. 2 Fry the blanched nuts, a few at a time, in a small saucepan of olive oil, to a delicate brown, stirring the almonds meanwhile; remove with a skimmer, drain on soft paper and sprinkle with salt. Pecan or English walnut meats, unblanched, or peanuts, skins removed, are salted and served as almonds. SALTED ALMONDS, NO. 3 (MASSACHUSETTS CONFECTIONER) Blanch two cups of almonds and boil eight minutes in water with a cup of salt. Dry and saut6 quickly in four tablespoonfuls of butter. Almonds, prepared by this recipe, will not become rancid and are not covered with salt crystals. SALTED ALMONDS Cover the almonds with lukewarm water, and heat qmckly to the boiling pomt, drain and cover with cold water, then press each nut, one by one, between the thumb and finger, to slip off the skin; dry the nuts on a cloth. Beat the white of an egg STRAWBERRY SPONGE. (See page 473.) EASTER PUDDING. (See page 475-) PINEAPPLE BAV ARIOSE, POMPADOUR STYLE. ORANGE SECTION'S IN ORANOR JELLY. fSec page 468,) MACEDOIME OF FRUIT AND NUTS. fSce pase 469-) CnSTARD RENVERSEE, BAKED IN SMALL MOULDS. rSee page 464.) S.\LTED ALMONDS 53,3 slightly, then strain it. Dip the tips of the fingers of the right hand into the egg and repeatedly take up and drop a few nuts, until they are well coated with the egg. Continue until all the nuts are coated with egg, then dredge with salt, mix thoroughly and let brown delicately in the oven. Stir the nuts, occasionally, while they are browning. CHAPTER XXIV The Preservation of Fruit "Here is fruit for an epicure meet, Canned and pickled and smothered in sweet; The wealth of summer's mellow prime, To cheer the dearth of winter's rime." — J. M. L. SYNOPSIS «. Time to preserve fruit. r" Preserves," J Marmalades, ( Heavy solution of sugar. ; Butters, *■ ^t^'atior" Exclusion of aU germs. Camiing. ^jeUies. ' Strong adds. Pickling. Recipes. Instinctively, as it were, in time of plenty we are inclined to lay aside something for use in time of need. This is particularly true when one has a bountiful supply of fruit, which, in any form, is a welcome addition to the dietary, and which, unless preserved in some manner, soon becomes worthless. There is said to be one supreme moment when a peach is in perfect condition for eating. It is much the same with all fruit. There is a time when it is at its best; but passing that, it is un-- satisfactory either for "putting up" or for eating raw. The first step, then, in the process of preserving fruit is to secure fruit that is uniform in ripeness and at the height of its flavor. Thus selected, the fruit should be so preserved as to retain this flavor, and, when admissible, its shape. The ease with which this may be done and the wholesomeness of the finished product are also worthy of attention. Long before people had any knowledge of microbes, it was dis- covered that fruit could be readily kept, and almost indefinitely, in a heavy solution of sugar, or in a strong acid, like vinegar. Hence came pickles of various kinds, and the compositions, pound for S34 GENERAL DIRECTIONS 535 pound, of sugar and fruit, called by our grandmothers jam, marma- lade, jelly, and "preserves." Preserves, though a general term, is more particularly applied to sweets made of whole fruit, or large pieces of fruit, kept as whole as possible, while marmalades, jams and butters are made of fruit fine-divided or crushed, and jellies of fruit juices only. Fruit "put up" in these ways owes its preservation to the fact that the ubiquitous microbe, whose primal mission is to reduce everything earthly to its "lowest terms," cannot thrive and multiply in a thick solution of sugar. On this account, though the usual sanitary ways of cooking should always be employed, care in securing absolute freedom from all bacteria is not so imperative as it is when the fruit is put up without sugar, or in a light syrup. In the latter cases the microbes that flourish upon the outside of the fruit, and in water and air, must be destroyed by heat at the boiling point, or by heat at lower temperature applied for a short time on several occasions, else the fruit is liable "to spoil." A dry, sunny day is preferable for preserving fruit, as for all cooking of sugar. UTENSILS Among the utensils that are the most necessary for use in pre- serving fruit are scales, measuring cups, porcelain or agate-ware saucepans, earthen or agate-ware bowls, silver, agate or wooden spoons, a fruit press, an agate colander, small dipper and funnel, jars with new rubbers and perfect covers, glasses for jelly, jam, etc., bottles for catsups and sauces, and jelly bags of felt, loosely woven flannel, or doubled cheesecloth. It is needless to add that each of these, if not absolutely new, should be in an immaculate condition. GENERAL DIRECTiONS Select fruit of uniform ripeness and free from btuises and other blemishes. Put berries, cherries, currants and other small fruits, freed of hulls, a few at a time, in a colander standing in a pan of cold water. The water should just cover the fruit, and should be changed, perhaps, several times. Then turn the fruit on to a cheesecloth to drain. Scald plums, to remove the skins, or, if these are to be retained, wipe outside and prick in several places, to avoid bursting. Peaches, pears and similar fruit should be neatly pared with a silver knife, then rubbed over with the cut side of a lemon, or kept covered in cold water until the moment 536 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING of cooking (to avoid discoloration). These latter fruits are often cut in halves and freed from cores or stones. The stems of pears carefully scraped are often retained. To insiu-e the retention of flavor quick cooking is essential; and but a small quantity should be cooked at a time. GENERAL RULE FOR PRESERVES Take equal weights of prepared fruit and sugar. To each pound of sugar add half a pound (one cup) of water and heat to boiling point. Skim, add the prepared fruit with a few kernels from the stones and cook until the fruit is transparent. Lemon juice is an agreeable addition to either peach or pear preserve. Three fourths pound of sugar to a pound of fruit is often used for peaches, pears and strawberries. Often in case of fruit whose shape is liable to be mjured by long cooking, the fruit is set aside in the boiling syrup three days in succession, the syrup on the second and third mornings being drained from the fruit, reheated, and poured over it. MARMALADE, JAM AND BUTTERS These are made of the pulp and juice of fruit. For the first two, apples and quinces are cooked in water and sifted, small fruits are mashed and, when the seeds are objectionable, also sifted An equal weight of sugar is used, but it is added by degrees, to keep the fruit soft. Frequent stirring is necessary to avoid burning. In making butters the prepared fruit is cooked slowly with a very little water. In the meantime it is stirred with a peculiar shaped, perforated, wooden utensil, the fruit being broken up by passing through the perforations during the stirring. Sugar, either pound for pound or three fourths of a pound to a pound of fruit, and spices are added during the cooking, the larger portion during the latter part of the process, to lessen the liability to bum. Apples and peaches are the fruits most often made into butters; the cooking is a longer process than that for jams, etc. JELLIES The various processes of jelly making do not differ materially. Fruit juice is boiled with sugar to the jellying state. The shorter the time of boiling the more pronounced will be the the fruit flavor. CANNING 537 Juice from currants may be extracted by pressure, without the use of heat, or, as in case of other fruits, the currants may be cooked enough to release the juice without pressure. To extract the juice a little water is added to the fruit and the whole is cooked steadily, but slowly, over the fire until the juice flows freely; or the fruit is cooked, without the addition of water, in a jar standing in a vessel of hot water, until it is soft enough to mash. In any case pass the juice twice through a jelly bag wrimg out of hot water, mthout pressure, then heat to the boiling point, skim and boil five or more minutes, then add an equal weight of granu- lated sugar that has been heated in the oven without browning. Let boil until a little will jeUy slightly on a cold dish. Less than five minutes' boiling will usuaUy suffice, though sometimes fifteen minutes is required; the time depends upon the quantity of water present in the fruit juice. If jelly with less sugar be desired, reduce the juice by boiling some minutes before adding half or three fourths the weight of sugar. Turn the jelly as soon as cooked into glasses, first rinsed in hot water and placed on a folded cloth wrung out of hot water. When cold, cover with melted paraffine, or paper dipped in alcohol, then with a tin cover or a second piece of paper. Store in a dry place. CANNING The several ways of canning fruit are variations only of two original methods — i. e., by cooking the fruit in an open saucepan and transferring to the jars, and by cooking the fruit in the same jars in which it is to be set aside. In either case the fruit is but slightly cooked, and no more sugar is used than would be palatable if the fruit were to be eaten fresh. This quantity is about one cup of sugar and one cup of water to a quart of juicy fruit. The water is increased to two cups for dry fruits like pears and apples. In canning, as the syrup is not of sufiicient strength to prevent the growth of microbes, no pains must be spared to insiu-e complete sterilization. While the fruit is cooking in the syrup in the sauce- pan, let the jars stand, filled with boiling water, on a folded cloth, saturated with boiling water, upon the back of the range. When the fruit is cooked, pour the water from the jars and fill at once to overflow with fruit and syrup. Adjust new rubbers and quickly screw on the lids, which have been standing, meanwhile, in boiling water. A wide-mouthed funnel with spreading top is convenient in filling the jars. 538 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING When the fruit is cooiied in the jars — and this method conserves the flavor more perfectly — fill the jars with the prepared fruit. Set them on a heavy fold of cloth, paper, or on a perforated board, in a saucepan half filled with warm water. Fill to overflow with hot syrup, adjust new rubbers, and screw down the covers lightly. Bring the water in the saucepan to the boiling point and let boil from five to ten minutes. If necessary, add more hot syrup to fill the jars to overflow, or use one jar to fill the others. Screw the covers on tightly, let cool in water, tighten the covers once more, and set aside in a cool, dark closet. Patent canners may be found at kitchen furnishing stores that simplify canning by the latter method. These are of much assistance in canning fruit and are invaluable in canning vegetables. Vegetables, gathered at the proper time, cooked si^ciently and with care, will keep indefi- nitely and without the use of any "preser\-ative." PRESERVED BERRIES For each pound of preserved berries use ten ounces of sugar and one fourth cup of water. Cook the sugar and water to the soft ball stage or to a thick syrup ; let stand a few moments to cool a little, then pour on to the berries in fruit jars. Fill the jars to the top, adjust the rubbers and screw the covers down loosely. Set the jars on perforated boards, folds of paper or cloth in a saucepan, and surround with water at about the same temperature as the jars. Bring slowly to the boOing point and let boil ten minutes. Cool slowly in the water, tighten the covers and set aside in a dry, cool place. This confection is richer than ordinary canned fruit, yet it is not so rich as the traditional preserves. By this formula the shape and color of the berries are well pre- served. GRAPE PRESERVES Weigh the grapes and allow three fourths pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Rinse the bunches of grapes in cold water, drain and squeeze the pulp from the skui of each grape. Heat the pulp gradually and cook until the seeds come out easily. Ten or fifteen minutes will be required. Pass through a sieve just fine enough to keep back the seeds. Cook the skins and the pulp ten minutes, then add the sugar and continue cooking until the liquid thickens slightly. Store in earthen or glass jars. STRAWBERRY PRESERVES 539 PEARS PRESERVED WITH GINGER Pare, quarter and core eight pounds of pears; cut or break one fourth a pound of ginger root into pieces. Grate the yellow rind of two or three lemons. Put the pears, ginger and grated lemon into a saucepan, in layers, with eight pounds of sugar; add a cup of water — two if the pears are dry. Let heat very slowly and cook until the pears look clear; add the juice of six lemons when the fruit is rather more than half cooked. Two hours of cooking will often be needed. QUINCE AND SWEET APPLE PRESERVES Pare the quinces, cut in quarters and remove the cores and woody portion beneath. Cook the cores and skins with water to cover about an hour, then strain off this water and in it cook the quinces and half as many sweet apples, also pared and cored, untU each is tender or can be pierced with a straw. Let the fruit stand in cold water after preparation until time of cooking. Cook only as much fruit at a time as can be covered by the liquid. Re- move with a skimmer when tender. When all the fruit has been cooked, add to the liquid a pound of sugar for each pound of quince and half a pound of sugar for each pound of apple; boil five minutes, skim and add the fruit and let cook slowly untO of the desired color; long cooking gives a dark-tinted preserve. Drain on a platter and when all are cooked and drained, store in Jars, straining the hot syrup over the fruit. Use only the liquid from the cores and skins that drains through the cloth. It is often best to discard the cores as they contain gummy properties detrimental to the jelly. STRAWBERRY PRESERVES OR SUNSHINE STRAWBERRIES (OHIO) Select and hull three pounds of perfect strawberries of large size. Cook three pounds of fine granulated sugar and two cups of boiling water until a light thread is formed. Do not stir the sugar after it melts and begins to boil. Put in the berries and cook fifteen or twenty minutes after they begin to boil. Pour the con- tents on to a large platter and set in the sun to stand two days, or until the syrup is very thick. Store in tumblers, jars or bottk , cover the tops with paraffine, and set aside in a cool, dry closet. S40 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Other fruit may be preserved in the same manner. When cherries are used, stone them before weighing the fruit. In making the syrup, use the juice from the cherries instead of water. If one has a larger quantity of juice than is needed for the preserve, can it for sherbets, sauces, etc. Cover platter with panes of glass. STRAWBERRY PRESERVES, NO. 2 Select and set aside the largest and most perfect berries. Mash the others and boil fifteen minutes without water, then strain through a jelly bag. Allow a pound of sugar to a quart of juice. Make a syrup with a pint of water to each two pounds of sugar and skim thoroughly. When the scum ceases to rise, pour in the juice of the berries and boil (from five to fifteen minutes) to the soft-ball degree. Pour the syrup into glass jars and, lifting the berries with a spoon, put in as many as the syrup will cover without crowding. When cold seal with paraffine. CITRON, MELON OR WATERMELON RIND PRESERVES Remove the green outer rind of the melon and cut the remainder into pieces of small size. Citron may be cut in slices and the slices, after the seeds are removed, stamped out into pleasing shapes. Cover with cold water and add a tablespoonful of salt for each quart of water. Let stand over night in the salted water, then drain and rinse thoroughly. Cook in boiling water until transparent. Drain carefully. For each poimd of rind make a syrup of three fourths pound of sugar and half a cup of water and skim thoroughly; then add the melon and for each pound half an ounce of ginger root and a lemon, cut in slices. Cook about twenty minutes, or until the pieces of melon look rich and full. Skim from the syrup into jars; boil the syrup xmtil rich and thick and pour over the fruit in the jars. VANILLA CHESTNUT PRESERVE With a sharp-pointed knife slit each chestnut shell across one side. Cook a minute in boiling water, drain well and let dry. Add a teaspoonful of butter for each pint of nuts and stir and shake over the fire three or four minutes. Then remove the shell and skin together. Keep the nuts covered with a thick cloth, as they shell better when hot. Soak the shelled nuts in cold water to cover, to BOTTLED CURRANTS S4i which is added a little citric acid, or a larger quantity of lemon juice, seven or eight hours. This is to harden the nuts, that they may not break in pieces while cooking. A quantity of acid about equal to the size of a shelled nut may be used with each pint of shelled nuts. The acid is harmless; but if more is used the taste will be noticeable. The nuts are in the best condition for preserving in syrup or as glace nuts when they are first gathered in the fall. They soon dry and then are likely to fall in pieces while cooking. After soaking the chestnuts in the acid water, drain and cover with plenty of boiling water. Let boil, then cook about two hours with the water barely quivering at one side of the pan. When sufficiently tender, drain and cover with a syrup made of sugar and water, each equal in weight to the weight of the nuts, and a piece of a vanilla bean. Keep hot without boiling two hours. Drain off half the syrup, reduce about one half, pour over the nuts and keep hot one hour. Drain off all syrup, strain and reduce a little, and, when cold, pour over the nuts. If the syrup sugars when cold, add a little hot water, let boil and use. Store in tightly dosed jars as in canning. STRAWBERRY-TOMATO PRESERVE Cook the yellow rind of a lemon and the seeded pulp, cut in slices, and a bit of ginger root in boiling water, until the water is well flavored with lemon and ginger, then strain. For each pound of tomatoes, removed from the husks, take half a pound of sugar and a cup of the flavored water; heat to the boiling point and skim, then add the tomatoes, cook until scalded thoroughly, then skim into jars. Boil the syrup untU thick, adding to it a few slices of lemon, selecting lemons that are not bitter, and with it fill the jars to overflowing. Cover securely. BOTTLED CURRANTS Mix together fine granulated sugar and dry currants, freed from the stems, in the proportion of one pound and a fourth of sugar to one pound of fruit. With a wooden mallet crush the currants until every fruit is broken. Fill preserving jars to overflowing with mixture. Adjust the rubbers and turn the covers down tightly. These being uncooked have the flavor of fresh currants. 543 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING RHUBARB AND FIG PRESERVE 6 pounds of rhubarb, cut in short 3 lemons, juice and grated rind, lengths. I pound of candied orange peel. I pound of figs, cut in pieces. 5 pounds of sugar. Put the fruit and sugar into a preserving kettle, in layers, and let stand over night. Cook slowly about one hour. STRAWBERRY OR BLACKBERRY JAM (ENGLISH RECIPE) Allow three fourths pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Put the fruit over the fire and sprinkle on a little sugar; as the heat draws out the juice, keep adding sugar, and when all is dissolved heat to the boiling point and let boil twenty minutes, stirring carefully not to break the strawberries. If the jam does not " set " at the end of twenty minutes, cook longer. RHUBARB JAM (SCOTLAND) Select the red stalks of rhubarb, as it makes the richest colored preserve. Take off the strings of skin, but keep as much of the red underneath as possible. Cut the stalks into half-inch slices, cover with an equal weight of sugar and let stand over night. For each three or four pounds of fruit add the grated rind and juice of one lemon. Let boil half an hour after it comes to the boiling point, then let simmer very gently another half an hour. An ounce of blanched sweet almonds, sliced thin, may be added. RHUBARB MARMALADE I quart of bright red rhubarb Yellow rind and pulp of six oranges, stalks. I J pounds of sugar. BoU the ingredients together very slowly until well reduced. The rind of the orange may be grated or cut into thin shavings and boiled tender before it is added to the other ingredients. PINEAPPLE MARMALADE Pare and remove the eyes from the pineapples,then grate them. Weigh the pulp and put two thirds of its weight of sugar in the oven to heat. Cook the pineapple in an uncovered saucepan until reduced somewhat, then add the juice of a lemon for each pound AMBER MARMALADE 543 of fruit; add also the hot sugar and boll five or six minutes. Store in glasses covered securely. The yellow rind of the lemon, grated or cut into shavings, is for many a pleasing addition. APPLE, PEACH OR QUINCE MARMALADE Pare and core the apples and cook until tender with just water enough to keep from burning. Sift through a very fine sieve. Return to the fire with a very scant pound of sugar and the juice and grated rind of a lemon for each pound of pulp. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon until all the water is evaporated, or until the marmalade does not " spread out " when taken up on a saucer. Pour into hot glasses. Peach and quince marmalade are made in the same way. ORANGE MARMALADE Take one dozen oranges and four lemons; cut each fruit in quarters and slice the quarters through pulp and rind as thin as possible, discarding all seeds. Weigh the prepared fruit, and to each pound add three pints of cold water. Set aside for twenty-four hours. Let boil gently until the rind is perfectly tender (it will take six or more hours), then set aside until the next day. Weigh the material and to each pound add one pound of sugar. Let cook until it thickens enough to hold up the peel. The mixture will thicken still more on cooling and care must be taken not to cook it too much. Stir occasionally, while cooking, to avoid burn- ing. Store in jars. As the marmalade is made by weight, any number of oranges may be used, allowing one lemon for each three or four oranges. Use all the water designated. When bitter marmalade is desired, soak the orange seeds over night in cold water, let cook an hour or more and add the water drained from the seeds to the other ingre- dients. AMBER MARMALADE Take one, each, grapefruit, orange and lemon, wash and wipe and cut in quarters; then through peel and pulp into thin slices, discarding seeds. Add seven pints of cold water and let stand over night. Cook until the peel is tender. It will take several hours. Set aside over night. Add ten cups (five pounds) of sugar and cook, stirring occasionally, until the syrup thickens slightly on a cold dish. 544 PRACTICAL C00O.NG AND SERVING JELLIES CURRANT JELLY, NO. I Do not gather the currants just after a rain; extract the juice by pressing a few at a time in a cloth, then let drain through a cloth without pressure. Let as many cups of sugar as there are of juice heat in the oven without discoloring (stir often), then, when the juice boils, add the sugar and let boil a few minutes or until a little will jelly on a cold plate. Cook but a small portion of juice at a time. CURRANT JELLY, NO. 2; ALSO QRAPE, BLACKBERRY, PLUM, APPLE, ETC. Cut apples in quarters without removing skins or cores unless defective; cut plums in halves, and pull grapes and currants from the stems. A little water needs be added to apples, crab apples, quinces and other dry fruit. Avoid the use of water with currants, grapes, etc., let cook imtil the pulp is softened, then strain without pressure. Press the bag to get the last of the juice and with this make a second quality of jelly. Jelly made of dry fruits will harden after it is set aside in the glasses, and if cooked to the consistency usually desired in currant and similar jellies will be too firm and solid in a few weeks. Equal quantities by weight of barberries and apples make a delicious jelly. Green gooseberries or green plums give a delicately tinted jelly. CANNED STRAWBERRIES Weigh the berries after hulling and take one fourth the weight of the berries in sugar. Wash a few at a time by letting cold water run through them held in a colander; take one fourth the weight of the berries, selecting the inferior ones, and pass through a potato ricer or crush with a pestle; strain through a firm piece of cheesecloth doubled, pressing out the juice, measure the juice, and to it add half the quantity of water and the sugar; let boil twenty minutes, skimming as needed. Put the rest of the berries in frmt cans, the cans into a saucepan on a perforated board that rests on the bottom of the saucepan, or on to several folds of heavy paper cut to fit into the saucepan; pour in the prepared strawberry syrup to fill the jars; put the rubber bands in place and the covers GREEN SOUR PICKLES 545 on loosely; pour in warm water to fill the saucepan rather more than half full, cover and let heat to the boiling point; let boil half an hour, then fill the jars to overflow if not already full, using the contents of one of the jars for the purpose; turn the covers down tightly and set aside to cool. Turn the covers down a second time after the cans have become cold, then set aside in a cool, dry closet. If any of the jars are to be filled from another jar, let the covers stand in hot water during the process. If the jars are filled to the top, turn the covers down without removing them. With a patent tin or copper "canner" the process is much simplified. For canning fruit and tomatoes, see page 537. For vegetables a canner should be purchased; the length of time required to cook the vegetables varies with the make of the canner. The pressure of steam generated in cooking is a factor in the time required for the process. PICKLES, CATSUPS, ETC. Kckles are not classed as hygienic relishes, but there are pickles and pickles. Cucumber pickles are sometimes colored green with sulphate of copper, which is a deadly poison. They are tinted green, also, by scalding in a brass or copper kettle; but while pickles so colored might not cause illness, no one who pays any re- gard to health would venture to eat them. Cucumbers scalded in a porcelain kettle, lined and covered with cabbage leaves, are also said to assume a green color. Scalding or parboiling renders pickles soft and tender; by limiting this they are left crisp. A piece of alum, the size of a small pecan nut, dissolved in the vinegar that is to be poured over one gallon of cucumbers, will make them more crisp; but alum even in small quantities cannot be called whole some. GREEN SOUR PICKLES Use a cup of salt to a peck of whole cucimibers or green tomatoes, sliced. Put in a stone jar, in layers, with the salt, cover with cold water and let stand over night. In the morning drain off the brine, scald and again pour over the vegetables. Let stand over night, then drain. Scald enough vinegar to cover the pickles, with four green or red peppers, two tablespoonfuls of whole cloves, and a piece of horseradish. Add the pickles and when scalded store in jars. 546 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING SWEET PICKLED PEARS, PEACHES AND MELON RINDS 7 pounds of fruit. i cup of water. S pounds of sugar. f cup of stick cinnamon. I pint of vinegar. i cup of whole cloves. Remove the skins and blossom ends of pears (retain the skins of sickle pears), retaining the stems. Scald peaches, to remove the skins, or pare them. Watermelon rind should not be too thin; cut away all pink pulp and the thin green rind on the outside; remove the thin outside rind of muskmelons. , Keep peaches and pears whole, and cut the rind in small pieces (squares, rounds, diamonds, etc.). Make a syrup of the sugar, vinegar and water; skim and add the spices. Cook pears until tender in the syrup, then place in fruit jars and pour the syrup, reduced by cooking, over them. Scald peaches in the syrup on three consecutive mornings; on the third morning put the peaches in jars, boil the syrup to the consistency of molasses, and pour it over them. Put the spices into the jars with the fruit. Cook muskmelon as pears; watermelon rind needs be cooked in water until tender and then finished as the peaches or pears. INDIAN PICKLE OR PICKLES WITH MUSTARD Use a mixture of small cucumbers, or large ones cut in pieces, green tomatoes, sliced, cauliflower broken into flowerets, nastur- tium seeds, string beans, green grapes and button onions. Sprinkle with salt and cover with water. Use about one pint of salt to six quarts of water. Let stand over night in the brine, then drain off the brine, scald and pour it over the vegetables; let stand in it until cool, then drain again. For every gallon of vinegar needed to cover the pickles take one fourth pound, each, of curry powder and mustard compound (mustard of commerce), half a teaspoonful of cayenne, one fourth pound of salt and one pound of brown sugar. Heat the salt and sugar with the vinegar, mix the curry powder, mustard and cayenne with a little of the hot vinegar, and when smooth and well-diluted add to the rest of the vinegar; pour this scalding hot over the vegetables. The vegetables may be scalded in vinegar, instead of in the brine. This vinegar should, however, be thrown away and a second supply be scalded with the seasoning, for keeping the pickles. If a thicker consistency be desired in the vinegar, a cup of flour may be added with the curry powder and mustard. FRENCH PICKLE 547 GREEN TOMATO SWEET PICKLES Remove a thin slice from the blossom ends and the hard portion around the stems of one peck of tomatoes. Slice the tomatoes, sprinkle with one cup of salt and set aside over night. In the morning drain and boil fifteen minutes in two quarts of boiling water and one quart of vinegar; then drain again. Cook, together, ten minutes, one gallon of cider vinegar, four pounds of sugar (less sugar may be used, if desired), three red-pepper pods cut in strips, one tablespoonful white mustard seed, whole, and one cup of cinnamon bark, ginger root, mace, and whole cloves, mixed in such proportions as are desired. Add the tomato and simmer gently nearly one hour, stirring occasionally. Remove the spices, which, with the exception of the red pepper that isto be left in the pickle, have been tied in a muslin bag, and store in fruit jars. Let the syrup completely cover the slices of tomato. PICKLED CAULIFLOWER Separate the heads of the cauliflower, steamed as usual, into flowerets and put them in glass jars. Fill the jars with the follow- ing pickle: Mix half a pound of dry mustard with half an ounce of tumeric, dilute to a thin paste with vinegar and stir into two quarts of scaldinghot vinegar; stir until the liquid begins to thicken, tJien add a cup of sugar, half a cup of olive oil and one ounce of mustard seed and simmer five minutes. FRENCH PICKLE. (MRS. H. O. HERSHAM) Chop fine half a peck of green tomatoes, one head of cabbage, fifteen white onions and ten large green cucumbers. Put a layer of vegetables into a porcelain dish and sprinkle with salt; continue the layers of vegetables and salt until all are used; let stand over night, then drain, discarding the liquid. Heat three quarts of cider vinegar, three pounds of brown sugar, one fourth cup tumeric, one fourth cup of black pepper seed, one ounce of celery seed, three fourths pound of mustard seed and three red peppers, chopped fine, to the boiling point, and pour over the vegetables. Let stand over night, then drain the liquid from the vegetables, reheat and again pour over the vegetables; repeat this process the third morning, then, when the mixture becomes cold, stir into it one fourth a poimd of ground mustard and one teaspoonful of BICE BAVARIAN CREAM WITH PRUNES. (See page 480.) INDIVIDUAL STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (See page 481.) > ts-X CHARLOTTE RUSSE WITH SALPICON OF FRUIT. (Sec page 482.) APPLE CHUTNEY 549 Remove the skins from the tomatoes and chop the peppers and onions very fine, add to the other ingredients, boil gently, stirring often, one hour. Strain and boil again, if not of sufiicient con- sistency. Set aside in closely corked bottles, or in fruit jars tightly closed. SPICED CURRANTS, QOOSEBERRIES, ETC. Melt four pounds of sugar in a pint of vinegar; add seven pounds of currants, one tablespoonful, each, of ground cinnamon and cloves, one nutmeg, grated, and one teaspoonful of allspice; let boil two hours. GRAPE CATSUP Cover two quarts of ripe wild grapes with vinegar and cook \mtil soft; strain, add one cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of cin- namon, one teaspoonful, each, of cloves and allspice and one fourth a teaspoonful of cayenne. Cook until thick. Store in bottles. If the vinegar be strong, use less vinegar and cook slowly, to avoid burning. TOMATO CATSUP Scald half a bushel of ripe tomatoes and remove the skins; add half a cup of salt, one pound of sugar, one tablespoonful of cayenne pepper, three teaspoonfuls, each, of grovmd mace and celery seed, two tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon, and two quarts of vinegar. Boil slowly until reduced one half, then pass through a sieve, reheat and store in sealed bottles, or in tight-closed cans. A larger quantity of spice is desired by many. APPLE CHUTNEY 12 sour apples. i cup of currant jelly. I mild onion. 2 cups of sugar. 3 peppers, one red. The juice of four lemons. I cup of seeded and chopped i tablespoonful of ground ginger, raisins. i teaspoonful of cayenne. I pint of cider vinegar. i tablespoonful of salt. Chop the apples, onions and peppers very line; add the vinegar and jelly, and let simmer one hour, stirring often; add the other ingredients and cook another hour, stirring constantly. Store as canned fruit. 5SO PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING MUSHROOM CATSUP Pick over, wash and drain one peck of Coprinus comatus; sllc* and put over the fire in a saucepan with one cup of water. Cook until mushrooms are soft, stirring often. Press through a sieve. To the pulp add one pint of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of cayenne, two tablespoonfuls of mustard, one tablespoonful of cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of mace, and half a tablespoonful of cloves. Cook about half an hour longer, then bottle and seal. CORN RELISH Cut the corn from two dozen ears; chop rather fine one head of cabbage, four large onions, four green peppers and one red pepper, first discarding the seeds of the peppers. Add one quart of vinegar and set to boil. Mix together three cups of sugar, three fourths cup of flour, half a cup of salt, one fourth cup of dry mustard and one teaspoonful of tumeric; when well mixed stir in one quart of vinegar and then stir the mixture into the hot vege- tables. Let simmer half an hour; add two teaspoonfuls of celery seed and store as caimed fruit or vegetables. CHAPTER XXV Frozen Desserts "Ice cream was not discovered; it was developed. A direct descendant of the sherbet of the Orient, it traces its pedigree back thousands of years." — The National Baker. "And Isaac brought forth the milk of the goat, cool with the moimtain, and said to Abraham, 'eat and drink for the sun is hot, that thou mayest be cool.' ' ' No FORM of dessert is held in such high esteem as the frozen; it is, at once, the best approved and the most palatable of all desserts. By the presentation of a well-prepared cream of good quality, one may atone for a very meagre dinner, while a mould of well-flavored fruit ice of attractive appearance fitly forms the crowning piece of an elaborate dinner. But the dinner is only one (and probably not the most hygienic) occasion at which an ice may be appropri- ately served. In the summer season ices are acceptable at any time and on all occasions; and they are fittingly served, also, at meals, or functions of ceremony, throughout the year. The frozen dessert has, at least, one advantage over many others: it is eaten in perfection only when prepared and left to ripen for some hours before serving. In England and on the continent of Europe any frozen dessert is called an ice. In this country, there is a tendency to restrict the meaning of the word "ices," applying it simply to the water ices, so called. The word, however, is here used in its broader sense. Perhaps the following outline will give a general idea of the sub- ject: Ices. O SALFICON OF FRUIT IN GRAPE FRUIT BASKET. (See page si8.) WATERMELON IN WEDGE-SHAPED SLICES, (See page 521.) \ /"^fl^^ -rj5 t ■ ^^flPH J 1 SBB^ P 1 ^""**'*P'iiM!! ^H KHIP'fk" * PINEAPPLE AND PEANUT BMTTIE S§9 chocolate is melted. Boil eight minutes; add three (level) table- spoonfuls of butter and boil seven minutes; remove from the fire, add one teaspoonful of vanilla and beat until the mixture is creamy and sugars around the edge of the saucepan. Pour into buttered pans, cool slightly, then mark in squares. VANILLA SUGAR CANDY 2 pounds (4 cups) of granulated 2 tablespoonfuls of butter. sugar. I tablespoonful of glycerine, f cup of wateE 2 tablespoonfuls of vanilla, i cup of vinegar. Boil all, save the vanilla, without stirring (from twenty minutes to half an hour), to the hard-ball degree; pour on a platter, add the vanilla, and when cool pull over a hook, and cut into short pieces. MOLASSES CANDY 2 cups of molasses. i tablespoonful of glycerine. 1 cup of sugar. J teaspoonful of soda. 3 tablespoonfuls of butter. Boil to the hard-ball degree; stir in the soda, and when cooled pull until white as desired; draw out into sticks and cut into inch lengths. MAPLE CREAMS. (SADIE LOCKE, MAINE) 3 cups of maple syrup or i cup of thick sweet cream. I pound of maple sugar, grated. Boil the sugar and cream to the soft degree; beat with a silver fork tmtil it is of the consistency of very thick cream. Pour in buttered tins or tins lined with paraffine paper and when cool cut into squares. A cup of nuts may be added when the mixture begins to thicken. Half a cup of butter may take the place of the cream. PEANUT BRITTLE 3 cups of brown sugar. i cup of water. I cup of New Orleans molasses. i pound of butter. ^ teaspoonful of cream-of- 2 teaspoonfuls of soda, tartar. ^ pint of peanuts. Boil all the ingredients, except the last three, to the hard-ball stage. Add the peanuts and boil to the hard-crack stage; add the 590 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING butter and when this is incorporated remove from the fire and add the soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of water, and stir vigorously. When the mixture begins to rise pour upon a marble or platter and spread thin. When cold break or cut in pieces. Raw peanuts must be used. COCOANUT CREAM CANDY Boil two cups of sugar and half a cup of milk, or, better still, condensed milk diluted with water, four minutes after boiling begins, washing down the sides of the saucepan as needed. Add one fourth teaspoonful of cream-of-tartar and let boil to "blow" stage, between 230° to 236° Fahr. When boiled enough remove from the fire, add two tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, half a pound of grated cocoanut — fresh cocoanut is preferable — and a table- spoonful of vanilla extract, and stir until thickened slightly. Then drop from the end of the spoon on to confectioner's paper. Set a nut or a piece of candied fruit on the top of each candy. FIG AND NUT CONFECTIONS Cut choice pressed figs in halves through the blossom ends; sprinkle the inside of each half with thin slices of English walnuts or pecan nuts; roll up tightly; then roll again in powdered or fine granulated sugar. STUFFED RAISINS Cut open choice raisins on one side and remove the seeds; fill with bits of blanched almonds, English walnuts, or candied cherries; close each raisin thus filled and wrap in another seeded raisin. Roll in fine granulated sugar. NUT AND FRUIT CONFECTIONS Chop very fine one pound, each, of figs and English wahiut meats, and half a pound, each, of dates and candied cherries. Work with the hands until well mixed. Roll out into a thin sheet on a board, well dredged with confectioner's sugar. Shape with a small cutter, then roll in sugar. STUFFED PRUNES Soak large and perfect prunes in cold water several hours; steam until the skins are tender and the stones easily removed. Take CARAMELED NUTS 591 out the stones and fill the open spaces with dates, figs or candied fruit chopped fine with an equal bulk of pecan nuts or English walnuts. Press the prunes into symmetrical shape, then roll in fine granulated sugar. Let stand several days before serving. SPUN SUGAR Boil one pound of sugar, half a cup of boiling water and one fourth a pound of glucose to 285° Fahr., or the crack stage. Follow the directions given for boiling sugar, to make fondant. When cooked set the saucepan into a dish of cold water, to arrest further cooking, then when cooled a little set into a dish of hot water. Have ready wooden supports fastened to the kitchen table — soft wooden spatulas answer well ; let these project about two feet from the table and be about two feet apart. Spread a clean paper beneath them. Dip a sugar spinner into the cooked sugar and pass it round and round the spatulas; the sugar will spin from each point of the spinner in a fine, thread-like cobweb round the spatulas. The threads be- come firm and stiff almost instantly. Repeat the dipping and swinging of the spinner imtil a sufficient mass has been formed; then remove and coil into the shape desired; wreaths and nests are most common forms. If the sugar be too hot or too cold the spinning will be unsatisfactory. When too cold reheat, adding a little water and boiling again toward the last of the process. In crisp, clear, cold weather spun sugar will remain crisp a day or two, but it is better made the day on which it is to be used. CARAMELED NUTS Boil a cup of sugar and one fourth cup of water to the hard- crack, or caramel degree. Do not stir after the sugar is dissolved. Wash down the grains of sugar thrown up in cookmg as in making fondant. When the proper degree is reached add a few drops of lemon juice. Have ready pecan nuts, English walnuts or blanched almonds, heated without browning. Drop the nuts, one at a time, into the cooked sugar; without stirring the sugar, coat the nut and lift out on to an oiled or confectioner's paper. It is necessary to work very quickly. Reheat the sugar when needed. When it becomes too thick add a few drops of water and cook again to the correct degree. 592 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING CRYSTALLIZED NUTS Boil the sugar to the crack stage, dip as above, then roll while hot in coarse granulated sugar. The hard-crack degree, 310° Fahr. , is the last stage before the syrup takes color. MARRONS QLACES Prepare the chestnuts as for compote. Dry the nuts, then take them, one by one, on a skewer, and dip into sugar and water that has been cooked to 310 degrees. Lay the nuts on an oiled paper to cool. Remove the syrup from the fire as soon as the ther- mometer registers the proper number of degrees. If it becomes too cold let stand in hot water. CANDIED ORANGE OR LEMON PEEL Let the peel, removed in halves or quarters, stand over night in salted water. Wash thoroughly. Let boil, changing the water several times, until the peel is tender. If the peel does not taste salty, the water need not be changed. When the peel is tender, remove such parts of the bitter white portion as is desired. Leave the sections whole, or cut into narrow strips or shreds. Make a syrup of a pint of water and a pound of sugar; skim, and put into it a pound of the cooked peel; let simmer until the syrup is nearly absorbed, then boil rapidly and stir imtil well coated with sugar. Let dry in a warming oven, then store in a closed receptacle. The strips may be woven into baskets or nests while hot and pliable. The nests are particularly pretty filled with three candy eggs, as Easter souvenirs. Crystallized mint leaves are a pretty decoration for the nests. CANDIED VIOLETS Remove the stalks from a pound of violets and rinse them in cold water, then spread them on a towel to dry. Cook a pound and a quarter of sugar to the soft-ball stage, remove from the fire and add the voilets; press them down xmder the syrup, retiun to the fire and let boil up once, then transfer, at once, to a cold dish. The next day drain on a sieve. To the syrup add half a cup of sugar and cook again to soft-ball stage; put in the flowers and set aside for twelve hours; drain again, heat to the boiling point and add the violets. Remove from the fire and stir the \dolets lightly, until CANDIED PANSIES, MINT LEAVES, ETC. 591 the sjTup begins to grain, then pour on to sheets of paper; shake and separate the flowers carefully with the hands, and, when dry, pick them from the graniilated sugar. Rose petals and mint leaves may be candied in the same manner. Add a cup of water to the sugar when setting it over the fire to cook. CANDIED PANSIES, MINT LEAVES, ETC. Set an ounce of gum arabic and half a cup of cold water over the fire in a double-boDer and stir while melting. When cold use in brushing over the leaves, petals or blossoms. If flowers are used, the stems must be covered with the solution, as, also both sides of leaves and petals. Let dry on table oilcloth. More gum arabic may be added if the misture be too thin to dry well. Make a syrup of half a cup of water and one cup of sugar. Let boil to 234° Fahr. When cold dip into it the prepared articles and dredge with granulated sugar on both sides. CHAPTER XXVIT Food for the Sick and Convalescent A carefully regulated diet has, in numberless cases, proved one of the best, if not the very best, correctives of disease. — Doctor Shepard. "All that a man hath will he give for his life," Difficult as it is to select a dietary for the well, it is even more difficult to decide upon the proper articles of food for the sick or the convalescent; for the thought of the housekeeper in general is concentrated on feeding the well and not the sick. Diet for the sick should be modified by the nature of the disease; hence it needs be under the personal supervision of a practitioner who believes in the curative power of dietetics. The physician should know how to cook and prepare the food that he orders for his patient; for a properly trained nurse is not always at hand to cook, or super- intend the cooking of a patient's meals, and many a housekeeper or "good, plain cook" is ignorant of the first principles involved in making properly a cup of gruel or broth, or in toasting a slice of bread. It is not our purpose to repeat here directions or recipes that have been given in other parts of this volume, for "what will make a sick man well will also keep him well," but to refer simply to some dishes that may be safely used to supply nutrition under certain circumstances or conditions of health. A patient recover- ing from illness is often in so weak and precarious a condition that the slightest indiscretion in diet may put ofE the day of recovery weeks, even, if it do not prove fatal. When a new dish is allowed by the attending physician, only a small service or portion should be given at first, and the effects should be carefully noted; for nowhere are thought and judgment more needed than in selecting food for the sick, or for young children, and in the feeding of both the same rules are to be ob- served. 594 THE SERVICE 595 REGULARITY IN FEEDING It has come to be well known that medicines are to be given at stated intervals; it is just as essential to present food at stated periods. Regularity in feeding is conducive to welfare of both sick and well. "The stomach is a good servant: let his hours of re- pose be unbroken." THE SERVICE Those who are fastidious in respect to food while well are doubly so when ill, and the china and other accessories should be of the choicest at hand. Scrupulous cleanliness should be observed in the minutest particulars. Food should never be tasted in the presence of an invalid, and he should feel beyond suspicion that the fork or spoon presented him has not been negligently handled. The patient who insisted that she be allowed with her own hand to throw into a common receptacle all broths, gruels, etc., left in the cups simply wished to assure herself against the return of those items after they had been left standing un- covered. The fundamental principles involved in feeding the sick have been tersely expressed by one skilled in the medicinal art as fol- lows: ist. The avoidance of all articles that disagree with the existing condition of the patient. 2nd. The giving of the food best adapted to relieve the digestive organsof unnecessarylabor and at the same time maintain nutrition. 3rd. For certain special diseases there are classes of food that possess distinctly curative value, as fresh fruits and vegetables for scurvy, fats and oils in tuberculosis, and pineapple juice in catarrhal affections of throat and alimentary canal. An example of the first principle, viz. : avoidance of all articles that disagree with existing conditions, is seen in the dietary pre- scribed for diabetic patients. We know that the carbohydrate principle in food is by the process of digestion changed into sugar, that a part of this sugar goes at once into the circulation and a part is stored in the liver for future use as glycogen. In cases of diabetes all the carbohydrates taken as food are eliminated by the kidneys, as grape sugar or glucose, oftentimes in the space of twenty-four hours. This elimination is accompanied by distressmg symptons. Under these conditions the carbohydrates are gradually eliminated from the dietary, and to make up for this deficiency the quantity 596 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING of proteid, principally the quantity of fat, needs be increased. In severe cases sugar is made out of proteid, but it is not formed in such quantity as occurs when starch is contained in the dietary. Bread, being largely starch, is prohibited, as are also vegetables grown imder groxmd. As fat, measured by the amount of heat liberated during its oxidation, has a high nutritive value, a smaller quantity, comparatively, is needed to make up the deficiency than would be the case if the deficiency were made up from proteid. But the problem is to present the fat in a pleasing form. A physician and specialist in diabetes, in lecturing on the food of diabetics, alluded to the following ways in which butter could be presented and which in practice had been found acceptable: Four ounces of butter is often thought to be needed each day, to insure the proper amount of nutriment. Thin slices of cheese, spread generously with butter, were used instead of bread. A piece of butter was put into a cup and hot coffee poured over it; the coffee was sipped while quite hot. Butter was used profusely on all cooked vegetables that were allowed, as spinach, string beans, beet lops, celery, and okra. Bacon is a desirable addition to all sorts of dishes. The number of vegetables without starch in composition being rather limited, it is advisable to present the vegetables in large quantity, one at a meal to avoid the patients tiring of them. Proteid food being highly concentrated vegetables need be used freely to secure waste and successful elimination. Saccharine is put into cranberries at the close of the cooking, to make them less soxur. When cream is allowed, ice cream may be prepared with saccharine in the place of sugar. Eggs are one of the main dependencies of the diabetic, as many as six are required in a day. These may be taken in egg-nogg (sweetened with saccharine), in coffee, or cooked by any recipe in which starch or sugar is not used. The whites of two eggs, beaten and mixed with a glass of cold water and, if allowed, flavored with lemon juice, are good for diabetics and also in most conditions where nourishment in an easily digested form is demanded. "More is to be done for asthmatic patients on the side of the stomach than in any other direction," for errors in diet are liable to to precipitate an attack. A cup of very hot water is of advantage if taken an hour before each meal and again at night. No water should be taken with the meals, or imtil at least t^ee hours after. As the attacks of the disease are usually worse at night, the prin- cipal meal should be eaten at midday, and the supper be made BLUSHING APPLES WITH ORANGE SAUCE. (See page 524.) APPLE CHARLOTTE. (See page 526.) APPLES, DUCHESS STYLE. (See page 523-) i BLACKBERRY SPONGE. (See page 527.) r 1 COMPOTE OF STUFFED PEARS WITH RICE. (See page sn.) x^'ti -t-'^, :^ i» n WK *'''T*---i«^^s'5«ar«sirtWR' PYRAMID OP PEACHES. (See page 527.) TYPHOID PEVEK S97 light. Fats and sweets should be omitted, as also pork, veal, cheese, and rich desserts. If starchy food be eaten, it needs be thoroughly cooked and masticated, to insure complete salivary digestion. Thompson gives the following as a sample for advanced cases: Breakfast: bread and milk, or well-cooked oatmeal por- ridge or wheaten grits, without sugar. Dinner (not later than 2 p. M.) : beef or mutton, bread, one or two green or succulent vegetables, such as spinach, stewed celery, stewed or raw tomatoes. Blanc-mange or custard (not sweetened) or a little rice pudding. Fresh fruit in season, as a peach or baked apple. Sup- per (6 p. M.) : a soft-cooked egg or a little cold fowl or game, stale bread, toast, zweiback, milk, stewed fruit (without sugar). Moderation and pimctuality in eating are first essentials. IN CHRONIC RHEUMATISM "The basis of the diet should be farinaceous food with a few fresh green vegetables. Fish, eggs, and fowl may be eaten; but dark meat is not desirable. Sweets and alcoholic beverages should be omitted from the menu, and all foods should be plainly cooked and eaten in moderation." SECOND PRINCIPLE The giving of food best adapted to relieve the digestive organs of uimecessary labor while maintaining nutrition. The old adage was "feed a cold and starve a fever." In place of the 3,500 calories in the average, normal dietary, a fever patient was reduced to a dietary supplying but 40c calories. It was not until 1882 that it was conclusively proven that fever patients could digest food just as well as o^er patients. Fever oxidizes proteid matter. A patient fed on milk or beef juice rich in the proteid principles save the tissues of his body by so much, though enough food cannot be ingested to replace all the proteid matter oxidized by the fever, hence the emaciation even in patients who are fed the most successfully. TYPHOID FEVER / The seat of typhoid fever is in the small intestine, and all food that is given needs be such as is principally digested in the stomach and leaves but littie waste, thus relieving the intestine. If stomach 5y3 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING digestion in any fever can be carried on fairly weU, the loss of bodily weight is proportionately checked. In an ulcerated con- dition of the intestine liquid is less liable than solid food to cause disturbance. Milk or broths are largely digested in the stomach, and milk especially provides nutriment; these then are the foods indicated in fevers. Clear soups, consomme and thin gruels of rice, oatmeal or barley, from which all solid material has been care- fully removed by straining through a double fold of cheesecloth, may also be used. If these latter be used alone tissue waste will be noticeable in a few days at the most, as they do not contain sufficient protein to make up for the oxidation of proteid from the system; but with these combined with gelatine, white of egg and broths the patient will do well. To illustrate, note that a cup of bouillon supplies but sixteen calories of heat, while an egg furnishes seventy-five calories. THIRD PRINCIPLE FOODS POSSESSING CURATIVE VALUE FOR SPECIAL DISEASES Scurvy is less common than formerly. This is owing, in a measure, to increased facilities of preserving and transporting food, whereby a more varied dietary is secured. It should be remembered, however, that canned and dried foods have lost some of their life-giving properties. ! When young children are afflicted with scur\'y, it is usually found that their dietary has been too closely confined to proprie- tary foods, sterilized irulk, evaporated cream, etc. Olive oil, butter, cream and bacon fat, indicated in tuberculosis, may be given in countless appetizing ways; the main thing to determine is in what forms these may be presented to be most readily assimilated by the individual patient. (Note the ways of giving butter in diabetes.) Butter becomes a liquid at the tem- perature of the body and may be absorbed almost at once on enter- ing the intestine. In cases of malaria and all catarrhal affections of the throat and alimentary canal, fresh pineapple juice acts as a germicide, though the cooked juice loses this power to a large extent, if not entirely. The first requisite in the diet of both the sick and the well is pure water; if disease be present, pure water, taken alone and in sufficient quantity, will do much toward washing it from the CURRANT AND TAMARIND WATER S99 system. Except in special diseases, the proportion of carbohydrate and proteidfood in generalremains the same in sickness as in health, though after a wasting disease tissue-building rather than force- producing food would be indicated. This is the time also for gelatinoids or "proteid savers." Of this group gelatine in various forms is the most available. Diet for the very sick is similar to that of a young infant — i.e., milk or liquid food. To be easily digested, give milk in tea- spoonfuls, thus avoiding large curds. If diluted the curd will be softer and more easily broken up. Dilute with rice or barley water, or with water gruel. RECIPES BARLEY WATER. (USED ALONE OR IN DILUTING MILK) Put three teaspoonfuls of pearl barley over the fire in cold water; let heat to the boiling point and boil five minutes, then drain, rinse in cold water and add one quart of water; let come to the boiling point, then simmer imtil reduced to about three cups of liquid. Or cook one teaspoonful of barley flour, diluted with cold water to pour, in a pint of boiling water twenty minutes. This may be sweetened and flavored when required. RICE WATER (USED ALONE OR IN DILUTING MILK) Blanch two tablespoonfuls of rice; add a quart of water and let simmer very gently an hour; strain and use as directed. FLAXSEED TEA Blanch two tablespoonfuls of flaxseed; add one quart of boiling water and let boil one or two hours; strain and add lemon juice and sugar CURRANT AND TAMARIND WATER Currant jelly, dissolved in hot water, or tamarinds, steeped in hot water an hour and the liquid strained, either with or without the addition Of lemon juice, are often prized as bever- ages in the sick room. Lemon juice may be taken, when the oil from the rind would occasion flatulency or other unpleasant manifestations, y 6oo PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING TOAST WATER OR BREAD COFFEE Put slices of bread, cut one fourth an inch thick, in a slack oven to dry until crisp and a golden brown. Break in pieces, add an equal measure of boiling water and let stand about an hour. Strain through a piece of cheesecloth. Serve hot or cold, with or without sugar and cream. IRISH MOSS LEMONADE Pick over one fourth cup of Irish moss and let stand half an hour or more in cold water to cover; drain the water from the moss, add a pint of fresh water and let cook twenty minutes in a double- boiler, then strain. To half a cup of the liquid add the juice of a lemon and sugar to taste. This drink may also be made of sea-moss farine. Sprinkle half a teaspoonful of farine into a quart of cold water and stir until the liquid thickens, and then, occasion- ally, for half an hour. OATMEAL GRUEL Stir a cup of oatmeal into two quarts of boiling salted water; cook three hours in a double-boiler, then strain through a piece of coarse cheesecloth. To half a cup of gruel add half a cup of thin cream and about one pint of boiling water; sugar may also be added. Prepare other gruels in the same way. WHEAT FLOUR AND CORNMEAL GRUEL Sift together two tablepoonfuls of flour, one tablespoonful of corn- meal and half a teaspoonful of salt; mix to a thirj batter with about one fourth cup of water or milk and stir into a quart of boiling water or scalded milk ; let cook in the water an hour and in the milk (over hot water) three hours. Serve hot, diluting with cream or rich milk. Gruel may also be made of arrowroot, farina, rice flour, barley flour or tapioca "exotique"; beaten yolk or white of egg may be added to any gruel just as it is removed from the fiie. BROILED BEEF JUICE Wipe with a damp cloth and remove all visible fat from a piece of steak, cut nearly an inch thick, from top of the round. Broil over a clear bed of coals three or four minutes, turning each ten secondsr Cut in pieces, about an inch and a half square, and gash BEEF TEA 6oi two or three times on each side. Press out the juice with a meat press or a hot lemon squeezer and turn into a hot cup. Sea- son with salt and serve hot. BEEF ESSENCE Cut beef, prepared as before, into small pieces; set these in a wide-mouthed bottle, securely corked, or in a fruit jar, closely covered,on a heavy fold of paper, or on a trivet in a kettle of water; heat the water gradually to the boiling point and let stand several hoiu-s, then pour ofE the essence. BEEF ESSENCE Chop fine one ounce of fresh beef, freed from fat, and pour over it one cup of soft water; add five or six drops of diluted hydrochloric acid and a few grains of common salt, stir it well, and leave for three hours in a cool place. Pass the liquid through a piece of cheesecloth, pressing the meat slightly and rinsing it with one fourth cup of cold water. Serve cold, a teaspoonful at a time; or heat in a closed vessel over hot water and then serve. BEEF TEA Chop fine half a pound of raw lean beef, cover with one pint of cold water and let stand in an earthen dish in a cool place for some hours. Cook over the fire, stirring constantly, until vapor begins to rise, then remove from the fire. Strain through a cheesecloth, pressing the liquid from the meat. Season with salt. The liquid should not be heated above i6o°, but between that and 140° Fahr. The albimiinous juices do not coagulate and settle to the bottom of the cup, but are held in suspension throughout the liquid, as when cooked at a higher temperature. BEEF TEA Let a pound of fine-chopped beef stand an hour in an earthen vessel, covered with a pint of cold water; set into a dish of water over the fire, or in the oven, keeping the water in the outside dish at simmering temperature, one hour. The meat should not be exposed to a temperature of more than 170° Fahr. 6o2 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING BEEF TEA Cut two and a half pounds of beef from the top of the round into half-inch pieces; put into a white-lined saucepan, cover with pounded ice to the depth of an inch and a half and let stand, covered, about two hours. Put the saucepan over the fire, let heat nearly to the boiling point, then pass through a fine strainer. CHICKEN, VEAL OR MUTTON BROTH For chicken broth, add the crushed bones with the meat. For veal broth, use the fleshy part of the knuckle. Use a pint of water to a pound of meat, cook in a fruit jar or double-boUer about four hours, or let simmer directly over the fire two hours and add water, if needed, to secure a pint of liquid to a pound of meat. The nutritive value may be increased by the addition of pearl barley, rice, vermicelli or tapioca. The barley requires long cooking after being soaked over night. CHICKEN, MUTTON OR VEAL BROTH Chop fine a pound of chicken, mutton or veal free of fat; add a pint of water and let stand on ice two or three hours. Then cook three hours over a slow fire, strain, cool, remove fat, add salt and serve hot or cold. SCOTCH BEEF BROTH To a pint of strained and seasoned beef broth, from which all fat has been removed, add two teaspoonfuls of oatmeal and cook over hot water two hours. Strain and serve hot. The broth should have a delicate, jelly-like consistency. MUTTON BROTH (UNITED STATES ARMY HOSPITAL RECIPE FOR TWELVE MEN) Mutton, six pounds; salt, two ounces; rice, two ounces. Directions: Break the bones without separating the meat. Put it into twelve pints of cold water, with the salt and rice or barley. Simmer gently two hours and a half, carefully removing all the scum and fat. At the expiration of the time, if necessary. PEPTONIZED MILK 603 add water to secure twelve pints of broth and let simmer fifteen minutes longer; add the salt toward the last of the cooking. CLAM AND CHICKEN FRAPPE. (BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL) Wash and scrub two quarts of clams. Put in a saucepan with half a cup of cold water, cover closely and let steam until the shells are well opened. Remove the clams from the shells and strain all the liquor through a cheesecloth. To one cup and two thirds of the liquor add two and one half cups of highly seasoned chicken stock and salt if needed. Cool and freeze to a mush. Serve in cups with whipped cream above. ALMOND MILK SOUP Blanch half a pound of sweet and ten bitter almonds; pound them in a mortar, moistening, from time to time, with milk, using in all one pint; when poimded to a smooth paste press through a piece of fine cheesecloth. Scald three cups of milk with two table- spoonfuls of sugar and half a teaspoonful of salt; stir in the almond milk and continue to stir until heated. Serve with croutons. LEMON, VINEGAR OR WINE WHEY Heat a pint of milk to the boiling point; add the juice of half a lemon freed from seeds; let the milk again come to the boiling point; then,withoutpressure,strain the whey through a cheesecloth. Half a cup of wine (sherry or a white wine), a tablespoonful of vinegar, or one fourth an ounce of cream-of-tartar, may take the place of the lemon juice. Whey has no value as an aliment, but it is useful as a beverage in febrile diseases, because it promotes perspiration and possesses diuretic properties. PEPTONIZED MILK (COLD PROCESS) Into a clean quart bottle or jar put five grains (one fourth teaspoonful) of extractum pancreatin, powdered, one fourth teaspoonful of soda, and half a cup of cold water; shake thoroughly, then add a pint of fresh, cool milk; shake again and put directly upon the ice. This milk may be used in any dish where milk is called for. After using milk from the bottle return the bottle 9it once to the ice, or the peptonizing process will be continued. 604 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING PEPTONIZED MILK, NO. 3 Prepare the milk as before; then place the bottle in water about 115° Fahr. (the hand can be held in waler of this tempera- ture without discomfort). Keep the bottle in the water ten minutes, then put at once on ice. The bottle should come in direct contact with the ice. In some preparations of pancreatin, as Fairchild's, the proper proportions of pancreatin and soda for a pint of milk come mixed together in a tube. The taste of milk, peptonized (i. e.,partialty digested) by the "cold process," is imchanged. MUk so treated is especially suitable for persons who ordinarily find milk indigestible. If the stomach is unable to retain properly and assimilate milk prepared by this process, the milk should be heated and the process of digestion carried on still further, as by the second method. After the milk has been properly peptonized by the second process, it may be scalded, and thus the process of peptonization is checked; in this case it may be kept simply in a cool place, ice being unneces- sary. SAVORY CUSTARD Beat the yolks of two or three eggs; add a few grains of salt, a dash of pepper, if permissible, and a cup of beef tea, or broth of any kind; strain into a buttered cup and poach in a dish of hot water until the custard is set. Serve hot or cold in the cup. EQQ AND QRUEL OR CAUDLE Beat an egg to a froth; have ready a cup of smooth and very hot gruel and stir this into the egg; add from one fourth to one half cup of sherry, a teaspoonful of sugar and grated nutmeg one or all as is desired. CHICKEN CUSTARD Fill a buttered custard cup lightly with stale bread crumbs (centre of loaf) and fine-chopped breast of chicken. Beat a whole egg, or the yolks of two; add a few grains of celery salt and half a cup or more of milk Poach as any custard. Serve hot BEEF TEA CUSTARD Beat the yolks of three eggs slightly; add a few grains of salt and, very gradually, a cup of hot beef tea; cook in a double-boiler, RAW BEEF SANDWICHES 605 stirring constantly until the mixture thickens; then pass through a fine sieve. Serve hot or cold in a custard cup. If permissible the beef tea may be flavored with celery or parsley. SCUFFLED EQQ This dish when properly prepared is a dehcate, dainty morsel. An egg so cooked is often more easily digested than when poached au natur el, inasmuch as the air incorporated into the white separates the cells of albumen and enables the digestive fluids to penetrate the mass without hindrance. (For recipe, see "Poached Egg Hygienic Fashion. ") An egg thus cooked, and served in a tumbler, presents an attractive appearance most desirable in the sick room. The lower part of a small double-boiler, in which a trivet is set, affords a practical means of cooking. In the absence of a trivet one may be improvised by driving a nail repeatedly through the cover of a poimd size baking-powder box. Thus the water may pass beneath the glass. Set the glass in place, while the water is luke- warm, and, when the white begins to expand with the heat and rise, drop in the yolk; both are cooked, at least, as soon as the water boils. The less the egg is cooked the more easily it will be digested. EQG-NOQQ Beat the yolk of an egg; add one or two tablespoonfuls of sugar and, when nuxed with the egg, a tablespoonful of sherry or brandy; mix again, then add, gradually, a cup of milk, and, lastly, fold in the white of the egg beaten stiff. EQQ AND WINE Beat an egg to a froth ; add one or two tablespoonfuls of sugar and beat again. Heat half a cup of cold water and one fourth cup of sherry wine xmtil vapor rises, then pour over the egg and sugar, stirring constantly. Cook over hot water until slightly thickened. Serve in a glass, hot or cold. RAW BEEP SANDWICHES Cut stale bread into slices one fourth an inch thick; put two slices together, remove the crusts and cut into such shape as desired. Keep the pairs together, spread these with butter, then 6o6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING with the pulp of meat, scraped from the fibre and seasoned with salt, and press the pairs together. In scraping the beef, scrape the pulp from one side and then turn and scrape the pulp from the fibres on the other side. BROILED RAW BEEF CAKES Season raw beef pulp, prepared as above, with salt and shape into small flat cakes of uniform thickness throughout. Broil in a well-oiled oyster broiler about four minutes, turning every ten seconds. Season with salt and spread with butter. TENDERLOIN STEAK WITH BEEF JUICE Have a piece of steak cut an inch and a half thick from the middle of the tenderloin lying under the rump. This is tender meat, but lacking in juiciness and flavor. Put into a weU-oiled broiler with nearly half a pound of round steak. Broil in the usual manner about ten minutes; place the tenderloin on a hot plate, dust lightly with salt and, with a hot lemon squeezer or meat press, express the juice from the round steak over it. Garnish with cress or parsley and serve at once. FILLETS OF CHICKEN IN ASPIC JELLY Remove the fillets from the breast of a yoimg and tender chicken (see page 154). After the tendon is removed from the small fillets and all are of the same thickness, wrap the fillets securely in pieces of well-buttered writing paper, and broil over a moderate fire, turning very often, to avoid burning the paper. Cool under a weight and mould in aspic jelly (see page 251). BROILED SQUABS See that the squabs are carefully dressed and singed (split them down the backbone and dress as a chicken for broiling), wipe care- fully and broil in a well-oiled double-broiler; season lightly with salt, also pepper and butter if agreeable. Serve on a slice of toast. Garnish with a slice or two of orange and a stem of watercress. SEA MOSS FARINE BLANCMANGE I tablespoonful of sea moss farine. f^ cup of sugar. I quart of milk. The juice of a lemon. SPONGE RUSKS 607 Stir the farine into the milk and sugar; let heat gradually (over hot water), stirring meanwhile. Wien the mixture thickens slightly, discontinue stirring, except occasionally, and let cook about half an hour. Add the lemon juice or not, as desired. Turn into small moulds. Serve cold with boiled custard, currant Jelly, or cream and sugar. EGG JUNKET, WHIPPED CREAM Separate the whites from the yolks of two eggs, beat the whites until dry and the yolks until thick; gradually add the yolks to the whites, beating constantly. Heat one pint of milk until lukewarm, about 98° Fahr., dissolve in this one fourth cup of sugar, add half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract and pour over the beaten eggs; stir in a teaspoonful of liquid rennet, or half a junket tablet, dis- solved in two teaspoonfuls of cold water, and turn into sherbet glasses. Let stand in a warm place about half an hour or until firm, then chill. Serve with a tablespoonful of whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, on the top of each glass. PLAIN JUNKET WITH WINE Heat a pint of rich milk to 100° Fahr., and stir in half a junket tablet, crushed and dissolved in half a tablespoonful of cold water, one third cup, or less, of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of brandy, or four of sherry or Madeira; turn into glasses and let stand un- disturbed until set. Serve thoroughly chilled. When fat is called for, add half a cup of cream to a pint of milk and proceeed as before. SPONGE RUSKS Bake sponge cake mixture in a pan of such size as to secure a sheet of cake half an inch thick when baked. When the cake is cold, cut into strips three inches wide, and these into short strips about an inch wide. Toast the latter or brown in the oven upon one side, then toast or brown on the other side. Fruit jellies, Bavarian creams, custards, sherbets and cream ices are all useful (under supervision) in the dietary of the sick and convalescent. Directions for the preparation of these dishes, as well as of clear soups, cream soups, toast, etc., which are also desirable, will be found under the headings of the various chapters. In cases of acute disease, or in the early stages of recovery from 6o8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING such diseases, fat is often not easily assimilated, and hence no droplet of fat should be left floating upon a cup of broth. When butter is allowed upon toast, vegetables, or broiled meat, external heat should not be applied, the heat in the article should be suffi- cient to melt the butter. Eggs poached in cream or consomme, with or without toast, are usually relished in the sick room. Ice-cold foods, as cream ice, often prove most acceptable to an invalid suffering from fever or inflammation, when no other form of nourishment can be tolerated. At such times flavoring extracts, or zests of lemon or orange, should not be used; nor should the mixture be made as sweet as in the recipes given under ices. Pure cream, not too heavy, with simply from half to three fourths cup of sugar to the quart, produces a good cream. A plain boiled custard made of the yolks of three eggs and two tablespoonfuls (always level) of sugar to a pint of milk is also good. In either case a cup of whipped cream, beaten into the frozen mixture, adds lightness and richness, when the latter is desirable. This is one of the first articles of food prescribed by physicians to patients who are recovering from severe attacks of cholera morbus. Junket ice cream is particularly wholesome. CALF'S FOOT JELLY I calf's foot. I cup of sugar. li quarts of cold water. 3 whites of eggs with shells. i cup of sherry wine. J cup of cold water. Juice of one lemon. Scald and clean the foot thoroughly. Split and cut it into several pieces; add the cold water and heat slowly to the boiling pomt, skim and let simmer about five hours, strain and let stand until cold. Remove all fat. Crush the shells of the eggs and beat the whites slightly; add the water, lemon juice, about a teaspoonful of salt (to a quart) and the sugar and stir the whole into the jellied liquid. Stir constantly while heating to the boiling point; let boil one minute, then "let stand to settle. Have ready a bowl, a colander in the bowl, holding a napkin wrung out of hot water, and a sieve on the napkin. Turn the hot mixture into the sieve, lift this with the egg shells and let the hot mixture filter through the napkin into the bowl. Strain a second time if necessary. When cool add the wine and strain into cups or moulds. PART III CHAPTER I Marketing, Care of Food and Cooking Utensils There are two ways of marketing in vogue, both of which have ardent advocates. By the one, and this is largely practised by the women of Mexico and France, the housekeeper buys just what is needed for the day, no more, no less, and when night comes her store room is as bare as that of the historic Mother Hubbard on a certain occasion. The other might be called the American way, though it follows it pretty closely the fashion set by our English cousins. A housekeeper, who believes in this way of marketing, buys her' provisions almost at wholesale — that is, sugar and flour by the barrel, butter by the firkin, and canned goods by the dozen. The Mexican woman brings home her food supplies, of all kinds for the day, in a small gourd cup holding less than a quart. The French woman buys the wings and perhaps the second joints of a fowl. The English or American woman, of the same class, would be imwilling to ask for less than a pair of fowl, and very likely would add a ham or a pickled tongue. Without doubt, the former is the more economical method of procedure; still there is a satis- faction in the consciousness that one's larder is supplied for an emergency, which will compensate for the extra outlay, if that outlay be conmensurate with one's income. But the purchase of supplies for a family, if it be wisely done, whether the family be large or small, is no very simple matter. It cannot be prescribed for every class and condition of housewives. But, whether one buy by wholesale or after the French fashion, serve yourself, if you would be well served. Go in person and see what you purchase. SUPPLIES THAT MAY BE BOUGHT IN QUANTITY White flour may be bought by the barrel, if one has a cool, dry place for its storage. The barrel should not rest directly upon the 609 6io PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING floor, but be raised from it by strong supports, so that there may be a circulation of air below as well as upon the sides and top. Entire wheat flour does not keep well and needs be bought a little at a time. Pototoes keep well and are lower in price, before they have been stored. With refrigerator and ice, butter and meats can be well taken care of and, besides, the meat be much improved by the keeping. A loin of beef or a side of mutton is a profitable in- vestment in the average family. Serve the fore quarter of mutton, "boiled" or steamed, first, as meat thus cooked needs be fresher than when it is roasted. The leg may be kept till the last. If one has no facilities for taking care of meat, she can, sometimes, pur- chase the side or loin of the dealer, and he will keep it, cutting and sending as ordered; but one probably will pay extra for such atten- tion. At some markets, when a loin of beef is purchased, the dealer will remove the flank. If this part can be utilized the rule of economy is subserved. The flank may be made into Hamburg steak or cannelon of beef, or it may be kept a few days and then salted, thus being preserved for future use. The fillet spoils very quickly and should be served first. It may be roasted, braised, or cut in slices and broiled. Being deficient in flavor, it is usually larded; if braised the flavor of vegetables is added, and, if broiled, it is quite often served with a mushroom sauce. Cut the rest of the loin into steaks and roasts. Do not roast meat the day it comes from the market, imless you are sure that it has been kept long enough to be tender. Do not waste needful force in trying to digest tough roasts. One better purchase less expensive meat, chop in the meat chopper, fashion into compact roll and then roast en masse. BACON A crisp, translucent curl of bacon gives relish to many a dish; buy only the best; tough bacon, unless the fat cooked from it be used in basting roasts, is a total loss. In many sections of the country, particularly in Canada, sides of tender, mild-cured bacon may be procured. Every slice of the "Deerfoot Farm" bacon, put up in one and two pound boxes, may be depended upon as being tender and of good quality. MILK Though milk does not sour as quickly in winter as during the hot weather, it should receive just as much care. Whene\'er it is VEGETABLES AND FRUIT ALL THE YEAR 6ti possible, keep milk in a separate compartment of the refrigerator; never leave it uncovered. There is nothing gained by paying extra for milk of assured cleanliness, or that has been pasteurized, if it be left standing uncovered. Nor should nulk or any food supply, even if cooked, be left in the hot kitchen an hour or two. And especially no cooked food should be left uncovered. To the strong and robust such food may not occasion sickness, but a delicate child or an invalid will scarcely escape ill results from partaking of the same, and it is no longer palatable to any one. FOOD IN SEASON As a rule, when food is most cheap and plentiful, it is at its best; out of season, it is expensive and lacking in flavor and quality. In the early spring the provident housekeeper will make use, to a great extent, of vegetables and fruits which are seasonable through- out the year, together with such dried and canned articles as she has found most wholesome and palatable, ever bearing in mind how "all things come to him who will but wait." The following table shows when certain vegetables, fish and game are seasonable. FISH IN MARKET ALL THE YEAR Cod, halibut, haddock, flounder, hard clams, hard crabs, sea bass, and lobsters (the latter are best from December to April). VEGETABLES AND FRUIT ALL THE YEAR Artichokes (imported), beets (new in April), cabbage (new in August), carrots (new in May), cauliflower (new in August, in New England and Middle West), mushrooms (cultivated), onions (home grown, July to June, Bermuda, from January 15th to July 15th); peppers (January to June, South), potatoes (South, April; Long Island, July ist; Bermuda, January isth to July), sweet (August to May), lettuce (hotbeds) garden (in June), water-cress, spinach, tomatoes (March ist. South; July to October, garden; November to March, hothouse), turnips (new from June to Sep- tember), bananas, cocoanuts, lemons, oranges (Florida, November to March, best November and February), from Italy and Sicily, shipped largely in December and January. 6i2 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING FISH IN SEASON Lake bass, from June to January; bluefish, May to November; bonito, June to November; mackerel, AprU to October; Spanisk mackerel, April isth to October isth; perch, September to June; pickerel, June to January; pompano, May to August, and November 15th to Jan, ist; red snapper, October to April; salmon, Kennebec, June to October; Oregon, October to June; shad and roe; Charleston, January, Norfolk (Va.), February, New York, April ist, Boston, April 30th; smelts, August isth to April; brook trout, April to September; whitebait. May to April; oysters, September to May; scallops, September to April; shrimps, March 15th to June ist, and September isth to October isth. VEGETABLES IN SEASON Jerusalem artichokes, October ist to May ist; asparagus, hot- house, January to February isth; garden, May to July; string beans, garden, June to October; South and hothouse, all the year; Lima beans, August to October; dried, all the year; Brussels sprouts, November 15th to March isth; corn, July to September; cranberries, October to May; cucumbers, garden, July to October; hothouse, all the year; oyster plant and parsnips, August to June; peas, South, January to July; Long Island, July to Novem- ber; pumpkins, September to February; radishes, May to Novem- ber, hothouse, all the year; rhubarb, February to July, garden, April; celery, August to April; chicory, Jvdy to April; dandelion, hothouse, December to Jime; sununer squash, July to October; winter squash, September to AprD. FRUIT IN SEASON Apples, August to May, all the year, cold storage; apricots, July to August isth; barberries, October to November isth; blackber- ries, July to August isth; cherries. May to July isth; chestnuts, October to March; cturants, July to August isth; figs, new crop October, all the year except midsummer; gooseberries, July; grapes, July to August; grapefruit, October to Jxily; huckleberries, June isth to September; melons, July to October; peaches, July to October; pears, July to March; plums, July to October; quinces, September to December; raspberries, June to September; straw- berries, garden, April to August, hothouse, January to M-vch. ORANGE SHERBET IN ORANGE SKINS. Garnish of whipped cream. (See page 568.) STRAWBERRY 'CHARLOTTE GLACE. (S.-e page 5^5-) MOULDS FOR FROZEN DESSERTS. Bombe, melon and Drick moulds. Individual basket mould and strawberry moulds. Sf/f- RASPBERRIES WITH RICE CROQUETTES. (See page 528.) PEACH AND RICE MERINGUE. (See page 528.) CHERRIES WITH CRUSTS- (See page 529.) COOKING APPLIANCES AND CARE OF SAME 6ii GAME Duck, ofall kinds, September to May; reed birds, September to January; rice birds, September to April; grouse, partridge and woodcock, August isth to February ist; pheasants, October to February; rabbits, November to January; squabs, September to January; squirrel, August to February; wUd turkey, November to May; quail, stall fed, all the year, wUd, November to February; plovers and snipe, September to January. POULTRY, ETC. Beef, all the year, best, November to March; mutton, all the year, best, November to April; veal, all the year, best April and May; lamb, house, December 25th to July, yearling, best, August to November; pork, best, October to March; turkey, and fowl, best, October to March; chickens to broD, August, incubator, all the year; pigeons and squabs, stall fed, all the year; ducklings. May to December; domestic duck and geese, September to May. COOKING APPLIANCES AND CARE OF SAME To prepare three meals a day in a family of five or sis members requires the constant attendance in the kitchen of at least one person, and often several people are occupied there. Even in a small family the kitchen is a much used room. Hence in the kitchen plenty of light and good ventilation are of utmost importance. The health of the family depends both directly and indirectly upon these conditions. That food absorbs odors and germs, not only in storage but also while cooking and cooling after cooking, should not be ignored. Then, first of all, let us have a light, roomy and well-ventilated kitchen. In every kitchen furnished with a coal range there should be some means of quick cooking; this will be foimd economical in point of money and time. Indeed, where the coal range is not needed for heating as well as cooking, a range that affords quicker service is demanded. At the present time, in all large towns and cities, the gas range is available; this in use should be provided with a hood or flue connected with the chimney, to remove products of combustion. Experience suggests many devices in the use of a gas range, and there are appliances by which the quantity of gas consumed may be diminished. 6i4 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING The tile-lined ovens used in foreign lands are washed after the cooking of each article, to insiure against the absorption of flavor by the next dish that is to occupy the oven, a suggestion that is worthy of notice. In planning a kitchen, a place for the refrigera- tor should be selected with care; its drain pipe ought not to be con- nected directly with the sewer. If possible, let the compartment for ice open on a piazza or, at least, out of doors. The refrigerator should be easy of access to the cook, for fine cooking demands many trips between the cooking table and ice receptacle. CARE OF REFRIGERATOR Three things are essential to the proper care and use of a refriger- ator; cleaning the waste pipes, instant removal of anything spilled, and a full supply of ice. If the compartments in which food is kept be wiped out carefully once a week, no crumbs, drips of luquid, or particles of food left to accumulate meanwhile, these will need no other attention. Once a week let the ice supply run low, then remove the ice, wash the floor under the rack upon which the ice rests, take out trap and removable drain pipe and, with a cloth fastened to a rod or wire, clean out these with a strong solution of sal-soda. Pour the same down the remainder of the waste pipe, making sure that the pipe is cleaned as far down as it can be reached. Keep the ice compartment filled with ice. A large body of ice keeps better than a small one, and insures better circulation of air. Keep the doors closed. Set milk in closed bottles or in a compartment by itself. COOKINQ UTENSILS It is a positive pleasure to the workman in any calling to own and use good and appropriate tools. The truly good cook takes scrupulous care of her cooking utensils, and comes to have a real fondness for certain dishes. The supply of utensils should, however, only equal the demand, for all the good things in this world are of value to us only in so far as we can make a valid use of them. The heavy ironware and the more expensive copper utensils, recipients of endless polish, are now improved upon, save, perhaps, in point of durability and for some special uses. There is agate ware, and a light blue ware, white inside (imported), also a light- weight steel ware and aluminoid ware. These afford ample variety {or choice, and, with careful usage, the vessels may be kept in COOKING UTENSILS 615 good condition for years. All may be washed, inside and out, with soapy water, rinsed in boiling water and carefully dried with a towel. If more drying be required, let stand on the shelf of the range. The agate and German wares "chip " badly under strong, dry heat. Fill all cooking dishes with water immediately after use. Sapolio, "kitchen and hand" soap and sal-soda will remove stains that adhere — except in the case of aluminoid ware. Alkalies like baking soda and sal-soda tarnish aluminoid. Also the highly polished exterior of aluminoid utensils scratches easily, and for repolishing these a paste made of sifted whiting and soapy water is more satisfactory. Rub over the surfaces with the paste, let dry, then polish with a clean, soft cloth. Old linty dishcloths and coffee grounds, in conjunction with grease, occasion most of the calls for the plumber as far as the kitchen sink is concerned, and are a source to him of no incon- siderable revenue yearly. A fine sieve should first receive all waste water in its passage through the sink. New cloth should always be taken for dishcloths and, as soon as signs of wear appear, these may be utilized in wiping out greasy dishes, then in kindling the fire. Add dissolved soap or sal-soda (ammonia or caustic soda is better because stronger) to greasy water; these form emulsions (soaps) with the fats which pass through the pipes. Three or four times a week flush the drain with a boiling solution of sal- soda, using half a cup of sal-soda to three quarts of water. Many housekeepers seem to think that, if the tableware be carefully washed, other dishes will do without much attention. This is an extremely erroneous idea. Every dish in which food is to be placed should receive scrupulous attention. Smooth clean dishes are always a chief requisite in good cooking, and in sauce- making they are absolutely a sine qua non. A sauce is used to give richness and flavor to that which is without these desirable elements. If the dish be not sweet and clean, or if it be rough, so that the sauce burns, or "catches on," as we say, at any point, those are the flavors carried by the sauce; for butter absorbs odors and flavors most persistently. Nor will any amount of outside flavor, that may be added, cover up those that have been, as it were, burned into the foundation of the sauce. No particle of matter remains long unchanged. Bacteria are ever at work, and if we do not wish to introduce undesirable elements into bread, cake, etc., dishes with painstaking care must be made ready to re- ceive the ingredients that enter into the composition of these dishes. CHAPTER n Office of Food in the Body "Old men bear want of food best; then those that are adults; youths bear it least, most especially children, and of them the most lively are the least capa- ble of enduring it." — Hippoceates. Foods or food principles (Chapter I, Part I) supply us with means to carry on the work of the body — i. e., the different proc- esses incident to the existence of a living being and the work carried on outside of the body, or "productive work." It is estimated that about one third of the energy contained in the food we assimilate can be utilized m productive work, the other two thirds are needed internally in carrying on the processes of life. The several food principles serve the body in different ways. Take the two great principles, protein and carbohydrate; study their composition and the reason for this is obvious. All food contains carbon; oxygen taken in through the lungs unites with carbon, a chemical change results, heat and energy are produced, and carbon dioxide, a waste product, is formed. Without a supply of oxygen the carbon could not be burned and the life's process would cease. Carbon, slowly oxidized in the body, gives off just as much heat and supplies just as much force as in case it were burned outside the body. Of the carbohydrates, fats and oils (often called hydrocarbons) have greater fuel value than starch. The chemical elements are the same in all, but in starch the proportions are six — or a multiple of six — parts of carbon to hydrogen and oxygen in the proportions found in water, viz., two parts hydrogen to one of oxygen. In fats and oils, the relative proportion of the oxygen is much smaller, and the combustion of these calls for a greater quantity of oxygen from the air and, in consequence, a greater amount of heat and muscular power is evolved. The body also changes the carbohydrates of food into fat. This fat and that stored directly from the fat in food are kept in the body as a re- serve supply of fuel for use in times of need. 6i6 OrnCE OF FOOD IN THE BODY 617 The proteids also contain carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, but they contain as well an element not found in the carbohydrates, nitrogen. Oxygen from the air unites with the nitrogen in the food to form compounds which build and repair bodily tissues. This, then, is the primal office of the proteids, and it cannot be relegated to foods from the group, carbohydrates. The gelatinoids are useful in promoting nutrition and save the waste of the real tissue builders. They do not, however, build tissue. Broth of meat to which nothing is added is not a tissue builder. Of course, if the best fuel be not provided, the system can utilize proteid to produce heat and energy, but it is not the part of wisdom or economy to call upon the more expensive foods, which contain this element, to do the work that may be quite as satisfactorily done by the cheaper carbohydrates; for health itself depends upon securing the right proportions of these principles. Not all of the food taken into the system is made use of and assimilated. A part passes away as waste matter. The kidneys are the organs whose office is to eliminate this waste from nitroge- nous or proteid foods, and if these be overtaxed disorders of serious nature follow. The evil results of a diet deficient in proteid, during the period of growth, are often even more marked. As a rule, the ridi are in poor health because food rich in this principle is ingested too freely, while the children of the middle classes and the poor are warped and stunted mentally and physically for lack of material suitable to proper growth. An adult can get along very well if a meal once in a while does not come up in all respects to the required standard. He has fat stored in tissues which can be called upon in time of need and burned or oxidized in place of food. Not so in the case of a yoimg and growing child. Too often lean and tall, he has little reserve force, and needs the full complement of food at each of his three or four meals per day. When he reaches the age of about twelve or thirteen, the factor of flavor comes in; and too much care cannot be exercised in select- ing palatable dishes. Let us learn to secure flavor in the finished dish, not by adding condiments, spices and the like, but by so cooking our food that the natural flavors are brought out and intensified, not lost. Many fruits and vegetables aboimd in flavors that are enthely lost if they be subjected to careless cookery. The high flavor of expensive boiled and roasted meats are much relished, and when cheaper meats are supplied, vegetables or fruits can be carefully employed to make up for the absence of the appetizing flavor found in caramelized meats. 6i8 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING OFFICE OF FOOD PRINCIPLES OR NUTRIENTS IN THE BODY Protein, as white (albumen) of eggs, curd (casein) of j milk, lean meat, gluten! ^ . , , . J > Forms tissue, of wheat and grams and/ other vegetable proteid \ (formerly called legumen) •'^ Fats, as fat of meat, but-"| ter, olive oil and other t Are stored in body vegetable oils. ' ^^ '^*- Carbohydrates, as sugar, 1 Are transformed All act as fuel, yielding energy in the form of heat and mus- cular power. starch, etc. Mineral matters, as phos- phates of lime, soda, etc. into fat. Share in forming bone, assist in digestion. The most common proteids are white of eggs, lean meat, the casein of milk, the gluten of wheat, and the proteid of vegetables (found in peas, beans, and lentils). The protein of vegetables is less easily and completely digested than that of meat, and though most useful it is not quite so valuable as the more easily assimilated animal food. Chloride of sodium (common salt) and lime, both important elements in the formation of teeth and bone, and in maintenance of the integrity of the system, are largely found in fresh frtiits, vegetables and grains. Often the supply of fresh fruit and vegetables is limited during the winter season, and in the spring the system calls for elements that have been wanting. True common salt has been supplied in the food, and lime may have been given, but these crude substances are not identical with the lime and salt contained in fruit, vegetables and grains. Here these substances have been orgainzed and fitted for appropriation by animal life, while in an unorganized state they tend to disturb digestion. The evidence is strong that common salt, in excess, may cause kidney disorders, leading even to Bright's disease. In making out dietaries the first thing to determine is the part which a food must perform for the individuals in question. Are they building or only repairing tissue? Are they active or sluggish ? Is the temperature in which they live warm or cold? The fore- going summary of this chapter is largely adapted from a schedule by Professor Atwater. CHAPTER III Referring to a WelUBalanced Menu or Dietary "A meal — what is it? Just enough of food to renovate and well refresh the frame, so that, with spirits lightened and with strength renewed, we turn with willingness to work again." In the chapter on Hospitality, reference is made to what may be called, for want of a better term, menus of inheritance, but in these later days frequent mention is made of a "weU-balanced menu," and a word on this subject may not be amiss. The remark is common that the importance of diet to health is just now beginning to receive attention, but this is not strictly true. The old philos- ophers wrote on this subject and understood its import, but the condition of the times did not lead them to treat the matter after the scientific spirit of these later days. Whatever of accurate knowledge we possess of this and kindred subjects is due primarily to the investigations of the Germans. The German Government, by generous expenditure of money, made it possible for some of the brightest minds in the land to devote themselves to the task, and the universities provided a place for carrying out the necessary experiments. Then our own Government took up the matter, and, for the past fifteen years, Professor Atwater and his colleagues have been working along similar lines of effort and in the same scientific spirit. But neither the old philosophers, the scientific Germans, nor our own countrymen have ever been able to formu- late a dietary that can be said to be " constant." For feeding is an individual matter; and while dietaries worked out in the laboratory are helpful in a general way, each housekeeper must of necessity work out these problems independently, since the needs of no two families, of no two individuals, even, in the same family, are exactly alike. Indeed, the proper dietary for one individual is a "variable equation," for each day he is a day older. And, besides, the individual housekeeper has neither the kind of training, the proper appliances, nor the requisite time to enter into investigation. Availing herself, however, of the figures and 619 6aQ PRACTICAL COOEING ANl> SERVING deductions of trained scientists, she may formulate dietaries for her family that shall, in the quantity and relative proportion of the different food principles, approximate very nearly to what may be called the standard or laboratory requirements. The desire to do this, seconded by an attempt, is a long step in the right direction. In studying formulas that have been worked out in the laboratory for different classes and ages of individuals, we need keep in mind two things: (ist) that these dietaries do not take into considera- tion personal idiosyncrasies of digestion, assimilation, and excre- tion; (and) that the food value of the same nutrients varies, and that its conservation depends in large measure upon the skill of the cook. MEASURE OF NUTRITIVE VALUE The nutritive value of any given food stuff is measured by the amoimt of heat liberated during its oxidation into those chemical combinations in which it is to leave the organism. The unit of measure is the calorie, which is equivalent to the amount of heat necessary to raise one kilogram of water one degree centigrade, or what is nearly the same thing,ione pound of water 40° Fahr. _ Taking our common food materials as they are used in ordinary diet, the following general estimate has been made of the energy furnished to the body by one gram, or one poimd, of each of the classes of nutrients. Protein, fuel value, 4 calories per gram, or 1,820 calories per pound. Fats, fuel value, 8.9 calories per gram, or 4,040 calories per pound. Carbohydrates, fuel values, 4 calories per gram, or 1,820 calories per pound. (Atwater.) It vrill be seen that the fuel value, or capacity for yielding heat and mechanical power, of a pound of protein of lean meat, or albumen of egg, is just about equivalent to a pound of starch, or sugar (carbohydrate), and a little over two pounds of either would be_ required to equal a poxmd of the fat of meat or butter. It is evident, then, that the fuel value of food depends upon the amount of actual nutrients, and especially upon the amount of fat, it contains. Atwater estimates "that an average man, at moderately active labor, like a carpenter or mason, should have about 11 5 grams, or 0.25 pound, of available protein and sufficient fuel ingredients, in FRUIT CUP. (See page s«9.) ■ . - fea ~ 1 4^ ,i%**^o ^ HBHI^^ », STRAWBERRY BOMBE GLACE. Moulded in melon mould. (See page 571.J BAKED ALASKA COUPE THAIS MEASU&E OF mjTRITlVE VALtJE fiet addition, to make the fuel value of the whole (day's) diet 3.400 calories; while a man at sedentary employment would be well nourished with 92 grams or 0.20 pound of available protein and enough fats and carbohydrates, in addition, to jrield 2,700 calories of energy. Ib calculating dietaries it is considered that the food of a woman, or a boy from fourteen to sixteen years of age inclusive, should provide 0.8 the fuel value of a man's food at moderate muscu- lar labor; a girl fourteen to sixteen years of age requires 0.7, a child ten or thirteen, 0.6, a child six to nine, 0.5, a chLd two to five, 0.4, respectively, in fuel value of the food of a man at moderate muscular labor. In making dietary studies for a week or more, begin with a certain quantity of food products, the weight of which is known, add to this the weight of all articles purchased during the period, then, when the "study" is completed, deduct the weight of all articles remaining on hand. The difference gives the weight of the articles used. Deduct from each article the weight of refuse left upon the plates, and the amounts actually consumed will be known. Then by the use of the tables showing the composition of the several articles, the fuel value of the protein, fat and car- bohydrate in each article may be determined. A simple example in addition will give the fuel value of each nutrient (food principle) for the week. These figures will demonstrate whether the week's food has been "properly balanced" and show wherein the de- ficiency or excess lies. In actual practice this work may be shortened and simplified, as the tables given at the head of the respective chapters in this book give the fuel value of a pound of each foodstuff, and this quantity multiplied by the number of pounds consumed gives the total fuel value of both protein and carbohydrate. Then, when the quantity of protein has been determined, the solution is simple. To illustrate, menus have been worked out below for a family of six for one day. The manner of determining the amount of protein and fuel value of one or two articles will suffice for all. In the breakfast menu, boiled eggs are given; eight eggs weigh one pound; by consulting the chapter on eggs, it will be foimd that 13-1% of a pound of eggs is protein, that is, the decimal .131 rwreseats the protein in Uie eggs. The fuel value is given as 635 calories. Take mashed potatoes in the dinner menu (see table in chapter on Vegetables), the protein in potatoes is given at 2..s% and the 622 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING fuel value as 440 calories per pound respectively. Thirty-seven thousandths and 660 represent the value of the protein and the fuel value of a pound and a half of potatoes. The protein in butter is too small in quantity to consider, the high percentage of the fat gives a fuel value of 3,605 calories to a pound. An ounce yields one sixteenth of this, or 225 calories. Six ounces of milk is three eighths of a pound, three eighths of 3.3 (protein) and 325 (fuel value) gives .012 and 120 as the quantity of protein and calories of fuel in the milk. By adding the figures in the columns representing the protein and calories of fuel value, the amount consumed by the family and the calories released in energy is determined; dividing by four gives the proportion for one man. SAMPLE MENU FOR FAMILY OF SIX Man at moderate muscular labor, woman, two girls, 12 and 6; two boys, 10 and 8 years of age. This family (see page 621) re- quires the same number of calories of heat and potential energy as four men at moderate muscular labor — i. e. : Man Woman Girl Boy Girl Boy 1.0 + .08 + .06 + .06 + .05 + .05=4. BREAKFAST Fuel Weight Protein Value lbs. oz. Pounds Calories Granges 2 .012 300 Oatmeal: Oatmeal 4 . 042 465 Milk 6 .012 120 Sugar 2 235 Boiled eggs (8) 1 o .131 635 Com cake (no eggs) i . io6 i^sS Butter 4 880 Coffee: Sugar 2 .oor' 235 Milk 6 .012 120 Total .316 4,428 DINNER Broiled beefsteak, lean a . 342 1,570 Mashed Potatoes: Potatoes I 8 .037 660 SAMPLE MENU FOR FAMILY OF SIX 623 Fuel Value Calories Weight Protein lbs. oc. Pounds Butter : I Milk 3 .006 Spinach t 4 .027 Butter I Bread 12 .071 Butter 4 Baked Apple, Tapioca Pudding: Apples I .004 Tapioca 4 ,001 Sugar 4 Cream 4 . 006 Total . 494 SUPPER Creamed Codfish: Salt codfish 8 .128 Milk I .033 Butter I Flour I .007 One egg 2 .016 Baked Potatoes: 1 ,025 Butter 4 Biscuit I .084 Tea: Milk and sugar .012 Total .305 4,099 Protein Total for one day i .055 Total for one man .278 Standard estimate, Atwater .25 22s 60 138 225 QIO 900 2SS 412 470 228 6,053 24S 22s 103 78 440 900 i,430 353 Calories 14,588 3.647 3,400 Both the amount of protein and the number of calories of energy- are in excess of the standard. This gives an opportunity to study the menu more critically, though the excess in this menu in con- nection with other menus day after day would probably be over- balanced before many days. For it is to be considered that, in periods of a week or ten days, the diet is more likely to approach 634 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING the standard than when a single day is taken into account. By omitting the cream with the pudding at dinner, the total for pne man becomes . 2 6 of protein and 3 , 590 calories. Reduce the number of eggs in the breakfast menu to four and use these with cooked rice in an omelet, and the figures (coimting the butter used in cooking and the rice) become .25 of protein and 3,623 calories. CHAPTER IV The Physiology of Digestion "Preserve and treat food as you would your body, remembering that in time !ood will be your body." Food ingested to supply the solid waste of the body is taken from the extennal world; and this food needs contain all the elements of the body, the principal of which are carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, iron, etc. These, except oxygen, cannot be taken into the body as elements, but need be presented in conbination, as albumen, starch, sugar. These are called the food principles. Plants live upon elements (that is, plants cannot take care of complex substances), and, in the process of assimilation and growth, they unite or fashion the elements into food principles. Mankind takes these more com- plex structures and, by the processes of cooking and digestion, changes them into soluble and diffusible matter, which may be assimilated and made a part of human flesh and blood. In making out bills of fare, it is quite necessary to consider, not only the office which each food principle performs in the body, but also various points relative to the subject of digestion. The digestive process is both mechanical and chemical; and for present purpose it has to do with mastication, insalivation, gastric and intestinal digestion. MASTICATION AND INSALIVATION On being taken into the mouth, solid food comes under the mechanical action of the teeth, by which it is cut, crushed, and groimd, or finely divided, at the same time it is becoming mixed with the mucus and saliva from the glands of the mouth. The action of the teeth and mucus is purely mechanical, but that of the saliva is chemical. The ptyalin of the saliva is a ferment, and in an alkaline media it changes starch into dextrin and maltose (malt sugar). The importance of thorough mastication and in- salivation becomes obvious, when we consider that the digestion i2S 626 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING of starch is not continued — except possibly for a few moments after the food first enters the stomach and before it is permeated by the acid of the gastric juice — until it meets the pancreatic juice in the small intestine. The latter is secreted by the pancreas, sometimes called the abdominal salivary gland. This juice is poured into the process most freely two or three hours after a meal, or at about the time that stomach digestion ceases. For, though starch is not digested in the stomach, it remains there and passes on at the same time with other food to the small intestine. PANCREATIC JUICE AND INTESTINAL DIGESTION Pancreatic juice contains several ferments: (i) Amylopsin, re- sembling the ptyalin of the saliva, which finishes the digestion of starch that had been begun in the mouth by the ptyalin; (2) trypsin, a ferment like pepsin, capable of converting proteids into peptones; (3) a milk curdling ferment, like rennet; (4) steapsin, capable of decomposing fats into fatty acids and glycerine; possibly, also, a fifth ferment that emulsifies the fats, dividing them into smaller and smaller droplets, until they can be taken up by the cells lining the intestines and so pass into the blood. The blood deposits them between the bundles of muscle ready for use when needed. STARCH AND ACID OR TEA NOT A PROPER FOOD COMBINATION Neither ptyalin nor amylopsin can act in an acid media. This indicates that starch and acids do not form a suitable food com- bination. Tea, probably, by its astringent property, arrests the activity of both the salivary glands and the pancreas. As the secretions from these organs are the only agencies in the system by which starch is digested, tea and starchy food evidently do not form a hygienic combination. It follows, then, that the proper time for tea drinking is not until the food has left the stomach then it may be taken as a stimulant. Neither ptyalin nor amylopsin is developed in children until the teeth begin to appear: hence it were wise to give no starchy food to children until after the first year, except that which has been converted into dextrin or maltose outside the body. The starch in a piece of bread, properly toasted, and in the crust of a loaf, properly baked, are easily digested, because the starch TO SECURE PROPER STOMACH DIGESTION 627 has been changed to dextrin and, being dry and hard, they cannot be swallowed until masticated for some time, thus insuring the digestive action of the pytalin and the change into maltose. By the law of opposites this explains why fresh bread, which of itself is no more indigestible than stale bread, is considered unwholesome and indigestible. If mastication be but continued long enough, fresh and stale bread are equally digestible. STOMACH, OR QASTRIC, DIGESTION The stomach is lined with mucous membrane, filled with count- less glands and ducts. These microspic organs both secrete and absorb fluids. The gastric glands secrete the gastric juice. Like the salivary glands, these are excited to activity by the pres- ence of food, in this case, in the stomach. The gastric Juice contains the ferments, pepsin and rennin, and free hydrochloric acid. The rennin curcUes milk and the pepsin acts upon proteid matters and, in conjunction with hydrochloric acid, dissolves and converts them into albumose and finally into peptone. Peptone, compared with albumen in its first estate, is very diffusible and passes at once into the blood vessels of the stomach. RESULTS OF QASTRIC DIGESTION The results of gastric digestion may be summed up as follows: Proteids are changed into albumose, then into peptone. Fats are liberated by solution of the cell walls. Starch is not affected. Sugar is partly changed into dextrose and partly into lactic acid. During the process all soluble matter — i. e., water, soluble salts, and peptones — are being absorbed by the walls of the stomach, and the rest of the proteids, together with the fats and starches and the greater bulk of the sugars, pass into the upper bowel, or small intestine. CONDITIONS NECESSARY TO SECURE PROPER STOMACH DIGESTION I. The careful subdivision and insalivation of the food by mastication. This condition is necessary for proteid food, in order that the stomach may not be called upon for too vigorous action in changmg proteid into a semi-fluid mass, and for starch, to insure the change 628 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING into dextrin and sweet substances that may be affected by the gastric jiiices. 2. The proper temperature of the food, which should be about 1 00° Fahrenheit. 3. The ingestion of a sufficient quantity of liquid, and no more, when added to the digestive fluids, to insure the conversion of the food into a semi-fluid mass, or, in other words, the avoidance of "washing down" the food with either hot or cold liquids. 4. Freedom from violent exercise half an hour before and after meals. 5. No eating between meals and no irregularity in the meal- time. On account of its muscular structure, the stomach, in accordance with the laws of the muscular system, requires periodic rest. 6. The flow of the digestive fluids is largely dependent upon cheerful atmosphere and conversation at meal-times. INTESTINAL DIGESTION, CONTINUED Besides the pancreatic juice, before referred to, bile from the liver and the intestinal juice itself are active in carrying on the digestive process in the small intestine: absorption takes place chiefly here. This is made possible by the finger-like projections, called villi, into which the inner surface of the intestine is thrown. These projections dip into the fluid mass of food, absorbing digestible materials, peptones, fats, etc., which are carried, thus, into the blood and lymphatic vessels. EFFECTS OF UNSUITABLE FOOD When the mucous surface of the membrane is irritated by im- proper food, the glands become over-excited and pour out a large quantity of fluid, and diarrhora may result. If the irritation be continued, the glands become exhausted and unable to act, and dryness, causing constipation, results. In the absence of all irritating food, less juice is secreted and constipation follows. In selecting a dietary, enough waste or indigestible matter needs be provided, to insure a moderate flow of intestinal juice, other- wise the bowels will not be kept open. One who understands the process of digestion thoroughly is often able, when occasion require, to regulate his diet to nicety. For instance, in cases of hyper-addity of the stomach, if this be ICE CREA,M IM MLbKMbLU^, (See page SS7.) PEACH UUUSSE. (See page 576.) SYRUP GAUGE IN TEST TUBE. (See pa?e 583.) SUGAR SPINNER (See page S9i-) STRAWBERRY SOUFFLE FRAPPE. (See page S77-) B'ii.iia)1ii^«iiiliilVie same manner, except that, at luncheon, the polished table may be beure, save for a luncheon cloth or a centreiplece and dodlies. For a luncheon the napkins are usually quite small and fringed. The doilies are nmde in three sets, twelve, eight and four inches, respwctively, in diameter, for service plate, bread and butter plate, and water glass. As the doily for the service plate provides space for but a single knife and fork, other small pieces of silver are put in place as needed. For a simple luncheon, with near friends as guests, fringed napkins of small size, perfectly laundered, spread for the service plate, give a happy change froim the ordinary tablecloth. 6so PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING At luncheon the bouillon cup supplants the soup plate and the bouillon spoon the table or soup spoon. At a very formal dinner in an Eastern city last winter, consomme was served as a first course in bouillon cups, and bouillon spoons were beside the plate, but the hostess drank her soup from the cup,_ every one soon following suit. Gentlemen seemed to like the innovation, the soup not being garnished, but the procedure, though quite the proper thing at a supper served "en buffet," seems not quite in harmony with the appointments of an elegant dinner. Roasts are reserved for dinner, and chops, chicken jointed or in individual pieces, small fillets of beef tenderloin, etc., with a vegetable, do duty as the piece de resistance of the meal. Before the birds and salad, a cup of chocolate with whipped cream, or a sherbet or frozen punch is often served, though the chocolate seems a little incongruous at this point in a luncheon. Birds are often supplanted by a salad in aspic. THE HOME DINNER "It seems dinners are but innovations, whilst breakfasts and suppers are men's most ancient and natural meals." "Laughter isoneof the greatest helps to digestion with whichi am acquainted, and the custom prevalent among our forefathers of exciting it at table by jesters and buffoons was foimded upon true medical principles." — Hdteland. "Food well chatted is half digested." THE HOUR OF THE HOME DINNER Fuller, in speaking of the ravens that brought Elijah bread and flesh in the morning and evening, draws the conclusion given at. the head of this topic. In the main, this idea that dinner, or a midday meal, is an innovation accords with all history. Historians agree that the fact of the preparation of but a single meal in a day is one of the chief marks of distinction between savage and ci^ized races. The single meal of the savage is prepared toward the dose of the day, after food has been secured from the streams, or as trophies of flie chase. The world's events move in circles, and the innovation of a midday meal is surely disappearing in favor of the ancient custom of dinner after the work of the day has been accomplished. In this custom there are advantages and disadvantages. If the itxsaXy consist of growing children, a substantial midday meal THE HOUR OF THE HOME DINNER 651 becomes quite necessary for them. Tliroughout the whole period of school life the growth of the body is going on, the in- dividual organs are increasing in size, and the entire framework is being constantly enlarged and strengthened. To meet this growth, there must be an abundant allowance of food — and food of the proper kind — to furnish new tissues (proteid) and to supply force and activity (carbohydrates). Then, too, monotony in diet, which is really less common from economic reasons than from carelessness or failure to understand the importance of the subject, must be avoided. During the period of youth the foundations of future health or disease are laid; and, while more pains needs be taken in the case of children of feeble constitution by inheritance, a matter of such vital importance to all children needs be under the direct and con- stant supervision of a thoughtful mother. Adults digest and assimilate slowly, and, as only light mental or physical work should be undertaken after the ingestion of hearty food, a midday meal for them is not to be considered. In actual practice, the preparation of two dinners in one day is not the troublesome matter that it appears at first sight, for the number of meals is not increased and in families where two or three maids are kept and the heaviest work of the day has been completed, their dinner may be prepared with that of the children. If there be but one or two children, it is a simple matter to broil chops or a bit of steak or fish, which with a baked potato may furnish the piice de resistance of many a dinner, leaving soup for the meal at night. At night there can be no excuse for an indifferently prepared meal; everything can be made ready in the early part of the day and the final cooking and serving be completed without the rush and hurry incident when other work is going on. At least two dishes, as the soup and the dessert, should be suitable for children of school age, who should appear at dinner and be encouraged to add their mite to the pleasure of the occasion. If we cannot have music and dancing, "jesters and buffoons," to beguile us while we eat, let the brightness of the day that has come to us, the lively sayings that we hear, cheer the hours of the mealtime, and, lest we miss some good thing that will bear repeating, let us cultivate the habit of looking for brightness everywhere. The dinner being the formal meal of the day, plan to keep in reserve something to make both the menu and table attractive; holly and evergreen at Christmas, a pot of crocuses, primroses, tulips or jonquils in the late winter, a potted fern in a jardiniere, a root 6%2 PRACTlOVL COOKJNC AND SEliVING of partridge vine with berries and a few green things from the woods growing in moist earth vinder glass in the late autumn, are attain- able by many. In late spring and summer the children will find, in their daily rambles, enough delicate wild flowers or foliage to insure a pleasing and varied centrepiece. The influence of these little things is often more far-reaching than we imagine. Who could serve "soggy" potatoes or a burned and smoky steak, or what child would far overstep the limits of decorum without com- punctions of remorse, or, at least, a sense of incongruity, at a table adorned with a pot of crocuses, tulips, or jonquils. SERVING THE HOME DINNER THE MENU The regular home dinner should consist of soup, a substantial dish, as meat, poultry or fish, one or two vegetables, a salad, a sweet and coffee. A carefully prepared entr6e after the ^ce de resistance adds to the variety and style of the meal. If this be fashioned of some "left over," which even careful management cannot entirely eliminate, it tends to diminish the quantity of the main dish of the meal — and usually the most expensive article in the menu. The style of serving the home dinner must of necessity depend largely upon the style of living. When the mother is assisted by only one maid, steps need be considered, and serving from the side is evidently quite out of the question, even if the maid be able to carve. The soup in soup plate may be brought in on the service plate just before the family are seated. This obviates the use of a second service or change plate, a necessity when any one save an expert passes soup in the dining room. While the soup is being eaten, the maid dishes the roast and vegetables and brings in the roast, the table having been laid with a carving cloth and cutleiy. She retires with two soup plates and brings in from the warming oven the required number of dinner plates, which she sets down directly in front or at the left of the server, then she removes to a side table the rest of the soup plates, two at a time. Plates in a pUe are considered a breach of perfect table service, and is a concession to existing circumstances. When the maid waits upon the table five days in the week, a routine suitable to that particular family can be easily mastered CHICKEN SOUP WITH BREAD STICKS. (See page i8o.; JUNKET WITH APPLE, CHERRIES, ETC. (See page S24-) SOUFFLED EGG. (See Poached Esg, Hysienic Fashion, naee 63.) FONDANT MAKING. (See page 583.) .1^ BONBONS, FONDANT, CHOCOLATE CHESTNUTS AND MAPLE CREAMS. SERVING THE HOME DINNER 653 by both family and maid, to the end that each shall know what o is to be expected. While the meat is being carved and passed to the older members of the family, the maid brings in two vegetables on a tray, a table- spoon in each, and passes the tray to the left of each individual. She now sets the tray on the side table and, when the meat for the children is cut, places the vegetables allowed them on the plates, cuts the meat in small bits and sets them before the children. Where the maid cannot carry or hold the plate safely on the flat of the hand, with a folded napkin between, it should be carried on a tray. This course finished, the plates are removed, two at a time, to a side table, where, when opportunity offers, the silver is noiselessly collected on a tray and the plates are piled to be taken to the kitchen. The salad, kept until this time in a cool place, is now placed before the mistress, the plates as before, the salad spoon on the right, the fork on the left; the filled plates are set down before those at table from the right, and later on removed, one at a time, from the right to the side table. Remove the salad dish, salt, etc., on a tray, brush the crumbs, and set the dessert before the mistress (this, if not an ice, or a dish served hot or chilled, may have been standing on the sideboard), put the plates in place, as also a spoon for serving. Set the prepared plates down from the right, pass sauce or sugar and cream on a tray to the left. Then bring in the coffee, made after the serving of the salad, on a tray with cups and saucers. Set the coffee service before the mistress from the right, and pass the cups of coffee, then the sugar and cream on a small tray, if these are served, or if the mother does not add them. If finger-bowls be used, set these in place, from the right, one third filled with tepid water and standing on a plate with a doily between; pass bonbons, fill the glasses, and retire. On occasion, the dessert plates might be removed before pacing coffee and finger-bowls, but generally, with dishes to wash and her own dinner to get ready, this will not be required. Finger-bowls with children at table are a necessity rather than a luxury. With more maids, the nearer the approach may be to the service of the formal dinner. As the Thursday night dinner and the Sunday night tea are often prepared and served without the assistance of a maid, everything should be in readiness beforehand and a menu selected that will admit of as many dishes as possible being placed either on the table, or on a side table, before the family is called. Then, ^54 practicyu. cooking and serving ii one of the family quietly removes the meat course with its attendant dishes, brushes the crumbs, and, after the salad has been considered, attends to the passing of the dessert, brings in boiling water and sets the coffee, tea or cocoa service in place, the meal may be daintily served to the satisfaction of all. The making of the beverage, or cooking of an article upon the chafing dish, will give variety and add a charm to the meal that will amply compensate for loss in some other features of the service. TEAS I can hit on no novelty — none, on my life, Unless peradventure you'd tea with your wife. — Ingoldsbv Legends. "Let steaming kettle sing, Then pretty caddy bring, And teapot from Japan." In America a cup of tea is not the universal and everyday occurrence that it is in England and her dependencies. Originally, perhaps, climate had something to do with the introduction of this custom abroad. Then, too, the lateness of the foreign dinner hour made the habit almost a necessity. But now we, who are inclined to copy what we like, wherever it may be found, have taken this pleasing and informal form of hospitality for our own, and the five o'clock tea table has become a familiar object in our homes. Moreover, in addition to the dehghtful custom of offering a cup of tea to the chance caller of the late afternoon, we have instituted all sorts of "teas." There are private and public teas, church and club teas, to introduce a debutante or welcome a guest of distinction. Then there are teas that take the form of an "at home" given on some particular and uniform day of each week of the month or season. For all these, except the informal five o'clock function, which can hardly be classed a "function," invitations in some form are extended. When the tea takes the form of an "at home," a plain visiting card, with the receiving day engraved at the lower left hand corner, is sent to friends and acquaintances and also to strangers whose acquaintance is desired. When possible, besides the card of invitation, a verbal invitation is also given in the case of strangers, and takes the place sometimes of the card. Tho TEAS 6S5 cards show that the teas are for Tuesdays during the season, the month of January, and for one Tuesday in January, respectively. The address may be added at discretion. Mrs. James B Mrs. James B Tuesdays. Tuesdays in January. Mrs. James B Tuesday, January Fifth. For the five o'clock tea as an everyday occurrence, or as given on some special day each week of the season, no formal display is made. It is simply a social hour snatched from a busy day, but the service needs be dainty and immaculate. The sandwiches are ethereal affairs, and the tea a choice brand. Polished silver and eggshell china are needful accessories. The butler, maid, or a member of the family, according to circumstances, separates the nest of tea tables, and places all but the outer one about the reception room, where they will best accommodate the guests. Up- on these a plate of sandwiches or wafers may be placed, or they, furnish a convenient receptacle for a cup or plate. The largest table is placed before the hostess. Upon this a tray holding the tea service is set. Hot water is brought on in the teakettle, which over the spirit lamp soon reaches the boiling point, and tea is made. The tea ball, or the newer teaspoon, on the same principle as the ball, is a convenience, where a single cup of tea is to be poured at a time; but, when several cups are to be served at once, the teapot, with its heat-confining cosy, is called into requisition. Sweets are occasionally served; but "good form," as well as hygienic considerations connected with the nearness of the dinner hour, restrict the refection to dry biscuit or wafer-like sandwiches. In absence of more than one assistant, guests wait on themselves and each other, the maid attending to the supply of hot water and removing the cups. When cards are sent out to one's entire Ust of acquaintances for some special day, as Tuesday, January 5, the tea loses its home character and becomes a reception. Potted plants and cut flowers are in profusion, when means admit; daylight is excluded, and a table in the dining room is made attractive with flowers, lights (preferably candles), beautiful china, silver and glass. An «rchestra of stringed instruments, screened from view and rendering selections that are but little more than audible, stimulate conversa- tion, and give the finishing touch to a bright and charming form 6s6 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING of entertainment. The menu for such an occasion includes tea, cocoa, bouillon, sandwiches, salads, ices, cakes, and bonbons. The guests enter the room without invitation. Waiters are in attendance, who serve or assist in serving the various kinds of dainties. When cards are sent out for a series of teas, as for "Tuesdays in January," the affair is rather more formal than the "five o'clock," but much less formal than the reception. Music is dispensed with, unless it be vocal, or a few selections on the piano, toward the dose of the entertainment. The refreshments are served in the dining room from a prettily decorated table. The tea service and the service for cocoa, presided over by friends of the hostess, occupy two sides of the table respectively. Guests enter the room without invitation, and are served with tea or cocoa, helping themselves to sandwiches, cakes, and bonbons, with which the table is kept supplied. A maid takes the soiled cups, and sometimes a second maid brings in glasses of frapp6 or sherbet. Church, club and other teas are copies or modifications of one of these three general styles of "tea." CHAPTER VII Menus for Occasions THANKSQIVINQ DINNER We yield Thee unfeigned thanks and praise, as for all Thy merdes, so espec- ially for the returns of seed-time and harvest, and for crowning the year with Thy goodness in the increase of the ground, and the gathering in of the fruits thereof. — Book of Common Peayee. MENU ConsonunS a la Royal, Celery. Roast Turkey. Garnish: Sausage Cakes and Italian Chestnuts. Escalloped Oysters. Mashed Potatoes, Sweet Potato and Almond Croquettes, Sweet Piclded Peaches, Gooseberry Jelly. Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce. Cranberry Frapp^. Chicken Salad, French Style. Ginger Ice Cream. Hot Apple Pie. Neufchatel Cheese, Crackers. Black Coffee. THANKSQIVINQ DINNER. (COLONIAL STYLE) "Some hae meat and canna eat. And some hae nane who want it. But we hae meat and we can eat And sae the Lord be thankit." MENU Clam Chowder, Pickles. Wild Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts. Roast Spare Rib (Pork). Pumpkin Sauce. Succotash. Mashed Turnips. Onions. 6s 7 658 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Mashed Potatoes. Cold Slaw. Boston Brown Bread. Rye Bread. Pumpkin Pie, Apple Pie, Cheese. Thanksgiving Pudding Fruit. Cider Cup. CHRISTMAS DINNER Heap on more wood! the wind is chill; But let it whistle as it will, We'll keep our Christmas merry still. — Sir Walter Scott, MENU Consomme with Chestnut Timbales and Turnip Balls. Fillets of Flounder, with Blanched Oysters, HoUandaise Sauce. Potato Balls. Hothouse Cucumbers Young Goose Roasted. ChantiUy Apple Sauce with Horseradish. Celery, with Brown Sauce. Tomato Punch. Roast Duck. Orange and Endive Salad. Plum Pudding, Brandy Sauce. Mince Pie. Caramel Ice Cream. Black Coffee. Cheese Bouch^es. COLONIAL TEA Colonial colors, buff and blue, or National colors, red, white and blue Blue china with yellow daffodils or Red and white tulips in a blue bowl. Oysters. (Scalloped or Creamed in cases or shells.) Cold Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. Celery-and-Hickory Nut Salad. Boston Baked Beans Salad, Garnish: Tomato Jelly and Celery. Individual Pumpkin Pies. Blueberry Sherbet (caimed berries). Maple Sugar Bonbons. Popcorn Balls. Salted Peanuts. MENUS FOR OCCASIONS 659 LAWN FETE Floral Decorations: Pink Sweet Peas and Mignonette. Shrimp and Cucumber Salad, Assorted Sandwiches. Rolls. Pineapple and Peach Salad, Pineapple Shell, Pistachio nuts as garnish. Mignonette Parfait. Iced Tea. EASTER DINNER. (YELLOW COLOR SCHEME) "Dafiodils, That come before the swallow dares, and takes The winds of March with beauty." MENU Cream of Spinach. Clear Green Turtle Soup. Pimolas. Brook Trout, Fried, Sauce Tartare. Rye Bread and Butter. Sandwiches. Potato Croquettes (Egg-shaped), Peas in Cream Sauce in Centre. Asparagus in Puff-paste Patties, Egg Yolks. Crown of Lamb, Mint Sauce. Bernhardt Potatoes. Banana Fritters, Orange Sauce. Broiled Squabs or Stall-fed Quail. Lettuce and Tomato, Sifted YoUc of Egg. French Dressing. Cream Chee se, Bar-le-Duc Currants (white). Pine apple and Orange Sherbet, Egg Shapes in Spun Sugar Nests. Assorted Cakes. Candied Mint Leaves. Candied Orange Peel. Black Coflfee. LENTEN LUNCHEON Floral Decorations: Valley Lilies and Violets. MENU Oyster Cocktails, Sprinkled with Chopped Parsley. Cream of Spinach. Broiled Baltimore Shad, Roe Sauce. 66o PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING LENTEN LUNCHEON. (CONTINUED) French Fried Potatoes, Cucumbers. Lobster Mayonnaise in Casseroles. Garnish: Figures cut from Poached white of egg. Cheese Straws. Olives. Black Coffee. WEDDING BREAKFAST. (JUNE) She's beautiful, and therefore to be wooed; She is a woman, therefore to be won. — King Henry VL Down on your knees, And thank Heaven, fasting, for a good man's love. — As You Like It. Floral Decorations: White Sweet Peas and Maidenhair Ferns. MENU Strawberries, au naturel. Halibut Palmettes. Hothouse Cucumbers. Peas in White Sauce. Rolls. Baked Fillets of Chicken-breast, Mushroom Sauce. Lettuce and Asparagus Tip Salad, Iced Mayonnaise. Fruit Ices in Spun Sugar Nests. Assorted Cakes. Bonbons. Coffee. THE END INDEX Acid, Acetic, 352 Citric, 352. Lactic, 352. Muriatic, 352. Phosphate, 352. Africans or OtheUos, 401. Albumen, Cookery of, 7. Albuminoids, 4-5. Almond Milk for Cumes, etc., 31. Almond Wafere, 415. Almonds, etc., Blanching of, 30. Chopped, 31. Salted, 532. Shredded and Pounded, 31. Anchovy Croustades, 336. Pur&, 33S. Anchovies, Plain, 92. Preparing for Use, 32. Stufied, 92. Apple Cake, German, 397. Charlotte, 526. Croquettes, 526. And Cress Salad, 323. Fritters, 500. Jelly, S44. Marmalade, 543. Pies, 439. Meringue, 453. Sauce, 522,523. Tapioca Pudding, 495. .\pples a la Manhattan, 526. Baked with Almonds, 523. Blushing with Orange Sauce, 524 Blushing Creole Style, 524. Duchess Style, 523. Fancy Baked, 525. Jellied, 525-526. Li Syrup, 523. To Serve, 517. With Rice, 524. Apricot Bombfe Glac6, 568 Apricots, Frozen, 570. Asparagus, Baked with Cheese, 379. Boiled, Mousseline Sauce, 280. en Branches, 279. Cookery of, etc., 278. With Egg Loaf, 60. i. la Indienne, 314. Patties, 279. Spanish Style, 280. Aspic Jelly, 247. 248, 249, 250, 251. B Baba with Fruit, 395. Bacon, 144. Bag and Tubes, Pastry or Forcing, 29. Baking-Powder and Formula for, 355-356. Baking-Powder Biscuits, 383. Bananas, Baked, 529. Compote of, 529. Fried, 529. With Rice, etc., 528. Bass Forcemeat, 8g. Bass Fried with Bacon 87. Bass, Sea, Buena Vista, 82 Batter, Fritter, 247. for Swedish Timbale Cases, 247. Batters and Doughs, Description of, 351-352- Bavarian Cream, Composition of, 476. Apricot, 478. Burnt Almond, 481. Chocolate, 477. Coffee, 477. Gateau St. Emilion, 480. Ginger, 477- Pineapple, 477-478. Pistachio, etc., 479. Raspberry, 479. Rice, 480. Vanilla, 476. 66x 662 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Beaa Salad, French, 324- Beans, Boston Baked, 144- Baked with Sausage, 143. Lima, 277. String and with Bacon, 277. Beating, 18. Beef i la Mode, 115. Braised, 115. Broth, Scotch, 602. Cakes, Broiled, 606. Cannelon of, 117. Chemical Composition, etc., iii. Corned, 118. Creamed Corned, au Gratin, 224. Diagram of a Side of, 112. Essence, 601. Fillet of, 241. Fillet of. Roasted, 116. FUlets of, with Marrow, 241. Forcemeat, Cutlets of, etc., 237. Juice, Broiled, 600. Roast, 114. BeefsteaJk, Chateaubriand Pierce, 121. Description and Names, 119. Flank, 122. Hamburg, 120. To Broil, 120. Beef Stew, 117. Hungarian, 121. Beef, Tenderloin Cutlets of, 114. Beef Tenderloin, Grenadins of, 242. With Juice, 606. Minions of, 242. Dumas, 242. With Chestnuts, 243. Noisettes of, 243. Paupiettes of, 243. Supr&ne of, 238. Beef Tea, 601-602 Beef Tongue, Boiled, 119. In Jelly, 252. Belgian Hare, 165, 168, 169. Beets, Cooking of, 276. Beverages, 39. Biscuit, Baking-Powder, 383. Finger, with Pistachio, 401. Glacfi, 572. Maryland Beaten, 378. Naples, 401. Oatmeal, 373. Tortoni, 575. Bisque of Lobster, 189. Bisque of Oyster, 189. Bisque, Mock, 190. Bisques, Derivation, etc., t88. Blackberry Sponge, 527. Blanching Almonds and Nuts, 3a Fresh Vegetables, 28. Macaroni, 304. Rice, 27. Blanc Mange, 471. Prunes, 475. Sea Moss Farine, 606. Boiling, 15. Bombs, Glacf, 570. Bomb6 Glac6, Combinations for, 571. Boning, 20. Boning Poultry and Birds, 152-153. Boston Cream Cakes, 418. Bouillon, 179. Bouquet, Kitchen, 22. Bow Knots, 420. Braising, 16. Bread, Baking, 366. Braids, 372. Brown, Boston, 381. Caraway Seed, 369. Care of, after Baking, 366. English Saffron Loaf, 370. Entire Wheat or Graham, 368. Five Hovir, 369. Flour, When to Use, 361. Flour, How to Distinguish, 361. French, 368. General Directions for, 363. Gluten, 370. Ingredients of, 360. Milk, 367. and Water, 367. Virginia Batter, 379. Proportions of Ingredients ia 363- Pulled, 374. Rye, 369. Sticks, 371. Sponge, 367. Swedish, 369. UtensUs for, 364. Virginia Spoon Com, 379. What is Good, 359. Breakfasts and Luncheons, ForiQtV 649. Brioche, 393. Coffee Rolls from, 393. St. Mark, 394. With Head, 394. INDEX 663 Broiling, 11. Broiling Pan, 11. To Bread for, 24. Brook Trout, Broiled, 87. In Paper Cases, 89. Broth, Chicken, Veal, etc., 602. Mutton, 602. Scotch Beef, 602. Standard Fish, 178. Standard Formula for, 178. Brownies, 412. Brussels Sprouts with Butter, 273. Buns, Bath, 396. Brioche, 394. Easter or Hot Cross, 373. Butter, Anchovy, 219. Black (Beurree Noir), 220 Clarified, 220. Green, 219. Lobster, 219. Maltre d'Hdtel, 219. Butters, Fancy, 339. Cabbage, Cookery of, 274. Stuffed, 274. Cake, Almond, 410. Angel, 400. Baking, 392. Blueberry Tea, 383. Boiled Sponge, 399. Breakfast Com, 379. Chocolate Sponge, 400. Cocoanut, 400. Cocoanut Pound, 413. Delicate, 410. Devil's Foiad, 407. Elegant, 408. Entire Wheat Fruit, 404. Formula for Sponge, 398. Fruit, Aunt Rdiecca, 404. Fruit, Mrs. Sewall, 405. Fruit, Dr. Langworthy, 409. Fruit (White), 403. German Apple, 397. German Coffee, 372-373. Golden, 410. Hartford Election, 396. Hickory Nut, 406. Ice Cream, 408, 409. Icings and Decorations, 42(2. V'sal Sponge, 399, Cake — ConUmted. Imperial, 405. Johnny, 378. Lady Baltimore, 407. Lemon, 408. Lincoln, 405. Loaf, 404. Lord Baltimore, 410. Made with Yeast, 391. Making, Materials for, 390. Preliminaries to, 388-389. Utensils for, 390. Mixing, Butter, 392. Sponge, 391. Mocha, 400. Moist Chocolate, 442. Newport, 407 Nut and Raisin, 406. Grange, 402. ans. Lining and Filling, 390- 391- Pineapple, 411. Pistachio, 411. Plain, 408. Pound, Bell's Prize, 403. Pound (by Weight and Measure), 403- Sponge, 398-399- With Water, 402. Spider Com, 380. St. Honors, 501. Stockbridge, 380. Sunshine, 399- Swedish Meringue, 402. Swedish Sponge, 403 Thanksgiving, 396. Wedding, 404. White, 406. Cakes, Berlin Pan, 397- Boston Cream, 453. Bread Crumb Griddle, 384. Buckwheat, 384. Cormneal and Rice, 384. Finger Biscuit with Pistachios, 401. Flannel, 385. French Cream, 418. German Coffee, 372-373. Kornlet Griddle, 385. Lady Fingers, 401. Lemon Queen, 411. Mocha, 401. Molasses Drop, 411. 664 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Cakes — ContUuied. Nut, 412. Othellos or Africans, 410. Regarding, 387-388. Rice Griddle, 386. Small Chocolate, 412. Calf's Head, Brains, etc., 139. Liver, Broiled, 137. Fried, :37. Loaf, 137. Canapes, Indian Style, 335. Lobster, 335. Candy, Cocoanut Cream, 590. Maple Cream, 589. Molasses, 589. Peanut Brittle, 589. Vanilla Sugar, 589. Candied Chestnuts (Marrons Glacfo), 592- Orange or Lemon Peel, 592. Candied Pansies, Mint Leaves etc., 593. Violets, 592. Canning, 537. Canned Strawberries, 544. Caramel for Flavoring, Lining, etc. 30- Caramel Sauce, $i\, 512 Caramels, 587-588. Chocolate, 587. Vanilla, 588. Carameled Nuts, 591. Carbohydrates, Where Found, 4. Carbonates, 354. Carbon Dioxide, 352, 353, 354, 362 Carrots, 285. Catsup, Grape, 549. Mushroom, 550. Tomato, 549. Cauliflower a U Huntington, 272. And Beet Salad, 324. Au Gratin in Cheese Shell, 272. Composition, 258. Cookery of, 272. Fried, 273. With Mushrooms, 273. Caviare Croustades, 337. In Swedish Cases, 336. With Eggs and Cucumbers, 336. Celery and Cheese au Gratin, 282. Celery and Cheese Salad, 325. Celery, Cress and Wahiut Salad, 3^6. Celery — Continued. English Walnut and Pimento Salad, 325. Creamed in Cheese Shell, 282. Jelly, 326. To Fringe, 32. With Sauce, 282. Cereab, Breakfast, 296. Cooking and Serving, 297. In Omelets, 299. Chafing Dish Cookery and Service, 307. Oysters for, 310. Creamed Dishes for, 310. Fuel for, 308. Charlottes, Cold, 480. Charlotte Russe, Banana Cantaloupe, 482. Burnt Almond, 481. Chestnut, 484. Chocolate, 482. Filling, 483, 571. Gateau St. Emilion, 480. Individual Maple, 483. Strawberry, 481. Salpicon of Fruit, 482. Chartreuse of Chestnuts, 484. Salmon, 93. Chateaubriand k la Pierce, 121. Chaudfroid, Chicken Supr&ne 256. Lamb Chops, 256. Sauce, 209. Sweetbread, 257. Tongue, with Jelly, 255. Chaudfroids, Description of, 255. Cheese Balls, 349. Bouchfe, 451. Cakes, 345. Cottage, 345. Composition of, etc., 343-344. Cream, 346. Croquettee, 349. Croutons and Bread, 347. Dish, Italiaji, 348. In Shells, 547. Moulded with Nuts, Neuf- chatel, 346. Rings, 348. And Celery Salad, 325. Sandwiches, 341. Service of, 344. Souffle, 347. Straws, 349. Timbales, 347. INDEX 665 Cherries with Crusts, sag. Chestnut Croquettes, 492. Custard, 465. Preserves, Vanilla, 540. StTiffing, 156. Chestnuts, Blanching, etc., 51. Chartreuse of, 484. Devilled, 315. _ Pur& of, with Cream, 486. Chicken k la Bonne Fenune, 164. And Sweetbread Croquettes, 227. Boiled Poulette Sauce 139- Boiled with Tomato Sauce, 164. Broiled with Sweet Potatoes, 161. Casserole of, 162. Chaudfroid of, 256. Cold Souf3£ of, 254. Cream Forcemeat, 232, 233. of, Glacfi, 254. Creamed with Potatoes and Pep- pers, 313. Creole, 162. Curry of, 165. Custard, 604. Cutlets, Parker House Style, 229. Cutlets with Salad, 251. Essence of, 211. Fillets, Plain, 245. In Aspic, 606. With Forcemeat, 245. Mushrooms, 246. Tongue, 24s. Forcemeat with Sauce, 233. Fricassee, 163. Fried in Batter, 246. Galantine of, 159. Legs as Cutlets, 236. Loaf, 136. Pressed, 136. Purfe for Garnish, 255. Rfechaufffe with Pilaf, 223. Salad in Rolls, 327. Saut£, 161-162. With Cauliflower, 162. SoufflS, 231. Supreme of, 239. Timbales, 235, 239- Victoria, 225. Chocolate Bombe with Fruit, 567. Cakes, Small, 412. Chestnuts, 586. Chocolate — Continued. Composition, etc., of, 45. Custard, Snow Eggs, 462. Custard Pudding, 464. Eclairs, 418. Mints, 586. Puffs, 419. Recipe for, as Drink, 47. Souffl6, 315. In Puddings, Use of, 456. Chou Paste, 417. Chowder, Clam, 192. Corn, 193. Fish, Boston Style, 191. Coney Island Style, 192. English Style, 192. Chowders, Derivation of Term, 191. Chutney, Apple, 549. Clam Broth, J02. Clams, Cod^tail of, 97, 333. Creamed, 102. Regarding, 96, 332. Relishes, 332. Claret Cup, 53. Punch, Hot, S3 Cocoa, Breakfast, 47. Composition, etc., 43. , Frapp6, 569. To Serve, i2S>46. Codfish Balls, 91. Boiled, 78. Boned and Baked, 84. Fried, 87. Picked Up, 91. Coffee, Boiled, 44. Bread, 600. Cake, 372, 373. Composition, etc, of, 43. Filtered, 45. Jelly, 468. Sauce, 365. Collagen, 5. Compote of Bananas, 529. Chestnuts, 531. Figs, S3Q. Stuffed Pears, 527. Confections, Fig and Nuts, 39°- Cookies, 416. Peanut, 413. Molasses Umdy, 416. Cooking, Elementary Processes in, 10. Utensils, Care of, 613-613. 666 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Consommfi, 179. Printanier, 178. Com, 283. Croquettes, 284.- Custard, 284. Fritters, 284. Meal Relish, 298. Cover, The, 643. Crabs, 104. a la Creole, 313. Soft Shelled, Broiled, 107. Fried, 107. Saut6, 107. Cranberry Jelly, $30. Cranberry Sauce, 530. Cream, Beating of, 28. Cream Cheese for Bouchtes, 431. Devonshire, 487. English, 461. Forcemeat, Chicken, 232. Hamburg, 474. Mock, 506. White Mountain, 427. Cream, Ice, Burnt Almond, 560. Caramel, 560. Chocolate, 559. CofEee, 561. Fig, 561. Ginger, 561. In Muskmelon, $22. Junket, 558. Neapolitan, SS4, 558 Peach, 559,566. Philadelphia, 553. Pineapple, 569. Pistachio, 560. Strawberry, 560. Tutti-Frutti, 562. Vanilla, 558. With Nuts, etc., s6i. Starch, 558. Cream Ices, Fruit, 559. Cream of Chicken Glac6, 254. Cream of Tartar, 352, 354, 355. Cream, Orange, 472. Roll, Vienna, 451. Sauce, Burnt, 512. Scones, 383. St. Honord, 462. Tapioca, 495. White Mountain, 427. Creamed Chicken, Peppers, etc., 313. Curried Shad Roe, 311. Croquette Mixture, to Shape, 24. Croquettes, Apple, 526. Cheese, 349. Chestnut, 492. Chicken and Sweetbread, 227. Egg or Easter, 60. Kentucky Corn, 284. Macaroni, Mushroom, etc., 228, Mushroom, 292. Potato, 265. Sweet, and Almond, 267. Pork, German Style, 143. Rice with Raspberries, 528. Rice, Plain and Savory, 302, 303- Sweet Rice, 304. Veal, 228. Croustades, Anchovy, 316. Bread, 26. Caviare, 337. Pastry, 26. pate de foie gras in, 337. Potato, 27. Rice, 27. Croutons, Bread and Cheese, 347. For Soup and Garnishing, 26. Orange, 450. Puff Paste, 198. Ham, 146. Crown Roast of Lamb, 126. Currantade, 52. Currant Jelly, 544. Currants, Bottled, 541. Spiced, 549. Curry of Duck, 314. Macaroni, 313. Custard, Beef Tea, 604. Boiled, 460 Chestnut, 465. Renvers6e, 465. Chicken, 604. Chocolate, 464. Chocolate, with Snow Eggs, 462 Cup, 463. English Cream, 461. Firm, 459. Fried, 465. Maple, 464. Pineapple, 465. Renvers^, 464. Savory, 651, 604; St. Honorfe Cream, 462. Cutting and Folding, 19. INDEX 667 D Dates with Cream, Stufied, 531. Daubing, 20. Devonshire Cream, 487. Digestion, Conditions for Stomach. 627. Gastric, 627. Intestinal, 626, 627. Physiology of, 625. Of Starch, 7, 626, 62g. Dinner, Announcement of, 639. Styles of Serving, 640. The Home, 650. Dinner Party, Invitation to, 638. Hour and Length of, 639. Dinners, Little, 649. Dough, Description of, 331. Kneading, 364. Shaping Bread, 366. Doughnuts, 420. Raised, 397. Yeast, 397. Duck, Curry of, 314. Salad, 331. Salmi of, 314. Ducks, Canvas Back, etc., 165. Domestic, Roasted, 158. Stufl&ng for, 158. Eclairs, Chocolate, 418. Queen, 418. Egg and Bread Crumb, 23, 24. Egg and Cress Salad, 324. Endive Salad, 325. And gruel, 604. Wine, 605. Tomato Jelly Salad, 326. Croquettes, 60. Loaf with Asparagus, 60. Nogg, SI, 603. Eggplant, 299. Egg Soufflfi, 603. Eggs k la Buckingham, 69. i la Farisienne, 67. Beating of, 30. Benedict, 63. Beauregard, 39. Boiled, 58. Composition, 35. Curious Ways of Cooking, 57. Eggs — Continued. Fried, 68. Hard Boiled, Bechamel, 39. With Noodles, etc, 62. How to Add to Soups, etc., 22. Keep as "Left Over," 37. Preserve, 36. Tell Whether Fresh, 36. Lowell style, 69. Moulded in Pimentos, 67. Poached, 62. Poached, Countess, 64. Creole Style, 63. French Style, 63. Hygienic Style, 63. In Consommfe, 64. In Anchovy Toast, 64. Sicilian Style, 63. Celery, 64. With Salmon, 64. Spinach, 64. Salpicon of, in Casseroles, 63. Scrambled, 68. With Anchovies, etc., 312. With Cheese, 312. With Tomatoes, 343, 68, 3x2. Shirred au Miroir, 66. In Tomatoes, 66. With Forcemeat, 67. Potato, 67. Snow, 474. Soft Boiled with Tomatoes, 39. Stuffed and Fried, 61. au Gratin, 60. For Picnics, 61. With Salad, 61. Sur Le Plat, 66. Vermicelli, 60. With Brown Butter, 68. Entries, Divisions of, 222. Items Concerning, 221. Utensils for Making, 222. Fanchonettes, Lemon, 441. Pineapple, 441. Pumpkin, 442. Fat, Care of, 14. For Frying, etc., 23. Tests for Hot, 13. Fats, Where Found, 4. 668 PRACTICAL CCX)KING AND SERVING Fermentation, Alcoholic, 362. Artifidal, 354- Spontaneous, 351- Figs, Stewed, s^o- With Jelly and Cream, 47i- Filling, Charlotte Russe, 571,483- Fig, 431- Lemon or Orange, 432. Pineapple, 431. Finnan Haddie Boiled, 90. Delmonico, 90. Fire, Building of, 2. For Cake Making, 389,392. Fish & la CrJme, 94. Baking of, 80. Boiling of, 78. Broiling of, 79. Cakes, 93. Chemical Composition, 73. Chops, 93. Cream Forcemeat, 233. Forcemeat, Shells of, 236. Fried, 80. In Court Bouillon, 79. In Curry Sauce, 94. In Season, 612. Preparation for Cooking, 76. Saut6, 80. Stuf&ng, 80, 84. Timbales, 236. To Bread for Frying, 24. To Determine Freslmess, 76, To Skin and Bone, 77. Trussing of, 80. Turbot, 94. Flageolet, 277. Flavoring Sweet Dishes, 456. Flirts, Aunt Sallie's, 497. Floating Island, 463. Flounder, Stuffed with Forcemeat, 88. Stuffed with Potato, 88. With Peas, 85. Fondant, 583. Maple, 587. Working and Using, 584, 585. Tutti-Frutti, 586. Food, Definition of, 1. In Asthma, 596. Chronic Rheumatism, S97 Diabetes, 595. Malaria, 598. Scurvy, 598. Season, 611. Food — Continued. In Tuberculosis, 598- Typhoid Fever, S97- Effect of Unsuitable, 628. Object in Cooking, 2. Office in Body, 618. Principles, The Five, 3. Forcemeat, Bass, 89, 233. Chicken Cream, 232. Sauce, 233. Composition and Use, 232. Cutlets of Beef, 237. Fillets of Chicken, etc., 245. Fish Cream, 233. For Mousse, 240. With Mushrooms, Game, 237. Quenelle, 233. Styles of Moulding, 235. To Mould and Cook, 234. Fowl, For Broiling, To Dress, 150, For Fricassee, To Dress, 131. Steamed, 164. To Clean and Draw, 149. Frapp£, Cantaloupe, 57°- Cocoa, 569. Coffee, 570. Cranberry, S70- Strawberry Souffl6, 577. Frappfe, 569. French Dressing, 320. Fritter Batter, 246, 499. Timbale cases, 247. Fritters, Apple, soa Com, 284. Golden Ball, 500. Parsnip, 283. Frog's Legs, 108. Fried, 109. Sautfi, no. And in Sauce, no. Frozen Desserts, Regarding, 531. Fniit Centrepiece, 522. Composition, etc., 514- Cup, 569. Flavors, To Bring Out, 466. In Season, 612. Preservation of, 534. Serving of Fresh, 516-322. Sherbets, 579. Time to Eat, 515. Frying, 12. Utensils for, 13. Fudge, 588. INDEX 669 Galantine of Chicken or Turkey, 159. Garnishes for Fowl, etc., 632. Game, 632. Soup, 194-198. Sweet Dishes, 457. Garnishing, 630. Gelatine, How to Use, 455. Proportion to Liquid, 466. German Crisps, 415,421. Rings, 415. Gingerbread, Fairy, 414. New York, 409. Rochester, 409. Ginger Nuts, English, 414. Ginger Snaps, 416. Glaze for Bread and Rolls, 32. Meat, etc., 212. Gluten in Wheat, 360. Gnocchi i. la Romaine, 348. au Gratin, 298. Golden Buck, 350. Goose, Young Domestic, is?- Grape Catsup, 549. Fruit, Service of, 514, 516, 518. Juice, 531. Preserves, 538. Sponge, 473. Wine, S3. Grouse, Broiled, 167. Roasted, 166. Gruel and Egg (Caudle), 604. Oatmeal, 600. Flour and Meal, 600. Gumbo Soup, 190. Grapefruit Cocktail, 334. H Haddock, etc.. Baked, 83. And Oysters, Matelote, 82. Halibut and Lobster Hollandaise, 311. Halibut, Baked, 83. Steaks and Oysters, 83. Turbans with Forcemeat, 86. Lobster, 90. Potato Balls, 85. Turbans, Tomato Sauce, 85. Halibut, Boiled, 81. Ham and Bacon, To Cure, 141. Egg Sandwiches, 340. Baked with Cider, 145. Boiled, 145. Ham — Continued. Broiled, 146. Cooked in Casserole, 145. Croutons, 146. Sandwiches, Hot, 314. Timbales, 253. Hare, Belgian, 168. Curry of, 165. In Casserole, 169. Hearts, Strawberry, 452. Heat Indicator, 34. Herbs, Fine Cooked, 21. Hermits, 417. Hominy Balls, 299. Hors d'CEuvres, 331. Horseradish Dressing, 330. With Apple Sauce, 220. Hospitality and Entertaining, 635. Ice a Cake, To, 429. Ice with Royal Icing, To, 430. Ices, Cream, 553. Ices, Individual, 555. Freezing and Moulding, 556. Serving, SS7, 579- Water, 555. Icing, Ahnond, 426. Boiled Chocolate, 428. Maple, 428. Pineapple. 428. Butter, 423. Caramel, 427. Chocolate with Syrup, 425- Cooked, 427 Fondant, 429. Ice Cream or Soft, 425. Marshmallow, 429. Materials for, 423. Ornamental, 425, 432. Piping with Ornamental, 430. Utensils for, 423. Water, 424. Chocolate, 424. White Mountain Cream, 427. Yellow, 424. Jam, Blackberry or Strawberry, 542 Rhubarb, 542. Jams, 536. 670 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Jelly, Aspic, 247-251- Asparagus Salad in, 321. Boned Quail in, 253. Timbales of Ham in, 253. Lobster in, 273. Tongue in, 252. Canned Peach, 470. Celery, 326. Coffee, 468. Cranberry, 530. Currant, etc., 544. Figs and Cream with, 471. Ivory, 470. Lemon 467. Orange, 468, With Orange Sections, 468. Rhubarb, 469. And Banana Cream, 469. Sauterae, 468. Sherry with Raisins, 470. Strawberry, 470. Tomato, 251. With Nut Salad, 326. Egg Salad, 326. Wine, 468. Jellies, Regarding, 466, 536. Double Moulding of, 467. Uses of Fruit and Wine, 467. Jellied and Pickled Feet, 146. Apples, 523-526. Jumble's, Soft, 416. Junket, Devonshire, 487. Egg with Cream, 607. Plain, 487. Plain Variations of, 487. With Wine, 607. K Komlet, Griddle Cakes, 385. Koumiss, 50. Kromeskjes 229. Lady Fingers, 401 Lady Locks, 450. Lamb Chops, Bussy, 130. Catalane, 130. Chaudfroid of, 256. Lamb, Crown Roast of, 126. Kidney Stew of, 131. Loin, Best End of, 244, Jloast, 128, Larding, 30. Leaven, 353. Leavened Bread, Early Use of, 358. Leavening Agents, Proportions, 356. Lemon Cake, 408. Custard Pie, 442. Fanchonettes, 441. Jelly, 467. Queens, 411. Sauce, 507, sop- Lemons, Preparing for Use, 31. Lemonade, 51. Irish Moss, 600. Pineapple, 52. Lobster, Broiled Live, 107 CanapSs, 335. Cocktail of, 334. Creamed, 107. Creole Style, 311. Curry of, 105. Cutlets, 106. Rushmore, 106. Salad, 331. Sandwiches, 340. Souffle, 231. Stuffed, Narragansett Pier, 105. Timbales, Jellied, 253. Lobsters, Boiling, etc., 103, 104. Regarding, 102. M Macaroni and Cheese «.u Gratin, 306. Baked, 306. Moulded, 305. And Tomatoes, 306. Mushrooms, 293. Curry of, 313. Italienne, 305. Kidneys, etc., 294. Milanesi, 304. Ragout, 237. Regarding, 304. With Welsh Rabbit, 306. Macedoine of Fruit and Nuts, 469. Mackerel, Broiled, 86. Salt, Broiled, 92. Marguerites, 421. Marinade, Cooked, 25. Uncooked, 26. Marketing, 609-610. Marmalade, Jams, Butters, 544 " Amber, 543. INDEX 671 Marmalade, Apple, etc., 543. Orange, 543. Pineapple, 542. Rhubarb, 542. Matelote of Haddock and Oysters, 82. Mayonnaise Dressing, 214. Measuring, 18. Melons, To Serve, 520,521. Menu, Balanced, Family of Six, 622. Referring to, 619-621. Christmas, 658. Colonial Tea, 658. Easter Dinner, 659. Home Dinner, 652. Lawn FSte, 659. Lenten Luncheon, 659. Representative Dinner, 648. Thanksgiving Dinner, 657. The Dinner, 647. Wedding Breakfast, 660. Meringue for Baked Alaska, 563. Meringue, Italian, 427. Pie and Pudding, 512. Swedish, 402. Meringues, 419. Mushroom, 420. With Strawberries, 420. Milk, Care of, 48, 610. Composition, etc., 47. Peptonized, 603-604. Sterilized and Pasteurized, 49. Milling Methods, 361. Mineral Matter, Where Found, 4. Mirepoix, 212. Mirlitons, 451. Mould, Lining with Lady Fingers, 457- Moulding in Aspic, 249. Double, 250. Mousse, 554, S7S- Or Mousseline, 240. Chestnut, 576. Forcemeat for, 240. Peach, etc., 576. Pineapple and Jelly, 576. Quail, 240. Muflais, Blueberry, 382. Commeal 381. Date, 382. English, 375. Entire Wheat, 381. General Rule for, 381. Twin Mountain, 382. Mushrooms, AgaricusCampe3tr&,289. 4 la Algonquin, 291. Aminita, 289. Boleti with Bacon, 293. Cepes a la Dumas, 294. Clavaria with Cheese, 293. Cooked under Glass, 292. Coprinus Comatus and Oysters, 293. Cocktail, 333. Croquettes, 292. Essence of, 211. Nutritive Value, etc., 288. Preparation to Cook, 289. PufiE Ball Stew, 291. Russulae h la Bordelaise, 294. Scalloped, 290. Stewed, 290. Stuffing for Pimentos, 295. Tomatoes, 294, 286. To Keep Temporarily, 290. With Calves' Brains, 292. Cauliflower, 273. Kidneys, 294. Macaroni, 293. Mutton, Boiled, 127. Chops, Broiled, 128. Marechale, 130. Casserole, 129. Pan Broiled, 129. Fried, 129. Composition, Cuts, etc., 124-125. Haricot, 226. Leg Roasted, 125. Boned and Stuffed, 126. Rfichauff6, 314. Creole, 224. With Macaroni, 226. Saddle of, 126. Stew, 127. Nitrogen, 617. Noodles, 195. N O Office of Food Principles, 618. Okra, Cooking of, 288. Gumbo Soup from Fresh, 190. Salad, 324. Saut6, Creole Style, 288. Olives, Service of, 334, 646 Stuffed, 334. 672 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Omelet, Breakfast Cereal, 299. Formula for Three Egg, 70. French, 70. Mrs. Grant's, 71. Orange, 315. Pineapple, 504. Puffy, 70. Rice, 72. Rum, SOS- Strawberry Jam, S04- Omelets, Regarding, 69. Starch Foundation, 71. Onion Juice, To Extract, 23. Souffle, 275. Onions, Cooking, 274. As Flavoring, 22. Stuffed, 274. Orangeade, 52. Orange Cream, 473. Croutons, 450. Curd, 450. Filling, 432. Jelly, 468. Marmalade, 543. Omelet, 315. Pie, 442. Sabayon Sauce, 507. Sauce, 507, SIX. Salad, 329,330. Oranges, Serving, 517-518. Ox-taUs, Braised, 123. Oyster Cocktails, 97, 333. Forcemeat Balls, 189. Pie, loo. Salad in Ice Bowl, 328. Souffle, 231. Soup, 188. Soup, Bisque, 189. Stew, 98, 310. Oysters, and Macaroni, 99. As Relishes, 332,333- "^roiled with Bacon, 100. With Celery, 98. Maltre d'Hdtel, etc., 100. Chafing Dish Cookery of, 310. Creamed, 98, 310. Fried, loi. In Batter, 101. Opening, 96. Scalloped, 100. Season of, etc., 95. With Cream, 310. Brown Sauce, 99. Palmettes, 241. Panada, Bread, 234. Flour, 234. Pancakes, Berlin, 397. Pancreatic Juice, 626. Parfait and Mousse Mixtures, 572, Angel, 572. Caramel, 573. Chocolate, S73- Coffee, 573. Ginger, 574. Grape Juice, 572. Maple, 574- Mignonette, 574. Simshine, 573. Parsnip Fritters, 285. Parsnips, Cookery of, 285. Partridge, Roasted, etc., 167. Paste, Chopped, 435. Chou, 417. Puff, Baking, 447. Puff, Making, 445. Past^, Classification of, 434. Cream, 43^-437- Digestion of, 433. Flaky, 436. Flour, To Distinguish, 361. Flour, When to Use, 361. Pastry Keeping, 435. Materials and Utensils for, 434. Plain, 43S. Potato, 437. Patty Shells, 449. Pea Timbales, 283. Peas, Cookery of, 283. Peach and Rice Meringue, 528. Peaches, Pyramid of, 527. Pears, Preserved with Ginger, S39- Pears, Stuffed, 527. Peppermints, 586. Pfeffer Nusse, 414. Pickle, Green Tomato Sweet, S47- French, 547. Indian, 546. Pears, Peaches, Sweet, etc., S4& Pickled Cauliflower, 547. Limes, Sweet, 548. Pickles, Concerning, 545. Cucumber, Sweet, 548. GUve Oil, 548. Sour, 545- INDEX 673 Pie, Apple, 43c). Ethenal, 439. Mother's, 439. Berry, 444. Cranberry, 440. Custard, 443. Date, 444. Fig, 443- Green Tomato, 440. Lemon Custard, 442. Making, 437. Mince, 444. Meringue, 453. Mock Cherry, 440. One Crust, 438. Orange, 442. Pineapple, 441. Prune, 440. Pumpkin, 442. Rhubarb, 443. Squash, 443. Pigeons, Casserole Style, 166. Stewed in Broth, 166. Pilaf, Turkish, 302. Pimentos, Eggs Moulded in, 67. Stuffed, 295. Marmakde, 542. Pineapple and Orange, Frozen, 519- Omelet, 504- Shredded, 519- Pineapples, Digestive Properties, 518. Planked Shad, etc., 86. Polenta, 299. Sauce for, 300. Popovers, 378. Pork Chops, 142 Composition Cuts, etc., 140-141. Croquettes, 143. Crown of, 142. Salt, Country Style, 144. In Boston Baked Beans, 144- Sausagc with Apple Sauce, 143. Sausage (Pork) with Beans, 143. Tenderloin, 142. Tenderloins, Stuffed, 147. Potato and Almond Croquettes, 267; Potato Cakes, 264. Croquettes and Boulettes, 265. Nests, 269. Roses, 264. Turnips and Carrot Balls, 266. Potatoes k la Maitre d'Hdtel, 266. Anna, 266, Baked, 263. Half Shell, 266. With Cheese, 269. Boiled, 263. Broiled, 268. Delmonico, 268. Delmonico Cream Roll, 268. Duchess, 264. Escalloped, 265. Franconia, 265. French Fried, 270. Hashed Brown, 269. Hashed White, 269. Imitation New, 262. Mashed, 264. Mashed Fish Service, 264, 270. Parisian, 267. Perfect, 262. Riced, 263. Potatoes, Saratoga, 268. Potatoes, Scalloped with Cheese, 269. Syracuse Hot Salt, 266. Warmed in Milk, 268. Sweet, Candied, 267. Sweet, Southern Style, 267. Poultry, etc.. Boning of, 152-153- Composition, 148. Filleting, 154. Trussing for Roasting, 153. Roasting, 154. Stuffing, 153. Season, 613. Preserves, Berry, 538. Citron or Watermelon, S40- Fig and Rhubarb, 542. General Rule for, 536. Grapes, 538. Quince and Sweet Apple, 539. Strawberry, 539-540. Strawbeny-Tomato, 541. Vanilla Chestnut, 540. Pudding, Apple and Broivn Bread. 493- Apple Tapioca, 495. Berry, Steamed, 492. Brown Betty, 489. Cabinet, 492. Carrot, 495. Castellane, 472. Cherry, 494. Cherry Souffld, 502, 674 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Pudding — Continued. Chocolate Custard, 464. Christmas Plum, 491. Cottage, 499. Cracker Raisin, 489. Cuban, 490. Cumberland, 493. Easter, 475. English, 494. Frozen, 555. Fruit, 494. Glac6, Plum, 562. Glac6, Rice, 577. Indian, Baked, 497. Indian Mock, 489. Indian ?uet, 497. Indian Tapioca, 497. Nesselrode, 562. Rebecca, 475. Rice, 476. Rice and Milk Baked, 496. Roman, 240. Sabayon, 578. Souffl6, SOI- Sponge Batter, 503- St. Davids, 490. Sweet Potato, 492. Tapioca Fruit, 496. Custard, 496. Thanksgiving, 489. Tipsy, 463. Tomato and Cheese, 287. Vitos, 491. Yorkshire, 115. Puddings, Cooking of Steamed, 488. Foundation of, 454. Queen of, 490. Puffs, Chocolate, 419. Commeal, 382. Grerman, 499. Pufiets, Wheat, 382. Punch, Frozen, 578. Fruit, 52. Grape, 54. Hot Claret, 53. Mint, 54. Tea, 54,578. Tomato, 579. Purfie, Banana, 511. Beans and Tomato, 185. Chicken, 183. Chestnut, 185. Jerusalem, Artichoke, 183. PurSe — Continued. Lentil, Split Pea, etc., 184. Potato, 184. Purees, Service of, etc., 182. I'yramid of Peaches, 527. Quail Mousseline, 240. Quails, Boned in Jelly, 253. Roasted, 167. Roasted in Grape Leaves, 168. Queens, Lemon, 411. Vienna, 413. Quenelles, 233. Rabbit, Cheese and Tomato, 350 Welsh, 350. Rabbits, Regarding, 309. Range, The Kitchen, 2. Raspberry Shrub, 53. Raspberries with Rice Croquettes, 528- Refrigerator, Care of, 614. Regularity in Feeding, 595. Rhubarb, Baked, 531. Marmalade, 542. Pie, 443. Preserved with Figs, 542. Rice, Boiled, 301. Cooking of, 300. Creole Style, 303. Croquettes, Plain, 303. Savory, 302. Sweet, 304. Hot, for Fruit Compotes, 303. Milanaise Fashion, 303. Regarding, 300. Savory, 301. With Bacon, 302. With Parsley, 303. Risotto, 301. Rissoles, 229. Roasting, 10. Roll, Vienna Cream, 451. Rolls, Coffee Brioche, 393. Crescents, 371. Parker House, 370. Rasped, 375. Salad or Luncheon, 371. Swedish, 372, 383. INDEX 675 Rosettes, Scandinavian, 500. Roux, 21. Rusks, Sponge, 607. Salad, Apple and Cress, 323. Asparagus, 321. Banana and Pimento, 330. Bird's Nest, 325. Cabbage, 322, 323. Cauliflower and Beet, 324. Celery, Apple and Pepper, 329. Celery, Apple and Pistachio, 329. Celery and Cheese, 325. Celery, Cress, etc., 326. Celery Jelly, 326. Celery and Orange, 329. Celery, Pimento and Nut, 325. Chicken in Salad Rolls, 327. College, 330. Cress and Egg, 324. Cucumber for Fish, 323. Duck, 331. Egg and Tomato Jelly, 326. Endive, 321. Endive and Egg, 325. French Bean, 324. Grape, Orange and Nut, 330. Lobster, 331. Making, 317-318. Materials, Draining, 319. Materials, Preparation, 319. New Spinach, 326. Okra, 324. Orange and Nut, 329. Oyster, in Ice Bowl, 328. Pineapple, Pimento, etc., 329. Plants, Cleansing, 318. Points in Making, 319. Potato, 321. Potato with Bacon, 322. Salmon, 328. Scallop, 328. Shad Roe and Cucumber, 328. Shrimp and Cucumber, 327. Sweetbread, Cucumber, etc., 327. Stuffed Tomato, 322. Stuffed Tiimip, 327. Tomato, 322. Tomato and Cucumber, 322. Tomato Jelly with Nuts, 326. Sally Lunn, 374. Salmon, Baked in Paper, 83. Baked with Mushrooms, 81. Chartreuse of, 93. Mousse, 89. Salad, 328. Salted, 92. Salted, Broiled, etc., 92. Salpicon, Meaning of, 19. Samp, Baltimore, with Cream Sauce, 298. Sandwiches, Cheese, 341. Cheese and Salted Nut, 341. Chicken, 340. Cottage Cheese and Cress, 341, Egg and Cress, 340. Ham and Egg, 340. Hot Ham, 346. Lobster, 340. Norwegian, 341. Preparation of, 338-339. Raw Beef, 341, 605. Russian, 341. Sardine, 339. Tongue and Rye Bread, 340. Sardine Canapfe, 336. Sardines and Spinach, 91. Sauce, AUemande, 202. Anchovy, 206. Asparagus, 203. Bechamel, 203. Bemaise, 214. Bread, 217. Brown, 207. Brown Tomato, 207. Caper, 206. Cauliflower, 204. Celery, 204. Chantilly Apple, etc., 220. Chaudfroid, 209. Cheese, 203, 205. Cherry, 218. Chili, 215, S48. Cooked for Salad, 216, 217. Colbert, 213. Cream, 202. Cucumber, 206, 213, 218. Currant Jelly, 208. Curry, 205. Drawn or Melted Butter, 206, Egg, 206. English Apple with Horseradish, 220. Espagnole, 210. 670 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Sauce — Continued. French, 214. German, 207. Giblet, 157. HoUandaise, 212. Horseradish, 206, 218. Lobster, 205, 213, 219. Mayonnaise, 214. Green, 215. Jelly, 216. Red, 216. Suggestions for, 199-209 White, 215. Mint, 218. Mousseline, 213. Mushroom, White, 203. Brown, 207. Nonpareil, 213. Olive, 208. Oyster, 205. Piqucinte, 20S. For Polenta, Rice, etc., 300 Prussian, 217. Soubise, 204. Supreme, 211. Suprtoie, Yellow, 224. Tartare, 216. Thick White, 202. Tomato, White, 204. Velouti, 201, 202, 203,211. Vileroi, 208. White, 202. Sauce, Sweet, Apple, 522,523- Apricot, 510, Banana, 506,571. Brandy, 506. Burnt Cream, 512. Caramel, 511, 512. Cherry, 510. Chocolate, 508, Claret, 565. Coffee, 508, 565. Creamy, 509. Currant, 565. Currant Jelly, 510. Cranberry, 530. Frothy, 510. For Frozen Pudding, 563. Hard, 511. Lemon, 507, 509. Maple, 565. Maraschino, 505. Sauce — Continued. Mock Cream, 506. Mousseline, 508. Orange, 507, 511. Orange Sabayon, 507. Pineapple, 512. Raspberry, 564, 565. Royal, 507. Rum, 512. Sabayon, 507>SI3- Strawberry, 510, 610. Tutti-Frutti, 506. Wine, 513. Yellow, 509. Sauces, Fine, 209. Fruit Juice, 510. Roux for, 201. Simple, 201. Sweet, Composition, 505. Synopsis of, 200, 201. Saut£ing, 12. Savarin, 305. Scallop Salad, 328. Scallops, 96. Deep Shell, 102. Fried, loi. Scones, Cream, 383. Service k la Russe, Detail of, 646. Serving au Gratin, 19. k la JardiniSre, 19. Shad or White Fish, Planked, 86. Roe, Broiled, 86. Creamed, 311. Croquettes, 88. Curried, 311. Maryland Style, 88. Salad, 328. Sherbet, Coffee, 88. Grape, 568. Orange, 568. Peach, 567. Preserved Fruit, 567. Sherbets, General Rule (Water Ices), S5S- Shortcake, Banana, 498. Strawberry, 498. Shrimp Salad, 327. Shrimps, I04. Smelts, Friea, 87. Soda, 351, 354. Soda, Bicarbonate of, 355. SoufBfi, Chicken, 231, 254. Cheese, 347. MDEX 677 Souffle, Cocoanut, 302. Coffee, SOI. Custard, so2- Lobster, 231. Macaroon, 502. Omelet, s<^3- Oyster, 231. Tongue, 254. Soup, Almond Milk, 603. White, 180. Chicken, 180. ConsommS, 179. Cream of Com, 187. Beans and Onions, 188. Mushroom, 187. Oyster, i88. Sorrel, 187. English Beef, 180. Gumbo, 190. Lettuce, 181. Ox-tail, 181. Sour Cherry, 193. Tomato, 181. Tomato and Pea, 182. Turtle, Clear Green, 182. Wine of Sago, 193. Kettle, The, 174. Making, Classification, etc., 170- 172. Stock, 172. Brown, 179. Bouillon, 179. Clearing of, 176. Fish, 178. Formula for Standard, 178. Kinds of, 176. Jellying of, 175. Materials Used in, 173. Proportion of Ingredients, 176. Time of Cooking, 174. Vegetable, 177. Soups, Formula for Cream, 185. Garnishes for, 194. Balls, Chicken Liver, 197. Balls, Egg, 195. Celery and Lettuce, 197. Custard Chicken, 196. Custard, Royal, 194. Custard, White, 194. Noodles, 195. pate a, Chou, 197. Pearl Barley, 196. Soups — CotUinmd. Puff pate Croutons, 198. Quenelles, 197. Tapioca, Macaroni, 195. Chestnut Timbale, 195. Other Timbale, 196. Vegetables, 196. Yolks of Eggs, 194. Thickening for, 171, 186. Spaghetti, Moulds Lined with, 235. Spinach Balls, 281. a la Bechamel, 281. Cookery of, etc., 280. With Crown of Eggs, 281. With Sardines, 281. Sponge in Bread Making, 367. BlackbeiTy, 527. Grape, 473. Grape juice, 473. 3i6. Strawberry, 473. Springerhe, 417. Squabs, Broiled, 166, 606. Squash, au Gratin, 271. Stuffed with Shrimp, Summer, 271. Starch, Cookery of, 6. Digestion of, 625, 626, 627. SolubiUty, etc., of, 5-6. Stew, Brunswick, 191. Stewing, 16. Stirring, 18. Strawberry Cannel on Glac6, S7i Charlotte Glacfe, 565. Charlotte Russe, 481. Cream, Ice, 560. Hearts, 452. Jam, S42- Jelly, 470. Preserves, S40- Sauce, 510,511. Shortcake, 498. Sponge, 473. Tartlets, 452. Vol-au-Vent, 452. Strawberries, Canned, 544. French Fashion, 520. Stuffing, Bread, 155, 156. Chestnut, 156. for Ducks, 158. Oyster, 155. Potato, 156. Potato and Walnut, 158. Poultry and Small Birds, 153. 678 PRACTICAL COOKING AND SERVING Stuffing — Continued. Prune and Walnut, 158. St. James, 157. Turkish, 156. Succotash, 284. Sugar, Boiling of, 581. Degree of Boiling, 582. Spun, SQL Sultana Roll, Claret Sauce, s^i. Sweetbread, Croquettes, 227. Cucumber, etc., Salad, 327. Cutlets, 228. Fried, 139. Larded and Baked, 129. Sweetbreads, Chaudfroid of, 257. Creamed, etc., 139. Newburg, 312. Syllabub, Wine, 483. Lemon, 485. Syrup for Ices, 583. Without a Gauge, 583. Table, Covers and Linens, 641. Decorations, 644. Lighting the, 645. Seating Guests at, 639. Cook's Tune, 33,34,35.36- Of Proportions, 37-38. Of Weights and Measures, 38. Tapioca Cream, 495. Pudding, Apple, 495. Custard, 496. With Fruit, 496. Tarts, Banbury, 450. Coffee, 4S3. Melba, 452, Tartlets, Strawberry, 452. Tea, Accompaniments of, 42 Ball, The, 42. Beef, 601. Composition of, 41. Concerning, 41. Flaxseed, 599. For Large Companies, 42. Iced, 42. Infusion, 41. Five O'clock, 634. Teas, 654,635. Terrapin, Concerning, 108. Mock, 225. Timbale Cases, Swedish, 247. Timbale, Cheese, 347. Chicken, 238, 239. Fish, 236. For Consommfi, 196. Pea, 283. Ham in JeUy, 253. Lobster in Jelly, 253. Toast, Cream, 377. Cream, with Cheese, 377. Milk, 377. Properly Made, 376. Tomato, 377. Tomato and Cheese Pudding, 387, Tomato and Cheese Rabbit, 350. Catsup, 549. Cocktail, 333. Custard, Canned, 287. Jelly, 251,326. Punch, 579. Salad, 322, 326. Salad Stuffed, 322. Tomatoes, Broiled, 286. Scalloped with Onions, 286. Stewed, 285. Stuffed Caroline, 286. Sicilienne, 286. With Mushrooms, 294. "Tossing," 19. Tripe, Broiled, 122. Curried, 122. Poulette Style, 123. To Pickle, 122. Turkey, Boned and Roasted, 159. Galantine, 159-160. R&haufi^, 224. Roast, 154. Stuffing, St. James, 157. Trussing, 153. Turkish, Pilaf, 302. Turnip Balls, 266, 276. Turnip, Charlotte, 275. Turnip Pur6e, 275. Turnips in Cream, 276. Turtle, Concerning, 108. Ragout, Green, 109. Scalloped, Green, 109. Veal, Composition, Cuts, etc., 132. Cutlets, 134. Fillet and Fricandeau, 133. Loaf, 136. Pot Pie, i3«. INDEX 679 Veal — Continued. Pressed, 136. Roasted, 133. Rolls k la Jardiniere, 244. Sweetbread, 138. Vegetables, Composition and Cook- ing, 258. Preparing Canned, 262. Salt in Boiling, 260. Season for, 611, 612. Served with Fish, 633. Served with Roast Beef, etc., 633- Steaming, 261. Venison, Cuts, etc., 167. Saddle, 167. Steak and Cutlets, 168. Vienna Cream Roll, 451. Vol-au-Vent, Shaping of, 448. Strawberry, 452. w Wafers, Almond, 415. Graham Commeal, 413. Waffles, and Rice, 384. Rich, 385- Sour Milk, 385. Water, Barley, 599. Cooking over Hot, 19. Currant and Tamarind, 599. Definition of, i. Expansion in Composition, 352. Pure Drinking, Essential, 40. Rice, 599. Simmering and Boiling, 8. Where Found, 4. Wheat Grain, Structure of, 360. Whey, Lemon, etc., 603. Whip, Royal Cream, 485. Wine, Diimer, Service of, 643 Wine, Grape, 33- Syllabub, 485. Yeast, 353-354. Bread, 358. Cake Made with, 391. In Bread Making, 362. Potato, 367. Cake, 362. Zwieback, 373. THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS GAKDEM CITY, a.Y.